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for the expedition were ample for all requirements, but they were
refused tea, sugar, and rum. Starting on a long hazardous overland
journey of unknown duration, the inadequate outfit accorded to
these enterprising men from a steam vessel within a fortnight’s sail
of a commercial port, was unjustifiable, and must be condemned.
The expedition left the Albert on February 8th, 1862, a party of six,
Mr. Landsborough, Mr. Bourne, and Mr. Gleeson, with three
blackboys, Jimmy, Fisherman, and Jacky, and twenty-one horses,
whilst there was a continent to cross before they could reach their
destination. The tracks of Walker’s party were just discernible, as
they followed a course that took them to the Leichhardt River, over
level plains covered with flooded box and excæcaria, commonly
called “gutta percha,” one of the Euphorbia family; these plains are
subject to floods, and are very much water-logged during the rainy
seasons on account of their being so level. The grass grows in great
tussocks, showing only the tops above the water for many miles,
and these were the “Plains of Promise” of which so much was
expected from the reports of the early explorers! They crossed at
the bar of rocks at what is now Floraville, and directed their course
to the Flinders River, eastward through Newmayer Valley, and on
past Donor’s Hills, so named in honor of an anonymous contributor,
a Melbourne gentleman, who gave £1,000 to the exploration fund.
In following the right bank of the Flinders, they passed Fort Bowen,
a small mount rising abruptly from the plains near the right bank of
the river, which was called after the first Governor of Queensland.
Many springs were met with surrounding the base of the little
mountain forming mounds on the top of which water may be found.
The nature of the ground in places is very treacherous; the water
has a strong taste of soda, and is quite undrinkable in some of the
springs. About twenty miles south-east from Fort Bowen are two
similar small mountains, Mount Browne, and Mount Little (now
forming part of Taldora run), at which springs similar to those at Fort
Bowen are also to be met with. These small mountains, the highest
of which is only seventy-five feet above the surrounding plain, were
named by Mr. Landsborough after a firm of solicitors in Brisbane, the
Hon. E. I. C. Browne, and Robert Little. The latter subsequently
became the first Crown Solicitor of Queensland, but both gentlemen
are now dead. The ground in places is dangerous, for under the light
crust, that shakes and bends beneath the weight of a horse, are
depths of soft mud, sometimes of a bluish colour, that would engulf
both horse and rider. One spring is hot, the water at the surface
being 120 deg., evidently a natural artesian well. Heavy tall ti-trees
surround all these mud springs, and also innumerable small mounds
that are the result of the pressure of water from the great depths
below. The whole extent of country travelled through consists of
open treeless plains, covered with good pasture grass, and
occasionally some small white wood trees (atalaya hemiglauca). As
the river ran in the direction they were travelling, they followed it up,
and about where Richmond now stands, they saw the fresh tracks of
a steer or cow making south, supposed to have wandered from
some of the newly-formed stations towards the Burdekin. After this,
the river trending too much to the east, they crossed the divide, thus
leaving the Gulf waters behind them. The change occurs in an open
downs country without any ranges to cross. A watercourse called
Cornish Creek took them to the Landsborough, and following it down
to the Thomson River, they passed Tower Hill, where Mr.
Landsborough had been exploring before, and had left his marked
trees. Travelling southwards, they made for the Barcoo, and thence
to the Warrego, and on May 21st they came to a station of the
Messrs. Williams where they were received in a most cordial manner.
They were now about eight hundred miles from Melbourne, and
seven hundred from Brisbane, and it was decided to make for
Melbourne by following the Darling.
McKinlay and Landsborough on their return were the recipients of a
public demonstration by three thousand people in the Melbourne
Exhibition Building, and had a splendid reception.
Landsborough died on March 16th, 1886, from an accident caused
by his horse falling with him, and he is buried close to the north end
of Bribie Passage at Caloundra, where he had resided with his family
for some years previously. Landsborough was a very honorable and
lovable man, of simple tastes, fond of reading and indefatigable in
his love for travelling about the country.

