Dodge Nitro 2007 Service Repair Manual

2007 Dodge Nitro R/T
2007 ENGINE 3.7L - Service Information - Nitro
2007 ENGINE
3.7L - Service Information - Nitro
DESCRIPTION
3.7L ENGINE DESCRIPTION
Fig. 1: 3.7L Engine

Courtesy of CHRYSLER LLC
The 3.7 liter (226 CID) six-cylinder engine is an 90° single overhead camshaft engine. The cast iron cylinder
block is made up of two different components; the first component is the cylinder bore and upper block, the
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second component is the bedplate that comprises the lower portion of the cylinder block and houses the lower
half of the crankshaft main bearings. The cylinders are numbered from front to rear with the left bank being
numbered 1, 3, and 5 and the right bank being numbered 2, 4, and 6. The firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2. The engine
serial number is located at the right front side of the engine block. See Fig. 1.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise
the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.

2. Remove the spark plugs.
3. Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
4. Disable the fuel system (Refer to FUEL DELIVERY - GAS ).
5. Remove the ASD relay. Refer to REMOVAL .
6. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
7. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders.
8. See SPECIFICATIONS for the correct engine compression pressures.
ENGINE MECHANICAL DIAGNOSTIC TABLE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIONS

NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in 1. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS .
crankcase.
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil and filter.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
4. Dirt in lash adjusters. 4. Clean or replace as necessary.
5. Worn rocker arms. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Worn valve guides. 6. See STANDARD
PROCEDURE.
7. Excessive runout of valve 7. Service valves and valve seats.
seats. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
ENGINE VIBRATION 1. Counter Balance Shaft not 1. Refer to Engine Timing in this
timed properly article
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS .
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wear.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Connecting rod journal out-of- 5. Service or replace crankshaft.
round.
6. Misaligned connecting rods. 6. Replace bent connecting rods.
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS .
wear.
5. Excessive end play. 5. Check thrust washers for wear.
6. Crankshaft journal out-of 6. Service or replace crankshaft.
round.
7. Loose flywheel or torque 7. Tighten to correct torque
converter.
ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by routine
maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either performance (e.g, engine idles rough and stalls) or mechanical
(e.g, a strange noise).
See ENGINE PERFORMANCE DIAGNOSTIC TABLE and ENGINE MECHANICAL DIAGNOSTIC

TABLE for possible causes and corrections of malfunctions. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can not be
isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts. Information concerning additional tests and diagnosis is provided
within the following diagnosis:
Cylinder Compression Pressure Test. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.

Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).

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Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.

Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.
1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
4. Remove the oil filler cap.
5. Remove the air cleaner.
6. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should
maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
7. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. Set
piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compression. While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in
the cylinder.
Refer to step CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH Intake valve bent, burnt, or not Inspect valve and valve seat.
THROTTLE BODY seated properly Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH Exhaust valve bent, burnt, or not Inspect valve and valve seat.
TAILPIPE seated properly Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH Head gasket leaking or cracked Remove cylinder head and
RADIATOR cylinder head or block inspect. Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE Head gasket leaking or crack in Remove cylinder head and
FROM ADJACENT cylinder head or block between inspect. Replace gasket, head, or
CYLINDERS adjacent cylinders block as necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE Stuck or broken piston rings; Inspect for broken rings or piston.
AND AIR ESCAPES THROUGH cracked piston; worn rings and/or Measure ring gap and cylinder
OIL FILLER CAP OPENING cylinder wall diameter, taper and out-of-round.
ONLY Replace defective part as
necessary
ENGINE LUBRICATION DIAGNOSTIC TABLE
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION

OIL LEAKS 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. -
(a) Misaligned or damaged. (a) Replace as necessary.
(b) Loose fasteners, broken or (b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or
porous metal parts. replace metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal 2. Replace as necessary. See
REMOVAL.
3. Crankshaft seal flange. 3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
Scratched, nicked or grooved.
4. Oil pan flange cracked. 4. Replace oil pan. See
REMOVAL.
5. Timing chain cover seal 5. Re-seal timing cover.
damaged.
6. Scratched or damaged vibration 6. Polish or replace damper.
damper hub.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check and correct oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Replace sending unit. See
REMOVAL.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pump and bearing
clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Replace oil filter. See
REMOVAL.
5. Worn oil pump. 5. Replace oil pump. See
REMOVAL.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 8. Replace oil pump. See
REMOVAL.
9. Oil pick up tube loose, damaged 9. Replace as necessary.
or clogged.
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; 1. Worn or damaged rings. 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace
SPARK PLUGS FOULING rings.
2. Carbon in oil ring slots. 2. Replace rings. See
STANDARD PROCEDURE.
3. Incorrect ring size installed. 3. Replace rings. See
STANDARD PROCEDURE.
4. Worn valve guides. 4. Ream guides and replace
valves. See STANDARD
PROCEDURE.
5. Leaking valve guide seals. 5. Replace valve guide seals.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE DIAGNOSTIC TABLE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CORRECTION
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CAUSE
ENGINE WILL 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace
NOT START as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose 2. Clean and tighten
battery connections. battery connections.
Apply a coat of
light mineral grease
to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. Refer to
DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING .
4. Faulty coil or 4. Refer to
control unit. REMOVAL .
5. Incorrect spark 5.
plug gap.
6. Incorrect right 6. Refer to engine
bank cam timing. timing in this
article.
7. Dirt or water in 7. Clean system and
fuel system. replace fuel filter.
8. Faulty fuel pump, 8. Repair or replace
relay or wiring. as necessary.
9. Faulty cam or 9. Refer to Ignition
crank sensor system.
ENGINE STALLS 1. Vacuum leak. 1. Inspect intake
OR ROUGH IDLE manifold and
vacuum hoses, -
repair or replace as
necessary.
2. Faulty crank 2. Replace crank
position sensor position sensor.
3. Faulty coil. 3. Refer to
REMOVAL .
4. Incorrect cam 4. See STANDARD
timing. PROCEDURE.
ENGINE LOSS OF 1. Dirty or 1. Refer to SPARK
POWER incorrectly gapped PLUG
spark plugs.
3. Faulty fuel pump. 3. (Refer to PUMP-
FUEL ).
4. Blown cylinder 4. Replace cylinder
head gasket. head gasket.
5. Low 5. See
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compression. DIAGNOSIS AND

TESTING, repair
as necessary.
6. Burned, warped 6. Replace as
or pitted valves. necessary.
7. Plugged or 7. Inspect and
restricted exhaust replace as
system. necessary.
REMOVAL .
9. Incorrect cam 9. Refer to Engine
timing. Timing in this
article.
ENGINE MISSES 1. Spark plugs dirty 1. (Refer to SPARK
ON or incorrectly PLUG ).
ACCELERATION gapped.
2. Dirt in fuel 2. Clean fuel
system. system.
3. Burned, warped 3. Replace as
or pitted valves. necessary.
REMOVAL .
ENGINE MISSES 1. Spark plugs dirty 1. (Refer to SPARK
AT HIGH SPEED or incorrectly PLUG ).
gapped.
REMOVAL .
STANDARD PROCEDURE
ENGINE GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION
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Fig. 2: Proper Tool Usage for Surface Preparation

1 - ABRASIVE PAD
2 - 3M ROLOC™ BRISTLE DISC
3 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface preparation must be performed, especially with the use of
aluminum engine components and multi-layer steel cylinder head gaskets.
Never use the following to clean gasket surfaces:
Metal scraper (3).

Abrasive pad (1) or paper to clean cylinder block and head.
High speed power tool (1) with an abrasive pad or a wire brush.
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NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:
Solvent or a commercially available gasket remover

Plastic or wood scraper.
Drill motor with 3M Roloc™ Bristle Disc (white or yellow).
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond the recommended speed), can
damage the sealing surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is
recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80 grit) bristle disc may
be used on cast iron surfaces with care.
ENGINE CORE AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Fig. 3: Core Hole Plug Removal

1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
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3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER

4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the cup plug (5). With the cup plug
rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suitable tool and remove plug. See Fig. 3.
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as restricted cooling can result and
cause serious engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylinder block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer. Lightly coat
inside of cup plug hole with Mopar® Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug is cleaned of all oil
or grease. Using proper drive plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of the plug is at least 0.5 mm
(0.020 in.) inside the lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant. The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle placed in
service immediately.
REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of:
Drilling out worn or damaged threads.

Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or equivalent.
Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 4: Removing/Installing A/C Compressor

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.

2. Remove hood. Mark hood hinge location for reinstallation.
3. Remove air cleaner assembly.
4. Remove radiator core support bracket.
5. Remove fan shroud with electric fan assembly.
6. Remove mechanical cooling fan.
7. Remove drive belt.
NOTE: It is NOT necessary to discharge the A/C system to remove the engine.
8. Remove A/C compressor (2) and secure away from engine with lines attached.
Fig. 5: Removing/Installing Generator

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1 - LOWER BOLTS
2 - REAR BOLT
3 - GENERATOR
NOTE: Do NOT remove the phenolic pulley from the P/S pump. It is not required
for P/S pump removal.
9. Remove power steering pump with lines attached and secure away from engine.
10. Drain cooling system.
11. Remove coolant bottle.
12. Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine.
13. Disconnect heater hoses from heater core and remove hose assembly.
14. Remove generator (3) and secure away from engine.
15. Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
16. Remove upper radiator hose from engine.
17. Remove lower radiator hose from engine.
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Fig. 6: Crankshaft Position Sensor & Cylinder Head Cover

1-
CRANKSHAFT
POSITION
SENSOR
2 - CYLINDER
HEAD COVER
3-
CAMSHAFT
POSITION
SENSOR
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4 - RIGHT
SIDE
CYLINDER
BLOCK
18. Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the following points:

 Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
 Fuel Injectors
 Electronic Throttle Control (ETC)
 Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
 Engine Oil Pressure Switch
 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
 Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
 Coil Over Plugs
 Crankshaft Position Sensor (2)
19. Remove coil over plugs.

20. Release fuel rail pressure.
21. Remove fuel rail and secure away from engine.
Fig. 7: Identifying Nut, Ground Strap & Brake Booster

1 - NUT
2-
GROUND
STRAP
3-
BRAKE
BOOSTER
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NOTE: It is not necessary to release the quick connect fitting from the fuel supply
line for engine removal.
22. Remove the PCV hose.

23. Remove the breather hoses.
24. Remove the vacuum hose for the power brake booster.
25. Disconnect knock sensors.
26. Disconnect the engine to body ground straps (2) at the cowl.
Fig. 8: 3.7L Intake Torque Sequence

27. Remove intake manifold.

28. Remove engine oil dipstick tube.
29. Install Engine Lifting Fixture 8427.
NOTE: Recheck bolt torque for engine lift plate before removing engine.
30. Secure the left and right engine wiring harnesses away from engine.
31. Raise vehicle.
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Fig. 9: Starter Motor - 3.7L

32. Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.

33. Disconnect the engine block heater power cable, if equipped.
34. Disconnect the front propshaft at the front differential and secure out of way.
NOTE: It is necessary to disconnect the front propshaft for access to the starter
and left side exhaust flange.
35. Remove the ground straps from the left and right side of the block.
36. Disconnect the right and left exhaust pipes at the manifolds and from the crossover, and remove from the
vehicle.
NOTE: The exhaust clamps at the manifolds cannot be reused. New clamps must
be used or leaks may occur.
NOTE: For manual transmission vehicles, the transmission must be removed

from the vehicle, before the engine can be removed. The manual
transmission will contact the floorpan before the engine clears the motor
mounts, so it must be removed.
37. Remove the starter. Refer to REMOVAL .
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Fig. 10: Structural Cover

1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
38. Remove the structural cover retaining bolts (1), and cover. See REMOVAL.
39. Remove torque convertor bolts, and mark location for reassembly.
40. Remove transmission bellhousing to engine bolts.
41. Loosen left and right engine mount thru bolts.
NOTE: It is not necessary to completely remove engine mount thru bolts, for
engine removal.
42. Lower the vehicle.

43. Support the transmission with a suitable jack.
44. Connect a suitable engine hoist to the engine lift plate.
45. Remove engine from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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1. Position the engine in the vehicle.

2. Install both left and right side engine mounts onto engine.
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Install the transmission bellhousing to engine mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 41 N.m (30ft. lbs.).
5. Tighten the engine mount thru bolts.
6. Install the torque convertor bolts.
7. Connect the ground straps on the left and right side of the engine.
8. Install the starter (2). Refer to INSTALLATION .
Fig. 12: Structural Cover

1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
9. Install the engine block heater power cable, if equipped.
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CAUTION: The structural cover requires a specific torque sequence. Failure to

follow this sequence may cause severe damage to the cover.
10. Install the structural cover, and torque bolts (1). See INSTALLATION.
NOTE: New clamps must be used on exhaust manifold flanges. Failure to use new
clamps may result in exhaust leaks.
11. Install the left and right exhaust pipes.

12. Connect the left and right oxygen sensors.
13. Lower vehicle.
Fig. 13: Body Ground Strap-Left Side Removal/Installation

1 - NUT
2-
GROUND
STRAP
3-
BRAKE
BOOSTER
14. Connect the engine to body ground straps at the cowl.

15. Remove the engine lift plate.
16. Connect the knock sensors.
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17. Install the intake manifold. See INSTALLATION.

18. Install the engine oil dipstick tube.
19. Install the power brake booster vacuum hose.
20. Install the breather hoses.
21. Install the PCV hose.
22. Install the fuel rail.
23. Install the coil over plugs.
Fig. 15: Crankshaft Position Sensor & Cylinder Head Cover

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1-
CRANKSHAFT
POSITION
SENSOR
2 - CYLINDER
HEAD COVER
3-
CAMSHAFT
POSITION
SENSOR
4 - RIGHT
SIDE
CYLINDER
BLOCK
24. Connect the engine wiring harness at the following points:

 Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
 Fuel Injectors
 Electronic Throttle Control (ETC)
 Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
 Engine Oil Pressure Switch
 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
 Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
 Coil Over Plugs
 Crankshaft Position Sensor (2)
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Fig. 16: Removing/Installing Generator - 3.7L

1 - LOWER BOLTS
2 - REAR BOLT
3 - GENERATOR
25. Connect lower radiator hose.

26. Connect upper radiator hose.
27. Connect throttle and speed control cables.
28. Install the heater hose assembly.
29. Install coolant recovery bottle.
30. Install the power steering pump.
31. Install the generator (3). Refer to INSTALLATION .
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32. Install the A/C compressor (2).

33. Install the drive belt. Refer to INSTALLATION .
34. Install the fan shroud with the electric fan assembly. Refer to INSTALLATION .
35. Install the radiator core support bracket.
36. Install the air cleaner assembly.
37. Refill the engine cooling system.
38. Install the hood.
39. Check and fill engine oil.
40. Connect the battery negative cable.
41. Start the engine and check for leaks.
SPECIFICATIONS
3.7L ENGINE
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Type 90° SOHC V6 12 Valve
Number of Cylinders 6
Firing Order 1-6-5-4-3-2
Lead Cylinder No. 1 Left Bank
Compression Ratio 9.6:1
Max. Variation Between Cylinders 25%
Metric Standard
Displacement 3.7 Liters 226 Cubic Inches
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Bore 93.0 mm 3.66 in.

Stroke 90.8 mm 3.40 in.
Horsepower 211 @ 5200 RPM
Torque 236 ft.lbs.@ 4000 RPM
Compression Pressure 1172-1551 kPa 170-225 psi
CYLINDER BLOCK
Metric Standard
Bore Diameter 93.013 ± 0.0075 mm 3.6619 ± 0.0003 in.
Out of Round (MAX) 0.076 mm 0.003 in.
Taper (MAX) 0.051 mm 0.002 in.
PISTONS
Metric Standard
Diameter 92.975 mm 3.6605 in.
Weight 365.0 grams 12.87 oz
Ring Groove Diameter
No. 1 85.37 - 83.13 mm 3.282 - 3.273 in
No. 2 82.833 - 83.033 mm 3.261 - 3.310 in.
No. 3 83.88 - 84.08 mm 3.302 - 3.310 in.
PISTON PINS
Metric Standard
Clearance In Piston 0.006 - 0.015 mm 0.0002 - 0.0005 in.
Diameter 24.017 - 24.020 mm 0.9455 - 0.9456 in.
PISTON RINGS
Metric Standard
Ring Gap
Top Compression Ring 0.20 - 0.36 mm 0.0079 - 0.0142 in.
Second Compression Ring 0.37 - 0.63 mm 0.0146 - 0.0249 in.
Oil Control (Steel Rails) 0.25 - 0.76 mm 0.0099 - 0.30 in.
Side Clearance -
Oil Ring (Steel Ring) 0.019 - 0.229 mm 0.0007 - 0.0091 in.
Ring Width
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Oil Ring (Steel Rails) 0.445 - 0.470 mm 0.017 - 0.018 in.
CONNECTING RODS
Metric Standard
Bearing Clearance 0.006 - 0.044 mm 0.0002 - 0.0017 in.
Side Clearance 0.10 - 0.35 mm 0.004 - 0.0138 in.
Piston Pin Clearance 0.015 - 0.028 mm 0.0006 - 0.0011 in.
Bearing Bore Out of Round 0.004 mm 0.0002 in.
(MAX)
Total Weight (Less Bearing) 612 grams 21.588 ounces
CRANKSHAFT
Metric Standard
Main Bearing Journal Diameter 63.488 - 63.512 mm 2.4996 - 2.5005 in.
Taper (MAX) 0.006 mm 0.0004 in.
End Play 0.052 - 0.282 mm 0.0021 - 0.0112 in.
End Play (MAX) 0.282 mm 0.0112 in.
Connecting Rod Journal Diameter 57.908 - 57.892 mm 2.2798 - 2.2792 in.
Bearing Clearance 0.006 - 0.044 0.0002 - 0.0011 in.
Taper (MAX) 0.006 mm 0.0002 in.
CAMSHAFT
Metric Standard
Bore Diameter 26.02 - 26.04 mm 1.0245 - 1.0252 in.
Bearing Journal Diameter 25.975 - 25.995 mm 1.0227 - 1.0235 in.
Bearing Clearance (MAX) 0.065 mm 0.0026 in.
End Play 0.075 -0.200 mm 0.003 - 0.0079 in.
VALVE TIMING
Intake
Opens (BTDC) 5.6°
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Closes (ATDC) 240.1°

Duration 245.7°
Exhaust
Opens (BTDC) 241.5°
Closes (ATDC) 20.1°
Duration 261.6°
Valve Overlap 25.7°
VALVES
Metric Standard
Face Angle 45° - 45.5°
Head Diameter
Intake 48.52 - 48.78 mm 1.9103 - 1.9205 in.
Exhaust 36.87 - 37.13 mm 1.4516 - 1.4618 in.
Length (Overall)
Intake 113.45 - 114.21 mm 4.4666 - 4.4965 in.
Exhaust 114.92 - 115.68 mm 4.5244 - 4.5543 in.
Stem Diameter
Intake 6.931 - 6.957 mm 0.2729 - 0.2739 in.
Exhaust 6.902 - 6.928 mm 0.2717 - 0.2728 in.
Stem-to-Guide Clearance
Intake 0.018 - 0.069 mm 0.0008 - 0.0028 in.
Exhaust 0.047 - 0.098 mm 0.0019 - 0.0039 in.
Max. Allowable Stem-to-Guide
Clearance (Rocking Method)
Intake 0.069 mm 0.0028 in.
Exhaust 0.098 mm 0.0039 in.
Valve Lift (Zero Lash)
Intake 12.00 mm 0.472 in.
Exhaust 12.00 mm 0.472 in.
VALVE SPRING
Metric Standard
Free Length (Approx.)
Exhaust - w/damper 49.2 mm 1.973 in.
Spring Force (Valve Closed)
Intake 332.0 - 368.0 N @ 40.12 mm 74.63 - 82.72 lbs. @ 1.5795 in.
Exhaust - (without damper) 356 - 394 N @ 39.12 mm 80.031 - 88.57 lbs. @ 1.54 in.
Spring Force (Valve Open)
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Intake 948.0 - 1038.0 N @ 28.12 mm 213.2 - 233.8 lbs. @ 1.107 in.

Exhaust - without damper 874 - 956 N @ 27.12 mm 196.5 - 214.9 lbs. @ 1.067 in.
Number of Coils - -
Intake 7.30
Exhaust 7.15
Wire Diameter - -
Intake 4.77 x 3.80 mm 0.1878 x 0.1496 in.
Exhaust 4.66 x 3.72 mm 0.1843 x.1464 in.
Installed Height (Spring Seat to
Bottom of Retainer)
Nominal
Exhaust - w/damper 40.12 mm 1.579 in.
CYLINDER HEAD
Metric Standard
Gasket Thickness (Compressed) 0.7 mm (0.0276 in.)
Valve Seat Angle 44.5° - 45.0°
Valve Seat Runout (MAX) 0.051 mm 0.002 in.
Valve Seat Width
Intake 1.75 - 2.36 mm 0.0698 - 0.0928 in.
Exhaust 1.71 - 2.32 mm 0.0673 - 0.0911 in.
Guide Bore Diameter (Std.) 6.975 - 7.00 mm 0.2747 - 0.2756 in.
Cylinder Head Warpage (Flatness) 0.0508 mm 0.002 in.
OIL PUMP
Metric Standard
Clearance Over Rotors/End Face 0.095 mm 0.0038 in.
(MAX)
Cover Out - of -Flat (MAX) 0.025 mm 0.001 in.
Inner and Outer Rotor Thickness 12.02 mm 0.4731 in.
Outer Rotor to pocket (Diameter) .235 mm 0.0093 in.
clearance (MAX)
Outer Rotor Diameter (MIN) 85.925 mm 0.400 in.
Tip Clearance Between Rotors 0.150 mm 0.006 in.
(MAX)
OIL PRESSURE
SPECIFICATION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
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At Curb Idle Speed (MIN)* 25 kPa 4 psi

@ 3000 rpm 170 - 758 kPa 25 - 110 psi
* CAUTION: If pressure is zero at curb idle, DO NOT run engine at 3000 rpm.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N.m Ft. In.
- Lbs. Lbs.
Camshaft - - -
Non - Oiled Sprocket Bolt 122 90 -
Bearing Cap Bolts 11 - 100
Counterbalance shaft retaining bolt 28 - 250
Timing Chain Cover Bolts 58 43 -
Connecting Rod Cap Bolts 27 20 -
PLUS 90° TURN
Bed Plate-Bolts Refer to Procedure
Crankshaft Damper Bolt 175 130 -
Cylinder Head Bolts
M11 Bolts Refer To Procedure
M8 Bolts Refer To Procedure
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts 12 - 105
Exhaust Manifold Bolts 25 18 -
Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Nuts 8 - 72
Then loosen 45°
Flexplate Bolts 95 70 -
Engine Mount Bracket to Block Bolts 61 45 -
Rear Mount to Transmission Bolts 46 34 -
Generator Mounting Bolts
M10 Bolts 54 40 -
M8 Bolts 28 - 250
Intake Manifold Bolts 12 - 105
Refer to Procedure for
Tightening Sequence
Oil Pan Bolts 15 - 130
Oil Pan-Drain Plug 34 25 -
Oil Pump Bolts 28 - 250
Oil Pump Cover Bolts 12 - 105
Oil Pickup Tube Bolt and Nut 28 - 250
Oil Dipstick Tube to Engine - - -
Block Bolt 15 - 130
Oil Fill Tube Bolts 12 - 105
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Timing Chain Guide Bolts 28 - 250

Timing Chain Tensioner Arm Bolt 28 - 250
Hydraulic Tensioner Bolts 28 - 250
Timing Chain Primary Tensioner Bolts 28 - 250
Timing Drive Idler Sprocket Bolt 34 25 -
Thermostat Housing Bolts 12 - 105
Water Pump Bolts 58 43 -
SPECIAL TOOLS
3.7L ENGINE
Fig. 18: Spanner Wrench 6958

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Fig. 19: Adapter Pins 8346

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Fig. 20: Front Crankshaft Seal Remover 8511

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Fig. 21: Front Crankshaft Seal Installer 8348

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Fig. 22: Universal Driver Handle - C4171

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Fig. 23: Rear Crankshaft Seal Installer 8349

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Fig. 24: Rear Crankshaft Seal Remover 8506

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Fig. 25: Connecting Rod Guides 8507

Fig. 26: Crankshaft Damper Installer 8512

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Fig. 27: Puller

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Fig. 28: Crankshaft Damper Removal Insert 8513

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Fig. 29: Chain Tensioner Wedge 8379

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Fig. 30: Chain Tensioner Pins 8514

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Fig. 31: Valve Spring Compressor 8426

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Fig. 32: Engine Lifting Fixture 8427

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Fig. 33: Camshaft Holder 8428

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Fig. 34: Holder Secondary Camshaft Chain 8429

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Fig. 35: Remover, Rocker Arm 8516

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Fig. 36: Idler Shaft Remover 8517

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Fig. 37: Valve Spring Compressor Adapters 8519

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Fig. 38: Installer - Remover - Counter Balance Shaft 8641

Fig. 39: Valve Spring Tester C-647

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Fig. 40: Dial Indicator C-3339

Fig. 41: Valve Spring Compressor

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Fig. 42: Bore Size Indicator C-119

Fig. 43: Oil Pressure Gauge C-3292

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Fig. 44: Piston Ring Compressor C-385

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Fig. 45: Cooling System Tester 7700

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Fig. 46: Bloc-Chek-Kit C-3685-A

AIR INTAKE SYSTEM

CLEANER-AIR ELEMENT
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 47: Air Cleaner Element - 3.7L

1 - AIR INTAKE HOSE

2 - HOSE CLAMP
3 - COVER
4 - CLIPS (2)
Housing removal is not necessary for element (filter) replacement.
1. Pry up spring clips (4) from front of housing cover (spring clips retain cover to housing). See Fig. 47.
2. Release housing cover from 4 locating tabs located on rear of housing, and remove cover.
3. Remove air cleaner element (filter) from housing.
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4. Clean inside of housing before replacing element.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
1. Install element into housing.

2. Position housing cover into housing locating tabs.
3. Pry up spring clips and lock cover to housing.
If any air filter, air resonator, air intake tubes or air filter housing clamps had been loosened or removed, tighten
them to 5 N.m (40 in. lbs.)
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT

DESCRIPTION
VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are made of powered metal and are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are not
replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide reaming is not recommended. If the guides are worn beyond
acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.
HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several items. Check the following items.
1. Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to
be spongy.
2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be required.
3. Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has
reached normal operating temperature.
4. Low oil pressure.
5. The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.
6. Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked oil pump pick up.
7. Worn valve guides.
8. Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer.
9. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
10. Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylinder head.
11. Faulty lash adjuster.
Check lash adjusters for sponginess while installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at base
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circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel firm when pressed
quickly. When pressed very slowly, lash adjusters should collapse.
Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
Before installation, make sure adjusters are full of oil. This can be verified by little plunger travel
when lash adjuster is depressed quickly.
CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the adjacent
water jacket.
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
 Loss of engine power

 Engine misfiring
 Poor fuel economy
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket are:
 Engine overheating
 Loss of coolant
 Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from exhaust
 Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the procedures in
Cylinder Compression Pressure Test. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING. An engine cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50 - 70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH

COOLANT PRESSURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until thermostat
opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP

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FAST. EXCESSIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS ENGINE

OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A SAFE PRESSURE POINT.
NEVER PERMIT PRESSURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester's
pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or equivalent.
Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 48: Timing Chain Cover & Crankshaft Timing Marks

1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER

2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the left side exhaust manifold.
4. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to COOLING .
6. Remove the intake manifold. Refer to procedure in this article.
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7. Remove the cylinder head cover. Refer to procedure in this article.

8. Remove the fan shroud and fan blade assembly. Refer to COOLING .
9. Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to COOLING .
10. Remove the power steering pump and set aside.
11. Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (2). See Fig. 48.
Fig. 49: Verifying V6 Mark On Camshaft Sprocket Is At 12 O'clock Position

1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD

2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
12. Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position. See Fig. 49. Rotate the
crankshaft one turn if necessary.
13. Remove the crankshaft damper. See REMOVAL.
14. Remove the timing chain cover. See REMOVAL).
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Fig. 50: Special Tool 8429, Camshaft Chain & Crankshaft Timing Gear
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8429

2 - CAMSHAFT CHAIN
3 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR
15. Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler sprocket using Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder 8429 (1).
See Fig. 50.
NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to removal to aid in installation.
16. Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on each side of the V6 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
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17. Remove the left side secondary chain tensioner.
Fig. 51: Removing Cylinder Head Access Plug

1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG

2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
18. Remove the cylinder head access plug (1) (2). See Fig. 51.
19. Remove the left side secondary chain guide.
20. Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft drive gear.
CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. Severe damage to the valve train
can occur.
CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at the front of the cylinder
head. Do not attempt to remove the cylinder head without removing
these four bolts.
NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder block with twelve bolts.
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21. Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.

22. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the gasket.
CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gasket sealing surface, due to the
design of the cylinder head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head
sealing surface may prevent the gasket from properly sealing resulting in
leaks.
CLEANING
CYLINDER HEADS

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aluminum engine components. See Fig. 52. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
Fig. 53: Stretched Bolt, Threads Are Not Straight On Line, Threads Are Straight On Line & Unstreched
Bolt
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLT
NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The
bolts must be examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down the
bolts should be replaced.
Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale
(1), the bolt should be replaced. See Fig. 53.
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CAUTION: When cleaning cylinder head and cylinder block surfaces, DO NOT use a
metal scraper because the surfaces could be cut or ground. Use only a
wooden or plastic scraper.
1. Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces. See Fig. 54.
2. Position the new cylinder head gasket on the locating dowels.
CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care not damage the tensioner
arm or the guide arm.
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3. Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over the
locating dowels.
Fig. 55: Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening Sequence

* - INDICATES SEALANT ON THREADS
NOTE: The four smaller cylinder head mounting bolts require sealant to be added
to them before installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
4. Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with clean engine oil and install the eight M11 bolts.
5. Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive then install the bolts.
NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an angle torque procedure,
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however, the bolts are not a torque-to-yield design.
6. Tighten the bolts in sequence using the following steps and torque values:
Step 1: Tighten bolts 1-8, 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
Step 2: Verify that bolts 1-8, all reached 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.), by repeating step-1 without loosening
the bolts. Tighten bolts 9 through 12 to 14 N.m (10 ft. lbs.).
Step 3: Tighten bolts 1-8, 90 degrees. See Fig. 55.
Step 4: Tighten bolts 1-8, 90 degrees, again. Tighten bolts 9-12, 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.)
7. Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on either
side of the V6 mark on the gear then using Camshaft Holder 8428, position the gear onto the camshaft.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket retaining bolt before
reinstalling bolt. Failure to do so may cause over-torqueing of bolt
resulting in bolt failure.
8. Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.

9. Install the left side secondary chain guide.
10. Install the cylinder head access plug.
11. Re-set and Install the left side secondary chain tensioner.
12. Remove Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder 8429.
13. Install the timing chain cover.
14. Install the crankshaft damper. Tighten damper bolt 175 N.m (130 Ft. Lbs.)
15. Install the power steering pump.
16. Install the fan blade assembly and fan shroud.
17. Install the cylinder head cover.
18. Install the intake manifold.
19. Refill the cooling system
21. Install the exhaust pipe onto the left exhaust manifold.
23. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
CAMSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
CAMSHAFT - LEFT
The camshafts consist of powdered metal steel lobes which are sinter-bonded to a steel tube. Four bearing
journals are machined into the camshaft. Camshaft end play is controlled by two thrust walls that border the
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nose piece journal.
REMOVAL
CAMSHAFT - LEFT
CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and the cylinder heads are still
installed, DO NOT forcefully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft
independently of each other. Severe valve and/or piston damage can
occur.
CAUTION: When removing the cam sprocket, timing chains or camshaft, Failure to
use the Wedge Locking Tool 8379 will result in hydraulic tensioner ratchet
over extension, requiring timing chain cover removal to reset the tensioner
ratchet.
1. Remove cylinder head cover. See REMOVAL).
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Fig. 56: Identifying Special Tool 8379, Camshaft Sprocket, Camshaft Sprocket Bolt & Cylinder
Head

2 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
3 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET BOLT
4 - CYLINDER HEAD
2. Set engine to TDC cylinder #1, camshaft sprocket V6 marks at the 12 o'clock position.
3. Mark one link on the secondary timing chain on both sides of the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket to
aid in installation.
CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft target wheel (Located on the right
side camshaft sprocket) for any reason, Severe damage will occur to
the target wheel resulting in a vehicle no start condition.
4. Loosen but DO NOT remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. Leave the bolt snug against the
sprocket.
NOTE: The timing chain tensioners must be secured prior to removing the
camshaft sprockets. Failure to secure tensioners will allow the tensioners
to extend, requiring timing chain cover removal in order to reset
tensioners.
CAUTION: Do not force wedge past the narrowest point between the chain
strands. Damage to the tensioners may occur.
5. Position the Wedge Locking Tool 8379. See Fig. 56between the timing chain strands, tap the tool to
securely wedge the timing chain against the tensioner arm and guide.
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Fig. 57: Special Tool 8428 & Camshaft Hole

1 - Camshaft hole
2 - Special Tool 8428
6. Hold the camshaft with Camshaft Holder 8428. See Fig. 57 , while removing the camshaft sprocket bolt
and sprocket.
7. Using the Camshaft Holder 8428, gently allow the camshaft to rotate 5° clockwise until the camshaft is in
the neutral position (no valve load).
8. Starting at the outside working inward, loosen the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts 1/2 turn at a time.
Repeat until all load is off the bearing caps.
CAUTION: DO NOT STAMP OR STRIKE THE CAMSHAFT BEARING CAPS.

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SEVERE DAMAGE WILL OCCUR TO THE BEARING CAPS.
NOTE: When the camshaft is removed the rocker arms may slide downward, mark
the rocker arms before removing camshaft.
9. Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the camshaft.
INSTALLATION
CAMSHAFT - LEFT
Fig. 58: Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolt Tightening Sequence

1. Lubricate camshaft journals with clean engine oil.
NOTE: Position the left side camshaft so that the camshaft sprocket dowel is near
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the 1 o'clock position, This will place the camshaft at the neutral position
easing the installation of the camshaft bearing caps.
2. Position the camshaft into the cylinder head.

3. Install the camshaft bearing caps, hand tighten the retaining bolts.
NOTE: Caps should be installed so that the stamped numbers on the caps are in
numerical order, (1 through 4) from the front to the rear of the engine. All
caps should be installed so that the stamped arrows on the caps point
toward the front of the engine.
4. Working in 1/2 turn increments, tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts starting with the middle cap
working outward.
5. Tighten the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts to 11 N.m (100 in. lbs.). See Fig. 58.
6. Position the camshaft drive gear into the timing chain aligning the V6 mark between the two marked
chain links (Two links marked during removal).
7. Using the Camshaft Holder 8428, rotate the camshaft until the camshaft sprocket dowel is aligned with
the slot in the camshaft sprocket. Install the sprocket onto the camshaft.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can
cause bolt over-torque resulting in bolt failure.
8. Remove excess oil from bolt, then install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and hand tighten.
9. Remove Wedge Locking Tool 8379.
10. Using the Spanner Wrench 6958 with adapter pins 8346, tighten the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt to
122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
11. Install the cylinder head cover. See INSTALLATION).
COVER-CYLINDER HEAD
DESCRIPTION
CYLINDER HEAD COVER
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Fig. 59: Identifying Cylinder Head Covers

1 - LEFT SIDE CYLINDER HEAD COVER

2 - RIGHT SIDE CYLINDER HEAD COVER
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The cylinder head covers. See Fig. 59 (1,2) are made of glass re-enforced thermoset plastic, and are not
interchangeable from side-to-side.
REMOVAL
CYLINDER HEAD COVER
Fig. 60: Cylinder Head Cover

1 - SCREWS
2 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.

2. Remove the resonator assemble and air inlet hose.
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3. Disconnect injector connectors and un-clip the injector harness.

4. Route injector harness in front of cylinder head cover.
5. Disconnect the left side breather tube and remove the breather tube.
6. Remove the cylinder head cover mounting bolts (1).
7. Remove cylinder head cover (1) and gasket. See Fig. 60.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, providing no cuts, tears, or deformation has
occurred.
INSTALLATION
CYLINDER HEAD COVER
Fig. 61: Cylinder Head Cover

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1 - SCREWS
2 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the cylinder head covers. Severe
damage to covers may occur.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no cuts, tears, or deformation has
occurred.
1. Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
2. Install cylinder head cover. See Fig. 61 (2).
3. Tighten cylinder head cover bolts (1) and double ended studs to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
4. Install left side breather and connect breather tube.
5. Connect injector electrical connectors and injector harness retaining clips.
6. Install the resonator and air inlet hose.
7. Connect negative cable to battery.
VALVES & SEATS - INTAKE/EXHAUST
DESCRIPTION
VALVES
The valves are made of heat resistant steel and have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. Each valve is
actuated by a roller rocker arm which pivots on a stationary lash adjuster. All valves use three bead lock keepers
to retain the springs and promote valve rotation.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
REFACING
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Fig. 62: Valve Assembly Configuration

1 - VALVE LOCKS (3-BEAD)

2 - RETAINER
3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 - INTAKE VALVE
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5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
NOTE: Valve seats that are worn or burned can be reworked, provided that correct
angle and seat width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head must be
replaced.
NOTE: When refacing valves (4) and valve seats, it is important that the correct size
valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete surface
must be obtained.
1. Using a suitable dial indicator measure the center of the valve seat. Total run out must not exceed 0.051
mm (0.002 in).
2. Apply a small amount of Prussian blue to the valve seat, insert the valve into the cylinder head, while
applying light pressure on the valve rotate the valve. Remove the valve and examine the valve face. If the
blue is transferred below the top edge of the valve face, lower the valve seat using a 15 degree stone. If
the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of the valve face, raise the valve seat using a 65 degree stone.
3. When the seat is properly positioned the width of the intake seat must be 1.75 - 2.36 mm (0.0689 - 0.0928
in.) and the exhaust seat must be 1.71 - 2.32 mm (0.0673 - 0.0911 in.).
4. Check the valve spring (6) installed height after refacing the valve and seat. The installed height for both
intake and exhaust valve springs must not exceed 40.74 mm (1.6039 in.)
5. The valve seat and valve face must maintain a face angle of 44.5 - 45° angle.
REMOVAL
VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS
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Fig. 63: Removing/Installing Rocker Arm

1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR 10102
NOTE: The cylinder heads must be removed in order to perform this procedure.
1. Remove rocker arms and lash adjusters. See REMOVAL.

NOTE: All valve springs and valves are removed in the same manner; this
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procedure only covers one valve and valve spring.
3. Using Valve Spring Compressor C-3422-B or C-3422-C and Adapter 8519, compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the valve spring to loosen the spring
retainers locks enough to be removed.
4. Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: The valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring
compressor.
5. Remove the valve spring compressor.

6. Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
NOTE: Check for sharp edges on the keeper grooves. Remove any burrs from the
valve stem before removing the valve from the cylinder head.
7. Remove the valve from the cylinder head.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.
8. Remove the valve stem seal. Mark the valve for proper installation.
TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
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Fig. 64: Testing Valve Spring

1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-647
NOTE: Whenever the valves are removed from the cylinder head it is recommended
that the valve springs be inspected and tested for reuse.
Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear or damage. Turn table of tool C-647 (1) until surface is in
line with the 40.12 mm (1.579 in.) mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place spring over
the stud on the table and lift compressing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until a Ping is heard.
Take reading on torque wrench at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give the spring load at test
length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS
to obtain specified height and allowable tensions. Replace any springs that do not meet specifications.
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INSTALLATION


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2 - RETAINER
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
1. Coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and insert it into the cylinder head.
2. Install the valve stem seal. Make sure the seal is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top of the
seal is intact.
3. Install the spring and the spring retainer.
4. Using the valve spring compressor, compress the spring and install the two valve spring retainer halves.
5. Release the valve spring compressor and make sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring retainer
are fully seated. See Fig. 65.
Fig. 66: Camshaft Bearing Caps Tightening Sequence

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6. Lubricate the camshaft journal with clean engine oil then Position the camshaft (with the sprocket dowel
on the left camshaft at 11 o'clock and the right camshaft at 12 o'clock), then position the camshaft bearing
caps.
7. Install the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts 9-13 N.m (100 in. lbs.) in 1/2 turn
increments in the sequence shown. See Fig. 66.
8. Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and rocker arms. See INSTALLATION.
ARM-VALVE ROCKER
DESCRIPTION
VALVE ROCKER ARM
The rocker arms are steel stampings with an integral roller bearing. The rocker arms incorporate a 2.8 mm (0.5
inch) oil jet hole in the lash adjuster socket for roller and camshaft lubrication.
REMOVAL
VALVE ROCKER ARM
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Fig. 67: Removing/Installing Camshaft & Special Tool 8516

1 - CAMSHAFT
NOTE: Disconnect the battery negative cable to prevent accidental starter engagement.
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. See REMOVAL).

2. For rocker arm removal on cylinder No. 4, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC intake
stroke.
3. For rocker arm removal on cylinder No. 1, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC
combustion stroke.
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4. For rocker arm removal on cylinders No. 3 and No. 5, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at
TDC exhaust stroke.
TDC ignition stroke.
6. Using the Rocker Arm Remover/Installer 8516A. See Fig. 67 (2) , press downward on the valve spring,
remove rocker arm.
SEALS-VALVE GUIDE
DESCRIPTION
VALVE GUIDE SEAL
The valve guide seals are made of rubber and incorporate an integral steel valve spring seat. The integral garter
spring maintains consistent lubrication control to the valve stems.
SPRINGS-VALVE
DESCRIPTION
VALVE SPRINGS
The valve springs are made from high strength chrome silicon steel. The springs are NOT common for intake
and exhaust applications. The exhaust spring has an external damper. The valve spring seat is integral with the
valve stem seal, which is a positive type seal to control lubrication.
REMOVAL
VALVE SPRINGS

2. Using the Valve Spring Remover/Installer 8516A, remove the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters.
3. Remove the spark plug for the cylinder the valve spring and seal are to be removed from.
4. Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place when the spring is removed.
NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed in the same manner; this
procedure only covers one valve seal and valve spring.
5. Using the Valve Spring Compressor 8387, compress the valve spring.
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compressor.
NOTE: The valve springs are NOT common between intake and exhaust.

9. Remove the valve stem seal.
INSTALLATION
VALVE SPRINGS
NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed in the same manner; this procedure
only covers one valve seal and valve spring.
1. Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place while the spring is installed.
2. Install the valve stem seal.
3. Install the spring retainer, and the spring.

5. Install the two spring retainer lock halves.
compressor.

7. Disconnect the shop air to the cylinder.
8. Install the spark plug for the cylinder the valve spring and seal was installed on.
9. Using Valve Spring Remover/Installer 8516, install the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash adjusters.
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT
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DESCRIPTION
VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are made of powered metal and are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are not
replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide reaming is not recommended. If the guides are worn beyond
acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.
VALVES
CYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder heads are made of an aluminum alloy. The cylinder head features two valves per cylinder with
pressed in powdered metal valve guides. The cylinder heads also provide enclosures for the timing chain drain,
necessitating unique left and right cylinder heads.
HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several items. Check the following items.
1. Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to
be spongy.
2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be required.
3. Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has
reached normal operating temperature.
4. Low oil pressure.
5. The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.
6. Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked oil pump pick up.
7. Worn valve guides.
8. Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer.
9. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
10. Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylinder head.
11. Faulty lash adjuster.
Check lash adjusters for sponginess while installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at base
circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
Before installation, make sure adjusters are at least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
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or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
water jacket.

 Loss of coolant
 Coolant foaming
leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50 - 70% reduction in compression pressure.

VISUAL TEST METHOD
opens.

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REMOVAL

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1. Disconnect battery negative cable.

2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side exhaust manifold.
4. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
6. Remove the intake manifold. See REMOVAL.
7. Remove the cylinder head cover. See REMOVAL.
8. Remove the fan shroud. Refer to REMOVAL .
9. Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
10. Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to REMOVAL .
11. Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark. See Fig. 68(2).
Fig. 69: Camshaft Sprocket V6 Marks

12. Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position. See Fig. 69. Rotate the
crankshaft one turn if necessary.
13. Remove the crankshaft damper. See REMOVAL.
14. Remove the timing chain cover. See REMOVAL)
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2 - CAMSHAFT CHAIN
15. Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler sprocket using the Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder 8429.
See Fig. 70(1).
NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to removal to aid in installation.
16. Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on each side of the V6 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
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17. Remove the right side secondary chain tensioner. See REMOVAL.
Fig. 71: Locating Cylinder Head Access Plugs


18. Remove the cylinder head access plug. See Fig. 71 (1,2).
19. Remove the right side secondary chain guide. See REMOVAL.
CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft sprocket should not be removed
for any reason, as the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is
serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed, tighten nut to 5 N.m
(44 in. lbs.).
20. Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft drive gear.
CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. Severe damage to the valve train
can occur.
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CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at the front of the cylinder
head. Do not attempt to remove the cylinder head without removing
these four bolts.
CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft target wheel for any reason. A
damaged target wheel can result in a vehicle no start condition.

NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder block with twelve bolts.
21. Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts. See Fig. 72.
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22. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the gasket.
CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gasket sealing surface, do to the design
of the cylinder head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head sealing
surface may prevent the gasket from properly sealing resulting in leaks.
CLEANING
CYLINDER HEADS

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aluminum engine components. See Fig. 73. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
INSPECTION
CYLINDER HEADS
1. Inspect the cylinder head for out-of-flatness, using a straightedge and a feeler gauge. If measurements
exceed 0.0508 mm (0.002 in.) replace the cylinder head.
2. Inspect the valve seats for damage. Service the valve seats as necessary.
3. Inspect the valve guides for wear, cracks or looseness. If either condition exist, replace the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 74: Stretched Bolt, Threads Are Not Straight On Line, Threads Are Straight On Line & Unstreched
Bolt
NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The
bolts must be examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down (2) the
bolts should be replaced.
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Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale,
the bolt should be replaced. See Fig. 74.

metal scraper because the surfaces could be cut or ground. Use only a
wooden or plastic scraper (1).
1. Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces. See Fig. 75.
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2. Position the new cylinder head gasket on the locating dowels.
CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care not damage the tensioner
arm or the guide arm.
3. Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over the
locating dowels.
NOTE: The four M8 cylinder head mounting bolts (1) require sealant to be added
to them before installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
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4. Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with clean engine oil and install the eight M10 bolts.
5. Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with Mopar Lock and Seal Adhesive then install the bolts.
NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an angle torque procedure,
however, the bolts are not a torque-to-yield design.
6. Tighten the bolts in sequence using the following steps and torque values. See Fig. 76 :
Step 1: Tighten bolts 1-8, 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
Step 2: Verify that bolts 1-8, all reached 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.), by repeating step 1 without loosening
the bolts. Tighten bolts 9 thru 12 to 14 N.m (10 ft. lbs.).
Step 3: Tighten bolts 1-8, 90°.
Step 4: Tighten bolts 1-8, 90°, again. Tighten bolts 9-12, 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.)
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2 - CAMSHAFT CHAIN
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7. Position the secondary chain (2) onto the camshaft drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on
either side of the V6 mark. See Fig. 77 and Fig. 78 (1) on the gear then using the Camshaft Holder 8428,
position the gear onto the camshaft.
reinstalling bolt. Failure to do so may cause over-torquing of bolt
8. Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.

9. Install the right side secondary chain guide. See INSTALLATION.
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10. Install the cylinder head access plug (1,2). See Fig. 79.
11. Re-set and install the right side secondary chain tensioner. See INSTALLATION.
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2 - CAMSHAFT CHAIN
12. Remove the Camshaft Holder 8429. See Fig. 80(1).

13. Install the timing chain cover. See REMOVAL).
14. Install the crankshaft damper. See INSTALLATION. Tighten damper bolt 175 N.m (130 Ft. Lbs.).
15. Install accessory drive belt. Refer to INSTALLATION .
16. Install the fan shroud. Refer to INSTALLATION .
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18. Install the intake manifold. See INSTALLATION.
19. Install oil fill housing onto cylinder head.
20. Refill the cooling system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
22. Install the exhaust pipe onto the right exhaust manifold.
24. Reconnect battery negative cable.
CAMSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
CAMSHAFT - RIGHT
The camshafts consist of powdered metal steel lobes which are sinter-bonded to a steel tube. Four bearing
journals are machined into the camshaft. Camshaft end play is controlled by two thrust walls that border the
nose piece journal.
REMOVAL
CAMSHAFT - RIGHT

CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and the cylinder heads are still
installed, DO NOT forcefully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft
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independently of each other. Severe valve and/or piston damage can

occur.
CAUTION: When removing the cam sprocket, timing chains or camshaft, Failure to
use Wedge Locking Tool 8379 will result in hydraulic tensioner ratchet
over extension, Requiring timing chain cover removal to re-set the
tensioner ratchet.

2. Set engine to TDC cylinder No. 1, camshaft sprocket V6 marks at the 12 o'clock position. See Fig. 81 (1).
3. Mark one link on the secondary timing chain on both sides of the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket to
aid in installation.

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1 - Camshaft hole
CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft target wheel for any reason,
Severe damage will occur to the target wheel. A damaged target
wheel could cause a vehicle no start condition.
4. Loosen but DO NOT remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. See Fig. 83. Leave bolt snug against
sprocket.
Head

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4 - CYLINDER HEAD
NOTE: The timing chain tensioners must be secured prior to removing the
camshaft sprockets. Failure to secure tensioners will allow the tensioners
to extend, requiring timing chain cover removal in order to reset
tensioners.
CAUTION: Do not force wedge past the narrowest point between the chain
strands. Damage to the tensioners may occur.
5. Position the Wedge Locking Tool 8379. See Fig. 83 (1) between the timing chain strands. Tap the tool to
securely wedge the timing chain against the tensioner arm and guide.
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1 - Camshaft hole
6. Remove the camshaft position sensor.

7. Hold the camshaft with Camshaft Holder 8428. See Fig. 84 (2), while removing the camshaft sprocket
bolt and sprocket.
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8. Starting at the outside working inward, loosen the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts. See Fig. 85 1/2
turn at a time. Repeat until all load is off the bearing caps.
CAUTION: DO NOT STAMP OR STRIKE THE CAMSHAFT BEARING CAPS.

SEVERE DAMAGE WILL OCCUR TO THE BEARING CAPS.
NOTE: When the camshaft is removed the rocker arms may slide downward, mark
the rocker arms before removing camshaft.
INSTALLATION
CAMSHAFT - RIGHT
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1. Lubricate camshaft journals with clean engine oil.
NOTE: Position the right side camshaft so that the camshaft sprocket dowel is
near the 10 o'clock position, This will place the camshaft at the neutral
position easing the installation of the camshaft bearing caps.
2. Position the camshaft into the cylinder head.

3. Install the camshaft bearing caps, hand tighten the retaining bolts.
NOTE: Caps should be installed so that the stamped numbers on the caps are in
numerical order, (1 through 4) from the front to the rear of the engine. All
caps should be installed so that the stamped arrows on the caps point
toward the front of the engine.
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4. Working in 1/2 turn increments, tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts starting with the middle cap
working outward.
5. Tighten the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts to 11 N.m (100 in. lbs.). See Fig. 86.

6. Position the camshaft drive gear into the timing chain aligning the V6 mark between the two marked
chain links (Two links marked during removal). See Fig. 87.
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1 - Camshaft hole
7. Using the Camshaft Holder 8428 (2), rotate the camshaft until the camshaft sprocket dowel is aligned
with the slot in the camshaft sprocket . Install the sprocket onto the camshaft. See Fig. 88.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can
cause bolt over-torque resulting in bolt failure.
8. Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket bolt, then install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and hand
tighten.
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Head

4 - CYLINDER HEAD
9. Remove timing chain wedge special tool 8379 (1). See Fig. 89.
10. Using Spanner Wrench 6958 with adapter pins 8346, tighten the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt to 122
N.m (90 ft. lbs.)
11. Install the camshaft position sensor.
COVER-CYLINDER HEAD
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REMOVAL
CYLINDER HEAD COVER

2. Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Drain cooling system, below the level of the heater hoses. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
5. Remove air conditioning compressor retaining bolts and move compressor to the left.
6. Remove heater hoses.
7. Disconnect injector and ignition coil connectors.
8. Disconnect and remove positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
9. Remove oil fill tube.
10. Un-clip injector and ignition coil harness and move away from cylinder head cover.
11. Remove right rear breather tube and filter assembly.
12. Remove cylinder head cover retaining bolts.
13. Remove cylinder head cover.
INSTALLATION
CYLINDER HEAD COVER
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the cylinder head covers. Severe
damage to covers may occur.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no cuts, tears, or deformation has
occurred.
1. Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
2. Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double ended studs to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs).
3. Install right rear breather tube and filter assembly.
4. Connect injector, ignition coil electrical connectors and harness retaining clips.
5. Install the oil fill tube.
6. Install PCV hose.
7. Install heater hoses.
8. Install air conditioning compressor retaining bolts.
10. Fill Cooling system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
11. Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
12. Connect battery negative cable.
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VALVES AND SEATS - INTAKE/EXHAUST
DESCRIPTION
VALVES
STANDARD PROCEDURE
REFACING
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2 - RETAINER
4 - INTAKE VALVE
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5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
NOTE: Valve seats that are worn or burned can be reworked, provided that correct
angle and seat width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head must be
replaced.
NOTE: When refacing valves (4) and valve seats, it is important that the correct size
valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete surface
must be obtained.
1. Using a suitable dial indicator measure the center of the valve seat. Total run out must not exceed 0.051
mm (0.002 in).
2. Apply a small amount of Prussian blue to the valve seat, insert the valve into the cylinder head, while
applying light pressure on the valve rotate the valve. Remove the valve and examine the valve face. If the
blue is transferred below the top edge of the valve face, lower the valve seat using a 15 degree stone. If
the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of the valve face, raise the valve seat using a 65 degree stone.
3. When the seat is properly positioned the width of the intake seat must be 1.75 - 2.36 mm (0.0689 - 0.0928
in.) and the exhaust seat must be 1.71 - 2.32 mm (0.0673 - 0.0911 in.).
4. Check the valve spring (6) installed height after refacing the valve and seat. The installed height for both
intake and exhaust valve springs must not exceed 40.74 mm (1.6039 in.)
5. The valve seat and valve face must maintain a face angle of 44.5 - 45° angle.
REMOVAL
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Fig. 91: Removing/Installing Rocker Arm

1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR 10102
NOTE: The cylinder heads must be removed in order to perform this procedure.
1. Remove rocker arms and lash adjusters. See REMOVAL.

NOTE: All valve springs and valves are removed in the same manner; this
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procedure only covers one valve and valve spring.
3. Using Valve Spring Compressor C-3422-B or C-3422-C and Adapter 8519, compress the valve spring.
compressor.

NOTE: Check for sharp edges on the keeper grooves. Remove any burrs from the
valve stem before removing the valve from the cylinder head.
7. Remove the valve from the cylinder head.
8. Remove the valve stem seal. Mark the valve for proper installation.
TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
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NOTE: Whenever the valves are removed from the cylinder head it is recommended
that the valve springs be inspected and tested for reuse.
Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear or damage. Turn table of tool C-647 (1) until surface is in
line with the 40.12 mm (1.579 in.) mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place spring over
the stud on the table and lift compressing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until a Ping is heard.
Take reading on torque wrench at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give the spring load at test
length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS
to obtain specified height and allowable tensions. Replace any springs that do not meet specifications.
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INSTALLATION


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2 - RETAINER
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
1. Coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and insert it into the cylinder head.
2. Install the valve stem seal. Make sure the seal is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top of the
seal is intact.
3. Install the spring and the spring retainer.
4. Using the valve spring compressor, compress the spring and install the two valve spring retainer halves.
5. Release the valve spring compressor and make sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring retainer
are fully seated. See Fig. 65.
Fig. 94: Camshaft Bearing Caps Tightening Sequence

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6. Lubricate the camshaft journal with clean engine oil then Position the camshaft (with the sprocket dowel
on the left camshaft at 11 o'clock and the right camshaft at 12 o'clock), then position the camshaft bearing
caps.
7. Install the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts 9-13 N.m (100 in. lbs.) in 1/2 turn
increments in the sequence shown. See Fig. 66.
8. Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and rocker arms. See INSTALLATION.
ROCKER ARM - VALVE
DESCRIPTION
VALVE ROCKER ARM
The rocker arms are steel stampings with an integral roller bearing. The rocker arms incorporate a 0.5 mm oil
jet hole in the lash adjuster socket for roller and camshaft lubrication.
REMOVAL
VALVE ROCKER ARM
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1 - CAMSHAFT
NOTE: Disconnect the battery negative cable to prevent accidental starter engagement.

2. For rocker arm removal on cylinder No. 4, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC intake
stroke.
3. For rocker arm removal on cylinder No. 1, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC
combustion stroke.
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TDC exhaust stroke.
6. Using the Rocker Arm Remover/Installer 8516A. See Fig. 67 (2) , press downward on the valve spring,
remove rocker arm.
INSTALLATION
VALVE ROCKER ARM

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1 - CAMSHAFT
CAUTION: Make sure the rocker arms are installed with the concave pocket over the
lash adjusters. Failure to do so may cause severe damage to the rocker
arms and/or lash adjusters.
NOTE: Coat the rocker arms with clean engine oil prior to installation.
1. For rocker arm installation on cylinders No. 4, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC intake
stroke.
2. For rocker arm installation on cylinder No. 1, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC
combustion stroke.
3. For rocker arm installation on cylinders No. 3 and No. 5, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at
TDC exhaust stroke.
4. For rocker arm installation on cylinders No. 2 and No. 6, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at
5. Using the Rocker Arm Remover/Installer 8516A (2) press downward on the valve spring, install rocker
arm. See Fig. 96.
SEALS-VALVE GUIDE
DESCRIPTION
VALVE GUIDE SEALS
The valve guide seals are made of rubber and incorporate an integral steel valve spring seat. The integral garter
spring maintains consistent lubrication control to the valve stems.
SPRINGS-VALVE
DESCRIPTION
VALVE SPRINGS
The valve springs are made from high strength chrome silicon steel. There are different springs for intake and
exhaust applications. The exhaust spring has an external damper. The valve spring seat is integral with the valve
stem seal, which is a positive type seal to control lubrication.
REMOVAL
VALVE SPRINGS
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2. Using the Valve Spring Remover/Installer 8516A, remove the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters.
3. Remove the spark plug for the cylinder the valve spring and seal are to be removed from.
4. Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place when the spring is removed.
NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed in the same manner; this
procedure only covers one valve seal and valve spring.
compressor.

9. Remove the valve stem seal.
INSTALLATION
VALVE SPRINGS
NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed in the same manner; this procedure
only covers one valve seal and valve spring.
1. Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place while the spring is installed.
2. Install the valve stem seal.
3. Install the spring retainer, and the spring.

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4. Using Valve Spring Compressor 8387, compress the valve spring.

5. Install the two spring retainer lock halves.
compressor.

7. Disconnect the shop air to the cylinder.
8. Install the spark plug for the cylinder the valve spring and seal was installed on.
9. Using the Valve Spring Remover/Installer Special Tool 8516A, install the rocker arms and the hydraulic
lash adjusters.
ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
ENGINE BLOCK
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to the block. The
block design allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet
inlet thermostat is included in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CYLINDER BORE HONING
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Fig. 97: Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern

1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for
this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuffing,
scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove cylinder wall glaze.
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2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60 strokes,
depending on the bore condition, will be sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing oil C-
3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern (1). The
hone marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (2).
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch
angle. The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60°
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to
wash parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-free
cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
CYLINDER BLOCK
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.

The front and rear oil galley holes.
The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of
the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the plugs to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.)
INSPECTION
ENGINE BLOCK
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Fig. 98: Measuring Cylinder Bore With Gauge - Typical

1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
1. It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly select the
proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is
required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpendicular
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(across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
3. Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat the
measurement near the middle of the bore, then repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
4. Determine taper by subtracting the smaller diameter from the larger diameter.
5. Rotate measuring device 90° and repeat steps above.
6. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the difference between each measurement.
7. If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.015
mm (0.0006 inch), the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round condition
exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper always
exists in the cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a period of time.
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
CRANKSHAFT
The crankshaft is constructed of nodular cast iron. The crankshaft is a three throw split pin design with six
counterweights for balancing purposes. The crankshaft is supported by four select fit main bearings with the
number two serving as the thrust washer location. The main journals of the crankshaft are cross drilled to
improve rod bearing lubrication. The number six counterweight has provisions for crankshaft position sensor
target wheel mounting. The select fit main bearing markings are located on the rear side of the target wheel. The
crankshaft oil seals are one piece design. The front oil seal is retained in the timing chain cover, and the rear
seal is pressed in to a bore formed by the cylinder block and the bedplate assembly. See Fig. 99.
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Fig. 99: Crankshaft & Crankshaft Position Sensor Target Ring

1 - CRANKSHAFT
2 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR TARGET RING
REMOVAL
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CRANKSHAFT
Fig. 100: Bedplate Pry Point Location

NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine, the engine must be removed from
the vehicle.
1. Remove the engine. See REMOVAL.

2. Remove the engine oil pump. See REMOVAL.
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when removing the oil pan, The oil
pan gasket is mounted to the cylinder block in three locations and
will remain attached to block when removing oil pan. Gasket can not
be removed with oil pan.
3. Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the location of the two stud bolts for installation.
4. Remove the connecting rods from the crankshaft.
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating surface is a critical sealing

surface. Do not pry on or damage this surface in anyway.
NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bearing halves. Use care when
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handling bedplate as not to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing

main bearing halves in the wrong position will cause severe damage to the
crankshaft.
NOTE: The bedplate has pry points cast into it. Use these points only. The pry
points are shown below.
5. Carefully pry on the pry points to loosen the bedplate then remove the bedplate. See Fig. 100.
CAUTION: When removing the crankshaft, use care not to damage bearing
surfaces on the crankshaft.
6. Remove the crankshaft.

7. Remove the crankshaft tone wheel.
INSPECTION
CRANKSHAFT
NOTE: Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bearing bores and main bearing bores
for scoring, blueing or severe scratches. Further disassembly may be required.
If connecting rod bearing bores show damage, the cylinder heads must be removed to service the piston and rod
assemblies. If the bedplate or the cylinder block main bearing bores show damage the engine must be replaced.
1. If required, remove the main bearing halves from the cylinder block and bedplate.
2. Thoroughly clean the bedplate to cylinder block sealing surfaces and main bearing bores. Remove all oil
and sealant residue.
3. Inspect the bedplate main bearing bores for cracks, scoring or severe blueing. If either condition exists the
engine must be replaced.
4. Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scoring, scratches, wear or blueing. If either condition exist
replace the thrust washers.
5. Inspect the oil pan gasket/windage tray for splits, tears or cracks in the gasket sealing surfaces. Replace
gasket as necessary.
INSTALLATION
CRANKSHAFT
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Fig. 101: Installing Thrust Washers

1 - CRANKSHAFT THRUST WASHER
CAUTION: Main bearings are select fit. Refer to Crankshaft Main Bearings in this
article for proper bearing selections.
CAUTION: When installing crankshaft, use care not to damage bearing surfaces on
the crankshaft.
NOTE: Apply sealant to the tone wheel retaining screws prior to installation.
1. Lubricate upper main bearing halves with clean engine oil.

2. Install the crankshaft tone wheel. Tighten the mounting screws to 15 N.m (11 ft. lbs.)
3. Position crankshaft in cylinder block.
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4. Install the thrust washers (1).
Fig. 102: Bedplate Sealant Locations

1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - SEALANT
3 - SEALANT
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating surface must be coated with
Mopar® Engine RTV sealant prior to installation. Failure to do so will
cause severe oil leaks.
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NOTE: Make sure that the bedplate and cylinder block sealing surfaces are clean
and free of oil or other contaminants. Contaminants on the sealing
surfaces may cause main bearing distortion and/or oil leaks.
5. Apply a 2.5mm (0.100 inch) bead of Mopar® Engine RTV sealant to the cylinder block-to-bedplate
mating surface (2,3) as shown.
Fig. 103: Bedplate Tightening Sequence

6. Coat the crankshaft main bearing journals with clean engine oil and position the bedplate onto the
cylinder block.
NOTE: Lubricate the bedplate retaining bolts with clean engine oil prior to
installation.
7. Install the bedplate retaining bolts, making sure to place the stud bolts in the correct location, Tighten the
bolts in the sequence shown.
Hand tighten bolts 1D,1G and 1F until the bedplate contacts the block.
Tighten bolts 1A - 1J to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.)
Tighten bolts 1 - 8 to 7 N.m (5 ft. lbs.)
Turn bolts 1 - 8 an additional 90°.
Tighten bolts A - E 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
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8. Measure crankshaft end play.

9. Install the connecting rods and measure side clearance. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
10. Install oil pump. See INSTALLATION.
11. Install the engine. See INSTALLATION.
BEARINGS-CRANKSHAFT MAIN
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS
SELECT FIT IDENTIFICATION
Fig. 104: Rearmost Crankshaft Counter Weight, Target Wheel & Main Bearing Select Fit Markings
1 - REARMOST CRANKSHAFT COUNTER WEIGHT
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2 - TARGET WHEEL
3 - MAIN BEARING SELECT FIT MARKINGS
The main bearings are "select fit" to achieve proper oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crankshaft
position sensor target wheel (2) has grade identification marks stamped into it. These marks are read from left to
right, corresponding with journal number 1, 2, 3, 4. The crankshaft position sensor target wheel is mounted to
the number 6 counter weight (1) on the crankshaft. See Fig. 104.
INSPECTION
Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material imbedded
in the lining. Normal main bearing insert wear patterns are illustrated.
Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapings or irregular wear patterns.
Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.
Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)
Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block. See REMOVAL.
Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.
Determine the maximum diameter of the journal with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90° apart at each
end of the journal.
The maximum allowable taper is 0.008mm (0.0004 inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005mm (0.002 inch).
Compare the measured diameter with the journal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting Chart). Select
inserts required to obtain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.
Install the crankshaft into the cylinder block. See INSPECTION.
Check crankshaft end play.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SELECTION
Crankshaft Marking JOURNAL SIZE

SIZE mm (in.)
"R" Size 63.488 - 63.496 mm
(2.4995 - 2.4998 in.)
"S" Size 63.496 - 63.500 mm (2.4998 - 2.4999 in.)
"T" Size 63.500 - 63.504 mm (2.4999 - 2.501 in.)
"U" Size 63.504 - 63.512 mm (2.5001 - 2.5004 in.)
Bearing size
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Bearing Code Size Application

Upper Bearing
A .2.443 - 2.447 mm Use with crankshaft size "R"
(.0961 -.0963 in.) -
B 2.439 - 2.443 mm Use with crankshaft "S, T"
(0.960 -.0961 in.) -
C 2.435 - 2.439 mm Use with crankshaft "U"
(.0958 -.0960 in.) -
Lower Bearing Main "1" and "4"
"1" 2.441 - 2.447 mm Use with crankshaft "R, S"
- (.0961 -.0963 in.)
"2" 2.435 - 2.441 mm Use with crankshaft "T, U"
- (.0958 -.0962 in.)
Lower Main Bearing "2" and "3"
"3" 2.429 - 2.435 mm Use with crankshaft "R, S"
- (.0956 -.0958 in.)
"4" 2.423 - 2.429 mm Use with crankshaft "T, U"
- (.0953 -.0956 in.)
Bearing Clearances
Main "1, 4"
Crankshaft "R" .004 -.034 mm (.00015 -.0013 in.)
Crankshaft "S" .004 -.030 mm (.00015 -.0011 in.)
Crankshaft "T" .006 -.032 mm (.0002 -.0012 in.)
Crankshaft "U" .002 -.032 mm (.00007 -. 0012 in.)
Main "2, 3"
Crankshaft "R" .016 -.046 mm (.0006 -.0018 in.)
Crankshaft "S" .016 -.042 mm (.00062 -.016 in.)
Crankshaft "T" .018 -.044 mm (.0007 -.0017 in.)
Crankshaft "U" .014 -.044 mm (.0005 -.0017 in.)
1. Service main bearings are available in four grades. The chart identifies the four service grades available.
SEAL-CRANKSHAFT OIL-FRONT
REMOVAL
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT
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Fig. 105: Crankshaft Damper Removal

1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8513 I INSERT


3. Remove A/C compressor mounting fasteners and set aside.
4. Drain cooling system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
5. Remove upper radiator hose.
6. Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted inside radiator shroud.
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7. Remove radiator shroud attaching fasteners.

8. Remove radiator cooling fan and shroud. Refer to REMOVAL .
9. Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
10. Remove damper using the Crankshaft Insert 8513A (1) and the Three Jaw Puller 1026 (2). See Fig. 105.
Fig. 106: Crankshaft Front Seal Removal

1-
SPECIAL
TOOL
8511
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11. Using Seal Remover 8511, remove crankshaft front seal (1). See Fig. 106.
INSTALLATION
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT
Fig. 107: Crankshaft Front Seal Installation


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CAUTION: To prevent severe damage to the Crankshaft, Damper or Special Tool 8512,
thoroughly clean the damper bore and the crankshaft nose before
installing Damper.
1. Using the Seal Installer 8348 (2) and Damper Installer 8512 (3), install crankshaft front seal. See Fig.
107.
2. Install vibration damper. See INSTALLATION.
3. Install radiator cooling fan and shroud. Refer to INSTALLATION .
4. Install upper radiator hose.
5. Install A/C compressor and tighten fasteners to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
6. Install accessory drive belt refer. Refer to INSTALLATION .
7. Refill cooling system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
SEAL-CRANKSHAFT OIL-REAR
REAR CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.

3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a
black light to check for the oil leak:
 Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
 Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs,
oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See Engine, for proper
repair procedures of these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as described in AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST
METHOD.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected
between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal
surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be
polished out with emery cloth.
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CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to

remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is
specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.
See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGENGINE LUBRICATION DIAGNOSTIC TABLE, under the Oil
Leak row, for components inspections on possible causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified. See REMOVAL.
REMOVAL
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
Fig. 108: Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Removal

NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
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1. If being performed in vehicle, remove the transmission.

2. Remove the flexplate. See REMOVAL.
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover 8506 must be installed deeply into the
seal. Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal until the tool can
not be turned farther. Failure to install tool correctly the first time will
cause tool to pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
3. Using Seal Remover 8506 (2), remove the crankshaft rear oil seal (1).
INSTALLATION
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
Fig. 109: Positioning Seal Guide Special Tool 8349-2 Onto Crankshaft Rear Face
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1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL

2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349-2 GUIDE
1. Lubricate the crankshaft flange with engine oil.

2. Position the magnetic seal guide 8349-2 onto the crankshaft rear face. Then position the crankshaft rear
oil seal (1) onto the guide (2).
Fig. 110: Using Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer 8349 And Driver Handle C-4171, With A
Hammer, Tap The Seal Into Place
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL

2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349-1 INSTALLER
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4171 HANDLE
3. Using Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer 8349 (2) and Driver Handle C-4171 (3), with a hammer, tap the
seal (1) into place. Continue to tap on the driver handle until the seal installer seats against the cylinder
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block crankshaft bore.

4. Install the flexplate.
5. Install the transmission.
PLATE-FLEX
REMOVAL
FLEXPLATE
1. Remove the transmission.

2. Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
FLEXPLATE
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Fig. 111: Flexplate Loosening/Tightening Sequence

1 - FLEXPLATE
1. Position the flexplate (1) onto the crankshaft and install the bolts hand tight.
2. Tighten the flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown. See Fig. 111.
ROD-PISTON AND CONNECTING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
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Fig. 112: Piston & Rod Assembly

1 - CONNECTING ROD
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON PIN
4 - OIL SLINGER SLOT
CAUTION: Do not use a metal stamp to mark connecting rods as damage may result,
instead use ink or a scratch awl.
The pistons. See Fig. 112 (2) are made of a high strength aluminum alloy. The connecting rods (1) are made of
forged powdered metal, with a "fractured cap" design. A full floating piston pin is used to attach the piston to
the connecting rod.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CONNECTING ROD BEARING FITTING
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Fig. 113: Scoring Caused By Insufficient Lubrication or Damaged Crankshaft Journal

Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring. Check the bearings for normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving,
fatigue and pitting. See Fig. 113. Replace any bearing that shows abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of scoring, nicks and burrs.
Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder walls,
connecting rod bearings and crankshaft connecting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to any of these
components indicate the probability of a misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod alignment.
Replace misaligned, bent or twisted connecting rods.
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Fig. 114: Bearing Insert Location

1 - Connecting Rod
2 - Bearing Insert
- A, B less then .50 mm (.0196 in.)
1. Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.

2. Lubricate the upper bearing insert and position in connecting rod. Center bearing insert (2) in
connecting rod (1). See Fig. 114
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Fig. 115: Piston & Connecting Rod Installation

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1 - "F" TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE

3 - RING COMPRESSOR
3. Use piston ring compressor. See Fig. 115 (3) and Connecting Rod Guides 8507 to install the rod and
piston assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must face front of the engine. The "F"'s near the piston
wrist pin bore (1) should point to the front of the engine.
Fig. 116: Measuring Bearing Clearance With Plastigage

1 - PLASTIGAGE SCALE
2 - COMPRESSED PLASTIGAGE
4. Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing cap. Center bearing insert in connecting rod. . The lower
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insert must be dry. Place strip of Plastigage across full width of the lower insert at the center of bearing
cap. See Fig. 116. Plastigage must not crumble in use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
5. Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the journal and tighten bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90°
turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
6. Remove the bearing cap and determine amount of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the width of
compressed Plastigage (2). Refer to Engine Specifications for the proper clearance. Plastigage should
indicate the same clearance across the entire width of the insert. If the clearance varies, it may be
caused by either a tapered journal, bent connecting rod or foreign material trapped between the
insert and cap or rod.
7. If the correct clearance is indicated, replacement of the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove the
Plastigage from crankshaft journal and bearing insert. Proceed with installation.
Bearing Mark SIZE USED WITH JOURNAL

SIZE
.025 US .025 mm 57.883 - 57.867 mm
(.001 in.) (2.2788 - 2.2783 in.)
Std. STANDARD 57.908 - 57.892 mm
(2.2798 - 2.2792 in.)
.250 US .250 mm 57.658 - 57.646 mm
- (.010 in.) (2.2700 - 2.2695 in.)
8. If bearing-to-journal clearance exceeds the specification, determine which services bearing set to use the
bearing sizes are as follows:
CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to Yield Bolts and Must Not Be
Reused. Always replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened or
removed.
9. Repeat the Plastigage measurement to verify your bearing selection prior to final assembly.
10. Once you have selected the proper insert, install the insert and cap. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 27
N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn.
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Fig. 117: Checking Connecting Rod Side Clearance

Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the connecting rod and crankshaft journal flange. See Fig. 117. Refer to
Engine Specifications for the proper clearance. Replace the connecting rod if the side clearance is not within
specification.
PISTON FITTING
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Fig. 118: Measuring Cylinder Diameter With Bore Gauge - Typical

1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM
(1.5 in)
1. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge (2), capable of reading in 0.003 mm
(.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
See Fig. 118.
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2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore (3) at a point 38.0 mm (1.5 inches) below top of bore.
Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crankshaft at point A and then take an
additional bore reading 90 degrees to that at point B.
Fig. 119: Moly Coated Piston

1 - MOLY COATED
2 - MOLY COATED
3. The coated pistons (1,2) will be serviced with the piston pin and connecting rod pre-assembled. See Fig.
119.
4. The coating material is applied to the piston after the final piston machining process. Measuring the
outside diameter of a coated piston (1,2) will not provide accurate results. Therefore measuring the inside
diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial Bore Gauge is MANDATORY . To correctly select the proper
size piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) increments is required.
5. Piston installation into the cylinder bore requires slightly more pressure than that required for non-coated
pistons. The bonded coating on the piston will give the appearance of a line-to-line fit with the cylinder
bore.
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REMOVAL
REMOVAL PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

2. Remove the following components:
Oil pan and gasket/windage tray. See REMOVAL.
Cylinder head covers. See REMOVAL)
Timing chain cover. See REMOVAL).
Cylinder head(s). See REMOVAL.
3. If necessary, remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons
from cylinder block. Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered during this operation. Pistons and
connecting rods must be removed from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and connecting rod
assemblies from the engine, rotate crankshaft so the each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch to mark connecting rods or

caps, as damage to connecting rods could occur
NOTE: Connecting rods and bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be
marked before removing to ensure correct reassembly.
4. Mark connecting rod and bearing cap positions using a permanent ink marker or scribe tool.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage the fractured rod and cap joint
face surfaces, as engine damage may occur.
5. Remove connecting rod cap. Install the Connecting Rod Guides 8507 into the connecting rod being
removed. Remove piston from cylinder bore. Repeat this procedure for each piston being removed.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to nick crankshaft journals, as engine

damage may occur
6. Immediately after piston and connecting rod removal, install bearing cap on the mating connecting rod to
prevent damage to the fractured cap and rod surfaces.
CLEANING
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
CAUTION: DO NOT use a wire wheel or other abrasive cleaning devise to clean the
pistons or connecting rods. The pistons have a Moly coating, this coating
must not be damaged.
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1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod
assembly.
INSPECTION
Check the connecting rod journal for excessive wear, taper and scoring.
Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bending.
Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape before it is fitted into the cylinder bore.
Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks and/or
deterioration.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 120: Piston And Connecting Rod Installation

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1 - "F" TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE

3 - RING COMPRESSOR
1. Before installing piston and connecting rod assemblies into the bore, install the piston rings.
2. Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil. Position a ring compressor over the piston and
rings. Tighten ring compressor. Ensure position of rings do not change during this operation.
3. Position bearing onto connecting rod. Ensure that tabs in bearing shell aligns with slots in connecting rod.
Verify that parting line of bearing is aligned with parting line of connecting rod.
4. Lubricate bearing surface with clean engine oil.
5. Install Connecting Rod Guides 8507 (4) onto connecting rod bolt threads. See Fig. 120.
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Fig. 121: Identifying Proper Connecting Rod Installation

1 - MAJOR THRUST SIDE OF PISTON

6. The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore surface with an raised "F" indicating installation position.
This mark must be pointing toward the front of engine on both cylinder banks. The connecting rod oil
slinger slot (2) faces the front of the engine. See Fig. 121.
7. Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with engine oil.
8. Rotate crankshaft until connecting rod journal is on the center of cylinder bore. Insert rod and piston into
cylinder bore and carefully position connecting rod guides over crankshaft journal.
9. Tap piston down in cylinder bore using a hammer handle. While at the same time, guide connecting rod
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into position on rod journal.
CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to Yield Bolts and Must Not Be
Reused. Always replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened or
removed.
10. Lubricate rod bolts and bearing surfaces with engine oil. Install connecting rod cap and bearing. Tighten
bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus 90°.
11. Install the following components:
Cylinder head(s). See INSTALLATION.
Timing chain and cover. See INSTALLATION).
Cylinder head covers. See INSTALLATION).
Oil pan and gasket/windage tray. See INSTALLATION.
12. Fill crankcase with proper engine oil to correct level.
RINGS-PISTON
STANDARD PROCEDURE
PISTON RING FITTING
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Fig. 122: Ring End Gap Measurement

1 - FEELER GAUGE
Before reinstalling used rings or installing new rings, the ring clearances must be checked.
1. Wipe the cylinder bore clean.

2. Insert the ring in the cylinder bore.
NOTE: The ring gap measurement must be made with the ring positioned at least
12mm (0.50 inch.) from bottom of cylinder bore.
3. Using a piston, to ensure that the ring is squared in the cylinder bore, slide the ring downward into the
cylinder.
4. Using a feeler gauge (1) check the ring end gap. Replace any rings not within specification.
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Fig. 123: Measuring Piston Ring Side Clearance

1 - FEELER GAUGE
PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE
NOTE: Make sure the piston ring grooves are clean and free of nicks and burrs.
5. Measure the ring side clearance as shown make sure the feeler gauge (1) fits snugly between the ring land
and the ring. Replace any ring not within specification.
6. Rotate the ring around the piston, the ring must rotate in the groove with out binding.
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PISTON RING SPECIFICATION CHART

Ring Position Groove Clearance Maximum
Clearance
Upper Ring 0.051 - 0.094 mm 0.11 mm
(0.0020 - 0.0037 (0.004 in.)
in.)
Intermediate Ring 0.04 - 0.08 mm 0.10 mm
(0.0016 - 0.0031 (0.004 in.)
in.)
Oil Control Ring 0.019 - 0.229 mm 0.25 mm
(Steel Rails) (0.0007-.0090 in.) (0.010 in.)
Ring Position Ring Gap Wear Limit
Upper Ring 0.20 - 0.36 mm 0.43 mm
- (0.0079 - 0.0142 (0.0017 in.)
in.)
Intermediate Ring 0.37 - 0.63 mm 0.74 mm
- (0.0146 - 0.0249 (0.029 in.)
in.)
Oil Control Ring 0.025 - 0.76 mm 1.55 mm
(Steel Rail) (0.0099 - 0.03 in.) (0.061 in.)
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Fig. 124: Side Rail - Installation

1 - SIDE RAIL END
7. The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a different cross section. Ensure No. 2 ring is installed with
manufacturers I.D. mark (Dot) facing up, towards top of the piston.
NOTE: Piston rings are installed in the following order:
Oil ring expander.

Upper oil ring side rail.
Lower oil ring side rail.
No. 2 Intermediate piston ring.
No. 1 Upper piston ring.
8. Install the oil ring expander.

9. Install upper side rail (1) by placing one end between the piston ring groove and the expander ring. Hold
end firmly and press down the portion to be installed until side rail is in position. Repeat this step for the
lower side rail.
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Fig. 125: Piston Ring Remover/Installer

10. Install No. 2 intermediate piston ring using a piston ring installer.
11. Install No. 1 upper piston ring using a piston ring installer.
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Fig. 126: Piston Ring End Gap Positions

1 - SIDE RAIL UPPER

2 - NO. 1 RING GAP
3 - PISTON PIN
4 - SIDE RAIL LOWER
5 - NO. 2 RING GAP AND SPACER EXPANDER GAP
12. Position piston ring end gaps as shown. It is important that expander ring gap (5) is at least 45° from the
side rail gaps, but not on the piston pin center or on the thrust direction.
DAMPER-CRANKSHAFT
REMOVAL
CRANKSHAFT DAMPER
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Fig. 127: Crankshaft Damper Removal

1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8513 I INSERT


NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud lower right hand corner.

4. Remove damper using Crankshaft Insert 8513A (1) and Three Jaw Puller 1026(2).
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INSTALLATION
CRANKSHAFT DAMPER
Fig. 128: Proper Assembly Method for Special Tool 8512-A

1 - BEARING
2 - NUT
3 - THREADED ROD
4 - BEARING HARDENED SURFACE (FACING NUT)
5 - HARDENED WASHER
CAUTION: To prevent severe damage to the Crankshaft, Damper or Special Tool 8512,
thoroughly clean the damper bore and the crankshaft nose before
installing Damper.
1. Align crankshaft damper slot with key in crankshaft. Slide damper onto crankshaft slightly.
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CAUTION: Damper Installer 8512A, is assembled in a specific sequence. Failure

to assemble this tool in this sequence can result in tool failure and
severe damage to either the tool or the crankshaft.
2. Assemble the Damper Installer 8512A as follows, The nut is threaded onto the shaft first. Then the roller
bearing (1) is placed onto the threaded rod (3) (The hardened bearing surface of the bearing MUST face
the nut). Then the hardened washer slides onto the threaded rod. See Fig. 128. Once assembled coat the
threaded rod's threads with Mopar® Nickel Anti-Seize or (Loctite No. 771).
Fig. 129: Using Damper Installer 8512A To Press Damper Onto Crankshaft
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8512A
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3. Using the Damper Installer 8512A (1), press damper onto the crankshaft. See Fig. 129.
4. Install then tighten crankshaft damper bolt to 175 N.m (130 ft. lbs.).
COVER-STRUCTURAL
DESCRIPTION
STRUCTURAL DUST COVER
The structural dust cover is made of die cast aluminum and joins the lower half of the transmission bell housing
to the engine bedplate.
OPERATION
STRUCTURAL DUST COVER
The structural cover provides additional powertrain stiffness and reduces noise and vibration.
REMOVAL
STRUCTURAL COVER
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Fig. 130: Removing/Installing Structural Cover

1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
1. Raise vehicle on hoist.

2. Remove the bolts (1) retaining structural cover. See Fig. 130.
3. Remove the structural cover.
INSTALLATION
STRUCTURAL COVER
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Fig. 131: Removing/Installing Structural Cover

1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as described in the following steps.
Failure to do so will cause severe damage to the cover.
1. Position the structural cover in the vehicle.

2. Install all bolts (1) retaining the cover-to-engine. DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time.
3. Install the cover-to-transmission bolts. Do NOT tighten at this time.
CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly against both the engine and
the transmission bell housing during tightening sequence. Failure to
do so may cause damage to the cover.
4. Starting with the two rear cover-to-engine bolts, tighten bolts (1) to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.), then tighten bolts
(2) and (3) to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown. See Fig. 131
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ENGINE MOUNTING
MOUNT - ENGINE FRONT
REMOVAL
REMOVAL FRONT ENGINE MOUNT
Fig. 132: Engine Insulator Mount 3.7 Left

1 -MOUNT
2 - NUT
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3 - SHIELD
4 - FASTENER
5 - BOLT
6 - THRU BOLT
CAUTION: Remove the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud before raising
engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan
clutch and fan shroud.
2. Remove the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud. Refer to COOLING for procedure.
3. Remove the engine oil filter.
4. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
5. Remove the four cylinder block-to-insulator mount bolts (5) and the nut from the engine insulator mount
through bolt.
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Fig. 133: Engine Insulator Mount 3.7 Right

1 - MOUNT
2 - THRU BOLT
3 - BOLT
4 - NUT
6. Using the jack, raise the engine high enough to remove the engine insulator mount thru bolt (2) and the
insulator mount and. See Fig. 132 and Fig. 133.
INSTALLATION
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INSTALLATION FRONT ENGINE MOUNT
1. Position the insulator mount and install the insulator mount through bolt.
2. Lower the engine until the cylinder block-to-insulator mount bolts can be installed.
3. Remove the jack and block of wood.
4. Tighten the cylinder block-to-insulator mount bolts to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
5. Install and tighten the through bolt retaining nut to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
6. Install the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
MOUNT - ENGINE REAR
REMOVAL
ENGINE MOUNT - REAR
NOTE: A resilient rubber cushion supports the transmission at the rear between the
transmission extension housing and the rear support crossmember or skid
plate.

2. Raise the vehicle and support the transmission.
3. Remove the nuts holding the support cushion to the crossmember. Remove the crossmember.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
Remove the support cushion nuts and remove the cushion.

Remove the transmission support bracket bolts and remove the bracket from the transmission.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Remove the support cushion bolts and remove the cushion and the support bracket from the transmission
(4WD) or from the adaptor bracket (2WD).
On 2WD vehicles, remove the bolts holding the transmission support adaptor bracket to the transmission.
Remove the adaptor bracket.
INSTALLATION
ENGINE MOUNT - REAR
MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
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Fig. 134: Transmission Mount - 2.4L Manual Trans

1 - TRANSMISSION MOUNT
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
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Fig. 135: Transmission Mount - 3.7L Manual Trans 2WD

1 - NUT
2 - BOLT
3 - TRANS MOUNT
1. Install the transmission mount (1) to the transmission. Install the bolts (2) and tighten.
2. Position the crossmember in the vehicle. Install the crossmember to mount through bolt and nut.
3. Install crossmember-to-sill bolts and tighten to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.)
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4. Remove the transmission support.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:
Fig. 136: Transmission Mount - 3.7L 2WD Auto Trans

1 - BOLT
2 - MOUNT
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1 - MOUNT
2 - BOLT
1. Install the transmission mount to transmission and See Fig. 136 and Fig. 137. Install the bolts.
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LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
LUBRICATION
The lubrication system is a full flow filtration pressure feed type.
OPERATION
LUBRICATION
Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Block: Table 1

FROM TO
Oil Pickup Tube Oil Pump
Oil Pump Oil Filter
Oil Filter Block Main Oil Gallery
Block Main Oil Gallery 1. Crankshaft Main Journal
- 2. Left Cylinder Head*
- 3. Right Cylinder Head*
- 4. Counterbalance Shaft Rear Journal
Crankshaft Main Journals Crankshaft Rod Journals
Crankshaft Number One Main Journal 1. Front Timing Chain Idler Shaft
- 2. Counterbalance Shaft - Front Journal
- 3. Both Secondary Chain Tensioners
Left Cylinder Head Refer to Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Cylinder
Heads: Table 2
Right Cylinder Head Refer to Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Cylinder
Heads: Table 2
* The cylinder head gaskets have an oil restrictor to control oil flow to the cylinder heads
Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Cylinder Heads: Table 2

FROM TO
Cylinder Head Oil Port (in bolt hole) Diagonal Cross Drilling to Main Oil Gallery
Main Oil Gallery (drilled through head from rear to 1. Base of Camshaft Towers
front)
- 2. Lash Adjuster Towers
Base of Camshaft Towers Vertical Drilling Through Tower to Camshaft
Bearings**
Lash Adjuster Towers Diagonal Drillings to Hydraulic Lash Adjuster
Pockets
** The number three camshaft bearing journal feeds oil into the hollow camshaft tubes. Oil is routed to
the intake lobes, which have oil passages drilled into them to lubricate the rocker arms.
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Fig. 138: Lubrication Oil Flow

1 - OIL FLOW TO RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD

2 - CYLINDER BLOCK MAIN OIL GALLERY
3 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD OIL GALLERY
4 - OIL FLOW TO BOTH SECONDARY TENSIONERS
5 - OIL FLOW TO LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
6 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR LOCATION
7 - OIL FLOW TO COUNTER BALANCE SHAFT
8 - OIL PUMP OUTLET TO CYLINDER BLOCK
9 - OIL PUMP
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10 - OIL FLOW TO CRANKSHAFT MAIN JOURNALS

11 - CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING JOURNALS
12 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD OIL GALLERY
Oil from the oil pan is pumped by a gerotor type oil pump (9) directly mounted to the crankshaft nose. Oil
pressure is controlled by a relief valve mounted inside the oil pump housing.
The camshaft exhaust valve lobes and rocker arms are lubricated through a small hole in the rocker arm; oil
flows through the lash adjuster then through the rocker arm and onto the camshaft lobe. Due to the orientation
of the rocker arm, the camshaft intake lobes are not lubed in the same manner as the exhaust lobes. The intake
lobes are lubed through internal passages in the camshaft. Oil flows through a bore in the No. 3 camshaft
bearing bore, and as the camshaft turns, a hole in the camshaft aligns with the hole in the camshaft bore
allowing engine oil to enter the camshaft tube. See Fig. 138. The oil then exits through 1.6mm (0.063 in.) holes
drilled into the intake lobes, lubricating the lobes and the rocker arms.
ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil
leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell,
temporarily stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil
leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service information instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat
inspection.
If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time , proceed with the AIR LEAK
DETECTION TEST METHOD.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
1. Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
2. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
3. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of
test pressure.
4. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applying soapy water at the suspected
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source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint
the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service information procedures.
5. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS.
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the
PCV valve and breather cap hose.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds
approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

 Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore cup
plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
METHOD.

remove minor nicks and scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is
especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
REAR CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL AREA LEAKS
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 Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs,
oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See Engine, for proper
repair procedures of these items.
METHOD.

remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is
See ENGINE LUBRICATION DIAGNOSTIC TABLE under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified. See REMOVAL.
CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
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Fig. 139: Locating Oil Pressure Sending Unit, Connector & Oil Filter
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
1. Remove oil pressure sending unit. See Fig. 139 (2) and install gauge assembly C-3292.
2. Run engine until thermostat opens.
3. Oil Pressure:
Curb Idle - 25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
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3000 rpm - 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)

4. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief
valve stuck open.
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
ENGINE OIL SERVICE
Fig. 140: Identifying Engine Oil & Transmission Dipsticks & Engine Oil Fill Cap
1 - TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK
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2 - ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK

3 - ENGINE OIL FILL CAP
The engine oil level indicator. See Fig. 140 (1) is located at the right rear of the engine on the 3.7L/4.7L
engines.
CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil, pressure loss or oil foaming can
result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800 kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhibited loss of
oil pressure, run the engine for about five minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil level on a cold
engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The
acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
1. Position vehicle on level surface.

2. With engine OFF, allow approximately ten minutes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
3. Wipe dipstick clean.
4. Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the tube.
5. Remove dipstick, with handle held above the tip, take oil level reading.
6. Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules.
Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.
1. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.

2. Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
3. Remove oil fill cap.
4. Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
5. Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
6. Install drain plug in crankcase.
7. Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type and amount of engine oil described in this article.
8. Install oil fill cap.
9. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
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10. Stop engine and inspect oil level.
NOTE: Care should be exercised when disposing used engine oil after it has been
drained from a vehicle engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this
article.
FILTER-ENGINE OIL
REMOVAL
ENGINE OIL FILTER
Fig. 141: Oil Filter Location

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1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Corporation
recommends a Mopar® or equivalent oil filter be used.
1. Position a drain pan under the oil filter (1).

2. Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
3. Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise. See Fig. 141 to remove it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
4. When filter separates from cylinder block oil filter boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil spill.
Remove filter from vehicle.
NOTE: Make sure filter gasket was removed with filter.
5. With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing surface of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
ENGINE OIL FILTER
Fig. 142: Removing/Installing Oil Filter

1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
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1. Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket. See Fig. 142 (2) with engine oil.
2. Thread filter (3) onto adapter nipple. When gasket makes contact with sealing surface, hand tighten filter
one full turn, do not over tighten.
3. Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
PAN-ENGINE OIL
DESCRIPTION
OIL PAN
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Fig. 143: Oil Pan & Gasket

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1 - OIL PAN
2 - WINDAGE TRAY AND INTEGRATED OIL PAN GASKET
The engine oil pan. See Fig. 143 (1) is made of laminated steel and has a single plane sealing surface. The
sandwich style oil pan gasket has an integrated windage tray (2) and steel carrier. The sealing area of the gasket
is molded with rubber and is designed to be reused as long as the gasket is not cut, torn or ripped.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL-4X4
1. Disconnect Battery.
2. Install Engine Support Fixture 8534.
3. Raise and support vehicle.
4. Remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
5. Remove skid plate (if equipped).
6. Drain engine oil.
7. Remove engine to transmission structural cover, (if equipped).
8. Remove transmission oil cooler line bracket.
9. Remove the front axle assembly from the vehicle.
10. Loosen both engine mount through bolts.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the viscous fan , or fan shroud, for oil pan
removal.
12. Raise the engine using Engine Support Fixture 8534, until the viscous fan almost touches the fan shroud.
14. Remove the oil pan bolts.
15. Separate the oil pan from the engine.
16. Remove the (2) nuts and (1) bolt holding the oil pump pick-up tube, and windage tray in place.
NOTE: It will be necessary to move the oil pan from side to side to gain access to
these fasteners.
17. Drop the oil pump pick-up tube into the oil pan, and remove the oil pan, pick-up tube, and the windage
tray, as an assembly, from the front of the vehicle.
REMOVAL OIL PAN - 4X2
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Fig. 144: Oil Pan & Gasket

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1 - OIL PAN
2 - WINDAGE TRAY AND INTEGRATED OIL PAN GASKET
1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.

2. Install engine support fixture.
4. Remove front wheel assemblies.
5. Remove skid plate (if equipped). Refer to REMOVAL .
6. Drain engine oil.
7. Mark adjustment cam position of front lower control arm bolts.
8. Remove front lower control arm bolts. Refer to REMOVAL .
9. Disconnect LH tie rod. Refer to REMOVAL .
10. Disconnect LH lower ball joint. Refer to REMOVAL .
11. Disconnect LH strut clevis. Refer to REMOVAL .
12. Remove LH front axle. Refer to REMOVAL .
13. Remove front axle brace bolts.
14. Remove front prop shaft. Refer to REMOVAL .
15. Drain front axle.
16. Using a transmission jack, support front axle.
17. Remove axle bracket bolts.
18. With RH axle still in place, remove front differential.
19. Remove transmission oil cooler line bracket.
20. Remove engine to transmission stiffening bracket.
21. Position Engine Support 8534 on the fender lip and align the slots in the brackets with the fender
mounting holes.
22. Secure brackets to the fender using four M6 X 1.0 X 25 MM flanged cap screws.
23. Tighten the thumbscrews to secure the sleeves to the support tube.
24. Secure the support tube in an upright position.
25. Assemble the flat washer, thrust bearing, hook and T handle.
26. Using the M10 X 1.75 mm flanged nut supplied with the support fixture, secure the chain to the front
engine lifting stud.
27. Loosen engine mounts.
28. Remove oil pan bolts.
29. Separate oil pan (1) from engine.
30. Move oil pan to one side, remove oils sump bolt and windage tray bolts,
NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gasket is integral to engine
windage tray and does not come out with oil pan. See Fig. 144.
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31. Move the oil pan and windage tray (2) toward front of vehicle and remove from vehicle.
CLEANING
OIL PAN
1. Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a clean cloth.
2. Clean the oil pan gasket surface. DO NOT use a grinder wheel or other abrasive tool to clean sealing
surface.
3. Clean oil screen and tube thoroughly in clean solvent.
INSPECTION
OIL PAN
1. Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for stripped or damaged threads. Repair as necessary.
2. Inspect the oil pan mounting flange for bends or distortion. Straighten flange, if necessary.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 4X4
1. Inspect oil pan gasket for defects, and replace if necessary.

2. Clean the oil pan and block gasket mating surfaces.
3. Drop the oil pump pick-up tube into the oil pan, and install the oil pan, pick-up tube, and the windage
4. Install the windage tray, then the oil pump pick-up tube, and the (2) nuts and (1) bolt holding the oil pump
pick-up tube, in place.
these fasteners.
5. Torque the pick-up tube fasteners.

6. Install the oil pan.
7. Install and torque the oil pan bolts.
8. Install the engine to transmission structural cover, (if equipped).
10. Lower the engine using Engine Support Fixture 8534.
11. Remove the Engine Support Fixture 8534.
13. Tighten both engine mount through bolts.
14. Install the transmission oil cooler line bracket.
15. Install the front axle assembly to the vehicle.
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16. Install the skid plate (if equipped).

17. Install the front wheel and tire assemblies.
19. Refill engine oil.
20. Reconnect battery.
21. Start engine, and check for leaks.
INSTALLATION OIL PAN - 4X2
Fig. 145: Oil Pan Bolt Torque Sequence - 3.7L

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1. Clean the oil pan gasket mating surface of the bedplate and oil pan.
2. Clean the oil pan and block gasket mating surfaces.
3. Inspect integrated oil pan gasket, and replace as necessary.
4. Drop the oil pump pick-up tube into the oil pan, and install the oil pan, pick-up tube, and the windage
5. Install the windage tray, then the oil pump pick-up tube, and the (2) nuts and (1) bolt holding the oil pump
pick-up tube, in place.
these fasteners.
6. Tighten the pick-up tube fasteners.

7. Install the oil pan.
8. Install and tighten the oil pan bolts. See Fig. 145.
9. Install the engine to transmission structural cover, (if equipped).
10. Lower engine, and remove Engine Support 8534.
12. Lower the engine using Engine Support Fixture 8534.
13. Remove the Engine Support Fixture 8534.
15. Tighten both engine mount through bolts.
16. Install the transmission oil cooler line bracket.
18. Refill engine oil.
19. Reconnect battery.
20. Start engine and check for leaks.
SWITCH-OIL PRESSURE
DESCRIPTION
OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
The oil pressure switch is a pressure sensitive switch that is activated by the engine's oil pressure (in the main
oil gallery). The switch is a two terminal device (one terminal is provided to the wiring harness and the other
terminal is the switch's metal housing that screws into the engine block).
OPERATION
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
The oil pressure switch is normally "Closed." The switch changes from a "Closed" circuit to an "Open" circuit,
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on increasing pressure of 7 psi. The oil pressure switch changes from an "Open" circuit to a "Closed" circuit, on
decreasing pressure, between 2 psi and 4 psi.
REMOVAL
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
Fig. 146: Locating Oil Pressure Sending Unit, Connector & Oil Filter
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
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4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR

3. Remove front splash shield.
4. Disconnect oil pressure sender wire (4).
5. Remove the pressure sender. See Fig. 146 (2).
INSTALLATION
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
1. Install oil pressure sender.

2. Connect oil pressure sender wire.
3. Install front splash shield.
4. Lower vehicle.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
PUMP-ENGINE OIL
REMOVAL
OIL PUMP
1. Remove the oil pan and pick-up tube. See REMOVAL.

2. Remove the timing chain cover. See REMOVAL).
3. Remove the timing chains and tensioners. See REMOVAL.
4. Remove the four bolts, primary timing chain tensioner and the oil pump.
DISASSEMBLY
OIL PUMP
1. Remove oil pump cover screws and lift off cover plate.
2. Remove pump inner and outer rotors.
NOTE: Once the oil pressure relief valve, cup plug, and pin are removed, the
pump assembly must be replaced.
3. If it is necessary to remove the pressure relief valve, drive the roll pin from pump housing and remove
cup plug, spring and valve.
INSPECTION
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OIL PUMP
Fig. 147: Checking Oil Pump Cover Flatness

1 - STRAIGHT EDGE
2 - FEELER GAUGE
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
CAUTION: Oil pump pressure relief valve and spring should not be removed from the
oil pump. If these components are disassembled and or removed from the
pump the entire oil pump assembly must be replaced.
1. Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the pump cover
is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
2. Lay a straight edge across the pump cover surface (3). If a 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) feeler gauge (2) can be
inserted between the cover and the straight edge the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
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Fig. 148: Measuring Outer Rotor Thickness

3. Measure the thickness of the outer rotor. If the outer rotor thickness measures at 12.005 mm (0.472 in.) or
less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
4. Measure the diameter of the outer rotor. If the outer rotor diameter measures at 85.925 mm (3.382 in.) or
less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
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Fig. 149: Measuring Inner Rotor Thickness

5. Measure the thickness of the inner rotor. If the inner rotor thickness measures at 12.005 mm (0.472 in.) or
less then the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
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Fig. 150: Measuring Outer Rotor Clearance

1-
FEELER
GAUGE
2-
OUTER
ROTOR
6. Slide outer rotor (2) into the body of the oil pump. Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body
and measure clearance between the outer rotor and the body. If the measurement is 0.235mm (0.009 in.)
or more the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
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Fig. 151: Measuring Clearance Between Rotors

1-
OUTER
ROTOR
2-
FEELER
GAUGE
3-
INNER
ROTOR
7. Install the inner rotor into the oil pump body. Measure the clearance between the inner (3) and outer (1)
rotors. If the clearance between the rotors is .150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be
replaced.
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Fig. 152: Measuring Flatness Of Rotors

1-
STRAIGHT
EDGE
2-
FEELER
GAUGE
8. Place a straight edge (1) across the body of the oil pump (between the bolt holes), if a feeler gauge (2)
of.095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump must
be replaced.
NOTE: The 3.7L/4.7L Oil pump is released as an assembly. There are no

DaimlerChrysler part numbers for Sub-Assembly components. In the event the
oil pump is not functioning or out of specification it must be replaced as an
assembly.
ASSEMBLY
OIL PUMP
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1. Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect carefully for damage or wear.
2. Install inner and outer rotors
3. Install oil pump cover plate and install cover bolts and tighten them to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
4. Prime oil pump before installation by filling rotor cavity with engine oil.
5. If oil pressure is low and pump is within specifications, inspect for worn engine bearings or other causes
for oil pressure loss.
INSTALLATION
OIL PUMP
Fig. 153: Primary Timing Chain Tensioner Bolt Tightening Sequence

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1. Position the oil pump onto the crankshaft and install two oil pump retaining bolts.
2. Position the primary timing chain tensioner and install the two retaining bolts.
3. Tighten the oil pump and primary timing chain tensioner retaining bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.) in the
sequence shown. See Fig. 153.
4. Install the secondary timing chain tensioners and timing chains. See INSTALLATION.
5. Install the timing chain cover. See INSTALLATION).
6. Install the pick-up tube and oil pan. See INSTALLATION.
MANIFOLDS
MANIFOLD-INTAKE
DESCRIPTION
INTAKE MANIFOLD

The intake manifold is made of a composite material and features 300 mm (11.811 in.) long runners which
maximizes low end torque. See Fig. 154.
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Fig. 155: Intake Manifold Seals

The intake manifold uses single plane sealing which consist of six individual press in place port gaskets (2) to
prevent leaks. The throttle body attaches directly to the intake manifold.
INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or more
cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT

STAND IN A DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS
NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE
CLOTHING.
1. Start the engine.

2. Spray a small stream of water (spray bottle) at the suspected leak area.
3. If engine RPM'S change, the area of the suspected leak has been found.
4. Repair as required.
REMOVAL
INTAKE MANIFOLD
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Fig. 156: Throttle Body 3.7L, Mounting Bolts & Elec. Connector
1 - THROTTLE BODY
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
1. Bleed the fuel system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .

2. Disconnect the negative cable from battery.
3. Remove the resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
4. Drain the cooling system below coolant temperature sensor level.
5. Disconnect the electronic throttle control (ETC) connector (3).
Fig. 157: Map Sensor - 3.7L, Map Sensor, ECT Sensor & Front Of Intake Manifold
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1 - MOUNTING SCREWS
2 - MAP SENSOR
3 - ECT SENSOR
4 - FRONT OF INTAKE MANIFOLD
6. Disconnect electrical connectors for the following components:

Coolant Temperature Sensor
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor (2)
Fig. 158: EGR Solenoid/Tube Assembly

7. Disconnect vapor purge hose, brake booster hose, and positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
8. Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers.
9. Remove the top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt.
10. Remove the EGR tube (1). Refer to REMOVAL .
11. Remove fuel rail. Refer to REMOVAL .
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1 - THROTTLE BODY
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
12. Remove throttle body assembly (1).

13. Remove the intake manifold retaining fasteners in reverse order of tightening sequence.
14. Remove the intake manifold.
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INSTALLATION
INTAKE MANIFOLD

1. Install the intake manifold seals.

2. Install the intake manifold.
3. Install the intake manifold retaining bolts and tighten in sequence shown to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
1 - THROTTLE BODY
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2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
CAUTION: Proper torque of the throttle body is critical to normal operation. If

the throttle body is over-torqued, damage to the throttle body can
occur resulting in throttle plate malfunction.
4. Install the throttle body-to-intake manifold O-ring.

5. Install the throttle body (1) to intake manifold.
6. Install the four mounting bolts (2). Tighten bolts to 7 N.m (60 in. lbs.).
7. Install electrical connector (3).
Fig. 163: EGR Solenoid/Tube Assembly


9. Install the EGR tube (1). Refer to INSTALLATION .
10. Install ignition coil towers.
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Fig. 164: Map Sensor - 3.7L, Mounting Screws, ECT Sensor & Front Of Intake Manifold
1 - MOUNTING SCREWS
2 - MAP SENSOR
3 - ECT SENSOR
11. Connect electrical connectors for the following components:

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor (2)
Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
Ignition coil towers
12. Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt.
13. Connect Vapor purge hose, Brake booster hose, Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
14. Fill the cooling system.
15. Install the resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
16. Connect the negative cable to battery.
17. Using the scan tool, perform the ETC Relearn function.
MANIFOLD-EXHAUST
DESCRIPTION
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
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Fig. 165: Exhaust Manifolds

1 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD

2 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD
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Fig. 166: Exhaust Manifold Heat Shields

1 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELD

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2 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE

3 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELD
4 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE
The exhaust manifolds. See Fig. 166 (1,2) are log style with a patented flow enhancing design to maximize
performance. The exhaust manifolds are made of high silicon molybdenum cast iron. A perforated core graphite
exhaust manifold gasket is used to improve sealing to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifolds are covered by
a three layer laminated heat shield (3) for thermal protection and noise reduction. The heat shields are fastened
with a torque prevailing nut that is backed off slightly to allow for the thermal expansion of the exhaust
manifold.
REMOVAL
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
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Fig. 167: Exhaust Manifold - Right

1 - HEAT SHIELD
2 - NUTS
3 - MANIFOLD FLANGE

2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
5. Remove the exhaust heat shield (1).
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6. Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching manifold to cylinder head.

7. Remove manifold. See Fig. 167 and gasket from the cylinder head.
LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
Fig. 168: Exhaust Manifold - Left

1 - HEAT SHIELD
2 - NUTS
3 - MANIFOLD FLANGE

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3. Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
5. Remove the exhaust heat shields (1).
6. Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching manifold to cylinder head.
7. Remove manifold. See Fig. 168 and gasket from the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when removing the engine exhaust
manifold, install new studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends. Water
leaks may develop at the studs if this precaution is not taken.
1. Position the engine exhaust manifold and gasket on the two studs located on the cylinder head. Install
conical washers and nuts on these studs.
2. Install remaining conical washers. Starting at the center arm and working outward, tighten the bolts and
nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.)
3. Install the exhaust heat shields.
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort
and/or crack.
5. Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and nuts to
34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.)
LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when removing the engine exhaust
manifold, install new studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends. Water
leaks may develop at the studs if this precaution is not taken.
1. Position the engine exhaust manifold and gasket on the two studs located on the cylinder head. Install
conical washers and nuts on these studs.
2. Install remaining conical washers. Starting at the center arm and working outward, tighten the bolts and
nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.)
3. Install the exhaust heat shields.
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CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort
and/or crack.
5. Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and nuts to
34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.)
VALVE TIMING
DESCRIPTION
TIMING DRIVE
Fig. 169: Timing Drive System

1 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN

2 - SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER (LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE NOT
INTERCHANGEABLE)
3 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM
4 - LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN
5 - CHAIN GUIDE (LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE)
6 - PRIMARY CHAIN
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7 - IDLER SPROCKET
8 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
9 - PRIMARY CHAIN TENSIONER
The timing drive system. See Fig. 169 has been designed to provide quiet performance and reliability to support
a non-free wheeling engine. Specifically the intake valves are non-free wheeling and can be easily damaged
with forceful engine rotation if camshaft-to-crankshaft timing is incorrect. The timing drive system consists of a
primary chain (6), two secondary timing chain drives (1,4) and a counterbalance shaft drive.
OPERATION
TIMING DRIVE
The primary timing chain is a single inverted tooth chain type. The primary chain drives the large 50 tooth idler
sprocket directly from a 25 tooth crankshaft sprocket. Primary chain motion is controlled by a pivoting leaf
spring tensioner arm and a fixed guide. The arm and the guide both use nylon plastic wear faces for low friction
and long wear. The primary chain receives oil splash lubrication from the secondary chain drive and designed
oil pump leakage. The idler sprocket assembly connects the primary chain drive, secondary chain drives, and
the counterbalance shaft. The idler sprocket assembly consists of two integral 26 tooth sprockets a 50 tooth
sprocket and a helical gear that is press-fit to the assembly. The spline joint for the 50 tooth sprocket is a non
serviceable press fit anti rattle type. The idler sprocket assembly spins on a stationary idler shaft. The idler shaft
is a light press-fit into the cylinder block. A large washer on the idler shaft bolt and the rear flange of the idler
shaft are used to control sprocket thrust movement. Pressurized oil is routed through the center of the idler shaft
to provide lubrication for the two bushings used in the idler sprocket assembly.
There are two secondary drive chains, both are roller type, one to drive the camshaft in each SOHC cylinder
head. There are no shaft speed changes in the secondary chain drive system. Each secondary chain drives a 26
tooth cam sprocket directly from the 26 tooth sprocket on the idler sprocket assembly. A fixed chain guide and a
hydraulic oil damped tensioner are used to maintain tension in each secondary chain system. The hydraulic
tensioners for the secondary chain systems are fed pressurized oil from oil reservoir pockets in the block. Each
tensioner incorporates a controlled leak path through a device known as a vent disc located in the nose of the
piston to manage chain loads. Each tensioner also has a mechanical ratchet system that limits chain slack if the
tensioner piston bleeds down after engine shut down. The tensioner arms and guides also utilize nylon wear
faces for low friction and long wear. The secondary timing chains receive lubrication from a small orifice in the
tensioners. This orifice is protected from clogging by a fine mesh screen which is located on the back of the
hydraulic tensioners.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
TIMING VERIFICATION
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CAUTION: The 3.7L is a non free-wheeling design engine. Therefore, correct engine
timing is critical.
NOTE: Components referred to as left hand or right hand are as viewed from the
drivers position inside the vehicle.
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NOTE: The blue link plates on the chains and the dots on the camshaft drive sprockets
may not line up during the timing verification procedure. The blue link plates
are lined up with the sprocket dots only when re-timing the complete timing
drive. Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot alignment is no longer
valid.
Engine base timing can be verified by the following procedure:
1. Remove the cylinder head covers. Refer to the procedure in this article.
2. Using a mirror, locate the TDC arrow on the front cover. Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the
crankshaft damper (2) is aligned with the TDC arrow on the front cover (2). The engine is now at TDC.
See Fig. 170.
Fig. 171: Camshaft Sprocket V6 Marks (#1 TDC, Exhaust Stroke)


3. Note the location of the V6 mark stamped into the camshaft drive gears (1,2). If the V6 mark on each
camshaft drive gear is at the twelve o'clock position, the engine is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. If the V6
mark on each gear is at the six o'clock position, the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke. See Fig.
171.
4. If both of the camshaft drive gears are off in the same or opposite directions, the primary chain or both
secondary chains are at fault. Refer to Timing Chain and Sprockets procedure in this article.
5. If only one of the camshaft drive gears is off and the other is correct, the problem is confined to one
secondary chain. Refer to Single camshaft timing, in this procedure.
6. If both camshaft drive gear V6 marks are at the twelve o'clock or the six o'clock position the engine base
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timing is correct. Reinstall the cylinder head covers.
COUNTER BALANCE SHAFT TIMING
Fig. 172: Counterbalance Shaft Alignment Marks

1 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT GEAR

2 - TIMING MARK
3 - IDLER SPROCKET GEAR
1. Ensure that the engine is at TDC with both camshaft sprocket V6 marks in the 12 o'clock position.
2. Look down the left cylinder head chain cavity. The timing dot (2) on the counter balance shaft drive gear
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should be in the 6 o'clock position. See Fig. 172.
TIMING - SINGLE CAMSHAFT
Fig. 173: Securing Timing Chain Tensioner Using Timing Chain Wedge
1 - CYLINDER HEAD
2 -SPECIAL TOOL 8379
3 - TIMING CHAIN
NOTE: To adjust the timing on one camshaft, preform the following procedure.
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1. Using the Wedge Locking Tool 8379 (2), stabilize the secondary chain drive. For reference purposes,
mark the chain-to-sprocket position. See Fig. 173.
Fig. 174: Removing/Installing Camshaft Drive Gear

1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8379 TIMING CHAIN WEDGE

2 - CAMSHAFT DRIVE GEAR
3 - RETAINING BOLT
4 - CYLINDER HEAD
2. Remove the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt. See Fig. 174(3).
3. Carefully remove the camshaft drive gear from the camshaft.
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Fig. 175: Camshaft Sprocket V6 Marks (#1 TDC, Exhaust Stroke)


4. Re-index the camshaft drive gear in the chain until the V6 mark is at the same position as the V6 mark on
the opposite camshaft drive gear. See Fig. 175(1,2).
5. Using the Camshaft Holder 8428, rotate the camshaft until the alignment dowel on the camshaft is
aligned with the slot in the camshaft drive gear.
reinstalling bolt. Failure to do so may cause over-torqueing of bolt
6. Position the camshaft drive gear onto the camshaft, remove oil from bolt then install the retaining bolt.
Using Special Tools, Spanner Wrench 6958 with Adapter Pins 8346 and a suitable torque wrench,
Tighten the retaining bolt to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.)
7. Remove the Wedge Locking Tool 8379.
8. Rotate the crankshaft two full revolutions, then verify that the camshaft drive gear V6 marks are in fact
aligned.
9. Install the cylinder head covers. Refer to Cylinder Head Cover in this article.
MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR
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Fig. 176: Checking Secondary Timing Chains for Wear

1 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM

2 - SECONDARY CHAIN TENSIONER PISTON
NOTE: This procedure must be performed with the timing chain cover removed.
1. Remove the timing chain cover. See REMOVAL.

2. To determine if the secondary timing chains are worn, rotate the engine clockwise until maximum
tensioner piston (2) extension is obtained. Measure the distance between the secondary timing chain
tensioner housing and the step ledge on the piston. The measurement at point (A) must be less than 15mm
(.5906 inches). See Fig. 176.
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3. If the measurement exceeds the specification the secondary timing chains are worn and require
replacement. See REMOVAL.
SHAFT-BALANCE
REMOVAL
BALANCE SHAFT
Fig. 177: Idler Shaft, Counterbalance Shaft Thrust Plate, Counterbalance Shaft Drive Gear & Retaining
Bolt
1 - IDLER SHAFT
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2 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT THRUST PLATE

3 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT DRIVE GEAR
4 - RETAINING BOLT
1. Remove the primary and secondary timing chains. Refer to TIMING CHAIN and SPROCKET.
NOTE: The balance shaft and gear are serviced as an assembly. Do not attempt to
remove the gear from the balance shaft.
Remove the retaining bolt (4) from the counterbalance shaft thrust plate (2). See Fig. 177.
Fig. 178: Counterbalance Shaft Removal/Installation Tool

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1 - COUNTERBALANCE
SHAFT REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION TOOL
2 - COUNTERBALANCE
SHAFT THRUST PLATE
2. Using the Counterbalance Shaft Remover/Installer tool 8641 (1), remove the counterbalance shaft from
the engine. See Fig. 178.
INSTALLATION
BALANCE SHAFT
Fig. 179: Counterbalance Shaft Removal/Installation Tool

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1 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TOOL

2 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT THRUST PLATE
NOTE: The balance shaft and gear are serviced as an assembly. Do not attempt to
remove the gear from the balance shaft.
1. Coat counterbalance shaft bearing journals with clean engine oil.
NOTE: The balance shaft is heavy, and care should be used when installing shaft,
so bearings are not damaged.
2. Using the Counterbalance Shaft Remover/Installer 8641 (1), carefully install counterbalance shaft into
engine. See Fig. 179.
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Fig. 180: Idler Shaft, Counterbalance Shaft Thrust Plate, Counterbalance Shaft Drive Gear &
Retaining Bolt
1 - IDLER SHAFT
2 - COUNTERBALANCE
SHAFT THRUST PLATE
3 - COUNTERBALANCE
SHAFT DRIVE GEAR
4 - RETAINING BOLT
3. Install Counterbalance shaft thrust plate retaining bolt (4) finger tight. Do not tighten bolt at this time.
4. Position the right side of the thrust plate with the right chain guide bolt, install bolt finger tight.
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5. Tighten the thrust plate retaining bolt (4) to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.) See Fig. 180.
6. Remove the chain guide bolt so that guide can be installed.
COVER-TIMING
REMOVAL
TIMING CHAIN COVER
Fig. 181: Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner

1 - TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
2 - FASTENER TENSIONER TO FRONT COVER
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3. Remove electric cooling fan and fan shroud assembly.
4. Remove fan and fan drive assembly.
5. Disconnect both heater hoses at timing cover.
6. Disconnect lower radiator hose at engine.
7. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner assembly (1). See Fig. 181.
Fig. 182: Timing Chain Cover Fastener Tightening Sequence

8. Remove crankshaft damper. See REMOVAL.

9. Remove the generator. Refer to REMOVAL .
10. Remove the A/C compressor. Refer to REMOVAL .
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CAUTION: The 3.7L engine uses an anaerobic sealer instead of a gasket to seal
the front cover to the engine block, from the factory. For service,
Mopar® Grey Engine RTV sealant must be substituted.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the water pump for timing cover removal.
11. Remove the bolts holding the timing cover to engine block. See Fig. 182
12. Remove the timing cover.
INSTALLATION
TIMING CHAIN COVER
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Fig. 183: Timing Cover, Water Passage O-ring & Mopar® Engine RTV Sealer

2 - WATER PASSAGE ORING
3 - MOPAR® ENGINE RTV SEALER
CAUTION: Do not use oil based liquids to clean timing cover or block surfaces. Use
only rubbing alcohol, along with plastic or wooden scrapers. Use no wire
brushes or abrasive wheels or metal scrapers, or damage to surfaces
could result.
1. Clean timing chain cover and block surface using rubbing alcohol.
CAUTION: The 3.7L uses a special anaerobic sealer instead of a gasket to seal
the timing cover to the engine block, from the factory. For service
repairs, Mopar® Grey Engine RTV must be used as a substitute.
2. Inspect the water passage o-rings for any damage, and replace as necessary.
3. Apply Mopar® Grey Engine RTV sealer (3) to the front cover following the path below, using a 3 to
4mm thick bead. See Fig. 183.
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Fig. 184: Timing Chain Cover Fastener Tightening Sequence

4. Install cover. Tighten flange head fasteners in sequence shown to 58 N.m (43 ft. lbs.). See Fig. 184.
5. Install crankshaft damper. See INSTALLATION.
6. Install the A/C compressor. Refer to INSTALLATION .
7. Install the generator. Refer to INSTALLATION .
8. Install accessory drive belt tensioner assembly. Refer to INSTALLATION .
9. Install radiator upper and lower hoses.
10. Install both heater hoses.
11. Install electric fan shroud and viscous fan drive assembly.
12. Fill cooling system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
SHAFT-IDLER
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REMOVAL
IDLER SHAFT
1. Remove the primary and secondary timing chains and sprockets. Refer to procedure in this article.
NOTE: To remove the idler shaft, it is necessary to tap threads into the shaft, to
install the removal tool.
2. Using a 12 mm X 1.75 tap, cut threads in the idler shaft center bore.
3. Cover the radiator core with a suitable cover.
CAUTION: Use care when removing the idler shaft, Do not strike the radiator
cooling fins with the slide hammer.
4. Using Slide Hammer 8517 remove the idler shaft.
INSTALLATION
IDLER SHAFT
1. Thoroughly clean the idler shaft bore.

2. Position the idler shaft in the bore.
NOTE: The two lubrication holes in the idler shaft do not require any special
alignment.
NOTE: Before using the retaining bolt to install the idler shaft, coat the threads
and the pilot on the idler shaft, with clean engine oil.
3. Using the primary idler sprocket retaining bolt and washer, carefully draw the idler shaft into the bore
until fully seated.
4. Coat the idler shaft with clean engine oil.
5. Install the timing chains and sprockets. Refer to procedure in this article.
CHAIN AND SPROCKETS-TIMING
REMOVAL
TIMING CHAIN AND SPROCKETS
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Fig. 185: Camshaft Sprocket V6 Marks, (#1 TDC Exhaust Stroke)


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Fig. 186: Engine Top Dead Center



3. Remove right and left cylinder head covers. See REMOVAL.
4. Remove radiator fan shroud. Refer to REMOVAL .
5. Rotate engine until timing mark on crankshaft damper (2) aligns with TDC mark on timing chain cover
(2) and the camshaft sprocket "V6" marks are at the 12 o'clock position (No. 1 TDC exhaust stroke). See
Fig. 185 and Fig. 186.
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Fig. 187: Cylinder Head Access Plugs


6. Remove power steering pump. Refer to REMOVAL .

7. Remove access plug from left and right cylinder heads for access to chain guide fasteners. See Fig. 187.
8. Remove the oil fill housing to gain access to the right side tensioner arm fastener.
9. Remove crankshaft damper. See REMOVAL, and timing chain cover REMOVAL).
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Fig. 188: Camshaft Position Sensor, Cylinder Head & Screw

1 - CYLINDER HEAD
2 - CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
3 - SCREW
10. Collapse and pin primary chain tensioner.
CAUTION: Plate behind left secondary chain tensioner could fall into oil pan.
Therefore, cover pan opening.
11. Remove secondary chain tensioners.
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12. Remove camshaft position sensor (2). See Fig. 188.

1 - Camshaft hole
CAUTION: Care should be taken not to damage camshaft target wheel. Do not
hold target wheel while loosening or tightening camshaft sprocket.
Do not place the target wheel near a magnetic source of any kind. A
damaged or magnetized target wheel could cause a vehicle no start
condition.
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CAUTION: Do not forcefully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft independently of

each other. Damaging intake valve to piston contact will occur.
Ensure negative battery cable is disconnected to guard against
accidental starter engagement.
13. Remove left and right camshaft sprocket bolts.

14. While holding the left camshaft steel tube with Camshaft Holder 8428. See Fig. 189 (2), remove the left
camshaft sprocket. Slowly rotate the camshaft approximately 5 degrees clockwise to a neutral position.
15. While holding the right camshaft steel tube with Camshaft Holder 8428 (2), remove the right camshaft
sprocket.
16. Remove idler sprocket assembly bolt.
17. Slide the idler sprocket assembly and crank sprocket forward simultaneously to remove the primary and
secondary chains.
18. Remove both pivoting tensioner arms and chain guides.
19. Remove primary chain tensioner.
INSPECTION
Inspect the following components:
Sprockets for excessive tooth wear. Some tooth markings are normal and not a cause for sprocket
replacement.
Idler sprocket assembly bushing and shaft for excessive wear.
Idler sprocket assembly spline joint. The joint should be tight with no backlash or axial movement.
Chain guides and tensioner arms. Replace these parts if grooving in plastic face is more than 1 mm (0.039
in.) deep. If plastic face is severely grooved or melted, the tensioner lube jet may be clogged. The
tensioner should be replaced.
Secondary chain tensioner piston and ratcheting device. Inspect for evidence of heavy contact between
tensioner piston and tensioner arm. If this condition exist the tensioner arm and chain should be replaced.
Primary chain tensioner plastic faces. Replace as required.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 190: Resetting Secondary Chain Tensioners

1 - VISE
2 - TENSIONER BODY
3 - INSERT LOCK PIN
4 - RATCHET
5 - PISTON
1. Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary chain tensioner piston (5) until the piston step is flush with
the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool, release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against spring
force through access hole on side of tensioner. While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet device to
approximately 2 mm from the tensioner body. Install Tensioner pin 8514 (3) into hole on front of
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tensioner. Slowly open vise (1) to transfer piston spring force to lock pin. See Fig. 190.
2. Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner bracket.
Tighten bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
Fig. 191: Identifying Crankshaft Gear, Primary Chain Idler Sprocket & Special Tool

2 - PRIMARY CHAIN IDLER SPROCKET
3. Install right side chain tensioner arm. Install Torx® bolt. Tighten Torx® bolt to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: The silver bolts retain the guides to the cylinder heads and the black
bolts retain the guides to the engine block.
4. Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
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5. Install left side chain tensioner arm, and Torx® bolt. Tighten Torx® bolt to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
6. Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
7. Install both secondary chains onto the idler sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary chains to be
visible through the two lower openings on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once the
secondary timing chains are installed, position the Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder 8429 (1) to hold
chains in place for installation. See Fig. 191.
8. Align primary chain double plated links with the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket. Align
the primary chain single plated link with the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket.
9. Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean engine oil.
Fig. 192: Counterbalance Shaft Alignment Marks

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1 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT GEAR

2 - TIMING MARK
3 - IDLER SPROCKET GEAR
NOTE: The idler sprocket must be timed to the counterbalance shaft drive gear
before the idler sprocket is fully seated.
10. Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and idler sprocket as an assembly. After guiding both secondary
chains through the block and cylinder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap or equivalent. This
will maintain tension on chains to aid in installation. Align the timing mark (2) on the idler sprocket gear
(3) to the timing mark on the counterbalance shaft drive gear (1), then seat idler sprocket fully. Before
installing idler sprocket bolt, lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket assembly retaining bolt
to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.). See Fig. 192.

NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate camshafts for sprocket installation.
11. Align left camshaft sprocket "L" dot to plated link on chain.
12. Align right camshaft sprocket "R" dot to plated link on chain. See Fig. 193.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so
can result in over-torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
13. Remove Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder 8429, then attach both sprockets to camshafts. Remove
excess oil from bolts, then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
14. Verify that all plated links are aligned with the marks on all sprockets and the "V6" marks on camshaft
sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position.
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Fig. 194: Tightening Left Side Camshaft Sprocket Bolt

1 - TORQUE WRENCH
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WITH ADAPTER
PINS 8346
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Fig. 195: Tightening Right Side Camshaft Sprocket Bolt

1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346
3 - LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
4 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
CAUTION: Ensure the plate between the left secondary chain tensioner and
block is correctly installed.
15. Install both secondary chain tensioners. Tighten bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
NOTE: Left and right secondary chain tensioners are not common.
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16. Remove all 3 locking pins from tensioners.
CAUTION: After pulling locking pins out of each tensioner, DO NOT manually
extend the tensioner(s) ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains,
resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads.
17. Using Spanner Wrench 6958 with Adaptor Pins 8346, (4) tighten left and right. See Fig. 194 and Fig. 195
camshaft sprocket bolts to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.)
18. Rotate engine two full revolutions. Verify timing marks are at the follow locations:
Primary chain idler sprocket dot is at 12 o'clock
Primary chain crankshaft sprocket dot is at 6 o'clock
Secondary chain camshaft sprockets "V6" marks are at 12 o'clock
Counterbalancer shaft drive gear dot is aligned to the idler sprocket gear dot
19. Lubricate all three chains with engine oil.
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Fig. 196: Measuring Idler Gear End Play

1 - IDLER SPROCKET ASSEMBLY

2 - DIAL INDICATOR
20. After installing all chains, it is recommended that the idler gear end play be checked. The end play must
be within 0.10 - 0.25 mm (0.004 - 0.010 in.). If not within specification, the idler gear must be replaced.
See Fig. 196.
21. Install timing chain cover and crankshaft damper. Refer to procedures.
22. Install cylinder head covers. See INSTALLATION).
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NOTE: Before installing threaded plug in right cylinder head, the plug must be
coated with sealant to prevent leaks.
23. Coat the large threaded access plug with Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon , then install into the
right cylinder head (1) and tighten to 81 N.m (60 ft. lbs.). See Fig. 197.
24. Install the oil fill housing.
25. Install access plug in left cylinder head (2).
26. Install power steering pump. Refer to INSTALLATION .
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2007 ENGINE
4.0L - Service Information - Nitro
DESCRIPTION
4.0L ENGINE
Fig. 1: 4.0L ENGINE

The 4.0L Liter (244 Cubic Inches) 60° V-6 engine is a single overhead camshaft design with hydraulic lifters
and four valves per cylinder The engine does not have provisions for a free wheeling valve train. See Fig. 1.
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Fig. 2: Cylinder Numbering & Firing Order

The cylinders are numbered from front to rear, with the right bank odd numbered, and the left bank even
numbered The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6. See Fig. 2.
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Fig. 3: Engine Identification

1 - REAR OF LEFT CYLINDER HEAD

2 - ENGINE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER
The engine identification number (2) is located on the rear of engine block just below the left cylinder head (1).
See Fig. 3.

INTRODUCTION
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Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by routine
maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either mechanical (e.g, a strange noise), or performance (e.g, engine
idles rough and stalls).
Refer to ENGINE MECHANICAL and ENGINE PERFORMANCE for possible causes and corrections of
malfunctions. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM for the fuel system diagnosis.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be necessary for specific engine malfunctions that cannot be
isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts. Information concerning additional tests and diagnosis is provided
within the following:
Cylinder Compression Pressure Test

Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis
Lash Adjuster (Tappet) Noise Diagnosis
Engine Oil Leak Inspection
ENGINE MECHANICAL

NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in 1. Check and correct engine oil
crankcase. level.
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil to correct viscosity.
3. Thick oil 3. (a.) Change oil and filter.
(b.) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c.) Change oil and filter again.
4. Low oil pressure. 4. Check and correct engine oil
level.
5. Dirt in tappets/lash adjusters. 5. Replace rocker arm/hydraulic
lash adjuster assembly.
6. Worn rocker arms. 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker
arms.
7. Worn tappets/lash adjusters. 7. Install new rocker
arm/hydraulic lash adjuster
assembly.
8. Worn valve guides. 8. Replace cylinder head(s).
9. Excessive runout of valve seats 9. Grind valve seats and valves.
on valve faces.
10. Missing adjuster pivot. 10. Replace rocker arm/hydraulic
lash adjuster assembly.
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CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect
oil pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thick/Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
- 3. (a.) Change oil and filter.
temperature.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary.
5. Connecting rod journal out-of- 5. Replace crankshaft or grind
round. surface.
6. Misaligned connecting rods. 6. Replace bent connecting rods.
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect
oil pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thick/Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
- 3. (a.) Change oil and filter.
temperature.
clearance. Repair as necessary.
5. Excessive end play. 5. Check thrust bearing for wear
on flanges.
6. Crankshaft journal out-of-round 6. Replace crankshaft or grind
or worn. journals.
7. Loose flywheel or torque 7. Tighten to correct torque.
converter.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Install new sending unit.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check sending unit and main
bearing oil clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Install new oil filter.
5. Worn parts in oil pump. 5. Replace worn parts or pump.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil to correct viscosity.
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 7. Remove valve and inspect,
clean, or replace.
8. Oil pump suction tube loose. 8. Remove oil pan and install new
tube or clean, if necessary.
9. Oil pump cover warped or 9. Install new oil pump.
cracked.
clearance.
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OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated 1. Replace gasket(s).

gaskets.
2. Loose fastener, broken or 2. Tighten, repair or replace the
porous metal part. part.
3. Misaligned or deteriorated cup 3. Replace as necessary.
or threaded plug.
OIL CONSUMPTION OR 1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check system and repair as
SPARK PLUGS FOULED necessary. (Refer to Appropriate
Diagnostic Information)
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install
new rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots. 3. Clean pistons and install new
rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in 4. Remove rings and check
grooves. grooves. If groove is not proper
width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s). 5. Replace cylinder head(s).
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or 6. Replace seal(s).
damaged.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).

Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the pressure cap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
3. Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
5. Remove the oil filler cap.
6. Remove the air cleaner.
7. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should
maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum, with 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
8. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While
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testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening.
Check for bubbles in the coolant.
9. All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage per cylinder.
10. FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be
maintained in the cylinder.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise
the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
1. Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.

2. Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Select a route free from traffic and
other forms of congestion, observe all traffic laws, and accelerate through the gears several times briskly.
3. Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnormal
firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cylinder number of spark plug for future reference.
4. Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from the PDC.
5. Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the compression check.
6. Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool 8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0-500 psi (Blue) pressure transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable
adaptors to the DRBIII®. For Special Tool identification, see SPECIAL TOOLS.
7. Crank engine until maximum pressure is reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylinder pressure.
8. Repeat the previous step for all remaining cylinders.
9. Compression should not be less than 689 kPa (100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder
to cylinder.
10. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
11. If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the second compression test, it
could indicate the existence of a problem in the cylinder in question. The recommended compression
pressures are to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine should not be
disassembled to determine the cause of low compression unless some malfunction is present.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE

ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery. 1. Test battery. Charge or replace
as necessary. Refer to
DESCRIPTION .
2. Corroded or loose battery 2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. Test starting system. Refer to
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .

4. Faulty coil(s) or control unit. 4. Test and replace as needed.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. Check and adjust gap as needed.
6. Contamination in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump. 7. Test fuel pump and replace as
needed. (Refer to Appropriate
8. Incorrect engine timing. 8. Check for a skipped timing belt
or a loose camshaft sprocket.
ENGINE STALLS OR IDLES 1. Idle speed too low. 1. Test minimum air flow. (Refer
ROUGH to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
2. Incorrect fuel mixture. 2. (Refer to Appropriate
3. Intake manifold leakage. 3. Inspect intake manifold gasket,
manifold, and vacuum hoses.
4. Faulty coil(s). 4. Test and replace as necessary.
Information)
ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped 1. Set gap as needed or replace
plugs. plug(s).
filter.
3. Faulty fuel pump. 3. Test and replace as necessary.
Information)
4. Incorrect valve timing. 4. Correct valve timing as needed.
5. Leaking cylinder head gasket. 5. Replace cylinder head gasket.
6. Low compression. 6. Test compression of each
cylinder.
7. Burned, warped, or pitted 7. Replace valves.
valves.
8. Plugged or restricted exhaust 8. Check exhaust system
system. restriction. Replace parts, as
necessary.
Information)
ENGINE MISSES ON 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped 1. Set gap as needed or replace
ACCELERATION spark plugs. plug(s).
2. Contamination in Fuel System. 2. Clean fuel system and replace
fuel filter.
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3. Burned, warped, or pitted 3. Replace valves.

valves.
Information)
ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH 1. Dirty or incorrect spark plug 1. Set gap as needed or replace
SPEED gap. plug(s).
Information)
3. Dirty fuel injector(s). 3. Test and replace as necessary.
Information)
filter.
ENGINE OIL LEAK INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil
leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell,
temporarily stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil level indicator to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as
indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil
leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair as necessary.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat
inspection.
5. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time , proceed with the AIR LEAK
DETECTION TEST METHOD as follows:
Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on
the cover.
Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the oil level indicator tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kpa (3
PSI) of test pressure.
Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applying soapy water at the
suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provides the best bubbles
which will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service
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information procedures.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply. Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the PCV
valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed to next step.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds
approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the oil level indicator tube to block location; remove
the tube, clean and reseal using Mopar® Stud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes, remove tube and replace the O-
ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
 Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup plug,
bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for these
items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as described in step 5 under ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION.

remove minor nicks and scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is
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7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, replace component(s)
as necessary.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when
applying form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-place gasket
material unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can
result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A
continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar® Engine
RTV GEN II, Mopar® ATF-RTV, and Mopar® Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties
and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPAR® ENGINE RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a
specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to
engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has
a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the
expiration date before use.
MOPAR® ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing
properties to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This
material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not
properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR® GASKET MAKER is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPAR® BED PLATE SEALANT is a unique (green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that is
specially made to seal the area between the bedplate and cylinder block without disturbing the bearing clearance
or alignment of these components. The material cures slowly in the absence of air when torqued between two
metallic surfaces, and will rapidly cure when heat is applied.
MOPAR® GASKET SEALANT is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined
parts under all temperatures. This material is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS) cylinder head
gaskets. This material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar® Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or
4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
SEALER APPLICATION
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Mopar® Gasket Maker material should be applied sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant to one
gasket surface. Be certain the material surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can easily be wiped off.
Components should be torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel is recommended during
assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.
Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a 3.17 or
6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant may be removed
with a shop towel. Components should be torqued in place while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10
minutes). The usage of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing material off the
location.
Mopar® Gasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely over
both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a can
w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be used on
engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
REPAIR OF DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (excluding spark plug and camshaft bearing cap attaching threads) can be repaired.
Essentially, this repair consists of drilling out worn or damaged threads, tapping the hole with a special Heli-
Coil Tap, (or equivalent) and installing an insert into the tapped hole. This brings the hole back to its original
thread size.
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain the original center line.
Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available from automotive parts jobbers.
ENGINE CORE AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS
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Fig. 4: Removing Core Hole Plug

1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
Using a blunt tool such as a drift (3) and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the cup plug (5). With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers (2) or other suitable tool and remove plug (5). See Fig. 4
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as restricted cooling can result and
cause serious engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylinder block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer. Lightly coat
inside of cup plug hole with Mopar® Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug is cleaned of all oil
or grease. Using proper drive plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of the plug is at least 0.5 mm
(0.020 in.) inside the lead-in chamfer.
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It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant. The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle placed in
service immediately.
ENGINE GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION

1 - ABRASIVE PAD
2 - 3M ROLOC™ BRISTLE DISC
Never use the following to clean gasket surfaces:

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Metal scraper
Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block and head
High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a wire brush. See Fig. 5
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:
Solvent or a commercially available gasket remover

Plastic or wood scraper. See Fig. 5
Drill motor with 3M Roloc™ Bristle Disc (white or yellow). See Fig. 5
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond the recommended speed), can
damage the sealing surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is
recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80 grit) bristle disc may
be used on cast iron surfaces with care.
HYDROSTATIC LOCKED ENGINE
When an engine is suspected to be hydrostatically locked, regardless of what caused the problem, the following
steps should be used.
CAUTION: DO NOT use starter motor to rotate the engine, severe damage may occur.
1. Inspect air cleaner, induction system and intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of foreign
material.
2. Remove negative battery cable.
3. Place a shop towel around the spark plugs when removing them from the engine. This will catch any fluid
that may possibly be in the cylinder under pressure.
4. With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
5. Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e, coolant, fuel, oil or other).
6. Make sure all fluid has been removed from the cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e, connecting rods,
pistons, valves, etc.)
7. Repair engine or components as necessary to prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil into the cylinders, rotate
engine to lubricate the cylinder walls to prevent damage on restart.
8. Install new spark plugs.

9. Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
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10. Install a new oil filter.

11. Fill engine with specified amount of approved oil.
12. Connect negative battery cable.
13. Start engine and check for any leaks.
REMOVAL
ENGINE ASSEMBLY-REMOVAL
Fig. 6: Disconnecting Negative Battery Cable

1. Perform the fuel pressure release procedure. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .

2. Disconnect negative battery cable (2).
3. Evacuate the air conditioning system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
4. Remove the hood.
Fig. 7: Disconnecting Lower Radiator Hose

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5. Drain the cooling system (Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE ).

6. Disconnect the lower radiator hose.
7. Disconnect the generator electrical connectors (2) (Refer to REMOVAL ).
Fig. 8: Removing Starter Wiring

8. Remove the starter wiring (2).
Fig. 9: Removing Starter And Spacer Plate

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9. Remove the starter (1) and spacer plate (Refer to REMOVAL ).
Fig. 10: Removing A/C Lines

10. Remove the A/C lines (1,3).
Fig. 11: Engine Oil Cooler, Coolant Hose, Filter & Lower Radiator Hose
11. Disconnect the oil cooler hose (3) at the oil cooler.
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Fig. 12: Removing/Installing Oil Cooler & Coolant Hoses

12. Disconnect the oil cooler hose (2) at the oil cooler.
Fig. 13: Ground Strap & Transmission Housing Bolts

13. Disconnect the ground strap (1) at the right transmission housing.
14. Disconnect the engine block heater wiring connector and set aside (if equipped).
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Fig. 14: CKP/Oxygen Sensors

15. Remove the crankshaft position sensor (2) (Refer to REMOVAL ).
Fig. 15: Removing/Installing Exhaust Pipe

16. Disconnect the left oxygen sensor electrical connector and separate the exhaust manifold from the left
exhaust pipe (1).
17. Disconnect the right oxygen senor electrical connector and separate the exhaust manifold from the right
exhaust pipe (2).
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Fig. 16: Flex Plate Inspection Cover & Fastener

18. Remove the flex plate access plate (1).
Fig. 17: Removing P/S Pump

19. Remove the P/S pump (2).
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Fig. 18: Removing/Installing Torque Converter Bolts

20. Remove the torque converter bolts (2).

21. Remove the transmission housing to engine mounting bolts (2).
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Fig. 20: Removing/Installing Engine Mounting To Frame Fasteners

22. Remove the engine mounting to frame fasteners (1).

23. Remove the upper intake manifold (Refer to REMOVAL ).
24. Disconnect the heater hose.
Fig. 21: Disconnecting Coolant Temperature, Cam Position & Oil Pressure Sensor Electrical
Connectors
25. Disconnect the coolant temperature, cam position (1), oil pressure sensor electrical connectors.
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Fig. 22: Ignition Coils

1 - Electrical Connector
2 - Mounting Bolt
3 - Coil
26. Disconnect the left ignition coil (1) and fuel injector harness connectors and position the wiring harness
aside.
27. Remove the right intake manifold support braces.
28. Disconnect the capacitor and ground strap from the right cylinder head cover.

2 - Mounting Bolt
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3 - Coil
29. Disconnect the oxygen sensor, knock, EGR, injector and ignition coil harness connectors (1) and position
the wiring harness aside.
30. Disconnect the engine wiring harness from the transmission housing and remove the remaining
transmission housing bolts.
Fig. 24: Connecting Engine Lifting Bracket From Special Tool Kit 8534B To Right Rear Of
Cylinder Head Outer Most Bolt Access Hole
1 - LIFTING CHAIN
2 - ENGINE LIFTING BRACKET #8534
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3 - CAM POSITION SENSOR

4 - EGR VALVE
5 - BOLTS
6 - COOLANT PIPE
31. Connect the engine lifting bracket (2) from special tool kit 8534B to the right rear of the cylinder head
outer most bolt access hole (5). See Fig. 24.
32. Install a bolt into the inner most bolt access hole (5) next to the engine lift bracket to assure lifting bracket
positioning.
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Fig. 25: Connecting Engine Hoisting Chain To Left Timing Chain Cover Engine Lifting Point And
Engine Lift Bracket
1 - LIFTING CHAIN
2 - UPPER TIMING CHAIN COVER
3 - POWER STEERING PUMP
4 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
33. Connect a engine hoisting chain (1) to the left timing chain cover (2) engine lifting point and engine lift
bracket. See Fig. 25.
CAUTION: While slowly separating the engine from the vehicle, constant checks
must be made to assure proper positioning and that no damage to
other components or wiring harnesses occur during separation.
34. Carefully remove the engine from the engine bay area.
INSTALLATION
ENGINE ASSEMBLY-INSTALLATION
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Fig. 26: Connecting Engine Lifting Bracket From Special Tool Kit 8534B To Right Rear Of Cylinder
Head Outer Most Bolt Access Hole
1 - LIFTING CHAIN
2 - ENGINE LIFTING BRACKET #8534
3 - CAM POSITION SENSOR
4 - EGR VALVE
5 - BOLTS
6 - COOLANT PIPE
1. Install special tool #8534 B, engine lifting bracket (2) to the right rear of the cylinder head and install a
bolt into the inner most bolt hole (5) next to the bracket (5). See Fig. 26.
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Fig. 27: Connecting Engine Hoisting Chain To Left Timing Chain Cover Engine Lifting Point And
Engine Lift Bracket
1 - LIFTING CHAIN
2 - UPPER TIMING CHAIN COVER
2. Connect a engine hoisting chain (1) to the left timing chain cover (2) lifting point and the engine lifting
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bracket. See Fig. 27.

3. Carefully install the engine into the engine bay area and complete the union with the transmission.

4. Properly route the engine wiring harness behind the engine and tighten the accessible transmission bolts
to 68 N.m (50 ft.lbs.).
5. Connect the ground strap (1) at the transmission housing.
6. Install the remaining transmission housing bolts (2) and tighten to 68 N.m (50 ft.lbs.).
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Fig. 29: Removing/Installing Engine Mounting To Frame Fasteners

7. Install the engine mounting fasteners (1) and tighten to 101 N.m (75 lbs.ft.).

2 - Mounting Bolt
3 - Coil
8. Properly position the right engine harness and connect the oxygen sensor, knock sensor, EGR, fuel
injector and ignition coil harness connectors (1).
9. Connect the capacitor (3) and ground strap (3) to the right cylinder head cover.
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10. Properly position the left engine harness and fuel injector harness connectors.
Fig. 31: Connecting Coolant Temperature, Cam Position & Oil Pressure Sensor Harness
Connectors
11. Connect the coolant temperature, cam position (1), oil pressure sensor harness connectors.
12. Connect the oxygen sensor, and the ground wire, to the cylinder head cover.
Fig. 32: Removing/Installing Torque Converter Bolts

13. Install the torque converter bolts (2). Tighten bolts to 75 N.m (55 lbs.ft.).
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14. Connect the heater hose.

15. Install the right intake manifold support braces.

16. Install the torque converter inspection plate (1). Tighten bolts to 12 N.m (105 lbs. in.)
17. Install the upper intake manifold (Refer to INSTALLATION ).
18. Connect the upper radiator hose.

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19. Install the crankshaft position sensor (2) (Refer to INSTALLATION ).

20. Connect the engine block heater (if equipped).

21. Connect the oil cooler hose (2) at the cooler.
22. Connect the oil cooler hose (3) at the cooler.

23. Connect the lower radiator hose (5).
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Fig. 37: Installing Starter And Spacer Plate

24. Install new oil filter.

25. Install the starter (1) and spacer plate (Refer to INSTALLATION ).

26. Connect the left (1) and right exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold (2).
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27. Connect the oxygen sensors (1).
Fig. 40: Connecting Generator Electrical Connectors

28. Connect the generator electrical connectors (2) (Refer to INSTALLATION ).

29. Fill the cooling system to the proper level using the appropriate coolant.
30. Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to correct level (Refer to FLUID TYPES ).
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Fig. 41: Installing P/S Pump

31. Install the P/S pump (2).
Fig. 42: Installing A/C Lines

32. Install the A/C lines (1,3).

33. Evacuate and recharge air conditioning.
34. Install the hood.
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Fig. 43: Removing Battery Cable

35. Connect the negative battery cable (2).

36. Start engine and run until operating temperature is reached.
37. Check all fluid levels and properly fill.
SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N.m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt Right Side 102 +1/4 75 +1/4 -
Turn Turn
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt Left Side 102 +1/4 75 +1/4 -
Turn Turn
Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolts 28 - 250
Connecting Rod Cap Bolts 27 +1/4 20 +1/4 -
Turn Turn
Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap - - -
Inner Main Cap Bolts 20 +1/4 15 +1/4 -
Turn Turn
Outer Main Cap Bolts 27 +1/4 20 +1/4 -
Turn Turn
Tie Bolts (Horizontal) 28 - 250
Crankshaft Damper-Bolt 95 70 -
Cylinder Head Bolts* - - -
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Step 1 61 45 -
Step 2 88 65 -
Step 3 88 65 -
Step 4 +1/4 Turn +1/4 Turn -
*Refer to procedure for tightening sequence. See INSTALLATION.
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts 10 - 90
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolts 28 - 250
Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Bolts 12 - 105
Flex plate to Crankshaft 95 70 -
Flex plate to Torque Converter 75 55 -
Intake Manifold - Lower 28 - 250
Intake Manifold - Upper 12 - 105
Left Engine Mount to Cradle 75 55 -
Oil Cooler Connector Bolt 54 40 -
Oil Pan - - -
M6 Bolts 12 - 105
M8 Bolts 28 - 250
Oil Pan Drain Plug 27 20 -
Oil Filter 16 12 -
M8 Oil Pump to Block Bolts 28 - 250
M6 Oil Pump Cover Bolts 12 - 105
Oil Pump Pick Up Tube Bolt 28 - 250
Windage Tray 28 + 90° 20 + 90° -
Crankshaft Rear Seal Retainer 12 - 105
Right Engine Mount to Cradle 75 55 -
Rocker Shaft Pedestal Retaining Bolts 31 - 275
Spark Plugs 28 20 -
Timing Belt Tensioner Bolts 28 - 250
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Assembly Bolt 61 45 -
Timing Belt Cover - - -
M6 Bolts 12 - 105
M8 Bolts 28 - 250
M10 Bolts 54 40 -
Upper Engine Mount to Frame Rail 68 50 -
Upper Engine Mount to timing Cover 54 40 -
4.0L ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS
Type 60° SOHC V-6 24-Valve
Displacement 4.0L
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Firing Order 1-2-3-4-5-6

Compression Ratio 10:2:1
Lead Cylinder #1 Right Bank
Metric Standard
Displacement 4.0L Liters 244 cu. in.
Bore 96.0 mm 3.780 in.
Stroke 91.0 mm 3.583 in.
CYLINDER BLOCK
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATIONS
Metric Standard
Cylinder Bore Diameter 96.0 mm ± 0.0076 3.780 in. ± 0.0003 in.
Out-of-Round (Max.) 0.006 mm 0.00023 in.
Taper (Max.) 0.051 mm 0.002 in.
PISTONS
Metric Standard
Material Type Aluminum (Full Floating Pins)
Piston Diameter 95.98 mm ± 0.019 mm 3.7788 in. ± 0.0008 in.
Clearance at Size Location -0.007 to +0.047 mm -0.003 to +0.0018 in.
Piston Weight - A 374.4-379.4 grams 13.21-13.38 oz.
Piston Weight - B 379.5-384.4 grams 13.38-13.56 oz.
Piston Ring Groove Diameter #1 87.4-87.6 mm 3.441-3.449 in.
PISTON PINS
Metric Standard
Type Full Floating
Clearance in Piston 0.005-0.015 mm 0.002-0.0006 in.
Clearance in Rod 0.007-0.018 mm 0.0003-0.007 in.
Diameter 21.997-22.000 mm 0.8662-0.8660 in.
PISTON RINGS
Metric Standard
Ring Gap-Top Compression Ring 0.20-0.36 mm 0.008-0.014 in.
Ring Gap-2nd Compression Ring 0.20-0.40 mm 0.0078-0.0157 in.
(Micro-Napier
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Ring Gap-Oil Control (Steel Rails) 0.25-0.76 mm 0.010-0.030 in.
PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE

Metric Standard
Top and Second Compression 0.04-0.08 mm 0.0016-0.0031 in.
Ring
Oil Ring (Steel Rails 0.038-0.184 mm 0.0015-0.0073 in.
PISTON RING WIDTH

Metric Standard
Top Compression Ring 1.17-1.20 mm 0.0461-0.0472 in.
2nd Compression Ring (Micro- 1.47-1.49 mm 0.058-0.059 in.
Napier
Oil Control (Steel Rails) 0.435-0.490 mm 0.0171-0.0193 in.
CONNECTING RODS
Metric Standard
Bearing Clearance 0.035-0.073 mm 0.0013-0.0028 in.
Piston Pin Bore Diameter 22.005-22.012 mm 0.8663-0.8666 in.
Side Clearance (MAX) 0.39 mm 0.0153 in.
Total Weight (Less Bearing) 693 grams 24.445 oz.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING JOURNALS

Metric Standard
Diameter 68.987-69.013 mm 2.519-2.520 in.
Main Bearing Diametrical Clearance 0.032-0.062 mm 0.0013-0.0024 in.
Bearing Clearance (Wear Limit) 0.072 mm 0.0028 in.
Out-of-Round (MAX) 0.008 mm 0.0003 in.
Diametrical Taper (MAX) 0.010 mm 0.0004 in.
End Play 0.048-0.260 mm 0.002-0.010 in.
CONNECTING ROD JOURNALS

Metric Standard
Diameter 57.982-58.002 mm 2.282-2.283 in.
Bearing Diametrical Clearance 0.035-0.073 mm 0.0014-0.0029 in.
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Bearing Clearance (Wear Limit) 0.080 mm 0.003 in.

Out-of-Round (MAX) 0.008 mm 0.0003 in.
Diametrical Taper (MAX) 0.010 mm 0.0004 in.
CAMSHAFT
Metric Standard
Bore Diameter 43.038-43.059 mm 1.6944-1.6953 in.
Diametrical Clearance 0.078-0.12 mm 0.003-0.0047 in.
Diametrical Clearance (MAX) 0.15 mm 0.0059 in.
Bearing Journal Diameter 42.939-42.960 mm 1.6905-1.6913 in.
End Play 0.05-0.51 mm 0.002-0.020 in.
VALVE TIMING-INTAKE VALVE

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATIONS (CRANKSHAFT
DEGREES)
Opens 4° BTDC (A) - 1° ATDC (B)
Closes (ABDC) 60° (A) - 65° (B)
Duration 244°
Centerline 118° (A) - 123° (B)
VALVE TIMING-EXHAUST VALVE

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATIONS (CRANKSHAFT
DEGREES)
Opens (BBDC) 61°
Closes (ATDC) 21°
Duration 262°
Centerline 110°
CYLINDER HEAD
Metric Standard
Gasket Thickness (Compressed) 1.50 mm 0.059 in.
Valve Seat Angle (From 45-45.5°
Horizontal)
Valve Seat Runout (MAX) 0.051 mm 0.002 in.
Valve Seat Width-Intake 0.8-1.2 mm 0.031-0.067 in.
Valve Seat Width-Exhaust 1.3-1.7 mm 0.05-0.067 in.
Guide Bore Diameter (Std.) 6.975-7.00 mm 0.2746-0.2756 in.
Valve Guide Height * 9.5-10.5 mm 0.3740-0.4134 in.
* Measured from cylinder head surface
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VALVES
Metric Standard
Face Angle (From Horizontal) 44.5°-45°
Head Diameter-Intake 36.37-36.63 mm 1.4319-14421 in.
Head Diameter-Exhaust 28.87-29.13 mm 1.1366-1.1469 in.
Length-Intake (Overall) 114.41-114.99 mm 4.5043-4.5272 in.
Length-Exhaust (Overall) 126.17-126.75 mm 4.9673-4.9902 in.
Stem Diameter-Intake 6.935-6.953 mm 0.2730-0.2737 in.
Stem Diameter-Exhaust 6.906-6.924 mm 0.2719-0.2726 in.
Stem-to-Guide Clearance-Intake 0.022-0.065 mm 0.0009-0.0026 in.
Stem-to-Guide Clearance-Intake 0.29 mm 0.0114 in.
(MAX.) Rocking Method
Stem-to-Guide Clearance-Exhaust 0.051-0.094 mm 0.002-0.0037 in.
Stem-to-Guide Clearance-Intake 0.370 mm 0.0146 in.
(MAX.) Rocking Method
Valve Lift-Intake (Zero Lash) 9.00 mm 0.3543 in.
Valve Lift-Exhaust (Zero Lash) 7.00 mm 0.2756 in.
Valve Margin-Intake 0.835-1.165 mm 0.0329-0.0459 in.
Valve Margin-Exhaust 1.44-1.77 mm 0.0567-0.0697 in.
Valve Stem Tip Height-Intake 42.366-43.655 mm 1.6680-1.7187 in.
Valve Stem Tip Height-Exhaust 45.205-46.486 mm 1.780-1.8305 in.
VALVE SPRINGS
Metric Standard
Free Length-Intake (Approx.) 43.6 mm 1.7165 in.
Free Length-Exhaust- (Approx.) 47.9 mm 1.8858 in.
Spring Force-Intake (Valve 309-358 N @ 38.0 mm 69.5-80.5 lbs. @ 1.4961 in.
Closed)
Spring Force-Exhaust (Valve 355.4-400.8 N @ 38.0 mm 79.9-90.1 lbs. @ 1.496 in.
Closed)
Spring Force-Exhaust (Valve 646.5-714.5 N @ 31.0 mm 145.3-160.7 lbs. @ 1.2205 in.
Open)
Spring Force-Intake (Valve Open) 871.1-943.7 N @ 29.0 mm 195.8-212.2 lbs. @ 1.1417 in.
Number of Coils-Intake 6.5
Number of Coils-Exhaust 7.5
Color of Spring (Top of Coils)- GREY
Intake-Right Hand Coil Direction
Color of Spring (Top of Coils)- BLUE
Exhaust-Left Hand Coil Direction
Wire Diameter-Intake 4.29-4.35 mm 0.1547-0.1570 in.
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Wire Diameter-Exhaust 3.93-3.99 mm 0.1547-0.1570 in.

Spring Installed Height * 38.0 mm 1.4961 in.
* Spring Seat to Bottom Retainer-Intake and Exhaust
OIL PUMP
Metric Standard
Clearance Over Rotors 0.077 mm 0.003 in.
Cover-Out-of-Flat (MAX.) 0.025 mm 0.001 in.
Inner and Outer Rotor Thickness 14.300 mm 0.563 in.
(MIN.)
Inner and Outer Rotor Thickness
14.325 mm 0.564 in.
(MAX.)
Clearance between Outer Rotor 0.39 mm 0.015 in.
and Body
Outer Rotor Diameter (MIN.) 79.997 mm 3.149 in.
Outer Rotor Diameter (MAX.) 80.074 mm 3.153 in.
Tip Clearance Between Rotors 0.20 mm 0.008 in.
(MAX.)
OIL PRESSURE
NOTE: At Normal Operating Temperatures
Pressure @ Curb Idle Speed * 34.47 kPa Min. (5 PSI MIN.)
Pressure @ 3000 RPM 300-724 kPa (45-105 PSI.)
*CAUTION: If pressure is zero at curb idle, DO NOT run engine at 3000 RPM.
SPECIAL TOOLS
4.0L ENGINE
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Fig. 44: Puller 1023

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Fig. 45: Connecting Rod Installation Guides 8189

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Fig. 46: Puller 8454

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Fig. 47: Vibration Damper Remover Insert 9020 - Crank Sprocket Remover Insert C4685-C2
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Fig. 48: Damper Holding Fixture 9365

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Fig. 49: Camshaft Seal Installer MD-998306

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Fig. 50: Crankshaft Damper Installer Bolt C-4685-C1

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Fig. 51: Crankshaft Damper Installer 6792-1

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Fig. 52: Gear Puller L-4407A

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Fig. 53: Front Crankshaft Seal Remover 6341A

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Fig. 54: Driver 6342

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Fig. 55: Crankshaft Seal Protector 6780-2

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Fig. 57: Valve Spring Compressor C-3422-D

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Fig. 58: Spring Compressor Adapter 6526

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Fig. 59: Valve Spring Tester C-647

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Fig. 60: Valve Spring Compressor MD998772A

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Fig. 61: Valve Spring Adapter 6527

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Fig. 62: Indicator, Cylinder Bore C-119

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Fig. 63: Crankshaft Main Bearing Remover C-3059

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Fig. 64: Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Installer 6926

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Fig. 65: Crankshaft Real Seal Retainer Alignment Fixture 8225

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Fig. 66: Release Probe 8351

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Fig. 67: Cylinder Compression Pressure Adaptor 8116

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Fig. 68: Pressure Tester Kit 7700

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Fig. 69: Bloc-Chek-Kit C-3685-A

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Fig. 70: Driveline Support Fixture 8534B

AIR INTAKE SYSTEM

ELEMENT-AIR CLEANER
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 71: Air Cleaner Housing Cover, CCV Hose, Locking Tab & Air Inlet Duct To Throttle Body
1 - AIR INLET DUCT TO THROTTLE BODY

2 - AIR CLEANER HOUSING COVER
3 - LOCKING TABS
4 - CCV HOSE
1. Disconnect the CCV hose (4) at the housing cover (2). See Fig. 71.
2. Release the housing cover tabs (3). See Fig. 71
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Fig. 72: Air Cleaner Cover, Element & CCV Hose

1 - AIR CLEANER COVER

2 - ELEMENT
3 - CCV HOSE
3. Lift the cover (1) and pull toward the front of the vehicle to release the rear cover to housing alignment
tabs. See Fig. 72.
4. Remove the element (2).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 73: Air Cleaner Cover, Element & CCV Hose

1 - AIR CLEANER COVER

2 - ELEMENT
3 - CCV HOSE
1. Install the air filter element (2) into air box. See Fig. 73.
2. Position the cover (1) so that the rear locking tabs insert into the lower housing.
3. Seat cover (1) onto element housing and assure that the front locking tabs engage.
4. Reconnect the CCV hose (3).
HOUSING-AIR CLEANER
REMOVAL
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REMOVAL
Fig. 74: Air Cleaner Housing Assembly

1 - BOLT
2 - CCV HOSE
3 - THROTTLE
4 - IAT SENSOR
5 - INLET AIR DUCT
6 - AIR CLEANER ELEMENT HOUSING
1. Separate the air inlet duct (5) at the element housing (6).
2. Disconnect the CCV hose (2) at the element housing (6).
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3. Remove the housing retaining bolt (1).

4. Pull housing up and off of the locating pin.
5. Remove element housing (6) from vehicle. See Fig. 74
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
Fig. 75: Air Cleaner Housing Assembly

1 - BOLT
2 - CCV HOSE
3 - THROTTLE
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4 - IAT SENSOR
5 - INLET AIR DUCT
6 - AIR CLEANER ELEMENT HOUSING
1. Align the housing (6) with the lower air inlet duct and alignment grommet in the wheel housing.
2. Properly fit the housing (6) and install housing retaining bolt (1). See Fig. 75.
3. Connect the inlet air duct (5) to the housing (6) and tighten clamp.
4. Connect the CCV hose (2) to housing.
CYLINDER HEAD(S)
DESCRIPTION
CYLINDER HEAD
The aluminum alloy cylinder heads feature cross- flow type intake and exhaust ports. Valve guides and seat
inserts are powdered metal. Valves are arranged in a "V", with each camshaft on center. To improve
combustion speed the chambers are a compact spherical design with a squish area of approximately 30 percent
of the piston top area. The cylinder heads are common to either cylinder bank by reversing the direction of
installation.
water jacket.

 Loss of coolant
 Coolant foaming
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leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50-70% reduction in compression pressure.

VISUAL TEST METHOD
opens.

REMOVAL
CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL
RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
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Fig. 76: Accessory Drive Belt Routing

1 - GENERATOR
2 - IDLER PULLEY
3 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
4 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
5 - ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TENSIONER
6 - A/C COMPRESSOR
7 - ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
1. Perform the fuel relief procedure.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
4. Remove the upper intake manifold. See REMOVAL.
5. Remove the lower intake manifold. See REMOVAL.
6. Remove accessory drive belt (7).
7. Remove accessory drive belt idler pulley.
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Fig. 77: Removing Power Steering Mounting Bolts, Pump & Crankshaft Damper
8. Remove the power steering mounting bolts (3) and set the pump aside (Refer to REMOVAL ).
9. Remove crankshaft damper (4) (Refer to REMOVAL ).
Fig. 78: Removing/Installing Accessory Drive Bracket

10. Remove the accessory drive bracket (2).

11. Remove the outer timing belt cover bolts and cover.
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12. Remove front exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold mounting bolts (3,5).
13. Disconnect both oxygen sensor harness connectors on each side.
Fig. 80: Identifying Timing Gear Components

1 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT 7 - LEFT CAMSHAFT

GEAR ALIGNMENT MARK GEAR
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GEAR GEAR ALIGNMENT MARK

3 - CYLINDER HEAD TO 9 - CRANKSHAFT GEAR
INNER TIMING BELT ALIGNMENT MARK
COVER BOLTS - RIGHT
4 - TIMING BELT 10 - CRANKSHAFT GEAR
5 - WATER PUMP PULLEY 11 - TIMING BELT
TENSIONER PULLEY
6 - CYLINDER HEAD TO 12 - TIMING BELT
INNER TIMING BELT TENSIONER
COVER BOLTS - LEFT
14. Rotate the engine to TDC and align timing belt marks (1, 8, 9). See Fig. 80.
15. Remove the timing belt tensioner (1, 2) and reset the tensioner. See REMOVAL.
16. Remove the timing belt (4). See REMOVAL.
17. Remove the right cylinder head cover to cylinder head ground strap and capacitor.
18. Remove the EGR valve and tube assembly.
19. Remove the right cylinder head cover.
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Fig. 81: Camshaft, Rocker Arm Assembly & Cylinder Head

1 - SPARK PLUG TUBE

2 - ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY
3 - CAMSHAFT
4 - CAMSHAFT SEAL
20. Remove the right rocker arm assembly (2).
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Fig. 82: Camshaft Thrust Plate, Bolt & O-Ring

1 - CAMSHAFT THRUST PLATE

2 - BOLT
3 - O-RING
21. Remove the right rear camshaft thrust plate (1). See Fig. 82.
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Fig. 83: Removing/Installing Camshaft Sprocket

1 - LOOSENED ROCKER ASSEMBLY

2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT TDC
22. Counterhold the cam gear and remove the right cam gear retaining bolt. See Fig. 83.
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Fig. 84: Timing Chain Cover, Cylinder Head Bolts, Knock Sensor, Spark Plug Tube & Camshaft

2 - CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS
3 - KNOCK SENSOR
4 - SPARK PLUG TUBE
5 - CAMSHAFT
23. Push the camshaft (5) out of the back of the cylinder head approximately 3.5 inches and remove the right
cam gear. See Fig. 84.
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24. Remove the inner timing cover to cylinder head retaining bolts.
25. Remove the cylinder head bolts in REVERSE of tightening sequence. See Fig. 85.
26. Remove the cylinder head.
27. Clean and inspect all mating surfaces.
LEFT CYLINDER HEAD

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1 - GENERATOR
2 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - A/C COMPRESSOR
1. Perform the fuel relief procedure.

3. Drain cooling system (Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE ).
4. Remove the upper intake manifold.
5. Remove the lower intake manifold (Refer to REMOVAL ).
6. Remove the accessory drive belt (7).
7. Remove the belt tensioner.
8. Remove the accessory drive idler pulley.
Fig. 87: Removing Power Steering Mounting Bolts, Pump & Crankshaft Damper
9. Remove the power steering mounting bolts (3) and set pump (2) aside.
10. Remove the crankshaft damper (Refer to REMOVAL .
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11. Remove the accessory drive bracket (2).

12. Remove the outer timing belt cover bolts and cover.

13. Remove the front exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold mounting bolts (3,5).
14. Disconnect both oxygen sensor harness connectors.
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COVER BOLTS - RIGHT
TENSIONER PULLEY
COVER BOLTS - LEFT
15. Remove the outer timing belt cover. See REMOVAL).

16. Remove the timing belt tensioner (12), timing belt (4), then reset tensioner. See REMOVAL.
17. Rotate the engine to TDC and align the timing marks (1,8,9). See Fig. 90.
18. Remove the left cylinder head cover to cylinder head ground strap.
19. Remove the left cylinder head cover.
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Fig. 91: Cylinder Head, Camshaft, & Rocker Arms

1 - SPARK PLUG TUBE

3 - CAMSHAFT
4 - SEAL
20. Remove the left rocker arm assembly (2). See Fig. 91.
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2 - BOLT
3 - O-RING
21. Remove the left camshaft thrust plate (1).
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Fig. 93: Left Camshaft Sprocket

1 - LEFT CAMSHAFT TDC

22. Counterhold the left cam gear and remove the cam gear retaining bolt. See Fig. 93. See REMOVAL.
23. Push the camshaft out of the back of the cylinder head approximately 3.5 inches and remove the cam
gear.
Remove the front timing belt housing to cylinder head bolts.
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24. Remove the cylinder head bolts in REVERSE of tightening sequence.

25. Remove the cylinder head.
26. Clean and inspect all mating surfaces.
CLEANING
CYLINDER HEAD
Remove all gasket material from cylinder head and block. See STANDARD PROCEDURE. Be careful not to
gouge or scratch the aluminum head sealing surface.
Clean all engine oil passages.
INSPECTION
CYLINDER HEAD
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Fig. 95: Checking Cylinder Head Flatness

1. Before cleaning, check for leaks, damage and cracks.

2. Clean cylinder head and oil passages.
3. Check cylinder head for flatness. See Fig. 95.
4. Cylinder head must be flat within:
Standard dimension = less than 0.05 mm (0.002 inch.)
Service Limit = 0.2 mm (0.008 inch.)
Grinding Limit = Maximum of 0.2 mm (0.008 inch.) is permitted.
CAUTION: 0.20 mm (0.008 in.) MAX is a combined total dimension of the stock
removal limit from cylinder head and block top surface (Deck) together.
INSTALLATION
CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION
RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
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Fig. 96: Checking For Stretched Bolts

1 - STRETCHED BOLT
CAUTION: THE CYLINDER HEAD GASKETS ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE

BETWEEN CYLINDER HEADS AND ARE CLEARLY MARKED RIGHT OR
LEFT.
The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be examined
BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down the bolts must be replaced. .
Necking can be checked by holding a scale or straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact
the scale the bolt must be replaced.
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metal scraper because the surfaces could be cut or ground. Use ONLY a
wooden or plastic scraper. See ENGINE GASKET SURFACE
PREPARATION.
1. Clean sealing surfaces of cylinder head and block.
CAUTION: Ensure that the correct head gaskets are used and are oriented
correctly on cylinder block.
NOTE: Before installing the cylinder head bolts, lubricate the threads with clean
engine oil.
2. Install the cylinder head over locating dowels and finger tighten the head bolts.
3. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the following sequence, using the 4 step torque-turn method. Tighten
according to the following torque values:
Step 1: All to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.)
Step 3: All (again) to 88 N.m (65 ft. lbs.)
Step 4: + 90° Turn Do not use a torque wrench for this step.
4. Bolt torque after 90° turn should be over 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.) in the tightening direction. If not, replace
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the bolt.


5. Install the inner timing cover to cylinder head bolts. Tighten bolts to 54 N.m (40 lbs.ft.).
6. Install camshaft sprocket (2) Counterhold the camshaft sprocket gear (2) and tighten the camshaft
sprocket bolt to 102 N.m plus a 1/4 turn (75 lbs. ft. plus a 1/4 turn). See INSTALLATION.
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2 - BOLT
3 - O-RING
7. Install the rear camshaft thrust plate (1) and seal (3) and the EGR valve.
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COVER BOLTS - RIGHT
TENSIONER PULLEY
COVER BOLTS - LEFT
8. Rotate the camshaft gear to it's alignment mark (1) and check the left camshaft gear (7) and crankshaft
gear timing alignment marks (9).
9. Install the timing belt (4) and tensioner (12). See INSTALLATION.
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Fig. 101: Front Timing Belt Cover, Engine Oil Filter, Vibration Damper & Timing Belt Tensioner
1 - FRONT TIMING BELT COVER

3 - VIBRATION DAMPER
4 - TIMING BELT TENSIONER
10. Install the timing belt outer cover (1) (Refer to INSTALLATION ).
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11. Install the accessory drive bracket (2).

1 - GENERATOR
2 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - A/C COMPRESSOR
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12. Install the vibration damper (Refer to INSTALLATION ).

13. Install the accessory drive belt tensioner.
14. Install the accessory drive belt idler pulley.
15. Install the accessory drive belt (7).
Fig. 104: Removing/Installing Power Steering Pump

16. Install the power steering pump (2).

17. Install the right rocker arm assembly.
18. Install the right cylinder head cover, ground strap and insulator.
19. Install lower intake manifold (Refer to INSTALLATION ).
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22. Install the right exhaust manifold (Refer to INSTALLATION ).

23. Install the exhaust pipe (1) and connect the oxygen sensors.
24. Connect the air cleaner element housing (Refer to INSTALLATION ).
25. Fill the coolant system.
LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
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Fig. 106: Checking For Stretched Bolts

1 - STRETCHED BOLT
CAUTION: THE CYLINDER HEAD GASKETS ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE

BETWEEN CYLINDER HEADS AND ARE CLEARLY MARKED RIGHT OR
LEFT.
The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be examined
BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down the bolts must be replaced.
Necking can be checked by holding a scale or straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact
the scale the bolt must be replaced.

metal scraper because the surfaces could be cut or ground. Use ONLY a
wooden or plastic scraper. See ENGINE GASKET SURFACE
PREPARATION.
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1. Clean sealing surfaces of cylinder head and block.
CAUTION: Ensure that the correct head gaskets are used and are oriented
correctly on cylinder block.
2. Install head gasket over locating dowels. Ensure the gasket is installed on the correct side of engine.
NOTE: Before installing the cylinder head bolts, lubricate the threads with engine
oil.
3. Install the cylinder head over locating dowels, insert and finger tighten the head bolts.
4. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown. Using the 4 step torque-turn method, tighten
according to the following torque values:
Step 3: All (again) to 88 N.m (65 ft. lbs.)
Step 4: + 90° Turn Do not use a torque wrench for this step.
5. Bolt torque after 90° turn should be over 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.) in the tightening direction. If not, replace
the bolt.
6. Install the inner timing cover to cylinder head bolts. Tighten bolts to 54 N.m (40 lbs.ft.).
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Fig. 108: Installing Camshaft Sprocket

7. Install camshaft sprocket. Counterhold the camshaft sprocket gear and tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt
to 102 N.m plus a 1/4 turn (75 lbs. ft. plus a 1/4 turn)
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2 - BOLT
3 - O-RING
8. Install the rear camshaft thrust plate (1) and seal (3).
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COVER BOLTS - RIGHT
TENSIONER PULLEY
COVER BOLTS - LEFT
9. Rotate the camshaft gear (7) to it's alignment mark (8) and check the right camshaft gear (1) and
crankshaft gear timing (9) alignment marks.
10. Install the timing belt (4) and tensioner (11). See INSTALLATION.
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Fig. 111: Front Timing Belt Cover, Engine Oil Filter, Vibration Damper & Timing Belt Tensioner
1 - FRONT TIMING BELT COVER

4 - TIMING BELT TENSIONER
11. Install the timing belt front cover (1). See INSTALLATION).
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12. Install the accessory drive bracket (2).

1 - GENERATOR
2 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - A/C COMPRESSOR
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13. Install the accessory drive belt tensioner (5).

14. Install the accessory drive belt idler pulley.
15. Install the accessory drive belt (7).
16. Install the vibration damper (4) (Refer to INSTALLATION ).

17. Install the left exhaust manifold. (Refer to INSTALLATION ).

18. Connect the exhaust pipe (1) and connect the oxygen sensor.
19. Install the left rocker arm assembly.
20. Install the left cylinder head cover and ground strap.
Fig. 115: Removing/Installing Power Steering Pump

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21. Install the power steering pump (2).

22. Install lower intake manifold (Refer to INSTALLATION ).
25. Connect the air cleaner element housing (Refer to INSTALLATION ).
26. Fill the coolant system.
SEAL -CAMSHAFT OIL
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD


2. Remove front timing cover and align the camshaft gear (1,8) and crankshaft gear timing mark (9) to TDC.
See REMOVAL).
3. Remove timing belt (4).
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4. Remove the right camshaft sprocket. See Fig. 117. See REMOVAL.
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2 - BOLT
3 - O-RING
5. Remove the EGR valve and camshaft thrust plate (1) from the rear of the cylinder head.
7. Remove the rocker arm assembly. See REMOVAL.
8. Maneuver the camshaft rearward and out of the cylinder head approximately 3.5 inches.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to damage the cylinder head to seal or camshaft
journal surfaces when removing the camshaft seal.
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Fig. 119: Removing Camshaft Oil Seal

1 - CYLINDER HEAD
2 - DRIFT
3 - CAMSHAFT
9. Using an appropriate driver carefully remove camshaft oil seal. See Fig. 119
LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
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3. Remove front timing cover and align the camshaft gear and crankshaft gear timing marks to TDC. See
REMOVAL).
4. Remove the rear timing cover. See REMOVAL).
6. Remove the rocker arm assembly. See REMOVAL.
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2 - BOLT
3 - O-RING
7. Remove the camshaft thrust plate (1) from the rear of the cylinder head.
8. Maneuver the camshaft rearward and out of the cylinder head approximately 3.5 inches.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to damage the cylinder head to seal or camshaft
journal surfaces when removing the camshaft seal.
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Fig. 122: Removing Camshaft Oil Seal

1 - DRIFT
2 - CAMSHAFT
3 - CYLINDER HEAD
9. Using an appropriate driver (1) carefully remove camshaft oil seal.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
Fig. 123: Using MD-998306 To Tap Seal Into Place

1 - REAR TIMING COVER

2 - SPECIAL TOOL MD-998306
1. Position the camshaft seal into the cylinder head. See Fig. 123.
2. Using MD-998306 (2) tap the seal into place. See Fig. 123.
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Fig. 124: Rear Timing Cover, Special Tool 6788 & Camshaft
1 - REAR TIMING COVER

3 - CAMSHAFT
3. Apply light coat of clean engine oil to the camshaft oil seal lip and 6788 Seal Protector Sleeve (2).
4. Install oil seal 6788 Seal Protector Sleeve (2) onto the camshaft. See Fig. 124.
5. Slide the camshaft (3) forward, inserting the seal protector (2) through the camshaft seal until the
camshaft (3) seats. See Fig. 124.
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6. Remove Special Tool (2) from the camshaft.


2 - BOLT
3 - O-RING
7. Install the camshaft thrust plate (1), and new seal (3) to the rear of the cylinder head. See Fig. 125.
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Fig. 126: Installing EGR valve

1 - TUBE
2 - EGR VALVE
8. Install the EGR valve (2). See Fig. 126.
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9. Install camshaft sprocket (2) and tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 102 N.m (75 ft.lbs.).
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10. Install the timing belt (4). See Fig. 128. See INSTALLATION.
11. Install rocker assembly (1). See INSTALLATION.

12. Install cylinder head cover. See INSTALLATION

13. Install the front timing belt cover. See INSTALLATION.
14. Install the vibration damper (4). See INSTALLATION.
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LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
Fig. 130: Using MD-998306 To Tap Seal Into Place

1 - MALLET
3 - CYLINDER HEAD
1. Position the camshaft seal into the cylinder head (3)

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2. Using MD-998306 (2) tap the seal into place. See Fig. 130.
Fig. 131: Camshaft, Special Tool 6788, Camshaft Seal & Cylinder Head
1 - CAMSHAFT
3 - CAMSHAFT SEAL
4 - CYLINDER HEAD
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3. Apply light coat of engine oil to the camshaft oil seal lip (3) and 6788 (2) Seal Protector Sleeve.
4. Install oil seal (3) 6788 Seal Protector Sleeve (2) onto the camshaft (1). See Fig. 131
5. Slide the camshaft (1) forward, inserting the seal protector (2) through the camshaft seal (3) until the
camshaft seats. See Fig. 131.
6. Remove 6788 (2) from the camshaft (1).


2 - BOLT
3 - O-RING
7. Install the camshaft thrust plate (1) and new seal (3) to the rear of the cylinder head. See Fig. 132.
8. Install rear timing belt cover. See INSTALLATION).
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9. Install the camshaft gear (7) and align the timing marks (1,8,9). See Fig. 133. See INSTALLATION.
10. Install the timing belt (4). See INSTALLATION.
11. Install the rocker arm assembly. See INSTALLATION.
12. Install the cylinder head cover.


14. Install the vibration damper (4). See INSTALLATION.
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CAMSHAFT(S)
DESCRIPTION
CAMSHAFT
A single overhead camshaft per cylinder head provides valve actuation. The left camshaft accommodates a cam
sensor pick-up wheel and is therefore longer. Each camshaft is supported by four bearing journals. A thrust
plate attached to the rear of each cylinder head controls camshaft end play. Right and left camshaft driving
sprockets support a timing mark, are keyed, and not interchangeable because of the cam sensor pick-up wheel
on the left sprocket. Camshaft bearing lubrication is provided via a oil supply passage through each rocker shaft
pedestal dowel.
OPERATION
CAMSHAFT
The camshaft is driven by the crankshaft via drive sprockets and belt. The camshaft has precisely machined
lobes to provide accurate valve timing and duration.
REMOVAL
CAMSHAFT
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Fig. 135: Spark Plug Tube, Rocker Arm Assembly, Camshaft & Seal
1 - SPARK PLUG TUBE

3 - CAMSHAFT
4 - SEAL
NOTE: Camshafts are removed from the rear of each cylinder head.
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1. Remove the cylinder head. See REMOVAL.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to nick or scratch the journals when
removing the camshaft.
2. Carefully remove the camshaft (3) from the rear of the cylinder head. See Fig. 135
INSPECTION
CAMSHAFT
Fig. 136: Camshaft Inspection

1 - ACTUAL WEAR
2 - LEFT CAMSHAFT
3 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT
4 - BEARING JOURNAL
5 - LOBE
1. Inspect camshaft bearing journals (4) for damage and binding. If journals are binding, check the cylinder
head for damage. Also check cylinder head oil holes for clogging.
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2. Check the cam lobe (5) and bearing surfaces for abnormal wear and damage. Replace camshaft if
defective.
NOTE: If camshaft is replaced due to lobe wear or damage, always replace the
rocker arms.
3. Measure the lobe (5) actual wear and replace camshaft if out of limit. Standard value is 0.0254 mm (0.001
in.), wear. See Fig. 136. Limit is 0.254 mm (0.010 in.).
INSTALLATION
CAMSHAFT
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Fig. 137: Spark Plug Tube, Rocker Arm Assembly, Camshaft & Seal
1 - SPARK PLUG TUBE

3 - CAMSHAFT
4 - SEAL
NOTE: Care must be taken not to scrape or nick the camshaft journals when installing
the camshaft into position.
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1. Lubricate camshaft (3) bearing journals, camshaft lobes and camshaft seal (4) with clean engine oil and
install camshaft (3) into cylinder head. See Fig. 137.
2. Install the cylinder head. See INSTALLATION.
COVER CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT
REMOVAL
CYLINDER HEAD COVER - LEFT
Fig. 138: Removing/Installing Cylinder Head Cover

1 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER-LEFT SIDE

2 - BOLTS (8)
WARNING: DO NOT START OR RUN ENGINE WITH CYLINDER HEAD COVER

REMOVED FROM THE ENGINE. DAMAGE OR PERSONAL INJURY MAY
OCCUR.
1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.

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2. Remove the upper intake manifold from the engine. See REMOVAL.
3. Cover lower intake manifold with a suitable cover during service.
4. Disconnect and remove the three ignition coils.
5. Remove the ground strap/resistor retaining bolt from the cylinder head cover.
6. Lift up on the wire harness track retaining tabs.
7. Completely loosen the cylinder head cover retaining bolts and remove the cylinder head cover. See Fig.
138.
INSTALLATION
CYLINDER HEAD COVER - LEFT
Fig. 139: Inspecting/Replacing Gasket And Seals

1 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER GASKET

2 - SPARK PLUG TUBE SEALS
1. Clean cylinder head and cover mating surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket (1) and seals (2) as necessary.
See Fig. 139.
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Fig. 140: Installing Seals Using MD-998306


2 - SPARK PLUG TUBE SEAL
2. To replace spark plug tube seals (2):

 Using a suitable pry tool, carefully remove tube seals (2).
 Position new seal (2) with the part number on seal facing cylinder head cover.
 Install seals using MD-998306 (1). See Fig. 140.
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Fig. 141: Removing/Installing Cylinder Head Cover

1 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER-LEFT SIDE

2 - BOLTS (8)
3. Install cylinder head cover (1) and bolts (2). Tighten to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
4. Position the wiring harness (3) on the cylinder head cover.
5. Reclip the wire harness track retaining tabs into the cover.
6. Install the ground strap/resistor retaining bolt onto the cylinder head cover.
7. Install the ignition coils (2). Tighten mounting screws to 6.7 N.m (60 in. lbs.)
8. Connect the ignition coil electrical connectors (2).
9. Install upper intake manifold. See INSTALLATION.
COVER CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT
REMOVAL
CYLINDER HEAD COVER - RIGHT
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Fig. 142: Cylinder Head Cover Gasket & Spark Plug Tube Seals

WARNING: DO NOT START OR RUN ENGINE WITH CYLINDER HEAD COVER

REMOVED FROM THE ENGINE. DAMAGE OR PERSONAL INJURY MAY
OCCUR.

3. Cover lower intake manifold openings during service.
4. Disconnect and remove the three ignition coils.
5. Lift up on the wire harness track retaining tabs.
6. Remove the ground strap retaining bolt from the cylinder head cover.
7. Completely loosen the cylinder head cover retaining bolts and remove the cylinder head cover (1).
INSTALLATION
CYLINDER HEAD COVER - RIGHT
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Fig. 143: Cylinder Head Cover Gasket & Spark Plug Tube Seals

1. Clean cylinder head and cover mating surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket (1) and seals (2) as necessary.
See Fig. 143.
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Fig. 144: Installing Spark Plug Tube Seal


2 - SPARK PLUG TUBE SEAL
2. To replace spark plug tube seals (2):

 Using a suitable pry tool, carefully remove tube seals (2).
 Position new seal (2) with the part number on seal facing cylinder head cover.
 Install seals using MD-99830 (1).
3. Install cylinder head cover bolts and tighten to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
4. Install the ground strap retaining bolt to the cylinder head cover.
5. Install the wire harness track.
6. Install the ignition coils. Tighten mounting screws to 6.7 N.m (60 in. lbs.).
7. Connect the ignition coil electrical connectors (2).
9. Connect negative battery cable
VALVES & SEATS -INTAKE/EXHAUST
DESCRIPTION
VALVES
Valves are made of highly heat-resistant steel and are chrome plated to prevent stem scuffing. The intake valve
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is a one-piece forging, while the exhaust valve has a forged head with a welded stem for lock groove hardness.
The four valves (two intake and two exhaust) employ a three-groove lock design to help facilitate valve
rotation.
OPERATION
VALVES
The intake valve allows the air/fuel mixture to enter the combustion chamber. The exhaust valve allows the
burned air/fuel mixture to exit the combustion chamber. Also, the intake and exhaust valves seal the combustion
chamber during the compression and power strokes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
VALVE AND VALVE SEAT REFACING
Fig. 145: Intake & Exhaust Valves

1 - MARGIN
2 - FACE
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3 - STEM
4 - VALVE SPRING RETAINER LOCK GROOVES
VALVES
1. Inspect the remaining margin (1) after the valves are refaced. See SPECIFICATIONS.
VALVE SEATS
Fig. 146: Valve Face & Seat

1 - SEAT WIDTH
2 - FACE ANGLE
3 - SEAT ANGLE
4 - SEAT CONTACT AREA
1. When refacing valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseating
stones. A true and complete surface must be obtained.
2. Measure the concentricity of valve seat using dial indicator. Total runout should not exceed 0.051 mm
(0.002 inch.) Total indicator reading.
3. Inspect the valve seat (3) with Prussian blue to determine where the valve (1) contacts the seat. To do
this, coat valve seat (1) LIGHTLY with Prussian blue then set valve in place. Rotate the valve with light
pressure. If the blue is transferred to the center of valve face (2), contact is satisfactory. If the blue is
transferred to top edge of valve face (2), then lower valve seat (3) with a 15° stone. If the blue is
transferred to the bottom edge of valve face (2), then raise valve seat (3) with a 65° stone.
NOTE: Valve seats (1) which are worn or burned can be reworked, provided that
correct angle and seat width (1) are maintained. Otherwise cylinder head
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must be replaced.
4. When seat is properly positioned the width of the intake seats should be 0.75 to 1.25 mm (0.0296 to
0.0493 in.) and exhaust seats should be 1.25 to 1.75 mm (0.049 to 0.069 in.). See Fig. 146.
VALVE AND SPRING INSTALLED HEIGHT
Fig. 147: Checking Valve Tip Height & Valve Spring Installed Height
1 - SPRING RETAINER
2 - GARTER SPRING
3 - VALVE SPRING SEAT TOP
4 - CYLINDER HEAD SURFACE
1. Coat valve stems with clean engine oil and insert them in cylinder head.
2. If valves or seats have been refaced, check valve tip height (A). See Fig. 147. If valve tip height is greater
than 43.65 mm (1.7185 in.) intake or 46.48 mm (1.8299 in.) exhaust, grind valve tip until within
specifications. Make sure measurement is taken from cylinder head surface to the top of valve stem.
3. Install valve seal/spring seat assembly over valve guides on all valve stem. See Fig. 149. Ensure that the
garter spring is intact around the top of the rubber seal.
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Fig. 148: Valve Spring Identification

1 - YELLOW OR WHITE DYE

2 - ORANGE DYE
4. Place valve spring (color-coded end facing up). See Fig. 148 and valve retainer into position on spring
seat. See Fig. 147.
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Fig. 149: Valve Seal & Spring-Installation

1 - VALVE
2 - VALVE RETAINING LOCKS
3 - VALVE SPRING RETAINER
4 - VALVE SPRING
5 - VALVE SEAL AND VALVE SPRING SEAT
ASSEMBLY
5. Compress valve springs (4) with valve spring compressor C-3422-D and adapter 6526. See SPECIAL
TOOLS, install locks (2) and release tool.
6. If valves (1) and/or seats are refaced, measure the installed height of springs. See Fig. 147. Measurements
are taken from top of spring (4) seat to the bottom surface of spring retainer. If height is greater than
38.75 mm (1.5256 in.), install a 0.762 mm (0.030 in.) spacer in head counterbore under the valve spring
seat to bring spring height back within specification.
REMOVAL
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VALVES
1. Remove cylinder head(s). See REMOVAL.

2. Remove rocker arm assembly. See REMOVAL.
3. Remove valve spring(s). See REMOVAL.
4. Before removing valve, remove any burrs from valve stem lock grooves to prevent damage to the
valve guides. Identify valves to insure installation in original location.
5. Remove valve(s) from cylinder head.
CLEANING
VALVE AND VALVE SPRING
1. Clean all valves thoroughly and discard burned, warped and cracked valves.
INSPECTION
VALVE GUIDES
Fig. 150: Measuring Valve Guide Wear

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1. Measure valve stem-to-guide clearance as follows:

2. Install valve into cylinder head so it is 15 mm (0.590 inch.) off the valve seat. A small piece of hose may
be used to hold valve in place.
3. Attach dial indicator Tool C-3339 to cylinder head and set it at right angle of valve stem being measured.
See Fig. 150.
4. Move valve to and from the indicator.
5. Note dial indicator reading and compare to engine specifications. See SPECIFICATIONS.
NOTE: Replace cylinder head if stem-to-guide clearance exceeds specifications, or if

guide is loose in cylinder head.
VALVES
Fig. 151: Intake & Exhaust Valves

1 - MARGIN
2 - FACE
3 - STEM
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4 - VALVE SPRING RETAINER LOCK GROOVES
1. Measure valve stems for wear approximately 60 mm (2.36 in.) below the valve lock grooves. See Fig.
151.
2. Compare measurement to specifications, see SPECIFICATIONS.
NOTE: Valve stems are chrome plated and should not be polished. See Fig. 151.
INSTALLATION
VALVES
1 - SPRING RETAINER
2 - GARTER SPRING
1. Coat valve stems with clean engine oil and insert them in cylinder head.
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2. If valves or seats have been reground, check valve tip height (A). See Fig. 152. If valve tip height is
greater than 43.65 mm (1.7185 in.) intake or 46.48 mm (1.8299 in.) exhaust, grind valve tip until within
specifications. Make sure measurement is taken from cylinder head surface to the top of valve stem.
3. Install new valve stem seals.
4. Install valve springs. See INSTALLATION.
5. Install cylinder head(s). See INSTALLATION.
ROCKER ARM SHAFT/ROCKER ARM/LASH ADJUSTER
DESCRIPTION
ROCKER ARMS
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Fig. 153: Rocker Arm Assembly

1 - RETAINER
2 - SWIVEL PAD
3 - ROLLER
Rocker arms are made of light weight permanent mold aluminum alloy with a roller (3) type follower operating
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against the camshaft. See Fig. 153. The valve actuating end of the rocker arms are machined to retain hydraulic
lash adjusters, eliminating the need for manual valve lash adjustment.
ROCKER ARM SHAFTS
Fig. 154: Rocker Arms & Shafts

The rocker arm shafts are tubular steel and are supported by several forged aluminum alloy pedestals, which are
fastened to the cylinder head. Four shafts are used, one for each intake and exhaust rocker arm bank on each
cylinder head. The shafts are hollow to provide a duct for lubricating oil flow from the cylinder head to the
valve mechanisms. One hollow dowel per pedestal is used to locate the pedestal to the cylinder head, orient the
exhaust rocker shaft, and serve as a cam bearing oil feed passage. See Fig. 154.
OPERATION
ROCKER ARMS
The rocker arm is the pivot point between the camshaft lobe and the valve.
LASH ADJUSTER (TAPPET) NOISE DIAGNOSIS
Proper noise diagnosis is essential in locating the source of a NVH complaint. Locating a lash adjuster (tappet)
type noise can sometimes be difficult. As a result, an initial misdiagnosis may occur.
Refer to the following chart indicating possible lash adjuster (tappet) noise sources and possible sources that
could lead to a misdiagnosis.
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Refer to Lash Adjuster (Tappet) Noise Chart for Possible Causes and Correction of a lash adjuster (tappet) type
noise.
POSSIBLE NOISE SOURCES POSSIBLE NOISE MISDIAGNOSIS SOURCES

Spongy/soft/aerated lash adjusters. Exhaust leak.
Missing lash adjuster swivel contact pads. Exhaust rocker arm-to-cylinder head cover contact.
Intake rocker-to-camshaft bearing journal contact. Piston pin bore fit.
Rocker arm bind-up. Timing drive hydraulic tensioner tick.
Intake rocker arm-to-spark plug tube contact. Accessory drive belt deterioration.
Excessive cam end play. Piston-to-bore clearance knock.
Broken valve spring. Crankshaft bearing noise.
Broken/loose camshaft sprocket bolt.
Incomplete cam lobe machining.
Cracked lash adjuster cartridge body.
LASH ADJUSTER (TAPPET) NOISE CHART

POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
1. Engine oil level-too high or too low. This may 1. Check and correct engine oil level.
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder 2. Low speed running of up to 1 hour may be
head. required to fully evacuate trapped air from the valve
train system. During this time, turn engine off and
let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat
this several times after engine has reached normal
operating temperature.
3. Air trapped in lash adjuster (after 1 hour run 3. See below:
time). (a) Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head. Depress part of rocker
arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very
firm. Very spongy adjusters can be bottomed out
easily.
(b) Before proceeding, perform Lash Adjuster
Bleeding procedure.
(c) If lash adjuster(s) are still spongy, replace with
new adjuster/rocker arm assembly*.
4. Low oil pressure 4. See below:
(a) Check and correct engine oil level.
(b) Check engine oil pressure.
(c) Check for excessive bearing clearance and
correct.
(d) Check for worn oil pump.
5. Oil passage to cylinder head(s) plugged with 5. Check cylinder head oil passages and cylinder
debris. head gasket restrictor for blockage. Clean or replace
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as necessary.
6. Worn valve guide(s). 6. Ream guide(s) and replace valve(s) with oversize
valves and seal(s).
7. Air injected into oil due to broken or cracked oil 7. Inspect pickup tube and replace as necessary.
pump pickup tube.
8. Collapsed lash adjuster due to debris injection. 8. Clean debris from engine and replace lash
adjuster/rocker assembly*.
9. Intake rocker arm roller clevis ear(s) contacting 9. Inspect camshaft end play and all valve train
camshaft bearing journal(s) on side. components for wear. Replace as necessary.
*Lash adjusters are serviced with the rocker arms-do not disassemble.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER BLEEDING
Fig. 155: Rocker Arm Positioned On Base Circle Of Camshaft

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1 - CAMSHAFT BASE CIRCLE

2 - HIGH-PRESSURE CHAMBER
Use this procedure to manually bleed aerated oil from the lash adjuster and remove sponginess.
1. Run the engine, bringing it to operating temperature in order to freshly pressurize and warm the
valvetrain system oil supply.
2. Remove cylinder head cover(s).
3. Ensure the rocker arm is positioned on the base circle (1) of the cam. See Fig. 155. Rotate engine as
necessary.
Fig. 156: Special Tool 8351, Service Access Hole, Rocker Arm, Check Ball, Valve Tip & Lash
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Adjuster

2 - OIL AIR RELIEF SERVICE ACCESS HOLE
4 - INTERNAL CHECK BALL
5 - VALVE TIP
6 - HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER WITHIN ROCKER
ARM
4. For intake rocker arm positions:

 Adjust Special Tool 8351 (1) Release Probe's gauge pin to extend approximately 20 mm (0.787
in.). Then, carefully insert the release probe gauge pin into the lash adjuster (6) service access hole
(2). See Fig. 156.
CAUTION: If probe tip (1) breaks off within the lash adjuster (6), replace the
affected rocker arm (3).
Gently unseat lash adjuster's internal check ball (4).


 While the internal check ball (4) is held unseated, press the rocker arm (3) into the valve tip (5),
allowing the lash adjuster (6) to fully collapse. Hold this fully collapsed position for about one
second, or longer.
 Slowly release the rocker arm (3), thereby allowing the (6) to extend, which in turn refills the high
pressure chamber with non-aerated oil.
 Remove probe to allow check ball (4) to seat.
 Recheck for sponginess. If the lash adjuster (6) sponginess is not completely or nearly eliminated,
then repeat procedure.
 If the spongy condition cannot be removed, replace effected rocker arm(s) (3).
5. For exhaust rocker arm (3) positions:

 Adjust Special Tool 8351 (1) Release Probe gauge pin to extend approximately 20 mm (0.787 in.).
Then, using two release probes, carefully insert gauge pins into the lash adjuster service access
holes. See Fig. 156.
CAUTION: If probe tip (1) breaks off within the lash adjuster (6), replace the
affected rocker arm (3).
 Gently unseat BOTH lash adjuster's internal check ball (4) at the same time.
 While the internal check ball (4) is held unseated, press the rocker arm (6) into the valve tip,
allowing the lash adjuster to fully collapse. Hold this fully collapsed position for about one second,
or longer.
 Slowly release the rocker arm (3), thereby allowing the lash adjuster (6) to extend, which in turn
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refills the high pressure chamber with non-aerated oil.

 Remove probes (1) to allow check balls (4) to seat.
 Recheck for sponginess. If the lash adjuster (6) sponginess is not completely or nearly eliminated,
then repeat procedure.
 If the spongy condition cannot be removed, replace effected rocker arm(s) (3).
6. Install cylinder head cover(s).
REMOVAL
SHAFT -ROCKER ARMS

CAUTION: The rocker arm shafts are hollow and are used as lubrication oil passages.
The rocker arm and shaft assembly on the RIGHT side of the engine has
an oil passage hole from the cylinder head to the third rocker shaft
support. The rocker arm shaft assembly on the LEFT side of the engine
has an oil passage hole from the cylinder head to the second rocker shaft
support.
1. Remove cylinder head covers. See REMOVAL)

2. Identify the rocker arm assembly and rocker arms before disassembly. See Fig. 157.
3. Remove rocker arm assembly bolts.
4. Remove rocker arm assembly.
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NOTE: To prevent air ingestion into lash adjusters, avoid turning rocker arm assembly
upside down.
CAUTION: Do not allow rocker arm assembly to rest on lash adjusters, as damage
may occur to lash adjusters and/or plastic retainers.
DISASSEMBLY
SHAFT -ROCKER ARMS
Fig. 158: Rocker Arms & Shaft - Disassembly

1 - 4mm SCREW AND NUT

2 - 4mm SCREW AND NUT
3 - WASHER
4 - SPACER
5 - DOWEL
6 - DOWEL
7 - SPACER
8 - WASHER
1. Remove rocker arm and shafts. See REMOVAL.

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2. Remove dowel pin using a 4 mm screw, nut, spacer, and washer installed into the pin. See Fig. 158.
Thread the screw into the pin, then loosen the nut on the screw. This will pull the dowel out of the shaft
support. Do not reuse dowel pins. Remove the rocker arms and pedestals in order.
3. Check the rocker arm mounting portion of the shafts for wear or damage. Replace if damaged or heavily
worn.
4. Check shaft oil holes for clogging with small wire, clean as required.
INSPECTION
SHAFT -ROCKER ARMS

The rocker arm shafts are hollow and are used as lubrication oil ducts. The rocker arm and shaft assembly on
the right side of the engine has an oil passage hole from the cylinder head located at the third rocker shaft
support pedestal. The rocker arm and shaft assembly on the left side of the engine has an oil passage hole from
the cylinder head located at the second rocker shaft support pedestal.
NOTE: To prevent air ingestion into lash adjusters, avoid turning rocker arm assembly
upside down.
CAUTION: Do not allow rocker arm assembly to rest on lash adjusters, as damage
may occur to lash adjuster and plastic retainer.
The intake and exhaust rocker arms are different. They should be identified before disassembling the assembly.
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See Fig. 159.
Fig. 160: Rocker Arm Assembly

1 - RETAINER
2 - SWIVEL PAD
3 - ROLLER
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Check rocker arms for wear or damage. See Fig. 160:
Roller scuffing or wear

Shaft bore scuffing or wear
Swivel pad on lash adjuster missing or broken
Rocker arm showing signs of fatigue or cracking
Roller axle protruding from arm
Replace assembly as necessary if any rocker arms shows signs of wear.
CAUTION: Do Not remove lash adjuster from rocker arm assembly. Damage to the
adjuster and rocker arm will result.
ASSEMBLY
SHAFT -ROCKER ARMS
Fig. 161: Hydraulic Lash Adjusters, Dowel Pin, Pedestal & Roller
1 - HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTERS

2 - DOWEL PIN
3 - PEDESTAL
4 - ROLLER
CAUTION: New dowel pins must be installed when reassembling.
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1. Install the rocker arms, and pedestals (3) onto the shaft.
2. Install dowel pins (2). See Fig. 161. Dowel pins (2) pass through the pedestal (3) into the exhaust rocker
shafts. Dowel pins (2) should be pressed in until they bottom-out against the rocker shaft in the pedestal
(3).
3. Install rocker arm and shafts. See INSTALLATION.
INSTALLATION
SHAFT -ROCKER ARM

NOTE: Rocker arm and shaft assembly can be installed either prior to or after
(preferred) cylinder head installation.
1. Rotate camshaft gears to the position shown in (1,8,9). See Fig. 162. With the camshaft gears in these
positions the lobes are in a neutral position (no load to the valve). This will allow the rocker arm shaft
assembly to be tightened into position with little or no valve spring load on it.
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Fig. 163: Rocker Arm/Shaft Assembly Bolts Tightening Sequence

2. Install the rocker arm and shaft assembly making sure that the identification marks face toward the front
of engine for left head and toward the rear of the engine for right head.
3. Tighten rocker arm/shaft assembly bolts in sequence to 31 N.m (275 in. lbs.). See Fig. 163.
4. Install cylinder head covers. See INSTALLATION).
TUBE -SPARK PLUG
REMOVAL
TUBE -SPARK PLUG
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Fig. 164: Using Suitable Locking Pliers To Remove Tube From Cylinder Head
1 - SPARK PLUG TUBE

2 - LOCKING PLIERS
1. Remove cylinder head cover(s). See REMOVAL.

2. Using suitable locking pliers, remove the tube from the cylinder head and discard tube. See Fig. 164.
3. Clean area around spark plug with Mopar® Parts Cleaner or equivalent.
INSTALLATION
TUBE -SPARK PLUG
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Fig. 165: Camshaft, Rocker Arm Assembly & Cylinder Head

1 - SPARK PLUG TUBE

3 - CAMSHAFT
4 - CAMSHAFT SEAL
1. Apply Mopar® Stud and Bearing Mount to a new tube (1) approximately 1 mm (0.039 in.) from the end
of tube, in a 3 mm (0.118 in.) wide area. See Fig. 165.
2. Install sealer end of tube (1) into the cylinder head. Then carefully install the tube (1) using a hardwood
block and mallet. Install the tube (1) until it is seated into the bottom of the bore.
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3. For spark plug tube (1) seal replacement, see REMOVAL).

4. Install cylinder head cover(s). See INSTALLATION
SEAL -VALVE STEM
REMOVAL
SEAL -VALVE STEM
Fig. 166: Removing Valve Stem Seals By Using Valve Stem Seal Tool
1 - VALVE SEAL TOOL

2 - VALVE STEM
1. Remove valve spring. See REMOVAL.

2. Remove valve stem seals by using a valve stem seal tool. See Fig. 166.
INSTALLATION
SEAL -VALVE STEM
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1 - SPRING RETAINER
2 - GARTER SPRING
1. The valve stem seal/valve spring seat should be pushed firmly and squarely over the valve guide using the
valve stem as guide. Do Not Force seal against top of guide. When installing the valve retainer locks,
compress the spring only enough to install the locks.
CAUTION: Do not remove garter spring (2) around the seal at the top of the
valve stem seal. See Fig. 167.
2. Install valve spring. See INSTALLATION.
SPRING -VALVE
DESCRIPTION
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VALVE SPRING
Fig. 168: Valve Spring Identification

1 - YELLOW OR WHITE DYE

2 - ORANGE DYE
The valve springs are made from chrome silicon alloy wire and incorporate a "bee-hive" design. Valve spring
retainers and locks are common from valve-to-valve. The valve spring seat is integral with the valve stem oil
seal, which incorporates a garter spring to maintain consistent lubrication control to the valve stem.
The valve springs are unique for intake compared to exhaust. Both have different lengths and are wound in
opposite directions. The valve springs are color coded, intake spring is right hand coil direction with orange dye
on the top coils, and the exhaust spring is left hand coil direction with a yellow or white dye on the top coils.
See Fig. 168.
The exhaust spring with the white dye on the top of the coils has an increased open and closed load when
compared to the exhaust spring with the yellow dye. A yellow and a white exhaust valve spring should never
be used on a single forked rocker arm. Color coated exhaust springs should always be used in pairs for a forked
exhaust rocker springs.
OPERATION
VALVE SPRING
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The valve spring returns the valve against its seat for a positive seal of the combustion chamber.
REMOVAL
VALVE SPRING - CYLINDER HEAD ON
Fig. 169: MD 998772A, Spark Plug Tubes, Cylinder Head, 6527 - Adaptor & Valve Spring Retainer
1 - MD 998772A
2 - SPARK PLUG TUBES
3 - CYLINDER HEAD
4 - 6527 - ADAPTOR
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1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Remove upper intake manifold. See REMOVAL.
3. Remove cylinder head cover(s). See REMOVAL.
4. Remove rocker arm and shaft assembly. See REMOVAL.
5. Remove spark plugs.
6. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, until the number 1 piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the
compression stroke.
7. With air hose attached to spark plug adapter installed in number 1 spark plug hole, apply 620.5 to 689
kPa (90 to 100 psi) air pressure. This is to hold valves into place while servicing components.
8. Using Tool MD 998772A (1) with adapter 6527 (4) or equivalent, compress valve spring and remove
valve locks (5). Release tension on valve spring, remove retainer (5) and valve spring. See SPECIAL
TOOLS. . See Fig. 169.
9. Remove valve stem seal, if required. See REMOVAL.
10. Follow the same procedure on the remaining 5 cylinders using the firing sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6. Make
sure piston is at TDC in each cylinder of the valve spring that is being removed.
11. Remove spark plug adapter tool.
VALVE SPRING - CYLINDER HEAD OFF
1. Compress valve spring with valve spring compressor C-3422-D and adapter 6526. See SPECIAL
TOOLS.
2. Remove valve retaining locks. Release valve spring compressor. Remove valve spring retainer and valve
spring.
3. Remove valve stem seal assembly. See REMOVAL.
INSPECTION
VALVE SPRING - INSPECTION
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When valves have been removed for inspection, reconditioning or replacement, valve springs should be tested.
See Fig. 170. As an example; the compression length of the spring to be tested is 38.00 mm (1.496 in.). Turn
table of Tool C-647 until surface is in line with the 38.00 mm (1.496 inches.) mark on the threaded stud and the
zero mark on the front. Place spring over stud on the table and lift compressing lever to set tone device. Pull on
torque wrench until ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this instant. Multiply this reading by two.
This will give the spring load at test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer
adjustments. Refer to Engine Specifications to obtain specified height and allowable tensions. See
SPECIFICATIONS. Replace springs that do not meet specifications.
INSTALLATION
VALVE SPRING - CYLINDER HEAD OFF
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Fig. 171: Valve, Valve Retaining Locks, Valve Spring Retainer, Valve Spring & Valve Seal/Valve Spring
Seat Assembly
1 - VALVE
2 - VALVE RETAINING LOCKS
4 - VALVE SPRING
5 - VALVE SEAL AND VALVE SPRING SEAT ASSEMBLY
1. Install valves if removed.

2. Install valve stem seal/spring seat assembly (5) over valve guides on all valve stems. See Fig. 171. Ensure
that the garter spring is intact around the top of the rubber seal.
3. Place valve spring (color-coded end facing up) (4) and valve retainer into position.
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Fig. 172: Spring Retainer, Garter Spring, Valve Spring Seat Top & Cylinder Head Surface
1 - SPRING RETAINER
2 - GARTER SPRING
4. Compress valve spring with valve spring compressor. Install locks and release tool. If valve and/or seat
are reground, measure the installed height of springs (B), make sure measurements are taken from
top of spring seat to the bottom surface of spring retainer . If height is greater than 38.75 mm (1.5256
in.), install a 0.762 mm (0.030 in.) spacer in head counterbore under the valve spring seat to bring spring
height back within specification. See Fig. 172.
SPRING -VALVE - CYLINDER HEAD ON
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Fig. 173: MD 998772A, Spark Plug Tubes, Cylinder Head, 6527 - Adaptor & Valve Spring Retainer
1 - MD 998772A
2 - SPARK PLUG TUBES
3 - CYLINDER HEAD
4 - 6527 - ADAPTOR
1. Install new valve seal(s) if required. See INSTALLATION.

2. Place valve spring (color-coded end facing up) and valve retainer into position.
3. Compress valve spring using Special Tool MD 998772A (1) with Adaptor 6527 (4) only enough to install
locks (5). See Fig. 173.
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4. After installing locks, release tension on valve spring and verify proper installation.
5. Remove Special Tool MD 998772A (1) and spark plug adapter tool.
6. Install rocker arm and shaft assembly. See INSTALLATION.
7. Install cylinder head cover(s). See INSTALLATION).
8. Install spark plugs.
CYLINDER BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
BLOCK-CYLINDER
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Fig. 174: Main Caps, Bolts, Main Bearing-Lower, Crankshaft, Thrust Washers, Main Bearing-Upper &
Engine Block
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1 - MAIN CAPS
2 - BOLTS
3 - MAIN BEARING-LOWER
4 - CRANKSHAFT
5 - THRUST WASHERS
6 - MAIN BEARING-UPPER
7 - ENGINE BLOCK
The cylinder block is made of heat treated aluminum with cast-in-place iron liners. The block is a closed deck
design with the right bank forward. To provide high rigidity and improved noise, vibration and harshness
(NVH), the block has cast-in contours and ribs, along with powdered metal 6 bolt main caps (4 vertical, 2
horizontal), with a die cast aluminum structural beam windage tray mounted to the main caps. See Fig. 174.
CLEANING
BLOCK-CYLINDER
Clean cylinder block thoroughly using a suitable cleaning solvent.
INSPECTION
BLOCK-CYLINDER
ENGINE BLOCK
1. Clean cylinder block thoroughly and check all core hole plugs for evidence of leaking.
2. If new core plugs are to be installed, see ENGINE CORE AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS.
3. Examine block and cylinder bores for cracks or fractures.
4. Check block deck surfaces for flatness. Deck surface must be within service limit of 0.1 mm (0.004 in.).
CYLINDER BORE
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Fig. 175: Cylinder Bore Measurement

NOTE: The cylinder bores should be measured at normal room temperature, 21°C (70°
F).
The cylinder walls should be checked for out-of-round and taper with Tool C119 cylinder bore gauge, or
equivalent. See Fig. 175. See SPECIFICATIONS. If the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored, the
cylinder block should be replaced, and new pistons and rings fitted.
Measure the cylinder bore at three levels in directions A and B. See Fig. 175. Top measurement should be 10
mm (3/8 in.) down and bottom measurement should be 10 mm (3/8 in.) up from bottom of bore. See
SPECIFICATIONS.
BEARING -CONNECTING ROD

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STANDARD PROCEDURE
CONNECTING RODS AND BEARINGS
Fig. 176: Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance

CAUTION: The bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be paint marked or
scribed at removal to insure correct assembly. DO NOT use a metal stamp.
The bearing shells must be installed with the tangs inserted into the machined grooves in the rods and caps.
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Install cap with the tangs on the same side as the rod.
Fit all rods on one bank until complete.
Limits of out-of-round on any crankshaft journals should be held to 0.008 mm (0.0003 in.). Bearings are
available in standard, 0.025 mm (0.001 in.), and 0.254 mm (0.010 in.) undersizes. Install the bearings in pairs.
Do not use a new bearing half with an old bearing half. Do not file the rods or bearing caps.
1. For measuring main bearing clearance and connecting rod bearing clearance use plastigage. See Fig. 176.
For more information on using plastigage. See STANDARD PROCEDURE. Refer to Engine
Specifications for bearing clearance specifications . See SPECIFICATIONS.
NOTE: The rod bearing bolts should be examined before reuse. If the threads are
necked down the bolts must be replaced. See Fig. 177.
CONNECTING ROD BOLTS
Fig. 177: Examining Connecting Rod Bolts For Stretching

1 - STRETCHED BOLT
1. Examine connecting rod bolts for stretching (1). Stretching (1) can be checked by holding a scale or
straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale the bolt must be replaced.
2. Before installing the bolts the threads should be cleaned and inspected.
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3. Install clean bolts finger tight. Then alternately torque each bolt to assemble the cap properly.
4. Tighten the connecting rod cap bolts to specification. See SPECIFICATIONS.
CONNECTING ROD SIDE CLEARANCE
Fig. 178: Connecting Rod Side Clearance Measuring

1. Mount a dial indicator to a stationary point on engine. Locate probe perpendicular to and resting against
the connecting rod cap being checked. Move connecting rod all the way to rear of its travel. Zero the dial
indicator. Move connecting rod forward to limit of travel and read the dial indicator. See Fig. 178.
Compare measurement to specification listed in engine specifications. See SPECIFICATIONS. Repeat
procedure for each connecting rod. Turn crankshaft for connecting rod accessibility.
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
CRANKSHAFT
The crankshaft is constructed of a forged micro alloy steel. A six throw, nine counterweight crankshaft is
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supported by four select fit main bearings with number two serving as the thrust washer location. The six
separate connecting rod throws are an even-firing design which reduces torque fluctuations while a torsional
vibration damper is used to control torsion caused vibration of the crankshaft. Rubber lipped seals are used at
front and rear. The front seal is retained in the oil pump case and the rear seal is retained in a block-mounted
housing.
OPERATION
CRANKSHAFT
The crankshaft transfers force generated by combustion within the cylinder to the flywheel or flexplate.
REMOVAL
CRANKSHAFT - REMOVAL
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Fig. 179: Connecting Rod to Cylinder Identification

1 - PAINT MARK OR SCRIBE
1. Remove engine from vehicle. See REMOVAL.

2. Remove oil pan. See REMOVAL.
3. Remove oil pickup tube.
4. Remove front timing belt cover. See REMOVAL.
5. Remove timing belt and tensioner. See REMOVAL.
6. Remove crankshaft sprocket. See REMOVAL.
7. Tap dowel pin out of crankshaft.
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8. Remove oil pump assembly. See REMOVAL.

9. Remove crankshaft rear oil seal retainer (Refer to REMOVAL ).
CAUTION: Connecting rod bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be
paint marked or scribed before removal to insure correct assembly.
DO NOT use a metal stamp to mark the bearing caps.
10. Remove connecting rod bearing caps. See Fig. 179. See Fig. 179
Fig. 180: Main Bearing Cap Identification

WARNING: Main bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be paint
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marked or scribed before removal to insure correct assembly. DO

NOT use a metal stamp to mark the bearing caps.
11. Remove main bearing caps (1). Main bearing caps (1) are not interchangeable and are marked to insure
correct assembly. See Fig. 180. See Fig. 181
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Fig. 181: Main Caps, Bolts, Main Bearing-Lower, Crankshaft, Thrust Washers, Main Bearing-
Upper & Engine Block
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1 - MAIN CAPS
2 - BOLTS
4 - CRANKSHAFT
5 - THRUST WASHERS
7 - ENGINE BLOCK
12. Remove crankshaft (4) from cylinder block (7). See Fig. 181.
NOTE: Before installing crankshaft, refer to Fitting Main Bearings and Installation of
Connecting Rod Bearings. See STANDARD PROCEDURE for Main Bearings. .
See STANDARD PROCEDURE for Connecting Rod Bearings.
INSPECTION
CRANKSHAFT
The crankshaft journals should be checked for excessive wear, taper and scoring. Limits of taper on any
crankshaft journals should be held to 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.). Limits for journal roundness should be 0.008 mm
(0.0003 in.). Journal grinding should not exceed 0.254 mm (0.010 in.) under the standard journal diameter. DO
NOT grind thrust faces of Number 2 main bearing. DO NOT nick crank pin or bearing fillets. After grinding,
remove rough edges from crankshaft oil holes and clean out all passages. Crank journals must be polished
smooth 0.10 micronra.
CAUTION: With a forged steel crankshaft it is important that the final paper or cloth
polish after any journal regrind be in the same direction as normal rotation
in the engine.
INSTALLATION
CRANKSHAFT - INSTALLATION
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Fig. 182: Main Bearing Identification

CAUTION: Main bearings are select fit. See STANDARD PROCEDURE for proper
bearing size selection.
1. Install crankshaft upper main bearings in cylinder block. Ensure oil holes in bearings line up with oil
holes in cylinder block. See Fig. 182. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
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1 - MAIN CAPS
2 - BOLTS
4 - CRANKSHAFT
5 - THRUST WASHERS
7 - ENGINE BLOCK
NOTE: Care must be taken not to damage the journals or bearings during
crankshaft installation.
2. Install the crankshaft (4) to cylinder block (7). See Fig. 183
Fig. 184: Installing Thrust Washer

1-
FRONT
THRUST
WASHER
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3. Move crankshaft forward to limit of travel. Lubricate and install the front thrust washer (1) by rolling the
washer (1) onto the machined shelf between the No. 2 upper main bulk head and crankshaft thrust
surface. See Fig. 184.
4. Move crankshaft rearward to limit of travel. Lubricate and install the rear thrust washer by rolling the
washer onto the machined shelf between the No. 2 upper main bulk head and crankshaft thrust surface.
See Fig. 184.
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1 - MAIN CAPS
2 - BOLTS
4 - CRANKSHAFT
5 - THRUST WASHERS
7 - ENGINE BLOCK
5. Install lower main bearings (3) into main bearing caps (1). See Fig. 185.
6. Lubricate lower main bearings (3) with clean engine oil.
NOTE: Lubricate main bearing cap bolts (2) with engine oil before installation.
7. Install each main cap (1) and tighten bolts finger tight.
The main bearing cap bolts (2) must be tightened in the proper sequence. First the inner main cap bolts
(2), secondly the windage tray bolts, lastly the main cap tie (horizontal) bolts (6).
8. Install the inside main bearing cap bolts (2) and tighten to 20 N.m + 1/4 turn (15 ft. lbs. + 1/4 turn).
9. Measure crankshaft end play. Refer to CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING JOURNALS.
10. Install connecting rods and measure side clearance. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
11. Install windage tray. Lubricate bolts with engine oil and tighten to 27 N.m + 1/4 turn (20 ft. lbs. + 1/4
turn).
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12. Install the main cap tie (horizontal) bolts and tighten to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.). See Fig. 186.
13. Install rear crankshaft oil seal retainer and oil seal (Refer to INSTALLATION )
14. Install oil pump assembly. See INSTALLATION.
15. Install dowel pin in crankshaft. See INSTALLATION.
16. Install crankshaft sprocket. See INSTALLATION.
17. Install timing belt and tensioner. See INSTALLATION.
18. Install front timing belt cover. See INSTALLATION.
19. Install oil pickup tube and tighten bolt to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
20. Install oil pan. See INSTALLATION.
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21. Install engine assembly. See INSTALLATION.

22. Fill engine crankcase with proper amount of oil.
BEARING -CRANKSHAFT MAIN
STANDARD PROCEDURE
BEARING -CRANKSHAFT MAIN FITTING
Fig. 187: Engine Block Main Bore Grade

The main bearings are a "select fit" to achieve proper oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the block and
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crankshaft have grade identification marks.
The marks for the cylinder block main bore grade are located on the right front side of the engine block. See
Fig. 187. These grade marks (1, 2, or 3) are read left to right, corresponding to main bore 1, 2, 3, 4. The 5th
digit is a check some digit for plant validation during manufacturing.
Fig. 188: Crankshaft Main Journal Grade Marking Location - Rear of Block
The grade marks for the crankshaft are located on the rearmost crankshaft counter weight as shown in Fig. 188.
The crankshaft journal grade marks (A, B, or C) are read left to right, corresponding with journal number 1, 2,
3, 4.
Refer to . Refer to to properly select the main bearings. For an example, if the main bore grade is 3 and the
journal grade is B, the proper select fit bearing would be a (2) +0.003 mm (+0.0002 in.).
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Fig. 189: Main Bearing Grade Marks

1 - LOWER MAIN BEARING

2 - UPPER MAIN BEARING
3 - OIL FEED HOLE AND GROOVE
4 - GRADE SELECTION INK MARKS
NOTE: Service main bearings have a number from (1-5) marked in ink on the bearing
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surface. See Fig. 189. For verification, refer to for number to size identification.
The upper main bearing (2) has a oil feed hole and a center groove to allow lubrication of the main journal and
must be properly positioned in the block.
MAIN BEARING SELECTION CHART

Crankshaft Main Journal Main Bearing Bore Grade Marks
Grade Marks 1 2 3
Each bearing grade increment of (2) +003 mm (1) +0.006 mm
0.003 mm is for wall thickness A (3) Standard
(+0.0001 in.) (+0.0002 in.)
so diametrical clearances are
(4) -0.003 mm (- (2) +003 mm
adjusted 0.006 mm per select fit B (3) Standard
0.0001 in.) (+0.0001 in.)
class
(5) -0.006 mm (- (4) -0.003 mm (-
C (3) Standard
0.0002 in.) 0.0001 in.)
CRANKSHAFT DIAMETER
Crankshaft Diameter (mm)
Min Max Grade
63.9870 mm 63.9956 mm A
63.9957 mm 64.0042 mm B
64.0043 mm 64.0130 mm C
BLOCK MAIN BORE DIAMETER

Block Main Bore Diameter
(mm)
Min Max Grade
68.9895 mm 68.9964 mm 1
68.9965 mm 69.0034 mm 2
69.0035 mm 69.0105 mm 3
BLOCK MAIN BORE GRADE

Crankshaft Journal Grade Block Main Bore Grade
1 2 3
A Class 3 Class 2 Class 1
B Class 4 Class 3 Class 2
C Class 5 Class 4 Class 3
REMOVAL
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Bearing caps are not interchangeable and are marked to insure correct assembly. See Fig. 190. Upper and lower
bearing halves are NOT interchangeable.
1. Remove oil pan. See REMOVAL.

2. Remove oil pick-up tube and windage tray.
3. Identify bearing caps before removal. See Fig. 190.
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Fig. 191: Removing/Installing Upper Main Bearing With Special Tool C- 3059

2 - BEARING
4 - BEARING
4. Remove bearing caps one at a time. Remove upper half of bearing by inserting Main Bearing Tool C-
3059 into the oil hole of crankshaft. See Fig. 191.
5. Slowly rotate crankshaft clockwise, forcing out upper half of bearing shell.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 192: Main Bearing Identification

Bearing caps are not interchangeable and are marked to insure correct assembly. Upper and lower bearing
halves are NOT interchangeable. See Fig. 192.
CAUTION: Main bearings are select fit. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
NOTE: Only one main bearing should be selectively fitted while all other main bearing
caps are properly tightened.
When installing a new upper bearing shell, slightly chamber the sharp edges from the plain side.
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Fig. 193: Removing/Installing Upper Main Bearing With Special Tool C- 3059

2 - BEARING
4 - BEARING
1. Lubricate main bearing (4) with clean engine oil.

2. Start bearing (4) in place, and insert Main Bearing Tool C-3059 (3) into oil hole of crankshaft. See Fig.
193.
3. Slowly rotate crankshaft counterclockwise sliding the bearing into position. Remove Main Bearing Tool
C-3059.
NOTE: Lubricate main bearing cap bolts with engine oil before installation.
4. Lubricate and install lower bearing half and main cap Tighten bolts finger tight.
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Fig. 194: Installing Thrust Washer

1-
FRONT
THRUST
WASHER
5. For installing thrust washers (1) at the No. 2 main bearing location, use the following procedure:
 Move crankshaft forward to limit of travel. Lubricate and install the front thrust washer (1) by
rolling the washer onto the machined shelf between the No. 2 upper main bulk head and crankshaft
thrust surface. See Fig. 194.
 Move crankshaft rearward to limit of travel. Lubricate and install the rear thrust washer by rolling
the washer onto the machined shelf between the No. 2 upper main bulk head and crankshaft thrust
surface.
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1 - MAIN CAPS
2 - BOLTS
4 - CRANKSHAFT
5 - THRUST WASHERS
7 - ENGINE BLOCK
The main bearing cap bolts (2) must be tightened in the proper sequence. First the inner main cap bolts,
secondly the windage tray bolts, lastly the main cap tie (horizontal) bolts.
6. Install each main bearing cap (1) and tighten inner bolts finger tight.
7. Tighten inner main bearing cap bolts (2) to 20 N.m + 1/4 turn (15 ft. lbs. + 1/4 turn).
8. Measure crankshaft end play. Refer to CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING JOURNALS.
9. Install windage tray. Lubricate bolts with engine oil and tighten to 27 N.m + 1/4 turn (20 ft. lbs. + 1/4
turn).
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10. Install the main cap tie (horizontal) bolts and tighten to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.). See Fig. 196. See Fig. 195
11. Install oil pick-up tube.
12. Install oil pan. See INSTALLATION.
13. Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to correct level.
SEAL -CRANKSHAFT OIL FRONT
REMOVAL
SEAL-CRANKSHAFT OIL FRONT
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Fig. 197: Removing/Installing Crankshaft Sprocket Dowel Pin

1 - PIN PUNCH
2 - DOWEL
1. Remove the crankshaft sprocket. See REMOVAL.

2. Tap the dowel pin (2) out of the crankshaft. See Fig. 197.
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Fig. 198: Removing Crankshaft Oil Seal With Special Tool 6341A
3. Remove crankshaft seal using Tool 6341A (1). See Fig. 198.
CAUTION: Do not nick shaft seal surface or seal bore.
4. Shaft seal lip surface must be free of varnish, dirt or nicks. Polish with 400 grit paper if necessary.
INSTALLATION
SEAL-CRANKSHAFT OIL FRONT
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Fig. 199: Installing Crankshaft Oil Seal With Special Tool 6342
1. Install crankshaft seal using Special Tool 6342 (1). See Fig. 199.
2. Install the dowel pin into the crankshaft to 1.2 mm (0.047 in.) protrusion.
3. Install the crankshaft sprocket. See INSTALLATION.
SEAL - CRANKSHAFT OIL REAR
DESCRIPTION
SEAL-CRANKSHAFT OIL REAR
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Fig. 200: Seal Protector, Seal & Retainer

1 - SEAL PROTECTOR
2 - SEAL
3 - RETAINER
The rear crankshaft oil seal (2) and retainer (3) are molded and serviced as an assembly. This assembly also
includes a separate rear crankshaft seal protector (1) that should not be removed before the seal is installed on
the engine block. Once the seal protector (1) is separated from the assembly it can not be re-installed on the
assembly or reused.
REMOVAL
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Fig. 201: Crankshaft, Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal, Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Retainer & Engine Block
1 - CRANKSHAFT
2 - REAR CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL
3 - REAR CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL RETAINER
4 - ENGINE BLOCK
1. Remove the engine oil pan. See REMOVAL.

2. Lower the weight of the engine back onto the engine mounts.
3. Remove transmission from vehicle.
4. Remove the flex plate.
5. Remove the rear crankshaft oil seal retainer bolts.
6. Remove the crankshaft oil seal and clean all mating surfaces.
INSTALLATION
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CAUTION: If a burr or scratch is present on the crankshaft edge (chamfer), clean

surface using 400 grit sand paper to prevent seal damage during
installation. Make sure the rear crankshaft oil seal surface is clean and free
of any abrasive materials.
NOTE: The rear crankshaft oil seal and retainer are an assembly. DO NOT separate the
seal protector from the rear crankshaft oil seal before installation on engine.
Damage to the seal lip will occur if the seal protector is removed and installed
prior to installation on engine.
1. Apply engine oil to crankshaft seal surface.
Fig. 202: Seal Protector, Seal & Retainer

1 - SEAL PROTECTOR
2 - SEAL
3 - RETAINER
2. If the seal protector (1) is missing or was accidentally dislodged, go to step 3. Otherwise, carefully
position the oil seal retainer assembly (3), and seal protector (1) on crankshaft and push firmly into place
on engine block (during this step, the seal protector will be pushed from the rear oil seal assembly as a
result of installing the rear oil seal). Hand tighten the rear oil seal fasteners, and go to step 4.
NOTE: The seal lip (2) must always uniformly curl inward toward the engine on
the crankshaft (1).
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Fig. 203: Rear Seal Installed

CAUTION: If for any reason the installation sleeve is missing or dislodged from
rear crankshaft oil seal prior to installation, the following procedure
must be performed.
Fig. 204: Tapered End & Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Assembly
3. Using the chamfered seal guide from Special Tool 6926, insert the tapered end (1) into the transmission
side of the rear crankshaft oil seal assembly (2), and push the seal guide through the seal assembly. This
will ensure the seal lip is positioned toward the engine when the seal assembly is installed. When the seal
lip is correctly positioned, go to step 2.
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Fig. 205: Rear Crankshaft Seal Retainer Alignment

1 - SEAL RETAINER
2 - SPECIAL TOOLS 8225
NOTE: The following steps must be performed to prevent oil leaks at sealing
joints.
4. Attach Special Tools 8225 (1) to pan rail using the oil pan fasteners.
NOTE: Special Tools 8225 (1), are use to assist with the fit of the flush mount rear
main seal retainer. The notch on tool should be located away the seal
retainer.
5. While applying firm pressure to the seal retainer against Special Tools 8225 (1), tighten seal retainer
screws to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
6. Remove special tool #8225 (1).
NOTE: Make sure that the seal flange is flush with the block oil pan sealing
surface.
7. Install oil pan. Tighten the 6mm fasteners to 12N.m (105 in.lbs.) and the 8mm fasteners to 28N.m (250
in.lbs.).
8. Install the flex plate and transmission.
PLATE - FLEX
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REMOVAL
PLATE - FLEX
Fig. 206: Removing/Installing Flex Plate

1 - FLEX PLATE
2 - BOLT (QTY. 8)
3 - BACKING PLATE
1. Remove the transmission.

2. Remove flex plate attaching bolts (2).
3. Remove the flex plate (1). See Fig. 206.
INSTALLATION
PLATE-FLEX
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Fig. 207: Removing/Installing Flex Plate

1 - FLEX PLATE
2 - BOLT (QTY. 8)
3 - BACKING PLATE
1. Position flex plate (1) with backing plate (3) on the crankshaft. See Fig. 207.
2. Apply Mopar® Lock & Seal Adhesive to the flex plate bolts (2).
3. Install flex plate bolts (2). See Fig. 207. Tighten bolts to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
ROD - PISTON & CONNECTING
DESCRIPTION
ROD-PISTON & CONNECTING
The pistons are made of a high strength aluminum alloy. Top land height has been decreased to reduce
emissions. Piston skirts are coated with a solid lubricant for scuff resistance. Connecting rod is forged steel with
a fractured connecting rod cap design. The connecting rod is also equipped with a squirt hole and attaches to the
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piston with a full floating pin retained by lock rings.
OPERATION
The piston and connecting rod assembly is the link between the combustion force and the crankshaft.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
FITTING PISTONS
Fig. 208: Piston Measurements

The pistons are machined to two different weight specifications and matched to rods based on weight. All piston
and rod assemblies weigh the same to maintain engine balance.
Piston and cylinder wall must be clean and dry. Piston diameter should be measured 90° to piston pin at size
location shown in Fig. 208. Cylinder bores should be measured halfway down the cylinder bore and transverse
to the engine crankshaft center line. See SPECIFICATIONS. Pistons and cylinder bores should be
measured at normal room temperature, 70°F (21°C).
REMOVAL
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Fig. 209: Connecting Rod to Cylinder Identification

1 - PAINT MARK OR SCRIBE
1. Remove the cylinder heads. See REMOVAL.

2. Remove the oil pan. See REMOVAL.
3. Remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons from cylinder
block. Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered during this operation. Pistons and connecting rods
must be removed from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies
from the engine, rotate crankshaft so that each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.
CAUTION: DO NOT stamp the connecting rods for cylinder identification

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4. Inspect connecting rods and connecting rod caps for cylinder identification. Identify them with a paint
mark or scribe, if necessary. See Fig. 209.
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Fig. 210: Installing Piston & Connecting Rod

5. Remove connecting rod cap. Install protectors, tool 8189, on connecting rod. See Fig. 210. Guide each
piston and rod assembly out of cylinder bore.
NOTE: Be careful not to nick crankshaft journals.
6. After removal, install bearing cap on the mating rod.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 211: Checking Connecting Rod Bolts For Necking

1 - STRETCHED BOLT
1. Install the piston rings. See INSTALLATION.
NOTE: The connecting rod bearing cap bolts must be examined before reuse. If
the threads are necked down, the bolts must be replaced.
2. Check connecting rod bolts for necking by holding a scale or straight edge against the threads. If all
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threads do not contact the scale, the bolt must be replaced. See Fig. 211.
Fig. 212: Ensuring Compression Ring Gaps Are Staggered

1 - SIDE RAIL UPPER

2 - NO. 1 RING GAP
3 - PISTON PIN
4 - SIDE RAIL LOWER
3. Before installing pistons and connecting rod assemblies into the bore, ensure that compression ring gaps
are staggered so that neither is in line with oil ring rail gap. See Fig. 212.
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Fig. 213: Identifying Piston & Connecting Rod

4. Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil, slide the ring compressor over the piston and
tighten with the special wrench. See Fig. 213. Ensure position of rings does not change during this
operation.
5. Install connecting rod bolt protectors, special tool # 8189. See Fig. 213.
6. Rotate crankshaft so that the connecting rod journal is on the center of the cylinder bore. Insert the rod
and piston into cylinder bore and guide the rod over the crankshaft journal.
CAUTION: Do Not interchange piston assemblies cylinder-to-cylinder or bank-

to-bank.
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Fig. 214: Piston Orientation

1 - ARROW FACES FRONT OF ENGINE
7. The arrow on top of piston must be pointing toward front of engine. See Fig. 214
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Fig. 215: Piston & Connecting Rod Positioning

1 - MAJOR THRUST SIDE OF PISTON

2 - OIL SQUIRT HOLE
CAUTION: View of connecting rod oil squirt hole is from the front of the engine.
8. The oil squirt hole on connecting rod faces the major thrust side of the cylinder bore. See Fig. 215.
NOTE: Make sure the rod bearings are seated with the oil squirt hole aligned.
9. Tap the piston down in cylinder bore, using a hammer handle. At the same time, guide connecting rod
into position on connecting rod journal.
NOTE: Connecting rod bolts must be lubricated with clean engine oil.
10. Install the rod caps. Install cleaned and inspected connecting rod bolts and tighten to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.)
Plus 1/4 turn.
11. Install the cylinder head(s). See INSTALLATION.
12. Install the oil pan. See INSTALLATION.
RING - PISTON
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DESCRIPTION
RING - PISTON
Fig. 216: Piston Rings

1 - TOP PISTON RING

2 - CHROME INTERMEDIATE PISTON RING
3 - MICRO-NAPIER INTERMEDIATE PISTON RING
4 - OIL CONTROL RINGS
5 - SPACER
The piston rings include a moly-filled top ring with a symmetric barrel face. The intermediate piston ring is of
the standard chrome design OR Micro-Napier design. The Micro-Napier design has a reduced "hook" on the
running face, removes the need for chroming and improves oil economy. The oil control package consists of
two steel rails and an expander spacer. See Fig. 216.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
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PISTON RING FITTING
Fig. 217: Checking Piston Rings Gap

1 - FEELER GAUGE
1. Wipe cylinder bore clean. Insert ring and push down with piston to ensure it is square in bore. The ring
gap measurement must be made with the ring positioning at least 12 mm (0.50 in.) from bottom of
cylinder bore. Check gap with feeler gauge. See Fig. 217. For clearance specifications, see
SPECIFICATIONS.
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Fig. 218: Checking Piston Ring To Groove Clearance

1 - FEELER GAUGE
2. Check piston ring to groove clearance: See Fig. 218. For clearance specifications, see
SPECIFICATIONS.
REMOVAL
RING - PISTON
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Fig. 219: Removing/Installing No. 1 And No.2 Piston Rings From Piston Using Ring Expander Tool
1. Remove piston and connecting rod. See REMOVAL.

2. Remove No. 1 and No.2 piston rings from piston using a ring expander tool. See Fig. 219.
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Fig. 220: Removing Upper Oil Control Ring Side Rail, Lower Oil Control Ring Side Rail & Oil
Control Ring Expander
1 - TOP PISTON RING

5 - SPACER
3. Remove upper oil control ring side rail. See Fig. 220.
4. Remove lower oil control ring side rail. See Fig. 220.
5. Remove oil control ring expander. See Fig. 220
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INSTALLATION
RING - PISTON
Fig. 221: Piston Rings

1 - TOP PISTON RING

5 - SPACER
1. Measure clearance of piston rings to the cylinder bore and piston. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a different cross section. See Fig. 221. Insure that which ever
design No. 2 ring is installed, it is installed with manufacturers I.D. mark (dot) facing up, towards top of
the piston. See DESCRIPTION. . See Fig. 221.
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Fig. 222: Installing Side Rail

1 - SIDE RAIL END
CAUTION: Install piston rings in the following order:
Oil ring expander.

Lower oil control ring side rail.
Upper oil control ring side rail.
No. 2 Intermediate piston ring.
No. 1 Upper piston ring.
2. Install the side rail by placing one end between the piston ring groove and the spacer. Hold end firmly and
press down the portion to be installed until side rail is in position. Do not use a piston ring expander
tool during this step. See Fig. 222.
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Fig. 223: Removing/Installing No. 1 And No.2 Piston Rings From Piston Using Ring Expander Tool
3. Install lower side rail first and then the upper side rail.
The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a different cross section. See Fig. 223. Insure that which ever
design No. 2 ring is installed, it is installed with manufacturers I.D. mark (dot) facing up, towards top of
the piston. See DESCRIPTION.
4. Install No. 2 piston ring and then No. 1 piston ring. See Fig. 223.
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Fig. 224: Piston Ring End Gap Position

1 - SIDE RAIL UPPER

2 - NO. 1 RING GAP
3 - PISTON PIN
4 - SIDE RAIL LOWER
5. Position piston ring end gaps as shown in Fig. 224.

6. Position oil control ring expander gap at least 45° from the side rail gaps but not on the piston pin center
or on the thrust direction. Staggering ring gap is important for oil control.
DAMPER - CRANKSHAFT
REMOVAL
DAMPER-CRANKSHAFT
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1 - GENERATOR
2 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - A/C COMPRESSOR

2. Remove the accessory drive belt (7) (Refer to REMOVAL ).
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Fig. 226: Using 1023 Puller And 9020-R To Remove Crankshaft Damper
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 1023 PULLER

2 - SPECIAL TOOL 9020-R INSERT

5. Use 1023 puller, and insert 9020-R, remove crankshaft damper.
INSTALLATION
DAMPER-CRANKSHAFT
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Fig. 227: Installing Crankshaft Damper Using Special Tools C-4685-C1 Bolt With Nut And Thrust
Bearing From 6792, And 6792-1 Installer
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6792-1

2 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4685-C1
1. Install crankshaft damper using Special Tools C-4685-C1 (5.9 in.) Bolt, with Nut and Thrust Bearing
from 6792, and 6792-1 Installer.
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Fig. 228: Installing Crankshaft Damper Bolt

2. Install crankshaft damper bolt. Torque bolt to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.) while holding damper with Special
Tool 9365.
3. Lower vehicle.
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1 - GENERATOR
2 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - A/C COMPRESSOR
4. Install accessory drive belt (7).

ENGINE MOUNTING
DESCRIPTION
ENGINE MOUNTS
The engine mounting system are of molded rubber material and consist of two mounts; right and a left side
support the powertrain, and control powertrain torque.
MOUNT -LEFT
REMOVAL
MOUNT-LEFT
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Fig. 230: Left Engine Mount


3. Remove both engine mount to frame nuts and remove the left engine mount bolts (2).
4. Using a suitable jack and a block of wood under the oil pan, raise the engine until the weight is off of the
mounts (approximately 5mm).
5. Remove the engine mount bolts and remove the mount.
INSTALLATION
MOUNT-LEFT
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Fig. 231: Left Engine Mount

1. Install the left mount (1) to the engine mounting bracket. Hand tighten fasteners.
2. Tighten the engine mount to mounting bracket fasteners (2) to 75 N.m (55 ft.lbs.).
3. Lower the engine and remove lifting device.
4. Install the left engine mount to frame fasteners and tighten both to 75 N.m (55 ft. lbs.).
MOUNT - RIGHT
REMOVAL
ENGINE MOUNT - RIGHT
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Fig. 232: Right Engine Mount


3. Remove both of the engine mount to frame fasteners.
4. Using a suitable jack stand and a block of wood positioned under the oil pan, raise the engine until the
weight is off of the mounts (approximately 5 mm.).
5. Remove both of the engine mount to bracket bolts (2).
6. Remove the engine mount (1).
INSTALLATION
ENGINE MOUNT - RIGHT
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Fig. 233: Right Engine Mount

1. Install the engine mount (1) to the engine bracket. Tighten bolts (2) to 54 N.m (40 lbs. ft.).
2. Lower the engine and remove the lifting devise.
3. Install the right engine mount to frame fasteners and tighten both to 75 N.m (55 lbs. ft.).
MOUNT - REAR
REMOVAL
ENGINE MOUNT - REAR
NOTE: A resilient rubber cushion supports the transmission at the rear between the
transmission extension housing and the rear support crossmember or skid
plate.

2. Raise the vehicle and support the transmission.
3. Remove the nuts holding the support cushion to the crossmember. Remove the crossmember.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
Remove the support cushion nuts and remove the cushion.

Remove the transmission support bracket bolts and remove the bracket from the transmission.
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Remove the support cushion bolts and remove the cushion and the support bracket from the transmission
(4WD) or from the adaptor bracket (2WD).
On 2WD vehicles, remove the bolts holding the transmission support adaptor bracket to the transmission.
Remove the adaptor bracket.
INSTALLATION
ENGINE MOUNT - REAR
MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
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Fig. 234: Transmission Mount - 2.4L Manual Trans

2 - MOUNTING BOLT
Fig. 235: Transmission Mount - 3.7L Manual Trans 2WD

1 - NUT
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2 - BOLT
3 - TRANS MOUNT
1. Install the transmission mount (1) to the transmission. Install the bolts (2) and tighten.
3. Install crossmember-to-sill bolts and tighten to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.)
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:
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1 - BOLT
2 - MOUNT

1 - MOUNT
2 - BOLT
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1. Install the transmission mount to transmission and See Fig. 236 and Fig. 237. Install the bolts.
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Fig. 238: Oil Lubrication System

1 - CRANKSHAFT 9 - PEDESTAL DRILLED PASSAGE

2 - OUTER ROTOR 10 - EXHAUST ROCKER SHAFT
3 - INNER ROTOR 11 - SHAFT/PEDESTAL DOWEL PASSAGE
4 - RELIEF VALVE 12 - CAMSHAFT BEARING BORE
5 - OIL PAN 13 - CYLINDER BLOCK OIL GALLERY
6 - OIL SCREEN 14 - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
7 - OIL PUMP CASE 15 - HEAD BOLT HOLE
8 - OIL FLOWS TO ONLY ONE PEDESTAL ON 16 - INTAKE ROCKER SHAFT
EACH HEAD - SECOND FROM REAR ON
RIGHT HEAD - SECOND FROM FRONT ON
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LEFT HEAD
The oil lubrication system is a full-flow filtration, pressure feed type. The oil pump body is mounted to the
engine block. The pump inner rotor is driven by the crankshaft. A windage tray, increases power by minimizing
oil windage at high engine RPM. For increased oil cooling, an oil pan mounted, oil-to-coolant oil cooler is used.
See Fig. 238.
OPERATION
ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Fig. 239: Oil Lubrication System

1 - CRANKSHAFT 9 - PEDESTAL DRILLED PASSAGE

2 - OUTER ROTOR 10 - EXHAUST ROCKER SHAFT
3 - INNER ROTOR 11 - SHAFT/PEDESTAL DOWEL PASSAGE
4 - RELIEF VALVE 12 - CAMSHAFT BEARING BORE
5 - OIL PAN 13 - CYLINDER BLOCK OIL GALLERY
6 - OIL SCREEN 14 - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
7 - OIL PUMP CASE 15 - HEAD BOLT HOLE
8 - OIL FLOWS TO ONLY ONE PEDESTAL ON 16 - INTAKE ROCKER SHAFT
EACH HEAD - SECOND FROM REAR ON
RIGHT HEAD - SECOND FROM FRONT ON
LEFT HEAD
Engine oil stored in the oil pan (5) is drawn in and discharged by a gear rotor type oil pump (2, 3). The oil pump
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is directly coupled to the crankshaft (1). Oil pressure is regulated by a relief valve (4). The oil is fed through an
oil filter and to the crankshaft journals from the oil gallery (8) in the cylinder block. This gallery also feeds oil
under pressure to the cylinder heads. Oil flows through each cylinder heads oil passage to the rocker shafts (10,
16). Oil then feeds the camshaft journals (12), rocker arms, and hydraulic lash adjusters. See Fig. 239.
CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
Check oil pressure using a gauge at oil pressure switch location.
1. Remove the oil pressure switch (1) (Refer to REMOVAL ).

2. Install oil pressure test gauge, C-3292 with Adapter 8406. For Special Tool identification, (Refer to
SPECIAL TOOLS ).
CAUTION: If oil pressure is 0 at idle, Do Not Run engine at 3000 RPM.
3. Warm engine to normal operating temperature.

4. Monitor gauge readings at idle and 3000 RPM. For specifications (Refer to SPECIFICATIONS ).
OIL
DESCRIPTION
ENGINE OIL
For engine oil type and capacity. Refer to DESCRIPTION .
STANDARD PROCEDURE
OIL LEVEL CHECK
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Fig. 240: 4.0L ENGINE

The best time to check engine oil level is after the engine has sat overnight, or if the engine has been running,
allow the engine to be shut off for at least 5 minutes before checking oil level.
Checking the oil while the vehicle is on level ground will improve the accuracy of the oil level reading. Add oil
only when the level is at, or below, the ADD mark on the indicator.
ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in the Maintenance Schedule. Refer to
DESCRIPTION .
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID
PROLONGED OR REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY INTERNAL
COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY
WASH EXPOSED SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH SKIN
WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR SOLVENTS, HEALTH
PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED
ENGINE OIL PROPERLY. CONTACT YOUR DEALER OR GOVERNMENT
AGENCY FOR LOCATION OF COLLECTION CENTER IN YOUR AREA.
TO CHANGE ENGINE OIL
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1. Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.

2. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
3. Open hood, remove engine oil fill cap. See Fig. 241.

5. Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
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6. Remove oil pan drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug and gasket if damaged.
7. Remove oil filter (2). See Fig. 242.
8. Install drain plug in crankcase. Torque oil pan drain plug to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
9. Install new oil filter (2). See Fig. 242.

10. Lower vehicle.

11. Fill crankcase with specified amount and type of engine oil. (Refer to ENGINE OIL )
12. Install oil fill cap. See Fig. 243.
13. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
14. Stop engine and inspect oil level.
OIL FILTER SPECIFICATION
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-flow, disposable type oil filter. When replacing oil filter, use a
Mopar® filter or equivalent.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle engine. Refer
to the WARNING above.
COOLER-ENGINE OIL
DESCRIPTION
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COOLER-ENGINE OIL
The engine oil cooler (1) is a oil-to-coolant type and is mounted between the oil filter and the oil pan.
OPERATION
COOLER-ENGINE OIL
Engine oil travels from the oil cooler and into the oil filter. Engine oil then exits the filter into the main gallery.
Engine coolant flows into the cooler from the heater return tube and exits into the water inlet tube.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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3. Disconnect coolant hose (3) from oil cooler (1).

4. Disconnect coolant hoses (2) from oil cooler (1).

5. Remove oil filter.
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6. Remove oil cooler attaching fastener from center of oil cooler.

7. Remove oil cooler (1).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION

1. Position oil cooler to fitting on oil pan.
NOTE: Remove all oil and debris from the seal retainer surface. The cut out
section of the oil cooler seal retainer flange (top), must be aligned with the
tab on the oil pan. The oil cooler must be prevented from turning during
the tightening sequence.
2. Install oil cooler (1) attaching fastener and tighten to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
3. Install oil filter and tighten to 12 N.m (106 in. lbs.).
4. Connect coolant hose (2) to oil cooler (1).
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5. Connect coolant hose (3) to oil cooler (1).

6. Fill cooling system.
FILTER-OIL
REMOVAL
FILTER-OIL
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NOTE: When servicing the oil filter, avoid deforming the filter can. Install the
remove/install tool band strap against the base lock seam. The lock seam
joining the can to the base is reinforced by the base plate.
1. Using a suitable oil filter wrench, unscrew filter (2) from base and discard.
INSTALLATION
FILTER-OIL
1. Wipe base clean, then inspect gasket contact surface.

2. Lubricate gasket of new filter (2) with clean engine oil.
3. Install and tighten filter to 12 N.m (106 in. lbs.) of torque after gasket contacts base. Use filter wrench if
necessary.
PAN - OIL
REMOVAL
OIL PAN-REMOVAL
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2. Remove engine oil indicator.
4. Drain engine oil and remove the oil filter (Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE ).
5. Remove the oil filter, oil cooler mounting stud and set oil cooler aside (Refer to REMOVAL ).
6. Remove the flex plate access cover (1).
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Fig. 252: Removing Two Rear Oil Pan Bolts

1 - REAR MAIN SEAL RETAINER

2 - OIL PAN
3 - BOLT
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7. Remove the two rear oil pan bolts (3).
Fig. 253: Oil Pan, Bolt, Fastener, Gasket & Engine Block
1 - OIL PAN
2 - BOLT
3 - FASTENER
4 - GASKET
5 - ENGINE BLOCK
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8. Remove the remaining oil pan bolts and nuts.

9. Loosen the engine mount bolts at the cradle.
10. Raise and support the engine using a suitable floor jack with a block of wood at the transmission housing.
11. Remove the oil pan (1).
NOTE: A small amount of oil will remain in the oil pan. Use care when removing
the oil pan from the engine.
12. Clean all mating surfaces.
INSTALLATION
OIL PAN-INSTALLATION
Fig. 254: Applying 1/8 Inch Bead Of Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II At Parting Line Of Oil Pump Housing
And Rear Seal Retainer
1. Clean oil pan and all gasket surfaces.

2. Apply a 1/8 inch bead of Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II at the parting line of the oil pump housing and the
rear seal retainer. See Fig. 254
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Fig. 255: Oil Pan, Bolt, Fastener, Gasket & Engine Block
1 - OIL PAN
2 - BOLT
3 - FASTENER
4 - GASKET
5 - ENGINE BLOCK
3. Install oil pan gasket to the engine block. See Fig. 255.
4. Install the oil pan while aligning the oil level indicator tube and attach fasteners finger tight.
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Fig. 256: Oil Pan Alignment

1 - TIGHTEN FIRST
2 - TIGHTEN SECOND
3 - TIGHTEN LAST
NOTE: Assure that the rear face of the oil pan is flush to the transmission bell
housing when installing the oil pan.
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5. Pre-torque the horizontal rear oil pan to transmission bolts to 1.4 N.m (12 in. lbs.).
6. First tighten the M8 (1) oil pan alignment bolt to 28N.m (250 lbs. in.), then tighten bolt (2) to 28N.m (250
lbs. in.). See Fig. 256.
7. Tighten the remaining M8 bolts and M8 nuts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.), and the M6 bolts to 12 N.m (105 in.
lbs.). See Fig. 256.
8. Tighten the four M10 oil pan to transmission bolts to 55 N.m (40 ft.lbs.).
9. Lower the engine and remove the lifting fixture. Tighten the engine mount to cradle fasteners to 75 N.m
(55 lbs. ft.).

10. Install the flex plate inspection cover (1) and tighten the fastener (2) to 11 N.m (97 in. lbs.). See Fig. 257.
11. Install the oil cooler (align the oil cooler notch to oil pan tab (Refer to INSTALLATION ).
12. Install the engine oil filter. Tighten filter to 12 N.m (106 in. lbs.).
13. Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to correct level.
SWITCH-OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
REMOVAL

2. Position an oil collecting container under switch location.
3. Disconnect electrical connector.
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4. Unscrew oil pressure switch.
INSTALLATION
1. Apply Mopar® Thread Sealant to the switch threads.

2. Install oil pressure switch to fitting.
3. Connect electrical connector.
4. Lower vehicle.
6. Check engine oil level and adjust as necessary.
PUMP - OIL
REMOVAL
PUMP-OIL
Fig. 258: Oil Pump & Gasket

1 - OIL PUMP
2 - GASKET
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1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .

2. Remove the timing belt. See REMOVAL.
3. Remove the crankshaft sprocket. See REMOVAL.
4. Remove the oil pan. See REMOVAL.
Fig. 259: Oil Pick Up Tube With Strainer, Bolt, O-Ring, Oil Pump & Windage Tray
1 - OIL PICK UP TUBE WITH STRAINER

2 - BOLT
3 - O-RING
4 - OIL PUMP
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5 - WINDAGE TRAY
5. Remove the oil pickup tube. See Fig. 259.
Fig. 260: Crankshaft, Dowel, Gasket, Oil Pump, Front Crankshaft Seal, Crankshaft Gear & Pin
1 - CRANKSHAFT
2 - DOWEL
3 - GASKET
4 - OIL PUMP
5 - FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL
6 - CRANKSHAFT GEAR
7 - PIN
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6. Remove the oil pump fasteners. Remove the oil pump and gasket from engine. See Fig. 260.
DISASSEMBLY
PUMP-OIL
Fig. 261: Oil Pump Body, Oil Pump Outer Rotor, Screws, Oil Pump Cover & Oil Pump Inner Rotor
1 - OIL PUMP BODY

2 - OIL PUMP OUTER ROTOR
3 - SCREWS
4 - OIL PUMP COVER
5 - OIL PUMP INNER ROTOR
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1. Remove oil pump cover screws (3) and lift off cover (4). See Fig. 261.
2. Remove pump rotors (2, 5).
3. Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect carefully for damage or wear.
CLEANING
PUMP-OIL
1. Clean all parts thoroughly in a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
PUMP-OIL
NOTE: DO NOT inspect the oil relief valve assembly. If the oil relief valve is suspect,
replace the oil pump.
Fig. 262: Checking Oil Pump Cover Flatness

1 - STRAIGHT EDGE
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2 - FEELER GAUGE
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
1. Disassemble oil pump. See DISASSEMBLY.

2. Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of the oil pump housing should be smooth. Replace pump
cover if scratched or grooved.
3. Lay a straightedge (1) across the pump cover (3) surface. If a 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) feeler gauge can be
inserted between cover and straight edge, cover should be replaced. See Fig. 262.
Fig. 263: Measuring Thickness And Diameter Of Outer Rotor

4. Measure thickness and diameter of outer rotor. If outer rotor thickness measures 14.299 mm (0.563 in.) or
less , or if the diameter is 79.78 mm (3.141 inches.) or less, replace outer rotor. See Fig. 263.
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Fig. 264: Measuring Inner Rotor Thickness

5. If inner rotor measures 14.299 mm (0.563 in.) or less replace inner rotor. See Fig. 264.
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Fig. 265: Measuring Outer Rotor Clearance In Housing

1 - FEELER GAUGE
2 - OUTER ROTOR
6. Slide outer rotor (2) into body, press to one side with fingers and measure clearance between rotor and
body. If measurement is 0.39 mm (0.015 inch.) or more, replace body only if outer rotor is in
specifications. See Fig. 265.
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Fig. 266: Measuring Clearance Between Rotors

1 - FEELER GAUGE
2 - OUTER ROTOR
3 - INNER ROTOR
7. Install inner rotor into body. If clearance between inner (3) and outer rotors (2) is 0.20 mm (0.008 inch.)
or more, replace both rotors. See Fig. 266.
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Fig. 267: Measuring Clearance Over Rotors

1 - STRAIGHT EDGE
2 - FEELER GAUGES
8. Place a straightedge (1) across the face of the body, between bolt holes. If a feeler gauge of 0.077 mm
(0.003 in.) or more can be inserted between rotors and the straightedge, replace pump assembly. See Fig.
267. ONLY if rotors are in specs.
9. Assemble oil pump. See ASSEMBLY.
ASSEMBLY
PUMP-OIL
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Fig. 268: Oil Pump Body, Oil Pump Outer Rotor, Screws, Oil Pump Cover & Oil Pump Inner Rotor
1 - OIL PUMP BODY

2 - OIL PUMP OUTER ROTOR
3 - SCREWS
4 - OIL PUMP COVER
5 - OIL PUMP INNER ROTOR
1. Assemble oil pump using new parts as required.

2. Tighten cover screws (3) to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.). See Fig. 268.
3. Prime oil pump before installation by filling rotor cavity with engine oil.
4. If oil pressure is low and pump is within specifications, inspect for worn engine bearings or other reasons
for oil pressure loss.
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INSTALLATION
PUMP-OIL
Fig. 269: Crankshaft, Dowel, Gasket, Oil Pump, Front Crankshaft Seal, Crankshaft Gear & Pin
1 - CRANKSHAFT
2 - DOWEL
3 - GASKET
4 - OIL PUMP
5 - FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL
6 - CRANKSHAFT GEAR
7 - PIN
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1. Prime oil pump (4) before installation by filling rotor cavity with clean engine oil.
2. Install oil pump (4) and gasket (3) carefully over the crankshaft. Position pump onto block and tighten
bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
Fig. 270: Oil Pick Up Tube With Strainer, Bolt, O-Ring, Oil Pump & Windage Tray
1 - OIL PICK UP TUBE WITH STRAINER

2 - BOLT
3 - O-RING
4 - OIL PUMP
5 - WINDAGE TRAY
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3. Install new O-ring (3) on oil pickup tube (1).

4. Install oil pickup tube (1).
5. Install oil pan. (Refer to INSTALLATION )
6. Install crankshaft sprocket. (Refer to INSTALLATION )
7. Install timing belt. (Refer to INSTALLATION )
8. Install the timing belt covers. (Refer to INSTALLATION for Front and INSTALLATION for Rear )

1 - GENERATOR
2 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - A/C COMPRESSOR
9. Install the crankshaft vibration damper (4). (Refer to INSTALLATION )

10. Install the accessory drive belt (7). (Refer to INSTALLATION )
11. Fill the cooling system. (Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE )
12. Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to the correct level.
MANIFOLDS
MANIFOLD - INTAKE
REMOVAL
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INTAKE MANIFOLD-LOWER
Fig. 272: Lower Intake Manifold

1 - LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD

2 - GASKET
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1. Perform fuel pressure release procedure. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .

2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing.
5. Reposition power steering fluid reservoir and bracket.
6. Disconnect the electrical connectors to fuel injectors and coolant temperature sensor.
Fig. 273: Coolant Pipe, Heater Hose & Coolant Reservoir Hose
1 - COOLANT PIPE
2 - HEATER HOSE
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3 - COOLANT RESERVOIR HOSE
7. Disconnect heater hose from the rear intake manifold. See Fig. 273.
8. Disconnect the coolant container hose at the rear intake manifold. See Fig. 273.
Fig. 274: Fuel Rail, Ignition Coil, Lower Intake Manifold & PCV Valve
1 - FUEL RAIL
2 - IGNITION COIL
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4 - PCV VALVE
9. Disconnect the fuel supply hose from fuel rail (Refer to FUEL LINES ). See Fig. 274.
10. Remove the bolts attaching fuel rail.
11. Remove fuel rail and injectors as an assembly.
12. Remove bolts attaching lower intake and remove intake manifold. See Fig. 272.
MANIFOLD-INTAKE-UPPER
Fig. 275: Removing/Installing Inlet Hose And IAT Sensor Harness Connector

2. Disconnect the IAT sensor electrical connector.
3. Remove air inlet hose from the throttle body. See Fig. 275.
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Fig. 276: Locating Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

4. Disconnect the MAP sensor electrical connector.
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Fig. 277: PCV Hose, Purge Hose, Brake Booster Hose, Throttle Bracket & Electronic Throttle
Control
1 - PCV HOSE
2 - PURGE HOSE
3 - BRAKE BOOSTER HOSE
4 - THROTTLE BRACKET
5 - ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL
5. Separate the engine electrical harness connectors from the intake manifold.
6. Disconnect the EGR tube, PCV, Purge and power brake booster vacuum hoses from the upper intake
manifold.
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7. Disconnect the electronic throttle control electrical connector.

8. Remove the throttle bracket (4) fasteners from the throttle body and cylinder head.
Fig. 278: Identifying Manifold Tuning Valve & Short Runner Valve
1 - Manifold Tuning Valve

2 - Short Runner Valve
9. Disconnect electrical connectors from the Manifold Tuning Valve (MTV) and Short Runner Valve.
10. Remove the right intake manifold support brackets.
11. Remove the upper intake manifold retaining bolts, insulation foam pad and manifold. Clean all gasket
sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATION
INTAKE MANIFOLD-LOWER
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Fig. 279: Lower Intake Manifold Tightening Sequence

1. Clean all sealing surfaces.

2. Position new gaskets and intake manifold on cylinder head surfaces.
3. Install intake manifold bolts and gradually tighten in sequence shown until a torque of 28 N.m (250 in.
lbs.) is obtained. See Fig. 279.
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Fig. 280: Fuel Rail, Ignition Coil, Lower Intake Manifold & PCV Valve
1 - FUEL RAIL
2 - IGNITION COIL
4 - PCV VALVE
4. Install fuel rail and injectors as an assembly. See Fig. 280, refer to INSTALLATION .
5. Connect fuel supply hose to fuel rail. (Refer to FUEL SYSTEM )
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Fig. 281: Coolant Pipe, Heater Hose & Coolant Reservoir Hose
1 - COOLANT PIPE
2 - HEATER HOSE
3 - COOLANT RESERVOIR HOSE
6. Connect heater hose to rear lower intake manifold. See Fig. 281.
7. Connect coolant container hose to the rear lower intake manifold. See Fig. 281.
8. Connect electrical connectors to fuel injectors and coolant temperature sensor.
9. Install power steering fluid reservoir and bracket.
11. Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing.
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12. Fill the cooling system.
MANIFOLD-INTAKE-UPPER
Fig. 282: Throttle Body Bracket

1. Clean and inspect gasket sealing surfaces.

2. Position new gasket.
3. Install the upper intake manifold insulator foam.
4. Install the upper intake manifold. Tighten bolts to 12 N.m (105 in.lbs.) starting in the center working
outward in a cross sequence pattern.
5. Install the right manifold support brackets. Tighten fasteners to 12 N.m (105 in.lbs.).
6. Install the throttle bracket. See Fig. 282. Tighten fasteners to 12 N.m (105 in.lbs.) at the throttle body and
28N.m (259 in.lbs.) at the cylinder head.
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Fig. 283: Identifying Manifold Tuning Valve & Short Runner Valve
1 - Manifold Tuning Valve

2 - Short Runner Valve
7. Connect the manifold tuning valve and short runner valve electrical connectors.
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Fig. 284: PCV Hose, Purge Hose, Brake Booster Hose, Throttle Bracket & Electronic Throttle
Control
1 - PCV HOSE
2 - PURGE HOSE
3 - BRAKE BOOSTER HOSE
4 - THROTTLE BRACKET
5 - ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL
8. Connect the electronic throttle control harness connector.

9. Connect the engine electrical connectors to the intake manifold.
10. Connect the EGR tube, PCV, Purge and power brake booster vacuum hoses to the intake manifold.
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Fig. 285: Locating Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

11. Connect the MAP sensor harness connector.
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Fig. 286: Removing/Installing Inlet Hose And IAT Sensor Harness Connector
12. Install the inlet hose and connect the IAT sensor harness connector.
MANIFOLD-EXHAUST LEFT
REMOVAL
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3. Separate the front exhaust pipe to manifold union (2).
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Fig. 288: Left Exhaust Manifold

1 - GASKET
2 - STUD
3 - NUT
4 - BOLT
5 - UPPER HEAT SHIELD
6 - LOWER HEAT SHIELD
7 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD

5. Disconnect and remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust manifold (7)
6. Remove the exhaust manifold shield (5) retaining bolts, exhaust manifold (7) , and discard gasket (1).
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INSPECTION
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
1. Inspect exhaust manifolds for damage or cracks.

2. Check manifold flatness.
3. Inspect the exhaust manifold gasket for obvious discoloration or distortion.
4. Check distortion of the cylinder head mounting surface with a straightedge and thickness gauge.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 289: Left Exhaust Manifold

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1 - GASKET
2 - STUD
3 - NUT
4 - BOLT
5 - UPPER HEAT SHIELD
6 - LOWER HEAT SHIELD
NOTE: If replacing the exhaust manifold, tighten the exhaust outlet studs to manifold
to 40N.m (350 in.lbs.).
1. Position the exhaust manifold (7) and gasket (1). Install the retaining bolts (2). Tighten 4 bolts starting at
the center working outward to 23 N.m (200 in. lbs.).
2. Install the exhaust manifold heat shields (5,6). Tighten the bolts to 12N.m (105 in. lbs.).
3. Tighten the out most stud nuts to 8N.m (73 in.lbs.).
4. Connect the oxygen sensor.


6. Connect the exhaust pipe to manifold union (2). Tighten the exhaust stud nuts to 34N.m (300 in.lbs.).
MANIFOLD-EXHAUST RIGHT
REMOVAL
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2. Disconnect the upstream oxygen sensor electrical connector.
4. Remove the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe flange retaining bolts (2).
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Fig. 292: Right Exhaust Manifold

1 - GASKET
2 - MANIFOLD
3 - LOWER SHIELD
4 - UPPER SHIELD
5 - BOLT

6. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield and manifold.
7. Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust manifold.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 293: Right Exhaust Manifold

1 - GASKET
2 - MANIFOLD
3 - LOWER SHIELD
4 - UPPER SHIELD
5 - BOLT
1. Clean gasket surfaces.
NOTE: If replacing the exhaust manifold, tighten the exhaust outlet studs to
39N.m (350 in.lbs.).
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2. Position the exhaust manifold and gasket. Install the retaining bolts. Tighten 4 bolts starting at the center
working outward to 23 N.m (200 in. lbs.). See Fig. 293.
3. Install the heat shields. Tighten the heat shield fasteners to 12 N.m (105 in.lbs.).
4. Tighten the 2 out most nuts to 8 N.m (73 in.lbs.).
5. Connect the oxygen sensor.

7. Connect the front exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold (2). Tighten the fasteners to 34 N.m (300 in. lbs.).
VALVE TIMING
DESCRIPTION
TIMING DRIVE SYSTEM
Microsoft
Fig. 295: Timing Drive System

1 - FRONT TIMING COVER

2 - WATER PUMP
3 - TIMING BELT
5 - CRANKSHAFT DAMPER
The timing drive system has been designed to provide quiet performance and reliability to support a NON free-
wheeling engine.
The timing drive components include a crankshaft sprocket (4), camshaft sprockets, tensioner pulley, hydraulic
tensioner and a timing belt (3). The water pump (2) is driven by the back side of the timing belt (3). The right
and left camshaft sprockets are keyed and not interchangeable because of the cam sensor pick-up wheel on the
left sprocket. See Fig. 295.
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COVER-FRONT TIMING BELT
REMOVAL
Fig. 296: Front Timing Covers

1 - UPPER FRONT TIMING COVER

2 - LOWER FRONT TIMING COVER
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4. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
5. Remove bolts for power steering pump. Reposition power steering pump aside.

7. Remove crankshaft damper. See REMOVAL.

8. Remove the lower front timing belt cover fasteners. See Fig. 296.
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Fig. 298: Upper & Lower Timing Covers

1 - INNER TIMING COVER

2 - UPPER TIMING COVER
3 - 8 mm BOLT(S)
4 - 10mm BOLT(S)
5 - 6 mm BOLT(S)
6 - NUT(S)
7 - LOWER TIMING COVER

10. Remove the upper timing belt cover bolts and remove front timing belt cover. See Fig. 298.
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INSTALLATION
Fig. 299: Upper & Lower Timing Covers

1 - INNER TIMING COVER

2 - UPPER TIMING COVER
3 - 8 mm BOLT(S)
4 - 10mm BOLT(S)
5 - 6 mm BOLT(S)
6 - NUT(S)
7 - LOWER TIMING COVER
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1. Exchange the accessory drive belt pulley if necessary. Tighten bolt to 61 N.m (45 ft.lbs.).
2. Install upper front timing belt cover. See Fig. 299.
3. Install lower timing belt front cover. See Fig. 299.
4. Tighten the timing cover bolts as follows:
M6 bolts - 12N.m (105 in.lbs.)
M8 bolts - 28N.m (250 in.lbs.)
M10 bolts - 54N.m (40 lbs.ft.)
5. Install power steering pump fasteners. Tighten bolts to 23 N.m (200 lbs. in.).
6. Install crankshaft damper. See INSTALLATION.
7. Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Refer to INSTALLATION . Torque fastener to 28 N.m (250 in.
lbs.).
9. Lower vehicle.
COVER-REAR TIMING BELT
REMOVAL
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Fig. 300: Timing Belt Rear Cover Fasteners

1 - M8 FASTENERS (APPLY THREAD SEALANT)

2 - M10 FASTENERS
3 - M6 FASTENERS
4 - M10 FASTENERS (STUD/NUT)
NOTE: The rear timing belt cover has O-rings to seal the water pump passages to
cylinder block. Do not reuse the O-rings.

3. Remove timing belt. See REMOVAL.
4. Remove camshaft sprockets. See REMOVAL.
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5. Remove rear timing belt cover bolts (1, 2, 3). See Fig. 300.
6. Remove the rear cover.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 301: Rear Timing Belt Cover Seals & Rear Timing Belt Cover
1 - REAR TIMING BELT COVER SEALS

2 - REAR TIMING BELT COVER
1. Clean rear timing belt cover O-ring (1) sealing surfaces and grooves. Lubricate new O-rings with
Mopar® Dielectric Grease or equivalent to facilitate assembly. See Fig. 301.
2. Position NEW O-rings on cover (2).
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2 - M10 FASTENERS
3 - M6 FASTENERS
3. Install rear timing belt cover (4). See Fig. 302. Tighten bolts to the following specified torque:
M10 (2, 5) - 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.)
M8 (1) - 28 N.m (20 ft. lbs.)
M6 (3) - 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.)
4. Install camshaft sprockets. See INSTALLATION.
5. Install timing belt. See INSTALLATION.
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BELT-TIMING AND SPROCKETS
REMOVAL
CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
Fig. 303: Removing Crankshaft Sprocket Using Special Tool L-4407-A

1 - SPECIAL TOOL L-4407-A
1. Remove the timing belt. See REMOVAL.

2. Remove crankshaft sprocket using Special Tool L-4407-A (1). See Fig. 303.
TIMING BELT
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1 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT GEAR ALIGNMENT 7 - LEFT CAMSHAFT GEAR

MARK
2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT GEAR 8 - LEFT CAMSHAFT GEAR ALIGNMENT
MARK
3 - CYLINDER HEAD TO INNER TIMING BELT 9 - CRANKSHAFT GEAR ALIGNMENT MARK
COVER BOLTS - RIGHT
5 - WATER PUMP PULLEY 11 - TIMING BELT TENSIONER PULLEY
6 - CYLINDER HEAD TO INNER TIMING BELT 12 - TIMING BELT TENSIONER
COVER BOLTS - LEFT
CAUTION: The 4.0L is NOT a freewheeling engine. Therefore, loosen the valve train
rocker assemblies before servicing the timing drive.

3. Remove both cylinder head covers and loosen the rocker arm assemblies. See REMOVAL.
4. Remove the front timing belt cover. See REMOVAL).
5. Mark belt running direction, if timing belt is to be reused.
CAUTION: When aligning timing marks, always rotate engine by turning the
crankshaft. Failure to do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.
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6. Rotate engine clockwise until crankshaft (10) mark aligns with the TDC mark on oil pump housing (9)
and the camshaft sprocket (2, 7) timing marks (1, 8) are aligned with the marks on the rear cover. See Fig.
304.
7. Remove the timing belt tensioner (12) and remove timing belt.
8. Inspect the tensioner for fluid leakage.
9. Inspect the pivot and bolt for free movement, bearing grease leakage, and smooth rotation. If not rotating
freely, replace the arm and pulley assembly.
Fig. 305: Compressing Timing Belt Tensioner

1 - VISE
2 - LOCKING PIN
10. When tensioner is removed from the engine it is necessary to compress the plunger into the tensioner
body.
CAUTION: Index the tensioner in the vise the same way it is installed on the
engine. This ensures proper pin orientation when tensioner is
installed on the engine.
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 Place the tensioner into a vise (1) and SLOWLY compress the plunger. Total bleed down of
tensioner should take about 5 minutes. See Fig. 305.
 When plunger is compressed into the tensioner body install a pin (2) through the body and plunger
to retain plunger in place until tensioner is installed.
CAMSHAFT SPROCKETS


2 - BOLT
3 - O-RING
CAUTION: The 4.0L engine is NOT a free-wheeling design. Therefore, care should be
taken not to rotate the camshafts or crankshaft with the timing belt
removed.
NOTE: The camshaft timing gears are keyed to the camshaft.

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2. Remove front timing belt cover. See REMOVAL).
3. Position crankshaft sprocket to the TDC mark on the oil pump housing by turning crankshaft in the
clockwise direction.
4. Install a dial indicator in number 1 cylinder to check TDC of the piston. Rotate the crankshaft until the
piston is at exactly TDC.
5. Remove camshaft retainer/thrust plate (1) from rear of right cylinder head. See Fig. 306.
6. Remove the right cylinder head cover.
7. Remove the right rocker arm assembly.
8. Remove the timing belt tensioner and timing belt.
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Fig. 307: Left Camshaft Sprocket

1 - LEFT CAMSHAFT TDC

9. Hold left camshaft sprocket with a 36 mm (1 7/16 in.) box end wrench.
10. Loosen and remove the camshaft gear retaining bolt and washer. The left bolt is 255 mm (10.0 in.) long.
11. Remove the camshaft sprocket. See Fig. 307
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CAUTION: The right camshaft must be pushed rearward approximately 3 1/2

inches to remove the camshaft gear retaining bolt and gear. Care
must be taken not to scratch or nick the camshaft or cylinder head
journals when moving camshaft.
12. Hold right camshaft sprocket with a 36 mm (1 7/16 in.) box end wrench.
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13. Loosen and remove the camshaft gear retaining bolt and washer. The right bolt is 213 mm (8 3/8 in.)
long.
14. Remove the camshaft sprocket. See Fig. 308.
INSPECTION
TIMING BELT AND SPROCKETS

Remove the outer timing covers. Rotate the crankshaft until the pointer on the crankshaft sprocket (10) aligns
the TDC mark on the oil pump (9). Check to determine if the camshaft sprocket (2, 7) timing marks (1, 8) are
aligned with the marks on the inner timing cover. It may take an additional full revolution of the crankshaft
before the camshaft sprocket marks are aligned. See Fig. 309.
TIMING BELT
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Fig. 310: Timing Belt Inspection

1 - PEELING
2 - TOOTH MISSING AND CANVAS FIBER EXPOSED
3 - RUBBER EXPOSED
4 - CRACKS
5 - PEELING
6 - ROUNDED EDGE
7 - ABNORMAL WEAR (FLUFFY STRAND)
1. Remove front timing belt cover. See REMOVAL).

