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Formulation Guide

Synoxyl® AZ
Synoxyl® AZ
(INCI - Acetyl Zingerone)
Acetyl Zingerone (AZ) is a multi-targeted antiaging molecule de-
signed to counteract aging before it happens and to reverse key signs
of photo-damaged skin. AZ prevents skin damage and nurtures skin’s
own ability to maintain the integrity of the ECM for optimal health
and appearance throughout life. Key attributes: (1) Omni Antioxidant-
scavenges/quenches reactive species & selectively chelates iron – First-
in-the Industry; (2) Reduces both immediate & delayed skin damage
(↓CPDs) First-in-the Industry; (3) Photochemically stable antioxidant
in contrast to many conventional antioxidants; (4) Placebo controlled
clinical studies revealed significant improvement in skin defense & re-
duction in wrinkle, pigmentation and skin redness in photo-aged skin
without using sunscreens; (5) Balances skin microbiome diversity and
stimulates skin friendly Staph. epidermidis by >20%.

Synoxyl® AZ thus provides a translational step forward towards


development of a more efficacious molecule to treat or prevent the
consequences of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging. It has a purity of ≥
99%, colorless with a slight characteristic vanilla-type odor.

Formulation Guidelines
The material is lipophilic in nature and suitable for all types of skin
care applications including sunscreen products. In formulated sys-
tems, Synoxyl® AZ does not impart any color change over time.

• For daily skin protection and anti-aging applications, use levels


of 0.5-1% are recommended. As a chelating agent, use level is 0.1
to 0.2%.
• Formulation pH must be maintained in the acidic range (≤6.5).
• Synoxyl® AZ is highly soluble (>20%) in quite a few solvents/sol-
ubilizers (see table below). The material should be pre-solubilized
in the emollient phase with slight heating, in order to avoid crys-
tallization in formulation over time.
• Solution of Synoxyl® AZ should be added to the formulation,
post-emulsification, preferably below 50ºC.
• Synoxyl® AZ is fully compatible with a wide range of emulsifiers,
non-ionic and anionic emulsifiers as well as thickening agents
and polymeric film formers.

Synoxyl® AZ Solubility Profile


Solubilizers % Solubility of AZ

Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol >25

Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Ethanol, Propylene


Carbonate, Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate and Di- >20
Propylene Glycol (2:1)

Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate >15


Whipped Anti-Aging Moisturizer with Synoxyl® AZ and HydraSynol® DOI
Formulation#RC-02-61.02

INCI name Trade Name/Supplier % w/w


Phase A
Water 74.30

Glycerin Glycerin/Acme-Hardesty 3.00

Butylene Glycol Jeechem Bugl/Jeen 3.00

Ethylhexylglycerin & Caprylyl Glycol Sensiva SC 10/Schülke 1.00

Phase B
Xanthan Gum Vanzan NF/Vanderbilt 0.20

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer & Lecithin Lecigel/Lucas Meyer 0.50

Phase C
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Jeechem CTG/Jeen 5.00

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Shebu Refined/Rita 1.00

Ceteareth-20 & Cetearyl Alcohol Ritapro 300/Rita 2.50

PEG-100 Stearate & Glyceryl Stearate Protachem GMS-165/Protameen 1.50

Beeswax Beeswax/Koster Keunen 1.50

Cetyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol/Protameen 1.00

Isosorbide Dicaprylate HydraSynol DOI/Sytheon


®
2.00

Phase D
Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate Dermol DPG-2B/Alzo 2.00

Acetyl Zingerone Synoxyl AZ/Sytheon


®
0.50

Total 100.00

Procedure:
Weigh Phase A in the main kettle equipped with a homogenizer. Sprinkle in Phase B. Once dispersed,
heat to 70º-75ºC. Weigh Phase C in a side kettle equipped with a propeller mixer. Heat to 75º-80ºC.
Once both phases are at the proper temperature, add Phase C to Phase AB. Mix for 15-20 minutes.
Switch to side sweep mixing and cool to 45ºC. Weigh Phase D in a side kettle and heat to 45ºC. Mix
until all solids are dissolved. Add Phase D to Phase ABC when it has reached 45ºC. Finish cooling the
batch to room temperature.

