FG201

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Gardening
PLANT TRIAL RESULTS: Beautiful Burnets
TA U N T O N ’ S
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NATIVE PLANTS
FOR YOUR REGION
GREEN SOLUTIONS
FOR LAWN CARE
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CONTENTS | September • October 2021 |
features
32 Tropical inspiration
for shade containers
Add flair to low-light areas
using unique houseplants
and perennials
by Scott Endres, Laura Mathews,
and Derrik Gagliardi
40 Naturalistic planting
If you mimic the look of nature,
and add a little art of your own,
you’ll have a garden that is better
for the environment and requires
less work from you
by Steve Aitken
50 Green solutions
for lawn care
Build your earth-friendly yard
with healthy soil and a diverse
plant community
by Linda Chalker-Scott
54 Burnet: The best plant

you’re not growing
These perennials are the ultimate
choice for bridging the gap
between summer and fall
by Richard Hawke
64 Bring in the birds

The right native plant species
can make your garden an
avian heaven
by William Cullina
On the cover
SEE THE STORY ON P. 40. • Photo by Ellen Rooney 32
FG201ct.indd 3 7/15/21 1:16 PM

CONTENTS | September • October 2021 |
64
12
departments
6 Editor’s letter
8 Over the fence
10 Readers’ tips
12 Super cool plants
• Ohsumi toad lily
• Kindred Spirit® oak
• ‘Zimbelstern’ sneezeweed
16 Garden shed
18 Plant MD
52
The three misunderstandings
54 about powdery mildew
20 Indoor gardening
24 Edible garden
How to grow figs
30 Garden photo
of the day
72 Regional picks
Plants for the birds
in your region
16 • NORTHWEST
• SOUTHWEST
• MOUNTAIN WEST
• SOUTHERN PLAINS
• MIDWEST
• SOUTHEAST
• NORTHEAST
80 Pronunciation
guide
82 Last word
83 Captivating
combination
48
48 20
FG201ct.indd 4 7/15/21 1:17 PM

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2021
e d ito r’s l ette r
Contributing this month
Bill Cullina has been described

as an intrepid New England
gardener, but native-plant
guru might be a better moni-
ker. Before becoming the
executive director of the
Morris Arboretum in 2019, Bill
spent eight years as the presi-
dent and CEO of the Coastal Maine
Botanical Gardens. Prior to that he worked
for 13 years as the nursery director and head
Close encounters of the feathered kind

propagator at the New England Wildflower
Society, where he developed the largest
native-plant nursery in New England. Bill is
A few months ago a bird got stuck in my hair. This did not happen also the author of several books on native
while I was out in the garden. But it almost certainly had something to do plants, ranging from woodies to herbaceous
perennials and grasses.
with how bird-friendly my landscape is.
After doing a major pruning on my coral bark maple, I channeled my
inner Martha Stewart and created a wreath out of the bright red gleanings. Steven Biggs’s love for growing
(This all circles back to the bird-in-hair incident—stick with me.) Once food reshaped his Toronto yard,
finished, I hung my creation on the front door. It looked lovely, and it which includes a driveway
straw-bale garden, a rooftop
perfectly accented the nearby redtwig dogwood and winterberries flanking kitchen garden, wicking
my front steps. beds, an edible-themed front
Well, apparently a little wren decided that my new twiggy wreath yard, a potted patio citrus
grove, and lots of fig plants. He’s
was the perfect “tree” to rest in after gorging itself on the nearby berries.
a self-described “fig pig,” and his
All would have been fine if I hadn’t chosen that exact moment to open
Photos, clockwise from top left: FG staff; courtesy of Dan Robarts; courtesy of Steven Biggs; courtesy of millettephotomedia.com.
family knows that the car can’t go in
the front door, which scared the bird and sent it straight into my hair. I the garage over winter because that’s
screamed and started flailing around until the bird thankfully dislodged where his dormant fig plants hang out.
When not writing, teaching horticulture,
itself. Then it promptly flew into the house through the open door. or podcasting about gardening with his
By this time my husband had come to see what the racket was all about. teenage daughter, he’s in the kitchen
I told him I thought a bird had flown into my hair and then inside the cooking his harvest.
house. He didn’t fully believe me until he found the wren clinging to the
curtains behind our couch. With a pair of gloves, a bath towel, and quite a
Reggie D. Millette isn’t just
bit of luck, we managed to get the little fella back outside, unscathed. a garden photographer; he’s
Despite this traumatizing event (likely more so for the wren than me), an avid gardener as well.
I still love how many birds have made my garden their home. In this issue, A member of several plant
societies—including the
you’ll find a plethora of bird-friendly plant suggestions (pp. 64–71 and American Hosta Society,
72–78). Incorporating these gems into your beds and borders is a great way American Hemerocallis
to make your landscape more ecologically sustainable, and it gives you a Society, American Iris Society,
American Conifer Society, and
good reason to buy more plants. Perennial Plant Association—Reggie enjoys
Just remember to open your front door with caution. spending time in his own extensive landscape
when he’s not traveling across the globe to
capture images of others’ gardens. He has
authored several gardening books (in French
and English) and even hosted a radio talk
show on gardening for nearly seven years.
—Danielle Sherry Executive Editor When asked how important Reggie is to Fine
dsherry@taunton.com Gardening, executive art director Stephanie
Fagan responded, “We couldn’t put out a
single issue without him.”
6 Fine Gardening | october 2021
FG201le.indd 6 7/15/21 1:17 PM

fine
Gardening ®
Executive Editor Danielle Sherry
Executive Stephanie Fagan

Art Director
Editor at Large Steve Aitken
Associate Editor Carol Collins
Assistant Editor Diana Koehm Hyacinth Caribbean Dream Daffodil Pacific Rim
Copy/Production Don Burgard

Editor
Contributing Tony Avent

Editors Linda Chalker-Scott
Stephanie Cohen
Stacie Crooks
Kelly Dodson
Jeff Gillman
Richard Hawke
Sue Milliken
Jason Reeves
Senior Editor, Peter Chapman

Books Beautiful Blends Out of the Blue Blend
FineGardening.com
Digital Content Christine Alexander

Manager
Digital Content Kaitlyn Hayes

Production Specialist
Digital Content Karalyn Demos

Production Specialist
Video Director Colin Russell
Manager, Jeff Roos Lily Mascara Tulip Purple Elegance Allium Yellow Fantasy
Video Studio
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FG201le.indd 7 7/13/21 9:41 AM

OV ER TH E FE NC E
Revisiting a ting your readers know about this lovely and tough-
resilient yarrow as-nails new yarrow.
In 2019 I —Mary Murphy, Tarrytown, New York
wrote to Fine
Gardening to Not a shady character after all
thank Stephanie The Southern Plains regional page in your July/
Cohen for her August 2021 issue indicates that Rock Candy™
review in the Ruby penstemon is suitable for full to partial shade
March/April (p. 74). I’ve never seen a penstemon suited to full
2018 issue of shade. Is this accurate?
a newly intro- —Cathleen S., Farmington, New Mexico
duced yarrow
called New FG responds: It is not accurate. That should have
Vintage™ read “full sun to partial shade.”
Violet (Achil-
lea millefolium Tall plant on the prairie
‘Balvinviolet’, Can you please tell me what the very tall yellow
Zones 4–9). As flowers are on page 44 of your July/August 2021
I mentioned in issue? The stems are very tall and thin but not
my letter, I droopy. I’d like to create a similar space.
ordered two and —Melanie Funderburk, York, South Carolina
planted them
on top of a retaining wall, which is located in a very FG responds: That plant is prairie dock (Silphium
sunny and hot location, and they were doing great. terebinthaceum, Zones 3–9), which is native across
Well, they had a bit of an adventure in February eastern North America. Coincidentally, you’ll also
2020. The retaining wall where they were planted find it in the opening photo of “Naturalistic Plant-
had to be dismantled in order to replace the sewer ing” (p. 41) of this issue.
line that was underneath it. So on a 50°F day in
February 2020, I lifted my two “VVs,” wrapped
their root balls in burlap, and laid them on the floor
of our garage, making sure that I kept the root balls
Photos: courtesy of Mary Murphy (left); courtesy of Austin and Belinda Eischeid (right)
moist. A week later the retaining wall was repaired
and, luckily, the temperature was again at 50°F. I
divided one VV so that I would have three, lightly
amended the soil, planted the three VVs, laid down
2 inches of cedar mulch, and crossed my fingers
that they would get through the rest of the winter
and return in the spring.
Not only did these plants survive, but they are now
In addition to its towering stature and bright yellow
almost triple in size (see photo above). So, once
blooms (left), prairie dock is prized for its bold basal
again, I offer my thanks to Stephanie Cohen for let- foliage (right).
WANT YOUR OPINIONS HEARD?

Email your comments to fg@taunton.com,
or mail them to Fine Gardening,
63 South Main Street, Newtown, CT 06470.
8 FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 2021
FG201of.indd 8 7/13/21 9:47 AM

fine
Gardening
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FG201of.indd 9 7/13/21 9:48 AM

Readers’ Tips
| From one gardener to another |
From damaged lantern to hanging planter abundance of daylilies. When they bloom in
I volunteer at my local Habitat for Human- spring and summer, I see that some would
ity ReStore, which sends any metal that look better in other places in my garden
can’t be sold to a recycling center. One day due to color, size, fragrance, and charm. But
as I was going in the back door, I spotted because they are blooming, I don’t want to
an elaborate copper lantern sitting on top disturb them. I tag them with the tape, not-
of the recycling container. One of the store ing with a permanent marker where they
employees told me that it had come in with would look better in my garden. I enjoy
many other things and been accepted with their beautiful summer blooms undisturbed
them as a lot. The damaged lantern had and then safely move them in the fall. This
obviously fallen from where it had hung. I way I don’t have to rely on my memory to
pulled it out and bought it. After straighten- get it right.
ing the bent areas, I bought a chain and a —Pam Morgan, Monroe, North Carolina
Winning tip mandevilla plant. With the aid of a Velcro

hanger—so no damage is done to the tree—
Keep those it now hangs from a limb on a cherry tree.
doors open —Paul Brothe, Newburgh, New York
My work-shed doors
Potted plants, rise up!
are spring loaded to
You know those risers that are made of
help keep them closed.
tough plastic that parents buy for their
The problem was kids’ dorm beds to give a little extra height
keeping them open for storage underneath? They also make
when I was moving a great risers in large cachepots for dummy
mower or tiller in and planting. I have plants that live in very nice
out. I buried a 24-inch plastic liner pots because their cachepots
length of 11⁄2-inch- are simply too heavy and I would never be Efficient container watering
diameter PVC pipe able to move them. For example, I use an I am from Maine, where water was abun-
antique crock for an indoor potted palm. dant, but now I live in Georgia, where
next to each side of
But I like to give the palm a shower once in recent droughts have reinforced the need
the ramp. Now all I
a while during the winter, and having the for water-saving practices. Now when I
do is drop a 1-inch-
liner raised makes lifting it out of the crock water my many containers, hanging or fixed,
square stake into one
much easier. I place them on top of a 5-gallon bucket. I
of the pipes and the give the plants a good drink, and any excess
—Carla Z. Mudry, Malvern, Pennsylvania
door remains open. water drains into the bucket. It’s amazing
When I’m done, I pull Enjoy now, move later how much of this precious resource can be
the stake and the Orange 1-inch flagging tape has become collected this way and reused on another
door shuts. a useful tool when I relocate herbaceous needy plant. Every drop counts!
—Tom Porter, Belchertown, perennials in the fall. I have a variety and —Kate Coker, McDonough, Georgia
Massachusetts
Photos: courtesy of the contributors
We need your gardening tips!

If you can, please submit one or more high-resolution photos with your tip. This will help readers better understand
your clever idea, and it will make it more likely for your submission to be chosen as the winning tip.
Send your tips to: fg@taunton.com, or mail them to Tips, Fine Gardening, P.O. Box 5506, Newtown, CT 06470-
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Prize for winning tip: A FREE one-year subscription to Fine Gardening
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FG201tp.indd 10 7/13/21 1:26 PM

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FG201tp.indd 11 7/13/21 1:26 PM

Super Cool Plants
| Find out what the experts are growing |
Admire the small

details in this
late-summer star
Toad lily (Tricyrtis spp. and cvs., Zones
5–8) is an Asian perennial often found
growing in dappled, open glades,
woodland trail edges, partially shaded
slopes, or, in some cases, enjoying the
mist from waterfalls. These sites all
provide the requisite moist soil, rich
in organic matter. Various selections
have found favor in our gardens for
their lovely, interesting late summer
and fall flowers. Such familiar toad
lilies offer stems that can be stiffly
upright and useful for cutting, or ones
with a more relaxed perennial sprawl,
or a few that are pendulous and suited
for spilling over container edges or
even hanging baskets.
Set aside any preconceptions you
may have, because Ohsumi toad lily
is none of the above in regard to
growth habit. The stout compactness
of this species might be attributed to
the current trend of breeding smaller
plants for the patio or balcony, but
that would be wrong. Instead, we can
thank that penultimate plant breeder,
Mother Nature, for getting this one
just right, as usual.
Ohsumi toad lily has comparatively
large leaves, which have some dark
mottling when young and clasp closely
the short stems. This early coloration
fades as the summer brightens and
the foliage matures. As you stroll
the garden in late summer, a sudden
whooshing sound startles you, quickly Ohsumi toad lily
followed by peals of laughter, for it was Tricyrtis ohsumiensis
your own sharp intake of breath upon zones: 5–8
seeing this unexpectedly splendid toad conditions:Partial to full shade; rich,
lily in bloom. These large yellow flow- moist, neutral to slightly acidic soil 8 to 12
ers, evenly stippled in chocolate-red inches
native range: Japan tall
flecks, flaunt the elevated, red-spotted
tripartite pistil while gleefully pushing
the limits of proper scale and propor-
tion. They are simply perfect. 8 to 12 inches wide
| sources |
Kelly Dodson and Sue Milliken grow some
of the coolest plants on the planet at Far • Broken Arrow Nursery, Hamden, CT; 203-288-1026; brokenarrownursery.com
Reaches Farm in Port Townsend, Washington. • Far Reaches Farm, Port Townsend, WA; 360-385-5114; farreachesfarm.com
continued on page 14
FG201scp.indd 12 7/13/21 9:49 AM

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The Finest Victorian Greenhouses in the World

Endorsed by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, England
www.alitex-greenhouses.com Joe Hickson: 413-530-6908

Super Cool Plants continued from page 12
Everyone has room for
Photos: Alamy Stock Photos (p. 12); courtesy of Jason Reeves (p. 14); millettephotomedia.com (p. 15)
this tough oak tree
In 1974, legendary nurseryman Earl Cully
planted a thousand acorns from a cross
of columnar English oak (Quercus robur
‘Fastigiata’, Zones 4–8) with our native
swamp white oak (Q. bicolor, Zones 4–8).
30 to
40 feet Only a few of the resulting seedlings had
tall the desired attributes of both species
Cully was looking for and made his final
cut. Kindred Spirit® was one of the first he
introduced to the market.
The original Kindred Spirit® is located
in Jacksonville, Illinois, on what was once
Cully’s property. It is over 40 years old
and has long since proven itself. From its
swamp white oak parentage, it inherited
6 to 7 feet wide cold hardiness, heat tolerance, the ability
to tolerate constantly damp as well as
Kindred Spirit® oak dry soil, powdery mildew resistance, and
Quercus × warei ‘Nadler’ limbs that withstand wind and ice. And
zones: 4–7 from its English oak heritage it gained a
tight, upright habit.
conditions:Full sun;
average soil Rising like an exclamation point, it
serves as a powerful vertical element in
native range: Hybrid
the landscape, and the tight, upright habit
gives it a formal feel. It makes a bold focal
point, and when planted in a row it forms
a handsome property-defining screen
or windbreak. The shiny, dark, leathery
leaves have silvery green undersides and
are particularly noticeable when dancing
in the wind. In fall, the foliage turns golden
brown before dropping to reveal a strong
framework of upswept branches. Despite
being a hybrid, it produces attractive
medium-size acorns that provide a source
of food for small mammals.
Under average to good garden condi-
tions, this tree will be fast-growing in its
youth. A young Kindred Spirit® can easily
grow 12 to 18 inches a year. It prefers a
sunny site and average to good soil with
regular water during periods of drought
during its first couple of growing seasons.
Once established, it will be quite drought
tolerant, though constantly damp soil will
pose no problem. It is also tolerant of
urban pollution and salt.
Jason Reeves is an ornamental horticulturist

with the University of Tennessee.
| sources |
•K
indred Spirit, Highland, MD
301-968-5251; kindredspiritoak.com
•S
ooner Plant Farm, Park Hill, OK
918-453-0771; soonerplantfarm.com
FG201scp.indd 14 7/13/21 9:49 AM

Photos: Alamy Stock Photos (p. 12); courtesy of Jason Reeves (p. 14); millettephotomedia.com (p. 15).
‘Zimbelstern’ sneezeweed
Gotta Helenium autumnale ‘Zimbelstern’
have zones: 3–8
it! size:4 feet tall and 2 feet wide
conditions: Full sun; average to moist soil
native range: Garden origin
These bright blooms are the best

way to wrap up summer
Sneezeweeds won’t make you sneeze, but they will make you smile.
Their cheery blooms come along to make you happy right when sum-
mer is starting to wear you down. One of the best of the bunch is
‘Zimbelstern’. Forming a tall clump, ‘Zimbelstern’ sports yellow flowers
lightly streaked with orange and a prominent brown cone in the center.
The 2-inch-wide blooms are the highlight of late summer, especially
for pollinators and for birds who will feast on the seeds. ‘Zimbelstern’
excelled in a recent trial of numerous sneezeweed cultivars at the
Mt. Cuba Center in Delaware, scoring high for its strong stems, prolific
Illustrations: Elara Tanguy.
bloom, and lack of powdery mildew. As with all members of this genus,
‘Zimbelstern’ does poorly in dry soil, but if you give it average to wet
soil in full sun, it will be as happy to be there as you are to see it.
| sources |
• Digging Dog Nursery, Albion, CA; 707-937-1130; diggingdog.com
the #1 brand in organic gardening
Watch your garden bloom and grow with all natural

soil mixes and fertilizers from Espoma Organic®,
the leader in organic gardening for over 90 years.
Espoma. A natural in the garden since 1929.
www.espoma.com
FG201scp.indd 15 7/15/21 1:18 PM

Garden Shed
| Tools you can depend on, tested by experts you can trust |
LGEGE Garden Tweezers
Planting and pruning small, fragile items can
be difficult. I cannot count the times I’ve
cleared all the foliage from a string of pearls
(Senecio rowleyanus, Zones 9–12) just by trying
to plant it—that is, until I discovered this pair
of long-handled, stainless-steel tweezers sold
by LGEGE. These tweezers are the perfect tool
for planting in tight spaces and for pruning

pokey cacti and succulents. They are sold as a
set, with a straight-tipped and a curve-tipped
version, both of which are about 101⁄ 2 inches
long. If you’re considering doing anything
delicate in the garden, you must add these
tweezers to your tool collection.
—Laurel Startzel
Source: amazon.com
Price: $8.99
ARS SE45 Floral Shears
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weeding arsenal is the Nejiri Gama hand hoe. pruner, which means they can
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| SCIENCE-BASED INFORMATION FOR A HEALTHIER GARDEN |
Photos: courtesy of Matthew Borden. Illustration: Christos Georghiou/ shutterstock.com.

