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Tall Plinillimon,
Which I no stomach had to tread upon.
Cwm Elan, 5 or 6 miles from Rhyader, is a very pretty spot, and the
gorge of Cefn Coch is exceedingly striking. Mackintosh says that the
height is not less than 800 ft., and the cliffs are in many parts mural
and quite perpendicular. He declared that, while the cliffs on the left-
hand side of the river are very fine, he had seen nothing to surpass
those on the right. This from a hill traveller of his experience is
remarkably high praise. The writer has only visited these rocks once,
and has never attempted to climb there, nor, indeed, has he ever
heard of anyone else doing so. The Birmingham reservoir is to
submerge several miles of this cwm and the two houses in which
Shelley stayed.
Stanner Rocks are quite near the station of the same name on the
branch of the Great Western from Leominster to New Radnor, and on
the north side of the railway. The material of which they are
composed is superior for climbing purposes to the soft shaly stuff so
common in South Wales, being the same eruptive trap rock which
forms the hills of Hunter, Worsel, and Old Radnor, and has
metamorphosed the surrounding limestone. These rocks narrowly
miss being a good climb. The train from Leominster takes about 50
minutes.
Near New Radnor is a precipice down which Cliffe (1854) mentions
that a gentleman rode, and he also records that another climbed the
fall called Waterbreakitsneck.
IRELAND
Introduction.—Climbing in Ireland, in the sense in which it is
understood in Switzerland, is, of course, unknown, although during a
winter of happily rare occurrence, such as that of 1894-5, abundant
snow and ice-slope work is no doubt obtainable. It would be
accompanied, however, by extreme cold and days of too short a
duration for work.
Nor can Ireland boast of such arenas for cliff-climbing as the Lake
District, or the Cuchullins in Skye. There is no Pillar Rock, no Old
Man of Dearg. But there are ample opportunities for acquiring the
art of mountain craft, the instinct which enables the pedestrian to
guide himself alone from crest to crest, from ridge to ridge, with the
least labour. He will learn how to plan out his course from the base
of cliff or gully, marking each foot and hand grip with calm attention;
and, knowing when to cease to attempt impossibilities, he will learn
to trust in himself and acquire that most necessary of all climbers'
acquirements a philosophic, contemplative calm in the presence of
danger or difficult dilemmas. If the beginner is desirous of rock
practice, or the practised hand requires to test his condition, or
improve his form, there is many a rocky coast where the muscles
and nerves and stamina can be trained to perfection. Kerry and
Donegal are competent to form a skilled mountaineer out of any
capable aspirant. Ice and snow craft is an accomplishment which
must of course be acquired elsewhere.
Much of the best scenery in Ireland is available only to the
mountaineer. Macgillicuddy's Reeks can hardly be appreciated in less
than a week's exploration. Even after three weeks spent amongst
them we have wished for more. Donegal alone requires lengthened
attention, and there a much longer period will be profitably spent.
The climbing described in the following pages was chiefly
undertaken with the object, or excuse, of botanical discovery. All the
mountain experiences, except where the contrary is stated,
represent the personal—usually the solitary—experiences of the
writer. Of roped climbing the author has had no experience outside
the Alps. Being tied up in a package and lowered from a cliff to a
bird's nest, though not climbing, is, no doubt, a feat requiring nerve
and dexterity; but when the nest of the raven, peregrine, or chough
is in view, and ropes and companions are 'out of all ho,' and it
appears improbable such a chance will come again, the eager
naturalist will indeed rejoice that his nerve and dexterity are not
wholly dependent on the comfortable security of a friendly cable
round his waist. To the botanist such accomplishments are even
more essential. A knowledge of rocks—what to trust, what to
mistrust, what to attack vertically (such as granite and quartzose
usually), what to deal with by their ledges (such as limestone often
and sandstone still oftener), what to avoid altogether (such as trap,
chalk, and decomposing basalt), a knowledge of the elementary
principles of guidance under varying conditions of weather—can be
gleaned from the mountain and sea coast cliffs in Ireland, not,
perhaps, to such an extent as to produce an expert, but quite
enough to lay the requisite groundwork of one. Form and condition,
nerve and activity, will develop in company, and with them the love
for the art will grow, and nothing beyond a little local education will
be wanting to enable him to follow upon their arduous undertakings
real proficients in mountain craft. Any words that can induce the
skilled mountaineers of England and Scotland to test the merits of
an Irish welcome, of Irish scenery, and of the bracing combination of
Atlantic and mountain air in the western counties will have been
written to good purpose.