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Sweet Handfuls
Baby Jesus
© 2022 Sweet Handfuls Baby Jesus Crochet Pattern

Original Design by Megan Stoaks, Mushrooms and Meadows
Original Artwork by Molly Stoaks, Mushrooms and Meadows
This pattern is for personal use only. Posting, selling, or sharing of this pattern in any form is illegal.
Please respect the work of artists! Finished products may be sold if not mass produced. Please credit
Megan Stoaks of Mushrooms and Meadows as the designer and if possible, include link to the pattern
listing or shop. Please use your own photo when selling or presenting your product.
Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

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Supplies Abbreviations
One Sweet Handfuls Mini Baby Doll (base Rnd Round
doll) made in desired skin tone, no hair,
eyes open or closed mr magic ring
Size 1.5mm hook ch chain
Size 2.0mm hook sc single crochet
Size 2 (super fine weight) yarn in colors (or dc double crochet
choose your own!):
INC increase
White or Natural White
Light Brown DEC decrease
f Golden Yellow inv DEC invisible decrease

Olive (or light brown) slst slip stitch
Metallic Gold st stitch
I used Hobbii Rainbow Cotton sts stitches
8/4 in Natural White (002),
Light Brown (006), Curry sk skip
(056), Olive (072), and Go
Handmade Cocktail Deluxe in
sp space
Gold (metallic) (also from
BLO back loops only
Hobbii)
(…)x repeat the indicated
Stitch markers or paper clips number of times
14 Craft sticks (popsicle sticks)
Scissors
Craft glue
Craft paint or spray paint (optional)
Tapestry needle
Stick pins (lots of these!)
Large Styrofoam or thick foam piece for wet
blocking
Medium wooden button
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Baby Jesus in the Manger…

A Christmas Tradition
There are various customs and traditions in different countries that have developed around
placing a statue of the Baby Jesus in a manger after midnight on Christmas Eve or after
attending midnight Mass. It can consist of singing carols to greet baby Jesus, and then laying
Him in the manger, which had been empty until that point. Or some families have the empty
manger under the Christmas tree leading up to Christmas, and the children will be delighted
when Baby Jesus appears in the manger on Christmas morning!
My inspiration for making a Baby Jesus version of the Sweet Handfuls Mini Baby doll was my
desire to have a Baby Jesus statue as part of our family décor and Christmas tradition. I took
inspiration from the various Baby Jesus statues I have seen, and remember from my own
childhood. He will have a special place under our Christmas tree or maybe nestled in the
branches. I hope that you are able to find a way to make Baby Jesus a special Christmas
tradition in your family too!

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Level: INTERMEDIATE
A Note about Yarn Over vs. Yarn Under: When making clothes or
blankets for the Sweet Handfuls Dolls, I generally use Yarn Over (v-
stitch) because this results in a softer feel and look. The dolls
themselves are made using Yarn Under (x-stitch). Differences in
these techniques can result in slightly different tension, shaping,
and sizing. There are many articles, videos, and pictures on the
internet showing these differences and explaining how to do each
type of stitch. I list which technique I used at the beginning of each item in this pattern, (and
when I have made the item both ways, I list that it is “your preference”) but it is merely a
guideline and not a requirement. With a little practice, it is quite easy to switch back and forth
between the two!
A Note about Yarn: It is important to use the same size yarn for both the Mini Baby Doll and
the Baby Jesus set so that the sizing is appropriate (also see Hook Sizing below.)
Wet Blocking: The Straw Bed will require “wet blocking” to tame the crazy pieces of straw and
make them much more manageable. This process involves wetting the Straw Bed, pinning it
with (many) stick pins to a piece of thick foam or Styrofoam while shaping and stretching it, and
allowing a day or 2 of drying time. You may be able to skip this step if you use acrylic yarn or
yarn that does not curl up. An alternative may be to iron the straw bed before you put on the
olive colored interior round, and iron again after the interior round is finished.
Hook Sizing Explained: When designing the Baby Jesus set, I used 2 different hook sizes. One
hook will be the hook size used in making the dolls (hair and diaper wrap). The other hook will
be 0.5mm larger, to keep these items from becoming too stiff (straw bed and swaddling
blanket). The halo is made with a 0.5mm larger hook as well, to accommodate the gold yarn
which is a bit trickier to work with. Because I used 1.5mm hook on the dolls, I will be indicating
1.5mm and 2.0mm in the pattern. If you used a larger hook for the dolls, you will use that same
hook when it is indicated “1.5mm” in the pattern, and 0.5mm larger when it is indicated
“2.0mm” in the pattern.
An Extra Note about Hook Sizing: When making dolls and amigurumi, try to find the hook size
that keeps the stitches tight enough that when they are stretched with fiber fill, there will not
be holes (where you can see the fiber fill peeking through). If you find that your hook is
catching and splitting the yarn, it may be too small, and you need to try a hook size larger. I
tend to use very small hooks, and some people will prefer to size up from what I have listed.
I’ve also found there can be differences between crochet hook brands. Please feel free to
experiment to find the hook size that works best for YOU!! Consistency is key – keep track of
the hook size that you use to make your doll, so that all other items are consistently sized to fit
your doll. Keep in mind that larger yarn sizes and hook sizes will result in a larger doll and add-
on items!