The three misunderstandings about powdery mildew
POWDERY MILDEWS may be the plant diseases Hundreds of powdery mildew species may be
most recognizable to gardeners. They are known present in your region, with perhaps a few dozen
for the gray to white patches of dusty fungal causing common garden powdery mildew infections
growth that develop on leaves of numerous plant on their specific host plant groups. So when diverse
species. Over the years, however, I have noticed plant groups in your garden are being affected
that powdery mildews are also one of the most simultaneously by different powdery mildew spe-
misunderstood common garden diseases. A closer cies, you know that environmental conditions are
SPECIALIST
look at these diseases should help you better handle generally favoring powdery mildew development,
Matthew Borden,
them when they inevitably show up. which you can at least partially alleviate.
DPM, is a plant health
consultant specializ-
ing in diagnostics 1 | THERE 2 | IT’S NOT ABOUT WET LEAVES
and integrated ISN'T JUST A second misunderstanding about powdery mildews
management of ONE KIND is that they are caused by the same conditions that
landscape plant
The first thing apply to most other common fungal and bacterial
pests and diseases.
gardeners mis- leaf spots and rusts. Most fungal and bacterial dis-
understand is eases are favored by warm weather, high humidity,
that powdery and freestanding water on the leaf or plant surface.
mildews are This is not the case with powdery mildews, which
not a single prefer the warm days, high relative humidity, and
fungal organ- cool nights of spring and fall for infecting plant tis-
ism that, if left sues. Wet leaves are not necessary, and water on the
untreated, will It's not usually this bad. Powdery foliage actually inhibits powdery mildew infection.
spread across mildew can cause severe distortion, In another departure from most other foliar dis-
the garden, but only in extreme cases. eases, powdery mildews thrive in the warm, dry
jumping from weather of summer. This is because infections that
plant to plant in an unstoppable wave of dusty were established in spring begin to release millions
damage. Instead, they are caused by numerous of tiny summer spores, called conidia, that float on
species of powdery mildew fungi, most of which the breeze and require only a bit of high relative
are relatively host-specific and may only infect a humidity to germinate and infect new plant tissue.
single plant, genus, or family, with great variation My favorite way powdery mildews are different
in susceptibility therein. is that they are among the few fungal diseases you
The symptoms can be just as varied. Powdery might find active
mildews are best known for causing circular white during winter and
patches on leaves; however, it is important to know early spring. An
that symptoms vary due to the many species and important one to
host plants affected. But some infections may appear watch for is mint
as little more than a faint dusting across badly dis- powdery mildew,
torted new growth, as scabby or rustlike patches on which is often
leaves and stems, and sometimes as reddish or purple seen on weeds
discoloration and spotting that may lack white such as henbit
powdery growth. Usually, affected leaves of herba- and dead nettle
ceous perennials will yellow and drop prematurely, (photo right).
while more serious infections on woody plants may The powdery Just another reason to weed.
Powdery mildews can overwinter
result in more permanent withering and distortion mildew species
on common weeds and infect
of shoots (photo above). However, plants are very infecting them ornamental plants later in the
rarely killed by powdery mildews. (Neoerysiphe growing season.
FG201pmd.indd 18 7/13/21 9:52 AM

galeopsidis) has a wide host range and is capable of for example, produces flushes of growth over the
Photos: courtesy of Matthew Borden. Illustration: Christos Georghiou/shutterstock.com.
spreading to many other mint family plants in your summer that are readily infected.
garden later in spring, as well as to a few herbaceous
shrubs from other families. • TREATMENTS: There are many fungicides labeled
for powdery mildew control, ranging from highly
3 | IT'S NOT UNTREATABLE effective systemic fungicides to those that offer To find out
A third misunderstanding is that powdery mildews only minor protection, such as neem oil. Recom- which plants
are difficult or even impossible to treat. They may mendations vary by state and situation, but keep are most often
be difficult to eradicate entirely, but we have many affected by
in mind that baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
powdery mildew,
good management options. Remember, though, that can damage plants if the toxic sodium ions are go to
infections occurring late in the season are unlikely to allowed to build up. Potassium bicarbonate fungi- FineGardening.com.
cause any significant harm, and no treatment may be cides are a safer option for your plants. Wettable
required beyond sanitation. If you do need to take sulfur has been used against powdery mildew for
action, here are some ideas. around 3,000 years and remains a useful option.
Talk with your local extension service first.
• CULTURAL: Prune tactfully to encourage air move-
ment and light penetration, both of which reduce • SANITIZE: Clean up infected plant material to
humidity near susceptible tissues to some extent. reduce the amount of fungus that can overwinter
But be careful with your pruning. Overfertilized, and reinfect plants in the spring. Keep an eye on
succulent, rapid new growth is particularly sus- weeds that may harbor powdery mildew species
ceptible. Topping or pollarding susceptible trees, over the winter or in early spring. ❧
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Indoor Gardening
| Houseplants for small spaces |
Admitting you are addicted to collecting houseplants is the first step. The
second step? Finding more space for new plants! Plants that stay small are the perfect solution for
indoor gardeners with limited space. You may live in an apartment or small home and struggle to
squeeze large, leafy specimens into crowded windowsills. Or if your home has limited natural light,
windowsill space might already be in short supply. Perhaps you want to bring a bit of nature into a
small office space or a corner of your desk. As your space overflows with larger selections that you
had no idea would get so big, tiny plants can feed your plant addiction without cramping your style.
Imagine being able to grow hundreds of
Leslie F. Halleck is a horti- petite plant specimens even if you only
culturist and author of several have a small bit of space to spare. All
books, including Plant Parenting: across the world of houseplants, there are
Easy Ways to Make More House-
thousands of small species to discover.
plants, Vegetables, and Flowers
Here are a few of my favorites for begin-
and Tiny Plants: Discover the
Joys of Growing and Collecting ners and experienced plant parents alike.
Itty-Bitty Houseplants.
How small is small?

The terms “miniature,” “micromini,” or “tiny” are used in the houseplant world to describe
species or cultivars of plants that naturally stay smaller than 6 inches tall, but my favorites
usually don’t exceed 3 inches. For some plants, the designation of “tiny” or “mini” may be
relative to the standard size of the parent or related species and varieties.
Thimble cactus
Name: Mammillaria vetula subsp. gracilis
Zones: 9–11
Most cactus species are just too big or
too prickly to be suitable for small indoor Vietnamese violet
spaces. This is not the case with the ador- Name: Deinostigma tamiana
able thimble cactus. Thanks to its tiny Zones: 10–11
size—plants stay under 4 inches tall and A cheery, compact bloomer perfect for a small windowsill
less than 2 inches wide—thimble cactus or office desk, Vietnamese violet grows 3 inches tall, or
fits nicely on a small, bright windowsill or 6 inches tall when in bloom. If you have struggled with
tucked under small grow lights. The fine, African violets in the past, you will likely fare better with
matted spines, which radiate in small, this more-forgiving species. The compact plants have
starlike patterns, are touchable and rarely small, fuzzy, oval-shaped leaves that emerge in clusters
bite. During cooler months, plants proof small rosettes. Pure white, tubular flowers with striking
duce tiny, white, bell-shaped flowers. Like purple stripes appear in abundance year-round, bearing
most cacti, thimble cactus needs a lot of ample seed. Medium, indirect light is best to keep plants
light—equivalent to full-sun or partial-sun in flower, so choose a bright, east-facing window, or use a
conditions in a south- or west-facing win- supplemental grow light as you would for African violets.
dow. You can also grow it with other small Artificial office lighting is also ideal. Like many gesneriads,
succulents on a shelf with grow lights. Water sparingly, allowing the soil to dry com- these plants appreciate consistent moisture but need
pletely between waterings (plants can stay dry for extended periods), and make sure good root-zone drainage and can approach dry soil
it’s planted in a porous container. Handle it with care! Thimble cactus is fragile, and between waterings. The ideal container is porous and
the branching offsets are easily knocked off the plant. 3 inches in diameter.
➠
FG201ig.indd 20 7/15/21 1:19 PM

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indoor garden continued from page 20
‘Brownii’ Kraus’s spikemoss

Name: Selaginella kraussiana var. brownii
Zones: 6–11
If you love moss, then you are bound to adore ‘Brownii’
Kraus’s spikemoss. Species of Selaginella look like a cross
between a moss and a fern, but they are neither. This
variety is easy to grow and particularly petite, growing
only to about 1 inch tall and up to a few inches wide. Its
container should be up to 3 inches wide and nonporous.
Photos: courtesy of Leslie Halleck

Plants have a lush, moundlike growth habit and cheery,
chartreuse foliage. This spikemoss is happy growing in
low-light conditions, such as a north-facing window, but
may grow more vigorously in an east-facing window or
under a small grow light. It needs constant moisture and
high humidity with good root aeration. Do not let it dry
out. The bright, feathery foliage brightens up any glass
jar, bubble bowl, or terrarium planting.
Creeping button fern | design |
A big impact in a
Name: Pyrrosia nummularifolia
Zones: 11–12
Ferns can present a struggle for many keepers of indoor small space
plants. They typically require higher humidity than our
Most tiny plants need tiny pots, but
homes provide. While I recommend that most tiny fern
each species is different. Below
species be grown under glass, creeping button fern is an
are some ideas for containing and
exception that is perfectly happy growing in the open
displaying your small plants.
windowsill; no terrarium or misting is required. If you do
want to grow this fern under glass, creeping button fern • Get creative with containers.
can be planted directly into a terrarium or bubble bowl Some tiny species have long, deep
if conditions are not soggy, although it does take con- root systems, dictating that they
sistent moisture. The small, fuzzy leaves are borne along should be grown in relatively larger
slender, creeping rhizomes that will trail or climb. For containers, while many succulents
this reason, an individual plant can reach up to 10 inches or mini-gesneriads need only the
long, although it will only be 2 to 3 inches tall. Plants tiniest of pots to accommodate a
thrive in medium light in an east-facing window but can shallow root system. If you love col-
tolerate low light. While creeping button fern appreciates lecting unique and vintage vessels,
consistent soil moisture, as do most ferns, this tough, tiny tiny plants give you the perfect
species tolerates semi-dry soil between waterings. Plant it excuse to expand your collection.
in a nonporous container. Small teacups, glass kitchen can-
isters, seashells, and seasoning
jars may be appropriate for certain
plants. Some of my tiniest plants
Micromini African violet
require containers no larger than a
Name: Streptocarpus sect. saintpaulia thimble—or an actual thimble! It all
Zones: 11–12 depends on the individual plant.
Growing a mere 2 to 3 inches tall and wide, these tiny
gems brighten up even the smallest of indoor spaces. • Grow under glass.
There are three official size categories of African violet: My favorite way to display my tiny
standard, semi-miniature, and miniature. The adorable plant specimens is with glass jars,
micromini cultivars, which are an unofficial trade designa- canisters, and Wardian cases (deco-
tion of miniatures, are hybrids from the parent species rative miniature greenhouses). You
Streptocarpus afroviola and S. shumensis. African violets do not need to get fancy or compli-
thrive in low to medium light levels, with best blooming in cated with planted terrariums. For
medium light or under grow lights. If plants do not bloom, tiny, humidity-loving plant species,
they need more light. Never overpot a micromini African simply set potted specimens inside
violet, as excess moisture can cause crown rot. The best any glass vessel with a lid, and
container for these very small specimens is 2 inches wide cover with a cloche or canning jar.
and nonporous. Water plants consistently, but let soil dry Using a Wardian case allows you to
slightly between waterings. African violets naturally thrive display your tiny plants wherever
when relative humidity is in the 70% to 80% range, so you you would like for short periods
can grow microminis under glass or planted directly in of time and then place them back
well-draining terrariums or bubble bowls. under ideal light conditions.
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Edible Garden
| how to grow figs |
These fascinating fruit trees are easier to maintain than you
might think, even in colder climates
Figs intrigue many gardeners. The breadth

of interest struck me when I donated a spindly little
dormant fig plant for a raffle and the winner told me
she had received multiple offers from people wanting to
buy it. For people with roots in the Middle East and the
Mediterranean, figs (Ficus carica and cvs., Zones 6–10)
are a link to family. There are stories of plants passed
down through generations, descended from cuttings
taken in the Old World. There’s also a sensory aspect:
My neighbor Andreas says that the sweet smell given
off by my fig trees makes him feel as if he were back in
Greece. For other people, the draw is the succulent fruit,
a touch of the exotic they are surprised they can grow.
My reason for growing figs is simple: The fruits are
too perishable to ship when ripe, and they don’t ripen
after picking. So if I want to devour perfectly ripe fruit
and not simply tolerate “fresh” supermarket offerings, I
need to grow my own.
Photo this page: millettephotomedia.com. Photos facing page: dreamstime.com (top); Visions/gapphotos.com (bottom).
Get familiar with figs
While many people associate fig plants with California
or Mediterranean countries, they can be part of back-
yard landscapes beyond those mild climates. In colder
areas, they just need creative gardeners to help them
(see “Overwintering tips for colder climates,” p. 26).
The plants are deciduous, going dormant over the
winter in all but the warmest parts of North America.
Fig trees tolerate more cold than many people realize.
Mature, dormant plants can survive temperatures as
low as 15° to 20°F—sometimes even colder—without
damage. Hardiness in figs is not an exact science, though
young plants are more tender than mature ones. Fruit
and young shoots will be affected by cold before older,
woodier stems. A plant that is already dormant can
withstand cold better than an actively growing plant.
There are other considerations too, including wind, the
duration of cold temperatures, how exposed the plant
is, and the extent of the temperature drop.
Many fig varieties produce more than one crop per
year. The main late-summer crop grows on wood from
A container-grown plant can be overwintered indoors
in a cool, dark location. When pruning a potted fig, keep in
the current year, but many varieties produce an early
mind the dimensions of your storage area and any doors you’ll “breba” crop on wood from the previous year. Don’t
encounter on the way in. expect to see flowers on a fig tree, though. A fig “fruit” is
FG201eg.indd 24 7/2/21 11:29 AM

| at a g l a n c e |
Pests and diseases

• Fruit theft by wildlife can be
prevented by netting smaller bushes,
placing mesh bags over individual
fruit, or installing a motion-activated
sprinkler.
• Root-knot nematodes cause
swelling on the roots that can slow
growth and lead to poor fruiting.
They are most often a problem in
light, sandy soil. If nematode pres-
sure prevents you from planting in
the ground, consider growing plants
in containers.
• Fig mosaic virus can cause mot-
tled leaves and stunted growth. It is
very common and cannot be cured,
so treat it as something to live with.
Plants will often outgrow symptoms
when conditions are good.
• Fig rust is a fungal disease that
attacks young leaves, causing
green-yellow spots that eventually
get larger and become brown. It’s
a bigger problem in humid areas,
where it can lead to premature
defoliation of plants and reduced
Photo this page: millettephotomedia.com. Photos facing page: dreamstime.com (top); Visions/gapphotos.com (bottom).
yield. Elsewhere it is more of an aes-

thetic problem. Good sanitation—
collecting dead leaves and properly
disposing of them—can slow down
the spread and prevent reoccurrence
the following year.
Grow an in-ground plant as a bush for more overwintering options. Once
dormant, a multistemmed plant can be wrapped, boxed, or buried to protect it from
freezing temperatures.
actually an inside-out bundle of tiny flowers. Although Top-dress the soil around fig plants annually with
some commercially grown varieties must be pollinated compost. In sandy soil, more-frequent feeding might
by a small wasp to produce a crop, most figs grown be necessary. Avoid overfeeding, which results in lots of
by home gardeners are “common” figs, which do not leaves but no figs. Keep young or recently transplanted
require pollination. figs watered until they are established.
Figs in containers require regular watering and feeding.
Planting and summer care are straightforward A balanced, all-purpose plant food works well. Consis-
The top consideration when scouting a planting loca- tent moisture is key for potted plants because the first
tion is to find a spot in full sun. Other than that, figs thing figs do in overly dry soil is drop leaves and young
are not finicky, tolerating a wide range of soil types as fruit. You can use pots with reservoirs to provide a con-
long as the soil is well drained. Wet roots, especially in stant supply of moisture, or place a saucer under the pot
winter, can rot. to catch runoff when the plant is watered. That water
Fig roots are greedy and vigorous. This makes caring will wick back up into the pot as the soil dries.
for established in-ground plants very simple, because
they largely fend for themselves. Between the dense mat Prune and shape to keep the plant manageable
of roots and the dense canopy of leaves that shades the When left untended, figs are messy plants, suckering
ground, weed growth underneath is usually minimal. and growing into a tangle of branches. Prune to remove
continued on page 28
FG201eg.indd 25 7/15/21 1:20 PM

edible garden
| technique |
Varieties to try
There’s a fig for every taste. Some are more berrylike; some are
Overwintering tips for
more datelike. The color of the skin ranges from very dark purple colder climates
or brown to very light green, and the color of the flesh inside is
The most important rule when growing figs in cold
also quite variable.
areas is to be creative. For example, I once met a
There are many named varieties, some of which are synonyms,
Zone 5 grower who made a “figatorium,” a green-
so choosing one can be confusing. There are also many unnamed
house with permanent sides and a roof that could
varieties. If you know a local fig grower, ask what does well in
be removed for the summer.
your area. Here are six well-known varieties commonly available
Here are some other approaches to overwintering
in garden centers.
in-ground figs.
• Grow the figs below grade in a trench that
is covered for the winter.
• Install an insulated structure over the
top of the plant for the winter—and where it’s
really cold, use supplemental heat.
‘Celeste’ produces small ‘Desert King’ yields lots of

fruit with violet-brown skin and breba figs with green skin and
pink flesh. red flesh. A main crop will only
mature in areas with the wasps
Photos this page, except where noted: millettephotomedia.com. Other photos this page: Howard Rice/gapphotos.com (top left); gapphotos.com (“Technique”).
that aid pollination.
• Wrap and insulate the plant. Common fig

‘Hardy Chicago’ has small, ‘Excel’ has medium-size wraps include snow fence filled with leaves, old
violet-colored fruit with red sweet yellow figs with amber carpet, and tarps. Accumulated moisture can
flesh. It is very cold tolerant. flesh. cause rot, so use materials that breathe.
•C
hop the roots around at least half of the
plant so it can be laid on the ground, then bury
or mulch it.
If things don’t go as planned and the aboveground
portion of the plant dies back, it will usually grow
back from the roots. If you have a winter mishap,
keep trying.
Containers are a practical way to overwinter figs
in Zone 7 and colder areas. Because the roots are
exposed to more temperature swings, a safe mini-
mum temperature for a potted plant is around 22°F.
‘Lattarula’ bears medium- ’Ronde de Bordeaux’ Potted trees go dormant in autumn as tempera-
size, very sweet, yellow-green is good for an early ripening ture and light levels drop. Speed up the process
figs with light-colored flesh. It main crop. The fruits have by cutting back water and not fertilizing. Once
also produces a heavy breba purple skin with strawberry- the plant is dormant, stow it in a protected indoor
crop. colored flesh and an excellent space such as a sunroom, garage, or cold cellar.
berry flavor. You can also keep the pot outside, protected under
an insulated frame. During winter storage indoors,
where the air may be dry, water dormant plants
occasionally to keep the soil from drying out.
➠
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edible garden continued from page 25
crossing branches. Be aware that when a leaf is picked

off or a branch pruned, there is a white, sticky sap that
can be a skin irritant. Those with sensitive skin should
wear gloves when working with fig trees.
The gardener can decide the ultimate height of the
plant and then control that height through pruning.
For container plants, consider the height of doorways
through which they must pass on the way to winter
storage. For in-ground plants, think about ease of har-
vest and whether a ladder will be used.
Figs are often grown with a single trunk in warm
areas where there is no risk of winter damage, and they
can develop into branching trees 15 to 30 feet tall with
a wide canopy. In areas where cold weather will cause
shoot dieback, grow figs as bushes instead of trees. Hav-
ing many branches instead of one big trunk is a form of
fig insurance, and a bush can more easily be protected
by wrapping or burying. To grow a plant as a bush
(photo p. 25), keep four to five strong stems.
Prune to control size. Remove wayward, weak, or crossing Plan ahead for a sweet harvest
branches, keeping the strongest and healthiest stems. The plant
If you want to encourage main-crop fruit, prune the
will respond to pruning by pushing vigorous new growth.
plant when it is dormant, as main-crop figs form on
new growth. If the goal is to get plenty of breba fruit,
prune the plant in summer after the breba harvest,
removing approximately one-third of the branches.
How will you know There is no need to thin fruit. In colder areas, how-
when to harvest? ever, pinch off figs that are unlikely to ripen. Some
When a fig is cold-climate growers even pinch out the shoot tip after
picked too soon, three to five figs have formed in order to slow down
white sap comes vegetative growth.
Photos this page: Liz Every/gapphotos.com (top); John Swithinbank/gapphotos.com (bottom).

