Preparing or maintaining an accommodation for;

Cotton top tamarins (sanguinis Oedipus)

Before entering the enclosure we looked around to see what needed to be done, and what we would need to
get out to do a spot clean on the enclosure, Also before entering you want to do a health and safety cheque to
make sure that you and the animal is safe so you would look out for electrical Such as lighting fixtures, hazard’s
or anything unusual .We started by flipping and raking the soil/bark that was on the floor we added hot water
into watering can to bring up the humidity in the enclosure, we did this all around the enclosure and used a
shovel and a rake to make sure it’s evenly distribute. We also moved any plant pots and moved then around
and moved some twigs around. While flipping the soil we picked up twigs and shrubs out of rotten or fell on
the floor and placed them into a bucket. We scraped faeces off surfaces on logs We used a scrapper and a
dustpan and brush to place into the bucket and wipe the surface down. Then I cleaned/ surfaces such as where
they eat and the windows, also wiped of any markings on the wall to make sure it a clean environment for
them, we used hot water with paper towel or a sponge try and not uses disinfectant as it can mess with their
senses and can trigger them to mark the whole enclosure and it would be in worse condition, you want it to be
homely for them. We have decided to move the Enrichment around the enclosure to change up for them as
they are very smart and added some food in there, we used cereal boxes and shredded paper to make sure
they are active and put sticks and toilet roll tubes to it keeps them active and away to work for their food.
Then dispose of any waste and food and twigs in the correct place to make sure there is no cross
contamination, and you have good bio security. Then clean or the equipment as They can get ill very easily,
then what the temperature in the humanity down on the board (max, min, Average). We work as a team to
finish it confidently; we meant the animal welfare by keeping to the animal's standards.one thing I would
probably do is find lemon juice as it is natural and there was no on the zone to uses to clean windows and wipe
surfaces down.
Preparing the diet for and feeding,
Swainson’s lorikeet (Trichoglossus haematodus)
rainbow lorikeets are classified as omnivores. they consume a variety of fruits and vegetables.
Carrots, sweet potatoes. Other healthy options are fresh sweet corn, apples, berries, broccoli, celery,
grapes, mango, melon, pears. For their diet, they consume Orlux Lori nectar, along with chopped
fruit and vegetables that they divide between two bowls. They also receive avimix mineral
supplements, but only a small amount. And throughout the day, fresh water should be available.
Additionally, they should be given their nectar as part of their evening meal. The nectar power is

combined with four heaping Spoonfuls to create the Lori nectar. Mix 800 ml of warm water into a
jug with the mixture until it is smooth enough for them to drink and all powered are incorporated
and evenly spread out between the two bottle dispensers. Additionally, the nectar solution needs to
be changed every day because it can spoil quickly, especially in varied weather conditions. This is
also necessary to keep the flock in good health and condition. Even full or large slices of the fruit
may be offered together with enrichment. The lorikeets can eat soft fruits should include 800
grammes of fruit in their daily diet. Cherrystones and peach pits are poisonous to birds Aswell as
other foods. There are various approaches. You can scatter feed them, which is a wonderful idea
because it encourages them to forage as they would in the wild. Or you may put it in a bowl, which is
ideal if you want to see how much they have consumed but is not something they would naturally
notice in the wild. You can also make enrichment for them by using toilet roll tubes with string to
hang them around enclosure or use an egg carton and put fruit inside the different holes and put
them in various places. You can also put the fruit on the sticks and in various places for them to find
them. I did this Independently and confidently while preparing their diet, but I do wish I was
prepared as it took me a little bit longer to find the ingredients could not find ingredients as there
was a short of fruit.
Handling
Bearded dragon (Pogona)
When starting a health check, you want to look at their behaviour are they comfortable, stressed,
scared, aggressive etc. The animal I had his mouth open, but I went in calmly, but You may use tools
to help you depending on the animal you have. To make the animal feel more confident when
holding it using two hands. When handling reptile there are a few things to help you handle you can
use gloves and a plastic box to support you, you also want to be on the floor or above a table as if
something happened you have support underneath the animals. These are good if they have sharp
claws and showing signs of aggression. there are diverse ways to hold animals for my animals which
was a bearded dragon. When doing this I had help such as them shutting the door of the enclosure
when I got the animal out if I had my hands full with the animal, you want to make sure the animal
feels safe. There is a various way to hold the bearded dragon I did 3 handling positions. One is where
you hold the animal to your chest and put hand on top they may wriggle around and try and get
comfortable, keep a hand ready in case it slips or falls If a bearded dragon begins to freak out while
holding it, do take your other hand and gently cup over it to provide a “hiding place.” This will give it
a feeling of security. The other one is like an upward claw where their head is facing outwards and
body is resting on, your hand and fingers go between there chest and around their head and the
hand goes on top to make them feel secure and safe. the other one where you wrap, your hands
around and support lower and upper body their arms should be resting over your finger, and the
thumbs should be on top of the bearded dragon to make them feel safer. This was carried out with
me and another person. This so I have some support and to shut enclosures behind me and if I
needed assistance with the animal. I am glad I didn’t uses gloves as you woudnt be able to feel or

