Professional Baking, 7th Edition 7th

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 Contents

Recipe Contents xiii

Preface xxi
About CulinarE-Companion™ xxv
About WileyPLUS Learning Space xxvi

1 The Baking Profession 3

Baking: Historical Background 4

Baking and Pastry Careers 10

2 Basic Professional Skills:

Bakeshop Math and Food Safety 15

Using Formulas 16
Measurement 19
Using Baker’s Percentages 23
Cost Calculations 28
Food Safety and Sanitation 30

3 Baking and Pastry Equipment 41

Large Equipment 42
Pans, Containers, and Molds 46
Hand Tools and Miscellaneous Equipment 49

vii

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 viii CONTENTS

4 Ingredients 53

Wheat Flour 54
Other Flours, Meals, and Starches 61
Sugars 63
Fats 66
Milk and Milk Products 70
Eggs 74
Leavening Agents 77
Gelling Agents 80
Fruits and Nuts 83
Chocolate and Cocoa 84
Salt, Spices, and Flavorings 88

5 Basic Baking Principles 93

Mixing and Gluten Development 94

The Baking Process 98
After Baking 100

6 Understanding Yeast Doughs 103

Yeast Product Types 104

The 12 Steps of Yeast Dough Production 105
Standards of Quality for Yeast Goods 114

7 Lean Yeast Doughs: Straight Doughs 117

Mixing Methods 118

Controlling Fermentation 122
Producing Handcrafted Breads 124
Makeup Techniques 140

8 Lean Yeast Doughs: Sponges,

Pre-Ferments, and Sourdoughs 155

Sponges and Other Yeast Pre-Ferments 156

Sourdough Starters 159
From Fermentation to Baking 163

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 CONTENTS ix

9 Rich Yeast Doughs 181

Sweet Dough and Rich Dough Formulas 182

Laminated Dough Formulas 188
Makeup of Rich-Dough Products 193

10 Quick Breads 211

Muffin Mixing and Production Methods 212

Biscuit Mixing and Production Methods 214

11 Doughnuts, Fritters, Pancakes,

and Waffles 229
Doughnuts and Other Fried Pastries 230
Pancakes and Waffles 242

12 Basic Syrups, Creams, and Sauces 251

Sugar Cooking 252

Basic Foams: Whipped Cream and Meringues 255
Custard Sauces 260
Dessert Sauces and Chocolate Creams 267

13 Pies 279

Pie Doughs 280

Assembly and Baking 284
Fillings 288
Standards of Quality for Pies 308

14 Pastry Basics 311

Pâte Brisée and Short Pastries 312

Puff Pastry 315
Éclair Paste 329
Strudel and Phyllo 335
Baked Meringues 341

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 x CONTENTS

15 Tarts and Special Pastries 349

Tarts and Tartlets 350

Special Pastries 359

16 Cake Mixing and Baking 373

Principles of Cake Mixing 374

Mixing High-Fat or Shortened Cakes 376
Mixing Egg-Foam Cakes 380
Cake Formula Balance 385
Scaling, Panning, and Baking 386
Standards of Quality for Cakes 389
Altitude Adjustments 391

17 Assembling and Decorating Cakes 415

Preparing Icings 416

Assembling and Icing Simple Cakes 430
Basic Decorating Techniques 434
Planning and Assembling Specialty Cakes 442
Procedures for Specialty Cakes 450

18 Cookies 475

Cookie Characteristics and Their Causes 476

Mixing Methods 477
Types and Makeup Methods 479
Panning, Baking, and Cooling 482
Standards of Quality for Cookies 483

19 Custards, Puddings, Mousses, and Soufflés 511

Range-Top Custards and Puddings 512

Baked Custards and Puddings and Steamed Desserts 515
Bavarians, Mousses, and Charlottes 525
Dessert Soufflés 541

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 CONTENTS xi

20 Frozen Desserts 545

Identifying Quality Ice Cream and Sorbet Desserts 546

Preparing Ice Creams and Sorbets 549
Preparing Still-Frozen Desserts 558

21 Fruit Desserts 567

Handling Fresh Fruits 568

Preparing Fruit Desserts 576

22 Dessert Presentation 597

Overview of Dessert Plating 598

Practical Plating Guidelines 600

23 Chocolate 625

Production and Tempering of Chocolate 626

Molding Chocolate 630
Chocolate Decorations 631
Chocolate Truffles and Confections 638

24 Marzipan, Pastillage, and Nougatine 647

Marzipan 648
Pastillage 652
Nougatine 656

25 Sugar Techniques 661

Boiling Syrups for Sugar Work 662

Spun Sugar, Caramel Decorations, and Poured Sugar 663
Pulled Sugar and Blown Sugar 669
Boiled Sugar Confections 676

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 xii CONTENTS

26 Baking for Special Diets 683

Nutritional Concerns 684

Food Allergies and Intolerances 688
Modifying Formulas for Special Needs 691

APPENDIX 1 Large-Quantity Measurements 708

APPENDIX 2 Metric Conversion Factors 733

APPENDIX 3 Decimal Equivalents of Common Fractions 734

APPENDIX 4 Approximate Volume Equivalents of Dry Foods 735

APPENDIX 5 Temperature Calculations for Yeast Doughs 736

APPENDIX 6 Egg Safety 738

Glossary 739
Bibliography 748
Recipe Index 749
Subject Index 759

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 Recipe Contents
7 Lean Yeast Doughs: Straight Doughs
French Rye 170
Pain De Campagne (Country-Style Bread) 170
Four-Grain Bread 171
Hard Rolls 126
Prosciutto Bread 171
Vienna Bread 126
Olive Bread 172
Italian Bread 127
Basic Sourdough Starter 173
Whole Wheat Italian Bread 127
Yogurt Sour 173
Pizza 127
Apple Sour 174
French Bread (Straight Dough) 128
Rustic Sourdough Bread 175
Whole Wheat French Bread 128
White Sourdough (Mixed Fermentation) 176
Baguette 129
Fig Hazelnut Bread 177
Fougasse 129
Fig Rolls 177
Cuban Bread 129
Apple Sourdough 178
White Pan Bread 130
Whole Wheat, Rye, and Nut Sourdough 179
Whole Wheat Bread 130

9
Egg Bread and Rolls 130
Soft Rolls 131 Rich Yeast Doughs
Cinnamon Bread 131
Raisin Bread 131 Sweet Roll Dough 183
100% Whole Wheat Bread 131 Rich Sweet Dough 184
Challah 132 Stollen 184
Milk Bread (Pain au Lait) 132 Babka 184
Light American Rye Bread and Rolls 133 Kugelhopf 185
Onion Rye 133 Hot Cross Buns 186
Onion Pumpernickel (Nonsour) 133 Cross Paste 186
Seven-Grain Bread 134 Baba/Savarin Dough 186
Multigrain Bread 134 Panettone 187
English Muffins 135 Brioche 188
Bagels 136 Danish Pastry Dough (Croissant-Style) 190
Olive Focaccia 137 Danish Pastry Dough (Brioche-Style) 191
Chestnut Bread 137 Croissants 192
Crumpets 138 Danish Pastry 193
Amish-Style Soft Pretzels 139 Cinnamon Sugar 193
Pita 140 Clear Glaze 194
Apricot Glaze I 194

8
Lean Yeast Doughs:
Sponges, Pre-Ferments, and Sourdoughs
French Bread (Sponge) 164
Country-Style French Bread 164
Ciabatta 165
White Pan Bread (Sponge) 166
Herb Focaccia (Sponge Method) 167
Basic Yeast Starter (Biga) 168
Rye Starter I 168
Rye Starter II 168
Old-Fashioned Rye Bread 169
Pumpernickel Bread 169
Apricot Glaze II 194
Streusel or Crumb Topping 195
Nut Streusel 195
Lemon Cheese Filling 195
Date, Prune, or Apricot Filling 195
Almond Filling I (Frangipane) 196
Almond Filling II (Frangipane) 196
Almond Cream (Crème D’amande) 196
Lemon Filling 197
Apple Compote Filling 197
Cinnamon Raisin Filling 197
Pecan Maple Filling 198
Cheese Filling 198
Hazelnut Filling 198

xiii

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 xiv RECIPE CONTENTS

Poppy Seed Filling 199 Fritter Batter I 235

Chocolate Filling 199 Fritter Batter II 236
Honey Pan Glaze (for Caramel Rolls) 199 French Doughnuts (Beignets Soufflés) 236
Beignets De Carnival 237

10 Quick Breads
Fattigman 238
Viennoise 238
Cannoli Shells 239
Biscuits I 216
Sicilian Cannoli 239
Buttermilk Biscuits 216
Ricotta Cannoli Filling 239
Cheese Biscuits 216
Jalebis 240
Currant Biscuits 216
Chinese Sesame Balls 241
Herb Biscuits 216
Pancakes and Waffles 243
Biscuits II 217
Buttermilk Pancakes and Waffles 243
Plain Muffins 218
Gaufres (French Waffles) 244
Raisin Spice Muffins 218
Crêpes 245
Blueberry Muffins 218
Chocolate Crêpes 245
Whole Wheat Muffins 218
Crêpes Suzette (Dining Room Preparation) 246
Corn Muffins 218
Crêpes Soufflés Suzette 247
Corn Cheese Muffins 218
Chocolate Soufflé Crêpes 248
Bran Muffins 218
Crêpe Gâteau with Plum Compote 249
Crumb Coffee Cake 218
Muffins (Creaming Method) 219
Chocolate Chip Muffins 219
Blueberry Muffins 219
12 Basic Syrups, Creams, and Sauces
Raisin Spice Muffins 219
Vanilla Syrup 254
Corn Bread, Muffins, or Sticks 219
Cocoa Vanilla Syrup 254
Zucchini Carrot Nut Muffins 220
Coffee Rum Syrup 255
Scones 221
Coffee Syrup 255
Cranberry Drop Scones 221
Rum Syrup 255
English Cream Scones 222
Crème Chantilly 257
Steamed Brown Bread 222
Common Meringue (French Meringue) 258
Orange Nut Bread 222
Chocolate Meringue 258
Lemon Nut Bread 222
Swiss Meringue 259
Banana Bread 223
Italian Meringue 259
Date Nut Bread 223
Crème Anglaise 261
Plum Cake 224
Chocolate Crème Anglaise 261
Almond Poppy Seed Muffins 224
Coffee Crème Anglaise 261
Lemon Poppy Seed Muffins 224
Pastry Cream (Crème Pâtissière) 263
Apple Spice Muffins 225
Deluxe Pastry Cream 263
Pumpkin Muffins 225
Pastry Cream Mousseline 263
Double Chocolate Muffins 226
Chocolate Pastry Cream 263
Gingerbread 226
Praline Pastry Cream 263
Soda Bread 227
Coffee Pastry Cream 263
Chiboust Cream 264
11 Doughnuts, Fritters, Pancakes, Chocolate Chiboust Cream 264
Coffee Chiboust Cream 264
and Waffles Praline Chiboust Cream 264
Yeast-Raised Doughnuts 232 Chiboust Cream with Raspberries 265
Ring Doughnuts 232 Chiboust Cream Flavored with Alcohol 265
Jelly-Filled Doughnuts (Bismarcks) 232 Lime or Lemon Chiboust 266
Long Johns 232 Vanilla Crème Diplomat 266
Fried Cinnamon Rolls 232 Chocolate Crème Diplomat 266
Twists 232 Chocolate Sauce I 269
Cake Doughnuts 233 Chocolate Sauce II 269
Chocolate Cake Doughnuts 233 Chocolate Fudge Sauce 269
Rich Vanilla Spice Doughnuts 234 Fruit Coulis 270
Doughnut Glaze 234 Melba Sauce 270
Honey Glaze 234 Raspberry Sauce 270

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 RECIPE CONTENTS xv

Caramel Sauce 271 Chocolate Cream Pie Filling II 300

Hot Caramel Sauce 271 Butterscotch Cream Pie Filling 300
Clear Caramel Sauce 271 Lemon Pie Filling 300
Butterscotch Sauce 271 Coconut Cream Pie Filling 300
Caramel Cream 271 Strawberry Rhubarb Pie Filling 301
Butter Caramel 271 Strawberry Chiffon Pie Filling 304
Chocolate Ganache I 272 Strawberry Cream Chiffon Pie Filling 304
Chocolate Ganache II 272 Raspberry Chiffon Pie Filling 304
Passion Fruit Ganache 273 Pineapple Chiffon Pie Filling 304
Chocolate Mousse I 273 Chocolate Chiffon Pie Filling 305
Chocolate Mousse II 273 Chocolate Cream Chiffon Pie Filling 305
Sabayon I 274 Pumpkin Chiffon Pie Filling 305
Sabayon II 274 Pumpkin Cream Chiffon Pie Filling 305
Cold Sabayon 274 Lemon Chiffon Pie Filling 306
Zabaglione 274 Lime Chiffon Pie Filling 306
Sauce Suzette 275 Orange Chiffon Pie Filling 306
Blueberry Sauce 275 French Silk Pie Filling 307
Basil Honeydew Gelée 276
Dulce De Leche 276
Hard Sauce 277 14 Pastry Basics
Cream Sauce for Piping 277
Pâte Brisée 313