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2. Inspect both sides of the timing belt. Replace belt if any of the following conditions exist. See Fig. 310:
 Hardening of back rubber back side is glossy without resilience and leaves no indent when pressed
with fingernail.
 Cracks (4) on rubber back.
 Cracks or peeling (1) of canvas.
 Cracks on rib root.
 Cracks on belt sides.
 Missing teeth (2).
 Abnormal wear (7) of belt sides. The sides are normal if they are sharp as if cut by a knife.
 Vehicle mileage or time at component maintenance requirement. Refer to DESCRIPTION .
3. If none of the above conditions are seen on the belt, the front timing belt cover can be installed. See
INSTALLATION.
INSTALLATION
CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
Fig. 311: Installing Crankshaft Sprocket
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1 - INSTALL WITH SPECIAL TOOL 6641 WITH 12mm SCREW C-4685-C1 AND THRUST
BEARING AND WASHER
CAUTION: To ensure proper installation depth of crankshaft sprocket, Special Tool

6641 must be used.
1. Install crankshaft sprocket using Special Tools 6641 (1) and C-4685-C1. See Fig. 311.
2. Install timing belt. See INSTALLATION.
CAMSHAFT SPROCKETS
CAUTION: The camshaft sprockets are keyed and not interchangeable from side to
side because of the camshaft position sensor pick-up.


MARK
MARK
COVER BOLTS - RIGHT
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COVER BOLTS - LEFT
1. Install camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts. Install NEW sprocket attaching bolts into place. The 255
mm (10 in.) bolt is to be installed in the left camshaft and the 213 mm (8 3/8 in.) bolt is to be installed
into the right camshaft. Do not tighten the bolts; tightened at later step. Camshaft sprocket (2, 7) marks
(1, 8) should be aligned with the marks on the cover at both sprockets. See Fig. 312.
Fig. 313: Camshaft Thrust Plate


2 - BOLT
3 - O-RING
2. Install the camshaft thrust plates (1) and o-ring (3). Tighten bolts (2) to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.). See Fig.
313.
3. Install the timing belt starting first at the crankshaft sprocket (10), then to remaining components in a
counterclockwise direction.
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4. Install the belt around the last sprocket. Maintain tension on the belt as it is positioned around the
tensioner pulley (11). Each camshaft sprockets mark should still be aligned with the rear cover marks. See
Fig. 312.
NOTE: For timing belt tensioner reset procedure, see REMOVAL.
5. Hold the tensioner pulley against the belt and install the reset (pinned) timing belt tensioner into the
housing. Tighten attaching bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
6. Remove tensioner retaining pin to allow the tensioner to extend to the pulley bracket.
7. Using a dial indicator, position the number 1 piston at TDC.
8. Hold the camshaft sprocket hex with a 36 mm (1 7/16 in.) wrench and tighten the camshaft bolts to the
following:
Right side = 102 N.m (75 ft. lbs.) +90° turn
Left side = 102 N.m (75 ft. lbs.) +90° turn
9. Remove dial indicator and install spark plug.
10. Remove Special Tools 6642.
11. Install front timing belt cover. See INSTALLATION.
TIMING BELT
CAUTION: If camshafts have moved from the timing marks, always rotate camshaft
towards the direction nearest to the timing marks (DO NOT TURN
CAMSHAFTS A FULL REVOLUTION OR DAMAGE to valves and/or pistons
could result).

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MARK
MARK
COVER BOLTS - RIGHT
COVER BOLTS - LEFT
1. Align the crankshaft sprocket (10) with the TDC mark (9) on oil pump cover. See Fig. 314.
2. Align the camshaft sprockets (2, 7) timing reference marks (1, 8) with the marks on the rear cover.
3. Install the timing belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket (10) going in a counterclockwise direction.
Install the belt around the last sprocket. Maintain tension on the belt as it is positioned around the
tensioner pulley (11).
NOTE: If the camshaft gears have been removed it is only necessary to have the
camshaft gear retaining bolts installed to a snug torque at this time.
4. Holding the tensioner pulley (11) against the belt, install the tensioner into the housing and tighten to 28
N.m (250 in. lbs.). Each camshaft sprocket mark should remain aligned the cover marks.
5. When tensioner is in place pull retaining pin to allow the tensioner to extend to the pulley bracket.
6. Rotate crankshaft sprocket 2 revolutions and check the timing marks on the camshafts and crankshaft.
The marks should line up within their respective locations. If marks do not line up, repeat procedure.
NOTE: If camshaft gears have been removed and timing is correct, counterhold
and tighten the camshaft gears to final torque specification. See
INSTALLATION.

8. Tighten the rocker arm assemblies and install the cylinder head covers. See INSTALLATION.
TENSIONER - TIMING BELT & PULLEY
REMOVAL
TIMING BELT TENSIONER PULLEY ASSEMBLY
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Fig. 315: Removing/Installing Tensioner Pulley, Pivot Bolt & Tensioner Bracket
1 - TENSIONER PULLEY
2 - PIVOT BOLT
3 - TENSIONER BRACKET
1. Remove the timing belt. See TIMING BELT.

2. Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley (1) and bracket (3) assembly by unscrewing the pivot bolt (2)
from the oil pump housing. See Fig. 315.
TIMING BELT TENSIONER
1. For timing belt tensioner removal procedure. See TIMING BELT.
INSPECTION
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2 - PIVOT BOLT
NOTE: The tensioner pulley (1), bracket (3), and pivot bolt (2) is serviced as an
assembly.
1. Inspect pulley (1) for free movement. Replace if pulley is loose, seized, or rough turning. See Fig. 316.
2. Inspect pulley bearing and seal. Replace if damaged.
3. Inspect pivot bolt (2) for free movement in assembly housing. Replace assembly if seized or excessive
looseness.
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Fig. 317: Timing Housing & Plunger (Extended Position)

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1 - PLUNGER (EXTENDED POSITION)

2 - TENSIONER HOUSING
1. Inspect hydraulic tensioner (2) for fluid loss around the plunger (1) seal. Replace tensioner if leaking. See
Fig. 317.
INSTALLATION
2 - PIVOT BOLT
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1. Install the timing belt tensioner pulley (1) assembly. Tighten the pivot bolt (2) to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.). See
Fig. 318.
2. Install the timing belt. See TIMING BELT.
1. For timing belt tensioner installation procedure. See TIMING BELT.
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2007 BRAKES ABS - Electrical Diagnostics - Nitro
2007 BRAKES
ABS - Electrical Diagnostics - Nitro
DIAGNOSTIC CODE INDEX

DTC Description
C1008 BRAKE FLUID LEVEL CIRCUIT HIGH
C100A LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
C1011 LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
C1014 LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
C1015 RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
C101C RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
C101F RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
C1020 LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
C1027 LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
C102A LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
C102B RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
C1032 RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
C1035 RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
C1041 LEFT FRONT TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE
C1042 RIGHT FRONT TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE
C1043 LEFT REAR TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE
C1044 RIGHT REAR TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE
C1046 LEFT FRONT WHEEL PRESSURE PHASE MONITORING
C1047 RIGHT FRONT WHEEL PRESSURE PHASE MONITORING
C1048 LEFT REAR WHEEL PRESSURE PHASE MONITORING
C1049 RIGHT REAR WHEEL PRESSURE PHASE MONITORING
C1073 ABS PUMP MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT
C1078 TIRE REVOLUTIONS RANGE PERFORMANCE
C107C BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH 1/2 STUCK
C107D BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH 1/2 CORRELATION
C1210 G SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
C1219 STEERING ANGLE SENSOR ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
C121A STEERING ANGLE SENSOR NOT INITIALIZED
C121C TORQUE REQUEST SIGNAL DENIED
C121D BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR CIRCUIT
C121E BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
C1231 DRIVE TEST: STEERING ANGLE SENSOR
C1232 DRIVE TEST: PRESSURE SENSOR
Microsoft
11:52:29 AM Page 1 © 2005 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC.
C1234 DRIVE TEST: SENSOR CLUSTER INSTALLATION

C1238 DRIVE TEST: UNSUCCESSFUL
C1239 EMISSIONS ROLLS TEST ACTIVE
C123A ESP SYSTEM SENSORS CALIBRATION
C123B ESP SYSTEM CONTROL TOO LONG
C123C DYNAMICS SENSOR MOUNTING/INSTALLATION PERFORMANCE
C123F STEERING ANGLE SENSOR COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
C1240 STEERING ANGLE SENSOR OVERTRAVEL PERFORMANCE
C1242 G SENSOR INPUT SIGNAL PERFORMANCE
C1243 G SENSOR NOT INITIALIZED
C2100 BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
C2101 BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
C2111 SENSOR SUPPLY 1 VOLTAGE CIRCUIT LOW
C2112 SENSOR SUPPLY 1 VOLTAGE CIRCUIT HIGH
C2114 DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY VOLTAGE LOW
C2115 DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY VOLTAGE HIGH
C2116 ABS PUMP MOTOR SUPPLY LOW VOLTAGE
C2200 ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE INTERNAL
C2204 DYNAMICS SENSOR INTERNAL
C2205 STEERING ANGLE SENSOR INTERNAL
C2206 VEHICLE CONFIGURATION MISMATCH
U0002 CAN C BUS OFF PERFORMANCE
U0100 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ECM/PCM
U0101 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH TCM
U0125 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH DYNAMICS SENSOR
U0126 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH STEERING ANGLE SENSOR
U0141 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH FRONT CONTROL MODULE
U0401 IMPLAUSIBLE DATA RECEIVED FROM ECM/PCM
U0429 IMPLAUSIBLE DATA RECEIVED FROM SCM
U1003 ESP CAN C BUS PERFORMANCE
U1104 CAN C BUS CRC PERFORMANCE
U140E IMPLAUSIBLE VEHICLE CONFIGURATION DATA RECEIVED
U1501 IMPLAUSIBLE MESSAGE DATA LENGTH RECEIVED FROM ECM/PCM
U1502 IMPLAUSIBLE MESSAGE DATA LENGTH RECEIVED FROM TCM
U1503 IMPLAUSIBLE MESSAGE DATA LENGTH RECEIVED FROM FCM
U1601 MISSING APPLICATION FILE
ABS - ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS

Microsoft
Saturday, August 22, 2009 11:52:29 AM Page 2 © 2005 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC.
ABS INTERMITTENT CONDITION
For complete wiring diagrams refer to SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS article.
Diagnostic Test
1) PERFORM ABS INTERMITTENT CONDITION TEST
NOTE: The conditions that set the DTC are not present at this time. The following
list may help in identifying the intermittent condition.
WARNING: When the engine is operating, do not stand in direct line with the fan.
Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts, or fan. Do not wear
loose clothing. Failure to follow these instructions can result in
personal injury or death.
Refer to any Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) that may apply.
Review the scan tool Environmental Data (EV Data). If possible, try to duplicate the conditions under
which the DTC set.
Turn the ignition off.
Visually inspect the related wire harness. Disconnect all the related harness connectors. Look for any
chafed, pierced, pinched, partially broken wires and broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded terminals.
Wiggle the wires while checking for shorts and open circuits.
Perform a voltage drop test on the related circuits between the suspected inoperative component and the
Anti-Lock Brake Module.
Inspect and clean all PCM, ABS, engine, and chassis grounds that are related to the most current DTC.
If numerous trouble codes were set, use a wire schematic and look for any common ground or supply
circuits
For any Relay DTCs, actuate the Relay with the scan tool and wiggle the related wire harness to try to
interrupt the actuation.
Use the scan tool to perform a System Test if one applies to failing component.
A co-pilot, data recorder, or lab scope should be used to help diagnose intermittent conditions.
Were any problems found during the above inspections?
Yes
Microsoft
Perform the necessary repairs.

Perform ABS VERIFICATION TEST.
No
Test Complete.
C1008-BRAKE FLUID LEVEL CIRCUIT HIGH
Microsoft
Fig. 1: Brake Fluid Level Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
Microsoft
With the ignition on.
Set Condition:
When the Totally Integrated Power Module indicates that the Brake Fluid Level Circuit is open and
greater than 4.9 volts for more then 5 seconds.
Possible Causes
(B20) BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH INTERNAL FAILURE
(Z905) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE
Diagnostic Test
1) BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH SIGNAL VOLTAGE ABOVE 4.9 VOLTS
NOTE: This DTC must be active for the results of this test to be valid.
Turn the ignition on.
With the scan tool, read Brake Fluid Level Switch Signal voltage.
Is the voltage above 4.9 volts?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION diagnostic procedure.

Refer to the ABS INTERMITTENT CONDITION.
2) BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH INTERNAL FAILURE
Microsoft
Fig. 2: Brake Fluid Level Switch


Microsoft
Connect a jumper wire between the (B20) Brake Fluid Level signal circuit and the (Z905) Brake Fluid
Level ground circuit in the Brake Fluid Level Switch harness connector
With the scan tool, read the Brake Fluid Level Switch voltage
Is the voltage below 1.0 volt?
Yes
Replace the Brake Fluid Level Switch in accordance with the Service Information.
No
Go to 3).
3) (B20) BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH CIRCUIT OPEN
Fig. 3: Measuring Resistance Of (B20) Brake Fluid Level Signal Circuit Between Brake Fluid Level
Switch Harness Connector And TIPM Harness Connector
Disconnect the Brake Fluid Level Switch.

Microsoft
Disconnect the TIPM harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (B20) Brake Fluid Level signal circuit between the Brake Fluid Level
Switch harness connector and the TIPM harness connector.
Is the resistance below 5 ohms?
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the open in the (B20) Brake Fluid Level Switch signal circuit.
4) (Z905) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 4: Measuring Resistance Of (Z905) Brake Fluid Level Switch Ground Circuit Between Brake
Fluid Level Switch Harness Connector And Ground
Microsoft
Disconnect the Brake Fluid Level Switch harness connector.
Reconnect the TIPM harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (Z905) Brake Fluid Level Switch ground circuit between the Brake Fluid
Level Switch harness connector and ground.
Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms?
Yes
Replace and program the Totally Integrated Power Module in accordance with the Service
Information.
No
Repair the open or high resistance in the (Z905) Sensor ground circuit.
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST .
C100A-LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
Microsoft
Fig. 5: Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
Microsoft
Set Condition:
When the Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) circuit fails the diagnostic test.
Possible Causes
WIRING HARNESS, TERMINAL, CONNECTOR DAMAGE
(B9) LEFT FRONT WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE, GROUND, OR
OPEN
(B8) LEFT FRONT WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE, GROUND, OR OPEN
(B8) LEFT FRONT WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO (B9) LEFT FRONT WSS 12 VOLT
SUPPLY CIRCUIT
LEFT FRONT WSS
ANTI-LOCK BRAKES MODULE
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR DTC C100A-LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
With the scan tool, record and erase DTCs.
Cycle the ignition switch from off to on.
With the scan tool, read DTCs.
Does the scan tool display: C100A-LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
The condition that caused the symptom is currently not present. Inspect the related wiring for a
possible intermittent condition. Look for any chafed, pierced, pinched, or partially broken wires.
2) CHECK CONNECTOR/TERMINAL FOR DAMAGE
NOTE: Check all terminals for broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded terminals.
Microsoft
Inspect the Anti-Lock Brake Module harness connector, Left Front WSS, and Left Front WSS harness
connector.
Is the Left Front WSS or any of the connectors/terminals damaged?
Yes
Repair as necessary.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (B9) LEFT FRONT WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT VOLTAGE
Microsoft
Fig. 6: Measuring Voltage Of (B9) Left Front WSS 12 Volt Supply Circuit
Disconnect the Left Front WSS harness connector.
Measure the voltage of the (B9) Left Front WSS 12 Volt Supply circuit.
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK (B9) LEFT FRONT WSS SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Microsoft
Fig. 7: Probing (B9) Left Front WSS Supply Circuit

Disconnect the Anti-Lock Brake Module harness connector.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B9) Left Front WSS Supply circuit.
Does the test light illuminate brightly?
Yes
Microsoft
Repair the (B9) Left Front WSS Supply circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK (B9) LEFT FRONT WSS SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN
Fig. 8: Probing (B9) Left Front WSS Supply Circuit

Microsoft
Connect a jumper wire between ground and the (B9) Left Front WSS Supply circuit in the Anti-Lock
Brakes Module harness connector.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B9) Left Front WSS Supply circuit.
Yes
Replace the Anti-Lock Brakes Module in accordance with the Service Information.
No
Repair the (B9) Left Front WSS Supply circuit for an open.
6) CHECK (B8) LEFT FRONT WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Microsoft
Fig. 9: Probing (B8) Left Front WSS Signal Circuit

Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B8) Left Front WSS Signal circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
Repair the (B8) Left Front WSS Signal circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 7).
7) CHECK (B8) LEFT FRONT WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
Fig. 10: Probing (B8) Left Front WSS Signal Circuit

Microsoft
Connect a jumper wire between ground and the (B8) Left Front WSS Signal circuit in the Anti-Lock
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B8) Left Front WSS Signal circuit.
Yes
Go to 8).
No
Repair the (B8) Left Front WSS Signal circuit for an open.
8) CHECK (B8) LEFT FRONT WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Microsoft
Fig. 11: Measuring Voltage Between (B8) Left Front WSS Signal Circuit And Ground
Remove all jumper wires.
Measure the voltage between the (B8) Left Front WSS Signal circuit and ground.
Is the voltage above one volt?
Yes
Repair the (B8) Left Front WSS Signal circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Go to 9).
9) CHECK (B8) LEFT FRONT WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT AND (B9) LEFT FRONT WSS SUPPLY
CIRCUIT SHORT TOGETHER
Microsoft
Fig. 12: Measuring Resistance Between (B8) Left Front WSS Signal Circuit And (B9) Left Front
WSS Supply Circuit
Measure the resistance between the (B8) Left Front WSS Signal circuit and the (B9) Left Front WSS
Supply circuit.
Is the resistance above 120 ohms?
Yes
Go to step 10).
No
Repair the (B8) Left Front WSS Signal circuit and the (B9) Left Front WSS Supply circuit for a
Microsoft
short together.
10) LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
Replace the Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor in accordance with the Service Information.
CAUTION: Ensure brake capability is available before road testing.
Road test the vehicle over 40 km/h (25 mph).
NOTE: Vehicle must be driven above 40 km/h (25 mph) for set conditions to be
met.
With the scan tool, read ABS DTCs.
Did DTC C100A-LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C1011-LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) Signal is intermittently missing while vehicle speed is
above 40 km/h (25 mph) or erratic wheel speed signal during acceleration or sensed wheel speed is
different from other wheels.
Possible Causes
Microsoft
LEFT FRONT WSS LOOSE - B8, B9 CIRCUITS/CONNECTOR/TERMINAL DAMAGE

LEFT FRONT TONE WHEEL DAMAGE
LEFT FRONT WHEEL/BEARING DAMAGE
IMPROPER LEFT FRONT TIRE PRESSURE/MISMATCHED TIRES
LEFT FRONT WSS
ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR DTC C1011-LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC
PERFORMANCE
NOTE: If DTC C100A Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit is present it must be
repaired before continuing.
met.
Does the scan tool display: C1011-LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC
PERFORMANCE active?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
2) CHECK WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNALS

Microsoft
With the scan tool, monitor and graph ALL the WSS speeds and compare graph while an assistant drives
the vehicle.
NOTE: If graph shows periodic dropouts pay close attention to the tone wheel.
Slowly accelerate as straight as possible from a stop to 40 km/h (25 mph).
Is the Left Front WSS speed showing 0 km/h (0 mph) or not matching other wheels or showing
erratic behavior?
Yes
Go to 3).
No

3) CHECK FOR IMPROPER LEFT FRONT TIRE PRESSURE/MISMATCHED TIRES
Check and adjust the Left Front Tire pressure.
Check and adjust all other tire pressures.
Inspect for mismatched tires on vehicle.
Is the Left Front Tire improperly inflated or mismatched tires on vehicle?
Yes
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK LEFT FRONT WSS LOOSENESS, INSPECT B8, B9 CIRCUITS/TERMINALS FOR
DAMAGE
NOTE: Check all terminals for broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded terminals
connector
Microsoft
Inspect the Left Front WSS for looseness, excessive corrosion and not properly fastened.
Inspect the (B8) Left Front WSS Signal and (B9) Left Front WSS Supply circuits between the Left Front
WSS and Anti-Lock Brake Module for damage.
Is the Left Front WSS loose or any of the wiring/connectors/terminals damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR FOR DAMAGE
Remove the Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Inspect the Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor face for damage.
Is the Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor damaged?
Yes
Replace sensor and hub assembly.

No
Go to 6).
6) CHECK LEFT FRONT TONE WHEEL/BEARING FOR DAMAGE
Inspect the Left Front Tone Wheel/Bearing for damage, missing teeth, cracks, corrosion or looseness.
NOTE: The Tone Wheel teeth should be perfectly square, not bent, or nicked.
Is the Left Front Tone Wheel/Bearing damaged?
Yes
No
Microsoft
Go to 7).
7) CHECK LEFT FRONT WHEEL BEARING FOR DAMAGE
Inspect the Left Front wheel bearing for excessive runout or clearance.
NOTE: Refer to the appropriate service information, if necessary, for procedures

or specifications.
Is the Left Front Wheel Bearing Damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 8).
met.
Did DTC C1011-LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C1014-LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
Microsoft
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) Signal reading is different from the readings received
from the other WSS's at a vehicle speed above 40 km/h (25 mph). The Anti-Lock Brake Module
compares WSS readings from side-to-side on an axle and front-to-rear.
Possible Causes
LEFT FRONT WSS LOOSE - B8, B9 CIRCUITS/CONNECTOR/TERMINAL DAMAGE
LEFT FRONT TONE WHEEL/BEARING DAMAGE
LEFT FRONT WSS
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR DTC C1014-LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE

PERFORMANCE
met.
Does the scan tool display: C1014-LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE
PERFORMANCE active?
Yes
Microsoft
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
the vehicle.
erratic behavior?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Yes
Repair as necessary
Microsoft
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK LEFT FRONT WSS LOOSENESS, INSPECT B8, B9 CIRCUITS/TERMINALS FOR
DAMAGE
connector.
Inspect the Left Front WSS for looseness, excessive corrosion and not properly fastened.
Inspect the (B8) Left Front WSS Signal and (B9) Left Front WSS Supply circuits between the Left Front
Is the Left Front WSS loose or any of the wiring/connectors/terminals damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR FOR DAMAGE
Remove the Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Inspect the Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor face for damage.
Is the Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor damaged?
Yes

No
Go to 6).
6) CHECK LEFT FRONT TONE WHEEL/BEARING FOR DAMAGE
Inspect the Left Front Tone Wheel/Bearing for damage, missing teeth, cracks, corrosion or looseness.
Microsoft
Is the Left Front Tone Wheel/Bearing damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 7).
met.
Did DTC C1014-LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C1015-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft
Set Condition:
If the Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) circuit fails the diagnostic test.
Possible Causes
(B7) RIGHT FRONT WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE, GROUND, OR
OPEN
(B6) RIGHT FRONT WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE, GROUND, OR OPEN
(B6) RIGHT FRONT WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO (B7) RIGHT FRONT WSS 12 VOLT
SUPPLY CIRCUIT
RIGHT FRONT WSS
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR DTC C1015-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
Does the scan tool display: C1015-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Microsoft
Inspect the Anti-Lock Brake Module harness connector, Right Front WSS, and Right Front WSS harness
connector.
Is the Right Front WSS or any of the connectors/terminals damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (B7) RIGHT FRONT WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT VOLTAGE
Microsoft
Fig. 14: Measuring Voltage Of (B7) Right Front WSS 12 Volt Supply Circuit
Disconnect the Right Front WSS harness connector.
Measure the voltage of the (B7) Right Front WSS 12 Volt Supply circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
Go to 6).
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK (B7) RIGHT FRONT WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO
GROUND
Fig. 15: Probing (B7) Right Front WSS Supply Circuit

Microsoft
Disconnect the Right Front WSS harness connector.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B7) Right Front WSS Supply circuit.
Yes
Repair the (B7) Right Front WSS Supply circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK (B7) RIGHT FRONT WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 16: Probing (B7) Right Front WSS Supply Circuit

Connect a jumper wire between ground and the (B7) Right Front WSS Supply circuit in the Anti-Lock
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B7) Right Front WSS Supply circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
No
Repair the (B7) Right Front WSS Supply circuit for an open.
6) CHECK (B6) RIGHT FRONT WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 17: Probing (B6) Right Front WSS Signal Circuit

Microsoft
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B6) Right Front WSS Signal circuit.
Yes
Repair the (B6) Right Front WSS Signal circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 7).
7) CHECK (B6) RIGHT FRONT WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 18: Probing (B6) Right Front WSS Signal Circuit

Connect a jumper wire between ground and the (B6) Right Front WSS Signal circuit in the Anti-Lock
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B6) Right Front WSS Signal circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
Go to 8).
No
Repair the (B6) Right Front WSS Signal circuit for an open.
8) CHECK (B6) RIGHT FRONT WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 19: Measuring Voltage Between (B6) Right Front WSS Signal Circuit And Ground
Microsoft
Measure the voltage between the (B6) Right Front WSS Signal circuit and ground.
Yes
Repair the (B6) Right Front WSS Signal circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Go to 9).
9) CHECK (B6) RIGHT FRONT WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT AND (B7) RIGHT FRONT WSS 12
VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TOGETHER
Microsoft
Fig. 20: Measuring Resistance Between (B6) Right Front WSS Signal Circuit And (B7) Right Front
WSS Supply Circuit
Measure the resistance between the (B6) Right Front WSS Signal circuit and the (B7) Right Front WSS
Supply circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
Go to step 10).
No
Repair the (B6) Right Front WSS Signal circuit and the (B7) Right Front WSS Supply circuit for a
short together.
10) RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
Replace the Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor in accordance with the Service Information.
met.
Did DTC C1015-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C101C-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) Signal is intermittently missing while vehicle speed is
Microsoft
Possible Causes
RIGHT FRONT WSS LOOSE - B6, B7 CIRCUITS/CONNECTOR/TERMINAL DAMAGE
RIGHT FRONT TONE WHEEL DAMAGE
RIGHT FRONT WHEEL/BEARING DAMAGE
IMPROPER RIGHT FRONT TIRE PRESSURE/MISMATCHED TIRES
RIGHT FRONT WSS
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR DTC C101C-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC
PERFORMANCE
NOTE: If DTC C1015-Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit is present it must be
repaired before continuing.
met.
Does the scan tool display: C101C-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL
ERRATIC PERFORMANCE active?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Microsoft
Go to 2).
the vehicle.
Is the Right Front WSS speed showing 0 km/h (0 mph) or not matching other wheels or showing
erratic behavior?
Yes
Go to 3).
No

3) CHECK FOR IMPROPER RIGHT FRONT TIRE PRESSURE/MISMATCHED TIRES
Check and adjust the Right Front Tire pressure.
Is the Right Front Tire improperly inflated or mismatched tires on vehicle?
Yes
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK RIGHT FRONT WSS LOOSENESS, INSPECT B6, B7 CIRCUITS/TERMINALS FOR
DAMAGE
Microsoft
connector
Inspect the Right Front WSS for looseness, excessive corrosion and not properly fastened.
Inspect the (B6) Right Front WSS Signal and (B7) Right Front WSS Supply circuits between the Right
Front WSS and Anti-Lock Brake Module for damage.
Is the Right Front WSS loose or any of the wiring/connectors/terminals damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR FOR DAMAGE
Remove the Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Inspect the Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor face for damage.
Is the Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor damaged?
Yes

No
Go to 6).
6) CHECK RIGHT FRONT TONE WHEEL/BEARING FOR DAMAGE
Inspect the Right Front Tone Wheel/Bearing for damage, missing teeth, cracks, corrosion or looseness.
Is the Right Front Tone Wheel/Bearing damaged?
Yes
Microsoft
No
Go to 7).
7) CHECK RIGHT FRONT WHEEL BEARING FOR DAMAGE
Inspect the Right Front wheel bearing for excessive runout or clearance.

or specifications.
Is the Right Front Wheel Bearing Damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 8).
met.
Did DTC C101C-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC

PERFORMANCE reset?
Yes
Microsoft
No
Test Complete.
C101F-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) reading is different from the readings received from
the other sensors at a vehicle speed above 40 km/h (25 mph). The Anti-Lock Brake Module compares
WSS readings from side-to-side on an axle and front-to-rear.
Possible Causes
RIGHT FRONT WSS LOOSE - B6, B7 CIRCUITS/CONNECTOR/TERMINAL DAMAGE
RIGHT FRONT TONE WHEEL/BEARING DAMAGE
RIGHT FRONT WSS
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR DTC C101F-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE

PERFORMANCE
met.

Microsoft
Does the scan tool display: C101F-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE
PERFORMANCE active?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
the vehicle.
erratic behavior?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Yes
Microsoft
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK RIGHT FRONT WSS LOOSENESS, INSPECT B6, B7 CIRCUITS/TERMINALS FOR
DAMAGE
connector
Inspect the Right Front WSS for looseness, excessive corrosion and not properly fastened.
Inspect the (B6) Right Front WSS Signal and (B7) Right Front WSS Supply circuits between the Right
Front WSS and Anti-Lock Brake Module for damage.
Is the Right Front WSS loose or any of the wiring/connectors/terminals damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR FOR DAMAGE
Remove the Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Inspect the Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor face for damage.
Is the Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor damaged?
Yes

No
Go to 6).
Microsoft
6) CHECK RIGHT FRONT TONE WHEEL/BEARING FOR DAMAGE
Inspect the Right Front Tone Wheel/Bearing for damage, missing teeth, cracks, corrosion or looseness.
Is the Right Front Tone Wheel/Bearing damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 7).
met.
Did DTC C101F-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C1020-LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft
Set Condition:
If the Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) circuit fails the diagnostic test.
Possible Causes
(B4) LEFT REAR WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE, GROUND, OR
OPEN
(B3) LEFT REAR WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE, GROUND, OR OPEN
(B3) LEFT REAR WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO (B4) LEFT REAR WSS 12 VOLT
SUPPLY CIRCUIT
LEFT REAR WSS
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR DTC C1020-LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
Does the scan tool display: C1020-LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Microsoft
Inspect the Anti-Lock Brake Module harness connector, Left Rear WSS, and Left Rear WSS harness
connector.
Is the Left Rear WSS or any of the connectors/terminals damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (B4) LEFT REAR WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT VOLTAGE
Microsoft
Fig. 22: Measuring Voltage Of (B4) Left Rear WSS 12 Volt Supply Circuit
Disconnect the Left Rear WSS harness connector.
Measure the voltage of the (B4) Left Rear WSS 12 Volt Supply circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
Go to 6).
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK (B4) LEFT REAR WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 23: Probing (B4) Left Rear WSS Supply Circuit


Microsoft
Disconnect the Left Rear WSS harness connector.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B4) Left Rear WSS Supply circuit.
Yes
Repair the (B4) Left Rear WSS Supply circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK (B4) LEFT REAR WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 24: Probing (B4) Left Rear WSS Supply Circuit

Connect a jumper wire between ground and the (B4) Left Rear WSS Supply circuit in the Anti-Lock
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B4) Left Rear WSS Supply circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
No
Repair the (B4) Left Rear WSS Supply circuit for an open.
6) CHECK (B3) LEFT REAR WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 25: Probing (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal Circuit

Microsoft
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal circuit.
Yes
Repair the (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 7).
7) CHECK (B3) LEFT REAR WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 26: Probing (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal Circuit

Connect a jumper wire between ground and the (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal circuit in the Anti-Lock
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
Go to 8).
No
Repair the (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal circuit for an open.
8) CHECK (B3) LEFT REAR WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 27: Measuring Voltage Between (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal Circuit And Ground
Microsoft
Measure the voltage between the (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal circuit and ground.
Yes
Repair the (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Go to 9).
9) CHECK (B3) LEFT REAR WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT AND (B4) LEFT REAR WSS 12 VOLT
SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TOGETHER
Microsoft
Fig. 28: Measuring Resistance Between (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal Circuit And (B4) Left Rear
WSS Supply Circuit
Measure the resistance between the (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal circuit and the (B4) Left Rear WSS
Supply circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
Go to step 10).
No
Repair the (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal circuit and the (B4) Left Rear WSS Supply circuit for a
short together.
10) LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
Replace the Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor in accordance with the Service Information.
met.
Did DTC C1020-LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C1027-LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) Signal is intermittently missing while vehicle speed is
Microsoft
Possible Causes
LEFT REAR WSS LOOSE - B3, B4 CIRCUITS/CONNECTOR/TERMINAL DAMAGE
LEFT REAR TONE WHEEL DAMAGE
LEFT REAR WHEEL BEARING DAMAGE
AXLE SHAFT FASTENER HARDWARE
IMPROPER LEFT REAR TIRE PRESSURE/MISMATCHED TIRES
LEFT REAR WSS
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR DTC C1027-LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC
PERFORMANCE
met.
Does the scan tool display: C1027-LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC
PERFORMANCE active?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
Microsoft
the vehicle.
Is the Left Rear WSS speed showing 0 km/h (0 mph) or not matching other wheels or showing
erratic behavior?
Yes
Go to 3).
No

3) CHECK FOR IMPROPER LEFT REAR TIRE PRESSURE/MISMATCHED TIRES
Check and adjust the Left Rear Tire pressure.
Is the Left Rear Tire improperly inflated or mismatched tires on vehicle?
Yes
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK AXLE SHAFT FASTENER HARDWARE FOR LOOSENESS
Inspect the axle shaft fastener for looseness, and not properly fastened. Tighten fastener to proper
specification as required.
Was the Axle Shaft fastener loose?
Microsoft
Yes
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK LEFT REAR WSS LOOSENESS, INSPECT B4, B5 CIRCUITS/TERMINALS FOR
DAMAGE
connector
Inspect the Left Rear WSS for looseness, excessive corrosion and not properly fastened.
Inspect the (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal and (B4) Left Rear WSS Supply circuits between the Left Rear
Is the Left Rear WSS loose or any of the wiring/connectors/terminals damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 6).
6) CHECK LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR FOR DAMAGE
Remove the Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
Inspect the Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor face for damage.
Is the Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor damaged?
Yes

No
Microsoft
Go to 7).
7) CHECK LEFT REAR TONE WHEEL FOR DAMAGE
Inspect the Left Rear Tone Wheel for damage, missing teeth, cracks, corrosion or looseness.
Is the Left Rear Tone Wheel damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 8).
8) CHECK LEFT REAR WHEEL BEARING FOR DAMAGE
Inspect the Left Rear wheel bearing for excessive runout or clearance.

or specifications.
Is the Left Rear Wheel Bearing Damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 9).
met.
Microsoft
Did DTC C1027-LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C102A-LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) reading is different from the readings received from the
other sensors at a vehicle speed above 40 km/h (25 mph). The Anti-Lock Brake Module compares WSS
readings from side-to-side on an axle and front-to-rear.
Possible Causes
LEFT REAR WSS LOOSE - B3, B4 CIRCUITS/CONNECTOR/TERMINAL DAMAGE
LEFT REAR TONE WHEEL DAMAGE
LEFT REAR WSS
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR DTC C102A-LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
Microsoft
met.
Does the scan tool display: C102A-LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE
PERFORMANCE active?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
the vehicle.
erratic behavior?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Microsoft
Yes
No
Go to 4).
Yes
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK LEFT REAR WSS LOOSENESS, INSPECT B3, B4 CIRCUITS/TERMINALS FOR
DAMAGE
connector.
Inspect the Left Rear WSS for looseness, excessive corrosion and not properly fastened.
Inspect the (B3) Left Rear WSS Signal and (B4) Left Rear WSS Supply circuits between the Left Rear
Is the Left Rear WSS loose or any of the wiring/connectors/terminals damaged?

Microsoft
Yes
No
Go to 6).
6) CHECK LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR FOR DAMAGE
Remove the Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
Inspect the Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor face for damage.
Is the Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor damaged?
Yes

No
Go to 7).
7) CHECK LEFT REAR TONE WHEEL FOR DAMAGE
Inspect the Left Rear Tone Wheel for damage, missing teeth, cracks, corrosion or looseness.
Is the Left Rear Tone Wheel damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 8).

Microsoft
met.
Did DTC C102A-LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C102B-RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft
Set Condition:
If the Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) circuit fails the diagnostic test.
Possible Causes
(B2) RIGHT REAR WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE, GROUND, OR
OPEN
(B1) RIGHT REAR WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE, GROUND, OR OPEN
(B1) RIGHT REAR WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO (B2) RIGHT REAR WSS 12 VOLT
SUPPLY CIRCUIT
RIGHT REAR WSS
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR DTC C102B-RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
Does the scan tool display: C102B-RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Microsoft
Inspect the Anti-Lock Brake Module harness connector, Right Rear WSS, and Right Rear WSS harness
connector.
Is the Right Rear WSS or any of the connectors/terminals damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (B2) RIGHT REAR WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT VOLTAGE
Microsoft
Fig. 30: Measuring Voltage Of (B2) Right Rear WSS 12 Volt Supply Circuit
Disconnect the Right Rear WSS harness connector.
Measure the voltage of the (B2) Right Rear WSS 12 Volt Supply circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
Go to 6).
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK (B2) RIGHT REAR WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 31: Probing (B2) Right Rear WSS Supply Circuit


Microsoft
Disconnect the Right Rear WSS harness connector.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B2) Right Rear WSS Supply circuit.
Yes
Repair the (B2) Right Rear WSS Supply circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK (B2) RIGHT REAR WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 32: Probing (B2) Right Rear WSS Supply Circuit

Connect a jumper wire between ground and the (B2) Right Rear WSS Supply circuit in the Anti-Lock
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B2) Right Rear WSS Supply circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
No
Repair the (B2) Right Rear WSS Supply circuit for an open.
6) CHECK (B1) RIGHT REAR WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 33: Probing (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal Circuit

Microsoft
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal circuit.
Yes
Repair the (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 7).
7) CHECK (B1) RIGHT REAR WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 34: Probing (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal Circuit

Connect a jumper wire between ground and the (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal circuit in the Anti-Lock
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
Go to 8).
No
Repair the (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal circuit for an open.
8) CHECK (B1) RIGHT REAR WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 35: Measuring Voltage Between (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal Circuit And Ground
Microsoft
Measure the voltage between the (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal circuit and ground.
Yes
Repair the (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Go to 9).
9) CHECK (B1) RIGHT REAR WSS SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO (B2) RIGHT REAR
WSS 12 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT
Microsoft
Fig. 36: Measuring Resistance Between (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal Circuit And (B2) Right Rear
WSS Supply Circuit
Measure the resistance between the (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal circuit and the (B2) Right Rear WSS
Supply circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
Go to step 10).
No
Repair the (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal circuit and the (B2) Right Rear WSS Supply circuit for a
short together.
10) RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
Replace the Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor in accordance with the Service Information.
met.
Did DTC C102B-RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C1032-RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) Signal is intermittently missing while vehicle speed is
Microsoft
Possible Causes
RIGHT REAR WSS LOOSE - B1, B2 CIRCUITS/CONNECTOR/TERMINAL DAMAGE
RIGHT REAR TONE WHEEL DAMAGE
RIGHT REAR WHEEL BEARING DAMAGE
IMPROPER RIGHT REAR TIRE PRESSURE/MISMATCHED TIRES
RIGHT REAR WSS
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR DTC C1032-RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC
PERFORMANCE
met.
Does the scan tool display: C1032-RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC
PERFORMANCE active?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
Microsoft
the vehicle.
Is the Right Rear WSS speed showing 0 km/h (0 mph) or not matching other wheels or showing
erratic behavior?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION .

3) CHECK FOR IMPROPER RIGHT REAR TIRE PRESSURE/MISMATCHED TIRES
Check and adjust the Right Rear Tire pressure.
Is the Right Rear Tire improperly inflated or mismatched tires on vehicle?
Yes
No
Go to 4).
Microsoft
Yes
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK RIGHT REAR WSS LOOSENESS, INSPECT B1, B2 CIRCUITS/TERMINALS FOR
DAMAGE
connector.
Inspect the Right Rear WSS for looseness, excessive corrosion and not properly fastened.
Inspect the (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal and (B2) Right Rear WSS Supply circuits between the Right
Rear WSS and Anti-Lock Brake Module for damage.
Is the Right Rear WSS loose or any of the wiring/connectors/terminals damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 6).
6) CHECK RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR FOR DAMAGE
Remove the Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor.
Inspect the Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor face for damage.
Is the Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor damaged?
Yes

No
Microsoft
Go to 7).
7) CHECK RIGHT REAR TONE WHEEL FOR DAMAGE
Inspect the Right Rear Tone Wheel for damage, missing teeth, cracks, corrosion or looseness.
Is the Right Rear Tone Wheel damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 8).
8) CHECK RIGHT REAR WHEEL BEARING FOR DAMAGE
Inspect the Right Rear wheel bearing for excessive runout or clearance.

or specifications.
Is the Right Rear Wheel Bearing Damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 9).
met.
Microsoft
Did DTC C1032-RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C1035-RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) reading is different from the readings received from the
other sensors at a vehicle speed above 40 km/h (25 mph). The Anti-Lock Brake Module compares WSS
readings from side-to-side on an axle and front-to-rear.
Possible Causes
RIGHT REAR WSS LOOSE - B1, B2 CIRCUITS/CONNECTOR/TERMINAL DAMAGE
RIGHT REAR TONE WHEEL/BEARING DAMAGE
RIGHT REAR WSS
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR DTC C1035-RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE

PERFORMANCE
Microsoft
met.
Does the scan tool display: C1035-RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE
PERFORMANCE active?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
the vehicle.
erratic behavior?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Microsoft
Yes
No
Go to 4).
Yes
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK RIGHT REAR WSS LOOSENESS, INSPECT B1, B2 CIRCUITS/TERMINALS FOR
DAMAGE
connector
Inspect the Right Rear WSS for looseness, excessive corrosion and not properly fastened.
Inspect the (B1) Right Rear WSS Signal and (B2) Right Rear WSS Supply circuits between the Right
Microsoft
Rear WSS and Anti-Lock Brake Module for damage.
Is the Right Rear WSS loose or any of the wiring/connectors/terminals damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 6).
6) CHECK RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR FOR DAMAGE
Remove the Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor.
Inspect the Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor face for damage.
Is the Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor damaged?
Yes

No
Go to 7).
7) CHECK RIGHT REAR TONE WHEEL/BEARING FOR DAMAGE
Inspect the Right Rear Tone Wheel/Bearing for damage, missing teeth, cracks, corrosion or looseness.
Is the Right Rear Tone Wheel/Bearing damaged?
Yes
No
Go to 8).
Microsoft
met.
Did DTC C1035-RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C1041-LEFT FRONT TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Anti-Lock Brake Module detects periodic drops of a WSS signal.
Possible Causes
LEFT FRONT TONE WHEEL/BEARING DAMAGE
DIRT, METAL, DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/SENSOR
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C1041-LEFT FRONT TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE
Microsoft
Record DTC and Freeze Frame information.
With the scan tool, erase DTCs.
Cycle the ignition switch off then on.
Test drive the vehicle in a straight line to 40 km/h (25 mph).
met.
Does the scan tool display: C1041-LEFT FRONT TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE active?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
the vehicle.
erratic behavior?
Yes
Microsoft
Go to 3).
No

Yes
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK THE LEFT FRONT TONE WHEEL/BEARING FOR DAMAGE
NOTE: Check the tone wheel teeth for missing teeth, cracks, or looseness. Teeth
should be perfectly square, not bent, or nicked.
Check the Left Front Tone Wheel/Bearing for damage.
Check the Left Front Tone Wheel for dirt.
Was the tone wheel dirty?
Yes
Clean tone wheel and sensor. Clear codes and retest.

No
Replace the Left Front Tone Wheel/Bearing in accordance with the Service Information.
Microsoft
C1042-RIGHT FRONT TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Anti-Lock Brake Module detects periodic drops of a Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) signal.
Possible Causes
DIRTY TONE WHEEL/SENSOR
RIGHT FRONT TONE WHEEL/BEARING DAMAGE
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C1042-RIGHT FRONT TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE
met.
Does the scan tool display: C1042-RIGHT FRONT TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE?
Microsoft
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
the vehicle.
erratic behavior?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Perform the ABS INTERMITTENT CONDITION diagnostic procedure.

Yes
Microsoft
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK THE RIGHT FRONT TONE WHEEL/BEARING FOR DAMAGE
Check the Right Front Tone Wheel/Bearing for damage.
Check the Right Front Tone Wheel for dirt.
Yes

No
Replace the Right Front Tone Wheel/Bearing in accordance with the Service Information.
C1043-LEFT REAR TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
LEFT REAR TONE WHEEL/BEARING DAMAGE
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C1043-LEFT REAR TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE

Microsoft
met.
Does the scan tool display: C1043-LEFT REAR TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
the vehicle.
erratic behavior?
Microsoft
Yes
Go to 3).
No

Yes
No
Go to 4).
Yes
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK THE LEFT REAR TONE WHEEL/BEARING FOR DAMAGE
Microsoft
Check the Left Rear Tone Wheel/Bearing for damage.
Check the Left Rear Tone Wheel for dirt.
Yes

No
Replace the Left Rear Tone Wheel/Bearing in accordance with the Service Information.
C1044-RIGHT REAR TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
RIGHT REAR TONE WHEEL/BEARING DAMAGE
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C1044-RIGHT REAR TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE

Microsoft
met.
Does the scan tool display: C1044-RIGHT REAR TONE WHEEL PERFORMANCE?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
the vehicle.
erratic behavior?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION diagnostic procedure.

Microsoft
Yes
No
Go to 4).
Yes
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK THE RIGHT REAR TONE WHEEL FOR DAMAGE
Check the Right Rear Tone Wheel for damage.
Check the Right Rear Tone Wheel for dirt.
Microsoft
Yes

No
Replace the Right Rear Tone Wheel in accordance with the Service Information.
C1046-LEFT FRONT WHEEL PRESSURE PHASE MONITORING
When Monitored:
During active ABS control.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects a pressure reduction phase and the following pressure hold phase
is too long.
Possible Causes
LEFT FRONT TONE WHEEL/BEARING DAMAGED
WHEEL SPEED SIGNALS SWAPPED
LEFT FRONT WSS
Diagnostic Test
1) COMPARE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNALS
WARNING: Ensure brake capability is available before road testing.
With the scan tool, monitor ALL the WSS speeds while an assistant drives the vehicle.
Does the Left Front WSS speed differ from the other WSS speeds by 8 km/h (5 mph) or show NO
speed?
Yes
Microsoft
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
2) CHECKING INSIDE WHEEL SPEED
Slowly accelerate as straight as possible from a stop to 40 km/h (25 mph) and perform a 90 degree turn
while monitoring if inside wheel is slower than outside.
Was the inside wheel slower than outside?
Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) INSPECT TONE WHEEL/BEARING
Visually inspect the tone wheel and bearing for damage.
Check the tone wheel teeth for missing teeth, cracks, and looseness. The teeth must be perfectly
square, not bent, or nicked. Check the wheel bearing for worn/looseness.
Were any problems found?
Yes
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRING
Check the Anti-Lock Brakes Module and Wheel Speed Sensors harness connectors for incorrectly wired
connectors.
Microsoft
Yes
No
Go to 5).
met.
NOTE: The Anti-Lock Brake Module must sense ALL 4 wheels at 12 km/h (7.5
mph) before it will extinguish the ABS indicators.
Did DTC C1046-LEFT FRONT WHEEL PRESSURE PHASE MONITORING reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C1047-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL PRESSURE PHASE MONITORING
When Monitored:

Microsoft
Set Condition:
is too long.
Possible Causes
RIGHT FRONT TONE WHEEL DAMAGED
RIGHT FRONT WSS
Diagnostic Test
Does the Right Front WSS speed differ from the other WSS speeds by 8 km/h (5 mph) or show NO
speed?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
Yes
Perform the ABS INTERMITTENT CONDITION.
No
Microsoft
Go to 3).
Yes
No
Go to 4).
connectors.
Yes
No
Go to 5).
Microsoft
meet.
Did DTC C1047-RIGHT FRONT WHEEL PRESSURE PHASE MONITORING reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C1048-LEFT REAR WHEEL PRESSURE PHASE MONITORING
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
is too long.
Possible Causes
LEFT REAR TONE WHEEL/WHEEL BEARING
LEFT REAR WSS
Diagnostic Test

Microsoft
Does the Left Rear WSS speed differ from the other WSS speeds by 8 km/h (5 mph) or show NO
speed?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
Yes
No
Go to 3).
Yes
Microsoft
No
Go to 4).
connectors.
Yes
No
Go to 5).
met.
Did DTC C1048-LEFT REAR WHEEL PRESSURE PHASE MONITORING reset?
Yes
Microsoft
No
Test Complete.
C1049-RIGHT REAR WHEEL PRESSURE PHASE MONITORING
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects a pressure reduction phase and the following pressure hold
phase is too long.
Possible Causes
RIGHT REAR TONE WHEEL DAMAGED
RIGHT REAR WSS
Diagnostic Test
Does the Right Rear WSS speed differ from the other WSS speeds by 8 km/h (5 mph) or show NO
speed?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 2).
Microsoft
Yes
No
Go to 3).
Yes
No
Go to 4).
connectors.
Yes
No
Go to 5).
Microsoft
met.
Did DTC C1049-RIGHT REAR WHEEL PRESSURE PHASE MONITORING reset?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
C1073-ABS PUMP MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT
Microsoft
Fig. 37: ABS Pump Motor Control Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
Microsoft
When the ABS Pump Motor is activated.
Set Condition:
The ABM detects low pump motor feedback voltage with actuation of the pump motor relay.
Possible Causes
BLOWN PUMP FUSE
HIGH RESISTANCE IN B+ CIRCUITS
HIGH RESISTANCE IN GROUND CIRCUITS
INTEGRATED CONTROL UNIT
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C1073-ABS PUMP MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT
met.
With the scan tool, read DTCs
Does the scan tool display: C1073-ABS PUMP MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT?
Yes
Go to 2).
No

2) INSPECT RELATED WIRING HARNESS, TERMINALS, & CONNECTORS
Microsoft
Visually inspect the related wiring harness. Look for any pinched, chafed, pierced, and partially broken
wires.
Visually inspect the related wiring harness connectors. Look for broken, bent, pushed out, and corroded
terminals.
Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE ABS PUMP MOTOR FUSED B+ FOR AN OPEN
Remove and visually inspect the ABS Pump Motor B+ fuse.
Is the ABS Pump Motor B+ fuse open?
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 6).
4) CHECK THE (A107) FUSED B(+) FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Microsoft
Fig. 38: Probing (A107) Fused B+ Circuit

Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (A107) Fused B+ circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
Repair the (A107) Fused B(+) circuit for a short to ground.

No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK THE (A107) FUSED B(+) CIRCUIT
Visually inspect the (A107) Fused B(+) circuit in the wiring harness.
Look for any signs of intermittent short to ground.
Is the wiring harness OK?
Yes
Go to 6).
No

6) CHECK THE VOLTAGE ON THE (A107) FUSED B(+) CIRCUIT
Measure the voltage of the (A107) Fused B(+) circuit in the Anti-Lock Brake Module harness connector.
Is the voltage above 10 volts?
Yes
Go to 7).
No
Repair the (A107) Fused B(+) circuit for an open.

7) CHECK THE (Z909) GROUND CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (Z909) Ground circuit between the Anti-Lock Brake Module harness
Microsoft
connector and ground
Yes
Replace the ICU per service information.

No
Repair the high resistance in the (Z909) Ground circuit.

C1078-TIRE REVOLUTIONS RANGE PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
A comparison between the tire circumference value contained in the EEPROM and the tire circumference
value received on the CAN bus. Programmed value for tire size is not within acceptable range.
Possible Causes
INCORRECT VALUE PROGRAMMED INTO TIPM
ENGINE CONTROL MODULE
Diagnostic Test
1) INCORRECT VALUE PROGRAMMED INTO TIPM
TIRE SIZE BODY STYLE ENGINE SIZE SALES CODE REVS/MILE

P225/75R 16 BSW KA ALL TRY 689
WRANGLER ST
P235/65R 17 OWL KA ALL TUB, TUP, 695
WRANGLER HP TPV
P245/50R 20 BSW KA ALL TX1, TSV 680
WRANGLER HP
P245/50R 20 BSW EAGLE KA ALL TX1 680
RSA
P235/70R 16 BSW EAGLE KA ALL TSE 697
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RSA
P235/65R 17 BSW EAGLE KA ALL TCC 695
RSA
P255/50R 20 BSW EAGLE KA ALL TP3 671
RSA
Verify the correct Tire/wheel information is programmed in the TIPM.
Is the correct value programmed in the TIPM according to the chart?
Yes
Test complete.
No
Program the correct Tire/Wheel information in the TIPM.

C107C-BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH 1/2 STUCK
Diagnostic Test
1) ENGINE DTCS PRESENT
With the scan tool, read Engine DTCs.
Are there any Engine DTCs present?
Yes
Refer to appropriate Engine ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS article and perform the appropriate
diagnostic procedure.
No
Using the schematics as a guide, check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) terminals for
corrosion, damage, or terminal push out. Pay particular attention to all power and ground circuits.
C107D-BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH 1/2 CORRELATION

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Diagnostic Test
Yes
Refer to appropriate Engine ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS article and perform the appropriate
diagnostic procedure.
No
Using the schematics as a guide, check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) terminals for
corrosion, damage, or terminal push out. Pay particular attention to all power and ground circuits.
C1210-G SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
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Fig. 39: Dynamics Sensor Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
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Continuously, with ignition on, until vehicle speed exceeds 20 km/h (12.4 m.p.h.) for the first time, but
not if the sensor voltage is out of range.
Or, during diagnostic mode.
Or, if the monitoring was inhibited by a corresponding diagnostics command.
Set Condition:
If the measured acceleration signal is higher than 0.8 g for longer than the specified detection time.
Possible Causes
(G4) DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY HIGH RESISTANCE
(G94) GROUND CIRCUIT HIGH RESISTANCE
DYNAMICS SENSOR INSTALLATION
DYNAMICS SENSOR
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C1210-G SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
With the scan tool, read and record DTCs.
With the scan tool, read and record Freeze Frame information.
Does the scan tool display: C1210-G SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
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2) CHECK THE TERMINALS/CONNECTORS/WIRING HARNESS FOR DAMAGE
Check the Dynamics Sensor installation.
Check all related wiring for bruised, chafed, pierced, or partially broken wires.
Check all related connectors for broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded terminals.
Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) (G4) DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY HIGH RESISTANCE
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Fig. 40: Measuring Resistance Of (G4) Dynamics Sensor Supply Circuit Between Dynamics Sensor
Harness Connector And Anti-Lock Brakes Module Harness Connector
Disconnect the Dynamics Sensor harness connector.
Disconnect the Anti-Lock Brakes Module harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (G4) Dynamics Sensor Supply circuit between the Dynamics Sensor
harness connector and the Anti-Lock Brakes Module harness connector.
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Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (G4) Dynamics Sensor Supply circuit for high resistance.
4) (G94) GROUND CIRCUIT HIGH RESISTANCE
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Fig. 41: Measuring Resistance Between (G94) Ground Circuit And Ground
Measure the resistance between the (G94) Ground circuit and ground.
Yes
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Go to 5).
No
Repair the (G94) Ground circuit for high resistance.

5) CHECK THE DYNAMICS SENSOR INSTALLATION
NOTE: Dynamics Sensor installation and mounting bolt torque is crucial for
proper operation.
Check the Dynamics Sensor for damaged, modified, and bent mounting brackets.
Check the Dynamics Sensor mounting bolts for a loose or over tightened condition.
Yes
No
Replace the Dynamics Sensor in accordance with the Service Information.

C1219-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
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Fig. 42: Steering Angle Sensor Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
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Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brake Module detects that the calculated steering wheel angle exceeds what is physically
possible.
Possible Causes
VEHICLE DAMAGE
STEERING COLUMN/INTERMEDIATE SHAFT DAMAGE
STEERING ANGLE SENSOR LOOSE
STEERING ANGLE SENSOR IMPROPERLY INSTALLED (WRONG MOUNTING POSITION)
(F202) FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-ACC) CIRCUIT HIGH RESISTANCE
(Z937) GROUND CIRCUIT HIGH RESISTANCE
STEERING ANGLE SENSOR
Diagnostic Test
1) PERFORM TEST DRIVE & VERIFY DTC IS STILL ACTIVE
With the scan tool, erase ABS DTCs.
Cycle the ignition switch.
WARNING: To avoid personal injury or death, check brake capability is available

before road testing.
Test drive the vehicle by turning the vehicle left or right in a curving manner at a velocity between 10 and
25 km/hr (6 and 15 mph.) for 1 minute.
Park the vehicle.
Does this DTC reset?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
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2) CHECK STEERING ANGLE SENSOR OUTPUT
Start the engine.
Center the steering wheel.
With the scan tool, read the Steering Angle Sensor Position.
Is the Steering Angle Sensor Position within ±15°?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Go to 8).
3) INSPECT VEHICLE, STEERING COLUMN, & INTERMEDIATE SHAFT FOR DAMAGE
NOTE: If possible, check vehicle repair history for collision damage.
Inspect the vehicle for damage causing tracking problems.
Inspect the steering column and intermediate shaft for damage.
Yes
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK STEERING ANGLE SENSOR INSTALLATION
WARNING: To avoid personal injury or death, on vehicles equipped with

airbags, disable the supplemental restraint system before attempting
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any steering wheel, steering column, airbag, occupant classification

system, seat belt tensioner, impact sensor, or instrument panel
component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the battery
negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the system
capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or
service. This is the only sure way to disable the supplemental
restraint system. Failure to take the proper precautions could result
in accidental airbag deployment.
NOTE: Proper Steering Angle Sensor installation is crucial for proper operation.
Verify that the Steering Angle Sensor is properly installed.
Is the Steering Angle Sensor properly installed?
Yes
Go to 5).
No
Repair as necessary and clear offsets by initializing ECU with wheels pointing straight ahead.
NOTE: A low voltage condition at the Steering Angle Sensor will cause this DTC
to set.
Check all related wiring for pinched, chafed, pierced, and partially broken wires.
Check all related connectors for broken, bent, pushed out, and corroded terminals.
Yes
No
Go to 6).
6) CHECK (F202) FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-ACC) CIRCUIT FOR HIGH
RESISTANCE
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Fig. 43: Measuring Voltage Of (F202) Fused Ignition Switch Output (Run-ACC) Circuit
Disconnect the Steering Angle Sensor harness connector.
Measure the voltage of the (F202) Fused Ignition Switch Output (Run-ACC) circuit.
Yes
Go to 7).
No
Repair the (F202) Fused Ignition Switch Output (Run-ACC) circuit for high resistance.
7) CHECK (Z937) GROUND CIRCUIT FOR HIGH RESISTANCE
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Fig. 44: Measuring Resistance Of (Z937) Ground Circuit Between Ground And Steering Angle
Sensor Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (Z937) Ground circuit between ground and the Steering Angle Sensor
harness connector.
Yes
Replace the Steering Angle Sensor in accordance with the Service Information and clear offsets by
initializing ECU with wheels pointing straight ahead. Refer to ABS VERIFICATION TEST.
No
Repair the (Z937) Ground circuit for high resistance.

8) CHECK STEERING ANGLE SENSOR OUTPUT WHILE ROTATING THE STEERING
WHEEL
With the scan tool, read the Steering Angle Sensor Position while rotating the steering wheel to the right
and then to the left. The Steering Angle Sensor Position should decrease when rotating the steering wheel
to the right and increase when rotating the steering wheel to the left.
Did the steering angle change accordingly?
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Yes
Replace the Anti-Lock Brake Module in accordance with the Service Information.
No
initializing ECU with wheels pointing straight ahead.
C121A-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR NOT INITIALIZED
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Anti-Lock Brake Module detects a low voltage at the Steering Angle Sensor or Steering Angle
Sensor failure.
Possible Causes
TERMINAL/CONNECTOR/WIRING HARNESS DAMAGE
(F943) FUSED B(+) CIRCUIT OPEN
(Z385) GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
STEERING CONTROL MODULE
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C121A-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR NOT INITIALIZED
Road test the vehicle over 30 km/h (19 mph) for at least 30 seconds.
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Does the scan tool display: C121A-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR NOT INITIALIZED?
Yes
Go to 2).
No

2) CHECK THE TERMINALS/CONNECTORS/WIRING HARNESS FOR DAMAGE

Check the Steering Angle Sensor installation.
Check all related wiring for bruised, chafed, pierced, or partially broken wires.
Check all related connectors for broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded terminals.
Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE VOLTAGE ON THE (F943) FUSED B(+) CIRCUIT
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Fig. 45: Measuring Voltage Of (F943) Fused B(+) Circuit

Disconnect the Steering Control Module harness connector.
Measure the voltage of the (F943) Fused B(+) circuit.

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Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (F943) Fused B(+) circuit for an open.

4) CHECK THE RESISTANCE OF THE (Z385) GROUND CIRCUIT
Fig. 46: Measuring Resistance Between (Z385) Ground Circuit And Ground
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Measure the resistance between the (Z385) Ground circuit and ground.
Yes
Replace the Steering Control Module in accordance with the Service Information.
No
Repair the (Z385) Ground circuit for an open.

C121C-TORQUE REQUEST SIGNAL DENIED
When Monitored:
With the engine running.
Set Condition:
When the Powertrain Control Module indicates, for an extended period of time, that engine management
relevant for Automatic Yaw Control/Traction Control System control can not be accomplished.
Possible Causes
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C121C-TORQUE REQUEST SIGNAL DENIED
NOTE: This DTC must be active for the results of this test to be valid and this DTC
may set while driving under severe load conditions.
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Start Engine.
With the scan tool, read and record DTCs and monitor ESP Torque Request status.
Does the scan tool display: C121C-TORQUE REQUEST SIGNAL DENIED?
Yes
Go to 2).
No

2) CHECK THE POWERTRAIN DTCS
With the scan tool, read and record Powertrain DTCs.
Were any Powertrain related DTCs found?
Yes
Repair the Powertrain System in accordance with the Service Information.
No
Go to 3).
3) ESP TORQUE REQUEST SIGNAL
Engine started.
With the scan tool, read the Allow ESP Torque Request status bit.
Was the Allow ESP Torque Request showing NOT set?
Yes
Replace the Powertrain Module in accordance with the Service Information.
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No
C121D-BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR CIRCUIT
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Anti-Lock Brake Module indicates that the Brake Pressure Sensor Signal is out of range.
Possible Causes
AIR IN BRAKE SYSTEM/WORN MECHANICAL COMPONENTS
ECU INTERNAL FAILURE
HCU INTERNAL FAILURE
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C121D-BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR CIRCUIT
Start the engine.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal.
Does the scan tool display: C121D-BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR CIRCUIT?
Yes
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Go to 2).
No

2) HCU/ECU ISOLATION
Separate the ECU from the HCU.
With the scan tool, monitor brake pressure.
Does the scan tool display brake pressure above 218 bar (3162 psi)?
Yes
Replace the HCU in accordance with the Service Information.

No
Replace the ECU in accordance with the Service Information.

C121E-BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Anti-Lock Brake Module indicates that the Brake Pressure Sensor Signal is out of range.
Possible Causes
AIR IN BRAKE SYSTEM/WORN MECHANICAL COMPONENTS
ECU INTERNAL FAILURE
HCU INTERNAL FAILURE
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C121E-BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR COMPARATIVE

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PERFORMANCE
Start the engine.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal.
Does the scan tool display: C121E-BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR COMPARATIVE

PERFORMANCE?
Yes
Go to 2).
No

2) HCU/ECU ISOLATION
Separate the ECU from the HCU.
With the scan tool, monitor brake pressure.
Does the scan tool display brake pressure above 218 bar (3162 psi)?
Yes
Replace the HCU in accordance with the Service Information.

No
Replace the ECU in accordance with the Service Information.

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C1231-DRIVE TEST: STEERING ANGLE SENSOR
When Monitored:
During the Drive Test.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects implausible Steering Angle Sensor data.
Possible Causes
STEERING ANGLE SENSOR INSTALLATION
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C1231-DRIVE TEST: STEERING ANGLE SENSOR
NOTE: If any of the following DTCs are present they must be repaired before
continuing.
DTC C1219-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR ERRATIC PERFORMANCE
DTC C123F-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
DTC C1240-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR ANGLE OVERTRAVEL PERFORMANCE
Perform ECU initialization with drive test. Perform ABS VERIFICATION TEST.
NOTE: The drive test requires a 90° turn.
Start the engine.

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Does the scan tool display: C1231-DRIVE TEST: STEERING ANGLE SENSOR?
Yes
Go to 2).
No

2) VERIFY THAT THE STEERING ANGLE SENSOR IS ACTIVE ON THE BUS
With the scan tool, select Steering Control Module.
Verify that the Steering Angle Sensor is active on the bus.
Is the Steering Angle Sensor active on the bus?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING for No Response related diagnostic procedures.

3) CHECK STEERING ANGLE
Turn steering wheel so wheels point in a straight ahead position.
With scan tool check steering angle.
Is the Steering Angle reading within ±15 degrees?
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 5).
4) CHECK STEERING ANGLE CHANGE
With scan tool check steering angle.

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Slowly rotate steering wheel while looking for a smooth change. The degrees will decrease to the right
and increase when rotating steering wheel to the left.
Yes
No

Verify that the Steering Angle Sensor is properly installed. Refer to INSTALLATION .
Yes
No
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C1232-DRIVE TEST: PRESSURE SENSOR
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Pressure Sensor fails to activate.
Possible Causes
HYDRAULIC/BRAKE SYSTEM COMPONENT INSTALLATION
INTEGRATED CONTROL UNIT
PRESSURE SENSOR (HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT)
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C1232-DRIVE TEST: PRESSURE SENSOR
Start the engine and apply the brake firmly.
Does the scan tool display: C1232-DRIVE TEST: PRESSURE SENSOR?
Yes
Go to 2).
No

2) CHECK HYDRAULIC SYSTEM & BRAKE SYSTEM COMPONENT INSTALLATION &
FUNCTION
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Verify that the Anti-Lock Brakes Module and Hydraulic Control Unit are properly installed.
Verify that the hydraulic system is properly filled and bled.
Verify that the brake system components are installed and functioning properly.
Yes
No
Clean contacts in HCU first if problem reoccurs replace the Integrated Control Unit in accordance
with the Service Information.
C1234-DRIVE TEST: SENSOR CLUSTER INSTALLATION
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects implausible Dynamics Sensor data.
Possible Causes
DYNAMICS SENSOR
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C1234-DRIVE TEST: SENSOR CLUSTER INSTALLATION
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NOTE: The drive test requires a 90° turn.
Start the engine.
Does the scan tool display: C1234-DRIVE TEST: SENSOR CLUSTER INSTALLATION?
Yes
Go to 2).
No

proper operation.
Yes
No

C1238-DRIVE TEST: UNSUCCESSFUL
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When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects a fault with the Steering Angle Sensor, the Pressure Sensor, or
the Dynamics Sensor.
Possible Causes
PRESSURE SENSOR
DYNAMICS SENSOR
Diagnostic Test
1) DIAGNOSE & REPAIR ALL DTCs
Repair
Diagnose and repair all DTCs.
C1239-EMISSIONS ROLLS TEST ACTIVE
Theory of Operation
The functional effects are that the output signal for all wheel speeds mimic the wheel with the highest wheel
speed.
This DTC sets when the Emissions Rolls Test is active.
Close out the Emissions Rolls Test though the Gateway Module.
C123A-ESP SYSTEM SENSORS CALIBRATION
When Monitored:
Once per ignition cycle.
Set Condition:
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If the calculated checksum does not match the stored checksum.
Possible Causes
Diagnostic Test
1) INITIALIZE ANTI-LOCK BRAKES MODULE
Initialize ECU refer to ABS VERIFICATION TEST.
Yes
No
Test complete.
C123B-ESP SYSTEM CONTROL TOO LONG
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When Monitored:
Set Condition:
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When the Anti-Lock Brake Module indicates ESP control lasting longer the 15 seconds.
Possible Causes
HYDRAULIC/BRAKE ISSUE
DYNAMICS SENSOR
INTEGRATED CONTROL MODULE
Diagnostic Test
1) VERIFY DTC IS ACTIVE
NOTE: If other DTC's are set they must be repaired before continuing. This DTC
must be active for the results of this test to be valid and this DTC may set
while driving under excessive driving conditions.
With the scan tool, read and record ABS DTCs.
With the scan tool, read and record Environmental Data (EV Data).
20 km/h (6 and 12 mph).
Park the vehicle.
Yes
Go to 2).
No

2) CHECK HYDRAULIC SYSTEM & BRAKE SYSTEM COMPONENT INSTALLATION &
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FUNCTION
Verify that the Anti-Lock Brakes Module and Hydraulic Control Unit are properly installed.
Verify that the hydraulic system is properly filled and bled.
Verify that the brake system components are installed and functioning properly.
Yes
No

C123C-DYNAMICS SENSOR MOUNTING/INSTALLATION PERFORMANCE
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When Monitored:
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With vehicle speed above 11 km/h (7 mph), but not if the sensor signal is invalid.
Or, during skidding.
Or, when driving in reverse.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects implausible Dynamics Sensor values.
Possible Causes
DYNAMICS SENSOR
Diagnostic Test
NOTE: If present, diagnose and repair DTC C2114-DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY

VOLTAGE LOW or DTC C2115-DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY VOLTAGE
HIGH before diagnosing this DTC.
20 km/h (6 and 12 mph).
Park the vehicle.
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Yes
Go to 2).
No
proper operation.
Yes
No
Go to 3).
wires.
terminals.
Yes
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No

C123F-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
With ignition on, but not if a checksum failure of the stored offset values is detected.
Or, a CAN time-out failure is detected.
Or, a failure is detected by the Steering Angle Sensor.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects that either the calculated steering wheel angle offset or the
steering wheel angle signal measured output is out of range.
Possible Causes
VEHICLE DAMAGE
STEERING WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Diagnostic Test
NOTE: If present, diagnose and repair DTC C1219-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR

ERRATIC PERFORMANCE, C121A-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR NOT
INITIALIZED, or C1240-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR OVERTRAVEL
PERFORMANCE before diagnosing this DTC.
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25 km/h (6 and 15 mph).
Park the vehicle.
Yes
Go to 2).
No

Inspect the vehicle for damage causing tracking problems or steering wheel misalignment.
Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK STEERING ANGLE SENSOR OUTPUT
Start the engine.
Turn the steering wheel so wheels point in a straight ahead position.
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With the scan tool, read the Steering Angle Sensor position.
Is the Steering Angle Sensor Position within ± 15° degrees?
Yes
Go to 5).
No
Go to 4).

Verify that the Steering Angle Sensor is properly installed.
Yes
Go to 5).
No
5) RE-INITIALIZE THE ESP MODULE
Perform ECU initialization with drive test to clear offsets. Perform ABS VERIFICATION TEST.
Is DTC C123F-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR COMPARATIVE PERFORMANCE still active?
Yes
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Go to 6).
No
Sensor was probably loose or calibrated with wheels not centered to vehicle. Test complete.
6) CHECK STEERING ANGLE SENSOR OUTPUT WHILE ROTATING THE STEERING
WHEEL
With the scan tool, read the Steering Angle Sensor position while rotating the steering wheel to the right
and then to the left. The Steering Angle Sensor position should decrease when rotating the steering wheel
to the right and increase when rotating the steering wheel to the left.
Yes
No
C1240-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR OVERTRAVEL PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
With ignition on, but not if a CAN time out failure is detected.
Or, if a fault is detected by the Steering Angle Sensor.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects that the absolute value of the measured steering wheel angle is
greater than 720 degrees.
Possible Causes
VEHICLE DAMAGE
STEERING WHEEL ALIGNMENT
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Diagnostic Test

25 km/h (6 and 15 mph).
Park the vehicle.
Yes
Go to 2).
No

Inspect the vehicle for damage causing tracking problems or steering wheel misalignment.
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Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK STEERING ANGLE CHANGE
With scan tool check steering angle if reading travels to 720 degrees while rotating wheel from lock to
lock.
NOTE: Sensor damage can occur if wheel is turned over 720 degrees.
Rotate steering wheel to the right and the degrees will decrease and rotate steering wheel to the left and
the degrees will increase.
Did the steering angle change accordingly and display less than 720 degrees from lock to lock?
Yes
Go to 4).
No

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Verify that the Steering Angle Sensor is properly installed. Refer to INSTALLATION .
Yes
Replace the Steering Angle Sensor and clear offsets by initializing ECU with wheels pointing
straight ahead, in accordance with the Service Information.
No
C1242-G SENSOR INPUT SIGNAL PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Continuously, with ignition on and vehicle speed present.
Set Condition:
If the measured acceleration and calculated signal differs or have opposite signs.
Possible Causes
DYNAMICS SENSOR
Diagnostic Test
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Test drive the vehicle by turning the vehicle left or right in a curving manner at a velocity greater than 20
km/hr (12 m.p.h.).
Park the vehicle.
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Perform the ABS INTERMITTENT CONDITION diagnostic proceduren.

proper operation.
Yes
No

C1243-G SENSOR NOT INITIALIZED

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When Monitored:
Once after ignition on.
Set Condition:
If the stored zero point calibration value of the longitudinal acceleration sensor is invalid.
Possible Causes
DYNAMICS SENSOR NOT CALIBRATED
DYNAMICS SENSOR
Diagnostic Test
1) PERFORM ECU INITIALIZATION

NOTE: The ECU Initialization process must include driving the vehicle into a 90°
turn.
Park the vehicle.
Go to 2).
2) VERIFY IF DTC IS STILL ACTIVE

25 km/h (6 and 15 mph).
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Park the vehicle.
Yes
NOTE: Vehicles without a Dynamics Sensor replace Anti-Lock Brake

Module.
Replace the Dynamics Sensor or Anti-Lock Brake Module in accordance with the Service
Information.
No
Perform the ABS INTERMITTENT CONDITION procedure.
C2100-BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects system voltage is below 9.5 volts.
Possible Causes
ECM OR PCM DTCs PRESENT
VEHICLE BATTERY/CHARGING SYSTEM
Diagnostic Test
1) DTCS IN THE PCM
With the scan tool, read and record DTCs from the PCM.
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Start the engine.
With the scan tool read DTCs from the PCM.
Are any charging system codes present?
Yes
Repair the charging system DTC in the PCM.

No
Go to 2).
2) CHARGING SYSTEM FAILURE
Start the engine.
Connect voltmeter to vehicle battery.
Is the vehicle battery voltage under 8.2 volts?
No
Yes
Repair the charging system per service information.

C2101-BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
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If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects system voltage is above 17 volts.
Possible Causes
ECM/PCM DTCs PRESENT
VEHICLE BATTERY/CHARGING SYSTEM
Diagnostic Test
With the scan tool, read and record DTCs from the ECM/PCM.
Start the engine.
With the scan tool read DTCs from the PCM.
Are any charging system codes present?
Yes
Repair the charging system DTC in the ECM/PCM.

No
Go to 2).
2) CHARGING SYSTEM FAILURE
Start the engine.
Connect voltmeter to vehicle battery.
Is the vehicle battery voltage over 16.8 volts?
No
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Go to 3).
Yes
Repair the charging system per service information.

3) CHARGING POWER SUPPLY VOLTAGE
With a scan tool read Power Supply Voltage.
Is Power Supply Voltage over 16.8 volts?
No

Refer to the .
Yes
C2111-SENSOR SUPPLY 1 VOLTAGE CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects that the supply voltage for external analog sensors is out of
range.
Possible Causes
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT (PRESSURE SENSOR)
Diagnostic Test
1) REPLACE ANTI-LOCK BRAKES MODULE & VERIFY IF DTC IS STILL ACTIVE
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Yes
Replace the Hydraulic Control Unit in accordance with the Service Information.
No
C2112-SENSOR SUPPLY 1 VOLTAGE CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects that the supply voltage for external analog sensors is out of
range.
Possible Causes
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT (PRESSURE SENSOR)
Diagnostic Test
Replace the Anti-Lock Brakes Module in accordance with the Service Information. Perform ABS
VERIFICATION TEST. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.

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Yes
No
C2114-DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY VOLTAGE LOW
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When Monitored:
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Set Condition:
If the Dynamics Sensor status changes from initialized to not initialized due to low voltage on the (G4)
Dynamics Sensor Supply circuit.
Possible Causes
(G4) DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY CIRCUIT HIGH RESISTANCE
(G94) DYNAMICS SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT HIGH RESISTANCE
DYNAMICS SENSOR
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No

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Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (G4) DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY CIRCUIT & (G94) DYNAMICS SENSOR
GROUND CIRCUIT FUNCTION
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Fig. 50: Measuring Voltage Between (G4) Dynamics Sensor Supply Circuit And (G94) Dynamics
Sensor Ground Circuit
Measure the voltage between the (G4) Dynamics Sensor Supply Circuit and the (G94) Dynamics Sensor
Ground Circuit.

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Yes

No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK (G4) DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY CIRCUIT FOR HIGH RESISTANCE
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Fig. 51: Measuring Resistance Of (G4) Dynamics Sensor Supply Circuit Between Dynamics Sensor
Harness Connector And Anti-Lock Brakes Module Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (G4) Dynamics Sensor Supply circuit between the Dynamics Sensor
Yes
Go to 5).
No
Repair the (G4) Dynamics Sensor Supply circuit for high resistance.
5) CHECK (G94) DYNAMICS SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT FOR HIGH RESISTANCE
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Fig. 52: Measuring Resistance Of (G94) Dynamics Sensor Ground Circuit Between Dynamics
Sensor Harness Connector And Anti-Lock Brakes Module Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (G94) Dynamics Sensor Ground circuit between the Dynamics Sensor
Yes
No
Repair the (G94) Dynamics Sensor Ground circuit for high resistance.
C2115-DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY VOLTAGE HIGH
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When Monitored:
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Upon ignition on, prior to switching the (G4) Dynamics Sensor Supply circuit power on.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects voltage on the (G4) Dynamics Sensor Supply circuit when the
circuit's power is turned off.
Possible Causes
(G4) DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No

Refer to the .
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Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (G4) DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORT FOR A SHORT TO
VOLTAGE
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Fig. 54: Measuring Voltage Of (G4) Dynamics Sensor Supply Circuit

Measure the voltage of the (G4) Dynamics Sensor Supply Circuit.
Yes
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Repair the (G4) Dynamics Sensor Supply Circuit for a short to voltage.
No
C2116-ABS PUMP MOTOR SUPPLY LOW VOLTAGE
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Fig. 55: Anti-Lock Brakes Module Circuit Schematic

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When Monitored:
With the ignition on and the ABS Pump Motor deactivated, but not if supply voltage faults are detected.
Or, if the control is switched off.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects either a low voltage condition when the ABS Pump Motor is
activated or deactivated or a high voltage condition when the ABS Pump Motor is deactivated.
Possible Causes
ABS PUMP MOTOR FUSE OPEN
(A107) FUSED B(+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND, OPEN, OR HIGH RESISTANCE
(Z127) OR (Z107) GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN, OR HIGH RESISTANCE
PUMP MOTOR (HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT)
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C2116-ABS PUMP MOTOR SUPPLY LOW VOLTAGE
meet.
Does the scan tool display: C2116-ABS PUMP MOTOR SUPPLY LOW VOLTAGE?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
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Visually inspect the Anti-Lock Brakes Module harness connector and wiring harness for damage.
Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK ABS PUMP MOTOR FUSE
Remove and visually inspect the ABS Pump Motor fuse.
Is the fuse open?
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 5).
4) CHECK (A107) FUSED B(+) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
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Fig. 56: Measuring Resistance Of (A107) Fused B(+) Circuit Between Ground And Anti-Lock
Brakes Module Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (A107) Fused B(+) circuit between ground and the Anti-Lock Brakes
Module harness connector.
Is the resistance below 10k ohms?
Yes
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No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK (A107) FUSED B(+) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
Fig. 57: Probing (A107) Fused B+ Circuit

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Replace the ABS Pump Motor fuse.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to ground, probe the (A107) Fused B(+) circuit.
NOTE: The test light should illuminate brightly. Compare the brightness to that of
a direct connection to the battery.
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Repair the (A107) Fused B(+) circuit for an open or high resistance.
6) CHECK (Z127) OR (Z107) GROUND CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
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Fig. 58: Probing (Z127) And (Z107) Ground Circuit

Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12 volts, probe the (Z127) and (Z107) Ground circuit.
Does the test light illuminate brightly on both circuits?
Yes
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Go to 7).
No
Repair (Z127) or (Z107) circuit for an open or high resistance.

Yes
No
C2200-ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE INTERNAL
When Monitored:
Ignition on. The Anti-Lock Brake Module monitors its internal microprocessors for correct operation.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-lock brake module detects an internal fault, the DTC is set.
Possible Causes
ABM - INTERNAL FAULT
Diagnostic Test
1) ABM INTERNAL FAILURE DTC PRESENT

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Does the scan tool display ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE INTERNAL FAILURE?
Yes
No
C2204-DYNAMICS SENSOR INTERNAL
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When Monitored:
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Continuously, with ignition on, until vehicle speed exceeds 20 km/h (12.4 mph) for the first time, but not
if the sensor voltage is out of range.
Or, during diagnostic mode.
Or, if the monitoring was inhibited by a corresponding diagnostics command.
Or, if the vehicle speed has exceeded 20 km/h (12.4 mph) during the actual ignition cycle.
Or, if at least one over spinning wheel is detected.
Or, if one of the control functions is active.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects that the Lateral Sensor signal is out of range.
Possible Causes
DYNAMICS SENSOR
Diagnostic Test
20 km/h (6 and 12 mph).
Park the vehicle.
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Yes
Go to 2).
No

proper operation.
Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) DYNAMICS SENSOR
Connect all previously disconnected components and connectors.
Did DTC C2204-DYNAMICS SENSOR INTERNAL reset?
Yes
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Replace the Anti-Lock Brake Module

No
Repair is complete.
C2205-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR INTERNAL
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Fig. 60: Steering Angle Sensor Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
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With ignition on, but not if supply voltage faults are detected.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects that the Steering Angle Sensor sends an internal failure message.
Possible Causes
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C2205-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR INTERNAL
Start the vehicle and turn the wheel from lock to lock.
25 km/h (6 and 15 mph).
Park the vehicle.
Does the scan tool display: C2205-STEERING ANGLE SENSOR INTERNAL?
Yes
Replace the Steering Angle Sensor in accordance with the Service Information.
No
Refer to the ABS INTERMITTENT CONDITION diagnostic procedure.

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C2206-VEHICLE CONFIGURATION MISMATCH
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Anti-Lock Brake Module detects the signal from the gateway module relevant for vehicle
characteristic is missing or does not match for a period greater than the specified fault duration.
Possible Causes
TIPM/PCM NOT CONFIGURED CORRECTLY
ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE NOT INITIALIZED
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC C2206-VEHICLE CONFIGURATION MISMATCH
NOTE: This DTC will be active when a new module is installed until initialization is
performed.
Perform ECU initialization with drive test on ABM. Perform ABS VERIFICATION TEST.
Does the scan tool display: C2206-VEHICLE CONFIGURATION MISMATCH?
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Yes
Go to 2).
No

2) VERIFY THAT THE TIPM/PCM IS CONFIGURED CORRECTLY
Check the following data to verify the TIPM/PCM is configured correctly. Engine Displacement (PCM),
XWD 4x2, 4x4, all Wheel Drive, (TIPM), Axle ratio (TIPM), Vehicle Line (TIPM), Brake type 0= ABS
1=ESP (TIPM).
NOTE: The DTC will be active when a new controller is installed until initialization
is performed.
Was the TIPM/PCM configured correctly?
Yes
No
Reprogram the appropriate module.

U0002-CAN C BUS OFF PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
The Anti-Lock Brake Module detects a corrupt CAN C Bus message.
Possible Causes
(D65) CAN C BUS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(D64) CAN C BUS (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
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(D65) CAN C BUS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE

(D64) CAN C BUS (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(D65) CAN C BUS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO (D64) CAN C BUS (-) CIRCUIT
ANTILOCK BRAKE MODULE
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE
ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (DIESEL ONLY)
TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE
AUTOMATIC SWAY BAR SYSTEM MODULE
WIRELESS CONTROL MODULE
OCCUPANT RESTRAINT CONTROLLER MODULE
OCCUPANT CLASSIFICATION MODULE
Diagnostic Test
1) TEST FOR INTERMITTENT CONDITION
With the scan tool, record and erase TIPM DTCs.
Cycle the ignition from on to off 3 times.
With the scan tool, read active TIPM DTCs.
Does the scan tool display U0002-CAN C BUS OFF PERFORMANCE as active?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
The conditions that caused this code to set are not present at this time. Using the wiring
diagram/schematic as a guide, inspect the wiring and connectors.
2) ANTILOCK BRAKE MODULE - INTERNAL SHORT

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Yes
Go to 3).
No
Inspect the wiring and connectors for damage or shorted circuits in accordance with the service
information. If ok, replace and program the Anti-Lock Brake Module in accordance with the
service information.
3) POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE - INTERNAL SHORT
Disconnect the Powertrain Control Module C1 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Inspect the wiring and connectors for damage or shorted circuits. If ok, replace and program the
Powertrain Control Module in accordance with the service information.
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4) ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (DIESEL ONLY) - INTERNAL SHORT
NOTE: If vehicle is not equipped with this module, answer yes to the question.
Disconnect the Engine Control Module harness connectors.
Yes
Go to 5).
No
Engine Control Module in accordance with the service information.
Perform PCM/ECM PROGRAMMING - GAS, POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST .
5) TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE - INTERNAL SHORT
Disconnect the Transmission Control Module harness connectors.

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Yes
Go to 6).
No
Transmission Control Module in accordance with the service information.
6) STEERING ANGLE SENSOR - INTERNAL SHORT
Disconnect the Steering Angle Sensor harness connector.
Yes
Go to 7).
No
Inspect the wiring and connectors for damage or shorted circuits. If ok, replace the Steering Angle
Sensor in accordance with the service information.
7) AUTOMATIC SWAY BAR SYSTEM MODULE - INTERNAL SHORT

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Disconnect the Automatic Sway Bar System Module harness connector.
Yes
Go to 8).
No
Inspect the wiring and connectors for damage or shorted circuits. If ok, replace the Automatic Sway
Bar System Module in accordance with the service information.
Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1 .
8) WIRELESS CONTROL MODULE - INTERNAL SHORT
Disconnect the Wireless Control Module harness connector.
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Yes
Go to 9).
No
Inspect the wiring and connectors for damage or shorted circuits. If ok, replace the Wireless
Control Module in accordance with the service information.
9) OCCUPANT RESTRAINT CONTROLLER MODULE - INTERNAL SHORT
Disconnect the Occupant Restraint Controller Module harness connectors.
Yes
Go to 10).
No
Inspect the wiring and connectors for damage or shorted circuits. If ok, replace the Occupant
Restraint Controller Module in accordance with the service information.
10) OCCUPANT CLASSIFICATION MODULE - INTERNAL SHORT
Disconnect the Occupant Classification Module harness connectors.

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Yes
Go to 11).
No
Inspect the wiring and connectors for damage or shorted circuits. If ok, replace the Occupant
Classification Module in accordance with the service information.
11) (D65) CAN C BUS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 61: Measuring Voltage Between (D65) CAN C Bus (+) Circuit And Ground
Disconnect the Totally Integrated Power Module C1 harness connector.
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Measure the voltage between the (D65) CAN C Bus (+) circuit and ground.
Is there any voltage present?
Yes
Repair the (D65) CAN C Bus (+) circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Go to 12).
12) (D64) CAN C BUS (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 62: Measuring Voltage Between (D64) CAN C Bus (-) Circuit And Ground
Measure the voltage between the (D64) CAN C Bus (-) circuit and ground.
Yes
Repair the (D64) CAN C Bus (-) circuit for a short to voltage.
No
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Go to 13).
13) (D65) CAN C BUS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
Fig. 63: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (D65) CAN C Bus (+) Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (D65) CAN C Bus (+) circuit.
Is any resistance present?
Yes
Repair the (D65) CAN C Bus (+) circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 14).
14) (D64) CAN C BUS (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
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Fig. 64: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (D64) CAN C Bus (-) Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (D64) CAN C Bus (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (D64) CAN C Bus (-) circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 15).
15) (D65) CAN C BUS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO (D64) CAN C BUS (-) CIRCUIT
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Fig. 65: Measuring Resistance Between (D65) CAN C Bus (+) Circuit And (D64) CAN C Bus (-)
Circuit
Measure the resistance between the (D65) CAN C Bus (+) circuit and the (D64) CAN C Bus (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (D65) CAN C Bus (+) circuit for a short to the (D64) CAN C Bus (-) circuit.
No
Totally Integrated Power Module in accordance with the service information.
U0100-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ECM/PCM
When Monitored:
With the ignition on
Battery voltage between 10 and 16 volts
IOD fuse installed
Set Condition:
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If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module fails to receive bus messages from the ECM or PCM for approximately
500 ms.
Possible Causes
DTCs RELATED TO BATTERY VOLTAGE, IGNITION, OR VIN MESSAGES
CAN C BUS CIRCUITS OPEN OR SHORTED
ECM OR PCM POWER AND GROUND
ECM OR PCM
Diagnostic Test
NOTE: Verify the IOD fuse is installed and battery voltage is between 10 and 16
volts before proceeding.
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FOR ANY OF THE FOLLOWING ACTIVE DTCs
With the scan tool, read all active DTCs from all CAN C Bus modules.
NOTE: Check for CAN C hardware electrical, VIN Missing/Mismatch, battery or

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ignition related DTCs.
Does the scan tool display any active DTCs related to the conditions listed above?
Yes
Diagnose and repair the DTC(s). Refer to the DIAGNOSTIC CODE INDEX .
No
Go to 3).
3) VERIFY THAT THE ECM OR PCM IS ACTIVE ON THE BUS
With the scan tool, select ECU View.
Verify that the ECM or PCM is active on the bus.
Is the ECM or PCM active on the bus?
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Perform the Stored Lost Communication test procedure. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .
4) CHECK FOR ADDITIONAL COMMUNICATION RELATED DTCs
With the scan tool, select Network View and select Advanced.
Is there more than one module with active DTCs "Logged Against" the ECM or PCM?
Yes
Replace/update the ECM or PCM in accordance with the service information.

No
Replace the Anti-Lock Brakes Module in accordance with the service information.
U0101-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH TCM

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When Monitored:
IOD fuse installed
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module fails to receive bus messages from the TCM for approximately 500 ms.
Possible Causes
TCM POWER AND GROUND
PCM DTCs PRESENT
TCM
Diagnostic Test
NOTE: Verify the IOD fuse is installed and battery voltage is between 10 and 16
NOTE: If present, diagnose and repair DTC U0002-CAN C BUS OFF

PERFORMANCE, DTC or DTC U1502-IMPLAUSIBLE MESSAGE DATA
LENGTH RECEIVED FROM TIPM before diagnosing this DTC.
Yes
Go to 2).
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No
Perform the Stored Lost Communication test procedure. Refer to DIAGNOSTIC CODE INDEX .
Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .

Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) VERIFY THAT THE TCM IS ACTIVE ON THE BUS
Verify that the TCM is active on the bus.
Is the TCM active on the bus?
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Refer to the DIAGNOSTIC CODE INDEX for a no response test procedure.

Is there more than one module with active DTCs "Logged Against" the TCM?
Yes
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Replace/update the TCM in accordance with the service information.

No
U0125-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH DYNAMICS SENSOR
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When Monitored:
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Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module fails to receive bus messages from the Dynamics Sensor.
Possible Causes
(D52) DYNAMICS SENSOR HIGH DATA LINK CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND, SHORTED
TO VOLTAGE, OR OPEN
(D51) DYNAMICS SENSOR LOW DATA LINK CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND, SHORTED TO
VOLTAGE, OR OPEN
DYNAMICS SENSOR
Diagnostic Test
NOTE: If present, diagnose and repair DTC C2114-DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY

VOLTAGE LOW or DTC C2115-DYNAMICS SENSOR SUPPLY VOLTAGE
HIGH before proceeding.
Yes
Go to 2).
No
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wires.
terminals.
Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (D52) DYNAMICS SENSOR HIGH DATA LINK CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO
VOLTAGE
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Fig. 67: Measuring Voltage Of (D52) Dynamics Sensor High Data Link Circuit
Measure the voltage of the (D52) Dynamics Sensor High Data Link circuit.
Yes
Repair the (D52) Dynamics Sensor High Data Link circuit for a short to voltage.
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No
Go to 4).
GROUND
Fig. 68: Measuring Resistance Of (D52) Dynamics Sensor High Data Link Circuit Between Ground
And Dynamics Sensor Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (D52) Dynamics Sensor High Data Link circuit between ground and the
Dynamics Sensor harness connector.
Yes
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Repair the (D52) Dynamics Sensor High Data Link circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK THE (D52) DYNAMICS SENSOR HIGH DATA LINK CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
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Fig. 69: Measuring Resistance Of (D52) Dynamics Sensor High Data Link Circuit Between
Dynamics Sensor Harness Connector And Anti-Lock Brakes Module Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (D52) Dynamics Sensor High Data Link circuit between the Dynamics
Sensor harness connector and the Anti-Lock Brakes Module harness connector.
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Repair the (D52) Dynamics Sensor High Data Link circuit for an open.
6) CHECK THE (D51) DYNAMICS SENSOR LOW DATA LINK CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO
VOLTAGE
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Fig. 70: Measuring Voltage Of (D51) Dynamics Sensor Low Data Link Circuit
Measure the voltage of the (D51) Dynamics Sensor Low Data Link circuit.
Yes
Repair the (D51) Dynamics Sensor Low Data Link circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Go to 7).
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GROUND
Fig. 71: Measuring Resistance Of (D51) Dynamics Sensor Low Data Link Circuit Between Ground
Measure the resistance of the (D51) Dynamics Sensor Low Data Link circuit between ground and the
Yes
Repair the (D51) Dynamics Sensor Low Data Link circuit for a short to ground.
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No
Go to 8).
8) CHECK THE (D51) DYNAMICS SENSOR LOW DATA LINK CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
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Fig. 72: Measuring Resistance Of (D51) Dynamics Sensor Low Data Link Circuit Between
Measure the resistance of the (D51) Dynamics Sensor Low Data Link circuit between the Dynamics
Yes

No
Repair the (D51) Dynamics Sensor Low Data Link circuit for an open.
U0126-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH STEERING ANGLE SENSOR
When Monitored:
IOD fuse installed
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module fails to receive bus messages from the Steering Angle Sensor for
approximately 500 ms.
Possible Causes
(F202) FUSED B(+) CIRCUIT OPEN
STEERING ANGLE SENSOR POWER AND GROUND
Diagnostic Test
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NOTE: Ensure the IOD fuse is installed and battery voltage is between 10 and 16
Yes
Go to 2).
No

Yes
No
Go to 3).
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3) VERIFY THAT THE STEERING ANGLE SENSOR IS ACTIVE ON THE BUS
Verify that the Steering Angle Sensor is active on the bus.
Is the Steering Angle Sensor active on the bus?
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Refer to the Stored Lost Communication test procedure. Refer to the DIAGNOSTIC CODE
INDEX .
4) CHECK THE WIRING HARNESS, TERMINALS, AND CONNECTORS

Check the Steering Angle Sensor installation.
Visually inspect the related wiring harness. Look for any bruised, chafed, pierced, or partially broken
wires.
Visually inspect the related wiring harness connectors. Look for broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded
terminals.
Yes
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No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK THE VOLTAGE OF THE STEERING CONTROL MODULE (F202) FUSED B(+)
CIRCUIT
Measure the voltage of the (F202) Fused B(+) circuit.
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Repair the (F202) Fused B(+) circuit for an open.

6) CHECK THE RESISTANCE OF THE STEERING CONTROL MODULE (Z937) GROUND
CIRCUIT
Measure resistance between the (Z937) Ground circuit and ground.
Yes
Go to 7).
No
Repair the (Z937) Ground circuit for an open.

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Is there more than one module with active DTCs "Logged Against" the STEERING ANGLE
SENSOR?
Yes
Replace/update the Steering Angle Sensor in accordance with the service information.
No
U0141-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH FRONT CONTROL MODULE
When Monitored:
IOD fuse installed
TIPM is configured correctly
Set Condition:
Bus messages not received from the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) for approximately 2 to 5
seconds.
Possible Causes
DTCS RELATED TO BATTERY VOLTAGE, IGNITION, OR VIN MESSAGES
TIPM NOT CONFIGURED CORRECTLY
TOTALLY INTEGRATED CONTROL MODULE
MODULE THAT SET THIS DTC
Diagnostic Test
NOTE: Ensure the IOD fuse is installed and battery voltage is between 10 and 16
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With the scan tool, read active DTCs.
Is this DTC active?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Refer to the Stored Lost Communication test procedure. Refer to DIAGNOSTIC CODE INDEX .
2) CHECK FOR ANY OF THE FOLLOWING ACTIVE DTCS
With the scan tool, read all active DTCs from all modules.
NOTE: Check for TIPM configuration, CAN B or C hardware electrical, VIN

Missing/Mismatch, battery or ignition related DTCs.
Does the scan tool display any active DTCs to the conditions listed above?
Yes
Diagnose and repair the DTC. Refer to the DIAGNOSTIC CODE INDEX for a complete list of
the symptoms.
No
Go to 3).
3) VERIFY THAT THE TIPM IS ACTIVE ON THE BUS
With the scan tool, select Network Diagnostics.
Verify that the TIPM is active on the bus.
Is the TIPM active on the bus?
Yes
Go to 4).
No
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Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING for No Response diagnostic procedures.

4) CHECK FOR ADDITIONAL COMMUNICATION RELATED DTCS
With the scan tool, select Network Diagnostics.
Is there more than one module with active DTCs "Logged Against" the TIPM?
Yes
Replace/update the Front Control Module in accordance with the service information.
No
Replace/update the module that set this DTC in accordance with the service information
U0401-IMPLAUSIBLE DATA RECEIVED FROM ECM/PCM
When Monitored:
Continuously with the ignition on, one valid CAN message received at least once, and no U0002-CAN C
Bus Off Performance DTC present.
Set Condition:
When the Anti-Lock Brake Module detects an incorrect CAN message from the Engine Module.
Possible Causes
ABM CAN BUS DTCS
ENGINE DTCS
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR DTC U0401-IMPLAUSIBLE DATA RECEIVED FROM ECM/PCM

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Does the scan tool display: U0401-IMPLAUSIBLE DATA RECEIVED FROM ECM/PCM?
Yes
Go to 2).
No

2) CHECK IF TIPM CAN BUS DTCs ARE PRESENT
With the scan tool, read TIPM DTCs.
Are there any TIPM CAN BUS DTCs present?
Yes
Refer to the appropriate diagnostic. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.

No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK IF ENGINE DTCs ARE PRESENT
Yes
Refer to the Engine ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS article and diagnose the appropriate symptom.
No
Using the schematics as a guide, check the Anti-Lock Brake Module pins, terminals, and
connectors for corrosion, damage, or terminal push out. Pay particular attention to all power and
ground circuits. If no problems are found, replace the Anti-Lock Brake Module per the Service
Information.
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U0429-IMPLAUSIBLE DATA RECEIVED FROM SCM
When Monitored:
With ignition on, but not if low voltage is detected.
Or, if a CAN Bus off event is detected.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects either the sequence or integrity of the Steering Angle Sensor
messages is invalid.
Possible Causes
CAN C BUS CIRCUIT(S) SHORTED
LOAD TOO HIGH ON CAN C BUS
STEERING ANGLE SENSOR DTCs PRESENT
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK IF COMMUNICATION RELATED DTCs ARE PRESENT
Are any Communication related DTCs present?
Yes
Diagnose and repair the DTC(s). Refer to the DIAGNOSTIC CODE INDEX for a complete list of
symptoms.
No
Go to 2).
2) CHECK IF OTHER STEERING ANGLE SENSOR RELATED DTCs ARE PRESENT
Are any other STEERING ANGLE SENSOR DTCs present?
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Yes
symptoms.
No
Replace the Steering Angle Sensor in accordance with the Service Information.
U1003-ESP CAN C BUS PERFORMANCE
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When Monitored:
Set Condition:
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If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects too many CAN Bus off events on the Dynamics Sensor Data
Link circuits.
Possible Causes
(D52) DYNAMICS SENSOR HIGH DATA LINK CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND, VOLTAGE,
OR OPEN
(D51) DYNAMICS SENSOR LOW DATA LINK CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND, VOLTAGE,
OR OPEN
DYNAMICS SENSOR
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No
wires.
terminals.
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Yes
No
Go to 3).
VOLTAGE
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Yes
No
Go to 4).
GROUND
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Yes
No
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Go to 5).
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Microsoft
Yes
Go to 6).
No
VOLTAGE
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Yes
No
Go to 7).
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GROUND
Yes
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No
Go to 8).
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Microsoft
Yes
Go to 9).
No
9) REPLACE DYNAMICS SENSOR & VERIFY IF DTC IS STILL ACTIVE
Replace the Dynamics Sensor in accordance with the Service Information. Perform ABS
VERIFICATION TEST.
25 km/h (6 and 15 mph).
Park the vehicle.
Yes
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No
U1104-CAN C BUS CRC PERFORMANCE

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When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects an invalid CAN message from the Dynamics Sensor.
Possible Causes
(D52) DYNAMICS SENSOR HIGH DATA LINK CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND, VOLTAGE,
OR OPEN
(D51) DYNAMICS SENSOR LOW DATA LINK CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND, VOLTAGE,
OR OPEN
DYNAMICS SENSOR
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No
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proper operation.
Yes
No
Go to 3).
wires.
terminals.
Yes
No
Go to 4).
VOLTAGE
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Yes
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No
Go to 5).
GROUND
Yes
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No
Go to 6).
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Microsoft
Yes
Go to 7).
No
VOLTAGE
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Yes
No
Go to 8).
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GROUND
Yes
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No
Go to 9).
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Microsoft
Yes

No
U140E-IMPLAUSIBLE VEHICLE CONFIGURATION DATA RECEIVED
When Monitored:
Once per ignition cycle, but not during cranking.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module either fails to receive vehicle configuration data from the Engine Control
Module (ECM) or Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or the configuration data it receives from the ECM
or PCM is different than that received during the previous ignition cycle.
Possible Causes
ECM OR PCM NOT PROGRAMMED OR PROGRAMMED WITH INCORRECT VIN
TIPM NOT PROGRAMMED OR PROGRAMMED WITH INCORRECT INFORMATION
ECM OR PCM
Diagnostic Test
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Yes
Go to 2).
No

Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK IF TIPM DTCs ARE PRESENT
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Are any DTCs present?
Yes
No
Go to 4).
4) VERIFY TIPM IS CONFIGURED CORRECTLY
With the scan tool, verify that the TIPM part number and configuration is correct for the vehicle.
Is the correct TIPM installed in the vehicle?
No
Replace and program the TIPM in accordance with the Service Information.
Yes
Go to 5).
5) CHECK IF ECM OR PCM DTCs ARE PRESENT
With the scan tool, read ECM or PCM DTCs.
Yes
Diagnose and repair the DTC(s). Refer to appropriate Engine ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS
article .
No
Go to 6).
6) VERIFY CORRECT ECM OR PCM IS INSTALLED IN THE VEHICLE
With the scan tool, verify that the ECM or PCM part number is correct for the vehicle.
Is the correct ECM or PCM installed in the vehicle?
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Yes
Go to 7).
No
Replace and program the ECM or PCM in accordance with the Service Information.
7) VERIFY ECM OR PCM IS PROGRAMMED WITH CORRECT VIN
With the scan tool, verify that the ECM or PCM is programmed with the correct VIN.
Is the ECM or PCM programmed with the correct VIN?
Yes
Go to 8).
No
Using the scan tool, perform PCM Replaced to update the VIN in the PCM.
Yes

No
Using the schematics as a guide, check the Anti-Lock Brakes Module pins, terminals, and
connectors for corrosion, damage, and terminal push out. Pay particular attention to all
Communication circuits. If no problems are found, replace the Anti-Lock Brakes Module in
accordance with the Service Information.
U1501-IMPLAUSIBLE MESSAGE DATA LENGTH RECEIVED FROM ECM/PCM
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When Monitored:
Continuously, with ignition on.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects bus messages from the Engine Control Module (ECM) or
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) are of improper data length.
Possible Causes
ECM OR PCM
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No
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Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK IF ECM OR PCM DTCs ARE PRESENT
With the scan tool, read ECM or PCM DTCs.
Yes
Diagnose and repair the DTC(s). Refer to the appropriate Engine ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS
article .
No
Go to 4).
Yes

Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST . .
No
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U1502-IMPLAUSIBLE MESSAGE DATA LENGTH RECEIVED FROM TCM
When Monitored:
Continuously, with ignition on.
Set Condition:
If the Anti-Lock Brakes Module detects bus messages from the Transmission Control Module (TCM) are
of improper data length.
Possible Causes
TCM DTCs PRESENT
TCM
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
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No

Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK IF TCM DTCs ARE PRESENT
With the scan tool, read TCM DTCs.
Are any TCM DTCs present?
Yes
Diagnose and repair the DTC(s).

Perform 42RLE TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST .
No
U1503-IMPLAUSIBLE MESSAGE DATA LENGTH RECEIVED FROM FCM
When Monitored:
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Continuously with the ignition on.
Set Condition:
When the Anti-Lock Brake Module detects an incorrect CAN message from the Totally Integrated Power
Module (TIPM).
Possible Causes
TIPM CAN BUS DTCS
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK IF TIPM CAN BUS DTCs ARE PRESENT
Are there any TIPM CAN BUS DTCs present?
Yes
Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING and diagnose the appropriate symptom.

No
U1601-MISSING APPLICATION FILE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
During reflashing of the Anti-Lock Brake Module the process gets interrupted, times out or battery
voltage drops below the minimum voltage requirement.
Possible Causes
REFLASH MODULE
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Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR A DTC U1601-MISSING APPLICATION FILE
NOTE: This DTC must be active for the results of this test to be valid. Check for a
loose scan tool connection. Verify that battery charger is installed and
charge rate provides approximately 13.5 volts.
Connect scan tool, read DTCs.
Follow reprogramming procedure and reflash the module while maintaining voltage as noted above.
Perform ECU initialization with drive test on ABM. Perform ABS VERIFICATION TEST.
Does the scan tool display: U1601-MISSING APPLICATION FILE?
Yes
No
Repair complete.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
ABS VERIFICATION TEST
Diagnostic Test
1) ABS VERIFICATION TEST

NOTE: If the ABM (Anti-Lock Brake Module), SAS (Steering Angle Sensor),
Dynamics Sensor was replaced, it must be initialized using the scan tool. If
not initialized, the ABS indicator will flash continuously with no DTCs. To
initialize the ABM and clear offsets have wheels pointing straight ahead
and follow the directions on the scan tool. The drive test requires a 90°
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turn. If the Dynamics Sensor was replaced, test drive the vehicle by
turning the vehicle left or right in a curving manner at a velocity between
10 and 25 km/h (6 and 15 mph).
1. Turn the ignition off.
2. Connect all previously disconnected components and connectors.
3. Verify all accessories are turned off and the battery is fully charged.
4. Verify that the ignition is on, with the scan tool, erase all Diagnostic Trouble Codes from All modules.
Start the engine and allow it to run for 2 minutes and fully operate the system that was indicating the
failure.
5. Turn the ignition off and wait 5 seconds. Turn the ignition on and using the scan tool, read DTCs from
all modules.
6. If any Diagnostic Trouble Codes are present, return to symptom list and trouble shoot new or recurring
symptom.
NOTE: For Sensor Signal and Pump Motor faults, the ABM must sense all 4 wheels at 12 km/h (7.5
mph) before it will extinguish the ABS indicator.
7. If there are no DTCs present after turning ignition on, road test the vehicle for at least 5 minutes.
Perform several anti-lock braking stops.
8. Again, with the scan tool read DTCs. If any DTCs are present, refer to the DIAGNOSTIC CODE
INDEX for the diagnostic test procedure and troubleshoot the new or recurring symptom.
9. If there are no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) present, and the customer's concern can no longer be
duplicated, the repair is complete.
Are any DTCs present or is the original concern still present?
Yes
Repair is not complete, refer to appropriate symptom.
No
Repair is complete.
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2007 BRAKES ABS Service Information - Nitro
2007 BRAKES
ABS Service Information - Nitro
ABS SERVICE INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
ELECTRONIC ROLL MITIGATION (ERM)
This system anticipates the potential for wheel lift by monitoring the driver's steering wheel input and the speed
of the vehicle. When ERM determines that the rate of change of the steering wheel angle and vehicles speed are
sufficient to potentially cause wheel lift, it applies the appropriate brake and may reduce engine power to lessen
the chance that wheel lift will occur. ERM will only intervene during very severe or evasive driving maneuvers.
ERM can only reduce the chance of wheel lift occurring during severe or evasive driving maneuvers. It can not
prevent wheel lift due to other factors such as road conditions, leaving the roadway or striking objects or other
vehicles.
ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM WITH TRACTION CONTROL
This vehicle uses the Continental MK25e electronic brake control system. The system includes ABS (Anti-lock
Brake System), EVBP (Electronic Variable Brake Proportioning), TCS (Traction Control System), BAS (Brake
Assist System), ERM (Electronic Roll Mitigation), TSC (Trailer Sway Control) and ESP (Electronic Stability
Program). All seven systems work together to enhance vehicle stability and control in various driving
conditions and are commonly referred to as ESP. ESP is standard
The electronic brake control system uses the following components to operate:
Integrated Control Unit (ICU) - The ICU is a combination of the Anti-Lock Brake Module (ABM) and
the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
Wheel Speed Sensors (WSS) - Four sensors (one at each wheel)
Dynamics Sensor - The Dynamics Sensor includes a yaw rate sensor, (The Dynamics Sensor is located
under the center console near the center of the vehicle).
Lateral accelerometer and, on vehicles equipped with a part time transfer case (143 T-Case), a
longitudinal accelerometer.
Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) - The SAS is part of the clock spring assembly in the steering column.
Brake Pressure Sensor - The brake pressure sensor is located in the HCU and is not serviceable separate
from the HCU.
ALL-SPEED TRACTION CONTROL
The TCS is an all-speed traction control system that functions up to the maximum allowed vehicle speed. TCS
enhances vehicle stability and mobility by reducing wheel spin when accelerating on slippery surfaces. TCS
controls wheel spin by applying the brakes and/or reducing engine power.
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ABS
The purpose of the antilock brake system (ABS) is to prevent wheel lockup under braking conditions on
virtually any type of road surface. Antilock braking is desirable because a vehicle that is stopped without
locking the wheels retains directional stability and some steering capability. This allows the driver to retain
greater control of the vehicle during braking.
ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAM (ESP)
The ESP system enhances directional control and stability of the vehicle under various driving conditions. ESP
corrects for over/under steering of the vehicle by applying the brake of the appropriate wheel to assist in
counteracting the over/under steer condition. Engine power may also be reduced to help the vehicle maintain
the desired path. ESP uses sensors in the vehicle to determine the vehicle path intended by the driver and
compares it to the actual path of the vehicle. When the actual path does not match the intended path, ESP
applies the brake of the appropriate wheel to assist in counteracting the oversteer or understeer condition
Oversteer - when the vehicle is turning more than appropriate for the steering wheel position.
Understeer - when the vehicle is turning less than appropriate for the steering wheel position.
The "ESP/TCS Indicator Light" located in the instrument cluster, starts to flash as soon as the tires lose traction
and the ESP system becomes active. The "ESP/TCS Indicator Light" also flashes when TCS is active.
BRAKE ASSIST SYSTEM (BAS)
The BAS is designed to optimize the vehicle's braking capability during emergency braking maneuvers. The
system detects an emergency braking situation by sensing the rate and amount of brake application and then
applies optimum pressure to the brakes. This can help reduce braking distances. The BAS complements the
antilock brake system (ABS). Applying the brakes very quickly results in the best BAS assistance.
ELECTRONIC VARIABLE BRAKE PROPORTIONING
Vehicles equipped with ABS use EVBP to balance front-to-rear braking. The EVBP is used in place of a rear
brake proportioning valve. The EVBP system controls the slip of the rear wheels during braking at low to
moderate deceleration, up until the point where ABS control is necessary. The brake pressure at the rear wheels
is controlled by using the inlet and outlet valves located in the hydraulic control unit (HCU).
EVBP activation should not be perceptible by the customer because there is no pump motor noise and almost no
brake pedal feedback.
OPERATION
ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS)
There are a few performance characteristics of the MK25e anti-lock brake system that may, at first, seem
abnormal but in fact are normal. These characteristics are described below.
NORMAL BRAKING
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Under normal braking conditions, the ABS functions the same as a standard base brake system with a front/rear
split master cylinder and conventional vacuum assist.
ABS BRAKING
ABS operation is available at all vehicle speeds above 5-8 km/h (3-5 mph). If a wheel locking tendency is
detected during brake application, the brake system enters ABS mode. During ABS braking, hydraulic pressure
in the four wheel circuit is modulated to prevent any wheel from locking. Each wheel circuit is designed with a
set of electronic solenoids to allow brake pressure to be modulated at each wheel individually. For vehicle
stability reasons, both rear wheel solenoids receive the same electrical signal input during ABS. Wheel lock-up
may be perceived at the very end of an ABS stop and is considered normal.
During an ABS event, the Integrated Control Unit (ICU) regulates hydraulic brake pressure at all four of the
vehicle's wheels.
The hydraulic pressure at each front wheel is controlled independently (relative to the amount of slip at each
wheel) in order to maximize the braking force generated by the front brakes. The rear wheels are controlled
such that the hydraulic pressure at each wheel is the same and does not exceed the pressure appropriate for the
wheel with the highest slip in order to maintain vehicle stability.
ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAM (ESP)
To determine whether the car is responding properly to cornering commands, ESP uses steering wheel angle,
yaw (turning) rate and lateral acceleration sensors (combined into Dynamics Sensor). Using signals from these
sensors, in addition to individual wheel speed sensor signals, the system determines appropriate brake and
throttle actions. Once initiated, ESP operates much like All-Speed Traction Control, except that the goal is
directional stability. If the vehicle yaw response, or rate of turning, is inconsistent with the steering angle and
vehicle speed indications, the ESP system applies the brakes and, if necessary closes the throttle, to restore
control. This occurs whether the vehicle is turning too rapidly (oversteering) or not rapidly enough
(understeering).
ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM WITH TRACTION CONTROL
ABS
There are a few performance characteristics of the MK25E Antilock Brake System that may at first seem
abnormal, but in fact are normal. These characteristics are described below.
NORMAL BRAKING
Under normal braking conditions, the ABS functions the same as a standard base brake system with a
diagonally split master cylinder and conventional vacuum assist.
ABS BRAKING
ABS operation is available at all vehicle speeds above 5-8 km/h (3-5 mph). If a wheel locking tendency is
detected during a brake application, the brake system enters the ABS mode. During ABS braking, hydraulic
pressure in the four wheel circuits is modulated to prevent any wheel from locking. Each wheel circuit is
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designed with a set of electric solenoids to allow modulation, although for vehicle stability, both rear wheel
solenoids receive the same electrical signal. Wheel lockup may be perceived at the very end of an ABS stop and
is considered normal.
During an ABS event, the Integrated Control Unit (ICU) regulates hydraulic pressure at all 4 of the vehicle's
wheels.
The hydraulic pressure at each front wheel is controlled independently (relative to the amount of slip at each
wheel) in order to maximize the braking force generated by the front brakes. The rear wheels are controlled
such that the hydraulic pressure at either rear wheel does not exceed that of the highest slip rear wheel in order
to maintain vehicle stability.
The system can build and release pressure at each wheel, depending on signals generated by the Wheel Speed
Sensors (WSS) at each wheel and received at the Antilock Brake Module (ABM).
NOISE AND BRAKE PEDAL FEEL
During ABS braking, some brake pedal movement may be felt. In addition, ABS braking will create ticking,
popping, or groaning noises heard by the driver. This is normal and is due to pressurized fluid being transferred
between the master cylinder and the brakes. If ABS operation occurs during hard braking, some pulsation may
be felt in the vehicle body due to fore and aft movement of the suspension as brake pressures are modulated.
At the end of an ABS stop, ABS is turned off when the vehicle is slowed to a speed of 5-6 km/h (3-4 mph).
There may be a slight brake pedal drop anytime that the ABS is deactivated, such as at the end of the stop when
the vehicle speed is less than 5 km/h (3 mph) or during an ABS stop where ABS is no longer required. These
conditions exist when a vehicle is being stopped on a road surface with patches of ice, loose gravel, or sand on
it. Also, stopping a vehicle on a bumpy road surface activates ABS because of the wheel hop caused by the
bumps.
TIRE NOISE AND MARKS
Although the ABS system prevents complete wheel lockup, some wheel slip is desired in order to achieve
optimum braking performance. Wheel slip is defined as follows: 0 percent slip means the wheel is rolling freely
and 100 percent slip means the wheel is fully locked. During brake pressure modulation, wheel slip is allowed
to reach up to 25-30 percent. This means that the wheel rolling velocity is 25-30 percent less than that of a free
rolling wheel at a given vehicle speed. This slip may result in some tire chirping, depending on the road surface.
This sound should not be interpreted as total wheel lockup.
Complete wheel lockup normally leaves black tire marks on dry pavement. The ABS will not leave dark black
tire marks since the wheel never reaches a fully locked condition. However, tire marks may be noticeable as
light patched marks.
START-UP AND DRIVE-OFF CYCLES
When the ignition is turned on, a popping sound and a slight brake pedal movement may be noticed. The ABS
warning lamp will also be on for up to 5 seconds after the ignition is turned on.
When the vehicle is first driven off, a humming may be heard or felt by the driver at approximately 12-25 mph
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(20-40 km/h). All of these conditions are a normal function of ABS as the system is performing a diagnosis
check.
PREMATURE ABS CYCLING
Symptoms of premature ABS cycling include: clicking sounds from the solenoid valves; pump/motor running;
and pulsations in the brake pedal. Premature ABS cycling can occur at any braking rate of the vehicle and on
any type of road surface. Neither the red BRAKE indicator lamp, nor the amber ABS indicator lamp, illuminate
and no fault codes are stored in the ABM.
Premature ABS cycling is a condition that needs to be correctly assessed when diagnosing problems with the
antilock brake system. It may be necessary to use a scan tool to detect and verify premature ABS cycling.
Check the following common causes when diagnosing premature ABS cycling: damaged wheel bearings
(causing tone wheel issues); damaged wheel bearing housings where wheel speed sensors mount; and loose
wheel speed sensor mounting bolts.
After diagnosing the defective component, repair or replace it as required. When the component repair or
replacement is completed, test drive the vehicle to verify that premature ABS cycling has been corrected.
ALL-SPEED TRACTION CONTROL
Traction control systems sense impending wheel spin based on a model of the rate of change of wheel speed
under normal traction conditions. The All-Speed Traction Control uses signals from the same wheel speed
sensors as ABS to determine when to apply the brakes to one or more wheels and when to reduce engine torque
output using the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) to prevent wheel slip during acceleration. Throttle control
makes the vehicle less reliant on brake application alone to maintain traction, increasing the operating speed
range and more closely modulates speed, resulting in smoother operation. With All-Speed Traction Control
reducing engine torque as well as applying the brakes, it is possible to achieve almost seamless torque
application at the wheels.
If the wheel slip is severe enough to require throttle intervention, All-Speed Traction Control will reduce engine
torque and sometimes upshift the transmission to avoid the condition. In milliseconds, All-Speed Traction
Control interrogates the engine control system to determine the current torque output, determines how much the
torque output the current conditions will allow, and signals this requirement to the engine control system, which
reduces the torque by partially closing the throttle. With execution of the torque reduction, the brake system
reduces brake pressure to make the transition smooth, while maintaining forward progress. By reducing engine
power, braking effectiveness is maintained and the system can operate throughout the normal vehicle speed
range. That is why the system is identified as providing "all-speed" traction control.
With AWD, where front-wheel slip can occur, the degree of throttle intervention is relatively less than with
rear-wheel drive. The difference in speed capability and the degree of throttle intervention between rear-wheel
drive and all-wheel drive is due to the fact that non-driven front wheels on a rear-wheel drive vehicle give the
system an accurate vehicle speed reference on which to base responses. With AWD, the possibility that the
front wheels may also be slipping makes appropriate corrective action more difficult to determine, thus limiting
the effective speed range. Offsetting this is the fact that loss of traction is less likely with AWD because torque
is transmitted through all four wheels to begin with. In actual driving situations on snow or ice, the rear-wheel
drive and AWD systems respond in essentially the same way up to the 45 mph (72 km/h) limit of the AWD
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system.
When severe wheel slippage is detected (as on snow-covered roads), the Winter Mode feature of All-Speed
Traction Control causes the transmission to up-shift to higher gears at lower speeds than normal. Once a
slippery launch condition is detected, the transmission will remain in Winter Mode for a minimum of three
minutes. After that, if the road is providing normal traction, the system returns to providing normal up-shifts.
ELECTRONIC VARIABLE BRAKE PROPORTIONING
Upon entry into EVBP the inlet valve for the rear brake circuit is switched ON so that the fluid supply from the
master cylinder is shut off. In order to decrease the rear brake pressure, the outlet valve for the rear brake circuit
is pulsed. This allows fluid to enter the Low Pressure Accumulator (LPA) in the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
resulting in a drop in fluid pressure to the rear brakes. In order to increase the rear brake pressure, the outlet
valve is switched off and the inlet valve is pulsed. This increases the pressure to the rear brakes. This back-and-
forth process will continue until the required slip difference is obtained. At the end of EVBP braking (brakes
released) the fluid in the LPA drains back to the master cylinder by switching on the outlet valve and draining
through the inlet valve check valve. At the same time the inlet valve is switched on in case of another brake
application.
The EVBP will remain functional during many ABS fault modes. If both the red BRAKE and amber ABS
warning indicators are illuminated, the EVBP may not be functioning.
ANTILOCK BRAKING SYSTEM
The ABS brake system performs several self-tests every time the ignition switch is turned on and the vehicle is
driven. The ABM monitors the systems input and output circuits to verify the system is operating correctly. If
the on board diagnostic system senses that a circuit is malfunctioning the system will set a trouble code in its
memory.
NOTE: An audible noise may be heard during the self-test. This noise should be
considered normal.
NOTE: The scan tool is used to diagnose the ABS system. For additional information
refer to the Electrical, Electronic Control Modules section.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
ABS BRAKE BLEEDING
ABS system bleeding requires conventional bleeding methods plus use of a scan tool. The procedure involves
performing a base brake bleeding, followed by use of the scan tool to cycle and bleed the HCU pump and
solenoids. A second base brake bleeding procedure is then required to remove any air remaining in the system.
1. Perform base brake bleeding, see PRESSURE BLEEDING - BASE BRAKES .
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2. Connect scan tool to the Data Link Connector.

3. Select ANTILOCK BRAKES, followed by MISCELLANEOUS, then ABS BRAKES. Follow the
instructions displayed. When scan tool displays TEST COMPLETE, disconnect scan tool and proceed.
4. Perform base brake bleeding a second time, see PRESSURE BLEEDING - BASE BRAKES .
5. Top off master cylinder fluid level and verify proper brake operation before moving vehicle.
SPECIFICATIONS
ABS BRAKES
(HCU) Hydraulic Control 14 - 125
Unit Mounting Nuts
(HCU) Hydraulic Control 20 - 180
Unit Brake Lines
(ABM) Antilock Brake 2 - 16
Module Mounting Screws
Wheel Speed Sensors 8 - 71
Front Mounting Bolt
Wheel Speed Sensor Rear 9 - 80
Mounting Bolt
Dynamics Sensor Nuts 9 - 80
ESP Module Bolt 10 - 85
ESP Module Nut 10 - 85
ELECTRICAL
DESCRIPTION
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
A wheel speed sensor is used at each wheel. The front sensors are mounted to the steering knuckles. Front tone
wheels are internal to the front bearing. The rear sensors are mounted at the outboard end of the axle. Tone
wheels are mounted to the outboard ends of the front and rear axle shafts. The gear type tone wheel serves as
the trigger mechanism for each sensor.
OPERATION
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
The sensors convert wheel speed into a small digital signal. The ABM sends 12 volts to the sensors. The sensor
has an internal magneto resistance bridge that alters the voltage and amperage of the signal circuit. This voltage
and amperage is changed by magnetic induction when the toothed tone wheel passes the wheel speed sensor.
This digital signal is sent to the ABM. The ABM measures the voltage and amperage of the digital signal for
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each wheel.
SENSOR-WHEEL SPEED-FRONT
REMOVAL

2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
3. Remove the caliper adapter. Refer to REMOVAL .
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to hang from the brake hose.
Damage to the brake hose will result. Provide a suitable support to
hang the caliper securely.
4. Remove the disc brake rotor. Refer to REMOVAL .
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Fig. 1: Identifying Wheel Speed Sensor Wire, Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting Bolt & Hub
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt (2) to the hub (3).
6. Remove the wheel speed sensor wire (1) from the hub/bearing and through the brake shield.
7. Remove the wheel speed sensor wire hold down clips.
8. Remove the locking connector at the wheel liner from the sensor connector.
9. Remove the wheel speed sensor from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 2: Identifying Wheel Speed Sensor Wire, Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting Bolt & Hub
NOTE: When installing, do not rotate sensor, as this may cause the sensor to rub on
the tone ring and be damaged.
1. Install the wheel speed sensor to the vehicle.

2. Install the wheel speed sensor (1) through the brake shield and to the hub/bearing (3).
3. Install the wheel speed sensor wire hold down routing clips.
4. Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt (2) to the hub (3). Tighten the mounting bolt to 8 N.m (71
in. lbs.).
5. Install the disc brake rotor. Refer to INSTALLATION .
6. Install the disc brake caliper adapter. Refer to INSTALLATION .
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7. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
SENSOR- WHEEL SPEED-REAR
REMOVAL
SENSOR-WHEEL SPEED-REAR
Fig. 3: Identifying Wheel Speed Sensor & Mounting Bolt


2. Disengage the locking tab connector (1).
3. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (1).
4. Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt (2) from the rear support plate.
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor from the support plate.
INSTALLATION
SENSOR-WHEEL SPEED-REAR
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Fig. 4: Identifying Wheel Speed Sensor & Mounting Bolt

1. Insert the wheel speed sensor through the support plate.

2. Tighten the wheel speed sensor bolt (2) to 9 N.m (80 in. lbs.).
3. Secure the wheel speed sensor wire to the routing clips. Verify that the sensor wire is secure and clear of
the rotating components.
4. Reconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (1).
NOTE: Make sure the connector locking tab is fully engaged and locked in
position.
SENSOR-DYNAMICS
DESCRIPTION
SENSOR - DYNAMICS
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Fig. 5: Identifying Nuts, Dynamics Sensor & Electrical Connector

The Yaw Rate and Lateral Acceleration Sensors are housed into one unit known as the Dynamics Sensor (2).
The sensor is used to measure side-to-side (Lateral) motion and vehicle rotational sensing (how fast the vehicle
is turning - Yaw).
Yaw and Lateral Acceleration Sensors cannot be serviced separately. The entire Dynamics Sensor (2) must be
replaced when necessary.
REMOVAL
SENSOR-DYNAMICS

1. Remove the center console. Refer to REMOVAL .
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2. Disconnect electrical connector (3) from the dynamics sensor (2).

3. Remove the two nuts (1) securing the sensor to the floor.
4. Remove the sensor (2).
INSTALLATION
SENSOR-DYNAMICS

1. Install the dynamics sensor (2) to the vehicle.

2. Install the electrical connector (3) making sure that the connector is fully seated into the sensor (2)
3. Install the two retaining nuts (1) and tighten to 9 N.m (80 in. lbs.).
4. Install the floor console. Refer to INSTALLATION .
SENSOR-STEERING ANGLE
DESCRIPTION
NOTE: Steering angle sensor is part of the airbag clockspring and is not serviced
separately from the clockspring.
Under transient cornering conditions the lateral acceleration sensor does not measure the true sway force on the
car. In order to compensate for this the system uses the driver's steering command (Steering angle sensor) and
vehicle speed to estimate the true sway force. This signal is matched with the lateral acceleration sensor signal
to ensure a significantly-reduced transient sway of the vehicle body.
REMOVAL
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1. For removal of the steering angle sensor. Refer to REMOVAL .
INSTALLATION
1. For installation of the steering angle sensor. Refer to INSTALLATION .
ESP SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
SWITCH - ESP
Fig. 8: Identifying Instrument Panel Switches

The ESP switch (5) is located in the center stack (1) of the instrument panel. If the switch is damaged or
inoperative the complete accessory switch bank assembly must be replaced.
REMOVAL
SWITCH - ESP
WARNING: On vehicles equipped with airbags, disable the airbag system before
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attempting any steering wheel, steering column, or instrument panel

component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the negative
battery (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the airbag system
capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service.
This is the only sure way to disable the airbag system. Failure to take the
proper precautions could result in accidental airbag deployment and
possible personal injury or death.
NOTE: The ESP switch is integral to the accessory switch bank and cannot be serviced
separately. The complete accessory switch bank assembly must be replaced.
Fig. 9: Identifying Center Bezel, Screws & Accessory Switch Bank

1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.

2. Remove the center bezel from the instrument panel, refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the four screws (2) that secure the accessory switch bank (3) to the back of the center bezel (1)
and remove the switch bank.
INSTALLATION
SWITCH - ESP
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Fig. 10: Identifying Center Bezel, Screws & Accessory Switch Bank
NOTE: There are different accessory switch banks available based on the option
content of the vehicle. Ensure the switch pod being installed matches the
vehicle options.
1. Position the accessory switch bank (3) onto the back of the instrument panel center bezel (1).
2. Install the four screws (2) that secure the accessory switch bank to the center bezel. Tighten the screws to
2 N.m (17 in. lbs.).
3. Install the center bezel onto the instrument panel, refer to INSTALLATION .
5. Verify ESP system operation.
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT)
DESCRIPTION
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT
The HCU consists of a valve body, pump motor, and wire harness.
OPERATION
Accumulators in the valve body store extra fluid released to the system for ABS mode operation. The pump
provides the fluid volume needed and is operated by a DC type motor. The motor is controlled by the ABM.
The valves modulate brake pressure during antilock braking and are controlled by the ABM.
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The HCU provides four channel pressure control to the front and rear brakes. Two channels control the rear
wheel brakes individually. The two remaining channels control the front wheel brakes individually.
During antilock braking, the solenoid valves are opened and closed as needed. The valves are not static. They
are cycled rapidly and continuously to modulate pressure and control wheel slip and deceleration.
During normal braking, the HCU solenoid valves and pump are not activated. The master cylinder and power
booster operate the same as a vehicle without an ABS brake system.
During antilock braking, solenoid valve pressure modulation occurs in three stages, pressure increase, pressure
hold, and pressure decrease. The valves are all contained in the valve body portion of the HCU.
PRESSURE DECREASE
The outlet valve is opened and the inlet valve is closed during the pressure decrease cycle.
A pressure decrease cycle is initiated when speed sensor signals indicate high wheel slip at one or more wheels.
At this point, the ABM closes the inlet then opens the outlet valve, which also opens the return circuit to the
accumulators. Fluid pressure is allowed to bleed off (decrease) as needed to prevent wheel lock.
Once the period of high wheel slip has ended, the ABM closes the outlet valve and begins a pressure increase or
hold cycle as needed.
PRESSURE HOLD
Both solenoid valves are closed in the pressure hold cycle. Fluid apply pressure in the control channel is
maintained at a constant rate. The ABM maintains the hold cycle until sensor inputs indicate a pressure change
is necessary.
PRESSURE INCREASE
The inlet valve is open and the outlet valve is closed during the pressure increase cycle. The pressure increase
cycle is used to counteract unequal wheel speeds. This cycle controls re-application of fluid apply pressure due
to changing road surfaces or wheel speed.
REMOVAL
1. Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep pressure on the brake system.
2. Remove negative battery cable from the battery.
3. Pull up on the ABM harness connector release and remove connector.
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Fig. 11: Identifying Brake Lines & ABM

4. Remove brake lines (1) from the ABM (2).
Fig. 12: Identifying Bracket & ABM Unit

5. Remove the ABM unit (2) by pulling the unit from the bracket (1).
DISASSEMBLY
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Fig. 13: ABM & Mounting Screws

1 - MOUNTING SCREWS
2 - ABM
1. Remove the four screws (1) attaching the ABM module to the HCU (2). See Fig. 13.
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Fig. 14: Identifying ABM, HCU & Solenoid Valve Stem

1 - ABM
2 - HCU
3 - SOLENOID VALVE STEM
2. Separate the ABM module (1) from the HCU (2). See Fig. 14.
ASSEMBLY
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Fig. 15: Solenoid Valve & Seal

1 - SEAL
1. Clean any debris off the mating surfaces of the HCU and ABM module.
CAUTION: When installing new O-rings or solenoid valve stem seals, do not use
any type of lubricant.
2. If the seals on the components are not new, they must be replaced. Each of the solenoid valve stem seals
(1) must be replaced. See Fig. 15 do not reuse solenoid valve stem seals .
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Fig. 16: O-Ring & O-Ring Mounting Groove

1 - O-RING
2 - O-RING MOUNTING GROOVE
3. The pump/motor connector O-ring (1) should also be replaced if not new. See Fig. 16
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Fig. 17: Identifying ABM, HCU & Solenoid Valve Stem

1 - ABM
2 - HCU
4. Align components and install the ABM module on the HCU. See Fig. 17.
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Fig. 18: ABM & Mounting Screws

1 - MOUNTING SCREWS
2 - ABM
5. Install the four screws attaching the ABM module to the HCU. See Fig. 18. Tighten the mounting screws
to 2 N.m (17 in. lbs.) torque.
6. If the mounting bracket needs to be installed, install the mounting pins in the HCU as necessary and
tighten to 14 N.m (125 in. lbs.) torque. Insert the mounting pins into the grommets mounted in the
bracket, then install the single mounting bolt. Tighten the mounting bolt to 14 N.m (125 in. lbs.) torque.
7. Install the HCU in the vehicle. See INSTALLATION.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 19: Identifying Bracket & ABM Unit

NOTE: If the ABM module is being replaced with a new ABM module it must be
reprogrammed with the use of a scan tool.
1. Install ABM (2) on the mounting bracket rubber pockets (1).
Fig. 20: Identifying Brake Lines & ABM

2. Install brake lines to the ABM (2) and tighten to 20 N.m (180 in. lbs.).
3. Install wiring harness connector to the ABM and push down on the release to secure the connector.
4. Install negative battery cable to the battery.
5. Bleed ABS brake system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
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2007 RESTRAINTS Service Information - Nitro
2007 RESTRAINTS
Service Information - Nitro
RESTRAINTS - SERVICE INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
RESTRAINT SYSTEM
An occupant restraint system is standard factory-installed safety equipment on this vehicle. Available occupant
restraints for this vehicle include both active and passive types. Active restraints are those which require the
vehicle occupants to take some action to employ, such as fastening a seat belt; while passive restraints require
no action by the vehicle occupants to be employed.
ACTIVE RESTRAINTS
The active restraints for this vehicle include:
 Child Restraint Anchors - All vehicles are equipped with three, fixed-position, child seat upper tether
anchors for the second row seat. Two anchors are integral to the back of the left rear seat back panel, and
one is integral to the right rear seat back panel. Two lower anchors are also provided for each outboard
second row seating position. Except for the left inboard anchor, these lower anchors are integral to the
seat brackets on the rear floor panel. The left inboard anchor is integral to the left seat cushion frame. The
lower anchors are all accessed from the front of the second row seats, where the seat back meets the seat
cushion.
 Front Seat Belts - Both front seating positions are equipped with three-point seat belt systems employing
lower B-pillar mounted inertia latch-type emergency locking retractors, height-adjustable upper B-pillar
mounted turning loops, a traveling lower seat belt anchor secured to the outboard side of the seat frame,
and a traveling end-release seat belt buckle secured to the inboard side of the seat frame. The front seat
belt buckles include an integral Hall-effect seat belt switch that detects whether the front seat belts have
been fastened.
 Second Row Seat Belts - All second row seating positions are equipped with three-point seat belt
systems. The outboard seating position belts employ lower C-pillar mounted inertia latch-type emergency
locking retractors, fixed position upper C-pillar mounted turning loops and fixed lower seat belt anchors
secured to the floor panel. The second row center seating position belt has an inertia latch-type emergency
locking retractor that is integral to the left rear seat back panel. The second row center seating position
belt lower anchor is secured to the floor panel. All three rear seat belts have fixed end-release seat belt
buckles secured to the floor panel, a double buckle unit on the right side and a single buckle unit on the
left side.
PASSIVE RESTRAINTS
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Fig. 1: SRS Emblem

The passive restraints available for this vehicle include the following:
Fig. 2: Identifying Occupant Classification System Switches & Indicators

 Dual Front Airbags - Multistage driver and front passenger airbags are used in this vehicle. This airbag
system consists of passive, inflatable, Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) components and vehicles
with this equipment can be readily identified by the SRS - AIRBAG logo molded into the driver airbag
trim cover in the center of the steering wheel and also into the passenger airbag door on the instrument
panel above the glove box. Vehicles with the airbag system can also be identified by the airbag indicator,
which will illuminate in the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab
Compartment Node/CCN) for about seven seconds as a bulb test each time the ignition switch is turned to
the ON position. Dual pyrotechnic-type seat belt tensioners are also integral to the driver and passenger
front seat belt retractor units and buckle units of all airbag equipped vehicles to work in conjunction with
the dual front and side curtain airbags.
 Occupant Classification System - Vehicles manufactured for sale in North America (except Mexico)
also include an Occupant Classification System (OCS) with components that are located on the passenger
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side front seat. These components include an Occupant Classification Module (OCM) and four seat
weight sensors on the passenger side front seat. Vehicles equipped with the OCS components can be
readily identified by a passenger airbag on/off indicator (4) located to the right of the hazard switch (3) in
the instrument panel switch pod (1) near the base of the instrument panel center bezel.
 Side Curtain Airbags - Side curtain airbags are standard equipment for this vehicle when it is also
equipped with dual front airbags. This airbag system consists of passive, inflatable SRS components and
vehicles with this equipment can be readily identified by a molded identification trim plug with the SRS -
AIRBAG logo located near the tops of the B and C-pillar trim.
Fig. 3: SRS Components

The SRS includes the following major components, which are described in further detail elsewhere in this
service information:
Airbag Indicator - The airbag indicator is integral to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC)
(also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN), which is located on the instrument panel in front of
the driver.
Clockspring - The clockspring is located near the top of the steering column, directly beneath the
steering wheel.
Driver Airbag (4) - The driver airbag is located in the center of the steering wheel, beneath the driver
airbag trim cover.
Driver Knee Blocker - The driver knee blocker is a structural unit secured to the back side of and
integral to the instrument panel steering column opening cover.
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Front Impact Sensor (1) - Two front impact sensors are used on vehicles equipped with dual front
airbags, one left side and one right side. One sensor is located on the back side of the front end module
carrier on either side of the radiator and inboard of the headlamp within the engine compartment.
Occupant Classification Module (6) - Vehicles equipped with the Occupant Classification System
(OCS) include an Occupant Classification Module (OCM) which is secured to a bracket on the inboard
side of the inboard passenger side seat track riser beneath the seat cushion.
Occupant Restraint Controller (8) - The Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) is located on a mount on
the floor panel transmission tunnel rearward of the transmission gear selector, and is concealed beneath
the center floor console.
Passenger Airbag (2) - The passenger airbag is located in the instrument panel, beneath the passenger
airbag door on the instrument panel above the glove box on the passenger side of the vehicle.
Passenger Airbag On/Off Indicator (3) - Vehicles with the Occupant Classification System (OCS)
include a passenger airbag on/off indicator which is located in the instrument panel switch pod near the
base of the instrument panel lower center bezel.
Passenger Knee Blocker - The passenger knee blocker is a structural reinforcement that is integral to and
concealed within the glove box door.
Seat Belt Tensioner (9 and 10) - Dual seat belt tensioners are integral to both front seat belt buckle units
(9) and retractor units (10) on vehicles equipped with dual front airbags. The seat belt buckle tensioner
units are located on the inboard rear corner of each front seat cushion. The seat belt retractor tensioner
units are secured to the right and left inner B-pillars and concealed beneath the lower B-pillar trim.
Seat Weight Sensor (5) - Vehicles equipped with the Occupant Classification System (OCS) include four
seat weight sensors, one on each corner of the passenger side front seat between the lower seat adjuster
tracks and the seat track risers.
Side Curtain Airbag (12) - A side curtain airbag is secured to each inside roof side rail above the
headliner, and extends from the A-pillar to just beyond the C-pillar.
Side Impact Sensor (11) - Four side impact sensors are used on vehicles equipped with side curtain
airbags, two left side and two right side. One sensor is located behind the trim above the front seat belt
retractor on each inner B-pillar and one is located above the second row outboard retractor on each inner
C-pillar.
The ORC, the OCM, and the EMIC each contain a microprocessor and programming that allow them to
communicate with each other using the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus. This method of
communication is used by the ORC for control of the airbag indicator in the EMIC. Refer to DESCRIPTION .
Hard wired circuitry connects the SRS components to each other through the electrical system of the vehicle.
These hard wired circuits are integral to several wire harnesses, which are routed throughout the vehicle and
retained by many different methods. These circuits may be connected to each other, to the vehicle electrical
system, and to the SRS components through the use of a combination of soldered splices, splice block
connectors, and many different types of wire harness terminal connectors and insulators. Refer to the
appropriate wiring information. The wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector
repair procedures, further details on wire harness routing and retention, as well as pin-out and location views for
the various wire harness connectors, splices and grounds.
OPERATION
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RESTRAINT SYSTEM
ACTIVE RESTRAINTS
The primary passenger restraints in this or any other vehicle are the standard equipment factory-installed seat
belts and child restraint anchors. Seat belts and child restraint anchors are referred to as an active restraint
because the vehicle occupants are required to physically fasten and properly adjust these restraints in order to
benefit from them.
PASSIVE RESTRAINTS
The passive restraints are referred to as a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) because they were designed and
are intended to enhance the protection for the occupants of the vehicle only when used in conjunction with the
seat belts. They are referred to as passive restraints because the vehicle occupants are not required to do
anything to make them operate; however, the vehicle occupants must be wearing their seat belts in order to
obtain the maximum safety benefit from the factory-installed SRS components.
The SRS electrical circuits are continuously monitored and controlled by a microprocessor and software
contained within the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC). An airbag indicator in the Electro Mechanical
Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) illuminates for about seven
seconds as a bulb test each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON or START positions. Following the bulb
test, the airbag indicator is turned ON or OFF by the ORC to indicate the status of the SRS. If the airbag
indicator comes ON at any time other than during the bulb test, it indicates that there is a problem in the SRS
electrical circuits. Such a problem may cause airbags not to deploy when required, or to deploy when not
required.
Deployment of the SRS components depends upon the angle and severity of an impact. Deployment is not
based upon vehicle speed; rather, deployment is based upon the rate of deceleration as measured by the forces
of gravity (G force) upon the acceleration-type impact sensors. When an impact is severe enough, the
microprocessor in the ORC signals the inflator of the appropriate airbag units to deploy their airbag cushions.
The front seat belt retractor tensioners and, if equipped, buckle tensioners are provided with a deployment
signal by the ORC in conjunction with the front or side curtain airbags. The side curtain airbags are provided
with a deployment signal individually by the ORC based upon a side impact sensor input for the same side of
the vehicle.
During a frontal vehicle impact, the knee blockers work in concert with properly fastened and adjusted seat
belts to restrain both the driver and the front seat passenger in the proper position for an airbag deployment. The
knee blockers also absorb and distribute the crash energy from the driver and the front seat passenger to the
structure of the instrument panel. The seat belt tensioners remove the slack from the front seat belts to provide
further assurance that the driver and front seat passenger are properly positioned and restrained for an airbag
deployment.
Typically, the vehicle occupants recall more about the events preceding and following a collision than they do
of an airbag deployment itself. This is because the airbag deployment and deflation occur very rapidly. In a
typical 48 kilometer-per-hour (30 mile-per-hour) barrier impact, from the moment of impact until the airbags
are fully inflated takes about 40 milliseconds. Within one to two seconds from the moment of impact, the
airbags are almost entirely deflated. The times cited for these events are approximations, which apply only to a
barrier impact at the given speed. Actual times will vary somewhat, depending upon the vehicle speed, impact
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angle, severity of the impact, and the type of collision.
When the ORC monitors a problem in any of the SRS circuits or components, including the seat belt tensioners,
it stores a fault code or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in its memory circuit and sends an electronic message
to the EMIC to turn ON the airbag indicator. The hard wired circuits between components related to the SRS
may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring
information. The wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair procedures,
details of wire harness routing and retention, connector pin-out information and location views for the various
wire harness connectors, splices and grounds.
However, conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the SRS or the
electronic controls or communication between other modules and devices that provide features of the SRS. The
most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the SRS or the electronic controls and communication
related to SRS operation, as well as the retrieval or erasure of a DTC requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool.
Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
OCCUPANT CLASSIFICATION SYSTEM
In vehicles equipped with the Occupant Classification System (OCS), the OCS automatically suppresses or
enables passenger airbag and seat belt tensioner operation based upon whether or not the passenger side front
seat is occupied and, if the seat is occupied, classifies the size of the occupant and whether the seat is occupied
by a child seat. The passenger airbag and seat belt tensioners are disabled when the system senses the seat is
occupied by a child seat or a person below a minimum weight threshold.
The OCS has an Occupant Classification Module (OCM) that monitors inputs from the seat weight sensors
under the passenger side front seat cushion. Based upon those inputs the microprocessor within the OCM
classifies the occupant of the passenger side front seat. The OCM then sends electronic occupant classification
messages to the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC). The microprocessor and programming of the ORC
determines whether to enable or disable the deployment circuits for the passenger airbag and seat belt
tensioners; and, if enabled, what force level should be used to deploy each front airbag.
The OCS electrical circuits and components are continuously monitored by the OCM, and the OCM is
continuously monitored by the ORC. A passenger airbag on/off indicator is located in the instrument panel
switch pod near the base of the instrument panel center bezel. This indicator receives battery current whenever
the ignition switch is in the ON or START positions, and illuminates only when the ORC pulls the indicator
control circuit to ground. The indicator illuminates for about seven seconds as a bulb test each time the ignition
switch is turned to the ON or START positions. Following the bulb test, the indicator is turned ON or OFF by
the ORC based upon the electronic occupant classification messages received from the OCM. This indicator is
illuminated whenever the seat is occupied and passenger airbag and seat belt tensioner operation has been
suppressed. The indicator is turned OFF whenever the seat is empty or when the seat is occupied and the
passenger airbag and seat belt tensioners are enabled.
When the OCM monitors a problem in any of the OCS circuits or components, it stores a fault code or DTC in
its memory circuit and sends an electronic message to the ORC. The ORC then sends an electronic message to
the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) to turn
ON the airbag indicator. If for any reason the OCM is unable to classify the occupant it sends an electronic
message to the ORC, and the ORC suppresses passenger airbag and seat belt tensioner operation. The hard
wired circuits between components related to the OCS may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools
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and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring information includes wiring diagrams,
proper wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire harness routing and retention, connector pin-out
information and location views for the various wire harness connectors, splices and grounds.
However, conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the OCS or the
electronic controls or communication between other modules and devices that provide features of the OCS. The
most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the OCS or the electronic controls or communication
related to OCS operation, as well as the retrieval or erasure of a DTC requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool.
WARNING
RESTRAINT SYSTEM
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury during and following any seat belt or child
restraint anchor service, carefully inspect all seat belts, buckles,
mounting hardware, retractors, tether straps, and anchors for proper
installation, operation, or damage. Replace any belt that is cut, frayed, or
torn. Straighten any belt that is twisted. Tighten any loose fasteners.
Replace any belt that has a damaged or ineffective buckle or retractor.
Replace any belt that has a bent or damaged latch plate or anchor plate.
Replace any child restraint anchor or the unit to which the anchor is
integral that has been bent or damaged. Never attempt to repair a seat
belt or child restraint component. Always replace damaged or ineffective
seat belt and child restraint components with the correct, new and
unused replacement parts
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury on vehicles equipped with side curtain
airbags, disable the supplemental restraint system before attempting any
occupant restraint controller diagnosis or service. The occupant restraint
controller contains a rollover sensor, which enables the system to deploy
the side curtain airbags in the event of a vehicle rollover event. If an
occupant restraint controller is accidentally rolled during service while
still connected to battery power, the side curtain airbags will deploy.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable, then wait two
minutes for the system capacitor to discharge before performing further
diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the
supplemental restraint system. Failure to take the proper precautions
could result in accidental airbag deployment.
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury on vehicles equipped with airbags, disable
the supplemental restraint system before attempting any steering wheel,
steering column, airbag, occupant classification system, seat belt
tensioner, impact sensor, or instrument panel component diagnosis or
service. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable, then
wait two minutes for the system capacitor to discharge before performing
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further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury on vehicles equipped with airbags, before
performing any welding operations disconnect and isolate the battery
negative (ground) cable and disconnect all wire harness connectors from
the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC). Failure to take the proper
precautions could result in accidental airbag deployment and other
possible damage to the supplemental restraint system circuits and
components.
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, do not attempt to dismantle an airbag unit
or tamper with its inflator. Do not puncture, incinerate, or bring into
contact with electricity. Do not store at temperatures exceeding 93°C
(200°F). An airbag inflator unit may contain sodium azide and potassium
nitrate. These materials are poisonous and extremely flammable. Contact
with acid, water, or heavy metals may produce harmful and irritating
gases (sodium hydroxide is formed in the presence of moisture) or
combustible compounds. An airbag inflator unit may also contain a gas
canister pressurized to over 17.24 kPa (2500 psi).
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury when handling a seat belt tensioner
retractor, proper care should be exercised to keep fingers out from under
the retractor cover and away from the seat belt webbing where it exits
from the retractor cover.
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, replace all restraint system components
only with parts specified . Substitute parts may appear interchangeable,
but internal differences may result in inferior occupant protection.
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, the fasteners, screws, and bolts originally
used for the restraint system components must never be replaced with
any substitutes. These fasteners have special coatings and are
specifically designed for the restraint system. Any time a new fastener is
needed, replace it with the correct fasteners provided in the service
package .
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury when a steering column has an airbag unit
attached, never place the column on the floor or any other surface with
the steering wheel or airbag unit face down.
RESTRAINT SYSTEM
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The hard wired circuits between modules and components related to the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)
may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring
information. The wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair procedures,
details of wire harness routing and retention, connector pin-out information and location views for the various
wire harness connectors, splices and grounds.
However, conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the SRS or the
electronic controls or communication between other modules and devices that provide features of the SRS. The
most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the SRS or the electronic controls and communication
related to SRS operation, as well as the retrieval or erasure of a DTC requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool.
In addition to a diagnostic scan tool that contains the latest version of the proper diagnostic software, certain
diagnostic procedures for the SRS may require the use of the SRS Load Tool special tool along with the
appropriate Load Tool Jumpers and Adapters or the Occupant Classification System (OCS) Seat Weight special
tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) before attempting any steering
wheel, steering column, airbag, Occupant Classification System (OCS),
seat belt tensioner, impact sensor, or instrument panel component
diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground)
cable, then wait two minutes for the system capacitor to discharge before
performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to
disable the SRS. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in
accidental airbag deployment.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
VERIFICATION TEST - SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM
NOTE: The following procedure should be performed using a diagnostic scan tool to
verify proper Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) operation following the
service or replacement of any SRS component. In addition, if the vehicle is
equipped with the Occupant Classification System (OCS) and one of the
passenger front seat SRS components has been replaced, following successful
completion of the SRS Verification Test procedure, perform the OCS
Verification Test using a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate
diagnostic procedures.
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Fig. 4: Identifying Instrument Panel & 16-Way Data Link Connector (DLC)
1. During the following test, the battery negative cable remains disconnected and isolated, as it was during
the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) component removal and installation procedures.
2. Be certain that the diagnostic scan tool contains the latest version of the proper diagnostic software.
Connect the scan tool to the 16-way Data Link Connector (DLC) (2). The DLC is located on the driver
side lower edge of the instrument panel (1), inboard of the steering column.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and exit the vehicle with the scan tool.
4. Check to be certain that nobody is in the vehicle, then reconnect the battery negative cable.
5. Using the scan tool, read and record the active (current) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) data.
6. Next, use the scan tool to read and record any stored (historical) DTC data.
7. If any DTC is found in step 5 or 6, refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
8. Use the scan tool to erase the stored DTC data. If any problems remain, the stored DTC data will not
erase. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information to diagnose any stored DTC that will not erase. If
the stored DTC information is successfully erased, go to step 9.
9. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for about 15 seconds, and then back to the ON position.
Observe the airbag indicator in the instrument cluster. It should light for six to eight seconds, and then go
out. This indicates that the SRS is functioning normally and that the repairs are complete. If the airbag
indicator fails to light, or lights and stays ON, there is still an active SRS fault or malfunction. Refer to
the appropriate diagnostic information to diagnose the problem.
SERVICE AFTER A SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT DEPLOYMENT
Any vehicle which is to be returned to use following a supplemental restraint deployment, must have the
deployed restraints replaced. In addition, if the driver airbag has been deployed, the clockspring and the steering
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column must be replaced. If the passenger airbag is deployed, the passenger airbag door and both passenger
airbag squib connectors must be replaced. The seat belt tensioners are deployed by the same signal that deploys
either the driver and passenger front airbags or the side curtain airbags and must also be replaced if any airbag
has been deployed.
If a side curtain airbag has been deployed, the complete airbag unit, the headliner, as well as the upper A, B, C
and D-pillar trim must be replaced. These components are not intended for reuse and will be damaged or
weakened as a result of a supplemental restraint deployment, which may or may not be obvious during a visual
inspection. On vehicles with an optional sunroof, the sunroof drain tubes and hoses must be closely inspected
following a side curtain airbag deployment.
It is also critical that the mounting surfaces and mounting brackets for the Occupant Restraint Controller
(ORC), side impact sensors, and front impact sensors be closely inspected and restored to their original
conditions following any vehicle impact damage. Because the ORC and each front and side impact sensor are
used by the supplemental restraint system to monitor or confirm the direction and severity of a vehicle impact,
improper orientation or insecure fastening of these components may cause airbags not to deploy when required,
or to deploy when not required.
All other vehicle components should be closely inspected following any supplemental restraint deployment, but
are to be replaced only as required by the extent of the visible damage incurred.
AIRBAG SQUIB STATUS
Multistage airbags with multiple initiators (squibs) must be checked to determine that all squibs were used
during the deployment event. The driver and passenger airbags in this vehicle are deployed by electrical signals
generated by the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) through the driver or passenger squib 1 and squib 2
circuits to the two initiators in the airbag inflators. Typically, both initiators are used and all potentially
hazardous chemicals are burned during an airbag deployment event. However, it is possible for only one
initiator to be used due to an airbag system fault; therefore, it is always necessary to confirm that both initiators
have been used in order to avoid the improper handling or disposal of potentially live pyrotechnic or hazardous
materials. The following procedure should be performed using a diagnostic scan tool to verify the status of both
airbag squibs before either deployed airbag is removed from the vehicle for disposal.
CAUTION: Deployed front airbags having two initiators (squibs) in the airbag inflator
may or may not have live pyrotechnic material within the inflator. Do not
dispose of these airbags unless you are certain of complete deployment.
Refer to the Hazardous Substance Control System for proper disposal
procedures. Dispose of all non-deployed and deployed airbags and seat
belt tensioners in a manner consistent with state, provincial, local, and
federal regulations.
1. Be certain that the diagnostic scan tool contains the latest version of the proper diagnostic software.
Connect the scan tool to the 16-way Data Link Connector (DLC). The DLC is located on the driver side
lower edge of the instrument panel, inboard of the steering column.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
3. Using the scan tool, read and record the active (current) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) data.
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Using the active DTC information, refer to the Airbag Squib Status table to determine the status of both driver
and passenger airbag squibs.
AIRBAG SQUIB STATUS

IF THE ACTIVE DTC IS: CONDITIONS SQUIB STATUS
Driver or Passenger Squib 1 AND the stored DTC minutes for both Driver Both Squib 1 and 2 were
open or Passenger squibs are within 15 minutes of used.
Driver or Passenger Squib 2 each other
open
Driver or Passenger Squib 1 AND the stored DTC minutes for Driver or Squib 1 was used; Squib 2 is
open Passenger Squib 2 open is GREATER than the live.
Driver or Passenger Squib 2 stored DTC minutes for Driver or Passenger
open Squib 1 by 15 minutes or more
Driver or Passenger Squib 1 AND the stored DTC minutes for Driver or Squib 1 is live; Squib 2 was
open Passenger Squib 1 open is GREATER than the used.
Driver or Passenger Squib 2 stored DTC minutes for Driver or Passenger
open Squib 2 by 15 minutes or more
Driver or Passenger Squib 1 AND Driver or Passenger Squib 2 open is Squib 1 was used; Squib 2 is
open NOT an active code live.
Driver or Passenger Squib 2 AND Driver or Passenger Squib 1 open is Squib 1 is live; Squib 2 was
open NOT an active code used.
NOTE: If none of the Driver or Passenger Squib 1 or 2 open are active codes, the status
of the airbag squibs is unknown. In this case the airbag should be handled and
disposed of as if the squibs were both live.
CLEANUP PROCEDURE
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Fig. 5: Safety Glasses & Rubber Gloves - Typical

Following a supplemental restraint deployment, the vehicle interior will contain a powdery residue. This residue
consists primarily of harmless particulate by-products of the small pyrotechnic charge that initiates the
propellant used to deploy a supplemental restraint. However, this residue may also contain traces of sodium
hydroxide powder, a chemical by-product of the propellant material that is used to generate the inert gas that
inflates the airbag. Since sodium hydroxide powder can irritate the skin, eyes, nose, or throat, be certain to wear
safety glasses, rubber gloves, and a long-sleeved shirt during cleanup.
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, if you experience skin irritation during
cleanup, run cool water over the affected area. Also, if you experience
irritation of the nose or throat, exit the vehicle for fresh air until the
irritation ceases. If irritation continues, see a physician.
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Fig. 6: Vacuum Heater & A/C Outlets - Typical

1. Begin the cleanup by using a vacuum cleaner to remove any residual powder from the vehicle interior.
Clean from outside the vehicle and work your way inside, so that you avoid kneeling or sitting on a non-
cleaned area.
2. Be certain to vacuum the heater and air conditioning outlets as well. Run the heater and air conditioner
blower on the lowest speed setting and vacuum any powder expelled from the outlets.
CAUTION: Deployed front airbags having two initiators (squibs) in the airbag
inflator may or may not have live pyrotechnic material within the
inflator. Do not dispose of these airbags unless you are certain of
complete deployment. Refer to step AIRBAG SQUIB STATUS. All
damaged, ineffective, or non-deployed supplemental restraints which
are replaced on vehicles are to be handled and disposed of properly.
If an airbag or seat belt tensioner unit is ineffective or damaged and
non-deployed, refer to the Hazardous Substance Control System for
proper disposal. Be certain to dispose of all non-deployed and
deployed supplemental restraints in a manner consistent with state,
provincial, local and federal regulations.
3. Next, remove the deployed supplemental restraints from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service
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removal procedures.
4. You may need to vacuum the interior of the vehicle a second time to recover all of the powder.
HANDLING NON-DEPLOYED SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINTS
At no time should any source of electricity be permitted near the inflator on the back of a non-deployed airbag
or seat belt tensioner. When carrying a non-deployed airbag, the trim cover or airbag cushion side of the unit
should be pointed away from the body to minimize injury in the event of an accidental deployment. If the airbag
unit is placed on a bench or any other surface, the trim cover or airbag cushion side of the unit should be face up
to minimize movement in the event of an accidental deployment.
When handling a non-deployed seat belt retractor tensioner, take proper care to keep fingers out from under the
retractor cover and away from the seat belt webbing where it exits from the retractor cover. When handling a
non-deployed seat belt buckle tensioner, take proper care to keep fingers away from the scabbard between the
buckle and the tensioner unit. In addition, the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) should be disarmed
whenever any steering wheel, steering column, seat belt tensioner, airbag, impact sensor Occupant
Classification System (OCS), or instrument panel components require diagnosis or service. Failure to observe
this warning could result in accidental airbag deployment and possible personal injury.
All damaged, ineffective or non-deployed airbags and seat belt tensioners which are replaced on vehicles are to
be handled and disposed of properly. If an airbag or seat belt tensioner unit is ineffective or damaged and non-
deployed, refer to the Hazardous Substance Control System for information regarding the potentially hazardous
properties of the subject component and the proper safe handling procedures. Then dispose of all non-deployed
and deployed airbags and seat belt tensioners in a manner consistent with state, provincial, local and federal
regulations.
SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT STORAGE
Airbags and seat belt tensioners must be stored in their original, special container until they are used for service.
Also, they must be stored in a clean, dry environment; away from sources of extreme heat, sparks, and high
electrical energy. Always place or store any airbag on a surface with its trim cover or airbag cushion side facing
up, to minimize movement in case of an accidental deployment.
SPECIFICATIONS
RESTRAINT SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS
Clockspring Mounting
3 - 27
Screws
Curtain Airbag Mounting 8 - 71
Nuts
Front Impact Sensor
8 - 71
Mounting Nut
Side Impact Sensor 7 - 62

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Mounting Nut
Occupant Classification
2 - 20
Module Mounting Screws
Occupant Restraint
Controller Mounting 10.5 - 95
Screws
Occupant Restraint
10.5 - 95
Controller Mounting Nuts
Passenger Airbag Lower
Instrument Panel Bracket 20 15 -
Nuts
Passenger Airbag Lower
7 - 62
Mounting Nuts
Passenger Airbag Upper
Instrument Panel Bracket 2.9 - 25
To Structural Duct Screw
Passenger Airbag Upper
Instrument Panel Bracket 29.5 21 -
Mounting Screws
Front Seat Belt Buckle
Lower Anchor Mounting 43 32 -
Screw
Second Row Center and
Right Outboard Seat Belt 55 41 -
Buckle Mounting Screw
Second Row Seat
Cushion Leg Mounting 54 40 -
Screws
Second Row Center Seat
Belt Anchor and Left
62.5 46 -
Outboard Buckle
Mounting Nut
Front Seat Belt Retractor
Lower Bracket Mounting 44.5 33 -
Screw
Front Seat Belt Turning
44.5 33 -
Loop Mounting Screw
Front Seat Belt Lower
44.5 33 -
Anchor Mounting Screw
Second Row Center Seat
Belt Retractor Mounting 55 41 -
Screw
Second Row Outboard
Seat Belt Retractor 44.5 33 -
Lower Bracket Mounting
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Screw
Second Row Outboard
Seat Belt Turning Loop 44.5 33 -
Mounting Screw
Second Row Outboard
Seat Belt Lower Anchor 62.5 46 -
Mounting Nut
Seat Belt Turning Loop
44.5 33 -
Adjuster Mounting Screw
Seat Weight Sensor to
Seat Adjuster Track 28 21 -
Mounting Nuts
Seat Weight Sensor to
44.5 33 -
Seat Riser Mounting Nut
SPECIAL TOOLS
SPECIAL TOOLS
Fig. 7: OCS Seat Weight Tool No. 9077

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Fig. 8: Strain Gauge Alignment Tool No. 9689

Fig. 9: SRS Load Tool Kit No. 8443 or 8443A

Fig. 10: Jumper No. 8443-1

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Fig. 15: Adapter No. 8443-32-R (BLACK)


CHILD RESTRAINT ANCHOR
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 17: Identifying Child Restraint Lower Anchors & Child Restraint Upper Tether Anchor
This vehicle is equipped with a Lower Anchors and Tether for Children, or LATCH child restraint anchorage
system. The second row seats in these vehicles are equipped with a fixed-position child restraint upper tether
anchor (2) for both the center and the two outboard seating positions, and child restraint lower anchors (1) for
the two outboard seating positions.
Fig. 18: Identifying Upper Tether Anchors & Molded Plastic Trim Bezel
The upper tether anchors (1) are each integral to the second row seat back panels. These anchors are each
constructed from short lengths of heavy-gauge steel wire that is securely welded into stamped steel cups that are
integral to the seat back panels. There is a separate molded plastic trim bezel (2) located around each of these
anchors. The child restraint upper tether anchors cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if ineffective or damaged,
they must be replaced as a unit with their respective second row seat back panels.
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Fig. 19: Identifying Second Row Seat Back, Lower Anchors & Seat Cushion
The lower anchors (2) for this vehicle are integral to their respective second row seat brackets, which are
secured to the rear floor panel at the front with studs and nuts, and at the rear with screws. These anchors are
each constructed from a heavy-gauge steel wire loop that is securely welded to the seat bracket. The anchor
loops are located where the second row seat back (1) meets the seat cushion (3). The child restraint lower tether
anchors cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if ineffective or damaged, they must be replaced as a unit with their
respective second row seat brackets.
unused replacement parts .
OPERATION
All vehicles manufactured for sale in the United States and Canada are required to be equipped with a Lower
Anchors and Tether for Children, or LATCH child restraint anchorage system. The second row seats in this
vehicle have two pairs of anchor provisions for installing a LATCH-compatible child seat. A single seat may be
mounted in the center seating position, or one in each outboard seating position.
With LATCH, child seats are secured by direct attachment to the vehicle seat structure, rather than by the seat
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belts. With LATCH-compatible child seats, lower anchors attach to the seat structure through heavy-gauge wire
loops located at the intersection between the seat cushion and the seat back surfaces.
Three upper tether anchors are integral to the second row seat back frames to secure the top tether strap of child
seats equipped with this feature. These upper tether anchors work with both LATCH-compatible and other child
seats equipped with a top tether strap.
The owner's information packet in the vehicle glove box contains details and suggestions on the proper use of
all of the factory-installed child restraint anchors.
CLOCKSPRING
DESCRIPTION
CLOCKSPRING
Fig. 20: Steering Control Module Components

The clockspring (3) for this vehicle is secured near the top of the steering column below the steering wheel. The
clockspring also includes an integral, internal turn signal cancel cam and a Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) that are
both serviced as a unit with the clockspring. The clockspring also supports the left (lighting) multi-function
switch (1), the Steering Control Module (SCM) internal to the left multi-function switch housing (2), and the
right (wiper) multi-function switch (6). Each of these switches and the jumper wire harness (5) between the two
multi-function switches can be separated from and are serviced individually from the clockspring.
The clockspring case includes integral tabs for mounting the unit with three screws to the steering column lock
housing as well as integral provisions for mounting and supporting both multi-function switches. The multi-
function switches are each secured to the clockspring with a single screw (7). The SAS within the clockspring
includes an electronic circuit board and a microprocessor, which allows it to communicate with other electronic
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modules in the vehicle over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus. The SAS circuitry, the clockspring,
and the turn signal cancel cam are all contained within a flat, molded plastic case.
The clockspring case includes three connector receptacles that face toward the instrument panel. Within the
plastic case is a spool-like molded plastic rotor with a large exposed hub. The upper surface of the rotor hub has
a large center hole, two short pigtail wires with connectors, and a connector receptacle that faces toward the
steering wheel. The lower surface of the rotor has an integral dowel or drive pin that also faces toward the
steering wheel. Wound around the rotor spool within the case is a long ribbon-like tape that consists of several
thin copper wire leads sandwiched between two thin plastic membranes. The outer end of the tape terminates at
two of the connector receptacles that face the instrument panel, while the inner end of the tape terminates at the
pigtail wires and connector receptacle on the hub of the clockspring rotor that face the steering wheel. The outer
surface of the rotor hub rim within the clockspring case also has the integral lobes of the turn signal cancel cam.
The service replacement clockspring is shipped pre-centered and with a molded plastic locking pin (4) installed.
The locking pin secures the centered clockspring rotor to the clockspring case during shipment and handling,
but must be removed after the clockspring is installed on the steering column and the steering wheel is installed.
See CLOCKSPRING CENTERING.
The clockspring cannot be repaired. If the clockspring is ineffective, damaged, or if the driver airbag has been
deployed, the clockspring/turn signal cancel cam/SAS unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
CLOCKSPRING
The clockspring is a mechanical electrical circuit component that is used to provide continuous electrical
continuity between the fixed instrument panel wire harness and certain electrical components mounted on or in
the rotating steering wheel. On this vehicle the rotating electrical components include the driver airbag, the horn
switch, the speed control switch, the remote radio switches and the Electronic Vehicle Information Center
(EVIC) control switches, if the vehicle is so equipped. The clockspring is positioned and secured near the top of
the steering column. The fixed connector receptacles on the back of the fixed clockspring case connect the
clockspring to the vehicle electrical system through three take outs with connectors from the instrument panel
wire harness.
The turn signal cancel cam is integral to the rim of the clockspring rotor hub within the clockspring case so it
also moves with the rotation of the steering wheel. Two short, black-sleeved pigtail wires on the upper surface
of the clockspring rotor connect the clockspring to the driver airbag, while a steering wheel wire harness
connected to the connector receptacle on the upper surface of the clockspring rotor complete circuits to the horn
switch, the speed control switch and, if the vehicle is so equipped, to the optional remote radio switches and
EVIC control switches on the steering wheel. The third connector receptacle is dedicated to the inputs and
outputs of the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) internal to the clockspring case.
Like the clockspring in a timepiece, the clockspring tape has travel limits and can be damaged by being wound
too tightly during full stop-to-stop steering wheel rotation. To prevent this from occurring, the clockspring is
centered when it is installed on the steering column. Centering the clockspring indexes the clockspring tape to
the movable steering components so that the tape can operate within its designed travel limits. However, if the
steering wheel is removed from the steering column, if the clockspring is removed from the steering column, or
if the steering shaft is disconnected from the steering gear, the clockspring spool can change position relative to
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the other steering components. The clockspring must be re-centered following completion of this service or the
tape may be damaged.
Service replacement clocksprings are shipped pre-centered and with a plastic locking pin installed. This locking
pin should not be removed until the steering wheel has been installed on the steering column. If the locking pin
is removed before the steering wheel is installed on a steering column, the clockspring centering procedure must
be performed. See CLOCKSPRING CENTERING. Proper clockspring installation may be confirmed by
viewing the SAS data using a diagnostic scan tool.
The hard wired clockspring circuits as well as the hard wired inputs and outputs of the SAS may be diagnosed
using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. However,
conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the SAS or the electronic controls
or communication between other modules and devices that provide features of the Electronic Stability Program
(ESP) or Supplemental Restraint System (SRS). The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the
SAS or the electronic controls and communication related to ESP or SRS operation requires the use of a
diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CLOCKSPRING CENTERING
NOTE: A service replacement clockspring is shipped with the clockspring pre-centered

and with a molded plastic locking pin installed. This locking pin should not be
removed until the steering wheel has been installed on the steering column. If
the locking pin is removed before the steering wheel is installed, the
clockspring centering procedure must be performed.
NOTE: When a clockspring is installed into a vehicle without properly centering and
locking the entire steering system, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) data does
not agree with the true position of the steering system and causes the ESP
system to shut down. This may also damage the clockspring without any
immediate malfunction. Unlike some other DaimlerChrysler vehicles, this SAS
never requires calibration. See CLOCKSPRING CENTERING.
NOTE: Determining if the clockspring/SAS is centered is also possible electrically

using the diagnostic scan tool. Steering wheel position is displayed as ANGLE
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with a range of up to 900 degrees. Refer to the appropriate menu item on the
diagnostic scan tool.
NOTE: Before starting this procedure, be certain to turn the steering wheel until the
front wheels are in the straight-ahead position and that the entire steering
system is locked or inhibited from rotation.
NOTE: The clockspring may be centered and the rotor may be rotated freely once the
steering wheel has been removed.
Fig. 21: Identifying Clockspring Components

1. Place the front wheels in the straight-ahead position and inhibit the steering column shaft from rotation.
2. Remove the steering wheel from the steering shaft. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Rotate the clockspring rotor (1) clockwise to the end of its travel. Do not apply excessive torque.
4. From the end of the clockwise travel, rotate the rotor about two and one-half turns counterclockwise.
Turn the rotor slightly clockwise or counterclockwise as necessary so that the clockspring airbag pigtail
wires (3) and connector receptacle are at the top and the dowel pin (5) is at the bottom.
5. The clockspring is now centered. Secure the clockspring rotor to the clockspring case using a locking pin
(2) or some similar device to maintain clockspring centering until the steering wheel is reinstalled on the
steering column.
REMOVAL
CLOCKSPRING
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never requires calibration. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.

Fig. 22: Identifying Screws, Steering Column Lock Housing, Right Multi-Function Switch, Clockspring
& Left Multi-Function Switch
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1. Place the front wheels in the straight ahead position and inhibit the steering column shaft from rotation.
3. Remove the steering wheel from the steering shaft. Refer to REMOVAL .
4. If the removed clockspring is to be reused, be certain to secure the clockspring rotor to the clockspring
case to maintain clockspring centering until the steering wheel is reinstalled on the steering column. If
clockspring centering is not maintained, the clockspring must be centered again before the steering wheel
is reinstalled. See CLOCKSPRING CENTERING.
5. Move the steering column to the fully lowered position and leave the tilt release lever in the released
(down) position.
6. Remove the upper and lower shrouds from the steering column. Refer to REMOVAL .
7. Remove the right multi-function switch (3) from the clockspring (4). Refer to REMOVAL .
8. Remove the left multi-function switch (5) from the clockspring. Refer to REMOVAL .
9. Remove the three screws (1) that secure the clockspring to the steering column lock housing (2).
Fig. 23: Identifying Clockspring & Instrument Panel Wire Harness Connectors
10. Pull the clockspring (1) away from the steering column lock housing far enough to access and disconnect
the three instrument panel wire harness connectors (2) from the receptacles on the back of the clockspring
case.
11. Remove the clockspring from the steering column.
INSTALLATION
CLOCKSPRING
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never requires calibration. See CLOCKSPRING CENTERING.

Fig. 24: Identifying Clockspring & Instrument Panel Wire Harness Connectors
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1. If a new clockspring (1) is being installed, transfer the multifunction switch jumper harness from the old
clockspring or position a new jumper harness onto the new clockspring.
2. Carefully slide the clockspring down over the steering column upper shaft far enough to reconnect the
three instrument panel wire harness connectors (2) to the receptacles on the back of the clockspring case.
Fig. 25: Identifying Screws, Steering Column Lock Housing, Right Multi-Function Switch,
Clockspring & Left Multi-Function Switch
3. Position the clockspring (4) onto the steering column lock housing (2).
4. Install and tighten the three screws (1) that secure the clockspring to the lock housing in the following
sequence: lower right, upper left, upper right. Tighten the screws to 3 N.m (27 in. lbs.).
NOTE: Use of an improper sequence when tightening the clockspring mounting

screws may result in an audible ticking noise as the steering wheel is
rotated.
5. Reinstall the left multi-function switch (5) onto the clockspring. Refer to INSTALLATION .
6. Reinstall the right multi-function switch (3) onto the clockspring. Refer to INSTALLATION .
7. Reinstall the upper and lower shrouds onto the steering column. Refer to INSTALLATION .
8. Move the steering column back to the fully raised position and move the tilt release lever back to the
locked (up) position.
9. Reinstall the steering wheel onto the steering column. Refer to INSTALLATION .
10. Remove the plastic locking pin that secures the clockspring rotor to the clockspring case to maintain
clockspring centering.
11. Reconnect the battery negative cable.
CURTAIN AIRBAG
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DESCRIPTION
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
Fig. 26: SRS Emblem

Side curtain airbags are standard equipment for this vehicle when it is also equipped with dual front airbags.
These airbags are passive, inflatable, Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) components, and vehicles with this
equipment can be readily identified by a molded identification trim plug with the SRS - AIRBAG logo located
near the tops of the B and C-pillar trim. This system is designed to reduce injuries to the vehicle occupants in
the event of a side impact collision or a vehicle rollover incident.
Fig. 27: Identifying Long Tether, Individually Controlled Curtain Airbag Units & Hybrid-Type Inflator
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Each vehicle has two individually controlled curtain airbag units (2). These airbag units are concealed and
mounted above the headliner where they are each secured to one of the roof side rails by two plastic push-in
fasteners and to five studs on the inner roof side rail by five nuts. Each folded airbag cushion is contained
within a fabric wrap and has molded plastic ramps that extend along the roof rail from the A-pillar at the front
of the vehicle to just behind the C-pillar at the rear of the vehicle.
A long tether (1) extends down the A-pillar from the front of the airbag cushion. The tether is secured to
mounting holes in the inner A-pillar sheet metal with plastic push-in routing clips and is secured to the base of
the A-pillar near the belt line with a metal key engaged into a slot in the A-pillar. A plastic push-in fastener fills
the A-pillar slot after the metal key is installed to prevent the key from becoming disengaged.
The hybrid-type inflator (3) for each airbag is secured to the roof rail at the rear of the airbag unit between the
C-pillar and the D-pillar, and is connected to the airbag cushion by a long tubular manifold. The bracket holding
the inflator is secured by nuts to two studs on the inner roof side rail.
One end of a two-wire jumper harness connects to the initiator at the forward end of the curtain airbag inflator.
The other end is routed down the D-pillar with plastic push-in routing clips and connects to the body wire
harness near the belt line, which connects the airbag unit to the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC).
The side curtain airbag unit cannot be adjusted or repaired and must be replaced if deployed, ineffective, or in
any way damaged. Once a side curtain airbag has been deployed, the complete airbag unit, the headliner, the
upper A, B, C and D-pillar trim, and all other visibly damaged components must be replaced.
OPERATION
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
Each side curtain airbag is deployed individually by an electrical signal generated by the Occupant Restraint
Controller (ORC) to which it is connected through left or right curtain airbag line 1 and line 2 (or squib)
circuits. The hybrid-type inflator assembly for each airbag contains a small canister of highly compressed inert
gas. When the ORC sends the proper electrical signal to the airbag inflator, the electrical energy creates enough
heat to ignite chemical pellets within the inflator.
Once ignited, these chemicals burn rapidly and produce the pressure necessary to rupture a containment disk in
the inert gas canister. The inflator and inert gas canister are sealed and connected to a tubular manifold so that
all of the released gas is directed into the folded curtain airbag cushion, causing the cushion to inflate. As the
airbag cushion inflates it will drop down from the roof rail between the edge of the headliner and the side
glass/body pillars to form a curtain-like cushion to protect the vehicle occupants during a side impact collision
or a vehicle rollover incident.
The front tether keeps the front portion of the bag taut to the side of the vehicle, thus ensuring that the bag will
deploy in the proper position. Following the airbag deployment, the airbag cushion slowly deflates by venting
the inert gas through the loose weave of the cushion fabric, and the deflated cushion hangs down loosely from
the roof rail.
Proper diagnosis of the side curtain airbag inflator and squib circuits requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool.
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REMOVAL
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury when removing a deployed airbag, rubber
gloves, eye protection, and a long-sleeved shirt should be worn. There
may be deposits on the airbag unit and other interior surfaces. In large
doses, these deposits may cause irritation to the skin and eyes.
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, use extreme care to prevent any foreign
material from entering the side curtain airbag, or becoming entrapped
between the side curtain airbag cushion and the headliner. Failure to
observe this warning could result in occupant injuries upon airbag
deployment.
NOTE: The following procedure is for replacement of an ineffective or damaged side

curtain airbag. If the airbag is ineffective or damaged, but not deployed, review
the recommended procedures for handling non-deployed supplemental
restraints. See HANDLING NON-DEPLOYED SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINTS. If
the side curtain airbag has been deployed, review the recommended
procedures for service after a supplemental restraint deployment before
removing the airbag from the vehicle.
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Fig. 28: Inner A/D-Pillar Components

1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Wait two minutes for the system capacitor to discharge
before further service.
2. Remove the headliner from the vehicle. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Disengage the plastic push-in routing clips that secure the jumper wire harness (9) to the inner D-pillar.
4. Disconnect the jumper wire harness from the body wire harness connector (8) for the side curtain airbag
located on the inner D-pillar near the belt line.
5. Remove the push-in fastener that secures the side curtain airbag tether metal key (6) in the slot near the
base of the inner A-pillar.
6. Disengage the tether metal key from the A-pillar slot.
7. Disengage the two plastic push-in routing clips (5) that secure the tether to the inner A-pillar.
8. Remove the seven nuts (3) that secure the side curtain airbag (4) and the inflator (1) bracket to the studs
on the inner roof side rail.
9. Disengage the two plastic push-in fasteners (2) that secure the airbag unit to the inner roof side rail.
10. Disengage the side curtain airbag from under the grab handle bracket (7) on the inner roof side rail above
the rear door opening.
11. Remove the side curtain airbag from the vehicle as a unit.
INSTALLATION
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
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material from entering the side curtain airbag, or becoming entrapped
between the side curtain airbag cushion and the headliner. Failure to
deployment.
NOTE: The following procedure is for replacement of an ineffective or damaged side

curtain airbag. If the airbag is ineffective or damaged, but not deployed, review
the recommended procedures for handling non-deployed supplemental
the side curtain airbag has been deployed, review the recommended
procedures for service after a supplemental restraint deployment before
removing the airbag from the vehicle.
Fig. 29: Inner A/D-Pillar Components

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1. Position the side curtain airbag (4) into the vehicle as a unit.
2. Engage the rear plastic push-in fastener (2) that secures the airbag unit to the inner roof side rail.
3. Tuck the side curtain airbag under the grab handle bracket (7) on the inner roof side rail above the rear
door opening.
4. Engage the front plastic push-in fastener (2) that secures the airbag unit to the inner roof side rail.
5. Engage the two plastic push-in routing clips (5) that secure the tether to the inner A-pillar.
6. Engage the side curtain airbag tether metal key (6) into the slot near the base of the inner A-pillar.
7. Install a plastic push-in fastener to secure the tether metal key within the inner A-pillar slot.
8. Position the side curtain airbag mounting tabs and the inflator (1) bracket onto the seven studs on the
inner roof side rail.
9. Working from the rear of the vehicle to the front, install and tighten the seven nuts (3) that secure the side
curtain airbag and inflator bracket to the studs. Tighten the nuts to 8 N.m (71 in. lbs.).
10. Reconnect the jumper wire harness (9) to the body wire harness connector (8) for the side curtain airbag
located on the inner D-pillar near the belt line.
11. Engage the plastic push-in routing clips that secure the jumper wire harness to the inner D-pillar.
12. Reinstall the headliner into the vehicle. Refer to INSTALLATION .
13. Do not reconnect the battery negative cable at this time. The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)
verification test procedure should be performed following service of any SRS component. See
VERIFICATION TEST - SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM.
DRIVER AIRBAG
DESCRIPTION
DRIVER AIRBAG
Fig. 30: Identifying Steering Wheel & Thermoplastic Driver Airbag Protective Trim Cover
The injection molded, thermoplastic driver airbag protective trim cover (2) is the most visible part of the driver
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airbag. The driver airbag is located in the center of the steering wheel (1), where it is secured to the armature
within the hub cavity of the four-spoke steering wheel. An injection molded, bright emblem with the Dodge
Ram logo is applied to the center of the trim cover.
Fig. 31: Identifying Trim Cover, Inflator, Housing, Snap Retainers & Receptacles
Concealed beneath the driver air bag trim cover are the folded airbag cushion, the airbag housing, the airbag
inflator and the retainers that secure the inflator to the housing. The airbag cushion, housing (3), and inflator (2)
are secured within an integral receptacle molded into the back of the trim cover (1). The vertical walls of this
receptacle have numerous integral latch features that are inserted through numerous openings around the
perimeter of the airbag housing. After the trim cover latches are fully seated in the housing a blocking tab
integral to the housing is bent down to block the latch feature of the trim cover, locking the trim cover securely
into place on the airbag housing. Three wire loop snap retainers (5) extend from the housing to secure the airbag
to the steering wheel armature. The snap retainer at the 6 o'clock position has a distinctive V-shape to ensure
proper orientation of the airbag when it is installed onto the steering wheel.
The airbag used in this vehicle is a multistage-type that complies with revised federal airbag standards to deploy
with less force than those used in some prior vehicles. A radial deploying 67.3 centimeter (26.5 inch) diameter
fabric airbag cushion with internal tethers is used. The airbag inflator is a dual-initiator, non-azide, pyrotechnic-
type unit and is secured to the stamped metal airbag housing using four flanged hex nuts. Two keyed and color-
coded connector receptacles (4) on the driver airbag inflator connect the two inflator initiators to the vehicle
electrical system through two yellow-jacketed, two-wire pigtail harnesses of the clockspring.
The driver airbag cannot be repaired, and must be replaced if deployed, ineffective, or in any way damaged.
OPERATION
DRIVER AIRBAG
The multistage driver airbag is deployed by electrical signals generated by the Occupant Restraint Controller
(ORC) through the driver airbag squib 1 and squib 2 circuits to the two initiators in the airbag inflator. By using
two initiators, the airbag can be deployed at multiple levels of force. The force level is controlled by the ORC to
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suit the monitored impact conditions by providing one of several delay intervals between the electrical signals
provided to the two initiators. The longer the delay between these signals, the less forcefully the airbag will
deploy.
When the ORC sends the proper electrical signals to each initiator, the electrical energy generates enough heat
to initiate a small pyrotechnic charge which, in turn ignites chemical pellets within the inflator. Once ignited,
these chemical pellets burn rapidly and produce a large quantity of inert gas. The inflator is sealed to the back of
the airbag housing and a diffuser in the inflator directs all of the inert gas into the airbag cushion, causing the
cushion to inflate. As the cushion inflates, the driver airbag trim cover will split at predetermined breakout lines,
then fold back out of the way. Following an airbag deployment, the airbag cushion quickly deflates by venting
the inert gas towards the instrument panel through vent holes within the fabric used to construct the back
(steering wheel side) panel of the airbag cushion.
Some of the chemicals used to create the inert gas may be considered hazardous while in their solid state before
they are burned, but they are securely sealed within the airbag inflator. Typically, both initiators are used and all
potentially hazardous chemicals are burned during an airbag deployment event. However, it is possible for only
one initiator to be used during a deployment due to an airbag system fault; therefore, it is necessary to always
confirm that both initiators have been used in order to avoid the improper disposal of potentially live
pyrotechnic or hazardous materials. See SERVICE AFTER A SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT
DEPLOYMENT.
The inert gas that is produced when the chemicals are burned is harmless. However, a small amount of residue
from the burned chemicals may cause some temporary discomfort if it contacts the skin, eyes, or breathing
passages. If skin or eye irritation is noted, rinse the affected area with plenty of cool, clean water. If breathing
passages are irritated, move to another area where there is plenty of clean, fresh air to breath. If the irritation is
not alleviated by these actions, contact a physician.
Proper diagnosis of the driver airbag inflator and squib circuits requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer
to the appropriate diagnostic information.
REMOVAL
DRIVER AIRBAG
may be deposits on the airbag cushion and other interior surfaces. In
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large doses, these deposits may cause irritation to the skin and eyes.
NOTE: The following procedure is for replacement of an ineffective or damaged driver

airbag. If the airbag is ineffective or damaged, but not deployed, review the
recommended procedures for handling non-deployed supplemental restraints.
See HANDLING NON-DEPLOYED SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINTS. If the driver
airbag has been deployed, review the recommended procedures for service
after a supplemental restraint deployment before removing the airbag from the
vehicle.
Fig. 32: Identifying Airbag Retainer Access Holes & Steering Wheel
2. Release the steering column tilt lever and lower the column to its most downward position for easiest
driver airbag removal access.
NOTE: It may be helpful to use a small mirror to aid visibility during the initial
attempt to remove the driver airbag from the steering wheel.
3. There are three airbag retainer access holes (1) on the instrument panel side of the hub of the steering
wheel (2), located at the two o'clock, six o'clock and ten o'clock positions. The steering wheel must be
rotated to bring each of these access holes up to the twelve o'clock position of the steering column one at
a time for removal access.
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Fig. 33: Identifying Flat-Bladed Screwdriver, Screwdriver Blade & Steering Wheel Hub Trim
Cover
4. Insert the tip of a short handled, flat-bladed screwdriver (1) into either of the upper (two o'clock or ten
o'clock) access holes of the steering wheel hub trim cover (3) being certain to place the screwdriver blade
(2) on the inboard side of the airbag snap retainer wire loop.
Fig. 34: Identifying Electrical Connections, Hook, Driver Airbag, Snap Retainer Wire Loop &
Steering Wheel
5. Twist the screwdriver handle in either direction far enough to disengage the snap retainer wire loop (4)
from the hook (2) of the steering wheel armature. At the same time, gently pull the driver airbag (3) away
from the steering wheel (5) to prevent the retainer from snapping back into place over the hook once it is
disengaged.
6. Repeat step 4 and 5.at the other upper (two o'clock or ten o'clock) access hole to disengage the other
upper snap retainer wire loop.
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7. Repeat step 4 and 5 at the lower (six o'clock) access hole to disengage the lower snap retainer wire loop.
The lower snap retainer wire loop has a distinctive V-shape and must always be installed onto the six
o'clock hook of the steering wheel armature.
8. Pull the driver airbag away from the steering wheel far enough to access the electrical connections (1) at
the back of the airbag housing.
Fig. 35: Identifying Driver Airbag, Lower Airbag Snap Retainer Wire Loop, Electrical Connections
& Airbag Inflator
CAUTION: Do not pull on the clockspring pigtail wires or pry on the connector
insulator to disengage the connector from the driver airbag inflator
connector receptacle. Improper removal of these pigtail wires and
their connector insulators can result in damage to the airbag circuits
or the connector insulators.
9. The clockspring driver airbag pigtail wire connectors (4) are secured by an integral lock to the airbag
inflator (5) connector receptacles, which are located on the back of the driver airbag (1) housing. Firmly
grasp and pull the lock straight out from the connector insulator, then pull the insulators straight out from
the airbag inflator to disconnect them from the connector receptacles.
10. Remove the driver airbag from the steering wheel.
11. If the driver airbag has been deployed, the clockspring must be replaced. See REMOVAL.
INSTALLATION
DRIVER AIRBAG
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material from entering the driver airbag, or becoming entrapped between
the driver airbag cushion and the driver airbag trim cover. Failure to
deployment.
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, the driver airbag trim cover must never be
painted. Replacement airbags are serviced with trim covers in the original
colors. Paint may change the way in which the material of the trim cover
responds to an airbag deployment. Failure to observe this warning could
result in occupant injuries upon airbag deployment.
NOTE: The following procedure is for replacement of an ineffective or damaged driver

airbag. If the airbag is ineffective or damaged, but not deployed, review the
recommended procedures for handling non-deployed supplemental restraints.
See HANDLING NON-DEPLOYED SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINTS. If the driver
airbag has been deployed, review the recommended procedures for service
after a supplemental restraint deployment before removing the airbag from the
vehicle.
Fig. 36: Identifying Driver Airbag, Lower Airbag Snap Retainer Wire Loop, Electrical Connections &
Airbag Inflator
1. Position the driver airbag (1) close enough to the steering wheel to reconnect the electrical connections
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(4) to the back of the airbag housing.

2. When installing the driver airbag, reconnect the two clockspring driver airbag pigtail wire connectors to
the airbag inflator (5) connector receptacles by pressing straight in on the connectors, then push the locks
straight into the connectors. Be certain to engage each keyed and color-coded connector to the matching
connector receptacle.
3. Carefully position the driver airbag into the steering wheel hub. Be certain that the clockspring pigtail
wires are not pinched between the driver airbag and the horn switch or the steering wheel armature.
4. Engage the lower airbag snap retainer wire loop (3) onto the lower hook of the steering wheel armature.
The lower snap retainer wire loop has a distinctive V-shape and must always be installed onto the six
o'clock hook of the steering wheel armature.
Fig. 37: Identifying Electrical Connections, Hook, Driver Airbag, Snap Retainer Wire Loop &
Steering Wheel
5. Roll the driver airbag (3) upwards and press firmly and evenly over the two upper snap retainer wire loop
(4) locations simultaneously until they snap into place over the two upper hooks (2) of the steering wheel
armature.
IMPACT SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
FRONT IMPACT SENSOR
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Fig. 38: Impact Sensor Components

Two front impact sensors (1) are used on this vehicle, one each for the left and right sides of the vehicle. These
sensors are mounted remotely from the impact sensor that is internal to the Occupant Restraint Controller
(ORC). Each front sensor is secured with a nut to a stud on the back of the front end module carrier on either
side of the cooling module, below and inboard of the front park/turn signal lamp socket within the engine
compartment. The sensor housing has an integral connector receptacle (4), an integral anti-rotation pin (3), and
an integral mounting hole (2) with a metal sleeve to provide crush protection.
The right and left front impact sensors are identical in construction and calibration. A cavity in the center of the
molded black plastic impact sensor housing contains the electronic circuitry of the sensor which includes an
electronic communication chip and an electronic impact sensor. A nylon cover is laser-welded over the cavity to
seal and protect the internal electronic circuitry and components. The front impact sensors are each connected to
the vehicle electrical system through a short jumper wire harness to a dedicated take out and connector of the
body wire harness.
The impact sensors cannot be repaired or adjusted and, if damaged or ineffective, they must be replaced.
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SIDE IMPACT SENSOR
Fig. 39: Impact Sensor Components

Two side impact sensors (1) are used on this vehicle when it is equipped with the side curtain airbags, two each
for the left and right sides of the vehicle. These sensors are mounted remotely from the impact sensor that is
internal to the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC). Each side sensor is secured with a nut to a stud on the
inner right or left B-pillar above the front seat belt retractor, or to a stud on the right or left inner C-pillar just
forward of the second row outboard seat belt retractor within the passenger compartment. The sensor housing
has an integral connector receptacle (4), an integral anti-rotation pin (3), and an integral mounting hole (2) with
a metal sleeve to provide crush protection.
The right and left side impact sensors are identical in construction and calibration. A cavity in the center of the
molded black plastic impact sensor housing contains the electronic circuitry of the sensor which includes an
electronic communication chip and an electronic impact sensor. A nylon cover is laser-welded over the cavity to
seal and protect the internal electronic circuitry and components. The side impact sensors are each connected to
the vehicle electrical system through a dedicated take out and connector of the body wire harness.
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The impact sensors cannot be repaired or adjusted and, if damaged or ineffective, they must be replaced.
OPERATION
SIDE IMPACT SENSOR
The side impact sensors are electronic accelerometers that sense the rate of vehicle deceleration, which provides
verification of the direction and severity of an impact. Each sensor also contains an electronic communication
chip that allows the unit to communicate the sensor status as well as sensor fault information to the
microprocessor in the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC).
The ORC microprocessor continuously monitors all of the side passive restraint system electrical circuits to
determine the system readiness. If the ORC detects a monitored system fault, it sets a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) and controls the airbag indicator operation accordingly. The impact sensors each receive battery current
and ground through the same left or right sensor plus and minus circuits in a series arrangement from the ORC.
The impact sensors and the ORC communicate by modulating the voltage in the sensor plus circuit.
The hard wired circuits between the side impact sensors and the ORC may be diagnosed using conventional
diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. However, conventional diagnostic
methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the impact sensors or the electronic controls or
communication between other modules and devices that provide features of the supplemental restraint system.
The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the impact sensors or the electronic controls and
communication related to side impact sensor operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the
appropriate diagnostic information.
FRONT IMPACT SENSOR
The front impact sensors are electronic accelerometers that sense the rate of vehicle deceleration, which
provides verification of the direction and severity of an impact. Each sensor also contains an electronic
communication chip that allows the unit to communicate the sensor status as well as sensor fault information to
the microprocessor in the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC).
The ORC microprocessor continuously monitors all of the passive restraint system electrical circuits to
determine the system readiness. If the ORC detects a monitored system fault, it sets a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) and controls the airbag indicator operation accordingly. The impact sensors each receive battery current
and ground through dedicated left and right sensor plus and minus circuits from the ORC. The impact sensors
and the ORC communicate by modulating the voltage in the sensor plus circuit.
The hard wired circuits between the front impact sensors and the ORC may be diagnosed using conventional
methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the impact sensors or the electronic controls or
communication between other modules and devices that provide features of the supplemental restraint system.
The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the impact sensors or the electronic controls and
communication related to front impact sensor operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the
REMOVAL
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SIDE IMPACT SENSOR - B-PILLAR
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, never strike or drop the side impact
sensor, as it can damage the impact sensor or affect its calibration. The
side impact sensor enables the system to deploy the side Supplemental
Restraint System (SRS) components. If an impact sensor is accidentally
dropped during service, the sensor must be scrapped and replaced with a
new unit. Failure to observe this warning could result in accidental,
incomplete, or improper side SRS component deployment.
NOTE: The front and side impact sensors are interchangeable.
Fig. 40: Identifying B-Pillar, Nut, Side Impact Sensor & Body Wire Harness Connector
1. Adjust the driver or passenger side front seat to its most forward position for easiest access to the B-pillar
trim.
3. Remove the trim from the inside of the lower right or left B-pillar (1). Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Remove the nut (2) that secures the side impact sensor (3) to the weld stud on the lower B-pillar.
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5. Remove the sensor from the weld stud on the inner B-pillar.
6. Disconnect the body wire harness connector (4) from the sensor connector receptacle.
SIDE IMPACT SENSOR - C-PILLAR
Fig. 41: Identifying Nut, Side Impact Sensor, Body Wire Harness Connector & C-Pillar
2. Remove the lower trim from the inside of the lower right or left C-pillar (4). Refer to REMOVAL .
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3. Remove the nut (1) that secures the side impact sensor (2) to the weld stud on the lower C-pillar.
4. Remove the sensor from the weld stud on the inner C-pillar.
5. Disconnect the body wire harness connector (3) for the side impact sensor from the sensor connector
receptacle.
FRONT IMPACT SENSOR
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, never strike or drop the front impact
front impact sensor enables the system to deploy the front Supplemental
incomplete, or improper front SRS component deployment.
Fig. 42: Identifying Front Lamp Unit Park/Turn Signal Bulb Socket, Body Wire Harness, Nut, Jumper
Wire Harness & Impact Sensor
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2. Service access for the right front impact sensor is accomplished by removing the air filter housing from
the engine compartment. Service access for the left front impact sensor is accomplished by raising and
supporting the vehicle, then removing the access plug from the front of the left front wheel house liner.
3. Remove the nut (3) that secures the front impact sensor (5) to the stud (6) on the back (engine
compartment side) of the front end module carrier below and inboard of the front lamp unit park/turn
signal bulb socket (1).
4. Disconnect one end of the jumper wire harness (4) from the right or left front impact sensor connector
receptacle or from the body wire harness (2).
5. Remove the right or left front impact sensor from the engine compartment.
INSTALLATION
FRONT IMPACT SENSOR
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, never strike or drop the front impact
front impact sensor enables the system to deploy the front Supplemental
incomplete, or improper front SRS component deployment.
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Fig. 43: Identifying Front Lamp Unit Park/Turn Signal Bulb Socket, Body Wire Harness, Nut, Jumper
Wire Harness & Impact Sensor
1. Service access for the right front impact sensor is accomplished by removing the air filter housing from
the engine compartment. Service access for the left front impact sensor is accomplished by raising and
supporting the vehicle, then removing the access plug from the front of the left front wheel house liner.
2. Position the right or left front impact sensor (5) into the engine compartment.
3. Reconnect the jumper wire harness (4) to the right or left front impact sensor connector receptacle or to
the body wire harness (2).
4. Position the sensor onto the stud (6) on the back (engine compartment side) of the front end module
carrier below and inboard of the front lamp unit park/turn signal bulb socket (1). Be certain that the anti-
rotation pin on the back of the sensor is engaged in the clearance notch of the carrier and the connector
receptacle is pointed straight downward.
5. Install and tighten the nut (3) that secures the sensor to the stud on the back of the carrier. Tighten the nut
to 8 N.m (71 in. lbs.).
SIDE IMPACT SENSOR - C-PILLAR
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Fig. 44: Identifying Nut, Side Impact Sensor, Body Wire Harness Connector & C-Pillar
1. Reconnect the body wire harness connector (3) to the side impact sensor (2) connector receptacle.
2. Position the impact sensor onto the weld stud on the inner C-pillar (4). Be certain that the anti-rotation pin
on the back of the sensor is engaged in the clearance hole of the C-pillar.
3. Install and tighten the nut (1) that secures the sensor to the weld stud on the inner C-pillar. Tighten the nut
to 7 N.m (62 in. lbs.).
4. Reinstall the trim onto the inside of the lower C-pillar. Refer to INSTALLATION .
SIDE IMPACT SENSOR - B-PILLAR
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Fig. 45: Identifying B-Pillar, Nut, Side Impact Sensor & Body Wire Harness Connector
1. Reconnect the body wire harness connector (4) to the side impact sensor (3) connector receptacle.
2. Position the sensor onto the weld stud on the inner B-pillar (1). Be certain that the anti-rotation pin on the
back of the sensor is engaged in the clearance hole of the B-pillar.
3. Install and tighten the nut (2) that secures the sensor to the weld stud on the inner B-pillar. Tighten the nut
to 7 N.m (62 in. lbs.).
4. Reinstall the lower trim onto the inside of the B-pillar. Refer to INSTALLATION .
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 46: Occupant Classification Module

The Occupant Classification Module (OCM) (1) is secured with two screws to a stamped metal bracket on the
inboard passenger side front seat riser beneath the seat cushion. Concealed within a hollow in the center of the
molded plastic OCM housing is a microprocessor and the other electronic circuitry of the module. The module
housing is sealed to enclose and protect the internal electronic circuitry.
Four mounting tabs (2) and two connector receptacles (3) are integral to the OCM housing. The two mounting
tabs designed to accept self tapping screws are used to secure the module to the mounting bracket, while the
remaining two mounting tabs are unused in this application. The connector receptacles contain terminal pins
that connect the OCM to the vehicle electrical system through dedicated take outs and connectors of the
passenger side front seat wire harness.
The OCM and all of the other components of the Occupant Classification System (OCS) including the
passenger side front seat, the seat weight sensors, and the seat adjusters, cushion, back, frame, foam, springs,
and wiring harness are a factory-calibrated and assembled unit. Any time any one of these components is
removed or replaced for any reason, the OCM must be re-calibrated using a diagnostic scan tool, the Occupant
Classification Seat Weight special tool, and the Occupant Classification System Verification Test. Refer to the
appropriate diagnostic procedures.
The OCM cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if damaged or ineffective, it must be replaced. The OCM
software is flash programmable. A non-calibrated OCM is available for separate service replacement.
OPERATION
The microprocessor in the Occupant Classification Module (OCM) contains the Occupant Classification System
(OCS) logic circuits. The OCM uses On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) and can communicate with other electronic
modules in the vehicle as well as with the diagnostic scan tool using the Controller Area Network (CAN) data
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bus. This method of communication is also used for OCS diagnosis and testing through the 16-way data link
connector located on the driver side lower edge of the instrument panel.
The OCM provides voltage to the four seat weight sensors located on the corners of the passenger side front
seat. The OCM then monitors return inputs from each of the sensors on dedicated hard wired data
communication circuits. The seat weight sensor inputs allow the OCM to determine whether the passenger side
front seat is occupied and the relative size of the occupant by providing a weight-sensing reference to the load
on the seat.
Pre-programmed decision algorithms and OCS calibration allow the OCM microprocessor to determine when
passenger airbag protection is appropriate based upon the seat load as signaled by the seat weight sensors. When
the programmed conditions are met, the OCM sends the proper electronic occupant classification messages
over the CAN data bus to the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC), and the ORC controls the deployment
circuits for the passenger side front supplemental restraints. On vehicles so equipped, the ORC also provides a
control output for the passenger airbag on/off indicator in the instrument panel based upon the electronic
occupant classification messages it receives from the OCM.
The OCM microprocessor continuously monitors all of the OCS electrical circuits and components to determine
the system readiness. If the OCM detects a monitored system fault, it sets an active and stored Diagnostic
Trouble Code (DTC) and sends the appropriate electronic messages to the ORC over the CAN data bus. Then
the ORC sets a DTC and sends messages to control the airbag indicator operation accordingly. An active fault
only remains for the duration of the fault, or in some cases for the duration of the current ignition switch cycle,
while a stored fault causes a DTC to be stored in memory by the OCM and the ORC. For some DTCs, if a fault
does not recur for a number of ignition cycles, the OCM will automatically erase the stored DTC. For other
internal faults, the stored DTC is latched forever.
The OCM receives battery current on a fused B(+) circuit through a fuse in the Totally Integrated Power
Module (TIPM) and receives electronic ignition switch status messages indicating the ignition switch position
over the CAN data bus. The OCM receives ground through a ground circuit and take out of the body wire
harness. These connections allow the OCM to be operational whenever the ignition switch is in the ON or
START positions.
The hard wired inputs and outputs for the OCM may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and
procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. However, conventional diagnostic methods will not
prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the OCM or the electronic controls and communication between other
modules and devices that provide features of the OCS. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to
diagnose the OCM or the electronic controls and communication related to OCM operation requires the use of a
REMOVAL
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NOTE: A non-calibrated Occupant Classification Module (OCM) is available for

separate service replacement. The OCM and all of the other components of the
Occupant Classification System (OCS) including the passenger side front seat,
the seat weight sensors, and the passenger seat adjusters, cushion, back,
frame, foam, springs, and wiring harness are a factory-calibrated and
assembled unit. Any time any one of these components is removed or replaced
for any reason, the OCM must be re-calibrated using a diagnostic scan tool, the
Occupant Classification Seat Weight special tool, and the Occupant
Classification System Verification Test. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic
procedures.
Fig. 47: Identifying Occupant Classification Module (OCM), Inboard Passenger Side Front Seat Riser,
Screws & Mounting Bracket
2. Reach under the front edge of the passenger side front seat cushion to access and disconnect the two seat
wire harness connectors from the Occupant Classification Module (OCM) (1) connector receptacles
located on the forward-facing end of the module.
3. Remove the two screws (3) that secure the OCM to the top of the mounting bracket (4) on the inboard
passenger side front seat riser (2).
4. Remove the OCM from under the passenger side front seat cushion.
INSTALLATION
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NOTE: A non-calibrated Occupant Classification Module (OCM) is available for

separate service replacement. The OCM and all of the other components of the
Occupant Classification System (OCS) including the passenger side front seat,
the seat weight sensors, and the passenger seat adjusters, cushion, back,
frame, foam, springs, and wiring harness are a factory-calibrated and
assembled unit. Any time any one of these components is removed or replaced
for any reason, the OCM must be re-calibrated using a diagnostic scan tool, the
Occupant Classification Seat Weight special tool, and the Occupant
Classification System Verification Test. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic
procedures.
Fig. 48: Identifying Occupant Classification Module (OCM), Inboard Passenger Side Front Seat Riser,
Screws & Mounting Bracket
1. Reach under the front edge of the passenger side front seat cushion to carefully position the Occupant
Classification Module (OCM) (1) to the top of the mounting bracket (4) on the inboard passenger side
front seat riser (2). When the OCM is correctly positioned, the connector receptacles on the module will
be pointed forward.
2. Install and tighten the two screws (3) that secure the OCM to the mounting bracket. Tighten the screws to
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2 N.m (20 in. lbs.).

3. Reconnect the two seat wire harness connectors to the OCM connector receptacles located on the
forward-facing end of the module. Be certain that the latches on each connector are fully engaged.
5. Following successful completion of the SRS verification test procedure, perform the Occupant
Classification System Verification Test using a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic
procedures.
OCCUPANT RESTRAINT CONTROLLER
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 49: Identifying Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC), Electrical Connector Receptacle, Label,
Arrow & Mounting Bracket
The Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) (1) is secured with four screws to a molded plastic mounting bracket
(5). The mounting bracket and ORC unit is then secured with two nuts and two screws to a stamped steel
mounting bracket welded onto the top of the floor panel transmission tunnel between the two front seats beneath
the floor console and rearward of the transmission gearshift mechanism in the passenger compartment of the
vehicle. Concealed within a hollow in the center of the molded plastic ORC housing is the electronic circuitry
of the ORC which includes a microprocessor, an electronic impact sensor, an electronic safing sensor, and an
energy storage capacitor. A molded plastic end cover plate with a rubber O-ring seal is secured to the open end
of the ORC housing with two integral latch features to enclose and protect the internal electronic circuitry and
components.
An arrow (4) printed on the label (3) on the top of the ORC housing provides a visual verification of the proper
orientation of the unit, and should always be pointed toward the front of the vehicle. The ORC housing has four
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integral mounting flanges with metal sleeves to provide crush protection. Two molded plastic electrical
connector receptacles (2) are integral to the end cover plate. These receptacles connect the ORC to the vehicle
electrical system through dedicated take outs and connectors from the instrument panel and the body wire
harnesses.
The impact sensor and safing sensor internal to the ORC are calibrated for the specific vehicle, and are only
serviced as a unit with the ORC. The ORC cannot be repaired or adjusted and, if damaged or ineffective, it must
be replaced as a unit with the molded plastic mounting bracket.
OPERATION
The microprocessor in the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) contains the Supplemental Restraint System
(SRS) logic circuits and controls all of the SRS components. The ORC uses On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) and
can communicate with other electronic modules in the vehicle as well as with the diagnostic scan tool using the
Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus. This method of communication is used for control of the airbag
indicator in the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment
Node/CCN) and for SRS diagnosis and testing through the 16-way data link connector located on the driver side
lower edge of the instrument panel. Refer to OPERATION .
The ORC microprocessor continuously monitors all of the SRS electrical circuits to determine the system
readiness. If the ORC detects a monitored system fault, it sets an active and stored Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) and sends electronic messages to the EMIC over the CAN data bus to turn ON the airbag indicator. An
active fault only remains for the duration of the fault, or in some cases for the duration of the current ignition
switch cycle, while a stored fault causes a DTC to be stored in memory by the ORC. For some DTCs, if a fault
does not recur for a number of ignition cycles, the ORC will automatically erase the stored DTC. For other
internal faults, the stored DTC is latched forever.
On vehicles so equipped, the ORC provides voltage to the seat track position sensors on the inboard passenger
and driver side front seat upper seat tracks. The ORC then monitors return inputs from each of the sensors on
dedicated hard wired data communication circuits. The seat track position sensors provide additional logic
inputs to the ORC microprocessor that allow it to determine the position of the front seat passenger and the
driver relative to the front airbags for determining the force level with which to deploy the multistage front
airbags.
On vehicles equipped with the Occupant Classification System (OCS), the ORC communicates with the
Occupant Classification Module (OCM) over the CAN data bus. The ORC will internally disable the passenger
airbag and seat belt tensioner deployment circuits if the OCM detects that the passenger side front seat is
unoccupied or that it is occupied by a load that is inappropriate for an airbag deployment. The ORC also
provides a control output to the passenger airbag on/off indicator through the passenger airbag indicator driver
circuit. The OCM notifies the ORC when it has detected a monitored system fault and stored a DTC in its
memory for any ineffective OCS component or circuit, then the ORC sets a DTC and controls the airbag
indicator operation accordingly.
The ORC receives battery current through two circuits; a fused ignition switch output (run) circuit through a
fuse in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), and a fused ignition switch output (run-start) circuit
through a second fuse in the TIPM. The ORC receives ground through a ground circuit and take out of the
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instrument panel wire harness. These connections allow the ORC to be operational whenever the ignition switch
is in the START or ON positions. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for additional details.
The ORC also contains an energy-storage capacitor. When the ignition switch is in the START or ON positions,
this capacitor is continually being charged with enough electrical energy to deploy the SRS components for up
to one second following a battery disconnect or failure. The purpose of the capacitor is to provide backup SRS
protection in case there is a loss of battery current supply to the ORC during an impact.
Two sensors are contained within the ORC, an electronic impact sensor and a safing sensor. The ORC also
monitors inputs from two remote front impact sensors located on the back of the right and left ends of the front
end module carrier inboard of the headlamps near the front of the vehicle. The electronic impact sensors are
accelerometers that sense the rate of vehicle deceleration, which provides verification of the direction and
severity of an impact. The ORC also monitors inputs from an internal rollover sensor and four additional remote
impact sensors located on the left and right inner B and C-pillars to control deployment of the side curtain
airbag units.
The safing sensor is an electronic accelerometer sensor within the ORC that provides an additional logic input
to the ORC microprocessor. The safing sensor is used to verify the need for a SRS component deployment by
detecting impact energy of a lesser magnitude than that of the primary electronic impact sensors, and must
exceed a safing threshold in order for the airbags to deploy. A second safing sensor within the ORC provides
confirmation to the ORC microprocessor of side impact forces. This second safing sensor is a bi-directional unit
that detects impact forces from either side of the vehicle.
Pre-programmed decision algorithms in the ORC microprocessor determine when the deceleration rate as
signaled by the impact sensors and the safing sensors indicate an impact that is severe enough to require SRS
protection and, based upon the severity of the monitored impact, determines the level of front airbag
deployment force required for each front seating position. When the programmed conditions are met, the ORC
sends the proper electrical signals to deploy the dual multistage front airbags at the programmed force levels,
the front seat belt tensioners and either side curtain airbag unit. For vehicles equipped with the OCS, the
passenger side front airbag and seat belt tensioner will be deployed by the ORC only if enabled by the OCM
messages (passenger airbag on/off indicator OFF) at the time of the impact.
The hard wired inputs and outputs for the ORC may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and
procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. However, conventional diagnostic methods will not
prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the ORC or the electronic controls or communication between other
modules and devices that provide features of the supplemental restraint system. The most reliable, efficient, and
accurate means to diagnose the ORC or the electronic controls and communication related to ORC operation
requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
REMOVAL
airbags, disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) before
attempting any Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) diagnosis or service.
The ORC contains a rollover sensor, which enables the system to deploy
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the side airbags in the event of a vehicle rollover event. If an ORC is

accidentally rolled during service while still connected to battery power,
the side curtain airbags will deploy. Disconnect and isolate the battery
negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the system capacitor
to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the
only sure way to disable the SRS. Failure to take the proper precautions
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, never strike or drop the Occupant
Restraint Controller (ORC), as it can damage the impact sensor or affect
its calibration. The ORC contains the impact sensor, which enables the
system to deploy the SRS components. If an ORC is accidentally dropped
during service, the module must be scrapped and replaced with a new
unit. Failure to observe this warning could result in accidental,
incomplete, or improper SRS component deployment.
CAUTION: On vehicles equipped with the Occupant Classification System (OCS),

never replace both the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) and the
Occupant Classification Module (OCM) at the same time. If both require
replacement, replace one. Then perform the Supplemental Restraint
System (SRS) verification test before replacing the other. Both the ORC
and the OCM store OCS calibration data, which they transfer to one
another when one of them is replaced. If both are replaced at the same
time, an irreversible fault will be set in both modules.
NOTE: The Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) should only be removed as a

complete unit with the molded plastic mounting bracket. The service
replacement ORC is supplied already installed on a new bracket.
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Fig. 50: Identifying Screws, Nuts, Occupant Restraint Controller, ORC Mount, Body Wire Harness
Connector & Instrument Panel Wire Harness Connector
2. Remove the center console from the top of the floor panel transmission tunnel. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Unlatch and disconnect the body wire harness connector (5) and the instrument panel wire harness
connector (6) from the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) (3) connector receptacles located on the
forward-facing side of the module. To disconnect the wire harness connectors from the ORC, depress the
release tab and lift the lever arm on each connector.
4. Remove the two nuts (2) that secure the left side of the ORC mounting bracket to the two studs on the
ORC mount (4) welded onto the top of the floor panel transmission tunnel.
5. Remove the two screws (1) that secure the right side of the ORC mounting bracket to the ORC mount.
6. Remove the ORC and mounting bracket unit from the ORC mount.
INSTALLATION
airbags, disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) before
attempting any Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) diagnosis or service.
The ORC contains a rollover sensor, which enables the system to deploy
the side airbags in the event of a vehicle rollover event. If an ORC is
accidentally rolled during service while still connected to battery power,
the side curtain airbags will deploy. Disconnect and isolate the battery
negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the system capacitor
to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the
only sure way to disable the SRS. Failure to take the proper precautions
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WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, never strike or drop the Occupant
Restraint Controller (ORC), as it can damage the impact sensor or affect
its calibration. The ORC contains the impact sensor, which enables the
system to deploy the SRS components. If an ORC is accidentally dropped
during service, the module must be scrapped and replaced with a new
unit. Failure to observe this warning could result in accidental,
incomplete, or improper SRS component deployment.
CAUTION: On vehicles equipped with the Occupant Classification System (OCS),

never replace both the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) and the
Occupant Classification Module (OCM) at the same time. If both require
replacement, replace one. Then perform the Supplemental Restraint
System (SRS) verification test before replacing the other. Both the ORC
and the OCM store OCS calibration data, which they transfer to one
another when one of them is replaced. If both are replaced at the same
time, an irreversible fault will be set in both modules.
NOTE: The Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) should only be removed as a

complete unit with the molded plastic mounting bracket. The service
replacement ORC is supplied already installed on a new bracket.
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Fig. 51: Identifying Screws, Nuts, Occupant Restraint Controller, ORC Mount, Body Wire Harness
Connector & Instrument Panel Wire Harness Connector
1. Carefully position the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) and mounting bracket unit (3) onto the two
studs on the left side of the ORC mount (4) on the floor panel transmission tunnel. When the ORC is
correctly positioned, the bracket will fit flush with the mount and the orientation arrow on the label on top
of the housing will be pointed forward in the vehicle.
2. Install and tighten the two screws (1) that secure the right side of the ORC mounting bracket to the ORC
mount. Tighten the screws to 10.5 N.m (95 in. lbs.).
3. Install and tighten the two nuts (2) that secure the left side of the ORC mounting bracket to the two studs
on the ORC mount. Tighten the nuts to 10.5 N.m (95 in. lbs.).
4. Reconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector (6) and the body wire harness connector (5) to the
ORC connector receptacles located on the forward-facing side of the module. Be certain that the latches
on the connectors are each fully engaged.
5. Reinstall the center console onto the top of the floor panel transmission tunnel. Refer to
INSTALLATION .
PASSENGER AIRBAG
DESCRIPTION
PASSENGER AIRBAG
Fig. 52: Identifying Thermoplastic Passenger Airbag Door & Glove Box
The rearward facing surface of the injection molded, thermoplastic passenger airbag door (1) is the most visible
part of the passenger airbag. The passenger airbag door is located above the glove box (2) opening on the top
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and face of the instrument panel in front of the front seat passenger seating position. The upper and lower edges
of the airbag door are secured with integral snap features to the instrument panel base trim.
Fig. 53: Identifying Passenger Airbag Housing, Stamped Hook Formations, Airbag Cushion, Inflator
Initiators, Lower Studs & Upper Studs
Located behind the passenger airbag door within the instrument panel is the passenger airbag unit. The
passenger airbag unit is secured through two lower studs (5) to the instrument panel structural support armature
above the glove box opening. While the two upper studs (6) are secured to a heavy stamped steel instrument
panel bracket secured to the dash panel near the lower windshield fence line and to the instrument panel
structural duct.
The passenger airbag housing (1) fits into a molded receptacle on the back of the airbag door, where several
stamped hook formations (2) on the upper and lower edges of the airbag housing are engaged in mating small
window openings on the upper and lower flanges of the receptacle to secure the airbag door to the airbag
housing. These airbag door fasteners and mounting provisions are all concealed beneath the instrument panel
base trim.
The passenger airbag unit used in this vehicle is a multistage, Next Generation-type that complies with revised
federal airbag standards to deploy with less force than those used in some prior vehicles. The passenger airbag
unit consists of a stamped metal housing, the airbag cushion (3), and a dual initiator airbag inflator. The airbag
housing contains the airbag inflator and the folded airbag cushion. An approximately 80 centimeter (31.5 inch)
wide by 90 centimeter (35.5 inch) high rectangular fabric cushion with internal tethers is used.
The airbag inflator is a non-azide, hybrid-type unit that is secured to and sealed within the airbag housing. The
two inflator initiators (4) are connected to the vehicle electrical system through dedicated take outs and
connectors of the instrument panel wire harness with connector insulators that connect directly to the two
inflator initiators. The connector insulators are uniquely keyed and color-coded to ensure they can only be
connected to the correct initiator.
A service replacement passenger airbag does not include the airbag door. The passenger airbag door may be
disassembled from the passenger airbag and is available for individual service replacement. The passenger
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airbag unit cannot be repaired and must be replaced if deployed, ineffective, or in any way damaged.
OPERATION
PASSENGER AIRBAG
The multistage passenger airbag is deployed by electrical signals generated by the Occupant Restraint
Controller (ORC) through the passenger airbag squib 1 and squib 2 circuits to the two initiators of the hybrid
airbag inflator. By using two initiators, the airbag can be deployed at multiple levels of force. The force level is
controlled by the ORC to suit the monitored impact conditions by providing one of several delay intervals
between the electrical signals provided to the two initiators. The longer the delay between these signals, the less
forcefully the airbag will deploy.
When the ORC sends the proper electrical signals to each initiator, the electrical energy generates enough heat
to initiate a small pyrotechnic charge which produces the pressure necessary to rupture a containment disk in an
inert gas canister. The inflator and inert gas canister are sealed to the airbag cushion and a diffuser in the
inflator directs all of the inert gas into the airbag cushion, causing the cushion to inflate. As the cushion inflates,
the passenger airbag door will split horizontally at predetermined tear seam lines concealed on the inside
surface of the door. The upper half of the door pivots up and the lower half pivots down and out of the way.
Following an airbag deployment, the airbag cushion quickly deflates by venting the inert gas through a vent
hole in each fabric side panel of the airbag cushion.
Typically, both initiators are used during an airbag deployment event. However, it is possible for only one
initiator to be used during a deployment due to an airbag system fault; therefore, it is necessary to always
confirm that both initiators have been used in order to avoid the improper disposal of potentially live
pyrotechnic materials. See SERVICE AFTER A SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT DEPLOYMENT.
Proper diagnosis of the passenger airbag inflator and the passenger airbag squib circuits requires the use of a
REMOVAL
PASSENGER AIRBAG
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NOTE: The following procedure is for replacement of an ineffective or damaged

passenger airbag. If the airbag is ineffective or damaged, but not deployed,
review the recommended procedures for handling non-deployed supplemental
the passenger airbag has been deployed, review the recommended procedures
for service after a supplemental restraint deployment before removing the
airbag from the vehicle.
Fig. 54: Identifying Windshield, Instrument Panel, Screw Guide & Screws
2. Remove the top cover from the instrument panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the two screws (4) from the screw guide (3) on the top of the instrument panel (2) near the
windshield (1) that secure the instrument panel bracket for the passenger airbag to the dash panel.
4. Using a trim stick or another suitable wide flat-bladed tool, pry the screw guide away from the top of the
instrument panel far enough to disengage the two integral latch features that secure it and remove the
screw guide to allow access to the trim screw that secures the passenger airbag instrument panel bracket
to the instrument panel structural duct.
5. Work through the rectangular hole in the top of the instrument panel beneath the removed screw guide to
access and remove the one screw that secures the center tab of the passenger airbag instrument panel
bracket to the structural duct.
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Fig. 55: Identifying Glove Box Latch Striker, Upper Glove Box Opening & Nuts
6. Remove the glove box from the instrument panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
7. Reach up into the instrument panel above the upper glove box opening (2) to access and remove the two
nuts (3) that secure the passenger airbag lower studs to the instrument panel base trim on each side of the
glove box latch striker (1).
8. Using a trim stick or another suitable wide flat-bladed tool, gently pry the lower edge of the passenger
airbag door rearward away from the upper glove box opening reinforcement far enough to disengage the
snap features on the door from the receptacles in the instrument panel base trim.
9. Grasp the lower edge of the passenger airbag door and gently pull the door and airbag rearward far
enough to disengage the upper snap features from the receptacles in the instrument panel base trim and to
access the two instrument panel wire harness connections to the airbag inflators at each side of the airbag
housing.
CAUTION: Do not pull on the instrument panel wire harness take outs or pry on
the connector insulators to disengage the connectors from the
passenger airbag inflator connector receptacles. Improper removal of
these take outs and their connector insulators can result in damage
to the airbag circuits or connector insulators.
10. The instrument panel passenger airbag wire harness connectors are secured by integral latches to the
airbag inflator connector receptacles, which are located on the sides of the passenger airbag housing.
Depress the latches on each side of each connector insulator and pull the insulators straight out from the
airbag inflator to disconnect them from the connector receptacles.
11. Remove the passenger airbag, airbag door and instrument panel bracket from the instrument panel as a
unit.
DISASSEMBLY
PASSENGER AIRBAG DOOR
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WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, service of this unit should be performed
only by DaimlerChrysler-trained and authorized dealer service
technicians. Failure to take the proper precautions or to follow the proper
procedures could result in accidental, incomplete, or improper airbag
deployment and possible occupant injuries.
material from entering the passenger airbag, or becoming entrapped
between the passenger airbag cushion and the passenger airbag door.
Failure to observe this warning could result in occupant injuries upon
airbag deployment.
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, the passenger airbag door must never be
painted. Replacement airbag doors are serviced in the original colors.
Paint may change the way in which the material of the airbag door
NOTE: The following procedures can be used to replace the passenger airbag door. If
the passenger airbag is deployed, the passenger airbag unit and the airbag
door must both be replaced.
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Fig. 56: Identifying Passenger Airbag Door, Airbag Housing, Lower Hooks & Receptacle
2. Remove the passenger airbag from the instrument panel. See REMOVAL.
3. Place the passenger airbag on a suitable work surface with the passenger airbag door (1) facing down. If
the airbag door will be reused, be certain to take the proper precautions to prevent the airbag door from
receiving cosmetic damage during the following procedures.
4. Disengage each of the upper hooks of the airbag housing (2) from the windows in the upper wall of the
receptacle (4) on the back of the airbag door. To disengage the hooks, use hand pressure to push the
adjacent edge of the airbag housing firmly and evenly downward into the airbag door receptacle, while at
the same time pulling outward on that edge of the receptacle wall.
5. With all of the upper hooks disengaged, roll the top of the airbag housing upward to disengage the lower
hooks (3) then lift the housing, inflator and cushion from the receptacle on the back of the passenger
airbag door.
PASSENGER AIRBAG INSTRUMENT PANEL BRACKET
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airbag deployment.
Fig. 57: Identifying Airbag Housing, Nuts & Passenger Airbag Instrument Panel Bracket
2. Remove the passenger airbag from the instrument panel. See REMOVAL.
3. Place the passenger airbag instrument panel bracket (3) facing up. Be certain to take the proper
precautions to prevent the airbag door from receiving cosmetic damage during the following procedures.
4. Remove the two nuts (2) that secure the bracket to the two studs on the top of the airbag housing (1).
5. Remove the bracket from the studs.
ASSEMBLY
PASSENGER AIRBAG DOOR
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airbag deployment.
painted. Replacement airbag doors are serviced in the original colors.
Paint may change the way in which the material of the airbag door
NOTE: The following procedures can be used to replace the passenger airbag door. If
the passenger airbag is deployed, the passenger airbag unit and the airbag
door must both be replaced.
Fig. 58: Identifying Passenger Airbag Door, Airbag Housing, Lower Hooks & Receptacle
1. Place the passenger airbag door (1) on a suitable work surface with the airbag receptacle (4) facing up. Be
certain to take the proper precautions to prevent the airbag door from receiving cosmetic damage during
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the following procedures.

2. Carefully position the passenger airbag housing (2) into the airbag door receptacle.
3. Work around the perimeter of the unit engaging each of the nine hooks (3) on the housing through the
windows in the upper and lower walls of the airbag door receptacle.
4. After the passenger airbag has been assembled, try pulling the airbag door and the airbag housing away
from each other. Visually verify that this action has fully seated all of the windows of the airbag door into
the cradles of the airbag housing hooks.
5. Reinstall the passenger airbag into the instrument panel. See INSTALLATION.
PASSENGER AIRBAG INSTRUMENT PANEL BRACKET
airbag deployment.
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Fig. 59: Identifying Airbag Housing, Nuts & Passenger Airbag Instrument Panel Bracket
1. Place the passenger airbag on a suitable work surface with the housing (1) facing up. Be certain to take
the proper precautions to prevent the airbag door from receiving cosmetic damage during the following
procedures.
2. Carefully position the passenger airbag instrument panel bracket (3) over the two studs on the top of the
airbag housing.
3. Install and tighten the two nuts (2) that secure the bracket to the studs on the housing. Tighten the nuts to
20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.).
4. Reinstall the passenger airbag onto the instrument panel. See INSTALLATION.
INSTALLATION
PASSENGER AIRBAG
airbag deployment.
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painted. Replacement passenger airbag units are serviced with doors in
the original colors. Paint may change the way in which the material of the
airbag door responds to an airbag deployment. Failure to observe this
warning could result in occupant injuries upon airbag deployment.
NOTE: The following procedure is for replacement of an ineffective or damaged

passenger airbag. If the airbag is ineffective or damaged, but not deployed,
review the recommended procedures for handling non-deployed supplemental
the passenger airbag has been deployed, review the recommended procedures
for service after a supplemental restraint deployment before removing the
airbag from the vehicle.
Fig. 60: Identifying Glove Box Latch Striker, Upper Glove Box Opening & Nuts
1. Position the passenger airbag, airbag door and instrument panel bracket to the opening in the face of the
instrument panel base trim as a unit.
2. Reconnect the two connector insulators of the instrument panel wire harness take outs to the airbag
inflator connector receptacles on each side of the airbag housing by pressing straight in on the connectors.
Be certain to engage each keyed and color-coded connector to the matching connector receptacle. You
can be certain that each connector is fully engaged in its receptacle by listening carefully for a distinct,
audible click as the connector latches snap into place.
3. Slide the passenger airbag forward being certain that the instrument panel bracket is engaged between the
dash panel and the instrument panel structural support at the lower windshield fence line and that the two
lower studs of the airbag are engaged in the holes of the instrument panel base trim. It may be necessary
to angle the forward end of the unit slightly downward and then roll it upward to engage the instrument
panel bracket properly between the fence line and the structural support.
4. Reach up into the instrument panel above the upper glove box opening (2) to install and tighten the two
nuts (3) that secure the passenger airbag lower studs to the instrument panel base trim on each side of the
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glove box latch striker (1). Tighten the nuts to 7 N.m (62 in. lbs.).
5. Reinstall the glove box into the instrument panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
Fig. 61: Identifying Windshield, Instrument Panel, Screw Guide & Screws
6. Work through the rectangular hole in the top of the instrument panel to install and tighten the one screw
that secures the center tab of the passenger airbag instrument panel bracket to the instrument panel
structural duct. Tighten the screw to 2.9 N.m (25 in. lbs.).
7. Position the screw guide (3) onto the top of the instrument panel (2) near the windshield (1) and, using
hand pressure, press the screw guide downward until both integral latch features snap into place.
8. Install and tighten the two screws (4) through the screw guide that secure the instrument panel bracket for
the passenger airbag to the dash panel. Tighten the screws to 29.5 N.m (21.5 ft. lbs.).
9. Using hand pressure, press the top of the passenger airbag door forward and downward until each snap
feature on the upper edge of the airbag door is fully engaged into its receptacle in the instrument panel
base trim.
10. Using hand pressure, wrap the passenger airbag door downward tightly against the instrument panel, then
push forward until each snap feature on the lower edge of the airbag door is fully engaged into its
receptacle in the instrument panel base trim.
11. Visually verify that each of the snap features of the airbag door is fully engaged in the instrument panel.
There will be a distinct bulge in the door over any snap that is not fully engaged.
12. Reinstall the top cover onto the instrument panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
PASSENGER AIRBAG ON/OFF INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION

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Vehicles equipped with the Occupant Classification System (OCS) include a passenger airbag on/off indicator
(4), which is located just to the right of the hazard switch (3) in the center of the instrument panel switch pod (1)
near the base of the instrument panel center bezel. The passenger airbag on/off indicator consists of a molded
plastic housing and a rectangular dark translucent outer lens.
The opaque text PASS AIRBAG OFF and an opaque International Control and Display Symbol icon for
Passenger Airbag Off or Not Available are imprinted on the back of the lens within the indicator. The dark
outer lens prevents the indicator text and icon from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. An amber
Light Emitting Diode (LED) behind the lens causes the text and icon to appear silhouetted against an amber
field through the translucent lens when the indicator is illuminated from behind by the LED.
The passenger airbag on/off indicator cannot be repaired or adjusted and, if ineffective or damaged, the switch
pod unit must be replaced. Refer to REMOVAL .
OPERATION
In the Occupant Classification System (OCS) the passenger airbag on/off indicator gives an indication when the
passenger airbag and seat belt tensioner deployment circuits are disabled by the Occupant Restraint Controller
(ORC). This indicator is controlled by a transistor within the ORC through a hard wired output based upon
ORC programming and electronic occupant classification messages received by the ORC over the Controller
Area Network (CAN) data bus from the Occupant Classification Module (OCM).
The passenger airbag on/off indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the ORC. The
LED receives a battery current input on a fused ignition switch output (run) circuit. Therefore, the LED will
always be OFF when the ignition switch is in any position except ON. The LED only illuminates when it is
provided a path to ground by the ORC transistor. The ORC will turn ON the passenger airbag on/off indicator
for the following reasons:
 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the passenger airbag on/off
indicator is illuminated for about six seconds.
 Child Seat Detected (or Load Less Than Minimum Weight Threshold) Occupant Classification
Message - Each time the ORC receives an electronic message from the OCM indicating a child seat has
been detected in the passenger side front seat (or that the seat load is less than a minimum weight
threshold) the passenger airbag and seat belt tensioner deployment circuits are deactivated and the
passenger airbag on/off indicator will be illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until the ORC
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receives an occupant classification message indicating that the passenger side front seat is empty, that
the seat is occupied by a load equal to or greater than a minimum weight threshold, or until the ignition
switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first.
 Load Undetermined Occupant Classification Message - Each time the ORC receives an electronic
message from the OCM indicating that a load cannot be determined in the passenger side front seat, the
passenger airbag and seat belt tensioner deployment circuits are deactivated and the passenger airbag
on/off indicator will be illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until the ORC receives an
occupant classification message indicating that the passenger side front seat is empty, that the seat is
occupied by a load equal to or greater than a minimum weight threshold, or until the ignition switch is
turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first.
 Communication Error - If the ORC receives invalid occupant classification messages or no messages
from the OCM, the passenger airbag on/off indicator is illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated
until the ORC receives a valid message from the OCM indicating that the passenger side front seat is
empty, that the seat is occupied by a load equal to or greater than a minimum weight threshold, or until
the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first.
The ORC continually monitors the occupant classification messages from the OCM to decide whether the
passenger airbag and seat belt tensioner deployment circuits should be activated or deactivated. Note that there
may be several seconds of delay between changes in the detected occupant status and passenger airbag on/off
indications. This is a programmed feature of the OCM used to prevent a flashing indicator condition resulting
from the normal shifting of occupant weight on the passenger seat cushion. The ORC then provides the proper
control output to turn the passenger airbag on/off indicator ON or OFF.
The ORC will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for any malfunction it detects. The hard wired circuits
between the passenger airbag on/off indicator and the ORC may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic
tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. However, conventional diagnostic methods
will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the passenger airbag on/off indicator or the electronic controls and
communication between other modules and devices that provide features of the OCS. The most reliable,
efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the passenger airbag on/off indicator or the electronic controls and
communication related to passenger airbag on/off indicator operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool.
SEAT BELT BUCKLE
REMOVAL
FRONT SEAT BELT BUCKLE
wheel, steering column, airbag, occupant classification system, seat belt
further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the SRS.
Failure to take the proper precautions could result in accidental airbag
deployment.
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WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury on vehicles equipped with the Occupant
Classification System (OCS), do not modify the front passenger seat
assembly or center floor console in any way. Do not use any prior year,
subsequent year, secondary or aftermarket seat trim covers. At no time
should any Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) or OCS component be
modified or replaced with any part except those which are specified for
the particular vehicle application . Failure to observe these precautions
could cause an OCS miscalibration condition, which may result in the
passenger airbag failing to deploy when required or deploying when not
required.
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, never strike or drop a seat weight sensor
or the passenger side front seat assembly to which the sensors are
secured as it can damage the sensors or affect their calibration. The seat
weight sensors and the passenger side front seat assembly must be
handled with care to avoid damage to the sensors. Do not sit upon or
place any loads upon a passenger side front seat while it is removed from
its mounts in or outside of the vehicle. If an individual sensor is dropped
or damaged, replace the sensor with a new and unused unit. If a seat has
been dropped during removal or loaded while removed from its mounts,
replace each of the seat weight sensors with new and unused units.
Failure to observe this warning could result in an accidental, incomplete,
or improper passenger side front Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)
component deployment.
Classification System (OCS), any time the passenger side front seat
assembly has been removed or loosened from the vehicle for service of
any vehicle component or system the Occupant Classification System
(OCS) Verification Test must be performed using a diagnostic scan tool
and the Occupant Classification Seat Weight special tool following
reinstallation. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic procedures. Failure to
observe this warning could result in an accidental, incomplete, or
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improper passenger side front Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)

NOTE: The following procedure is for replacement of an ineffective or damaged seat

belt buckle unit. The front seat belt buckle also includes a seat belt tensioner. If
the front seat belt buckle is ineffective or damaged, but the seat belt tensioner
is not deployed, review the recommended procedures for handling non-
deployed supplemental restraints. See HANDLING NON-DEPLOYED
SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINTS. If the seat belt tensioner has been deployed,
review the recommended procedures for service after a supplemental restraint
deployment before removing the unit from the vehicle.
Fig. 63: Identifying Front Seat Belt Buckle And Tensioner Unit, Screw & Pigtail Wire
1. Move the front seat to its middle position for easiest access to the front seat mounting provisions.
3. Remove the front seat from the vehicle. Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner and seat belt switch (driver side only) pigtail wire (3) connector from
the seat wire harness connector located under the seat cushion near the inboard side of the seat.
5. Remove the screw (2) that secures the front seat belt buckle (1) lower anchor and tensioner unit to the
back of the inboard seat cushion frame.
6. Pull the buckle and tensioner unit away from the inboard side of the seat while feeding the pigtail wire
and connector from under the seat out through the clearance hole in the inboard seat cushion frame.
7. Remove the seat belt buckle and tensioner from the front seat as a unit.
SECOND ROW CENTER ANCHOR AND LEFT SEAT BELT BUCKLE
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Fig. 64: Second Row Center And Seat Belt Buckle Components
NOTE: The anchor plates for the left outboard second row seat belt buckle and the
second row center seat belt anchor are secured to each other by a soft metal
grommet as an assembly aid during the manufacturing process and, once
removed, the grommet does not require reinstallation.
1. Remove the four screws (1) that secure the second row seat cushion legs (8) to the rear floor panel (9).
2. Lift the front edge of the seat cushions (10) up against the seat backs for access to the second row center
seat belt and left outboard seat belt buckle anchors (5) on the rear floor panel.
3. Remove the nut (3) that secures the center seat belt and left buckle anchors to the stud (4) on the rear floor
panel.
4. Lift the anchors off of the stud on the rear floor panel.
5. Using an appropriate drill or chisel, carefully remove the soft metal grommet that secures the two anchor
plates to each other.
6. Remove the second row left outboard buckle and anchor from between the seat back and the seat cushion
as a unit.
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SECOND ROW CENTER AND RIGHT SEAT BELT BUCKLES
1. Remove the four screws (1) that secure the second row seat cushion legs (8) to the rear floor panel (9).
2. Lift the front edge of the seat cushions (10) up against the seat backs for access to the forward end of the
right center seat bracket (7).
3. Remove the screw (6) that secures the lower anchor for the center and right seat belt buckle unit (2) to the
inboard side of the right center seat bracket.
4. Remove the center and right seat belt buckle unit from between the second row seat cushions as a unit.
INSTALLATION
SECOND ROW CENTER AND RIGHT SEAT BELT BUCKLES
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1. Position the center and right seat belt buckle unit (2) between the second row seat cushions (10).
2. Position the lower anchor of the seat belt buckle unit to the inboard side of the right center seat bracket
(7). Be certain that the anti-rotation tab on the anchor is engaged in the notch of the bracket.
3. Install and tighten the screw (6) that secures the buckle anchor to the right center seat bracket. Tighten the
screw to 55 N.m (41 ft. lbs.).
4. Lower the front edge of the seat cushions downward and align the seat cushion legs (8) to the holes in the
rear floor panel (9).
5. Install and tighten the four screws (1) that secure the legs to the floor panel. Tighten the screws to 54 N.m
(40 ft. lbs.).
FRONT SEAT BELT BUCKLE
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further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the SRS.
Failure to take the proper precautions could result in accidental airbag
deployment.
required.
or improper passenger side front Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)
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improper passenger side front Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)

belt buckle unit. The front seat belt buckle also includes a seat belt tensioner. If
the front seat belt buckle is ineffective or damaged, but the seat belt tensioner
is not deployed, review the recommended procedures for handling non-
deployed supplemental restraints. See HANDLING NON-DEPLOYED
1. Position the front seat belt buckle and tensioner unit (1) to the inboard seat cushion frame.
2. Insert the seat belt tensioner and seat belt switch (driver side only) pigtail wire (3) connector under the
seat through the clearance hole in the inboard seat cushion frame.
3. Position the front seat belt buckle lower anchor to the back of the inboard seat cushion frame.
4. Install and tighten the screw (2) that secures the front seat belt buckle anchor to the seat cushion frame.
Tighten the screw to 43 N.m (32 ft. lbs.).
5. Reconnect the seat belt buckle tensioner and seat belt switch (driver side only) pigtail wire connector to
the seat wire harness connector located under the seat cushion near the inboard side of the seat.
6. Reinstall the front seat into the vehicle. Refer to INSTALLATION .
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SECOND ROW CENTER ANCHOR AND LEFT SEAT BELT BUCKLE
1. Position the second row left outboard buckle anchor plate (5) between the seat back and the seat cushion
(10).
2. Lower the second row center seat belt and left outboard seat belt buckle anchors over the stud (4) on the
rear floor panel (9).
3. Install and tighten the nut (3) that secures the anchors to the stud on the rear floor panel. Tighten the nut
to 62.5 N.m (46 ft. lbs.).
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4. Lower the front edge of the seat cushions downward and align the seat cushion legs (8) to the holes in the
rear floor panel.
5. Install and tighten the four screws (1) that secure the legs to the floor panel. Tighten the screws to 54 N.m
(40 ft. lbs.).
SEAT BELT AND RETRACTOR
DESCRIPTION
AUTOMATIC LOCKING RETRACTOR
The seat belt retractors used in all seating positions include an inertia-type, emergency locking mechanism as
standard equipment. However, the retractor locking mechanisms for the front passenger and both second row
outboard seating positions are mechanically switchable from an emergency locking retractor to an automatic
locking retractor. The primary function of this feature is to securely accommodate a child seat in any of these
seating positions of the vehicle without the need for a self-cinching seat belt tip half latch plate unit or another
supplemental device that would be required to prevent the seat belt webbing from unwinding freely from the
retractor spool of an inertia-type emergency locking retractor mechanism.
The automatic locking mechanism is integral to the seat belt and retractor unit and is concealed beneath a
molded plastic cover located on one side of the retractor spool. The automatic locking mechanism cannot be
adjusted or repaired and, if ineffective or damaged, the entire seat belt and retractor unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
AUTOMATIC LOCKING RETRACTOR
The locked mode of the automatic locking retractor is engaged and the retractor is switched from operating as a
standard inertia-type emergency locking retractor by first buckling the combination lap and shoulder belt
buckle. Then grasp the shoulder belt and pull all of the webbing out of the retractor. Once all of the belt
webbing is extracted from the spool, the retractor will automatically become engaged in the pre-locked
automatic locking mode and will make a light, audible clicking or ratcheting sound as the shoulder belt is
allowed to retract to confirm that the automatic locking mode is now engaged. Once the automatic locking
mode is engaged, the retractor will remain locked and the belt will remain tight around whatever it is
restraining.
The retractor is returned to standard emergency locking (inertia) mode by unbuckling the combination lap and
shoulder belt buckle and allowing the belt webbing to be almost fully retracted onto the retractor spool. The
emergency locking mode is confirmed by the absence of the light, audible clicking or ratcheting sound as the
belt webbing retracts. This mode will allow the belt to unwind from and wind onto the retractor spool freely
unless and until a predetermined inertia load is sensed, or until the retractor is again switched to the automatic
locking mode.
REMOVAL
SECOND ROW CENTER SEAT BELT AND RETRACTOR
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NOTE: All seat belt retractors except the driver side front and the second row center
retractor include a switchable automatic locking mechanism. See
DESCRIPTION.
Fig. 69: Identifying Second Row Center Seat Belt Retractor, Seat Back Panel, Bezel, Screw & Anchor
Unit
1. Remove the left second row seat belt buckle and center seat belt lower anchor unit (5) from the rear floor
panel and separate them from each other. See REMOVAL.
2. Remove the second row seat from the vehicle as a unit and place it on a suitable work surface. Be certain
to take the proper precautions to prevent the trim cover from receiving cosmetic damage during the
following procedures. Refer to REMOVAL .
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3. Remove the bezel (3), trim cover and foam from the 60 percent seat back panel (2). Refer to
DISASSEMBLY .
4. Remove the screw (4) that secures the second row center seat belt retractor (1) to the seat back panel.
5. Remove the second row center seat belt and retractor unit from the seat back panel.
SECOND ROW OUTBOARD SEAT BELT AND RETRACTOR
DESCRIPTION.
Fig. 70: Identifying Nut, Second Row Seat Back, Outboard Seat Bracket, Stud, Rear Floor Panel, Seat
Cushion & Seat Belt Lower Anchor
1. Reach through the outboard opening between the second row seat back (2) and seat cushion (6) to access
and remove the nut (1) that secures the seat belt lower anchor (7) and the forward end of the outboard seat
bracket (3) to the rear floor panel (5).
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2. Remove the seat belt lower anchor from the stud (4).
Fig. 71: Identifying Inner C-Pillar, Trim, Screws, Second Row Outboard Seat Belt & Retractor
3. Remove the trim (2) from the inner C-pillar (1). Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Remove the screw (3) that secures the seat belt turning loop to the upper C-pillar.
5. Remove the quarter trim panel from the inner lower C-pillar. Refer to REMOVAL .
6. Remove the screw (5) that secures the retractor (6) bracket to the lower C-pillar.
7. Remove the second row outboard seat belt (4) and retractor from the C-pillar as a unit.
FRONT SEAT BELT AND RETRACTOR
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NOTE: The only component of this seat belt and retractor unit that is available for
individual service replacement is the plastic web stop button that prevents the
latch plate from falling to the floor while in the stored position. Refer to the
instructions supplied with the service kit for the proper web stop button
replacement procedures.

belt and retractor unit. The front retractor also includes a seat belt tensioner. If
the front seat belt or retractor is ineffective or damaged, but the seat belt
tensioner is not deployed, review the recommended procedures for handling
non-deployed supplemental restraints. See HANDLING NON-DEPLOYED
DESCRIPTION.
Fig. 72: Identifying Front Seat, Front Seat Belt, Screw & Seat Back Recliner Handle
1. Adjust the front seat (1) to its most forward position for easiest access to the front seat belt (2) lower
anchor and the B-pillar trim.
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Fig. 73: Identifying Seat Back Recliner Handle & Spring Clip
3. Using a trim stick or another suitable wide flat-bladed tool, gently pry the seat back recliner handle (1) to
release the spring clip (2) and remove the handle from the recliner mechanism shaft at the rear of the
outboard seat side shield. Optionally, a manual window regulator handle clip removal tool may be used to
remove the spring clip from the handle before removing the handle from the recliner mechanism shaft.
4. Using a trim stick or another suitable wide flat-bladed tool, gently pry the rear edge of the seat belt anchor
cover to remove it from the outboard seat side shield.
5. Remove the screw that secures the lower anchor to the outboard side of the front seat cushion frame.
Fig. 74: Identifying Height Adjuster, Seat Belt Turning Loop, Upper Trim, Lower Trim, Body
Wire Harness Connector, Lower Retractor & B-Pillar
6. Remove the upper trim (3) from the inside of the B-pillar (7). Refer to REMOVAL .
7. Remove the screw that secures the seat belt turning loop (2) to the height adjuster (1) on the upper B-
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pillar.
8. Remove the seat belt turning loop from the height adjuster.
9. Remove the lower trim (4) from the inside of the B-pillar. Refer to REMOVAL .
10. Disconnect the body wire harness connector (5) from the seat belt tensioner pigtail wire connector.
11. Remove the screw that secures the lower retractor (6) bracket to the B-pillar.
12. Disengage the engagement tab on the upper retractor bracket/seat belt web guide from the engagement
slot in the B-pillar.
13. Remove the front seat belt and retractor from the B-pillar as a unit.
INSTALLATION
SECOND ROW OUTBOARD SEAT BELT AND RETRACTOR
DESCRIPTION.
Fig. 75: Identifying Inner C-Pillar, Trim, Screws, Second Row Outboard Seat Belt & Retractor
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1. Position the second row outboard seat belt (4) and retractor (6) to the lower inner C-pillar (1) as a unit.
2. Install and tighten the screw (5) that secures the retractor bracket to the lower C-pillar. Tighten the screw
to 44.5 N.m (33 ft. lbs.).
3. Reinstall the quarter trim panel onto the lower C-pillar. Refer to INSTALLATION .
4. Position the seat belt turning loop to the upper C-pillar. Be certain the seat belt webbing between the
retractor and the turning loop is not twisted.
5. Install and tighten the screw (3) that secures the seat belt turning loop to the upper C-pillar. Tighten the
screw to 44.5 N.m (33 ft. lbs.).
6. Reinstall the trim (2) onto the upper C-pillar. Refer to INSTALLATION .
Fig. 76: Identifying Nut, Second Row Seat Back, Outboard Seat Bracket, Stud, Rear Floor Panel,
Seat Cushion & Seat Belt Lower Anchor
7. Reach through the outboard opening between the second row seat back (2) and seat cushion (6) to
position the lower seat belt anchor (7) over the stud (4) at the forward end of the outboard seat bracket (3)
on the rear floor panel (5). Be certain the seat belt webbing between the turning loop and the lower anchor
is not twisted.
8. Install and tighten the nut (1) that secures the lower seat belt anchor and the seat bracket to the stud.
Tighten the nut to 62.5 N.m (46 ft. lbs.).
FRONT SEAT BELT AND RETRACTOR
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NOTE: The only component of this seat belt and retractor unit that is available for
individual service replacement is the plastic web stop button that prevents the
latch plate from falling to the floor while in the stored position. Refer to the
instructions supplied with the service kit for the proper web stop button
replacement procedures.

belt and retractor unit. The front retractor also includes a seat belt tensioner. If
the front seat belt or retractor is ineffective or damaged, but the seat belt
tensioner is not deployed, review the recommended procedures for handling
non-deployed supplemental restraints. See HANDLING NON-DEPLOYED
DESCRIPTION.
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Fig. 77: Identifying Height Adjuster, Seat Belt Turning Loop, Upper Trim, Lower Trim, Body Wire
Harness Connector, Lower Retractor & B-Pillar
1. Position the front seat belt and retractor (6) to the inner B-pillar (7) as a unit. Be certain to engage the tab
on the upper retractor bracket/seat belt web guide into the engagement slot in the lower B-pillar.
2. Install and tighten the screw that secures the lower retractor bracket to the B-pillar. Tighten the screw to
44.5 N.m (33 ft. lbs.).
3. Reconnect the body wire harness connector (5) to the seat belt tensioner pigtail wire connector.
4. Reinstall the lower trim (4) onto the inside of the B-pillar. Refer to INSTALLATION .
5. Position the seat belt turning loop (2) onto the height adjuster (1) on the upper B-pillar. Be certain that the
seat belt webbing between the retractor and the turning loop is not twisted.
6. Install and tighten the screw that secures the seat belt turning loop to the height adjuster. Tighten the
7. Reinstall the upper trim (4) onto the inside of the B-pillar. Refer to INSTALLATION .
Fig. 78: Identifying Front Seat, Front Seat Belt, Screw & Seat Back Recliner Handle
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8. Position the front seat belt (2) lower anchor to the outboard side of the front seat (1) cushion frame. Be
certain that the seat belt webbing between the turning loop and the lower anchor is not twisted.
9. Install and tighten the screw (3) that secures the lower anchor to the front seat cushion frame. Tighten the
10. Insert the engagement tab of the seat belt anchor cover into the front of the opening near the rear of the
outboard seat side shield. Using hand pressure, press firmly and evenly on the rear of the cover until it
snaps into place.
11. Align the seat back recliner handle (4) to the recliner mechanism shaft near the rear of the outboard seat
side shield. Using hand pressure, press firmly and evenly on the handle until it snaps into place.
SECOND ROW CENTER SEAT BELT AND RETRACTOR
DESCRIPTION.
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Fig. 79: Identifying Second Row Center Seat Belt Retractor, Seat Back Panel, Bezel, Screw & Anchor
Unit
1. Position the second row center seat belt and retractor unit (1) onto the 60 percent seat back panel (2). Be
certain to engage the tab on the retractor frame into the keyed hole in the back panel.
2. Install and tighten the screw (4) that secures the retractor to the seat back panel. Tighten the screw to 55
N.m (41 ft. lbs.).
3. Reinstall the foam, trim cover and bezel (3) onto the seat back panel. Be certain the seat belt webbing
between the retractor and the bezel is not twisted. Refer to ASSEMBLY .
4. Reinstall the second row seat into the vehicle as a unit. Refer to INSTALLATION .
5. Reinstall the left second row seat belt buckle and center seat belt lower anchor unit (5) onto the rear floor
panel. See INSTALLATION.
SEAT BELT SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
SEAT BELT SWITCH
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Two different seat belt switches are used in the front seat buckles of this vehicle. The driver side uses a
mechanical switch, while the passenger side is actually a Hall Effect-type sensor. The driver side switch is a
small, normally open, single pole, single throw, leaf contact, momentary switch. The driver side seat belt switch
is integral to the buckle of the driver side front seat belt buckle. The passenger side switch consists of a fixed-
position, Hall Effect Integrated Circuit (IC) chip and a small permanent magnet that is integral to the passenger
side front seat belt buckle. The front seat belt buckles (1) are located on a molded plastic scabbard and secured
along with the seat belt buckle tensioner mechanism by a screw (2) near the back of the inboard front seat
cushion frame.
The seat belt switches are connected to the vehicle electrical system through a two-lead pigtail wire (3) and a
four-way connector shared with the buckle tensioner squib circuits on the front seat belt buckle-half, which is
connected to a wire harness connector and take out of the seat wire harness routed beneath the front seat
cushion. On the passenger side, a one kilohm diagnostic resistor is connected in parallel with the IC where the
two pigtail wire leads connect to the IC pins.
The seat belt switches cannot be adjusted or repaired. If ineffective or damaged, the entire front seat belt buckle-
half and tensioner unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
SEAT BELT SWITCH
DRIVER SIDE
The driver side front seat belt switch is a hard wired input to the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM),
which provides electronic driver side seat belt switch status messages to the Electro Mechanical Instrument
Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) over the Controller Area Network (CAN)
data bus. The EMIC controls the seat belt indicator based upon the electronic driver side seat belt switch status
message inputs.
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When the driver side front seat belt tip-half is inserted into the seat belt buckle, the switch closes the path to
ground; and, when the driver side front seat belt tip-half is removed from the seat belt buckle, the switch opens
the ground path. The switch is actuated by the latch mechanism within the seat belt buckle.
The seat belt switch is connected in series between ground and the seat belt switch sense input of the TIPM. The
seat belt switch receives ground at all times through its pigtail wire connection to the seat wire harness from a
take out of the body wire harness. An eyelet terminal connector on the body wire harness ground take out is
secured beneath a ground screw on the left cowl side inner panel, beneath the instrument panel. The TIPM
monitors the condition of the driver seat belt switch circuits and will send an electronic message to illuminate
the airbag indicator in the EMIC then store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for any fault that is detected.
The hard wired circuits between the driver side seat belt switch and the TIPM may be diagnosed using
conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. However,
conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the switch or the electronic
controls or communication between other modules and devices that provide features of the supplemental
restraint system. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the driver side seat belt switch or
the electronic controls and communication related to seat belt switch operation requires the use of a diagnostic
scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
PASSENGER SIDE
The passenger side front seat belt switch is a hard wired input to the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC). A
spring-loaded slide with a small window-like opening is integral to the buckle latch mechanism. When a seat
belt tip-half is inserted and latched into the seat belt buckle, the slide is pushed downward and the window of
the slide exposes the Hall Effect Integrated Circuit (IC) chip within the buckle. The field of the permanent
magnet induces a current within the chip. The chip provides this induced current as an output to the ORC. When
the seat belt is unbuckled, the spring-loaded slide moves upward and shields the IC from the field of the
permanent magnet, causing the output current from the seat belt switch to be reduced.
The passenger side seat belt switch receives a clean ground from the ORC through a hard wired connection, and
the ORC senses the status of the seat belt buckle by monitoring the modulation of voltage through its
connection to the seat belt switch output. The ORC also monitors the condition of the passenger side seat belt
switch circuits and will send an electronic message to illuminate the airbag indicator in the EMIC then store a
DTC for any fault that is detected. However, the ORC is not currently programmed to provide any features in
response to the status of the passenger side seat belt switch input.
The hard wired circuits between the passenger side seat belt switch and the ORC may be diagnosed using
conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the switch or the electronic
controls or communication between other modules and devices that provide features of the supplemental
restraint system. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the passenger side seat belt switch
or the electronic controls and communication related to seat belt switch operation requires the use of a
SEAT BELT TENSIONER
DESCRIPTION
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SEAT BELT TENSIONER
Both front seat belts incorporate dual tensioners: one integral to the retractor, and one integral to the buckle.
RETRACTOR TENSIONER
Fig. 81: Identifying Retractor Units, Molded Plastic Tensioner Housing, Tubular Metal Piston Housing,
Pigtail Wire & Gas Generator
Seat belt retractor tensioners supplement the dual front and side curtain airbag system for all versions of this
vehicle. These tensioners are integral to the front seat belt and retractor units (1), which are secured to the B-
pillars on the right and left sides of the vehicle. The retractors are concealed beneath the molded plastic B-pillar
trim. The seat belt tensioner consists primarily of a molded plastic tensioner housing (2), a tubular metal piston
housing (3), a piston, a short rack gear, a set of pinion gears, a pyrotechnically activated gas generator (5), and a
short pigtail wire (4).
All of these components are located on one side of the retractor spool on the outside of the retractor housing.
The seat belt tensioners are controlled by the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) and are connected to the
vehicle electrical system through dedicated take outs of the body wire harness by keyed and latching molded
plastic connector insulators to ensure a secure connection.
The retractor tensioners cannot be repaired and, if ineffective or damaged, the entire front seat belt and retractor
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unit must be replaced. The retractor tensioners are not intended for reuse and must be replaced following any
front airbag deployment. A locked retractor that will not allow the seat belt webbing to be retracted or extracted
is a sure indication that the seat belt tensioner has been deployed and requires replacement. See REMOVAL.
BUCKLE TENSIONER
Fig. 82: Identifying Molded Plastic Scabbard, Buckle, Pigtail Harnesses, Steel Cylinder Tube & Bracket
Seat belt buckle tensioners supplement the dual front and side curtain airbags for all versions of this vehicle.
These tensioners are integral to the front seat belt buckle units, which are secured by a large screw to the outside
of the inboard seat cushion frames of the right and left front seats. The buckle tensioner consists primarily of a
buckle (2), a molded plastic scabbard (1), a cable and piston, a cable guide and bracket (5), a steel cylinder tube
(4), and a small pyrotechnically activated gas generator.
The buckle tensioners are controlled by the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) and are connected to the
vehicle electrical system through a dedicated take out of the seat wire harness by a keyed and latching yellow
molded plastic connector insulator to ensure a secure connection. The buckle tensioner connector for the driver
side is shared by two pigtail harnesses (3): one two-wire squib pigtail and a second two-wire pigtail for the
integral seat belt switch.
The buckle tensioners cannot be repaired and, if ineffective or damaged, the entire front seat belt buckle unit
must be replaced. If the front airbags have been deployed, the buckle tensioners have also been deployed. The
buckle tensioners are not intended for reuse and must be replaced following any front airbag deployment. See
REMOVAL.
OPERATION
SEAT BELT TENSIONER
The seat belt retractor tensioners and buckle tensioners are deployed by a signal generated by the Occupant
Restraint Controller (ORC) through the driver or passenger seat belt tensioner line 1 and line 2 (or squib)
circuits. When the ORC sends the proper electrical signal to the tensioners, the electrical energy generates
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enough heat to initiate a small pyrotechnic gas generator.
On the retractor tensioner, the gas generator is installed in one end of the tubular metal piston housing, which
contains a piston and a small rack gear. As the gas expands, it pushes the piston and the rack gear through the
tube. The rack gear engages a pinion gear that drives a gear set in the tensioner housing, which rotates the seat
belt retractor spool causing the slack to be removed from the front seat belts.
On the buckle tensioner, the gas generator is installed in one end of the tubular metal piston housing, which
contains a piston secured to one end of a cable. The cable is routed around an integral guide to the buckle,
which is secured to the opposite end of the cable. As the gas expands, it pushes the piston and the cable through
the tube and pulls the buckle downward, causing the slack to be removed from the front seat belts.
Removing excess slack from the front seat belts not only keeps the occupants properly positioned for an airbag
deployment following a frontal impact of the vehicle, but also helps to reduce injuries that the occupants of the
front seat might experience in these situations as a result of a harmful contact with the steering wheel, steering
column, instrument panel or windshield. Also, the seat belt retractor has a torsion bar mechanism that is
designed to deform in order to control the loading being applied to the occupants by the seat belts during a
frontal impact, further reducing the potential for occupant injuries.
The ORC monitors the condition of the seat belt tensioners through circuit resistance, and will illuminate the
airbag indicator in the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) and store a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) for any fault that is detected. Proper diagnosis of the seat belt tensioner gas generator and squib circuits
SEAT BELT TURNING LOOP ADJUSTER
REMOVAL
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Fig. 83: Identifying B-Pillar, Height Adjuster, Seat Belt Turning Loop & Upper Trim
1. Remove the upper trim (4) from the inside of the B-pillar (1). Refer to REMOVAL .
2. Remove the screw that secures the seat belt turning loop (3) to the height adjuster (2) on the upper B-
pillar.
3. Remove the seat belt turning loop from the height adjuster.
4. Remove the screw that secures the upper end of the seat belt turning loop adjuster to the upper B-pillar.
5. Pull the turning loop adjuster upward and away from the B-pillar far enough to disengage the tabs on the
lower end of the adjuster from the keyed holes in the B-pillar.
6. Remove the seat belt turning loop adjuster from the B-pillar.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 84: Identifying B-Pillar, Height Adjuster, Seat Belt Turning Loop & Upper Trim
1. Position the seat belt turning loop adjuster (2) to the inner B-pillar (1).
2. Engage the tabs on the lower end of the adjuster into the keyed holes in the B-pillar.
3. Position the upper end of the turning loop adjuster against the B-pillar.
4. Install and tighten the screw that secures the seat belt turning loop adjuster to the upper B-pillar. Tighten
the screw to 44.5 N.m (33 ft. lbs.).
5. Position the seat belt turning loop (3) onto the height adjuster on the upper B-pillar. Be certain that the
seat belt webbing (5) between the retractor and the turning loop, and between the turning loop and the
lower anchor is not twisted.
6. Install and tighten the screw that secures the seat belt turning loop to the height adjuster. Tighten the
7. Reinstall the upper trim (4) onto the inside of the B-pillar. Refer to INSTALLATION .
SEAT WEIGHT SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
SEAT WEIGHT SENSOR
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Fig. 85: Identifying Sensor Mounting Flange, Threaded Mounting Stud, Stamped Metal Cage, Sensor
Body & Receptacle
The seat weight sensors are strain gauge-type units. The electronic elements of the sensor are encased within the
sensor body (5) and the sensor body is located within a stamped metal cage (3). Four sensors are used in the
Occupant Classification System (OCS). The sensors are located below the seat cushion between the seat
adjuster track and the seat track riser at each corner of the passenger side front seat.
A threaded mounting stud (2) on each sensor body is secured by a nut to the seat track riser, and two nuts secure
each sensor mounting flange (1) to two studs integral to the front and rear of the inboard and outboard
passenger side lower seat adjuster tracks. A molded connector receptacle (4) integral to each sensor body is
oriented towards the center of the seat and is connected to the vehicle electrical system through a dedicated
connector and take out of the passenger seat wire harness beneath the seat cushion.
The seat weight sensors cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if ineffective or damaged, the entire sensor must be
replaced.
OPERATION
SEAT WEIGHT SENSOR
The seat weight sensor units are designed to sense the relative weight of a load applied to the passenger side
front seat, which provides a logic input to the microprocessor of the Occupant Classification Module (OCM).
When any load is applied to the seat the load is transmitted through the sensor mounting stud to the sensor body
(strain gauge) of each sensor, causing a change of electrical resistance through the strain gauge. These changes
in resistance within the internal sensor circuitry change the sensor output voltage.
Each weight sensor receives a nominal five volts and a ground through parallel hard wired circuits from the
OCM. The OCM then monitors the output voltage of each sensor on dedicated hard wired data communication
circuits. The OCM also monitors the condition of the sensor circuits and will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) for any fault that is detected, then send messages to the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) to
illuminate the airbag indicator in the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab
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Compartment Node/CCN).
The hard wired circuits between the seat weight sensor and the OCM may be diagnosed using conventional
methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the seat weight sensors or the electronic controls and
communication between other modules and devices that provide features of the Occupant Classification System
(OCS). The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the seat weight sensors or the electronic
controls and communication related to seat weight sensor operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool.
REMOVAL
SEAT WEIGHT SENSOR
required.
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or improper passenger side front supplemental restraint deployment.
Fig. 86: Strain Gauge Alignment Tool (Special Tool No. 9689) Used To Secure Body Of Seat Weight
Sensor
2. Remove the passenger side front seat from the vehicle. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. From the underside of the seat, disconnect the seat wire harness from the connector receptacles of each of
the four weight sensors.
4. Disconnect the seat wire harness from the connector receptacle of the seat track position sensor located on
the inboard side of the inboard seat adjuster upper track near the rear of the seat track.
CAUTION: A strain gauge alignment tool (Special Tool No. 9689) (2) must be
used to secure the body of the seat weight sensor (1) from any
rotation during removal or installation of the nut that secures the
sensor stud to the seat track riser. In addition, the sensor fasteners
should always be serviced using hand tools ONLY, and not electric
or pneumatic power tools. Failure to observe these cautions may
result in irreversible sensor damage requiring sensor replacement.
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Fig. 87: Identifying Center Fork & Tool Support Yoke

5. Install the strain gauge alignment tool (Special Tool 9689) on the sensors by inserting the center fork (1)
of the tool between the flats on each side of the sensor body and inside of the cage, then seating the tool
support yoke (2) firmly against the outside of the sensor cage.
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Fig. 88: Identifying Passenger Side Front Seat Adjuster, Seat Weight Sensor, Nuts & Seat Track
Risers
6. With the alignment tool securing the body of the seat weight sensor (2), remove the nut (4) that secures
the sensor stud to the seat track riser (5).
7. Transfer the special tool to each weight sensor, one at a time, and remove the nuts that secure the sensor
studs to the seat track risers until all four nuts have been removed.
8. Carefully separate the seat track risers from the seat weight sensor studs.
9. Remove the two nuts (3) that secure the sensor to the studs on the lower track of the seat adjuster (1).
10. Remove the seat weight sensor from the seat adjuster.
INSTALLATION
SEAT WEIGHT SENSOR
required.
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or improper passenger side front supplemental restraint deployment.
improper passenger side front supplemental restraint deployment.
Fig. 89: Identifying Passenger Side Front Seat Adjuster, Seat Weight Sensor, Nuts & Seat Track Risers
1. Position the seat weight sensor (2) over the studs on the lower track of the passenger side front seat
adjuster (1).
2. Install and tighten the two nuts (3) that secure the sensor to the studs. Tighten the nuts to 28 N.m (21 ft.
lbs.).
3. Carefully position the seat track risers (5) over all four seat weight sensor studs.
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Fig. 90: Strain Gauge Alignment Tool (Special Tool No. 9689) Used To Secure Body Of Seat Weight
Sensor
CAUTION: A strain gauge alignment tool (Special Tool No. 9689) (2) must be
used to secure the body of the seat weight sensor (1) from any
rotation during removal or installation of the nut that secures the
sensor stud to the seat track riser. In addition, the sensor fasteners
should always be serviced using hand tools ONLY, and not electric
or pneumatic power tools. Failure to observe these cautions may
result in irreversible sensor damage requiring sensor replacement.
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Fig. 91: Identifying Center Fork & Tool Support Yoke

4. Install the strain gauge alignment tool (Special Tool 9689) on the sensors by inserting the center fork (1)
of the tool between the flats on each side of the sensor body and inside of the cage, then seating the tool
support yoke (2) firmly against the outside of the sensor cage.
5. With the alignment tool securing the body of the seat weight sensor, install and tighten the nut that
secures the sensor stud to the seat track riser. Tighten the nut to 44.5 N.m (33 ft. lbs.).
6. Transfer the special tool to each weight sensor, one at a time, then install and tighten the nuts that secure
each of the four sensor studs to the seat track risers until all four nuts have been installed and tightened.
7. From the underside of the seat, reconnect the seat wire harness to the connector receptacle of the seat
track position sensor located on the inboard side of the inboard seat adjuster upper track near the rear of
the seat track.
8. Reconnect the seat wire harness to the connector receptacles of each of the four weight sensors.
9. Reinstall the passenger side front seat into the vehicle. Refer to INSTALLATION .
11. Following successful completion of the SRS verification test procedure, perform the Occupant
Classification System (OCS) Verification Test using a diagnostic scan tool and the Occupant
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Classification Seat Weight special tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic procedures.
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2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Audio/Video Systems - Electrical Diagnostics - Nitro
2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT
Audio/Video Systems - Electrical Diagnostics - Nitro

DTC Description
B1401 FRONT LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
B1402 FRONT LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
B1403 FRONT LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
B1405 FRONT RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
B1406 FRONT RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
B1407 FRONT RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
B1409 REAR LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
B140A REAR LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
B140B REAR LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
B140D REAR RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
B140E REAR RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
B140F REAR RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
B1420 AUDIO CASSETTE ERROR/INOPERABLE CASSETTE
B1421 AUDIO CD READ ERROR/INOPERABLE DISC
B1422 AUDIO DVD READ ERROR/INOPERABLE DISC
B1423 VES DVD READ ERROR/INOPERABLE DISC
B1424 IMPROPER DVD-WRONG REGION
B1429 RADIO DISPLAY HIGH TEMPERATURE
B142A RADIO UNIT HIGH TEMPERATURE
B142C VES VIDEO SCREEN DISCONNECTED
B142D AUDIO ANTENNA NOT CONNECTED
B142E GPS ANTENNA NOT CONNECTED
B142F SATELLITE RADIO ANTENNA NOT CONNECTED
B1460 CHANNEL 1 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
B1461 CHANNEL 1 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
B1462 CHANNEL 1 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
B1463 CHANNEL 1 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
B1464 CHANNEL 1 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT SHORTED TOGETHER
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B146A CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE

B146B CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
B146C CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
B146D CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
B146E CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT SHORTED TOGETHER
B146F CHANNEL 4 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
B147A CHANNEL 6 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
B147B CHANNEL 6 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
B147C CHANNEL 6 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
B147D CHANNEL 6 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT SHORTED TOGETHER
B2222 SATELLITE RADIO RECEIVER INTERNAL
B222B VEHICLE ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM INTERNAL
U0019 CAN INTERIOR BUS(+)/(-) CIRCUIT
U0020 CAN INTERIOR BUS OFF PERFORMANCE
U0151 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH OCCUPANT RESTRAINT CONTROLLER
U0154 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH OCCUPANT CLASSIFICATION MODULE
U0184 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH RADIO
U0186 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH AUDIO AMPLIFIER
U0195 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH SDAR
U0197 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH HANDS FREE MODULE
U0199 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH DRIVERS DOOR MODULE
U0200 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH PASSENGER DOOR MODULE
AUDIO/VIDEO SYSTEMS - ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS

B1401-FRONT LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
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Fig. 1: Front Left Audio Speaker Output Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
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With the radio on.

Set Condition:
When the output circuit is LOW for more than three seconds.
Possible Causes
(X201) LEFT FRONT SPEAKERS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(X291) LEFT FRONT SPEAKERS (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
SPEAKER
Diagnostic Test
1) INTERMITTENT CONDITION
With the scan tool, clear all Radio DTC's.
Turn the Radio on.
With the scan tool, read the DTC information.
Does the scan tool read: B1401-FRONT LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
The condition that caused this symptom is currently not present. Check for an intermittent
condition by inspecting the related wiring harness for chafed, pierced, pinched, and partially broken
wires. Also, inspect the related connectors for broken, bent, pushed out, spread, corroded, or
contaminated terminals. Repair as necessary.
2) (X201) LEFT FRONT SPEAKERS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
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Fig. 2: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X201) Left Front Speakers (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Radio harness connector.
Disconnect the Front Left Audio Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X201) Left Front Speakers (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X201) Left Front Speakers (+) circuit for a short to ground condition.
No
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Go to 3).
3) (X291) LEFT FRONT SPEAKERS (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
Fig. 3: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X291) Left Front Speakers (-) Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X291) Left Front Speakers (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X291) Left Front Speakers (-) circuit for a short to ground condition.
No
Go to 4).
4) SPEAKER
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Connect the Radio harness connector.
With the Front Left Audio Speaker still disconnected, turn the ignition on.
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B1401-FRONT LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Replace the Front Left Audio Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Test Complete.
B1402-FRONT LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
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Possible Causes
(X201) LEFT FRONT SPEAKERS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(X291) LEFT FRONT SPEAKERS (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
SPEAKER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the ignition on, then off, and then on again.
With the scan tool, read Radio DTCs.
Does the scan tool display active: B1402-FRONT LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (X201) LEFT FRONT SPEAKERS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
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Fig. 5: Measuring For Voltage On (X201) Left Front Speakers (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Left Front Audio Speaker harness connector.
Measure for voltage on the (X201) Left Front Speakers (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X201) Left Front Speakers (+) circuit for a short to voltage.
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No
Go to 3).
3) (X291) LEFT FRONT SPEAKERS (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 6: Measuring For Voltage On (X291) Left Front Speakers (-) Circuit
Measure for voltage on the (X291) Left Front Speakers (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X291) Left Front Speakers (-) circuit for a short to voltage.
No
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Replace the Radio in accordance with the service information.

B1403-FRONT LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
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When Monitored:
With the radio on.
Set Condition:
When the output circuit is open for more than three seconds. The radio will not set the fault if the radio
confirms an amplifier is on the BUS.
Possible Causes
(X201) LEFT FRONT SPEAKERS (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
(X291) LEFT FRONT SPEAKERS (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
SPEAKER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B1403-FRONT LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (X201) LEFT FRONT SPEAKERS (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
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Fig. 8: Measuring Resistance Of (X201) Left Front Speakers (+) Circuit Between Radio And
Speaker
Disconnect the Front Left Audio Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (X201) Left Front Speakers (+) circuit between the Radio and the Speaker.
Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms for each circuit?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
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Repair the (X201) Left Front Speakers (+) circuit for an open condition.
3) (X291) LEFT FRONT SPEAKERS (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
Fig. 9: Measuring Resistance Of (X291) Left Front Speakers (-) Circuit Between Radio And
Speaker
Measure the resistance of the (X291) Left Front Speakers (-) circuit between the Radio and the Speaker.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (X291) Left Front Speakers (-) circuit for an open condition.
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4) SPEAKER
With the Front Left Audio Speaker still disconnected, turn the ignition on.
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B1403-FRONT LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN?
Yes
Replace the Front Left Audio Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Test Complete.
B1405-FRONT RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
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Fig. 10: Front Right Audio Speaker Output Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
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With the radio on.

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X202) RIGHT FRONT SPEAKERS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(X292) RIGHT FRONT SPEAKERS (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
SPEAKER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B1405-FRONT RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (X202) RIGHT FRONT SPEAKERS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
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Fig. 11: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X202) Right Front Speakers (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Front Right Audio Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X202) Right Front Speakers (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X202) Right Front Speakers (+) circuit for a short to ground condition.
No
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Go to 3).
3) (X292) RIGHT FRONT SPEAKERS (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
Fig. 12: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X292) Right Front Speakers (-) Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X292) Right Front Speakers (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X292) Right Front Speakers (-) circuit for a short to ground condition.
No
Go to 4).
4) SPEAKER
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With the Front Right Audio Speaker still disconnected, turn the ignition on.
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B1405-FRONT RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Replace the Front Right Audio Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Test Complete.
B1406-FRONT RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
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Possible Causes
(X202) RIGHT FRONT SPEAKERS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(X292) RIGHT FRONT SPEAKERS (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
SPEAKER
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B1406-FRONT RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (X202) RIGHT FRONT SPEAKERS (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
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Fig. 14: Measuring For Voltage On (X202) Right Front Speakers (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Right Front Audio Speaker harness connector.
Measure for voltage on the (X202) Right Front Speakers (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X202) Right Front Speakers (+) circuit for a short to voltage.
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No
Go to 3).
3) (X292) RIGHT FRONT SPEAKERS (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 15: Measuring For Voltage On (X292) Right Front Speakers (-) Circuit
Measure for voltage on the (X292) Right Front Speakers (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X292) Right Front Speakers (-) circuit for a short to voltage.
No
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B1407-FRONT RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
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When Monitored:
With the radio on.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X202) RIGHT FRONT SPEAKERS (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
(X292) RIGHT FRONT SPEAKERS (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
SPEAKER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B1407-FRONT RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (X202) RIGHT FRONT SPEAKERS (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
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Fig. 17: Measuring Resistance Of (X202) Right Front Speakers (+) Circuit Between Radio And
Speaker
Disconnect the Front Right Audio Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (X202) Right Front Speakers (+) circuit between the Radio and the Speaker.
Yes
Go to 3).
No
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Repair the (X202) Right Front Speakers (+) circuit for an open condition.
3) (X292) RIGHT FRONT SPEAKERS (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
Fig. 18: Measuring Resistance Of (X292) Right Front Speakers (-) Circuit Between Radio And
Speaker
Measure the resistance of the (X292) Right Front Speakers (-) circuit between the Radio and the Speaker.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (X292) Right Front Speakers (-) circuit for an open condition.
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4) SPEAKER
With the Front Right Audio Speaker still disconnected, turn the ignition on.
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B1407-FRONT RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN?
Yes
Replace the Front Right Audio Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Test Complete.
B1409-REAR LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
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Fig. 19: Rear Left Audio Speaker Output Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
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With the radio on.