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Manger Templates
You will need 14 craft sticks (popsicle sticks) to construct the wooden manger. Print this page
to use as a template. Note: The sticks I used were purchased in the craft section of Walmart
(USA). They are approximately 4 ½” (11 ½ cm) long, and 3/8” (1 cm) wide, for reference.

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Manger
The wooden manger is constructed using regular sized craft sticks (popsicle sticks), and craft
glue (or wood glue) or hot glue. (Craft glue is less bulky, but takes longer to dry so you will
need to prop up your pieces somehow when gluing. Hot glue will dry quickly, but seams may
not be as tight because it is bulkier.) This manger will work for dolls that are made with size 2
yarn, and are roughly 5” long. I think that for a doll made with size 3 yarn, “jumbo” craft sticks
could be used. A doll made with size 4 yarn may require using larger pieces of wood to
construct the manger.
You will need the manger templates, Lay one craft stick on Template A,
and 14 craft sticks put a dot of glue in the center
Lay a second craft stick in the Using Template B, you will mark
glue, forming the X shape where you will need to cut the
(Make 2 of these) craft stick

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Cut the craft stick on the 2 marked These are the pieces you will
lines (Cut 4 craft sticks this way)* end up with
Using the smaller cut pieces, you will glue You should end up with
them onto the X shape to reinforce it 2 double thick X shapes
You will need to find a way to Make sure the distance that they are
prop up the X shapes separated is the length of a craft stick

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Starting in the center, put Carefully place the

drops of glue on the X shapes 2 center craft sticks
Continue adding glue and craft Let the glue dry, remove the items you
sticks so that there are 3 on used to prop it up, and make sure
each half (forming the trough) everything is straight
*I use regular scissors to cut the craft sticks. Sometimes the craft stick will start to split on one
side, so I try to make sure the side that splits is the small center piece, and not the side I am
using for the craft.
Optional: You can paint the wooden manger with craft paint or spray paint if desired, or stain
it. (The manger can also be left as natural wood.)

Page |9
Straw bed
Using Yarn Over (v-stitch) or your preference Fig. 1
Using 2.0mm hook (0.5mm larger hook size than doll)
Using Golden Yellow yarn
Note: Turning ch (ch1) will not be included in the stitch count.
Start with Ch17
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 16sc, ch1, turn (16) Fig. 2
Row 2-27: 16sc, ch1, turn (26 rows) (16)
Row 28: 16sc (do not turn) (Fig. 1) (16)
Border and Straw

Place marker, and start continuous rounds.
Rnd 1: 27 sc across ends of rows, 3sc in corner, 14sc, 3sc in Fig. 3
corner, 27sc across ends of rows, 3sc in corner, 14sc, 3sc in
corner (Fig. 2) (94)
Rnd 2: BLO - [28sc, INC (in corner), 16sc, INC (in corner), 29sc,
INC (in corner), 17sc, INC (in corner)] (Fig. 3) (98)
Rnd 3: (2 pieces of straw) *(ch10 (Fig. 4), starting 2nd ch from
hook – 9slst, 1sc in next sc (Fig. 5), ch15, starting 2nd ch from Fig. 4
hook – 14slst, 1sc in next sc (Fig. 6)), continue from * around,
(last piece of straw will be a ch15 piece) (Fig. 7)
(98 pieces of straw)
Finish off, and sew in ends.
Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 7

