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BEAUTY AND THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER

Personal adornments across the millennia

Edited by
Monica Mărgărit and Adina Boroneanț
Cover: Dan Iulian Mărgărit
Photo cover: Bone piece with a ringlike morphology from the necropolis of Sultana-Valea Orbului
(Romania) and Spondylus beads from the necropolis of Urziceni-Vamă (Romania) (photos: Monica
Mărgărit)

Descrierea CIP a Bibliotecii Naţionale a României


Beauty and the eye of the beholder : personal adornments
across the millennia / edited by Monica Mărgărit and
Adina Boroneanţ. - Târgovişte : Cetatea de scaun, 2020
Conţine bibliografie
ISBN 978-606-537-461-4
I. Mărgărit, Monica (ed.)
II. Boroneanţ, Adina (ed.)
903

This book was edited with the financial suport of the grant offered by the Romanian National
Authority for Scientific Research and Innovation, CNCS - UEFISCDI, project number PN-III-P1-1.1-
TE-2016-0182, within PNCDI III.

Editura Cetatea de Scaun, Targoviște, 2020


ISBN 978-606-537-461-4
editura@cetateadescaun.ro, www.cetateadescaun.ro
Printed in Romania
CONTENTS
FOREWORD / 7

THE WIDER PICTURE – ADORNMENTS IN REGIONAL STUDIES / 9


Daniella E. Bar-Yosef Mayer - Shell beads of the Middle and Upper Palaeolithic: A review of the
earliest records / 11
Emanuela Cristiani, Andrea Zupancich, Barbara Cvitkušić - Combining microscopic analysis
and GIS to analyse experimental perforations on Columbella rustica shells / 27
Fotis Ifantidis - Self-adorned in Neolithic Greece: A biographical synopsis / 41
Emma L. Baysal - Envisaging the Neolithic and Chalcolithic as a connected world: tracing
ornament movement in Anatolia / 55
Sanda Băcueț Crișan, Ancuța Bobînă - Beauty or social power? / 71
Selena Vitezović, Dragana Antonović - Jewellery from osseous and lithic raw materials in the
Vinča culture / 87
Andreea Vornicu-Țerna, Stanislav Țerna - Signs of a new era: the anthropomorphic
pendants and figurines made of osseous materials and the Chalcolitization of the North-Western
Pontic region / 101
Roberto Micheli - Items to display or to offer? Personal ornaments in Copper Age Northern
Italy / 121
Ekaterina Kashina, Aija Macāne - Wild boar tusk adornments and tools from the Neolithic
hunter-gatherer sites in the Volga-Oka interfluve (Central Russia) / 151
Petar Zidarov - White fangs of the south: canid tooth pendants in Thrace, Macedonia and Western
Anatolia during the Early Bronze Age / 163

ADORNMENTS IN SETTLEMENT ARCHAEOLOGY / 183


Esteban Álvarez Fernández - Personal ornaments in Cantabrian Spain around 17.5 cal BP:
Cualventi Rock-shelter (Alfoz de Lloredo, Cantabria) / 185
Sera Yelözer, Rozalia Christidou - The foot of the hare, the tooth of the deer and the shell of the
mollusc: Neolithic osseous ornaments from Aşıklı Höyük (Central Anatolia, Turkey) / 197
Catherine Perlès, Patrick Pion - The Cerastoderma bead production at Franchthi (Greece): a case
of apprenticeship? / 223
Adina Boroneanț, Pavel Mirea - Clay labrets of the Early Neolithic. A study case from Măgura
Buduiasca (Romania) / 247
Ioan Alexandru Bărbat, Monica Mărgărit, Marius Gheorghe Barbu - First farmers
adornments from the Early Neolithic settlement at Tărtăria-Pietroșița (Alba County, Romania) / 269
Christoforos Arampatzis - “Oh dear, how do I look?” Deer antler pendants from the Neolithic
lakeside settlement Anarghiri IXb, Western Macedonia, Greece / 289
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

Monica Mărgărit, Mihai Gligor, Valentin Radu, Alina Bințințan - About fragmentation,
recycling and imitation in prehistory: adornments made of marine valves in the settlement of Alba Iulia-
Lumea Nouă (Romania) / 299
Gheorghe Lazarovici, Cornelia-Magda Lazarovici - A workshop specialized in gold jewellery
from the Copper Age / 323
Vasile Diaconu - A necklace for a lady. A Cucuteni anthropomorphic representation recently
discovered in Neamț County (Romania) / 343

ADORNMENTS OF THE AFTERLIFE / 351


Lars Larsson - Beads and pendants in a long-term perspective. Tooth beads and amber in the
burials at Zvejnieki, Northern Latvia, through the millennia / 353
Nataliia Mykhailova - Personal ornaments of the children in the Mariupol type cemeteries
(Ukraine) / 371
Zsuzsanna Tóth - Mixing and matching social value: personal adornments made from hard animal
materials in the Late Neolithic burials of Kisköre-Gát (Hungary) / 383
Monica Mărgărit, Cristian Virag, Alexandra Georgiana Diaconu - Were personal adornments
just for women? The case of the Eneolithic necropolis from Urziceni-Vamă (Satu Mare County,
Romania) / 399
Vlad-Ștefan Cărăbiși, Anca-Diana Popescu, Marta Petruneac, Marin Focşăneanu, Daniela
Cristea-Stan, Florin Constantin - Early Iron Age fibulae from Balta Verde, Romania: typology,
combination and manufacture / 413
Dragoş Măndescu - Beauty of the beast. Animal skeletal parts as personal adornments in the Early
Iron Age necropolis at Valea Stânii (Argeş County, Romania) / 431
Lavinia Grumeza - The more colourful, the better! Polychrome glass beads of the 2nd-4th century
cemeteries in Banat (Romania) / 437