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X205) LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(X295) LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
SPEAKER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B1409-REAR LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (X205) LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
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Fig. 20: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X205) Left Rear Speaker (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Rear Left Audio Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X205) Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X205) Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit for a short to ground condition.
No
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Go to 3).
3) (X295) LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
Fig. 21: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X295) Left Rear Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X295) Left Rear Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X295) Left Rear Speaker (-) circuit for a short to ground condition.
No
Go to 4).
4) SPEAKER
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With the Rear Left Audio Speaker still disconnected, turn the ignition on.
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B1409-REAR LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Replace the Rear Left Audio Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Test Complete.
B140A-REAR LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
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Microsoft
Possible Causes
(X205) LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(X295) LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
SPEAKER
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B140A-REAR LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (X205) LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
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Fig. 23: Measuring For Voltage On (X205) Left Rear Speaker (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Left Rear Audio Speaker harness connector.
Measure for voltage on the (X205) Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X205) Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit for a short to voltage.
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No
Go to 3).
3) (X295) LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 24: Measuring For Voltage On (X295) Left Rear Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure for voltage on the (X295) Left Rear Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X295) Left Rear Speaker (-) circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Microsoft

B140B-REAR LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
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When Monitored:
With the radio on.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X205) LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
(X295) LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
SPEAKER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B140B-REAR LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (X205) LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
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Fig. 26: Measuring Resistance Of (X205) Left Rear Speaker (+) Circuit Between Radio And
Speaker
Disconnect the Rear Left Audio Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (X205) Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit between the Radio and the Speaker.
Yes
Go to 3).
No
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Repair the (X205) Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit for an open condition.
3) (X295) LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
Fig. 27: Measuring Resistance Of (X295) Left Rear Speaker (-) Circuit Between Radio And
Speaker
Measure the resistance of the (X295) Left Rear Speaker (-) circuit between the Radio and the Speaker.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (X295) Left Rear Speaker (-) circuit for an open condition.
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4) SPEAKER
With the Rear Left Audio Speaker still disconnected, turn the ignition on.
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B140B-REAR LEFT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN?
Yes
Replace the Rear Left Audio Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Test Complete.
B140D-REAR RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
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Fig. 28: Rear Right Audio Speaker Output Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
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With the radio on.

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X206) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(X296) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
SPEAKER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B140D-REAR RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (X206) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
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Fig. 29: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X206) Right Rear Speaker (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Rear Right Audio Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X206) Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X206) Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit for a short to ground condition.
No
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Go to 3).
3) (X296) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
Fig. 30: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X296) Right Rear Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X296) Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X296) Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit for a short to ground condition.
No
Go to 4).
4) SPEAKER
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With the Rear Right Audio Speaker still disconnected, turn the ignition on.
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B140D-REAR RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Replace the Rear Right Audio Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Test Complete.
B140E-REAR RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
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Microsoft
Possible Causes
(X206) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(X296) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
SPEAKER
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B140E-REAR RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (X206) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
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Fig. 32: Measuring For Voltage On (X206) Right Rear Speaker (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Right Rear Audio Speaker harness connector.
Measure for voltage on the (X206) Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X206) Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit for a short to voltage.
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No
Go to 3).
3) (X296) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 33: Measuring For Voltage On (X296) Right Rear Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure for voltage on the (X296) Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X296) Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Microsoft

B140F-REAR RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
Microsoft

When Monitored:
With the radio on.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X206) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
(X296) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
SPEAKER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B140F-REAR RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (X206) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
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Fig. 35: Measuring Resistance Of (X206) Right Rear Speaker (+) Circuit Between Radio And
Speaker
Disconnect the Rear Right Audio Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (X206) Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit between the Radio and the Speaker.
Yes
Go to 3).
No
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Repair the (X206) Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit for an open condition.
3) (X296) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
Fig. 36: Measuring Resistance Of (X296) Right Rear Speaker (-) Circuit Between Radio And
Speaker
Measure the resistance of the (X296) Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit between the Radio and the Speaker.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (X296) Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit for an open condition.
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4) SPEAKER
With the Rear Right Audio Speaker still disconnected, turn the ignition on.
Turn the Radio on.
Does the scan tool read: B140F-REAR RIGHT AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN?
Yes
Replace the Rear Right Audio Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Test Complete.
B1420-AUDIO CASSETTE ERROR/INOPERABLE CASSETTE
When Monitored:
Continuously with the ignition on and the Radio Cassette player turned on.
Set Condition:
The code will set when a damaged Cassette is placed in the Cassette Player.
Possible Causes
CASSETTE READ FAILURE
Diagnostic Test
1) RADIO
Replace the problem Cassette with a good, clean, undamaged, cassette.
Turn the Radio cassette player on.

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With the scan tool, read DTC's.
Does the scan tool display active: B1420-AUDIO CASSETTE ERROR/INOPERABLE

CASSETTE?
Yes
Eject the inoperative cassette and replace the Radio/Cassette Player in accordance with the Service
Information.
No
Test Complete.
B1421-AUDIO CD READ ERROR/INOPERABLE DISC
When Monitored:
Continuously with the ignition on and the radio CD player turned on.
Set Condition:
The code will set if a CD that is not formatted as a music CD is installed in the radio CD player.
Possible Causes
CD READ FAILURE
Diagnostic Test
1) RADIO
Replace the problem CD with a good, clean, unscratched, music CD.
Turn the radio CD player on.
Does the can tool display: B1421 AUDIO CD READ ERROR/INOPERABLE DISC?
Yes
Eject the inoperative CD and replace the CD in accordance with the service information.
No
Microsoft
Test Complete.
B1422-AUDIO DVD READ ERROR/INOPERABLE DISC
When Monitored:
Continuously with the ignition on and the DVD player turned on.
Set Condition:
The code will set if a DVD that is not formatted as a DVD is installed in the DVD player.
Possible Causes
DVD READ FAILURE
Diagnostic Test
1) DVD PLAYER
Replace the problem DVD with a good, clean, unscratched DVD.
Turn the DVD player on.
Does the scan tool display active: B1422-AUDIO DVD READ ERROR/INOPERABLE DISC?
Yes
Eject the inoperative DVD and replace the DVD in accordance with the Service Information.
No
Test Complete.
B1423-VES DVD READ ERROR/INOPERABLE DISC
When Monitored:
Microsoft
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
DVD READ FAILURE
Diagnostic Test
1) DVD PLAYER
Does the scan tool display active: B1423-VES DVD READ ERROR/INOPERABLE DISC?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
B1424-IMPROPER DVD-WRONG REGION
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
DVD READ FAILURE
Diagnostic Test
1) DVD PLAYER
Microsoft
Does the scan tool display active: B1424-IMPROPER DVD-WRONG REGION?
Yes
No
Test Complete.
B1429-RADIO DISPLAY HIGH TEMPERATURE
When Monitored:
Continuously with the ignition and Radio on.
Set Condition:
The code will set if the temperature inside the Radio is above +65°C (+145°F)
Possible Causes
HIGH TEMPERATURE FAILURE
Diagnostic Test
1) VERIFY THAT DTC B1429-RADIO DISPLAY HIGH TEMPERATURE IS ACTIVE.
With the scan tool, clear all DTC's.
Start the engine and allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature.
If the vehicle has been in the hot sunlight or extreme cold, move the vehicle indoors and open the doors to
allow the inside temperature to stabilize.
The Radio should operate between -23°C and +65°C (-10°F and +145°F).

Microsoft
Does the scan tool display active: B1429-RADIO DISPLAY HIGH TEMPERATURE?
Yes
Replace the Radio in accordance with the Service Information.

No
Test Complete.
B142A-RADIO UNIT HIGH TEMPERATURE
When Monitored:
Continuously with the ignition and Radio on.
Set Condition:
The code will set if the temperature inside the Radio is above +65°C (+145°F)
Possible Causes
HIGH TEMPERATURE FAILURE
Diagnostic Test
1) VERIFY THAT DTC B142A-RADIO UNIT HIGH TEMPERATURE IS ACTIVE.
With the scan tool, erase the DTC's.
Start the engine and allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature.
If the vehicle has been in the hot sunlight or extreme cold, move the vehicle indoors and open the doors to
allow the inside temperature to stabilize.
The Radio should operate between -23°C and +65°C (-10°F and +145°F).
Does the scan tool display active: B142A-RADIO UNIT HIGH TEMPERATURE?
Yes

Microsoft
No
Test Complete.
B142C-VES VIDEO SCREEN DISCONNECTED
When Monitored:
With the ignition on and the Radio in Video mode.
Set Condition:
With the Radio in Video mode, the Radio does not detect a VES Video Screen.
Possible Causes
BAD VES VIDEO SCREEN CONNECTION
RADIO
Diagnostic Test
1) TEST VES VIDEO SCREEN CONNECTION
Disconnect the VES Video Screen connector.
Inspect the VES Video Screen connection.
Was the VES Video Screen connection clean and secure?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Repair the VES Video Screen connection as needed.

2) VES VIDEO SCREEN
Refer to the Audio System in the Service Information and test the VES Video Screen in accordance with
the Service Procedure.
Microsoft
Is the Antenna ok?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Repair or replace the VES Video Screen in accordance with the Service Information.
3) RADIO
NOTE: Reconnect all previously disconnected components.
NOTE: Move vehicle outside approximately 30ft (9.14m) from any structure.
Turn the Radio on.
With the scan tool, clear all DTC's, put the Radio in mode.
Does the scan tool display active: B142C-VES VIDEO SCREEN DISCONNECTED?
Yes

No
Test Complete.
B142D-AUDIO ANTENNA NOT CONNECTED
When Monitored:
With the ignition on and the Radio in seek mode.
Set Condition:
Microsoft
With the Radio in seek mode for two loops around the band. The Radio does not detect an Antenna
connection or does not receive a Radio station signal.
Possible Causes
BAD ANTENNA CONNECTION
RADIO
Diagnostic Test
1) TEST ANTENNA
Disconnect the Radio Antenna connector.
Inspect the Radio Antenna connection.
Was the Antenna connection clean and secure?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Repair the Antenna connection as needed.

2) ANTENNA
Refer to the Audio System in the Service Information and test the antenna in accordance with the Service
Procedure.
Is the Antenna ok?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Repair or replace the Antenna assembly in accordance with the Service Information.
3) RADIO

Microsoft
Turn the Radio on.
With the scan tool, clear all DTC's, put the Radio in seek up and down mode for 2 loops around the band
cycle before proceeding.
Does the scan tool display active: B142D-AUDIO ANTENNA NOT CONNECTED?
Yes

No
Test Complete.
B142E-GPS ANTENNA NOT CONNECTED
When Monitored:
With the ignition on and the Radio in Navigation mode.
Set Condition:
With the Radio in Navigation mode. The Radio does not detect an Antenna connection or does not
receive a Navigation (GPS) signal.
Possible Causes
RADIO
ANTENNA
Diagnostic Test
1) TEST ANTENNA
Microsoft
Disconnect the GPS Antenna connector.
Inspect the GPS Antenna connection.
Yes
Go to 2).
No

2) ANTENNA
Refer to the Audio System in the Service Information and test the antenna in accordance with the Service
Procedure.
Is the Antenna ok?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Repair or replace the Antenna assembly in accordance with the Service Information.
3) RADIO
Turn the ignition and Radio on.
With the scan tool, clear all DTC's and operate the Navigation system.
Does the scan tool display active: B142E-GPS ANTENNA NOT CONNECTED?
Yes
Microsoft

No
Test Complete.
B142F-SATELLITE RADIO ANTENNA NOT CONNECTED
When Monitored:
With the ignition on and the Satellite Radio in seek mode.
Set Condition:
With the radio in seek mode for two loops around the band. The radio does not detect an antenna
connection or does not receive a radio satellite signal.
Possible Causes
SATELLITE RADIO RECEIVER
Diagnostic Test
1) TEST ANTENNA
Disconnect the Satellite Radio Antenna connector.
Inspect the Satellite Radio Antenna connection.
Yes
Go to 2).
No

2) SATELLITE RADIO ANTENNA
Refer to the AUDIO/VIDEO-SERVICE INFORMATION and test the antenna in accordance with the
service procedure.
Microsoft
Is the Antenna ok?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Repair or replace the Antenna assembly as necessary.

3) SATELLITE RADIO RECEIVER
Turn the ignition and radio on.
With the scan tool, erase the audio DTC's, put the satellite radio in seek up and down mode for 2 loops
around the band cycle before proceeding.
With the scan tool, read the audio DTC's.
Did this DTC reset?
Yes
Replace the Satellite Radio Receiver in accordance with the service information.
No
Test Complete.
B1430-SATELLITE RADIO ANTENNA INTERNAL PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
The Satellite Radio Antenna detects a software checksum test failure.
Possible Causes
Microsoft
SATELLITE RADIO ANTENNA
Diagnostic Test
1) REPLACE THE SATELLITE RADIO ANTENNA
When this code is set, the Satellite Radio Antenna must be replaced.
Repair
Replace the Satellite Radio Antenna in accordance with the Service Information. Refer to
STANDARD PROCEDURE .
B1460-CHANNEL 1 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
This DTC will set if a DC offset occurs on the output channel, the amplifier shall set a DTC after a
maturity rate of 5 ±1 sec.
Possible Causes
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR AN INTERMITTENT CONDITION
With the scan tool, read Amplifier DTCs.
Does the scan tool display active: B1460-CHANNEL 1 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
PERFORMANCE?
Yes
Replace the amplifier in accordance with the service information.

No
Microsoft

B1461-CHANNEL 1 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
Fig. 37: Channel 1 Audio Speaker Output Circuit Schematic

Microsoft
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
The amplifier detects a shorted to ground condition on the speaker output circuit.
Possible Causes
(X201) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(X291) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
LEFT FRONT I/P SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE (X201) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT
TO GROUND
Microsoft
Fig. 38: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X201) Amplified Left Front I/P Speaker (+)
Circuit
Disconnect the Amplifier C2 harness connector.
Disconnect the Left I/P Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X201) Amplified Left Front I/P Speaker (+) circuit.
Is the resistance below 10K ohms?
Yes
Repair the (X201) Amplified Left Front I/P Speaker (+) circuit for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X291) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT
TO GROUND
Fig. 39: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X291) Amplified Left Front I/P Speaker (-)
Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X291) Amplified Left Front I/P Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X291) Amplified Left Front I/P Speaker (-) for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 4).
4) CHECK OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT I/P SPEAKER
Fig. 40: Measuring Resistance Of Speaker Circuit Between Amplifier C2 Harness Connector And
Ground
Reconnect and reinstall the Left Front I/P Speaker.
Measure the resistance of the speaker circuit between the Amplifier C2 harness connector and ground.
Yes
Replace the Left Front I/P Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Replace the Amplifier in accordance with the service information.

B1462-CHANNEL 1 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft

Set Condition:
The amplifier detects a short to battery condition on the output circuit.
Possible Causes
(X201) AMPLIFIED LEFT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
(X291) AMPLIFIED LEFT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FOR VOLTAGE ON THE (X201) AMPLIFIED LEFT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT
Microsoft
Fig. 42: Measuring For Voltage On (X201) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Amplified Left I/P Speaker harness connector.
Measure for voltage on the (X201) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X201) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (+) circuit for a short to voltage.
Microsoft
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK FOR VOLTAGE ON THE (X291) AMPLIFIED LEFT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT
Fig. 43: Measuring For Voltage On (X291) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure for voltage on the (X291) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X291) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (-) circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Microsoft

B1463-CHANNEL 1 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Amplifier BUS wake-up. Amplifier reset with scan tool.
Set Condition:
The amplifier detects an open condition on the speaker output circuit.
Possible Causes
(X201) AMPLIFIED LEFT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
(X291) AMPLIFIED LEFT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
LEFT FRONT I/P SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the radio on.
With the scan tool, erase Amplifier DTCs.
With the scan tool, reset the amplifier.
OPEN?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE LEFT FRONT I/P SPEAKER
Microsoft
Fig. 45: Measuring Voltage Of Amplified Left I/P Speaker Circuits In Amplified Left I/P Speaker
Harness Connector
Disconnect the Left I/P Speaker harness connector.
Turn the radio on and turn the volume to mid level.
With a voltmeter set to read in A/C voltage, measure the voltage of the Amplified Left I/P Speaker
circuits in the Amplified Left I/P Speaker harness connector.
Is the voltage present greater than 1 volt?
Yes
Replace the Amplified Left I/P Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X201) AMPLIFIED LEFT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 46: Measuring Resistance Of (X201) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (+) Circuit Between Amplifier
C2 Harness Connector And Amplified Left I/P Speaker Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (X201) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (+) circuit between the Amplifier C2
harness connector and the Amplified Left I/P Speaker harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (X201) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (+) circuit for an open.
Microsoft

4) CHECK THE (X291) AMPLIFIED LEFT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Fig. 47: Measuring Resistance Of (X291) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (-) Circuit Between Amplifier
C2 Harness Connector And Amplified Left I/P Speaker Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (X291) amplified Left I/P Speaker (-) circuit between the Amplifier C2
harness connector and the Amplified Left I/P Speaker harness connector.
Yes

No
Microsoft
Repair the (X291) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (-) circuit for an open.
B1464-CHANNEL 1 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT SHORTED TOGETHER
Microsoft

When Monitored:
With the ignition on. Radio volume at 25 or higher.
Set Condition:
The amplifier detects that the output circuits are shorted together.
Possible Causes
(X201) AMPLIFIED LEFT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE (X291) AMPLIFIED
LEFT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT
AMPLIFIED LEFT I/P SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the radio on.
Turn the volume level to 25.
SHORTED TOGETHER?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED LEFT I/P SPEAKER
Microsoft
Disconnect the Amplified Left I/P Speaker.
Measure the resistance of the speaker between the two terminals.
Is the resistance of the speaker less than 1 ohm?
Yes
Replace the Amplified Left I/P Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X201) AMPLIFIED LEFT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT, AND THE (X291)
AMPLIFIED LEFT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUITS FOR A SHORT TOGETHER
Microsoft
Fig. 49: Measuring Resistance Between (X201) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (+) Circuit And (X291)
Amplified Left I/P Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure the resistance between the (X201) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (+) circuit, and the (X291)
Amplified Left I/P Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X201) Amplified Left I/P Speaker (+) circuit, and the (X291) Amplified Left I/P
Speaker (-) circuit for a short together.
No

When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
With the scan tool, read amplifier DTCs.
PERFORMANCE?
Microsoft
Yes

No
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X202) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(X292) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
RIGHT FRONT I/P SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE (X202) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT FOR A
SHORT TO GROUND
Microsoft
Fig. 51: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X202) Amplified Right Front I/P Speaker (+)
Circuit
Disconnect the Right Front I/P Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X202) Amplified Right Front I/P Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X202) Amplified Right Front I/P Speaker (+) circuit for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X292) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT FOR A
SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 52: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X292) Amplified Right Front I/P Speaker (-)
Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X292) Amplified Right Front I/P Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X292) Amplified Right Front I/P Speaker (-) for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 4).
4) CHECK OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT I/P SPEAKER
Ground
Reconnect and reinstall the Right Front I/P Speaker.
Yes
Replace the Right Front I/P Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No

Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X202) AMPLIFIED RIGHT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
(X292) AMPLIFIED RIGHT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FOR VOLTAGE ON THE (X202) AMPLIFIED RIGHT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT
Microsoft
Fig. 55: Measuring For Voltage On (X202) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Amplified Right I/P Speaker harness connector.
Measure for voltage on the (X202) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X202) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (+) circuit for a short to voltage.
Microsoft
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK FOR VOLTAGE ON THE (X292) AMPLIFIED RIGHT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT
Measure for voltage on the (X292) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X292) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (-) circuit for a short to voltage.
No

Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X202) AMPLIFIED RIGHT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
(X292) AMPLIFIED RIGHT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
RIGHT I/P SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the radio on.
OPEN?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE RIGHT FRONT I/P SPEAKER
Microsoft
Fig. 57: Measuring Voltage Of Amplified Right I/P Speaker Circuits In Amplified Right I/P
Speaker Harness Connector
Disconnect the Right I/P Speaker harness connector.
With a voltmeter set to read in A/C voltage, measure the voltage of the Amplified Right I/P Speaker
circuits in the Amplified Right I/P Speaker harness connector.
Yes
Replace the Amplified Right I/P Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X202) AMPLIFIED RIGHT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 58: Measuring Resistance Of (X202) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (+) Circuit Between
Amplifier C2 Harness Connector And Amplified Right I/P Speaker Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (X202) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (+) circuit between the Amplifier C2
harness connector and the Amplified Right I/P Speaker harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (X202) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (+) circuit for an open.
Microsoft

4) CHECK THE (X292) AMPLIFIED RIGHT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Fig. 59: Measuring Resistance Of (X292) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (-) Circuit Between
Amplifier C2 Harness Connector And Amplified Right I/P Speaker Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (X292) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (-) circuit between the Amplifier C2
harness connector and the Amplified Right I/P Speaker harness connector.
Yes

No
Microsoft
Repair the (X292) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (-) circuit for an open.
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X202) AMPLIFIED RIGHT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE (X292) AMPLIFIED
RIGHT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT
AMPLIFIED RIGHT I/P SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the radio on.
SHORTED TOGETHER?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED RIGHT I/P SPEAKER
Microsoft
Disconnect the Amplified Right I/P Speaker.
Yes
Replace the Amplified Right I/P Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X202) AMPLIFIED RIGHT I/P SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT, AND THE (X292)
AMPLIFIED RIGHT I/P SPEAKER (-) CIRCUITS FOR A SHORT TOGETHER
Microsoft
Fig. 61: Measuring Resistance Between (X202) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (+) Circuit And (X292)
Amplified Right I/P Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure the resistance between the (X202) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (+) circuit, and the (X292)
Amplified Right I/P Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X202) Amplified Right I/P Speaker (+) circuit, and the (X292) Amplified Right I/P
No

B146A-CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B146A-CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
PERFORMANCE?
Microsoft
Yes

No
B146B-CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X209) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(X299) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
LEFT FRONT SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B146B-CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE (X209) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT
TO GROUND
Microsoft
Fig. 63: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X209) Amplified Left Front Speaker (+)
Circuit
Disconnect the Left Front Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X209) Amplified Left Front Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X209) Amplified Left Front Speaker (+) circuit for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X299) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO
GROUND
Fig. 64: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X299) Amplified Left Front Speaker (-)
Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X299) Amplified Left Front Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X299) Amplified Left Front Speaker (-) for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 4).
4) CHECK OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER
Ground
Reconnect and reinstall the Left Front Speaker.
Yes
Replace the Left Front Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No

B146C-CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X209) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
(X299) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B146C-CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FOR VOLTAGE ON THE (X209) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (+)
CIRCUIT
Microsoft
Fig. 67: Measuring For Voltage On (X209) Amplified Left Front Speaker (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Amplified Left Front Speaker harness connector.
Measure for voltage on the (X209) Amplified Left Front Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X209) Amplified Left Front Speaker (+) circuit for a short to voltage.
Microsoft
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK FOR VOLTAGE ON THE (X299) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (-)
CIRCUIT
Fig. 68: Measuring For Voltage On (X299) Amplified Left Front Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure for voltage on the (X299) Amplified Left Front Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X299) Amplified Left Front Speaker (-) circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Microsoft

B146D-CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X209) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
(X299) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the radio on.
Does the scan tool display active: B146D-CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
OPEN?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER
Microsoft
Fig. 70: Measuring Voltage Of Amplified Left Front Speaker Circuits In Amplified Left Front
Disconnect the Amplified Left Front Speaker harness connector.
With a voltmeter set to read in A/C voltage, measure the voltage of the Amplified Left Front Speaker
circuits in the Amplified Left Front Speaker harness connector.
Yes
Replace the Amplified Left Front Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X209) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 71: Measuring Resistance Of (X209) Amplified Left Front Speaker (+) Circuit Between
Amplifier C1 Harness Connector And Amplified Left Front Speaker Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (X209) Amplified Left Front Speaker (+) circuit between the Amplifier C1
harness connector and the Amplified Left Front Speaker harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (X209) Amplified Left Front Speaker (+) circuit for an open.
Microsoft

4) CHECK THE (X299) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Fig. 72: Measuring Resistance Of (X299) Amplified Left Front Speaker (-) Circuit Between
Amplifier C1 Harness Connector And Amplified Left Front Speaker Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (X299) Amplified Left Front Speaker (-) circuit between the Amplifier C1
harness connector and the Amplified Left Front Speaker harness connector.
Yes

No
Microsoft
Repair the (X299) Amplified Left Front Speaker (-) circuit for an open.
B146E-CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT SHORTED TOGETHER
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X209) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE (X299)
AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT
AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the radio on.
Does the scan tool display active: B146E-CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
SHORTED TOGETHER?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER
Microsoft
Disconnect the Amplified Left Front Speaker.
Yes
Replace the Amplified Left Front Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X209) AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT, AND THE (X299)
AMPLIFIED LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUITS FOR A SHORT TOGETHER
Microsoft
Fig. 74: Measuring Resistance Between (X209) Amplified Left Front Speaker (+) Circuit And
(X299) Amplified Left Front Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure the resistance between the (X209) Amplified Left Front Speaker (+) circuit, and the (X299)
Amplified Left Front Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X209) Amplified Left Front Speaker (+) circuit, and the (X299) Amplified Left Front
No

B146F-CHANNEL 4 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
With the scan tool, read amplifier DTCs.
Does the scan tool display active: B146F-CHANNEL 4 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
PERFORMANCE?
Microsoft
Yes

No
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X208) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(X298) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE (X208) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT
TO GROUND
Microsoft
Fig. 76: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X208) Amplified Right Front Speaker (+)
Circuit
Disconnect the Right Front Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X208) Amplified Right Front Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X208) Amplified Right Front Speaker (+) circuit for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X298) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT
TO GROUND
Fig. 77: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X298) Amplified Right Front Speaker (-)
Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X298) Amplified Right Front Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X298) Amplified Right Front Speaker (-) for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 4).
4) CHECK OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER
Ground
Reconnect and reinstall the Right Front Speaker.
Yes
Replace the Right Front Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No

Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X208) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
(X298) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FOR VOLTAGE ON THE (X208) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (+)
CIRCUIT
Microsoft
Fig. 80: Measuring For Voltage On (X208) Amplified Right Front Speaker (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Amplified Right Front Speaker harness connector.
Measure for voltage on the (X208) Amplified Right Front Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X208) Amplified Right Front Speaker (+) circuit for a short to voltage.
Microsoft
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK FOR VOLTAGE ON THE (X298) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (-)
CIRCUIT
Fig. 81: Measuring For Voltage On (X298) Amplified Right Front Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure for voltage on the (X298) Amplified Right Front Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X298) Amplified Right Front Speaker (-) circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Microsoft

Microsoft

When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X208) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
(X298) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the radio on.
OPEN?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER
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Fig. 83: Measuring Voltage Of Amplified Right Front Speaker Circuits In Amplified Right Front
Disconnect the Amplified Right Front Speaker harness connector.
With a voltmeter set to read in A/C voltage, measure the voltage of the Amplified Right Front Speaker
circuits in the Amplified Right Front Speaker harness connector.
Yes
Replace the Amplified Right Front Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X208) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 84: Measuring Resistance Of (X208) Amplified Right Front Speaker (+) Circuit Between
Amplifier C1 Harness Connector And Amplified Right Front Speaker Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (X208) Amplified Right Front Speaker (+) circuit between the Amplifier C1
harness connector and the Amplified Right Front Speaker harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (X208) Amplified Right Front Speaker (+) circuit for an open.
Microsoft

4) CHECK THE (X298) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Fig. 85: Measuring Resistance Of (X298) Amplified Right Front Speaker (-) Circuit Between
Amplifier C1 Harness Connector And Amplified Right Front Speaker Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (X298) Amplified Right Front Speaker (-) circuit between the Amplifier C1
harness connector and the Amplified Right Front Speaker harness connector.
Yes

No
Microsoft
Repair the (X298) Amplified Right Front Speaker (-) circuit for an open.
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X208) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE (X298)
AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT
AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the radio on.
SHORTED TOGETHER?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER
Microsoft
Disconnect the Amplified Right Front Speaker.
Yes
Replace the Amplified Right Front Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X208) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT, AND THE
(X298) AMPLIFIED RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (-) CIRCUITS FOR A SHORT TOGETHER
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Fig. 87: Measuring Resistance Between (X208) Amplified Right Front Speaker (+) Circuit And
(X298) Amplified Right Front Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure the resistance between the (X208) Amplified Right Front Speaker (+) circuit, and the (X298)
Amplified Right Front Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X208) Amplified Right Front Speaker (+) circuit, and the (X298) Amplified Right
Front Speaker (-) circuit for a short together.
No

When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
PERFORMANCE?
Microsoft
Yes

No
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X205) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(X295) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
LEFT REAR SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE (X205) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO
GROUND
Microsoft
Fig. 89: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X205) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+)
Circuit
Disconnect the Left Rear Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X205) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X205) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X295) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO
GROUND
Fig. 90: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X295) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-)
Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X295) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X295) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-) for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 4).
4) CHECK OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER
Ground
Reconnect and reinstall the Left Rear Speaker.
Yes
Replace the Left Rear Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No

Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X205) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
(X295) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FOR VOLTAGE ON THE (X205) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+)
CIRCUIT
Microsoft
Fig. 93: Measuring For Voltage On (X205) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Amplified Left Rear Speaker harness connector.
Measure for voltage on the (X205) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X205) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit for a short to voltage.
Microsoft
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK FOR VOLTAGE ON THE (X295) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT
Fig. 94: Measuring For Voltage On (X295) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure for voltage on the (X295) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X295) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-) circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Microsoft

Microsoft

When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X205) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
(X295) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
LEFT REAR SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the radio on.
OPEN?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER
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Fig. 96: Measuring Voltage Of Amplified Left Rear Speaker Circuits In Amplified Left Rear
Disconnect the Left Rear Speaker harness connector.
With a voltmeter set to read in A/C voltage, measure the voltage of the Amplified Left Rear Speaker
circuits in the Amplified Left Rear Speaker harness connector.
Yes
Replace the Amplified Left Rear Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X205) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 97: Measuring Resistance Of (X205) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+) Circuit Between
Amplifier C2 Harness Connector And Amplified Left Rear Speaker Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (X205) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit between the Amplifier C2
harness connector and the Amplified Left Rear Speaker harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (X205) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit for an open.
Microsoft

4) CHECK THE (X295) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Fig. 98: Measuring Resistance Of (X295) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-) Circuit Between
Amplifier C2 Harness Connector And Amplified Left Rear Speaker Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (X295) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-) circuit between the Amplifier C2
harness connector and the Amplified Left Rear Speaker harness connector.
Yes

No
Microsoft
Repair the (X295) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-) circuit for an open.
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X205) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE (X295) AMPLIFIED
LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT
AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the radio on.
SHORTED TOGETHER?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER
Microsoft
Disconnect the Amplified Left Rear Speaker.
Yes
Replace the Amplified Left Rear Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X205) AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT, AND THE (X295)
AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUITS FOR A SHORT TOGETHER
Microsoft
Fig. 100: Measuring Resistance Between (X205) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+) Circuit And
(X295) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure the resistance between the (X205) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit, and the (X295)
Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X205) Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+) circuit, and the (X295) Amplified Left Rear
No

When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
PERFORMANCE?
Microsoft
Yes

No
B147A-CHANNEL 6 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT LOW
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X206) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(X296) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
RIGHT REAR SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B147A-CHANNEL 6 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE (X206) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT
TO GROUND
Microsoft
Fig. 102: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X206) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+)
Circuit
Disconnect the Right Rear Speaker harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X206) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X206) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X296) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO
GROUND
Fig. 103: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (X296) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-)
Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (X296) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X296) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-) for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 4).
4) CHECK OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER
Ground
Reconnect and reinstall the Right Rear Speaker.
Yes
Replace the Right Rear Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No

B147B-CHANNEL 6 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft

Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X206) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
(X296) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B147B-CHANNEL 6 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FOR VOLTAGE ON THE (X206) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+)
CIRCUIT
Microsoft
Fig. 106: Measuring For Voltage On (X206) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+) Circuit
Disconnect the Amplified Right Rear Speaker harness connector.
Measure for voltage on the (X206) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X206) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit for a short to voltage.
Microsoft
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK FOR VOLTAGE ON THE (X296) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-)
CIRCUIT
Fig. 107: Measuring For Voltage On (X296) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure for voltage on the (X296) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X296) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Microsoft

B147C-CHANNEL 6 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X206) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
(X296) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
RIGHT REAR SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Turn the radio on.
Does the scan tool display active: B147C-CHANNEL 6 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
OPEN?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE RIGHT REAR SPEAKER
Microsoft
Fig. 109: Measuring Voltage Of Amplified Right Rear Speaker Circuits In Amplified Right Rear
Disconnect the Right Rear Speaker harness connector.
With a voltmeter set to read in A/C voltage, measure the voltage of the Amplified Right Rear Speaker
circuits in the Amplified Right Rear Speaker harness connector.
Yes
Replace the Amplified Right Rear Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X206) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 110: Measuring Resistance Of (X206) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+) Circuit Between
Amplifier C2 Harness Connector And Amplified Right Rear Speaker Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (X206) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit between the Amplifier C2
harness connector and the Amplified Right Rear Speaker harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (X206) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit for an open.
Microsoft

4) CHECK THE (X296) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Fig. 111: Measuring Resistance Of (X296) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-) Circuit Between
Amplifier C2 Harness Connector And Amplified Right Rear Speaker Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (X296) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit between the Amplifier C2
harness connector and the Amplified Right Rear Speaker harness connector.
Yes

No
Microsoft
Repair the (X296) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit for an open.
B147D-CHANNEL 6 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT SHORTED TOGETHER
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(X206) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE (X296)
AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT
AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
With the scan tool, clear Amplifier DTCs.
Turn the radio on.
Does the scan tool display active: B147D-CHANNEL 6 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT CIRCUIT
SHORTED TOGETHER?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER
Microsoft
Disconnect the Amplified Right Rear Speaker.
Yes
Replace the Amplified Right Rear Speaker in accordance with the service information.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK THE (X206) AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT, AND THE (X296)
AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUITS FOR A SHORT TOGETHER
Microsoft
Fig. 113: Measuring Resistance Between (X206) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+) Circuit And
(X296) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-) Circuit
Measure the resistance between the (X206) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit, and the (X296)
Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit.
Yes
Repair the (X206) Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit, and the (X296) Amplified Right Rear
No

B2222-SATELLITE RADIO RECEIVER INTERNAL
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
The Satellite Radio Receiver detects a software checksum test failure.
Possible Causes
SATELLITE RADIO RECEIVER
Diagnostic Test
1) REPLACE THE SATELLITE RADIO RECEIVER
When this code is set, the Satellite Radio must be replaced.
Repair
Replace the Satellite Radio Receiver in accordance with the Service Information. Refer to
Microsoft
B222B-VEHICLE ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM INTERNAL
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
The DVD Player detects an internal failure.
Possible Causes
DVD PLAYER
Diagnostic Test
1) DVD PLAYER
If DTC: B222B-VEHICLE ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM INTERNAL is active, view repair.
Repair
Replace the DVD Player in accordance with the service information.

U0019-CAN INTERIOR BUS(+)/(-) CIRCUIT
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Whenever the CAN INTERIOR BUS (+) or INTERIOR BUS (-) circuit is open, shorted to voltage or
shorted to ground, this code will set.
Possible Causes
CAN INTERIOR BUS DTCs IN THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE
(D264) CAN INTERIOR BUS (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
(D265) CAN INTERIOR BUS (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test

Microsoft
Does the scan tool display: U0019-CAN INTERIOR BUS CIRCUIT?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE DTCs
With the scan tool, read Totally Integrated Power Module DTCs
Does the scan tool display any CAN INTERIOR BUS DTCs - ACTIVE?
Yes
Refer to the symptom list for problems related to Communication in the ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULES - ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS article .
No
Go to 3).
3) CAN INTERIOR BUS (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (D265) CAN INTERIOR BUS (+) circuit between the Totally Integrated
Power Module C7 harness connector and the Amplifier C1 harness connector.
Microsoft
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the CAN INTERIOR BUS (+) circuit for an open.

4) CAN INTERIOR BUS (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (D264) CAN INTERIOR BUS (-) circuit between the Totally Integrated
Yes

No
Repair the CAN INTERIOR BUS (-) circuit for an open.

U0020-CAN INTERIOR BUS OFF PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Whenever the CAN INTERIOR BUS (+) or INTERIOR BUS (-) circuit is open, shorted to voltage or
shorted to ground, this code will set.
Possible Causes
CAN INTERIOR BUS DTCs IN THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE
(D264) CAN INTERIOR BUS (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
(D265) CAN INTERIOR BUS (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
AMPLIFIER
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Does the scan tool display: U0020-CAN INTERIOR BUS OFF PERFORMANCE?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FRONT CONTROL MODULE DTCs
With the scan tool, read Totally Integrated Power Module DTCs.
Does the scan tool display any CAN INTERIOR BUS DTCs - ACTIVE?
Yes
Refer to the symptom list for problems related to Communication in the ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULES - ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS article .
No
Go to 3).
3) CAN INTERIOR BUS (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (D265) CAN INTERIOR BUS (+) circuit between the Totally Integrated
Microsoft
Power module C7 harness connector and the Amplifier C1 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the CAN INTERIOR BUS (+) circuit for an open.

4) CAN INTERIOR BUS (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (D264) CAN INTERIOR BUS (-) circuit between the Totally Integrated
Yes

No
Repair the CAN INTERIOR BUS (-) circuit for an open.

U0151-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH OCCUPANT RESTRAINT CONTROLLER
Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING for the diagnostic test procedure.
U0154-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH OCCUPANT CLASSIFICATION MODULE
U0184-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH RADIO
Microsoft
U0186-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH AUDIO AMPLIFIER
U0195-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH SDAR
U0197-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH HANDS FREE MODULE
U0199-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH DRIVERS DOOR MODULE
U0200-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH PASSENGER DOOR MODULE
Microsoft
2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Audio/Video - Service Information - Nitro
Audio/Video - Service Information - Nitro
AUDIO/VIDEO-SERVICE INFORMATION
DESCRIPTION
AUDIO
Several combinations of radio receivers and speaker systems are offered on this model. The audio system uses
an ignition switched source of battery current so that the system will only operate when the ignition switch is in
the RUN or ACCESSORY positions.
The audio system includes the following components:
 Antenna
 Power amplifier
 Radio noise suppression components
 Radio receiver
 Remote radio switches (if equipped)
 Speakers
 Subwoofer
Certain functions and features of the audio system rely upon resources shared with other electronic modules in
the vehicle over the Controlled Area Network (CAN). The data bus network allows the sharing of sensor
information. For diagnosis of these electronic modules or of the data bus network, the use of a scan tool and the
proper Diagnostic Procedures information is recommended.
OPERATION
OPERATION
The audio system components are designed to provide audio entertainment and information through the
reception, tuning and amplification of locally broadcast radio signals in both the Amplitude Modulating (AM)
and Frequency Modulating (FM) commercial frequency ranges.
The audio system components operate on battery current received through a fuse in the Totally Integrated
Power Module (TIPM) on a fused ignition switch output (RUN-ACC) circuit so that the system will only
operate when the ignition switch is in the Run or Accessory positions.
On vehicles that are equipped with the optional remote radio switches, the Cab Compartment Node (CCN)
receives hard wired resistor multiplexed inputs from the remote radio switches. The programming in the CCN
allows it to process those inputs and send the proper messages to the radio receiver over the Controlled Area
Network (CAN) to control the radio volume up or down, station seek up or down, preset station advance, and
Microsoft
mode advance functions.
Refer to the owner's manual for more information on the features, use and operation of each of the available
audio systems.
AUDIO
AUDIO SYSTEM
Any diagnosis of the Audio system should begin with the use of scan tool. For information on the use of
the scan tool, refer to the appropriate Diagnostic information.
Refer to the appropriate wiring information.
WARNING: Disable the airbag system before attempting any steering wheel, steering
column, seat belt tensioner, side airbag, or instrument panel component
cable, then wait two minutes for the airbag system capacitor to discharge
before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way
to disable the airbag system. Failure to take the proper precautions could
result in accidental airbag deployment and possible personal injury.
AUDIO SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE

NO AUDIO 1. Fuse faulty. 1. Check radio fuse and Ignition-Off Draw
(IOD) fuse in Totally Integrated Power
Module (TIPM). Replace fuses, if required.
- 2. Radio connector faulty. 2. Check for loose or corroded radio
connector. Repair, if required.
- 3. Wiring faulty. 3. Check for shorted or open wires. Repair
wiring, if required.
- 4. Radio ground faulty. 4. Check for continuity between radio chassis
and a known good ground. There should be
continuity. Repair ground, if required.
- 5. Speakers faulty. 5. Replace speaker as necessary.
- 6. Radio faulty. 6. Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service
Information.
NO RADIO DISPLAY 1. Fuse faulty. 1. Check radio fuse and Ignition-Off Draw
(IOD) fuse in Junction Block (JB). Replace
fuses, if required.
- 2. Radio connector faulty. 2. Check for loose or corroded radio
connector. Repair, if required.
- 3. Wiring faulty. 3. Check for battery voltage at radio
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connector. Repair wiring, if required.

- 4. Radio ground faulty. 4. Check for continuity between radio chassis
- 5. Radio faulty. 5. Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service
Information.
POOR RADIO 1. Antenna faulty. 1. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
RECEPTION 2. Radio ground faulty. 2. Check for continuity between radio chassis
3. Radio noise suppression 3. Repair or replace ground strap as necessary.
faulty.
4. Radio faulty. 4. Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service
Information.
SOUND DISTORTION 1. Door trim panel loose or 1. Inspect door trim panel and correct as
(VIBRATION FROM missing fasteners. necessary. Replace any missing fasteners.
SPEAKER AREA,
BUZZING - HUMMING)
- 2. Water shield loose or 2. Inspect water shield and adjust as required.
misaligned.
- 3. Items placed in door trim 3. Remove items from door trim panel. Ensure
panel map pockets vibrating that vibration is no longer present.
or moving from side to side.
NO COMPACT DISC/DVD 1. Faulty CD/DVD. 1. Insert known good CD/DVD and test
OPERATION operation.
2. Foreign material on 2. Clean CD/DVD and test operation.
CD/DVD.
3. Condensation on 3. Allow temperature of vehicle interior to
CD/DVD or optics. stabilize and test operation.
4. Faulty CD/DVD player. 4. Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service
Information.
MANUAL DISC EJECT-NAVIGATION RADIO
1. Ensure all fuses are installed in the vehicle to operate accessories.

2. Turn ignition to ACC and power on radio.
3. Press OPEN/CLOSE button on radio and verify that disc will not eject automatically.
4. If disc will not eject automatically, use the following combination of buttons to manually eject disc:
 With display open press and hold NAV button on right side.
 Press SEEK UP and SEEK DOWN at the same time on left side.
5. Remove the disc from the radio.
AMPLIFIER
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REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 1: Removing Amplifier


2. Remove the rear quarter trim panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the mounting fasteners.
4. Disconnect the electrical connectors and remove the amplifier.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
Fig. 2: Installing Amplifier

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1. Connect the electrical connectors and install the amplifier.

2. Install the amplifier mounting fasteners.
3. Install the rear quarter trim panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
ANTENNA BODY & CABLE
DESCRIPTION
ANTENNA BODY AND CABLE
DOMESTIC
All models feature a roof-mounted active mast antenna. This is a combination antenna that receives both
AM/FM and satellite digital audio. The antenna cables are routed along the left side of the under the headliner,
down the A-pillar to the instrument panel. For antenna removal. See REMOVAL. For antenna installation . See
INSTALLATION.
OPERATION
The antenna body and cable connects the antenna mast to the radio. The radio antenna is an electromagnetic
circuit component used to capture radio frequency signals that are broadcast by local commercial radio stations
in both the Amplitude Modulating (AM) and Frequency Modulating (FM) frequency ranges. These
electromagnetic radio frequency signals induce small electrical modulations into the antenna as they move past
the mast. The antenna body transfers the weak electromagnetic radio waves induced into the antenna into the
center conductor of the flexible primary antenna coaxial cable. The braided outer shield of the antenna coaxial
cable is grounded through both the antenna body and the radio chassis, effectively shielding the radio waves as
they are conducted to the radio. The radio then tunes and amplifies the weak radio signals into stronger
electrical signals in order to operate the audio system speakers.
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Fig. 3: Antenna Diagnose Tests

The following four tests are used to diagnose the antenna with an ohmmeter:
Test 1 - Mast to ground test

Test 2 - Tip-of-mast to tip-of-conductor test
Test 3 - Body ground to battery ground test
Test 4 - Body ground to antenna coaxial cable shield test.
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The ohmmeter test lead connections for each test are shown in the illustration.
NOTE: This model has a two-piece antenna coaxial cable. Tests 2 and 4 must be
conducted in two steps to isolate an antenna cable problem. First, test the
primary antenna cable (integral to the antenna body and cable) from the coaxial
cable connector behind the right side kick panel to the antenna body. Then, test
the secondary antenna cable (instrument panel antenna cable) from the coaxial
cable connector behind the right side kick panel to the coaxial cable connector
at the radio.
TEST 1
Test 1 determines if the antenna mast is insulated from ground. Proceed as follows:
1. Disconnect and isolate the antenna coaxial cable connector behind the right side kick panel.
2. Touch one ohmmeter test lead to the tip of the antenna mast. Touch the other test lead to known ground.
Check the ohmmeter reading for continuity.
3. There should be no continuity. If OK, go to Test 2. If not OK, replace the faulty antenna body and cable.
TEST 2
Test 2 checks the antenna conductor components for an open circuit. This test should be performed first on the
entire antenna circuit, from the antenna mast to the center conductor of the coaxial cable connector at the radio.
If an open circuit is detected, each of the three antenna conductor components (antenna mast, antenna body and
cable, instrument panel antenna cable) should be isolated and tested individually to locate the exact component
that is the source of the open circuit. To begin this test, proceed as follows:
1. Disconnect the instrument panel antenna cable coaxial connector from the back of the radio.
2. Touch one ohmmeter test lead to the tip of the antenna mast. Touch the other test lead to the center
conductor pin of the instrument panel antenna cable coaxial connector for the radio. Check the ohmmeter
reading for continuity.
3. There should be continuity. The ohmmeter should register only a fraction of an ohm resistance. High or
infinite resistance indicates a damaged or open antenna conductor. If OK, go to Test 3. If not OK, isolate
and test each of the individual antenna conductor components. Replace only the faulty antenna conductor
component.
TEST 3
Test 3 checks the condition of the vehicle body ground connection. To begin this test, proceed as follows:
1. This test must be performed with the battery positive cable disconnected from the battery. Disconnect and
isolate both battery cables, negative cable first.
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3. Touch one ohmmeter test lead to a good clean ground point on the vehicle fender. Touch the other test
lead to the battery negative terminal post. Check the ohmmeter reading for continuity.
4. There should be continuity. The ohmmeter should register less than one ohm resistance. High or infinite
resistance indicates a loose, corroded, or damaged connection between the battery negative terminal and
the vehicle body. If OK, go to Test 4. If not OK, check the battery negative cable connection to the
vehicle body and the radio noise suppression ground strap connections to the engine and the vehicle body
for being loose or corroded. Clean or tighten these connections as required.
TEST 4
Test 4 checks the condition of the connection between the antenna coaxial cable shield and the vehicle body
ground as follows:
1. Disconnect and isolate the antenna coaxial cable connector behind the right side kick panel.
2. Touch one ohmmeter test lead to a good clean ground point on the vehicle fender. Touch the other test
lead to the outer crimp on the antenna coaxial cable connector. Check the ohmmeter reading for
continuity.
3. There should be continuity. The ohmmeter should register less than one ohm resistance. High or infinite
resistance indicates a loose, corroded, or damaged connection between the antenna body and the vehicle
body or between the antenna body and the antenna coaxial cable shield. If not OK, clean the antenna body
to fender mating surfaces and tighten the antenna cap nut to specifications.
4. Check the resistance again with an ohmmeter. If the resistance is still more then one ohm, replace the
faulty antenna body and cable.
REMOVAL

2. Remove the headliner. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
4. Remove the routing clips and remove the cable.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the cable and routing clips.

2. Connect the electrical connectors.
3. Install the headliner. Refer to INSTALLATION .
ANTENNA-SATELLITE
OPERATION
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ANTENNA - SATELLITE RADIO
The satellite receiver is housed within the radio and is no longer a separate module. The satellite radio antenna
receives signals from orbiting satellites and sends these signals to the radio. The satellite radio antenna must
have open space in which to operate. Items carried on the roof, parking inside etc. can have an effect on the
antenna's ability to receive signals.
REMOVAL
Fig. 4: Removing Antenna


2. Lower the rear section of the headliner to gain access the antenna, ensuring that the headliner does not
crease. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the mounting fastener.
4. Disconnect the electrical connectors and remove the antenna.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 5: Installing Antenna


2. Install the antenna and mounting fastener.
3. Install the headliner. Refer to INSTALLATION .
CABLE-INSTRUMENT PANEL ANTENNA
REMOVAL
INSTRUMENT PANEL ANTENNA CABLE

2. Remove the instrument panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
CAUTION: Pulling the antenna cable straight out of the radio without pulling on
the locking antenna connector could damage the cable or radio.
3. Disconnect the antenna cable from radio by pulling the locking antenna connector (2) away from radio.
4. Disengage each of the retainers that secure the cable to the instrument panel.
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5. Remove the cable from the instrument panel.
INSTALLATION
INSTRUMENT PANEL ANTENNA CABLE
1. Position the instrument panel antenna cable onto the instrument panel.
2. Engage each of the retainers that secure the cable to the back side of the instrument panel.
3. Connect cable to radio.
4. Install instrument panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
RADIO
DESCRIPTION
RADIO
NOTE: The USB protective door can be serviced separately and does not require the
replacement of the entire radio assembly.
RADIO
Available radios include:
 AM/FM Stereo Radio w/CD/MP3 Audio player and AUX jack with and without Satellite Radio (RES).
 AM/FM Stereo Radio w/6-CD/DVD player and AUX jack with and without Satellite Radio (REQ).
 6.5" Integrated Touch Screen AM/FM Stereo Radio, Satellite Radio, Single Disc CD/DVD player.
(CD/DVD/MP3/WMA Audio, DVD Video) w/ Full Map Navigation with GPS Antenna and Real Time
Traffic (RER).
All radio receivers can communicate on the Controlled Area Network (CAN).
OPERATION
RADIO
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The radio receiver operates only when the ignition switch is in the ON or ACCESSORY positions.
For complete circuit diagrams, refer to the appropriate wiring information.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
RADIO BACKUP
The radio hard drive (HDD) can be backed up to save customer data in the event that a radio replacement is
required. This procedure can only be done with all radios with a hard disk drive. All other radios do not have a
HDD.
1. Turn the ignition to RUN, engine OFF.

2. Power on the external HDD.
3. Connect the external HDD to the radio using the USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable. The radio display will
change to the "Manage My Files" screen.
4. Connect the scan tool and preform the following steps to place the radio into "Dealership Mode":
ECU View
Radio
Misc. Functions
Service Mode
Start
Next
5. Follow the on screen instructions on the radio to back up the radio HDD.
REMOVAL
RADIO
NOTE: The USB protective door can be serviced separately and does not require the
replacement of the entire radio assembly.
NOTE: REQ and RET radios only must be put into "Transportation Mode" before
removal. With Ignition in RUN or ACCESSORY, press SET and SCAN
simultaneously until the radio displays "TRANSPORTATION" on the display or
for 5 seconds.

2. Remove the instrument panel center trim panel.
3. Remove the radio mounting fasteners.
CAUTION: Pulling the antenna cable straight out of the radio without pulling on
the locking antenna connector could damage the cable or radio.
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4. Disconnect the antenna cable by pulling the locking antenna connector away from the radio.
5. Disconnect the electrical harness connector(s).
6. Remove radio from instrument panel.
INSTALLATION
RADIO
1. Connect the wire harness connector(s).

2. Connect the antenna cable.
3. Install the radio to the instrument panel.
4. Install and tighten the radio mounting fasteners.
5. Install the instrument panel center trim panel.
RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION COMPONENTS
DESCRIPTION
Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) and Electro Magnetic Interference (EMI) can be produced by any on-board
or external source of electromagnetic energy. These electromagnetic energy sources can radiate electromagnetic
signals through the air, or conduct them through the vehicle electrical system.
When the audio system converts RFI or EMI to an audible acoustic wave form, it is referred to as radio noise.
This undesirable radio noise is generally manifested in the form of "buzzing," "hissing," "popping," "clicking,"
"crackling," and/or "whirring" sounds. In most cases, RFI and EMI radio noise can be suppressed using a
combination of vehicle and component grounding, filtering and shielding techniques. This vehicle is equipped
with factory-installed radio noise suppression devices that were designed to minimize exposure to typical
sources of RFI and EMI; thereby, minimizing radio noise complaints.
Radio noise suppression is accomplished primarily through circuitry or devices that are integral to the factory-
installed radios, audio power amplifiers and other on-board electrical components such as generators, wiper
motors, blower motors, and fuel pumps that have been found to be potential sources of RFI or EMI. External
radio noise suppression devices that are used on this vehicle to control RFI or EMI, and can be serviced, include
the following:
 Engine-to-body ground strap - This length of braided ground strap has an eyelet terminal connector
crimped to each end. One end is secured to the engine cylinder head(s). The other is secured to the
plenum.
 Resistor-type spark plugs - This type of spark plug has an internal resistor connected in series between
the spark plug terminal and the center electrode to help reduce the production of electromagnetic radiation
that can result in radio noise.
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OPERATION
There are two common strategies that can be used to suppress Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) and Electro
Magnetic Interference (EMI) radio noise. The first suppression strategy involves preventing the production of
RFI and EMI electromagnetic signals at their sources. The second suppression strategy involves preventing the
reception of RFI and EMI electromagnetic signals by the audio system components.
The use of braided ground straps in key locations is part of the RFI and EMI prevention strategy. These ground
straps ensure adequate ground paths, particularly for high current components such as many of those found in
the starting, charging, ignition, engine control and transmission control systems. An insufficient ground path for
any of these high current components may result in radio noise caused by induced voltages created as the high
current seeks alternative ground paths through components or circuits intended for use by, or in close proximity
to the audio system components or circuits.
Preventing the reception of RFI and EMI is accomplished by ensuring that the audio system components are
correctly installed in the vehicle. Loose, corroded or improperly soldered wire harness connections, improperly
routed wiring and inadequate audio system component grounding can all contribute to the reception of RFI and
EMI. A properly grounded antenna body and radio chassis, as well as a shielded antenna coaxial cable with
clean and tight connections will each help reduce the potential for reception of RFI and EMI.
REMOVAL

2. Remove the retaining bolt from the transmission bell housing.
3. Remove the retaining nut from the plenum.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the retaining nut and ground strap to the plenum.

2. Install retaining bolt to the transmission bell housing.
REMOTE SWITCHES
DESCRIPTION
REMOTE SWITCHES
Radio controls are mounted on the back of the steering wheel. The controls provide convenient no-look
operation and operate the following functions:
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Right side
A rocker switch that increases or decreases the volume
A push button that selects modes. Repeatedly pressing the button selects from among AM radio,
FM radio and CD changer. If the vehicle is equipped with Satellite Digital Audio Radio (SDAR) or
the Video Entertainment System™, these are also included in the selection.
Left side
A rocker switch with functions that vary depending on the mode: in a radio mode, the frequency
increases or decreases; if a CD is playing, the player skips to the next or previous track; if SDAR is
playing the tuner skips to the next or previous channel.
A push button that steps through preset selections: if the radio is playing, pressing the button selects
the next preset frequency; if a CD is playing, the changer selects the next disc; if SDAR is playing
the next preset channel is selected.
OPERATION
REMOTE SWITCHES
The six switches in the two remote radio switch units are normally open, resistor multiplexed momentary
switches that are hard wired to the Cab Compartment Node (CCN) through the clockspring. The CCN sends a
five volt reference signal to both switch units on one circuit, and senses the status of all of the switches by
reading the voltage drop on a second circuit.
When the CCN senses an input (voltage drop) from any one of the remote radio switches, it sends the proper
switch status messages on the Controlled Area Network (CAN) to the radio receiver. The electronic circuitry
within the radio receiver is programmed to respond to these remote radio switch status messages by adjusting
the radio settings as requested. For diagnosis of the CCN or the CAN data bus, the use of a scan tool and the
proper Diagnostic article are recommended.
REMOTE SWITCHES
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1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the remote radio switch(es) from the steering
wheel. See REMOVAL.
2. Use an ohmmeter to check the switch resistances as shown in the Remote Radio Switch Test chart. If the
remote radio switch resistances check OK, go to step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty switch.
REMOTE RADIO SWITCH TEST TABLE

Switch Switch Position Resistance
Right (White) Volume Up 1.210 Kilohms ± 1%
Right (White) Volume Down 3.010 Kilohms ± 1%
Right (White) Mode Advance 0.0511 Kilohms ± 1%
Left (Black) Seek Up 0.261 Kilohms ± 1%
Left (Black) Seek Down 0.681 Kilohms ± 1%
Left (Black) Pre-Set Station Advance 0.162 Kilohms ± 1%
3. Reconnect the battery negative cable. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Check for 5 volts at the
radio control mux circuit cavities of the steering wheel wire harness connectors for both remote radio
switches. If OK, go to step 4. If not OK, repair the open or shorted radio control mux circuit as required.
4. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Disconnect the 22-way instrument panel wire harness
connector from the CCN. Check for continuity between the remote radio switch ground circuit cavities of
the steering wheel wire harness connectors for both remote radio switches and a good ground. There
should be no continuity. If not OK, repair the shorted remote radio switch ground circuit as required.
REMOVAL
REMOTE SWITCHES

2. Remove the driver side airbag from the vehicle. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the speed control switches.
4. Unplug the wire harness connector from the remote radio switch.
5. Depress the tabs on each side of each switch and push the switch through the rear steering wheel cover.
INSTALLATION
REMOTE SWITCHES
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1. Install remote radio switch to the steering wheel.

2. Connect the wire harness to the remote radio switch.
3. Install the speed control switches.
4. Install the driver side airbag. Refer to INSTALLATION .
SPEAKER
DESCRIPTION
SPEAKER
STANDARD
The standard equipment speaker system includes speakers in six locations. One 6.4 centimeter (2.50 inch)
diameter speaker is installed on each end of the instrument panel top pad. One 16.5 centimeter (6.5 inch) full-
range speaker is located in each front door. There is also one full-range 16.5 centimeter (6.5 inch) diameter full-
range speaker located in each rear door.
PREMIUM
The optional premium speaker system features nine Premium model speakers. Each of the standard speakers are
replaced with Premium model speakers. One 6.4 centimeter (2.50 inch) diameter speaker is installed on each
end of the instrument panel top pad. One 16.5 centimeter (6.5 inch) Premium woofer is located in each front
door. There is also one full-range 16.5 centimeter (6.5 inch) diameter Premium full-range speaker located in
each rear door as well as one 1.9 centimeter (.75 inch) tweeter in each rear door. A 20.3 centimeter (8 inch)
subwoofer is located in the rear cargo area. The premium speaker system also includes a power amplifier rated
at 368 watts.
OPERATION
SPEAKER
Two wires connected to each speaker, one feed circuit (+) and one return circuit (-), allow the audio output
signal electrical current to flow through the voice coil. For complete circuit diagrams, refer to the appropriate
wiring information. The wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair
procedures, details of wire harness routing and retention, connector pin-out information and location views for
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SPEAKER
Refer to the appropriate wiring information.
CAUTION: The speaker output of the radio is a "floating ground" system. Do not
allow any speaker lead to short to ground, as damage to the radio may
result.
NOTE: If poor sound quality is noted in the audio system, check the Cabin Equalization
curve programmed in the TIPM. Make sure a base speaker system has the Base
Cabin Equalization Curve programmed to the vehicle. If the vehicle has a
premium speaker system, make sure the Premium Cabin Equalization Curve is
programmed to the vehicle
1. If all speakers are inoperative, check the fuses in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). If OK, go
to Step 2. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Turn the radio receiver ON. Adjust the balance and fader
control controls to check the performance of each individual speaker. Note the speaker locations that are
not performing correctly. Go to Step 3.
3. Turn the radio receiver OFF. Turn the ignition OFF. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. If
vehicle is not equipped with an amplifier, remove the radio receiver. If vehicle is equipped with an
amplifier, disconnect wire harness connector at output side of amplifier. Go to Step 4.
4. Check both the speaker feed (+) circuit and return (-) circuit cavities for the inoperative speaker at the
radio receiver wire harness connector for continuity to ground. There should be no continuity. If OK, go
to Step 5. If not OK, repair the shorted speaker feed (+) and/or return (-) circuits(s) to the speaker as
required.
5. Disconnect wire harness connector at the inoperative speaker. Check for continuity between the speaker
feed (+) circuit cavities of the radio receiver wire harness connector and the speaker wire harness
connector. Repeat the check between the speaker return (-) circuit cavities of the radio receiver wire
harness connector and the speaker wire harness connector. In each case, there should be continuity. If
OK, replace the faulty speaker. If not OK, repair the open speaker feed (+) and/or return (-) circuits(s) as
required.
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REMOVAL
SPEAKER
FRONT DOOR Refer to step FRONT DOOR removal procedure.

INSTRUMENT PANEL Refer to step INSTRUMENT PANEL removal procedure.
REAR DOOR Refer to step REAR DOOR removal procedure.
SUBWOOFER Refer to step SUBWOOFER removal procedure.
SPEAKER
Fig. 6: Removing Speaker


2. Remove the front door trim panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the speaker mounting fasteners.
4. Remove the speaker from the door and disconnect the wire harness connector.
INSTRUMENT PANEL
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Fig. 7: Removing Speaker In Instrument Panel


2. Remove the air outlet. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove speaker mounting fasteners.
4. Remove speaker (1) and disconnect the wire harness connector.
REAR DOOR
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Fig. 8: Removing Rear Door Speaker


2. Remove the rear door trim panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Remove the speaker (1) from the door and disconnect the wire harness connector (3).
SUBWOOFER
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Fig. 9: Removing Subwoofer


2. Remove the speaker grille fasteners and remove the speaker grille.
4. Remove the speaker and disconnect the electrical connector.
INSTALLATION
SPEAKER
FRONT DOOR Refer to FRONT DOOR installation procedure.

INSTRUMENT PANEL Refer to INSTRUMENT PANEL installation procedure.
REAR DOOR Refer to REAR DOOR installation procedure.
SUBWOOFER Refer to SUBWOOFER installation procedure.
FRONT DOOR
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Fig. 10: Installing Front Door Speaker

1. Connect the wire harness connector and install the speaker to the door.
2. Install the speaker mounting screws. Tighten to 2 N.m (20 in. lbs.).
3. Install the front door trim panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
INSTRUMENT PANEL
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Fig. 11: Installing Instrument Panel Speaker

1. Connect wire harness connector and install speaker.

2. Install speaker mounting screws. Tighten to 2 N.m (20 in. lbs.).
3. Install the air outlet. Refer to INSTALLATION .
REAR DOOR
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Fig. 12: Installing Rear Door Speaker

1. Connect the wire harness connector and install the speaker to the door.
2. Install the speaker mounting screws. Tighten to 2 N.m (20 in. lbs.).
3. Install the rear door trim panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
SUBWOOFER
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Fig. 13: Installing Subwoofer

1. Connect the electrical connector and install the speaker.

2. Install the speaker mounting fasteners.
3. Install the speaker grille.
VIDEO SCREEN
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 14: Removing Video Screen


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2. Remove the video screen mounting fasteners.

3. Remove the video screen and disconnect the electrical connectors.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
Fig. 15: Installing Video Screen

1. Connect the electrical connectors and snap the video screen in position.
2. Install the video screen mounting fasteners.
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2007 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 42RLE - Service Information - Nitro
ASSEMBLY
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RLE
NOTE: If the transmission assembly is being reconditioned (clutch/seal replacement)

or replaced, it is necessary to perform the TCM QUICK LEARN Procedure using
the scan tool.
Fig. 18: 42RLE Bearing Orientation

1 - THRUST BEARING NO.1 5 - THRUST BEARING NO.5

2 - THRUST BEARING NO.2 6 - NEEDLE BEARING NO.6
3 - THRUST BEARING NO.3 7 - NEEDLE BEARING NO.7
4 - THRUST BEARING NO.4 -
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Fig. 19: Bearing Cup Installation Special Tool - 5050A

1. Install the output bearing cups using Installer 5050A. See Fig. 19
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Fig. 20: Removing/Installing Piston Retainer Gasket

1 - GASKET HOLES MUST LINE UP

2 - LOW/REVERSE CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER
GASKET
2. Install low/reverse piston retainer gasket (2). See Fig. 20.
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Fig. 21: Installing Low/Reverse Piston Retainer


2 - GASKET
3. Install low/reverse piston retainer (1). See Fig. 21.
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Fig. 22: Installing Low/Reverse Piston Retainer-To-Case Screws


2 - SCREWDRIVER
3 - TORX-LOC SCREWS
4. Install low/reverse piston retainer-to-case screws (3) and torque to 5 N.m (45 in. lbs.). See Fig. 22.
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Fig. 23: Installing Low/Reverse Clutch Piston

1 - LOW/REVERSE CLUTCH PISTON

2 - D-RING SEAL
3 - D-RING SEAL
NOTE: The Low/Reverse Clutch Piston has bonded seals which are not
individually serviceable. Seal replacement requires replacement of the
piston assembly.
5. Install low/reverse clutch piston (1). See Fig. 23.
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Fig. 24: Assembled Guide Bracket

1 - GUIDE BRACKET
2 - ANTIRATCHET SPRING (MUST BE ASSEMBLED AS
SHOWN)
3 - PAWL
6. Assemble guide bracket (1) assembly as shown, if necessary. See Fig. 24.
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Fig. 25: Installing Guide Bracket Pivot Pin

1 - PIVOT PIN
2 - GUIDE BRACKET ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: When installing, be sure guide bracket and split sleeve touch the rear
of the transmission case.
7. Install guide bracket pivot pin (1). See Fig. 25.

8. Install park sprag pivot retaining screw and torque to 4.5 N.m (40 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 26: Installing Low/Reverse Piston Belleville Spring

1 - LOW/REVERSE PISTON RETURN SPRING

2 - PISTON
9. Install low/reverse piston belleville spring (1) into position. See Fig. 26
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Fig. 27: Installing And Loading Low/Reverse Spring With Compressor Tool 5058A-3, 5059A And
Disc 6057 To Facilitate Snap Ring Installation
1 - LOW/REVERSE CLUTCH RETURN SPRING

2 - SNAP RING (INSTALL AS SHOWN)
3 - COMPRESSOR 5058A-3
4 - COMPRESSOR 5059A
5 - DISC 6057
10. Install and load low/reverse spring with compressor tool 5058A-3 (3), 5059A (4) and disc 6057 (5) as
shown in Fig. 27 to facilitate snap ring (2) installation.
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Fig. 28: Installing Low/Reverse Clutch Snap Ring

1 - SNAP RING OPENING MUST BE BETWEEN SPRING

LEVERS (AS SHOWN)
2 - SNAP RING PLIERS
3 - DISC 6057
11. Install snap ring (1) and remove compressor tool. See Fig. 28
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Fig. 29: Installing Rear Carrier Front Bearing Cone

1 - ARBOR PRESS
2 - UNIVERSAL HANDLE C-4171
3 - INSTALLER 6052
4 - REAR CARRIER
12. Install rear carrier (4) front bearing cone. See Fig. 29
Fig. 30: Installing Rear Output Shaft Bearing Cone And Support Plate 6618A
1 - SUPPORT PLATE 6618-A

2 - REAR OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING
Check output bearing preload. Output bearing preload must be checked and/or adjusted if any of the
following items have been replaced:
Output shaft (rear carrier assembly)

Output shaft bearings
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Transmission case
13. PRELOAD CHECK/SHIM SELECTION: Install rear output shaft bearing cone and Support Plate
6618A (1). See Fig. 30.
Fig. 31: Installing Support Plate

1 - SUPPORT PLATE 6618-A
14. Install Support Plate 6618A (1). See Fig. 31. Lightly tighten retaining screws. Screws should be below
the plate surface, but do not snug screws.
15. Turn case over on arbor press so that the plate is resting on the press base. CAUTION: The output shaft
will extend through the hole of Support Plate 6618A. Ensure your press table has clearance for the
output shaft.
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Fig. 32: Installing Shim On Output Shaft

1 - SHIM
2 - OUTPUT SHAFT
16. Install shim (1) on output shaft (2). See Fig. 32. Apply small amount of petrolatum onto the shim to hold
it in place. Use the original shim as a starting point. If original shim is not available, use the thickest shim
available.
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Fig. 33: Install Output Shaft/Rear Carrier Into Rear Bearing

1 - UNIVERSAL HANDLE C-4171 AND HANDLE

EXTENSION C-4171-2
2 - DISC MD-998911
17. Install output shaft/rear carrier into rear bearing. The shaft must be pressed into position. Use Disc MD-
998911 (2) and Universal Handle C-4171 and Handle Extension C4171-2 (1) to press shaft into rear
bearing. See Fig. 33.
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Fig. 34: Checking Turning Torque Of Output Shaft

1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - WRENCH 6498-A
3 - OUTPUT SHAFT NUT
CAUTION: Do not re-use old output shaft nut because the removed stake
weakens the nut flange. Using Wrenches 6497 and 6498-A, install
new output shaft nut. Tighten new output shaft nut to 271 N.m (200 ft.
lbs.).
18. Check the turning torque (1) of the output shaft. See Fig. 34. The shaft should have 1 to 8 in. lbs. of
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turning torque. If the turning torque is higher than 8 in. lbs, install a thicker shim. If turning torque is less
than 1 in. lb, install a thinner shim. Make sure there is no end play.
Fig. 35: Identifying Arbor Press, Staking Tool - 6639 & New Nut
1 - ARBOR PRESS
2 - STAKING TOOL - 6639
3 - NEW NUT
CAUTION: Failure to stake nut could allow the nut to back-off during use.
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19. The new nut (3) must be staked after the correct turning torque is obtained. See Fig. 35. Use Staking Tool
6639 (2) to stake output shaft nut.
Fig. 36: Identifying Bottomed In Slot & Correctly Staked Nut

1 - BOTTOMED IN SLOT
2 - CORRECTLY STAKED NUT
20. Verify that the nut has been properly staked to the output shaft. See Fig. 36.
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Fig. 37: Installing Low/Reverse Clutch Pack

1 - CLUTCH PLATES (5)

2 - CLUTCH DISCS (5)
21. Install low/reverse clutch pack (1, 2). See Fig. 37. Leave uppermost disc out to facilitate snap ring
installation.
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Fig. 38: Installing Low/Reverse Reaction Plate Snap Ring

1 - SCREWDRIVER
2 - LOW/REVERSE REACTION PLATE FLAT SNAP
RING
3 - DO NOT SCRATCH CLUTCH PLATE
22. Install low/reverse reaction plate snap ring (2). See Fig. 38.
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Fig. 39: Installing One Low/Reverse Clutch Disc

1 - ONE DISC FROM LOW/REVERSE CLUTCH
23. Install one low/reverse clutch disc (1). See Fig. 39.
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Fig. 40: Installing Low/Reverse Reaction Plate With Flat Side Up

1 - LOW/REVERSE REACTION PLATE (FLAT SIDE UP)
24. Install low/reverse reaction plate (1) with flat side up. See Fig. 40
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Fig. 41: Installing New Tapered Snap Ring (Tapered Side Out)
1 - SCREWDRIVER
2 - TAPERED SNAP RING (INSTALL AS SHOWN)
25. Install a new tapered snap ring (2) (tapered side out). See Fig. 41.
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Fig. 42: Proper Snap Ring Orientation

26. Make sure that the snap ring ends are oriented as shown. See Fig. 42.
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Fig. 43: Checking Low/Reverse Clutch Clearance

1 - DIAL INDICATOR
2 - DIAL INDICATOR TIP TOOL 6268
3 - HOOK TOOL
27. Measure low/reverse clutch pack. Set up dial indicator (1) as shown. Press down clutch pack with finger
and zero dial indicator. Record measurement in four (4) places and take average reading. See Fig.
43.Low/Reverse clutch pack clearance is 0.84 to 1.60 mm (0.033 to 0.063 inch).
28. Select the proper low/reverse reaction plate to achieve specifications.
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Fig. 44: Installing 2/4 Clutch Pack

1 - CLUTCH PLATE (4)

2 - CLUTCH DISC (4)
29. Install 2/4 clutch pack (1, 2). See Fig. 44.
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Fig. 45: Installing 2/4 Clutch Belleville Spring

1 - 2/4 CLUTCH RETURN SPRING
NOTE: The 2/4 Clutch Piston has bonded seals which are not individually
serviceable. Seal replacement requires replacement of the piston
assembly.
30. Install 2/4 clutch belleville spring (1). See Fig. 45.
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Fig. 46: Verifying Proper Orientation Of Return Spring To 2/4 Retainer

1 - NOTE POSITION
2 - RETURN SPRING
3 - 2/4 CLUTCH RETAINER
31. Verify the proper orientation of the return spring (2) to the 2/4 retainer (3). See Fig. 46.
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Fig. 47: Installing 2/4 Clutch Retainer

32. Install 2/4 clutch retainer (1). See Fig. 47.
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Fig. 48: Compressing 2/4 Clutch

1 - TOOL 5058
2 - SCREWDRIVER
3 - SNAP RING
NOTE: Verify that Compressor 5058A (1) is centered properly over the 2/4 clutch
retainer (4) before compressing. If necessary, fasten the bar from
Compressor 5058A to the bellhousing flange with any combination of
locking pliers and bolts to center the tool properly.
33. Set up Compressor 5058 (1) as shown. Compress 2/4 clutch just enough to facilitate snap ring installation.
See Fig. 48.
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Fig. 49: Checking 2/4 Clutch Clearance

1 - DIAL INDICATOR
2 - HOOK TOOL
3 - DIAL INDICATOR TIP TOOL 6268
34. Measure 2/4 clutch clearance: Set up dial indicator (1) as shown. Press down clutch pack with finger
and zero dial indicator. Record measurement in four (4) places and take average reading. See Fig. 49.The
2/4 clutch pack clearance is 0.76 to 2.64 mm (0.030 to 0.104 inch). If not within specifications, the
clutch is not assembled properly or is excessively worn. There is no adjustment for the 2/4 clutch
clearance.
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Fig. 50: Identifying Rear Sun Gear & No. 7 Needle Bearing
1 - #7 BEARING
2 - REAR SUN GEAR
35. Install the #7 needle bearing (1) to the rear sun gear (2). See Fig. 50. The number 7 needle bearing has
three antireversal tabs and is common with the number 5 and number 2 position. The orientation
should allow the bearing to seat flat against the rear sun gear. A small amount of petrolatum can be
used to hold the bearing to the rear sun gear.
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Fig. 51: Installing Rear Sun Gear And #7 Needle Bearing

1 - #7 NEEDLE BEARING
2 - REAR SUN GEAR
36. Install rear sun gear (2) and #7 needle bearing (1). See Fig. 51.
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Fig. 52: Installing Front Carrier/Rear Annulus Assembly And #6 Needle Bearing
1 - #6 NEEDLE BEARING
2 - FRONT CARRIER AND REAR ANNULUS
ASSEMBLY (TWIST AND PULL OR PUSH TO REMOVE
OR INSTALL).
37. Install front carrier/rear annulus assembly (2) and #6 needle bearing (1). See Fig. 52.
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Fig. 53: Installing Front Sun Gear Assembly And #4 Thrust Washer
1 - FRONT SUN GEAR ASSEMBLY

2 - #4 THRUST WASHER (FOUR TABS)
38. Install front sun gear assembly (1) and #4 thrust washer (2). See Fig. 53.
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Fig. 54: Installing #4 Thrust Plate Using Petrolatum To Hold Into Position
1 - OVERDRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY

2 - #4 THRUST PLATE (SELECT)
3 - PETROLATUM FOR RETENTION
39. Determine proper #4 thrust plate thickness. Select the thinnest available #4 thrust plate.
40. Install #4 thrust plate (2) using petrolatum to hold into position. See Fig. 54.
41. Install input clutch assembly. Ensure the input clutch assembly is completely seated by viewing position
through input speed sensor hole. If the speed sensor tone wheel is not centered in the opening, the
input clutches assembly is not seated properly.
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Fig. 55: Removing Oil Pump O-Ring And Installing Oil Pump And Gasket To Transmission
1 - OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY

2 - O-RING
42. Remove the oil pump o-ring (2) and install oil pump and gasket to transmission. See Fig. 55.Use screw-
in dowels or Phillips head screwdrivers to align pump to case. Be sure to reinstall O-ring on oil
pump after selecting the proper No. 4 thrust plate.
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Fig. 56: Measuring Input Shaft End Play Using End Play Set 8266
1 - TOOL 8266-8
2 - TOOL 8266-2
3 - TOOL C-3339A
43. Measure the input shaft end play with the transmission in the vertical position. This will ensure that the
measurement will be accurate.
44. Set up and measure endplay using End Play Set 8266 (1, 2) and Dial Indicator Set C3339A (3) as shown.
See Fig. 56.
45. Measure input shaft end play. Input shaft end play must be 0.127 to 0.635 mm (0.005 to 0.025 inch).
For example, if end play reading is 0.055 inch, select No. 4 Thrust Plate which is 0.071 to 0.074 thick.
This should provide an input shaft end play reading of 0.020 inch, which is within specifications.
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Fig. 57: Installing Input Clutch Assembly With Proper Thrust Plate
1 - INPUT CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
46. Remove oil pump, gasket, and input clutch assembly to gain access to and install proper #4 thrust plate.
47. Install input clutch assembly (1) with proper thrust plate. See Fig. 57.
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Fig. 58: Installing #1 Caged Needle Bearing

1 - #1 CAGED NEEDLE BEARING

2 - NOTE: TANGED SIDE OUT
48. Install #1 caged needle bearing (1). See Fig. 58.
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Fig. 59: Replacing Cooler By-Pass Valve

1 - BYPASS VALVE
CAUTION: By-pass valve MUST be replaced if transmission failure occurs.
49. Replace cooler by-pass valve (1) if transmission failure has occurred. See Fig. 59.
NOTE: To align oil pump, gasket, and case during installation, use threaded
dowels or Phillips screwdrivers.
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Fig. 60: Installing Oil Pump Gasket

1 - BELLHOUSING
2 - OIL PUMP GASKET
50. Install oil pump gasket (2). See Fig. 60.
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Fig. 61: Installing Oil Pump And Torque Oil Pump-To-Case Bolts
1 - BOLTS
2 - OIL PUMP
51. Install oil pump (2) and torque oil pump-to-case bolts (1) to 30 N.m (265 in. lbs.). Do not reuse original
oil pump bolts. See Fig. 61.
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Fig. 62: Installing Low/Reverse Accumulator

1 - ACCUMULATOR PISTON
52. Install low/reverse accumulator (1) as shown. See Fig. 62.
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Fig. 63: Installing Low/Reverse Accumulator Plug

1 - ADJUSTABLE PLIERS
2 - PLUG
53. Install low/reverse accumulator plug (2). See Fig. 63.
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Fig. 64: Installing Low/Reverse Accumulator Snap Ring

1 - SNAP RING
2 - LOW/REVERSE ACCUMULATOR
54. Install low/reverse accumulator snap ring (1). See Fig. 64.
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Fig. 65: Installing Underdrive And Overdrive Accumulators And Springs

1 - OVERDRIVE PISTON AND SPRING

2 - UNDERDRIVE PISTON AND SPRING
55. Install underdrive (2) and overdrive (1) accumulators and springs. See Fig. 65.
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Fig. 66: Removing/Installing Valve Body

1 - VALVE BODY
CAUTION: Do not handle the valve body by the manual shaft. Damage could
result.
56. Install valve body (1) into place as shown. See Fig. 66.
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Fig. 67: Removing/Installing Valve Body Bolts

1 - BOLTS
57. Install seven (7) valve body-to-case bolts (1) and torque to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.). See Fig. 67.
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Fig. 68: Removing/Installing Transmission Oil Filter

1 - TRANSMISSION FILTER
58. Install transmission oil filter (1). See Fig. 68. Tighten the bolts to 5 N.m (45 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 69: Removing/Installing Transmission Oil Pan

1 - TRANSMISSION OIL PAN
59. Install transmission oil pan (1) with a bead of Mopar® ATF RTV. See Fig. 69.
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Fig. 70: Locating Oil Pan Bolts & Pressure Ports

1 - FRONT DRIVESHAFT
2 - PRESSURE PORTS
3 - TRANSMISSION CASE
5 - SECOND TRANSMISSION OIL PAN BOLT ON LEFT
SIDE
6 - FIRST TRANSMISSION OIL PAN BOLT
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NOTE: Before installing the oil pan bolt in the bolt hole located between the
torque converter clutch on and U/D clutch pressure tap circuits, it will be
necessary to replenish the sealing patch on the bolt using Mopar® Lock &
Seal Adhesive. See Fig. 70.
60. Install and torque the oil pan-to-case bolts to 20 N.m (14.5 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 71: Locating Input Speed, Output Speed and Transmission Range Sensors
1 - INPUT SPEED SENSOR

2 - OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR
3 - TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR
NOTE: Before installing either speed sensor bolt, it will be necessary to replenish
the sealing patch on the bolt using Mopar® Lock & Seal Adhesive.
61. Install both speed sensors (1, 2) into the transmission case. Torque the speed sensor bolts to 9 N.m (80 in.
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lbs.). See Fig. 71.
Fig. 72: Measuring Input Shaft End Play Using End Play Set 8266
1 - TOOL 8266-8
2 - TOOL 8266-2
3 - TOOL C-3339A
62. As a final check of the transmission, measure the input shaft end play. This will indicate when a #4 thrust
plate change is required. The #4 thrust plate is located behind the overdrive clutch hub. Attach a dial
indicator C-3339A to transmission bell housing with its plunger seated against end of input shaft. See Fig.
72. Install tool 8266-2 (2), 8266-8 (1) and move input shaft in and out to obtain end play reading. Input
shaft end play must be 0.127 to 0.635 mm (0.005 to 0.025 inch). If not within specifications, make the
necessary thrust plate adjustment.
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63. On 4X2 transmissions, perform the following, if necessary:
Fig. 73: Removing/Installing Extension Shaft Bearing

1 - EXTENSION SHAFT
2 - BEARING
 Install the extension shaft bearing (2) onto the extension shaft. See Fig. 73.
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Fig. 74: Removing/Installing Extension Shaft Bearing Retaining Ring

1 - EXTENSION SHAFT
2 - BEARING
3 - RETAINING RING
 Install the extension shaft bearing retaining ring (3) onto the extension shaft (1). See Fig. 74.
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Fig. 75: Installing Extension Shaft And Bearing Assembly Into Extension Housing
1 - EXTENSION HOUSING
2 - EXTENSION SHAFT
3 - BEARING
 Install the extension shaft (2) and bearing assembly (3) into the extension housing (1). See Fig. 75.
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Fig. 76: Installing Extension Shaft Bearing Snap Ring Into Extension Housing
1 - EXTENSION SHAFT
2 - BEARING
3 - SNAP RING
 Install the extension shaft bearing snap ring (3) into the extension housing. See Fig. 76.
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Fig. 77: Identifying Extension Shaft, Bearing & Snap Ring

1 - EXTENSION SHAFT
2 - BEARING
3 - SNAP RING
 Verify that the extension shaft snap ring (3) is fully engaged in the snap ring groove. See Fig. 77.
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Fig. 78: Inspecting Lube Tube Grommet For Damage

1 - HOUSING
2 - LUBE TUBE
3 - GROMMET
4 - PRY SLOTS
64. Inspect the lube tube grommet (2) for damage. If the grommet lip is damaged, it will need to be replaced.
See Fig. 78.
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Fig. 79: Installing Adapter Housing Onto Transmission Case

2 - ADAPTER HOUSING
65. Install the 4X4 stub shaft onto the transmission output shaft.
66. Place a bead of Mopar® ATF RTV on the rear surface of the transmission case for the adapter/extension
housing.
67. Install the adapter housing (2) onto the transmission case, 4X4 vehicles only. See Fig. 79.
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Fig. 80: Installing Extension Housing Onto Transmission Case

2 - EXTENSION HOUSING
68. Install the extension housing (2) onto the transmission case, 4X2 vehicles only. See Fig. 80.
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Fig. 81: Adapter Housing Fasteners

1 - STUD, ADAPTER/EXTENSION
2 - TRANSMISSION MOUNT FASTENERS (4)
5 - NUT, EXHAUST HANGER BRACKET (2)
6 - STUD, ADAPTER/EXTENSION
8 - BOLT, ADAPTER/EXTENSION (2)
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NOTE: Before installing the lowermost four adapter/extension housing bolts, it

will be necessary to replenish the sealing patch on the bolts using Mopar®
Lock & Seal Adhesive.
Fig. 82: Installing Adapter Housing Bolts

2 - ADAPTER HOUSING
3 - BOLTS
69. Install the bolts that hold the adapter or extension housing onto the transmission case. Be sure to install
any stud bolts to their original locations. Tighten the bolts to 54 N.m (40 ft.lbs.). See Fig. 82.
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PRELIMINARY
Two basic procedures are required. One procedure for vehicles that are drivable and an alternate procedure for
disabled vehicles (will not back up or move forward).
VEHICLE IS DRIVABLE
1. Record all DTCs and the accompanying DTC Event Data.

2. Check for an appropriate Technical Service Bulletin that applies to the customer complaint.
3. Check fluid level and condition.
4. Road test and note how transmission upshifts, downshifts, and engages.
5. If the complaint was related to shift quality, perform the TCM QUICK LEARN procedure , and the
DRIVE LEARN Procedure .
6. If the shift complaint still exists, compare actual line pressure (sensor reading, using the scan tool) to the
Desired Line Pressure reading, in Park, Drive, and Reverse at 1500 RPM. Check that the LP sensor reads
30 psi (the minimum it should ever display) with key on/engine off.
7. Perform air-pressure test to check clutch operation. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
8. Replace the Transmission Solenoid/TRS Assembly and perform the Quick Learn and Drive Learn
procedures again.
9. If the complaint still exists, remove, inspect, and repair the transmission as necessary.
VEHICLE IS DISABLED
1. Record all DTCs and the accompanying DTC Event Data.

2. With engine running, place transmission in gear and verify correct PRNDL reading. Observe the Input
and Output speeds using the scan tool. If output RPM is greater than zero but vehicle does not move,
check for transfer case in Neutral (or failed internally), failed propshaft, or failed/disconnected drive axle.
If output RPM is zero and input RPM is greater than zero, internal transmission slippage is indicated. Run
clutch slip tests using the scan tool, check oil pan for debris, and air check the various clutch circuits.
3. Shift the transmission into neutral, if both input and output speeds are zero, check flexplate bolts, torque
converter, and transmission input shaft.
4. Compare actual line pressure (sensor reading, using the scan tool) to the Desired Line Pressure reading, in
Park, Drive, and Reverse at 1500 RPM. Check that the LP sensor reads 30 psi (the minimum it should
ever display) with key on/engine off. If line pressure is incorrect, check fluid level and condition.
5. Remove, inspect, and repair the transmission as necessary.
HYDRAULIC PRESSURE TESTS - 42RLE
NOTE: Before preforming the hydraulic pressure tests be certain to disconnect the
Variable Line Pressure (VLP) electrical connector at the transmission. Check for
and clear any codes that may have been set after preforming any hydraulic
pressure test and connecting the Variable Line Pressure (VLP) electrical
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connector.
Fig. 8: Pressure Taps

1 - TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH OFF

2 - REVERSE
3 - LOW/REVERSE
4 - 2/4
5 - UNDERDRIVE
6 - TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH ON
7 - OVERDRIVE
Pressure testing is a very important step in the diagnostic procedure. These tests usually reveal the cause of
most transmission problems.
Before performing pressure tests, be certain that fluid level and condition, and shift cable adjustments have been
checked and approved. Fluid must be at operating temperature (150 to 200 degrees F.).
Install an engine tachometer, raise vehicle on hoist which allows the wheels to turn, and position tachometer so
it can be read.
Using special adapters L-4559, attach 300 psi gauge(s) C-3293SP to the port(s) required for test being
conducted.
Test port locations are shown in the Pressure Taps graphic. See Fig. 8
TEST ONE - SELECTOR IN MANUAL 1 (1st Gear)
NOTE: This test checks pump output, pressure regulation and condition of the
low/reverse clutch hydraulic circuit and shift schedule.
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1. Attach pressure gauge to the low/reverse clutch tap.

2. Move selector lever to the MANUAL 1 position.
3. Allow vehicle wheels to turn and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated vehicle speed to 20
mph.
4. Low/reverse clutch pressure should read 115 to 145 psi.
TEST TWO - SELECTOR IN MANUAL 2 (Second Gear)
NOTE: This test checks the underdrive clutch hydraulic circuit as well as the shift
schedule.
1. Attach gauge to the underdrive clutch tap.

2. Move selector lever to the MANUAL 2 position.
3. Allow vehicle wheels to turn and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated vehicle speed of 30
mph.
4. In second gear the underdrive clutch pressure should read 110 to 145 psi.
TEST TWO A - SELECTOR IN DRIVE (OD ON - Fourth Gear)
NOTE: This test checks the underdrive clutch hydraulic circuit as well as the shift
schedule.
1. Attach gauge to the underdrive clutch tap.

2. Move selector lever to the DRIVE position. Verify that the OD switch is ON.
3. Allow wheels to rotate freely and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated speed of 40 mph.
4. Underdrive clutch pressure should read below 5 psi. If not, than either the solenoid assembly or controller
is at fault.
TEST THREE - SELECTOR IN DRIVE (OD OFF - Third and Second Gear)
NOTE: This test checks the overdrive clutch hydraulic circuit as well as the shift
schedule.
1. Attach gauge to the overdrive clutch tap.

2. Move selector lever to the DRIVE position.
mph.
4. Overdrive clutch pressure should read 74 to 95 psi.
5. Move selector lever to the DRIVE position and increase indicated vehicle speed to 30 mph.
6. The vehicle should be in second gear and overdrive clutch pressure should be less than 5 psi.
TEST FOUR - SELECTOR IN DRIVE (OD ON - Fourth Gear)
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NOTE: This test checks the 2/4 clutch hydraulic circuit.
1. Attach gauge to the 2/4 clutch tap.

3. Allow vehicle front wheels to turn and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated vehicle speed of
30 mph. Vehicle should be in fourth gear.
4. The 2/4 clutch pressure should read 75 to 95 psi.
TEST FIVE-SELECTOR IN DRIVE (OD ON - Fourth Gear, CC on)
NOTE: These tests check the torque converter clutch hydraulic circuit.
1. Attach gauge to the torque converter clutch off pressure tap.

mph. Vehicle should be in 4th gear, CC on.
CAUTION: Both wheels must turn at the same speed.
4. Torque converter clutch off pressure should be less than 5 psi.

5. Now attach the gauge to the torque converter clutch on pressure tap.
6. Move selector to the OD position.
mph.
8. Verify the torque converter clutch is applied mode using the RPM display of the scan tool.
9. Torque converter clutch on pressure should be 60-90 psi.
TEST SIX-SELECTOR IN REVERSE
NOTE: This test checks the reverse clutch hydraulic circuit.
1. Attach gauge to the reverse and low/reverse clutch tap.

2. Move selector lever to the REVERSE position.
3. Read reverse clutch pressure with output stationary (foot on brake) and throttle opened to achieve 1500
RPM.
4. Reverse and low/reverse clutch pressure should read 165 to 235 psi.
TEST RESULT INDICATIONS
1. If proper line pressure is found in any one test, the pump and pressure regulator are working properly.
2. Low pressure in all positions indicates a defective pump, a clogged filter, or a stuck pressure regulator
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valve.
3. Clutch circuit leaks are indicated if pressures do not fall within the specified pressure range.
4. If the overdrive clutch pressure is greater than 5 psi in step 6 of Test Three, a worn reaction shaft seal ring
or a defective solenoid assembly is indicated.
5. If the underdrive clutch pressure is greater than 5 psi in step 4 of Test Two-A, a defective
solenoid/pressure switch assembly or controller is the cause.
ALL PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS ARE PSI (on hoist, with wheels free to turn)
Gear Actual Gear PRESSURE TAPS
Selector Underdrive Overdrive Reverse Torque Torque 2/4 Low/Reverse
Position Clutch Clutch Clutch Converter Converter Clutch Clutch
Clutch Clutch
Off On
PARK - 0 PARK 0-2 0-5 0-2 60-110 45-100 0-2 115-145
mph *
REVERSE - REVERSE 0-2 0-7 165-235 50-100 35-85 0-2 165-235
0 mph *
NEUTRAL NEUTRAL 0-2 0-5 0-2 60-110 45-100 0-2 115-145
- 0 mph *
Low - 20 FIRST 110-145 0-5 0-2 60-110 45-100 0-2 115-145
mph #
Third - 30 SECOND 110-145 0-5 0-2 60-110 45-100 115- 0-2
mph # 145
Third - 45 DIRECT 75-95 75-95 0-2 60-90 45-80 0-2 0-2
mph #
OD - 30 OVERDRIVE 0-2 75-95 0-2 60-90 45-80 75-95 0-2
mph #
OD - 50 OVERDRIVE 0-2 75-95 0-2 0-5 60-95 75-95 0-2
mph # WITH TCC
* Engine Speed at 1500 RPM
# CAUTION: Both wheels must be turning at same speed.
CLUTCH AIR PRESSURE TESTS - 42RLE
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Fig. 9: Air Pressure Test Plates & 2/4 Clutch Retainer Hole
1 - AIR PRESSURE TEST PLATES

2 - 2/4 CLUTCH RETAINER HOLE
Inoperative clutches can be located by substituting air pressure for fluid pressure. The clutches may be tested by
applying air pressure to their respective passages after the valve body has been removed. Use Plate Set 6599-1
(1) and 6599-2 (1) to perform test. See Fig. 9.
To make air pressure tests, proceed as follows:
NOTE: The compressed air supply must be free of all dirt and moisture. Use a pressure
of 30 psi.
1. Remove oil pan and valve body. See REMOVAL.

2. Apply air pressure to the holes in the special tool (1), one at a time.
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3. Listen for the clutch to apply. It will give a slight thud sound. If a large amount of air is heard escaping,
the transmission must be removed from vehicle, disassembled and all seals inspected.
2/4 CLUTCH
Apply air pressure to the feed hole located on the 2/4 clutch retainer (2). Look in the area where the 2/4 piston
contacts the first separator plate and watch carefully for the 2/4 piston to move rearward. The piston should
return to its original position after the air pressure is removed.
OVERDRIVE CLUTCH
Apply air pressure to the overdrive clutch apply passage and watch for the push/pull piston to move forward.
The piston should return to its starting position when the air pressure is removed.
REVERSE CLUTCH
Apply air pressure to the reverse clutch apply passage and watch for the push/pull piston to move rearward. The
piston should return to its starting position when the air pressure is removed.
LOW/REVERSE CLUTCH
Apply air pressure to the low/reverse clutch feed hole passage. Look in the area where the low/reverse piston
contacts the first separator plate. Watch carefully for the piston to move forward. The piston should return to its
original position after the air pressure is removed.
UNDERDRIVE CLUTCH
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Fig. 10: Testing Underdrive Clutch

1 - AIR PRESSURE TEST PLATE 6599-1

2 - AIR NOZZLE
Because this clutch piston cannot be seen, its operation is checked by function. Use an air nozzle (2) to apply air
pressure is to the low/reverse or the 2/4 clutch opening in Plate Set 6599-1 (2). This locks the output shaft. Use
a piece of rubber hose wrapped around the input shaft and a pair of clamp-on pliers to turn the input shaft. Next
apply air pressure to the underdrive clutch. The input shaft should not rotate with hand torque. Release the air
pressure and confirm that the input shaft will rotate. See Fig. 10.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RLE
CAUTION: Before attempting any repair on the 42RLE Four Speed Automatic
Transmission, always check for proper shift cable adjustment. Also check
for diagnostic trouble codes with the scan tool and the 42RLE
Transmission Diagnostic information.
42RLE automatic transmission malfunctions may be caused by these general conditions:
Poor engine performance

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Improper adjustments
Hydraulic malfunctions
Mechanical malfunctions
Electronic malfunctions
When diagnosing a problem always begin with recording the complaint. The complaint should be defined as
specific as possible. Include the following checks:
Temperature at occurrence (cold, hot, both)

Dynamic conditions (acceleration, deceleration, upshift, cornering)
Elements in use when condition occurs (what gear is transmission in during condition)
Road and weather conditions
Any other useful diagnostic information.
After noting all conditions, check the easily accessible variables:
Fluid level and condition

Shift cable adjustment
Diagnostic trouble code inspection
Then perform a road test to determine if the problem has been corrected or that more diagnosis is necessary. If
the problem exists after the preliminary tests and corrections are completed, hydraulic pressure checks should
be performed.
FLUID LEAKAGE
FLUID LEAKAGE - TORQUE CONVERTER HOUSING AREA
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Fig. 11: Fluid Leakage Paths

1 - PUMP SEAL
2 - PUMP VENT
3 - PUMP BOLT
4 - PUMP GASKET
5 - CONVERTER HOUSING
6 - CONVERTER
7 - REAR MAIN SEAL LEAK
When diagnosing converter housing (5) fluid leaks, three actions must be taken before repair:
1. Verify proper transmission fluid level.

2. Verify that the leak originates from the converter housing area and is transmission fluid.
3. Determine the true source of the leak.
Fluid leakage at or around the torque converter area may originate from an engine oil leak (7). The area should
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be examined closely. Factory fill fluid is red and, therefore, can be distinguished from engine oil. See Fig. 11.
Some suspected converter housing fluid leaks may not be leaks at all. They may only be the result of residual
fluid in the converter housing, or excess fluid spilled during factory fill, or fill after repair. Converter housing
leaks have several potential sources. Through careful observation, a leak source can be identified before
removing the transmission for repair.
Pump seal (1) leaks tend to move along the drive hub and onto the rear of the converter. Pump o-ring or pump
body leaks follow the same path as a seal leak. Pump attaching bolt (3) leaks are generally deposited on the
inside of the converter housing (5) and not on the converter itself. Pump seal (1) or gasket (4) leaks usually
travel down the inside of the converter housing. See Fig. 11.
TORQUE CONVERTER LEAKAGE
Fig. 12: Outside Diameter Weld, Torque Converter Hub Weld, Starter Ring Gear & Lug
1 - OUTSIDE DIAMETER WELD

2 - TORQUE CONVERTER HUB WELD
3 - STARTER RING GEAR
4 - LUG
Possible sources of torque converter leakage are:
Torque converter weld leaks at the outside diameter weld (1). See Fig. 12
Torque converter hub weld (2).
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ROAD TEST
Prior to performing a road test, verify that the fluid level, fluid condition, and linkage adjustment have been
approved.
During the road test, the transmission should be operated in each position to check for slipping and any
variation in shifting.
If the vehicle operates properly at highway speeds, but has poor acceleration, the converter stator overrunning
clutch may be slipping. If acceleration is normal, but high throttle opening is needed to maintain highway
speeds, the converter stator clutch may have seized. Both of these stator defects require replacement of the
torque converter and thorough transmission cleaning.
Slipping clutches can be isolated by comparing the "Elements in Use" chart with clutch operation encountered
on a road test. This chart identifies which clutches are applied at each position of the selector lever.
A slipping clutch may also set a DTC and can be determined by operating the transmission in all selector
positions.
ELEMENTS IN USE AT EACH POSITION OF SELECTOR LEVER

Shift Lever INPUT CLUTCHES HOLDING CLUTCHES
Position Underdrive Overdrive Reverse 2/4 Low/Reverse
P - PARK - - - - X
R - REVERSE - - X - X
N - NEUTRAL - - - - X
OD - OVERDRIVE - - - - -
First X - - - X
Second X - - X -
Direct X X - - -
Overdrive - X - X -
D - DRIVE* - - - - -
First X - - - X
Second X - - X -
Direct X X - - -
L - LOW* - - - - -
First X - - - X
Second X - - X -
Direct X X - - -
* Vehicle upshift and downshift speeds are increased when in these selector positions.
The process of elimination can be used to detect any unit which slips and to confirm proper operation of good
units. Road test analysis can diagnose slipping units, but the cause of the malfunction cannot be determined.
Practically any condition can be caused by leaking hydraulic circuits or sticking valves.
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FLUID AND FILTER
EFFECTS OF INCORRECT FLUID LEVEL
A low fluid level allows the pump to take in air along with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause fluid pressures to
be low and develop slower than normal. If the transmission is overfilled, the gears churn the fluid into foam.
This aerates the fluid and causing the same conditions occurring with a low level. In either case, air bubbles
cause fluid overheating, oxidation, and varnish buildup which interferes with valve and clutch operation.
Foaming also causes fluid expansion which can result in fluid overflow from the transmission vent or fill tube.
Fluid overflow can easily be mistaken for a leak if inspection is not careful.
CAUSES OF BURNT FLUID
Burnt, discolored fluid is a result of overheating which has two primary causes.
1. A result of restricted fluid flow through the main and auxiliary cooler. This condition is usually the result
of a damaged main cooler, or severe restrictions in the coolers and lines caused by debris or kinked lines.
2. Heavy duty operation with a vehicle not properly equipped for this type of operation. Trailer towing or
similar high load operation will overheat the transmission fluid if the vehicle is improperly equipped.
Such vehicles should have an auxiliary transmission fluid cooler, a heavy duty cooling system, and the
engine/axle ratio combination needed to handle heavy loads.
FLUID CONTAMINATION
Transmission fluid contamination is generally a result of:
Adding incorrect fluid.

Failure to clean dipstick and fill tube when checking level.
Engine coolant entering the fluid.
Internal failure that generates debris.
Overheat that generates sludge (fluid breakdown).
Failure to replace contaminated converter after repair.
The use of non-recommended fluids can result in transmission failure. The usual results are erratic shifts,
slippage, abnormal wear and eventual failure due to fluid breakdown and sludge formation. Avoid this
condition by using recommended fluids only.
The dipstick cap and fill tube should be wiped clean before checking fluid level. Dirt, grease and other foreign
material on the cap and tube could fall into the tube if not removed beforehand. Take the time to wipe the cap
and tube clean before withdrawing the dipstick.
Engine coolant in the transmission fluid is generally caused by a cooler malfunction. The only remedy is to
replace the radiator as the cooler in the radiator is not a serviceable part. If coolant has circulated through the
transmission, an overhaul is necessary.
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The torque converter should be replaced whenever a failure generates sludge and debris. This is necessary
because normal converter flushing procedures will not remove all contaminants.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
TRANSMISSION FILL
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
1. Remove dipstick and insert clean funnel in transmission fill tube.

2. Add following initial quantity of Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid, to transmission:
 If only fluid and filter were changed, add 6 pints (3 quarts) of ATF +4 to transmission.
 If transmission was completely overhauled, or torque converter was replaced or drained, add 10
pints (5 quarts) of ATF +4 to transmission.
3. Apply parking brakes.
4. Start and run engine at normal curb idle speed.
5. Apply service brakes, shift transmission through all gear ranges then back to NEUTRAL, set parking
brake, and leave engine running at curb idle speed.
6. Remove funnel, insert dipstick and check fluid level. If level is low, add fluid to bring level to MIN
mark on dipstick. Check to see if the oil level is equal on both sides of the dipstick. If one side is
noticably higher than the other, the dipstick has picked up some oil from the dipstick tube. Allow the oil
to drain down the dipstick tube and re-check.
7. Drive vehicle until transmission fluid is at normal operating temperature.
8. With the engine running at curb idle speed, the gear selector in NEUTRAL, and the parking brake
applied, check the transmission fluid level.
CAUTION: Do not overfill transmission, fluid foaming and shifting problems can
result.
9. Add fluid to bring level up to MAX arrow mark.
When fluid level is correct, shut engine off, release park brake, remove funnel, and install dipstick in fill tube.
FLUID LEVEL CHECK
The transmission sump has a dipstick to check oil similar to most automatic transmissions. It is located on the
left side of the engine. Be sure to wipe all dirt from dipstick handle before removing.
The torque converter fills in both the PARK and NEUTRAL positions. Place the selector lever in PARK to be
sure that the fluid level check is accurate. The engine should be running at idle speed for at least one
minute, with the vehicle on level ground. At normal operating temperature (approximately 82°C or 180°F),
the fluid level is correct if it is in the HOT region (cross-hatched area) on the oil level indicator. The fluid level
should be in COLD region at 21°C (70°F) fluid temperature. Adjust fluid level as necessary. Use only Mopar®
ATF+4, Automatic Transmission Fluid.
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FILL TUBE EQUIPPED WITH INDICATOR
Fig. 148: 42RLE Fluid Temperature Chart

NOTE: Engine and Transmission should be at normal operating temperature before

performing this procedure.
1. Start engine and apply parking brake.

2. Connect scan tool and select transmission.
3. Select sensors.
4. Read the transmission temperature value.
5. Compare the fluid temperature value with the chart.
6. Adjust transmission fluid level shown on the dipstick according to the 42RLE Fluid Temperature Chart.
See Fig. 148. Use only Mopar® ATF+4, Automatic Transmission Fluid.
7. Check transmission for leaks.
CAPPED FILL TUBE
1. Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.

2. Remove the dipstick tube cap.
WARNING: There is a risk of accident from vehicle starting off by itself when
engine running. There is a risk of injury from contusions and burns
if you insert your hands into the engine when it is started or when it
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is running. Secure vehicle to prevent it from moving off by itself.

Wear properly fastened and close-fitting work clothes. Do not touch
hot or rotating parts.
3. Actuate the service brake. Start engine and let it run at idle speed in selector lever position "P".
4. Shift through the transmission modes several times with the vehicle stationary and the engine idling
5. Warm up the transmission, wait at least 2 minutes and check the oil level with the engine running. Push
the Oil Dipstick 9336 into transmission fill tube until the dipstick tip contacts the oil pan and pull out
again, read off oil level, repeat if necessary.
NOTE: The dipstick will protrude from the fill tube when installed.
Fig. 149: NAG1 Transmission Fill Graph

6. Check transmission oil temperature using the appropriate scan tool.
NOTE: The true transmission oil temperature can only be read by a scan tool in
REVERSE or any forward gear position.
7. The transmission Oil Dipstick 9336 has indicator marks every 10mm. Determine the height of the oil
level on the dipstick and using the height, the transmission temperature, and the Transmission Fluid
Graph, determine if the transmission oil level is correct.
8. Add or remove oil as necessary and recheck the oil level.
9. Once the oil level is correct, install the dipstick tube cap.
FLUID/FILTER SERVICE
NOTE: Only fluids of the type labeled Mopar® ATF+4, Automatic Transmission Fluid,
should be used in the transmission sump. A filter change should be made at the
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time of the transmission oil change. The magnet (on the inside of the oil pan)
should also be cleaned with a clean, dry cloth.
NOTE: If the transmission is disassembled for any reason, the fluid and filter should be
changed.
1. Raise vehicle on a hoist. Place a drain container with a large opening, under transmission oil pan.
Fig. 150: Locating Oil Pan Bolts & Pressure Ports

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1 - FRONT DRIVESHAFT
2 - PRESSURE PORTS
5 - SECOND TRANSMISSION OIL PAN BOLT ON LEFT
SIDE
6 - FIRST TRANSMISSION OIL PAN BOLT
NOTE: One of the oil pan bolts (5) has a sealing patch applied from the factory.
Separate this bolt for reuse.
2. Loosen pan bolts and tap the pan at one corner to break it loose allowing fluid to drain, then remove the
oil pan.
3. Install a new filter and o-ring on bottom of the valve body and tighten retaining screws to 5 N.m (45 in.
lbs.).
NOTE: Before installing the oil pan bolt (5) in the bolt hole located between the
torque converter clutch on and U/D clutch pressure tap circuits, it will be
necessary to replenish the sealing patch on the bolt using Mopar® Lock &
Seal Adhesive. See Fig. 150.
4. Clean the oil pan and magnet. Reinstall pan using new Mopar® Silicone Adhesive sealant. Tighten oil
pan bolts to 20 N.m (14.5 ft. lbs.).
5. Pour four quarts of Mopar® ATF+4, Automatic Transmission Fluid, through the dipstick opening.
6. Start engine and allow to idle for at least one minute. Then, with parking and service brakes applied,
move selector lever momentarily to each position, ending in the park or neutral position.
7. Check the transmission fluid level and add an appropriate amount to bring the transmission fluid level to
3mm (1/8 in.) below the lowest mark on the dipstick.
8. Recheck the fluid level after the transmission has reached normal operating temperature, 82°C (180°F).
9. To prevent dirt from entering transmission, make certain that dipstick is fully seated into the dipstick
opening.
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INSTALLATION
Fig. 83: Checking Torque Converter Seating

1 - SCALE
2 - STRAIGHTEDGE
1. Check torque converter hub and hub drive flats for sharp edges burrs, scratches, or nicks. Polish the hub
and flats with 320/400 grit paper and crocus cloth if necessary. Verify that the converter hub o-ring is
properly installed and is free of any debris. The hub must be smooth to avoid damaging pump seal at
installation.
2. If a replacement transmission is being installed, transfer any components necessary, such as the manual
shift lever and shift cable bracket, from the original transmission onto the replacement transmission.
3. Lubricate oil pump seal lip with transmission fluid.
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4. Align converter and oil pump.

5. Carefully insert converter in oil pump. Then rotate converter back and forth until fully seated in pump
gears.
6. Check converter seating with steel scale (1) and straightedge (2). Surface of converter lugs should be at
least 13mm (1/2 in.) to rear of straightedge when converter is fully seated. See Fig. 83.
7. Temporarily secure converter with C-clamp.

8. Position transmission on jack and secure it with chains.

9. Check condition of converter driveplate. Replace the plate if cracked, distorted or damaged. Also be sure
transmission dowel pins are seated in engine block and protrude far enough to hold transmission in
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alignment.
10. Apply a light coating of MOPAR® High Temp Grease to the torque converter hub pocket in the rear
pocket of the engine's crankshaft.
11. Raise transmission and align the torque converter with the drive plate and transmission converter housing
with the engine block.
12. Move transmission forward. Then raise, lower or tilt transmission to align the converter housing with
engine block dowels.
13. Carefully work transmission forward and over engine block dowels until converter hub is seated in
crankshaft. Verify that no wires, or the transmission vent hose, have become trapped between the engine
block and the transmission.
14. Install two bolts to attach the transmission to the engine.
15. Install remaining torque converter housing to engine bolts. Tighten to 68 N.m (50 ft.lbs.).
16. Install transfer case, if equipped. Tighten transfer case nuts to 35 N.m (26 ft.lbs.).
17. Install rear transmission crossmember. Tighten crossmember to frame bolts to 68 N.m (50 ft.lbs.).
18. Install rear support to transmission. Tighten bolts to 47 N.m (35 ft.lbs.).
19. Lower transmission onto crossmember and install bolts attaching transmission mount to crossmember.
Tighten clevis bracket to crossmember bolts to 47 N.m (35 ft.lbs.). Tighten the clevis bracket to rear
support bolt to 68 N.m (50 ft.lbs.).
20. Remove engine support fixture.
21. Connect gearshift cable to support bracket and transmission manual lever.
22. Connect input (1) and output speed sensor (3) wires.
23. Connect wires to the transmission range sensor (3).
24. Connect wires to the Variable Line Pressure (VLP) electrical connector.
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Fig. 85: Identifying Solenoid/Pressure Switch Assembly

1 - SOLENOID/PRESSURE SWITCH ASSEMBLY

CONNECTOR
25. Connect wires to the solenoid/pressure switch assembly (1). See Fig. 85.
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Fig. 86: Removing/Installing Exhaust Flange Bolts

1 - EXHAUST FLANGE BOLTS
CAUTION: It is essential that correct length bolts be used to attach the converter
to the driveplate. Bolts that are too long will damage the clutch
surface inside the converter.
26. Install torque converter-to-driveplate bolts. Tighten bolts to 88 N.m (65 in. lbs.).
27. Install starter motor and cooler line bracket.
28. Connect cooler lines to transmission.
29. Install transmission fill tube.
30. Install exhaust components (1). See Fig. 86.
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Fig. 87: Identifying Skid plate, Transmission Crossmember & Frame Rails
1 - SKID PLATE
2 - TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER
3 - FRAME RAILS
31. Align and connect propeller shaft(s).

32. Adjust gearshift cable if necessary.
33. Install any skid plates removed previously (1). See Fig. 87. Refer to INSTALLATION .
34. Lower vehicle.
35. Fill transmission with Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid.
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REMOVAL
Fig. 13: Identifying Skid plate, Transmission Crossmember & Frame Rails
1 - SKID PLATE
3 - FRAME RAILS

2. Raise and support the vehicle
3. Remove any necessary skid plates (1). See Fig. 13. Refer to REMOVAL .
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4. Mark propeller shaft and axle companion flanges for assembly alignment.
5. Remove the rear propeller shaft. Refer to REMOVAL .
6. Remove the front propeller shaft, if necessary. Refer to REMOVAL .
7. Disconnect wires from the input and output speed sensors (1, 2).
8. Disconnect wires from the transmission range sensor (3).
9. Disconnect wires from the Variable Line Pressure (VLP) electrical connector.
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Fig. 15: Identifying Solenoid/Pressure Switch Assembly

1 - SOLENOID/PRESSURE SWITCH ASSEMBLY

CONNECTOR
10. Disconnect wires from the solenoid/pressure switch assembly (1). See Fig. 15.
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Fig. 16: Removing/Installing Exhaust Flange Bolts

1 - EXHAUST FLANGE BOLTS
11. Remove the bolts (1) holding the exhaust crossover pipe to the pre-catalytic converter pipe flanges. See
Fig. 16.
12. Remove the bolts holding the exhaust crossover pipe to the catalytic converter flange.
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Fig. 17: Rear Transmission Mount & Crossmember

1 - CROSSMEMBER
2 - REAR TRANSMISSION MOUNT
13. Disconnect gearshift cable from transmission manual valve lever.

14. Disengage the shift cable from the cable support bracket.
15. Remove the starter motor.
16. Remove the engine to transmission collar.
17. Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one at a
time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on dampener bolt.
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18. Disconnect the transmission vent hose from the transmission.

19. Remove transfer case.
20. Support rear of engine with safety stand or jack.
21. Raise transmission slightly with service jack to relieve load on crossmember and supports.
22. Remove bolts securing rear support and cushion (2) to transmission and crossmember (1). See Fig. 17.
23. Remove bolts attaching crossmember to frame and remove crossmember.
24. Disconnect transmission fluid cooler lines at transmission fittings and clips.
25. Remove all remaining converter housing bolts.
26. Carefully work transmission and torque converter assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
27. Hold torque converter in place during transmission removal.
28. Lower transmission and remove assembly from under the vehicle.
29. To remove torque converter, carefully slide torque converter out of the transmission.
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2007 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION NAG1 - Service Information - Nitro
NAG1

1. Check for latest level TCM
software. Perform the TCM
1. Transmission adaptation/calibration.
adaptation procedure. Refer to
2. Check TCM for DTCs. Repair
2. Transmission in limp-home mode.
as needed.
3. Check engine mounts,
transmission mount, driveshaft
3. Driveline lash/movement. couplings, rear crossmember
mounts, axle mounts and axle
lash.
Harsh N-D Engagement or 4. Perform converter clutch
Harsh N-R Engagement diagnostics test. Inspect valve
4. Converter clutch or lock up control body for stuck or sticky lock up
valve malfunction. control valve. If valve motion is
free, replace lock up solenoid and
retest.
5. Inspect valve body for stuck or
5. Valve Body Malfunction.
sticky regulator valve.
6. Clutch or planetary component 6. Remove, disassemble and
damage. repair transmission as necessary.
7. Perform TSB, recommend to
7. Water in Trans. split and clean VB if heavily
contaminated.
2. If vehicle moves normally after
2. Torque converter fluid drain back, 3 seconds of shifting into gear, no
delayed soft engagement. repair is necessary. If longer,
inspect pump for worn bushing.
DELAYED N-D OR N-R
ENGAGEMENT 3. Check and adjust fluid level.
3. Fluid Level Low. See STANDARD
PROCEDURE.
4. Check TC out pressure, if <
4. Filter plugged. 10psi, check for plugged filter.
Replace if needed.
5. Filter damaged or missing, missing 5. Check for damaged/missing
o-ring. filter or cut/missing o-ring.
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6. Inspect valve body for

6. Valve Body Malfunction. stuck/sticky regulator valve or
shift group valves.
7. Inspect pump for damage or
7. Oil pump gears worn/damaged. excessive clearances. Replace if
needed.
1. Inspect shift system. Adjust
1. Misadjusted/damaged shift cable. and/or replace worn/damaged
parts.
2. Check and adjust fluid level.
2. Fluid level low. See STANDARD
PROCEDURE.
3. Check TC out pressure, if <
3. Filter plugged. 10psi, check for plugged filter.
Replace if needed.
4. Filter damaged or missing, missing 4. Check for damaged/missing
filter o-ring. filter or cut/missing o-ring.
5. Remove Electrohydraulic Unit.
Inspect or sticky/stuck regulator
valve. If valve motion is free,
5 Hydraulic system-Low/no line replace line pressure solenoid and
pressure. retest. If condition still exists
check for worn/damaged pump.
Replace pump assembly if
needed.
NO DRIVE OR REVERSE
ENGAGEMENT (vehicle 6. TCM in Limp Mode 6. Clear codes and reset.
will not move) 7. Split Electrohydraulic Unit t
and inspect pressure regulator
valve. Remove debris if present.
7. Stuck Pressure Regulator Valve
Be certain all shift valves are free,
if any valve can't be freed replace
Electrohydraulic Unit.
8. Replace Hard Parts as
8. Broken Weld at Front Annulus
Necessary.
9. Replace Hard Parts as
9. Broken Input Shaft Weld
Necessary.
10. Replace T/C, make sure filter
10. Defective T/C
is not clogged.
11. Broken Output Shaft Weld 11. Replace parts as necessary
12. Broken/Missing Rear Annulus
12. Replace parts as necessary.
Weld.
13. Unseated Rear Annulus Gear snap 13. Properly install or replace
ring. snap ring.
Split Electrohydraulic Unit and
inspect 3-4 command valve as
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well as all other valves, being

14. Valves not returned to their home
certain they move freely and are
position.
free of debris.
SHUDDER GARAGE STANDARD PROCEDURE .
SHIFT R-D OR D-R
2. Instruct customer to wait until
2. Customer applying throttle while
shift is complete prior to applying
shift is in progress.
throttle.
HARSH ROLLING
2. Instruct customer to only shift
GARAGE SHIFT R-D OR
2. Customer shifting into desired range into the desired range with the
D-R
with vehicle motion. vehicle stopped and the service
brake applied.
as needed.
Inspect for and repair any short,
1. TCC Solenoid Wire in Harness.
ground, or open.
2. TCC Solenoid Defective, Bent
Check for codes, refer to
Terminals or Debris Shorting
Diagnostic and testing.
Terminals.
Remove the TCC Solenoid and
ENGINE STALLS 3. Debris sticking the TCC Solenoid try to blow air through it. No air
Open. should flow. If air flows freely,
replace the TCC Solenoid.
Split the Electrohydraulic Unit
and inspect the TCC LU valve for
4. TCC LU Control Valve Stuck. any debris. Remove debris if
present. If valve can't be freed
replace Electrohydraulic Unit.
1. Perform converter clutch
diagnostics test. Inspect valve
ENGINE STALLS WHEN 1. Converter clutch or lock up control body for stuck or sticky lock up
TRANSMISSION IS valve malfunction. control valve. If valve motion is
SHIFTED INTO R OR D. free, replace lock up solenoid and
retest.
2. Defective torque converter. 2. Replace torque converter.
1. Stick-slip condition between output
CLUNK/CLICK NOISE
flange and output shaft nut upon torque
DURING GARAGE SHIFT 1. Replace output flange and nut.
reversal from R to D or D to R. Click
FROM R-D OR D-R
on first launch.
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2. Inspect valve body for
HARSH UPSHIFT OR sticky/stuck valves. Repair as
DOWNSHIFT needed. If valve motion is free,
2. Electrohydraulic Unit malfunction.
replace shift pressure solenoid
and line pressure solenoid and
retest.
3. Remove, disassemble and
3. Damaged or misbuilt clutch.
repair transmission as needed.
2. Change fluid per service
2. Fluid condition, contamination or
information procedures. See
EMCC SHUDDER wrong type.
STANDARD PROCEDURE.
AND/OR ROUGH SHIFTs
3. Remove Electrohydraulic Unit.
Inspect for sticky/stuck lock up
3. Electrohydraulic Unit malfunction. control valve. If valve motion is
free, replace the lock up solenoid
and retest.
4. Defective torque converter. 4. Replace torque converter.
1. Dust shield bent. Replace if
1. Torque converter bolts contacting needed. Torque converter bolt
GRATING OR SCRAPING dust shield. backed out. Replace with new
NOISE PROPORTIONAL bolt and torque to proper level.
TO ENGINE SPEED
2. Inspect driveplate. Replace if
2. Damaged/broken drive plate.
needed.
1. Check driveshaft, center
1. Driveshaft or rear axle noise. bearing and axle for noise or
GRATING OR SCRAPING contact with other components.
NOISE PROPORTIONAL
2. Replace output bearing and
TO TRANSMISSION 2. Transmission output bearing noise.
retest.
OUTPUT SPEED
3. Remove, disassemble and
3. Internal transmission damage.
repair transmission as needed.
PROCEDURE.
as needed.
3. Filter plugged. 3. Check TC out pressure, if <

10psi, check for plugged filter.
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Replace if needed.
4. Check for damaged/missing
4. Filter damaged or missing.
filter or cut/missing o-ring.
HIGH PITCHED 5. Visually inspect for worn or
WHINE/NOISE RELATED 5. Oil pump bushing worn/damaged. damaged pump bushing. Replace
TO ENGINE SPEED pump assembly if needed.
6. Inspect for worn or damaged
6. Oil pump gears worn/damaged. pump gears. Replace pump
assembly if needed.
NOISE ONLY IN 1ST OR 1. Broken Tab on K1/K2 Thrust
Replace K1/K2 Thrust bearing.
5TH GEAR bearing.
1. Replace F1 ORC, B1 Retainer
1. Failed F1 ORC. See OPERATION.
and K1 Retainer.
FLARES ON THE 1 - 2 2. Split Electrohydraulic Unit and
SHIFT inspect 1-2/4-5 valves. Remove
2. Stuck 1-2/4-5 valve. debris if present. If valve can't be
freed replace Electrohydraulic
Unit.
1. K1 Belleville retainer snap
rings may become unseated.
Disassemble trans and re-seat
BUMPSHIFT ON 2-1
1. K1 belleville retainer snap ring. snap ring. Verify there are no
DOWNSHIFT
stuck 1-2/4-5 shift valves in the
Electrohydaulic unit prior to
removing the trans.
1. Replace Input Shaft Assembly.
This issue can be verified by
making immediate repeated shifts
1.K2 Piston Bottomed Out. between 2nd and 3rd. If the flare
is eliminated on subsequent shifts
to 3rd, It is likely that this is the
issue.
2. Replace F2 ORC, Rear Sun
2. Failed F2 ORC. See OPERATION.
Gear and Front Sun Gear
FLARES ON THE 2-3 3. Split Electrohydraulic Unit and
SHIFT inspect 2-3 valves. Remove debris
3. Stuck 2-3 Valves.
if present. If valve can't be freed
replace Electrohydraulic Unit.
4. Inspect and if damaged replace
4. K2 Clutch Slipping.
K2 Clutch Discs and Seals.
5. It is possible that when the steel

cover plate was screwed to the
Electrohydraulic Unit, the spring
was pinched thus deforming the
bore and sticking the valve.
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Remove the Electrohydraulic Unit

and remove the steel plate
covering the 2-3 shift pressure
5. 2-3 Shift Pressure Valve Spring valve. If the valve can't be freely
Deformed. removed from the bore, the spring
was pinched and the
Electrohydraulic Unit requires
replacement.
6. Replace B1 retainer and input
6. B1 bushing missing.
shaft.
PROCEDURE.
SLIPS ON 2-3 UPSHIFT
4. Check for sticky/stuck 2-3 shift
4. Valve body malfunction.
pressure valve or regulator valve.
5. Disassemble transmission,
5. F2 or B2 clutch damaged. inspect for damaged F2 or B2
clutch. Repair as needed.
1. Split Electrohydraulic Unit and
remove the 3-4 Shift Pressure and
1. Debris sticking the 3-4 Holding
3-4 Holding Valves. Flush the
Valve
valves and bores with a solvent
such as mineral spirits. (Note:
Debris can be a very small sliver
unnoticable unless flushing onto
2. Debris Sticking the 3-4 Shift
FLARE OR NEUTRALS filter paper.) Only if the valve can
Pressure Valve
ON THE 3-4/4-3 SHIFT not be freed should the
Electrohydraulic Unit be replaced.
3. Split the Electrohydraulic Unit
and inspect and verify that there is
3. Two Plastic Check Balls in one only one plastic check ball in each
pocket. of the 4 pockets. If there are two
in any pocket, remove one and re-
assemble.
1. Disassemble the transmission,
SLIPS, BANGS INTO remove the pump and gears from
GEAR, DELAYED the bell housing. Inspect the pump
1. Casting Void in the Bell Housing.
ENGAGEMENT, VENT gear face in the bell housing for a
TUBE LEAK 3/16" diameter void between the
pump suction and drainback
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circuits. If void is present, replace

the bell housing.
PROCEDURE.
SLIPS ON 3-4 UPSHIFT 3. Check for damaged/missing
4. Check for sticky/stuck 3 - 4
4. Valve body malfunction. shift pressure valve or regulator
valve.
5. K3 or B2 clutch damaged. inspect for damaged K3 or B2
PROCEDURE.
SLIPS ON 4-5 UPSHIFT 3. Check for damaged/missing
4. Check for sticky/stuck 1 -2/4- 5
4. Electrohydraulic Unit malfunction. shift pressure valve or regulator
valve.
5. B1 or K1 clutch damaged. inspect for damaged B1 or K1
IN-GEAR SHUDDER ON PROCEDURE.
HEAVY ACCELERATION
1. Customer shifting into N at vehicle 1. Instruct the customer that they
speeds greater than 25 mph and tipping should not shift into N at vehicle
NO DRIVE in on the throttle. speeds greater 25 mph.
ENGAGEMENT
FOLLOWING A SHIFT 2. Inspect shift system for proper
TO N adjustment or damage. Check
2. Shift system malfunction.
shifter for DTCs. Repair as
needed.
1. Instruct customer that R shifter
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1. Customer shifting into R at vehicle position is blocked at vehicle

REVERSE GEAR speeds greater than 7 mph. speeds greater than 7 mph.
POSITION BLOCKED
ENGAGEMENT WHEN 2. Inspect shift system for proper
MOVING SHIFT LEVER 2. Shift system malfunction. adjustment or damage. Check
FROM D POSITION shifter for DTCs. Repair as
needed.
1. Gearshift cable adjustment. 1. Adjust shift cable and retest.
2. Check shifter DTCs. Inspect
shift cable and lever assembly.
2. Shift system malfunction.
Adjust and/or replace
NO ENGINE CRANKING
worn/damaged parts.
IN P OR N
3. Starter lockout contact
malfunction. Remove valve body,
3. Valve body malfunction.
replace lead frame assembly. See
OPERATION.
INCORRECT
Verify proper temperature sensor
TRANSMISSION 1. Defective Trans Temp Sensor.
operation.
TEMPERATURE
1. Disconnect, inspect, and
1. Loose/Corroded TCM Connector reconnect TCM connector. Make
(Both C1 and C2 Connectors). sure to check for any pushed out
pins.
2. Remove the Electrohydraulic
Unit connector and inspect for
any oil or damaged pins. (Note:
2. Unlatched Electrohydraulic Unit There is no Electrohydraulic Unit
connector. connector pin in position #5) Re-
SPEED SENSOR ERROR attach the connector and insure
that the locking ring tab is fully
latched.
3. Ohm the speed sensor wires to
make sure there is not a short to
3. Wires Shorted or Open. another circuit or ground.
Visually inspect for any chafing
of the wires. Repair as necessary.
4. After checking the wiring and
4. TCM Defective.
connectors replace the TCM.
1. Check bolt torque on internal
bell housing bolts. If loose,
replace fastener and torque to
1. Leak in area of bell housing. proper level. If bolts are to proper
torque level, check pump outer
seal and impeller seal. Replace if
needed.
2. Check connector for damaged
2. Leak in area of control unit (valve (cut), flattened or missing o-rings.
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body) electrical connector. Replace as needed.

3. Check for proper torque on oil
pan clamps. Check for mis-
3. Leak in area of pan gasket.
positioned or rolled gasket.
Repair as needed.
4. Remove park guide plug.
Check for damaged (cut) or
4. Leak in area of park guide plug.
missing o-ring. If o-ring is in
good condition, install new plug.
5. Check for damaged shift lever
5. Leak in area of shift lever. seal or damaged lever. Repair as
needed.
6. Check for worn/damaged
slinger seal and output seal.
6. Leak in area of output flange. Visually inspect output flange
seal surface for damage. Repair as
FLUID LEAK needed.
7. Check fluid level for overfill
condition. Adjust as needed. If
fluid level is within specification,
ride check vehicle. Monitor
transmission temperature. If high
operating temperatures are
7. Leak in area of transmission vent.
observed, fluid may be
contaminated or cooling system
malfunctioning. Change fluid per
service information procedures.
Refer to cooling system
diagnostics if needed.
8. Inspect fill tube cap for proper
installation. Inspect fill tube
8. Leak in area of transmission fill tube. grommet between case and fill
tube for leakage. Repair as
needed.
GENERAL CONDITIONS
CAUTION: Before attempting any repair on a NAG1 automatic transmission, check for
Diagnostic Trouble Codes with the appropriate scan tool.
Transmission malfunctions may be caused by these general conditions:
Poor engine performance.

Improper adjustments.
Hydraulic malfunctions.
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Mechanical malfunctions.
Electronic malfunctions.
Transfer case performance (if equipped).
Diagnosis of these problems should always begin by checking the easily accessible variables: fluid level and
condition, gearshift cable adjustment. Then perform a road test to determine if the problem has been corrected
or if more diagnosis is necessary.
PRELIMINARY - NAG1
Two basic procedures are required. One procedure for vehicles that are drivable and an alternate procedure for
disabled vehicles (will not back up or move forward).
VEHICLE IS DRIVABLE
1. Check for transmission fault codes using the appropriate scan tool.
2. Adjust gearshift cable if complaint was based on delayed, erratic, or harsh shifts.
3. Road test and note how transmission upshifts, downshifts, and engages.
VEHICLE IS DISABLED
1. Check for broken or disconnected gearshift cable.

2. Check for cracked, leaking cooler lines, or loose or missing pressure-port plugs.
4. Check shifter linkage: Is cable connected to lever at transmission and does the lever move with gear
change on the console shifter? If no movement, repair shift cable and or shifter.
5. With shifter in Park, attempt to rotate drive shaft(s) to ensure transmission output shaft coupler/flange is
secure.
6. Check the transfer case operation (if equipped).
7. Raise and support vehicle on safety stands, start engine with transmission in Park position and allow to
idle for several minutes, shift transmission into gear, and note following:
 If propeller shaft turns but wheels do not, problem is with differential or axle shafts.
 If propeller shaft does not turn and transmission is noisy, stop engine. Remove oil pan, and check
for debris. If pan is clear, remove transmission and check for damaged driveplate, converter, oil
pump, or input shaft.
 If propeller shaft does not turn and transmission is not noisy, perform hydraulic-pressure test to
determine if problem is hydraulic or mechanical.
8. Air pressure test the B1, K3, and B2 clutch circuits. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
9. Check the TCM, Wiring, Valve body, and Solenoids (Utilize fault codes to diagnose if available).
10. Remove oil pan and check filter presence and condition (not plugged and seated).
11. If debris is found in the pan, tear down transmission and inspect all hard parts, Front Annulus Gear and
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Gear to Retainer and Input Shaft (Shaft to Retainer) etc. , and clutches. If the hard parts did not show
signs of damage replace the torque converter and filter.
12. Remove valve body, disassemble, and inspect Line Pressure Regulating valve for being stuck, clean and
remove debris.
13. Check pump rotor for failed inner lugs that are driven by the T/C hub.
ROAD TESTING - NAG1
Before road testing, be sure the fluid level and control cable adjustments have been checked and adjusted if
necessary. Verify that all diagnostic trouble codes have been resolved.
Observe engine performance during the road test. A poorly tuned engine will not allow accurate analysis of
transmission operation.
Operate the transmission in all gear ranges. Check for shift variations and engine flare which indicates slippage.
Note if shifts are harsh, spongy, delayed, early, or if part throttle downshifts are sensitive.
Slippage indicated by engine flare, usually means clutch, overrunning clutch, or line pressure problems.
A slipping clutch can often be determined by comparing which internal units are applied in the various gear
ranges. The Clutch Application chart provides a basis for analyzing road test results.
CLUTCH APPLICATION
GEAR RATIO B1 B2 B3 K1 K2 K3 F1 F2
1 3.59 X* X - - - X* X X
2 2.19 - X - X - X* - X
3 1.41 - X - X X - - -
4 1.00 - - - X X X - -
5 0.83 X - - - X X X* -
N N/A X - - - - X - -
R 3.16 X* - X - - X X -
R - Limp 1.93 X X X
In or
4WD
Low
Range
* = The shift components required during coast.
AIR CHECKING TRANSMISSION CLUTCH OPERATION
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Fig. 26: NAG1 Clutch Application Ports

1 - K1 CLUTCH APPLY PORT

2 - B1 CLUTCH APPLY PORT
4 - TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH APPLY PORT
6 - B2 CLUTCH COUNTER-PRESSURE PORT
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Fig. 27: NAG1 Air Adapter Plates

1 - NAG1 AIR CHECK ADAPTER PLATE 10007-1

2 - NAG1 AIR CHECK ADAPTER PLATE 10007-2
3 - B3 CLUTCH PORT
4 - K3 CLUTCH PORT
5 - B2 CLUTCH PORT
6 - K1 CLUTCH PORT
7 - B1 CLUTCH PORT
8 - K2 CLUTCH PORT
9 - TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH LOCK - UP PORT
10 - TORQUE CONVERTER IN PORT
11 - COOLER OUT PORT
12 - TORQUE CONVERTER OUT PORT
With the use of Air Adapter Plates 10007-1,10007-2, air-pressure testing can be used to check transmission
clutch operation. The test can be conducted with the transmission either in the vehicle (where applicable) or on
the work bench, as a final check.
Air-pressure testing requires that the oil pan and valve body be removed from the transmission.
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Fig. 28: NAG1 Transmission Adapter Plate

1 - AIR ADAPTER PLATE 10007-2

2 - AIR ADAPTER PLATE 10007-1
NOTE: The air supply which is used must be free of moisture and dirt. Use a pressure
of 30 psi to test clutch operation.
NOTE: When checking the K1 clutch , air must pass through numerous passages to
reach the clutch it's self, therefore only a slight application will be noted.
1. Remove the oil pan.

2. Remove the valve body (electrohydraulic unit). See REMOVAL.
3. Using the existing valve body (electrohydraulic unit) mounting bolts attach the Air Adapter Plates 10007-
1, 10007-2. Tighten the bolt to 8 N.m (71 in. lbs.).
4. Apply 30 psi of air pressure to each port
If the clutch is functioning, a soft thump will be heard as the clutch is applied. The clutch application can also
be felt by touching the appropriate element while applying air pressure. As the air pressure is released, the
clutch should also release.
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DISASSEMBLY
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - NAG1
NOTE: If the transmission is being reconditioned (clutch/seal replacement) or replaced,

it is necessary to perform the TCM Adaptation Procedure using the scan tool.
Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
NOTE: Tag all clutch pack assemblies, as they are removed, for reassembly
identification.
Fig. 37: Removing/Installing Torque Converter & Housing

1 - TORQUE CONVERTER
2 - CONVERTER HOUSING
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1. Remove the torque converter (1). See Fig. 37.
Fig. 38: Measuring Input Shaft End Play

1 - TOOL 8266-8
2 - TOOL 8266-18
3 - TOOL C-3339
2. Place transmission in a vertical position.

3. Measure input shaft end play as follows: See Fig. 38
 Attach Adapter 8266-18 (2) to Handle 8266-8 (1).
 Attach dial indicator C-3339 (3) to Handle 8266-8 (1).
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 Install the assembled tool onto the input shaft of the transmission and tighten the retaining screw on
Adapter 8266-18 (2) to secure it to the input shaft.
 Position the dial indicator plunger against a flat spot on the oil pump and zero the dial indicator.
 Move the input shaft in and out. Record the maximum travel for assembly reference.
Fig. 39: Removing/Installing Electrohydraulic Unit

1 - HEAT SHIELD
2 - ELECTROHYDRAULIC UNIT
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3 - BOLT
4 - OIL FILTER
5 - OIL PAN
6 - CLAMPING ELEMENT
7 - BOLT
8 - 13-PIN PLUG CONNECTOR
9 - BOLT
10 - ADAPTER PLUG
4. Loosen adapter plug bolt (9) and remove from the adapter plug (10) from the transmission housing. See
Fig. 39.
5. Detach oil pan (5). See Fig. 39.
6. Remove oil filter (4). See Fig. 39.
7. Unscrew Torx® socket bolts (3) and remove electrohydraulic unit (2).
8. Air check the transmission. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
Fig. 40: Removing/Installing Transmission Rear Output Shaft Bearing Retaining Ring
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1 - RETAINING RING
2 - OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING
9. Place the transmission in PARK to prepare for the removal of the output shaft nut.
10. Remove the nut, with a 30 mm 12 point socket, holding the propeller shaft flange to the output shaft and
remove the flange.
11. Remove the transmission rear oil seal with a suitable slide hammer and screw.
12. Remove the transmission output shaft washer. Be sure to tag the washer since it is very similar to the
geartrain end-play shim and they must not be interchanged.
13. Remove the transmission rear output shaft bearing retaining ring (1).
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Fig. 41: Bearing Remover 9082, Transmission Case & Output Shaft Bearing
1 - BEARING REMOVER 9082

14. Position Bearing Remover 9082 (1) over the inner race of the output shaft bearing (3). See Fig. 41.
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Fig. 42: Sliding Collar On Bearing Remover 9082 Downward Over Fingers Of Tool

3 - COLLAR
4 - FINGERS
NOTE: Due to production variations in the bearing, it may not be possible to slide
the collar fully downward. It is only necessary to slide the collar down far
enough that the fingers securely grasp the inner bearing race.
15. Slide the collar (3) on the Bearing Remover 9082 (1) downward over the fingers (4) of the tool. See Fig.
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42.
Fig. 43: Bearing Remover 9082, Transmission Case & Output Shaft Bearing

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16. Remove the output shaft bearing (3). See Fig. 43.
17. Remove the geartrain end-play shim from the output shaft. Be sure to tag the shim since it is very similar
to the output shaft washer and they must not be interchanged.
Fig. 44: Identifying K1, K2 and K3 Clutches

1 - DRIVING CLUTCH K1 5 - THRUST WASHER

2 - SUN GEAR OF FRONT PLANETARY 6 - FRONT PLANETARY GEAR SET,
GEAR SET DRIVING CLUTCH K2, AND INPUT SHAFT
3 - DRIVING CLUTCH K3, OUTPUT SHAFT , 7 - SEALING RINGS
AND CENTER AND REAR PLANETARY
GEAR SETS
4 - THRUST NEEDLE BEARING
18. Remove the bolts holding the transmission housing to the converter housing from inside the converter
housing.
19. Stand the transmission upright on the converter housing.
20. Remove the remaining bolts holding the transmission housing to the converter housing.
21. Remove the transmission housing from the converter housing.
22. Remove output shaft with center and rear gear set and clutch K3 (3). See Fig. 44.
23. Remove thrust needle bearing (4) and thrust washer (5). See Fig. 44.
24. Remove input shaft with clutch K2 and front gear set (6).
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25. Remove clutch K1 (1).
Fig. 45: Removing/Installing Holding Clutch B1 and Oil Pump

1 - BOLTS - M6X32 4 - BOLTS - M8X35

2 - CONVERTER HOUSING 5 - HOLDING CLUTCH B1
3 - INTERMEDIATE PLATE 6 - OIL PUMP
26. Unscrew Torx® socket bolts (4) and remove oil pump (6). Screw two opposed bolts into the oil pump
housing and press the oil pump out of the converter housing by applying light blows with a plastic
hammer. See Fig. 45.
27. Remove and discard the torque converter hub seal and the oil pump outer o-ring seal from the oil pump.
28. Unscrew Torx® socket bolts (1) and remove multiple-disc holding clutch B1 (5) from converter housing.
Screw two opposed bolts into the multiple-disc holding clutch B1 (5) and separate from the converter
housing by applying light blows with a plastic hammer. See Fig. 45.
29. Detach intermediate plate (3) from converter housing (2). See Fig. 45.
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Fig. 46: Identifying B2, B3 and Parking Gear

1 - SNAP-RING 5 - PARK GEAR

2 - HOLDING CLUTCH B3 DISCS 6 - TRANSMISSION HOUSING
3 - SPRING WASHER 7 - BOLTS - M8X60
4 - HOLDING CLUTCH B2
30. Remove multiple-disc pack B3 (2) and spring washer (3) by removing snap-ring (1) in transmission
housing. To facilitate removal of the snap-ring (1), compress the multiple-disc pack B3 (2). Note which
clutch disc is removed just prior to the spring washer (3) for re-assembly. If the clutch discs are re-used,
this disc must be returned to its original position on top of the spring washer. See Fig. 46.
31. Unscrew Torx® socket bolts (7). See Fig. 46.
32. Remove multiple-disc holding clutch B2 (4) from transmission housing. The externally toothed disc
carrier for multiple-disc holding clutch B2 is also the piston for multiple-disc holding clutch B3. See Fig.
46.
33. Remove parking lock gear (5). See Fig. 46.
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FLUID AND FILTER
DESCRIPTION
FLUID LEVEL CONTROL
Fig. 182: Gearset Chamber, Oil Gallery, Shell Of Electrohydraulic Unit, Electrohydraulic Unit, Float &
Opening
1 - GEARSET CHAMBER
2 - OIL GALLERY
3 - SHELL OF ELECTROHYDRAULIC UNIT
5 - FLOAT
6 - OPENING
The oil level control is located on the electrohydraulic unit (4) and consists of the float (5) which is integrated
into the electrohydraulic unit. The float is positioned to plug the opening (6) between the oil gallery (2) and
gearset chamber (1) so that the rotating gearsets do not splash about in oil as the oil level rises. The oil level
control reduces power loss and prevents oil from being thrown out of the transmission housing at high oil
temperatures. See Fig. 182.
OPERATION
FLUID LEVEL CONTROL
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Fig. 183: Gearset Chamber, Oil Gallery, Shell Of Electrohydraulic Unit, Electrohydraulic Unit, Float &
Opening
1 - GEARSET CHAMBER
2 - OIL GALLERY
3 - SHELL OF ELECTROHYDRAULIC UNIT
5 - FLOAT
6 - OPENING
With low oil levels, the lubricating oil which flows constantly out of the gearset, flows back to oil gallery (2)
though the opening (6) If the oil level rises, the oil presses the float (5) against the housing opening (6). The
float (5) therefore separates the oil gallery (2) from the gearset chamber (1). The lubricating oil which continues
to flow out of the gearsets is thrown against the housing wall, incorporated by the rotating parts and flows back
into the oil gallery (2) through the upper opening (arrow). See Fig. 183.
CAUSES OF BURNT FLUID
Burnt, discolored fluid is a result of overheating which has three primary causes.
Internal clutch slippage, usually caused by low line pressure, inadequate clutch apply pressure, or clutch
seal failure.
A result of restricted fluid flow through the main and/or auxiliary cooler. This condition is usually the
result of a faulty or improperly installed drainback valve, a damaged oil cooler, or severe restrictions in
the coolers and lines caused by debris or kinked lines.
Heavy duty operation with a vehicle not properly equipped for this type of operation. Trailer towing or
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similar high load operation will overheat the transmission fluid if the vehicle is improperly equipped.
Such vehicles should have an auxiliary transmission fluid cooler, a heavy duty cooling system, and the
engine/axle ratio combination needed to handle heavy loads.
EFFECTS OF INCORRECT FLUID LEVEL
A low fluid level allows the pump to take in air along with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause fluid pressures to
be low and develop slower than normal. If the transmission is overfilled, the gears churn the fluid into foam.
This aerates the fluid and causing the same conditions occurring with a low level. In either case, air bubbles
cause fluid overheating, oxidation, and varnish buildup which interferes with valve and clutch operation.
Foaming also causes fluid expansion which can result in fluid overflow from the transmission vent or fill tube.
Fluid overflow can easily be mistaken for a leak if inspection is not careful.
FLUID CONTAMINATION
Transmission fluid contamination is generally a result of:
Adding incorrect fluid

Failure to clean dipstick and fill tube when checking level
Engine coolant entering the fluid
Internal failure that generates debris
Overheat that generates sludge (fluid breakdown)
Failure to replace contaminated converter after repair
The use of non-recommended fluids can result in transmission failure. The usual results are erratic shifts,
slippage, abnormal wear and eventual failure due to fluid breakdown and sludge formation. Avoid this
condition by using recommended fluids only.
The dipstick cap and fill tube should be wiped clean before checking fluid level. Dirt, grease and other foreign
material on the cap and tube could fall into the tube if not removed beforehand. Take the time to wipe the cap
and tube clean before withdrawing the dipstick.
Engine coolant in the transmission fluid is generally caused by a cooler malfunction. The only remedy is to
replace the radiator as the cooler in the radiator is not a serviceable part. If coolant has circulated through the
transmission, an overhaul is necessary.
The torque converter should be replaced whenever a failure generates sludge and debris. This is necessary
because normal converter flushing procedures will not remove all contaminants.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
FLUID/FILTER SERVICE
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Fig. 184: Fluid/Filter Service Points

1 - OIL FILTER
2 - OIL PAN GASKET
3 - OIL PAN
4 - RETAINER
5 - BOLT
1. Run the engine until the transmission oil reaches operating temperature.
3. Remove the bolts (5) and retainers (4) holding the oil pan to the transmission. See Fig. 184.
4. Remove the transmission oil pan (3) and gasket (2) from the transmission.
5. Remove the transmission oil filter (1) and o-ring from the electrohydraulic control unit.
6. Clean the inside of the oil pan (3) of any debris. Inspect the oil pan gasket (2) and replace if necessary.
7. Install a new oil filter (1) and o-ring into the electrohydraulic control unit.
8. Install the oil pan (3) and gasket (2) onto the transmission.
9. Install the oil pan bolts (5) and retainers (4). Torque the bolts to 8 N.m (70 in.lbs.).
10. Lower the vehicle and add 5.0 L (10.6 pts.) of transmission fluid to the transmission.
11. Check the oil level. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
CHECK OIL LEVEL

WARNING: There is a risk of accident from vehicle starting off by itself when
engine running. There is a risk of injury from contusions and burns
if you insert your hands into the engine when it is started or when it
is running. Secure vehicle to prevent it from moving off by itself.
Wear properly fastened and close-fitting work clothes. Do not touch
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hot or rotating parts.
3. Actuate the service brake. Start engine and let it run at idle speed in selector lever position "P".
4. Shift through the transmission modes several times with the vehicle stationary and the engine idling
5. Warm up the transmission, wait at least 2 minutes and check the oil level with the engine running. Push
the Oil Dipstick 9336 into transmission fill tube until the dipstick tip contacts the oil pan and pull out
again, read off oil level, repeat if necessary.
NOTE: The dipstick will protrude from the fill tube when installed.
Fig. 185: NAG1 Transmission Fill Graph

6. Check transmission oil temperature using the appropriate scan tool.
NOTE: The true transmission oil temperature can only be read by a scan tool in
REVERSE or any forward gear position. See OPERATION.
7. The transmission Oil Dipstick 9336 has indicator marks every 10mm. Determine the height of the oil
level on the dipstick and using the height, the transmission temperature, and the Transmission Fluid
Graph, determine if the transmission oil level is correct. See Fig. 185.
8. Add or remove oil as necessary and recheck the oil level.
9. Once the oil level is correct, install the dipstick tube cap.
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TRANSMISSION FILL
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:

3. Add following initial quantity of Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid, to the transmission:
 If only fluid and filter were changed, add 5.0 L (10.6 pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.
 If the transmission was completely overhauled or the torque converter was replaced or drained, add
7.7 L (16.3 pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.
4. Check the transmission fluid. See STANDARD PROCEDURE, and adjust as required.
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INSTALLATION
Fig. 64: Installing Torque Converter In Transmission Housing

2 - TRANSMISSION HOUSING
1. Check torque converter hub and hub drive flats for sharp edges burrs, scratches, or nicks. Polish the hub
and flats with 320/400 grit paper and crocus cloth if necessary. Verify that the converter hub o-ring is
properly installed and is free of any debris. The hub must be smooth to avoid damaging pump seal at
installation.
2. If a replacement transmission is being installed, transfer any components necessary, such as the manual
shift lever and shift cable bracket, from the original transmission onto the replacement transmission.
4. Align converter and oil pump.
5. Carefully insert converter in oil pump. Then rotate converter back and forth until fully seated in pump
gears.
6. Check converter seating with a scale and straightedge (A). Surface of converter lugs should be at least 19
mm (3/4 in.) to rear of straightedge when converter is fully seated.
7. Temporarily secure converter with C-clamp.
8. Position transmission on jack and secure it with chains.
9. Check condition of converter flexplate. Replace the plate if cracked, distorted or damaged. Also be sure
transmission dowel pins are seated in engine block and protrude far enough to hold transmission in
alignment.
10. Apply a light coating of MOPAR® High Temp Grease to the torque converter hub pocket in the rear
pocket of the engine's crankshaft.
11. Raise transmission and align the torque converter with the flex plate and transmission converter housing
with the engine block.
12. Move transmission forward. Then raise, lower or tilt transmission to align the converter housing with
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engine block dowels.

13. Carefully work transmission forward and over engine block dowels until converter hub is seated in
crankshaft. Verify that no wires, or the transmission vent hose, have become trapped between the engine
block and the transmission.
Fig. 65: Installing Bolts To Attach Transmission To Engine

1 - ENGINE
2 - BOLTS
3 - TRANSMISSION
14. Install two bolts (2) to attach the transmission to the engine.
15. Install remaining torque converter housing to engine bolts. Tighten to 39 N.m (29 ft.lbs.).
16. Install transfer case (if equipped).
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Fig. 66: Installing Bolts Attaching Transmission Mount To Crossmember

1 - CROSSMEMBER
17. Install rear support to transmission. Tighten bolts to 47 N.m (35 ft.lbs.).
18. Lower transmission onto crossmember and install bolts attaching transmission mount to crossmember.
Tighten clevis bracket to crossmember bolts to 47 N.m (35 ft.lbs.). Tighten the clevis bracket to rear
support bolt to 68 N.m (50 ft.lbs.).
19. Remove safety stand or jack from under engine and transmission.
20. Install the flex plate bolts. Tighten the flex plate bolts to 42 N.m (31ft.lbs.)
21. Install flex plate bolt access cover.
22. Install the starter motor. Refer to INSTALLATION .
Fig. 67: Connecting Gearshift Cable To Support Bracket And Transmission Manual Lever
1 - GEARSHIFT CABLE
2 - GEARSHIFT CABLE BRACKET
3 - MANUAL SHIFT LEVER
23. Connect gearshift cable (1) to support bracket (2) and transmission manual lever (3).
24. Adjust gearshift cable if necessary.
25. Install all breather hoses.
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Fig. 68: Installing 13-Pin Plug Connector & Turning Bayonet Lock Of Adapter Plug
1 - PLUG CONNECTOR
2 - ADAPTER PLUG
26. Install 13-pin plug connector (1). Turn bayonet lock of the adapter plug (2)
27. Install the heat shield from the 13-pin connector.
28. Install 13-pin plug connector heat shield and bolts. Tighten bolts to 10 N.m (88 in.lbs.)
Fig. 69: Connecting Cooler Lines Into Transmission

1 - TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER LINES

2 - COOLER LINE FITTINGS
3 - SUPPORT CLAMPS
29. Connect cooler lines (2) into transmission.
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Fig. 70: Installing Transmission Fill Tube Heat Shield And Bolts
1 - FILL TUBE HEAT SHIELD

2 - FILL TUBE COVER BOLTS
NOTE: Inspect the fill tube grommet to determine if the grommet is new or used. If
a new fill tube grommet is in the transmission case, pierce the center of
the grommet with a ballpoint pen, or similar instrument, to prepare the
grommet for the fill tube installation.
30. Install transmission fill tube and bolt. Tighten bolts to 10 N.m (88 in.lbs.)
31. Install transmission fill tube heat (1) shield and bolts (2). Tighten bolts to 10 N.m (88 in.lbs.)
32. Align and connect rear propeller shaft. Refer to INSTALLATION .
33. Align and install front propeller shaft (if equipped). Refer to INSTALLATION .
34. Lower vehicle.
35. Install transmission filler tube bolt at valve cover.
36. Install catalytic converter onto turbocharger. Refer to INSTALLATION .
37. Raise vehicle.
38. Install catalytic converter to engine block bolts. Refer to INSTALLATION .
39. Install particulate filter pipe. Refer to INSTALLATION .
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Fig. 71: Skid Plate, Transmission Crossmember & Frame Rails

1 - SKID PLATE
3 - FRAME RAILS
40. Install any skid plates removed previously (1). Refer to INSTALLATION .
41. Lower vehicle.
43. Fill transmission with Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid.
NOTE: If the transmission is being reconditioned (clutch/seal replacement) or

replaced, it is necessary to perform the TCM Adaptation Procedure using
the scan tool.
44. Verify proper operation.
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REMOVAL
Fig. 29: Frame Rails, Skid Plate & Transmission Crossmember

1 - SKID PLATE
3 - FRAME RAILS

2. Remove transmission fill tube bolt from the valve cover.
3. Remove catalytic converter nuts at the turbocharger. Refer to REMOVAL .
5. Remove any necessary skid plates (1). See Fig. 29. Refer to REMOVAL .
6. Remove the particulate filter pipe. Refer to REMOVAL .
7. Remove catalytic converter to block mounting bolts and position aside. Refer to REMOVAL .
8. Mark propeller shaft and axle companion flanges for assembly alignment.
10. Remove the front propeller shaft, if necessary. Refer to REMOVAL .
11. Support the transmission.
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Fig. 30: Gearshift Cable, Gearshift Cable Bracket & Manual Shift Lever
1 - GEARSHIFT CABLE
2 - GEARSHIFT CABLE BRACKET
3 - MANUAL SHIFT LEVER
12. Disconnect the gearshift cable (1) from the transmission manual valve lever (3).
13. Loosen the bolts holding the shift cable retaining strap (2) to the transmission.
14. Remove the shift cable (1) from the transmission.
Fig. 31: Disconnecting 13-Pin Plug Connector & Turning Bayonet Lock Of Adapter Plug
Counterclockwise
1 - PLUG CONNECTOR
2 - ADAPTER PLUG
15. Remove the heat shield from the 13-pin connector.

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16. Disconnect 13-pin plug connector (1). Turn bayonet lock of the adapter plug (2) counterclockwise.
17. Remove the 13-pin connector (1) from the transmission.
18. Remove the starter motor from the transmission starter pocket and position aside. Refer to REMOVAL .
Fig. 32: Flex Plate Bolt Access

1 - FLEX PLATE BOLT ACCESS HOLE
19. Remove the flex plate bolt access cover.

20. With socket wrench on dampener bolt rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts are
accessible. Then remove bolts one at a time through the access hole (1).
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Fig. 33: Fill Tube Cover Bolts & Fill Tube Heat Shield
1 - FILL TUBE HEAT SHIELD

2 - FILL TUBE COVER BOLTS
21. Remove transmission fill tube heat shield bolts (2) and heat shield (1)
22. Remove the bolt from the transmission filler tube and position the tube aside.
23. Disconnect the transmission vent hose from the transmission.
24. Remove transfer case (if equipped).
25. Support rear of engine with safety stand or jack.
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Fig. 34: Crossmember & Rear Transmission Mount

1 - CROSSMEMBER
26. Raise transmission slightly with service jack to relieve load on crossmember and supports.
27. Remove bolts securing rear support and cushion (2) to transmission and crossmember (1).
28. Remove bolts attaching crossmember to frame and remove crossmember.
Fig. 35: Disconnecting Transmission Fluid Cooler Lines At Transmission Fittings And Clips
1 - TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER LINES

2 - COOLER LINE FITTINGS
3 - SUPPORT CLAMPS
29. Disconnect transmission fluid cooler lines (1) at transmission fittings (2) and clips (3).
Fig. 36: Engine, Bolts & Transmission

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1 - ENGINE
2 - BOLTS
3 - TRANSMISSION
30. Remove all remaining converter housing bolts (2).

31. Carefully work transmission and torque converter assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
32. Hold torque converter in place during transmission removal.
33. Lower transmission and remove assembly from under the vehicle.
34. To remove torque converter, carefully slide torque converter out of the transmission.
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2007 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION NAG1 - Shifter Diagnostics - Nitro
2007 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
NAG1 - Shifter Diagnostics - Nitro

DTC Description
P0562 BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW - ESM
P0563 BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH - ESM
P0607 ECU INTERNAL PERFORMANCE - ESM
P0930 BTSI CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW - ESM
P0931 BTSI CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH - ESM
P2775 AUTOSTICK UPSHIFT SWITCH CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE - ESM
P2779 AUTOSTICK DOWNSHIFT SWITCH CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE - ESM
U0002 CAN C BUS OFF PERFORMANCE - ESM
U0100 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ECM/PCM - ESM
U0121 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE - ESM
U0141 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH FRONT CONTROL MODULE - ESM
NAG1 - SHIFTER DIAGNOSTICS

P0562-BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW - ESM
Theory of Operation
The Shift Lever Assembly (SLA) controller (Electronic Shift Module - ESM) monitors ignition voltage. The
DTC will set if the monitored battery voltage drops below 6.0 volts and a temporary limp in will be activated. If
the voltage rises above 9.0 volts, normal operations is resumed.
When Monitored:
Continuously with the ignition in the run position.
Set Condition:
When monitored battery voltage drops below 6.0 volts.
Possible Causes
VEHICLE CHARGING SYSTEM
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(F1) IGNITION UNLOCK RUN START CIRCUIT

(Z910) GROUND CIRCUITS
SHIFT LEVER ASSEMBLY
Always perform the NAG1 Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding.
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR ENGINE CHARGING SYSTEM DTCS
Are there any Engine Charging System DTCs present?
Yes
Refer to appropriate Engine Electrical Diagnostics article and perform the appropriate symptom.
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST.
No
Go to 2).
2) CHECK (F1) IGNITION UNLOCK RUN START CIRCUIT
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Fig. 1: Using 12-Volt Test Light Connected To Ground To Check (F1) Ignition Unlock Run Start
Circuit In Shift Lever Assembly Harness Connector
Turn the ignition off to the lock position.
Disconnect the Shift Lever Assembly harness connector.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check the (F1) Ignition Unlock Run Start circuit in the
Shift Lever Assembly harness connector.
NOTE: The test light must illuminate brightly. Compare the brightness to that of a
direct connection to the battery.

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Yes
Go to 3).
No
Repair the (F1) Ignition Unlock Run Start circuit for high resistance.
3) CHECK (Z910) GROUND CIRCUITS
Fig. 2: Using 12-Volt Test Light Connected To 12-Volts To Check (Z910) Ground Circuit In Shift
Lever Assembly Harness Connector
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, check the (Z910) Ground circuit in the Shift Lever
Assembly harness connector.
NOTE: The test light must illuminate brightly. Compare the brightness to that of a
direct connection to the battery.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
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Repair the (Z910) Ground circuit for high resistance.

4) SHIFT LEVER ASSEMBLY
Reconnect all disconnected harness connectors.
With the scan tool, erase Shift Lever DTC's.
Start the engine and raise the engine speed to 2000 RPM.
With the scan tool, read Shift Lever DTC's.
Did the DTC P0562-BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW DTC reset?
Yes
Replace the Shift Lever Assembly per the Service Information

No
Test Complete.
P0563-BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH - ESM
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the monitored battery voltage rises above 16.0 volts.
Possible Causes
CHARGING SYSTEM DTCS
VEHICLE WAS JUMP STARTED INCORRECTLY
Always perform the NAG1 Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. See
STANDARD PROCEDURE.
The Shift Lever Assembly monitors ignition voltage. The DTC will set, if the monitored battery voltage rises
above 16.0 volts.
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Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR CHARGING SYSTEM DTCS
NOTE: This includes any one trip faults.
Are there any Engine Charging System DTCs present?
Yes
Refer to the appropriate Engine Electrical Diagnostics article and perform the appropriate
symptom.
No
Go to 2).
2) VEHICLE WAS JUMP STARTED INCORRECTLY
Verify if the vehicle was jump started by another vehicle using a 24-volt charging system or incorrectly
jump started with the 12 volt battery in series.
Was the vehicle jump started by another vehicle?
Yes
This is the cause of the DTC. Erase the DTC and return the vehicle to the customer.
No
Go to 3).
Reconnect all disconnected harness connectors.
With the scan tool, erase Shift Lever DTC's.
Start the engine and raise the engine speed to 2000 RPM.
With the scan tool, read Shift Lever DTC's.
Did the P0563-BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH DTC reset?
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Yes
Replace the Shift Lever Assembly per the Service Information

No
Test Complete.
P0607-ECU INTERNAL PERFORMANCE - ESM
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Shift Lever Assembly controller detects an invalid calibration (checksum value).
Possible Causes
SHIFTER LEVER ASSEMBLY
STANDARD PROCEDURE.
The Shift Lever Assembly (SLA) Electronic Shift Module (ESM) performs various internal tests to verify
proper controller operation. This DTC indicates that there is an issue with the Shifter's internal processor.
Diagnostic Test
1) SHIFTER LEVER ASSEMBLY
View repair
Repair
Using the schematics as a guide, check the Shift Lever Assembly Control Module terminals for
corrosion, damage, or terminal push out. Pay particular attention to all power and ground circuits. If
no problems are found, replace the Shift Lever Assembly per the Service Information.
P0930-BTSI CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW - ESM

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When Monitored:
Set Condition:
The DTC will set if the high side driver detects a short to ground for 10 seconds.
Possible Causes
ENGINE BRAKE DTCS PRESENT
ABS DTCS PRESENT
(L51) BRAKE SWITCH SIGNAL SHORT TO GROUND
STANDARD PROCEDURE.
The brake switch signal must be active before the shift lever can be moved out of the park position. The Shift
Lever Assembly (SLA) Electronic Shift Module (ESM) receives two brake switch signals. The first signal is a
CAN C Bus message sent to the shift lever assembly. The second signal is a hard wired brake switch signal to
the shift lever assembly. The CAN C Bus message is the primary brake switch signal and the hard wired signal
serves as the backup brake switch signal.
Diagnostic Test
Are there any Engine brake DTCs present?
Yes
Refer to appropriate Engine Electrical Diagnostics article and perform the appropriate diagnostic
procedure.
No
Go to 2).
2) ABS MODULE DTCS PRESENT
With the scan tool, read ABS Module DTCs.
Are there any ABS DTCs present?
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Yes
Refer to ABS ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS and perform the appropriate diagnostic procedure.
No
Go to 3).
3) (L51) BRAKE SWITCH SIGNAL SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 3: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (L51) Brake Switch Signal Circuit
NOTE: Check connectors - Clean/repair as necessary.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L51) Brake Switch Signal circuit.
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Yes
Repair the (L51) Brake Switch Signal for a short to ground.

No
Using the schematics as a guide, inspect the wiring and connectors. Repair as necessary. Pay
particular attention to all power and ground circuits. If no problems are found, replace the Shift
Lever Assembly per the Service Information.
P0931-BTSI CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH - ESM
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
The DTC will set if the high side driver detects an open load for 10 seconds.
Possible Causes
ENGINE BRAKE DTC'S PRESENT
ABS DTC'S PRESENT
(L51) BRAKE SWITCH SIGNAL OPEN
(L51) BRAKE SWITCH SIGNAL SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Always perform the NAG1 Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding.
The brake switch signal must be active before the shift lever can be moved out of the park position. The Shift
Lever Assembly (SLA) Electronic Shift Module (ESM) receives two brake switch signals. The first signal is a
CAN C Bus message sent to the shifter lever assembly. The second signal is a hard wired brake switch signal to
the shifter lever assembly. The CAN C Bus message is the primary brake switch signal and the hard wired
signal serves as the backup brake switch signal. These two brake switch signals are compared against each other
to verify proper brake switch operation.
Diagnostic Test
1) ENGINE DTCs PRESENT
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Are there any Engine brake DTCs present?
Yes
Refer to appropriate Engine Electrical Diagnostics article and perform the appropriate diagnostic
procedure.
No
Go to 2).
2) ABS MODULE DTCs PRESENT
With the scan tool, read ABS Module DTCs.
Are there any ABS DTCs present?
Yes
Refer to ABS - ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS and perform the appropriate diagnostic

procedure.
No
Go to 3).
3) (L51) BRAKE SWITCH SIGNAL OPEN
Fig. 4: Measuring Resistance Of (L51) Brake Switch Signal Circuit Between Shift Lever Assembly
Harness Connector And Stop Lamp Switch
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Disconnect the Stop Lamp Switch harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (L51) Brake Switch Signal circuit between the Shift Lever Assembly
harness connector and the Stop Lamp Switch.
Is the resistance above 5.0 ohms?
Yes
Repair the (L51) Brake Switch Signal for an open.

No
Go to 4).
4) (L51) BRAKE SWITCH SIGNAL SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 5: Measuring Voltage Of (L51) Brake Switch Signal Circuit
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Measure the voltage of the (L51) Brake Switch Signal circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L51) Brake Switch Signal for a short to voltage.

No
Replace the Shift Lever Assembly per the Service Information.

P2775-AUTOSTICK UPSHIFT SWITCH CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE - ESM
When Monitored:
Continuously with the ignition in the run position and the shift lever in AutoStick mode.
Set Condition:
When the expected switch state is not correctly sensed by the Shift Lever Assembly. If the upshift switch
signal is detected as active in gear position other than drive or both upshift and downshift signals are
active at the same time.
Possible Causes
STANDARD PROCEDURE.
The AutoStick Switch is integrated into the Shift Lever Assembly. The gear requested by the AutoStick
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selection is then sent over the CAN C bus to the TCM to engage the requested gear.
Diagnostic Test
View repair
Repair
Using the schematics as a guide, check the Shift Lever Assembly (SLA) Electronic Shift Module
(ESM) terminals for corrosion, damage, or terminal push out. Pay particular attention to all power
and ground circuits. If no problems are found, replace the Shift Lever Assembly per the Service
Information. Refer to Shift Mechanism for the appropriate service procedures.
P2779-AUTOSTICK DOWNSHIFT SWITCH CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE - ESM
When Monitored:
Continuously with the ignition in the run position and with the shift lever in AutoStick mode.
Set Condition:
When the expected switch state is not correctly sensed by the Shift Lever Assembly (SLA) Electronic
Shift Module (ESM). If the upshift switch signal is detected as active in gear position other than drive or
both upshift and downshift signals are active at the same time.
Possible Causes
STANDARD PROCEDURE.
The AutoStick Switch is integrated into the Shift Lever Assembly. The gear requested by the AutoStick
selection is then sent over the CAN C bus from the Electronic Shift Module (ESM) to the TCM to engage the
requested gear.
Diagnostic Test
View repair
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Repair
Using the schematics as a guide, check the Shift Lever Assembly (SLA) Electronic Shift Module
(ESM) terminals for corrosion, damage, or terminal push out. Pay particular attention to all power
and ground circuits. If no problems are found, replace the Shift Lever Assembly per the Service
Information.
U0002-CAN C BUS OFF PERFORMANCE - ESM
Some controllers communicate with other controllers over the CAN C BUS. The Electronic Shift Module
(ESM) continuously monitors BUS activity and reads the messages it needs. The CAN C BUS is also used to
communicate the MIL status to the Engine Controller.
For CAN BUS diagnostic procedures. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .
U0100-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ECM/PCM - ESM
U0121-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE - ESM
U0141-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH FRONT CONTROL MODULE - ESM
For a complete wiring diagram refer to appropriate Wiring Diagram article.

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STANDARD PROCEDURE
NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST
To validate that the repair(s) fixed the vehicle, perform the following steps.
1. Reconnect any disconnected components.

2. Connect the scan tool to the Data Link Connector.
3. With the scan tool, erase ABS DTCs.
4. With the scan tool, erase PCM DTCs.
5. With the scan tool, erase TCM DTCs.
CAUTION: Apply the parking brake.
NOTE: The Transmission Temperature can only be read while in Reverse or Drive.
6. With the scan tool, display the Transmission temperature. Start and run the engine until the Transmission
temperature is above 43°C (110°F).
7. If internal transmission components were repaired or replaced check the Transmission fluid and adjust if
necessary. Refer to the Service Information for the proper Fluid Fill procedure. Refer to STANDARD
PROCEDURE .
8. If the TCM (EGS) is flashed or replaced, with the scan tool, perform an EGS initialization to relearn
variant coding.
9. If internal transmission repairs are performed or replacement of the Transmission Control Module,
perform a TCM ADAPTATION procedure. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
10. After performing the above procedures, perform the Road Test Procedure.
ROAD TEST PROCEDURE
1. Road test the vehicle. Make fifteen to twenty 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, and 4-5 upshifts.
2. Perform these shifts from a standing start to 72 Km/h (45 mph) with a constant throttle opening of 20 to
25 degrees.
3. With speeds below 40 Km/h (25 mph), make five to eight wide open throttle kickdowns to 1st gear.
Allow at least 5 seconds each in 2nd and 3rd gear between each kickdown.
4. With the scan tool, read DTCs.
Did any DTCs set?
Yes
Refer to the identified category and perform the appropriate symptom(s).
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No
Testing is complete.
NAG1 PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE
Perform the following pre-diagnostic troubleshooting procedures prior to performing any diagnostic test.
NOTE: Due to different power control configurations, the Transmission Control Relay
(if equipped) may be referred to as a PCM relay.
NOTE: Incorrect fluid level, and/or poor fluid condition can be the cause of many
transmission problems. Visually inspect the transmission and cooler lines for
leakage and repair as necessary and adjust the fluid level per the Service
Information.
Always perform diagnostics with a fully charged battery to avoid false symptoms.
1. With the scan tool, read the engine DTCs. Check and repair all engine DTCs prior to performing
transmission symptom diagnostic procedures.
2. With the scan tool, read and record all Transmission DTCs. Record the controller software version and
variant ID (configuration or level).
NOTE: Check for any Service Information Tune-ups or Technical Service Bulletins
(TSB) that may apply.
NOTE: If the TCM detects and stores a DTC, the TCM also stores the vehicles
operating conditions under which the DTC originally set. This information
is located using a scan tool under Environmental Data. Before erasing any
stored DTCs, it is recommended to record all available data to assist in
troubleshooting and duplicating the conditions and in which the DTC
originally set.
3. Verify the current software level of transmission controller. Various problems are corrected by software
upgrades (flash) to the transmission controller.
NOTE: If a TCM software update is performed, all DTC information (Environmental

Data) will be lost.
4. Using the wiring diagram/schematic as a guide, inspect the wiring and connectors to all components
related to the transmission and shift lever assembly. Clean and repair as necessary.
5. Most DTCs set on start up but some may only set by driving the vehicle. Note the when monitored and
set conditions of the reported DTC. If variant DTCs are present, perform their respective test first.
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6. Verify the axle ratio and transfer case ratio.
NOTE: The Transfer case ratio must be programmed using the scan tool under
the appropriate gateway module (FCM, FDCM, and/or TIPM) even if
equipped with AWD or NO transfer case. Validate that the left to right tire
sizes on each axle are the same. Do not perform diagnostics using a
space-saver spare tire. Invalid tire sizes (right to left) may cause erroneous
DTCs to set.
Did any of the above procedures repair the vehicle?
Yes
Testing is complete.
No
Refer to the identified category and perform the appropriate symptom(s).
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CONVERTER-TORQUE
DESCRIPTION
TORQUE CONVERTER
Fig. 267: Cutaway View Of Torque Converter

1 - TURBINE
2 - IMPELLER
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3 - STATOR
4 - INPUT SHAFT
5 - STATOR SHAFT
6 - TURBINE DAMPER
CAUTION: The torque converter must be replaced if a transmission failure resulted in

large amounts of metal or fiber contamination in the fluid.
The torque converter is a hydraulic device that couples the engine crankshaft to the transmission. The torque
converter consists of an outer shell with an internal turbine (1), a stator (3), an overrunning clutch, an impeller
(2), and an electronically applied converter clutch. The converter clutch provides reduced engine speed and
greater fuel economy when engaged. Clutch engagement also provides reduced transmission fluid temperatures.
The converter clutch engages in third through fifth gears. The torque converter hub drives the transmission oil
(fluid) pump. See Fig. 267.
A turbine damper (6) has been added for some applications to help improve vehicle noise, vibration, and
harshness (NVH) characteristics.
The torque converter is a sealed, welded unit that is not repairable and is serviced as an assembly.
IMPELLER
Fig. 268: Impeller

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1 - ENGINE FLEXPLATE 4 - ENGINE ROTATION

2 - OIL FLOW FROM IMPELLER SECTION 5 - ENGINE ROTATION
INTO TURBINE SECTION
3 - IMPELLER VANES AND COVER ARE
INTEGRAL
The impeller (3) is an integral part of the converter housing. The impeller consists of curved blades placed
radially along the inside of the housing on the transmission side of the converter. As the converter housing is
rotated by the engine, so is the impeller, because they are one and the same and are the driving members of the
system. See Fig. 268.
TURBINE
Fig. 269: Turbine

1 - TURBINE VANE 4 - PORTION OF TORQUE CONVERTER

COVER
2 - ENGINE ROTATION 5 - ENGINE ROTATION
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3 - INPUT SHAFT 6 - OIL FLOW WITHIN TURBINE SECTION
The turbine (1) is the output, or driven, member of the converter. The turbine is mounted within the housing
opposite the impeller, but is not attached to the housing. The input shaft is inserted through the center of the
impeller and splined into the turbine. The design of the turbine is similar to the impeller, except the blades of
the turbine are curved in the opposite direction. See Fig. 269.
STATOR
Fig. 270: Stator Components

1 - CAM (OUTER RACE)

2 - ROLLER
3 - SPRING
4 - INNER RACE
The stator assembly (1-4) is mounted on a stationary shaft which is an integral part of the oil pump. See Fig.
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270.
Fig. 271: Stator Location

1 - STATOR
2 - IMPELLER
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3 - FLUID FLOW
4 - TURBINE
The stator (1) is located between the impeller (2) and turbine (4) within the torque converter case. See Fig. 271.
The stator contains a freewheeling clutch, which allows the stator to rotate only in a clockwise direction. When
the stator is locked against the freewheeling clutch, the torque multiplication feature of the torque converter is
operational.
TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH (TCC)
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Fig. 272: Identifying Torque Converter Components

1 - TURBINE
2 - IMPELLER
3 - STATOR
4 - INPUT SHAFT
5 - STATOR SHAFT
6 - PISTON
7 - COVER SHELL
8 - INTERNALLY TOOTHED DISC CARRIER
9 - CLUTCH PLATE SET
10 - EXTERNALLY TOOTHED DISC CARRIER
11 - TURBINE DAMPER
The TCC (9) was installed to improve the efficiency of the torque converter that is lost to the slippage of the
fluid coupling. Although the fluid coupling provides smooth, shock-free power transfer, it is natural for all fluid
couplings to slip. If the impeller and turbine were mechanically locked together, a zero slippage condition could
be obtained. A hydraulic piston with friction material was added to the turbine assembly to provide this
mechanical lock-up. See Fig. 272.
In order to reduce heat build-up in the transmission and buffer the powertrain against torsional vibrations, the
TCM can duty cycle the torque converter lock-up solenoid to achieve a smooth application of the torque
converter clutch. This function, referred to as Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch (EMCC) can occur at
various times depending on the following variables:
Shift lever position

Current gear range
Transmission fluid temperature
Engine coolant temperature
Input speed
Throttle angle
Engine speed
OPERATION
TORQUE CONVERTER
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Fig. 273: Cutaway View Of Torque Converter

1 - TURBINE
2 - IMPELLER
3 - STATOR
4 - INPUT SHAFT
5 - STATOR SHAFT
6 - TURBINE DAMPER
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The converter impeller (driving member) (2), which is integral to the converter housing and bolted to the engine
drive plate, rotates at engine speed. The converter turbine (driven member) (1), which reacts from fluid pressure
generated by the impeller, rotates and turns the transmission input shaft (4). See Fig. 273.
TURBINE
As the fluid that was put into motion by the impeller blades strikes the blades of the turbine, some of the energy
and rotational force is transferred into the turbine and the input shaft. This causes both of them (turbine and
input shaft) to rotate in a clockwise direction following the impeller. As the fluid is leaving the trailing edges of
the turbine's blades it continues in a "hindering" direction back toward the impeller. If the fluid is not redirected
before it strikes the impeller, it will strike the impeller in such a direction that it would tend to slow it down.
STATOR
Fig. 274: Stator Operation

1 - DIRECTION STATOR WILL FREE WHEEL DUE TO OIL PUSHING ON BACKSIDE OF

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VANES
2 - FRONT OF ENGINE
3 - INCREASED ANGLE AS OIL STRIKES VANES
4 - DIRECTION STATOR IS LOCKED UP DUE TO OIL PUSHING AGAINST STATOR VANES
Torque multiplication is achieved by locking the stator's over-running clutch to its shaft Under stall conditions
(the turbine is stationary), the oil leaving the turbine blades strikes the face of the stator blades and tries to rotate
them in a counterclockwise direction. When this happens the over-running clutch of the stator locks and holds
the stator from rotating. With the stator locked, the oil strikes the stator blades and is redirected into a "helping"
direction before it enters the impeller. This circulation of oil from impeller to turbine, turbine to stator, and
stator to impeller, can produce a maximum torque multiplication of about 2.0:1. As the turbine begins to match
the speed of the impeller, the fluid that was hitting the stator in such as way as to cause it to lock-up is no longer
doing so. In this condition of operation, the stator begins to free wheel and the converter acts as a fluid
coupling. See Fig. 274.
TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH (TCC)
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Fig. 275: Identifying Torque Converter Components

1 - TURBINE
2 - IMPELLER
3 - STATOR
4 - INPUT SHAFT
5 - STATOR SHAFT
6 - PISTON
7 - COVER SHELL
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8 - INTERNALLY TOOTHED DISC CARRIER

9 - CLUTCH PLATE SET
10 - EXTERNALLY TOOTHED DISC CARRIER
11 - TURBINE DAMPER
In a standard torque converter, the impeller (2) and turbine (1) are rotating at about the same speed and the
stator (3) is freewheeling, providing no torque multiplication. By applying the turbine's piston and friction
material (9), a total converter engagement can be obtained. The result of this engagement is a direct 1:1
mechanical link between the engine and the transmission. See Fig. 275.
The clutch can be engaged in second, third, fourth, and fifth gear ranges.
The TCM controls the torque converter by way of internal logic software. The programming of the software
provides the TCM with control over the torque converter solenoid. There are four output logic states that can be
applied as follows:
No EMCC
Partial EMCC
Full EMCC
Gradual-to-no EMCC
NO EMCC
Under No EMCC conditions, the TCC Solenoid is OFF. There are several conditions that can result in NO
EMCC operations. No EMCC can be initiated due to a fault in the transmission or because the TCM does not
see the need for EMCC under current driving conditions.
PARTIAL EMCC
Partial EMCC operation modulates the TCC Solenoid (duty cycle) to obtain partial torque converter clutch
application. Partial EMCC operation is maintained until Full EMCC is called for and actuated. During Partial
EMCC some slip does occur. Partial EMCC will usually occur at low speeds, low load and light throttle
situations.
FULL EMCC
During Full EMCC operation, the TCM increases the TCC Solenoid duty cycle to full ON after Partial EMCC
control brings the engine speed within the desired slip range of transmission input speed relative to engine
RPM.
GRADUAL-TO-NO EMCC
This operation is to soften the change from Full or Partial EMCC to No EMCC. This is done at mid-throttle by
decreasing the TCC Solenoid duty cycle.
REMOVAL
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TORQUE CONVERTER
1. Remove transmission and torque converter from vehicle. See REMOVAL.

2. Place a suitable drain pan under the converter housing end of the transmission.
CAUTION: Verify that transmission is secure on the lifting device or work

surface, the center of gravity of the transmission will shift when the
torque converter is removed creating an unstable condition. The
torque converter is a heavy unit. Use caution when separating the
torque converter from the transmission.
3. Pull the torque converter forward until the center hub clears the oil pump seal.
4. Separate the torque converter from the transmission.
INSTALLATION
TORQUE CONVERTER
Fig. 276: Measuring Torque Converter Installation Depth

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2 - TRANSMISSION HOUSING
Check converter hub and drive flats for sharp edges, burrs, scratches, or nicks. Polish the hub and flats with
320/400 grit paper or crocus cloth if necessary. The hub must be smooth to avoid damaging the pump seal at
installation.

2. Place torque converter in position on transmission.
CAUTION: Do not damage oil pump seal or converter hub while inserting torque
converter into the front of the transmission.
3. Align torque converter to oil pump seal opening.

4. Insert torque converter hub into oil pump.
5. While pushing torque converter inward, rotate converter until converter is fully seated in the oil pump
gears.
6. Check converter seating with a scale and straightedge. See Fig. 276. Surface of converter lugs should be
at least 19 mm (3/4 in.) to rear of straightedge when converter is fully seated.
7. If necessary, temporarily secure converter with C-clamp attached to the converter housing.
8. Install the transmission in the vehicle.
9. Fill the transmission with the recommended fluid.
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2007 BRAKES Base - Service Information - Nitro
2007 BRAKES
Base - Service Information - Nitro
BASE - SERVICE INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
BRAKE SYSTEM
ESP and Power assist four wheel disc brakes are standard equipment. Front disc brake components consist of
single piston calipers and ventilated rotors. Rear disc brakes use a drum in hat design for the parking brake
which is activated by brake shoes pressing against the inside of the drum in hat rotor.
The parking brake mechanism is lever and cable operated. The cables are attached on a equalizer on the lever
cable. The parking brakes are operated by a hand lever.
The vehicle is equipped with ESP (Electronic Stability Program). There are four wheel speed sensors, one
sensor at each wheel to monitor input.
A dual diaphragm vacuum power brake booster is used for all applications. All models have an aluminum
master cylinder with plastic reservoir.
Factory brake lining on all models consists of an organic base material combined with metallic particles. The
original equipment linings do not contain asbestos.
WARNING
WARNING
WARNING: DaimlerChrysler does not manufacture any vehicles or replacement parts

that contain asbestos. Aftermarket products may or may not contain
asbestos. Refer to aftermarket product packaging for product information.
Whether the product contains asbestos or not, dust and dirt can
accumulate on brake parts during normal use. Follow practices
prescribed by appropriate regulations for the handling, processing and
disposing of dust and debris.
CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, motor oil, transmission fluid, or
any fluid containing mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only fresh brake fluid or Mopar
brake cleaner to clean or flush brake system components. These are the
only cleaning materials recommended. If system contamination is
suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discoloration, or separation into
distinct layers. Also check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain and
flush the system with new brake fluid if contamination is suspected.
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CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT
standards J1703 and DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of
contaminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers only to ensure
proper antilock component operation.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temperature grease to lubricate caliper

slide surfaces, drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on the
backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE 661 or Dow 111 silicone
grease on caliper slide pins to ensure proper operation.
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes, calipers, rotors, brake lines, master cylinder, booster, and
parking brake components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the problem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum operated
component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
1. Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires can
cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition similar to grab.
2. If complaint was based on noise when braking, check suspension components. Jounce front and rear of
vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
3. Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear. Also note that brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is normal
and should not be mistaken for contamination.
 If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evidence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, and master
cylinder.
 If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a sample to examine. System will have to be flushed if
fluid is separated into layers, or contains a substance other than brake fluid. The system seals and
cups will also have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
4. Check parking brake operation. Verify free movement and full release of cables and hand lever. Also note
if vehicle was being operated with parking brake partially applied.
5. Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal lacks
free play, check pedal and power booster for being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test until
condition is corrected.
6. Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
7. If components checked appear OK, road test the vehicle.
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ROAD TESTING
1. If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
2. Check brake pedal response with transmission in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain firm
under constant foot pressure.
3. During road test, make normal and firm brake stops in 40-64 km/h (25-40 mph) range. Note faulty brake
operation such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsation, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
4. Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The leak point
could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around the
leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylinder caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may also be the
problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or junction block may also be the problem with no physical evidence.
Pedal fall-away can also be caused by the vacuum level building in the booster. This is common, especially in
vehicles equipped with a vacuum pump, and is not an indication of malfunction. To differentiate between a leak
and vacuum build, turn off the engine, and pump the pedal 4-5 times (until the vacuum is depleted), then press
and hold the pedal with constant force. If the pedal still falls away, pursue root causing leaks. If the pedal
remains firm under this condition, leaks are not the issue.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal several times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings or rotors
are the most likely causes. The proper course of action is to inspect and replace all worn components.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the system. However, substandard brake lines and hoses can also
cause a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to bleed the system, and replace substandard quality brake
hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or badly
worn. The power booster or check valve could also be faulty.
Hard pedal is also a symptom of a vacuum leak - check hoses and connections.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
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The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness variation. Other
causes are loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one wheel, all
wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release. Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the linings,
rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors and
drums from the overheat-cool down process. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and tires are quite warm
to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way through. It can also distort and score rotors and drums to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake components will be extremely hot. In severe cases, the lining
may generate smoke as it chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake cables.

Loose/worn wheel bearing.
Seized caliper piston.
Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted slide surfaces.
Loose caliper mounting.
Drum parking brake shoes binding on worn/damaged support plates.
Mis-assembled components.
Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked master cylinder return port, or faulty
power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating and resulting
fade can also be caused by riding the brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops in a short time span,
or constant braking on steep mountain roads. Refer to BRAKE DRAG for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
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Contaminated lining in one caliper

Seized caliper piston
Binding caliper
Loose caliper
Rusty caliper slide surfaces
Improper brake shoes
Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension component are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condition is where direction of pull changes after a few stops. The
cause is a combination of brake drag followed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake unit is still
functioning normally, its braking effect is magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in favor of the
normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember that pull
will return to the original direction, if the dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is not seriously
damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contaminated lining,
bent or binding shoes and support plates, or improperly assembled components. This is particularly true when
only one rear wheel is involved. However, when both rear wheels are affected, the master cylinder or
proportioning valve could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by driving
with the brakes very lightly applied for a mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and dirt
contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of leaking calipers, worn seals, driving through deep water
puddles, or lining that has become covered with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining should be
replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
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Severely worn tires with very little tread left can produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and recovers
traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and generate shudder during brake operation. A tire with internal
damage such as a severe bruise, cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with some disc brakes during the first few stops after a vehicle has been parked
overnight or stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This
light corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded in
the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn through
to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue, rotors and
drums can become so scored that replacement is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to chatter. Additional causes of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not securely
attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are frequently not caused by brake components. In many cases, such
noises are caused by loose or damaged steering, suspension, or engine components. However, calipers that bind
on the slide surfaces can generate a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
PRESSURE BLEEDING - BASE BRAKES
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards only. Use
fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into small
bubbles that are distributed throughout the hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding operations
necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the following sequence:

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Master Cylinder
Right Rear Wheel
Left Rear Wheel
Right Front Wheel
Left Front Wheel
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the tank
manufacturers pressure recommendations. Generally, a tank pressure of 103-139 kPa (15-20 psi) is sufficient
for bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cylinder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leakage, or
drawing air back into the system. Use adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter 6921.
MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards only. Use
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into small
bubbles that are distributed throughout the hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding operations
necessary.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the following sequence:
Master Cylinder
Junction Block
Right Rear Wheel
Left Rear Wheel
Right Front Wheel
Left Front Wheel
1. Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.

2. If calipers were overhauled, open all caliper bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to
drip from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more before proceeding.
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Fig. 1: Bleed Hose Setup

3. Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw and insert opposite end in glass container partially filled with
brake fluid. Be sure end of bleed hose is immersed in fluid.
4. Open up bleeder, then have a helper press down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the
bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.
SPECIFICATIONS
BASE BRAKES
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Front Disc Brake Rotor Diameter 302 x 28 mm (11.9 x 1.1 in)
Rear Disc Brake Rotor Diameter 316 x 12 mm (12.04 x 0.472 in)
Front Ventilated Disc Brake Rotor Max. Runout 0.020 mm (0.001 in.)
Rear Solid Disc Brake Rotor Max. Runout 0.020 mm (0.001 in.)
Front Ventilated Disc Brake Rotor Max. Thickness Variation 0.009 mm (0.0004 in.)
Rear Solid Disc Brake Rotor Max. Thickness Variation 0.009 mm (0.0004 in.)
Front Ventilated Disc Brake Rotor Min. Thickness 26.4 mm (1.039 in.)
Rear Solid Disc Brake Rotor Min. Thickness 10.4 mm (0.409 in.)
Disc Brake Calipers Single piston floating
Brake Booster Dual Diaphragm
Brake Booster Mounting 25 - 220
Nuts
Brake Pedal Shaft to 22.6 - 200
Steering Column Support
Bracket Nut & Washer
Assembly
Master Cylinder 25 - 220
Mounting Nuts
Master Cylinder Brake 20 15 180
Lines
ESP Module Bolt 10 - 85
ESP Module Nut 10 - 85
Front Caliper Adapter 136 100 -
Mounting Bolts
Front Caliper to Adapter 37 28 -
Mounting Bolts
Rear Caliper Adapter 102 75 -
Mounting Bolts
Rear Caliper to Adapter 37 28 -
Mounting Bolts
Front Caliper Brake Hose 31 23 -
Banjo Bolt
Rear Caliper Brake Hose 31 23 -
Banjo Bolt
Parking Brake Lever Nuts 16 - 140
Parking Brake Lever 10-14 7-10 -
Bracket Screws
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SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKES
Fig. 2: Installer Caliper Dust Boot 8280

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Fig. 3: Handle C-4171

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Fig. 4: Adapter Pressure Bleeder 6921

HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL
BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
BRAKE HOSES AND LINES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front and rear brake. Solid crimp one piece double walled ISO style flare
steel tubing is also part of the rubber hoses. They are serviced as one piece to the major hydraulic braking
components.
BRAKE LINE AND HOSES
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Flexible rubber hose is used at both front and rear brakes. Inspect the hoses whenever the brake system is
serviced, at every engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in for service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or worn spots. Replace any brake hose/line immediately if the
fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installation can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact with the
wheels and tires or other chassis components. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing, cracking and eventual
failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodically for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or other
damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or damaged
brake lines/hoses should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines/hoses are recommended to ensure quality, correct length and superior fatigue
life. Care should be taken to make sure that brake line/hose mating surfaces are clean and free from nicks and
burrs. Also remember that the brake lines are serviced as a whole assembly with the rubber hoses in a solid
crimp design.
Use new copper seal washers at all caliper connections. Be sure brake line connections are properly made (not
cross threaded) and tightened to recommended torque.
REMOVAL
RIGHT REAR BRAKE LINE/HOSE
Fig. 5: Identifying Brake Hose/Line Union Fitting & Brake Line From Mounting Clips
1. Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep pressure on the brake system.
3. Remove the caliper banjo bolt.
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4. Disconnect the brake hose/line union fitting (1).

5. Remove the brake line from the mounting clips (2) at the body.
Fig. 6: Identifying Brake Hose/Line Mounting Bolt & Line/Hose

6. Remove the brake hose/line mounting bolt (1) from the body.
7. Remove the line/hose (2).
LEFT REAR BRAKE LINE/HOSE
1. Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep pressure on the brake system, Holding pedal in this position
will isolate master cylinder from hydraulic brake system and will not allow brake fluid to drain out of
brake fluid reservoir while brake lines are open. This will allow you to bleed out the area of repair instead
of the entire system.
2. Remove the brake tube at the HCU.
4. Remove the exhaust from the engine manifolds and the hanger bracket at the transmission.
5. Remove the fuel tank. Refer to REMOVAL .
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Fig. 7: Identifying Bracket, Brake Hose/Line, Fuel Line Bundle & Retainers
6. Remove the brake hose banjo bolt at the caliper.

7. Remove the bracket (2) on the body securing the brake/fuel line bundle then remove the brake line (3)
from the fuel line bundle (4).
8. Disconnect the brake hose/line from the retainers (1) on the body.
9. Remove the brake hose/line (3) from the vehicle.
LEFT FRONT BRAKE HOSE/LINE
2. Remove the left front brake tube at the HCU.
4. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor from the hose.
5. Remove the brake hose banjo bolt at the caliper.
6. Disconnect the brake hose/line from the body.
7. Remove the brake hose/line from the vehicle.
RIGHT FRONT BRAKE HOSE/LINE
2. Remove the air box assembly.
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Fig. 8: Identifying Brake Line & Mounting Clip Studs

3. Remove the right front brake tube at the HCU.

4. Remove the brake line (2) from the mounting clip studs (1).
5. Disconnect the electrical connectors to the body control module on the inner fender.
8. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor routing clips (1) from the hose (4).
9. Remove the brake hose banjo bolt (3) at the caliper.
10. Disconnect the brake hose/line from the body.
11. Remove the brake hose/line from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
LEFT FRONT BRAKE HOSE/LINE
1. Install the line/hose.

2. Install the brake hose banjo bolt at the caliper.
3. Reconnect the wheel speed sensor routing clips to the hose.
4. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
6. Install the line to the mounting clips on the body.
7. Install the brake line to the HCU.
8. Remove the prop rod from the brake pedal.
9. Bleed the area of repair for the brake system, If a proper pedal is not felt during bleeding an area of
repair then a base bleed system must be performed. . See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
RIGHT REAR BRAKE LINE/HOSE

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Fig. 9: Identifying Brake Hose/Line Mounting Bolt & Line/Hose

1. Install the line/hose (2).

2. Install the brake hose/line mounting bolt (1) to the body.
3. Install the caliper banjo bolt.
Fig. 10: Identifying Brake Hose/Line Union Fitting & Brake Line From Mounting Clips
4. Install the brake line from the mounting clips (2) at the body.
5. Reconnect the brake hose/line union fitting (1).
7. Bleed the brake system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
RIGHT FRONT BRAKE HOSE/LINE
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Fig. 11: Identifying Line/Hose, Brake Hose Banjo Bolt, Wheel Speed Sensor Routing Clips & Hose
1. Install the line/hose (4).

2. Install the brake hose banjo bolt (3) at the caliper.
3. Reconnect the wheel speed sensor routing clips (1) to the hose (4).
4. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Fig. 12: Identifying Brake Line & Mounting Clip Studs

6. Install the mounting clips on the studs (1).

7. Install the brake line to the HCU.
8. Install the air box assembly.
9. Reconnect the electrical connectors to the body control module on the inner fender.
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LEFT REAR BRAKE HOSE/LINE
Fig. 13: Identifying Bracket, Brake Hose/Line, Fuel Line Bundle & Retainers
1. Install the brake hose/line (3) to the vehicle.

2. Reconnect the brake hose/line in the retainers (1) to the body.
3. Reinstall the brake line (3) to the fuel line bundle (4) and install the bracket (2).
4. Install the exhaust to the manifolds and reinstall the exhaust hanger at the transmission.
5. Install the fuel tank. Refer to INSTALLATION .
6. Install the brake hose banjo bolt at the caliper.
8. Install the brake tube at the HCU.
9. Remove the prop rod.
BRAKE PADS/SHOES
REMOVAL
PADS-DISC BRAKE-REAR
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Fig. 14: Caliper Assembly


2. Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
3. Compress the caliper (1).
4. Remove the rear caliper mounting bolts (4), see REMOVAL.
NOTE: Do not allow brake hose to support caliper assembly.
5. Remove the caliper by tilting the top up and off the caliper adapter.
6. Support and hang the caliper.
7. Remove the brake pads (2) from the caliper (1).
PADS-DISC BRAKE-FRONT
Fig. 15: Identifying Caliper Mounting Bolts, Disc Brake Caliper, Inboard/Outboard Pads & Adapter
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2. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
3. Drain a small amount of fluid from the master cylinder brake reservoir with a clean suction gun.
4. Bottom the caliper pistons into the caliper by prying the caliper over.
5. Remove the caliper mounting bolts (1).
6. Remove the disc brake caliper (2) from the adapter (4).
7. Remove the inboard and outboard pads (3).
INSTALLATION
PADS-DISC BRAKE-REAR
Fig. 16: Caliper Assembly

1. Install the brake pads (2) to the caliper adapter.

2. Install caliper (1) to the rotor and then install the caliper mounting bolts (4), see INSTALLATION.
3. Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower vehicle, refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
4. Apply brakes several times to seat caliper pistons and brake shoes and obtain firm pedal.
5. Top off master cylinder fluid level.
PADS-DISC BRAKE-FRONT
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Fig. 17: Identifying Caliper Mounting Bolts, Disc Brake Caliper, Inboard/Outboard Pads & Adapter
1. Install the inboard and outboard pads (3).

2. Install the caliper (2). See INSTALLATION.
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
DESCRIPTION
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
The calipers are a single piston type. The calipers are free to slide laterally, this allows continuous
compensation for lining wear.
OPERATION
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is exerted against the caliper piston. The fluid pressure is exerted
equally and in all directions. This means pressure exerted against the caliper piston and within the caliper bore
will be equal. See Fig. 18.
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Fig. 18: Brake Caliper Operation

1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON BORE
4 - SEAL
5 - INBOARD SHOE
6 - OUTBOARD SHOE
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Fluid pressure applied to the piston is transmitted directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the shoe lining
against the inner surface of the disc brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within the piston bore forces
the caliper to slide inward on the mounting bolts. This action brings the outboard brake shoe lining into contact
with the outer surface of the disc brake rotor.
In summary, fluid pressure acting simultaneously on both piston and caliper, produces a strong clamping action.
When sufficient force is applied, friction will attempt to stop the rotors from turning and bring the vehicle to a
stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal generates only a very slight movement of the caliper and piston.
Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and piston return to a rest position. The brake shoes do not retract an
appreciable distance from the rotor. In fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The reasons for this are to
keep road debris from getting between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of piston extension needed to compensate for normal lining wear.
During brake application, the seal is deflected outward by fluid pressure and piston movement. See Fig. 19.
When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are released, the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
The amount of piston retraction is determined by the amount of seal deflection. Generally the amount is just
enough to maintain contact between the piston and inboard brake shoe.
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Fig. 19: Caliper Piston Seal Function For Automatic Adjustment

1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
REMOVAL
CALIPER-DISC BRAKE-REAR
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Fig. 20: Identifying Bolts, Brake Hose & Brake Hose Banjo Bolt
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
4. Remove the brake hose banjo bolt (4) if replacing caliper.
6. Remove the caliper from vehicle.
CALIPER- DISC BRAKE-FRONT
Fig. 21: Disc Brake Caliper Components

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3. Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
4. Remove the brake hose banjo bolt (2) if replacing caliper.
6. Remove the caliper (4) from vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
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Fig. 22: Padding Caliper Interior - Typical

1. Remove brake shoes from caliper.

2. Drain brake fluid out of caliper.
3. Take a piece of wood and pad it with one-inch thickness of shop towels (1). Place this piece in the
outboard shoe side of the caliper in front of the piston. This will cushion and protect caliper piston during
removal.
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Fig. 23: Removing Caliper Piston - Typical

4. Remove caliper piston (2) with short bursts of low pressure compressed air. Direct air through fluid inlet
port and ease piston out of bore.
CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore with sustained air pressure.
This could result in a cracked piston. Use only enough air pressure
to ease the piston out.
WARNING: Never attempt to catch the piston as it leaves the bore. This may
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result in personal injury.
Fig. 24: Removing Caliper Piston Dust Boot - Typical

5. Remove caliper piston dust boot with suitable pry tool (1).
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Fig. 25: Removing Caliper Piston Seal - Typical

6. Remove caliper piston seal with wood or plastic tool (1). Do not use metal tools as they will scratch
piston bore.
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Fig. 26: Removing Caliper Mounting Bolt Bushings And Boots

7. Remove caliper mounting bolt bushings (1) and boots (2).
CLEANING
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
Clean the caliper components with clean brake fluid or brake clean only. Wipe the caliper and piston dry with
lint free towels or use low pressure compressed air.
CAUTION: Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner, or similar solvents. These

products may leave a residue that could damage the piston and seal.
INSPECTION
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
The piston is made from a phenolic resin (plastic material) and should be smooth and clean.
The piston must be replaced if cracked or scored. Do not attempt to restore a scored piston surface by sanding
or polishing.
CAUTION: If the caliper piston is replaced, install the same type of piston in the
caliper. Never interchange phenolic resin and steel caliper pistons. The
pistons, seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and piston tolerances are
different.
The bore can be lightly polished with a brake hone to remove very minor surface imperfections. See Fig. 27.
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The caliper should be replaced if the bore is severely corroded, rusted, scored, or if polishing would increase
bore diameter more than 0.025 mm (0.001 inch).
Fig. 27: Polishing Piston Bore - Typical

1 - SPECIAL HONE
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON BORE
ASSEMBLY
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
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Fig. 28: Installing Bushings & Boots - Typical

1 - BUSHING
2 - BOOT
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage caliper seals. Insure assembly area is
clean and dry.
1. Lubricate caliper piston bore, new piston seal and piston with clean brake fluid.
2. Lubricate caliper bushings and interior of bushing boots with silicone grease.
3. Install bushing boots (2) in caliper, then insert bushing into boot and push bushing (1) into place.
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Fig. 29: Installing Piston Seal - Typical

1 - SEAL
GROOVE
2-
PISTON
SEAL
4. Install new piston seal into seal groove (1) with finger.
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Fig. 30: Dust Boot On Piston - Typical

5. Install new dust boot on caliper piston and seat boot in piston groove (1).
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Fig. 31: Installing Caliper Piston - Typical

1-
PISTON
2-
BOOT
6. Press piston (1) into caliper bore by hand, use a turn and push motion to work piston into seal.
7. Press caliper piston to bottom of bore.
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Fig. 32: Installing Piston Dust Boot - Typical

1 - HANDLE
C-4171
2-
INSTALLER
C-4842
3 - DUST
BOOT
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8. Seat dust boot (3) in caliper with Installer Tool C-4842 (2) and Tool Handle C-4171 (1).
9. Replace caliper bleed screw if removed.
INSTALLATION
CALIPER-DISC BRAKE-FRONT

1. Install caliper (4) to the caliper adapter (5).

2. Coat the caliper mounting bolts (3) with silicone grease. Begin with the bolt closet to the bleeder screws
(top), Then install and tighten the bolts to 37 N.m (28 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Verify brake hose is not twisted or kinked before tightening fitting
bolt.
3. Install the brake hose banjo bolt (2) and brake hose to the caliper (4) with new seal washers and tighten
fitting bolt to 31 N.m (23 ft. lbs.) If removed.
4. Remove the prop rod from the vehicle.
6. Install the wheel and tire assemblies. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
7. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
8. Verify a firm pedal before moving the vehicle.
CALIPER-DISC BRAKE-REAR
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Fig. 34: Identifying Bolts, Brake Hose & Brake Hose Banjo Bolt
1. Install the brake pads if removed.

2. Install caliper. Tighten the bolts (6) to 37 N.m (28 ft. lbs.)
CAUTION: Verify brake hose (5) is not twisted or kinked before tightening fitting
bolt.
3. Install the brake hose (5) to the caliper with new seal washers and install the brake hose banjo bolt (4)
tighten fitting bolt to 31 N.m (23 ft. lbs.).
6. Install the wheel and tire assemblies. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
8. Verify a firm pedal before moving the vehicle.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER
REMOVAL
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2. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
3. Drain a small amount of fluid from master cylinder brake reservoir with a clean suction gun.
4. Bottom the caliper pistons into the caliper by prying the caliper over.
6. Remove the disc brake caliper (4) from the adapter (5).
7. Remove the inboard and outboard brake pads. See REMOVAL.

8. Remove the caliper adapter mounting bolts (1).
INSTALLATION
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1. Install the caliper adapter mounting bolts (1). Tighten the mounting bolts to 135 N.m (100 ft.lbs).
2. Install the inboard and outboard pads. See INSTALLATION.
3. Install the caliper mounting bolts (3). See INSTALLATION.
ROTORS
DISC BRAKE ROTOR
The rotor braking surfaces should not be refinished unless necessary.
Light surface rust and scale can be removed with a lathe equipped with dual sanding discs. The rotor surfaces
can be restored by machining in a disc brake lathe if surface scoring and wear are light.
Replace the rotor under the following conditions:
Severely scored
Tapered
Hard spots
Cracked
Below minimum thickness
ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if worn below
minimum thickness, or if machining would reduce thickness below the allowable minimum.
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Rotor minimum thickness is usually specified on the rotor hub. The specification is either stamped or cast into
the hub surface.
ROTOR RUNOUT
Fig. 37: Checking Rotor Runout & Thickness Variation

1 - DIAL INDICATOR
Check rotor lateral runout with dial indicator C-3339 (1). See Fig. 37. Excessive lateral runout will cause brake
pedal pulsation and rapid, uneven wear of the brake shoes. Position the dial indicator plunger approximately
25.4 mm (1 in.) inward from the rotor edge. The dial indicator should be positioned in the center of the rotor
surface. Maximum allowable rotor runout is 0.102 mm (0.004 in.).
ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
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Fig. 38: Measuring Rotor Thickness

1 - MICROMETER
2 - ROTOR
Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pulsation, noise and shudder.
Measure rotor thickness at 6 to 12 points around the rotor face. See Fig. 38.
Position the micrometer (1) approximately 25.4 mm (1 in.) from the rotor (2) outer circumference for each
measurement.
Thickness should not vary by more than 0.013 mm (0.0005 in.) from point-to-point on the rotor. Machine or
replace the rotor if necessary.
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BRAKE DRUM IN HAT ROTOR
The maximum allowable diameter of the drum braking surface is indicated on the drum outer edge. Always
replace the drum if machining would cause drum diameter to exceed the size limit indicated on the drum in hat.
BRAKE DRUM RUNOUT
Measure drum diameter and runout with an accurate gauge. The most accurate method of measurement involves
mounting the drum in a brake lathe and checking variation and runout with a dial indicator.
Machine the drum if runout or variation exceed values. Replace the drum in hat rotor if machining causes the
drum in hat rotor to exceed the maximum allowable diameter.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
DISC BRAKE ROTOR MACHINING
NOTE: A hub mounted on-vehicle lathe is highly recommended. This type of lathe trues
the rotor to the vehicles hub/bearing.
The disc brake rotor can be machined if scored or worn. The on-vehicle lathe must machine both sides of the
rotor simultaneously with dual cutter heads. The rotor mounting surface must be clean before placing on the on-
vehicle lathe. Equipment capable of machining only one side at a time may produce a tapered rotor. This type
of rotor machining is not recommended .
NOTE: Proper wheel torque is also critical to help prevent any warping of the disc
brake rotor.
CAUTION: Brake rotors that do not meet minimum thickness specifications before or
after machining must be replaced.
BRAKE DRUM IN HAT ROTOR MACHINING
The brake drum in hat rotor can be machined on a drum lathe when necessary. Initial machining cuts should be
limited to 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.) at a time as heavier feed rates can produce taper and surface
variation. Final finish cuts of 0.025 to 0.038 mm (0.001 to 0.0015 in.) are recommended and will generally
provide the best surface finish.
Be sure the drum in hat rotor is securely mounted in the lathe before machining operations. A damper strap
should always be used around the drum to reduce vibration and avoid chatter marks.
The maximum allowable diameter of the drum braking surface is stamped or cast into the drum in hat rotor.
CAUTION: Replace the drum in hat rotor if machining will cause the drum to exceed
the maximum allowable diameter.
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REMOVAL
DISC BRAKE ROTOR-FRONT
Fig. 39: Front Disc Brake Rotor


3. Remove the caliper adapter (2). See REMOVAL.

4. Remove the disc brake rotor (3).
DISC BRAKE ROTOR-REAR
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Fig. 40: Rear Disc Brake Rotor


3. Remove the disc brake caliper adapter (2) and pads (3), see REMOVAL.
4. Remove the retaining clips and rotor assembly (1).
INSTALLATION
DISC BRAKE ROTOR-FRONT
Fig. 41: Front Disc Brake Rotor

1. Install the disc brake rotor (3) to the hub.

2. Install the caliper mounting adapter (2). See INSTALLATION.
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DISC BRAKE ROTOR-REAR
Fig. 42: Rear Disc Brake Rotor

1. Install the rotor (1) to the axle shaft.

2. Install the disc brake caliper adapter (2) and pads (3), see INSTALLATION.
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
BRAKE PEDAL
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Fig. 43: Brake Pedal

A suspended-type brake pedal is used, the pedal pivots on a shaft mounted in the steering column support
bracket. The bracket is attached to the dash panel.
OPERATION
BRAKE PEDAL
Fig. 44: Booster Push Rod

1 - MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY

2 - BRAKE BOOSTER
3 - CLIP
4 - BRAKE PEDAL
5 - BOOSTER ROD
The brake pedal (4) is attached to the booster push rod (5). When the pedal is depressed, the primary booster
push rod (5) is depressed which moves the booster secondary rod. The booster secondary rod depresses the
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master cylinder piston (1). See Fig. 44.
REMOVAL
BRAKE PEDAL
Fig. 45: Identifying Retainer Clip, Pedal & Booster Mounting Nuts
1. Remove the knee blocker under the steering column, refer to REMOVAL .
2. Remove the retainer clip (3) securing the booster push rod to pedal (2).
3. Remove the brake lamp switch, refer to REMOVAL .
4. Remove the two nuts securing the pedal to the column bracket.
5. Remove the pedal from the vehicle.
Fig. 46: Pedal Bushing

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6. Remove the pedal bushing if necessary.
INSTALLATION
BRAKE PEDAL
Fig. 47: Pedal Bushing

1. Lubricate the brake pedal pin and bushings with Mopar multi-mileage grease.
2. Install the pedal bushings if removed.
3. Install the pedal into the vehicle.

4. Install the nuts securing the pedal to the column bracket.
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5. Tighten the nuts to 22.6 N.m (200 in. lbs.).

6. Install the booster push rod on the pedal pin and install a new retainer clip (3).
7. Install the brake lamp switch, refer to INSTALLATION .
8. Install the knee blocker, refer to INSTALLATION .
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
Fig. 49: Brake Master/Booster Assembly

The booster assembly consists of a housing divided into separate chambers by two internal diaphragms. The
outer edge of each diaphragm is attached to the booster housing. The diaphragms are connected to the booster
primary push rod.
Two push rods are used in the booster. The primary push rod connects the booster to the brake pedal. The
secondary push rod connects the booster (2) to the master cylinder (1) to stroke the cylinder pistons.
The booster assembly is of the tie-bar design. This means the structural support of the assembly is through the
tie-bars, whose ends protrude through the booster shell. One end is the master cylinder mounting stud and the
other end is the booster mounting stud. The booster assembly (with properly functioning check valve installed)
may not have a good vacuum seal unless the booster is installed on the dash panel mounting bracket with master
cylinder and booster mounting nuts properly torqued.
OPERATION
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
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Fig. 50: Power Brake Booster Cut Away

1 - VACUUM CHECK VALVE

2 - FRONT DIAPHRAGM
3 - REAR DIAPHRAGM
4 - HOUSING
5 - SEAL
6 - PRIMARY PUSH ROD (TO BRAKE PEDAL)
7 - BOOSTER MOUNTING STUDS
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8 - SECONDARY PUSH ROD (TO MASTER CYLINDER)

9 - SPRING
10 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING STUDS
The atmospheric inlet valve is opened and closed by the primary push rod (6). Booster vacuum supply is
through a hose attached to an intake manifold fitting at one end and to the booster check valve (1) at the other.
The vacuum check valve (1) in the booster housing (4) is a one-way device that prevents vacuum leak back.
Power assist is generated by utilizing the pressure differential between normal atmospheric pressure and a
vacuum. The vacuum needed for booster operation is taken directly from the engine intake manifold. The entry
point for atmospheric pressure is through a filter and inlet valve at the rear of the housing. See Fig. 50.
The chamber areas forward of the booster diaphragms are exposed to vacuum from the intake manifold. The
chamber areas to the rear of the diaphragms, are exposed to normal atmospheric pressure of 101.3 kilopascals
(14.7 pounds/square in.).
Brake pedal application causes the primary push rod to open the atmospheric inlet valve. This exposes the area
behind the diaphragms to atmospheric pressure. The resulting pressure differential provides the extra apply
force for power assist.
The booster check valve, check valve grommet and booster seals are serviceable.
MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
1. Start engine and check booster vacuum hose connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak. Correct
any vacuum leak before proceeding, also ensure booster mounting nuts are torqued correctly.
2. Stop engine and shift transmission into Neutral.
3. Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in booster is depleted.
4. Press and hold brake pedal under light foot pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal falls away
master cylinder is faulty (internal leakage). This could also indicate an external leak, such as at fittings,
hoses, HCU, etc., or a symptom of an internal leak in the HCU
5. Start engine and note pedal action. It should fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold firm. If
no pedal action is discernible, power booster, vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Proceed to
the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
6. If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows: Release
brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500 RPM, close the throttle and immediately turn off ignition to
stop engine.
7. Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake action again. Booster should provide two or more vacuum
assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
1. Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve with short length of hose and T-fitting. See Fig. 51.
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2. Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one minute.
3. Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
4. Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and check valve.
5. Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
6. If vacuum drops more than one inch Hg (33 millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or check
valve is faulty.
Fig. 51: Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections

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1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
1. Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.

2. Remove check valve and valve seal from booster.
3. Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
4. Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of check valve. See Fig. 52.
5. Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and should be
replaced.
Fig. 52: Typical - Vacuum Check Valve & Seal
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1 - BOOSTER CHECK VALVE

2 - APPLY TEST VACUUM HERE
3 - VALVE SEAL
REMOVAL
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER - LHD
Fig. 53: Identifying Reservoir, Fluid Level Electrical Connector, Brake Lines, Mounting Nuts & Booster
Check Valve
1. Disconnect the wire (3) to the fluid level switch at the bottom of the reservoir (2).
2. Remove the master cylinder (2). See REMOVAL.
3. Disconnect vacuum hoses from booster check valve (1).
4. Remove the brake lines (4) from the master cylinder and the HCU (ABS vehicles only) or the junction
block for clearance.
5. Disconnect the HCU from the mounts and move to the side for clearance of the booster.
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6. Remove knee blocker under the steering column, refer to REMOVAL .

7. Remove the brake light switch and discard, refer to REMOVAL .
8. Remove retaining clip (3) that secures booster push rod to brake pedal (2).
9. Remove nuts attaching booster (1) to the dash panel.
10. In engine compartment, slide booster studs out of dash panel, tilt booster upward, and remove booster
from engine compartment.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER - RHD
1. Remove the air box. Refer to REMOVAL .

2. Siphon the fluid out of the master cylinder.
Fig. 55: BRAKE BOOSTER

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3. Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder.

4. Remove the master cylinder. See REMOVAL.
5. Disconnect vacuum hose from booster check valve (1).
6. Remove knee blocker under the steering column, refer to REMOVAL .

7. Remove the brake light switch and discard, refer to REMOVAL .
8. Remove retaining clip (3) that secures booster push rod to brake pedal (2).
9. Remove nuts (1) attaching booster to the dash panel.
10. In engine compartment, slide booster studs out of dash panel, tilt booster upward, and remove booster
from engine compartment.
INSTALLATION
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER - LHD
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1. Align and position booster on the dash panel.

2. Install booster mounting nuts (1). Tighten nuts just enough to hold booster in place.
NOTE: Lubricate the pedal pin with Mopar multi-mileage grease before
installation.
3. Slide booster push rod onto the brake pedal (2). Then secure push rod to pedal pin with retaining clip (3).
4. Tighten booster mounting nuts (1) to 25 N.m (220 in. lbs.).
5. Install a new brake lamp switch and reconnect the electrical connector.
Fig. 58: Identifying Reservoir, Fluid Level Electrical Connector, Brake Lines, Mounting Nuts &
Booster Check Valve
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7. If original master cylinder is being installed, check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder. Replace
seal if cut, or torn.
8. Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for this
purpose. Dirt, grease, or similar materials will prevent proper cylinder seating and could result in vacuum
leak.
9. Align and install master cylinder on the booster studs. Install mounting nuts and tighten to 25 N.m (220
in. lbs.).
10. Connect vacuum hose to booster check valve (1).
11. Remount the HCU. Tighten bracket mounting nuts to 14 N.m (125 in. lbs.).
12. Connect and secure the brake lines (4) to HCU or junction block and master cylinder. Start all brake line
fittings by hand to avoid cross threading.
13. Connect the wire to fluid level switch (3) at the bottom of the reservoir (2).
14. Fill and bleed base brake system, see STANDARD PROCEDURE.
15. Verify proper brake operation before moving vehicle.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER - RHD
1. Align and position booster on the dash panel.

2. Install booster mounting nuts (1). Tighten nuts just enough to hold booster in place.
NOTE: Lubricate the pedal pin with Mopar multi-mileage grease before
installation.
3. Slide booster push rod onto the brake pedal (2). Then secure push rod to pedal pin with retaining clip (3).
4. Tighten booster mounting nuts (1) to 39 N.m (29 ft. lbs.).
5. Install a new brake lamp switch and reconnect the electrical connector.
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Fig. 60: Brake Booster

7. If original master cylinder is being installed, check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder. Replace
seal if cut, or torn.
8. Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for this
purpose. Dirt, grease, or similar materials will prevent proper cylinder seating and could result in vacuum
leak.
9. Align and install master cylinder on the booster studs (2). Install mounting nuts and tighten to 17.5 N.m
(155 in. lbs.). See INSTALLATION.
10. Connect vacuum hose to booster check valve (1).
11. Connect and secure the brake lines to master cylinder. Start all brake line fittings by hand to avoid cross
threading.
12. Connect the wire to fluid reservoir.
13. Install the air box.
15. Verify proper brake operation before moving vehicle.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
MASTER CYLINDER
The master cylinder has a removable plastic reservoir. The cylinder body is made of aluminum and contains a
primary and secondary piston assembly. The cylinder body including the piston assemblies are not serviceable.
If diagnosis indicates an internal problem with the cylinder body, it must be replaced as an assembly. The
reservoir and grommets are the only replaceable parts on the master cylinder.
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OPERATION
MASTER CYLINDER
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and secondary piston. The primary piston supplies hydraulic
pressure to the front brakes. The secondary piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes. The master
cylinder reservoir stores reserve brake fluid for the hydraulic brake circuits.
MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
1. Start engine and check booster vacuum hose connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak. Correct
any vacuum leak before proceeding, also ensure booster mounting nuts are torqued correctly.
2. Stop engine and shift transmission into Neutral.
3. Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in booster is depleted.
4. Press and hold brake pedal under light foot pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal falls away
master cylinder is faulty (internal leakage). This could also indicate an external leak, such as at fittings,
hoses, HCU, etc., or a symptom of an internal leak in the HCU
5. Start engine and note pedal action. It should fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold firm. If
no pedal action is discernible, power booster, vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Proceed to
the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
6. If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows: Release
brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500 RPM, close the throttle and immediately turn off ignition to
stop engine.
7. Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake action again. Booster should provide two or more vacuum
assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
1. Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve with short length of hose and T-fitting. See Fig. 51.
2. Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one minute.
3. Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
4. Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and check valve.
5. Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
6. If vacuum drops more than one inch Hg (33 millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or check
valve is faulty.
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Fig. 61: Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections

1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
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POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
1. Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.

2. Remove check valve and valve seal from booster.
3. Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
4. Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of check valve. See Fig. 52.
5. Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and should be
replaced.
Fig. 62: Typical - Vacuum Check Valve & Seal

1 - BOOSTER CHECK VALVE

2 - APPLY TEST VACUUM HERE
3 - VALVE SEAL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
MASTER CYLINDER BLEEDING
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A new master cylinder should be bled before installation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include bleed
tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons. Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
1. Mount master cylinder in vise.

2. Attach bleed tubes to cylinder outlet ports. Then position each tube end into reservoir. See Fig. 63.
3. Fill reservoir with fresh brake fluid.
4. Press cylinder pistons inward with wood dowel. Then release pistons and allow them to return under
spring pressure. Continue bleeding operations until air bubbles are no longer visible in fluid.
Fig. 63: Master - Typical

1 - BLEEDING TUBES
2 - RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
MASTER CYLINDER
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Check Valve
1. Siphon and drain the fluid from the reservoir (2).

2. Disconnect the fluid level electrical connector (3) from the reservoir (2).
3. Remove the brake lines (4) at the master cylinder.
4. Remove mounting nuts (5) from the master cylinder.
Fig. 65: Master Cylinder

5. Remove master cylinder.

6. Remove cylinder cover and drain the rest of the fluid.
7. If master cylinder reservoir requires service, see REMOVAL.
INSTALLATION
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MASTER CYLINDER
Fig. 66: Master Cylinder

NOTE: If master cylinder is replaced, bleed cylinder before installation.
Fig. 67: Identifying Brake Booster & Brake Booster Studs

1. Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake booster (3).
NOTE: Insure the O-ring is on the master cylinder at the booster interface.
2. Install master cylinder onto brake booster studs (4).
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Booster Check Valve
3. Install mounting nuts (5) and tighten to 17 N.m (151 in. lbs.).
4. Connect the brake lines (4) to the master cylinder and tighten to 19 N.m (168 in. lbs.).
5. Connect fluid level electrical connector (3) to the reservoir (2).
FLUID
DESCRIPTION
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards. No other
type of brake fluid is recommended or approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use only Mopar brake
fluid or an equivalent from a tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid from a container which has been
left open. An open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture from the
air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based fluid in the brake hydraulic
system. Use of such type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the vehicle brake system.
Petroleum based fluids would be items such as engine oil, transmission
fluid, power steering fluid, etc.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL

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Fig. 69: Identifying Master Cylinder Reservoir

Always clean the master cylinder reservoir and caps before checking fluid level. If not cleaned, dirt could enter
the fluid.
The fluid fill level is indicated on the side of the master cylinder reservoir (1).
The correct fluid level is to the MAX indicator on the side of the reservoir. If necessary, add fluid to the proper
level.
FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
RESERVOIR
Check Valve
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1. Install prop rod on brake pedal to keep pressure on the brake system.
2. Remove reservoir cap and siphon fluid into drain container.
3. Remove the electrical connector (3) from the fluid level switch in the reservoir (2).
Fig. 71: Identifying Reservoir & Tabs

4. Remove the reservoir (1) from the master cylinder by pulling the four tabs (3) outward to release.

5. Remove the reservoir (1) from the master cylinder by pulling upwards.
6. If replacing the reservoir (1) remove the fluid level sensor (2) by squeezing the tabs together while pulling
on the sensor (2).
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Fig. 73: Identifying Old Grommets & Cylinder Body

7. Remove old grommets (2) from cylinder body (1).
INSTALLATION
RESERVOIR
Fig. 74: Identifying Old Grommets & Cylinder Body

CAUTION: Do not use any type of tool to install the grommets (2). Tools may cut, or
tear the grommets creating a leak problem after installation. Install the
grommets using finger pressure only and insure that the grommets are
properly seated and checked for leaks after installation.
1. Lubricate new grommets (2) with clean brake fluid and Install new grommets (2) onto reservoir outlets
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(1). Use finger pressure to install and seat grommets.

2. Start reservoir (1) and grommets into holes on master cylinder.
Fig. 76: Identifying Reservoir & Tabs

3. Then rock reservoir (1) back and forth while pressing downward to seat it in the holes on the master
cylinder. Make sure the four tabs are securely seated over the nubs (3).
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4. Install the fluid level sensor (2) if removed by just inserting the sensor in the reservoir until the tabs click.
Booster Check Valve
5. Reconnect the electrical connector (3) to the fluid reservoir level switch.
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL
SUPPORT PLATE
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Fig. 79: Identifying Support Plate & Attaching Bolts

1. Remove wheel and tire assembly.

2. Remove the disc brake caliper. See REMOVAL.
3. Remove the rotor, see REMOVAL.
4. Remove the axle shaft, refer to REMOVAL .
5. Remove the park brake shoes, see REMOVAL.
6. Remove the bolts (2) attaching the support plate (1) to the axle and remove the support plate (1).
INSTALLATION
SUPPORT PLATE
Fig. 80: Identifying Support Plate & Attaching Bolts

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1. Install support plate (1) on axle flange. Tighten attaching bolts (2) to 115 N.m (85 ft. lbs.).
2. Install the park brake shoes, see INSTALLATION.
3. Install axle shaft, refer to INSTALLATION .
4. Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge. See ADJUSTMENTS.
5. Install the rotor. See INSTALLATION.
6. Install the caliper. See INSTALLATION.
7. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION
PARKING BRAKE
The parking brake is a hand lever and cable operated system used to apply the rear brakes.
OPERATION
PARKING BRAKE
A hand operated lever in the passenger compartment is the main application device. The front cable is
connected between the hand lever and the rear cables with an equalizer.
The rear cables are connected to the actuating lever on each primary brake shoe. The levers are attached to the
brake shoes by a pin either pressed into, or welded to the lever. A clip is used to secure the pin in the brake
shoe. The pin allows each lever to pivot independently of the brake shoe.
To apply the parking brakes, the hand lever is pulled upward. This pulls the rear brake shoe actuating levers
forward, by means of a tensioner and cables. As the actuating lever is pulled forward, the parking brake strut
(which is connected to both shoes), exerts a linear force against the secondary brake shoe. This action presses
the secondary shoe into contact with the drum. Once the secondary shoe contacts the drum, force is exerted
through the strut. This force is transferred through the strut to the primary brake shoe causing it to pivot into the
drum as well.
A gear type ratcheting mechanism is used to hold the lever in an applied position. Parking brake release is
accomplished by the hand lever release button.
A parking brake switch is mounted on the parking brake lever and is actuated by movement of the lever. The
switch, which is in circuit with the red warning light in the dash, will illuminate the warning light whenever the
parking brakes are applied.
Parking brake is self-adjusting when the lever is pulled. The cable tensioner, once adjusted at the factory, should
not need further adjustment under normal circumstances.
ADJUSTMENTS
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PARKING BRAKE LOCK OUT
Fig. 81: Parking Brake Lock Out

NOTE: The parking brake is self-adjusting, it can not be adjusted.
1. Remove the center floor console. Refer to REMOVAL .

2. With lever in DOWN position, pull up on the core cable (4) rotating the drum (5) until the drum cut-out
aligns with hole on lever tab (3), then install a punch (2) in this hole and drum cut-out. Release grasp on
core cable.
3. The park brake system is now locked out to perform necessary repairs.
CABLES
REMOVAL
REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLES
1. Lock out the parking brake cables. See ADJUSTMENTS.
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Fig. 82: Mounting Brackets

1 - PARK BRAKE CABLES

2 - CARPET
2. Remove the rear seat. Refer to REMOVAL .

3. Pull the carpet forward far enough in the rear to gain access to the two parking brake cables through the
floor.
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Fig. 83: Identifying Cables & Equalizer

4. Disconnect the two cables (1) from the equalizer (2) and then remove the cables front the mount using a
proper sized box end wrench over the tangs.
Fig. 84: Identifying Cables, Floor & Grommets

5. Push the cables (1) through the floor (3) with the grommets (2).
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Fig. 85: Identifying Brake Lever & Brake Cable

6. Remove the stabilizer bar bracket retainer.

7. Remove the park brake cable from the stabilizer bar retainer and mount.
8. Remove the cable from the axle bracket with a proper sized box end wrench over the tangs.
9. Remove the brake cable (2) from the brake lever (3).
INSTALLATION
REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLES
Fig. 86: Identifying Brake Lever & Brake Cable

1. Install the cables (2) into the axle bracket.

2. Reconnect the cable to the park brake lever (1).
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3. Install the park brake cable between the stabilizer bar retainer bracket and the mount. Tighten the bolts to
47 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 87: Identifying Cables, Floor & Grommets

4. Push the cables (1) through the floor (3) and seat the grommets (2).
Fig. 88: Identifying Cables & Equalizer

5. Reconnect the two cables (1) to the front mount and then to the equalizer (2).
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Fig. 89: Mounting Brackets

1 - PARK BRAKE CABLES

2 - CARPET
6. Lay the carpet (2) back down in the rear.

7. Install the rear seat. Refer to INSTALLATION .
8. Remove the lock out device on the lever.
9. Adjust the park brake shoes. See ADJUSTMENTS.
10. Test the parking brake.
LEVER
REMOVAL
PARKING BRAKE LEVER
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Fig. 90: Identifying Parking Brake Lever Assembly Mounting Nuts, Parking Brake Lamp Switch Wire,
Lever Assembly & Occupant Restraint Controller Mounting Nuts
1. Remove the center floor console, refer to REMOVAL .

2. Lock out the parking brakes. See ADJUSTMENTS.
3. Disengage the front cables from the equalizer.
4. Disconnect the parking brake lamp switch wire (2).
5. Remove the occupant restraint controller mounting nuts (4). Refer to REMOVAL .
6. Remove the parking brake lever assembly mounting nuts (1).
7. Remove the lever assembly (3).
INSTALLATION
PARKING BRAKE LEVER
Fig. 91: Identifying Parking Brake Lever Assembly Mounting Nuts, Parking Brake Lamp Switch Wire,
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Lever Assembly & Occupant Restraint Controller Mounting Nuts

1. Install the parking brake lever assembly (3).

2. Install the parking brake lever assembly (3) to the mounting bolts and tighten the nuts (1) to 16 N.m (140
in. lbs.).
3. Engage the front cables to the equalizer.
4. Reconnect the parking brake lamp switch wire (2).
5. If installing a new parking brake lever remove the pin that comes on the lever when shipped.
6. If you are reinstalling the original park brake lever remove the lock out device at this time.
7. Install the occupant restraint controller. Refer to INSTALLATION .
8. Test the parking brake lever.
9. Install the center floor console, refer to INSTALLATION .
SHOES
DESCRIPTION
DRUM IN HAT PARK BRAKES
Fig. 92: Identifying Brake Shoes

Drum in hat park brakes are dual shoe, internal expanding units with an automatic self adjusting mechanism.
OPERATION
DRUM IN HAT PARK BRAKE
When the parking brake lever is pulled the brake cable pulls the brake shoes outward against the brake drum.
When the brake lever is released the return springs attached to the brake shoes pull the shoes back to their
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original position.
REMOVAL
PARK BRAKE SHOES - DRUM IN HAT
Fig. 93: Identifying Rear Park Brake Shoes & Axle Shaft

3. Remove the disc brake caliper, see REMOVAL.
4. Remove the disc brake rotor, see REMOVAL.
5. Remove the axle shaft (2). Refer to REMOVAL .

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6. Disassemble the rear park brake shoes (1).
CLEANING
REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE
Clean the individual brake components, including the support plate exterior, with a water dampened cloth or
with brake cleaner. Do not use any other cleaning agents. Remove light rust and scale from the brake shoe
contact pads on the support plate with fine sandpaper.
INSPECTION
REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE

As a general rule, riveted brake shoes (1) should be replaced when worn to within 0.78 mm (1/32 in.) of the
rivet heads. Bonded lining should be replaced when worn to a thickness of 1.6 mm (1/16 in.).
Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if the shoes are bent or the drum is tapered. The lining should
exhibit contact across its entire width. Shoes exhibiting contact only on one side should be replaced and the
drum checked for runout or taper.
Inspect the adjuster screw assembly. Replace the assembly if the star wheel or threads are damaged, or the
components are severely rusted or corroded.
Discard the brake springs and retainer components if worn, distorted or collapsed. Also replace the springs if a
brake drag condition had occurred. Overheating will distort and weaken the springs.
Inspect the brake shoe contact pads on the support plate, replace the support plate if any of the pads are worn or
rusted through. Also replace the plate if it is bent or distorted.
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INSTALLATION
PARK BRAKE SHOES - DRUM IN HAT

NOTE: On a new vehicle or after parking brake lining replacement, it is recommended

that the parking brake system be conditioned prior to use. This is done by
making one stop from 25 mph on dry pavement or concrete using light to
moderate force on the parking brake lever.
1. Reassemble the rear park brake shoes (1).

2. Adjust the rear brake shoes (5). See ADJUSTMENTS.
Fig. 97: Identifying Rear Park Brake Shoes & Axle Shaft
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3. Install the axle shaft (2). Refer to INSTALLATION .

4. Install the disc brake rotor. See INSTALLATION.
5. Install the disc brake caliper. See INSTALLATION.
ADJUSTMENTS
REAR DRUM IN HAT PARK BRAKE (ROTOR REMOVED)
Under normal circumstances, the only time adjustment is required is when the shoes are replaced, removed for
access to other parts, or when one or both rotors are replaced.
Adjustment can be made with a standard brake gauge or with adjusting tool. Adjustment is performed with the
complete brake assembly installed on the backing plate.
CAUTION: Before adjusting the park brake shoes be sure that the park brake lever is
in the fully released position. If park brake lever is not in the fully released
position, the park brake shoes can not be accurately adjusted.
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Remove tire and wheel.
3. Remove disc brake caliper from caliper adapter. See REMOVAL.
4. Remove rotor from the axle shaft. See REMOVAL.
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Fig. 98: Measuring Park Brake Drum Diameter

NOTE: When measuring the brake drum diameter, the diameter should be
measured in the center of the area in which the park brake shoes contact
the surface of the brake drum.
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Fig. 99: Reading Park Brake Drum Diameter


2 - RULER
5. Using Brake Shoe Gauge, Special Tool C-3919 (1), or equivalent, accurately measure the inside
diameter of the park brake drum portion of the rotor. See Fig. 98.
6. Using a ruler (2) that reads in 64th of an inch, accurately read the measurement of the inside diameter of
the park brake drum from the special tool. See Fig. 99.
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Fig. 100: Setting Gauge To Park Brake Shoe Measurement

1 - RULER
7. Reduce the inside diameter measurement of the brake drum that was taken using Special Tool C-3919 (2)
by 1/64 of an inch. Reset Gauge, Brake Shoe, Special Tool C-3919 (2) or the equivalent used, so that the
outside measurement jaws are set to the reduced measurement. See Fig. 100.
8. Place Gauge, Brake Shoe, Special Tool C-3919 (2) , or equivalent over the park brake shoes. The special
tool must be located diagonally across at the top of one shoe and bottom of opposite shoe (widest point)
of the park brake shoes.
9. Using the star wheel adjuster, adjust the park brake shoes until the lining on the park brake shoes just
touches the jaws on the special tool.
10. Repeat step 8 above and measure shoes in both directions.
11. Install brake rotor on the axleshaft. See INSTALLATION.
12. Rotate rotor to verify that the park brake shoes are not dragging on the brake drum. If park brake shoes
are dragging, remove rotor and back off star wheel adjuster one notch and recheck for brake shoe drag
against drum. Continue with the previous step until brake shoes are not dragging on brake drum.
13. Install disc brake caliper on caliper adapter. See INSTALLATION.
14. Install wheel and tire.
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15. Tighten the wheel mounting nuts in the proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the specified
torque. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N.m (95 ft. lbs.).
16. Lower vehicle.
CAUTION: Before moving vehicle, pump brake pedal several times to ensure the
vehicle has a firm enough pedal to stop the vehicle.
NOTE: After parking brake lining replacement, it is recommended that the parking
brake system be conditioned prior to use. This is done by making one stop
from 25 mph on dry pavement or concrete using light to moderate force on
the parking brake hand lever.
17. Road test the vehicle to ensure proper function of the vehicle's brake system.
REAR DRUM IN HAT PARK BRAKE (ROTOR INSTALLED) USING ADJUSTMENT TOOL
Adjustment can be made with a standard brake gauge or with adjusting tool. Adjustment is performed with the
complete brake assembly installed on the backing plate.
1. Be sure parking brake lever is fully released.

2. Raise vehicle so rear wheels can be rotated freely.
3. Remove plug from each access hole in brake support plates.
4. Insert adjusting tool through support plate access hole and engage tool in teeth of adjusting screw star
wheel. See Fig. 101.
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Fig. 101: Brake Adjustment

1 - STAR WHEEL
2 - LEVER
3 - BRAKE SHOE WEB
4 - SCREWDRIVER
5 - ADJUSTING TOOL
6 - ADJUSTER SPRING
5. Rotate adjuster screw star wheel (move tool handle upward) until slight drag can be felt when wheel is
rotated.
6. Push and hold adjuster lever away from star wheel with thin screwdriver.
7. Back off adjuster screw star wheel until brake drag is eliminated.
8. Repeat adjustment at opposite wheel. Be sure adjustment is equal at both wheels.
9. Install support plate access hole plugs.
10. Lower vehicle.
11. Apply park brake hand lever and make sure park brakes hold the vehicle stationary.
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12. Release park brake hand lever.
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2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Body - Nitro
Body - Nitro
WARNING
WARNING - CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
WARNING: Use an OSHA approved breathing filter when spraying paint or solvents in
a confined area. Personal injury can result.
Avoid prolonged skin contact with petroleum or alcohol - based

cleaning solvents. Personal injury can result.
Do not stand under a hoisted vehicle that is not properly supported
on safety stands. Personal injury can result.
CAUTION: When holes must be drilled or punched in an inner body panel, verify
depth of space to the outer body panel, electrical wiring, or other
components. Damage to vehicle can result.
Do not weld exterior panels unless combustible material on the

interior of vehicle is removed from the repair area. Fire or hazardous
conditions, can result.
Always have a fire extinguisher ready for use when welding.
Disconnect the negative (-) cable clamp from the battery when
servicing electrical components that are live when the ignition is
OFF. Damage to electrical system can result.
Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds on painted surfaces.
Damage to finish can result.
Do not use harsh alkaline based cleaning solvents on painted or
upholstered surfaces. Damage to finish or color can result.
Do not hammer or pound on plastic trim panel when servicing
interior trim. Plastic panels can break.

WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing, improper body component alignment, body seam porosity, missing
plugs, or blocked drain holes. Centrifugal and gravitational force can cause water to drip from a location away
from the actual leak point, making leak detection difficult. All body sealing points should be water tight in
normal wet-driving conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of the vehicle should not enter the
passenger or luggage compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not always seal water tight under all
conditions. At times, side glass or door seals will allow water to enter the passenger compartment during high
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pressure washing or hard driving rain (severe) conditions. Overcompensating on door or glass adjustments to
stop a water leak that occurs under severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and excessive closing or
latching effort. After completing a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped before returning vehicle
to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body drains are clear, and body components are properly aligned
and sealed. If component alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of this article for
proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: Do not use electric shop lights or tools in water test area. Personal injury
can result.
When the conditions causing a water leak have been determined, simulate the conditions as closely as possible.
If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-ended
garden hose.
If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simulate
this condition. This method can be used when the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or turns.
If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking, hoist the
back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on
right turns, hoist the right side of the vehicle. For hoisting recommendations. Refer to STANDARD
PROCEDURE .
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming on the
inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove interior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the leak area. If
the hose cannot be positioned without being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable length of time to become apparent. When a leak appears,
find the highest point of the water track or drop. The highest point usually will show the point of entry. After
leak point has been found, repair the leak and water test to verify that the leak has stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The trapped water
may splash or run from the cavity, often at a distance from the entry point. Most water leaks of this type become
apparent after accelerating, stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can also be
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used to deflect light to a limited-access area to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can be detected without water testing. Position the vehicle in a
brightly lit area. From inside the darkened luggage compartment inspect around seals and body seams. If
necessary, have a helper direct a drop light over the suspected leak areas around the luggage compartment. If
light is visible through a normally sealed location, water could enter through the opening.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compartment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize the
passenger compartment and soap test exterior of the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compartment, close all
doors and windows, start engine, and set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If engine can not be
started, connect a charger to the battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower. With interior pressurized,
apply dish detergent solution to suspected leak area on the exterior of the vehicle. Apply detergent solution with
spray device or soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point
could be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks can be caused by poor sealing, improper body component
alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas. All body
sealing points should be airtight in normal driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not always seal
airtight under all conditions. At times, side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be noticed in the
passenger compartment during high cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass adjustments to stop wind
noise that occurs under severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and excessive closing or latching
effort. After a repair procedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify noise has stopped before returning
vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and body components are aligned and sealed. If component
alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the appropriate article for proper procedures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
1. Drive the vehicle to verify the general location of the wind noise.
2. Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm (6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehicle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is
applied, remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
Moldings standing away from body surface can catch wind and whistle.
Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
Misaligned movable components.
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Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.

Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation and
provide protection against rust and excessive wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to prolong their
life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operating mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned. Pivot/sliding
contact areas on the mechanisms should then be lubricated.
1. When necessary, lubricate the operating mechanisms with the specified lubricants.
2. Apply silicone lubricant to a cloth and wipe it on door seals to avoid over-spray that can soil passenger's
clothing.
3. Before applying lubricant, the component should be wiped clean. After lubrication, any excess lubricant
should be removed.
4. The hood latch, latch release mechanism, latch striker, and safety latch should be lubricated periodically.
5. The door lock cylinders should be lubricated twice each year (preferably autumn and spring).
Spray a small amount of lock cylinder lubricant directly into the lock cylinder.
Apply a small amount to the key and insert it into the lock cylinder.
Rotate it to the locked position and then back to the unlocked position several times.
Remove the key. Wipe the lubricant from it with a clean cloth to avoid soiling of clothing.
Component Fluid, Lubricant, and Genuine Part

Hinges:
Door & Hood Mopar® Engine Oil
Lift Gate Mopar® Multi-Purpose Lube NLGI Grade 2 EP, GC-LB
Latches: Hood/Safety Catch Mopar® Multi-Purpose Lube NLGI Grade 2 EP, GC-LB
Seat Regulator & Track Mopar® Multi-Purpose Lube NLGI Grade 2 EP, GC-LB
Lock Cylinders Mopar® Lock Cylinder Lube
PLASTIC BODY PANEL REPAIR
There are many different types of plastics used in today's automotive environment. We group plastics in three
different categories: Rigid, Semi-Rigid, and Flexible. Any of these plastics may require the use of an adhesion
promoter for repair. These types of plastic are used extensively on DaimlerChrysler Motors vehicles. Always
follow repair material manufacturer's plastic identification and repair procedures.
Rigid Plastics:
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Examples of rigid plastic use: Fascias, Hoods, Doors, and other Body Panels, which include SMC, ABS, and
Polycarbonates.
Semi-Rigid Plastics:
Examples of semi-rigid plastic use: Interior Panels, Under Hood Panels, and other Body Trim Panels.
Flexible Plastics:
Examples of flexible plastic use: Fascias, Body Moldings, and upper and lower Fascia Covers.
Repair Procedure:
The repair procedure for all three categories of plastics is basically the same. The one difference is the material
used for the repair. The materials must be specific for each substrate, rigid repair material for rigid plastic
repair, semi-rigid repair material for semi-rigid plastic repair and flexible repair material for flexible plastic
repair.
Adhesion Promoter/Surface Modifier:
Adhesion Promoters/Surface Modifiers are required for certain plastics. All three categories may have plastics
that require the use of adhesion promoter/surface modifiers. Always follow repair material manufacturer's
plastic identification and repair procedures.
SAFETY PRECAUTION AND WARNINGS
WARNING: Eye protection should be used when servicing components.

Personal injury can result.
Use an OSHA approved breathing mask when mixing epoxy,
grinding, and spraying paint or solvents in a confined area. Personal
injury can result.
Avoid prolonged skin contact with resin, petroleum, or alcohol
based solvents. Personal injury can result.
Do not venture under a hoisted vehicle that is not properly
supported on safety stands. Personal injury can result.
NOTE: When holes must be drilled or cut in body panels, verify locations of
internal body components and electrical wiring. Damage to vehicle can
result.
Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds on undamaged painted
surfaces around repair areas. Damage to finish can result.
RIGID, SEMI-RIGID, AND FLEXIBLE PLASTIC PARTS TYPES
CODE FAMILY NAME COMMON TRADE TYPICAL

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NAME APPLICATION
ASA ACRYLONITRILE STYRENE LURAN S CONSOLES, GRILLES
ACRYLITE
ABS ACRYLONITRILE BUTADIENE TERLURAN "A" PILLARS,
STYRENE CONSOLES, GRILLES
ABS/PC ABS/PC ALLOY PULSE, PROLOY, DOORS, INSTRUMENT
BAYBLEND PANELS
ABS/PVC ABS/PV ALLOY PROLOY, PULSE, DOOR PANELS,
LUSTRAN, CYCLOVIN GRILLES, TRIM
BMC BULK MOLDING COMPOUND BMC FENDER EXTENSIONS
EMA EHTYLENE METHYL SURLYN, EMA, BUMPER GUARDS,
ACRYLATE/IONOMER IONOMER PADS
METTON METTON METTON GRILLES, KICK
PANELS, RUNNING
BOARDS
MPPO MODIFIED POLYPHENYLENE MPPO SPOILER ASSEMBLY
OXIDE
PA POLYAMID ZYTEL, VYDYNE, PA, FENDERS, QUARTER
MINLON PANELS
PET THERMOPLASTIC RYNITE TRIM
POLYESTER
PBT/PPO PBT/PPO ALLOY GERMAX CLADDINGS
PBTP POLYBUTYLENE PBT, PBTP, POCAN, WHEEL COVERS,
THEREPTHALATE VALOX FENDERS, GRILLES
PBTP/EEBC POLYBUTYLENE BEXLOY, "M", FASCIAS, ROCKER
THEREPTHALATE/EEBC PBTP/EEBC PANEL, MOLDINGS
ALLOY
PC POLYCARBONATE LEXAN, MERLON, TAIL LIGHT LENSES, IP
CALIBRE, MAKROLON TRIM, VALANCE
PC PANELS
PC/ABS PC/ABS ALLOY GERMAX, BAY DOORS, INSTRUMENT
BLENDS, PULSE PANELS
PPO POLYPHENYLENE OXIDE AZDEL, HOSTALEN, INTERIOR TRIM, DOOR
MARLEX, PRFAX, PANELS, SPLASH
NORYL, GTX, PPO SHIELDS, STEERING
COLUMN SHROUD
PPO/PA POLYPHENYLENE/POLYAMID PPO/PA, GTX 910 FENDERS, QUARTER
PANELS
PR/FV FIBERGLASS REINFORCED FIBERGLASS, FV, BODY PANELS
PLASTIC PR/FV
PS POLYSTYRENE LUSTREX, STYRON, PS DOOR PANELS, DASH
PANELS
RTM RESIN TRANSFER MOLDING RTM BODY PANELS
COMPOUND
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SMC SHEET MOLDED COMPOUND SMC BODY PANELS

TMC TRANSFER MOLDING TMC GRILLES
COMPOUND
UP UNSATURATED POLYESTERSMC, BMC, TMC, ZMC, GRILLE OPENING
(THERMOSETTING) IMC, XSMC, UP PANEL, LIFTGATES,
FLARESIDE FENDERS,
FENDER EXTENSIONS
EEBC ETHER/ESTER BLOCKED CO- EEBC BUMPERS
POLYMER
EEBC/PBTP EEBC/POLYBUTYLENE EEBC, PBTP, BEXLOY BUMPER, ROCKER
TEREPTHALATE PANELS
EMPP ETHYLENE MODIFIED EMPP BUMPER COVERS
POLYPROPYLENE
EPDM ETHYLENE/PROPROPYLENE EPDM, NORDEL, BUMPERS
DIENE MONOMER VISTALON
EPM ETHYLENE/PROPROPYLENE EPM FENDERS
CO-POLYMER
MPU FOAM POLYURETHANE MPU SPOILERS
PE POLYETHYLENE ALATHON, DYLAN,
-
LUPOLEN, MARLEX
PP POLYPROPYLENE (BLENDS) NORYL, AZDEL, INNER FENDER,
MARLOX, DYLON, SPOILERS, KICK
PRAVEX PANELS
PP/EPDM PP/EPDM ALLOY PP/EPDM SPOILERS, GRILLES
PUR POLYURETHANE COLONELS, PUR, PU FASCIAS, BUMPERS
PUR/PC PUR/PC ALLOY TEXIN BUMPERS
PVC POLYVINYL CHLORIDE APEX, GEON, VINYLITE BODY MOLDINGS,
WIRE INSULATION,
STEERING WHEELS
RIM REACTION INJECTED RIM, BAYFLEX FRONT FASCIAS,
MOLDED POLYURETHANE MODULAR WINDOWS
RRIM REINFORCED REACTION PUR, RRIM FASCIAS, BODY
INJECTED MOLDED PANELS, BODY TRIMS
TPE THERMO POLYETHYLENE TPE, HYTREL, FASCIAS, BUMPERS,
BEXLOY-V CLADDINGS
TPO THERMOPOLYOLEFIN POLYTROPE, RENFLEX, BUMPERS, END CAPS,
SANTOPRENE, TELCAR, RUBBER,
VISAFLEX, ETA, APEX, STRIPS, SIGHT,
TPO, SHIELDS, INTERIOR B POST
CLADDINGS
TPP THERMO-POLYPROPYLENE TPP BUMPERS
TPU THERMOPOLYURETHANE, TPU, HYTREL, TEXIN, BUMPERS, BODY SIDE,
POLYESTER ESTANE MOLDINGS, FENDERS,
FASCIAS
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PANEL SECTIONING
Fig. 1: View Of Panel Sectioning

1 - EXISTING PANEL
2 - NEW PANEL
3 - PANEL ADHESIVE
4 - BONDING STRIP
If it is required to section a large panel for a plastic repair, it will be necessary to reinforce the panel. To bond
two plastic panels together, a reinforcement must overlap both panels. The panels must be "V'd" at a 20 degree
angle. The area to be reinforced should be washed, then sanded. Be sure to wipe off any excess soap and water
when finished. Lightly sand or abrade the plastic with an abrasive pad or sandpaper. Blow off any dust with
compressed air or wipe with a clean dry rag.
When bonding plastic panels, follow repair material manufacturers recommendations. Be sure that enough
adhesive has been applied to allow squeeze out and to fill the full bond line. Once the pieces have been brought
together, do not move them until the adhesive is cured. The assembly can be held together with clamps, rivets,
etc. A faster cure can be obtained by heating with a heat lamp or heat gun. After the parts have been bonded and
have had time to cure, rough sand the seam and apply the final adhesive filler to the area being repaired. Smooth
the filler with a spreader, wooden tongue depressor, or squeegee. For fine texturing, a small amount of water
can be applied to the filler surface while smoothing. The cured filler can be sanded as necessary and, as a final
step, cleanup can be done with soapy water. Wipe the surface clean with a dry cloth allowing time for the panel
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to dry before moving on with the repair.
PANEL REINFORCEMENT
Fig. 2: Identifying Softened Edges

1 - SOFTENED EDGES
2 - PANEL ADHESIVE
3 - BONDING STRIP
Structural repair procedures for rigid panels with large cracks and holes will require a reinforcement backing.
Reinforcements can be made with several applications of glass cloth saturated with structural adhesive. Semi-
rigid or flexible repair materials should be used for semi-rigid or flexible backing reinforcement and open
meshed fiberglass dry wall tape can be used to form a reinforcement. The dry wall tape allows the resin to
penetrate through and make a good bond between the panel and the adhesive. Structurally, the more dry wall
tape used, the stronger the repair.
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Fig. 3: Identifying Panel Reinforcement

1 - PANEL ADHESIVE
2 - REINFORCEMENT
Another kind of repair that can be done to repair large cracks and holes is to use a scrap piece of similar plastic
and bond with structural adhesive. The reinforcement should cover the entire break and should have a generous
amount of overlap on either side of the cracked or broken area.
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Fig. 4: Beveling 20 Degree Angle

When repairing plastic, the damaged area is first "V'd" out, or beveled. Large bonding areas are desirable when
repairing plastic because small repairs are less likely to hold permanently. Beveling the area around a crack at a
20° angle will increase the bonding surface for a repair. It is recommended that sharp edges be avoided because
the joint may show through after the panel is refinished.
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Fig. 5: Applying Fiberglass Tape

Panel repair for both flexible and rigid panels are basically the same. The primary difference between
flexible panel repair and rigid panel repair is in the adhesive materials used.
The technician should first decide what needs to be done when working on any type of body panel. One
should determine if it is possible to return the damage part to its original strength and appearance without
exceeding the value of the replacement part.
When plastic repairs are required, it is recommended that the part be left on the vehicle when ever
possible. That will save time, and the panel will remain stationary during the repair. Misalignment can
cause stress in the repair areas and can result in future failure.
VISUAL INSPECTION
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Fig. 6: Identifying Damaged Component

1 - PUNCTURE
Composite materials can mask the severity of an accident. Adhesive bond lines, interior structure of the doors,
and steel structures need to be inspected carefully to get a true damage assessment. Close inspection may
require partial removal of interior trim or inner panels.
Identify the type of repair: Puncture or Crack - Damage that has penetrated completely through the panel.
Damage is confined to one general area; a panel section is not required. However, a backer panel, open
fiberglass tape, or matted material must be bonded from behind.
PANEL SURFACE PREPARATION
If a body panel has been punctured, cracked, or crushed, the damaged area must be removed from the panel to
achieve a successful repair. All spider web cracks leading away from a damaged area must be stopped or
removed. To stop a running crack in a panel, drill a 6 mm (0.250 in.) hole at the end of the crack farthest away
from the damage. If spider web cracks can not be stopped, the panel would require replacement. The surfaces
around the damaged area should be stripped of paint and freed from wax and oil. Scuff surfaces around repair
area with 360 grit wet/dry sandpaper, or equivalent, to assure adhesion of repair materials.
PATCHING PANELS
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Fig. 7: Identifying Damaged Panel Cutout and Patch

1 - CUTOUT
2 - DAMAGED BODY PANEL
3 - 4 MM (0.160 IN.) HOLES
4 - PATCH CUT TO SIZE
A panel that has extensive puncture type damage can be repaired by cutting out the damaged material. Use a
suitable reciprocating saw or cut off wheel to remove the section of the panel that is damaged. The piece cut out
can be used as a template to shape the new patch. It is not necessary to have access to the back of the panel to
install a patch. Bevel edges of cutout at 20° to expose a larger bonding area on the outer side. This will allow for
an increased reinforcement areas.
PANEL PATCH FABRICATIONS
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Fig. 8: Fabricating Panel

1 - STRUCTURAL ADHESIVE
2 - FIBERGLASS CLOTH OR FIBERGLASS MESH TAPE
3 - WIDTH OF V-GROOVE
4 - WAXED PAPER
A patch can be fabricated from any rigid fiberglass panel that has comparable contour with the repair area. Lift
gates and fenders can be used to supply patch material. If existing material is not available or compatible, a
patch can be constructed with adhesive and reinforcement mesh (dry wall tape). Perform the following
operation if required:
1. Cover waxed paper or plastic with adhesive backed nylon mesh (dry wall tape) larger than the patch
required.
2. Tape waxed paper or plastic sheet with mesh to a surface that has a compatible contour to the repair area.
3. Apply a liberal coat of adhesive over the reinforcement mesh. If necessary apply a second or third coat of
adhesive and mesh after first coat has cured. The thickness of the patch should be the same as the repair
area.
4. After patch has cured, peel waxed paper or plastic from the back of the patch.
5. If desired, a thin film coat of adhesive can be applied to the back of the patch to cover mesh for added
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strength.
PANEL PATCH INSTALLATION
Fig. 9: Securing Support Squares to Body Panel

1 - SUPPORT SQUARES
2 - SCREWS
3 - DAMAGED BODY PANEL
1. Make a paper or cardboard pattern the size and shape of the cutout hole in the panel.
2. Trim 3 mm (0.125 in.) from edges of pattern so patch will have a gap between connecting surfaces.
3. Using the pattern as a guide, cut the patch to size.
4. Cut scrap pieces of patch material into 50 mm (2 in.) squares to use as patch supports to sustain the patch
in the cutout.
5. Drill 4 mm (0.160 in.) holes 13 mm (0.5 in.) in from edge of cutout hole.
6. Drill 4 mm (0.160 in.) holes 13 mm (0.5 in.) away from edge of patch across from holes drilled around
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cutout.
7. Drill 3 mm (0.125 in.) holes in the support squares 13 mm (0.5 in.) from the edge in the center of one
side.
8. Scuff the backside of the body panel around the cutout hole with a scuff pad or sandpaper.
9. Mix enough adhesive to cover one side of all support squares.
10. Apply adhesive to cover one side of all support squares.
11. Using number 8 sheet metal screws, secure support squares to back side of body panel with adhesive
sandwiched between the panel and squares.
Fig. 10: Positioning Patch In Cutout and Aligning

1 - CUTOUT
2 - SUPPORT SQUARES
12. Position patch in cutout against support squares and adjust patch until the gap is equal along all sides.
13. Drill 3 mm (0.125 in.) holes in the support squares through the pre-drilled holes in the patch.
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Fig. 11: Applying Adhesive to Support Squares

1 - APPLICATOR
2 - SUPPORT SQUARES
3 - ADHESIVE
14. Apply a coat of adhesive to the exposed ends of the support squares.
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Fig. 12: Installing Screws

1 - PATCH
2 - GAP
15. Install screws to hold the patch to support squares. Tighten screws until patch surface is flush with panel
surface.
16. Allow adhesive to cure, and remove all screws.
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Fig. 13: Grinding Surface

1 - PATCH
2 - GAP
3 - DISC GRINDER
17. Using a 125 mm (5 in.) 24 grit disc grinder, grind a 50 mm (2 in.) to 75 mm (3 in.) wide and 2 mm (0.080
in.) deep path across the gaps around the patch. With compressed air, blow dust from around patch.
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Fig. 14: Covering Gaps With Mesh

1 - GROUND DOWN AREA

2 - PATCH
3 - MESH
18. Apply adhesive backed nylon mesh (dry wall tape) over gaps around patch.
19. Mix enough adhesive to cover the entire patch area.
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Fig. 15: Covering Mesh With Adhesive

1 - ADHESIVE
2 - MESH
3 - PATCH
4 - SPREADER
20. Apply adhesive over the mesh around patch, and smooth epoxy with a wide spreader to reduce finish
grinding. Use two to three layers of mesh and adhesive to create a stronger repair.
PATCHED PANEL SURFACING
After patch panel is installed, the patch area can be finished using the same methods as finishing other types of
body panels. If mesh material is exposed in the patched area, grind surface down, and apply a coat of high
quality rigid plastic body filler. Prime, block sand, and paint as required.
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HEAT STAKING
1. Remove trim panel.

2. Bend or move the trim panel components at the heat staked joints. Observe the heat staked locations
and/or component seams for looseness.
3. Heat stake the components.
 If the heat staked or component seam location is loose, hold the two components tightly together
and using a soldering gun with a flat tip, melt the material securing the components together. Do
not over heat the affected area, damage to the exterior of the trim panel may occur.
 If the heat staked material is broken or missing, use a hot glue gun to apply new material to the area
to be repaired. The panels that are being heat staked must be held together while the applying the
glue. Once the new material is in place, it may be necessary to use a soldering gun to melt the
newly applied material. Do not over heat the affected area, damage to the exterior of the trim panel
may occur.
4. Allow the repaired area to cool and verify the repair.
5. Install trim panel.
BUZZ, SQUEAK & RATTLE
Buzz, Squeak & Rattles (BSR) may be caused by any one or more of the following and may be corrected as
indicated:
Loose fasteners should be tightened to specifications.

Damaged or missing clips should be replaced.
Damaged trim panels should be replaced.
Incorrectly installed trim panels should be reinstalled properly.
Many BSR complaints such as loose trim, can be serviced using the Mopar® Parts BSR Noise Reduction Kit.
This kit contains various tapes including foam, flock and anti-squeak used to eliminate noises caused by metal,
plastic and vinyl components. Long life lubricants and greases can also be used on a variety of components.
Refer to Buzz, Squeak & Rattle Kit for material contents and usage.
Buzz, Squeak & Rattle Kit

ITEM FEATURES APPLICATIONS SERVICE TEMP
Itch And Squeak An abrasion resistant material Between metal and metal, -40° to 225°
Tape thin enough to conform to metal and plastic, metal and Fahrenheit
most irregular surfaces. Stops vinyl, vinyl and plastic. (-40° to 107°
most itches and squeaks. Interior. Celsius)
Examples: Trim panels and
bezels.
Black Nylon Flock Nylon Flock with an Between metal and metal, -40° to 180°
aggressive acrylic adhesive. metal and plastic, vinyl and Fahrenheit
Provides for cushioning and plastic. (-40° to 82° Celsius)
compression fit, also isolates Examples: Pull cups, bezels,
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components. Water-resistant. clips, ducts, top cover to glass,

cowl panel.
High Density Tear resistant, highly resilient Between metal and metal, -40° to 180°
Urethane Foam and durable. metal and plastic. Water- Fahrenheit
resistant. (-40° to 82° Celsius)
Examples: I/P, heavy metal
rattles, isolating brackets.
Open Cell Foam Soft foam conforms to Wire harness and connector -40° to 180°
Tape irregular surfaces. wrap. Fahrenheit
Examples: Seals, gasket, (-40° to 82° Celsius)
wiring, heat ducts.
Closed Cell Low Soft, conformable. Water- Wherever bulk is needed. -40° to 180°
Density Foam Tape resistant. Prevents closing flutters and Fahrenheit
rattles when applied to door (-40° to 82° Celsius)
watershield.
Examples: Door, I/P.
NYE® Grease 880 Long life. Suspensions. -40° to 390°
Examples: Strut busings, sway Fahrenheit
bars. (-40° to 200°
Celsius)
Krytox® Oil Long life. Will not dry out or When access is not possible, -30° to 400°
harm plastics or rubber. oil will migrate to condition. Fahrenheit
Vinyl, rubber, plastic, metal. (-34° to 205°
Examples: Convertible top Celsius)
bushings, pull cups trim panel
inserts.
Krytox® Grease Long life. Will not dry out or Vinyl, rubber, plastic, metal, -30° to 400°
harm plastics or rubber. glass. Fahrenheit
Examples: Weather-strips, (-34° to 205°
backlite and windshield Celsius)
moldings.
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE
Close out panel bolts 2.5 - 22
Fender bolts 9 - 80
Front door carrier plate bolts 5.5 - 50
Front door exterior handle nuts 4.5 - 40
Front door hinge to A-pillar bolts 26 19 -
Front door hinge to door nuts 36.5 27 -
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Front door latch adjustment screw 4.5 - 40

Front door latch bracket screw to door shut face 7 - 60
Front door latch screw to door shut face 7 - 60
Front door latch striker bolts 26 19 -
Front door module screws 1.5 - 13
Front door speaker screws 1.5 - 13
Front door window motor screws 3.5 - 31
Front seat back recliner bolts 47.5 35 -
Front seat belt bolt 47.5 35 -
Front seat bolts/nuts riser to floor 62 46 -
Front seat nuts riser to frame 27.5 20 -
Front seat riser nuts to seat frame (Domestic) 47.5 35 -
Front seat riser nuts to seat frame (Export) 28 21 -
Grille opening reinforcement 10 - 85
Hood hinge to body bolts 20 15 -
Hood hinge to hood nuts 20 15 -
Hood latch bolts 13.5 10 -
Hood latch support bolts 8.5 - 75
Hood release handle bolts 4 3 -
Instrument panel center support bracket bolts 28 20.5 -
Instrument panel HVAC nuts/bolts 6 - 55
Instrument panel lower bolts 30.5 22.5 -
Instrument panel lower nuts 6 - 55
Instrument panel upper bolts 28 20.5 -
Lift gate exterior handle 8 6 -
Lift gate hinge to body bolts 28.5 21 -
Lift gate hinge to body nuts 28.5 21 -
Lift gate hinge to lift gate bolts 28.5 21 -
Lift gate striker screws 28 20.5 -
Load floor nuts 28 20.5 -
Outside mirror nuts 7 - 65
Radiator crossmember bolts 10 - 85
Rear door carrier plate bolts 5.5 - 50
Rear door hinge to B-pillar bolts 26 19 -
Rear door hinge to door nuts 36.5 27 -
Rear door latch adjustment screw 4.5 - 40
Rear door latch bracket screw to door shut face 7 - 60
Rear door latch screw to door shut face 7 - 60
Rear door latch striker bolts 26 19 -
Rear door exterior handle nuts 4.5 - 40
Rear door speaker screws 1.5 - 13
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3.5 - 31
Rear fascia support bolts 7 5 -
Rear seat belt anchor nut 62 46 -
Rear seat belt bolt 44.5 33 -
Rear seat 40 pivot bolt 27.5 20 -
Rear seat 40 power inverter screw 3 - 26.5
Rear seat 40 release lever 7 - 62
Rear seat 40 seat bolt 27.5 20 -
Rear seat 40 seat screw 10 - 88.5
Rear seat 40 shield screw 3 - 26.5
Rear seat 40 bracket bolts 47.5 35 -
Rear seat 60 bracket bolts 47.5 35 -
Rear seat hinge bolts 47.5 35 -
Rear seat recliner bolt 7 - 62
Rear seat riser bolts 10 - 88.5
Rear seat trim screws 3 - 26.5
Rear seat 60 belt attachment to seat back 47.5 35 -
Rear seat mounting bolts 54 40 -
Rear seat mounting nuts 62 46 -
Rear seat 60 release lever 7 - 62
Rear seat 60 seat bolt restraint 55 40.5 -
Rear seat 60 seat screw 8 - 71
Rear seat 60 seat screw 10 - 88.5
Rear seat 60 shield screw 3 - 26.5
Rear seat riser to seat frame bolts 10 7 -
Rear view mirror setscrew 1 - 15
Roof luggage rack bolts 6.2 - 55
Running boards bolts - - -
Running boards nuts 25 18.5 -
Side step nuts/bolts 23 17 -
Side view mirror nuts 7 - 65
Sunroof mounting bolts 9 - 80
Washer bottle bolt 10 - 85
SPECIAL TOOLS
SPECIAL TOOLS
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Fig. 16: Trim Stick C-4755

Fig. 17: Torx Bit Set C-4794-B

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Fig. 18: Moldings Remover C-4829-A

Fig. 19: Outer Belt Molding Remover - 9093

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Fig. 20: Strain Gauge Holder 9689-A

DOOR - FRONT
CARRIER PLATE
REMOVAL
CARRIER PLATE - FRONT DOOR
CAUTION: Do not attempt to remove the trim panel the conventional way. This door
panel has hooks holding it to the door rather than push pins. The door
module must be removed as an assembly. Carefully follow these
instructions in order to prevent unnecessary damage to the trim panel.
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Fig. 21: Using Battery Terminal Removal Tool To Disconnect Negative Battery Cable From Battery
1. Loosen the battery terminal nut and use a battery terminal removal tool (2) to disconnect the negative
battery cable from the battery (1).
2. Remove the trim panel from the door. See REMOVAL.
Fig. 22: Door Plug & Rear Exterior Handle Nut

3. Remove the door plug (2).
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4. Remove rear exterior handle nut (1).
Fig. 23: Door Glass & Window Regulator Liftplate

NOTE: The window must be in proper position to disengage glass. Release tab on
liftplate must be aligned with access hole in door module. Use a slotted
screwdriver in the slot on the window regulator liftplate, press gently
outboard while pressing down on the glass to release the glass from the
liftplate.
5. Remove the tape covering the access hole on the carrier plate and discard. Access the window regulator
liftplate through the hole in the carrier plate.
6. Push down the door glass (1) and use a slotted screwdriver to release the tab on the window regulator
liftplate (2). Lift the glass up and secure to the header.
Fig. 24: Removing/Installing Door Latch & Latch Bracket Securing Screws
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7. Remove the three screws (2) securing the door latch to the door shut face.
8. Remove the one screw (1) attaching the latch bracket to the door shut face.
Fig. 25: Electrical Connector, Carrier Plate, Screws & Door

9. Disconnect and remove the electrical connector (1) from the door (4).
10. Remove the 10 screws (3) from the carrier plate (2).
11. Disconnect the outside mirror electrical connector.
12. Remove the carrier plate (2) from the door (4).
Fig. 26: Disconnecting/Connecting Inside Lock Rod

NOTE: The window regulator is not serviceable. The new carrier plate will come
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equipped with the regulator assembly installed.
NOTE: All the lock rods are color coded to help identify the location for the
particular lock rod.
13. Disconnect the inside lock rod from the latch.
Fig. 27: Inside Lock Rod, Grommet & Carrier Plate

14. Disengage the grommet (2) and remove the inside lock rod (1) from carrier plate (3).
Fig. 28: Disconnecting/Installing Interior Handle Lock Rod

15. Disconnect the interior handle lock rod from the latch.
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Fig. 29: Grommet, Interior Handle Lock Rod & Carrier

16. Remove interior handle lock rod (2) and grommet (1) from carrier (3).
Fig. 30: Carrier & Interior Handle

17. Remove the interior lock rod from the interior handle.
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Fig. 31: Disconnecting/Connecting Latch Electrical Connector

18. Disconnect the latch electrical connector.
Fig. 32: Carrier Plate Slots

19. Turn the carrier plate over and slide the latch bracket assembly to remove from the carrier plate slots (1).
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Fig. 33: Push Pin, Handle & Spring

20. Remove the push pin (1) from the handle.

21. Remove the spring (3) and handle (2) from the carrier.
Fig. 34: Disconnecting/Connecting Speaker Electrical Connector

22. Disconnect the speaker electrical connector.

23. Remove speaker wire from wire clip.
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Fig. 35: Removing/Installing Speaker Bolts & Speaker

24. Remove the speaker bolts and speaker from the carrier.
Fig. 36: Identifying Connectors & Electrical Harness

25. Remove the electrical harness (4) from the carrier plate.
26. Release harness from all the hooks in the carrier plate.
27. Disconnect the connectors (1) from the module.
28. Disconnect the connector (3) from the window motor.
30. Remove the harness from the carrier plate.
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Fig. 37: Removing/Installing Screws And Module

31. Remove the screws and module from the carrier plate.
Fig. 38: Removing/Installing Screws And Window Motor

32. Remove the screws and window motor from the carrier plate.
INSTALLATION
CARRIER PLATE - FRONT DOOR
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NOTE: All the lock rods are color coded to help identify the location for the particular
lock rod.
1. Install the window motor and screws to the carrier plate and tighten to 3.5 N.m (31 in. lbs.).
Fig. 40: Removing/Installing Screws And Module

2. Install the module and screws to the carrier plate and tighten to 1.5 N.m (13 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 41: Identifying Connectors & Electrical Harness

3. Install the harness to the carrier plate.

4. Install the electrical harness (2) and seat the rubber grommet into the carrier plate.
5. Connect the electrical connector (3) to the motor.
6. Connect the electrical connectors (1) to the module.
7. Route the harness through all of the hooks in the carrier plate.

9. Install the speaker and bolts to the carrier and tighten to 1.5 N.m (13 in. lbs.).
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10. Connect the speaker electrical connector.

11. Install speaker wire to wire clip.

12. Install the handle (2) and spring (3) to the carrier.
13. Install the push pin (1) into the carrier, spring and the handle.
NOTE: Make sure that the push pin is seated flush with the carrier.
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Fig. 45: Identifying Carrier Plate Slots

14. Install the latch bracket assembly to the carrier plate slots (1) then slide the latch bracket until fully
seated.

15. Connect the latch electrical connector.
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16. Install the interior lock rod to the interior handle (2). Make sure the lock rod is positioned properly to the
carrier (1).
Fig. 48: Grommet, Interior Handle Lock Rod & Carrier

17. Install the interior lock rod (2) into the carrier plate (3) and seat the grommet (1).
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Fig. 49: Disconnecting/Installing Interior Handle Lock Rod

18. Connect the interior handle lock rod to the latch.

19. Install the inside lock rod (1) to the carrier plate (3) and seat the grommet (2).
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Fig. 51: Disconnecting/Connecting Inside Lock Rod

20. Connect the inside lock rod to the latch.

21. Connect the outside mirror electrical connector.

22. Install the electrical connector (1) to the door (4) and connect the electrical connector.
23. Align the carrier plate (2) to the door (4).
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24. Install the three screws (2) securing the door latch to the door shut face and tighten screws to 7 N.m (60
in. lbs.).
25. Install the one screw (1) attaching the latch bracket to the door shut face and tighten screw to 7 N.m (60
in. lbs.).

NOTE: The door glass must be in the full up position in order to access the rear
exterior handle nut. Use a light and a magnetic socket on the rear nut to
prevent dropping the nut into the door assembly.
26. Install the rear nut (1) to the exterior handle and tighten to 4.5 N.m (40 in. lbs.).
27. Install the door plug (2) to the door.
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28. Install the 10 screws (3) to the carrier plate (2) and tighten screws to 5.5 N.m (50 in. lbs.).

NOTE: The glass should snap into place. Make sure the glass is secure to the
liftplate by pulling up on the glass to verify.
29. Connect the door glass (1) to the window regulator (2) by sliding the glass down into the liftplate.
30. Apply the adhesive tape to the inspection hole of the carrier plate.
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Fig. 57: Removing/Installing Trim Panel

31. Install the trim panel to the door. See INSTALLATION.

32. Adjust the latch assembly, see ADJUSTMENTS.
33. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery.
NOTE: Cycle the door lock, open with interior and exterior door handles and operate
the power window to make sure everything is working properly and no binding
exists.
DOOR - FRONT
REMOVAL
DOOR - FRONT
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Fig. 59: Disconnecting/Connecting Door Harness Electrical Connector From/To Body Connector
2. Disconnect the door harness electrical connector (1) from the body connector (2) at the A-pillar.
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Fig. 60: Upper/Lower Hinges, Door & Nuts

NOTE: Use a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the location of the upper (1) and
lower (3) hinges on the door (2) for alignment during Reinstallation.
3. Support the door with a suitable lifting device.

4. Remove the nuts (4) attaching the door (2) to the upper (1) and lower (3) hinges.
5. Carefully remove the door (2) from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
DOOR - FRONT

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1. Carefully position the door (2) to the upper (1) and lower (3) hinges using a suitable lifting device.
2. Loosely install the nuts (4) to the door studs and hinges at the lower A-pillar.
3. Align the door to the body using the reference marks made during the removal procedure.
4. Tighten the hinge to door nuts to 36.5 N.m (27 ft. lbs.).
5. Connect the door harness electrical connector (1) to the body connector (2) at the lower A-pillar.
7. If necessary, adjust the front door. See ADJUSTMENTS.
ADJUSTMENTS
DOOR - FRONT
NOTE: For vehicles with four doors, it is recommended that you adjust the rear door
before adjusting the front door. See ADJUSTMENTS.
Door adjustment measurements should be taken from stationary or

welded body panels like the roof, rocker or quarter panels.
During adjustment procedures, it is recommended that all the hinge
fasteners be loosened except for the upper most fasteners. Adjustments
can be made using the upper bolts to hold the door with final torque of the
fasteners occurring after correct door positioning is achieved.
A suitable body sealant should be used when removing or moving the
hinges.
FORE/AFT
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NOTE: Fore/aft (lateral) door adjustment is done by loosening the hinge to the hinge
pillar fasteners one hinge at a time and moving the door to the correct position.

2. Loosen the hinge to hinge pillar fasteners. See REMOVAL.
3. Adjust the door to the correct position. See SPECIFICATIONS.
4. Tighten the hinge pillar fasteners to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.).
UP/DOWN
NOTE: Up/down door adjustment is done by loosening either the hinge to the hinge
pillar fasteners or the hinge to door fasteners and moving the door to the
correct position.
NOTE: When the up/down adjustments are done correctly, the top of the door is
positioned over flush to the roof. See SPECIFICATIONS.

2. Loosen the latch striker bolts. See REMOVAL.
3. Loosen the hinge to door fasteners. See REMOVAL or loosen the hinge to hinge pillar fasteners . See
REMOVAL.
5. Tighten the hinge pillar fasteners to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.) or the door to hinges fasteners to 36.5 N.m (27 ft.
lbs.).
6. Tighten the latch striker bolts. See INSTALLATION.
IN/OUT
NOTE: In/out door adjustment is done by loosening the hinge to door fasteners one
hinge at a time and moving the door to the correct position.

2. Loosen the latch striker bolts. See REMOVAL.
3. Loosen the hinge to door fasteners. See REMOVAL.
5. Tighten the door to hinges fasteners to 36.5 N.m (27 ft. lbs.).
6. Tighten the latch striker bolts. See INSTALLATION.
GLASS - FRONT DOOR
REMOVAL
GLASS - FRONT DOOR

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1. Remove the trim panel. See REMOVAL.