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Fig. 8
Join Olive (or light brown)
yarn to exposed front loops
from Rnd 2. (Fig. 8)
Fig. 9
Interior Rnd: *(Ch12, starting 2nd ch from hook – 11slst, 1sc in next sc, ch8, starting 2nd ch from
hook – 7slst, 1sc in next sc (Fig. 9)), continue from * around (Fig. 10) (92 pieces of straw)
Finish off, and sew in ends.
Fig. 11
Fig. 10 Fig. 12
Wet the straw bed and wring out the excess

water. Lay out the damp straw bed on a thick
piece of foam or Styrofoam, and carefully
stretch each piece of straw, keeping it straight,
and pin down with stick pins. (Fig. 11, 12, 13)
Let dry overnight or length of time necessary
for it to completely dry. Wet blocking will help
the straw to lay more neatly (also see Notes on
page 4.)
Fig. 13

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Hair Fig. 14
Using Yarn Under (x-stitch)

Using 1.5mm hook (same hook size as doll)
Using Light Brown yarn
Rnd 1: 7sc in mr (7)
Rnd 2: (INC) x7 (14)
Fig. 15
Rnd 3: (1sc, INC) x7 (21)
Rnd 4: (2sc, INC) x7 (Fig. 14) (28)
Rnd 5: (This round will be crocheting the pieces of hair,
and each piece will be numbered):
1) *Ch15, starting in 2nd ch from hook – INC, 1sc, INC,
11sc, 1sc in next sc (on Rnd) (Fig. 15, 16)
Fig. 16
2) **Ch17, starting in 2nd ch from hook – INC, 1sc, INC
(Fig. 17), 13sc, 1sc in next sc (on Rnd) (Fig. 18)
3) Repeat *(Ch15…)
4) Repeat **(Ch17…)
5) Repeat *(Ch15…) Fig. 17
6) ***Ch13, starting in 2nd ch from hook – INC, 1sc, INC,

9sc, 1sc in next st (on Rnd)
7) Repeat ***(Ch13…) INC, 1sc, INC
8) Repeat ***(Ch13…)
Space: 3sc (in next 3sts on Rnd, forming a gap between Fig. 18
hair strands)
9) Ch7, starting in 2nd ch from hook – 6sc, 1sc in next sc
(on Rnd)

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10) Ch9, starting in 2nd ch from hook – 8sc, 1sc in next sc (on
Rnd)
11) Ch 11, starting in 2nd ch from hook – 10sc, 1sc in next sc

(on Rnd)
12) Ch9, starting in 2nd ch from hook – 8sc, 1sc in next sc (on Fig. 19
Rnd) Hair will be curly
13) Ch7, starting in 2nd ch from hook –

Fig. 20
6sc, 1sc in next sc (on Rnd)
Space: 3sc (in next 3sts on Rnd, forming
a gap between hair strands)
14) ***Ch13, starting in 2nd ch from
hook – INC, 1sc, INC, 9sc, 1sc in next
st (on Rnd)
15) Repeat ***Ch13…
16) Repeat ***Ch13… (Stick pins used to show hair stretched out)
17) *Ch15, starting in 2nd ch from hook – INC, 1sc, INC, 11sc, 1sc
in next sc (on Rnd)
18) **Ch17, starting in 2nd ch from hook – INC, 1sc, INC, 13sc, 1sc
in next sc (on Rnd)
19) Repeat *Ch15…
20) Repeat **Ch17…
21) Repeat *Ch15…

You should have 21 pieces of hair, with 2 spaces. (Fig. 19, 20)
Note: The hair piece will be placed on the head with the back
side facing out, so that the curls are curling under.
Using stick pins, fasten the middle section of the hair piece to the
head, carefully centering the 5 shorter strands in front (back
strands will reach the back of the neck area).

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When you are satisfied with

placement, you can glue the
middle of the hair piece to
the top of the head, and re-
pin it.
Starting from the center of the back, carefully place

glue under the 2 middle strands, gluing down to just
above the curl.
Pin down each strand. Hair strands should be touching

each other and neatly lying flat around the back of the
head (except for the curl at the end of each strand will
be loose).
Continue to glue down and pin each strand around the

back of the head, alternating between each side, until
all 10 strands of hair on the back of the head are glued
in place.
After the 10 strands of

hair on the back of the
head are glued and
pinned in place, find the
6 strands above the ears
(3 on each side – these
were the ch13 pieces).