F. Walker led a party from Rockhampton in search of Burke and Wills


in 1861. He was a bushman of varied experience, and he has the
credit of originating the system of native police in Queensland. He
performed the task of exploration with which he was entrusted
creditably and ably. Starting from C. B. Dutton’s station, Bauhinia
Downs, on the Dawson River, he and his small party went through
the Nogoa country to the Barcoo, where he saw traces of Gregory
and Leichhardt. They then went north-west to the Alice and on to
the Thomson River, and from there on to the head of the Flinders,
which was called the Barkly. A marked tree of Walker’s exists near
the town of Hughenden. Instead of following down the river, he
struck across the basaltic ranges and tableland northwards till he
came to the heads of a river which he called the Norman, but which
is more likely the head of the Saxby River; however, he followed it
down to its junction with the Flinders, where he saw the tracks of
Burke and Wills going down with four camels and one horse;
crossing the river he found the same traces returning. Walker now
went to the Albert River, where he met Captain Norman of the
colonial warship “Victoria” at the depôt there, and obtaining fresh
supplies, he returned to the Flinders. And now commenced a painful
march through the ranges and tableland, so hard on the horses’ feet
that they could be traced along the stones by the tracks of blood
from their hoofs. The men suffered from the seeds of the
speargrass, which penetrated the skin and caused irritation. The
Burdekin was reached, and some fresh supplies were obtained at
Bowen; and then passing through the settled districts to the south of
that town, Walker arrived at Rockhampton early in June, having
been absent about nine months.
He had several encounters with the blacks during his journey—
attacks and reprisals. About 1865, Walker was sent out by the
Queensland Government to report on the best route for an overland
telegraph line to connect the Gulf with Brisbane. On his
recommendation, the line was taken up the Carron Creek by way of
the Etheridge to the east coast at Cardwell, through some very poor
country. He selected this route on account of there being timber
suitable for poles; but as the white ants soon destroyed them, the
line had to be rebuilt with iron poles.
Poor Walker died of Gulf fever in 1866 at a miserable shanty on the
Leichhardt River, close to Floraville, and is buried there. His second
in command on the telegraph expedition was a Mr. Young, who was
subsequently telegraph master at Townsville in 1870. Young was a
fine honorable man, but, unfortunately, he received an injury whilst
in the execution of his duty repairing the telegraph line between
Bowen and Townsville, from the effects of which he subsequently
died, only a few days after his marriage.

A small private expedition, under the charge of J. G. Macdonald,


started from Bowen, on the east coast of North Queensland, in
1864, for the purpose of discovering a practicable route for several
mobs of cattle then being sent towards the Flinders or westward for
the occupation of new country. The party consisted of Mr.
Macdonald, G. Robertson, Robert Bowman, and Charlie, a native of
Brisbane, with seventeen horses, and two months rations. The
starting point was from Carpentaria Downs, on the Einasleigh River,
then the farthest out settlement, the latitude being 18 deg. 37 min.
10 sec. S., long. 144 deg. 3 min. 30 sec. E. The course generally was
westward, following down the Gilbert River, and thence to the
Flinders and Leichhardt Rivers. These they crossed, and then
travelled on to the Gregory, which was followed down to the Albert.
The object of the expedition having been achieved, and the country
deemed suitable for stocking, the party commenced their return
journey, crossing the Leichhardt River at a rocky ford, where the
scenery was beautiful and the site admirably adapted for a head
station. Eventually one was formed there, but was swept away in the
disastrous flood of 1870, when the waters covered all the
surrounding country to a great depth. The journey home was
uneventful, the only occurrence being the finding of the skeleton of
a horse they had left on their outward journey at the Gilbert River,
and which had been killed by the blacks and eaten. The stages made
were somewhat astonishing for an exploring party. The time taken
by the journey outwards and the return was fifty-three days to
Carpentaria Downs, and to Bowen seventy-one days in all; this trip
proves what can be done with a lightly-equipped party, in contrast to
many of the unwieldy expeditions fitted out in the south. Mr.
Macdonald’s favourable report of the country was the direct means
of a good deal of settlement on the Gulf. Mr. Macdonald, in
conjunction with Mr., afterwards Sir, John Robertson, and Captain
Towns, of Sydney, took up many stations on the Gulf waters and
expended large sums of money in stocking them. They also
despatched the first vessel with loading to the Albert, bringing
consigned goods to settlers, as well as supplies for their own
consumption. This vessel was the “Jacmel Packet,” which arrived in
the Albert River from Sydney in 1865, thus leading to the
establishment of Burketown. Sir John Robertson personally visited
the Gulf in 1868, travelling overland from the east coast as far as
Normanton and Burketown, and returning the same way.

