XP Golf Ebook

From The Ground Up / How To Shoot In The 70's 1 OF 31
This Revolutionary, New In structural Method is So Simple, So Easy to Learn, So

Effective; People who use it and see the results are wondering "Why Hasn't Golf always
been taught this way?"
I've developed a golf system that is easy to understand, simple to learn, but most
importantly of all, is totally effective!
This book alone will not make you a pro. The fundamentals are sound enough and there
isn't a pro that doesn't do the things taught in this book, but to be a pro at anything,
you have to learn the craft and live the life. This book will teach you what every person
who breaks 80 on a regular basis (pros included) does; and presents it in a unique and
simple method. This method is just what the title says; "From the Ground Up."
I discovered this method just recently after many years of other instruction books,
giving lessons, receiving lessons, and many, man hours of trying just about everything
I read. Was I successful? Yes. But it took me years, and hours, and hours and years
and more years and hours, (you get the picture) before I finally came upon this method
where I can confidently fix and practice my swing. I, since, have been shooting near or
at and sometimes under par, on a somewhat consistent basis.
I am probably more qualified than most pros at being knowledgeable about

improvement because I went from a player who couldn't break 100 for the first 5 years
I played, to a 2 to 4 handicap. (Probably lower now; I had a lot of good numbers at the
end of this year.) I've won local tournaments, a club championship, and play a lot with
pros and players who I once never thought I could ever come close to keeping up with.
SO I CAN RELATE!! And over the years of helping other golfers (Please-On the range
only!) and through my own trials and tribulations, I have "discovered" the 3 essential
technical elements, and some non-technical elements, that once are incorporated into
one's game, yield fantastic results.
This book will show you how to learn these elements. MY METHOD DOES NOT START
WITH THE GRIP! I believe the bane of all other golfing methods is to put the club in the
golfer’s hands first. That is not to say that the grip is not important, but the way to
learn something is through the proper sequence and proper gradient! My Gosh; it's like
giving a 10 year old a Smith & Wesson 38 because he said he wanted to become a
policeman. OK, so it's not that dramatic; but it is just as out of order. Trying to go to
step 5 in a procedure before doing steps 1, 2, 3, and 4, just doesn't work. The poor
soul will become confused, and start reeling. Then he will further complicate matters by
doing step 3, then step 7, then step 2, with of course, disastrous results. The funny
thing is, is that there are many methods which contain all the information you'd ever
need to develop a good game, but even the best ones I've seen, or used, have you
terribly confused, with no good reference points to correct what is going wrong. Why?
Because they have you looking at step 5 when you should be looking at step 2, or
you're working on step 3 before you can accomplish step 1 and 2. Etc. etc…
The great thing about my method is not only do you learn this golf swing thing in its
proper sequence, but when you're having problems you can go back to step 1, AND IT
IS INDEED STEP 1!!! When you go back to step 1 in other methods it is really step 5 (or
some other step) of the proper sequence, and we can start the confusion all over again!
With my method, because it is in the proper sequence and gradient, it is simplicity itself
to recognize just where you're going wrong when things head south, and remedy that
thing.
But don't, because of all this talk about sequences and gradients, think that my method
is complex. It actually contains only the 3 aforementioned elements to learn! The rest
of the book is just discussion on incorporating these elements, achieving a good short
game, what I've seen in my game, pros games, 70 shooters, 80 and above shooters,
and outlook on the game.
The goal here is to shoot in the 70's at least on some sort of regular basis, no matter
what you are shooting presently! I confess that I have those days that I shoot over 80.
But those days when I play at par or better more than make up for those days that you
only thought, or dreamed (in a nightmare) you shoot over 80. But those days when I
play at par or better more than make up for those days that you only thought, or
dreamed (in a nightmare) you could never have again on the golf course. Yes, you'll
still have them. So do pros! You just never see them on TV because they didn't qualify!
But ah, such is the "beauty" of the game.
This book is dedicated to those 18 sacred holes in the ground, and dedicated to getting
them filled in 79 or less turns! You'll learn how to accomplish this from the ground up.
This system will not take years and years to accomplish, but can be practiced effectively
with about 10-20 minutes a day, mostly indoors, at least to start. Within weeks your
game can completely turn around to a level you've only dreamed of. You'll find you
have a lot more time to enjoy your game, your good shots, your round, and hopefully
other areas of your life. Golf is THE sport of all sports!!
Ok, I lied! But remember the title, “From The Ground Up”. I am going to start with the
grip, but not the one you hold the club with. We're going to start with your grip on the
world. (Pretty Heavy Huh?) Joking aside, this is the first thing you need to learn about;
your feet and what your lower body needs to accomplish. Every, and I mean every
player I've seen who can break 80 has this element in their game to some sort of
efficient degree. The touring pro has this element down to the degree that he can and
does repeat it almost precisely hundreds of times in a row. He has learned this and
owns it. To him it's like breathing. He, at times may change his footwork, or stance, but
these are just adjustments. High handicappers do not have a stable, repeatable weight
shift, or foot and legwork! None, Zip, Zilch! Observe this for yourself. This is very
important. I know it is true, but you yourself have to observe it, to really know if it is
true to you.
Watch the pros lower body next time you are watching a tournament on TV, not the
club or the ball. This will help with the element you are about to learn, and will give you
reality on the matter.
So, I will repeat myself. High handicappers don't have repeatable lower body work. Well,
many repeat the wrong lower body work. Ah, the classic left leg in the air, half falling
over, and arm flailing finish. Don't laugh too hard; unless you shoot 70's you have this
problem to some degree. Let me repeat this datum to you. Every golfer who shoots
under 80 regularly has decent or good foot, leg, hips, lower body action. Every golfer
who doesn't have this shoots 85- to 100. Amazingly enough, this is not very difficult to
learn! Check this out yourself after you have learned what and how good lower body
work is achieved. Most
12-20 handicaps have learned to do something, which kind of resembles a golf swing,
on a regular basis, and can usually get up and down in 3, and can two-putt from 20 feet,
and in. Only folks with pathetic short games who have this first element down, shoot
80's and 90's more often than 70's, but they at least can and do shoot 70's once in a
while.
By the way, we will deal with the short game simply and effectively later. This part is
extremely important in scoring low, and is really simple to achieve at least a decent
efficiency at. Personally, I love that part of the game. That's where the real pressure
shots; and win or lose situations occur. A good short game can just demoralize your
opponents, and make up for a lot of mistakes on those days when things aren't going
particularly well. We will have more on that later.
So, let’s get to Element #1! You will be happy to hear that it will take less time to learn
this element than it took for you to read this far. Your golf swing depends entirely on
how well you can properly execute this element consistently!
Before we go on to the Drills I'd like to "warn" you of a couple of things. The drills are
there to do, not just to read about. It is possible that if you read past Element #1
without doing the Drill #1, you could get confused about what you are reading. My
advice is to do the Drills as you get to them a few times, until the first three drills are
understood, and then practice them in earnest one at a time. These Drills and Elements
are similarly numbered (i.e., Drill #1 is for Element #1. Drill #2 is for Element #2 and
so on).
You will need to get a photo full sequence of a pros swing. Pretty much anyone's will do.
You can get these from just about any golf magazine. I urge you to watch the pro's on
TV and look at full swing sequences in golf magazines. The drills themselves do not
copy full swing sequences, but are drills to learn certain Elements in the full swing (i.e.,
When you practice Drill #1, you are just practicing what the feet, legs, and hips do in a
full swing, you are not practicing the full swing yet). Thus, focus on what happens
below the waistline. When view the swing sequence, use it as a reference.
So having said that LETS GO!!
Element #1 consists of turning the hips, thus shifting your weight to the
right side. (Lefties reverse all the data to fit their needs. I will not
repeat this again.)
Here's the Setup and Drill to learn how:
• Setup (A) Stand straight up with your hands to your sides, feet about
shoulder width, outsides of feet directly below hands.
• Setup (B) Clasp your hands together directly in front of you and let
your arms hang down.
• Setup (C) Lower your hands directly downward, toward the spot on
the ground that they are directly above. You'll do this mostly with a
knee bend. Lower the hands and shoulder unit a few inches until you
feel perfectly balanced, in an athletic position. Don't try to achieve this
position by just bending over. You lower yourself into this position and
the necessary bend will naturally occur.
Now look in a mirror. Do you look like a golf pro or what? Some added notes on this.
Not only is this a workable way to achieve the proper golf stance, but it works with all
types of bodies. For instance; when I hang my arms (step B), my hands hang out
further than most people because my ribcage doesn't contour in, as much as normal,
therefore I play with my hands a bit higher than most good players. Another person
may feel better balanced by lowering 6 inches instead of the 4 which I feel comfortable
with. This setup method lets your body and feel dictate the proper setup for you.
Now that you look like a touring pro, and you will, if you followed Setup A, B, and C,
lets begin with the TURN. (If you don't look like a touring pro, read over Setup: A, B,
and C, and be sure you understand it. Always check the words (be sure you didn't pass
a word you don't know the meaning of) to be sure you don't miss the concept or
instruction.)
From the setup position:

• (A) Keep your head level and still.
• (B) Turn your hips to the right until your belt buckle is about 45
degrees from where it began. Keep your left foot entirely on the ground.
(Get a grip and keep it.) Your left knee should move slightly outward
and to the right, not so far that it caves in. (Look at any pro swing photo
for this.) You will feel the pressure build between the legs and your
weight will naturally shift to the inside of the right foot and leg. Keep
the right knee where it started. (It will roll a 1/2 inch or so, but keep it
stable as possible.) This insures that the weight does not get past, or to
the right of your right foot, which would result in loss of control and
balance. (Boy do I know about that one!) You will feel tension, or
pressure in both upper legs and on the inside of your right foot. This is
your engine! That is what the pros do, and you will never shoot in the
70's without having this Element to some degree in your golf swing.
• (C) Now slowly but powerfully push over to the left side; your belt
buckle should end up facing your target. In this drill keep your hands in
front of your belt buckle at all times. A good check here is to turn until
your hands are over your right toe, then on the move to the left, they
end up at your target, still in front of your belt buckle. Your hands are
reactive in this drill. Your hips and legs are active. Remember to keep
the head still throughout the whole drill.
• (D) Repeat as needed. Own this. If you can apply this you are nine
tenths of the way toward a very workable golf swing.
That's it; Element #1 (THE BIG ONE). Yes, it is that simple and that easy. When you
watch the pros you'll see that they don't move this part of their body with that much
speed. Repeat this drill until you have it! The more you repeat it, the more ingrained it
becomes. Ten minutes a day is not a lot of time, so spend it on this drill! "Wait a
minute!" you say. "You're telling me that's the secret to good golf?" Well.... Yes, this,
and learning this before you put the rest of your swing together, and I'll prove it in
Element #3. This seemingly innocent and not particularly fast nor overly powerful move
does 2 essential things. It anchors you to something; it gives you something to hit
against; and it is the torque of the golf swing. You will see how much club speed occurs
when you later add the upper gears.
This is simply an extension of Element #1. In fact it occurs as a result of

Element #1 in the golf swing or it can trigger Element #1. Actually
Element #3 can trigger Element #2 or #1, and so on; but the way to
learn this golf swing thing is to learn Element #1 first, on which all the
other Elements depend, then #2, and #3. I'll take some time to explain
here. The 3 elements occur simultaneously in some swings, and in
varying order in other swings. In other words, some golfers start their
swings with a wrist cock, or the hands. Some start with a shoulder turn
and then a wrist cock. Some start with a hip and shoulder turn and the
wrists come much later. I will discuss all of this later in depth. The
important thing at this stage is to understand and execute the three

Elements.
Ok, I'd like you to do Drill #1 (Element #1). Observe what happened to
your shoulders during this drill. Well whatdyaknow!, they started
turning too. Ah, just as it should be! And so it goes. So Drill #2 (Element
#2) is really easy.
• (A) Do Setup and Drill #1 (The Lower Body Turn) steps A and B.
• (B) Now, just hold what you got and keep the shoulders turning. Turn
them as far as you can and keep your balance. If you are relatively
flexible you will be able to turn them 90 degrees, or directly away from,
(your back toward), the target. Keep your hands directly in the middle
of your chest at all times during this drill. Your arms and hands should
be almost or about shoulder high at the end of your shoulder turn.
• (C) Just as in Drill #1, slowly, but powerfully push off and "fire" down,
and toward the target. You will end up with your belt facing the target
and your hands out toward the target about head high. Keep your head
where it started in this drill also, it will help you hit through the ball
later! And that is Element #2.
Practice Drill #1 alone and add Drill #2. Repeat. Repeat. And this was the tough part!
We're 2/3 of the way there. (Very important note: We are not trying to achieve "club
head speed" itself at this point, we are building the elements that support and enable
club head speed! We will easily develop club head speed in Element #3. In fact these
first two drills can also be done with the hands behind the back. In fact I highly
recommend you do them that way also!!)
Ok! You can now go get a club now! Big of me, huh? Now you will see for yourself how
easy it really is to put together a swing that works when you learn the proper sequence
of the Elements in the golf swing. At this point I'm going to continue on to Element #3.
Only continue on if you are sure you have a decent grip (on the club!). I mean really
sure, if not see the section at the end of this chapter "About the golf grip." Now
assuming you have done well on Drills #1 and #2, and have a good workable grip, here
is Element #3.
Now that you have your engine (Element #1), and your transmission
(Element #2), about the only thing you can do wrong is with your arms
and hands. And the arms are the key part of Element #3. The rule of
Element #3 is: There must be enough room between your arms and your
body to swing the club freely! When this is not done we get a blocked or
somewhat feeble or awkward shot. Basically it's just this: your left arm
cannot come across your chest and leave enough room to swing! If your
left elbow move in toward your sternum (middle chest), you've lost the
room you need to freely swing the club. This is nothing new, but is
rarely explained in this manner. It is also often done improperly, and
not stressed nearly enough, and is extremely crucial. That is why it is

Element #3.
This Element is somewhat safeguarded in Drill #2 "hands remain in

front of the middle of the chest at all times" so now all we have to do is
swing the arms up with the shoulders, and not across the body. So here
is the Drill for Element #3.
• (A) With a club in your hand, do Drill #2 (#1 & #2). I suggest you
repeat this until you feel comfortable doing this with the club. Use 7 or 8
iron to start, still working on feet, legs, hips, shoulders, not club head
speed.
• (B) Now just go up with your arms a couple of inches (not full swing),
cock wrists very slightly. Now just as in Drills #1 and #2 powerfully, but
with control and balance "fire" everything down and back to the left.
Whoosh! My goodness we now have a real golf swing. Now you can see
and feel the "swing", or "sling", or "whip" of the golf swing. • Keep
adding a bit more arms and wrist until you have a full swing. And that is
it! You can now allow the head to come up after impact position, and
should end up facing the target, and in balance. Nine times out of 10 the
ball will end up where your chest ends up pointing. Look at pictures of
pros. If you've gotten all the Elements in, you will finish like they do,
with all the weight on the left foot, in balance and everything facing the
target.
Note: When I "fire" at the ball and out through to the target, I like to feel like
everything starts together. But this, for me, is best accomplished when I initiate, or at
least think of "firing my right shoulder" first. More on various swing thoughts and ideas
on how to be synchronized later.
The better you have Elements #1 and #2 the easier the club head speed, or the "sling"
is to achieve. And the more consistent the speed, with release and amazingly enough,
control and straight shots. Isn’t life grand?
Most of the "safeguards” in Drills #1 and #2 are built-in or already mentioned. The only
thing here is that if you're having difficulties with balance or movement, go over the
Drills again. Be sure that the turns are turns and not leans. Employ the tight "turn in a
barrel" move. This is good for stability and power.
Here are a couple of safeguards and check-points for Element #3. Be sure you maintain
a straight, but not stiff left arm. If your arm is too flexible in the golf swing and bends
too much, it is just another part that you will have to time as it straightens out in the
downswing. There is much better consistency, and power with a straight or relatively
straight left arm. Again, check out the pros and better golfers on this matter.
A way to check and see if you have enough room to hit (Element #3; is at the top of
your swing; just swing the arms down, keeping the Elements #1 and #2 position where
it is. If your right elbow hits your right hip, you've "crossed over" and haven't left
enough room to swing freely. If your right elbow "clears your right hip" you have left
enough room to hit. Clearing your right hip (turning it before the arms swing down) so
that you don't block a shot to me is a myth. The problem occurred earlier when you
didn't leave enough room in the first place. Not "clearing your hips" is a symptom, not a
cause.
There is absolutely nothing I care to or can add to the subject of the golf grip. I just
cannot improve on what is contained in any golf book or magazine. Hogan, Nicklaus,
Toski, Kite, Snead, Watson, Norman, your club pro, or any low handicap golfer can help
you if you are having trouble with your grip. I will however briefly cover the subject.
Overlapping, interlocking, ten finger; strong, weak, and neutral; if it is comfortable and
works it is right. There are three mistakes that I see over and over again which plague
the high handicapper. These are so often repeated and used, it's really hard to believe.
Two of these are grip mistakes; the third (and most important one) is that Element #1
is missing. Well we've covered that one.
Oh this little beauty is hard to spot unless one is aware that it

might exist. You see a guy on the range and his swing isn't the
worse, but he hits shot after horrible shot, anywhere but where
he wants or how he wants. Oh, you check his grip. It looks OK.
Then you check his swing, his shoulder turn, plane, and tempo.
You might give him suggestions which normally might be of some
use, but you're just whistling Dixie. This fiend is unseen unless
look for! The guy doesn't even consider it.
The pro said his grip was fine, it looks fine. Oh, but after years of
experience, it is the first thing I look for when the problems
aren't obvious and the first thing I tell anyone about the grip. And
this unseen demon is so basic, so simple it is truly amazing.
The club is not fully in the left hand! The butt end of the grip is a
full 1/4 to 1/2 inch from being in the hand and thusly in any kind
of control. The handle of the club MUST be beyond the pad, or the
heal of the left hand. It can be a 1`/2 inch, even a 1/16th of an
inch past, but the club must be fully in the hands. Amazing is it
not, that this is so overlooked. I bet 70% of the golfers I see who
are not under single digits make or have made this elementary
and devastatingly deadly mistake. It is really mind boggling,
because many of these players spend a good deal of time at golf.
So don't be one of those people any more or don't become one. It
is a mistake for which there is no cure, unless you stop making it.
The right thumb down and "behind" (to the right) of the shaft.
This one is easy to spot. You just can't hit a golf ball consistently,
or with any power with your right thumb. Your hands and wrists
will not operate together or in the proper manner with this

common grip error.
Personally I think it better to get a swing, know your swing, and

then adjust and experiment with your grip to get it to fit your
swing. Some people are “handsier” and will grip more in the
fingers, others might play the ball "back" in their stance and
require a stronger (more to the right) grip, and so on.
Learn a good neutral grip (hands straight out with the back of the
left hand facing target) and adjust from there if needed. So here's
the basic way to achieve a good neutral grip.
• 1. Hold the club out in your right hand so the leading edge
(bottom line) of the club is facing the target (straight out, where
you will be aiming).
• 2. With your left hand facing the target, place the club along the
base of the fingers, a bit lower in the pinkie, and a bit higher in
the index. The club should comfortably rest above the heel pad of
your hand.
• 3. Wrap your fingers around the club with your thumb resting
on the top of the grip slightly to the right of center. How far over
to the right you rest your thumb is variable, but for now just a bit
to the right will do fine.
• 4. The best way I know to check this out to see if it has been
properly done is to lift your thumb and your pinkie off the club. If
the leading edge is still facing the target and the back of your
hand is still facing the target and the grip is held in place with the
heel pad of your hand you have a perfect left hand grip.
• 5. Place your pinkie and thumb back on the club.
• 6. With the palm of your right hand facing the target, place the
center of the heel of your hand (the area right in the middle of
your thumb pad and pinkie pad) directly onto your left thumb.
Now depending on whether you are using an overlapping,
interlocking, or even ten finger grip (which I recommend as a
very good alternative) (I even use it myself at times) grip the
club with the rest of your fingers and thumb.
o (A) Interlocking - Right pinkie goes under left index finger.