out (pictured).
Wait longer next Where summer heat and season length are limiting
time. Although factors to ripening fruit, try to plant in a microclimate
there are a num- that provides additional heat, such as a south-facing
ber of ways to
brick wall that collects heat during the day and radiates
know when a fig
is ripe, not every it in the evening. Another cold-climate approach is to
variety behaves grow varieties that produce a heavy breba crop.
the same way.
Here are some
common clues. Steven Biggs, author of Grow Figs Where You Think You Can’t,
1. The fruit color changes. has trialed so many varieties in his Toronto garden that his family
2. The fruit droops as it gets larger and the “neck” softens. put him on a “fig diet” to make space for other things.
3. The fruit retains the impression of a gentle squeeze.
4. A drop of liquid comes out of the hole at the end of the
fig (the “eye”). Sources
• Almost Eden, Merryville, LA; 337-375-2114; almostedenplants.com
5. The skin cracks.
• One Green World, Portland, OR; 877-353-4028; onegreenworld.com
Once trees drop leaves and go dormant, the remaining
• Raintree Nursery, Morton, WA; 800-391-8892; raintreenursery.com
figs will not ripen and can be removed.
• Stark Bro’s, Louisiana, MO; 800-325-4180; starkbros.com
• Wilson Bros Gardens, McDonough, GA; 770-573-1778; wilsonbrosgardens.com
FG201eg.indd 28 7/2/21 11:30 AM

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Garden Photo of the Day
| CELEBRATING OUR READERS’ LANDSCAPES |
It’s the proper

balance of wild
and controlled.
This garden is filled
with deer-resistant,
tough perennials
that save their best
for the end of the
season.
A dynamic design despite

challenging conditions •
| AT A GLANCE |
Size: 2 acres
• Location: Kingwood,
“WHEN THE GOING GETS TOUGH, the tough New Jersey
get gardening” could describe John Markowski • Zone: 6b
and his garden in Kingwood, New Jersey, where • Conditions: Full sun; wet soil
he has powered through suboptimal conditions to • Age of the garden: 17 years
establish a vibrant garden with multiseason inter-
est. Most of the garden is situated directly around
the house in borders as well as along a back deck.
John says that the success of his garden has been
hard won over the nearly two decades he has
been gardening there, where the conditions are
somewhat peculiar and challenging. “We have a
high water table, so nothing drains—which stinks,
but it’s what led me to ornamental grasses,” he
explains. The grasses seem to thrive particularly
Photos: courtesy of John Markowski

well in the strange combination of conditions
found in the open two-acre lot: sunny, wet, windy,
and hot in summer. To top it off, John has to con-
tend with deer that frequent this inland area of
the state.
Despite that, John accounts for 150 to 200
different plants in his garden. It took much trial
and error to find selections that would do well in
FG201gpod.indd 30 7/2/21 11:31 AM

Early fall is when the magic happens. Thanks to an array of ornamental grasses and
late-blooming, pollinator-friendly perennials such as sedum (Hylotelephium spp. and cvs.,
Zones 3–9), September in this space is stunning. Earlier in the season, John makes sure
select plants get divided to look their best (right).
these conditions, especially varieties that can make Many of those plants are deer resistant, but
it through the long, wet winter. “Every spring I John placed tastier perennials closer to the house
have to take inventory to see what died, and it’s to dissuade the deer from munching. All of these Share your
garden with
like, OK, now what do I need to replace it with?” varieties have more or less passed the challenging
us online.
he says. John takes notes on all the plants he tries conditions test. Over the years, John has given up Send your
from year to year to keep track of his experiments. on trying to force plants into the garden that don’t submissions to:
gpod@taunton.com
Obviously, he has found a plethora of plants that take to it. “Babying them only works for so long,”
feel right at home. he says, “so it’s better to keep it simple.”
Among the most reliable players are ornamental Gardening is an escape for John and provides
grasses, with Indian grass (Sorghastrum nutans and a needed respite from a busy work and home
cvs., Zones 4–9), ‘Northwind’ switchgrass (Pani- life. “It’s nice to be able to walk outside, take my
cum virgatum ‘Northwind’, Zones 5–9), and flame pruners, and just dig around for a while.” He says
Photos: courtesy of John Markowski
grass (Miscanthus ‘Purpurascens’, Zones 4–9) he tries to foster a controlled chaos in the land-
topping the list. Another integral plant is Joe Pye scape, despite an admitted tendency toward the
weed (Eutrochium purpureum, Zones 4–9), which control part. “I love wild gardens, but that goes
has been divided over the years and sited in mul- against my nature, and I’ll weed for hours on end
tiple locations around the house. The combination so that it’s perfect. I try to allow it to be as wild as
of Joe Pye weed and grasses is what John credits I can—without driving myself crazy.”
for creating a sense of cohesiveness in the design. —Christine Alexander is digital content manager.
FG201gpod.indd 31 7/15/21 1:20 PM

SHADE
CONTAINERS
Add flair to
low-light areas
using unique
houseplants and
perennials
1
4
Photo:
FG201EN.indd 32 7/13/21 1:28 PM

BY SCOTT ENDRES, LAURA MATHEWS, AND DERRIK GAGLIARDI
I
t’s easy to ignore the shady corners of our gardens
and focus on areas with the most light, especially
when it comes to creating warm-season containers.
Many of us get frustrated or bored with the limited
options in the shade annuals section at local garden cen-
ters. However, lightly shaded locations are the perfect
places to get creative and try something new. Empower
yourself to explore arrangements that include unique
selections such as shade-loving perennials and tropical
houseplants. Many houseplants are understory plants in
2
their native jungles, which means they love bright, indi-
rect light; this makes them perfect for shade containers.
Get inspired with the following examples that showcase 1
the wide range of options that are available just beyond
the annual aisle.
3
BRIGHT HUES SHOCK IN THE SHADE
You don’t have to give up flowers when planting in the shade. 4
Think outside the box with tropical options such as ‘White Heart’
flamingo flower, which adds a pop of eye-catching white here.
Also, focus on adding color in other ways—for example, KongTM
Rose coleus’s chartreuse and hot pink foliage. We were able to
pack in even more color by layering the plants, specifically tuck-
ing ‘Madame O’Reilly’ begonia and other colorful trailing plants
under the larger leaves. Since these plants are shade tolerant, 5
you eliminate the usual risk of taller plants shading out their
understory neighbors.
1. ‘White Heart’ flamingo flower (Anthurium andraeanum
‘White Heart’, Zones 10–12)
2. Kimberly queen fern (Nephrolepis obliterata, Zones 9–11)
3. KongTM Rose coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides ‘Kakegawa
CE14’, Zones 9–12)
4. ‘Madame O’Reilly’ begonia (Begonia ‘Madame O’Reilly’,
Zone 10)
5. Wax plant (Hoya linearis, Zone 11)
FOLIAGE COMES FIRST WITH CONTRASTING TEXTURES AND FORMS

Going green doesn’t have to be boring! Choosing plants from across the green spectrum allows this container to look lush without feeling
flat. Beyond the bright pops of lime green provided by bird’s nest fern and ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass, the unique, contrasting shapes
and textures combine to pique your interest. The subtle variety of forms, from the trailing button fern to the gentle vertical reach of
bird’s nest fern and fingerleaf rodgersia, creates movement from top to bottom without sacrificing fullness. The elements are united by
their color and full, dense habits, but their unique leaf shapes and textures create a breadth of interest and contrast.
1. Bird’s nest fern (Asplenium nidus, Zones 11–12)
2. Fingerleaf rodgersia (Rodgersia aesculifolia, Zones 5–8)
3. ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, Zones 5–9)
4. ‘Brad Thompson’ begonia (Begonia ‘Brad Thompson’, Zone 10)
Photo:
5. Button fern (Pellaea rotundifolia, Zones 9–11)
FG201EN.indd 33 7/13/21 1:28 PM

1
THICK, GLOSSY LEAVES REFLECT LOW LIGHT

TIP Place containers in indirect light to create the perfect microclimate for heart
ferns, bromeliads, and other delicate beauties. These light-sensitive plants are
Life after containers often passed over for more traditional options, but they will quickly become
favorites on a covered porch or in another protected area. Working within a
Perennials and tropical plants can have a life after coordinated palette of cool purple and rich green allows a seamless pairing
their time in mixed containers. Hardy perennials of unique ‘Dragon’ bromeliads with consistent favorites such as dark purple
can be transplanted out into your garden late in ‘Swinging Linda’ coleus and glossy green Persian shield for an arrangement
the season for you to enjoy again the following year, that highlights the best of the familiar and the unusual.
and any tropical plants can be potted up for use as 1. ‘Dragon’ bromeliad (Neoregelia ‘Dragon’, Zones 9–11)
houseplants after the growing season is over. 2. Persian shield (Strobilanthes dyeriana, Zones 8–11)
3. Heart fern (Hemionitis arifolia, Zone 10)
Photo:
4. ‘Swinging Linda’ coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides ‘Swinging Linda’,

Zones 9–12)
FG201EN.indd 34 7/13/21 1:28 PM

MIX ARCHITECTURAL FORMS
FOR INSTANT DRAMA
Make a style statement with your container design.
Here, architectural forms, geometric accents, and a
hexagon-patterned container create a structured feel
with a muted color palette. The scale of the nerve
plant against the much larger ming aralia produces
the feeling of a tropical jungle in miniature. ‘Medal-
lion’ prayer plant and starfish snake plant add bold
statement foliage, balancing the lacy texture of the
ming aralia, nerve plant, and ivy. Each element is
strong on its own, and bringing them together allows 1
these distinct forms to meld into a sweeping sculp-
tural arrangement with a bold character.
1. Ming aralia (Polyscias fruticosa, Zones 11–12)
2. ‘Medallion’ prayer plant
(Calathea roseopicta
‘Medallion’, Zone 10)
3. ‘Needlepoint’ English
ivy (Hedera helix*
‘Needlepoint’, Zones
6–10)
4. Nerve plant (Fittonia
albivenis, Zone 11)
5. Starfish snake plant
(Sansevieria cylindrica
‘Boncel’, Zone 10)
*See invasive alert on page 81. 2
3
Photo:
FG201EN.indd 35 7/13/21 1:29 PM

36
FG201EN.indd 36
2
FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 2021

3
4
1
7/13/21 1:29 PM
Photos, except where noted: Tracy Walsh. Photo p. 33, top: courtesy of Carolyn Weigel.
| technique |
Easy-peasy maintenance for

season-long performance
Interesting How is taking care of a container in the shade different from taking care of a container
texture begs in full sun? Does the limited light provide additional challenges—or does it provide
some advantages? These five care tips will answer your questions and keep your shade
for a touch
containers looking full and luscious all season long.
Even before you plant, choosing
the right container can help to 1. Low light doesn’t
inspire you and set the mood. If mean no light.
you are struggling to bring life to Even plants that thrive in the
a dark corner, a brightly colored shade still need some light.
container like this one will ensure Good locations for shade con-
that you start your design off on tainers include places that get
the right foot. For this bold con- dappled light, bright, indirect
tainer, we chose plants with lush light, or a limited amount of
mid-green tones such as Japanese direct light, such as 1 to 3 hours
painted fern and trailing water- per day.
melon begonia and then planted
them with citrus-colored plants
2. Avoid constant rotation
such as lime green foxtail fern and
with proper plant selection.
chartreuse, variegated ‘Dream
Shade containers are some-
Queen’ hosta. The muted color
times positioned to receive
palette allows textured foliage,
light from a single direction. If
such as that of the foxtail fern, to
this is true for your containers,
play a key role.
plant them with this in mind,
1. F oxtail fern keeping plants with medium
(Asparagus densiflorus light needs on the side that will
‘Myers’, Zones 9–11) receive the most light and fram-
2. Japanese painted fern ing them with plants that have
(Athyrium niponicum var. lower light requirements at the
pictum, Zones 4–9) back of the container.
3. ‘Dream Queen’ hosta
(Hosta ‘Dream Queen’, 3. Don’t give your containers
Zones 3–9) too much or too little water.
4. Creeping wire vine Containers receiving less light
(Muehlenbeckia axillaris, may require less water, but fac-
Zones 7–9) tors such as weather, location,
and container size play the
5. Trailing watermelon
most significant role. Keep in
begonia
mind that if your containers are
(Pellionia repens,
Photos, except where noted: Tracy Walsh. Photo p. 33, top: courtesy of Carolyn Weigel.
protected from the sun, they

Zones 10–12)
are also probably not receiving
as much rainwater as containers in more open locations. Just like you would with full-
sun containers, check the moisture remaining in the soil before watering. Allow the
top inch or two of soil to dry before adding more water.
4. Cut back foliage to correct legginess.

With proper plant choice, you shouldn’t notice any additional legginess in your shade
containers. If you do have a plant stretching to reach the light, though, a quick trim
will help it focus on creating more foliage and density. Trimming stretched-out plants
during midseason can also help maintain the shape and balance of your original
container creation.
5. Expect a slower growth rate.

You may notice that your shade plants don’t grow at the same speed as your plants
in sunnier locations. While this may seem like a downside, it actually allows you to
create a lush and full container at the beginning of the season that won’t easily become
overgrown. Individual plants tend to share the space more easily without trying to
outcompete each other. For this reason, designing and maintaining shade containers
is easier. Create your perfect combination, then sit back and enjoy it with minimal
maintenance all season long.
FG201EN.indd 37 7/13/21 1:29 PM

FRAME A BOLD
CENTERPIECE WITH
DELICATE SPILLERS
The spectacular and
bold foliage of ‘Triostar’
stromanthe and the dra-
matic height and color
of a blooming ‘Albertii’
bromeliad bring a tropi-
cal feel to this container.
These plants also contrast
with the delicate and airy
1 textures of supporting
players such as variegated
basket grass, ‘Chameleons
Way’ begonia, and ming
asparagus fern, creating a
pleasing visual balance in
the arrangement.
2 1. Parlor palm (Chamae-
dorea elegans,
Zones 10–11)
3 2. Ming asparagus fern
(Asparagus retrofractus,
Zones 9–11)
4 3. ‘Chameleons Way’
5
begonia (Begonia
‘Chameleons Way’,
Zones 10–11)
4. ‘Triostar’ stromanthe
(Stromanthe sanguinea
‘Triostar’, Zones 10–12)
5. ‘Albertii’ bromeliad
(Vriesea ‘Albertii’,
Zones 10–12)
6. Variegated basket
grass (Oplismenus
hirtellus ‘Variegatus’,
Zones 9–11)
BURGUNDY AND CHARTREUSE BATTLE FOR DOMINANCE

Playing with texture, form, and color is as fun in the shade as it is in the sun. The large, dark
leaves of ‘Burgundy’ rubber tree balance this earthy brown container display, creating a
perfect frame for the brighter colors at the center of the arrangement. ‘Everillo’ Japanese
sedge and ‘Hannibal Lecter’ bromeliad mirror each other in their draping forms, but their
contrasting textures ensure continued visual interest. Chartreuse foliage from ‘Everillo’ Japa-
nese sedge provides drama all season long and creates a bright focal point that beckons you
to stop and look, even when the pot is placed in a shady corner.
1. ‘Burgundy’ rubber tree (Ficus elastica ‘Burgundy’, Zones 10–12)
2. ‘White Butterfly’ arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum ‘White Butterfly’,
Zones 9–11)
3. ‘Hannibal Lecter’ bromeliad (Neoregelia ‘Hannibal Lecter’, Zones 9–11)
4. ‘Everillo’ Japanese sedge (Carex oshimensis ‘Everillo’, Zones 5–10)
5. ‘Little Beaver’ begonia (Begonia ‘Little Beaver’, Zone 10)
FG201EN.indd 38 7/13/21 1:29 PM

2
5
1
3 4
Scott Endres, Derrik Gagliardi, and Laura Mathews are designers and horticulturists at Tangletown Gardens in Minneapolis.
FG201EN.indd 39 7/13/21 1:29 PM

NATURALISTIC
PLANTING
If you mimic the look of nature, and add a little art of your own, you’ll have
a garden that is better for the environment and requires less work from you
BY STEVE AITKEN
It looks like it designed

itself. This garden in Illinois
designed by Adam Woodruff
features perennials arising
amid a sea of grasses.
FG201AI.indd 40 7/15/21 1:21 PM

FG201AI.indd 41 7/15/21 1:21 PM

A reason to like
fruitcake. If you
think of your garden
as a fruitcake—with
"matrix plants" such
as autumn moor
grass as the cake,
and "primary plants"
such as salvia as
the fruit—you can
understand the roles
and the placement
of the plants in a
naturalistic garden.
M
any gardens elicit a “Geez, how did they their book Planting: A New Perspective, Piet Oudolf and
do this?” response. It is not because of Noel Kingsbury define several essential kinds of plants.
massive hardscape or Versailles-level First are “matrix plants.” A matrix is a foundational
precision; rather, it is more of the sense structure in which something else develops or is
that these gardens appear perfectly natural yet utterly contained. Oudolf and Kingsbury use the analogy of
artful, as though when walking through a nature pre- a fruitcake, where the actual cake is considered the
serve you had stumbled upon the perfect spot at the matrix that holds the fruit. Matrix plants, therefore,
perfect time. But you are in a garden. are masses of ground cover plants that form the under-
No type of garden evokes this kind of reaction like a pinning of the design. If you hear “ground cover” and
naturalistic-style planting. You have probably seen such a think of low-growing plants that spread quickly, you are
design in a botanic garden, at the High Line in New York only partly correct. A gardener has many opportuni-
City, or in the pages of this magazine. Such gardens are ties to use plants in this role. A good matrix plant not
lush, every space filled with plants knitting together like only takes up space (thus limiting the opportunity for
it all happened naturally—except it didn’t. Somebody weeds to grow) but also doesn’t steal the show. Because
designed that. And you can design one too. these plants will be used in large numbers, their colors
Because they work with nature and not against it, should be soft. Their forms should be muted in interest
these designs are ecologically sound and reduce main- but always relatively tidy. Great options for creating a
tenance for the gardener. They rely on a diversity of matrix are perennials such as bigroot geranium (Gera-
plants growing together, protecting the soil, and pro- nium macrorrhizum and cvs., Zones 4–8), epimedium Photos pp. 40–43 and 44 (top): Adam Woodruff
viding for other living things. This means no twines or (Epimedium spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9), and grasses that
stakes, fewer wheelbarrows of mulch, and no need to stay relatively small, such as sedges (Carex spp. and cvs.,
weed. A brief look at two approaches to naturalistic Zones 2–9) and autumn moor grass (Seslaria autumna-
plantings will give you a sense of how you can create lis, Zones 5–9, photo p. 46).
these designs, no matter what size your landscape. Of course, no fruitcake can work with just cake.
It needs fruit. So to your matrix plants Oudolf and
Design with three Key Plant Types Kingsbury suggest adding “primary plants.” These plants
One of the key principles in designing a naturalistic are the most visually dominant in the design, relying
garden is understanding the roles certain plants play. In mostly on color and form to provide multiple seasons
FG201AI.indd 42 7/15/21 1:21 PM

| TIP |
Bulbs are a bright idea

Perhaps the unsung heroes of a
naturalistic planting are bulbs. They
provide seasonal structure and interest
throughout the year and are especially
valuable early on, when they appear
and do their thing while the other plants
bulk up. Then they disappear again
until next year. Sprinkling them in
randomly is easy, too, adding to
the spontaneous, natural feel
of a planting.
Photos pp. 40–43 and 44 (top): Adam Woodruff
No sun? No problem. While many naturalistic plantings look like full-sun meadows, the same concept can apply to
shade plantings. The matrix plants here are ostrich ferns (Matteuccia struthiopteris, Zones 3–7) instead of grasses.
FG201AI.indd 43 7/15/21 1:21 PM

scatter
plants
primary
plants
Matrix
plants
Photos this page, bottom: Jennifer Benner (left); Michelle Gervais (center and right). Photo facing page: Christa Brand/gapphotos.com. Illustrations: Elara Tanguy.
primary
plants
| design Options |
Plants that do the job

