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Two miles further we cross the old bed of the Ouse (containing
now only such scanty waters as the Bedford rivers have left to it) at
Elford, and enter the Isle of Ely. The ramp of the Island, however, lies
two miles further on yet. We climb it by the village street of
Stretham, where the ancient Town Cross still exists, an interesting
and rare feature. It stands hard by the church, which contains various
ancient tombstones, one to Nicholas de Ryngestone, rector under
Edward the First, and a late fifteenth century brass to Dame Joan
Rippingham, mother of two other rectors. A later rector was ejected
in 1644 "for having made new steps to the altar, himself bowing twice
as he went up, and as often while he came down." The church was
an ancient possession of Ely, but was reft from the See by Elizabeth.
Stretham lies at the extreme end of the little peninsular ridge on
which Wilburton and Haddenham stand.[204] Beyond it we sink to the
enclosed inlet of Grunty Fen, passing the hamlet of Little Thetford,
and rise again to the higher ground where the towers of Ely greet our
eyes, a little over a mile away.
Cottage at Rampton.
After leaving Waterbeach our road has diverged widely from the
Cam. Those who have followed the river course, either by boat or by
the towing-path, will be rewarded by finding themselves, in course of
time, at Upware, the tiniest and most sequestered of hamlets, where
the wide Fens spread all around, bare, treeless, houseless, open to
the sweep of every breeze, and giving the same delicious sense of
space as a sea view. The whole atmosphere breathes remoteness,
the very inn calls itself "Five Miles from Anywhere." But, though wide,
the view is not like a sea view, boundless. The Island of Ely limits it
to the north-west, and to the south-east the nearer uplands of East
Anglia. For here is the nearest point on the Cam to Reach, the little
hamlet once so important an emporium, where the Devil's Dyke runs
down to the Fen.[205] To Upware, accordingly, there was cut through
the sedge and peat, at some time beyond memory, the long straight
waterway of Reach Lode, whereby even sea-going ships were able to
discharge their cargoes on Reach Hithe. At a later date, but as early
as the twelfth century, Burwell Lode was led to the same outlet.
Those to Swaffham and Bottisham come in somewhat higher up the
river.
Dovecote at Rampton.
A mile to the east of Upware we can see how mighty a task those
men of old undertook who cut these lodes through the primæval
jungle. For here is that Wicken Fen, which we have already spoken
of,[206] where a square mile of that jungle is preserved in its
primæval condition, and where (in all but the old bird life) the fauna
and flora of the old Fenland may still be studied in their old
environment; where the peat is still spongy under your foot, and the
tall crests of the reeds rise high above your head. To dig out masses
of that spongy peat, to cut through miles of those tall reeds would be
no light business even with our own modern means of excavation.
What must it have been to the rude implements of the ancients?
The Quay, Ely.
Some two miles beyond Upware the Cam falls into the Ouse, and
the united stream sweeps past Thetford and round the corner of the
island to Ely, where the Cutter Inn (near the railway station) makes a
good landing-place.
CHAPTER XIV
King Anna was a devout man, who himself died a hero's death,
fighting for the Cross and for his country against the overwhelming
onset of Penda, the heathen King of Mercia, who made it the object
of his life to stamp out English Christianity. But, though Anna fell, his
cause triumphed. Penda shortly died, and his work perished with him.
Not so Anna's. After his death the tide of Christian progress ran the
stronger; and all over England it was through members of his family
that it was specially championed.