13
Pâte Sablée 313
Pies Chocolate Pâte Sablée 313
Pâte Sucrée 314
Pie Dough 283 Short Dough I 314
Enriched Pie Pastry 283 Short Dough II 314
Graham Cracker Crust 284 Almond Short Dough 315
Apple Pie Filling (Canned Fruit) 292 Linzer Dough I 315
Dutch Apple Pie Filling 292 Linzer Dough II 315
Cherry Pie Filling 292 Classic Puff Pastry (Pâte Feuilletée Classique) 318
Peach Pie Filling 292 Ordinary Puff Pastry 319
Pineapple Pie Filling 292 Blitz Puff Pastry 319
Blueberry Pie Filling (Frozen Fruit) 293 Reversed Puff Pastry
Apple Pie Filling 293 (Pâte Feuilletée Inversée) 320
Cherry Pie Filling 293 Pinwheels 321
Raisin Pie Filling 293 Patty Shells 322
Fresh Apple Pie Filling I 294 Turnovers 322
Fresh Apple Pie Filling II 294 Baked Apple Dumplings 323
Apple Ginger Pie Filling 294 Cream Horns 323
Apple Pear Pie Filling 294 Napoleons 324
Apple Walnut Pie Filling 294 Fruit Tarts 325
Rhubarb Pie Filling 294 Fruit Strips 325
Peach Sour Cream Pie Filling 295 Chaussons 325
Pear Sour Cream Pie 295 Palmiers 326
Old-Fashioned Apple Pie Filling 295 Allumettes 327
Fresh Strawberry Pie Filling 296 Papillons (Butterflies, or Bow Ties) 327
Fresh Blueberry Tart Filling 296 Conversations 328
Custard Pie Filling 297 Sacristains 329
Coconut Custard Pie Filling 297 Éclair Paste or Pâte À Choux 330
Pecan Pie Filling 297 Cream Puffs 331
Maple Walnut Pie Filling 297 Éclairs 331
Pumpkin Pie Filling 298 Frozen Éclairs and Profiteroles 331
Sweet Potato Pie Filling 298 Paris-Brest 332
Squash Pie Filling 298 Choux Pastry Lattice 332
Key Lime Pie Filling 299 Paris-Brest Miniatures 333
Vanilla Cream Pie Filling 300 Pralines 334
Banana Cream Pie Filling 300 Choux Florentines 334
Chocolate Cream Pie Filling I 300 Mini Éclairs 334

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 xvi RECIPE CONTENTS

Mini Cream Puffs 335

Popovers 335 16 Cake Mixing and Baking
Strudel Dough 336
Yellow Butter Cake 392
Apple Filling for Strudel 339
Upside-Down Cake 392
Cheese Filling for Strudel 339
Walnut Cake 392
Cream Cheese Filling for Strudel 339
Pan Spread 392
Baklava 340
Chocolate Butter Cake 392
Crisp Baked Meringues 341
Brown Sugar Spice Cake 393
Almond Meringues 342
Carrot Nut Cake 393
Japonaise Meringues 342
Banana Cake 393
Marly Sponge 343
Applesauce Cake 393
Coconut Dacquoise 343
Old-Fashioned Pound Cake 394
Hazelnut Coconut Sponge 344
Raisin Pound Cake 394
Succès 344
Chocolate Pound Cake 394
Progrès 344
Marble Pound Cake 394
Pistachio Macaroon Sponge 345
Sheet Cake for Petits Fours
Chocolate Heads 345
and Fancy Pastries 394
Meringue Chantilly 345
Fruit Cake 394
Meringue Glacée 346
Fruit Mix I (Dark) 395
Meringue Mushrooms 346
Fruit Mix II (Light) 395
Meringue Cream Cakes 346
Almond Cake for Petits Fours 395
Vacherin 347
Sacher Mix I 396

15
Sacher Mix II 396
Tarts and Special Pastries Red Velvet Cake 397
White Cake 398
Fresh Fruit Tart 352 Yellow Cake 398
Apple Tart 353 Strawberry Cake 398
Plum, Apricot, Cherry, or Peach Tart 353 Cherry Cake 398
Apple Custard Tart 353 Devil’s Food Cake 399
Lemon Tart 353 High-Ratio Pound Cake 399
Pear Almond Tart 354 Yellow Cake (Liquid Shortening) 400
Fruit Tart with Pastry Cream 354 White Cake (Liquid Shortening) 400
Frangipane Tart 354 Chocolate Cake (Liquid Shortening) 400
Fruit Tartlets 354 Genoise 401
Chocolate Tart 355 Chocolate Genoise 401
Chocolate Banana Tart 355 Sponge for Seven-Layer Cake 401
Tarte Tatin 356 Almond Sponge I 401
Pear Tarte Tatin and Peach Tarte Tatin 356 Almond Sponge II 401
Orange Brûlée Tart 357 Sponge Roll I 401
Caramelized Apple Tart with Vanilla 357 Chocolate Sponge Roll I 401
Walnut Tart 358 Genoise Mousseline 401
Linzertorte 358 Sponge Roll II (Swiss Roll) 402
Gâteau St-Honoré 360 Dobos Mix 402
Praline Millefeuille 361 Chocolate Sponge Roll II (Chocolate Swiss Roll) 402
Praline Pailletine 361 Jelly Roll Sponge 402
Apricot Pithiviers 362 Milk and Butter Sponge 403
Capucine Chocolate 363 Angel Food Cake 403
Passionata 364 Chocolate Angel Food Cake 403
Gâteau Succès 366 Coconut Macaroon Cupcakes 403
Chocolatines 366 Yellow Chiffon Cake 404
Nougatine Parisienne 367 Chocolate Chiffon Cake 404
Creole Délices 368 Orange Chiffon Cake 404
Chocolate Rum Délices 368 Chocolate Fudge Cake 405
Financiers Au Café 368 Chocolate Surprise Cake 405
Praline Cake (Pralinette) 369 Joconde Sponge Cake (Biscuit Joconde) 405
Sfogliatelle 370 Hazelnut Joconde Sponge Cake 405

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 RECIPE CONTENTS xvii

Ribbon Sponge 406 Bavarian Cream Torte 458

Ladyfinger Sponge 407 Feuille D’automne 459
Ladyfinger Cookies 407 Alhambra 460
Marjolaine Sponge Cake 407 Genoise À La Confiture Framboise (Genoise
Hazelnut Sponge Cake 408 with Raspberry Filling) 461
Almond Pound Cake (Pain De Gênes) 408 Brasilia 462
Baumkuchen 409 Russian Cake 463
Almond Chocolate Sponge 410 Opera Cake 464
Chocolate Sponge Layers 410 Monte Carlo 465
Chocolate Velvet Cake (Moelleux) 411 Jelled Spiced Apricot Compote 466
Lemon Madeleines 412 Julianna 466
Chocolate and Orange Madeleines 412 Tiramisù 467
Marronier (Chestnut Cake Petits Fours) 413 Mascarpone Filling 467
Bananier 468

17 Assembling and Decorating Cakes

Caramelized Banana Slices for Bananier 468
Almond Swiss Rolls 469
Black Forest Roll 470
Poured Fondant 417
Bûche De Noël (Chocolate Christmas Roll) 470
Simple Buttercream 419
Harlequin Roll 470
Simple Buttercream with Egg Yolks or Whole Eggs 419
Mocha Roll 471
Decorator’s Buttercream or Rose Paste 419
Praline Ganache Roll 471
Cream Cheese Icing 419
Strawberry Cream Roll 471
Italian Buttercream 420
Swiss Buttercream 420
French Buttercream 421
Praline Buttercream 421
18 Cookies
Caramel Buttercream 422 Oatmeal Raisin Cookies 485
Vanilla Cream 422 Chocolate Chip Cookies 485
Light Praline Cream 422 Brown Sugar Nut Cookies 485
Cocoa Fudge Icing 423 Icebox Cookies 486
Vanilla Fudge Icing 423 Butterscotch Icebox Cookies 486
Caramel Fudge Icing 424 Nut Icebox Cookies 486
Quick White Fudge Icing I 424 Chocolate Icebox Cookies 486
Quick Chocolate Fudge Icing 424 Fancy Icebox Cookies 486
Quick White Fudge Icing II 425 Pinwheel Cookies 486
Flat Icing 425 Checkerboard Cookies 487
Royal Icing 426 Bull’s-Eye Cookies 487
Chocolate Glaçage or Sacher Glaze 427 Sugar Cookies 487
Ganache Icing (Ganache À Glacer) 427 Brown Sugar Rolled Cookies 487
Opera Glaze 428 Chocolate Rolled Cookies 487
Fruit Glaçage 428 Double Chocolate Macadamia Chunk
Cocoa Jelly 429 Cookies 488
Coffee Marble Glaze 429 Chocolate Chocolate Chunk
Black Forest Torte 451 Cookies 488
Mocha Torte 452 Almond Slices 489
Fruit Torte 452 Rich Shortbread 489
Dobos Torte 453 Basic Short Dough for Cookies 490
Seven-Layer Cake 453 Jam Tarts 490
Napoleon Gâteau 453 Almond Crescents 490
Sachertorte 454 Peanut Butter Cookies 490
Kirsch Torte 455 Snickerdoodles 491
Orange Cream Cake 455 Molasses Cookies 491
Strawberry Cake 456 Cinnamon Cookies 492
Chocolate Mousse Cake 456 Chocolate Cinnamon Cookies 492
Chocolate Ganache Torte 457 Nut Cookies 492
Abricotine 457 Speculaas 493
Almond Gâteau 458 Diamonds 493

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 xviii RECIPE CONTENTS

Butter Tea Cookies 494 Rice Pudding 520

Fancy Tea Cookies 494 Raisin Rice Pudding 520
Chocolate Tea Cookies 494 Rice Condé 520
Sandwich-Type Cookies 494 Tapioca Pudding 520
Gingerbread Cookies 494 Cream Cheesecake 521
Gingersnaps 495 Cheesecake with Baker’s Cheese 521
Spritz Cookies 495 French Cheesecake 521
Langues De Chat 496 Christmas Pudding 523
Raisin Spice Bars 496 Steamed Blueberry Pudding 524
Lemon Wafers 497 Steamed Raisin Spice Pudding 524
Lime Wafers 497 Steamed Chocolate Almond Pudding 524
Coconut Macaroons (Meringue Type) 497 Vanilla Bavarian Cream 528
Almond Macaroons 498 Chocolate Bavarian Cream 528
Amaretti 498 White Chocolate Bavarian Cream 528
Parisian Macarons I 499 Coffee Bavarian Cream 528
Pistachio Macarons 499 Strawberry Bavarian Cream 528
Chocolate Macarons 499 Raspberry Bavarian Cream 528
Pistachio filling for Macarons 499 Liqueur Bavarian Cream 528
Parisian Macarons II 500 Praline Bavarian Cream 528
Chocolate Macaroons I 500 Diplomat Bavarian Cream 528
Coconut Macaroons (Chewy Type) 501 Orange Bavarian Cream 528
Chocolate Macaroons II 501 Charlotte Russe 528
Swiss Leckerli 501 Charlotte Royale 528
Almond Tuiles I 502 Fruit Bavarian 529
Tulipes 502 Rice Impératrice 530
Almond Tuiles II 503 Cream Cheese Bavarian 530
Sesame Tuiles 503 Icebox Cheesecake 530
Classic Brownies 504 Three-Chocolate Bavarois 531
Rich Brownies 505 Almond Cream 532
Cream Cheese Brownies 506 Passion Fruit Bavarian 532
Florentines 507 Charlotte Au Cassis 533
Biscotti 508 Passion Fruit Charlotte 533
Espresso Biscotti 508 Mousse Au Cassis
Chocolate Pecan Biscotti 509 (Blackcurrant Mousse) 534
Passion Fruit Mousse 534

19 Custards, Puddings, Mousses, and Soufflés

Nougatine Cream 534
Praline Cream I 535
Praline Cream II 535
Blancmange, English-Style 513 Banana Mousse 535
Panna Cotta 514 L’exotique 536
Chocolate Crémeux 514 Coconut Mousse with Tropical Fruit 537
Milk Chocolate Crémeux 514 Chocolate Mousse III 537
Baked Custard 516 Chocolate Mousse IV 538
Crème Caramel 516 Milk Chocolate Mousse 538
Vanilla Pots De Crème 516 White Chocolate Mousse 538
Chocolate Pots De Crème 516 Chocolate Mousse V (with Gelatin) 538
Crème Brûlée 517 Chocolate Terrine 539
Coffee Crème Brûlée 517 Chocolate Indulgence 540
Cinnamon Crème Brûlée 517 Ganache I 541
Chocolate Crème Brûlée 517 Ganache II 541
Raspberry or Blueberry Crème Brûlée 517 Vanilla Soufflé 542
Raspberry Passion Fruit Crème Brûlée 517 Chocolate Soufflé 542
Bread and Butter Pudding 518 Lemon Soufflé 542
Brandy or Whiskey Bread Pudding 518 Liqueur Soufflé 542
Cabinet Pudding 518 Coffee Soufflé 542
Dried Cherry Bread Pudding 518 Praline Soufflé 542
Chocolate Bread Pudding 519

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 RECIPE CONTENTS xix

20 Frozen Desserts
Banana Mousse 563
Lemon Mousse 563
Chestnut Mousse 563
Vanilla Ice Cream 550
Raspberry or Strawberry Mousse 563
Vanilla Bean Ice Cream 550
Frozen Mousse II (Syrup and Fruit Base) 563
Chocolate Ice Cream 550
Frozen Mousse III (Custard Base) 563
Cinnamon Ice Cream 550
White Chocolate Parfait with Flambéed
Coffee Ice Cream 550
Cherries 564
Carob Ice Cream 550
Iced Low-Fat Raspberry Parfait 565
Coconut Ice Cream 550