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Fig. 65: Removing/Installing Inner Door Weatherstrip

4. Remove the inner door weatherstrip. See REMOVAL.

5. Remove the tape covering the access hole on the carrier plate and discard. Access the window regulator
liftplate through the hole in the carrier plate.
6. Push down the door glass (1) and use a screw driver to release the tap on the window regulator liftplate
(2). Lift the glass up and secure the to the header.
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7. Remove the three screws (2) securing the door latch to the door shut face.
8. Remove the one screw (1) attaching the latch presenter to the door shut face.

9. Disconnect and remove the electrical connector (1) from the door (5).
10. Remove the rear exterior handle nut attaching the door handle to the latch presenter.
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Fig. 69: Removing/Installing Front Door Glass

13. Remove the door glass from the module opening in the door.
INSTALLATION
GLASS - FRONT DOOR

1. Install the door glass to the module opening in the door.
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2. Align the latch presenter to the rear exterior handle stud.

3. Align the carrier plate (2) to the door (4).
5. Install the three screws (2) securing the door latch to the door shut face and tighten screws to 7 N.m (60
in. lbs.).
6. Install the one screw (1) attaching the latch present to the door shut face and tighten screw to 7 N.m (60
in. lbs.).
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7. Install the 10 screws (3) to the carrier plate (2) and tighten screws to 5.5 N.m (50 in. lbs.).

NOTE: The glass should snap into place. Make sure the glass is secure to the
liftplate by pulling up on the glass to verify.
8. Connect the door glass (1) to the window regulator (2) by sliding the glass down into the liftplate.
9. Apply the adhesive tape to the inspection cover in the door module.
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10. Install the inner door weatherstrip. See INSTALLATION.

exterior handle nut. Use light and a magnetic socket on the rear nut to
prevent from dropping the nut into the door assembly.
HANDLE - EXTERIOR DOOR

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REMOVAL



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4. Remove the carrier plate. See REMOVAL.
Fig. 80: Removing/Installing Front Exterior Handle

5. Remove the front exterior handle nut and remove the handle from the door.
INSTALLATION
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1. Position the handle on the door and install the front nut and tighten to 4.5 N.m (40 in. lbs.).

2. Install the carrier plate to the door. See INSTALLATION.
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6. Adjust the latch. Refer to. See ADJUSTMENTS.
HANDLE - INTERIOR DOOR

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REMOVAL


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INSTALLATION


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carrier (1).

4. Install the trim panel. See INSTALLATION.
HINGE - FRONT DOOR
REMOVAL
HINGE - FRONT DOOR
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1. Remove the front door. See REMOVAL.
Fig. 92: Removing/Installing Front Door Hinge

lower (3) hinge on the body of the lower A-pillar for alignment during
installation.
2. Remove the four bolts (2) that secure the upper door hinge (1) and lower door hinge (3) to the body of the
lower A-pillar and remove the hinges.
INSTALLATION
HINGE - FRONT DOOR

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Fig. 93: Removing/Installing Front Door Hinge

1. Install the upper (1) and lower (3) hinges to the B-pillar and loosely install the bolts.
2. Align the hinges on the A-pillar using the reference marks made during the removal procedure and
tighten the bolts to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.).

3. Install the front door. See INSTALLATION.
LATCH - FRONT DOOR
REMOVAL
LATCH - FRONT DOOR
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1. Remove the carrier plate. See REMOVAL.

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3. Turn the carrier plate over and slide the latch bracket assembly to remove from carrier.
Fig. 98: Removing/Installing Slide Fork

4. Remove the slide fork from the latch bracket.
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Fig. 99: Release Rod & Swing Clips

5. Remove the release rod (1) by disengaging the two swing clips (2).
Fig. 100: Removing/Installing First Latch Attachment Point

NOTE: The latch has three attachment points to the latch bracket.
6. Remove the first latch attachment point from the latch bracket.
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Fig. 101: Removing/Installing Second Latch Attachment Point

7. Remove the second latch attachment point from the latch bracket.
Fig. 102: Removing/Installing Third Latch Attachment Point

8. Remove the third latch attachment point from the latch bracket and remove the latch from the latch
bracket.
INSTALLATION
LATCH - FRONT DOOR
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NOTE: The latch has three attachment points to the latch bracket and need to be
attached in the following order:
1. Install the first latch attachment point to the latch bracket.

2. It is necessary to align the third attachment point prior to attaching the second point, but do not attach at
this time.
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3. Install the second latch attachment point to the latch bracket.

4. Install the third latch attachment point to the latch bracket.
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5. Install the release rod (1) then engage the two swing clips (2).
Fig. 108: Removing/Installing Slide Fork

6. Install the slide fork to the latch bracket.
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seated.

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9. Install the carrier plate. See INSTALLATION.
Fig. 112: Adjusting Latch

10. Adjust the latch as needed. See ADJUSTMENTS.
ADJUSTMENTS
LATCH - FRONT DOOR
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Fig. 113: Adjusting Latch

1. Locate the access hole and remove tape covering adjustment hole.
2. Insert a 5/32" hex-wrench through hole and into adjustment screw (2). Loosen screw.
3. Operate outside handle several times to release any restriction because of mis-alignment.
4. Tighten adjustment screw to 4 N.m (35 in. lbs.).
5. Test handle for proper operation.
STRIKER - FRONT DOOR LATCH
REMOVAL
Fig. 114: Striker Loop, Bolts, Striker & B-Pillar

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1. Remove the bolts (2) from the striker latch (3).

2. Remove the latch striker (3) from the B-pillar (4).
INSTALLATION

NOTE: The striker needs to be properly orientated to the B-pillar. The striker loop (1)
must be installed to the inboard side of the B-pillar.
1. Install the striker (3) to the B-pillar (4).

2. Install the bolts (2) and tighten to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.).
3. Adjust the door as necessary. See ADJUSTMENTS, and for fit SPECIFICATIONS.
CYLINDER - FRONT DOOR LOCK
REMOVAL
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Fig. 116: Gasket, Door Lock Cylinder, Door, Carrier Plate & Door Lock Cylinder Retainer
1. Remove carrier plate from door, see REMOVAL.

2. Remove door lock cylinder retainer (5) from door lock cylinder (2).
3. Remove door lock cylinder (2) and gasket (1) from door (3).
INSTALLATION
Fig. 117: Gasket, Door Lock Cylinder, Door, Carrier Plate & Door Lock Cylinder Retainer
NOTE: The lever on the key cylinder needs to point forward.
1. Install lock cylinder (2) and gasket (1) to door (3).
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2. Install lock cylinder retainer (5) to door lock cylinder (2).
NOTE: Make sure the door lock cylinder (2) is engaged to the carrier plate (4).
3. Install the carrier plate to the door, see INSTALLATION.
RUN CHANNEL - FRONT DOOR GLASS
REMOVAL

1. Remove the door carrier plate from the door, see REMOVAL.

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2. Remove the front door glass from the window opening in the door. See REMOVAL.
Fig. 120: Removing/Installing Run Channel

3. Remove the run channel from the window opening in the door.
INSTALLATION

1. Install the run channel to the window opening in the door.
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2. Install the front door glass to the window opening in the door, see INSTALLATION.


4. Cycle the window several times to make sure the window doesn't bind on the outer weather-strip or run
channel.
PANEL - DOOR TRIM FRONT
REMOVAL
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1. Remove the door handle trim bezel (6).

2. Remove the fastener (5) from the handle area of the front door trim (4).
3. Use a very thin pry tool to remove the cap screw covers (3) from the front door trim (4).
4. Remove the screws (2) from the front door trim (4).
5. Remove the power window switch and disconnect the electrical connector.
6. Disengage the trim panel from the four way locator at the handle area of the trim panel, then carefully
remove the door trim panel (4) from the door (1) by lifting upward until removed from the door lock and
the mounting attachments on the carrier plate.
INSTALLATION

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CAUTION: Pay close attention to the plastic hook attachment points on the inside of
the door trim panel. Make sure that every hook is correctly positioned to
the door when installing the trim panel. Damage to the trim panel will
occur if the hooks in the door panel are not properly positioned to the
door during installation.
1. Connect the electrical connectors and install the power window switch.
2. Carefully install the door trim panel (4) to the door (1) by lifting upward and over the door lock into the
trim panel then attach the trim panel to the carrier plate attachment points.
3. Install the screws (2) and the cap screw covers (3) to the front door trim (4).
4. Install the fastener (5) at the handle area of the front door trim (4) and tighten screw to 5.5 N.m (50 in.
lbs.).
5. Install the door handle trim bezel (6).
REGULATOR - POWER WINDOW
REMOVAL
NOTE: The window regulator is part of the carrier plate and is not serviceable. Replace
the carrier plate if the regulator fails.
1. Replace the carrier plate, see REMOVAL.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the carrier plate, see INSTALLATION.
DOORS - REAR
CARRIER PLATE
REMOVAL
CARRIER PLATE - REAR DOOR
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Fig. 127: Removing/Installing Rear Door Trim Panel
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Fig. 128: Removing/Installing Door Plug & Rear Exterior Handle Nut

Fig. 129: Door Glass & Window Regulator

5. Access the window regulator through the hole in the carrier plate. Disconnect the window regulator (2)
from the door glass (1) and support the glass.
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Fig. 130: Removing/Installing Rear Door Latch Screws

6. Remove the three screws securing the door latch to the door shut face.
7. Disconnect the door harness electrical connector (1) from the body connector (2) at the B-pillar.
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9. Remove the electrical connector (1) from the door (4).
Fig. 133: Disconnecting/Installing Inside Lock Rod

NOTE: The window regulator is not serviceable. The new carrier plate will come
equipped with the regulator assembly installed.
11. Disconnect the inside lock rod from the latch.

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12. Disengage the grommet (2) and remove the inside lock rod (1) from carrier plate (3).
Fig. 135: Disconnecting/Connecting Interior Handle Lock Rod

13. Disconnect the interior handle lock rod from the latch.
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Fig. 137: Removing/Installing Interior Handle Lock Rod And Grommet

15. Remove the interior handle lock rod and grommet from the carrier.
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17. Turn the carrier plate over and slide the latch bracket assembly to remove from the carrier plate slots (1).
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20. Disconnect the speaker electrical connector.
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21. Remove the speaker bolts and speaker from the carrier.
Fig. 143: Carrier Plate Electrical Harnesses & Motor Connectors

23. Release harness from all the hooks in the carrier plate.
24. Disconnect the connector (2) from the motor.
26. Remove the harness from the carrier plate.
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27. Remove the screws and window motor from the carrier plate.
INSTALLATION
CARRIER PLATE - REAR DOOR

1. Install the motor and screws to the carrier plate and tighten to 3.5 N.m (31 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 146: Carrier Plate Electrical Harnesses & Motor Connectors

2. Install the harness to the carrier plate.

4. Connect the electrical connector (2) to the motor.
5. Route the harness through all of the hooks in the carrier plate.

7. Install the speaker and bolts to the carrier and tighten to 1.5 N.m (13 in. lbs.).
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8. Connect the speaker electrical connector.

9. Install speaker wire to wire clip.

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seated.

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Fig. 152: Removing/Installing Interior Handle Lock Rod And Grommet

14. Install the interior handle lock rod into the carrier and seat the grommet.

carrier (1).
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Fig. 154: Disconnecting/Connecting Interior Handle Lock Rod

16. Connect the interior handle lock rod to the latch.

17. Install the inside lock rod (1) to the carrier plate (3) and seat the grommet (2).
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Fig. 156: Disconnecting/Installing Inside Lock Rod

18. Connect the inside lock rod to the latch.

19. Install the carrier plate (2) to the door (4).

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Fig. 158: Removing/Installing Rear Door Latch Screws

21. Install the screws securing the door latch to the door shut face and tighten screws to 7 N.m (60 in. lbs.).
22. Install the 9 screws to the carrier plate and tighten screws to 5.5 N.m (50 in. lbs.).
23. Connect the door harness electrical connector (1) to the body connector (2) at the B-pillar.
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NOTE: Place the glass in the full down position in order to access the window
regulator.
26. Access the window regulator through the hole in the carrier plate. Connect the door glass (1) to the
window regulator (2).
27. Apply the adhesive tape to the inspection hole of the carrier plate.
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NOTE: Cycle the door lock, open with interior and exterior door handles and operate
the power window to make sure everything is working properly and binding
exists.
DOOR - REAR
REMOVAL
DOOR - REAR
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2. Disconnect the door harness electrical connector (1) from the body connector (2) at the B-pillar.
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Fig. 165: Removing/Installing Upper/Lower Hinges, Door & Nuts

lower (3) hinges on the door (2) for alignment during installation.
3. Support the rear door with a suitable lifting device.

4. Remove the nuts (4) attaching the door (2) to the upper (1) and lower (3) hinges.
5. Carefully remove the door (2) from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
DOOR - REAR

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1. Carefully position the door (2) to the upper (1) and lower (3) hinges using a suitable lifting device.
2. Loosely install the nuts (4) to the door studs and hinges at the B-pillar.
3. Align the door to the body using the reference marks made during the removal procedure.
4. Tighten the hinge to door nuts to 36.5 N.m (27 ft. lbs.).
5. Connect the door harness electrical connector (1) to the body connector (2) at the B-pillar.
7. Adjust the door as necessary. See SPECIFICATIONS.
ADJUSTMENTS
DOOR - REAR
NOTE: It is recommended that you adjust the rear door before adjusting the front door.
Door adjustment measurements should be taken from stationary or

welded body panels like the roof, rocker or quarter panels.
During adjustment procedures, it is recommended that all the hinge
fasteners be loosened except for the upper most fasteners. Adjustments
can be made using the upper fasteners to hold the door with final torque
of the fasteners occurring after correct door positioning is achieved.
FORE/AFT
NOTE: Fore/aft (lateral) door adjustment is done by loosening the hinge to the hinge
pillar fasteners one hinge at a time and moving the door to the correct position.
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2. Loosen the hinge to hinge pillar fasteners. See REMOVAL.
4. Tighten the hinge pillar fasteners to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.). See INSTALLATION.
NOTE: Use a suitable body sealer on the hinge to body mating surfaces.
UP/DOWN
NOTE: Up/down door adjustment is done by loosening either the hinge to the hinge
pillar fasteners or the hinge to door fasteners and moving the door to the
correct position.
NOTE: When the up/down adjustments are done correctly, the top of the door is
positioned over flush to the roof. See SPECIFICATIONS.

2. Remove the latch striker. See REMOVAL.
3. Loosen the hinge to hinge pillar fasteners. See REMOVAL or loosen the hinge to door fasteners . See
REMOVAL.
5. Tighten the hinge pillar fasteners to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.) or the door to hinges fasteners to 36.5 N.m (27 ft.
lbs.). See INSTALLATION.
6. Install the latch striker. See INSTALLATION.
IN/OUT
NOTE: In/out door adjustment is done by loosening the hinge to door fasteners one
hinge at a time and moving the door to the correct position.

2. Remove the latch striker. See REMOVAL.
3. Loosen the hinge to door fasteners. See REMOVAL.
4. Adjust the front of the door to the correct position. See SPECIFICATIONS.
5. Tighten the door to hinges fasteners to 36.5 N.m (27 ft. lbs.).
6. Install the latch striker. See INSTALLATION.
APPLIQUE - REAR DOOR
REMOVAL
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Fig. 168: Removing/Installing Rear Door Applique

1. Use a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the door applique (1) from the rear door (2).
INSTALLATION
Fig. 169: Removing/Installing Rear Door Applique

1. Align the door applique (1) to the rear door (2) and apply enough hand pressure in order to make sure the
clips are fully seated.
GLASS - REAR DOOR
REMOVAL
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GLASS - REAR DOOR

Fig. 171: Removing/Installing Inner Belt Molding Outboard

2. Rotate the inner belt molding outboard while pulling up to disengage the retention tabs.
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NOTE: Place the glass in the full down position in order to access the window
regulator.
3. Access the window regulator through the hole in the carrier plate. Disconnect the window regulator (2)
from the door glass (1).
Fig. 173: Rotating Glass Upward/Downward Inside Run Channel

NOTE: The following two graphics are shown with the carrier removed for clarity.
4. Rotate the glass upward inside the run channel.
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Fig. 174: Removing/Installing Rear Door Glass

5. Remove the door glass from the window opening in the door.
INSTALLATION
GLASS - REAR DOOR

NOTE: The following two graphics are shown with the carrier removed for clarity.
1. Install the door glass to the window opening in the door.
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Fig. 176: Rotating Glass Upward/Downward Inside Run Channel

2. Rotate the glass downward into the run channel.

3. Access the window regulator through the hole in the carrier plate. Connect the door glass (1) to the
window regulator (2).
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4. Press the belt molding onto the trim panel flange starting at the rear and working forward.

5. Install the trim panel. See INSTALLATION.

6. Cycle the window several times to make sure the window doesn't bind on the outer weatherstrip or run
channel.
REMOVAL
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1. Remove the trim panel from the door, see REMOVAL.

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4. Remove the carrier plate, see REMOVAL.

5. Remove the front exterior handle nut and remove the handle from the door.
INSTALLATION
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1. Install the handle and front exterior handle nut to the door and tighten to 4.5 N.m (40 in. lbs.).

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5. Install the trim panel to the door, see INSTALLATION.
REMOVAL
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1. Remove the door trim panel, see REMOVAL.

2. Remove the interior lock rod from the interior handle (2).


INSTALLATION
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carrier (1).
4. Install the door trim panel, see INSTALLATION.
HINGE - REAR DOOR
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REMOVAL
HINGE - REAR DOOR

1. Remove the rear door, see REMOVAL.
Fig. 193: Upper/Lower Door Hinge & Bolts

lower (3) hinge on the body of the lower B-pillar for alignment during
installation.
2. Remove the (2) that secure the upper door hinge (1) and lower door hinge (3) to the body of the B-pillar
and remove the hinges.
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INSTALLATION
HINGE - REAR DOOR
Fig. 194: Upper/Lower Door Hinge & Bolts

1. Install the upper (1) and lower (3) hinges onto B-pillar and loosely install the bolts (2).
2. Align the hinges to the B-pillar using the reference marks made during the removal procedure and tighten
the bolts to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.).

3. Install the rear door, see INSTALLATION.
LATCH - REAR DOOR
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REMOVAL
LATCH - REAR DOOR

1. Remove the carrier plate, see REMOVAL.

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3. Turn the carrier plate over and slide the latch bracket assembly to remove from carrier.

4. Remove the release rod (1) by disengaging the two swing clips (2).
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NOTE: The latch has three attachment points to the latch bracket.
5. Remove the first latch attachment point from the latch bracket.

6. Remove the second latch attachment point from the latch bracket.
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7. Remove the third latch attachment point from the latch bracket and remove the latch from the latch
bracket.
INSTALLATION
LATCH - REAR DOOR

NOTE: The latch has three attachment points to the latch bracket and need to be
attached in the following order:
1. Install the first latch attachment point to the latch bracket.
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2. It is necessary to align the third attachment point prior to attaching the second point, but do not attach at
this time.

3. Install the second latch attachment point to the latch bracket.
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4. Install the third latch attachment point to the latch bracket.

5. Install the release rod (1) then engage the two swing clips (2).
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seated.

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Fig. 211: Adjusting Rear Door Latch

9. Adjust the latch as needed, see ADJUSTMENTS.
ADJUSTMENTS
LATCH - REAR DOOR
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Fig. 212: Adjusting Rear Door Latch

1. Locate the access hole on door (1) and remove tape (2) covering it.
2. Insert a 5/32" hex-wrench through hole and into adjustment screw. Loosen screw.
3. Operate outside handle several times to release any restriction because of mis-alignment.
4. Tighten adjustment screw to 4.5 N.m (40 in. lbs.).
5. Test handle for proper operation.
STRIKER - REAR DOOR LATCH
REMOVAL

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1. Remove the bolts (2) from the striker latch (3).

2. Remove the latch striker (3) from the B-pillar (4).
INSTALLATION

NOTE: The striker needs to be properly orientated to the B-pillar. The striker loop (1)
must be installed to the inboard side of the B-pillar.
1. Install the striker (3) to the B-pillar (4).

2. Install the bolts (2) and tighten to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.).
3. Adjust the door as necessary, see SPECIFICATIONS.
RUN - REAR DOOR GLASS
REMOVAL
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1. Remove the carrier plate from the door, see REMOVAL.

2. Remove the rear door glass from the window opening in the door, see REMOVAL.
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3. Remove the run channel from the window opening in the door.
INSTALLATION

1. Install the run channel to the window opening in the door.
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2. Install the rear door glass to the window opening in the door, see INSTALLATION.


4. Cycle the window several times to make sure the window doesn't bind on the outer weatherstrip or run
channel.
PANEL - DOOR TRIM REAR
REMOVAL
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1. Remove the door handle trim bezel (6).

2. Remove the fastener (5) from the handle area of the front door trim (4).
3. Use a very thin pry tool to remove the cap screw covers (3) from the door trim (4).
4. Remove the screws (2) from the front door trim (4).
5. Remove the power window switch and disconnect the electrical connector.
6. Disengage the trim panel from the four way locator at the handle area of the trim panel, then carefully
remove the door trim panel (4) from the door (1) by lifting upward until removed from the door lock and
the mounting attachments on the carrier plate.
INSTALLATION

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1. Carefully install the door trim panel (4) to the door (1) by lifting upward and over the door lock into the
trim panel then attach the trim panel to the carrier plate attachment points.
2. Connect the electrical connector and install the power window switch.
3. Install the screws (2) to the front door trim (4).
4. Install the cap screw covers (3) to the front door trim (4).
5. Install the fastener (5) at the handle area of the front door trim (4) and tighten screw to 5.5 N.m (50 in.
lbs.).
6. Install the door handle trim bezel (6).
REMOVAL
1. Replace the carrier plate, see REMOVAL.
INSTALLATION
EXTERIOR
APPLIQUE - FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL
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Fig. 223: Screws, Fender & Applique

1. Remove the two screws (1) from the fender applique (3).
2. Use a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, separate the fender applique (3) from the fender (2).
INSTALLATION

1. Align the fender applique (3) to the fender assembly (2) and apply enough hand pressure in order to make
sure the clips are fully seated.
2. Install the two screws (1) to the fender applique (3).
RADIATOR CROSSMEMBER
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REMOVAL
CROSSMEMBER - RADIATOR CLOSURE
Fig. 225: Crossmember, Rivet, Bolts & Hood Latch Support

1 - CROSSMEMBER
2 - RIVETS
3 - BOLTS (4)
4 - BOLTS (2)
5 - HOOD LATCH SUPPORT
1. Remove the grille, see REMOVAL.

2. Remove the hood latch, see REMOVAL.
3. Remove the rivet securing the washer bottle to the crossmember.
4. Remove the rivets attaching the hood latch support to the crossmember.
5. Remove the bolts (4) and remove the hood latch support (5).
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6. Remove the bolts (3) and remove the crossmember (1).
INSTALLATION
CROSSMEMBER - RADIATOR CLOSURE
Fig. 226: Crossmember, Rivet, Bolts & Hood Latch Support

1 - CROSSMEMBER
2 - RIVETS
3 - BOLTS (4)
4 - BOLTS (2)
5 - HOOD LATCH SUPPORT
1. Install the crossmember (1) and install the bolts (3).

2. Tighten the bolts to 10 N.m (85 in. lbs.).
3. Install the hood latch support (5) and install the bolts (4).
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4. Tighten the bolts to 10 N.m (85 in. lbs.).

5. Install new rivets (2) attaching the hood latch support to the crossmember.
6. Install the hood latch, see INSTALLATION.
7. Install the grille, see INSTALLATION.
8. Install a new rivet securing the washer bottle to the crossmember.
DOOR - FUEL FILL
REMOVAL
DOOR - FUEL FILL
Fig. 227: Fuel Fill Door/Housing

1 - FUEL FILL DOOR

2 - HOUSING TABS
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1. Remove the fuel cap.

2. Remove the three screws connecting the fuel door/housing to the filler neck.
3. Reach in through the opening and depress the tabs (2) at the upper and bottom right of the door/housing.
4. Remove the fuel door/housing from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
DOOR - FUEL FILL
Fig. 228: Fuel Fill Door/Housing

1 - FUEL FILL DOOR

2 - HOUSING TABS
1. Position the fuel filler door/housing into the vehicle and fully seat the tabs (2).
2. Install the three screws.
3. Install the fuel cap.
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FENDER - FRONT
REMOVAL
FENDER - FRONT
Fig. 229: Removing/Installing Fascia Assembly

1 - Fascia Support Bracket

2 - Fastener
3 - Carrier
4 - Fog Lamp Connectors
5 - Fascia
6 - Push Pins
7 - Rivet
1. Remove the front fascia, refer to REMOVAL .

2. Remove the front fascia support bracket (1).
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4. Remove the two screws (1) from the fender applique (3).
6. Remove the front wheel opening flare molding, see REMOVAL.
Fig. 231: Removing/Installing Fender

7. Remove the bolts and remove the fender.
INSTALLATION
FENDER - FRONT
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Fig. 232: Removing/Installing Fender

NOTE: Follow the mandatory torque sequence when tightening the fender bolts.
1. Align the fender with adjacent body parts, install and tighten bolt (2) first then tighten bolt (1) then all
remaining bolts (3). Tighten all bolts to 9 N.m (80 in. lbs.). Make sure there are no excessive gaps
between the fender and the door assemblies, see SPECIFICATIONS.
2. Install the front wheel opening flare molding, see INSTALLATION.

3. Align the fender applique (3) to the fender assembly (2) and apply enough hand pressure in order to make
4. Install the two screws (1) to the fender applique (3).
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Fig. 234: Removing/Installing Fascia Assembly

1 - Fascia Support Bracket

2 - Fastener
3 - Carrier
4 - Fog Lamp Connectors
5 - Fascia
6 - Push Pins
7 - Rivet
6. Install the fender support bracket (1).

7. Install the fascia assembly, refer to INSTALLATION .
GLASS - OUTSIDE REARVIEW MIRROR
REMOVAL
WARNING: Always wear eye and hand protection when servicing the mirror
assembly. Failure to observe these warnings may result in personal injury
from broken glass.
1. Carefully pull/pry the broken glass holder from the mirror assembly.
2. Disconnect the heated mirror electrical connectors from the terminals on the mirror glass holder, if
equipped.
INSTALLATION
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CAUTION: It is important to make sure the motor is square to the glass holder
(attaching fingers) prior to glass holder attachment, otherwise the glass
holder could be installed incorrectly causing poor retention and possible
repeat failure.
1. Position the new mirror glass holder to the mirror assembly.
NOTE: Position the mirror glass holder so that the moisture drain hole on the
mirror glass holder assembly is facing downward.
2. Align the mirror glass holder's attaching fingers to the mirror motor housing.
NOTE: Ensure that the protective rubber cover of the mirror motor housing is
positioned correctly around the bottom of the fingers area.
3. Using one hand, firmly press the mirror glass holder assembly into place while at the same time
supporting the housing assembly from the backside with the other hand.
NOTE: Pressure must be applied equally over the center portion of the mirror to
engage the mirror glass holder's attaching fingers to the corresponding
fingers on the housing assembly. One or more clicks may be heard when
finger engagement takes place.
4. Verify retention of the mirror glass holder assembly by gently pulling outward on the mirror glass holder.
GRILLE - RADIATOR
REMOVAL
GRILLE - RADIATOR
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Fig. 235: Grille Torx Screws LT

1. Remove the torx screws (1) from the grille to radiator support.
2. Remove the torx screw (2) from the grille to fender.
Fig. 236: Grille Torx Screws RT

3. Raise and support the hood.

4. Remove the torx screws (1) from the grille to radiator support.
5. Remove the torx screw (2) from the grille to fender.
Fig. 237: Removing/Installing Grille Push Pins

6. Remove the push pins (1) from the grille.
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Fig. 238: Grille Side Fastener

7. Carefully pull on the grille assembly to release the fasteners on both sides of the grille.
8. Remove the front lamp, side marker lamp and the turn signal lamp connectors.
Fig. 239: Grille Lower Fastener

9. Carefully pull on the grille assembly to release the fasteners located on the lower part of the grille.
10. Remove the front lamp units from both sides of the grille, refer to REMOVAL .
INSTALLATION
GRILLE - RADIATOR
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Fig. 240: Grille Lower Fastener

1. Install the front lamp units to both sides of the grille, refer to INSTALLATION .
2. Install the grille to the vehicle and connect the front lamp, side marker lamp and the turn signal lamp
connectors.
3. Carefully push the lower part of the grille until the lower grille fasteners lock properly into position.
Fig. 241: Grille Side Fastener

NOTE: This step requires proper positioning of the grille so as both side of the
grille are installed at the same time.
4. Position properly then carefully push the sides of the grille until the fasteners lock properly into position.
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Fig. 242: Removing/Installing Grille Push Pins

5. Install the push pins (1) to the grille.
Fig. 243: Grille Torx Screws

6. Install the torx screw (2) to the left side of the grille and fender.
7. Install the torx screws (1) to the left side of the grille and the radiator support.
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Fig. 244: Grille Torx Screws RT

8. Install the torx screw (2) to the right side of the grille and fender.
9. Install the torx screws (1) to the right side of the grille and the radiator support.
10. Lower the hood.
MIRROR - OUTSIDE REARVIEW
REMOVAL
Fig. 245: Mirror Assembly, Nuts & Electrical Connector

1 - MIRROR ASSEMBLY
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2 - NUTS (3)
3 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
1. Partially remove the door trim panel as necessary to gain access to the mirror. See REMOVAL.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector (3).
3. Remove the three nuts (2) and remove the mirror assembly (1).
INSTALLATION
Fig. 246: Mirror Assembly, Nuts & Electrical Connector

1 - MIRROR ASSEMBLY
2 - NUTS (3)
3 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
1. Install the mirror assembly (1).

2. Install the three nuts (2) and tighten to 7 N.m (65 in. lbs.).
3. Connect the electrical connector (3).
4. Install the trim panel, see INSTALLATION.
MOLDING - FRONT AND REAR DOOR
REMOVAL
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Fig. 247: Removing/Installing Front/Rear Door Molding

1. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove and discard the molding (1) from the outside of the door
(2).
INSTALLATION
Fig. 248: Removing/Installing Front/Rear Door Molding

1. Thoroughly clean all residue from the body side molding attachment area of the door.
2. Wipe area clean with a 50% solution of water and alcohol and wipe dry.
3. Apply new body side molding (1) using the locators in the door (2) and apply pressure of approximately
40 psi. over the entire surface of the molding.
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MOLDING - FRONT WHEEL OPENING FLARE
REMOVAL
Fig. 249: Removing/Installing Rivets Connecting Fender Flare To Wheel House Liner
1. Remove four rivets connecting the fender flare to the wheel house liner.
Fig. 250: Removing/Installing Fender Flare Molding

1 - Front Flare Clip

2 - Rear Flare Clip
3 - Front Flare Molding
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2. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, separate the front flare clips from the front of the molding (1),
and rear flare clips from the rear of the molding (2).
3. Remove the fender flare molding (3) from the fender.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 251: Removing/Installing Fender Flare Molding

1 - Front Flare Clip

2 - Rear Flare Clip
1. Position and install the front of the molding (1) and the rear of the molding (2) to the fender.
2. Align the front fender molding (3) to the fender assembly and apply enough hand pressure in order to
make sure the clips are fully seated.
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3. Install four rivets connecting the front fender flare molding to the wheel house liner.
MOLDING - REAR WHEEL OPENING FLARE
REMOVAL
Fig. 253: Rear Wheel Flare Molding - Front

1 - Door
2 - Rivets
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2. Open the rear door and remove the rivets (2) from the inside surface of the door (1).
3. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, separate the clips attaching the molding (3) to the door (1) and
remove the molding.
Fig. 254: Rear Wheel Flare Molding - Rear

1 - Body
2 - Rear Fascia
3 - Rear Flare Molding
4 - Rivets
4. Remove the tire and wheel in order to gain access to the rear wheel flare molding.
5. Remove the rivets (4) attaching the rear flare molding (3) to the body (1) and rear fascia (2).
6. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, separate the clips attaching the molding (3) to the body (1) and
the rear fascia (2) and remove the molding.
INSTALLATION
Microsoft
Fig. 255: Rear Wheel Flare Molding - Rear

1 - Body
2 - Rear Fascia
3 - Rear Flare Molding
4 - Rivets
1. Position and install the molding (3) to the body (1) and the rear fascia (2), then apply enough hand
pressure in order to make sure the clips are fully seated.
2. Install rivets (4) attaching the rear flare molding (3) to the wheel house liner, the body (1) and the rear
fascia (2).
Fig. 256: Rear Wheel Flare Molding - Front

1 - Door
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2 - Rivets
3. Position and install the molding (3) to the door (1), then apply enough hand pressure in order to make
4. Open the rear door and install rivets (2) to the inside surface of the door (1) and into the molding (3).
5. Install wheel and tire and torque the wheel nuts to 136 N.m (100 ft. lbs.).
MOLDING - SILL
REMOVAL
MOLDING - SILL
Fig. 257: Removing/Installing Sill Molding


2. Use a trim tool C-4755 or equivalent, remove the push pins located at the rear wheel opening (1).
3. Remove the push pins located at the front wheel opening (2).
4. Remove the eight rivets (3) from the sill molding and remove the sill molding from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
MOLDING - SILL
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Fig. 258: Removing/Installing Sill Molding

1. Install the sill molding to the vehicle and install the eight rivets (3) to the sill molding.
2. Install the push pins located at the front wheel opening (2).
3. Install the push pins located at the rear wheel opening (1).
NAME PLATES - EXTERIOR
REMOVAL
Fig. 259: Identifying Name Plate (1 Of 2)

1. Apply a length of masking tape on the body, parallel to the top edge of the nameplate to use as a guide, if
necessary.
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2. Apply a length of masking tape on the body, parallel to the top edge of the nameplate to use as a guide, if
necessary.
NOTE: Exterior nameplates are attached to body panels with adhesive tape.
3. If temperature is below 21°C (70°F) warm emblem with a heat lamp or gun. Do not exceed 52°C (120°F)
when heating emblem.
CAUTION: Use care when separating the emblem from the body surface to avoid
scratching the paint.
4. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, behind the emblem to separate the adhesive backing from the
body.
5. Clean adhesive residue from body with MOPAR® Super Clean solvent or equivalent.
INSTALLATION
Microsoft

NOTE: Before applying the emblem, clean the body surface with MOPAR® Super Kleen
solvent or equivalent.
1. Remove protective cover from adhesive tape on back of emblem.

2. Position the correct emblem properly on the body.

3. Position the correct emblem properly on the body.

4. Press emblem firmly to the body with the palm of hand.
5. If temperature is below 21°C (70°F) warm emblem with a heat lamp or gun to assure adhesion. Do not
exceed 52°C (120°F) when heating emblem.
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PANEL - A-PILLAR
REMOVAL
PANEL - A-PILLAR
Fig. 263: Push Pin, Windshield A-Pillar Molding & Clips

1. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the push pin (1).
2. Remove the windshield A-pillar molding (2) and clips (3) from the windshield A-pillar.
INSTALLATION
PANEL - A-PILLAR

Microsoft
1. Install the windshield A-pillar molding (2) and clips (3) to the windshield A-pillar.
2. Install the push pin (1).
RACK - LUGGAGE
REMOVAL
RACK - LUGGAGE
Fig. 265: Roof Rack Assembly

1 - Nuts
2 - Roof Rack
3 - Roof
1. Remove the five nuts (1) from the roof rack (2).
2. Remove the roof rack (2) from the roof (3).
INSTALLATION
RACK - LUGGAGE
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Fig. 266: Roof Rack Assembly

1 - Nuts
2 - Roof Rack
3 - Roof
1. Carefully install the roof rack (2) to the roof (3).

2. Install five nuts (1) and tighten the nuts to 6.2 N.m (55 in. lbs.).
RUNNING BOARD - FULL
REMOVAL
Fig. 267: Running Board

Microsoft
1. Remove the running board bolts (3).

2. Remove the running board nut (2).
3. Remove the running board (4) from the vehicle.
4. Remove the u-clip fasteners (1) from the vehicle body.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 268: Running Board

1. Install the u-clip fasteners (1) to the vehicle body.

2. Install the running board (4) and the nut (2) to the vehicle.
3. Install the running board bolts (3). Tighten the running board bolts (3) and nut (2) to 25 N.m (18.5 ft.
lbs.).
SCREEN - TOP COWL
REMOVAL
SCREEN - TOP COWL
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Fig. 269: Cowl Grille, Push Pins, Hood Seal & Body
1. Remove the wiper arms, refer to REMOVAL .

2. Remove the hood seal (3).
3. Use a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, separate the cover assembly from the A-pillar.
4. Remove the push pins (2) and remove the cowl grille (1) from the body (4).
INSTALLATION
SCREEN - TOP COWL
1. Position the cowl grille (1) and engage the clips to the bottom of the windshield.
2. Install the push pins (2) through the cowl grille (1) and into the body (4).
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3. Install the hood seal (3).

4. Install the wiper arms, refer to INSTALLATION .
SHIELD - FRONT WHEELHOUSE SPLASH
REMOVAL
1. Raise and support the vehicle, refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .

2. Remove the wheel and tire to gain access to the front wheel house liner.
3. Carefully remove four rivets from the front fender flare molding.
Fig. 272: Front Wheel House Splash Shield

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1 - FRONT WHEEL HOUSE LINER

2 - PUSH PINS
3 - RIVET
4 - PUSH PIN
5 - PUSH PINS
4. Remove the rivet (3) securing the wheel house liner to the lower front fascia.
5. Remove all push pins from wheel house liner.
6. Remove the wheel speed sensor harness from the wheel house liner.
7. Remove front wheel house liner from front wheel house opening.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 273: Front Wheel House Splash Shield

1 - FRONT WHEEL HOUSE LINER

2 - PUSH PINS
3 - RIVET
4 - PUSH PIN
5 - PUSH PINS
1. Install front wheel house liner (1) into front wheel house opening.
2. Install the wheel speed sensor harness to the wheel house liner.
3. Align and install three push pins (5) into holes in the wheel house liner and fender inner wheelhouse.
4. Align and install three push pins (2) into holes in the wheel house liner and front fascia.
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5. Install the rivet (4) connecting the splash shield to the side sill molding.
6. Install all remaining push pins.
7. Install the rivet (3) into the hole in the wheel house liner and lower front fascia.
8. Install four rivets to the front fender flare molding, wheel house liner and the fender.
9. Install wheel and tire and torque the wheel nuts to 136 N.m (100 ft. lbs.).
SHIELD - REAR WHEELHOUSE SPLASH
REMOVAL
Fig. 275: Rear Wheelhouse Splash Shield

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1. Remove the rear wheel flare molding, see REMOVAL.

2. Remove the two push pins securing the sill plate molding to the wheel liner and body.
3. Remove the four push pins (3) at the wheelhouse opening (1).
4. Remove the wheel liner (2) from the wheelhouse opening (1).
INSTALLATION
Fig. 276: Rear Wheelhouse Splash Shield

1. Install the wheel house liner (2) to the wheel house opening (1).
2. Install the four push pins (3) to the wheel house liner (2).
3. Install the two push pins securing the sill plate molding and the wheel house liner to the body.
4. Install the rear wheel flare molding, see INSTALLATION.
HOOD
BUMPER - HOOD
REMOVAL
BUMPER - HOOD
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Fig. 277: Hood Adjustment Bumper

1. Remove the hood adjustment bumpers.
INSTALLATION
BUMPER - HOOD
Fig. 278: Hood Adjustment Bumper

1. Install the hood adjustment bumpers. Make sure there are no excessive gaps between the areas around the
hood, adjust as necessary, see SPECIFICATIONS.
HINGE - HOOD
REMOVAL
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HINGE - HOOD


2. Remove the two screws (1) from the fender applique.
Fig. 280: Support Cylinder

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the hood to replace one or both hinges. The
hinges can be replaced one at a time.
4. Remove hood support cylinder, see REMOVAL.
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Fig. 281: Hood Hinge

5. Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark position of hinge (2).

6. Remove nuts (3) attaching hinge (2) to the body.
7. Remove nuts (1) attaching hinge (2) to hood.
8. Remove hinge (2) from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
HINGE - HOOD
Fig. 282: Hood Hinge

1. Install the hinge (2) to the vehicle use the reference position made during removal.
2. Install nuts (3) attaching hinge (2) to the body and tighten to 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.).
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3. Install nuts (1) attaching hinge (2) to hood and tighten to 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.).

4. Install hood support cylinder, see INSTALLATION.

5. Install the two screws (1) to the fender applique.
HOOD
REMOVAL
HOOD
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Fig. 285: Removing/Installing Hood

WARNING: Before removal of the nuts on the hood hinges get a helper to hold the
hood in position to keep from the hood falling from the vehicle causing
personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle.
NOTE: Use a grease pencil or equivalent, mark location of hood hinges on the hood for
installation and alignment purposes.
1. Remove nuts (3) attaching hinges (4) to hood (1).

2. With the aid of a helper, remove hood from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
HOOD
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Fig. 286: Removing/Installing Hood

1. With the aid of a helper, the position hood (1) onto the hinges (4).
2. Install nuts (3) finger-tight.
3. Align hinges with installation reference marks made previously and tighten bolts to 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.).
4. Inspect hood for proper alignment and adjust as necessary, see ADJUSTMENTS.
ADJUSTMENTS
HOOD
1. If hood is low in relation to cowl panel, insert shims between hinge and hood.
2. Adjust hood bumper in or out to adjust hood-to-fender height alignment.
3. Adjust the hood latch as necessary. Tighten the bolts to 13.5 N.m (10 ft. lbs.).
4. Align the latch striker so that striker enters the latch squarely and without binding.
LATCH - HOOD
REMOVAL
LATCH - HOOD
Fig. 287: Release Cable & Bolts

NOTE: Mark the location of the latch with a grease marker prior to removal from the
vehicle.
1. Remove the bolts (1) from the latch.

2. Disconnect the release cable (2) and remove the latch from the vehicle.
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INSTALLATION
LATCH - HOOD
Fig. 288: Release Cable & Bolts

1. Install the latch to the vehicle in the same position noted during removal.
2. Install the bolts (1) and tighten to 13.5 N.m (10 ft. lbs.).
3. Attach the latch release cable (2) to the latch.
RELEASE - HOOD LATCH
REMOVAL
Fig. 289: Latch Release Cable

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1 - Grommet
2 - Push Pin
3 - Latch Release Cable
4 - Hood Latch
5 - Latch Release Handle
1. Remove the latch release cable (3) from the latch (4).
2. Remove the push pin (2) from the grille, carefully remove the latch release cable from under the grille and
from the retaining tabs on the grille.
3. Remove the cowl trim cover.
4. Remove the bolts from the hood latch handle (5).
5. Pull from the inside of the vehicle to remove the cable. Disconnect any remaining attaching clips and pull
the cable grommet (1) and cable from the body.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 290: Latch Release Cable

1 - Grommet
2 - Push Pin
3 - Latch Release Cable
4 - Hood Latch
5 - Latch Release Handle
NOTE: Lubricate the grommet with soapy water to ease with installation of the latch
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release cable to the body.
1. Install the latch release cable (1) through the opening in the body from the inside of the vehicle. Pull from
the engine compartment until the grommet is seated properly in the body.
NOTE: Route the latch release cable in the same position as noted during
removal.
2. Install the latch release cable to the grille retaining tabs, carefully route under the push pin (2) connection
on the grille.
3. Install the push pin (2) to the grille.
4. Install the latch release cable (3) to the latch (4).
5. Install the bolts to the hood latch handle (5) and tighten to 4 N.m (33 in. lbs.).
6. Install the cowl trim cover.
RELEASE - HOOD LATCH HANDLE
REMOVAL
Fig. 291: Latch Release Handle

1. Remove the cowl trim panel, see REMOVAL.

2. Remove the two bolts (2) from the handle (1).
3. Disconnect the hood release cable (3) from the handle (1).
4. Remove the handle (1) from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Microsoft
Fig. 292: Latch Release Handle

1. Install the hood release cable (3) to the handle (1).

2. Install the two bolts (2) to the handle (1) and tighten to 4 N.m (33 in. lbs.)
3. Install the cowl trim cover, see INSTALLATION.
BRACKET - LATCH SUPPORT
REMOVAL
Fig. 293: Latch Support

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2. Remove the latch from the latch support, see REMOVAL.
3. Remove the upper bolts (1) and the lower bolts (3) from the latch support (2).
4. Remove the latch support (2) from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 294: Latch Support

1. Install the latch support (2) to the vehicle.

2. Install the upper bolts (1) and the lower bolts (3) to the latch support (2) and tighten to 8.5 N.m (75 in.
lbs.).
3. Install the latch to the latch support, see INSTALLATION.
SUPPORT - HOOD LATCH
REMOVAL
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Fig. 295: Removing/Installing Upper Support Cylinder Retaining Clip

1 - RETAINING CLIP
2 - BALL SOCKET
3 - BALL STUD
NOTE: The support cylinders can be replaced one at a time.
1. Open and support the hood.
NOTE: Lift the clips only enough to release the ball studs.
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Fig. 296: Removing/Installing Support Cylinder - Ball Socket - Typical

1 - BALL SOCKET
2 - RETAINING CLIP
3 - FLAT BLADED TOOL
4 - BALL STUD
2. Using a small flat bladed tool, or equivalent, release the upper retaining clips while pulling the ball socket
away from the ball stud.
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CAUTION: Do not pull the supports from the middle while removing.
3. Pulling at the ends only, remove the support cylinder.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 298: Support Cylinder Retaining Clip

1 - RETAINING CLIP
2 - BALL SOCKET
3 - BALL STUD
1. Make sure the retaining clips (1) are seated into the ball socket (2) fully.
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CAUTION: Do not install the support cylinders by pressing at the center of the
cylinder. Press the ends only.
2. Install the support cylinder over the ball studs with the thin end connected to the body side of the hinge
and the retaining clips snapping into place.
INSTRUMENT PANEL
WARNING
RESTRAINT SYSTEM
WARNING: To avoid personal injury or death, during and following any seat belt or
child restraint anchor service, carefully inspect all seat belts, buckles,
Replace any belt that has a damaged or inoperative buckle or retractor.
belt or child restraint component. Always replace damaged or faulty seat
belt and child restraint components with the correct, new and unused
replacement parts listed in the DaimlerChrysler Mopar® parts catalog.
WARNING: To avoid personal injury or death, on vehicles equipped with airbags,

disable the supplemental restraint system before attempting any steering
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WARNING: To avoid personal injury or death on vehicles equipped with airbags,

before performing any welding operations disconnect and isolate the
battery negative (ground) cable and disconnect all wire harness
connectors from the airbag control module (ACM). Failure to take the
other possible damage to the supplemental restraint system circuits and
components.
WARNING: To avoid personal injury or death, do not attempt to dismantle an airbag

unit or tamper with its inflator. Do not puncture, incinerate, or bring into
canister pressurized to over 2500 psi.
WARNING: To avoid personal injury or death, when handling a seat belt tensioner
WARNING: To avoid personal injury or death, replace all restraint system

components only with parts specified in the DaimlerChrysler Mopar®
parts catalog. Substitute parts may appear interchangeable, but internal
differences may result in inferior occupant protection.
WARNING: To avoid personal injury or death, the fasteners, screws, and bolts
originally used for the restraint system components must never be
replaced with any substitutes. These fasteners have special coatings and
are specifically designed for the restraint system. Any time a new fastener
is needed, replace it with the correct fasteners provided in the service
package or specified in the DaimlerChrysler Mopar® parts catalog.
WARNING: To avoid personal injury or death, when a steering column has an airbag
unit attached, never place the column on the floor or any other surface
with the steering wheel or airbag unit face down.
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BEZEL - CLUSTER
REMOVAL
BEZEL - CLUSTER
Fig. 300: Cluster Bezel

1. Before proceeding with the following repair procedure, review all warnings and cautions. See
WARNING.
NOTE: Position the steering column to the lowest position to ease in the removal
of the cluster bezel.
2. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the cluster bezel from the instrument panel assembly.
INSTALLATION
BEZEL - CLUSTER
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Fig. 301: Cluster Bezel

WARNING.
2. Position and install the cluster bezel to the instrument panel, use hand pressure to seat the bezel clips.
BEZEL - INSTRUMENT PANEL CENTER
REMOVAL
Fig. 302: Instrument Panel Center Bezel

WARNING.
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2. Set the park brake and move the transmission gear selector into the most rearward position.
3. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent and starting at the top of the center bezel, pry the bezel away
from the instrument panel far enough to disengage the snap clip retainers that secure it to the instrument
panel.
4. Reach behind the bezel to access and disconnect all electrical connections.
5. Remove the center bezel from the instrument panel.
6. Remove all heating and air conditioning vents, control units and power outlets from the center bezel.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 303: Instrument Panel Center Bezel

WARNING.
2. Install all heating and air conditioning vents, control units, power outlets to the center bezel.
4. Position the center bezel and seat the retaining clips starting with the lower clips first using hand pressure.
5. Place the transmission into park.
BEZEL - HVAC
REMOVAL
BEZEL - HVAC
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Fig. 304: Screw, Air Outlet, Trim Stick C-4755 & Instrument Panel
1. Remove the defroster grille, see REMOVAL.

2. Remove the A-pillar trim molding from the side of the vehicle being serviced, see REMOVAL.
3. Remove the screw (1) that secures the top of the air outlet (2) to the instrument panel (4).
4. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent (3), gently pry the lower portion of the air outlet rearward to
disengage the two metal retaining clips from the instrument panel and remove the outlet.
5. If required, carefully disengage the plastic retaining tabs that secure the air outlet grille to the back of air
outlet and remove the grille from the outlet.
INSTALLATION
BEZEL - HVAC
Microsoft
1. Carefully install the air outlet grille onto the back of air outlet and engage the plastic retaining tabs that
secure grille to the outlet. Make sure the retaining tabs are fully engaged.
2. Position the instrument panel air outlet(s) to the instrument panel and engage the two metal retaining clips
to the instrument panel. Make sure the retainers are fully engaged.
3. Install the screw (1) that secures the top of the air outlet (2) to the instrument panel (4). Tighten the screw
to 1.2 N.m (10 in. lbs.).
4. Install the A-pillar trim molding(s), see INSTALLATION.
5. Install the defroster grille, see INSTALLATION.
BIN - INSTRUMENT PANEL
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Carefully disengage the retaining clips on the instrument panel bin, make
sure the tool does not scratch the instrument panel assembly while
removing.
1. Remove the screws underneath the bin mat and remove bin.
2. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, release the clips attaching the instrument panel bin to the
instrument panel.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Carefully align the upper center tray clips to the instrument panel slots.
Make sure the panel is properly positioned to avoid breaking the clip tabs
on the bin.
1. Align and install the instrument panel bin to the instrument panel.
2. Use hand pressure to engage the instrument panel bin clips to the instrument panel slots.
3. Install screws underneath the bin mat and tighten.
BIN - STEERING COLUMN COVER
REMOVAL
1. Remove the steering column cover panel, see REMOVAL.

2. Use a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, disengage the lower hinges of the steering column cover bin from
the steering column cover panel.
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INSTALLATION
1. Install the steering column cover bin lower hinges to the steering column cover panel.
2. Install the steering column cover panel, see INSTALLATION.
COVER - STEERING COLUMN
REMOVAL
Fig. 306: Knee Blocker

WARNING.
2. Position the steering column into the highest position to ease in the removal of the steering column cover.
Reach into the steering column opening at the top of the steering column cover and pull the top rearward
to disengage cover blocker clips.
3. Gently swing the cover open.
4. While the cover is in a full down position, slide the cover to the left or outboard of the driver side, this
will allow the claws of the cover to disengage from the trim panel hinges, and then pull the cover
rearward to remove the steering column cover.
INSTALLATION
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WARNING.
2. Align steering column cover's claws to instrument panel tabs. When claws are aligned with tabs, slide the
cover to the right or inboard of the driver side to engage the claws over the instrument panels hinges.
3. Gently swing the steering column cover upward until the clips touch the corresponding slots in the
instrument panel and use hand pressure to engage the clips.
END CAP - INSTRUMENT PANEL
REMOVAL
Fig. 308: Instrument Panel End Cap

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WARNING.
2. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the end cap bezel from the instrument panel assembly.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 309: Instrument Panel End Cap

WARNING.
2. Position the end cap and seat the retaining clips using hand pressure.
GLOVE BOX - INSTRUMENT PANEL
REMOVAL
WARNING.
2. Open the glove box.
3. Squeeze the stop tabs located on the sides of the box while and swing the glove box door open.
4. With box in the full down position slide the box to the right off of the hinges and remove.
INSTALLATION
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WARNING.
2. Position the box on and slide the box to the left to engage the hinges.
3. Close the glove box.
GRILLE-DEFROSTER
REMOVAL
GRILLE-DEFROSTER
Fig. 310: Defroster Grille

CAUTION: Carefully disengage the retaining clips on the defroster grille, make sure
the tool does not scratch the instrument panel assembly while removing.
1. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, release the rearward edge clips, and secondly once the rearward
edge clips are released. Move in an upward and rearward direction to release the front edge clips of the
instrument panel top cover.
2. Remove the defroster grille from instrument panel.
INSTALLATION
GRILLE-DEFROSTER
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CAUTION: Carefully align the defroster grille clips to the instrument panel slots. Make
sure the panel is properly positioned to avoid breaking the clip tabs on the
defroster grille.
1. Position the defroster grille at a 45° angle and engage the forward clips first then engage the rear clips of
the defroster grille to the instrument panel.
2. Use hand pressure to engage the defroster grille clips to the instrument panel slots.
LATCH - GLOVE BOX DOOR
REMOVAL
WARNING.
2. Remove the glove box, see REMOVAL.
3. Remove the three screws and remove the glove box latch.
INSTALLATION
WARNING.
2. Position the latch to the glove box.
3. Install the three screws.
4. Install the glove box, see INSTALLATION.
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PANEL - INSTRUMENT
REMOVAL
PANEL - INSTRUMENT
column, or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect
and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for
the airbag system capacitor to discharge before performing further
diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the airbag
system. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in an
accidental airbag deployment and possible personal injury or death.
front wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
WARNING.
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Fig. 313: Instrument Panel, Slots & Moldings

3. Remove the right and left A-pillar trim moldings using a small pry tool or equivalent, lift the A-pillar trim
molding (3) from the A-pillar slots (2) releasing the clips on the molding.
Fig. 314: Removing/Installing Fasteners And Close Out Panels

4. Remove the fasteners and close out panels from the lower I/P.
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Fig. 315: Removing/Installing Floor Console

5. Remove the floor console, see REMOVAL.
Fig. 316: Removing/Installing Nuts And Instrument Panel Support Bracket

6. Remove the nuts and the instrument panel support bracket.
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7. Reach into the steering column opening at the top of the knee blocker and pull the top rearward to
disengage upper knee blocker clips.
8. Gently swing the knee blocker open.
9. While the cover is in a full down position, slide the cover to the left or outboard of the driver side, this
will allow the claws of the cover to disengage from the trim panel hinges, and then pull the cover
rearward to remove the steering column cover.
Fig. 318: Cowl Trim Panel

10. Remove the right and left cowl side panels, see REMOVAL.
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Fig. 319: Lower Instrument Panel

11. Remove bolts (1) and the nuts (2) from the lower instrument panel mounts.
NOTE: Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the position of the steering
wheel.
12. Remove the steering column from the vehicle, refer to REMOVAL .

CAUTION: Carefully disengage the retaining clips on the defroster grille. Make
sure the tool does not scratch the instrument panel assembly while
removing.
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13. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, release the rearward edge clips, and secondly once the rearward
edge clips are released. Move in an upward and rearward direction to release the front edge clips of the
instrument panel top cover.
14. Remove the defroster grille from the instrument panel.
Fig. 321: Upper Instrument Panel

15. Remove the bolts (2) attaching the instrument panel (1) to the body (3).
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Fig. 322: Pedal Support Bracket

16. Disconnect the electrical connector at the inner side of the pedal support bracket.
17. Remove the two bolts at the front of the pedal support bracket.
18. Remove the two bolts from the bottom side of the pedal support bracket.
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Fig. 323: Center Instrument Panel Attachment

19. Remove the instrument panel center bezel.

20. Disconnect the following electrical connections:
Control Head
Lighter
Switch Bank
21. Remove the fasteners from the center instrument panel attachment.
Fig. 324: Upper Instrument Panel Attachment

22. Remove the glove box, see REMOVAL.

23. Remove the fastener from the upper instrument panel attachment.
Fig. 325: Lower Instrument Panel Attachment

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24. Remove the fastener from the lower instrument panel attachment.
Fig. 326: 40 Way Electrical Connectors And NAG1 Connector

25. Disconnect the two 40 way electrical connectors (1) and the NAG1 connector for the transmission if
equipped.
26. Remove the electrical connections on the instrument panel harness.
27. Remove the instrument panel from the vehicle compartment.
INSTALLATION
PANEL - INSTRUMENT
Fig. 327: 40 Way Electrical Connectors And NAG1 Connector

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front wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
NOTE: Before proceeding with the following repair procedure, review all warnings and
cautions. See WARNING.
1. Install the instrument panel to the vehicle.

2. Connect the two 40 way electrical connectors (1) and the NAG1 connector for the transmission, if
equipped.
Fig. 328: Lower Instrument Panel Attachment

3. Install the fastener to the lower instrument panel attachment.
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Fig. 329: Upper Instrument Panel Attachment

4. Install the fastener to the upper instrument panel attachment.

5. Install the glove box, see INSTALLATION.
Fig. 330: Center Instrument Panel Attachment

6. Install the fasteners to the center instrument panel attachment.

7. Connect the following electrical connections:
Control Head
Lighter
Switch Bank
8. Install the instrument panel center bezel.
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Fig. 331: Pedal Support Bracket

9. Install the two bolts to the bottom side of the pedal support bracket.
10. Install the two bolts at the front of the pedal support bracket.
11. Connect the electrical connector at the inner side of the pedal support bracket.
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Fig. 332: Upper Instrument Panel

CAUTION: Make sure the clips located at the center stack and between the
HVAC duct and instrument panel are engaged before tightening the
upper instrument panel bolts.
12. Install the bolts (2) attaching the instrument panel (1) to the body (3) and tighten to 28 N.m (20.5 ft. lbs.).

CAUTION: Carefully align the defroster grille clips to the instrument panel slots.
Make sure the panel is properly positioned to avoid breaking the clip
tabs from the defroster grille.
13. Align and install the defroster grille to the instrument panel.
14. Use hand pressure to engage the defroster grille clips to the instrument panel slots.
15. Install the steering column to the vehicle, refer to INSTALLATION .
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Fig. 334: Lower Instrument Panel

16. Install the bolts (1) and tighten to 6 N.m (55 in. lbs.).
17. Install the nuts (2) to the lower instrument panel mounts and tighten to 30.5 N.m (22.5 ft. lbs.).

18. Install the right and left cowl side panels, see INSTALLATION.
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WARNING.
20. Align steering column cover's claws to instrument panel tabs. When claws are aligned with tabs, slide the
cover to the right or inboard of the driver side to engage the claws over the instrument panels hinges.
21. Gently swing the steering column cover upward until the clips touch the corresponding slots in the
instrument panel and use hand pressure to engage the clips.
Fig. 337: Removing/Installing Nuts And Instrument Panel Support Bracket

22. Install the instrument panel support bracket and nuts and tighten to 28 N.m (20.5 ft. lbs.).
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23. Install the floor console, see INSTALLATION.
Fig. 339: Removing/Installing Fasteners And Close Out Panels

24. Install the close out panels and the bolts to the lower I/P and tighten to 2.5 N.m (22 in. lbs.).
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25. Align the right and left A-pillar trim tabs on the moldings (3) to the top cover slot of the instrument panel
(1).
26. Align the two clips on the molding to the slots (2) on the A-pillar. Snap the A-pillar trim molding (3) into
place using hand pressure.
STRIKER - GLOVE BOX DOOR LATCH
REMOVAL
WARNING.
2. Open the glove box.
3. Remove the two striker screws and remove the latch striker.
INSTALLATION
WARNING.
2. Install the striker and install the two screws.
3. Loosen the screws to adjust if necessary.
INTERIOR
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BASE - FLOOR CONSOLE
REMOVAL
Fig. 341: Floor Console Shift Bezel

1. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, pry the shift bezel out of the floor console.
2. If equipped, remove electrical connectors attached to shift bezel.
Fig. 342: Console Lid, End Cap & Electrical Connectors

3. Open console lid (1).

4. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, release the fasteners at the four locations around the floor
console end cap (2).
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5. Disconnect electrical connectors (3) from end cap (2).

6. Remove end cap (2).

7. Remove ash cup (3) from console (1).

8. Remove bin (4) from console (1).
9. Remove two screws (2) from front of console (1).
10. Remove two screws (5) from rear of console (1) located inside the console bin.
11. Lift console (1) at back and remove.
INSTALLATION

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1. Install the console (1) into the vehicle.

2. Install the two screws (5) to the rear of the console (1), located inside the console bin.
3. Install the two screws (2) in the front of console (1).
4. Install the bin (4) to the console (1).
5. Install the ash cup (3) to the console (1).

6. Connect the electrical connectors (3) to the end cap (2).

7. Align the end cap (2) to the console, use hand pressure to seat the clips.

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8. If equipped, connect electrical connectors attached to shift bezel.

9. Align and use hand pressure to install the shift bezel into the floor console.
BEZEL - CONSOLE SHIFT
REMOVAL
1. If equipped with a manual transmission, using a slide-hammer, snap out the shift knob from the lever.

2. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, pry the shift bezel out of the floor console. If equipped with a
manual transmission, the lever boot will come off with the bezel.
3. If equipped, remove electrical connectors attached to shift bezel.
INSTALLATION
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1. If equipped, connect electrical connectors attached to shift bezel.

2. Align and use hand pressure to install the shift bezel into the floor console.
3. If equipped with a manual transmission, snap in the shift knob on the shift lever.
CARPET - FLOOR
REMOVAL
CARPET - FLOOR
Front Carpet
Fig. 349: Front Carpet

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1. Remove front seats, see REMOVAL.

2. Remove the floor console, see REMOVAL.
3. Remove the rear seats, see REMOVAL.
4. Remove the cowl trim panels, see REMOVAL.
5. Remove the B-pillar lower trim, see REMOVAL.
6. Remove all electrical harnesses from the carpet.
7. Remove the carpet from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
CARPET - FLOOR
Fig. 350: Front Carpet

1. Install the carpet to the vehicle.

2. Route all the electrical harness pigtails into the carpet at the varies locations.
3. Install the B-pillar lower trim, see INSTALLATION.
4. Install the cowl trim panels, see INSTALLATION.
5. Install the rear seats, see INSTALLATION.
6. Install the floor console, see INSTALLATION.
7. Install the front seats, see INSTALLATION.
COVER - B PILLAR LOWER
REMOVAL
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Fig. 351: Lower B Pillar Cover

1. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, pry up on the trim panel (2), releasing the retaining clips from
the body (4).
2. Remove the trim panel (2) from the B-pillar (1).
3. Remove the trim panel (2) by sliding the panel forward releasing the panel from the scuff clips in the
body (3).
INSTALLATION
Fig. 352: Lower B Pillar Cover

1. Align and install the trim panel clips (3) rearward and into quarter trim panel.
2. Push the trim panel (2) down into the body (4) using hand pressure until all clips are seated.
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3. Align and install the trim panel (2) to the body slots (1) on the B-pillar. Snap into place using hand
pressure.
COVER - B PILLAR UPPER
REMOVAL
Fig. 353: Upper B-Pillar Trim

1. Remove the seat belt bolt (3).

2. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, pry out the screw cover from the top of the trim panel (2),
remove the screw.
3. Remove the trim (2) by sliding up and out of the B-pillar lower trim.
4. Remove the seatbelt webbing from the B-pillar upper trim (2).
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 354: Upper B-Pillar Trim

1. Feed the seatbelt webbing through the B-pillar trim (2). Slide the belt adjuster to top position.
2. Install the trim (2) by sliding down and into the B-pillar lower trim.
3. Align the 4-way locator and seat the B-pillar trim (2) to the body.
4. Install the screw and screw cover.
5. Install the seat belt bolt (3) and tighten to 44.5 N.m (33 ft. lbs.).
COVER - C PILLAR
REMOVAL
COVER - C PILLAR
Fig. 355: C-Pillar Cover

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1. Remove the seat belt bolt (3).

2. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, pry out the screw cover from the top of the trim panel (2),
remove the screw.
3. Remove the trim (2) by sliding up and out of the quarter trim molding.
4. Remove the seatbelt webbing from the C-pillar trim (2).
INSTALLATION
COVER - C PILLAR
Fig. 356: C-Pillar Cover

1. Feed the seatbelt webbing through the C-pillar trim (2).

2. Install the trim (2) by sliding down and into the quarter trim molding.
3. Align the 4-way locator and seat the C-pillar trim (2) to the body.
4. Install the screw and screw cover.
5. Install the seat belt bolt (3) and tighten to 62 N.m (46 ft. lbs.).
CAP - FLOOR CONSOLE END
REMOVAL
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1. Open console lid (1).

2. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, release the fasteners at the four locations around the floor
console end cap (2).
3. Disconnect electrical connectors (3) from end cap (2).
4. Remove end cap (2).
INSTALLATION

1. Connect the electrical connectors (3) to the end cap (2).
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2. Align the end cap (2) to the console, use hand pressure to seat the clips.
FLOOR - LOAD
REMOVAL
FLOOR - LOAD
Fig. 359: Load Floor Panel, Load Floor & Rear Seat Bracket
1. Position the rear seats in the forward position.

2. Remove the load floor panel (1) from the load floor (2) and the rear seat bracket (3).
Fig. 360: Load Floor

3. Remove the nuts (2) from the load floor (1).

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4. Lift the rear of the floor panel (1) up and rearward to release from the body hooks (4).
5. Remove the load floor (1) from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
FLOOR - LOAD
Fig. 361: Load Floor

1. Install the load floor (1) to the vehicle.

2. Lift the rear of the floor panel (1) up and forward to catch the hooks (4).
3. Lower the load floor (1) onto the studs (3).
4. Install the nuts (2) to the load floor (1) and tighten the nuts to 28 N.m (20.5 ft. lbs.).
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5. Install the load floor panel (1) to the load floor (2) and the rear seat bracket (3). Use hand pressure to seat
the clips.
6. Return the rear seats in the upright position.
HANDLE - ASSIST
REMOVAL
HANDLE - ASSIST
Fig. 363: Handle Assist

1. Using a small pry tool or equivalent, release the assist handle by prying open the covers (1) at either end.
2. Remove the screws (2) from the assist handle.
INSTALLATION
HANDLE - ASSIST
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Fig. 364: Handle Assist

NOTE: Inspect and replace the screw retaining clips if damaged.
1. Position the assist handle to the headliner and install the screws (2).
2. Close the covers (1) on either end of the assist handle.
HEADLINER
REMOVAL
HEADLINER
Fig. 365: Harness Clip, D-Pillar Body & Body Harness Connectors

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2. If equipped, remove the sunroof opening trim ring.

3. Remove the quarter trim, see REMOVAL.
4. Remove the upper B-pillar trim, see REMOVAL.
5. Remove the A-pillar trim, see REMOVAL.
6. If equipped, remove the overhead console, refer to REMOVAL .
7. Remove the sun visor support, see REMOVAL.
8. Remove the visors, see REMOVAL.
9. Remove the assist handles, see REMOVAL.
10. Disconnect the body harness connectors (3).
11. Remove the harness clip (1) from the D-pillar body (2).
Fig. 366: Mirror Electrical Connector

12. If equipped, disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the mirror (2).
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Fig. 367: Dual Lock Areas, Sunroof, Spacer Foam Blocker, Headliner & Sunroof Motor Jumper
13. Disconnect the sunroof motor jumper (5).

14. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, separate the duel lock fasteners (1) of the headliner (4) to
remove the headliner from the sunroof (2).
Fig. 368: Lift Gate Washer Hose

15. Cut the lift gate washer hose (1) at the A-pillar.
Fig. 369: DVD Electrical Connector

16. Remove the harness clip (2) from the D-pillar body (1).
17. Disconnect the DVD electrical connectors (3).
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Fig. 370: Satellite Radio Body Antenna Connector, Power Connector & Radio Body Antenna
Connector
18. If equipped, disconnect the satellite radio body antenna connector (1).
19. Disconnect the power connector (2).
20. Disconnect the radio body antenna connector (3).
Fig. 371: Radio/Satellite Connections L/F

21. Disconnect the radio and/or satellite electrical connectors along the left A-pillar.
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Fig. 372: Headliner Rear Connections

22. Remove the Center High Mount Stop Lamp (CHMSL) and disconnect the lift gate washer hose (4), refer
to REMOVAL .
23. Disconnect the electrical connector for the lift gate harness (1).
24. Remove the clip (3) from the header roof (2).
Fig. 373: Headliner & Roof

CAUTION: It is necessary to fold the corner and the side up between the C and D
pillar area of the headliner to remove from the vehicle. The corner
must be folded up and not down to avoid damaging the headliner.
25. Fold the rear seat in the down position and remove the headliner (2) from the roof (1).
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INSTALLATION
HEADLINER
Fig. 374: Headliner & Roof

CAUTION: It is necessary to fold the corner and the side up between the C and D
pillar area of the headliner to remove from the vehicle. The corner must be
folded up and not down to avoid damaging the headliner.
1. Install the headliner (2) to the roof (1).
Fig. 375: Headliner Rear Connections

2. Connect the lift gate washer drain hose (4) to the Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) and install
to the lift gate, refer to INSTALLATION .
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3. Connect the electrical connector for the lift gate harness (1).
4. Install the clip (3) to the header roof (2).
Fig. 376: Radio/Satellite Connections L/F

5. Connect the radio and/or satellite electrical connectors along the left A-pillar.
Fig. 377: Satellite Radio Body Antenna Connector, Power Connector & Radio Body Antenna
Connector
6. Connect the satellite radio body antenna connector (1).

7. Connect the power connector (2).
8. Connect the radio body antenna connector (3).
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Fig. 378: DVD Electrical Connector

9. Attach the harness clip (2) to the D-pillar body (1).

10. Connect the DVD electrical connectors (3).
Fig. 379: Lift Gate Washer Hose

NOTE: Install a union where the lift gate washer hose was cut during removal.
11. Connect the lift gate washer hoses (1) with a union at the A-pillar.
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Fig. 380: Dual Lock Areas, Sunroof, Spacer Foam Blocker, Headliner & Sunroof Motor Jumper
12. Connect the sunroof motor jumper (5).

13. Remove the tape backing from the spacer foam blocker (3), use hand pressure on the foam blocker to
stick the headliner and the sunroof together.
14. Use hand pressure at the dual lock areas (1) of the headliner (4) to make sure the headliner sticks to the
sunroof (2).
Fig. 381: Mirror Electrical Connector

15. Connect the electrical connector (1) for the mirror (2).
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Fig. 382: Harness Clip, D-Pillar Body & Body Harness Connectors
16. Connect the body harness connectors (3).

17. Attach the harness clip (1) to the D-pillar body (2).
18. Install the assist handles, see INSTALLATION.
19. Install the visors, see INSTALLATION.
20. Install the visor supports, see INSTALLATION.
21. Install the overhead console, refer to INSTALLATION .
22. Install the A-pillar trim and grab handles, see INSTALLATION.
23. Install the upper B-pillar trim, see INSTALLATION.
24. Install the quarter trim panels, see INSTALLATION.
25. Install the sunroof opening trim ring, if equipped.
LATCH - ARMREST LID
REMOVAL
LATCH - ARMREST LID
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Fig. 383: Armrest Lid Latch

NOTE: Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark location of lid latch (2) on the console
lid (3) for installation alignment.
1. Remove the two screws (1) attaching the console lid latch (2) to the console lid (3).
2. Remove the lid latch (2) from the console lid (3).
INSTALLATION
LATCH - ARMREST LID
Fig. 384: Armrest Lid Latch

NOTE: Align the lid latch (2) with the reference marks made during removal.
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1. Install the two screws (1) attaching the console lid latch (2) to the console lid (3).
2. Check the adjustment of the lid latch (2) and adjust as necessary by loosening the two screws (1) and
moving the lid latch (2) right or left as needed until the console lid (3) closes properly.
LID - FLOOR CONSOLE
REMOVAL
LID - FLOOR CONSOLE
Fig. 385: Screws, Console Lid, Hinge & Console

1. Remove the two screws (1) attaching the console lid (2) to the hinge (3).
2. Remove the console lid (2) from the hinge (3).
3. Remove the two screws (5) attaching the hinge (3) to the console (4).
4. Remove the hinge (3) from the console (4).
INSTALLATION
LID - FLOOR CONSOLE
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Fig. 386: Screws, Console Lid, Hinge & Console

1. Install the hinge (3) to the console (4).

2. Install the two screws (5) attaching hinge (3) to the console (4).
3. Install the console lid (2) to the hinge (3).
4. Install the two screws (1) attaching the console lid (2) to the hinge (3).
MIRROR - REAR VIEW
REMOVAL
MIRROR - REAR VIEW
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Fig. 387: Removing/Installing Rear View Mirror

1 - CONNECTOR
2 - SCREW
3 - REAR VIEW MIRROR
4 - SUPPORT BUTTON
5 - WINDSHIELD
1. If equipped, disconnect mirror harness connector.

2. Loosen the mirror base setscrew.
3. Slide the mirror base upward and off the bracket.
INSTALLATION
MIRROR - REAR VIEW
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Fig. 388: Removing/Installing Rear View Mirror

1 - CONNECTOR
2 - SCREW
3 - REAR VIEW MIRROR
4 - SUPPORT BUTTON
5 - WINDSHIELD
1. Position the mirror base at the bracket and slide it downward onto the support bracket.
2. Tighten the setscrew 1 N.m (15 in. lbs.) torque.
3. If equipped, connect mirror harness connector.
REAR VIEW MIRROR - SUPPORT BRACKET
1. Mark the position for the mirror bracket on the outside of the windshield glass with a wax pencil.
2. Clean the bracket contact area on the glass. Use a mild powdered cleanser on a cloth saturated with
isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Finally, clean the glass with a paper towel dampened with alcohol.
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3. Sand the surface on the support bracket with fine grit-sandpaper. Wipe the bracket surface clean with a
paper towel.
4. Apply accelerator to the surface on the bracket according to the following instructions:
 Crush the vial to saturate the felt applicator.
 Remove the paper sleeve.
 Apply accelerator to the contact surface on the bracket.
 Allow the accelerator to dry for five minutes.
 Do not touch the bracket contact surface after the accelerator has been applied.
5. Apply adhesive accelerator to the bracket contact surface on the windshield glass. Allow the accelerator
to dry for one minute. Do not touch the glass contact surface after the accelerator has been applied.
6. Install the bracket according to the following instructions:
 Apply one drop of adhesive at the center of the bracket contact-surface on the windshield glass.
 Apply an even coat of adhesive to the contact surface on the bracket.
 Align the bracket with the marked position on the windshield glass.
 Press and hold the bracket in place for at least one minute.
NOTE: Verify that the mirror support bracket is correctly aligned, because the
adhesive will cure rapidly.
7. Allow the adhesive to cure for 8-10 minutes. Remove any excess adhesive with an alcohol-dampened
cloth.
8. Allow the adhesive to cure for an additional 8-10 minutes before installing the mirror.
MOLDING - A PILLAR
REMOVAL
MOLDING - A PILLAR
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1. Using a small pry tool or equivalent, lift the A-pillar trim molding (3) from the A-pillar slots (2) releasing
the clips on the molding.
NOTE: The top tethered clip has a locking tab that needs to be lifted in order for
clip to slide out of the trim attachment point.
2. Remove the top clip from the trim molding.
INSTALLATION
MOLDING - A PILLAR

1. Align the A-pillar trim tab on the molding (3) to the top cover slot of the instrument panel (1).
2. Install the top clip on the trim molding.
3. Align the two clips on the molding to the slots (2) on the A-pillar. Snap the A-pillar trim molding (3) into
place using hand pressure.
MOLDING - HEADLINER
REMOVAL
MOLDING - HEADLINER
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Fig. 391: Headliner Molding

1. Open the lift gate.
NOTE: Align second clip from Right (Cross Car Locator) to its slot first. This
helps line up the rest of clips.
2. Pull down at the center of the headliner molding (3) only enough to allow the tab (2) to be released from
the quarter trim molding.
3. Carefully pull down to remove the remaining clips (4) attaching the molding to the body then move the
molding to the left to released the tab from the quarter trim molding.
INSTALLATION
MOLDING - HEADLINER

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1. Install the headliner molding (3) to the body by sliding the tab (1) on the right side into the quarter trim
molding.
2. Pull down at the center of the headliner molding (3) only enough to allow the tab (2) to be slide into the
other side of the quarter trim molding.
3. Using hand pressure snap the remaining clips (4) into place.
4. Close the lift gate.
PANEL - COWL SIDE
REMOVAL
PANEL - COWL SIDE

1. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the cowl trim cover (1) by pulling it away from the A-
pillar and releasing the clip (2), continue lifting up the cowl trim panel (1) to release the clips (3) from the
body.
INSTALLATION
PANEL - COWL SIDE
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1. Align and install the cowl trim cover (1) by sliding the rear tabs of the cowl trim cover under the B-pillar
trim.
CAUTION: When installing the cowl trim cover make sure not to damage the
body plugs around the sill area. If damage occurs to the body plugs
replace with new plugs. Failure to replace a damaged body plug will
result in a water leak to the floor area of the vehicle.
2. Using hand pressure install the clips (3) into the body and the A-pillar (2).
PANEL - LOAD FLOOR
REMOVAL
PANEL - LOAD FLOOR
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1. Position the rear seats in the forward position.

INSTALLATION
PANEL - LOAD FLOOR
the clips.
PANEL - QUARTER TRIM

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REMOVAL
Fig. 397: Quarter Trim Panel

1. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the rear door scuff plate, see REMOVAL.
2. Fold down the rear seat.
3. Remove the C-pillar cover, see REMOVAL.
4. Remove the screws and the cargo tie downs.
5. Remove the quarter trim panel (1) by carefully pulling at the clip locations (3).
Fig. 398: Quarter Trim Panel Electrical Connector

6. If replacing the left side quarter trim panel disconnect the 12v power supply electrical connector (2) from
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the socket (1).
INSTALLATION
Fig. 399: Quarter Trim Panel Electrical Connector

1. If installing the left side quarter trim panel connect the 12v power supply electrical connector (2) from the
socket (1).
Fig. 400: Quarter Trim Panel

2. Install the quarter trim panel (1) to the inside of the vehicle, carefully align and install the bottom of the
quarter trim panel slots into the load floor first. Then continue to seat the remaining clips on the panel,
working from the bottom up. Use hand pressure to seat the clips (3).
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3. Install the cargo tie downs and tighten the screw.

4. Install the rear door scuff plate, see INSTALLATION.
5. Install the C-pillar cover, see INSTALLATION.
6. Return the rear seat to the up position.
PLATE - SCUFF
REMOVAL
PLATE - SCUFF
Fig. 401: Rear Door Scuff Plate


2. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, release the retaining clips and remove the scuff plate (1) from
the body (2).
INSTALLATION
PLATE - SCUFF
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1. Align the trim clips and use hand pressure to install the scuff plate (1) to the body (2).
SUPPORT - SUN VISOR
REMOVAL
SUPPORT - SUN VISOR
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Fig. 403: Removing/Installing Sun Visor Support

1. Disengage the sun visor (1) from the sun visor support (2).
2. Remove the screw that secures the support to the roof panel and remove the support from the headliner
(3).
INSTALLATION
SUPPORT - SUN VISOR
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Fig. 404: Removing/Installing Sun Visor Support

1. Position the sun visor support (2) on the headliner (3) and install the screw that secures the support to the
roof panel.
2. Engage the sun visor (1) and sun visor support.
VISOR - SUN
REMOVAL
VISOR - SUN
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Fig. 405: Removing/Installing Sun Visor

1. Remove the two screws and remove the sun visor (2) from the headliner/roof assembly (1).
2. If equipped, disconnect the illuminated vanity mirror wire harness connector.
INSTALLATION
VISOR - SUN
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Fig. 406: Removing/Installing Sun Visor

1. If equipped, connect the illuminated vanity mirror wire harness connector.

2. Position the sun visor (2) to the headliner/roof (1) and install the screws. Tighten the screws to 2 N.m (20
in. lbs.).
LIFT GATE
BUMPER - LIFTGATE
REMOVAL
BUMPER - LIFTGATE
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Fig. 407: Lift Gate Bumper


2. Remove the screws (2) and bumper (1) from the body.
INSTALLATION
BUMPER - LIFTGATE
Fig. 408: Lift Gate Bumper

NOTE: Make sure the bumper is properly oriented with printed arrows pointing
inboard.
1. Install the bumper (1) and screws (2) to the body and tighten to 12 N.m (106 in. lbs.).
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HANDLE - EXTERIOR
REMOVAL
HANDLE - EXTERIOR
Fig. 409: Liftgate Trim Panel

1. Remove two bolts (2) from the lower trim panel (3).
2. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, release the fasteners at all of the locations around the trim panel
(3).
3. Lift the trim panel (3) from the lift gate (1).
Fig. 410: Latch Cable

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4. Disconnect the latch cable (1) from the lift gate handle (2).
Fig. 411: Exterior Lift Gate Handle

5. Remove the two nuts (4).

6. Disconnect the electrical connector (2).
7. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the exterior lift gate handle (1) from the lift gate (3).
INSTALLATION
HANDLE - EXTERIOR
Fig. 412: Exterior Lift Gate Handle

1. Install the exterior lift gate handle (1) to the lift gate (3).
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2. Install the two nuts (4) and tighten to 8 N.m (6 ft. lbs.).
3. Connect the electrical connector (2).
Fig. 413: Latch Cable

4. Connect the latch cable (1) to the lift gate handle (2).

5. Align and install the trim panel (3) to the left gate (1), use hand pressure to seat all of the fasteners around
the trim panel (3).
6. Install the two bolts (2) to the lower trim panel (3) and tighten to and tighten to 7 N.m (65 in. lbs.).
HINGE - LIFTGATE
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REMOVAL
HINGE - LIFTGATE


Fig. 416: Lift Gate Hinge

4. Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the position of the hinges (1) to aid with installation.
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CAUTION: Support the lift gate while the hinge is removed.
5. Place a block under the lift gate and remove the nuts (3) from the hinge (1) located on the body.
6. Remove the bolts (4) from the hinge (1) located on the body.
7. Remove the bolts (2) from the hinge (1) at the lift gate.
8. Remove the hinge (1) from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
HINGE - LIFTGATE
Fig. 417: Lift Gate Hinge

1. Apply body sealer on the hinge to body mating surface. Align hinges with the installation reference marks
made previously.
2. Remove the block under the lift gate and install the hinge (1) to the vehicle.
3. Install the bolts (4) to the hinge (1) at the body location and tighten bolts to 28.5 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the nuts (3) to the hinge (1) at the body location and tighten nuts to 28.5 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the bolts (2) to the hinge (1) at the lift gate location and tighten bolts to 28.5 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
6. Adjust as necessary, see ADJUSTMENTS.
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molding.
LATCH - LIFTGATE
REMOVAL
LATCH - LIFTGATE

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(3).
Fig. 420: Lift Gate Latch

4. Remove the three bolts (4) from the lift gate latch (3).
5. Disconnect the electrical connectors (5).
6. Disconnect the cable (2) from the latch (3).
7. Remove the lift gate latch (3) from the lift gate (1).
INSTALLATION
LATCH - LIFTGATE
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Fig. 421: Lift Gate Latch

1. Install the latch (3) to the lift gate (1).

2. Install the three bolts (4) to the lift gate latch (3) and tighten the bolts to 11 N.m (95 in. lbs.).
3. Connect the cable (2) to the latch (3).
4. Connect the electrical connectors (5).

5. Align and install the trim panel (3) to the lift gate (1), use hand pressure to seat all of the fasteners around
the trim panel (3).
6. Install the two bolts (2) to the lower trim panel (3) and tighten to 7 N.m (65 in. lbs.).
LATCH - ACCESS PANEL
DESCRIPTION
This panel provides access to the lift gate latch. If power is interrupted to the latch, then the lift gate can be
opened manually by removing the access panel and pushing the latch release lever down.
REMOVAL
NOTE: The latch access panel is located on the lift gate trim panel near the latch
mechanism.
1. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the access panel.

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INSTALLATION
1. Position and install the latch access panel to the lift gate trim panel.
LIFTGATE
REMOVAL
LIFTGATE


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(3).
7. Disconnect the lift gate harness connector, remove the grommet and electrical harness.
Fig. 425: Lift Gate Support Cylinder & Lift Gate Support Tool
8. Support the lift gate with a lift gate support tool (1).
9. Remove the support cylinders (2) from the lift gate and body.
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Fig. 426: Lift Gate/Hinge

10. Remove the center high mounted stop lamp, refer to REMOVAL .
11. Disconnect all electrical connectors and remove electrical harness from the lift gate.
CAUTION: With assistance support the lift gate while the hinges are being
removed.
12. Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the position of the hinges (1) to aid with installation.
13. Remove nuts (2) from the hinges (1) located on the body.
WARNING: Make sure assistants are prepared when removing the bolts from the
hinges. When the bolts are removed the lift gate is no longer
attached to the vehicle and can fall.
14. Remove the bolts (3) from the hinges (1) located on the body.
15. Remove the lift gate (4) from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
LIFTGATE
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NOTE: With assistance, support the lift gate while the hinges are being installed.
1. With assistance, install the lift gate (4) to the vehicle.

2. Apply body sealer on the hinge to body mating surface. Align hinges with installation reference marks
made previously.
3. Install the bolts (3) to the hinges (1) at the body location and tighten bolts to 28.5 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the nuts (2) to the hinges (1) at the body location and tighten nuts to 28.5 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: With assistance, support the lift gate while the hinges are being
removed.
5. Install electrical harness to the lift gate and connect all electrical connections.
NOTE: Use a soapy water solution or equivalent to lubricate the grommet.
6. Install the electrical harness, grommet and connector to the vehicle.

7. Install the center high mounted stop lamp, refer to INSTALLATION .
8. Check and adjust lift gate as necessary, see ADJUSTMENTS.
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9. Install the support cylinders (2) to the lift gate and body.

10. Align and install the trim panel (3) to the left gate (1), use hand pressure to seat all of the fasteners around
the trim panel (3).
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molding.
ADJUSTMENTS
LIFTGATE
In/out

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NOTE: The position of the lift gate can be adjusted upward or downward by the use of
slots in the hinge. An inward or outward adjustment is achieved by use of slots
in the body. If an inward or outward adjustment is needed, use a body sealer on
the hinge to body mating surface.
1. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the headliner molding.

2. For the upper lift gate adjustments, loosen the hinge nuts (2) and bolts (3) but do not remove. Adjust to
specifications, see SPECIFICATIONS.
3. Apply body sealer on the hinge to body mating surface.
4. Tighten the hinge bolts to 28.5 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
5. Tighten the hinge nuts to 28.5 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 432: Lift Gate Latch Striker

6. Remove the rear door scuff plate.

7. For the lower lift gate adjustments, loosen the striker screws (2) and adjust to specifications, see
SPECIFICATIONS.
8. Tighten the striker screws to 28 N.m (20.5 ft. lbs.).
9. Install the rear door scuff plate.
10. Position the headliner molding and seat fully.
Up/Down and Left/Right
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1. Loosen the hinge to lift gate bolts (2) but do not remove.

2. Remove the rear door scuff plate.

3. Loosen the striker screws (2).
4. Adjust the lift gate up/down position to specifications, see SPECIFICATIONS.
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5. Apply body sealer on the hinge to lift gate mating surface.

6. Tighten the hinge to lift gate bolts to 28.5 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).

7. Confirm the lower lift gate in/out position and tighten the striker screws to 28 N.m (20.5 ft. lbs.).
8. Install the lift gate trim scuff plate and install the screws.
PANEL - LIFTGATE TRIM
REMOVAL
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(3).
INSTALLATION

the trim panel (3).
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STRIKER - LIFTGATE
REMOVAL
STRIKER - LIFTGATE


2. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, release the retaining clips and remove the scuff plate (1) from
the body (2).

3. Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark location of latch striker (1).

4. Remove the two screws (2) from the latch striker (1).
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INSTALLATION
STRIKER - LIFTGATE

1. Install the latch striker (1) to the body. Align latch striker (1) with the reference marks made previously.
2. Install the two screws (2) to the latch striker (1) and tighten the screws to 28 N.m (20.5 ft. lbs.).

3. Align the trim clips and use hand pressure to install the scuff plate (1) to the body (2).
5. Adjust the lift gate as necessary, see ADJUSTMENTS.
ADJUSTMENTS
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STRIKER - LIFTGATE
1. Loosen the striker bolts.

2. Adjust the striker up/down so that it is centered within the latch opening.
3. Adjust the striker fore/aft so the swing gate is under flush to the body -0.5 mm (+/- 1.0 mm).
4. Adjust the striker cross-car engagement to the latch by adding 2.0 mm shims as necessary.
NOTE: Make sure the striker is not twisted within the latch opening. Striker
should be parallel to the opening.
5. Tighten the striker bolts to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
SUPPORT - LIFTGATE
REMOVAL
SUPPORT - LIFTGATE
1. Raise and support the lift gate with a lift gate support tool (1).
2. Remove the support cylinder (2) from the lift gate and body.
INSTALLATION
SUPPORT - LIFTGATE
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1. Install the support cylinder (2) to the lift gate and body.
2. Remove lift gate support tool (1) and close the lift gate.
SUPPORT - BRACKET/BALL STUD
REMOVAL
Fig. 445: Bracket/Ball Stud Support

1. Raise and support the lift gate with a lift gate support tool.
2. Remove the support cylinder (5) from the support cylinder bracket (2) and body.
3. Remove the bolts (3) from the support cylinder bracket (2).
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4. Remove the bracket (2) from the lift gate (1).

5. Remove the ball stud (4) from the body.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 446: Bracket/Ball Stud Support

1. Install the ball stud (4) to the body and tighten securely.
2. Install the bracket (2) to the lift gate (1).
3. Install the bolts (3) to the support cylinder bracket (2) and tighten the bolts.
4. Install the support cylinder (5) to the support cylinder bracket (2) and body.
5. Remove the lift gate support tool.
PAINT
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - COLOR CODES
NOTE: Because of late model changes to the available paint colors. Refer to
DESCRIPTION , or see DESCRIPTION.
EXTERIOR COLORS
EXTERIOR COLOR DAIMLERCHRYSLER CODE
Flame Red Clearcoat PR4
Inferno Red Crystal Pearlcoat ARH/ARJ
Light Khaki Metallic Clearcoat AJC
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Dark Khaki Pearlcoat BJT

Deep Beryl Green Pearlcoat CGV
Atlantic Blue Pearlcoat ZBJ
Midnight Blue Pearlcoat BB8
Bright Silver Metallic Clearcoat WSB/WS2
Mineral Gray Metallic Clearcoat CDM
Black Clearcoat DX8
Stone White Clearcoat SW1
Sunburst Orange Clearcoat DV6
Electric Blue Clearcoat AB5
INTERIOR COLORS
INTERIOR COLOR DAIMLERCHRYSLER CODE
Slate Gray D5
Dark Slate Gray DV
Khaki J3
Dark Khaki J8
Khaki/Light Graystone J1
Dark Khaki/Light Khaki JJ
Dark Slate Gray/Light Slate Gray DB
PAINT CODE
DESCRIPTION
PAINT CODE
Exterior vehicle body colors are identified on the Vehicle Certification Label. Refer to DESCRIPTION . The
first digit of the paint code listed on the vehicle indicates the sequence of application, i.e.: P = primary coat, Q =
secondary coat. The color names provided in the Paint and Trim Code Description chart are the color names
used on most repair product containers. . See SPECIFICATIONS.
BASE COAT/CLEAR COAT FINISH
DESCRIPTION
BASECOAT/CLEARCOAT FINISH
The original equipment finish is a multi step process that involves cleaning, applying electro de-position (E-
coat), anti-chip primer, basecoat, and clearcoat steps.
On most vehicles a two-part paint application (basecoat/clearcoat) is used. Color paint that is applied to primer
is called basecoat. The clear coat protects the basecoat from ultraviolet light and provides a durable high-gloss
finish.
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CAUTION: Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds on painted surfaces.

Damage to finish can result.
Do not use harsh alkaline based cleaning solvents on painted surfaces.

Damage to finish or color can result.
PAINT TOUCH-UP
DESCRIPTION
PAINTED SURFACE TOUCH-UP
When a painted metal surface has been scratched or chipped, it should be touched-up as soon as possible to
avoid corrosion. For best results, use Mopar® Scratch Filler/Primer, Touch-Up Paints and Clear Topcoat. Refer
to Introduction group of this manual for Body Code Plate information.
WARNING: Use an OSHA approved respirator and safety glasses when spraying paint
or solvents in a confined area. Personal injury can result.
OPERATION
1. Scrape loose paint and corrosion from inside scratch or chip.

2. Clean affected area with Mopar® Tar/Road Oil Remover, and allow to dry.
3. Fill the inside of the scratch or chip with a coat of filler/primer. Do not overlap primer onto good surface
finish. The applicator brush should be wet enough to puddle-fill the scratch or chip without running. Do
not stroke brush applicator on body surface. Allow the filler/primer to dry hard.
4. Cover the filler/primer with color touch-up paint. Do not overlap touch-up color onto the original color
coat around the scratch or chip. Butt the new color to the original color, if possible. Do not stroke
applicator brush on body surface. Allow touch-up paint to dry hard.
5. On vehicles without clearcoat, the touch-up color can be lightly finesse sanded (1500 grit) and polished
with rubbing compound.
6. On vehicles with clearcoat, apply clear top coat to touch-up paint with the same technique as described in
step 4. Allow clear topcoat to dry hard. If desired, step 5 can be performed on clear topcoat.
WARNING: Avoid prolonged skin contact with petroleum or alcohol-based cleaning

solvents. Personal injury can result.
FINESSE SANDING/BUFFING & POLISHING
DESCRIPTION
FINESSE SANDING/BUFFING & POLISHING
CAUTION: Do not remove more than.5 mils of clearcoat finish, if equipped. Basecoat
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paint must retain clearcoat for durability.
Use a Paint Thickness Gauge #PR-ETG-2X or equivalent to determine film

thickness before and after the repair.
Minor acid etching, orange peel, or smudging in clearcoat or single-stage finishes can be reduced with light
finesse sanding, hand buffing, and polishing.If the finish has been finesse sanded in the past, it cannot be
repeated. Finesse sanding operation should be performed by a trained automotive paint technician.
SEATS
WARNING
RESTRAINT SYSTEM
unused replacement parts listed in the DaimlerChrysler Mopar® Parts
Catalog.
airbags, disable the supplemental restraint system before attempting any
occupant restraint controller diagnosis or service. The occupant restraint
controller contains a rollover sensor, which enables the system to deploy
the side curtain airbags in the event of a vehicle rollover event. If an
occupant restraint controller is accidentally rolled during service while
still connected to battery power, the side curtain airbags will deploy.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable, then wait two
minutes for the system capacitor to discharge before performing further
diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the
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WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury on vehicles equipped with airbags, before
performing any welding operations disconnect and isolate the battery
negative (ground) cable and disconnect all wire harness connectors from
the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC). Failure to take the proper
precautions could result in accidental airbag deployment and other
possible damage to the supplemental restraint system circuits and
components.
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, do not attempt to dismantle an airbag unit
or tamper with its inflator. Do not puncture, incinerate, or bring into
canister pressurized to over 17.24 kPa (2500 psi).
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury when handling a seat belt tensioner
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, replace all restraint system components
only with parts specified in the DaimlerChrysler Mopar® Parts Catalog.
Substitute parts may appear interchangeable, but internal differences may
result in inferior occupant protection.
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, the fasteners, screws, and bolts originally
used for the restraint system components must never be replaced with
any substitutes. These fasteners have special coatings and are
specifically designed for the restraint system. Any time a new fastener is
needed, replace it with the correct fasteners provided in the service
package or specified in the DaimlerChrysler Mopar® Parts Catalog.
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury when a steering column has an airbag unit
attached, never place the column on the floor or any other surface with
the steering wheel or airbag unit face down.
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SEAT - FRONT
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 447: Drivers Seat 2 Way Assembly

1 - BAG, BSR 20 - RECLINER, HANDLE ASSEMBLY

2 - CUSHION, BACK 21 - SCREW
3 - HEADREST, GUIDE WITHOUT BUTTON 22 - SCREW
4 - HEADREST, ASSEMBLY 23 - SHIELD
5 - BOLT, SEAT BELT 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) 24 - SHIELD
6 - HEADREST, GUIDE WITH LOCK AND
25 - SHIELD
BUTTON
7 - CUSHION, SEAT 26 - RIVET
8 - PRETENSIONER, ASSEMBLY 27 - WIRE, SHIELD ATTACHMENT
9 - SHIELD, ASSEMBLY 28 - HARNESS, ASSEMBLY
10 - SCREW 29 - RISER, LH OUTBOARD
11 - SHIELD 30 - NUT 27.5 N.m (20 ft. lbs.)
12 - FRAME, SEAT 31 - RISER, LH INBOARD
13 - SCREW, M10 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) 32 - COVER, SEAT
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14 - FRAME, SEAT BACK 33 - ELEMENT, HEATED SEAT

15 - PLATE, ROUTING 34 - ELEMENT, HEATED SEAT BACK
16 - PIN, PUSH 35 - COVER, SEAT BACK
17 - SCREW 36 - COVER, HEAD REST
18 - SHIELD 37 - SENSOR, SEAT TRACK POSITION
19 - SCREW, M10 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) -
Fig. 448: Drivers Seat 6 Way Assembly

1 - BAG, BSR 22 - PLATE, ROUTING

2 - CUSHION, BACK 23 - SCREW
3 - HEADREST, GUIDE WITHOUT BUTTON 24 - RIVET
4 - HEADREST, ASSEMBLY 25 - SHIELD
5 - HEADREST, GUIDE WITH LOCK 26 - SCREW
6 - BOLT, SEAT BELT 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) 27 - SHIELD
7 - CUSHION, SEAT 28 - SCREW
8 - PRETENSIONER, ASSEMBLY 29 - SHIELD, CLOSEOUT
9 - SHIELD, ASSEMBLY 30 - SHIELD, POWER SWITCH
10 - FRAME, SEAT 31 - SHIELD, POWER SEAT
11 - SCREW, M10 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) 32 - WIRE, SHIELD ATTACHMENT
12 - SHIELD 33 - HARNESS, 6 WAY POWER
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13 - SCREW 34- RISER, LH OUTBOARD

14 - RISER, LH INBOARD 35 - NUT 27.5 N.m (20 ft. lbs.)
15 - SCREW 36 - COVER, SEAT
16 - FRAME, SEAT BACK 37 - ELEMENT, HEATED SEAT BACK
17 - PIN, PUSH 38 - ELEMENT, HEATED SEAT
18 - SHIELD 39 - COVER, SEAT BACK
19 - SHIELD 40 - COVER, HEAD REST
20 - RECLINER, HANDLE ASSEMBLY 41 - SENSOR, SEAT TRACK POSITION
21 - SCREW, M10 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) -
Fig. 449: Passenger Seat Domestic Assembly

1 - BAG, BSR 26 - BOLT, SEAT BELT

2 - HEADREST, GUIDE WITHOUT BUTTON 27 - SCREW
3 - HEADREST, ASSEMBLY 28 - CABLE, RELEASE
4 - HEADREST, GUIDE WITH LOCK 29 - FRAME, SEAT
5 - SHIELD, CLOSEOUT 30 - SENSOR, SEAT TRACK POSITION
6 - SCREW 31 - HARNESS, ASSEMBLY
7 - SHIELD, ASSEMBLY 32 - GAGE, STRAIN TI
8 - SCREW 33 - NUT 27.5 N.m (20 ft. lbs.)
9 - RIVET 34 - RISER
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10 - WIRE, SHIELD ATTACHMENT 35 - RIVET

12 - SHIELD 37 - RISER
13 - SHIELD 38 - SCREW
14 - RECLINER, HANDLE ASSEMBLY 39 - BRACKET, METAL MODULE
15 - SCREW, M10 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) 40 - MODULE, OCS
16 - FRAME, SEAT BACK 41 - NUT 27.5 N.m (20 ft. lbs.)
17 - PLATE, ROUTING 42 - MODULE, ASSEMBLY HEATED
18 - SCREW 43 - CUSHION, SEAT
19 - PANEL, BACK ASSEMBLY 44 - CUSHION, BACK
20 - SHIELD 45 - ELEMENT, HEATED BACK
21 - SHIELD 46 - ELEMENT, HEATED SEAT
22 - SCREW, M10 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) 47 - COVER, SEAT
23 - SHIELD, ASSEMBLY 48 - COVER, SEAT BACK
24 - SHIELD, SIDE 49 - COVER, HEAD REST
25 - PRETENSIONER, ASSEMBLY -
Fig. 450: Passenger Seat Export Assembly

1 - BAG, BSR 21 - SCREW, M10 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.)

2 - HEADREST, GUIDE WITHOUT BUTTON 22 - SHIELD, ASSEMBLY
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3 - HEADREST, ASSEMBLY 23 - SHIELD, ASSEMBLY

4 - SHIELD, CLOSEOUT 24 - PRETENSIONER, ASSEMBLY
5 - HEADREST, GUIDE WITH LOCK 25 - BOLT, SEAT BELT 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.)
6 - SHIELD, ASSEMBLY 26 - SCREW
7 - RECLINER, HANDLE ASSEMBLY 27 - CABLE, RELEASE
8 - SCREW 28 - FRAME, SEAT
9 - RIVET 29 - HARNESS, ASSEMBLY
10 - WIRE, SHIELD ATTACHMENT 30 - RISER
12 - SHIELD 32 - RISER
13 - SCREW, M10 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) 33 - MODULE, ASSEMBLY HEATED
14 - SHIELD 34 - CUSHION, SEAT
15 - FRAME, SEAT BACK 35 - CUSHION, BACK
16 - PLATE, ROUTING 36 - ELEMENT, HEATED BACK
17 - SCREW 37 - ELEMENT, HEATED SEAT
18 - PANEL, BACK ASSEMBLY 38 - COVER, SEAT
19 - SHIELD 39 - COVER, SEAT BACK
20 - SHIELD 40 - COVER, HEAD REST
REMOVAL
SEAT - FRONT
Fig. 451: Front Bolts, Seat Belt Bolts, Seat Belts, Side Shield & Electrical Connectors
WARNING: Before proceeding with the following repair procedure, review all
warnings and cautions. See WARNING.
1. Remove the head rests to ease with seat removal.

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2. Remove the side shield (4) to expose the seat belt bolts.
3. Position the recliner lever up and remove the seat belt bolts (2) and seat belts (3), refer to REMOVAL .
4. Slide the seats back and remove the front bolts (1).
5. Disconnect the electrical connectors (5).
Fig. 452: Rear Nuts And Bolts

6. Slide the seats to forward position and remove the rear nuts (1) and bolts (2).
7. Remove the seats from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
SEAT - FRONT
Fig. 453: Front Bolts, Seat Belt Bolts, Seat Belts, Side Shield & Electrical Connectors
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NOTE: Start all seat fasteners first before tightening to specifications.
1. Install the seats to the vehicle.

2. Slide the seats to the rearward position, connect the electrical connectors (5) and install the bolts (1).
3. Tighten the inboard bolts first then tighten the outboard bolts (1) to 62 N.m (46 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the seat belts (3) and bolts (2), refer to INSTALLATION .
Fig. 454: Rear Nuts And Bolts

5. Tighten the rear nuts (1) to 62 N.m (46 ft. lbs.).

6. Tighten the rear bolts (2) to 62 N.m (46 ft. lbs.).
7. Install the side shield (4) to the seats.
8. Install the head rest to the seats.
9. Do not reconnect the battery negative cable at this time. The supplemental restraint system verification
test procedure should be performed following service of any supplemental restraint system component,
refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
10. Following successful completion of the supplemental restraint system verification test procedure, perform
the Occupant Classification System Verification Test using a scan tool. Refer to the appropriate
diagnostic procedures.
SEAT BACK - FRONT
REMOVAL
SEAT BACK - FRONT
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Driver Seat 6 Way
1. Remove the front seat, see REMOVAL.

2. For the drivers seat illustration, see DESCRIPTION.
3. Remove the power seat switch cover (30).
4. Remove the screws (28) and remove the side shield (27).
5. Remove the screws (26) and remove the outer shield (25).
6. Remove the inner shield (25).
7. Remove the outer shield (9).
8. Remove the screws (13) and remove the inner shield (12).
9. Remove the left side bolts (21) and the right side bolts (11).
10. Separate the seat back from the seat frame assembly.
Driver Seat 2 Way

3. Remove the screws (22) and remove the side shield (24).
4. Remove the screws (21) and remove the outer shield (25).
5. Remove the inner shield (25).
6. Remove the outer shield (9).
7. Remove the screws (10) and remove the inner shield (11).
Passenger Seat

2. For the passenger seat illustration, see DESCRIPTION.
3. Remove side shield (24).
4. Remove the screws (27) and remove the shield (23).
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5. Remove upper shield (21).

6. Remove the shield from the lower seat cushion frame.
7. Remove the screws (8) and remove the shield (12).
8. Remove the shield (13).
9. Remove the recliner handle (14).
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY
Driver Seat
1. Remove the front seat back, see REMOVAL.

3. Remove the headrest (4).
4. Remove the seat back shield (19).
5. Remove the seat back cover (39).
6. Remove the left guide (5) and right guide (3) from the seat back cushion (2).
7. Remove the seat back cushion (2) from the seat back frame (16).
Passenger Seat
1. Remove the front seat back, see REMOVAL.

3. Remove the headrest (3).
4. Remove the seat back shield (18).
5. Remove the seat back cover (48).
6. Remove the left guide (4) and right guide (2) from the seat back cushion (44).
7. Remove the seat back cushion (44) from the seat back frame (29).
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY
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Driver Seat

2. Install the seat back cushion (2) to the seat back frame (16).
3. Install the left guide (5) and right guide (3) to the seat back cushion (2).
4. Install the seat back cover (39).
5. Install the seat back shield (19).
6. Install the headrest (4).
7. Install the front seat back, see INSTALLATION.
Passenger Seat

2. Install the seat back cushion (44) to the seat back frame (29).
3. Install the left guide (4) and right guide (2) to the seat back cushion (44).
4. Install the seat back cover (48).
5. Install the seat back shield (18).
6. Install the headrest (3).
7. Install the front seat back, see INSTALLATION.
INSTALLATION
SEAT BACK - FRONT
Driver Seat 6 Way

2. Install the left side bolts (21) and the right side bolts (11) and tighten to 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the inner shield (12) and screws (13).
4. Install the outer shield (9).
5. Install the inner shield (25).
6. Install the outer shield (25) and screws (26).
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7. Install the side shield (27) and screws (28).

8. Install the power seat switch cover (30).
9. Install the front seat to the vehicle, see INSTALLATION.
Driver Seat 2 Way

3. Install the inner shield (11) and screws (10).
4. Install the outer shield (9).
5. Install the inner shield (25).
6. Install the outer shield (25) and screws (21).
7. Install the side shield (24) and screws (22).
Passenger Seat

3. Install the recliner handle (14).
4. Install the shield (13).
5. Install the shield (12) and screws (8).
6. Install the shield to the lower seat cushion frame.
7. Install upper shield (21).
8. Install the shield (23) and screws (27).
9. Install side shield (24).
SEAT CUSHION - FRONT
REMOVAL
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Fig. 455: Removing/Installing Seat Weight Sensor

1. Remove the passenger or drivers front seat, see REMOVAL.

2. Remove the seat weight sensors if equipped, passenger seat only, refer to REMOVAL .
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3. Disconnect the electrical connectors and remove the occupant classification module, refer to
REMOVAL .
Fig. 457: OCS Electrical Connectors

4. Remove the electrical harness connectors from the OCS mounting plate.
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Fig. 458: Heated Seat Element Electrical Connectors

5. Remove the electrical connectors for both the heated seat back and seat elements.
Fig. 459: Passenger Outer Trim Screws

6. Remove the recliner handle.

7. Remove the two screws from the side of the outer seat trim.
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Fig. 460: Rear Seat Screws

8. Remove the two screws from the rear of the outer seat trim and remove the trim panel.
9. Remove the seat position sensor.
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Fig. 461: Locating Heated Seat Module

CAUTION: The Heated Seat Module mounting tab can be damaged during
module removal and installation. Use care to properly align tab to
prevent binding that could result in tab breakage.
10. Position the right front seat to the full rearward position.
12. Disconnect the wire harness connector (4) from the heated seat module (3).
13. Unsnap the heated seat module retaining tab (2) from the seat pan (1).
14. Remove the heated seat module (3) from the vehicle.
15. Remove the three nuts and remove the left seat track.
16. Remove the three nuts and remove the right seat track.
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17. Remove the electrical harness from the seat bottom.
Fig. 462: Recliner Cable

18. Remove the recliner cable from the left and right side of the seat.
Fig. 463: Seat Frame Bolts

19. Remove the two seat frame bolts from the left and right side of the seat.
20. Separate the seat bottom and the seat back.
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY
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1. Remove the seat cushion section from the front seat assembly, see REMOVAL.
2. Remove the seat cover plastic retaining clips from the seat frame.
3. Remove the cover and cushion together from the seat frame.
4. Fold the seat cover back to expose the hog rings, cut and remove all hog rings.
5. Remove the seat cover from the seat cushion.
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY
1. Install the seat cover to the seat cushion.

2. Fold the seat cover back to access the hog ring locations and install new hog rings to the seat cushion and
cover.
3. Install the cover and cushion together to the seat frame.
4. Install the seat cover plastic retaining clips to the seat frame.
5. Install the seat cushion section to the front seat assembly, see INSTALLATION.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 464: Seat Frame Bolts

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1. Install the seat bottom to the seat back frame.

2. Install the two seat frame bolts to the left and right side of the seat and tighten to 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.)
Fig. 465: Recliner Cable

3. Install the recliner cable to the left and right side of the seat if equipped, passenger side only.
4. Install the electrical harness to the seat bottom.
5. Install the right and left seat tracks to the seat frame and tighten the nuts to 27.5 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 466: Locating Heated Seat Module

CAUTION: The Heated Seat Module mounting tab can be damaged during
module removal and installation. Use care to properly align tab to
prevent binding that could result in tab breakage.
6. Install the heated seat module (3) into the vehicle.

7. Position the retaining tab (2) with the mounting hole in the seat pan (1). Firmly apply even pressure to the
module (3) until the mounting tab is fully seated.
8. Connect the wire harness connector (4) to the heated seat module (3).
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Fig. 467: Passenger Outer Trim Screws

9. Install the seat position sensor.

10. Install the two screws to the side of the outer seat trim.
Fig. 468: Rear Seat Screws

11. Install the two screws to the rear of the outer seat trim.
12. Install the recliner handle.
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Fig. 469: Heated Seat Element Electrical Connectors

13. Install the electrical connectors for both the heated seat back and seat elements.
Fig. 470: OCS Electrical Connectors

14. Install the electrical harness connectors to the OCS mounting plate.
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15. Install the occupant classification module and connect the electrical connectors if equipped, passenger
side only, refer to INSTALLATION .
Fig. 472: Removing/Installing Seat Weight Sensor

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16. Install the seat weight sensors if equipped, passenger seat only, refer to INSTALLATION .
17. Install the passenger or drivers front seat, see INSTALLATION.
SEAT - REAR
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 473: Rear Seat Assembly

1 - COVER, BACK 40 17 - SLEEVE, ASSEMBLY SLAVE

2 - CUSHION, BACK 40 18 - COVER, HEADREST
3 - SCREW, SHIELD 3 N.m (26.5 in. lbs.) 19 - HEADREST, ASSEMBLY
4 - SHIELD, ASSEMBLY 20 - SLEEVE, ASSEMBLY MASTER
5 - LEVER, RELEASE ASSEMBLY 21 - PANEL, BACK, ASSEMBLY
6 - SCREWS, M10 X 30MM 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) 22 - CLIP, PLASTIC
7 - SCREW, M8 X 1.25 X 19 27.5 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) 23 - BUSHING, PRESS FIT
24 - SCREWS, POWER INVERTER 3 N.m (26.5
8 - RECLINER, ASSEMBLY
in. lbs.)
9 - BRACKET, FLOOR ASSEMBLY 25 - POWER INVERTER
10 - BUSHING, SPACER 26 - SCREWS 10 N.m (88.5 in. lbs.)
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27 - SCREWS, POWER INVERTER 3 N.m (26.5

11 - BRACKET, ATTACHMENT
in. lbs.)
12 - NUT, LOCK M10 X 1.5 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) 28 - LINK, ASSEMBLY
13 - SCREW, RELEASE LEVER 7 N.m (62 in. lbs.) 29 - FRAME, SEAT CUSHION
14 - NUT, LOCK M10 X 1.5 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) 30 - CUSHION, SEAT
15 - BUSHING, SPACER 31 - COVER, SEAT
16 - FRAME, BACK CUSHION -
Fig. 474: Rear Seat Cable

1 - CLIP CABLE END

2 - STUD
3 - CABLE
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Fig. 475: Rear Seat Assembly

1 - RETRACTOR, ASSEMBLY 22 - NUT, LOCK M10 X 1.5 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.)
2 - BOLT, RETRACTOR 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) 23 - SCREW 10 N.m (88.5 in. lbs.)
3 - FRAME, BACK CUSHION 24 - LINK, ASSEMBLY
4 - BEZEL, RETRACTOR 25 - CUSHION, SEAT
5 - SLEEVE, ASSEMBLY SLAVE 26 - COVER, SEAT
6 - COVER, HEADREST 27 - SCREW 10 N.m (88.5 in. lbs.)
7 - HEADREST, ASSEMBLY 28 - FRAME, SEAT CUSHION
8 - SLEEVE, ASSEMBLY MASTER 29 - BOLT, RESTRAINT 55 N.m (40.5 ft. lbs.)
9 - PANEL, ASSEMBLY BACK 30 - BRACKET, ATTACHMENT
10 - ROD, RECLINER 31 - NUTS, LOCK M10 X 1.5 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.)
11 - NUT, LOCK M10 X 1.5 47.5 N.m (35 ft.
32 - SHIELD, ASSEMBLY
lbs.)
12 - RECLINER, ASSEMBLY 33 - BUCKLE, SEAT BELT
13 - SCREW, M10 X 30MM 47.5 N.m (35 ft.
34 - BRACKET, FLOOR ASSEMBLY
lbs.)
14 - LEVER, RELEASE ASSEMBLY 35 - PIVOT, STUD 27.5 N.m (20 ft. lbs.)
15 - SCREW, RELEASE LEVER 8 N.m (71 in.
36 - SCREW 8 N.m (71 in. lbs.)
lbs.)
16 - SCREW, SHIELD 3 N.m (26.5 in. lbs.) 37 - SCREWS, M10 X 30MM 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.)
17 - SHIELD, ASSEMBLY 38 - RECLINER, ASSEMBLY
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18 - SCREW, M8 X 1.25 X 19 27.5 N.m (20 ft.

39 - SCREW, SHIELD 3 N.m (26.5 in. lbs.)
lbs.)
19 - BRACKET, FLOOR ASSEMBLY 40 - CUSHION, SEAT BACK
20 - BUSHING, SPACER 41 - COVER, SEAT BACK
21 - BRACKET, PLASTIC -
Fig. 476: Rear Seat Cable

1 - CLIP CABLE END

2 - STUD
3 - CABLE
REMOVAL
SEAT - REAR
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2. Position the rear seats so that the seats are in a flat position.
Fig. 478: Removing/Installing Seat Bracket Nuts

4. Remove the three seat bracket nuts.
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Fig. 479: Removing/Installing Bolts From Cushion Legs

5. Remove the four bolts from the cushion legs.
Fig. 480: Seat Bracket Nuts, Center Seat Belt, Seat Module Electrical Connector & Center Bracket
Bolts
NOTE: Lift the bottom cushion and prop up to access the fasteners.
6. Remove the two seat bracket nuts (1) from the seat brackets.
7. Remove the center bracket bolts (4) and the center seat belt (2).
8. Remove the electrical connector (3) from the seat module.
9. Fold down the seat backs and remove from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
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SEAT - REAR
Fig. 481: Seat Bracket Nuts, Center Seat Belt, Seat Module Electrical Connector & Center Bracket Bolts
1. Fold the seat in a flat position and install the seat assembly to the rear studs.
2. Connect the electrical connector (3) to the seat module.
3. Install the anchor bolt to the seat belt (2), and tighten to 62 N.m (46 ft. lbs.), refer to INSTALLATION .
4. Install the two seat bracket nuts (1) to the seat brackets and tighten to 62 N.m (46 ft. lbs.)
5. Install the seat bracket bolt (4) to the seat bracket and tighten to 62 N.m (46 ft. lbs.)
Fig. 482: Removing/Installing Bolts From Cushion Legs

6. Install the four seat bracket bolts to the seat brackets and tighten to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 483: Removing/Installing Seat Bracket Nuts

7. Install the three seat bracket nuts the seat brackets and tighten to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
the clips.
SEAT BACK - REAR
REMOVAL
SEAT BACK - REAR

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60/40 Seat Back - 40
Fig. 485: Removing/Installing 40/60 Seat

1. Remove the 40 and 60 seat, see REMOVAL.

2. Remove the screw and trim covering.
Fig. 486: Removing/Installing Nuts Attaching 40 60 Seat Back Frames

3. Remove the nuts (1) attaching the 40 and 60 seat back frames.
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Fig. 487: Removing/Installing Recliner Rod Nut And Recliner Rod

4. Remove the recliner rod nut (1) and recliner rod (2).
5. Remove the 40 seat back frame from the 60 seat back frame.
NOTE: Mark the position of the recliner lever prior to removal. This will make sure
that the recliner lever is in the proper position after installation.
Fig. 488: 40 Seat Floor Bracket Trim

6. Trace (1) an outline of the recliner handle. Remove screw (2) and the floor bracket trim (3) from the
hinge.
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Fig. 489: 40 Seat Recliner Handle

7. Remove the screw (2), washer (1) and recliner handle (3) from the floor bracket.
Fig. 490: 40 Seat Right Floor Bracket

8. Remove the bracket nuts (1), trim attachment bracket (2) and bracket (4) from the hinge (3).
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Fig. 491: 40 Seat Left Floor Bracket

9. Remove the left floor bracket from the seat frame.

1. Remove the 40 and 60 seat, see REMOVAL.

2. Remove the screw and trim covering.
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3. Remove the nuts (1) attaching the 40 and 60 seat back frames.

4. Remove the recliner rod nut (1) and recliner rod (2) and the spacer.
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Fig. 495: Removing/Installing Screw And Trim Covering From Hinge

6. Remove screw and trim covering from the hinge.
Fig. 496: Bracket, Trim Attachment Bracket, Bracket Nuts & Hinge
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY
60/40 Seat Back- 60
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1. Remove screw and trim covering from the hinge.
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Fig. 499: Seat Back Trim Panel & Seat Back Frame
3. Remove the seat back trim panel (1) from the seat back frame (2).
Fig. 500: Left Hinge Bolts

4. Remove the bolts (1) from the left hinge.
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Fig. 501: Right Hinge Bolts

5. Remove the bolts (1) from the right hinge.
Fig. 502: 60 Seat Back Seat Belt Trim

6. Remove the seat belt trim from the top of the seat cushion.
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Fig. 503: Depressing Tabs On Head Rest Guide And Removing From Top Of Seat Cushion
7. Depress the tabs (3) on the head rest guide (1) and remove from the top of the seat cushion (2).
8. Remove the seat belt through the cover and cushion.
9. Remove the cover and cushion from the seat back frame.
10. Position the seat cover to expose the hog rings and cut off all hog rings to separate the cover from the
cushion.
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Fig. 504: 60 Seat Back Seat Belt Bolt

11. Remove the bolt retaining the seat belt assembly from the seat back frame.
60/40 Seat Back- 40

NOTE: Mark the position of the recliner handle prior to removal. This will make sure
that the recliner handle is in the proper position after installation.
1. Trace (1) an outline of the recliner handle. Remove screw (2) and the floor bracket trim (3) from the
hinge.
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2. Remove the screw (2), washer (1) and recliner handle (3) from the floor bracket.

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4. Remove the bolts (1) from the right hinge.

5. Remove the left floor bracket from the seat frame.
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6. Remove the seat back trim panel (1) from the seat back frame (2).
7. Remove the hog ring attaching the seat back cushion to the seat frame.
8. Remove the seat cover clips from the seat back frame.
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Fig. 511: Depressing Tabs On Head Rest Guide And Removing From Top Of Seat Cushion
9. Depress the tabs (3) on the head rest guide (1) and remove from the top of the seat cushion (2).
10. Remove the cover and cushion from the seat back frame.
11. Position the seat cover to expose the hog rings and cut off all hog rings to separate the cover from the
cushion.
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY
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1. Install the seat back cover to the seat back cushion and install new hog rings.
2. Install the cover and cushion to the seat back frame, pull the seat cover tight around the cushion and seat
frame.
3. Install the head rest guides to the top of the seat cushion.
4. Install the left floor bracket to the seat frame.

5. Install the right hinge and bolts (1) to the seat back frame and tighten to 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).
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6. Install the bracket (4), trim attachment bracket (2) and bracket nuts (1) to the hinge (3) and tighten to 47.5
N.m (35 ft. lbs.).

7. Install the recliner handle (3), washer (1) and screw to the floor bracket in the position noted during
removal and tighten to 7 N.m (62 in. lbs.).
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8. Install the trim covering and screw to the floor bracket and tighten to 3 N.m (26.5 in. lbs.).
9. Install the plastic seat cover clips to the seat back frame.
10. Install the hog ring attaching the seat back cushion to the seat frame.
NOTE: Replace any damaged clips as necessary. Failure to replace any missing
or damaged clips could result in a noise complaint.
11. Install the seat back trim panel (1) to the seat back frame (2).
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Fig. 518: 60 Seat Back Seat Belt Bolt

1. Install the seat belt assembly and bolt to the seat back frame and tighten to 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).
2. Install the seat back cover to the seat back cushion and install new hog rings.
3. Feed the seat belt through the cushion and cover.
4. Install the cover and cushion to the seat back frame, pull the seat cover tight around the cushion and seat
frame.
NOTE: Replace any head rest guide's damaged during removal.
5. Install the head rest guides to the top of the seat cushion.
Fig. 519: 60 Seat Back Seat Belt Trim

6. Install the seat belt trim to the top of the seat back cushion.
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7. Install the right hinge and bolts (1) to the seat back frame and tighten to 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 521: Left Hinge Bolts

8. Install the left hinge and bolts (1) to the seat back frame and tighten to 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).
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N.m (35 ft. lbs.).

10. Install the trim covering and screw to the floor bracket and tighten to 3 N.m (26.5 in. lbs.).
11. Install the plastic seat cover clips to the seat back frame.
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12. Install the seat back trim panel (1) to the seat back frame (2).
INSTALLATION
SEAT BACK - REAR

1. Install the left floor bracket to the seat frame.
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N.m (35 ft. lbs.).

3. Install the recliner handle (3), washer (1) and screw to the floor bracket in the position noted during
removal and tighten to 7 N.m (62 in. lbs.).
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4. Install the trim covering (3) and screw (2) to the floor bracket and tighten to 3 N.m (26.5 in. lbs.).

5. Install the spacer, recliner rod (2) and recliner rod nut (1) to the position noted during removal and tighten
to 7 N.m (62 in. lbs.).
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7. Install the 40 seat back frame to the 60 seat back frames and tighten to 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).

8. Install the trim covering and screw and tighten to 3 N.m (26.5 in. lbs.).
9. Install the 40 and 60 seat, see INSTALLATION.
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N.m (35 ft. lbs.).

2. Install screw and trim covering to the hinge and tighten to 3 N.m (26.5 in. lbs.).
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3. Install the recliner rod (2), recliner rod nut (1) to the position noted during removal and tighten to 7 N.m
(62 in. lbs.).

4. Install the 40 seat back frame to the 60 seat back frames and tighten to 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).
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5. Install the trim covering and screw and tighten to 3 N.m (26.5 in. lbs.).
6. Install the 40 and 60 seat, see INSTALLATION.
SEAT CUSHION - REAR
REMOVAL
SEAT CUSHION - REAR
60/40 Split Seat - 40
Fig. 537: Removing/Installing Seat Bolt From Floor Bracket

CAUTION: Relieve the tension on the cable by positioning the seat correctly. Failure
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to relieve tension will result in damage to the cable.
1. Remove the 60/40 rear seat from the vehicle and place on a clean work bench, see REMOVAL.
2. Remove the seat bolt (1) from the floor bracket (2).
3. Disconnect the cable.
4. Remove the front bracket to the cushion bolts to separate the forward legs to the cushion.
5. Disconnect the cable housing.
Fig. 538: 40 Seat Pivot Bolt

6. Remove the seat assembly from the pivot bolt (1) on the floor bracket (2).

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CAUTION: Relieve the tension on the cable by positioning the seat correctly. Failure
to relieve tension will result in damage to the cable.
1. Remove the seat bolt (1) from the floor bracket (2) on the right side of the 40 seat.
3. Remove the 40 seat from the pivot bolt.

4. Remove the pivot bolt (1) from the floor bracket (2).
Fig. 541: 60 Seat Bolt

6. Remove the seat bolt (2) from the floor bracket (1) on the left side of the 60 seat.
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7. Remove the 60 seat from the seat back frame.
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the 40 seat cushion section from the rear seat assembly, see REMOVAL.
1. Remove the 60 seat cushion section from the rear seat assembly, see REMOVAL.
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY
60/40 Seat - 60

cover.
5. Install the 60 seat cushion section to the rear seat assembly, see INSTALLATION.
60/40 Seat - 40

cover.
5. Install the 40 seat cushion section to the rear seat assembly, see INSTALLATION.
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INSTALLATION
SEAT CUSHION - REAR
Fig. 542: 60 Seat Bolt

1. Position the 60 seat to the seat back frame.

2. Install the seat bolt (2) to the floor bracket (1) and seat frame on the left side of the 60 seat and tighten to
27.5 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).

3. Install the 60 seat pivot bolt (1) to the floor bracket (2) and seat frame and tighten to 27.5 N.m (20 ft.
lbs.).
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4. Attach the cable to the seat back frame and to the seat riser.
5. Install the 40 seat onto the pivot bolt.

6. Install the seat bolt (1) to the floor bracket (2) on the right side of the 40 seat and tighten to 27.5 N.m (20
ft. lbs.).

1. Install the seat pivot bolt (1) to the floor bracket (2) and tighten to 27.5 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
2. Install the seat onto the pivot bolt.
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3. Install the seat bolt (1) to the floor bracket (2) on the right side of the 40 seat and tighten to 27.5 N.m (20
ft. lbs.).
STATIONARY GLASS
GLASS - LIFT GATE
REMOVAL
GLASS - LIFT GATE

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(3).
Fig. 548: Disconnecting/Connecting Electrical Connector, Lift Gate Glass & Heated Glass Tab
4. Disconnect the electrical connector (1 ) from the (3 ) on the lift gate glass (2).
Fig. 549: Lift Gate Glass, Adhesive Backed Spacers & Spacers
5. Cut urethane bonding from around quarter glass (1) using a suitable sharp cold knife. A pneumatic cutting
device can be used if available.
6. Remove glass from vehicle.
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INSTALLATION
GLASS - LIFT GATE
Fig. 550: Lift Gate Glass, Adhesive Backed Spacers & Spacers
1. Clean inside of glass with Mopar® Glass Cleaner and lint-free cloth.
2. Apply PVC (vinyl) primer 25 mm (1 in.) wide around edge of glass. Wipe with clean/dry lint-free cloth.
3. Apply fence primer around edge of fence. Allow at least eighteen minutes drying time.
4. Apply a 10 mm (0.4 in.) bead of urethane around window vinyl border location.
5. Install the adhesive backed spacers (2) to the upper part of the lift gate glass (1).
6. Install the spacers (3) to the lower part of the lift gate glass (1).
7. Position lift gate glass (1) into window opening and lock clips into place.
Fig. 551: Disconnecting/Connecting Electrical Connector, Lift Gate Glass & Heated Glass Tab
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8. Connect the electrical connector (1 ) to the heated glass tab (3 ) on the lift gate glass (2).

the trim panel (3).
10. Install the two bolts (2) to the lower trim panel (3).
11. After urethane has cured, water test lift gate glass to verify repair.
GLASS - QUARTER WINDOW
REMOVAL
Fig. 553: Quarter Glass, Adhesive Backed Spacers & Spacers

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1. Remove the quarter trim panel as necessary to gain access to the glass seal from the inside, see
REMOVAL.
2. Cut urethane bonding from around quarter glass (1) using a suitable sharp cold knife. A pneumatic cutting
3. Remove glass from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 554: Quarter Glass, Adhesive Backed Spacers & Spacers

CAUTION: Open a window before installing glass. This will avoid pressurizing the
passenger compartment. If a door or swing gate flip-up glass is slammed
before urethane is cured, water leaks can result.
The quarter glass fence should be cleaned of old urethane bonding material. Support spacers should be cleaned
and properly installed onto the quarter glass.
1. Clean inside of glass with Mopar® Glass Cleaner and lint-free cloth.
2. Apply PVC (vinyl) primer 25 mm (1 in.) wide around edge of glass. Wipe with clean/dry lint-free cloth.
3. Apply fence primer around edge of fence. Allow at least eighteen minutes drying time.
4. Apply a 10 mm (0.4 in.) bead of urethane around window vinyl border location.
5. Install the adhesive backed spacers (2) to the upper part of the quarter glass (1).
6. Install the spacers (3) to the lower part of the quarter glass (1).
7. Position quarter glass (1) into window opening and lock clips into place.
8. Install the quarter trim panel if removed, see REMOVAL.
9. After urethane has cured, water test quarter glass to verify repair.
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GLASS - WINDSHIELD
WARNING
WINDSHIELD SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
WARNING: Do not operate the vehicle within 24 hours of windshield installation. It

takes at least 24 hours for urethane adhesive to cure. If it is not cured, the
windshield may not perform properly in an accident.
Urethane adhesives are applied as a system. Use glass cleaner,

glass prep solvent, glass primer, PVC (vinyl) primer and pinch weld
(fence) primer provided by the adhesive manufacturer. If not,
structural integrity could be compromised.
DaimlerChrysler does not recommend glass adhesive by brand.
Technicians should review product labels and technical data sheets,
and use only adhesives that their manufacturers warrant will restore
a vehicle to the requirements of FMVSS 212. Technicians should
also insure that primers and cleaners are compatible with the
particular adhesive used.
Be sure to refer to the urethane manufacturer's directions for curing
time specifications, and do not use adhesive after its expiration date.
Vapors that are emitted from the urethane adhesive or primer could
cause personal injury. Use them in a well-ventilated area.
Skin contact with urethane adhesive should be avoided. Personal
injury may result.
Always wear eye and hand protection when working with glass.
CAUTION: Protect all painted and trimmed surfaces from coming in contact with
urethane or primers.
Be careful not to damage painted surfaces when removing moldings or

cutting urethane around windshield.
REMOVAL
GLASS - WINDSHIELD
WARNING.
2. Remove inside rear view mirror, see REMOVAL.
3. Remove the wiper arms, refer to REMOVAL .
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4. Remove the hood seal (3).

5. Use a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, separate the cover assembly from the a-pillar.
6. Remove the four push pins (2) and remove the cowl grille (1) from the body (4).

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Fig. 557: Removing/Installing Windshield

9. Cut urethane bonding from around windshield using a suitable sharp cold knife. A pneumatic cutting
10. Remove windshield from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
GLASS - WINDSHIELD

WARNING: Review all warnings and cautions in this group before preceding with
installation.
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CAUTION: Open a window before installing windshield. This will avoid pressurizing
the passenger compartment. If a door or swing gate flip-up glass is
slammed before urethane is cured, water leaks can result.
CAUTION: Protect all painted and trimmed surfaces from coming in contact with
urethane or primers.
The windshield fence should be cleaned of old urethane bonding material. Support spacers should be cleaned
and properly installed on weld studs or repair screws at bottom of windshield opening.
1. Place replacement windshield into windshield opening. Position glass in the center of the opening against
the support spacers. Mark the glass at the support spacers with a grease pencil or masking tape and ink
pen to use as a reference for installation. Remove replacement windshield from windshield opening.
Fig. 559: Windshield Spacers

2. Position the windshield inside up on a suitable work surface with two padded, wood 10 cm by 10 cm by
50 cm (4 in. by 4 in. by 20 in.) blocks, placed parallel 75 cm (2.5 ft.) apart.
3. Clean inside of windshield with Mopar® Glass Cleaner and lint-free cloth.
4. Apply clear glass primer 25 mm (1 in.) wide around edge of windshield. Wipe with clean/dry lint-free
cloth.
5. Apply black-out primer 15 mm (.75 in.) wide on top and sides of windshield and 25 mm (1 in.) on bottom
of windshield. Allow at least three minutes drying time.
6. Position adhesive backed spacers at the edge of the windshield opening.
7. Align the dot on the upper molding to the tick mark in the center of the glass and install upper molding
onto windshield.
8. Apply a 10 mm (0.4 in.) bead of urethane around perimeter of windshield along the inside of the
moldings. Apply two beads along the bottom edge.
9. Apply fence primer around the perimeter of the windshield opening fence. Allow at least 18 minutes
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drying time.

10. With aid of a helper, position windshield over windshield opening. Align reference marks at bottom of
windshield to support spacers.
11. Slowly lower windshield glass to windshield opening fence. Guide top molding into proper position if
necessary. Push windshield inward to fence spacers at bottom and until top molding is flush to roof line.
12. Clean excess urethane from exterior with Mopar® Super Clean or equivalent.

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15. Position the cowl grille (1) and engage the clips to the bottom of the windshield.
16. Install the four push pins (2) through the cowl grille (1) and into the body (4).
17. Install the hood seal (3).
18. Install the wiper arms, refer to INSTALLATION .
19. Install inside rear view mirror, see INSTALLATION.
20. After urethane has cured, water test windshield to verify repair.
SUNROOF
DESCRIPTION
SUNROOF
WARNING: Keep fingers and other body parts out of sunroof opening at all times.
The sunroof features a power sliding glass panel and a sunshade which can be manually positioned anywhere
along its travel, rearward of glass panel front edge.
The sunroof is electrically operated from two switches located on the windshield header, rearward of the map
lamp. To operate the sunroof the ignition switch must be in either the Accessory or On/Run position. One
switch (vent) is a push button type and opens the sunroof to the vent position only. The other switch
(open/close) is a rocker type for opening and closing the sunroof. Pressing and releasing the open button once
the sunroof will express open and the wind deflector will raise. If the button is pressed a second time the
sunroof will stop in that position. Pressing and releasing the button while the sunroof is in the open position will
cause the sunroof to express close and the wind deflector will lower. If the button is pressed a second time the
sunroof will stop in that position.
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SUNROOF OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS
SWITCH INPUTS
- OPEN CLOSE VENT
Push and hold switch until
glass stops in flush closed
position, the glass will then
FULL express open position.
No action
VENT
Press the switch for less Press the switch for less
than 0.65 seconds for than 0.65 seconds for
express to full open express to full closed
VENT glass passes through flush Push and hold switch until glass
RANGE closed position. Glass will stops in full vent position.
position.
then open
Press and hold switch. Glass will
Press switch for less than
travel through flush closed to full
0.65 seconds for express to
vent. Glass will stop when switch is
full open.
FLUSH No action released or when fully vented.
Press switch for more than
Press switch for less than 0.65
0.65 seconds and glass will
seconds for express to full vent
stop when switch is released
Press and hold switch until Press and hold switch. Glass will
glass stops in flush closed travel through flush closed to full
position or anywhere in vent. Glass will stop when switch is
FULL between. released.
No action
OPEN
Press switch for less than
Press switch for less than 0.65
0.65 seconds for express to
seconds for express to full vent
flush closed
SUNROOF
Before beginning sunroof diagnostics verify that all other power accessories are in proper operating condition.
For electrical diagnostic information follow the chart "Sunroof Diagnosis Chart". Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING . Also refer to Wiring Diagrams, in this publication for circuit, splice and component descriptions.
Before beginning diagnosis for wind noise or water leaks, verify that the sunroof is in a fully closed position. A
common problem is the sunroof is left in an open position, this can be caused by releasing the control switch
before the sunroof was fully closed. The sunroof module is equipped with a water-management system. If
however, the sunroof glass is in a partial closed position, high pressure water may be forced beyond the water
management system boundaries and onto the headlining.
MECHANICAL SUNROOF DIAGNOSIS
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SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSE

Sunroof water leak. Drain tubes clogged or kinked or disconnected from the
sunroof.
Glass panel improperly adjusted.
Faulty glass panel seal.
Gurgling sound from sunroof. Low spot in drain hose routing, allowing water to stand.
Wind noise from sunroof. Front of glass panel too high or rear too low.
Wind deflector not deploying.
Glass not centered in opening.
Faulty glass panel seal.
Rattles from open sunroof while driving. Loose or broken attaching hardware.
Worn or broken mechanism.
Sunroof does not stop in the fully closed Drive motor has lost position of glass, teach procedure
position. required to reprogram drive motor. Refer to sunroof drive
motor teach procedure.
WATER DRAINAGE AND WIND NOISE DIAGNOSIS
Adequate drainage is provided by a drain trough in the sunroof housing which encircles the sliding glass panel
and leads to drain hoses. If a wet headliner or other water leak complaints are encountered, before performing
any adjustments, first ensure that the drainage system is not plugged or disconnected. Use a pint container to
pour water into the sunroof housing drain trough. If water flow is restricted, use compressed air to blow out any
material plugging the drain system. Retest system again.
To further check for a disconnected drain hose:
1. Lower headliner as necessary to gain access to sunroof housing drain tubes. See REMOVAL.
2. Repair as necessary.
3. Install headliner. See INSTALLATION.
The sliding glass panel is designed to seal water entry with a snug fit between the roof and the seal. The fit can
be checked by inserting a piece of paper between the roof and the seal. The piece of paper should have some
resistance when pulled out when the glass panel is in the closed position. The sunroof housing will drain off a
minimum amount of water. Excessive wind noise could result if the gap clearances are exceeded. The sunroof
glass panel may need to be adjusted. See ADJUSTMENTS for proper procedures.
DEFLECTOR - SUNROOF WIND
REMOVAL
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Fig. 563: Pressing Spring Lock With Small Flat Bladed Tool And Pushing Wind Deflector Reward To
Release From Car Top Opening
1. Open the sunroof glass to the full open position.

2. Press the spring lock (1) with a small flat bladed tool and push the wind deflector (2) reward to release
from the car top opening.
3. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side.
Fig. 564: Rotating Wind Deflector Up And Release From Mounting Hole In Sunroof Frame
4. Rotate the wind deflector (1) up and release from the mounting hole (2) in the sunroof frame.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 565: Rotating Wind Deflector Up And Release From Mounting Hole In Sunroof Frame
1. Position the wind deflector springs (1) into the mounting holes (2) in the sunroof frame.
2. Rotate forward and down into position.
Fig. 566: Sliding Wind Deflector And Spring Forward Under Car Top Lip And Making Sure
Spring Lock Snaps Into Place
3. Slide the wind deflector and spring (1) forward under the car top lip and make sure the spring lock snaps
into place (2) fully.
GLASS - SUNROOF
REMOVAL
GLASS - SUNROOF
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Fig. 567: Removing/Installing Sunroof Glass Panel

1 - SCREWS
2 - GLASS PANEL
3 - MODULE ASSEMBLY
1. Slide sunshade rearward to the open position.

2. Move the glass panel (2) to the closed position.
3. Remove the four glass panel screws (1).
4. Lift off glass panel and remove from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
GLASS - SUNROOF
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1 - SCREWS
2 - GLASS PANEL
3 - MODULE ASSEMBLY
1. Position glass panel (2) on to mechanism lift arm.

2. Start the four attaching screws (1).
3. Center glass in opening by running a business card around the glass.
4. Adjust glass panel. See ADJUSTMENTS.
ADJUSTMENTS
GLASS - SUNROOF
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1 - SCREWS
2 - GLASS PANEL
3 - MODULE ASSEMBLY
1. Move the sunshade rearward to the open position.

2. Move the sunroof glass panel to the fully closed position.
3. Adjust the glass one corner at a time.
 Loosen four glass screws (1).
 Lift glass assembly and align the top of the glass panel to the top of the roof panel.
 Tighten screw to 3.5 N.m (31 in. lbs.).
 Repeat steps a. and b. for each corner of the glass panel.
 When properly adjusted, the front of the glass panel is flush to 2 mm (0.78 in.) lower than the roof
surface and the rear edge of the glass panel is flush to 2 mm (0.78 in.) higher than the roof surface.
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Fig. 570: Checking Sunroof Front Height

NOTE: When properly adjusted, the front of the glass panel (3) is flush to 2 mm
(0.78 in.) lower than the roof surface (2).
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Fig. 571: Checking Sunroof Rear Height

NOTE: When properly adjusted, the rear edge of the glass panel (3) is flush to 2
mm (0.78 in.) higher than the roof surface (2).
4. Verify sunroof operation and alignment. Check fit and re-adjust as necessary.
HOSE - SUNROOF DRAIN
REMOVAL
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Fig. 572: Sunroof Assembly, Front Hose & Support Clips

1. Drop down the headliner as necessary to gain access to the drain hoses, see REMOVAL.
2. Disconnect the front hose (2) from the sunroof assembly (1).
3. Release the support clips (3) and disconnect the lower grommet and remove the hose.
Fig. 573: Sunroof Assembly, Rear Hose & Support Clips

4. Disconnect the rear hose (2) from the sunroof assembly (1) and release the support clips (3).
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Fig. 574: Support Clips, Grommet, Body & Rear Hose

5. Separate the remaining support clips (1).

6. Disconnect the grommet (2) from the body (3) and remove the rear hose as necessary.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 575: Support Clips, Grommet, Body & Rear Hose

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1. Install the rear hose (4) and connect the grommet (2) to the body (3).
2. Connect the support clips (1).
Fig. 576: Sunroof Assembly, Rear Hose & Support Clips

3. Route the hose as required and connect the remaining support clips (3).
4. Connect the hose (2) to the sunroof assembly (1).
Fig. 577: Sunroof Assembly, Front Hose & Support Clips

5. Connect the front hose lower grommet to the body.

6. Connect the front hose (2) to the sunroof assembly (1) and connect the support clips (3).
MOTOR - SUNROOF WITH CONTROL UNT
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DESCRIPTION
For motor and control unit service, refer to REMOVAL .
STANDARD PROCEDURE
REPLACEMENT DRIVE MOTOR
1. Press and hold the sunroof close switch until the sunroof glass moves into the vent position and
automatically reverses slightly and stops in the vent position.
2. Release sunroof switch.
3. Within five seconds of releasing sunroof switch, press and hold the sunroof close switch again until the
sunroof glass fully cycles and returns to the closed position.
4. Release sunroof switch. Sunroof will now operate normally.
ORIGINAL DRIVE MOTOR
1. Press and hold the sunroof close switch until the sunroof stops at the closed position.
3. Press and hold sunroof close switch once again for at least 10 seconds. After 10 seconds of pressing the
close switch the sunroof glass will automatically move into the vent position and stop.
5. Within five seconds of releasing the sunroof switch, press and hold the sunroof close switch again until
the sunroof glass fully cycles and returns to the closed position.
6. Release sunroof switch. The sunroof will now operate normally.
SEAL- SUNROOF GLASS
REMOVAL
SEAL- SUNROOF GLASS
1. Remove sunroof glass panel, see REMOVAL.

2. Place glass panel on clean work area with the top side up. Support the glass assembly from underside to
avoid bending or otherwise damaging the mounting tabs.
3. Grasp the seal and pull seal away from the glass panel. The seal is a one piece seal.
INSTALLATION
SEAL- SUNROOF GLASS
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Fig. 578: Sunroof Glass Seal

NOTE: Always position seal seam on center of the passenger side of glass panel.
1. Place seal (1) into position.

2. Seat the seal (1) into the glass channel fully. Using care working the seal around the glass (2), being
careful not to over stretch the seal while installing.
3. Install the glass panel, see INSTALLATION.
SUNROOF - MODULE/FRAME ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
Fig. 579: Disconnecting/Connecting Front Drain Tube At Sunroof

1. Move glass panel to fully closed position.

3. If equipped, remove the overhead console, refer to REMOVAL .
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4. Remove headliner, see REMOVAL.

5. Disconnect wire harness.
6. Disconnect the front drain tube (3) at the sunroof (2).
Fig. 580: Disconnecting/Connecting Rear Drain Tube At Sunroof

7. Disconnect the rear drain tube at the sunroof (1).
Fig. 581: Roof Panel, Sunroof Module Assembly, Module Bracket Bolts & Fasteners
8. Remove two module bracket bolts (3) and loosen the remaining six fasteners (5).
9. With the aid of a helper, remove fasteners (5) attaching sunroof module assembly (2) to roof panel (1).
10. Remove the glass panel.
11. Remove the sunshade, see REMOVAL.
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12. Remove the drive motor, refer to REMOVAL .

13. Remove the wire harness.
14. Remove the trough.
15. Remove the module side brackets.
16. Remove the deflector.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 582: Roof Panel, Sunroof Module Assembly, Module Bracket Bolts & Fasteners
1. Install the module brackets.

2. Install the drive motor, refer to INSTALLATION .
3. Install the sunshade, see INSTALLATION.
4. Install the trough.
5. Install the glass panel.
6. Raise rear end of sunroof module assembly (2) to the roof (1) and guide into position and start the rear
fasteners (3).
7. Raise front end of sunroof module assembly (2) to the roof (1) and guide into position, start the remaining
fasteners (3).
8. Visually line up the alignment guide holes with the guide holes in the roof of the vehicle.
9. Tighten the fasteners to 9 N.m (80 in. lbs.).
10. Tighten the nuts (4).
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Fig. 583: Disconnecting/Connecting Rear Drain Tube At Sunroof

11. Connect the rear drain tube at the sunroof (1).
Fig. 584: Disconnecting/Connecting Front Drain Tube At Sunroof

12. Connect the front drain tube (3) at the sunroof (2).
13. Install the wire harness.
15. If equipped, install the overhead console, refer to INSTALLATION .
16. Perform the sunroof motor teach procedure, refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
17. Test sunroof operation, adjust glass as necessary, see ADJUSTMENTS.
18. Install the headliner, see INSTALLATION.
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SUNSHADE - SUNROOF
REMOVAL
SUNSHADE - SUNROOF
Fig. 585: Removing/Installing Drain Channel

1. Remove the drain trough, see REMOVAL.

2. Push up the front center of the sunshade (1) to pop out the front two feet.
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Fig. 586: Removing/Installing Sunshade

3. Rotate the sunshade (2) so that the other feet (1) are removed from the guide track.
INSTALLATION
SUNSHADE - SUNROOF
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Fig. 587: Removing/Installing Sunshade

1. Verify the sunshade track is free of obstructions like the trim lace/ring.
2. Start with sunshade (2) at an angle with one foot (1) in the track.
3. Rotate the sunshade so the other rear foot is in the track as well as the 2 other feet (3) on the same side as
the first foot.
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Fig. 588: Removing/Installing Drain Channel

4. To insert the remaining two feet (2) apply force to the middle front of sunshade (3) and guide them into
the track.
5. Check that all the feet are in the right track and verify sunshade operation.
6. Install the drain trough, see INSTALLATION.
SWITCH - SUNROOF CONTROL
DESCRIPTION
Vehicles equipped with a power sunroof utilize a sunroof control switch. On this model, the sunroof control
switch is located in the overhead console, in between the two reading lamps. The switch is mounted in the
overhead console with four plastic retaining tabs, molded into the switch housing.
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This switch incorporates four selections of operation open, auto open, close and vent. The individual switches in
the sunroof control switch unit cannot be repaired. If one switch is damaged or faulty, the entire sunroof control
switch unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
With the operation of the sunroof control switch, voltage is directed to the sunroof motor, through the switch
contacts or control module. If the control switch is depressed and held depressed the voltage signal is controlled
manually through the switch contacts, so when the switch is released the sunroof stops.
Refer to the Owner's Manual for more information on the operation of the sunroof switch and system.
The following test will determine if the sunroof control switch is operating properly.
1. Remove the overhead console from the headliner, refer to REMOVAL .

2. Remove the sunroof control switch from the overhead console, see REMOVAL.
3. Using an ohmmeter, test the switch terminals for proper continuity using the table below. If any of the
terminals do not show proper continuity, replace the sunroof control switch.
SWITCH POSITION (DEPRESSED) CONTINUITY BETWEEN TERMINALS

VENT (V) 3, 4
OPEN (AUTO) 1, 4
CLOSE 2, 4
REMOVAL

2. Remove the overhead console from the headliner, refer to REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect the sunroof control switch electrical connector. Depress the connector retaining tab and pull
the connector straight out.
4. To remove the switch from the overhead console, push on the back of the switch until it comes free from
the overhead console.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the switch in the overhead console assembly. Be certain the switch is securely snapped in place.
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2. Connect the sunroof control switch electrical connector. Be certain the switch connector is securely
snapped in place.
3. Install the overhead console, refer to INSTALLATION .
TROUGH - SUNROOF
REMOVAL
TROUGH - SUNROOF
Fig. 589: Separating/Installing Trough Pins From Glass Lift Mechanisms

1. Remove the glass, see REMOVAL.

2. Separate the trough pins (3) from the glass lift mechanisms (1).
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Fig. 590: Pushing Down On Center Of Trough To Flatten It Out And Installing Remaining Trough
Guide And Guide Shoe Into Track
3. Slide trough (1) to one side and push down on the center of the trough until the guide shoe tab (3) releases
from the track (2).
4. Slide the trough in the opposite direction to release the other shoe and lift the trough out of the sunroof
opening.
INSTALLATION
TROUGH - SUNROOF
Fig. 591: Pushing Down On Center Of Trough To Flatten It Out And Installing Remaining Trough
Guide And Guide Shoe Into Track
1. Insert one of the trough guides (3) and guide shoe (2) into the track.
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2. Push down on the center of the trough (1) to flatten it out and install the remaining trough guide (3) and
guide shoe (2) into the track.
Fig. 592: Separating/Installing Trough Pins From Glass Lift Mechanisms

3. Install the trough guide pins into the glass lift mechanism (3) and seat fully.
4. Install the glass, see INSTALLATION.
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS
WEATHERSTRIP - A-PILLAR
REMOVAL
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INSTALLATION

WEATHERSTRIP - FDB - INNER
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REMOVAL


2. Rotate the outer belt molding outboard while pulling up to disengage the retention tabs.
INSTALLATION

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WEATHERSTRIP - FDB - OUTER
REMOVAL
Fig. 597: Removing Outer Belt Molding

1 - OUTER BELT MOLDING
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2 - SPECIAL TOOL #9093

3 - RETAINING TAB
4 - DOOR OUTER PANEL
1. Lower window completely.

2. Insert the outer door belt molding removal tool - 9093 between belt molding and glass at rear and then
slide tool forward approximately 14 cm (5.5 in.).
3. Push down on outer belt molding and rotate upper part of tool outward from vehicle approximately 6 - 8
cm (2.5 - 3 in.) then lift up on molding to disengage from locking tab.
4. Repeat step 2 and 3 at 28 cm (11 in.), 43 cm (17 in.), and 57 cm (22.5 in.) from rear of door.
Fig. 598: Removing/Installing Outer Belt Molding

5. Remove outer belt molding.
INSTALLATION
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1. Press the outer belt molding onto the outer door window flange starting at the rear and working forward.
2. Cycle the window to make sure the window doesn't bind on the outer belt molding.
WEATHERSTRIP - FRONT DOOR
REMOVAL
Fig. 600: Front Door Weatherstrip

1. Open the front door.

2. Remove weatherstrip from the body mount flange.
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INSTALLATION
Fig. 601: Front Door Weatherstrip

NOTE: Position the seal to the bottom of the door opening, with bulb facing outboard,
starting the installation at the center of the lower flange. Press the seal onto the
sill flange and work around the perimeter of the door opening until fully seated.
Work 1/2 the way around and then start at the other end of the seal working
back, making sure the splice joint has no gap and smoothing the seal to avoid
puckers or wrinkles. If in extreme cold temperatures preheating the
weatherstrip to 23.8°C (75°F) may be required to fully seat the weatherstrip.
1. Install the weatherstrip to the body mount flange.

2. Trim the weatherstrip if necessary, and connect the ends together along the flange.
WEATHERSTRIP - FD - MOUNTED
REMOVAL
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Fig. 602: Front Door Mounted Weatherstrip

1. Carefully remove the plastic hook style clips on the weatherstrip from the door and remove the seal from
the door.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 603: Front Door Mounted Weatherstrip

1. Position the seal correctly and install the plastic hook style clips on the weatherstrip to the door.
WEATHERSTRIP - HOOD TO COWL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 604: Cowl Weather-Strip


2. Remove the cowl weather-strip (1) by peeling the cowl seal from the cowl grille.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 605: Cowl Weather-Strip

1. Install the cowl weather-strip (1) to the cowl grille.

2. Remove the hood support rod and lower the hood.
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WEATHERSTRIP - LIFT GATE OPENING
REMOVAL
Fig. 606: Lift Gate Opening Weatherstrip


2. Remove the weatherstrip seal from the lift gate opening.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 607: Lift Gate Opening Weatherstrip

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NOTE: Seat the lift gate weatherstrip fully into all corners without stretching. If in
extreme cold temperatures preheating the weatherstrip to 23.8°C (75°F) may be
required to fully seat the weatherstrip.
1. Install the weatherstrip to the upper right and left hand corners of the lift gate opening.
2. Using hand pressure seat the seal into the upper corners then seat across the header.
3. Seat the seal down the D-pillar to the lower flange on both sides.
4. Seat the seal along the lower flange to the slice joint.
WEATHERSTRIP - RDB - INNER
REMOVAL


2. Rotate the inner belt molding outboard while pulling up to disengage the retention tabs.
INSTALLATION
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WEATHERSTRIP - RDB - OUTER
REMOVAL
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Fig. 610: Removing Outer Belt Molding

1 - OUTER BELT MOLDING

2 - SPECIAL TOOL #9093
3 - RETAINING TAB
4 - DOOR OUTER PANEL
1. Lower window completely.

2. Insert the outer door belt molding removal tool - 9093 between belt molding and glass at rear and then
slide tool forward approximately 14 cm (5.5 in.).
3. Push down on outer belt molding and rotate upper part of tool outward from vehicle approximately 6 - 8
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cm (2.5 - 3 in.) then lift up on molding to disengage from locking tab.

4. Repeat step 2 and 3 at 28 cm (11 in.), 43 cm (17 in.), and 57 cm (22.5 in.) from rear of door.

5. Remove outer belt molding.
INSTALLATION

1. Press the outer belt molding onto the outer door window flange starting at the rear and working forward.
2. Cycle the window to make sure the window doesn't bind on the outer belt molding.
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WEATHERSTRIP - REAR DOOR
REMOVAL
Fig. 613: Rear Door Weatherstrip

1. Open the rear door.

2. Remove weatherstrip from the body mount flange.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 614: Rear Door Weatherstrip

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NOTE: Position the seal to the bottom of the door opening, with bulb facing outboard,
starting the installation at the center of the lower flange. Press the seal onto the
sill flange and work around the perimeter of the door opening until fully seated.
Work 1/2 the way around and then start at the other end of the seal working
back, making sure the splice joint has no gap and smoothing the seal to avoid
puckers or wrinkles. If in extreme cold temperatures preheating the
weatherstrip to 23.8°C (75°F) may be required to fully seat the weatherstrip.
1. Install the weatherstrip to the body mount flange.

WEATHERSTRIP - RD - MOUNTED
REMOVAL
Fig. 615: Rear Door Mounted Weatherstrip

1. Carefully remove the plastic hook style clips on the weatherstrip from the door and remove the seal from
the door.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 616: Rear Door Mounted Weatherstrip

1. Position the seal correctly and install the plastic hook style clips on the weatherstrip to the door.
BODY STRUCTURE
GAP AND FLUSH
SPECIFICATIONS
GAP AND FLUSH
INDEX
DESCRIPTION FIGURE
BODY GAP AND FLUSH Fig. 617.
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Fig. 617: Gap And Flush

NOTE: All dimensions are in millimeters.
DIMENSION DESCRIPTION GAP FLUSH
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1 Headlamp to Grille 2.0 +/- 2.0 U/F -1.0 +/- 2.0

Parallel within 1.5 Parallel within 2.0
2 Grille to Hood 7.0 +/- 2.0 U/F -2.0 +/- 2.0
3 Front Door to Body Side 4.5 +/- 1.5 U/F 1.5 +/- 1.5
Except 7.0 +/- 1.5 Parallel within 1.5
@ Front A-pillar
Parallel within 1.5
4 Rear Door to Body Side @ 4.5 +/- 1.5 U/F 1.5 +/- 1.5
Roof Parallel within 1.5 Parallel within 1.5
5 Fuel Filler Door to Body Side 3.0 +/- 1.0 U/F -0.5 +/- 1.0
6 Front Door to Rear Door 4.5 +/- 1.5 0.0 +/- 1.5
7 Hood to Body Side 4.5 +/- 1.5 O/F 0.5 +/- 1.5
8 Fender to Front Door 4.5 +/- 1.5 O/F 1.0 +/-1.5
9 Fender Flare to Grille 4.0 +/- 2.0 --
Parallel within 2.0
10 Fender Flare to Front Fascia 3.0 +/- 2.0 --
Parallel within 2.0
11 Front Fascia to Grille 4.0 +/- 2.0 U/F -1.0 +/- 2.0
12 Tail Lamp to Lift Gate 4.0 +/- 2.0 --
Parallel within 2.0
13 Lift Gate to Roof 9.0 +/- 1.5 U/F -1.5 +/- 1.5
14 Hood to Fender 1.0 +/- 1.5 O/F 1.0 +/- 1.5
15 Grille to Fender 0.0 +1.0/-0.0 U/F -1.0 +/- 1.5
Parallel within 2.0
16 Rear Door to Body Side 4.5 +/- 1.5 0.0 +/- 1.5
17 Lift Gate to Body Side 4.0 +/- 1.0 U/F -2.0 +/- 1.5
18 Rear Fascia to Rear Wheel 3.0 +/- 2.0 --
Flare Parallel within 2.0
19 Rear Fascia to Body Side 0.0 +1.0/-0.0 --
20 Tail Lamp to Rear Fascia 3.0 +/- 2.0 --
21 Lift Gate to Rear Fascia Cross/Car 4.0 +/- 2.0 --
Parallel within 2.0
Up/Down 8.0 +/- 2.0
Parallel within 2.0
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OPENING DIMENSIONS
SPECIFICATIONS
OPENING DIMENSIONS
INDEX
DESCRIPTION FIGURE
ENGINE BOX Fig. 618.
FRONT DOOR OPENING Fig. 619.
LIFT GATE OPENING Fig. 620.
LIFT GATE WINDOW OPENING Fig. 621.
QUARTER WINDOW OPENING Fig. 622.
REAR DOOR OPENING Fig. 623.
WINDSHIELD OPENING Fig. 624.
Fig. 618: Engine Box

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Fig. 619: Front Door Opening

Fig. 620: Lift Gate Opening

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Fig. 621: Lift Gate Window Opening

Fig. 622: Quarter Window Opening

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Fig. 623: Rear Door Opening

Fig. 624: Windshield Opening

SEALER LOCATIONS
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SPECIFICATIONS
SEALER LOCATIONS
INDEX
DESCRIPTION FIGURE
SEALER APPLICATION METHODS Fig. 625.
A - PILLAR REINFORCEMENT TO BODY SIDE APERTURE AND PLENUM Fig. 626.
BODY SIDE APERTURE TO ROOF Fig. 627.
BODY SIDE INNER TO REAR WHEELHOUSE OUTER/INNER Fig. 628.
DASH TO FRONT FLOOR PAN Fig. 629.
FRONT FLOOR PAN AND BODY SIDE SILL AND COWL SIDE Fig. 630.
FLOOR PAN TO BODY SIDE SILL Fig. 631.
FRONT FLOOR PAN TO REAR FLOOR PAN Fig. 632.
LIFT GATE DRAIN TROUGH TO BODY SIDE APERTURE Fig. 633.
LIFT GATE DRAIN TROUGH TO TAIL LAMP OPENING Fig. 634.
LOWER DASH TO FRONT FLOOR PAN AND COWL SIDE Fig. 635.
REAR FLOOR PAN TO BODY INNER AND "D" PILLAR REINFORCEMENT Fig. 636.
REAR FLOOR PAN TO REAR WHEELHOUSE PANEL Fig. 637.
REAR WHEELHOUSE OUTER FRONT AND REAR PANEL Fig. 638.
TAIL LAMP CAN Fig. 639.
TAIL LAMP MOUNTING TO BODY SIDE APERTURE Fig. 640.
UPPER DASH TO LOWER PLENUM PANEL Fig. 641.
UPPER DASH TO PLENUM TO COWL SIDE Fig. 642.
UPPER PLENUM BAFFLE Fig. 643.
WHEELHOUSE OUTER TO BODY SIDE OUTER Fig. 644.
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Fig. 625: Application Methods

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Fig. 626: A - Pillar Reinforcement To Body Side Aperture And Plenum

Fig. 627: Body Side Aperture To Roof

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Fig. 628: Body Side Inner To Rear Wheelhouse Outer/Inner

Fig. 629: Dash To Front Floor Pan

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Fig. 630: Front Floor Pan And Body Side Sill And Cowl Side
Fig. 631: Floor Pan To Body Side Sill

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Fig. 632: Front Floor Pan To Rear Floor Pan

Fig. 633: Lift Gate Drain Trough To Body

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Fig. 634: Lift Gate Drain Trough To Tail Lamp Opening

Fig. 635: Lower Dash To Front Floor Pan And Cowl Side
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Fig. 636: Rear Floor Pan To Body Inner And D Pillar Reinforcement
Fig. 637: Rear Floor Pan To Rear Wheelhouse Panel

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Fig. 638: Rear Wheelhouse Outer Front And Rear Panel

Fig. 639: Tail Lamp Can

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Fig. 640: Tail Lamp Mounting To Body Side Aperture

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Fig. 641: Upper Dash To Lower Plenum Panel

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Fig. 642: Upper Dash To Plenum To Cowl Side

Fig. 643: Upper Plenum Baffle

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Fig. 644: Wheelhouse Outer To Body Side Outer

STRUCTURAL ADHESIVE LOCATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS
STRUCTURAL ADHESIVE LOCATIONS
INDEX
DESCRIPTION FIGURE
BODY SIDE APERTURE COMPLETE Fig. 645.
BODY IN WHITE COMPLETE Fig. 646.
BODY IN WHITE WITHOUT ROOF (1 OF 2) Fig. 647.
FRONT FLOOR/DASH/PLENUM Fig. 649.
OUTER BODY SIDE APERTURE Fig. 650.
PLENUM ASSEMBLY Fig. 651.
REAR FLOOR COMPLETE Fig. 652.
SUNROOF Fig. 653.
UNDER BODY COMPLETE (1 OF 3) Fig. 654.
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Fig. 645: Body Side Aperture Complete

Fig. 646: Body In White Complete

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Fig. 647: Body In White Without Roof (1 Of 2)


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Fig. 649: Front Floor/Dash/Plenum

Fig. 650: Outer Body Side Aperture Complete

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Fig. 651: Plenum Assembly

Fig. 652: Rear Floor Complete

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Fig. 653: Sunroof

Fig. 654: Under Body Complete (1 Of 3)

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WELD AND STRUCTURAL ADHESIVE LOCATIONS
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SPECIFICATIONS
WELD AND STRUCTURAL ADHESIVE LOCATIONS
INDEX
DESCRIPTION FIGURE
FRONT RAILS (1 OF 10) Fig. 657.
FRONT WHEELHOUSE ASSEMBLY Fig. 667.
MISCELLANEOUS BODY (1 OF 10) Fig. 668.
DASH Fig. 678.
PLENUM ASSEMBLY (1 OF 5) Fig. 679.
FRONT FLOOR (1 OF 3) Fig. 684.
FRONT FLOOR/DASH/PLENUM ASSEMBLY (1 OF 2) Fig. 687.
FRONT FLOOR/DASH/PLENUM ASSEMBLY (2 OF 2) Fig. 688.
REAR RAIL ASSEMBLY (1 OF 10) Fig. 689.
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REAR FLOOR ASSEMBLY (1 OF 3) Fig. 699.
REAR WHEELHOUSE (1 OF 2) Fig. 702.
REAR WHEELHOUSE (2 OF 2) Fig. 703.
REAR FLOOR COMPLETE (1 OF 11) Fig. 704.
UNDERBODY COMPLETE (1 OF 12) Fig. 715.
BODY SIDE APERTURE INNER (1 OF 4) Fig. 727.
BODY SIDE APERTURE OUTER (1 OF 5) Fig. 731.
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Fig. 734.
BODY SIDE APERTURE COMPLETE (1 OF 8) Fig. 736.
BODY IN WHITE COMPLETE (1 OF 4) Fig. 752.
FRONT RAIL ASSEMBLY
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Fig. 657: Front Rails (1 Of 10)


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FRONT WHEELHOUSE ASSEMBLY
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Fig. 667: Front Wheelhouse Assembly

MISCELLANEOUS BODY
Fig. 668: Miscellaneous Body (1 Of 10)

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DASH
Fig. 678: Dash

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PLENUM ASSEMBLY
Fig. 679: Plenum Assembly (1 Of 5)


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FRONT FLOOR
Fig. 684: Front Floor (1 Of 3)

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FRONT FLOOR/DASH/PLENUM ASSEMBLY
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Fig. 687: Front Floor/Dash/Plenum Assembly (1 Of 2)

Fig. 688: Front Floor/Dash/Plenum Assembly (2 Of 2)

REAR RAIL ASSEMBLY
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Fig. 689: Rear Rail Assembly (1 Of 10)

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REAR FLOOR ASSEMBLY
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Fig. 699: Rear Floor Assembly (1 Of 3)


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REAR WHEELHOUSE
Fig. 702: Rear Wheelhouse (1 Of 2)

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Fig. 703: Rear Wheelhouse (2 Of 2)

REAR FLOOR COMPLETE
Fig. 704: Rear Floor Complete (1 Of 11)

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UNDERBODY COMPLETE
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Fig. 715: Underbody Complete (1 Of 12)



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BODY SIDE APERTURE INNER
Fig. 727: BODY SIDE APERTURE INNER (1 OF 4)

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BODY SIDE APERTURE OUTER
Fig. 731: Body Side Aperture Outer (1 Of 5)

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BODY SIDE APERTURE COMPLETE
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Fig. 736: Body Side Aperture Complete (1 Of 8)


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BODY IN WHITE WITHOUT ROOF
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BODY IN WHITE COMPLETE
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Fig. 752: Body In White Complete (1 Of 4)


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2007 CLUTCH Clutch - Nitro
2007 CLUTCH
Clutch - Nitro
WARNING
CLUTCH
WARNING: DaimlerChrysler does not manufacture any vehicles that utilize asbestos
containing products. Manual clutches on older model vehicles and
aftermarket manual clutch facings may contain asbestos. Refer to
aftermarket product packaging for product information. Regardless if the
product contains asbestos or not, dust and dirt can accumulate on
manual clutch parts during normal use. Follow all recommended safety
practices prescribed by the occupational safety and health administration
(OSHA) and the environmental safety agency (EPA), for the handling and
disposal of products containing asbestos. Failure to follow these
instructions may result in personal injury

CLUTCH
Drive the vehicle at normal speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear ranges and observe clutch action. If
the clutch chatters, grabs, slips or does not release properly, remove and inspect the clutch components. If the
problem is noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may be needed as the transmission or another driveline
component may be at fault.
NOTE: Vehicles equipped with a Dual Mass Flywheel may produce a rattle when the
engine is shut off. This noise is considered normal.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch malfunctions. Oil, water or clutch fluid on the clutch disc and
pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter, slip and grab. Inspect components for oil, hydraulic fluid or
water/road splash contamination.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Clutch fluid leaks are
usually from damaged slave cylinder push rod seals. Heat buildup caused by slippage between the pressure
plate, disc and flywheel can bake the oil residue onto the components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination is dirt/water entering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing cracks. Driving
through deep water puddles can force water/road splash into the housing through such openings.
IMPROPER RELEASE OR CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT

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Clutch release or engagement problems are caused by wear or damage clutch components. A visual inspection
of the release components will usually reveal the problem part.
Release problems can result in hard shifting and noise. Look for leaks at the clutch cylinders and
interconnecting line and loose slave cylinder bolts. Also worn/loose release fork, pivot stud, clutch disc,
pressure plate or release bearing.
Engagement problems can result in slip, chatter/shudder and noisy operation. The causes may be clutch disc
contamination, wear, distortion or flywheel damage. Visually inspect to determine the actual cause of the
problem.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft. Misalignment
caused by excessive runout or warpage of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and improper clutch
release.
PRESSURE PLATE AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial (face) runout of a new disc should not exceed 0.50 mm (0.020
in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.) from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain another disc if runout is
excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab and
incomplete release or engagement. Be careful when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort the cover,
diaphragm spring, release fingers and the hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalignment
which could result in cover distortion and disc damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tightening.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08 mm
(0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the indicator on a
stud installed in place of one of the flywheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
Heat warpage
Improper machining
Incorrect bolt tightening
Improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
Foreign material on crankshaft flange
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Flywheel machining is not recommended. The flywheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour and
machining will negate this feature. Minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180 grit emery or
with surface grinding equipment. Remove only enough material to reduce scoring (approximately 0.001 - 0.003
in.). Heavy stock removal is not recommended. Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe and deeper than
0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or warpage after installation; it
can also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may cock the
flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the bolts with
Mopar® Lock And Seal or equivalent. Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can
distort the flywheel hub causing runout.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
The Diagnosis Chart describes common clutch problems, causes and correction. Conditions, causes and
corrective action are outlined in the indicated columns.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
Disc facing worn out 1. Normal wear. 1. Replace cover and disc.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips) 2. Replace cover and disc.
the clutch. Results in rapid
overheating and wear.
3. Insufficient clutch cover 3. Replace cover and disc.
diaphragm spring tension.
Clutch disc facing contaminated 1. Leak at rear main engine seal or 1. Replace appropriate seal.
with oil, grease, or clutch fluid. transmission input shaft seal.
2. Excessive amount of grease 2. Remove grease and apply the
applied to the input shaft splines.correct amount of grease.
3. Road splash, water entering 3. Replace clutch disc. Clean
housing. clutch cover and reuse if in good
condition.
4. Slave cylinder leaking. 4. Replace hydraulic clutch
linkage.
Clutch is running partially 1. Release bearing sticking or 1. Verify failure. Replace the
disengaged. binding and does not return to the release bearing and transmission
normal running position. front bearing retainer as necessary.
Flywheel below minimum 1. Improper flywheel machining. 1. Replace flywheel.
thickness specification. Flywheel has excessive taper or
excessive material removal.
Clutch disc, cover and/or 1. Rough handling. Impact bent 1. Replace disc or cover as
diaphragm spring warped or cover, spring, or disc. necessary.
distorted. 2. Improper bolt tightening 2. Tighten clutch cover using
procedure. proper procedure.
Facing on flywheel side of disc 1. Flywheel surface scored or 1. Correct surface condition if
torn, gouged, or worn. nicked. possible. Replace flywheel and
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disc as necessary.
2. Clutch disc sticking or binding 2. Lubricate splines with high
on transmission input shaft. temperature grease.
Clutch disc facing burnt. Flywheel 1. Frequent operation under high 1. Correct condition of flywheel
and cover pressure plate surfaces loads or hard acceleration and pressure plate surface.
heavily glazed. conditions. Replace clutch cover and disc.
Alert driver to problem cause.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips) 2. Correct condition of flywheel
clutch. Results in rapid wear and and pressure plate surface.
overheating of disc and cover. Replace clutch cover and disc.
Alert driver to problem cause.
Clutch disc binds on input shaft 1. Clutch disc hub splines 1. Clean, smooth, and lubricate
splines. damaged during installation. hub splines if possible. Replace
disc if necessary.
2. Input shaft splines rough, 2. Clean, smooth, and lubricate
damaged, or corroded. shaft splines if possible. Replace
input shaft if necessary.
Clutch disc rusted to flywheel 1. Clutch not used for an extended 1. Sand rusted surfaces with 180
and/or pressure plate. period of time (e.g. long term grit sanding paper. Replace clutch
vehicle storage). cover and flywheel if necessary.
Pilot bearing seized, loose, or 1. Bearing cocked during 1. Install and lubricate a new
rollers are worn. installation. bearing.
2. Bearing defective. 2. Install and lubricate a new
bearing.
3. Bearing not lubricated. 3. Install and lubricate a new
bearing.
4. Clutch misalignment. 4. Inspect clutch and correct as
necessary. Install and lubricate a
new bearing.
Clutch will not disengage 1. Low clutch fluid level. 1. Replace hydraulic linkage
properly. assembly.
2. Clutch cover loose. 2. Follow proper bolt tightening
procedure.
3. Clutch disc bent or distorted. 3. Replace clutch disc.
4. Clutch cover diaphragm spring 4. Replace clutch cover.
bent or warped.
5. Clutch disc installed backwards. 5. Remove and install clutch disc
correctly.
6. Release fork bent or fork pivot 6. Replace fork or pivot as
loose or damaged. necessary.
7. Clutch master or slave cylinder 7. Replace hydraulic linkage
failure. assembly.
Clutch pedal squeak. 1. Pivot pin loose. 1. Tighten pivot pin if possible.
Replace clutch pedal if necessary.
2. Master cylinder bushing not 2. Lubricate master cylinder
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lubricated. bushing.
3. Pedal bushings worn out or 3. Replace and lubricate bushings.
cracked.
Clutch master or slave cylinder 1. Master or slave cylinder 1. Replace clutch hydraulic
plunger dragging or binding components worn or corroded. linkage assembly.
Release bearing is noisy. 1. Release bearing defective or 1. Replace release bearing.
damaged.
Contact surface of release bearing 1. Clutch cover incorrect or 1. Replace clutch cover and
damaged. release fingers bent or distorted. release bearing.
2. Release bearing defective or 2. Replace the release bearing.
damaged.
3. Release bearing misaligned. 3. Check and correct runout of
clutch components. Check front
bearing sleeve for
damage/alignment. Repair as
necessary.
Partial engagement of clutch disc. 1. Clutch pressure plate position 1. Replace clutch disc and cover.
One side of disc is worn and the incorrect.
other side is glazed and lightly 2. Clutch cover, spring, or release 2. Replace clutch disc and cover.
worn. fingers bent or distorted.
3. Clutch disc damaged or 3. Replace clutch disc.
distorted.
4. Clutch misalignment. 4. Check alignment and runout of
flywheel, disc, pressure plate, and
clutch housing. Correct as
necessary.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CLUTCH
Use Mopar® brake fluid, or an equivalent quality fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards only. Use
BLEED CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT
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Fig. 1: Identifying Bleeder & Slave Cylinder

1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder, top off brake fluid as necessary.
2. Open bleeder (1) on slave cylinder (2) and install a length of clear hose to divert fluid into suitable
container. Push and hold clutch pedal down then close bleeder. Repeat this step several times.
3. Remove slave cylinder from transmission.
4. Hold slave cylinder with actuator rod pointing down and open bleeder. Push cylinder actuator rod in
completely then close bleeder. Repeat this step several times.
5. Remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleeder and install slave cylinder on transmission.
6. Actuate clutch pedal 25 times, then start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel.
If pedal feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped in the hydraulic circuit and
must be bleed again.
PRESSURE BLEED CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT
Follow manufacturers instructions carefully when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the tank
manufacturers pressure recommendations. Generally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for bleeding.
Fill bleeder tank with recommended DOT 3 fluid and purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cylinder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leakage, or
drawing air back into the system. Use adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter 6921.
NOTE: When pressure bleeding system slave cylinder must be removed and actuator
rod pointing downward to remove trapped air.
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SPECIFICATIONS
CLUTCH
Pressure Plate Bolts -
33 24 -
4.0L
33 24 -
3.7L
33 24 -
2.8L Diesel
Flywheel Bolts - 4.0L 95 70 -
Flywheel Bolts - 3.7L 95 70 -
Flywheel Bolts - 2.8L
25 then rotate wrench 60° 18 then rotate wrench 60° -
Diesel
Slave Cylinder Nuts 23 17 -
Pedal Bracket Nuts 39 29 -
DISC-CLUTCH
REMOVAL
DISC CLUTCH/PRESSURE PLATE
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Fig. 2: Pressure Plate

1. Remove transmission.
2. Mark position of pressure plate (1) on flywheel with paint or a scriber for assembly reference, if clutch is
not being replaced.
3. Loosen pressure plate bolts evenly and in rotation to relieve spring tension and avoid warping the plate.
4. Remove pressure plate bolts and pressure plate and disc.
INSTALLATION
DISC CLUTCH/PRESSURE PLATE
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Fig. 3: Identifying Flywheel, Clutch Pressure Plate & Clutch Alignment Tool
1. Lightly scuff sand flywheel face with 180 grit emery cloth, then clean with a wax and grease remover.
2. Lubricate pilot bearing with Mopar® high temperature bearing grease or equivalent.
3. Check runout and operation of new clutch disc.
NOTE: Disc must slide freely on transmission input shaft splines.
4. With the disc on the input shaft, check face runout with dial indicator. Check runout at disc hub 6 mm
(1/4 in.) from outer edge of facing. Obtain another clutch disc if runout exceed 0.5 mm (0.020 in.).
5. Position clutch disc on flywheel with side marked flywheel against the flywheel.
NOTE: If not marked, the flat side of disc hub goes towards the flywheel.
6. Insert clutch alignment tool (3) through the clutch disc and into the pilot bearing.
7. Position clutch pressure plate (2) over disc and on the flywheel (1).
8. Install pressure plate bolts finger tight.
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CAUTION: Use only the factory bolts to mount the pressure plate. The bolts
must be the correct size. If bolts are too short, there isn't enough
thread engagement, if too long bolts interfere with the Dual Mass
Flywheel.
9. Tighten pressure plate bolts evenly and in rotation a few threads at a time.
CAUTION: The bolts must be tightened evenly and to specified torque. Failure to
follow these instructions will distort the pressure plate.
10. Tighten pressure plate bolts 33 N.m (24 ft. lbs.).

11. Apply light coat of Mopar® high temperature bearing grease or equivalent to clutch disc hub and splines
of transmission input shaft.
CAUTION: Do not over lubricate shaft splines. This will result in grease
contamination of disc.
12. Install transmission.
DISC CLUTCH/PRESSURE PLATE - 2.8L DIESEL
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Fig. 4: Identifying Flywheel With Side Marked Flywheel Side

1. Lightly scuff sand flywheel face with 180 grit emery cloth, then clean with a wax and grease remover.
2. Lubricate pilot bearing with Mopar® high temperature bearing grease or equivalent.
3. Check runout and operation of new clutch disc.
NOTE: Disc must slide freely on transmission input shaft splines.
4. With the disc on the input shaft, check face runout with dial indicator. Check runout at disc hub 6 mm
(1/4 in.) from outer edge of facing. Obtain another clutch disc if runout exceed 0.5 mm (0.020 in.).
5. Position clutch disc on flywheel with side marked flywheel side (1) against the flywheel. If not marked,
the flat side of disc hub goes towards the flywheel.
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Fig. 5: Identifying Flywheel, Clutch Pressure Plate & Clutch Alignment Tool
6. Insert clutch alignment tool (3) through the clutch disc and into the pilot bearing.
7. Position clutch pressure plate (2) over disc and on the flywheel (1).
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Fig. 6: Pressure Plate Bolts

8. Install pressure plate bolts (1) finger tight.

9. Tighten pressure plate bolts evenly and in rotation a few threads at a time.
CAUTION: The bolts must be tightened evenly and to specified torque. Failure to
follow these instruction will distort the pressure plate.
10. Tighten pressure plate bolts to 33 N.m (24 ft. lbs.).

11. Apply light coat of Mopar® high temperature bearing grease or equivalent to clutch disc hub and splines
of transmission input shaft.
CAUTION: Do not over lubricate shaft splines. Failure to follow these

instructions will contaminate the disc.
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BEARING-CLUTCH RELEASE
REMOVAL
Fig. 7: Identifying Release Bearing & Release Fork

2. Disconnect release bearing (1) from release fork (2) and remove the bearing.
3. Inspect bearing slide surface of transmission front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide surface is
scored, worn, or cracked.
4. Inspect release fork and fork pivot. Be sure pivot is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is not
distorted or worn. Replace release fork retainer spring if bent or damaged.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 8: Identifying Release Bearing & Release Fork

1. Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing with Mopar® high temperature bearing grease or equivalent. Apply
grease to end of long shank, small diameter flat blade screwdriver. Then insert tool through clutch disc
hub to reach bearing.
2. Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer slide surface, fork pivot and release fork pivot surface.
3. Install new release bearing (1) and secure to release fork (2).
FLYWHEEL
DESCRIPTION
FLYWHEEL
DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL
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Fig. 9: Dual Mass Flywheel

The Dual Mass Flywheel is used on all engines. The flywheel incorporates the ring gear (5) around the outer
circumference to mesh with the starter to permit engine cranking. The primary flywheel (6) side is bolted to the
crankshaft. The secondary flywheel (3) side serves as the driving member to the clutch disc. Internal springs (4)
between the flywheels are use to dampen energy. The Dual Mass Flywheel is serviced as an assembly only and
should never be taken apart.
FLYWHEEL
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Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08 mm
(0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the indicator on a
stud installed in place of one of the flywheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
Heat warpage
Improper machining
Incorrect bolt tightening
Improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
Foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The flywheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour and
machining will negate this feature. Minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180 grit emery or
with surface grinding equipment. Remove only enough material to reduce scoring (approximately 0.001 - 0.003
in.). Heavy stock removal is not recommended. Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe and deeper than
0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or warpage after installation; it
can also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may cock the
flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the bolts with
Mopar® Lock And Seal or equivalent. Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can
distort the flywheel hub causing runout.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
2. Remove clutch pressure plate and disc.
3. Remove flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts and remove flywheel assembly.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
1. Clean the surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate.

2. Install flywheel with new bolts and tighten in a criss-cross pattern. Tighten bolts to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
On 2.8L diesel engine tighten bolts to 25 N.m (180 ft. lbs.) then rotate wrench 60°.
3. Install clutch disc and pressure plate.
BEARING-PILOT
REMOVAL
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BEARING-PILOT
2. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc.
3. Remove pilot bearing with an internal (blind hole) puller.
INSTALLATION
BEARING-PILOT
Fig. 10: Identifying New Pilot Bearing & Clutch Alignment Tool
1. Lubricate new bearing with Mopar® high temperature bearing grease or equivalent.
2. Start new pilot bearing (1) into crankshaft by hand. Then seat bearing with clutch alignment tool (2).
3. Install clutch disc and pressure plate.
CYLINDER-MASTER
REMOVAL
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REMOVAL
Fig. 11: Identifying Actuator Rod & Clutch Pedal Pin

1. Pry actuator rod (1) off clutch pedal pin (2).
Fig. 12: Identifying Hose, Wiring Harness & Hydraulic Line

2. Remove hose (1) from clutch master cylinder and plug hose to prevent fluid loss.
3. Disconnect wiring harness (3) from pedal position switch.
4. Pull the hydraulic line (2) clip and remove line from bottom of clutch master cylinder.
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Fig. 13: Identifying Clutch Master Cylinder Assembly & Brake Booster Mounting Plate
5. Turn clutch master cylinder assembly (1) clockwise a quarter turn and remove from brake booster
mounting plate (2).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
Fig. 14: Identifying Clutch Master Cylinder Assembly & Brake Booster Mounting Plate
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1. Install clutch master cylinder (1) through brake booster mounting plate (2) and turn counter clockwise a
quarter turn.
Fig. 15: Identifying Hose, Wiring Harness & Hydraulic Line

2. Install actuator hose (1) to clutch master cylinder.

3. Install hydraulic line (2) to the bottom of clutch master cylinder.
NOTE: Verify O-ring is on hydraulic line.
4. Connect wiring harness (3) to pedal position switch.
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5. Install actuator rod (1) on clutch pedal pin (2).

6. Bleed clutch hydraulic circuit.
CYLINDER-SLAVE
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 17: Identifying Hydraulic Line, Slave Cylinder & Mounting Nuts
1. With transmission in neutral, position vehicle on hoist.

2. Pull clip from hydraulic line (1) at the slave cylinder (2) and remove the line.
3. Remove mounting nuts (3) from slave cylinder (2).
4. Remove the slave cylinder.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 18: Identifying Hydraulic Line, Slave Cylinder & Mounting Nuts
1. Install slave cylinder (2) in transmission.

2. Install slave cylinder nuts (3) and tighten to 23 N.m (17 ft. lbs.).
3. Install hydraulic line (1) to slave cylinder (2).
NOTE: Verify O-ring is on hydraulic line.
4. Bleed hydraulic system.
PEDAL-CLUTCH
REMOVAL
PEDAL-CLUTCH
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1. Remove steering column lower cover and knee blocker for access.
2. Disengage bushing (1) attaching clutch master cylinder actuator to pedal pivot (2).
3. Remove nuts attaching pedal and bracket to dash panel and upper cowl support.
4. Separate pedal assembly from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
PEDAL-CLUTCH
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1. Place clutch pedal and bracket over studs on dash panel and cowl support.
2. Install pedal and bracket to dash panel nuts and tighten to 39 N.m (29 ft. lbs.).
3. Install actuator (1) on brake pedal pivot (2).
SWITCH-CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION

DESCRIPTION
The clutch pedal position switch is attached to the side of the clutch master cylinder.
The clutch pedal position switch override relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Refer to PDC
cover label for location within PDC.
OPERATION
The clutch pedal position switch is used to prevent starter motor engagement unless the clutch pedal is
depressed. An input from this switch is also used to either shut down/prevent operation of the speed control
system when the clutch pedal is depressed.
Four Wheel Drive Feature: The clutch pedal position switch override relay, inhibits operation of the position
switch when the vehicle transfer case is in the four wheel drive low-range position. This enables the starter
motor to operate without depressing the clutch pedal, for off-road applications. If Diagnostic Trouble Codes
(DTC's) for the override relay or transfer case switch are stored, override relay will be inhibited.
START INTERLOCK TEST - DIESEL AND GAS
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Fig. 21: Clutch Pedal Switch Connector

Ohm meter set on continuity: One lead on switch START INTERLOCK post 2 and second lead on COMMON
post 3.
Pedal Released - No Continuity

Pedal Depressed End Of Stroke - Continuity
CRUISE TEST - DIESEL ONLY
Fig. 22: Clutch Pedal Switch Connector

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Ohm meter set on continuity: One lead on switch CRUISE post 1 and second lead on COMMON post 3.
Pedal Released - Continuity

Pedal Depressed Beginning Of Stroke - No Continuity
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 23: Identifying Wiring Harness & Pedal Position Switch

1. Disconnect wiring harness (1) from pedal position switch (2).
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Fig. 24: Identifying Pedal Position Switch

2. Pry pedal position switch (1) off clutch master cylinder.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
Fig. 25: Identifying Pedal Position Switch

1. Snap pedal position switch (1) on clutch master cylinder.
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Fig. 26: Identifying Wiring Harness & Pedal Position Switch

2. Connect harness (1) to clutch pedal position switch (2).
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2007 ENGINE Cooling - Nitro
2007 ENGINE
Cooling - Nitro
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The cooling system regulates engine operating temperature. It allows the engine to reach normal operating
temperature as quickly as possible, maintains normal operating temperature and prevents overheating.
The cooling system also provides a means of heating the passenger compartment. The cooling system is
pressurized and uses a centrifugal water pump to circulate coolant throughout the system. A separate and
remotely mounted, pressurized coolant tank using a pressure/vent cap is used.
COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS
The cooling system consists of:
Charge Air Cooler (Turbocharged vehicles only)

2 Speed Electric Cooling Fan
Engine driven fan with viscous clutch (Diesel Engine)
A aluminum-core radiator with plastic side tanks
Combined Coolant Recover Container/Washer Reservoir (Gas Engine)
Combined coolant pressure bottle/overflow system with pressure cap
Radiator
Water pump
Combination A/C condenser/transmission oil cooler (automatic transmission)
Thermostat
Coolant
Water pump
Hoses and hose clamps
OPERATION
OPERATION
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Fig. 1: Coolant Flow - 3.7L/4.7L

1 - LH CYL. HEAD
2 - AIR BLEED
3 - THERMOSTAT LOCATION
4 - RH CYL. HEAD
5 - RH BANK CYL. BLOCK
6 - LH BANK CYL. BLOCK
7 - COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR
The cooling system regulates engine operating temperature. It allows the engine to reach normal operating
temperature as quickly as possible. It also maintains normal operating temperature and prevents overheating.
The cooling system also provides a means of heating the passenger compartment. The cooling system is
pressurized and uses a centrifugal water pump to circulate coolant throughout the system.

DEAERATION
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Air can only be removed from the system by gathering under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it will be
pushed past the pressure cap into the coolant recovery bottle by thermal expansion of the coolant. It then
escapes to the atmosphere in the coolant recovery bottle and is replaced with coolant on cool down.
To effectively deaerate the system, multiple thermal cycles of the system may be required.
NOTE: Deaeration does not occur at engine idle, higher engine speeds are required.
Normal driving will deaerate cooling system.
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS (OBD)
COOLING SYSTEM RELATED DIAGNOSTICS
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has been programmed to monitor certain cooling system components:
If the engine has remained cool for too long a period, such as with a stuck open thermostat, a Diagnostic
Trouble Code (DTC) can be set.
If an open or shorted condition has developed in the relay circuit controlling the electric radiator fan, a
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) can be set.
If the problem is sensed in a monitored circuit often enough to indicate an actual problem, a DTC is stored. The
DTC will be stored in the PCM memory for eventual display to the service technician. Refer to OPERATION .
ACCESSING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
To read DTC's and to obtain cooling system data. Refer to OPERATION .
ERASING TROUBLE CODES
After the problem has been repaired, use the diagnostic scan tool to erase a DTC. Refer to the appropriate
Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures service information for operation of the diagnostic scan tool.
FLOW CHECK-DIESEL
To determine whether coolant is flowing through the cooling system, use the following procedures:
1. If engine is cold, idle engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Then feel the upper radiator
hose. If it is hot, coolant is circulating.
WARNING: Do not remove the cooling system pressure cap with the system hot
and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.
2. Remove pressure/vent cap when engine is cold, idle engine until thermostat opens, you should observe
coolant flow while looking down in the coolant recovery pressure container. Once flow is detected install
the pressure/vent cap.
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PRELIMINARY CHECKS
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM OVERHEATING
Establish what driving conditions caused the complaint. Abnormal loads on the cooling system such as the
following may be the cause:
Prolonged idle
Very high ambient temperature
Slight tail wind at idle
Slow traffic
Traffic jams
High speed or steep grades
Any accessory that fully or partially blocks grill opening
RECENT SERVICE OR ACCIDENT REPAIR:
Engine adjustments (incorrect timing)

Slipping accessory drive belt
Brakes (possibly dragging)
Changed parts (incorrect water pump)
Reconditioned radiator or cooling system refilling (possibly under filled or air trapped in system).
NOTE: If investigation reveals none of the previous items as a cause for an

engine overheating complaint, refer to following Cooling System
Diagnosis charts.
TRAILER TOWING:
Consult Trailer Towing section of owners manual. Do not exceed limits.
These charts are to be used as a quick-reference only.

TEMPERATURE GAUGE 1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code 1. Refer to OPERATION .
READS LOW (DTC) been set indicating a stuck Replace thermostat if necessary.
open thermostat?
2. Is the temperature sending unit 2. Check the temperature sensor
connected? connector. See DESCRIPTION.
Repair connector if necessary.
3. Is the temperature gauge 3. Check gauge operation. Repair
operating OK? as necessary.
4. Coolant level low in cold 4. Check coolant level in the
ambient temperatures coolant pressure bottle and the
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accompanied with poor heater radiator. Inspect system for leaks.

performance. Repair leaks as necessary.
5. Improper operation of internal 5. Inspect heater and repair as
heater doors or heater controls. necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING .
6. Electric fan functioning when 6. Inspect electric fan for proper
not required. operation. Refer to FAN-
RADIATOR-ELECTRIC in this
article. Refer to SYSTEM
WIRING DIAGRAMS for
electric cooling fan and relay
circuit schematic data.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE 1. Trailer is being towed, a steep 1. This may be a temporary
READS HIGH OR THE hill is being climbed, vehicle is condition and repair is not
COOLANT WARNING LAMP operated in slow moving traffic, or necessary. Turn off the air
ILLUMINATES. COOLANT engine is being idled with very conditioning and attempt to drive
MAY OR MAY NOT BE LOST high ambient (outside) the vehicle without any of the
OR LEAKING FROM THE temperatures and the air previous conditions. Observe the
COOLING SYSTEM. conditioning is on. Higher temperature gauge. The gauge
altitudes could aggravate these should return to the normal range.
conditions. If the gauge does not return to the
normal range, determine the cause
for overheating and repair.
2. Is the temperature gauge 2. Check gauge. (Refer to
reading correctly? ENGINE TEMPERATURE
GAUGE ). Repair as necessary.
3. Is the temperature warning 3. Check warning lamp operation.
illuminating unnecessarily? (Refer to TRANS TEMP
INDICATOR ). Repair as
necessary.
4. Coolant low in coolant pressure 4. Check for coolant leaks and
bottle and radiator? repair as necessary.
5. Pressure cap not installed 5. Tighten cap.
tightly. If cap is loose, boiling
point of coolant will be lowered.
Also refer to the following Step 6.
6. Poor seals at the radiator cap. 6. (a) Check condition of cap and
cap seals. See DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING.
(b) Check condition of radiator
filler neck. If neck is bent or
damaged, replace radiator.
7. Coolant not flowing through 7. (a) Check condition of pressure
system. bottle cap and cap seals. See
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
(b) Check condition of the hose
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from the radiator to the coolant

tank. It should fit tight at both
ends without any kinks or tears.
Replace hose if necessary.
(c) Check pressure bottle/overflow
tank and tank's hoses for blockage.
8. Incorrect coolant concentration 8. Check coolant. See
DESCRIPTION for correct
coolant/water mixture ratio.
9. Radiator or A/C condenser fins 9. Remove insects and debris.
are dirty or clogged.
10. Radiator core is corroded or 10. Replace radiator.
plugged.
11. Fuel or ignition system 11. Refer to Fuel System article or
problems. appropriate Engine Electrical
Diagnostic article for diagnosis
and testing procedures
12. Dragging brakes. 12. Check and correct as
necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING for correct
procedures.
13. Bug screen or cardboard is 13. Remove bug screen or
being used, reducing airflow. cardboard.
14. Thermostat partially or 14. Check thermostat operation
completely shut. and replace as necessary. See
REMOVAL.
15. Viscous fan drive not 15. Check fan drive operation and
operating properly. replace as necessary. See
16. Cylinder head gasket leaking. 16. Check for cylinder head gasket
leaks. See DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING. For repair, . Refer to
REMOVAL .
17. Heater core leaking. 17. Check heater core for leaks.
Refer to REMOVAL . Repair as
necessary.
18. Electric fan not functioning. 18. Inspect electric fan for proper
operation. See DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE 1. During cold weather operation, 1. A normal condition. No
READING IS INCONSISTENT with the heater blower in the high correction is necessary.
(FLUCTUATES, CYCLES OR IS position, the gauge reading may
ERRATIC) drop slightly.
2. Temperature gauge or engine 2. Check operation of gauge and
mounted gauge sensor defective or repair if necessary. Refer to
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shorted. Also, corroded or loose DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .

wiring in this circuit.
3. Gauge reading rises when
3. A normal condition. No
vehicle is brought to a stop after
correction is necessary. Gauge
heavy use (engine still running).
should return to normal range after
vehicle is driven.
4. Gauge reading high after re- 4. A normal condition. No
starting a warmed up (hot) engine. correction is necessary. The gauge
should return to normal range after
a few minutes of engine operation.
5. Coolant level low in cooling 5. Check and correct coolant leaks.
system (air build up in the cooling See DIAGNOSIS AND
system causing the thermostat to TESTING.
open late).
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking 6. (a) Check for cylinder head
allowing exhaust gas to enter gasket leaks. Refer to
cooling system causing a DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .
thermostat to open late. (b) Check for coolant in the engine
oil. Inspect for white steam
emitting from the exhaust system.
7. Water pump impeller loose on 7. Check water pump and replace
shaft. as necessary.
8. Loose accessory drive belt. 8. See DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING. Check and correct as
necessary.
9. Air leak on the suction side of 9. Locate leak and repair as
the water pump allows air to build necessary.
up in cooling system causing
thermostat to open late.
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING 1. Pressure relief valve in radiator 1. Check condition of radiator cap
OFF STEAM OR COOLANT TO pressure cap is defective. and cap seals. See DIAGNOSIS
COOLANT RECOVERY AND TESTING. Replace cap as
CONTAINER. TEMPERATURE necessary.
GAUGE READING MAY BE
ABOVE NORMAL BUT NOT
HIGH. COOLANT LEVEL MAY 2. Overfilled cooling system or 2. Wait for engine to cool and
BE HIGH IN COOLANT extremely low coolant level. adjust coolant level.
RECOVERY CONTAINER.
COOLANT LOSS TO THE 1. Coolant leaks in radiator, 1. Pressure test and repair as
GROUND WITHOUT cooling system hoses, water pump necessary. See DIAGNOSIS
PRESSURE CAP BLOWOFF. or engine. AND TESTING.
GAUGE READING HIGH OR
HOT
DETONATION OR PRE- 1. Engine overheating. 1. Check reason for overheating
IGNITION (NOT CAUSED BY and repair as necessary.
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IGNITION SYSTEM). GAUGE 2. Freeze point of coolant not 2. Check coolant concentration.
MAY OR MAY NOT BE correct. Mixture is too rich or too See DESCRIPTION, and adjust
READING HIGH lean. ratio as required.
HOSE OR HOSES COLLAPSE 1. Vacuum created in cooling 1. (a) Radiator cap relief valve
WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING system on engine cool-down is not stuck. See DIAGNOSIS AND
being relieved through coolant TESTING. Replace if necessary.
reserve/overflow system. (b) Hose between coolant
reserve/overflow tank and radiator
is kinked. Repair as necessary.
(c) Vent at coolant
reserve/overflow tank is plugged.
Clean vent and repair as
necessary.
(d) Reserve/overflow tank is
internally blocked or plugged.
Check for blockage and repair as
necessary.
INADEQUATE HEATER 1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code 1. Refer to EMISSIONS
PERFORMANCE. (DTC) been set? CONTROL
2. Coolant level low. 2. See DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING.
3. Obstructions in heater 3. Remove heater hoses at both
hose/fittings. ends and check for obstructions.
4. Heater hose kinked. 4. Locate kinked area and repair as
necessary.
5. Water pump is not pumping 5. If a slipping belt is detected, see
water to/through the heater core. REMOVAL. If heater core
When the engine is fully warmed obstruction is detected, . See
up, both heater hoses should be STANDARD PROCEDURE for
hot to the touch. If only one of the cooling system reverse flushing.
hoses is hot, the water pump may
not be operating correctly or the
heater core may be plugged.
Accessory drive belt may be
slipping causing poor water pump
operation.
STEAM IS COMING FROM 1. During wet weather, moisture 1. Occasional steam emitting from
THE FRONT OF VEHICLE (snow, ice or rain condensation) this area is normal. No repair is
NEAR THE GRILLE AREA on the radiator or condenser will necessary.
WHEN WEATHER IS WET, evaporate when the thermostat
ENGINE IS WARMED UP AND opens. This opening allows heated
RUNNING, AND VEHICLE IS water into the radiator. When the
STATIONARY. moisture contacts the hot radiator
TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS IN or condenser, steam may be
NORMAL RANGE emitted. This usually occurs in
cold weather with no fan or
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airflow to blow it away.

COOLANT COLOR 1. Coolant color is not necessarily 1. See DESCRIPTION for
an indication of adequate coolant concentration information.
corrosion or temperature Adjust coolant mixture as
protection. Do not rely on coolant necessary.
color for determining condition of
coolant.
COOLANT LEVEL CHANGES 1. Level changes are to be 1. A normal condition. No repair
IN COOLANT expected as coolant volume is necessary.
RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. fluctuates with engine
TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS IN temperature. If the level in the
NORMAL RANGE tank was between the FULL and
ADD marks at normal operating
temperature, the level should
return to within that range after
operation at elevated
temperatures.
FAN RUNS ALL THE TIME 1. Fan control sensors inoperative. 1. Check for DTCs. Verify sensor
readings.
2. Transmission temperature too 2. Check for transmission over
high. temp DTC.
3. Engine coolant temperature too 3. (a) Check coolant level. Correct
high. level as required.
(b) Thermostat stuck. Replace
thermostat.
(c) Water pump failed. Replace
water pump.
(d) Coolant flow restricted. Clean
radiator.
(e) Air flow over radiator
obstructed. Remove obstruction.
4. ECM or TIPM defective. 4. Replace ECM or TIPM
AERATION
Low coolant level in a cross flow radiator will equalize in both tanks with engine off. With engine running and
at operating temperature, the high pressure inlet tank runs full and the low pressure outlet tank drops, resulting
in cooling system aeration. Aeration will draw air into the water pump resulting in the following:
High reading shown on the temperature gauge.

Loss of coolant flow through the heater core.
Corrosion in the cooling system.
Water pump seal may run dry, increasing the risk of premature seal failure.
Combustion gas leaks into the coolant can also cause aeration.
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LEAK TESTING
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD
Fig. 2: Identifying Black Light Tool

1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
A leak detection additive is available through the parts department that can be added to cooling system. The
additive is highly visible under ultraviolet light (black light). Pour one ounce of additive into cooling system.
Place heater control unit in HEAT position. Start and operate engine until radiator upper hose is warm to touch.
Aim the commercially available black light tool at components to be checked. If leaks are present, black light
will cause additive to glow a bright green color.
The black light (1) can be used in conjunction with a pressure tester to determine if any external leaks exist.
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
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Fig. 3: Pressure Testing Cooling System

1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
The engine should be at normal operating temperature. Recheck the system cold if cause of coolant loss is not
located during the warm engine examination.
WARNING: Hot, pressurized coolant can cause injury by scalding.
Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from pressure bottle and check coolant level. Push down on cap to
disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of filler neck and examine lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks,
paint, and dirt. Inspect radiator-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a wire through
the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester seal will be
affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to radiator filler neck.
Operate tester pump (1) to apply 110 kPa (16 psi) pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or bulges
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while testing, replace as necessary. Observe gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling system according
to following criteria:
Holds Steady: If pointer remains steady for two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in system.
However, there could be an internal leak that does not appear with normal system test pressure. If it is certain
that coolant is being lost and leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage or perform Internal Leakage
Test.
Drops Slowly: Indicates a small leak or seepage is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or slight
leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes with a Sealer
Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak holes and inspect system again with pressure applied.
Drops Quickly: Indicates that serious leakage is occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If leaks are
not visible, inspect for internal leakage. Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a reputable radiator
repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in the pan, it will
drain first because it is heavier than oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a short period to churn
the oil. After this is done, remove engine dipstick and inspect for water globules. Also inspect transmission
dipstick for water globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: With radiator pressure tester tool installed on radiator, do not allow
pressure to exceed 124 kpa (18 psi). Pressure will build up quickly if a
combustion leak is present. To release pressure, rock tester from side to
side. When removing tester, do not turn tester more than 1/2 turn if
system is under pressure.
Operate engine without pressure cap on radiator until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to filler neck.
If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a cylinder head
gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase, pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated pressure is
within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi). Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or combustion
leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic converter, do not remove spark plug cables or short out
cylinders to isolate compression leak.
If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an abnormal
amount of coolant or steam. This would be emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from exhaust pipe may
indicate a faulty cylinder head gasket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into cooling system is provided by a commercially available Block
Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers instructions when using this product.
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COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: Do not remove cylinder block drain plugs or loosen radiator draincock
with system hot and under pressure. Serious burns from coolant can
occur.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat removal. See REMOVAL. Remove accessory drive belt . See
REMOVAL.
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3 mm (1/4 in) of top of thermostat housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate engine for an excessive period of time.
Open draincock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to approximately 3000 RPM while observing coolant. If internal
engine combustion gases are leaking into cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bubbles do not
appear, internal combustion gas leakage is not present.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
DRAINING
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Fig. 4: Identifying Cylinder Block Drain Plug & Exhaust Mainfold And Heat Shield
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUG

2 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND HEAT SHIELD
WARNING: Do not remove the cylinder block drain plugs (1) or loosen the radiator
draincock with system hot and under pressure. Serious burns from
coolant can occur.
1. DO NOT remove radiator cap first. With engine cold, raise vehicle on a hoist and locate radiator
draincock.
NOTE: Radiator draincock is located on the left/lower side of radiator facing to

rear of vehicle.
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2. Attach one end of a hose to the draincock. Put the other end into a clean container. Open draincock and
drain coolant from radiator. This will empty the coolant reserve/overflow tank. The coolant does not have
to be removed from the tank unless the system is being refilled with a fresh mixture. When tank is empty,
remove radiator cap and continue draining cooling system.
FILLING-DIESEL
1. Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder block drain plug(s) (if removed).
CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling system can result in an
overheating condition and severe engine damage.
2. Fill cooling system with the antifreeze mixture. Refer to DESCRIPTION . Fill pressure bottle to service
line and install cap.
NOTE: The engine cooling system will push any remaining air into the coolant
bottle within about an hour of normal driving. As a result, a drop in coolant
level in the pressure bottle may occur.
If the engine cooling system overheats and pushes coolant into the
overflow side of the coolant bottle, this coolant will be sucked back into
the cooling system ONLY IF THE PRESSURE CAP IS LEFT ON THE
BOTTLE. Removing the pressure cap breaks the vacuum path between the
two bottle sections and the coolant will not return to cooling system.
3. With heater control unit in the HEAT position, operate engine with pressure bottle cap in place.
4. Add coolant to pressure bottle as necessary. Only add coolant to the pressure bottle when the engine is
cold. Coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion.
NOTE: The coolant bottle has two chambers. Coolant will normally only be in the
outboard (larger) of the two. The inboard chamber is only to recover coolant in
the event of an overheat or after a recent service fill. The inboard chamber
should normally be empty. If there is coolant in the overflow side of the coolant
bottle (after several warm/cold cycles of the engine) and coolant level is above
cold full when cold, disconnect the end of the overflow hose at the fill neck and
lower it into a clean container. Allow coolant to drain into the container until
emptied. Reconnect overflow hose to fill neck.
FILLING-GAS
Remove radiator pressure cap and fill system, using 50/50 mixture of the appropriate fluid and distilled water.
Refer to DESCRIPTION .
Continue filling system until full. Do not spill coolant on drive belts or the generator. For cooling system
capacity,
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Fill coolant recovery/reserve container to at least the MAX mark. It may be necessary to add coolant to the
recovery/reserve container after three or four warm up/cool down cycles to maintain coolant level between the
MAX and MIN mark. This will allow trapped air to be removed from the system.
CLEANING/REVERSE FLUSHING
CAUTION: The cooling system normally operates at 97-110 kPa (14-16 psi) pressure.
Exceeding this pressure may damage the radiator or hoses.
Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forcing of water through the cooling system. This is done using air
pressure in the opposite direction of normal coolant flow. It is usually only necessary with very dirty systems
with evidence of partial plugging.
CHEMICAL CLEANING
If visual inspection indicates the formation of sludge or scaly deposits, use a radiator cleaner (Mopar® Radiator
Kleen or equivalent) before flushing. This will soften scale and other deposits and aid the flushing operation.
CAUTION: Be sure instructions on the container are followed.
REVERSE FLUSHING RADIATOR
Disconnect the radiator hoses from the radiator fittings. Attach a section of radiator hose to the radiator bottom
outlet fitting and insert the flushing gun. Connect a water supply hose and air supply hose to the flushing gun.
CAUTION: The cooling system normally operates at 97-110 kPa (14 -16 psi) pressure.
Exceeding this pressure may damage the radiator or hoses.
Allow the radiator to fill with water. When radiator is filled, apply air in short blasts allowing radiator to refill
between blasts. Continue this reverse flushing until clean water flows out through rear of radiator cooling tube
passages. For more information, refer to operating instructions supplied with flushing equipment. Have radiator
cleaned more extensively by a radiator repair shop.
REVERSE FLUSHING ENGINE
Drain the cooling system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat.
Install the thermostat housing. Disconnect the radiator upper hose from the radiator and attach the flushing gun
to the hose. Disconnect the radiator lower hose from the water pump. Attach a lead away hose to the water
pump inlet fitting.
CAUTION: Be sure that the heater control valve is closed (heat off). This is done to
prevent coolant flow with scale and other deposits from entering the
heater core.
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Connect the water supply hose and air supply hose to the flushing gun. Allow the engine to fill with water.
When the engine is filled, apply air in short blasts, allowing the system to fill between air blasts. Continue until
clean water flows through the lead away hose. For more information, refer to operating instructions supplied
with flushing equipment.
Remove the lead away hose, flushing gun, water supply hose and air supply hose. Remove the thermostat
housing. See REMOVAL. Install the thermostat and housing with a replacement gasket . See
INSTALLATION. Connect the radiator hoses. Refill the cooling system with the correct antifreeze/water
mixture . See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
INSPECTION
COOLING-INSPECTION
After performing a cleaning/flush procedure, inspect all hoses, clamps and connections for deterioration and
leaks. Inspect radiator and heater core for leaks.
SPECIFICATIONS
FILL VOLUMES
Metric US
3.7L 13.2L 14.0 qts.
4.0L 13.2 L 14.0 qts.
2.8L Diesel 12.5 L 11.8 qts
Engine Air Tubes
Turbocharger to Intercooler 4.7 - 42
Intercooler to Intake Manifold 4.7 - 42
Automatic Belt Tensioner to Mounting Bracket - 3.7L 41 30 -
Automatic Belt Tensioner Pulley Bolt - 3.7L 61 45 -
Accessory Drive Belt Idler Pulley Bolt - 2.8L Diesel 53 39 -
Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner Bolt - 2.8L Diesel 47.1 35 -
Viscous Fan Drive to Engine - 3.7L 95 70 -
Viscous Fan Drive to Engine - 2.8L Diesel 149 110 -
Cooling Fan Support Bolts 47.1 35 -
Block Heater Bolt - 3.7L 2 - 17
Transmission Oil/Condenser to Radiator Bolts 11.9 - 105
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Coolant Pressure Bottle to Plenum mounting Bolts -3.7L 8.5 - 75

only
Electric Fan to Fan Shroud Bolts 9 - 80
Fan Blade Assy. to Viscous Drive Bolts - 3.7L/2.8L HD 23.7 - 210
Cooling
Fan Shroud to Radiator Mounting Bolts 9 - 80
Radiator Upper Isolator to Crossmember - Bolts 10.7 - 95
Thermostat Housing Bolts - - -
2.8L Diesel 27.5 21 -
3.7L 13 - 115
Water Pump Bolts
3.7L 54 40 -
Water Pump Housing Nuts - 2.8L Diesel 24.4 18 -
SPECIAL TOOLS
SPECIAL TOOLS
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Fig. 5: Release Tool 8875A

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Fig. 6: Adapter Pins 8346

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Fig. 7: Spanner Wrench 6958

Fig. 8: Cooling System Pressure Tester - 7700A

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Fig. 9: Coolant Refractometer - 8286

ACCESSORY DRIVE
BELT-ACCESSORY DRIVE
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The accessory drive belt is a serpentine type belt. Satisfactory performance of these belts depends on belt
condition and proper belt tension.
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
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Fig. 10: Belt Wear Patterns

1 - NORMAL CRACKS BELT OK

2 - NOT NORMAL CRACKS REPLACE BELT
When diagnosing serpentine drive belts, small cracks (1) that run across ribbed surface of belt from rib to rib,
are considered normal. These are not a reason to replace belt. However, cracks running along a rib (not across)
are not normal. Any belt with cracks running along a rib must be replaced. Also replace belt if it has excessive
wear, frayed cords or severe glazing.
SERPENTINE DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS CHART
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RIB CHUNKING (ONE OR 1. Foreign objects imbedded in 1. Remove foreign objects from
MORE RIBS HAS pulley grooves. pulley grooves. Replace belt.
SEPARATED FROM BELT
BODY) 2. Installation damage. 2. Replace belt.
RIB OR BELT WEAR 1. Pulley(s) misaligned. 1. Align pulley(s).
2. Abrasive environment. 2. Clean pulley(s). Replace belt if
necessary.
3. Rusted pulley(s). 3. Clean rust from pulley(s).
4. Sharp or jagged pulley groove 4. Replace pulley.
tips.
5. Rubber deteriorated. 5. Replace belt.
LONGITUDINAL BELT 1. Belt has mistracked from pulley 1. Replace belt.
CRACKING (CRACKS groove.
BETWEEN TWO RIBS) 2. Pulley groove tip has worn away 2. Replace belt.
rubber to tensile member.
BELT SLIPS 1. Belt slipping because of 1. Replace automatic belt
insufficient tension. tensioner.
2. Belt routed incorrectly. 2. Verify belt routing.
3. Incorrect belt. 3. Replace belt.
4. Belt or pulley subjected to 4. Replace belt and clean pulleys.
substance (belt dressing, oil
ethylene glycol) that has reduced
friction.
5. Driven component bearing 5. Replace faulty component
failure. bearing.
6. Belt glazed and hardened from 6. Replace belt.
heat and excessive slippage.
"GROOVE JUMPING" (BELT 1. Belt tension either too high or too 1. Replace automatic belt
DOES NOT MAINTAIN low. tensioner.
CORRECT POSITION ON 2. Belt routed incorrectly. 2. Verify belt routing.
PULLEY) 3. Incorrect belt. 3. Replace belt.
4. Pulley(s) not within design 4. Replace pulley(s).
tolerance.
5. Foreign object(s) in grooves. 5. Remove foreign objects from
grooves.
6. Pulley misalignment. 6. Check and replace.
7. Belt cord line is broken. 7. Replace belt.
BELT BROKEN (NOTE: 1. Excessive tension. 1. Replace belt and automatic belt
IDENTIFY AND CORRECT tensioner.
PROBLEM BEFORE NEW 2. Incorrect belt. 2. Replace belt.
BELT IS INSTALLED) 3. Tensile member damaged during 3. Replace belt.
belt installation.
4. Severe misalignment. 4. Check and replace.
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5. Bracket, pulley, or bearing 5. Replace defective component

failure. and belt.
NOISE (OBJECTIONABLE 1. Belt slippage. 1. Replace belt or automatic belt
SQUEAL, SQUEAK, OR tensioner.
RUMBLE IS HEARD OR FELT 2. Bearing noise. 2. Locate and repair.
WHILE DRIVE BELT IS IN 3. Belt misalignment. 3. Replace belt.
OPERATION) 4. Belt-to-pulley mismatch. 4. Install correct belt.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL-3.7L
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Fig. 11: Identifying Belt Routing - 3.7L

1 - GENERATOR PULLEY
3 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
5 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - TENSIONER
7 - A/C COMPRESSOR PULLEY
CAUTION: Do not let tensioner arm snap back to the freearm position, severe damage
may occur to the tensioner.

2. Remove combination washer reservoir/coolant recovery container. See REMOVAL.
3. Rotate belt tensioner (6) until it contacts its stop. Remove belt, then slowly rotate the tensioner into the
freearm position.
REMOVAL-4.0L
Fig. 12: Accessory Drive Belt Routing - 4.0L

1 - GENERATOR
2 - IDLER PULLEY
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6 - A/C COMPRESSOR
1. Remove combination coolant recovery/washer reservoir. See REMOVAL.

2. Insert a suitable square drive ratchet into the square hole on belt tensioner arm.
3. Rotate accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise to release belt tension.
4. Remove accessory drive belt.
REMOVAL-2.8L DIESEL
Fig. 13: Belt Routing - 2.8L Diesel

1 - WITH A/C
2 - WITHOUT A/C
CAUTION: Do not let tensioner arm snap back to the freearm position, severe damage
may occur to the tensioner.
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Fig. 14: Identifying Belt Tensioner & Locking Tabs

2. Rotate the belt tensioner (1) until the position locking tabs (3 and 4) line up.
Fig. 15: Removing/Installing Drift

3. Install a drift into the belt tensioner (1) at position 2.
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Fig. 16: Removing/Installing Accessory Drive Belt

4. Remove the accessory drive belt (1).
CLEANING
CLEANING
Clean all foreign debris from belt pulley grooves. The belt pulleys must be free of oil, grease, and coolants
before installing the drive belt.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION-2.8L DIESEL
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Fig. 17: Belt Routing - 2.8L Diesel

1 - WITH A/C
2 - WITHOUT A/C
1. Check condition of all pulleys.
Fig. 18: Identifying Pulley Assembly - 2.8L Diesel

CAUTION: When installing the accessory drive belt, the belt MUST be routed
correctly. If not, the engine may overheat due to the water pump
rotating in the wrong direction.
2. Install accessory drive belt. Route the belt around all pulleys (1 or 2) except the idler pulley.
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Fig. 19: Rotating Tensioner Arm Until It Contacts Its Stop Position
3. Rotate the tensioner arm until it contacts its stop position. Route the belt around the idler and slowly let
the tensioner rotate into the belt. Make sure the belt is seated onto all pulleys.
Fig. 20: Identifying Belt Tensioner & Locking Tabs

4. Remove the drift from the belt tensioner.
INSTALLATION-3.7L
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Fig. 21: Automatic Tensioner Assembly

1 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
1. Check condition of all pulleys.
CAUTION: When installing the accessory drive belt, the belt MUST be routed
correctly. If not, the engine may overheat due to the water pump
rotating in the wrong direction.
2. Install new belt. Route the belt around all pulleys except the idler pulley. Rotate the tensioner arm (1)
until it contacts its stop position. Route the belt around the idler and slowly let the tensioner rotate into the
belt. Make sure the belt is seated onto all pulleys.
3. With the drive belt installed, inspect the belt wear indicator. On 3.7L Engines the gap between the tang
and the housing stop (measurement A) must not exceed 24 mm (0.94 inches).
4. Install combination washer reservoir/coolant recovery container. See INSTALLATION.
INSTALLATION-4.0L
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Fig. 22: Accessory Drive Belt Routing - 4.0L

1 - GENERATOR
2 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - A/C COMPRESSOR
NOTE: When installing accessory drive belt onto pulleys, make sure that belt is
properly routed and all V-grooves make proper contact with pulleys.
1. Rotate tensioner clockwise and position accessory drive belt over all pulleys.
2. Gently release tensioner.
3. Install combination coolant recovery/washer reservoir. See INSTALLATION.
BELTS-DRIVE-POWER STEERING
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 23: Removing/Installing Power Steering Belt

1 - POWER STEERING BELT

2 - POWER STEERING PULLEY
3 - ACCESS HOLE
1. Remove accessory drive belt. See REMOVAL.

2. Position suitable tool between power steering belt (1) and power steering pulley (2) at the top of the
pulley.
3. Use a socket and ratchet to rotate the crankshaft clockwise.
4. While rotating the crankshaft clockwise, walk the power steering belt (1) off of the power steering pulley
(2).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 24: Removing/Installing Power Steering Belt

1 - POWER STEERING BELT

2 - POWER STEERING PULLEY
3 - ACCESS HOLE
1. Position power steering belt (1) on crankshaft pulley (4). Make sure belt is fully seated in crankshaft
pulley grooves.
2. Position top of power steering belt on the top of the power steering pulley (2).
NOTE: Use only wire ties with nylon locks, not metal.
3. Working from the back side of the power steering pulley (2) , insert a nylon wire tie, 7.75X1/8x.0.050 in,
through one of the access holes (3) in the pulley.
4. Tighten the wire tie to hold the drive belt in position.
5. While holding the drive belt to make sure it stays in position, slowly rotate the engine clockwise.
6. Once the belt is in position on the pulley, continue rotating the engine until the wire tie snaps.
7. Remove the wire tie from the vehicle.
TENSIONER-ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
DESCRIPTION
BELT TENSIONERS-DESCRIPTION
The automatic belt tensioner is a spring loaded arm and pulley assembly. The tensioner assembly is designed to
apply constant pressure on the accessory drive belt to maintain proper belt tension.
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OPERATION
BELT TENSIONER-OPERATION
WARNING: The automatic belt tensioner assembly is spring loaded. Do not attempt to
disassemble the tensioner assembly.
The automatic belt tensioner maintains correct belt tension using a coiled spring within the tensioner housing.
The spring applies pressure to the tensioner arm pressing the arm into the belt, tensioning the belt.
If a new belt is being installed, the arrow must be within approximately 3 mm (1/8 in.) of indexing mark. Belt is
considered new if it has been used 15 minutes or less. If this specification cannot be met, check for:
The wrong belt being installed (incorrect length/width)

Worn bearings on an engine accessory (A/C compressor, power steering pump, water pump, idler pulley
or generator)
A pulley on an engine accessory being loose
Misalignment of an engine accessory
Belt incorrectly routed.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL-4.0L
Fig. 25: Removing/Installing Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner - 4.0L

1 - IDLER PULLEY
3 - MOUNTING BOLT
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2. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
REMOVAL-3.7L
Fig. 26: Removing/Installing Automatic Belt Tensioner - 3.7L


2 - BOLT TORQUE TO 41 N.m (30 FT LBS)
3 - AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONER
1. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to REMOVAL ).

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2. Remove tensioner assembly (3) from engine front cover.
WARNING: Because of high spring tension, do not attempt to disassemble

automatic tensioner. Unit is serviced as an assembly (except for
pulley on tensioner).
3. Remove pulley bolt. Remove pulley from tensioner.
REMOVAL-2.8L DIESEL
Fig. 27: Removing/Installing Accessory Drive Belt


2. Remove accessory drive belt (9). See Fig. 27. See REMOVAL.
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Fig. 28: Removing/Installing Belt Tensioner Retaining Bolt And Tensioner

3. Remove belt tensioner retaining bolt and remove tensioner (1).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION-3.7L
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Fig. 29: Removing/Installing Automatic Belt Tensioner - 3.7L


2 - BOLT TORQUE TO 41 N.m (30 FT LBS)
3 - AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONER
1. Install pulley and pulley bolt to tensioner. Tighten bolt to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
2. An indexing slot is located on back of tensioner. Align this slot to the head of the bolt on the front cover.
Install the mounting bolt. Tighten bolt to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.).
3. Install drive belt (Refer to INSTALLATION ).
4. Check belt indexing marks (Refer to INSTALLATION ).
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Fig. 30: Belt Tensioner Assembly

1 - ACCESSORY BELT TENSIONER RETAINING BOLT

3 - BELT TENSIONER
4 - BRACKET
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6 - POWER STEERING PUMP RETAINING BOLTS

7 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY RETAINING BOLTS
1. Install belt tensioner on bracket. Tighten retaining bolt to 47 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 31: Accessory Belt Routing

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1 - IDLER PULLEY
2 - GENERATOR
3 - IDLER PULLEY
4 - A/C COMPRESSOR
5 - COOLING FAN SUPPORT
7 - BELT TENSIONER
10 - VISCOUS HEATER
2. Install accessory drive belt. See INSTALLATION.

INSTALLATION-4.0L

1 - IDLER PULLEY
3 - MOUNTING BOLT
1. Position accessory drive belt tensioner (2).

2. Install mounting bolt (3). Tighten bolt to Tighten bolt to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
PULLEY-IDLER
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REMOVAL
REMOVAL-4.0L

1 - IDLER PULLEY
3 - MOUNTING BOLT

2. Remove cover.
3. Remove bolt and pulley (1).
IDLER PULLEY-REMOVAL-2.8L DIESEL
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Fig. 34: Idler Pulley

CAUTION: The retaining bolts on the idler pulleys are left hand thread.

3. Remove idler pulley retaining bolts and pulley.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION-4.0L

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1 - IDLER PULLEY
3 - MOUNTING BOLT
1. Position idler pulley (1).

2. Tighten bolt to (3) 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
3. Install cover.
IDLER PULLEY-INSTALLATION-2.8L DIESEL
Fig. 36: Idler Pulley

1. Install idler pulley and retaining bolt. Tighten bolts to 53 N.m (39 ft. lbs.)
ENGINE
COOLANT
DESCRIPTION
COOLANT-DESCRIPTION
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ETHYLENE-GLYCOL MIXTURES
CAUTION: Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be measured with normal field

equipment and can cause problems associated with 100 percent ethylene-
glycol.
The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and water mixture depends upon the climate and vehicle operating
conditions. The recommended mixture of 50/50 ethylene-glycol and water will provide protection against
freezing to -37°C (-35°F). The antifreeze concentration must always be a minimum of 44 percent, year-round
in all climates. If percentage is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation, and
cooling system components may be severely damaged by corrosion. Maximum protection against freezing is
provided with a 68 percent antifreeze concentration, which prevents freezing down to -67.7°C (-90°F). A higher
percentage will freeze at a warmer temperature. Also, a higher percentage of antifreeze can cause the engine to
overheat because the specific heat of antifreeze is lower than that of water.
Use of 100 percent ethylene-glycol will cause formation of additive deposits in the system, as the corrosion
inhibitive additives in ethylene-glycol require the presence of water to dissolve. The deposits act as insulation,
causing temperatures to rise to as high as 149°C (300°F). This temperature is hot enough to melt plastic and
soften solder. The increased temperature can result in engine detonation. In addition, 100 percent ethylene-
glycol freezes at 22°C (-8°F).
PROPYLENE-GLYCOL MIXTURES
It's overall effective temperature range is smaller than that of ethylene-glycol. The freeze point of 50/50
propylene-glycol and water is -32°C (-26°F). 5°C higher than ethylene-glycol's freeze point. The boiling point
(protection against summer boil-over) of propylene-glycol is 125°C (257°F) at 96.5 kPa (14 psi), compared to
128°C (263°F) for ethylene-glycol. Use of propylene-glycol can result in boil-over or freeze-up on a cooling
system designed for ethylene-glycol. Propylene glycol also has poorer heat transfer characteristics than ethylene
glycol. This can increase cylinder head temperatures under certain conditions.
Propylene-glycol/ethylene-glycol mixtures can cause the destabilization of various corrosion inhibitors, causing
damage to the various cooling system components. Also, once ethylene-glycol and propylene-glycol based
coolants are mixed in the vehicle, conventional methods of determining freeze point will not be accurate. Both
the refractive index and specific gravity differ between ethylene glycol and propylene glycol.
DESCRIPTION
GAS ENGINES
WARNING: Antifreeze is an ethylene glycol based coolant and is harmful if swallowed

or inhaled. If swallowed, drink two glasses of water and induce vomiting.
If inhaled, move to fresh air area. Seek medical attention immediately. Do
not store in open or unmarked containers. Wash skin and clothing
thoroughly after coming in contact with ethylene glycol. Keep out of reach
of children. Dispose of glycol based coolant properly, contact your
government agency for location of collection center in your area. Do not
open a cooling system when the engine is at operating temperature or hot
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under pressure, personal injury can result. Avoid radiator cooling fan
when engine compartment related service is performed, personal injury
can result.
CAUTION: Use of Propylene Glycol based coolants is not recommended, as they

provide less freeze protection and less boiling protection.
The cooling system is designed around the coolant. The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in the
cylinder head area near the exhaust valves and engine block. Then coolant carries the heat to the radiator where
the tube/fin radiator can transfer the heat to the air.
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion protection.
Mopar® Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equivalent ethylene glycol based
coolant with hybrid organic corrosion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) is
recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% Ethylene
Glycol and 50% distilled water to obtain a freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). If it loses color or becomes
contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution.
The green coolant MUST NOT BE MIXED with the orange or magenta coolants. When replacing coolant the
complete system flush must be performed before using the replacement coolant.
CAUTION: Mopar® Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may

not be mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Doing so will reduce the
corrosion protection and may result in premature water pump seal failure.
If non-HOAT coolant is introduced into the cooling system in an
emergency, it should be replaced with the specified coolant as soon as
possible.
DIESEL ENGINE
CAUTION: Use of Propylene Glycol based coolants is not recommended, as they

provide less freeze protection and less boiling protection.
The cooling system is designed around the coolant. The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in the
cylinder head area near the exhaust valves and engine block. Then coolant carries the heat to the radiator where
the tube/fin radiator can transfer the heat to the air.
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion protection.
Glysantin G 30-91 Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/150,000 Mile Formula (ASTM D3306), or the equivalent
ethylene glycol based coolant. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with
50% coolant and 50% distilled water to obtain a freeze point of -36°C (-34°F). It is dyed purple to distinguish
it's unique chemistry from traditional green and yellow silicate coolants. If it loses color or becomes
contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution.
The purple coolant MUST NOT BE MIXED with the orange, green or magenta coolants. When replacing
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coolant the complete system flush must be performed before using the replacement coolant.
CAUTION: Glysantin G 30-91 Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/150,00 Mile Formula (ASTM

D3306) may not be mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Doing so will
reduce the corrosion protection and may result in premature water pump
seal failure.
OPERATION
OPERATION
Coolant flows through the engine block absorbing the heat from the engine, then flows to the radiator where the
cooling fins in the radiator transfers the heat from the coolant to the atmosphere. During cold weather the
ethylene-glycol or coolant prevents water present in the cooling system from freezing within temperatures
indicated by mixture ratio of coolant to water.
COOLANT-CONCERTRATION TESTING
Coolant concentration should be checked when any additional coolant was added to system or after a coolant
drain, flush and refill. The coolant mixture offers optimum engine cooling and protection against corrosion
when mixed to a freeze point of -37°C (-34°F) to -46°C (-50°F). The use of a hydrometer or Tool 8266,
refractometer can be used to test coolant concentration.
A hydrometer will test the amount of glycol in a mixture by measuring the specific gravity of the mixture. The
higher the concentration of ethylene glycol, the larger the number of balls that will float, and higher the freeze
protection (up to a maximum of 60% by volume glycol).
A Refractometer Tool 8286 will test the amount of glycol in a coolant mixture by measuring the amount a beam
of light bends as it passes through the fluid.
Some coolant manufactures use other types of glycols into their coolant formulations. Propylene glycol is the
most common new coolant. However, propylene glycol based coolants do not provide the same freezing
protection and corrosion protection and are not recommended.
CAUTION: Do not mix types of coolant - corrosion protection will be severely

reduced.
CONTAINER-COOLANT RECOVERY
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION-PRESSURE SYSTEM
This system works on the principal of a closed and deaerated system using thermally generated pressure. The
expansion and contraction of the coolant in the pressurized closed system keeps it free of trapped air. It
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provides:
A pressurized surge tank volume for expansion and contraction.

A non-pressurized overflow volume to capture excess coolant expansion and allow for it's return to the
pressurized system.
A pressurized cap on the pressure bottle rather than the radiator. This facilitates deaeration of the system.
Reserve coolant is included in the pressurized volume to account for minor leaks and evaporation or
boiling losses.
Provides a warning light for low coolant level.
DESCRIPTION-NON-PRESSURE SYSTEM
This system works on the principal of a closed and completely deaerated system using thermally generated
pressure. The bottle acts as a reserve coolant source to keep air out of the system but must have a specified
minimum amount of coolant in the bottle at all times. The expansion and contraction of the coolant in the
pressurized closed coolant loop allows the reserve bottle to accept and give up excess fluid via a hose from the
radiator neck. It provides:
A non-pressurized reserve coolant tank volume for expansion and contraction of coolant.
A pressurized cap on the radiator. This keeps the main loop of the cooling system at an elevated operating
pressure and prevents coolant boiling at lower temperatures.
Reserve coolant is included in the non-pressurized tank in enough quantity to account for minor leaks and
evaporation or boiling losses, and to keep the return line back to the radiator full at all times. Failure to do
so could allow air to be sucked back into the radiator as the engine and engine coolant cool down and the
coolant volume contracts.
OPERATION
OPERATION-PRESSURE SYSTEM
As the engine warms, the coolant in the closed system expands. The pressurized bottle accepts the expanding
fluid. Then, when the thermostat opens and a high demand for coolant is placed on the system, the pressurized
surge tank side of the bottle can supply the temporary additional volume of coolant demanded by the system.
Once the water pump catches up with the flow demand, the tank returns to equilibrium. A separate compartment
in the bottle accepts the overflow coolant which is then drawn back into the primary side of the bottle when the
engine and coolant cool down
The advantage of the pressurized system is that any excess air in the cooling system is routed to the top of the
bottle via a vent hose at the thermostat housing to the bottle. This air accumulates at the top of the pressurized
volume in the bottle (the highest point in the system) and is forced out of the system through the pressure cap.
This keeps the system properly deaerated and maintains pressure in the cooling system to prevent water pump
cavitation
The diesel bottle has an additional vent line back to the radiator that is immersed in the coolant bath at the
bottle. This also ensures air at the radiator is routed back to bottle for expulsion and that a constant head of
liquid is present at the radiator.
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OPERATION-NON PRESSURE SYSTEM
The coolant reserve/overflow system works in conjunction with the radiator pressure cap. It utilizes thermal
expansion and contraction of coolant to keep coolant free of trapped air. It provides a volume for expansion and
contraction of coolant. It also provides a convenient and safe method for checking coolant level and adjusting
level at atmospheric pressure. This is done without removing the radiator pressure cap. The system also
provides some reserve coolant to the radiator to cover minor leaks and evaporation or boiling losses.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is formed in the cooling system of both the radiator and engine. Coolant will
then be drawn from the coolant tank and returned to a proper level in the radiator.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL-NON PRESSURE SYSTEM
Fig. 37: Identifying Radiator Pressure Cap, Hose & Coolant Recovery Bottle
1 - RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP

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2 - HOSE
3 - COOLANT RECOVERY BOTTLE
1. Remove hose (2) from radiator.

2. Remove recovery container mounting bolts.
3. Remove recovery container (3).
REMOVAL-PRESSURE SYSTEM
Fig. 38: Coolant Bottle - Pressure System

1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - COOLANT BOTTLE
3 - MOUNTING NUTS
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4 - COOLANT BOTTLE TO RADIATOR HOSE

5 - CLAMP
6 - RADIATOR
7 - LOWER HOSE
8 - MOUNTING BRACKET
1. Remove pressure cap from bottle.

2. Siphon coolant from pressure bottle (2) into a contaminant free container.
3. Disconnect coolant bottle to radiator hose at coolant bottle.
4. Disconnect lower hose at coolant bottle.
5. Remove mounting nuts.
6. Remove coolant bottle from bracket.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION-NON PRESSURE SYSTEM
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Fig. 39: Identifying Radiator Pressure Cap, Hose & Coolant Recovery Bottle
1 - RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP

2 - HOSE
3 - COOLANT RECOVERY BOTTLE
1. Position coolant recovery container (3).

2. Install coolant recovery container mounting bolts.
3. Install hose (2).
INSTALLATION-PRESSURE SYSTEM
Fig. 40: Coolant Bottle - Pressure System

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1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - COOLANT BOTTLE
3 - MOUNTING NUTS
4 - COOLANT BOTTLE TO RADIATOR HOSE
5 - CLAMP
6 - RADIATOR
7 - LOWER HOSE
8 - MOUNTING BRACKET
1. Position pressure bottle on mounting bracket.

2. Install mounting nuts. Tighten nuts to 8.5 N.m (75 in. lbs.).
3. Install lower hose at coolant bottle.
4. Install radiator to coolant bottle hose at coolant bottle.
5. Fill cooling system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
HOSES-COOLING SYSTEM-2.8L DIESEL
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 41: Heater Core Return Hoses

1. Drain cooling system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.

2. Remove engine cover from engine. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect heater core supply line at heater core and viscous heater. Remove hose from vehicle.
4. Disconnect heater core return line (5) from heater core and EGR cooler. Remove hose from vehicle.
REMOVAL-UPPER HOSE-2.8L DIESEL

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Fig. 42: Identifying Fan Shroud, Hose Clamp, Upper Radiator Hose & Thermostat Housing
1 - FAN SHROUD
2 - HOSE CLAMP
3 - UPPER RADIATOR HOSE

2. Disconnect upper radiator hose (3) from thermostat housing.
3. Disconnect upper radiator hose from radiator and remove from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION-UPPER HOSE-2.8L DIESEL
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Fig. 43: Identifying Fan Shroud, Hose Clamp, Upper Radiator Hose & Thermostat Housing
1 - FAN SHROUD
2 - HOSE CLAMP
1. Install upper radiator hose on radiator and thermostat housing.

2. Reposition hose clamps in proper position.
3. Refill cooling system to proper level. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 44: Heater Core Return Hoses

1. Connect heater core supply hose to heater core and viscous heater. Position hose clamps into proper
position.
2. Connect heater core return hose to heater core and EGR cooler. Position hose clamps into proper position.
3. Install engine cover to engine. Refer to INSTALLATION .
4. Refill cooling system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
HEATER-ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The block heater is operated by ordinary house current (110 Volt A.C.) through a power cord and connector
located in the engine compartment. The heater is mounted in a core hole (in place of a core hole plug) in the
engine block, with the heating element immersed in coolant.
CAUTION: The power cord must be secured in its retainer clips, and not positioned
so it could contact linkages or exhaust manifolds and become damaged.
OPERATION
OPERATION
The block heater element is submerged in the cooling system's coolant. When electrical power (110 volt A.C.)
is applied to the element, it creates heat. This heat is transferred to the engine coolant. This provides easier
engine starting and faster warm-up when vehicle is operated in areas having extremely low temperatures.
REMOVAL
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REMOVAL-3.7L
Fig. 45: Identifying Power Cord, Block Heater & Core Hole
1 - POWER CORD
2 - BLOCK HEATER
3 - CORE HOLE

3. Detach power cord plug from heater.
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4. Loosen screw in center of heater. Remove heater assembly.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION-3.7L
Fig. 46: Identifying Power Cord, Block Heater & Core Hole
1 - POWER CORD
2 - BLOCK HEATER
3 - CORE HOLE
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1. Thoroughly clean core hole and heater seat.

2. Insert heater assembly (2) with element loop positioned upward .
3. With heater seated, tighten center screw securely to assure a positive seal.
CAUTION: To prevent damage, the power cord must be secured in its retaining
clips, and not positioned so it could contact linkages or exhaust
manifold.
4. Connect power cord to heater.

5. Lower vehicle.
SENSOR-ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is used to sense engine coolant temperature. The sensor
protrudes into an engine water jacket.
The ECT sensor is a two-wire Negative Thermal Coefficient (NTC) sensor. Meaning, as engine coolant
temperature increases, resistance (voltage) in the sensor decreases. As temperature decreases, resistance
(voltage) in the sensor increases.
OPERATION
OPERATION
At key-on, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) sends out a regulated 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor. The
PCM then monitors the signal as it passes through the ECT sensor to the sensor ground (sensor return).
When the engine is cold, the PCM will operate in Open Loop cycle. It will demand slightly richer air-fuel
mixtures and higher idle speeds. This is done until normal operating temperatures are reached.
The PCM uses inputs from the ECT sensor for the following calculations:
For engine coolant temperature gauge operation through the bus communications
Injector pulse-width
Spark-advance curves
ASD relay shut-down times
Idle Air Control (IAC) motor key-on steps
Pulse-width prime-shot during cranking
O2 sensor closed loop times
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Purge solenoid on/off times

EGR solenoid on/off times (if equipped)
Leak Detection Pump operation (if equipped)
Radiator fan relay on/off times (if equipped)
Target idle speed
REMOVAL
REMOVAL-3.7L ENGINE
Fig. 47: Removing/Installing MAP Sensor/ECT Sensor

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1 - MOUNTING SCREWS
2 - MAP SENSOR
3 - ECT SENSOR
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor (3) is installed into a water jacket at front of intake manifold
near rear of generator.
WARNING: Hot, pressurized coolant can cause injury by scalding. Cooling system
must be partially drained before removing the coolant temperature
sensor.
1. Partially drain cooling system.

2. Disconnect electrical connector from sensor.
3. Remove sensor from intake manifold.
REMOVAL-2.8L DIESEL
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Fig. 48: Cylinder Head Assembly

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1 - CYLINDER HEAD BOLT

2 - GLOW PLUG
3 - COOLANT FITTING
4 - CYLINDER HEAD ALIGNMENT DOWEL
5 - GLOW PLUG HARNESS
6 - CYLINDER LINER
7 - CYLINDER BLOCK
8 - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
9 - CYLINDER HEAD
10 - ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLIES
WARNING: Do not remove or loosen the coolant pressure/vent cap, cylinder block
drain plugs, or the draincock when the system is hot and under pressure
because serious burns from the coolant can occur.

2. Drain the cooling system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
3. Disconnect coolant temperature sensor electrical connector.
4. Remove coolant temperature sensor (3) from cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION-3.7L ENGINE
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Fig. 49: Removing/Installing MAP Sensor/ECT Sensor

1 - MOUNTING SCREWS
2 - MAP SENSOR
3 - ECT SENSOR
1. Apply thread sealant to sensor threads.

2. Install sensor to engine.
3. Tighten coolant temperature sensor to 11 N.m (8 ft. lbs.) torque.
4. Replace any lost engine coolant.
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ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR-INSTALLATION-2.8L DIESEL ENGINE
Fig. 50: Cylinder Head Assembly
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1 - CYLINDER HEAD BOLT

2 - GLOW PLUG
3 - COOLANT FITTING
4 - CYLINDER HEAD ALIGNMENT DOWEL
5 - GLOW PLUG HARNESS
6 - CYLINDER LINER
7 - CYLINDER BLOCK
8 - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
9 - CYLINDER HEAD
10 - ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLIES
1. Install coolant temperature sensor in thermostat housing.

2. Connect coolant temperature sensor electrical connector.
FAN-RADIATOR-ELECTRIC
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 51: Identifying Radiator, Electric Cooling Fan Connector, Fan Shroud & 2 Speed Electric Cooling
Fan
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ELECTRIC COOLING FAN CONNECTOR
3 - FAN SHROUD
4 - 2 SPEED ELECTRIC COOLING FAN
The fan (4) is electrically controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) through the fan control relays.
The relays are located in the PDC in the engine compartment.
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OPERATION
OPERATION
The electric radiator cooling fan is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) through the radiator
cooling fan relays. The PCM regulates fan operation based on input from the engine coolant temperature sensor,
battery temperature sensor, air conditioning select switch and vehicle speed.
The fan is not energized during engine cranking regardless of the electrical input from the temperature sensors
and air conditioning switch. However, if engine operation conditions warrant fan engagement, the fan will run
once engine starts.
On vehicles NOT equipped with AC: The relay is energized when the coolant temperature is above 80°C
(176°F), or battery temperature sensor above -12°C (10°F). It will then de-energize when coolant temperature
drops below 82°C (180°F), or battery temperature sensor below -9°C (16°F).
Vehicles Equipped with AC: In addition to using coolant temperature and battery temperature sensor to
control cooling fan operation, the cooling fan will also be engaged when the, air conditioning system is
activated. The relay is also energized when air conditioning is selected and coolant temperature is above 95°C
(203°F), or, air conditioning is selected and battery temperature sensor is above 41°C (106°F). It will then de-
energize when air conditioning is selected and coolant temperature is below 92°C (198°F), or air conditioning is
selected and battery temperature is below 38°C (100°F).
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 52: Identifying Special Tool 6958 Spanner Wrench With Adapter Pins 8346 & Fan
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WRENCH WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346

2 - FAN
If the fan blade is bent, warped, cracked or damaged in any way, it must be replaced only with a replacement
fan blade. Do not attempt to repair a damaged fan blade.
NOTE: For 3.7L Heavy Duty/Max Cool/Trailer Tow cooling package, the viscous fan
cannot be removed separate from the shroud. Both fan and shroud must be
removed together.
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2. Using special tool 6958 spanner wrench and 8346 adapters, remove the viscous fan from the water pump.
See Fig. 52.
Fig. 53: Identifying Radiator, Electric Cooling Fan Connector, Fan Shroud & 2 Speed Electric
Cooling Fan
1 - RADIATOR
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3 - FAN SHROUD
3. Gently lay fan into shroud.

4. Disconnect the electrical connector (2) for the electric fan, then disconnect connector from shroud.
5. Remove the two fan shroud mounting bolts connecting the fan shroud to the radiator. See Fig. 53.
6. Remove the shroud and fan from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 54: Identifying Radiator, Electric Cooling Fan Connector, Fan Shroud & 2 Speed Electric Cooling
Fan
1 - RADIATOR
3 - FAN SHROUD
1. Install fan shroud assembly into the vehicle. Tighten fan shroud to radiator bolts to (5.5 N.m (50 in. lbs.).
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2. Install shroud mounting bolts tighten bolts to 10 N.m (89 in. lbs.).
3. Connect fan motor wire connector to harness connector, and attach connector to shroud.
5. Start engine and check fan operation.
FAN-VISCOUS RADIATOR
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 55: Identifying Viscous Fan Drive, Thermostatic Spring, Mounting Nut To Water Pump Hub
1 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE

2 - THERMOSTATIC SPRING
3 - MOUNTING NUT TO WATER PUMP HUB
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CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced because of mechanical damage, the
cooling fan blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue cracks,
loose blades, or loose rivets that could have resulted from excessive
vibration. Replace fan blade assembly if any of these conditions are found.
Also inspect water pump bearing and shaft assembly for any related
damage due to a viscous fan drive malfunction.
The thermal viscous fan drive (1) is a silicone-fluid-filled coupling used to connect the fan blades to the water
pump shaft. The coupling allows the fan to be driven in a normal manner. This is done at low engine speeds
while limiting the top speed of the fan to a predetermined maximum level at higher engine speeds. See Fig. 55.
OPERATION
OPERATION
A thermostatic bimetallic spring coil is located on the front face of the viscous fan drive unit. This spring coil
reacts to the temperature of the radiator discharge air. It engages the viscous fan drive for higher fan speed if the
air temperature from the radiator rises above a certain point. Until additional engine cooling is necessary, the
fan will remain at a reduced RPM regardless of engine speed. Normally less than 800 RPM.
Only when sufficient heat is present, will the viscous fan drive engage. This is when the air flowing through the
radiator core causes a reaction to the bimetallic coil. It then increases fan speed to provide the necessary
additional engine cooling.
Once the engine has cooled, the radiator discharge temperature will drop. The bimetallic coil again reacts and
the fan speed is reduced to the previous disengaged speed.
VISCOUS RADIATOR FAN
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag (the fan blades will revolve more than five turns when spun by
hand), replace the fan drive. This spin test must be performed when the engine is cool.
For the following test, the cooling system must be in good condition. It also will ensure against excessively high
coolant temperature.
WARNING: Be sure that there is adequate fan blade clearance before drilling.
1. Drill a 3.18-mm (1/8-in) diameter hole in the top center of the fan shroud.
2. Obtain a dial thermometer with an 8 inch stem (or equivalent). It should have a range of -18° to 105°C (0°
to 220°F). Insert thermometer through the hole in the shroud. Be sure that there is adequate clearance
from the fan blades.
3. Connect a tachometer and an engine ignition timing light (timing light is to be used as a strobe light).
4. Block the air flow through the radiator. Secure a sheet of plastic in front of the radiator (or air conditioner
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condenser). Use tape at the top to secure the plastic and be sure that the air flow is blocked.
5. Be sure that the air conditioner (if equipped) is turned off.
WARNING: Use extreme caution when the engine is operating. Do not stand in a
direct line with the fan. Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts
or fan. Do not wear loose clothing.
6. Start the engine and operate at 2400 RPM. Within ten minutes the air temperature (indicated on the dial
thermometer) should be up to 93°C (200°F). Fan drive engagement should have started to occur at
between 91° to 96°C (195° to 205°F). Engagement is distinguishable by a definite increase in fan flow
noise (roaring). The timing light also will indicate an increase in the speed of the fan.
7. When the air temperature reaches 93°C (200°F), remove the plastic sheet. Fan drive disengagement
should have started to occur at between 62° to 85°C (145° to 185°F). A definite decrease of fan flow
noise (roaring) should be noticed. If not, replace the defective viscous fan drive unit.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL-3.7L/4.0L
1. Partially drain the cooling system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.

2. Remove the upper radiator hose.
3. Remove the air filter housing assembly. Refer to REMOVAL .
Fig. 56: Using Tool 6958 And Adapter Pins 8346 To Remove Fan/Viscous Fan Drive Assembly
From Water Pump
4. Using Tool 6958 and adapter pins 8346 (1), remove fan/viscous fan drive assembly from water pump. Do
not attempt to remove fan/viscous fan drive assembly from vehicle at this time.
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5. Position the fan/fan drive assembly in the radiator shroud.

6. Remove the two shroud mounting screws.
7. Remove the radiator shroud and fan drive assembly.
8. After removing fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly, do not place viscous fan drive in horizontal
position. If stored horizontally, silicone fluid in the viscous fan drive could drain into its bearing assembly
and contaminate lubricant.
9. Remove four bolts securing fan blade assembly to viscous fan drive.
REMOVAL-2.8L DIESEL
Fig. 57: Identifying Special Tool 6958 Spanner Wrench & Fan
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1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WRENCH

2 - FAN
NOTE: The thermal viscous fan drive/fan blade assembly is attached (threaded) to
fan support.
2. Remove fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly from water pump using special tool 6958 spanner wrench,
by turning mounting nut counterclockwise as viewed from front. Threads on viscous fan drive are
RIGHT HAND.
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Fig. 58: Cooling Fan And Fan Drive Viscous Clutch Assembly & Fan Support
1 - COOLING FAN AND FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

2 - FAN SUPPORT
3. Do not attempt to remove fan/fan drive viscous clutch assembly (1) from vehicle at this time.
4. Do not unbolt fan blade assembly from fan drive viscous clutch at this time.
Fig. 59: Identifying Idler Pulley, Cooling Fan Support, Retaining Bolts & Engine Lift Hook
1 - IDLER PULLEY
2 - COOLING FAN SUPPORT
3 - RETAINING BOLTS
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4 - ENGINE LIFT HOOK
5. Remove fan shroud to radiator bolts.

6. Remove fan shroud and fan blade/fan drive viscous clutch assembly as a complete unit from vehicle.
7. After removing fan blade/fan drive viscous clutch assembly, do not place viscous clutch in horizontal
position. If stored horizontally, silicone fluid in the fan drive viscous clutch could drain into its bearing
assembly and contaminate lubricant.
8. Remove four bolts securing fan blade assembly to fan drive viscous clutch.
9. Remove cooling fan support (2) from engine block.
CLEANING
CLEANING
Clean the fan blades using a mild soap and water. Do not use an abrasive to clean the blades.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
WARNING: Do not attempt to bend or straighten fan blades if fan is not within
specifications.
CAUTION: If fan blade assembly is replaced because of mechanical damage, water

pump and viscous fan drive should also be inspected. These components
could have been damaged due to excessive vibration.
1. Remove fan blade assembly from viscous fan drive unit (four bolts).
2. Lay fan on a flat surface with leading edge facing down. With tip of blade touching flat surface, replace
fan if clearance between opposite blade and surface is greater than 2.0 mm (.090 inch). Rocking motion
of opposite blades should not exceed 2.0 mm (.090 inch). Test all blades in this manner.
3. Inspect fan assembly for cracks, bends, loose rivets or broken welds. Replace fan if any damage is found.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 60: Using Tool 6958 To Install Fan Blade/Viscous Fan Drive Assembly To Water Pump Shaft
1. Install fan blade assembly to viscous fan drive. Tighten bolts to 23 N.m (17 ft. lbs.) torque.
2. Position fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly into the radiator shroud.
3. Install the radiator shroud and fan drive assembly into the vehicle.
4. Install fan shroud retaining screws. Tighten screws to 6 N.M (50 lbs. in.)
5. Using Tool 6958, install the fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to the water pump shaft. Tighten
mounting nut to 50 N.m (37 ft. lbs.).
6. Install the upper radiator hose.
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Fig. 61: Cooling Fan And Fan Drive Viscous Clutch Assembly & Fan Support
1 - COOLING FAN AND FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

2 - FAN SUPPORT
1. Assemble fan blade to viscous fan drive. Tighten mounting bolts to 23.7 N.m (210 in. lbs.) torque.
NOTE: The viscous fan and fan shroud must be installed as an assembly.
2. Gently lay fan and viscous drive into fan shroud.
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Fig. 62: Identifying Special Tool 6958 Spanner Wrench & Fan
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WRENCH

2 - FAN
3. Install the fan shroud to radiator mounting bolt. Tighten bolts to 9 N.m (80 in. lbs.) torque.
4. Thread the fan and viscous drive onto the fan support and tighten nut using special tool 6958 spanner
wrench.
5. Install cooling fan support to engine block. Torque bolts to 149 N.m.(110 ft. lbs.).
THERMOSTAT-ENGINE COOLANT
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DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION-THERMOSTAT-3.7L
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Fig. 63: Cutaway View Of Thermostat & Bypass

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1 - FROM HEATER
2 - FROM RADIATOR
3 - TO WATER PUMP
4 - ENGINE BYPASS
5 - THERMOSTAT
CAUTION: Do not operate an engine without a thermostat, except for servicing or

testing.
A pellet-type thermostat (5) controls the operating temperature of the engine by controlling the amount of
coolant flow to the radiator. On all engines the thermostat is closed below 195°F (90°C). Above this
temperature, coolant is allowed to flow to the radiator. This provides quick engine warm up and overall
temperature control. On the 3.7L engine the thermostat is designed to block the flow of the coolant bypass
journal by 50% instead of completely blocking the flow. This design controls coolant temperature more
accurately.
The same thermostat is used for winter and summer seasons. An engine should not be operated without a
thermostat, except for servicing or testing. Operating without a thermostat causes other problems. These are:
longer engine warm-up time, unreliable warm-up performance, increased exhaust emissions and crankcase
condensation. This condensation can result in sludge formation.
DESCRIPTION-THERMOSTAT-2.8L DIESEL
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Fig. 64: Thermostat Housing, Gasket, Bolts & Bracket

1 - GASKET
3 - BOLT(S)
4 - BRACKET
A pellet-type thermostat controls the operating temperature of the engine by controlling the amount of coolant
flow to the radiator.
OPERATION
OPERATION
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The thermostat starts to open at 80°C (176°F). Above this temperature, coolant is allowed to flow to the
radiator. This provides quicker engine warm-up and overall temperature control.
The same thermostat is used for winter and summer seasons. An engine should not be operated without a
thermostat, except for servicing or testing. Operating without a thermostat causes other problems. These are:
longer engine warm-up time, unreliable warm-up performance, increased exhaust emissions and crankcase
condensation. This condensation can result in sludge formation.
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
All models are equipped with On-Board Diagnostics for certain cooling system components. If the Powertrain
Control Module (PCM) detects low engine coolant temperature, it will record a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC). For other DTC numbers, refer to OPERATION .
REMOVAL
REMOVAL-4.0L
Fig. 65: Thermostat Assembly - 4.0L


2 - HOSE CLAMP
3 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING MOUNTING BOLT
5 - UPPER RADIATOR HOSE TUBE
6 - UPPER RADIATOR HOSE TUBE MOUNTING NUTS
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1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable

3. Remove air housing. Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Remove upper intake manifold. Refer to REMOVAL .
5. Remove radiator tube mounting nuts.
6. Remove radiator hose at thermostat housing.
7. Remove thermostat housing bolts, thermostat housing and thermostat.
8. Clean thermostat housing mating surface on lower intake manifold.
REMOVAL-2.8L DIESEL
Fig. 66: Identifying Thermostat


2. Remove engine cover. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Partially drain cooling system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
4. Disconnect upper radiator hose and bypass hoses at thermostat housing (2).
5. Remove thermostat housing retaining bolts, support bracket and housing from cylinder head, discard
gasket.
REMOVAL- 3.7L
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Fig. 67: Thermostat, Thermostat Housing, Gasket, Timing Chain Cover & Thermostat
3 - THERMOSTAT AND GASKET
WARNING: Do not loosen radiator draincock with system hot and pressurized.
Serious burns from coolant can occur.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
If thermostat (3) is being replaced, be sure that replacement is specified thermostat for vehicle model and engine
type.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.

4. Remove splash shield.
5. Remove lower radiator hose clamp and lower radiator hose at thermostat housing.
6. Remove thermostat housing mounting bolts, thermostat housing and thermostat.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION- 3.7L
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Fig. 68: Thermostat, Thermostat Housing, Gasket, Timing Chain Cover & Thermostat
3 - THERMOSTAT AND GASKET
1. Clean mating areas of timing chain cover and thermostat housing.

2. Install thermostat (spring side down) into recessed machined groove on housing assembly. Make sure
rubber seal locating tab is positioned in the corresponding notch in the housing.
3. Position thermostat housing on timing chain cover.
4. Install two housing-to-timing chain cover bolts. Tighten bolts to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
5. Install lower radiator hose on thermostat housing.
6. Install splash shield.
7. Lower vehicle.
9. Connect negative battery cable to battery.
10. Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 69: Identifying Thermostat

1. Clean old gasket material from cylinder head and thermostat housing.
2. Install thermostat housing with gasket and support bracket to cylinder head. Torque bolts to 28 N.m. (250
in. lbs.).
3. Connect coolant bypass hose and upper radiator hose to thermostat housing.
5. Install engine cover. Refer to INSTALLATION .
INSTALLATION-4.0L
Fig. 70: Thermostat Assembly - 4.0L

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2 - HOSE CLAMP
3 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING MOUNTING BOLT
5 - UPPER RADIATOR HOSE TUBE
6 - UPPER RADIATOR HOSE TUBE MOUNTING NUTS
1. Make sure jiggle pin is at the 12 O'clock position. Position thermostat and thermostat housing lower
intake manifold.
2. Install thermostat housing bolts. Tighten bolts to 35 N.m (25 ft. lbs.).
3. Install upper radiator hose onto thermostat housing
4. Position upper radiator hose tube and install mounting nuts. Tighten nuts to 9 N.m, (85 in. lbs.).
5. Install upper intake manifold. Refer to INSTALLATION .
6. Install air cleaner housing. Refer to INSTALLATION .
RADIATOR
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 71: Cross Flow Radiator - Typical

1 - RADIATOR
All vehicles are equipped with a cross flow type radiator (1) with plastic side tanks.
Plastic tanks, while stronger than brass, are subject to damage by impact, such as from tools or wrenches.
Handle radiator with care.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 72: Identifying Air Dam, Radiator, Air Dam, A/C Condenser & Air Seal
1 - AIR DAM
2 - RADIATOR
3 - AIR DAM
4 - A/C CONDENSER
5 - AIR SEAL
WARNING: Do not remove the cylinder block drain plugs or loosen the radiator
draincock with the system hot and under pressure. Serious burns from
coolant can occur. Refer to cooling system draining.
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Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.
CAUTION: When removing the radiator or A/C condenser for any reason, note the
location of all radiator-to-body and radiator-to-A/C condenser rubber air
seals. These are used at the top, bottom and sides of the radiator and A/C
condenser. To prevent overheating, these seals must be installed to their
original positions.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at battery.

2. Drain coolant from radiator. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
3. Remove the front grille. Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Remove the cooling fan from the engine, if equipped.
5. Remove the two radiator mounting bolts.
6. Disconnect the connector for the electric fan.
7. Disconnect the power steering cooler line from cooler.
8. Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses.
9. Disconnect the overflow hose from radiator (2).
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Fig. 73: Identifying Radiator, Alignment Dowel, Radiator Lower Isolator & Radiator Lower
Crossmember
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ALIGNMENT DOWEL
3 - RADIATOR LOWER ISOLATOR
4 - RADIATOR LOWER CROSSMEMBER
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10. The lower part of radiator is equipped with two alignment dowel pins (2). They are located on the bottom
of radiator tank and fit into rubber grommets. These rubber grommets are pressed into the radiator lower
crossmember.
WARNING: The air conditioning system (if equipped) is under a constant

pressure even with the engine off. Refer to refrigerant warnings in,
heating and air conditioning before handling any air conditioning
component.
NOTE: The radiator and radiator cooling fan can be removed as an assembly. It is
not necessary to remove the cooling fan before removing or installing the
radiator.
11. Gently lift up and remove radiator from vehicle. Be careful not to scrape the radiator fins against any
other component. Also be careful not to disturb the air conditioning condenser (if equipped).
CLEANING
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins With the engine cold, apply cold water and compressed air to the back (engine side) of the
radiator to flush the radiator and/or A/C condenser of debris.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
The radiator cooling fins should be checked for damage or deterioration. Inspect cooling fins to make sure they
are not bent or crushed, these areas result in reduced heat exchange causing the cooling system to operate at
higher temperatures. Inspect the plastic end tanks for cracks, damage or leaks.
Inspect the radiator neck for damage or distortion.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 74: Identifying Air Dam, Radiator, Air Dam, A/C Condenser & Air Seal
1 - AIR DAM
2 - RADIATOR
3 - AIR DAM
4 - A/C CONDENSER
5 - AIR SEAL
CAUTION: Before installing the radiator or A/C condenser, be sure the radiator-to-
body and radiator-to-A/C condenser rubber air seals are properly fastened
to their original positions. These are used at the top, bottom and sides of
the radiator and A/C condenser. To prevent overheating, these seals must
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be installed to their original positions.
Fig. 75: Identifying Radiator, Alignment Dowel, Radiator Lower Isolator & Radiator Lower
Crossmember
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ALIGNMENT DOWEL
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3 - RADIATOR LOWER ISOLATOR

4 - RADIATOR LOWER CROSSMEMBER
1. Gently lower the radiator and fan shroud into the vehicle. Guide the two radiator alignment dowels into
the rubber grommets located in lower radiator crossmember.
2. Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses and hose clamps to radiator.
CAUTION: The tangs on the hose clamps must be positioned straight down.
3. Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose at radiator.

4. Install both radiator mounting bolts.
5. Reconnect the electric cooling fan.
6. Install the grille. Refer to INSTALLATION .
7. Reinstall the cooling fan to the engine.
8. Rotate the fan blades (by hand) and check for interference at fan shroud.
10. Connect battery cable at battery.
11. Start and warm engine. Check for leaks.
CAP-RADIATOR PRESSURE
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 76: Identifying Main Spring, Gasket Retainer, Stainless Steel Swivel Top, Rubber Seals, Spring
Loaded Valve, Coolant Pressure Bottle, Filler Neck & Overflow Nipple
1 - MAIN SPRING
2 - GASKET RETAINER
3 - STAINLESS STEEL SWIVEL TOP
4 - RUBBER SEALS
5 - SPRING LOADED VALVE
6 - COOLANT PRESSURE BOTTLE
7 - FILLER NECK
8 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
The cooling system cap is located on the coolant pressure bottle for 3.7L/2.8L The cap construction includes;
stainless steel swivel top, rubber seals and retainer, main spring (1), and a spring loaded valve (5).
OPERATION
OPERATION
The pressure cap allows the cooling system to operate at higher than atmospheric pressure which raises the
coolant boiling point, thus allowing increased radiator cooling capacity. The pressure cap releases pressure at
some point within a range of 110 kPa ± 14 kPa (16 psi ± 2 psi).
A spring-loaded vent valve in the center of the cap allows the system to pressurize and depressurize without
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creating a vacuum. If the valve is stuck open, coolant will escape to the overflow hose. There is also a gasket in
the cap to seal to the top of the filler neck.
CAUTION: Use only the pressure cap specified for this vehicle. Use of other pressure
caps can lead to coolant loss and overheating.
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
Fig. 77: Testing Cooling System Pressure Cap

1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - PRESSURE TESTER
Dip the pressure cap (1) in water. Clean any deposits off the vent valve or its seat and apply cap to end of the
Pressure Cap Test Adaptor that is included with the Pressure Tester 7700. Working the plunger, bring the
pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa (14 psi),
replace the pressure cap.
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CAUTION: The Cooling System Tester Tool is very sensitive to small air leaks that will
not cause cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does not have a
history of coolant loss should not be replaced just because it leaks slowly
when tested with this tool. Add water to the tool. Turn tool upside down
and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap is bad.
If the pressure cap tests properly while positioned on Pressure Tester (2), but will not hold pressure or vacuum
when positioned on the filler neck. Inspect the filler neck and cap top gasket for irregularities that may prevent
the cap from sealing properly.
PRESSURE RELIEF TEST
Fig. 78: Identifying Overflow Nipple, Main Spring, Gasket Retainer, Stainless-Steel Swivel Top, Rubber
Seals, Vent Valve, Pressure Bottle & Filler Neck
1 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
2 - MAIN SPRING
3 - GASKET RETAINER
4 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
5 - RUBBER SEALS
6 - VENT VALVE
7 - PRESSURE BOTTLE
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8 - FILLER NECK
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure relief can be checked by removing the overflow hose at the
radiator filler neck nipple. Attach the Pressure Tester 7700 to the filler neck nipple (1) and pump air into the
radiator. Pressure cap upper gasket should relieve at 69-124 kPa (10-18 psi) and hold pressure at 55 kPa (8 psi)
minimum.
WARNING: The warning words "do not open hot" on the radiator pressure cap is a
safety precaution. When hot, pressure builds up in cooling system. To
prevent scalding or injury, the radiator cap should not be removed while
the system is hot or under pressure.
There is no need to remove the radiator cap at any time except for the following purposes:
1. Check and adjust coolant freeze point.

2. Refill system with new coolant.
3. Conducting service procedures.
4. Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: If vehicle has been run recently, wait 15 minutes before removing cap.
Then place a shop towel over the cap and without pushing down rotate
counterclockwise to the first stop. Allow fluids to escape through the
overflow tube and when the system stops pushing coolant and steam into
the CRS tank and pressure drops push down and remove the cap
completely. Squeezing the radiator inlet hose with a shop towel (to check
pressure) before and after turning to the first stop is recommended.
CLEANING
CLEANING
Clean the radiator pressure cap using a mild soap and water only.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
Visually inspect the pressure valve gasket on the cap. Replace cap if the gasket is swollen, torn or worn. Inspect
the area around radiator filler neck for white deposits that indicate a leaking cap.
PUMP-WATER
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 79: Cutaway View Of Thermostat & Bypass

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1 - FROM HEATER
2 - FROM RADIATOR
3 - TO WATER PUMP
4 - ENGINE BYPASS
5 - THERMOSTAT
The 3.7L engine uses an internal water/coolant bypass system. The design uses galleries in the timing chain
cover to circulate coolant during engine warm-up preventing the coolant from flowing through the radiator. The
thermostat uses a stub shaft located at the rear of the thermostat to control flow through the bypass gallery.
DESCRIPTION-3.7L
Fig. 80: Identifying Integral Water Pump Pulley, Timing Chain Covering, Thermostat Housing & Water
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Pump
1 - INTEGRAL WATER PUMP PULLEY

4 - HEATER HOSE FITTINGS
5 - WATER PUMP
A centrifugal water pump (5) circulates coolant through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold, radiator
core, cooling system hoses and heater core. The pump is driven from the engine crankshaft by a single
serpentine drive belt.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear of a shaft that rotates in bearings pressed into the housing. The
housing has two small holes to allow seepage to escape. The water pump seals are lubricated by the antifreeze
in the coolant mixture. No additional lubrication is necessary.
Both heater hoses are connected to fittings on the timing chain front cover. The water pump is also mounted
directly to the timing chain cover and is equipped with an integral pulley.
WATER PUMP-DESCRIPTION-2.8L DIESEL
Fig. 81: Identifying Water Pump

The water pump on the 2.8L diesel has a die cast aluminum housing. It bolts directly to the engine block.
OPERATION
OPERATION-3.7L
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A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold, radiator core,
cooling system hoses and heater core, this coolant absorbs the heat generated when the engine is running. The
pump is driven by the engine crankshaft via a drive belt.
WATER PUMP-OPERATION-2.8L DIESEL
The water pump is used to circulate coolant through the cooling system. The coolant is pumped through the
engine block, cylinder head, heater core, EGR cooler, viscous heater, and radiator.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL-3.7L ENGINE
Fig. 82: Identifying Special Tool 6958 Spanner Wrench With Adapter Pins 8346 & Fan
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1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WRENCH WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346

2 - FAN

3. If water pump is being replaced, do not unbolt fan blade assembly from thermal viscous fan drive.
4. Remove two fan shroud-to-radiator screws. Disconnect the coolant overflow hose.
5. Remove upper fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly from vehicle.
6. After removing fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly, do not place thermal viscous fan drive in horizontal
position. If stored horizontally, silicone fluid in viscous fan drive could drain into its bearing assembly
and contaminate lubricant.
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Fig. 83: Identifying Automatic Tensioner & Water Pump Pulley

1 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER
7. Remove accessory drive belt (1). See REMOVAL.

8. Remove lower radiator hose clamp and remove lower hose at water pump.
9. Remove seven water pump mounting bolts and one stud bolt.
CAUTION: Do not pry water pump at timing chain case/cover. The machined
surfaces may be damaged resulting in leaks.
10. Remove water pump and gasket. Discard gasket.
WATER PUMP-REMOVAL-2.8L DIESEL ENGINE
Fig. 84: Front Lifting Bracket

1. Remove the radiator fan. See REMOVAL.

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Fig. 85: Identifying Upper Front Cover & Lifting Bracket

4. Remove the upper front cover.
Fig. 86: Identifying Outer Front Cover & Crankshaft Damper

5. Remove the crankshaft damper and lower front cover.
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Fig. 87: Identifying Timing Belt

6. Remove the timing belt.
Fig. 88: Identifying Inner Front Cover

7. Remove the inner front cover.
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8. Remove water pump retaining bolts and pump.
REMOVAL-4.0L
Fig. 90: Removing/Installing A/C Compressor Mounting


2. Remove air filter housing. Refer to REMOVAL .
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4. Remove coolant recover container. See REMOVAL.

5. Remove viscous radiator fan. See REMOVAL.
6. Remove RH engine mount through bolt.
7. Raise engine assembly.
8. Remove front A/C compressor front mounting nuts and studs
9. Remove accessory drive belt bracket.
10. Remove engine timing belt. Refer to REMOVAL .


2 - M10 FASTENERS
3 - M6 FASTENERS
11. Remove water pump mounting bolts (3).

12. Remove water pump.
13. Clean mounting surface.
CLEANING
WATER PUMP-CLEANING
Clean the gasket mating surface. Use caution not to damage the gasket sealing surface.
INSPECTION
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WATER PUMP-INSPECTION
Inspect the water pump assembly for cracks in the housing, Water leaks from shaft seal, loose or rough turning
bearing or impeller rubbing either the pump body or timing chain case/cover.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION-4.0L


2 - M10 FASTENERS
3 - M6 FASTENERS
1. Position water pump and new gasket.

2. Install water pump mounting bolts. Tighten to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
3. Install engine timing belt. Refer to INSTALLATION .
4. Install accessory drive bracket. Tighten bolts to Tighten to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 93: Removing/Installing A/C Compressor Mounting

5. Install front A/C compressor mounting studs and nuts. Tighten studs to
6. Install A/C compressor mounting nuts. Tighten nuts to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
7. Lower engine and install RH engine mount through bolt. Tighten bolt to 54 N.m (40 lbs. ft.).
9. Install viscous radiator fan. See INSTALLATION.
10. Install coolant recover container. See INSTALLATION.
11. Install air filter assembly. Refer to INSTALLATION .
WATER PUMP-INSTALLATION-2.8L DIESEL ENGINE
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1. Clean mating surfaces of water pump housing and engine block as necessary.
2. Place new O-ring in groove in water pump housing. Install water pump and retaining bolts. Torque bolts
to 24 N.m (212 in. lbs.).
3. Install the water pump torque the water pump bolts to 32 Nm (23 ft. lbs.)
Fig. 95: Removing/Installing Inner Front Cover

Install the inner front cover.
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Fig. 96: Removing/Installing Timing Belt

Install the timing belt.
Fig. 97: Identifying Outer Front Cover & Crankshaft Damper

Install the outer front cover (2).
4. Install the crankshaft damper (1).
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Fig. 98: Identifying Upper Front Cover & Lifting Bracket

5. Install the upper front cover.

6. Install the lifting bracket.
7. Install the fan. See INSTALLATION.
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Fig. 99: View Of Water Pump & Bolt Tightening Sequence - 3.7L
1 - WATER PUMP
The water pump (1) on 3.7L engines is bolted directly to the engine timing chain case cover (2).
1. Clean gasket mating surfaces.

2. Using a new gasket, position water pump and install mounting bolts as shown. See Fig. 99. Tighten water
pump mounting bolts to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Spin water pump to be sure that pump impeller does not rub against timing chain case/cover.
4. Connect radiator lower hose to water pump.
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Fig. 100: Identifying Belt Routing - 3.7L

1 - GENERATOR PULLEY
5 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - TENSIONER
7 - A/C COMPRESSOR PULLEY
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5. Install accessory drive belt (2). See INSTALLATION.

6. Position upper fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly.
7. Be sure the upper and lower portions of the fan shroud are firmly connected. All air must flow through
the radiator.
8. Install two fan shroud-to-radiator screws.
9. Be sure of at least 25 mm (1.0 inches) between tips of fan blades and fan shroud.
12. Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
TRANSMISSION
STANDARD PROCEDURE
QUICK CONNECT FITTING ASSEMBLY/DISASSEMBLY
DISCONNECT
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Fig. 101: Oil Cooler Line Quick Connect Fitting - Disassembly

1 - QUICK CONNECT FITTING

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2 - DUST CAP
3 - OIL COOLER LINE
1. Remove dust cap by pulling it straight back off of quick connect fitting (1).
2. Place properly sized Release Tool (4) onto transmission cooler line with the fingers of the tool facing the
quick connect fitting.
3. Slide Release Tool down the transmission line and engage the fingers of the tool into the retaining clip.
When properly engaged in the clip, the tool will fit flush against the quick connect fitting.
4. Rotate the release tool 60° to expand the retaining clip.
5. While holding the release tool against the quick connect fitting, pull back on the transmission cooler line
to remove.
6. If quick connect fitting is damaged or leaking at transmission oil cooler or transmission, remove fitting.
CONNECT
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Fig. 102: Oil Cooler Line Quick Connect Fitting - Assembly


2 - CLIP
3 - OIL COOLER LINE
4 - DUST CAP
1. If removed, install quick connect fitting into transmission oil cooler or transmission. Tighten fitting to 15
N.m (132 in. lbs.).
2. Align transmission cooler line (3) with quick connect fitting while pushing straight into the fitting.
3. Push in on transmission cooler line until a "click" is heard or felt.
4. Slide dust cap (4) down the transmission cooler line and snap it over the quick connect fitting until it is
fully seated and rotates freely. Dust cap will only snap over quick connect fitting when the transmission
cooler line is properly installed.
NOTE: If dust cap will not snap into place, repeat assembly step #2.
COOLER-TRANSMISSION
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The automatic transmission cooler is located in the front of the condenser and behind the front fascia. The
transmission cooler is a heat exchanger that allows heat in the transmission fluid to be transferred to the air
passing over the cooler fins.
The transmission oil cooler for the 2.8L Diesel with automatic transmission integrated into the A/C condenser.
The Transmission oil cooler assembly is equipped with quick connect fitting for the transmission oil cooler
lines.
REMOVAL
TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER-REMOVAL
1. Remove electric cooling fan. See REMOVAL.

2. Position cooling fan out of the way.
3. Remove the transmission cooler line retaining block nut.
4. Remove transmission cooler lines from transmission lines.
5. Using Release Tool 8875A, disconnect transmission cooler tube from the transmission, see STANDARD
PROCEDURE.
6. Remove the transmission cooler mounting bolts.
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7. Remove transmission cooler from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER-INSTALLATION
1. Position transmission cooler in vehicle.

2. Install transmission mounting bolts. Tighten to 14 N.m (123 in. lbs.)
3. Install transmission cooler lines into transmission, see STANDARD PROCEDURE.
4. Install locking plate and nut. Tighten nut to 22.5 N.m (200 in. lbs.)
5. Install electric cooling fan. See INSTALLATION.
LINES-TRANSMISSION COOLER
STANDARD PROCEDURE
TRANSMISSION COOLER LINES-STANDARD PROCEDURE
DISCONNECT
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Fig. 103: Oil Cooler Line Quick Connect Fitting - Disassembly


2 - DUST CAP
3 - OIL COOLER LINE
1. Remove dust cap by pulling it straight back off of quick connect fitting (1).
2. Place Release Tool 8875A (4) onto transmission cooler line with the fingers of the tool facing the quick
connect fitting.
3. Slide Release Tool 8875A down the transmission line and engage the fingers of the tool into the retaining
clip. When properly engaged in the clip, the tool will fit flush against the quick connect fitting.
4. Rotate the release tool 60° to expand the retaining clip.
5. While holding the release tool against the quick connect fitting, pull back on the transmission cooler line
to remove.
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6. If quick connect fitting is damaged or leaking at transmission oil cooler or transmission, remove fitting.
CONNECT
Fig. 104: Oil Cooler Line Quick Connect Fitting - Assembly


2 - CLIP
3 - OIL COOLER LINE
4 - DUST CAP
1. If removed, install quick connect fitting into transmission oil cooler or transmission. Tighten fitting to 15
N.m (132 in. lbs.).
2. Align transmission cooler line (3) with quick connect fitting while pushing straight into the fitting.
3. Push in on transmission cooler line until a "click" is heard or felt.
4. Slide dust cap (4) down the transmission cooler line and snap it over the quick connect fitting until it is
fully seated and rotates freely. Dust cap will only snap over quick connect fitting when the transmission
cooler line is properly installed.
NOTE: If dust cap will not snap into place, repeat assembly step #2.
Microsoft
2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Speed Control - Nitro
Speed Control - Nitro
SPEED CONTROL
SWITCH
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 1: Speed Control Switch

Mounting hole (1) uses a screw. Depending on model line, mounting holes (2) may use either two screws, or
one screw and a locating pin.
WARNING: Do not place a non-deployed airbag face down on a hard surface as

the airbag will propel into the air if accidentally deployed, and could
result in serious or fatal injury.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable before
beginning steering wheel removal or installation. This will disable
the front airbag system. Failure to disconnect the battery could
result in accidental front airbag module deployment and possible
personal injury.
Allow the front airbag system capacitor to discharge for two minutes
before removing the steering wheel or any front airbag system
component.
The speed control switch is mounted in the steering wheel and wired through the clock spring device under the
airbag module.
1. Adjust steering wheel until tires are in STRAIGHT-AHEAD position.