o (B) Overlapping (most common) - Right pinkie goes between
and on top left index finger and middle finger.
o (C) Ten finger - Right pinkie butts up against left index finger
and is fully on the grip.
• 7. The way to check the right hand is the same way as checking
the left hand. Lift the pinkie and thumb of the right hand off the
club (holding the club with the right hand only). If the club is still
facing the target and your palm is still facing the target and you
are controlling the club you've got it. Note: the club handle will
rest more in the middle of the heel pad than the left hand which
will have the club above (toward the fingers) the heel pad. If you
got this you have a perfect grip!
NOTE: YOUR GRIP SHOULD ONLY BE TIGHT ENOUGH TO MAINTAIN TOTAL CONTROL.
Grip loosely! Too tight a grip creates tightness in the hands and fore-arms. This is not
good. It robs fluidity and distance from your game.
Also at the top of your back swing (practice and check this in Drill #3) be sure you
don't "change" your grip, especially watch that the left pinkie doesn't loosen, to attempt
to enhance wrist cock. Keep your left hand grip loose but solidly on the club just as you
started with. Well enough on the grip. Read other sources on this matter and ask your
pro to check it out if you have any questions. This is tough to observe on TV.
Well that's really it for the instruction part of the swing! The rest of this book concerns itself
with how to put these three Elements together, and some of the different ways they are put
together. Remember a person can be wristy, armsy, have an upright swing plane, a shallow
swing plane, can start the swing with a wrist cock, or a shoulder turn, or a "kick" of the knees;
can be relatively fast or slow; cock their wrists early, middle, late, barely at all. These are
different styles of swinging, all used by different players. But even with these different styles
all good players have the 3 Elements in common! So what we're going to do now is experiment
and discuss which style or styles fits you. I have several different swing styles I can use, and
as long as the 3 Elements are in, they all work. Some days a certain style, lets say wristy with
a beginning wrist cock will "trigger" in the elements better for me that day than maybe say a
shoulder turn start with an upright swing plane, which may work better another day. The
important thing is to execute the Elements no matter which style you use. I'll now turn to the
matter of putting these Elements together in a golf swing. At any and all points, keep drilling
and checking Elements #1, #2, and #2. This will assure your success!!!!
This chapter is all about how to incorporate the Elements. You might ask, "Well why don't you
just do Drills #1, #2, and #3 in order?" Well you could, but I find that my timing and feel is
better if I do the Elements more or less simultaneously. (Most good players I have seen do,
although someone like Nancy Lopez has 4 distinct moves. Does she get the Elements in? You
bet she does!) Remember the drills are to teach you in a step by step progression what those
things (Elements) are that need to be present in an effective golf swing. The Drills are also a
fail-safe checkpoint system so that when things aren't working as well as they should, well you
can recognize what is amiss and correct it, by reviewing and doing the Drills.
By the way, I would suggest you finish reading this entire section before trying a specific style.
Start the swing; please; today; now for Pete's, or whoever's sake! We all at one time or
another have frozen to some degree over a ball. Why? One reason and one reason only!
Uncertainty. Now many things can cause this. That the ball is small, round, white, and
immobile is actually (many feel) responsible for a hypnotic fear in golfers. Imagine a
golf ball being at cause enough to control a being. I just can't give that much credit to a
golf ball, no matter how much I revere the sphere which we play this glorious game
with.
None-the-less, many weird things can occur between the setup procedure and the
swing; at which point it may cease to be a swing anymore. (By the way we'll get to the
setup and routine later. You've already learned it pretty much in Drill #1.)
I believe about 95% of the uncertainty at address can be eliminated by having a