21
Caramel Ice Cream 550
Almond, Hazelnut, or Macadamia Fruit Desserts
Praline Ice Cream 550
Cheesecake Ice Cream 550 Poached Fruit (Fruit Compote) 578
Strawberry Ice Cream 550 Poached Apples, Pears, or Pineapple 578
Raspberry Swirl Ice Cream 551 Pears in Wine 578
Mango Ice Cream 551 Poached Peaches 578
Peach Ice Cream 551 Peaches in Wine 578
Gingerbread-Spice Ice Cream 551 Poached Apricots, Plums,
Lemon Ice Cream 551 or Nectarines 578
Lime Ice Cream 551 Poached Cherries 578
Sorbet 552 Poached Dried Fruit 578
Lemon or Lime Sorbet 552 Tropical Fruit Compote 578
Orange or Tangerine Sorbet 552 Fresh Fruit Salad 578
Raspberry, Strawberry, Melon, or Kiwi Sorbet 552 Fruit Salad 579
Mango Sorbet 552 Marinated Tropical Fruits 579
Pineapple Sorbet 552 Chilled Summer Fruit Soup 580
Blueberry Sorbet 552 Caramelized Pears 581
Banana Passion Fruit Sorbet 552 Caramelized Apples 581
Rhubarb Sorbet 553 Caramelized Peaches 581
White Wine or Champagne Sorbet 553 Caramelized Pineapple 581
Chocolate Sorbet 553 Caramelized Bananas 581
Mascarpone Sorbet 553 Apple Crisp 582
Honey Ice Cream 553 Peach, Cherry, or Rhubarb Crisp 582
Dulce De Leche Ice Cream 554 Fruit Cobbler 582
Bitter Chocolate Ice Cream 554 Apple Betty 583
Raspberry Frozen Yogurt 555 Apple Charlotte 583
Pistachio Gelato 555 Strawberries Romanoff 584
Coconut Sorbet 556 Gratin De Fruits Rouges (Berry Gratin) 584
Cider Apple Sorbet 556 Raspberry or Cherry Gratin 585
Coffee or Espresso Granita 556 Baked Apples Tatin-Style 586
Cassata Italienne 557 Crème Brûlée Sophia 587
Basic Bombe Mixture I 559 Figs in Port Wine 587
Syrup for Bombes 559 Caramelized Pear Charlotte 588
Basic Bombe Mixture II 560 Spiced Pineapple 589
Vanilla 560 Raspberry Jam 589
Chocolate 560 Apple Marmalade 589
Liqueur 560 Strawberry Marmalade 590
Coffee 560 Caramelized Apricots 590
Praline 560 Plum Compote 591
Fruit (Raspberry, Strawberry, Apricot, Peach, etc.) 560 Apricot Compote 591
Bombe or Parfait with Fruit 560 Apricot and Almond Compote 591
Bombe or Parfait with Nuts, Sponge Cake, Pineapple Kumquat Compote 592
or Other Ingredients 560 Kumquat Compote 592
Frozen Mousse I (Meringue Base) 562 Candied Orange or Lemon Zest 592
Liqueur Mousse 562 Apple Crisps 593
Chocolate Mousse 562 Applesauce 593
Apricot Mousse 563 Apricot Jellies (Pâte De Fruits) 594

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 xx RECIPE CONTENTS

22 Dessert Presentation 24 Marzipan, Pastillage, and Nougatine

Chocolate Crémeux and Raspberries 607 Marzipan 649
Peach Napoleon 608 Pastillage 653
Crème Brûlée with Melon 608 Nougatine 658
Apple-Filled Brioche with Berries 609
Chilled Summer Fruit Soup with Strawberry Sorbet 610
Russian Cake with Honey Ice Cream 611 25 Sugar Techniques
Passion Fruit Charlotte 611
Spun Sugar 666
Spice Cake with Caramelized Apples 612
Caramel for Cages and Other Shapes 666
Iced Low-Fat Raspberry Parfait with Almond Macarons 612
Poured Sugar 668
Savarin with Berries 613
Pulled Sugar and Blown Sugar 670
Brownie Cherry Cheesecake Ice Cream Sandwich 614
Hard Candies 677
Steamed Chocolate Almond Pudding
Toffee 678
with Praline Ice Cream 614
Peanut Brittle 679
Trio of Fruit Sorbets 615
Soft Caramels 680
Apple Fritters with Mascarpone Sorbet 616
Chocolate Caramels 680
Angel Food Cake with Plum Compote
Nut Caramels 680
and Mascarpone Sorbet 617
Chocolate Fudge 681
Panna Cotta with Caramel and Fresh Berries 617
Vanilla Fudge 681
Raspberry Millefeuille 618
Brown Sugar Fudge 681
French Doughnuts with Pineapple 618
Peanut Butter Fudge 681
French-Toasted Challah with Cheesecake Ice Cream 619

26
Spiced Pineapple with Coconut Sorbet 620
Financiers with Chocolate Sauce Baking for Special Diets
and Frozen “Cappuccino” 621
Charlotte Au Cassis 621 Low-Fat Apple Honey Muffins 697
Linzer “Shortcake” with Berries 622 Low-Fat Multigrain Brown Bread 698
Poached Pear with Baklava Low-Fat Chocolate Pie 699
and Mascarpone Cream 623 Low-Fat Chocolate Pudding 699
Low-Fat Graham Cracker Pie Shell 699

23 Chocolate
No-Sugar-Added Lemon Cookies 700
No-Sugar-Added Cinnamon Cookies 700
Reduced-Sugar Apple Spice Cake 701
Dark Chocolate Truffles 641
Gluten-Free Chocolate Cake 701
Banana Truffles 641
Gluten-Free Yeast Bread 702
Orange Truffles 642
Gluten-Free Chocolate Chip Cookies 703
Rocher With Almonds 642
Gluten-Free Brownies 704
Lemon Truffles 643
Lactose-Free Crème Caramel 705
Muscadines 644
Lactose-Free Mango Coconut Ice Cream 706

ftoc.indd 20 3/22/2016 7:18:07 PM

 Preface
Professional Baking has been a widely used resource and teach-
ing tool for tens of thousands of students since it was first pub-
lished. During that time, the baking industry has evolved as
interest in artisan baking has blossomed, and Professional
Baking has changed with each new edition to keep pace with new
demands. At the same time, the art and science of teaching has
also evolved rapidly as new technological resources have become
available to instructors and students.
Electronic media, including WileyPLUS, Wiley’s online teach-
ing and learning environment, and CulinarE-CompanionTM recipe
management software, provide a wealth of resources and tools to
make the latest Professional Baking the best learning and teach-
ing text yet. This new 7th edition of the text has been reorganized to
fully integrate the print book with its electronic resources. (This
wealth of resources is described in more detail later in this
preface.)
Even with these developments, however, the focus of the
text remains, as it always has, on a solid grounding in the basics,
presented in a straightforward and easy-to-grasp style.
The goal of Professional Baking is to provide students and
working chefs with a solid theoretical and practical foundation in
baking practices, including selection of ingredients, proper mix-
ing and baking techniques, careful makeup and assembly, and
skilled and imaginative decoration and presentation. It is
designed as a primary text for use in colleges and culinary schools,
baking courses within broader food-service curricula, and on-the-
job training programs, as well as providing a solid reference for
professional bakers and pastry chefs.
Professional Baking focuses on both understanding and
performing. The practical material is supported by a systematic
presentation of basic theory and ingredient information, to
ensure that students learn not only what techniques work but
also why they work. Procedures for basic bread and pastry
doughs, cake mixes, creams, and icings form the core of the mate-
rial. Much of the text is devoted to step-by-step procedures and
production techniques. The discussion of techniques is reinforced
with straightforward formulas that allow students to develop
their skills while working with large or small quantities.
Organization of the Text
Two factors strongly influence the arrangement and organization
of Professional Baking. First is the aforementioned dual empha-
sis of the book, on both understanding and performing. It is not
enough to present readers with a collection of formulas; nor is it
sufficient to give them a freestanding summary of baking theory
and principles. These must be presented together, and the con-
nections between them made clear. In this way, when students
xxi
flast.indd 21
practice preparing specific items, their study of theory helps them
understand what they are doing, why they are doing it, and how
to achieve the best results. At the same time, each formula they
prepare helps reinforce their understanding of the basic princi-
ples. Knowledge builds upon knowledge.
The second factor revolves around the fact that most of a
baker’s activities fall naturally into two categories: (1) mixing,
baking, and/or cooking doughs, batters, fillings, creams, and
icings, and (2) assembling these elements (for example, baked
cake layers, fillings, and icings) into finished pieces. The first cat-
egory of tasks requires careful selection of ingredients, accurate
measurement, and close attention to mixing and baking proce-
dures. Naturally, most of the detailed guidelines and procedures
in this book are devoted to these kinds of tasks. The second cat-
egory, the assembly of prepared components, is less a matter of
scientific accuracy than of manual skills and artistic abilities.
The Formulas
Nearly 900 formulas and recipes are given for the most popular
breads, cakes, pastries, and desserts. These formulas have not
been selected at random, merely for the sake of having formulas
in the book. Rather, they are carefully chosen, developed, and
tested to teach and reinforce the techniques students are learn-
ing, and to strengthen their understanding of basic principles.
The goal is for students to understand and use not only the for-
mulas in this book, but any formula they encounter.
The formulas in this book are instructional; their purpose is
not only to give directions for producing baked goods but also to
provide an opportunity to practice, with specific ingredients, the
general principles being studied. Directions within formulas are
often abbreviated. For example, instead of spelling out the
straight dough method for breads in detail for each dough mixed
in this way, the book refers the student to the preceding discus-
sion of the procedure. By thinking and reviewing in this way, stu-
dents derive a stronger learning experience from their lab work.
Many formulas are followed by variations. These are actually
whole formulas given in abbreviated terms. This feature encour-
ages students to see the similarities and differences among prepa-
rations. For example, there seems little point in giving a formula
for cream pie filling in the pie chapter, a formula for custard filling
for éclairs and napoleons in the pastry chapter, and separate for-
mulas for each flavor of cream pudding in the pudding chapter,
without pointing out that these are all basically the same prepara-
tion. Skill as a baker depends on knowledge, and being able to
exercise judgment based on that knowledge, not just on following
recipes. The ability to exercise judgment is essential in all branches
of cookery but especially so in baking, where the smallest variation
3/26/2016 9:11:22 AM
 xxii PREFACE
in procedure can produce significant changes in the finished prod-
uct. The formulas in this text will help students develop good judg-
ment by requiring them to think about the relationships between
general procedures and specific products.
Media and Supplements
WileyPLUS Learning Space to Accompany
Professional Baking
A place where students can define their strengths and nurture
their skills, WileyPLUS Learning Space transforms course content
into an online learning community. WileyPLUS Learning Space
invites students to experience learning activities, work through
self-assessment, ask questions, and share insights. As students
interact with the course content, each other, and their instructor,
WileyPLUS Learning Space creates a personalized study guide for
each student. Through collaboration, students make deeper con-
nections to the subject matter and feel part of a community.
Through a flexible course design, instructors can quickly
organize learning activities, manage student collaboration, and
customize your course—having full control over content as well
as the amount of interactivity between students.
WileyPLUS Learning Space lets the instructor:
• Assign activities and add your own materials.
• Guide your students through what’s important in the inter-
active e-textbook by easily assigning specific content.
• Set up and monitor group learning.
• Assess student engagement.
• Gain immediate insights to help inform teaching.
Defining a clear path to action, the visual reports in
WileyPLUS Learning Space help both you and your students
gauge problem areas and act on what’s most important.
Technique Videos
Detailed, engaging technique videos are available as part of the
WileyPLUS course with Professional Baking. These video clips
clearly demonstrate the essential skills and procedures students
must master to succeed in the professional bakeshop, and they
enhance, in an engaging manner, the textbook’s approach to
teaching these basic skills. They can be used for study and review
purposes to prepare for kitchen time or as a step-by-step presen-
tation of these techniques.
Math Tutor
Math Tutor whiteboard-type exercises and review are available as
part of the WileyPLUS course. These video-like segments are brief
examples of common math problems used in the bakeshop.
These videos are intended to demonstrate and reinforce bake-
shop math principles cited by instructors as the #1 issue students
struggle with in this course. These tutorials allow students to see
a variety of math exercises explained and calculated. Further,
practice exercises are included for students to use to apply and
reinforce these calculations as well.
flast.indd 22
CulinarE-Companion™ Recipe Management
Software
CulinarE-Companion™ is a web-based database of recipes from
Professional Baking. You can set up an account and have instant
access to the software, viewable from any device’s browser,
whether a laptop, desktop, tablet, or mobile device.
In addition to the recipes from the book and additional
bonus recipes, the software includes a range of useful features.
The registration code included with each copy of Professional
Baking, Seventh Edition, allows you to access this valuable asset
at no additional cost—and your account does not expire so it can
be used throughout your professional career.
Feature Highlights
• Enhanced recipe management tools: Edit, scale, view
nutritional information, convert from U.S. to metric meas-
ures and vice versa; print and share recipes. Users can also
add their own recipes and create and revise shopping lists.
• Search recipes by main ingredient, primary cooking
method, and cuisine type.
• Calculate nutritional analyses and update if an ingredient is
changed.
• My files: Organize your recipes, your images, and your vid-
eos in one location.
• Audio pronunciations: Within the extensive glossary,
CulinarE-Companion™ has over 1,000 terms with audio pro-
nunciations to make learning a snap.
• Food costing: Calculate food costs based on each ingredi-
ent’s individual cost.
• Unit conversions: Scale recipes and units of measures are
converted to the next logical unit.
• Adding new ingredients: Add new ingredients that do not
exist in CulinarE-Companion™ and they are automatically
added into the ingredient database.
• Nutritional analysis: Add ingredients to a recipe that does
not have nutritional information and select from an existing
list of ingredients with possible USDA matches so nutritional
analysis is complete.
Method Cards
As a handy reference in the kitchen, a set of six laminated Method
Cards accompanies this book. They detail mixing methods for
quick breads, cakes, cookies, and yeast doughs, as well as prepa-
ration methods for pies and pastry basics.
Additional Student and Instructor Resources
To enhance mastery of the material in Professional Baking,
Seventh Edition, the following student and instructor supple-
ments are available:
The Student Study Guide (ISBN 978-1-119-14848-7) contains
review materials, practice problems, and exercises. (Answers
to questions are included in the Instructor’s Manual.)
The Instructor’s Manual with Study Guide Solutions (available
online) includes teaching suggestions and test questions.
3/26/2016 9:11:22 AM
 PREFACE xxiii