4
LIST OF CONTRIBUTORS
Esteban Álvarez Fernández, Gir PREHUSAL, Salamanca, Spain, epanik@usal.es
Dragana Antonović, Institute of Archaeology, Belgrade, Serbia, d.antonovic.960@gmail.com
Christoforos Arampatzis, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, Thessaloniki, Greece,
christ.arabatzis@gmail.com
Daniella E. Bar-Yosef Mayer, The Steinhardt Museum of Natural History and Institute of
Archaeology, Tel Aviv University, Israel/Peabody Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology, Harvard
University, USA, baryosef@tauex.tau.ac.il
Marius Gheorghe Barbu, Museum of Dacian and Roman Civilisation, Deva, Romania,
barbumarius0216@yahoo.com
Emma L. Baysal, Ankara University, Ankara, Turkey, emmabaysal@gmail.com
Sanda Băcueț Crișan, County Museum of History and Art, Zalău, Romania,
sandabacuet2001@yahoo.ro
Ioan Alexandru Bărbat, Museum of Dacian and Roman Civilisation, Deva, Romania,
ioan_alexandru_barbat@yahoo.com
Alina Binţinţan, Independent Researcher, Romania, alina.bintintan@yahoo.com
Ancuța Bobînă, Independent Researcher, Romania, bobinaancuta@gmail.com
Adina Boroneanț, “Vasile Pârvan” Institute of Archaeology, Romanian Academy, Bucharest,
Romania, boro30@gmail.com
Vlad-Ștefan Cărăbiși, “Vasile Pârvan” Institute of Archaeology, Romanian Academy, Bucharest,
Romania, vlad.st.carabisi@gmail.com
Rozalia Christidou, Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique, UMR 5133, Lyon, France,
rozalia.christidou2@gmail.com
Florin Constantin, “Horia Hulubei” National Institute for R&D in Physics and Nuclear
Engineering (IFIN-HH), Bucharest, Romania, fconst@ifin.nipne.ro
Daniela Cristea-Stan, “Horia Hulubei” National Institute for R&D in Physics and Nuclear
Engineering (IFIN-HH), Bucharest, Romania, daniela@nipne.ro
Emanuela Cristiani, University of Rome, Department of Oral and Maxillofacial Science, Rome,
Italy, emanuela.cristiani@uniroma1.it
Barbara Cvitkušić, Institute for Anthropological Research, Centre for Applied Bioanthropology,
Zagreb, Croatia, bcvitkusic@inantro.hr
Alexandra Georgiana Diaconu, Valahia University of Târgoviște, Târgoviște, Romania,
alexandradiaconu4@gmail.com
Vasile Diaconu, Neamț County Museum Complex/Târgu-Neamț Museum of History and
Ethnography, Târgu-Neamț, Romania, diavas_n82@yahoo.com
Marin Focşăneanu, “Horia Hulubei” National Institute for R&D in Physics and Nuclear
Engineering (IFIN-HH), Bucharest, Romania, focsaneanumarin@gmail.com
Mihai Gligor, “1 Decembrie 1918” University of Alba Iulia, Alba Iulia, Romania,
mihai.gligor@uab.ro
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

Lavinia Grumeza, Institute of Archaeology, Romanian Academy – Iași Branch, Iași, Romania,
lavinia_grumeza@yahoo.com
Fotis Ifantidis, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, Thessaloniki, Greece, fotisif@hotmail.com
Ekaterina Kashina, State Historical Museum, Moscow, Russia, eakashina@mail.ru
Lars Larsson, Lund University, Lund, Sweden, Lars.Larsson@ark.lu.se
Cornelia-Magda Lazarovici, Institute of Archaeology, Romanian Academy – Iași Branch, Iași,
Romania, magdamantu@yahoo.com
Gheorghe Lazarovici, “Lucian Blaga” University of Sibiu, Sibiu, Romania,
ghlazarovici@yahoo.com
Aija Macāne, University of Gothenburg, Gothenburg, Sweden, aija.macane@gu.se
Dragoş Măndescu, Argeş County Museum, Piteşti, Romania, dragos_mandescu@yahoo.com
Monica Mărgărit, Valahia University of Târgoviște, Târgoviște/“Vasile Pârvan” Institute of
Archaeology, Romanian Academy, Bucharest, Romania, monicamargarit@yahoo.com
Roberto Micheli, MiBACT ‒ Soprintendenza Archeologia, Belle Arti e Paesaggio del Friuli Venezia
Giulia, Trieste, Italy, roberto.micheli@beniculturali.it
Pavel Mirea, Teleorman County Museum, Alexandria, Romania, pavelcmirea@yahoo.com
Nataliia Mykhailova, Institute of Archaeology of National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine, Kiev,
Ukraine, medzie.nataliiamykhailova@gmail.com
Catherine Perlès, Maison de l’archéologie et de l’ethnologie, Université de Paris Nanterre, Paris,
France, catherine.perles@cnrs.fr
Marta Petruneac, “Horia Hulubei” National Institute for R&D in Physics and Nuclear Engineering
(IFIN-HH), Bucharest, Romania, marta.petruneac@gmail.com
Patrick Pion, Maison de l’archéologie et de l’ethnologie, Université de Paris Nanterre, Paris, France,
patrick.pion@parisnanterre.fr
Anca-Diana Popescu, “Vasile Pârvan” Institute of Archaeology, Romanian Academy, Bucharest,
Romania, ancadiana_popescu@yahoo.com
Valentin Radu, National Museum of Romanian History, Bucharest, Romania,
raduvalentin@hotmail.com
Zsuzsanna Tóth, Eötvös Loránd University, Budapest, Hungary, zsuzsanna.toth11@gmail.com
Stanislav Țerna, “High Anthropological School” University, Chișinău, Republic of Moldova,
ternastas@mail.ru
Cristian Virag, Satu Mare County Museum, Satu Mare, Romania, ccvirag@gmail.com
Selena Vitezović, Institute of Archaeology, Belgrade, Serbia, selenavitezovic@gmail.com/
s.vitezovic@ai.ac.rs
Andreea Vornicu-Țerna, Botoșani County Museum, Botoșani, Romania,
andreea.vornicu.tf@gmail.com
Sera Yelözer, Istanbul University, Istanbul, Turkey, serayelozer@gmail.com
Petar Zidarov, New Bulgarian University, Sofia, Bulgaria/Tübingen University, Tübingen,
Germany, petar.zidarov@gmail.com
Andrea Zupancich, University of Rome, Department of Oral and Maxillofacial Science, Rome,
Italy, andrea.zupancich@uniroma1.it