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Apply glue under the 3 side hair strands down to the ear.
Glue down the middle strand first, with curl falling just in
front of the ear, and pin in place.
The 2 strands on either side of the middle strand will fall

with their 2 curls above the middle strand curl. Glue and
pin into place.
Repeat on the other side. (Photo shows the middle

strand is glued and pinned first.) Note: I placed the
curls the way that they naturally fall, (facing forward on
this side.) For a more symmetrical look, they can be
manually turned to face back and glued that way if
preferred.
Next, you will glue the shorter hair (bangs) in the front
of the forehead.

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Start with the middle strand of the 5 front strands

(bangs), gluing it centered on the forehead.
Next glue the 2 outer strands. Because they are

shorter, the curls will be higher on the forehead than
the middle curl. Leave a little space for the last 2
strands to fit.
Add more glue if needed to attach the final 2 strands of

hair.
The curls of these strands (purple and red in the photo)

will lay on top of the other strands which are already
glued down. Add glue and pin as needed.
Allow time for the craft glue to dry, then carefully

remove stick pins. (A small pliers can be useful if the
pins are stuck from the glue.)

P a g e | 16
At the back of the head: Arrange the slightly longer

strands (ch17) to form a bottom row of curls, and the
ch15 strands to form a row of curls above the bottom
row. (The straight part of the 10 glued strands should
be lying side by side covering the back of the head so no
skin color shows through.)
If you find that some spots are uneven or too loose, add
a little more glue and re-pin as needed until the hair is
shaped how you like it. The curls at the ends of each
strand can be left loose, or glued in place if you don’t
want them to move around.
Diaper Wrap
Fig. 21
Using Yarn Over (v-stitch)
Using 1.5mm hook (same hook size as doll)
Using White or Natural White yarn
Start with Ch28, then join in a circle by making a sc into the
beginning chain, being careful not to twist the row of chains.
(Fig. 21) Place your marker and begin working in continuous Fig. 22
rounds.
Note: When you sew in your ends (after making the diaper
wrap), you can make an invisible join with your starting tail.
Rnd 1-3: 28sc (3 rounds) (Fig. 22) (28)
Leaving the marker in place, you will now change to Rows to
form the crotch section. Note: Turning ch (ch1) will not be
included in the stitch count, and the crotch rows will be
designated with letters.
Row A: BLO 8sc (skipping the rest of the round), ch1, turn
(Fig. 23) (8) Fig. 23

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Row B: DEC, 4sc, DEC, ch1, turn (4)

Row C: 6sc, ch1, turn (6)
Row D: DEC, 2sc, DEC, ch1, turn (Fig. 24) (4)
Row E-H: 4sc, ch1, turn (4 rows) (Fig. 25) (4)
Row I: INC, 2sc, INC, ch1, turn (6)
Row J: INC, 4sc, INC (Fig. 26) (8)
Cut yarn, leaving a tail for sewing.
Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26
Sew crotch piece to waistband using a whipstitch through the inside loop (Fig. 28) on the
waistband and both loops on the crotch piece (leaving the loop to the outside exposed for
later.) Be careful to center it (there will be 6sts on the waistband over each leg hole) (Fig. 27).
Sew in ends.
Fig. 27 Fig. 28
Return to where your marker was, and continue with Round 4.

Rnd 4: (working into exposed front loops, and FLO) (3sc, INC) x7 (see photos below) (35)
Front and back of diaper Above leg holes
8 exposed front loops

How Rnd 4 will look
P a g e | 18
Rnd 5: FLO 35sc (Fig. 29) (35)

Fig. 29
Rnd 6: 10sc, (INC, 1sc) x6, 13sc (41)
Rnd 7-8: 41sc (2 rounds) (41)
Rnd 9: FLO 41sc (Fig. 30) (41)
Finish off with invisible join. Sew in ends. (Fig. 31)
Fig. 31 Fig. 32
Side with INCs will

Fig. 30
stick out more
Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 35
Gather this side
Fig. 37
Fig. 36 Fig. 38
With garment facing you (join on the starting round of chains

on the waistband should be on the back side (see Fig. 32)).
Take the right side and pinch it into creases. (Fig. 33) Using a
bit of white yarn, sew through the creases from bottom to top
and back again, to hold them in position. (Fig. 34, 35, 36) Pull
the yarn tight and knot it, sew in the ends. (Fig. 37, 38)