For two hundred years after the death of the foundress, the abbey
of monks and nuns went on with its pious works and ways. Then, in
870, appeared the Danes, still pagans; and after working their way
through Yorkshire and Lincolnshire, where they "wasted with fire and
sword all that ever they came to, they brake down all the abbeys of
the fens; nor did Ely, so famous of old, escape." Having laid waste
Peterborough, then known as Medhampsted, they came across the
fens to Ely. The abbey and all the buildings pertaining to it were
burnt; the monks and nuns put to the sword. Before setting fire to
the buildings the Danes had secured for themselves all they
contained of value, and great was the store, for the people of the
neighbourhood had brought their goods into the monastery as to a
place of safety. All was seized by the invaders, and what they could
not carry away they destroyed. Thus Etheldreda's Abbey, after lasting
200 years, was left a deserted ruin; but her coffin of stone escaped
without injury. One of the depredators, indeed, is said to have made
an attempt to break into it, with the result that his eyes started from
his head, and then and there he died, as the chronicler relates. The
ancient sarcophagus had proved worthy of its trust.
The hour was one of direst need; for all England lay spent and
gasping beneath the bloodstained feet of the heathen pirates. But,
with the need, there arose the deliverer. In 871, the year after the
sack of Ely, Alfred the Great, "England's darling," succeeded to the
kingship of the exhausted realm; and the life and death struggle
entered on its last and most desperate phase. For one moment even
he seemed to go under, and was driven to an outlaw life in the
marshes of Athelney; the next, we see him shattering the invaders by
his miraculous victory of Ethandune, and, with incomparable state-
craft, negotiating that Peace of Wedmore, whereby the Danes had to
acknowledge him as their Overlord.
With the accession, in 958, of the great Edgar, the first English King
to be Emperor of all Britain, the monarch who, nearly a thousand
years ago, gained for himself, as but one of our kings has done since,
the title of "Peacemaker," brighter days dawned. Then, as now, the
Catholic Church might have been well called "Cette éternelle
recommenceuse," able to rise from her ashes with life renewed. From
the havoc wrought by the Danes, the Abbey of Ely, as a Benedictine
House, arose once more, rebuilt, refounded, and re-endowed by King
Edgar, who restored to it by Royal Charter all that Etheldreda had
originally bestowed; adding thereto several demesnes and sundry
privileges. The re-constitution of the Abbey was carried out under the
guidance of Ethelwold, Bishop of Winchester.
The monks were thus restored; but the nuns of Ely have
disappeared from view. As for those secular priests who were in
possession and had maintained the sacred character of the spot for
well-nigh a hundred years, ever since its devastation by the Danes,
they were allowed to stay on if they submitted to the Benedictine
Rule, otherwise they were dismissed.
In the year 991 the restored Abbey becomes connected with one of
the most stirring poems of the English language, the "Song of
Maldon." The Danish invasions, which had been checked for a
century by the glorious line of monarchs who inherited King Alfred's
blood and energy, were beginning again. One of these pirate hordes
had landed in East Anglia, now no longer a separate principality but
merely a district of the United Kingdom of England, governed by an
"Alderman" named Brithnoth. Ethelred, surnamed the Unready, was
on the throne—a King who for his lack of good judgment well
deserved this contemptuous sobriquet—and his want of energy and
capacity threw on to the shoulders of his subordinates the burden of
the defence of his realm.
The Danes at once make their way across the river and attack the
English levies:
"Then drave from each hand
Full starkly the spear,
Showered the sharp arrows,
Busy were bows,
Shield met shaft,
Bitter the battle."
In the end the pirates are driven back to their ships, but at the cost
of Brithnoth's own life. He is pierced by a spear, and sinks dying to
the ground; to the last exhorting his soldiers to fight on, and
commending his own soul to God in the following beautiful and
touching lines:
"To Thee give I thanks,
Thou Lord of all living,
For all good hap
In this life here.
Sore need I now,
O Maker mild,
That Thou should'st grant
My spirit grace;
That my soul to Thee
May depart in peace,
And flee to Thy keeping,
Thou King of Angels.
To Thee do I pray
That the Gates of Hell
Prevail not against me."
West Aisle of the North Transept, Ely.
