Testing Injector Nozzle

Before disassembling an injector an important step is to test it. The injector is connected to the
pressure line of the injector tester and tightened after the air is removed.

Figure Injector nozzle tester.

Perform the testes in the Following order:-
a. Opening pressure test
b. Leakage or valve-seat test
c. Back leakage test
d. Spray pattern test

Adjusting injection nozzle Opening Pressure

Testing Procedure:

Figure Opening pressure test.

a. Open the pressure gauge isolator after bleeding the system.

b. Operate the lever of the tester slowly until injection occurs.
c. Observe the pressure gauge and note highest reading just before injection pressure begins
to drop.
d. Compare the recorded opening pressure reading with manufacturer's specification. If the
actual pressure varies from the standard, the pre-tension of the pressure spring has to be
adjusted. This is done by the adjustment screw provided, or by adjusting shims of various
sizes. Adjusting Shims are usually available in sizes from 1.0 - 3.0mm thickness and in
steps of 0.05mm.
Note
If New Injection Nozzles has to be installed, adjust the opening pressure 5.0 to 10.0 bar above
the specified pressure in order to compensate a pressure drop caused by the short break-in
period of the needle valve.

Checking injection nozzle back Leakage Test

After the leakage or valve-seat test, some manufacturers recommend to perform a back leakage
test.

Testing Procedure:
a. Open the pressure gauge isolator on the tester.
b. Slowly depress the operating lever until stated pressure is shown on gauge.
c. Release the operating lever and note the time taken for pressure to fall.

The time for the pressure drop can be influenced by: -

1. The fuel temperature
2. The viscosity of the test fluid used
3. The length of the pressure line used.

Results
Generally, a pressure drop from 150 to 100 bar (P  50 bar) within a time not less than 6
seconds (T6 second), using shelf fluid “C” and maintaining a test temperature approximately
100 up to 200c indicates a satisfactory injector.

A higher pressure drops than specified can be caused by: -

a. Loose fuel pipe connections
b. High temperatures, causing thinning of the test oil
c. Loose nozzle cap or nozzle holder retaining nut.
d. Dirty or damaged sealing surfaces of nozzle and/or nozzle holder, which allows fuel to
escape.

Checking injection nozzle Leakage or Valve-Seat

Testing Procedure:
a. Open the pressure gauge isolator and wipe injector tip dry.
b. Depress the operating level of the tester slowly until the gauge indicates a pressure of about
10 to 20 bar below the before- measured opening pressure.
c. Maintain this pressure for 10 seconds and observe the injector tip.

Figure Leakage or valve-seat test

Results
If no fuel drop occurs during this time, the needle-valve seat is in good condition. If there is any
evidence of fuel at the tip, the needle-valve seat is defective. The nozzle assembly should be
replaced or overhauled.

Checking injection nozzle Spray Pattern

Testing Procedure:
a. Close the pressure gauge isolator on the tester.
b. Move the opening lever at about 1 strokes/second and observe the spray jet. A nozzle in
good condition shows a thin and even cone-shaped jet of spray without distortion and fine
atomized fuel.
c. After this, gradually increase the lever movement to about 2 strokes per second.

Figure Spray Pattern Test Results

Results
Now a characteristic "chattering or humming" sound should be noticed indicating a properly
working injector. This depends also very much on the test fluid used. If the injector does not
atomize the fuel completely, incomplete combustion, causing black smoke, a loss in engine
power and poor fuel economy, will result, figure 4.15. Increased diesel knock, due to the longer
delay period that follows poor atomization, will also be evident.
Bleeding the Diesel Fuel System
System with In-Line Pump
In general, bleeding is executed with the help of a priming pump, and follows certain steps of
procedure.
a. Loosen the priming pump by turning it counterclockwise.
b. Loosen the air vent screw positioned nearest to the priming pump in the system (usually
found on the fuel filter unit)
c. Operate the priming pump by hand until pure diesel fuel, free from air bubbles, comes out of
the air vent screw.
d. Tighten the air vent screw
e. Now, open the air vent plug on the fuel injection pump
f. Close the air vent screw when air bubbles disappear from fuel coming out of the plug.
g. Tighten the priming pump by pushing it downwards and turning it clockwise at the same
time.