A newly updated and revised website contains information
for the student and instructor, and is available at www.wiley.com/
college/gisslen.
PowerPoint slides are also available electronically to provide
additional support in delivering course material.
Acknowledgments
I could not have written this book without the help of a great
many people, to whom I would like to express my gratitude.
Foremost among them are the many instructors and chefs who
have corresponded with me or with my publisher over the years
since the first edition first appeared, offering criticism and sug-
gestions that have helped me improve the book. Many of them
are among the reviewers listed at the end of these acknowledg-
ments. No doubt I have inadvertently omitted some names, and
to address this oversight, I would like to thank every instructor
who has talked or written to me about this book and given me
ideas for its improvement.
In addition, I would like to offer special thanks to Jim Smith,
whose photography has been such an important part of these
texts since the first edition, and to Chefs Andy Chlebana, Rick
Forpahl, David Eisenreich, Julie Walsh, and Laurent Duchêne,
whose artistry and creativity are evident in many of the photos in
this book.
The technique videos available in WileyPLUS could not have
been accomplished so successfully without the on-air talent of Chef
Ambarush Lulay, Chef Klaus Tenbergen, Chef Melina Kelson, Chef
Lisa Brefere, and most especially, Chef Andy Chelbana. Andy’s role
in scripting, planning, executing, and ensuring each video meets the
professional kitchen standards is incalculable. Many thanks as well
to Kendall College and the College of DuPage for the gracious use of
their kitchens in the filming of many of the technique videos.
Finally, I would like to thank everyone at John Wiley and
Sons who has worked so hard on this project: James Metzger,
Wendy Ashenberg, Beth Tripmacher, Gabrielle Carrasco, Melissa
Edwards, Lynne Marsala Basche, and especially my editors,
JoAnna Turtletaub and Andrea Brescia.

Reviewers
I would like to acknowledge the fol- MARK S. COLE DAVID GIBSON MIKE JUNG
lowing instructors who contributed Del Mar College Niagara College of Applied Arts and Hennepin Technical College
to this book over seven editions by Corpus Christi, Texas Technology Brooklyn Park, Minnesota
suggesting revisions and additions. Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada
MARTHA CRAWFORD GERRINE SCHRECK KIRBY
ROBERT L. ANDERSON Johnson & Wales University KATHRYN GORDON Southeast Community College
Des Moines Area Community College Providence, Rhode Island Art Institute of New York City Lincoln, Nebraska
Ankeny, Iowa New York, New York
CHRIS CROSTHWAITE FREDERICK GLEN KNIGHT
ANNE BALDZIKOWSKI Lane Community College KRISTEN GRISSOM The Southeast Institute of Culinary
Cabrillo College Eugene, Oregon Dayton State College Arts
Aptos, California Daytona Beach, Florida St. Augustine, Florida
RICHARD EXLEY
MARY BARTON Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary JEAN HASSELL PAUL KREBS
Bunker Hill Community College Arts in Scottsdale Youngstown State University Schenectady County Community
Boston, Massachusetts Scottsdale, Arizona Youngstown, Ohio College

THOMAS BECKMAN Schenectady, New York

JOHN R. FARRIS IRIS A. HELVESTON
The Cooking and Hospitality Institute Lansing Community College State Department of Education JEFFREY C. LABARGE
of Chicago Lansing, Michigan Tallahassee, Florida Central Piedmont Community
Chicago, Illinois College
SUSAN FEEST NANCY A. HIGGIN
KARLA V. BOETEL Charlotte, North Carolina
Milwaukee Area Technical Art Institute of Atlanta
Des Moines Area Community College Atlanta, Georgia MARY LASORELLA
College Milwaukee, Wisconsin Cincinnati State University
ROGER HOLDEN
Ankeny, Iowa Cincinnati, Ohio
DOUGLAS FLICK Oakland Community College
ERIC BRECKOFF Johnson County Community Bloomfield Hills, Michigan FRED LEMEISZ
J. Sargeant Reynolds Community College St. Petersburg Vocational Technical
CARALYN HOUSE
College Overland Park, Kansas Institute
Wake Technical Community
Richmond, Virginia St. Petersburg, Florida
JOSEPH D. FORD College
BELINDA BROOKS New York Food and Hotel Raleigh, North Carolina LAUREL LESLIE
Kendall College Management Kapiolani Community College
GEORGE JACK
Chicago, Illinois New York, New York Honolulu, Hawaii
The Cooking and Hospitality Institute
ANDY CHLEBANA CARRIE FRANZEN of Chicago JANET LIGHTIZER
Joliet Junior College Le Cordon Bleu–Minneapolis Chicago, Illinois Newbury College
Joliet, Illinois Minneapolis, Minnesota Brookline, Massachusetts
JOANNE JACUS
JOANNE CLOUGHLY ROBERT J. GALLOWAY New York City College VALERIA S. MASON
SUNY Cobleskill Dunwoody Industrial Institute of Technology State Department of Education
Cobleskill, New York Minneapolis, Minnesota Brooklyn, New York Gainesville, Florida

flast.indd 23 3/26/2016 9:11:23 AM

 xxiv PREFACE

ELIZABETH MCGEEHAN WILLIAM H. PIFER PETER SCHOLTES DAVID VAGASKY

Central New Mexico Community Bellingham Technical College George Brown College Culinary Institute of Charleston at
College Bellingham, Washington Toronto, Ontario, Canada Trident Technical College
Albuquerque, New Mexico Charleston, South Carolina
GUNTER REHM GEORGE L. SOUTHWICK
JOHN OECHSNER Orange Coast College Ozarks Technical HOPE WALBURN
Art Institute of Atlanta Costa Mesa, California Community College The Art Institutes of Minnesota
Atlanta, Georgia Springfield, Missouri Minneapolis, Minnesota
KENT R. RIGBY
PHILIP PANZARINO Baltimore International SIMON STEVENSON F. H. WASKEY
New York City Technical College College Connecticut Culinary Institute University of Houston
Brooklyn, New York Baltimore, Maryland Suffield, Connecticut Houston, Texas

JAYNE PEARSON LOU SACKETT PATRICK SWEENEY J. WILLIAM WHITE

Manchester Community College Dauphin Country Technical Johnson County Pinellas County School System
Manchester, Connecticut School Community College St. Petersburg, Florida
Harrisburg, Pennsylvania Overland Park, Kansas
KENNETH PERRY RONALD ZABKIEWICZ
Le Cordon Bleu ANTHONY SARDINA CHRIS THIELMAN South Technical Education
Minneapolis, Minnesota Valencia Community College College of DuPage Center
Orlando, Florida Glen Ellyn, Illinois Boynton Beach, Florida
RICHARD PETRELLO
Withlacoochee Vocational–Technical KIMBERLY SCHENK ANDREA TUTUNJIAN
Center Diablo Valley College Institute of Culinary Education
Inverness, Florida Pleasant Hill, California New York, New York

Culinary Media Library Reviewers

MARCO ADORNETTO RODNEY DONNE WILLIAM JOLLY ELAINA RAVO
Zane State College George Brown College Clover Park Technical College Liaison College
Zanesville, Ohio Toronto, Ontario, Canada Lakewood, Washington Hamilton, Ontario, Canada

CHARLTON ALVARES COLLEN ENGLE JOHN KAPUSTA CHRIS THIELMAN

George Brown College Miami Culinary Institute Indiana University of Pennsylvania College of DuPage
Toronto, Ontario, Canada Miami, Florida Indiana, Pennsylvania Glen Ellyn, Illinois

ALAN BROWN ALBERT I. M. IMMING AMEDE LAMARCHE JEAN YVES VENDEVILLE

George Brown College Joliet Junior College George Brown College Savannah Technical College
Toronto, Ontario, Canada Joliet, Illinois Toronto, Ontario, Canada Savannah, Georgia

DEANE COBLER JOANNE JACUS ROBYNNE MAII CHRISTINE WALKER

Columbus State Community College New York City College of Technology Kingsborough Community College George Brown College
Columbus, Ohio Brooklyn, New York Brooklyn, New York Toronto, Ontario, Canada

flast.indd 24 3/26/2016 9:11:23 AM

 Wiley CulinarE-Companion™ Recipe Management Software
Supporting chefs throughout their careers, CulinarE-Companion
includes all recipes from Professional Baking, Seventh Edition,
plus bonus recipes, audio pronunciations, and illustrated
procedures. Create shopping lists, resize recipes, perform metric
conversions, and analyze nutritional content of ingredients and
recipes. You can also add your own recipes, photos, and videos,
and create your own cookbooks.
THE HOME PAGE
▶ View recipes by clicking on the Professional Baking cover.
▶ Search by recipe name, partial name, or by variation.
▶ View recipes and procedures, which are organized by kitchen
skill, by clicking in the “Skills” tab.
▶ Click “Glossary” tab to access definitions from Professional
Baking’s glossary plus hundreds of additional defined terms
and audio pronunciations.
RECIPE LIST
▶ Refine your search by course, cuisine, main ingredient, primary
cooking method, or dietary considerations.
▶ Add recipes to your shopping list, as well as export and print
recipes.
flast.indd 25
CulinarE-Companion™ is a web-based database of recipes from
Professional Baking. You can set up an account and have instant
access to the software, viewable from any device’s browser,whether
a laptop, desktop, tablet, or mobile device. The registration code
included with each copy of Professional Baking, Seventh Edition
allows you to access this valuable asset at no additional cost—and
your account does not expire so it can be used throughout your
professional career.
RECIPE SCREEN
▶ Resize recipes, perform metric conversions, show recipe notes,
variations, and more!
▶ Easily access referenced procedures and recipes by clicking the
referenced link.
▶ View photos of plated dishes and techniques: click the
“Images” tab. You can also upload your own photos and videos.
NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION
▶ View important nutritional information for ingredients and
recipes.
▶ Nutritional information calculates automatically for all recipes,
including recipes you add.
3/28/2016 4:23:39 PM
 A personalized, adaptive
learning experience.
WileyPLUS with ORION delivers easy-to-use analytics that help
educators and students see strengths and weaknesses to give learners
the best chance of succeeding in the course.

Photo credit: Monkey Business Images/Shutterstock

Identify which students Help students organize Measure outcomes

are struggling early in the
semester.
Educators assess the real-time
engagement and performance of
each student to inform teaching
decisions. Students always know
what they need to work on.
their learning and get the
practice they need.
With ORION’s adaptive practice,
students quickly understand
what they know and don’t know.
They can then decide to study or
practice Eased on their proȴciency.
to promote continuous
improvement.
With visual reports, it’s easy for
both students and educators to
gauge problem areas and act on
what’s most important.

www.ORION.wileyplus.com

flast.indd 26 3/26/2016 9:11:27 AM

 P R O F E S S I O N A L

BAKING

flast.indd 27 3/26/2016 9:11:27 AM

Gisslen-c01.indd 2 5/6/2016 3:59:19 PM
 1
THE BAKING PROFESSION

AFTER READING THIS CHAPTER, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO:

1. Describe the major events in the history of baking, from prehistoric times to the present.
2. Describe various types of baking and pastry careers and the attitudes needed to be
successful in them.

BAKING IS ONE of the oldest occupations of the human race. Since early prehistoric

human beings made the transition from nomadic hunters to settled gatherers and

farmers, grains have been the most important foods to sustain human life, often

nearly the only foods. The profession that today includes baking artisan sour-

dough breads and assembling elegant pastries and desserts began thousands of

years ago with the harvesting of wild grass seeds and the grinding of those seeds

between stones.

Today, the professions of baker and pastry chef are growing quickly and changing

rapidly. Thousands of skilled people are needed every year. Baking offers ambi-

tious men and women the opportunity to find satisfying work in an industry that

is both challenging and rewarding.

Gisslen-c01.indd 3 5/6/2016 3:59:50 PM

 4 C H A P T E R 1 THE BAKING PROFESSION

Before you start your practical studies, which are covered in this book, it is good to first
learn a little about the profession you are entering. Therefore, this chapter gives you a
brief overview of baking professions, including how they got to where they are today.