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2. Remove negative battery cable.

3. Turn off ignition.
4. Remove air bag. Refer to REMOVAL .
Fig. 2: Horn Switch

5. Disconnect connector from clockspring.

6. Remove three mounting fasteners.
7. Remove horn switch.
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Fig. 3: Speed Control Switch Mounting Screws

8. Remove either two or three speed control switch mounting screws (1).
9. Disconnect electrical connector.
10. Remove switch.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 4: Speed Control Switch

Mounting hole (1) uses a screw. Depending on model line, mounting holes (2) may use either two screws, or
one screw and a locating pin.
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Fig. 5: Speed Control Switch Mounting Screws

1. Connect electrical connector to speed control switch.

2. Install speed control switch mounting screws.
3. Tighten screws (1) to 1.6 N.m (15 in. lbs.). Make sure rubber seal is in place around switch.
Fig. 6: Horn Switch

4. Install horn switch.

5. Install three mounting fasteners.
6. Connect electrical connector to clockspring.
7. Install driver airbag. Refer to INSTALLATION .
WARNING: Do not connect battery negative cable yet. Refer first to airbag
system test. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .
8. Reconnect battery using Airbag System Test procedure in Restraints. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING .
9. Close hood.
10. Verify vehicle and system operation.
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2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Heated Glass - Service Information - Nitro
Heated Glass - Service Information - Nitro
HEATED GLASS - SERVICE INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER (EBL) SYSTEM
CAUTION: Grid lines can be damaged or scraped off with sharp instruments. Care
should be taken in cleaning glass or removing foreign materials, decals or
stickers. Normal glass cleaning solvents or hot water used with rags or
toweling is recommended.
Fig. 1: Identifying Vertical Bus Bars, Grid Lines & Rear Window
The rear window defogger system, also known as electric backlight (EBL), consists of two vertical bus bars (1)
and a series of grid lines (2) fired onto the inside surface of the rear window (3).
The EBL system is turned on or off by a push-button switch located in the A/C-heater control. Refer to
DESCRIPTION .
OPERATION
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Fig. 2: Identifying Push-Button Switch & A/C-Heater Control

The electric backlight (EBL) system is controlled by a momentary push-button switch (1) located on the A/C-
heater control (2) in the instrument panel center bezel. When the rear window defogger switch is pressed to the
On position with the ignition switch in RUN, the switch sends a request signal over the CAN-IHS bus to the
totally integrated power module (TIPM), which provides a ground path to energize the coil in the EBL relay.
When energized, the EBL relay provides battery current through a fuse to the rear window defogger grid lines
and to the heated side view mirrors, when equipped. The grid lines heat the glass to help clear the rear window
and side mirror surfaces of fog or frost.
An amber indicator (3) in the A/C-heater control will illuminate to indicate when the EBL system is operating.
NOTE: The EBL system turns off automatically after 10 minutes of initial operation.
Each following activation cycle of the EBL system will last 5 minutes.
The EBL system will be automatically turned off after an initial programmed time interval of about 10 minutes
as long as the ignition switch is in RUN. After the initial time interval has expired, if the rear window defogger
switch is pressed to the On position again during the same ignition cycle, the EBL system will automatically
turn off after about 5 minutes. The EBL system will also turn off if the ignition switch is turned to any position
other than RUN or by manually pressing the rear window defogger switch a second time.
Repair of the rear window defogger grid lines, bus bars, terminals or pigtail wires can be accomplished using
the Mopar® Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit (Part Number 04549275) or equivalent. See STANDARD
PROCEDURE.
Circuit protection for the EBL system is provided by fuse 13 located in the TIPM.
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NOTE: Illumination of the defogger switch indicator lamp does not necessarily mean
that electrical current is reaching the rear window glass and/or the outside rear
view mirror heating grids (when equipped).
NOTE: For circuit descriptions and diagrams of the rear window defogger (EBL) and
heated mirror systems, refer to SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS .
Operation of the electric backlight (EBL) system can be confirmed by the following:
Fig. 3: Rear Window Glass Defogger Grid Test

NOTE: Typical heated rear window glass shown.
1. Use a scan tool and check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) related to the A/C-heater control and the
totally integrated power module (TIPM). If no DTCs are found, go to step 2. If any DTCs are found,
repair as required, then proceed to step 2.
2. Turn the ignition switch to RUN. Press the rear window defogger switch to the On position. Rear window
defogger operation can be checked by feeling the surfaces of the rear window glass, or the heated outside
rear view mirror glass when equipped with heated mirrors. A distinct difference in temperature between
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the grid lines (5) and the adjacent clear glass or the heated mirror glass should be detected within three to
four minutes of operation.
3. If a temperature difference is not detected, use a 12-volt DC voltmeter and contact the rear glass heating
grid terminal A (1) with the negative lead, and terminal B (2) with the positive lead. The voltmeter should
read battery voltage. If the voltmeter does not read battery voltage, check the following:
Confirm the ignition switch is in RUN.
Confirm the rear window defogger switch is pressed to the On position.
Confirm the EBL feed wire (3) is connected to the heating grid positive terminal and that there is
continuity between the EBL relay terminal and the heating grid.
Confirm the EBL ground wire (6) is connected to the heating grid negative terminal and that there
is continuity to ground.
Check fuse 13 and fuse 34 located in the TIPM. The fuses must be tight in the receptacles and the
electrical connections must be secure.
Check the EBL relay located in the TIPM. The relay must be tight in the receptacle and the
electrical connections must be secure.
When diagnosing a heater mirror concern, check fuse 54 located in the TIPM. The fuse must be
tight in the receptacle and the electrical connections must be secure.
4. If broken defogger grid lines or bus bars are suspected, use a 12-volt DC voltmeter and contact terminal
A with the negative lead and each rear glass heating grid line at its mid-point C (4) with the positive lead.
The voltmeter should read approximately 6 volts at each grid line mid-point. If the voltmeter does not
read approximately 6 volts, repair the open grid line(s) or bus bar(s). See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
5. If the EBL system operation has been verified but the rear window defogger indicator does not illuminate,
replace the A/C-heater control. Refer to REMOVAL .
GRID-REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
STANDARD PROCEDURE
GRID LINE AND TERMINAL REPAIR
WARNING: Materials contained in the Repair Kit (Part Number 04549275) may cause
skin or eye irritation. The kit contains epoxy resin and amine type
hardener, which are harmful if swallowed. Avoid contact with the skin and
eyes. For skin contact, wash the affected areas with soap and water. For
contact with the eyes, flush with plenty of water. Do not take internally. If
taken internally, induce vomiting and call a physician immediately. Use
with adequate ventilation. Do not use near fire or flame. Contains
flammable solvents. Keep out of the reach of children. Failure to follow
the warnings may result in serious or fatal injury.
Repair of the rear glass heating grid lines, bus bars, terminals or pigtail wires can be accomplished using the
Mopar® Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit (Part Number 04549275) or equivalent.
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Fig. 4: Grid Line Repair - Typical

1 - BREAK
2 - GRID LINE
3 - MASKING TAPE
1. Mask the repair area with masking tape (3) so that the conductive epoxy can be applied neatly. Extend the
epoxy application onto the grid line (2) or the bus bar on each side of the break (1).
2. Follow the instructions in the repair kit for preparing the damaged area.
3. Remove the package separator clamp and mix the two conductive epoxy components thoroughly within
the packaging. Fold the package in half and cut the center corner to dispense the epoxy.
4. Apply the epoxy through the slit in the masking tape or template. Overlap both ends of the break by at
least 19 millimeters (0.75 inch).
5. For a terminal or pigtail wire replacement, mask the adjacent areas so the epoxy can be extended onto the
adjacent grid line as well as the bus bar. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the area where the terminal or
pigtail wire was fastened and onto the adjacent grid line.
6. Apply a thin layer of conductive epoxy to the terminal or bare wire end of the pigtail and place it in the
proper location on the bus bar. To prevent the terminal or pigtail wire from moving while the epoxy is
curing, it must be wedged or clamped.
7. Carefully remove the masking tape or template.
CAUTION: Do not allow the glass surface to exceed 204°C (400°F) when using a
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heat gun, or the glass may fracture.
8. Allow the epoxy to cure 24 hours at room temperature, or carefully use a heat gun for 15 minutes. When
using a heat gun, hold it approximately 25.4 centimeters (10 inches) from the repair and do not allow the
glass surface to exceed 204°C (400°F).
9. After the conductive epoxy is properly cured, remove the wedge or clamp from the terminal or pigtail
wire.
10. Connect the wire harness leads to the grid terminals or pigtail wires and verify EBL operation.
RELAY-REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 5: Rear Window Defogger Relay

The rear window defogger (EBL) relay (1) is an International Standards Organization (ISO)-type relay. Relays
conforming to the ISO specifications have common physical dimensions, current capacities, terminal functions
and patterns (2). The EBL relay is a electromechanical device that switches fused battery current to the rear
window defogger grid and to the outside rear view mirror heating grids, when equipped. The EBL relay is
energized when the relay coil is provided a ground path by the control circuitry within the totally integrated
power module (TIPM).
The EBL relay is located in the TIPM inside the engine compartment.
OPERATION
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The rear window defogger (EBL) relay is an electromechanical switch that uses a low current input controlled
by the totally integrated power module (TIPM) to control the high current output to the rear window defogger
grid lines and to the heated outside mirrors, when equipped. The movable, common feed relay contact is held
against the fixed, normally closed relay contact by spring pressure. When the electromagnetic relay coil is
energized, it draws the movable common feed relay contact away from the fixed, normally closed relay contact
and, holds it against the fixed, normally open relay contact. This action allows high current to flow to the rear
window defogger grid lines.
When the relay coil is de-energized, spring pressure returns the movable relay contact back against the fixed,
normally closed contact point. The resistor or diode is connected in parallel with the relay coil, and helps to
dissipate voltage spikes and electromagnetic interference that can be generated as the electromagnetic field of
the relay coil collapses.
The EBL relay terminals are connected to the vehicle electrical system through a receptacle in the TIPM located
in the engine compartment. The inputs and outputs of the EBL relay include:
Terminal (30) receives battery current at all times.

Terminal (85) receives a ground through the EBL control circuit of the TIPM only when the module
electronically pulls the circuit to ground.
Terminal (86) receives battery current at all times.
Terminal (87) provides battery current to the rear window defogger grid and to the heated outside mirrors,
only when the EBL relay coil is energized.
Terminal (87A) is not connected to any circuit in this application, but provides a battery current output
only when the EBL relay coil is de-energized.
The EBL relay cannot be repaired and must be replaced if inoperative or damaged. Refer to the appropriate
wiring information for diagnosis and testing of the ISO relay and for complete rear window defogger (EBL)
wiring diagrams.
REMOVAL
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Fig. 6: Identifying Power Module (TIPM) & EBL Relay


2. Open the cover on the totally integrated power module (TIPM) (1) located in the engine compartment.
NOTE: Refer to the fuse and relay map on the inside of the TIPM cover for EBL
relay location.
3. Remove the EBL relay (2) from the TIPM.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 7: Identifying Power Module (TIPM) & EBL Relay

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NOTE: Refer to the fuse and relay map on the inside of the totally integrated power
module (TIPM) cover for EBL relay location.
1. Position the EBL relay (2) to the TIPM (1).

2. Align the EBL relay terminals with the terminal cavities in the TIPM receptacle and push down firmly on
the relay until the terminals are fully seated.
3. Close the TIPM cover.
4. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
SWITCH-REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 8: Identifying Push-Button Switch & A/C-Heater Control

The switch for the rear window defogger (EBL) system (1) is integral to the blower speed control located on the
A/C-heater control (2) in the instrument panel. When the rear window defogger switch is pressed to the On
position, a request signal is sent over the CAN-IHS bus to the totally integrated power module (TIPM) to
operate the EBL system and the amber indicator (3) illuminates.
When the EBL relay is energized, current is directed to the rear defogger grid lines and to the heated side view
mirrors, when equipped. The grid lines heat the glass to help clear the rear window and side mirror surfaces of
fog or frost.
OPERATION
The amber indicator located in the blower speed control of the A/C-heater control will illuminate when the EBL
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system is operating. When the rear window defogger switch is pressed to the On position with the ignition
switch in RUN, the switch sends a request signal to the totally integrated power module (TIPM), which then
provides a ground path to energize the coil in the EBL relay. When energized, the EBL relay provides fused
battery current to the rear window defogger grid lines and to the heated side view mirrors, when equipped.
NOTE: The EBL system turns off automatically after 10 minutes of initial operation.
Each following activation cycle of the EBL system will last 5 minutes.
The EBL system will be automatically turned off after an initial programmed time interval of about 10 minutes
as long as the ignition switch is in RUN. After the initial time interval has expired, if the rear window defogger
switch is pressed to the On position again during the same ignition cycle, the EBL system will automatically
turn off after about 5 minutes. The EBL system will automatically shut off if the ignition switch is turned to any
position other than RUN, or it can be turned off manually by pressing the rear window defogger switch a second
time.
The rear window defogger switch is diagnosed using a scan tool (refer to HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING - ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS for more information).
The rear window defogger switch and indicator cannot be adjusted or repaired and the A/C-heater control must
be replaced if inoperative or damaged. Refer to REMOVAL .
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2007 DRIVELINE Differential & Driveline - Nitro
2007 DRIVELINE
Differential & Driveline - Nitro
PROPELLER SHAFT
PROPELLER SHAFT
PROPELLER SHAFT VIBRATION
DRIVELINE VIBRATION
Drive Condition Possible Cause Correction
Propeller Shaft Noise 1. Undercoating or other foreign 1. Clean exterior of shaft and wash
material on shaft. with solvent.
2. Loose propeller shaft. 2. Install new screws and tighten
to proper torque.
3. Loose or bent joint or excessive 3. Install new propeller shaft.
runout.
4. Incorrect driveline angularity. 4. Measure and correct driveline
angles.
5. Worn joint. 5. Install new propeller shaft
6. Propeller shaft damaged or out 6. Install new propeller shaft.
of balance.
7. Broken rear spring. 7. Install new rear spring.
8. Excessive runout or unbalanced 8. Re-index propeller shaft, test,
condition. and evaluate.
9. Excessive drive pinion gear 9. Re-index propeller shaft and
shaft runout. evaluate.
10. Excessive pinion flange 10. Inspect and replace propeller
deflection. shaft if necessary.
11. Excessive transfer case runout. 11. Inspect and repair as
necessary.
Joint Noise 1. Loose screws. 1. Install new screws and tighten
to proper torque.
2. Lack of lubrication. 2. Replace propeller shaft as
necessary.
A out of round tire or wheel that is out of balance, will cause a low frequency vibration.
Brake rotors that are unbalanced will cause a harsh, low frequency vibration.
Driveline vibration can be caused by loose or damaged engine mounts.
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Propeller shaft vibration increases with vehicle speed. A vibration that occurs at a specific speed is not usually
caused by a out of balance propeller shaft. Worn universal joints or an incorrect propeller shaft angle, can cause
such a vibration.
BALANCE
Fig. 1: Identifying Propeller Shaft & Flange

NOTE: Indexing the propeller shaft (1) 90° relative to the flange (2) may eliminate some
vibrations.
Fig. 2: Identifying Screw Clamp & Propeller Shaft

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2. Clean all the foreign material from the propeller shaft and universal joints.
3. Inspect propeller shaft for missing balance weights, broken welds, and bent areas.
NOTE: If the propeller shaft is bent, it must be replaced.
4. Inspect joints for wear, proper installation and correct alignment with the shaft.
5. Remove wheels and tires and install wheel lug nuts to retain brake drums/rotors.
6. Mark and number the shaft six inches from the pinion flange end at four positions 90 degrees apart.
7. Run and accelerate the vehicle until vibration occurs. Note the intensity and speed the vibration occurred.
Stop the engine.
8. Position one screw clamp (1) on the propeller shaft (2) at one of the 90 degree marks.
9. Start the engine and check for vibration. If there is little or no change in vibration, move the clamp to the
next mark. Repeat the vibration test. If there is no difference in vibration at the other positions, the source
of the vibration may not be propeller shaft.
Fig. 3: Identifying Second Clamp & Propeller Shaft

10. If vibration is decreased, install a second clamp (1) in the same position on the propeller shaft (2) and
repeat the test.
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Fig. 4: Separating Clamps 1/4 Inch

11. If the additional clamp causes an additional vibration, separate the clamps (1) 1/4 inch above and below
the mark. Repeat the vibration test.
12. Increase distance between the clamps and repeat the test until the amount of vibration is at the lowest
level. Bend the slack end of the clamps so the screws will not loosen.
13. If vibration remains unacceptable, repeat the procedure to the front end of the propeller shaft.
14. Install wheel and tires, and lower vehicle.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
PROPELLER SHAFT
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Fig. 5: Identifying Yoke Bearing Cap & Inclinometer

This procedure applies to the front and rear propeller shaft. To obtain front (output) angle on the C/V front
propeller shaft, place Inclinometer 7663 on the machined ring of the pinion flange. To obtain propeller shaft
angle measurement transfer case C/V front propeller shaft, place inclinometer on the propeller shaft tube.
1. Raise and support the vehicle at the axles as level as possible. Allow the wheels and propeller shaft to
turn.
2. Rotate shaft until transmission/transfer case output yoke bearing cap is facing downward.
NOTE: Always make measurements from front to rear and from the same side of
the vehicle.
3. Place inclinometer (2) on yoke bearing cap (1) or pinion flange ring parallel to the shaft. Center bubble in
sight glass and record measurement. This measurement will give you the transmission or Output Yoke
Angle (A).
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Fig. 6: Identifying Yoke Bearing Cap & Inclinometer

4. Rotate propeller shaft 90 degrees and place inclinometer (2) on yoke bearing cap (1) or propeller shaft
tube on C/V propeller shaft, parallel to the shaft. Center bubble in sight glass and record measurement.
This measurement can also be taken at the rear end of the shaft. This measurement will give you the
propeller shaft angle (C).
5. Subtract smaller figure from larger (C minus A) to obtain transmission output operating angle.
Fig. 7: Identifying Pinion Yoke Bearing Cap & Inclinometer

6. Rotate propeller shaft 90 degrees and place inclinometer (2) on pinion yoke bearing cap (1) parallel to the
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shaft. Center bubble in sight glass and record measurement. This measurement will give you the pinion
shaft or input yoke angle (B).
7. Subtract smaller figure from larger (C minus B) to obtain axle Input Operating Angle.
RULES
Good cancellation of U-joint operating angles is within 1 degree.
Operating angles less than 4 degrees single cardan U-joint.
Operating angles less than 10 degrees for CV joints.
SPECIFICATIONS
PROPELLER SHAFT
Front Shaft - Transfer
30 22 -
case CV Bolts
Front Shaft - Axle Flange
108 80 -
Bolts
Rear Shaft - Flange Bolts 108 80 -
SPECIAL TOOLS
PROPELLER SHAFT
Fig. 8: Inclinometer 7663

SHAFT-PROPELLER FRONT
REMOVAL
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Fig. 9: Identifying Front Propeller Shaft CV Joint & Transfer Case Flange
1. With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on hoist.

2. Mark an installation reference line across the front propeller shaft CV joint (1) and transfer case flange
(2).
Fig. 10: Identifying Front Propeller Shaft Flange & Axle Flange
3. Mark an installation reference line across the front propeller shaft flange (1) and the axle flange (2).
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Fig. 11: Removing Axle Flange Bolts

4. Remove the axle flange (1) bolts (2).
Fig. 12: Removing CV Joint Bolts And Retainers

5. Remove the CV joint bolts (1) and retainers (2).

6. Compress the propeller shaft enough to remove the shaft from the flanges.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 13: Aligning Installation Reference Marks On Transfer Case Flange Front Shaft CV Joint
NOTE: Clean all propeller shaft bolts and apply Mopar® Lock & Seal Adhesive or
equivalent to the threads before installation.
1. Compress the propeller shaft enough to install the shaft into the axle and transfer case flanges.
2. Align installation reference marks on the transfer case flange (1) front shaft CV joint (2).
Fig. 14: Installing CV Joint Retainers And Bolts

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3. Install CV joint retainers (2) and bolts (1). Tighten bolts to 30 N.m (22 ft. lbs.).
4. Align installation reference marks on the front propeller shaft flange (1) and axle flange (2).
Fig. 16: Installing Axle Flange Bolts

5. Install the axle flange (1) bolts (2) and tighten to 108 N.m (80 ft. lbs.).
SHAFT-PROPELLER REAR
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REMOVAL
REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
Fig. 17: Identifying Line Across Axle Flange & Propeller Shaft Flange

2. Mark a reference line across axle flange (1) and propeller shaft flange (2) for installation.
Fig. 18: Identifying Line Across Transmission/Transfer Case Flange & Propeller Shaft Flange
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3. Mark a reference line across transmission/transfer case flange (1) and propeller shaft flange (2) for
installation.
Fig. 19: Identifying Propeller Shaft Flange & Axle Flange

4. Remove propeller shaft flange (1) bolts from axle flange (2).

5. Remove propeller shaft flange (1) bolts from transmission/transfer case flange (2).
6. Remove propeller shaft.
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INSTALLATION
REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
Fig. 21: Identifying Axle Flange & Propeller Shaft Flange

NOTE: Clean all propeller shaft bolts and apply Mopar® Lock & Seal Adhesive or
1. Install propeller shaft.

2. Align reference mark on axle flange (1) with propeller shaft flange (2).
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Fig. 22: Identifying Transmission/Transfer Case Flange & Propeller Shaft Flange
3. Align reference mark on transmission/transfer case flange (1) with propeller shaft flange (2).
Fig. 23: Identifying Propeller Shaft Flange & Axle Flange

4. Install propeller shaft bolts (2) in axle flange (1) and tighten to 108 N.m (80 ft. lbs.).

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5. Install propeller shaft bolts in transmission/transfer case flange (2) and tighten to 108 N.m (80 ft. lbs.).
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION: Never grasp half shaft assembly by the boots. This may cause the boot to
pucker or crease and reduce the service life of the boot.
Avoid over angulating or stroking the C/V joints when handling the half
shaft.
Half shafts exposed to battery acid, transmission fluid, brake fluid,

differential fluid or gasoline may cause the boots to deteriorate. Failure to
follow these instructions will result in damage.
HALF SHAFT
Check inboard and outboard C/V joint for leaking grease. This is a sign of boot or boot clamp damage.
NOISE/VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise or vibration in turns could be caused by a damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint seal boot or
seal boot clamps. This will result in the loss/contamination of the joint grease, resulting in inadequate
lubrication of the joint. Noise could also be caused by another component of the vehicle coming in contact with
the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a damaged or worn C/V joint. A torn boot or loose/missing clamp on the inner/outer joint
which has allowed the grease to be lost will damage the C/V joint.
SHUDDER/VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This could be a worn/damaged inner tripod joint or a sticking tripod joint. Improper wheel alignment may also
cause a shudder or vibration.
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of out of balance front tires or tire/wheel runout. Foreign material (mud, etc.)
packed on the backside of the wheel(s) will also cause a vibration.
REMOVAL
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HALF SHAFT
Fig. 25: Identifying Hub Nut & Half Shaft


2. Remove brake caliper and rotor.
3. Remove nut (1) from half shaft (2).
Fig. 26: Identifying Sensor & Hub Bearing

4. Remove sensor (1) from hub bearing (2).

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Fig. 27: Identifying Tie Rod End & Steering Knuckle

5. Remove stabilizer link from stabilizer bar.

6. Remover tie rod end (1) nut and remove tie rod from steering knuckle (2).
Fig. 28: Identifying Shocks Clevis & Nuts

7. Remove clevis bracket (1) lower nut (2) and bolt.
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Fig. 29: Identifying Half Shaft & Knuckle

8. Remove upper ball joint nut and separate upper control arm from steering knuckle.
9. Pull out on the steering knuckle and push half shaft (1) out of the hub bearing and knuckle (2).
10. With a pry bar remove the half shaft from the axle.
INSTALLATION
HALF SHAFT

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1. Apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease on the female splines of the inner C/V joint.
2. Clean hub bearing bore and apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease.
3. Install half shaft (1) in axle and push firmly to engage the snap ring.
4. Pull out on the steering knuckle (2) and push the half shaft (1) through the knuckle and hub bearing.
5. Install upper control arm on steering knuckle and tighten ball joint nut to specifications.

6. Align clevis (1) with lower control arm. Install lower clevis (1) and tighten nut (2) to specifications.

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7. Install tie rod end (1) in steering knuckle (2) and tighten nut to specifications.
8. Install stabilizer bar link and tie rod end.

9. Install half shaft (2) hub nut (1) and tighten to specifications.
SPECIFICATIONS
HALF SHAFT
Half Shaft Nut 136 100 -
SPECIAL TOOLS
HALF SHAFT
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Fig. 34: Clamp Installer C-4975-A

JOINT/BOOT-C/V OUTER
REMOVAL
C/V JOINT-OUTER
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Fig. 35: Boot Clamp Locations

1. Place shaft in vise with soft jaws and support C/V joint.
CAUTION: Do not damage C/V housing or half shaft.
2. Remove clamps (2) (4) with a cut-off wheel or grinder.
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Fig. 36: Spreading Snap Ring And Slide Joint Off Shaft
3. Slide the boot down the shaft.

4. Remove lubricant to expose the C/V joint snap ring.
5. Spread snap ring (1) and slide the joint off the shaft.
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Fig. 37: Marking Alignment Marks On Inner Race/Hub, Bearing Cage And Housing With Dabs Of
Paint
6. Slide boot off the shaft and discard old boot.

7. Mark alignment marks (1) on the inner race/hub (2), bearing cage (3) and housing with dabs of paint.
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Fig. 38: Removing Ball From Bearing Cage

8. Clamp C/V joint in a vertical position in a soft jawed vise.

9. Press down one side of the bearing cage (3) to gain access to the ball at the opposite side.
NOTE: If joint is tight, use a hammer and brass drift to loosen the bearing hub. Do
not contact the bearing cage with the drift.
10. Remove ball (4) from the bearing cage (3).
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Fig. 39: Lifting Cage/Inner Race Upward And Out From Housing
11. Repeat step above until all six balls are removed from the bearing cage.
12. Lift cage and inner race (2) upward and out from the housing (1).
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Fig. 40: Turning Inner Race 90° In Cage And Rotating Inner Race/Hub Out Of Cage
13. Turn inner race 90° in the cage and rotate the inner race/hub out of the cage.
INSTALLATION
C/V JOINT-OUTER
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Fig. 41: Inserting Inner Race Into Cage And Rotate Race Into Cage
1. Apply a light coat of grease to the C/V joint components before assembling them.
2. Align inner race, cage and housing according to the alignment reference marks.
3. Insert inner race (1) into the cage (2) and rotate race into the cage.
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Fig. 42: Rotating Inner Race/Hub In Cage

4. Rotate inner race/hub in the cage (1).
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Fig. 43: Inserting Cage Into Housing

5. Insert cage into the housing (3).
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Fig. 44: Rotating Cage Into Housing

6. Rotate cage 90° into the housing (1).
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Fig. 45: Tilting Inner Race/Hub And Cage And Installing Balls
7. Apply lubricant included with replacement boot/joint to the ball races. Spread lubricant equally between
all the races.
8. Tilt inner race/hub (2) and cage (3) and install the balls (4).
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Fig. 46: Pushing Joint Onto Shaft Until Snap Ring Seats In Groove
9. Place new clamps onto new boot and slide boot onto the shaft to its original position.
10. Apply the rest of lubricant to the C/V joint and boot.
11. Push the joint onto the shaft until the snap ring (1) seats in the groove (3). Pull on the joint to verify the
span ring has engaged.
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Fig. 47: Securing Both Boot Clamps With Clamp Installer C-4975A
12. Position boot on the joint in its original position. Ensure boot is not twisted and remove any excess air.
13. Secure both boot clamps (2) (4) with Clamp Installer C-4975A. Place tool on clamp bridge and tighten
tool until the jaws of the tool are closed.
JOINT/BOOT-C/V INNER
REMOVAL
C/V JOINT-INNER
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Fig. 48: Identifying C/V Joint & Boot

1. Clamp shaft in a vise (with soft jaws) and support C/V joint (1).
2. Remove clamps with a cut-off wheel or grinder.
3. Slide boot down (2) the shaft.
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Fig. 49: Removing Lubricant From Housing To Expose C/V Snap Ring And Removing Snap Ring
4. Remove lubricant from housing (1) to expose the C/V snap ring (2) and remove snap ring.
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Fig. 50: Identifying Cage, Inner Race, Shaft & Bearings

5. Remove bearings (4) from the cage (1).

6. Rotate cage (1) 30° and slide cage off the inner race (2) and down the shaft (3).
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Fig. 51: Removing Spread Inner Race Snap Ring And Race From Shaft
7. Remove spread inner race (1) snap ring (4) and remove race (1) from the shaft (3).
8. Remove boot from the shaft and discard.
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Fig. 52: Cleaning/Inspecting Housing, Cage, Bearings, Housing Snap-Ring, Inner Race Snap-Ring
And Inner Race For Wear Or Damage
9. Clean and inspect housing (1), cage (2), bearings (3), housing snap-ring (4), inner race snap-ring (5) and
inner race (6) for wear or damage.
INSTALLATION
C/V JOINT-INNER
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Fig. 53: Sliding Cage Onto Shaft With Small Diameter End Towards Boot
1. Apply a coat of grease supplied with the joint/boot to the C/V joint components before assembling them.
2. Place new clamps on the new boot and slide boot down the shaft.
3. Slide cage (2) onto the shaft (1) with the small diameter (3) end towards the boot.
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Fig. 54: Installing Inner Race Onto Shaft

4. Install the inner race (1) onto the shaft (3). Pull on the race to verify snap ring has engaged.
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Fig. 55: Aligning Cage With Inner Race And Sliding Over Race
5. Align cage (1) with the inner race (2) and slide over the race.
6. Turn the cage 30° to align the cage windows (4) with the race (2).
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Fig. 56: Identifying Housing, Bearing Assembly, Housing Snap Ring & Housing Bore
7. Apply grease to the inner race and bearings and install the bearings.
8. Apply grease to the housing bore (4) then install the bearing assembly (2) into the housing (1).
9. Install the housing snap ring (3) and verify it is seated in the groove.
10. Fill the housing and boot with the remaining grease.
11. Slide the boot onto the C/V housing into its original position. Ensure boot is not twisted and remove any
excess air.
12. Secure both boot clamps with Clamp Installer C-4975A. Place tool on clamp bridge and tighten tool until
the jaws of the tool are closed.
FRONT AXLE - 186FIA

FRONT AXLE - 186FIA

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GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant, incorrect backlash, tooth contact, worn/damaged gears
or the carrier housing not having the proper offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed range. The noise can also occur during a specific type of driving
condition. These conditions are acceleration, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then accelerate the
vehicle to the speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise
range. If the noise stops or changes greatly check for:
Insufficient lubricant
Incorrect ring gear backlash
Gear damage
Differential side and pinions gears, usually do not cause noise during straight-ahead driving, when the gears are
unloaded. The side gears are loaded during turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a snapping or a
knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
Bearing noise can be either a whining or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant high pitch noise, because it rotates at a faster rate. This noise changes with
vehicle speed. If noise is heard under a load, the rear pinion bearing is the source. If noise is heard during a
coast, the front pinion bearing is the source.
Differential bearings usually produce a low pitch noise. The differential bearing noise is constant and varies
only with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearing noise generally changes when the bearings are loaded. Turn vehicle sharply to the left and
the right during a road test. This will load and unload the bearings and change the noise level. If axle bearing
damage is slight, the noise is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 m.p.h.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by:
Worn U-joints/CV joint

Worn side-gear thrust washers
Worn pinion shaft bore
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually caused by:
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Damaged drive shaft

Missing drive shaft balance weight(s)
Worn or out-of-balance wheels
Loose wheel lug nuts
Loose/broken springs
Damaged axle shaft bearing(s)
Loose pinion gear nut
Excessive pinion yoke run out
Bent axle shaft(s)
Check for loose or damaged front-end components or engine/transmission mounts. These components can
contribute to what appears to be an axle vibration. Also look at engine accessories, brackets and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be examined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted into gear or the clutch engaged, can be caused by:
High engine idle speed

Transmission shift operation
Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts
Loose spring mounts
Loose pinion gear nut and yoke
Excessive ring gear backlash
Excessive side gear to case clearance
To determined the source of a snap/clunk noise, raise vehicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Have a
helper shift the transmission into gear and listen for the noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Worn wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as
necessary.
3. End-play in pinion bearings. 3. Refer to pinion pre-load
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information and correct as

necessary.
4. Excessive gear backlash 4. Check adjustment of the ring
between the ring gear and pinion. gear and pinion backlash. Correct
as necessary.
5. Improper adjustment of pinion 5. Adjust the pinion bearings pre-
gear bearings. load.
6. Loose pinion yoke nut. 6. Tighten the pinion yoke nut.
7. Scuffed gear tooth contact 7. Inspect and replace as
surfaces. necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2. Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and
inspect and repair clutch as
necessary.
Differential Cracked 1. Improper adjustment of the 1. Replace case and inspect gears
differential bearings. and bearings for further damage.
Set differential bearing pre-load
properly.
2. Excessive ring gear backlash. 2. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Set ring gear backlash properly.
3. Vehicle overloaded. 3. Replace case and inspect gears
Avoid excessive vehicle weight.
4. Erratic clutch operation. 4. Replace case and inspect gears
Avoid erratic use of clutch.
Differential Gears Scored 1. Insufficient lubrication. 1. Replace scored gears. Fill
differential with the correct fluid
type and quantity.
2. Improper grade of lubricant. 2. Replace scored gears. Fill
type and quantity.
3. Excessive spinning of one 3. Replace scored gears. Inspect
wheel/tire. all gears, pinion bores, and shaft
for damage. Service as necessary.
Loss Of Lubricant 1. Lubricant level too high. 1. Drain lubricant to the correct
level.
2. Worn axle shaft seals. 2. Replace seals.
3. Cracked differential housing. 3. Repair as necessary.
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4. Worn pinion seal. 4. Replace seal.

5. Worn/scored yoke. 5. Replace yoke and seal.
6. Axle cover not properly sealed. 6. Remove, clean and seal cover.
Axle Overheating 1. Lubricant level low. 1. Fill differential to correct level.
2. Improper grade of lubricant. 2. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
3. Bearing pre-loads too high. 3. Adjust bearing pre-loads.
4. Insufficient ring gear backlash. 4. Adjust ring gear backlash.
Gear Teeth Broke 1. Overloading. 1. Replace gears. Examine other
gears and bearings for possible
damage.
2. Erratic clutch operation. 2. Replace gears and examine the
remaining parts for damage.
Avoid erratic clutch operation.
3. Ice-spotted pavement. 3. Replace gears and examine
4. Improper adjustments. 4. Replace gears and examine
Ensure ring gear backlash is
correct.
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
2. Improper ring gear and pinion 2. Check ring gear and pinion
adjustment. contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and 3. Replace gears with a matched
pinion. ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear or 4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing pre-
load.
7. Ring gear run-out. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap 8. Inspect differential components
bolts. and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
to specifications.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
REMOVAL
FRONT AXLE - 186FIA
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Fig. 57: Identifying Differential Housing & Drain Plug


2. Remove skid plate.
3. Remove differential housing (3) drain plug (2) and drain fluid.
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4. Mark front propeller shaft (1) and pinion flange (2) for installation reference. Remove propeller shaft
from pinion flange.

5. Remove hub nuts (1) from half shafts (2).
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Fig. 60: Identifying Stabilizer Bar Link & Bolts

6. Remove stabilizer bar link (1) bolts (2) from lower control arm.

7. Remove shocks clevis (1) nut (2) and bolt.
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8. Remove tie rod end (1) nuts and separate ends from the steering knuckles (2).
Fig. 63: Identifying Upper Ball Joint Nuts & Steering Knuckles
9. Remove upper ball joint nuts (1) from steering knuckles (2) and separate ball joints from steering
knuckles (2).
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10. Pull out on the steering knuckles (2) and push the half shaft (1) out of the knuckles.
11. With a pry bar remove the half shafts (1) from the axle.
Fig. 65: Identifying Oil Filter Drain Tray & Vent Hose
12. Remove oil filter drain tray (1) and vent hose (2) from differential cover.
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Fig. 66: Identifying Front Axle Bracket Cradle Nut & Front Axle Bracket Bolts
13. Support axle with a lift/jack.

14. Remove front axle bracket nut and bolt (1) from crossmember. Remove front axle bracket nuts and bolts
(2) from axle housing and remove bracket.
Fig. 67: Identifying Nut/Bolt & Right Axle

15. Remove nut and bolt (1) from right axle (2) bracket.
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Fig. 68: Identifying Bolts & Rear Axle Bracket

16. Remove bolts (1) from rear axle bracket (2).

17. Lower axle and from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
FRONT AXLE - 186FIA
Fig. 69: Identifying Bolts & Rear Axle Bracket

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1. Lift axle into vehicle.

2. Install bolts (1) in rear axle bracket (1) and tighten to 88 N.m (65 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 70: Identifying Nut/Bolt & Right Axle

3. Install bolt (1) and nut in right axle (2) bracket and tighten to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
4. Install oil filter drain tray (1) and vent hose (2) on differential cover.
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5. Install front axle bracket, bolts (2) and nuts on axle housing. Install front axle bracket bolt (1) and nut in
front crossmember. Tighten front axle bracket nuts to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).

6. Install half shafts (1) into axle and steering knuckle (2) and hub bearing.
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Fig. 74: Identifying Upper Ball Joint Nuts & Steering Knuckles
7. Install upper ball joint into steering knuckles (2) and tighten nuts (1) to specifications.

8. Install tie rod ends (1) on steering knuckles (2) and tighten to specifications.
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9. Align clevis (1) with lower control arm and install clevis bolts. Tighten clevis and nuts (2) to
specifications.
Fig. 77: Identifying Stabilizer Bar Link & Bolts

10. Install stabilizer bar links (1) and tighten bolts (2) to specifications.
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11. Install new half shaft (2) hub nuts (1) and tighten to 136 N.m (100 ft. lbs.).
12. Install propeller shaft with reference marks (1, 2) aligned.
NOTE: Clean propeller shaft bolts and apply Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive or
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13. Install propeller shaft bolts and tighten to specifications.

14. Fill differential with gear lubricant.
15. Install skid plate, if equipped.
ADJUSTMENTS
FRONT AXLE - 186FIA
Fig. 80: Pinion Gear ID Numbers

Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched sets. Gear match numbers (3) for the ring and pinion gear are
etched onto each gear. A plus (+) number, minus (-) number or zero (0) is etched into the face of the pinion gear
(2). This number is the amount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth varies from the standard depth setting of a
pinion etched with a (0).
If installing a new gear, note the depth variance number of the original and replacement pinion. The numbers
represent thousands of an inch deviation from the standard. Add or subtract this number from the original depth
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shim/oil slinger to compensate for the difference in the depth variances. If the number is negative, add that
value to the required thickness of the depth shims. If the number is positive, subtract that value from the
thickness of the depth shim.
Compensation for pinion depth variance is achieved with a select shim/oil slinger. The shims are placed
between the rear pinion bearing and pinion gear head.
Pinion Gear Depth Variance Chart : Note where Old and New Pinion Marking columns intersect.
Intersecting figure represents plus or minus the amount needed.
PINION GEAR DEPTH VARIANCE

Original Pinion Gear Replacement Pinion Gear Depth Variance
Depth Variance -4 -3 -2 -1 0 +1 +2 +3 +4
+4 +0.008 +0.007 +0.006 +0.005 +0.004 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0
+3 +0.007 +0.006 +0.005 +0.004 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001
+2 +0.006 +0.005 +0.004 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002
+1 +0.005 +0.004 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003
0 +0.004 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003 -0.004
-1 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003 -0.004 -0.005
-2 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003 -0.004 -0.005 -0.006
-3 +0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003 -0.004 -0.005 -0.006 -0.007
-4 0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003 -0.004 -0.005 -0.006 -0.007 -0.008
PINION DEPTH MEASUREMENT
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Fig. 81: Pinion Gear Depth Tools

Measurements are taken with pinion bearing cups and pinion bearings installed in the housing. Take
measurements with Pinion Gauge Set and Dial Indicator C-3339A (1).
1. Assemble Pinion Height Block 6739 (3), Pinion Block 8804 (6) and rear pinion bearing onto Screw 6741
(5).
2. Insert height gauge components into the housing through pinion bearing cups.
3. Install front pinion bearing and Cone-nut 6740 (4) onto the screw. Tighten Cone-Nut until Torque To
Rotate screw is 1.7 N.m (15 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 82: Positioning Arbor Discs 6927A And Arbor D-115-3 Into Housing Bearing Cradles
4. Position Arbor Discs 6927A (1) and Arbor D-115-3 (2) into the housing bearing cradles.
Fig. 83: Installing Differential Bearing Caps On Arbor Discs And Tightening Bolts
5. Install differential bearing caps (1) on Arbor Discs and tighten bolts (2) to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 84: Identifying Dial Indicator, Scooter Block & Arbor

6. Assemble Dial Indicator C-3339A into Scooter Block D-115-2 and secure set screw.
7. Position Dial Indicator (1) with Scooter Block (2) flush on the pinion height block. Hold scooter block
and zero the dial indicator.
8. Slowly slide the scooter block (2) across the pinion block over to the arbor (3). Move the scooter block
till the dial indicator probe crests the arbor (3) and record the highest reading.
9. Select a shim equal to the dial indicator reading plus or minus the pinion depth variance number on the
face of the pinion. For example: If the depth variance is -2, add 0.002 in. to the dial indicator reading. If
the depth variance is +2, subtract 0.002 in. from the dial indicator reading.
DIFFERENTIAL SIDE BEARING PRELOAD AND GEAR BACKLASH
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Fig. 85: Shim Locations

Differential bearing preload and gear backlash is achieved with selective shims (2) (4) located between the
differential bearing cups and differential housing. Shim thickness is determined using Dummy Bearings D-348
and Dummy Shims 8107 in place of the differential side bearings and preload shims.
Before measuring differential bearing preload and gear backlash, pinion gear depth must be established and
pinion gear prepared for installation. Pinion gear depth is essential to establishing gear backlash and tooth
contact patterns.
PRELOAD SHIM SELECTION
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Fig. 86: Identifying Dummy Bearings D-348 & Dummy Shims 8107
1. Remove differential side bearings from differential case.

2. Install ring gear on differential case and tighten bolts to specification.
3. Install Dummy Bearings D-348 (1) on differential case.
4. Install differential case in the housing.
5. Record thickness of Dummy Shims 8107 (2) then install shims between dummy bearings and differential
housing.
NOTE: Each dummy shim is 3 mm (0.118 in.) thick.
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Fig. 87: Identifying Bearing Caps & Snug Bearing Cap Bolts
6. Install bearing caps (1) in their correct positions and snug bearing cap bolts (3).
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Fig. 88: Identifying Dead-Blow Hammer & Housing

7. With a dead-blow hammer (1), seat differential dummy bearing to pinion side of the housing (2).
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Fig. 89: Seat Dummy Bearing Ring Gear Side

8. With a dead-blow hammer (2), seat differential dummy bearing to ring gear (3) side of the housing (1).
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Fig. 90: Identifying Pinion Gear Side, Pilot Stud C-3288-B & Dial Indicator C-3339A
9. Thread Pilot Stud C-3288-B (2) into rear cover bolt hole below ring gear.
10. Attach a Dial Indicator C-3339A (3) to the Pilot Stud. Position the dial indicator plunger on flat surface
between the ring gear bolts.
11. Push and hold differential case to pinion gear side (1) of the housing and zero dial indicator.
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Fig. 91: Identifying Record Dial Indicator & Housing

12. Push and hold differential case to ring gear side of the housing (2) and record dial indicator (1) reading.
13. Add dummy shims thickness 6 mm (0.236 in.) plus preload specification 0.152 mm (0.006 in.) to the dial
indicator reading. This is the total shim thickness needed to preload the new bearings when the
differential is installed.
EXAMPLE: Differential Dial Indicator Reading + Dummy Shims 6 mm (0.236 in.) + Preload
Specification 0.152 mm (0.006 in.) = Total Differential Shim
14. Rotate dial indicator out of the way on the pilot stud.
15. Remove differential case and dummy bearings from the housing.
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Fig. 92: Pinion Rotation Torque & Inch Pound Torque Wrench
16. Install pinion gear in the housing. Install the pinion flange (1) and establish pinion torque to rotate with an
inch pound torque wrench (2).
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17. Install differential case and Dummy Bearings D-348 in the housing.
18. Install a single dummy shim in the ring gear side. Install bearing caps (1) and tighten bearing cap bolts (3)
snug.
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Fig. 94: Identifying Dial Indicator, Pinion Gear & Ring Gear
19. Seat ring gear side dummy bearing.

20. Position the dial indicator (1) plunger on a flat surface between the ring gear (3) bolt heads.
21. Push and hold differential case toward pinion gear (2) and zero dial indicator (1).
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Fig. 95: Identifying Ring Gear Side Dial Indicator, Differential Case & Ring Gear Side
22. Push and hold differential case (2) to ring gear side (3) of the housing and record ring gear side dial
indicator (1) reading. Add 3 mm (0.118 in.) one dummy shim thickness to ring gear side reading.
23. Subtract backlash specification 0.076 mm (0.003 in.) from total ring gear side reading for ring gear
backlash. This is the shim needed on the ring gear side of the differential.
EXAMPLE: Ring Gear Side Dial Indicator Reading + One Dummy Shim 3 mm (0.118 in.) - Backlash
Specification 0.076 mm (0.003 in.) = Ring Gear Side Shim
24. Subtract ring gear shim total from preload shim total thickness. The remainder is the shim thickness
needed on the pinion side of the differential.
EXAMPLE : Total Differential Shim - Ring Gear Side Shim = Pinion Gear Side Shim
25. Rotate dial indicator out of the way on pilot stud.

26. Remove differential case and dummy bearings from the housing.
27. Install side bearings and cups on differential case.
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Fig. 96: Identifying Spreader W-129-B & Spreader Retainers W-129-1

28. Install Spreader Adapters 9959, Spreader W-129-B (1) and Spreader Retainers W-129-1 (2) on housing
tighten spreader turnbuckle finger-tight.
29. Attach Dial Indicator C-3339 to spreader retainer stud. Load indicator plunger against opposite side of the
housing and zero the indicator
30. Spread the differential case 0.34 mm (0.013 in).
CAUTION: Never spread the differential housing over 0.34 mm (0.013 in). Failure
to follow these instruction could result in distorting the housing.
31. Install differential case with shims.
GEAR BACKLASH
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Fig. 97: Identifying Indicator Plunger & Ring Gear Tooth

1. Rotate the differential case several times to seat the side bearings.
2. Position the indicator plunger (1) against a ring gear tooth (2).
3. Push and hold ring gear upward while not allowing the pinion gear to rotate.
4. Zero dial indicator face to pointer.
5. Push and hold ring gear downward while not allowing the pinion gear to rotate. Dial indicator reading
(backlash ) should be between 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.).
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Fig. 98: Backlash Shim Correction

NOTE: If backlash is not within specifications, transfer the necessary shim

thickness from one side of the housing to the other.
6. Verify differential case and ring gear runout by measuring ring to pinion gear backlash at eight locations
around the ring gear. Readings should not vary more than 0.05 mm (0.002 in.). If readings vary more than
specified, the ring gear or the differential case is defective.
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After the proper backlash is achieved, perform Gear Contact Pattern Analysis procedure.
GEAR CONTACT PATTERN
Fig. 99: Gear Description

The ring gear and pinion teeth contact patterns will show if the pinion depth is correct in the housing. It will
also show if the ring gear backlash has been adjusted correctly. The backlash can be adjusted within
specifications to achieve desired tooth contact patterns.
The TOP LAND (1) of the gear tooth is the top surface of the tooth. The PROFILE (2) of the gear tooth is the
depth of the tooth. The TOE (3) of the gear is the portion of the tooth surface at the end towards the center. The
HEEL (4) of the gear is the portion of the tooth at the outer-end. The ROOT (5) of the gear tooth is the lowest
portion of the tooth.
NOTE: If the PROFILE across the tooth is the same it is a 3 Axis cut gear. If the
PROFILE across the tooth is tapered, it is a 2 Axis cut gear.
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1. Apply a thin coat of hydrated ferric oxide or equivalent to the drive and coast side of the ring gear teeth.
2. Wrap, twist and hold a shop towel around the pinion yoke to increase the turning resistance of the pinion.
This will provide a more distinct contact pattern.
3. With a boxed end wrench on a ring gear bolt, rotate the differential case one complete revolution in both
directions while a load is being applied from shop towel.
The areas on the ring gear teeth with the greatest degree of contact against the pinion teeth will squeegee the
compound to the areas with the least amount of contact. Note and compare patterns on the ring gear teeth to
Gear Tooth Contact Patterns chart and adjust pinion depth and gear backlash as necessary.
Fig. 100: Pattern Interpretation (Gear Cut 2 Axis)

DIFFERENTIAL BEARING PRELOAD CHECK
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With an inch pound torque wrench (2) measure Total Torque To Rotate (TTTR). This is the final check on the
differential assembly before installing the axle shafts. This will verify the correct differential bearing preload.
Total Torque to Rotate is, Pinion Torque To Rotate (PTTR) plus:
Gear Ratio 3.21: 0.34 - 1.24 N.m (3 - 10.9 in. lbs.)

Gear Ratio 3.55: 0.48 - 0.78 N.m (4.2 - 6.9 in. lbs.)
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NOTE: If TTTR is high, decrease the shim thickness equally on both sides of the
differential and check TTTR again. If TTTR is low, increase the shims thickness
equally on both sides of the differential and check TTTR again.
SPECIFICATIONS
FRONT AXLE - 186FIA
AXLE SPECIFICATIONS
Axle Ratio 3.21/3.55/3.73
Ring Gear Diameter 186 mm (7.33 in.)
0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 -
Ring Gear Backlash
0.008 in.)
Pinion Torque To Rotate:
1 - 2.2 N.m (10 - 20 in. lbs.)
Original Bearings
Pinion Torque To Rotate: 1.7 - 2.8 N.m (15 - 25 in.
New Bearings lbs.)
Total Torque To Rotate is Pinion Torque To Rotate plus: -
0.53 - 0.87 N.m (4.6 - 7.7 in.
Gear Ratio 3.21
lbs.)
0.48 - 0.78 N.m (4.2 - 6.9 in.
Gear Ratio 3.55
lbs.)
0.45 - 0.75 N.m (3.9 - 6.6 in.
Gear Ratio 3.73
lbs.)
Ring Gear Bolts 108 80 -
Differential Bearing Cap
54 - 68 39 - 50 -
Bolts
Drain Trough Nut 23 - 200
Differential Cover Bolts 19 - 26 14 - 19 -
Pinion Nut 217 - 352 160 - 260 -
Rear Axle Bracket Bolts 88 65 -
Front Axle Brackets To
61 45 -
Frame Nut
Front Axle Bracket to
61 45 -
Axle Nuts
Right Axle Bracket Nut 61 45 -
SPECIAL TOOLS
FRONT AXLE - 186FIA

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Fig. 102: Puller C-293-PA

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Fig. 103: Adapter C-293-39

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Fig. 104: Adapter C-293-42

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Fig. 105: Flange Holder C-3281

Fig. 106: Pilot Stud C-3288-B

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Fig. 108: Installer C-3716-A

Fig. 109: Slide Hammer C-3752

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Fig. 111: Installer C-4308

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Fig. 112: Puller C-452


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Fig. 114: Installer D-146

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Fig. 115: Remover D-149

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Fig. 116: Dummy Bearings D-348

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Fig. 117: Plug SP-3289

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Fig. 118: Spreader W-129-B

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Fig. 119: Installer W-162-D

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Fig. 120: Installer 6448

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Fig. 121: Pinion Depth Set 6774

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Fig. 122: Arbor Discs 6927A

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Fig. 123: Remover 7794-A

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Fig. 124: Dummy Shims 8107

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Fig. 125: Remover 8420A

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Fig. 127: Pinion Block 8804

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Fig. 130: Remover/Installer 9958

Fig. 131: Adapters 9959
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COVER-DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
COVER-DIFFERENTIAL
Fig. 132: Identifying Differential Housing & Drain Plug


2. Remove skid plate.
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3. Remove drain plug (2) from housing (3) and drain fluid.
4. Remove oil filter drain tray (1) and vent hose from differential cover.
5. Loosen front axle bracket bolt (1).

6. Remove front axle bracket bolts (2) from the axle and let bracket hang forward of the axle.
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7. Remove differential cover bolts and remove cover.
INSTALLATION
COVER-DIFFERENTIAL
Fig. 135: Applying Bead Of Mopar Axle RTV Sealant To Differential Cover
1. Clean cover and mating surface.

2. Apply a bead of Mopar Axle RTV sealant (1) or equivalent to the differential cover (2).
CAUTION: If cover is not installed within 3 to 5 minutes, the cover must be

cleaned and new RTV applied. Failure to follow these instructions will
result in a leak.
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Fig. 136: Removing/Installing Differential Housing Cover

3. Install differential housing cover (1) and tighten bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 19-26 N.m (14-19 ft.
lbs.).
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4. Install oil filter drain tray (1) and tighten nut to 23 N.m (200 in. lbs.).
5. Install vent hose (2) on differential cover with new clamp.
6. Install front axle bracket bolts (2) and nuts. Tighten nuts to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
7. Tighten front axle bracket cradle nut (1) to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
8. Install skid plate.
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BUSHING-AXLE
REMOVAL
BUSHING-AXLE
CAUTION: Bushing must be installed in the original location ± 2 degrees. Failure to

follow these instruction will result in a NVH problem.
PINION NOSE BUSHING
Fig. 139: Marking Bushing Flange Flat Location On Axle For Installation Reference
1. Mark bushing flange flat location (1) on the axle for installation reference.
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Fig. 140: Removing Pinion Nose Bushing With Remover 9958-5 And Handle C-4171
2. Remove pinion nose bushing (1) with Remover 9958-5 (2) and Handle C-4171 (3). Drive bushing out
with a hammer.
AXLE TUBE BUSHING
Fig. 141: Marking Bushing Flange Flat Location On Axle For Installation Reference
1. Mark bushing flange flat location (1) on the axle for installation reference.
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Fig. 142: Identifying Bolt & Remover 9958-3

2. Bolt (1) Remover 9958-3 (2) to axle tube bushing. Drive bushing out with a hammer.
AXLE BRACKET BUSHING
Fig. 143: Identifying Bushing Flange Flat Location

1. Mark bushing flange flat location (1) on the axle bracket for installation reference.
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Fig. 144: Identifying Spacer 9958-1, Receiver 9958-6 & Remover 9958-5
2. Clamp Press C-4212F into vise.

3. Place Spacer 9958-1 (1) over bushing in the bracket. Press bushing out of the bracket into Receiver 9958-
6 (1) with Remover 9958-5 (3) and Press C-4212F.
INSTALLATION
BUSHING-AXLE
CAUTION: Bushing must be installed in the original location ± 2 degrees. Failure to

follow these instruction will result in damaging the bushing and a NVH
problem.
PINION NOSE BUSHING
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Fig. 145: Identifying Receiver 9958-2 & Flat Spots

1. Start bushing in axle housing with bushing reference mark aligned.

2. Center one of the Receiver 9958-2 (1) flat spots (2) under pinion for tool clearance.
Fig. 146: Installing Bushing With Installer 9958-3, Receiver 9958-2 And Press C-4212F
3. Install bushing (1) with Installer 9958-3 (2) Receiver 9958-2 (3) and Press C-4212F.
AXLE TUBE BUSHING
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Fig. 147: Installing Bushing With Installer 9958-3, Receiver 9958-2 And Press C4212F
1. Start bushing in axle tube with bushing reference mark aligned.

2. Center one of the Receiver 9958-2 (3) flat spots over the axle tube for tool clearance.
3. Install bushing (1) with Installer 9958-3 (2) Receiver 9958-2 (3) and Press C4212F.
AXLE BRACKET BUSHING
Fig. 148: Identifying Bushing, Receiver 9958-6, Spacer 9958-1 & Installer 9958-3
1. Start bushing in axle bracket with bushing reference mark aligned.

2. Install bushing (1) with Receiver 9958-6 (2) Spacer 9958-1 (3) position in bracket, Installer 9958-3 (4)
and Press C4212F. Press bushing through the first side of the bracket then remove Spacer 9958-1 (3).
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Verify bushing is aligned with the second side of the bracket. Installer Spacer 9958-1 (3) and press
bushing through the second side of the bracket.
SHAFT-AXLE
REMOVAL
SHAFT-AXLE
Fig. 149: Identifying Snap Ring, O-Ring And Shaft

1. Remove right half shaft from vehicle.

2. Remove O-ring (1) and snap ring (2) and from axle shaft (3).
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Fig. 150: Axle Shaft Puller

3. Assemble Remover 8420A blocks (3) with hammer threads (2) on snap ring groove (1) on right axle
shaft. Slide collar (4) over blocks and thread Slide Hammer C-3752.
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Fig. 151: Identifying Right Axle Shaft & Remover 8420A

4. Remove right axle shaft (1) with Remover 8420A (2) and Slide Hammer C-3752.
5. Slide axle shaft out of the axle tube.
INSTALLATION
SHAFT-AXLE
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Fig. 152: Identifying Snap Ring, O-Ring And Shaft

1. Lubricate bearing bore and seal lip with gear lubricant. Insert axle shaft through seal, bearing and engage
it into side gear splines.
NOTE: Use care to prevent shaft splines from damaging axle shaft seal.
2. Install O-ring (1) and snap ring (2) on axle shaft (3).
3. Push the axle shaft until the axle shaft snap-ring passes through the side gear.
4. Install right half shaft.
5. Check differential fluid level.
SEAL-AXLE SHAFT
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REMOVAL
SEAL-AXLE SHAFT

1. Remove haft shafts.

2. On the right side, remove axle shaft (1) with Remover 8420A (2) and Slide Hammer C-3752.
Fig. 154: Removing Shaft Seal From Axle With Remover 7794-A And Slide Hammer C-637
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3. Remove shaft seal (1) from axle with Remover 7794-A (2) and a Slide Hammer C-637.
INSTALLATION
SEAL-AXLE SHAFT
Fig. 155: Installing Shaft Seal With Installer 8806 And Handle C-4171
1. Apply a light coat of lubricant on the lip of the shaft seal.

2. Install new shaft seal with Installer 8806 (1) and Handle C-4171 (2).
3. Install right axle shaft and half shafts.
BEARING-AXLE
REMOVAL
BEARING-AXLE
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1. Remove haft shafts.

2. On the right side, remove axle shaft (1) with Remover 8420A (2) and Slide Hammer C-3752.
Fig. 157: Removing Shaft Seal From Axle With Remover 7794-A And Slide Hammer C-637
3. Remove shaft seal (1) with Remover 7794-A (2) and a Slide Hammer C-637.
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Fig. 158: Removing Shaft Bearing/Bushing With Remover 7794-A And Slide Hammer C-637
4. Remove shaft bearing/bushing (1) with Remover 7794-A (2) and a Slide Hammer C-637.
INSTALLATION
BEARING-AXLE
Fig. 159: Positioning Bearing/Bushing In Housing Bore

1. Position bearing/bushing (1) in the housing (2) bore.
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Fig. 160: Identifying Shaft Bearing/Bushing, Installer 8805 & Handle C-4171
2. Install shaft bearing/bushing (1) with large diameter end of Installer 8805 (2) and Handle C-4171 (3).
Drive bearing/bushing in flush with housing bore.
Fig. 161: Installing Shaft Seal With Installer 8806 And Handle C-4171
3. Apply a light coat of lubricant on the lip of the shaft seal.

4. Install new shaft seal in axle with Installer 8806 (1) and Handle C-4171 (2).
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SEAL-PINION
REMOVAL
SEAL-PINION
1. Remove brake calipers and rotors.

2. Remove propeller shaft.
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3. Rotate pinion gear several times and verify the pinion rotates smoothly.
4. Record pinion torque to rotate (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2).
Fig. 163: Holding Pinion Flange With Flange Holder C-3281

5. Hold pinion flange (1) with Flange Holder C-3281 (2) and remove pinion nut.
6. Mark a line on the pinion shaft and flange for installation reference.
Fig. 164: Removing Pinion Flange With Puller C-452 And Flange Holder C-3281
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7. Remove pinion flange with Puller C-452 (1) and Flange Holder C-3281 (2).
8. Remove pinion seal with a seal puller.
INSTALLATION
SEAL-PINION
Fig. 165: Identifying Installer 8681 & Handle C-4171

1. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal. Install with Installer 8681 (1) and Handle
C-4171 (2).
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Fig. 166: Identifying Installer W-162-D & Screw 8112

2. Position flange on the pinion shaft with the reference marks aligned.
3. Install flange with Installer W-162-D (1) and Screw 8112 (2).

4. Install a new nut on the pinion gear. Hold pinion flange (1) with Flange Holder C-3281 (2) and tighten
pinion nut to 217 N.m (160 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Do not exceed minimum tightening torque 217 N.m (160 ft. lbs.) at this
point.
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5. Rotate pinion several times and verify pinion rotates smoothly.

6. Measure pinion torque to rotate (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2). Pinion torque to rotating
should be equal to recorded reading plus 0.56 N.m (5 in. lbs.).
If rotating torque is low, tighten the pinion nut in 6.8 N.m (5 ft. lbs.) increments until proper rotating
torque is achieved.
CAUTION: If maximum tightening torque is reached 352 N.m (260 ft. lbs.) prior to
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reaching required rotating torque, the collapsible spacer may have

been damaged.
Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pinion rotating torque and never
exceed specified preload torque. Failure to follow these instructions
will result in damage.
7. Install brake rotors, calipers and propeller shaft.

8. Fill differential with gear lubricant.
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
DIFFERENTIAL
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Fig. 169: Removing/Installing Differential Housing Cover

1. Remove differential housing cover (1).
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2. Remove half shafts and remove right axle shaft (1) with Remover 8420A (2) and Slide Hammer C-3752.
Fig. 171: Removing/Installing Spreader Adapters 9959 On Differential Housing

3. Mark differential bearing caps for installation reference.

4. Loosen bearing cap bolts.
5. Install Spreader Adapters 9959 (1) on differential housing (2).
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Fig. 172: Installing Spreader W-129-B On Spreader Adapters 9959 And Tightening Spreader
Turnbuckle Finger-Tight
6. Install Spreader W-129-B (1) on Spreader Adapters 9959 (2) and tighten spreader turnbuckle finger-tight.
Fig. 173: Installing Spreader Retainers W-129-1 On Spreader Adapters 9959 And Across Spreader
7. Install Spreader Retainers W-129-1 (1) on Spreader Adapters 9959 (2) and across spreader.
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Fig. 174: Attaching Dial Indicator C-3339A To Spreader Retainer Stud And Loading Indicator
Plunger Against Opposite Side Of Housing
8. Attach Dial Indicator C-3339A (1) to spreader retainer stud. Load indicator plunger (2) against the
opposite side of the housing and zero the indicator
to follow these instructions will damage the housing.
Fig. 175: Holding Differential Case And Removing Bearing Cap Bolts/Bearing Caps
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10. Remove dial indicator.

11. Hold differential case and remove bearing cap bolts (1) and bearing caps (2).
Fig. 176: Removing/Installing Differential Case, Bearing Cups And Shims

12. Remove differential case (1), bearing cups (2) and shims from housing.
13. Tag differential bearing cups and shims to indicate location.
14. Remove spreader from housing.
DISASSEMBLY
DIFFERENTIAL
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Fig. 177: Identifying Differential Side Gears, Pinion Gears & Thrust Washers
1. Remove ring gear.

2. Remove roll-pin holding mate shaft in housing.
3. Remove pinion gear mate shaft.
4. Rotate differential side gears (2) and remove pinion gears (3) and thrust washers (1).
5. Remove differential side gears and thrust washers.
ASSEMBLY
DIFFERENTIAL
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Fig. 178: Identifying Differential Side Gears, Pinion Gears & Thrust Washers
1. Install differential side gears (2) and thrust washers.

2. Install pinion mate gears (3) and thrust washers (1).
3. Install pinion gear mate shaft.
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Fig. 179: Installing Roll-Pin In Differential Case With Hammer And Punch
4. Align hole in the pinion gear mate shaft (2) with the hole in the differential case.
5. Install the roll-pin (3) in the differential case with a hammer and punch (1). Peen the edge of the roll-pin
hole in the differential case in two places 180° apart.
6. Lubricate all differential components with gear lubricant.
7. Install ring gear.
INSTALLATION
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DIFFERENTIAL
Fig. 180: Identifying Spreader W-129-B & Spreader Retainers W-129-1

NOTE: If differential bearings or differential case are replaced, differential bearing

preload and gear backlash must be adjusted.
1. Install Spreader W-129-B (1) and Spreader Retainers W-129-1 (2) on Spreader Adapters 9959 and tighten
spreader turnbuckle finger-tight.
Fig. 181: Identifying Dial Indicator C-3339A & Indicator Plunger

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2. Attach Dial Indicator C-3339A (1) to spreader retainer stud. Load indicator plunger (2) against opposite
side of the housing and zero the indicator
to follow these instructions will damage the housing.
Fig. 182: Removing/Installing Differential Case, Bearing Cups And Shims

4. Remove dial indicator.

5. Install differential case (1) bearing cups (2) and shims into housing.
6. Install bearing caps and loosely install bolts.
7. Loosen turnbuckle remove spreader retainers and spreader.
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Fig. 183: Removing/Installing Spreader Adapters 9959 On Differential Housing

8. Remove spreader adapters (1) from differential housing (2).
9. Tighten bearing cap (1) bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 54-68 N.m (39-50 ft. lbs.).
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11. Install differential housing cover.
BEARING-DIFFERENTIAL CASE
REMOVAL
BEARINGS-DIFFERENTIAL CASE
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Fig. 185: Removing Bearings From Differential Case With Puller C-293-PA, Adapters C-293-48 And
Plug SP-3289
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1. Remove differential from the housing.

2. Remove bearings (3) from the differential case (4) with Puller C-293-PA (1), Adapters C-293-48 (2) and
Plug SP-3289 (5).
INSTALLATION
Fig. 186: Installing Differential Case Bearings With Installer C-3716-A And Handle C-4171
1. Install differential case (2) bearings (3) with Installer C-3716-A (4) and Handle C-4171(1).
2. Install differential into the housing.
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GEAR-PINION/RING
REMOVAL
GEAR-PINION/RING
Fig. 187: Identifying Ring Gear & Bolts

NOTE: The ring gear and pinion are serviced as a matched set. Never replace ring gear
without replacing the matched pinion gear.
1. Remove differential from axle housing.

2. Place differential case in a vise with soft jaws.
3. Remove ring gear bolts (1) and tap ring gear (2) off differential case with a dead-blow hammer.
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4. Hold pinion flange (1) with Flange Holder C-3281 (2) and remove pinion nut.
Fig. 189: Removing Pinion Flange With Puller C-452 And Flange Holder C-3281
5. Remove pinion flange with Puller C-452 (1) and Flange Holder C-3281 (2).
6. Remove pinion gear from housing with dead-blow hammer.
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Fig. 190: Removing Oil Slinger From Housing

7. Remove pinion seal with seal puller.

8. Remove oil slinger (1) from housing (2).
Fig. 191: Removing Front Pinion Bearing From Housing

9. Remove front pinion bearing (1) from housing (2).
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Fig. 192: Removing Front Pinion Bearing Cup With Remover D-149 And Handle C-4171
10. Remove rear pinion bearing cup with a hammer and drift.
11. Remove front pinion bearing cup with Remover D-149 (1) and Handle C-4171 (2).
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Fig. 193: Removing Collapsible Spacer From Pinion Shaft

12. Remove collapsible spacer (1) from pinion shaft (2).
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Fig. 194: Removing Rear Pinion Bearing From Pinion With Puller C-293-PA And Adapters C-293-
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13. Remove rear pinion bearing from the pinion (1) with Puller C-293-PA (2) and Adapters C-293-42 (3).
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Fig. 195: Removing/Installing Pinion Depth Shim From/On Pinion Shaft

14. Remove pinion depth shim (1) from the pinion shaft (2) and record thickness.
INSTALLATION
GEAR-PINION/RING
Fig. 196: Installing Front Bearing Cup With Installer D-146 And Handle C-4171
NOTE: Pinion depth shims are located under the rear pinion bearing. Refer to
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Adjustments (Pinion Gear Depth) to select the proper thickness shim before
installing pinion gear. If ring and pinion gears are reused, the pinion depth shim
should not require replacement.
1. Install front bearing cup with Installer D-146 (1) and Handle C-4171 (2).
Fig. 197: Installing Rear Bearing Cup With Installer C-4308 And Handle C-4171
2. Install rear bearing cup with Installer C-4308 (2) and Handle C-4171 (1).
Fig. 198: Removing/Installing Pinion Depth Shim From/On Pinion Shaft

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3. Install pinion depth shim (1) on pinion shaft (2).
Fig. 199: Removing/Installing Rear Pinion Bearing On Pinion With Installer C-4040 And Press
4. Install rear pinion bearing (4) on pinion (3) with Installer C-4040 (2) and a press (1).
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Fig. 200: Removing/Installing Collapsible Spacer From Pinion Shaft

5. Install a new collapsible spacer (1) on pinion shaft (2).

6. Install pinion in housing.
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Fig. 201: Installing Front Pinion Bearing On Pinion Shaft

7. Install front pinion bearing (1) on pinion shaft (2).
Fig. 202: Installing Front Pinion Bearing Oil Slinger On Pinion Shaft
8. Install front pinion bearing oil slinger (1) on pinion shaft (2).
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9. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal. Install seal with Installer 8681 (1) and
Handle C-4171 (2).
Fig. 204: Identifying Installer W-162-D & Screw 8112

10. Install pinion flange with Installer W-162-D (1) Screw 8112 (2).
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11. Install new pinion nut. Hold flange (1) with Holder C-3281 (2) and tighten the nut to 217 N.m (160 ft.
lbs.). Do not exceed minimum tighten torque 217 N.m (160 ft. lbs.).
12. With a torque wrench set at 352 N.m (260 ft. lbs.) Tighten pinion nut until pinion end play is eliminated.
Fig. 206: Measuring Pinion Torque To Rotate (PTTR) With An Inch Pound Torque Wrench
13. Rotate pinion several times to seat bearings and verify pinion (1) rotates smoothly.
14. Slowly tighten the pinion nut in 6.8 N.m (5 ft. lbs.) increments until pinion torque to rotate is achieved.
Measure rotating torque frequently to avoid over crushing the collapsible spacer.
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15. Measure pinion torque to rotate (PTTR) with an inch pound torque wrench (2).
Pinion Torque To Rotate is:
Original Bearings: 1.0 - 2.2 N.m (10 - 20 in. lbs.).

New Bearings: 1.7 - 2.8 N.m (15 - 25 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease pinion rotating torque and
never exceed specified preload torque. Failure to follow these
instructions will result in damage.

16. Invert differential case and start two ring gear bolts. This will provide case-to-ring gear bolt hole
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alignment.
17. Invert differential case in the vise. Install new ring gear (2) bolts (1) and alternately tighten to 108 N.m
(80 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Never reuse the ring gear bolts. Failure to follow these instructions
18. Install differential in housing.
Fig. 208: Measuring Pinion Torque To Rotate (PTTR) With An Inch Pound Torque Wrench
19. Measure Total Torque to Rotate (TTTR) with an inch pound torque wrench (2). This will verify the
correct differential bearing preload.
Total Torque to Rotate (TTTR) is Pinion Torque To Rotate (PTTR) plus:
If TTTR is high, decrease shim thickness equally on both sides of the differential and check TTTR
again. If TTTR is low, increase shim thickness equally on both sides of the differential and check
TTTR again.
20. Verify differential gear contact pattern.
REAR AXLE - 8 1/4

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REAR AXLE - 8 1/4
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth
contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing not having the proper offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed range. The noise can also occur during a specific type of driving
condition. These conditions are acceleration, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then accelerate the
vehicle to the speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise
range. If the noise stops or changes greatly check for:
Insufficient lubricant.
Incorrect ring gear backlash.
Gear damage.
Differential side and pinions gears, usually do not cause noise during straight-ahead driving, when the gears are
unloaded. The side gears are loaded during turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a snapping or a
knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
Bearing noise can be either a whining or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant high pitch noise, because it rotates at a faster rate. This noise changes with
vehicle speed. If noise is heard under a load, the rear pinion bearing is the source. If noise is heard during a
coast, the front pinion bearing is the source.
Differential bearings usually produce a low pitch noise. The differential bearing noise is constant and varies
only with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearing noise generally changes when the bearings are loaded. Turn vehicle sharply to the left and
the right during a road test. This will load and unload the bearings and change the noise level. If axle bearing
damage is slight, the noise is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 m.p.h.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by:
Worn U-joints/CV joint.

Worn side-gear thrust washers.
Worn pinion shaft bore.
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VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually caused by:
Damaged drive shaft.

Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
Loose wheel lug nuts.
Loose/broken springs.
Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
Loose pinion gear nut.
Excessive pinion yoke run out.
Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components or engine/transmission mounts. These components can
contribute to what appears to be an axle vibration. Also look at engine accessories, brackets and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be examined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted into gear or the clutch engaged, can be caused by:
High engine idle speed.

Transmission shift operation.
Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
Loose spring mounts.
Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
Excessive ring gear backlash.
Excessive side gear to case clearance.
To determined the source of a snap/clunk noise, raise vehicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Have a
helper shift the transmission into gear and listen for the noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Worn wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
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2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as

necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and
inspect and repair clutch as
necessary.
Differential Cracked 1. Improper adjustment of the 1. Replace case and inspect gears
differential bearings. and bearings for further damage.
Set differential bearing pre-load
properly.
2. Excessive ring gear backlash. 2. Replace case and inspect gears
Set ring gear backlash properly.
3. Vehicle overloaded. 3. Replace case and inspect gears
Avoid excessive vehicle weight.
4. Erratic clutch operation. 4. Replace case and inspect gears
Avoid erratic use of clutch.
Differential Gears Scored 1. Insufficient lubrication. 1. Replace scored gears. Fill
type and quantity.
2. Improper grade of lubricant. 2. Replace scored gears. Fill
type and quantity.
3. Excessive spinning of one 3. Replace scored gears. Inspect
wheel/tire. all gears, pinion bores, and shaft
for damage. Service as necessary.
Loss Of Lubricant 1. Lubricant level too high. 1. Drain lubricant to the correct
level.
2. Worn axle shaft seals. 2. Replace seals.
3. Cracked differential housing. 3. Repair as necessary.
4. Worn pinion seal. 4. Replace seal.
5. Worn/scored yoke. 5. Replace yoke and seal.
6. Axle cover not properly sealed. 6. Remove, clean and seal cover.
Axle Overheating 1. Lubricant level low. 1. Fill differential to correct level.
2. Improper grade of lubricant. 2. Fill differential with the correct
3. Bearing pre-loads too high. 3. Adjust bearing pre-loads.
4. Insufficient ring gear backlash. 4. Adjust ring gear backlash.
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Gear Teeth Broke 1. Overloading. 1. Replace gears. Examine other

gears and bearings for possible
damage.
2. Erratic clutch operation. 2. Replace gears and examine the
Avoid erratic clutch operation.
3. Ice-spotted pavement. 3. Replace gears and examine
4. Improper adjustments. 4. Replace gears and examine
Ensure ring gear backlash is
correct.
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
2. Improper ring gear and pinion 2. Check ring gear and pinion
adjustment. contact pattern. Adjust backlash or
pinion depth.
3. Unmatched ring gear and 3. Replace gears with a matched
pinion. ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear or 4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing pre-
load.
7. Ring gear run-out. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap 8. Inspect differential components
bolts. and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
to t specifications.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
REMOVAL
REAR AXLE - 8 1/4
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2. Position a lift/jack under the axle and secure axle to device.
3. Mark axle pinion flange (1) and propeller shaft flange (2) for installation reference.
4. Remove propeller shaft and suspend under the vehicle.
Fig. 210: Identifying Brake Sensor & Axle

5. Remove brake sensor (1) from axle (2) and remove calipers, rotors and cables.
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NOTE: The parking brake is self-adjusting, and cables must be locked out before
removal. Refer to ADJUSTMENTS .
Fig. 211: Identifying Track Bar & Axle Bracket

6. Remove track bar (1) bolt from axle bracket (2).
Fig. 212: Identifying Stabilizer Bar & Axle Bracket

7. Remove vent hose from the axle shaft tube.

8. Remove stabilizer bar (1) axle bracket (2).
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Fig. 213: Identifying Shock Absorbers & Axle Brackets

9. Remove shock absorbers (1) from axle brackets (2).
Fig. 214: Identifying Upper Control Arm & Axle Brackets

10. Remove upper control arm (1) nuts and bolts from the axle brackets (2).
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Fig. 215: Identifying Lower Control Arm & Axle Brackets

11. Lower axle enough to remove coil springs and spring insulators.
12. Remove lower control arm (1) mounting bolts from axle brackets (2).
13. Lower and remove the axle.
INSTALLATION
REAR AXLE - 8 1/4
Fig. 216: Identifying Lower Control Arm & Axle Brackets

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CAUTION: The weight of the vehicle must be supported by the springs before the
control arms and track bar are tightened. Failure to follow these
instructions will cause premature bushing failure.
1. Raise the axle under the vehicle.

2. Install lower control arms (1) onto the axle brackets (2). Loosely install mounting bolts and nuts.
3. Install coil spring isolators and springs.
4. Raise axle up until springs are seated.
Fig. 217: Identifying Upper Control Arm & Axle Brackets

5. Install upper control arms (1) into axle brackets (2). Loosely install mounting bolts and nuts.
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Fig. 218: Identifying Shock Absorbers & Axle Brackets

6. Install shock absorbers (1) in axle brackets (2). Install shock bolts and nuts and tighten nuts to
specifications.
Fig. 219: Identifying Stabilizer Bar & Axle Bracket

7. Install stabilizer bar (1) and clamps (2) on axle. Tighten clamp (2) bolts to torque specifications.
8. Install vent hose to axle shaft tube.
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Fig. 220: Identifying Track Bar & Axle Bracket

9. Install track bar (1) in axle bracket (2). Loosely install track bar (1) bolt.
Fig. 221: Identifying Brake Sensor & Axle

10. Install brake rotors, calipers and brake sensor (1) on axle (2).
11. Install parking brake cables. Refer to INSTALLATION .
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12. Install propeller shaft with pinion flange (1) and propeller shaft flange (2) reference marks aligned.
NOTE: Clean all propeller shaft bolts and apply Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive or
13. Install propeller shaft bolts and tighten to specifications.

14. Install the wheels and tires.
15. Remove lifting device from axle and lower the vehicle.
16. Tighten lower control arms, upper control arms and track bar bolts to torque specifications.
ADJUSTMENTS
REAR AXLE - 8 1/4
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Fig. 223: Pinion ID Numbers

Ring gear and pinion are supplied as matched sets. Identifying numbers for the ring gear and pinion are painted
onto the pinion gear shaft and the side of the ring gear. A plus (+) number, minus (-) number or zero (0) along
with the gear set sequence number (2) (01 to 99) is on each gear. This first number (1) the amount (in
thousandths of an inch) the depth varies from the standard depth setting of a pinion marked with a (0). The next
two numbers are the sequence number of the gear set. The standard depth provides the best teeth contact
pattern.
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Fig. 224: Adjustment Shim Locations

Compensation for pinion depth variance is achieved with select shims (4). The shims are placed behind the rear
pinion bearing.
If installing a new gear, note the depth variance number of the original and replacement pinion. Add or subtract
this number from the original depth shim to compensate for the difference in the depth variances. The numbers
represent thousands of an inch deviation from the standard. If the number is negative, add that value to the
required thickness of the depth shims. If the number is positive, subtract that value from the thickness of the
depth shim.
Pinion Gear Depth Variance Chart : Note where Old and New Pinion Marking columns intersect.
Intersecting figure represents plus or minus the amount needed.
PINION GEAR DEPTH VARIANCE

Original Pinion Gear Replacement Pinion Gear Depth Variance
Depth Variance -4 -3 -2 -1 0 +1 +2 +3 +4
+4 +0.008 +0.007 +0.006 +0.005 +0.004 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0
+3 +0.007 +0.006 +0.005 +0.004 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001
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+2 +0.006 +0.005 +0.004 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002

+1 +0.005 +0.004 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003
0 +0.004 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003 -0.004
-1 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003 -0.004 -0.005
-2 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003 -0.004 -0.005 -0.006
-3 +0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003 -0.004 -0.005 -0.006 -0.007
-4 0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003 -0.004 -0.005 -0.006 -0.007 -0.008
PINION DEPTH MEASUREMENT
Fig. 225: Pinion Depth Gauge Tools

Measurements are taken with pinion bearing cups and pinion bearings installed in the housing. Take
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measurements with Pinion Gauge Set 6730 and Dial Indicator C-3339A (1).
Fig. 226: Identifying Pinion Block 8540 & Pinion Height Block 6739
1. Assemble Pinion Height Block 6739 (2), Pinion Block 8540 (1) and rear pinion bearing onto Screw 6741.
2. Insert assembled height gauge components, rear bearing and screw into housing through pinion bearing
cups.
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Fig. 227: Gauge Tools In Housing

3. Install front pinion bearing and Cone-Nut 6740 on the screw. Tighten Cone-Nut until Torque To Rotate
screw is 1.7 N.m (15 in. lbs.).
4. Place Arbor Disc 8541 (1) on Arbor D-115-3 (3) in position in the housing side bearing cradles. Install
differential bearing caps on arbor discs and tighten cap bolts to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 228: Assembling Dial Indicator C-3339A Into Scooter Block D-115-2A And Securing Set Screw
5. Assemble Dial Indicator C-3339A (3) into Scooter Block D-115-2A (2) and secure set screw.
6. Place Scooter Block/Dial Indicator in position in axle housing so dial probe and scooter block are flush
against the rearward surface of the pinion height block. Hold scooter block in place and zero the dial
indicator. Tighten dial indicator face lock screw.
7. Slowly slide the dial indicator probe over the edge of the pinion height block.
8. Slide the dial indicator probe across the gap between the pinion height block and the arbor bar (1) with
the scooter block against the pinion height block. When dial probe contacts the arbor bar, the dial pointer
will turn clockwise. Continue moving the dial probe to the crest of the arbor bar and record the highest
reading. If the dial indicator can not achieve a zero reading, the rear bearing cup or the pinion depth gauge
set is not installed correctly.
9. Select a shim equal to the dial indicator reading, plus the drive pinion gear depth variance number marked
on the shaft of the pinion. If the depth variance is -2, add 0.002 in. to the dial indicator reading. If the
depth variance is -2, add 0.002 in. subtract dial indicator reading. Then subtract 0.041 mm (0.0016 in.)
from the total measurement. This will be the correct pinion height shim selection.
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Fig. 229: Measuring Pinion Torque To Rotating With An Inch Pound Torque Wrench
10. Install pinion gear and establish Pinion Torque To Rotate (PTTR) with an inch pound torque wrench (1).
DIFFERENTIAL BEARING PRELOAD AND GEAR BACKLASH
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Fig. 230: Installing Dial Indicator C-3339A With Plunger Position Against Drive Side Of Ring Gear
Tooth
1. Turn each thread adjuster inward with Wrench C-4164 until differential bearing end-play is eliminate and
ring gear backlash is approximately 0.25 mm (0.01 in.). Seat bearing cups by rapidly rotating the pinion
gear a half turn back and forth several times.
2. Install Dial Indicator C-3339A (1) with plunger position against drive side of a ring gear (2) tooth.
Measure and record backlash at 4 positions, 90 degrees apart around the ring gear.
Mark lowest backlash position on the ring gear and make all backlash measurements at this location.
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Fig. 231: Identifying Axle Tubes & Adjuster C-4164

3. Loosen left-side adjuster and tighten right-side threaded adjuster with Wrench C-4164 (3) to obtain a
backlash of 0.076 - 0.102 mm (0.003 - 0.004 in.).
4. Tighten both adjusters to 14 N.m (10 ft. lbs.). Seat differential bearing cups by rapidly rotating the pinion
gear a half turn back and forth several times.
5. Tighten differential bearing cap bolts 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
6. Tighten right-side threaded adjuster to 102 N.m (75 ft. lbs.). Seat differential bearing cups by rapidly
rotating the pinion gear a half turn back and forth several times. Continue this procedure until right-side
adjuster torque remains a constant 102 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
7. Measure the ring gear backlash. Backlash should be 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.).
If backlash is less than 0.12 (0.005 in.) increase right-side threaded adjuster torque until specified
backlash is obtained.
If backlash is more than 0.20 (0.008 in.) repeat procedure from the beginning.
8. Tighten left-side threaded adjuster to 102 N.m (75 ft. lbs.). Seat differential bearing cups by rapidly
rotating the pinion gear a half turn back and forth several times. Continue this procedure until left-side
adjuster torque remains a constant 102 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
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9. Install threaded adjuster locks and tighten the lock screws to 10 N.m (90 in. lbs.).
10. Measure and backlash at 4 positions, 90 degrees apart around the ring gear. Maximum ring gear backlash
variation is 0.076 mm (0.003 in.).
After backlash is achieved, perform Gear Contact procedure.
GEAR CONTACT PATTERN
Fig. 232: Gear Contact Pattern Is Correct

1. Wipe clean each tooth of the ring gear.

2. Apply gear marking compound to all of the ring gear teeth.
3. Verify bearing cap bolts are torque specifications.
4. Apply parking brakes lightly to create at 14 N.m (10 ft. lbs.) pinion rotating torque.
5. Rotate the pinion/pinion yoke 4 full revolutions in each directions.
6. Read gear tooth contact pattern.
Gear contact pattern is correct. Backlash and pinion depth is correct.
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Fig. 233: Identifying Coast Side Toe & Drive Side Heel
Ring gear is too far away from the pinion gear, coast side toe (1) drive side heel (2). Decrease backlash by
moving ring closer to the pinion gear using the adjusters.
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Fig. 234: Identifying Drive Side Toe & Coast Side Heel
Ring gear is too close to the pinion gear, drive side toe (1) coast side heel (2). Increase backlash by
moving ring away from the pinion gear using the adjusters.
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Fig. 235: Identifying Drive Side Heel & Coast Side Heel
Ring gear is too far away from the pinion gear, drive side heel (1) coast side heel (2). Decrease backlash
by moving ring gear closer to the pinion gear using the adjusters.
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Fig. 236: Identifying Drive Side Toe & Coast Side Toe
Ring gear is too close to the pinion gear, drive side toe (1) coast side toe (2). Increase backlash by moving
ring gear away from the pinion gear using the adjusters.
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Fig. 237: Pinion Gear Is Set Too Low

Pinion gear is set too low. Increase pinion gear height, by increasing pinion depth shim thickness.
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Fig. 238: Pinion Gear Is Set Too High

Pinion gear is set too high. Decrease pinion height by decreasing the pinion depth shim thickness.
AXLE SHAFT END-PLAY
Visual inspect differential case, pinion mate shaft, axle shaft end button, C-lock, differential pinion gears,
differential side gears and washers for damage or excessive wear. Replace damaged components.
1. Assemble differential and install.

2. Install differential pinion mate shaft locking screw to locate the shaft without torque it down.
3. Mount dial indicator base on the axle tube flange.
4. Push axle shaft inward until its end touches differential pinion mate shaft. Set dial indicator plunger on
the end of axle shaft flange surface and zero dial indicator.
5. Pull axle shaft out until it stops and record dial indicator end-play reading. Rotate axle shaft about 180
degrees and record dial indicator end-play reading again. Two readings should be within 0.05 mm (0.002
in.).
6. Conduct the same procedure on the axle shaft on the opposite side.
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End-play specifications should be 0.13 - 0.38 mm (0.005 - 0.015 in.). If specifications can not be met, shim side
gears and/or replace differential case.
SPECIFICATIONS
REAR AXLE - 8 1/4
AXLE SPECIFICATIONS
Axle Ratio 3.21/3.55/3.73
Differential Case Flange Runout 0.076 mm (0.003 in.)
Differential Case Clearance 0.12 mm (0.005 in.)
Ring Gear Diameter 213 mm (8.25 in.)
Ring Gear Backlash 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.)
Ring Gear Runout 0.12 mm (0.005 in.)
Pinion Torque To Rotate - Original Bearings 1 - 2 N.m (10 - 20 in. lbs.)
Pinion Torque To Rotate - New Bearings 1 - 3.4 N.m (10 - 30 in. lbs.)
Differential Cover Bolts 41 30 -
Bearing Cap Bolts 135 100 -
Ring Gear Bolts - Gas
122 90 -
Engines
Pinion Nut Minimum 285 210 -
Pinion Mate Shaft Screw 26 19 -
Axle Damper 61 45 -
Adjuster Lock Screw 26 19 -
Ring Gear Bolts - Diesel Engines: Follow service procedure to tighten ring gear bolts on vehicles equipped
with diesel engine and 3.21 gear ratio.
SPECIAL TOOLS
REAR AXLE - 8 1/4
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Fig. 239: Puller/Press C-293-PA

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Fig. 240: Adapters C-293-47

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Fig. 241: Blocks, Adapter - C-293-48

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Fig. 242: Flange Holder C-3281

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Fig. 245: Installer C-4076-B

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Fig. 246: Adjustment Wrench C-4164

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Fig. 249: Remover C-4307

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Fig. 252: Remover C-4345

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Fig. 254: Installer - D-130

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Fig. 255: Remover 6310

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Fig. 257: Pinion Gauge Set 6774


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Fig. 259: Pinion Block 8540

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Fig. 260: Arbor Discs 8541

Fig. 261: Plug 8926-2

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Fig. 262: Pinion Driver 8976

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Fig. 263: Flange Puller 8992

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Fig. 264: Remover/Installer 10126

COVER-DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
COVER-DIFFERENTIAL

2. Remove cover bolts.
3. Remove cover and drain lubricant.
INSTALLATION
COVER-DIFFERENTIAL
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Fig. 265: Applying Bead Of Orange Mopar™ Axle RTV Sealant To Housing Cover
1. Apply a bead of orange Mopar™ Axle RTV sealant (1) or equivalent to the housing cover (2).
CAUTION: If cover is not installed within 3 to 5 minutes, the cover must be

cleaned and new RTV applied. Failure to follow these instructions will
cause a leak.
2. Install cover and identification tag. Tighten cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.).
3. Fill differential to specifications.
4. Install fill plug.
SHAFT-AXLE
REMOVAL
SHAFT-AXLE
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Fig. 266: Identifying Pinion Mate Shaft & Lock Screw


2. Remove rear brake components.
3. Remove wheel speed sensor.
4. Remove differential housing cover and drain lubricant.
5. Rotate differential case so pinion mate shaft (1) lock screw (2) is accessible. Remove pinion mate shaft
lock screw (2) from differential case.
Fig. 267: Identifying Pinion Mate Shaft & Differential Case

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6. Remove pinion mate shaft (1) from differential case (2).
Fig. 268: Identifying Axle Shaft C-Lock, Axle Shaft & Differential Side Gears
7. Push axle shaft inward and remove axle shaft C-lock (1) from the axle shaft (2).
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Fig. 269: Identifying Axle Shaft & Axle Tube

8. Remove axle shaft (1) from side gear and axle tube (2).
INSTALLATION
SHAFT-AXLE
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1. Install axle shaft (1) in axle tube (2) and engage into side gear splines.
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2. Lubricate bearing bore and seal lip with gear lubricant.

3. Install C-lock (1) in axle shaft end, then push axle shaft outward to seat C-lock in side gear.
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4. Install pinion mate shaft (1) into differential case (2) and through thrust washers and differential pinions.
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Fig. 273: Identifying Lock Screws

5. Align hole in shaft with hole in the differential case and install lock screw (4) with Mopar Lock & Seal or
equivalent on the threads. Tighten lock screw to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.).
6. Install differential cover.
7. Install rear brake components.
SEAL-AXLE SHAFT
REMOVAL
SEAL-AXLE SHAFT
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1. Remove axle shaft (1) from axle tube (2).
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Fig. 275: Removing Axle Shaft Seal From Axle Tube With Seal Puller
2. Remove axle shaft seal (1) from axle tube (2) with seal puller.
INSTALLATION
SEAL-AXLE SHAFT
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Fig. 276: Coating Seal Lip With Axle Lubricant And Installing Seal With Installer 8493 And Handle C-
4171
1. Remove any old sealer/burrs from axle tube.

2. Coat new seal lip with axle lubricant and install seal with Installer 8493 (1) and Handle C-4171 (1).
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3. Install axle shaft (1) in axle tube (2).
BEARING-AXLE
REMOVAL
BEARING-AXLE
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Fig. 278: Positioning Bearing Receiver On Axle Tube

NOTE: Remove bearing with Bearing Remover 6310 and Foot 6310-9.
1. Remove axle shaft.

2. Remove axle seal with seal pick.
3. Position bearing (2) receiver (1) on axle tube.
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Fig. 279: Inserting Bearing Remover Foot 6310-9 Through Receiver And Bearing
4. Insert bearing remover Foot 6310-9 (3) through receiver (2) and bearing (1).
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Fig. 280: Tightening Remove Nut On Shaft To Pull Bearing Into Receiver
5. Tighten remove nut (1) on the shaft (4) to pull bearing into the receiver (3).
INSTALLATION
BEARING-AXLE
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Fig. 281: Identifying Installer C-4198 & Handle C-4171

1. Remove any old sealer/burrs from axle tube.

2. Install axle shaft bearing with Installer C-4198 (1) and Handle C-4171 (2). Drive bearing in until tool
contacts the axle tube.
NOTE: Bearing is installed with the bearing part number against installer.
3. Coat new axle seal lip with axle lubricant. Install seal with Installer 8493 and Handle C-4171.
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4. Install axle shaft (1) in axle tube (2).
SEAL-PINION
REMOVAL
SEAL-PINION
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2. Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
3. Mark a reference line across the axle flange (1) and propeller shaft flange (2).
4. Remove companion flange bolts and remove propeller shaft.
5. Remove brake calipers and rotors to prevent any drag.
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6. Rotate companion flange three or four times and verify flange rotates smoothly.
7. Record pinion torque to rotating (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2) for installation reference.
Fig. 285: Holding Pinion Flange With Holder C-3281

8. Hold pinion flange (1) with Holder C-3281 (2) and remove pinion nut.
9. Mark a line across the pinion shaft and flange for installation reference.
Fig. 286: Identifying Pinion Flange & Puller 8992

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10. Remove pinion flange (1) with Puller 8992 (2).

11. Remove pinion seal with a seal puller.
INSTALLATION
SEAL-PINION
Fig. 287: Installing Pinion Seal With Installer C-4076-B And Handle C-4735
1. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal.

2. Install new pinion seal with Installer C-4076-B (1) and Handle C-4735 (2).
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Fig. 288: Installing Flange With Installer C-3718

3. Install flange on the pinion shaft with the reference marks aligned.
4. Install flange (1) with Installer C-3718 (2).

5. Install new pinion nut. Hold flange (1) with Holder C-3281 (2) and tighten pinion nut to 285 N.m (210 ft.
lbs.). Rotate pinion several revolutions to ensure the bearing rollers are seated.
NOTE: Do not exceed the minimum torque 285 N.m (210 ft. lbs.) when installing
the pinion nut at this point.
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6. Measure pinion torque to rotate (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2). Pinion torque to rotating
should be equal to recorded reading plus an additional 0.56 N.m (5 in. lbs.).
If pinion torque to rotate is low, tighten pinion nut in 6.8 N.m (5 ft. lbs.) increments until pinion torque to
rotating is achieved.
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pinion bearing rotating torque. If
pinion torque to rotating is exceeded, a new collapsible spacer must
be installed. Failure to follow these instructions will result in damage
to the axle.
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7. Install propeller shaft (1) with axle flange (2) installation reference marks aligned.
8. Install rear brake components.
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
DIFFERENTIAL

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1. Remove differential fill plug.

2. Remove differential cover and drain lubricant.
3. Remove pinion mate shaft (1) lock screw (2) from differential case.

4. Remove pinion mate shaft (1) from differential case (2).
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5. Push axle shaft inward and remove axle shaft C-lock (1) from the axle shaft (2). Slide axle shafts (2) out
of differential side gears (3).
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Fig. 295: Marking Differential Housing And Bearing Caps For Installation Reference
6. Mark (1) (2) differential housing and bearing caps (3) for installation reference.
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Fig. 296: Removing Bearing Adjuster Lock Bolt From Bearing Caps & Loosening Differential
Bearing Cap Bolts
7. Remove bearing adjuster lock bolt (3) from bearing caps.

8. Loosen differential bearing cap bolts (2).
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9. Loosen differential bearing adjusters through the axle tubes (1) with Adjuster C-4164 (3).
10. Hold differential case while removing bearing caps and adjusters.
11. Remove differential case and tag differential bearing cups and adjusters to indicate location.
12. Clean housing cavity with flushing oil, light engine oil or a lint free cloth.
DISASSEMBLY
DIFFERENTIAL
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Fig. 298: Identifying Differential Window, Pinion Gear & Thrust Washer
1. Rotate one pinion gear (2) with thrust washer (3) to the differential window (1) and remove gear and
thrust washer.
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Fig. 299: Identifying Differential Window, Thrust Washer & Pinion Gear
2. Rotate remaining pinion gear (3) with thrust washer (2) to the differential window (1) and remove gear
and washer.
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Fig. 300: Removing Differential Side Gears And Thrust Washers

3. Remove differential side gears (1) (2) and thrust washers.
ASSEMBLY
DIFFERENTIAL
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Fig. 301: Identifying Differential Side Gears & Differential Window

NOTE: If same gears and thrust washers are being used, install them into their original
locations.
1. Lubricate all differential components with axle lubricant.

2. Install differential side gears (2) and thrust washers through differential window (1).
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Fig. 302: Identifying First Pinion Gear, Differential Window & Side Gears
3. Install first pinion gear (3) with thrust washer into differential window (1) and side gears (2). Rotate
pinion gear into the case.
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Fig. 303: Identifying Differential Window, Pinion Gear & Thrust Washer
4. Install remaining pinion gear (2) and thrust washer (3). Rotate gears to align hole in the pinion gears with
hole in the differential case.
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Fig. 304: Sliding Pinion Shaft Into Case And Through Pinion Gears To Align Gears
5. Slide pinion shaft (1) into the case and through the pinion gears (3) to align the gears.
INSTALLATION
DIFFERENTIAL
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Fig. 305: Installing Differential Bolts

1. Apply a coat of hypoid gear lubricant to differential bearings, bearing caps and threaded adjusters.
NOTE: Grease can be used to keep the adjusters in position.
2. Install differential assembly into the housing.

3. Install differential bearing caps in their original locations.
4. Install bearing cap bolts (2) and tighten upper bolts to 14 N.m (10 ft. lbs.). Tighten lower bolts finger-
tight until bolt head is seated.
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5. Perform differential bearing preload adjustment procedure with Wrench C-4164 (3).
6. Tighten bearing cap bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 135 N.m (100 ft. lbs.).
7. Install adjuster locks on bearing caps and tighten to 10 N.m (90 in. lbs.).
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8. Install axle shaft (1) in axle tube (2) and engage into side gear splines.
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Fig. 308: Installing C-Lock In Axle Shaft End, Then Pushing Axle Shaft Outward To Seat C-Lock
In Side Gear
9. Lubricate bearing bore and seal lip with gear lubricant.

10. Install C-lock (1) in axle shaft end, then push axle shaft outward to seat C-lock in side gear.
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11. Install pinion mate shaft (1) into differential case (2) and through thrust washers and differential pinions.

12. Align hole in mate shaft (1) with hole in the differential case. Apply Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive or
equivalent to lock screw (2) threads. Install lock screw and tighten to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.).
13. Install differential cover.
BEARING-DIFFERENTIAL CASE
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REMOVAL
BEARINGS-DIFFERENTIAL CASES
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Fig. 311: Removing Differential Bearings From Case With Puller/Press C-293-PA And Adapters C-293-
48 And Plug 8926-2
1. Remove differential case from axle.

2. Remove differential bearings (3) from the case with Puller/Press C-293-PA (1) and Adapters C-293-48
(2) and Plug 8926-2 (5).
INSTALLATION
Fig. 312: Installing Differential Bearings With Installer C-4340 And Handle C-4171
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1. Install differential (2) bearings (3) with Installer C-4340 (4) and Handle C-4171(1).
2. Install differential case in axle.
GEAR-PINION/RING
REMOVAL
GEAR-PINION/RING
NOTE: The ring and pinion gears are serviced in a matched set. Never replace one gear
without replacing the other matched gear.
RING GEAR REMOVAL - GAS ENGINE
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2. Place differential case in a vise with soft metal jaw.
3. Remove bolts (1) holding ring gear (2) to differential case.
4. Drive ring gear from differential case with a dead-blow hammer.
RING GEAR REMOVAL - DIESEL ENGINE


2. Place differential case in a vise with soft metal jaw.
3. Remove left hand threaded bolts (1) holding ring gear (2) to differential case.
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Fig. 315: Pressing Ring Gear Off Differential With Plug 8926-2 And Removing 10126-1
4. Press ring gear (1) off differential with Plug 8926-2 (2) and Remove 10126-1 (3).

5. Hold pinion flange (1) with Holder C-3281 (2) and remove flange nut.
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Fig. 317: Identifying Pinion Flange & Puller 8992

6. Remove pinion flange (1) from pinion shaft with Puller 8992 (2).
Fig. 318: Removing Pinion From Housing With Driver 8976 And Hammer
7. Remove pinion (1) from the housing with Driver 8976 (2) and hammer.
8. Remove pinion shaft seal with a seal puller.
9. Remove front pinion bearing.
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Fig. 319: Removing Front Pinion Bearing Cup With Remover C-4345 And Handle C-4171
10. Remove front pinion bearing cup with Remover C-4345 (1) and Handle C-4171 (2).
Fig. 320: Removing Rear Bearing Cup With Remover C-4307 And Handle C-4171
11. Remove rear bearing cup with Remover C-4307 (1) and Handle C-4171 (2).
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12. Remove collapsible spacer (1) from pinion shaft (3).
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Fig. 322: Removing Rear Pinion Bearing From Pinion Shaft With Puller/Press C-293-PA And
Adapters C-293-47
13. Remove rear pinion bearing from pinion shaft (1) with Puller/Press C-293-PA (2) and Adapters C-293-47
(3).
Fig. 323: Removing/Installing Depth Shims From Pinion Shaft

14. Remove depth shims (1) from the pinion shaft (2) and record the shims thickness.
INSTALLATION
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GEAR-PINION/RING
Fig. 324: Installing Rear Pinion Bearing Cup With Installer C-4308 And Handle C-4171
NOTE: A pinion depth shim is located under the rear pinion bearing. If ring and pinion
gears are reused, the original pinion depth shim/oil baffle can be used. Refer to
Adjustments (Pinion Gear Depth) to select the proper shim thickness if ring and
pinion gear are replaced.
1. Install rear pinion bearing cup with Installer C-4308 (1) and Handle C-4171 (2).
Fig. 325: Installing Front Pinion Bearing Cup With Installer D-130 And Handle C-4171
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2. Install front pinion bearing cup with Installer D-130 (1) and Handle C-4171 (2).
Fig. 326: Installing Pinion Seal With Installer C-4076-B And Handle C-4735
3. Install pinion front bearing in housing.

4. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal and install seal with Installer C-4076-B (1)
and Handle C-4735 (2).
Fig. 327: Removing/Installing Depth Shims From Pinion Shaft

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5. Install pinion depth shim (1) on pinion shaft (2).
Fig. 328: Removing/Installing Rear Pinion Bearing On Pinion With Installer C-4040 And Press
6. Install rear bearing (4) on pinion gear (3) and slinger if equipped, with Installer 6448A (2) and a press (1).
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7. Install a new collapsible spacer (1) on pinion shaft (3) and install pinion in housing.
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Fig. 330: Installing Flange With Installer C-3718

8. Install pinion flange (1) with Installer C-3718 (2).

9. Install a new nut on the pinion.
10. Holding flange (1) with Holder C-3281 and tighten nut with torque wrench to 285 N.m (210 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Do not exceed the minimum torque 285 N.m (210 ft. lbs.) when installing
the pinion nut at this point.
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11. Measure pinion torque to rotating (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2). Measure pinion torque to
rotating frequently to avoid over over-crushing the collapsible spacer.
Pinion Torque To Rotate is:
Original Bearings 1 - 2.2 N.m (10 - 20 in. lbs.)

New Bearings 1- 5 N.m (10 - 30 in. lbs.)
If pinion torque to rotate is low, tighten pinion nut in 6.8 N.m (5 ft. lbs.) increments until pinion
torque to rotate is achieved.
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pinion bearing rotating torque. If
pinion torque to rotating is exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be
installed. Failure to follow these instructions will damage the axle.
RING GEAR INSTALLATION - GAS ENGINES
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1. Install ring gear on differential case.

2. Invert differential case in the vise.
3. Install new ring gear (2) bolts (1) and alternately tighten to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
4. Install differential in axle housing and verify gear mesh refer to Adjustments (Gear Contact Pattern).
RING GEAR INSTALLATION - DIESEL ENGINES
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Fig. 333: Heating Ring Gear On Bearing Heater

WARNING: Use welding gloves when handling heated components. Failure to follow
these instructions will result in personal injury.
CAUTION: A bearing heater is used to install the ring gear on the differential. Use
only a bearing heater/hot plate and follow manufacture's instructions. Heat
components to 107 - 121 Celsius (225° Min. - 250° Max Fahrenheit). Never
use an open flame to heat components. Never leave components on heater
for and extended amount of time. If component is discolored after heating,
the component has been overheated and must not be used. Failure to
follow these instructions will result in component damage.
1. Heat ring gear (1) on bearing heater (2) to 107 - 121 Celsius (225° Min. - 250° Max Fahrenheit).
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Fig. 334: Installing Left Hand Threaded Pins 10126-2 Into Ring Gear
2. Turn ring gear over on bearing heater with welding gloves once the temperature has been reached.
3. Install left hand threaded Pins 10126-2 (1) into ring gear (2).
Fig. 335: Installing Ring Gear On Differential Using Pins 10126-2 To Align Ring Gear Bolts Hole
4. Install ring gear (1) on differential (2) using Pins 10126-2 (3) to align ring gear bolts hole.
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Fig. 336: Turning Differential Over And Removing Pins 10126-2 From Ring Gear
5. Allow ring gear time to cool, then turn the differential over and remove Pins 10126-2 (1) from ring gear
(2).
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6. Install new left hand threaded ring gear (2) bolts (1) and alternately tighten to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.). Then
with torque angle gauge alternately tighten to 95 degrees ± 5 degrees.
7. Install differential in axle housing and verify gear mesh refer to Adjustments (Gear Contact Pattern).
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2007 ENGINE Exhaust System And Turbocharger - Nitro
2007 ENGINE
Exhaust System And Turbocharger - Nitro
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION-GAS ENGINE
Fig. 1: Exhaust System - Gas

1 - EXHAUST FLANGE
2 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
3 - FRONT EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY-TO-MUFFLER CLAMP
4 - MUFFLER
5 - INSULATOR
6 - RESONATOR
The basic exhaust system consists of an exhaust pipe assembly with catalytic converters (2), muffler (4) and
tailpipe assembly and heat shields
The exhaust system must be properly aligned to prevent stress, leakage and body contact. Minimum clearance
between any exhaust component and the body or frame is 25 mm (1.0 in.). If the system contacts any body
panel, it may amplify objectionable noises from the engine or body.
When inspecting an exhaust system, critically inspect for cracked or loose joints, stripped screw or bolt threads,
corrosion damage and worn, cracked or broken hangers. Replace all components that are badly corroded or
damaged. DO NOT attempt to repair.
When replacement is required, use original equipment parts (or equivalent). This will assure proper engine
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function and system alignment.
CAUTION: Avoid application of rust prevention compounds or undercoating materials

to exhaust system floor pan exhaust heat shields. Light overspray near the
edges is permitted. Application of coating will result in excessive floor pan
temperatures and objectionable fumes.
DESCRIPTION-2.8L DIESEL
Fig. 2: Exhaust System - 2.8L Diesel - W/Out DPF

1 - OXYGEN SENSOR
2 - MANIVERTER
3 - MANIVERTER TO EXHAUST PIPE FLANGE
4 - FLEXIBLE BELLOWS
5 - ISOLATORS
6 - MUFFLER/TAILPIPE ASSEMBLY
7 - EXHAUST PIPE TO MUFFLER FLANGE
CAUTION: Avoid application of rust prevention compounds or undercoating materials

to exhaust system floor pan exhaust heat shields. Light overspray near the
edges is permitted. Application of coating will result in excessive floor pan
temperatures and objectionable fumes.
The diesel engine exhaust system consists of an engine exhaust manifold, turbocharger, EGR valve with
intercooler, front exhaust pipe with catalytic converter, muffler and tailpipe assembly.
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Fig. 3: Exhaust System - 2.8L Diesel - W/DPF

1 - MANIVERTER
2 - MANIVERTER TO DFP FLANGE
3 - PRESSURE SENSOR TUBING
4 - STEADY MOUNT
6 - ISOLATOR
7 - MUFFLER/TAIL PIPE ASSEMBLY
8 - DPF TO MUFFLER FLANGE
The exhaust system must be properly aligned to prevent stress, leakage and body contact. The exhaust
components should be kept a minimum of 25.4 mm (1.0 in.) away from the body and frame. If the system
contacts any body panel, it may amplify objectionable noises from the engine or body.

EXHAUST SYSTEM-GAS ENGINES

EXCESSIVE EXHAUST NOISE 1. Leaks at pipe joints. 1. Tighten clamps/bolts to
OR LEAKING EXHAUST specified torque at leaking joints.
GASES 2. Rusted or blown out muffler. 2. Replace muffler. Inspect
exhaust system.
3. Broken or rusted out exhaust 3. Replace exhaust pipe.
pipe.
4. Exhaust pipe leaking at 4. Tighten/replace flange attaching
manifold flange. nuts/bolts.
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5. Exhaust manifold cracked or 5. Replace exhaust manifold.

broken.
6. Leak between exhaust manifold 6. Tighten exhaust manifold to
and cylinder head. cylinder head bolts.
7. Catalytic converter rusted or 7. Replace catalytic converter
blown out. assy.
8. Restriction in exhaust system. 8. Remove restriction, if possible.
Replace restricted part if
necessary.
CAUTION:
When servicing and replacing exhaust system components, disconnect the oxygen sensor
connector(s). Allowing the exhaust to hang by the oxygen sensor wires will damage the harness
and/or sensor.
EXHAUST SYSTEM-DIESEL ENGINE
CAUTION: On high mileage vehicles it is normal to see some exhaust staining around
the turbocharger control rod area. This is not a sign of turbocharger
failure.
EXHAUST SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART

EXCESSIVE EXHAUST NOISE 1. Leaks at pipe joints. 1. Tighten clamps/bolts at leaking
OR LEAKING EXHAUST joints.
GASES 2. Rusted or blown out muffler. 2. Replace muffler. Inspect
exhaust system.
3. Broken or rusted out exhaust 3. Replace exhaust pipe.
pipe.
4. Exhaust pipe leaking at 4. Tighten/replace flange attaching
manifold flange. nuts/bolts.
5. Exhaust manifold cracked or 5. Replace exhaust manifold.
broken.
6. Leak between exhaust manifold 6. Tighten exhaust manifold to
and cylinder head. cylinder head bolts. Replace
gasket if necessary.
7. Turbocharger mounting flange 7. Remove turbocharger and
cracked. inspect. (Refer to REMOVAL ).
8. Restriction in exhaust system. 8. Remove restriction, if possible.
Replace restricted part if
necessary.
9. EGR pipe(s) leak. 9. Tighten bolts. Replace gasket.
10. EGR assembly leak. 10. Tighten bolts. Replace gaskets.
Driveability Concern - Turbo 1. Vacuum hose disconnected. 1. Check connections, replace as
necessary.
2. Vacuum system leaks. 2. Inspect for damage. Check for
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leaks, replace as necessary.

3. Boost pressure solenoid filter 3. Replace the filter.
clogged.
SPECIFICATIONS
EGR Pipe to EGR Inlet 32 24 -
Front Exhaust Pipe 36 28 -
Flange-to-Exhaust
Manifold Bolts
Front Exhaust pipe-to- 36 28 -
Muffler Flange Nuts
Turbocharger Support 24 18 -
Bracket Bolts
Turbocharger Downpipe 32 24 -
Nuts
Turbocharger Oil Supply 24 18 215
Line Fitting
Turbocharger Oil Return 11 - 96
Line bolts
Turbocharger to Exhaust 32 24 -
Manifold Nuts
SPECIAL TOOLS
SPECIAL TOOLS
Fig. 4: Turbocharger Tester 9022

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Fig. 5: Adaptor 8442

CONVERTER-CATALYTIC
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: The normal operating temperature of the exhaust system is very high.
Therefore, never work around or attempt to service any part of the
exhaust system until it is cooled. Special care should be taken when
working near the catalytic converter. The temperature of the converter
rises to a high level after a short period of engine operation time.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove spark plug wires from plugs or by any other means short
out cylinders. Failure of the catalytic converter can occur due to a
temperature increase caused by unburned fuel passing through the
converter.
The stainless steel catalytic converter body is designed to last the life of the vehicle. Excessive heat can result in
bulging or other distortion, but excessive heat will not be the fault of the converter. If unburned fuel enters the
converter, overheating may occur. If a converter is heat-damaged, correct the cause of the damage at the same
time the converter is replaced. Also, inspect all other components of the exhaust system for heat damage.
Unleaded gasoline must be used to avoid contaminating the catalyst core.
50 State emission vehicles incorporate two catalytic converters located after the exhaust manifolds and before
the muffler.
REMOVAL
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REMOVAL-3.7L ENGINE
Fig. 6: 3.7L Catalytic Converter

WARNING: If torches are used when working on the exhaust system, do not allow the
flame near the fuel lines.

2. Saturate the bolts (1) and nuts with heat valve lubricant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
3. Disconnect oxygen sensor electrical connectors.
4. Remove the nuts from the front exhaust pipe and catalytic converter assembly to muffler flange.
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5. Remove bolts (1) and flanged nuts at the manifold.

6. Lower the front exhaust pipe/catalytic converter assembly (3) and slide out of the mount at the
transmission (if equipped).
7. Remove the front exhaust pipe/catalytic converter assembly from the vehicle.
REMOVAL-2.8L DIESEL
Fig. 7: Catalytic Converter - 2.8L Diesel

1 - NUT
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
WARNING: If torches are used when working on the exhaust system, do not allow the
flame near the fuel lines.

2. Saturate the bolts and nuts with heat valve lubricant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
3. Remove diesel particulate filter (DPF), if equipped.
4. Remove two bracket bolts (2).
5. Remove the nuts (1) from the front catalytic converter to turbocharger flange.
6. Lower the catalyst assembly (2) and slide out of the mount at the transmission (if equipped).
7. Remove the front exhaust pipe/catalytic converter assembly from the vehicle.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
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Look at the stainless steel body of the converter, inspect for bulging or other distortion that could be a result of
overheating. If the converter has a heat shield attached make sure it is not bent or loose.
If you suspect internal damage to the catalyst, tapping the bottom of the catalyst with a rubber mallet may
indicate a damaged core.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 8: Catalytic Converter - 2.8L Diesel

1 - NUT
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
1. Position the front catalytic converter assembly (3) onto the turbocharger.
2. Install two catalytic converter mounting bolts. Tighten bolts to 27 N.m (19 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Install DPF, if equipped. See REMOVAL.
4. Position the exhaust pipe for proper clearance with the frame and underbody parts. A minimum clearance
of 25.4 mm (1.0 in.) is required.
6. Start the vehicle and inspect for exhaust leaks. Repair exhaust leaks as necessary.
7. Check the exhaust system for contact with the body panels. Make adjustments, if necessary.
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1. Position the front exhaust pipe and catalytic converter assembly (3) into the mount at the transmission (if
equipped) and onto the exhaust manifold flange connection.
2. Install the nuts at the front exhaust pipe and catalytic converter assembly to muffler flange. Do not
tighten.
3. Position the exhaust pipe for proper clearance with the frame and underbody parts. A minimum clearance
of 25.4 mm (1.0 in.) is required.
4. Tighten the bolt (1) at exhaust manifold to 27 N.m (19 in. lbs.) torque.
5. Tighten the front exhaust pipe and catalytic converter assembly to muffler flange nuts to 27 N.m (19 ft.
lbs.) torque.
6. Position the front pipe onto the exhaust manifold flange connection. Tighten the clamp to 10 N.m (95 in.
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lbs.) torque.
7. Connect oxygen sensor electrical connectors.
9. Start the vehicle and inspect for exhaust leaks. Repair exhaust leaks as necessary.
10. Check the exhaust system for contact with the body panels. Make adjustments, if necessary.
MUFFLER
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 10: Muffler/Resonator Assembly

1 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER PIPE

2 - CLAMP
3 - MUFFLER/RESONATOR/TAILPIPE ASSEMBLY
4 - HANGER ROD

2. Remove exhaust pipe to muffler and tailpipe assembly clamp nuts (2).
3. Using a suitable pry bar, pry muffler and tailpipe assembly out of exhaust hanger.
4. Remove muffler and tailpipe assembly (3) from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 11: Muffler/Resonator Assembly

1 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER PIPE

2 - CLAMP
3 - MUFFLER/RESONATOR/TAILPIPE ASSEMBLY
4 - HANGER ROD
1. Install muffler and tailpipe assembly in vehicle and attach to exhaust hangers.
2. Install muffler and tailpipe assembly to exhaust pipe.
3. Install clamp. Tighten nut to 32 N.m. (24 ft. lbs.).
4. Lower vehicle from hoist.
SHIELDS-HEAT
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 12: Front & Rear Floor Pan Heat Shields Typical
1 - REAR FLOOR PAN HEAT SHIELD

2 - HEAT SHIELD RETAINING NUTS
3 - FRONT FLOOR PAN HEAT SHIELD
Heat shields (1) (3) are needed to protect both the vehicle and the environment from the high temperatures
developed by the catalytic converter. The catalytic converter releases additional heat into the exhaust system.
Under severe operating conditions, the temperature increases in the area of the converter. Such conditions can
exist when the engine misfires or otherwise does not operate at peak efficiency. See Fig. 12.
FILTER-DIESEL PARTICULATE
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
A diesel particulate filter DPF is installed for exhaust gas after-treatment. The DPF is located downstream of the
main oxidation catalyst. The DPF filters, stores and burns particulate matter (soot) that is generated during the
combustion process. The soot is oxidized to carbon dioxide CO2 at exhaust temperatures over 600°C (1,112°F).
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OPERATION
OPERATION
The oxidation catalysts raise the exhaust gas temperatures to regenerate the DPF , which is passive regeneration.
If the passive regeneration cannot keep up with the build up of soot in the DPF, the ECM will actively
regenerate the DPF to burn off the soot. Residue remains inside the DPF in the form of non burnable ash. Ash
comes from the oils and other materials that are trapped in the oils and are present in the soot. Ash is not
eliminated by the regeneration cycle. Excessive ash accumulation requires the replacement of the DPF. The
DPF uses a silicon carbide wall-flow monolith with a platinum coating to trap particulates. The monolith
contains a large number of square parallel channels, which run in the axial direction and are separated by thin
porous walls. The channels are alternatively open at one end, but plugged at the other. The exhaust gases flow
through the walls and escape through the pores in the wall material. Particulates, however, are too large to
escape and are trapped in the monolith walls. The ECM starts the regeneration of the DPF if the soot load
exceeds a performance map value. The ECM determines the load condition of the DPF based upon the exhaust
gas pressure upstream and downstream of the DPF. A pressure differential sensor provides the pressure input to
the ECM. During the regeneration process, the ECM raises the temperature in the DPF to burn off the soot
accumulated. Under normal operation, the engine does not produce enough heat to oxidize the soot inside the
DPF. This process requires temperatures above 550°C (1,022°F). After regeneration, the ECM reads the actual
pressure difference at the DPF and compares it with a reference value. From this comparison, the ECM
determines the ash quantity inside the DPF.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL

1 - MANIVERTER
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4 - STEADY MOUNT
6 - ISOLATOR

3. Disconnect differential pressure hoses from pressure sensor tubing (3).
4. Disconnect oxygen sensor electrical connector.
5. Remove muffler and tail pipe to DFP flange nuts.
6. Remove the DFP to exhaust manifold nuts.
7. Remove steady rest mounting bolts (4).
8. Remove the diesel particulate filter assembly.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION

1 - MANIVERTER
4 - STEADY MOUNT
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6 - ISOLATOR
1. Position diesel particulate filter assembly in vehicle.

2. Install DPF to exhaust manifold bolts. Do not tighten at this time.
3. Install muffler/tailpipe to DPF flange nuts. Tighten nut to 32 N.m. (24 ft. lbs.).
4. Tighten DPF to exhaust manifold bolts to 32 N.m (24 ft. lbs.) Tighten muffler/tailpipe to DPF flange nuts
to 34 N.m (24 ft. lbs.).
5. Lower vehicle.
6. Using scan tool, under ENGINE MISC. FUNCTIONS, perform DIESEL PARTICULATE FILTER
REPLACEMENT function.
TURBOCHARGER
TURBOCHARGER-BOOST PRESSURE
Low turbocharger boost pressure can cause poor engine performance and driveability concerns. The following
procedure will test the turbocharger boost pressure.
Causes of low boost pressure include the following:
Restricted air inlet system

Leak in charge air cooler system
Restricted/high pressure drop across charge air cooler
Damaged turbocharger compressor wheel housing
Turbocharger wastegate stuck open
Excessive exhaust restriction
Causes of excessively high boost pressure include:
Turbocharger wastegate stuck closed

Turbocharger wastegate signal line leaking or damaged
Damaged wastegate command valve O-rings
Wastegate command valve mechanically stuck in actuated position
Several Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) can be set that will indicate high or low system boost levels. There is
a DTC for circuit faults relating to the electronically controlled wastegate command valve.
See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING for diagnosing of low or high boost pressure due to leaks.
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TURBOCHARGER
DESCRIPTION
TURBOCHARGER-DESCRIPTION
Fig. 15: Identifying Turbocharger Components

1 - TURBINE SECTION
2 - EXHAUST GAS
3 - BEARING HOUSING
4 - COMPRESSOR SECTION
5 - INLET AIR
6 - COMPRESSED AIR TO ENGINE
7 - EXHAUST GAS
8 - EXHAUST GAS TO EXHAUST PIPE
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CAUTION: The turbocharger is a performance part and must not be tampered with.
The wastegate bracket is an integral part of the turbocharger. Tampering
with the wastegate components can reduce durability by increasing
cylinder pressure and thermal loading due to incorrect inlet and exhaust
manifold pressure. Poor fuel economy and failure to meet regulatory
emissions laws may result. Increasing the turbocharger boost WILL NOT
increase engine power.
The turbocharger is an exhaust-driven supercharger which increases the pressure and density of the air entering
the engine through the charge air cooler. With the increase of air entering the engine, more fuel can be injected
into the cylinders, which creates more power during combustion.
The turbocharger assembly consists of four (5) major component systems. See Fig. 15
Turbine section
Compressor section
Bearing housing
Variable veins
Actuator
OPERATION
OPERATION
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Fig. 16: Turbocharger Oil Supply & Drain

1 - BEARINGS
2 - OIL SUPPLY (FROM ENGINE BLOCK)
3 - OIL RETURN (TO OIL PAN)
Exhaust gas pressure and energy drive the turbine, which in turn drives a centrifugal compressor that
compresses the inlet air, and forces the air into the engine through the charge air cooler and plumbing. Since
heat is a by-product of this compression, the air must pass through a charge air cooler to cool the incoming air
and maintain power and efficiency.
Increasing air flow to the engine provides:
Improved engine performance

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Lower exhaust smoke density

Improved operating economy
Altitude compensation
Noise reduction.
The turbocharger is lubricated by engine oil that is pressurized, cooled, and filtered. The oil is delivered to the
turbocharger by a supply line (2) that is tapped into the engine block. The oil travels into the bearing housing,
where it lubricates the shaft (1) and bearings. See Fig. 16. A return pipe (3) at the bottom of the bearing
housing, routes the engine oil back to the crankcase.
The most common turbocharger failure is bearing failure related to repeated hot shutdowns with inadequate
"cool-down" periods. A sudden engine shut down after prolonged operation will result in the transfer of heat
from the turbine section of the turbocharger to the bearing housing. This causes the oil to overheat and break
down, which causes bearing and shaft damage the next time the vehicle is started.
Letting the engine idle after extended operation allows the turbine housing to cool to normal operating
temperature. The following chart should be used as a guide in determining the amount of engine idle time
required to sufficiently cool down the turbocharger before shut down, depending upon the type of driving and
the amount of cargo.
TURBOCHARGER "COOL DOWN" CHART

Driving Load Turbocharger Idle Time (in minutes)
Condition - Temperature Before Shut Down
Stop & Go Empty Cool Less than 1
Stop & Go Medium Warm 1
Highway Speeds Medium Warm 2
City Traffic Max. GCWR Warm 3
Highway Speeds Max. GCWR Warm 4
Uphill Grade Max. GCWR Hot 5
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 17: Exhaust Manifold And Turbocharger Assembly

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1 - EGR VALVE MOUNTING STUDS

3 - TURBOCHARGER TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD MOUNTING STUDS
4 - TURBOCHARGER ASSEMBLY
5 - TURBOCHARGER OIL RETURN FITTING ATTACHING BOLT
6 - TURBOCHARGER OIL RETURN FITTING
7 - OIL RETURN FITTING GASKET
8 - RETAINING NUT
9 - TURBOCHARGER TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKET

2. Disconnect the MAF and Inlet air pressure sensors wiring harness connectors, disconnect the air outlet
duct from the turbocharger, and remove air cleaner assembly. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove charge air cooler inlet hose from turbocharger. See REMOVAL.
5. Remove coolant recovery pressure container. Refer to REMOVAL .
6. Disconnect the turbocharger actuator vacuum hose and position aside.
7. Remove turbocharger upper heat shield.
9. Remove the lower splash shield.
10. Disconnect the front exhaust pipe from the turbocharger.
11. Remove the turbocharger support bracket.
12. Disconnect turbocharger oil return line at turbocharger.
14. Remove the turbocharger oil supply line.
15. Remove turbocharger to exhaust manifold retaining nuts and separate turbocharger from exhaust
manifold.
CLEANING
CLEANING
All old gaskets should be inspected for any tears or signs of prior leakage. If any gaskets show such indications,
they should be replaced with new gaskets. All gasket mating surfaces must be cleaned of old gasket material to
produce a smooth and dirt free sealing surface for the new gasket.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
1. Connect turbocharger to exhaust manifold with new gasket. Torque retaining nuts to 32 N.m.
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NOTE: After tightening the exhaust manifold to specification using a diagonal-

cross pattern, retrace the pattern checking the correct torque value again.
2. Install exhaust manifold and turbocharger assembly with new gasket in position on studs in cylinder head.
Install retaining nuts and tighten to 36 N.m.
3. Install thermostat housing. Refer to INSTALLATION .
6. Connect turbocharger oil return line at turbocharger.
7. Connect exhaust pipe at turbocharger downpipe.
8. Lower vehicle from hoist.
9. Connect oil supply line at turbocharger. Tighten banjo fitting to 24 N.m (18 ft. lbs.).
10. Install exhaust manifold heat shield. Tighten retaining bolts to 24 N.m (18 ft. lbs.).
11. Reposition EGR cooler and or EGR valve assembly on exhaust manifold. Tighten retaining nuts and bolt
to 32.4N.m.
12. Connect EGR pipe to EGR valve. Torque bolts to 32 N.m (24 ft. lbs.).
13. Connect EGR cooler coolant hoses at cooler.
14. Install coolant recovery pressure container. Refer to INSTALLATION .
15. Refill cooling system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
16. Connect charge air cooler inlet hose at turbocharger.
17. Install air cleaner assembly.
18. Connect air inlet hose to turbocharger.
CHARGE AIR COOLER AND PLUMBING
LEAKS
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Fig. 18: Air Inlet Duct Rubber Sleeve, Air Inlet Duct, Clamp & Turbocharger
1 - CLAMP
2 - TURBOCHARGER
3 - AIR DUCT RUBBER SLEEVE
4 - AIR INLET DUCT
Low turbocharger boost pressure and low engine performance can be caused by leaks in the charge air cooler or
plumbing. Fuel staining on the exhaust manifold can also be an indication that there are leaks in the air system.
The following procedure outlines how to check for leaks in the charge air cooler system.
This procedure can also be used to check for leaks in the wastegate signal line or the wastegate canister.
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1. Loosen clamp (1) and remove air inlet hose (3) from turbocharger.
2. Insert Special Tool 9022 Adapter into the turbocharger inlet. Tighten tool clamp to 8 N.m (72 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: Do not apply more than 138 kPa (20 psi) air pressure to the charge air
cooler system; severe damage to the charge air cooler system may
occur.
3. Connect a regulated air supply to air fitting on Tool 9022 Adapter. Set air pressure to a maximum of 138
kPa (20 psi).
4. Using soapy water check the rubber sleeves, charge air cooler and intake manifold for leaks.
5. Using soapy water check for leaks at the wastegate signal line, wastegate canister and wastegate
command valve.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL-INLET HOSE
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Fig. 19: Charge Air Cooler, Hose Clamps, Charge Air Cooler Inlet Hose
1 - CHARGE AIR COOLER

2 - HOSE CLAMP
3 - CHARGE AIR COOLER INLET HOSE
4 - HOSE CLAMP
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1. Open and support hood of vehicle.

2. Loosen hose clamps at both ends of charge air cooler (CAC) inlet hose. See Fig. 19.
3. Remove CAC inlet hose (3) from turbocharger and CAC.
REMOVAL-OUTLET HOSE
Fig. 20: Charge Air Cooler, Hose Clamps, Intake Manifold Inlet & Charge Air Cooler Outlet Hose
1 - CHARGE AIR COOLER

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2 - HOSE CLAMP
3 - INTAKE MANIFOLD INLET
4 - HOSE CLAMP
5 - CHARGE AIR COOLER OUTLET HOSE
1. Raise and support hood on vehicle.

2. Loosen hose clamps at both ends of charge air cooler (CAC) outlet hose (5). See Fig. 20.
3. Remove hose (5) from CAC and intake manifold inlet. See Fig. 20.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION-INLET HOSE
1. Install charge air cooler (CAC) inlet hose on turbocharger and CAC.
2. Tighten hose clamps.
3. Close hood.
INSTALLATION-OUTLET HOSE
1. Install charge air cooler (CAC) outlet hose on CAC and intake manifold inlet.
2. Tighten both hose clamp on CAC outlet hose.
3. Close hood.
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2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Lamps/Lighting - Exterior - Electrical/Diagnostics - Nitro
Lamps/Lighting - Exterior - Electrical/Diagnostics - Nitro

DTC Description
B162B LEFT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B162C LT LOW BEAM CONTROL CKT HI
B162F RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B1630 RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B1633 LEFT HI BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B1634 LEFT HI BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B1637 RIGHT HI BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B1638 RIGHT HI BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B163B FRONT LEFT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B163C FRONT LEFT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B163F FRONT RIGHT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B1640 FRONT RIGHT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B1643 REAR LEFT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B1644 REAR LEFT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B1644 RIGHT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B1647 REAR RIGHT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B1648 REAR RIGHT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B165C PARK LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B165D PARK LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B166C LEFT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B166F RIGHT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B1670 RIGHT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B16B1 LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B16F8 FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B16F9 FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B16FC FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
B16FD FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B17B8 LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT
B17BA HEADLAMP LEVELING MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT
B17BD LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B17BF LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT
B17C2 RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B17C4 RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT
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LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR-ELECTRICAL/DIAGNOSTICS
B162B-LEFT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
With the Headlamps activated.
Set Condition:
When the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) detects a LOW condition.
Possible Causes
(L43) LEFT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
LEFT LOW BEAM BULB
Diagnostic Test
Turn the Headlamps on.
Does the scan tool display active: B162B-LEFT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
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2) LEFT LOW BEAM BULB
Disconnect the Left Low Beam Bulb.
Does the DTC reset?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Replace the Left Low Beam Bulb in accordance with the Service Information.
3) (L43) LEFT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 1: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (L43) Left Low Beam Control Circuit
Disconnect the TIPM C3 harness connector.
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Disconnect the Left Headlamp harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L43) Left Low Beam Control circuit.
Is the resistance above 10k ohms?
Yes
Replace the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) in accordance with the Service Information.
No
Repair the (L43) Left Low Beam Control circuit for a short to ground.
B162C-LT LOW BEAM CONTROL CKT HI
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
When the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) detects an OPEN condition when the low beam is on.
Possible Causes
CHECK (L911) LEFT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL
(L911) LEFT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL
CHECK (L43) LEFT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT
(L43) LEFT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
LEFT LOW BEAM BULB
Diagnostic Test
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Does the scan tool display active: B162C-LEFT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK (L911) LEFT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL
Disconnect the Left Low Beam Lamp harness connector.
With a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (L911) left headlamp return signal circuit.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
3) (L911) LEFT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL
Measure the resistance of the (L911) left headlamp return signal circuit at the Left Low Beam harness
connector.
Yes
Replace the Inoperative bulb in accordance with the Service Information.

No
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Repair the (L911) left headlamp return signal circuit for an open.
4) CHECK (L43) LEFT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT
Fig. 2: Checking (L43) Left Low Beam Control Circuit

With a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check the (L43) Left Low Beam Control circuit.
Does the test light illuminate brightly with the headlamps switch turned on, and shut off with the
headlamps turned off?
Yes

No
Go to 5).
5) (L43) LEFT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (L43) Left Low Beam Control circuit between the Left Low Beam harness
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connector and the TIPM C3 harness connector.
Yes
No
Repair the (L43) Left Low Beam Control circuit for an open.
B162F-RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
When the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) detects a SHORT condition when the right low beam
is on.
Possible Causes
(L44) RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
RIGHT LOW BEAM BULB
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B162F-RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW?
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Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) RIGHT LOW BEAM BULB
Disconnect the Right Low Beam Bulb.
Does the DTC reset?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Replace the Right Low Beam Bulb in accordance with the Service Information.
3) (L44) RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
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Fig. 3: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (L44) Right Low Beam Control Circuit
Disconnect the Right Headlamp harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L44) Right Low Beam Control circuit.
Yes
No
Repair the (L44) Right Low Beam Control circuit for a short to ground.
B1630-RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
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Continuously.
Set Condition:
When the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) detects a HIGH condition.
Possible Causes
CHECK (L910) RIGHT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL
(L910) RIGHT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL
CHECK (L44) RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT
(L44) RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L44) RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
RIGHT LOW BEAM BULB
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B1630-RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK (L910) RIGHT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL
Disconnect the Right Low Beam Lamp harness connector.

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With a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (L910) right headlamp return signal circuit.
Does the test light illuminate brightly on each ground circuit?
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
3) (L910) RIGHT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL
Measure the resistance of the (L910) right headlamp return signal circuit at the Right Low Beam harness
connector.
Yes

No
Repair the (L910) right headlamp return signal circuit for an open.
4) CHECK (L44) RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT
With a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check the (L44) Right Low Beam Control circuit.
Yes

No
Go to 5).
5) (L44) RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
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Fig. 4: Measuring Resistance Of (L44) Right Low Beam Control Circuit Between Right Low Beam
Harness Connector And TIPM C3 Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (L44) Right Low Beam Control circuit between the Right Low Beam
harness connector and the TIPM C3 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Repair the (L44) Right Low Beam Control circuit for an open.
6) (L44) RIGHT LOW BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
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Fig. 5: Measuring For Voltage On (L44) Right Low Beam Control Circuit
Measure for voltage on the (L44) Right Low Beam Control circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L44) Right Low Beam Control circuit for a short to voltage.
No
B1633-LEFT HI BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Microsoft
Possible Causes
(L33) LEFT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
LEFT HIGH BEAM BULB
Diagnostic Test
Turn the High Beam Lamps on.
Does the scan tool display active: B1633-LEFT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) LEFT HIGH BEAM BULB
Disconnect the Left High Beam Bulb.
Does the DTC reset?
Yes
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Go to 3).
No
Replace the Left High Beam Bulb in accordance with the Service Information.
3) (L33) LEFT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 6: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (L33) Left High Beam Control Circuit
Disconnect the Left Headlamp harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L33) Left High Beam Control circuit.
Yes
No
Repair the (L33) Left High Beam Control circuit for a short to ground.
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B1634-LEFT HI BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
CHECK (L911) LEFT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL
(L911) LEFT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL OPEN
CHECK (L33) LEFT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT
(L33) LEFT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L33) LEFT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
LEFT HIGH BEAM BULB
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B1634-LEFT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
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2) CHECK (L911) LEFT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL
Disconnect the Left High Beam Lamp harness connector.
With a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (L911) left headlamp return signal circuit.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
3) (L911) LEFT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL
Measure the resistance of the (L911) left headlamp return signal circuit at the Left High Beam harness
connector.
Yes

No
Repair the (L911) left headlamp return signal circuit for an open.
4) CHECK (L33) LEFT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT
With a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check the (L33) Left High Beam Control circuit.
Yes
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No
Go to 5).
5) (L33) LEFT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (L33) Left High Beam Control Circuit between the Left Headlamp harness
connector and the TIPM C3 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Repair the (L33) Left High Beam Control circuit for an open.
6) (L33) LEFT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Measure for voltage on the (L33) Left High Beam Control circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L33) Left High Beam Control circuit for a short to voltage.
No
B1637-RIGHT HI BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
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When Monitored:
With the High Beam Headlamps activated.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(L34) RIGHT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
RIGHT HIGH BEAM BULB
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B1637-RIGHT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) RIGHT HIGH BEAM BULB
Disconnect the Right High Beam Bulb.
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Does the DTC reset?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Replace the Right High Beam Bulb in accordance with the Service Information.
3) (L34) RIGHT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Disconnect the Right Headlamp harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the Right High Beam Control circuit.
Yes
No
Repair the (L34) Right High Beam Control circuit for a short to ground.
B1638-RIGHT HI BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Microsoft
Possible Causes
CHECK (L910) RIGHT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL CIRCUIT
(L910) RIGHT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
CHECK (L34) RIGHT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT
(L34) RIGHT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L34) RIGHT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
RIGHT HIGH BEAM BULB
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B1638-RIGHT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK (L910) RIGHT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL CIRCUIT
Disconnect the Right High Beam Lamp harness connector.
With a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the (L910) right headlamp return signal circuit.

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Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
3) (L910) RIGHT HEADLAMP RETURN SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (L910) right headlamp return signal circuit at the Right High Beam harness
connector.
Yes

No
Repair the (L910) right headlamp return signal circuit for an open.
4) CHECK (L34) RIGHT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT
With a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check the (L34) Right High Beam Control circuit.
Yes

No
Go to 5).
5) (L34) RIGHT HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN

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Measure the resistance of the (L34) Right High Beam Control circuit between the Right Headlamp
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Repair the (L34) Right High Beam Control circuit for an open.
6) (L34) HIGH BEAM CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Measure for voltage on the (L34) High Beam Control circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L34) High Beam Control circuit for a short to voltage.
No
B163B-FRONT LEFT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
With the Turn Signal activated.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(L61) FRONT LEFT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
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FRONT LEFT TURN SIGNAL BULB

Diagnostic Test
Turn the Left Turn Signal on.
Does the scan tool display active: B163B-FRONT LEFT TURN LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) FRONT LEFT TURN SIGNAL BULB
Disconnect the Front Left Turn Signal Bulb.
Does the DTC reset?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
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Replace the Front Left Turn Signal Bulb in accordance with the Service Information.
3) (L61) FRONT LEFT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Disconnect the Front Left Turn Signal Lamp harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L61) Front Left Turn Signal Control circuit.
Yes
No
Repair the (L61) Front Left Turn Signal Control circuit for a short to ground.
B163C-FRONT LEFT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
CHECK (Z904) GROUND CIRCUIT
CHECK (L61) FRONT LEFT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT
(L61) FRONT LEFT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L61) FRONT LEFT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
FRONT LEFT TURN LAMP BULB
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Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B163C-FRONT LEFT TURN LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Disconnect the Front Left Turn Signal Lamp assembly harness connector.
With a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe each (Z904) Ground circuit.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
3) (Z904) GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the appropriate (Z904) Ground circuit(s) at the Front Left Turn Signal Lamp
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assembly harness connector.
Yes

No
Repair the appropriate (Z904) Ground circuit(s) for an open.

4) CHECK (L61) FRONT LEFT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT
With the Left Turn Signal still on and a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check the (L61) Front Left
Turn Signal Control circuit.
Does the test light blink brightly from on to off with the turn signal indicator?
Yes

No
Go to 5).
5) (L61) FRONT LEFT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (L61) Front Left Turn Signal Control circuit between the Front Left Turn
Signal Lamp assembly harness connector and the TIPM C3 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 6).
Microsoft
No
Repair the (L61) Front Left Turn Lamp Control circuit for an open.
6) (L61) FRONT LEFT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure for voltage on the (L61) Front Left Turn Signal Control circuit.
No
Repair the (L61) Front Left Turn Signal Control circuit for a short to voltage.
Yes
B163F-FRONT RIGHT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(L60) FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL BULB
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Turn the Right Turn Signal on.
Does the scan tool display active: B163F-FRONT RIGHT TURN LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL BULB
Disconnect the Front Right Turn Signal Bulb.
Does the DTC reset?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Replace the Front Right Turn Signal Bulb in accordance with the Service Information.
3) (L60) FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Microsoft
Disconnect the Right Front Turn Signal Lamp harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L60) Right Front Turn Signal Control circuit.
Yes
No
Repair the (L60) Right Front Turn Signal Control circuit for a short to ground.
B1640-FRONT RIGHT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
CHECK (L60) FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT
(L60) FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L60) FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL BULB
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Does the scan tool display active: B1640-FRONT RIGHT TURN LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Disconnect the Front Right Turn Signal Lamp assembly harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
Measure the resistance of the appropriate (Z904) Ground circuit(s) at the Front Right Turn Signal Lamp
Yes

Microsoft
No

4) CHECK (L60) FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT
With the Right Turn Signal still on and a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check the (L60) Front
Right Turn Signal Control circuit.
Yes

No
Go to 5).
5) (L60) FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (L60) Front Right Turn Signal Control circuit between the Front Right Turn
Signal Lamp assembly harness connector and the TIPM C3 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Repair the (L60) Front Right Turn Signal Control circuit for an open.
6) (L60) RIGHT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure for voltage on the (L60) Front Right Turn Signal Control circuit.
Microsoft
No
Repair the (L60) Front Right Turn Signal Control circuit for a short to voltage.
Yes
B1643-REAR LEFT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(L63) REAR LEFT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
REAR LEFT TURN SIGNAL BULB
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B1643-REAR LEFT TURN LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
Microsoft
No
2) REAR LEFT TURN SIGNAL BULB
Disconnect the Rear Left Turn Signal Bulb.
Does the DTC reset?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Replace the Rear Left Turn Signal Bulb in accordance with the Service Information.
3) (L63) LEFT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Disconnect the Left Rear Tail Lamp harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L63) Rear Left Turn Signal Control circuit.
Yes
No
Microsoft
Repair the (L63) Rear Left Turn Signal Control circuit for a short to ground.
B1644-REAR LEFT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
CHECK (L63) LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT
(L63) LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L63) LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B1644-REAR LEFT TURN LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Microsoft
Disconnect the Left Rear Turn Signal Lamp assembly harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
Measure the resistance of the appropriate (Z910) Ground circuit(s) at the Left Rear Turn Signal Lamp
Yes

No

4) CHECK (L63) LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT
With the Left Turn Signal still on and a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check the (L63) Left Rear
Turn Signal Control circuit.
Microsoft
Yes

No
Go to 5).
5) (L63) LEFT TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (L63) Left Rear Turn Signal Control circuit between the Left Rear Tail
Lamp assembly harness connector and the TIPM C7 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Repair the (L63) Left Rear Turn Signal Control circuit for an open.
6) (L63) LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure for voltage on the (L63) Left Rear Turn Signal Control circuit.
Yes
Repair short to voltage on the (L63) Left Rear Turn Signal Control circuit.
No
Microsoft
B1644-RIGHT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
CHECK (L54) RIGHT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
(L54) RIGHT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L54) RIGHT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
RIGHT STOP LAMP BULB
Diagnostic Test
With the scan tool, clear all DTC's
Turn the Stop Lamps on.
Does the scan tool display active: B16B5-RIGHT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Microsoft
Disconnect the Right Rear Tail Lamp harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
Measure the resistance of the appropriate (Z920) Ground circuit(s) at the Right Rear Tail Lamp assembly
harness connector.
Yes

No

4) CHECK (L54) RIGHT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
With the Stop Lamps still on and a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check the (L54) Right Stop
Lamp Control circuit.
Yes

Microsoft
No
Go to 5).
5) (L54) RIGHT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Disconnect the TIPM C7 connector.
Measure the resistance of the (L54) Right Stop Lamp Control circuit between the Right Rear Tail Lamp
No
Go to 6).
Yes
Repair the (L54) Right Stop Lamp Control circuit for an open.
6) (L54) RIGHT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure the voltage between (L54) Right Stop Lamp Control circuit and ground.
Yes
Repair the (L54) Right Stop Lamp Control circuit for a short to voltage.
No
B1647-REAR RIGHT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
Microsoft
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(L62) RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL BULB
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B1647-REAR RIGHT TURN LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) REAR RIGHT TURN SIGNAL BULB
Disconnect the Right Rear Turn Signal Bulb.

Microsoft
Does the DTC reset?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Replace the Right Rear Turn Signal Bulb in accordance with the Service Information.
3) (L62) RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Disconnect the Right Rear Tail Lamp harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L62) Right Rear Turn Signal Control circuit.
Yes
No
Repair the (L62) Right Rear Turn Signal Control circuit for a short to ground.
B1648-REAR RIGHT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
Microsoft

CHECK (L62) RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT
(L62) RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L62) RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B1648-REAR RIGHT TURN LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Disconnect the Right Rear Turn Signal Lamp assembly harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
Microsoft
No
Go to 3).
Measure the resistance of the appropriate (Z910) Ground circuit(s) at the Right Rear Turn Signal Lamp
Yes

No

4) CHECK (L62) RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT
With the Right Turn Signal still on and a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check the (L62) Right
Rear Turn Signal Control circuit.
Yes

No
Go to 5).
5) (L62) RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (L62) Right Rear Turn Signal Control circuit between the Right Rear Tail
Microsoft
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Repair the (L62) Right Rear Turn Lamp Control circuit for an open.
6) (L62) RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure for voltage on the (L62) Right Rear Turn Signal Control circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L62) Right Rear Turn Signal Control circuit for a short to voltage.
No
B165C-PARK LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
With the Park Lamps activated.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(L17) (L217) FUSED PARK LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Turn the Park Lamps on.
Does the scan tool display active: B165C-PARK LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (L17)(L217) FUSED PARK LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Disconnect the Park Lamp harness connectors.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L17) (L217) Fused Park Lamp Control circuits.
Yes
No
Repair the (L17)(L217) Fused Park Lamp Control circuits for a short to ground.
Microsoft
B165D-PARK LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(L17)(L217) FUSED PARK LAMP CONTROL CIRCUITS OPEN
Diagnostic Test
Turn the Park Lamps on.
Does the scan tool display active: B165D-PARK LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (L17)(L217) FUSED PARK LAMP CONTROL CIRCUITS OPEN

Microsoft
Disconnect the Park Lamp harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (L17)(L217) Fused Park Lamp Control circuits between the Park Lamp
Harness Connectors and the TIPM C5 harness connector.
Does the ohm meter read open circuit?
Yes
Repair the (L17)(L217) Fused Park Lamp Control circuits for an open.
No
B166C-LEFT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
The Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) detects an HIGH condition.
Possible Causes
(L673) LEFT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L673) LEFT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Diagnostic Test
Turn on the Left Turn Signal.

Microsoft
Does the scan tool display active: B166C-LEFT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (L673) LEFT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Disconnect the Left Trailer Tow Lamp harness connectors.
Measure the resistance of the (L673) Left Trailer Tow Lamp Control circuit between the Left Trailer Tow
Lamp harness connectors and the TIPM C6 harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (L673) Left Trailer Tow Lamp Control circuit for an open.
No
Go to 3).
3) (L673) LEFT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure the voltage on the (L673) Left Trailer Tow Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L673) Left Trailer Tow Lamp Control circuit for a short to voltage.
Microsoft
No
B166F-RIGHT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
The Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) Detects a LOW condition.
Possible Causes
(L674) RIGHT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Diagnostic Test
Turn on the Right Turn Signal.
Does the scan tool display active: B166F-RIGHT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Microsoft
2) (L674) RIGHT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L674) Right Trailer Tow Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
No
Repair the (L674) Right Trailer Tow Lamp Control circuit for a short to ground.
B1670-RIGHT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Continuously
Set Condition:
The Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) Detects a HIGH condition.
Possible Causes
(L674) RIGHT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L674) RIGHT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Diagnostic Test

Microsoft
Turn on the Right Turn Signal.
Does the scan tool display active: B1670-RIGHT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (L674) RIGHT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Disconnect the Right Trailer Tow Lamp harness connectors.
Measure the resistance of the (L674) Right Trailer Tow Lamp Control circuit between the Right Trailer
Tow Lamp harness connectors and the TIPM C6 harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (L674) Right Trailer Tow Lamp Control circuit for an open.
No
Go to 3).
3) (L674) RIGHT TRAILER TOW LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure the voltage on the (L674) Right Trailer Tow Lamp Control circuit.
Microsoft
Yes
Repair the (L674) Right Trailer Tow Lamp Control circuit for a short to voltage.
No
B16B1-LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
CHECK (L53) LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
(L53) LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L53) LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
LEFT STOP LAMP BULB
Diagnostic Test
Turn the Stop Lamps on.
Microsoft
Does the scan tool display active: B16B1-LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Disconnect the Left Rear Tail Lamp harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
Measure the resistance of the appropriate (Z919) Ground circuit(s) at the Left Rear Tail Lamp assembly
harness connector.
Yes

No
Microsoft

4) CHECK (L53) LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
With the Stop Lamps still on and a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check the (L53) Left Stop
Lamp Control circuit.
Yes

No
Go to 5).
5) (L53) LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (L53) Left Rear Turn Signal Control circuit between the Left Rear Tail
Lamp harness connector and the TIPM C7 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Repair the (L53) Turn Signal Control circuit for an open.

6) (L53) LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure for voltage on the (L53) Left Stop Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
Microsoft
Repair the (L53) Left Stop Lamp Control circuit for a short to voltage.
No
B16F8-FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
With the Front Fog Lamps activated.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(L89) FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP BULB
Diagnostic Test
Turn the Front Fog Lamps on.
Does the scan tool display active: B16F8-FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Microsoft
2) FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP BULB
Disconnect the Front Left Fog Lamp Bulb.
Does the DTC reset?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Replace the Front Left Fog Lamp Bulb in accordance with the Service Information.
3) (L89) FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L89) Front Left Fog Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
No
Repair the (L89) Front Left Fog Lamp Control circuit for a short to ground.
B16F9-FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
Microsoft
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
CHECK (L89) FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
(L89) FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L89) FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP BULB
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B16F9-FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Microsoft
Disconnect the Front Left Fog Lamp harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
Measure the resistance of the appropriate (Z904) Ground circuit(s) at the Front Left Fog Lamp harness
connector.
Yes

No

4) CHECK (L89) FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
With a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check the (L89) Front Left Fog Lamp Control circuit.
Does the test light illuminate brightly with the fog lamp switch turned on, and shut off with the fog
lamps turned off?
Yes

Microsoft
No
Go to 5).
5) (L89) FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance between the (L89) Front Left Fog Lamp Control circuit and the Front Left Fog
Lamp harness connector to the TIPM C4 connector.
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Repair the (L89) Front Left Fog Lamp Control circuit for an open.
6) (L89) FRONT LEFT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure the voltage of the (L89) Front Left Fog Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L89) Front Left Fog Lamp Control circuit for a short to voltage.
No
B16FC-FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
For a complete wiring diagram refer to appropriate Wiring Diagram article.
When Monitored:
Microsoft
With the Front Fog Lamps activated.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(L90) FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP BULB
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B16FC- FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP BULB
Disconnect the Front Right Fog Lamp Bulb.

Microsoft
Does the DTC reset?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Replace the Front Right Fog Lamp Bulb in accordance with the Service Information.
3) (L90) FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Measure the resistance between ground and the Front Right Fog Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
No
Repair the (L90) Front Right Fog Lamp Control circuit for a short to ground.
B16FD-FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
CHECK (L90) FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
Microsoft
(L90) FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN

(L90) FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP BULB
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B16FD-FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Disconnect the Front Right Fog Lamp assembly harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
Microsoft
Measure the resistance of the appropriate (Z904) Ground circuit(s) at the Front Right Fog Lamp harness
connector.
Yes

No

4) CHECK (L90) FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
With a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check the (L90) Front Right Fog Lamp Control circuit.
Does the test light illuminate brightly with the fog lamp switch turned on, and shut off with the fog
lamps turned off?
Yes

No
Go to 5).
5) (L90) FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (L90) Front Right Fog Lamp Control circuit between the Front Right Fog
Lamp assembly harness connector and the TIPM C4 connector.
Yes
Microsoft
Go to 6).
No
Repair the (L90) Front Right Fog Lamp Control circuit for an open.
6) (L90) FRONT RIGHT FOG LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure the voltage of the (L90) Front Right Fog Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L90) Front Right Fog Lamp Control circuit for a short to voltage.
No
B17B8-LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
When the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) detects a OVERCURRENT condition.
Possible Causes
(L53) LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(L53) LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Turn the Left Turn Signals on.
Does the scan tool read active: B17B8-LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
OVERCURRENT?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) LEFT STOP LAMP BULB
Remove Left Stop Lamp Bulb.
Inspect the Left Stop Lamp Bulb.
Is the inoperative bulb OK?
Yes
Go to 3).
No

3) (L53) LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Disconnect the Left Stop Lamp harness connector.
Microsoft
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L53) Left Stop Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (L53) Left Stop Lamp Control circuit for a short to ground.
4) (L53) LEFT STOP LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure for voltage on the (L53) Left Stop Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L53) Left Stop Lamp Control circuit short to voltage.
No
B17BA-HEADLAMP LEVELING MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(L133) HEADLAMP LEVELING MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(L133) HEADLAMP LEVELING MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Microsoft
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B17BA-HEADLAMP LEVELING MOTOR CONTROL
CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (L133) HEADLAMP LEVELING MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Disconnect the Headlamp harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L133) Headlamp Leveling Motor Control circuit.
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Microsoft
Repair the (L133) Headlamp Leveling Motor Control circuit for a short to ground.
3) (L133) HEADLAMP LEVELING MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure for voltage on the (L133) Headlamp Leveling Motor Control circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L133) Headlamp Leveling Motor Control circuit short to voltage.
No
B17BD-LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(L163) LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L163) LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Does the scan tool display active: B17BD-LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL BULB
Remove Left Rear Turn Signal Bulb.
Inspect the Left Rear Turn Signal Bulb.
Yes
Go to 3).
No

3) (L163) LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Disconnect the Left Sidemarker Lamp assembly harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (L163) Left Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit between the Left Sidemarker

Microsoft
Yes
Repair the (L163) Left Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit for an open.
No
Go to 4).
4) (L163) LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure for voltage on the (L163) Left Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L163) Left Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit short to voltage.
No
B17BF-LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(L163) LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(L163) LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Does the scan tool display active: B17BF-LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
OVERCURRENT?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL BULB
Remove Left Rear Turn Signal Bulb.
Inspect the Left Rear Turn Signal Bulb.
Yes
Go to 3).
No

3) (L163) LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Microsoft
Disconnect the Left Sidemarker Lamp harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L163) Left Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (L163) Left Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit for a short to ground.
4) (L163) LEFT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure for voltage on the (L163) Left Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L163) Left Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit short to voltage.
No
B17C2-RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
Microsoft
(L162) RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN

(L162) RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B17C2-RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL BULB
Remove Right Rear Turn Signal Bulb.
Inspect the Right Rear Turn Signal Bulb.
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Microsoft

3) (L162) RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
Disconnect the Right Sidemarker Lamp assembly harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (L162) Right Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit between the Right
Sidemarker Lamp assembly harness connector and the TIPM C4 harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (L162) Right Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit for an open.
No
Go to 4).
4) (L162) RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure for voltage on the (L162) Right Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L162) Right Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit short to voltage.
No
B17C4-RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT
When Monitored:
Microsoft
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
(L162) RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(L162) RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display active: B17C4-RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
OVERCURRENT?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL BULB
Remove Right Rear Turn Signal Bulb.
Inspect the Right Rear Turn Signal Bulb.

Microsoft
Yes
Go to 3).
No

3) (L162) RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Disconnect the Right Sidemarker Lamp harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L162) Right Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (L162) Right Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit for a short to ground.
4) (L162) RIGHT SIDEMARKER LAMP CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
Measure for voltage on the (L162) Right Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit.
Yes
Repair the (L162) Right Sidemarker Lamp Control circuit short to voltage.
No
Microsoft
2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Lamps/Lighting - Exterior - Service Information - Nitro
Lamps/Lighting - Exterior - Service Information - Nitro
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 1: Identifying Exterior Lamp Units

The exterior lighting system for this vehicle includes the following exterior lamp units:
 Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (2) - A standard equipment Center High Mounted Stop Lamp
(CHMSL) is centered on the upper liftgate header above the liftgate glass opening at the rear of the
vehicle.
 Front Fog Lamps (6) - Optional equipment front fog lamp units are mounted near each outboard end of
the front fascia, below the front headlamp units.
 Front Lamp Units (1) - A standard equipment front lamp unit is located at each outboard end of the
grille assembly in the front end module.
 License Plate Lamps (3) - Two standard equipment rear license plate lamp units are integral to the light
bar assembly, just above the license plate tub formation in the outer liftgate panel.
 Rear Lamp Units (4) - A standard equipment rear lamp unit is mounted to the rear of each quarter panel
on either side of the liftgate opening.
 Repeater Lamps (5) - A repeater lamp is mounted to each front fender just behind the front wheel
opening on vehicles manufactured for certain markets where they are required.
These exterior lighting lamp units and their controls are combined to provide the following exterior lighting
features:
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 Backup Lamps - The backup (or reverse) lamps include a clear bulb, reflector and clear lens that are
integral to each rear lamp unit.
 Brake Lamps - The brake (or stop) lamps include a clear bulb, reflector and red lens that are integral to
each rear lamp unit, and the red lens and multiple Light-Emitting Diode (LED) units of the CHMSL.
 Daytime Running Lamps - Vehicles manufactured for sale in Canada illuminate the high beam
headlamp bulb in each front lamp unit at a reduced intensity to serve as the Daytime Running Lamps
(DRL). United States fleet vehicles illuminate the low beam headlamp bulb in each front lamp unit to
serve as DRL.
 Exterior Lamp Fail-Safe Operation - The Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known
as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) and the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) provide a fail-
safe feature which will automatically turn ON the low beam headlamps and all park lamps when the
ignition switch is in the ON position and there is no detected input from the Steering Control Module
(SCM), or when there is no communication over the Local Interface Network (LIN) or Controller Area
Network (CAN) data buses.
 Exterior Lamp Load Shedding - The TIPM provides a battery saver feature which will automatically
turn OFF all exterior lamps (except park lamps in certain markets) that remain ON with the ignition
switch in the LOCK position after a timed interval of about eight minutes.
 Front Fog Lamps - The optional equipment front fog lamps include the clear bulb, reflector and clear
lens of each adjustable front fog lamp unit.
 Hazard Warning Lamps - The hazard warning lamps include the bulbs, reflectors and lenses of each
lamp in the right and left, front and rear turn signal circuits.
 Headlamp Delay - The standard equipment low or high beam headlamps remain illuminated for a
customer-programmable delay period of 0 (disabled), 30, 60 or 90 seconds when the headlamps are
turned OFF after the ignition switch has been turned to the OFF position.
 Headlamps - The headlamps include a single, dual filament halogen bulb, an adjustable reflector and a
clear lens integral to each front lamp unit.
 Headlamp Leveling - Headlamp leveling is available only in certain markets where it is required
equipment. A headlamp leveling actuator motor on each headlamp unit and a headlamp leveling switch
integral to the switch pod in the instrument panel allow the headlamp beam pattern to be adjusted by the
vehicle operator from the interior of the vehicle to compensate for passenger or cargo loads.
 Optical Horn - Also known as flash-to-pass, the beam selection function of the left (lighting) multi-
function switch control stalk has a momentary intermediate position that allows the headlamp high beams
to be flashed momentarily, without changing the headlamp beam selection.
 Park Lamps - The front park lamps include the amber bulbs, the reflectors and the clear lenses of the
front lamp units as well as either the clear bulbs and the amber lenses of the front side marker lamps or
the clear position lamp bulb integral to each headlamp. The rear park lamps include a clear bulb, a
reflector and a red lens integral to each rear lamp unit as well as the clear bulb and lens of the license
plate lamp units.
 Rear Fog Lamps - Rear fog lamps are available only in certain markets where they are required
equipment. The rear fog lamps include a clear bulb, a reflector and a red lens that are integral to each rear
lamp unit.
 Turn Signal Lamps - The front turn signal lamps include an amber bulb, a reflector, and a clear lens that
are integral to each front lamp unit and the front side marker lamps. In certain markets where required,
the repeater lamps on each front fender replace the front side marker lamps in the front turn signal
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circuits. The rear turn signal lamps include a clear bulb, a reflector and a red lens integral to each rear
lamp unit for domestic market vehicles, or an amber bulb and a clear lens for export market vehicles.
Other components of the exterior lighting system for this vehicle include:
 Backup Lamp Switch - A plunger-type backup lamp switch is installed through the transmission housing
of vehicles equipped with a manual transmission and is actuated by the shifter mechanism within the
transmission when REVERSE gear is selected. On vehicles with an optional automatic transmission a
stand-alone Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) performs the backup lamp switch function.
 Brake Lamp Switch - A plunger-type brake lamp switch is located on the brake pedal support bracket
under the instrument panel and is actuated by the brake pedal arm when the brake pedal is depressed.
 Clockspring - The clockspring includes an integral turn signal cancel cam, which provides automatic
turn signal cancellation as the steering wheel is rotated back to its centered position following a vehicle
turning maneuver. The clockspring is located near the top of the steering column, directly beneath the
steering wheel. Refer to DESCRIPTION .
 Hazard Switch - A latching push button-actuated hazard switch is integral to the switch pod located just
below the heater and air conditioner controls in the center stack area of the instrument panel.
 Headlamp Leveling Switch - A four mode push button-actuated headlamp leveling switch is integral to
the switch pod located just below the heater and air conditioner controls in the center stack area of the
instrument panel of vehicles manufactured for certain markets where the headlamp leveling feature is
required.
 Instrument Cluster - The Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) is also known as the Cab
Compartment Node (CCN) in this vehicle. The EMIC/CCN is located in the instrument panel above the
steering column opening, directly in front of the driver. Refer to DESCRIPTION .
 Instrument Panel Switch Pod - The instrument panel switch pod contains the hazard switch and, on
vehicles so equipped, the headlamp leveling switch. The switch pod is located just below the heater and
air conditioner controls in the center stack area of the instrument panel. Refer to DESCRIPTION .
 Left Multi-Function Switch - The left (lighting) multi-function switch is located on the steering column,
just below the steering wheel. A control stalk that extends from the left side of the switch is used to select
the turn signal lamps (right or left) and to select the headlamp beam (low, high or optical horn). A control
knob on the control stalk is used to select the park lamps, headlamps or fog lamps.
 Park Brake Switch - A park brake switch is located on the park brake lever mechanism on the floor
panel transmission tunnel between the two front seats.
 Steering Control Module - The Steering Control Module (SCM) is located within the left multi-function
switch housing on the top of the steering column, just below the steering wheel. Refer to
DESCRIPTION .
 Totally Integrated Power Module - The Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) is located in the
engine compartment, near the battery. Refer to DESCRIPTION .
 Trailer Tow Wiring Adapter - Vehicles equipped with a factory-installed trailer towing package have a
wiring adapter provided that adapts the factory-installed heavy duty 7-way trailer tow connector to a
conventional 4-way light duty connector.
 Trailer Tow Connector - Vehicles equipped with a factory-installed trailer towing package have a heavy
duty 7-way trailer tow connector installed in a bracket on the trailer hitch receiver.
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Hard wired circuitry connects the exterior lighting system components to the electrical system of the vehicle.
These hard wired circuits are integral to several wire harnesses, which are routed throughout the vehicle and
retained by many different methods. These circuits may be connected to each other, to the vehicle electrical
system and to the exterior lighting components through the use of a combination of soldered splices, splice
block connectors, and many different types of wire harness terminal connectors and insulators. Refer to the
repair procedures, further details on wire harness routing and retention, as well as pin-out and location views for
OPERATION
Following are paragraphs that briefly describe the operation of each of the major exterior lighting systems. The
lamps and the hard wired circuits between components related to the exterior lighting system may be diagnosed
using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring
information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire harness
routing and retention, connector pin-out information and location views for the various wire harness connectors,
splices and grounds.
However, conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the exterior lighting
system or the electronic controls or communication between modules and other devices that provide some
features of the exterior lighting system. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the exterior
lighting system or the electronic controls and communication related to exterior lighting system operation
BACKUP LAMPS
The backup (or reverse) lamps have a path to ground at all times through a takeout and eyelet terminal of the
unibody wire harness that is secured by a nut to a ground stud on the body sheet metal within the passenger
compartment. On vehicles with a manual transmission, the backup lamp switch provides a hard wired input to
the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) through a reverse switch signal circuit and the TIPM provides
battery voltage to the backup lamps on the backup lamp feed circuit whenever the ignition switch is not in the
LOCK position and the REVERSE position is selected with the transmission shift linkage.
On vehicles with an automatic transmission the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or the Transmission Control
Module (TCM) monitors a multiplex input from the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS), then sends the proper
electronic transmission gear selector status messages to the TIPM over the Controller Area Network (CAN)
data bus. Whenever the ignition switch is not in the LOCK position and the TIPM receives an electronic
message indicating the status of the transmission gear selector is REVERSE, it provides a battery voltage output
through a high side driver to the backup lamps on the backup lamp feed circuit.
BRAKE LAMPS
The brake (or stop) lamps and the Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) each have a path to ground at all
times through a takeout and eyelet terminal of the body wire harness that is secured by a nut to a ground stud on
the body sheet metal within the passenger compartment. The CHMSL receives battery voltage directly on the
brake lamp switch output circuit when the brake lamp switch is closed by the brake pedal arm. The TIPM also
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receives battery voltage on the brake lamp switch output circuit, which it uses as a logic input to energize the
brake lamps. The TIPM provides battery voltage to the brake lamps through two high side drivers on the
tail/stop lamp rear feed circuit when it receives the proper input from the closed brake lamp switch.
DAYTIME RUNNING LAMPS
Vehicles manufactured for sale in Canada illuminate the high beam filament of both headlamp bulbs at a
reduced intensity when the engine is running, the parking brake is released, the headlamps are turned OFF, and
the optional automatic transmission gear selector lever is in any position except PARK. The park lamps may be
ON or OFF for DRL to operate. For vehicles with a manual transmission, the Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)
will operate in any transmission gear selector lever position. In fleet vehicles manufactured for the U. S. and
Mexican markets, DRL operates in the same manner, but the low beam filament of both headlamp bulbs is used
rather than the high beam filament. The TIPM must be programmed appropriately for this feature to be enabled.
Once enabled, anytime the TIPM receives electronic messages over the CAN data bus from the Powertrain
Control Module (PCM) indicating the engine is running, from the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster
(EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) indicating the status of the left (lighting) multi-
function switch is in any position except headlamps ON and the parking brake lever is released, and from the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or the Transmission Control Module (TCM) indicating the automatic
transmission gear selector lever is in any position except PARK, the TIPM provides a pulse width modulated
voltage output to the headlamp high beam bulb filaments through high side drivers on the right and left high or
low beam feed circuits to produce illumination at a reduced intensity.
FRONT FOG LAMPS
The front fog lamps have a path to ground at all times through their connection to the engine compartment wire
harness. The engine compartment wire harness has takeouts with eyelet terminals that are secured by nuts to
ground studs on the front end sheet metal within the engine compartment. The Steering Control Module (SCM)
monitors a hard wired multiplex input from the left multi-function switch to determine whether the fog lamps
are selected, then sends an electronic front fog lamp switch status message to the EMIC over the Local
Interface Network (LIN) data bus and the EMIC relays an electronic front fog lamp request message to the
TIPM over the CAN data bus.
When the TIPM receives a front fog lamp request message it then controls front fog lamp operation by
controlling a battery voltage output through high side drivers on right and left fog lamp feed circuits. The TIPM
also sends the appropriate electronic message back to the EMIC to illuminate or extinguish the front fog lamp
indicator. In certain markets where required, the TIPM will automatically de-energize the front fog lamps any
time the headlamp high beams are selected.
The TIPM also provides a battery saver (load shedding) feature for the front fog lamps, which will turn these
lamps OFF if they are left ON for more than about eight minutes with the ignition switch in the LOCK position
or if there is a charging system failure.
Each front fog lamp includes an integral adjustment screw to be used for static aiming of the fog lamp beams.
HAZARD WARNING LAMPS
The hazard warning system includes the EMIC, the TIPM and the hazard switch in the switch pod located in the
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center stack area of the instrument panel, below the air conditioner and heater controls. The hazard switch
provides a hard wired input to the TIPM. When the TIPM receives an input from the hazard switch it controls
hazard warning system operation and flash rate by controlling battery voltage outputs through high side drivers
on the right and left turn signal feed circuits.
The TIPM also sends the appropriate electronic messages back to the EMIC over the CAN data bus to control
the illumination and flash rate of the right and left turn signal indicators, as well as to control the click rate of an
electromechanical relay soldered onto the EMIC electronic circuit board that emulates the sound emitted by a
conventional hazard warning flasher.
HEADLAMPS
The headlamp system includes the SCM, the EMIC, the TIPM, and the left (lighting) multi-function switch on
the steering column. The headlamp bulbs have a path to ground at all times through their connection to the
engine compartment wire harness. The engine compartment harness has takeouts with eyelet terminals that are
secured by nuts to ground studs on the front end sheet metal within the engine compartment. The TIPM will
store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for any shorts or opens in the headlamp circuits.
The SCM monitors a hard wired multiplex input to determine the status of the left multi-function switch and
whether the headlamp high or low beams are selected. The SCM then sends the appropriate electronic
headlamp switch and headlamp beam select switch status messages to the EMIC over the LIN data bus. The
EMIC then sends the appropriate electronic headlamp request and headlamp beam request messages to the
TIPM over the CAN data bus. The TIPM responds to these messages by providing a pulse width modulated
voltage output to the headlamps through high side drivers on the right and left low and high beam feed circuits
to illuminate the selected headlamp filaments. The TIPM also sends the appropriate electronic messages to the
EMIC to control the illumination of the high beam indicator. When the optical horn feature is selected, the low
beams will shut OFF about 200 milliseconds after the high beams are activated.
The TIPM also remembers which beams (LOW or HIGH) were selected when the headlamps were last turned
OFF, and energizes those beams again the next time the headlamps are turned ON. The TIPM provides a battery
saver (load shedding) feature for the headlamps, which will turn these lamps OFF if they are left ON for more
than about eight minutes with the ignition switch in the LOCK position. The SCM and the EMIC each provide a
fail-safe feature for the headlamps, which will cause the TIPM to turn the low beam headlamps ON
automatically if there is no input available from the left multi-function switch. The TIPM also provides a fail-
safe feature for the headlamps that will turn the headlamps ON automatically whenever a loss of CAN bus
communication is detected with the ignition switch in the ON position.
Each headlamp includes an integral reflector adjustment screw (domestic markets) or screws (export markets) to
be used for static aiming of the headlamps.
HEADLAMP DELAY
The headlamp delay feature includes the left (lighting) multi-function switch, the SCM, the EMIC and the
TIPM. This feature has customer programmable delay intervals of 0 seconds (disabled), 30 seconds, 60 seconds
and 90 seconds. If the left multi-function switch remains in the headlamp ON position until after the ignition
switch is turned to the OFF position, then the headlamps will remain illuminated until after the selected delay
interval has elapsed. The park lamps will not stay ON during the headlamp delay interval. The default delay
interval is zero seconds (disabled), but can be reprogrammed by the customer using the customer programmable
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features function of the EMIC.
HEADLAMP LEVELING
In certain markets where required, a headlamp leveling system is provided on the vehicle. The headlamp
leveling system includes unique front headlamp units each connected to a headlamp leveling actuator motor,
and a rocker-actuated headlamp leveling switch integral to the switch pod in the instrument panel center stack.
The headlamp leveling system allows the headlamp beams to be adjusted to one of four vertical positions to
compensate for changes in inclination caused by the loading of the vehicle suspension. The leveling motors are
mechanically connected through an integral pushrod to the adjustable headlamp mounting collar.
Each time the headlamp leveling switch is depressed the circuitry of the switch pod provides an electronic
select status up or select status down message input to the EMIC over the LIN data bus. The EMIC then sends
the appropriate electronic select request up or select request down messages to the TIPM over the CAN data
bus. The TIPM responds to these messages by providing a voltage output to the headlamp leveling motors
through high side drivers on the headlamp leveling motor right and left signal circuits to move the headlamp
reflectors to the selected position based upon the voltage input received from the TIPM. The TIPM also sends
the appropriate electronic messages back to the EMIC and the EMIC relays the message back to the switch to
control the illumination of the 1 , 2 , or 3 Light Emitting Diode (LED) selected position indicator in the leveling
switch button. The EMIC and TIPM logic will only allow the headlamp leveling system to operate while the
ignition switch is in the ON position and the exterior lighting is turned ON.
PARK LAMPS
The park lamps system includes the left (lighting) multi-function switch, the SCM, the EMIC and the TIPM.
The front park/turn lamp and the position lamp bulbs each have a path to ground at all times through their
connection to the engine compartment wire harness. The engine compartment wire harness has takeouts with
eyelet terminals that are secured by nuts to ground studs on the front end sheet metal within the engine
compartment. The rear lamp units and license plate lamp bulbs have a path to ground at all times through a
takeout and eyelet terminal of the body wire harness that is secured by a nut to a ground stud on the body sheet
metal within the passenger compartment.
The SCM monitors a hard wired multiplex input from the left multi-function switch, then sends the appropriate
electronic headlamp switch status messages to the EMIC over the LIN data bus. Then the EMIC relays the
appropriate electronic message to the TIPM over the CAN data bus. The TIPM responds to these messages by
providing a battery voltage output to the appropriate lamp bulbs through high side drivers on the proper
park/tail/license/running lamp right and left circuits. The TIPM and the SCM also send the appropriate
electronic messages to the EMIC to control the illumination and lighting level of the panel lamps.
The TIPM provides a battery saver (load shedding) feature for the park lamps, which will turn these lamps OFF
if they are left ON for more than about eight minutes with the ignition switch in the LOCK position. The SCM
and the EMIC each provide a fail-safe feature for the park lamps, which will send an electronic message to the
TIPM to turn these lamps ON automatically if there is no input available from the left multi-function switch.
The TIPM also provides a fail-safe feature for the park lamps that will turn these lamps ON automatically
whenever a loss of CAN bus communication is detected with the ignition switch in the ON position.
REAR FOG LAMPS
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Rear fog lamps are installed on vehicles manufactured for all export markets. The rear fog lamp system includes
the left (lighting) multi-function switch, the SCM, the EMIC and the TIPM. The rear fog lamp bulbs have a path
to ground at all times through a takeout and eyelet terminal of the body wire harness that is secured by a nut to a
ground stud on the body sheet metal within the passenger compartment.
The SCM monitors a hard wired multiplex input from the left multi-function switch to determine whether the
rear fog lamps are selected, then sends electronic rear fog lamp switch status messages to the EMIC over the
LIN data bus. Then the EMIC relays an electronic rear fog lamp request message to the TIPM over the CAN
data bus. The TIPM responds to this message by providing a battery voltage output to the rear fog lamp bulbs
through high side drivers on the fog lamp relay control rear circuit. The TIPM also sends the appropriate
electronic message back to the EMIC to control the rear fog lamp indicator.
The TIPM will automatically energize and de-energize the front fog lamps in concert with the rear fog lamps.
The TIPM also provides a battery saver (load shedding) feature for the rear fog lamps, which will turn these
lamps OFF if they are left ON for more than about eight minutes with the ignition switch in the LOCK position.
TRAILER TOW WIRING
Domestic market vehicles equipped with an optional trailer tow package include a trailer tow take out of the
body wire harness connected to a molded, seven-way trailer tow connector and an integral cover that are
snapped into a bracket on the trailer hitch receiver platform.
TURN SIGNAL LAMPS
The turn signal lamps system includes the left (lighting) multi-function switch, the SCM, the EMIC and the
TIPM. The front turn signal lamp bulbs each have a path to ground at all times through their connection to the
engine compartment wire harness. The engine compartment wire harness has a takeout with an eyelet terminal
that is secured by a nut to a ground stud on the body sheet metal within the engine compartment. The rear turn
signal lamp bulbs have a path to ground at all times through a takeout and eyelet terminal of the body wire
harness that is secured by a nut to a ground stud on the body sheet metal within the passenger compartment.
The SCM monitors a hard wired multiplex input from the left multi-function switch to determine the status of
the turn signal switch, then sends the appropriate electronic turn signal switch status messages to the EMIC
over the LIN data bus. Then the EMIC relays an electronic turn signal request message to the TIPM over the
CAN data bus. The TIPM responds to these messages by controlling a battery voltage output and the flash rate
for either the right or left turn signal lamps through high side drivers on the appropriate right or left turn signal
feed circuits. The TIPM also sends the appropriate electronic messages back to the EMIC to control the
illumination and flash rate of the right or left turn signal indicators, as well as to control the click rate of an
conventional turn signal flasher.
The EMIC also provides a turn signal ON warning that will generate repetitive chimes to indicate that a turn
signal has been active continuously for 1.6 kilometers (1 mile) with the vehicle speed greater than 22
kilometers-per-hour (15 miles-per hour). Vehicles built for markets other than the United States and Canada
have a revised distance threshold of 4 kilometers (2.49 miles) for this feature. The chime will continue until the
turn signal input becomes inactive or until the vehicle speed message indicates that the speed is less than 22
kilometers-per-hour (15 miles-per-hour), whichever occurs first.
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WARNING
WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury eye protection should be used when
servicing any glass components.
CAUTION: Do not contaminate the glass of halogen bulbs with fingerprints or allow
contact with other possibly oily surfaces. Reduced bulb life will result.
CAUTION: Do not use bulbs with higher candle power than indicated in the Bulb
Application table. See SPECIFICATIONS. In addition, do not use fuses,
circuit breakers or relays having greater amperage value than indicated on
the fuse panel or in the Owner's Manual. Damage to lamps, lenses, wiring
and other related electrical components can result.
NOTE: When diagnosing the exterior lighting circuits, remember that high generator
output can burn out bulbs rapidly and repeatedly; and, that dim or flickering
bulbs can be caused by low generator output or poor battery condition. If one of
these symptoms is a problem on the vehicle, be certain to diagnose the battery
and charging system, then repair as necessary.
NOTE: A good ground is necessary for proper lighting operation. If a lighting problem
is being diagnosed that involves multiple symptoms, systems, or components,
the problem can often be traced to a loose, corroded, or open ground.
The lamps and the hard wired circuits between components related to the exterior lighting system may be
diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The
wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire
harness routing and retention, connector pin-out information and location views for the various wire harness
Microsoft
connectors, splices and grounds.
However, conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the exterior lighting
system or the electronic controls or communication between modules and other devices that provide some
features of the exterior lighting system. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the exterior
lighting system or the electronic controls and communication related to exterior lighting system operation
BACKUP LAMPS

BACKUP LAMP DOES NOT 1. Ineffective or missing bulb. 1. Test and replace backup lamp bulb if
ILLUMINATE required.
2. Ineffective ground circuit. 2. Test and repair open backup lamp
ground circuit if required.
3. Ineffective feed circuit. 3. Test and repair open backup lamp feed
circuit if required.
4. Ineffective switch. 4. Test and replace backup lamp switch
(manual transmission) or transmission
range sensor (automatic transmission) if
required.
5. Ineffective TIPM inputs or 5. Use a diagnostic scan tool to test the
outputs. TIPM inputs and outputs. Refer to the
BACKUP LAMP DOES NOT 1. Ineffective feed circuit. 1. Test and repair shorted backup lamp
EXTINGUISH feed circuit if required.
2. Ineffective switch. 2. Test and replace backup lamp switch
(manual transmission) or transmission
range sensor (automatic transmission) if
required.
BRAKE LAMPS
NOTE: The Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) is illuminated by several Light-
Emitting Diode (LED) units that are soldered to the electronic circuit board
within the lamp housing. The CHMSL is hard wired to the output of the brake
lamp switch, while the brake lamps are powered by high side drivers within the
TIPM based upon an input from the brake lamp switch. If the brake lamps and
all of the LED units within the CHMSL fail to operate, diagnose and repair the
brake lamps before attempting to repair the CHMSL. If the brake lamps operate
but none of the CHMSL LED units illuminate, test and repair the CHMSL ground
or feed circuit if required. If some of the CHMSL LED units operate and others
do not, the CHMSL assembly must be replaced with a new unit.
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BRAKE LAMP DOES NOT 1. Ineffective or missing bulb. 1. Test and replace brake lamp bulb if
2. Ineffective ground circuit. 2. Test and repair open brake lamp
3. Ineffective fuse. 3. Test and replace the fuse in the TIPM
if required.
4. Test and repair open brake lamp switch
4. Ineffective feed circuit. output circuit or stop lamp output circuit
if required.
5. Test and replace brake lamp switch if
5. Ineffective switch.
required.
BRAKE LAMP DOES NOT 1. Ineffective feed circuit. 1. Test and repair shorted brake lamp
EXTINGUISH switch output circuit or stop lamp output
2. Adjust the brake lamp switch if
2. Improperly adjusted switch.
required.
3. Test and replace brake lamp switch if
3. Ineffective switch.
required.
DAYTIME RUNNING LAMPS
NOTE: Before performing the following tests, determine whether the headlamp low and
high beams operate. If the headlamp low and high beams are also ineffective,
diagnose and repair that problem before attempting to repair the Daytime
Running Lamps.

DAYTIME RUNNING 1. Incorrect TIPM 1. Use a diagnostic scan tool to check and
LAMPS WILL NOT programming. configure TIPM if required.
ILLUMINATE 2. Automatic transmission in 2. Place the transmission gear selector
PARK position. lever in any position except PARK.
3. Parking brake applied. 3. Release the parking brake.
4. Engine not running. 4. Start the engine.
FRONT FOG LAMPS

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NOTE: The front fog lamp switch is integral to the left multi-function switch/Steering
Control Module (SCM), which communicates with the Electro Mechanical
Instrument Cluster (EMIC)/Cab Compartment Node (CCN) over the Local
Interface Network (LIN) data bus. Before performing any of the following tests,
determine whether the other functions of the left multi-function switch/SCM are
operational. If the other left multi-function switch/SCM functions are ineffective,
diagnose and repair that problem before attempting to repair the Front Fog
Lamps.

FRONT FOG LAMP DOES 1. Ineffective or missing bulb. 1. Test and replace front fog lamp bulb if
NOT ILLUMINATE required.
2. Ineffective ground circuit. 2. Test and repair open front fog lamp
3. Ineffective feed circuit. 3. Test and repair open front fog lamp
feed circuit if required.
4. Use a diagnostic scan tool to test the
4. Ineffective EMIC (CCN)
EMIC (CCN) inputs and outputs. Refer to
inputs or outputs.
the appropriate diagnostic information.
FRONT FOG LAMP DOES 1. Ineffective feed circuit. 1. Test and repair shorted front fog lamp
NOT EXTINGUISH feed circuit if required.
inputs or outputs.
HAZARD WARNING LAMPS
NOTE: The hazard switch is integral to the instrument panel switch bank, which
communicates with the EMIC/CCN over the LIN data bus. Before performing any
of the following tests, confirm whether the left and right turn signals operate
satisfactorily. Then determine whether the other functions of the instrument
panel switch bank are operational. If the turn signals are ineffective or operate
improperly, or if the other instrument panel switch bank functions are
ineffective, diagnose and repair those problems before attempting to repair the
Hazard Warning Lamps.

HAZARD WARNING 1. Ineffective EMIC (CCN) 1. Use a diagnostic scan tool to test the
LAMPS DO NOT FLASH inputs or outputs. EMIC (CCN) inputs and outputs. Refer to
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2. Ineffective TIPM inputs or
TIPM inputs and outputs. Refer to the
outputs.
HAZARD WARNING 1. Ineffective EMIC (CCN) 1. Use a diagnostic scan tool to test the
LAMPS DO NOT STOP inputs or outputs. EMIC (CCN) inputs and outputs. Refer to
FLASHING the appropriate diagnostic information.
outputs.
HEADLAMPS
NOTE: As part of the exterior lighting fail-safe feature, upon ignition ON, all exterior
park lamps and the headlamp low beams will illuminate regardless of the left
multi-function switch control knob position if the SCM cannot detect an input
from the left multi-function switch, or if there is a loss of communication
between the left multi-function switch/SCM and the EMIC or between the EMIC
and the TIPM. Diagnose and repair those problems before attempting to repair
the Headlamps. In addition, the TIPM will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)
for an open or shorted headlamp circuit.

HEADLAMP DOES NOT 1. Ineffective or missing bulb. 1. Test and replace headlamp bulb if
2. Ineffective ground circuit. 2. Test and repair open headlamp ground
3. Ineffective feed circuit. 3. Test and repair open headlamp low
beam or high beam feed circuit if
required.
inputs or outputs.
HEADLAMP DOES NOT 1. Ineffective feed circuit. 1. Test and repair shorted headlamp low
EXTINGUISH beam or high beam feed circuit if
required.
2. Ineffective EMIC (CCN) 2. Use a diagnostic scan tool to test the
inputs or outputs. EMIC (CCN) inputs and outputs. Refer to
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HEADLAMPS ILLUMINATE 1. Loss of LIN or CAN data 1. Test and repair the LIN or CAN data
WITH IGNITION ON AND bus communication. bus if required. Refer to the appropriate
HEADLAMP SWITCH OFF diagnostic information.
(FAIL-SAFE OPERATION)
HEADLAMPS WILL NOT 1. Ineffective EMIC (CCN) 1. Use a diagnostic scan tool to test the
SWITCH FROM HIGH TO inputs or outputs. EMIC (CCN) inputs and outputs. Refer to
LOW BEAMS, OR FROM the appropriate diagnostic information.
LOW TO HIGH BEAMS 2. Ineffective TIPM inputs or 2. Use a diagnostic scan tool to test the
HEADLAMP LEVELING
NOTE: The headlamp leveling switch is integral to the instrument panel switch bank,
which communicates with the EMIC/CCN over the LIN data bus. Before
performing any of the following tests, confirm whether the park lamps operate
satisfactorily. Then determine whether the other functions of the instrument
panel switch bank are operational. If the park lamps are ineffective or operate
improperly, or if the other instrument panel switch bank functions are
ineffective, diagnose and repair those problems before attempting to repair the
Headlamp Leveling function.

ONE LEVELING MOTOR IS 1. Ineffective ground circuit.1. Test and repair open leveling motor
INEFFECTIVE ground circuit if required.
2. Ineffective feed circuit. 2. Test and repair open leveling motor
feed circuit if required.
3. Ineffective signal circuit. 3. Test and repair open headlamp leveling
motor signal circuit if required.
4. Ineffective motor. 4. Test and replace headlamp leveling
motor if required.
BOTH LEVELING MOTORS 1. Ineffective EMIC (CCN) 1. Use a diagnostic scan tool to test the
ARE INEFFECTIVE inputs or outputs. EMIC (CCN) inputs and outputs. Refer to
2. Ineffective motor ground 2. Test and repair open leveling motor
circuit. ground circuit if required.
3. Ineffective motor feed 3. Test and repair open leveling motor
circuit. feed circuit if required.
4. Ineffective signal circuit. 4. Test and repair open or shorted
headlamp leveling motor signal circuit if
required.
6. Ineffective motors. 6. Test and replace leveling motors if
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required.
PARK LAMPS
NOTE: As part of the exterior lighting fail-safe feature, upon ignition ON, all exterior
park lamps and the headlamp low beams will illuminate regardless of the left
multi-function switch control knob position if the SCM cannot detect an input
from the left multi-function switch, or if there is a loss of communication
between the left multi-function switch/SCM and the EMIC or between the EMIC
and the TIPM. Diagnose and repair those problems before attempting to repair
the Park Lamps.

PARK LAMP DOES NOT 1. Ineffective or missing bulb. 1. Test and replace park lamp bulb if
2. Ineffective ground circuit. 2. Test and repair open park lamp ground
3. Ineffective feed circuit. 3. Test and repair open park lamp feed
inputs or outputs.
PARK LAMP DOES NOT 1. Ineffective feed circuit. 1. Test and repair shorted park lamp feed
EXTINGUISH circuit if required.
inputs or outputs.
REAR FOG LAMPS
NOTE: The rear fog lamp switch is integral to the left multi-function switch/SCM, which
of the following tests, determine whether the other functions of the left multi-
function switch/SCM are operational. If the other left multi-function switch/SCM
functions are ineffective, diagnose and repair that problem before attempting to
repair the Rear Fog Lamps.

REAR FOG LAMP DOES 1. Ineffective or missing bulb. 1. Test and replace rear fog lamp bulb if
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NOT ILLUMINATE required.

2. Ineffective ground circuit. 2. Test and repair open rear fog lamp
3. Ineffective feed circuit. 3. Test and repair open fog lamp relay
control rear circuit if required.
inputs or outputs.
5. Use a diagnostic scan tool to check and
5. Incorrect TIPM correct the TIPM configuration settings if
configuration. required. Refer to the appropriate
diagnostic information.
REAR FOG LAMP DOES 1. Ineffective feed circuit. 1. Test and repair shorted fog lamp relay
NOT EXTINGUISH control rear circuit if required.
inputs or outputs.
TURN SIGNAL LAMPS
NOTE: The turn signal switch is integral to the left multi-function switch/SCM, which
of the following tests, determine whether the other functions of the left multi-
function switch/SCM are operational. If the other left multi-function switch/SCM
functions are ineffective, diagnose and repair that problem before attempting to
repair the Turn Signal Lamps.

ONE TURN SIGNAL LAMP 1. Ineffective or missing bulb. 1. Test and replace turn signal bulb if
DOES NOT ILLUMINATE required.
2. Ineffective ground circuit. 2. Test and repair open ground circuit if
required.
3. Test and repair open right or left turn
3. Ineffective feed circuit.
signal feed circuit if required.
ALL RIGHT SIDE OR ALL 1. Ineffective feed circuit. 1. Test and repair open right or left turn
LEFT SIDE TURN SIGNAL signal feed circuit if required.
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LAMPS (OR BOTH SIDES) 2. Use a diagnostic scan tool to test the
DO NOT FLASH EMIC (CCN) inputs and outputs. Refer to
inputs or outputs.
ALL RIGHT SIDE OR ALL 1. Ineffective or missing bulb. 1. Test and replace turn signal bulb if
LEFT SIDE TURN SIGNALS required.
FLASH TOO RAPIDLY 2. Ineffective ground circuit. 2. Test and repair open bulb ground
(MORE THAN 100 FLASHES circuit if required.
PER MINUTE) 3. Ineffective feed circuit. 3. Test and repair open right or left turn
signal feed circuit if required.
TURN SIGNALS DO NOT
1. Inspect and replace the turn signal
AUTOMATICALLY 1. Ineffective cancel cam.
cancel cam (clockspring) if required.
CANCEL
2. Inspect and replace the turn signal
- 2. Ineffective cancel actuator. cancel actuator (left multi-function
switch) if required.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
FRONT LAMP AIMING
VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR LAMP ALIGNMENT
1. Check for and correct any burnt out bulbs.

2. If the vehicle is equipped with headlamp leveling, be certain that the headlamp leveling switch is in the 0
position.
3. Repair or replace any ineffective, worn or damaged body or suspension components that could hinder
proper lamp alignment.
4. Verify proper tire inflation pressures.
5. Remove any accumulations of mud, snow or ice from the vehicle underbody and clean the front lamp
lenses.
6. Verify that there is no load in the vehicle (cargo or passengers), except for the driver.
7. The fuel tank should be FULL. Add 2.94 kilograms (6.5 pounds) of weight over the fuel tank for each
estimated gallon of missing fuel.
8. Verify correct vehicle suspension height.
LAMP ALIGNMENT SCREEN PREPARATION
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Fig. 2: Lamp Alignment Screen Preparation

The procedure that follows will prepare a suitable front lamp alignment screen.
1. Tape a line on a level floor 7.62 meters (25 feet) away from and parallel to the flat wall that will be used
as the lamp alignment screen. The level floor will be used as the horizontal zero reference.
2. An adjacent wall or floor member that is perpendicular to the alignment screen can be used as the vertical
zero reference. If there is no adjacent wall or floor member that is perpendicular to the screen, tape a
second line on the floor perpendicular to both the alignment screen and the first line, and outboard of
either side of where the vehicle will be positioned. This will be used as the vertical zero reference.
3. Position the vehicle so that the side of the vehicle is parallel to the vertical zero reference, and so that the
front of the lamp lenses are in the vertical plane of the parallel line taped on the floor 7.62 meters (25
feet) away from the screen.
4. Rock the vehicle side-to-side three times to allow the suspension to stabilize.
5. Jounce the front suspension three times by pushing downward on the front bumper and releasing.
6. Measure the distance between the optical center of one of the lamps being aimed (head or fog) and the
floor (horizontal zero reference). Transfer this measurement to the alignment screen with a piece of tape
placed horizontally to the floor. This line will be used as the lamp horizontal reference.
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7. Measure the distance between the vertical zero reference and the optical center of the nearest lamp being
aimed (head or fog). Transfer this measurement to the alignment screen with a piece of tape placed
vertically across the appropriate (head or fog) lamp horizontal reference. This is the centerline reference
for the first lamp.
8. Measure the distance on center between the first and the second lamp being aimed. Transfer this
measurement to the alignment screen with a second piece of tape placed vertically across the appropriate
(head or fog) lamp horizontal reference. This is the centerline reference for the second lamp.
HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT
NOTE: Due to the linear nature of the headlamp cutoff, a properly aimed low beam
headlamp will project the top edge of the high intensity pattern on the alignment
screen from the horizontal line to 50 millimeters (2 inches) below the horizontal
line for domestic market vehicles, or to 125 millimeters (5 inches) below the
horizontal line for export market vehicles. No horizontal (right/left) adjustment is
required for this headlamp beam pattern in domestic market vehicles. Export
market vehicles have a second horizontal (right/left) adjustment screw
provided. The high beam pattern will be correct when the low beams are
properly aimed.
Fig. 3: Lamp Alignment Screen Preparation

1. Turn the headlamps ON and select the LOW beams for vehicles in all markets.
2. On all vehicles except those with headlamp leveling, use a screwdriver to rotate the headlamp vertical
adjustment screw (2) on the back of the front lamp unit just inboard of the hood bumper (1) to adjust the
beam height as required.
3. For export markets only, use a screwdriver to rotate the headlamp horizontal adjustment screw on each
headlamp to adjust the beam right or left as required.
FOG LAMP ALIGNMENT
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NOTE: A properly aimed front fog lamp will project a pattern on the alignment screen
100 millimeters (4 inches) below the fog lamp centerline and straight ahead of
the lamp.
Fig. 4: Identifying Clearance Notch, Front Fog Lamp & Front Fascia
1. Turn the fog lamps ON.

2. Insert a screwdriver through the clearance notch (1) at the top of the front fog lamp (2) seat of the front
fascia (3) to rotate the vertical adjustment screw on each lamp to adjust the beam height as required.
SPECIFICATIONS
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BULB APPLICATION TABLE

LAMP BULB
BACKUP 921 (W16W)
BRAKE 3157 (P27W/7W)
LIGHT-EMITTING DIODES SERVICED IN
CENTER HIGH MOUNTED STOP
ASSEMBLY
FRONT FOG 9145 (H10)
3157AK - DOMESTIC
FRONT PARK
3757AK (PY27W/7W) - EXPORT
FRONT SIDE MARKER (DOMESTIC ONLY) 168
3157AK - DOMESTIC
FRONT TURN SIGNAL
3757AK (PY27W/7W) - EXPORT
9008 (H13) - DOMESTIC
HEADLAMP
9003 (H4 60/55W) - EXPORT
LICENSE PLATE W5W
POSITION (EXPORT ONLY) W5W
REAR FOG (EXPORT ONLY) 3157 (P27W/7W)
REAR PARK 3157 (P27W/7W)
REAR SIDE MARKER 3157 (P27W/7W)
REAR TURN SIGNAL 3757A (PY27W/7W)
REPEATER (EXPORT ONLY) WY5W
Center High Mounted 2.5 - 20
Stop Lamp (CHMSL)
Mounting Screws
Front Fog Lamp 2 - 18
Mounting Screws
Front Lamp Unit
3 - 23
Mounting Nuts
Left Multi-Function
1 - 10
Switch Mounting Screw
Park Brake Switch
2.5 - 24
Mounting Screw
Rear Lamp Unit Socket
1 - 12
Plate Mounting Screws
SWITCH-BACKUP LAMP
DESCRIPTION
BACKUP LAMP SWITCH
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Fig. 5: Identifying Backup Lamp Switch

Vehicles equipped with a manual transmission (1) have a normally open, spring-loaded plunger type backup
lamp switch (2). Vehicles with an optional electronic automatic transmission have a Transmission Range Sensor
(TRS) that is used to perform several functions, including that of the backup lamp switch. The TRS is described
in further detail elsewhere in this service information. Refer to the service and diagnostic information for the
automatic transmission type installed in the vehicle.
The backup lamp switch is located in a threaded hole on the side of the manual transmission housing. The
switch has a threaded body and a hex formation near the plunger end of the switch. An integral connector
receptacle at the end of the switch opposite the plunger connects the switch to the vehicle electrical system
through a take out and connector of the engine wire harness. When installed, only the switch connector and the
hex formation are visible on the outside of the transmission housing.
The backup lamp switch cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if ineffective or damaged, the entire switch unit
must be replaced.
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OPERATION
BACKUP LAMP SWITCH
The backup lamp switch controls a path to ground for the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) on the
reverse switch signal circuit. The TIPM reads this input through an internal pull-up, then controls an output
through a high side driver that regulates the flow of battery voltage to the backup lamp bulbs as appropriate on
the backup lamp feed circuit. The switch plunger is mechanically actuated by the gearshift mechanism within
the transmission, which will depress the switch plunger and close the switch contacts whenever the REVERSE
gear has been selected. The switch receives ground at all times through a take out and eyelet terminal of the
engine wire harness that is secured by a nut to a ground stud on the body sheet metal within the engine
compartment of the vehicle.
The backup lamp switch as well as the hard wired inputs and outputs of the switch may be diagnosed using
conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information.
BACKUP LAMP SWITCH

3. Locate and disconnect the engine wire harness connector from the backup lamp switch connector
receptacle.
4. Check for continuity between the two terminal pins in the backup lamp switch connector receptacle.
 With the gear selector lever in the REVERSE position, there should be continuity.
 With the gear selector lever in any position other than REVERSE, there should be no continuity.
5. If the switch fails either of these two continuity tests, replace the ineffective backup lamp switch.
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH
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Fig. 6: Brake Lamp Switch

The brake lamp switch (2) is a three circuit, spring-loaded plunger actuated switch that is secured to the steering
column support bracket under the instrument panel on the driver side of the vehicle. The molded plastic switch
housing has an integral connector receptacle (1) containing six terminal pins and featuring a Connector Position
Assurance (CPA) lock. The switch is connected to the vehicle electrical system through a dedicated take out of
the instrument panel wire harness.
The switch plunger (3) extends through a mounting collar (4) on one end of the switch housing. The plunger has
a one time telescoping self-adjustment feature that is activated after the switch is installed by moving an
adjustment release lever (5) on the opposite end of the switch housing clockwise, until it locks into a position
that is parallel to the connector receptacle.
An installed brake lamp switch cannot be readjusted or repaired. If the switch is damaged, ineffective, or
removed from its mounting position for any reason, it must be replaced with a new unit.
OPERATION
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH
The brake lamp switch controls three independent circuits. These circuits are described as follows:
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 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit - A normally open brake lamp switch circuit receives a battery voltage
input, and supplies this battery voltage to the brake lamps and the Controller Antilock Brake (CAB) on a
brake lamp switch output circuit only when the brake pedal is depressed (brake lamp switch plunger
released).
 Brake Lamp Switch Signal Circuit - A normally closed brake lamp switch signal circuit receives a
direct path to ground, and supplies this ground input to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) on a brake
lamp switch sense circuit only when the brake pedal is released (brake lamp switch plunger is depressed).
 Speed Control Circuit - A normally closed speed control circuit receives a battery voltage input from the
PCM on a speed control supply circuit, and supplies this battery voltage to the speed control servo
solenoids (dump, vacuum, and vent) on a speed control brake switch output circuit only when the speed
control system is turned ON and the brake pedal is released (brake lamp switch plunger is depressed).
The components of the self-adjusting brake switch plunger consist of a two-piece telescoping plunger, a split
plunger locking collar, and a release wedge. The release lever has a shaft with a wedge that spreads the plunger
locking collar to an open or released position. After the switch is installed and the brake pedal is released, the
plunger telescopes to the correct adjustment position. When the release lever is moved to the release position,
the wedge is disengaged from the locking collar causing the collar to apply a clamping pressure to the two
plunger halves, fixing the plunger length.
The brake lamp switch as well as the hard wired inputs and outputs of the switch may be diagnosed using
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH
CAUTION: Do not remove the brake lamp switch from the mounting bracket. The self-
adjusting switch plunger is a one time only feature. If the switch is
removed from the mounting bracket, it MUST be replaced with a new
switch.
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Fig. 7: Brake Lamp Switch Terminal Identification


2. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the brake lamp switch.
3. Using an ohmmeter, perform the continuity tests at the terminal pins (1) in the brake lamp switch
connector receptacle as shown in the Brake Lamp Switch Tests table.
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH TESTS TABLE

BRAKE LAMP SWITCH TESTS
PLUNGER POSITION (2) CONTINUITY BETWEEN (1)
Released (Extended) Pins 1 and 2
Compressed (Depressed) Pins 3 and 4, 5 and 6
4. If the switch fails any of the continuity tests, replace the ineffective brake lamp switch as required.
REMOVAL
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH
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CAUTION: The brake lamp switch self-adjusting switch plunger is a one time only
feature. If the switch is removed from the mounting bracket, it MUST be
replaced with a new switch.
Fig. 8: Identifying Support Bracket, Wire Harness Connector, Plunger Adjustment Release Lever, Brake
Lamp Switch & Brake Pedal

2. Remove the steering column opening cover from the instrument panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Locate the brake lamp switch (4) near the support bracket (1) on the lower steering column.
4. Disconnect the wire harness connector (2) from the brake lamp switch.
5. Rotate the brake lamp switch housing counterclockwise about 30 degrees to align the tabs on the switch
locking collar with the keyed mounting hole in the switch mounting bracket.
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6. Pull the switch straight back from the keyed hole to remove it from the bracket.
7. Discard the removed brake lamp switch.
INSTALLATION
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH
CAUTION: The brake lamp switch self-adjusting switch plunger is a one time only
feature. If the switch is removed from the mounting bracket, it MUST be
replaced with a new switch.
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Fig. 9: Identifying Support Bracket, Wire Harness Connector, Plunger Adjustment Release Lever, Brake
Lamp Switch & Brake Pedal
1. Depress and hold the brake pedal (5) in the depressed position.
2. Align the tabs on the brake lamp switch (4) locking collar with the keyed hole in the switch mounting
bracket.
3. Insert the tabs on the brake lamp switch locking collar through the keyed hole in the switch mounting
bracket until the switch housing is firmly seated against the bracket.
4. Rotate the switch clockwise about 30 degrees to engage the tabs on the locking collar with the switch
mounting bracket.
5. Release the brake pedal.
CAUTION: Do not release or pull up on the brake pedal before the switch
plunger adjustment has been completed.
6. Release the brake pedal, but do not pull it upward.

7. Rotate the plunger adjustment release lever (3) clockwise until it locks into place. The lever should be
parallel to the brake lamp switch connector receptacle. This action will set the switch plunger length to a
final adjustment position and cannot be undone. If not performed properly the first time, a new brake
lamp switch must be installed.
8. Reconnect the wire harness connector (2) to the brake lamp switch.
9. Reinstall the steering column opening cover onto the instrument panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
LAMP-HIGH MOUNTED STOP
REMOVAL
CENTER HIGH MOUNTED STOP LAMP
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Fig. 10: Identifying Liftgate Outer Panel, Screws, Washer Supply Hose, Plastic Nuts, Liftgate Wire
Harness Connector & Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL)

2. Remove the two screws (2) that secure the Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) (6) to the upper
header of the liftgate outer panel (1).
3. Pull the CHMSL down and away from the liftgate far enough to access and disconnect the washer supply
hose (3) from the barbed nipple of the rear washer nozzle at the back of the lamp housing.
4. Disconnect the liftgate wire harness connector (5) from the back of the lamp housing.
5. Remove the CHMSL from the liftgate.
INSTALLATION
CENTER HIGH MOUNTED STOP LAMP
Fig. 11: Identifying Liftgate Outer Panel, Screws, Washer Supply Hose, Plastic Nuts, Liftgate Wire
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Harness Connector & Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL)

1. Check to be certain that the two plastic nuts (4) are properly installed and in good condition on each side
of the Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) (6) opening in the upper header of the liftgate outer
panel (1).
2. Position the CHMSL near the liftgate opening.
3. Reconnect the liftgate wire harness connector (5) to the back of the lamp housing.
4. Reconnect the washer supply hose (3) to the barbed nipple of the rear washer nozzle at the back of the
lamp housing.
5. Position the CHMSL into the liftgate opening with the lower edge slightly away from the liftgate.
6. Move the CHMSL left-to-right to align the temporary locator on the back of the CHMSL with the locator
notch in the liftgate opening.
7. Slide the CHMSL slightly upward then rock the lower edge into the opening so that the retention feature
holds the CHMSL to the liftgate without fasteners.
8. Install and tighten the right side screw (2) that secures the CHMSL to the liftgate, followed by the left
side screw. Tighten the screws to 2.5 N.m (20 in. lbs.).
FRONT FOG LAMP
REMOVAL
FRONT FOG LAMP
Fig. 12: Identifying Screws, Alignment Pins, Front Bumper Fascia & Front End Module Wire Harness
Connector

2. Reach up between the lower edge of the front fascia (3) and the front of the front wheel house splash
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shield to access and disconnect the front end module wire harness connector (4) from the front fog lamp
bulb connector receptacle.
3. Remove the two screws (1) that secure the lamp to the back of the front bumper fascia.
4. Remove the lamp from the front of the fascia.
FRONT FOG LAMP BULB
CAUTION: Do not contaminate the bulb glass by touching it with your fingers or by
allowing it to contact other oily surfaces. Shortened bulb life will result.
Fig. 13: Front Fog Lamp Bulb, Front Fascia & Front End Module Wire Harness Connector

shield to access and disconnect the front end module wire harness connector (3) from the front fog lamp
bulb (1) connector receptacle.
3. Firmly grasp the bulb on the back of the front fog lamp housing and rotate it counterclockwise about 30
degrees to unlock it.
4. Pull the bulb straight out from the keyed opening in the housing.
INSTALLATION
FRONT FOG LAMP
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Fig. 14: Identifying Screws, Alignment Pins, Front Bumper Fascia & Front End Module Wire Harness
Connector
1. Position the front fog lamp to the receptacle from the front of the front bumper fascia (3). Be certain that
the two alignment pins (2) on the back of the lamp housing are engaged in the alignment holes in the
fascia receptacle.
2. Reach up between the lower edge of the front fascia and the front of the front wheel house splash shield
to install and tighten the two screws (1) that secure the lamp to the back of the fascia. Tighten the screws
to 2 N.m (18 in. lbs.).
3. Reconnect the front end module wire harness connector (4) to the front fog lamp bulb connector
receptacle.
5. Confirm proper front fog lamp alignment. See FRONT LAMP AIMING.
FRONT FOG LAMP BULB
CAUTION: Always use the correct bulb size and type for replacement. An incorrect
bulb size or type may overheat and cause damage to the lamp, the socket
or the lamp wiring.
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Fig. 15: Front Fog Lamp Bulb, Front Fascia & Front End Module Wire Harness Connector
shield to access and align the front fog lamp bulb (1) with the keyed opening on the back of the front fog
lamp housing.
2. Insert the bulb into the housing until it is firmly seated.
3. Rotate the bulb clockwise about 30 degrees to lock it into place. The bulb connector receptacle should be
horizontal in orientation.
4. Reconnect the front end module wire harness connector (3) to the front fog lamp bulb connector
receptacle.
FRONT LAMP UNIT
STANDARD PROCEDURE
FRONT LAMP MOISTURE CLEARING
Some occasional moisture accumulation inside a vented front lamp unit is normal and appears as a fogging on
the inside of the lamp lens, similar to the fog that sometimes appears on the inside of a windshield. This
condition is caused by rapidly changing temperature and humidity levels between the air internal and external to
the lamp, and will usually dissipate once the temperature and humidity conditions have been allowed to
stabilize. Accelerated removal of such moisture may be accomplished by activating the headlamps on HIGH
beam for about 15 minutes.
However, water droplets larger than 1 millimeter (0.039 inch) in size accumulated on the inside of the lamp
lens, water droplets visible on most internal lamp surfaces or large quantities of water within the lamp indicates
a problem with the lamp sealing that has allowed excessive amounts of water to enter the lamp. Once such
excessive moisture has entered the lamp, it will always be present and will never disappear. A lamp with
permanent internal moisture should be replaced.
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REMOVAL
FRONT SIDE MARKER BULB
NOTE: The following procedure applies only to vehicles manufactured for domestic
markets. Vehicles manufactured for export markets do not have a bulb, socket
or wiring provided to illuminate the front side marker compartment of the front
lamp unit. The front side marker lens is present, but serves only as a reflector
on export market vehicles.
Fig. 16: Identifying Front Lamp Unit Housing, Wire Harness Connector, Front End Module Grille, Front
Lamp Unit Housing & Wire Harness Connector

2. Partially remove the grille and both front lamp units from the face of the front end module as a unit. Refer
to REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect the wire harness connector (2) from the connector receptacle integral to the side marker bulb
socket on the back of the front lamp unit housing (3) located on the back of the front end module grille
(5).
4. Firmly grasp the front side marker bulb socket on the back of the housing and rotate it counterclockwise
about 30 degrees to unlock it.
5. Pull the socket and bulb straight out from the keyed opening in the housing.
6. Pull the base of the bulb straight out of the socket.
FRONT LAMP UNIT
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Fig. 17: Identifying Grille & Front Lamp Units


2. Remove the grille (1) and both front lamp units (2) from the face of the front end module as a unit. Refer
to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the screws that secure the front lamp unit to the back of the grille.
4. Remove the front lamp unit from the back of the grille.
FRONT PARK/TURN SIGNAL BULB

2. Disconnect the wire harness connector (1) from the connector receptacle integral to the park/turn signal
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bulb socket on the back of the front lamp unit housing (3) located on the back of the front end module (5).
3. Firmly grasp the socket and rotate it counterclockwise about 30 degrees to unlock it.
HEADLAMP BULB - EXPORT
Fig. 19: Identifying Front End Module, Wire Harness Connectors, Front Lamp Unit Housing, Front End
Module Grille & Headlamp Leveling Motor

2. Disconnect the wire harness connector (5) from the headlamp bulb base on the back of the front lamp unit
housing (6) located on the back of the front end module (1).
3. Remove the rubber boot seal from the back of the front lamp unit housing and the headlamp bulb base.
4. Pinch the two ends of the wire bulb retainer together and disengage them from the hooks that secure them
to the bulb flange on the reflector.
5. Pivot the wire retainer up off of the flange of the headlamp bulb base and out of the way.
6. Pull the bulb straight out of the keyed opening in the headlamp reflector.
HEADLAMP BULB - DOMESTIC
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2. Disconnect the wire harness connector (4) from the connector receptacle integral to the headlamp bulb on
the back of the front lamp unit housing (3) located on the back of the front end module (5).
3. Firmly grasp the bulb base and rotate it counterclockwise about 30 degrees to unlock it.
4. Pull the bulb and base straight out from the keyed opening in the reflector.
POSITION LAMP BULB
NOTE: The following procedure applies only to vehicles manufactured for export
markets. Vehicles manufactured for domestic markets do not have a position
lamp bulb, socket or wiring provided in the front lamp unit.
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2. Partially remove the grille and both front lamp units from the face of the front end module as a unit. Refer
to REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect the wire harness connector (4) from the connector receptacle integral to the position lamp
bulb socket on the back of the front lamp unit housing (6) located on the back of the front end module
grille (1).
4. Firmly grasp the position lamp bulb socket on the back of the housing and rotate it counterclockwise
INSTALLATION
FRONT SIDE MARKER BULB
or the lamp wiring.
NOTE: The following procedure applies only to vehicles manufactured for domestic
markets. Vehicles manufactured for export markets do not have a bulb, socket
or wiring provided to illuminate the front side marker compartment of the front
lamp unit. The front side marker lens is present, but serves only as a reflector
on export market vehicles.
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1. Align the base of the bulb with the front side marker bulb socket.
2. Push the bulb straight into the socket until the base is firmly seated.
3. Align the socket and bulb with the keyed opening on the back of the front lamp unit housing (3) located
on the back of the front end module grille (5).
4. Insert the socket and bulb into the housing until the socket is firmly seated.
5. Rotate the socket clockwise about 30 degrees to lock it into place.
6. Reconnect the wire harness connector (2) to the connector receptacle integral to the side marker bulb
socket.
7. Reinstall the grille and both front lamp units to the face of the front end module as a unit. Refer to
INSTALLATION .
FRONT PARK/TURN SIGNAL BULB
or the lamp wiring.
1. Align the base of the bulb with the park/turn signal bulb socket.
3. Align the socket and bulb with the keyed opening in the back of the front lamp unit housing (3) located
on the back of the front end module (5).
6. Reconnect the wire harness connector (1) to the connector receptacle integral to the park/turn signal bulb
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socket on the back of the housing.

HEADLAMP BULB - DOMESTIC
or the lamp wiring.
1. Align the bulb base with the keyed opening on the back of the front lamp unit (3) reflector.
2. Insert the bulb and base into the reflector until the base is firmly seated.
3. Rotate the base clockwise about 30 degrees to lock it into place.
4. Reconnect the wire harness connector to the connector receptacle integral to the bulb base on the back of
the front lamp unit housing.
POSITION LAMP BULB
or the lamp wiring.
NOTE: The following procedure applies only to vehicles manufactured for export
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markets. Vehicles manufactured for domestic markets do not have a position

lamp bulb, socket or wiring provided in the front lamp unit.
1. Align the base of the bulb with the position lamp bulb socket.
3. Align the socket and bulb with the keyed opening on the back of the front lamp unit housing (6) located
on the back of the front end module grille (1).
6. Reconnect the wire harness connector (4) to the connector receptacle integral to the position lamp bulb
socket.
INSTALLATION .
HEADLAMP BULB - EXPORT
or the lamp wiring.
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1. Position the headlamp bulb through the opening in the back of the front lamp unit housing (6) into the
keyed opening in the headlamp reflector.
2. Be certain the bulb is fully seated in the reflector, then pivot the wire bulb retainer back over the bulb
flange.
3. Pinch the two ends of the wire bulb retainer together and engage them under the hooks to secure them to
the bulb flange of the reflector.
4. Position the center opening of the rubber boot seal over the base of the headlamp bulb and push it fully
over the bulb base.
5. Position the outer circumference of the boot seal over the flange on the back of the front lamp unit
housing and pull it over the housing flange until the seal is fully engaged.
6. Reconnect the front end module wire harness connector (5) to the headlamp bulb base on the back of the
front lamp unit housing.
FRONT LAMP UNIT
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Fig. 27: Identifying Grille & Front Lamp Units

1. Position the front lamp unit to the back of the front end module grille.
2. Install and tighten the screws that secure the front lamp unit to the back of the grille. Tighten the screws
to 3 N.m (23 in. lbs.).
INSTALLATION .
5. Confirm proper headlamp alignment. See FRONT LAMP AIMING.
HAZARD SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
HAZARD SWITCH

The hazard switch (3) is integral to the instrument panel switch pod (1), which is secured to the instrument
panel center bezel just below the heater and air conditioner controls. A red, stencil-like International Control
and Display Symbol icon for Hazard Warning identifies the hazard switch button. The remainder of the hazard
switch circuitry is concealed within the instrument panel switch pod.
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The hazard switch button has panel lamps dimmer controlled illumination for night visibility. The switch button
latches to a slightly lowered position when the hazard warning system is activated and the icon on the switch
button will illuminate at an increased intensity while the turn signals and turn signal indicators are flashing. The
switch button unlatches to a position flush with the other push buttons in the switch pod when the hazard
warning is deactivated.
All of the circuitry and components of the hazard switch are contained within a molded black plastic instrument
panel switch pod housing. A single connector receptacle is integral to the back of the switch pod housing. The
switch is connected to the vehicle electrical system through a dedicated take out and connector of the instrument
panel wire harness.
The hazard switch cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if ineffective or damaged, the entire instrument panel
switch pod unit must be replaced. Refer to REMOVAL .
OPERATION
HAZARD SWITCH
The status of the hazard switch is continually monitored by the circuitry within the instrument panel switch pod.
The switch pod receives battery voltage at all times on a fused battery feed circuit, and a path to ground at all
times through the instrument panel wire harness. The only other inputs to the switch pod consists of electronic
communication with the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment
Node/CCN) over the single wire Local Interface Network (LIN) data bus.
Whenever the hazard switch is in its unlatched and raised position, the hazard warning system is selected and
the switch pod circuitry sends a hard wired output to the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) over the
CAN data bus. When the TIPM receives a hazard switch input it then controls hazard warning system operation
and flash rate by controlling battery voltage outputs through high side drivers on the right and left turn signal
feed circuits. The TIPM also sends the appropriate electronic messages back to the EMIC to control the
illumination and flash rate of the right and left turn signal indicators, as well as to control the click rate of an
conventional hazard warning flasher. The EMIC then sends messages back to the switch pod to control the
illumination of the hazard switch push button.
The hard wired circuits for the instrument panel switch pod may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic
will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the hazard warning switch or the electronic controls and
communication between other modules and devices that provide some features of the hazard warning system.
The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the hazard switch or the electronic controls and
communication related to hazard warning system operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to
HEADLAMP LEVELING MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
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The headlamp leveling motor (2) is located on the rear inboard side of each front lamp unit housing (6) on
vehicles equipped with the headlamp leveling system, which is available only in certain markets where it is
required equipment. The motor is encased within a molded plastic housing and is secured by an integral wedge-
type mounting boss to a keyed flange on the back of the front lamp unit housing. A rubber seal around the
circumference of the mounting boss seals the motor to the lamp housing.
The outside of the motor housing features an integral molded connector on its rearward surface and a plastic
pushrod with a ball formation on its free end extends from the motor mounting boss. Within the motor housing
is a 12-volt Direct Current (DC) servo motor, an electronic controller board that includes the motor logic
circuits, and an integral screw-drive transmission. The headlamp leveling motor is connected to the vehicle
electrical system through a dedicated take out and connector of the front end module wire harness.
The headlamp leveling motor is serviced as a unit with the front lamp unit. The motor cannot be repaired and, if
ineffective or damaged, the entire front lamp unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
The controller board and logic circuitry of the headlamp leveling motor controls motor operation based upon a
voltage signal input received from the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). The TIPM uses electronic
messages received over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus from the Electro Mechanical Instrument
Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) to determine the correct voltage signal to
provide the leveling motor, while the EMIC uses electronic messages received over the Local Interface Network
(LIN) data bus from the instrument panel switch pod to monitor the headlamp leveling switch selection.
The headlamp leveling motors have a path to ground at all times. The motors operate on battery voltage
received through the headlamp low beam feed circuits so that the system will only operate when the headlamp
low beams are turned ON. When the motor is energized it will extend or retract the motor pushrod through an
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integral screw-drive transmission. The ball on the end of the pushrod is snapped into a socket on the back of the
reflector within the front lamp unit housing, which will cause the reflector to move as the pushrod is extended
or retracted, changing the angle at which the light is projected from the headlamp low beam bulb filaments.
The hard wired circuits for the headlamp leveling motors may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools
and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. However, conventional diagnostic methods will
not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the active electronic elements within the headlamp leveling motors or
the electronic controls and communication between other modules and devices that provide some features of the
headlamp leveling system. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the headlamp leveling
motor or the electronic controls and communication related to headlamp leveling system operation requires the
use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
SWITCH-HEADLAMP LEVELING
DESCRIPTION
HEADLAMP LEVELING SWITCH
Fig. 30: Identifying Headlamp Leveling Switch

The headlamp leveling switch (3) is used only on vehicles manufactured for certain markets where the
headlamp leveling system is required. The headlamp leveling switch is integral to the switch pod (1) on the
instrument panel. A stencil-like International Control and Display Symbol icon for Headlamp Levelling
Control identifies the headlamp leveling switch button. The switch push button is also marked with the
numbers 0 , 1 , 2 , and 3 , which indicates each of the four headlamp leveling positions. Each higher number
represents a lower aiming position of the headlamp beam relative to the road surface.
The headlamp leveling switch button has panel lamps dimmer controlled illumination for night visibility. The
switch button also features a jewel like Light Emitting Diode (LED) indicator adjacent to the numbers 1 , 2 ,
and 3 . The appropriate LED is illuminated when that headlamp position is currently selected. The momentary
switch push button is operated by depressing, then releasing the top or bottom of the button in a rocker manner
to enable the selection of a sequentially higher or lower position with each button press.
All of the circuitry and components of the headlamp leveling switch are contained within a molded black plastic
instrument panel switch pod housing. A single connector receptacle is integral to the back of the switch pod
housing. The switch is connected to the vehicle electrical system through a dedicated take out and connector of
The headlamp leveling switch cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if ineffective or damaged, the entire
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instrument panel switch pod unit must be replaced. Refer to REMOVAL .
OPERATION
HEADLAMP LEVELING SWITCH
The status of the headlamp leveling switch is continually monitored by the circuitry within the instrument panel
switch pod. The switch pod receives battery voltage at all times on a fused battery feed circuit, and a path to
ground at all times through the instrument panel wire harness. The only other inputs to and outputs from the
switch pod consist of electronic communication with the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also
known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) over the single wire Local Interface Network (LIN) data bus.
Whenever the headlamp leveling switch push button is depressed the switch pod circuitry sends an electronic
select status up or select status down message input to the EMIC over the LIN data bus. The EMIC then sends
the appropriate electronic select request up or select request down message to the TIPM over the CAN data
bus.
The TIPM responds to these messages by providing a voltage output to the headlamp leveling motors through
high side drivers on the headlamp leveling motor right and left signal circuits to move the headlamp reflectors
to the selected position based upon the voltage input received from the TIPM. The TIPM also sends the
appropriate electronic messages back to the EMIC and the EMIC relays the messages back to the switch pod to
control the illumination of the 1 , 2 , or 3 Light Emitting Diode (LED) selected position indicator in the leveling
switch button. The EMIC and TIPM logic will only allow the headlamp leveling system to operate while the
ignition switch is in the ON position and the exterior lighting is turned ON.
The hard wired circuits for the instrument panel switch pod may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic
will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the headlamp leveling switch or the electronic controls and
communication between other modules and devices that provide some features of the headlamp leveling system.
The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the headlamp leveling switch or the electronic
controls and communication related to headlamp leveling system operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan
LEFT MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
LEFT MULTI- FUNCTION SWITCH
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Fig. 31: Identifying Control Knob, Control Stalk & Control Sleeve
The left (lighting) multi-function switch is located on the left side of the steering column, just below the
steering wheel. This switch is the primary control for the interior and exterior lighting systems. The only visible
components of the switch are the control stalk (2), control knob (1) and control sleeve (3) that extend through
the steering column shrouds on the left side of the column. The remainder of the switch including its mounting
provisions, its electrical connection, and the turn signal cancel actuator are concealed beneath the shrouds.

The switch housing (2) and controls (1) are constructed of molded black plastic. Each of the switch controls has
white International Control and Display Symbol graphics applied to it, which clearly identify its many
functions. A single screw (7) through a mounting tab integral to the back of the switch housing, and a slide tab
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integral to the bottom of the switch housing secure the switch to the mounting bracket integral to the
clockspring (3).
The Steering Control Module (SCM) is internal to the switch housing. The switch outputs are internally
connected directly to the SCM. A single connector receptacle containing seven terminal pins is integral to the
inboard end of the switch housing and connects the right multi-function switch (6) through a jumper wire
harness (5) directly to the SCM. An integral connector receptacle on the back of the switch housing connects
the SCM to the vehicle electrical system through a dedicated take out and connector of the instrument panel
wire harness.
The left multi-function switch provides the vehicle operator with a control interface for the following exterior
lighting system functions:
 Front Fog Lamps - For vehicles so equipped, the left multi-function switch control knob provides detent
switching for the optional front fog lamps.
 Headlamps - The left multi-function switch control knob provides detent switching for the headlamps.
 Headlamp Beam Selection - The left multi-function switch control stalk provides detent switching for
selection of the headlamp high or low beams.
 Headlamp Optical Horn - The left multi-function switch control stalk includes momentary switching of
the headlamp high beam circuits to provide an optical horn feature (sometimes referred to as flash-to-
pass), which allows the vehicle operator to momentarily flash the headlamp high beams as an optical
signalling device.
 Park Lamps - The left multi-function switch control knob provides detent switching for the park lamps.
 Rear Fog Lamps - For vehicles so equipped, the left multi-function switch control knob provides detent
switching for the optional rear fog lamps. Rear fog lamps are optional only for vehicles manufactured for
certain markets, where they are required.
 Turn Signal Control - The left multi-function switch control stalk provides both momentary non-detent
switching and detent switching with automatic cancellation for both the left and right turn signal lamps.
The left multi-function switch also provides the vehicle operator with a control interface for the following
interior lighting functions:
 Interior Lamps Defeat - The left multi-function switch control ring provides detent switching to
DEFEAT the illumination of all interior courtesy lamps when a door, the rear flip-up glass, or the liftgate
are opened.
 Interior Lamps On - The left multi-function switch control ring provides detent switching to
simultaneously illuminate all interior courtesy lamps.
 Panel Lamps Dimming - The left multi-function switch control ring provides simultaneous adjustable
control of the illumination intensity of all instrument panel lighting at one of five available illumination
intensity levels.
 Parade Mode - The left multi-function switch control ring provides detent switching for a PARADE
mode that maximizes the illumination intensity of all instrument panel lighting for visibility when driving
in daylight with the exterior lamps turned ON.
The left multi-function switch cannot be adjusted or repaired. If any function of the switch is ineffective, or if
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the switch is damaged, the entire switch unit must be replaced. The clockspring (with the multi-function switch
mounting bracket), the left multi-function switch (with the SCM), the right multi-function switch and the
jumper wire harness are each available for separate service replacement.
OPERATION
LEFT MULTI- FUNCTION SWITCH
The left (lighting) multi-function switch uses resistor multiplexing to control the many functions and features it
provides using a minimal number of hard wired circuits. The switch receives clean grounds from the Steering
Control Module (SCM), then provides resistor multiplexed return outputs to the SCM to indicate the selected
switch positions. The SCM then sends electronic switch status messages over a Local Interface Network (LIN)
data bus to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment
Node/CCN), and the EMIC relays electronic switch request messages over the Controller Area Network
(CAN) data bus to other electronic modules in the vehicle.
If the SCM detects no inputs from the left multi-function switch, it transmits an electronic Signal Not Available
(SNA) status message over the LIN data bus. The SNA status signals the EMIC to request other electronic
modules to implement a fail-safe mode of operation for the exterior lighting systems. The fail-safe mode
automatically turns the exterior lighting ON when the ignition switch is in the ON position, and OFF when the
ignition switch is in the OFF position.
The hard wired inputs and outputs of the left multi-function switch and SCM may be diagnosed using
conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. However, the most
reliable, efficient and accurate means to diagnose this component requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool.
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
Following are descriptions of how the left multi-function switch is operated to control the many exterior
lighting functions and features it provides:
 Front Fog Lamps - The optional front fog lamps are requested when the left multi-function switch
control knob is pulled outward to the front fog lamps detent position. The SCM reads the resistor
multiplexed input from the left multi-function switch and sends an electronic exterior lighting switch
status message over the LIN data bus to the EMIC, which relays an electronic exterior lighting switch
request message over the CAN data bus to other electronic modules in the vehicle. The switch control
knob incorporates an internal cam mechanism that will only allow the front fog lamps to be selected
while the headlamp ON position is also selected, and will automatically move the control knob to the
front fog lamps OFF position when the control knob is rotated to deselect the headlamps.
 Headlamps - The headlamps are requested when the left multi-function switch control knob is rotated to
the headlamps ON detent position. The SCM reads the resistor multiplexed input from the left multi-
function switch and sends an electronic exterior lighting switch status message over the LIN data bus to
the EMIC, which relays an electronic exterior lighting switch request message over the CAN data bus
to other electronic modules in the vehicle.
 Headlamp Beam Selection - The headlamp high beams are selected when the left multi-function switch
control stalk is pushed forward to the high beam selection detent position. The low beams are selected
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when the control stalk is pulled rearward to the low beam selection detent position. The SCM reads the
resistor multiplexed input from the left multi-function switch and sends an electronic beam select switch
status message over the LIN data bus to the EMIC, which relays an electronic beam select switch
request message over the CAN data bus to other electronic modules in the vehicle.
 Headlamp Optical Horn - The headlamp optical horn is selected each time the left multi-function switch
control stalk is pulled fully rearward to a momentary position. The headlamp high beams will remain
illuminated for as long as the control stalk is held in this momentary position and the low beams will be
restored when the control stalk is released. The SCM reads the resistor multiplexed input from the left
multi-function switch and sends an electronic beam select switch status message over the LIN data bus
to the EMIC, which relays an electronic beam select switch request message over the CAN data bus to
other electronic modules in the vehicle.
 Park Lamps - The headlamps are requested when the left multi-function switch control knob is rotated to
the park lamps ON detent position. The SCM reads the resistor multiplexed input from the left multi-
function switch and sends an electronic exterior lighting switch status message over the LIN data bus to
the EMIC, which relays an electronic exterior lighting switch request message over the CAN data bus
to other electronic modules in the vehicle.
 Rear Fog Lamps - The optional rear fog lamps are requested when the left multi-function switch control
knob is pulled outward to the front fog lamps detent position and then rotated to the rear fog lamps detent
position. The SCM reads the resistor multiplexed input from the left multi-function switch and sends an
electronic exterior lighting switch status message over the LIN data bus to the EMIC, which relays an
electronic exterior lighting switch request message over the CAN data bus to other electronic modules
in the vehicle. The switch control knob incorporates an internal cam mechanism that will only allow the
rear fog lamps to be selected while the front fog lamps ON position is also selected, and will
automatically move the control knob to the rear fog lamp OFF position when the control knob is pushed
in to deselect the front fog lamps.
 Turn Signal Control - The turn signals are requested when the left multi-function switch control stalk is
moved downward (left signal) or upward (right signal). The control stalk has a detent position in each
direction that provides turn signals with automatic cancellation, and an intermediate, momentary position
in each direction that automatically provides three turn signal blinks as a LANE CHANGE feature when
the control stalk is tapped or will energize the turn signals for as long as the control stalk is held in the
momentary position. When the control stalk is moved to a detent turn signal switch position, a cancel
actuator extends through an opening in the side of the clockspring case toward the center of the steering
column. A turn signal cancel cam that is integral to the clockspring rotor rotates with the steering wheel
and the cam lobes contact the cancel actuator when it is extended from the left multi-function switch.
When the steering wheel is rotated during a turning maneuver, one of the turn signal cancel cam lobes
will contact the turn signal cancel actuator. The cancel actuator latches against the cancel cam rotation in
the direction opposite that which is signaled. If the left turn signal detent is selected, the lobes of the
cancel cam will ratchet past the cancel actuator when the steering wheel is rotated to the left, but will
unlatch the cancel actuator as the steering wheel rotates to the right and returns to center, which will
cancel the turn signal event and release the control stalk from the detent so it returns to the neutral OFF
electronic exterior lighting switch status message over the LIN data bus to the EMIC, which relays an
electronic exterior lighting switch request message over the CAN data bus to other electronic modules
in the vehicle.
INTERIOR LIGHTING
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Following are descriptions of the how the left multi-function switch is operated to control the many interior
lighting functions and features it provides:
 Interior Lamps Defeat - The interior lamps defeat feature is requested when the left multi-function
switch control sleeve is rotated to the interior lamps DEFEAT detent position. The SCM reads the resistor
multiplexed input from the left multi-function switch and sends an electronic interior lighting switch
status message over the LIN data bus to the EMIC, which relays an electronic interior lighting switch
request message over the CAN data bus to other electronic modules in the vehicle.
 Interior Lamps On - The interior lamps ON feature is requested when the left multi-function switch
control sleeve is rotated to the interior lamps ON detent position. The SCM reads the resistor multiplexed
input from the left multi-function switch and sends an electronic interior lighting switch status message
over the LIN data bus to the EMIC, which relays an electronic interior lighting switch request message
over the CAN data bus to other electronic modules in the vehicle.
 Panel Lamps Dimming - The panel lamps dimming function is active only when the left multi-function
switch control knob is in any exterior lighting ON position. With the exterior lighting ON, the panel
lamps dimming level is requested when the left multi-function switch control sleeve is rotated to any one
of five minor detent positions. The SCM reads the resistor multiplexed input from the left multi-function
switch and sends an electronic interior lighting switch status message over the LIN data bus to the
EMIC, which relays an electronic interior lighting switch request message over the CAN data bus to
other electronic modules in the vehicle.
 Parade Mode - The PARADE (or funeral) mode is active only when the left multi-function switch
control knob is in any exterior lighting ON position. With the exterior lighting ON, the PARADE mode is
requested when the left multi-function switch control sleeve is rotated to the PARADE mode detent
electronic interior lighting switch status message over the LIN data bus to the EMIC, which relays an
electronic interior lighting switch request message over the CAN data bus to other electronic modules
in the vehicle.
REMOVAL
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Fig. 33: Identifying Left Multi-Function Switch, Screw & Clockspring


2. Remove both the upper and lower shrouds from the steering column. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector from the connector receptacle on the back of the
left multi-function switch.
4. Remove the screw (2) that secures the left multi-function switch (1) to the mounting bracket integral to
the left side of the clockspring (3) on the steering column.
5. Slide the switch away from the clockspring far enough to disengage the slide tabs on the switch housing
from the channel formations in the mounting bracket.
6. Disconnect the jumper wire harness connector from the connector receptacle on the inboard end of the
left multi-function switch.
7. Remove the switch from the clockspring.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 34: Identifying Left Multi-Function Switch, Screw & Clockspring

1. Position the left multi-function switch (1) close enough to the mounting bracket (3) integral to the left
side of the clockspring to reconnect the jumper wire harness connector to the connector receptacle on the
inboard side of the switch housing.
2. Align the slide tabs on the switch housing with the channel formations integral to the clockspring
mounting bracket, then slide the switch into the bracket until it is firmly seated.
3. Install and tighten the screw (2) that secures the mounting tab on the front of the left multi-function
switch to the mounting bracket on the clockspring. Tighten the screw to 1 N.m (10 in. lbs.).
4. Reconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector to the connector receptacle on the back of the
switch housing.
LICENSE PLATE LAMP
REMOVAL
LICENSE PLATE LAMP BULB
NOTE: The following procedure is for replacement of a license plate lamp bulb. The
license plate lamps are integral to the liftgate handle and light bar unit. If any
part of this unit is ineffective or damaged, the entire handle and light bar unit
must be replaced.
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Fig. 35: Identifying Latch Tab, Light Bar Unit & Lens

2. Reach under the liftgate handle and light bar unit (2) to access and depress the latch tab (1) on the
outboard side of the license plate lamp lens toward the lens (3).
3. Pull the outboard side of the lens downward far enough to disengage the two tabs on the inboard side of
the lens from the lamp housing.
4. Remove the lens from under the handle and light bar.
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Fig. 36: Identifying Socket & Bulb

5. Firmly grasp and pull the bulb (2) straight out of the socket (1) in the outboard side of the lamp housing.
INSTALLATION
LICENSE PLATE LAMP BULB
or the lamp wiring.
NOTE: The following procedure is for replacement of a license plate lamp bulb. The
license plate lamps are integral to the liftgate handle and light bar unit. If any
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part of this unit is ineffective or damaged, the entire handle and light bar unit
must be replaced.
Fig. 37: Identifying Socket & Bulb

1. Align the base of the bulb (2) with the socket (1) in the outboard side of the license plate lamp housing.
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Fig. 38: Identifying Latch Tab, Light Bar Unit & Lens
3. Position the lens (3) over the lamp housing under the handle and light bar unit (2).
4. Engage the two tabs on the inboard side of the lens into the slots on the inboard side of the lamp housing.
5. Push the outboard side of the lens upward until the lens latch tab (1) is fully engaged in the lamp housing.
PARK BRAKE SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
PARK BRAKE SWITCH
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Fig. 39: Park Brake Switch

The park brake switch (1) is located on the park brake lever mechanism on the floor panel transmission tunnel
below the center floor console. This switch includes a spade-type output terminal (2) that connects the switch to
the vehicle electrical system through a dedicated take out and connector of the body wire harness. The output
terminal is integral to the stationary contact within a molded plastic insulator. A locating tab (4) on the insulator
engages a slot in the park brake lever mechanism for positive switch location. External to the insulator is a
movable leaf contact (3) with an integral grounding lug on one end and an integral actuating lever and follower
on the opposite end. The switch is secured to and grounded by a single screw to the park brake lever
mechanism.
The park brake switch cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if ineffective or damaged, it must be replaced.
OPERATION
PARK BRAKE SWITCH
The park brake switch is a normally closed, mechanically actuated leaf contact switch that is operated by the
park brake lever mechanism. The switch is grounded through its mounting to the park brake lever mechanism
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and provides a ground input to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab
Compartment Node/CCN) on a park brake switch sense circuit whenever the park brake is applied, and opens
this circuit whenever the park brake is released. The park brake switch sense input to the EMIC is used for
control of the brake indicator and may also be used as a logic input for other electronic features in the vehicle.
The park brake switch as well as the hard wired inputs and outputs of the switch may be diagnosed using
PARK BRAKE SWITCH
NOTE: If the brake indicator stays ON with the ignition switch in the ON position and
the park brake released, or comes ON while driving, the brake system must be
diagnosed and repaired prior to performing the following tests. Refer to
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING . If no brake system problem is found, the following
procedures will help to locate a shorted or open park brake switch sense
circuit, or an ineffective park brake switch.
INDICATOR ILLUMINATES DURING BULB TEST, BUT DOES NOT WHEN PARK BRAKE APPLIED
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Disconnect the wire harness connector for the park
brake switch from the switch terminal. Apply the parking brake. Check for continuity between the park
brake switch terminal and a good ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to step 2. If not OK,
replace the ineffective park brake switch.
2. Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector from the cluster connector receptacle. Check for
continuity between the park brake switch sense circuit cavities of the wire harness connector for the park
brake switch and the wire harness connector for the instrument cluster. There should be continuity. If not
OK, repair the open park brake switch sense circuit between the park brake switch and the instrument
cluster as required.
INDICATOR REMAINS ILLUMINATED - BRAKE SYSTEM CHECKS OK
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Disconnect the wire harness connector for the park
brake switch from the switch terminal. Check for continuity between the terminal of the park brake
switch and a good ground. There should be no continuity with the park brake released, and continuity
with the park brake applied. If OK, go to step 2. If not OK, replace the ineffective park brake switch.
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2. Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector from the cluster connector receptacle. Check for
continuity between the park brake switch sense circuit cavity of the wire harness connector for the park
brake switch and a good ground. There should be no continuity. If not OK, repair the shorted park brake
switch sense circuit between the park brake switch and the instrument cluster as required.
REMOVAL
PARK BRAKE SWITCH
Fig. 40: Identifying Park Brake Switch, Wire Harness Connector, Parking Brake Lever Mechanism &
Screw

2. Remove the console from the floor panel transmission tunnel. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Apply the parking brake lever mechanism (3).
4. Disconnect the wire harness connector (2) from the terminal of the park brake switch (1) located on the
left side of the park brake lever mechanism.
5. Remove the screw (4) that secures the park brake switch to the park brake lever mechanism.
6. Remove the switch from the park brake lever mechanism.
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INSTALLATION
PARK BRAKE SWITCH
Fig. 41: Identifying Park Brake Switch, Wire Harness Connector, Parking Brake Lever Mechanism &
Screw
1. Position park brake switch (1) onto the left side of the park brake lever mechanism (3). Be certain to
engage the locating pin on the back of the switch insulator into the locating slot in the lever mechanism
bracket.
2. Install and tighten the screw (4) that secures the park brake switch to the park brake lever mechanism.
Tighten the screw to 2.5 N.m (24 in. lbs.).
3. Reconnect the wire harness connector (2) to the terminal of the park brake switch.
4. Reinstall the console onto the floor panel transmission tunnel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
6. Turn the ignition switch to the On position and check for proper brake indicator operation with the
parking brake applied, then release the parking brake and check that the brake indicator extinguishes.
REAR LAMP UNIT
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REMOVAL
REAR LAMP UNIT
Fig. 42: Identifying Wire Harness Connector, Plastic Grommets, Plastic Push-Pin Fasteners & Rear
Lamp Unit

2. Open the liftgate to access and remove the two plastic push-pin fasteners (3) that secure the rear lamp unit
(4) to the side jamb of the liftgate opening.
3. Pull the outboard side of the rear lamp unit rearward far enough to unsnap the two ball studs on the
outboard side of the lamp housing from the two plastic grommets (2) in the rear body sheet metal.
4. Disconnect the wire harness connector (1) from the connector receptacle on the socket plate on the back
of the lamp housing.
5. Remove the lamp from the vehicle.
6. Remove the two plastic grommets from the rear body sheet metal and discard.
REAR LAMP UNIT BULB
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Fig. 43: Identifying Rear Lamp Unit, Two Screws, Socket Plate
NOTE: The rear lamp unit may contain up to four bulbs, depending upon the market for
which the vehicle was manufactured. The service procedures for each bulb are
the same, only the bulb sizes and types may differ.

2. Remove the rear lamp unit (1) from the rear body sheet metal. See REMOVAL.
3. Remove the two screws (2) that secure the socket plate (3) to the back of the rear lamp unit housing.
4. Remove the socket plate from the rear lamp.
5. Pull the base of the bulb straight out of the socket plate.
INSTALLATION
REAR LAMP UNIT
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Fig. 44: Identifying Wire Harness Connector, Plastic Grommets, Plastic Push-Pin Fasteners & Rear
Lamp Unit
1. Install two new plastic grommets (2) into the rear body sheet metal.
2. Position the rear lamp unit (4) to the lamp opening in the rear body sheet metal.
3. Reconnect the wire harness connector (1) to the connector receptacle on the socket plate on the back of
the lamp housing.
4. Align the two ball studs on the outboard side of the rear lamp housing with the two plastic grommets in
the rear body sheet metal.
5. Using hand pressure, push firmly and evenly on the outboard side of the lamp until the two ball studs
snap into the plastic grommets.
6. Install the two plastic push-pin fasteners (3) that secure the inboard side of the lamp housing to the side
jamb of the liftgate opening.
REAR LAMP UNIT BULB
or the lamp wiring.
Fig. 45: Identifying Rear Lamp Unit, Two Screws, Socket Plate
NOTE: The rear lamp unit may contain up to four bulbs, depending upon the market for
which the vehicle was manufactured. The service procedures for each bulb are
the same, only the bulb sizes and types may differ.
1. Align the base of the bulb with the socket in the rear lamp unit socket plate (3).
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3. Be certain that a rubber sealing washer is properly installed and in good condition around the base of each
bulb on the socket plate.
4. Align the bulbs in the socket plate with the openings on the back of the rear lamp unit housing (1).
5. Insert the bulbs straight into the housing until the socket plate is firmly seated against the housing.
6. Install and tighten the two screws (2) that secure the socket plate to the housing. Tighten the screws to 1
N.m (12 in. lbs.).
7. Reinstall the rear lamp unit onto the end of the rear body sheet metal. See INSTALLATION.
REPEATER LAMP
REMOVAL
REPEATER LAMP
NOTE: Repeater lamps are used only on vehicles manufactured for certain markets
where these lamps are required.
Fig. 46: Identifying Fender, Wire Harness Connector & Lamp Lens/Housing
NOTE: The same repeater lamp is used on both sides of the vehicle. Regardless
of which side of the vehicle the lamp is on, when properly oriented the
fixed hook tab integral to the back of the lamp housing is on the right-hand
side of the lamp and the latch feature is on the left-hand side.
2. Using hand pressure, press the right edge of the repeater lamp lens/housing (3) toward the left against the
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spring pressure of the latch feature, then pull the right edge of the lamp outward far enough to disengage
the hook tab from the right side of the mounting hole in the fender (1).
3. Pull the lamp out from the fender far enough to access and disconnect the wire harness connector (2) from
the bulb socket on the back of the lamp lens/housing.
4. Remove the repeater lamp from the fender.
REPEATER LAMP BULB
Fig. 47: Identifying Socket, Rubber O-Ring Seal, Bulb & Repeater Lamp Lens/Housing
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2. Remove the repeater lamp from the fender mounting hole, but do not disconnect the wire harness
connector. See REMOVAL.
3. Firmly grasp the bulb socket (1) on the back of the lamp lens/housing (4) and rotate it counterclockwise
5. Pull the base of the bulb (3) straight out of the socket.
INSTALLATION
REPEATER LAMP BULB
or the lamp wiring.
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Fig. 48: Identifying Socket, Rubber O-Ring Seal, Bulb & Repeater Lamp Lens/Housing
1. Align the base of the bulb (3) with the socket (1).
3. Be certain that a rubber O-ring seal (2) is properly installed and in good condition around the base of the
bulb socket.
4. Align the socket and bulb with the keyed opening on the back of the repeater lamp lens/housing (4).
7. Reinstall the repeater lamp into the fender mounting hole. See INSTALLATION.
REPEATER LAMP
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Fig. 49: Identifying Fender, Wire Harness Connector & Lamp Lens/Housing
1. Position the repeater lamp lens/housing (3) close enough to the mounting hole in the fender (1) to access
and reconnect the wire harness connector (2) to the bulb socket on the back of the lamp lens/housing.
NOTE: The same repeater lamp is used on both sides of the vehicle. Regardless
of which side of the vehicle the lamp is on, when properly oriented the
fixed hook tab integral to the back of the lamp housing is on the right-hand
side of the lamp and the latch feature is on the left-hand side.
2. With the lamp lens/housing properly oriented, engage the hook tab on the back of the right side of the
lamp with the right edge of the fender mounting hole.
3. Using hand pressure, press the left side of the lamp lens/housing into the mounting hole against the spring
pressure of the latch feature until the latch snaps into place.
TRAILER TOW CONNECTOR
REMOVAL
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Fig. 50: Identifying Body Wire Harness Connector, Bracket & Trailer Tow Connector

2. Reach underneath and behind the bracket (2) for the trailer tow connector (3) to access and disconnect the
body wire harness connector (1).
Fig. 51: Identifying Trailer Tow Connector & Bracket

3. Grasp the trailer tow connector (1) firmly from the face of the bracket (2) and rotate it 90 degrees
counterclockwise to unlock it.
4. Pull the trailer tow connector straight rearward to remove it from the hitch receiver bracket.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 52: Identifying Trailer Tow Connector & Bracket

1. Align the trailer tow connector (1) to the keyed mounting hole in the bracket (2) of the trailer hitch
receiver.
2. Insert the connector into the bracket until it is firmly seated.
3. Rotate the connector clockwise 90 degrees to lock it into place.
Fig. 53: Identifying Body Wire Harness Connector, Bracket & Trailer Tow Connector
4. Reach underneath and behind the bracket (2) for the trailer tow connector (3) to access and reconnect the
body wire harness connector (1).
TRAILER TOW WIRING
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DESCRIPTION
TRAILER TOW WIRING
Fig. 54: Trailer Tow Wiring

Vehicles equipped with an optional factory-installed trailer towing package have a rear body wire harness that
includes a trailer tow wiring take out (2) secured beneath the rear underbody with retainer clips (1 and 3). A
molded connector (4) at the end of the take out is connected to a heavy duty, sealed, 7-pin trailer tow connector
located on a bracket on the trailer hitch receiver. The rear body harness includes a second take out with a trailer
tow relay connector bank and the four trailer tow relays that isolate the right turn signal, left turn signal, and
brake lamp circuits of the vehicle from the electrical system of the trailer. The fourth relay in the connector
bank provides a fused ignition switch output (run) source of battery voltage to the trailer tow connector through
a trailer tow relay output circuit.
The package also includes an adapter harness (stored beneath the left rear seat cushion of the vehicle when it is
shipped from the factory) that adapts the 7-pin trailer tow connector to a standard, light-duty, 4-pin trailer tow
connector. Refer to the appropriate wiring information.
TURN SIGNAL CANCEL CAM
DESCRIPTION
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The turn signal cancel cam is concealed within the clockspring case on the steering column. The turn signal
cancel cam consists of integral eccentrics on the outer circumference of the molded plastic clockspring rotor.
The clockspring mechanism provides turn signal cancellation as well as a constant electrical connection
between the horn switch, driver airbag, speed control switches, Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC)
switches and remote radio switches on the steering wheel and the instrument panel wire harness on the steering
column. The housing of the clockspring is secured to the steering column and remains stationary. The rotor of
the clockspring, including the turn signal cancel cam lobes rotate with the steering wheel.
The turn signal cancel cam is serviced as a unit with the clockspring and cannot be repaired. If ineffective or
damaged, the entire clockspring unit must be replaced. Refer to REMOVAL .
OPERATION
When the left multi-function switch control stalk is moved to a latched turn signal ON position, a turn signal
cancel actuator is extended from the inside surface of the switch housing through a small rectangular opening
on the left side of the clockspring case toward the turn signal cancel cam. As the steering wheel is rotated to
complete the turn, one of the cam eccentrics will contact the actuator, automatically cancelling the turn signal
event and releasing the latched left multi-function switch control stalk to the neutral or OFF position.
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2007 ENGINE Fuel System - Nitro
2007 ENGINE
Fuel System - Nitro
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATION
Accelerator Pedal 12 - 105
Bracket Mounting Nuts
Crankshaft Position 28 21 -
Sensor - 3.7L
Crankshaft Position 28 21 -
Sensor - 4.0L
Fuel Filler Hose Clamp at 3 - 30
Tank
Fuel Filler Housing-to- 2 - 17
Body Screws
Fuel Filler Tube Clamp 3.5 - 30
Fuel Rail Mounting Bolts 11 -
100
- 3.7L
Fuel Rail Mounting Bolts 11 -
100
- 4.0L
Fuel Tank Mounting 61 45 -
Strap Bolts
Map Sensor Mounting 3 - 25
Screws
O2 Sensor 30 22 -
Throttle Body Mounting 7.5 - 65
Bolts - 3.7L
Throttle Body Mounting 5.6 - 50
Bolts - 4.0L
Oxygen Sensors 41 30 -
FUEL DELIVERY - GAS

OPERATION
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM
Fuel is picked up in the fuel tank by the fuel pump module. This module is located on the bottom of the fuel
tank.
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A fuel return system is provided within the fuel pump module using check valves. A separate fuel return line
from the engine to the tank is not used.
The fuel pressure regulator and the main fuel filter are combined within the fuel pump module.
The fuel tank assembly consists of: the fuel tank, fuel pump module assembly, fuel pump module lock
ring/gasket, ORVR components. Refer to DESCRIPTION .
A fuel filler/vent tube assembly using a pressure/vacuum, 1/4 turn fuel filler cap is used. A one-way check valve
is installed into the tanks fuel fill fitting.
Also to be considered part of the fuel system is the evaporation control system and ORVR system. This is
designed to reduce the emission of fuel vapors into the atmosphere.
Both fuel filters are designed for extended service. They do not require normal scheduled maintenance.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
DRAINING FUEL TANK - GAS
Fig. 1: Identifying Fuel Fill Hose, Clamp, Fuel Tank Fitting & Tank

2. Remove fuel fill cap.
4. Remove fuel fill hose clamp (2) at rear of tank (6).
5. Remove fuel fill hose (1) from fuel tank fitting (4).
6. Position a drain hose into the fuel fill hose opening. Note that a small flapper valve is installed into the
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opening.
7. Drain fuel tank using an approved gasoline, or diesel fuel draining station.
FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE

2. Remove fuel pump fuse from Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). For location of fuse, refer to
label on underside of TIPM cover.
3. Start and run engine until it stalls.
4. Attempt restarting engine until it will no longer run.
5. Turn ignition key to OFF position.
6. Place a rag or towel below fuel line quick-connect fitting at fuel rail.
7. Disconnect quick-connect fitting at fuel rail. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
8. When the repair is complete, return fuel pump fuse to TIPM.
9. One or more Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) may have been stored in PCM memory due to fuel pump
fuse removal. A diagnostic scan tool must be used to erase a DTC.
SPECIFICATIONS
FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
400 kPa +/- 34 kPa (58 psi +/- 5 psi).
SPECIAL TOOLS
FUEL SYSTEM
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Fig. 2: Test Kit, Fuel Pressure 50

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Fig. 3: Adapters, Fuel Pressure Test

Fig. 4: Lockring Remover/Installer 9340

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Fig. 5: O2S (Oxygen Sensor) Remover/Installer

FILTER-FUEL
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator are combined within the fuel pump module assembly. They are not
serviceable.
SENSOR-FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT
DESCRIPTION
FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT SENSOR
The fuel gauge sending unit (fuel level sensor) is attached to the fuel pump module. The sending unit consists of
a float, an arm, and a variable resistor track (card).
The sensor is serviceable.
REMOVAL
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Fig. 6: Removing/Installing Fuel Tank

1. Drain and remove fuel tank (4). Refer to REMOVAL .

2. Remove the fuel pump module. See REMOVAL.
3. Remove the fuel level sending unit.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the fuel level sending unit to the module.

2. Install the fuel pump module in the tank. See INSTALLATION.
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3. Install fuel tank (4). See INSTALLATION.
LINES-FUEL
DESCRIPTION
FUEL LINES
See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
WARNING: The fuel system may be under a constant pressure (even with the engine
off). Before servicing any fuel system hoses, fittings, lines, or most
components, fuel system pressure must be released. Refer to the FUEL
SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE procedure.
The lines/tubes/hoses used on fuel injected vehicles are of a special construction. This is due to the higher fuel
pressures and the possibility of contaminated fuel in this system. If it is necessary to replace these
lines/tubes/hoses, only those marked EFM/EFI may be used.
If equipped: The hose clamps used to secure rubber hoses on fuel injected vehicles are of a special rolled edge
construction. This construction is used to prevent the edge of the clamp from cutting into the hose. Only these
rolled edge type clamps may be used in this system. All other types of clamps may cut into the hoses and cause
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high-pressure fuel leaks.
Use new original equipment type hose clamps.
FITTING-QUICK CONNECT
DESCRIPTION
Different types of quick-connect fittings are used to attach the various fuel system components, lines and tubes.
These are: a single-button type, a two-button type, a pinch type, a single-tab type, a two-tab type or a plastic
retainer ring type. Some are equipped with safety latch clips. Some may require the use of a special tool for
disconnection and removal. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
CAUTION: Before separating a quick-connect fitting, pay attention to what type of

fitting is being used by referring to Quick-Connect Fitting Removal. This
will prevent unnecessary fitting or fitting latch breakage.
CAUTION: The interior components (O-rings, clips) of quick-connect fittings are not
serviced separately, but new plastic spacers and latches are available for
some types. If service parts are not available, do not attempt to repair the
damaged fitting or fuel line (tube). If repair is necessary, replace the
complete fuel line (tube) assembly.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
Different types of quick-connect fittings are used to attach the various fuel system components, lines and tubes.
These are: a single-button type, a two-button type, a pinch type, a single-tab type, a two-tab type or a plastic
retainer ring type. Some are equipped with safety latch clips. Some may require the use of a special tool for
disconnection and removal.
DISCONNECTING
WARNING: The fuel system is under a constant pressure (even with engine off).
Before servicing any fuel system hose, fitting or line, fuel system
pressure must be released. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE
procedure.
CAUTION: Before separating a quick-connect fitting, pay attention to what type of

fitting is being used by referring to Quick-Connect Fitting Removal. This
will prevent unnecessary fitting or fitting latch breakage.
CAUTION: The interior components (O-rings, clips) of quick-connect fittings are not
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serviced separately, but new plastic spacers and latches are available for
some types. If service parts are not available, do not attempt to repair the
damaged fitting or fuel line (tube). If repair is necessary, replace the
complete fuel line (tube) assembly.
1. Perform fuel pressure release procedure. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE Procedure.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
3. Clean fitting of any foreign material before disassembly.
Fig. 8: Single Button Fitting

4. Single-Button Type Fitting: This type of fitting is equipped with a single push-button (2) located on the
quick-connect fitting.
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Fig. 9: Fitting Latches

5. The push-button is attached to two internal latches (1). To disconnect, press on push-button with your
thumb and unlatch fitting from fuel line. Special tools are not required for disconnection. DO NOT
ATTEMPT TO PRY OR PULL UP ON PUSH-BUTTON. LATCHES WILL BE BROKEN.
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Fig. 10: 2-Button Type Fitting

6. Perform fuel pressure release procedure. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE Procedure.
7. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
8. Clean fitting of any foreign material before disassembly.
9. 2-Button Type Fitting: This type of fitting (1) is equipped with a push-button located on each side of
quick-connect fitting (2). Press on both buttons simultaneously for removal. Special tools are not required
for disconnection.
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Fig. 11: Pinch Type Quick-Connect Fitting

10. Pinch-Type Fitting: This fitting (1) is equipped with two finger tabs (2). Pinch both tabs together while
removing fitting. Special tools are not required for disconnection.
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Fig. 12: Single-Tab Type Fitting

11. Single-Tab Type Fitting: This type of fitting (3) is equipped with a single pull tab (1). The tab is
removable. After tab is removed, quick-connect fitting can be separated from fuel system component.
Special tools are not required for disconnection.
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Fig. 13: Disconnecting Single-Tab Type Fitting

12. Press release tab on side of fitting to release pull tab (1). If release tab is not pressed prior to releasing
pull tab, pull tab will be damaged.
13. While pressing release tab on side of fitting, use screwdriver (2) to pry up pull tab.
14. Raise pull tab until it separates from quick-connect fitting.
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Fig. 14: Typical Two-Tab Type Quick-Connect Fitting

15. Two-Tab Type Fitting: This type of fitting (2) is equipped with tabs located on both sides of fitting (1).
The tabs are supplied for disconnecting quick-connect fitting from component being serviced.
 To disconnect quick-connect fitting, squeeze plastic retainer tabs (1) against sides of quick-connect
fitting with your fingers. Tool use is not required for removal and may damage plastic retainer.
 Pull fitting from fuel system component being serviced.
 The plastic retainer will remain on component being serviced after fitting is disconnected. The O-
rings and spacer will remain in quick-connect fitting connector body.
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Fig. 15: Plastic Retainer Ring Type Fitting

16. Plastic Retainer Ring Type Fitting: This type of fitting can be identified by the use of a full-round
plastic retainer ring (4) usually black in color.
 To release fuel system component from quick-connect fitting, firmly push fitting towards
component being serviced while firmly pushing plastic retainer ring into fitting (6). With plastic
ring depressed, pull fitting from component. The plastic retainer ring must be pressed squarely
into fitting body. If this retainer is cocked during removal, it may be difficult to disconnect
fitting. Use an open-end wrench on shoulder of plastic retainer ring to aid in disconnection.
 After disconnection, plastic retainer ring will remain with quick-connect fitting connector body.
 Inspect fitting connector body, plastic retainer ring and fuel system component for damage.
Replace as necessary.
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Fig. 16: Latch Clip-Type 1

17. Latch Clips - Type 1: Depending on vehicle model and engine, 2 different types of safety latch clips are
used. Type-1 (4) is tethered to fuel line and type-2 is not. A special tool will be necessary to disconnect
fuel line after latch clip is removed. The latch clip may be used on certain fuel line/fuel rail connection, or
to join fuel lines together.
18. Pry up on latch clip with a screwdriver (3).
19. Slide latch clip toward fuel rail while lifting with screwdriver.
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Fig. 17: Fuel Line Disconnection Using Special Tool

20. Insert special fuel line removal tool (Snap-On number FIH 9055-1 or equivalent) into fuel line (1). Use
tool to release locking fingers in end of line.
21. With special tool still inserted, pull fuel line from fuel rail.
22. After disconnection, locking fingers will remain within quick-connect fitting at end of fuel line.
23. Disconnect quick-connect fitting from fuel system component being serviced.
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Fig. 18: Latch Clip-Type 2 Disconnect

24. Latch Clips - Type 2: Depending on vehicle model and engine, 2 different types of safety latch clips are
used. Type-1 is tethered to fuel line and type-2 is not. A special tool will be necessary to disconnect fuel
line after latch clip is removed. The latch clip may be used on certain fuel line/fuel rail connection, or to
join fuel lines together.
25. Type 2: Separate and unlatch small arms on end of clip and swing away from fuel line.
26. Slide latch clip toward fuel rail while lifting with screwdriver.
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Fig. 19: Fuel Line Disconnection Using Special Tool

27. Insert special fuel line removal tool (Snap-On number FIH 9055-1 or equivalent) into fuel line (1). Use
tool to release locking fingers in end of line.
28. With special tool still inserted, pull fuel line from fuel rail.
29. After disconnection, locking fingers will remain within quick-connect fitting at end of fuel line.
30. Disconnect quick-connect fitting from fuel system component being serviced.
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Fig. 20: EVAP Can. Vapor Hose

31. Wing Type: A special tool will not be necessary to disconnect this type of fitting (2). This line is used on
different fuel and emission components. The graphic shows the fitting used on an EVAP canister.
32. Use two fingers to push on fitting wings (2)
33. Pull and disconnect fitting while holding wings.
34. After disconnection, locking fingers will remain within quick-connect fitting.
CONNECTING
1. Inspect quick-connect fitting body and fuel system component for damage. Replace as necessary.
2. Prior to connecting quick-connect fitting to component being serviced, check condition of fitting and
component. Clean parts with a lint-free cloth. Lubricate with clean engine oil.
3. Insert quick-connect fitting into fuel tube or fuel system component until built-on stop on fuel tube or
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component rests against back of fitting.

4. Continue pushing until a click is felt.
5. Single-tab type fitting: Push new tab down until it locks into place in quick-connect fitting.
6. Verify a locked condition by firmly pulling on fuel tube and fitting (15-30 lbs.).
7. Latch Clip Equipped: Install latch clip (snaps into position). If latch clip will not fit, this indicates fuel
line is not properly installed to fuel rail (or other fuel line). Recheck fuel line connection.
REGULATOR-FUEL PRESSURE
DESCRIPTION
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
The fuel pressure regulator is located within the fuel pump module. It is serviced by replacing the fuel pump
module assembly.
PUMP-FUEL
DESCRIPTION
FUEL PUMP
The electric fuel pump is located inside of the fuel pump module. A 12 volt, permanent magnet, electric motor
powers the fuel pump. The electric fuel pump is not a separate, serviceable component.
OPERATION
FUEL PUMP
Voltage to operate the electric pump is supplied through the fuel pump relay.
Fuel is drawn in through a filter at the bottom of the module and pushed through the electric motor gearset to
the pump outlet.
Check Valve Operation: The fuel pump module contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel flow back into
the tank and to maintain fuel supply line pressure (engine warm) when pump is not operational. It is also used to
keep the fuel supply line full of gasoline when pump is not operational. After the vehicle has cooled down, fuel
pressure may drop to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will remain in fuel supply line between the
check valve and fuel injectors.Fuel pressure that has dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle (engine off)
is a normal condition.
The electric fuel pump is not a separate, serviceable component.
MODULE-FUEL PUMP
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REMOVAL
FUEL PUMP MODULE
WARNING: The fuel system is under a constant pressure (even with the engine off).
Before servicing the fuel pump module, the fuel system pressure must be
released. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE
Fig. 21: Identifying Drive Breaker Bar, Lockring Remover/Installer Tool 9340 & Lockring
1. Drain and remove fuel tank. Refer to REMOVAL .

2. Note rotational position of module before attempting removal. An indexing arrow is located on top of
module for this purpose.
3. Position special Lockring Remover/Installer tool 9340 (3) into notches on outside edge of lockring (5).
4. Install 1/2 inch drive breaker bar (1) to special Lockring Remover/Installer tool 9340 (3).
5. Rotate breaker bar counter-clockwise to remove lockring.
6. Remove lockring. The module will spring up slightly when lockring is removed.
7. Remove module from fuel tank. Be careful not to bend float arm while removing.
INSTALLATION
FUEL PUMP MODULE
CAUTION: Whenever the fuel pump module is serviced, the rubber seal (gasket) must
be replaced.
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Fig. 22: Identifying Drive Breaker, Lockring Remover/Installer 9340 & Lockring
1. Using a new seal (gasket), position fuel pump module into opening in fuel tank.
2. Position lockring (5) over top of fuel pump module.
3. Rotate module until embossed alignment arrow points to center alignment mark. This step must be
performed to prevent float from contacting side of fuel tank.
4. Install Lockring Remover/Installer 9340 (3) to lockring.
5. Install 1/2 inch drive breaker (1) into Lockring Remover/Installer 9340 (3).
6. Tighten lockring (clockwise) until all seven notches have engaged.
7. Install fuel tank.
RAIL-FUEL
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 3.7L
WARNING: The fuel system is under constant pressure even with engine off. Before
servicing fuel rail, fuel system pressure must be released.
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Fig. 23: Removing/Installing Fuel Rail - 3.7L

1 - MOUNTING BOLTS (4)

2 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
3 - FUEL RAIL
4 - INJ. #1
5 - INJ. #3
6 - INJ. #5
7 - INJ. #2
8 - INJ. #4
9 - INJ. #6
10 - CONNECTOR TUBE
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CAUTION: The left and right fuel rails are replaced as an assembly. Do not attempt to
separate rail halves at connector tube (10). Due to design of tube, it does
not use any clamps. Never attempt to install a clamping device of any kind
to tube. When removing fuel rail assembly for any reason, be careful not to
bend or kink tube.
1. Remove fuel tank filler tube cap.

2. Perform Fuel System Pressure Release Procedure. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
3. Remove negative battery cable at battery.
4. Remove air duct at throttle body air box.
5. Remove air box at throttle body.
6. Disconnect fuel line latch clip and fuel line at fuel rail. A special tool will be necessary for fuel line
disconnection. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
7. Remove necessary vacuum/vapor lines at throttle body.
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Fig. 24: Removing/Installing Fuel Injectors Electrical Connectors

8. Disconnect electrical connectors at all 6 fuel injectors. Push red colored slider away from injector (1).
While pushing slider, depress tab (2) and remove connector (3) from injector. The factory fuel injection
wiring harness is numerically tagged (INJ 1, INJ 2, etc.) for injector position identification. If harness is
not tagged, note wiring location before removal.
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9. Disconnect electrical connectors at throttle body sensors.

10. Remove 6 ignition coils. Refer to REMOVAL .
Fig. 25: Removing/Installing Fuel Rail - 3.7L

1 - MOUNTING BOLTS (4)

2 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
3 - FUEL RAIL
4 - INJ. #1
5 - INJ. #3
6 - INJ. #5
7 - INJ. #2
8 - INJ. #4
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9 - INJ. #6
10 - CONNECTOR TUBE
11. Remove four fuel rail mounting bolts (1).

12. Gently rock and pull left side of fuel rail until fuel injectors just start to clear machined holes in cylinder
head. Gently rock and pull right side of rail until injectors just start to clear cylinder head holes. Repeat
this procedure (left/right) until all injectors have cleared cylinder head holes.
13. Remove fuel rail (with injectors attached) from engine.
14. If fuel injectors are to be removed, see REMOVAL.
REMOVAL
Fig. 26: Identifying Fuel Line, Mounting Bolts, Electrical Connectors & Fuel Rail

2. Perform Fuel System Pressure Release Procedure.
3. Remove negative battery cable at battery.
4. Disconnect air duct at throttle body.
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5. Remove air intake ducts between throttle body and air filter assembly.
6. Remove upper half of intake manifold.
7. Disconnect electrical connectors (3) at all six fuel injectors. For procedures, proceed to step 10.
8. Disconnect fuel line latch clip and fuel line (1) at fuel rail. A special tool will be necessary for fuel line
disconnection. Refer to FITTING-QUICK CONNECT for removal procedures.
9. Remove necessary vacuum/vapor lines at throttle body.
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10. Push red colored slider away from injector (1). While pushing slider, depress tab (2) and remove
connector (3) from injector. The factory fuel injection wiring harness is numerically tagged (INJ 1, INJ 2,
etc.) for injector position identification. If harness is not tagged, note wiring location before removal.
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11. Disconnect electrical connectors at throttle body sensors.
12. Remove four fuel rail mounting bolts (2).

13. Gently rock and pull left side of fuel rail until fuel injectors just start to clear machined holes in cylinder
head. Gently rock and pull right side of rail until injectors just start to clear cylinder head holes. Repeat
this procedure (left/right) until all injectors have cleared cylinder head holes.
14. Remove fuel rail (with injectors attached) from engine.
15. If fuel injectors are to be removed, refer to Fuel Injector REMOVAL.
INSTALLATION
FUEL RAIL
1. If fuel injectors are to be installed, refer to INSTALLATION .

2. Clean out fuel injector machined bores in intake manifold.
3. Apply a small amount of engine oil to each fuel injector O-ring. This will help in fuel rail installation.
4. Position fuel rail/fuel injector assembly to machined injector openings in cylinder head.
5. Guide each injector into cylinder head. Be careful not to tear injector O-rings.
6. Push right side of fuel rail down until fuel injectors have bottomed on cylinder head shoulder. Push left
fuel rail down until injectors have bottomed on cylinder head shoulder.
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7. Install four fuel rail mounting bolts and tighten to 11 N.m (100 in. lbs.).
8. Install six ignition coils. Refer to INSTALLATION .
9. Connect electrical connectors to throttle body.

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10. Connect electrical connectors at all fuel injectors. Push connector onto injector (1) and then push and lock
red colored slider (2). Verify connector is locked to injector by lightly tugging on connector.
11. Connect necessary vacuum/vapor lines to throttle body.
12. Connect fuel line latch clip and fuel line to fuel rail.
13. Install air box to throttle body.
14. Install air duct to air box.
15. Connect battery cable to battery.
INSTALLATION
1. If fuel injectors are to be installed, refer to Fuel Injector INSTALLATION.

2. Clean out fuel injector machined bores in intake manifold.
3. Apply a small amount of engine oil to each fuel injector O-ring. This will help in fuel rail installation.
4. Position fuel rail/fuel injector assembly to machined injector openings in cylinder head.
5. Guide each injector into cylinder head. Be careful not to tear injector O-rings.
6. Push right side of fuel rail down until fuel injectors have bottomed on cylinder head shoulder. Push left
fuel rail down until injectors have bottomed on cylinder head shoulder.
7. Install four fuel rail mounting bolts (2) and tighten to 11 N.m (100 in. lbs.).
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8. Connect electrical connectors (3) at all fuel injectors. Push connector onto injector and then push and lock
red colored slider. Verify connector is locked to injector by lightly tugging on connector.
9. Install upper half of intake manifold.
10. Connect electrical connectors to throttle body.
11. Connect fuel line latch clip and fuel line (1) to fuel rail.
12. Connect necessary vacuum/vapor lines to throttle body.
13. Install air intake ducts to throttle body and air filter.
14. Install fuel tank filler tube cap.
15. Connect battery cable to battery.
TANK - FUEL
REMOVAL
REMOVAL

2. Perform Fuel System Pressure Release Procedure.
Fig. 31: Disconnecting/Connecting Fuel Line Quick Connect Fittings And At Front Of Fuel Tank
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4. Disconnect fuel line quick connect fittings (1) and (2) at front of fuel tank (5).
Fig. 32: Disconnecting/Connecting Vapor Lines And At Rear Of Tank & Fuel Fill Hose And Clamp
At Rear Of Tank
5. Remove fuel fill hose and clamp (6) at rear of tank.

opening.
7. Disconnect vapor lines (4) and (5) at rear of tank.
8. Remove rear propshaft.
9. Support tank with a hydraulic jack.
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Fig. 33: Tank Support Bracket, Bolt & Nuts

10. Loosen two nuts (3) at tank support bracket (1).

11. Remove bolt (2) from tank support bracket (1).
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12. Remove tank mounting bolts (3) at both sides of tank.

13. Partially lower tank to gain access to pump module electrical connector.
14. Disconnect electrical connector at fuel pump module.
15. Continue lowering tank for removal.
16. If fuel tank is to be replaced, remove fuel pump module from tank.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
1. If fuel pump module is to be installed, install module to tank.

2. Place tank to a hydraulic jack and raise just enough to connect fuel pump module electrical connector.
3. Continue raising tank until snug to body.
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4. Install tank mounting bolts (3) at both sides of tank. Tighten to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 36: Tank Support Bracket, Bolt & Nuts

5. Tighten two nuts (3) at tank support bracket (1) to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
6. Install bolt (2). Tighten to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
7. Install rear propshaft.
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Fig. 37: Disconnecting/Connecting Vapor Lines And At Rear Of Tank & Fuel Fill Hose And Clamp
At Rear Of Tank
8. Connect vapor lines (4) and (5) at rear of tank.

9. Connect fuel fill hose and clamp (6) at rear of tank.
Fig. 38: Disconnecting Fuel Line Quick Connect Fittings And At Front Of Fuel Tank
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10. Connect fuel line quick connect fittings (1) and (2) at front of fuel tank (5).
11. Lower vehicle, fill tank with fuel and install fuel fill cap.
12. Check for fuel leaks.
FUEL DELIVERY - 2.8L DIESEL

WARNING
HIGH FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
WARNING: High-pressure fuel lines deliver fuel under extreme pressure from the
injection pump to the injectors. This may be as high as 1600bar
(23,200psi). Use extreme caution when inspecting for high-pressure fuel
leaks. Fuel under this amount of pressure can penetrate skin causing
personal injury or death. Inspect high-pressure fuel leaks with a sheet of
cardboard. Wear safety goggles and adequate protective clothing when
servicing fuel system.
FUEL SUPPLY RESTRICTIONS
LOW-PRESSURE LINES
Fuel supply line restrictions or a restricted fuel filter can cause starting problems and prevent engine from
accelerating. The starting problems include; no start, longer cranking times, low power and/or white fog like
exhaust.
Inspect all fuel supply lines for restrictions or blockage, including the fuel filter. Flush or replace as necessary.
HIGH-PRESSURE LINES
CAUTION: High-pressure lines cannot contact each other or other components. Do

not attempt to weld high-pressure fuel lines or to repair lines that are
damaged. High-pressure lines can be reused only after close inspection
for cracks or deformation around the sealing cone. Corroded pipes must
be replaced. Use only recommended lines when replacement of high-
pressure fuel line is necessary.
NOTE: High-pressure fuel lines must be replaced at each disassembly.
Restricted (kinked or bent) high-pressure lines can cause starting problems, poor engine performance, engine
mis-fire and white smoke from exhaust.
TESTING FUEL INJECTORS
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NOTE: The fuel pump pressure must be between 0.8 and 1.2 bar (13-17 psi), and engine
must be at operating temperature, engine coolant 88°C (190°F).
1. Refer to WARNING. Run engine until operating temperature is obtained.