hold them properaly but they are good to uses if have sharp claws.
Health check
Indian star tortoise (Geochelone elegans)
When beginning a health check, you should observe the subject's behaviour to determine whether
they are at ease, anxious, afraid. Depending on the animal you have, you might employ someone to
assist you. To make the tortoise feel secure, I held it with two hands, facing toward the band to
support it more. I also did this above a table with a box under me. When performing an animal
health check, you would begin at the front and work your way down to the bottom. Beginning at the
top, it prevents cross-contamination. Additionally, when doing this, make sure to examine the area
of the cage, the food and water supplies, and the output of urine and faeces. If there are any
difficulties with the animals, the temperature may be the cause. The food and drink were all gone
when I checked the tortoise's health, but there was still some water. While there were faeces all
around the enclosure, I was unable to observe any urine. The tortoise was semi-active and hardly
moving when we took it outside, put it in a box, and watched it activity levels. This could have been
caused by the cold temperature. All the shell was lifted off the ground with good posture and a
strong walk; there was no indication of leg weakness. The eyes had a weak appearance. Because of
the cold, the nose was wet and running, which could be symptoms of the flu. The mouth closed
easily and there was no additional beak; the beak was not overextended, to check hold head. The
tortoise's weight was healthy; you should weigh it once a week to see if it has put on or lost weight.
The tortoise's shell makes it challenging to assess its body condition. The shells were in average
condition. The shell had a uniform development pattern but no high pyramids, and the plastron was
lifting (underneath). The claws on the legs and feet were small enough to allow the animal to walk
and move itself around the enclosure without the presence of mites or cuts. There was no prolapse
or drainage from the cloaca. I did this on my own, it was done well, and there was no stress on the
animal. I was also confident when I did it and took my time to make sure the animal was healthy and
not stressed out when doing a health check and I wish I did put in a box to check activity but i did it
in the enclosure to not make it stressful for the animal.

Tasks 2
In addition to encouraging natural behaviours in captive animals, enrichment can support
this favourable mental wellness. Animals who are given enrichment have more choice and
control over how they spend their time, as well as a creative outlet for physical and mental
exercise. When doing the observation, there is two observations for both animals all four
observations are an hour this is to see if the enrichment improved. There are Visual
enrichment, olfactory (smell and taste) enrichment, auditory (sound) enrichment, and
tactile (touch) enrichment are some of the numerous types of enrichment that are broken
down into subcategories. All these senses play a crucial role in communication and serve as
options for gathering environmental data to make sure there not bored or anxious in their
captive environment.