BAKING: HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

GRAINS HAVE BEEN the most important staple foods in the human diet since prehistoric times,
so it is only a slight exaggeration to say that baking is almost as old as the human race.

The First Grain Foods

Before human beings learned to plant, they gathered wild foods. The seeds of various wild
grasses, the ancestors of modern grains, were rich in nutrients and valued by prehistoric peoples
as important foods. These seeds, unlike modern grains, had husks that clung tightly to them.
People learned that by toasting the seeds, probably on hot rocks, they could loosen the husks
and then remove them by beating the seeds with wooden tools.
The early development of grain foods took place mostly in the eastern Mediterranean
regions, where, it seems, wild grains were especially abundant.
Few cooking utensils were in use at this point in human history, so it is probable that the
earliest grain preparation involved toasting dry grains, pounding them to a meal with rocks, and
mixing the meal to a paste with water. The grains had already been cooked by toasting them, to
remove the husks, so the paste needed no further cooking. Later, it was discovered that some of
this paste, if laid on a hot stone next to a fire, turned into a flatbread that was a little more appe-
tizing than the plain paste. Unleavened flatbreads, such as tortillas, are still important foods in
many cultures. Unleavened flatbreads made from grain pastes are the first stage in the develop-
ment of breads as we know them.
To understand how breads evolved, you must also understand a little about how grains
developed. As you will learn in Chapter 4, modern yeast breads depend on a combination of cer-
tain proteins to give them their structure. For all practical purposes, only wheat and its relatives
contain enough of these proteins, which form an elastic substance called gluten. A few other
grains also contain gluten proteins, but they do not form as strong a structure as wheat gluten.
Further, the proteins must be raw in order to form gluten. Because the earliest wild grains
had to be heated to free them from their husks, they could be used only to make grain pastes or
porridges, not true breads. Over time, prehistoric people learned to plant seeds; eventually, they
planted only seeds of plants whose seeds were easiest to process. As a result, hybrid varieties
emerged whose husks could be removed without heating the grains. Without this advancement,
modern breads could not have come about.

Ancient Leavened Breads

A grain paste left to stand for a time sooner or later collects wild yeasts (microscopic organisms
that produce carbon dioxide gas) from the air, and begins to ferment. This was, no doubt, the
beginning of leavened (or raised) bread, although for most of human history the presence of yeast
was mostly accidental. Eventually, people learned they could save a small part of the current
day’s dough to leaven the next day’s batch.
Small flat or mounded cakes made of a grain paste, whether leavened or unleavened, could
be cooked on a hot rock or other hot, flat surface, or they could be covered and set near a fire or
in the embers of a fire. The ancient Egyptians developed the art of cooking leavened doughs in
molds—the first loaf pans. The molds were heated and then filled with dough, covered, and
stacked in a heated chamber. These were perhaps the first mass-produced breads. Breads made
from wheat flour were costly and so affordable for only the wealthy. Most people ate bread made
from barley and other grains.
By the time of the ancient Greeks, about 500 or 600 BCE, true enclosed ovens were in use.
These ovens were preheated by building a fire inside them. They had a door in the front that could
be closed, so they could be loaded and unloaded without losing much heat.

Gisslen-c01.indd 4 5/6/2016 3:59:51 PM

 BAKING: HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 5

Still, for the most part, the breads baked in these ovens were nothing more than cakes of
baked grain pastes mixed with a little of the paste from the day before to supply wild yeasts for
leavening. Such flat or slightly mounded breads were called maza. Maza, especially those made
of barley, were the staple food of the time. In fact, in ancient Greece, all foods were divided into
two categories, maza and opson, meaning things eaten with maza. Opson included vegetables,
cheese, fish, meat, or anything else except bread. Often the opson was placed on top of the flat
bread, forming the ancestors of modern pizzas.
Writings from ancient Greece describe as many as 80 kinds of bread and other baked grain
products originated by professional bakers. Some of these could be called true breads, rather
than flatbreads or maza, because they were made with kneaded doughs containing wheat flour,
which provided gluten proteins.
Several centuries later, the ancient Romans were slow to develop breads. Not until master
bakers arrived from Greece did grain foods advance much beyond porridges and simple flat-
breads. By the latter period of the Roman Empire, however, baking was an important industry.
Bakeshops were often run by immigrant Greeks.
An important innovation in Roman baking was introduced by the Gauls, a European peo-
ple who had been conquered by the Romans. The Gauls, the ancestors of the modern French,
had invented beer making. They discovered that adding the froth from beer to bread dough
made especially light, well-leavened breads. The froth contained yeast from beer fermenta-
tion, so this process marked the beginning of the use of a controlled yeast source for making
bread doughs.
Many of the products made by Roman bakers contained quantities of honey and oil, so these
foods might more properly be called pastries rather than breads. That the primary fat available
was oil placed a limit on the kinds of pastries that could be made, however. Only a solid fat such
as butter enables the pastry maker to produce the kinds of stiff doughs we are familiar with today,
such as pie doughs and short pastries.

Baking in the Middle Ages

After the collapse of the Roman Empire, baking as a profession almost disappeared. Not until the
latter part of the Middle Ages did baking and pastry making begin to reappear as important pro-
fessions in the service of the nobility. Bread baking continued to be performed by professional
bakers, not homemakers, because it required ovens that needed almost constant tending. And
because of the risk of fire, baking ovens were usually separated from other buildings, and often
outside city walls.
In much of Europe, tending ovens and making bread dough were separate operations. The
oven tender maintained the oven, heated it properly, and supervised the baking of the loaves
that were brought to him. In early years, the oven may not have been near the workshops of the
bakers, and one oven typically served the needs of several bakers. It is interesting to note that in
many bakeries today, especially in the larger ones, this division of labor still exists. The chef who
tends the ovens bakes the proofed breads and other products that are brought to him or her and
may not have any part in the mixing and makeup of these products.
Throughout the Middle Ages, one of the bread maker’s tasks was sifting, or bolting, the
whole-grain flour that was brought to him by customers. Sifting with coarse sieves removed only
part of the bran, while sifting with finer sieves removed most or all of the bran and made whiter
flour. More of the grain is removed to make white flour, so the yield was lower and, thus, white
bread was more expensive, putting it out of reach of ordinary people. Not until around 1650 CE
did bakers start buying sifted flour from mills.
Because bread was the most important food of the time, many laws were passed during this
period to regulate production factors such as bolting yields, bread ingredients, and loaf sizes. It
was also in the Middle Ages that bakers and pastry chefs in France formed guilds to protect and
advance their art. Regulations prohibited all but certified bakers from baking bread for sale, and
the guilds had the power to limit certification to their own members. The guilds, as well as the
apprenticeship system, which was well established by the sixteenth century, also provided a way
to pass the knowledge of the baker’s trade from generation to generation.
To become master bakers, workers had to go through a course of apprenticeship and obtain
a certificate stating they had gained the necessary skills. Certified master bakers could then set
up their own shops. Master bakers were assisted by apprentices, who were learning the trade and

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 6 C H A P T E R 1 THE BAKING PROFESSION

so were not paid, and by journeymen, who were paid servants and who may have completed an
apprenticeship but had not gained a master baker’s certificate.

Sugar and Pastry Making

Bakers also made cakes from doughs or batters containing honey or other sweet ingredients,
such as dried fruits. Many of these items had religious significance and were baked only for spe-
cial occasions, such as the Twelfth Night cakes baked after Christmas. Such products nearly
always had a dense texture, unlike the light confections we call cakes today. Nonsweetened pas-
try doughs were also made for such products as meat pies.
In the 1400s, pastry chefs in France formed their own corporations and took control over
pastry making from bakers. From this point on, the profession of pastry making developed rap-
idly, and bakers invented many new kinds of pastry products.
Honey was the most important sweetener at the time because, for Europeans, sugar was a
rare and expensive luxury item. Sugarcane, the source of refined sugar, was native to India and
grown in southern regions of Asia. To be brought to Europe, sugar had to pass through many
countries, and each overland stop added taxes and tolls to its already high price.
The European arrival in the Americas in 1492 sparked a revolution in pastry making. The
Caribbean islands proved ideal for growing sugar, which led to increased supply and lower
prices. Cocoa and chocolate, native to the New World, also became available in the Old World
for the first time. Once these new ingredients became widely accessible, baking and pastry
became more and more sophisticated, and many new recipes were developed. By the seven-
teenth and eighteenth centuries, many of the basic pastries we know today, including lami-
nated or layered doughs like puff pastry and Danish dough, were being made. Also in the
eighteenth century, processors learned how to refine sugar from sugar beets. At last, Europeans
could grow sugar locally.

From the First Restaurants to Carême

Modern food service is said to have begun shortly after the middle of the eighteenth century. Just
as bakers and pastry cooks had to be licensed, and became members of guilds, which controlled
production, so too did caterers, roasters, pork butchers, and other food workers become licensed
members of guilds. For an innkeeper to be able to serve meals to guests, for example, he had to
buy the various menu items from those operations that were licensed to provide them. Guests
had little or no choice. They simply ate what was offered for that meal.

Portrait of Marie-Antoine Carême, from

M.A. Carême. L’art de la cuisine française
au dix-neuvième siècle. Traité
élémentaire et pratique, 1833.
Division of Rare and Manuscript Collections,
Cornell University Library.

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 BAKING: HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 7

In 1765, a Parisian named A. Boulanger (whose name, incidentally, means “bread baker”)
began advertising on his shop sign that he served soups, which he called “restaurants,” or “restor-
atives.” (The word “restaurant” comes from the French restaurer, “to restore.”) According to the
story, one of the dishes he served was sheep’s feet in a cream sauce. The guild of stew makers
challenged him in court, but Boulanger won by claiming he didn’t stew the feet in the sauce but
served them with the sauce. In challenging the rules of the guilds, Boulanger changed the course
of food service history.
For the bread baker, two important events during this period were the publication of the first
major books on bread making: L’art du meunier, du boulanger et du vermicellier (The Art of the
Miller, the Bread Baker, and the Pasta Maker) by Paul-Jacques Malouin in 1775, and Le parfait bou-
langer (The Perfect Bread Baker) by Antoine-Augustin Parmentier in 1778.
The nineteenth century saw not just a revolution in food service but also in the development
of modern baking as we know it. After the French Revolution in 1789, many bakers and pastry
cooks who had been servants in the houses of the nobility started independent businesses.
Artisans competed for customers with the quality of their products, and the general public—not
just aristocrats and the well-to-do—were able to buy fine pastries. Some of the pastry shops
started during this time are still serving Parisians today.
An invention in the eighteenth century forever changed the organization of the commercial
kitchen, which to date had been centered round an open cooking fire. This invention was the stove,
which provided a more controllable heat source. In time, commercial kitchens were divided
into three departments, each based on a piece of equipment: the stove, run by the cook, or
cuisinier; the rotisserie, run by the meat chef, or rôtisseur; and the oven, run by the pastry chef,
or pâtissier. The pastry chef and the meat chef reported to the cuisinier, who was also known as
chef de cuisine, which means “head of the kitchen.” Although the stovetop was a new feature of this
reorganized kitchen, the baker’s oven was still the wood-fired brick oven that had long been in use.
The most famous chef of the early nineteenth century was Marie-Antoine Carême, also
known as Antonin Carême, who lived from 1784 to 1833. His spectacular constructions of sugar
and pastry earned him great fame, and he elevated the professions of cook and pastry chef to
respected positions. Carême’s book, Le pâtissier royal, was one of the first systematic explana-
tions of the pastry chef’s art.
Ironically, most of Carême’s career was spent in the service of the nobility and royalty, in
an era when the products of the bakers’ and pastry chefs’ craft were becoming more widely
available to average citizens. Carême had little to do with the commercial and retail aspects
of baking.
In spite of his achievements and fame as a pastry chef, Carême was not primarily a baker, but
a chef de cuisine. As a young man, he learned all the branches of cooking quickly, and he dedi-
cated his career to refining and organizing culinary techniques. His many books contain the first
systematic account of cooking principles, recipes, and menu making.