Mr. Hann, one of the pioneers of the Burdekin country, was the
leader of a small expedition sent out by the Queensland Government
for exploring and prospecting purposes through the peninsula to
Cape York. The party started from Fossilbrook station, in 1872; they
named the Tate and Walsh Rivers, and then went on to the Palmer
River, after crossing the Mitchell, which they found a strong running
stream. On the Palmer gold was discovered, and the place was
called Warner’s Gully, after Frederick Warner, the surveyor to the
party; this being the first discovery of gold in that country. Travelling
still north, they reached the Coleman River, and visited Princess
Charlotte Bay. They discovered the Kennedy and Normanby Rivers,
taking a few sheep with them as far as this. They then travelled to
the present site of Cooktown, and followed up the Endeavour River
for thirty miles, striking south to the Bloomfield River, where the
dense vine scrubs greatly impeded their progress. On their way back
they passed through some very rough country. So successful an
expedition, made in so short a time, reflects credit on the leader of
the party, who was a thorough bushman, and well acquainted with
the dangers from hostile blacks in such a country. This expedition
resulted in the development of one of the richest goldfields in
Australia; bands of prospectors soon followed on their tracks and
opened up the great alluvial diggings of the famous Palmer
Goldfields, from which nearly £5,000,000 worth of alluvial gold was
won.

W. O. Hodgkinson had been a member of the Burke and Wills


expedition in 1860, and crossed Australia as second in command of
McKinlay’s party in 1862.
In 1876, he led an expedition sent out by the Queensland
Government to explore the north-west country from the Cloncurry to
the South Australian boundary. The party was only a small one, but
the work was well carried out, and the results were satisfactory and
justified the expenditure incurred. They started from Cloncurry,
which at that time, 1876, was already a settled mining township, but
the country west and south was not well mapped out. They crossed
the rolling plains on the Diamantina River, and in their reports
describe life in the far west in its natural aspect, the game of the
country, the vegetation, the spinifex, the awful sand ridges, and all
the details of a journey made at the cold time of the year. The
country, according to the vicissitudes of the season, may be either a
desert or a meadow, for the rainfall is very uncertain. They followed
up the Mulligan River in well-watered country, reaching Mary Lake,
on the Georgina, and then on to Lake Coongi in South Australia. Mr.
Hodgkinson’s expedition was described in a diction not much used
by the old explorers, whose records were made in a matter-of-fact
style, with little attention to effect. Nevertheless, his descriptions are
eminently interesting and life-like, and have a charm for all who like
to read a traveller’s report of an unknown land. Hodgkinson’s name
is commemorated by the goldfield named after him, as well as the
river upon which it is situated.

G. E. Dalrymple led the north-east coast expedition fitted out by the


Queensland Government in 1872. This was altogether a coasting trip
by boats, and led to much information about the high values of the
rich alluvial lands fringing the banks of the rivers which run into the
sea on the east coast of the northern part of Queensland. The
Johnstone, the Russell, and Mulgrave Rivers were named by him, as
well as the Mossman and Daintree. Here was found most
magnificent scenery, and on the Johnstone they discovered some
fine cedar (one tree measuring ten feet in diameter), besides a vast
extent of rich land fit for sugar growing. All these rivers have since
been opened up for cultivation, and sugar-cane, with other tropical
products, has taken the place of dense scrubs that then lined the
banks of these comparatively unknown rivers—although the boats of
the “Rattlesnake” had been into the Russell and Mulgrave Rivers in
1848. The country appeared to Dalrymple to be inhabited by very
large numbers of blacks, and game was to be found in abundance.
The name of Dalrymple is perpetuated in many places on the map of
Queensland. A township on the Burdekin River, as well as several
mountains and other remarkable features, have been named after
George Elphinstone Dalrymple, who was a splendid type of man in
every sense of the word. He was at one time treasurer of the Colony.

