Dove and the Changing Phases of Beauty

by Stefanie Christiane S. Rivera, AB-CAMS

De La Salle University – Science and Technology Complex

Abstract: Beauty is close to being equivalent to every woman in the human race.
Society has paid close attention to women’s aesthetics. Due to the pressure put
upon them, they are expected to look a particular way which appeals to them,
as influenced by culture, mass media, and popular culture. In this research,
we unravel the effects these factors have played throughout the course of
time in defining true beauty, especially in the Philippines.

I. 21st Century Standards of Beauty

The modern day Filipina is defined beautiful when she possesses long,
straight hair, pinkish-white skin, statuesque, and usually have dominant foreign
(Chinese, Spanish, Caucasian, among others) features. Women who are naturally
light-skinned are given high regard and often times, praised for their natural
beauty.

Skin color is only one factor which many Filipinos formed in their list of
beauty standards. Based on a research by Rondilla (2012) from the University of
California, Berkley, this particular factor [skin color] is a result of the colonial
mentality of giving more value to people born light-skinned. Her dissertation
entitled, Colonial Faces: Beauty and Skin Color Hierarchy in the Philippines and
the U.S.’ proved true the common notions Filipinos have on what is beautiful.

The reason behind this, as supported by Cedric Herring (from Rondilla’s

study), is due to skin color dynamics. He states that ‘colorism may arise from,
among other things, racist ideology, class based assumptions, the symbolism of
colors white and black, or a combination of these things.’ This was mostly seen
during the dark ages of American history (where the African-Americans were sold
as slaves and the Caucasians over ruled them) as well as, the Philippines’ colonial
past (the Spanish mestizos whose colonial powers dominated those of the native
Filipinos), or the British rule over East Asian nations like Singapore and Hong
Kong, and India, among others.

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Herring further emphasizes, ‘Knowledge of the complexity of colorism,

however, is essential if we are to advance our comprehension of the increasingly
diverse society in which we live in.

Another factor many women try to satisfy is their hair. In a study by Biana,
2011, from De La Salle University, she has uncovered the truths behind the deep
fascination of Filipina women when it come to their hair. Women aspire so much
to have long, silky straight hair because they believe this will make them truly
beautiful. Also in this research, Biana considered the perspective of bell hooks who
believes that women’s beauty standards are formed largely by popular culture and
amplified by mass media.

Similarly, both studies help us understand these issues on setting beauty

standards and having them present in the first place. Women are pressured so
much on their physical attributes because it is what they see every day, but they
have the choice not to be pressured by these ideals. bell hooks believes that it is
all boil down to appropriate representation. However, this is not the case, and I
quote,
‘I think that it’s possible to embrace the knowledge that there’s a direct link
between representations and choices we make in our lives that does not
make that link absolute…it’s frightening to me right now when people want
to behave as though certain images don’t mean anything…I feel that it’s
frightening that a mass media uses more certain kinds of representations
for specific impact and effect, we’re also being told that these images are
not really important. (hooks, 1997).

Evidently, most TVCs (Television Commercials), print and, now, online

advertisements in the Philippines are saturated with the same beauty standards
(straight hair, fair skin, etc.) present in celebrity brand ambassadors. In fact, it is
mostly from these that many Filipina women get inspiration on how they should be
perceived—beautiful.

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II. Women Empowerment

In this modern day and age, women are empowered more than ever.
Compared to other periods of history, the 21st century has opened a threshold for
women to express themselves freely, to be comfortable in their own skin, and to
be empowered individuals. That was the idea, and campaigns on feminism is
stronger than ever (including self-acceptance, leadership, and dismissing limiting
beauty standards).

However, that image is just beginning to take its shape. Many women,
regardless of age, are still hooked on the idea of being and staying beautiful. hooks
believes that pop culture, instead of promoting feminism, does the complete
opposite, ‘mass media is being used…to get women out of feminism and back into
some patriarchal mode of thinking.’

Gallagher, (1981), is also in support of this claim. When she analyzed the
portrayal of women in mass media, she discovered that ‘media treatment of women
can be described as narrow.’

“Much media advertising directed at women as consumers is

condescending in tone and manipulative in intention; as the ‘bait’ through
which products are advertised, women are exploited in terms of their
sexuality and physical appearance.” (Gallagher, 1981).

We take into consideration that Gallagher’s research was done in the 80s.
Nevertheless, times have not changed the way we think it did. It is possible that
the 21st century has become more open-minded about the classification beautiful
however, certain standards are still present in our modern day lives. Just take our
local celebrities, for example. For one, they all share similar physical traits, light
skin, thin physique, long, straight hair. The products they advertise which they
claim help boost their natural physical features emulate beauty in reality.

Beauty-enhancing products take advantage of this hunger to be youthful

and beautiful by ‘empowering’ and making women eager to grab hold of their
products. The problem is, empowerment may not be the appropriate definitive term

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since instead of making women build confidence in themselves, these companies

make them pay attention to the deficiencies in their physical features.