Notes:
pH value: 5.0-5.5; Viscosity: Spindle-TF, S96; Speed-0.3 rpm; Range-1,000,000-2,000,000 mPas
Rapid Dark Spot Corrector with Synoxyl® AZ, Synovea® HR & HydraSynol® DOI
Formulation#RC-03-94.02

INCI name Trade Name/Supplier % w/w


Phase A
Water 71.70

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate Natrlquest E30/Innospec 0.10

Glycerin Glycerin/Acme-Hardesty 3.00

Tromethamine Tris Amino/Angus 0.20

Ethylhexylglycerin & Caprylyl Glycol Sensiva SC 10/Schülke 1.00

Phase B
Xanthan Gum Vanzan NF/Vanderbilt 0.20

Carbomer Carbopol Ultrez 10/Lubrizol 0.30

Phase C
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Cetiol LC/BASF 5.00

Isoamyl Laurate Dermofeel Sensolv/Dr. Straetmans 2.50

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Shebu Refined/Rita 1.00

Ceteareth-20 & Cetearyl Alcohol Ritapro 300/Rita 2.50

Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate Olivem 1000/Hallstar 2.00

Cetyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol/Protameen 1.50

Isosorbide Dicaprylate HydraSynol® DOI/Sytheon 3.00

Phase D
Butylene Glycol Jeechem Bugl/Jeen 5.00

Hexylresorcinol Synovea® HR/Sytheon 0.50

Acetyl Zingerone Synoxyl® AZ/Sytheon 0.50

Total 100.00

Procedure:
Weigh Phase A in the main kettle equipped with a homogenizer. Sprinkle in Phase B. Once dispersed,
heat to 70º-75ºC. Weigh Phase C in a side kettle equipped with a propeller mixer. Heat to 75º-80ºC.
Once both phases are at the proper temperature, add Phase C to Phase AB. Mix for 15-20 minutes.
Switch to side sweep mixing and cool to 45ºC. Weigh Phase D in a side kettle and heat to 45C. Mix
until all solids are dissolved. Add Phase D to Phase ABC when it has reached 45ºC. Finish cooling the
batch to room temperature.

Notes:
pH value: 5.0-5.5; Viscosity: Spindle-TF, S96; Speed-0.3 rpm; Range-2,000,000-3,000,000 mPas
Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Oil, SPF-30+ with Synoxyl® AZ & Synoxyl® HSS
Formulation#RC-02-56B.02

INCI name Trade Name/Supplier % w/w


Phase A
Octyldodecanol Eutanol G/BASF 29.50

Diisobutyl Adipate DIBA Special/Hallstar 10.00

Dicaprylyl Ether Cetiol OE/BASF 15.00

Isoamyl Laurate Dermofeel Sensolv/Dr. Straetmans 10.00

Isosorbide Dicaprylate HydraSynol® DOI/Sytheon 4.00

Phenethyl Benzoate X-Tend 226/Ashland 10.00

Acetyl Zingerone Synoxyl® AZ/Sytheon 1.00

Phase B
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Escalol 517/Ashland 3.00

Trimethoxybenzylidene Pentanedione Synoxyl® HSS/Sytheon 2.50

Homosalate Escalol HMS/Ashland 10.00

Octyl Salicylate Escalol 587/Ashland 5.00

Total 100.00

Procedure:
Weigh Phase A in the main kettle equipped with a propeller mixer. Heat to 75ºC. Mix until all solids are
dissolved. Weigh Phase B in a side kettle and heat to 80º-85ºC. Mix until all solids are dissolved. Add
Phase B to Phase A. Mix until uniform. Cut the heat and cool to room temperature on the propeller
mixer.
Sunscreen Stick with Synoxyl® AZ and HydraSynol® DOI
Formulation#RC-03-140.01

INCI name Trade Name/Supplier % w/w


Phase A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Jeechem CTG/Jeen 28.90

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Coconut Oil/Protameen 10.00

Behenyl Alcohol Lanette 22/BASF 3.00

Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax Yellow Carnauba Wax NF/Koster Keunen 4.00

Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Candelilla Wax NF/Koster Keunen 10.00

Homosalate Jeescreen HMS/Jeen 10.00

Octyl Salicylate Jeescreen OS/Jeen 5.00

Octocrylene Jeescreen OC/Jeen 3.00

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Parsol 1789/DSM 3.00

Jojoba Esters Floraesters 15/FloraTech 15.40

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Shebu Refined/Rita 5.00

Phase B
Isosorbide Dicaprylate HydraSynol® DOI/Sytheon 2.00

Acetyl Zingerone Synoxyl® AZ/Sytheon 0.70

Total 100.00

Procedure:
Weigh Phase A in the main kettle equipped with a propeller mixer. Heat to 80º-85ºC. Weigh Phase B
in a side kettle equipped with a stir bar. Heat to 70ºC. Mix until all solids are dissolved. When both
phases are at the proper temperature, add Phase B to Phase A. Mix for 10-15 minutes. Pour samples
into sticks at 75ºC.
Rapid Fine Line & Wrinkle Eraser Cream with Synoxyl® AZ & Sytenol® A
Formulation#RC-03-93.02