6
FOREWORD
The message of personal adornments is not an easy one to decipher. Nevertheless, they provide
an insight to the many aspects (social, spiritual, economic, etc.) of human behaviour, personal
expression, relationships and communication. Understanding the complicated social and technical
aspects of adornments generally require a broad spectrum of technical and methodological
approaches as well as a good knowledge of the state of research and numerous local case-studies.
Beyond the aesthetic impact, at times secondary in traditional societies, personal adornments
represents a language in itself, a complex communication system, conveying clear messages on ethnic,
gender and age class affiliation. They are associated to certain rituals (e.g. passage or marital),
they can be amulets or talismans and they can act as currency or as symbols of the ritualistic trade
(e.g. Sciama 1998; Trubitt 2003; Vanhaeren 2005, etc.).
Moreover, their manufacture can be related to complex territorial and economic organization
helping to identify in certain cases crafts and specialized workshops, circulation paths of raw
materials and the existing systems for inter-community exchange (e.g. Newell et al. 1990; Vanhaeren
and d'Erico 2006; Rigaud et al. 2015). Further information can be extracted from their presence in
funerary contexts, revealing whether they were exclusively created for the afterlife or had been part of
the every-day life of the respective individual/community.
There is already an impressive literature dedicated to personal adornments, which analyses the
most diverse aspects: from their possible social-cultural functions to the means of obtaining the raw
materials, the techniques used for their transformation, the ways they were used/repaired and their
discard (e.g. Bar-Yosef Meyer et al. (eds.) 2017; Bar-Yosef Mayer and Bosch (eds.) 2019; Baysal 2019;
Ifantidis 2019; Mărgărit 2019; to exemplify only with the latest publications). Nevertheless, as this
volume also shows, the subject is a vast one and there is continuous need for further exploration.
***
The International Colloquium: “Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across
the millennia” took place at Valahia University, Târgoviște, Romania, between 12 and 14 September
2019. Bearing in mind the complexity of the subject, the participants were invited to discuss a variety
of topics, expressing the views of various “beholders” both in the past and at the present moment:
their meaning/symbolism within the prehistoric/historical societies (e.g. cultural tradition, social
and spiritual organization and exchange systems), raw materials (identification of sources and
acquisition), various methodologies of study (technological and usewear analyses, microscopy,
SEM+EDS analysis, FTIR and RAMAN spectroscopy, etc.) and experimental approaches (creating
experimental reference collections), etc.
At the end of the colloquium, following the discussions with our colleagues, it was decided to
gather all presentations in a volume while also inviting other contributions dedicated to this topic,
in an attempt to capture a broader spatial and temporal image.
The result is the present volume comprising 26 studies organized in three major sections related
to regional studies on adornments, and their use and presence in everyday life and afterlife. Within
one section, papers were organized in chronological order. The papers in the volume cover
geographically the whole of Europe and Anatolia: from Spain to Russia and from Latvia to Turkey; it
spans chronologically many millennia, from the Middle Palaeolithic to the Iron Age (2nd – 4th
centuries AD).
The volume opens with ten regional studies offering not only comprehensive syntheses of various
chronological horizons (Palaeolithic - Daniella E. Bar-Yosef Mayer, Neolithic/Chalcolithic - Emma L.
Baysal; Fotis Ifantidis; Selena Vitezović and Dragana Antonović; Sanda Băcueț Crișan and Ancuța
Bobînă; Andreea Vornicu-Țerna and Stansislav Țerna; Roberto Micheli) but also new data on the
acquisition and working of various raw materials or specific types of adornments (Columbella rustica
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

shells - Emanuela Cristiani, Andrea Zupancich and Barbara Cvitkusić; wild boar tusk - Ekaterina
Kashina and Aija Macāne; canid tooth pendants - Petar Zidarov). The unbreakable link between
adornments of the everyday life and those of the afterlife it is also highlighted in some of the
contributions.
The following section - Adornments in settlement archaeology - includes nine studies, covering
the archaeological evidence from specific settlement sites. Many studies focused on the
adornments' iconographic designs, meaning, and exchange but also on raw materials, technologies
of production and systems of attachment. Chronology-wise, this section brings together the most
varied range of ornaments, raw materials and processing techniques from sites in Spain (Esteban
Álvarez-Fernández), Turkey (Sera Yelözer and Rozalia Christidou), Greece (Catherine Perlès and
Patrick Pion; Christoforos Arampatzis) and Romania (Adina Boroneanț and Pavel Mirea; Ioan
Alexandru Bărbat, Monica Mărgărit and Marius Gheorghe Barbu; Monica Mărgărit, Mihai Gligor,
Valentin Radu and Alina Bințințan; Gheorghe Lazarovici and Cornelia-Magda Lazarovici; Vasile
Diaconu).
The last section - Adornments of the afterlife - focuses on ornaments identified in various funerary
contexts allowing for a more detailed biography of ornaments through mostly use- and micro-wear
studies, in order to reconstruct their production sequence and use life. Raw material availability and
their properties, as well as contexts of deposition are also taken into account. In the seven studies of
the section, different funerary contexts from Latvia (Lars Larsson), Ukraine (Nataliia Mykhailova),
Hungary (Zsuzsanna Tóth) and Romania (Monica Mărgărit, Cristian Virag and Alexandra Georgiana
Diaconu; Vlad-Ștefan Cărăbiși, Anca-Diana Popescu, Marta Petruneac, Marin Focşăneanu, Daniela
Cristea-Stan and Florin Constantin; Dragoş Măndescu; Lavinia Grumeza) are discussed.
We would like to thank to all contributors who responded to our call and helped us complete this
volume in less than a year. Each paper was submitted to external reviews. Therefore, we would like
to also thank our colleagues who accepted to anonymously review the contributions, thus improved
the overall content of the volume.