A search expedition for Leichhardt was promoted by the ladies of


Melbourne, and although very little is recorded of its work, it has a
melancholy interest from the fact that the leader, a man of great
promise and energy, lost his life in endeavouring to carry out the
task entrusted to him, and he now lies in an unmarked grave on the
bank of a lonely billabong near the Cloncurry River, a few miles from
his brother’s station, Dalgonally.
The expedition was entrusted to Duncan McIntyre, who had found
on the Dugald River, during a private expedition in 1861, two horses
that belonged to Leichhardt’s last expedition. Mr. McIntyre went out
with camels and horses, and formed a depôt camp at Dalgonally
station on Julia Creek in 1865. He went on to Burketown, then just
opened, for the purpose of buying stores; at the time of his visit the
Gulf fever was at its worst, and he took ill and died on his return to
the camp. He is spoken of as a man of high attainments and of large
experience in bushmanship, and his untimely death was fatal to the
objects of the expedition, the leadership of which was assumed by
Mr. W. F. Barnett. A short trip was undertaken by him, in company
with J. McCalman as second in charge, Dr. White, a medical man,
Colin MacIntyre, G. Widish, and Myola, a blackboy. They started with
nine camels, six of which were young ones, ten horses, and stores
for five months. They travelled westward over the Cloncurry to the
Dugald to the camp, marked XLV. of Duncan McIntyre on his first
expedition to the Gulf, the camp where he found the two horses that
Leichhardt lost on his last trip. Near here is the grave of Davy, one of
their blackboys, who died from fever. After travelling over the
country in the neighbourhood for a few weeks, and not having any
fixed plan or instructions, they returned to the depôt camp. The
expedition, which was well equipped, was eventually given up and
the party dispersed. In consequence of the death of the leader, no
notes of his journey were obtainable. The camels remained on
Dalgonally, the property of Mr. Donald McIntyre, for years, and
increased to quite a herd. The ladies of Melbourne sent a handsome
gravestone suitably inscribed to be erected over the lonely grave of
the explorer, but for many years it lay unnoticed on the beach at
Thursday Island, and is probably still there.

The trip of Major-General Fielding to Point Parker is in no sense of


the term an exploring trip through new country, but rather an
exploratory survey for railway purposes through a fairly well settled
tract. Nevertheless, some notes of the journey may be found of
interest.
In 1881, negotiations were entered into between the late Mr.
(afterwards Sir) Thomas McIlwraith, then Premier of Queensland,
and a syndicate called Henry Kimber and Co., to construct a railway
on the land grant principle, between Roma and Point Parker, on the
Gulf of Carpentaria. These negotiations resulted in the formation of
a larger syndicate called the Australian Transcontinental Railway
Syndicate, Limited, which initiated their scheme by making certain
proposals to the Government of Queensland, and sending out
General Fielding to traverse the proposed route in 1882.
The party, under General Fielding’s leadership, started from Roma,
and went by way of Victoria Downs and Yo Yo to Biddenham, on the
Nive, thence by Lansdowne and Barcaldine Downs to the Aramac,
and on to Mount Cornish, delays occurring along the route for
repairs to waggonettes and harness, and for the purpose of
exchanging horses or buying new ones. Following down the Upper
McKinlay, they reached the Cloncurry on October 7th, and were
joined there by the Government Geologist, Mr. R. L. Jack. More
delays occurred here for the want of stores, and it was not until
November 1st that all the members of the expedition reached
Kamilaroi station, on the Leichhardt River; Gregory Downs was
reached on the 7th, and Point Parker on November 15th; the
expedition having camped sixty-seven times. On the night of their
arrival at Point Parker, the natives surrounded the camp at midnight.
There were about a hundred of them, but they left when three shots
were fired over their heads; no one was hurt on either side, and this
was the only demonstration made by the aboriginals.
Point Parker is described as having a very limited area for
settlement, only about 7,000 acres being available. The Government
schooner “Pearl” was waiting here, and after a careful survey of
Point Parker and Point Bayley, they visited Bentinck and Sweer’s
Islands and Kimberley (now called Karumba), at the mouth of the
Norman River. Finally, on November 13th, they sailed up the Batavia
River in the “Pearl” for about forty miles, and explored it still further
in the boats, thence on to Thursday Island on December 4th, 1882.
In General Fielding’s opinion, the country traversed on his route may
be divided into sections; the first part between Mitchell and Malvern
was neither fitted for pastoral purposes nor for agricultural
settlement; thick scrub, bad soil, and poor timber prevailing.
Between the Ward and the Nive, and thence to the Barcoo,
Thomson, and Diamantina Rivers was first-class sheep country,
requiring a good deal to be done in the way of providing water to
enable the country to be fully stocked. The country between the
McKinlay and Fullerton Rivers is subject to flood. Approaching the
mining district of Cloncurry, the country is not so favourable for
sheep, and is better adapted for raising cattle and horses. From the
Cloncurry through the Gregory to the Nicholson River is all good
cattle country, but the grass seed along the banks of the
watercourses, and the flooded nature of parts of the country in the
rainy seasons, render it unfit for profitable sheep-farming. From the
Nicholson to the Gulf at Point Parker, the country is described as
particularly useless. The formation is desert sandstone overlaid with
nodular ironstone conglomerate; the vegetation dense, chiefly ti-tree
scrubs growing upon spuey or rotten ground, together with spinifex,
saltpans, and marshes. Such was General Fielding’s estimate of the
country through which the line was to pass. Captain Pennefather of
the “Pearl” schooner had been surveying the waters between Allan
Island and Point Parker. He was very reticent as to the qualifications
of the place as a port; but looking at the soundings, and the open
nature of the anchorage, coupled with the utterly valueless nature of
the soil surrounding the place for over one hundred miles, the less
said about it as a shipping port the better.
The whole scheme was condemned by Parliament, and the general
election of 1883 returned a majority against the principle of land
grant railways. One of the first reform acts of the new Parliament
was to repeal the Railway Companies’ Preliminary Act. No doubt, had
the scheme been favoured by the people of Queensland, a great
impetus would have been given to settlement by the introduction of
so much private capital into the colony, while the large annual
payment of interest on borrowed money would have been avoided to
a great extent. At all events, there is no transcontinental railway as
yet, and when it does arrive, Point Parker will not be chosen as the
terminus. Mr. Frank Hann, a brother of William Hann, the discoverer
of the Palmer Goldfield, accompanied General Fielding as pilot. Hann
is a first-class bushman, as hard as nails and full of energy. He was
for many years the owner of Lawn Hill, situated on a western
tributary of the Gregory River, but ticks ruined his herd. He is now in
Western Australia.