With fuel systems provided with suction-side scavenging of the injection pump, the fuel
manifold can be bled without opening the air vent plug on the injection pump, by cranking the
engine at starter motor speed. The air escapes via the check and the fuel return line into the fuel
tank. Pull the stop lever back completely to ensure that the engine will not run.

System with Distributor (VE) Pump:

a. Usually, the bleeding procedure is the same as mentioned above.
b. The priming pump is usually positioned on the filter unit or fit to a pre-delivery pump, which
is placed between filter unit and tank.
c. Often the distributor pump does not require venting. In this case, no priming pump and pre-
delivery transfer pump is found in these fuel systems. The injection pump is "self venting"
when the engine operates.
Testing Oil Pressure

1. Locate the engine-sending unit for the instrument panel gauge or warning lamp. It is screwed into the
main oil gallery from the outside of the engine block. It also may be on or near the filter adapter.

2. Start and run the engine to normal operating temperature. Carmaker’s oil pressure specifications are
for a completely warm engine. Pressure will be high when the oil is cold.

Caution:

Most sending units require special sockets for removal and installation.

3. Disconnect the wire from the sending unit and use a suitable wrench to remove the unit.
4. Look up the carmaker’s pressure specifications and select a pressure gauge with a mid-scale range
that includes the highest specification. Usually, a zero to 75 – or 100 psi (500 – or 700 – kPa) gauge
is satisfactory. Manufacturers give pressure specifications at a specified rpm or at idle and medium
cruising speed.

5. Using a length of high – pressure hose or copper tubing and suitable fittings, connect the gauge to the
sending unit opening in the engine

6. Start the engine and run it at slow idle for about 1 minute. Compare the gauge reading to
specifications.

7. Slowly accelerate the engine to 1,500 to 2,000 rpm and let the speed and pressure stabilize. Compare
the gauge reading to specifications.

8. Stop the engine, remove the pressure gauge and reinstall and reconnect the oil pressure-sending unit.
 Testing Radiator and System Pressure
If the radiator cap is okay but the system still appears to lose pressure, test the system pressure as
follows:

1. With the engine cold, remove the cap from the radiator and add water, if necessary, to bring
the coolant level to 16mm below the neck of a down – flow radiator or 64mm below the neck
of a cross flow radiator.
2. Attach the pressure tester to the radiator filler neck, Figure 6.17. If required, use a filler
neck-sealing ring to seal the overflow tube opening.

Figure Testing Radiator and System Pressure

Caution
Do not over pressurize the system, which may damage the radiator.
3. With the tester securely attach to the radiator, operate the pump until the pressure gauge
indicates the specified system pressure.
4. Watch the gauge for at least 2 minutes. It should hold steady. If pressure drops, pump the
tester to maintain pressure and inspect for leaks. You can apply a soap – and – water
solution to radiator seams, hose connections, and gaskets to check for leakage.
If you do not find an external leak, the system may be leaking inside the engine.

Adjusting contact point gap

1. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
2. Rotate the engine with the starter or by turning the belt until the points are fully open.
3. Measure the gap with feeler gauge
4. Loosen the point hold – down screw and move the points if adjustment is necessary.
5. Tighten the screw and check the gap
6. Apply cam grease on the distributor cam.
Compression Test Procedure
Perform a compression test as follows:
1. Run the engine to normal operating temperature; then stop the engine.
2. Use compressed air to blow dirt away from the spark plugs or glow plugs.
3. Remove all spark plugs (gaskets and plug tubes, if installed) or glow plugs and keep them in
cylinder number order for reinstallation.
4. Disable the ignition or diesel injection system.
5. On a gasoline engine, block the throttle and choke linkage fully open to allow air to enter the
engine. This also keeps fuel from being drawn through the idle and low-speed circuits of the
carburetor, which could flood the engine and reduce cylinder lubrication.
6. Connect a remote starter switch to the engine, if desired.
7. Connect the gauge in to the plug opening of cylinder number 1 by:
 a. Screwing a gauge adapter into the threaded opening or
b. Inserting a tapered rubber gauge adapter into the plug opening and holding it firmly
during testing.