The Editors
References
Bar-Yosef Mayer, D.E., Bonsall, C., Choyke, A.M. (eds.) 2017. Not Just for Show: The Archaeology of Beads, Beadwork
and Personal Ornaments. Oxbow, Oxford-Philadelphia.
Bar-Yosef Mayer, D.E., Bosch, M.D. (eds.) 2019. Early Personal Ornaments - Humans' Earliest Personal Ornaments.
PaleoAnthropology 2019.
Baysal, E. 2019. Personal ornaments in prehistory. Oxbow, Books Oxford.
Ifantidis, F. 2019. Πρακτικές Προσωπικής Κόσμησης στη Νεολιθική Ελλάδα / Practices of Personal Adornment in
Neolithic Greece. Archaeopress, Oxford.
Newell, R.R., Kielman, D., Constandse-Westermann, T.S., van der Sanden, W.A.B., van Gijn, A. 1990. An Inquiry
into the Ethnic Resolution of Mesolithic Regional Groupe. The Study of Their Decorative Ornaments in Time and Space.
Brill, Leiden.
Mărgărit, M. 2019. Personal adornments in the prehistory of the Northern Danube area: from aesthetic to socio-cultural
symbol. Cetatea de Scaun Publishing, Târgovişte.
Rigaud, S., d'Errico, F., Vanhaeren, M. 2015. Ornaments Reveal Resistance of North European Cultures to the
Spread of Farming. PLoS ONE 10(4), e0121166. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0121166.
Sciama, L. D. 1998. Gender in the Making, Trading and Uses of Beads. An Introductory Essay. In: Sciama, L.D.,
Eicher, J.B. (eds.), Beads and Bead Makers: Gender, Material Culture and Meaning. Berg, Oxford: 1-46.
Trubitt, M.B. 2003. The Production and Exchange of Marine Shell Prestige Goods. Journal of Archaeological
Research 11(3), 243-277.
Vanhaeren, M. 2005. Speaking with beads: the evolutionary significance of personal ornaments. In: d'Errico, Fr.,
Backwell, L. (eds.), From Tool to Symbols: From Early Hominids to Modern Humans. Witwatersrand University Press,
Johannesburg: 525-553.
Vanhaeren, M.; d'Erico, Fr. 2006. Aurignacian ethno-linguistic geography of Europe revealed by personal
ornaments. Journal of Archaeological Science 33(8), 1105-1128.

8
MIXING AND MATCHING SOCIAL VALUE: PERSONAL
ADORNMENTS MADE FROM HARD ANIMAL MATERIALS
IN THE LATE NEOLITHIC BURIALS OF KISKÖRE-GÁT (HUNGARY)
Zsuzsanna Tóth
Eötvös Loránd University, Budapest, Hungary, zsuzsanna.toth11@gmail.com

Abstract: Kisköre-Gát is a significant site of the Hungarian Late Neolithic Tisza culture. A settlement
and a cemetery with at least 37 graves were found before dam construction works. Excavations were
directed by J. Korek. Altogether, 32 graves were assigned to the Tisza culture and yielded a rich assemblage
of personal adornments made from hard animal materials placed with the deceased in 12 graves. Real and
imitation red deer canines, usually combined with limestone and shell beads, strung together to form
chains decorating the head, neck, breast or waist, were found in eight graves, while Spondylus bracelets
were placed in seven graves. Although the site has been known for decades and scientific publications on
the material is available as well, the finds made from hard animal materials were evaluated on a subjective,
typological basis alone and their manufacturing characteristics and raw material identification have never
been studied in a detailed manner by a specialist. The object biography and construction of these
necklaces based on a low magnification study will be presented in this article.
Keywords: Carpathian Basin, Late Neolithic, burials, worked hard animal materials, raw materials,
manufacturing chain.

The burials from Kisköre-Gát have been


Research history
recently studied by Zsuzsanna Siklósi (Siklósi
The archaeological site itself is situated 2013) and John Chapman (Chapman 2000a)
south-east of the present day village of the from a social archaeological point of view.
same name (Fig. 1). The first burials were
Description of the burials
reported in 1962 by a local teacher, Sándor
Sipos, and were found during dam Remains of 33 individuals were found in 32
construction works. Hereafter, excavations graves. The graves formed smaller groups in-
took place between 1963 and 1966 conducted between and around the settlement features,
by József Korek, prior to the construction connected to the houses (Siklósi 2013: 346,
of the Tisza II dam. Parts of a Late Neolithic Map 25). Graves 7 and 8 were dug into a large
settlement and burials were unearthed during pit and Grave 33 lay at the bottom of a large pit
this work, but it became obvious that previous as well. Moreover, the burials were not
dam construction works during the second disturbed by settlement features, suggesting
half of the 19th century had already destroyed that the location of each grave was marked.
parts of the same settlement and graveyard Neither was there any superposition of the
(Korek 1989: 23). J. Korek uncovered settlement burial pits, also suggesting that during the
features and burials of the Late Neolithic Tisza lifetime of the settlement the place of the
culture, as well as of the Middle Neolithic LBK, graves was known. Tisza culture inhumations
and Gepidic graves. He evaluated the finds in here and elsewhere were always oriented SE-
his dissertation in 1973 (Korek 1973), but the NW.
monographic publication came to light (in In two cases, the age and sex of the
German) only in 1989 (Korek 1989). deceased could not be determined, but the
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

distribution of males to females was balanced and ornaments forming part of the costume.
(Siklósi 2013: Figs. 106-107) both in terms of Mostly mature females and males received
age (61.3% adult, 38.7% subadult: Siklósi 2013: grave goods. The grave goods given to women
136) and sex (29% male, 32.3% female and tended to be more variable and rich compared
36.4% child: Siklósi 2013: 136, Fig. 106-107.). to those of men (Siklósi 2013: 138-139).
The demographic profile of the burials Bone, antler, tooth, shell and clay are the
resembles other Late Neolithic cemeteries basic raw materials of these personal
(e.g. Aszód-Papi földek, Siklósi 2013: 138) adornments, they have different aesthetic and
displaying a representative distribution of symbolic meanings (Choyke 2010) as well, so
children and a balanced sex-ratio. correct identification of the raw material is a
The burials at Kisköre-Gát are all really important issue. Since traditionally
inhumations: the Late Neolithic skeletons lay researchers tend to study in many cases the
supine in an extended position, most of them significance of special, prestige raw materials,
oriented SE-NW. Altogether, 57.6% of the attention was paid to them, which is much less
graves contained grave goods, isolated items true for the hard animal materials.

Figure 1. Geographical setting of the site (black dot).

by an archaeozoologist or specialist of worked


Methods hard animal materials. I aimed to study the
The bead finds were examined again, first finds again to check and, if necessary, correct
without any magnification and with a hand the raw material identifications and to
lens of 20x magnification in the storage rooms describe the manufacturing marks visible on
of the Hungarian National Museum (HNM). the finds and distinguish the usewear traces,
The finds had not been studied or evaluated selecting pieces for further study.