P a g e | 19
Halo
Using Yarn Under (x-stitch)
Using 2.0mm hook (0.5mm larger hook size than
doll)
Using Metallic Gold yarn
Rnd 2: (INC) x8 (16)
Rnd 3: (1sc, INC) x8 (24)
Rnd 4: BLO – (1sc, INC, 1sc) x8 (32)
Rnd 5: (3sc, INC) x8 (40)
Rnd 6: (2sc, INC, 2sc) x8 (48)
Rnd 7: BLO – (5sc, INC) x8 (56)
Rnd 8: (3sc, INC, 3sc) x8 (64)
Rnd 9: (7sc, INC) x8 (Fig. 39) (72)
Do not finish off. Set aside to make second circle.
Fig. 39
Using Golden Yellow yarn
Rnd 2: (INC) x8 (16)
Rnd 3: (1sc, INC) x8 (24)
Rnd 4: (1sc, INC, 1sc) x8 (32)
Rnd 5: (3sc, INC) x8 (40)
Rnd 6: (2sc, INC, 2sc) x8 (48) Fig. 40
Rnd 7: (5sc, INC) x8 (56)
Rnd 8: (3sc, INC, 3sc) x8 (64)
Rnd 9: (7sc, INC) x8 (Fig. 40) (72)
Finish off with invisible join. Sew in ends.

P a g e | 20
Cut a piece of plastic canvas, cardboard, (or other thin, sturdy material) into a circle that is
slightly smaller than the crocheted circles.
Placing the 2 crocheted circles back-to- Continue with sc around the circles.
back, use the yarn from the Metallic When you reach about 2/3 of the way
Gold circle to crochet through both around, insert the plastic canvas piece
loops of matching sc on both circles. between the 2 circles.
Optional: Add a little fiber fill between the canvas piece and the Golden
Yellow circle (back piece), to puff out the back of the halo like a thin
pillow. (Especially if your metallic yarn creates a smaller circle than the
golden yellow yarn which forms the back, and there is extra space to fill.)
Continue with sc
around, until the
circles are fully sewn
together. Finish off.
Sew in ends.

P a g e | 21
The halo is like a little pillow. It lays on the straw bed, and when the Baby Jesus is lying in the
bed, the halo will show around His head. The halo will be visible whether He is in the diaper
wrap only, or if He is in the swaddling blanket. If you prefer, the halo can be attached to the
bed (by glue or sewing), but I prefer to keep it separate.
Swaddling Blanket
Using Yarn Over (v-stitch)
Using 2.0mm hook (0.5mm larger hook size than doll)
Starting with White or Natural White yarn
Fig. 41
Rnd 2: (INC) x6 (12)
Rnd 3: (1sc, INC) x6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2sc, INC) x6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3sc, INC) x6 (30)
Rnd 6: (4sc, INC) x6 (Fig. 41) (36)
Rnd 7: 18sc (skipping the rest of the round, you will now
change to Rows), ch1, turn (18)
Note: You can remove your stitch marker now. Turning
ch (ch1) will not be included in the stitch count.
Row 8-15: 18sc, ch1, turn (8 rows) (Fig. 42) (18) Fig. 42
Row 16: INC, 16sc, INC, ch1, turn (20)

P a g e | 22
Row 17: 20sc, ch1, turn (20)

Fig. 43
Row 19: 22sc, ch1, turn (22)
Row 21: 24sc, ch1, turn (Fig. 43) (24)
Fig. 44
Row 31: INC, 40sc, INC, ch1, turn (Fig. 44) (44)
Note: The next 2 rows will include making a button hole Fig. 45
(and will not increase).
Row 32: 40sc, ch3, sk 3 sts, 1sc, ch1, turn (Fig. 45) (44)
Row 33: 1sc, 3sc in ch3 sp, 40sc, ch1, turn (Fig. 46, 47)
(44)
Note: Now the rows will begin to decrease.
Row 34: DEC, 40sc, DEC, ch1, turn (42) Fig. 46
Row 35: DEC, 38sc, DEC, ch1, turn (40)
Row 36: DEC, 36sc, DEC, ch1, turn (38) Fig. 47
Row 39: 34 sc, ch1, turn (34)

P a g e | 23
Row 41: 32sc, ch1, turn (Fig. 48) (32)