specific swing trigger or thought. My two favorites are the forward press (An action
where you press the hands slightly toward the target.); and the right hip turn to start.
(With this one you just start the swing by turning your hips, exactly as in Drill #1.)
Sometimes I just start with a shoulder turn, but I usually only do this if I'm having
trouble with Element #3, or just not getting my shoulders turned. All or any of these
starting thoughts and actions works just fine.
Some other "starters" that I know of are the right knee "kick" (much like a forward
hand press, but done with the right knee). Nicklaus and others cock the head to the
right, some people just "take it back low and slow." I'll list these here for easier
reference.
• 1. Hands (forward press)
• 2. Hips (just start hips as in Drill #1)
• 3. Shoulder (start with shoulder turn)
• 4. Knee (forward press with right knee)
• 5. Head (cock head to right)
• 6. Club back low and slow
Watch the pros and ask players what they do and think of doing when they start their
swing for additional ideas. You'll find most use one of the above or something real
similar. What these actions and thoughts do is give you a specific action to do which
puts you in action and doing, and therefore in control (or at cause) of the events taking
place. You at least know HOW you're going to START THIS THING!!
So this is one of the things you experiment with, and decide which one, or ones work
best for you. My preferences are the first three. The forward press helps keep my left
arm straight and gets my shoulders and hips turning nicely. It kind of pre cocks my
wrists so I don't do much with them later. In other words it helps me get the 3
Elements into my golf swing, and it does so without conscious effort. Why? Got me, but
it feels good and permits me to be target oriented. (Later we'll talk about how
important target orientation is in this game.)
The shoulder turn is good for me if I'm not turning and extending well. I actually try to
reach the position in Drill #2 (arms straight out away from target without wrist cock)
then just cock the wrists a little and keep turning shoulders. This also gets the Elements
in for me. The only real difference between this swing and the Drills is that is occurs
more or less simultaneously or in one smooth action (well hopefully smooth, we all
have those days you know). I also try to reach that Drill #2 position when I start with a
hip turn. Once again my hips and shoulders move at the same time and I just lift the
arms slightly after achieving the "Drill #2" position.
I will reiterate, I'm not really thinking about all this as I swing, most of it occurs
naturally and smoothly. Of course you have to have the drills down to some degree for
them to happen effortlessly. So, find a trigger and pull it!!
I mentioned timing earlier in this chapter and in the last few paragraphs. Timing is
important in the back swing but even more important in the downswing. It involves
tempo, rhythm, synchronization, and feel. In technical terms it is how and when the
Elements come into place. When you watch touring pros at their best, you are seeing
the Elements timed to perfection. Most of these guys make swinging a golf club look
easy. And, it actually is when you have the Elements and timing all in place. The funny
thing is, is that the better your timing is, the harder you can "fire" at the target, and
still make it effortless. As in starting the swing I will give you some various ideas on
how to get your timing in shape. Things I use and things other people use. Once again,
ask good players about this subject. You will find that they use many of the thoughts I
will mention and some individuals will have other thoughts and methods they use.
The first one I'll give you is a target oriented "thought." Actually it's not really a thought,
it's just a do. Just smoothly and with intent, "fire" at the target! Go at the target. Just
do it! On those days (and I hope you have many of them), when you are naturally in
synch and have a good groove, this intention puts you in the "zone." Your Elements are
in place; you're swinging smoothly, now intention is all that is occurring. This is the
strongest and best way to play the game!!!! There's the target and the intention is to
hit the ball right at the target. The funny thing is, is that the thought "hit it at the
target", is not anything close to the intention "hit it at the target." The intention without
conscious effort is what being in the "ZONE" is all about.
Fortunately, until, or unless your timing on any given day is coming easy to you,
excellent, or at least good golf can still be played; (It's hard to be in the "Zone" all the
time.) Here are some of the other things I try to think of or do. Swing my hands
smoothly and slowly to the target. This works for me in a strange way. When my hands
are getting ahead of my swing, thinking of starting with my hands slowly actually gets
my shoulders moving better. (I got this one from Payne Stewart in an article.) Notice,
however, that the target was involved in this swing thought also.
I'll also think of firing my right shoulder at the ball. This one gets me firing my lower
body more in synch with my hands and shoulders. Funny how that works. This is not as
target oriented, but definitely helps my timing when it is off. Here's another kind of
weird one. Keep your left toe on the ground through impact. A note here. I've found
many swing thoughts actually get your mind off certain areas which will occur naturally
if you are concerned with something else. Yes, this is a strange game! Anyway, this one
first of all is a good technical practice. If your left toe is on the ground at impact you
will hit out and through to target and won't get your upper body ahead of the swing. It
keeps you "on" the ball at impact. Strangely enough this is a pretty good target
orientation thought because you'll have that feeling of swinging out (and that's right)
through to the target!!
Another great swing thought is just to think of a well balanced perfect finish. While this isn't
target conscious, it is intention to do the things you need to do which result in a good finish,
which of course requires that you swing well. The target comes along with that intention.
Hit through to the target, or in the case of irons, down and through to the target is a good one.
It's kind of covered in the previous swing keys, but it is a fine target oriented swing thought.
If you are having real difficulty with your timing use a three quarter swing and try to start the
downswing slowly with everything together.
What did I just say a couple of sentences ago, "in the case of irons hit DOWN, and
through the ball." I'm going to clear up a little misconception many golfers have. Even
many of the golfers who know you have to hit "down" on the ball to make it go up don't
really know why. I find when you understand why this is, and have this concept, you
will be more in agreement with the action of hitting down on the ball and be better off
for it. How many times have you heard, "I didn't get under that one" on a golf course?
There is only one shot in all of golf that you want to "get under" the ball on, and that is
the flop shot. Here is why. (Sand shots aren't included here.)
What occurs to a golf ball when you hit up on it or "get under it" is that the lower part
of the ball compresses on the lower part of the club head. This is not good, for the ball
neither compresses that much, and imparts less backspin, or actually causes top spin to
occur. Less compression means less distance, and loss of accuracy in some cases. Not
only that but it is much more difficult to strike the ball consistently this way.
There is much less room for error and your results are very inconsistent. (Sound like
any golfers you know?) When the ball is struck properly with the club head still on a
slightly downward path, the club head strikes the middle of the ball, or just below the
equator. The ball then compresses greatly, actually "taking the shape" (compressing
against a large area) of the clubs face (which amazingly enough is angled upward), and
thereby propelling the ball upward and with a great deal of spin. This is good for
consistent distance because of the compression, and also good for accuracy and
stopping ability because of the spin. And it is infinitely easier to strike the back of the
ball than to "get under" it and hit it clean.
SCIENCE!! I've seen this knowledge and the subsequent application take 5 strokes off a
player’s game without any swing change. Of course, all good players hit the back of the
ball (some with more of a downward blow, large divots, than others) but never with an
upswing, even if they don't really know the physics involved. This is not speculation! I
have seen pictures which prove this. By the way, when you go to show your friends this
amazing phenomenon, use a whiffle or a nerf ball, you can actually show the
compression with one. In fact if you're not convinced yourself use one of these balls
and push the club head into the ball; first with an upward motion hitting the lower part
of the ball, then with a downward motion hitting the back (right at the equator) of the
ball SCIENCE!! Like I said, this is most valuable because now you understand how the
concept works and can therefore apply it with confidence. To sum it up: HIT THE BACK
OF THE BALL!
By the way, with a driver on a tee ball you do want to hit slightly up on the ball. This by
the way is why the tee ball is played further forward than any other shot. The reason
being that you don't want backspin on a tee shot and (depending on the loft of your
driver) will carry the ball a fit further.
Here are some other swing thoughts or "tips" you might even call them. I'm sure you've
heard, or read some, or all of them before. However; all of these have one thing in
common: they all have something to do with the Elements, or help get one or more of
the Elements in. This gives you more of an understanding about what you're trying to
achieve with these "tips." When looked at with the Elements in mind they make more
sense and you will see what and how they achieve their purpose.
• 1. Turn your back so that it is facing the target. (Element #2, helps Element
#3)
• 2. Keep your hands in front of your chest. (Element #3)
• 3. Turn "in a barrel." (Elements #1, #2, and #3)
• 4. Take the club away low and slow. (timing, Element #3)
• 5. Turn your right hand pants pocket back while keeping right knee still.
(Element #1)
• 6. Keep head still. Let me say something here about that. Actually what
really happens that causes a problem here is the lifting of the shoulder and
upper body system (up) or a bad lean; no turn (backward). Your head just
happens to be attached. A stable head assures a stable body. So this one is
more don't lift your body up, and don't lean. However I like to think positives
not don'ts. So the thought I use is keep the head relatively stable. (Element
#1 and #2)
• 7. Keep left arm straight. (Elements #3, and #2 somewhat)
These are some (I've mentioned others earlier) and there are others. Once again it is of
some value to ask good (below 10) players what some of their key swing thoughts are
and why. If they have validity, you will be able to recognize how they assist or pertain
to the Elements. These swing thoughts are not a substitute for drilling and working on
the Elements! They are of some assistance (although not always) in keeping the
Elements in after you know and have achieved the ability to perform them. Once again
it really doesn't take long to learn them, but it can take a while to do them consistently
near perfect every time. DO THE DRILLS and the rest of this is easy!!
This is a highly neglected area by poorer golfers. It is part of the problem of consistency.
I know this guy (I play in a league with him, usually my partner) who has about as bad
a swing, short game technique, and putting stroke as you'd ever want to see. He will
never be a really good player until he fixes some of that, and I doubt he ever will. but
he has a consistent, and I mean consistent routine. He does the exact same thing