Modern Baking and Modern Technology

The nineteenth century was a time of great technical progress in the baking profession.
Automated processes enabled bakers to do many tasks with machines that once required a
great deal of manual labor. The most important of these technological advances was the devel-
opment of roller milling. Prior to this time, flour was milled by grinding grain between two
stones. The resulting flour then had to be sifted, or bolted, often numerous times, to separate
the bran. The process was slow. Roller milling, described in Chapter 4 (see page 55), proved to
be much faster and more efficient. This was a tremendous boost to the baking industry.
Another important development of the period was the availability of new flours from the
wheat-growing regions of North America. These wheat varieties were higher in protein than those
that could be grown in northern Europe, and their export to Europe promoted the large-scale
production of white bread.
In the twentieth century, advances in technology, from refrigeration to sophisticated ovens
to air transportation that can carry fresh ingredients around the world, contributed immeasura-
bly to baking and pastry making. Similarly, preservation techniques have helped make available
and affordable some ingredients that were once rare and expensive. Also, thanks to modern food

Gisslen-c01.indd 7 5/6/2016 4:00:01 PM

Another random document with
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 DANCE ON STILTS AT THE GIRLS’ UNYAGO, NIUCHI

Newala, too, suffers from the distance of its water-supply—at least

the Newala of to-day does; there was once another Newala in a lovely
valley at the foot of the plateau. I visited it and found scarcely a trace
of houses, only a Christian cemetery, with the graves of several
missionaries and their converts, remaining as a monument of its
former glories. But the surroundings are wonderfully beautiful. A
thick grove of splendid mango-trees closes in the weather-worn
crosses and headstones; behind them, combining the useful and the
agreeable, is a whole plantation of lemon-trees covered with ripe
fruit; not the small African kind, but a much larger and also juicier
imported variety, which drops into the hands of the passing traveller,
without calling for any exertion on his part. Old Newala is now under
the jurisdiction of the native pastor, Daudi, at Chingulungulu, who,
as I am on very friendly terms with him, allows me, as a matter of
course, the use of this lemon-grove during my stay at Newala.
 FEET MUTILATED BY THE RAVAGES OF THE “JIGGER”
(Sarcopsylla penetrans)

The water-supply of New Newala is in the bottom of the valley,

some 1,600 feet lower down. The way is not only long and fatiguing,
but the water, when we get it, is thoroughly bad. We are suffering not
only from this, but from the fact that the arrangements at Newala are
nothing short of luxurious. We have a separate kitchen—a hut built
against the boma palisade on the right of the baraza, the interior of
which is not visible from our usual position. Our two cooks were not
long in finding this out, and they consequently do—or rather neglect
to do—what they please. In any case they do not seem to be very
particular about the boiling of our drinking-water—at least I can
attribute to no other cause certain attacks of a dysenteric nature,
from which both Knudsen and I have suffered for some time. If a
man like Omari has to be left unwatched for a moment, he is capable
of anything. Besides this complaint, we are inconvenienced by the
state of our nails, which have become as hard as glass, and crack on
the slightest provocation, and I have the additional infliction of
pimples all over me. As if all this were not enough, we have also, for
the last week been waging war against the jigger, who has found his
Eldorado in the hot sand of the Makonde plateau. Our men are seen
all day long—whenever their chronic colds and the dysentery likewise
raging among them permit—occupied in removing this scourge of
Africa from their feet and trying to prevent the disastrous
consequences of its presence. It is quite common to see natives of
this place with one or two toes missing; many have lost all their toes,
or even the whole front part of the foot, so that a well-formed leg
ends in a shapeless stump. These ravages are caused by the female of
Sarcopsylla penetrans, which bores its way under the skin and there
develops an egg-sac the size of a pea. In all books on the subject, it is
stated that one’s attention is called to the presence of this parasite by
an intolerable itching. This agrees very well with my experience, so
far as the softer parts of the sole, the spaces between and under the
toes, and the side of the foot are concerned, but if the creature
penetrates through the harder parts of the heel or ball of the foot, it
may escape even the most careful search till it has reached maturity.
Then there is no time to be lost, if the horrible ulceration, of which
we see cases by the dozen every day, is to be prevented. It is much
easier, by the way, to discover the insect on the white skin of a
European than on that of a native, on which the dark speck scarcely
shows. The four or five jiggers which, in spite of the fact that I
constantly wore high laced boots, chose my feet to settle in, were
taken out for me by the all-accomplished Knudsen, after which I
thought it advisable to wash out the cavities with corrosive
sublimate. The natives have a different sort of disinfectant—they fill
the hole with scraped roots. In a tiny Makua village on the slope of
the plateau south of Newala, we saw an old woman who had filled all
the spaces under her toe-nails with powdered roots by way of
prophylactic treatment. What will be the result, if any, who can say?
The rest of the many trifling ills which trouble our existence are
really more comic than serious. In the absence of anything else to
smoke, Knudsen and I at last opened a box of cigars procured from
the Indian store-keeper at Lindi, and tried them, with the most
distressing results. Whether they contain opium or some other
narcotic, neither of us can say, but after the tenth puff we were both
“off,” three-quarters stupefied and unspeakably wretched. Slowly we
recovered—and what happened next? Half-an-hour later we were
once more smoking these poisonous concoctions—so insatiable is the
craving for tobacco in the tropics.
Even my present attacks of fever scarcely deserve to be taken
seriously. I have had no less than three here at Newala, all of which
have run their course in an incredibly short time. In the early
afternoon, I am busy with my old natives, asking questions and
making notes. The strong midday coffee has stimulated my spirits to
an extraordinary degree, the brain is active and vigorous, and work
progresses rapidly, while a pleasant warmth pervades the whole
body. Suddenly this gives place to a violent chill, forcing me to put on
my overcoat, though it is only half-past three and the afternoon sun
is at its hottest. Now the brain no longer works with such acuteness
and logical precision; more especially does it fail me in trying to
establish the syntax of the difficult Makua language on which I have
ventured, as if I had not enough to do without it. Under the
circumstances it seems advisable to take my temperature, and I do
so, to save trouble, without leaving my seat, and while going on with
my work. On examination, I find it to be 101·48°. My tutors are
abruptly dismissed and my bed set up in the baraza; a few minutes
later I am in it and treating myself internally with hot water and
lemon-juice.
Three hours later, the thermometer marks nearly 104°, and I make
them carry me back into the tent, bed and all, as I am now perspiring
heavily, and exposure to the cold wind just beginning to blow might
mean a fatal chill. I lie still for a little while, and then find, to my
great relief, that the temperature is not rising, but rather falling. This
is about 7.30 p.m. At 8 p.m. I find, to my unbounded astonishment,
that it has fallen below 98·6°, and I feel perfectly well. I read for an
hour or two, and could very well enjoy a smoke, if I had the
wherewithal—Indian cigars being out of the question.
Having no medical training, I am at a loss to account for this state
of things. It is impossible that these transitory attacks of high fever
should be malarial; it seems more probable that they are due to a
kind of sunstroke. On consulting my note-book, I become more and
more inclined to think this is the case, for these attacks regularly
follow extreme fatigue and long exposure to strong sunshine. They at
least have the advantage of being only short interruptions to my
work, as on the following morning I am always quite fresh and fit.
My treasure of a cook is suffering from an enormous hydrocele which
makes it difficult for him to get up, and Moritz is obliged to keep in
the dark on account of his inflamed eyes. Knudsen’s cook, a raw boy
from somewhere in the bush, knows still less of cooking than Omari;
consequently Nils Knudsen himself has been promoted to the vacant
post. Finding that we had come to the end of our supplies, he began
by sending to Chingulungulu for the four sucking-pigs which we had
bought from Matola and temporarily left in his charge; and when
they came up, neatly packed in a large crate, he callously slaughtered
the biggest of them. The first joint we were thoughtless enough to
entrust for roasting to Knudsen’s mshenzi cook, and it was
consequently uneatable; but we made the rest of the animal into a
jelly which we ate with great relish after weeks of underfeeding,
consuming incredible helpings of it at both midday and evening
meals. The only drawback is a certain want of variety in the tinned
vegetables. Dr. Jäger, to whom the Geographical Commission
entrusted the provisioning of the expeditions—mine as well as his
own—because he had more time on his hands than the rest of us,
seems to have laid in a huge stock of Teltow turnips,[46] an article of
food which is all very well for occasional use, but which quickly palls
when set before one every day; and we seem to have no other tins
left. There is no help for it—we must put up with the turnips; but I
am certain that, once I am home again, I shall not touch them for ten
years to come.
Amid all these minor evils, which, after all, go to make up the
genuine flavour of Africa, there is at least one cheering touch:
Knudsen has, with the dexterity of a skilled mechanic, repaired my 9
× 12 cm. camera, at least so far that I can use it with a little care.
How, in the absence of finger-nails, he was able to accomplish such a
ticklish piece of work, having no tool but a clumsy screw-driver for
taking to pieces and putting together again the complicated
mechanism of the instantaneous shutter, is still a mystery to me; but
he did it successfully. The loss of his finger-nails shows him in a light
contrasting curiously enough with the intelligence evinced by the
above operation; though, after all, it is scarcely surprising after his
ten years’ residence in the bush. One day, at Lindi, he had occasion
to wash a dog, which must have been in need of very thorough
cleansing, for the bottle handed to our friend for the purpose had an
extremely strong smell. Having performed his task in the most
conscientious manner, he perceived with some surprise that the dog
did not appear much the better for it, and was further surprised by
finding his own nails ulcerating away in the course of the next few
days. “How was I to know that carbolic acid has to be diluted?” he
mutters indignantly, from time to time, with a troubled gaze at his
mutilated finger-tips.
 Since we came to Newala we have been making excursions in all
directions through the surrounding country, in accordance with old
habit, and also because the akida Sefu did not get together the tribal
elders from whom I wanted information so speedily as he had
promised. There is, however, no harm done, as, even if seen only
from the outside, the country and people are interesting enough.
The Makonde plateau is like a large rectangular table rounded off
at the corners. Measured from the Indian Ocean to Newala, it is
about seventy-five miles long, and between the Rovuma and the
Lukuledi it averages fifty miles in breadth, so that its superficial area
is about two-thirds of that of the kingdom of Saxony. The surface,
however, is not level, but uniformly inclined from its south-western
edge to the ocean. From the upper edge, on which Newala lies, the
eye ranges for many miles east and north-east, without encountering
any obstacle, over the Makonde bush. It is a green sea, from which
here and there thick clouds of smoke rise, to show that it, too, is
inhabited by men who carry on their tillage like so many other
primitive peoples, by cutting down and burning the bush, and
manuring with the ashes. Even in the radiant light of a tropical day
such a fire is a grand sight.
Much less effective is the impression produced just now by the
great western plain as seen from the edge of the plateau. As often as
time permits, I stroll along this edge, sometimes in one direction,
sometimes in another, in the hope of finding the air clear enough to
let me enjoy the view; but I have always been disappointed.
Wherever one looks, clouds of smoke rise from the burning bush,
and the air is full of smoke and vapour. It is a pity, for under more
favourable circumstances the panorama of the whole country up to
the distant Majeje hills must be truly magnificent. It is of little use
taking photographs now, and an outline sketch gives a very poor idea
of the scenery. In one of these excursions I went out of my way to
make a personal attempt on the Makonde bush. The present edge of
the plateau is the result of a far-reaching process of destruction
through erosion and denudation. The Makonde strata are
everywhere cut into by ravines, which, though short, are hundreds of
yards in depth. In consequence of the loose stratification of these
beds, not only are the walls of these ravines nearly vertical, but their
upper end is closed by an equally steep escarpment, so that the
western edge of the Makonde plateau is hemmed in by a series of
deep, basin-like valleys. In order to get from one side of such a ravine
to the other, I cut my way through the bush with a dozen of my men.
It was a very open part, with more grass than scrub, but even so the
short stretch of less than two hundred yards was very hard work; at
the end of it the men’s calicoes were in rags and they themselves
bleeding from hundreds of scratches, while even our strong khaki
suits had not escaped scatheless.