Figure Connecting the compression gauge to the cylinder

8. Using the ignition switch or a remote starter switch, crank the engine for four complete
compression strokes on that cylinder. Note the gauge reading on the first and fourth strokes.
9. Disconnect the gauge from the first cylinder and repeat step 7 and 8 on all other cylinders.
Compare the gauge readings to the carmaker’s specifications and the following test
guidelines.
 Compression increases steadily on all four strokes and is within specifications – the
cylinder compression is okay.
 Compression is low on the first stroke and increases on following strokes but does not
reach specifications – the piston rings or cylinder is probably worn.
 Compression is low on the first stroke and increases only slightly on following strokes –
the valves may be sticking or burned, or rings may be broken.
 Compression in two side – by – side cylinders is low – the head gasket probably is leaking
between the cylinders.
 The gauge reading is higher than normal – that cylinder may have excessive carbon
deposits in the combustion chamber.

If compression is low in any cylinder, you can continue with a wet compression test as follows:-

Caution
Do not perform a wet compression test on a diesel engine. Oil in the cylinders may cause
premature ignition and engine damage.

Wet compression testing is not valid on a horizontal engine because oil will not flow evenly
around a horizontal piston.
1. Pour a small amount of oil (about 1 tablespoon or 8 squirts from an oil can) into the cylinder
through the spark plug opening.
2. Allow about 30 seconds for the oil to flow around the top of the piston.
3. Repeat step 7 and 8 of the basic compression test.
4. Compare the wet test results to the basic test results for that cylinder.
If compression increases by 5 percent or 12 to 14psi, or more, that cylinder probably has worn
rings or cylinder walls. If compression does not increase, that cylinder probably has leakage past
the valves or head gasket.

Compression test results bar

(Psi) Specification
Cylinder No. Remark
bar (Psi)
Dry Wet

Leakage Test Procedure

Some leakage test equipment may include a whistle indicator. When the whistle is connected by
a hose to the cylinder adapter, it will sound, as the piston is cranked TDC on the compression
stroke. If your equipment includes a whistle indicator, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for
its use. You also can use the following general procedure to test cylinder leakage:
1. Run the engine to normal operating temperature. Then shut it off and disable the ignition.
2. Remove all spark plugs and gaskets, along with plug tubes if used.
3. Remove the air cleaner and block the choke and throttle valves fully open.
4. Disconnect the PCV valve inlet hose from the crankcase.
5. Remove the radiator cap. Be sure the coolant is at the specified level. Add water if
necessary.
6. Adjust the leakage test equipment according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
7. Remove the distributor cap and mark the location of the number 1 cylinder tower on the
distributor body.
8. Using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley, rotate the engine until the distributor rotator points
to the number 1 cylinder location on the distributor body.
9. Install the test adapter in the number 1 spark plug hole (if not already installed) and connect
the tester and the compressed air source.
10. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to pressurize the cylinder.
11. Read the leakage percentage shown on the tester gauge. Interpret the reading as follows:
Less than 10% = good compression
10% to 20% = fair compression
20% to 30% = poor compression
More than 30%= a leakage problem
12. If cylinder leakage is more than 20 percent, listen for air leakage at the following sources to
isolate the problem.
 Air escaping through the crankcase indicates worn or broken rings, a cracked or burned
piston, or worn cylinder walls.
 Air escaping through the exhaust pipe indicates a leaking exhaust valve.
 Air escaping through the carburetor indicates a leaking intake valve.
 Air bubbles in the radiator indicate a leaking head gasket or a cracked head or block.
 Two cylinders next to each other with high leakage indicate a leaking head gasket or an
engine crack between the cylinders.
13. Turn off the compressed air and disconnect the air source from the cylinder adapter.
14. Using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley, rotate the engine until the distributor rotor points at
the next cylinder tower location in firing order sequence. This places that cylinder at TDC
on the compression stroke.
15. Install the test adapter in the spark plug hole on the next cylinder.
16. Repeat steps 10 through 12 for all remaining cylinders.

Setting Initial Ignition Timing statically (Ignition timing using control lamp)

 locate the timing mark, which is usually on the crankshaft pulley, but is sometimes on the
flywheel.
Note

Never try to turn the engine by turning the fan.