The first surveyor appointed by the Queensland Government in the


Gulf was Mr. George Phillips, lately the member for Carpentaria. He
surveyed and laid out Burketown, Carnarvon, on Sweer’s Island, and
Normanton, on the Norman River. In company with W.
Landsborough, in 1866, he explored and named the Diamantina and
other western rivers. The former was named after Lady Bowen, the
Governor’s wife, whose Christian name was Diamantina Roma. The
party passed close by the spot where Winton now stands, and by
Kynuna, and from the head waters of the Diamantina they struck
across via the heads of Rupert’s and Alick’s Creeks to Minamere
(then Sheaffe’s), thence to the Flinders, and on to Burketown. There
were no signs of settlement between the Thomson River at Mount
Cornish, and where they struck the Flinders River. Mr. Phillips and Mr.
Landsborough were the first to navigate the Norman River, and they
chose the site for the township.
The writer met this party coming down the Flinders on their way to
Burketown, in which place he had been laid up for several weeks
with the Gulf fever; he was then on his way back to Conobie, more
dead than alive. This was in the early part of 1866.
CHAPTER V.
PIONEERING WORK IN QUEENSLAND.
The narrative of the pastoral industry in Queensland is almost the
history of North Queensland itself. The outward flow of that restless
and progressive industry can be traced from its infancy, when Mr.
Patrick Leslie, of Collaroi, in the district of Cassilis, New South Wales,
moved his stock northwards, and after first exploring the country by
himself and a man named Peter Murphy, placed his sheep in June,
1840, and formed the first station in Queensland on the Darling
Downs (discovered by Allan Cunningham 13 years before). He called
this first station Toolburra, and afterwards selected Canning Downs
station also. The stock consisted of nearly 6,000 sheep, two teams
of bullocks and drays, one team of horses and dray, ten saddle
horses, and twenty-two men, all ticket-of-leave men, pronounced by
Mr. Leslie to be the best men he ever had in his life. The town of
Warwick is built near this classic spot, where first the pioneers of the
squatting industry pitched their original camp. The next to reach the
Darling Downs were Hodgson and Elliott, who occupied Etonvale in
September, 1840. No white man had settled on Darling Downs
previous to Patrick Leslie in 1840. After Hodgson, King and Sibley
were next to hold Gowrie, and these were followed by others, until
in 1844, there were thirty stations formed and occupied in that
district, the stock mostly coming from the Hunter River district of
New South Wales.
In 1843, the first station on the Burnett River was formed by Russell
and Glover who took up Burrandowan, and they were soon followed
by other settlers, occupying all the beautiful country on the Upper
Burnett and Mary Rivers. Here the soil is rich, the surface water
abundant, the climate equal to any in Australia; and thus a rich
territory was added to the young colony.
The names of the early settlers and pioneers of this country are as
well known as the stations they formed. The Healeys of Tabinga
were settled not far from Burrandowan. Over the Brisbane Range,
John Eales, from the Hunter, was the first settler with stock in the
Wide Bay District. The Jones’, of merchant fame in Sydney, were also
among the first over the range at or near Nanango. The course they
followed took them down Barambah Creek to Boonara station.
All the centre of the Burnett district was occupied by squatters
coming by this line, while the upper, or Auburn portion, from lower
down by Burrandowan. Lawless Bros. took up Boobijan; Anderson
and Leslie occupied Gigoomgan; whilst McTaggart, H. C. Corfield,
Perrier, Forster, Herbert W. H. Walsh, Dr. Ramsay, E. B. Uhr, and
others followed soon after.
Following on this, came the occupation of the runs on the Dawson
River, a tributary of the Fitzroy, and onwards to the north and far out
to the great west, where the downs rolled towards the setting sun.
The Fitzroy River, draining an enormous territory, equal to any river
in Queensland, and surpassed by but few in Australia, was gradually
and successfully occupied. Through the brigalow and mulga scrubs,
dense and forbidding, over mountain ranges, stony and steep,
across flooded rivers, and over or around all obstacles, the pioneers
still moved on and took up and occupied runs. Westward to the