NATIVE PATH THROUGH THE MAKONDE BUSH, NEAR

MAHUTA

I see increasing reason to believe that the view formed some time
back as to the origin of the Makonde bush is the correct one. I have
no doubt that it is not a natural product, but the result of human
occupation. Those parts of the high country where man—as a very
slight amount of practice enables the eye to perceive at once—has not
yet penetrated with axe and hoe, are still occupied by a splendid
timber forest quite able to sustain a comparison with our mixed
forests in Germany. But wherever man has once built his hut or tilled
his field, this horrible bush springs up. Every phase of this process
may be seen in the course of a couple of hours’ walk along the main
road. From the bush to right or left, one hears the sound of the axe—
not from one spot only, but from several directions at once. A few
steps further on, we can see what is taking place. The brush has been
cut down and piled up in heaps to the height of a yard or more,
between which the trunks of the large trees stand up like the last
pillars of a magnificent ruined building. These, too, present a
melancholy spectacle: the destructive Makonde have ringed them—
cut a broad strip of bark all round to ensure their dying off—and also
piled up pyramids of brush round them. Father and son, mother and
son-in-law, are chopping away perseveringly in the background—too
busy, almost, to look round at the white stranger, who usually excites
so much interest. If you pass by the same place a week later, the piles
of brushwood have disappeared and a thick layer of ashes has taken
the place of the green forest. The large trees stretch their
smouldering trunks and branches in dumb accusation to heaven—if
they have not already fallen and been more or less reduced to ashes,
perhaps only showing as a white stripe on the dark ground.
This work of destruction is carried out by the Makonde alike on the
virgin forest and on the bush which has sprung up on sites already
cultivated and deserted. In the second case they are saved the trouble
of burning the large trees, these being entirely absent in the
secondary bush.
After burning this piece of forest ground and loosening it with the
hoe, the native sows his corn and plants his vegetables. All over the
country, he goes in for bed-culture, which requires, and, in fact,
receives, the most careful attention. Weeds are nowhere tolerated in
the south of German East Africa. The crops may fail on the plains,
where droughts are frequent, but never on the plateau with its
abundant rains and heavy dews. Its fortunate inhabitants even have
the satisfaction of seeing the proud Wayao and Wamakua working
for them as labourers, driven by hunger to serve where they were
accustomed to rule.
But the light, sandy soil is soon exhausted, and would yield no
harvest the second year if cultivated twice running. This fact has
been familiar to the native for ages; consequently he provides in
time, and, while his crop is growing, prepares the next plot with axe
and firebrand. Next year he plants this with his various crops and
lets the first piece lie fallow. For a short time it remains waste and
desolate; then nature steps in to repair the destruction wrought by
man; a thousand new growths spring out of the exhausted soil, and
even the old stumps put forth fresh shoots. Next year the new growth
is up to one’s knees, and in a few years more it is that terrible,
impenetrable bush, which maintains its position till the black
occupier of the land has made the round of all the available sites and
come back to his starting point.
The Makonde are, body and soul, so to speak, one with this bush.
According to my Yao informants, indeed, their name means nothing
else but “bush people.” Their own tradition says that they have been
settled up here for a very long time, but to my surprise they laid great
stress on an original immigration. Their old homes were in the
south-east, near Mikindani and the mouth of the Rovuma, whence
their peaceful forefathers were driven by the continual raids of the
Sakalavas from Madagascar and the warlike Shirazis[47] of the coast,
to take refuge on the almost inaccessible plateau. I have studied
African ethnology for twenty years, but the fact that changes of
population in this apparently quiet and peaceable corner of the earth
could have been occasioned by outside enterprises taking place on
the high seas, was completely new to me. It is, no doubt, however,
correct.
The charming tribal legend of the Makonde—besides informing us
of other interesting matters—explains why they have to live in the
thickest of the bush and a long way from the edge of the plateau,
instead of making their permanent homes beside the purling brooks
and springs of the low country.
“The place where the tribe originated is Mahuta, on the southern
side of the plateau towards the Rovuma, where of old time there was
nothing but thick bush. Out of this bush came a man who never
washed himself or shaved his head, and who ate and drank but little.
He went out and made a human figure from the wood of a tree
growing in the open country, which he took home to his abode in the
bush and there set it upright. In the night this image came to life and
was a woman. The man and woman went down together to the
Rovuma to wash themselves. Here the woman gave birth to a still-
born child. They left that place and passed over the high land into the
valley of the Mbemkuru, where the woman had another child, which
was also born dead. Then they returned to the high bush country of
Mahuta, where the third child was born, which lived and grew up. In
course of time, the couple had many more children, and called
themselves Wamatanda. These were the ancestral stock of the
Makonde, also called Wamakonde,[48] i.e., aborigines. Their
forefather, the man from the bush, gave his children the command to
bury their dead upright, in memory of the mother of their race who
was cut out of wood and awoke to life when standing upright. He also
warned them against settling in the valleys and near large streams,
for sickness and death dwelt there. They were to make it a rule to
have their huts at least an hour’s walk from the nearest watering-
place; then their children would thrive and escape illness.”
The explanation of the name Makonde given by my informants is
somewhat different from that contained in the above legend, which I
extract from a little book (small, but packed with information), by
Pater Adams, entitled Lindi und sein Hinterland. Otherwise, my
results agree exactly with the statements of the legend. Washing?
Hapana—there is no such thing. Why should they do so? As it is, the
supply of water scarcely suffices for cooking and drinking; other
people do not wash, so why should the Makonde distinguish himself
by such needless eccentricity? As for shaving the head, the short,
woolly crop scarcely needs it,[49] so the second ancestral precept is
likewise easy enough to follow. Beyond this, however, there is
nothing ridiculous in the ancestor’s advice. I have obtained from
various local artists a fairly large number of figures carved in wood,
ranging from fifteen to twenty-three inches in height, and
representing women belonging to the great group of the Mavia,
Makonde, and Matambwe tribes. The carving is remarkably well
done and renders the female type with great accuracy, especially the
keloid ornamentation, to be described later on. As to the object and
meaning of their works the sculptors either could or (more probably)
would tell me nothing, and I was forced to content myself with the
scanty information vouchsafed by one man, who said that the figures
were merely intended to represent the nembo—the artificial
deformations of pelele, ear-discs, and keloids. The legend recorded
by Pater Adams places these figures in a new light. They must surely
be more than mere dolls; and we may even venture to assume that
they are—though the majority of present-day Makonde are probably
unaware of the fact—representations of the tribal ancestress.
 The references in the legend to the descent from Mahuta to the
Rovuma, and to a journey across the highlands into the Mbekuru
valley, undoubtedly indicate the previous history of the tribe, the
travels of the ancestral pair typifying the migrations of their
descendants. The descent to the neighbouring Rovuma valley, with
its extraordinary fertility and great abundance of game, is intelligible
at a glance—but the crossing of the Lukuledi depression, the ascent
to the Rondo Plateau and the descent to the Mbemkuru, also lie
within the bounds of probability, for all these districts have exactly
the same character as the extreme south. Now, however, comes a
point of especial interest for our bacteriological age. The primitive
Makonde did not enjoy their lives in the marshy river-valleys.
Disease raged among them, and many died. It was only after they
had returned to their original home near Mahuta, that the health
conditions of these people improved. We are very apt to think of the
African as a stupid person whose ignorance of nature is only equalled
by his fear of it, and who looks on all mishaps as caused by evil
spirits and malignant natural powers. It is much more correct to
assume in this case that the people very early learnt to distinguish
districts infested with malaria from those where it is absent.
This knowledge is crystallized in the
ancestral warning against settling in the
valleys and near the great waters, the
dwelling-places of disease and death. At the
same time, for security against the hostile
Mavia south of the Rovuma, it was enacted
that every settlement must be not less than a
certain distance from the southern edge of the
plateau. Such in fact is their mode of life at the
present day. It is not such a bad one, and
certainly they are both safer and more
comfortable than the Makua, the recent
intruders from the south, who have made USUAL METHOD OF
good their footing on the western edge of the CLOSING HUT-DOOR
plateau, extending over a fairly wide belt of
country. Neither Makua nor Makonde show in their dwellings
anything of the size and comeliness of the Yao houses in the plain,
especially at Masasi, Chingulungulu and Zuza’s. Jumbe Chauro, a
Makonde hamlet not far from Newala, on the road to Mahuta, is the
most important settlement of the tribe I have yet seen, and has fairly
spacious huts. But how slovenly is their construction compared with
the palatial residences of the elephant-hunters living in the plain.
The roofs are still more untidy than in the general run of huts during
the dry season, the walls show here and there the scanty beginnings
or the lamentable remains of the mud plastering, and the interior is a
veritable dog-kennel; dirt, dust and disorder everywhere. A few huts
only show any attempt at division into rooms, and this consists
merely of very roughly-made bamboo partitions. In one point alone
have I noticed any indication of progress—in the method of fastening
the door. Houses all over the south are secured in a simple but
ingenious manner. The door consists of a set of stout pieces of wood
or bamboo, tied with bark-string to two cross-pieces, and moving in
two grooves round one of the door-posts, so as to open inwards. If
the owner wishes to leave home, he takes two logs as thick as a man’s
upper arm and about a yard long. One of these is placed obliquely
against the middle of the door from the inside, so as to form an angle
of from 60° to 75° with the ground. He then places the second piece
horizontally across the first, pressing it downward with all his might.
It is kept in place by two strong posts planted in the ground a few
inches inside the door. This fastening is absolutely safe, but of course
cannot be applied to both doors at once, otherwise how could the
owner leave or enter his house? I have not yet succeeded in finding
out how the back door is fastened.

MAKONDE LOCK AND KEY AT JUMBE CHAURO

 This is the general way of closing a house. The Makonde at Jumbe
Chauro, however, have a much more complicated, solid and original
one. Here, too, the door is as already described, except that there is
only one post on the inside, standing by itself about six inches from
one side of the doorway. Opposite this post is a hole in the wall just
large enough to admit a man’s arm. The door is closed inside by a
large wooden bolt passing through a hole in this post and pressing
with its free end against the door. The other end has three holes into
which fit three pegs running in vertical grooves inside the post. The
door is opened with a wooden key about a foot long, somewhat
curved and sloped off at the butt; the other end has three pegs
corresponding to the holes, in the bolt, so that, when it is thrust
through the hole in the wall and inserted into the rectangular
opening in the post, the pegs can be lifted and the bolt drawn out.[50]

MODE OF INSERTING THE KEY

With no small pride first one householder and then a second

showed me on the spot the action of this greatest invention of the
Makonde Highlands. To both with an admiring exclamation of
“Vizuri sana!” (“Very fine!”). I expressed the wish to take back these
marvels with me to Ulaya, to show the Wazungu what clever fellows
the Makonde are. Scarcely five minutes after my return to camp at
Newala, the two men came up sweating under the weight of two
heavy logs which they laid down at my feet, handing over at the same
time the keys of the fallen fortress. Arguing, logically enough, that if
the key was wanted, the lock would be wanted with it, they had taken
their axes and chopped down the posts—as it never occurred to them
to dig them out of the ground and so bring them intact. Thus I have
two badly damaged specimens, and the owners, instead of praise,
come in for a blowing-up.
The Makua huts in the environs of Newala are especially
miserable; their more than slovenly construction reminds one of the
temporary erections of the Makua at Hatia’s, though the people here
have not been concerned in a war. It must therefore be due to
congenital idleness, or else to the absence of a powerful chief. Even
the baraza at Mlipa’s, a short hour’s walk south-east of Newala,
shares in this general neglect. While public buildings in this country
are usually looked after more or less carefully, this is in evident
danger of being blown over by the first strong easterly gale. The only
attractive object in this whole district is the grave of the late chief
Mlipa. I visited it in the morning, while the sun was still trying with
partial success to break through the rolling mists, and the circular
grove of tall euphorbias, which, with a broken pot, is all that marks
the old king’s resting-place, impressed one with a touch of pathos.
Even my very materially-minded carriers seemed to feel something
of the sort, for instead of their usual ribald songs, they chanted
solemnly, as we marched on through the dense green of the Makonde
bush:—
 “We shall arrive with the great master; we stand in a row and have
no fear about getting our food and our money from the Serkali (the
Government). We are not afraid; we are going along with the great
master, the lion; we are going down to the coast and back.”
With regard to the characteristic features of the various tribes here
on the western edge of the plateau, I can arrive at no other
conclusion than the one already come to in the plain, viz., that it is
impossible for anyone but a trained anthropologist to assign any
given individual at once to his proper tribe. In fact, I think that even
an anthropological specialist, after the most careful examination,
might find it a difficult task to decide. The whole congeries of peoples
collected in the region bounded on the west by the great Central
African rift, Tanganyika and Nyasa, and on the east by the Indian
Ocean, are closely related to each other—some of their languages are
only distinguished from one another as dialects of the same speech,
and no doubt all the tribes present the same shape of skull and
structure of skeleton. Thus, surely, there can be no very striking
differences in outward appearance.
 Even did such exist, I should have no time
to concern myself with them, for day after day,
I have to see or hear, as the case may be—in
any case to grasp and record—an
extraordinary number of ethnographic
phenomena. I am almost disposed to think it
fortunate that some departments of inquiry, at
least, are barred by external circumstances.
Chief among these is the subject of iron-
working. We are apt to think of Africa as a
country where iron ore is everywhere, so to
speak, to be picked up by the roadside, and
where it would be quite surprising if the
inhabitants had not learnt to smelt the
material ready to their hand. In fact, the
knowledge of this art ranges all over the
continent, from the Kabyles in the north to the
Kafirs in the south. Here between the Rovuma
and the Lukuledi the conditions are not so
favourable. According to the statements of the
Makonde, neither ironstone nor any other
form of iron ore is known to them. They have
not therefore advanced to the art of smelting
the metal, but have hitherto bought all their
THE ANCESTRESS OF
THE MAKONDE
iron implements from neighbouring tribes.
Even in the plain the inhabitants are not much
better off. Only one man now living is said to
understand the art of smelting iron. This old fundi lives close to
Huwe, that isolated, steep-sided block of granite which rises out of
the green solitude between Masasi and Chingulungulu, and whose
jagged and splintered top meets the traveller’s eye everywhere. While
still at Masasi I wished to see this man at work, but was told that,
frightened by the rising, he had retired across the Rovuma, though
he would soon return. All subsequent inquiries as to whether the
fundi had come back met with the genuine African answer, “Bado”
(“Not yet”).
 BRAZIER

Some consolation was afforded me by a brassfounder, whom I

came across in the bush near Akundonde’s. This man is the favourite
of women, and therefore no doubt of the gods; he welds the glittering
brass rods purchased at the coast into those massive, heavy rings
which, on the wrists and ankles of the local fair ones, continually give
me fresh food for admiration. Like every decent master-craftsman he
had all his tools with him, consisting of a pair of bellows, three
crucibles and a hammer—nothing more, apparently. He was quite
willing to show his skill, and in a twinkling had fixed his bellows on
the ground. They are simply two goat-skins, taken off whole, the four
legs being closed by knots, while the upper opening, intended to
admit the air, is kept stretched by two pieces of wood. At the lower
end of the skin a smaller opening is left into which a wooden tube is
stuck. The fundi has quickly borrowed a heap of wood-embers from
the nearest hut; he then fixes the free ends of the two tubes into an
earthen pipe, and clamps them to the ground by means of a bent
piece of wood. Now he fills one of his small clay crucibles, the dross
on which shows that they have been long in use, with the yellow
material, places it in the midst of the embers, which, at present are
only faintly glimmering, and begins his work. In quick alternation
the smith’s two hands move up and down with the open ends of the
bellows; as he raises his hand he holds the slit wide open, so as to let
the air enter the skin bag unhindered. In pressing it down he closes
the bag, and the air puffs through the bamboo tube and clay pipe into
the fire, which quickly burns up. The smith, however, does not keep
on with this work, but beckons to another man, who relieves him at
the bellows, while he takes some more tools out of a large skin pouch
carried on his back. I look on in wonder as, with a smooth round
stick about the thickness of a finger, he bores a few vertical holes into
the clean sand of the soil. This should not be difficult, yet the man
seems to be taking great pains over it. Then he fastens down to the
ground, with a couple of wooden clamps, a neat little trough made by
splitting a joint of bamboo in half, so that the ends are closed by the
two knots. At last the yellow metal has attained the right consistency,
and the fundi lifts the crucible from the fire by means of two sticks
split at the end to serve as tongs. A short swift turn to the left—a
tilting of the crucible—and the molten brass, hissing and giving forth
clouds of smoke, flows first into the bamboo mould and then into the
holes in the ground.
The technique of this backwoods craftsman may not be very far
advanced, but it cannot be denied that he knows how to obtain an
adequate result by the simplest means. The ladies of highest rank in
this country—that is to say, those who can afford it, wear two kinds
of these massive brass rings, one cylindrical, the other semicircular
in section. The latter are cast in the most ingenious way in the
bamboo mould, the former in the circular hole in the sand. It is quite
a simple matter for the fundi to fit these bars to the limbs of his fair
customers; with a few light strokes of his hammer he bends the
pliable brass round arm or ankle without further inconvenience to
the wearer.
SHAPING THE POT