2. Turn Off the ignition.
3. Disconnect the fuel injector fuel return hose (3) at the return hose tee directly behind the generator, next
to the air purge fitting, leaving the return hose to the high pressure injection pump connected to the pump
(1).
Fig. 39: Diesel Fuel System Components

1 - HIGH PRESSURE FUEL INJECTION PUMP

2 - FUEL PRESSURE SOLENOID
3 - AIR PURGE FITTING
4 - FUEL INJECTOR FUEL RETURN HOSE TEE
5 - HIGH PRESSURE FUEL SUPPLY LINE
6 - FUEL INJECTOR
7 - FUEL RAIL
8 - FUEL RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR
9 - FUEL RAIL RETURN LINE
4. Block off fuel return line (3) to high pressure injection pump.
5. Connect a hose to the return hose tee and place it in a suitable container.
6. Start the engine and use a suitable measuring cup to measure the return fuel flow for 1 minute at idle.
NOTE: If the quantity of fuel is above 100ml. it means one or more of the fuel
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injectors has a problem.
7. If the measured return fuel flow quantity is above 100ml, disconnect each individual injector and measure
the quantity of return fuel into the container.
NOTE: Make sure to block off the fuel return hose at each individual fuel injector
before taking a measurement.
8. Replace any fuel injector that has a return rate above 25ml. for one minute at idle. See REMOVAL.
9. If the test does not give a positive result, disconnect the fuel return line at the fuel rail. If fuel is present,
replace the fuel rail. See REMOVAL.
10. Perform the fuel system air purge procedure after replacing any components. See STANDARD
PROCEDURE.
HIGH PRESSURE LEAKS
Fig. 40: Typical Test For Fuel Leak

1 - HIGH-PRESSURE LINE
2 - CARDBOARD
3 - FITTING
WARNING: High-pressure lines deliver diesel fuel under extreme pressure from the
injection pump to the fuel injectors. This may be as high as 160,000 kpa
(23,206 psi). Use extreme caution when inspecting for high-pressure fuel
personal injury or death. Inspect for high-pressure fuel leaks with a sheet
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of cardboard. Wear safety goggles and adequate protective clothing when

High-pressure fuel leaks can cause starting problems and poor engine performance.
Carefully place a piece of cardboard (2) over the high-pressure fuel lines or suspected area. Move your body
and hands away from the area. Start the engine and run till warm. TURN THE ENGINE OFF . Inspect the
piece of cardboard for witness marks. If a high-pressure line connection is leaking, replace damaged, restricted
or leaking high-pressure fuel lines with the correct replacement line.
CAUTION: The high-pressure fuel lines cannot contact each other or other
components. Do not attempt to weld high-pressure fuel lines or to repair
lines that are damaged. Only use the recommended lines when
replacement of high-pressure fuel line is necessary.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING FUEL TANK
Fig. 41: Identifying Fuel Fill Hose, Fuel Fill Hose Clamp & Tank

4. Remove fuel fill hose clamp (2) at rear of tank (3).
5. Remove fuel fill hose (1) from fuel tank.
opening.
7. Drain fuel tank using an approved gasoline, or diesel fuel draining station.
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CLEANING FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS
CAUTION: Cleanliness cannot be overemphasized when handling or replacing diesel

fuel system components. This especially includes the fuel injectors, high-
pressure fuel lines, fuel rail, and fuel injection pump. Very tight tolerances
are used with these parts. Dirt contamination could cause rapid part wear
and possible plugging of fuel injector nozzle tip holes. This in turn could
lead to possible engine misfire. Always wash/clean any fuel system
component thoroughly before disassembly and then air dry. DO NOT wire
brush injector nozzles when cleaning. Cap or cover any open part after
disassembly. Before assembly, examine each part for dirt, grease or other
contaminants and clean if necessary. When installing new parts, lubricate
them with clean engine oil or clean diesel fuel only.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS-2.8L DIESEL
Fuel Filter Housing
10 - 89
Bleeder Screw
Crankshaft Position 11 - 97
Sensor Bolt
Crankshaft Position
11.8 - 104
Sensor Shield Bolt
Boost Pressure/Intake Air
11.8 - 104
Temperature Sensor Bolts
Return Fuel Junction
10.8 - 96
Block at Intake Manifold
Fuel Filter 18 - 159
Fuel Filter Screw to
30 22 -
Housing
High Pressure Injection 24.5 18 -
Pump Nuts
Fuel Line Fittings at
24 17 -
Pump
Fuel Rail Sensor 35 25 -
Fuel Line Fittings at
35 25 -
Filter Housing
High Pressure Injection
88.3 65 -
Pump Sprocket Nut
Fuel Injector Retaining
32.4 24 -
Bolts
High Pressure Fuel Lines
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at High Pressure Pump 28 20 247

Fuel Injector Fuel Lines 5 - 44
at Fuel Rail PLUS 75° TURN
High Pressure Fuel Feed 5 - 44
Line at Fuel Rail PLUS 75° TURN
Fuel Injector Lines at the
28 20 247
Fuel Injectors
Fuel Rail Bolts 24.5 18 -
Fuel Pressure Sensor 35 26 -
Water In Fuel Sensor 1.2 - 10
Fuel Water/Separator
24.5 24 -
Mounting Nuts
Fuel Line Hose Clamp 14.7 11 62
Fuel Quantity Solenoid 11 - 97
Fuel Tank Bolts 61 45 -
Fuel Filler Tube Clamp 3.5 - 30
APP Sensor 11 - 97
Fuel Pressure Solenoid
Refer to INSTALLATION Procedure.
Mounting Nut
SEPARATOR-FUEL FILTER/WATER
DESCRIPTION
FUEL FILTER/WATER SEPARATOR
The fuel filter/water separator assembly (8) is located on the left-rear side of the engine compartment. The
assembly includes the fuel filter (7), fuel heater (1), fuel temperature sensor (5), combination water drain
valve/Water-In-Fuel (WIF) sensor (6), and a quick-connect fittings attached at the side of the fuel filter canister.
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Fig. 42: Fuel Filter/Water Separator Components

OPERATION
The fuel filter/water separator protects the fuel injection pump by removing water and contaminants from the
fuel. The construction of the filter/separator allows fuel to pass through it, but helps prevent moisture (water)
from doing so. Moisture collects at the bottom of the filter.
Refer to the maintenance schedules in the owners manual for the recommended fuel filter replacement intervals.
For draining of water from canister, refer to Fuel Filter/Water Separator Removal/Installation.
A Water-In-Fuel (WIF) sensor is attached to the bottom of fuel filter element.
The fuel heater and fuel temperature sensor are installed into the side of the filter/separator housing.
REMOVAL
Refer to maintenance schedules, or the Owner's Manual for recommended fuel filter replacement intervals.
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DRAINING WATER FROM FUEL FILTER CANISTER:
The combination housing drain valve/WIF sensor (6) serves two purposes. One is to partially drain the filter
housing of excess water. The other is to partially drain the housing for fuel temperature sensor, fuel filter or
fuel heater element replacement.
The filter housing should be partially drained whenever the water-in-fuel warning lamp remains illuminated.
(Note that lamp will be illuminated for approximately two seconds when ignition key is initially placed in ON
position for a bulb check).
1. A nipple is located at the bottom of drain valve (6). Attach a drain hose to this nipple. Place drain pan
under drain hose.
2. With engine not running, Disconnect WIF sensor electrical connector (4) then rotate drain valve (6)
approximately two revolutions to open it. Leave open until all water and contaminants have been
removed and clean fuel exits. Hand tighten drain valve after tightening.
3. If fuel heater element is being replaced, drain housing completely. Dispose of mixture in drain pan
according to applicable regulations.
4. After draining operation, close and tighten drain valve (6).
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5. FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT:

6. Clean all debris from around filter canister (7) and canister head.
7. Open drain valve (6) two complete revolutions. Drain approximately 1 cup of fuel into a waste canister.
Dispose of fuel according to environmental regulations.
8. Remove drain hose from drain valve (6).
9. Use an oil filter type wrench to loosen filter (7). Continue removing filter by hand.
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10. WATER-IN-FUEL (WIF) SENSOR REPLACEMENT: The combination fuel drain valve/WIF sensor
(6) is located on the bottom of the fuel filter housing.
The WIF sensor is not a separately serviceable item. If diagnostics have led you to replace this sensor,
then the whole fuel filter assembly needs to be changed.
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11. FUEL HEATER ELEMENT REPLACEMENT: The fuel heater element (1) is located in the fuel filter
housing (8). To replace heater, the entire housing assembly must be replaced.
12. Drain fuel filter. See previous steps.
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13. Disconnect electrical connectors (2), (3) and (4).
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Fig. 48: Disconnecting/Connecting Quick-Connect Fittings At Housing & Removing/Installing

Housing Assembly
14. Disconnect quick-connect fittings (1), (2) and (4) at housing.

15. Remove housing mounting nuts (3).
16. Remove housing assembly.
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17. FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT: The fuel temperature sensor (5) is located in
the fuel filter housing (8). To replace sensor, the entire housing assembly must be replaced.
18. Drain fuel filter. See previous steps.
19. Disconnect electrical connectors (2), (3) and (4).
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Housing Assembly
20. Disconnect quick-connect fittings (1), (2) and (4) at housing.

21. Remove housing mounting nuts (3).
22. Remove housing assembly.
23. DRAIN VALVE REPLACEMENT: The Drain Valve is located on the bottom of the fuel filter. This is
not a separately serviceable item. If replacement is necessary, replace the entire filter/filter canister
assembly.
INSTALLATION
Refer to maintenance schedules for recommended fuel filter replacement intervals.
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1. FUEL FILTER:
2. Lubricate new fuel filter O-ring with clean engine oil.
3. Position new fuel filter/canister assembly (7) to housing.
4. Rotate fuel filter/canister assembly until it comes to a hard stop.
5. Tighten the filter element an additional half-inch of rotation.
6. Connect WIF sensor electrical connector (4).
7. Be sure drain valve (6) is tight.
8. FUEL HEATER ELEMENT OR FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR:
Both the fuel heater element and fuel temperature sensor are attached to the fuel filter housing. To replace
either of these components, the entire housing assembly must be replaced.
9. Position housing/canister assembly to body.
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Housing Assembly
10. Install housing mounting nuts (3).

11. Connect quick-connect fittings (1), (2) and (4) to housing fittings.
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12. Connect electrical connectors (2), (3) and (4).

13. WATER-IN-FUEL (WIF) SENSOR REPLACEMENT: The combination fuel drain valve/WIF sensor
is located on the bottom of the fuel filter housing.
The WIF sensor is not a separately serviceable item. If diagnostics have led you to replace this sensor,
then the whole fuel filter assembly needs to be changed.
SENSOR-WATER IN FUEL
DESCRIPTION
WATER-IN-FUEL (WIF) SENSOR - ECM INPUT
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Fig. 54: Water-In-Fuel (WIF) Sensor components

The combination drain valve/Water-In-Fuel (WIF) sensor (6) is located on the bottom of the fuel filter/water
separator filter canister.
OPERATION
WATER-IN-FUEL (WIF) SENSOR - ECM INPUT
The sensor sends an input to the Engine Control Module (ECM) when it senses water in the fuel filter/water
separator. As the water level in the filter/separator increases, the resistance across the WIF sensor decreases.
This decrease in resistance is sent as a signal to the ECM and compared to a high water standard value. Once
the value reaches 30 to 40 kilohms, the ECM will activate the water-in-fuel warning lamp through CAN bus
circuits. This all takes place when the ignition key is initially put in the ON position. The ECM continues to
monitor the input while the engine is running.
REMOVAL
WATER-IN-FUEL (WIF) SENSOR
The Water-In-Fuel (WIF) sensor is located at the bottom of fuel filter/water separator canister. Refer to
SEPARATOR-FUEL FILTER/WATER for removal and installation procedures.
HEATER - FUEL
REMOVAL
The fuel heater is located in the fuel filter/water separator canister housing. Refer to SEPARATOR-FUEL
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FILTER/WATER for removal and installation procedures.
RELAY - FUEL HEATER
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 55: Identifying Fuel Heater Relay & Electrical Connector

The fuel heater relay (1) is located in the left/rear of the engine compartment.

2. Disconnect electrical connector (2) from relay.
3. Remove relay mounting bolt and remove relay.
4. Check condition of relay connector pins for corrosion, etc.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 56: Identifying Fuel Heater Relay & Electrical Connector

The fuel heater relay (1) is located in the left/rear of the engine compartment.
1. Check condition of relay connector pins for corrosion, etc.

2. Position relay and install mounting bolt.
3. Connect electrical connector (2) to relay.
SENSOR - FUEL TEMPERATURE
REMOVAL
The fuel temperature sensor is located in the fuel filter/water separator canister housing. Refer to
SEPARATOR-FUEL FILTER/WATER for removal and installation procedures.
RAIL - FUEL
REMOVAL
REMOVAL

pressure fuel lines and fuel injection pump. Very tight tolerances are used
with these parts. Dirt contamination could cause rapid part wear and
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possible plugging of fuel injector nozzle tip holes. This in turn could lead
to possible engine misfire. Always wash/clean any fuel system component
thoroughly before disassembly and then air dry. Cap or cover any open
part after disassembly. Before assembly, examine each part for dirt,
grease or other contaminants and clean if necessary. When installing new
parts, lubricate them with clean engine oil or clean diesel fuel only.
Fig. 57: Exploded View Of Fuel Rail - 2.8L Diesel

1. Disconnect negative battery cable at battery. Isolate end of cable.

2. Remove dress-up cover from top of engine.
3. Disconnect electrical connector at fuel pressure sensor (1).
4. Disconnect electrical connector at fuel pressure solenoid (3).
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Fig. 58: Fuel Injectors - 2.8L Diesel

CAUTION: WHEN LOOSENING OR TIGHTENING HIGH-PRESSURE LINE

FITTINGS ATTACHED TO A SEPARATE FITTING, USE A BACK-UP
WRENCH ON FITTING. DO NOT ALLOW FITTING TO ROTATE.
DAMAGE TO BOTH FUEL LINE AND FITTING WILL RESULT.
5. Disconnect fuel line fittings (2) and (4) and remove four fuel lines (3). Note and mark position of each
fuel line while removing.
6. Remove fuel line clamp bolt (10).
7. Disconnect rail-to-injection pump high-pressure fuel line fittings (9) and (11) and remove fuel line (12).
Note and mark position of fuel line while removing.
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8. Remove three fuel rail mounting nuts (4).

9. Remove rail (2) from cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
NOTE: New High Pressure Fuel Line must be used any time the High Pressure Fuel
Lines have been removed.

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1. Position fuel rail (2) to cylinder head.

2. Install three fuel rail mounting nuts (4). Tighten nuts (alternately) to 24 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
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3. Install the injectors (8), the injector clamps (7) and washers (6).
4. Install the injector bolts (5). Do not tighten at this time.
5. Position and connect the high pressure line (12) between the high pressure injection pump and the fuel
rail. Do not tighten at this time.
6. Torque injector clamp bolts to 32.4 Nm (23 ft. lbs.).
7. Torque the rail side (4) of the high pressure lines between the injectors and the fuel rail to 5 Nm (44 in.
lbs.) plus an additional 75°.
8. Torque the injector side (2) of the high pressure lines between the injectors and the fuel rail to 28 Nm (20
ft. lbs.).
9. Torque the rail side (9) of the high pressure fuel line between the high pressure injection pump and the
fuel rail to 5 Nm (44 in. lbs.) plus an additional 75°.
10. Torque the high pressure pump side (11) of the high pressure fuel line between the high pressure injection
pump and the fuel rail to 28 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
11. Install fuel line clamp bolt (10). Tighten bolt to 15 N.m (11 ft. lbs.) torque.
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12. Connect electrical connectors to fuel injectors.

13. Connect electrical connector to fuel pressure solenoid (3).
14. Connect electrical connector to fuel pressure sensor (1).
15. Install the engine cover.
LINES-FUEL
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
Low-Pressure Lines Are:
The fuel supply line from fuel tank to fuel filter housing.
The fuel return line back to fuel tank.
The fuel drain line from each fuel injector.
The fuel supply line from fuel filter to fuel injection pump.
The fuel injection pump return line.
High-Pressure Lines Are:

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The fuel line from fuel injection pump to fuel rail.

The four fuel lines from fuel rail up to the fuel injectors
WARNING: High-pressure fuel lines deliver diesel fuel under extreme pressure from
the injection pump to the fuel injectors. This may be as high as 160,000
kpa (23,206 psi). Use extreme caution when inspecting for high-pressure
fuel leaks. Inspect for high-pressure fuel leaks with a sheet of cardboard.
High fuel injection pressure can cause personal injury if contact is made
with the skin.
OPERATION
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINES
High-Pressure Lines
lines that are damaged. If lines are ever kinked or bent, they must be
replaced. Use only the recommended lines when replacement of high-
pressure fuel line is necessary.
High-pressure fuel lines deliver fuel (under pressure) of up to approximately 160,000 kpa (23,206 psi) from the
injection pump to the fuel injectors. The lines expand and contract from the high-pressure fuel pulses generated
during the injection process. All high-pressure fuel lines are of the same length and inside diameter. Correct
high-pressure fuel line usage and installation is critical to smooth engine operation.
WARNING: Use extreme caution when inspecting for high-pressure fuel leaks.
Inspect for high-pressure fuel leaks with a sheet of cardboard. High fuel
injection pressure can cause personal injury if contact is made with the
skin.
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINE LEAK TEST
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Fig. 63: High-Pressure Fuel Line Leak Test

1 - HIGH-PRESSURE LINE
2 - CARDBOARD
3 - TYPICAL HIGH-PRESSURE FITTING
High-pressure fuel line leaks can cause starting problems and poor engine performance.
WARNING: Due to extreme fuel pressures of up to 160,000 kpa (23,207 psi), use
extreme caution when inspecting for high-pressure fuel leaks. Do not get
your hand or a finger near a suspected leak. Inspect for high-pressure
fuel leaks with a sheet of cardboard (2) (typical picture). High fuel
injection pressure can cause personal injury if contact is made with the
skin.
Start the engine. Move the cardboard (2) over the suspected high-pressure fuel line leak, and check for fuel
spray onto the cardboard. If line is leaking, retorque line while engine is shutdown. Replace damaged, restricted
or leaking high-pressure fuel lines with the correct replacement line.
lines that are damaged. Only use the recommended lines when
replacement of high-pressure fuel line is necessary.
REMOVAL
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3. Disconnect fuel line fittings (2) and (4) and remove four fuel lines (3). Note and mark position of each
fuel line while removing.
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4. Remove fuel line clamp bolt (10).

5. Disconnect rail-to-injection pump high-pressure fuel line fittings (9) and (11) and remove fuel line (12).
Note and mark position of fuel line while removing.
INSTALLATION
All high-pressure fuel lines are of the same length and inside diameter. Correct high-pressure fuel line usage
and installation is critical to smooth engine operation.


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CAUTION: WHEN LOOSENING OR TIGHTENING HIGH-PRESSURE LINE FITTINGS

ATTACHED TO A SEPARATE FITTING, USE A BACK-UP WRENCH ON
FITTING. DO NOT ALLOW FITTING TO ROTATE. DAMAGE TO BOTH FUEL
LINE AND FITTING WILL RESULT.
1. Position the injectors with the clamp and washer into the cylinder head seat.
2. Hand tighten the injector clamp bolts.
3. Install the high pressure fuel line.
4. Hand tighten the high pressure fuel line.
5. Torque the fuel injector clamp bolts to 32 Nm (23 ft. lbs.).
6. Torque the high pressure fuel rail nuts to 25 Nm (221 in. lbs.).
7. Torque the high pressure fuel line on the fuel injector to 28 Nm (247 in. lbs.).
8. Torque the high pressure fuel line on the fuel rail to 5 Nm (44 in. lbs) +75 degrees.
MOTOR - FUEL PUMP
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
An engine mounted, low-pressure mechanical fuel pump is not used with the 2.8L diesel engine.
An electric fuel pump is mounted to the fuel pump module. The pump supplies a low-pressure fuel supply to the
engine.
Fuel is drawn in through a filter at the bottom of the module and pushed through the electric motor gearset to
the pump outlet.
The electric fuel pump is not a separate, serviceable component. The entire fuel pump module must be replaced.
MODULE - FUEL PUMP
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 66: Locating 2.8L Diesel Fuel Pump Module

1. The 2.8L diesel fuel pump module (2) is located on the top of fuel tank.
Fig. 67: Identifying Drive Breaker Bar, Lockring Remover/Installer Tool 9340 & Lockring
2. Drain and remove fuel tank.

3. Note rotational position of module before attempting removal. An indexing arrow is located on top of
module for this purpose.
4. Position special Lockring Remover/Installer tool 9340 (3) into notches on outside edge of lockring (5).
5. Install 1/2 inch drive breaker bar (1) to special Lockring Remover/Installer tool 9340 (3).
6. Rotate breaker bar counter-clockwise to remove lockring.
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7. Remove lockring. The module will spring up slightly when lockring is removed.
8. Remove module from fuel tank. Be careful not to bend float arm while removing.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Whenever the fuel pump module is serviced, the rubber seal (gasket) must
be replaced.
Fig. 68: Identifying Drive Breaker, Lockring Remover/Installer 9340 & Lockring
1. Using a new seal (gasket), position fuel pump module into opening in fuel tank.
2. Position lockring (5) over top of fuel pump module.
3. Rotate module until embossed alignment arrow points to center alignment mark. This step must be
performed to prevent float from contacting side of fuel tank.
4. Install Lockring Remover/Installer 9340 (3) to lockring.
5. Install 1/2 inch drive breaker (1) into Lockring Remover/Installer 9340 (3).
6. Tighten lockring (clockwise) until all seven notches have engaged.
7. Install fuel tank.
PUMP-FUEL INJECTION
DESCRIPTION
FUEL INJECTION PUMP
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Fig. 69: Identifying Fuel Injection Pump & Fuel Quantity Solenoid
1 - FUEL INJECTION PUMP

2 - FUEL QUANTITY SOLENOID
A radial, 3 piston pump (1) mounted to the timing belt cover, is used to deliver fuel under high pressure to the
fuel rail. See WARNING.
The pump is driven by the timing belt. Pressure is generated independently of the injection process. The pump
is lubricated with diesel fuel and is not responsible for fuel injection timing. However, there is a mark on the
high pressure fuel pump sprocket that must be aligned with a mark on the timing belt cover whenever the high
pressure pump, sprocket, or timing belt have been removed.
OPERATION
FUEL INJECTION PUMP
High Pressure Pumping Plungers
The fuel quantity solenoid supples three high pressure pumping chambers. The pumping chambers have one
way inlet valves that allow fuel to flow into the chambers. The valves then close during compression of the fuel
and cause the high pressure fuel to overcome a ball and angled seat outlet valve.
All three pumping chambers are tied together in one circuit internal to the pump and provide high pressure fuel
up to 1600 bar (23,000 psi) through a steel line, to the fuel rail.
The pump is driven at 1:1 engine speed and is not responsible for injection timing. The pump is only
responsible for providing high pressure fuel while the ECM controls the injection timing.
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REMOVAL
FUEL INJECTION PUMP

WARNING: High-pressure lines deliver diesel fuel under extreme pressure from the
injection pump to the fuel injectors. Use extreme caution when inspecting
for high-pressure fuel leaks. Fuel under this amount of pressure can
penetrate skin causing personal injury or death. Inspect for high-pressure
fuel leaks with a sheet of cardboard. Wear safety goggles and adequate
protective clothing when servicing fuel system.

2. Drain engine coolant. Refer to COOLING article .
4. Disconnect and reposition engine coolant hose near rear of injection pump.
5. Remove timing belt.
Fig. 70: Identifying Injection Pump Sprocket Mounting Nut & Sprocket
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6. Remove injection pump sprocket mounting nut (2). Attach a typical 3-jaw gear/sprocket puller such as
special tool 1023 and remove sprocket (1) from pump.
Fig. 71: Identifying High-Pressure Fuel Sensor, Electrical Connector & Fuel Lines
7. Disconnect high-pressure fuel line (4) at rear of pump by removing banjo bolt.
8. Disconnect high-pressure fuel line (2) at rear of pump by removing fitting at end of line.
9. Disconnect electrical connector at high-pressure fuel sensor (1).
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10. Remove fuel injection pump mounting nuts (2).

11. Slide pump rearward from mounting studs.
INSTALLATION
FUEL INJECTION PUMP


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1. Slip pump (1) over mounting studs.

2. Be sure pump is fully seated before tightening mounting nuts. Tighten injection pump mounting nuts
(2) to 24 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 74: Identifying Injection Pump Sprocket Mounting Nut & Sprocket
3. Position sprocket (1) to pump shaft and install nut (2) finger tight.
Fig. 75: Identifying High-Pressure Fuel Sensor, Electrical Connector & Fuel Lines
4. Install banjo bolt for fuel line (4) at rear of injection pump. Tighten bolt to 28 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
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5. Install fuel line (2) and fitting to rear of injection pump. Tighten fitting to 28 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
6. Connect electrical connector to high-pressure fuel sensor (1).
Fig. 76: Fuel Injection Pump Timing Marks

7. Tighten injection pump sprocket nut (4) to 88 N.m (65 ft. lbs.) torque.
8. PUMP ALIGNMENT MARKS: Rotate pump gear (1) until marks (2) and (3) are aligned.
9. Install timing belt.
10. Connect engine coolant hose near rear of injection pump.
11. Fill engine cooling system. Refer to COOLING article.
12. Lower vehicle.
14. Start engine and check for fuel leaks.
PUMP-FUEL TRANSFER
DESCRIPTION
FUEL TRANSFER (LIFT) PUMP
The fuel transfer pump (fuel lift pump) is part of the fuel pump module. The fuel pump module is located in the
fuel tank. The 12-volt electric pump is operated and controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM).
REMOVAL
FUEL TRANSFER PUMP
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The fuel transfer pump (fuel lift pump) is a part of the fuel tank module. It is not serviced separately. Refer to
Fuel Tank Module Removal or Installation for procedures.
SENSOR-FUEL PRESSURE
DESCRIPTION
FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR
WARNING: High - pressure fuel line deliver diesel fuel under extreme pressure from
the injection pump to the fuel injectors. This may be as high as 1600 bar
(23,200 psi). Use extreme caution when inspecting for high - pressure fuel
personal injury or death. Inspect for high - pressure leaks with a sheet of
cardboard. Wear safety goggles and adequate protective clothing when

The fuel rail pressure sensor (1) screws into the fuel rail (2) at the top of the engine. The ECM uses this sensor
to monitor the fuel rail pressure.
OPERATION
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Review the high pressure fuel system warning. See WARNING.
The fuel flows to the fuel pressure sensor through an opening in the rail, the end of which is sealed off by the
sensor diaphragm. Pressurized fuel reaches the sensor's diaphragm through a blind hole. The sensor element
(semiconductor device) converts the pressure to an electric signal is mounted on this diaphragm. The signal
generated by the sensor is monitored by the ECM.
REMOVAL

2. Remove engine cover.
WARNING: High pressure fuel spray can cause severe cuts, and is extremely
flammable. Before opening any part of the high pressure fuel
system, wait for a minimum of 30 seconds after turning off the
engine to allow pressure to bleed down from the high pressure side
of the fuel system. Otherwise severe personal injury can result when
the high pressure fuel system is opened.
WARNING: No sparks, open flames or smoking. Risk of poisoning from inhaling

and swallowing fuel. Risk of injury to eyes and skin from contact
with fuel. Pour fuels only into suitable and appropriately marked
containers. Wear protective clothing.
NOTE: Do allow cleaning solvent or debris to enter the fuel pressure sensor
harness connector.
3. Clean the area around the fuel pressure sensor with Mopar® Throttle Body Cleaner P/N 04897156AA or
equivalent degreasing solvent and compressed air.
4. Disconnect fuel pressure sensor electrical connector.
WARNING: When working with parts on the high side of the fuel injection
system such as the fuel rail and high pressure injector lines, slowly
loosen the part to allow any residual pressure to bleed down from
the high pressure side of the system.
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NOTE: Do not touch the connector terminals of the fuel rail pressure sensor. The
internal electronic components of the sensor can be damaged.
5. Remove fuel pressure sensor (1) from fuel rail.

6. If the sensor is to be reused, remove the fuel rail pressure sensor sealing ring. Do not damage or gouge the
fuel rail pressure sensor threads. If any gouges or cuts are present in the fuel rail pressure sensor threads,
the sensor must be replaced. Otherwise, fuel leaks can occur.
NOTE: Do not allow dirt or debris to enter the fuel rail and fuel rail solenoid
threads after the fuel pressure solenoid has been removed from the fuel
rail.
7. Clean the thread and fuel pressure sensor sealing surface of the fuel rail.
8. Use a clean plug to close off the fuel rail pressure sensor opening if the fuel pressure solenoid will not be
immediately re-installed.
INSTALLATION
WARNING: Diesel fuel is under extreme pressure in the high pressure side of the fuel
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injection system between the fuel injectors and the high pressure fuel
pump. This may be as high as 1600 bar (23,200 psi.). Use extreme caution
when inspecting for leaks in the high pressure side of the fuel injection
system. Fuel under this amount of pressure can penetrate skin causing
personal injury or death. Inspect for high pressure fuel leaks with a sheet
of cardboard. Wear safety goggles and adequate protective clothing when
servicing the high pressure side of the fuel system.

1. If reusing an existing fuel pressure sensor, install a new fuel pressure sensor sealing ring.
2. Lubricate the fuel pressure sensor threads and sealing ring with clean diesel fuel.
3. Install fuel pressure sensor (1) in fuel rail (2). Position the fuel rail pressure sensor so the harness
connector is not stretched or under tension. Tighten sensor to 100 N.m (73 ft. lbs.).
4. Connect fuel pressure sensor electrical connector.
5. Install engine cover.
SOLENOID-FUEL PRESSURE
DESCRIPTION
FUEL PRESSURE SOLENOID

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The fuel pressure solenoid (3) is attached to the rear of the fuel rail (2). The tip of the fuel pressure solenoid (3)
uses a knife edge, for metal to metal sealing. The knife edge actually deforms the metal in the fuel rail in order
to seal the surfaces. The solenoid must be replaced when ever it is removed from the rail. The solenoid controls
and maintains constant rail pressure with a control current transmitted by the engine control module (ECM).
OPERATION
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Fig. 81: Fuel Pressure Solenoid Operation

1 - BALL SEAT
2 - SPRING FORCE
3 - MAGNETIC FORCE
4 - COIL
5 - FUEL PRESSURE SOLENOID
6 - HIGH PRESSURE SUPPLY
High pressure which is present in the fuel rail flows to the ball seat (1) of the pressure solenoid. The specified
pressure required by the system is built up in the rail by the fuel pressure solenoid building up a magnetic force
which corresponds to this specific pressure by means of a control current from the Electronic Control Module
(ECM). This magnetic force equals a certain outlet cross section at the ball seat of the valve. The rail pressure is
altered as a result of the quantity of fuel which flows off. The current fuel pressure is signaled by the fuel rail
pressure sensor to the engine control module (ECM). The controlled fuel flows back along the return fuel line,
into the tank.
In a de-energized state, the fuel pressure solenoid is closed as the spring force (2) presses the ball into the ball
seat. When driving, the fuel pressure solenoid is constantly open. When engine is started, the fuel pressure
solenoid is held closed by magnetic force. When driving, the pressure of the fluid counteracts the magnetic
force of the coil and the slight spring force.
REMOVAL
Review the high pressure fuel system warning before beginning repair. See WARNING.
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WARNING: High pressure fuel spray can cause severe cuts, and is extremely
flammable. Before opening any part of the high pressure fuel system, wait
for a minimum of 30 seconds after turning off the engine to allow
pressure to bleed down from the high pressure side of the fuel system.
Otherwise severe personal injury can result when the high pressure fuel
system is opened.
WARNING: No sparks, open flames or smoking. Risk of poisoning from inhaling and
swallowing fuel. Risk of injury to eyes and skin from contact with fuel.
Pour fuels only into suitable and appropriately marked containers. Wear
protective clothing.
NOTE: Do allow cleaning solvent or debris to enter the fuel pressure solenoid
harness connector.
2. Clean the area around the fuel pressure solenoid with Mopar® Throttle Body Cleaner P/N 04897156AA
or equivalent degreasing solvent and compressed air.
3. Disconnect the fuel pressure solenoid harness connector.
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WARNING: When working with parts on the high side of the fuel injection
system such as the fuel rail and high pressure injector lines, slowly
loosen the part to allow any residual pressure to bleed down from
the high pressure side of the system.
4. Remove fuel rail. See REMOVAL.

5. Clamp fuel rail (2) securely in vise with protective jaws.
CAUTION: Once removed, the solenoid must always be replaced. Do not re-use
a fuel pressure solenoid that has been installed in the fuel rail.
6. Counterhold the fuel rail and unscrew the fuel pressure solenoid (3).
NOTE: Do not allow dirt or debris to enter the fuel rail and fuel rail solenoid
threads after the fuel pressure solenoid has been removed from the fuel
rail.
7. Use a clean plug to close off the fuel rail pressure solenoid opening if the fuel pressure solenoid will not
be immediately re-installed.
INSTALLATION
Review the high pressure fuel system warning before beginning repair. See WARNING.
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WARNING: Before working on an open fuel system, eliminate any source of sparks or
open flames near the work area, and do not smoke. Wash diesel fuel off
skin as soon as possible to avoid the risk of poisoning from inhaling and
swallowing fuel. Do not allow diesel fuel to come in contact with eyes,
otherwise, severe injury can result from contact with fuel. Pour fuels only
into suitable and appropriately marked containers. Wear protective
clothing whenever possible to avoid injury.
CAUTION: There is a special tightening procedure for the fuel rail solenoid that must
be followed along with the proper use of a torque wrench. Therefore the
fuel rail must be removed before installing the fuel pressure solenoid.
CAUTION: Do not reuse an existing fuel pressure solenoid. A new fuel pressure
solenoid must be installed any time the existing solenoid has been
removed from the fuel rail.
1. Position the fuel rail (2) into a soft jawed vise.

2. Inspect the sealing surfaces of the fuel pressure solenoid opening in the fuel rail. If any cuts or gouges are
present in the fuel rail pressure solenoid opening, replace the fuel rail.
3. Lubricate the fuel pressure solenoid sealing rings with clean diesel fuel. Do not allow dirt or debris to
come in contact with the fuel rail solenoid or the threads in the fuel rail.
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4. Manually thread the fuel pressure solenoid (3) into the fuel rail until hand tight.
5. Position the fuel pressure solenoid electrical socket so the fuel pressure solenoid harness connector is not
under stress. Otherwise, the connector or harness can be damaged.
6. Counterhold the fuel rail, and tighten the fuel rail solenoid (3) as follows:
 Tighten the fuel pressure solenoid to 60 N.m (44 ft. lbs.)
 Loosen the fuel pressure solenoid 90 degrees.
 Retighten the fuel pressure solenoid to 85 N.m (62 ft. lbs.).
7. Install fuel rail. See INSTALLATION.

9. Start engine, allow to warm, turn engine off and inspect for leaks. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
SOLENOID - FUEL QUANTITY
DESCRIPTION
FUEL QUANTITY SOLENOID
Fig. 84: Identifying Fuel Supply To Fuel Rail, High Pressure Fuel Pump & Fuel Quantity Solenoid
1 - FUEL SUPPLY TO FUEL RAIL

2 - HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP
The fuel quantity solenoid is located in the back of the high pressure pump. The solenoid is pulse width
modulated by the ECM and meters the amount of fuel that flows into the high pressure elements inside of the
high pressure pump. The solenoid is also inactive during the first 30 seconds to allow maximum fuel pressure to
the fuel rail during start up. See Fig. 84.
OPERATION
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The fuel quantity solenoid is a pulse width modulated valve that controls the amount of fuel sent or delayed to
the high pressure pump elements inside of the high pressure pump. The ECM determines the fuel pressure set
point based on engine sensor inputs. If the actual fuel rail pressure is too low, the ECM commands the solenoid
to allow more fuel to flow to the high pressure pump. This minimizes the difference between the actual fuel rail
pressure reading and the set point. The ECM will also operate the solenoid, delaying fuel if the fuel rail pressure
becomes to high.
The fuel quantity solenoid is commanded open by the ECM to allow the high pressure pump to build maximum
pressure (1600 BAR, 23,200 PSI). See WARNING the solenoid also has fuel tank heat protection function that
meters the exact amount of fuel to prevent excess heated fuel from returning to the fuel tank
REMOVAL
Fig. 85: Fuel Quantity Solenoid, Air Control Valve & Supply Pump
1 - EGR AIR CONTROL VALVE

2 - GEAR SUPPLY PUMP
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable

2. Remove the charge air inlet hose.
3. Disconnect the fuel quantity solenoid wiring harness connector.
4. Remove the solenoid from the back of the high pressure pump. See Fig. 85.
NOTE: Inspect the fuel quantity solenoid and high pressure pump passage for
contamination or corrosion. If contamination or corrosion is present
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replace the high pressure pump.
5. Inspect solenoid and pump for corrosion.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 86: Fuel Quantity Solenoid, Air Control Valve & Supply Pump
1 - EGR AIR CONTROL VALVE

2 - GEAR SUPPLY PUMP
1. Review the high pressure fuel system warning. See WARNING.

2. Lubricate the fuel quantity solenoid and seal with clean diesel fuel.
3. Install the solenoid into the high pressure pump, hand tighten the fasteners. See Fig. 86.
4. Torque the solenoid fasteners to 10.8 N.m (96 in. lbs.).
5. Connect the wiring harness connector.
6. Install the charge air inlet hose.
7. Start engine, allow to warm, shut engine off and inspect for leaks.
FUEL INJECTION - GAS

PEDAL - ACCELERATOR
REMOVAL
ACCELERATOR PEDAL - WITHOUT ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR
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Fig. 87: Accelerator Pedal - Without Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor

The accelerator pedal and APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor) are serviced as a complete assembly
including the bracket.
1. Disconnect electrical connector (3) at APPS.

2. Remove two accelerator pedal mounting bracket nuts (2).
3. Remove accelerator pedal/APPS assembly (1) from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
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1. Position accelerator pedal/APPS assembly over two mounting studs.

2. Install two accelerator pedal mounting bracket nuts (2).
3. Connect electrical connector (3) at APPS.
4. Before starting engine, operate accelerator pedal to check for any binding.
SENSOR - ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
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including the bracket. Refer to Accelerator Pedal Removal and Installation procedures.
SENSOR-CRANKSHAFT POSITION
REMOVAL
CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR-3.7L
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Fig. 90: Identifying CKP Sensor, O-Ring & Mounting Bolt

1 - MOUNTING BOLT
2 - CKP SENSOR
3 - O-RING
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor (2) is mounted into the right rear side of the cylinder block. It is
positioned and bolted into a machined hole.
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Disconnect sensor electrical connector.
3. Remove sensor mounting bolt (1).
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4. Carefully twist sensor from cylinder block.

5. Check condition of sensor o-ring (3).
REMOVAL - 4.0L
Fig. 91: Identifying CKP/Oxygen Sensors - 4.0L

The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor (6) is mounted into the right side of the transmission bellhousing. It is
positioned and bolted into a machined hole.
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Disconnect sensor electrical connector.
4. Carefully twist sensor from transmission.
INSTALLATION
CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR-3.7L
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Fig. 92: Identifying CKP Sensor, O-Ring & Mounting Bolt

1 - MOUNTING BOLT
2 - CKP SENSOR
3 - O-RING
1. Clean out machined hole in engine block.

2. Apply a small amount of engine oil to sensor o-ring (3).
3. Install sensor (2) into engine block with a slight rocking and twisting action.
CAUTION: Before tightening sensor mounting bolt (1), be sure sensor is

completely flush to cylinder block. If sensor is not flush, damage to
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sensor mounting tang may result.
4. Install mounting bolt (1).

5. Connect electrical connector to sensor.
6. Lower vehicle.
INSTALLATION - 4.0L

1. Clean out machined hole in transmission bellhousing.

2. Install sensor (6) into transmission.

completely flush to transmission. If sensor is not flush, damage to
3. Install mounting bolt (5).

5. Lower vehicle.
INJECTOR-FUEL
DESCRIPTION
FUEL INJECTORS
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Fig. 94: Identifying Injector Body, Fuel Outlet Nozzle & Fuel Inlet Nozzle
1 - INJECTOR BODY
2 - FUEL OUTLET NOZZLE
3 - FUEL INLET NOZZLE
An individual fuel injector (1) is used for each individual cylinder. See Fig. 94.
OPERATION
FUEL INJECTORS
The top (fuel entry) end of the injector is attached into an opening on the fuel rail. See Fig. 94.
The fuel injectors are electrical solenoids. The injector contains a pintle that closes off an orifice at the nozzle
end. When electric current is supplied to the injector, the armature and needle move a short distance against a
spring, allowing fuel to flow out the orifice. Because the fuel is under high pressure, a fine spray is developed in
the shape of a pencil stream. The spraying action atomizes the fuel, adding it to the air entering the combustion
chamber.
The nozzle (outlet) ends of the injectors are positioned into openings in the intake manifold just above the
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intake valve ports of the cylinder head. The engine wiring harness connector for each fuel injector is equipped
with an attached numerical tag (INJ 1, INJ 2 etc.). This is used to identify each fuel injector.
The injectors are energized individually in a sequential order by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The
PCM will adjust injector pulse width by switching the ground path to each individual injector on and off.
Injector pulse width is the period of time that the injector is energized. The PCM will adjust injector pulse width
based on various inputs it receives.
Battery voltage is supplied to the injectors through the ASD relay.
The PCM determines injector pulse width based on various inputs.
FUEL INJECTORS - PCM OUTPUT
The nozzle ends of the injectors are positioned into openings in the intake manifold just above the intake valve
ports of the cylinder head. The engine wiring harness connector for each fuel injector is equipped with an
attached numerical tag (INJ 1, INJ 2 etc.). This is used to identify each fuel injector with its respective cylinder
number.
The injectors are energized individually in a sequential order by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The
PCM will adjust injector pulse width by switching the ground path to each individual injector on and off.
Injector pulse width is the period of time that the injector is energized. The PCM will adjust injector pulse width
based on various inputs it receives.
Battery voltage (12 volts +) is supplied to the injectors through the ASD relay. The ASD relay will shut-down
the 12 volt power source to the fuel injectors if the PCM senses the ignition is on, but the engine is not running.
This occurs after the engine has not been running for approximately 1.8 seconds.
The PCM determines injector on-time (pulse width) based on various inputs.
REMOVAL
FUEL INJECTORS
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Fig. 95: Identifying Pliers, Injector Clip, Fuel Injector & Fuel Rail
1 - PLIERS
2 - INJECTOR CLIP
3 - FUEL INJECTOR
4 - FUEL RAIL - TYPICAL
1. Remove fuel rail. See REMOVAL.

2. Disconnect clip(s) (2) that retain fuel injector(s) (3) to fuel rail (4). See Fig. 95.
INSTALLATION
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FUEL INJECTORS
Fig. 96: Identifying Pliers, Injector Clip, Fuel Injector & Fuel Rail
1 - PLIERS
2 - INJECTOR CLIP
3 - FUEL INJECTOR
4 - FUEL RAIL - TYPICAL
1. Install fuel injector(s) (3) into fuel rail assembly (4) and install retaining clip(s) (2).
2. If same injector(s) is being reinstalled, install new O-ring(s). Two different O-rings are being used. These
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can be easily identified by color. Install black O-ring at intake manifold end of injector. Install red/rust
colored O-ring at fuel rail end of injector.
3. Apply a small amount of clean engine oil to each injector O-ring. This will aid in installation.
4. Install fuel rail. See INSTALLATION.
5. Start engine and check for fuel leaks.
RELAY-FUEL PUMP
DESCRIPTION
FUEL PUMP RELAY
This vehicle is not equipped with a fuel pump relay. The fuel pump control is done through the TIPM. The
TIPM receives an input signal from the PCM. Once the TIPM receives the signal, it will output a 12 volt supply
to the fuel pump module turning the pump on.
SENSOR-INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 3.7L
Fig. 97: Identifying Intake Manifold Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor & Electrical Connector
The intake manifold air temperature (IAT) sensor (1) is installed into the rubber air intake tube near the throttle
body.
1. Disconnect electrical connector (2) from IAT sensor.

2. Clean dirt from IAT sensor base.
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3. Pull out on IAT sensor (1) while rotating for removal.

4. Check condition of sensor O-ring.
REMOVAL - 4.0L
Fig. 98: Identifying Electrical Connector & IAT Sensor

body.
1. Disconnect electrical connector (1) from IAT sensor.

2. Clean dirt from IAT sensor base.
3. Pull out on IAT sensor (2) while rotating for removal.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 3.7L
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Fig. 99: Identifying Intake Manifold Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor & Electrical Connector
body.
1. Clean mounting hole.

3. Push IAT sensor (1) into rubber intake tube while rotating for installation.
4. Connect electrical connector (2) to IAT sensor.
INSTALLATION - 4.0L
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Fig. 100: Identifying Electrical Connector & IAT Sensor

body.
1. Clean mounting hole.

3. Push IAT sensor (2) into rubber intake tube while rotating for installation.
4. Connect electrical connector (1) to IAT sensor.
SENSOR-MANIFOLD AIR PRESSURE
OPERATION
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR - PCM INPUT
The MAP sensor is used as an input to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). It contains a silicon based
sensing unit to provide data on the manifold vacuum that draws the air/fuel mixture into the combustion
chamber. The PCM requires this information to determine injector pulse width and spark advance. When
manifold absolute pressure (MAP) equals Barometric pressure, the pulse width will be at maximum.
A 5 volt reference is supplied from the PCM and returns a voltage signal to the PCM that reflects manifold
pressure. The zero pressure reading is 0.5V and full scale is 4.5V. For a pressure swing of 0-15 psi, the voltage
changes 4.0V. To operate the sensor, it is supplied a regulated 4.8 to 5.1 volts. Ground is provided through the
low-noise, sensor return circuit at the PCM.
The MAP sensor input is the number one contributor to fuel injector pulse width. The most important function
of the MAP sensor is to determine barometric pressure. The PCM needs to know if the vehicle is at sea level or
at a higher altitude, because the air density changes with altitude. It will also help to correct for varying
barometric pressure. Barometric pressure and altitude have a direct inverse correlation; as altitude goes up,
barometric goes down. At key-on, the PCM powers up and looks at MAP voltage, and based upon the voltage it
sees, it knows the current barometric pressure (relative to altitude). Once the engine starts, the PCM looks at the
voltage again, continuously every 12 milliseconds, and compares the current voltage to what it was at key-on.
The difference between current voltage and what it was at key-on, is manifold vacuum.
During key-on (engine not running) the sensor reads (updates) barometric pressure. A normal range can be
obtained by monitoring a known good sensor.
As the altitude increases, the air becomes thinner (less oxygen). If a vehicle is started and driven to a very
different altitude than where it was at key-on, the barometric pressure needs to be updated. Any time the PCM
sees Wide Open Throttle (WOT), and RPM, it will update barometric pressure in the MAP memory cell. With
periodic updates, the PCM can make its calculations more effectively.
The PCM uses the MAP sensor input to aid in calculating the following:
Manifold pressure
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Barometric pressure
Engine load
Injector pulse-width
Spark-advance programs
Shift-point strategies (certain automatic transmissions only)
Idle speed
Decel fuel shutoff
The MAP sensor signal is provided from a single piezoresistive element located in the center of a diaphragm.
The element and diaphragm are both made of silicone. As manifold pressure changes, the diaphragm moves
causing the element to deflect, which stresses the silicone. When silicone is exposed to stress, its resistance
changes. As manifold vacuum increases, the MAP sensor input voltage decreases proportionally. The sensor
also contains electronics that condition the signal and provide temperature compensation.
The PCM recognizes a decrease in manifold pressure by monitoring a decrease in voltage from the reading
stored in the barometric pressure memory cell. The MAP sensor is a linear sensor; meaning as pressure changes,
voltage changes proportionately. The range of voltage output from the sensor is usually between 4.6 volts at sea
level to as low as 0.3 volts at 26 in. of Hg. Barometric pressure is the pressure exerted by the atmosphere upon
an object. At sea level on a standard day, no storm, barometric pressure is approximately 29.92 in Hg. For every
100 feet of altitude, barometric pressure drops 0.10 in. Hg. If a storm goes through, it can change barometric
pressure from what should be present for that altitude. You should know what the average pressure and
corresponding barometric pressure is for your area.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 101: Identifying MAP Sensor - 4.0L

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The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (2) is mounted into the top/front of the upper half of the intake
manifold.
An O-ring is used to seal the sensor to the intake manifold.
1. Disconnect electrical connector (1) at sensor (2).

2. Clean area around MAP sensor.
3. Rotate sensor 1/4 turn counter-clockwise until tangs align.
4. Pull MAP sensor from intake manifold.
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR

The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (7) is mounted into the front of the intake manifold (1).
1. Disconnect electrical connector (2) at sensor.

2. Clean area around MAP sensor.
3. Remove one sensor mounting screw (8).
4. Remove MAP sensor from intake manifold by slipping it from locating pin (6).
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Fig. 103: Identifying MAP Sensor & O-ring

1 - MAP SENSOR
2 - O-RING
5. Check condition of sensor o-ring (2)
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (2) is mounted into the top/front of the upper half of the intake
manifold.
An O-ring is used to seal the sensor to the intake manifold.

2. Position MAP sensor into intake manifold. Note locating tangs.
3. Rotate sensor 1/4 turn clockwise.
4. Connect electrical connector (1) at sensor (2).
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR
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Fig. 105: Identifying MAP Sensor & O-ring

1 - MAP SENSOR
2 - O-RING
1. Clean MAP sensor mounting hole at intake manifold.

2. Check MAP sensor o-ring seal (2) for cuts or tears.
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3. Position MAP sensor into manifold by sliding sensor over locating pin (6).
4. Install mounting bolt (8). Tighten to 3 N.m (25 in. lbs.) torque.
5. Connect electrical connector (2).
SENSOR - OXYGEN
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 3.7L
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Fig. 107: Identifying Oxygen Sensors - 3.7L

CAUTION: Never apply any type of grease to the oxygen sensor electrical connector,
or attempt any soldering of the sensor wiring harness.
WARNING: The exhaust manifold, exhaust pipes and catalytic converter become very
hot during engine operation. Allow engine to cool before removing
oxygen sensor.

2. Disconnect wire connector from O2S sensor.
CAUTION: When disconnecting sensor electrical connector, do not pull directly

on wire going into sensor.
3. Remove O2S sensor (3) or (4) with an oxygen sensor removal and installation tool.
4. Clean threads in exhaust pipe using appropriate tap.
REMOVAL - 4.0L
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CAUTION: Never apply any type of grease to the oxygen sensor electrical connector,
or attempt any soldering of the sensor wiring harness.
WARNING: The exhaust manifold, exhaust pipes and catalytic converter become very
hot during engine operation. Allow engine to cool before removing
oxygen sensor.

2. Disconnect wire connector from O2S sensor.
CAUTION: When disconnecting sensor electrical connector, do not pull directly

on wire going into sensor.
3. Remove O2S sensor (3) or (4) with an oxygen sensor removal and installation tool.
4. Clean threads in exhaust pipe using appropriate tap.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 4.0L
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Threads of new oxygen sensors are factory coated with anti-seize compound to aid in removal.DO NOT add
any additional anti-seize compound to threads of a new oxygen sensor.
1. Install O2S sensor (3) or (4). Tighten to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.).
2. Connect O2S sensor wire connector.
3. Lower vehicle.
INSTALLATION - 3.7L
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Fig. 110: Identifying Oxygen Sensors - 3.7L

Threads of new oxygen sensors are factory coated with anti-seize compound to aid in removal. DO NOT add
any additional anti-seize compound to threads of a new oxygen sensor.
1. Install O2S sensor (3) or (4). Tighten to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.).
2. Connect O2S sensor wire connector.
3. Lower vehicle.
BODY-THROTTLE
REMOVAL
THROTTLE BODY - 3.7L
CAUTION: Using a diagnostic scan tool, record any previous DTC's (Diagnostic
Trouble Codes).
CAUTION: Never have the ignition key in the ON position when/if checking the
throttle body shaft for a binding condition. This may set DTC's.
A (factory adjusted) set screw is used to mechanically limit the position of the throttle body throttle plate.
Never attempt to adjust the engine idle speed using this screw. All idle speed functions are controlled by the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Fig. 111: Identifying Throttle Body Flange, Mounting Bolts & Electrical Connector - 3.7L
1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable at battery.
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2. Remove air intake tube at throttle body flange (1).

3. Disconnect throttle body electrical connector (3).
4. Disconnect necessary vacuum lines at throttle body.
5. Remove four throttle body mounting bolts (2).
6. Remove throttle body from intake manifold.
7. Check condition of old throttle body-to-intake manifold o-ring.
REMOVAL - 4.0L
CAUTION: Using a diagnostic scan tool, record any previous DTC's (Diagnostic
Trouble Codes).
CAUTION: Never have the ignition key in the ON position when/if checking the
throttle body shaft for a binding condition. This may set DTC's.
A (factory adjusted) set screw is used to mechanically limit the position of the throttle body throttle plate.
Never attempt to adjust the engine idle speed using this screw. All idle speed functions are controlled by the
1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable at battery.

2. Remove air intake tube at throttle body flange (3).
3. Disconnect throttle body electrical connector (2).
4. Disconnect necessary vacuum lines at throttle body.
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5. Remove four throttle body mounting bolts (4).

6. Remove throttle body from intake manifold.
7. Check condition of old throttle body-to-intake manifold O-ring.
INSTALLATION
THROTTLE BODY - 3.7L
Fig. 113: Identifying Throttle Body Flange, Mounting Bolts & Electrical Connector (3.7L)
1. Check condition of throttle body-to-intake manifold O-ring. Replace as necessary.

2. Clean mating surfaces of throttle body and intake manifold.
3. Install O-ring between throttle body and intake manifold.
4. Position throttle body (1) to intake manifold.
5. Install all throttle body mounting bolts (2) finger tight.
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Fig. 114: Throttle Body Mounting Bolts Tightening Sequence

CAUTION: The throttle body mounting bolts MUST be torqued to specifications.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN MOUNTING BOLTS. Over tightening can
cause damage to the throttle body, throttle plate, gaskets, bolts
and/or the intake manifold. Proper torque of the mounting bolts is
critical to normal operation.
6. Obtain a torque wrench. Tighten mounting bolts (as shown) in a mandatory torque criss-cross pattern
sequence to 7.5 N.m (65 in. lbs.).
Fig. 115: Identifying Throttle Body Flange, Mounting Bolts & Electrical Connector (3.7L)

8. Install necessary vacuum lines.
9. Install air cleaner duct at throttle body.
11. Using the diagnostic scan tool, erase all previous DTC's and perform the ETC Relearn function.
INSTALLATION - 4.0L
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1. Check condition of throttle body-to-intake manifold O-ring. Replace as necessary.

2. Clean mating surfaces of throttle body and intake manifold.
3. Install O-ring between throttle body and intake manifold.
4. Position throttle body to intake manifold.
5. Install all throttle body mounting bolts (4) finger tight.
Fig. 117: Throttle Body Mounting Bolts Tightening Sequence

CAUTION: The throttle body mounting bolts MUST be torqued to specifications.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN MOUNTING BOLTS. Over tightening can
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cause damage to the throttle body, throttle plate, gaskets, bolts

and/or the intake manifold. Proper torque of the mounting bolts is
critical to normal operation.
6. Obtain a torque wrench. Tighten mounting bolts (as shown) in a mandatory torque criss-cross pattern
sequence to 7.5 N.m (65 in. lbs.).

8. Install necessary vacuum lines.
9. Install air cleaner duct to throttle body flange (3).
11. Using the diagnostic scan tool, erase all previous DTC's and perform the ETC Relearn function.
MANIFOLD TUNE VALVE
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 4.0L
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Fig. 119: SRV (Short Runner Valve) & MTV (Manifold Tuning Valve)
The MTV (Manifold Tuning Valve) (2) is located on the left/front side of the intake manifold.
Fig. 120: Identifying Tang, Notch, Mounting Bolts, Electrical Connector & MTV Assembly
1. Disconnect electrical connector (4).

2. Remove mounting bolts (3).
3. Carefully pull the MTV assembly (5) straight forward from the intake manifold.
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Fig. 121: MTV Assembly

4. Be sure the O-ring (1) is still in place on the MTV shaft. If not, refer to the following step.
Fig. 122: MTV O-Ring

5. If O-ring is not on MTV shaft (from previous step), gently pry it (1) from intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 4.0L
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Fig. 123: MTV Assembly

1. Be sure the O-ring (1) is still in place on the MTV shaft. If not, refer to the following step.
Fig. 124: MTV O-Ring

2. If O-ring is not on MTV shaft (from previous step), gently pry it (1) from intake manifold.
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Fig. 125: Identifying Tang, Notch, Mounting Bolts, Electrical Connector & MTV Assembly
3. Carefully position the MTV assembly (5) straight rearward into the intake manifold. Align notch (2) on
MTV assembly to locating tang (1) on intake manifold.
4. Install mounting bolts (3).
SHORT RUNNER VALVE
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 4.0L
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Fig. 126: SRV (Short Runner Valve) & MTV (Manifold Tuning Valve)
1. The SRV (Short Runner Valve) (1) is located on the right/front side of the intake manifold.
Fig. 127: Identifying SRV, Mounting Bolt, Electrical Connector & Intake Manifold Notches
2. Disconnect electrical connector (3).

3. Remove SRV mounting bolts (1).
4. Carefully pull the SRV assembly (2) straight forward from the intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
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INSTALLATION - 4.0L
Fig. 128: Positioning SRV (Short Runner Valve) Into Intake Manifold
1. Position SRV (Short Runner Valve) into intake manifold. Align SRV shaft into notch (2).
Fig. 129: Identifying SRV, Mounting Bolt, Electrical Connector & Intake Manifold Notches
2. Rotate SRV assembly until aligned to intake manifold notches (4) and (5).
3. Install SRV mounting bolts (1).
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FUEL INJECTION - 2.8L DIESEL

OPERATION
SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
OPERATION
A leaking fuel injector can cause excessive pre-ignition knock, poor engine performance, excessive black
smoke in the exhaust, poor fuel economy and rough engine idle. If the fuel injector needle valve does not
operate properly, the engine may misfire and produce low power.
The Fuel Injection System is controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM). If the ECM senses a fault in a
monitored fuel system circuit, the ECM will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), which can retrieved with a
Scan Tool. The On-Board Diagnostic functions of the ECM must be used to test the system when diagnosing
mechanical or electrical problems with the Fuel Injection System. In addition to diagnosing electrical faults, the
Scan Tool has the following functions to test the mechanical operation of the injectors:
Compression Test
Fuel Correction Test
Balance Test
Kill Test
For Fuel System DTC information see refer to the appropriate Diagnostic Tests in DIAGNOSTIC CODE
INDEX .
SENSOR-ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION
REMOVAL
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1. Disconnect electrical connector (3) at APPS.

2. Remove two accelerator pedal mounting bracket nuts (2).
3. Remove accelerator pedal/APPS assembly (1) from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
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1. Position accelerator pedal/APPS assembly over two mounting studs.

2. Install two accelerator pedal mounting bracket nuts (2).
3. Connect electrical connector (3) at APPS.
4. Before starting engine, operate accelerator pedal to check for any binding.
INJECTOR-FUEL
DESCRIPTION
FUEL INJECTOR
To control the injection valves, the new Common-Rail injectors use a rapid-action actuator made of piezo
crystals, which opens and closes the injection valve. The piezo crystals expand when electrical current is
applied to them, and contract when electrical current is turned off. The piezo actuator can switch up to five
times faster than a standard solenoid, because the movement of the piezo crystals does not rely on mechanical
components to transmit motion to the injection valve. This doubles the piezo injector's switching speed, and
enables fuel to be delivered with greater precision, which leads to lower emissions and better engine
performance.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
INJECTOR CLASSIFICATION
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Fig. 132: Identifying Fuel Injector & ID Number

Each fuel injector has a alphanumeric correction code number. This correction code is printed on the upper part
of the fuel injector (3) and is used to identify injector calibration. When replacing any fuel injectors, this code
must be entered into the vehicles Engine Control Module (ECM) using a diagnostic scan tool. In addition, if a
new ECM is installed, use a diagnostic scan tool to program all of the injector codes from the original fuel
injectors into the new ECM.
The classification of injectors describes the fuel flow quantity characteristic of the injector. This will make it
possible in the future to match the engine software to the tolerances of the injector within a more narrowly
graduated range. Classification can be clearly recognized, and assigned only by means of a scan tool.
These general conditions equally apply if, as a result of replacing an engine, carrying out repairs to the cylinder
head etc., the cylinder selective assignment of the injectors or the engine control module assignment may have
changed. If proper attention is not paid to the classification on these vehicles, driveability and smoking concerns
could result.
If an injector is replaced, it is then necessary to assign the classification code to the corresponding cylinder in
the ECM (Engine Control Module) with the appropriate scan tool.
INJECTOR CLASSIFICATION PROCEDURE
1. Turn ignition switch "ON".

2. Using the diagnostic scan tool, select ENGINE then MISCELLANEOUS.
3. Select LEARN INJECTORS.
4. Using the up and down arrows, scroll to the appropriate injector.
5. Using the right and left arrows, set injector to proper classification code.
6. Once injectors are classified, cycle ignition key to complete.
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REMOVAL
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Due to the complexity of the fuel injection system used on this engine,
refer to the Diesel Engine Diagnostics, and service any fuel system DTCs
prior to replacing any fuel injectors. If no DTCs are present, refer to the
Diesel Engine Diagnostic Test for Lack of Engine Power, and perform all
steps as directed prior to replacing any fuel injectors.


3. Remove the high-pressure fuel lines from fuel rail to fuel injectors. Refer to REMOVAL .
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4. Locate common fuel return line (1).
Fig. 134: Lifting Lock Buttons

5. Disconnect electrical connector at top of injector(s).
NOTE: The injector common fuel return line is connected to the low pressure fuel
circuit (5 bar/72 psi).
6. A lock button (1) is used to secure the common fuel return line to each fuel injector. Use your fingers to
lift all four lock buttons (1) up. After unlocking all four buttons, lift fuel return line assembly up for
removal.
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Fig. 135: Identifying Injector, Mounting Clamp, Mounting Bolt & Washer
7. Remove injector mounting bolt (2) and washer (3).

8. Remove injector mounting clamp (1).
9. Using compressed air, thoroughly clean surface area in and around injector bore to prevent foreign
material from falling into the injector bore after injector removal.
10. Using your hand, pull fuel injector straight up from cylinder head for removal.
Fig. 136: Installing Special Fuel Injector Removal Tool #9552 To Top Of Fuel Injector
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11. If injector can't be removed by hand, install special fuel injector removal tool #9552 (2) to top of fuel
injector.
Fig. 137: Installing Special Slide Hammer Tool #8941 Onto Special Tool #9552, Tightening Lock
Nut & Removing Injector From Cylinder Head
12. Install special slide hammer tool #8941 (1) onto special tool #9552 (4). Tighten lock nut (2). Remove
injector from cylinder head.
NOTE: DO NOT use a wire brush to clean the fuel injector or nozzle. Possible
restriction of the injector needle may result.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Due to the complexity of the fuel injection system used on this engine,
refer to the Diesel Engine Diagnostics, and service any fuel system DTCs
prior to replacing any fuel injectors. If no DTCs are present, refer to the
Diesel Engine Diagnostic Test for Lack of Engine Power, and perform all
steps as directed prior to replacing any fuel injectors.

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Fig. 138: Identifying Injector Nozzle & Copper Washer/Seal

NOTE: DO NOT use a brush to clean around the injector nozzle (2). DO NOT lubricate
area around injector nozzle. The injector may become restricted with debris.
NOTE: Be sure a new copper washer/seal (3) is installed on end of injector and the old
seal is removed, before installing in cylinder head.
1. Install fuel injector into cylinder head with new seal.
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Fig. 139: Identifying Injector, Mounting Clamp, Mounting Bolt & Washer
2. Install fuel injector retainer clamp (1), washer (3) and bolt (2). Tighten clamp bolt (2) to 33 N.m (24 ft.
lbs.) torque.
3. Connect electrical connector to fuel injector.
4. Install fuel injector high-pressure lines. Refer to Fuel Line INSTALLATION.
Fig. 140: Lifting Lock Buttons

5. Position female fittings on fuel return line to male fittings at each fuel injector. Be sure lock buttons (1)
are in up position before positioning.
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Fig. 141: Pushing Each Lock Button Down To Secure Fuel Return Line To Each Fuel Injector
6. After positioning, push each lock button (1) down to secure fuel return line to each fuel injector.
7. Connect each fuel injector electrical connector.
9. Perform the injector classification procedure with a diagnostic scan tool.
10. Start the engine and allow to warm. Turn off the ignition switch and inspect for fuel leaks.
11. Install engine dress-up cover.
SENSOR-CRANKSHAFT POSITION
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 142: Identifying Crankshaft Hub, CKP Electrical Connector, CKP Mounting Bolt & CKP Sensor
The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) (4) is located between the transmission and the rear of the engine block.
It is bolted to the engine block below the crankshaft hub (1).

2. Remove access cover.
3. Disconnect CKP electrical connector (2).
4. Remove CKP mounting bolt (3).
5. Remove CKP sensor (4).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 143: Identifying Crankshaft Hub, CKP Electrical Connector, CKP Mounting Bolt & CKP Sensor
The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) (4) is located between the transmission and the rear of the engine block.
It is bolted to the engine block below the crankshaft hub (1).
1. Position CKP sensor (4) into mounting hole.
CAUTION: Before tightening sensor mounting bolt, be sure sensor is completely

flush to cylinder block. If sensor is not flush, damage to sensor
mounting tang may result.
2. Install CKP mounting bolt (3). Tighten bolt to 11 N.m (8 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Connect CKP electrical connector (2).
4. Position CKP access cover. Install bolts and tighten to 15 N.m (11 ft. lbs.) torque.
5. Lower vehicle.
SENSOR-INTAKE AIR PRESSURE
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 144: Removing/Installing Intake Air Pressure & Mass Air Flow Sensor
The Inlet Pressure Sensor (3) is located on the air cleaner cover (1).
1. Disconnect electrical connector at sensor.

2. Remove mounting screws.
3. Remove sensor from air cleaner cover.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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2. Position Inlet Pressure Sensor (3) into top of air cleaner cover (1) with a slight twisting action.
3. Install mounting screws.
4. Install Inlet Pressure Sensor electrical connector.
SENSOR-MASS AIR FLOW
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
The Mass Airflow Sensor (2) is located on the air cleaner cover (1).
1. Disconnect electrical connector at sensor.

2. Remove mounting screws.
3. Remove sensor from air cleaner cover.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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2. Position MAF sensor (2) into top of air cleaner cover (1) with a slight twisting action.
3. Install mounting screws.
4. Install MAF electrical connector.
SENSOR-TEMPERATURE/PRESSURE-MAP
OPERATION
INTAKE MANIFOLD AIR TEMPERATURE (IAT) SENSOR - ECM INPUT
The combination, dual function Intake Manifold Air Temperature Sensor/MAP Sensor is installed into the top
of the intake manifold with the sensor element extending into the air stream.
The IAT portion of the sensor provides an input voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM) indicating intake
manifold air temperature. The MAP portion of the sensor provides an input voltage to the ECM indicating
turbocharger boost pressure.
REMOVAL
INTAKE MANIFOLD AIR TEMPERATURE (IAT) SENSOR
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Fig. 148: Identifying Intake Manifold Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor

The combination, dual function Intake Manifold Air Temperature Sensor/MAP (IAT/MAP) sensor (1) is
installed into the top of the intake manifold near the fuel rail.
1. Clean area around sensor.

2. Disconnect electrical connector from IAT/MAP sensor.
3. Remove mounting screw.
4. Remove sensor from intake manifold by twisting.
INSTALLATION
INTAKE MANIFOLD AIR TEMPERATURE (IAT) SENSOR
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Fig. 149: Identifying Intake Manifold Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor


2. Clean sensor mounting area at intake manifold.
3. Lubricate sensor O-ring and sensor mounting hole in intake manifold cover with clean engine or diesel
oil.
4. Position sensor (1) into intake manifold.
5. Install and tighten sensor mounting screw to 1 N.m (9 in. lbs.) torque.
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2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Heated Mirrors - Service Information - Nitro
Heated Mirrors - Service Information - Nitro
HEATED MIRRORS - SERVICE INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
HEATED MIRROR SYSTEM
Fig. 1: EBL Switch

When equipped, the heated mirror system operates in concert with the rear window defogger (EBL) system. The
EBL system is controlled by a momentary push-button switch (1) integral to the blower motor control located
on the A/C-heater control (2) in the instrument panel. When the rear window defogger switch is pressed to the
On position with the ignition switch in RUN, the switch sends a request signal over the CAN-IHS bus to the
totally integrated power module (TIPM) to energize the EBL relay. When energized, the EBL relay provides
battery current to the rear window defogger grid lines and to the heated side view mirrors. The heated side view
mirrors help clear the mirror surfaces of fog or frost.
An amber indicator (3) in the rear window defogger switch will illuminate to indicate when the heated mirror
system is turned on.
NOTE: The heated mirror system turns off automatically after 10 minutes of initial
operation. Each following activation cycle of the heated mirror system will last 5
minutes.
The heated mirror system will be automatically turned off after an initial programmed time interval of about 10
minutes as long as the ignition switch is in RUN. After the initial time interval has expired, if the rear window
defogger switch is pressed to the on position again during the same ignition cycle, the heated mirror system will
automatically turn off after about 5 minutes. The heated mirror system will also turn off if the ignition switch is
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2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Heated Mirrors - Service Information - Nitro
turned to any position other than RUN or by manually pressing the rear window defogger switch a second time.
Circuit protection for the heated mirror system is provided by fuse 54 located in the TIPM.
OPERATION
HEATED MIRRORS
When equipped, the heated mirror system is activated when the rear window defogger (EBL) system is turned
on. Refer to OPERATION . When the heated mirror system is activated, an electric heater grid located behind
the glass of each of the outside rear view mirror becomes energized and produces heat to help clear the mirror
of ice, snow, or fog.
If the outside mirror heating grids are both inoperative, refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING . If only one of
the outside mirror heating grid is inoperative, refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .
The heating grid behind each outside mirror glass cannot be repaired and the mirror glass must be replaced if
the heating grid is found inoperative or damaged. Refer to REMOVAL .
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2007 HVAC Heating & Air Conditioning - Electrical Diagnostics - Nitro
2007 HVAC
Heating & Air Conditioning - Electrical Diagnostics - Nitro

DTC Description
B1006 BI-LEVEL SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
B1000 A/C SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
B1003 A/C PANEL MODE SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
B1009 RECIRCULATION SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
B100C FLOOR MODE SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT PER
B100F MIX SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT PER
B1012 DEFROST SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
B1015 REAR DEFROST SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
B1031 EVAPORATOR FIN TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW
B1032 EVAPORATOR FIN TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH
B1034 INFRARED TEMPERATURE SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT LOW
B1034 INFRARED TEMPERATURE SENSOR THERMISTOR CIRCUIT LOW
B1035 INFRARED TEMPERATURE SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
B1040 PANEL MODE DOOR 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
B1043 PANEL MODE DOOR 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
B1044 PANEL MODE DOOR 1 TRAVEL RANGE TOO SMALL
B1045 PANEL MODE DOOR 1 TRAVEL RANGE TOO LARGE
B1058 RECIRCULATION DOOR CONTROL CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
B105B RECIRCULATION DOOR CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN (TIPM)
B105B RECIRCULATION DOOR CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
B105C RECIRCULATION DOOR TRAVEL RANGE TOO SMALL
B105D RECIRCULATION DOOR TRAVEL RANGE TOO LARGE
B10A2 LEFT BLEND DOOR CONTROL CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
B10A5 LEFT BLEND DOOR CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
B10B1 INFRARED SENSOR THERMISTOR CIRCUIT HIGH
B10B4 CABIN HEATER 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW (TIPM)
B10B8 CABIN HEATER 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW (TIPM)
B10B9 CABIN HEATER 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH (TIPM)
B10EA BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
B10EC BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT (TIPM)
B1138 CABIN HEATER 3 CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW (TIPM)
B1139 CABIN HEATER 3 CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH (TIPM)
B1610 AMBIENT LIGHT SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT LOW
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12:55:42PM
PM Page 1 © 2005 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC.
B1610 AMBIENT LIGHT SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE

B1611 AMBIENT LIGHT SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
B210A SYSTEM VOLTAGE LOW
B210B SYSTEM VOLTAGE HIGH
B2214 (HVAC) CLIMATE CONTROL INTERNAL
B222A VEHICLE LINE MISMATCH
U0010 CAN INTERIOR BUS
U0141 LOST COMM W/INTEGRATED POWER MODULE/FRONT CONTROL
MODULE/TIPM
(ORC)
U0155 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH CLUSTER/CCN
U0159 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH PARKING ASSIST CONTROL MODULE
U0167 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH INTRUSION TRANSCEIVER CONTROL
MODULE
U0168 LOST COM WITH VEHICLE SECURITY CONTROL MODULE
(SKREEM/WCM)
U0169 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH SUNROOF CONTROL MODULE
U0181 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH HEADLAMP LEVELING TRANSLATOR
U0187 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH DVD PLAYER
U0196 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH VEHICLE ENTERTAINMENT CONTROL
MODULE
U0197 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH HANDS FREE PHONE MODULE
U0200 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH PASSENGER DOOR MODULE
U0201 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH LEFT REAR DOOR MODULE
U0202 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH RIGHT REAR DOOR MODULE
U0203 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH DOOR MODULE FRONT LEFT
U0203 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH DOOR MODULE FRONT RIGHT
U0209 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH MEMORY SEAT CONTROL MODULE
HVAC - ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS

HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
CAUTION: Do not exchange A/C Heater Controls from vehicle to vehicle. Software
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versions differ between models and model years. Installing an A/C Heater
Control with software that is incompatible for a given vehicle can result in
either improper or failed HVAC system operation.
NOTE: Always inspect the IOD fuse prior to diagnosing any heating-A/C system
concerns. Make sure the fuse is functional and fully seated into the terminals of
the totally integrated power module (TIPM) located in the engine compartment.
The A/C-heater control communicates on the controller area network (CAN) IHS bus and is fully addressable
with a scan tool.
The A/C-heater control's primary means of fault detection is through active and stored diagnostic trouble codes
(DTCs). Active DTCs are those which currently exist in the system. The condition causing the fault must be
repaired in order to clear this type of DTC. Stored DTCs are those which occurred in the system since the A/C-
heater control received the last clear diagnostic info message. All DTCs must be read with a scan tool .
The A/C-heater control's secondary means of fault detection is through system tests. These tests include the
HVAC System Test, the A/C Cooldown Test, the Actuator Calibration Function, and for MTC Systems, the
Actuator DTC Detection Test. Refer to SYSTEM TESTS for a detailed description of each test.
SYSTEM TESTS
HVAC System Test
The HVAC System Test , provides a starting point in the diagnostic process by identifying the appropriate
system test to perform when diagnosing a given condition or DTC. It also provides a means for testing the entire
HVAC system by utilizing the A/C-heater control's On-Board System Tests. The On-Board System Tests can
also assist in diagnosing stored DTCs.
A/C Cooldown Test
The A/C Cooldown Test:
Is actuated with a scan tool.

Tests A/C system performance based on evaporator temperature sensor input.
Will fail if evaporator starting temperature is below 18°C (65°F) when initiating the test.
Will pass if the evaporator temperature drops 11°C (20°F).
Indicates test outcome by displaying one or more test status messages on the scan tool. These messages
will clear after paging back out of this test function. Therefore, is it important to note all of the messages
before doing so.
Will cause the A/C status indicator to flash while the test is running.
Actuator Calibration Function
The Actuator Calibration function:
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Homes and repositions door actuators.
Monitors for door span faults. Door span faults (XXX Door Travel Range Too Large or XXX Door
Travel Range Too Small) will only display after calibration.
Will cause the electric backlight (EBL) status indicator to flash while the test is running.
Actuator DTC Detection Test
The Actuator DTC Detection Test:

Supplements the continuous diagnostics on the actuator drive system.
Monitors for shorted actuator circuits allowing service to easily diagnose and troubleshoot up to three
simultaneous shorts. Shorted actuator circuit faults (XXX Control Circuit High or XXX Control Circuit
Low) will only display after running the Actuator DTC Detection Test.
After repairing each DTC, cycle the ignition switch, and then rerun the Actuator DTC Detection test to ensure
that no new DTCs exist. If multiple DTCs are present, beginning with the common circuits, diagnose and repair
all short high faults and then short low faults. When the test returns passed, proceed with troubleshooting by
clearing faults and running the Actuator Calibration function as a final check of proper system operation.
B1006-BI-LEVEL SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
Theory of Operation
The Bi-Level mode switch input changes when the switch is pushed down. An active DTC indicates that the
switch is stuck in a pushed position. A stored DTC indicates that the switch was stuck in a pushed position for
more than two minutes, but has since returned to its normal state.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Bi-Level mode switch is stuck in a pushed position for more than two minutes. This DTC has a
maturing time of two minutes and a de-maturing time of two seconds. If the DTC's status changes from
active to stored it will stay in memory for 100 ignition cycles.
Possible Causes
OBJECT HOLDING SWITCH IN A PUSHED POSITION
A/C HEATER CONTROL
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Diagnostic Test
1) VERIFY THE DTC IS STILL ACTIVE
Inspect the A/C Heater Control for an object holding the switch in a pushed position. If present, remove
the object.
With the scan tool, erase HVAC DTCs.
Turn the ignition off, wait 10 seconds, and then turn the ignition on. Wait 2 minutes before proceeding.
With the scan tool, read HVAC DTCs.
Does the scan tool display this DTC?
Yes
Replace the A/C Heater Control in accordance with the service information.
No
B1000-A/C SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
The switch input changes when the switch is pushed down. A stored DTC indicates that the A/C request switch
was stuck in a pushed position for more than 10 minutes, but has since returned to its normal state. An active
DTC indicates that the A/C request switch is stuck in a pushed position. When active, this DTC will prevent
proper A/C request switch and status indicator function.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C request switch is detected in a pushed position for more than 10 minutes.
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Possible Causes
OBJECT HOLDING A/C MODE SWITCH IN A PUSHED POSITION
SUBSTANCE CAUSING A/C MODE SWITCH TO GET STUCK IN A PUSHED POSITION
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FOR NORMAL A/C REQUEST SWITCH & STATUS INDICATOR FUNCTION
Set the Blower control to any position except Off.
Set the Mode control to any position except Auto.
Press the A/C request switch on and off several times while observing the A/C status indicator.
Does the A/C status indicator turn on and off?
Yes
Go to 4).
No
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Go to 3).
3) INSPECT FOR OBJECT OR SUBSTANCE CAUSING THE A/C REQUEST SWITCH TO
STAY OR STICK IN A PUSHED POSITION
Inspect the A/C Heater Control for anything that would cause the A/C request switch to stay or stick in a
pushed position.
Is anything present that would cause the A/C request switch to stay or stick in a pushed position?
Yes
No
Go to 4).
4) INSPECT THE A/C HEATER CONTROL FOR DAMAGE
Inspect the A/C Heater Control for damage.
Is the A/C Heater Control damaged?
Yes
No
B1003-A/C PANEL MODE SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
The switch input changes when the switch is pushed down. A stored DTC indicates that the panel mode switch
DTC indicates that the panel mode switch is stuck in a pushed position. An active DTC will prevent proper A/C
mode switch and status indicator function.
When Monitored:
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Set Condition:
If the panel mode switch is detected in a pushed position for more than 10 minutes.
Possible Causes
OBJECT HOLDING PANEL MODE SWITCH IN A PUSHED POSITION
SUBSTANCE CAUSING PANEL MODE SWITCH TO GET STUCK IN A PUSHED POSITION
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FOR NORMAL PANEL MODE SWITCH & STATUS INDICATOR FUNCTION
Press the Panel mode switch on and off several times while observing the Panel mode status indicator.
Does the Panel mode status indicator turn on and off?
Yes
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Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
3) INSPECT FOR OBJECT OR SUBSTANCE CAUSING THE PANEL MODE SWITCH TO
Inspect the A/C Heater Control for anything that would cause the Panel mode switch to stay or stick in a
pushed position.
Is anything present that would cause the Panel mode switch to stay or stick in a pushed position?
Yes
No
Go to 4).
Yes
No
B1009-RECIRCULATION SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
The switch input changes when the switch is pushed down. A stored DTC indicates that the recirculation switch
DTC indicates that the recirculation switch is stuck in a pushed position.
When Monitored:
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Set Condition:
If the recirculation switch is detected in a pushed position for more than 10 minutes.
Possible Causes
OBJECT HOLDING RECIRCULATION SWITCH IN A PUSHED POSITION
SUBSTANCE CAUSING RECIRCULATION SWITCH TO GET STUCK IN A PUSHED POSITION
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FOR NORMAL RECIRCULATION SWITCH & STATUS INDICATOR FUNCTION
Press the Recirculation switch on and off several times while observing the Recirculation status indicator.
Does the Recirculation status indicator turn on and off?
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Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
3) INSPECT FOR OBJECT OR SUBSTANCE CAUSING THE RECIRCULATION SWITCH TO
Inspect the A/C Heater Control for anything that would cause the Recirculation switch to stay or stick in a
pushed position.
Is anything present that would cause the Recirculation switch to stay or stick in a pushed position?
Yes
No
Go to 4).
Yes
No
B100C-FLOOR MODE SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT PER
The Floor mode switch input changes when the switch is pushed down. An active DTC indicates that the switch
is stuck in a pushed position. A stored DTC indicates that the switch was stuck in a pushed position for more
than two minutes, but has since returned to its normal state.
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When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Floor mode switch is stuck in a pushed position for more than two minutes. This DTC has a
maturing time of two minutes and a de-maturing time of two seconds. If the DTC's status changes from
active to stored it will stay in memory for 100 ignition cycles.
Possible Causes
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
the object.
Yes
No
B100F-MIX SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT PER
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The mix switch input changes when the switch is pushed down. An active DTC indicates that the switch is stuck
in a pushed position. A stored DTC indicates that the switch was stuck in a pushed position for more than two
minutes, but has since returned to its normal state.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the mix switch is stuck in a pushed position for more than two minutes. This DTC has a maturing time
of two minutes and a de-maturing time of two seconds. If the DTC's status changes from active to stored
it will stay in memory for 100 ignition cycles.
Possible Causes
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
the object.
Yes
No
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B1012-DEFROST SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
The switch input changes when the switch is pushed down. A stored DTC indicates that the defrost switch was
stuck in a pushed position for more than 10 minutes, but has since returned to its normal state. An active DTC
indicates that the defrost switch is stuck in a pushed position.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the defrost switch is detected in a pushed position for more than 10 minutes.
Possible Causes
OBJECT HOLDING DEFROST SWITCH IN A PUSHED POSITION
SUBSTANCE CAUSING DEFROST SWITCH TO GET STUCK IN A PUSHED POSITION
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No
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2) CHECK FOR NORMAL DEFROST SWITCH & STATUS INDICATOR FUNCTION
Press the Defrost switch on and off several times while observing the Defrost status indicator.
Does the Defrost status indicator turn on and off?
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
3) INSPECT FOR OBJECT OR SUBSTANCE CAUSING THE DEFROST SWITCH TO STAY
OR STICK IN A PUSHED POSITION
Inspect the A/C Heater Control for anything that would cause the Defrost switch to stay or stick in a
pushed position.
Is anything present that would cause the Defrost switch to stay or stick in a pushed position?
Yes
No
Go to 4).
Yes
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No
B1015-REAR DEFROST SWITCH REQUEST INPUT CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
The switch input changes when the switch is pushed down. A stored DTC indicates that the rear defrost switch
DTC indicates that the rear defrost switch is stuck in a pushed position.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the rear defrost switch is detected in a pushed position for more than 10 minutes.
Possible Causes
OBJECT HOLDING REAR DEFROST SWITCH IN A PUSHED POSITION
SUBSTANCE CAUSING REAR DEFROST SWITCH TO GET STUCK IN A PUSHED POSITION
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
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No
2) CHECK FOR NORMAL REAR DEFROST SWITCH & STATUS INDICATOR FUNCTION
Press the Rear Defrost switch on and off several times while observing the Rear Defrost status indicator.
Does the Rear Defrost status indicator turn on and off?
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 3).
3) INSPECT FOR OBJECT OR SUBSTANCE CAUSING THE REAR DEFROST SWITCH TO
Inspect the A/C Heater Control for anything that would cause the Rear Defrost switch to stay or stick in a
pushed position.
Is anything present that would cause the Rear Defrost switch to stay or stick in a pushed position?
Yes
No
Go to 4).
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Yes
No
B1031-EVAPORATOR FIN TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW
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Fig. 1: Evaporator Fin Temperature Sensor Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
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Set Condition:
If the Evaporator Temperature Sensor input is out of range toward the low voltage threshold.
Possible Causes
(C21) EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
1) ACTIVE DTC(S) PRESENT
Using the A/C Heater Control, turn the heater on.
With the scan tool, check for DTCs.
Does the scan tool display this DTC as active?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FOR DTC WITH THE EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR HARNESS
CONNECTOR DISCONNECTED
Disconnect the Evaporator Temperature Sensor Harness Connector.
Turn the ignition off, wait 10 seconds, and turn the ignition on.
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Yes
Go to 3).
No
Replace the Evaporator Temperature Sensor in accordance with the service information.
3) CHECK (C21) EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR A
SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 2: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (C21) Evaporator Temperature Sensor Signal
Circuit In A/C Heater Control C1 Harness Connector
Disconnect the A/C Heater Control C1 harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (C21) Evaporator Temperature Sensor Signal circuit in
the A/C Heater Control C1 harness connector.
Yes
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No
Repair the (C21) Evaporator Temperature Sensor Signal circuit for a short to ground.
B1032-EVAPORATOR FIN TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH
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Fig. 3: Evaporator Fin Temperature Sensor Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
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Set Condition:
If the Evaporator Temperature Sensor input is out of range toward the high voltage threshold.
Possible Causes
(C21) EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(C21) EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
(C121) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Using the A/C Heater Control, turn the heater on.
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK (C21) EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR A
SHORT TO VOLTAGE
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Fig. 4: Measuring Voltage Of (C21) Evaporator Temperature Sensor Signal Circuit In A/C Heater
Control C1 Harness Connector
Measure the voltage of the (C21) Evaporator Temperature Sensor Signal circuit in the A/C Heater
Control C1 harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (C21) Evaporator Temperature Sensor Signal circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (C21) EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT, (C121)
SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT, & EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
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Fig. 5: Measuring Resistance Between (C21) Evaporator Temperature Sensor Signal Circuit And
(C121) Sensor Ground Circuit In A/C Heater Control C1 Harness Connector
Measure the resistance between the (C21) Evaporator Temperature Sensor Signal circuit and the (C121)
Sensor Ground circuit in the A/C Heater Control C1 harness connector. The approximate circuit
resistance should be as follows:
 1468 ohms @ 40°C (104°F)

 1800 ohms @ 35°C (95°F)
 2221 ohms @ 30°C (86°F)
 2757 ohms @ 25°C (77°F)
 3443 ohms @ 20°C (68°F)
 4330 ohms @ 15°C (59°F)
 5485 ohms @ 10°C (50°F)
 6998 ohms @ 5°C (41°F)
 7354 ohms @ 4°C (39°F)
 7731 ohms @ 3°C (37°F)
 8130 ohms @ 2°C (36°F)
 8553 ohms @ 1°C (34°F)
 9000 ohms @ 0°C (32°F)
Is the resistance within the specifications?
Yes
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No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK (C21) EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR AN
OPEN
Fig. 6: Measuring Resistance Of (C21) Evaporator Temperature Sensor Signal Circuit Between
A/C Heater Control C1 Harness Connector And Evaporator Temperature Sensor Harness
Connector
Disconnect the Evaporator Temperature Sensor harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (C21) Evaporator Temperature Sensor Signal circuit between the A/C
Heater Control C1 harness connector and the Evaporator Temperature Sensor harness connector.
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Yes
Repair the (C21) Evaporator Temperature Sensor Signal circuit for an open.
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK (C121) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Fig. 7: Measuring Resistance Of (C121) Sensor Ground Circuit Between A/C Heater Control C1
Harness Connector And Evaporator Temperature Sensor Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (C121) Sensor Ground circuit between the A/C Heater Control C1 harness
connector and the Evaporator Temperature Sensor harness connector.
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Yes
Repair the (C121) Sensor Ground circuit for an open.

No
Replace the Evaporator Temperature Sensor in accordance with the service information.
B1034-INFRARED TEMPERATURE SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the IR Sensor fails the internal self test.
Possible Causes
A/C HEATER CONTROL
NOTE: This DTC must be active for the results of this test to be valid. Do not perform
this test if this DTC is stored. Refer to HVAC System Test (ATC) for stored DTC
test procedures.
Diagnostic Test
1) REPLACE THE A/C HEATER CONTROL
Repair
B1034-INFRARED TEMPERATURE SENSOR THERMISTOR CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
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Set Condition:
Possible Causes
A/C HEATER CONTROL
test procedures.
Diagnostic Test
Repair
B1035-INFRARED TEMPERATURE SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
A/C HEATER CONTROL
test procedures.
Diagnostic Test
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Repair
B1040-PANEL MODE DOOR 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
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Fig. 8: Panel Mode Door 1 Control Circuit Schematic

The A/C Heater Control drives the Mode Door Actuator via the (C35) Mode Door Driver circuit and the (C154)
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Common Door Driver circuit. The Mode Door Actuator shares the (C154) Common Door Driver circuit with
the blend door and Recirculation Door Actuators.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control detects a short to ground or to voltage on the (C32) Recirculation Door Driver,
the (C54) Blend Door Driver, or the (C154) Common Door Driver circuits while attempting to drive the
(C35) Mode Door Driver.
Possible Causes
(C32) RECIRCULATION DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(C54) BLEND DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(C35) MODE DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(C154) COMMON DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(C32) RECIRCULATION DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(C54) BLEND DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(C35) MODE DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(C154) COMMON DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
RECIRCULATION DOOR ACTUATOR
MODE DOOR ACTUATOR
BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Using the A/C Heater Control, actuate the Mode Door.
Yes
Go to 2).
No
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2) CHECK (C32) RECIRCULATION DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 9: Measuring Voltage Of (C32) Recirculation Door Driver Circuit In A/C Heater Control C1
Harness Connector
Measure the voltage of the (C32) Recirculation Door Driver circuit in the A/C Heater Control C1 harness
connector.
Yes
Repair the (C32) Recirculation Door Driver circuit for a short to voltage.
No
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Go to 3).
3) CHECK (C35) MODE DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 10: Measuring Voltage Of (C35) Mode Door Driver Circuit In A/C Heater Control C1 Harness
Connector
Measure the voltage of the (C35) Mode Door Driver circuit in the A/C Heater Control C1 harness
connector.
Yes
Repair the (C35) Mode Door Driver circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK (C54) BLEND DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE
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Fig. 11: Measuring Voltage Of (C54) Blend Door Driver Circuit In A/C Heater Control C1 Harness
Connector
Measure the voltage of the (C54) Blend Door Driver circuit in the A/C Heater Control C1 harness
connector.
Yes
Repair the (C54) Blend Door Driver circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK (C154) COMMON DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE
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Fig. 12: Measuring Voltage Of (C154) Common Door Driver Circuit In A/C Heater Control C1
Harness Connector
Measure the voltage of the (C154) Common Door Driver circuit in the A/C Heater Control C1 harness
connector.
Yes
Repair the (C154) Common Door Driver circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Go to 6).
6) CHECK (C32) RECIRCULATION DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
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Fig. 13: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (C32) Recirculation Door Driver Circuit In
A/C Heater Control C1 Harness Connector
Measure the resistance between ground and the (C32) Recirculation Door Driver circuit in the A/C Heater
Yes
Go to 7).
No
Repair the (C32) Recirculation Door Driver circuit for a short to ground.
7) CHECK (C54) DRIVER BLEND DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
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Fig. 14: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (C54) Driver Blend Door Driver Circuit In
Measure the resistance between ground and the (C54) Driver Blend Door Driver circuit in the A/C Heater
Yes
Go to 8).
No
Repair the (C54) Driver Blend Door Driver circuit for a short to ground.
8) CHECK (C35) MODE DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
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Fig. 15: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (C35) Mode Door Driver Circuit In A/C
Heater Control C1 Harness Connector
Measure the resistance between ground and the (C35) Mode Door Driver circuit in the A/C Heater
Yes
Go to 9).
No
Repair the (C35) Mode Door Driver circuit for a short to ground.
9) CHECK (C154) COMMON DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
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Fig. 16: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (C154) Common Door Driver Circuit In A/C
Measure the resistance between ground and the (C154) Common Door Driver circuit in the A/C Heater
Yes
Go to 10).
No
Repair the (C154) Common Door Driver circuit for a short to ground.
10) CHECK RECIRCULATION DOOR ACTUATOR CIRCUIT RESISTANCE
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Fig. 17: Measuring Resistance Between (C32) Recirculation Door Driver Circuit And (C154)
Common Door Driver Circuit In A/C Heater Control C1 Harness Connector
Measure the resistance between the (C32) Recirculation Door Driver circuit and the (C154) Common
Door Driver circuit in the A/C Heater Control C1 harness connector.
Is the resistance between 30 and 40 ohms?
Yes
Go to 11).
No
Replace the Recirculation Door Actuator in accordance with the service information.
11) CHECK MODE DOOR ACTUATOR CIRCUIT RESISTANCE
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Fig. 18: Measuring Resistance Between (C35) Mode Door Driver Circuit And (C154) Common
Door Driver Circuit In A/C Heater Control C1 Harness Connector
Measure the resistance between the (C35) Mode Door Driver circuit and the (C154) Common Door
Driver circuit in the A/C Heater Control C1 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 12).
No
Replace the Mode Door Actuator in accordance with the service information.
12) CHECK BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR CIRCUIT RESISTANCE
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Fig. 19: Measuring Resistance Between (C54) Blend Door Driver Circuit And (C154) Common
Measure the resistance between the (C54) Blend Door Driver circuit and the (C154) Common Door
Yes
Go to 13).
No
Replace the Blend Door Actuator in accordance with the service information.
13) RUN THE ACTUATOR CALIBRATION TEST
Reconnect the A/C Heater Control C1 harness connector.
Turn the ignition off, wait 10 seconds, and then turn the ignition on.
With the scan tool, select System Tests and then select Actuator Calibration Test. When the test is
complete, select View DTCs.
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Does the scan tool only display: B1040-PANEL MODE DOOR 1 CONTROL
CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE?
Yes
No, Other DTC(s) Displayed
Diagnose and repair the other DTC(s). Refer to the DIAGNOSTIC CODE INDEX for a complete
list of all HVAC related symptoms.
No, And No Other DTCs Displayed
Using the wiring diagram as a guide, inspect the wiring and connectors for conditions causing an
intermittent short. Repair as necessary.
B1043-PANEL MODE DOOR 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
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Fig. 20: Panel Mode Door 1 Control Circuit Schematic

The A/C Heater Control drives the Mode Door Actuator via the (C35) Mode Door Driver circuit and the (C154)
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Common Door Driver circuit.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If Mode Door Actuator's electrical circuit is open.
Possible Causes
(C35) MODE DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
(C154) COMMON DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
MODE DOOR ACTUATOR
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Using the A/C Heater Control, actuate the Panel Mode Door.
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK (C154) COMMON DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
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Fig. 21: Measuring Resistance Of (C154) Common Door Driver Circuit Between A/C Heater
Control C1 Harness Connector And Mode Door Actuator Harness Connector
Disconnect the Mode Door Actuator harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (C154) Common Door Driver circuit between the A/C Heater Control C1
harness connector and the Mode Door Actuator harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (C154) Common Door Driver circuit for an open.

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No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (C35) MODE DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Fig. 22: Measuring Resistance Of (C35) Mode Door Driver Circuit Between A/C Heater Control C1
Harness Connector And Mode Door Actuator Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (C35) Mode Door Driver circuit between the A/C Heater Control C1
harness connector and the Mode Door Actuator harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (C35) Mode Door Driver circuit for an open.

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No
Go to 4).
Reconnect the Mode Door Actuator harness connector.
Yes
No
B1044-PANEL MODE DOOR 1 TRAVEL RANGE TOO SMALL
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The A/C Heater Control calibrates each actuator individually. Automatic calibration occurs upon power up after
installing a new A/C Heater Control. Manual calibration occurs by sending a command with the scan tool. The
purpose of actuator calibration is to determine the total span of door travel between physical stops. To calibrate
the actuator, the A/C Heater Control first moves the door to its soft stop, and then counts the number of pulses it
takes to move the door to its other stop. An expected range of span is stored in the control's memory. If the
measured calibration value is less than the expected range for this actuator, this DTC will set. Note that the
control clears all stored calibration faults at the beginning of the calibration procedure.
When Monitored:
During actuator calibration.
Set Condition:
If the total span of the Mode Door is less than the low range limit.
Possible Causes
DOOR DRIVER ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT(S)
MODE DOOR SEIZED, BINDING, OBSTRUCTED
MODE DOOR ACTUATOR
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR ACTIVE CONTROL CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE & CONTROL CIRCUIT

OPEN DTCs
With the scan tool, read active HVAC DTCs.
Does the scan tool display any active CONTROL CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE or CONTROL
CIRCUIT OPEN DTCs?
Yes
Diagnose and repair the DTC(s). If present, diagnose and repair all Rear Blend and Rear Mode
Door Control Circuit/Performance DTCs first, all other Control Circuit/Performance DTCs second,
and all Control Circuit Open DTCs last. Refer to the DIAGNOSTIC CODE INDEX for a
complete list of all HVAC related symptoms.
No
Go to 2).
2) INSPECT ACTUATOR & HOUSING ASSEMBLY FOR A CONDITION CAUSING THE
DOOR TO SEIZE OR BIND
Microsoft
Inspect the actuator, linkage, and housing assembly for a condition causing the door to seize or bind.
Are there any physical or mechanical problems with the door, housing, linkage, or actuator?
Yes
Repair as necessary in accordance with the service information.

No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK MODE DOOR TRAVEL
Remove the Mode Door Actuator from the A/C Heater Housing Assembly.
By hand, attempt to rotate the door in both directions. The door should operate smoothly in both
directions over approximately 90 degrees of travel.
Does the door operate smoothly in both directions over approximately 90 degrees of travel?
Yes
Replace the Mode Door Actuator in accordance with the service information. Then, go to 4).
No

Yes
Microsoft
No
B1045-PANEL MODE DOOR 1 TRAVEL RANGE TOO LARGE
measured calibration value exceeds the expected range for this actuator, this DTC will set. Note that the control
clears all stored calibration faults at the beginning of the calibration procedure.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the total span of the Mode 1 (Floor to Panel) Door exceeds the high range limit.
Possible Causes
MODE DOOR OR A/C HEATER HOUSING COMPONENTS WARPED, WORN, DAMAGED,
MISSING, BROKEN
MODE DOOR 1 (FLOOR TO PANEL) ACTUATOR
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test

OPEN DTCs
CIRCUIT OPEN DTCs?
Yes
Microsoft
No
Go to 2).
2) CHECK FOR A BROKEN MODE DOOR 1 (FLOOR TO PANEL) ACTUATOR
Remove the Mode Door 1 (Floor to Panel) Actuator from the A/C Heater Housing Assembly.
By hand, attempt to rotate the actuator in both directions.
Does the actuator turn in either direction?
Yes
Replace the Mode Door 1 (Floor to Panel) Actuator in accordance with the service information.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK MODE 1 (FLOOR TO PANEL) DOOR & A/C HEATER HOUSING FOR WARPED,
WORN, DAMAGED, MISSING, & BROKEN COMPONENTS
Inspect for excessively worn, disconnected, missing, or broken door linkage. Inspect for a damaged or
broken A/C Heater Housing Assembly. Inspect for a warped or broken door, and missing door seals.
Rotate the door from stop to stop. The door should rotate approximately 90 degrees.
Are there any physical or mechanical problems with the door or housing?
Yes

No
Replace the Mode Door 1 (Floor to Panel) Actuator in accordance with the service information.
Then, go to 4).
Microsoft
Yes
No
B1058-RECIRCULATION DOOR CONTROL CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
Microsoft
Fig. 24: Recirculation Door Control Circuit Schematic

The A/C Heater Control drives the Recirculation Door Actuator via the (C32) Recirculation Door Driver and
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the (C154) Common Door Driver.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
the (C54) Blend Door Driver, the (C35) Mode Door Driver, or the (C154) Common Door Driver circuits
while attempting to drive the (C32) Recirculation Door Driver.
Possible Causes
MODE DOOR ACTUATOR
BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Using the A/C Heater Control, actuate the Recirculation Door.
Yes
Go to 2).
No
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Harness Connector
connector.
Yes
No
Go to 3).
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Connector
connector.
Yes
No
Go to 4).
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Connector
connector.
Yes
No
Go to 5).
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Harness Connector
connector.
Yes
No
Go to 6).
Microsoft
Yes
Go to 7).
No
Microsoft
Yes
Go to 8).
No
Microsoft
Yes
Go to 9).
No
Microsoft
Yes
Go to 10).
No
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Yes
Go to 11).
No
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Yes
Go to 12).
No
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Yes
Go to 13).
No
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Does the scan tool only display: B1058-RECIRCULATION DOOR CONTROL

Yes
B105B-RECIRCULATION DOOR CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN (TIPM)
When Monitored:
When actuator movement is requested.
Set Condition:
If the (C268) Recirculation Door Driver circuit or the (C68) Recirculation Door Common Driver circuit is
open.
Possible Causes
(C268) RECIRCULATION DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
(C68) RECIRCULATION DOOR COMMON DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR ACTIVE CONTROL CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE DTCs
Microsoft
Does the scan tool display any active: XXXX CONTROL CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE DTCs?
Yes
all HVAC related symptoms.
No
Go to 2).
2) CHECK THE RECIRCULATION DOOR ACTUATOR CIRCUIT RESISTANCE
Measure the resistance between the (C268) Recirculation Door Driver circuit and the (C68) Recirculation
Door Common Driver circuit in the A/C Heater Control C2 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Replace the A/C Heater Control in accordance with the Service Information.
3) CHECK THE (C268) RECIRCULATION DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Disconnect the Recirculation Door Actuator harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (C268) Recirculation Door Driver circuit between the Recirculation Door
Actuator harness connector and the A/C Heater Control C2 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (C268) Recirculation Door Driver circuit for an open.

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4) CHECK THE (C68) RECIRCULATION DOOR COMMON DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR AN

OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (C68) Recirculation Door Common Driver circuit between the Recirculation
Door Actuator harness connector and the A/C Heater Control C2 harness connector.
Yes
Replace the Recirculation Door Actuator in accordance with the Service Information.
No
Repair the (C68) Recirculation Door Common Driver circuit for an open.
B105B-RECIRCULATION DOOR CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
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Fig. 36: Recirculation Door Control Circuit Schematic

The A/C Heater Control drives the Recirculation Door Actuator via the (C32) Recirculation Door Driver circuit
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and the (C154) Common Door Driver 2 circuit.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Recirculation Door Actuator's electrical circuit is open.
Possible Causes
(C32) RECIRCULATION DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
(C154) COMMON DOOR DRIVER 2 CIRCUIT OPEN
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Using the A/C Heater Control, actuate the Recirculation Door.
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK (C32) RECIRCULATION DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 37: Measuring Resistance Of (C32) Recirculation Door Driver Circuit Between A/C Heater
Control C1 Harness Connector And Recirculation Door Actuator Harness Connector
Disconnect the Recirculation Door Actuator harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (C32) Recirculation Door Driver circuit between the A/C Heater Control C1
harness connector and the Recirculation Door Actuator harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (C32) Recirculation Door Driver circuit for an open.

Microsoft
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (C154) COMMON DOOR DRIVER 2 CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Fig. 38: Measuring Resistance Of (C154) Common Door Driver 2 Circuit Between A/C Heater
Control C1 Harness Connector And Recirculation Door Actuator Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (C154) Common Door Driver 2 circuit between the A/C Heater Control C1
harness connector and the Recirculation Door Actuator harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (C154) Common Door Driver 2 circuit for an open.

Microsoft
No
Go to 4).
Common Door Driver 2 Circuit In A/C Heater Control C1 Harness Connector
Reconnect the Recirculation Door Actuator harness connector.
Door Driver 2 circuit in the A/C Heater Control C1 harness connector.
Yes
No
B105C-RECIRCULATION DOOR TRAVEL RANGE TOO SMALL

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measured calibration value is less than the expected range for this actuator, this DTC will set. Note that the
control clears all stored calibration faults at the beginning of the calibration procedure.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the total span of the Recirculation Door is less than the low range limit.
Possible Causes
RECIRCULATION DOOR SEIZED, BINDING, OBSTRUCTED
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test

OPEN DTCs
CIRCUIT OPEN DTCs?
Yes
No
Go to 2).
2) INSPECT ACTUATOR & HOUSING ASSEMBLY FOR A CONDITION CAUSING THE
DOOR TO SEIZE OR BIND
Microsoft
Inspect the actuator and the housing assembly for a condition causing the door to seize or bind.
Are there any physical or mechanical problems with the door, housing, or actuator?
Yes

No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK RECIRCULATION DOOR TRAVEL
Remove the Recirculation Door Actuator from the A/C Heater Housing Assembly.
By hand, attempt to rotate the door in both directions. The door should operate smoothly in both
directions over approximately 70 degrees of travel.
Does the door operate smoothly in both directions over approximately 70 degrees of travel?
Yes
Replace the Recirculation Door Actuator in accordance with the service information. Then, go to
4).
No

Yes
Microsoft
No
B105D-RECIRCULATION DOOR TRAVEL RANGE TOO LARGE
measured calibration value exceeds the expected range for this actuator, this DTC will set. Note that the control
clears all stored calibration faults at the beginning of the calibration procedure.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the total span of the Recirculation Door exceeds the high range limit.
Possible Causes
RECIRCULATION DOOR OR A/C HEATER HOUSING COMPONENTS WARPED, WORN,
DAMAGED, MISSING, BROKEN
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test

OPEN DTCs
CIRCUIT OPEN DTCs?
Yes
Microsoft
No
Go to 2).
2) CHECK FOR A BROKEN RECIRCULATION DOOR ACTUATOR
Remove the Recirculation Door Actuator from the A/C Heater Housing Assembly.
By hand, attempt to rotate the actuator in both directions.
Does the actuator turn in either direction?
Yes
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK RECIRCULATION DOOR & A/C HEATER HOUSING FOR WARPED, WORN,
DAMAGED, MISSING, & BROKEN COMPONENTS
Inspect for a damaged or broken A/C Heater Housing Assembly, a warped, worn, or broken door, and
missing door seals. Rotate the door from stop to stop. The door should rotate approximately 70 degrees.
Are there any physical or mechanical problems with the door or housing?
Yes

No
Replace the Recirculation Door Actuator in accordance with the service information. Then, go to
4).
Microsoft
Yes
No
B10A2-LEFT BLEND DOOR CONTROL CIRCUIT/PERFORMANCE
Microsoft
Fig. 40: Blend Door Control Circuit Schematic

The A/C Heater Control monitors the door driver circuits during actuator operation for shorts to ground, shorts
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to battery, and shorts to other door driver circuits. If detected, the A/C Heater Control reports these types of
faults as Control Circuit/Performance DTCs.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
the (C35) Mode Door Driver, or the (C154) Common Door Driver circuits while attempting to drive the
(C54) Blend Door Driver.
Possible Causes
MODE DOOR ACTUATOR
BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Using the A/C Heater Control, actuate the Blend Door.
Yes
Go to 2).
No
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Harness Connector
connector.
Yes
No
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Go to 3).
Connector
connector.
Yes
No
Go to 4).
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Connector
connector.
Yes
No
Go to 5).
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Harness Connector
connector.
Yes
No
Go to 6).
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Yes
Go to 7).
No
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Yes
Go to 8).
No
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Yes
Go to 9).
No
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Yes
Go to 10).
No
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Yes
Go to 11).
No
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Yes
Go to 12).
No
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Yes
Go to 13).
No
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Does the scan tool only display: B10A2-LEFT BLEND DOOR CONTROL
Yes
B10A5-LEFT BLEND DOOR CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
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Fig. 52: Blend Door Control Circuit Schematic

The A/C Heater Control drives the Left Blend Door Actuator via the (C54) Left Blend Door Driver circuit and
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the (C154) Common Door Driver circuit.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Left Blend Door Actuator's electrical circuit is open.
Possible Causes
(C54) DRIVER BLEND DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
(C154) COMMON DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
LEFT BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Using the A/C Heater Control, actuate the Left Blend Door.
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK (C154) COMMON DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
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Fig. 53: Measuring Resistance Of (C154) Common Door Driver Circuit Between A/C Heater
Control C1 Harness Connector And Left Blend Door Actuator Harness Connector
Disconnect the Left Blend Door Actuator harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (C154) Common Door Driver circuit between the A/C Heater Control C1
harness connector and the Left Blend Door Actuator harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (C154) Common Door Driver circuit for an open.

Microsoft
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (C54) LEFT BLEND DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Fig. 54: Measuring Resistance Of (C54) Driver Blend Door Driver Circuit Between A/C Heater
Control C1 Way Harness Connector And Left Blend Door Actuator Harness Connector
Measure the resistance of the (C54) Driver Blend Door Driver circuit between the A/C Heater Control C1
way harness connector and the Left Blend Door Actuator harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (C54) Driver Blend Door Driver circuit for an open.
Microsoft
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK LEFT BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR CIRCUIT RESISTANCE
Fig. 55: Measuring Resistance Between (C54) Driver Blend Door Driver Circuit And (C154)
Reconnect the Left Blend Door Actuator harness connector.
Measure the resistance between the (C54) Driver Blend Door Driver circuit and the (C154) Common
Yes
No
B10B1-INFRARED SENSOR THERMISTOR CIRCUIT HIGH
Microsoft
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
A/C HEATER CONTROL
test procedures.
Diagnostic Test
Repair
B10B4-CABIN HEATER 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW (TIPM)
When Monitored:
With the ignition on, the Cabin Heater Relay energized.
Set Condition:
If the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) detects that the (K360) Cabin Heater 1 Relay Control
circuit is shorted to ground.
Possible Causes
(K360) CABIN HEATER 1 RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(K360) CABIN HEATER 1 RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
CABIN HEATER RELAY
TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (TIPM)
Diagnostic Test
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1) VERIFY THAT THE DTC IS ACTIVE
WARNING: When the engine is operating, do not stand in direct line with the fan,
do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts or fan. Do not wear
loose clothing.
NOTE: Before erasing stored DTCs, record these conditions. Attempting to

duplicate these conditions may assist when checking for an active DTC.
With the scan tool, actuate the Cabin Heater Relay.
Monitor the scan tool for at least two minutes.
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK (K360) CABIN HEATER 1 RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO
GROUND
Remove the Cabin Heater Relay.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (K360) Cabin Heater 1 Relay Control circuit in the TIPM
C1 harness connector.
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Yes
Repair the (K360) Cabin Heater 1 Relay Control circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (K360) CABIN HEATER 1 RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (K360) Cabin Heater 1 Relay Control circuit between the Cabin Heater
Relay connector and the TIPM C1 harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (K360) Cabin Heater 1 Relay Control circuit for an open.
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK PTC NO. 1 RELAY
Install the FCM.
Install a substitute PTC No. 1 Relay in place of the vehicle's PTC No. 1 Relay.
With the scan tool, erase FCM DTCs.
With the scan tool, actuate the PTC No. 1 Relay.
With the scan tool, read FCM DTCs.
Is the status Active for this DTC?
Yes
Go to 5).
No
Microsoft
Replace the PTC No. 1 Relay in accordance with the Service Information.
5) INSPECT RELATED WIRING & CHECK FOR TSBs
Using the wiring diagram/schematic as a guide, inspect the wiring and connectors between the PTC No. 1
Relay and the FCM.
Look for any chafed, pierced, pinched, or partially broken wires.
Look for broken, bent, pushed out or corroded terminals.
Refer to any Technical Service Bulletins that may apply.
Yes
No
Replace the FCM in accordance with the Service Information.

B10B8-CABIN HEATER 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW (TIPM)
When Monitored:
With the ignition on, the ASD Relay energized, and the PTC No. 2 Relay command on.
Set Condition:
If the Front Control Module (FCM) detects that the (K361) PTC No. 2 Relay Control circuit is shorted to
ground.
Possible Causes
(K342) FUSED ASD RELAY OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
(K361) PTC NO. 2 RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(K361) PTC NO. 2 RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
PTC NO. 2 RELAY
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FRONT CONTROL MODULE (FCM)
Diagnostic Test
Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts or fan. Do not wear
loose clothing.
NOTE: If the FCM detects and stores a DTC, the FCM also stores the
environmental conditions under which the DTC was set.

Yes
Go to 2).
No
Check for an intermittent condition by inspecting the related wiring harness for chaffed, pierced,
pinched, and partially broken wires. Also, inspect the related connectors for broken, bent, pushed
out, spread, corroded, or contaminated terminals.
2) CHECK (K342) FUSED ASD RELAY OUTPUT CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN OR HIGH
RESISTANCE
Remove the PTC No. 2 Relay.

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Using a 12 volt test light connected to ground, check the (K342) Fused ASD Relay Output circuit in the
PTC No. 2 Relay harness connector.
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Repair the (K342) Fused ASD Relay Output circuit for an open or high resistance.
3) CHECK (K361) PTC NO. 2 RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Disconnect the FCM from the Power Module.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (K361) PTC No. 2 Relay Control circuit in the PTC No. 2
Relay connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (K361) PTC No. 2 Relay Control circuit for a short to ground.
4) CHECK (K361) PTC NO. 2 RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN OR HIGH
RESISTANCE
Measure the resistance of the (K361) PTC No. 2 Relay Control circuit between the PTC No. 2 Relay
connector and the FCM connector.
Yes
Microsoft
Go to 5).
No
Repair the (K361) PTC No. 2 Relay Control circuit for an open or high resistance.
Install the FCM.
Install a substitute PTC No. 2 Relay in place of the vehicle's PTC No. 2 Relay.
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Relay and the FCM.
Microsoft
Yes
No
Replace the Front Control Module (FCM) in accordance with the Service Information.
B10B9-CABIN HEATER 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH (TIPM)
When Monitored:
With the ignition on, the ASD Relay energized, and the PTC No. 2 Relay command on.
Set Condition:
If the Front Control Module (FCM) detects that the (K361) PTC No. 2 Relay Control circuit voltage is
shorted to voltage.
Possible Causes
(K361) PTC NO. 2 RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(K361) PTC NO. 2 RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
PTC NO. 2 RELAY
FRONT CONTROL MODULE (FCM)
Diagnostic Test
Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts or fan. Do not wear
loose clothing.
NOTE: If the FCM detects and stores a DTC, the FCM also stores the
environmental conditions under which the DTC was set.

Microsoft
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Check for an intermittent condition by inspecting the related wiring harness for chaffed, pierced,
pinched, and partially broken wires. Also, inspect the related connectors for broken, bent, pushed
out, spread, corroded, or contaminated terminals.
Remove the PTC No. 2 Relay.
NOTE: The scan tool should display an open circuit DTC with the PTC No. 2 Relay
removed.
Does the scan tool display: B10B9-CABIN HEATER 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Microsoft
3) CHECK (K361) PTC NO. 2 RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Disconnect the FCM from the Power Module.
Remove the ASD Relay from the IPM.
Connect a jumper wire between cavity 30 and cavity 87 of the ASD Relay Connector.
Measure the voltage of the (K361) PTC No. 2 Relay Control circuit in the PTC No. 2 Relay connector.
Yes
Repair the (K361) PTC No. 2 Relay Control circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK (K361) PTC NO. 2 RELAY CONTROL FOR AN OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
Measure the resistance of the (K361) PTC No. 2 Relay Control circuit between the PTC No. 2 Relay
connector and the FCM connector.
Yes
Go to 5).
No
Repair the (K361) PTC No. 2 Relay Control circuit for an open or high resistance.
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Relay and the FCM.
Yes
No
Replace the FCM in accordance with the Service Information.

B10EA-BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
With the ignition on. Battery voltage greater than 10.4 volts. TIPM requesting Blower Motor operation.
Set Condition:
If the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) detects a short to voltage condition on the (C7) Blower
Motor Control circuit.
Possible Causes
(C7) BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(C7) BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
BLOWER MOTOR
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
With the A/C control, turn on the Blower Motor.
Does the scan tool display active: B10EA-BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK (C7) BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Disconnect the Blower Motor harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (C7) Blower Motor Control circuit between the TIPM C8 harness connector
and the Blower Motor harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (C7) Blower Motor Control circuit for an open.

No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (C7) BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Microsoft
With a volt meter measure the voltage on the (C7) Blower Motor Control circuit.
Does the volt meter read above 10.0 volts?
Yes
Repair the (C7) Blower Motor Control circuit for a short to voltage.
No
Go to 4).
4) TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE
With the A/C control, turn on the Blower Motor.
Does the scan tool display active: B10EA-BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH?
Yes
Replace the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) in accordance with the service information.
No
Replace the Blower Motor in accordance with the service information.

B10EC-BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT (TIPM)
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Microsoft
The Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) will set this DTC if it detects an overcurrent condition on
the (C7) Blower Motor Control circuit for more than 500 ms when blower motor operation is requested.
Possible Causes
BLOCKAGE STALLING BLOWER MOTOR
BLOWER MOTOR
Diagnostic Test
1) VERIFY DTC B10EC-BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT IS

ACTIVE
Does the scan tool display active: B10EC-BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT
OVERCURRENT?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FOR PROPER BLOWER MOTOR OPERATION
Turn the Blower Motor on.
Does the Blower Motor operate normally?
Yes
Go to 5).
Microsoft
No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK FOR 12 VOLTS TO THE BLOWER MOTOR
Disconnect the Blower Motor harness connector.
Turn the Blower Motor control on.
Using a volt meter measure the voltage on the (C7) Blower Motor Control circuit in the Blower Motor
harness connector.
Does the volt meter read 12 volts?
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Go to 5).
4) CHECK FOR A BLOCKAGE STALLING THE BLOWER MOTOR
Remove the Blower Motor from the HVAC housing assembly.
Look for anything on the Blower Motor and in the HVAC housing that is physically preventing Blower
Motor operation.
Is anything physically preventing Blower Motor operation?
Yes
Repair as necessary. Also, check Blower Motor for proper operation. Reinstall, or replace the
Blower Motor as necessary in accordance with the service information.
No
Replace the Blower Motor in accordance with the service information.

5) CHECK FOR CHAFING IN THE (C7) BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT
Microsoft
Check the (C7) Blower Motor Control circuit for wire chafing.
Is any wire chafing present?
Yes
Repair the wire chafing on the (C7) Blower Motor Control circuit.
No
B1138-CABIN HEATER 3 CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW (TIPM)
When Monitored:
With the ignition on, the Cabin Heater Relay 2 commanded on.
Set Condition:
If the Totally Integrated Power Module detects the (K232) Cabin Heater Relay 2 Control circuit is shorted
to ground.
Possible Causes
(K232) CABIN HEATER RELAY 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
CABIN HEATER 2 RELAY
Diagnostic Test
With the scan tool, actuate the Cabin Heater 2 Relay.
Monitor the scan tool, for at least two minutes.
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Does the scan tool, display active: B10B8-CABIN HEATER 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK (K232) CABIN HEATER RELAY 2 OUTPUT CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO GROUND
Remove the Cabin Heater Relay 2.
Using an ohm meter measure the resistance between the (K232) Cabin Heater Relay 2 Output circuit and
ground.
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Repair the (K232) Cabin Heater Relay 2 Output circuit for a short to ground.
3) TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (TIPM)
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Does the scan tool display active: B10B8-CABIN HEATER 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
No
Replace the Cabin Heater Relay 2 in accordance with the service information.
B1139-CABIN HEATER 3 CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH (TIPM)
When Monitored:
With the ignition on, the Cabin Heater Relay 2 is commanded on.
Set Condition:
If the Totally Integrated Power Module detects a short to voltage on the (K232) Cabin Heater Relay 2
Control circuit.
Possible Causes
(K232) CABIN HEATER RELAY 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
CABIN HEATER RELAY 2
Diagnostic Test
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Does the scan tool, display active: B10B9-CABIN HEATER 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK THE (K232) CABIN HEATER RELAY 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO
VOLTAGE
Remove the Cabin Heater Relay 2.
With a volt meter, measure the voltage on the (K232) Cabin Heater Relay 2 Control circuit.
Does the volt meter read 1.0 volt or above?
Yes
Repair short to voltage on the (K232) Cabin Heater Relay 2 Control circuit.
No
Go to 3).
3) TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE
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Does the scan tool display active: B10B9-CABIN HEATER 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH?
Yes
Replace the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM in accordance with the service information.
No
Replace the Cabin Heater Relay 2 in accordance with the service information.
B1610-AMBIENT LIGHT SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Ambient Light Sensor input is out of range toward the low voltage threshold.
Possible Causes
(L24) AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
SUNLOAD SENSOR
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
1) VERIFY THE DTC IS ACTIVE
Turn the ignition switch on.
With a scan tool, read and record DTCs.
With the scan tool, clear DTCs.
Turn the ignition switch off, and then on.
Using the scan tool, read DTCs.

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Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK FOR ACTIVE DTC WITH SUNLOAD SENSOR HARNESS CONNECTOR
DISCONNECTED
Disconnect the Sunload Sensor harness connector.
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Replace the Sunload Sensor in accordance with the service information.

3) CHECK (L24) AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Measure the resistance of the (L24) Auto Headlamps Signal circuit between ground and the A/C Heater

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Yes
No
Repair the (L24) Auto Headlamps Signal circuit for a short to ground.
B1610-AMBIENT LIGHT SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Ambient Light Sensor input is out of range.
Possible Causes
(L24) AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
(L24) AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(C121) SENSOR GROUND OPEN
SUNLOAD SENSOR
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No
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2) CHECK (L24) AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (L24) Auto Headlamps Signal circuit between the Sunload Sensor harness
connector and the A/C Heater Control C1 harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (L24) Auto Headlamps Signal circuit for an open.

No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (L24) AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Measure the resistance between ground and the (L24) Auto Headlamps Signal circuit in the A/C Heater
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (L24) Auto Headlamps Signal circuit for a short to ground.
4) CHECK (C121) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (C121) Sensor Ground circuit between the Sunload Sensor harness
connector and the A/C Heater Control C1 harness connector.
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Yes
Repair the (C121) Sensor Ground circuit for an open.

No
Go to 5).
5) CHECK THE SUNLOAD SENSOR
Using the scan tool, observe the Auto Headlamp signal while connecting a jumper wire between the
(L24) Auto Headlamps Signal circuit and the (C121) Sensor Ground circuit in the Sunload Sensor harness
connector.
Does the Auto Headlamp signal change from approximately 5 volts to 0 volts?
Yes

No
B1611-AMBIENT LIGHT SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the Ambient Light Sensor input is out of range toward the high voltage threshold.
Possible Causes
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(L24) AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE

SUNLOAD SENSOR
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR ACTIVE DTC WITH THE SUNLOAD SENSOR HARNESS CONNECTOR
DISCONNECTED
Yes
Go to 2).
No

2) CHECK (L24) AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Measure the voltage of the (L24) Auto Headlamps Signal circuit between ground and the A/C Heater
Yes
Repair the (L24) Auto Headlamps Signal circuit for a short to voltage.
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No
B210A-SYSTEM VOLTAGE LOW
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Fig. 56: Fused Run-Start Relay Output Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
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With the ignition switch on.
Set Condition:
The A/C Heater Control has detected the system voltage is low.
Possible Causes
(F943) FUSED RUN-START RELAY OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
NOTE: Diagnose any related Powertrain DTCs before continuing.
Turn the ignition switch on.
With a scan tool, read and record DTCs.
With the scan tool, clear DTCs.
Turn the ignition switch off, and then on.
Using the scan tool, read DTCs.
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) (F943) FUSED RUN-START RELAY OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
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Fig. 57: Using 12 Volt Test Light Connected To Ground To Probe (F943) Fused Run-Start Relay
Output Circuit In A/C Heater Control C1 Harness Connector
NOTE: Check the related fuses to the Fused Ignition Switch Output (Run-Start)
circuit. If the fuse is found to be open repair the circuit for a shorted
condition.
Using a 12 volt test light connected to ground, probe the (F943) Fused Run-Start Relay Output circuit in
the A/C Heater Control C1 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Repair the (F943) Fused Run-Start Relay Output circuit for an open.
3) CHECK THE A/C HEATER CONTROL
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NOTE: A dirty (partial) ground can cause abnormal conditions within a system.
Make sure the module has a good ground before continuing.
While back probing, measure the voltage of the (F943) Fused Run-Start Relay Output circuit in the A/C
Heater Control C1 harness connector.
Start the engine.
Using the scan tool, view battery voltage under Data Display in the Engine category.
Compare the voltage on the scan tool to the voltage reading on the voltmeter.
Is the voltage on the scan tool equal to the voltmeter reading within +/- 0.5 volt?
Yes
No
Repair the circuit(s) that indicated the incorrect voltage.

Perform SKREEM/SKIM VERIFICATION TEST .
B210B-SYSTEM VOLTAGE HIGH
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Fig. 58: Fused Run-Start Relay Output Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
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Set Condition:
The A/C Heater Control has detected the system voltage is high.
Possible Causes
(F943) FUSED RUN-START RELAY OUTPUT CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK (F943) FUSED RUN-START RELAY OUTPUT CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO
BATTERY VOLTAGE
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Fig. 59: Using Volt Meter Measure Voltage On (F943) Fused Run-Start Relay Output Circuit In
Using a volt meter measure the voltage on the (F943) Fused Run-Start Relay Output circuit in the A/C
Yes
Repair the (F943) Fused Run-Start Relay Output circuit for a short to voltage.
No
B2214-(HVAC) CLIMATE CONTROL INTERNAL
When Monitored:
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Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control has an internal fault. This DTC has a maturing time of 5 seconds and a de-
maturing time of 10 seconds. If the DTC's status changes from active to stored it will stay in memory for
100 ignition cycles.
Possible Causes
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Yes
No
B222A-VEHICLE LINE MISMATCH
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
The A/C Heater Control will receive and monitor the vehicle line message from the PCM and record the
vehicle line if different from the last vehicle line.
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Possible Causes
PCM
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) CHECK VEHICLE LINE IN PCM
With the scan tool compare the vehicle line that is programmed into the PCM to the vehicle line of the
vehicle.
Does the vehicle line programmed into the PCM match the vehicle?
Yes
A/C Heater Control in accordance with the service information.
No
Replace and program the Powertrain Control Module in accordance with the service information.
Ensure the PCM is replaced with the correct vehicle line PCM.
U0010-CAN INTERIOR BUS
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When Monitored:
Continuously
Set Condition:
If the CAN Interior Bus (+) or CAN Interior Bus (-) circuit is open, shorted to voltage, or shorted to
ground.
Possible Causes
ACTIVE CAN BUS DTC IN THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER CONTROL MODULE
(D265) CAN C INTERIOR BUS (125K) (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
(D264) CAN C INTERIOR BUS (125K) (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
A/C HEATER CONTROL
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No
If the DTC is stored, check for an intermittent condition by inspecting the related wiring harness for
chafed, pierced, pinched, and partially broken wires. Also, inspect the related connectors for
broken, bent, pushed out, spread, corroded, or contaminated terminals.
2) CHECK FOR ACTIVE CAN BUS RELATED DTCS IN THE TOTALLY INTEGRATE
POWER MODULE (TIPM)
With the scan tool, read the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) DTCs
Does the scan tool display any active CAN BUS related DTCs?
Yes
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Diagnose and repair the DTC(s).

No
Go to 3).
3) CHECK (D265) CAN INTERIOR BUS (+) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Disconnect the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) C7 harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the (D265) CAN Interior Bus (+) circuit between the Totally Integrated Power
Module (TIPM) C7 harness connector and the A/C Heater Control C1 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 4).
No
Repair the (D265) CAN Interior Bus (+) circuit for an open.
4) CHECK (D264) CAN INTERIOR BUS (-) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (D264) CAN Interior Bus (-) circuit between the Totally Integrated Power
Module (TIPM) C7 connector and the A/C Heater Control C1 harness connector.
Yes
Go to 5).
No
Repair the (D264) CAN Interior Bus (-) circuit for an open.
5) CHECK (D265) CAN C INTERIOR BUS (+) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
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Measure the resistance between ground and the (D265) CAN C Interior Bus (125K) (+) circuit in the A/C
Yes
Go to 6).
No
Repair the (D265) CAN C Interior Bus (+) circuit for a short to ground.
6) CHECK (D264) CAN C INTERIOR BUS (-) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Measure the resistance between ground and the (D264) CAN C Interior Bus (125K) (-) circuit in the A/C
Yes
Go to 7).
No
Repair the (D264) CAN C Interior Bus (-) circuit for a short to ground.
7) CHECK (D265) CAN C INTERIOR BUS (+) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Measure the voltage of the (D265) CAN C Interior Bus (125K) (+) circuit in the A/C Heater Control C1
harness connector.
Is the voltage below 0.2 volts?
Yes
Go to 8).
No
Repair the (D265) CAN C Interior Bus (+) circuit for a short to voltage.
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8) CHECK (D264) CAN C INTERIOR BUS (-) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Measure the voltage of the (D264) CAN C Interior Bus (125K) (-) circuit in the A/C Heater Control C1
harness connector.
Is the voltage below 0.2 volts?
Yes
Replace the A/C Heater Control in accordance with the Service Information.
No
Repair the (D264) CAN C Interior Bus (-) circuit for a short to voltage.
U0141-LOST COMM W/INTEGRATED POWER MODULE/FRONT CONTROL MODULE/TIPM
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM).
U0151-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH OCCUPANT RESTRAINT CONTROLLER (ORC)
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC).

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When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control looses communication with the Occupant Classification Module (OCM).
U0155-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH CLUSTER/CCN
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Cluster (CCN).
U0159-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH PARKING ASSIST CONTROL MODULE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Parktronics (PTS).
U0167-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH INTRUSION TRANSCEIVER CONTROL MODULE
When Monitored:

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Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Intrusion Transceiver Control Module (ITM).
U0168-LOST COM WITH VEHICLE SECURITY CONTROL MODULE (SKREEM/WCM)
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Vehicle Security Control Module
(SKREEM/WCM).
U0169-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH SUNROOF CONTROL MODULE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Sunroof Control Module (SCM).
U0181-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH HEADLAMP LEVELING TRANSLATOR
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control looses communication with the Headlamp Leveling Translator.
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When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Radio.
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Amplifier (AMP).
U0187-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH DVD PLAYER
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the DVD Player.
U0196-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH VEHICLE ENTERTAINMENT CONTROL MODULE

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When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Vehicle Entertainment System (VES).
U0197-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH HANDS FREE PHONE MODULE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Hands Free Phone Module (HFM).
U0200-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH PASSENGER DOOR MODULE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Passenger Door Module (PDM).
U0201-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH LEFT REAR DOOR MODULE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
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If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Left Rear Door Module (LRDM).
U0202-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH RIGHT REAR DOOR MODULE
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Right Rear Door Module (LRDM).
U0203-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH DOOR MODULE FRONT LEFT
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Left Front Door Module (LRDM).
U0203-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH DOOR MODULE FRONT RIGHT
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control loses communication with the Right Front Door Module (LRDM).
U0209-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH MEMORY SEAT CONTROL MODULE

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When Monitored:
Set Condition:
If the A/C Heater Control looses communication with the Memory Seat Module (MSM).
*HVAC SYSTEM TEST
Diagnostic Test
1) HVAC SYSTEM TEST
NOTE: The HVAC System Test consists of four tests. Test 2 tests A/C system
performance, Test 3 tests for mode switch, door actuator circuit, and
auxiliary coolant pump circuit faults, Test 4 tests for shorted door actuator
circuits, and Test 5 tests for door actuator calibration faults. Either
perform all four tests for a complete system test or perform an individual
test if diagnosing a specific symptom.
NOTE: Active DTCs must be resolved before diagnosing stored DTCs.
Start the engine.
Choose a diagnostic test to perform
Complete HVAC System Test
Go to step 2).
A/C System Performance Test
Go to step 2).
Mode Switch, Door Actuator CKT, & Auxiliary Coolant Pump CKT Test
Go to step 3).
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Actuator DTC Detection Test
Go to step 4).
Actuator Calibration Test
Go to step 5).
2) A/C SYSTEM PERFORMANCE TEST
NOTE: The work area ambient temperature must be above 15.6°C (60°F) and the
evaporator temperature must be above 18.3°C (65°F) in order to test A/C
system performance.
NOTE: Before actuating the Cooldown Test, verify that the mode setting is not in
a defrost position and that the A/C compressor is not running. If the
compressor is running, turn the A/C off and allow the evaporator to warm
up before proceeding with the test.
NOTE: Running the Cooldown test will cause the A/C status indicator to flash.
NOTE: One or more status messages will display on the scan tool after running
the Cooldown Test. These messages will clear after paging back out of
this test function. Therefore, it is important to note all messages before
doing so.
Set the mode to the Panel position.
Verify that the front blower motor operates correctly in all speeds. Diagnose and repair all blower related
faults before proceeding with this test.
Set the front blower speed to high.
With the scan tool in HVAC, select System Tests and then select Cooldown test. Allow the test to run to
completion.
Does the scan tool display a status message that indicates a fault has occurred?
Yes, Conditions Too Cold - Test Not Run
If running, turn the A/C compressor off. Verify that the work area ambient temperature is above
15.6°C (60°F). If not, move the vehicle to a warmer work area. Verify that the evaporator
temperature is above 18.3°C (65°F). If not, set the front blower to high speed and allow the blower
to run for five minutes. Then, rerun the Cooldown Test.
Yes, Blowers Not On High - Test Not Run

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Set the front blower speed to high speed and then rerun the Cooldown Test.
Yes, No Results Stored/Test Not Complete
Verify that power is not interrupted while rerunning the Cooldown Test.
No

3) MODE SWITCH, DOOR ACTUATOR CIRCUIT, & AUXILIARY COOLANT PUMP
CIRCUIT TEST
NOTE: If at anytime a DTC becomes active during this test, proceed to the
conclusion question.
NOTE: If multiple DTCs become active, diagnose those that relate to a short
circuit first.
Set the front blower speed to low.
Set the Blend control to full cold.
Set the Mode control to Bi-Level/Recirc.
If equipped, set the Rear Fan switch on the Rear A/C Heater Control to off.
If equipped, set the Rear Blend switch on the Rear A/C Heater Control to full cold.
Monitor the scan tool for active HVAC DTCs while performing the following test steps.
Press the A/C mode switch on, wait 30 seconds, press it off, and then proceed to the next step.
Press the Rear Defrost mode switch on, wait 30 seconds, press it off, and then proceed to the next step.
Press and hold the Rear Washer mode switch for several seconds, release it, and then proceed to the next
step.
Set the Blend control to full hot, wait 30 seconds and then set it to full cold.
Turn the Mode control to every door position. Leave it in each position for 30 seconds.
If equipped, set the Rear Blower control to Rear Control.
If equipped, set the Rear Fan switch on the Rear A/C Heater Control to high speed.
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If equipped, slowly turn the Rear Blend switch on the Rear A/C Heater Control to full hot, wait 30
seconds and then turn it back to full cold.
If equipped, turn the Rear Fan switch on the Rear A/C Heater Control to off.
If equipped with rear HVAC, with the scan tool, select the following: Actuators, Auxiliary Coolant Pump,
Start, and Constant On. Allow the pump to run for approximately one minute.
Does the scan tool display any active DTCs?
Yes
HVAC related symptoms.
No
As necessary, either go to step 4) or step 5), or Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST - VER
1.
4) ACTUATOR DTC DETECTION TEST
With the scan tool, select System Tests and then select Actuator DTC Detection. When the test is
Does the scan tool display any DTCs?
Yes
Diagnose and repair the DTC(s). If multiple DTCs are present, beginning with the common
circuits, diagnose and repair all short high DTCs and then all short low DTCs. Refer to the
DIAGNOSTIC CODE INDEX for a complete list of all HVAC related symptoms.
No

5) ACTUATOR CALIBRATION TEST
Does the scan tool display any DTCs?
Yes
all HVAC related symptoms.
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No
No problem found.
Microsoft
2007 HVAC Heating & Air Conditioning - Service Information - Nitro
2007 HVAC
Heating & Air Conditioning - Service Information - Nitro
HVAC - SERVICE INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONER SYSTEM
A manual temperature control (MTC) single zone type heating-A/C system or an automatic temperature
controlled (ATC) single zone type heating-A/C system is available on this model.
To maintain the performance level of the heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) system, the engine
cooling system must be properly maintained. The use of a bug screen is not recommended. Any obstructions in
front of the radiator or A/C condenser will reduce the performance of the A/C and engine cooling systems.
The engine cooling system includes the radiator, thermostat, radiator hoses and the engine coolant pump. Refer
to COOLING for more information before opening or attempting any service to the engine cooling system.
Fig. 1: HVAC Housing Assembly

NOTE: LHD model shown. RHD model similar.
All vehicles are equipped with a common heater, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) housing assembly
(1). The heating-A/C system combines A/C, heating, and ventilating capabilities in a single HVAC housing
mounted within the passenger compartment behind the instrument panel. The HVAC housing assembly
includes:
Mode-air doors (2)

A/C evaporator (3)
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Recirculation door actuator (4)

Air inlet housing (5)
Recirculation-air door (6)
Blower motor (7)
Blower motor resistor (8)
Heater core (9)
Air distribution housing (10)
Blend-air door (11)
Blend door actuator (12
Floor distribution ducts (13)
Mode door actuator (14)
NOTE: An electric positive temperature coefficient (PTC) heater is used on vehicles

when equipped with the 2.8L diesel engine. The PTC heater unit compensates
for the lower engine coolant temperatures produced by the diesel engine. The
PTC heater unit is mounted in the HVAC air distribution housing, downstream
of the heater core. See DESCRIPTION for more information.
Based upon the mode selected, conditioned air can exit the HVAC housing through one or a combination of the
three main housing outlets: defrost, panel or floor. The defrost and panel outlets are located on the top of the
housing and the floor outlets are located on each side of the housing. Once the conditioned air exits the HVAC
housing, it is further directed through molded plastic ducts to the outlets within the vehicle interior. These
outlets and their locations are as follows:
Defroster Outlet - Dual defroster outlets are located in the center of the instrument panel top cover, near
the base of the windshield.
Side Window Demister Outlets - There are two side window demister outlets, one is located at each
outboard end of the instrument panel and are integral to the instrument panel air outlets.
Panel Outlets - There are four panel outlets in the instrument panel, one located near each outboard end
of the instrument panel facing the rear of the vehicle and two located near the top of the instrument panel
center bezel.
Front Floor Outlets - There are two front floor outlets, one located above each side of the center of the
floor panel near the dash panel.
Rear Floor Outlets - There are two rear floor outlets, one located on each side of the floor console near
the rear of each front seat.
OPERATION
HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONER SYSTEM
Both the manual temperature control (MTC) and the automatic temperature controlled (ATC) heating-A/C
systems are blend-air type systems. In a blend-air system, a blend-air door controls the amount of conditioned
air that is allowed to flow through, or around the heater core. This design allows almost immediate control of
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output air temperature.
Fig. 2: Blend Air System Schematic

NOTE: Typical blend-air type HVAC system shown.
The heating-A/C system pulls outside (ambient) air through the fresh air intake (4) located at the cowl panel at
the base of the windshield and into the air inlet housing above the heating, ventilation and air conditioning
(HVAC) housing and passes through the A/C evaporator (7). Air flow is then directed either through or around
the heater core (2). This is done by adjusting the position of the blend-air door (3) with the temperature control
located on the A/C-heater control in the instrument panel. Air flow is then directed out the floor outlet (8),
instrument panel outlet (10) or the defroster outlet (1) in various combinations by adjusting the position of the
mode-air doors (9 and 11) using the mode control located on the A/C-heater control. The temperature and mode
control uses electrical actuators to operate the air doors.
The velocity of the air flow out of the outlets can be adjusted with the blower speed control located on the A/C-
heater control.
The fresh air intake can be shut off by pressing the Recirculation button on the A/C-heater control. This will
operate the electrically actuated recirculation-air door (5), which closes off the fresh air intake. With the fresh
air intake closed, the conditioned air within the vehicle is pulled back into the HVAC housing through the
recirculation air intake (6).
The A/C compressor can be engaged by pressing the A/C (snowflake) button on the A/C-heater control when
the mode control is set in any floor to instrument panel position. The A/C compressor will automatically engage
when the mode control is set in any Mix to Defrost position. This is done to help reduce fogging of the front
windows by removing humidity from the conditioned air prior to it coming into contact with the windows.
The defroster outlet receives airflow from the HVAC housing through the molded plastic defroster duct. The
airflow from the defroster outlet is directed by fixed vanes in the defroster outlet grille and cannot be adjusted.
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The side window demister outlets receive airflow from the HVAC housing through the defroster duct and
molded plastic demister ducts which are integral to the instrument panel. The airflow from the side window
demister outlets is directed by fixed vanes in the demister outlet grilles and cannot be adjusted. The demisters
direct air from the HVAC housing through the outlets located on the top corners of the instrument panel. The
demisters operate when the mode control is positioned in the floor-defrost and defrost-only settings. Some air
may be noticeable from the demister outlets when the mode control is in the bi-level to floor positions.
The panel outlets receive airflow from the HVAC housing through the center panel duct and the two molded
plastic panel ducts, which are integral to the instrument panel. The two end ducts direct airflow to the left and
right instrument panel outlets, while the center panel duct directs airflow to the two center panel outlets. Each of
these outlets can be individually adjusted to direct the flow of air.
The floor outlets receive airflow from the HVAC housing through the floor distribution ducts. The front floor
outlets are integral to the molded plastic floor ducts, which are secured to the sides of the HVAC housing. The
floor outlets cannot be adjusted.
NOTE: It is important to keep the air intake opening clear of debris. Leaf particles and
other debris that is small enough to pass through the cowl opening screen can
accumulate within the HVAC housing. The closed, warm, damp and dark
environment created within the housing is ideal for the growth of certain molds,
mildews and other fungi. Any accumulation of decaying plant matter provides
an additional food source for fungal spores, which enter the housing with the
fresh intake-air. Excess debris, as well as objectionable odors created by
decaying plant matter and growing fungi can be discharged into the passenger
compartment during heater-A/C operation if the air intake opening is not kept
clear of debris.
This A/C system uses an A/C expansion valve to meter the flow of refrigerant to the A/C evaporator. The A/C
evaporator cools and dehumidifies the incoming air prior to blending it with the heated air. To maintain
minimum evaporator temperatures and prevent evaporator freezing, an evaporator temperature sensor is used.
The sensor is located downstream of the evaporator and supplies an evaporator temperature signal to the A/C-
heater control.
A/C PERFORMANCE
The A/C system is designed to provide the passenger compartment with low temperature and low humidity air.
The A/C evaporator, located in the HVAC housing is cooled to temperatures near the freezing point. As warm
damp air passes over the fins of the A/C evaporator, the air transfers its heat to the refrigerant in the evaporator
coils and the moisture in the air condenses on the evaporator fins. During periods of high heat and humidity, an
A/C system will be more effective in the Recirculation mode (max-A/C). With the system in the Recirculation
mode, only air from the passenger compartment passes through the A/C evaporator. As the passenger
compartment air dehumidifies, the A/C system performance levels rise.
Humidity has an important bearing on the temperature of the air delivered to the interior of the vehicle. It is
important to understand the effect that humidity has on the performance of the A/C system. When humidity is
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high, the A/C evaporator has to perform a double duty. It must lower the air temperature, and it must lower the
temperature of the moisture in the air that condenses on the evaporator fins. Condensing the moisture in the air
transfers heat energy into the evaporator fins and coils. This reduces the amount of heat the A/C evaporator can
absorb from the air. High humidity greatly reduces the ability of the A/C evaporator to lower the temperature of
the air.
However, evaporator capacity used to reduce the amount of moisture in the air is not wasted. Wringing some of
the moisture out of the air entering the vehicle adds to the comfort of the passengers. Although, an owner may
expect too much from their A/C system on humid days. A performance test is the best way to determine
whether the system is performing up to design standards. This test also provides valuable clues as to the
possible cause of trouble with the A/C system. The ambient air temperature in the location where the vehicle
will be tested must be a minimum of 21°C (70°F) for this test.
A/C PERFORMANCE TEST
WARNING: Refer to the applicable warnings and cautions for this system before
performing the following operation. See WARNING, and CAUTION. Failure
to follow the warnings and cautions could result in possible serious or
fatal injury.
CAUTION: The use of an A/C recycling/charging station for purposes of determining

the actual charge level of an A/C system is not recommend. Service
recycling/charging stations do not reflect the correct amount of refrigerant
charge in the A/C system after a single "reclaim" cycle. Tests have shown
that it takes up to 3 or 4 "reclaim" cycles to remove all of the refrigerant
charge. Use only the following procedure for determining the proper
charge level.
NOTE: When connecting the service equipment coupling to the line fitting, verify that
the valve of the coupling is fully closed. This will reduce the amount of effort
required to make the connection.
1. Check for diagnostic trouble codes using a scan tool. If no DTCs are found in the powertrain control
module (PCM) or engine control module (ECM), depending on engine application, go to step 2
2. Connect a tachometer and a manifold gauge set or an A/C recycling/charging station.
3. Operate the heating-A/C system under the following conditions.
Engine at 1,000 RPM at operating temperature
Door or windows open
Transmission in Park or Neutral with parking brake set (depending on transmission application)
A/C-heater controls set to Recirculation mode (max-A/C), full cool, panel mode, high blower and
with A/C compressor engaged. If the A/C compressor does not engage, see the A/C System
Diagnosis chart.
4. Insert a thermometer in the driver side center panel air outlet and operate the vehicle a minimum of ten
minutes to allow the thermometer temperature to stabilize.
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5. With the A/C compressor clutch engaged, compare the air temperature at the center panel outlet and the
A/C compressor discharge pressure (high side) to the A/C Performance Temperature and Pressure chart.
The compressor clutch may cycle, depending upon the ambient temperature and humidity. If the clutch
cycles, use the readings obtained before the clutch disengaged.
A/C PERFORMANCE TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE

Ambient Air 21°C 27°C 32°C 38°C 43°C
Temperature (70°F) (80°F) (90°F) (100°F) (110°F)
Air Temperature
7°C 7°C 13°C 13°C 18°C
at Center Panel
(45°F) (45°F) (55°F) (55°F) (64°F)
Outlet
Compressor 138 to 207 172 to 241 207 to 276 241 to 310 276 to 345
Inlet Pressure at kPa kPa kPa kPa kPa
Service Port (20 to 30 (25 to 35 (30 to 40 (35 to 45 (40 to 50
(Low Side) psi) psi) psi) psi) psi)
Condenser 1034 to 1379 to 1724 to 1999 to 2413 to
Outlet Pressure 1724 kPa 2068 kPa 2413 kPa 2689 kPa 2965 kPa
at Service Port (150 to 250 (200 to 300 (250 to 350 (290 to 390 (350 to 430
(High Side) psi) psi) psi) psi) psi)
6. If the air outlet temperature fails to meet the specifications in the A/C Performance Temperature and
Pressure chart, or if the A/C compressor discharge pressure is high, refer to the A/C System Diagnosis
chart.
A/C SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS

Rapid A/C clutch cycling 1. Low refrigerant system 1. See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM LEAKS.
(ten or more cycles per charge. Test the refrigerant system for leaks. Repair,
minute). evacuate and charge the refrigerant system as
required.
Equal pressures, but the A/C 1. No refrigerant in the 1. See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM LEAKS.
clutch does not engage. refrigerant system. Test the refrigerant system for leaks. Repair,
evacuate and charge the refrigerant system as
required.
2. Open fuse. 2. Check the fuses in the power distribution
center and the junction block. Repair the
shorted circuit or component and replace the
fuses as required.
3. Inoperative A/C clutch 3. See A/C Compressor Clutch in this group.
field coil. Test the A/C clutch field coil and replace as
required.
4. Inoperative A/C clutch 4. See CLUTCH-A/C COMPRESSOR . Test
relay. the A/C clutch relay and relay circuits. Repair
the circuits or replace the relay as required.
5. Improperly installed or 5. See TRANSDUCER-A/C PRESSURE.
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inoperative A/C pressure Test the A/C pressure transducer and tighten
transducer. or replace as required.
6. Inoperative evaporator 6. See SENSOR-EVAPORATOR
temperature sensor. TEMPERATURE . Test the evaporator
temperature sensor and replace as required.
7. Inoperative powertrain 7. Refer to the proper Diagnostic article for
control module (PCM) or testing of the PCM or ECM. Test the PCM or
engine control module ECM and replace as required.
(ECM), depending on
engine application.
Normal pressures, but A/C 1. Excessive refrigerant oil1. See REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL .
Performance Test air in system. Recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant
temperatures at center panel system and inspect the refrigerant oil content.
outlet are too high. Restore the refrigerant oil to the proper level
as required.
2. Blend door actuator 2. See ACTUATOR-BLEND DOOR .
improperly installed or Inspect the actuator for proper operation and
inoperative. replace as required.
3. Blend-air door 3. See HOUSING-HVAC . Inspect the blend-
inoperative or sealing air door for proper operation and sealing and
improperly. correct as required.
The low side pressure is 1. Low refrigerant system 1. See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM LEAKS .
normal or slightly low, and charge. Test the refrigerant system for leaks. Repair,
the high side pressure is too evacuate and charge the refrigerant system as
low. required.
2. Refrigerant flow through 2. See EVAPORATOR-A/C . Replace the
the A/C accumulator is restricted accumulator as required.
restricted.
3. Refrigerant flow through 3. See EVAPORATOR-A/C . Replace the
the A/C evaporator is restricted A/C evaporator as required.
restricted.
4. Inoperative A/C 4. See COMPRESSOR-A/C . Replace the
compressor. A/C compressor as required.
The low side pressure is 1. A/C Condenser air flow 1. Check the A/C condenser for damaged fins,
normal or slightly high, and restricted. foreign objects obstructing air flow through
the high side pressure is too the condenser fins, and missing or improperly
high. installed air seals. Clean, repair, or replace
components as required.
2. Inoperative radiator 2. Test the radiator cooling fan and replace as
cooling fan. required. Refer to Group 7.
3. Refrigerant system 3. See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM
overcharged. CHARGE . Recover the refrigerant from the
refrigerant system. Charge the refrigerant
system to the proper level as required.
4. Air in the refrigerant 4. See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM LEAKS
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system. to test the refrigerant system for leaks. Repair,

evacuate and charge the refrigerant system as
required.
5. Engine overheating. 5. Test the engine cooling system and repair, if
required. Refer to COOLING .
The low side pressure is too 1. Accessory drive belt 1. Inspect the accessory drive belt condition
high, and the high side slipping. and tension. Replace the accessory drive belt
pressure is too low. and/or tensioner as required. Refer to
COOLING .
2. Inoperative A/C 2. See VALVE-A/C EXPANSION . Test the
expansion valve. expansion valve and replace as required.
3. Inoperative A/C 3. See COMPRESSOR-A/C . Replace the
compressor. A/C compressor as required.
The low side pressure is too 1. Restricted refrigerant 1. See LINE-A/C LIQUID, LINE-A/C
low, and the high side flow through the refrigerant SUCTION and LINE-A/C DISCHARGE.
pressure is too high. lines. Inspect the refrigerant lines for kinks, tight
bends or improper routing. Correct the routing
or replace the refrigerant line as required.
2. Restricted refrigerant 2. See VALVE-A/C EXPANSION . Test the
flow through the A/C expansion valve and replace as required.
expansion valve.
3. Restricted refrigerant 3. See CONDENSER-A/C . Replace the
flow through the A/C restricted condenser as required.
condenser.
HEATER PERFORMANCE
Before performing the following tests, refer to COOLING for the procedures to check the engine coolant level
and flow, engine coolant reserve/recovery system operation, accessory drive belt condition and tension, radiator
air flow and the fan drive operation.
WARNING: Do not remove radiator cap when engine is hot, personal injury can result.
If vehicle has been run recently, wait 15 minutes before removing the radiator cap. Place a rag over the cap and
turn it to the first safety stop. Allow pressure to escape through the overflow tube. When the system pressure
stabilizes, remove the cap completely.
MAXIMUM HEATER OUTPUT
Engine coolant is delivered to the heater core through two heater hoses. With the engine idling at normal
operating temperature, set the temperature control to the full hot position, the mode control to the floor position,
and the blower motor control to the highest speed position. Using a test thermometer, check the temperature of
the air being discharged at the front floor outlets. Compare the test thermometer reading to the Heater
Temperature Reference chart.
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HEATER TEMPERATURE REFERENCE

16°C 21°C 26°C 32°C
Ambient Air Temperature
(60°F) (70°F) (80°F) (90°F)
Minimum Air Temperature 52°C 56°C 59°C 62°C
at Floor Outlet (125°F) (133°F) (139°F) (144°F)
If the heater outlet air temperature is below the minimum specification, refer to COOLING . Both of the heater
hoses should be hot to the touch. The coolant return heater hose should be slightly cooler than the coolant
supply heater hose. If the return hose is much cooler than the supply hose, locate and repair the engine coolant
flow obstruction in the cooling system (refer to COOLING for more information).
OBSTRUCTED COOLANT FLOW
Possible locations or causes of obstructed coolant flow are as follows:
Inoperative water pump.

Inoperative thermostat.
Pinched or kinked heater hoses.
Improper heater hose routing.
Plugged heater hoses or supply and return ports at the cooling system connections.
Plugged heater core.
If proper coolant flow through the cooling system is verified, and heater outlet air temperature is low, a
mechanical problem may exist.
MECHANICAL PROBLEMS
Possible causes of insufficient heat due to mechanical problems are as follows:
Obstructed cowl air intake.

Obstructed heater system outlets.
Inoperative engine thermostat.
Inoperative blower motor system.
Inoperative A/C-heater control.
Inoperative blend door actuator.
Inoperative, obstructed or improperly installed blend-air door.
TEMPERATURE CONTROL
If the heater outlet air temperature cannot be adjusted with the temperature control on the A/C-heater control,
the following could require service:
Inoperative A/C-heater control.

Inoperative blend door actuator.
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Inoperative, obstructed or improperly installed blend-air door.

Inoperative related wiring harness or connectors.
Improper engine coolant temperature.
SPECIFICATIONS
A/C SYSTEM
Item Description Notes

A/C Compressor Zexel DKS-17DS (2.8L/4.0L VC-46 PAG oil
engines)
Visteon HS-18 (3.7L engine) VC-46 PAG oil
Freeze-up Control Evaporator temperature sensor Input to A/C-heater control.
HVAC housing mounted.
Pressure Control A/C pressure transducer Input to PCM/ECM. A/C liquid
line mounted. Cycles clutch off if
refrigerant pressure falls below
206 kPa (30 psi) or rises above
2971 kPa (431 psi)
Also see A/C Underhood
R-134a Refrigerant Charge
0.510 kg (1.12 lbs.) Specification Label located in the
Capacity
engine compartment.
A/C Clutch Coil Draw 3.3 amps @ 12V ± 0.5V @ 25°C 2.8L and 4.0L engines. A/C clutch
(77°F) field coil resistance when
measured across coil lead
connector is 4.02 ± 0.2 ohms @
25°C (77°F).
3.1 - 4 amps @ 12V ± 0.5V @ 21°
3.7L engine.
C (70°F)
A/C Clutch Air Gap 0.30 - 0.60 mm (0.012 - 0.024 in.) 2.8L and 4.0L engines.
0.35 - 0.65 mm (0.014 - 0.025 in.) 3.7L engine.
FASTENER TORQUE
Description N.m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.

All Screws NOT Listed
1.2 - 10
Below
A/C Compressor Bolts
28 21 -
(2.8L and 4.0L Engines)
A/C Compressor Rear
55 - 41
Bolts (3.7L Engine)
A/C Compressor Front
Inboard Bolt (3.7L 40 - 30
Engine)
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A/C Compressor Front

Outboard Bolt (3.7L 55 - 41
Engine)
A/C Compressor Bracket
to Front Cover Bolt (3.7L 40 - 30
Engine)
A/C Compressor Field
Coil Connector Bracket 4.3 - 38
Screw (3.7L Engine)
A/C Compressor Clutch
Hub Bolt (2.8L and 4.0L 15 - 133
Engines)
A/C Compressor Clutch
20 - 177
Hub Bolt (3.7L Engine)
A/C Condenser to
5 - 44
Radiator Bolt
A/C Expansion Valve to
Evaporator Tube Tapping 11 - 97
Block Bolts
Discharge Line to A/C
22.5 - 200
Condenser Nut
HVAC Housing to
Engine Side of Dash 4.5 - 40
Panel Nut
HVAC Housing to
Passenger Side of Dash 4.5 - 40
Panel Nuts
Suction Line Brackets to
Engine Nuts (LHD 2.8L 4.5 - 40
model)
Receiver/drier to A/C
22 16 -
Condenser Bolt
Refrigerant Lines to A/C
23 17 -
Expansion Valve Nut
Refrigerant Lines to A/C
12 - 105
Compressor Nuts
SPECIAL TOOLS
HEATING-A/C SYSTEM
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Fig. 3: Trim Stick C-4755

Fig. 4: A/C Line Disconnect Tools 7193

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Fig. 5: Compressor Field Coil Installer 9352

Fig. 6: Compressor Field Coil Installer Spacer 9353

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Fig. 7: Compressor Field Coil Remover 9354

Fig. 8: Clutch Pulley Installer 9355

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Fig. 9: Snap Ring Pliers 9764

CONTROLS
ACTUATOR-BLEND DOOR
DESCRIPTION
ACTUATOR-BLEND DOOR
Fig. 10: Identifying Blend Door Actuator, Integral Wire Connector Receptacle, Integral Mounting Tabs
& Output Shaft
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The heating-A/C system uses a reversible, 12-volt direct current (DC) servo motor which mechanically
positions the blend-air door. The blend door actuator (1) is located on the driver side of the HVAC housing.
The blend door actuator is interchangeable with the actuators for the mode-air doors and the recirculation-air
door. Each actuator is contained within a black molded plastic housing with an integral wire connector
receptacle (2) and integral mounting tabs (3) that allow the actuator to be secured to the HVAC housing. The
blend door actuator output shaft (4) is connected to the linkage that drives the blend-air door. The blend door
actuator does not require mechanical indexing to the blend-air door, as it is electronically calibrated by the A/C-
heater control.
OPERATION
ACTUATOR-BLEND DOOR
The blend door actuator is connected to the A/C-heater control through the vehicle electrical system by a
dedicated two-wire lead and connector of the HVAC wire harness. The blend door actuator can move the blend-
air door in two directions. When the A/C-heater control pulls the voltage on one side of the motor connection
high and the other connection low, the blend-air door will move in one direction. When the A/C-heater control
reverses the polarity of the voltage to the motor, the blend-air door moves in the opposite direction. When the
A/C-heater control makes the voltage to both connections high or both connections low, the blend-air door stops
and will not move.
The A/C-heater control uses a pulse-count positioning system to monitor the operation and relative position of
the blend door actuator and the blend-air door. The A/C-heater control learns the blend-air door stop positions
during the actuator calibration procedure and will store a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for any problems it
detects in the blend door actuator circuits (refer to HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - ELECTRICAL
DIAGNOSTICS for more information).
The blend door actuator cannot be adjusted or repaired and must be replaced if found inoperative or damaged.
REMOVAL
ACTUATOR-BLEND DOOR
and isolate the negative battery (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for
system. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in accidental
airbag deployment and possible personal injury or death.
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Fig. 11: Identifying Actuator Mounting Bracket, Blend Door Actuator, Wire Harness Connector, Air
Distribution Housing & Screws

2. If equipped, remove the silencer from below the driver side of the instrument panel. Refer to
REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect the wire harness connector (3) from the blend door actuator (2) located on the driver side of
the air distribution housing (4).
4. Remove the two screws (5) that secure the blend door actuator to the actuator mounting bracket (1) and
remove the actuator.
INSTALLATION
ACTUATOR-BLEND DOOR
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Fig. 12: Identifying Actuator Mounting Bracket, Blend Door Actuator, Wire Harness Connector, Air
Distribution Housing & Screws
1. Position the blend door actuator (4) to the actuator mounting bracket (1) located on the driver side of the
air distribution housing (4). Make sure the actuator output shaft is properly aligned to the door linkage. If
necessary, rotate the actuator slightly to align the splines on the output shaft with those in the door
linkage.
2. Install the two screws (5) that secure the blend door actuator to the actuator mounting bracket. Tighten the
screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.).
3. Connect the wire harness connector (3) to the blend door actuator.
4. If equipped, install the silencer below the driver side of the instrument panel. Refer to
INSTALLATION .
6. Initiate the Actuator Calibration function using a scan tool. See *HVAC SYSTEM TEST .
ACTUATOR-MODE DOOR
DESCRIPTION
ACTUATOR-MODE DOOR
& Output Shaft
positions the mode-air door. The mode door actuator (1) is located on the driver side of the HVAC housing.
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The mode door actuator is interchangeable with the actuators for the blend-air door and the recirculation-air
mode door actuator output shaft (4) is connected to the linkage that drives the mode-air door. The mode door
actuator does not require mechanical indexing to the mode-air doors, as it is electronically calibrated by the
A/C-heater control.
OPERATION
ACTUATOR-MODE DOOR
The mode door actuator is connected to the A/C-heater control through the vehicle electrical system by a
dedicated two-wire lead and connector of the HVAC wire harness. The mode door actuator can move the floor,
defrost/demist and the panel-air doors in two directions. When the A/C-heater control pulls the voltage on one
side of the motor connection high and the other connection low, the mode-air doors will move in one direction.
When the A/C-heater control reverses the polarity of the voltage to the motor, the mode-air doors moves in the
opposite direction. When the A/C-heater control makes the voltage to both connections high or both
connections low, the mode-air doors stop and will not move.
the mode door actuator and the mode-air doors. The A/C-heater control learns the mode-air doors stop position
during the actuator calibration procedure and will store a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for any problems it
detects in the mode door actuator circuits (refer to HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - ELECTRICAL
The mode door actuator cannot be adjusted or repaired and must be replaced if found inoperative or damaged.
REMOVAL
ACTUATOR-MODE DOOR
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Fig. 14: Identifying Screws, Mode Door Actuator, Wire Harness Connector, Actuator Mounting Bracket
& Air Distribution Housing

REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect the wire harness connector (3) from the mode door actuator (2) located on the driver side of
4. Remove the two screws (1) that secure the mode door actuator to the actuator mounting bracket (4) and
INSTALLATION
ACTUATOR-MODE DOOR
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Fig. 15: Identifying Screws, Mode Door Actuator, Wire Harness Connector, Actuator Mounting Bracket
& Air Distribution Housing
1. Position the mode door actuator (2) to the actuator mounting bracket (4) located on the driver side of the
air distribution housing (5). Make sure the actuator output shaft is properly aligned to the door linkage. If
necessary, rotate the actuator slightly to align the splines on the output shaft with those in the mode door
linkage
2. Install the two screws (1) that secure the mode door actuator to the actuator mounting bracket. Tighten the
3. Connect the wire harness connector (3) to the mode door actuator.
INSTALLATION .
ACTUATOR-RECIRCULATION DOOR
DESCRIPTION
& Output Shaft
positions the recirculation-air door. The recirculation door actuator (1) is located on the side of the HVAC air
inlet housing.
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The recirculation door actuator is interchangeable with the actuators for the blend-air door and the mode-air
recirculation door actuator output shaft (4) is directly connected to the pivot shaft lever of the recirculation-air
door. The recirculation door actuator does not require mechanical indexing to the recirculation-air door, as it is
electronically calibrated by the A/C-heater control.
OPERATION
The recirculation door actuator is connected to the A/C-heater control through the vehicle electrical system by a
dedicated two-wire lead and connector of the HVAC wire harness. The recirculation door actuator can move the
recirculation-air door in two directions. When the A/C-heater control pulls the voltage on one side of the motor
connection high and the other connection low, the recirculation-air door will move in one direction. When the
A/C-heater control reverses the polarity of the voltage to the motor, the recirculation-air door moves in the
opposite direction. When the A/C-heater control makes the voltage to both connections high or both
connections low, the recirculation-air door stops and will not move.
the recirculation door actuator and the recirculation-air door. The A/C-heater control learns the recirculation-air
door stop positions during the actuator calibration procedure and will store a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for
any problems it detects in the recirculation door actuator circuits (refer to HEATING & AIR
The recirculation door actuator cannot be adjusted or repaired and must be replaced if found inoperative or
damaged.
REMOVAL
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Fig. 17: Recirculation Door Actuator, Screws & Air Inlet Housing

2. On LHD models, remove the glove box bin. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. On RHD models, remove the instrument panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Remove the two screws (2) that secure the recirculation door actuator (1) to the air inlet housing (3).
5. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the recirculation door actuator and remove the actuator from
the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 18: Recirculation Door Actuator, Screws & Air Inlet Housing
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1. Connect the wire harness connector to the recirculation door actuator (1).
2. Position the recirculation door actuator to the side of the air inlet housing (3). Make sure the actuator
output shaft is properly aligned to the recirculation door pivot shaft. If necessary, rotate the actuator
slightly to engage the splines on the output shaft with those in the pivot shaft.
3. Install the two screws (2) that secure the recirculation door actuator to the air inlet housing. Tighten the
4. On RHD models, install the instrument panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
5. On LHD models, install the glove box bin. Refer to INSTALLATION .
CLUTCH-A/C COMPRESSOR
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 19: Bolt, Clutch Plate, Pulley Assembly, Stationary Electromagnetic Field Coil, Snap Ring & Shims
The A/C system on models equipped with the 2.8L and 4.0L engine use a Zexel DKS-17DS A/C compressor.
The clutch assembly for this A/C compressor consists of a stationary electromagnetic field coil (4), bearing and
pulley assembly (3), shims (6), and a clutch plate (2) that is splined to the compressor shaft and secured by a
bolt (1). These components provide the means to engage and disengage the A/C compressor from the engine
accessory drive belt.
The A/C clutch field coil is pressed onto the front of this A/C compressor and cannot be serviced separately
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from the compressor. The A/C clutch bearing and pulley assembly is retained to the front of the compressor by
a snap ring (5) and can be serviced separately.
Fig. 20: Bolt, Clutch Plate, Pulley Assembly, Stationary Electromagnetic Field Coil, Snap Ring & Shims
The A/C system on models equipped with the 3.7L engine use the Visteon HS-18 A/C compressor. The clutch
assembly for this A/C compressor consists of a stationary electromagnetic field coil (4), bearing and pulley
assembly (3), shims (7), and a clutch plate (2) that is splined to the compressor shaft and secured by a bolt (1).
These components provide the means to engage and disengage the A/C compressor from the engine accessory
drive belt.
The A/C clutch field coil is pressed onto the front of this A/C compressor and retained with a snap ring (6). The
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A/C clutch bearing and pulley assembly is also retained to the front of this compressor by a snap ring (5). Both
the A/C clutch bearing and pulley assembly and the field coil can be serviced separately.
OPERATION
The A/C compressor clutch components provide the means to engage and disengage the A/C compressor from
the engine accessory drive belt. When the electromagnetic A/C clutch field coil is energized, it magnetically
draws the clutch plate into contact with the clutch pulley and drives the compressor shaft. When the coil is not
energized, the pulley freewheels on the clutch hub bearing, which is part of the pulley assembly.
A/C compressor clutch engagement is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) or the engine control
module (ECM), depending on engine application. When the A/C-heater control is set to any A/C position, it
sends a request signal on the CAN-B bus to the totally integrated power module (TIPM), which then transfers
the request on the CAN-C Bus to the PCM/ECM, which determines if operating conditions are correct for A/C
clutch engagement. When all operating conditions have been met, the PCM/ECM sends a signal on a dedicated
hard-wired circuit back to the totally integrated power module (TIPM) to energize the internal A/C clutch high
side driver. When energized, the A/C clutch high side driver provides battery current to the A/C clutch field
coil.
The A/C clutch control system is diagnosed using a scan tool (refer to HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING -
ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS and to appropriate Engine ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS article for more
information).
The A/C compressor clutch components cannot be adjusted or repaired and must be replaced if found
inoperative or damaged.
The A/C compressor clutch coil electrical circuit is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) or the
engine control module (ECM) (depending on engine application) through the totally integrated power module
(TIPM). See OPERATION. Begin testing of a suspected compressor clutch coil problem by performing the
preliminary checks.
PRELIMINARY CHECKS
1. Using a scan tool, check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in the A/C-heater control, TIPM and the
PCM/ECM. If no DTCs are found, go to step 2. If any DTCs are found, repair as required.
2. If the A/C compressor clutch still will not engage, verify the refrigerant charge level. See
REFRIGERANT SYSTEM LEAKS. If the refrigerant charge level is OK, go to step 3. If the refrigerant
charge level is not OK, adjust the refrigerant charge as required.
3. If the A/C compressor clutch still will not engage, disconnect the wire harness connector from the A/C
pressure transducer and check for battery current at the connector with the engine running and the A/C-
heater control set to the A/C mode. If OK, go to step COIL CURRENT DRAW TEST, and/or step
COIL RESISTANCE TEST - 2.8L AND 4.0L ENGINES ONLY.
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COIL CURRENT DRAW TEST
1. Verify the battery state of charge. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .

2. Connect an ammeter (0 to 10 ampere scale selected) in series with the clutch field coil feed terminal.
Connect a voltmeter (0 to 20 volt scale selected) to measure voltage across the battery and the clutch coil.
3. With the A/C-heater control in the A/C mode and the blower motor at low speed, start the engine and
allow it to run at a normal idle speed.
4. The A/C clutch should engage immediately, and the clutch field coil supply voltage should be within two
volts of the battery voltage. If the field coil supply voltage is OK, go to step 5. If the field coil supply
voltage is not within two volts of battery voltage, test the clutch field coil feed circuit for excessive
voltage drop and repair as necessary.
5. Refer to the following A/C Clutch Field Coil Specifications chart for the acceptable A/C clutch field coil
current draw. If voltage is more than 12.5 volts, add electrical loads by turning on electrical accessories
until voltage reads below 12.5 volts.
 If the A/C clutch field coil current reading is zero, the coil is open and must be replaced.
 If the A/C clutch field coil current reading is above specifications, the coil is shorted and must be
replaced.
COIL RESISTANCE TEST - 2.8L AND 4.0L ENGINES ONLY

2. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the A/C clutch field coil connector.
3. Use an ohmmeter and measure the resistance of the clutch field coil at the field coil connector terminals.
4. Refer to the following A/C Clutch Field Coil Specifications chart for the acceptable A/C clutch coil
resistance.
 If the A/C clutch coil resistance reading is above specifications, the coil is shorted and must be
replaced.
 If the A/C clutch coil resistance reading is below specifications, the coil is open and must be
replaced.
A/C CLUTCH FIELD COIL SPECIFICATIONS

A/C Compressor Current Draw Coil Resistance
Zexel DKS-17DS (2.8L/4.0L 3.3 amps @ 12V ± 0.5V @ 25°C 4.02 ± 0.2 ohms @ 25°C (77°F)
engines) (77°F)
3.1 - 4 amps @ 12V ± 0.5V @ 21°
Visteon HS-18 (3.7L engine) Not applicable
C (70°F)
STANDARD PROCEDURE
NOTE: The A/C clutch can be serviced in the vehicle. The refrigerant system can
remain fully-charged during compressor clutch, pulley and bearing assembly,
or coil replacement.
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Fig. 21: Identifying Compressor Shaft, Clutch Plate & Shim

Examine the friction surfaces of the pulley and the clutch plate (2) for wear. The pulley and clutch plate should
be replaced if there is excessive wear or scoring.
If the friction surfaces are oily, inspect the shaft and nose area of the A/C compressor (1) for refrigerant oil. If
refrigerant oil is found, the compressor shaft seal is leaking and the A/C compressor must be replaced.
Check the pulley bearing for roughness or excessive leakage of grease. Replace the pulley and bearing
assembly, if required.
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After a new A/C compressor clutch has been installed, cycle the compressor clutch approximately 20 times (5
seconds on, then 5 seconds off). During this procedure, set the A/C-heater controls to the A/C Recirculation
Mode, the blower motor in the highest speed position, and the engine speed at 1500 to 2000 RPM. This
procedure (burnishing) will seat the opposing friction surfaces and provide a higher compressor clutch torque
capability.
REMOVAL
NOTE: The compressor clutch plate and pulley and bearing assembly and can be
serviced with the refrigerant system fully-charged and with the A/C compressor
installed on the engine.
NOTE: Typical A/C compressor and clutch assembly shown in illustrations.
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Fig. 22: Compressor Clutch Field Coil Connector, Connector Bracket, Compressor Shaft Bolt, Clutch
Plate & A/C Compressor

2. Remove the coolant recovery container from the front of the engine compartment. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the radiator fan and shroud assembly. Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Remove the accessory drive belt. Refer to REMOVAL .
5. Disconnect the engine wire harness from the compressor clutch field coil connector (1) located on the top
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of the A/C compressor (5).

6. Remove the screw that secures the connector bracket (2) to the A/C compressor and position the bracket
and wire lead out of the way.
NOTE: A band-type oil filter wrench or a strap wrench may be used to hold the
clutch plate from turning during compressor shaft bolt removal.
7. Hold the clutch plate (4) from turning and remove the compressor shaft bolt (3).

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CAUTION: Do not pry between the clutch plate and the pulley and bearing
assembly to remove the clutch plate from the compressor shaft as
this may damage the clutch plate.
NOTE: Use care not to lose any clutch shim(s) during removal of the clutch plate,
as they may be reused during the clutch plate installation process.
8. Tap the clutch plate (2) lightly with a plastic mallet to release it from the splines on the compressor shaft
(1) and remove the clutch plate and shim(s) (3).
Fig. 24: Using Snap Ring Pliers 9764 Or Equivalent To Remove/Install Snap Ring That Secures
Pulley And Bearing Assembly To Front Of A/C Compressor
NOTE: The pulley and bearing assembly can be removed from the compressor by
hand or, if required, with a two jaw puller.
9. Using Snap Ring Pliers 9764 or equivalent (1), remove the snap ring (2) that secures the pulley and
bearing assembly (3) to the front of the A/C compressor (4).
10. Remove the pulley and bearing assembly from the front of the A/C compressor. If required, install a two
jaw puller and turn the puller center-bolt clockwise until the pulley and bearing assembly is completely
removed.
NOTE: The compressor clutch assembly can be serviced with the refrigerant system
fully-charged.
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Fig. 25: Strap Wrench, Bolt, Clutch Plate, A/C Compressor & Clutch Field Coil Connector

3. Disconnect the engine wire harness from the clutch field coil connector (5)
4. Remove the bolts that secure the A/C compressor (4) to the mounting bracket. See REMOVAL.
5. Remove the A/C compressor from the mounting bracket and support the compressor while servicing the
clutch.
6. Using a strap wrench (1), remove the bolt (2) that secures the clutch plate (3) to the compressor shaft.
NOTE: The clutch plate can be removed from the compressor shaft by hand or, if
required, pressed off with an 8 x 1.25 mm bolt.
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NOTE: Clutch plate shim(s) may remain inside the hub of the clutch plate. Be sure
to remove all of the shims from inside the hub or from the end of the
compressor shaft.
7. Remove the clutch plate and shim(s) from the A/C compressor. If required, install a 8 x 1.25 mm bolt into
the center of the clutch plate and turn the bolt clockwise until the clutch plate is completely removed from
the A/C compressor.
Fig. 26: Using Snap Ring Pliers To Remove/Install Snap Ring That Secures Pulley And Bearing
Assembly To Front Of A/C Compressor
8. Using snap ring pliers (Special Tool 9764 or equivalent) (1), remove the snap ring (2) that secures the
pulley and bearing assembly (3) to the front of the A/C compressor (4).
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Fig. 27: Bearing Assembly, A/C Compressor & Jaw Puller

NOTE: The pulley and bearing assembly can be removed from the compressor by
hand or, if required, with a two jaw puller.
9. Remove the pulley and bearing assembly (1) from the front of the A/C compressor (2). If required, install
a two jaw puller (3) and turn the puller center-bolt clockwise until the pulley and bearing assembly is
completely removed.
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Fig. 28: Screw, Clutch Field Coil Wire Lead Bracket & A/C Compressor
10. Remove the screw (1) that secures the clutch field coil wire lead bracket (2) to the A/C compressor (3).
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Fig. 29: Using Compressor Field Coil Remover And Two Jaw Puller To Remove Clutch Field Coil
From Front Of A/C Compressor
11. Using compressor field coil remover (Special Tool 9354 in Kit 9349) (1) and a two jaw puller (2), remove
the clutch field coil (3) from the front of the A/C compressor (4).
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 30: A/C Clutch Field Coil, A/C Compressor, Jaw Puller, Compressor Field Coil Installer &
Compressor Field Coil Installer Spacer
1. Position the A/C clutch field coil (1) squarely onto the front of the A/C compressor (2).
CAUTION: Position the A/C clutch field coil so that the coil positioning tabs and
the wire harness lead are oriented in the correct direction. Failure to
correctly position the field coil on the A/C compressor will result in
field coil damage.
2. Align the field coil positioning tabs to the recessed area at the front of the A/C compressor and install the
clutch field coil onto the compressor using a two jaw puller (3), compressor field coil installer (Special
Tool 9352 in Kit 9349) (4) and the compressor field coil installer spacer (Special Tool 9353 in Kit 9349)
(5).
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Fig. 31: Screw, Clutch Field Coil Wire Lead Bracket & A/C Compressor
3. Position the clutch field coil wire lead and bracket (2) to the A/C compressor (3) and install the screw (1)
that secures the bracket to the compressor. Tighten the screw to 4 N.m (35 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 32: Using Clutch Pulley Installer And Hammer To Install Pulley And Bearing Assembly Onto
Front Of A/C Compressor
4. Align the pulley and bearing assembly (1) squarely onto the front of the A/C compressor (2).
NOTE: A distinct change of sound during the clutch pulley tapping process
indicates that the pulley and bearing assembly has bottomed out against
the compressor housing.
5. Using clutch pulley installer (Special Tool 9355 in Kit 9349) (3) and a hammer (4), install the pulley and
bearing assembly onto the front of the A/C compressor. Tap the installer with a hammer until the pulley
and bearing assembly has bottomed against the compressor housing.
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Fig. 33: Using Snap Ring Pliers To Remove/Install Snap Ring That Secures Pulley And Bearing
Assembly To Front Of A/C Compressor
CAUTION: If the snap ring is not fully seated in the groove it will vibrate out,
resulting in clutch failure and severe damage to the A/C compressor.
NOTE: Install the snap ring with the beveled side of the snap ring facing outward.
6. Using snap ring pliers (Special Tool 9764 or equivalent) (1), install the snap ring (2) that secures the
pulley and bearing assembly (3) to the front of the A/C compressor (4). Make sure the snap ring is
properly seated in the groove.
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Fig. 34: Using Strap Wrench To Install Bolt That Secures Clutch Plate To A/C Compressor
7. Verify that there is adequate clearance for the clutch field coil wire lead (1) between the housing of the
A/C compressor (2) and the pulley and bearing assembly (3).
NOTE: When installing an original or a new clutch assembly, try the original
shims first. When installing a clutch onto a compressor that previously did
not have a clutch, use the 1.0, 0.50 and 0.13 millimeter (0.040, 0.020 and
0.005 inch) shims from the clutch hardware package which is provided
with the new clutch.
8. Install the clutch shims onto the compressor shaft.

9. Using a strap wrench (4), install the bolt (5) that secures the clutch plate (6) to the A/C compressor. Hold
the clutch plate stationary with the strap wrench and tighten the bolt to 15 N.m (133 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 35: Wire Gauges, Clutch Plate & Bearing Assembly

10. Using 90° wire gauges (1), check the air gap between the clutch plate (2) and the pulley and bearing
assembly (3). If the air gap is not between 0.35 to 0.65 millimeter (0.014 to 0.025 inch), add or subtract
shims as required.
11. Position the A/C compressor onto the mounting bracket.
12. Install the bolts that secure the A/C compressor to the mounting bracket. See INSTALLATION.
13. Connect the engine wire harness to the compressor clutch field coil connector.
14. Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to INSTALLATION ).
16. Perform the Clutch Break-in Procedure. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
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NOTE: Typical A/C compressor and clutch assembly shown in illustrations.
Fig. 36: Installing Pulley And Bearing Assembly Onto Front Of A/C Compressor
CAUTION: Be certain to position the compressor clutch field coil wire lead so that it
is not damaged during A/C compressor pulley and bearing installation.
CAUTION: When installing the pulley and bearing assembly, DO NOT mar the friction
surfaces of the pulley or premature failure of the clutch will result.
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1. Install the pulley and bearing assembly (1) onto the front of the A/C compressor. If necessary, tap the
pulley gently with a block of wood (2) placed on the pulley friction surface.
Fig. 37: Using Snap Ring Pliers 9764 Or Equivalent To Remove/Install Snap Ring That Secures
Pulley And Bearing Assembly To Front Of A/C Compressor
CAUTION: The snap ring must be fully and properly seated in the groove or it
will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch failure and severe damage to the
A/C compressor.
NOTE: A new snap ring must be used to secure the pulley and bearing assembly
to the A/C compressor. The bevel side of the snap ring must face outward.
2. Using Snap Ring Pliers 9764 or equivalent (1), install the snap ring (2) that secures the pulley and bearing
assembly (3) to the front of the A/C compressor (4). Be certain that the snap ring is fully and properly
seated in the groove.
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3. If the original clutch plate (2) and pulley and bearing assembly are to be reused, reinstall the original shim
(s) (3) onto the compressor shaft (1). If a new clutch plate and pulley and bearing assembly are being
used, install a trial stack of shims 1.50 mm (0.059 in.) thick onto the compressor shaft.
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Fig. 39: Compressor Clutch Field Coil Connector, Connector Bracket, Compressor Shaft Bolt,
Clutch Plate & A/C Compressor
4. Install the clutch plate (4) onto the front of the A/C compressor (5).
5. Install the compressor shaft bolt (3). Tighten the bolt to 20 N.m (177 in. lbs.).
NOTE: The shims may compress after tightening the shaft bolt. Check the air gap
in four or more places to verify the air gap is correct. Spin the pulley
before performing a final check of the air gap.
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NOTE: On models with the clutch plate recessed into the pulley, use a 90° wire
gap gauge to measure the clutch air gap. On other models, use a blade
type feeler gauge to measure the air gap.
6. With the clutch plate assembled tight against the shim(s), measure the air gap between the clutch plate
and the pulley and bearing assembly. The air gap should be between 0.30 - 0.60 mm (0.012 - 0.024 in.). If
the air gap is not between specifications, add or subtract shims as needed until the correct air gap is
obtained.
CAUTION: Be certain that the compressor clutch field coil wire lead is routed so
that it is not pinched between the A/C compressor and the field coil
connector bracket.
7. Carefully route the compressor clutch field coil wire lead and install the connector bracket (2) and
retaining screw onto the A/C compressor. Tighten the screw to 4.3 N.m (38 in. lbs.).
8. Connect the engine wire harness to the (1).
9. Install the accessory drive belt. Refer to INSTALLATION .
10. Install the radiator and fan shroud assembly. Refer to INSTALLATION .
11. Install the coolant recovery container. Refer to REMOVAL .
CONTROL-A/C HEATER
DESCRIPTION
CONTROL-A/C HEATER
Fig. 40: A/C Heater Control

The A/C-heater control (1) for the manual temperature control (MTC) single zone heating-A/C system allows
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one temperature setting for the entire vehicle. All controls are identified by ISO graphic symbols.
The A/C-heater control and integral computer is located in the instrument panel and contains:
A rotary control for fan speed selection and for turning the heating-A/C system on and off (2). This
control which also contains a push button function for turning the rear window defogger system on and
off. The control contains an indicator lamp that illuminates when the rear window defogger system is in
operation.
A rotary control for temperature control of the discharged air (3). This control also contains a push button
function for turning the A/C system on and off. The control contains an indicator lamp that illuminates
when the A/C system is in operation.
A rotary control for mode control of the discharged air (4). This control also contains a push button
function for recirculating the conditioned air. The control contains an indicator lamp that illuminates
when the heating-A/C system is in recirculation mode.
The A/C-heater control for this heating and A/C system is diagnosed using a scan tool (refer to HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING - ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS for more information).
Prior to replacing an A/C-heater control, check for any diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) related to the heating-
A/C system and run the Actuator Calibration function using a scan tool to verify that the concern is not a system
issue. See *HVAC SYSTEM TEST .
The A/C-heater control cannot be adjusted or repaired and must be replaced if inoperative or damaged.
AUTOMATIC SINGLE ZONE
Fig. 41: A/C-Heater Control

The A/C-heater control for the automatic temperature control (ATC) single zone system maintains the interior
comfort level desired by the vehicle operator. This is accomplished by use of infrared sensors located in the
front overhead console and at the left rear of the headliner that measure the surface temperature of the driver
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and front and rear seat passengers. Based on the sensors input, the system automatically adjusts the air
temperature, airflow volume, airflow distribution and amount of inside air recirculation to maintain occupant
comfort, even under changing outside weather conditions. All controls are identified by ISO graphic symbols.
This ATC system offers several manual override features such as fan speed, airflow distribution and when the
outside air contains smoke, odors, high humidity, or if rapid cooling is desired, the interior conditioned air can
be recirculated within the vehicle.
The heating-A/C system uses electrically operated controls. These controls provide the vehicle operator with a
number of setting options to help control the climate and comfort within the vehicle.
The A/C-heater control and integral computer (1) is located in the instrument panel and contains:
A rotary control for manual and automatic blower motor speed selection and for turning the heating-A/C
system on and off (2). This control also contains a push button function for turning the rear window
defogger system on and off. The control contains an indicator lamp that illuminates when the rear
window defogger system is in operation.
A rotary control for temperature control of the discharged air (3). This control also contains a push button
function for manually turning the A/C system on and off. The control contains an indicator lamp that
illuminates when the A/C system is in operation.
A rotary control for manual and automatic mode control of the discharged air (4). This control also
contains a push button function for recirculating the conditioned air. The control contains an indicator
lamp that illuminates when the heating-A/C system is in recirculation mode.
The A/C-heater control for the ATC heating and A/C system obtains vehicle speed, engine speed, engine
coolant temperature, ambient temperature and refrigerant system head pressure data from the CAN-IHS bus and
is diagnosed using a scan tool (refer to 24 - HVAC Electrical Diagnostics for more information).
Prior to replacing an A/C-heater control, check for any diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) related to the heating-
A/C system and run the Actuator Calibration function using a scan tool to verify that the concern is not a system
issue. See *HVAC SYSTEM TEST .
The A/C-heater control cannot be adjusted or repaired and must be replaced if inoperative or damaged.
REMOVAL
CONTROL-A/C HEATER
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Fig. 42: Removing/Installing Four Screws That Secure A/C-Heater Control To Instrument Panel Center
Bezel
NOTE: MTC A/C-heater control shown. ATC control similar.

2. Remove the center bezel from the instrument panel and place it on a workbench. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the four screws (1) that secure the A/C-heater control (2) to the instrument panel center bezel (3)
and remove the control.
INSTALLATION
CONTROL-A/C HEATER
Fig. 43: Removing/Installing Four Screws That Secure A/C-Heater Control To Instrument Panel Center
Bezel
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NOTE: MTC A/C-heater control shown. ATC control similar.
1. Install the A/C-heater control (2) onto the back of the instrument panel center bezel (3).
2. Install the four screws (1) that secure the A/C-heater control to the center bezel. Tighten the screws to 1.2
N.m (10 in. lbs.).
3. Position the center bezel to the instrument panel and connect the wire harness connectors to the back of
the A/C-heater control.
4. Connect the wire harness connectors to the accessory switches and install the center bezel. Refer to
INSTALLATION .
NOTE: The A/C-heater control will automatically perform the Actuator Calibration
function when the ignition is initially turned on when installing a new
control or when reinstalling the original control. However, the Actuator
Calibration function must be manually initiated using a scan tool if the
A/C-heater control has been previously installed in another vehicle (refer
to HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS for more
information).
6. If required, initiate the Actuator Calibration function using a scan tool. See *HVAC SYSTEM TEST .
MODULE-POWER-BLOWER MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 44: Power-Blower Motor Module

A blower motor power module is used on this model when equipped with the automatic temperature control
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(ATC) heating-A/C system. Models equipped with the manual temperature control (MTC) heating-A/C system
use a blower motor resistor, instead of the blower motor power module. See DESCRIPTION.
The blower motor power module is mounted to the rear of the HVAC housing, directly behind the glove box.
The blower motor power module consists of a molded plastic mounting plate (1) with an integral connector
receptacle (2). Concealed behind the mounting plate is the power module electronic circuitry and a finned
aluminum heat sink (3). The blower motor power module is accessed for service from under the instrument
panel.
The blower motor power module is accessed for service through the glove box opening.
OPERATION
The blower motor power module is connected to the vehicle electrical system through a dedicated lead and
connector. A second lead and connector is connected to the blower motor. The blower motor power module
allows the microprocessor-based automatic temperature control (ATC) A/C-heater control to calculate and
provide infinitely variable blower motor speeds based upon either manual blower switch input or the ATC
programming using a pulse width modulated (PWM) circuit strategy.
The PWM voltage is applied to a comparator circuit which compares the PWM signal voltage to the blower
motor feedback voltage. The resulting output drives the power module circuitry, which provides a linear output
voltage to change or maintain the desired blower speed.
The blower motor power module is diagnosed using a scan tool (refer to HEATING & AIR
The blower motor power module cannot be adjusted or repaired must be replaced if inoperative or damaged.
REMOVAL
WARNING: The heat sink for the blower motor power module may get very hot during
normal operation. If the blower motor was turned on prior to servicing the
blower motor power module, wait five minutes to allow the heat sink to
cool before performing diagnosis or service. Failure to take this
precaution can result in possible personal injury.
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Fig. 45: HVAC Housing, Screws, Blower Motor Power Module & Wire Harness Connectors

2. Lower the glove box door.
3. Disconnect the two wire harness connectors (4) from the blower motor power module (3).
4. Remove the two screws (2) that secure the blower motor power module to the HVAC housing (1) and
remove the power module.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 46: HVAC Housing, Screws, Blower Motor Power Module & Wire Harness Connectors
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1. Position the blower motor power module (3) into the HVAC housing (1).
2. Install the two screws (2) that secure the blower motor power module to the HVAC housing. Tighten the
screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in. lbs.).
3. Connect the wire harness connectors (4) to the blower motor power module.
4. Close the glove box door.
RESISTOR-BLOWER MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 47: Mounting Plate, Integral Wire Connector Receptacle & Metal Housing
A blower motor resistor is used on vehicles equipped with the manual temperature control (MTC) heating-A/C
system. Vehicles equipped with the automatic temperature control (ATC) heating-A/C system use a blower
motor power module, instead of the blower motor resistor. See DESCRIPTION.
The blower motor resistor is mounted to the rear of the HVAC housing, directly behind the glove box. The
blower motor resistor consists of a molded plastic mounting plate (1) with an integral wire connector receptacle
(2). Concealed behind the mounting plate is the resistor circuit board located within a metal housing (3).
The blower motor resistor is accessed for service through the glove box opening.
OPERATION
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The blower motor resistor is connected to the vehicle electrical system through a dedicated wire lead and
connector of the HVAC wire harness. The blower motor resistor has multiple resistor circuits, each of which
will reduce the current flow through the blower motor to change the blower motor speed.
The blower motor control in the MTC heating-A/C system directs the ground path for the blower motor through
the correct resistor circuit to obtain the selected speed. With the blower motor control in the lowest speed
position, the ground path for the blower motor is applied through all of the resistor circuits. Each higher speed
selected with the blower motor control applies the blower motor ground path through fewer of the resistor
circuits, increasing the blower motor speed. When the blower motor control is in the highest speed position, the
blower motor resistor is bypassed and the blower motor receives a direct path to ground.
The blower motor resistor cannot be adjusted or repaired and it must be replaced if found inoperative or
damaged.
NOTE: For circuit descriptions and diagrams, refer to WIRING DIAGRAM

INFORMATION . The wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire
and connector repair procedures, further details on wire harness routing and
retention, as well as pin-out and location views for the various wire harness

2. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the blower motor resistor. See REMOVAL.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all of the blower motor resistor terminals. In each case
there should be continuity. If OK, repair the wire harness circuits between the blower motor speed control
and the blower motor resistor or blower motor as required. If not OK, replace the inoperative blower
motor resistor.
REMOVAL
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WARNING: The blower motor resistor may get very hot during normal operation. If
the blower motor was turned on prior to servicing the blower motor
resistor, wait five minutes to allow the blower motor resistors to cool
before performing diagnosis or service. Failure to take this precaution
can result in possible personal injury.
Fig. 48: Blower Motor Resistor, Wire Harness Connector, Screws & HVAC Housing
NOTE: Typical resistor shown. RHD model similar.

2. Lower the glove box door.
3. Disconnect the wire harness connector (2) from the blower motor resistor (1).
4. Remove the two screws (3) that secure the blower motor resistor to the HVAC housing (4) and remove
the resistor.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 49: Blower Motor Resistor, Wire Harness Connector, Screws & HVAC Housing
NOTE: Typical resistor shown. RHD model similar.
1. Position the blower motor resistor (1) into the HVAC housing (4).
2. Install the two screws (3) that secure the blower motor resistor to the HVAC housing. Tighten the screws
to 1.2 N.m (10 in. lbs.).
3. Connect the wire harness connector (2) to the blower motor resistor.
4. Close the glove box door.
SENSOR-EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 50: Evaporator Temperature Sensor, A/C Evaporator, HVAC Housing & Connector Receptacle
NOTE: Typical evaporator temperature sensor shown.
The evaporator temperature sensor (1) measures the temperature of the conditioned air downstream of the A/C
evaporator (2). The evaporator temperature sensor is an electrical thermistor within a molded plastic case that is
inserted into rear the HVAC housing (3) near the coldest point of the A/C evaporator. Two terminals within the
connector receptacle (4) connect the sensor to the vehicle electrical system through a wire lead and connector of
The external location of the evaporator temperature sensor allows the sensor to be removed or installed without
disturbing the refrigerant in the A/C system.
OPERATION
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The evaporator temperature sensor monitors the temperature of the conditioned air downstream of the A/C
evaporator and supplies an input signal to the A/C-heater control. The A/C-heater control uses the evaporator
temperature sensor input signal to optimize A/C system performance and to protect the A/C system from
evaporator freezing. The evaporator temperature sensor will change its internal resistance in response to the
temperatures it monitors and is connected to the A/C-heater control through sensor ground circuit and a 5-volt
reference signal circuit. As the temperature of the A/C evaporator decreases, the internal resistance of the
evaporator temperature sensor decreases.
The A/C-heater control uses the monitored voltage reading as an indication of evaporator temperature. The
A/C-heater control is programmed to respond to this input by requesting the powertrain control module (PCM)
or the engine control module (ECM) (depending on engine application) to cycle the A/C compressor clutch as
necessary to optimize A/C system performance and to protect the A/C system from evaporator freezing.
The evaporator temperature sensor is diagnosed using a scan tool. See HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING -
ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS for more information.
The evaporator temperature sensor cannot be adjusted or repaired and must be replaced if found inoperative or
damaged.
REMOVAL
NOTE: Illustration shown with instrument panel removed for clarity.
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Fig. 51: Removing/Installing Evaporator Temperature Sensor From Front Of HVAC Housing

2. Partially remove the instrument panel to gain access to the evaporator temperature sensor (1) located in
the rear of the HVAC housing (2), near the bottom of the instrument panel on the passenger side. Refer to
REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector from the evaporator temperature sensor and
remove the sensor from the HVAC housing.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Illustration shown with instrument panel removed for clarity.
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1. Install the evaporator temperature sensor (1) into rear of the HVAC housing (2) and connect the
instrument panel wire harness connector.
2. Install the instrument panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
SENSOR-INFRARED
DESCRIPTION
SENSOR-INFRARED
Fig. 53: Infrared Temperature Sensor, Integral Wire Connector Receptacle, Alignment Tabs & Clear
Lens
The infrared temperature sensor (1) consists of an infrared transducer concealed behind a clear lens (4) located
in a molded plastic housing with an integral wire connector receptacle (2) and mounting and alignment tabs (3
and 5).
The infrared sensor is used only on models equipped with the automatic temperature control (ATC) heating-
A/C system.
OPERATION
SENSOR-INFRARED
The infrared sensor detects thermal radiation emitted by the driver and front seat occupants and surroundings
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and converts its data into a linear pulse width modulated (PWM) output signal which is read by the automatic
temperature control (ATC) A/C-heater control. The ATC A/C-heater control uses the infrared sensor data as one
of the inputs necessary to automatically control the interior cabin temperature level. By using thermal radiation
(surface temperature) measurement, rather than an air temperature measurement, the ATC heating-A/C system
is able to adjust itself to the comfort level as perceived by the front seat occupants. This allows the ATC system
to compensate for other ambient conditions affecting comfort levels, such as solar heat gain or evaporative heat
loss.
The ATC system logic responds to the infrared sensor message by calculating and adjusting the air flow
temperature and air flow rate needed to properly obtain and maintain the selected comfort level temperature of
the occupants. The A/C-heater control continually monitors the infrared sensor circuit, and will store diagnostic
trouble codes (DTCs) for any problem it detects.
The infrared sensor is diagnosed using a scan tool (refer to HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING -
ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS for more information).
The infrared sensor cannot be adjusted or repaired and must be replaced if inoperative or damaged.
REMOVAL
SENSOR-INFRARED
NOTE: Take the proper precautions to protect the front face of the overhead console
from cosmetic damage while performing this procedure.
Fig. 54: Overhead Console, Screw, Infrared Sensor & Tab

NOTE: Typical overhead console shown.

2. Remove the overhead console (1) from the headliner and place it on a workbench (refer to REMOVAL ).
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3. Remove the screw (2) that secures the infrared sensor (3) to the back of the overhead console and remove
the sensor.
INSTALLATION
SENSOR-INFRARED
NOTE: Take the proper precautions to protect the front face of the overhead console
from cosmetic damage while performing this procedure.
Fig. 55: Overhead Console, Screw, Infrared Sensor & Tab

NOTE: Typical overhead console shown.
1. Position the infrared sensor (3) onto the back of the overhead console (1). Align the tab (4) on the sensor
with the slot in the console.
2. Install the screw (2) that secures the infrared sensor(s) to the overhead console. Tighten the screw to 1.2
N.m (10 in. lbs).
3. Install the overhead console (refer to INSTALLATION ).
TRANSDUCER-A/C PRESSURE
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 56: A/C Pressure Transducer

The A/C pressure transducer (1) sends a signal to the powertrain control module (PCM) which controls both
A/C compressor clutch engagement/disengagement and electric cooling fan operation. The A/C pressure
transducer is mounted on a fitting located on the A/C liquid line near the dash panel. The PCM will disengage
the A/C compressor clutch when high side pressure rises above 2971 kPa (431 psi) or fall below 206 kPa (30
psi).
The fitting for the A/C pressure transducer on the A/C liquid line is equipped with an O-ring seal and contains a
Schrader-type valve to allow the transducer to be serviced without discharging the refrigerant system.
OPERATION
The A/C pressure transducer monitors the pressures in the high side of the refrigerant system through its
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connection to a fitting on the A/C liquid line. The A/C pressure transducer will change its internal resistance in
response to the pressures it monitors. The powertrain control module (PCM) or the engine control module
(ECM) (depending on engine application) provides a five volt reference signal and a sensor ground to the A/C
pressure transducer, then monitors the output voltage of the A/C pressure transducer on a sensor return circuit to
determine refrigerant pressure. The PCM/ECM is programmed to respond to the A/C pressure transducer and
other sensor inputs by controlling the operation of the A/C compressor clutch and the radiator cooling fan to
help optimize A/C system performance and to protect the system components from damage. The PCM/ECM
will disengage the A/C compressor clutch when high side pressure rises above 2971 kPa (431 psi) or fall below
206 kPa (30 psi). The A/C pressure transducer input to the PCM/ECM also prevents the A/C compressor clutch
from engaging when ambient temperatures are below about 10°C (50°F) due to the pressure/temperature
relationship of the refrigerant.
A Schrader-type valve in the A/C discharge line fitting permits the A/C pressure transducer to be removed or
installed without disturbing the refrigerant in the A/C system.
The A/C pressure transducer is diagnosed using a scan tool (refer to appropriate Engine ELECTRICAL
DIAGNOSTICS article for more information).
The A/C pressure transducer cannot be adjusted or repaired and it must be replaced if found inoperative or
damaged.
The A/C pressure transducer is tested using a scan tool (refer to appropriate Engine ELECTRICAL
DIAGNOSTICS article for more information). Before testing the A/C pressure transducer, be certain that the
transducer wire harness connection is clean of corrosion and properly connected. For the A/C to operate, an A/C
pressure transducer voltage reading between 0.451 and 4.519 volts is required. Voltages outside this range
indicate a low or high refrigerant system pressure condition to the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM
is programmed to respond to a low or high refrigerant system pressure by suppressing operation of the A/C
compressor. Refer to the A/C Pressure Transducer Voltage chart for the possible conditions indicated by the
transducer voltage reading.
A/C PRESSURE TRANSDUCER VOLTAGE

Voltage Possible Indication
0.0 1. No sensor supply voltage from PCM.
2. Shorted sensor circuit.
3. Inoperative transducer.
0.150 TO 0.450 1. Ambient temperature below 10°C (50°F).
2. Low refrigerant system pressure.
0.451 TO 4.519 1. Normal refrigerant system pressure.
4.520 TO 4.850 1. High refrigerant system pressure.
5.0 1. Open sensor circuit.
2. Inoperative transducer.
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REMOVAL
NOTE: It is not necessary to discharge the refrigerant system to replace the A/C
pressure transducer.
Fig. 57: Wire Harness Connector, A/C Pressure Transducer, A/C Liquid Line & Dash Panel

2. Disconnect the wire harness connector (1) from the A/C pressure transducer (2) located on the A/C liquid
line (3) near the dash panel (4) in the engine compartment.
3. Remove the A/C pressure transducer from the A/C liquid line and remove and discard the O-ring seal.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Use only the specified O-ring as it is made of special material for R-134a. Use
only refrigerant oil of the type required for the A/C compressor.
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Fig. 58: Wire Harness Connector, A/C Pressure Transducer, A/C Liquid Line & Dash Panel
1. Lubricate a new rubber O-ring seal with clean refrigerant oil and install it onto the A/C pressure
transducer fitting.
2. Install the A/C pressure transducer (2) onto the A/C liquid line (3) near the dash panel (4). Hand-
tightened the transducer securely.
3. Connect the wire harness connector (1) to the A/C pressure transducer.
DISTRIBUTION
DUCT-CENTER INSTRUMENT PANEL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 59: Instrument Panel, Screws & Center Instrument Panel Duct

2. Remove the radio from the instrument panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Reach through the opening in the instrument panel (2) and remove the three screws (3) that secure the
center instrument panel duct (1) to the instrument panel.
4. Rotate the center instrument panel duct as necessary and remove the duct.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 60: Instrument Panel, Screws & Center Instrument Panel Duct
1. Rotate the center instrument panel duct as necessary to position the duct into the instrument panel.
2. Install the three screws (3) that secure the center instrument panel duct (1) to the instrument panel.
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Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in. lbs.).

3. Install the radio. Refer to INSTALLATION .
DUCT-DEFROSTER
REMOVAL
DUCT-DEFROSTER
NOTE: Take the proper precautions to protect the front face of the instrument panel
from cosmetic damage during this service procedure.
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Fig. 61: Removing/Installing Screws That Secure Defroster Duct To Instrument Panel And Duct
1. Remove the instrument panel and place it on a workbench. Refer to REMOVAL .

2. Remove the three screws (3) that secure the defroster duct (2) to the instrument panel (1) and remove the
duct.
INSTALLATION
DUCT-DEFROSTER
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Fig. 62: Removing/Installing Screws That Secure Defroster Duct To Instrument Panel And Duct
1. Position the defroster duct (2) into the instrument panel (1).
2. Install the three screws (3) that secure the defroster duct to the instrument panel. Tighten the screws to 1.2
N.m (10 in. lbs.).
DUCT-FLOOR DISTRIBUTION
REMOVAL
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NOTE: LHD model shown in illustrations. RHD model similar.
DRIVER SIDE
Fig. 63: Removing/Installing Screws That Secure Driver Side Front Floor Duct To Driver Side Of Air
Distribution Housing And Duct
REMOVAL .
2. Remove the two screws (1) that secure the driver side front floor duct (3) to the driver side of the air
distribution housing (2) and remove the duct.
PASSENGER SIDE
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Fig. 64: HVAC Housing, Screws, Lower Front Passenger Side Floor Duct & Upper Front Passenger Side
Floor Duct
1. Remove the HVAC Housing assembly and place it on a workbench. See REMOVAL.
2. Remove the two screws (2) that secure the lower front passenger side floor duct (3) to the bottom of the
HVAC housing (1).
3. Disconnect the lower front passenger side floor duct from the upper front passenger side floor duct (4)
and remove the lower duct.
Fig. 65: Removing/Installing Two Screws That Secure Upper Front Passenger Side Floor Duct To
Passenger Side Of Air Distribution Housing And Upper Duct
NOTE: Illustration shown with air distribution housing removed from HVAC
housing for clarity.
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4. Remove the two screws (1) that secure the upper front passenger side floor duct to the passenger side of
the air distribution housing (3) and remove the upper duct.
INSTALLATION
DRIVER SIDE
Fig. 66: Removing/Installing Screws That Secure Driver Side Front Floor Duct To Driver Side Of Air
Distribution Housing And Duct
1. Install the driver side front floor duct (3) to the driver side of the air distribution housing (2) and install
the two retaining screws (1). Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.).
INSTALLATION .
PASSENGER SIDE
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Fig. 67: Removing/Installing Two Screws That Secure Upper Front Passenger Side Floor Duct To
Passenger Side Of Air Distribution Housing And Upper Duct
NOTE: Illustration shown with air distribution housing removed from HVAC housing for
clarity.
1. Install the upper front passenger side floor duct (2) to the passenger side of the air distribution housing (3)
and install the two retaining screws (1). Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.).
Fig. 68: HVAC Housing, Screws, Lower Front Passenger Side Floor Duct & Upper Front Passenger
Side Floor Duct
2. Connect the lower front passenger side floor duct (3) to the upper front passenger side floor duct (4).
3. Install the two screws (2) that secure the lower front passenger side floor duct to the bottom of the HVAC
housing (1). Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.).
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4. Install the HVAC housing assembly. See INSTALLATION.
DUCT-REAR FLOOR HEAT
REMOVAL
Fig. 69: Rear Floor Heat Duct, Push-Pin Retainer, Floor Console Bracket, Gear Shift Lever Assembly &
Floor Distribution Duct
NOTE: Typical rear floor heat duct shown.
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1. Remove the floor console. Refer to REMOVAL .

2. Remove the push-pin retainer (2) that secures the rear floor heat duct (1) to the floor console bracket (3)
located behind the gear shift lever assembly (4).
3. Disconnect the rear floor heat duct from the floor distribution duct (5).
4. Remove the rear floor heat duct from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 70: Rear Floor Heat Duct, Push-Pin Retainer, Floor Console Bracket, Gear Shift Lever Assembly &
Floor Distribution Duct
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NOTE: Typical rear floor heat duct shown.
1. Position the rear floor heat duct (1) into the vehicle.
2. Connect the rear floor heat duct to the floor distribution duct (5) located in front of the gear shift lever
assembly (4).
3. Install the push-pin retainer (2) that secures the rear floor heat duct to the floor console bracket (3).
4. Install the floor console. Refer to INSTALLATION .
HOUSING-HVAC
DESCRIPTION
HOUSING-HVAC
Fig. 71: Air Distribution Housing, HVAC Housing & Air Inlet Housing
All models are equipped with a common HVAC housing assembly that combines A/C and heating capabilities
into a single unit mounted within the passenger compartment. The HVAC housing assembly consists of three
separate housings:
Air distribution housing - The air distribution housing (1) is mounted to the top of the HVAC housing
(2) and contains the heater core, blend-air and mode-air doors and door linkage.
Air inlet housing - The air inlet housing (3) is mounted to the passenger side end of the HVAC housing.
The air inlet housing contains the recirculation-air door and actuator.
HVAC housing - The HVAC housing is mounted to the dash panel behind the instrument panel and
contains the A/C evaporator. The HVAC housing consists of a upper and a lower housing that are
attached together and has mounting provisions for the air inlet housing, air distribution housing, blower
motor and blower motor resistor.
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The heating-A/C system is a blend-air type system. The blend-air door controls the amount of conditioned air
that is allowed to flow through, or around, the heater core.
The A/C system is designed for the use of a non-CFC, R-134a refrigerant and uses an A/C evaporator to cool
and dehumidify the incoming air prior to blending it with the heated air. A temperature control determines the
discharge air temperature by operating the temperature control cable, which moves the blend-air door. This
allows an almost immediate control of the output air temperature of the system. The mode door cable operates
the mode-air doors which direct the flow of the conditioned air out the various air outlets, depending on the
mode selected. The recirculation door actuator operates the recirculation-air door which closes off the fresh air
intake and recirculates the air already inside the vehicle. The electric recirculation door actuator and the blower
motor are connected to the vehicle electrical system by the instrument panel wire harness. The blower motor
controls the velocity of air flowing through the HVAC housing assembly by spinning the blower wheel within
the HVAC housing at the selected speed by use of the blower motor resistor, which is located in the dash panel
in the engine compartment.
The air distribution housing must be removed from the HVAC housing and disassembled for service of the
blend-air and mode-air doors. The air inlet housing must be removed from HVAC housing and disassembled for
service of the recirculation-air door. The HVAC housing must be removed from the vehicle and disassembled
for service of the A/C evaporator.
REMOVAL
HOUSING-AIR DISTRIBUTION
to follow the warnings and cautions could result in possible personal
injury or death.
NOTE: The air distribution housing must be removed from the HVAC housing and
disassembled for service of the heater core and the blend-air and mode-air
doors.
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Fig. 72: Air Distribution Housing Remove/Install Components

1. Remove the HVAC housing assembly and place it on a workbench. See REMOVAL.
2. Remove the screw (4) that secures the heater core tube flange (3) to the top of the HVAC housing (5).
3. Remove the three screws (6) and three metal clips (7) that secure the air distribution housing (8) to the top
of the HVAC housing.
4. Disengage the plastic retaining tab (1) that secures the front driver side of the air distribution housing to
the top of the HVAC housing.
5. Tip the rear of the air distribution housing slightly upward to disengage the two plastic retaining tabs (2)
that secure the front of the distribution housing to the HVAC housing and remove the distribution
housing.
6. If required, disassemble the air distribution housing. See DISASSEMBLY.
SCREEN-AIR INLET
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Fig. 73: Air Inlet Screen, Nuts, Cowl Panel & Retaining Studs
1. Remove the cowl grille. Refer to REMOVAL .

2. Remove the two nuts (2) that secure the air inlet screen (1) to the cowl panel (3).
3. Slide the air inlet screen inward to disengage the screen from the two retaining studs (4) and pull the
screen straight up to remove it from the cowl.
HOUSING-AIR INLET
injury or death.
NOTE: The air inlet housing must be removed from HVAC housing and disassembled
for service of the recirculation-air door on all models.
NOTE: On RHD models, the air inlet housing must be removed from HVAC housing for
service of the recirculation door actuator.
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Fig. 74: Screw, Plastic Retaining Tabs, Air Inlet Housing & HVAC Housing
NOTE: Typical housing shown. RHD model similar.
2. Remove the screw (1) that helps secure the rear of the air inlet housing (3) to the top of the HVAC
housing (4).
3. Carefully pull the rear of the air inlet housing upward to release the inlet housing from the top of the
HVAC housing and disengage the inlet housing from the two plastic retaining tabs (2) located at the front
of the HVAC housing and remove the inlet housing.
4. If required, disassemble the air inlet housing. See DISASSEMBLY.
HOUSING-HVAC
injury or death.
NOTE: The HVAC housing must be removed from the vehicle and disassembled for
service of the A/C evaporator.
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Fig. 75: Suction Line Assembly, Nuts, A/C Expansion Valve, Heater Hoses & Dash Panel

2. Recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant system. See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM RECOVERY.
3. Partially drain the engine cooling system (refer to DRAINING ).
4. Remove the nut (2) that secures the A/C liquid and suction line assembly (1) to the A/C expansion valve
(3).
5. Disconnect the A/C liquid and suction line assembly from the A/C expansion valve and remove and
discard the O-ring seals.
6. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened refrigerant line fittings and the expansion valve ports.
7. Disconnect the heater hoses (4) from the heater core tubes. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened heater
core tubes to prevent coolant spillage during housing removal.
8. Remove the nut (6) that secures the HVAC housing assembly to the engine compartment side of the dash
panel (5).
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Fig. 76: Removing/Installing Nuts That Secure HVAC Housing Assembly To Passenger Side Of
Dash Panel
9. Remove the instrument panel. Refer to REMOVAL .

10. Remove the rear floor duct. See REMOVAL.
11. Remove the two nuts (1) that secure the HVAC housing assembly (2) to the passenger side of the dash
panel (3).
NOTE: Use care to ensure that the interior is covered in case of loss of residual
fluids from the heater and evaporator cores.
12. Pull the HVAC housing assembly rearward and remove the housing from the passenger compartment.
DISASSEMBLY
WARNING: The heater core tubes are not serviced separately from the heater core.
The heater core tubes should not be repositioned, loosened or removed
from the heater core. Failure to follow this warning could result in a
coolant leak and possible personal injury or death.
NOTE: The air distribution housing must be removed from the HVAC housing and
disassembled for service of the heater core and the mode-air and blend-air
doors.
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2. Remove the air distribution housing (4) from the HVAC housing. See REMOVAL.
3. Remove the screws (3) that secure the mode door actuator (2) and the blend door actuator (6) to the
actuator mounting bracket (5) located on the driver side of the air distribution housing and remove the
actuators.
4. Remove the three screws (1) that secure the actuator mounting bracket to the air distribution housing and
remove the bracket.
5. Remove the two screws (8) that secure the driver side front floor duct (7) to the air distribution housing
and remove the duct
Fig. 78: Removing/Installing Defrost Door Lever/Gear Assembly, Mode Door Cam, Panel Door
Gear, Blend Door Gear, Blend Door Lever And Blend Door Cam From Driver Side Of Air
Distribution Housing
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6. Remove the defrost door lever and gear assembly (1), mode door cam (2), panel door gear (3), blend door
gear (4), blend door lever (6) and the blend door cam (5) from the driver side of the air distribution
housing (7).
7. If equipped with the 2.8L diesel engine, remove the electric positive temperature coefficient (PTC) heater
unit from the air distribution housing. See REMOVAL.
Fig. 79: Air Distribution Housing Assembly

8. Remove the two screws (1) that secure the upper front passenger side floor duct (7) to the passenger side
of the air distribution housing (8) and remove the duct.
NOTE: If the foam seal for the heater core tube flange is deformed or damaged, it
must be replaced.
9. Carefully remove the foam seal (3) from the heater core tube flange (4). If the seal is deformed or
damaged, it must be replaced.
10. Remove the screw (2) that secures the heater core tube flange to the air distribution housing.
11. Disengage the plastic retainer (5) from around the heater core tubes (6) and remove the flange.
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Fig. 80: Plastic Retaining Tabs, Heater Core & Air Distribution Housing
NOTE: If the foam insulator around the heater core is deformed or damaged, the
insulator must be replaced.
12. Disengage the four plastic retaining tabs (1) that secure the heater core (2) to the passenger side of the air
distribution housing (3) and carefully remove the heater core from the housing.
Fig. 81: Foam Seal, Parting Line, Air Distribution Housing, Parting Line, Plastic Retaining Tabs &
Screw
13. Carefully cut the foam seal (1) along the parting line (2) of the two halves of the air distribution housing
(3 and 6). If the seal is deformed or damaged, it must be replaced.
14. Remove the screw (5) that secures the two halves of the air distribution housing together located on the
bottom of the housing, near the center.
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15. Disengage the four plastic retaining tabs (4) and carefully separate the two halves of the air distribution
housing.
Fig. 82: Air Deflector Vane Assembly & Air Distribution Housing
16. Remove the air deflector vane assembly (1) from the passenger side of the air distribution housing (2).
Disengage the two plastic retaining tabs (1) and slide the vane straight out of the housing.
Fig. 83: Removing/Installing Floor-Air Door, Blend-Air Door, Panel-Air Door And Defrost-Air
Door From Driver Side Of Air Distribution Housing
NOTE: If the seal on any air door is deformed or damaged, that air door must be
replaced.
17. Remove the floor-air door (1), blend-air door (2), panel-air door (3) and the defrost-air door (4) from the
driver side of the air distribution housing (5) as required.
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HOUSING-HVAC
NOTE: The HVAC housing must be removed from the vehicle and disassembled for
service of the A/C evaporator.
2. Remove the air distribution housing (1) from the HVAC housing (2). See REMOVAL.
3. Remove the air inlet housing (3) from the HVAC housing. See REMOVAL.
4. Remove the passenger side lower front floor duct. See REMOVAL.
Fig. 85: Screws, HVAC Housing, Blower Motor & Blower Motor Resistor
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5. Remove the two screws (1) that secure the blower motor resistor (5) to the rear of the HVAC housing (2)
and remove the resistor.
6. Remove the three screws (3) that secure the blower motor (4) to the bottom of the HVAC housing and
remove the blower motor.
7. Remove the evaporator temperature sensor (1) from the front of the HVAC housing (2).
Fig. 87: Foam Seal, HVAC Housing, Screws, Plastic Retaining Tabs & Metal Clips
NOTE: If the foam seal for the flange is deformed or damaged, it must be
replaced.
8. Carefully remove the foam seal (1) from the front of the two halves of the HVAC housing (2 and 6). If
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the seal is deformed or damaged, it must be replaced.
NOTE: Be sure to remove the screws that secure the two halves of the HVAC
housing together located at the bottom of the HVAC housing.
9. Remove the seven screws (5) and two metal clips (3) that secure the two halves of the HVAC housing
together.
10. Disengage the four plastic retaining tabs (4) that secure the two halves of the HVAC housing together and
separate the housing halves.
Fig. 88: A/C Evaporator, Foam Insulator, HVAC Housing, Rubber Seal & Tapping Block
NOTE: If the foam insulator around the A/C evaporator is deformed or damaged,
the insulator must be replaced.
11. Carefully lift the A/C evaporator (1) and the foam insulator (2) out of the lower half of the HVAC
housing (3).
NOTE: If the rubber seal around the evaporator tubes and tapping block is
deformed or damaged, the seal must be replaced.
12. If required, remove the rubber seal (4) from around the evaporator tubes and tapping block (5).
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Fig. 89: Air Deflector Vane, HVAC Housing & Foam Seal
13. Disengage the retainers that secure the air deflector vane (1) to the lower half of the HVAC housing (2)
and remove the deflector vane.
14. If required, remove the foam seal (3) from around the condensate drain located at the bottom of the
HVAC housing.
HOUSING-AIR INLET
NOTE: The air inlet housing must be removed from HVAC housing and disassembled
for service of the recirculation-air door.
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2. Remove the air inlet housing (3) from the HVAC housing (2). See REMOVAL.
Fig. 91: Foam Seal, Parting Line, Recirculation-Air Door, Recirculation Door Actuator, Screws &
Air Inlet Housing
NOTE: If the foam seal on top of the air inlet housing is deformed or damaged, it
must be replaced.
3. Carefully cut the foam seal (1) along the parting line (2) of the two halves of the air inlet housing (6 and
7). If the seal is deformed or damaged, it must be replaced.
4. Remove the two screws (5) that secure the recirculation door actuator (4) to the air inlet housing and
NOTE: If a rubber seal on the recirculation air-door is deformed or damaged, the

air-door must be replaced.
5. Carefully disengage the three plastic retaining tabs that secure the two halves of the air inlet housing
together and remove the recirculation-air door (3) from the inlet housing. If the seal on the recirculation-
air door is deformed or damaged, the air-door must be replaced.
ASSEMBLY
HOUSING-AIR INLET
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Fig. 92: Foam Seal, Parting Line, Recirculation-Air Door, Recirculation Door Actuator, Screws & Air
Inlet Housing
NOTE: If a rubber seal on the recirculation air-door is deformed or damaged, the air-
door must be replaced.
1. Install the recirculation-air door (3) into the two halves of the air inlet housing (6 and 7). Align the air
door pivot shaft with the holes in the housing halves.
2. Carefully install the two halves of the air inlet housing together and engage the three plastic retaining
tabs. Make sure the retaining tabs are fully engaged.
3. Position the recirculation door actuator (4) to the air inlet housing. Make sure the actuator output shaft is
properly aligned to the recirculation door pivot shaft. If necessary, rotate the actuator slightly to engage
the splines on the output shaft with those in the pivot shaft.
4. Install the two screws (5) that secure the recirculation door actuator to the air inlet housing. Tighten the
NOTE: If the foam seal on top of the air inlet housing is deformed or damaged, it
must be replaced.
5. Inspect the foam seal (1), especially along the parting line (2) of the two halves of the air inlet housing.
Replace the seal if it is deformed or damaged.
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6. Install the air inlet housing (3) onto the HVAC housing (2). See INSTALLATION.
HOUSING-HVAC
CAUTION: Be certain to adjust the refrigerant oil level when servicing the A/C
refrigerant system. See REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL. Failure to properly
adjust the refrigerant oil level will prevent the A/C system from operating
as designed and can cause serious A/C compressor damage.
NOTE: When replacing multiple A/C system components, refer to the Refrigerant Oil
Capacities chart to determine how much oil should be added to the refrigerant
system. See REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL.
NOTE: If the A/C evaporator is being replaced, add 60 milliliters (2 fluid ounces) of
refrigerant oil to the refrigerant system. Use only refrigerant oil of the type
recommended for the A/C compressor in the vehicle.
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Fig. 94: Air Deflector Vane, HVAC Housing & Foam Seal
1. If removed, install the foam seal (3) onto the condensate drain located at the bottom of the HVAC
housing (2).
2. Install the air deflector vane (1) into the lower half of the HVAC housing. Make sure the retainers are
fully engaged.
NOTE: Make sure the rubber seal for the evaporator tubes and tapping block is
properly positioned in the HVAC housing opening.
3. If removed, install the rubber seal (4) over the evaporator tubes and tapping block (5).
NOTE: Make sure that the foam insulator around the A/C evaporator is properly
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positioned within the HVAC housing.
4. Carefully install the A/C evaporator (1) and foam insulator (2) into the lower half of the HVAC housing
(3).
Fig. 96: Foam Seal, HVAC Housing, Screws, Plastic Retaining Tabs & Metal Clips
5. Install the two halves of the HVAC housing (2 and 6) together and engage the four plastic retaining tabs
(4). Make sure the retaining tabs are fully engaged.
NOTE: Be sure to install the screws that secure the two halves of the HVAC
housing together located at the bottom of the HVAC housing.
6. Install the seven screws (5) and two metal clips (3) that secure the two halves of the HVAC housing
together. Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.). Make sure the metal clips are fully engaged to the
housing halves.
7. Install the foam seal (1) onto the front of the two HVAC housing halves.
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8. Install the evaporator temperature sensor (1) into the front of the HVAC housing (2). Make sure the
sensor is fully engaged to the housing.
Fig. 98: Screws, HVAC Housing, Blower Motor & Blower Motor Resistor
9. Position the blower motor (4) into the bottom of the HVAC housing (2) and install the three retaining
screws (3). Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in. lbs.).
10. Position the blower motor resistor (5) into the HVAC housing and install the two retaining screws (1).
Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in. lbs.).
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11. Install the air inlet housing (3) onto the HVAC housing (2). See INSTALLATION.
12. Install the air distribution housing (1) onto the HVAC housing. See INSTALLATION.
13. Install the passenger side lower front floor duct. See INSTALLATION.
NOTE: If the heater core is being replaced, flush the cooling system. Refer to
CLEANING/REVERSE FLUSHING .

15. If the A/C evaporator is being replaced, add 60 milliliters (2 fluid ounces) of refrigerant oil to the
refrigerant system. When replacing multiple A/C system components, refer to the Refrigerant Oil
Capacities chart to determine how much oil should be added to the refrigerant system. See
REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL. Use only refrigerant oil of the type recommended for the A/C
compressor in the vehicle.
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Fig. 100: Removing/Installing Floor-Air Door, Blend-Air Door, Panel-Air Door And Defrost-Air Door
From Driver Side Of Air Distribution Housing
NOTE: If the seal on any air door is deformed or damaged, that air door must be
replaced.
1. Install the floor-air door (1), blend-air door (2), panel-air door (3) and the defrost-air door (4) into the
driver side of the air distribution housing (5) as required. Align the air door pivot shafts with the holes in
the housing.
Fig. 101: Air Deflector Vane Assembly & Air Distribution Housing
2. Install the air deflector vane assembly (1) into the passenger side of the air distribution housing (2). Slide
the vane assembly into the track in the housing and engage the two plastic retaining tabs. Make sure the
retaining tabs are fully engaged.
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Fig. 102: Foam Seal, Parting Line, Air Distribution Housing, Parting Line, Plastic Retaining Tabs
& Screw
3. Align the air door pivot shafts with the holes in the passenger side of the air distribution housing (3) and
carefully install passenger side of the air distribution housing (1) onto the driver side of the housing.
4. Engage the four plastic retaining tabs (4) that secure the two halves of the air distribution housing
together. Make sure the retaining tabs are fully engaged.
5. Install the retaining screw (5) that secures the two halves of the air distribution housing together at the
bottom of the housing, near the center. Tighten the screw to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.).
NOTE: If the foam seal on top of the air distribution housing is deformed or
6. Inspect the foam seal (1), especially along the parting line (2) of the two halves of the air distribution
housing. Replace the seal if it is deformed or damaged.
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7. Carefully install the heater core (2) into the passenger side of the air distribution housing (3) and engage
the four plastic retainer tabs (1) that secure the heater core to the housing. Make sure the retaining tabs are
fully engaged.

8. Position the heater core tube flange (4) over the heater core tubes (6) and onto the to the passenger side of
9. Engage the plastic retainer (5) around the heater core tubes. Make sure the retainer is fully engaged.
10. Install the screw (2) that secures the heater core tube flange to the air distribution housing. Tighten the
screw to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.).
11. Install the upper front passenger side floor duct (7) onto the air distribution housing and install the two
retaining screws (1). Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.).
must be replaced.
12. Install the foam seal (3) onto the heater core tube flange.
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Fig. 105: Removing/Installing Defrost Door Lever/Gear Assembly, Mode Door Cam, Panel Door
Gear, Blend Door Gear, Blend Door Lever And Blend Door Cam From Driver Side Of Air
Distribution Housing
13. If equipped with the 2.8L diesel engine, install the electric positive temperature coefficient (PTC) heater
unit. See INSTALLATION.
14. Install the blend door cam (5), blend door lever (6), blend door gear (4), panel door gear (3), mode door
cam (2), and the defrost door lever and gear assembly (1) onto the driver side of the air distribution
housing (7).

15. Install the driver side front floor duct (7) onto the driver side of the air distribution housing (4) and install
the two retaining screws (8). Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.).
16. Position the actuator mounting bracket (5) onto the air distribution housing and install the three retaining
screws (1). Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.).
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17. Position the mode door actuator (2) and the blend door actuator (6) onto the actuator mounting bracket. If
necessary, rotate the actuator slightly to align the splines on the actuator output shaft with those on the
door linkage.
18. Install the screws (3) that secure the mode and blend door actuators to the actuator mounting bracket.
Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.).
19. Install the air distribution housing onto the HVAC housing. See INSTALLATION.
INSTALLATION
SCREEN-AIR INLET
Fig. 107: Air Inlet Screen, Nuts, Cowl Panel & Retaining Studs
1. Position the air inlet screen (1) into the cowl panel (3) and fully engage the screen onto the two retaining
studs (4).
2. Install the air inlet screen onto the cowl panel and install the two retaining nuts (4). Tighten the nuts to 2.3
N.m (20 in. lbs.).
3. Install the cowl grille. Refer to INSTALLATION .
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Fig. 108: Air Distribution Housing Remove/Install Components

1. Position the air distribution housing (8) onto the top of the HVAC housing (5) and engage the two plastic
retaining tabs (2) that secure the front of the distribution housing to the HVAC housing.
2. Engage the plastic retaining tab (1) that secures the front driver side of the air distribution housing to the
HVAC housing. Make sure the passenger side floor ducts are properly connected to each other.
3. Install the three metal retaining clips (7) and three screws (6) that secure the air distribution housing to the
HVAC housing. Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in. lbs.).
must be replaced.
4. Install the screw (4) that secures the heater core tube flange (3) to the top of the HVAC housing. Tighten
the screw to 1.2 N.m (10 in. lbs.).
HOUSING-HVAC
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Fig. 109: Removing/Installing Nuts That Secure HVAC Housing Assembly To Passenger Side Of Dash
Panel
1. Position the HVAC housing assembly (2) to the passenger side of the dash panel (3). Be certain that the
housing is correctly located over the two dash panel mounting studs.
2. Install the two nuts (1) that secure the HVAC housing assembly to the dash panel. Tighten the nuts to 4.5
N.m (40 in. lbs.).
3. Install the rear floor duct. See INSTALLATION.
Fig. 110: Suction Line Assembly, Nuts, A/C Expansion Valve, Heater Hoses & Dash Panel
5. Install the nut (6) that secures the HVAC housing assembly to the engine compartment side of the dash
panel (5). Tighten the nut to 4.5 N.m (40 in. lbs.).
6. Remove the previously installed plugs or caps and connect the heater hoses (4) to the heater core tubes.
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7. Remove the tape or plugs from the refrigerant line fittings and the expansion valve ports.
8. Lubricate new rubber O-rings with clean refrigerant oil and install them onto the liquid and suction line
fittings. Use only the specified O-ring seals as they are made of special materials compatible to the R-
134a system. Use only refrigerant oil of the type recommended for the A/C compressor in the vehicle.
9. Connect the A/C liquid and suction line assembly (1) to the A/C expansion valve (3).
10. Install the nut (2) that secures the A/C liquid and suction line assembly to the A/C expansion valve.
Tighten the nut to 23 N.m (17 ft. lbs.).
12. If the heater core is being replaced, flush the cooling system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
13. Refill the engine cooling system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
14. Evacuate the refrigerant system. See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM EVACUATE.
15. Charge the refrigerant system. See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM EVACUATE.
HOUSING-AIR INLET
Fig. 111: Screw, Plastic Retaining Tabs, Air Inlet Housing & HVAC Housing
NOTE: Typical housing shown. RHD model similar.
1. Position the air inlet housing (3) to the top of the HVAC housing (4) and engage the front of the inlet
housing to the two plastic retaining tabs (2) located on the top of the HVAC housing.
2. Firmly push down on the rear of the air inlet housing and engage the inlet housing to the HVAC housing.
Make sure the two housings are fully engaged to each other.
3. Install the screw (1) that helps secure the rear of the air inlet housing to the HVAC housing. Tighten the
screw to 1.2 N.m (10 in. lbs.).
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MOTOR-BLOWER
DESCRIPTION
MOTOR-BLOWER
Fig. 112: Blower Motor, Squirrel Cage-Type Blower Wheel, Integral Wire Harness Connector & Integral
Mounting Tabs
NOTE: Typical blower motor shown,
The blower motor (1) is a 12-volt, direct current (DC) motor mounted within a plastic housing with three
integral mounting tabs (4), an integral wire harness connector (3) and a squirrel cage-type blower wheel (2) that
is secured to the blower motor shaft. The blower motor wheel is positioned within the HVAC air inlet housing,
which is mounted to the passenger side end of the HVAC housing.
The blower motor can be accessed for service from underneath the instrument panel.
OPERATION
MOTOR-BLOWER
The blower motor is used to control the velocity of air moving through the HVAC housing by spinning the
blower wheel within the HVAC air inlet housing at the selected speed.
The blower motor will operate whenever the ignition switch is in the Run position and the blower motor control
is in any position except Off. The blower motor receives battery current through the totally integrated power
module (TIPM) whenever the ignition switch is in the Run position.
Blower motor speed is controlled by regulating the ground path through or around the blower motor resistor and
through the blower motor control located within the A/C-heater control.
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The blower motor can be accessed for service from underneath the instrument panel.
NOTE: The blower motor is supplied with a 12V feed from the TIPM, through the blower
motor resistor, whenever the ignition switch is in the RUN position. Due to an
open circuit condition within the blower motor control switch the TIPM is
UNABLE to detect an OPEN circuit for the blower motor.
The blower motor control system is diagnosed using a scan tool (refer to HEATING & AIR
The blower motor and blower motor wheel are factory balanced as an assembly and cannot be adjusted or
repaired and must be replaced if found inoperative or damaged.
MOTOR-BLOWER
diagnosis or service. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in
NOTE: The blower motor is supplied with a 12V feed from the TIPM, through the blower
motor resistor, whenever the ignition switch is in the RUN position. Due to an
open circuit condition within the blower motor control switch the TIPM is
UNABLE to detect an OPEN circuit for the blower motor.
To determine if an open condition exists within the blower motor circuit wiring, it is necessary to disconnect the
negative battery cable and check for continuity within the blower motor circuits using an ohmmeter. For circuit
descriptions and diagrams, refer to Air Conditioning/Heater in SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS .
OPERATION
Possible causes of an inoperative blower motor include:
Open fuse
Inoperative blower motor resistor
Inoperative blower motor switch
Inoperative blower motor
Inoperative blower motor circuit wiring or wire harness connectors
NOISE
To determine if the blower motor is the source of the noise, simply switch the blower motor from Off to On. To
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verify that the blower motor is the source of the noise, unplug the blower motor wire harness connector and
operate the heater-A/C system. If the noise goes away, possible causes include:
Foreign material on fresh air inlet screen

Foreign material in blower wheel
Foreign material in HVAC housing
Improper blower motor mounting
Deformed or damaged blower wheel
Worn blower motor bearings or brushes
VIBRATION
Possible causes of a blower motor vibration include:
Improper blower motor mounting

Foreign material in blower wheel
Deformed or damaged blower wheel
Worn blower motor bearings
REMOVAL
MOTOR-BLOWER
NOTE: The blower motor is located on the bottom of the passenger side of the HVAC
housing. The blower motor can be removed from the vehicle without having to
remove the HVAC housing.
Fig. 113: HVAC Housing, Screws, Instrument Panel Wire Harness Connector & Blower Motor
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2. If equipped, remove the silencer from below the passenger side of the instrument panel. Refer to
REMOVAL .
3. From underneath the instrument panel, disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector (3) from
the blower motor (4).
4. Remove the three screws (2) that secure the blower motor to the bottom of the HVAC housing (1) and
remove the blower motor.
INSTALLATION
MOTOR-BLOWER
Fig. 114: HVAC Housing, Screws, Instrument Panel Wire Harness Connector & Blower Motor
1. Position the blower motor (4) into the bottom of the HVAC housing (1).
2. Install the three screws (2) that secure the blower motor to the HVAC housing. Tighten the screws to 1.2
N.m (10 in. lbs.).
3. Connect the instrument panel wire harness connector (3) to the blower motor.
4. If equipped, install the silencer below the passenger side of the instrument panel. Refer to
INSTALLATION .
OUTLET-AIR
DESCRIPTION
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OUTLET-AIR
Fig. 115: Defroster Air Outlets, Instrument Panel Top Cover, Side Window Demister Air Outlets,
Instrument Panel & Instrument Panel Air Outlets
There are two defroster air outlets (1) located in the instrument panel top cover (2). The airflow from the
defroster outlets is directed by fixed vanes and cannot be adjusted. The defroster air outlets are not serviceable
from the instrument panel top cover. Refer to REMOVAL .
There are two side window demister air outlets (3). One located at each end of the instrument panel (4) near the
A-pillars. The airflow from the side window demister air outlets is directed by fixed vanes and cannot be
adjusted. The side window demister air outlets are integral to the left and right side instrument panel air outlets
and cannot be serviced separately. See REMOVAL.
There are four instrument panel air outlets (5). One air outlet is located near each outboard end of the instrument
panel facing the rear of the vehicle and the other two outlets are located near the top of the instrument panel
center bezel. The left and right side instrument panel air outlets are serviced separately. See REMOVAL. The
instrument panel air outlets located at the center of the instrument panel are integral to the instrument panel
center bezel and cannot be serviced separately . Refer to REMOVAL . Each of the instrument panel air outlets
contain an air outlet grille (6) that is used to direct or shut off the flow of the conditioned air leaving the
instrument panel and cannot be serviced separately from the outlets.
REMOVAL
OUTLET-AIR
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2. Remove the defroster grille. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Depending on the air outlet being serviced, remove the instrument cluster bezel or passenger side air bag.
Refer to REMOVAL for Cluster Bezel, or REMOVAL for Passenger Airbag.
4. Remove the A-pillar trim molding from the side of the vehicle being serviced. Refer to REMOVAL .
5. Remove the screw (1) that secures the top of the air outlet (2) to the instrument panel (4).
6. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent (3), gently pry the lower portion of the air outlet rearward to
disengage the two metal retaining clips from the instrument panel and remove the outlet.
7. If required, carefully disengage the plastic retaining tabs that secure the air outlet grille to the back of air
outlet and remove the grille from the outlet.
INSTALLATION
OUTLET-AIR
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1. If removed, carefully install the air outlet grille onto the back of air outlet and engage the plastic retaining
tabs that secure grille to the outlet. Make sure the retaining tabs are fully engaged.
2. Position the instrument panel air outlet(s) to the instrument panel and engage the two metal retaining clips
to the instrument panel. Make sure the retainers are fully engaged.
3. Install the screw (1) that secures the top of the air outlet (2) to the instrument panel (4). Tighten the screw
to 1.2 N.m (10 in. lbs.).
4. Install the A-pillar trim molding(s). Refer to INSTALLATION .
5. Depending on the air outlet being serviced, install the instrument cluster bezel or passenger side air bag.
Refer to INSTALLATION for Cluster Bezel, or INSTALLATION for Passenger Airbag.
6. Install the defroster grille. Refer to INSTALLATION .
PLUMBING
DESCRIPTION
REFRIGERANT LINES
The A/C refrigerant lines and hoses are used to carry the refrigerant between the various A/C system
components. The refrigerant lines and hoses for the R-134a A/C system consist of a barrier-hose design with a
nylon tube sandwiched between rubber layers. The nylon tube helps to contain the R-134a refrigerant, which
has a small molecular structure. The ends of the refrigerant lines are made from lightweight aluminum and
braze-less fittings.
Any kinks or sharp bends in the refrigerant lines and hoses will reduce the capacity of the entire A/C system and
can reduce the flow of refrigerant within the system.
OPERATION
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REFRIGERANT LINES
High pressures are produced in a refrigerant system when the A/C compressor is operating. Extreme care must
be exercised to make sure that each of the refrigerant system connections is pressure-tight and leak free. It is a
good practice to inspect all flexible hose refrigerant lines at least once a year to make sure they are in good
condition and properly routed.
Depending on vehicle, model and market application, refrigerant lines are connected to each other or other A/C
system components with block-type or quick-connect type fittings. To ensure the integrity of the refrigerant
system, O-rings and/or gaskets may be used to seal the refrigerant system connections.
The refrigerant lines and hoses cannot be repaired and must be replaced if leaking or damaged.
WARNING
WARNING
WARNING: The A/C system contains refrigerant under high pressure. Repairs should
only be performed by qualified service personnel. Serious or fatal injury
may result from improper service procedures.
WARNING: Avoid breathing the refrigerant and refrigerant oil vapor or mist. Exposure
may irritate the eyes, nose, and/or throat. Wear eye protection when
servicing the A/C refrigerant system. Serious eye injury can result from
direct contact with the refrigerant. If eye contact occurs, seek medical
attention immediately.
WARNING: Do not expose the refrigerant to open flame. Poisonous gas is created
when refrigerant is burned. An electronic leak detector is recommended.
Serious or fatal injury may result from improper service procedures.
WARNING: If accidental A/C system discharge occurs, ventilate the work area before
resuming service. Large amounts of refrigerant released in a closed work
area will displace the oxygen and cause suffocation and serious or fatal
injury.
WARNING: The evaporation rate of R-134a refrigerant at average temperature and

altitude is extremely high. As a result, anything that comes in contact with
the refrigerant will freeze. Always protect the skin or delicate objects from
direct contact with the refrigerant.
WARNING: The R-134a service equipment or the vehicle refrigerant system should
not be pressure tested or leak tested with compressed air. Some mixtures
of air and R-134a have been shown to be combustible at elevated
pressures. These mixtures are potentially dangerous, and may result in
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fire or explosion causing property damage and serious or fatal injury.
WARNING: The engine cooling system is designed to develop internal pressures up

to 145 kilopascals (21 pounds per square inch). Do not remove or loosen
the coolant pressure cap, cylinder block drain plugs, radiator drain,
radiator hoses, heater hoses, or hose clamps while the engine cooling
system is hot and under pressure. Allow the vehicle to cool for a
minimum of 15 minutes before opening the cooling system for service.
Failure to observe this warning can result in serious burns from the
heated engine coolant.
CAUTION
CAUTION
CAUTION: Never add R-12 to a refrigerant system designed to use R-134a. Do not use
R-12 equipment or parts on an R-134a A/C system. These refrigerants are
not compatible and damage to the A/C system will result.
CAUTION: Never use R-12 refrigerant oil in an A/C system designed to use R-134a
refrigerant oil. These refrigerant oils are not compatible and damage to the
A/C system will result.
CAUTION: The use of A/C system sealers may result in damage to A/C refrigerant
recovery/evacuation/recharging equipment and/or A/C system. Many
federal, state/provincial and local regulations prohibit the recharge of A/C
systems with known leaks. DaimlerChrysler recommends the detection of
A/C system leaks through the use of approved leak detectors and
fluorescent leak detection dyes. Vehicles found with A/C system sealers
should be treated as contaminated and replacement of the entire A/C
refrigerant system is recommended. A/C systems found to be
contaminated with A/C system sealers, A/C stop-leak products or seal
conditioners voids the warranty for the A/C system.
CAUTION: Recover the refrigerant before opening any fitting or connection. Open the
fittings with caution, even after the system has been discharged. Never
open or loosen a connection before recovering the refrigerant.
CAUTION: If equipped, do not remove the secondary retention clip from any spring-
lock coupler connection while the refrigerant system is under pressure.
Recover the refrigerant before removing the secondary retention clip.
Open the fittings with caution, even after the system has been discharged.
Never open or loosen a connection before recovering the refrigerant.
CAUTION: The internal parts of the A/C system will remain stable as long as
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moisture-free refrigerant and refrigerant oil is used. Abnormal amounts of

dirt, moisture or air can upset the chemical stability. This may cause
operational troubles or even serious damage if present in more than very
small quantities. Before disconnecting a component, clean the outside of
the fittings thoroughly to prevent contamination from entering the
refrigerant system. Keep service tools and the work area clean. Do not
open the refrigerant system or uncap a replacement component until you
are ready to service the system. Immediately after disconnecting a
component from the refrigerant system, seal the open fittings with a cap or
plug. This will prevent contamination from entering the A/C system.
CAUTION: Refrigerant oil will absorb moisture from the atmosphere if left uncapped.
Do not open a container of refrigerant oil until you are ready to use it.
Replace the cap on the oil container immediately after using. Store
refrigerant oil only in a clean, airtight, and moisture-free container.
CAUTION: Do not overcharge the refrigerant system. Overcharging will cause

excessive compressor head pressure and can cause compressor noise
and A/C system failure.
REFRIGERANT SYSTEM LEAKS
WARNING: R-134a service equipment or vehicle A/C system should not be pressure
tested or leak tested with compressed air. Mixture of air and R-134a can
be combustible at elevated pressures. These mixtures are potentially
dangerous and may result in fire or explosion causing property damage
and possible serious or fatal injury.
Avoid breathing A/C refrigerant and lubricant vapor or mist. Exposure

may irritate eyes, nose and throat. Use only approved service equipment
meeting SAE requirements to discharge an R-134a system. If accidental
system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service.
NOTE: If the A/C system refrigerant charge is empty or low, a leak in the A/C system is
likely. Visually inspect all A/C lines, fittings and components for an oily residue.
Oil residue can be an indicator of an A/C system leak location.
NOTE: The only way to correctly determine if the A/C system is fully charged with
refrigerant to perform the A/C Performance Test. See A/C PERFORMANCE.
Connect a suitable manifold gauge set and determine if the static A/C system pressure is above or below 345
kPa (50 psi). See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM SERVICE EQUIPMENT. If less than 345 kPa (50 psi),
proceed to SYSTEM EMPTY. If greater than 345 kPa (50 psi), go to SYSTEM LOW.
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SYSTEM EMPTY
1. Evacuate the refrigerant system to the lowest degree of vacuum possible (approximately -88 kPa (- 26 in.
Hg) or greater vacuum). See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM EVACUATE. Determine if the system holds a
vacuum for 15 minutes. If the refrigerant system will not maintain vacuum level, proceed to step 2. If
vacuum is held, a leak is probably not present.
2. Prepare and dispense 0.284 kilograms (10 ounces) of R-134a refrigerant into the evacuated refrigerant
system. See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM CHARGE, and proceed to SYSTEM LOW .
SYSTEM LOW
1. Position the vehicle in a wind-free work area. This will aid in detecting small leaks.
2. Operate the heating-A/C system with the engine at idle under the following conditions for at least 5
minutes.
Doors or windows open
Transmission in Park or Neutral with the parking brake set (depending on transmission application)
A/C compressor engaged with A/C-heater controls set to Recirculation mode (max-A/C), full cool,
panel mode and high speed blower.
CAUTION: A leak detector only designed for R-12 refrigerant will not detect
leaks in an R-134a refrigerant system.
3. Shut the vehicle Off and wait 2-7 minutes. Then use an electronic leak detector that is designed to detect
R-134a refrigerant and search for leaks. Fittings, lines or components that appear to be oily usually
indicate a refrigerant leak. To inspect the A/C evaporator for leaks, insert the leak detector probe into the
passenger side floor duct. A dye for R-134a is available to aid in leak detection. Use only Chrysler
approved refrigerant dye.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
REFRIGERANT SYSTEM EVACUATE
NOTE: Special effort must be used to prevent moisture from entering the A/C system
oil. Moisture in the oil is very difficult to remove and will cause a reliability
problem with the A/C compressor.
If an A/C compressor designed to use R-134a refrigerant is left open to the atmosphere for an extended period
of time. It is recommended that the refrigerant oil be drained and replaced with new oil or a new A/C
compressor be used. This will eliminate the possibility of contaminating the refrigerant system.
If the refrigerant system has been open to the atmosphere, it must be evacuated before the system can be filled.
Moisture and air mixed with the refrigerant will raise the compressor head pressure above acceptable operating
levels. This will reduce the performance of the A/C system and damage the A/C compressor. Moisture will boil
at near room temperature when exposed to vacuum. To evacuate the refrigerant system:
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NOTE: When connecting the service equipment coupling to the line fitting, verify that
the valve of the coupling is fully closed. This will reduce the amount of effort
required to make the connection.
1. Recover the refrigerant system. See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM RECOVERY.

2. Connect a suitable charging station, refrigerant recovery machine or a manifold gauge set with vacuum
pump and refrigerant recovery equipment. See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM SERVICE EQUIPMENT.
3. Open the suction and discharge valves and start the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump should run a
minimum of 45 minutes prior to charge to eliminate all moisture in system. When the suction gauge reads
to the lowest degree of vacuum possible (approximately -88 kPa (- 26 in. Hg) or greater) for 30 minutes,
close all valves and turn off vacuum pump. If the system fails to reach specified vacuum, the refrigerant
system likely has a leak that must be corrected. If the refrigerant system maintains specified vacuum for
at least 30 minutes, start the vacuum pump, open the suction and discharge valves. Then allow the system
to evacuate an additional 10 minutes.
4. Close all valves. Turn off and disconnect the vacuum pump.
5. Charge the refrigerant system. See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM CHARGE.
REFRIGERANT SYSTEM SERVICE EQUIPMENT
injury or death.
WARNING: Eye protection must be worn when servicing an air conditioning

refrigerant system. Turn off (rotate clockwise) all valves on the equipment
being used, before connecting to or disconnecting from the refrigerant
system. Failure to observe these warnings may result in personal injury
or death.
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Fig. 118: R-134a Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Charging Station

When servicing the A/C system, a R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station that meets SAE
standard J2210 must be used (1). Contact an automotive service equipment supplier for refrigerant
recovery/recycling/charging equipment. Refer to the operating instructions supplied by the equipment
manufacturer for proper care and use of this equipment.
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Fig. 119: Manifold Gauge Set

A manifold gauge set (1) may be needed with some recovery/recycling/charging equipment. The manifold
gauge set should have manual shut-off valves (2 and 6), or automatic back-flow valves located at the service
port connector end of the manifold gauge set hoses (4 and 5). This will prevent refrigerant from being released
into the atmosphere.
MANIFOLD GAUGE SET CONNECTIONS
CAUTION: Do not use an R-12 manifold gauge set on an R-134a system. The
refrigerants are not compatible and system damage will result.
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LOW PRESSURE GAUGE HOSE - The low pressure hose (Blue with Black stripe) attaches to the
low-side service port. This port is located on the A/C suction line near the rear of the engine
compartment.
HIGH PRESSURE GAUGE HOSE - The high pressure hose (Red with Black stripe) attaches to the
high-side service port. This port is located on the A/C liquid line near the front of the engine
compartment.
RECOVERY, RECYCLING, EVACUATION AND CHARGING HOSE - The center manifold hose
(Yellow, or White, with Black stripe) is used to recover, evacuate, and charge the refrigerant system.
When the low or high pressure valves on the manifold gauge set are opened, the refrigerant in the system
will escape through this hose.
REFRIGERANT SYSTEM RECOVERY
to follow the warnings and cautions may result in serious or fatal injury.
Fig. 120: R-134a Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Charging Station

An R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station (1) that meets SAE standard J2210 must be used to
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recover the refrigerant from the R-134a refrigerant system. Refer to the operating instructions supplied by the
equipment manufacturer for the proper care and use of this equipment.
REFRIGERANT SYSTEM CHARGE
injury or death.
NOTE: The Underhood HVAC Specification Label contains the refrigerant fill
specification of the vehicle being serviced.
After all refrigerant system leaks have been repaired and the refrigerant system has been evacuated, a refrigerant
charge can be injected into the system. See REFRIGERANT CHARGE LEVEL or the Underhood HVAC
Specification Label for the proper amount of the refrigerant charge.
An R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station that meets SAE Standard J2210 must be used to
charge the refrigerant system with R-134a refrigerant. Refer to the operating instructions supplied by the
equipment manufacturer for proper care and use of this equipment.
CHARGING PROCEDURE
CAUTION: A small amount of refrigerant oil is removed from the A/C system each
time the refrigerant system is recovered and evacuated. Before charging
the A/C system, you MUST replenish any oil lost during the recovery
process. Refer the equipment manufacturer instructions for more
information.

2. Connect an R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station that meets SAE standard J2210 to the
refrigerant system.
3. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS or the Underhood HVAC Specification Label for the proper amount of the
refrigerant charge.
4. Measure the proper amount of refrigerant charge and heat it to 52°C (125°F) with the charging station.
See the operating instructions supplied by the equipment manufacturer for proper use of this equipment.
5. Open both the suction and discharge valves, then open the charge valve to allow the heated refrigerant to
flow into the system.
6. When the transfer of refrigerant has stopped, close both the suction and discharge valves.
7. If all of the refrigerant charge did not transfer from the dispensing device, open all of the windows in the
vehicle and set the heating-A/C system controls so that the A/C compressor is engaged and the blower
motor is operating at its lowest speed setting. Run the engine at a steady high idle (about 1400 RPM). If
the A/C compressor does not engage, test the compressor clutch circuits and repair as required.
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WARNING: Take care not to open the discharge (high pressure) valve at this
time. Failure to follow this warning may result in serious or fatal
injury.
8. Open the low-side valve to allow the remaining refrigerant to transfer to the refrigerant system.
9. Disconnect the charging station from the refrigerant system service ports.
10. Reinstall the caps onto the refrigerant system service ports.
COMPRESSOR-A/C
DESCRIPTION
COMPRESSOR-A/C
Fig. 121: A/C Compressor Components

The A/C system on models equipped with the 2.8L and 4.0L engine use a Zexel DKS-17DS A/C compressor
(1). This A/C compressor is a ten cylinder, double-acting swash plate-type compressor that uses an electrically
operated clutch (2) to engage and disengage the A/C compressor from the engine accessory drive belt.
The DKS-17DS A/C compressor has a fixed displacement of 175.5 cubic centimeters (10.7 cubic inches) and
has the suction and discharge ports (6) located on the compressor cylinder block (3). This A/C compressor also
has an integral high pressure relief valve (4) located on the cylinder head (5) and a label which identifies the use
of R-134a refrigerant.
VALVE-HIGH PRESSURE RELIEF-A/C COMPRESSOR
A high pressure relief valve is located on the A/C compressor. This mechanical valve is designed to vent
refrigerant from the A/C system to protect against damage to the A/C compressor and other A/C system
components, caused by condenser air flow restriction or an overcharge of refrigerant.
COMPRESSOR-A/C
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Fig. 122: A/C Compressor, Discharge Ports & Compressor Cylinder Head
The A/C system on models equipped with the 3.7L engine use a Visteon HS-18 A/C compressor (1). This A/C
compressor is a 10 cylinder reciprocating swash plate-type compressor that uses an electrically operated clutch
to engage and disengage the A/C compressor from the engine accessory drive belt.
The HS-18 A/C compressor has a fixed displacement of 180 cubic centimeters (10.9 cubic inches) and has the
suction and discharge ports (2) located on the compressor cylinder head (3) at the rear of the compressor and a
label which identifies the use of R-134a refrigerant.
OPERATION
VALVE-HIGH PRESSURE RELIEF-A/C COMPRESSOR
The high pressure relief valve vents refrigerant from the A/C system when a discharge pressure of 3430 to 3930
kPa (497 to 570 psi) or above is reached. The high pressure relief valve closes with a minimum discharge
pressure of 2990 kPa (4370 psi) is reached.
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The high pressure relief valve vents only enough refrigerant to reduce the A/C system pressure, and then re-
seats itself. The majority of the refrigerant is conserved in the A/C system. If the high pressure relief valve vents
refrigerant, it does not mean the valve is faulty.
The high pressure relief valve is factory-calibrated and cannot be adjusted or repaired, and must not be removed
or otherwise disturbed. The valve is only serviced as a part of the A/C compressor.
COMPRESSOR-A/C
The A/C compressor is driven by the engine through an electric clutch, drive pulley and belt arrangement. The
A/C compressor is lubricated by refrigerant oil that is circulated throughout the refrigerant system with the
refrigerant.
The A/C compressor draws in low-pressure refrigerant vapor from the A/C evaporator through its suction port.
It then compresses the refrigerant into a high-pressure, high-temperature refrigerant vapor, which is then
pumped to the A/C condenser through the compressor discharge port.
CAUTION: Be certain to adjust the refrigerant system oil level when replacing an A/C
compressor. See REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL. Failure to properly adjust the
refrigerant oil level can prevent the A/C system from operating as
designed and can cause serious A/C compressor damage.
CAUTION: The A/C receiver/drier must be replaced if an internal failure of the A/C
compressor has occurred. Failure to replace the A/C receiver/drier can
cause serious damage to the replacement A/C compressor.
The A/C compressor cannot be repaired and must be replaced if inoperative or damaged. The compressor
clutch, pulley and bearing assembly, and clutch field coil are available for service. If an internal failure of the
A/C compressor has occurred, the A/C receiver/drier must also be replaced. See REMOVAL.
COMPRESSOR-A/C
When investigating an A/C system related noise, you must first know the conditions under which the noise
occurs. These conditions include: weather, vehicle speed, transmission in gear or neutral, engine speed, engine
temperature, and any other special conditions. Noises that develop during A/C operation can often be
misleading. For example: What sounds like a failed front engine bearing or connecting rod, may be caused by
loose bolts, nuts, mounting brackets or a loose compressor clutch assembly.
Drive belts are speed sensitive. At different engine speeds and depending upon drive belt tension, drive belts
can develop noises that are mistaken for an A/C compressor noise. Improper drive belt tension can cause a
misleading noise when the compressor clutch is engaged, which may not occur when the compressor clutch is
disengaged. Check the accessory drive belt condition and tension as described in Cooling before beginning this
procedure.
1. Select a quiet area for testing. Duplicate the complaint conditions as much as possible. Turn the A/C
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compressor On and Off several times to clearly identify the compressor noise. Listen to the A/C
compressor while the clutch is engaged and disengaged. Probe the A/C compressor with an engine
stethoscope or a long screwdriver with the handle held to your ear to better localize the source of the
noise.
2. Loosen all of the compressor mounting hardware and retighten. Check the compressor clutch retainer. Be
certain that the clutch field coil is mounted securely to the A/C compressor, and that the clutch plate and
pulley are properly aligned and have the correct air gap.
3. To duplicate high-ambient temperature conditions (high head pressure), restrict the air flow through the
A/C condenser. Install a manifold gauge set or a scan tool to be certain that the discharge pressure does
not exceed 2760 kPa (400 psi).
4. Check the refrigerant system plumbing for incorrect routing, rubbing or interference, which can cause
unusual noises. Also check the refrigerant lines and hoses for kinks or sharp bends that will restrict
refrigerant flow, which can cause noises. See REFRIGERANT LINES.
5. If the noise is from opening and closing of the high pressure relief valve, recover, evacuate and recharge
the refrigerant system. See REFRIGERANT SYSTEM RECOVERY, and REFRIGERANT
SYSTEM EVACUATE .
6. If the high pressure relief valve still does not seat properly, replace the A/C compressor. See
REMOVAL.
REMOVAL
2.8L ENGINE
injury or death.
NOTE: The A/C compressor can be removed from the engine and repositioned without
disconnecting the refrigerant lines or discharging the refrigerant system.
Discharging is not necessary if servicing the A/C clutch or various engine
components.
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Fig. 123: Refrigerant Line System


3. Remove the air cleaner housing. Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body and the charge air cooler.
5. Remove the battery. Refer to REMOVAL .
6. Remove the radiator fan and fan shroud. Refer to REMOVAL .
8. Remove the generator. Refer to REMOVAL .
9. On LHD models, remove the two nuts (2) that secure the A/C suction line (4) to the top of the engine.
10. Remove the nuts (5) that secures the A/C suction line and A/C discharge line (1) to the A/C compressor
(3).
11. Disconnect the A/C suction and discharge lines from the A/C compressor and remove and discard the O-
ring seals and gaskets.
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Fig. 124: A/C Clutch Field Coil Connector, Bolts & A/C Compressor
12. Disconnect the engine wire harness from the A/C clutch field coil connector (1).
13. Support the A/C compressor (3) and remove the three bolts (2) that secure the compressor to the engine.
14. Remove the A/C compressor from the engine compartment.
15. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened refrigerant line fittings and the compressor ports.
4.0L ENGINE
to follow the warnings and cautions could result in possible serious or
fatal injury.
components.
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Fig. 125: A/C Discharge Line, Nuts, A/C Suction Line & A/C Compressor

3. Remove the air cleaner housing (refer to REMOVAL for 3.7L - SERVICE INFORMATION or
REMOVAL for 4.0L - SERVICE INFORMATION ).
5. Remove the nuts (2) that secure the A/C discharge line (1) and the A/C suction line (3) to the A/C
compressor (4).
6. Disconnect the A/C discharge and suction lines from the A/C compressor and remove and discard the O-
7. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened refrigerant line fittings and the compressor ports.
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Fig. 126: Removing/Installing Nut From Through Bolt On Right Side Engine Mount

9. Remove the nut (3) from the through bolt (1) on the right side engine mount (3).
CAUTION: Do not completely remove the right side motor mount through bolt
when performing this procedure. The bolt supports the engine at the
lower mount and removal of the bolt will allow the engine to sit
further down in the frame, which may cause possible damage to the
engine and various other components.
10. Support the engine with a suitable jack and partially remove the through bolt to allow the right side of the
engine to be raised off of the motor mount.

11. Remove the jack stand and lower the vehicle.

CAUTION: Use care when raising the engine when performing this procedure.
Be sure to protect the bottom of the engine and various other
components from damage.
13. Using a suitable floor jack and a block of wood under the oil pan to protect from damage, raise the right
side of the engine to gain access to remove the stud (3) that secures the lower front of the A/C compressor
(2) to the accessory drive belt bracket.
14. Remove the nut (4) and stud that secures the lower front of the A/C compressor to the accessory drive
belt bracket.
15. Remove the bolt (7) that secures the rear of the A/C compressor to the engine.
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16. Support the A/C compressor and remove the nut (6) and stud (5) that secures the upper front of the A/C
compressor to the accessory drive belt bracket and remove the compressor.
3.7L ENGINE
injury or death.
components.
Fig. 128: Removing/Installing Nuts That Secure A/C Suction Line And A/C Discharge Line To A/C
Compressor

REMOVAL or 4.0L - SERVICE INFORMATION ).
5. Remove the nuts (2) that secure the A/C suction line (1) and A/C discharge line (3) to the A/C
compressor (4).
6. Disconnect the A/C suction and discharge lines from the A/C compressor and remove and discard the O-
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8. Loosen the bolt (6) that secures the compressor bracket (8) to the engine front cover (7).
9. Remove the bolt (1) that secures the A/C compressor (2) to the intake manifold (9).
10. Remove the two bolts (4 and 5) that secure the A/C compressor to the front of the engine.
11. Remove the A/C compressor from the engine and install plugs in, or tape over the opened refrigerant line
fittings and the compressor ports.
INSTALLATION
3.7L ENGINE
CAUTION: If the A/C compressor is being replaced, be certain to adjust the refrigerant
system oil level. See REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL. Failure to properly adjust
the refrigerant oil level will prevent the A/C system from operating as
Capacities chart to determine how much oil should be removed from the new
A/C compressor. See REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL.
NOTE: Replacement of the refrigerant line O-ring seals and gaskets is required anytime
a refrigerant line is opened. Failure to replace the rubber O-ring seals and metal
gaskets could result in a refrigerant system leak.
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1. If the A/C compressor (2) is being replaced, the refrigerant oil in the old compressor must be first drained
and measured. Then the oil in the new A/C compressor must be drained. Finally, the new compressor
must be refilled with the same amount of new refrigerant oil that was drained out of the old compressor.
See REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL for more information. When replacing multiple A/C system
components, refer to the Refrigerant Oil Capacities chart to determine how much oil should be added to
the refrigerant system Use only refrigerant oil of the type recommended for the A/C compressor in the
vehicle.
2. Position the A/C compressor to the intake manifold (9) and the engine front cover (7).
3. Install and hand tighten the three compressor retaining bolts (1, 4 and 5).
4. Tighten the bolts in the following sequence:
 The rear bolt (1) to 55 N.m (41 ft. lbs.).
 The front inboard bolt (5) to 40 N.m (30 ft. lbs.).
 The front outboard bolt (4) to 55 N.m (41 ft. lbs.).
5. Tighten the bolt (6) that secures the compressor bracket (8) to the engine front cover to 40 N.m (30 ft.
lbs.).
6. Connect the engine wire harness to the A/C clutch field coil connector (3).
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Compressor
7. Remove the tape or plugs from the opened refrigerant line fittings and the compressor ports.
8. Lubricate new O-ring seals with clean refrigerant oil and install them and new gaskets on the refrigerant
line fittings. Use only the specified O-rings as they are made of a special material for the R-134a system.
Use only refrigerant oil of the type recommended for the A/C compressor in the vehicle.
9. Connect the A/C suction line (1) and the A/C discharge line (3) to the A/C compressor (4).
10. Install the nuts (2) that secure the A/C suction and discharge lines to the A/C compressor. Tighten the
nuts to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
12. Install the air cleaner housing (refer to INSTALLATION for 3.7L - SERVICE INFORMATION or
INSTALLATION for 4.0L - SERVICE INFORMATION ).
4.0L ENGINE
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a refrigerant line is disconnected. Failure to replace the rubber O-ring seals and
metal gaskets could result in a refrigerant system leak.

vehicle.
CAUTION: Use care when raising the engine when performing this procedure.
Be sure to protect the bottom of the engine and various other
components from damage.
2. Using a suitable floor jack and a block of wood under the oil pan to protect from damage, raise the right
side of the engine until the stud (3) that secures the lower front of the A/C compressor to the accessory
drive belt bracket can be installed.
3. Install the stud that secures the lower front of the A/C compressor to the accessory drive belt bracket.
Tighten the stud securely.
4. Install the stud (5) that secures the upper front of the compressor to the accessory drive belt bracket.
Tighten the stud securely.
5. Loosely install the nuts (4 and 6) that secure the front of the A/C compressor to the accessory drive belt
bracket.
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6. Loosely install the bolt (7) that secures the rear of the A/C compressor to the engine.
7. Tighten each of the compressor fasteners to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.) using the following sequence:
 The upper nut at front of compressor.
 The lower nut at front of compressor.
 The bolt at the rear of compressor.
8. Lower the right side of the engine and remove the jack and wood block.
10. Lower the engine and remove the floor jack.
Fig. 133: Removing/Installing Nut From Through Bolt On Right Side Engine Mount

12. Support the engine with a suitable jack and install the through bolt (1) and nut (3) to the right side engine
mount (3). Tighten the nut to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
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13. Remove the jack stand and lower the vehicle.

16. Connect the A/C discharge line (1) and the A/C suction line (3) to the A/C compressor (4).
17. Install the nuts (2) that secure the A/C discharge and suction lines to the A/C compressor. Tighten the
2.8L ENGINE
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Fig. 135: A/C Clutch Field Coil Connector, Bolts & A/C Compressor
vehicle.
2. Position the A/C compressor onto the engine.
3. Install the three bolts (2) that secure the A/C compressor to the engine. Tighten the bolts to 28 N.m (21 ft.
lbs.).
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7. Connect the A/C suction line (4) and A/C discharge line (1) to the A/C compressor (3).
8. Install the nuts (5) that secure the A/C suction and discharge lines to the A/C compressor. Tighten the
9. On LHD models, install the two nuts (2) that secure the A/C suction line to the top of the engine. Tighten
the nuts to 4.5 N.m (40 in. lbs.).
10. Install the generator. Refer to INSTALLATION .
12. Install the radiator fan and fan shroud. Refer to INSTALLATION .
13. Install the battery. Refer to INSTALLATION .
14. Install the air inlet tube to the throttle body and the charge air cooler. Tighten the clamps securely.
15. Install the air cleaner housing. Refer to INSTALLATION .
CONDENSER-A/C
DESCRIPTION
CONDENSER-A/C
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Fig. 137: A/C Condenser Components

The A/C condenser (1) is located in the front of the engine compartment behind the front fascia. The A/C
condenser is a heat exchanger that allows the high-pressure refrigerant gas being discharged by the A/C
compressor to give up its heat to the air passing over the condenser fins, which causes the refrigerant to cool
and change to a liquid state.
The A/C condenser is equipped with mounting provisions (2) to attach it to the radiator and has tapping blocks
(3) for the A/C discharge line and for the receiver/drier (5). A spring lock coupler is used on the condenser
outlet tube (4) for the A/C liquid line connection. See DESCRIPTION for more information.
On automatic transmission equipped vehicles, the A/C condenser is also equipped with an integral automatic
transmission cooler (6).
OPERATION
CONDENSER-A/C
When air passes through the fins of the A/C condenser, the high-pressure refrigerant gas within the A/C
condenser gives up its heat. The refrigerant then condenses as it leaves the A/C condenser and becomes a high-
pressure liquid. The volume of air flowing over the condenser fins is critical to the proper cooling performance
of the A/C system. Therefore, it is important that there are no objects placed in front of the radiator grille
openings at the front of the vehicle or foreign material on the condenser fins that might obstruct proper air flow.
Also, any factory-installed air seals or shrouds must be properly reinstalled following radiator or A/C condenser
service.
The A/C condenser has no serviceable parts. The O-ring seals used on the connections are made from a special
type of rubber not affected by R-134a refrigerant. The O-ring seals and gaskets must be replaced whenever a
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refrigerant line is removed from the A/C condenser.
The A/C condenser cannot be repaired and must be replaced if leaking or damaged.
REMOVAL
CONDENSER-A/C
injury or death.
CAUTION: Before removing the A/C condenser, note the location of each of the
radiator/condenser air seals. These air seals are used to direct air through
the A/C condenser and radiator. The air seals must be reinstalled in their
proper locations in order for the A/C and engine cooling systems to
perform as designed.
Fig. 138: A/C Liquid Line & Condenser Tube


3. Remove the engine air cleaner housing (refer to REMOVAL for 3.7L - SERVICE INFORMATION or
4. Remove the secondary retaining clip and using the proper A/C line disconnect tool (Special Tool Kit
7193 or equivalent), disconnect the A/C liquid line (1) from the condenser tube (2). See REMOVAL.
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Fig. 139: Radiator, Bolts, A/C Condenser, Nut & A/C Discharge Line
NOTE: Upper condenser retaining bracket and bolt shown. Lower retaining
bracket and bolt similar.
5. Remove the grille. Refer to REMOVAL .

6. If equipped with an automatic transmission, disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the
transmission cooler portion of the A/C condenser. Refer to REMOVAL .
7. Position the right side condenser air seal out of the way to gain access to the discharge line fitting and the
lower condenser retaining bolt.
NOTE: Rotate and tilt the A/C discharge line as necessary to disconnect it from
the A/C condenser.
8. Remove the nut (4) that secures the A/C discharge line (5) to the A/C condenser (3) and disconnect the
discharge line.
9. Remove the two bolts (2) that secure the A/C condenser to the right side of the radiator (1).
10. Carefully lift the A/C condenser straight up to disengage the condenser mounting brackets from the
radiator and remove the condenser from the vehicle.
11. If required, remove the A/C receiver/drier from the A/C condenser. See REMOVAL.
12. Remove and discard the O-ring seals and gasket and install plugs in, or tape over the opened refrigerant
line fittings and the condenser and receiver/drier ports.
INSTALLATION
CONDENSER-A/C
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CAUTION: The radiator/condenser air seals must be reinstalled in their proper

locations in order for the A/C and engine cooling systems to perform as
designed.
NOTE: If only the A/C condenser is being replaced, add 30 milliliters (1 fluid ounce) of
NOTE: Upper condenser retaining bracket and bolt shown. Lower retaining bracket and
bolt similar.
1. Remove the tape or plugs from the opened refrigerant line fittings and the receiver/drier and condenser
ports.
2. Lubricate new rubber O-ring seals with clean refrigerant oil and install them and a new gasket onto the
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refrigerant line fittings. Use only the specified O-rings as they are made of a special material for the R-
3. If removed, install the A/C receiver/drier onto the A/C condenser (3). See INSTALLATION.
4. Position the A/C condenser into the engine compartment and install it onto the condenser mounting
brackets.
5. Install the two bolts (2) that secure the A/C condenser to the right side of the radiator (1). Tighten the
bolts to 5 N.m (44 in. lbs.).
NOTE: Rotate and tilt the A/C discharge line as necessary to connect it to the A/C
condenser.
6. Connect the A/C discharge line (5) to the A/C condenser and install the retaining nut (4). Tighten the nut
to 22.5 N.m (200 in. lbs.).
7. Reposition the right side condenser air seal.
8. If equipped with an automatic transmission, connect the transmission cooler lines to the transmission
cooler portion of the A/C condenser. Refer to INSTALLATION .

10. Connect the A/C liquid line (1) to the condenser tube (2) and install the secondary retaining clip. See
INSTALLATION.
11. Install the engine air cleaner housing (refer to INSTALLATION for 3.7L - SERVICE INFORMATION
or INSTALLATION for 4.0L - SERVICE INFORMATION ).
14. If the A/C condenser is being replaced, add 30 milliliters (1 fluid ounce) of refrigerant oil to the
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CORE-HEATER
DESCRIPTION
CORE-HEATER
Fig. 142: Heater Core, Metal Retaining Clamps & Heater Core Tubes
The heater core (1) is mounted into the HVAC air distribution housing, located behind the instrument panel.
The heater core is a heat exchanger made of rows of tubes and fins. The heater core is secured to the air
distribution housing by four plastic retaining tabs. The heater core tubes (3) are attached to the heater core by
use of metal retaining clamps (2) and rubber O-ring seals.
The heater core tubes are not serviced separately from the heater core. The air distribution housing must be
removed from the vehicle to service the heater core.
OPERATION
CORE-HEATER
Engine coolant is circulated through the heater hoses to the heater core at all times. As the coolant flows
through the heater core, heat is removed from the engine and is transferred to the heater core tubes and fins. Air
directed through the heater core picks up the heat from the heater core fins. The blend-air door allows control of
the heater output air temperature by regulating the amount of air flowing through the heater core. The blower
motor speed controls the volume of air flowing through the HVAC housing.
The heater core cannot be repaired and it must be replaced if inoperative, leaking or damaged.
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REMOVAL
CORE-HEATER
injury or death.

2. Remove the air distribution housing from the HVAC housing. See REMOVAL.
3. Remove the two screws (1) that secure the upper front passenger side floor duct (7) to the passenger side
of the air distribution housing (8) and remove the duct.
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must be replaced.
4. Carefully remove the foam seal (4) from the heater core tube flange (5). If the seal is deformed or
5. Remove the screw (2) that secures the heater core tube flange to the air distribution housing.
6. Disengage the plastic retainer (5) from around the heater core tubes (6) and remove the flange.
7. Disengage the four plastic retaining tabs (1) that secure the heater core (2) to the passenger side of the air
distribution housing (3) and carefully remove the heater core from the housing.
INSTALLATION
CORE-HEATER
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1. Carefully install the heater core (2) into the passenger side of the air distribution housing (3) and engage
the four plastic retainer tabs (1) that secure the heater core to the housing. Make sure the retaining tabs are
fully engaged.