The cotton top Tamarians were very sedentary when I first started observing them, not
moving at all, and hiding most of the time. Numerous factors, including the chilly
temperature of -2 and the Nosie surroundings, may be to blame. As a result, they became
anxious and wandered around to either hide or look around. I wanted to focus on food and
smells for the enrichment. I made Christmas crackers with meal words and some that had
three sentences. I made six in total. I added shredded paper to the crackers to give them
something to reconstruct with and play with. As they are very smart animals and very
interested in new things in their enclosure.
They were inactive for most of the observation period, as shown by the bar chart, although
they moved around to stay active and move around to stay warm and hid in the box and
beside heat lamp. This is a result of the observation's location in the Nosie habitat and the
chilly temperature, which can sometimes affect their behaviour and observation and how
they would normally react, in different environments and climates.

In the picture below you can see that they were uncertain and kind of nervous about the
enrichment but after a while they got uses to it but like the food more than the scented
ones but were equally interested in Boths as it was quite strong Sents.
This bar graph shows that there is a lot less of them lying around and that they were more
active while moving around, eating, playing, and investigating. As you can see from them
both, enrichment keeps them engaged and interested. Additionally, you can observe from
the observation that there was no stereotyped behaviour displayed which is good as you
don’t want to see that and you try and avoid that with, your captive animals. they were
foraging and eating on the ground and investigating with the enrichment and because it was
so different for them, they were running and jumping around as they were unsure, come
paired to the other observation. There was stereotypical behaviour, and they were inactive
through the observation and repeating their behaviours as the had nothing to do except
from climbing. But therefore, this why having enrichment is important as it keeps them
active and moving around and some can bring out natural behaviours that they would have
in the wild.

For this observation, I did coatis because they enjoy foraging and digging, and I also
observed other things to compare this to. Researching your animals in the past is beneficial
because it can help you understand their natural behaviours and provide ideas for
enrichment activities. It can also help you determine enrichment based of their age or
health issues of your animals. They don't enjoy sharing and there is a little one and an older
one to think about when doing enrichment. To determine their preferred food, I made two
boxes and put crickets and Mario worms inside each one. The boxes also contained toilet
paper rolls, shredded paper, and mice sawdust because they are predatory animals. I also
mixed in some of their morning diet and set the boxes on a flat surface outside of their
boxes where they sleep so it is easier access for the older coati. Planning enrichment will
help it go more smoothly and quickly, and research will let you determine whether they
adopt new behaviours or inhabit new habitats with different objects, which will allow you to
either better it or discover that they don't like it.

They didn't leave their box, but they were still active and moving around inside it when I
started this observation. The weather was cold that day—-6-degree weather and they didn't
leave their box. During the most of their observation, they were sleeping, eating, and
grooming themselves as they kept waking up in their box, they didn’t leave it as it was cold.
Eventually, they would wake up and sit up pop their head but wouldn’t full go out. They
were motionless and inert because of the weather and the fact that it was still early in the
morning. However, as you can see in the image below, they became very busy as soon as
they discovered something amusing in their enclosure, such as their new enrichment.

As you can see in the picture there prefer the one with Mario worms and didn’t touch the
other box which had crickets in, the like foreign in the boxes and investigating.
As you can see, the enrichment I created encouraged them to act more naturally and forage
as they would act in the in the wild and feed in the wild, as evidenced by the fact that they
were more active when they were eating and foraging. They were interacting with each
other, but the one box that contained Mario worms made them a little protective of it, and
they hardly touched the other one. It is important to conduct an experiment to determine
whether they prefer certain enrichment materials or just certain things in general, by this
you can improve and find if they didn’t enjoy it.

Overall, giving animals enrichment is a very fantastic way to, giving animals choices makes
them feel more in control of their environment, which is the goal. Some forms of
enrichment, such as just providing an environment suitable for the species, don't require
frequent modifications. In either situation, variety is necessary to prevent monotony and
general unhappiness. Enrichment is the process of increasing the complexity of the
environment in a way that is appropriate for the animal's genetic and behavioural needs and
considers the needs of the specific species. Overall, I wish I mixed Mario worms with the
crickets in two separate boxes, and I should have added natural herbs instead of oils.

Appendix