SMOOTHING WITH MAIZE-COB

CUTTING THE EDGE

 FINISHING THE BOTTOM

LAST SMOOTHING BEFORE

BURNING

FIRING THE BRUSH-PILE

 LIGHTING THE FARTHER SIDE OF
THE PILE

TURNING THE RED-HOT VESSEL

NYASA WOMAN MAKING POTS AT MASASI

Pottery is an art which must always and everywhere excite the
interest of the student, just because it is so intimately connected with
the development of human culture, and because its relics are one of
the principal factors in the reconstruction of our own condition in
prehistoric times. I shall always remember with pleasure the two or
three afternoons at Masasi when Salim Matola’s mother, a slightly-
built, graceful, pleasant-looking woman, explained to me with
touching patience, by means of concrete illustrations, the ceramic art
of her people. The only implements for this primitive process were a
lump of clay in her left hand, and in the right a calabash containing
the following valuables: the fragment of a maize-cob stripped of all
its grains, a smooth, oval pebble, about the size of a pigeon’s egg, a
few chips of gourd-shell, a bamboo splinter about the length of one’s
hand, a small shell, and a bunch of some herb resembling spinach.
 Nothing more. The woman scraped with the
shell a round, shallow hole in the soft, fine
sand of the soil, and, when an active young
girl had filled the calabash with water for her,
she began to knead the clay. As if by magic it
gradually assumed the shape of a rough but
already well-shaped vessel, which only wanted
a little touching up with the instruments
before mentioned. I looked out with the
MAKUA WOMAN closest attention for any indication of the use
MAKING A POT. of the potter’s wheel, in however rudimentary
SHOWS THE a form, but no—hapana (there is none). The
BEGINNINGS OF THE embryo pot stood firmly in its little
POTTER’S WHEEL
depression, and the woman walked round it in
a stooping posture, whether she was removing
small stones or similar foreign bodies with the maize-cob, smoothing
the inner or outer surface with the splinter of bamboo, or later, after
letting it dry for a day, pricking in the ornamentation with a pointed
bit of gourd-shell, or working out the bottom, or cutting the edge
with a sharp bamboo knife, or giving the last touches to the finished
vessel. This occupation of the women is infinitely toilsome, but it is
without doubt an accurate reproduction of the process in use among
our ancestors of the Neolithic and Bronze ages.
There is no doubt that the invention of pottery, an item in human
progress whose importance cannot be over-estimated, is due to
women. Rough, coarse and unfeeling, the men of the horde range
over the countryside. When the united cunning of the hunters has
succeeded in killing the game; not one of them thinks of carrying
home the spoil. A bright fire, kindled by a vigorous wielding of the
drill, is crackling beside them; the animal has been cleaned and cut
up secundum artem, and, after a slight singeing, will soon disappear
under their sharp teeth; no one all this time giving a single thought
to wife or child.
To what shifts, on the other hand, the primitive wife, and still more
the primitive mother, was put! Not even prehistoric stomachs could
endure an unvarying diet of raw food. Something or other suggested
the beneficial effect of hot water on the majority of approved but
indigestible dishes. Perhaps a neighbour had tried holding the hard
roots or tubers over the fire in a calabash filled with water—or maybe
an ostrich-egg-shell, or a hastily improvised vessel of bark. They
became much softer and more palatable than they had previously
been; but, unfortunately, the vessel could not stand the fire and got
charred on the outside. That can be remedied, thought our
ancestress, and plastered a layer of wet clay round a similar vessel.
This is an improvement; the cooking utensil remains uninjured, but
the heat of the fire has shrunk it, so that it is loose in its shell. The
next step is to detach it, so, with a firm grip and a jerk, shell and
kernel are separated, and pottery is invented. Perhaps, however, the
discovery which led to an intelligent use of the burnt-clay shell, was
made in a slightly different way. Ostrich-eggs and calabashes are not
to be found in every part of the world, but everywhere mankind has
arrived at the art of making baskets out of pliant materials, such as
bark, bast, strips of palm-leaf, supple twigs, etc. Our inventor has no
water-tight vessel provided by nature. “Never mind, let us line the
basket with clay.” This answers the purpose, but alas! the basket gets
burnt over the blazing fire, the woman watches the process of
cooking with increasing uneasiness, fearing a leak, but no leak
appears. The food, done to a turn, is eaten with peculiar relish; and
the cooking-vessel is examined, half in curiosity, half in satisfaction
at the result. The plastic clay is now hard as stone, and at the same
time looks exceedingly well, for the neat plaiting of the burnt basket
is traced all over it in a pretty pattern. Thus, simultaneously with
pottery, its ornamentation was invented.
Primitive woman has another claim to respect. It was the man,
roving abroad, who invented the art of producing fire at will, but the
woman, unable to imitate him in this, has been a Vestal from the
earliest times. Nothing gives so much trouble as the keeping alight of
the smouldering brand, and, above all, when all the men are absent
from the camp. Heavy rain-clouds gather, already the first large
drops are falling, the first gusts of the storm rage over the plain. The
little flame, a greater anxiety to the woman than her own children,
flickers unsteadily in the blast. What is to be done? A sudden thought
occurs to her, and in an instant she has constructed a primitive hut
out of strips of bark, to protect the flame against rain and wind.
This, or something very like it, was the way in which the principle
of the house was discovered; and even the most hardened misogynist
cannot fairly refuse a woman the credit of it. The protection of the
hearth-fire from the weather is the germ from which the human
dwelling was evolved. Men had little, if any share, in this forward
step, and that only at a late stage. Even at the present day, the
plastering of the housewall with clay and the manufacture of pottery
are exclusively the women’s business. These are two very significant
survivals. Our European kitchen-garden, too, is originally a woman’s
invention, and the hoe, the primitive instrument of agriculture, is,
characteristically enough, still used in this department. But the
noblest achievement which we owe to the other sex is unquestionably
the art of cookery. Roasting alone—the oldest process—is one for
which men took the hint (a very obvious one) from nature. It must
have been suggested by the scorched carcase of some animal
overtaken by the destructive forest-fires. But boiling—the process of
improving organic substances by the help of water heated to boiling-
point—is a much later discovery. It is so recent that it has not even
yet penetrated to all parts of the world. The Polynesians understand
how to steam food, that is, to cook it, neatly wrapped in leaves, in a
hole in the earth between hot stones, the air being excluded, and
(sometimes) a few drops of water sprinkled on the stones; but they
do not understand boiling.
To come back from this digression, we find that the slender Nyasa
woman has, after once more carefully examining the finished pot,
put it aside in the shade to dry. On the following day she sends me
word by her son, Salim Matola, who is always on hand, that she is
going to do the burning, and, on coming out of my house, I find her
already hard at work. She has spread on the ground a layer of very
dry sticks, about as thick as one’s thumb, has laid the pot (now of a
yellowish-grey colour) on them, and is piling brushwood round it.
My faithful Pesa mbili, the mnyampara, who has been standing by,
most obligingly, with a lighted stick, now hands it to her. Both of
them, blowing steadily, light the pile on the lee side, and, when the
flame begins to catch, on the weather side also. Soon the whole is in a
blaze, but the dry fuel is quickly consumed and the fire dies down, so
that we see the red-hot vessel rising from the ashes. The woman
turns it continually with a long stick, sometimes one way and
sometimes another, so that it may be evenly heated all over. In
twenty minutes she rolls it out of the ash-heap, takes up the bundle
of spinach, which has been lying for two days in a jar of water, and
sprinkles the red-hot clay with it. The places where the drops fall are
marked by black spots on the uniform reddish-brown surface. With a
sigh of relief, and with visible satisfaction, the woman rises to an
erect position; she is standing just in a line between me and the fire,
from which a cloud of smoke is just rising: I press the ball of my
camera, the shutter clicks—the apotheosis is achieved! Like a
priestess, representative of her inventive sex, the graceful woman
stands: at her feet the hearth-fire she has given us beside her the
invention she has devised for us, in the background the home she has
built for us.
At Newala, also, I have had the manufacture of pottery carried on
in my presence. Technically the process is better than that already
described, for here we find the beginnings of the potter’s wheel,
which does not seem to exist in the plains; at least I have seen
nothing of the sort. The artist, a frightfully stupid Makua woman, did
not make a depression in the ground to receive the pot she was about
to shape, but used instead a large potsherd. Otherwise, she went to
work in much the same way as Salim’s mother, except that she saved
herself the trouble of walking round and round her work by squatting
at her ease and letting the pot and potsherd rotate round her; this is
surely the first step towards a machine. But it does not follow that
the pot was improved by the process. It is true that it was beautifully
rounded and presented a very creditable appearance when finished,
but the numerous large and small vessels which I have seen, and, in
part, collected, in the “less advanced” districts, are no less so. We
moderns imagine that instruments of precision are necessary to
produce excellent results. Go to the prehistoric collections of our
museums and look at the pots, urns and bowls of our ancestors in the
dim ages of the past, and you will at once perceive your error.
MAKING LONGITUDINAL CUT IN
BARK

DRAWING THE BARK OFF THE LOG

REMOVING THE OUTER BARK

 BEATING THE BARK

WORKING THE BARK-CLOTH AFTER BEATING, TO MAKE IT

SOFT

MANUFACTURE OF BARK-CLOTH AT NEWALA

To-day, nearly the whole population of German East Africa is
clothed in imported calico. This was not always the case; even now in
some parts of the north dressed skins are still the prevailing wear,
and in the north-western districts—east and north of Lake
Tanganyika—lies a zone where bark-cloth has not yet been
superseded. Probably not many generations have passed since such
bark fabrics and kilts of skins were the only clothing even in the
south. Even to-day, large quantities of this bright-red or drab
material are still to be found; but if we wish to see it, we must look in
the granaries and on the drying stages inside the native huts, where
it serves less ambitious uses as wrappings for those seeds and fruits
which require to be packed with special care. The salt produced at
Masasi, too, is packed for transport to a distance in large sheets of
bark-cloth. Wherever I found it in any degree possible, I studied the
process of making this cloth. The native requisitioned for the
purpose arrived, carrying a log between two and three yards long and
as thick as his thigh, and nothing else except a curiously-shaped
mallet and the usual long, sharp and pointed knife which all men and
boys wear in a belt at their backs without a sheath—horribile dictu!
[51]
Silently he squats down before me, and with two rapid cuts has
drawn a couple of circles round the log some two yards apart, and
slits the bark lengthwise between them with the point of his knife.
With evident care, he then scrapes off the outer rind all round the
log, so that in a quarter of an hour the inner red layer of the bark
shows up brightly-coloured between the two untouched ends. With
some trouble and much caution, he now loosens the bark at one end,
and opens the cylinder. He then stands up, takes hold of the free
edge with both hands, and turning it inside out, slowly but steadily
pulls it off in one piece. Now comes the troublesome work of
scraping all superfluous particles of outer bark from the outside of
the long, narrow piece of material, while the inner side is carefully
scrutinised for defective spots. At last it is ready for beating. Having
signalled to a friend, who immediately places a bowl of water beside
him, the artificer damps his sheet of bark all over, seizes his mallet,
lays one end of the stuff on the smoothest spot of the log, and
hammers away slowly but continuously. “Very simple!” I think to
myself. “Why, I could do that, too!”—but I am forced to change my
opinions a little later on; for the beating is quite an art, if the fabric is
not to be beaten to pieces. To prevent the breaking of the fibres, the
stuff is several times folded across, so as to interpose several
thicknesses between the mallet and the block. At last the required
state is reached, and the fundi seizes the sheet, still folded, by both
ends, and wrings it out, or calls an assistant to take one end while he
holds the other. The cloth produced in this way is not nearly so fine
and uniform in texture as the famous Uganda bark-cloth, but it is
quite soft, and, above all, cheap.
Now, too, I examine the mallet. My craftsman has been using the
simpler but better form of this implement, a conical block of some
hard wood, its base—the striking surface—being scored across and
across with more or less deeply-cut grooves, and the handle stuck
into a hole in the middle. The other and earlier form of mallet is
shaped in the same way, but the head is fastened by an ingenious
network of bark strips into the split bamboo serving as a handle. The
observation so often made, that ancient customs persist longest in
connection with religious ceremonies and in the life of children, here
finds confirmation. As we shall soon see, bark-cloth is still worn
during the unyago,[52] having been prepared with special solemn
ceremonies; and many a mother, if she has no other garment handy,
will still put her little one into a kilt of bark-cloth, which, after all,
looks better, besides being more in keeping with its African
surroundings, than the ridiculous bit of print from Ulaya.
MAKUA WOMEN