384
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

Beads The most numerous find group among the


grave goods comprises beads made of various
"Beads are commonly defined as being small
raw materials (Fig. 2-4, 7, 10, 13). Stone beads
ornaments perforated through their centers
(limestone or marble) are mixed with shell
and small enough to be worn on the body. Beads
beads made of Spondylus (Spondylus
sewn on clothing, parts of composite body
gaederopus L. 1758) or Dentalium (Dentalium
decoration from anklets, to bracelets, to
L. 1758). Some ornaments, however, were
girdles, to necklaces and to headbands may be
composed of beads made from hard osseous
identical or mixed in their size, shape and raw
materials such as red deer (Cervus elaphus L.
material (Dubin 2009). Beads can be strung in
1758) canines or antler, or beads made from
a series on a thread, sewn individually onto
clay.
clothing, or traded as separate objects that can
All the beads correspond to the Class I
be counted. They can be dismantled from
objects of the manufacturing continuum
garments and body ornaments and shared
described by A. Choyke (Choyke 1997a).
between individuals or given from the living to
The raw material selection is very strict, no
the dead as part of burial ritual. Pendants are a
mixing of raw materials was tolerated. The
type of bead that is perforated at one or both
manufacturing chain may have been shorter
ends rather than symmetrically through the
as in the case of the real red deer canine beads
middle (Kenoyer 1991). They also can be part of
or more complex, as at the small beads made
a series of similar objects strung together on a
of shell, stone or pottery. The final product is
filament of sorts or one of a kind, meant to be
uniform in shape and size. Manufacturing
accentuated in a special way." (Choyke and
marks are only scarcely visible since these
Bar-Yosef 2017)
objects were worn and usewear covers the
surfaces.

Figure 2. Limestone and red deer


canine necklace from Grave 35
(Photo: J. Kardos).

385
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

Stone beads occur in 12 graves. There was a two female and a child’s grave. The paired
single grave (Korek 1989: Pl. 30, 31:4, 41:6) bracelets came from a male burial (Grave 36)
where altogether 44 marble beads were found. and two female graves (Grave 1 and 21: Fig. 4),
The other 11 graves contained limestone while in a male (Fig. 7) and a child’s grave
beads in different numbers. They occurred (Grave 4, Fig. 3) one piece was laid. The
irrespectively of the age or sex of the deceased Spondylus bracelets, similarly to the Spondylus
(Siklósi 2013: Fig. 117). These stone beads were beads, were found concentrated in the
always mixed with Spondylus shell beads, the northern part of the excavated area, (see
limestone beads outnumbering the shell ones. Siklósi 2013: Map 32) excluding grave Group A
Form and shape, as well as dimensions of the and grave Group B on the south.
stone and shell beads, are so similar that the The best parallels were found at Aszód
limestone disc-shaped beads can be regarded (Kalicz 1985; Siklósi 2013, 207), Kenézlő-
as imitations of the beads made from Szérűskert (Kiss 1939: 7, Pl. 1), Polgár-
Spondylus (Siklósi 2013: 140). Csőszhalom (Choyke 2001; Raczky and Anders
Spondylus beads were found in seven 2017), Bodrogzsadány-Akasztószer (Bánffy
graves. They belonged to the small and thin 2008), Hódmezővásárhely-Kökénydomb
disc-shaped bead variety. Only one larger, (Horváth 1987) and Öcsöd-Kováshalom
cylindrical bead was found in Grave 36 (Korek (Kalicz and Raczky 1987).
1989: Pl. 41) together with a Dentalium bead Glycymeris pendants (Gylcymeris
possibly part of a largely Spondylus bracelet. glycymeris L. 1758) were found in two graves.
This grave contained the body of an older man One was found in Grave 21, the richest grave
(46-50 years, Korek 1989: 44) and was rich in from the cemetery, belonging to a 23-37 years
grave goods. The same burial contained a old female (Fig. 4). The pendant formed part
threefold divided shell bead, the only example of the necklace. Three other pieces were found
of this bead type from the site which lay right in Grave 18 alongisde a child of about 8 years
next to the other Spondylus bracelet. The of age (Fig. 6). Two pieces lay by the neck and
small, disc-shaped shell beads were found the third was placed by the pelvic region
mixed with beads made from various raw (Korek 1989: Pl. 25:18, Pl. 26:21). Interestingly,
materials and combined with perforated red although Grave 21 was the richest at the site in
deer canines. Shell beads were only found in terms of grave goods, Grave 18 contained no
the northern part of the excavated area other grave goods at all. These two graves lay
(Siklósi 2013: 141). within different grave groups, so no spatial
Other typical personal adornments include observations can be made.
bracelets and pendants made mainly of Other shell finds (Fig. 8) include a
Spondylus and Glycymeris shell. Altogether, Dentalium (Dentalium elephantinum L. 1758)
8 Spondylus bracelets were found at Kisköre- bead found in Grave 36 and 16 perforated cone
Gát placed in five graves; three graves yielded snails (Conus L. 1758) found in Grave 9. The
two pieces each, and two graves, one piece snails belong to at least two different species
each (Siklósi 2013: 141, Fig. 119). The remaining indicated by their size and form of the shell.
28 graves did not contain this find group. The One of them is the group of cone snails, and
bracelets correspond to the typical Late the other possibly is terrestrial snail (Zebrina
Neolithic type; they are thin with oval cross- detrita Müller 1774). The cone snails were
sections. Perforations connected to repairing sawn off at one end (Fig. 9). The traces of
the bracelets can be observed in several cases sawing are fresh, clearly visible on the cut
(Fig. 5). Deliberate fragmentation and placing surface. The terrestrial snails were then
the fragments into different features were not perforated near the aperture always at the
observed at the site (Chapman-Gaydarska same spot. The manufacturing traces visible
2007). These objects were found in two male, on the perforation edges suggest that they