Now that you know the roles plants might play in a matrix-style design, here are some ideas to get your designs going.
Matrix plants Primary plants Scatter Plants

•B loody geranium (Geranium • ‘Chocolate’ white snakeroot •B lazing star (Liatris spicata and
sanguineum and cvs., Zones (Ageratina altissima ‘Chocolate’, cvs., Zones 3–9)
3–9) Zones 4–9) • Culver’s root (Veronicastrum
• Lambs’ ears (Stachys byzantina • Globe thistle (Echinops spp. virginicum and cvs., Zones 3–9)
and cvs., Zones 4–8) and cvs., Zones 3–8) • ‘Northwind’ switchgrass
• Moor grass (Molinia spp. and • ‘Jindai’ tatarian aster (Aster (Panicum virgatum ‘Northwind’,
cvs., Zones 4–9) tataricus ‘Jindai’, Zones 4–8) Zones 4–9)
• Tufted hair grass (Deschampsia • ‘Matrona’ sedum (Hyloteleph • Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina,
cespitosa, Zones 4–9) ium ‘Matrona’, Zones 3–9) Zones 3–8)
• Wild ginger (Asarum canadense, • Siberian iris (Iris sibirica cvs., • ‘Sun King’ aralia (Aralia cordata
Zones 4–6) Zones 3–8) ‘Sun King’, Zones 3–9)
Lambs’ ears Globe thistle ‘Northwind’ switchgrass

Photo:
FG201AI.indd 44 7/15/21 1:22 PM

PLANTING PLAN DETAILS
Photos this page, bottom: Jennifer Benner (left); Michelle Gervais (center and right). Photo facing page: Christa Brand/gapphotos.com. Illustrations: Elara Tanguy.
KEY
Primary plants Scatter plants Matrix plants
of interest. Repeated throughout a planting, primary

plants are used in a greater variety than matrix plants,
with some taking charge as other primary plants start
to fade in interest. May Night salvia (Salvia ‘Mainacht’,
Zones 5–9, photo p. 42), ‘Purple Smoke’ baptisia (Bap-
tisia australis ‘Purple Smoke’, Zones 3–9), or ‘Frances
Williams’ hosta (Hosta ‘Frances Williams’, Zones 3–9)
are all great candidates.
The third kind of plant helps bring the whole design
together. Dotted randomly throughout a design, “scat-
ter plants” enhance the natural feel of a design. They
should also add an extended period of structure or a
jolt of seasonal color. Planted individually but repeated
for unity and rhythm, plants like ninebark (Physocarpus
opulifolius and cvs., Zones 3–8, photo right), smokebush
(Cotinus coggygria and cvs., Zones 4–9), or ‘Skyracer’
purple moor grass (Molinia caerulea subsp. caerulea
‘Skyracer’, Zones 5–9) can serve this purpose.
ANOTHER APPROACH IS TO THINK IN LAYERS

In their book Planting in a Post-Wild World, Thomas
Rainer and Claudia West offer another way to think
about a naturalistic design. They encourage us to think That’s so random. In trying to create a planting that feels natural, you
Photo:
in terms of layers when creating this type of planting: a must add moments of randomness. This is where “scatter plants,” like
the burgundy ninebark at the back of this area, come in. Plant them in
design layer and a functional layer. “a group of one,” but repeat them so they don’t seem out of place.
FG201AI.indd 45 7/15/21 1:22 PM

| DESIGN OPTIONS |
What makes up the layers?

As you design with a layered approach, it helps to have a sense
of what your options are. Here are some examples of the types
of plants that can create each layer.
STRUCTURAL
PLANTS
Eastern redbud Daylily
STRUCTURAL PLANTS SEASONAL THEME

PLANTS
• Autumn Sun black-eyed
Susan (Rudbeckia ‘Herbst- • Bluebells (Mertensia spp.
sonne’, Zones 5–9) and cvs., Zones 3–8)
• Big bluestem (Andropogon • Bluestar (Amsonia spp.
gerardii and cvs., Zones 3–8) and cvs., Zones 4–9)
• Eastern redbud (Cercis • Coneflower (Echinacea
canadensis and cvs., spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9)
Zones 4–9) • Daylily (Hemerocallis cvs.,
• Eastern red cedar (Junipe- Zones 3–9)
rus virginiana, Zones 2–9) • Goldenrod (Solidago spp.
• Ironweed (Vernonia spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8)
and cvs., Zones 3–9)
Photo facing page, left: Rob Whitworth/gapphotos.com. Other photos facing page: Jennifer Benner
SEASONAL
THEME
PLANTS
(top left); Stephanie Fagan (top right); Michelle Gervais (bottom left and right).
California poppy Moor grass
FILLER PLANTS GROUND COVER PLANTS

• California poppy • Foam flower (Tiarella spp.
(Eschscholzia californica, and cvs., Zones 4–9)
Zones 7–10) • Golden groundsel (Packera
• Cardinal flower (Lobelia spp., Zones 3–8)
cardinalis, Zones 3–9) • Meehan’s mint (Meehania
• Columbine (Aquilegia cordata, Zones 4–8)
canadensis and cvs., • Moor grass (Seslaria spp.,
Zones 3–9) Zones 4–9)
GROUND COVER
PLANTS • Gaura (Oenothera • Prairie dropseed
lindheimeri and cvs., (Sporobolus heterolepis,
Zones 5–9) Zones 3–9)
• Red campion (Silene
dioica, Zones 5–9)
FG201AI.indd 46 7/15/21 1:22 PM

Planting plan
details
Design layer: Structural Plants

These plants are the bones of the design,
ensuring year-round presence.
Design Layer: Seasonal theme Plants

Using a wide variety of plants with peaks
at different times of the year ensures
continued waves of interest.
Functional Layer:
ground cover and
Filler plants
This layer functions as
a living mulch—one
you don't have to
replenish yearly.
Photo facing page, left: Rob Whitworth/gapphotos.com. Other photos facing page: Jennifer Benner
The main goal of the design layer is to provide aes- growing plants have soft shapes that weave around
thetic interest and a level of order or “legibility” so that and under the design layer. “Use them like you would
people can relate to the planting in a more meaningful mulch,” Rainer and West recommend. By planting a
way than if it were just a wild tangle of plants. This diversity of genera and species of ground cover plants,
(top left); Stephanie Fagan (top right); Michelle Gervais (bottom left and right).
layer is made up of two types of plants. Structural you provide a greater benefit to a greater number of
plants are large plants that make up the backbone of insects and wildlife. Also in this layer are what they call
the design. These trees, shrubs, or tall perennials should “filler plants.” These are short-lived, reseeding plants
have distinct shapes and year-round presence. Without that can fill gaps, cover ground, and provide interest
these plants, the design will collapse. The second type while the long-term players in the design get up to size.
of plant in the design layer are seasonal theme plants, The similarity in the approaches of the designers
whose visual dominance peaks at various times of the mentioned is easy to see, but there is much more to
year. Their purpose is to heighten interest in the design, these concepts than we can get into here. If you are still
increase its legibility, and soften the structural plants a little intimidated to try them out for yourself, don’t
they surround. The variety of seasonal theme plants be. A naturalistic design can be scaled to any size bed
should be such that certain plants create visual interest or landscape. Feel free to start small and expand from
as others have finished their show. there—unless you enjoy hauling wheelbarrows full of
The functional layer of a planting provides the eco- mulch around.
logical benefit, providing sustenance and shelter for
insects, keeping down weeds, and protecting the soil.
Steve Aitken is editor at large.
Similar to Oudolf’s matrix plants, these generally low-
FG201AI.indd 47 7/15/21 1:22 PM

De s i g n er / Q&A
Putting it into practice

Once we understand some of the concepts of naturalistic design, questions of a more practical nature tend to pop up. We reached
out to landscape architect Thomas Rainer and garden designer Piet Oudolf to get some answers.
Q. Can a naturalistic garden be done on a smaller scale?

Thomas Rainer: The tools for making a naturalistic garden—layering compatible species
one on top of another—are ideal for small-space gardens. When you have limited room,
there’s so much pressure for each plant to look good for as long as possible. This is often
“Expert” photos this page: Rob Cardillo, courtesy of Thomas Rainier (top); courtesy of Piet Oudolf (bottom). Chart photos, from left to right and top to bottom: Stephanie Fagan (2); Steve Aitken;
why so many suburban gardens rely on gaudy meatballs that never change. With natural-
istic layering, you can literally get more flowers out of a small space by layering dynamic
Bill Johnson; Steve Aitken; Jennifer Benner; FG staff; Jennifer Benner; Ann E. Stratton; Michelle Gervais; Adrian Bloom/gapphotos.com; Jennifer Benner. Bottom photos: Michelle Gervais.
plants on top of each other (see below).
meet The experts
Imagine this seasonal planting with wave after wave of color

Thomas Rainer
Landscape architect based
followed by
followed by
in Virginia, whose work can
be seen at the New York
Botanical Garden and the
U.S. Capitol
March: April: Triandrus daffodils (Narcissus cvs., May: Eastern bee balm
Crocuses Zones 4–9), species tulips (Tulipa spp., (Monarda bradburiana,
(Crocus spp. Zones 3–8), and golden groundsel Zones 5–8) and ‘Caradonna’
and cvs., sage (Salvia nemorosa
Zones 3–8) ‘Caradonna’, Zones 4–8)
followed by
followed by
followed by
June: Calamint (Calamintha July: ‘Millenium’ August: ‘Iron Butterfly’
spp. and cvs., Zones 5–9) allium (Allium ‘Mille- ironweed (Vernonia ‘Iron
and butterfly weed (Asclepias nium’, Zones 5–8) Butterfly’, Zones 4–9)
Piet Oudolf tuberosa, Zones 3–9)
Renowned garden designer
from the Netherlands who
fall: Showy aster (Aster spectabilis, Zones 4–8) and
has designed gardens all
followed by
prairie dropseed
Photos this page: Ellen Rooney (top); Graham Corney/dreamstime.com (bottom)

over the world
Q. Much of the matrix seems to be made up of grasses. Does this leave a gap in
interest while they bulk up?
Piet Oudolf: Grasses that are used as a
atrix are not late developing. Use plants
m
like sedges and moor grass and other grass
species that are already present in early
spring. Filling up temporary gaps left by late-
developing grasses can be done, but the
plants will probably die when they are covered
later in the year. A good matrix is closed like
a carpet. Spring ephemerals, however, will
survive because they go dormant in summer.
Sedge Moor grass
FG201AI.indd 48 7/15/21 1:22 PM

Q. During the
planting phase,
which should
Q. Approximately
how much of a
planting should
we put in first— consist of matrix
the matrix plants?
plants or the PO: The percentages for a
primary and matrix range from at least
“Expert” photos this page: Rob Cardillo, courtesy of Thomas Rainier (top); courtesy of Piet Oudolf (bottom). Chart photos, from left to right and top to bottom: Stephanie Fagan (2); Steve Aitken;
30% up to 50%, depending

scatter plants? on the diversity you intend
Bill Johnson; Steve Aitken; Jennifer Benner; FG staff; Jennifer Benner; Ann E. Stratton; Michelle Gervais; Adrian Bloom/gapphotos.com; Jennifer Benner. Bottom photos: Michelle Gervais.
to bring in.
PO: Planting order is impor-
tant. If you set out the
primary plants and scatter
plants first, it makes it
50%
easier. You can then fill in
the open space with the 30%
matrix. When you first set
out the matrix, it is more When it is time for planting, place your primary
complicated to fill in with the plants (like the purple coneflower here) first before
individuals if you want to filling in around them with your matrix plants.
make changes.
Q.
| FOR FURTHER READING |
What advice do you have for someone who There is much more to
naturalistic garden design
would like to adapt an existing bed to a than will fit in one article.
designed plant community? If you would like to read

more about the topic, here
TR: It’s easy to convert existing beds as long as you match plants to the site conditions. are some options.
Is it a hot, dry, and stressful area? Stick with stress-tolerant plants such as muhly grass
(Muhlenbergia spp., Zones 5–9) or ‘Little Rascal’ sulphur buckwheat (Eriogonum allenii
‘Little Rascal’, Zones 5–9). Is your bed full of moist, rich soil? That is ideal for competitive PLANTING IN
plants such as switchgrass (Panicum virgatum and cvs., Zones 3–9) or giant coneflower A POST-WILD
(Rudbeckia maxima, Zones 4–9). Is your bed frequently disturbed, like a hell strip along a WORLD:
sidewalk? Try ruderal self-sowing species that will be activated by the disturbance, such Designing Plant
as wild petunia (Ruellia humilis, Zones 4–8) or columbine (Aquilegia canadensis and cvs., Communities
Zones 3–9). When you match the plant community to the site condition, it’s easy to adapt. for Resilient
Landscapes
Photos this page: Ellen Rooney (top); Graham Corney/dreamstime.com (bottom)
by Thomas Rainer
Q.
and Claudia West
Plants in a designed plant

community will knit PLANTING:
together to keep weeds

A New
Perspective
down. What do you do by Piet Oudolf
before they have time to

and Noel
Kingsbury
grow together?
TR: We mulch with a thin layer of quick THE KNOW
decomposing mulch: leaf mold in shady MAINTE-
situations, compost in average soil, or NANCE
even fine gravels in hot, sunny sites prior PERENNIAL
to planting. Then we plant into that mulch. GARDEN
If you plant at the right times in spring or by Roy Diblik
fall, that density typically closes within a
few months. It’s a method designed to
Leaf mold
minimize weeding.
FG201AI.indd 49 7/15/21 1:22 PM

Clippings are fed back into
this all-natural expanse
each time it is mowed.
Using a mulching mower, grow-
ing a mix of resilient plant
species, and preparing the soil
with no-till techniques are all
earth-friendly ways to green up
your lawn-maintenance routine.
Green solutions
for lawn care
Build your earth-friendly yard with healthy soil and a diverse plant community
By Linda Chalker-Scott
P
atience is the key ingredient when creating
sustainable landscapes that include lawns.
The “quick and easy” approach—tilling the
soil, working in amendments, rolling the soil to cre-
ate a level base, and laying down sod held together
with plastic mesh—is guaranteed to result in failure
over time. These practices and products damage
soil structure and add excessive levels of organic
matter and nutrients. They also injure and kill soil
biota. The mirage of a perfect lawn soon fades when
nature begins to repair the damage.
Instead, gardeners can create robust, biodiverse
lawns that provide space for pets, play, and relax-
ation by working with natural processes that protect
the underlying soil. The following is a science-based
approach for installing and managing a lawn that is
both resilient and aesthetically pleasing.
FG201CH.indd 50 7/2/21 11:32 AM

Ground covers are pretty between pavers. Use
plants suited to your growing conditions, like blue star
creeper (Isotoma fluviatilis, Zones 6–9, above) for full
sun. For partial shade with plenty of moisture, Oregon
oxalis (Oxalis oregana, Zones 7–9) and Pink Panda straw-
berry (Fragaria ‘Frel’, Zones 3–9, below) pair perfectly.
2
use a light touch when
Preparing the soil
Using no-till techniques for soil preparation will protect
soil structure and health. It is also much less work and
provides much better results. Here is my process.
• Remove all vegetation by mowing as close
to the ground as possible, then cover the scalped
area with an 8- to 12-inch layer of arborist wood
chips—not bark. You can obtain these from any tree
service. Fresh chips are preferable and give an extra
nutrient boost. Doing this excludes sunlight that
1 supports weeds without interfering with water and
oxygen entering the soil.
select your plant Palette • Leave the mulch in place until all covered plant
thoughtfully material is dead and decomposing. Simply pull some
mulch aside to check, and then replace it if more time
Before you decide what species to include in your lawn is needed.
mix, think about the function of your lawn. If it is a heav-
ily traveled area, particularly by pets or children, select • Remove chips for use elsewhere in your landscape.
the toughest grass species available. Consider tolerance Your soil bed is now ready to plant.
not only to foot traffic but also to stressful environmental
conditions such as heat and drought. Contact your state Pile it on.
university extension office, or check out its website for An 8- to
species recommendations relevant to your location. 12-inch layer
For areas that will not be heavily compacted by foot of mulch is a
traffic, you can enjoy a more curated collection of lot deeper than
ground covers. Adding pavers to create a meandering mulch is nor-
path helps protect more-fragile species and enhances mally applied,
the design. For ideas, look at older, lightly maintained but it’s the
lawns in your area. Besides grasses, what commonly right amount
grows there that you like? In my location in the Pacific for this job.
Northwest, we have a plethora of native mosses that Fresh arbor-
happily grow where turf grass is less vigorous. How ist chips—a
about creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum, Zones 4–8), mix of wood,
violets (Viola spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), or primroses foliage, and
(Primula spp. and cvs., Zones 4–8)? All of these can twigs—add
bring beauty to your lawn as well as attract pollinators. nutrients to the
Choose species that will remain low growing; they will soil as they
tolerate mowing. A multispecies mix has greater envi- break down.
ronmental resilience—that means fewer weeds, fewer
pests and diseases, and more beneficial soil organisms,
insects, and other desirable fauna.
FG201CH.indd 51 7/15/21 1:23 PM

3
choose Seed over sod
Consider the lawns you see in older estates and parks. These lawns were established by seeding, with no rototillers, sod farms, or bags of purchased
compost involved. Why not try a seeded lawn at home? Here are the steps to follow.
Photos, except where noted: Carol Collins. Other photos: courtesy of Linda Chalker-Scott (p. 51, top left and bottom left; p. 53, top right).
a. Sow grass seed, and the seeds of other b. Cover seed with a thin layer of c. Keep the seed bed well hydrated
species if you like, following the supplier’s straw (not hay) to keep seed in place to optimize seed germination and seedling
instructions. If possible, avoid walking over and enhance the retention of water. growth. Avoid walking on, mowing, or other
the sowed area. wise disturbing the lawn until the grass is
well established.
4
If you must use sod,
keep it natural
If a seeded lawn isn’t practical for you, or if your weed seed bank
(those seeds lurking in the soil) is robust, there are ways to lay a
sod lawn that avoid the problems mentioned earlier.
• Choose a sod
that is grown on
biodegradable
material, such as jute.
• cut YOUR OWn
sod if you have
access to an existing
lawn, then reinstall it.
• Keep the sod well watered
to encourage root establishment.
• Avoid walking on or mowing
the sod until it is well established.
Good sod is worth saving. It takes time to move a natural lawn and the
soil life it supports, but the task is not difficult. Work when the soil is slightly
damp but not wet, cut the sod into manageable chunks, and piece them back
together in the new location.
FG201CH.indd 52 7/2/21 11:33 AM