Fig. 48
Row 43: 30sc, ch1, turn (30)
Row 45: 28sc, ch1, turn (28)
Row 47: 26sc, ch1, turn (26)
Fig. 49
Row 49: 24sc, ch1, turn (24)
Row 51: 22sc, ch1, turn (22)
Row 53: 20sc, ch1, turn (20)
Row 55: 18sc, ch1, turn (18)
Row 57: 16sc, ch1, turn (16)
Row 59: 14sc, ch1, turn (14)
Row 61: 12sc, ch1, turn (12)
Row 63: 10sc, ch1, turn (10)
Row 65-67: 8sc, ch1, turn (3 rows) (8)
Do not turn after last row. (Fig. 49)

P a g e | 24
Border
Place marker, and start continuous rounds.
Rnd 1: 60sc (across ends of rows), 18sc (across front
edge of hood from Rnd 6), [24sc, INC (next to button
hole) (Fig. 50), 34sc] (across ends of rows) (Fig. 51), INC
in corner (1st stitch of Row 67), 6sc (across Row 67), INC
in corner (last stitch of Row 67), do not cut yarn (148) Fig. 50
Rnd 2: Change to Metallic Gold yarn (Fig. 52) – 139sc,

INC, 7sc, INC (increases are in the corners) (150)
Rnd 3: Change back to White or Natural White yarn
(Fig. 53) – BLO – [60sc, DEC, 16sc (across front edge of
hood), DEC (Fig. 54), 60sc, INC, 8sc, INC (increases are in
the corners)] (150)
Finish off. Sew in ends. Fig. 51
Fig. 54
Fig. 52 Fig. 53
Determine the best placement for the button

by swaddling the doll (see next page), and sew
button in place with yarn or thread.
P a g e | 25
Directions for placing Baby Jesus in the Swaddling Blanket:
1. 2.
3. 4.
Fold bottom up to chin Fold left side (with button) across
5.
Fold right across, and fasten button

P a g e | 26
Putting Everything Together

P a g e | 27
© 2022 Sweet Handfuls Baby Jesus Crochet Pattern

Original Design by Megan Stoaks, Mushrooms and Meadows
Original Artwork by Molly Stoaks, Mushrooms and Meadows
This pattern is for personal use only. Posting, selling, or sharing of this pattern in any form is illegal.
Please respect the work of artists! Finished products may be sold if not mass produced. Please credit
Megan Stoaks of Mushrooms and Meadows as the designer and if possible, include link to the pattern
listing or shop. Please use your own photo when selling or presenting your product.

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© 2022 Sweet Handfuls Baby Jesus Crochet Pattern

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

f Golden Yellow inv DEC invisible decrease

Baby Jesus in the Manger…

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Starting in the center, put Carefully place the

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Border and Straw

Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 7

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Wet the straw bed and wring out the excess

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Using Yarn Under (x-stitch)

5) Repeat *(Ch15…) Fig. 17

6) ***Ch13, starting in 2nd ch from hook – INC, 1sc, INC,

7) Repeat ***(Ch13…) INC, 1sc, INC

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

11) Ch 11, starting in 2nd ch from hook – 10sc, 1sc in next sc

13) Ch7, starting in 2nd ch from hook –

15) Repeat ***Ch13…

19) Repeat *Ch15…

20) Repeat **Ch17…

21) Repeat *Ch15…

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

When you are satisfied with

Starting from the center of the back, carefully place

Pin down each strand. Hair strands should be touching

Continue to glue down and pin each strand around the

After the 10 strands of

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

The 2 strands on either side of the middle strand will fall

Repeat on the other side. (Photo shows the middle

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Start with the middle strand of the 5 front strands

Next glue the 2 outer strands. Because they are

Add more glue if needed to attach the final 2 strands of

The curls of these strands (purple and red in the photo)

Allow time for the craft glue to dry, then carefully

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

At the back of the head: Arrange the slightly longer

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Row B: DEC, 4sc, DEC, ch1, turn (4)

Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26

Return to where your marker was, and continue with Round 4.

Front and back of diaper Above leg holes

8 exposed front loops

Rnd 5: FLO 35sc (Fig. 29) (35)

Side with INCs will

Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 35

Gather this side

With garment facing you (join on the starting round of chains

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Row 16: INC, 16sc, INC, ch1, turn (20)

Copyright © 2022 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

Row 17: 20sc, ch1, turn (20)