Boston Consulting Group, through the media and advertising publication,

AdvertisingAge, reveals,

“Marketers should empower these female consumers to delegate

to others (spouses, children, brands) so they can have more time to be who
they want to be—at home, at work and on their own. And marketers have
to use new ways to reach a population that rarely has time to sit down to
read or watch or enjoy something without simultaneously doing something
else.”

Beauty products have become a status symbol in their own right. Women
nowadays, are willing to invest in products which they trust and feel that are a
necessity to their daily lives, and the pass on the same virtues in spending to their
family members, friends, colleagues, among others.

III. Women’s Purchasing Power

Advertising firms and companies are working together to boost the
confidence level of many women in investing in their products. According to the
Boston Consulting Group, as mentioned by AdvertisingAge: White Pages,

“…women control $4.3 trillion of the $5.9 trillion in U.S. consumer spending,
or 73% of household spending. To reach this demographic, marketers need
not just to communicate that the goods and services they offer are practical
and convenient…”

Spending power among women have increased due to the increase in

employment. In a publication by Goldman, Sachs, & Co., (2009), ‘labor-force
participation rates for women in China and Vietnam are roughly 70%...Participation
rates have risen sharply in Pakistan (from a low of 11% in 1990), Brazil and Iran,
and have also climbed in Mexico, Philippines, Korea and Nigeria…’ which proved
that more women are capable of purchasing and investing on products, usually for
the household and personal effects.

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De La Salle University – Science and Technology Complex

In a research by Rubrico, as mentioned by Biana, personal care products

dominate mass media advertising in the Philippines. In 2007, hair care advertising
contributed to approximately P18 billion pesos. In 2009, the first quarter, hair
shampoo was the top advertisement spending category with P3.5 billion pesos.

On the other hand, Rondilla’s study uncovered several statistics on

investments on skin care products. As stated in her research,

“A 2003 report states that over 2 million units of skin lightening soap
are sold annually in the Philippines. Almost a year later, a survey conducted by
research firm, Synovate, revealed that among its respondents in the Asia-Pacific
region, the Philippines reported the highest rate of usage with 50 percent of the
respondents stating that they are currently using a skin-lightening product.”

Further into her studies, she also presented results of a survey

published in June 2005 by the L.A. Times. It was revealed that skin lightening
products ‘make approximately $10 million dollars in domestic sales per year.’ While
a 2006 survey reports, that 9 out of 10 Asian women in the U.S. are likely to invest
in skin care products.’

Such ethnic-specific markets have “grown 19 percent between 2001

and 2006. By the end of 2008, this market is expected to gross approximately $2.6
billion and by 2012 is expected to reach $3.3 billion.”

If companies are willing to invest in large amounts of money for

advertising, that is because they expect to double their profit in sales. We can just
imagine the extent of sales of these global brands. The way brands sell themselves
is making its target consumers’ develop the ‘need’ from the initial desire to ‘want’
a certain product, in this case, personal care and beauty-enhancing products.
Thus, increasing the demand for these particular products to accommodate the
growing number of consumers.

IV. Dove, A Revolutionary Beauty Bar

One beauty product, or a bathroom necessity which has set itself apart from
its competing brands, Dove Beauty Bar has made a mark in beauty in over 30
different countries around the world.

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De La Salle University – Science and Technology Complex

Dove was introduced as a soap that took care of your soft, delicate skin not
like other cleansing soaps which left skin dry and unappealing to touch; through
the years, Dove has developed itself as a status symbol and a household name
among consumers.

Fig. 1.1 Dove, a beauty bar brand by Unilever

Being a popular brand, Dove has appealed to many women all over the
world because of their purposive campaigns to promote diversity, confidence, and
empowerment among women of all sizes, color, and racial background. The
following is a timeline of Dove’s rise to fame in the industry:

1923 –John Dove’s brainchild idea was sent through a letter to the Milner
Group had enough funds to make the idea a reality, with the help of certain
connections.

1957 –Dove was known to the public and began selling and promoting the
brand. The first product Dove started supplying to retailers was their soap, for
those with dry and sensitive skin. Dove cleansing bar with its moisturizing
properties was originally developed to treat burn victims during the war.

Dove’s product line expanded over the years since 1957. It array of new
products include anti-perspirants, deodorants, body washes, lotions, beauty bars,
hair care, and facial care products. The brand name, Dove, is currently owned by
Unilever and is manufactured in Germany, Brazil, and Hammond in the USA, as
well as Southeast Asia.

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De La Salle University – Science and Technology Complex

Fig. 1.2 Dove’s Product line

2001 – Dove launched its first antiperspirant deodorant. Only Dove’s

deodorant has its “1/4 moisturizing cream formula that helps skin to recover itself
after every shave, leaving underarm skin feeling smoother than an ordinary
deodorant”

2002 – Dove launched ‘Campaign for Real Beauty’. Dove challenged a

core precept of the beauty industry: ‘Is the standard for female beauty that had
been set by the industry destructive to the very customers it seeks to serve?’