5
follow a
few dos and
don’ts
Now that you have
a newly established
lawn to love, avoid
all of those tips and
tonics that are in the
popular gardening
multiverse. They aren’t
science-based, they
don’t work, and they | soil science |
can cause real damage
to soil, plants, and the Appreciate
environment. We can
boil down natural lawn
Don’t use pesticides magical
mushrooms
of any kind
Photos, except where noted: Carol Collins. Other photos: courtesy of Linda Chalker-Scott (p. 51, top left and bottom left; p. 53, top right).
care to some pretty

standard practices.
A great indicator of
Don’t add fertilizer. If a soil test reveals a significant deficiency in some soil and plant health

key nutrient, add only that nutrient and nothing else. is the appearance of
fungi in a lawn. The
Do use a mulching lawn mower. This returns nutrients to the soil. fruiting bodies of
an important under-
Don’t use pesticides of any kind. That means no fungicides, no herbi- ground community,
cides,
and no insecticides. These products disrupt the balance of the lawn they often appear in
ecosystem by eliminating entire groups of organisms, which invites pest and the fall after we’ve
disease problems. And don’t try to get rid of those mushrooms that pop up in stopped mowing. Ma-
your lawn; they are crucial for soil and plant health (see sidebar, right). ny (if not all) of these
fungal species are my-
o remove weeds by hand. Pull them out when you first notice them,
D corrhizal, which means
especially noxious weeds or those that spread aggressively. At the same time, they create a fine
this is a good opportunity to rethink exactly what a weed is in your lawn. Some network of rootlike
of those weeds could become part of your ground cover medley. structures that serve
as a beneficial link be-
tween plant roots and
Do remove soil nutrients. Once
weeds by hand they have inoculated
receptive roots, they
increase water up-
take, increase nutrient
uptake, and prevent
pathogens from colo-
nizing roots.
If you don’t like the
look of these fungi
(I think they are ador-
able), you can pluck
them off and toss
them into the compost
pile or a mulched bed.
But unless you are a
trained mycologist,
don’t eat them!
Contributing editor Linda Chalker-Scott is a professor of horticulture and an extension specialist at Washington State University
in Puyallup, Washington.
FG201CH.indd 53 7/15/21 1:23 PM

| P L A N T T R I A L R E S U LT S
The best plant

you’re not
growing
‘ARNHEM’ GREAT
BURNET
Photo:
54 FINE GARDENING | DATE 20XX
FG201HA.indd 54 7/2/21 11:36 AM

These perennials are the ultimate
choice for bridging the gap between
summer and fall
BY RICHARD HAWKE
I
AT A GLANCE
have no recollection of burnets—native or cul-
tivated—before my back-to-back encounters
with great burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis) in
the South Korean countryside and on the grassy spp. and cvs.
steppes of Siberia. The sight of its curious purple-

red flowers wind-dancing on tall wiry stems stayed ZONES: 4–9
with me, kindling thoughts about burnets in the CONDITIONS: Full sun
garden and wondering why they weren’t more to partial shade; moist,
commonly grown—or even known—back home. well-drained soil
It was an encounter with ‘Tanna’—a seriously NATIVE RANGE:
scaled-down version of great burnet—several years Northern regions
later that piqued my interest in doing a trial. The of North America,
Europe, and Asia
neat, dwarf mounds made the species seem almost
unruly by comparison, and contrary to my usual PESTS: Deer, rabbits,
dislike for miniaturizing tall perennials, I found and Japanese beetles
‘Tanna’ to be a charming exception. DISEASES: Leaf spot,
But burnets still feel a bit obscure to me, which powdery mildew
is not a commentary on their traits or garden value PROPAGATION:
but has more to do with their lack of availability or Seed or division
visibility. My appreciation for burnets has grown
steadily as more and more selections have come to
market, but burnets are still less common here than
in England and continental Europe. In 2019 at the
Chicago Botanic Garden, we amassed a collection
of burnets that was nearly four times larger than
the original trial we conducted twenty years earlier.
Gardeners’ interest in burnets must be growing too,
with new cultivars showing up in nursery catalogs
every year. It’s easy to understand why their popu-
larity is increasing, especially when these whimsical
plants burst into bloom in early summer, attracting
pollinators aplenty. For me, great burnet’s burgundy
drumsticks are botanically intriguing, but Korean
burnet’s (S. hakusanensis) bushy squirrel tails wrig-
gling in the breeze are simply fabulous. You can
decide which one you like most; of course, nothing
says you must limit yourself to just one. There were
plenty of top performers in our trial.
Photo:
‘LILAC SQUIRREL’
KOREAN BURNET
FG201HA.indd 55 7/15/21 1:24 PM

Top performers to try
‘Pink Tanna’ burnet (S. ‘Pink Tanna’) is a fantastic
plant, but that is where its affinity to ‘Tanna’ ends.
Pretty pink flowers with long pale-pink-to-whitish
stamens have a soft, shaggy look. The vertical or
slightly curved bottlebrushes—up to 1¼ inches
when elongated—profusely cover the plants from
midsummer to early fall. The flowers were always
lighter in color than I expected and aged to a darker
pink for what seemed like just a minute before
turning brown. The narrow, pleated green leaves
held on red stems were always healthy and lush.
Japanese beetles occasionally marred this burnet’s
complexion but were never too troublesome. At
50 inches tall, ‘Pink Tanna’ was one of the tallest,
sturdiest burnets, admirably holding itself upright
all summer long.
The likeness to great burnet is clear, but ‘Tanna’

burnet (S. ‘Tanna’) is more than just a dwarf version
of the taller species. ‘Tanna’—sometimes listed as
a hybrid, sometimes not—has a compact, refined
habit. It showed signs of its rhizomatous nature but
never spread widely. The dark burgundy, egg-shaped
flower heads look more like fruits than flowers;
in fact, the rich color remains into midfall as seed
is developing. In my mind, ‘Tanna’ has tiny flow-
ers perfectly matched to its small ferny leaves and
dwarf habit, but the reality is that its flowers were
a bit larger than those of great burnet. As much as I
like ‘Tanna’, some might still favor the full-size heft
of great burnet a little more.
‘Little Angel’ dwarf burnet is cute. (There, I said

it.) Diminutive in all aspects, ‘Little Angel’ (S. offi
cinalis var. microcephala ‘Little Angel’) isn’t even a
foot tall. The small leaves are trimmed in white and
densely held in tight, compact mounds. Variegation
aside, this tiny burnet closely resembles ‘Tanna’. The
purple-red flowers are little, though (only half an
inch long), but they blanket the plant from mid to
late summer. The color fades more quickly than that
of ‘Tanna’, but the deadheads are not really distract-
ing. ‘Little Angel’ was not nibbled by deer like taller
burnets; I wonder if it was just too short for alert
deer eating on the fly to notice.
‘Lilac Squirrel’ Korean burnet (S. hakusanensis

‘Lilac Squirrel’, p. 59) has the most dramatic flow-
ers of them all. Playful purple-pink squirrel tails
‘Pink Tanna’ burnet
FG201HA.indd 56 7/2/21 11:37 AM

| TRIAL PARAMETERS |
The Chicago Botanic Garden
is currently evaluating 26
different burnets in compara-
tive trials, which started in
‘TANNA’ BURNET
2019. Since 2000, 35 burnets
have been evaluated in two
separate trials.
• HOW LONG: Minimum
four years
• ZONE: 5b
• CONDITIONS: Full sun;
well-drained, alkaline,
clay-loam soil
• CARE: We provided
minimal care, allowing
the plants to thrive or fail
under natural conditions.
Besides observing their
ornamental traits, we
monitored the plants to
see how well they grew
and adapted to environ-
mental and soil condi-
tions while keeping a
close eye on any disease
or pest problems and
assessing plant injury or
losses over winter.
‘LITTLE ANGEL’
DWARF BURNET
FG201HA.indd 57 7/2/21 11:37 AM

58
FG201HA.indd 58
Canadian burnet
Fine Gardening | october 2021

Top performers to try
Photos: Rob Whitworth/gapphotos.com (p. 54); Stephanie Fagan (p. 55); Visions/gapphotos.com (p. 56); courtesy of Richard Hawke (p. 57, top left and inset; p. 59, left); Danielle Sherry (p. 57, bottom); millettephotomedia.com (p. 58); Nova Photo Graphik/gapphotos.com (p. 59, right).
7/2/21 11:37 AM
Photos: Rob Whitworth/gapphotos.com (p. 54); Stephanie Fagan (p. 55); Visions/gapphotos.com (p. 56); courtesy of Richard Hawke (p. 57, top left and inset; p. 59, left); Danielle Sherry (p. 57, bottom); millettephotomedia.com (p. 58); Nova Photo Graphik/gapphotos.com (p. 59, right).
‘Lilac Squirrel’ Korean burnet
on raspberry-hued stalks nod elegantly from early

summer nearly to frost. An abundance of long pink
stamens give ‘Lilac Squirrel’ its signature shaggi-
ness. The pendulous blooms gradually elongate to
‘Pink Elephant’
an impressive 8 inches before the color fades from oriental burnet
light pink to drab white; prompt deadheading is
time well spent. The tidy mounds of handsome tinuing to open into mid-autumn. Deadheading is
gray-green leaves are 20 inches tall and 24 inches key, however, because the aging flowers are distract-
wide, and the floral stems reach a lax 34 inches tall. ing when there are more brown spikes than fresh
At full size, the hefty flowers bow the stems, which blooms visible.
lean sharply to nearly horizontal at times, making
the plant look borderline messy or, at best, informal. The flowers of ‘Pink Elephant’ Oriental burnet
Giving it close neighbors—something it does not (S. tenuifolia ‘Pink Elephant’) open pink, then turn
have in a well-spaced trial—is the support it needs light maroon with whitish stamens in 2-inch-long
to kiss the sky rather than the ground. curved to pendent plumes. While not as dramatic
as ‘Lilac Squirrel’, this burnet has an eye-catching
Canadian burnet (S. canadensis) is big, although profusion of slim spikes atop tall stems from mid-
at 34 inches tall, our plants have only gained half summer to early fall. The narrow plants were erect
their potential height. The green pinnate leaves and throughout the summer months; however, browning
robust bushy plants look great from spring to fall— flower stems right down to the light green leaves
no lax stems here. Erect white spikes, to 5 inches at in early fall were a low point. The robust bushy
full length, sport shorter stamens than ‘Lilac Squir- mounds displayed a unique trait among the burnets:
rel’ and so are not as bushy. The flowers open along The lowest tier of leaves rested on the ground, while
the spikes from the bottom upward rather than the the others were strictly vertical. Unfortunately, the
top down like many burnets. The long bloom season tall stems were buffet height for roaming deer, so
starts in midsummer, with new flower spikes con- flowers were occasionally browsed.
FG201HA.indd 59 7/2/21 11:37 AM

New kids worthy of a second look
Robust ‘Blackthorn’ burnet (S. ‘Black-

thorn’) was one of the largest of all the
burnets after just two years in the garden.
In fact, it’s now only about 20 inches shy
of its expected 6-foot height. The crown
of pink flowers accentuates the drama—
3-inch-long vertical spikes sit atop tall,
red-tinged stems beginning in late sum-
mer. Black-tipped, light pink stamens
Photos this page: courtesy of Richard Hawke (top left); Clare Gainey/gapphotos.com (top right); John Martin/gapphotos.com (bottom). Photos facing page: John Martin/gapphotos.com
create a hazy nimbus over the rosy pink
sepals, which in turn darken slightly after
the stamens drop and remain colorful
into late fall. Sturdy stems were the rule,
with one or two leaning stems in midfall
the exception. ‘Blackthorn’ was the last
burnet to bloom naturally (not due to
deer browsing), giving us plenty of time
to appreciate its lush, shiny green foliage.
‘Pacific Pewter’ burnet (S. ‘Pacific Pewter’)

caught my eye before it ever flowered—it
has by far the most beautiful foliage of the
burnets, which is saying a lot. The large,
powder blue–green leaves are reminiscent
of honeybush (Melianthus major, Zones
8–11), a South African native plant with
exotic blue foliage. ‘Pacific Pewter’ has
(top); courtesy of Richard Hawke (bottom left and right).

more than a passing resemblance to ‘Lilac
Squirrel’—it is a hybrid between S. haku
sanensis and S. menziesii—although at
3 inches long, its lovely purple flowers are
not nearly as flamboyant. The blooms rise
up on red wiry stems above neat mounds
from midsummer to late fall. The flower
show is pleasant, but the nodding spikes
pull down the stems, resulting in a relaxed
look. This is one time I might sacrifice some
flower stems late in the season to improve
the view to the handsome foliage.
FG201HA.indd 60 7/2/21 11:37 AM

Photos this page: courtesy of Richard Hawke (top left); Clare Gainey/gapphotos.com (top right); John Martin/gapphotos.com (bottom). Photos facing page: John Martin/gapphotos.com
‘Red Thunder’ great burnet (S. officinalis ‘Red Thunder’)

is a superior form of great burnet that was selected by
Piet Oudolf from seed collected in Korea. I had the good
fortune of seeing this species growing in the wild in South
Korea, a truly magnificent sight. Thus far, ‘Red Thunder’
has kept a dense, compact habit but is expected to top
Knowing nothing about a plant when a trial begins off at 3 to 4 feet tall. Bushy mounds of green leaves were
ensures objectivity, but sometimes it just confuses smothered in a cloud of deep burgundy-red drumstick
us. It took me a year to discover that ‘Candlelight’ flowers from midsummer to early fall. ‘Red Thunder’ was
Canadian burnet (S. canadensis ‘Candlelight’) was one of the stars of 2020, notable for its uniformity and
supposed to have yellow foliage—and yes, the name strong floral show.
should have been a clue. My first impression was
that it was sick, although the color certainly did not
point to any nutrient deficiency I knew. ‘Candle-
light’ has the striking texture of Canadian burnet
foliage, but lovely hints of glowing yellow suffuse
the green leaflets—many are fully golden! White
bottlebrush flowers beginning in late summer (this
is one of the last burnets to bloom) play nicely off
the colorful foliage. The burnished glow is enhanced
as days shorten. In its second summer, it formed
bushy mounds with flower stems doubling the
overall height. Powdery mildew was a minor issue
in midsummer but was not distracting.
(top); courtesy of Richard Hawke (bottom left and right).
The vibrant, raspberry pink flowers of ‘Arnhem’ great burnet

(S. officinalis ‘Arnhem’) are a delicious departure from the
usual burgundy. The compact 1-inch spikes are borne gener-
ously on strictly upright, branching stems from early summer
to early fall. The green pinnate foliage is densely packed into
bushy mounds about half the height of the nearly 3-foot
flower stems. I am most excited by the prospect of ‘Arnhem’ soaring to over 6 feet in the coming years—the smallish
flowers will be more dramatic at eye level or bobbing above my head. Leaf spot was a slight problem beginning in
midsummer, but the plants reacted by putting out an abundance of new leaves that masked the damaged ones. The
flower stems turned brown and twiggy later; you can live with it (like I did) or remove the unsightly parts.
FG201HA.indd 61 7/2/21 11:38 AM

| PLANT STATS |
Did someone say
pollinator plant? Get the bigger picture of burnet
Burnet flowers are Burnets are easy to grow, have great textural foliage, stay mostly disease-free, and
delightful in any size put on a supremely unique bloom show from summer into fall, when much of the
or color, from great garden looks fried. Here are a few other things to know about these interesting
perennials.
burnet’s understated
bobbles to Korean • CONSISTENT MOISTURE IS KEY
burnet’s eye-popping Burnets do not like droughty or
soggy soil, although drier sites
tassels. Based on the with irrigation are fine.
flurry of midsummer
• THEY ARE BEST DIVIDED IN
activity, butterflies, SPRING OR FALL
bees, and other pollina- These are rhizomatous herba-
tors appear to agree! ceous perennials that spread
through an underground stem
that often sends out roots and
shoots from its nodes. It’s best
to divide congested plants in
spring or autumn to prevent
larger clumps from getting
center dieback.
• SELF-SOWING IS COMMON
Burnets hybridize readily, leading
to the possibility of unique seed-
lings; however, seed is abundantly
produced and can self-sow vigorously. Deadheading curtails self-seeding and can
Photos this page, clockwise from top left: Robert Mabic/gapphotos.com; Danielle Sherry; dreamstime.com; Stephanie Fagan
enhance the late-season foliar display, since declining flowers—especially white
ones—are not so pretty.
• CERTAIN PESTS CAN BE PESKY
I wish that I could say burnets are trouble-free (as some ref-
erences do), but deer, rabbits, and Japanese beetles were
all annoying nibblers. Damage from Japanese beetles was
usually a minor cosmetic blip—their flagrant intimacy was
far more disturbing—whereas deer and rabbits seriously
affected habit quality and flower display by reducing or
delaying bloom.
• THEIR FLOWERS ARE UNIQUE
Burnet blossoms are in fact an inflorescence—the many-flowered spikes may be
fingerlike spires, arching bottlebrushes, or compact raspberry-like knobs. Instead of
having true petals, each tiny flower has
colorful sepals and few to many exserted
stamens, which brings both color and
texture to the show. Indeed, bosses of
especially long and showy stamens are
what make some burnets look so fluffy.
• FOLIAR VARIATION IS A BONUS
Flowers are certainly the main draw of
burnets, but their pinnately dissected
leaves—from delicate to boldly tex-
tured—are beautiful all on their own.
Green, blue-green, and gray-green are
common colors, while leaflets haloed in
white or splashed and dotted with yellow
are pleasing novelties. Distinctive saw-
toothed margins heighten the textural
treat. The number of leaflets vary by
species—ranging from 7 to 20—but are
always odd-numbered because the termi-
nal leaflet is not paired like the rest.
FG201HA.indd 62 7/2/21 11:38 AM