386
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

were artificial. Both Grave 9 and 36 contained where a necklace made of clay and limestone
remains of 46-50 year-old males. beads combined with animal teeth were found
Grave 9 is outstanding in another way, too. together with the deceased, a woman of 41-45
There were two lake mussel shells found years. This find is not shown in the tables, nor
(Fig. 10) as grave goods, lying by the right is it mentioned in the later evaluation by
upper arm. Another lake mussel shell was J. Korek.
found between the legs of the individual lying There is a single bead, made from red deer
in Grave 6 (Korek 1989: 40) together with (Cervus elaphus L. 1758) antler, mixed among
animal bones. However, J. Korek suggested the clay beads of Grave 9 (Fig. 10). Its form is
that these bones were not grave offerings but cylindrical with rounded edges and a notch in
rather intrusive finds from the Late Neolithic the middle. It resembles two small beads stuck
settlement. This is possible in the case of the together. This single antler bead was
terrestrial snail and the Unio shells as well: combined with the long, tubular clay beads
they might have originally not been placed and the very short and thin disc-shaped
among the grave goods, but were later limestone beads. Some of the other beads in
intrusions from the settlement in connection the same belt display the same central,
to the earthworks. decorative notching as the cylindrical antler
Two graves contained some fired clay bead. Today, most component beads in this
beads as well. Their form is cylindrical, necklace, except for the thin limestone beads,
sometimes divided with notches mainly have different shades of brown, without any
placed around the middle. They occured in the significant colour differences. It is, thus, no
same way as the beads made from any of the surprise that the raw material of the antler
other raw materials and were mixed with bead was previously incorrectly identified
other bead types defined by shape and since it closely resembles that of the other
material. They are not typical for the Tisza beads. It is possible, indeed likely, that the
culture material. However, J. Korek (1989: 56) antler bead together with the limestone beads
suggested they might have been imported were originally much lighter in colour than the
pieces at the Kisköre site. This type of pottery clay beads, thus creating a decorative effect.
bead appeared in two burials. Grave 1 (Korek
Red deer canine beads
1989: Pl. 31:3) belonged to a 23-35 year-old
woman. The bead was placed by the pelvic Perforated red deer (Cervus elaphus L. 1758)
region and was strung together with limestone residual canines played a significant role in the
beads. Additional grave goods from this burial personal adornments of the Late Neolithic in
included two Spondylus bracelets. Grave 9 Hungary. At Kisköre, such beads were found in
(Fig. 10) belonged to a 42-46 year-old man. nine graves. Three graves were containing only
The clay, limestone and antler beads formed two red deer canine beads each, while in the
part of the belt. If we treat these beads as other graves these beads appeared in greater
imitations, it is likely that the dividing notches numbers, with Grave 21 containing 29 (Korek
often visible on the beads played a certain role, 1989: 42, Figure 4), the maximum encountered
symbolizing the aspect of the original raw number. This type of bead never appeared
material and making these clay beads appear alone but was always combined with stone and
like small, disc-shaped shell beads stuck shell beads. In adult male graves, they appeared
together. It must be emphasised though, that in low numbers (according to the observations
this is only a hypothesis. It is common to find made at Polgár-Csőszhalom, Raczky and
beads decorated with notches all over a wider Anders 2017), and in other cases, higher
geographical region and throughout this time numbers were found in female or children’s
period. According to the descriptions, there burials (Siklósi 2013: Fig. 120).
was a third burial, Grave 6 (Korek 1989: 40),

387
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

Figure 3. Offerings from Grave 4. Unusable and unmodified red deer canine beads. A peg-like red
deer canine bead imitation made of animal bone. Spondylus bracelet and limestone beads (Photo:
J. Kardos).

Figure 4. Offerings from Grave 21. The attractive limestone, shell and red deer canine belt, the
Glycymeris pendant from the headdress and the Spondylus bracelets (left and right images of the
last three artefacts are mirrored-images) (Photo: J. Kardos).

388
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

Figure 5. Traces of re-drillings at one Spondylus bracelet.

Figure 6. The Glycymeris pendants from Grave 18 (different views) (Photo: J. Kardos).

389
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

Red deer canine beads are Class I objects as well as in some children graves. The number
based on Choyke’s (1997a) quality of deer canine beads is always low in male
classification. The raw material preference is graves and highest in adult female graves. The
exclusive: the residual canines of red deer. The red deer canine beads are combined in strings
manufacturing chain is simple but very with beads made of other raw materials, such
characteristic. The chaîne opératoire observed as limestone and Spondylus, and often found
at Kisköre corresponds to what has been together with Spondylus bracelets.
observed by me at other Late Neolithic Zs. Siklósi studied the occurrence of red
Hungarian sites. After the extraction of the deer canines in graves during the Late Neolithic
canine from the deer mandible or maxilla, the period (Siklósi 2013: Fig. 182). The best parallels
root’s end was either sawn flat or left in its to the adornments found at Kisköre were in
natural state. The root was then thinned and Grave 12 at Bodrogzsadány-Akasztó (Bánffy
perforated from both sides with a flint tool. The 2008) and Polgár-Csőszhalom (Choyke 1997b,
thinning and perforation left characteristic 2001; Raczky and Anders 2018). At Polgár, both
striations, forming an ovoid depression the excavations by I. Bognár-Kutzián and the
(thinning) and a biconical perforation. In some later excavations of P. Raczky yielded such
cases, mainly at the re-drilled exemplars, the finds. Red deer canines were found in two
inner striations of the drilling are still visible. burials from the 1957 excavation of Ida Bognár-
There are cases where beads that were no Kutzián. Grave 2 was that of a child and
longer usable because the hole was worn contained, according to the publication,
through and could not be renewed, were also bone beads (most probably an inaccurate
placed as grave goods. This custom seems to identification) together with 66 perforated red
represent a special case of recycling as deer teeth (Bánffy and Bognár-Kutzián 2007:
discussed in detail below. 195, 197, Fig. 175, 216). A man was buried in
Red deer canines had special social and Grave 6 (Bánffy anf Bognár-Kutzián 2007: 203,
maybe some economic value, underlined by 205, 217, Fig. 182). Red deer canine beads were
their appearance in hoard finds mainly from found there as well. The new excavations
present-day Romania - such as the 80 between 1988 and 2000 yielded large numbers
perforated canines from Cucuteni-Ariuşd of such combined beaded ornaments (Choyke
(László 1911; Sztáncsuj 2007), the 190 pieces 2001; Siklósi 2013: Fig. 194; Raczky and Anders
from Brad (Ursachi 1991), and the 22 pieces 2017) with many deer teeth as well. Such
from Hăbăşeşti (Dumitrescu 1957), and perforated deer canines were found in 13 graves.
Moldova - the 124 pieces from Karbuna Eight came from burials of women, three from
(Sergeev 1963). In Karbuna bone imitations burials of men and two from child burials. Red
were found together with the real items deer canines were found in largest numbers in
(Chapman 2000b: 117). Some pieces are known the graves of adult women and always in lower
as well from Selevac, Serbia (Russell 1990: Pl. numbers in men and children graves.
14.7a-b) found together with an imitation In Late Neolithic times, the use of
made from antler. perforated red deer canines prospered,
The deer canine beads used as personal indicating the increasing role, appreciation and
adornments at Kisköre had special social value significance of hunting (Siklósi 2013: 223). The
and thus, were worn over many years. Many of use of perforated red deer canine beads in
the beads display heavy wear at the perforation composite necklaces and other ornaments
as well as re-drilling (Fig. 12). Similar usewear concentrates in the northern regions of
has been observed on deer canine beads at Hungary, where they are found in large
other sites. The canines do appear irrespective numbers at multiple sites, chiefly in burials.
of the age and sex of the deceased, although In contrast, they may be found only
mainly in the graves of adult men and women, sporadically in the southern parts of the