2. Position the heater core tube flange (4) over the heater core tubes (6) and onto the to the passenger side of
3. Engage the plastic retainer (5) around the heater core tubes. Make sure the retainer is fully engaged
around the tubes.
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4. Install the screw (2) that secure the heater core tube flange to the air distribution housing. Tighten the
5. Install the upper front passenger side floor duct (7) onto the air distribution housing and install the two
retaining screws (1). Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.).
must be replaced.
6. Install the foam seal (3) onto the heater core tube flange.
7. Install the air distribution housing onto the HVAC housing. See INSTALLATION.
CORE-VALVE-SERVICE PORT
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 147: Low-Side Service Port, A/C Suction Line, High-Side Service Port & A/C Liquid Line
NOTE: 3.7L LHD model shown. 2.8L , 4.0L and RHD models similar.
Refrigerant system service ports are used to recover, recycle, evacuate, charge and test the A/C refrigerant
system. Unique sizes are used on the two service ports for the R-134a refrigerant system to ensure the system is
not accidentally contaminated with R-12 refrigerant or by service equipment used for R-12 refrigerant.
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The low-side service port (1) is located on the A/C suction line (2) at either the rear of the engine compartment
or near the A/C compressor, depending on engine and market. The high-side service port (3) is located on the
A/C liquid line (4) near the front of the engine compartment. Both the high-side and low-side A/C service port
valve cores are serviceable.
NOTE: The protective cap aids in sealing the service port and helps to protect the
refrigerant system from contamination. Remember to always reinstall the
protective caps onto the service ports when refrigerant system service is
complete.
Each of the service ports has a threaded plastic protective cap installed over it from the factory. The service port
caps are serviceable items.
REMOVAL
to follow the warnings and cautions may result in serious or fatal injury.
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Fig. 148: Protective Cap, Service Port & Valve Core

NOTE: Typical A/C service port shown.
1. Remove the protective cap (1) from the service port (2).
3. Using a Schrader-type valve core tool, remove the valve core (3) from the service port.
4. Install a plug in, or tape over the opened service port(s).
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 149: Protective Cap, Service Port & Valve Core

NOTE: Typical A/C service port shown.
1. Lubricate the valve core (3) with clean refrigerant oil prior to installation. Use only refrigerant oil of the
type recommended for the A/C compressor in the vehicle.
2. Remove the tape or plug from the service port (2).
CAUTION: A valve core that is not fully seated in the A/C service port can result
in damage to the valve during refrigerant system evacuation and
charge. Such damage may result in a loss of system refrigerant while
uncoupling the charge adapters.
3. Using a Schrader-type valve core tool, install and tighten the valve core into the service port(s).
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NOTE: The protective cap helps aid in service port sealing and helps protect the
refrigerant system from contamination. Remember to always reinstall the
protective cap onto the service port when refrigerant system service is
complete.
6. Install the protective cap (1) onto the service port.
COUPLER-REFRIGERANT LINE
DESCRIPTION
COUPLER- REFRIGERANT LINE
Fig. 150: A/C Liquid Line, A/C Condenser Outlet Tube & Spring-Lock Type Refrigerant Line Coupler
The A/C liquid line (1) is attached to the A/C condenser outlet tube (2) by use of a spring-lock type refrigerant
line coupler (3). A secondary retaining clip is installed over the connected coupler for added protection.
The spring-lock refrigerant line coupler requires a special disconnect tool for disengaging the two coupler
halves.
OPERATION
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Fig. 151: Refrigerant Line Coupler Components

The spring-lock type refrigerant line coupler is held together by a garter spring (6) inside a circular cage (7) on
the male half of the fitting (1). When the two coupler halves are connected, the flared end of the female fitting
(2) slips behind the garter spring inside the cage on the male fitting. The garter spring and cage prevent the
flared end of the female fitting from pulling out of the cage. Some applications use a connection indicator ring
(4) to help indicate when the two coupler halves are fully connected.
O-rings (8) are used to seal the coupler connections. These O-rings are compatible with R-134a refrigerant and
must be replaced with O-rings made of the same material.
A secondary retaining clip (3) is installed over the connected coupler (5) for added protection.
REMOVAL
injury or death.
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Fig. 152: Coupler Cage, Coupler, Garter Spring & Refrigerant Line Coupler
2. Remove the secondary retaining clip from the spring-lock type refrigerant line coupler.
3. Fit the proper size A/C line disconnect tool (Special Tool Kit 7193 or equivalent) over the coupler cage
(1).
4. Close the two halves of the A/C line disconnect tool around the coupler (2).
NOTE: The garter spring may not release if the A/C line disconnect tool is cocked
while pushing it into the coupler cage opening.
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5. Push the A/C line disconnect tool into the open side of the coupler cage to expand the garter spring (3).
Once the garter spring is expanded, pull on the refrigerant line attached to the female half of the coupler
until the flange on the female fitting is separated from the garter spring and cage on the male fitting.
6. Open and remove the A/C line disconnect tool from the refrigerant line coupler (4).
INSTALLATION
Fig. 153: Refrigerant Line Coupler Components

1. Clean any dirt or foreign material from the spring-lock type refrigerant line coupler.
2. Check to make sure that the garter spring (6) is located within the cage (7) of the male half of the
refrigerant line coupler (1), and that the garter spring is not damaged.
 If the garter spring is missing, install a new spring by pushing it into the coupler cage opening.
 If the garter spring is damaged, remove it from the coupler cage with a small hook (DO NOT use a
screwdriver) and install a new garter spring.
CAUTION: Use only the specified O-rings as they are made of a special material
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for the R-134a system. The use of any other O-rings may allow the
connection to leak.
3. Install new O-rings (8) on the male half of the refrigerant line coupler.
4. Lubricate the O-rings, and the inside of the female half of the refrigerant line coupler (2) with clean R-
134a refrigerant oil. Use only refrigerant oil of the type recommended for the A/C compressor in the
vehicle.
5. Position the female half of the coupler over the male half of the coupler.
6. Push together firmly on the two halves of the refrigerant line coupler until the garter spring in the cage on
the male half of the coupler snaps over the flanged end on the female half of the coupler.
7. Make sure that the refrigerant line coupler is fully engaged by firmly pulling the refrigerant lines away
from each other on both sides of the coupler.
8. Install the secondary retaining clip (3) over connected coupler cage (5).
EVAPORATOR-A/C
DESCRIPTION
EVAPORATOR-A/C
Fig. 154: A/C Evaporator Assembly

The A/C evaporator (1) and its insulator (2) for the heating-A/C system is located within the HVAC housing,
behind the instrument panel. The A/C evaporator is positioned in the HVAC housing so that all air entering the
housing must pass over the evaporator fins before it is distributed through the heater core and heating-A/C
system ducts and outlets. However, air passing over the evaporator fins will only be conditioned when the A/C
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compressor is engaged and circulating refrigerant through the A/C evaporator.
The A/C evaporator tubes (3) are connected and sealed to the A/C expansion valve by use of rubber O-rings (4)
and a tapping block (5).
The A/C evaporator can only be serviced by removing and disassembling the HVAC housing.
OPERATION
EVAPORATOR-A/C
Refrigerant enters the A/C evaporator from the A/C expansion valve as a low-temperature, low-pressure
mixture of liquid and gas. As air flows over the fins of the A/C evaporator, the humidity in the air condenses on
the fins, and the heat from the air is absorbed by the refrigerant. Heat absorption causes the refrigerant to boil
and vaporize. The refrigerant becomes a low-pressure gas when it leaves the A/C evaporator.
a refrigerant line or expansion valve is disconnected. Failure to replace the
rubber O-ring seals and metal gaskets could result in a refrigerant system leak.
The A/C evaporator has no serviceable parts except for the O-ring seals. The O-ring seals used on the
connections are made from a special type of rubber not affected by R-134a refrigerant. The O-ring seals must be
replaced whenever the A/C expansion valve is removed from the A/C evaporator.
The A/C evaporator cannot be repaired and must be replaced if leaking or damaged.
REMOVAL
EVAPORATOR-A/C
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2. Disassemble the HVAC housing. See DISASSEMBLY.
NOTE: If the foam insulator around the A/C evaporator is deformed or damaged,
the insulator must be replaced.
3. Carefully lift the A/C evaporator (1) and the foam insulator (2) out of the lower half of the HVAC
housing (3).
NOTE: If the rubber seal around the evaporator tubes and tapping block is
deformed or damaged, the seal must be replaced.
4. If required, remove the rubber seal (4) from around the evaporator tubes and tapping block (5).
INSTALLATION
EVAPORATOR-A/C
NOTE: If only the A/C evaporator is being replaced, add 60 milliliters (2 fluid ounces) of
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NOTE: Make sure the rubber seal for the evaporator tubes and tapping block is
properly positioned in the HVAC housing opening.
1. If removed, install the rubber seal (4) over the evaporator tubes and tapping block (5).
NOTE: Make sure that the foam insulator around the A/C evaporator is properly
positioned within the HVAC housing.
2. Carefully install the A/C evaporator (1) and foam insulator (2) into the lower half of the HVAC housing
(3).
3. Assemble the HVAC housing. See ASSEMBLY.
5. If the A/C evaporator is being replaced, add 60 milliliters (2 fluid ounces) of refrigerant oil to the
LINE-A/C DISCHARGE
DESCRIPTION
LINE-A/C DISCHARGE
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Fig. 157: A/C Discharge Line, Metal Gaskets & Rubber O-Ring Seals
NOTE: 4.0L LHD model shown. Other models similar.
The A/C discharge line (1) is the refrigerant line that carries refrigerant from the A/C compressor to the A/C
condenser.
The A/C discharge line has no serviceable parts except for the metal gaskets (2) and rubber O-ring seals (3).
The O-ring seals used on the connections are made from a special type of rubber not affected by R-134a
refrigerant. The O-ring seals and gaskets must be replaced whenever the A/C discharge line is removed and
installed.
The A/C discharge line cannot be repaired and must be replaced if leaking or damaged.
REMOVAL
2.8L ENGINE
injury or death.
CAUTION: Before removing the A/C discharge line, note the location of the right side
condenser air seal. This air seal is to direct air through the A/C condenser
and radiator. The air sealsmust be reinstalled in its proper location in
order for the A/C and engine cooling systems to perform as designed.
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4. Remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body and position it out of the way.
5. Remove the battery for clearance. Refer to REMOVAL .
6. Remove the nut (5) that secures the A/C discharge line (1) to the A/C compressor (3).
7. Disconnect the A/C discharge line from the A/C compressor and remove and discard the O-ring seal and
gasket.
8. Disengage the A/C discharge line from the plastic retaining clip located on the right side of the fan
shroud.
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Fig. 159: Removing/Installing Nut That Secures A/C Discharge Line To A/C Condenser

10. Position the right side condenser air seal out of the way to gain access to the discharge line fitting.
11. Remove the nut (3) that secures the A/C discharge line (1) to the A/C condenser (2).
NOTE: Rotate and tilt the A/C discharge line as necessary to disconnect it from
the A/C condenser.
12. Disconnect the A/C discharge line from the condenser and remove and discard the O-ring seal and gasket.
13. Remove the A/C discharge line from the engine compartment and install plugs in, or tape over the opened
discharge line fittings and the compressor and condenser ports.
4.0L ENGINE
injury or death.

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gasket.

8. Remove the bolt (2) that secures the A/C condenser to the right side of the radiator (1).
9. For clearance, position the A/C condenser toward the left side of the vehicle and then disconnect the A/C
discharge line from the condenser.
10. Remove and discard the O-ring seal and gasket from the discharge line fitting.
3.7L ENGINE
injury or death.
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Compressor

gasket.

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8. Remove the bolt (2) that secures the A/C condenser to the right side of the radiator (1).
9. For clearance, position the A/C condenser toward the left side of the vehicle and then disconnect the A/C
discharge line from the condenser.
10. Remove and discard the O-ring seal and gasket from the discharge line fitting.
INSTALLATION
3.7L ENGINE
1. Remove the tape or plugs from the opened discharge line fittings and compressor and condenser ports.
2. Lubricate new rubber O-ring seals with clean refrigerant oil and install them and new gaskets onto the
discharge line fittings. Use only the specified O-rings as they are made of a special material for the R-
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3. For clearance, position the A/C condenser (3) toward the left side of the vehicle.
4. Connect the A/C discharge line (5) to the A/C condenser and install the retaining nut (4) hand tight.
5. Reposition the A/C condenser and install the bolt (2) that secures the condenser to the right side of the
radiator (1). Tighten the bolt to 5 N.m (44 in. lbs.).
6. Tighten the nut that secures the A/C discharge line to the A/C condenser to 22.5 N.m (200 in. lbs.).
Compressor
8. Connect the A/C discharge line (3) to the A/C compressor (4).
9. Install the nut (2) that secures the A/C discharge line to the A/C compressor. Tighten the nut to 12 N.m
(105 in. lbs.).
13. Adjust the refrigerant oil level. See REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL.
4.0L ENGINE
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3. For clearance, position the A/C condenser (3) toward the left side of the vehicle.
4. Connect the A/C discharge line (5) to the A/C condenser and install the retaining nut (4) hand tight.
5. Reposition the A/C condenser and install the bolt (2) that secures the condenser to the right side of the
radiator (1). Tighten the bolt to 5 N.m (44 in. lbs.).
6. Tighten the nut that secures the A/C discharge line to the A/C condenser to 22.5 N.m (200 in. lbs.).
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(105 in. lbs.).
2.8L ENGINE
refrigerant system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE. Failure to properly
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Fig. 168: Removing/Installing Nut That Secures A/C Discharge Line To A/C Condenser
NOTE: Rotate and tilt the A/C discharge line as necessary to connect it from the
A/C condenser.
3. Position the A/C discharge line (1) into the engine compartment and connect it to the A/C condenser (2).
4. Install the nut (3) that secures the A/C discharge line to the A/C condenser. Tighten the nut to 22.5 N.m
(200 in. lbs.).
5. Engage the A/C discharge line into the plastic retaining clip located on the right side of the fan shroud.
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(105 in. lbs.).
10. Install the air inlet tube to the throttle body. Tighten the clamp securely.
LINE-A/C LIQUID
DESCRIPTION
LINE-A/C LIQUID
Fig. 170: A/C Liquid Line, High-Side Service Port, A/C Pressure Transducer & Condenser Outlet Tube
Connection
The A/C liquid line (1) is the refrigerant line that carries refrigerant from the A/C condenser to the A/C
expansion valve. The A/C liquid line contains the high-side service port (2), a fitting for the A/C pressure
transducer (3) and uses a spring lock coupler at the condenser outlet tube connection (4). On LHD models, the
A/C liquid line is serviced only as an assembly. On RHD models, the A/C liquid line is serviced in two sections
and uses a spring lock coupler to connect the two sections together.
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The A/C liquid line has no serviceable parts except for the rubber O-ring seals, high-side service port valve and
its protective cap and the plastic retainer clips. The O-ring seals used on the connections are made from a
special type of rubber not affected by R-134a refrigerant. The O-ring seals must be replaced whenever the A/C
liquid line is removed and installed.
The A/C liquid line cannot be repaired and must be replaced if leaking or damaged.
REMOVAL
RHD MODEL
injury or death.
FRONT SECTION


2. Recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
4. Remove the secondary retaining clip and using the proper A/C line disconnect tool, disconnect the A/C
liquid line (1) from the condenser tube (2). See REMOVAL.
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Fig. 172: Retaining Clips, Secondary Retaining Clip, A/C Liquid Line & A/C Liquid Line
5. Disengage the front section of the A/C liquid line (4) from the two retaining clips (1) located on the right
inner fender.
6. Remove the secondary retaining clip (2) and using the proper A/C line disconnect tool, disconnect the
front section of the A/C liquid line from the rear section of the A/C liquid line (3). See REMOVAL.
7. Remove the front section of the A/C liquid line from the engine compartment and remove and discard the
O-ring seals and install plugs in, or tape over the opened refrigerant line fittings and the condenser tube.
REAR SECTION
Fig. 173: Removing/Installing RHD Liquid Lines - Rear Section


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4. Remove the two nuts that secure the engine coolant reservoir to the dash panel and position the reservoir
out of the way.
5. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the A/C pressure transducer (6) located on the rear section of
the A/C liquid line (8) near the A/C expansion valve (4) and if required, remove the A/C pressure
transducer from the A/C liquid line. See REMOVAL for more information.
6. Remove the nut (5) that secures the A/C suction line (7) and the rear section of the A/C liquid line to the
A/C expansion valve and disconnect the lines from the valve.
7. Disengage the A/C liquid line from the retaining clips (3) located on the dash panel and the brake lines
near the brake booster.
8. Separate the A/C liquid line from the A/C suction line and disengage the A/C liquid line from the two
retaining clips (1) located on the right inner fender.
9. Remove the secondary retaining clip (2) and using the proper A/C line disconnect tool (Special Tool Kit
7193 or equivalent), disconnect the rear section of the A/C liquid line from the front section of the liquid
line (9). See REMOVAL.
10. Remove the rear section of the A/C liquid line from out of the right side of the engine compartment and
remove and discard the O-ring seals and install plugs in, or tape over the opened refrigerant line fittings
and the expansion valve ports.
LHD MODEL
injury or death.
Fig. 174: Removing/Installing LHD Liquid Line

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3. Remove the air cleaner housing (refer toREMOVAL for 3.7L - SERVICE INFORMATION or
4. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the A/C pressure transducer (1) located on the A/C liquid
line (5) near the A/C expansion valve (3) and if required, remove the A/C pressure transducer from the
A/C liquid line. See REMOVAL.
5. Remove the nut (2) that secures the A/C suction line (1) and the A/C liquid line (4) to the A/C expansion
valve (3) and disconnect the lines from the valve.
6. Separate the A/C liquid line from the A/C suction line and disengage the A/C liquid line from the two
retaining clips (6) located on the right inner fender.

7. Remove the secondary retaining clip and using the proper A/C line disconnect tool (Special Tool Kit
7193 or equivalent), disconnect the A/C liquid line (1) from the condenser tube (2). See REMOVAL.
8. Remove the A/C liquid line from the engine compartment and remove and discard the O-ring seals and
install plugs in, or tape over the opened refrigerant line fittings and the condenser and expansion valve
ports.
INSTALLATION
LHD MODELS
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1. Remove the tape or plugs from the opened refrigerant line fittings and the condenser and expansion valve
ports.
2. Lubricate new rubber O-ring seals with clean refrigerant oil and install them onto the refrigerant line
fittings. Use only the specified O-rings as they are made of a special material for the R-134a system. Use
only refrigerant oil of the type recommended for the A/C compressor in the vehicle.
INSTALLATION.
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Fig. 177: Removing/Installing LHD Liquid Line

4. Install the A/C liquid line (5) into the two retaining clips (6) located on the right inner fender.
5. Connect the A/C liquid line to the A/C suction line (4).
6. Connect the A/C liquid and suction lines to the A/C expansion valve (3) and install the retaining nut (2).
7. If removed, install the A/C pressure transducer (1) onto A/C liquid line and connect the wire harness
connector to the transducer. See INSTALLATION for more information.
RHD MODEL
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FRONT SECTION

1. Be certain to adjust the refrigerant oil level when servicing the A/C refrigerant system. See
REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL.
2. Remove the tape or plugs from the opened refrigerant line fittings and the condenser tube port.
INSTALLATION.
Fig. 179: Retaining Clips, Secondary Retaining Clip, A/C Liquid Line & A/C Liquid Line
5. Connect the front section of the A/C liquid line (4) to the rear section of the A/C liquid line (3) and install
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the secondary retaining clip (2). See INSTALLATION.

6. Engage the A/C liquid line to the two retaining clips (1) located on the right inner fender.
7. Install the air cleaner housing (refer to REMOVAL for 3.7L - SERVICE INFORMATION or
REAR SECTION
Fig. 180: Removing/Installing RHD Liquid Lines - Rear Section

1. Remove the tape or plugs from the opened refrigerant line fittings and the expansion valve ports.
3. Position the rear section of the A/C liquid line (8) into the engine compartment from the right side of the
vehicle. Be sure to route the liquid line behind the diesel engine fuel filter.
4. Connect the rear section of the A/C liquid line (8) to the A/C suction line (7).
6. If removed, install the A/C pressure transducer (6) onto A/C liquid line and connect the wire harness
connector to the transducer. See INSTALLATION for more information.
7. Engage the A/C liquid line to the retaining clips (3) located on the dash panel and the brake lines near the
brake booster.
8. Connect the front section of the A/C liquid line (9) to the rear section of the A/C liquid line and install the
secondary retaining clip (2). See INSTALLATION.
9. Engage the A/C liquid line to the two retaining clips (1) located on the right inner fender.
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10. Reposition the engine coolant reservoir to the dash panel and install the two retaining nuts. Tighten the
nuts securely.
LINE-A/C SUCTION
DESCRIPTION
LINE-A/C SUCTION
Fig. 181: A/C Suction Line, Tapping Plate, Low-Side Service Port & Heat Shield
NOTE: 4.0L engine shown. Other engines similar.
The A/C suction line (1) is the refrigerant line that carries refrigerant from the A/C evaporator to the A/C
compressor. The A/C suction line and is secured to the A/C expansion valve by a tapping plate (2) and contains
the low-side service port (3) and a heat shield (4), depending on engine application.
The A/C suction line has no serviceable parts except for the rubber O-ring seals, metal gasket and the low-side
service port valve and its protective cap. The O-ring seals used on the connections are made from a special type
of rubber not affected by R-134a refrigerant. The O-ring seals and gasket must be replaced whenever the A/C
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suction line is removed and installed.
The A/C suction line cannot be repaired and must be replaced if leaking or damaged.
REMOVAL
2.8L LHD ENGINE
injury or death.


6. Remove the nut (5) that secures the A/C suction line (4) to the A/C compressor (3).
7. Disconnect the A/C suction line from the A/C compressor and remove and discard the O-ring seal and
gasket.
8. Remove the two nuts (2) that secure the A/C suction line to the top of the engine.
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Fig. 183: A/C Suction Line, Nut, A/C Expansion Valve & A/C Liquid Line
10. Separate the A/C liquid line from the A/C suction line and remove the suction line from the engine
compartment.
11. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened refrigerant line fittings and the compressor and expansion valve
ports.
2.8L RHD ENGINE
injury or death.
Fig. 184: Nut, A/C Suction Line & A/C Compressor

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gasket.
Fig. 185: Nut, A/C Expansion Valve, A/C Suction Line & A/C Liquid Line
compartment.
ports.
3.7L ENGINE
injury or death.
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Compressor

gasket.
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compartment.
ports.
4.0L ENGINE
injury or death.

REMOVAL for 4.0L - SERVICE INFOMATION ).
gasket.
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compartment.
ports.
INSTALLATION
4.0L ENGINE
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1. Remove the tape or plugs from the opened refrigerant line fittings and the compressor and expansion
valve ports.
2. Lubricate new O-ring seals with clean refrigerant oil and install them and a new gasket on the refrigerant
3. Connect the A/C liquid line (4) to the A/C suction line (1).
5. Connect the A/C suction line (3) to the A/C compressor (4).
6. Install the nut (2) that secures the A/C suction line to the A/C compressor. Tighten the nut to 12 N.m (105
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in. lbs.).
2.8L RHD ENGINE
Fig. 192: Nut, A/C Expansion Valve, A/C Suction Line & A/C Liquid Line
valve ports.
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Fig. 193: Nut, A/C Suction Line & A/C Compressor

in. lbs.).
3.7L ENGINE
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valve ports.
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Compressor
in. lbs.).
2.8L LHD ENGINE
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valve ports.

in. lbs.).
7. Install the two nuts (2) that secure the A/C suction line to the top of the engine. Tighten the nuts to 4.5
N.m (40 in. lbs.).
OIL-A/C REFRIGERANT
DESCRIPTION
OIL-A/C REFRIGERANT
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The refrigerant oil used in R-134a refrigerant systems is a synthetic-based, Poly Alkylene Glycol (PAG), wax-
free lubricant. Mineral-based R-12 refrigerant oils are not compatible with PAG oils, and should never be
introduced to an R-134a refrigerant system.
There are different PAG oils available, and each contains a different additive package. Use only refrigerant oil
of the same type as recommended to service the refrigerant system (always refer to the specification tag
included with the replacement A/C compressor or the A/C Underhood Specification Label located in the engine
compartment).
compressor. See REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL. Failure to properly adjust the
refrigerant oil level can prevent the A/C system from operating as
The A/C compressors used in this vehicle are designed to use VC-46 PAG refrigerant oil. Use only this type of
refrigerant oil when servicing the A/C compressor.
OPERATION
OIL-A/C REFRIGERANT
After performing any refrigerant recovery or recycling operation, always replenish the refrigerant system with
the same amount of the recommended refrigerant oil as was removed. Too little refrigerant oil can cause A/C
compressor damage, and too much can reduce A/C system performance.
PAG refrigerant oil is more hygroscopic than mineral oil, and will absorb any moisture it comes into contact
with, even moisture in the air. The PAG oil container should always be kept tightly capped until it is ready to be
used. After use, recap the oil container immediately to prevent moisture contamination.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL
When an A/C system is assembled at the factory, all components except the A/C compressor are refrigerant oil
free. After the refrigerant system has been charged and operated, the refrigerant oil in the A/C compressor is
dispersed throughout the refrigerant system. The A/C accumulator, A/C evaporator, A/C condenser and the A/C
compressor will each retain a significant amount of the needed refrigerant oil.
It is important to have the correct amount of refrigerant oil in the A/C system. This ensures proper lubrication of
the A/C compressor. Too little oil will result in damage to the A/C compressor, while too much oil will reduce
the cooling capacity of the A/C system and consequently result in higher discharge air temperatures.
CAUTION: The A/C compressors in this vehicle are designed to use VC-46 PAG
refrigerant oil. Use only VC-46 PAG refrigerant oil or severe damage to the
A/C system may occur. Always refer to the A/C Underhood Specification
Label for correct oil designation. The oil container should be kept tightly
capped until it is ready for use and then tightly capped after use to prevent
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contamination from dirt and moisture. Refrigerant oil will quickly absorb
any moisture it comes in contact with, therefore, special effort must be
used to keep all R-134a system components moisture-free. Moisture in the
refrigerant oil is very difficult to remove and will cause a reliability problem
with the A/C compressor.
NOTE: Most reclaim/recycling equipment will measure the lubricant being removed
during recovery. This amount of lubricant should be added back into the
system. Refer to the reclaim/recycling equipment manufacturers instructions.
It will not be necessary to check the oil level in the A/C compressor or to add oil, unless there has been an oil
loss. An oil loss may occur due to component replacement, or a rupture or leak from a refrigerant line,
connector fitting, component or component seal. If a leak occurs, add 30 milliliters (1 fluid ounce) of the
recommended refrigerant oil to the refrigerant system after the repair has been made. Refrigerant oil loss will be
evident at the leak point by the presence of a wet, shiny surface around the leak.
Refrigerant oil must be added when an A/C condenser, A/C evaporator or A/C receiver/drier is replaced. See
the Refrigerant Oil Capacities chart.
The refrigerant oil level in a new A/C compressor must first be adjusted prior to compressor installation. Refer
to step COMPRESSOR OIL DRAIN PROCEDURE.
REFRIGERANT OIL CAPACITIES

Component ml oz
Total System Fill 150 5
A/C Condenser 30 1
A/C Evaporator 60 2
A/C Receiver/drier 30 1
Drain and measure the oil from the old compressor. Refer to
A/C Compressor
COMPRESSOR OIL DRAIN PROCEDURE.
COMPRESSOR OIL DRAIN PROCEDURE
compressor. Failure to properly drain and measure the refrigerant oil from
the A/C compressor can prevent the A/C system from operating as
designed and cause serious compressor damage.
The A/C compressor is filled with refrigerant oil from the factory. Use the following procedure to drain and
measure refrigerant oil from the A/C compressor.
1. Drain all of the refrigerant oil from the old A/C compressor into a clean measured container.
2. Drain all of the refrigerant oil from the new A/C compressor into a clean measured container.
3. Refill the new A/C compressor with the same amount of refrigerant oil that was drained out of the old
compressor. Use only clean refrigerant oil of the type recommended for the A/C compressor in the
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vehicle.
4. Install the new A/C compressor onto the engine. See INSTALLATION.
RECEIVER/DRIER-A/C
DESCRIPTION
RECEIVER/DRIER-A/C
Fig. 198: A/C Receiver/Drier, Left Side A/C Condenser & Bolt
The A/C receiver/drier (1) stores unnecessary refrigerant, filters the refrigerant, helps remove moisture from the
refrigerant and retains any refrigerant vapor that may leave the A/C condenser (2) until it becomes a liquid. The
A/C receiver/drier is installed on the high-side of the A/C system and is connected directly to the left end of the
A/C condenser by a bolt (3). The A/C receiver/drier can be serviced separately from the A/C condenser.
OPERATION
RECEIVER/DRIER-A/C
The A/C receiver/drier performs a filtering action to prevent foreign material in the refrigerant from
contaminating the A/C expansion valve. Refrigerant enters the A/C receiver/drier as a high-pressure, low
temperature liquid. Desiccant inside the A/C receiver/drier absorbs any moisture which may have entered and
become trapped within the refrigerant system. In addition, during periods of high demand operation of the A/C
system, the A/C receiver/drier acts as a reservoir to store surplus refrigerant.
The A/C receiver/drier has no serviceable parts except for the O-ring seals, gaskets and the high side service
port valve and cap. The O-ring seals used on the connections are made from a special type of rubber not
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affected by R-134a refrigerant. The O-ring seals and gaskets must be replaced whenever the A/C receiver/drier
is removed.
The A/C receiver/drier cannot be repaired and must be replaced if leaking or damaged, or if an internal failure
of the A/C compressor has occurred.
REMOVAL
RECEIVER/DRIER-A/C
injury or death.
NOTE: Illustration shown with A/C condenser removed from vehicle for clarity.

4. Remove the air seal from the left side of the cooling module assembly.
5. Reach through the opening at the bottom of the front fascia and remove the bolt (3) that secures the A/C
receiver/drier (1) to the left side A/C condenser (2).
6. Disconnect the A/C receiver/drier from the A/C condenser and remove and discard the O-ring seals.
7. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened receiver/drier fittings and the condenser ports.
INSTALLATION
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RECEIVER/DRIER-A/C
CAUTION: The receiver/drier must be replaced if an internal failure of the A/C

compressor has occurred. Failure to replace the receiver/drier can cause
serious A/C compressor damage.
NOTE: If only the receiver/drier is being replaced, add 30 milliliters (1 fluid ounce) of
refrigerant oil to the refrigerant system. Use only the refrigerant oil of the type
NOTE: Illustration shown with A/C condenser removed from vehicle for clarity.
1. Remove the tape or plugs from the receiver/drier fittings and the condenser ports.
2. Lubricate new O-ring seals with clean refrigerant oil and install them onto the receiver/drier fittings. Use
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only the specified O-rings as they are made of a special material for the R-134a system. Use only
refrigerant oil of the type recommended for the A/C compressor in the vehicle.
3. Connect the A/C receiver/drier (1) to the left end of the A/C condenser (2).
4. Install the bolt (3) that secures the A/C receiver/drier to the A/C condenser. Tighten the bolt to 22 N.m
(16 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the air seal onto the left side of the cooling module assembly.
9. If the A/C receiver/drier is being replaced, add 30 milliliters (1.0 fluid ounce) of refrigerant oil to the
REFRIGERANT-A/C
DESCRIPTION
REFRIGERANT-A/C
The refrigerant used in this air conditioning system is a Hydro Fluoro Carbon (HFC), type R-134a. Unlike R-12,
which is a Chloro Fluoro Carbon (CFC), R-134a refrigerant does not contain ozone-depleting chlorine. R-134a
refrigerant is a non-toxic, non-flammable, clear, and colorless liquefied gas.
Even though R-134a does not contain chlorine, it must be reclaimed and recycled just like CFC-type
refrigerants. This is because R-134a is a greenhouse gas and can contribute to global warming. See
REFRIGERANT SYSTEM RECOVERY for more information.
OPERATION
REFRIGERANT-A/C
R-134a refrigerant is not compatible with R-12 refrigerant in an A/C system. Even a small amount of R-12
refrigerant added to an R-134a refrigerant system will cause A/C compressor failure, refrigerant oil sludge or
poor A/C system performance. In addition, the poly alkylene glycol (PAG) synthetic refrigerant oils used in an
R-134a refrigerant system are not compatible with the mineral-based refrigerant oils used in an R-12 refrigerant
system.
R-134a refrigerant system service ports, service tool couplers and refrigerant dispensing bottles have all been
designed with unique fittings to ensure that an R-134a refrigerant system is not accidentally contaminated with
the wrong refrigerant (R-12). There are also labels posted in the engine compartment of the vehicle and on the
A/C compressor to identify that the A/C system is equipped with R-134a refrigerant.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
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REFRIGERANT CHARGE LEVEL
All models 0.510 kg (1.12 lbs.)
VALVE-A/C EXPANSION
DESCRIPTION
VALVE-A/C EXPANSION
Fig. 201: Aluminum H-Valve Type Body, Inlet Port, Outlet Port & Integral Thermal Sensor
The A/C expansion valve controls the amount of refrigerant entering the A/C evaporator. The A/C expansion
valve is of a thermostatic expansion valve (TXV) design and consists of an aluminum H-valve type body (1)
with an inlet port (2), outlet port (3) and an integral thermal sensor (4).
The A/C expansion valve is located between the A/C refrigerant lines and the A/C evaporator in the engine
compartment.
OPERATION
VALVE-A/C EXPANSION
The A/C expansion valve controls the high-pressure, low temperature liquid refrigerant from the A/C liquid line
and converts it into a low-pressure, low-temperature mixture of liquid and gas before it enters the A/C
evaporator. A mechanical sensor in the A/C expansion valve monitors the temperature and pressure of the
refrigerant leaving the A/C evaporator through the A/C suction line, and adjusts the orifice size at the liquid line
port to let the proper amount of refrigerant into the evaporator to meet the vehicle A/C cooling requirements.
Controlling the refrigerant flow through the A/C evaporator ensures that none of the refrigerant leaving the A/C
evaporator is still in a liquid state, which could damage the A/C compressor.
NOTE: Replacement of the refrigerant line O-ring seals is required anytime a refrigerant
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line is disconnected from the expansion valve. Failure to replace the rubber O-
ring seals could result in a refrigerant system leak.
The A/C expansion valve is factory calibrated and cannot be adjusted or repaired and must be replaced if
inoperative or damaged.
VALVE-A/C EXPANSION
injury or death.
NOTE: The A/C expansion valve should only be tested following testing of the A/C
compressor.
NOTE: Liquid CO2 is required to test the A/C expansion valve. This material is available
from most welding supply facilities. Liquid CO2 is also available from
companies which service and sell fire extinguishers.
When testing the A/C expansion valve, the work area and the vehicle temperature must be 21° to 27°C (70° to
85°F). To test the expansion valve:
1. Connect a charging station or manifold gauge set to the refrigerant system service ports. Verify the
refrigerant charge level.
2. Close all doors, windows and vents to the passenger compartment.
3. Set the A/C-heater controls so that the A/C compressor is operating, the temperature control is in the
highest temperature position, the mode-air doors is directing air output to the floor and the blower motor
operating is operating at the highest speed.
4. Start the engine and allow it to idle. After the engine has reached normal operating temperature, allow the
passenger compartment to heat up. This will create the need for maximum refrigerant flow into the A/C
evaporator.
5. If the refrigerant charge is sufficient, the discharge (high pressure) gauge should read 827 kPa to 1655
kPa (120 psi to 240 psi). The suction (low pressure) gauge should read 207 kPa to 345 kPa (30 psi to 50
psi). If OK, go to step 6. If not OK, replace the inoperative A/C expansion valve.
WARNING: Protect the skin and eyes from exposure to liquid CO & amp;sup2;
or personal injury can result.
6. If the suction (low pressure) gauge reads within the specified range, freeze the A/C expansion valve for
30 seconds using liquid CO & amp;sup2; or another suitable super-cold material.Do not spray R-134a or
R-12 refrigerant on the A/C expansion valve for this test. The suction (low pressure) gauge reading
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should drop by 69 kPa (10 psi). If OK, go to step 7. If not OK, replace the inoperative A/C expansion
valve.
7. Allow the expansion valve control head to thaw. The suction (low pressure) gauge reading should
stabilize at 207 kPa to 345 kPa (30 psi to 50 psi). If not OK, replace the inoperative A/C expansion valve.
8. When expansion valve testing is complete, test the overall A/C system performance. See A/C
PERFORMANCE TEST.
REMOVAL
VALVE-A/C EXPANSION
injury or death.
1. Recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
valve (3).
4. Disconnect the A/C suction and liquid lines from the A/C expansion valve, remove and discard the O-ring
seals and position the refrigerant lines out of the way.
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Fig. 203: Bolts, A/C Expansion Valve & Evaporator Tube Tapping Block
5. Remove the two bolts (1) that secure the A/C expansion valve (2) to the evaporator tube tapping block
(3).
6. Remove the A/C expansion valve from the evaporator tube tapping block and remove and discard the O-
ring seals.
7. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened refrigerant line and evaporator tube fittings and all expansion
valve ports.
INSTALLATION
VALVE-A/C EXPANSION
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Fig. 204: Bolts, A/C Expansion Valve & Evaporator Tube Tapping Block
1. Remove the tape or plugs from the opened refrigerant line and evaporator tube fittings and all of the
expansion valve ports.
2. Lubricate new O-ring seals with clean refrigerant oil and install them onto the refrigerant line and
evaporator tube fittings. Use only the specified O-rings as they are made of a special material for the R-
3. Install the A/C expansion valve (2) onto the evaporator tube tapping block (3).
4. Install the two bolts (1) that secure the A/C expansion valve to the evaporator tube tapping block. Tighten
the bolts to 11 N.m (97 in. lbs.).
5. Connect the A/C suction line (1) and the A/C liquid line (4) to the A/C expansion valve (3).
6. Install the nut (2) that secures the A/C suction and liquid lines to the A/C expansion valve. Tighten the
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nut to 23 N.m (17 ft. lbs.).

8. Evacuate the refrigerant system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
9. Recharge the refrigerant system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
HEATER-CABIN
HEATER UNIT
DESCRIPTION
HEATER UNIT
Fig. 206: (PTC) Heater Unit, Mounting Plate, Integral Wire Connector Receptacle, Fins & Positioning
Tab
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An electric positive temperature coefficient (PTC) heater unit (1) is used on vehicles when equipped with the
2.8L diesel engine. The PTC heater unit aids in passenger compartment heating by compensating for the lower
engine coolant temperatures produced by the diesel engine. The PTC heater unit is mounted in the HVAC air
distribution housing, downstream of the heater core and is controlled by the diesel engine control module
(ECM) and the totally integrated power module (TIPM) through two relays in diesel accessory fuse/relay block
located below the left front fender.
The PTC heater consists of a molded plastic mounting plate (2) with an integral wire connector receptacle (3).
Concealed behind the mounting plate are four heating elements with fins (4) that transfer the heat produced by
the PTC heater to the conditioned air flowing within the air distribution housing. A positioning tab (5) is
molded onto the end of the heater unit to help support the heater unit inside the air distribution housing. The
PTC heater unit is connected to the vehicle electrical system through the instrument panel wire harness.
The PTC heater unit is accessed for service from underneath the instrument panel.
OPERATION
HEATER UNIT
The positive temperature coefficient (PTC) heater unit dissipates 1 kW of electrical power through 4 heating
bars. The totally integrated power module (TIPM) operates the two relays for the PTC heater unit. The PTC
heater unit is split into two "banks". Each bank is driven separately based on alternator load. This allows for
lower in-rush current and optimum battery charging. After a bank has been turned on, another bank can only be
turned on 10 seconds after the previous. On average, the PTC banks are not switched more than 25 times for
each vehicle start. Electrical power output is between 900-1050 W.
The control system for the PTC heater unit is diagnosed using a scan tool. Prior to replacing a PTC heater unit,
check for any diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) related to the ECM, TIPM and heating-A/C system (refer to
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS for more information).
The PTC heater unit cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if faulty or damaged it must be replaced.
HEATER UNIT
airbag deployment and possible serious or fatal injury.
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NOTE: For circuit descriptions and diagrams, refer to the appropriate wiring
information. The wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and
connector repair procedures, further details on wire harness routing and
retention, as well as pin-out and location views for the various wire harness
Prior to replacing the positive temperature coefficient (PTC) heater unit, check for any diagnostic trouble codes
(DTCs) related to the engine control module (ECM), totally integrated power module (TIPM) and the heating-
A/C system and repair as necessary (refer to HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - ELECTRICAL

2. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the PTC heater unit. See REMOVAL.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all of the PTC heater unit terminals. In each case there
should be continuity. If OK, repair the wire harness circuits between the PTC heater unit and the TIPM. If
NOT OK, replace the PTC heater unit.
REMOVAL
HEATER UNIT
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REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the mode door actuator (2) and the blend door actuator (6)
located on the driver side of the air distribution housing. See REMOVAL for more information.
4. Carefully disengage the retaining tabs (3) that secure the mode door actuator and the blend door actuator
to the actuator mounting bracket (5) and remove the actuators.
5. Remove the three screws (1) that secure the actuator mounting bracket to the air distribution housing and
remove the bracket.
6. Remove the screw (8) that secures the driver side front floor duct (7) to the air distribution housing and
remove the duct
Fig. 208: Wire Harness Connector, Wire Connector Lock & Positive Temperature Coefficient
(PTC) Heater Unit
NOTE: PTC heater shown removed from distribution housing for clarity.
NOTE: To disconnect the wire harness connector from the PTC heater, disengage
the connector lock while pulling the connector away from the heater unit.
7. Disengage the wire connector lock (2) that secures the wire harness connector (1) to the positive
temperature coefficient (PTC) heater unit (3) and disconnect the connector from the heater.
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Fig. 209: Removing/Installing Screws That Secure PTC Heater Unit To Air Distribution Housing
8. Remove the two screws (1) that secure the PTC heater unit (2) to the air distribution housing (3).
9. Carefully pull the PTC heater unit straight out of the air distribution housing.
INSTALLATION
HEATER UNIT
Fig. 210: Removing/Installing Screws That Secure PTC Heater Unit To Air Distribution Housing
1. Carefully install the positive temperature coefficient (PTC) heater unit (2) into the driver side of the air
distribution housing (3). Make sure to position the two locator tabs on the end of the heater unit into the
molded locator indentations on the right side of the air distribution housing.
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2. Install the two screws (1) that secure the PTC heater unit to the air distribution housing. Tighten the
screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in. lbs.).
Fig. 211: Connecting Wire Harness Connector To PTC Heater Unit While Pushing Inward On
Connector Lock
NOTE: PTC heater shown removed from distribution housing for clarity.
3. Connect the wire harness connector (1) to the PTC heater unit (3) while pushing inward on the connector
lock (2). Make sure the wire harness connector and lock are fully engaged.

4. Install the driver side front floor duct (7) onto the driver side of the air distribution housing (4) and install
the retaining screw (8). Tighten the screw to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.).
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5. Position the actuator mounting bracket (5) onto the air distribution housing and install the three retaining
screws (1). Tighten the screws to 1.2 N.m (10 in lbs.).
6. Position the mode door actuator (2) and the blend door actuator (6) onto the actuator mounting bracket. If
necessary, rotate the actuator slightly to align the splines on the actuator output shaft with those on the
door linkage.
NOTE: If the retaining tabs on the actuator mounting bracket become broken
during service, the alignment pins on the bracket bosses can be removed
and screws can be used to retain the actuator to the bracket. Once the
alignment pins are removed, pre-made holes can be found the center of
the bosses, exactly where the pins were. This assures correct actuator
alignment to the bracket. Use care not to overtighten the screws and
damage the bosses.
7. Engage the retaining tabs (3) that secure the mode and blend door actuators to the actuator mounting
bracket. Make sure the retaining tabs are fully engaged.
8. Connect the wire harness connector to the mode and blend door actuators.
INSTALLATION .
RELAY-HEATER UNIT
DESCRIPTION
RELAY-HEATER UNIT
Fig. 213: Heater Unit Relay

Two relays (1) are used for the electric positive temperature coefficient (PTC) heater system when equipped
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with the 2.8L diesel engine. The relays are International Standards Organization (ISO)-type relays. Relays
conforming to the ISO specifications have common physical dimensions, current capacities, terminal functions
and patterns (2). The PTC relays are electromechanical devices that switch fused battery current directly to the
heating elements of the PTC heater unit. The PTC relays are energized by control circuits of the totally
integrated power module (TIPM).
The two PTC relays are located in the diesel accessory fuse/relay block at the right front corner of the engine
compartment.
OPERATION
RELAY-HEATER UNIT
The two ISO-standard relays (1) used for the electric positive temperature coefficient (PTC) heater system are
electromechanical switches that use a low current ASD power input to control the high current fused battery
power output to the PTC heater unit. On each relay, the movable, common feed relay contact is held against the
fixed, normally closed relay contact by spring pressure. When the electromagnetic relay coil is energized, it
draws the movable common feed relay contact away from the fixed, normally closed relay contact and, holds it
against the fixed, normally open relay contact. This action allows high current to flow to one or more of the
heating elements of the PTC heater.
When the relay coil is de-energized, spring pressure returns the movable relay contact back against the fixed,
normally closed contact point. The resistor or diode is connected in parallel with the relay coil, and helps to
dissipate voltage spikes and electromagnetic interference that can be generated as the electromagnetic field of
the relay coil collapses.
The terminals for the PTC relays are connected to the vehicle electrical system through receptacles in the diesel
accessory fuse/relay block. The inputs and outputs of the PTC relays include:
Terminals (30) receive battery current through a fusible link at all times.
Terminals (85) are connected to a ground circuit.
Terminals (86) are connected to control circuits of the totally integrated power module (TIPM).
Terminals (87) provide fused battery current to the PTC heating elements through the PTC relays only
when the PTC relay coil is energized.
Terminals (87A) are not connected to any circuit in this application, but provide battery current output
only when the PTC relay coil is de-energized.
The two PTC relays cannot be repaired and, if faulty or damaged they must be replaced. Refer to the
appropriate wiring information for diagnosis and testing of the ISO-standard relays and for complete TIPM and
HVAC wiring diagrams.
REMOVAL
RELAY-HEATER UNIT
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Fig. 214: Cover & Diesel Accessory Fuse/Relay Block


2. Open the cover (1) of the diesel accessory fuse/relay block (2) located at the right front of the engine
compartment.
3. Remove the positive temperature coefficient (PTC) relays as necessary from the fuse/relay block.
INSTALLATION
RELAY-HEATER UNIT
Fig. 215: Cover & Diesel Accessory Fuse/Relay Block

1. Position the positive temperature coefficient (PTC) relays as necessary into the proper receptacle of the
diesel accessory fuse/relay block (2) located at the right front of the engine compartment.
2. Align the PTC relay terminals with the terminal cavities in the fuse/relay block and push down firmly on
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each relay until the terminals are fully seated.

3. Close the cover (1) of the diesel accessory fuse/relay block.
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2007 ENGINE Ignition Control - Electrical Diagnostics - Nitro
2007 ENGINE
Ignition Control - Electrical Diagnostics - Nitro

DTC Description
B2101 IGNITION RUN/START INPUT CIRCUIT LOW
B2102 IGNITION RUN/START INPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
B210D BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
B210E BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
B219A IGNITION UNLOCK RUN/START CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT
B2206 CURRENT VIN MISSING/MISMATCH
B222C VEHICLE CONFIGURATION NOT PROGRAMMED
U0100 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ECM/PCM
U0101 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH TCM
U0114 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH FINAL DRIVE CONTROL MODULE
U0121 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE
U0155 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH CLUSTER/CCN
U0164 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH HVAC CONTROL MODULE
U0168 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH VEHICLE SECURITY CONTROL MODULE
(SKREEM/WCM)
IGNITION CONTROL- ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS

B2101-IGNITION RUN/START INPUT CIRCUIT LOW
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Fig. 1: Identifying Ignition Run/Start Input Circuit

When Monitored:
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Set Condition:
The WCM/WIN (SKREEM) Module has detected the ignition switch input voltage below a calibrated
value.
Possible Causes
(F20) IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-START) CIRCUIT OPEN
(A106) FUSED B+ SHORTED TO GROUND
IGNITION SWITCH
TIPM
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR ACTIVE DTC
With a scan tool, read, record and erase TIPM DTCs.
Turn the ignition off for 30 seconds, then back on.
Using the scan tool, read TIPM DTCs.
Yes
Go to 2).
No
The condition that caused this code to set is not present at this time. Check for an intermittent
wires. Also inspect the related connectors for broken, bent, pushed out, spread, corroded, or
contaminated terminals.
2) (F20) IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-START) CIRCUIT OPEN
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Fig. 2: Using 12-Volt Test Light Connected To Ground To Probe (F20) Ignition Switch Output
(Run-Start) Circuit In TIPM C7 Harness Connector
NOTE: Check the related fuse (TIPM 46) to the (F20) Ignition Switch Output (Run-
Start) circuit. If blown, use the wiring diagrams as a guide to make
necessary repairs.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to ground, probe the (F20) Ignition Switch output (Run-Start) circuit
in the TIPM C7 harness connector.
Yes
Replace the TIPM in accordance with the service information.

No
Repair the (F20) Ignition switch output circuit for an open.

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B2102-IGNITION RUN/START INPUT CIRCUIT HIGH
Fig. 3: Identifying Ignition Run/Start Input Circuit


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When Monitored:
Set Condition:
The WCM/WIN (SKREEM) Module has detected the ignition switch input voltage above a calibrated
value.
Possible Causes
(F20) IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-START) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO BATTERY VOLTAGE
WCM/WIN (SKREEM) MODULE
Diagnostic Test
NOTE: Check to make sure the battery and charging system are operating
properly. Battery and charging system problems may cause these DTC's
to set.
NOTE: Diagnose any related Powertrain DTC(s) before continuing.
With a scan tool, read, record and erase WCM/WIN (SKREEM) DTC(s).
Perform 5 ignition cycles, leaving the ignition switch on for a minimum of 90 seconds per cycle.
Using the scan tool, read WCM/WIN (SKREEM) DTC(s).
Yes
Go to 2).
No
The condition that caused this code to set is not present at this time. Check for an intermittent
wires. Also inspect the related connectors for broken, bent, pushed out, spread, corroded, or
contaminated terminals.
2) (F20) IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-START) SHORTED TO BATTERY VOLTAGE
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Fig. 4: Using 12-Volt Test Light Connected To Ground To Probe (F20) Ignition Switch Output
(Run-Start) Circuit In WCM/WIN (SKREEM) Harness Connector
Disconnect the WCM/WIN (SKREEM) harness connector.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to ground, probe the (F20) Ignition Switch Output (Run-Start) circuit
in the WCM/WIN (SKREEM) harness connector.
Yes
Repair the (F20) Ignition Switch Output (Run-Start) circuit for a short to battery voltage.
No
Replace and program the WCM/WIN (SKREEM) in accordance with the service information.
B210D-BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
When Monitored:
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Set Condition:
Battery voltage less than 9 volts for approximately 5 to 6 seconds.
Possible Causes
GENERATOR OPERATION
PCM
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR ANY POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULES DTCS
NOTE: Make sure the Battery is in good condition. Using the Midtronics Battery
Tester, test the Battery before continuing.
NOTE: Inspect the vehicle for after market accessories that may exceed the
Generator System output.
NOTE: Make sure the generator drive belt is in good operating condition.
NOTE: Inspect the fuses in the TIPM. If an open fuse is found, use the wire
diagram/schematic as a guide, inspect the wiring and connectors for
damage.
With the scan tool, read active PCM DTC's.
Does the scan tool display any active PCM DTC's?
Yes
Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING for the diagnostic test procedure
No
Check the above conditions that can cause a low voltage condition. Repair as necessary.
B210E-BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
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When Monitored:
Set Condition:
Battery voltage greater than 16 volts for approximately 15 seconds.
Possible Causes
GENERATOR
PCM
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK FOR ANY POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULES DTCS
NOTE: Make sure the Battery is in good condition. Using the Midtronics Battery
Tester, test the Battery before continuing.
NOTE: Inspect the vehicle for after market accessories that may exceed the
Generator System output.
NOTE: Make sure the generator drive belt is in good operating condition.
NOTE: Inspect the fuses in the TIPM. If an open fuse is found, use the wire
diagram/schematic as a guide, inspect the wiring and connectors for
damage.
With the scan tool, read active PCM DTC's.
Does the scan tool display any active PCM DTC's?
Yes
Refer to the appropriate Engine ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS article for the diagnostic test
procedure
No
Check the above conditions that can cause a high voltage condition. Repair as necessary.
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B2142 IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD) FUSE NOT PRESENT
When Monitored:
With the Ignition on. This DTC will set only if vehicle has less that 50 miles on it. After 50 miles, DTC
B219F will set.
Set Condition:
IOD Fuse not installed in the TIPM.
Possible Causes
IOD FUSE
Diagnostic Test
With the scan tool, record and erase DTC's.
Cycle the ignition switch from off to on, leaving the ignition off for a minimum of 30 seconds.
With the scan tool, read the active DTC's.
Yes
Go to step 2).
No
If the DTC is stored, check for an intermittent condition. Using the wiring diagram/schematic as a
guide, visually inspect the related wiring harness connectors. Look for broken, bent, pushed out, or
corroded terminals.
2) IOD FUSE INSTALLED
Verify IOD Fuse installed in TIPM
Is IOD Fuse present?
Yes
Go to step 3).
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No
Install the IOD Fuse.

3) IOD FUSE BLOWN CHECK
Is IOD Fuse blown?
Yes
Replace the IOD Fuse.

No
Test complete.
B219A-IGNITION UNLOCK RUN/START CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT
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Fig. 5: Fused Ignition Switch Output (Run-Start) Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
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Set Condition:
Over current condition detected on the (F1) Fused Ignition Switch Output (Run-Start) circuit.
Possible Causes
TERMINAL DAMAGE OR CORROSION
HIGH RESISTANCE ON THE (F1) IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (UNLOCK-RUN-START)
CIRCUIT
TIPM
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No
corroded terminals.
2) INSPECT THE TIPM, PCM, AND SHIFT LEVER ASSEMBLY (NAG1) TERMINALS &
WIRE HARNESS FOR A CONDITION CAUSING HIGH CIRCUIT RESISTANCE
Disconnect the PCM C1 harness connector.
Disconnect the Shift Lever Assembly (NAG1) harness connector
Inspect the connector terminals for signs of corrosion build up and damage.
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Visually inspect the wiring harness for any chafed, pierced, pinched or partially broken wires hidden in
the wire insulation.
Were any of the above conditions found?
Yes
No
Replace the TIPM in accordance with the service information

B219F IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD) FUSE BLOWN
When Monitored:
With the ignition on. This DTC will only set if vehicle has over 50 miles on it.
Set Condition:
IOD Fuse not installed or blown.
Possible Causes
IOD FUSE NOT INSTALLED
IOD FUSE BLOWN
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to step 2).
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No
corroded terminals.
2) IOD FUSE
Verify IOD Fuse installed in TIPM.
Is IOD Fuse present?
Yes
Go to step 3).
No
Replace the IOD Fuse.

3) IOD FUSE BLOWN
Verify IOD Fuse is blown.
Is IOD Fuse blown?
Yes
Using the wiring diagrams, diagnose for a short to ground condition.

No
Test complete.
B2206-CURRENT VIN MISSING/MISMATCH
When Monitored:
Set Condition:
A PCM from another vehicle has been installed in the vehicle.
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Possible Causes
PCM FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE INSTALLED
Diagnostic Test
1) PCM FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE INSTALLED
NOTE: This DTC is set when a PCM from another vehicle is installed into the
current vehicle.
Has another PCM been installed?
Yes
Replace the PCM in accordance with the service information.

No
Go to 2).
2) OTHER CAN-C MODULES SET VIN MISMATCH
Is VIN Mismatch DTC set in other CAN-C modules?
Yes
Replace the PCM in accordance with the service information.

No

B222C-VEHICLE CONFIGURATION NOT PROGRAMMED
When Monitored:
Continuously
Set Condition:
The TIPM is not configured for the vehicle.

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Possible Causes
TIPM
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Test complete.
2) ACTIVE TIPM DTC
Cycle the ignition from off to run remaining in run.
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Test complete.
3) VIN MISMATCH DTC PRESENT
Is DTC: B2206-CURRENT VIN MISSING/MISMATCH also active?
Yes
Refer to repair procedure for B2206-CURRENT VIN MISSING/MISMATCH.

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No

U0100-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ECM/PCM
U0101-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH TCM
U0114-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH FINAL DRIVE CONTROL MODULE
U0121-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE
U0151-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH OCCUPANT RESTRAINT CONTROLLER
U0155-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH CLUSTER/CCN
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U0164-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH HVAC CONTROL MODULE
U0168-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH VEHICLE SECURITY CONTROL MODULE (SKREEM/WCM)
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2007 ENGINE Ignition Control - Service Information - Nitro
2007 ENGINE
Ignition Control - Service Information - Nitro
IGNITION CONTROL - SERVICE INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
IGNITION SYSTEM-3.7L
The ignition system is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) on all engines.
This engine uses a separate ignition coil for each cylinder. The one-piece coil bolts directly to the cylinder head.
Rubber boots seal the secondary terminal ends of the coils to the top of all 6 spark plugs. A separate electrical
connector is used for each coil.
Because of coil design, spark plug cables (secondary cables) are not used. A distributor is not used with the
3.7L engine.
Two knock sensors (one for each cylinder bank) are used to help control spark knock.
The Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay provides battery voltage to each ignition coil.
The ignition system consists of:
6 Spark Plugs
6 Separate Ignition Coils
2 Knock Sensors
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Also to be considered part of the ignition system are certain inputs from the Crankshaft Position,
Camshaft Position, 2 knock and MAP Sensors
DESCRIPTION
The ignition system is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) on all engines.
This engine uses a separate ignition coil for each cylinder. The one-piece coil bolts directly to the cylinder head.
Rubber boots seal the secondary terminal ends of the coils to the top of all 6 spark plugs. A separate electrical
connector is used for each coil.
Because of coil design, spark plug cables (secondary cables) are not used. A distributor is not used with the
4.0L engine.
One knock sensor is used to help control spark knock.
The Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay provides battery voltage to each ignition coil.
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The ignition system consists of:
6 Spark Plugs
6 Separate Ignition Coils
1 Knock Sensor
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Also to be considered part of the ignition system are certain inputs from the Crankshaft Position,
Camshaft Position, knock and MAP Sensors
SPECIFICATIONS
SPARK PLUGS
ENGINE PLUG TYPE ELECTRODE GAP

3.7L V-6 ZFR6F - 11G (NGK) 1.1mm (0.043 in.)
4.0L V-6 NGK R - ZFR5LP 13G 1.2mm - 1.35mm (0.048 - 0.053 in.)
IGNITION TIMING
Ignition timing is not adjustable on any engine.
Camshaft Position Sensor 12 - 106
- 3.7L
Camshaft Position Sensor 12 - 106
- 4.0L
Crankshaft Position 28 21 205
Sensor - 3.7L
Crankshaft Position 28 21 205
Sensor - 4.0L
Ignition Coil Mounting - 8 - 70
3.7L
Ignition Coil Mounting - 6.7 - 60
4.0L
* Knock Sensor - 3.7L 20 15 +/- 2 176
* Knock Sensor - 4.0L 10 7 -
Spark Plugs - 3.7L 27 20 -
Spark Plugs - 4.0L 17.5 13 -
Tilt lever bracket 4.5 - 40
Ignition switch mounting 3 - 26
screws
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* Do not apply any sealant, thread-locker or adhesive to bolts. Poor sensor performance may result.
** Torque critical tapered design. Do not exceed 15 ft. lbs. (20 N.m).
IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE - 3.7L V-6
PRIMARY RESISTANCE 21-27°C (70-80°F) SECONDARY RESISTANCE 21-27°C (70-80°F)

0.6 - 0.9 Ohms 6,000 - 9,000 Ohms
SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE FIRING ORDER - 3.7L
1-6-5-4-3-2
RELAY-AUTO SHUT DOWN
REMOVAL
AUTO SHUTDOWN RELAY
Fig. 1: Identifying ASD, Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) & Left Inner Fender
The ASD relay is located in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) (1). The TIPM is located in the
engine compartment near the left inner fender (2). Refer to label on TIPM cover for relay location.
1. Remove TIPM cover.

2. Remove relay from TIPM.
3. Check condition of relay terminals and TIPM connector terminals for damage or corrosion. Repair if
necessary before installing relay.
4. Check for pin height (pin height should be the same for all terminals within the TIPM connector). Repair
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if necessary before installing relay.
INSTALLATION
AUTO SHUTDOWN RELAY
Fig. 2: Identifying ASD, Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) & Left Inner Fender
1. Refer to TIPM cover for ASD relay location.

2. Install relay to TIPM (1).
3. Install cover to TIPM.
SENSOR-CAMSHAFT POSITION
REMOVAL
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - 3.7L
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Fig. 3: Identifying Right Cylinder Head, Sensor Mounting Bolt & Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP)
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) (3) is bolted to the front/top of the right cylinder head (1).

2. Disconnect electrical connector at CMP sensor.
4. Carefully twist sensor from cylinder head.
5. Check condition of sensor o-ring.
REMOVAL - 4.0L
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Fig. 4: Identifying Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) & Generator

The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) (1) is located at the front/top of the timing gear cover below the generator
(2).
Fig. 5: Identifying CMP Sensor Electrical Connector, Twist Sensor & Sensor Mounting Bolt
1. Remove generator. Refer to Generator Removal.

2. Disconnect electrical connector (1) at CMP sensor.
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4. Carefully twist sensor (2) from timing gear cover.

INSTALLATION
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - 3.7L
Fig. 6: Identifying Right Cylinder Head, Sensor Mounting Bolt & Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP)
1. Clean out machined hole in cylinder head.

2. Apply a small amount of engine oil to sensor o-ring.
3. Install sensor (3) into cylinder head with a slight rocking and twisting action.
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completely flush to cylinder head. If sensor is not flush, damage to

4. Install mounting bolt (2) and tighten to 12 N.m (106 in.lbs).

INSTALLATION - 4.0L
Fig. 7: Identifying CMP Sensor Electrical Connector, Twist Sensor & Sensor Mounting Bolt

2. Carefully twist sensor (2) into timing gear cover (4).
3. Install sensor mounting bolt (3). Refer to TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
4. Connect electrical connector (1) to CMP sensor.
5. Install generator. Refer to Generator Installation.
COIL-IGNITION
REMOVAL
COIL-IGNITION-3.7L
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Fig. 8: Ignition Coil Seal & O-Ring

An individual ignition coil (1) is used for each spark plug. The coil fits into machined holes in the cylinder
head. A mounting stud/nut secures each coil to the top of the intake manifold. The bottom of the coil is
equipped with a rubber boot to seal the spark plug to the coil. Inside each rubber boot is a spring. The spring is
used for a mechanical contact between the coil and the top of the spark plug. These rubber boots and springs are
a permanent part of the coil and are not serviced separately. An o-ring (2) is used to seal the coil at the opening
into the cylinder head.
1. Depending on which coil is being removed, the throttle body air intake tube or intake box may need to be
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removed to gain access to coil.

2. Disconnect electrical connector from coil by pushing downward on release lock on top of connector and
pull connector from coil.
3. Clean area at base of coil with compressed air before removal.
Fig. 9: Locating Ignition Coil - 3.7L

4. Remove coil mounting nut (2) from mounting stud.

5. Carefully pull up coil from cylinder head opening with a slight twisting action.
6. Remove coil from vehicle.
COIL-IGNITION - 4.0L
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Fig. 10: Identifying Ignition Coil Electrical Connector, Coil Mounting Bolt & Ignition Coils
Six individual ignition coils (3) are used for each of the six spark plugs.
1. Remove engine cover.

3. Remove upper half of intake manifold. Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Unlock and disconnect electrical connector (1) from ignition coil(s)
5. Clean area at base of coil with compressed air before removal.
6. Remove coil mounting bolt (2).
7. Carefully pull up coil from cylinder head opening with a slight twisting action.
8. Remove coil from engine.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 11: Ignition Coil Seal & O-Ring

1. Using compressed air, blow out any dirt or contaminants from around top of spark plug.
2. Check condition of coil O-ring (2) and replace as necessary. To aid in coil installation, apply silicone to
coil o-ring (2).
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Fig. 12: Locating Ignition Coil - 3.7L

3. Position ignition coil (1) into cylinder head opening and push onto spark plug. Do this while guiding coil
base over mounting stud.
4. Install coil mounting stud nut (2). Refer to Torque Specifications.
5. Connect electrical connector to coil by snapping into position.
6. If necessary, install throttle body air tube.
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Fig. 13: Identifying Ignition Coil Electrical Connector, Coil Mounting Bolt & Ignition Coils
2 - Mounting Bolt
3 - Coil
1. Install ignition coil (3) into cylinder head.

2. Install and tighten coil mounting bolt (2). Refer to Torque Specifications.
3. Connect electrical connector (1) and lock.
4. Install upper half of intake manifold. Refer to INSTALLATION .
6. Install engine cover.
SENSOR-KNOCK
OPERATION
OPERATION - 3.7L
Two knock sensors are used; one for each cylinder bank. When the knock sensor detects a knock in one of the
cylinders on the corresponding bank, it sends an input signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). In
response, the PCM retards ignition timing for all cylinders by a scheduled amount.
Knock sensors contain a piezoelectric material which constantly vibrates and sends an input voltage (signal) to
the PCM while the engine operates. As the intensity of the crystal's vibration increases, the knock sensor output
voltage also increases.
The voltage signal produced by the knock sensor increases with the amplitude of vibration. The PCM receives
the knock sensor voltage signal as an input. If the signal rises above a predetermined level, the PCM will store
that value in memory and retard ignition timing to reduce engine knock. If the knock sensor voltage exceeds a
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preset value, the PCM retards ignition timing for all cylinders. It is not a selective cylinder retard.
The PCM ignores knock sensor input during engine idle conditions. Once the engine speed exceeds a specified
value, knock retard is allowed.
Knock retard uses its own short term and long term memory program.
Long term memory stores previous detonation information in its battery-backed RAM. The maximum authority
that long term memory has over timing retard can be calibrated.
Short term memory is allowed to retard timing up to a preset amount under all operating conditions (as long as
rpm is above the minimum rpm) except at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). The PCM, using short term memory,
can respond quickly to retard timing when engine knock is detected. Short term memory is lost any time the
ignition key is turned off.
NOTE: Over or under tightening the sensor mounting bolts will affect knock sensor
performance, possibly causing improper spark control. Always use the
specified torque when installing the knock sensors.
OPERATION - 4.0L
Only one knock sensor is used. When the knock sensor detects a knock in one of the cylinders, it sends an input
signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). In response, the PCM retards ignition timing for all cylinders
by a scheduled amount.
Knock sensors contain a piezoelectric material which constantly vibrates and sends an input voltage (signal) to
the PCM while the engine operates. As the intensity of the crystal's vibration increases, the knock sensor output
voltage also increases.
The voltage signal produced by the knock sensor increases with the amplitude of vibration. The PCM receives
the knock sensor voltage signal as an input. If the signal rises above a predetermined level, the PCM will store
that value in memory and retard ignition timing to reduce engine knock. If the knock sensor voltage exceeds a
preset value, the PCM retards ignition timing for all cylinders. It is not a selective cylinder retard.
The PCM ignores knock sensor input during engine idle conditions. Once the engine speed exceeds a specified
value, knock retard is allowed.
Knock retard uses its own short term and long term memory program.
Long term memory stores previous detonation information in its battery-backed RAM. The maximum authority
that long term memory has over timing retard can be calibrated.
Short term memory is allowed to retard timing up to a preset amount under all operating conditions (as long as
rpm is above the minimum rpm) except at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). The PCM, using short term memory,
can respond quickly to retard timing when engine knock is detected. Short term memory is lost any time the
ignition key is turned off.
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NOTE: Over or under tightening the sensor mounting bolt will affect knock sensor
performance, possibly causing improper spark control. Always use the
specified torque when installing the knock sensor.
REMOVAL
SENSOR-KNOCK-3.7L
Fig. 14: Identifying Knock Sensors, Identification Tag (LEFT) & Electrical Connector
The two knock sensors (1) are bolted into the cylinder block under the intake manifold. The two sensors share a
common wiring harness using one electrical connector (3). Because of this, they must be replaced as a pair.
NOTE: The left sensor is identified by an identification tag (LEFT) (2). It is also
identified by a larger bolt head. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) must
have and know the correct sensor left/right positions. Do not mix the sensor
locations.
1. Remove intake manifold. Refer to INSTALLATION .

2. Disconnect knock sensor dual pigtail harness from engine wiring harness. This connection is made near
rear of engine.
3. Remove both sensor mounting bolts. Note foam strip on bolt threads. This foam is used only to retain the
bolts to sensors for plant assembly. It is not used as a sealant. Do not apply any adhesive, sealant or
thread locking compound to these bolts.
4. Remove sensors from engine.
REMOVAL - 4.0L
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Fig. 15: Identifying Sensor, Sensor Mounting Bolt & Engine

Only one sensor (1) is used with the 4.0L engine. It is attached to the top of the cylinder block below the intake
manifold.
1. Remove intake manifold. Refer to INSTALLATION .

2. Disconnect knock sensor pigtail harness from engine wiring harness. This connection is made near front
of engine (3).
3. Remove sensor mounting bolt (2). Note foam strip on bolt threads. This foam is used only to retain the
bolt to sensor for plant assembly. It is not used as a sealant. Do not apply any adhesive, sealant or thread
locking compound to this bolt.
4. Remove sensor from engine.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 3.7L
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Fig. 16: Identifying Knock Sensors, Identification Tag (LEFT) & Electrical Connector
NOTE: The left sensor is identified by an identification tag (LEFT) (2). It is also
identified by a larger bolt head. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) must
have and know the correct sensor left/right positions. Do not mix the sensor
locations.
1. Thoroughly clean knock sensor mounting holes.

2. Install sensors (1) into cylinder block.
NOTE: Over or under tightening the sensor mounting bolts will affect knock
sensor performance, possibly causing improper spark control. Always use
the specified torque when installing the knock sensors. The torque for the
knock sensor bolt is relatively light for an 8 mm bolt.
NOTE: Note foam strip on bolt threads. This foam is used only to retain the bolts
to sensors for plant assembly. It is not used as a sealant. Do not apply any
adhesive, sealant or thread locking compound to these bolts.
3. Install and tighten mounting bolts. Tighten to 15 +/- 2 ft. lbs. (20 N.m) (176 in.lbs).
4. Connect knock sensor wiring harness to engine harness at rear of intake manifold.
5. Install intake manifold. Refer to INSTALLATION .
INSTALLATION - 4.0L
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Fig. 17: Identifying Sensor, Sensor Mounting Bolt & Engine

Only one sensor (1) is used with the 4.0L engine. It is attached to the top of the cylinder block below the intake
manifold.
1. Position sensor (1) to engine. Install and tighten mounting bolt (2). Refer to Torque Specifications. Note
foam strip on bolt threads. This foam is used only to retain the bolt to sensor for plant assembly. It is not
used as a sealant. Do not apply any adhesive, sealant or thread locking compound to this bolt.
2. Connect knock sensor pigtail harness to engine wiring harness. This connection is made near front of
engine (3).
3. Install intake manifold. Refer to INSTALLATION .
SPARK PLUG
REMOVAL
SPARK PLUGS
Each individual spark plug is located under each ignition coil. Each individual ignition coil must be removed to
gain access to each spark plug. See REMOVAL.
1. Remove necessary air filter tubing at throttle body.

2. Prior to removing ignition coil, spray compressed air around coil base at cylinder head.
3. Prior to removing spark plug, spray compressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help prevent
foreign material from entering combustion chamber.
4. Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert. Also check
condition of ignition coil O-ring and replace as necessary.
5. Inspect spark plug condition.
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INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
Special care should be taken when installing spark plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be sure the
plugs do not drop into the plug wells as electrodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque. Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a change in
the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain insulator.
1. Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand to avoid cross threading.
2. Tighten spark plugs. Refer to Spark Plug Torque Specifications.
3. Before installing ignition coil(s), check condition of coil O-ring and replace as necessary. To aid in coil
installation, apply silicone to coil O-ring.
4. Install ignition coil(s). See INSTALLATION.
SPARK PLUG CABLE
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
Spark plugs cables are not used with either the 3.7L or 4.0L V-6 engines.
SWITCH-IGNITION
DESCRIPTION
IGNITION SWITCH
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Fig. 18: Identifying Key Cylinder, Gear Shift Lever, Mounting Holes, Steering Column & Ignition Switch
1 - KEY CYLINDER
2 - GEAR SHIFT LEVER
3 - MOUNTING HOLES
4 - STEERING COLUMN
5 - IGNITION SWITCH
The ignition switch (5) is located on the steering column (4). It is used as the main on/off switching device for
most electrical components. The mechanical key cylinder is used to engage/disengage the electrical ignition
switch.
OPERATION
IGNITION SWITCH
Vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission and a steering column mounted shifter: an interlock
device is located within the shift cable. This interlock device is used to lock the transmission shifter in the
PARK position when the key cylinder is in any position and the brake pedal is not depressed.
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IGNITION SWITCH
TEST AND REPAIR
If the key removal effort is excessive on a vehicle with an automatic transmission first adjust the shift linkage,
refer to ADJUSTMENTS .
If the ignition switch effort is excessive, remove the ignition key cylinder from the steering column. Check the
turning effort of the key cylinder. If the ignition key cylinder effort is excessive, replace the key cylinder. Refer
to REMOVAL .
REMOVAL
IGNITION SWITCH
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
Fig. 19: Identifying Key Cylinder, Gear Shift Lever, Mounting Holes, Steering Column & Ignition Switch
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1 - KEY CYLINDER
3 - MOUNTING HOLES
4 - STEERING COLUMN
5 - IGNITION SWITCH
NOTE: The steering column on vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission is

not equipped with an internal locking shaft with the ignition cylinder. Alternative
methods of locking the steering wheel for service will have to be used.
The tilt and standard column (4) have been designed to be serviced as an assembly; without wiring, switches,
shrouds, steering wheel, etc. Most steering column components can be serviced without removing the steering
column from the vehicle. See Fig. 19.
Safety goggles should be worn at all times when working on steering columns.
To service the steering wheel, switches or airbag, Refer to Electrical Restraints and follow all WARNINGS and
CAUTIONS.
WARNING: The airbag system is a sensitive, complex electro-mechanical unit. Before

attempting to diagnose, remove or install the airbag system components
you must first disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable.
Then wait two minutes for the system capacitor to discharge. Failure to
do so could result in accidental deployment of the air bag and possible
personal injury. The fasteners, screws and bolts, originally used for the
airbag components, have special coatings and are specifically designed
for the airbag system. They must never be replaced with any substitutes.
Anytime a new fastener is needed, replace with the correct fasteners
provided in the service package or fasteners listed in the parts books.
CAUTION: Do not hammer on steering column shaft. This may cause damage to the
shaft or bearing.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to remove the pivot bolts to disassemble the tilting
mechanism.
The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed first
before removing ignition switch.
1. Remove the negative (ground) cable from the battery.

2. Disable the airbag, refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the lower and upper shrouds.
4. Remove key cylinder. Refer to REMOVAL .
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5. Disconnect the lower clockspring connectors.

6. Remove the wire retainer from the tilt lever bracket.
Fig. 20: Ignition Switch & Tilt Lever Mechanism

1 - IGNITION SWITCH
2 - TILT LEVER MECHANISM
7. Remove the tilt lever mounting screws to gain access to the ignition switch (1) mounting screws. See Fig.
20
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Fig. 21: Ignition Switch Mounting Screws & Non-Tilt Mounting Bracket Screws
1 - Ignition Switch Mounting Screws

2 - Non-Tilt Mounting Bracket Screws
8. For columns without tilt remove the bracket (2) to gain access to the ignition switch mounting screws (1).
See Fig. 21
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Fig. 22: Ignition Switch & Ignition Switch Mounting Screws

1 - Ignition Switch
9. Disconnect the electrical connector at rear of ignition switch (1). See Fig. 22.
10. Remove ignition switch mounting screws (2).
11. Using a small screwdriver, push on locking tab and remove switch from steering column.
INSTALLATION
IGNITION SWITCH
The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed first
before installing ignition switch.
1. Before installing ignition switch, rotate the slot in the switch to the ON position.
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Fig. 23: Ignition Switch & Ignition Switch Mounting Screws

1 - Ignition Switch
2. Connect the electrical connector to rear of the ignition switch. Make sure that locking tabs are fully seated
into wiring connector.
3. Position switch (1) to column and install the mounting screws (2). Tighten screw to 3 N.m (26 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 24: Ignition Switch & Tilt Lever Mechanism

1 - IGNITION SWITCH
2 - TILT LEVER MECHANISM
4. Install the tilt lever bracket (2) mounting screws. Tighten screws to 4.5 N.m (40 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 25: Ignition Switch Mounting Screws & Non-Tilt Mounting Bracket Screws

2 - Non-Tilt Mounting Bracket Screws
5. If the column is non-tilt install the bracket. Tighten screws (2) to 4.5 N.m (40 in. lbs.). See Fig. 25
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Fig. 26: Identifying Key Cylinder, Gear Shift Lever, Mounting holes, Steering Column & Ignition
1 - KEY CYLINDER
3 - MOUNTING HOLES
4 - STEERING COLUMN
5 - IGNITION SWITCH
6. Position the wire retainer into the tilt lever bracket.

7. Reconnect the lower clockspring connectors.
8. Install the key cylinder (1)
9. Install steering column upper and lower shrouds.
10. Enable the airbag system. Refer to INSTALLATION .
SWITCH-KEY-IN IGNITION
DESCRIPTION
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KEY-IN IGNITION SWITCH
The key-in ignition switch is integral to the ignition switch, which is mounted on the left side of the steering
column. It closes a path to ground for the Central Timer Module (CTM) when the ignition key is inserted in the
ignition key cylinder and the driver door ajar switch is closed (driver door is open). The key-in ignition switch
opens the ground path when the key is removed from the ignition key cylinder. The ground path is also opened
when the driver door ajar switch is open (driver door is closed).
The key-in ignition switch cannot be repaired and, if faulty or damaged, the entire ignition switch must be
replaced, refer to REMOVAL .
IGNITION SWITCH AND KEY LOCK CYLINDER
ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
For ignition switch electrical schematics, refer to Ignition Switch in the appropriate Electrical Wiring Diagrams
article.
MECHANICAL DIAGNOSIS (KEY DIFFICULT TO ROTATE)
Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .
CYLINDER-KEY/LOCK
REMOVAL
LOCK CYLINDER HOUSING
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Fig. 27: Key, Key Cylinder & Retaining Pin Holes

1 - KEY
2 - KEY CYLINDER
3 - RETAINING PIN HOLE
The ignition key (1) must be in the key cylinder (2) for cylinder removal.

2. Remove upper and lower covers (shrouds) from steering column.
3. Place shifter in PARK position.
4. A retaining pin is located at side of key cylinder assembly (2). See Fig. 27.
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Fig. 28: Key Cylinder & Punch

1 - KEY CYLINDER
2 - PUNCH
 Rotate key to RUN position.

 Press in on retaining pin while pulling key cylinder (1) from ignition switch. See Fig. 28.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 29: Key, Key Cylinder & Retaining Pin Holes

1 - KEY
2 - KEY CYLINDER
3 - RETAINING PIN HOLE
The ignition key (1) must be in the key cylinder (2) for cylinder installation.
1. Install the key cylinder into the housing using care to align the end of the key cylinder (2) with the
ignition switch.
2. Push the key cylinder (2) in until it clicks.
3. Replace the upper and lower shrouds.
4. Reconnect the battery.
PLUG-GLOW 2.8L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
GLOW PLUG
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Fig. 30: Glow Plug

CAUTION: The glow plugs operate on a 4.4-volt system. The glow plugs DO NOT
tolerate any over voltage. Full battery voltage will destroy the glow plug
immediately. DO NOT test the glow plugs with a 12V source as damage will
occur to the glow plug.
CAUTION: Never bend, bump or knock the fast metallic glow plugs.
Fast metallic glow plugs must not be handled loose in a container.
Store, handle, and transport them only in original boxes.
If there is any doubt about the proper condition of a glow plug, do not
reuse it.
Do not clean the glow plugs with abrasive or aggressive media.
Avoid dipping the glow plug into fluids.
Read Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). If a glow plug problem is
indicated, do not start the engine.
CAUTION: Disregarding these instructions may cause severe engine damage.
Glow plugs are used to help start a cold or cool engine. The glow plugs will heat up and glow to heat the
combustion chamber of each cylinder. An individual glow plug is used for each cylinder.
OPERATION
GLOW PLUG
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Fig. 31: Glow Plug

CAUTION: The glow plugs operate on a 4.4-volt system. DO NOT test the glow plugs
with a 12 V source as damage will occur to the glow plug(s).
The Engine Control Module (ECM) monitors various engine sensors. When the ignition key is turned to the ON
position, the ECM sends a signal to the glow plug module (relay) to turn on, and cycle, the glow plugs for a pre-
determined amount of time, plus illuminate the glow plug light in the instrument panel. Once activated, the
element inside of the core of the glow plug begins to glow. Each glow plug draws approximately 8 amps, for a
total system amperage of 32 amps at 22°C (72°F) ambient temperature. If there is a fault with the glow plug
system, the ECM will store a fault code.
GLOW PLUG SYSTEM
CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to start the engine until the glow plug system tests
correctly.
1. Measure the electrical resistance of each glow plug while it is still installed in the cylinder head.
Resistance should be less than 0.8 ohm between the electrical connector point on the glow plug and the
cylinder head. The ground contact on the DVOM must be as close as possible to the point where the glow
plug contacts the cylinder head to avoid erratic resistance measurements.
2. If the resistance is out of tolerance, remove the glow plug from the cylinder head and check the resistance
again.
3. Use the actuator test function of the scan tool to test the glow plug module and glow plug lamp. The glow
plug module's on-board diagnostic tests will automatically check the electrical condition of the entire
glow plug system.
4. After the scan tool glow plug actuator test function is complete, if MIL is OFF and no glow plug DTCs
are present, testing is complete and the engine can be started.
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5. If MIL is still ON, check the harness connectors of glow plugs, repair any loose or damaged connections,
and run the glow plug actuator test again.
6. If MIL is still ON and glow plug DTCs are present, refer to 9 - Engine Electrical Diagnostics - Diesel,
and follow the diagnostic test(s) related to the active or stored DTCs.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 32: Glow Plugs & Wiring Harness

The four glow plugs (1) are attached to cylinder head below fuel rail.

2. Remove fuel rail and high-pressure fuel lines.
3. Disconnect glow plug wiring harness (2) at all four glow plugs (1).
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Fig. 33: Glow Plugs - 2.8L Diesel

4. Use a socket to loosen glow plug(s) (1), (2), (3) or (4). After loosening, attach a flexible tool such as a
rubber hose to remove glow plug from cylinder head.
CAUTION: After plug removal, do not bend, knock, or drop the glow plugs while
handling (any mechanical impact may damage the glow plug).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 34: Glow Plugs - 2.8L Diesel

1. Apply a small amount of clean diesel oil or motor oil to glow plug threads.
2. Attach a flexible tool such as a rubber hose to install glow plug into cylinder head. Tighten each plug to
14 N.m (10 ft. lbs.) (124 in. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 35: Glow Plugs & Glow Plug Wiring Harness

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3. Connect glow plug wiring harness (2) to all four glow plugs (1).
4. Install fuel rail and high-pressure fuel lines.
RELAY-GLOW PLUG 2.8L DIESEL
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 36: Identifying Glow Plug Relay (Module), ECM Mounting Bracket, Electrical Connector & Pin
The glow plug relay (module) (1) is located in the engine compartment. It is attached to the ECM mounting
bracket (2).
1. Remove pin (4).

2. Disconnect electrical connector (3) and remove relay.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 37: Identifying Glow Plug Relay (Module), ECM Mounting Bracket, Electrical Connector & Pin
The glow plug relay (module) (1) is located in the engine compartment. It is attached to the ECM mounting
bracket (2).
1. Connect electrical connector (3) to relay (1).

2. Position relay to mounting bracket (2) and install pin (4).
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2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Instrument Cluster - Service Information - Nitro
Instrument Cluster - Service Information - Nitro
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
DESCRIPTION
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
Fig. 1: Identifying Cluster Bezel & Instrument Cluster

The instrument cluster (2) for this vehicle is an Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) that is located in
the instrument panel above the steering column opening, directly in front of the driver. The remainder of the
EMIC, including the mounts and the electrical connections, are concealed within the instrument panel below the
cluster bezel (1). The instrument cluster for this vehicle also includes the hardware and software necessary to
serve as the electronic body control module and is sometimes referred to as the Cab Compartment Node or
CCN.
Besides analog gauges and indicators, the EMIC module incorporates one standard blue-green digital Vacuum
Fluorescent Display (VFD) unit. A second optional VFD unit is available in some vehicles. The standard VFD
is a fixed segment unit for displaying odometer information, automatic transmission gear selector position
(PRNDL), and several other indicators. The optional compass/temperature VFD unit is a large fixed segment
display. The optional Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) VFD unit is a large reconfigurable display
unit. These optional VFD units serve as the visual display for the compass, the outside temperature, the trip
computer, the audio system settings as well as the user interface for the customer programmable features,
numerous textual warning or reminder indicators and certain diagnostic information depending upon vehicle
equipment.
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Fig. 2: Identifying Plastic Rear Cover, Cluster Housing, Plastic Cluster Lens & Mask Unit
The EMIC gauges and indicators are visible through three dedicated openings in the cluster bezel and are
protected by a clear plastic cluster lens (5). Nine integral latch formations on the lens secure it to the cluster
hood and mask unit (4) as well as the cluster housing (2). Just behind the cluster lens is the cluster hood and
integral mask, which is constructed of molded black plastic. The hood serves as a visor and shields the face of
the cluster from ambient light and reflections to reduce glare, while the cluster mask serves to separate and
define the individual gauges and trims the outside perimeter of the cluster overlay. The hood and mask unit has
eight integral latch features that secure it to the outer perimeter of the cluster housing. The hood and mask unit
also has two integral mounting tabs on the lower corners that combine with the tabs integral to the cluster
housing to secure the bottom of the EMIC to the molded plastic instrument panel cluster carrier with two
screws.
The rear of the cluster housing and the EMIC electronic circuitry are protected by a molded white plastic rear
cover (1), which is also secured to the cluster housing by integral latch features. The rear cover includes
clearance holes for the four cluster connector receptacles. The connector receptacles on the back of the cluster
electronic circuit board connect the EMIC to the vehicle electrical system through four take outs with
connectors from the instrument panel wire harness.
Sandwiched between the rear cover and the lens and hood unit is the cluster housing. The molded white plastic
cluster housing serves as the carrier for the cluster circuit board and circuitry, the cluster connector receptacles,
the two major and two minor gauges, a Light Emitting Diode (LED) for each cluster indicator, the VFD display
units, an audible tone transducer, several LED units for general cluster illumination, the cluster overlay, and the
gauge pointers. The standard equipment molded black plastic odometer/trip odometer switch button (3) extends
from the face of the cluster housing through dedicated holes in the cluster mask and the cluster lens adjacent to
their respective VFD units. A black rubber grommet seals the switch button to the clearance hole in the lens.
The cluster housing also has four integral mounting tabs, one on each upper and lower corner of the housing.
The cluster overlay is a laminated plastic unit. The dark, visible, outer surface of the overlay is marked with all
of the gauge dial faces and graduations, but this layer is also translucent. The darkness of this outer layer
prevents the cluster from appearing cluttered or busy by concealing the cluster indicators that are not
illuminated, while the translucence of this layer allows those indicators and icons that are illuminated to be
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readily visible. The underlying layer of the overlay is opaque and allows light from the LED for each of the
various indicators and illumination lamps behind it to be visible through the outer layer of the overlay through
predetermined stencil-like cutouts. Openings in the overlay at the base of the tachometer and the minor gauge
set dial faces have smoked clear lenses through which the illuminated VFD units can be viewed.
Several versions of the EMIC module are offered on this vehicle. These versions accommodate all of the
variations of optional equipment and regulatory requirements for the various markets in which the vehicle is
offered. The microprocessor-based EMIC utilizes integrated circuitry and information carried on the Controller
Area Network (CAN) data bus and the Local Interface Network (LIN) data bus along with several hard wired
analog and multiplexed inputs to monitor sensors and switches throughout the vehicle. In response to those
inputs, the internal circuitry and programming of the EMIC allow it to control and integrate many electronic
functions and features of the vehicle through both hard wired outputs and the transmission of electronic
message outputs to other electronic modules in the vehicle over the CAN and LIN data busses. Refer to
DESCRIPTION .
Besides typical instrument cluster gauge and indicator support, the electronic functions and features that the
EMIC supports or controls include the following:
 Audible Warnings - The EMIC electronic circuit board is equipped with an audible tone transducer and
programming that allows it to provide various audible alerts to the vehicle operator. These alerts include
single chime tones and continuous slow or fast tones. An electromechanical relay is also soldered onto the
circuit board to produce audible clicks that are used to emulate the sound of a conventional turn signal or
hazard warning flasher.
 Compass/Temperature Display Support - The EMIC provides support for each of the functions and
features of the compass/temperature display, as well as for the odometer push button switch, which also
provides user inputs to control the compass/temperature display options.
 Electronic Vehicle Information Center Display Support - The EMIC provides support for each of the
functions and features of the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) display. This includes
support for the compass, thermometer and audio system mode, customer programmable features, textual
warnings, premium Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM), trip computer, U-Connect™ Hands-Free
communication and the switch inputs from the two EVIC rocker switches located on the front surface of
the steering wheel spokes that are used to control and configure many of the displays. This also includes
display arbitrator programming, which controls the priorities, sequences, and transition of information
that is displayed in the EVIC display, particularly when multiple display requests are received
simultaneously.
 Enhanced Accident Response Support - The EMIC monitors inputs from the Occupant Restraint
Controller (ORC) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to automatically turn ON the interior
lighting after an airbag deployment event, 10 seconds after the vehicle speed is zero. The interior lighting
remains illuminated until the key is removed from the ignition switch lock cylinder, at which time the
interior lighting returns to normal operation and control. These Enhanced Accident Response System
(EARS) features are each dependent upon a functional vehicle electrical system following the vehicle
impact event.
 Exterior Lighting Switch Support - The EMIC monitors electronic exterior lighting switch , and turn
signal switch status messages from the Steering Control Module (SCM) on the steering column over the
LIN data bus and transmits the appropriate electronic exterior lighting and turn signal request messages
to the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) over the CAN data bus to support the exterior lighting
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functions.
 Horn Switch Support - On vehicles without the optional EVIC, the EMIC receives a hard wired input
from the horn switch on the steering wheel. On vehicles with the optional EVIC, the EMIC receives
electronic horn switch status messages from the Steering Wheel Switch Module (SWSM) over the LIN
bus. In either case, the EMIC then provides electronic horn request messages over the CAN data bus to
support the horn function.
 Interior Lamp Load Shedding - The EMIC provides a battery saver feature which will automatically
turn OFF all interior lamps if they remain ON after a timed interval of about ten minutes.
 Interior Lighting Control - The EMIC monitors electronic messages and hard wired inputs from the
reading lamp switches, the Sentry Key REmote Entry Module (SKREEM) (also known as the Wireless
Control Module/WCM), the Steering Control Module (SCM) and the Totally Integrated Power Module
(TIPM) to provide courtesy lamp control. This includes support for timed illuminated entry with theater-
style fade-to-OFF and courtesy illumination DEFEAT features.
 Local Interface Network Master Module - The EMIC is the master module for the LIN data bus. In this
role it gathers information from the compass sensor, the Heated Seat Module (HSM), the instrument
panel switch pod, the Steering Wheel Switch Module (SWSM), the SCM and the remote compass
module, then either acts on that information directly or places electronic messages on the CAN data bus
for use by other modules
 Panel Lamps Dimming Control - The EMIC monitors electronic dimming level messages received
from the panel lamps dimmer switch input to the SCM over the LIN data bus, then provides both a hard
wired 12-volt Pulse-Width Modulated (PWM) output and electronic message outputs over the CAN data
bus and the LIN data bus that synchronizes the dimming level of all panel lamps dimmer controlled lamps
with that of the cluster general illumination lighting.
 Wiper and Washer Switch Support - The EMIC monitors electronic wiper switch and washer switch
status messages from the SCM on the steering column over the LIN data bus and transmits the
appropriate electronic wiper and washer request messages to the TIPM over the CAN data bus to
support the wiper and washer system functions, including the headlamps-on with wipers programmable
feature.
Fig. 3: Analog Gauge Indicators

The EMIC houses four analog gauges and has provisions for up to 25 indicators. Some of the EMIC indicators
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are automatically configured when the EMIC is connected to the vehicle electrical system for compatibility with
certain optional equipment or equipment required for regulatory purposes in certain markets. While each EMIC
may have provisions for indicators to support every available option, the configurable indicators will not be
functional in a vehicle that does not have the equipment that an indicator supports.
The EMIC includes the following analog gauges:
 Engine Temperature Gauge (5)

 Fuel Gauge (1)
 Speedometer (6)
 Tachometer (11)
The EMIC includes the following VFD display units:
 Odometer Display (15) - includes Cruise indicator (13), Gear Selector indicator (12), Malfunction
Indicator Lamp (MIL) (16) and Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) indicator (14).
 Compass-Temperature or Electronic Vehicle Information Center Display (31)
The EMIC includes provisions for the following indicators:
 Airbag Indicator (30)

 Ajar Indicators (15 or 31) - text in odometer display for doors and liftgate in clusters without EVIC, or
icons in the EVIC display of vehicles with that option
 Antilock Brake System (ABS) Indicator (27)
 Brake Indicator (19) - text only for U.S. market, icon only for markets outside U.S.
 Charging Indicator (23)
 Cruise Indicator (13)
 Electronic Stability Program (ESP)/Brake Assist System (BAS) Indicator (9)
 Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) Indicator (20)
 Engine Coolant Temperature Indicator (4)
 Front Fog Lamp Indicator (28) - with optional front fog lamps only
 Gas Cap Indicator - textual message in odometer display (15)
 Gear Selector Indicator (12) - with automatic transmission only
 High Beam Indicator (7)
 Low Fuel Indicator (2)
 Low Oil Pressure Indicator (29)
 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) (16)
 Rear Fog Lamp Indicator (21) - in markets where rear fog lamps are available only
 Seat Belt Indicator (3)
 Security Indicator (8)
 Service Four-Wheel Drive (4WD) Indicator (26) - with optional four-wheel drive system only
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 Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) Indicator (14)

 Tow/Haul Indicator (10) - with automatic transmission only
 Traction Control/Electronic Stability Program (ESP) Indicator (24)
 Transmission Temperature Indicator (18) - with automatic transmission only
 Turn Signal (Right and Left) Indicators (17)
 Wait-To-Start Indicator (22) - with diesel engine only
 Water-In-Fuel Indicator (25) - with diesel engine only
Each indicator in the EMIC, except those located within a VFD unit, is illuminated by a dedicated LED that is
soldered onto the EMIC electronic circuit board. Cluster illumination is accomplished by several dimmable
LED units, which illuminate each of the gauge dial faces for visibility when the exterior lighting is turned ON.
These LED units are not available for service replacement and, if damaged or ineffective, the entire EMIC must
be replaced.
Hard wired circuitry connects the EMIC to the electrical system of the vehicle. These hard wired circuits are
integral to several wire harnesses, which are routed throughout the vehicle and retained by many different
methods. These circuits may be connected to each other, to the vehicle electrical system and to the EMIC
through the use of a combination of soldered splices, splice block connectors, and many different types of wire
harness terminal connectors and insulators. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring information
includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair procedures, further details on wire harness routing
and retention, as well as pin-out and location views for the various wire harness connectors, splices and
grounds.
The EMIC module for this vehicle is serviced only as a complete unit. The EMIC module cannot be adjusted or
repaired. If a gauge, an LED unit, a VFD unit, the electronic circuit board, the circuit board hardware, the
cluster overlay or the cluster housing are damaged or ineffective, the entire EMIC module must be replaced.
The cluster lens and the cluster hood and mask unit are available for separate service replacement.
OPERATION
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
The Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) in this vehicle also includes the hardware and software
necessary to serve as the electronic body control module and is sometimes referred to as the Cab Compartment
Node or CCN. The following information deals primarily with the instrument cluster functions of this unit.
Additional details of the electronic body control functions of this unit may be found within the service
information for the system or component that the EMIC controls. For example: Additional details of the audible
warning functions of the EMIC are found within the Chime/Buzzer service information.
The EMIC is designed to allow the vehicle operator to monitor the conditions of many of the vehicle
components and operating systems. The gauges and indicators in the EMIC provide valuable information about
the various standard and optional powertrains, fuel and emissions systems, cooling systems, lighting systems,
safety systems and many other convenience items. The EMIC is installed in the instrument panel so that all of
these monitors can be easily viewed by the vehicle operator when driving, while still allowing relative ease of
access for service.
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The microprocessor-based EMIC hardware and software uses various inputs to control the gauges and
indicators visible on the face of the cluster. Some of these inputs are hard wired, but most are in the form of
electronic messages that are transmitted by other electronic modules over the Controller Area Network (CAN)
data bus or the Local Interface Network (LIN) data bus. The EMIC is the master node for the LIN data bus.
Refer to OPERATION .
The EMIC microprocessor smooths the input data using algorithms to provide gauge readings that are accurate,
stable and responsive to operating conditions. These algorithms are designed to provide gauge readings during
normal operation that are consistent with customer expectations. However, when abnormal conditions exist
such as high coolant temperature, the algorithm can drive the gauge pointer to an extreme position and the
microprocessor can sound a chime through the on-board audible tone transducer to provide distinct visual and
audible indications of a problem to the vehicle operator. The EMIC may also produce audible warnings for
other electronic modules in the vehicle based upon electronic tone request messages received over the CAN or
LIN data bus. Each audible warning is intended to provide the vehicle operator with an audible alert to
supplement a visual indication.
The EMIC circuitry operates on battery current received through a fused B(+) fuse on a non-switched fused B
(+) circuit, and on battery current received through a fused ignition switch output (run-start) fuse on a fused
ignition switch output (run-start) circuit. This arrangement allows the EMIC to provide some features regardless
of the ignition switch position, while other features will operate only with the ignition switch in the ON or
START positions. The EMIC circuitry is grounded through a ground circuit and take out of the instrument panel
wire harness with an eyelet terminal connector that is secured by a ground screw to a ground location on the
instrument panel structural support.
The EMIC also has a self-diagnostic actuator test capability, which will test each of the CAN or LIN bus
message-controlled functions of the cluster by lighting the appropriate indicators, positioning the gauge needles
at several predetermined calibration points across the gauge faces, and illuminating all segments of the
Vacuum-Fluorescent Display (VFD) units. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
GAUGES
All gauges receive battery current through the EMIC circuitry only when the ignition switch is in the ON or
START positions. With the ignition switch in the OFF position battery current is not supplied to any gauges,
and the EMIC circuitry is programmed to move all of the gauge needles back to the low end of their respective
scales. Therefore, the gauges do not accurately indicate any vehicle condition unless the ignition switch is in the
ON or START positions.
Each of the EMIC gauges contains an electronically controlled stepper motor unit. The EMIC circuitry
completely controls the activation and deactivation of these stepper motors to position each gauge needle in the
appropriate position based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received over the CAN or LIN
data bus.
The gauges are diagnosed using the self-diagnostic Cab Compartment Node (CCN) actuator test. Proper testing
of the CAN or LIN data bus and the electronic data bus message inputs to the EMIC that control each gauge
requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information. Specific operation
details for each gauge may be found elsewhere in this service information.
VACUUM-FLUORESCENT DISPLAYS
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The Vacuum-Fluorescent Display (VFD) units are soldered to the EMIC electronic circuit board. Both the
standard odometer unit located below the tachometer and the optional compass/temperature unit located below
the minor gauge set are fixed segment displays. The optional Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC)
VFD unit located below the minor gauge set is a reconfigurable segment display. With the ignition switch in the
OFF or ACCESSORY positions, both VFD displays are activated and the total odometer information is
displayed when the driver door is opened (Rental Car Mode) and are deactivated when the driver door is closed
or after five minutes, whichever occurs first. Otherwise, both display units are active when the ignition switch is
in the ON or START positions, and inactive when the ignition switch is in the OFF or ACCESSORY positions.
The illumination intensity of the VFD units is controlled by the EMIC circuitry based upon electronic dimming
level messages received over the CAN data bus indicating the exterior lighting is turned ON and the dimming
level selected using the panel dimmer function of the control sleeve on the control stalk of the left (lighting)
multi-function switch. The illumination intensity of the EMIC VFD units is synchronized with that of other
display units in the vehicle by sending the same electronic dimming level message inputs to all electronic
modules in the vehicle over the CAN or LIN data bus. However, if the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) indicator
or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is active, the odometer VFD will illuminate at full daytime brightness
until the TPM indicator or MIL is extinguished.
The odometer VFD unit has several display capabilities including odometer, trip odometer A and B, gear
selector indication (PRNDL) for vehicles with an automatic transmission, several warning or reminder
indications, and various diagnostic information when certain fault conditions exist. On vehicles not equipped
with the optional compass/temperature display or EVIC, the odometer display toggles to an outside temperature
display following Trip B. The compass/temperature VFD unit displays numerous warning or reminder textual
messages, compass, temperature, the customer programmable features interface and various diagnostic
information when certain fault conditions exist. An odometer/trip odometer switch on the EMIC circuit board is
used to control many of the display modes of the VFD units. These switches are actuated manually by
depressing the odometer/trip odometer push button that extends through the lower edge of the cluster lens,
adjacent to the odometer VFD.
Actuating the odometer/trip odometer push button momentarily with the ignition switch in the ON position will
toggle the odometer VFD between the odometer and trip odometer modes. Depressing the odometer/trip
odometer push button for about two seconds while the VFD is in the trip odometer mode will reset the trip
odometer value to zero. Holding the odometer/trip odometer push button depressed while turning the ignition
switch from the OFF position to the ON position will initiate the CCN self-diagnostic actuator test. Refer to the
instrument cluster diagnosis and testing service information for additional details on this cluster function. The
EMIC microprocessor remembers which odometer display mode is active when the ignition switch is turned to
the OFF position, and returns the display to that mode when the ignition switch is turned ON again.
Actuating the odometer/trip odometer push button momentarily with the ignition switch in the ON position will
toggle the CMTC VFD between the various display functions and the various customer programmable feature
selectors. The EMIC microprocessor remembers which display modes are active when the ignition switch is
turned to the OFF position, and returns the display to that mode when the ignition switch is turned ON again.
Both VFD units are diagnosed using the self-diagnostic Cab Compartment Node (CCN) actuator test. See
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING. Proper testing of the CAN or LIN data bus message inputs to the EMIC that
control some of the VFD functions requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic
information. Specific operation details for the odometer, the trip odometer, the gear selector indicator, the
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compass/temperature display, the EVIC and the various warning and reminder indicator functions of the VFD
units may be found elsewhere in this service information.
INDICATORS
Indicators are located in various positions within the EMIC and are all connected to the EMIC electronic circuit
board. Some indicators operate based upon hard wired inputs to the EMIC, but most are controlled by CAN or
LIN data bus messages from other electronic modules in the vehicle. Some are controlled by a combination of
hard wired inputs, electronic messaging and EMIC programming. If the EMIC loses CAN data bus
communication, the EMIC circuitry will automatically turn ON the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) until
CAN data bus communication is restored.
The various EMIC indicators are controlled by different strategies; some receive fused ignition switch output
from the EMIC circuitry and have a switched ground, while others are grounded through the EMIC circuitry
and have a switched battery feed. However, all indicators are completely controlled by the EMIC
microprocessor based upon various hard wired and electronic message inputs. The cruise and 4WD indicators
located within the odometer VFD unit are dimmable. All other indicators are illuminated at a fixed intensity,
which is not affected by the selected illumination intensity of the EMIC general illumination LED units. The
illumination intensity of the dimmable indicators is synchronized with that of the general illumination lighting.
In addition, certain indicators in this instrument cluster are automatically or self-configured. This feature allows
the configurable indicators to be enabled by the EMIC circuitry for compatibility with certain optional
equipment. These indicators are enabled or disabled by an electronic configuration message sent to the EMIC
by the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). The TIPM defaults for the ABS indicator and airbag indicator
are enabled, and these configuration settings must be programmatically disabled in the TIPM using a diagnostic
scan tool for vehicles that do not have this equipment. The automatically or self-configured indicators remain
latent in each EMIC at all times and will be active only when the EMIC receives the appropriate CAN or LIN
bus message inputs for that optional system or equipment.
The hard wired indicator inputs may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures.
However, the EMIC circuitry and electronic CAN or LIN data bus message controlled indicators are diagnosed
using the self-diagnostic Cab Compartment Node (CCN) actuator test. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
Proper testing of the CAN or LIN data bus and the electronic data bus message inputs to the EMIC that control
each indicator requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
Specific details of the operation for each indicator may be found elsewhere in this service information.
CLUSTER ILLUMINATION
The EMIC has several Light Emitting Diode (LED) units that provide cluster back lighting whenever the
exterior lighting is turned ON. The illumination intensity of these LED units is adjusted when the panel lamps
dimmer function of the control sleeve on the control stalk of the left (lighting) multi-function switch is rotated
to one of six available minor detent positions. The EMIC monitors an electronic dimming level message input
received over the LIN data bus from the Steering Control Module (SCM) to determine the selected lighting
level. In response to that input, the EMIC electronic circuitry converts a fused 12-volt input it receives on a hard
wired panel lamps dimmer switch signal circuit into a 12-volt Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) output.
The EMIC uses this PWM output to control the illumination intensity of the cluster general illumination lighting
and the VFD units on the EMIC circuit board, then provides a synchronized PWM output on various hard wired
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fused panel lamps dimmer switch signal circuits to control and synchronize the illumination intensity of other
incandescent illumination lamps in the vehicle. The EMIC also transmits electronic dimming level messages
over the CAN and LIN data bus to other electronic modules in the vehicle to control and synchronize the
illumination intensity of their display units to that of the EMIC displays.
The hard wired panel lamps dimmer outputs from the EMIC may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic
tools and procedures. However, proper testing of the PWM processing of the EMIC and the electronic dimming
level messages received by the EMIC over the LIN data bus requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
If all of the instrument cluster gauges and indicators are ineffective, be certain to check the instrument cluster
fused B(+) fuse and the instrument cluster fused B(+) and ground circuits for shorts or opens. Refer to the
repair procedures, details of wire harness routing and retention, connector pin-out information and location
views for the various wire harness connectors, splices and grounds.
If an individual hard wired gauge or indicator is ineffective, refer to the diagnosis and testing service
information for that specific gauge or indicator. If an individual Controller Area Network (CAN) or Local
Interface Network (LIN) data bus message-controlled gauge or indicator is ineffective, perform the Actuator
Test as follows:
CAUTION: Instrument clusters used in this vehicle automatically configure

themselves for compatibility with the features and optional equipment in
the vehicle in which they are initially installed. The instrument cluster is
programmed to do this by embedding the Vehicle Identification Number
(VIN) and other information critical to proper cluster operation into
electronic memory. This embedded information is learned through
electronic messages received from other electronic modules in the vehicle
over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus, and through certain hard
wired inputs received when the cluster is connected to the vehicle
electrically. Once configured, the instrument cluster memory may be
irreparably damaged and certain irreversible configuration errors may
occur if the cluster is connected electrically to another vehicle; or, if an
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electronic module from another vehicle is connected that provides data to

the instrument cluster (including odometer values) that conflicts with that
which was previously learned and stored. Therefore, the practice of
exchanging (swapping) instrument clusters and other electronic modules
in this vehicle with those removed from another vehicle must always be
avoided. Failure to observe this caution may result in instrument cluster
damage, which is not reimbursable under the terms of the product
warranty. Service replacement instrument clusters are provided with the
correct VIN, and the certified odometer and engine hours values
embedded into cluster memory, but will otherwise be automatically
configured for compatibility with the features and optional equipment in
the vehicle in which they are initially installed.
NOTE: Certain indicators in this instrument cluster are automatically configured. This
feature allows those indicators to be activated or deactivated for compatibility
with certain optional equipment. If the problem being diagnosed involves
improper illumination of the cruise indicator, the electronic throttle control
indicator, the fog lamp indicator, any of the four-wheel drive indicators, the
transmission overtemp indicator, the security indicator or the gear selector
indicator, disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. After about five
minutes, reconnect the battery negative cable and turn the ignition switch to the
ON position. The instrument cluster should automatically relearn the equipment
in the vehicle and properly configure the configurable indicators accordingly.
ACTUATOR TEST
The instrument cluster actuator test will put the instrument cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the
instrument cluster can perform a self-diagnostic test that will confirm that the instrument cluster circuitry, the
gauges and the indicators are capable of operating as designed. During the actuator test the instrument cluster
circuitry will position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate each of the segments in
the Vacuum-Fluorescent Display (VFD) units, and turn all of the indicators ON and OFF again.
Successful completion of the actuator test will confirm that the instrument cluster is operational. However, there
may still be a problem with the CAN or LIN data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Totally
Integrated Power Module (TIPM), the Controller Antilock Brake (CAB), the Occupant Restraint Controller
(ORC), the compass module, the Sentry Key REmote Entry Module (SKREEM) (also known as the Wireless
Control Module/WCM), the Steering Wheel Switch Module (SWSM) or the inputs to one of these electronic
control modules. Use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose these components. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic
information.
1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
2. Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
3. While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the
ON position, but do not start the engine.
4. Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
5. The instrument cluster will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in the VFD
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units, and perform a bulb check of each operational LED indicator. The VFD segments and LED
indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a
VFD segment or an LED indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the
calibration points and back during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced.
6. The actuator test is now completed. The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic
mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test. The actuator test will be aborted if the
ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if an electronic vehicle speed message indicating that the
vehicle is moving is received over the CAN data bus during the test.
7. Go back to step 1 to repeat the test, if necessary.
REMOVAL
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
Fig. 4: Removing/Installing Screws That Secure Instrument Cluster To Instrument Panel Base Trim

2. Remove the cluster bezel from the instrument panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the four screws (3) that secure the instrument cluster (1) to the instrument panel base trim (2).
4. Pull the top of the instrument cluster rearward far enough to access and disconnect the instrument panel
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wire harness connectors from the connector receptacles on the back of the cluster housing.
5. Remove the instrument cluster from the instrument panel.
DISASSEMBLY
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
NOTE: Some of the components for the instrument cluster used in this vehicle are
serviced individually. The serviced components include the cluster lens and the
cluster hood and mask unit. Following are the procedures for disassembling
these components from the instrument cluster.
CLUSTER LENS

2. Remove the instrument cluster from the instrument panel. See REMOVAL.
3. Working around the perimeter of the cluster, disengage each of the nine integral latch features that secure
the cluster lens (5) to the cluster hood and mask unit (3) and to the cluster housing (2).
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4. Remove the lens from the face of the cluster hood and mask unit.
CLUSTER HOOD AND MASK

2. Remove the instrument cluster from the instrument panel. See REMOVAL.
3. Remove the cluster lens (5) from the face of the cluster hood and mask unit (3). Refer to step CLUSTER
LENS.
4. Working around the perimeter of the cluster, disengage each of the eight integral latch features that secure
the cluster hood and mask unit to the cluster housing (2).
5. Remove the hood and mask unit from the face of the instrument cluster.
ASSEMBLY
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
NOTE: Some of the components for the instrument cluster used in this vehicle are
serviced individually. The serviced components include the cluster lens and the
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cluster hood and mask unit. Following are the procedures for assembling these
components onto the instrument cluster.
CLUSTER LENS
1. Position the cluster lens (5) over the face of the cluster hood and mask unit (3). Be certain that the rubber
grommet (4) for the odometer/trip odometer switch push button is installed in the clearance hole in the
lens, and that the push button is engaged through the grommet.
2. Working around the perimeter of the cluster, press the lens over the face of the hood and mask until each
of the nine integral latch features is fully engaged in the receptacles of the hood and mask or the cluster
housing (2).
3. Reinstall the instrument cluster onto the instrument panel. See INSTALLATION.
CLUSTER HOOD AND MASK
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1. Position the cluster hood and mask unit (3) over the face of the cluster housing (2). Be certain that the
odometer/trip odometer switch push button is inserted through the clearance hole in the mask.
2. Working around the perimeter of the cluster, press the hood and mask over the face of the cluster housing
until each of the eight integral latch features is fully engaged in the receptacles of the housing.
3. Reinstall the cluster lens (5) onto the face of the cluster hood and mask unit. Refer to step CLUSTER
LENS.
4. Reinstall the instrument cluster onto the instrument panel. See INSTALLATION.
INSTALLATION
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
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Fig. 9: Removing/Installing Screws That Secure Instrument Cluster To Instrument Panel Base Trim
1. Position the instrument cluster (1) close enough to the instrument panel to reconnect the instrument panel
wire harness connectors to the connector receptacles on the back of the cluster housing.
2. Position the instrument cluster mounting tabs to the mounting holes in the instrument panel base trim (2).
3. Install and tighten the four screws (3) that secure the mounting tabs of the instrument cluster. Tighten the
screws to 2 N.m (17 in. lbs.).
4. Reinstall the cluster bezel onto the instrument panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
NOTE: Certain indicators in this instrument cluster are automatically configured. This
feature allows those indicators to be activated or deactivated for compatibility
with certain optional equipment. If a problem is noted that involves improper
illumination of an indicator, disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
After about five minutes, reconnect the battery negative cable and turn the
ignition switch to the ON position. The instrument cluster should automatically
relearn the equipment in the vehicle and properly configure the configurable
indicators accordingly.
SPECIFICATIONS
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
DESCRIPTION N-m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Instrument Cluster 2 - 17
Mounting Screws
Instrument Panel Switch 2 - 17
Pod Mounting Screws
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ABS INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
ABS INDICATOR
Fig. 10: ABS Indicator

An Antilock Brake System (ABS) indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. This indicator is
located near the bottom of the speedometer dial face of the cluster overlay, just left of center. Illumination of
this indicator may also be accompanied by the display of certain textual messages in the cluster odometer
display.
The ABS indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol icon for
Failure of Anti-lock Braking System in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer
layer of the overlay prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. An amber Light
Emitting Diode (LED) behind the cutout in the opaque layer of the overlay causes the indicator to appear in
amber through the translucent outer layer of the overlay when it is illuminated from behind by the LED, which
is soldered onto the instrument cluster electronic circuit board.
The ABS indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
ABS INDICATOR
The ABS indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the ABS system, or a circuit or component
of the system is ineffective. This indicator is controlled by a transistor on the instrument cluster circuit board
based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received by the cluster from the Controller Antilock
Brake (CAB) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.
The ABS indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic circuit,
and that logic will only allow this indicator to operate when the instrument cluster receives a battery current
input on the fused ignition switch output (run-start) circuit. Therefore, the LED will always be OFF when the
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ignition switch is in any position except ON or START. The LED only illuminates when it is provided a path to
ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the ABS indicator for the
following reasons:
 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the ABS indicator is illuminated
for about three seconds as a bulb test. The entire bulb test is a function of the CAB.
 ABS Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic ABS indicator lamp-
ON message from the CAB, the ABS indicator will be illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated
until the cluster receives a lamp-OFF message from the CAB, or until the ignition switch is turned to the
OFF position, whichever occurs first.
 Communication Error - If the cluster receives no lamp-ON or lamp-OFF messages from the CAB for
five consecutive message cycles, the ABS indicator is illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated
until the cluster receives a valid message from the CAB, or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF
position, whichever occurs first.
 Actuator Test - Each time the instrument cluster is put through the actuator test and the Totally
Integrated Power Module (TIPM) is configured for the ABS option, the ABS indicator will be turned ON,
then OFF again during the bulb check portion of the test to confirm the functionality of the LED and the
cluster control circuitry.
 ABS Diagnostic Test - The ABS indicator is blinked ON and OFF by lamp-ON and lamp-OFF messages
from the CAB during the performance of the ABS diagnostic tests.
The CAB continually monitors the ABS circuits and sensors to decide whether the system is in good operating
condition. The CAB then sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the Electro Mechanical
Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN). If the CAB sends a lamp-ON
message after the bulb test, it indicates that the CAB has detected a system malfunction or that the ABS system
has become ineffective. The CAB will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for any malfunction it detects.
Each time the ABS indicator fails to light due to an open or short in the cluster ABS indicator circuit, the cluster
sends a message notifying the CAB of the condition, then the instrument cluster and the CAB will each store a
DTC and the cluster will flash the brake indicator ON and OFF as a backup to notify the vehicle operator.
For proper diagnosis of the antilock brake system, the CAB, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to ABS indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the appropriate
AIRBAG INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
AIRBAG INDICATOR
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Fig. 11: Identifying Airbag Indicator

An airbag indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. However, the instrument cluster can be
programmed to disable this indicator on vehicles that are not equipped with the airbag system, which is not
available in some markets. This indicator is located near the bottom of the speedometer dial face of the cluster
overlay, just left of center.
The airbag indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol icon for
Airbag in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the overlay prevents the
indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. A red Light Emitting Diode (LED) behind the
cutout in the opaque layer of the overlay causes the indicator to appear in red through the translucent outer layer
of the overlay when it is illuminated from behind by the LED, which is soldered onto the instrument cluster
electronic circuit board.
The airbag indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
AIRBAG INDICATOR
The airbag indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the airbag system, or a circuit or
component of the system is ineffective. The airbag indicator is controlled by a transistor on the instrument
cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received by the cluster from the
Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.
The airbag indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic
circuit, and that logic will only allow this indicator to operate when the instrument cluster receives a battery
current input on the fused ignition switch output (run-start) circuit. Therefore, the LED will always be OFF
when the ignition switch is in any position except ON or START. The LED only illuminates when it is provided
a path to ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the airbag indicator for
the following reasons:
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 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the airbag indicator is illuminated
for about six to eight seconds. The entire bulb test is a function of the ORC.
 Airbag Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic airbag indicator
lamp-ON message from the ORC, the airbag indicator will be illuminated. The indicator remains
illuminated for about 12 seconds or until the cluster receives a lamp-OFF message from the ORC,
whichever is longer. This indicator will also be extinguished when the ignition switch is turned to the
OFF position.
 Communication Error - If the cluster receives no lamp-ON or lamp-OFF messages from the ORC for 10
consecutive message cycles, the airbag indicator is illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until
the cluster receives a single lamp-OFF message from the ORC.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the airbag indicator will be turned
ON, then OFF again during the bulb check portion of the test to confirm the functionality of the LED and
the cluster control circuitry. The actuator test illumination of the airbag indicator is a function of the
instrument cluster.
The ORC continually monitors the airbag system circuits and sensors to decide whether the system is in good
operating condition. The ORC then sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the Electro Mechanical
Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN). If the ORC sends a lamp-ON
message after the bulb test, it indicates that the ORC has detected a system malfunction or that the airbags and
seat belt tensioners may not deploy when required, or may deploy when not required. The ORC will store a
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for any malfunction it detects. Each time the airbag indicator fails to illuminate
due to an open or short in the cluster airbag indicator circuit, the cluster sends a message notifying the ORC of
the condition, then the instrument cluster and the ORC will each store a DTC.
For proper diagnosis of the airbag system, the ORC, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to airbag indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the appropriate
AJAR INDICATORS
DESCRIPTION
AJAR INDICATORS
Door and liftgate ajar indicators are standard equipment on all instrument clusters. The ajar indications appear
within the fixed segment odometer Vacuum-Fluorescent Display (VFD) unit. However, on vehicles equipped
with an optional Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC), the ajar indications in the odometer VFD are
electronically suppressed so as not to duplicate indications that are provided by the EVIC. The odometer VFD
ajar indicators are textual messages that appear in place of the odometer/trip odometer information.
The odometer VFD unit is soldered onto the cluster electronic circuit board, and is visible through a window
with a smoked clear lens located at the base of the cluster overlay tachometer dial face. The dark lens over the
VFD prevents it from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. The ajar indicator textual messages appear
in the same blue-green color and at the same lighting level as the other information displayed in the odometer
VFD when it is illuminated by the instrument cluster electronic circuit board.
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The ajar indicators are serviced as a unit with the odometer VFD unit in the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
AJAR INDICATORS
The ajar indicators give an indication to the vehicle operator that one or more of the passenger compartment
doors or the liftgate may be open or not completely latched. These indicators are controlled by the instrument
cluster logic circuit based upon cluster programming and electronic ajar switch status messages received by
the cluster from the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data
bus.
The ajar indicator function of the odometer Vacuum-Fluorescent Display (VFD) unit is completely controlled
by the instrument cluster logic circuit, and that logic will only allow this indicator to operate when the
instrument cluster receives a battery current input on the fused B(+) circuit. Therefore, the VFD ajar indications
can occur regardless of the ignition switch position. The instrument cluster will turn ON the ajar indicator for
the following reasons:
 Ajar Switch Message Input - Each time the cluster receives a door or liftgate ajar switch status message
indicating that a door, the liftgate or any combination of these is open or not completely latched with the
ignition switch in any position, the appropriate ajar textual message will be illuminated. If the cluster
detects a vehicle speed input greater than zero (kilometers or miles-per-hour) while the ignition switch is
in the ON or START positions, the ajar indication will be accompanied by a single chime tone. When the
ignition switch is in any position except ON or START, any and all ajar indications will time out after
about five minutes.
The TIPM continually monitors the door and liftgate ajar switches to determine the status of the doors and
liftgate. The TIPM then sends the proper ajar switch status messages to the EMIC. The door and liftgate ajar
switches and their circuits may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and methods. Refer to the
appropriate wiring information.
BRAKE/PARK BRAKE INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
BRAKE INDICATOR
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Fig. 12: Identifying Brake/Park Brake Indicator

A brake indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. This indicator is located near the bottom of
the speedometer dial face of the cluster overlay, to the right of center.
The brake indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The
word BRAKE is cutout for vehicles manufactured for sale in the U.S. market, or the International Control and
Display Symbol icon for Brake Failure is cutout for vehicles manufactured for all other markets. The dark
outer layer of the overlay prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. A red
Light Emitting Diode (LED) behind the cutout in the opaque layer of the overlay causes the indicator to appear
in red through the translucent outer layer of the overlay when it is illuminated from behind by the LED, which
The brake indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
BRAKE INDICATOR
The brake indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the parking brake is applied, when there
are certain brake hydraulic system malfunctions as indicated by a low brake hydraulic fluid level condition, or
when the brake fluid level switch is disconnected. The brake indicator can also give an indication when certain
faults are detected in the Antilock Brake System (ABS). This indicator is controlled by a transistor on the
instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming, electronic messages received by the cluster
from the Controller Antilock Brake (CAB) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus, and a hard wired
input from the park brake switch.
The brake indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic circuit,
ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the brake indicator for the
following reasons:
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 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the brake indicator is illuminated
by the instrument cluster for about three seconds as a bulb test.
 Brake Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic brake indicator
lamp-ON message from the CAB, the brake indicator will be illuminated. The CAB may also send lamp-
ON messages as feedback during ABS diagnostic procedures. The indicator remains illuminated until the
cluster receives a lamp-OFF message from the CAB, or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF
position, whichever occurs first.
 Park Brake Switch Input - Each time the cluster detects ground on the park brake switch sense circuit
(park brake switch closed = park brake applied or not fully released) while the ignition switch is in the
ON position, the brake indicator flashes ON and OFF. The indicator continues to flash until the park
brake switch sense input to the cluster is an open circuit (park brake switch open = park brake fully
released), or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first.
 Antilock Brake System (ABS) Indicator Backup - If the instrument cluster detects a fault in the ABS
indicator circuit it will send a message indicating the fault to the Controller Antilock Brake (CAB), then
flash the brake indicator ON and OFF. The cluster will continue to flash the brake indicator until the ABS
indicator circuit fault is resolved, or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever
occurs first.
 Actuator Test - Each time the instrument cluster is put through the actuator test, the brake indicator will
be turned ON, then OFF again during the bulb check portion of the test to confirm the functionality of the
LED and the cluster control circuitry.
The park brake switch on the park brake lever mechanism provides a hard wired ground input to the instrument
cluster circuitry through the park brake switch sense circuit whenever the park brake is applied or not fully
released. The Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) monitors the brake fluid level switch on the brake
master cylinder reservoir, then sends the appropriate electronic messages to the CAB. The CAB continually
monitors the ABS system circuits and sensors to decide whether the system is in good operating condition. The
CAB then sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster
(EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN). If the CAB sends a lamp-ON message after the bulb
test, it indicates that the CAB has detected a brake hydraulic system malfunction or that the ABS system has
become ineffective. The CAB will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for any malfunction it detects.
The hard wired park brake switch input to the EMIC may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and
procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. For proper diagnosis of the brake fluid level switch, the
ABS, the CAB, the EMIC, the TIPM, the CAN data bus or the electronic communication related to brake
indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
BRAKE INDICATOR
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The hard wired park brake switch input to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) may be diagnosed
using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring
information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire harness
routing and retention, connector pin-out information and location views for the various wire harness connectors,
splices and grounds.
However, conventional diagnostic methods may not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the EMIC, the
Controller Antilock Brake (CAB), the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), the Controller Area Network
(CAN) data bus, or the electronic message inputs also used by the EMIC to provide brake indicator operation.
The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the EMIC, the CAB, the TIPM, the CAN data bus
or the electronic communication related to brake indicator operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool.
CHARGING INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
CHARGING INDICATOR
Fig. 13: Charging Indicator

A charging indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. This indicator is located near the bottom
of the speedometer dial face of the cluster overlay, just right of center.
The charging indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol icon for
Battery Charging Condition in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the
overlay prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. A red Light Emitting Diode
(LED) behind the cutout in the opaque layer of the overlay causes the indicator to appear in red through the
translucent outer layer of the overlay when it is illuminated from behind by the LED, which is soldered onto the
instrument cluster electronic circuit board.
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The charging indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
CHARGING INDICATOR
The charging indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the electrical system voltage is too low
or too high. This indicator is controlled by a transistor on the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster
programming and electronic messages received by the cluster from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) over
the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.
The charging indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic
a path to ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the charging indicator
 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the charging indicator is
illuminated by the instrument cluster for about three seconds as a bulb test.
 Voltage Low Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic system voltage message from the
PCM indicating the voltage is low (less than about 11.5 volts is a charge fail condition), the charging
indicator will be illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a message from
the PCM indicating the voltage is normal (greater than about 12.0 volts, but less than 16.0 volts), or until
 Voltage High Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic system voltage message from the
PCM indicating the voltage is high (greater than about 16.0 volts), the charging indicator will be
illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a message from the PCM
indicating the voltage is normal (less than about 15.5 volts, but greater than 11.5 volts), or until the
ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the charging indicator will be
turned ON, then OFF again during the bulb check portion of the test to confirm the functionality of the
The PCM continually monitors the electrical system voltage to control the generator output. The PCM then
sends the proper messages to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab
Compartment Node/CCN). If the instrument cluster turns ON the charging indicator due to a charge fail or
voltage high condition, it may indicate that the charging system requires service.
For proper diagnosis of the charging system, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to charging indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the
CRUISE INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
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CRUISE INDICATOR
Fig. 14: Cruise Indicator

A cruise indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. However, on vehicles not equipped with the
optional speed control system, this indicator is electronically disabled. This indicator is located within the
odometer Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) unit.
The cruise indicator consists of the text CRUISE in the VFD display. The odometer VFD unit is soldered onto
the instrument cluster electronic circuit board, and is visible through a window with a smoked clear lens located
on the lower edge of the tachometer gauge dial face of the cluster overlay. The dark lens over the VFD prevents
it from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. The cruise indicator text appears in a blue-green color
and at the same lighting level as the odometer information when it is illuminated by the instrument cluster
During daylight hours (exterior lamps are OFF) the odometer VFD unit is illuminated at full brightness for clear
visibility. At night (exterior lamps are ON), the VFD lighting level is adjusted with the other cluster
illumination lamps using the panel lamps dimmer function of the interior lighting control sleeve on the left
multi-function switch control stalk. However, a PARADE mode position of the control sleeve allows the VFD
unit to be illuminated at full brightness if the exterior lamps are turned ON during daylight hours.
The cruise indicator is serviced as a unit with the odometer VFD unit in the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
CRUISE INDICATOR
The cruise indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the speed control system is ON, regardless
of whether the speed control is engaged. This indicator is controlled by the instrument cluster circuit board
based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received by the cluster from the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.
The cruise indicator is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic circuit, and that logic will only
allow this indicator to operate when the instrument cluster receives a battery current input on the fused ignition
switch output (run-start) circuit. Therefore, the indicator will always be OFF when the ignition switch is in any
position except ON or START. The indicator only illuminates when it is energized by the instrument cluster
logic circuit. The instrument cluster will turn ON the cruise indicator for the following reasons:
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 Cruise Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic cruise indicator
lamp-ON message from the PCM indicating the speed control system is ON, the cruise indicator is
illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a lamp-OFF message from the
PCM, or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the cruise indicator will be turned
ON, then OFF again during the Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) portion of the test in order to confirm
the functionality of the VFD and the cluster control circuitry.
The PCM continually monitors the speed control switches to determine the appropriate outputs to the speed
control servo. The PCM then sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the Electro Mechanical
Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN).
For proper diagnosis of the speed control system, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to cruise indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the appropriate
ENGINE TEMPERATURE GAUGE
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 15: Engine Temperature Gauge Icon

An engine coolant temperature gauge is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. This gauge is located on
the left side of the instrument cluster, between the fuel gauge and the speedometer. The gauge consists of a
movable gauge needle or pointer controlled by the instrument cluster circuitry and a fixed 90 degree gauge scale
on the cluster overlay that reads bottom-to-top from C (or Cold) to H (or Hot). An International Control and
Display Symbol icon for Engine Coolant Temperature is located on the cluster overlay, adjacent to the hub of
the gauge needle.
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The engine coolant temperature gauge graphics are white, gray and black against a black field except for a
single red graduation at the high end of the gauge scale, making them clearly visible within the instrument
cluster in daylight. When illuminated from behind by the panel lamps dimmer controlled cluster illumination
lighting with the exterior lamps turned ON, the graphics all retain their unilluminated colors and appearance.
The orange gauge needle has internal optical illumination. Gauge illumination is provided by Light Emitting
Diode (LED) units soldered onto the instrument cluster electronic circuit board.
The engine coolant temperature gauge is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
The engine coolant temperature gauge gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the engine coolant
temperature. This gauge is controlled by the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming
and electronic messages received by the cluster from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) over the Controller
Area Network (CAN) data bus.
The engine coolant temperature gauge is driven by an electronic stepper motor unit that receives battery current
on the instrument cluster electronic circuit board through the fused ignition switch output (run-start) circuit
whenever the ignition switch is in the ON or START positions. The cluster is programmed to move the gauge
needle back to the low end of the scale after the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position. The instrument
cluster circuitry controls the gauge needle position and provides the following features:
 Engine Temperature Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic engine temperature
message from the PCM indicating the temperature is between the low end of normal [about 41°C (105°F)
for gasoline engines, or about 28°C (82°F) for diesel engines] and the high end of normal [about 124°C
(255°F) for gasoline engines, or about 124°C (256°F) for diesel engines], the gauge needle is moved to
the actual relative temperature position on the gauge scale.
 Engine Temperature Low Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic engine temperature
message from the PCM indicating the temperature is low [at or below about 40°C (104°F) for gasoline
engines, or about 27°C (81°F) for diesel engines], the gauge needle is held below the graduation on the
far left end of the gauge scale. The gauge needle remains below the low end of the gauge scale until the
cluster receives a message from the PCM indicating that the temperature is above the low end of normal,
or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first.
 Engine Temperature High or Critical Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic engine
temperature message from the PCM indicating the temperature is high [at or above about 127°C (261°F)
for gasoline engines, or about 125°C (257°F) for diesel engines], the gauge needle is moved to the red
graduation at the high end of the gauge scale, the engine temperature indicator is illuminated and a single
chime tone is sounded. The gauge needle remains at the red graduation and the engine temperature
indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a message from the PCM indicating that the
temperature is below about 124°C (255°F), or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position,
whichever occurs first. The chime tone feature will only repeat during the same ignition cycle if the
engine temperature indicator is cycled OFF and then ON again by the appropriate messages from the
PCM.
 Communication Error - If the cluster fails to receive an engine temperature message, it will hold the
gauge needle at the last indication for about five seconds or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF
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position, whichever occurs first. After five seconds, the cluster will move the gauge needle to the low end
of the gauge scale.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the engine coolant temperature
gauge needle will be swept to several calibration points on the gauge scale in a prescribed sequence in
order to confirm the functionality of the gauge and the cluster control circuitry.
The PCM continually monitors the engine coolant temperature sensor to determine the engine operating
temperature. The PCM then sends the proper messages to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC). If
the instrument cluster turns ON the engine temperature indicator due to a high or critical engine coolant
temperature gauge reading, it may indicate that the engine or the engine cooling system requires service.
For proper diagnosis of the engine coolant temperature sensor, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the
electronic communication related to engine coolant temperature gauge operation a diagnostic scan tool is
required. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
ENGINE TEMPERATURE INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 16: Identifying Engine Temperature Indicator

An engine temperature indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. The engine temperature
indicator is located above the engine coolant temperature gauge needle hub on the cluster overlay, to the left of
the speedometer.
The engine temperature indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display
Symbol icon for Engine Coolant Temperature in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark
outer layer of the overlay prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. A red
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The engine temperature indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
The engine temperature indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the engine temperature gauge
reading reflects a condition requiring immediate attention. This indicator is controlled by a transistor on the
instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received by the
cluster from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.
The engine temperature indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument
cluster logic circuit, and that logic will only allow this indicator to operate when the instrument cluster receives
a battery current input on the fused ignition switch output (run-start) circuit. Therefore, the LED will always be
OFF when the ignition switch is in any position except ON or START. The LED only illuminates when it is
provided a path to ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the engine
temperature indicator for the following reasons:
 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the engine temperature indicator is
illuminated for about two seconds as a bulb test. The entire bulb test is a function of the PCM.
 Engine Temperature High or Critical Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic engine
temperature message from the PCM indicating the temperature is high [at or above about 127°C (261°F)
for gasoline engines, or about 128°C (262°F) for diesel engines], the engine temperature indicator will be
illuminated and a single chime tone is sounded. The indicator remains illuminated until the cluster
receives a message from the PCM indicating that the temperature is below about 124°C (255°F), or until
the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first. The chime tone feature will only
repeat during the same ignition cycle if the engine temperature indicator is cycled OFF, then ON again by
the appropriate messages from the PCM.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the engine temperature indicator
will be turned ON, then OFF again during the bulb check portion of the test to confirm the functionality
of the LED and the cluster control circuitry.
The PCM continually monitors the engine coolant temperature sensor to determine the engine operating
temperature. The PCM then sends the proper messages to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC)
(also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN). For further diagnosis of the engine temperature indicator or
the instrument cluster circuitry that controls the LED, see DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING. If the instrument
cluster turns ON the engine temperature indicator due to a high engine temperature gauge reading, it may
indicate that the engine or the engine cooling system requires service.
For proper diagnosis of the engine coolant temperature sensor, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the
electronic communication related to engine temperature indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required.
ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAM/BRAKE ASSIST SYSTEM INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
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ESP/BAS INDICATOR
Fig. 17: Electronic Stability Program/Brake Assist System Indicator

An Electronic Stability Program (ESP)/Brake Assist System (BAS) indicator is standard equipment on all
instrument clusters. This indicator is located near the base of the speedometer needle hub on the cluster overlay,
just right of center.
The ESP/BAS indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the text ESP BAS in the opaque layer of the
instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the overlay prevents the indicator from being clearly visible
when it is not illuminated. An amber Light Emitting Diode (LED) behind the cutout in the opaque layer of the
overlay causes the indicator to appear in amber through the translucent outer layer of the overlay when it is
illuminated from behind by the LED, which is soldered onto the instrument cluster electronic circuit board.
The ESP/BAS indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
ESP/BAS INDICATOR
The ESP/BAS indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the Electronic Stability Program
(ESP)/Brake Assist System (BAS) has been activated. This indicator is controlled by a transistor on the
cluster from the Controller Antilock Brake (CAB) and the All-Wheel Drive Control Module (AWDCM) over
The ESP/BAS indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic
a path to ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the ESP/BAS indicator
 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the ESP/BAS indicator is
illuminated for about four seconds as a bulb test.
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 ESP/BAS Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic ESP/BAS
indicator lamp-ON message from the CAB indicating that the ESP/BAS system has been activated, the
ESP/BAS indicator will be illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a
lamp-OFF message from the CAB, or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever
occurs first.
 ESP Full Off Textual Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic ESP Full OFF indicator
lamp-ON message from the CAB indicating that the ESP/BAS system has been manually disabled, an
ESP Full OFF textual message will appear within the cluster odometer display. The ESP Full OFF
textual message remains displayed until the cluster receives a lamp-OFF message from the CAB, or until
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the ESP/BAS indicator will be
The CAB continually monitors the ESP/BAS circuits and sensors to decide whether the system is in good
operating condition and the proper outputs to the components of the system. The CAB then sends the proper
lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab
For proper diagnosis of the ESP/BAS system, the CAB, the AWDCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the
electronic communication related to the ESP/BAS indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer
to the appropriate diagnostic information.
ETC INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL INDICATOR
Fig. 18: Electronic Throttle Control Indicator

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An Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. This indicator
is located near the bottom of the speedometer dial face of the cluster overlay, just right of center.
The ETC indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol icon for
Electronic Throttle Control in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the
overlay prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. A red Light Emitting Diode
(LED) behind the cutout in the opaque layer of the overlay causes the indicator to appear in red through the
The ETC indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL INDICATOR
The Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the ETC
system, or a circuit or component of the system is ineffective. The ETC indicator is controlled by a transistor on
the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received by the
The ETC indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic circuit,
ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the ETC indicator for the
following reasons:
 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the ETC indicator is illuminated
for about three seconds. The entire bulb test is a function of the instrument cluster.
 ETC Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic ETC indicator lamp-
ON message from the PCM, the ETC indicator will be illuminated. The indicator can be flashed ON and
OFF, or illuminated solid, as dictated by the PCM message. The indicator remains illuminated solid or
continues to flash for about 12 seconds or until the cluster receives a lamp-OFF message from the PCM,
whichever is longer. If the indicator is illuminated solid with the engine running the vehicle will usually
remain drivable. If the indicator is flashing with the engine running the vehicle may require towing. A
flashing indicator means the ETC system requires immediate service. The indicator will be extinguished
when the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the ETC indicator will be turned
the cluster control circuitry. The actuator test illumination of the ETC indicator is a function of the PCM.
The PCM continually monitors the ETC system circuits and sensors to decide whether the system is in good
operating condition. The PCM then sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the Electro Mechanical
Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN). If the PCM sends a lamp-ON
message after the bulb test, it indicates that the PCM has detected an ETC system malfunction or that the ETC
system is ineffective. The PCM will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for any malfunction it detects.
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Each time the ETC indicator fails to illuminate due to an open or short in the cluster ETC indicator circuit, the
cluster sends a message notifying the PCM of the condition, then the EMIC and the PCM will each store a
DTC.
For proper diagnosis of the ETC system, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to ETC indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the appropriate
FRONT FOG LAMP INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 19: Front Fog Lamp Indicator

A front fog lamp indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. However, on vehicles not equipped
with the optional front fog lamps, this indicator is electronically disabled. This indicator is located near the
bottom of the speedometer dial face of the cluster overlay, just left of center.
The front fog lamp indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol
icon for Front Fog Light in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the
overlay prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. A green Light Emitting
Diode (LED) behind the cutout in the opaque layer of the overlay causes the indicator to appear in green
through the translucent outer layer of the overlay when it is illuminated from behind by the LED, which is
soldered onto the instrument cluster electronic circuit board.
The front fog lamp indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
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The front fog lamp indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator whenever the front fog lamps are
illuminated. This indicator is controlled by a transistor on the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster
programming and electronic messages received by the cluster from the Totally Integrated Power Module
(TIPM) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.
The front fog lamp indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster
logic circuit, and that logic will allow this indicator to operate whenever the instrument cluster receives a
battery current input on the fused B(+) circuit. Therefore, the LED can be illuminated regardless of the ignition
switch position. The LED only illuminates when it is provided a path to ground by the instrument cluster
transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the front fog lamp indicator for the following reasons:
 Front Fog Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic front fog
indicator lamp-ON message from the TIPM indicating the front fog lamps are turned ON, the front fog
lamp indicator will be illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a lamp-
OFF message from the TIPM, or until the exterior lamp load shedding (battery saver) timed interval
expires, whichever occurs first.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the front fog lamp indicator will be
The TIPM continually monitors electronic exterior lighting request messages from the Electro Mechanical
Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) to determine the appropriate
outputs to the front fog lamps. The TIPM activates or deactivates the front fog lamps then sends the proper
lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message back to the EMIC.
For proper diagnosis of the front fog lamp system, the TIPM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to front fog lamp indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the
FUEL GAUGE
DESCRIPTION
FUEL GAUGE
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Fig. 20: Fuel Gauge Display Symbol

A fuel gauge is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. This gauge is located on the left side of the
instrument cluster, left of the speedometer and the engine temperature gauge. The gauge consists of a movable
gauge needle or pointer controlled by the instrument cluster circuitry and a fixed 90 degree gauge scale on the
cluster overlay that reads bottom-to-top from E (or Empty) to F (or Full). An International Control and Display
Symbol icon for Fuel is located on the cluster overlay, adjacent to the hub of the gauge needle. An arrowhead
pointed to the left side of the vehicle is imprinted on the cluster overlay next to the Fuel icon on the gauge to
provide the driver with a reminder as to the location of the fuel filler access.
The fuel gauge graphics are white, gray and black against a black field except for a single red graduation at the
low end of the gauge scale, making them clearly visible within the instrument cluster in daylight. When
illuminated from behind by the panel lamps dimmer controlled cluster illumination lighting with the exterior
lamps turned ON, the graphics all retain their unilluminated colors and appearance. The orange gauge needle
has internal optical illumination. Gauge illumination is provided by Light Emitting Diode (LED) units soldered
onto the instrument cluster electronic circuit board.
The fuel gauge is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
FUEL GAUGE
The fuel gauge gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the level of fuel in the fuel tank. This gauge is
controlled by the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming and electronic fuel level
messages received by the cluster from the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) over the Controller Area
Network (CAN) data bus.
The fuel gauge is driven by an electronic stepper motor unit that receives battery current on the instrument
cluster electronic circuit board through the fused ignition switch output (run-start) circuit whenever the ignition
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switch is in the ON or START positions. The cluster is programmed to move the gauge needle back to the low
end of the scale after the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position. The instrument cluster circuitry controls
the gauge needle position and provides the following features:
 Fuel Level Message - The TIPM provides a constant current source to the fuel level sending unit and
monitors a return input on a fuel level sense circuit. The resistance through the fuel level sending unit
increases as the fuel level rises and decreases as the fuel level falls causing changes in the fuel level sense
input voltage. The TIPM then sends the appropriate electronic fuel level messages to the cluster. The
cluster programming applies an algorithm to calculate the proper fuel gauge needle position based upon
the fuel level message input, then moves the gauge needle to the proper relative position on the gauge
scale. This algorithm is used to dampen gauge needle movement against the negative effect that fuel
sloshing within the fuel tank can have on accurate inputs from the fuel tank sending unit to the TIPM.
 Less Than 11 Percent Tank Full Message - Each time the fuel level message to the cluster indicates the
fuel tank is about 11 percent full or less for 10 consecutive seconds and the vehicle speed is zero, or for
60 consecutive seconds and the vehicle speed is greater than zero, the gauge needle is moved to about the
one-sixteenth graduation on the gauge scale, the low fuel indicator is illuminated, and a single chime tone
is sounded. The low fuel indicator remains illuminated until the fuel level message indicates that the fuel
tank is greater than about 14 percent full for 10 consecutive seconds and the vehicle speed is zero, or for
60 consecutive seconds and the vehicle speed is greater than zero, or until the ignition switch is turned to
the OFF position, whichever occurs first. The chime tone feature will only repeat during the same ignition
cycle if the low fuel indicator is cycled OFF and then ON again by the appropriate messages from the
TIPM.
 Less Than Empty Stop Message - Each time the cluster receives a fuel level message indicating the fuel
level in the fuel tank is less than the E (or Empty) gauge needle stop position for five consecutive
seconds, the gauge needle is moved to the low end of the gauge scale and the low fuel indicator is
illuminated immediately. This input would indicate that the fuel level sense input to the TIPM is a short
circuit.
 More Than Full Stop Message - Each time the cluster receives a fuel level message indicating the fuel
level in the fuel tank is more than the F (or Full) gauge needle stop position for five consecutive seconds,
the gauge needle is moved to the low end of the gauge scale and the low fuel indicator is illuminated
immediately. This input would indicate that the fuel level sense input to the TIPM is an open circuit.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the fuel gauge needle will be swept
to several calibration points on the gauge scale in a prescribed sequence in order to confirm the
functionality of the gauge and the cluster control circuitry.
The TIPM continually monitors the fuel tank sending unit to determine the level of fuel in the fuel tank. The
TIPM then sends the proper electronic fuel level message to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC)
(also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) and other electronic modules in the vehicle over the
Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus. The TIPM will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for any fault
detected in the fuel level sense circuit.
For proper diagnosis of the fuel tank sending unit, the TIPM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to fuel gauge operation or fuel level data processing a diagnostic scan tool is required.
GAS CAP INDICATOR
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DESCRIPTION
GAS CAP INDICATOR
A gas cap indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. However, on vehicles equipped with the
optional diesel engine, as well as those manufactured for the Chinese market, this indicator is electronically
disabled. The gas cap indication appears within the odometer Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) unit. The gas
cap indicator consists of a textual gas cap message which appears in place of the odometer information in the
odometer display.
The odometer VFD is soldered onto the cluster electronic circuit board, and is visible through a window with a
smoked clear lens located on the lower edge of the tachometer gauge dial face of the cluster overlay. The dark
lens over the VFD prevents it from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. The gas cap textual message
appears in the same blue-green color and at the same lighting level as the odometer information when it is
illuminated by the instrument cluster electronic circuit board.
The gas cap indicator is serviced as a unit with the VFD in the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
GAS CAP INDICATOR
The gas cap indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when there is a gross leak detected in the on-
board fuel vapor recovery system. This indicator is controlled by the instrument cluster logic circuit based upon
cluster programming and electronic messages received over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus from
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The gas cap indicator function of the odometer Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) unit is completely
controlled by the instrument cluster logic circuit, and that logic will only allow this indicator to operate when
the instrument cluster receives a battery current input on the fused ignition switch output (run-start) circuit.
Therefore, the odometer VFD gas cap indication will always be OFF when the ignition switch is in any position
except ON or START. The instrument cluster will turn ON the gas cap indicator for the following reasons:
 Gas Cap Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic gas cap indicator
lamp-ON message from the PCM indicating there is a gross leak in the vapor recovery system, the gas
cap indicator will be illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a lamp-OFF
message from the PCM, or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first.
The PCM continually monitors the on board vapor recovery system to determine whether there are air leaks in
the system. The PCM then sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the Electro Mechanical
Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN). If the EMIC turns ON the gas
cap indicator due to a monitored gross leak in the vapor recovery system, it may indicate that the gas cap has
been removed or is improperly installed.
For proper diagnosis of the on board vapor recovery system, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the
electronic communication related to gas cap indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the
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GEAR SELECTOR INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 21: Gear Selector Indicator

An electronic automatic transmission gear selector indicator is standard factory-installed equipment on this
vehicle. However, on vehicles not equipped with an optional automatic transmission, this indicator is
electronically disabled. The gear selector indicator information is displayed in the upper portion of the odometer
Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) unit. This VFD unit is soldered onto the cluster electronic circuit board,
and is visible through a window with a smoked clear lens located on the lower edge of the tachometer dial face
of the cluster overlay. The dark lens over the VFD unit prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it
is not illuminated.
The gear selector indicator displays the following characters from left to right: P , R , N , D and a fifth,
reconfigurable character. The reconfigurable character can be any number 1 through 6 . Each character appears
in a blue-green color and at the same lighting level as the odometer information. Respectively, these characters
represent the PARK, REVERSE, NEUTRAL, DRIVE and each of the forward drive gear positions of the
transmission gear selector lever on the floor panel transmission tunnel. The indicator also illuminates a box
around the character that represents the currently selected lever position.
During daylight hours (exterior lamps are OFF) the VFD unit is illuminated at full brightness for clear visibility.
At night (exterior lamps are ON), the VFD unit lighting level is adjusted with the other cluster general
unit to be illuminated at full brightness if the exterior lamps are turned ON during daylight hours.
The gear selector indicator is serviced as a unit with the VFD unit in the instrument cluster.
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OPERATION
The electronic gear selector indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the transmission gear that
has been selected with the automatic transmission gear selector lever. This indicator is controlled by the
instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received from the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.
The gear selector indicator information is displayed by the odometer Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) unit
soldered onto the instrument cluster electronic circuit board, and the VFD will not display the gear selector
indicator information after the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position. Each time the cluster is
disconnected from battery current for more than about five minutes, it must configure itself for the automatic
transmission type that is in the vehicle once it is reconnected to battery current. The instrument cluster circuitry
operates the gear selector indicator to provide the following features:
 Selected Gear Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic selected gear message from the
PCM, a box will be illuminated around the appropriate character in the gear selector indicator. The box
will remain illuminated until the cluster receives a different selected gear message, or until the ignition
 Communication Error - If the cluster fails to receive a selected gear message from the PCM within
three seconds, the instrument cluster circuitry will display all gear selector positions boxed (selected) until
a valid selected gear message is received or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position,
whichever occurs first.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the odometer VFD unit will display
all of its characters at once to confirm the functionality of the VFD unit and the cluster control circuitry.
The PCM continually monitors a hard wired multiplex input from the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS), then
sends the proper message to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab
For proper diagnosis of the TRS, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic communication
related to gear selector indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic
information.
HIGH BEAM INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
HIGH BEAM INDICATOR
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Fig. 22: High Beam Indicator

A high beam indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. This indicator is located near the base
of the speedometer needle hub on the cluster overlay, just left of center.
The high beam indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol icon
for High Beam in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the overlay
prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. A blue Light Emitting Diode (LED)
behind the cutout in the opaque layer of the overlay causes the indicator to appear in blue through the
The high beam indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
HIGH BEAM INDICATOR
The high beam indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator whenever the headlamp high beams are
The high beam indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic
circuit, and that logic will allow this indicator to operate whenever the instrument cluster receives a battery
current input on the fused B(+) circuit. Therefore, the LED can be illuminated regardless of the ignition switch
position. The LED only illuminates when it is provided a path to ground by the instrument cluster transistor.
The instrument cluster will turn ON the high beam indicator for the following reasons:
 High Beam Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic high beam
indicator lamp-ON message from the TIPM indicating the high beam lamps are turned ON, the high
beam indicator will be illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a lamp-
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the high beam indicator will be
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outputs to the headlamps. The TIPM activates or deactivates the headlamp high beams then sends the proper
lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message back to the EMIC.
For proper diagnosis of the headlamp system, the TIPM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to high beam indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the
INSTRUMENT PANEL SWITCH POD
DESCRIPTION

The instrument panel switch pod (1) is located just below the heater and air conditioner controls in the center
stack area of the instrument panel. This switch is available in multiple configurations, which varies from two
single push button switches to as many as five push button switches and an indicator lamp, depending upon the
optional equipment in the vehicle. The pod may include the following switches or indicators:
 Alternating Current (AC) Power Inverter Outlet Switch (5)

 Driver and Passenger Side Heated Seat Switches (2)
 Hazard Warning Switch (3)
 Headlamp Leveling Switch (Not Shown)
 Park Assist Switch (Not Shown)
 Passenger Airbag On/Off Indicator (4)
 Electronic Stability Program (ESP) Switch (6)
The switch housing and the push buttons are constructed of molded plastic. Each push button has a smooth
finish and is clearly identified with the appropriate text and International Control and Display Symbol icons.
Several of the push buttons feature Light Emitting Diode (LED) units to give the vehicle operator an indication
when the function of that switch is currently active. Only the hazard warning switch push button latches, while
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the remaining switches feature momentary operation.
Four screws secure the switch to the back of the instrument panel center bezel through integral mounting tabs
that are molded into each corner of the switch housing. The back of the switch housing has an integral
connector receptacle containing terminal pins that connect the switch to the vehicle electrical system through a
dedicated take out and connector of the instrument panel wire harness.
Panel lamps dimmer controlled illumination lamps integral to the circuit board within the switch provide back
lighting for visibility at night, but these lamps are not serviceable. The individual switches in the instrument
panel switch pod cannot be repaired and are not serviced separately. If any component within the switch pod is
ineffective or damaged, the entire switch pod unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
For information covering details of operation for the individual switches or indicator contained within the
instrument panel switch pod, refer to the specific service information covering the system to which that switch
or indicator belongs.
REMOVAL
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Fig. 24: Identifying Center Bezel, Instrument Panel Switch Pod & Screws

2. Remove the center bezel (1) from the instrument panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the back of the instrument panel switch pod (2).
4. Remove the four screws (3) that secure the switch pod to the back of the center bezel.
5. Remove the switch pod from the center bezel.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: There are several different instrument panel switch pods available, depending
upon the optional equipment content of the vehicle. Be certain that a
replacement switch pod matches the optional equipment of the vehicle into
which it is being installed.
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Fig. 25: Identifying Center Bezel, Instrument Panel Switch Pod & Screws
1. Position the instrument panel switch pod (2) to the back of the center bezel (1).
2. Install and tighten the four screws (3) that secure the switch pod to the center bezel. Tighten the screws to
2 N.m (17 in. lbs.).
3. Reconnect the wire harness connector to the back of the switch pod.
4. Reinstall the center bezel onto the instrument panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
LOW FUEL INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
LOW FUEL INDICATOR
Fig. 26: Identifying Low Fuel Indicator

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A low fuel indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. The low fuel indicator is located above
the fuel gauge needle hub on the cluster overlay, to the left of the speedometer.
The low fuel indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol icon for
Fuel in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the overlay prevents the
indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. An amber Light Emitting Diode (LED) behind
the cutout in the opaque layer of the overlay causes the indicator to appear in amber through the translucent
outer layer of the overlay when it is illuminated from behind by the LED, which is soldered onto the instrument
cluster electronic circuit board.
The low fuel indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
LOW FUEL INDICATOR
The low fuel indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the level of fuel in the fuel tank becomes
low. This indicator is controlled by a transistor on the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster
programming and electronic fuel level messages received by the cluster from the Totally Integrated Power
Module (TIPM) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.
The low fuel indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic
a path to ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the low fuel indicator
 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the low fuel indicator is
illuminated for about three seconds as a bulb test.
 Less Than 11 Percent Tank Full Message - The TIPM provides a constant current source to the fuel
level sending unit and monitors a return input on a fuel level sense circuit. The resistance through the fuel
level sending unit increases as the fuel level rises and decreases as the fuel level falls causing changes in
the fuel level sense input voltage. The TIPM then sends the appropriate electronic fuel level messages to
the cluster. Each time the fuel level messages to the cluster indicate the fuel tank is about 11 percent full
or less for 10 consecutive seconds and the vehicle speed is zero, or for 60 consecutive seconds and the
vehicle speed is greater than zero, the gauge needle is moved to the appropriate position on the gauge
scale, the low fuel indicator is illuminated, and a single chime tone is sounded. The low fuel indicator
remains illuminated until the fuel level messages indicate that the fuel tank is greater than about 14
percent full for 10 consecutive seconds and the vehicle speed is zero, or for 60 consecutive seconds and
the vehicle speed is greater than zero, or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever
occurs first. The chime tone feature will only repeat during the same ignition cycle if the low fuel
indicator is cycled OFF and then ON again by the appropriate messages from the TIPM.
 Less Than Empty Stop Message - Each time the cluster receives a fuel level message indicating the fuel
level in the fuel tank is less than the E (or Empty) gauge needle stop position for five consecutive
seconds, the gauge needle is moved to the low end of the gauge scale and the low fuel indicator is
illuminated immediately. This input would indicate that the fuel level sense input to the TIPM is a short
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circuit.
 More Than Full Stop Message - Each time the cluster receives a fuel level message indicating the fuel
level in the fuel tank is more than the F (or Full) gauge needle stop position for five consecutive seconds,
the gauge needle is moved to the low end of the gauge scale and the low fuel indicator is illuminated
immediately. This input would indicate that the fuel level sense input to the TIPM is an open circuit.
The TIPM continually monitors the fuel tank sending unit to determine the level of fuel in the fuel tank. The
TIPM then sends the proper electronic fuel level message to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC)
(also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) and other electronic modules in the vehicle over the
Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus. The TIPM will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for any fault
detected in the fuel level sense circuit.
For proper diagnosis of the fuel tank sending unit, the TIPM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to low fuel indicator operation or fuel level data processing a diagnostic scan tool is
LOW OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 27: Low Oil Pressure Indicator

A low oil pressure indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. This indicator is located near the
bottom of the speedometer dial face of the cluster overlay, just left of center.
The low oil pressure indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol
icon for Engine Oil in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the overlay
prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. A red Light Emitting Diode (LED)
behind the cutout in the opaque layer of the overlay causes the indicator to appear in red through the translucent
outer layer of the overlay when it is illuminated from behind by the LED, which is soldered onto the instrument
cluster electronic circuit board.
The low oil pressure indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
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The low oil pressure indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the engine oil pressure reading
reflects a condition requiring immediate attention. This indicator is controlled by a transistor on the instrument
cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received by the cluster from the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.
The low oil pressure indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster
logic circuit, and that logic will only allow this indicator to operate when the instrument cluster receives a
battery current input on the fused ignition switch output (run-start) circuit. Therefore, the LED will always be
OFF when the ignition switch is in any position except ON or START. The LED only illuminates when it is
provided a path to ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the low oil
pressure indicator for the following reasons:
 Engine Oil Pressure Low Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic engine oil pressure
message from the PCM indicating the pressure is about 6.9 kPa (1 psi) or lower, the low oil pressure
indicator will be illuminated. The indicator can be flashed ON and OFF, or illuminated solid, as dictated
by the PCM message. The indicator remains illuminated solid or flashing until the cluster receives a
message from the PCM indicating that the pressure is above about 6.9 kPa (1 psi), or until the ignition
switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first. The cluster will only turn the indicator ON in
response to low engine oil pressure if the engine speed is greater than zero.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the low oil pressure indicator will
be turned ON, then OFF again during the bulb check portion of the test to confirm the functionality of the
The PCM continually monitors the engine oil pressure sensor to determine the engine oil pressure. The PCM
then sends the proper messages to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab
Compartment Node/CCN). If the EMIC turns ON the indicator after the bulb test, it may indicate that the engine
or the engine oiling system requires service.
For proper diagnosis of the engine oil pressure sensor, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to low oil pressure indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL)
DESCRIPTION
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR
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Fig. 28: Malfunction Indicator Lamp

A Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. This indicator is located
within the odometer Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) unit.
The MIL indicator consists of the International Control and Display Symbol icon for Engine in the VFD
display. The odometer VFD unit is soldered onto the cluster electronic circuit board, and is visible through a
window with a smoked clear lens located on the lower edge of the tachometer dial face of the cluster overlay.
The dark lens over the VFD unit prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. The
MIL icon appears in an amber color when it is illuminated by the cluster electronic circuit board, and the MIL
as well as all of the odometer VFD information is illuminated at full (daytime) brightness and cannot be
dimmed until the MIL is extinguished.
The MIL is serviced as a unit with the VFD unit in the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM) has recorded a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for an On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII)
emissions-related circuit or component malfunction. The MIL is controlled by the instrument cluster circuit
board based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received by the cluster from the PCM over the
Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.
The MIL is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic circuit, and that logic will only allow this
indicator to operate when the instrument cluster receives a battery current input on the fused ignition switch
output (run-start) circuit. Therefore, the indicator will always be OFF when the ignition switch is in any position
except ON or START. The indicator only illuminates when it is energized by the instrument cluster logic
circuit. The instrument cluster will turn ON the MIL for the following reasons:
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 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the indicator is illuminated for
about 15 seconds as a bulb test. The entire bulb test is a function of the PCM.
 MIL Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic MIL lamp-ON message from the
PCM, the indicator will be illuminated. The indicator can be flashed ON and OFF, or illuminated solid, as
dictated by the PCM message. For some DTCs, if a problem does not recur, the PCM will send a lamp-
OFF message automatically. Other DTCs may require that a fault be repaired and the PCM be reset
before a lamp-OFF message will be sent. For more information on the PCM, and the DTC set and reset
parameters, refer to EMISSIONS CONTROL .
 Communication Error - If the cluster receives no lamp-ON or lamp-OFF messages from the PCM for
10 consecutive message cycles, the MIL is illuminated by the instrument cluster to indicate a loss of bus
communication. The indicator remains controlled and illuminated by the cluster until a valid message is
received from the PCM.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the MIL indicator will be turned
ON, then OFF again during the odometer VFD portion of the test in order to confirm the functionality of
the VFD and the cluster control circuitry.
The PCM continually monitors the fuel and emissions system circuits and sensors to decide whether the system
is in good operating condition. The PCM then sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the Electro
Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN). If the EMIC turns
ON the MIL after the bulb test, it may indicate that a malfunction has occurred and that the fuel and emissions
systems require service.
For proper diagnosis of the fuel and emissions systems, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to MIL operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic
information.
ODOMETER
DESCRIPTION
ODOMETER/TRIP ODOMETER
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Fig. 29: Odometer/Trip Odometer

An odometer and trip odometer are standard factory-installed equipment in all instrument clusters. The
odometer and trip odometer are displayed in a common electronic, blue-green Vacuum-Fluorescent Display
(VFD) unit. This VFD unit is soldered onto the cluster electronic circuit board, and is visible through a window
with a smoked clear lens located on the lower edge of the tachometer in the lower right area of the cluster
overlay. The dark lens over the VFD prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated.
The odometer and trip odometer information are not displayed simultaneously. The trip odometer reset switch
on the instrument cluster circuit board toggles the display between odometer and trip odometer modes by
depressing the odometer/trip odometer switch button that extends through the lower edge of the cluster lens, just
left of the minor gauge set. When the trip odometer information is displayed, the text TRIP A or TRIP B is
also illuminated in the lower right corner of the odometer/trip odometer VFD in a blue-green color and at the
same lighting level as the trip odometer information.
The odometer and trip odometer information are stored in the instrument cluster memory. This information can
be increased when the proper inputs are provided to the instrument cluster, but the information cannot be
decreased. The odometer can display values up to 999,999 kilometers (999,999 miles). The odometer latches at
these values, and will not roll over to zero. The trip odometer can display values up to 999.9 kilometers (999.9
miles) before it rolls over to zero.
The odometer display does not show leading zeroes, does not have a decimal point and will not show values
less than a full unit (kilometer or mile). The unit of measure (km or miles ) for the odometer display is not
shown in the VFD. The unit of measure for the instrument cluster odometer/trip odometer is selected at the time
that it is manufactured, and cannot be changed. The odometer has a RENTAL CAR mode, which will illuminate
the odometer information in the VFD whenever the driver side front door is opened with the ignition switch in
the OFF or ACCESSORY positions.
During daylight hours (exterior lamps are OFF) the odometer VFD is illuminated at full brightness for clear
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visibility. At night (exterior lamps are ON), the VFD lighting level is adjusted with the other cluster general
to be illuminated at full brightness if the exterior lamps are turned ON during daylight hours. On vehicles
manufactured for domestic markets, the odometer VFD is also illuminated at full brightness whenever the
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) indicator is illuminated, and cannot be
dimmed until the MIL or TPM indicator is extinguished.
The odometer/trip odometer VFD, the trip odometer switch and the trip odometer push button are serviced as a
unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
ODOMETER/TRIP ODOMETER
The odometer and trip odometer give an indication to the vehicle operator of the distance the vehicle has
traveled. This indicator is controlled by the instrument cluster circuitry based upon cluster programming and
electronic messages received by the cluster from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) over the Controller
The odometer and trip odometer information is displayed by the instrument cluster odometer/trip odometer
Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD). The VFD will display the odometer information whenever the driver side
front door is opened with the ignition switch in the OFF or ACCESSORY positions. The instrument cluster
circuitry controls the VFD and provides the following features:
 Odometer/Trip Odometer Display Toggling - Actuating the trip odometer reset switch button
momentarily with the VFD illuminated will toggle the display between the odometer and trip odometer A
and B information. Each time the VFD is illuminated with the ignition switch in the ON or START
positions, the display will automatically return to the last mode previously selected (odometer or trip
odometer).
 Trip Odometer Reset - When the trip odometer reset switch button is pressed and held for longer than
about two seconds with the ignition switch in the ON or START positions, the trip odometer will be reset
to 0.0 kilometers (miles). The VFD must be displaying the trip odometer information in order for the trip
odometer information to be reset.
 Gas Cap Message Display - On vehicles manufactured with a United States country code, each time the
cluster receives an electronic message from the PCM indicating a monitored leak in the evaporative
emissions system, the cluster replaces the displayed odometer/trip odometer value with the textual
message, gas cap . This message serves as a reminder to the vehicle operator to check that the gas cap is
properly installed and tightened, but could also indicate another source of air leakage in the on-board
evaporative and vapor recovery emissions systems. Unless the leak is corrected, this message will latch
and remain displayed during the current and each subsequent ignition cycle until the trip odometer reset
button is pressed and released momentarily, which will revert the display to the odometer/trip odometer
information that was last displayed for the remainder of that ignition cycle. Once the source of a leak has
been corrected, either momentarily pressing the trip odometer reset button or cycling the ignition switch
will unlatch the message and return the odometer/trip odometer to normal operation.
 Communication Error - If the cluster fails to receive an electronic distance message during normal
operation, it will hold and display the last data received until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF
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position. If the cluster does not receive a distance message within one second after the ignition switch is
turned to the ON position, it will display the last distance value stored in the cluster memory. If the
cluster is unable to display odometer information due to an error internal to the cluster, the VFD will
display error .
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the odometer VFD will display all
of its segments simultaneously during the VFD portion of the test to confirm the functionality of the VFD
and the cluster control circuitry.
The PCM continually monitors the vehicle speed pulse information received from the wheel speed sensors, then
sends the proper messages to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab
For proper diagnosis of the wheel speed sensors, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to odometer/trip odometer operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the
REAR FOG LAMP INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 30: Rear Fog Lamp Indicator

A rear fog lamp indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters for certain markets where rear fog
lamps are available. However, on vehicles not equipped with the optional rear fog lamps, this indicator is
electronically disabled. This indicator is located near the bottom of the speedometer dial face of the cluster
overlay, just right of center.
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The rear fog lamp indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol
icon for Rear Fog Light in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the
overlay prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. An amber Light Emitting
Diode (LED) behind the cutout in the opaque layer of the overlay causes the indicator to appear in amber
The rear fog lamp indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
The rear fog lamp indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator whenever the rear fog lamps are
The rear fog lamp indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster
logic circuit, and that logic will allow this indicator to operate whenever the instrument cluster receives a
battery current input on the fused B(+) circuit. Therefore, the LED can be illuminated regardless of the ignition
switch position. The LED only illuminates when it is provided a path to ground by the instrument cluster
transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the rear fog lamp indicator for the following reasons:
 Rear Fog Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic rear fog
indicator lamp-ON message from the TIPM indicating the rear fog lamps are turned ON, the rear fog
lamp indicator will be illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a lamp-
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the rear fog lamp indicator will be
outputs to the rear fog lamps. The TIPM activates or deactivates the rear fog lamps then sends the proper lamp-
ON or lamp-OFF message back to the EMIC.
For proper diagnosis of the rear fog lamp system, the TIPM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to rear fog lamp indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the
SEATBELT INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
SEATBELT INDICATOR
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Fig. 31: Seatbelt Indicator

A seatbelt indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. This indicator is located near the top of the
cluster overlay, between the fuel gauge and the engine temperature gauge.
The seatbelt indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol icon for
Seat Belt in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the overlay prevents the
indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. A red Light Emitting Diode (LED) behind the
cutout in the opaque layer of the overlay causes the indicator to appear in red through the translucent outer layer
of the overlay when it is illuminated from behind by the LED, which is soldered onto the instrument cluster
The seatbelt indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
SEATBELT INDICATOR
The seatbelt indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the status of the driver side front seat belt.
This indicator is controlled by a transistor on the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster
programming and a hard wired input from the seatbelt switch on the driver side front seat belt retractor through
the seat belt switch sense circuits.
The seatbelt indicator also includes a programmable enhanced seatbelt reminder or BELTMINDER feature that
is enabled when the vehicle is shipped from the factory. This BELTMINDER feature can be disabled and
enabled by the customer using a specific programming event sequence, or by the dealer using a diagnostic scan
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tool.
The seatbelt indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic
a path to ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the seatbelt indicator
 Seatbelt Reminder Function - Each time the cluster receives a battery current input on the fused ignition
switch output (run-start) circuit, the indicator will be illuminated as a seatbelt reminder for about six
seconds, or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first. This reminder
function will occur regardless of the status of the seatbelt switch inputs to the cluster.
 Front Seatbelt Not Buckled - Beltminder Active - Following the seatbelt reminder function, each time
the cluster detects an open circuit on the front seat belt switch sense circuit (seatbelt switch open =
seatbelt unbuckled) with the ignition switch in the START or ON positions, the indicator will be
illuminated. In addition, if the front seat belt remains unbuckled about 4 seconds after the conclusion of
the seatbelt reminder function, the seatbelt indicator will begin to cycle between flashing ON and OFF for
3 seconds, then lighting solid for 2 seconds. The seatbelt indicator will continue to cycle between flashing
and solid illumination for 13 complete cycles, until the seat belt switch sense input to the cluster is a
closed circuit to ground (seatbelt switch closed = seatbelt buckled), or until the ignition switch is turned to
the OFF position, whichever occurs first.
 Front Seatbelt Not Buckled - Beltminder Inactive - Following the seatbelt reminder function, each
time the cluster detects an open circuit on the seat belt switch sense circuit (seatbelt switch open =
seatbelt unbuckled) with the ignition switch in the START or ON positions, the indicator will be
illuminated. The seatbelt indicator remains illuminated until the seat belt indicator input to the cluster is a
closed circuit to ground (seatbelt switch closed = seatbelt buckled), or until the ignition switch is turned to
the OFF position, whichever occurs first.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the seatbelt indicator will be turned
the cluster control circuitry.
The seatbelt switch is connected in series between ground and the seat belt switch sense circuit input to the
Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN). The seatbelt
switch input to the instrument cluster circuitry may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and
procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
ENHANCED SEATBELT REMINDER PROGRAMMING
The seatbelt indicator also includes a programmable enhanced seatbelt reminder or BELTMINDER feature that
is enabled when the vehicle is shipped from the factory. This BELTMINDER feature provides extended and
modified visual seatbelt indicator and audible chime warning responses to an unbuckled driver side front seat
belt. The BELTMINDER feature may be disabled or enabled by the customer using the programming sequence
that follows, or by the dealer using a diagnostic scan tool.
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CUSTOMER PROGRAMMING SEQUENCE
NOTE: The following sequence of events must occur within 60 seconds of the ignition
switch being placed in the ON position in order for the programming to be
completed successfully.
1. With all doors closed and the ignition switch in any position except ON or START, buckle the driver side
front seat belt.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait for the seatbelt indicator reminder function to
conclude (about six seconds).
3. Unbuckle and buckle the driver side front seat belt three or more times, ending with the belt buckled.
4. Turn the ignition switch to any position except ON or START to toggle the BELTMINDER feature from
its current setting (from active to inactive, or from inactive to active). A single chime tone will provide an
audible confirmation that the programming sequence has been successfully completed.
SECURITY INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
SECURITY INDICATOR
Fig. 32: Security Indicator

A security indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. However, on vehicles not equipped with
the optional Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS), this indicator is electronically disabled. This indicator is
located near the base of the speedometer needle hub on the cluster overlay, just left of center.
The security indicator consists of a small round cutout in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The
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dark outer layer of the overlay prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. A red
The security indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
SECURITY INDICATOR
The security indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the Vehicle Theft Security System
(VTSS) is arming or is armed. On vehicles equipped with the Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS), the
security indicator also gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the status of the SKIS. This indicator is
controlled by a transistor on the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming, and electronic
security indicator request messages received by the cluster from the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM)
or the Sentry Key REmote Entry Module (SKREEM) (also known as the Wireless Control Module/WCM) over
The security indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic
current input on the fused B(+) circuit. Therefore, the LED can be illuminated regardless of the ignition switch
Depending upon the programmed condition, the indicator can be illuminated solid, flashed at a slow rate (0.5
Hertz, 12.5 percent duty cycle), or flashed at a fast rate (1 Hertz, 50 percent duty cycle). The instrument cluster
will turn ON the security indicator for the following reasons:
 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the security indicator illuminates
for about two seconds as a bulb test. The entire bulb test is a function of the SKREEM.
 Security Indicator Lamp-On Message - During the 16 second VTSS arming function, the TIPM will
request the cluster flash the security indicator ON and OFF repeatedly at a steady, fast rate to indicate that
the VTSS is in the process of arming. Following successful VTSS arming, the TIPM will request the
cluster flash the security indicator ON and OFF continuously at a slower rate to indicate that the VTSS is
armed. The security indicator continues flashing at the slower rate until the VTSS is disarmed or
triggered. If the VTSS has alarmed and rearmed, the TIPM will request the cluster flash the security
indicator at a steady, slow rate for about 30 seconds after the VTSS is disarmed.
 SKIS Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic SKIS indicator lamp-
ON message from the SKREEM, the security indicator will be illuminated. The indicator can be flashed
ON and OFF, or illuminated solid, as dictated by the SKREEM message. The indicator remains
illuminated solid or continues to flash until the cluster receives a lamp-OFF message from the SKREEM,
or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first. For more information on
the SKIS and the security indicator control parameters, refer to OPERATION .
 Communication Error - If the cluster receives no lamp-ON or lamp-OFF messages from the TIPM or
the SKREEM for 10 consecutive message cycles, the security indicator is illuminated by the instrument
cluster. The indicator remains controlled and illuminated by the cluster until a valid lamp-ON or lamp-
OFF message is received from the SKREEM.
 Actuator Test - Each time the instrument cluster is put through the actuator test, the security indicator
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will be turned ON, then OFF again during the bulb check portion of the test to confirm the functionality
of the LED and the cluster control circuitry.
The TIPM sends electronic security indicator request messages to control the security indicator whenever the
ignition switch is in the OFF position and the VTSS is arming, armed, or alarming. Whenever the ignition
switch is in the ON or START positions, the SKREEM performs a self-test to decide whether the SKIS is in
good operating condition and whether a valid key is present in the ignition lock cylinder. The SKREEM then
sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also
known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN). If the cluster flashes the security indicator upon ignition ON, or
turns ON the security indicator solid after the bulb test, it indicates that a SKIS malfunction has occurred or that
the SKIS is ineffective.
For proper diagnosis of the VTSS, the SKIS, the SKREEM, the TIPM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the
electronic communication related to security indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the
SERVICE 4WD INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 33: Service 4WD Indicator

A service 4WD indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. However, on vehicles not equipped
with the optional four-wheel drive system and electronically shifted transfer case, this indicator is electronically
disabled. This indicator is located near the bottom of the speedometer dial face of the cluster overlay, just left of
center.
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The service 4WD indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the text SERV 4WD in the opaque layer of the
The service 4WD indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
The service 4WD indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the Totally Integrated Power
Module (TIPM) has recorded a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for an electronic transfer case circuit or
component malfunction. This indicator is controlled by a transistor on the instrument cluster circuit board based
upon cluster programming and electronic messages received by the cluster over the Controller Area Network
(CAN) data bus.
The service 4WD indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic
a path to ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the service 4WD
indicator for the following reasons:
 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the service 4WD indicator is
illuminated for about two seconds as a bulb test.
 Service 4WD Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic service 4WD
indicator lamp-ON message from the TIPM, the service 4WD indicator will be illuminated. The
indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a lamp-OFF message from the TIPM, or until the
ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first.
 Communication Error - If the cluster receives no lamp-ON or lamp-OFF messages from the TIPM for
10 seconds, the service 4WD indicator is illuminated by the cluster to indicate a loss of TIPM
communication. The indicator remains controlled and illuminated by the cluster until a valid message is
received from the TIPM.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the service 4WD indicator will be
The TIPM continually monitors the electronic transfer case control circuits and transfer case shift motor/mode
sensor assembly to determine the condition of the system. The TIPM then sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-
OFF message to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC).
For proper diagnosis of the TIPM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic communication related to
service 4WD indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic
information.
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SPEEDOMETER
DESCRIPTION
SPEEDOMETER
Fig. 34: Speedometer

A speedometer is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. The speedometer is located in the center of the
instrument cluster, between the tachometer and the minor gauge set. The speedometer consists of a movable
gauge needle or pointer controlled by the instrument cluster circuitry and a fixed 210 degree primary scale on
the gauge dial face that reads left-to-right either from 0 to 120 or 140 mph, or from 0 to 240 km/h, depending
upon the market for which the vehicle is manufactured.
Each version also has a secondary inner scale on the gauge dial face that provides the equivalent opposite units
from the primary scale. Text appearing on the cluster overlay below the high end of the scales abbreviates the
unit of measure for the primary scale (either MPH or km/h ), and below the low end of the scales abbreviates
the unit of measure for the secondary scale.
The speedometer graphics are white, gray and black against a black field, making them clearly visible within
the instrument cluster in daylight. When illuminated from behind by the panel lamps dimmer controlled cluster
illumination lighting with the exterior lamps turned ON, the graphics retain their unilluminated colors and
appearance. The orange gauge needle has internal optical illumination. Gauge illumination is provided by Light
Emitting Diode (LED) units soldered onto the instrument cluster electronic circuit board.
The speedometer is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
SPEEDOMETER
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The speedometer gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the vehicle road speed. This gauge is controlled
by the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received by the
The speedometer is driven by an electronic stepper motor unit that receives battery current on the instrument
 Vehicle Speed Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic vehicle speed message from the
PCM it will calculate the correct vehicle speed reading and position the gauge needle at that relative
speed position on the gauge scale. The cluster will receive a new message and reposition the gauge
pointer accordingly about every 88 milliseconds. The gauge needle will continually be positioned at the
relative vehicle speed position on the gauge scale until the vehicle stops moving, or until the ignition
 Communication Error - If the cluster fails to receive a speed message, it will hold the gauge needle at
the last indication for about three seconds, or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position,
whichever occurs first. After three seconds, the gauge needle will return to the left end of the gauge scale.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the speedometer needle will be
swept to several calibration points on the gauge scale in a prescribed sequence in order to confirm the
The PCM continually monitors the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) to determine the vehicle road speed. The PCM
then sends the proper vehicle speed messages to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also
known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN).
For proper diagnosis of the VSS, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic communication
related to speedometer operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic
information.
TACHOMETER
DESCRIPTION
TACHOMETER
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Fig. 35: Tachometer

A tachometer is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. The tachometer is located to the right of the
speedometer in the instrument cluster. The tachometer consists of a movable gauge needle or pointer controlled
by the instrument cluster circuitry and a fixed 185 degree scale on the gauge dial face that reads left-to-right
either from 0 to 7 for vehicles with a gasoline engine, or from 0 to 6 for vehicles with a diesel engine. The text
RPM X 1000 imprinted on the cluster overlay directly above the hub of the tachometer needle identifies that
each number on the tachometer scale is to be multiplied by 1000 RPM.
The tachometer graphics are white, gray and black against a black field except for several red graduations that
designate the red line area at the high end of the gauge scale, making them clearly visible within the instrument
cluster in daylight. When illuminated from behind by the panel lamps dimmer controlled cluster illumination
lighting with the exterior lamps turned ON, the graphics retain their unilluminated colors and appearance. The
orange gauge needle has internal optical illumination. Gauge illumination is provided by Light Emitting Diode
(LED) units soldered onto the instrument cluster electronic circuit board.
The tachometer is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
TACHOMETER
The tachometer gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the engine speed. This gauge is controlled by the
The tachometer is driven by an electronic stepper motor unit that receives battery current on the instrument
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 Engine Speed Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic engine speed message from the
PCM it will calculate the correct engine speed reading and position the gauge needle at that relative speed
position on the gauge scale. The cluster will receive a new message and reposition the gauge pointer
accordingly about every 88 milliseconds. The gauge needle will continually be repositioned at the relative
engine speed position on the gauge scale until the engine stops running, or until the ignition switch is
 Communication Error - If the cluster fails to receive a speed message, it will hold the gauge needle at
the last indication for about three seconds, or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position,
whichever occurs first. After three seconds, the gauge needle will return to the left end of the gauge scale.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the tachometer needle will be swept
to several calibration points on the gauge scale in a prescribed sequence in order to confirm the
The PCM continually monitors the crankshaft position sensor to determine the engine speed. The PCM then
sends the proper engine speed messages to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as
the Cab Compartment Node/CCN).
For proper diagnosis of the crankshaft position sensor, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to tachometer operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the appropriate
TOW/HAUL INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
TOW/HAUL INDICATOR
Fig. 36: Identifying Tow/Haul Indicator

A tow/haul indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. However, on vehicles not equipped with
an optional automatic transmission this indicator is electronically disabled. This indicator is located near the
base of the speedometer needle hub on the cluster overlay, just right of center.
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The tow/haul indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the text TOW/HAUL in the opaque layer of the
The tow/haul indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
TOW/HAUL INDICATOR
The tow/haul indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the tow/haul function of the tow/haul
switch has been selected, revising the shift schedule of the electronically controlled automatic transmission.
The tow/haul indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic
a path to ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the tow/haul indicator
 Tow/Haul Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic tow/haul
indicator lamp-ON message from the PCM indicating that the tow/haul shift schedule has been selected,
the indicator will be illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a lamp-OFF
message from the PCM, or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the tow/haul indicator will be
The PCM continually monitors the tow/haul switch to determine the proper outputs to the automatic
transmission. The PCM then sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the Electro Mechanical
Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN). For further diagnosis of the
tow/haul indicator or the instrument cluster circuitry that controls the LED, see DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
For proper diagnosis of the transmission control system, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the
electronic communication related to tow/haul indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the
TIRE PRESSURE MONITOR INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 37: Tire Pressure Monitor Indicator

A Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. However, on
vehicles not equipped with the TPM system, this indicator is electronically disabled. This indicator is located
within the odometer Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) unit.
The TPM indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of an icon that represents a cross-section of a tire with a
centered exclamation point in the VFD unit. The odometer VFD unit is soldered onto the instrument cluster
electronic circuit board, and is visible through a window with a smoked clear lens located on the lower edge of
the tachometer gauge dial face of the cluster overlay. The dark lens over the VFD prevents it from being clearly
visible when it is not illuminated. The indicator appears in an amber color when it is illuminated by the cluster
electronic circuit board, and the TPM indicator as well as all of the odometer VFD information is illuminated at
full (daytime) brightness and cannot be dimmed until the TPM indicator is extinguished.
The TPM indicator is serviced as a unit with the odometer VFD unit in the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
The Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the status of the TPM
system. The TPM indicator is controlled by the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster
programming and electronic messages received by the cluster from the Sentry Key REmote Entry Module
(SKREEM) (also known as the Wireless Control Module/WCM) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data
bus.
The TPM indicator is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic circuit, and that logic will only
allow this indicator to operate when the instrument cluster receives a battery current input on the fused ignition
switch output (run-start) circuit. Therefore, the indicator will always be OFF when the ignition switch is in any
position except ON or START. The indicator only illuminates when it is energized by the instrument cluster
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logic circuit. The instrument cluster will turn ON the TPM indicator for the following reasons:
 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, the SKREEM sends an electronic
TPM indicator lamp-ON message to the cluster to illuminate the TPM indicator for about three seconds
as a bulb test.
 TPM Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic TPM indicator lamp-
ON message from the SKREEM, the indicator will be illuminated. The indicator can be flashed ON and
OFF, or illuminated solid, as dictated by the SKREEM message. The indicator remains illuminated until
the cluster receives a lamp-OFF message from the SKREEM, or until the ignition switch is turned to the
OFF position, whichever occurs first.
 Communication Error - If the cluster receives no TPM lamp-ON or lamp-OFF messages from the
SKREEM for six consecutive seconds, the TPM indicator is illuminated by the instrument cluster. The
indicator remains controlled and illuminated by the cluster until a valid lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message
is received from the SKREEM.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the TPM indicator will be turned
ON, then OFF again during the odometer VFD portion of the test in order to confirm the functionality of
the VFD and the cluster control circuitry.
The SKREEM performs a self-test each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position to decide whether
the TPM system is in good operating condition and whether the tire inflation pressures are too high or too low.
The SKREEM then sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the Electro Mechanical Instrument
Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN). If the instrument cluster turns ON the TPM
indicator after the bulb test, it indicates that the inflation pressure of a tire is too low or that a malfunction has
occurred and the TPM system is ineffective.
For proper diagnosis of the TPM system, the SKREEM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to TPM indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the appropriate
TRACTION CONTROL INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 38: Traction Control Indicator

A traction control indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. This indicator is located near the
bottom of the speedometer dial face of the cluster overlay, directly below the speedometer needle hub.
The traction control indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol
icon for Stability - Anti-Spin in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the
The traction control indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
The traction control indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the Electronic Stability Program
(ESP)/Brake Assist System (BAS)/Traction Control System (TCS) has been activated. This indicator is
controlled by the instrument cluster logic circuit based upon cluster programming and electronic messages
received by the cluster from the Controller Antilock Brake (CAB) over the Controller Area Network (CAN)
data bus.
The traction control indicator is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic circuit, and that logic will
only allow this indicator to operate when the instrument cluster receives a battery current input on the fused
ignition switch output (run-start) circuit. Therefore, the indicator will always be OFF when the ignition switch is
in any position except ON or START. The indicator only illuminates when it is provided a path to ground by
the instrument cluster circuitry. The instrument cluster will turn ON the traction control indicator for the
following reasons:
 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the traction control indicator is
illuminated for about four seconds as a bulb test. The entire bulb test is a function of the CAB.
 Traction Control Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic traction
control indicator lamp-ON message from the CAB indicating that the ESP/BAS/TCS has been
activated, the traction control indicator will be illuminated. The indicator can be flashed ON and OFF, or
illuminated solid, as dictated by the CAB message. The indicator remains illuminated solid or continues
to flash until the cluster receives a lamp-OFF message from the CAB, or until the ignition switch is
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the traction control indicator will be
The CAB continually monitors the traction control switch to determine the proper outputs to the components of
the Antilock Brake System (ABS). The CAB then sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the
Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN).
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For proper diagnosis of the traction control switch, the ESP/BAS/TCS, the CAB, the EMIC, the CAN data bus
or the electronic communication related to traction control indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required.
TRANS TEMP INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
TRANSMISSION OVERTEMP INDICATOR
Fig. 39: Identifying Transmission Overtemp Indicator

A transmission over-temperature indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. However, on

vehicles not equipped with an optional automatic transmission, this indicator is electronically disabled. This
indicator is located near the bottom of the speedometer dial face of the cluster overlay, just right of center.
The transmission over-temperature indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and
Display Symbol icon for Transmission Temperature in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The
dark outer layer of the overlay prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. A red
The transmission over-temperature indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
TRANSMISSION OVERTEMP INDICATOR
The transmission over-temperature indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the transmission
fluid temperature is excessive, which may lead to accelerated transmission component wear or failure. This
indicator is controlled by a transistor on the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming
and electronic messages received by the cluster from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) over the Controller
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The transmission over-temperature indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the
instrument cluster logic circuit, and that logic will only allow this indicator to operate when the instrument
cluster receives a battery current input on the fused ignition switch output (run-start) circuit. Therefore, the LED
will always be OFF when the ignition switch is in any position except ON or START. The LED only
illuminates when it is provided a path to ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will
turn ON the transmission over-temperature indicator for the following reasons:
 Bulb Test - Each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position the transmission over-temperature
indicator is illuminated for about two seconds as a bulb test.
 Trans Over-Temp Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic trans
over-temp indicator lamp-ON message from the PCM indicating that the transmission fluid temperature
is 135°C (275°F) or higher, the indicator will be illuminated and a single chime tone is sounded. The
indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a lamp-OFF message from the PCM, or until the
ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first. The chime tone feature will only
repeat during the same ignition cycle if the indicator is cycled OFF and then ON again by the appropriate
lamp-ON and lamp-OFF messages from the PCM.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the transmission over-temperature
indicator will be turned ON, then OFF again during the bulb check portion of the test to confirm the
functionality of the LED and the cluster control circuitry.
The PCM continually monitors the transmission temperature sensor to determine the transmission operating
condition. The PCM then sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the Electro Mechanical
Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN). If the instrument cluster
illuminates the transmission over-temperature indicator due to a high transmission oil temperature condition, it
may indicate that the transmission or the transmission cooling system are being overloaded, or that they require
service. For further diagnosis of the transmission over-temperature indicator or the instrument cluster circuitry
that controls the LED, see DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
For proper diagnosis of the transmission temperature sensor, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the
electronic communication related to transmission over-temperature indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is
TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 40: Turn Signal Indicator

Two turn signal indicators, one right and one left, are standard equipment on all instrument clusters. The turn
signal indicators are located near the bottom of the speedometer dial face of the cluster overlay, one on the right
and one on the left. Illumination of this indicator may also be accompanied by the display of a turn signal-on
warning textual message in the cluster reconfigurable Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) unit.
Each turn signal indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol icon
for Turn Warning in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the overlay
prevents these icons from being clearly visible when they are not illuminated. A green Light Emitting Diode
(LED) behind each cutout in the opaque layer of the overlay causes the indicator to appear in green through the
The turn signal indicators are serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
The turn signal indicators give an indication to the vehicle operator that the turn signal (left or right indicator
flashing) or hazard warning (both left and right indicators flashing) have been selected and are operating. These
indicators are controlled by transistors on the instrument cluster electronic circuit board based upon the cluster
programming and electronic messages received from the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) over the
Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.
Each turn signal indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic
current input on the fused B(+) circuit. Therefore, each LED can be illuminated regardless of the ignition switch
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The instrument cluster will turn ON the turn signal indicators for the following reasons:
 Turn Signal Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic right or left
turn signal-ON message from the TIPM over the CAN data bus, the appropriate turn signal indicator will
be flashed ON and OFF. The TIPM also sends the appropriate electronic message to the cluster to control
the flash rate of the turn signal indicators, as well as to control the click rate of an electromechanical relay
soldered onto the cluster electronic circuit board that emulates the sound emitted by a conventional turn
signal flasher. The turn signal indicators continue to flash ON and OFF until the cluster receives a lamp-
OFF message from the TIPM, or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs
first.
 Hazard Warning Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic hazard
warning-ON message from the TIPM over the CAN data bus, both turn signal indicators will be flashed
ON and OFF. The TIPM also sends the appropriate electronic messages to the cluster to control the flash
rate of the right and left turn signal indicators, as well as to control the click rate of an electromechanical
relay soldered onto the cluster electronic circuit board that emulates the sound emitted by a conventional
hazard warning flasher. The turn signal indicators continue to flash ON and OFF until the cluster receives
a hazard warning-OFF message from the TIPM.
 Turn Signal-On Textual Warning Message - When the cluster detects that a turn signal has been active
continuously for 1.6 kilometers (1 mile) with the vehicle speed greater than 22 kilometers-per-hour (15
miles-per hour) a chime tone will be sounded and, if the vehicle is so equipped, a TURN SIGNAL ON
textual message will appear within the instrument cluster reconfigurable Vacuum Fluorescent Display
(VFD) unit.
 Lamp Out Mode - If the TIPM detects an ineffective turn signal lamp or circuit, it increases the flash
rate for the remaining operative turn signals and sends an electronic message to the instrument cluster. To
provide an indication of the problem to the vehicle operator the instrument cluster then increases the flash
rate of the turn signal indicators, the click rate of the electromechanical relay and, if the vehicle is so
equipped, displays a TURN SIGNAL LAMP OUT textual message in the reconfigurable VFD unit.
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the turn signal indicators will be
turned ON, then OFF again during the bulb check portion of the test to confirm the functionality of each
The Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN)
continually monitors the electronic messages from the TIPM to determine the proper turn signal and hazard
warning indicator operation.
For proper diagnosis of the turn signal and hazard warning system, the multi-function switch, the TIPM, the
EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic communication related to turn signal indicator operation a diagnostic
scan tool is required. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
WAIT-TO-START INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 41: Wait-To-Start Indicator

A wait-to-start indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. However, on vehicles not equipped
with an optional diesel engine, this indicator is electronically disabled. This indicator is located near the bottom
of the speedometer dial face of the cluster overlay, just right of center.
The wait-to-start indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol icon
for Diesel Preheat in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the overlay
prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when it is not illuminated. An amber Light Emitting Diode
(LED) behind the cutout in the opaque layer of the overlay causes the indicator to appear in amber through the
The wait-to-start indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
The wait-to-start indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when the diesel engine is too cool for
efficient and reliable engine starting, and the engine glow plugs are energized in their pre-heat operating mode.
The wait-to-start indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic
a path to ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the wait-to-start
 Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic wait-to-start
indicator lamp-ON message from the PCM indicating that the air temperature is too cool for efficient
and reliable engine starting and the glow plugs are energized in their pre-heat mode, the wait-to-start
indicator will be illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a lamp-OFF
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message from the PCM, until the PCM detects that the engine is running, or until the ignition switch is
 Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the wait-to-start indicator will be
The PCM continually monitors the glow plug control circuits to determine when they are energized in their pre-
heat operating mode. The PCM then sends the proper lamp-ON or lamp-OFF message to the Electro
Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN).
For proper diagnosis of the glow plug control circuits, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to wait-to-start indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the
WATER-IN-FUEL INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 42: Identifying Water-In-Fuel Indicator

A water-in-fuel indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters. However, on vehicles not equipped
with an optional diesel engine, this indicator is electronically disabled. This indicator is located near the bottom
of the speedometer dial face of the cluster overlay, just left of center.
The water-in-fuel indicator consists of a stencil-like cutout of the International Control and Display Symbol
icon for Water In Fuel in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the
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The water-in-fuel indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
The water-in-fuel indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator when there is excessive water detected in
the diesel fuel. This indicator is controlled by the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster
programming and electronic messages received over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus from the
The water-in-fuel indicator Light Emitting Diode (LED) is completely controlled by the instrument cluster logic
a path to ground by the instrument cluster transistor. The instrument cluster will turn ON the water-in-fuel
 Water-In-Fuel Indicator Lamp-On Message - Each time the cluster receives an electronic water-in-
fuel indicator lamp-ON message from the PCM indicating there is excessive water in the diesel fuel
system, the water-in-fuel indicator will be illuminated. The indicator remains illuminated until the cluster
receives a lamp-OFF message from the PCM, or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position,
whichever occurs first.
The PCM continually monitors the water-in-fuel sensor to determine whether there is excessive water in the
diesel fuel system. The PCM then sends the proper electronic water-in-fuel message to the Electro Mechanical
Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN).
For proper diagnosis of the water-in-fuel-sensor, the PCM, the EMIC, the CAN data bus or the electronic
communication related to water-in-fuel indicator operation a diagnostic scan tool is required. Refer to the
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2007 MANUAL TRANSMISSION NSG370 - Diagnosis & Overhaul - Nitro
2007 MANUAL TRANSMISSION
NSG370 - Diagnosis & Overhaul - Nitro
NSG370
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NSG370
LOW LUBRICANT LEVEL
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the result of a leak, inadequate lubricant fill or incorrect
lubricant level check.
Rear transmission leaks will be from the oil seals or component mating surfaces.
Front transmission leaks will be from the front input shaft retainer seal. Lubricant may drip from the clutch
housing after extended operation. If leak is severe, it may contaminate the clutch disc.
Lubricant level check can only be made when the vehicle is level and allowing the lubricant to settle for a
minute before checking. This will ensure an accurate check and avoid an under filled or over filled condition.
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by low lubricant level, improper or contaminated lubricants. This will cause
noise, excessive wear, internal bind, and hard shifting. Substantial lubricant leaks can result in gear, shift rail,
synchro, and bearing damage. The first indications of component damage is usually hard shifting and noise.
Shift component damage, clutch adjustment, worn pressure plate or disc are also causes of increased shift effort.
If clutch problem is advanced, gear clash during shifts can result. Worn or damaged synchronizer rings can
cause gear clash when shifting into any forward gear. In some new or rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings
may tend to stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most cases, this condition will decline as the rings
wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise during normal operation. Rotating gears generate a mild whine
that is audible, but generally only at extreme speeds.
Severe, highly audible transmission noise is generally the initial indicator of a lubricant problem. Insufficient,
improper or contaminated lubricant will promote rapid wear of gears, synchronizers, shift rails, forks and
bearings. The overheating caused by a lubricant problem, can also lead to gear and bearing damage.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE-DRAIN & FILL
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Fig. 1: Drain Plug


2. Remove drain plug (1) and drain fluid.
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Fig. 2: Fill Plug

3. Install drain plug and remove fill plug (1).

4. Fill transmission with 1.5 L (3.17 pts.) of Mopar® Manual Transmission Lubricant MS-9224 or to the
bottom of the fill plug (1) hole.
REMOVAL
NSG370
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Fig. 3: Identifying Shift Knob & Boot


2. Remove counsel, shift knob (1) and boot (2).
Fig. 4: Removing/Installing Shift Lever Screw, Lever And Inner Boot

3. Remove shift lever screw (1), lever (2) and inner boot (3).
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Fig. 5: Drain Plug


5. Remove drain plug (1) and drain fluid.
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Fig. 6: Identifying Transfer Case & Transmission

6. Mark installation reference marks on propeller shaft/shafts and remove shafts.

7. Remove transfer case shift cable, wiring connector and vent hose, if equipped.
8. Remove transfer case (1) from transmission (2), if equipped.
Fig. 7: Transmission Mount & Crossmember

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9. Support transmission with jack.

10. Remove transmission mount (1) bolts and crossmember (2) bolts. Remove transmission mount (1) with
crossmember (2).

11. Vehicles with 3.7L engine, remove exhaust pipe with converters (3).
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Fig. 9: Identifying Clutch Slave Cylinder Nuts & Cylinder

12. Remove clutch slave cylinder nuts (1) and remove cylinder (2).
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Fig. 10: Backup Lamp Switch & Wiring Connector

13. Remove backup lamp switch (1) wiring connector (2).
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Fig. 11: Identifying Transmission Bolts (3.7L Engine)

14. Remove starter bolts and remove starter.

15. Remove transmission bolts (1,2,3) on 3.7L engine and remove transmission.
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Fig. 12: Identifying Transmission Bolts (2.8L Diesel)

16. Remove transmission bolts (1,2,3) on 2.8L diesel engine and remove transmission.
DISASSEMBLY
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Fig. 13: Identifying Shift Tower & Bolts

1. Remove shift tower (1) bolts (2) and remove tower.
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Fig. 14: Identifying Shift Tower Opening & Shift Two Shift Rails
2. Through shift tower opening (1) shift two shift rails (2) forward to engage two gears.
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Fig. 15: Identifying Back-Up Lamp Switch & Bolt

3. Remove back-up lamp switch (1) bolt (2) and remove switch.
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Fig. 16: Identifying Countershaft Plug & Front Housing

4. Remove countershaft plug (1) from the front housing (2) with a seal pick.
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Fig. 17: Identifying Countershaft Bolt & Front Housing

5. Remove countershaft bolt (1) from the front housing (2).
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Fig. 18: Identifying Output Shaft, Seal & Rear Housing

6. Remove output shaft (1) seal (2) from rear housing (3) with a seal pick.
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Fig. 19: Identifying Output Shaft & Snap Ring

7. Remove output shaft (1) snap ring (2) 4x4 only.
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Fig. 20: Identifying Front Housing & Rear Housing

8. Stand transmission on the rear housing and remove the housing bolts.
9. Remove front housing (1) from the rear housing (2).
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Fig. 21: Identifying Shift Rails & Support Plate

10. Remove shift rails (1) support plate (2) bolts.
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Fig. 22: Identifying Input Shaft & Roller Bearing

11. Remove input shaft (1) roller bearing (2).
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Fig. 23: Identifying Fifth Gear Synchronizer Blocker Ring & 5-6 Synchronizer Hub
12. Remove fifth gear synchronizer blocker ring (1) from 5-6 synchronizer hub (2).
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Fig. 24: Identifying Fifth Gear Synchronizer Friction Ring & 5-6 Synchronizer Hub
13. Remove fifth gear synchronizer friction ring (1) from 5-6 synchronizer hub (2).
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Fig. 25: Identifying Mainshaft & Remover/Installer 9636

14. Set geartrain and shift rails with rear housing into Fixture 9633.
15. Remove mainshaft (1) from rear housing bearing with Remover/Installer 9636 (2).
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Fig. 26: Identifying Mainshaft, Countershaft & Shift Rails/Forks

16. Remove mainshaft (1), countershaft (2) and shift rails/forks (3) from fixture.
MAINSHAFT
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Fig. 27: Identifying 5-6 Synchronizer Sleeve & Detents

1. Clamp build Fixture 9648 in a vise. Install mainshaft with 5-6 synchronizer facing up in build Fixture
9648.
2. Push 5-6 synchronizer sleeve (1) down on hub and remove detents (2) springs and balls.
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Fig. 28: Identifying 5-6 Synchronizer Sleeve & Synchronizer Hub

3. Remove 5-6 synchronizer sleeve (1) from synchronizer hub (2).
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Fig. 29: Identifying 5-6 Synchronizer Hub & Snap Ring

4. Remove 5-6 synchronizer hub (1) snap ring (2) and record location.
NOTE: All snap rings are select fit from the factory, and must be installed in their
original location.
Microsoft
Fig. 30: Identifying 5-6 Synchronizer Hub & Sixth Gear Synchronizer Rings
5. Remove 5-6 synchronizer hub (1) and sixth gear synchronizer rings (2) with a three jaw puller. Place
puller jaws under sixth gear synchronizer rings (2).
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Fig. 31: Sixth Gear & Bearing

6. Remove sixth gear (1) and bearing (2).
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Fig. 32: 3 & 4 Gear

7. Third gear (1) and fourth gear (2) are serviced with the mainshaft only.
8. Remove mainshaft from Fixture 9648. Turn fixture over in vise and set opposite end of mainshaft into the
fixture.
Microsoft
Fig. 33: Identifying Reverse Gear & Synchronizer Sleeve

9. Remove reverse gear (1) synchronizer sleeve (2) off synchronizer hub.
Microsoft
Fig. 34: Identifying Reverse Synchronizer Hub & Detents

10. Remove reverse synchronizer hub (1) detents (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 35: Identifying Reverse Synchronizer Hub & Three Jaw Puller
11. Remove reverse synchronizer hub (1) with three jaw puller (2). Place puller jaws in hub detent openings.
Microsoft
Fig. 36: Identifying Reverse Gear & Synchronizer Ring

12. Remove reverse gear (1) synchronizer ring (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 37: Identifying Reverse Gear & Bearing

13. Remove reverse gear (1) and bearing (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 38: Identifying Reverse Gear Bearing Race, Thrust Washer, First Gear & Puller
14. Remove reverse gear bearing race (1), thrust washer (2) and first gear (3) with puller (4). Place puller
jaws under first gear (3).
15. Remove first gear bearing.
Microsoft
Fig. 39: Identifying Synchronizer Hub & Detents

16. Remove first gear synchronizer rings.

17. Push 1-2 synchronizer sleeve down on synchronizer hub (1) detents (2), balls and springs.
Microsoft

18. Remove 1-2 synchronizer sleeve (1) from synchronizer hub (2).
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19. Remove 1-2 synchronizer hub (1) snap ring (2).
original location.
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Fig. 42: Identifying 1-2 Synchronizer Hub & Second Gear

20. Remove 1-2 synchronizer hub (1), synchronizer rings and second gear (2) off shaft with a press. Place
second gear (2) on press plates and press shaft through 1-2 synchronizer hub (1), synchronizer rings and
second gear (2)
COUNTERSHAFT
Microsoft
Fig. 43: Identifying Bearing Surfaces & 3-4 Synchronizer Assembly

The countershaft (1) and 3-4 synchronizer (2) are serviced as an assembly only.
FRONT HOUSING
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Fig. 44: Identifying Input Shaft Retainer Bolts & Retainer

1. Remove input shaft retainer bolts (2) and remove retainer (1).
Microsoft
Fig. 45: Identifying Countershaft Bearing & Retainers

2. Remove countershaft bearing (1) retainer (2) bolts and remove retainers.
Microsoft
Fig. 46: Identifying Countershaft Bearing & Housing

3. Remove countershaft bearing (1) from housing (2) with a hammer and driver.
Microsoft
Fig. 47: Identifying Input Shaft & Bearing Retainers

4. Remove input shaft (1) bearing retainer bolts and remove retainers (2, 3).
5. Remove input shaft and bearing from housing with a dead blow hammer.
Microsoft
Fig. 48: Identifying Input Shaft Seal & Housing

6. Remove input shaft seal (1) from housing (2) with a hammer and driver.
INPUT SHAFT
Microsoft
Fig. 49: Identifying Input Shaft Bearing & Snap Ring

1. Remove input shaft bearing (1) snap ring (2).
original location.
Microsoft
Fig. 50: Identifying Input Shaft Bearing & Splitter 1130

2. Remove input shaft bearing (1) from input shaft with a Splitter 1130 (2) and press. Place splitter around
bearing retainer lip and press input shaft through the bearing.
REAR HOUSING
Microsoft
Fig. 51: Identifying Reverse Idler Gear Shaft Bolt & Housing
1. Remove reverse idler gear shaft bolt (1) from housing (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 52: Identifying Idler Gear Shaft Bolt & Shaft

2. Thread idler gear shaft bolt (1) into the shaft (2). Then work shaft (2) out of the idler gear.
Microsoft
Fig. 53: Identifying Idler Gear & Shaft Support

3. Remove reverse idler gear (1) shaft support (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 54: Identifying Idler Gear & Thrust Washer

4. Remove reverse idler gear (1) thrust washer (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 55: Identifying Idler Gear & Bearing

5. Remove reverse idler gear (1) and bearing (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 56: Identifying Plastic Countershaft Roller Bearing Cage & Screw Driver
6. Break plastic countershaft roller bearing cage (1) with a screw driver (2). Then remove cage and roller
bearing.
Microsoft
Fig. 57: Identifying Countershaft Roller Bearing Shell & Remover 7794-A
7. Remove countershaft roller bearing shell (1) from the rear housing with Remover 7794-A (2) and Slide
Hammer C-637.
Microsoft
Fig. 58: Identifying Mainshaft Bearing & Retainers

8. Remove mainshaft bearing (1) retainer bolts and remove retainers (2).
9. Remove bearing from housing with a hammer and driver.
CLEANING
Clean gears, shafts, shift components and transmission housings with a standard parts cleaning solvent. Do not
use acid or corrosive base solvents. Dry all parts except bearings with compressed air.
Clean shaft bearings with a mild solvent such as MOPAR™ degreasing solvent or similar solvents. Do not dry
the bearings with compressed air. Allow the bearings to either air dry or wipe them dry with clean shop towels.
INSPECTION
Microsoft
Fig. 59: Identifying Third Gear & Fourth Gear

NOTE: Minor corrosion, nicks, or pitting can be smoothed with 400 grit emery and
polished out with crocus cloth.
Bearings: Inspect for worn, cracked, flat-spotted or brinnelled.
Gears: Inspect for worn, chipped or cracked teeth. Inspect bearing surfaces for ware or flat-spotted.
Mainshaft: Inspect for worn splines, snap ring grooves and threads. Inspect bearing surfaces for ware or flat-
spotted. Third gear (1) and fourth gear (2) are serviced with mainshaft only.
Microsoft
Fig. 60: Inspecting Bearing Surfaces & 3-4 Synchronizer Assembly

Countershaft: Inspect for worn, chipped or cracked teeth. Inspect bearing surfaces (1) for wear or flat-spots.
Inspect 3-4 synchronizer assembly (2). Inspect oil slinger for cracks. The countershaft is serviced as an
assembly.
Oil Slinger: Inspect first/reverse oil slinger for cracks.
Microsoft
Fig. 61: Inspecting Input Shaft & Bearing Surface For Damage
Input Shaft: Inspect for worn, chipped or cracked teeth (1). Inspect bearing surface (2) for wear or flat-spots.
Inspect for worn splines (3).
Microsoft
Fig. 62: Inspecting Synchronizer Rings

Synchronizer components: Inspect for worn, chipped or cracked teeth (1) and burned friction surface (2) or
flaking off friction material (3). Synchronizers are serviced as an assembly. 3-4 synchronizer assembly is
serviced with countershaft.
Microsoft
Fig. 63: Inspecting Shift Fork Shoes & Pads

Shift forks: Inspect shift forks and shoes (1) for wear and distortion. Check fit of fork shoes in synchronizer
sleeve to ensure parts fit and work smoothly, replace if necessary. If shift fork pads (2) are worn, the shift fork
must be replaced.
Housing/Tail housing: Inspect sealing and mating surfaces are free of burrs and nicks. Inspect alignment
dowels are tight and in good condition.
Microsoft
Fig. 64: Inspecting Shaft Retainer & Release Bearing Slide Surface
Input Shaft Retainer: Inspect retainer (1) release bearing slide surface (2).
ASSEMBLY
MAINSHAFT
Microsoft
Fig. 65: Installing Second Gear Bearing On Mainshaft

1. Place mainshaft in Fixture 9648 mounted in a vise.

2. Install second gear bearing (1) on mainshaft (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 66: Installing Second Gear And Bearing On Mainshaft

3. Install second gear (1) and bearing (2) on mainshaft.
Microsoft
Fig. 67: Installing Inner Synchronizer Friction Ring On Second Gear

4. Install inner synchronizer friction ring (1) on second gear (2).
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Fig. 68: Installing Outer Synchronizer Friction Ring On Second Gear

5. Install outer synchronizer friction ring (1) on second gear (2).
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Fig. 69: Installing Synchronizer Blocker Ring On Second Gear

6. Install synchronizer blocker ring (1) on second gear (2).
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Fig. 70: Installing 1-2 Synchronizer Hub With Installer 8228 And Press
7. Install 1-2 synchronizer hub (1) with Installer 8228 (2) and a press. Align hub detent openings with
synchronizer rings.
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8. Install 1-2 synchronizer hub (1) snap ring (2).
NOTE: Reuse original snap ring or thickest ring that will fit.
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9. Install 1-2 synchronizer sleeve (1) and push to the bottom of the synchronizer hub (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 73: Identifying Synchronizer Hub & Detents

10. Install 1-2 synchronizer hub (1) detents, springs, and balls (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 74: Installing First Gear Blocker Ring Into Synchronizer Hub
11. Install first gear blocker ring (1) into synchronizer hub (2).
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Fig. 75: Installing First Gear Outer Friction Ring Into Synchronizer Hub
12. Install first gear outer friction ring (1) into synchronizer hub (2).
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Fig. 76: Installing First Gear Inner Friction Ring Into Synchronizer Hub
13. Install first gear inner friction ring (1) into synchronizer hub (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 77: 1St Gear & Bearing

14. Install first gear (1) and bearing (2). Then center 1-2 synchronizer sleeve on synchronizer hub.
Microsoft
Fig. 78: First Gear Thrust Washer & Reverse Gear Bearing Race
WARNING: Use welding gloves when handling heated components. Failure to

follow these instructions will result in personal injury.
CAUTION: A bearing heater is used to assemble first gear thrust washer (1) and
reverse gear bearing race (2). Use only a bearing heater/hot plate and
follow manufacture's instructions. Heat components to 100 - 177
Celsius (212° Min. - 350° Max Fahrenheit). Never use an open flame to
heat components. Never leave components on heater for and
extended amount of time. If component is discolored after heating,
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the component has been overheated and must not be used. Failure to
follow these instructions will result in component damage.
15. Heat first gear thrust washer (1) and reverse gear bearing race (2) with bearing heater to maximum of 177
Celsius (350°).
Fig. 79: First Gear Thrust Washer & Reverse Gear Bearing Race
16. Using welding gloves or tongs, install first gear thrust washer (1) then reverse gear bearing race (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 80: Identifying Reverse Gear & Bearing

17. Install reverse gear (1) and bearing (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 81: Identifying Reverse Gear & Synchronizer Ring

18. Install reverse gear (1) synchronizer friction ring (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 82: Identifying Reverse Gear Synchronizer Hub, Installer W-262, Hub Detent Opening &
Friction Ring
19. Install reverse gear synchronizer hub (1) on mainshaft with Installer W-262 (2) and a press. Align hub
detent opening (3) with friction ring (4) lugs.
Microsoft
Fig. 83: Identifying Reverse Synchronizer Hub & Detents

20. Install reverse gear synchronizer hub (1) detents (2).
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Fig. 84: Identifying Reverse Gear & Synchronizer Sleeve

21. Install reverse gear (1) synchronizer sleeve (2) with tooth points pointing down and center sleeve on
synchronizer hub.
22. Remove mainshaft from Fixture 9648. Turn fixture over in the vise, then install opposite end of mainshaft
in the fixture.
Microsoft
Fig. 85: Sixth Gear & Bearing

23. Install sixth gear (1) and bearing (2) on mainshaft.
Microsoft
Fig. 86: Sixth Gear Synchronizer Blocker Ring & Sixth Gear
24. Install sixth gear synchronizer blocker ring (1) on sixth gear (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 87: Sixth Gear Synchronizer Friction Ring & Sixth Gear
25. Install sixth gear synchronizer friction ring (1) on sixth gear (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 88: Identifying 5-6 Synchronizer Hub, Installer W-262, Hub Detent Opening & Friction Ring
Lugs
26. Install 5-6 synchronizer hub (1) with Installer W-262 (2) and a press. Align hub detent opening (3) with
friction ring lugs (4).
NOTE: 5-6 synchronizer hub center, is offset and must be install with larger offset
down.
Microsoft

27. Install 5-6 synchronizer hub (1) snap ring (2).
28. Install 5-6 synchronizer sleeve on hub (1).
REAR HOUSING
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1. Install countershaft bearing into rear housing with Installer 9643 (1) and Handle C-4171 (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 91: Identifying Mainshaft Bearing & Housing

2. Install mainshaft bearing (1) into housing (2).

3. Install bearing retainer and tighten bolts to 10 N.m (7.3 ft. lbs.).
Microsoft
Fig. 92: Identifying Reverse Idler Gear & Housing

4. Install reverse idler gear (1) into housing (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 93: Identifying Idler Gear & Bearing

5. Install idler gear (1) bearing (2) into gear.
Microsoft
Fig. 94: Identifying Idler Gear & Thrust Washer

6. Install idler gear (1) thrust washer (2) on idler gear.
Microsoft
Fig. 95: Identifying Idler Gear & Shaft Support

7. Install idler gear (1) shaft support (2) into housing.
Microsoft
Fig. 96: Identifying Idler Gear, Shaft & Shaft Support Hole
8. Install idler gear (1) shaft (2) with shaft bolt hole aligned with shaft support hole (3).
Microsoft
Fig. 97: Identifying Reverse Idler Gear Shaft Bolt & Housing
9. Install idler gear shaft bolt (1) into the housing (2) and tighten to 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.).
Microsoft
Fig. 98: Identifying Rear Housing & Installer 9638

10. Install 4x4 output shaft seal into rear housing (1) with Installer 9638 (2). Install 4x2 output shaft seal into
rear housing with Installer 9635 and Installer 6448A.
INPUT SHAFT
Microsoft
Fig. 99: Identifying Input Shaft Bearing & Bearing Retainer Lip
1. Install input shaft bearing (1) on input shaft with the bearing retainer lip (2) facing fifth gear.
Microsoft
Fig. 100: Identifying Input Shaft Bearing & Installer 6448A

2. Install input shaft bearing (1) with Installer 6448A (2) and a press.
Microsoft
Fig. 101: Identifying Input Shaft Bearing & Snap Ring

3. Install input shaft bearing (1) snap ring (2).
FRONT HOUSING
Microsoft
Fig. 102: Identifying Installer 9635 & Installer 6448A

1. Install input shaft seal with Installer 9635 (1) Installer 6448A (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 103: Identifying Input Shaft & Bearing

2. Install input shaft (1) with bearing (2) into housing.
Microsoft
Fig. 104: Identifying Input Shaft & Bearing Retainers

3. Install input shaft (1) bearing retainers (2, 3) and tighten bolts to 10 N.m (88 in. lbs.).
Microsoft
Fig. 105: Identifying Input Shaft Retainer Bolts & Retainer

4. Install input shaft retainer (1) and tighten bolts (2) to 9 N.m (80 in. lbs.).
Microsoft
Fig. 106: Identifying Countershaft Bearing & Bearing Retainer Lip

5. Install countershaft bearing (1) into housing with bearing retainer lip (2) facing up.
Microsoft
Fig. 107: Identifying Countershaft Bearing & Retainers

6. Install countershaft bearing (1) retainers (2) and tighten bolts to 10 N.m (88 in. lbs.).
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Microsoft
Fig. 108: Installing Mainshaft Onto Build Fixture 9633

1. Install mainshaft (1) onto Build Fixture 9633 (2).
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Fig. 109: Installing Countershaft Onto Build Fixture 9633

2. Install countershaft (1) onto Build Fixture 9633 (2).
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Fig. 110: Installing Oil Slinger On Countershaft Between Reverse And First Gear
3. Install oil slinger (3) on countershaft (2) between reverse (1) and first gear (4).
CAUTION: Oil slinger is fragile and can crack during installation. Failure to
follow these instructions will result in cracking the oil slinger and
lack of oil to first/reverse bearing.
Microsoft
Fig. 111: Installing Shift Rails And Forks Onto Build Fixture 9633 And Countershaft/Mainshaft
4. Install shift rails and forks (1) onto Build Fixture 9633 (2) and countershaft/mainshaft.
Microsoft
Fig. 112: Installing Rear Housing On Mainshaft With Installer 9636

5. Install rear housing on mainshaft (1) with Installer 9636 (2).
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Fig. 113: Installing 5-6 Synchronizer Hub Detents, Springs, And Balls
6. Remove rear housing with mainshaft, countershaft and shift rails from fixture. Set assembly on rear
housing with shafts pointing up.
7. Install 5-6 synchronizer hub (1) detents, springs, and balls (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 114: Identifying Fifth Gear Synchronizer Friction Ring & 5-6 Synchronizer Hub
8. Install fifth gear synchronizer friction ring (1) on 5-6 synchronizer hub (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 115: Identifying Fifth Gear Synchronizer Blocker Ring & 5-6 Synchronizer Hub
9. Install fifth gear blocker ring (1) on 5-6 synchronizer hub (2). Then hold blocker ring and center
synchronizer sleeve.
Microsoft
Fig. 116: Installing Input Shaft Roller Bearing On Mainshaft

10. Install input shaft roller bearing (1) on mainshaft (2).
Microsoft
Fig. 117: Identifying Shift Rails & Support Plate

11. Install shift rail (1) support plate (2) bolts and tighten to 8 N.m (71 in. lbs.).
Microsoft
Fig. 118: Identifying Front Housing & Rear Housing

12. Apply MOPAR® Gasket Maker to front housing.

13. Install front housing (1) on rear housing (2) and tighten bolts to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
Microsoft
Fig. 119: Identifying Output Shaft & Snap Ring

14. Install output shaft (1) snap ring (2) 4x4 only.
Microsoft
Fig. 120: Identifying Output Shaft, Seal & Rear Housing

15. Install output shaft (1) seal (2) in rear housing with Installer 9638.
Microsoft
Fig. 121: Identifying Shift Tower Opening & Shift Two Shift Rails
16. Through the shift tower opening (1) move two shift rails (2) forward to lock the transmission in two gear.
Microsoft
Fig. 122: Identifying Countershaft Bolt & Front Housing

17. Install countershaft bolt (1) into the front housing (2) and tighten to 100 N.m (74 ft. lbs.).
Microsoft
Fig. 123: Identifying Countershaft Plug & Front Housing

18. Install countershaft plug (1) in front housing (2) with Installer 7829-A and Handle C-4171.
Microsoft
Fig. 124: Identifying Shift Tower & Bolts

19. Move shift rails to neutral.

20. To prevent sealant from plugging the transmission vent, apply just a thin film of MOPAR® Gasket Maker
to the shift tower (1) mating surface.
21. Install shift tower (1) and tighten bolts (2) to 14 N.m (10 ft. lbs.).
Microsoft
Fig. 125: Identifying Back-Up Lamp Switch & Bolt

22. Install back up lamp switch (1) and bolt (2).
INSTALLATION
Microsoft
Fig. 126: Identifying Transmission Bolts (3.7L Engine)

1. Install transmission on engine.

2. On 3.7L engine tighten bolts (1) to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.). Tighten bolts (2) to 67 N.m (50 ft. lbs.). Tighten
bolts (3) to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
Microsoft
Fig. 127: Identifying Transmission Bolts (2.8L Diesel)

3. On 2.8L diesel engine tighten bolts (1) to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.). Tighten bolts (2) to 67 N.m (50 ft. lbs.).
Tighten bolts (3) to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
Microsoft

4. Vehicles with 3.7L engine install exhaust pipe with converters (3).
Microsoft
Fig. 129: Transmission Mount & Crossmember

5. Install transmission crossmember (2) and tighten bolts to 47 N.m (35 ft. lbs.). Install transmission mount
(1) bolts and tighten to 47 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).
Microsoft
Fig. 130: Backup Lamp Switch & Wiring Connector

6. Install backup lamp (2) wiring connector (1).
Microsoft
Fig. 131: Identifying Clutch Slave Cylinder Nuts & Cylinder

7. Install clutch slave cylinder (2) and mounting nuts (1).
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Fig. 132: Identifying Transfer Case & Transmission

8. Install transfer case (1) on transmission (2), if equipped.

9. Install propeller shaft/shafts with reference marks aligned.
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Fig. 133: Fill Plug

10. Remove fill plug (1) and fill transmission to specifications.
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Fig. 134: Removing/Installing Shift Lever Screw, Lever And Inner Boot
11. Install inner shift boot (3), shift lever (2) and lever screw (1).
Fig. 135: Identifying Shift Knob & Boot

12. Install shift boot (2), shift knob (1) and counsel.
13. Connect battery.
SPECIFICATIONS
Microsoft
NSG370
Drain Plug 30 22 -
Fill Plug 30 22 -
Shift Tower Bolts 14 10 -
Housing Bolts 28 21 -
Input Shaft Retainer
9 - 80
Bolts
Bearing Retainer Bolts 10 - 88
Shift Rail Support Bolts 8 - 71
Idler Gear Shaft Bolt 20 15 -
Countershaft Bolt 100 74 -
Transmission Mount to
47 35 -
Transmission Bolts
Transmission Top Four
40 30 -
Bolts
Transmission Side Two
68 50 -
Bolts
Transmission Bottom
54 40 -
Four Bolts
2WD Transmission
175 130 -
Damper Bolts
GEAR RATIO
GEAR RATIO
FIRST 4.46
SECOND 2.61
THIRD 1.72
FOURTH 1.25
FIFTH 1.00
SIXTH 0.84
REVERSE 4.06
SPECIAL TOOLS
NSG370
Microsoft


Fig. 138: Hub Installer W-262

Microsoft
Fig. 139: Bearing Splitter 1130

Fig. 140: Bearing Installer 6448A

Fig. 141: Bearing Remover 7794-A

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Fig. 142: Plug Installer 7829-A

Fig. 143: Hub Installer 8228

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Fig. 144: Build Fixture 9633

Fig. 145: Seal Installer 9635

Microsoft
Fig. 146: Shaft Remover/Installer 9636

Fig. 147: Seal Installer 9638

Microsoft
Fig. 148: Bearing Installer 9643

Fig. 149: Mainshaft Build Fixture 9648

Microsoft
2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Navigation/Telecommunications - Service Information - Nitro
Navigation/Telecommunications - Service Information - Nitro
NAVIGATION/TELECOMMUNICATIONS - SERVICE INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
NAVIGATION/TELECOMMUNICATION
TELECOMMUNICATIONS
The hands-free cellular system on this vehicle uses Bluetooth™ technology to provide wireless communication
between the operator's compatible cellular telephone and the vehicle's on-board receiver.
The system uses voice recognition technology to control operation. The incoming voice is broadcast through the
vehicle's radio speakers, automatically overriding any other audio signals on the front speakers when the hands-
free system is in use. A microphone in the rearview mirror picks up vehicle occupant's voices. If a call is in
progress when the ignition is switched off, the call will be transferred to the hand-held telephone.
The system will communicate with a telephone that is anywhere within the vehicle. However, covering the hand
held phone or the hands-free phone module with a metal object may block the signal. The system will recognize
up to seven telephones, each of which is given a spoken identification by the user during the setup process. The
system includes Spanish and French voice recognition in addition to English.
The hands free module is contained within the radio for premium systems. The hands free module is located in
the right rear of the vehicle behind the rear quarter panel.
NAVIGATION
The navigation system offers several new customer features for expanded usability and convenience with
hands-free voice-activated operation in addition to the touch screen buttons. The navigation system uses the
Bluetooth™ microphone in the rear view mirror. Navigation routes can be based on a variety of formats
including some of the following:
Destination entry by street intersection, city, zip code, street name, street address and number,
state/province/country and phone number
Stop/change route
Save current position
Personal menu, including Guide Me Home (Go Home), Trip Itinerary, List of Saved Locations, Favorite
Points of Interest (from a data base), Manage Personal User and Choose User
Personal Interests including recent routes, address book, Where Am I Now, Emergency (police stations,
Dodge dealerships, fire stations, hospitals and emergency care centers), Trail and geo- coordinates
Route options include shortest, quickest, maximize freeways, minimize freeways, avoid toll roads and
avoid ferries
Navigation can be put into DEMO mode to enhance trip planning
Microsoft
This navigation system will support Traffic Messaging. Traffic Messaging displays voice and pop up warning
messages for medium and high priority situations on the route such as road closures due to accidents/hazardous
situations and it can even generate a traffic detour for a traffic event located on the route.
OPERATION
NAVIGATION/TELECOMMUNICATION
TELECOMMUNICATION
Two buttons on the rearview mirror, identified with ISO icons, control the system: A "phone" button turns the
system on and off; a "voice recognition" (or voice command) button prompts the hands-free system to listen for
a voice command. The system includes the following features:
 Phone book - Stores telephone numbers for later recall by name or other verbal identification, called a
voice tag, and memory location.
 Four memory locations - Home, Work, Mobile, and Pager. A maximum of 32 unique names or voice tags
may be stored at the same time, with a different number in each of the four memory locations.
 Voice tag dialing - Dials the number associated with a voice tag and memory location.
 Digit dialing - Dials the telephone number by recognizing the names of the digits as they are spoken.
 Receiving calls - A voice prompt notifies the user of an incoming call. Pressing the Connect button
accepts or rejects the call.
 Privacy Mode - Switches the call to the handheld telephone and the hands-free system and back again
using the "voice recognition" (or "voice command") button and a voice command, if desired.
NAVIGATION
The navigation system collects data from GPS satellites in orbit around the Earth. This information is sent to the
radio to be processed and provides the user with present location and is used to provide the route planning and
guidance as the vehicle is driven.
HANDS FREE MODULE
REMOVAL
HANDS FREE MODULE
Microsoft
Fig. 1: Removing Hands Free Module


2. Remove the right quarter trim panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove mounting fasteners.
4. Disconnect electrical harness connector.
INSTALLATION
HANDS FREE MODULE
Fig. 2: Installing Hands Free Module

1. Connect electrical harness connector.

2. Position module, and install mounting fasteners.
Microsoft
3. Install quarter trim panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .

Microsoft
2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Overhead Console - Service Information - Nitro
Overhead Console - Service Information - Nitro
OVERHEAD CONSOLE-SERVICE INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
OVERHEAD CONSOLE
Fig. 1: Identifying Overhead Console, Sunroof Switch, Courtesy Lamps & Infrared Temperature Sensor
An overhead console (1) is standard factory-installed equipment on this model. All overhead consoles are
equipped with two reading and courtesy lamps (3). On vehicles equipped with a power sunroof, the sunroof
switch (2) is located between the two reading and courtesy lamps. On vehicles equipped with automatic climate
control an infrared temperature sensor (4) is located on the front edge of the overhead console. The overhead
console is mounted with three snap clips into a molded plastic retainer bracket located above the headliner to
provide secure overhead console attachment.
REMOVAL
OVERHEAD CONSOLE
Microsoft
Fig. 2: Identifying Overhead Console, Sunroof Switch, Courtesy Lamps & Infrared Temperature Sensor

2. Using your fingertips, grasp the sides of the overhead console (1) and pull straight down evenly to
disengage the three snap clips from the mounting bracket.
Fig. 3: Identifying Overhead Console & Wire Harness Connector

3. Lower the overhead console (1) far enough to access the wire harness connector (2).
4. If equipped, disconnect the courtesy lamps, infrared temperature sensor and power sunroof switch
electrical connectors.
5. Remove the overhead console (1) assembly from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Microsoft
OVERHEAD CONSOLE
Fig. 4: Identifying Overhead Console & Wire Harness Connector

1. Position the overhead console (1) in the vehicle near the headliner assembly.
2. If equipped, connect the courtesy lamps, infrared temperature sensor and power sunroof switch electrical
connectors (2).
Fig. 5: Identifying Snap Clips & Overhead Console

3. Grasp the sides of the overhead console (2) and push straight up evenly to engage the three snap clips (1)
into the mounting bracket.
Microsoft
2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Power Locks - Electrical Diagnostics - Nitro
Power Locks - Electrical Diagnostics - Nitro

DTC Description
B1801 DRIVER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW - TIPM
B1803 DRIVER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH INPUT CIRCUIT STUCK LOCK -
DDM
B1806 PASSENGER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW - TIPM
B1808 PASSENGER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT STUCK LOCK -
PDM
B186F ALL DOOR SECONDARY LOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW - TIPM
B1870 ALL DOOR SECONDARY LOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH - TIPM
B1934 DRIVER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT STUCK - TIPM
B1935 PASSENGER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT STUCK - TIPM
B198A ALL DOOR SECONDARY UNLOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW - TIPM
B198B ALL DOOR SECONDARY UNLOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH - TIPM
B1A08 RKE FOB 1 PERFORMANCE
B1A09 RKE FOB 2 PERFORMANCE
B1A0A RKE FOB 3 PERFORMANCE
B1A0B RKE FOB 4 PERFORMANCE
B1A0C RKE FOB 5 PERFORMANCE
B1A0D RKE FOB 6 PERFORMANCE
B1A0E RKE FOB 7 PERFORMANCE
B1A0F RKE FOB 8 PERFORMANCE
B1A10 RKE FOB 1 BATTERY LOW
B1A23 RKE RECEIVER PERFORMANCE
POWER LOCKS - ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS

Microsoft
B1801-DRIVER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW - TIPM
Fig. 1: Driver Door Lock Switch Mux Circuit Schematic


Microsoft
When Monitored:
Continuously
Set Condition:
When the Driver Door Lock Switch Mux circuit is below 0.8 volts for over 10 seconds.
Possible Causes
(G161) DRIVER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(G161) DRIVER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO THE (P37) DOOR LOCK
SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT
WINDOW/DOOR LOCK SWITCH
This test is only applicable for vehicles that do not have "Express Up" Power Windows.
Diagnostic Test
With the scan tool, record and erase DTC's
Operate the Driver Door Lock Switch in all positions several times.
Cycle the ignition from on to off.
Does the scan tool display B1801-DRIVER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) DOOR LOCK SWITCH SHORTED
Microsoft
Fig. 2: Driver Window/Door Lock Switch C2 Connector

With the scan tool, erase DTC's.
Disconnect the Driver Window/Door Lock Switch C2 connector.
Does the scan tool display B1801-DRIVER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW?
No
Replace the Driver Window/Door Lock Switch.

Yes
Go to 3).
3) (G161) DRIVER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Microsoft
Fig. 3: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (G161) Driver Door Lock Switch Mux Circuit
In Driver Window/Door Lock Switch C2 Connector
Measure the resistance between ground and the (G161) Driver Door Lock Switch Mux circuit.
Is the resistance below 1,000.0 ohms?
Yes
Repair the (G161) Driver Door Lock Switch Mux circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 4).
Microsoft
4) (G161) DRIVER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO THE (P37) DOOR
LOCK SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT
Fig. 4: Measuring Resistance Between (G161) Driver Door Lock Switch Mux Circuit And (P37)
Door Lock Switch Return Circuit In Switch C2 Connector
Measure the resistance between the (G161) Driver Door Lock Switch Mux circuit and the (P37) Door
Lock Switch Return circuit in the switch C2 connector.
Yes
Repair the (G161) Driver Door Lock Switch Mux circuit for a short to the (P37) Door Lock Switch
Return circuit.
No
Replace the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) in accordance with service information.
B1803 - DRIVER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH INPUT CIRCUIT STUCK LOCK - DDM
Microsoft
Fig. 5: Lin Bus Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
Microsoft
Continuously whenever the door module is awake.
Set Condition:
When the Lin Bus circuit is out of range for five seconds.
Possible Causes
(D500) LIN BUS CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(D500) LIN BUS CIRCUIT SHORT TO THE (D501) LIN BUS RETURN CIRCUIT
(D500) LIN BUS CIRCUIT OPEN
(D501) LIN BUS RETURN CIRCUIT OPEN
DOOR LOCK SWITCH
DRIVER DOOR MODULE
Diagnostic Test
Operate the Driver Door Lock Switch several times.
Turn the ignition on and wait 30 seconds.
Does the scan tool display B1803 - DRIVER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH INPUT CIRCUIT
STUCK LOCK?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
2) DOOR LOCK SWITCH
Microsoft
Fig. 6: Measuring Voltage Between (D500) Lin Bus Circuit And (D501) Lin Bus Return Circuit
Measure the voltage between the (D500) Lin Bus circuit and the (D501) Lin Bus Return circuit.
Is the voltage between 6.5 and 12.5 volts?
Yes

No
Go to 3).
3) (D501) LIN BUS RETURN CIRCUIT OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 7: Using 12-Volt Test Light Connected To 12-Volts To Check (D501) Lin Bus Return Circuit
Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, check the (D501) Lin Bus Return circuit.
No
Repair the (D501) Lin Bus Return circuit for an open.

Yes
Go to 4).
4) (D500) LIN BUS CIRCUIT OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 8: Measuring Resistance Of (D500) Lin Bus Circuit Between Door Module C5 Connector And
Window/Door Lock Switch Connector
Disconnect the Driver Door Module C5 connector.
Measure the resistance of the (D500) Lin Bus circuit between the Door Module C5 connector and the
Window/Door Lock Switch connector.
No
Repair the (D500) Lin Bus circuit for an open.

Yes
Go to 5).
Microsoft
5) (D500) LIN BUS CIRCUIT SHORT TO THE (D501) LIN BUS RETURN CIRCUIT
Fig. 9: Measuring Resistance Between (D500) Lin Bus Circuit And (D501) Lin Bus Return Circuit
In Window/Door Lock Switch Connector
Measure the resistance between the (D500) Lin Bus circuit and the (D501) Lin Bus Return circuit in the
Window/Door Lock Switch connector.
Yes
Repair the (D500) Lin Bus circuit for a short to the (D501) Lin Bus Return circuit.
No
Replace the Driver Door Module in accordance with service information.

B1806-PASSENGER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW - TIPM
Microsoft
Fig. 10: Passenger Door Lock Switch Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
Microsoft
Continuously
Set Condition:
When the Passenger Door Lock Switch circuit is below 0.8 volts for over 10 seconds.
Possible Causes
(G160) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(G160) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO THE (P37) DOOR LOCK
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display B1806-PASSENGER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT
LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Microsoft
Fig. 11: Passenger Window/Door Lock Switch C2 Connector

Disconnect the Passenger Window/Door Lock Switch C2 connector.
LOW?
No
Replace the Passenger Window/Door Lock Switch.

Yes
Go to 3).
3) (G160) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT PARTIAL SHORT TO
GROUND
Microsoft
Fig. 12: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (G160) Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux
Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (G160) Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux circuit in the
Passenger Window/Door Lock Switch C2 connector.
Yes
Repair the (G160) Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux circuit for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 4).
4) (G160) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO THE (P37) DOOR
Fig. 13: Measuring Resistance Between (G160) Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux Circuit And
(P37) Door Lock Switch Return Circuit In Switch C2 Connector
Measure the resistance between the (G160) Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux circuit and the (P37) Door
Yes
Repair the (G160) Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux circuit for a short to the (P37) Door Lock
Switch Return circuit.
No
B1808-PASSENGER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT STUCK LOCK - PDM
Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft
Continuously.
Set Condition:
When the Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux circuit is between 0.8 and 1.5 volts for over 30 seconds.
Possible Causes
(G160) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(G160) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO THE (Q936) PASSENGER
WINDOW EXPRESS SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT
DOOR LOCK SWITCH SHORT TO GROUND
PASSENGER DOOR MODULE
Diagnostic Test
Operate the Passenger Door Lock Switch in all positions several times.
Turn the ignition on and wait 30 seconds.
STUCK LOCK?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Microsoft
Fig. 15: Passenger Window/Door Lock Switch Connector

Disconnect the Passenger Window/Door Lock Switch connector.
STUCK LOCK?
No

Yes
Go to 3).
3) (G160) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Microsoft
Circuit In Passenger Window/Door Lock Switch Connector
Disconnect the Passenger Door Module C5 connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (G160) Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux circuit in the
Passenger Window/Door Lock Switch connector.
Yes
No
Microsoft
Go to 4).
4) (G160) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO (Q936)
PASSENGER WINDOW EXPRESS SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT
(Q936) Passenger Window Express Switch Return Circuit
Measure the resistance between the (G160) Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux circuit and the (Q936)
Passenger Window Express Switch Return circuit.
Yes
Repair the (G160) Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux circuit for a short to the (Q936) Passenger
Window Express Switch Return circuit.
No
Replace the Passenger Door Module in accordance with service information.

B186F - ALL DOOR SECONDARY LOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW - TIPM
Microsoft
Fig. 18: Secondary Door Lock Relay Control Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
Microsoft
At all times.
Set Condition:
The TIPM detects a low circuit on the Secondary Door Lock Relay Control circuit even though it is not
attempting to lock the doors for more than 5 seconds.
Possible Causes
RELAY OPEN OR SHORTED
(P390) SECONDARY DOOR LOCK RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(P390) SECONDARY DOOR LOCK RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
This test is only for Right Hand Drive (RHD) vehicles.
Diagnostic Test
1) CHECK TROUBLE CODE
Record all trouble codes.
Turn ignition off and remove the key.
Lock all doors and wait 2 minutes.
Does the scan tool display B186F-ALL DOOR SECONDARY LOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Problem is intermittent and not present at this time. Using the wiring diagram/schematic as a guide,
inspect the wiring and connectors and repair as necessary. Ensure the relay is completely plugged
in.
2) CHECK FOR RELAY OPEN OR SHORTED
Microsoft
Fig. 19: Secondary Door Lock Relay

Remove the Secondary Door Lock Relay from the I.P. End Bracket (behind the right kick panel).
Install a substitute relay in place of the Secondary Door Lock Relay.
Does the scan tool display B186F-ALL DOOR SECONDARY LOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Replace the original relay.

Microsoft

3) CHECK THE (P390) SECONDARY DOOR LOCK RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR A
SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 20: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (P390) Secondary Door Lock Relay Control
Circuit In Relay Connector
Remove the Secondary Door Lock Relay.
Measure the resistance between ground and the (P390) Secondary Door Lock Relay Control circuit in the
relay connector.
Yes
Repair the (P390) Secondary Door Lock Relay Control circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK THE (P390) SECONDARY DOOR LOCK RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR AN
OPEN
Microsoft
Fig. 21: Measuring Resistance Of (P390) Secondary Door Lock Relay Control Circuit Between
Relay Connector And TIPM C7 Connector
Measure the resistance of the (P390) Secondary Door Lock Relay Control circuit between the Relay
connector and the TIPM C7 connector.
Yes
Replace the Totally Integrated Power Module in accordance with service information.
No
Repair the (P390) Secondary Door Lock Relay Control circuit for an open.
B1870 - ALL DOOR SECONDARY LOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH - TIPM

Microsoft
Fig. 22: Secondary Door Lock Relay Control Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
Microsoft
At all times.
Set Condition:
The TIPM detects a high circuit on the Secondary Door Lock Relay Control circuit even though it is not
attempting to lock the doors for more than 5 seconds.
Possible Causes
RELAY SHORTED
(P390) SECONDARY DOOR LOCK RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
This test is only for Right Hand Drive (RHD) vehicles.
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display B1870-ALL DOOR SECONDARY LOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
in.
2) CHECK FOR RELAY SHORTED
Microsoft
Fig. 23: Secondary Door Lock Relay

Remove the Secondary Door Lock Relay from the I.P. End Bracket (behind the right kick panel).
Install a substitute relay in place of the Secondary Door Lock Relay.
Does the scan tool display B1870-ALL DOOR SECONDARY LOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 3).
No
Microsoft

3) CHECK THE (P390) SECONDARY DOOR LOCK RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR A
SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 24: Measuring Voltage Between Ground And (P390) Secondary Door Lock Relay Control
Remove the Secondary Door Lock Relay.
Measure the voltage between ground and the (P390) Secondary Door Lock Relay Control circuit in the
relay connector.
Microsoft
Yes
Repair the (P390) Secondary Door Lock Relay Control circuit for a short to voltage.
No
B1934-DRIVER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT STUCK - TIPM
Microsoft
Fig. 25: Driver Door Lock Switch Mux Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
Microsoft
Continuously
Set Condition:
When the Driver Door Lock Switch Mux circuit is between 0.8 and 3.5 volts for over 10 seconds.
Possible Causes
(G161) DRIVER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT PARTIAL SHORT TO GROUND
(G161) DRIVER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO THE (P37) DOOR LOCK
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display B1934-DRIVER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT STUCK?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Microsoft
Fig. 26: Driver Window/Door Lock Switch C2 Connector

Does the scan tool display B1934-DRIVER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT STUCK?
No

Yes
Go to 3).
3) (G161) DRIVER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT PARTIAL SHORT TO GROUND
Microsoft
Fig. 27: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (G161) Driver Door Lock Switch Mux Circuit
In Driver Window/Door Lock Switch C2 Connector
Measure the resistance between ground and the (G161) Driver Door Lock Switch Mux circuit in the
Driver Window/Door Lock Switch C2 connector.
Yes
Repair the (G161) Driver Door Lock Switch Mux circuit for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to 4).
4) (G161) DRIVER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO THE (P37) DOOR
Fig. 28: Measuring Resistance Between (G161) Driver Door Lock Switch Mux Circuit And (P37)
Door Lock Switch Return Circuit In Switch C2 Connector
Measure the resistance between the (G161) Driver Door Lock Switch Mux circuit and the (P37) Door
Yes
Repair the (G161) Driver Door Lock Switch Mux circuit for a short to the (P37) Door Lock Switch
Return circuit.
No
B1935-PASSENGER DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH CIRCUIT STUCK - TIPM

Microsoft

When Monitored:
Microsoft
Continuously
Set Condition:
When the Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux circuit is between 0.8 and 3.5 volts for over 10 seconds.
Possible Causes
(G160) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT PARTIAL SHORT TO GROUND
(G160) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO THE (P37) DOOR LOCK
Diagnostic Test
STUCK?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
Microsoft
Fig. 30: Passenger Window/Door Lock Switch C2 Connector

Disconnect the Passenger Window/Door Lock Switch C2 connector.
STUCK?
No

Yes
Go to 3).
3) (G160) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT PARTIAL SHORT TO
GROUND
Microsoft
Circuit
Measure the resistance between ground and the (G160) Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux circuit.
Yes
No
Go to 4).
Microsoft
4) (G160) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX CIRCUIT SHORT TO THE (P37) DOOR
(P37) Door Lock Switch Return Circuit In Switch C2 Connector
Measure the resistance between the (G160) Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux circuit and the (P37) Door
Yes
Repair the (G160) Passenger Door Lock Switch Mux circuit for a short to the (P37) Door Lock
Switch Return circuit.
No
B198A - ALL DOOR SECONDARY UNLOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW - TIPM
Microsoft
Fig. 33: Secondary Door Unlock Relay Control Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
Microsoft
At all times.
Set Condition:
The TIPM detects a low circuit on the Secondary Door Unlock Relay Control circuit for more than 5
seconds, even though it is not attempting to unlock the doors.
Possible Causes
RELAY OPEN OR SHORTED
(P391) SECONDARY DOOR UNLOCK RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(P391) SECONDARY DOOR UNLOCK RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
NOTE: This test is only for Right Hand Drive vehicles.
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display B198A-ALL DOOR SECONDARY UNLOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT
LOW?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
in.
Microsoft

2) CHECK FOR RELAY OPEN OR SHORTED
Fig. 34: Secondary Door Unlock Relay

Remove the Secondary Door Unlock Relay from the I.P. End Bracket (behind the right kick panel).
Install a substitute relay in place of the Secondary Door Unlock Relay.
Does the scan tool display B198A-ALL DOOR SECONDARY UNLOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT
LOW?
Yes
Microsoft
Go to 3).
No

3) CHECK THE (P391) SECONDARY DOOR UNLOCK RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR A
SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 35: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (P391) Secondary Door Unlock Relay Control
Remove the Secondary Door Unlock Relay.
Microsoft
Measure the resistance between ground and the (P391) Secondary Door Unlock Relay Control circuit in
the relay connector.
Yes
Repair the (P391) Secondary Door Unlock Relay Control circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to 4).
4) CHECK THE (P391) SECONDARY DOOR LOCK RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR AN
OPEN
Fig. 36: Measuring Resistance Of (P391) Secondary Door Unlock Relay Control Circuit Between
Relay Connector And TIPM C7 Connector
Microsoft
Measure the resistance of the (P391) Secondary Door Unlock Relay Control circuit between the Relay
connector and the TIPM C7 connector.
Yes
No
Repair the (P391) Secondary Door Unlock Relay Control circuit for an open.
B198B - ALL DOOR SECONDARY UNLOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH - TIPM
Microsoft
Fig. 37: Secondary Door Unlock Relay Control Circuit Schematic

When Monitored:
Microsoft
At all times.
Set Condition:
The TIPM detects a high circuit on the Secondary Door Unlock Relay Control circuit for more than 5
seconds, even though it is not attempting to unlock the doors.
Possible Causes
RELAY SHORTED
(P391) SECONDARY DOOR UNLOCK RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO VOLTAGE
NOTE: This test is only for Right Hand Drive vehicles.
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display B109B-ALL DOOR SECONDARY UNLOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 2).
No
in.
Microsoft
2) CHECK FOR RELAY SHORTED
Fig. 38: Secondary Door Unlock Relay

Remove the Secondary Door Unlock Relay from the I.P. End Bracket (behind the right kick panel).
Install a substitute relay in place of the Secondary Door Unlock Relay.
Does the scan tool display B198B-ALL DOOR SECONDARY UNLOCK CONTROL CIRCUIT
HIGH?
Yes
Go to 3).
Microsoft
No

3) CHECK THE (P391) SECONDARY DOOR UNLOCK RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR A
SHORT TO VOLTAGE
Fig. 39: Measuring Voltage Between Ground And (P391) Secondary Door Unlock Relay Control
Remove the Secondary Door Unlock Relay.
Microsoft
Measure the voltage between ground and the (P391) Secondary Door Unlock Relay Control circuit in the
relay connector.
Yes
Repair the (P391) Secondary Door Unlock Relay Control circuit for a short to voltage.
No
B1A08-RKE FOB 1 PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Scrambled messages to the wireless control module from the transmitter.
NOTE: The most probable cause for this code to set is if the Wireless Control
Module (WCM) senses over 150 presses from the RKE transmitter, when it
is out of range.
Possible Causes
EXCESSIVE PRESSES FROM TRANSMITTER WHEN OUT OF RANGE
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Put the key in the ignition and turn the ignition on.
Operate the RKE transmitter in all positions several times.
Microsoft
Does the scan tool display B1A08-RKE FOB 1 PERFORMANCE?
Yes
Replace the RKE transmitter and program in accordance with service information.
No
The conditions that caused this code to set are not present at this time. Inform the owner of the most
probable cause for this code to set and therefore cause the RKE system to be inoperative.
B1A09-RKE FOB 2 PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
is out of range.
Possible Causes
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Yes
No
probable cause for this code to set and therefore cause the RKE to be inoperative.
B1A0A-RKE FOB 3 PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
is out of range.
Possible Causes
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Yes
No
B1A0B-RKE FOB 4 PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
is out of range.
Possible Causes
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Yes
No
B1A0C-RKE FOB 5 PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
is out of range.
Possible Causes
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Yes
No
B1A0D-RKE FOB 6 PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
is out of range.
Possible Causes
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Yes
No
B1A0E-RKE FOB 7 PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
is out of range.
Possible Causes
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Yes
No
B1A0F-RKE FOB 8 PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
is out of range.
Possible Causes
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Yes
No
B1A10-RKE FOB 1 BATTERY LOW
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
When the Wireless Control Module senses that the RKE transmitter signal is not as strong as it ought to
be, this code will set.
Possible Causes
LOW BATTERY
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Does the scan tool display B1A10-RKE FOB 1 BATTERY LOW?
Microsoft
Yes
Replace the RKE transmitter battery and retry the system. If the DTC returns, replace and program
the RKE transmitter in accordance with service information.
No
The conditions that caused this code to set are not present at this time.
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
LOW BATTERY
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Yes
Microsoft
No
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
LOW BATTERY
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Yes
No
Microsoft
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
LOW BATTERY
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Yes
No
Microsoft
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
LOW BATTERY
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Yes
No
Microsoft
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
LOW BATTERY
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Yes
No
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Microsoft
Set Condition:
Possible Causes
LOW BATTERY
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Yes
No
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
Microsoft
Possible Causes
LOW BATTERY
RKE TRANSMITTER
Diagnostic Test
Yes
No
B1A23-RKE RECEIVER PERFORMANCE
When Monitored:
Continuously.
Set Condition:
When the Wireless Control Module senses that the RKE signal is jammed, this code will set.
Possible Causes
EXTERNAL ENVIRONMENT
Diagnostic Test
Microsoft
Are there any door lock related trouble codes present or is the RKE inoperative?
Yes
Refer to the symptom list for problems related to Power Locks.
No
The conditions that caused this code to set are not present at this time. This DTC is set when the
vehicle is parked in a location that is affected by external environmental conditions. Suggest to the
customer that they park in a slightly different location from where the RKE was inoperable.
*DRIVER DOOR LOCK INOPERATIVE
Microsoft
Fig. 40: Driver Door Lock Circuit Schematic

Microsoft
Possible Causes
(P930) DRIVER DOOR LOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
(P930) DRIVER DOOR LOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(P910) DRIVER DOOR UNLOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
(P910) DRIVER DOOR UNLOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
DRIVER DOOR LATCH
NOTE: The latch graphics in this test are for a Left Hand Drive (LHD) vehicle. For a
Right Hand Drive (RHD) vehicle, refer to the schematic for the latch connector
cavities.
Diagnostic Test
1) DRIVER DOOR LATCH INOPERATIVE
Fig. 41: Connecting Test Light Between (P930) Driver Door Lock Driver Circuit And (P910) Driver
Door Unlock Driver Circuit
Disconnect the Driver Door Latch connector.
Connect a test light between the (P930) Driver Door Lock Driver circuit and the (P910) Driver Door
Unlock Driver circuit.
Close the front doors or trip the door latches to the closed position.
Operate the door locks in both positions and observe the test light.
Microsoft
Does the test light illuminate brightly for approximately 300 ms. when the door locks are actuated?
Yes
Replace the Driver Door Latch.

No
Go to step 2).
2) CHECK (P910) DRIVER DOOR UNLOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
Fig. 42: Measuring Resistance Of (P910) Driver Door Unlock Driver Circuit Between Latch
Connector And TIPM C6 Connector
Microsoft
Measure the resistance of the (P910) Driver Door Unlock Driver circuit between the Latch connector and
the TIPM C6 connector.
No
Repair the (P910) Driver Door Unlock Driver circuit for an open.
Yes
Go to step 3).
3) CHECK (P910) DRIVER DOOR UNLOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 43: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (P910) Driver Door Unlock Driver Circuit
Measure the resistance between Ground and the (P910) Driver Door Unlock Driver circuit.
Yes
Repair the (P910) Driver Door Unlock Driver circuit for a short to ground.
No
Microsoft
Go to step 4).
4) CHECK (P930) DRIVER DOOR LOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
Fig. 44: Measuring Resistance Of (P930) Driver Door Lock Driver Circuit Between TIPM C6
Connector And Driver Door Latch Connector
Measure the resistance of the (P930) Driver Door Lock Driver circuit between the TIPM C6 connector
and the Driver Door Latch connector.
Yes
Go to step 5).
No
Repair the (P930) Driver Door Lock Driver circuit for an open.
Microsoft

5) CHECK (P930) DRIVER DOOR LOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 45: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (P930) Driver Door Lock Driver Circuit
Measure the resistance between Ground and the (P930) Driver Door Lock Driver circuit.
Yes
Repair the (P930) Driver Door Lock Driver circuit for a short to ground.
No
*LIFTGATE LOCK INOPERATIVE
Microsoft
Fig. 46: Liftgate Lock Circuit Schematic

Microsoft
Possible Causes
(P304) TAILGATE (LIFTGATE) LOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
(P304) TAILGATE (LIFTGATE) LOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(P306) TAILGATE (LIFTGATE) UNLOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
(P306) TAILGATE (LIFTGATE) UNLOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
TAILGATE LATCH
Diagnostic Test
1) LIFTGATE LATCH INOPERATIVE
Fig. 47: Connecting Test Light Between (P304) Tailgate Lock Driver Circuit And (P406) Tailgate
Unlock Driver Circuit
Disconnect the Tailgate Latch connector.
Connect a test light between the (P304) Tailgate Lock Driver circuit and the (P406) Tailgate Unlock
Driver circuit.
Close the front doors or trip the front door latches to the closed position.
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Yes
Replace the Liftgate Latch.

No
Go to step 2).
2) (P306) TAILGATE UNLOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
Fig. 48: Measuring Resistance Of (P306) Tailgate Unlock Driver Circuit Between Latch Connector
And TIPM C5 Connector
Measure the resistance of the (P306) Tailgate Unlock Driver circuit between the Latch connector and the
TIPM C5 connector.
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No
Repair the (P306) Tailgate Unlock Driver circuit for an open.

Yes
Go to step 3).
3) (P306) TAILGATE UNLOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 49: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (P306) Tailgate Unlock Driver Circuit
Measure the resistance between Ground and the (P306) Tailgate Unlock Driver circuit.
Yes
Repair the (P306) Tailgate Unlock Driver circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to step 4).
4) (P304) TAILGATE LOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
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Fig. 50: Measuring Resistance Of (P304) Tailgate Lock Driver Circuit Between TIPM C6
Connector And Tailgate Latch Connector
Measure the resistance of the (P304) Tailgate Lock Driver circuit between the TIPM C6 connector and
the Tailgate Latch connector.
Yes
Go to step 5).
No
Repair the (P304) Tailgate Lock Driver circuit for an open.

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5) (P304) TAILGATE DOOR LOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 51: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And (P304) Tailgate Lock Driver Circuit
Measure the resistance between Ground and the (P304) Tailgate Lock Driver circuit.
Yes
Repair the (P304) Tailgate Lock Driver circuit for a short to ground.
No
*ONE PASSENGER DOOR LOCK INOPERATIVE
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Fig. 52: Passenger Door Lock Circuit Schematic

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Possible Causes
(P32), (P38) OR (P920) DOOR LOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
(P32, (P38) OR (P920) DOOR LOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(P5), (P34) OR (P940) DOOR UNLOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
(P5), (P34) OR (P940) DOOR UNLOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
DOOR LATCH
Diagnostic Test
1) PASSENGER DOOR LATCH INOPERATIVE
NOTE: Graphics in this test show Left Rear Latch but the other 2 passenger
latches are similar.
NOTE: The latch graphics in this test are for a Left Hand Drive (LHD) vehicle. For
a Right Hand Drive (RHD) vehicle, refer to the schematic for the latch
connector cavities.
Fig. 53: Connecting Test Light Between Door Lock Driver Circuit And Door Unlock Driver Circuit
Disconnect the inoperative Passenger Door latch connector.
Connect a test light between the Door Lock Driver circuit and the Door Unlock Driver circuit.
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Close the front doors or trip the door latches to the closed position.
Yes
Replace the Passenger Door Latch Assembly.

No
Go to step 2).
2) PASSENGER DOOR UNLOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
Fig. 54: Measuring Resistance Of Appropriate Door Unlock Driver Circuit Between Latch
Connector And TIPM C5 Connector
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Measure the resistance of the appropriate Door Unlock Driver circuit between the Latch connector and
the TIPM C5 connector.
No
Using the wiring diagram/schematic as a guide, measure the circuit from the in-line door harness
connector to the latch connector to determine if the wire is open in the door harness or the
instrument panel harness. Repair the appropriate Door Unlock Driver circuit for an open.
Yes
Go to step 3).
3) PASSENGER DOOR UNLOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 55: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And Appropriate Door Unlock Driver Circuit
Measure the resistance between Ground and the appropriate Door Unlock Driver circuit.
Yes
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connector to ground to determine if the wire is shorted in the door harness or the instrument panel
harness. Repair the appropriate Door Unlock Driver circuit for a short to ground.
No
Go to step 4).
4) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
Fig. 56: Measuring Resistance Of Appropriate Door Lock Driver Circuit Between TIPM C6
Connector And Appropriate Door Latch Connector
Measure the resistance of the appropriate Door Lock Driver circuit between the TIPM C6 connector and
the appropriate Door Latch connector.
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Yes
Go to step 5).
No
connector to the latch connector to determine if the wire is open in the door harness or the
instrument panel harness. Repair the appropriate Door Lock Driver circuit for an open.
5) PASSENGER DOOR LOCK DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Fig. 57: Measuring Resistance Between Ground And Appropriate Door Lock Driver Circuit
Measure the resistance between Ground and the appropriate Door Lock Driver circuit.
Yes
connector to ground to determine if the wire is shorted in the door harness or the instrument panel
harness. Repair the appropriate Door Lock Driver circuit for a short to ground.
No
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Microsoft
2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Power Locks - Service Information - Nitro
Power Locks - Service Information - Nitro
POWER LOCKS - SERVICE INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
POWER LOCKS
POWER LOCKS
The power lock system allows all of the doors and the tailgate to be locked or unlocked electrically by operating
a switch on either front door trim panel. The power lock system receives non-switched battery current through a
fuse in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), so that the power locks remain operational, regardless of
the ignition switch position.
The TIPM locks the doors and tailgate automatically when the vehicle is driven beyond the speed of 25.7 Km/h
(15 mph), all doors are closed and the accelerator pedal is depressed. The rolling door lock feature can be
disabled if desired.
This vehicle also offers several customer programmable features, which allows the selection of several optional
electronic features to suit individual preferences.
The power lock system for this vehicle can also be operated remotely using the available Remote Keyless Entry
(RKE) system radio frequency transmitters, if equipped.
Certain functions and features of the power lock system rely upon resources shared with other electronic
modules in the vehicle over the Controlled Area Network (CAN). For proper diagnosis of these electronic
modules or of the CAN, the use of a scan tool and the appropriate diagnostic information are required.
REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY
The RKE system allows the use of a remote battery-powered radio transmitter to signal the TIPM to actuate the
power lock system. The RKE receiver operates on non-switched battery current through a fuse in the TIPM, so
that the system remains operational, regardless of the ignition switch position.
Certain RKE transmitters are also equipped with a Panic button. If the Panic button on the RKE transmitter is
depressed, the horn will sound and the exterior lights will flash on the vehicle for about three minutes, or until
the Panic button is depressed a second time. A vehicle speed of about 25.7 Km/h (15 mph) will also cancel the
panic event.
The RKE system can also perform other functions on this vehicle. If the vehicle is equipped with the optional
Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS), the RKE transmitter will arm the VTSS when the Lock button is
depressed, and disarm the VTSS when the Unlock button is depressed.
The RKE system includes two transmitters when the vehicle is shipped from the factory, but the system can
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retain the vehicle access codes of up to four transmitters. The transmitter codes are retained in the RKE receiver
memory, even if the battery is disconnected. If an RKE transmitter is faulty or lost, new transmitter vehicle
access codes can be programmed into the system using a scan tool.
This vehicle also offers several customer programmable features, which allows the selection of several optional
electronic features to suit individual preferences. Customer programmable feature options affecting the RKE
system include:
 Remote Unlock Sequence - Allows the option of having only the driver side front door unlock when the
RKE transmitter Unlock button is depressed the first time. The remaining doors and the tailgate unlock
when the button is depressed a second time within 5 seconds of the first unlock press. Another option is
having all doors and the tailgate unlock upon the first depression of the RKE transmitter Unlock button.
 Sound Horn on Lock - Allows the option of having the horn sound a short chirp as an audible
verification that the RKE system received a valid Lock request from the RKE transmitter, or having no
audible verification. This feature is not available on export vehicles.
 Flash Lights with Lock and Unlock - Allows the option of having the lights flash as an optical
verification that the RKE system received a valid Lock request or Unlock request from the RKE
transmitter, or having no optical verification.
 Programming Additional Transmitters - Allows up to four transmitter vehicle access codes to be
stored in the receiver memory. This feature is not available on export vehicles.
Certain functions and features of the RKE system rely upon resources shared with other electronic modules in
the vehicle over the Controlled Area Network (CAN). For diagnosis of these electronic modules or of the CAN,
the use of a scan tool and the appropriate diagnostic information are required.
COMBINATION FLASHER
This flasher can be energized by the TIPM to flash all of the park/turn signal lamps as an optical alert for the
RKE panic function and if the Flash Lights with Lock/Unlock programmable feature is enabled, as an optical
verification for the RKE lock/unlock event.
LOW BEAM HEADLAMP RELAY
This relay can be energized by the TIPM to flash the headlamp low beams as an optical alert for the RKE panic
function.
OPERATION
POWER LOCKS
POWER LOCKS
The Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) locks or unlocks the doors when an actuation input signal from a
door lock switch or Remote Keyless Entry Module (RKE) is received. The TIPM turns on the output drivers
and provides a voltage level to the door lock motor for a specified time. All passenger doors can be locked or
unlocked using a mechanical button mounted on the door trim panel. The front passenger doors and tailgate can
be locked or unlocked by using the key cylinder (tailgate cylinder does not lock/unlock vehicle. It only unlocks
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the tailgate). The tailgate will lock and can not be unlocked if the rear wiper switch is activated (this prevents
the wiper from operating when the tailgate is ajar). The tailgate will also lock if battery power is lost and then
restored.
AUTOMATIC DOOR LOCKS
When the automatic door locks are ENABLED the door locks will lock when the vehicle is moving at about
25.7 Km/h (15 mph), all doors are closed and the accelerator pedal is depressed. This feature can be switched
ON or OFF as desired. When the system is DISABLED the door locks will operate normally, but will not lock
automatically when the vehicle is rolling. Once the automatic door locks have been actuated, they will not try to
lock the doors again until a door is opened.
DOOR LOCK INHIBIT
If the key is in the ignition, in any position, and either front door is ajar, the doors can not be locked, but the
unlock function still operates. Pressing the RKE lock/unlock button under these conditions will result in a
normal lock/unlock activation.
After the key is removed from the Ignition Switch, or the doors are closed, the power door locks will operate
normally.
DOOR LOCK CIRCUIT PROTECTION
The TIPM controls the door lock relays. If the door lock switch is actuated continuously for more than five
seconds the TIPM will turn the output driver OFF (the TIPM would consider the switch stuck). Each lock motor
is protected with a Positive Temperature Coefficient device that prevents motor burn out.
REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY
LOCK : Pressing the LOCK button locks all doors, sounds horn (chirp) if enabled, and arms the Vehicle
Theft Security System, if enabled. The chirp verifies that the RKE receiver has sent a message to the
TIPM for door lock operation. If a door has not been closed before pressing the LOCK button, the vehicle
may not be secured and the VTSS (if equipped) will not arm until the door is closed.
UNLOCK : Pressing the UNLOCK button once will unlock the driver's door and activate the illuminated
entry system and disarm Vehicle Theft Security System, if equipped. Pressing the UNLOCK button twice
within five seconds will unlock all doors.
PANIC : If equipped, pressing the PANIC button sounds the horns at half second intervals, flashes the
exterior lamps, and turns ON the interior lamps. The panic alarm will remain on for three minutes, or
until the PANIC button is actuated again or the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position.
The Remote Keyless Entry Module is capable of retaining the transmitter Vehicle Access Code(s) in its memory
even after vehicle power has been interrupted.
POWER LOCKS
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The Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) enters a reduced power mode after the key is turned OFF.
All diagnosis and testing of the power lock system must be done with the key in the ON position unless
otherwise stated.
The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the power lock system requires the use of a
scan tool and the proper Diagnostic article. The scan tool can provide confirmation that the CAN data
bus is functional, that all of the electronic modules are sending and receiving the proper messages on the
CAN data bus, and that the power lock motors are being sent the proper hard wired outputs by the
relays for them to perform their power lock system functions.
Following are tests that will help to diagnose the hard wired components and circuits of the power lock system.
However, these tests may not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of this system. In order to obtain conclusive
testing of the power lock system, the Controlled Area Network (CAN) and all of the electronic modules that
provide inputs to, or receive outputs from the power lock system components must be checked.
The TIPM will set Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) for the power lock system.
Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and
connector repair procedures, details of wire harness routing and retention, connector pin-out information and
location views for the various wire harness connectors, splices and grounds.
PRELIMINARY DIAGNOSIS
As a preliminary diagnosis for the power lock system, note the system operation while you actuate both the
Lock and Unlock functions with the power lock switches and with the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)
transmitter. Then, proceed as follows:
If the entire power lock system fails to function with either the power lock switches or the RKE
transmitter, check the fused B(+) fuse in the Junction Block (JB).
If the power lock system functions with both power lock switches, but not with the RKE transmitter,
proceed to diagnosis of the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) system. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
If the driver side power lock switch operates only the driver side front door power lock motor, but all
other power lock motors operate with the passenger side power lock switch or the RKE transmitter, use a
scan tool and the appropriate diagnostic information to diagnose the Controlled Area Network (CAN).
If only one power lock motor fails to operate with both power lock switches and the RKE transmitter,
proceed to diagnosis of the power lock motor. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
SPECIAL TOOLS
SPECIAL TOOLS
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Fig. 1: Testing Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter

DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH
REMOVAL
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Fig. 2: Door Lock/Unlock Switch


2. Gently pry the switch from the door trim panel.
3. Disconnect electrical harness connector from switch.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 3: Door Lock/Unlock Switch

1. Connect the electrical harness connector to the switch.

2. Press the switch into place.
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DOOR LOCK MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
DOOR LOCK MOTOR
The lock mechanisms are actuated by a reversible electric motor mounted within each door and tailgate. The
power lock motors are integral to the door latch units.
The power lock motors cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if faulty or damaged, the door latch unit must be
replaced.
OPERATION
DOOR LOCK MOTOR
The door lock motors are controlled by relays. A positive and negative battery connection to the two motor
terminals will cause the motor to move in one direction. Reversing the current will cause the motor to move in
the opposite direction.
DOOR LOCK MOTOR
The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the power lock system requires the use of a scan
tool and the proper Diagnostic article. Refer to the appropriate wiring information.
REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY MODULE
REMOVAL
Refer to REMOVAL .
INSTALLATION
Refer to INSTALLATION .
REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY TRANSMITTER
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Fig. 4: Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter

Using special tool 9001, first test to ensure that the transmitter is functioning. Typical testing distance is 2.5
centimeters (1 inch) for Asian transmitters and 30.5 centimeters (12 inches) for all others. To test, position the
transmitter as shown. Press any transmitter button, then test each button individually. The tool will beep if a
radio signal strength that lights five or more LED's is detected. Repeat this test three times. If transmitter fails
any of the test refer to the Diagnostic article.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
RKE TRANSMITTER CUSTOMER PREFERENCES
AUTOMATIC (ROLLING) LOCKS
The rolling locks feature can be toggled ON/OFF by using the scan tool only.
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HORN CHIRP DISABLING/ENABLING
The horn chirp can be toggled using the scan tool or by using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter.
To DISABLE (cancel) the horn chirp feature, press and hold the transmitter LOCK button for four to ten
seconds. While pressing the LOCK button in, press the UNLOCK button. Release both buttons.
To ENABLE the horn chirp feature, repeat the above procedure.
OPTICAL CHIRP (FLASH) DISABLING/ENABLING
The optical chirp can be toggled using the scan tool or by using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter.
To DISABLE (cancel) the optical chirp feature, press and hold the transmitter LOCK button for four to ten
seconds. While pressing the LOCK button in, press the TAILGATE RELEASE button. Release both buttons.
To ENABLE the optical chirp feature, repeat the above procedure.
TAIL GATE RELEASE DELAY
Press the UNLOCK button for four to ten seconds. While pressing the UNLOCK button, press the TAIL GATE
RELEASE button. Release both buttons.
This will toggle between PRESS AND HOLD and PRESS (no delay).
UNLOCK SEQUENCE
The unlock sequence can be toggled using the scan tool or by using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)
transmitter.
Press and hold the transmitter UNLOCK button for four to ten seconds. While pressing the UNLOCK button in,
press the LOCK button. Release both buttons.
This will toggle between Driver door first and Unlock all doors function.
RKE TRANSMITTER BATTERIES
The Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter case snaps open and shut for battery access. To replace the RKE
transmitter batteries:
1. Using a thin coin, gently pry at the notch in the center seam of the RKE transmitter case halves near the
key ring until the two halves unsnap.
2. Lift the back half of the transmitter case off of the RKE transmitter.
3. Remove the two batteries from the RKE transmitter.
4. Replace the two batteries with new Panasonic 2016 (if equipped with one battery, use 2032), or
equivalent. Be certain that the batteries are installed with their polarity correctly oriented.
5. Align the two RKE transmitter case halves with each other, and squeeze them firmly and evenly together
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until they snap back into place.
RKE TRANSMITTER PROGRAMING
New Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitters can be programed using the scan tool and the proper Diagnostic
article, if no functioning transmitter is available. The scan tool can provide confirmation that the Controlled
Area Network (CAN) is functional, and that all of the electronic modules are sending and receiving the proper
messages on the CAN data bus.
The following procedure can be used as long as one functioning transmitter is available:
1. Turn ignition to the RUN position (allow ignition chimes to stop).

2. Using any original (working) transmitter, press the UNLOCK button for 4 to 10 seconds.
3. Within the specified 4 to 10 seconds, continue pressing the UNLOCK button and press the PANIC button
for 1 second, and release both buttons (a chime will sound to indicate that the transmitter programming
mode has been entered - allow 3 seconds for chime to sound).
4. Press LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously for 1 second and release.
5. Press and release any button on the same transmitter and a chime will sound after successfully
programming the transmitter.
6. Repeat steps 4 to 6 to program additional transmitters.
7. Turn ignition to the OFF position. Transmitter programming mode will discontinue after 60 seconds. All
transmitter programming must be completed within time specified.
SPECIFICATIONS
RANGE
Normal operation range is up to a distance of 3 to 7 meters (10 to 23 ft.) of the vehicle. Range may be better or
worse depending on the environment around the vehicle.
TAILGATE CYLINDER LOCK SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The tailgate cylinder lock switch is integral to the key lock cylinder inside the tailgate. The tailgate cylinder
lock switch is a normally-open momentary switch that is hard wired directly to the Totally Integrated Power
Module (TIPM), and closes a path to ground through an internal resistor when the lock cylinder is rotated to the
unlock or lock position.
The tailgate cylinder lock switch cannot be adjusted or repaired.
OPERATION
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The tailgate cylinder lock switch is actuated when the key is inserted in the lock cylinder and turned to the
unlock or lock position. The tailgate cylinder lock switch closes a path to ground through an internal resistor for
the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) when the tailgate key lock cylinder is in the lock or unlock
position, and opens the ground path when the lock cylinder is in the neutral position. The TIPM reads the switch
status, then sends the proper switch status messages to other electronic modules over the Controlled Area
Network (CAN). The tailgate cylinder lock switch unlock status message is used by the TIPM as an input for
Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) operation and to tell the TIPM to lock or unlock the tailgate. There is no
mechanical linkage between the tailgate key cylinder and the latches.

2. Remove tailgate trim panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect tailgate cylinder lock switch harness connector.
4. Using a ohmmeter, test for resistances as shown in the Tailgate Cylinder Lock Switch Table.
TAILGATE CYLINDER LOCK SWITCH TABLE

SWITCH POSITION RESISTANCE
NEUTRAL 0 OHMS
LOCK (CLOCKWISE) 2 K OHMS ± 10 %
UNLOCK (COUNTER- 470 OHMS ± 10 %
CLOCKWISE)
5. If switch resistance is not correct, replace switch.
REMOVAL
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Fig. 5: Removing/Installing Lock Cylinder Switch -Typical


2. Remove the tailgate trim panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the retainer clip from the pin on the back of the door lock cylinder (3).
4. Remove the washer from the pin on the back of the door lock cylinder.
5. Remove the door cylinder lock switch (4) from the back of the lock cylinder.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 6: Removing/Installing Lock Cylinder Switch -Typical

1. Position the tailgate cylinder lock switch (4) onto the back of the lock cylinder (3) with the wire harness
oriented toward the bottom.
2. Position the washer over the switch.
3. Install the retainer (2) clip onto the pin on the back of the tailgate lock cylinder. Be certain that the center
tab of the retainer is engaged in the retention hole on the lock lever.
4. Install the trim panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
Microsoft
2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Power Mirrors - Service Information - Nitro
Power Mirrors - Service Information - Nitro
POWER MIRRORS - SERVICE INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
POWER MIRRORS
Fig. 1: Power Operated Sideview Mirrors Switch

The power operated sideview mirrors allow the driver to adjust both outside mirrors electrically from the drivers
seat by operating a switch on the driver side front door trim panel.
AUTOMATIC DAY/NIGHT MIRROR
DESCRIPTION
AUTOMATIC DAY/NIGHT MIRROR SYSTEM
The automatic dimming inside day/night rear view mirror system is a completely self-contained unit that
replaces the standard equipment inside rear view mirror. This system will automatically change the reflectance
of the inside rear view mirror to protect the driver from the unwanted headlight glare of trailing vehicles while
driving at night. The automatic day/night inside mirror receives ignition switched battery current through a fuse
in the TIPM, and will only operate when the ignition switch is in the On position.
The automatic day/night mirror sensitivity cannot be repaired or adjusted. If any component of this unit is
inoperative or damaged, the entire automatic day/night inside rear view mirror unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
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AUTOMATIC DAY/NIGHT MIRROR SYSTEM
The automatic day/night mirror switch allows the driver a manual control of whether the automatic dimming
feature is operational. This switch is a momentary rocker-type switch located on the lower rear-facing surface of
the mirror housing. When Auto is selected, a Light-Emitting Diode (LED) on the mirror housing just to the right
of the switch illuminates to indicate that automatic day/night mirror is turned on. When Off is selected, the LED
is turned off. The mirror also senses the backup lamp circuit, and will automatically disable its self-dimming
feature whenever the transmission gear selector is in the Reverse position.
A thin layer of electrochromatic material between two pieces of conductive glass make up the face of the
mirror. Two photocell sensors are used to monitor light levels and adjust the reflectance of the mirror. The
ambient photocell sensor faces forward, to detect the outside light levels. The headlamp sensor is located on the
mirror housing just to the left of the switch and facing rearward, to detect the light level received at the rear
window side of the mirror. When the difference between the two light levels becomes too great (the light level
received at the rear of the mirror is much higher than that at the front of the mirror), the mirror begins to darken.
AUTOMATIC DAY/NIGHT MIRROR
1. Check the fused ignition switch output (run/start) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to step 2. If not
OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch output
(run/start) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to step 3. If not OK, repair the open fused ignition switch
output (run/start) circuit to the ignition switch as required.
3. Disconnect the overhead wire harness connector from the automatic day/night mirror connector
receptacle. Check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch output (run/start) circuit cavity of the
overhead wire harness connector for the automatic day/night mirror. If OK, go to step 4. If not OK, repair
the open fused ignition switch output (run/start) circuit to the fuse in the junction block as required.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Check for continuity between the ground circuit cavity of the
overhead wire harness connector for the automatic day/night mirror and a good ground. There should be
continuity. If OK, go to step 5. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground as required.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Set the parking brake. Place the transmission gear selector
lever in the Reverse position. Check for battery voltage at the backup lamp switch output circuit cavity of
the overhead wire harness connector for the automatic day/night mirror. If OK, reconnect the overhead
wire harness connector to the automatic day/night mirror connector receptacle and go to step 6. If not OK,
repair the open backup lamp switch output circuit as required.
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Fig. 2: Automatic Day/Night Mirror

6. Place the transmission gear selector lever in the Neutral position. Place the automatic day/night mirror
switch (2) in the Auto (LED (1) next to the switch is lighted) position. Cover the forward facing ambient
photocell sensor to keep out any ambient light.
NOTE: The ambient photocell sensor must be covered completely, so that no light
reaches the sensor. Use a finger pressed tightly against the sensor, or
cover the sensor completely with electrical tape.
7. Shine a light into the rearward facing headlamp photocell sensor (3). The automatic day/night mirror
should darken. If OK, go to step 8. If not OK, replace the faulty automatic day/night mirror unit.
8. With the mirror darkened, place the transmission gear selector lever in the Reverse position. The
automatic day/night mirror should return to its normal reflectance. If not OK, replace the faulty automatic
day/night mirror unit.
SWITCH-MIRROR
REMOVAL
POWER MIRROR SWITCH
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Fig. 3: Power Mirror Switch


2. Gently pry the switch from the door trim panel.
3. Disconnect electrical harness connector from switch.
INSTALLATION
POWER MIRROR SWITCH
Fig. 4: Power Mirror Switch

1. Connect the electrical harness connector to the switch.

2. Press the switch into place.
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SIDEVIEW MIRROR
REMOVAL
POWER MIRROR
1. For removal procedures, refer to REMOVAL .
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2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Power Seats - Service Information - Nitro
Power Seats - Service Information - Nitro
POWER SEATS - SERVICE INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
POWER SEAT SYSTEM
Fig. 1: Identifying Power Seat Switch, Seat Cushion & Seat Cushion Side Shield
The power seat system allows the driver to electrically adjust the seating position using the power seat switch
assembly (2) located on the outboard seat cushion side shield (3).
Fig. 2: Identifying Upper Power Seat Adjuster & Lower Power Seat Adjuster
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A driver side six-way power seat is available on this vehicle. The power seat includes a six-way adjustable seat
cushion track. The six-way power seat can be adjusted back up, back down, front up, front down, forward and
rearward. The power seat system is also available with the heated seat option, refer to DESCRIPTION for
additional information on the heated seats.
The power seat adjuster is made up of the upper and lower power seat adjuster assemblies. The upper power
seat adjuster (1) contains two reversible motors that are connected to worm-drive gearboxes that move the seat
adjusters through screw-type drive units. These motors control the front seat tilt, rear seat tilt and when
activated together the height of the driver seat. The lower power seat adjuster (2) contains one reversible motor
that is connected to a worm-drive gearbox that moves the seat adjuster through a screw-type drive unit. This
motor is responsible for the fore and aft movement of the driver seat. Each motor contains a self-resetting
circuit breaker to protect it from overload. Consecutive or frequent resetting of the circuit breakers may
damaged the motors.
Fig. 3: Front/Rear Tilt Motor, Reversible Motor & Power Seat Track Unit
The power seat system for this vehicle includes the following major components:
The Front Tilt Motor (2) is located on the upper power seat adjuster assembly and controls the up and down
movement of the seat front only. The front tilt motor is part of the power seat track unit (1) and must be
replaced as an assembly. See REMOVAL.
The Rear Tilt Motor (3) is located on the upper power seat adjuster assembly and controls the up and down
movement of the seat rear only. The front tilt motor is part of the power seat track unit (1) and must be replaced
as an assembly. See REMOVAL.
The Lower Power Seat Adjuster contains one reversible motor (4) that is connected to a worm-drive gearbox
that moves the seat adjuster through a screw-type drive unit. This motor is responsible for the fore and aft
movement of the driver seat. The motor is part of the power seat track unit (1) and must be replaced as an
assembly, See REMOVAL.
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Fig. 4: Power Seat Switch

Power Seat Switch - Vehicles may be equipped with a driver side six-way power seat switch. The power seat
switch has a paddle-type lever mounted on the outboard seat side shield. Movement of the seat cushion mimics
the action of the switch paddle.
OPERATION
POWER SEAT SYSTEM
The power seat system receives battery current through a fuse in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM)
so that the power seats remain operational, regardless of the ignition switch position.
When a power seat switch is actuated, a battery feed and a ground path are applied through the power seat
switch contacts to the appropriate motor or motors. The motor and drive unit operate to move the seat in the
selected direction until the switch is released, or until the travel limit of the power seat track is reached. When
the switch is moved in the opposite direction, the battery feed and ground path to the motor is reversed through
the switch contacts. This causes the motor to run in the opposite direction.
POWER SEAT SYSTEM
Operate the power seat switch and move the seat in all directions. The seat should move in each of the selected
directions.
If the power seat adjuster fails to operate in more than one direction, proceed as follows:
1. Inspect the power seat track adjuster motors to ensure the electrical connectors are fully seated to the
motors. If OK, go to step 2. If not OK, connect the electrical connector to the fully seated position.
2. Check the power seat fuse in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). If OK, go to step 3. If not
OK, replace the inoperative fuse.
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3. Remove the power seat switch from the seat cushion side shield. See REMOVAL. Check for battery
voltage at the fused B(+) circuit cavity of the power seat switch wire harness connector. If OK, go to step
4. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the TIPM as required.
4. Check for continuity between the ground circuit cavity of the power seat switch wire harness connector
and a good ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to step 5. If not OK, repair the open circuit to
ground as required.
5. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING. If the switch tests OK, check the wire harness between the power
seat switch and the motor. If the circuits check OK, replace the faulty power seat track assembly. If the
circuits are not OK, repair the wire harness as required.
SWITCH - POWER SEAT
DESCRIPTION
SEAT SWITCH
Fig. 5: Identifying Power Seat Switch, Seat Cushion & Seat Cushion Side Shield
The driver power seat can be adjusted in six different ways using the power seat switch. The power seat switch
(2) is located on the lower outboard side of the seat cushion (1) on the seat cushion side shield (3). The power
seat system incorporates a seat switch with a seat cushion control paddle.
The individual components in the power seat switch assembly cannot be repaired. If the switch is damaged or
inoperative, the entire power seat switch must be replaced.
OPERATION
SEAT SWITCH
When a power seat switch is actuated, a battery feed and a ground path are applied through the switch contacts
to the power seat track adjuster motor. The selected adjuster motor operates to move the seat through its drive
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unit in the selected direction until the switch is released, or until the travel limit of the adjuster is reached. When
the switch is moved in the opposite direction, the battery feed and ground path to the motor are reversed through
the switch contacts. This causes the adjuster motor to run in the opposite direction.
No power seat switch should be held applied in any direction after the adjuster has reached its travel limit. The
power seat adjuster motors each contain a self-resetting circuit breaker to protect them from overload. However,
consecutive or frequent resetting of the circuit breaker may result in motor damage.
SWITCH-SEAT
Fig. 6: Identifying Power Seat Switch


2. Remove the power seat switch from the power seat. See REMOVAL.
3. Use an ohmmeter to test the continuity of the power seat switch. Refer to POWER SEAT SWITCH
CONTINUITY. If not OK, replace the faulty power seat switch. If switch tests OK. See DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING.
POWER SEAT SWITCH CONTINUITY

SWITCH POSITION CONTINUITY BETWEEN
OFF 7-1, 7-3, 7-4, 7-5, 7-8, 7-9, 7-10, 7-11
HORIZONTAL FORWARD 6-8, 7-1, 7-3, 7-4, 7-5, 7-9, 7-10, 7-11
HORIZONTAL REARWARD 6-4, 7-1, 7-3, 7-5, 7-8, 7-9, 7-10, 7-11
FRONT TILT DOWN 6-5, 7-1, 7-3, 7-4, 7-8, 7-9, 7-10, 7-11
FRONT TILT UP 6-9, 7-1, 7-3, 7-4, 7-5, 7-8, 7-10, 7-11
REAR TILT DOWN 6-10, 7-1, 7-3, 7-4, 7-5, 7-8, 7-9, 7-11
REAR TILT UP 6-11, 7-1, 7-3, 7-4, 7-5, 7-8, 7-9, 7-10
REMOVAL
SEAT SWITCH
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Fig. 7: Identifying Mounting Tabs, Power Seat Switch, Seat Cushion Side Shield & Power Seat Switch
Electrical Harness Connector

2. Remove the outboard seat cushion side shield (3).
3. Disconnect the power seat switch electrical harness connector (4).
4. Using a small flat bladed tool, gently release the four mounting tabs (1) that secure the power seat switch
(2) and separate switch from side shield (3).
INSTALLATION
SEAT SWITCH
Fig. 8: Identifying Mounting Tabs, Power Seat Switch, Seat Cushion Side Shield & Power Seat Switch
Electrical Connector
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1. Position the power seat switch (2) onto the seat cushion side shield (3). Gently apply pressure to the
switch until the four mounting tabs (1) are fully seated into place.
2. Connect the power seat switch electrical connector (4).
3. Install the seat cushion outboard side shield.
5. Verify normal operation of the power seat assembly.
TRACK - POWER SEAT
REMOVAL
POWER SEAT TRACK

2. Remove the driver front seat, refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove seat cushion side shields.
4. Remove bolts attaching seat frame to cushion pan.
5. Disconnect wire harness fasteners from cushion pan.
6. Remove seat back.
7. Remove seat cushion tension springs.
8. Remove power seat track nuts.
9. Remove power seat track from riser.
10. Remove any parts that need to be transferred to the new seat track assembly.
INSTALLATION
POWER SEAT TRACK
1. Install any parts that need to be transferred from the old seat track assembly.
2. Place power seat track in position on the seat frame ensuring motor is installed correctly into seat risers.
3. Install power seat track to seat riser nuts.
4. Install seat springs.
5. Connect wire harness fasteners to the cushion pan.
6. Install bolts attaching power seat track to cushion pan.
7. Install seat back. Tighten recliner bolts to 12 N.m (9 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten pivot bolts to 40 N.m (30 ft.
lbs.) torque.
8. Install cushion side shields.
9. Install seat in vehicle, refer to REMOVAL .
11. Verify normal operation of the power seat assembly.
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2007 ENGINE Starting - Service Information - Nitro
2007 ENGINE
Starting - Service Information - Nitro
STARTING INFORMATION
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The Remote Starting System allows the vehicle to be started up to 300 feet (91 meters) away from the vehicle
using the remote keyless entry key fob which is part of your ignition key. In order to remote start your vehicle,
the hood, liftgate, and all of the doors must be closed. To remotely start your vehicle, press the "Lock" button
on the key fob once, then within three seconds press the "Remote Start" button twice. To indicate that the
vehicle is about to start, the parking lights will flash and the horn will sound briefly. Once the vehicle has
started, the engine will run for 15 minutes. To cancel remote start, press the "Remote Start" button twice within
two seconds. To enter the vehicle while the engine is running during a remote start, you must first unlock the
vehicle using the "Unlock" button on the key fob. After the vehicle is unlocked, you have 60 seconds to enter
the vehicle, insert the key into the ignition, and move it to the RUN position. Otherwise, the engine will cancel
remote start and automatically turn off. Remote start will also cancel if any of the following occur:
If the engine stalls or RPM exceeds 2500.