before every shot he takes, putting included, and it is not a routine I would even
recommend. But because he repeats his routine so religiously, he is able to shoot
consistently in the 80's. It’s truly amazing. It’s also disheartening to his opponents who
can't figure out how in the world a guy like this can beat them. But beat them he does.
I kind of admire the guy’s tenacity and commitment to his own unique game. I'm just
pointing this out to show how much a part of winning golf and consistency has to do
with routine.
Every pro goes through a routine. Everyone. Each one has a normal consistent
repeatable routine. Watch for yourself! EVERY ONE!!! Am I making myself clear here?
Are you getting the point? EVERY PRO GOES THROUGH A SET ROUTINE EVERY SHOT!!!
This cannot be viewed as a coincidence. I guess I don't need to point out at this time
that you should too? Here's my basic routine for a non-putting or chipping golf shot.
(Putting and chipping is not much different though.) I stand behind the golf ball while
taking my grip. I get my grip; club is pointing toward the target. Then I envision the
shot I'm going to make. I slowly, calmly, and assuredly step up to the side of the ball
while still looking at the target. Now I will use various setup procedures on different
days, but I usually keep the same one for weeks or months. It only varies in that
sometimes I set up with only my left hand on the club, sometimes only my right
(rarely; although there is nothing wrong at all with that) and sometimes with both
hands on the club. I use different ones for reasons that are too detailed to explain here,
and of rather no significance to anyone except me.
Then I basically just do the setup routine of Drill #1, getting in a balanced athletic position
lowering down to the hitting position. You should have the exact stance and posture as in Drill
#1. Once I'm in position I look at the target again, waggle until I feel good (I like to do this
about 4 times). Waggle slight back and forth motion imitating small swing, used to keep
motion going and feel what the back swing will start with. I will keep looking at the target
during setup and waggle until I've got the target in my head. Then I key in my starting move
and go. This is a pretty standard routine. Use it or another one that works for you. Once again,
observe and copy pros if you like. They all have routines that work for them. You can certainly
incorporate most of what you observe them doing into your own routine. They all start from
behind the ball just as I do (and by the way they didn't get it from me). The big thing is, is to
have a repeatable routine and use it for every shot, every time. It's very important.
Pretty much the best way to align yourself is to have everything "square" or parallel to
the target. However this does vary from shot to shot and player to player. Trevino sets
up "open" a good deal. This promotes a fade. Peter Jacobson, while he was hot a year
ago, was setting up closed with his feet and parallel with his shoulders. (That is my
preference.) A closed stance (feet and shoulders with a square club head) will promote
a draw. When I want to hit a different shot; high, low, draw, fade, or a combination
thereof, I do it mostly with setup.
I'm not going to go into this here in detail (there's quite a lot about special shots to be
learned) but basically here's the different square or normal setups to use.
• 1. Low draw: play the ball back further than normal and close (move your
right foot back so your feet are to the right of target). Club head square to
target.
• 2. High draw: same, with the ball further forward than usual. This is not an
easy shot if you want to really move the ball a good distance from right to left.
• 3. High fade: ball forward open (opposite of closed, left foot back) stance.
• 4. Low fade: ball back open stance.
Like I said earlier there is a good deal to know about different ways to "work" the ball
and shape shots, but these setup differences will produce these different shots and are
invaluable once you know how to make them. Get the Elements in first, however,
before you start with the fancy stuff, or you'll get out of gradient and sequence.
As far as ball placement goes, it is easy. Put the ball where your swing will hit it! Yeah,
I know that sounds kind of stupid, but the point here is that once you have a swing
down to some degree, don't mess up the swing by putting the ball somewhere where
your swing won't hit it! If you've got the Elements in you'll pretty much know where the
ball should be.
Ok, I will give some other pointers on this matter. Do your setup routine as in Element
#1, with a club in your hand. After you lower your body so that the club is touching the
ground, adjust your body so the middle of the club face is directly behind the middle of
the ball. Now this will change with different clubs, because of the length and loft of the
club. Basically with a neutral grip, the five-iron will end up with the ball in the middle,
directly in front of your belt buckle.
For shorter clubs you will play the ball back further (toward your right foot), and for
longer clubs you will play the ball further forward (toward your left foot). A word of
warning here. This is not a written in stone necessity or anything close to it. Much
depends on your grip, your setup, your clubs, your individual swing and your
preferences. I personally play the ball back a bit further most of the time than standard
for two reasons.
• 1. I have a bit of a strong (to the right of neutral) grip.
• 2. I setup with a bit of a closed stance with my feet. Why? It just feels right
to me, and so that is where my swing will make contact with the back of the
ball!
By the way, in my setup I keep my shoulders on line with my target. It's just easier for
me to turn my hips and keep my right knee solid when I move my right foot back a
little. In other works, for me it helps get Element #1 in. Many pros have suggested I
change this in my game (even when I was playing well and hitting very straight shots).
It took me years and hearing some tour players saying they did this also until I
regained complete confidence in my natural setup again. It always looked right and felt
right to me. I didn't even realize I was setting up "wrong" until it was pointed out to me.
So I've finally decided that my setup was right for me and have been quite successful
with it. The point here is that if your setup is sound and it helps or allows you to get the
Elements in, than it is the right setup for you. It doesn't mean that nay setup is
workable, just that there are variations (just as in the golf swing) that will work.
Now I will and do change my grip (more neutral) or my feet (more square) from time to
time or even shot to shot, but those are just slight changes in "style." What can't
change and work in a setup is forcing something which will get in the way of the
Elements being executed.
Well that's pretty much it for the golf swing! I'm sure I'll have a bit more to say in the
summary section. Once again DO THE DRILLS. Observe pros and notice how they get the
Elements in. I'm sure you'll find that your swing is looking more and more like a pro within a
few days of doing the drills. I have observed that this method works without fail, as long as
any kind of effort has been made to learn the 3 Elements. I'm sure you'll find that it will work
for you too!!
This is my favorite part of the game. And whether or not you like it, low scores depend on
having a good short game! If you don't have a particularly good short game or don't care
much for this part of the game, I hope this chapter changes both of those things for you.
It is not that difficult to achieve an acceptable short game. It will take a bit of practice, but the
method I will show you, in my opinion, (and I have a good short game) is the easiest most
effective approach to this part of the game. I use no or almost no wrists or hand motion at all
on 95% of my shots. (See and watch Greg Norman.) I can even show you how to hit a great
no wrist flop shot which will serve you on about 90% of the flop shots you need. The only time
I feel hands belong in the short game is when you need a large amount of spin (top or back)
on the ball. And I mean need not want.
Most, 95% + shots can be made without it and in my opinion can be made more consistently.
Now this doesn't mean you hit short shots without "feel" in your hands. It just means not
manipulating the club with your wrists; and using your shoulders to generate smoothness and
consistency. The only players who are any good at the short game and are ":handsy" are the
ones who spend hundreds of hours practicing it. Even at that, all of those players still use the
basic shoulder turn (back), shoulder through on most of their short game shots and almost
every pro uses that method in putting.
All good short game players use a nice shoulder turn. All people with less than adequate short
games do not have or use their shoulders properly. The short game is all about just turning
your shoulders back the proper distance and smoothly returning them through to target! It'
just Drill #2 without doing Drill #1 first. That's all there is to a good short game.
So before we go any further, here's the short game drill. By the way, this is also the putting
drill, only in the putting drill you will have a putter in your hand and have your putting stance.
The action is the exact same. This really keeps the short game simple and believe me is quite
effective.
The setup for this Drill is very similar to the setup for Drill #1. The only difference is
that you don't need quite as wide of a stance, and you can open your left foot out a
good bit. I usually open mine 30 - 45 degrees. I feel like it helps me go through to the
target. So here's the drill.
• 1. Get in your setup position.
• 2. Keep your head perfectly still throughout the Drill. (This is essential!)
• 3. Take the club back about two feet using your shoulders only. Your hands
don't do a thing, and there is no real lower body movement.
• 4. Stop your backward movement. Come to a complete stop.
• 5. Smoothly and with acceleration, turn your shoulders back and through to
the left until the club is about two feet toward the target.
That is all you need to do to have a successful short game. It is that simple and easy.
Keep it that way.
I will go over some safeguards and checkpoints here. And once you can do this drill
correctly you can vary the length of it, but always come through at least as far as you
went back. This assures acceleration and smoothness. The main checkpoints of this drill
are just to see if you kept your head absolutely still and if you kept your hands out of
the action. Be sure that you are still looking directly at the ground where the ball was,
or would be. When chipping or putting to be sure I do this, I use the thought "Make the
shot and lets see what was under that ball anyway." I actually use this thought
sometimes when I'm playing. Besides assuring no head movement, it kind of "lightens
me up" on the shot or situation at hand. It's one of those "swing thoughts" that lets
your body do what it already knows to do without conscious effort.
The other checkpoint is to make sure your hands were passive. The best thought and
check here is to make sure that the left hand always stays ahead of the club head.
When you finish the stroke the club head should not have passed by your left hand.
(This goes for putting also.) Also you can check to see that the back of your left hand is
still facing the target. Hmmmm… Tell you anything about where the ball will go? When
done properly, both these checkpoints will prove positive; you won't have one without
the other.
So if you can do this Drill in real life you will have a great short game and I will now
discuss how to use and apply this drill for a large variety of shots. I'll also discuss with
you some of the pitfalls and why the command over this simple drill will help you avoid
those pitfalls.
There are two things you can do to vary the distance of a chip shot.
• 1. Use a larger stroke.
• 2. Use a different lofted club. I employ both. The first thing to do is to