Maranoa and Warrego, and northward by the Fitzroy to the Burdekin
and Flinders River, and even over the South Australian borders to
Port Darwin, their mission was carried on, to fill the land with the
outposts of civilisation.
Before 1853, the Archer family were squatting on the Burnett River,
and in that year Charles and William Archer went northward on an
exploring trip during which they discovered and named the Fitzroy
River, and rode over the spot where now stands the city of
Rockhampton, with all its wealth, civilisation, and promise of
prosperity. They started from Eidsvold, on the Burnett, simply with
pack horses and two men, passed from Dalgangal to Rawbelle, and
at the foot of Mount Rannes found the establishment of the brothers
Leith Hay, then the farthest out station. They had some very
troublesome country to penetrate. Besides hilly mountainous ranges,
brigalow and vine scrubs surrounded the base of Mount Spencer,
whose thousand feet of height they climbed, and gave to it its name.
They crossed the Dee, and passed close to the site of the famous
Mount Morgan gold mine. And so on they journeyed to the top of a
range, where the most astounding view lay beneath them.
Through a large and apparently open valley, bounded by table-
topped, pyramidal and dominant mountains, with here and there
fantastically-shaped sandstone peaks, a large river wound its way
towards the sea.
They supposed this river to be the confluence of the Dawson and
Mackenzie, and the sea before them to be Keppel Bay. They
explored the valley of the Fitzroy, which they named after Sir Charles
Fitzroy, they being the first to discover it, and then went on to
Gracemere Lake, a magnificent sheet of fresh water, about two miles
long and three quarters of a mile wide. They rode on till they came
to tidal water in the Fitzroy, and found it a fine navigable stream,
with the tide running strongly up it. Near here they came upon a
large lagoon covered over with a beautiful pink water-lily
(nymphœa), which they called the Pink Lily Lagoon. In the account
of their journey, they described the cycas palm growing with clusters
of round smooth nuts encircling the top as a crown, under the
leaves. After inspecting the country from opposite Yaamba to what is
now known as Archer’s cattle station, and laying it out in blocks,
they returned to the Burnett. These pioneers were looking for new
country, and being perfectly satisfied with the Fitzroy and its promise
of future prosperity, they returned with stock two years later, in
1855, and took legal possession. It was on August 10th of that year
that they brought the first stock on to Gracemere and occupied it as
a run.
In the same year, 1855, the site of the future town of Rockhampton
was examined. The name of the town was chosen by Mr. Wiseman,
Commissioner of Crown Lands for New South Wales, who had been
sent up from Sydney to confirm the Messrs. Archer in the possession
of their discovery. The rocks crossing the river situated above the
present suspension bridge and forming the limit of navigation,
helped to the choice of a name for the new northern town.
Gracemere head station is on the south side of the Fitzroy River, and
is distant seven miles from Rockhampton. Till then, Rannes had
been the outer limit of occupation towards the north, in which
direction settlement was extending. The Archers were a family of
pioneer settlers, several brothers assisting in the enterprise of
opening up country and forming new stations. They were extremely
popular men of high character and attainments; and the name of
Archer will be known as long as Rockhampton exists. Archibald
Archer represented the town and district for many years in the
Queensland Assembly, and acted as Colonial Treasurer in the first
McIlwraith Ministry with credit to himself and much benefit to the
young colony.[B] The Archers may justly be said to be the original
discoverers and actual founders of Rockhampton, for although the
town took its great start on the road to importance from the time of
the Canoona rush in 1858, called in those days the Port Curtis rush,
the site of the town had been made known five years previously by
the Archer Brothers.
[B] Mr. Archibald Archer died early in 1902, in London, at the age of 82.
Mr. Alexander Archer and his wife (a daughter of the late Sir R. R.
Mackenzie) were both lost in the “Quetta,” which foundered near Cape
York.