390
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

Hungarian Plain (Siklósi 2013: 225). This fragments of bead raw material. The root is
contradiction cannot be resolved by simply shorter than usual and there is no sign of
looking at the archaeozoological data because perforation or root thinning and the break had
red deer bones appear in the faunal been smoothed (Korek 1989: Pl. 35:6-7). Grave
assemblages of both regions so that the 4 (Korek 1989: Pl. 23, Fig. 3) was that of a 2.5-3
population had access to the raw material. The years old child. A Spondylus bracelet, an
proportion of hunting does only slightly armband composed of limestone beads and
expand in this period according to the several separate red deer canines were found in
archaeozoological data (Raczky et al. 2014) the grave. Five of the canines were perforated
but never reaching the subsistence level. Red but were no longer usable as beads because the
deer takes probably rather on a symbolic hole was damaged and no new hole was drilled.
significance, and the finds can indicate rather In some cases, the hole was worn on one side,
an increasing cultural and symbolic pressure. and in other cases, the tooth was broken
Probably the complex position of this animal halfway through the perforation. These latter
and the social narrative connected to it are the pieces do not show traces of having been
reasons women and children may have repaired but were placed with the deceased in
received such ornaments (Choyke 2001). this unusable state. There is a single red deer
The custom of placing personal adornments canine where no perforation is visible at all. It
made of red deer canines, limestone and seems to be an intact and unmodified deer
Spondylus beads already had deep, traditional canine, although the length of the root suggests
roots into the early ALPC, at least on the Polgár that part of it broke off, whether from
Island, a loess-covered lag surface rising above anthropic or natural causes. The final find in
a former floodplain, covering some 60-70 km2 this grave is a peg-like object, a piece of bone
at the outskirts of Polgár, as demonstrated by shaped roughly into the shape of a red deer
other investigations (Raczky and Anders 2018). canine. It may be considered an imitation
although not a very sophisticated one.
Unmodified canines and unusable
canine beads Red deer canine bead imitations
There are burials where unmodified red There were two burials where a unique
deer canines were given to the deceased as bead type was found: imitations of red deer
grave goods. They were not perforated, so we canines. One was made from Spondylus and
cannot call them personal adornments since the other from animal bone.
they were not worn as beads. Most probably the The red deer canine bead imitation found
red deer canines were valued as raw material, in Grave 9 (Figure 7 and 11) was strung in
symbolizing an important wild animal lending between two real red deer canines together
them social and symbolic meaning. Thus, as with limestone beads. Other grave goods such
raw material for beads they were valuable as bracelets comprising small disc-shaped
enough, in and of themselves, to form part of Spondylus and limestone beads, and a
the grave accessories. All the burials where Spondylus bracelet accompany this unique
unmodified deer canines were found were find. An adult male was buried in the grave.
burials of children so the custom of placing The raw material of the imitated red deer
unmodified deer canines as grave goods may canine bead was inaccurately identified by
have been linked to this age group, perhaps as J. Korek (1989: 41, Taf. 35: 3) as one of the red
a symbol of the unfinished nature of a child's deer canine beads from the necklace.
social position? However, the inventory book in the
Grave 28 (Fig. 13) (according to the Hungarian National Museum describes the
inventory book of the HNM, these finds belong find as a Spondylus pendant. Thus, the raw
to Grave 24) the burial of a 9-10 years old child, material seems to have been correctly
contained two possibly broken beads or identified, but not the relevance of the bead

391
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

as a canine imitation. The find was finally 69, Fig. 3.11.). The form is not that close and
correctly identified both in terms of raw not as carefully shaped as that of the Kisköre
material and relevance by Zs. Siklósi (2013: find, but undoubtedly imitates the form of red
141). The piece is not unique, but there are only deer canines. The chosen raw material for the
rare parallels. There is a piece published from imitation is again the highly valued,
Mezőzombor from Grave 49 (Csengeri 2004: prestigious Spondylus shell.

Figure 7. Objects from Grave 9 (Photo: J. Kardos).

Figure 8. Dentalium shell, cone snails and terrestrial snails from the graves.

392
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

Figure 9. Sawn off top of a cone snail.

Figure 10. Large necklace from Grave 9 made from mostly clay beads with less shell beads and a
single antler bead. Detail of the antler bead and a typical clay bead. Two lake mushel shells from
the grave (Photo: J. Kardos modified by the author).