INCI name Trade Name/Supplier % w/w


Phase A
Water 73.80

Glycerin Glycerin/Acme-Hardesty 2.00

Tromethamine Tris Amino/Angus 0.20

Ethylhexylglycerin & Caprylyl Glycol Sensiva SC 10/Schülke 1.00

Phase B
Xanthan Gum Vanzan NF/Vanderbilt 0.20

Carbomer Carbopol Ultrez 10/Lubrizol 0.30

Phase C
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Jeechem CTG/Jeen 5.00

Isoamyl Laurate Dermofeel Sensolv/Dr. Straetmans 2.50

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Shebu Refined/Rita 1.00

Ceteareth-20 & Cetearyl Alcohol Ritapro 300/Rita 2.50

Glyceryl Stearate Protachem GMS-D/Protameen 1.50

Stearic Acid Stearic Acid/Protameen 1.50

Cetyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol/Protameen 1.00

Isosorbide Dicaprylate HydraSynol® DOI/Sytheon 3.00

Bakuchiol Sytenol® A/Sytheon 1.00

Phase D
Butylene Glycol Jeechem Bugl/Jeen 3.00

Acetyl Zingerone Synoxyl® AZ/Sytheon 0.50

Total 100.00

Procedure:
Weigh Phase A in the main kettle equipped with a homogenizer. Sprinkle in Phase B. Once dispersed,
heat to 70º-75ºC. Weigh Phase C in a side kettle equipped with a propeller mixer. Heat to 75º-80ºC.
Once both phases are at the proper temperature, add Phase C to Phase AB. Mix for 15-20 minutes.
Switch to side sweep mixing and cool to 45ºC. Weigh Phase D in a side kettle and heat to 45ºC. Mix
until all solids are dissolved. Add Phase D to Phase ABC when it has reached 45ºC. Finish cooling the
batch to room temperature.

Notes:
pH value: 6.0-6.5; Viscosity: Spindle-TF, S96; Speed-0.3 rpm; Range-2,000,000-3,000,000 mPas
24/7 Age Defying Cream with Synoxyl® AZ & HydraSynol® DOI-Clinically Tested
Formulation#RC-02-53B.01

INCI name Trade Name/Supplier % w/w


Phase A
Water 78.70

Glycerin Glycerin/Acme-Hardesty 3.00

Ethylhexylglycerin & Caprylyl Glycol Sensiva SC 10/Schülke 1.00

Phase B
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer & Lecithin Lecigel/Lucas Meyer 0.80

Phase C
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Jeechem CTG/Jeen 4.00

Steareth-10 Steareth-10/Jeen 1.00

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Shebu Refined/Rita 1.00

Ceteareth-20 & Cetearyl Alcohol Ritapro 300/Rita 2.50

Isostearyl Lactate Ritalac IL/Rita 1.50

Dimethicone DC 200, 50cst/Dow Corning 0.50

Cetyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol/Protameen 1.00

Phase D
Isosorbide Dicaprylate HydraSynol® DOI/Sytheon 4.00

Acetyl Zingerone Synoxyl® AZ/Sytheon 1.00

Total 100.00

Procedure:
Weigh Phase A in the main kettle equipped with a homogenizer. Sprinkle in Phase B. Once dispersed,
heat to 70º-75ºC. Weigh Phase C in a side kettle equipped with a propeller mixer. Heat to 75º-80ºC.
Once both phases are at the proper temperature, add Phase C to Phase AB. Mix for 15-20 minutes.
Switch to side sweep mixing and cool to 45ºC. Weigh Phase D in a side kettle and heat to 45ºC. Mix
until all solids are dissolved. Add Phase D to Phase ABC when it has reached 45ºC. Finish cooling the
batch to room temperature.