Amongst the early settlers in the country about Gladstone were the
Landsboroughs, at Raglan Station, James Landsborough, a brother
of the explorer William, living there after taking it up. They held a
run in the Wide Bay district, called Monduran, on the banks of the
Kolan River, a beautiful and picturesque stream of clear flowing
water, with varied patches of dark pine scrubs growing down to the
water’s edge.
William Young, a sturdy self-reliant old pioneer, took up a run called
Mount Larcombe, and held it with sheep. Mount Larcombe can be
seen from the deck of passing steamers close to Gladstone. Mr.
Young was foremost in opening the country between Gladstone and
Rockhampton. He obtained a rough sketch from Mr. Charles Archer
of country they had tendered for, and on going out came across a
large branch of the Calliope which had not been so taken up. This he
chose for his new run, and Mount Larcombe being at the head of the
creek, he named the station after it. He took his sheep from the
Burnett, and settled on his new country on May 29th, 1855. The
reason for those of the advance guard pushing out so far was on
account of the tendering system for runs then in force. By this
system, those who marked out country could hold it unstocked, and
unless a few hundred pounds were paid by them for the right of
actual occupation, the pioneers in search of land had to go out
further. Prospecting thus for new country without any intention of
stocking it, but merely of selling the information and the claim to the
country to any one in search of a run for their stock, became a
regular speculation.
The Wide Bay district only extended as far as Little’s station at
Baffle’s Creek, and on to Blackman’s. When separation took place,
and a new district was declared, those who had tendered for new
country for the purpose of reselling, had nine months allowed them
to stock their country in. Otherwise they were called upon to forfeit
it. Mr. Young had a great deal of trouble from the blacks; they made
a raid on his shepherds, killing several, but afterwards he found
them very useful for minding sheep, etc. At that time, two small
trading vessels handled the trade to Sydney, and from this port Mr.
Young had to get his rations, as well as shepherds. Many of the
latter sent to him were found useless for bush life.[C]
[C] Mr. Young ended his days peacefully in Sandgate in 1899, at an
advanced age.

No. 55117.
Crown Lands Office,
Sydney, 29th January, 1855.
Nos. 2, 5, 11 and 12 of December.
Gentlemen,

I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your tenders


Rockhill, No. 3. (opened on the 4th ultimo), for new runs of Crown Lands in
Bugulban, No. 1. the district of Port Curtis, named in the margin, and I beg to
Gunyah, No. 2. inform you, that the same now await the report of the
Borroran, No. 4. Commissioner of the district, in accordance with the
Regulations of the 1st January, 1848.
I have the honor to be, Gentlemen,
Your most obedient servant,
GEO. BARNEY.
Chief Commissioner of Crown Lands.

Messrs. R. & F. BLACKMAN,


Maryborough, Wide Bay.