393
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

This piece belongs to the type 2 imitations is common in ornaments of the respective area
according to A. Choyke's definition (Choyke and time period. It was used not only for
2008). The imitated object is made of an pendants but also for pointed objects used as
exceptionally valuable raw material, in our common tools in everyday activities. The Tisza
case the Spondylus shell thus emphasizing the culture burials only very rarely contain such
special value of the original. Both the red deer tools from the daily life. It thus seems certain
canines and the Spondylus shell are prestige that this object is a pendant and not a utensil.
raw materials in the Late Neolithic period.
The red deer canines are accessible in the
Conclusions
Carpathian Basin, contrary to the Spondylus Revising old collections, even though they
shell. These correspond well to the had already been evaluated by many scientists
exceptional social and symbolic value of both with a variety of different views, can be very
raw materials. useful. There is always room for additional
There was another, peg-shaped bone information and discoveries. In this case, the
imitation of a red deer canine found in Grave raw material identification of the individual
4 together with worn, unusable beads recycled beads needed to be revised, especially of those
as grave goods, and an unmodified red deer made from clay and red deer antler, the latter
canine (Fig. 3). The manufacturing striations being a raw material not represented before in
are visible on the object because final shaping the worked hard animal materials used
was carried out by abrasion, although these for personal adornments at the site. The
beads are covered with light usewear, correction of the inaccurate raw material
rounding and polish. This object is not as clear identification of the “ivory” pendant is an
an imitation as the previous one in terms of important step as well for understanding
shape, and belongs to type 1 imitations in Late Neolithic burial customs. Since the
Choyke's system (Choyke 2008), those made assemblage has never been studied previously
of an easily accessible raw material. by a specialist in worked hard animal
The best parallels for the imitated red deer materials, the confirmation of the correct raw
canine beads can be found at Polgár- material identification of the Spondylus
Csőszhalom (Choyke 1997, 2001, 2008) imitation of a red deer canine bead by former
although the propeller-shaped and drop- researchers studying the assemblage from the
shaped beads are morphologically different social archaeological aspect, is a significant
from those uncovered in the Kisköre burials. issue. New meanings were revealed about
the aesthetics and social value of different
The “ivory” object
raw materials of the beads and pendants
Grave 37 (Korek 1989: 44, Pl. 36:4) of a 13-14 (comprising beaded necklaces and
years old child, contained a pendant that ornaments) in the northern regions of the
J. Korek described as being made from ‘ivory’. Great Hungarian Plain. The role of the two
The inventory book of the Hungarian National red deer canine imitations is outstanding,
Museum refers to the object as a bone pendant shedding new light on the different aspect and
made of either boar tusk or ivory. The types of imitations at the time. The imitation
reexamination of the object showed that it was made of a more accessible raw material
made from animal bone, most probably from (Choyke 2008) is more understandable, but
the long bone diaphysis fragment of a large the unique transformation into an even more
mammal. Its cross-section is circular and there prestigious raw material, the Spondylus shell is
is a hole at one end for suspension. The form clearly outstanding.

394
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

Figure 11. Spondylus imitated red deer canine Figure 12. A redrilled red deer canine from
bead from Grave 9. Grave 2.

Figure 13. Finds from Grave 24 with two unmodified red deer canines.

Manufacturing and usewear observations homogeneity shows that a common


always bring additional new data to analyze manufacturing tradition in the treatment of
and think about. In the case of Kisköre-Gát, these beads existed over the northern
the observations on the manufacturing Hungarian Plain. Such manufacturing
striations as well as the usewear traces traditions tend to be quite conservative and
correspond to those observed at other reflect the deep cultural and socio-symbolic
Late Neolithic sites, such as Polgár 6. This connections between settlements in the

395
Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

region. The manufacturing striations living people who laid the dead to rest and
demonstrate a common manufacturing composed the burials.
sequence used to produce the red deer canine, Placing unmodified red deer canines and
shell and limestone beads. Only minor unusable beads into the graves of children is
variations were observed in the production an important issue in the evaluation of the
schemes of these artefact types between Kisköre burials. It is likely that this burial
different sites. The red deer canine bead custom was also practiced over the whole
imitations are so low in number at Kisköre of this geographical area, but represents a
that they are regarded as individual objects, rather neglected, unpublished topic in the
lacking a fixed production sequence. evaluation of such finds. The various bead
Although there are only rare examples of types, nicely strung together and worn as
imitations at Kisköre, the role and questions personal and representative adornments have
raised by imitation and raw material values been prioritized in the study and evaluation of
arise in connection to the worked hard animal the Late Neolithic cemeteries, but the custom
material assemblage found in the burials. The of recycling unmodified canines and unusable
red deer imitation bead made from Spondylus beads as grave goods, although less
is close to the anatomical form of the canine significant, is important.
beads. It is not only an imitation but more a Detailed examination of worked hard
translation into another highly valued raw osseous materials is critical to gain a proper
material (Choyke 2008). Since fresh Spondylus understanding of the social, symbolic,
shells would not have been readily accessible aesthetic and practical place of these objects
in Hungary, the place of production becomes in the lives of people from the past.
a really interesting issue. Since the custom of
placing perforated red deer canines and/or Acknowledgements: The study of several
imitations of such beads into the graves is Hungarian Late Neolithic sites in terms of the
concentrated on the northern part of the Great worked hard animal material assemblages was
part of the research grant NRDIO P121128. I am
Hungarian Plain, it may be assumed that this
grateful to the Hungarian National Museum for
unique object was also produced in this permission to examine these objects in detail.
geographical area. This fact, together with the Erika Pásztor-Kovács and József Puskás were of
find from Mezőzombor, suggests that great help in the research service. András Markó
Spondylus shell and red deer canines were made my study fluent through access to the
socially and probably symbolically valued raw inventory books and guiding the arrangements.
I appreciate the beautiful photographs taken by
materials. They were either interchangeable or
Judit Kardos at the studio of the HNM.
the translation of the red deer canine form Alexandra Anders and Pál Raczky were very
into the Spondylus one emphasized the generous and made it possible to compare
intrinsic value of the former, although red Kisköre with Polgár, the richest assemblage from
deer canines were from our modern point of this period in Hungary. An ELTE-FH mobility
view much more easily accessible raw grant made it possible for me to attend the
materials compared to the Spondylus shells. conference. Last but not at least I would like to
thank Monica Mărgărit and Adina Boroneanț for
The composition of the beads made from
their hard work in organizing the meeting and
different raw materials seems to reflect the taking up the hard task of all duties and patience
individual aspects of the Late Neolithic people necessary to produce this publication.
found in these special burial features.
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Beauty and the eye of the beholder: personal adornments across the millennia

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