go out to a practice green (one that allows chipping; and although that
is preferable; your back yard will do for practice at home) and do the
Short Game Drill with balls using a pitching wedge.
At first don't try to hit the ball any particular distance. Just make good solid contact and
do the two foot back and through drill. After a couple minutes of this you will notice
how far the ball goes. Now use a 9 iron for a bit, then an 8 and so forth. As you will find,
you can (if you like this method) use the same stroke and just vary clubs for different
distance for almost all of your chip shots. Now that's pretty simple. More than that, it's
very workable!
Now, of course, you will have to use judgment as the conditions of the shot vary,
downhill, uphill, soft green, fast green, etc. But the beauty of this system is that you
can use the same stroke for most of your short game shots. The other way you can
vary distance is to use a bigger swing and hit it harder. This is where the shoulder turn
only system comes in most valuable. Reason being it is definitely easier to judge the
distance with your shoulders, than with your arms or hands. This is because shoulders
take longer to turn and have a greater margin of error.
Personally, I fall right about in the middle of using different clubs, same stroke and
varying my stroke length. I won't generally us less than an 8 iron around the green.
However, because I'm pretty experienced, I will de-loft a club by playing the ball back
in my stance and thereby changing both loft and spin. I just like the shorter clubs for
these shots.
Which brings us to the almost unlimited shots you can make using this shoulder method.
You see the stroke (except for length) remains the same. That is your stable point.
Here are some of the things you can do for different shots. The main thing you can do
is change the position of the ball, further forward for a higher, softer shot, back in the
stance for a more low running shot. The thing here is that usually I'd only use my sand
wedge when I need a high soft shot, and only if I need a higher one than normal would
I change the ball position forward. Experiment with this to see how the trajectories are
affected.
Now comes a bit of a word of warning. The further you play the ball forward, the less
room for error you have because you are approaching getting under the ball. And as I
discussed earlier, this is more difficult to hit the ball cleanly with. So there is a point
where you can't really play the ball safely any further forward. SO, if you still need to
hit the ball higher and softer than that, here is where you start opening your clubface.
Now to open your clubface properly you actually re-grip the thing. Open it (turn it to
the right), then re-grip it with a neutral grip, so that when you make your standard
shoulder move you still don't have to manipulate the hands (this is also done on sand
shots). Now we have an open clubface with the ball forward. Now even with just a
shoulder turn this is not a particularly easy shot because the more you open the
clubface and put the ball forward, the greater need for precision there is. However, if
you stay still and execute the shoulder turn properly, it isn't that difficult and you can
really pop it up very softly and accurately. Now I carry a couple of sand wedges, one for
the sand and 90 - 110 yard full shots, and another for chipping and specialty shots, and
full shots from 90 - 100 yards and in. My "specialty" wedge is very rounded on the
bottom and I can just about lay that sucker flat without it bouncing. It's a Wilson and I
love the thing. It is however, not particularly good out of the sand where you need a
little something to go through the sand.
So there are only two shots in the short game I use any real wrist action on. The first is
when I need a very high flop shot and have a bit of yardage to negotiate. Like if I'm
right behind a tree and thirty yards out. I'll open the clubface (just as in the chip flop
shot) and make a full swing. You break the wrists in this shot going back, but you don't
turn them back through at impact. You leave them open or cocked. This hits the ball
very high, very quickly, but is a most difficult shot to hit. Phil Mickelson is a master at
this shot. I can't believe how accurate he is with this. The other time I will use my
wrists are on shots that for some reason or other I need a low running shot. Sometimes
if you need to hit a ball into a bank and want it to pop over the bank, this is handy too.
This is pretty simple to execute, but the distance is the tricky part here. All you do is
play the ball back, select the club you need for the desired trajectory, cock (or turn) the
wrists at the same time you are turning your shoulders and release both shoulder and
wrists, (yep you guessed it) down and through the ball. If you have time, practice this
one. It also comes in handy for longer shots when there seems to be a tree or a branch
in the wrong place. Like right in front of you!
But, by and large, 95% + of your short game shots can be made with the standard
Short Game Drill shot. I make a good deal of chip-ins with this technique. A birdie chip
in is devastating to an opponent. I almost always pull the pin on my chip shots as long
as I can still see the hole well. The only time I will leave the flag in is if I don't feel
there is much chance of stopping the ball near the pin. I feel like many more shots are
knocked out of the hole by the flag stick than are helped to go in because it knocked
the ball down.
Like I said, if I'm in a situation where there's a good chance the ball will be too "hot" to
fall, I'll leave it in, but only then. This is not only a physical thing, but a mental thing for
me. It is also one of the only "psych-outs" I will use on an opponent. I fully expect to
make or at least give it a good go on a straight forward chip of 25 feet and in.
I want my opponents "agreement" that I will and can make this shot and I want him to
know I believe and am trying to make it and it means nothing to me that he may be on
the green and I'm not: I'm still going to win the hole or at least give it a real effort.
Strangely enough, I make many chipped in birdies, sometimes a couple or more in a
round. This is totally demoralizing to some opponents. See, they assign this to luck or
bad fate, when in fact it's just that these shots aren't that much more difficult than the
same length putt. Especially when you use the shoulder turn alone method. I think
you'll be pleasantly surprised how many of your chips start to fall. It will no longer be
just a couple times a year! Do the Drill!
It always comes down to putting. Why?, simply because it is the final step of the object of the
game. To me golf's magic, its strength, its overwhelming appeal is entrenched within its simple
objective. Take a small round spherical object and hit it into a hole with sticks. It is amazing
what has become the most actively participated in sport, started, and remains the most simple
of concepts. I have many times wondered if this compelling game's popularity and appeal
comes from our past. How many times has man played this game from prehistoric times up
until today?
Golf probably was reinvented millions or even billions of times by every man who ever had a
stick in his hand and a small stone nearby. Of course, it needed to be organized into a sport
with rules and procedures to make it what it has been for the last few centuries. However I
believe its appeal is held in its overwhelmingly simple object of hit a ball in a hole. I think it
helps that most people can physically play the game, but the same is true of many games
which do not have the mass appeal golf has.
Anyway, putting is the act which actually gets the ball into the hole, well 99% of the time. I
don't know the exact % putting occupies for different handicaps, but a player spends at least
35%, usually more with his putter in his hands. It is by far the most used club in the bag. Like
it or not it is therefore a very important factor in shooting low scores. Why is the hole so
small? Obviously if it were larger, say the size of a bucket, the importance of putting would be
diminished. However when this great game was developed a drain pipe was used as the
standard cup and not a bucket. So we are involved in getting a small ball to roll along the
ground into a hole approximately 2 1/2 times the size of the ball, and even though the ground
over which it rolls is well prepared even a putt of 3 ft. requires accuracy and judgment.
This brings us to how to putt with accuracy and judgment. As you might expect I have a Drill
and a couple of practice routines for putting, but first let’s address the judgment part. This is a
highly neglected part of the game for most high handicap golfers. I don't know if many players
just don't know how to read greens (not a whole lot is written about it), or if they just don't
think it matters that much. Well I know it matters a great deal. Not only because of the
obvious fact that if there is a break and you don't play it, or you misjudge the speed the ball
won't fall in the hole, but reading greens accurately gives one confidence. It is a skill which you
can improve and thereby gain even more confidence, and making putts is all about confidence.
Now it really doesn't take a long time to read a putt. I fortunately learned from a
professional caddie and from asking and reading how to go about this. Obviously
different people do somewhat different things but here is a list of the things I do for
almost every putt.
• 1. As you are walking to the green just observe the green. Just look at
the whole thing and the land around it. This gives you a feel for how the
whole green is basically setup. You can usually tell if it slopes generally
to the front or back or sideways or not much at all.
• 2. Look at your putt from both sides of the hole! If you see the same
thing from both sides fine, if there is a discrepancy trust the view which
is uphill or under the hole. Now when you look at a putt don't just look
at the line between your ball and the hole. This is why most people have
trouble reading putts. First look twenty feet to each side of the line of
your putt, then ten, then five, and then at the hole. You won't believe
how much better your reading becomes until you do this. You don't have
to spend a lot of time in this procedure or analyze too much, just look.
This gives you an amazingly clearer picture of what the putt will do.
You'll have the whole picture instead of a very narrow view.
• 3. On your way back and forth between looking at your putt from
behind your ball and behind the hole, check out the slope. Once again
start your observation further out than your ball and further away from
the hole and narrow it down. • 4. Now one more look before you start
your putting procedure until you have the precise line and speed you
intend to use, and sink the putt. Unless it is your turn to putt first, do as
much of this observation as possible, without bothering other players,
before it is your turn. It doesn't take a lot of time to accurately read
greens, but take the time necessary and you can improve your putting
dramatically.
One more note on reading greens. On really tough severe downhill breakers it is
extremely useful to view the putt directly under the cup. Not directly on the line of your
putt but directly downhill under the cup. This gives you a better perception of line and
speed.
Next, is the putting drill. It is almost exactly like the Chipping Drill. The only difference
is that you are holding a putter and will use a shorter stroke. Which brings us to a
rather important item here, how to hold a putter and putting setup. This comes in the
area of; any way that feels right and works. I will however cover some of the things
that work for others, as well as the things which work for me.
The putting grip varies so much from player to player it is hard to find two exactly alike,
however there are similarities. I use a "reverse" interlocking grip with my left index
finger over the right pinkie. There are some pros that use this or the same thing but the
left index finger overlaps both the pinkie and the fourth finger. Some players turn their
hands in, or under the club. Some put their right finger down the shaft. There are a
million variations. The object is basically to keep the wrists solid and from breaking
down to one side or the other, and to have the hands working together so they don't
push or pull the club head to one side or the other. I'm sure you've seen the cross
handed grip with the left hand below the right. (This is also used to keep the stroke
solid and the wrists from "breaking down.") There are so many different grips all I can
tell you here is to ask good putters, and experiment.
The setup is equally individual. The only thing I would strongly suggest is to be sure
both arms and shoulders are parallel to your target. Now I have one of the weirdest
(lets call it unique) setups there is. I prefer the cradle (ala Nicklaus) but I also like to let
the putter hang straight down, and I bend over a good deal. I've been told I look like a
bizarre bird. I've tried other methods because of this, but none work as well for me,
and on my good days which are frequent) I putt as good as anyone. The important
thing here is to grip and setup in a manner which allows the shoulders only stroke to be
precise and effective.
A few other tips. I use a very large putter grip. It really helps me keep my wrists
inactive, Many pros have large grips or build their grips up with tape for this same
purpose. I also set up with my hands directly below or underneath my shoulders. This
helps keep the club head on line with the shoulder swing. Hands outside the line of the
shoulders have a tendency to pull the club head back in, and hands inside the shoulder
line will push it. If you have any of these tendencies check out this alignment. One
other thing I do, (or don't do) is I don't ground the club head when I putt. It makes for
a smoother more relaxed stroke and it additionally can save you a penalty stroke in the
case that your ball moves on you at address. So let’s go onto the Putting Drill.
• 1. Get your grip and setup
• 2. Without EVER moving your head just turn your shoulders directly on the
line of the putt, until the club comes back about a foot.
• 3. Stop.
• 4. Slowly, smoothly and with acceleration go through the ball at least as far
as you went back, all with your shoulders.
• 5. Keep your head absolutely still. Keep your lower body absolutely still.
Keep your wrists from breaking and your arms from getting involved and you have a
professional putting stroke. You will feel like your arms and hands come through the
ball, but this is controlled entirely with the shoulder unit.
This is not hard to do, at least in practice. It seems to be another matter on the course.
The biggest problem is head or body movement. If your head is still your body will be
still. I personally have more trouble moving my head slightly on the backstroke when
my putting is amiss. It is the first thing I check when my putting goes and 9 times out
of 10 is the culprit. (It took me years to find this out!) I usually looked for something
else first. It is an excellent practice to listen for your putts to go in, and as in chipping,
Look to see what really is under that ball, is an excellent "swing thought."
There are two practice routines I recommend for the putting green.
• 1. Sink 5 three footers in a row. Keep starting over every time you
miss.
• 2. Than sink 4 four footers in a row.
• 3. Sink 3 five footers in a row.
• 4. Sink 2 six footers in a row.
• 5. Sink 1 ten footer.
Now these numbers and variations thereof of course can be changed. Sometimes I go
for 20 three footers. You'd be surprised how much pressure it can be to sink those last
five putts. The idea here is to set a goal and not quit until you achieve it. It is truly
amazing the confidence and experience these type of practice routines give you. This
next routine is great for feel or distance.
To me distance is everything in putting. It is what Crenshaw does better than anyone