2004 – In January 2004, the Dove brand introduced its new ‘sensitive
deodorant’ variant that promised to ‘protect against odor while caring for the
sensitive underarm skin.’

2006 – The brand moved to the next phase of its ‘Campaign for Real
Beauty,’ targeting the next generation of women, teens and preteens. The goal
was to raise self-esteem and make a difference to the lives of 1 million young
people by 2008 through outreach programs and advertising.

‘Evolution,’ (Fig 1.3) Dove’s video ad campaign went viral on YouTube

reaching 16.9 million views.

Fig. 1.3 Evolution, 2006

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De La Salle University – Science and Technology Complex

2008 – Dove partnered with the hit American TV series, ‘Ugly Betty’ to help
promote their new idea and have it noticed by a vast audience.

2009 – Dove heightened their ‘Campaign for Real Beauty’ by having real
women endorse the brand, not supermodels, on different media platforms.

Fig. 1.4 Dove’s ‘Campaign for Real Beauty’ Ambassadors, 2009

2010s – Dove has continued make waves in the industry. The Dove
Damage Therapy and Dove Men+Care, Dove’s effort to branch into the male
market offering deodorants and body washes specifically designed for men’s skin,
were also launched.

In April 2015, Dove launched its ‘Choose Beautiful’ ad campaign (Fig. 1.

wherein 2 doors in different establishments all over the world, were labeled
beautiful and average to see which door women would choose to enter.

Fig. 1.5 Dove’s latest ad campaign video, ‘Choose Beautiful’

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This social experiment ignited conversation on social media, like most what
their other campaigns did as well. Although many applauded the effort to empower
women through their campaigns, there are also quite a number or criticisms on the
way Dove does their advertising.

According to a critique by Dye (2008), Dove’s ‘Campaign for Real Beauty’

promotes ‘fragmentation by appealing to women as individuals and by providing
arenas for women to compete with each other.’ Her school of thought opens the
hidden messages behind the products advertising efforts. She also emphasized
on the campaign being individualistic, thus developing narcissistic self-promotion
and image-construction. The forum which Dove promotes as a platform for
discussion is somehow limited to classifications such as ‘Mothers and Mentors,’
‘Girls only,’ and ‘Ageless Beauties,’ which limits the social spectrum and the
inclusion in the discussion.

Dove is highly regarded for its efforts to redefine the standards of ‘real
beauty’ among women. Through its different campaigns, the goal was the same—
to make women realize and recognize that they are beautiful, regardless of the
beauty standards. However, beautiful, may just be another adjective that we affix
which many feel, limit their worth as individuals.

V. Perceptions of Beauty

“Focusing on appearance is something that girls do naturally, rather

than something girls must learn to do.” (Weitz, 2001).

Through the course of this research, I have been exposed to various

areas where beauty standards play an integral part in our daily life. It was an
emotional rollercoaster ride indeed, because many women remain blinded by what
beautiful is and what beautiful should be. Dove’s ad campaign have proved that
women can be proud of their own skin, literally and metaphorically. Indeed, their
advocacy is unparalleled, however, we must remind ourselves often, that they are
selling products as well. It is the sympathetic feeling we get from Dove, and its
advertising firm, Ogilvy, which appeal to its millions of consumers.

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Our perceptions of beauty should not be blinded by what popular

culture and mass media dictate us.

“It’s really about being enlightened witnesses when we watch

representations, which means, we are able to be critically vigilant about
both what is being told to us and how we respond to what is being told,”
(hooks, 1997).

I admired the way she asserted that transformation can lead someone
out of oppression, much like the pressures on women to look beautiful, and that
self-worth is much more than the physical attributes we see.

“I really believe that a person who thinks critically, who, you know, may
be extraordinarily disadvantaged materially, can find ways to transform
their lives that can be deeply and profoundly meaningful…” (hooks, 1997).

While browsing articles online, I bumped into a conversation thread

of Huffingtonpost.com’s publication on Dove’s ad campaign, and I was surprised
with the perceptions people had about it. The following are screen captures of
users’ comments regarding the Dove campaign:

Fig. 5. 1 Screen capture comments of Robert S. (LongPeriod) and

Anthony B. (Anthony_Biafore) on Dove article by Huffingtonpost.com

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Fig. 5. 2 Screen capture

of comment by Michael
C. (Khnopff42) on Dove
article by
Huffingtonpost.com

Fig. 5. 3 Screen capture

of comment by Chumbo
Lex (Chumbolex) &
Wyatt L. (Wyatt_Lucas)
on Dove article by
Huffingtonpost.com

Upon reading these, I came to conclusion that people do value beauty, but
it does not have to be a limitation. My personal perceptions on beauty were
destroyed and then rebuilt with a new appreciation for what is genuinely
appropriate.

Beauty should not have standards. Women, and men, are so much more
than what meets the eye. Each one of us, is unique in our own way and no one
can dictate what we should or should not be, what we can or cannot be because
life is a matter of perspective and it is also with the right company where we can
truly develop the most beautiful version of ourselves.

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De La Salle University – Science and Technology Complex

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