The Danes carried off Brithnoth's head; but his body was rescued;
and, according to his wish, the monks came and brought it back to
Ely, where the Abbot buried it, replacing the missing head by one of
wax. During the eighteenth century the skeleton was met with in the
course of some excavations and recognised as Brithnoth's by the
absence of the skull. It now lies in Bishop West's beautiful chapel,
along with the bones of other Anglo-Saxon worthies.
This was in the summer-time,[209] when the waters were open; but
not seldom Canute made his visits in the depth of winter, when, on
the Feast of the Purification, the Abbot of Ely each year entered on
his Chancellorship of the realm, an office which he shared in turn
with the Abbots of Canterbury and Glastonbury, each holding this
office for four months at a time. The legend may well be true, which
tells how, on one of these mid-winter visits, Canute reached Ely (from
Soham)[210] in a sledge, preceded by the heaviest man that could be
found (characteristically nick-named "Pudding"), who skated ahead of
the King to ensure the ice would bear. On another occasion Canute
was accompanied by his wife Queen Emma, and she, in token of her
regard for the Abbey, left behind, as her gift, splendid hangings for
the church, and for the shrine of the foundress. An altar frontal of
green and red and gold, and a shrine cover of purple cloth, bedecked
with gold and jewels, are described as being of exceptional beauty
and value, "such as there was none like to them in richness
throughout all the realm."
This was not Emma's first connection with Ely. While she was yet
the second wife of Ethelred the Unready (after whose death she
married the victorious Canute), her younger son, Edward, afterwards
King Edward the Confessor, had here been presented in infancy at
the altar, and had been in childhood a pupil of the choir school,
where his special proficiency in learning psalms and hymns gave
promise of his future saintliness. The Ely choir school was, at this
time, probably the most noted educational institution in England, and
was under the direction of the Precentor, who had general charge
over all the literary work of the house, such as the reproducing of
books, etc. That this precocious scholar, who left Ely at nine years
old, ultimately came to the throne, while Alfred, his elder brother, did
not, is due to one of the most ghastly tragedies of English history.
With the Norman invasion, Ely again becomes a centre of war. Led
by Christian the Bishop, and Osbiorn the Earl, a force of Danish
adventurers had appeared in the Humber, professing to be the allies
of the English in their struggle with the Normans. Their real object
was to place their own King Sweyn, the nephew of Canute, on the
throne of England, and, if foiled in this purpose, at least to enrich
themselves with England's plunder. After partaking in scenes of
devastation in Yorkshire, they sailed southward till they reached Ely,
where they took up their quarters. Here the fenland folk forgathered
with them, for the Norman was a more thoroughgoing oppressor
than any Dane; and, in especial, the "strenuous" outlaw Hereward
"the Wake" joined them "with his gang."
And had there been a second Alfred this might well have actually
come to pass. As it was, many of the magnates who could not brook
submission retired to the "Camp of Refuge," as the Island of Ely now
got to be called. This fastness, being surrounded on all sides by deep
fens "as by a strong wall," promised them a sure retreat, and for a
while enabled them to baffle all the efforts even of the mighty
Conqueror to subdue them. Thither came Archbishop Stigand
(deposed by the Conqueror to make way for the great Lanfranc);
thither came the Abbot of St. Albans, thither came the valiant
Ethelnoth, Bishop of Durham; thither came Morcar, the last Earl of
Northumbria, "with many a hundred more," both clergy and laity.
Here they received shelter and hospitality from Thurstan, the last of
the English Abbots of Ely.
Perplexed and almost daunted, William, with his court and army,
retired for a time to Brandon in Suffolk; while the refugees at Ely
spent stirring days. The knights and churchmen were hospitably
entertained in the refectory of the abbey, every man with his shield
and lance hanging near him, to be ready in case of sudden alarm.
Their days were diversified by raids into the surrounding country
beyond the fens, to snatch what provisions they could for their
fastness; and these raids of the islanders were so dreaded
throughout the district, that its inhabitants were thankful for the
protection of William's soldiery.