I've seen. There are arguments that he is the best putter ever. Personally, I don't think
he could even play on the tour if his putting were mediocre. And yet he is one of the
best out there. If my distance or feel is on, my putts go right where I want them to and
of course because they are the proper distance fall more often. The confident putt goes
straight. If you have the feel for how to hit the putt (distance) you will strike the putt
confidently. So here's the routine.
• 1. Use 8 or more balls.
• 2. Place a club 3 feet in back of the hole so any putt you hit over 3 ft/
past will hit the shaft.
• 3. Now place one ball 6 ft out, the next 9 ft. the next 12 ft, and so on.
• 4. The object of this game is to get the ball at least to the hole but not
far enough past to hit the club (which is 3 ft. past the hole) If you don't
get it to the hole or you hit the club; start over. (In the hole is fine too.)
• 5. Keep doing this until all the balls get to the hole but don't hit the
club, which is placed behind the hole. Do this going uphill, downhill, and
side hill. Its results are nothing short of fantastic. You will find this
game much easier with the shoulder stroke only because as in chipping
it is much easier to judge distance with a shoulder stroke, it is more
consistent.
I guarantee if you do these 2 practice routines twice a week for about an hour. (Start
with fewer balls at first if you need to.) After a month you will take 5 to 10 strokes off
your game if putting was not already a strong point in your game. Making up games out
of practicing helps keep it fun and you achieve more because you are interested. Keep
your head still, use your shoulders, do these routines and you will make more putts
than you ever thought possible. Your friends will just hate you!
This will probably be the shortest chapter in the book. There's not that much to playing out of
bunkers. I will say this about bunker play however. I'm sure you've heard pros say the sand
shot is one of the easiest shots in the game. And that would be true except that the courses
and conditions they play are usually quite different than the ones you and I encounter. First off
there is some consistency even between the courses they play as far as the type and amount
of sand in the bunkers; and there is a great deal of consistency from bunker to bunker on a
given course. I don't know about you, but what I encounter on any given course ranges
between mud, or hardpan with about an inch of sand on top, to gravely sand(of varying
depths), to fluffy nice sand which may or may not be an acceptable depth. (Sometimes, it
happens all within the same bunker!). The drainage is usually not that special creating
different conditions within the same bunker, and you're lucky if the course raked it, much less
did a good job of raking it, and even luckier if most of the players before you did any kind of
acceptable job in "cleaning up" after themselves. So I can do pretty well out of sand which I
can predict to some degree, but there are tons of bad sand lies and many variable or bad
conditions (some of them noted above, I'm quite sure you can add to the list!) that the pros
rarely face, which do make bunkers something to fear.
Well enough about the plight of the non pro versus the pro. Don't even get me started on lost
balls, or the mass of humanity which turns balls that would normally be over the world into
easy chip shots, or even putts in extreme cases. Given that however, don't for one second
think that the touring pro needs these type of breaks to shoot the incredible scores on a
consistent basis on the toughest (if best maintained) courses in the world. It's just that we
need those types of breaks more than they do. They get them sometimes, we don't.
OK let’s get down to the sand shot itself. It’s kind of like the flop shot in that all you need to do
under normal circumstances (if you can ever find them) is open the clubface a bit. Same as in
short game open it and then re-grip. Open your stance; aim the back of your left hand where
you want to land the ball, and do a shoulder swing. You'll use anywhere from a quarter swing
to a full swing depending on the circumstance. By the way, what happens when you aim with -
your left hand is this, because your club head is open along with your feet being open you get
a trade-off of ball direction. You swing along the line of your feet but because the club is open
the ball will come out to the right of your swing plane. Now I got this aiming technique from
something I read from Watson. It works very, very well. Just open your club head and feet and
aim the back of the left hand to the target.
Now you're also supposed to normally hit about an inch or two (I use about 1&1/2 inches)
behind the ball. This is fine as it goes, but many people dig the club straight down with no
follow through. The best thought I know of is to try to break an imaginary tee that the ball is
sitting on. This helps you follow through and use the sand to move the ball which is what you
are after. The only specialty shot I'm going to discuss here is the fried egg or buried lie shot.
(Also for the extremely popular in some ones footprint shot.) All you do here is break the
wrists straight up along with a shoulder turn, and go into the sand right behind the ball at a
steep angle. Follow through as best you can. This will get the ball out of the bunker, but it will
have some serious run to it. You need to practice this one to see how much of a stroke you
need to use. Very unpredictable shot this, but it will get you on the green. HEY! Just stay out
of the sand if you don't like being in it. I also think it is appropriate to use that other golf
"witticism" here. There aren't any trees in the fairways. (Not always true). We're getting close
to the golf joke section I feel compelled to put in this book, but I suppose I'll save that for a
different book.
This section is highly subjective and there are many who disagree with my views about the
advent of the "new improved" golf clubs which flood the market today. Yes, the perimeter
weighted, cavity back, oversized golf clubs. Personally I hate them; I actually believe they are
a detriment to ones game, and pretty much a marketing plan to generate fantastic income for
the golf industry. Now I don't feel that way about the woods these companies are producing
(well at least the part of being detrimental), but the irons I do. I'll explain that later.
"But you have a low handicap and don't need the help that these clubs can give you," is a
comment I hear regularly. Trust me I can use all the help I can get. But after a couple of years
of trying this club and that, I found that the woods (metal) could give me some help I could
use, but the detriments of the irons far, far, outweighed any advantage they have. I feel that if
a fellow has a really poor game, it doesn't matter at all which clubs he uses, the ball is not
going where he wants it to anyway. He believes that a more forgiving club can help him. Well
the help he needs is in his game. And as one improves, well, the more the disadvantages of
this new style of "game improvement" clubs come into play. So what do I find so Horrible
about these clubs. Oh let me count the ways, and I'm sure by now you know I will.
• 1) The first and almost the most frustrating "feature" of these clubs is distance control.
When I hit an eight iron under normal conditions, I want it to go 145 yards. Period. I
don't want to hit it 140 one time and 170 the next with what feels to me like the same
swing. You see what the club manufacturers have done to "help" the golfer is, he's de-
lofted the club, added weight to the bottom and to the perimeter, and put in shafts with
more "kick" at the flex point. Now the added bottom weighting and the flex point make
up for the de-lofting by getting the ball up in the air more for the amount of loft on the
club, so you get the same or even higher trajectory as in a conventional club, and
because it's de-lofted and has more of a kick, it goes further. And if I could come close
to telling how much further on any given shot, I might not mind using these clubs so
much!. I have airmailed so many greens with those things I can't begin to tell you. And
about the worse trouble you can get in, is flying a green by 20 yards, and even just 5
yards on some greens, and you're dead; penalty shot, unplayable lies, many lost balls,
and out of bounds have been the magnificent results I've achieved using these
wonderful clubs. These can be absolute round ruining shots, especially in tournament
play. Still many of the good players I know play with them, even though they have the
same problems I had (notice I used past tense there) with them. Yes they feel more
solid on off center shots than my blades, but I want to know how far the ball is going
with a short iron shot.
• 2) When I do hit a shot to the right or left, I don't want it to go as far as if I hit it
straight. This is a big selling point for these clubs. But think about it. Ninety percent of
the time if you hit the ball left or right of the green you are better off being short than
pin high or long right or left. Not to mention, how many greens have slopes on the side
that you really don't want to hit on the fly. A green will hold a pin high shot, a slope, or
even just off the green has a tendency to bounce much harder, and send your shot
further into trouble. So when you miss a shot, and I never noticed these clubs improve
any ones direction, (in fact if I hit the ball a bit on the toe of my blades they have a
tendency to draw the ball back in), you're almost always in a better position for par if
you end up short or near pin high than you are long and further away from the green,
usually with a downhill slope to the hole instead of an uphill slope. When I hit a bit of a
thin shot with my blades they carry just as far but with a lower trajectory and a lot of
spin. Those game improvement clubs if you hit them thin just wave goodbye to the flag
stick as they go by, unless you happen to hit the flag. Now if I hit my blades too thin I
will be short, but once again that is usually preferable to long. Now the reason for all
this is the enlarged "sweet spot" on these new clubs, but I find that there is actually
more variance in distance on a given shot than in my clubs. In other words if I hit my 8
iron sweet as can be, as opposed to just well, I might hit it 5 yards further than normal.
With these wonder clubs they can go up to 20, even as much as 30 yards further than a
normally struck ball. The iron game is an accuracy game. What good does it do to say
"Yeah I hit my 8 iron 180 yards the other day?" Yeah, but what was your score on the
hole? Besides which, if you have a larger gap in between each iron, you have many
more "in between clubs" situations. I think John Daly and Tiger Woods sometimes get
into trouble because of their extreme length, not that the trade-off of distance off the
tee doesn't make up for it, it just isn't an advantage to hit short irons a long way
sometimes. (Note: Since I wrote this book Tiger has learned to control his shorter irons
with a more controlled swing, giving him a more consistent club head speed. You all
know the results!! He is a tough man to beat now!!) When there's a 25 yard difference
between your 8 iron and your 9 iron it's tough to control distance.
• 3) I love to work the ball when I want. It is such a kick to pull off a shot where you
really had to hook or fade the ball. I use punch shots, high fades, etc. etc. when the
situation calls for it, and you just can't pull those shots off as well or consistently with
perimeter weighted clubs. No one will argue that. Many good players don't mind that so
much, I mean you can still pull them off to some degree, but I just love shot making as
opposed to same shot all the time.
• 4) But the biggest reason I can't stand those type clubs and the big name brands are
the worse, is that I cannot for the life of me chip and pitch with the darn things. Now I
admit some of that may be mental, because I don't like the way most of them look, but
even the less extreme ones just seem to rocket the ball off the club and I just couldn't
get a feel for them. Now I did play with one set for almost a full year, and never
chipped as well as I know I can on a consistent basis. I think once again it has
something to do with the de-lofting and the extra weight at the bottom.
• 5) The last thing is that I don't get any feedback from these clubs. I can't feel the
difference in a good shot or a mediocre shot. I want to know when things aren't quite
right, before I get into any bad habits (or at least any more bad habits). When you hit a
good blade you can feel the whole shot better, especially at impact. Golf for me is very
much a game of being able to reproduce an action which brings about a certain feel
which brings about good shots. I know where the ball is going when I hit a shot with
good blades.
Part of this whole thing, in my opinion, is that people would buy a good set of Hogans,
Rams, or Titleists and if you had those why you could use them for 20 or more years,
and it is my belief that they were making such good golf clubs by the late 60's and 70's
that they killed their market except for new golfers. So they had to find a way to
convince golfers that these new clubs were better clubs, and they id. Now one of the
things that I feel enabled them to do this was the advent of the metal wood. I do think
these clubs, big heads, lighter shafts; lighter heads do have a large advantage over the
conventional wood. Why do I feel this way about the woods and not the irons? Because
of the very nature and function of the drive opposed to the nature and function of the
iron shot. I don't care if I hit my driver 20 or 30 yards further sometimes. Do you? I
have no problem with an off center hit still going a good distance even if its a bit off to
one side or the other, on a drive. The only bad trade off I see is that once in a great
while you hit it real bad and it goes far enough to get you in more trouble than a
conventional club. I do however feel those instances are rare. The only time I wouldn't
welcome extra yards is when you'd hit it through the fairway or would rather be a full
wedge away instead of a 2/3’s wedge, but then a person shouldn't be hitting a driver in
those situations anyway! So the metal woods became popular as game improvement
clubs and the rest is history.
Once again there are many good players who disagree with me, and admittedly there are
varying degrees of extremes here. There are some clubs out there that are pretty much just
blades with some perimeter weighting and even some that have little or no perimeter
weighting with the higher irons but as the iron # decreases there is more added. Actually, I
might consider those if I find ones I like. I did earlier state that for the fairly high handicap
player (20+) it really doesn't matter what type of clubs is used. I'll back off a little here.
I suppose that for those players who wish they played better but just don't or aren't going to
put much time in on improving their game, perimeter clubs may have some advantages.
However, I still firmly believe that as a player improves, or tries to improve they are indeed a
detriment. I think I should bring up the fact that the blades being produced in the 70's, and
even 80's were a great improvement in weighting and larger sweet spots without giving up any
play ability. They are very forgiving compared to earlier clubs. Well, they are just better clubs.
In my opinion a very well made blade club is the best "game improvement" club you can own.
At one point I had a bit of concern publishing some of these thoughts about clubs because I
thought the golf industry might not appreciate my viewpoint, but the more I thought about it, I
figured that I might even be doing them a favor. Now they can produce blades again, call them
the accuracy clubs or the players clubs or something of the sort, get the pros who use those
type of clubs anyway, there are many, to endorse them and sell them to the people who now
own their perimeter, oversized clubs. They just need a little twist on it and a good marketing
plan (which they already have). Well enough on my rather unpopular, and perhaps radical
opinions on that subject. Shafts nowadays are works of art (well at least technology). The
problem is, with all the variables out there, is finding the right one for you. I don't like the
ones with too much kick, you never know when you're going to kick them into high gear when
you don't want to, but they are good if you can experiment around with them enough to find
the right one.
Some of these things are kind of touchy subjects. But of course I will comment on them. Golf
etiquette is fairly simple, but often overlooked. Probably the most unknown or un-followed rule
of etiquette that is not followed is "whose turn it is." This is very simple. Whoever is furthest
from the hole, regardless of anything else. Now you may play with folks that use the fire when
ready style of play, and that's fine. But you should always be aware of whose turn it is anyway.
It slows down play when player A is waiting for player B to hit when it is player A's turn.
Usually player A is just being nice, but if I'm player B I don't want to go out of turn, It can
actually throw me off a little and interrupts my routine a little bit. If I'm not on the green and
another person is, but he's further away, it's his turn, PERIOD! It's a rule and if everyone were
aware of when it was or wasn't his turn all confusion about the matter would cease. The only
interruption that would occur is if one had to determine who was further out. Get a rule book
and read it. It's quite interesting and knowing the rules well can save you strokes at times. The
rules also state, right up in the front of the rule book "Play the course as you find it." In other
words play the ball down and the course conditions are the same for everyone. I hate
tournaments that play "winter rules" except for scrambles (Captains choice). Playing winter
rules or preferred lies is not playing golf. Than again scrambles aren't really golf either, but are
a lot of fun. Trust me on this, if you're not playing the ball as it lies you will hinder the
progress of your improvement. The other thing which will most slow your improvement down
is "creative scoring." My brother has a great saying he uses in regard to this matter. “I make
my triple bogies the old fashion way; I earn them!" Cute, but none the less very ethical. Being
out-ethics is the surest way I know of putting stops on any progress. So if you miss a two
footer, count it. No matter what score you come in with you'll have a better day. Stay still and
keep quiet when another is going through his routine and playing a stroke. I have good
peripheral vision, and the thing that can throw me the most is the early walk or lean that
comes into view. Just stay still until the ball is in the air. Talking is rude, but whispering is
worse. At times if I've been annoyed by someone whispering while I'm shooting, I will go over
and nicely say "You know I could hear you whispering over there and it sort of bothered me."
I'm amazed at the times I've heard back "you couldn't have heard us whispering" to which I
reply "Well, how did I know you were whispering then." Of course, there is no good answer to
that and you get your point across.
On the other side of that coin, is however, that there are just going to be times when someone
talks or makes noise somewhere on the course, and the better you get at blocking out
annoyances the better off you'll be. The only way I ever try to "psych' another player out is
with my game. It is a much stronger psych-out than any words could ever be, especially when
it comes to putting, and making par when it looked like a sure bogey. I also never give up on
any shot or hole unless it is mathematically impossible to halve the hole and even then I'll only
pick up so as to move along to the next hole. Giving up constitutes a psych-out on yourself.
I don't want to throw another player off of his game. I want my game to be what wins, not the
downfall of another. It's more "sporting" that way!
Well, now its time to start working on the drills. You know there are only five of them and they
won't take you long at all to reach some degree of proficiency and consistency with them.
You'll also be pleasantly surprised how easy it is to incorporate them into your golf swing and
game. The only thing that seems to take some people more than a week or so in this method
is applying their new and vastly improved swing to an actual round of golf. This of course is
understandable. Have some patience with that part of it. You'll have already experienced
success in doing the Drills and putting your swing together and hitting balls at the range. I
guarantee within a few weeks or so you will be experiencing the best rounds, even
astoundingly so, of your life. I've seen it happen time and again.
What you will end up with is not a fool proof golf game that is infallibly, but such a great,
workable method, that you can use to develop your own game. A game which has less than a
10 handicap attached to it! You will feel, the first time you can accomplish Drill #3, what is
now possible for you to achieve in golf. It will make you smile. But there's a trap here! You
won't be any happier about you’re now much improved golf game after a while than you are
now if you don't accept the foibles and vagaries of this great game. THAT'S WHAT MAKES IT
GREAT!
The better you accept your bad days, the more good days you'll have! This one is pretty deep,
I invite you to consider the ramifications which are within that statement. Anyway, the way
this practically applies itself is that through this method you will now possess the ability to
recognize and repair the things which may go wrong in your golf game. And trust me; at
whatever level you play at, there are times when things will go wrong.
When things go really bad for me I just remember Bernhard Langer shooting two rounds in a
tournament in Europe a week or two after he won the Masters. He shot an 86 &87 or
something very close to that. Amazingly enough so did Ian Woosman after he won the Masters.
Guess that green jacket was hard to play in. I'm sure there was a great emotional letdown in
both of these cases, but the point is that even the best players in the world have and will
continue to have at times very humbling experiences when dealing with GOLF. The other point
I'd like to stress at this time, is that part of this method is you being able now to observe much
more knowledgeably, and be able to apply what you observe. You will know what it is that
makes a great swing great. You will see all three Elements in the pros game, and you will see
Elements missing in higher handicappers games and be able to identify them. You will more
importantly be able to monitor and adjust your own game. Observe, drill, and apply, and I'll
see you in the 70's club soon!
Thank you for reading my book, I'm sure this method will work or is already working for you.
May the birdies fly and may you find yourself in the "ZONE" frequently.