Rating Sanguisorba Height Width Flower Color Flower Bloom Period Flower Foliage
Length Coverage Color
NR S. ‘Blackthorn’ 52 in. 48 in. rosy pink and 3 in. late summer to late fall excellent green
light pink
NR S. ‘Pacific Pewter’ 26 in. 28 in. purple 3 in. midsummer to late fall excellent blue-green
★★★★ S. ‘Pink Tanna’ 50 in. 36 in. pink and white 1¼ in. midsummer to early fall excellent green
NR S. ‘Sweet Caroline’ 40 in. 40 in. light pink 1¼ in. midsummer to early fall excellent green
★★★★ S. ‘Tanna’ 25 in. 32 in. dark burgundy ¾ in. midsummer to early fall excellent green
★★★★ S. canadensis 34 in. 34 in. white 5 in. midsummer to late fall excellent green
NR S. canadensis 26 in. 29 in. white 2½ in. late summer to late fall good yellow and
‘Candlelight’ green
★★★ S. hakusanensis 30 in. 32 in. purple-pink 4 in. early summer to midfall good gray-green
★★★★ S. hakusanensis 34 in. 24 in. purple-pink 8 in. early summer to late fall excellent gray-green
‘Lilac Squirrel’
★★★ S. menziesii 47 in. 27 in. dark pink–purple 3 in. early summer to midsummer excellent blue-green
★★★ S. menziesii 45 in. 39 in. dark red–purple 1½ in. midsummer to late fall good green, white
‘Dali Marble’ margins
★★ S. minor 19 in. 38 in. green, red 1 in. late spring to early summer excellent blue-green
NR S. obtusa 19 in. 38 in. bright purple– 3 in. midsummer to late fall good blue-green
pink
★★★ S. officinalis 60 in. 45 in. purple-red ½ in. midsummer to early fall excellent green
NR S. officinalis ‘Arnhem’ 34 in. 26 in. raspberry pink 1 in. early summer to early fall excellent green
NR S. officinalis 26 in. 18 in. did not flower green
Photos this page, clockwise from top left: Robert Mabic/gapphotos.com; Danielle Sherry; dreamstime.com; Stephanie Fagan
‘Chocolate Tip’
NR S. officinalis 36 in. 24 in. did not flower green
‘Crimson Queen’
NR S. officinalis 18 in. 18 in. dark burgundy ½ in. midsummer to midfall excellent green
‘Hime Waremoko’
★★★ S. officinalis 40 in. 34 in. deep red–purple ¾ in. late summer to late fall excellent green, yellow
‘Lemon Splash’ speckled
★★★★ S. officinalis var. 10 in. 22 in. purple-red ½ in. midsummer to late summer excellent green, white
microcephala margins
‘Little Angel’
NR S. officinalis 20 in. 26 in. purple-red ¾ in. midsummer to early fall excellent green
‘Red Thunder’
NR S. officinalis 35 in. 42 in. deep rosy pink 1 in. early fall to early winter excellent light green,
‘Shiro-Fukurin’ creamy
margins
★★★ S. tenuifolia 70 in. 28 in. white 2 in. midsummer to early fall good dark green
★★★ S. tenuifolia 59 in. 30 in. pink and maroon 2 in. midsummer to early fall excellent light green
‘Pink Elephant’
NR S. tenuifolia var. alba 32 in. 20 in. white 2½ in. early summer to midfall fair dark green
| Rating key | SOURCES

• Digging Dog Nursery, Albion, CA; 707-937-1130; diggingdog.com
★★★★★ Excellent ★★ Fair • Far Reaches Farm, Port Townsend, WA; 360-385-5114; farreachesfarm.com
★★★★ Great ★ Poor • Edelweiss Perennials, Canby, OR; edelweissperennials.com
★★★ Good NR not rated (too new to the trial) • Plant Delights Nursery, Raleigh, NC; 919-772-4794; plantdelights.com
Richard Hawke is plant evaluation manager at the Chicago Botanic Garden in Glencoe, Illinois.
FG201HA.indd 63 7/2/21 11:38 AM

Bring IN
THE Birds
THE RIGHT NATIVE PLANT SPECIES
CAN MAKE YOUR GARDEN AN AVIAN HAVEN
BY WILLIAM CULLINA
The best bird feeders

are planted, not built.
Adding native trees,
shrubs, and perennials
to your garden is a great
way to provide much-
needed food and habitat
for our feathered friends.
Photo:
Photo:
FG201CU.indd 64 7/2/21 11:40 AM

I
feel very fortunate to live near a trib-
utary of the Delaware River, a stop
on the great Atlantic flyway used by
songbirds and raptors as they migrate
between Central and South America
and the northeastern United States each
year. As I write this, birdsong is drift-
ing in through an open window, a sweet
cacophony that hides a troubling trend.
Songbirds are disappearing.
Habitat loss, pesticides, and the accom-
panying decline of insect populations
have contributed to a loss of 25 to 30
percent of North American songbirds
since 1970. (In that time, the populations
of some year-round resident species such
as robins have increased, likely due to
their affinity for suburban landscapes.)
A bright spot has been among waterfowl
such as ducks and geese, which have
seen their numbers increase overall since
1970. Scientists surmise that this is due
to stricter hunting regulations and a con-
certed effort by nonprofit organizations
and governments to protect and restore
wetland habitat.
Although the news is not as good for
the migratory songbirds who fly north
each year in search of food and nesting
sites to fledge their young, gardeners
could make a difference. If each gardener
played a small part, we could collectively
have a large positive impact. Using water-
fowl conservation as a model, we could
help to reverse the songbirds’ decline. At
the Morris Arboretum, we are beginning
a long-term study to see if introducing
more native plant species, removing inva-
sive plants, and restoring meadows and
hedgerows will have a positive impact
on bird diversity. The study focuses on
native plants because they host far more
caterpillars and other insects than exotic
species. Some of the preliminary data
looks promising. The following are a
few examples of native plants that can
improve bird habitat in your backyard.
Photo:
Photo:
FG201CU.indd 65 7/2/21 11:40 AM

trees and shrubs add valuable habitat and seasonal food
Black cherry is big and bountiful

Prunus serotina
zones: 3–9
size: 50 to 80 feet tall and 30 to
60 feet wide
conditions: Full sun to partial shade;
moderately moist soil
native range: Eastern North America,
For an attractive caterpillar host,
Photos, except where noted: courtesy of William Cullina

Mexico, Central America
plant sassafras
Native trees and shrubs are veritable
supermarkets for nesting songbirds. Sassafras albidum
One of my favorites, if I have the zones: 4–9
space, is black cherry. This medium size: 30 to 60 feet tall and 25 to 40 feet wide
to large tree grows in a wide range of conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to moist,
conditions, from river-bottom forests well-drained soil

to coastal dunes. It is preferred by native range: Eastern North America
over 100 types of moth and butterfly Sassafras is a medium-size tree that provides nectar, fruit,
caterpillars, and the long racemes of and a bounty of caterpillars. It is a unique species with
white flowers are a favorite of bees and mitten-shaped leaves that hang on tiered branches, giv-
flower flies. Clusters of small black cherries follow in ing the whole tree a stacked or layered appearance I can
summer. Though not palatable to humans, they are spot even at highway speeds. Sassafras is dioecious, which
relished by waxwings and other fruit eaters at a time means that plants are either male or female. Pompoms of
when there are few other fruits available. light yellow flowers burst from swelling buds along with
FG201CU.indd 66 7/2/21 11:40 AM

Allegheny serviceberry provides
nesting sites and berries
Amelanchier laevis
zones: 4–8
size: 15 to 40 feet tall and wide
conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to
moist, well-drained soil
native range: Eastern North America
the emerging leaves, and if there If you do not have the space for a black cherry,
Photos, except where noted: courtesy of William Cullina
is a male near enough for the bees another favorite of waxwings is serviceberry
to find, female trees will produce (Amelanchier spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9). There
large crops of small, olive-shaped are several species and dozens of cultivars avail-
blue-black fruits in fall. The leaves able, but I recommend Allegheny serviceberry
turn fiery orange, smoldering red, or as a good one to try for much of the country.
brilliant yellow in autumn. Sassafras This small, multistemmed tree features smooth,
trees “flag”—that is, the leaves turn gray bark and a fine branching pattern good for
color when the fruits are ripe to gain nesting. Leaves often emerge with a bronze or
the attention of avian passersby. reddish cast that fades to green as the white,
Sassafras is a pioneering tree that five-petaled flowers bloom in early spring. It is
favors fencerows and old fields, and a member of the rose family, and the flowers
it adapts well to a range of soil types bear a passing resemblance to apple or cherry
as long as it receives plenty of sun. It does tend to send up root blossoms. Blueberry-size fruits mature to a rosy
sprouts to create groves or thickets, which provide excellent plum color in early summer and are quite tasty if
nesting sites and protection. you can beat the birds to a few.
FG201CU.indd 67 7/2/21 11:40 AM

trees and shrubs add valuable habitat and seasonal food
Photos: Doris Dumrauf/Alamy Stock Photos (p. 64); millettephotomedia.com (p. 68); Bill Johnson (p. 69, top right)
Rocky Mountain juniper protects birds from bad weather
Juniperus scopulorum
zones: 3–7
size: 10 to 30 feet tall and 5 to 15 feet wide
conditions: Full sun; average to dry, well-drained soil
native range: Western North America
Native junipers provide wonderful winter shelter for birds. Eastern red cedar (Juniperus
virginiana, Zones 2–9) in the East and Rocky Mountain juniper in the West have all the bird-
friendly attributes of American holly (p. 69) yet with better cold and drought tolerance.
Females produce thousands of gin-scented silvery blue fruits for winter forage, and the
sharp evergreen needles and dense branching shield birds from wind and snow. Both
species make fine hedges or screens and tolerate wind, salt, and dry, rocky soil quite well.
FG201CU.indd 68 7/15/21 1:25 PM

Plant quick-growing American
elderberry for a fruitful autumn
Sambucus canadensis
zones: 3–9
size: 5 to 12 feet
tall and wide
conditions: Full sun
to partial shade;
average to wet,
well-drained soil
native range: North
America, Central
America, northern
South America
There are many
fine native shrubs to consider for bird habitat,
including viburnums (Viburnum spp. and cvs.,
Zones 3–9), chokeberries (Aronia spp. and cvs.,
Zones 3–9), and elderberries (Sambucus spp.
and cvs., Zones 3–9). All support caterpillars and
pollinators, and all produce large crops of berries
in late summer to fall. American elderberry is a
satisfying shrub for the impatient gardener. It
sends forth thick canes clothed in paired, com-
pound leaves. These are topped in midsummer
with heads of lacy white flowers the size of dinner
plates that attract butterflies, bees, and flower
flies. Tiny but sweet black fruits by the hundreds
follow in autumn. Though not dioicous, an elder
berry will produce more fruit if you plant more
than one variety together. Because blooms are
produced on new growth, you can cut the canes
down to stubs in fall or winter to control its size.
Photos: Doris Dumrauf/Alamy Stock Photos (p. 64); millettephotomedia.com (p. 68); Bill Johnson (p. 69, top right)
For the best flowering and fruiting, be sure your

shrub gets plenty of moisture and sun.
American holly is a reliable source

of winter food and shelter
Ilex opaca
zones: 5–9
conditions: Full sun to partial shade; consistently moist,
acidic, well-drained soil
native range: Eastern and central United States
For those birds that do not migrate, shelter is impor-

tant in winter. Evergreen trees and shrubs provide
the best protection from predators and chilling winds.
My office looks down on a large grove of American
holly. Though slow-growing, most of these trees are
75 years old and now 30 or 40 feet tall. Hollies are
dioecious, like sassafras, so you will need a male and
female for fruit set. The brilliant red berries are not
very palatable to birds in fall, but after a month or two
of freezing and thawing, the fruits soften up and begin
to ferment. Overwintering robins occasionally gorge on
the fermented fruits, then frolic drunkenly in the grass
below. American holly is a tough, shade-tolerant tree
with spiny, deep green leaves that provide outstanding
winter protection.
FG201CU.indd 69 7/2/21 11:41 AM

perennials provide a bounty of seeds and nectar
◂ Symphyotrichum novae-angliae
zones: 4–8
conditions: Full sun; moist to average, well-drained soil
New England aster and narrow-leaved sunflower are seed factories ▴ Helianthus angustifolius Sidebar photos facing page, from top to bottom: Kshanti Greene (2); Carol Collins; courtesy of Mike’s Birds from Riverside, CA-commons-wikimedia org
zones: 5–9
The aster family offers many bird-friendly natives for the garden or meadow. Among herbaceous size: 5 to 8 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide
perennials, it is hard to find any group that supports more species of moth and butterfly caterpil- conditions: Full sun to partial shade;
lars, and the colorful blooms are beloved by many pollinating insects. Leave the spent flowers to average, well-drained soil
go to seed in the fall, as they are a preferred food of sparrows and goldfinches. There are many native range: South-central and eastern
to choose from, but two that I recommend for ease of care and showy bloom are New England United States
aster (left) and narrow-leaved sunflower (right).
Sources
• Forestfarm • Mail Order Natives • Prairie Moon Nursery • Wild Ridge Plants
Williams, OR; 541-846-7269 Lee, FL; 850-973-7371 Winona, MN; 866-417-8156 Alpha, NJ; 908-319-7230
forestfarm.com mailordernatives.com prairiemoon.com wildridgeplants.com
FG201CU.indd 70 7/2/21 11:41 AM

Sidebar photos facing page, from top to bottom: Kshanti Greene (2); Carol Collins; courtesy of Mike’s Birds from Riverside, CA-commons-wikimedia org
1.
| S u s ta i n a b l e P r a c t i c e s |
Bird-friendly features to
Call in the hummingbirds with trumpet honeysuckle
enhance your landscape
Lonicera sempervirens
zones: 4–9
In addition to planting native trees, shrubs, and
wildflowers, here are some additional things to
conditions: Full sun; fertile, moist, well-drained soil
keep in mind if you want to make your yard more
native range: Southeastern United States
bird-friendly.
I would be remiss not to mention a few plants of special benefit to humming 1. Birdhouses really work. Install several sizes
birds. Hummingbirds favor brightly colored, tubular flowers with copious for different species. I like to add metal hole
nectar supplies, and trumpet honeysuckle fits that bill perfectly. This is a protectors of the proper
hummingbird feeder you never have to clean; well-grown specimens will diameters to discourage
bloom most of the summer, and hummingbirds will fight each other for the rodents. Clean out old
privilege of sipping from its orange, scarlet, or yellow blooms. This easy-to- nesting material in late win-
grow twining vine blooms best in fertile soil and full sun. You can train it on ter to prepare the houses
a trellis or let it scamper over a wall or an old stump. for the coming spring.
2. Standing dead trees
provide nesting sites for
many species of birds.
Cardinal flower is also Where safe and possible,
a hummer favorite leave dead trunks standing.
2.
At Morris Arboretum, we
Lobelia cardinalis often “top” dead trees to
zones: 3–9
make them safer and then
size: 2 to 4 feet tall and 1 to
leave the bottom 20 feet
2 feet wide standing for bird habitat.
conditions: Full sun to partial
shade; fertile, moist to wet soil 3. Discarded Christmas
native range: North America,
trees and piles of woody
Central America, northern brush in a hidden corner of
Colombia the yard provide excellent
winter shelter for birds.
Cardinal flower is another fool-
4. A year-round, 3.
proof hummingbird magnet.
shallow water source
Rosettes of overwintering leaves
is very important. Many
bolt to become 3- to 5-foot
options with heaters to keep water from
stems topped with brilliant
freezing weather are available.
crimson flowers that open over
six weeks in mid to late summer.
In fall, a plant will develop new 4.
rosettes around the base; keep
these offsets free of leaves and
debris so they can develop into
new plants in spring.
Bill Cullina is executive director of the Morris Arboretum

of the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia.
FG201CU.indd 71 7/2/21 11:41 AM

| PLANT S FOR T HE BIRDs i n yo ur re gi o n |
northwest
Golden Raindrops® crabapple ‘King Edward VII’ red-flowering currant Pacific Wax Myrtle
Photos, clockwise from top left: Bill Johnson; Martin Hughes-Jones/gapphotos.com; millettephotomedia.com; courtesy of Sue Goetz; Michelle Gervais
Malus transitoria ‘Schmidtcutleaf’ Ribes sanguineum ‘King Edward VII’ Morella californica syn. Myrica californica
zones: 3–8 zones: 6–9 zones: 7–9
size: 20 feet tall and 15 feet wide size: 6 to 8 feet tall and wide size: 8 to 10 feet tall and wide
conditions: Full sun; adapts to many types of conditions: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil conditions: Full sun to full shade; moist, well-
well-drained soil native range: Coastal areas from southwestern drained soil
native range: Eastern Asia British Columbia through western Washington, Oregon, native range: Coastal areas of the Pacific Northwest
This bird-friendly tree provides shelter, safe nesting, and Northern California Pacific wax myrtle is a versatile evergreen shrub that
places to perch, and winter food. Crabapple trees have A named cultivar of a fabulous Pacific Northwest native, is underutilized in garden design. Its dense, shrubby
gotten a bad rap because of their messy fruit drop, ‘King Edward VII’ provides birds with both shelter and habit shelters birds through winter and gives them
but the tiny fruit of Golden Raindrops® clings to the food. The vibrant, deep fuchsia flowers attract hum- nesting places in spring. Tiny white blooms in late May
branches through the winter, feeding birds over a long mingbirds and provide them with nectar in late spring. are followed by small dark fruits in fall that persist
season. The low-growing, vaselike habit makes this an As leaves fill the branches in early summer, the shrub through winter. This is a good screening plant; it makes
excellent choice for small gardens. It offers multiple provides shelter for other birds, and small dark berries a fabulous addition to mixed hedgerows with other
seasons of interest, with pale pink to white flowers in supply food from late summer into fall. I love grouping bird-friendly plants and can be planted as shelter near
spring, followed by deeply cut foliage that turns bright three or more plants to create a natural thicket at the bird-attracting perennials and feeders. Pacific wax
orange to yellow in fall. Bare branches dotted with edge of a woodland or border. This easy-to-grow shrub myrtle tolerates some pruning and shaping, but I think
clusters of golden crabapples round out the year. flowers more heavily in full sun but tends to be more its natural branching habit is beautiful. It is drought
drought tolerant in partial shade once established. tolerant once established and suitable for gardens in
coastal areas because of its tolerance to salt spray.
‘White Swan’ coneflower

Echinacea purpurea ‘White Swan’
regional expert
zones: 4–8
size: 2 to 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide
conditions: Full sun; average to lean soil
native range: Central and southeastern North America
‘White Swan’ is an excellent version of the classic
coneflower, with slightly drooping white petals that stay
nice and bright during the flowering season. Give it the
right conditions and you will be rewarded with abun-
dant summer blooms that attract butterflies and other
pollinators. If you do not cut down the dead flowers,
their rigid stems will stay upright most of the winter,
offering a bounty of seeds for songbirds. Avoid fertil- Sue Goetz is a horticulturist,
izer and heavily composted soil, which tend to make landscape designer, author,
coneflowers wimpy. The plants can be slow to emerge and speaker in Tacoma,
in late spring, but once the summer heat gets them Washington.
blooming they will keep producing flowers into fall.
FG201rgnw.indd 72 7/2/21 11:44 AM

| P l an ts f or the B i r ds i n yo ur re gi o n |
southwest
Photos: courtesy of Mark Brotton (top left and right; bottom left); courtesy of J. Frank Schmidt & Son Co. (top center); courtesy of Lisa Brotton (bottom right)
Four-wing saltbush Thornless cockspur hawthorne Winterfat