 It is a good idea to clean and mark the pointer with white chalk to make it more visible.
 When you have made sure that the rotor is in the correct position, put back the distributor cap
and remove the high-tension central lead from the coil or distributor cap.
 Take a control lamp. If you haven’t one, then make it.
 Now, connect your control lamp to coil terminal no. 1. (CB). ()
 Connect the other terminal on the lamp to the engine or a chassis part, to earth it.
 Switch on the ignition. Do not crank the engine.
 Now you are ready to begin checking the present position of the ignition. Turn the
crankshaft very slowly by hand in the same direction as the engine runs.
 The moment a light appears on the control lamp the contact points begin to open, precisely at
the same moment as the spark plug of cylinder no. 1 fires.
 When the light appears, stop immediately and compare the position of the timing mark with
the position of the pointer. Record and compare them with the manufacturer’s data.
 If you discover that the timing is incorrect, which means that the light comes on before or
after the mark, you must make the necessary correction.
 Turn the engine until the marks meet at the recommended degree. To eliminate any play on
the distributor drive, advance at least 150 beyond this point, and then slowly turn back to the
correct position. Only by using this method you can be sure that the setting is exact.
 Loosen the distributor clamp screw.
 Slowly turn the distributor housing in the opposite direction to the rotation of the rotor, until
the light on the control lamp appears.
 You may have to repeat the process several times before you find the correct position,
because you may just miss the exact point where the light appears, which is identical with the
firing point of the spark plug on cylinder no. 1.
 When this happens, turn the distributor back and start again. Lightly tapping the distributor
with the handle of a screwdriver may be sufficient to move it slightly and help you to find the
position.

Note
 When timing the ignition, the distributor must always be turned in the opposite direction to the
rotation of the rotor. This will avoid any clearance from the rotor advance mechanism which
causes misalignment.
 Now, carefully tighten the clamp screw so that you will not change the position of the
distributor. After tightening, re-check the ignition timing.
 If the ignition point is still incorrect, you must repeat the whole operation until the timing is
correct. This means that the light on the test lamp must appear at the exact moment when the
mark is in alignment with the recommended degree or, as on some types of engine, when the
recommended degree is in alignment with the pointer.
 When the timing is correct, remove the control lamp and re-fit the central high-tension lead.
 You can then start the engine.

Setting Initial Ignition Timing dynamically (Ignition timing using stroboscope lamp)
 It may be necessary to turn the engine until the timing marks appear.
 If the marks are not clearly visible, coat the timing mark and the pointer with white chalk.
 Start the engine and warm it up until it runs smoothly without assistance from the choke.
Never pollute the atmosphere of the workshop. Extend the exhaust pipe with a flexible tube
to transfer the exhaust gas outside.
 Stop the engine.
 Connect the rpm tester (tachometer) to the engine. Read the manufacturer’s operation
description for the correct connection.
 The tachometer is, in most cases, connected to the coil connection no. 15 (plus or SW). The
other lead should be connected to the terminal marked no. 1 (minus or CB).
 Disconnect the distributor vacuum hose from the carburetor and tape the manifold opening.
This is necessary to avoid obtaining a wrong result from the vacuum advance mechanism. If
the distributor is equipped with two vacuum hoses, disconnect and take both away. Then
close the openings with tape.
 Now connect the wire marked HT (it is usually the thick wire on the Stroboscope Lamp) to
the spark plug of no. 1 cylinder distributor cap tower. This usually requires an extension
which will be supplied with the Stroboscope Lamp.
 Connect the other two wires. Connect the one marked + (15 or SW) to the battery +
terminal, or to the ignition coil connection no. 15 (SW) and the other one, marked with the
ground symbol, to earth.

Note
Before connecting the Stroboscope Lamp, ensure that the described recommendation is identical
with the manufacturer’s instructions.

 Start the engine. Set it at idle speed, mostly at about 750 engine revolutions. Engines with
automatic transmission often require a higher speed but some engines should be timed at a
lower speed.
 Now, push the button of the timing light which will flash when cylinder no. 1 fires. Hold the
flashlight beam as close as possible to the pointer.