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From The Ground Up / How To Shoot In The 70's 1 OF 31

This Revolutionary, New In structural Method is So Simple, So Easy to Learn, So

I am probably more qualified than most pros at being knowledgeable about

So having said that LETS GO!!

Here's the Setup and Drill to learn how:

From the setup position:

This is simply an extension of Element #1. In fact it occurs as a result of

important thing at this stage is to understand and execute the three

not stressed nearly enough, and is extremely crucial. That is why it is

This Element is somewhat safeguarded in Drill #2 "hands remain in

Oh this little beauty is hard to spot unless one is aware that it

will not operate together or in the proper manner with this

Personally I think it better to get a swing, know your swing, and

• 5. Place your pinkie and thumb back on the club.

o (A) Interlocking - Right pinkie goes under left index finger.

I believe about 95% of the uncertainty at address can be eliminated by having a

• 1. Hands (forward press)

• 2. Hips (just start hips as in Drill #1)

• 3. Shoulder (start with shoulder turn)

• 4. Knee (forward press with right knee)

• 5. Head (cock head to right)

• 6. Club back low and slow

• 2. Keep your hands in front of your chest. (Element #3)

• 3. Turn "in a barrel." (Elements #1, #2, and #3)

• 7. Keep left arm straight. (Elements #3, and #2 somewhat)

• 4. Low fade: ball back open stance.

• 1. I have a bit of a strong (to the right of neutral) grip.

• 1. Get in your setup position.

• 4. Stop your backward movement. Come to a complete stop.

• 1. Use a larger stroke.

• 2. Use a different lofted club. I employ both. The first thing to do is to

• 1. Get your grip and setup

• 2. Than sink 4 four footers in a row.

• 3. Sink 3 five footers in a row.

• 4. Sink 2 six footers in a row.

• 5. Sink 1 ten footer.

To me distance is everything in putting. It is what Crenshaw does better than anyone

• 1. Use 8 or more balls.

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