Atriplex canescens Crataegus crus-galli var. inermis Krascheninnikovia lanata
Zones: 6–10 Zones: 3–7 Zones: 3–8
Size: 3 to 6 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide Size: 12 to 15 feet tall and 12 to 15 feet wide Size: 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun; well-drained soil Conditions: Full sun; medium to well-drained soil Conditions: Full sun; well-drained soil
Native range: Western North America Native range: Eastern North America Native range: Western North America
Four-wing saltbush is a spectacular wildlife shrub, This small tree is a great addition to any garden. White Winterfat is a spectacular textural shrub with dense,
and birds use it for almost impenetrable protection flowers bloom in spring, followed by luscious, bright fluffy white seed clusters. The seeds are used for
from airborne and land predators. The leaves are a green leaves and dark red fruits that ripen in summer nesting material by birds as well as ground-dwelling
slight grayish-green on stout stems that form a dense, and persist into late fall. These small fruits are beloved wildlife. This shrub has white flower spikes that have
rounded habit. Tiny light yellow flowers borne on the tips by birds. Additionally, the tight-knit branch structure fos- a cottony look and bloom throughout summer, fall,
of branches in late summer produce clusters of four- ters a unique perch for songbirds all year long. Adding to and winter. Planted in groupings, it also supplies birds
winged light green seeds that are used by birds for food this tree’s multiseason interest is its foliage, which turns and wildlife with plenty of protection from predators.
and nest fodder. This shrub takes drought tolerance to red and yellow in fall. Thornless cockspur hawthorne Winterfat is underutilized in the landscape but gives any
a whole new level; it’s on par with cacti in terms of its fosters bird life in compact spaces such as small patios garden multiseason interest, and it has low water and
need for water. If you are looking for textural diversity or enclosed courtyards. I suggest planting it in tight maintenance needs. It looks gorgeous in winter with a
with screening potential, then this shrub is for you. groupings of three or five for maximum impact. light frost or snow gracing its fuzzy flower spikes, and it
will survive the worst drought after establishment.
Fernbush
regional expert
Chamaebatiaria millefolium
Zones: 4–8
Size: 3 to 5 feet tall and 3 to 6 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun; well-drained soil
Native range: Western United States
Also called desert sweet, fernbush creates a fantastic
bird sanctuary when planted in groups of three to five.
This evergreen is extremely hardy and can take the
heat. Fernbush provides excellent textural diversity to
garden beds. The seeds, which are produced after the
flowers in mid to late spring, are pecked at by birds,
Mark Brotton is the owner
and the leaves are used for nesting material by birds
and principal designer at
as well as ground-dwelling wildlife. Once established,
Living Water Irrigation and
this shrub will power through the driest of seasons. If
Landscape in Santa Fe,
you feel compelled to prune it, make sure not to cut it
New Mexico.
too far back, as it will look buzzed. Fernbush grows and
spreads quickly, so just a few shrubs will fill out a small
area in one growing season.
FG201rgsw.indd 73 7/2/21 11:45 AM

| PLANT S F OR T HE B IRDs i n yo ur re gi o n |
mountain west
‘Furman’s Red’ autumn sage Netleaf hackberry Bitter cherry

Salvia greggii ‘Furman’s Red’ Celtis laevigata var. reticulata Prunus emarginata
size: 2 to 3 feet tall and wide size: 10 to 20 feet wide and 20 to 40 feet tall size: 20 to 40 feet tall and wide
conditions: Full sun; dry to average, well-drained soil conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to dry, conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moist to wet soil
with no fertilizer well-drained soil native range: Northernmost parts of British Columbia,
native range: West and Central Texas, northern Mexico native range: The driest parts of eastern Washington south to New Mexico
and Oregon, Idaho, south to northern Mexico
If watching and attracting hummingbirds is important to Bitter cherry is a small deciduous shrub that can also
you, this is a must-have subshrub. In Boise, my plants This is one tough shrub, known to spring forth from grow up to 40 feet tall and wide in ideal conditions.
Top photos: millettephotomedia.com. Bottom photos: Kerry Ann Moore (left); courtesy of Mary Ann Newcomer (right).
start blooming as early as late May and will put on a show rock outcroppings after scorching wildfires. The band- It often spreads by runners creating thickets, which
until the hardest frost in November. While autumn sage tailed pigeon, Steller’s jay, northern flicker, American provide shelter and nesting places for birds and small
comes in several colors, I have had the best luck with robin, Bohemian and cedar waxwings, American crow, mammals. Its springtime blossoms are a nectar source
‘Furman’s Red’. Apparently the hummers are attracted and towhees are just a few of the birds who rely on its for hummingbirds and honeybees, and the shrub hosts
to its fire engine red color as well as the tubular flower persistent drupes, which can be green, orange, or red. as many as 150 types of caterpillars and insects, pro-
throats that hold the nectar. Planting a cluster of the same My botany professor called the insect-created galls on viding much-needed food for wild birds. The drupes are
variety will provide them with an abundance of nectar all its leathery leaves “burritos for wild turkeys.” Netleaf extremely bitter, but cedar waxwings, thrushes, wood-
in one place. hackberry provides cover for quail and nesting sites for peckers, sparrows, bluebirds, tanagers, and orioles will
Swainson’s hawks, Bullock’s orioles, doves, and even feast on them. Bitter cherry is especially important as a
the occasional hummingbird (pictured). roosting spot and escape haven for sharp-tailed grouse.
Heritage river birch

Betula nigra ‘Cully’ regional expert
zones: 4–9
conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to
wet soil
native range: Eastern United States
This shade tree, beloved for its graceful stature and
handsome peeling bark, is widely adapted across the
United States. It can support more than 400 types of
caterpillars and other insects, the key ingredients in
baby birds’ diets. In his book Bringing Nature Home,
Doug Tallamy cites the river birch as one of the top five
trees for attracting wildlife. While chickadees, song Mary Ann Newcomer is a native
sparrows, wild turkeys, pine siskins, and finches dine on Idahoan who gardens, scouts
the seeds, others are attracted to the sap. Chickadees, gardens, and writes about gar-
jays, juncos, northern flickers, and pine siskins may dening in the Intermountain West.
build their nests in its branches. Supplemental watering
may be necessary in hot parts of the Rockies.
FG201rgmtw.indd 74 7/2/21 11:42 AM

| P l an ts f or the B i r ds i n yo ur re gi o n |
southern plains
Photos, clockwise from top left: millettephotomedia.com (2); courtesy of Stephanie Brundage/Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center; courtesy of Amy Galloway; Michelle Gervais
TURK’S CAP AGARITA PLATEAU GOLDENEYE

Malvaviscus arboreus var. drummondii Mahonia trifoliolata Viguiera dentata
Zones: 7b–11 Zones: 7–9 Zones: 8–11
Size: 2 to 4 feet tall and wide Size: 3 to 6 feet tall and wide Size: 3 to 6 feet tall and wide
Conditions: Partial to full shade; moist, well-drained Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; wide range of
soil loam, clay, caliche, or limestone soil well-drained soil types
Native Range: Southeastern United States Native Range: Southwestern United States Native Range: Southwestern United States, Mexico,
Turk’s cap takes the blazing temperatures of Texas The unique holly-like evergreen leaves of agarita add Central America, Cuba
in stride, presenting a showy display of magnetic red interesting texture to the garden all year long. The gray- This member of the sunflower family brings a cheery
blooms for months, with the most prolific blooming in green foliage radiates life amid the browns of winter. golden-yellow autumn color to any perennial border.
the heat of summer and early fall. Turk’s cap flowers Thick, barbed leaves are complemented by fragrant Numerous miniature sunflowers shine on top of long
are distinctive and striking. The flowers never fully open, yellow, buttercup flowers that are some of the first to stalks as they extend up above the mass of foliage
yet they are a favorite nectar source for ruby-throated bloom in our region in spring. This early flush is followed below. This dappled yet dense foliage provides excel-
hummingbirds as well as many butterflies, moths, and by bright red berries that are a favorite of songbirds lent cover for birds. In full sun it matures to a compact
insects. The large palmate leaves provide dense cover and can be made into a delicious jelly or wine. The 3 feet in height but will grow to 6 feet in shadier areas.
for birds and small mammals. The Spanish name for this sharp leaves have the added benefit of being a natural When allowed to stand through the winter, the blooms
plant, mazanilla (“little apple”), describes its 1-inch red barbed wire, providing an effective and safe shelter for provide a bounty of seeds to many granivorous birds,
fruit, which is edible and provides a food source for birds. birds—specifically quail—and small mammals. This including the lesser goldfinch. Plateau goldeneye is
is an interesting, underutilized evergreen. also a larval host plant for two butterfly species.
LITTLE BLUESTEM
Schizachyrium scoparium regional expert
Zones: 3–9
Size: 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; wide range of
well-drained soil types
Native Range: Alberta to Quebec, all lower 48 states
except Oregon and Nevada
This native grass is a rewarding garden plant, with innumer-
able benefits to wildlife. The name “little bluestem” denotes
the blue-green foliage in summer, but winter brings a different
artistic display. The bluish foliage melds into a deep copper
that is complemented by silvery seed puffs that glisten in the
soft winter light. The seeds attract granivorous birds, and the Amy Galloway is a horti-
foliage is utilized by birds and native bees for nesting materi- culturist at the Lady Bird
als. Its clumping habit makes it a refuge for birds seeking Johnson Wildflower Center
cover to rest. Little bluestem is the larval host plant for six in Austin, Texas.
species of butterflies. Their caterpillars serve as the main and
essential source of protein for growing baby birds.
FG201rgsp.indd 75 7/2/21 11:45 AM

| PLANT S F OR T HE B IRDs i n yo ur re gi o n |
Midwest
Photos: millettephotomedia.com (top left and bottom left); Bill Johnson (top center); Michelle Gervais (top right); courtesy of Mark Dwyer (bottom right)
American mountain ash Black chokeberry Red buckeye
Sorbus americana Aronia melanocarpa Aesculus pavia
size: 15 to 30 feet tall and 15 to 25 feet wide size: 4 to 6 feet tall and 6 feet wide size: 12 to 15 feet tall and wide
conditions: Full sun; moist, acidic, humus-rich, conditions: Full sun to partial shade; rich, moist, conditions: Full sun to partial shade; rich, moist,
well-drained soil well-drained soil well-drained soil, tolerates clay
native range: Eastern North America native range: Eastern North America native range: Southeastern and central United States
Disliking hot and humid summers, American mountain Black chokeberry offers three seasons of interest, with This is an excellent, spring-blooming specimen tree
ash thrives in cooler climates, where it is a productive white flower clusters in spring, heavy fruiting in late with a rounded crown and shiny, dark green foliage. The
and popular wildlife magnet. White flower clusters in summer, and superior orange to red color in fall. The tubular flowers are red to red-orange and arranged on
spring transition to orange-red pomes that ripen in late astringent black fruits are most prevalent on plants 6- to 10-inch-long panicles that will catch the attention
summer. Many small animals and birds such as robins, grown in full sun; the clusters last over the winter, and of passing hummingbirds. The foliage tends to scorch
waxwings, jays, and thrushes will take advantage of this remaining berries are targeted by a wide range of birds in dry summers and drop early in September. Siting
food source well into winter. This species dislikes dry including cardinals, wild turkeys, jays, and mockingbirds. the plant in a location with afternoon shade can help
soil and urban pollution, and struggling specimens may This open and upright shrub creates root suckers and maintain the integrity of the foliage longer, and it is vital
succumb to bacterial fireblight, cankers, mildew, and has a tendency to form a thicket in time. Although the in hot summer climates. Be aware that the seeds and
other ailments. Look for the selection Red Cascade™ suckers can be pruned, consider leaving them to create young shoots of red buckeye are poisonous.
(S. americana ‘Dwarfcrown’, Zones 3–6) for a narrow valuable wildlife shelter. There are now compact selec-
option that grows 18 feet tall and 8 feet wide. tions available with plenty of landscape potential.
‘Winter King’ green hawthorn

regional expert
Crataegus viridis ‘Winter King’
zones: 4–7
size: 25 to 30 feet tall and wide
conditions: Full sun; well-drained soil
native range: Southeastern United States, west to
Texas and north to Illinois
‘Winter King’ is a selection that represents the best this
species can offer, with ornamental interest throughout
the year. The dense, rounded, symmetrical form features
dark green leaves and attractive purple-red fall color.
Fragrant, profuse, white flower clusters appear in spring.
Small red pomes ripen in September and persist well Mark Dwyer is a landscape
into winter, feeding cedar waxwings, robins, northern designer and the owner
mockingbirds, and other birds. The maturing trunks of Landscape Prescrip-
exfoliate with age to reveal orange inner bark; the silvery tions by MD in Janesville,
stems are showy as well, particularly in winter. ‘Winter Wisconsin.
King’ is quite disease resistant and tolerates drought,
clay soil, and urban pollution.
FG201rgmw.indd 76 7/2/21 11:42 AM

| PLANT S FOR T HE B IRDs i n yo ur re gi o n |
southeast
Photos: JC Raulston Arboretum at NC State University (top left and center); millettephotomedia.com (top right and bottom left); courtesy of Mark Weathington (bottom right)
Berry Poppins® winterberry ‘Scarlet O’Hara’ hardy sinningia ‘Golden Arrow’ arrowwood viburnum
Ilex verticillata ‘Farrowbpop’ Sinningia ‘Scarlet O’Hara’ Viburnum dentatum ‘Golden Arrow’
size: 4 feet tall and wide in seven years size: 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide size: 8 feet tall by 8 feet wide in 10 years
conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to conditions: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to moist,
moist soil native range: Hybrid well-drained soil
native range: Eastern North America native range: Eastern North America
Few plants are as sure to attract hummingbirds as this
Our native deciduous hollies are a great source of food for hardy relative of African violets. Its felted leaves are held What’s better for both birds and an exuberant garden
birds, and when the cedar waxwings come through town, on upright burgundy stems and topped from early April than a bright, gold-leafed native viburnum? The foliage
winterberries are their first stop. The straight species can until frost with 2-inch red tubular flowers. As a bonus, on this arrowwood selection, found by plantsman Jon
grow quite big, but this selection has large, brilliant red deer seem to leave the fuzzy leaves alone. Several times Roethling and introduced through the JC Raulston
berries on a compact plant. I’ve found it to be one of the a summer I remove the spent flower stalks down to their Arboretum, emerges brilliant gold and holds its color
most reliable fruiting forms I’ve grown, with big crops leaves to tidy the display and keep my plants flowering well into summer. I have found it to be quite sun toler-
every year. Like all hollies, it needs a male to ensure a heavily. I find that hardy sinningia performs best in full ant if given adequate moisture, but it will grow happily
good berry set. Plan to grow one Mr. Poppins® winter- sun, but it will tolerate some light shade. Well-drained in more shade, where it serves as a bright beacon.
berry (I. verticillata ‘Farrowmrp’, Zones 3–9) for every soil, however, is a must. Flat clusters of white flowers in late spring give rise to
three to five Berry Poppins® plants. Fruiting is best in full generous bunches of blue-black berries much loved
sun, but the plants will tolerate some shade. by birds.
‘Royo’ Eastern red cedar

regional expert
Juniperus virginiana ‘Royo’
zones: 3–9
size: 3 to 4 feet tall and 8 to 10 feet wide in 10 years
conditions: Full sun; average to dry, well-drained soil
This low, wide-spreading form of our native red cedar
makes an eye-catching display of vivid, frosty-blue needles
with long and threadlike branch tips. While a male plant is
needed for it to produce large crops of blue fruit, in much
of the South the species is so ubiquitous that a male will
likely be growing somewhere in the vicinity. The National
Wildlife Federation says that junipers are one of the top Mark Weathington is the
10 plants for wildlife, providing winter food and a very director of the JC Raulston
warm nesting site for birds. It has been suggested that Arboretum at North Carolina
‘Royo’ may be a hybrid, which could explain its unusual State University in Raleigh,
growth habit, but no matter what, it is hard to beat for North Carolina.
toughness, beauty, and utility. Avoid planting it where the
ground stays wet for extended periods.
FG201rgse.indd 77 7/2/21 11:44 AM

| PLANTS F OR T HE B IRDs i n yo ur re gi o n |
northeast
SERVICEBERRY WHITE OAK RED CHOKEBERRY

Amelanchier canadensis Quercus alba Aronia arbutifolia
Zones: 4–8 Zones: 3–9 Zones: 4–9
Size: 25 to 30 feet tall and 15 to 20 feet wide Size: 50 to 80 feet tall and wide Size: 6 to 8 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moist, well- Conditions: Full sun; wide range of well-drained soil Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil
drained soil Native range: Eastern North America Native range: Eastern North America
Native range: Eastern North America
Its lack of bird-attracting fruit may make it seem an Red chokeberry is a versatile, hardy shrub and a favorite
If you would like to see cedar waxwings in the middle outlier on this list, but the white oak may be the most of many bird species for its nutritious fruit that ripens
of a city, consider planting a few serviceberry trees. All important and most rewarding plant for the birding gar- late and persists into winter. This is an enthusiastic
species of Amelanchier are great, and once migratory dener. Oaks, along with a few other select native trees, suckering shrub in moist conditions. It does take well
birds find those trees, they will be annual visitors to are the framework of our ecosystem, hosting hundreds to drier and partially shaded sites, where it is less likely
the feast of delicious fruit that ripens early (hence the of species of insects from egg to adulthood. Those eggs, to spread. Its suckering ability makes it both resistant to
alternative common name, Juneberry). Many bird species larvae, and adult insects are essential food for birds, damage (such as from heavy snow) and responsive to
prize these berries, while others are attracted to insect especially during two very important times—migration aggressive pruning. With a particularly upright habit, red
larvae that gather on branches and stems; several moth and when feeding nestlings. In spring you’ll find warblers, chokeberry mixes well with other shrubs, and though it
and butterfly species rely on serviceberry as a larval vireos, and all manner of migrating birds on white oaks, can get quite tall, it can still work in tight garden spaces.
host plant. Many bird species count on these energy-rich gleaning the trunks and bare branches for insect larvae, A beautiful display of flowers in mid to late spring will
Top photos: Jennifer Benner. Bottom photos: Steve Aitken (left); courtesy of David Falk (right).
caterpillars as sustenance during migration and for feed- ravenous for a meal after a long flight. Later, birds with become an abundance of dangling red fruit by fall. The
ing their chicks. Serviceberries also have plentiful early nests return to these trees in search of more insects to fruit often remains through winter and provides spring-
spring flowers (pictured) and great fall color to round out feed to their young, which need protein. This is a stately migrating thrushes, waxwings, and orioles with food.
the seasons. tree with excellent autumn color.
HIGHBUSH BLUEBERRY regional expert

Vaccinium corymbosum
Zones: 5–8
Size: 6 to 8 feet tall and 8 to 12 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; acidic, medium to wet,
well-drained soil
Native range: Eastern North America
True straight species highbush blueberry is sometimes hard
to find at the nursery, but it is a magnificent plant. Highly
ornamental with pendulous spring flowers (pictured) and
great fall color, it is a magnet for birds due to its fruit produc-
tion. Like all Ericaceous plants, blueberries depend on certain David Falk is a horticulturist
fungi in the soil to thrive and so may not take immediately at Garden in the Woods in
to some garden sites. Mixing in compost, wood chips, and Framingham, Massachusetts,
sand—and then mulching with wood chips annually or bian- where he has worked for
nually while always leaving fallen leaves on the ground—will seven years for the Native
help a lot. Highbush blueberries are ideal rain garden plants, Plant Trust.
but once established they can be very drought tolerant, though
they truly flourish with more consistently moist conditions.
FG201rgne.indd 78 7/2/21 11:43 AM

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p r o n u nciati o n gu id e
Here is a handy guide to help you pronounce the botanical names in this issue.
A–I Hoya linearis (HOY-ah lin-ee-AR-iss), p. 33