Any engine warning lamps come on.
The hood is opened.
The hazard switch is pressed.
The transmission is moved out of P (Park).
The vehicle can be started remotely up to a maximum of two times. The vehicle is also allowed a maximum of
one failed start, where the remote start sequence was initiated but cancelled before the engine begins to crank.
After either of these conditions, or if the Vehicle Theft Alarm is alarming, or if the PANIC button was pressed,
the vehicle must be reset by inserting a valid key into the ignition and moving it to the RUN position, then back
to LOCK.
STARTING SYSTEM
The starting system consists of:
Starter relay
Starter motor (including an integral starter solenoid)
Other components to be considered as part of starting system are:
Battery
Battery cables
Ignition switch and key lock cylinder
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Clutch pedal position switch (manual transmission)

Park/neutral position switch (automatic transmission)
Wire harnesses and connections.
The Battery, Starting, and Charging systems operate in conjunction with one another, and must be tested as a
complete system. For correct operation of starting/charging systems, all components used in these 3 systems
must perform within specifications. When attempting to diagnose any of these systems, it is important that you
keep their interdependency in mind.
The diagnostic procedures used in each of these groups include the most basic conventional diagnostic methods,
to the more sophisticated On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) built into the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Use
of an induction-type milliampere ammeter, volt/ohmmeter, battery charger, carbon pile rheostat (load tester),
and 12-volt test lamp may be required.
Certain starting system components are monitored by the PCM and may produce a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC).
OPERATION
STARTING SYSTEM
The starting system components form two separate circuits. A high-amperage feed circuit that feeds the starter
motor between 150 and 350 amperes (700 amperes - diesel engine), and a low-amperage control circuit that
operates on less than 20 amperes. The high-amperage feed circuit components include the battery, the battery
cables, the contact disc portion of the starter solenoid, and the starter motor. The low-amperage control circuit
components include the ignition switch, the clutch pedal position switch (manual transmission), the park/neutral
position switch (automatic transmission), the starter relay, the electromagnetic windings of the starter solenoid,
and the connecting wire harness components.
If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, it has a clutch pedal position switch installed in series
between the ignition switch and the coil battery terminal of the starter relay. This normally open switch prevents
the starter relay from being energized when the ignition switch is turned to the momentary Start position, unless
the clutch pedal is depressed. This feature prevents starter motor operation while the clutch disc and the
flywheel are engaged. The starter relay coil ground terminal is always grounded on vehicles with a manual
transmission.
If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, battery voltage is supplied through the low-amperage
control circuit to the coil battery terminal of the starter relay when the ignition switch is turned to the
momentary Start position. The park/neutral position switch is installed in series between the starter relay coil
ground terminal and ground. This normally open switch prevents the starter relay from being energized and the
starter motor from operating unless the automatic transmission gear selector is in the Neutral or Park positions.
When the starter relay coil is energized, the normally open relay contacts close. The relay contacts connect the
relay common feed terminal to the relay normally open terminal. The closed relay contacts energize the starter
solenoid coil windings.
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The energized solenoid pull-in coil pulls in the solenoid plunger. The solenoid plunger pulls the shift lever in
the starter motor. This engages the starter overrunning clutch and pinion gear with the starter ring gear on the
manual transmission flywheel or on the automatic transmission torque converter or torque converter drive plate.
As the solenoid plunger reaches the end of its travel, the solenoid contact disc completes the high-amperage
starter feed circuit and energizes the solenoid plunger hold-in coil. Current now flows between the solenoid
battery terminal and the starter motor, energizing the starter.
Once the engine starts, the overrunning clutch protects the starter motor from damage by allowing the starter
pinion gear to spin faster than the pinion shaft. When the driver releases the ignition switch to the On position,
the starter relay coil is de-energized. This causes the relay contacts to open. When the relay contacts open, the
starter solenoid plunger hold-in coil is de-energized.
When the solenoid plunger hold-in coil is de-energized, the solenoid plunger return spring returns the plunger to
its relaxed position. This causes the contact disc to open the starter feed circuit, and the shift lever to disengage
the overrunning clutch and pinion gear from the starter ring gear.
OPERATION
Remote Start Operating Conditions
In order to operate remote start, the following conditions must be met:
 Key fob sequence must be operated within a 100 meter range of the vehicle.
 The vehicle must be in Park.
 Key is not in the ignition.
 The hazard switch off.
 Vehicle Theft Alarm or Panic is not alarming.
 Doors and hood must be closed.
 The battery voltage is normal (11 to 15 volts).
Remote Start Shut Down/Deactivate Conditions
Engine will NOT start or will shut down/deactivate during any of the following conditions:
 Key in Ignition.
 Doors or hood are opened before remote unlock.
 Hazard Switch depressed.
 Panic or theft alarm active.
 Brake applied.
 A prior remote start cranked the engine , but failed to start the engine.
 Battery voltage NOT in the normal range.
 High (run away) or Low Idle (stall) RPM.
 MIL Active.
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 High Engine Coolant Temperature.

 Low Engine Oil Pressure.
Initiate Remote Start
To Remote Start the vehicle:
1. Press remote button on the Key Fob twice within 5 seconds.
NOTE: Engine will run for 15 minutes after a remote start is initiated. After 15
minutes, the engine will shut off. The system allows for only two
sequential remote starts without a key ignition cycle.
2. Unlock vehicle with Key Fob to enter the vehicle.

3. Put key in ignition, turn key to run position to exit remote start and enter a normal start without engine
shut off.
Identification that Remote Start is Activated
To identify that Remote Start has been activated the following will occur:
 Horn will sound and lights will flash to acknowledge a start command was received.
 Park Lamps will turn on to indicate that the engine is running in remote start mode.
Terminate Remote Start
To terminate Remote Start, press Remote Start button on the Key Fob once.
NOTE: In order to avoid inadvertent shut downs, the one-time press to shut down the
vehicle will be disabled for two seconds after receipt of a valid remote start
request.
STARTING SYSTEM
The battery, starting, and charging systems operate in conjunction with one another, and must be tested as a
complete system. For correct starting/charging system operation, all of the components involved in these three
systems must perform within specifications.
Starting System Diagnosis

STARTER FAILS TO 1. Battery discharged or 1. Refer to BATTERY . Charge or replace battery, if
OPERATE. faulty. required.
2. Starting circuit wiring 2. Refer to SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS . Test
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faulty. and repair starter feed and/or control circuits, if

required.
3. Starter relay faulty. 3. The starter relay is located within the TIPM
(Totally Integrated Power Module). Refer to "*NO
CRANK CONDITION " .
4. Ignition switch faulty. 4. Refer to Ignition Switch and Key Lock Cylinder in
STEERING SYSTEM article. Replace ignition
switch if required.
5. Clutch pedal position 5. Refer to SWITCH-CLUTCH PEDAL
switch faulty. POSITION .
6. Park/Neutral position 6. Refer to Park/Neutral Position Switch in 42RLE -
switch faulty or SERVICE INFORMATION . Replace park/neutral
misadjusted. position switch if required.
7. Starter solenoid faulty. 7. Refer to MOTOR - STARTER. Replace starter
motor assembly if required.
8. Starter motor faulty. 8. If all other starting system components and circuits
test OK, replace starter motor.
STARTER ENGAGES, 1. Battery discharged or 1. Refer to BATTERY . Charge or replace battery if
FAILS TO TURN faulty. required.
ENGINE. 2. Starting circuit wiring 2. Refer to SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS . Test
faulty. and repair starter feed and/or control circuits if
required.
test OK, replace starter motor assembly.
4. Engine seized. 4. Refer to Engine Diagnosis in the DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING for 3.7L - SERVICE
INFORMATION or DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
for 4.0L - SERVICE INFORMATION .
STARTER ENGAGES, 1. Starter ring gear 1. Refer to Starter Motor REMOVAL and
SPINS OUT BEFORE faulty. INSTALLATION. Remove starter motor to inspect
ENGINE STARTS. starter ring gear. Replace starter ring gear if required.
test OK, replace starter motor assembly.
STARTER DOES NOT 1. Starter motor 1. Refer to Starter Motor REMOVAL and
DISENGAGE. improperly installed. INSTALLATION. Tighten starter mounting
hardware to correct torque specifications.
2. Starter relay faulty. 2. The starter relay is located within the TIPM
(Totally Integrated Power Module). Refer to "*NO
CRANK CONDITION " .
3. Ignition switch faulty. 3. Refer to Ignition Switch and Key Lock Cylinder in
STEERING SYSTEM article. Replace ignition
switch if required.
test OK, replace starter motor.
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INSPECTION
For complete starter wiring circuit diagrams, refer to SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS . Before removing any
unit from starting system for repair or diagnosis, perform the following inspections:
WARNING: On vehicles equipped with airbags, refer to RESTRAINTS - SERVICE

INFORMATION , before attempting any steering wheel, steering column,
or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Failure to take the
possible personal injury.
Battery - Visually inspect battery for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded cable
connections. Determine state-of-charge and cranking capacity of battery. Charge or replace battery if
required. Refer to BATTERY . Note: If equipped with diesel engine, a dual battery system may be
used, and both batteries must be inspected.
Ignition Switch - Visually inspect ignition switch for indications of physical damage and loose or
corroded wire harness connections. Refer to STEERING SYSTEM article.
Clutch Pedal Position Switch - If equipped with manual transmission, visually inspect clutch pedal
position switch for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections. Refer
to SWITCH-CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION .
Park/Neutral Position Switch - If equipped with automatic transmission, visually inspect park/neutral
position switch for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections. Refer
to 42RLE - SERVICE INFORMATION .
Starter Relay - The starter relay is located within the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module). Refer to
"*NO CRANK CONDITION " .
Starter Motor - Visually inspect starter motor for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded
wire harness connections.
Starter Solenoid - Visually inspect starter solenoid for indications of physical damage and loose or
corroded wire harness connections.
Wiring - Visually inspect wire harnesses for damage. Repair or replace any faulty wiring, as required.
Refer to SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS article .
TESTING
COLD CRANKING TEST
NOTE: For complete starter wiring circuit diagrams, refer to SYSTEM WIRING
DIAGRAMS . The battery must be fully-charged and load-tested before
proceeding. Refer to BATTERY .
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Fig. 1: Identifying Positive Clamp, Negative Clamp & Induction Ammeter Clamp
1 - POSITIVE CLAMP
2 - NEGATIVE CLAMP
3 - INDUCTION AMMETER CLAMP
1. Connect volt-ampere tester (1) and (2) to battery terminals. See Fig. 1. See instructions provided by
manufacturer of volt-ampere tester being used. Note: Certain diesel equipped models use dual
batteries. If equipped with dual battery system, tester should be connected to battery on left side of
vehicle only. Also, tester current reading must be taken from positive battery cable lead that
connects to starter motor.
2. Fully engage parking brake.
3. If equipped with manual transmission, place gearshift selector lever in Neutral position and block clutch
pedal in fully depressed position. If equipped with automatic transmission, place gearshift selector lever
in Park position.
4. Verify that all lamps and accessories are turned off.
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5. To prevent a gasoline engine from starting, remove either the ignition run fuse, or the fuel pump control
fuse. To prevent a diesel engine from starting, disconnect the electrical connectors at both the camshaft
and crankshaft position sensors.
WARNING: Attempt to start engine a few times before proceeding with following
step.
NOTE: A cold engine will increase starter current (amperage) draw reading, and
reduce battery voltage reading.
6. Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Note cranking voltage and current (amperage) draw
readings shown on volt-ampere tester.
 If voltage reads below 9.6 volts, refer to STARTER MOTOR in Diagnosis and Testing. If starter
motor is OK, refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING for 3.7L - SERVICE INFORMATION or
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING for 4.0L - SERVICE INFORMATION for further testing of
engine. If starter motor is not OK, replace faulty starter motor.
 If voltage reads above 9.6 volts and current (amperage) draw reads below specifications, refer to
FEED CIRCUIT TEST .
 If voltage reads 12.5 volts or greater and starter motor does not turn, refer to CONTROL
CIRCUIT TESTING .
 If voltage reads 12.5 volts or greater and starter motor turns very slowly, refer to FEED CIRCUIT
TEST .
FEED CIRCUIT TEST
The starter feed circuit test (voltage drop method) will determine if there is excessive resistance in high-
amperage feed circuit. For complete starter wiring circuit diagrams, refer to SYSTEM WIRING
DIAGRAMS .
When performing these tests, it is important to remember that voltage drop is giving an indication of resistance
between two points at which voltmeter probes are attached.
Example: When testing resistance of positive battery cable, touch voltmeter leads to positive battery cable
clamp and cable connector at starter solenoid. If you probe positive battery terminal post and cable connector at
starter solenoid, you are reading combined voltage drop in positive battery cable clamp-to-terminal post
connection and positive battery cable.
The following operation will require a voltmeter accurate to 1/10 (0.10) volt. Before performing tests, be certain
that following procedures are accomplished:
Battery is fully-charged and load-tested. Refer to BATTERY .

Fully engage parking brake.
If equipped with manual transmission, place gearshift selector lever in Neutral position and block clutch
pedal in fully depressed position. If equipped with automatic transmission, place gearshift selector lever
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in Park position.
Verify that all lamps and accessories are turned off.
To prevent a gasoline engine from starting, remove Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay. To prevent a
diesel engine from starting, remove Fuel Pump Relay. These relays are located in Power Distribution
Center (PDC). Refer to label on PDC cover for relay location.
Fig. 2: Testing Battery Negative Connection Resistance

1 - VOLTMETER
2 - BATTERY
1. Connect positive lead of voltmeter (1) to negative battery cable terminal post. Connect negative lead of
voltmeter to negative battery cable clamp. See Fig. 2. Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position.
Observe voltmeter. If voltage is detected, correct poor contact between cable clamp and terminal post.
Note: Certain diesel equipped models use dual batteries. If equipped with dual battery system,
procedure must be performed twice, once for each battery.
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Fig. 3: Testing Battery Positive Connection Resistance

1 - VOLTMETER
2 - BATTERY
2. Connect positive lead of voltmeter to positive battery terminal post. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to
battery positive cable clamp. See Fig. 3. Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe
voltmeter. If voltage is detected, correct poor contact between cable clamp and terminal post. Note:
Certain diesel equipped models use dual batteries. If equipped with dual battery system, this
procedure must be performed twice, once for each battery.
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Fig. 4: Testing Battery Positive Cable Resistance

1 - BATTERY
2 - VOLTMETER
3 - STARTER MOTOR
3. Connect voltmeter to measure between battery positive terminal post and starter solenoid battery terminal
stud. See Fig. 4. Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If reading is above
0.2 volt, clean and tighten battery cable connection at solenoid. Repeat test. If reading is still above 0.2
volt, replace faulty positive battery cable. Note: Certain diesel equipped models use dual batteries. If
equipped with dual battery system, this procedure must be performed on driver side battery only.
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Fig. 5: Testing Ground Circuit Resistance

1 - VOLTMETER
2 - BATTERY
3 - ENGINE GROUND
4. Connect voltmeter to measure between negative battery terminal post and a good clean ground on engine
block. See Fig. 5. Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If reading is above
0.2 volt, clean and tighten negative battery cable attachment on engine block. Repeat test. If reading is
still above 0.2 volt, replace faulty negative battery cable. Note: Certain diesel equipped models use
dual batteries. If equipped with dual battery system, this procedure must be performed twice, once
for each battery.
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Fig. 6: Testing Starter Ground

1 - STARTER MOTOR
2 - BATTERY
3 - VOLTMETER
5. Connect positive lead of voltmeter to starter housing. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to negative
battery terminal post. See Fig. 6. Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If
reading is above 0.2 volt, correct poor starter to engine block ground contact. Note: Certain diesel
equipped models use dual batteries. If equipped with dual battery system, this procedure must be
performed on driver side battery only.
6. If equipped with dual battery system (certain diesel equipped models), connect positive lead of voltmeter
to positive battery cable clamp on battery located on left side of vehicle. Connect negative lead of
voltmeter to positive battery terminal post on battery located on right side of vehicle. Rotate and hold
ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If reading is above 0.2 volt, clean and tighten battery
cables at both batteries. Repeat test. If reading is still above 0.2 volt, replace faulty positive battery cable.
If resistance tests detect no feed circuit problems, refer to STARTER MOTOR in the Diagnosis and Testing.
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CONTROL CIRCUIT TESTING
The starter control circuit components should be tested in the order in which they are listed, as follows:
Starter Relay - Refer to RELAY - STARTER MOTOR. The starter relay is located within the TIPM
(Totally Integrated Power Module). Refer to "*NO CRANK CONDITION " .
Starter Solenoid - Refer to STARTER MOTOR.
Ignition Switch - Refer to Ignition Switch and Key Lock Cylinder in STEERING SYSTEM
Clutch Pedal Position Switch - If equipped with manual transmission, refer to SWITCH-CLUTCH
PEDAL POSITION .
Park/Neutral Position Switch - If equipped with automatic transmission, refer to 42RLE - SERVICE
INFORMATION article .
Wire harnesses and connections - Refer to SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS .
REMOTE STARTING SYSTEM
Before attempting to diagnose a problem with the remote starting system, first be sure the starter motor and
starter solenoid are working properly. The starter should operate with the use of the standard ignition key in the
ignition switch. Any starter or solenoid problems must be repaired first.
Also be sure the engine will easily start and run with the use of the standard ignition key in the ignition switch.
Any engine running, idling or driveability problems must be repaired first.
Also note that the remote start system will automatically be cancelled if any of the following occur:
 IF THE ENGINE STALLS OR RPM EXCEEDS 2500

 NORMAL TIME OUT RUN MODE (15 MINUTES)
 CUSTOMER MOVES IGNITION INTO RUN/START
 ANY VEHICLE DOOR AJAR
 TRUNK/LIFTGATE AJAR
 HOOD AJAR
 START COUNTER REACHED
 LOW RPM SHUTDOWN
 KEY IN IGNITION
 BRAKE PRESSED
 THE HAZARD SWITCH IS PRESSED
 NOT IN PARK OR NEUTRAL
 VEHICLE SPEED HIGH
 VTA ALARM TRIGGERED
 PANIC MODE ACTIVATED
 BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
 BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
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 LOSS OF BATTERY VOLTAGE

 MIL ON
 LOW OIL PRESSURE
 COOLANT TEMPERATURE HIGH
 CRANK NO START
 RKE OFF MESSAGE
 VEHICLE NOT CONFIGURED
 HOOD SWITCH NOT INSTALLED OR INOPERATIVE
 NO AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
 INVALID KEY
 IGNITION SNA
 IGNITION NOT IN LOCK
 EXCESSIVE GLOW PLUG TIME (DIESEL ONLY)
 VEHICLE IN SHIPPING MODE
 VEHICLE NOT PROGRAMMED
If all of the previous items checked OK, and the remote starting system will not operate, refer to STARTING -
ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS for further information.
SPECIFICATIONS
Starter Solenoid Battery 11 - 100
Cable Nut
Starter Mounting Bolts - 54 40 -
3.7L/4.0L
Starter Mounting Bolts - 41 30 -
2.8L Diesel
Starter Heat Shield 6 - 55
Mounting Bolts
STARTER MOTOR SPECIFICATIONS
STARTER MOTOR
Engine Application 3.7L 4.0L 2.8L Diesel
1.4 Kilowatt/1.9
Power Rating 1.2 Kilowatt 2.2 Kilowatt
Horsepower
* Cranking Amperage
100 - 200 Amperes 125 - 250 Amperes 500 Amperes
Draw Test
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* Test at operating temperature. Cold engine, tight (new) engine, or heavy oil will increase starter
amperage draw.
**The starter is equipped with permanent magnets. Never strike the starter case to attempt to loosen a
sticking/stuck armature as permanent magnets may crack or break.
MOTOR - STARTER
STARTER MOTOR
Correct starter motor operation can be confirmed by performing the following free running bench test. This test
can only be performed with starter motor removed from vehicle. Refer to STARTER MOTOR
SPECIFICATIONS for starter motor specifications.
1. Remove starter motor from vehicle. Refer to MOTOR - STARTER Removal and Installation.
2. Mount starter motor securely in a soft-jawed bench vise. The vise jaws should be clamped on the
mounting flange of starter motor. Never clamp on starter motor by field frame.
3. Connect a suitable volt-ampere tester and a 12-volt battery to starter motor in series, and set ammeter to
100 ampere scale. See instructions provided by manufacturer of volt-ampere tester being used.
4. Install jumper wire from solenoid terminal to solenoid battery terminal. The starter motor should operate.
If starter motor fails to operate, replace faulty starter motor assembly.
5. Adjust carbon pile load of tester to obtain free running test voltage. Refer to STARTER MOTOR
SPECIFICATIONS for starter motor free running test voltage specifications.
6. Note reading on ammeter and compare reading to free running test maximum amperage draw. Refer to
STARTER MOTOR SPECIFICATIONS for starter motor free running test maximum amperage draw
specifications.
7. If ammeter reading exceeds maximum amperage draw specification, replace faulty starter motor
assembly.
STARTER SOLENOID
Certain vehicles with certain engines may require starter motor removal for the following test.
1. If necessary, remove starter motor from vehicle. Refer to MOTOR - STARTER Removal and
Installation.
2. Disconnect solenoid connector wiring from starter motor.
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Fig. 7: Solenoid Continuity Test

3. Check for continuity between solenoid terminal (2) and solenoid case (3). There should be continuity. If
not OK, replace faulty starter motor assembly.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 2.8L DIESEL
Fig. 8: Identifying Solenoid Nut, Mounting Stud, Electrical Connector & Battery Cable Assembly

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3. Four Wheel Drive Equipped: Remove front propeller shaft.
4. Remove solenoid nut (1) from mounting stud (3).
5. After nut (1) has been removed, pull battery cable from mounting stud (3) while removing electrical
connector (5) from solenoid terminal.
Fig. 9: Starter Motor - 2.8L Diesel Auto. Trans.

Fig. 10: Starter Motor - 2.8L Diesel STD. Trans.

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6. Remove two starter mounting bolts (2).

7. Remove starter assembly (1) from transmission.
8. Rotate starter assembly (1) to allow removal from vehicle.
REMOVAL - 3.7L

Fig. 11: Starter Heat Shield - 3.7L

4. Remove two heat shield bolts (1) and remove starter heat shield (2).
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9. Rotate starter assembly to allow removal from vehicle.
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REMOVAL - 4.0L


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8. Remove plate (3) from transmission.
9. Rotate starter assembly (1) to allow removal from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 4.0L

1. Rotate starter assembly (1) to allow positioning into transmission.

2. Install two starter mounting bolts (2) and tighten. Refer to Torque Specifications.
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3. Position battery cable assembly (2) onto stud (3) while pushing solenoid connector (5) onto solenoid
terminal.
4. Install nut (1) and tighten. Refer to Torque Specifications.
5. Four Wheel Drive Equipped: Install front propeller shaft.
6. Lower vehicle.
INSTALLATION - 2.8L DIESEL
Fig. 18: Starter Motor - 2.8L Diesel Auto. Trans.

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Fig. 19: Starter Motor - 2.8L Diesel STD. Trans.


2. Install two starter mounting bolts (2) and tighten. Refer to TORQUE SPECIFICATION.
terminal.
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6. Lower vehicle.
INSTALLATION - 3.7L


2. Install two starter mounting bolts (1) and tighten. Refer to Torque Specifications.
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terminal.
Fig. 23: Starter Heat Shield - 3.7L

5. Position starter heat shield (2) and install two bolts (1).
7. Lower vehicle.
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RELAY - STARTER MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
STARTER RELAY
The starter relay is an electromechanical device that switches battery current to the pull-in coil of the starter
solenoid when ignition switch is turned to Start position. The starter relay is located in the Power Distribution
Center (PDC) in the engine compartment. See PDC cover for relay identification and location.
The starter relay is an International Standards Organization (ISO) relay. Relays conforming to ISO
specifications have common physical dimensions, current capacities, terminal patterns, and terminal functions.
The starter relay cannot be repaired or adjusted and, if faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.
OPERATION
STARTER RELAY
The ISO relay consists of an electromagnetic coil, a resistor or diode, and three (two fixed and one movable)
electrical contacts. The movable (common feed) relay contact is held against one of the fixed contacts (normally
closed) by spring pressure. When electromagnetic coil is energized, it draws the movable contact away from
normally closed fixed contact, and holds it against the other (normally open) fixed contact.
When electromagnetic coil is de-energized, spring pressure returns movable contact to normally closed position.
The resistor or diode is connected in parallel with electromagnetic coil within relay, and helps to dissipate
voltage spikes produced when coil is de-energized.
REMOVAL
STARTER RELAY
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Fig. 24: Identifying Power Distribution Center (PDC) & Left Inner Fender
The fuel pump relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) (1). The PDC is located in the engine
compartment near the left inner fender (2). Refer to label on PDC cover for relay location.
1. Remove PDC cover.

2. Remove relay from PDC.
3. Check condition of relay terminals and PDC connector terminals for damage or corrosion. Repair if
4. Check for pin height (pin height should be the same for all terminals within the PDC connector). Repair if
INSTALLATION
STARTER RELAY
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Fig. 25: Identifying Power Distribution Center (PDC) & Left Inner Fender
1. Refer to Power Distribution Center (PDC) cover for starter relay location.
2. Install relay to PDC (1).
3. Install cover to PDC.
MODULE-REMOTE START ANTENNA
DESCRIPTION
MODULE - REMOTE START ANTENNA
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Fig. 26: Remote Start Antenna Module Assembly

The Remote Start Antenna Module Assembly consists of an electrical connection to the WCM/WIN (1), a
length of coaxial cable (2), two mounting clips (3) and (4), and a control module/antenna (5).
OPERATION
OPERATION
The remote start antenna is located behind the instrument cluster. The antenna interfaces with the Wireless
Control Module (WCM) through a coaxial electrical cable and electrical connector. The antenna helps to
amplify the signal for the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) key fob.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 27: Identifying Integral Mounting Bracket, Screw, Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM),
Start Antenna Coaxial Cable Connector, Instrument Panel Wire Harness Connector & Lock Cylinder

2. Remove but do not disconnect the right multi-function switch from the integral mounting bracket (1) on
the right side of the clockspring and position it so that the Sentry Key REmote Entry Module (SKREEM)
(also known as the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module/SKIM or the Wireless Control Module/WCM)
mounting screw (2) may be accessed. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector (5) from the SKREEM (3) connector receptacle.
4. Remove the screw (2) that secures the SKREEM to the boss on the top of the ignition lock cylinder
housing (6).
5. Disengage the SKREEM antenna ring from around the ignition lock housing and remove the SKREEM
from the steering column.
6. Remove the coaxial electrical cable connector (4) from the SKREEM (3).
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Fig. 28: Antenna Module

7. Remove the instrument cluster, Refer to REMOVAL .
NOTE: During removal of the remote start antenna note the routing location of the
coaxial cable.
8. Remove the remote start antenna coaxial cable from mounting clips, if equipped.
9. Remove the screws (1) from remote start antenna module (2) and remove from instrument panel
assembly.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 29: Antenna Module

1. Install the remote start antenna module (2), and screws (1) to instrument panel assembly. Tighten screws
to 2.5 N.m (22 in. lbs.).
2. Install the instrument cluster. Refer to INSTALLATION .
3. Route the remote start coaxial cable in the position noted during the removal procedure.
4. Install the remote start antenna coaxial cable to mounting clips, if equipped.
Fig. 30: Identifying Mounting Bracket, Screw, Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM), Start
Antenna Coaxial Cable Connector, Instrument Panel Wire Harness Connector & Lock Cylinder
5. Connect remote start antenna coaxial cable connector (4) to the Sentry Key REmote Entry Module
(SKREEM) (3) (also known as the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module/SKIM or the Wireless Control
Module/WCM).
6. Position the SKREEM onto the steering column ignition lock housing with the antenna ring oriented
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around the lock cylinder (6).

7. Install and tighten the screw (2) that secures the SKREEM mounting bracket to the boss on the top of the
ignition lock housing. Tighten the screw to 2 N.m (20 in. lbs.).
8. Reconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector (5) to the SKREEM connector receptacle.
9. Reinstall the right multi-function switch onto the integral mounting bracket (1) on the right side of the
clockspring. Refer to INSTALLATION .
NOTE: On vehicles equipped with the Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS), when the
SKREEM is replaced with a new unit, a diagnostic scan tool MUST be used to
initialize the new SKREEM and to program at least two Sentry Key transponders
before the vehicle can be operated. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
NOTE: On vehicles equipped with a Tire Pressure Monitoring (TPM) system and a full-
sized matching spare tire and wheel assembly, when the SKREEM or the spare
tire pressure sensor is replaced with a new unit, a diagnostic scan tool MUST
be used to run a routine that allows the SKREEM to be programmed with the ID
number and location of the spare tire pressure sensor mounted in the wheel of
the spare tire. This may be done using a TPM-RKE Analyzer special tool by
following the programming steps outlined in the diagnostic scan tool for
Program Tire Sensor ID w/TPM Tool under Miscellaneous Functions for the
WCM/Wireless Control Module menu item. If a TPM-RKE Analyzer special tool is
not available, the spare tire must be dismounted from its wheel to access and
note the ID number on the spare tire pressure sensor so that the ID code for
that sensor can be programmed into the new SKREEM. Follow the programming
steps outlined in the diagnostic scan tool for Learn Spare Tire Sensor ID also
found under Miscellaneous Functions for the WCM/Wireless Control Module
menu item. Refer to INSTALLATION .
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2007 STEERING Steering System - Nitro
2007 STEERING
Steering System - Nitro
DESCRIPTION
STEERING SYSTEM
Power steering systems consist of:
Steering column & Intermediate Shaft

Rack and pinion steering gear
Belt driven hydraulic steering pump
Pump pressure, supply and return hoses
Oil Cooler
OPERATION
STEERING SYSTEM
The steering column intermediate shaft attaches the steering column to the gear pinion. The rotation of the
pinion moves the gear rack from side-to-side. This lateral action of the rack pushes and pulls the tie rods to
change the direction of the front wheels.
Power assist is provided by an engine mounted hydraulic pump. The pump supplies hydraulic fluid to the
steering gear. All vehicles are equipped with an oil cooler.

POWER STEERING FLOW AND PRESSURE
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Fig. 1: Analyzer With Tube & Adapter

1 - TUBE
2 - ADAPTER FITTINGS
3 - ANALYZER
4 - GAUGE HOSE
The following procedure is used to test the operation of the power steering system on the vehicle. This test will
provide the gallons per minute (GPM) or flow rate of the power steering pump along with the maximum relief
pressure. Perform test any time a power steering system problem is present. This test will determine if the
power steering pump or power steering gear is not functioning properly. The following pressure and flow test is
performed using Power Steering Analyzer Tool kit 6815 and Adapter Kit 6893. See Fig. 1.
FLOW AND PRESSURE TEST
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Fig. 2: Analyzer With Tube & Adapter

1 - TUBE
2 - ADAPTER FITTINGS
3 - ANALYZER
4 - GAUGE HOSE
1. Check the power steering belt to ensure it is in good condition and adjusted properly.
2. Connect pressure gauge hose from the Power Steering Analyzer to Tube 6844.
3. Connect Adapter 6826 to Power Steering Analyzer test valve end.
4. Disconnect the high pressure hose from the power steering pump.
5. Connect the tube to the pump hose fitting.
6. Connect the power steering hose from the steering gear to the adapter.
7. Open the test valve completely.
8. Start engine and let idle long enough to circulate power steering fluid through flow/pressure test gauge
and to get air out of the fluid. Then shut off engine.
9. Check fluid level, add fluid as necessary. Start engine again and let idle.
10. Check for air bubbles, evacuate if necessary.
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11. Gauge should read below 862 kPa (125 psi). If above, inspect the hoses for restrictions and repair as
necessary. The initial pressure reading should be in the range of 345-552 kPa (50-80 psi).
12. Increase the engine speed to 1500 RPM and read the flow meter. If the flow rate (GPM) is below
specification, (refer to pump specification chart for GPM) the pump should be replaced.
CAUTION: The following test procedure involves testing maximum pump

pressure output and flow control valve operation. Do not leave valve
closed for more than three seconds as the pump could be damaged.
13. Close valve fully three times and record highest pressure indicated each time. All three readings must
be above specifications and within 345 kPa (50 psi) of each other.
Pressures above specifications but not within 345 kPa (50 psi) of each other, replace pump.
Pressures within 345 kPa (50 psi) of each other but below specifications, replace pump.
14. Open the test valve and turn the steering wheel to the extreme left and right positions three times against
the stops. Record the highest pressure reading at each position. Compare readings to the pump
specifications chart. If pressure readings are not within 50 psi of each other, the gear is leaking internally
and must be replaced.
CAUTION: Do not force the pump to operate against the stops for more than 2 to
3 seconds at a time because, pump damage will result.
PUMP SPECIFICATION
FLOW RATE (GPM) AT 1500
ENGINE RELIEF PRESSURE
RPM
10342 kPa, PREFERRED (1450 psi) with a
ALL 2.4 - 2.8
MAX 1550 psi & 7929 kPa, MIN (1400 psi)
STEERING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHARTS
NOTE: There are three diagnosis charts following that cover NOISE, VIBRATION AND
HARSHNESS (NVH) ISSUES, PERFORMANCE ISSUES, and FLUID ISSUES.
NOISE, VIBRATION AND HARSHNESS (NVH) ISSUES
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES EVALUATION/CORRECTION

OBJECTIONABLE HISS 1. Damaged or mispositioned 1. Check to ensure boot is properly
OR WHISTLE WHILE steering column shaft/coupling dash installed and seals against sheet metal.
TURNING STEERING boot seal. Reposition or replace steering column
WHEEL WHEN shaft/coupling dash boot seal as
STATIONARY OR necessary.
MOVING SLOWLY*
2. Mis-routed power steering hose. 2. Check routing of power steering
hoses. Ensure hoses do not come in
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unwanted contact with other

components and objects.
3. Using an electronic listening tool,
3. Restriction in pressure or return determine if noise is coming from either
-
hose. pressure or return hose. Replace hose
that noise is present within.
4. Noisy valve in power steering 4. For evaluation and correction, see
gear. DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
RATTLE OR EXCESSIVE 1. Power steering gear loose on 1. Check fastener torque and tighten to
CLUNK** engine cradle/crossmember. specifications. Replace as necessary.
Check steering wheel center following
repair.
2. Loose strut assembly mounting 2. Check fastener torque and tighten to
fasteners at tower or knuckle. specifications.
3. Excessive play in outer tie rod. 3. For evaluation and correction, see
4. Engine cradle/crossmember 4. Check fastener torque and tighten to
mounting fasteners loose at frame specifications. Inspect bushings and
or bushings worn. repair as necessary.
5. Wheel Mounting (Lug) nuts 5. Inspect wheel mounting (Lug) nuts
loose. and studs and repair as necessary.
Tighten nuts to specifications.
6. Power steering hose touching the 6. For evaluation and correction, see
body or frame of vehicle. DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
7. Stabilizer bar link joints worn 7. At park, jounce only one side of
(occurs with steering input only vehicle front to exercise stabilizer bar.
when moving, not stationary). Replace stabilizer bar link.
8. Loose lower control arm 8. Check control arm mounting bolts
mounting bolts at engine cradle, and tighten to specified torque.
frame or crossmember (occurs with
steering input only when moving,
not stationary).
9. Rotate intermediate (steering) shaft in
9. Loose intermediate shaft or relationship to gear, checking for free-
-
column. play. Check column fasteners and
tighten to specifications as necessary.
10. Lower control arm pivot 10. Inspect bushings for wear and
bushing worn (occurs with steering replace lower control arm as necessary.
input only when moving, not
stationary).
11. Internal power steering gear 11. Drive vehicle on rough road, then
noise. steer rapidly back and forth when
stopped. Replace power steering gear as
necessary.
- 12. Loose inner tie rod. 12. For evaluation and correction, see
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- 13. Damaged engine 13. Inspect the cradle/crossmember for

cradle/crossmember. cracks or other damage. Replace as
necessary.
POPPING NOISE 1. Loose steering gear mounting 1. Check fasteners for proper torque and
fasteners. retighten as necessary.
- 2. Loose outer tie rod mounting nut 2. Check fastener torque. Replace nuts
or jam nut. as necessary and tighten to
specifications.
3. Make sure coupling is fully seated on
3. Loose intermediate (steering)
- gear input shaft. Retighten or re-seat as
shaft coupling at gear input shaft.
necessary.
4. For evaluation and correction, see
- 4. Worn tie rod (outer or inner).
- 5. Worn axle half-shaft. 5. For evaluation and correction, refer
to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .
CHIRP OR SQUEAL 1. Loose power steering pump drive 1. Inspect belt. Replace belt if worn or
(POWER STEERING belt. glazed. Tighten/adjust power steering
PUMP) pump drive belt if equipped with a
manual tensioner.
- 2. Pulley alignment incorrect. 2. Realign accessory drives.
- 3. Malfunctioning belt auto- 3. Verify belt tension. Replace belt
tensioner auto-tensioner.
4. Power steering pump noisy (worn determine if noise is coming from
-
bearing/bushing noise). pump. Replace power steering pump as
required.
determine if noise is coming from
- 5. Generator or water pump noisy.
Generator or water pump. Replace
faulty component.
WHINE, GROWL, MOAN 1. Low power steering fluid level. 1. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
OR GROAN (POWER proper level and check for leaks (make
STEERING PUMP)*** sure all air is bled from the system
fluid).
2. Inspect for excessive air bubbles in
fluid (fluid will appear foamy and
lighter in color). Inspect hoses for leaks
- 2. Air in power steering fluid.
and replace as necessary. Bleed air from
fluid. See STANDARD
PROCEDURE.
3. Power steering hose touching 3. For evaluation and correction, see
body or frame of vehicle. DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
- 4. Wear of power steering pump 4. For evaluation and correction, see
internal components. DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
COLD START WHINE 1. Low power steering fluid level. 1. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
OR MOAN (POWER proper level and check for leaks (make
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STEERING PUMP)*** sure all air is bled from the system

fluid).
- 2. Extremely low ambient 2. Some noise is expected as pump
temperature (near 0°F (-18°C) or attempts to pull cold, thick fluid. Noise
below) should go away as vehicle warms up.
Acceptable levels of excessive noise are
one second at 0°F (-18°C) and 15
seconds at -20°F (-29°C). If noise is
excessive, look for poor sealing on the
return hose or a possible fluid leak.
SQUEAKING OR 1. Steering column shroud or shaft 1. While turning the steering wheel,
RUBBING SOUND rubbing. listen down column to locate. Check
interference between moving
components. Move or realign shrouds
or shaft as necessary. Replace
components if this does not correct
problem.
- 2. Clockspring inside steering 2. Remove clockspring and reinstall
column noisy. steering wheel for testing. If noise is
gone, replace clockspring.
- 3. Boot/dash seal lubrication 3. Remove boot seal and recheck for
inadequate. noise. Lubricate seal as necessary.
- 4. Steering gear outer tie rod noisy. 4. While a helper turns the steering
wheel, use an electronic listening tool to
determine if noise is coming from either
outer tie rod. Replace outer tie rods as
necessary.
- 5. Steering gear internally noisy. 5. Remove dash seal boot, then exercise
the steering wheel. If noise is still
present at gear, replace steering gear.
SCRUBBING OR 1. Incorrect tire or wheel size. 1. Replace incorrect size tire or wheel
KNOCKING SOUND. with original equipment size.
2. Drive vehicle, moving accelerator
2. Worn motor or transmission pedal rapidly up and down attempting
-
mount. to locate noise. Try in both forward and
reverse. Replace mounts as necessary.
3. Make sure wheel house is properly
positioned. If not, reposition as
necessary. If steering wheel is properly
centered, check steering gear travel left
- 3. Tires contacting wheel well. to right by rotating the steering wheel to
each stop. Steering wheel should rotate
the same amount in both directions
from center. If not, replace steering
gear.
- 4. Interference between moving 4. Check for bent or misaligned
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steering components and other components. Correct or replace as

components. necessary.
- 5. Accessory drive pulley rubbing 5. Check pulleys for wear. Check for
against another component. worn engine or transmission mount.
Reposition components or replace
mounts as necessary.
NOTE: * There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common
is a hissing sound evident when turning the steering wheel when at a standstill
or when parking and the steering wheel is at the end of its travel. Hiss is a very
high frequency noise similar to that experienced while slowly closing a water
tap. The noise is present in every valve and results when high velocity fluid
passes valve orifice edges. There is no relationship between this noise and the
performance of the steering system.
NOTE: ** A light clunk may be felt or heard during steering wheel reversal while vehicle
is stationary. This results from internal steering gear rack movement at the
bushings and in no way affects the performance of the steering system. This
movement may be felt in the steering components during steering wheel
reversal.
NOTE: *** Power steering pump growl/moan/groan results from the development of
high pressure fluid flow. Normally this noise level should not be high enough to
be objectionable.
PERFORMANCE ISSUES

STEERING WHEEL OR 1. Loose coupling pinch bolt 1. Check pinch bolt torque. Replace
COLUMN HAS at gear input shaft. pinch bolt if equipped with thread
FREEPLAY/LASH/LOOSENESS locker patch and tighten to
(CLUNKING OR RATTLING) specifications.
2. Inspect gear mounting bolts. Replace
2. Power steering gear loose
- if necessary and tighten to
on cradle/crossmember.
specifications.
3. Excessive freeplay or noise 3. Replace steering column.
from steering column
bearings.
4. Rotate steering wheel back-and-forth
4. Excessive intermediate
while watching coupling. Observe for
- (steering) shaft coupling u-
free-play. Replace intermediate shaft as
joint free-play.
necessary.
5. Loose or worn outer tie 5. For evaluation and correction, see
-
rod. DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
6. For evaluation, refer to
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6. Lack of lubrication in Lubricate ball joint if equipped with a
- lower ball joint or ball joint is zerk fitting and check for function. If
damaged. not equipped with a zerk fitting, test
and replace ball joint as necessary.
- 7. Excessive lash inside 7. Disconnect intermediate shaft and
steering gear. turn steering gear input shaft. Observe
for any movement without a
corresponding tire movement. Replace
steering gear as necessary.
STEERING WHEEL HAS FORE 1. Steering wheel retaining 1. Check steering wheel retaining bolt
AND AFT LOOSENESS. bolt loose. torque and tighten to specifications as
necessary.
2. Loose steering column to 2. Check steering column to instrument
instrument panel fasteners. panel fastener torque and tighten to
specifications as necessary.
3. Steering column lower 3. Pull steering wheel fore-and-aft
bearing spring retainer while observing movement. Replace
slipped on steering column steering column as necessary.
shaft.
STEERING WHEEL, DASH OR 1. Air in power steering fluid. 1. Inspect for excessive air bubbles in
VEHICLE VIBRATES DURING fluid (fluid will appear foamy and
STEERING MANEUVERS lighter in color). Inspect hoses for leaks
(ESPECIALLY AT LOW SPEED and replace as necessary. Bleed air
OR STANDSTILL). from fluid. See STANDARD
PROCEDURE.
2. Tire(s) not properly 2. Check and inflate tires to the
inflated. specified pressure.
3. Excessive engine vibration. 3. Ensure that the engine is tuned
properly.
4. Loose tie rod end jam nut. 4. Check torque and tighten the inner to
outer tie rod jam nut to specifications.
5. Overcharged air 5. Turn A/C off and verify issue goes
conditioning (A/C) system. away. Repair A/C as necessary.
- 6. Grounded, damaged or 6. Visually inspect for damaged or
loose engine mount. misaligned mounts. Check fastener
torque. Replace, realign or retighten as
necessary.
7. Loose or worn outer tie 7. For evaluation and correction, see
-
rod. DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
- 8. Steering gear noisy. 8. During a parking event at 0 mph,
verify there is vibration only with
steering. Steer in both directions and
verify that the noise follows the
steering input. Check TSB's for any
known issues. Replace steering gear as
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necessary.
STEERING CATCHES, 1. Low power steering fluid 1. Check fluid level and fill to proper
SURGES OR STICKS IN level. level as necessary. Check for leaks.
CERTAIN POSITIONS OR IS Make sure all air is bled from system.
DIFFICULT TO TURN.
2. Tire(s) not properly 2. Check and inflate tires to the
inflated. specified pressure.
3. Loose or slipping power 3. Verify belt tension. Replace belt
-
steering/accessory drive belt. auto-tensioner and belt as necessary.
4. Lack of lubrication in 4. For evaluation, refer to
lower ball joint or ball joint is
damaged. Lubricate ball joint if equipped with a
zerk fitting and check for function. If
not equipped with a zerk fitting, test
5. Lack of lubrication in 5. For evaluation and correction, see
steering gear outer tie rod end DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
(s).
6. Faulty power steering 6. Perform Power Steering Flow and
pump. Pressure Test. See DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING. Look for low or erratic
flow or pressure. Replace power
steering pump as necessary.
7. Excessive friction in 7. Disconnect intermediate
intermediate shaft/coupler shaft/coupler at steering gear and check
joint. joint for smooth operation in all
directions. Replace intermediate
shaft/coupler joint.
steering column. shaft/coupler at steering gear. Turn
steering wheel two revolutions in either
direction from on center and check for
smooth operation. DO NOT turn past
two revolutions. Damage to the
clockspring may occur. Replace
steering column as necessary.
9. Worn or binding seat and 9. Disconnect outer tie rod ends from
bearing in front strut knuckles, then turn tire and wheel
assembly. assembly checking for smooth
operation. Replace front strut assembly
seat and bearing.
- 10. Faulty steering gear. 10. With vehicle on hoist, tires
unsupported and engine off, steer gear
throughout travel and check for smooth
operation. Replace steering gear (only
after all previous components have
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been checked).
STEERING WHEEL DOES NOT 1. Tire(s) not properly 1. Check and inflate tires to the
RETURN TO CENTER inflated. specified pressure.
POSITION.
2. Improper front wheel 2. Check and adjust wheel alignment as
alignment. necessary.
3. Lack of lubrication in 3. For evaluation, refer to
lower ball joint or ball joint is DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .
damaged. Lubricate ball joint if equipped with a
zerk fitting and check for function. If
not equipped with a zerk fitting, test
intermediate shaft/coupler shaft/coupler at steering gear and check
joint. joint for smooth operation in all
directions. Replace intermediate
shaft/coupler joint.
steering column. shaft/coupler at steering gear. Turn
steering wheel two revolutions in either
direction from on center and check for
smooth operation. DO NOT turn past
two revolutions. Damage to the
clockspring may occur. Replace
steering column as necessary.
6. Worn or binding seat and 6. Disconnect steering gear outer tie rod
bearing in front strut ends at knuckles, then turn tire and
assembly. wheel assembly in and out checking for
smooth operation. Replace seat and
bearing as necessary.
7. Excessive friction in power 7. With vehicle on hoist, tires
steering gear. unsupported and engine off, steer gear
throughout travel and check for smooth
operation. Replace steering gear (only
after all previous components have
been checked).
EXCESSIVE STEERING 1. Air in power steering fluid. 1. Inspect for excessive air bubbles in
WHEEL KICKBACK FROM fluid (fluid will appear foamy and
ROAD INPUTS lighter in color). Inspect hoses for leaks
and replace as necessary. Bleed air
from fluid. See STANDARD
PROCEDURE.
2. Power steering gear loose 2. Inspect gear mounting bolts. Replace
on cradle/crossmember. if necessary and tighten to
specifications.
3. Steering column, coupling 3. Rotate steering wheel back-and-forth
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or intermediate shaft worn or while inspecting intermediate shaft

loose. going into steering gear. Look for
excessive free-play. Retighten if loose
bolt is found. Replace steering column,
coupling or intermediate shaft if
necessary.
4. Power steering pump flow 4. Perform Power Steering Flow and
is too low. Pressure Test. See DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING. Look for low or erratic
flow or pressure. Replace power
steering pump as necessary.
FLUID ISSUES

LOW FLUID LEVEL 1. Loose power steering hose 1. Check torque on all tube nuts (at gear
WITH VISIBLE LEAK. fittings or connections. and pump). Inspect clamps at all rubber
hose connections for correct position,
damage and tension. Tighten tube nuts as
required. Reposition or replace clamps at
hose connections. Clean joints and
reinspect for leaks.
- 2. Damaged or missing O-ring at 2. Remove tube nut and inspect O-ring. If
power steering hose tube nuts. damaged or missing, replace O-ring. Clean
joints and reinspect for leaks.
3. Clean fluid from around suspect areas.
3. Power steering line or hose Run vehicle and inspect for leaks. Look
-
failure. inside reservoir to see if air is being
ingested. Replace hoses as necessary.
4. Power steering component 4. Clean fluid from around suspect areas.
leaking (reservoir, pump, gear). Run vehicle and inspect for leaks. Look
inside reservoir to see if air is being
ingested. Replace power steering
component as necessary.
AERATED FLUID.* 1. Low power steering fluid level. 1. Check fluid level and fill to proper level
as necessary. Check for leaks. Make sure
all air is bled from system.
2. Air leak at power steering 2. Inspect components. Put a hand vacuum
supply hose, reservoir or pump. pump on the reservoir and verify that the
system can keep a vacuum. System should
not lose more than 1 psi in 2 minutes
(make sure vacuum pump is sealed well to
the reservoir).
3. Air leak at power steering 3. Inspect components. Place a hand
supply hose, reservoir or pump. vacuum pump with Adapter 9688 on
reservoir and verify that system can
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sustain vacuum. System should not lose

more than 1 psi in 2 minutes (make sure
vacuum pump is sealed well to the
reservoir). Replace steering component as
necessary.
RESERVOIR FLUID 1. Water contamination of power 1. Inspect fluid for milky appearance.
OVERFLOW OR FLUID steering fluid. Completely drain power steering fluid.
THAT IS MILKY IN Refill and bleed system. See STANDARD
COLOR PROCEDURE.
NOTE: Extremely cold temperatures may cause power steering fluid aeration. The air
should work its way out of the system as the fluid warms.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
POWER STEERING SYSTEM BLEED PROCEDURE
WARNING: The fluid level should be checked with engine off to prevent injury from
moving components.
CAUTION: Mopar® Power Steering Fluid + 4 or Mopar® ATF+4 Automatic

Transmission Fluid is to be used in the power steering system. Both
Fluids have the same material standard specifications (MS-9602). No other
power steering or automatic transmission fluid is to be used in the system.
Damage may result to the power steering pump and system if another fluid
is used. Do not overfill the system.
CAUTION: If the air is not purged from the power steering system correctly, pump
failure could result.
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Fig. 3: Hand Vacuum Pump On Reservoir

NOTE: Be sure the vacuum tool used in the following procedure is clean and free of
any fluids.
1. Check the fluid level. As measured on the side of the reservoir, the level should indicate between MAX
and MIN when the fluid is at normal ambient temperature. Adjust the fluid level as necessary. See
STANDARD PROCEDURE.
2. Tightly insert Power Steering Cap Adapter (4), Special Tool 9688, into the mouth of the reservoir (3).
CAUTION: Failure to use a the vacuum pump reservoir (1) may allow power
steering fluid to be sucked into the hand vacuum pump.
3. Attach Hand Vacuum Pump (2), Special Tool C-4207 or equivalent, with reservoir (1) attached, to the
Power Steering Cap Adapter (4).
CAUTION: Do not run the engine while vacuum is applied to the power steering
system. Damage to the power steering pump can occur.
NOTE: When performing the following step make sure the vacuum level is
maintained during the entire time period.
4. Using Hand Vacuum Pump (2), apply 68-85 kPa (20-25 in. Hg) of vacuum to the system for a minimum
of three minutes.
5. Slowly release the vacuum and remove the special tools.
6. Adjust the fluid level as necessary. Refer to step 1.
7. Repeat step 1 through step 6 until the fluid no longer drops when vacuum is applied.
8. Start the engine and cycle the steering wheel lock-to-lock three times.
NOTE: Do not hold the steering wheel at the stops.
9. Stop the engine and check for leaks at all connections.

10. Check for any signs of air in the reservoir and check the fluid level. If air is present, repeat the procedure
as necessary.
SPECIAL TOOLS
STEERING COLUMN
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Fig. 4: Puller C-3894-A

Fig. 5: Puller L-4407-A

COLUMN
DESCRIPTION
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STEERING COLUMN
NOTE: The steering column on vehicles with an automatic transmission may not be
equipped with an internal locking shaft that allows the ignition key cylinder to
be locked with the key. Alternative methods of locking the steering wheel for
service will have to be used.
The steering column has been designed to be serviced as an assembly. The column is connected to the steering
gear with a one piece shaft. The upper half has a support bearing mounted to a bracket. The bracket mounts to
the frame rail with two nuts. The shaft is serviceable. The key cylinder, switches, clock spring, trim shrouds and
steering wheel are serviced separately.
OPERATION
STEERING COLUMN
Safety goggles should be worn at all times when working on steering columns.
To service the steering wheel, switches or airbag, refer to RESTRAINTS - SERVICE INFORMATION and
follow all WARNINGS and CAUTIONS.
WARNING: The airbag system is a sensitive, complex electro-mechanical unit. Before

attempting to diagnose, remove or install the airbag system components
you must first disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable.
Then wait two minutes for the system capacitor to discharge. Failure to
do so could result in accidental deployment of the airbag and possible
personal injury. The fasteners, screws, and bolts, originally used for the
airbag components, have special coatings and are specifically designed
for the airbag system. They must never be replaced with any substitutes.
Anytime a new fastener is needed, replace with the correct fasteners
provided in the service package or fasteners listed in the parts books.
REMOVAL
STEERING COLUMN
1. Position front wheels straight ahead.

2. Remove and isolate the negative ground cable from the battery.
3. Remove the airbag, refer to REMOVAL .
NOTE: If equipped with cruise control, disconnect clock spring harness from the
cruise switch harness on the steering wheel.
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Fig. 6: Steering Wheel Puller

1 - PULLER C-3894-A
2 - STEERING WHEEL
4. Remove the steering wheel (2) with puller C-3894-A (1) or an appropriate puller. See Fig. 6. See
REMOVAL.
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5. Remove steering column opening cover, refer to REMOVAL .
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Fig. 8: Removing/Installing Shroud

1 - Upper Shroud
2 - Lower Shroud
6. Remove screws from the lower column shroud (2) and remove both the upper and lower shrouds. See
Fig. 8.
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Fig. 9: Steering Column Bolts

7. Turn ignition key to the on position.

8. If vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission, disconnect shifter interlock cable from the column.
9. Remove the steering coupler bolt and column mounting nuts (2) then lower column (1) off the mounting
studs.
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Fig. 10: Identifying Wiring Harness Column, Multi-Function Switch, Ignition Switch & Steering
Column
1 - Column Wiring Harness

2 - Multi-function Switch
3 - Ignition Switch
4 - Steering Column
10. Disconnect and remove the wiring harness (1) from the column. See Fig. 10.
11. Slide the shifter interlock cable from the tie straps.
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Fig. 11: Identifying Tilt Lever, Ignition Switch, Clockspring, Steering Column & Skim/Skreem
1 - Tilt Lever
2 - Ignition Switch
3 - Clockspring
4 - Steering Column
5 - skim/skreem
12. Remove column (4).

13. Transfer the necessary parts if needed.
14. Remove clock spring (3), switches, (SKREEM if equipped) (5) See Fig. 11. Refer to REMOVAL .
INSTALLATION
STEERING COLUMN
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Fig. 12: Steering Column Mounting

1 - Steering Column
2 - Mounting Holes
1. Align and install column (1) into the steering coupler. See Fig. 12.
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Fig. 13: Identifying Wiring Harness Column, Multi-Function Switch, Ignition Switch & Steering
Column
1 - Column Wiring Harness

2 - Multi-function Switch
3 - Ignition Switch
4 - Steering Column
2. Install column harness (1) and connect harness to switches. See Fig. 13.
3. Reroute the shifter interlock cable through the tie straps.
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Fig. 14: Steering Column Mounting

1 - Steering Column
2 - Mounting Holes
4. Install the column (1) onto the mounting studs (2). See Fig. 12.
5. Install the two mounting nuts and the two mounting bolts all finger tight.
CAUTION: Lower nuts must be installed and tightened first then the upper nuts
in order to prevent damage to the capsules.
6. Tighten the lower mounting nuts to 17 N.m (150 in. lbs.).

7. Tighten the upper mounting nuts to 17 N.m (150 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 15: Identifying Tilt Lever, Ignition Switch, Clockspring, Steering Column & Skim/Skreem
1 - Tilt Lever
2 - Ignition Switch
3 - Clockspring
4 - Steering Column
5 - skim/skreem
8. Install the steering column coupler bolt and tighten to 53 N.m (39 ft. lbs.).
9. Reconnect the shifter interlock cable.
10. Center the clock spring (3) (if necessary) and install it on the column (4). See Fig. 15, refer to
INSTALLATION .
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Fig. 16: Removing/Installing Shroud

1 - Upper Shroud
2 - Lower Shroud
11. Snap together the column shrouds (1 & 2) and install the mounting screws. See Fig. 16.
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12. Install the steering column opening cover. Refer to INSTALLATION .
NOTE: Do not reuse the old steering wheel bolt (a new bolt must be used)
NOTE: Be certain that the steering wheel mounting bolt is tightened to the proper
torque specification to ensure proper clockspring operation.
13. Install the steering wheel and tighten bolt to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.). See INSTALLATION.
NOTE: If equipped with cruise control, connect clock spring harness to cruise
switch harness on the steering wheel.
14. Install the airbag, refer to INSTALLATION .

15. Install the negative battery terminal.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART
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SPECIFICATIONS
Steering Wheel Bolt 54 40 -
Steering Column 17 - 150
Mounting Bolts
Steering Column Coupler 53 39 -
Bolt
Intermediate Shaft Lower 12 9 106
Support Bearing Nuts
Intermediate Shaft Lower
53 39 -
Coupler Bolt
Ignition Switch Screws 2 - 17
IGNITION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
SWITCH-IGNITION
The electrical ignition switch is located on the steering column. It is used as the main on/off switching device
for most electrical components. The mechanical key cylinder is used to engage/disengage the electrical ignition
switch.
SWITCH-IGNITION
ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
For ignition switch electrical schematics, Refer to the appropriate section for the component.
MECHANICAL DIAGNOSIS (KEY DIFFICULT TO ROTATE)
Vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission and a floor mounted shifter: a cable is used to connect
the interlock device in the steering column assembly, to the transmission floor shift lever. This interlock system
is used to lock the transmission shifter in the PARK position when the key cylinder is rotated to any position. If
the ignition key is difficult to rotate to or from any position, it may not be the fault of the key cylinder or the
steering column components. The brake transmission shift interlock cable may be out of adjustment. Refer to
ADJUSTMENTS . The interlock system within the steering column is not serviceable. If repair is necessary,
the steering column assembly must be replaced. . See REMOVAL.
Vehicles equipped with a manual transmission and a floor mounted shifter: on certain models, a button is
located on the steering column behind the ignition key cylinder. The button must be manually depressed to
allow rotation of the ignition key cylinder to any position. If it is difficult to rotate the key to any position, the
lever mechanism may be defective. This mechanism is not serviceable. If repair is necessary, the steering
column assembly must be replaced. See REMOVAL.
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REMOVAL
SWITCH-IGNITION
Fig. 18: Identifying Ignition Switch Mounting Screw, Ignition Switch & Arm
1. Remove the steering column shrouds.
NOTE: The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for cylinder removal. The key
cylinder must be removed first before removing ignition switch.
2. Remove lock cylinder. See REMOVAL.

3. Remove the multi-function switch.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector at the rear of the ignition switch.
5. Remove the ignition switch mounting screw (1). Use tamper proof torx bit to remove the screw.
NOTE: Tilt arm (3) must be moved to allow removal of the switch.
6. Pull the ignition switch (2) straight out to remove from the locking tabs.
INSTALLATION
SWITCH-IGNITION
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Fig. 19: Identifying Ignition Switch & Switch In ON Position

1. Before installing ignition switch (1), rotate the slot in the switch to the ON position (2).
Fig. 20: Identifying Ignition Switch Mounting Screw, Ignition Switch & Arm
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NOTE: Tilt arm (3) must be moved to allow installation of the switch.
2. Position the switch (2) to the column and install tamper proof screw (1). Tighten screw to 2 N.m (17 in.
lbs.).
3. Connect the electrical connector to rear of ignition switch. Make sure that locking tab is fully seated into
wiring connector.
NOTE: The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for cylinder installation. The
key cylinder must be aligned with the ignition switch for installation.
4. Install the lock cylinder. See INSTALLATION.

5. Test the operation of the lock cylinder for smooth rotating.
6. Install the multi-function switch.
7. Install steering column lower cover.
KEY-IN IGNITION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
SWITCH-KEY IN IGNITION
The key-in ignition switch is integral to the ignition switch, which is mounted on the left side of the steering
column, opposite the ignition cylinder. It closes a path to ground for the instrument cluster chime warning
circuitry when the ignition key is inserted in the ignition lock cylinder and the driver door jamb switch is closed
(driver door is open). The key-in ignition switch opens the ground path when the key is removed from the
ignition cylinder.
The key-in ignition switch cannot be repaired and, if faulty or damaged, the entire ignition switch must be
replaced. See REMOVAL.
SWITCH-KEY-IN IGNITION
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, Refer to the appropriate sections on the individual components.
WARNING: On vehicles equipped with airbags, refer to electrical - passive restraint

systems before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, or
instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Failure to take the
possible personal injury.
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the steering column shrouds. Unplug the key-
in ignition switch wire harness connector from the ignition switch.
2. Check for continuity between the key-in switch sense circuit and the left front door jamb switch sense
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circuit terminals of the key-in ignition switch. There should be continuity with the key in the ignition
cylinder, and no continuity with the key removed from the ignition cylinder. If OK, go to step 3. If not
OK, replace the faulty ignition switch assembly.
3. Check for continuity between the left front door jamb switch sense circuit cavity of the key-in ignition
switch wire harness connector and a good ground. There should be continuity with the driver door open,
and no continuity with the driver door closed. If OK, see the diagnosis for Instrument Cluster in this
group. If not OK, repair the circuit to the driver door jamb switch as required.
KEY CYLINDER
REMOVAL
CYLINDER-KEY
Fig. 21: Removing Key Cylinder

The ignition key (1) must be in the key cylinder (2) for cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed
first before removing ignition switch.
1. If equipped with an automatic transmission, place shifter in PARK position.

2. Remove the shroud covers.
3. Remove the remote keyless entry (S.K.R.E.E.M) module.
4. Remove the halo ring around the cylinder.
5. Rotate key to RUN position.
6. A release pin is located on the bottom of the key cylinder (5) with the access hole on the top of the lock
cylinder housing (3).
7. Position a small screwdriver or pin punch (4) into pin access hole (5).
8. Push the pin punch (5) up while pulling key cylinder (2) from lock cylinder housing (3).
INSTALLATION
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CYLINDER-KEY
Fig. 22: Key Cylinder Install

The ignition key (1) must be in the key cylinder (2) for cylinder installation.
1. Install the key cylinder (2) into the housing (3) using care to align the end of the key cylinder with the
ignition switch.
2. Push the key cylinder (2) in until it clicks.
3. Rotate the key to the insert position.
4. Install the halo ring around the key cylinder housing.
5. Install the (S.K.R.E.E.M) module.
6. Install the shroud covers.
HOUSING-LOCK CYLINDER
REMOVAL
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Fig. 23: Removing Steering Column Control Module (SCCM) From Steering Column
1. Access and remove the Steering Column Control Module (SCCM) (3) from the steering column (2).
Refer to REMOVAL .
Fig. 24: Identifying Screw, SKREEM/WCM & Lock Cylinder Housing

2. Remove the screw (1) fastening the SKREEM/WCM (2) to the lock cylinder housing (3).
3. Unhook the SKREEM/WCM (2) retainer fingers from the lock cylinder housing (3) and remove it.
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Fig. 25: Identifying Slot, Key & Key Cylinder

4. Insert the key (2) and turn the key cylinder (3) to the RUN position.
5. Insert an appropriate tool into the slot (1) formed into the lock cylinder housing depressing the key
cylinder retaining tab.
6. Pull the key cylinder and key straight out of the lock cylinder housing as one unit.
Fig. 26: Identifying Screws & Lock Cylinder Housing

7. Using a Tamper-Proof Torx® Plus (five point) 30 bit, remove the two screws (1) fastening the lock
cylinder housing (2) to the column.
8. Remove the lock cylinder housing from the steering column.
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Fig. 27: Identifying Mounting Screw & Ignition Module

9. Remove the ignition module (2) mounting screw (1).
Fig. 28: Identifying Module & Retaining Tabs

10. Pull the module (1) straight out and off the retaining tabs (2) located on the lock cylinder housing.
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 29: Ignition Switch Removal/Installation

NOTE: Ignition module must be installed prior to lock housing installation on column.
Otherwise, the tilt lever will obstruct installation of ignition switch.
1. Ensure the ignition module is in the RUN position and the actuator shaft in the lock housing is in the
RUN position.
2. Align the ignition module with the pin (3), actuator shaft and retaining tabs (2) located on the lock
cylinder housing. Carefully install the module, snapping it into place over the retaining tabs.
Fig. 30: Identifying Ignition Module & Mounting Screw

3. Install the ignition module (2) mounting screw (1). Tighten the screw to 2 N.m (18 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 31: Identifying Screws & Lock Cylinder Housing

NOTE: Ignition module needs to be installed on lock cylinder housing before

housing installation to clear tilt lever.
4. Position the lock cylinder housing in the RUN position.

5. Align the lock cylinder housing (2) with the steering column.
6. Install the two screws (1) fastening the lock cylinder housing (2) to the column. Tighten the screws to 12
N.m (110 in. lbs.).
Fig. 32: Access Hole For Lock Cylinder Removal

7. Place the actuator in the lock cylinder housing to the RUN position (if not already there).
8. Insert the key into the key cylinder and turn the key cylinder to the RUN position.
9. Align the retaining tab on the key cylinder with the slot in the top of the lock cylinder housing.
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10. Slide the key cylinder into the lock cylinder housing until the key cylinder retaining tab locks the cylinder
into place.
11. Rotate the key back and forth (OFF to START), then remove and reinstall it, making sure the key
cylinder and lock cylinder housing operate properly.
Fig. 33: Identifying Screw, SKREEM/WCM & Lock Cylinder Housing

12. Slide the ring of the SKREEM/WCM (2) over the lock cylinder housing (3) and engage the retainer
fingers in the recesses formed on the lock cylinder housing.
13. Install the screw (1) fastening the SKREEM/WCM (2) to the lock cylinder housing (3). Tighten the screw
to 2.5 N.m (22 in. lbs.).
Fig. 34: Installing Steering Column Control Module (SCCM)

14. Install the Steering Column Control Module (SCCM) (3) and all components removed to access it. Refer
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to INSTALLATION .
15. Check operation of all steering column mounted components.
INTERMEDIATE SHAFT
REMOVAL
STEERING INTERMEDIATE SHAFT - 4.0L

2. Remove knee blocker cover and knee blocker, refer to REMOVAL .
NOTE: The steering column on vehicles with an automatic transmission may not
be equipped with an internal locking shaft that allows the ignition key
cylinder to be locked with the key. Alternative methods of locking the
steering wheel for service will have to be used.
3. Lock the steering wheel with the tires in the straight ahead position.
Fig. 35: Identifying Lower Column Pinch Bolt & Steering Coupler
4. Remove the lower column pinch bolt (2).

5. Lower the steering coupler (1) shaft from the column.
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Fig. 36: Removing/Installing Intermediate Shaft Seal By Pushing In Four Tangs Securing To Panel
6. Remove the intermediate shaft seal by pushing in the four tangs (2) securing it to the panel.
Fig. 37: Identifying Battery Tray, Power Center & Battery Terminals

8. Unclip the power center (2) and move it to the side out of the way to access the battery tray (1).
9. Remove the battery tray (1). Refer to REMOVAL .
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Fig. 38: Removing Nuts For Intermediate Shaft Support Bearing

Remove the nuts (2) for the intermediate shaft support bearing (1).
Fig. 39: Identifying Ratchet, Extension, Center Support Bearing Bracket & Shock Tower
10. Remove the center support bearing bracket (3) from the mount on the shock tower (4) using a ratchet (1)
with an extension (2).
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Fig. 40: Identifying Shock Tower Nuts

11. Remove the nuts from the shock tower if removing the bracket.
Fig. 41: Identifying Intermediate Shaft, Coupler & Lower Coupler Pinch Bolt
12. Remove the lower coupler pinch bolt (3) at the steering gear.
13. Remove the coupler (2) at the steering gear.
14. Remove the intermediate shaft (1) from the vehicle.
15. Remove the center support bearing from the steering shaft (if replacing the intermediate shaft).
STEERING INTERMEDIATE SHAFT - 3.7L & DIESEL

2. Remove knee blocker cover and knee blocker, refer to REMOVAL .
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3. Lock the steering wheel with the tires in the straight ahead position.
4. Remove the lower column pinch bolt (2).

5. Lower the steering coupler (1) shaft from the column.
6. Remove the intermediate shaft seal by pushing in the four tangs (2) securing it to the panel.
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Fig. 44: Removing Nuts For Intermediate Shaft Support Bearing

Remove the nuts (2) for the intermediate shaft support bearing (1).
7. Remove the center support bearing bracket (3) from the mount on the shock tower (4) using a ratchet (1)
with an extension (2).
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8. Remove the nuts from the shock tower if removing the bracket.
9. Remove the lower coupler pinch bolt (3) at the steering gear.
10. Remove the coupler (2) at the steering gear.
11. Remove the intermediate shaft (1) from the vehicle.
12. Remove the center support bearing from the steering shaft (if replacing the intermediate shaft).
INSTALLATION
STEERING INTERMEDIATE SHAFT - 4.0L
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1. Install the center support bearing bracket to the shock tower (if removed). Tighten to 12 N.m (106 in.lbs.).
2. Install the intermediate shaft to the vehicle and install and tighten the center support bearing to the bracket
(3) nuts.
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3. Install the coupler (2) at the steering gear.

4. Install the lower coupler pinch bolt (3) at the steering gear and tighten the bolt to 53 N.m (39 ft. lbs).
5. Install the battery tray (1). Refer to INSTALLATION .

7. Reinstall the power center (2) back into place.
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8. Install the intermediate shaft seal by pushing it in securing the four tangs (2) to the panel.
9. Install the steering coupler shaft (1) to the column.

10. Install the upper pinch bolt (2) and tighten the bolt to 53 N.m (39 ft. lbs.).
11. Unlock the steering wheel.
12. Install the knee blocker cover and knee blocker. Refer to INSTALLATION .
STEERING INTERMEDIATE SHAFT - 3.7L & DIESEL
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1. Install the center support bearing bracket to the shock tower (if removed). Tighten to 12 N.m (106 in.lbs.).
2. Install the intermediate shaft to the vehicle and install and tighten the center support bearing to the bracket
(3) nuts.
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3. Install the coupler (2) at the steering gear.

4. Install the lower coupler pinch bolt (3) at the steering gear and tighten the bolt to 53 N.m (39 ft. lbs).
5. Install the intermediate shaft seal by pushing it in securing the four tangs (2) to the panel.
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6. Install the steering coupler shaft (1) to the column.

7. Install the upper pinch bolt (2) and tighten the bolt to 53 N.m (39 ft. lbs.).
9. Install the knee blocker cover and knee blocker. Refer to INSTALLATION .
STEERING WHEEL
REMOVAL
STEERING WHEEL
1. Disable and remove the drivers side airbag. Refer to REMOVAL .

2. Partially remove the steering wheel bolt and leave the bolt in the column.
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Fig. 59: Identifying OTC® 7929A Jaws, L-4407A Puller & Puller Jaws
3. Install puller special tool L-4407A puller (2) with OTC® 7929A jaws (1) or equivalent using the top of
the bolt (3) to push on.
NOTE: Ensure the puller jaws (1) are seated in the pockets of the steering wheel
armature.
4. Remove the steering wheel.
INSTALLATION
STEERING WHEEL
NOTE: Do not reuse the old steering wheel bolt (a new bolt must be used)
1. Install steering wheel to the column
NOTE: Be certain that the steering wheel mounting bolt is tightened to the proper
torque specification to ensure proper clockspring operation.
2. Install the new steering wheel bolt. Tighten the bolt to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the drivers side air bag. Refer to INSTALLATION .
GEAR
DESCRIPTION
RACK & PINION STEERING GEAR
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Fig. 60: Rack & Pinion Steering Gear

1 - TIE ROD - INNER

2 - TIE ROD - INNER
3 - TIE ROD END - OUTER LH
4 - BOOTS
5 - TIE ROD END - OUTER RH
A rack and pinion steering gear is made up of two main components, the pinon shaft and the rack. The gear
cannot be adjusted or internally serviced. If a malfunction or a fluid leak occurs, the gear must be replaced as an
assembly, With the exception of the outer tie rods (3 & 5) which are serviced separately. See Fig. 60.
OPERATION
The steering column intermediate shaft is attached to the gear pinion. The rotation of the pinion moves the gear
rack from side-to-side. This lateral action of the rack pushes and pulls the tie rods, which are connected to the
steering knuckles to change the direction of the front wheels.
POWER STEERING GEAR
NOTE: This information is designed to be used in conjunction with the diagnostic

charts at the beginning of the article. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
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OBJECTIONABLE HISS OR WHISTLE POSSIBLY CAUSED BY A NOISY STEERING GEAR
1. Check and adjust power steering fluid level in the reservoir as necessary. See STANDARD
PROCEDURE.
2. Start the vehicle and heat system by steering lock-to-lock 5 times with the engine running at 3000 RPM.
Do not hold the gear against the stops for more than 5 seconds at a time.
3. Return the engine to idle speed.
4. Listen for the noise when turning the wheel slowly off center during a dry park maneuver.
5. Replace power steering gear if the hiss or whistle is present. See REMOVAL.
REMOVAL
RACK & PINION - 2WD
1. Siphon the power steering fluid from the power steering reservoir.
2. Lock the steering wheel to prevent spinning of the clockspring.

NOTE: Mark the alignment adjusting cams and tie rod end jam nuts on the
steering gear for easier installation.
5. Remove the tie rod end nuts.

6. Separate tie rod ends from the knuckles with Puller C-3894-A.
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Fig. 61: Removing/Installing Lower Intermediate Shaft Coupler Pinch Bolt And Sliding Coupler
Off/On Gear
7. Remove the lower intermediate shaft coupler pinch bolt and slide the coupler off the gear.
Fig. 62: Identifying Power Steering Lines & Gear

8. Remove the power steering lines (1 & 2) from the gear (3).
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Fig. 63: Identifying Steering Gear & Gear Mounting Bolts

9. Remove the mounting bolts (2) from the gear (1) to the front cradle.
10. Remove the steering gear (1) from the vehicle.
RACK & PINION - 4WD
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3. Disconnect the battery (3).

Off/On Gear
7. Remove the lower intermediate shaft coupler pinch bolt and slide the coupler off the gear.
NOTE: Mark the alignment adjusting cams and tie rod end jam nuts on the
steering gear for easier installation.

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12. Remove the power steering lines (1&2) from the gear (3).

14. Remove the left front lower suspension arm cam/bolt and lower the control arm enough to get the axle
mounting bracket bolt out.This must be done to remove the axle mounting bracket.
15. Remove the axle mounting bracket.
16. Remove the oil filter and trough.
17. Put the steering gear in the full right position and lower the gear out of the vehicle.
RACK & PINION - 4.0L

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4. Remove air cleaner housing. Refer to REMOVAL .
5. Remove the washer/coolant reservoir assembly.
6. Remove the fan shroud.
7. Remove the pressure and return lines at the gear.
8. Remove the front tire and wheel assemblies.
9. Remove the front axle. Refer to REMOVAL .
Off/On Gear
12. Remove the intermediate shaft (3) lower coupler pinch bolt (1) and slide the coupler (3) off the gear (2).
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13. Remove the power steering lines (1&2) from the gear (3).

INSTALLATION
RACK & PINION - 4.0L
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1. Transfer the tie rod ends to the new steering gear (if needed).
2. Install the steering gear (1) to the vehicle.
3. Install the gear mounting bolts (2) to the front cradle. Tighten the gear mounting bolts to 176 N.m (130
ft.lbs.).

4. Install the power steering lines (1&2) to the gear (3), tighten the tube nuts to 27 N.m (20 ft.lbs.).
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Off/On Gear
5. Install the lower coupler bolt and slide the coupler on to the gear and tighten the bolt to 53 N.m (39 ft.
lbs)
6. Install the tie rod end to the knuckle and tighten the nuts to 41 N.m (30 ft.lbs.) Plus an additional 90° turn.
7. Install the front axle. Refer to INSTALLATION .
11. Fill the power steering fluid. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
12. Reset the toe and center the steering wheel. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
RACK & PINION - 2WD
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1. Transfer the outer tie rod ends to the new steering gear (if needed).
ft.lbs.).

4. Install the power steering lines (1&2) to the gear (1). Tighten the tube nuts to 27 N.m (20 ft.lbs.).
Off/On Gear
5. Install the lower coupler pinch bolt and slide the coupler on to the gear. Tighten to 53 N.m (39 ft.lbs.).
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8. Install the skid plate. Refer to INSTALLATION .
RACK & PINION - 4WD

1. Transfer the outer tie rod ends to the new steering gear (if needed).
ft.lbs.).
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4. Install the power steering lines (1 & 2) to the gear (3). Tighten the tube nuts to 27 N.m (20 ft.lbs.).
5. Install the oil filter trough and filter.
6. Install the axle mounting bracket.
7. Install the left lower control arm into position and install the cam/bolt.
Off/On Gear
11. Install the lower coupler pinch bolt and slide the coupler on to the gear. Tighten to 53 N.m (39 ft.lbs.).
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15. Reconnect the battery cables (3).
18. Perform a wheel alignment. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
SPECIFICATIONS
Rack and Pinion Steering 176 130 -
Gear to Frame Bolts
Rack and Pinion Steering 53 39 -
Gear Intermediate Shaft
Bolt
Intermediate Shaft Lower
12 9 106
Support Bearing Nuts
Tie Rod End Knuckle 41 Plus an additional 90° 30 Plus an additional 90° -
Nut turn turn
Tie Rod End Jam Nut 75 55 -
Power Steering Line 27 20 -
Pressure Line
Power Steering Line 27 20 -
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Return Line
SPECIAL TOOLS
Fig. 81: Puller C-3894-A

LINKAGE
TIE ROD END
TIE ROD
Tie rod free-play can be measured using the following hand methods:
NOTE: When checking free-play, DO NOT rotate the tie rod. Just because a tie rod
rotates easily, it is not necessarily faulty.
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NOTE: Always check and repair (if necessary) outer tie rod free-play before checking
inner tie rod free-play. False results can otherwise be obtained.
OUTER TIE ROD
Fig. 82: Checking Outer Tie Rod Free Play

Grasp the outer tie rod near the ball stud and attempt to move the tie rod straight up and down. If any free-play
is felt, replace the outer tie rod. See REMOVAL. If no free-play is felt at the outer tie rod, attempt to move the
inner tie rod in the same manner. Refer to the following procedure.
INNER TIE ROD
Fig. 83: Checking Inner Tie Rod Free Play

Grasp the inner tie rod near the steering gear bellows and attempt to move the tie rod straight up and down. If
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any free-play is felt, replace the steering gear. See REMOVAL.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STEERING LINKAGE
The tie rod end and ball stud seals should be inspected during all oil changes. If a seal is damaged, replace the
tie rod.
CAUTION: If any steering components are replaced or serviced an alignment must be

performed, to ensure the vehicle meets all alignment specifications.
REMOVAL
OUTER TIE ROD END
Fig. 84: Identifying Outer Tie Rod End & Nut


NOTE: Mark the outer to inner tie rod end for easier installation.
3. Loosen the tie rod end jam nut.

4. Remove the outer tie rod end nut (2).
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Fig. 85: Identifying Outer Tie Rod End, Knuckle & Tool 9360
NOTE: Never use anything other than the specified tool to disassemble the ball
joints & tie rods from the steering knuckle. Ball joint seal or knuckle
damage can result.
5. Separate the outer tie rod end (1) from the knuckle (3) using tool 9360 (2).
NOTE: Count the number of turns when removing.
6. Remove the outer tie rod end (1) from the inner tie rod.
INSTALLATION
OUTER TIE ROD END
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1. Install the outer tie rod end (1) to the inner tie rod end to the exact number of turns that it was removed.
2. Install the outer tie rod end (1) to the knuckle. Tighten the nut (2) to 41 N.m (30 ft.lbs.) Plus an additional
90° turn.
3. Tighten the jam nut to 75 N.m (55 ft.lbs).
PUMP
DESCRIPTION
2.8L POWER STEERING PUMP
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Fig. 87: Power Steering Pump

Hydraulic pressure for the power steering system is provided by a belt driven power steering pump. The pump
shaft has a bolt-on drive pulley that is belt driven by the crankshaft pulley. The reservoir is separate from the
pump body. The power steering pump is connected to the steering gear by the pressure and return hoses.
3.7L POWER STEERING PUMP
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Fig. 88: Power Steering Pump Assembly

1 - RESERVOIR
2 - CAP
3 - PULLEY
4 - PUMP BODY
5 - RESERVOIR RETAINING CLIPS
Hydraulic pressure for the power steering system is provided by a belt driven power steering pump (4). See Fig.
88. The pump shaft has a pressed-on high strength plastic drive pulley (3) that is belt driven by the crankshaft
pulley.
4.0L
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Fig. 89: Identifying Drive Pulley, Reservoir & Power Steering Pump
Hydraulic pressure for the power steering system is provided by a belt driven power steering pump (4). The
pump shaft has a pressed-on high strength plastic drive pulley (1) that is belt driven by the crankshaft pulley.
The integral reservoir (2) used on the 4.0L is attached to the pump body (4).
OPERATION
POWER STEERING PUMP
The power steering pump is a constant flow rate and displacement, vane-type pump. The pump internal parts
operate submerged in fluid. The flow control orifice is part of the high pressure line fitting. The pressure relief
valve inside the flow control valve limits the pump pressure.
NOTE: Power steering pumps have different pressure rates and are not
interchangeable with other pumps.
POWER STEERING PUMP AND HOSES
NOTE: This information is designed to be used in conjunction with the diagnostic

charts at the beginning of the article. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
CHECKING FOR WEAR OF POWER STEERING PUMP INTERNAL COMPONENTS
1. Place gear selector in PARK (or NEUTRAL) with wheels chalked.

2. With the engine idling, have a helper turn the steering wheel.
3. Using an electronic listening tool, determine if noise is coming from the pump.
4. Increase the engine speed and have a helper turn the steering wheel. Does the noise change with load?
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5. Replace the power steering pump if excessive noise is present. See REMOVAL.
CHECKING FOR POWER STEERING HOSES TOUCHING BODY OR FRAME OF VEHICLE
Check hoses and hose tubes as following:
Inspect hoses and hose tubes for witness marks. If witness marks are present, adjust hose(s) to the proper
position by loosening, repositioning and tightening attachments to the specified torque. See
SPECIFICATIONS. Do not bend tubing to adjust. Replace the hose assembly if damaged.
Check fastener torque of hose mounting brackets and tube nuts. See SPECIFICATIONS.
Have a helper bump the steering gear off of the stops to induce pressure fluctuations which may move the
hose. If hose contact is made, adjust hose(s) to the proper position by loosening, repositioning and
tightening attachments to the specified torque. See SPECIFICATIONS. Do not bend tubing to adjust.
Replace the hose assembly if damaged.
REMOVAL
POWER STEERING PUMP - 4.0L ENGINE
1. Siphon out as much power steering fluid as possible.

Fig. 90: Identifying Power Steering Belt, Pressure Line & Power Steering Pump Mounting Bolts
5. Remove power steering belt (2). Refer to REMOVAL .

6. Remove pressure line (2) at the pump.
7. Remove return line at the reservoir.
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8. Remove three pump mounting bolts (3) through pump pulley.

9. Remove pump from the vehicle.
10. If pulley needs removal, see REMOVAL.
POWER STEERING PUMP - 2.8L DIESEL
Fig. 91: Identifying Pump, Pressure Power Steering Hoses, Serpentine Belt & Supply Hose

3. Remove the turbo air inlet tube.
4. Remove the serpentine drive belt (3). Refer to REMOVAL .
5. Remove the power steering hoses (2 & 4).
Fig. 92: Identifying Pump, Bolts & Pulley Access Holes
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6. Remove the three bolts (2) securing the pump (1) to the engine through the pulley access holes (3).
7. Remove the pump (1) from the vehicle.
POWER STEERING PUMP - 3.7L
Fig. 93: Power Steering Pump - 3.7L

1 - MOUNTING BOLTS
2 - RESERVOIR
3 - STEEL PULLEY
2. Remove the serpentine drive belt. Refer to REMOVAL .

3. Remove the power steering high pressure hose at the pump.
4. Remove the return hose at the pump.
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5. Remove the three bolts (1) securing the pump to the engine through the holes in the pulley (3).
6. Remove the pump from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
POWER STEERING PUMP - 2.8L DIESEL
Fig. 94: Identifying Pump, Bolts & Pulley Access Holes

1. Install the pump (1) to the vehicle.

2. Install the three bolts securing the pump (1) to the engine through the access holes (3) and tighten to 28
N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 95: Identifying Pump, Pressure Power Steering Hoses, Serpentine Belt & Supply Hose
3. Install the pressure power steering hoses (2). Tighten to 31 N.m (23 ft. lbs.).
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4. Reclamp the supply hose (4) to the pump (1).

5. Install the serpentine belt (3). Refer to INSTALLATION .
6. Install the air inlet tube.
8. Refill the power steering fluid and bleed the system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
POWER STEERING PUMP - 3.7L
Fig. 96: Power Steering Pump - 3.7L

1 - MOUNTING BOLTS
2 - RESERVOIR
3 - STEEL PULLEY
1. Install the pump to the vehicle.

2. Install the three bolts (1) securing the pump to the engine Tighten the bolts to 28 N.m (21 ft.lbs.). See Fig.
96.
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3. Install the power steering hoses. Tighten to 27 N.m (20 ft.lbs.).

4. Install the serpentine belt. Refer to INSTALLATION .
5. Refill the power steering fluid and check for leaks. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
POWER STEERING PUMP - 4.0L ENGINE
Fig. 97: Identifying Power Steering Belt, Pressure Line & Power Steering Pump Mounting Bolts
1. Install power steering pump back in engine compartment using reverse order of its removal.
2. Install three power steering pump mounting bolts (3) through pulley. Tighten pump mounting bolts to 28
N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Before installing power steering pressure hose on power steering pump,
replace O-ring on end of power steering pressure hose. Lubricate O-ring
using clean power steering fluid.
3. Install pressure line (2) into pump. Thread pressure line tube nut into pump and tighten to 27 N.m (20 ft.
lbs.).
4. Install return line into the reservoir.
5. Install power steering belt (1). Refer to INSTALLATION .
6. Install the fan shroud.
7. Install the washer/coolant reservoir assembly.
9. Fill and bleed power steering system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
10. Inspect for leaks.
SPECIFICATIONS
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Power Steering Pump to 28 21 250
Engine
Power Steering Pump 47 35 -
Bracket to Engine
(DIESEL)
Power Steering Remote
12 9 105
Reservoir (DIESEL)
Power Steering to Pump 31 23 275
Pressure Line
Power Steering Pump 20 14 175
Pressure Line Bracket to
Body (DIESEL)
Power Steering Remote
Reservoir Mounting 12 9 105
Bracket Screw (DIESEL)
Power Steering Pulley to
28 21 250
Pump (DIESEL)
Power Steering Fluid
4 3 35
Cooler Screws
SPECIAL TOOLS
POWER STEERING PUMP
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Fig. 98: Power Steering Pressure Analyzer Set 6815

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Fig. 99: Power Steering Flow/Pressure Tester 6893 Adapters

Fig. 100: Puller C-4333

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Fig. 101: Installer C-4063B

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Fig. 102: Reservoir Vacuum Plug - 9688

FLUID
DESCRIPTION
ATF+4, TYPE 9602
The recommended fluid for the power steering system is Mopar® ATF +4.
Mopar® ATF+4, when new is red in color. The ATF+4 is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used
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in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid
condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF+4 will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become
brown. THIS IS NORMAL. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor and
color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
POWER STEERING FLUID LEVEL CHECKING
WARNING: The fluid level should be checked with engine off to prevent injury from
moving components.
CAUTION: MOPAR® ATF+4 is to be used in the power steering system. No other

power steering or automatic transmission fluid is to be used in the system.
Damage may result to the power steering pump and system if any other
fluid is used, and do not overfill.
NOTE: Power steering reservoir does not contain a dipstick. Fluid level indicators are
molded into the side of the reservoir WITH REMOTE RESERVOIR.
The power steering fluid level can be viewed on the dipstick attached to the filler cap. Before opening power
steering system, wipe the reservoir filler cap free of dirt and debris. Remove the cap and check the fluid level on
its dipstick. When the fluid is at normal ambient temperature, approximately 21°C to 27°C (70°F to 80°F), the
fluid level should read between the minimum and maximum on dipstick (GAS) or Reservoir (DIESEL). Only
add fluid when the vehicle is cold.
Use only Mopar® ATF+4 . Do not overfill the power steering system.
FLUID COOLER
DESCRIPTION
FLUID COOLER
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Fig. 103: Fluid Cooler With Hoses

The power steering fluid cooler (2) is located at the front of the vehicle. It is mounted in front of the vehicle and
just rearward of the front fascia. The cooler is positioned so it is in the air flow through the front fascia of the
vehicle. The cooler can be serviced without the return hoses (1).
OPERATION
POWER STEERING FLUID COOLER
Fig. 104: Fluid Cooler With Hoses

The purpose of the power steering fluid cooler (2) is to keep the temperature of the power steering system fluid
from rising to a level that would affect the performance of the power steering system.
The cooler used on this vehicle is referred to as a fluid-to-air type cooler. This means that the air flow across the
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fin/tubes of the cooler is used to extract the heat from the cooler which it has absorbed from the power steering
fluid flowing through it. The cooler is placed in series with the power steering fluid return line, between the
steering gear and the power steering fluid reservoir. This lowers the temperature of the power steering fluid
prior to it entering the power steering fluid reservoir where it is resupplied to the power steering pump.
REMOVAL
FLUID COOLER
Fig. 105: Identifying Cooler, Hose Clamps & Mounting Screws

1. Siphon the power steering fluid.

3. Remove the hose clamps (2) from the cooler lines.
4. Remove the 3 mounting screws (3) for the cooler (1).
Fig. 106: Identifying Cooler & Front Fascia

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5. Remove the front fascia push pins and lower the fascia (2) to remove the cooler (1) from the bottom.
INSTALLATION
FLUID COOLER
Fig. 107: Identifying Cooler & Front Fascia

1. Install the cooler (1) from the bottom between the front fascia (2) and core support.
2. Install the front fascia push pins.

3. Install the 3 mounting screws (3) for the cooler (1). Tighten to 4 N.m (35 in. lbs.).
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4. Install and reclamp (2) the cooler hoses to the cooler (1) using new crimp clamps.
6. Refill the power steering fluid. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
HOSES
REMOVAL
RETURN GEAR TO COOLER


6. Remove the hose clamp (2) for the return hose from the cooler (1).
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Fig. 110: Identifying Return Hose Assembly & Routing Clip

7. Remove the return hose at the steering gear.

8. Remove the return hose routing clip (1).
9. Remove the hose/line from the vehicle.
PRESSURE HOSE

2. Remove air cleaner housing. Refer to REMOVAL . . Refer to REMOVAL .
5. Remove power steering belt. Refer to REMOVAL .
Fig. 111: Pressure Hose

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6. Remove pressure hose (3) at the pump.

7. Remove the pressure hose (2) from the gear.
Fig. 112: Pressure Hose & Mounting Bolts

8. Remove the pressure hose (1) mounting bolts (2) to the frame.
9. Remove the pressure hose (1) from the vehicle.
RETURN LINE DIESEL
Fig. 113: Identifying Reservoir, Return Hose, Gear & Bracket Bolts
1. Siphon the power steering fluid from the reservoir.

3. Remove the return hose (2) at the reservoir (1).
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4. Remove the return line at the gear (4).

5. Remove the return line mounting bracket bolts (3) at the frame.
6. Remove the return hose (2) from the vehicle.
PRESSURE HOSE - DIESEL
Fig. 114: Identifying Pressure Line, Pump, Bracket Bolts & Gear
1. Siphon the power steering fluid from the reservoir.

3. Remove the pressure line (1) at the pump (2).
5. Remove the pressure line mounting bracket bolts (3) at the frame.
6. Remove the pressure line at the gear (4)
7. Remove the pressure hose (1) from the vehicle.
RETURN COOLER TO RESERVOIR
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Fig. 115: Identifying Reservoir & Return Hose

1. Siphon the power steering fluid.

2. Remove the return hose (2) from the reservoir (1).

4. Remove the hose clamp (2) for the cooler to reservoir hose from the cooler (1).
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5. Remove the return hose assembly from the routing clip (1).
6. Remove the 3 push pins and lower the front fascia.
7. Remove the hose from the vehicle.
SUPPLY HOSE -DIESEL
Fig. 118: Identifying Reservoir, Supply Hoses & Pump

1. Siphon the power steering fluid from the reservoir (1).

3. Remove the supply hose (2) at the reservoir (1).
4. Remove the supply hose (3) at the pump (4).
5. Remove the supply hose (5) from the vehicle.
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INSTALLATION
RETURN GEAR TO COOLER

1. Install the return hose/line at the mounting clip (1).

2. Install return hose to the steering gear.

3. Install return hose to the cooler (1) and reclamp (2) with a new crimp clamp.
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RETURN LINE DIESEL
Fig. 121: Identifying Reservoir, Return Hose, Gear & Bracket Bolts
1. Install the return hose (2) to the vehicle

2. Install the return hose mounting bracket bolts (3) to the frame.
3. Install the return hose at the gear (4).
4. Install the return hose (2) at the reservoir (1).
5. Install the airbox. Refer to INSTALLATION .
6. Refill the power steering fluid.
7. Bleed the power steering system. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
8. Check for leaks.
SUPPLY HOSE DIESEL
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Fig. 122: Identifying Reservoir, Supply Hoses & Pump

1. Install the supply hose (5) to the reservoir (1) and pump (4).
2. Reclamp the supply hose at the pump (3).
3. Reclamp the supply hose at the reservoir (2).
7. Check for leaks.
PRESSURE HOSE
Fig. 123: Pressure Hose

1. Install the pressure hose (2) at the gear.

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2. Install pressure line (3) into pump. Thread pressure line tube nut into pump and tighten to 31 N.m (275 in.
lbs.).
Fig. 124: Pressure Hose & Mounting Bolts

3. Install the pressure hose mounting bolts (2) to the frame. Tighten to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
4. Install power steering belt. Refer to INSTALLATION .
RETURN COOLER TO RESERVOIR
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1. Install the hose to the vehicle.

2. Install the 3 push pins and install the front fascia into position.
3. Install the hose to the cooler (1) and reclamp (2) with a new hose crimp clamp.

4. Install the return hose assembly routing clip (1).
Fig. 127: Identifying Reservoir & Return Hose

5. Install a new hose clamp for the cooler to reservoir hose (2) to the reservoir (1).
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PRESSURE HOSE - DIESEL
Fig. 128: Identifying Pressure Line, Pump, Bracket Bolts & Gear
1. Install the pressure hose (1) to the vehicle.

2. Install the pressure hose mounting bracket bolts (3) to the frame.
3. Install the pressure hose at the gear (4).
4. Install the pressure line (1) at the pump (2).
8. Check for leaks.
PULLEY
REMOVAL
PULLEY- GAS ENGINE
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Fig. 129: Removing Pulley

CAUTION: Do not reuse the old power steering pump pulley it is not intended for
reuse. A new pulley must be installed if removed.

4. Remove power steering belt. Refer to REMOVAL .
5. Remove the pulley (2) from the pump using (OTC® 7185) power steering pulley removal tool or
equivalent (3).
PULLEY - DIESEL ENGINE
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Fig. 130: Identifying Pulley, Serpentine Drive Belt, Bolts & Pump
1. Remove the air cleaner box. Refer to REMOVAL .

2. Remove the air inlet tube.
3. Remove the serpentine drive belt (2).
4. Remove the three bolts (3) securing the pulley (1) to the pump (4).
INSTALLATION
PULLEY - DIESEL ENGINE
Fig. 131: Identifying Pulley, Serpentine Drive Belt, Bolts & Pump
1. Install the pulley (1) to the pump shaft.

2. Install the three bolts (3) securing the pulley (1) to the pump (4). Tighten to 47 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).
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3. Install the serpentine belt (2).

4. Install the air inlet tube.
5. Install the air cleaner box. Refer to INSTALLATION .
PULLEY - GAS ENGINE
Fig. 132: Identifying Pump, Pulley & Installation Tool

CAUTION: Do not reuse the old power steering pump pulley it is not intended for
reuse. A new pulley must be installed if removed.
1. Replace the pulley (2) if it's bent, cracked, or loose.

2. Install the pulley (2) on the pump (1) using (OTC ® 7771) power steering pulley installation tool or
equivalent (3) making sure it is flush with the end of the shaft. Ensure the tool and pulley remain aligned
with the pump shaft.
3. Install the air box assembly. Refer to INSTALLATION .
4. Install power steering belt. Refer to INSTALLATION .
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RESERVOIR
DESCRIPTION
RESERVOIR
Fig. 133: Fluid Reservoir

Only the diesel engine reservoir (1) is serviced separately. The 3.7L & 4.0L power steering reservoirs are not
serviced separately from the pump.
REMOVAL
FLUID RESERVOIR - DIESEL
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Fig. 134: Identifying Reservoir, Power Steering Hoses & Reservoir


2. Remove the power steering hoses (2).
3. Remove the bolt securing the reservoir (3) to the mounting bracket.
4. Remove the reservoir (1).
INSTALLATION
FLUID RESERVOIR - DIESEL
Fig. 135: Identifying Fluid Reservoir & Return Hoses

1 - FLUID RESERVOIR
2 - RETURN HOSES
1. Install the reservoir (1) to the mounting bracket.

2. Install and tighten the bolt to 12 N.m (9 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the hoses (2).
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4. Refill the power steering fluid and check for leaks. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
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2007 SUSPENSION Suspension - Nitro
2007 SUSPENSION
Suspension - Nitro

SUSPENSION AND STEERING SYSTEM

FRONT END NOISE 1. Loose or worn wheel bearings. 1. Replace wheel bearings.
2. Loose or worn steering or 2. Tighten or replace components as
suspension components. necessary.
EXCESSIVE PLAY IN 1. Loose or worn wheel bearings. 1. Replace wheel bearings.
STEERING 2. Loose or worn steering or 2. Tighten or replace components as
3. Loose or worn steering gear. 3. Adjust or replace steering gear.
FRONT WHEELS 1. Loose or worn wheel bearings. 1. Replace wheel bearings.
SHIMMY 2. Loose or worn steering or 2. Tighten or replace components as
3. Tires worn or out of balance. 3. Replace or balance tires.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
VEHICLE INSTABILITY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearings. 1. Replace wheel bearings.
2. Loose or worn steering or 2. Tighten or replace components as
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
EXCESSIVE STEERING 1. Loose or worn steering gear. 1. Adjust or replace steering gear.
EFFORT 2. Power steering fluid low. 2. Add fluid and repair leak.
3. Column coupler binding. 3. Replace coupler.
VEHICLE PULLS TO 1. Uneven tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
ONE SIDE DURING 2. Worn brake components. 2. Repair brakes as necessary.
BRAKING 3. Air in brake line. 3. Repair as necessary.
VEHICLE LEADS OR 1. Radial tire lead. 1. Cross front tires.
DRIFTS FROM 2. Brakes dragging. 2. Repair brake as necessary.
STRAIGHT AHEAD 3. Weak or broken spring. 3. Replace spring.
DIRECTION ON 4. Uneven tire pressure. 4. Adjust tire pressure.
UNCROWNED ROAD
5. Wheel Alignment. 5. Align vehicle.
6. Loose or worn steering or 6. Repair as necessary.
suspension components.
7. Cross caster out of spec. 7. Align vehicle.
KNOCKING, RATTLING 1. Worn shock bushings. 1. Replace shock.
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OR SQUEAKING 2. Loose, worn or bent 2. Inspect, tighten or replace components

steering/suspension components. as necessary.
3. Shock valve. 3. Replace shock.
IMPROPER TRACKING Loose, worn or bent Inspect, tighten or replace components as
steering/suspension components. necessary.
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WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
NOTE: Suspension components with rubber/urethane bushings should be tightened

with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is important to have the springs
supporting the weight of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If springs
are not at their normal ride position, vehicle ride comfort could be affected and
premature bushing wear may occur.
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Fig. 1: Wheel Alignment Measurements - Caster, Camber, Toe & Thrust Angle
1 - FRONT OF VEHICLE
2 - STEERING AXIS INCLINATION
3 - PIVOT POINT
4 - TOE-IN
Wheel alignment involves the correct positioning of the wheels in relation to the vehicle. The positioning is
accomplished through suspension and steering linkage adjustments. An alignment is considered essential for
efficient steering, good directional stability and to minimize tire wear. The most important measurements of an
alignment are caster, camber and toe.
CAUTION: Never attempt to modify suspension or steering components by heating or

bending.
NOTE: Periodic lubrication of the front suspension/steering system components may

be required. Rubber bushings must never be lubricated. Refer to LUBRICATION
& MAINTENANCE for the recommended maintenance schedule.
OPERATION
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
CASTER is the forward or rearward tilt of the steering knuckle from vertical. Tilting the top of the
knuckle forward provides negative caster. Tilting the top of the knuckle rearward provides positive caster.
Positive caster promotes directional stability. This angle enables the front wheels to return to a straight
ahead position after turns. See Fig. 1
CAMBER is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel relative to the center of the vehicle. Tilting the top of
the wheel inward provides negative camber. Tilting the top of the wheel outward provides positive
camber. Incorrect camber will cause wear on the inside or outside edge of the tire. See Fig. 1
TOE is the difference between the leading inside edges and trailing inside edges of the front tires. Wheel
toe position out of specification cause's unstable steering, uneven tire wear and steering wheel off- center.
The wheel toe position is the final front wheel alignment adjustment. See Fig. 1
THRUST ANGLE is the angle of the rear axle relative to the centerline of the vehicle. Incorrect thrust
angle can cause off-center steering and excessive tire wear. This angle is not adjustable, damaged
component(s) must be replaced to correct the thrust angle. See Fig. 1
STANDARD PROCEDURE
HEIGHT MEASUREMENT
CURB HEIGHT
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NOTE: The suspension is non-adjustable.
The vehicle suspension height should be measured before performing wheel alignment procedure. Also when
front suspension components have been replaced. This measure must be performed with the vehicle supporting
it's own weight and taken on both sides of the vehicle.
Front and rear curb heights are not adjustable. The spring selections at assembly determine curb height for
acceptable appearance of the vehicle. Curb height dimensions assume full fluids (including fuel) and zero
passengers. Refer to the table below for front curb height dimensions.
Vehicle curb height audits should be performed utilizing the following procedure:
1. Drive the vehicle straight and forward on a non-tacky surface for a minimum of 20 feet to neutralize track
width.
2. Bounce the front of the vehicle five times.
3. Measure and record the dimensions
Fig. 2: Front Curb Height

4. Front - On each side of the vehicle, measure the distance from the center of the front lower control arm
bushing bolt (1) to the ground (3) Record the measurement . Next measure the distance from the spindle
center (2) to the ground (3) Record the measurement.
5. Take the two measurements and subtract them to get the curb height specification.
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Fig. 3: Identifying Jounce Cup & Strike Surface

REAR CURB HEIGHT
Rear curb height is defined by the relative vertical distance between the top of the lower spring seat strike
surface and the bottom of the jounce cup (true metal to metal jounce travel). This is to be measured vertically
inside the coil from the point intersecting the inboard edge and the for/aft center of the jounce cup (1) down to
the strike surface (2).
CURB HEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS

FRONT CROSS REAR CROSS
MODEL FRONT REAR
HEIGHT (LEFT - RIGHT)
62 mm ± 10 mm 0 mm ± 7mm 107 mm ± 10 mm 0 mm ± 7mm
ALL
2.44 in. ± 0.39 in 0 in. ± 0.27 in 4.21 in. ± 0.39 in. 0 in. ± 0.27 in.
COMPLETE WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Fig. 4: Identifying Lower Control Arm, Control Arm Pivot Bolts & Rail Brackets
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Camber and caster angle adjustments involve changing the position of the lower suspension arm cam bolts (3).
CASTER
Moving the rear position of the cam bolt in or out, will change the caster angle significantly and camber angle
only slightly. To maintain the camber angle while adjusting caster, move the rear cam bolt in or out. Then move
the front cam bolt slightly in the opposite direction.
To increase positive caster angle, move the rear position cam bolt outward (from the engine). Move the front
cam bolt inward (toward the engine) slightly until the specified camber angle is obtained.
CAMBER
Move the rear position cam bolt outward (from the engine). Move the forward position cam bolt inward (toward
the engine).
After adjustment is made tighten the cam bolt nuts to proper torque specification.
TOE ADJUSTMENT
Fig. 5: Tie Rod End

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The wheel toe position adjustment is the final adjustment.
1. Start the engine and turn wheels both ways before straightening the wheels. Secure the steering wheel
with the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
2. Turn off engine.
3. Loosen the tie rod jam nuts (1).
NOTE: Each front wheel should be adjusted for one-half of the total toe position
specification. This will ensure the steering wheel will be centered when the
wheels are positioned straight-ahead.
4. Adjust the wheel toe position by turning the tie rod as necessary.
5. Tighten the tie rod jam nut (1) to 75 N.m (55 ft. lbs.).
6. Verify the specifications.
CAMBER AND CASTER ADJUSTMENT
Camber and caster angle adjustments involve changing the position of the lower control arm cam bolts (3).
TOE ADJUSTMENT
The wheel toe position adjustment is the final adjustment.
1. Start the engine and turn wheels both ways before straightening the wheels. Secure the steering wheel
with the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
2. Turn off the engine.
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Fig. 7: Tie Rod End

3. Loosen the tie rod jam nuts (1).
NOTE: Each front wheel should be adjusted for one-half of the total toe position
specification. This will ensure the steering wheel will be centered when the
wheels are positioned straight-ahead.
4. Adjust the wheel toe position by turning the tie rod as necessary. See Fig. 7.
5. Tighten the tie rod jam nut (1) to 75 N.m (55 ft. lbs.).
6. Verify the specifications.
SPECIFICATIONS
ALIGNMENT
NOTE: Specifications are in degrees.
FRONT
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PREFERRED CASTER 3.3° ± 0.5° CAMBER -0.375° ± TOTAL TOE-IN 0.2° ±
0.375° 0.125°
RANGE 2.8° to 3.8° -0.750° to 0° +0.075° to +0.325°
MAX RT/LT 0.5° 0.7° 0.13°
DIFFERENCE
REAR
PREFERRED CAMBER -0.25° ± THRUST ANGLE 0° to TOTAL TOE-IN 0.25° to
0.375° ± 0.25° ± 0.41°
RANGE -0.625° to +0.125° -0.25° to +0.25° -0.16° to +0.66°
FRONT
DESCRIPTION
FRONT SUSPENSION
Fig. 8: Front Suspension


with the full weight of the vehicle at normal ride height. It is important to have
the springs supporting the full weight of the vehicle when the fasteners are
torqued. If springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle ride comfort
could be affected and premature bushing wear may occur.
The front suspension is designed to allow each wheel to adapt to different road surfaces independently. The
wheels are mounted to hub bearings on the steering knuckle spindles (5). The hub bearings are sealed and
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lubricated for life. The steering knuckles turn (pivot) on ball joints integral to the outboard portion of the upper
control arms (3) and pressed into the lower control arm. The ball joints and outer tie rods are lubricated for life.
WARNING
REAR SUSPENSION
WARNING: Suspension components with rubber bushings must be tightened with the
vehicle at normal ride height. It is important to have the springs
supporting the weight of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle ride comfort will be
affected and cause premature bushing wear.
NOTE: Never use anything other than the specified tool to disassemble the ball joints &
tie rods from the steering knuckle. Ball joint seal or knuckle damage can result.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART

Front Shock Absorber 108 80 -
Clevis Bracket Upper Nut
Clevis Bracket Lower
Nut
Top (4) Mounting Nuts
Front Shock to Spring 41 30 -
and Insulator Nut
Upper Suspension Arm 122 90 -
Front Nut
Upper Suspension Arm 122 90 -
Rear Nut
Lower Suspension Arm 170 125 -
Front Nut
Lower Suspension Arm 170 125 -
Rear Nut
Stabilizer Bar Clamp Nut 149 110 -
Stabilizer Bar Link Upper 115 85 -
Nut
Stabilizer Bar Link 102 75 -
Lower bolt
Hub/Bearing Bolt 130 96 -
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Hub/Bearing Halfshaft 136 100 -

Nut
Upper Ball Joint Nut 41 plus Rotate nut to an 30 plus Rotate nut to an -
Tighten to 41 N.m (30 ft additional 90° additional 90°
lbs), make sure nut is
seated to the knuckle.
Rotate nut to an
additional 90°
Lower Ball Joint Nut 54 plus Rotate nut an 40 plus Rotate nut an -
Tighten to 54 N.m (40 ft additional 90° additional 90°
lbs), make sure nut is
seated against knuckle.
Rotate nut an additional
90°
Outer Tie Rod End Nut to 41 plus Rotate nut an 30 plus Rotate nut an -
Knuckle additional 90° additional 90°
Wheel Speed Sensor 13.5 10 -
SPECIAL TOOLS
FRONT SUSPENSION
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Fig. 9: Ball Joint Press - C-4212F

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Fig. 10: Remover C-4150A

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Fig. 11: Ball Joint - 9654

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Fig. 12: Receiver Cup - 6761

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Fig. 13: Clevis Bushing - 9956

Fig. 14: Clevis Bushing - 9957
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Fig. 15: LCA Bushing - 9334


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Fig. 18: Remover, Ball Stud 9360

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Fig. 19: Puller - 8677

BUSHINGS
REMOVAL
BUSHINGS-CLEVIS BRACKET

3. Remove the wheel speed sensor. Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Remove the lower stabilizer link at the lower control arm.
5. Remove the lower clevis bolt at the control arm.
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Fig. 20: Upper Ball Joint Separation

6. Remove the upper ball joint nut.

7. Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle using special tool 9360 separator (2).
8. Lower the control arm enough to install the press tool.
Fig. 21: Clevis Bushing Removal

NOTE: Extreme pressure lubrication must be used on the threaded portions of the
tool. This will increase the longevity of the tool and insure proper
operation during the removal and installation process.
9. Press the bushing (3) out using special tools C-4212F (Press) (1), 9956 (receiver) (4) and 9653-1 (driver)
(2).
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BUSHINGS-LOWER CONTROL ARM
Fig. 22: LCA Bushing Removal

1. Remove the lower control arm. See REMOVAL.

2. Secure the control arm in a vise.
3. Press the bushing (4) out using special tools C-4212F (Press) (1), 9334-5 (Receiver) (2) and 9603-3
(Driver) (5).
BUSHINGS-STABILIZER BAR

2. Remove the stabilizer bushing clamps.
3. Remove the stabilizer bushings from the stabilizer bar.
INSTALLATION
BUSHINGS-LOWER CONTROL ARM

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Fig. 23: LCA Bushing Install

NOTE: Extreme pressure lubrication must be used on the threaded portions of the tool.
This will increase the longevity of the tool and insure proper operation during
the removal and installation process.
1. Install the new lower control arm bushings (3) into the lower control arm (4) using tools C-4212F (Press)
(1), 9603-1 (driver) (2) and 9969-1 (receiver) (5) making sure the receiver cup is properly centered for the
bushing to be pressed in to the proper depth.
2. Remove the control arm from the vise.
3. Install the lower control arm. See INSTALLATION.
4. Perform a wheel alignment. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
BUSHINGS-STABILIZER BAR

1. Install the stabilizer bushings to the stabilizer bar.

2. Install the stabilizer bushing clamps. Tighten the nuts to 149 N.m (110 ft.lbs.).
BUSHINGS-CLEVIS BRACKET

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Fig. 24: Clevis Bushing Install

1. Install the new clevis bracket bushing (4) into the lower control arm (3) using special tools C-4212F
(Press) (1), 9957-2 (Depth Gauge) (2), 9957-1 (driver) (5).
2. Install the upper ball joint to the knuckle and tighten the nut to 41 N.m (30 ft.lbs.) plus an additional 90°
turn.
3. Install the clevis bolt to the lower control arm and tighten the bolt to 150 N.m (110 ft.lbs.).
4. Install the stabilizer link lower bolt to the control arm and tighten the bolt to 102 N.m (75 ft.lbs.).
5. Install the wheel speed sensor. Refer to INSTALLATION .
HUB/BEARING
REMOVAL
HUB/BEARING

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Fig. 25: View Of Hub/Bearing Mounting Bolts

6. Remove the axle shaft nut (if equipped with four wheel drive)
7. Remove the three mounting bolts (1) for the hub/bearing assembly.
8. Remove the hub/bearing.
INSTALLATION
HUB/BEARING
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Fig. 26: View Of Hub/Bearing Mounting Bolts

1. Install the hub/bearing assembly to the vehicle.

2. Install the three mounting bolts (1) for the hub/bearing. Tighten the bolt to 130 N.m (96 ft.lbs.).
3. Install the axle shaft nut. Tighten the nut to 135 N.m (100 ft.lbs.) (if equipped with four wheel drive)
4. Install the wheel speed sensor to the hub. Tighten the bolt to 13.5 N.m (10 ft.lbs.). Refer to
INSTALLATION .
6. Install the disc brake caliper adapter. Tighten the nut to 135 N.m (100 ft.lbs.). Refer to
INSTALLATION .
KNUCKLE
REMOVAL
KNUCKLE
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6. Remove the axle shaft nut (if equipped with four wheel drive)

7. Remove the outer tie rod nut (2).
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Fig. 28: Identifying Tie Rod, Steering Knuckle & Special Tool 9360
8. Separate the outer tie rod end (1) from the steering knuckle (3) using tool 9360 (2). Refer to
REMOVAL .
Fig. 29: LOWER BALL JOINT SEPARATION

9. Remove the lower ball joint nut.

10. Separate the lower ball joint from the suspension arm using tool C-4150A (3).
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12. Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle using tool 9360 (2).
NOTE: Inspect the seal side surface of the upper ball joint, lower ball joint & outer
tie rod knuckle bosses. If any significant grooves or gouges are present
(or heavily scratched) Replace the steering knuckle.
13. Remove the knuckle (3) from the vehicle.

14. Remove the hub/bearing (if needed). See REMOVAL.
INSTALLATION
KNUCKLE
CAUTION: The ball joint stud taper must be CLEAN and DRY before installing into the
knuckle. Clean the stud taper with mineral spirits to remove dirt and
grease.
1. Install the hub/bearing (if removed from the knuckle). See INSTALLATION.
2. Install the knuckle to the vehicle.
3. Install the upper ball joint nut. Tighten the nut to 41 N.m (30 ft.lbs.) plus an additional 90° turn.
4. Install the lower ball joint nut. Tighten the nut to 54 N.m (40 ft.lbs.) plus an additional 90° turn.
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5. Install the outer tie rod end (1) to the steering knuckle and install the nut (2). Tighten the nut (2) to 41
N.m (30 ft.lbs.) plus an additional 90° turn. Refer to INSTALLATION .
6. Install the axle shaft nut. Tighten the nut to 136 N.m (100 ft.lbs.) (if equipped with four wheel drive).
9. Install the caliper adapter. Refer to INSTALLATION .
LOWER BALL JOINT
LOWER BALL JOINT
1. Raise the front of the vehicle. Place safety floor stands under both lower control arms as far outboard as
possible. Lower the vehicle to allow the stands to support some or all of the vehicle weight.
2. Mount a dial indicator solidly to the topside of the lower control arm and then zero the dial indicator.
3. Position the indicator plunger against the bottom surface of the steering knuckle.
NOTE: The dial indicator plunger must be perpendicular to the machined surface
of the steering knuckle.
4. Position a pry bar under the tire assembly. Pry upwards on the tire assembly.
5. If the travel exceeds 0.5 mm (0.020 in.), replace the lower ball joint. See REMOVAL.
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REMOVAL
LOWER BALL JOINT
Fig. 32: Identifying Tie Rod, Steering Knuckle & Special Tool 9360

2. Remove the brake caliper and rotor. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Separate the tie rod (1) from the steering knuckle (3) using special tool 9360 (2). Refer to REMOVAL .

4. Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle (3) using special tool 9360 (2).
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Fig. 34: LOWER BALL JOINT SEPARATION

5. Separate the lower ball joint (2) from the steering knuckle (1) using special tool 8677 (3).
6. Remove the steering knuckle. See REMOVAL.
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Fig. 35: Removing Lower Ball Joint

7. Press the ball joint from the lower control arm (3) using special tools C-4212-F (PRESS) (1), C-4212-3
(Driver) (2) and 9654-3 (Receiver) (4).
INSTALLATION
LOWER BALL JOINT
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Fig. 36: Installing Lower Ball Joint

1 - C-4212-F PRESS
2 - 9654-2 RECEIVER
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - BALL JOINT
5 - 9654-1 DRIVER
1. Install the ball joint (4) into the control arm (3) and press in using special tools C-4212-F (press) (1),
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9654-1 (Driver) (5) and 9654-2 (Receiver) (2).

2. Stake the ball joint flange in four evenly spaced places around the ball joint flange, using a chisel and
hammer.
3. Install the steering knuckle. See INSTALLATION.
4. Install the tie rod end into the steering knuckle. Refer to INSTALLATION .
5. Install and tighten the halfshaft nut to 136 N.m (100 ft. lbs.). (If Equipped).
6. Install the brake caliper and rotor. Refer to INSTALLATION .
8. Check the vehicle ride height. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
LOWER CONTROL ARM
REMOVAL
LOWER CONTROL ARM

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Fig. 37: Stabilizer Bar

3. Remove the stabilizer bar link (2). See REMOVAL.
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Fig. 38: Clevis Bracket

4. Remove the shock absorber lower clevis bolt (4). See REMOVAL.
Fig. 39: Lower Ball Joint Separation

5. Remove the lower ball joint nut (2). Separate ball joint from the steering knuckle (1) with Remover 8677
(3).
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NOTE: Marking the lower control arm pivot bolts front and rear will aid in the
assembly procedure.
6. Remove the control arm pivot bolts (3) and suspension arm from frame rail brackets (1).
7. Remove the lower control arm (2) from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
LOWER CONTROL ARM
1. Position the lower control arm (2) at the frame rail brackets. Install the cam/pivot bolts (3) and nuts.
Tighten the nuts finger-tight.
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CAUTION: The ball joint stud taper must be CLEAN and DRY before installing
into the knuckle. Clean the stud taper with mineral spirits to remove
dirt and grease.
2. Install the ball joint into the steering knuckle and tighten the nut to 54 N.m (40 ft.lbs.) plus an additional
90° turn.

3. Install shock absorber lower clevis bolt/nut (4). Tighten the nut to 150 N.m (110 ft.lbs.) with full vehicle
weight.

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4. Install the stabilizer bar link lower bolt (2). Tighten the bolt to 102 N.m (75 ft.lbs.) with full vehicle
weight . See INSTALLATION.
5. Align the marks front and rear (1) at the cam/pivot bolts (3) and tighten the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 170
N.m (125 ft.lbs.) with full vehicle weight.
6. Install the wheel and tire assembly, refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
7. Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
SHOCK
REMOVAL
SHOCK - LEFT SIDE
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Fig. 45: Identifying Battery Tray, Power Center & Battery

1. Disconnect the battery (3).

5. Remove the four upper shock mounting nuts.
7. Remove the left tire and wheel assembly.
8. Remove the caliper and support. Refer to REMOVAL .

9. Remove the lower bolt (4) at the lower control arm securing the clevis bracket (3).
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10. Remove the stabilizer link bolt (2) at the lower control arm. See REMOVAL.


12. Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle (3) using remover 9360 (2).
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Fig. 49: Identifying Steering Knuckle, Remover 9360, Shock Assembly & Knuckle
13. Push downward on the steering knuckle (3) and support the knuckle (4) this will allow access to remove
the shock.
14. Remove the shock assembly (1) from the vehicle.
15. Remove the spring from the shock (if needed). See REMOVAL.
SHOCK - RIGHT SIDE
1. Remove the air box. Refer to REMOVAL for 3.7L - SERVICE INFORMATION or REMOVAL for
4.0L - SERVICE INFOMATION.
2. Remove the four upper shock mounting nuts.
4. Remove the right side tire assembly.
5. Remove the caliper and support. Refer to REMOVAL .
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6. Remove the lower bolt (4) at the lower control arm securing the clevis bracket (3).

7. Remove the stabilizer link bolt (2) at the lower control arm. See REMOVAL.


9. Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle (3) using remover 9360 (2).
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10. Pull downward on the knuckle and support the knuckle (4) to allow access.
11. Remove the shock assembly (1) from the vehicle.
12. Remove the spring from the shock (if needed). See REMOVAL.
INSTALLATION
SHOCK - LEFT SIDE
1. Install the spring to the shock (if removed). See INSTALLATION.

2. Install the shock assembly (1) to the vehicle.
3. Install the four upper shock mounting nuts. Tighten the nuts to 108 N.m (80 ft.lbs.).
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4. Raise the knuckle (3) into place and reconnect the upper ball joint nut. Tighten the nut to 41 N.m (30
ft.lbs.) plus an additional 90° turn.

5. Install the clevis bracket bolt (4) at the lower control arm. See INSTALLATION. Tighten the bolt to 150
6. Install the caliper. Refer to INSTALLATION .

7. Install the lower stabilizer link (1) at the lower control arm. Tighten the bolt (2) to 102 N.m (75 ft.lbs.)
with full vehicle weight . See INSTALLATION.
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8. Install the left tire and wheel assembly. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .


13. Reconnect the battery cables (3).
SHOCK - RIGHT SIDE
1. Install the spring to the shock (if removed). See INSTALLATION.

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2. Install the shock assembly (1) to the vehicle.

3. Install the four upper shock mounting nuts. Tighten the nuts to 108 N.m (80 ft.lbs.).
4. Raise the knuckle (3) into place and reconnect the upper ball joint nut. Tighten the nut to 41 N.m (30
ft.lbs.) plus an additional 90° turn.

5. Install the clevis bracket bolt (4) at the lower control arm. See INSTALLATION. Tighten the bolt to 150

6. Install the caliper. Refer to INSTALLATION .

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7. Install the lower stabilizer link bolt (2) at the lower control arm. Tighten the bolt to 102 N.m (75 ft.lbs.)
with full vehicle weight. . See INSTALLATION.
8. Install the right tire and wheel assembly. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
10. Install the airbox. Refer to INSTALLATION for 3.7L - SERVICE INFORMATION or
INSTALLATION for 4.0L - SERVICE INFORMATION.
SPRING
REMOVAL
SPRING

3. Remove the shock. Refer to the proper side shock removal procedure being worked on. See REMOVAL.
Fig. 61: Spring Compressor

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1 - SPRING COMPRESSOR
2 - SPRING
4. Secure the shock assembly into a Pentastar® Service Equipment W-7200 Spring compressor (1). See Fig.
61
5. Compress the spring (2).
6. Remove the shock mount nut.
7. Remove the shock from the spring compressor.
8. Transfer the necessary parts to the type of repair being done (Insulator, Spring, shock and mount).
INSTALLATION
SPRING
Fig. 62: Spring Compressor

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1 - SPRING COMPRESSOR
2 - SPRING
1. Install the shock to the spring (2) and spring compressor (1), After the transfer of the necessary parts to
the type of repair being done (Insulator, Spring, shock and mount).
2. Install the shock mounting nut. Tighten the bolt to 41 N.m (30 ft.lbs.).
3. Loosen the compressed spring (2).
4. Remove the shock assembly from the spring compressor (1).
5. Install the shock to the vehicle. See INSTALLATION.
7. Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
CLEVIS BRACKET
REMOVAL
CLEVIS BRACKET


5. Remove the lower clevis bolt (4) at the lower control arm.
6. Remove the upper clevis bolt (2) at the shock.
7. Remove the lower stabilizer link bolt at the lower control arm.
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9. Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle using remover 9360.
10. Swing the knuckle downward to allow clearance to remove the clevis bracket (3).
11. Remove the clevis bracket (3) from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
CLEVIS BRACKET

1. Install the clevis bracket upper bolt (2) to the shock (1). Tighten the bolt (2) to 108 N.m (80 ft.lbs.).
2. Raise the knuckle to the upper ball joint.
3. Install the nut to the upper ball joint. Tighten the nut to 41 N.m (30 ft.lbs.) plus an additional 90° turn.
4. Install the clevis bracket lower bolt (4) to the lower control arm. Tighten the bolt (4) to 150 N.m (110
ft.lbs.) with full vehicle weight.
5. Install the lower stabilizer link bolt at the lower control arm. Tighten the bolt to 102 N.m (75 ft.lbs.) with
full vehicle weight.
STABILIZER BAR
REMOVAL
STABILIZER BAR
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3. Remove the stabilizer link (1) bolts at the stabilizer bar.
Fig. 66: Stabilizer Bar Bracket

4. Remove the stabilizer bushing bracket nuts (2).

5. Remove the stabilizer bar bushing brackets (3) from the frame.
6. Remove the stabilizer bar (1) from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
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STABILIZER BAR
Fig. 67: Stabilizer Bar Bracket

1. Install the stabilizer bar (1) to the vehicle.

2. Install the stabilizer bar bushing brackets (3). Tighten the nuts (2) to 149 N.m (110 ft.lbs.).

3. Install the stabilizer link (1) bolts and bushings at the stabilizer bar. Tighten the bolt to 115 N.m (85
ft.lbs.) with full vehicle weight.
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STABILIZER LINK
REMOVAL
STABILIZER LINK


3. Remove the stabilizer link bolt (2) at the lower control arm.
4. Remove the stabilizer link bolt at the stabilizer bar.
5. Remove the stabilizer link (1).
INSTALLATION
STABILIZER LINK
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1. Install the stabilizer link (1).

2. Install the stabilizer link bolt at the stabilizer bar. Tighten the bolt to 115 N.m (85 ft.lbs.) with full
vehicle weight.
3. Install the stabilizer link bolt (2) at the lower control arm. Tighten the bolt (2) to 102 N.m (75 ft.lbs.) with
UPPER CONTROL ARM
REMOVAL
UPPER CONTROL ARM - LEFT

2. Remove the left side tire and wheel assembly.
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4. Separate the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle (3) using remover 9360 (2).


7. Unclip the power center (2) and move it to the side out of the way.
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Fig. 73: Pivot Bolts

9. Remove the upper control arm rear nut (2) by using a ratchet and extension under the steering shaft (3).
10. Remove the upper control arm front bolt.
11. Remove the upper control arm from the vehicle.
UPPER CONTROL ARM - RIGHT

2. Remove the right side tire and wheel assembly.

4. Separate the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle (3) using remover 9360 (2).
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6. Remove the air box assembly. Refer to REMOVAL for 3.7L - SERVICE INFORMATION or
REMOVAL for 4.0L - SERVICE INFOMATION.
7. Remove the upper control arm rear bolt/nut.
8. Remove the upper control arm front bolt/nut.
9. Remove the upper control arm from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
UPPER CONTROL ARM - LEFT
Fig. 75: Pivot Bolts

1. Install the upper control arm to the vehicle.

2. Install the upper control arm front flag bolt (1). Tighten the nut (2) to 122 N.m (90 ft.lbs.) with full
vehicle weight.
3. Install the upper control arm rear flag bolt. Tighten the nut to 122 N.m (90 ft.lbs.) with full vehicle
weight.
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6. Reclip and mount the power center (2).
8. Install the left side tire and wheel assembly. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
10. Set the toe. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
UPPER CONTROL ARM - RIGHT
1. Install the upper control arm to the vehicle.

2. Install the upper control arm front flag bolt. Tighten the nut to 122 N.m (90 ft.lbs.) with full vehicle
weight.
3. Install the upper control arm rear flag bolt. Tighten the nut to 122 N.m (90 ft.lbs.) with full vehicle
weight.
4. Install the air box. Refer to INSTALLATION for 3.7L - SERVICE INFORMATION or
INSTALLATION for 4.0L - SERVICE INFORMATION.
6. Install the right side tire and wheel assembly. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
8. Set the toe. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
REAR
DESCRIPTION
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REAR SUSPENSION
Fig. 77: Rear Suspension Components


The rear suspension is comprised of :
Drive axle
Shock absorbers (1)
Coil springs (2)
Lower suspension arms (5)
Upper suspension arm
Stabilizer bar (4)
Stabilizer link (3)
Track bar (6)
WARNING
REAR SUSPENSION
WARNING: Suspension components with rubber bushings must be tightened with the
vehicle at normal ride height. It is important to have the springs
supporting the weight of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle ride comfort will be
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affected and cause premature bushing wear.
REAR SUSPENSION

VEHICLE INSTABILITY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearings. 1. Replace wheel bearings.
2. Loose, worn or bent suspension 2. Inspect, tighten or replace components
components. as necessary.
VEHICLE PULLS TO 1. Weak or broken spring. 1. Replace spring.
ONE SIDE 2. Alignment. 2. Align vehicle to specifications.
3. Tires. 3. Replace tires.
4. Brakes. 4. Repair as necessary.
KNOCKING, RATTLING 1. Worn shock bushings. 1. Replace shock.
OR SQUEAKING 2. Loose shock mounting. 2. Tighten to specifications.
3. Shock valve. 3. Replace shock.
4. Loose upper ball joint. 4. Replace ball joint.
5. Loose, worn or bent suspension 5. Inspect, tighten or replace components
IMPROPER TRACKING 1. Loose, worn or bent suspension 1. Inspect, tighten or replace components
2. Bent axle. 2. Replace axle.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART

Shock Absorber Upper 108 80 -
Bolt
Shock Absorber Lower 115 85 -
Nut
Upper Control Arm to 95 70 -
Body Nut
Upper Control Arm to 95 70 -
Axle Nut
Lower Control Arm to 163 120 -
Body Nut
Lower Control Arm to 203 150 -
Axle Nut
Track Bar to Body 183 135 -
Bracket Nut
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Track Bar to Axle Bolt 176 130 -

Stabilizer Bar to 115 85 -
Stabilizer Bar Link Nut
Stabilizer Bar Link to 102 75 -
Body Bolt
Stabilizer Bar Pivot 47 35 -
Bushing Retainer to Axle
Bolt
SPECIAL TOOLS
SPECIAL TOOLS
Fig. 78: Ball Joint Press - C-4212F

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Fig. 79: Remover/Installer Rear Upper Ball Joint - 8861

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Fig. 80: Remover/Installer Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings 8860

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Fig. 81: Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing Remover/Installer - 8862

BUSHINGS
REMOVAL
STABILIZER BAR BUSHINGS

2. Remove the stabilizer bushing clamp.
3. Remove the bushing from the stabilizer bar.
INSTALLATION
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STABILIZER BAR BUSHINGS
1. Install the bushing to the stabilizer bar.

2. Install the stabilizer bar bushing retainer clamp and bolts. Tighten the bolts to 47 N.m (35 ft.lbs.) with
SHOCK
DESCRIPTION
SHOCK ABSORBERS

The top of the shock absorbers (1) are bolted to the body. The bottom of the shocks are bolted to the axle
brackets. The standard shocks have conventional twin tube construction and are low pressure gas charged. Gas
charging prevents cavitation during rough road operation.
OPERATION
SHOCK ABSORBERS
The shock absorbers dampen jounce and rebound motion of the vehicle over various road conditions and limit
rebound suspension travel.
REMOVAL
SHOCK ABSORBER
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Fig. 83: Identifying Upper Bolt, Shock Absorber & Axle Bracket
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Position a hydraulic jack under the axle to support the axle.
2. Remove the upper bolt (1) from the frame bracket.
3. Remove the lower bolt and nut from the axle bracket (3). Remove the shock absorber (2).
INSTALLATION
SHOCK ABSORBER
Fig. 84: Identifying Upper Bolt, Shock Absorber & Axle Bracket
1. Install the shock absorber (2) in the frame bracket and install the bolt (1).
2. Install the shock absorber (2) in the axle bracket (3) and install the bolt.
3. Tighten the upper mounting bolt/nut to 108 N.m (80 ft. lbs.). Tighten the lower mounting bolt/nut to 115
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N.m (85 ft. lbs.) with full vehicle weight.

SPRING
REMOVAL
COIL SPRING
Fig. 85: Coil Spring

2. Remove the shock absorber lower bolt from the axle bracket.
3. Lower the hydraulic jack and tilt the axle and remove the coil spring (3). See Fig. 85.
4. Remove and inspect the upper and lower spring isolators (1). See Fig. 85.
INSTALLATION
COIL SPRING
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Fig. 86: Coil Spring

1. Install the upper isolator (1). See Fig. 85.

2. Install the lower isolator. See Fig. 85.
3. Pull down on the axle and position the coil spring (3) in the lower isolator.
CAUTION: Ensure the spring is positioned on the lower isolator.
4. Raise the axle with the hydraulic jack.

5. Install the shock absorber to the axle bracket and tighten to 115 N.m (85 ft. lbs.).
JOUNCE BUMPER
REMOVAL
JOUNCE BUMPER
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Fig. 87: Removing/Installing Jounce Bumper

1. Remove the shock. See REMOVAL.

2. Remove the coil spring. See REMOVAL.
3. Pull the jounce bumper downwards to remove. See Fig. 87
INSTALLATION
JOUNCE BUMPER
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Fig. 88: Removing/Installing Jounce Bumper

1. Install the jounce bumper into the mount by twisting the bumper into place. See Fig. 87.
2. Install the coil spring. See INSTALLATION.
3. Install the shock. See INSTALLATION.
STABILIZER BAR
REMOVAL
STABILIZER BAR
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Fig. 89: Stab Bar & Link


2. Remove the stabilizer nut (3) at the bar (5).
3. Remove the stabilizer links (4) from the stabilizer bar (5).
4. Remove the stabilizer bar bolts (1) from the axle.
5. Remove the stabilizer bar (5).
INSTALLATION
STABILIZER BAR

1. Position the stabilizer bar (5) on the axle. Ensure the bar is centered with equal spacing on both sides.
Tighten the bolts (1) to 47 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).
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2. Install the stabilizer links (3) to the bar (5). Tighten the nuts (3) to 88 N.m (65 ft. lbs.) with full vehicle
weight.
3. Remove support and lower the vehicle.
STABILIZER LINK
REMOVAL
STABILIZER LINK
Fig. 91: Upper Stab Bolt


2. Support the rear axle with a jack.
3. Remove the rear tire right side only .
4. Remove the upper link (2) bolt at the frame.
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5. Remove the lower link nut (3) at the stabilizer bar (5).
6. Remove stabilizer link (4).
INSTALLATION
STABILIZER LINK
Fig. 93: Upper Stab Bolt

1. Install the upper bolt (2) for the stabilizer link (1) to the frame and tighten to 102 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
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2. Install the stabilizer link (4) to the stabilizer bar (5).

3. Install the nut (3) and tighten to 115 N.m (85 ft. lbs.) with full vehicle weight.
4. Install the spare tire right side only .
5. Remove the jack and lower the vehicle.
MASS DAMPER
REMOVAL
MASS DAMPER

2. Support the rear axle with a jack.
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3. Remove the lower link nut (3) at the stabilizer bar (5).
4. Remove the mass damper (7).
5. Remove stabilizer bar (5) from the link (4).
6. Remove the retainer (6).
INSTALLATION
MASS DAMPER
Fig. 96: Mass Damper

1. Install the retainer (2) to the stabilizer link (1).

2. Install the stabilizer bar (3) over the retainer (2).
3. Install the mass damper (4) to the stabilizer link stud.
4. Install the nut (5) and tighten to 115 N.m (85 ft. lbs.) with full vehicle weight.
5. Remove the jack and lower the vehicle.
LOWER CONTROL ARM
DESCRIPTION
LOWER SUSPENSION ARMS AND BUSHINGS
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The lower suspension arms (5) are tubular steel and use a voided round bushing at the arm on the axle side. The
body side uses a solid round bushing.
OPERATION
LOWER SUSPENSION ARMS AND BUSHINGS
The bushings provide isolation from the axle. The arms mount to the unibody frame rail bracket and the axle
brackets. The arm and bushings provide location and react to loads.
REMOVAL
LOWER SUSPENSION ARM - RIGHT SIDE
1. Raise the vehicle and support the rear axle.

2. Remove the lower suspension arm nut and bolt from the axle bracket.
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Fig. 98: Suspension Arms Components

1 - NUT
2 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
3 - UPPER SPRING ISOLATOR
4 - JOUNCE BUMPER RETAINER
5 - BOLT
6 - JOUNCE BUMPER
7 - UPPER FLAG BOLT
8 - LOWER FLAG BOLT
9 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
3. Remove the exhaust from the mid and rear hanger rubber isolators to allow the exhaust system to lower
enough to remove the bolt at the frame rail.
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4. Remove the nut (1) and bolt (8) from the frame rail and remove the lower suspension arm (9).
LOWER SUSPENSION ARM - LEFT SIDE
Fig. 99: Identifying Bolt/Nut, Lower Suspension Arm, Fuel Tank & Frame Rail
1. Raise the vehicle and support the rear axle.

2. Remove the fuel tank (3). Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the lower suspension arm nut and bolt from the axle bracket.
4. Remove the nut and bolt (1) from the frame rail (4) and remove the lower suspension arm (2).
INSTALLATION
LOWER SUSPENSION ARM - RIGHT SIDE
NOTE: All torques should be done with vehicle on the ground with full vehicle weight.
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Fig. 100: Suspension Arms Components

1 - NUT
2 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
3 - UPPER SPRING ISOLATOR
4 - JOUNCE BUMPER RETAINER
5 - BOLT
6 - JOUNCE BUMPER
7 - UPPER FLAG BOLT
8 - LOWER FLAG BOLT
9 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
1. Position the lower suspension arm (9) in the frame rail.

2. Install the frame rail bracket bolt (8) and nut (1). Tighten to 163 N.m (120 ft. lbs.) with full vehicle
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weight.
3. Install the exhaust back in the mid and rear hanger rubber isolators.
4. Position the lower suspension arm in the axle bracket.
5. Install the axle bracket bolt and nut. Tighten to 203 N.m (150 ft. lbs.) with full vehicle weight.
LOWER SUSPENSION ARM - LEFT SIDE
Fig. 101: Identifying Bolt/Nut, Lower Suspension Arm, Fuel Tank & Frame Rail
1. Position the lower suspension arm (2) in the frame rail (4).
2. Install the frame rail bracket bolt and nut (1). Tighten to 163 N.m (120 ft. lbs.) with full vehicle weight.
3. Position the lower suspension arm in the axle bracket.
4. Install the axle bracket bolt and nut. Tighten to 203 N.m (150 ft. lbs.) with full vehicle weight.
5. Install the fuel tank. Refer to INSTALLATION .
UPPER CONTROL ARM
DESCRIPTION
UPPER SUSPENSION ARM, BUSHINGS, AND BALL JOINT
The suspension arm uses bushings to isolate road noise. The suspension arm is bolted through bushings to a
bracket at the body and axle.
OPERATION
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UPPER SUSPENSION ARM, BUSHINGS, AND BALL JOINT
The upper suspension arm provides fore/aft and lateral location of the rear axle. The suspension arm travel is
limited through the use of jounce bumpers in compression and shock absorbers in rebound.
REMOVAL
UPPER SUSPENSION ARM - LEFT SIDE
Fig. 102: Identifying Nut/Bolt & Upper Suspension Arm


2. Support the rear axle.
3. Lower the fuel tank in order to gain access to the bolt. Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Remove the upper suspension arm nut and bolt from the axle bracket.
5. Remove the nut and bolt (1) from the frame rail and remove the upper suspension arm (2).
UPPER SUSPENSION ARM - RIGHT SIDE
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Fig. 103: Upper Suspension Arm


2. Support the rear axle.
3. Remove the upper suspension arm nut and bolt (1) from the axle bracket.
4. Remove the nut (3) and flag bolt from the frame rail and remove the upper suspension arm (2).
INSTALLATION
UPPER SUSPENSION ARM - LEFT SIDE
Fig. 104: Identifying Nut/Bolt & Upper Suspension Arm

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1. Position the upper suspension arm (2) in the frame rail bracket.
2. Install the mounting bolt and nut (1) Tighten to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.) with full vehicle weight.
3. Position the upper suspension arm in the axle bracket.
4. Install the mounting bolt and nut. Tighten to 115 N.m (85 ft. lbs.) with full vehicle weight.
5. Raise the fuel tank back into place and secure. Refer to INSTALLATION .
UPPER SUSPENSION ARM - RIGHT SIDE
Fig. 105: Upper Suspension Arm

1. Position the upper suspension arm (2) in the frame rail bracket.
2. Install the mounting flag bolt and nut (3). Tighten to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.). with full vehicle weight.
3. Position the upper suspension arm (2) in the axle bracket.
4. Install the mounting bolt and nut (1). Tighten to 115 N.m (85 ft. lbs.). with full vehicle weight.
TRACK BAR
REMOVAL
TRACK BAR
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Fig. 106: Identifying Track Bar, Flag Bolt/Nut & Frame Bracket
2. Remove the track bar flag bolt and nut (1) from the frame bracket (2).
Fig. 107: Identifying Track Bar, Bolt/Nut & Axle Bracket

3. Remove the track bar bolt and nut (2) from the axle bracket (3).
4. Remove the track bar (1).
INSTALLATION
TRACK BAR
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Fig. 108: Identifying Track Bar Flag Bolt/Nut & Frame Bracket
1. Install the track bar (3) to the vehicle.

2. Install the track bar bolt and nut (1) in the frame bracket (2).
Fig. 109: Identifying Track Bar, Bolt/Nut & Axle Bracket

3. Install the track bar (1) into the axle bracket (3).
4. Install the track bar bolt and nut (2) in the axle bracket.
6. Tighten the body side mounting bolt/nut to 183 N.m (135 ft. lbs.). Tighten the axle side mounting bolt/nut
to 176 N.m (130 ft. lbs.) with full vehicle weight.
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2007 TRANSFER CASE MP140 - Service Information - Nitro
2007 TRANSFER CASE
MP140 - Service Information - Nitro
MP140 - SERVICE
DESCRIPTION
TRANSFER CASE - MP140
Fig. 1: Transfer Case - MP140 Exploded View

1 - INPUT SEAL 15 - WEAR SLEEVE

2 - VENT 16 - FLANGE
3 - FRONT CASE 17 - FLANGE SEAL
4 - INPUT GEAR 18 - FLANGE NUT
5 - PILOT BEARING 19 - ID. TAG
6 - PLANETARY GEAR 20 - DRAIN/FILL PLUGS
7 - SPROCKET GEAR 21 - RETAINING RING
8 - MAINSHAFT 22 - DRIVEN SPROCKET
9 - DRIVE SPROCKET 23 - RETAINING RING
10 - SNAP RING 24 - MAGNET
11 - CHAIN 25 - DOWELS
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12 - REAR CASE 26 - CHAIN GUIDES

13 - SEAL 27 - FRONT OUTPUT SEAL
14 - DAMPENER 28 - FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT
With an automatic transmission, the MP 140 single-speed transfer case is used in Nitro's new Full- Time Four-
Wheel Drive System. It provides convenient full-time four-wheel drive operation and functions seamlessly with
Nitro's standard Traction Control and ESP (Electronic Stability Program) features to provide enhanced traction
and stability on low-traction surfaces. The MP designation refers to Magna Powertrain, the successor to New
Venture Gear.
The MP140 single-speed transfer case provides the following benefits:
Convenient operation: No shift lever or driver interaction required.

Smooth operation and vehicle stability under all conditions because torque is constantly being shared
among all wheels.
Traction to maintain forward motion under most conditions through 48 front/52 rear percent torque
distribution.
Enhanced traction and stability provided by the Traction Control and Electronic Stability Program (ESP)
working in tandem with full-time four-wheel-drive. Traction Control and ESP provide resistance to any
wheel that is slipping to allow additional torque transfer to wheels with traction.
Robust design and sealing for reliability.
No maintenance required.
OPERATION
Full-time 4-wheel drive distributes torque to all wheels under normal driving conditions. The transfer case uses
an open (unlocked) center differential to divide engine torque nearly evenly between the front and rear axles -
48 percent to the front axle and 52 percent to the rear axle. The open differential allows the front and rear drive
shafts to rotate at different speeds to account for front and rear wheels traveling different distances when
turning. Because the drive shafts can rotate at different speeds, the vehicle can remain in full-time 4-wheel drive
mode continuously - even on dry pavement - without threat of damage to the drive train. The standard-
equipment ESP, which combines ABS, Traction Control, and Electronic Roll Mitigation, enhances traction by
modulating torque among all wheels as necessary - providing resistance to any wheel that is slipping while
allowing torque to flow to the wheels with traction.
REMOVAL
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Fig. 2: Identifying MP140 Transfer Case, Nuts, Transmission & Transfer Case Vent Tube
1 - MP140 TRANSFER CASE

2 - NUTS
3 - TRANSMISSION
4 - TRANSFER CASE VENT TUBE
1. Raise vehicle.
CAUTION: Do not allow propshafts to hang at attached end. Damage to joint can
result.
2. Remove the front and rear propeller shafts. Refer to REMOVAL .

3. Support transmission with jack stand.
4. Remove rear crossmember and skid plate, if equipped.
5. Disconnect transfer case vent hose (4). See Fig. 2.
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6. Disconnect the wiring connector from the shift motor, if necessary.

7. Support transfer case with transmission jack and secure with chains.
8. Remove nuts (2) attaching transfer case (1) to transmission (3).
9. Pull transfer case and jack rearward to disengage transfer case.
10. Remove transfer case from under vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
TRANSFER CASE-MP140
Fig. 3: Identifying Fill Plug, Drain Plug, ID Tag, Dampener & Output Shaft Flange
1 - FILL PLUG
2 - DRAIN PLUG
3 - ID TAG
4 - DAMPENER
5 - OUTPUT SHAFT FLANGE
1. Position transfer case on shallow drain pan. Remove drain plug (2) and drain lubricant.
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Fig. 4: Identifying Holder Tool, Output shaft Flange & Dampener

1 - HOLDER TOOL C-3281

3 - DAMPENER
2. Using Holder C-3281 (1), remove the rear output flange nut.
Fig. 5: Identifying Output Shaft Flange & Main Shaft

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2 - MAIN SHAFT
3. Remove the rear output shaft flange (1) from the main shaft (2). If flange is difficult to remove by hand,
remove it with bearing splitter, or with standard two jaw puller. Be sure puller tool is positioned securely
on flange.
Fig. 6: Removing/Installing Rear Output Shaft Flange From Main Shaft

1 - DAMPENER BOLTS
2 - REAR CASE
4. Remove the bolts holding the dampener to the rear case.
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Fig. 7: Identifying Dampener

1 - DAMPENER
5. Remove the dampener (1) from the rear case.
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Fig. 8: Removing/Installing Rear Housing Bolts

1 - REAR HOUSING
2 - BOLTS
3 - FRONT HOUSING
6. Support transfer case so rear case is facing upward and the input gear is not contacting the work surface.
7. Remove bolts (2) holding front case to rear case (1).
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Fig. 9: Removing/Installing Rear & Front Housing

1 - REAR HOUSING
2 - FRONT HOUSING
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the front and rear case sealing surfaces.
8. Loosen rear case with a case splitter or suitable tool to break sealer bead. Insert case splitter or suitable
tool only into notches provided at each end of case.
9. Remove rear case (1) from front case (2).
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Fig. 10: Identifying Front Output Shaft & Retaining Ring

1 - FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT

2 - RETAINING RING
10. Remove mainshaft drive sprocket retaining ring.

11. Remove front output shaft drive sprocket retaining ring (2) from the front output shaft (1). See Fig. 10.
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Fig. 11: Identifying Front Drive Sprocket, Mainshaft Drive Sprocket & Drive Chain
1 - FRONT DRIVE SPROCKET

2 - MAINSHAFT DRIVE SPROCKET
3 - DRIVE CHAIN
12. Remove the drive sprockets (1, 2) and the drive chains (3) as one.
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Fig. 12: Removing/Installing Mainshaft & Differential Assembly

1 - MAINSHAFT AND DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY

2 - FRONT HOUSING
13. Remove the mainshaft and differential assembly (1) from the front case (2).
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Fig. 13: Removing/Installing Input Gear Thrust Washer

1 - THRUST WASHER
2 - INPUT GEAR
14. Remove the input gear thrust washer (1) from the input gear (2).
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Fig. 14: Remove/Install Chain Guide Screws

1 - SCREWS
2 - FRONT CASE
15. Remove the screws (1) holding both chain guide rails to the front case (2).
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Fig. 15: Remove/Install Chain Guide

1 - DRIVE CHAIN GUIDE
16. Remove both drive chain guide rails(1) from the transfer case.
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Fig. 16: Removing/Installing Differential Snap-Ring

1 - DIFFERENTIAL SNAP-RING
17. Remove the differential snap-ring (1).
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Fig. 17: Removing/Installing Differential

1 - DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
2 - MAINSHAFT
18. Remove the differential assembly (1) from the mainshaft (2).
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Fig. 18: Removing/Installing Mode Hub and Retainer

19. Remove the mode hub (2) and mode hub retainer from the differential assembly (1).
20. Remove the mode hub retainer (2) from the mode hub (1).
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Fig. 19: Remove/Install Front Output Shaft Retaining Ring


2 - RETAINING RING
21. Remove the retaining ring (2) from the front output shaft (1).
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Fig. 20: Installing Front Output Shaft Assembly Into Front Case And Front Output Shaft Front
Bearing
1 - FRONT HOUSING
22. Remove the front output shaft assembly (2) from the front case (1) and the front output shaft front
bearing.
23. Remove the front output shaft seal with a suitable pry tool or a screw mounted in a slide hammer.
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Fig. 21: Removing/Installing Input Gear

1 - FRONT HOUSING
2 - INPUT GEAR
24. Remove the input gear (2) from the front case (1).
25. Remove the input shaft seal with a suitable pry tool or a screw mounted in a slide hammer.
CLEANING
CLEANING-TRANSFER CASE MP140
The use of crocus cloth is permissible where necessary, providing it is used carefully. When used on shafts, or
valves, use extreme care to avoid rounding off sharp edges. Sharp edges are vital as they prevent foreign matter
from getting between the valve and valve bore.
Do not reuse oil seals, gaskets, seal rings, or O-rings during overhaul. Replace these parts as a matter of course.
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Also do not reuse snap rings or E-clips that are bent or distorted. Replace these parts as well.
Lubricate transfer case parts with Mopar® ATF+4 ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid, during overhaul and
assembly. Use petroleum jelly to prelubricate seals, O-rings, and thrust washers. Petroleum jelly can also be
used to hold parts in place during reassembly.
Clean the case in a solvent tank. Flush the case bores and fluid passages thoroughly with solvent. Dry the case
and all fluid passages with compressed air. Be sure all solvent is removed from the case and that all fluid
passages are clear.
NOTE: Do not use shop towels or rags to dry the case (or any other transmission
component) unless they are made from lint-free materials. Lint will stick to case
surfaces and transmission components and circulate throughout the
transmission after assembly. A sufficient quantity of lint can block fluid
passages and interfere with valve body operation.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION-TRANSFER CASE MP140
Inspect the case for cracks, porous spots, worn bores, or damaged threads. Damaged threads can be repaired
with Helicoil® thread inserts. However, the case will have to be replaced if it exhibits any type of damage or
wear.
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY-TRANSFER CASE - MP140
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Fig. 22: Removing Input Shaft Bearing From Front Case With Handle C-4171 And Installer 8693A
1 - HANDLE C-4171
2 - INSTALLER 8693A
3 - FRONT HOUSING
1. Remove the input shaft bearing from the front case (3) with Handle C-4171 (1) and Installer 8693A (2).
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Fig. 23: Installing New Input Gear Bearing Into Front Case Using Installer 8152, Inverted, And
Handle C-4171
1 - INPUT GEAR BEARING

2 - FRONT CASE
2. Install the new input gear bearing into the front case (3) using Installer 8152 (2), inverted, and Handle C-
4171 (1).
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Fig. 24: Using Installer 7829A And Handle C-4171 To Remove Front Output Shaft Bearing From
Front Case
1 - HANDLE C-4171
2 - INSTALLER 7829A
3 - FRONT HOUSING
3. Using Installer 7829A (2) and Handle C-4171 (1), remove front output shaft bearing from the front case
(3).
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Fig. 25: Using Installer 8152, Inverted, And Handle C-4171 To Seat Bearing In Front Case
1 - HANDLE C-4171
2 - INSTALLER 8152
3 - FRONT HOUSING
4. Start front output shaft bearing in the front case. Using Installer 8152 (2), inverted, and Handle C-4171
(1), seat the bearing in the front case (3).
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Fig. 26: Installing New Main Shaft Rear Bearing Into Rear Case Using Installer 8152, Inverted,
And Handle C-4171
1 - HANDLE C-4171
2 - INSTALLER 8152
3 - REAR HOUSING
5. Remove the main shaft rear bearing from the rear case using Installer 5066 and Handle C-4171.
6. Install the new main shaft rear bearing into the rear case (3) using Installer 8152 (2), inverted, and Handle
C-4171 (1).
7. Install a new rear output seal into the rear case with Installer C-3972A.
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Bearing
1 - FRONT HOUSING
8. Install a new front output shaft seal with Installer 6560.

9. Install the front output shaft assembly (2) into the front case (1) and the front output shaft front bearing.
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Fig. 28: Remove/Install Front Output Shaft Retaining Ring


2 - RETAINING RING
10. Install the retaining ring (2) onto the front output shaft (1).
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Fig. 29: Removing/Installing Input Gear

1 - FRONT HOUSING
2 - INPUT GEAR
11. Install the input gear (2) into the front case (1).
12. Install the new input shaft seal with Installer 9672 and Handle C-4171.
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Fig. 30: Removing/Installing Mode Hub and Retainer

13. Install the mode hub (2) onto the differential assembly (1).
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Fig. 31: Removing/Installing Differential

2 - MAINSHAFT
14. Install the differential assembly (1) onto the mainshaft (2).
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Fig. 32: Removing/Installing Differential Snap-Ring

1 - DIFFERENTIAL SNAP-RING
15. Install the differential snap-ring (1). See Fig. 32.
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Fig. 33: Remove/Install Chain Guide

16. Install both drive chain guide (1) onto the transfer case.
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Fig. 34: Remove/Install Chain Guide Screws

1 - SCREWS
2 - FRONT CASE
17. Install the screws (1) to hold both chain guide rail to the front case (2). Tighten the screws to 5-8 N.m
(44-71 in.lbs.).
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Fig. 35: Removing/Installing Input Gear Thrust Washer

1 - THRUST WASHER
2 - INPUT GEAR
18. Install the input gear thrust washer (1) onto the input gear (2).
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Fig. 36: Removing/Installing Mainshaft & Differential Assembly

1 - MAINSHAFT AND DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY

2 - FRONT HOUSING
NOTE: Be sure that the input spline is engaged with the differential assembly.
19. Install the mainshaft and differential assembly (1) into the front case (2) and input gear.
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Fig. 37: Identifying Front Drive Sprocket, Mainshaft Drive Sprocket & Drive Chain

3 - DRIVE CHAIN
20. Install the drive sprockets (1, 2) and drive chains (3) as one.
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Fig. 38: Identifying Front Output Shaft & Retaining Ring


2 - RETAINING RING
21. Install the front output shaft (1) drive sprocket retaining ring (2).
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Fig. 39: Removing/Installing Mode Hub Spacer

1 - OUTPUT SHAFT
2 - MODE HUB SPACER
3 - MODE HUB
22. Install the mode hub spacer (2) onto the output shaft (1) and the mode hub (3).
23. Install the mainshaft drive sprocket retaining ring onto the mainshaft.
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Fig. 40: Removing/Installing Rear Housing

1 - REAR HOUSING
2 - FRONT HOUSING
24. Install the transfer case magnet into the magnet pocket.
25. Apply bead of Mopar® Gasket Maker, or equivalent, to mating surface of front case. Keep sealer bead
width to maximum of 3 mm (0.125 inch). Do not use excessive amount of sealer as excess will be
displaced into case interior.
26. Install the rear case (1) onto the front case (2).
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Fig. 41: Removing/Installing Rear Housing Bolts

1 - REAR HOUSING
2 - BOLTS
3 - FRONT HOUSING
27. Install the bolts (2) to hold the rear case (1) to the front case (3). Tighten the bolts at the alignment dowel
locations first. Tighten the bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft.lbs.).
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Fig. 42: Identifying Dampener

1 - DAMPENER
28. Install the dampener (1) onto the rear case.
Fig. 43: Removing/Installing Rear Output Shaft Flange From Main Shaft
1 - DAMPENER BOLTS
2 - REAR CASE
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29. Install the bolts (1) to hold the damper (2) to the rear case (3). Tighten the bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft.lbs.).
Fig. 44: Identifying Output Shaft Flange & Main Shaft


2 - MAIN SHAFT
30. Install the rear output flange (1) onto the output shaft (2).
Fig. 45: Identifying Holder Tool, Output shaft Flange & Dampener
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1 - HOLDER TOOL C-3281

3 - DAMPENER
31. Using Holder C-3281 (1), install the rear companion flange nut. Tighten the nut to 122-176 N.m (90-130
ft.lbs.).
Fig. 46: Fill/Drain Plug And I.D. Tag Locations

1 - I.D. TAG
2 - FILL PLUG
3 - DRAIN PLUG
32. Install and tighten drain plug (3) to 20-34 N.m (15-25 ft. lbs.)
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 47: Identifying MP140 Transfer Case, Nuts, Transmission & Transfer Case Vent Tube
1 - MP140 TRANSFER CASE

2 - NUTS
3 - TRANSMISSION
1. Mount transfer case on a transmission jack.

2. Secure transfer case to jack with chains.
3. Position transfer case under vehicle.
4. Align transfer case (1) and transmission (3) shafts and install transfer case onto the transmission. See Fig.
47.
5. Install and tighten transfer case attaching nuts (2) to 35 N.m (26 ft. lbs.) torque.
6. Connect the transfer case vent hose (4).
7. Connect front propeller shaft and install rear propeller shaft. Refer to INSTALLATION .
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1 - I.D. TAG
2 - FILL PLUG
3 - DRAIN PLUG
8. For NV140, fill transfer case with correct fluid. Refer to DESCRIPTION . Correct as necessary.
9. Install the transfer case fill plug (1). Tighten the plug to 12 - 15N.m (9-11 ft.lbs.).
10. Install rear crossmember and skid plate, if equipped. Tighten crossmember bolts to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.)
torque.
11. Remove transmission jack and support stand.
12. Lower vehicle and verify transfer case shift operation.
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS
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FLUID TYPE MOPAR® AFT+4
Capacity .85L (180 pints)
Bolt, crossmember 41 30 -
Plugs, drain/fill 12 - 15 9 - 11 -
Bolts, case half 27 20 -
Nut, companion flange 122-176 90-130 -
Screws, Chain Guide Rail 5-8 - 44-71
Nuts, Transfer Case to
35 26 -
Transmission
Bolt, Damper to Transfer
27 20 -
Case
SPECIAL TOOLS
SPECIAL TOOLS-MP140
Fig. 49: Flange Wrench C-3281
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Fig. 51: Universal Driver Handle - C4171

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Fig. 52: Bearing & Bushing Installer 5066

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Fig. 53: Installer, Seal - 6560

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Fig. 54: Installer - 7829A

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Fig. 55: Installer - 8152

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FLUID
STANDARD PROCEDURE
FLUID DRAIN/REFILL
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1 - I.D. TAG
2 - FILL PLUG
3 - DRAIN PLUG
NOTE: The fill (2) and drain (3) plugs are both in the rear case.
1. Position drain pan under transfer case.

2. Remove drain and fill plugs and drain lubricant completely.
3. Install drain plug. Tighten plug to 12 -15 N.m (9 -11ft. lbs.).
4. Remove drain pan.
5. Fill transfer case to bottom edge of fill plug opening with the required fluid. Refer to DESCRIPTION .
6. Install and tighten fill plug to 12-15 N.m (9-1 1ft. lbs.).
SEAL-FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT
REMOVAL
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FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
The front output shaft seal and wear sleeve cannot be serviced in the vehicle. The transfer case must be
disassembled to remove the front output shaft assembly and seal.
SEAL-REAR OUTPUT SHAFT
REMOVAL
Fig. 59: Remove/Install Rear Output Shaft Nut

1 - HOLDER C-3281
2 - REAR OUTPUT SHAFT FLANGE

2. Using Holder C-3281 (1), remove the rear companion flange (2) nut. See Fig. 59.
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Fig. 60: Remove/Install Rear Output Shaft Flange


2 - REAR OUTPUT SHAFT
3. Remove the rear output flange (1) from the main shaft (2). If necessary, use a suitable 2 or 3 jaw puller to
remove the output shaft flange. See Fig. 60.
4. Remove the rear output seal with a suitable pry tool or a screw mounted in a slide hammer.
INSTALLATION
TRANSFER CASE -MP140
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Fig. 61: Remove/Install Rear Output Shaft Flange


2 - REAR OUTPUT SHAFT
1. Install a new rear output seal into the rear cover with Installer C-3972A.
2. Install the rear output flange (1) onto the main shaft (2). See Fig. 61.
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Fig. 62: Remove/Install Rear Output Shaft Nut

1 - HOLDER C-3281
3. Using Holder C-3281 (1), install the rear companion flange (2) nut. Tighten the nut to 122-176 N.m (90-
130 ft.lbs.). See Fig. 62.
4. Install the rear propeller shaft. Refer to REMOVAL .
5. Check the transfer case fluid level. See STANDARD PROCEDURE. Correct as necessary.
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2007 TRANSFER CASE
MP143 - Service Information - Nitro
MP143 - SERVICE INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION-TRANSFER CASE MP143
Fig. 1: Exploded View Of MP143

1 - INPUT SHAFT SEAL 16 - SHIFT MOTOR

2 - FRONT CASE 17 - DRAIN/FILL PLUGS
3 - MAINSHAFT 18- DRIVE CHAIN
4 - MODE SLEEVE 19 - SHIFT LEVER PAD
5 - MODE HUB 20 - MODE FORK ASSEMBLY
6 - DRIVE SPROCKET 21- RETAINING CLIP
7 - RETAINING RING 22 - RETAINING RING
8 - THRUST WASHER 23 - DRIVE GEAR
9 - RETAINING RING 24 - SHIFT LEVER RETURN SPRING
10 - REAR CASE 25 - RETAINING RING
11 - OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL 26 - POCKET MAGNET
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12 - DAMPENER 27 - DOWEL PIN

13 - OUTPUT FLANGE 28 - CHAIN GUIDE RAILS
14 - OUTPUT FLANGE NUT 29 - FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
15 - ID TAG 30 - FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT FLANGE
Available with both manual and automatic transmissions, the MP143 single-speed, part-time transfer case is
used in Nitro's new Part-Time Four-Wheel Drive System. Two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive modes are
electronically controlled via a switch in the center console. Either mode can be selected at any time. The MP143
transfer case works with standard-equipment Traction Control and ESP (Electronic Stability Program) features
to provide enhanced traction and stability on low-traction surfaces.
Two operating positions: 2WD and 4Lock controlled via a switch in the center console.
For temporary conditions that require extra traction such as snow or mud, the part-time 4Lock mode locks
the main shaft and drive sprocket hub, making the front and rear wheels rotate in unison and offering
maximum traction.
Enhanced traction and stability provided by Traction Control and ESP working in tandem with part-time
four-wheel-drive. Traction Control and ESP provide resistance to any wheel that is slipping to allow
additional torque transfer to wheels with traction.
Robust design and sealing for reliability.
Maintenance free.
OPERATION
OPERATION-TRANSFER CASE MP143
Fig. 2: Transfer Case MP143 Component Locations

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1 - FILL PLUG 4 - SHIFT MOTOR

2 - DRAIN PLUG 5 - DAMPENER
3 - ID TAG 6 - REAR OUTPUT SHAFT FLANGE
In 2WD mode, the front axle and driveshaft turn freely while power is sent to the rear axle and wheels. In
4Lock mode, the front and rear wheels rotate in unison, resulting in remarkable traction. Because this is a part-
time system, it locks the front and rear drive shafts together. Therefore, it can only be used on slippery or loose
surfaces like ice, gravel, or rugged terrain. The standard-equipment ESP, which combines ABS, Traction
Control, and Electronic Roll Mitigation, enhances traction by modulating torque among all wheels as necessary
- providing resistance to any wheel that is slipping while allowing torque to flow to the wheels with traction.
The MP143 transfer case also has an analog shift actuator mounted on the rear of the transfer case that
communicates with the switch through the CAN-bus network.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL-TRANSFER CASE MP143
Fig. 3: Identifying Transfer Case, Nuts, Transmission & Transfer Case Vent Tube
1 - TRANSFER CASE
2 - NUTS
3 - TRANSMISSION
1. Raise vehicle.
CAUTION: Do not allow propshafts to hang at attached end. Damage to joint can
result.
2. Remove the front and rear propeller shafts. Refer to REMOVAL .

3. Support transmission with jack stand.
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4. Remove rear crossmember and skid plate, if equipped.

5. Disconnect transfer case vent hose (4).
6. Disconnect the transfer case shift motor electrical connector and position the harness aside.
7. Disconnect the wiring connector from the shift motor, if necessary.
8. Support transfer case with transmission jack and secure with chains.
9. Remove nuts (2) attaching transfer case (1) to transmission (3).
10. Pull transfer case and jack rearward to disengage transfer case form the transmission case.
11. Remove transfer case from under vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY-TRANSFER CASE -MP143


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1. Position transfer case on shallow drain pan. Remove drain plug (2) and drain lubricant.
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Fig. 6: Using Holder C-3281 To Remove/Install Rear Output Flange Nut

1 - HOLDER C-3281
2. Using Holder C-3281 (1), remove the rear output flange (2) nut.
Fig. 7: Removing/Installing Rear Output Flange

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2 - MAINSHAFT
3. Remove the rear output shaft flange (1) from the main shaft. If flange is difficult to remove by hand,
remove it with bearing splitter, or with standard two jaw puller. Be sure puller tool is positioned securely
on flange.
Fig. 8: Removing/Installing Dampener Bolts

4. Remove the dampener bolts from the transfer case.
Fig. 9: Removing/Installing Dampener

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5. Remove the dampener from the transfer case.
Fig. 10: Removing/Installing Shift Motor Bolts

6. Remove the shift motor bolts from the transfer case.
Fig. 11: Removing/Installing Shift Motor

1 - SHIFT MOTOR
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7. Remove the shift motor (1) from the transfer case.
Fig. 12: Removing/Installing Transfer Case Bolts

8. Support transfer case so rear case is facing upward and the input gear is not contacting the work surface.
9. Remove bolts holding front case to rear case.
Fig. 13: Removing/Installing Rear Case From Front Case

1 - REAR HOUSING
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2 - FRONT HOUSING
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the front and rear case sealing surfaces.
10. Loosen rear case with a case splitter or suitable tool to break sealer bead. Insert case splitter or suitable
tool only into notches provided at each end of case.
11. Remove rear case (1) from front case (2).
Fig. 14: Remove Front Drive Sprocket Retaining Ring


2 - RETAINING RING
12. Remove front output shaft drive sprocket retaining ring (2) from the front output shaft (1).
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Fig. 15: Removing/Installing Retaining Ring

1 - RETAINING RING
13. Remove mainshaft drive sprocket retaining ring (1).
Fig. 16: Removing Drive Sprockets And Drive Chain


3 - DRIVE CHAIN
14. Remove the drive sprockets (1, 2) and the drive chain (3) as one.
Fig. 17: Removing Mainshaft And Mode Fork Assembly From Front Case
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1 - MAINSHAFT
2 - MODE FORK ASSEMBLY
15. Remove the mainshaft (1) and mode fork assembly (2) from the front case.
Fig. 18: Removing/Installing Mode Fork Assembly Onto Mainshaft


2 - MAINSHAFT
16. Remove the mode fork assembly (1) from the mainshaft (2).
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Fig. 19: Removing/Installing Mode Fork Spring

1 - MODE FORK
2 - MODE FORK RETURN SPRING
17. Remove the mode fork spring (2) from the mode fork rod (1).
Fig. 20: Removing/Installing Mode Sleeve

1 - MAINSHAFT
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2 - MODE SLEEVE
18. Remove the mode sleeve (2) from the mainshaft (1).
Fig. 21: Removing/Installing Mode Hub Snap Ring

1 - MODE HUB SNAP RING

2 - MODE HUB
3 - MAINSHAFT
19. Remove the mode hub snap ring (1) from the mainshaft (3).
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Fig. 22: Removing/Installing Mode Hub

1 - MODE HUB
2 - MAINSHAFT
20. Remove the mode hub (1) from the mainshaft (2).
Fig. 23: Removing Screws Holding Both Chain Guide Rails To Front Case
1 - SCREWS
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2 - FRONT CASE
21. Remove the screws (1) holding both chain guide rails to the front case (2).
Fig. 24: Removing Both Chain Guide Rails From Transfer Case
22. Remove both chain guide rails (1) from the transfer case.
23. Remove the magnet from the magnet pocket.
Fig. 25: Removing Front Output Shaft Assembly From Front Case And Front Output Shaft Front
Bearing
1 - FRONT HOUSING
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24. Remove the front output shaft assembly (2) from the front case (1) and the front output shaft front
bearing.
25. Remove the front output shaft seal with a suitable pry tool or a screw mounted in a slide hammer.
26. Remove the input shaft seal with a suitable pry tool or a screw mounted in a slide hammer.
CLEANING
CLEANING-TRANSFER CASE MP143
The use of crocus cloth is permissible where necessary, providing it is used carefully. When used on shafts, or
valves, use extreme care to avoid rounding off sharp edges. Sharp edges are vital as they prevent foreign matter
from getting between the valve and valve bore.
Do not reuse oil seals, gaskets, seal rings, or O-rings during overhaul. Replace these parts as a matter of course.
Also do not reuse snap rings or E-clips that are bent or distorted. Replace these parts as well.
Lubricate transfer case parts with Mopar® ATF+4 ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid, during overhaul and
assembly. Use petroleum jelly to prelubricate seals, O-rings, and thrust washers. Petroleum jelly can also be
used to hold parts in place during reassembly.
Clean the case in a solvent tank. Flush the case bores and fluid passages thoroughly with solvent. Dry the case
and all fluid passages with compressed air. Be sure all solvent is removed from the case and that all fluid
passages are clear.
NOTE: Do not use shop towels or rags to dry the case (or any other transmission
component) unless they are made from lint-free materials. Lint will stick to case
surfaces and transmission components and circulate throughout the
transmission after assembly. A sufficient quantity of lint can block fluid
passages and interfere with valve body operation.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION-TRANSFER CASE MP143
Inspect the case for cracks, porous spots, worn bores, or damaged threads. Damaged threads can be repaired
with Helicoil® thread inserts. However, the case will have to be replaced if it exhibits any type of damage or
wear.
ASSEMBLY
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Fig. 27: Removing Input Shaft Bearing From Front Case With Handle C-4171 And Installer 8693A
1 - HANDLE C-4171
2 - INSTALLER 8693A
3 - FRONT HOUSING
1. Remove the input shaft bearing from the front case (3) with Handle C-4171 (1) and Installer 8693A (2).
Fig. 28: Installing New Input Gear Bearing Into Front Case Using Installer 8152, Inverted, And
Handle C-4171
1 - INPUT GEAR BEARING

2 - FRONT CASE
2. Install the new input gear bearing into the front case (3) using Installer 8152(2), inverted, and Handle C-
4171 (1).
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Fig. 29: Using Installer 7829A And Handle C-4171 To Remove Front Output Shaft Bearing From
Front Case
1 - HANDLE C-4171
2 - INSTALLER 7829A
3 - FRONT HOUSING
3. Using Installer 7829A (2) and Handle C-4171 (1), remove front output shaft bearing from the front case
(3).
Fig. 30: Using Installer 8152, Inverted, And Handle C-4171 To Seat Bearing In Front Case
1 - HANDLE C-4171
2 - INSTALLER 8152
3 - FRONT HOUSING
4. Start front output shaft bearing in the front case. Using Installer 8152 (2), inverted, and Handle C-4171
(1), seat the bearing in the front case (3).
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Fig. 31: Installing New Main Shaft Rear Bearing Into Rear Case Using Installer 8245, And Handle
C-4171
1 - HANDLE C-4171
2 - INSTALLER 8152
3 - REAR HOUSING
5. Remove the main shaft rear bearing from the rear case using Installer 5066 and Handle C-4171.
6. Install the new main shaft rear bearing into the rear case (3) using Installer 8245 (2), and Handle C-4171
(1).
Bearing
1 - FRONT HOUSING
7. Install a new front output shaft seal with Installer 6560.

8. Install the front output shaft assembly (2) into the front case (1) and the front output shaft front bearing.
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Fig. 33: Installing Retaining Ring Onto Front Output Shaft


2 - RETAINING RING
9. Install the retaining ring (2) onto the front output shaft (1).
10. Install the new input shaft seal with Installer 9672 and Handle C-4171.
Fig. 34: Installing Both Drive Chain Guide Rails Onto Transfer Case
11. Install the both drive chain guide rails (1) onto the transfer case.
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Fig. 35: Installing Screws To Hold Both Chain Guide Rails To Front Case
1 - SCREWS
2 - FRONT CASE
12. Install the screws (1) to hold the both chain guide rails to the front case (2). Tighten the screws to 5-8
N.m (44-71 in.lbs.).
Fig. 36: Removing/Installing Mode Hub

1 - MODE HUB
2 - MAINSHAFT
13. Install the mode hub (1) onto the mainshaft (2).
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Fig. 37: Removing/Installing Mode Hub Snap Ring

1 - MODE HUB SNAP RING

2 - MODE HUB
3 - MAINSHAFT
14. Install the mode hub snap ring (1) onto the mainshaft (3).
Fig. 38: Removing/Installing Mode Sleeve

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1 - MAINSHAFT
2 - MODE SLEEVE
15. Install the mode sleeve (2) onto the mainshaft (1).
Fig. 39: Removing/Installing Mode Fork Spring

1 - MODE FORK
2 - MODE FORK RETURN SPRING
16. Install the mode fork return spring (2) onto the mode fork (1).
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Fig. 40: Removing/Installing Mode Fork Assembly Onto Mainshaft


2 - MAINSHAFT
17. Install the mode fork assembly (1) onto the mainshaft (2).
Fig. 41: Installing Drive Sprockets And Drive Chain And Shift Lever

3 - DRIVE CHAIN
18. Install the drive sprockets (1, 2) and drive chain (3) and shift lever as one.
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Fig. 42: Installing Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket Retaining Ring

2 - RETAINING RING
19. Install the front output shaft (1) drive sprocket retaining ring (2).
Fig. 43: Removing/Installing Retaining Ring

1 - RETAINING RING
20. Install the mainshaft retaining ring (1).
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Fig. 44: Removing/Installing Rear Case From Front Case

1 - REAR HOUSING
2 - FRONT HOUSING
21. Install the transfer case magnet into the magnet pocket.
22. Apply bead of Mopar® Gasket Maker, or equivalent, to mating surface of front case. Keep sealer bead
width to maximum of 3 mm (0.125 inch). Do not use excessive amount of sealer as excess will be
displaced into case interior.
23. Install the rear case (1) onto the front case (2).
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Fig. 45: Removing/Installing Transfer Case Bolts

NOTE: Tighten the bolts at the alignment dowel locations first.
24. Apply MOPAR® lock and seal onto the transfer case bolts and install the transfer case bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft.lbs.).
Fig. 46: Removing/Installing Shift Motor O-Ring

1 - SHIFT MOTOR O-RING

2 - SHIFT MOTOR
NOTE: If reusing the original shift motor be certain to replace the O-ring.
25. Lubricate the shift motor O-ring with trans jell or petroleum jelly.
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1 - SHIFT MOTOR
26. Install the shift motor (1) into the transfer case.

27. Apply MOPAR® lock and seal onto the shift motor bolts and install the shift motor bolts into the transfer
case. Tighten the shift motor bolts to 12 N.m (9 ft.lbs.).
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Fig. 49: Removing/Installing Dampener

28. Install a new rear output seal into the rear case with Installer C-3972A.
29. Install the dampener onto the transfer case.
Fig. 50: Removing/Installing Dampener Bolts

30. Apply MOPAR® lock and seal onto the dampener bolts and install the dampener bolts into the transfer
case. Tighten the transfer case dampener bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft.lbs.).
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Fig. 51: Removing/Installing Rear Output Flange


2 - MAINSHAFT
31. Install the rear output flange (1) onto the output shaft (2).
Fig. 52: Using Holder C-3281 To Remove/Install Rear Output Flange Nut
1 - HOLDER C-3281
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32. Using Holder C-3281 (1), install the rear output shaft flange (2) nut. Tighten the nut to 122-176 N.m (90-
130 ft.lbs.).


33. Install and tighten drain plug (2) to 12-15 N.m (9-11 ft. lbs.).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION-TRANSFER CASE MP143
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Fig. 54: Identifying Transfer Case, Nuts, Transmission & Transfer Case Vent Tube
1 - TRANSFER CASE
2 - NUTS
3 - TRANSMISSION
1. Mount transfer case on a transmission jack.

2. Secure transfer case to jack with chains.
3. Position transfer case under vehicle.
4. Align transfer case (1) and transmission (3) shafts and install transfer case onto the transmission.
5. Install and tighten transfer case attaching nuts (2) to 35 N.m (26 ft. lbs.) torque.
6. Connect the transfer case shift motor electrical connector.
7. Connect the transfer case vent hose (4).
8. Connect front propeller shaft and install rear propeller shaft. Refer to INSTALLATION .
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9. Fill transfer case to bottom edge of fill plug (1) opening with MOPAR® ATF+4 ATF.
10. Install the transfer case fill plug (1). Tighten the plug to 12-15N.m (9-11 ft.lbs.).
11. Install rear crossmember and skid plate, if equipped. Tighten crossmember bolts to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.)
torque.
12. Remove transmission jack and support stand.
13. Lower vehicle and verify transfer case shift operation.
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS-TRANS CASE MP143
SPECIFICATIONS
FLUID TYPE MOPAR® AFT+4
Capacity .85L (180 pints)
Bolt, crossmember 41 30 -
Plugs, drain/fill 12-15 9-11 -
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Bolts, case half 27 20 -

Nut, companion flange 122-176 90-130 -
Screws, Chain Guide Rail 5-8 - 44-71
Bolts, Shift Motor 12 9 -
Nuts, Transfer Case to
35 26 -
Transmission
Bolt, Damper to Transfer
27 20 -
Case
SPECIAL TOOLS
SPECIAL TOOLS-MP143
Fig. 56: Holder, Yoke - C-3281


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Fig. 58: Universal Handle C-4171

Fig. 59: Installer, Bushing - 5066

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Fig. 62: Installer - 8152


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FLUID
STANDARD PROCEDURE
FLUID DRAIN/REFILL
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1. Raise vehicle.
NOTE: The fill (2) and drain (3) plugs are both in the rear case.
2. Position drain pan under transfer case.

3. Remove drain and fill plugs and drain lubricant completely.
4. Install drain plug. Tighten plug to 12-15 N.m (9-11 ft. lbs.).
5. Remove drain pan.
6. Fill transfer case to bottom edge of fill plug opening with MOPAR® ATF+4 ATF.
7. Install and tighten fill plug to 12-15 N.m (9-11 ft. lbs.).
8. Lower vehicle.
SEAL-FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT
REMOVAL
FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
The front output shaft seal and wear sleeve cannot be serviced in the vehicle. The transfer case must be
disassembled to remove the front output shaft assembly and seal.
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SHIFT MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION-SHIFT MOTOR


A rotary switch on the instrument panel controls the Electric Shift on-the-fly transfer case mode selection.
Switch positions are labeled 2WD and 4 LOCK, shown by an indicator in the instrument cluster. The switch
uses resistive multiplexing to signal the Front Control Module (FCM) which mode to select.
OPERATION
OPERATION-SHIFT MOTOR
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The FCM, which receives its operating signal from the switch via the Cab Compartment Node and the CAN
intra-vehicle communications network, operates an electric motor that shifts the transfer case. The FCM obtains
additional data necessary for operation and provides diagnostic outputs via the CAN network. Diagnostic
outputs include fault codes and the ability to "read" switch position and position sensor output. For test
purposes, a diagnostic tester such as the MDT II or the MOPAR Diagnostic System can operate the motor. A
warning lamp in the instrument cluster illuminates if a malfunction in the electric-shift system occurs.
A motor and encoder (position sensor) replace a lever on the shaft that shifts the transfer case. When a shift is
requested, the motor turns the shaft until the sensor indicates that the correct angular position has been reached.
To prevent the transfer case from making unintended shifts, the switch must be in position for 0.25 seconds
before a shift will take place. A shift can take up to 1.25 seconds from the time that the switch is moved for full
travel. If the shift is not completed in the appropriate time, the module will repeat the action up to five times.
Misalignment of the gears in the transfer case may block a shift, which will be detected by a sensor; the motor
will then reverse and try again to complete the shift. Blockage can occur if the vehicle is stationary when the
shift is initiated, but if the vehicle is moving as recommended when the shift is initiated, then blockage is
unlikely. If the shift is not completed after five attempts, the cluster indicator will flash and the driver will have
to return the switch to its former position and repeat the operation.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL-SHIFT MOTOR
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1. Disconnect the electrical connector from the shift motor.

2. Remove the shift motor mounting bolts.

1 - SHIFT MOTOR
3. Remove the shift motor (1) from the transfer case.
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INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION-SHIFT MOTOR
Fig. 71: Removing/Installing Shift Motor O-Ring

1 - SHIFT MOTOR O-RING

2 - SHIFT MOTOR
NOTE: If re-using the original shift motor be certain to replace the shift motor O-ring.
1. Lubricate the shift motor O-ring (1) with trans jell or petroleum jelly.
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1 - SHIFT MOTOR
2. Install the shift motor into the transfer case.

3. Apply MOPAR® lock and seal onto the shift motor bolts and install the bolts into the transfer case.
4. Tighten the shift motor bolts to 12 N.m (9 ft.lbs.).
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5. Install the electrical harness connector into the shift motor.

6. Check and fill transfer case fluid as necessary. See STANDARD PROCEDURE.
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2007 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Wipers/Washers - Service Information - Nitro
Wipers/Washers - Service Information - Nitro
WIPERS/WASHERS
DESCRIPTION
FRONT WIPER AND WASHER SYSTEM
Fig. 1: Front Wiper And Washer System Components

An electrically operated intermittent front wiper and washer system is standard factory-installed safety
equipment on this vehicle. The wiper and washer system includes the following major components, which are
described in further detail elsewhere in this service information:
 Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster - The Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also
known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) is located on the instrument panel directly in front of the
driver. Refer to DESCRIPTION .
 Front Washer Nozzle (3) - Two fluidic front washer nozzles with integral check valves are secured by
integral latch features to dedicated openings in the hood panel near the base of the windshield.
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 Front Washer Plumbing - The plumbing for the washer system consists of rubber hoses and molded
rubber or plastic fittings. The plumbing is routed across the front of the engine compartment to the right
side of the engine compartment from the washer reservoir on the left side of the cooling module, and
through the cowl plenum panel to the underside of the hood panel and the washer nozzles.
 Front Wiper Arms And Blades (5) - The two front wiper arms are secured with nuts to the threaded
ends of the two wiper pivot shafts, which extend through the cowl plenum cover/grille panel located near
the base of the windshield. The two equal length front wiper blades are each secured to their equal length
wiper arms with an integral latch, and are parked on the glass near the bottom of the windshield when the
wiper system is not in operation.
 Front Wiper Module (4) - The wiper pivot shafts are the only visible components of the front wiper
module. The remainder of the module is concealed within the cowl plenum area beneath the cowl plenum
cover/grille panel. The wiper module includes the wiper module bracket, three rubber-isolated wiper
module mounts, the wiper motor, the wiper motor crank arm, the two wiper drive links, and the two wiper
pivots.
 Right Multi-Function Switch (6) - The right (wiper) multi-function switch and the left (lighting) multi-
function switch are secured to brackets integral to the clockspring housing on the top of the steering
column just below the steering wheel. The right multi-function switch is connected by a short jumper
harness to the Steering Control Module (SCM), which is internal to the left multi-function switch
housing. Only the switch control stalk extending from the right side of the steering column is visible,
while the remainder of the switch is concealed beneath the steering column shrouds. The right multi-
function switch is dedicated to providing all of the driver controls for both the front and rear wiper and
washer systems.
 Steering Control Module - The Steering Control Module (SCM) is internal to the left multi-function
switch housing, which is secured to a bracket integral to the left side of the clockspring housing on the top
of the steering column just below the steering wheel. Only the left switch control stalk extending from the
left side of the steering column is visible, while the remainder of the switch housing containing the SCM
is concealed beneath the steering column shrouds. Refer to DESCRIPTION .
 Totally Integrated Power Module (2) - The Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) is located in the
 Washer Pump/Motor - The reversible electric washer pump/motor unit is located in a dedicated hole on
the lower outboard side of the washer reservoir, on the left side of the cooling module fan shroud. This
single reversible washer pump/motor provides washer fluid to either the front or rear washer system
plumbing, depending upon the direction of the pump motor rotation.
 Washer Reservoir (1) - The washer reservoir is integral to the coolant reserve bottle, which sits astride
the fan shroud of the cooling module. The reservoir filler cap is accessed from the left front corner of the
engine compartment.
Hard wired circuitry connects the front wiper and washer system components to the electrical system of the
vehicle. These hard wired circuits are integral to several wire harnesses, which are routed throughout the vehicle
and retained by many different methods. These circuits may be connected to each other, to the vehicle electrical
system and to the front wiper and washer system components through the use of a combination of soldered
splices, splice block connectors, and many different types of wire harness terminal connectors and insulators.
connector repair procedures, further details on wire harness routing and retention, as well as pin-out and
Microsoft
REAR WIPER AND WASHER SYSTEM
Fig. 2: Rear Wiper And Washer System Components

An electrically operated fixed interval intermittent rear wiper and washer system is standard factory-installed
equipment on this vehicle. The rear wiper and washer system includes the following major components, which
are described in further detail elsewhere in this service information:
 Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster - The Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also
known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) is located on the instrument panel directly in front of the
driver. Refer to DESCRIPTION .
 Rear Washer Nozzle (4) - A fluidic rear washer nozzle is secured by integral latch features to a
mounting hole on the right side of the Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) on the liftgate outer
panel above the liftgate glass opening.
 Rear Washer Plumbing - The plumbing for the washer system consists of rubber hoses and molded
rubber or plastic fittings. The plumbing is routed across the front of the engine compartment to the right
side of the engine compartment from the washer reservoir on the left side of the cooling module, and
through the dash into the passenger compartment. Then it is routed up the right cowl side and A-pillar to
the headliner, and above the headliner to the upper liftgate opening header, then through the upper inner
liftgate panel to the rear washer nozzle.
 Rear Wiper Arm And Blade (6) - The single rear wiper arm is secured by a nut directly to the rear
wiper motor output shaft, which extends through the center of the liftgate outer panel near the base of the
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liftgate glass. The single rear wiper blade is secured to the rear wiper arm with an integral latch, and is
parked at the base of the liftgate glass when the rear wiper system is not in operation.
 Rear Wiper Motor (5) - The rear wiper motor includes the motor bracket and three rubber-isolated
mounting tabs. The wiper motor output shaft is the only visible component of the rear wiper motor. The
remainder of the motor is concealed by the liftgate inner trim just below the liftgate glass opening.
 Right Multi-Function Switch (3) - The right (wiper) multi-function switch and the left (lighting) multi-
function switch are secured to brackets integral to the clockspring housing, on the top of the steering
column just below the steering wheel. The right multi-function switch is connected by a short jumper
harness to the Steering Control Module (SCM), which is internal to the left multi-function switch
housing. Only the switch control stalk extending from the right side of the steering column is visible,
while the remainder of the switch is concealed beneath the steering column shrouds. The right multi-
function switch is dedicated to providing all of the driver controls for both the front and rear wiper and
washer systems.
 Steering Control Module - The Steering Control Module (SCM) is internal to the left multi-function
switch housing, which is secured to a bracket integral to the left side of the clockspring housing on the top
of the steering column just below the steering wheel. Only the left switch control stalk extending from the
left side of the steering column is visible, while the remainder of the switch housing containing the SCM
is concealed beneath the steering column shrouds. Refer to DESCRIPTION .
 Totally Integrated Power Module (2) - The Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) is located in the
 Washer Pump/Motor - The reversible electric washer pump/motor unit is located in a dedicated hole on
the lower outboard side of the washer reservoir, on the left side of the cooling module fan shroud. This
single reversible washer pump/motor provides washer fluid to either the front or rear washer system
plumbing, depending upon the direction of the pump motor rotation.
 Washer Reservoir (1) - The washer reservoir is integral to the coolant reserve bottle, which sits astride
the fan shroud of the cooling module. The reservoir filler cap is accessed from the left front corner of the
engine compartment.
Hard wired circuitry connects the rear wiper and washer system components to the electrical system of the
vehicle. These hard wired circuits are integral to several wire harnesses, which are routed throughout the vehicle
and retained by many different methods. These circuits may be connected to each other, to the vehicle electrical
system and to the rear wiper and washer system components through the use of a combination of soldered
splices, splice block connectors, and many different types of wire harness terminal connectors and insulators.
connector repair procedures, further details on wire harness routing and retention, as well as pin-out and
OPERATION
Microsoft
Fig. 3: Right (Wiper) Multi-Function Switch

The front wiper and washer system is designed to provide the vehicle operator with a convenient, safe, and
reliable means of maintaining visibility through the windshield glass. The various components of this system
are designed to convert electrical energy produced by the vehicle electrical system into the mechanical action of
the wiper blades to wipe the outside surface of the glass, as well as into the hydraulic action of the washer
system to apply washer fluid stored in an on-board reservoir to the area of the glass to be wiped. When
combined, these components provide the means to effectively maintain clear visibility for the vehicle operator
by removing excess accumulations of rain, snow, bugs, mud, or other minor debris from the outer surface of the
windshield glass that might be encountered while driving the vehicle under numerous types of inclement
operating conditions.
The vehicle operator initiates all front and rear wiper and washer system functions with the control stalk of the
right (wiper) multi-function switch (1) that extends from the right side of the steering column, just below the
steering wheel. Rotating the control knob (2) on the end of the control stalk, selects the OFF, DELAY, LOW, or
HIGH front wiper system operating modes. In the DELAY mode, the control knob also allows the vehicle
operator to select from one of five intermittent wipe delay intervals.
Pulling the control stalk rearward actuates the momentary front washer system switch, which selects the WASH
and WIPE-AFTER-WASH modes, depending upon when and how long the switch is held closed. Pushing the
control stalk downward actuates a momentary switch and selects the MIST mode, which cycles the wiper blades
for as long as the switch is held closed then completes the current cycle and parks the blades at the base of the
windshield after the switch is released.
The right multi-function switch provides hard wired analog and resistor multiplexed inputs to the Steering
Control Module (SCM) internal to the left (lighting) multi-function switch housing for all of the wiper and
washer system functions. The SCM then sends electronic wiper and washer switch status messages to the
Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN), over a Local
Interface Network (LIN) data bus. The EMIC responds to the SCM inputs by sending electronic wiper and
washer system request messages to the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) over the Controller Area
Network (CAN) data bus requesting the appropriate wiper and washer system operating modes.
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Front wiper and washer system operation is completely controlled by the SCM, EMIC and TIPM logic circuits,
and that logic will only allow these systems to operate when the ignition switch is in the ACCESSORY or ON
positions. The TIPM uses intelligent, high current, self-protected high side switches to control wiper system
operation by energizing or de-energizing the wiper motor low and high speed brushes. The TIPM uses an H-
bridge circuit to control the operation of the reversible washer pump/motor unit. The right multi-function switch
circuitry receives battery current and a clean ground output from the SCM, then provides analog and
multiplexed inputs to the SCM to indicate the selected front wiper and front washer system mode.
The hard wired circuits and components of the front wiper and washer system may be diagnosed using
conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the front wiper and washer
system or the electronic controls or communication between other modules and devices that provide some
features of the front wiper and washer system. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the
front wiper and washer system or the electronic controls and communication related to front wiper and washer
system operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
OPERATING MODES
Following are paragraphs that briefly describe the operation of each of the front wiper and washer system
operating modes.
CONTINUOUS WIPE MODE
When the LOW position of the control knob on the control stalk of the right (wiper) multi-function switch is
selected the SCM sends an electronic wiper switch low status message to the EMIC over the LIN data bus, the
EMIC relays an electronic wiper switch low request message to the TIPM over the CAN data bus, then the
TIPM directs battery current to the low speed brush of the wiper motor, causing the wipers to cycle at low
speed.
When the HIGH position of the control knob is selected the SCM sends an electronic wiper switch high status
message to the EMIC, the EMIC relays an electronic wiper switch high request message to the TIPM, then the
TIPM directs battery current to the high speed brush of the wiper motor, causing the wipers to cycle at high
speed.
When the OFF position of the multi-function switch control knob is selected, the SCM sends an electronic
wiper switch off status message to the EMIC, the EMIC relays an electronic wiper switch off request message
to the TIPM, then one of two events will occur. The event that occurs depends upon the position of the wiper
blades on the windshield at the moment that the control knob OFF position is selected.
If the wiper blades are in the down position on the windshield when the OFF position is selected, the park
switch that is integral to the wiper motor is closed to ground, which provides a hard wired park switch sense
input to the TIPM. The TIPM then de-energizes the wiper motor and the wiper motor ceases to operate. If the
wiper blades are not in the down position on the windshield at the moment the OFF position is selected, the
park switch is an open circuit and the TIPM continues running the wiper motor at low speed until the wiper
blades are in the down position on the windshield and the park switch input to the TIPM is again closed to
ground.
INTERMITTENT WIPE MODE

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When the control knob on the control stalk of the right (wiper) multi-function switch is moved to one of the five
DELAY interval positions the SCM sends an electronic wiper switch delay interval status message to the
EMIC, the EMIC relays an electronic wiper switch delay interval request message to the TIPM, then the
TIPM electronic intermittent wipe logic circuit responds by calculating the correct length of time between wiper
sweeps based upon the selected delay interval input.
The TIPM monitors the changing state of the wiper motor park switch through a hard wired park switch sense
input. This input allows the TIPM to determine the proper intervals at which to energize and de-energize the
wiper motor intermittently for one low speed cycle at a time.
The TIPM logic is also programmed to provide vehicle speed sensitivity to the selected intermittent wipe delay
intervals. In order to provide this feature the TIPM monitors electronic vehicle speed messages from the
Controller Antilock Brake (CAB) or the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and doubles the selected delay
interval whenever the vehicle speed is about 16 kilometers-per-hour (10 miles-per-hour) or less.
MIST WIPE MODE
When the control stalk of the right (wiper) multi-function switch is moved downward to the momentary MIST
position, the SCM sends an electronic wiper mist mode status message to the EMIC, the EMIC relays an
electronic wiper mist mode request message to the TIPM, then the TIPM energizes the low speed brush of the
wiper motor for as long as the switch is held closed, then de-energizes the motor when the state of the switch
changes to open, parking the wiper blades near the base of the windshield. The TIPM can operate the front
wiper motor in this mode for only one low speed cycle at a time, or for an indefinite number of sequential low
speed cycles, depending upon how long the switch is held closed.
WASH MODE
When the control stalk of the right (wiper) multi-function switch is pulled rearward to the front momentary
WASH position for more than about one-half second with the wiper system operating, the SCM sends an
electronic washer switch status message to the EMIC, the EMIC relays an electronic washer switch request
message to the TIPM, then the TIPM directs battery current and ground to the washer pump/motor. This will
cause the washer pump/motor to be energized in the front wash direction for as long as the switch is held closed
(up to approximately 10 seconds) and to be de-energized when the control stalk is released.
When the control stalk is pulled rearward to the front momentary WASH position while the front wiper system
is operating in one of the DELAY interval positions, the washer pump/motor operation is the same. However,
the TIPM also overrides the selected delay interval and operates the front wiper motor in a continuous low
speed mode for as long as the control stalk is held in the front momentary WASH position, then reverts to the
selected delay interval several wipe cycles after the control stalk is released. If the WASH switch is held closed
for more than approximately 10 seconds, the TIPM will suspend washer pump/motor operation until the control
stalk is released for about 2 seconds and then cycled back to the WASH position.
WIPE-AFTER-WASH MODE
When the control stalk of the right (wiper) multi-function switch is pulled rearward to the front momentary
WASH position for more than about one-half second while the wiper system is not operating, the SCM sends an
electronic washer switch status message to the EMIC, the EMIC relays an electronic washer switch request
message to the TIPM, and the TIPM directs battery current and ground to the washer pump/motor and energizes
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the wiper motor in a continuous low speed mode for as long as the switch is held closed (up to approximately
10 seconds). When the control stalk is released, the TIPM de-energizes the washer pump/motor immediately,
but allows the wiper motor to operate for two or three additional wipe cycles before it de-energizes the wiper
motor and parks the wiper blades near the base of the windshield.
If the control stalk is held rearward for more than about 10 seconds, the TIPM will suspend washer pump/motor
operation until the stalk is released for about 2 seconds and then cycled back to the WASH position; however,
the wipers will continue to operate for as long as the switch is held closed. The TIPM monitors the changing
state of the wiper motor park switch through a hard wired wiper park switch sense circuit input. This input
allows the TIPM to count the number of wipe cycles that occur after the control stalk is released, and to
determine the proper interval at which to de-energize the wiper motor to complete the WIPE-AFTER-WASH
mode cycle.

The rear wiper and washer system is designed to provide the vehicle operator with a convenient, safe, and
reliable means of maintaining visibility through the liftgate glass. The various components of this system are
designed to convert electrical energy produced by the vehicle electrical system into the mechanical action of the
wiper blade to wipe the outside surface of the glass, as well as into the hydraulic action of the washer system to
apply washer fluid stored in an on-board reservoir to the area of the glass to be wiped. When combined, these
components provide the means to effectively maintain clear visibility for the vehicle operator by removing
excess accumulations of rain, snow, bugs, mud, or other minor debris from the outer surface of the liftgate glass
that might be encountered while driving the vehicle under numerous types of inclement operating conditions.
The vehicle operator initiates all front and rear wiper and washer system functions with the control stalk (1) of
the right (wiper) multi-function switch that extends from the right side of the steering column, just below the
steering wheel. Rotating the control sleeve (3) on the control stalk to the OFF or INTERMITTENT detent
positions or the momentary WASH position selects the rear wiper and washer system operating modes.
The right multi-function switch provides hard wired analog and resistor multiplexed inputs to the Steering
Microsoft
Control Module (SCM) integral to the left (lighting) multi-function switch for all of the wiper and washer
system functions. The SCM then sends electronic rear wiper/washer switch status messages to the Electro
Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) over a Local
Interface Network (LIN) data bus. The EMIC then sends electronic rear wiper/washer switch request
messages to the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus
requesting the appropriate rear wiper and washer system operating modes.
Rear wiper and washer system operation is completely controlled by the SCM, EMIC and TIPM logic circuits,
and that logic will only allow these systems to operate when the ignition switch is in the ACCESSORY or ON
positions. The TIPM uses intelligent, high current, self-protected high side switches to control wiper system
operation by energizing or de-energizing the rear wiper motor. The TIPM uses an H-bridge circuit to control the
operation of the reversible washer pump/motor unit. The right multi-function switch circuitry receives a clean
ground output from the SCM on a multi-function switch return circuit, then provides analog and resistor
multiplexed inputs to the SCM to indicate the selected rear wiper and rear washer system mode.
The hard wired circuits and components of the rear wiper and washer system may be diagnosed using
conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the rear wiper and washer system
or the electronic controls or communication between other modules and devices that provide some features of
the rear wiper and washer system. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the rear wiper
and washer system or the electronic controls and communication related to rear wiper and washer system
operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
OPERATING MODES
Following are paragraphs that briefly describe the operation of each of the rear wiper and washer system
operating modes.
INTERMITTENT WIPE MODE
When the INTERMITTENT WIPE position of the control sleeve on the control stalk of the right multi-function
switch is selected, the SCM sends an electronic rear wiper switch status message to the EMIC over the LIN
data bus, then the EMIC relays an electronic rear wiper switch request message to the TIPM over the CAN
data bus, and the TIPM directs battery current to the rear wiper motor at fixed delay intervals to enable the rear
wiper motor intermittent wipe mode.
WASH MODE
When the control sleeve of the right multi-function switch is rotated counterclockwise past the
INTERMITTENT detent position to the momentary rear WASH position, the SCM sends an electronic rear
washer switch status message to the EMIC over the LIN data bus, then the EMIC relays an electronic rear
washer switch request message to the TIPM over the CAN data bus, and the TIPM directs battery current to the
rear wiper motor and directs battery current and ground to the washer pump/motor unit. These outputs will
cause the washer pump motor and the rear wiper motor to operate continuously for as long as the switch is held
closed up to approximately 10 seconds. The washer pump is de-energized as soon as the control sleeve is
released, but the rear wiper motor continues to operate for two to three continuous cycles before reverting to the
fixed delay interval operation. The TIPM uses a hard wired output from a park switch internal to the rear wiper
motor as an additional logic input to monitor the position of the rear wiper blade on the glass and to control the
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number of continuous wiper sweeps following washer operation.
If the front wiper motor operates, but the wipers do not move on the windshield, replace the ineffective front
wiper module. If the washer pump/motor operates, but no washer fluid is dispensed on the glass; or, if the
wipers operate, but chatter, lift, or do not clear the glass, clean and inspect the front wiper and washer system
components as required. See CLEANING, and INSPECTION.
The hard wired front wiper and washer system circuits and components may be diagnosed using conventional
diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring information includes
wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire harness routing and retention,
connector pin-out information and location views for the various wire harness connectors, splices and grounds.
However, conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the front wiper and
washer system or the electronic controls or communication between other modules and devices that provide
some features of the front wiper and washer system. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to
diagnose the front wiper and washer system or the electronic controls and communication related to front wiper
and washer system operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic
information.
NOTE: The front wiper and washer switches are integral to the right multi-function
switch. The right multi-function switch is hard wired to the left multi-function
switch/Steering Control Module (SCM), which communicates with the Electro
Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC)/Cab Compartment Node (CCN) over the
Local Interface Network (LIN) data bus. Before performing any of the following
tests, determine whether the other functions of the right and left multi-function
switch/SCM are operational. If only the right multi-function switch functions are
inoperative, test and repair the right multi-function switch or the jumper
harness between the right and left multi-function switches before attempting to
repair the Front Wiper and Washer System. If both the right and left multi-
function switch/SCM functions are ineffective, diagnose and repair that problem
before attempting to repair the Front Wiper and Washer System.
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WIPER MOTOR DOES NOT 1. Ineffective motor ground 1. Test and repair open wiper motor
OPERATE IN ANY SWITCH circuit. ground circuit if required.
POSITION 2. Test and repair low speed and high
2. Ineffective motor feed
speed feed circuits between TIPM and
circuits.
front wiper motor if required.
inputs or outputs.
outputs.
5. Ineffective wiper motor. 5. Test and replace open or shorted wiper
motor as required.
WIPER MOTOR OPERATES 1. Ineffective wiper motor. 1. Check amperage draw with linkage
SLOWLY IN ALL SWITCH disconnected from wiper motor crank
POSITIONS arm. Correct draw should be about 6
amperes. If incorrect, refer to the
appropriate Possible Cause that follows:
2. Test and repair shorted low and high
2. Amperage draw too low.
speed feed circuits if required.
3. Amperage draw too high. 3. With linkage disconnected from wiper
motor crank arm check linkage and pivots
for binding. If binding is detected, repair
or replace front wiper module if required.
If no linkage binding detected, replace
the front wiper motor if required.
WIPERS RUN AT HIGH 1. Ineffective motor feed 1. Test and repair low speed and high
SPEED WITH SWITCH LOW circuit wiring. speed feed circuits between TIPM and
SPEED SELECTED OR AT front wiper motor if required.
LOW SPEED WITH SWITCH
HIGH SPEED SELECTED
If the rear wiper motor operates, but the wiper motor output shaft does not move, replace the ineffective rear
Microsoft
wiper motor. If the washer pump/motor operates, but no washer fluid is dispensed on the glass; or, if the wiper
operates, but chatters, lifts, or does not clear the glass, clean and inspect the rear wiper and washer system
components as required. See CLEANING, and INSPECTION.
The hard wired rear wiper and washer system circuits and components may be diagnosed using conventional
diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring information includes
wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire harness routing and retention,
connector pin-out information and location views for the various wire harness connectors, splices and grounds.
However, conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the rear wiper and
washer system or the electronic controls or communication between other modules and devices that provide
some features of the rear wiper and washer system. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose
the rear wiper and washer system or the electronic controls and communication related to rear wiper and washer
system operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
NOTE: The rear wiper and washer switches are integral to the right multi-function
switch. The right multi-function switch is hard wired to the left multi-function
switch/Steering Control Module (SCM), which communicates with the Electro
Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC)/Cab Compartment Node (CCN) over the
Local Interface Network (LIN) data bus. Before performing any of the following
tests, determine whether the other functions of the right and left multi-function
switch/SCM are operational. If only the right multi-function switch functions are
inoperative, test and repair the right multi-function switch or the jumper
harness between the right and left multi-function switches before attempting to
repair the Rear Wiper and Washer System. If both the right and left multi-
function switch/SCM functions are ineffective, diagnose and repair that problem
before attempting to repair the Rear Wiper and Washer System.

WIPER MOTOR DOES NOT 1. Ineffective motor ground 1. Test and repair open wiper motor
OPERATE IN ANY SWITCH circuit. ground circuit if required.
POSITION 2. Test and repair motor feed circuit
2. Ineffective motor feed
between TIPM and rear wiper motor if
circuits.
required.
inputs or outputs.
outputs.
5. Ineffective wiper motor. 5. Test and replace open or shorted wiper
motor if required.
WIPER MOTOR OPERATES 1. Improper wiper motor 1. Check amperage draw with wiper arm
SLOWLY amperage draw. disconnected from rear wiper motor
output shaft. Correct draw should be
about 6 amperes. If incorrect, refer to the
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appropriate Possible Cause that follows:

2. Test and repair the shorted rear wiper
motor signal and fused ignition switch
2. Amperage draw too low.
output (run - accessory) circuits if
required.
3. Amperage draw too high. 3. With wiper arm disconnected from
wiper motor output shaft check for
binding between output shaft and rubber
grommet in liftgate glass. If binding is
detected, lubricate or replace grommet if
required. If no binding is detected,
replace the wiper motor if required.
CLEANING
WIPER SYSTEM
CAUTION: Protect the rubber squeegees of the wiper blades from any petroleum-
based cleaners, solvents, or contaminants. These products can rapidly
deteriorate the rubber squeegees.
The squeegees of wiper blades exposed to the elements for a long time tend to lose their wiping effectiveness.
Periodic cleaning of the squeegees is suggested to remove any deposits of salt or road film. The wiper blades,
arms, and windshield glass should only be cleaned using a sponge or soft cloth and windshield washer fluid, a
mild detergent, or a non-abrasive cleaner. If the wiper blades continue to leave streaks, smears, hazing, or
beading on the glass after thorough cleaning of the squeegees and the glass, the entire wiper blade assembly
must be replaced.
WASHER SYSTEM
CAUTION: Never introduce petroleum-based cleaners, solvents, or contaminants into

the washer system. These products can rapidly deteriorate the rubber
seals and hoses of the washer system, as well as the rubber squeegees of
the wiper blades.
CAUTION: Never use compressed air to flush the washer system plumbing.
Compressed air pressures are too great for the washer system plumbing
components and will result in further system damage. Never use sharp
instruments to clear a plugged washer nozzle or damage to the nozzle
orifice and improper nozzle spray patterns will result.
If the washer system is contaminated with foreign material, drain the washer reservoir by removing the washer
pump/motor unit from the reservoir. Clean foreign material from the inside of the washer pump inlet filter
screen and the washer reservoir using clean washer fluid, a mild detergent, or a non-abrasive cleaner. Flush
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foreign material from the washer system plumbing by first disconnecting the washer hose from the washer
nozzle, then running the washer pump/motor to run clean washer fluid or water through the system. A plugged
or restricted washer nozzle should be carefully back-flushed using compressed air. If the washer nozzle
obstruction cannot be cleared, replace the washer nozzle.
WIPER SYSTEM
The squeegee of a wiper blade exposed to the elements for a long time tends to lose its wiping effectiveness.
Periodic cleaning of the squeegee is suggested to remove any deposits of salt or road film. The wiper blade,
arm, and liftgate glass should only be cleaned using a sponge or soft cloth and windshield washer fluid, a mild
detergent, or a non-abrasive cleaner. If the wiper blade continues to leave streaks, smears, hazing, or beading on
the glass after thorough cleaning of the squeegees and the glass, the entire wiper blade assembly must be
replaced.
CAUTION: Protect the rubber squeegee of the wiper blade from any petroleum-based
cleaners, solvents, or contaminants. These products can rapidly
deteriorate the rubber squeegee.
WASHER SYSTEM
If the washer system is contaminated with foreign material, drain the washer reservoir by removing the washer
pump/motor from the reservoir. Clean foreign material from the inside of the washer pump/motor inlet filter
screen and the washer reservoir using clean washer fluid, a mild detergent, or a non-abrasive cleaner. Flush
foreign material from the washer system plumbing by first disconnecting the washer hose from the rear washer
nozzle, then running the washer pump/motor to run clean washer fluid or water through the system. A plugged
or restricted rear washer nozzle should be carefully back-flushed using compressed air. If the washer nozzle
obstruction cannot be cleared, replace the rear washer nozzle.
CAUTION: Never introduce petroleum-based cleaners, solvents, or contaminants into

the washer system. These products can rapidly deteriorate the rubber
seals and hoses of the washer system, as well as the rubber squeegee of
the wiper blade.
CAUTION: Never use compressed air to flush the washer system plumbing.
Compressed air pressures are too great for the washer system plumbing
components and will result in further system damage. Never use sharp
instruments to clear a plugged washer nozzle or damage to the nozzle
orifice and improper nozzle spray patterns will result.
INSPECTION
WIPER SYSTEM
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Fig. 5: Inspecting Wiper Blades

The wiper blades and wiper arms should be inspected periodically, not just when wiper performance problems
are experienced. This inspection should include the following points:
1. Carefully inspect the wiper blades for any indications of worn or uneven edges (1), foreign material
deposits (2), hardening or cracking (3), deformation or fatigue (4), or splitting (5). Inspect the wiper blade
support components and the wiper arms for damage (6) or corrosion. If the wiper arms and blades are
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contaminated with any foreign material, clean them and the glass as required. See CLEANING. If a
wiper blade or arm is damaged, or if corrosion is evident, replace the affected wiper arm or blade with a
new unit. Do not attempt to repair a wiper arm or blade that is damaged or corroded.
2. Carefully lift the wiper blade off of the glass. Note the action of the wiper arm hinge. The wiper arm
should pivot freely at the hinge, but with no lateral looseness evident. If there is any binding evident in
the wiper arm hinge, or if there is evident lateral play in the wiper arm hinge, replace the wiper arm.
CAUTION: Do not allow the wiper arm to spring back against the glass without
the wiper blade in place or the glass may be damaged.
3. Once proper hinge action of the wiper arm is confirmed, check the hinge for proper spring tension.
Remove the wiper blade from the wiper arm. Either place a small postal scale between the blade end of
the wiper arm and the glass, or carefully lift the blade end of the arm away from the glass using a small
fish scale. On vehicles with unequal wiper arm lengths, be certain that measurements on both arms are
taken at a point an equal distance from their wiper arm hinge pins. Compare the scale readings between
the right and left wiper arms. Replace a wiper arm if it has comparatively lower spring tension, as
evidenced by a lower scale reading.
4. After cleaning and inspecting the wiper components and the glass, if the wiper blade still fails to clear the
glass without smearing, streaking, chattering, hazing, or beading, replace the wiper blade.
WASHER SYSTEM
The washer system components should be inspected periodically, not just when washer performance problems
1. Check for ice or other foreign material in the washer reservoir. If contaminated, clean and flush the
washer system. See CLEANING.
2. Inspect the washer plumbing for pinched, leaking, deteriorated, or incorrectly routed hoses and damaged
or disconnected hose fittings. Replace damaged or deteriorated hoses and hose fittings. Leaking washer
hoses can sometimes be repaired by cutting the hose at the leak and splicing it back together using an in-
line connector fitting. Similarly, sections of deteriorated hose can be cut out and replaced by splicing in
new sections of hose using in-line connector fittings. Whenever routing a washer hose or a wire harness
containing a washer hose, it must be routed away from hot, sharp, or moving parts. Also, sharp bends that
might pinch the washer hose must be avoided.
WIPER SYSTEM
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Fig. 6: Inspecting Wiper Blades

The rear wiper blade and wiper arm should be inspected periodically, not just when wiper performance
problems are experienced. This inspection should include the following points:
1. Carefully inspect the wiper blade for any indications of worn or uneven edges (1), foreign material
deposits (2), hardening or cracking (3), deformation or fatigue (4), or splitting (5). Inspect the wiper blade
support components and the wiper arm for damage (6). If the wiper arm and blade are contaminated with
any foreign material, clean them and the glass as required. See CLEANING. If the wiper blade or arm is
damaged, replace it with a new unit. Do not attempt to repair a wiper arm or blade that is damaged or
corroded.
2. Carefully lift the wiper blade off of the glass. Note the action of the wiper arm hinge. The wiper arm
should pivot freely at the hinge, but with no lateral looseness evident. If there is any binding evident in
the wiper arm hinge, or there is evident lateral play in the wiper arm hinge, replace the wiper arm.
CAUTION: Do not allow the wiper arm to spring back against the glass without
the wiper blade in place or the glass may be damaged.
3. Once proper hinge action of the wiper arm is confirmed, check the hinge for proper spring tension. The
spring tension of the wiper arm should be sufficient to cause the rubber squeegee to conform to the
curvature of the glass. Replace a wiper arm if it has insufficient spring tension to maintain contact
between the squeegee and the glass.
4. After cleaning and inspecting the wiper components and the glass, if the wiper blade still fails to clear the
glass without smearing, streaking, chattering, hazing, or beading, replace the wiper blade.
WASHER SYSTEM
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The washer system components should be inspected periodically, not just when washer performance problems
1. Check for ice or other foreign material in the washer reservoir. If contaminated, clean and flush the
washer system. See CLEANING.
2. Inspect the washer plumbing for pinched, leaking, deteriorated, or incorrectly routed hoses and damaged
or disconnected hose fittings. Replace damaged or deteriorated hoses and hose fittings. Leaking washer
hoses can sometimes be repaired by cutting the hose at the leak and splicing it back together using an in-
line connector fitting. Similarly, sections of deteriorated hose can be cut out and replaced by splicing in
new sections of hose using in-line connector fittings. Whenever routing a washer hose or a wire harness
containing a washer hose, it must be routed away from hot, sharp, or moving parts. Also, sharp bends that
might pinch the washer hose must be avoided.
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - WIPER AND WASHER SYSTEMS
Right Multi-Function 1 - 10
Switch Mounting Screw
Front Wiper Arm
24 18 215
Mounting Nuts
Rear Wiper Arm
12 9 106
Mounting Nut
Front Wiper Module
7.5 - 67
Mounting Screws
Front Wiper Module
8 - 72
Mounting Nut
Rear Wiper Motor
5.5 - 49
Bracket Mounting Screws
RIGHT MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
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The right (wiper) multi-function switch is located on the right side of the steering column, just below the
steering wheel. This switch is the primary control for the front and rear wiper and washer systems. The only
visible components of the switch are the control stalk (1), control knob (2) and control sleeve (3) that extend
through the steering column shrouds on the right side of the column. The remainder of the switch including its
mounting provisions and electrical connection are concealed beneath the shrouds.

The switch housing and controls (6) are constructed of molded black plastic. Each of the switch controls has
white International Control and Display Symbol graphics applied to it, which clearly identify its many
functions. A single screw (7) through a mounting tab integral to the back of the switch housing, and a slide tab
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integral to the bottom of the switch housing secure the switch to the mounting bracket integral to the
clockspring (3). A single connector receptacle containing seven terminal pins is integral to the inboard end of
the switch housing and is connected by a jumper wire harness (5) directly to the Steering Control Module
(SCM), which is internal to the housing (2) of the left multi-function switch (1).
The right (wiper) multi-function switch provides the vehicle operator with a control interface for the following
wiper and washer system functions:
 Continuous Front Wipers - The right multi-function switch control knob provides detent switching for
two continuous front wipe modes, low speed or high speed.
 Intermittent Front Wipers - The right multi-function switch control knob provides detent switching for
the intermittent front wipe mode with five minor detent delay interval positions.
 Front Wiper Mist Mode - The right multi-function switch control stalk includes momentary switching
of the front wiper motor low speed circuit to provide a mist mode features (sometimes referred to as pulse
wipe), which allows the vehicle operator to momentarily operate the front wipers for one or more
complete cycles.
 Front Washer Mode - The right multi-function switch control stalk provides momentary switching for
control of the front washer system operation.
 Intermittent Rear Wipe Mode - The right multi-function switch control sleeve provides detent
switching for a single fixed interval intermittent rear wiper mode.
 Rear Washer Mode - The right multi-function switch control sleeve provides two momentary switch
positions for control of rear washer system operation.
The right multi-function switch cannot be adjusted or repaired. If any function of the switch is ineffective, or if
the switch is damaged, the entire switch unit must be replaced. The clockspring (with the multi-function switch
mounting bracket), the left multi-function switch (with the SCM), the right multi-function switch and the
jumper wire harness are each available for separate service replacement.
OPERATION
The right (wiper) multi-function switch uses a combination of resistor multiplexing and conventional analog
switching to control the many functions and features it provides. The switch receives a clean ground from the
Steering Control Module (SCM), then provides resistor multiplexed and conventional analog return outputs to
the SCM to indicate the selected switch positions. The SCM then sends electronic switch status messages over
a Local Interface Network (LIN) data bus to the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as
the Cab Compartment Node/CCN), and the EMIC relays electronic wiper and washer switch request messages
over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus to other electronic modules in the vehicle.
If the SCM detects no inputs from the right multi-function switch, it transmits an electronic Signal Not
Available (SNA) status message over the LIN data bus. The SNA status signals the EMIC to request other
electronic modules to implement a fail-safe mode of operation for the front and rear wiper systems. The fail-
safe mode will maintain the last selected front and rear wiper system operation for the remainder of the current
ignition cycle, after which both wiper systems will default to OFF.
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The right multi-function switch as well as the hard wired inputs and outputs of the switch may be diagnosed
using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. However, the
most reliable, efficient and accurate means to diagnose this component requires the use of a diagnostic scan
Following are descriptions of how the right multi-function switch is operated to control the many front and rear
wiper and washer system functions and features it provides:
 Front Wiper Control - The control knob on the end of the right multi-function switch control stalk is
rotated to one of the two continuous wiper detents, to one of five intermittent wiper detents, or to the OFF
position to select the front wiper mode. The SCM reads the input from the right multi-function switch and
sends electronic wiper switch status messages over the LIN data bus to the EMIC, which relays an
electronic wiper switch request message over the CAN data bus to other electronic modules in the
vehicle.
 Front Wiper Mist Mode - The front wiper mist mode is requested when the right multi-function switch
control stalk is depressed downward towards the floor to a momentary MIST position. The front wiper
motor will continue to operate, one complete cycle at a time, for as long as the control stalk is held in this
position. The SCM reads the resistor multiplexed input from the right multi-function switch and sends an
electronic wiper switch status message over the LIN data bus to the EMIC, which relays an electronic
wiper switch request message over the CAN data bus to other electronic modules in the vehicle.
 Front Washer Control - The right multi-function switch control stalk is pulled rearward towards the
steering wheel to a momentary WASH position to activate the washer pump/motor in the front washer
mode. The washer pump/motor will continue to operate for as long as the control stalk is held in this
position. The SCM reads the resistor multiplexed input from the right multi-function switch and sends an
electronic washer switch status message over the LIN data bus to the EMIC, which relays an electronic
washer switch request message over the CAN data bus to other electronic modules in the vehicle.
 Rear Wiper Control - The rear wiper mode is selected when the right multi-function switch control
sleeve is rotated to the fixed interval intermittent rear wipe detent position, or the OFF detent position.
The SCM reads the input from the right multi-function switch and sends an electronic wiper switch status
message over the LIN data bus to the EMIC, which relays an electronic wiper switch request message
over the CAN data bus to other electronic modules in the vehicle.
 Rear Washer Control - The right multi-function switch control sleeve is rotated to one of two
momentary WASH positions, either fully forward or fully rearward, to activate the washer pump/motor in
the rear washer mode. The washer pump/motor will continue to operate in the rear washer mode until the
control sleeve is released. The SCM reads the input from the right multi-function switch and sends an
electronic washer switch status message over the LIN data bus to the EMIC, which relays an electronic
washer switch request message over the CAN data bus to other electronic modules in the vehicle.
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Fig. 9: Right Multi-Function Switch Connector

The right multi-function switch as well as the hard wired inputs and outputs of the switch may be diagnosed
using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information.
However, conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the Steering Control
Module (SCM) or the electronic controls or communication between other modules and devices that provide
some features of the front and rear wiper and washer systems. The most reliable, efficient and accurate means to
diagnose the SCM or the electronic controls and communication related to SCM operation requires the use of a
1. Remove the right multi-function switch from the integral mounting bracket on the right side of the
clockspring. See REMOVAL.
2. Using an ohmmeter, test the resistance between the terminals of the switch as shown in the three Function
Tests tables. For all functions except those of the control stalk the values should be either less than 100
ohms (switch CLOSED) or greater than 1 megohm (switch OPEN).
CONTROL STALK FUNCTION TESTS

PINS
FUNCTION RESISTANCE
1 7
Front Wash X X 10000 Ohms
Front Mist X X 5490 Ohms
CONTROL KNOB FUNCTION TESTS

BETWEEN PIN 7 (GROUND) AND PINS
FUNCTION
4 5 6
Off CLOSED CLOSED OPEN
Front Delay
CLOSED CLOSED CLOSED
1
Front Delay CLOSED OPEN CLOSED
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2
Front Delay
OPEN OPEN CLOSED
3
Front Delay
OPEN CLOSED CLOSED
4
Front Delay
OPEN CLOSED OPEN
5
Front Wiper
OPEN OPEN OPEN
Low
Front Wiper
CLOSED OPEN OPEN
High
CONTROL SLEEVE FUNCTION TESTS

BETWEEN PIN 7
FUNCTION (GROUND) AND PINS
2 3
Off CLOSED OPEN
Rear Wipe CLOSED CLOSED
Rear Wash OPEN CLOSED
3. If the switch fails any of the tests, replace the ineffective right multi-function switch as required. If the
switch tests okay, but the switch input to the Steering Control Module (SCM) remains incorrect, be
certain to check for a short or open in the jumper harness between the right multi-function switch and the
SCM.
REMOVAL
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Fig. 10: Right Multi-Function Switch


2. Remove both the upper and lower shrouds from the steering column. Refer to REMOVAL .
3. Remove the screw (2) that secures the right multi-function switch (1) to the mounting bracket integral to
the right side of the clockspring (3) on the steering column.
4. Slide the switch away from the clockspring far enough to disengage the slide tabs on the switch housing
from the channel formations in the mounting bracket.
Fig. 11: Identifying Jumper Wire Harness Connector, Right Multi-Function Switch & Clockspring
5. Disconnect the jumper wire harness connector (1) from the connector receptacle on the inboard end of the
right multi-function switch (2).
6. Remove the switch from the clockspring (3).
INSTALLATION

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Fig. 12: Identifying Jumper Wire Harness Connector, Right Multi-Function Switch & Clockspring
1. Position the right multi-function switch (2) close enough to the mounting bracket (3) integral to the right
side of the clockspring to reconnect the jumper wire harness connector (1) to the connector receptacle on
the inboard side of the switch housing.
2. Align the slide tabs on the switch housing with the channel formations integral to the clockspring
mounting bracket, then slide the switch into the bracket until it is firmly seated.
Fig. 13: Right Multi-Function Switch

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3. Install and tighten the screw (2) that secures the mounting tab on the back of the right multi-function
switch (1) to the mounting bracket on the clockspring (3). Tighten the screw to 1 N.m (10 in. lbs.).
WASHER HOSES/TUBES
DESCRIPTION
FRONT WASHER PLUMBING
Fig. 14: Left-Hand Drive

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Fig. 15: Right-Hand Drive

The front washer plumbing consists of a small diameter rubber hose (8) that is routed from the barbed outlet
nipple of the reversible electric washer pump/motor unit on the washer reservoir on the left side of the engine
compartment side by side with the rear washer hose and the front end module wiring across the cooling module
at the front to the right side of the engine compartment. The front washer hose is then routed along with the
front end module wiring across the top of the right front inner wheel house to the cowl plenum assembly where
they pass through a rubber grommet in the front of the plenum panel into the plenum area.
Within the plenum area, the front washer hose is connected by an in-line plastic connector to the hood washer
hose (7). The hood hose is routed through a rubber grommet (5) on left-hand drive vehicles, or through an S-
clip (6) on right-hand drive vehicles out of the plenum area toward the upper hinge bracket on the left side of
the hood panel (1). Molded plastic routing clips secure the hoses to the upper hinge bracket and the left side of
the inner hood reinforcement. The washer nozzle hose is then secured within the rear channel bracket for the
hood silencer on the underside of the inner hood reinforcement cowl between the two front washer nozzles (2).
A molded rubber tee fitting (3) connects the hood washer hose to the right washer nozzle, while a molded
rubber elbow (4) connects the hose to the left washer nozzle.
Washer hose is available for service only as roll stock, which must then be cut to length. The molded plastic or
rubber washer hose fittings cannot be repaired. If these fittings are ineffective or damaged, they must be
replaced.
REAR WASHER PLUMBING
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Fig. 16: Identifying Headliner Hose, Rubber Grommet & Small Diameter Rubber Hose
The rear washer plumbing consists of small diameter rubber hose (3) that is routed from the barbed outlet nipple
of the reversible electric washer pump/motor unit on the washer reservoir on the left side of the engine
compartment side by side with the front washer hose and the front end module wiring across the cooling module
at the front to the right side of the engine compartment. The rear washer hose is then routed along with the front
end module wiring across the top of the right front inner wheel house to the dash panel, where an in-line plastic
fitting connects the rear washer hose to the headliner hose (1), which passes into the passenger compartment
through a rubber grommet (2).
Fig. 17: Identifying Headliner & Headliner Hose

The headliner hose is routed below the instrument panel in the passenger compartment near the right cowl side
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inner panel and up the right A-pillar to the headliner (2). The headliner hose is glued to the headliner substrate
and routed along the right roof side rail to the rear of the vehicle. At the rear of the vehicle, the headliner hose
passes through rubber grommets and a hole at the rear portion of the roof rear inner header panel and the upper
liftgate inner panel where it is connected to the rear washer nozzle in the Center High Mounted Stop Lamp
(CHMSL).
The headliner washer hose is integral to the headliner unit and, if ineffective or damaged, the headliner unit
must be replaced. However, the headliner hose can be cut and spliced with a plastic in-line connector fitting to
facilitate headliner removal without the need to remove the instrument panel. Refer to REMOVAL .
Washer hose is available for service only as roll stock, which must then be cut to length. The molded plastic
washer hose fittings cannot be repaired. If these fittings are ineffective or damaged, they must be replaced.
OPERATION
FRONT WASHER PLUMBING
Washer fluid in the washer reservoir is pressurized and fed by the washer pump/motor through the front washer
system plumbing and fittings to the two front washer nozzles. Whenever routing the washer hose or a wire
harness containing a washer hose, it must be routed away from hot, sharp, or moving parts; and, sharp bends
that might pinch the hose must be avoided.
REAR WASHER PLUMBING
Washer fluid in the washer reservoir is pressurized and fed by the washer pump/motor through the rear washer
system plumbing and fittings to the rear washer nozzle located in the Center High Mounted Stop Lamp
(CHMSL) on the upper outer liftgate panel above the liftgate glass opening. Whenever routing the washer hose
or a wire harness containing a washer hose, it must be routed away from hot, sharp, or moving parts; and, sharp
bends that might pinch the hose must be avoided.
WASHER NOZZLE
DESCRIPTION
FRONT WASHER NOZZLE
Microsoft
Fig. 18: Front Washer Nozzle

The fluidic front washer nozzles (2) are constructed of molded plastic and include an integral check valve. Each
nozzle has two integral latches (4) that secure them in dedicated holes in the hood panel near the base of the
windshield. The domed upper surface of the washer nozzle is visible on the outside of the hood panel, and the
dual nozzle orifices (1) are oriented towards the windshield glass.
An integral diaphragm type check valve is contained within the body of each nozzle. A rubber seal (3) seals the
nozzle to the outer surface of the hood panel. The washer plumbing fitting (5) for the washer nozzle extends
below the hood panel and is accessible from the engine compartment.
The front washer nozzles cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if ineffective or damaged, they must be replaced.
REAR WASHER NOZZLE
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Fig. 19: Rear Washer Nozzle

The fluidic rear washer nozzle (1) is constructed of molded plastic. The rear washer nozzle is secured by two
integral latch features (3) within a mounting hole integral to the Center High-Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) on
the outer liftgate panel above the liftgate glass opening. The domed outer surface of the washer nozzle is visible
on the exterior surface of the CHMSL lens, and the nozzle orifice (5) is oriented downward towards the liftgate
glass.
A rubber gasket (2) seals the nozzle to the outer surface of the CHMSL lens. The washer plumbing fitting (4)
for the washer nozzle extends behind the lamp and is concealed between the liftgate inner and outer panels.
The rear washer nozzle cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if ineffective or damaged, it must be replaced.
OPERATION
REAR WASHER NOZZLE
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The rear washer nozzle is designed to dispense washer fluid into the wiper pattern area on the outside of the
liftgate glass. Pressurized washer fluid is fed to the nozzle from the washer reservoir by the washer pump/motor
through a single hose, which is attached to a barbed nipple on the back of the rear washer nozzle. A fluidic
matrix within the washer nozzle causes the pressurized washer fluid to be emitted from the nozzle orifice as an
oscillating stream to more effectively cover a larger area of the glass to be cleaned.
FRONT WASHER NOZZLE
The two front washer nozzles are designed to dispense washer fluid into the wiper pattern area on the outside of
the windshield glass. Pressurized washer fluid is fed to each nozzle from the washer reservoir by the washer
pump/motor unit through a single hose, which is attached to a barbed nipple on each washer nozzle below the
inner hood panel. A fluidic matrix within the washer nozzle causes the pressurized washer fluid to be emitted
from the nozzle orifice as an oscillating stream to more effectively cover a larger area of the glass to be cleaned.
The integral check valve in each nozzle prevents washer fluid from draining out of the washer supply hoses
back to the washer reservoir. This drain-back would result in a lengthy delay after the washer switch is actuated
until washer fluid was dispensed through the nozzles, because the washer pump would have to refill the washer
plumbing from the reservoir to the nozzles. Such a drain-back condition could also result in water, dirt, or other
outside contaminants being siphoned into the washer system through the washer nozzle orifice. This water
could subsequently freeze and plug the nozzle, while other contaminants could interfere with proper nozzle
operation and cause improper nozzle spray patterns. In addition, the check valve prevents washer fluid from
siphoning through the washer nozzles after the washer pump stops operating.
When the washer pump pressurizes and pumps washer fluid from the reservoir through the washer plumbing,
the fluid pressure unseats a diaphragm from over a sump well within the nozzle by overriding the spring
pressure applied to it by a piston. With the diaphragm unseated, washer fluid is allowed to flow toward the
nozzle orifice. When the washer pump stops operating, the spring pressure on the piston seats the diaphragm
over the sump well in the nozzle and fluid flow in either direction within the washer plumbing is prevented.
REMOVAL
REAR WASHER NOZZLE
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Fig. 20: Identifying Center High-Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL), Integral Latch Features & Barbed
Nipple

2. Remove the Center High-Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) (1) from the liftgate outer panel. Refer to
REMOVAL .
3. Disconnect the rear washer supply hose from the barbed nipple (3) on the back of the rear washer nozzle.
4. From the back of the CHMSL housing, depress the two integral latch features (2) of the nozzle, and push
the nozzle out through the face of the lamp lens.
FRONT WASHER NOZZLE
Fig. 21: Identifying Underside Of Hood & Front Washer Nozzle

1. From the underside of the hood (1), remove the push-in retainers that secure the hood silencer pad to the
inner hood reinforcement as necessary to access the front washer nozzle (2) hose connections.
2. Disconnect the hose from the barbed nipple of the front washer nozzle.
3. From the underside of the hood, release the integral latches of the front washer nozzle and push the
nozzle out through the mounting hole toward the top side of the hood.
4. Remove the nozzle from the top of the hood panel.
INSTALLATION
REAR WASHER NOZZLE
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Fig. 22: Identifying Center High-Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL), Integral Latch Features & Barbed
Nipple
1. Be certain that the rubber gasket is installed around the base of the rear washer nozzle and that it is in
good condition.
2. Insert the nozzle nipple (3) through the mounting hole from the face of the Center High-Mounted Stop
Lamp (CHMSL) lens (1) with the nozzle orifice oriented downward.
3. Using hand pressure, press the nozzle firmly and evenly into the mounting hole until both integral latch
features (2) are fully engaged on the back of the CHMSL housing.
4. Reconnect the rear washer supply hose to the barbed nipple of the nozzle.
5. Reinstall the CHMSL onto the liftgate outer panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
FRONT WASHER NOZZLE
Fig. 23: Identifying Underside Of Hood & Front Washer Nozzle

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1. Position the front washer nozzle (2) to the mounting hole on the outside of the hood panel (1).
2. Align the anti-rotation tab of the nozzle with the anti-rotation notch in the mounting hole.
3. Using hand pressure, push firmly and evenly on the top of the nozzle until the integral latches lock into
place on the underside of the hood.
4. From the underside of the hood, reconnect the washer hose to the barbed nipple of the nozzle.
5. Reinstall the push-in retainers that secure the hood silencer pad to the inner hood reinforcement.
WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
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Fig. 24: Washer Pump/Motor

The washer pump/motor unit is located on the top of a sump area on the left outboard side of the washer
reservoir, which is integral to the coolant reserve bottle on the left side of the cooling module in the engine
compartment. A small permanently lubricated and sealed reversible electric motor (3) is coupled to the rotor-
type washer pump (4). The use of an integral valve body (7) allows the washer pump/motor unit to provide
washer fluid to either the front or the rear washer systems, depending upon the direction of the motor/pump
impeller rotation.
An inlet nipple (6) on the pump housing passes through a rubber grommet seal/filter screen installed in a
dedicated mounting hole of the washer reservoir sump. The filter screen prevents most debris from entering the
pump housing. When the pump is installed in the reservoir the front barbed outlet nipple (5) on the pump valve
body housing connects the unit to the front washer hose, and the rear barbed outlet nipple (8) connects the unit
to the rear washer hose. The letters F and R molded into the valve body housing adjacent to each nipple provide
further clarification of the nipple assignments.
The washer pump/motor unit is retained on the reservoir by the interference fit between the pump inlet nipple
and the grommet seal, which is a light press fit. The top of the washer pump is also secured to the washer
reservoir by the use of a snap fit between the motor housing and a receptacle molded into the reservoir that
allows for mounting of the washer pump without the use of fasteners. An integral connector receptacle (1) on
the top of the motor housing connects the unit to the vehicle electrical system through a dedicated take out and
connector of the headlamp and dash wire harness.
The washer pump/motor unit cannot be repaired. If ineffective or damaged, the entire washer pump/motor unit
must be replaced.
OPERATION
WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
Fig. 25: Identifying Pump/Motor Operation

The washer pump/motor unit features a reversible electric motor. The direction of the motor is controlled by
hard wired outputs from the momentary front and rear washer switch circuitry contained within the right (wiper)
control stalk of the multi-function switch. When battery current and ground are applied to the two pump motor
terminals, the motor rotates in one direction. When the polarity of these connections is reversed, the motor
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rotates in the opposite direction.
When the pump motor is energized, the rotor-type pump pressurizes the washer fluid and forces it through one
of the two pump outlet nipples, and into the front or rear washer plumbing. Washer fluid is drawn through the
pump inlet nipple from the washer reservoir to the inlet port of the washer pump housing. An integral valve
body is located in a housing on the outlet port side (2) of the pump housing. A diaphragm (4) in this valve body
controls which washer system plumbing receives the washer fluid being pressurized by the pump. When the
pump is not operating the diaphragm is biased to close all washer fluid flow in the rear washer system and, in
this way it also performs the function of the rear washer system check valve.
When the pump impeller (1) rotates in the counterclockwise direction (viewed from the bottom), the biased
diaphragm is sealing off the rear washer system outlet and nipple so the pressurized washer fluid is pushed out
through the pump front outlet port and the front washer outlet nipple (5). When the pump impeller rotates in the
clockwise direction (viewed from the bottom), pressurized washer fluid is pushed out through the pump rear
outlet port and moves the diaphragm to open the rear washer outlet nipple and seal off the front washer outlet
nipple, then the pressurized washer fluid is pushed out through the rear washer outlet nipple (3).
The washer pump/motor unit and the hard wired circuits between the motor and the multi-function switch may
be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information.
REMOVAL
WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
NOTE: The washer pump/motor can be removed from the washer reservoir without
removing the reservoir from the vehicle.
Fig. 26: Identifying Washer Reservoir, Motor Housing, Front End Module Wire Harness Connector &
Washer Hoses
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2. Siphon the washer fluid from the washer reservoir (1) on the left side of the cooling module in the engine
compartment into a clean container for reuse.
3. Disconnect the front end module wire harness connector (3) from the washer pump/motor unit connector
receptacle on the top of the motor housing (2).
4. Disconnect the two washer hoses (4 and 5) from the two washer pump/motor unit outlet nipples.
5. Firmly grasp the top of the washer pump/motor housing and pull it lightly outward from the washer
reservoir far enough to disengage the top of the motor from the receptacle in the reservoir. Care must be
taken not to damage the reservoir.
6. Pull the washer pump/motor unit straight up and out of the washer reservoir far enough to disengage the
inlet nipple from the rubber grommet seal/filter screen in the reservoir.
7. Remove the rubber grommet seal/filter screen for the washer pump from the pump mounting hole in the
washer reservoir and discard.
INSTALLATION
WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
Fig. 27: Identifying Washer Reservoir, Motor Housing, Front End Module Wire Harness Connector &
Washer Hoses
1. Install a new rubber grommet seal/filter screen unit into the washer pump mounting hole in the washer
reservoir (1). Always use a new rubber grommet seal/filter screen on the reservoir.
2. Position the inlet nipple of the washer pump (2) to the rubber grommet seal/filter screen in the washer
reservoir.
3. Using hand pressure, press firmly and evenly downward on the washer pump/motor unit until the inlet
nipple is fully seated in the rubber grommet seal/filter screen in the pump mounting hole of the reservoir.
4. Align the top of the washer pump/motor housing with the receptacle in the washer reservoir.
5. Using hand pressure, press firmly and evenly on the top of washer pump/motor unit until the motor
housing snaps into the reservoir receptacle.
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6. Reconnect the front (5) and rear (4) washer hoses to the two barbed pump outlet nipples.
7. Reconnect the front end module wire harness connector (3) for the washer pump/motor unit to the
connector receptacle on the top of the motor housing.
9. Refill the washer reservoir with the washer fluid siphoned from the reservoir during the removal
procedure.
WASHER RESERVOIR
DESCRIPTION
WASHER RESERVOIR
The molded translucent plastic washer fluid reservoir is integral to the engine coolant overflow bottle. This unit
sits astride the top of the fan shroud at the front of the engine compartment, with the washer reservoir on the left
side of the shroud and the coolant overflow bottle on the right. A single washer fluid reservoir is used for both
the front and rear washer systems.
A bright yellow plastic filler cap with a rubber seal and an International Control and Display Symbol icon for
Windshield Washer and the text WASHER FLUID ONLY molded into it snaps over the open end of the
washer reservoir filler neck. The cap hinges on and is secured to a molded-in hook formation on the top of the
reservoir just behind the filler neck when it is removed for inspecting or adjusting the fluid level in the
reservoir.
There is a dedicated hole on the top of a sump area and an integral molded receptacle on the lower left facing
side of the reservoir provided for the mounting of the washer/pump motor unit. These features allow for
mounting of the washer pump/motor unit without the use of fasteners.
The washer reservoir is serviced only as a unit with the engine coolant reserve bottle. The washer reservoir
cannot be repaired and, if ineffective or damaged, the coolant reserve bottle/washer reservoir unit must be
replaced. The grommet seal/filter screen for the washer pump/motor unit and the filler cap are each available for
individual service replacement.
OPERATION
WASHER RESERVOIR
The washer fluid reservoir provides a secure, on-vehicle storage location for a large reserve of washer fluid for
operation of the front and rear washer systems. The washer reservoir filler neck provides a clearly marked and
readily accessible point from which to add washer fluid to the reservoir. The washer/pump motor unit is located
in a sump area near the bottom of the reservoir to be certain that washer fluid will be available to the pump as
the fluid level in the reservoir becomes depleted. The washer pump/motor unit is mounted above the lowest
position in the sump.
WIPER ARM
DESCRIPTION
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REAR WIPER ARM
Fig. 28: Rear Wiper Arm

The rear wiper arm is the rigid member located between the rear wiper motor output shaft that protrudes
through the liftgate outer panel below the center of the liftgate glass opening and the wiper blade on the outside
of the glass. The wiper arm is constructed of molded black plastic. A hinged pivot end is also molded plastic.
A molded black plastic nut cover (1) with two pivot pins on one end and a snap feature on the other fits over the
wiper arm retaining nut to conceal the nut and mounting hole following wiper arm installation. The wiper arm
hinge and tension spring are concealed on the underside of the wide end of the arm (2), while integral latch
features (3) concealed on the underside of the narrow end of the wiper arm accept the pivot pin of the matching
molded plastic wiper blade unit.
The rear wiper arm cannot be adjusted or repaired. If damaged or ineffective, the entire wiper arm unit must be
replaced.
FRONT WIPER ARM
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Fig. 29: Front Wiper Arm

The front wiper arms are the rigid members located between the wiper pivots that protrude from the cowl
plenum cover/grille panel near the base of the windshield and the wiper blades on the windshield glass. These
wiper arms feature an over-center hinge that allows easy access to the windshield glass for cleaning. The wiper
arm has a die cast metal pivot end (4) with a large tapered mounting hole (5) at one end. A molded black plastic
cap fits over the wiper arm retaining nut to conceal the nut and this mounting hole following wiper arm
installation.
The wide end of a tapered, stamped steel channel (3) hinges on and is secured with a hinge pin (6) to the blade
end of the wiper arm pivot end. One end of a long, rigid, stamped steel strap (2) with a small hole near its pivot
end is riveted and crimped within the narrow end of the stamped steel channel. The tip of the wiper blade end of
this strap is bent back under itself to form a small hook (1). Concealed within the stamped steel channel, one
end of a long tension spring is engaged with a wire hook on the underside of the die cast pivot end, while the
other end of the spring is hooked through the small hole in the steel strap. The entire wiper arm has a satin black
finish applied to all of its visible surfaces.
A wiper arm cannot be adjusted or repaired. If damaged or ineffective, the entire wiper arm unit must be
replaced.
OPERATION
REAR WIPER ARM
The rear wiper arm is designed to mechanically transmit the motion from the rear wiper motor output shaft to
the rear wiper blade. The wiper arm must be properly indexed to the motor output shaft in order to maintain the
proper wiper blade travel on the glass. The tapered hole in the wiper arm pivot end interlocks with the serrations
on the outer circumference of the tapered motor output shaft, allowing positive engagement and finite
adjustment of this connection.
A hex nut secures the wiper arm pivot end to the threads on the rear wiper motor output shaft and the plastic
cover snaps over this connection for a neat appearance. The spring-loaded wiper arm hinge controls the down-
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force applied through the tip of the wiper arm to the wiper blade on the glass. The latch formation on the tip of
the wiper arm provides a cradle for securing and latching the wiper blade pivot pin to the wiper arm.
FRONT WIPER ARM
The front wiper arms are designed to mechanically transmit the motion from the wiper pivots to the wiper
blades. The wiper arm must be properly indexed to the wiper pivot in order to maintain the proper wiper blade
travel on the glass. The tapered mounting hole in the wiper arm pivot end interlocks with the serrations on the
tapered outer circumference of the wiper pivot shaft, allowing positive engagement and finite adjustment of this
connection.
The mounting nuts lock the wiper arms to the threaded studs of the wiper pivot shafts. The spring-loaded wiper
arm hinge controls the down-force applied through the tip of the wiper arm to the wiper blade on the glass. The
hook formation on the tip of the wiper arm provides a cradle for securing and latching the wiper blade pivot
block to the wiper arm.
REMOVAL
FRONT WIPER ARM
Fig. 30: Identifying Front Wiper Arms, Plastic Nut Cap, Nut & Wiper Alignment Lines
1. Lift the front wiper arm (1) to its over-center position to hold the wiper blade off of the glass and relieve
the spring tension on the wiper arm to pivot shaft connection.
2. Carefully pry the plastic nut cap (2) off of the pivot end of the wiper arm.
3. Remove the nut (3) that secures the wiper arm to the wiper pivot shaft (4).
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Fig. 31: Disengaging Wiper Arm from Pivot Shaft

4. If necessary, use a suitable battery terminal puller (3) to disengage the wiper arm (1) from the pivot shaft
(2).
5. Remove the front wiper arm pivot end from the pivot shaft.
REAR WIPER ARM
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Fig. 32: Rear Wiper Arm Components

1. Unsnap and swing the molded plastic nut cover off of the pivot end of the wiper arm (4).
2. Remove the nut (5) that secures the wiper arm to the rear wiper motor output shaft (1).
CAUTION: The use of a battery terminal puller when removing the rear wiper
arm is NOT recommended as this may damage the rear wiper arm.
3. Use a slight rocking action to disengage the rear wiper arm pivot end from the output shaft and remove
the wiper arm.
INSTALLATION
FRONT WIPER ARM
NOTE: Be certain that the wiper motor is in the park position before attempting to
install the front wiper arms. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and
move the right (wiper) multi-function switch control knob to its OFF position. If
the wiper pivots move, wait until they stop moving, then turn the ignition switch
back to the OFF position. The front wiper motor is now in its park position.
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Fig. 33: Identifying Front Wiper Arms, Plastic Nut Cap, Nut & Wiper Alignment Lines
1. The front wiper arms (1) must be indexed to the pivot shafts with the front wiper motor in the park
position to be properly installed. Position the wiper arm pivot ends onto the wiper pivot shafts (4) so that
the tip of the wiper blade is aligned with the wiper alignment lines (5) located near the lower margin of
the windshield glass.
2. Once the wiper blade is aligned, lift the wiper arm away from the windshield slightly to relieve the spring
tension on the pivot end and push the pivot end of the wiper arm down firmly and evenly over the pivot
shaft.
3. Install and tighten the nut (3) that secures the wiper arm to the pivot shaft. Tighten the nut to 24 N.m (18
ft. lbs.).
4. Wet the windshield glass, then operate the front wipers. Turn the front wipers OFF, then check for the
correct wiper arm position and readjust as required.
5. Reinstall the plastic nut cap (2) onto the wiper arm pivot nut.
REAR WIPER ARM
NOTE: Be certain that the rear wiper motor is in the park position before attempting to
install the rear wiper arm. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and move
the rear wiper switch to its OFF position. If the wiper motor output shaft moves,
wait until it stops moving, then turn the ignition switch back to the OFF
position. The wiper motor is now in its park position.
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1. The rear wiper arm (4) must be indexed to the rear wiper motor output shaft with the motor in the park
position to be properly installed. Position the wiper arm pivot end onto the output shaft so that the tip of
the wiper blade is aligned with the upper edge of the lower liftgate glass blackout area (3).
2. With the rear wiper arm properly indexed, push the tapered mounting hole on the pivot end of the wiper
arm down over the output shaft.
3. Install and tighten the nut (5) that secures the rear wiper arm to the output shaft. Tighten the nut to 12
N.m (9 ft. lbs.).
4. Fold and snap the molded plastic nut cover over the nut on the pivot end of the rear wiper arm.
5. Wet the lift glass and operate the rear wiper. Turn the rear wiper switch to the OFF position, then check
for correct wiper arm position and readjust as required.
WIPER BLADE
DESCRIPTION
FRONT WIPER BLADE
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Fig. 35: Front Wiper Blade

Each front wiper blade is secured by an integral latching pivot block (2) to the hook formation on the tip of each
wiper arm, and rests on the glass near the base of the windshield when the wipers are not in operation. The
wiper blade consists of the following components:
 Superstructure (1) - The superstructure includes several stamped steel bridges and links with claw
formations (4) that grip the wiper blade element. Also included in this unit is the latching, molded plastic
pivot block that secures the superstructure to the wiper arm. On vehicles manufactured for export
markets, the driver side front wiper blade has an additional molded black plastic airfoil secured to the
superstructure, which is oriented toward the base of the windshield when the front wipers are in their
parked position. All of the metal components of the wiper blade have a satin black finish applied.
 Element (3) - The wiper element or squeegee is the resilient rubber member of the wiper blade that
contacts the glass.
 Flexor - The flexor is a rigid metal component running along the length of each side of the wiper element
where it is gripped by the claws of the superstructure.
All vehicles have interchangeable windshield wiper blades with non-replaceable rubber elements (squeegees),
except those export vehicles with an airfoil on the wiper blade superstructure. The blades are 47.50 centimeter
(18.70 inch) long. The wiper blades cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if ineffective, worn, or damaged the
entire wiper blade unit must be replaced.
REAR WIPER BLADE
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Fig. 36: Rear Wiper Blade

The rear wiper blade is secured by an integral pivot pin (2) to the latch formations on the underside of the tip of
the rear wiper arm, and rests near the top of the lift glass when the rear wiper system is not in operation. The
rear wiper blade consists of the following components:
 Superstructure (1) - The superstructure includes a molded black plastic bridge and plastic links with
claw formations that grip the wiper blade element. Also included in this unit is the molded plastic pivot
pin that secures the superstructure to the wiper arm.
 Element (4) - The wiper element or squeegee is the resilient rubber member of the wiper blade that
contacts the glass.
 Flexor (3) - The flexor is a rigid metal component running along the length of each side of the wiper
element where it is gripped by the claws of the superstructure.
The rear wiper blade is 26.00 centimeters (10.24 inches) long with a replaceable element (squeegee). The wiper
blade superstructure cannot be adjusted or repaired. If ineffective, worn or damaged the entire wiper blade unit
must be replaced.
OPERATION
FRONT WIPER BLADE
The wiper blades are moved back and forth across the glass by the wiper arms when the wipers are being
operated. The wiper blade superstructure is the flexible frame that grips the wiper blade element and evenly
distributes the force of the spring-loaded wiper arm along the length of the element. The combination of the
wiper arm force and the flexibility of the superstructure makes the element conform to and maintain proper
contact with the glass, even as the blade is moved over the varied curvature that may be encountered across the
glass surface.
The wiper element flexor provides the claws of the blade superstructure with a rigid, yet flexible component on
the element which can be gripped. The rubber element is designed to be stiff enough to maintain an even
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cleaning edge as it is drawn across the glass, yet resilient enough to conform to the glass surface and flip from
one cleaning edge to the other each time the wiper blade changes directions. The airfoil used on the driver side
wiper blade of vehicles manufactured for certain markets is designed to reduce the lifting effect caused by air
moving over the vehicle at higher highway speeds.
REAR WIPER BLADE
The rear wiper blade is moved back and forth across the glass by the wiper arm when the rear wiper system is in
operation. The wiper blade superstructure is the flexible frame that grips the wiper blade element and evenly
distributes the force of the spring-loaded wiper arm along the length of the element. The combination of the
wiper arm force and the flexibility of the superstructure makes the element conform to and maintain proper
contact with the glass, even as the blade is moved over the varied curvature found across the glass surface.
The wiper element flexor provides the claws of the blade superstructure with a rigid, yet flexible component on
the element which can be gripped. The rubber element is designed to be stiff enough to maintain an even
cleaning edge as it is drawn across the glass, but resilient enough to conform to the glass surface and flip from
one cleaning edge to the other each time the wiper blade changes directions.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
REAR WIPER ELEMENT REPLACEMENT
Fig. 37: Rear Wiper Element Replacement

1. Remove the rear wiper blade (3) from the wiper arm. See REMOVAL.
2. Grasp one of the wiper blade links (4) firmly with one hand, and grasp the wiper element (1) and flexors
(2) midway between the two links with the other hand.
3. Pull the element and flexor away from the blade far enough to disengage them from the end pair of claws
(5) of one link.
4. Slide the element and flexor toward the loose end to disengage them from the remaining sets of claws.
5. Reverse this process to install a new element and flexors into the wiper blade.
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6. Reinstall the wiper blade onto the wiper arm. See INSTALLATION.
REMOVAL
REAR WIPER BLADE
CAUTION: Do not allow the wiper arm to spring back against the glass without the
wiper blade in place or the glass may be damaged.

1. Remove the rear wiper arm (2), wiper blade and element (1) from the vehicle as a unit. See REMOVAL.
2. To remove the blade from the arm, swing the end of the wiper blade nearest to the wiper motor away
from the wiper arm to its travel limit.
3. Now press the end of the wiper blade nearest to the wiper motor away from the wiper arm against its stop
far enough to unsnap the wiper blade pivot pin from the latch features on the underside of the wiper arm.
FRONT WIPER BLADE
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NOTE: The notched end of the wiper element flexor should always be oriented towards
the end of the wiper blade that is nearest to the wiper pivot.
1. Lift the wiper arm (2) to raise the wiper blade and element (6) off of the glass, until the wiper arm hinge
is in its over-center position.
2. To remove the blade from the arm, depress the latch release tab (4) on the pivot block (3) under the tip of
the arm and slide the blade away from the tip towards the pivot end of the arm far enough to disengage
the pivot block from the hook formation (5) on the end of the arm.
3. Extract the hook formation on the tip of the wiper arm through the opening in the wiper blade
superstructure (1) just ahead of the pivot block.
4. Gently lower the tip of the wiper arm onto the glass.
INSTALLATION
REAR WIPER BLADE
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1. Position the wiper blade (1) under the tip of the wiper arm (2), aligning the pivot pin near the center of the
blade superstructure with the latch features on the underside of the tip of the arm.
2. Squeeze the arm and blade together until the blade pivot pin snaps into the latch features of the arm.
3. Reinstall the rear wiper arm, wiper blade and element onto the vehicle as a unit. See INSTALLATION.
FRONT WIPER BLADE

NOTE: The notched end of the wiper element flexor should always be oriented towards
the end of the wiper blade that is nearest to the wiper pivot.
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1. Lift the wiper arm (2) off of the windshield glass, until the wiper arm hinge is in its over-center position.
2. Position the wiper blade near the hook formation (5) on the tip of the arm with the notched end of the
wiper element flexor oriented towards the end of the wiper arm that is nearest to the wiper pivot.
3. Insert the hook formation on the tip of the arm through the opening in the blade superstructure (1) ahead
of the pivot block (3) far enough to engage the pivot block into the hook.
4. Slide the pivot block up into the hook formation on the tip of the wiper arm until the latch release tab (4)
snaps into its locked position. Latch engagement will be accompanied by an audible click.
5. Gently lower the wiper blade and element (6) onto the glass.
WIPER MODULE
DESCRIPTION
FRONT WIPER MODULE
Fig. 42: Front Wiper Module Components

The front wiper module is secured within the cowl plenum panel beneath the cowl plenum cover/grille panel.
The ends of the wiper pivot shafts (3) protrude through dedicated openings in the cowl plenum cover/grille
panel to drive the wiper arms and blades and are the only visible components of the front wiper module.
The front wiper module consists of the following major components:
 Bracket - The front wiper module bracket consists of a long tubular steel main member that has a die cast
pivot bracket formation near each end where the two wiper pivots are secured. A die cast mounting
bracket for the wiper motor (4) is secured with two screws near the center of the main member. Each of
the two wiper pivot brackets secures the module to the cowl plenum with a screw through a rubber
insulator (1), and a third rubber insulator on the motor bracket secures the module with a nut to a stud
located in the bottom of the cowl plenum.
 Crank Arm (6) - The front wiper motor crank arm is a stamped steel unit with a hole on the driven end
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that is secured to the wiper motor output shaft with a nut, and has a ball stud secured to the drive end.
 Linkage (2) - Two tubular steel drive links connect the wiper motor crank arm to the wiper pivot lever
arms. The right side drive link has a plastic socket-type bushing on each end. The left side drive link has a
plastic socket-type bushing on one end, and a plastic sleeve-type bushing on the other end. The socket-
type bushing on one end of each drive link is snap-fit over the ball stud on the lever arm of its respective
pivot. The left side drive link sleeve-type bushing end is then fit over the motor crank arm ball stud, and
the other socket-type bushing of the right side drive link is snap-fit over the exposed end of the wiper
motor crank arm ball stud.
 Motor - The front wiper motor is secured with two screws near the center of the main tubular member of
the wiper module bracket, and through a rubber insulator to a stud in the bottom of the cowl plenum. An
integral connector receptacle (5) connects the motor to the vehicle electrical system through a take out
and connector of the front end module wire harness. A nut secures the wiper motor crank arm to the
motor output shaft. The two-speed permanent magnet wiper motor features an integral transmission, an
internal park switch, and an internal automatic resetting circuit breaker.
 Pivots - The two front wiper pivots are secured within the die cast pivot brackets on the outboard ends of
the wiper module main member. The lever arms that extend from the center of the pivot shafts each have
a ball stud on their end. The upper end of each pivot shaft where the wiper arms will be fastened each is
tapered and serrated with a threaded stud formation at the tip. The lower ends of the pivot shafts are
installed through lubricated bushings in the pivot brackets and are secured with snap rings.
The front wiper module cannot be adjusted or repaired. If any component of the module is ineffective or
damaged, the entire front wiper module unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
FRONT WIPER MODULE
The front wiper module operation is controlled by the battery current inputs received by the wiper motor
through the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). The wiper motor speed is controlled by current flow to
either the low speed or the high speed set of brushes. The park switch is a single pole, single throw, momentary
switch within the wiper motor that is mechanically actuated by the wiper motor transmission components. The
park switch alternately closes the wiper park switch sense circuit to ground or to battery current, depending
upon the position of the wipers on the glass. This feature allows the motor to complete its current wipe cycle
after the wiper system has been turned OFF, and to park the wiper blades in the lowest portion of the wipe
pattern. The automatic resetting circuit breaker protects the motor from overloads.
The wiper motor crank arm, the two wiper linkage members and the two wiper pivots mechanically convert the
rotary output of the wiper motor to the back and forth wiping motion of the wiper arms and blades on the glass.
The hard wired inputs and outputs of the front wiper motor may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic
will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the front wiper motor or the electronic controls or communication
between other modules and devices that provide some features of the front wiper and washer system. The most
reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the front wiper motor or the electronic controls and
communication related to front wiper motor operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the
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REMOVAL
FRONT WIPER MODULE
Fig. 43: Identifying Screws, Nut, Cowl Plenum, Weld Stud, Wiper Motor & Wire Harness Connector

2. Remove both front wiper arms from the wiper pivots. See REMOVAL.
3. Remove the cowl plenum cover/grille panel from over the cowl plenum. Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Disconnect the wire harness connector (6) for the front wiper motor (5) from the motor connector
receptacle.
5. Remove the two screws (1) that secure the ends of the front wiper module bracket to the cowl plenum (3).
6. Remove the nut (2) that secures the front wiper motor bracket rubber insulator to the weld stud (4) located
on the bottom of the cowl plenum.
7. Remove the front wiper module from the cowl plenum as a unit.
INSTALLATION
FRONT WIPER MODULE
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Fig. 44: Identifying Screws, Nut, Cowl Plenum, Weld Stud, Wiper Motor & Wire Harness Connector
1. Position the front wiper module into the cowl plenum (3) as a unit.
2. Position the front wiper motor bracket rubber insulator over the weld stud (4) located on the bottom of the
cowl plenum.
3. Loosely install the two screws (1) that secure the ends of the front wiper module bracket to the cowl
plenum. Tighten the outboard screw, followed by the inboard screw. Tighten the screws to 8 N.m (72 in.
lbs.).
4. Install and tighten the nut (2) that secures the front wiper motor bracket rubber insulator to the two weld
stud on the bottom of the cowl plenum. Tighten the nut to 7.5 N.m (67 in. lbs.).
5. Reconnect the wire harness connector (6) for the front wiper motor (5) to the motor connector receptacle.
6. Reinstall the cowl plenum cover/grille panel over the cowl plenum. Refer to INSTALLATION .
NOTE: Be certain to turn the ignition switch to the ON position, then turn the front
wiper switch ON and OFF again to cycle the wiper motor and linkage to
their natural park position before reinstalling the front wiper arms onto the
wiper pivots.
7. Reinstall both front wiper arms onto the wiper pivots. See INSTALLATION.
WIPER MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
REAR WIPER MOTOR
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Fig. 45: Locating Rear Window Wiper Motor Components

The rear wiper motor (2) is concealed within the liftgate, below the liftgate glass and behind the liftgate inner
trim panel. The end of the motor output shaft (1) that extends through the liftgate outer panel to drive the rear
wiper arm and blade is the only visible component of the rear wiper motor. A rubber bezel and grommet is
engaged within the output shaft hole of the liftgate outer panel and seals the output shaft where it passes through
the panel. An integral connector receptacle (4) connects the rear wiper motor to the vehicle electrical system
through a dedicated take out and connector of the liftgate wire harness. The rear wiper motor consists of the
following major components:
 Bracket (5) - The rear wiper motor bracket consists of a molded plastic mounting plate for the wiper
motor that is secured with screws to the wiper motor housing, and through three rubber isolators (3) to the
liftgate inner panel.
 Motor - The single-speed permanent magnet rear wiper motor is secured with screws to the rear wiper
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motor bracket. The wiper motor includes an integral transmission, a motor output shaft, an automatic
resetting circuit breaker, and the rear wiper motor park switch.
The rear wiper motor cannot be adjusted or repaired. If any component of the motor is ineffective or damaged,
the entire rear wiper motor unit must be replaced. The motor output shaft bezel and grommet, nut, and nut cover
are available for individual service replacement.
OPERATION
REAR WIPER MOTOR
The rear wiper motor operation is controlled by the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), which uses
intelligent, high current, self-protected high side switches to control rear wiper system operation for energizing
or de-energizing the rear wiper motor. The TIPM uses internal programming and electronic messages received
over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus from the Electro Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC)
(also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) to provide the appropriate rear wiper and washer system
operating modes. The EMIC uses electronic messages received from the Steering Control Module (SCM) over a
Local Interconnect Network (LIN) data bus to determine when to send electronic rear wiper system requests to
the TIPM.
The rear wiper motor park switch is a single pole, single throw, momentary switch within the wiper motor that
is mechanically actuated by the wiper motor transmission components. The park switch alternately closes and
opens a path to ground for the rear wiper motor electronic control logic circuitry of the TIPM, depending upon
the position of the rear wiper blade on the liftgate glass. This input allows the electronic logic circuits of the
TIPM to control all of the electronic features of rear wiper motor operation and to keep the motor energized
long enough to complete its current wipe cycle and park the wiper blade after the wiper system or the ignition
switch has been turned OFF.
The rear wiper motor is grounded at all times through a take out in the body wire harness that is secured to a
ground location in the passenger compartment. The automatic resetting circuit breaker protects the motor from
overloads. The rear wiper motor transmission converts the rotary output of the wiper motor to the back and
forth wiping motion of the rear wiper arm and blade on the liftgate glass.
The hard wired inputs and outputs of the rear wiper motor may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic
will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the rear wiper motor or the electronic controls or communication
between other modules and devices that provide some features of the rear wiper and washer system. The most
reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the rear wiper motor or the electronic controls and
communication related to rear wiper motor operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the
REMOVAL
REAR WIPER MOTOR
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2. Remove the rear wiper arm (4) from the rear wiper motor output shaft (1). See REMOVAL.
NOTE: The output shaft bezel and grommet (2) does not have to be removed to
remove the rear wiper motor from the liftgate.
Fig. 47: Identifying Rear Wiper Motor, Liftgate Inner Panel, Screws & Wire Harness Connector
3. Remove the trim panel from the liftgate inner panel (2). Refer to REMOVAL .
4. Disconnect the wire harness connector (4) from the rear wiper motor (1).
5. Remove the three screws (3) that secure the motor mounting bracket to the liftgate inner panel.
6. Remove the motor from the liftgate.
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7. Remove the bezel and rubber grommet on the outer liftgate panel from the output shaft housing. Be
certain to take proper precautions to protect the outer liftgate panel and its paint finish from
damage during this procedure.
INSTALLATION
REAR WIPER MOTOR
Fig. 48: Identifying Rear Wiper Motor, Liftgate Inner Panel, Screws & Wire Harness Connector
1. If the output shaft bezel and grommet were removed from the outside of the liftgate, install the rubber
bezel and grommet into the mounting hole of the liftgate outer panel.
2. Position the rear wiper motor and bracket unit (1) onto the liftgate inner panel (2) as a unit.
3. Install and tighten the three screws (3) that secure the mounting bracket to the liftgate. Tighten the screws
to 5.5 N.m (47 in. lbs.).
4. Reconnect the wire harness connector to the motor connector receptacle.
5. Reinstall the trim panel onto the liftgate inner panel. Refer to INSTALLATION .
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6. Reinstall the rear wiper arm (4) onto the output shaft (1). See INSTALLATION.
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2007 SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS Dodge - Nitro
2007 SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS
Dodge - Nitro
USING MITCHELL1'S WIRING DIAGRAMS

For information on using these wiring diagrams, see USING MITCHELL1'S SYSTEM WIRING
DIAGRAMS article.
AIR CONDITIONING
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Fig. 1: Manual A/C Circuit
ANTI-LOCK BRAKES
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Fig. 2: Anti-lock Brakes Circuit
ANTI-THEFT
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Fig. 3: Anti-theft Circuit (1 of 2)
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Fig. 4: Anti-theft Circuit (2 of 2)
BODY CONTROL MODULES
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Fig. 5: Body Control Modules Circuit (1 of 2)
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Fig. 6: Body Control Modules Circuit (2 of 2)
COMPUTER DATA LINES
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Fig. 7: Computer Data Lines Circuit (1 of 2)
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Fig. 8: Computer Data Lines Circuit (2 of 2)
COOLING FAN
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Fig. 9: Cooling Fan Circuit
CRUISE CONTROL
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Fig. 10: Cruise Control Circuit
DEFOGGERS
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Fig. 11: Defoggers Circuit
ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING
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Fig. 12: Electronic Power Steering Circuit
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
3.7L
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Fig. 13: 3.7L, Engine Performance Circuit (1 of 5)
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4.0L
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EXTERIOR LIGHTS
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Fig. 22: Back-up Lamps Circuit
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Fig. 23: Exterior Lamps Circuit (1 of 2)
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Fig. 24: Exterior Lamps Circuit (2 of 2)
GROUND DISTRIBUTION
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Fig. 25: Ground Distribution Circuit (1 of 2)
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Fig. 26: Ground Distribution Circuit (2 of 2)
HEADLIGHTS
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Fig. 27: Headlights Circuit
HORN
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Fig. 28: Horn Circuit
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
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Fig. 29: Instrument Cluster Circuit
INTERIOR LIGHTS
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Fig. 30: Interior Lights Circuit
NAVIGATION
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Fig. 31: Navigation Circuit
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Fig. 32: Parking Assistant Circuit
POWER DISTRIBUTION
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Fig. 33: Power Distribution Circuit (1 of 3)
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POWER DOOR LOCKS
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Fig. 36: Power Door Locks Circuit (1 of 2)
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Fig. 37: Power Door Locks Circuit (2 of 2)
POWER MIRRORS
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Fig. 38: Automatic Day/Night Mirror Circuit, W/ Hands Free
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Fig. 39: Automatic Day/Night Mirror Circuit, W/O Hands Free
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Fig. 40: Power Mirrors Circuit, Base
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Fig. 41: Power Mirrors Circuit, Except Base
POWER SEATS
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Fig. 42: Heated Seats Circuit
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Fig. 43: Power Seat Circuit
POWER TOP/SUNROOF
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Fig. 44: Power Top/Sunroof Circuit
POWER WINDOWS
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Fig. 45: Power Windows Circuit, Base
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Fig. 46: Power Windows Circuit, Except Base
RADIO
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Fig. 47: DVD Player Circuit
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Fig. 48: Radio Circuit, Base
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Fig. 49: Radio Circuit, Premium (1 of 2)
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Fig. 50: Radio Circuit, Premium (2 of 2)
SHIFT INTERLOCK
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Fig. 51: Shift Interlock Circuit, W/ NAG1 Transmission
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Fig. 52: Shift Interlock Circuit, W/ RLE Transmission
STARTING/CHARGING
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Fig. 53: Charging Circuit
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Fig. 54: Starting Circuit
SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINTS
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Fig. 55: Supplemental Restraints Circuit (1 of 2)
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Fig. 56: Supplemental Restraints Circuit (2 of 2)
TRANSMISSION
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Fig. 57: Transfer Case Circuit, 4WD
3.7L
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Fig. 58: 3.7L, A/T Circuit
4.0L
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Fig. 59: 4.0L, A/T Circuit
WARNING SYSTEMS
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Fig. 60: Chime Circuit
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Fig. 61: Tire Pressure Monitoring Circuit
WIPER/WASHER
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Fig. 62: Front Wiper/Washer Circuit
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Fig. 63: Rear Wiper/Washer Circuit
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Dodge Nitro 2007 Service Repair Manual

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2007 Dodge Nitro R/T

2007 ENGINE 3.7L - Service Information - Nitro

3.7L - Service Information - Nitro

Fig. 1: 3.7L Engine

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.

ENGINE MECHANICAL DIAGNOSTIC TABLE

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIONS

ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION

See ENGINE PERFORMANCE DIAGNOSTIC TABLE and ENGINE MECHANICAL DIAGNOSTIC

Cylinder Compression Pressure Test. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:

Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).

Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.

Refer to step CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART.

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART

ENGINE LUBRICATION DIAGNOSTIC TABLE

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION

ENGINE PERFORMANCE DIAGNOSTIC TABLE

CONDITION POSSIBLE CORRECTION

compression. DIAGNOSIS AND

Fig. 2: Proper Tool Usage for Surface Preparation

Never use the following to clean gasket surfaces:

Metal scraper (3).

Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:

Solvent or a commercially available gasket remover

ENGINE CORE AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS

Fig. 3: Core Hole Plug Removal

3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER

REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS

Drilling out worn or damaged threads.

Fig. 4: Removing/Installing A/C Compressor

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.

Fig. 5: Removing/Installing Generator

Courtesy of CHRYSLER LLC

Fig. 6: Crankshaft Position Sensor & Cylinder Head Cover

18. Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the following points:

 Electronic Throttle Control (ETC)

 Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor

 Engine Oil Pressure Switch

 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor

 Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor

 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor

 Coil Over Plugs

 Crankshaft Position Sensor (2)

19. Remove coil over plugs.

Fig. 7: Identifying Nut, Ground Strap & Brake Booster

22. Remove the PCV hose.

Fig. 8: 3.7L Intake Torque Sequence

27. Remove intake manifold.

Fig. 9: Starter Motor - 3.7L

32. Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.

NOTE: For manual transmission vehicles, the transmission must be removed

37. Remove the starter. Refer to REMOVAL .

Fig. 10: Structural Cover

42. Lower the vehicle.

Fig. 11: Starter Motor - 3.7L

1. Position the engine in the vehicle.

Fig. 12: Structural Cover

9. Install the engine block heater power cable, if equipped.

CAUTION: The structural cover requires a specific torque sequence. Failure to

11. Install the left and right exhaust pipes.

Fig. 13: Body Ground Strap-Left Side Removal/Installation