This copy of the letter from Colonel Barney to the Messrs. Blackman
regarding the tenders of their runs shows that they were early in the
Port Curtis district, and occupied a run called Warrah, still held by Mr.
F. A. Blackman in 1897. The whole of the Wide Bay district had
become settled with stations, and the necessity for an outlet for
produce and receipt of supplies led to the port of Gladstone being
opened. Among the first to establish a business there was Richard E.
Palmer, who built a wharf and a large wool shed, so that the wool
from Rannes and other stations lately formed could be shipped
away. He then took up Targieni station, near Mount Larcombe, and
lived there for many years. Among the early settlers in the district
about Gladstone were the Bells of Stowe, father and sons, Mrs.
Graham on the Calliope; and Charles Clarke, James Landsborough,
John Forsyth. Edwin Bloomfield held Miriam Vale; Robinson and
Wood had taken up Caliungal; William Elliott passed Gracemere with
sheep, and took up Tilpal in 1857. Ramsay and Gaden held Canoona
run when the gold rush took place in 1858. Mr. A. J. Callan, for some
years member of the Legislative Assembly for Fitzroy, took up
Columbra run. All the surrounding country became parcelled out
among the early arrivals, and settlement began to spread itself into
far-away districts to the north and north-west. Civilisation was
pronounced enough when ladies followed their husbands on many of
the new stations. Raglan was famous for its hospitality as early as
1860, when Mrs. James Landsborough presided, and her numerous
family grew up there.
From Marlborough, a small village on the outward stock route, the
track led out west towards Peak Downs, a beautiful tableland
discovered by Leichhardt. Mr. Stuart, known as Peak Downs Stuart,
took up one of the first runs in 1861 with sheep brought from
Victoria. These sheep were destroyed by order on account of scab
breaking out among them. Mr. P. F. Macdonald and Sydney Davis
were among the earliest settlers on Peak Downs. Mr. William Kilman,
whose name is so well known in the central districts, was one of the
enterprising pioneers of the north. In 1854, when he was twenty-five
years old, he set out on an exploring trip along the Queensland
coast. On that journey, he came to the river on which Rockhampton
now stands, and, passing up the coast, went as far as Cleveland Bay,
where Townsville was founded some years later. He returned to New
South Wales from Cleveland Bay, and in 1856 took up a large tract of
country on the upper waters of the Dawson. It would thus appear
that Mr. Kilman visited the locality of Townsville ten years before Mr.
Andrew Ball came down from Woodstock station to explore the
country.
Captain John Mackay, explorer and pioneer settler, as well as
navigator, discovered Port Mackay in 1860. The history of the
discovery and settlement of the district and town of Mackay is of
interest, showing what individual effort in conjunction with large
experience and great physical fortitude and endurance can
accomplish. Captain Mackay left Armidale on January 16th, 1860,
with a party of seven men and twenty-eight horses, to explore the
north country for runs for stocking purposes; they travelled by
Tenterfield, Darling Downs, Gayndah, and Rockhampton. After
recruiting and refitting here, they started again on March 16th,
passed Yaamba and Princhester, on to Marlborough, where Mr.
Henning was forming a station. They left civilisation behind them
when leaving this place, and bearing to the north-west over the
range, which was very rugged and broken, followed the Isaacs and
travelled on towards the Burdekin. Returning towards the coast, they
found a river they called the Mackay, traced it to the coast, and
having marked trees along its course, they decided to return south,
having been successful in the object of their expedition.
The party now fell sick of fever and ague, a most prostrating malady,
and were reduced to the utmost extremity for want of provisions, for
the sick men were for some time unable to travel. In suffering and
pain, hungry and thirsty, and utterly weary, they started again for
civilised parts. The blackboy, their faithful companion, died on the
journey, while some of the others could scarcely manage to ride. On
returning, they met Mr. Connor, who was forming Collaroy station;
here they remained a few days recruiting, then crossing the
Broadsound Range, they camped with Mr. John Allingham, who was
travelling with stock looking for country, passed Mr. Macartney at
Waverley, and arrived at Rockhampton after an absence of four
months. They tendered for the country discovered in accordance
with the Crown Lands Regulations, and the tenders were accepted
by the Queensland Government, from which date they were allowed
nine months for stocking, failing which, any person putting stock in,
could legally claim the country. In order to obtain some
compensation for the discovery they had made, Captain Mackay got

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