Hylotelephium (high-lo-tel-IF-ee-um), pp. 31, 44
Achillea millefolium (ah-KILL-ee-ah mil-ih-FOE-lee-um), p. 8 Ilex opaca (EYE-leks oh-PAK-ah), p. 69
Aesculus pavia (ESS-kew-lus PAY-vee-ah), p. 76 Ilex verticillata (EYE-leks ver-tiss-ill-AY-tah), p. 77
Ageratina altissima (a-jer-ah-TEE-nah all-TISS-ih-mah), p. 44 Iris sibirica (EYE-riss sih-BEER-ih-kah), p. 44
Allium (AL-ee-um), p. 48 Isotoma fluviatilis (eye-so-TOE-mah floo-vee-ah-TIL-iss), p. 51
Amelanchier canadensis (am-el-AN-keer kan-ah-DEN-sis), p. 78
Amelanchier laevis (am-el-AN-keer LAY-viss), p. 67 J–Q
Amsonia (am-SO-nee-ah), p. 46
Andropogon gerardii (an-dro-PO-gon jer-AR-dee-eye), p. 46 Juniperus scopulorum (joo-NIP-er-us skop-yew-LOR-um), p. 68
Anthurium andraeanum (an-THUR-ee-um an-dree-AY-num), p. 33 Juniperus virginiana (joo-NIP-er-us ver-jin-ee-AY-nah), pp. 46, 68, 77
Aquilegia canadensis (ak-will-EE-zsah kan-ah-DEN-sis), pp. 46, 49 Krascheninnikovia lanata (crash-en-in-ih-KOE-vee-ah lan-AY-tah), p. 73
Aralia cordata (ah-RAY-lee-ah core-DAY-tah), p. 44 Liatris spicata (lee-AH-tris spih-KAY-tah), p. 44
Aronia (ah-ROE-nee-ah), p. 69 Lobelia cardinalis (lo-BEE-lee-ah kar-din-AL-iss), pp. 46, 71
Aronia arbutifolia (ah-ROE-nee-ah ar-bew-tih-FOE-lee-ah), p. 78 Lonicera sempervirens (lon-ISS-er-ah sem-per-VEER-enz), p. 71
Aronia melanocarpa (ah-ROE-nee-ah mel-an-oh-KAR-pah), p. 76 Mahonia trifoliolata (mah-HO-nee-ah try-foe-lee-oh-LAY-tah), p. 75
Asarum canadense (ah-SAR-um kan-ah-DEN-see), p. 44 Malus transitoria (MAY-lus trans-ih-TORE-ee-ah), p. 72
Asclepias tuberosa (ah-SKLEE-pee-us too-ber-OH-sah), p. 48 Malvaviscus arboreus var. drummondii (mal-vah-VIS-kus ar-BOR-ee-us variety
Asparagus densiflorus (ah-SPARE-ah-gus den-sih-FLOOR-us), p. 37 drum-MON-dee-eye), p. 75
Asparagus retrofractus (ah-SPARE-ah-gus rech-ro-FRAK-tuss), p. 38 Mammillaria vetula subsp. gracilis (mam-ih-LAH-ri-ah VETCH-oo-lah subspecies
Asplenium nidus (ah-SPLEEN-ee-um NID-us), p. 33 grah-SIL-iss), p. 20
Aster spectabilis (ASS-ter spek-TAB-il-iss), p. 48 Matteuccia struthiopteris (mah-TOO-kee-ah stroo-thee-OP-ter-iss), p. 43
Aster tataricus (ASS-ter tah-TAR-ih-kus), p. 44 Meehania cordata (me-HAHN-ee-ah kor-DAY-tah), p. 46
Athyrium niponicum var. pictum (ah-THEER-ee-um nih-PON-ih-kum variety PIK- Melianthus major (mel-ee-AN-thus MAY-jor), p. 60
tum), p. 37 Mertensia (mer-TEN-see-ah), p. 46
Atriplex canescens (AH-trih-pleks kan-ESS-senz), p. 73 Miscanthus (mis-KAN-thus), p. 31
Baptisia australis (bap-TIZ-ee-ah oss-TRAL-iss), p. 45 Molinia (moe-LIN-ee-ah), p. 44
Begonia (bah-GO-nyah), pp. 33, 38 Molinia caerulea subsp. caerulea (moe-LIN-ee-ah sir-EW-lee-ah subspecies sir-EW-
Betula nigra (BET-choo-lah NY-grah), p. 74 lee-ah), p. 45
Bupleurum fruticosum (BOO-plure-um frew-tih-KOE-sum), p. 83 Monarda bradburiana (moe-NAR-dah brad-burr-ee-AY-nah), p. 48
Calamintha (kal-ah-MIN-thah), p. 48 Morella californica (more-ELL-ah cal-ih-FOR-nih-kah), p. 72
Calathea roseopicta (kah-LAY-thee-ah roe-zee-oh-PIK-tah), p. 35 Muehlenbeckia axillaris (mew-len-BEK-ee-ah aks-ih-LAR-iss), p. 37
Carex (KARE-eks), p. 42 Muhlenbergia (muh-len-BERG-ee-ah), p. 49
Carex oshimensis (KARE-eks oh-she-MEN-sis), p. 38 Myrica californica (mir-EYE-kah cal-ih-FOR-nih-kah), p. 72
Celtis laevigata var. reticulata (SEL-tiss lay-vih-GAY-tah variety reh-tik-yew-LAY- Narcissus (nar-SIS-us), p. 48
tah), p. 74 Neoregelia (nee-oh-ree-GEE-lee-ah), pp. 34, 38
Cercis canadensis (SIR-sis kan-ah-DEN-sis), p. 46 Nephrolepis obliterata (nef-ro-LEP-iss ob-lit-er-AY-tah), p. 33
Chamaebatiaria millefolium (kam-ay-bat-ee-AIR-ee-ah mill-uh-FOE-lee-um), p. 73 Oenothera lindheimeri (ee-NOTH-er-ah lind-HY-mer-eye), p. 46
Chamaedorea elegans (kam-ay-DOR-ee-ah EL-eh-ganz), p. 38 Oplismenus hirtellus (op-liss-MEE-nus her-TEL-lus), p. 38
Cotinus coggygria (koe-TY-nus koe-GIG-ree-ah), p. 45 Oxalis oregana (oks-AL-iss or-reh-GAH-nuh), p. 51
Crataegus crus-galli var. inermis (krah-TEE-gus crooz-GAL-ee variety ih-NER-mis), Packera (PAK-er-ah), p. 46
p. 73 Panicum virgatum (PAN-ih-kum ver-GAY-tum), pp. 31, 44, 49
Crataegus viridis (krah-TEE-gus VEER-ih-diss), p. 76 Pellaea rotundifolia (pell-EE-ah roe-tun-dih-FOE-lee-ah), p. 33
Crocus (KROW-kus), p. 48 Pellionia repens (pell-ee-OH-nee-ah REE-penz), p. 37
Deinostigma tamiana (dee-in-oh-STIG-mah tah-mee-AY-nah), p. 20 Physocarpus opulifolius (fy-so-KAR-pus op-yew-lih-FOE-lee-us), p. 45
Deschampsia cespitosa (des-KAMP-see-ah sess-pih-TOE-sah), p. 44 Plectranthus scutellarioides (plek-TRAN-thus skoot-el-ar-ee-OY-deez), pp. 33, 34
Echinacea (eh-kih-NAY-shah), p. 46 Polyscias fruticosa (poe-LIS-kee-us frew-tih-KOE-sah), p. 35
Echinacea purpurea (eh-kih-NAY-shah per-per-EE-ah), pp. 72, 83 Primula (PRIM-yew-lah), p. 51
Echinops (EK-in-ops), p. 44 Prunus emarginata (PREW-nus ee-mar-jin-AY-tah), p. 74
Epimedium (ep-ih-MEE-dee-um), p. 42 Prunus serotina (PREW-nus ser-oh-TY-nah), p. 66
Eriogonum allenii (ee-ree-OG-oh-num uh-LEN-ee-eye), p. 49 Pyrrosia nummularifolia (pirr-OH-see-ah numm-yew-lar-ih-FOE-lee-ah), p. 22
Eschscholzia californica (eh-SHOLZ-ee-ah kal-ih-FOR-nih-kah), p. 46 Quercus alba (KWER-kus AL-bah), p. 78
Eutrochium purpureum (yew-TROE-kee-um pur-pur-EE-um), p. 31 Quercus bicolor (KWER-kus BY-kul-or), p. 14
Ficus carica (FY-kus KAR-ih-kah), p. 24 Quercus robur (KWER-kus ROE-burr), p. 14
Ficus elastica (FY-kus ee-LASS-tih-kah), p. 38 Quercus × warei (KWER-kus ex ware-ee-eye), p. 14
Fittonia albivenis (fih-TONE-ee-ah al-bih-VEN-sis), p. 35
Fragaria (frah-GAR-ee-ah), p. 51 R–V
Geranium macrorrhizum (jer-AY-nee-um mak-roe-RYE-zum), p. 42 Rhus typhina (ROOSE ty-FEE-nah), p. 44
Geranium sanguineum (jer-AY-nee-um san-GWIN-ee-um), p. 44 Ribes sanguineum (RY-beez san-GWIN-ee-um), p. 72
Hakonechloa macra (hak-on-eh-KLO-ah MAK-rah), p. 33 Rodgersia aesculifolia (rod-JER-zee-ah ess-kew-lih-FOE-lee-ah), p. 33
Hedera helix (HED-er-ah HEE-liks), p. 35 Rudbeckia (rud-BEK-ee-ah), p. 46
Helenium autumnale (heh-LEE-nee-um ot-um-NAL-ee), p. 15 Rudbeckia maxima (rud-BEK-ee-ah MAKS-ih-mah), p. 49
Helianthus angustifolius (hee-lee-AN-thus an-gus-tih-FOE-lee-us), p. 70 Ruellia humilis (roo-EL-lee-a HEW-mil-iss), p. 49
Hemerocallis (hem-er-oh-KAL-iss), p. 46 Salvia (SAL-vee-ah), p. 45
Hemionitis arifolia (hem-ee-oh-NIGH-tiss air-ih-FOE-lee-ah), p. 34 Salvia greggii (SAL-vee-ah GREG-ee-eye), p. 74
Hosta (HOSS-tah), pp. 37, 45 Salvia nemorosa (SAL-vee-ah nem-or-OH-sah), p. 48
FG201pg.indd 80 7/13/21 2:58 PM

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Sambucus canadensis (sam-BOO-kus kan-ah-DEN-sis), p. 69 Books / Education / Travel

Sanguisorba (san-gwih-SOR-bah), p. 11
Sanguisorba canadensis (san-gwih-SOR-bah kan-ah-DEN-sis), pp. 59, 61, 63 Britbox www.britbox.com/finegardening p. 21
Sanguisorba hakusanensis (san-gwih-SOR-bah hah-koo-sah-NEN-sis), pp. 55, Coopersmith’s
56, 60, 63 One-of-a-Kind-Tours www.coopersmiths.com p. 23
Sanguisorba menziesii (san-gwih-SOR-bah men-ZEEZ-ee-eye), pp. 60, 63
Sanguisorba minor (san-gwih-SOR-bah MY-nor), p. 63 Kids Gardening www.kidsgardening.org/subscribe p. 27
Sanguisorba obtusa (san-gwih-SOR-bah ob-TOO-sah), p. 63 Kids Gardening www.kidsgardening.org
Sanguisorba officinalis (san-gwih-SOR-bah oh-fi-shi-NAH-lis), pp. 55, 61, 63 /backtoschoolgardens p. 79
Sanguisorba officinalis var. microcephala (san-gwih-SOR-bah oh-fi-shi-NAH-
lis variety my-kro-SEF-ah-lah), pp. 56, 63 Bulbs & Seeds
Sanguisorba tenuifolia (san-gwih-SOR-bah ten-yew-ih-FOE-lee-ah), pp. 59, 63
Sanguisorba tenuifolia var. alba (san-gwih-SOR-bah ten-yew-ih-FOE-lee-ah Colorblends www.colorblends.com p. 11
variety ALL-bah), p. 63
Sansevieria cylindrica (san-seh-ve-AIR-ee-ah sill-IND-rih-kah), p. 35 Containers, Window Boxes, Markers
Sassafras albidum (SASS-ah-frass AL-bih-dum), p. 67
Schizachyrium scoparium (skiz-ah-KEER-ee-um sko-PAR-ee-um), p. 75 Smart Pot www.smartpots.com p. 9
Selaginella kraussiana var. brownii (sel-aj-in-EL-ah kraus-ee-AY-nah vari-
ety BROWN-ee-eye), p. 22 Fertilizers / Soil Products
Senecio rowleyanus (sen-EE-see-oh rau-lee-AY-nus), p. 16
Sesleria (sess-LAIR-ee-ah), p. 46 The Espoma Company www.espoma.com p. 15
Sesleria autumnalis (sess-LAIR-ee-ah ot-um-NAL-iss), p. 42 Osmocote www.plantersplace.com p. 84
Silene dioica (sy-LEE-nee dy-oh-EYE-kah), p. 46
Silphium terebinthaceum (SILL-fee-um tare-ah-bin-THAY-see-um), p. 8 Garden Art / Décor
Sinningia (sih-NIN-jee-ah), p. 77
Solidago (sol-ih-DAY-go), p. 46 Douglas Fey Pottery www.douglasfeypottery.com p. 29
Sorbus americana (SOR-bus ah-mer-ih-KAH-nah), p. 76 Garden Artisans www.gardenartisans.com p. 29
Sorghastrum nutans (sor-GAS-trum NEW-tanz), p. 31 Mohican Wind Harps www.mohicanwindharps.com p. 9
Sporobolus heterolepis (spoor-OB-oh-lus het-er-oh-LEP-iss), p. 46
Stachys byzantina (STAK-iss by-zan-TEEN-ah), p. 44
Streptocarpus sect. saintpaulia (strep-toe-KAR-pus section saynt-PAWL-ee- Greenhouses
ah), p. 22 Alitex www.alitex-greenhouses.com p. 13
Streptocarpus afroviola (strep-toe-KAR-pus af-roe-vy-OH-lah), p. 22
Florian Greenhouses www.floriangreenhouse.com p. 23
Streptocarpus shumensis (strep-toe-KAR-pus shew-MEN-sis), p. 22
Strobilanthes dyeriana (stroe-bih-LAN-theez dy-err-ee-AY-nah), p. 34 Gothic Arch Greenhouses www.gothicarchgreenhouses.com p. 11
Stromanthe sanguinea (stroh-MANTH-ee san-GWIN-ee-ah), p. 38 Hartley Botanic www.hartley-botanic.com p. 2
Symphyotrichum novae-angliae (sim-fee-oh-TRIK-um no-vay-AN-glee-ay), Janco Greenhouses, Inc. www.jancoinc.com p. 9
p. 70
Santa Barbara Greenhouses www.sbgreenhouse.com p. 29
Syngonium podophyllum (sin-GO-nee-um poe-doe-FILL-um), p. 38
Thymus serpyllum (TY-mus sir-PILL-um), p. 51 Sturdi-Built Greenhouse Mfgr. www.sturdi-built.com p. 27
Tiarella (tee-ar-EL-ah), p. 46
Tricyrtis ohsumiensis (try-SIR-tiss oh-soo-me-EN-sis), p. 12 Irrigation & Rainwater Harvesting
Tulipa (TEW-lih-pah), p. 48
Vaccinium corymbosum (vak-SIN-ee-um kor-im-BO-sum), p. 78 Dramm Corporation www.dramm.com p. 19
Vernonia (ver-NO-nee-ah), pp. 46, 48
Veronicastrum virginicum (ver-on-ih-KAS-trum ver-JIN-ih-kum), p. 44 Landscaping Products / Services
Viburnum (vy-BURN-um), p. 69
Chip Drop www.getchipdrop.com p. 23
Viburnum dentatum (vy-BURN-um den-TAY-tum), p. 77
Viguiera dentata (vih-GARE-ah den-TAY-tah), p. 75
Viola (vy-OH-lah), p. 51 Pest & Weed Control
Vrisea (virr-ISS-ee-ah), p. 38
Plantskydd www.plantskydd.com p. 11
Power Equipment
DR Power www.godrpower.com p. 27
INVASIVE ALERT
The following plant recommended in this issue is considered Protective Clothing

invasive in some areas of the country. For more information,
please visit invasiveplantatlas.org. Muck Boot Company www.muckbootcompany.com p. 17
NAME STATES PAGE
English ivy (Hedera helix ) AL, CA, GA, 35 Specialty Plants
IL, MD, NC, NJ,
Bluestone Perennials www.bluestoneperennials.com p. 7
OR, PA, SC, VA,
WA, WI, WV Dan’s Dahlias www.dansdahlias.com p. 27
Proven Winners www.provenwinners-shrubs.com p. 5
FG201pg.indd 81 7/15/21 1:25 PM

LAST WORD by Steve Aitken
Garden cleanup: Fall or spring?

T his year, I am going to do it: I am going to clean up my garden
in fall. No, don’t do it! I hear the voices say. The couch is comfy,
and your wife just brought home apple cider donuts from the orchard.
Facts seem to be hard to come by these days, but everyone knows
apple cider donuts are best eaten fresh, and every day they are not
consumed yields diminishing results. To wait is to waste, so eating
them now, I know, makes good financial sense. But every spring, as
I am hacking back the remains of perennials and grasses crushed by
snow, I say to myself, “Couldn’t I have done some of this last fall?”
No, don’t do it! I hear the voices say again. The insects and other little organisms like
to overwinter in the old stems and fallen leaves. But that shouldn’t be a problem. They
can overwinter in the scraggly edges of my property where I throw my garden debris.
And if I am honest with myself, I know there is no way I will clean my garden in a
manner that can be described as “complete” or “thorough.” No, don’t do it! You will be
taking away your garden’s winter interest. After a few cute frosts and light dustings of
flakes, winter interest eventually comes down to what looks good covered in snow.
That’s why shrubs and forgotten soccer balls stand out so well at that time of year.
Usually I start my cleanup about the time the pumpkin my son tried to carve into
a Pokemon character has started to rot, folding in on itself in a slow-scale implosion.
My typical autumn garden chores consist of cleaning up leaves, maple mostly. But I
find myself chopping up an array of foliage shapes and scattering them in my beds.
I enjoy the refreshing swish of the leaves being piled and the polite whirr of my
battery-powered mower as it chops the year’s foliage into bits. There is something
satisfying about watching the tiny brown squares sift through my fingers as I try
to avoid smothering the crowns of my plants. I always imagine the microorganisms
in the soil excitedly gobbling up all this organic material like it was so many apple
cider donuts.
So the insects and other living things that need a cozy blanket of leaves to ride
out winter will still have it. And when I cut back my perennials, I need to leave an
inch or two of stem standing and cut parallel to the ground. That way, the following
spring when I see this plant, I will know not to rip it out because it is something
that I cut back rather than some random weed that had taken advantage of my lack
of diligence.
Illustration: Lucy Truman, represented by Meiklejohn

As the shadows get long and the smell of woodsmoke from my neighbors’ houses
begins wafting through the air, I know the hour is getting late and I have missed the
early football games. I haven’t accomplished much other than to chop and drop the
leaves, but I am tempted to start cutting back spent stems of coneflowers and baptisia.
Over the years, I have gotten pretty good at ignoring the voices in my head, no matter
how much good sense they offer.
But there is always one voice I can’t ignore. “It’s getting cold out,” she says. “Why
don’t you come in? I’ll make you a hot toddy.” My sweet wife offering to make me a
whiskey drink on a brisk November afternoon is hard to resist. But then she throws
in the clincher: “If you don’t, I can’t guarantee the kids won’t eat all the apple cider
donuts.” And so, once again, there will be no cutting back until spring. ❦
FG201lw.indd 82 7/2/21 11:46 AM

CAPTIVATING
COMBINATION
1. ‘White Swan’ purple coneflower

(Echinacea purpurea ‘White Swan’,
Zones 4–9)
2 2. Shrubby hare’s ear (Bupleurum

fruiticosum, Zones 7–10)
CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade;
average, well-drained soil
Designed by Denise Lane

for her garden in Medina, Washington
Photo by Doreen Wynja
FG201cc.indd 83 7/7/21 12:59 PM

(Cyan)
(Magenta)
(Yellow)
There’s
still time.
Fall offers another opportunity to grow fresh, tasty salad crops. Spinach and
lettuce, for example, prefer cooler growing conditions. To get the best results,
be sure to use Osmocote® Smart-Release® Plant Food Flower & Vegetable.
If you grow your own, grow with Osmocote®.
© 2021 , The Scotts Company, LLC. All rights reserved

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native range: Garden origin

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• Wrap and insulate the plant. Common fig

4. Cut back foliage to correct legginess.