Notes:
pH value: 6.0-6.5; Viscosity: Spindle-TF, S96; Speed-0.3 rpm; Range-1,000,000-2,000,000 mPas
Elegant Milky Serum with Synoxyl® AZ and Sytenol® A
Formulation#RC-03-144.01

INCI name Trade Name/Supplier % w/w


Phase A
Water 87.90

Glycerin & Glyceryl Polyacrylate Lubrajel II XD/Ashland 4.00

Caprylyl Glycol & Phenoxyethanol & Hexylene Glycol Jeecide Cap-2/Jeen 1.00

Polysorbate 20 Ritabate 20/Rita 1.00

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate Natrlquest E30/Innospec 0.10

Phase B
Isostearyl Alcohol & Butylene Glycol Cocoate & Ethylcellulose Emulfree CBG/Gattefosse 0.50

Backuchiol Sytenol® A/Sytheon 1.00

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Coconut Oil/Protameen 1.00

Phase C
Polyacrylamide & C13-14 Isoparaffin & Laureth-7 Sepigel 305/Seppic 1.00

Phase D
Acetyl Zingerone Synoxyl® AZ/Sytheon 0.50

Butylene Glycol Jeechem Bugl/Jeen 2.00

Total 100.00

Procedure:
Weigh Phase A in the main kettle equipped with a homogenizer. Weigh Phase B in a side kettle and
mix until uniform. Add to Phase A. Mix for 10-15 minutes. Add Phase C to Phase AB. Mix for 5-10
minutes. Weigh Phase D in a side kettle and heat to 40ºC. Mix until all solids are dissolved. Add to
Phase ABC. Mix until uniform.

Notes:
pH value: 5.0-5.5; Viscosity: Spindle-TE, S95; Speed-0.3rpm; Range-50,000-100,000 mPas
After Sun Rejuvenating Cream with Synoxyl® AZ, Sytenol® A & HydraSynol® DOI
Formulation#RC-03-163.01

INCI name Trade Name/Supplier % w/w


Phase A
Water 65.30

Glycerin Glycerin/Jeen 4.00

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate Natrlquest E30/Innospec 0.10

Sodium PCA Sodium PCA/Rita 1.00

Polysorbate 20 Ritabate 20/Rita 1.00

Tromethamine Tris Amino/Angus 0.20

Phenoxyethanol & Caprylyl Glycol & Potassium Sorbate &


Jeecide Cap-5/Jeen 1.00
Hexylene Glycol

Phase B
Xanthan Gum Keltrol CG/CP Kelco 0.15

Carbomer Carbopol Ultrez 10/Lubrizol 0.25

Phase C
Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate Olivem 1000/Hallstar 2.50

Coconut Alkanes Vegelight 1214LC/Grant 2.00

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Coconut Oil/Protameen 4.00

Dicaprylyl Carbonate Cetiol CC/BASF 5.00

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Cetiol LC/BASF 2.50

Cetearyl Alcohol Protachem CS-50/Protameen 3.50

Bakuchiol Sytenol® A/Sytheon 0.50

Isosorbide Dicaprylate HydraSynol® DOI/Sytheon 2.00

Phase D
Butylene Glycol Jeechem Bugl/Jeen 4.00

Acetyl Zingerone Synoxyl® AZ/Sytheon 1.00

Total 100.00

Procedure:
Weigh Phase A in the main kettle equipped with a homogenizer. Sprinkle in Phase B. Once dispersed,
heat to 70º-75ºC. Weigh Phase C in a side kettle equipped with a propeller mixer. Heat to 75º-80ºC.
Once both phases are at the proper temperature, add Phase C to Phase AB. Mix for 15-20 minutes.
Switch to side sweep mixing and cool to 45ºC. Weigh Phase D in a side kettle and heat to 45ºC. Mix
until all solids are dissolved. Add Phase D to Phase ABC when it has reached 45ºC. Finish cooling the
batch to room temperature.

Notes:
pH value: 5.0-5.5; Viscosity: Spindle-TE S95, Speed-0.3rpm, Range-300,000-500,000 mPas
Sytheon Ltd.
315 Wootton Street, Boonton, NJ 07005, USA
www.sytheonltd.com • info@sytheonltd.com
Tel.: +1 973.988.1075

Sytheon SARL
88 Avenue du Général Leclerc, 92100 Boulogne Billancourt, France
www.sytheonltd.com • sytheon@sytheonltd.com
Tel.: +33 (0)1.4110.8182

Disclaimer
The information given and the recommendations made herein are based on our research and literature search and are believed to be accurate but no guarantee of their accuracy is made. This
information is intended to be helpful, but no warranty is expressed or implied as to the results obtained from use in the formulation, procedure or products suggested herein. Neither is any
permission or recommendation to practice any invention covered by patent either expressed or implied.

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