WEAVING AND KNITTING

OPERATION LEVEL – I
MODULE TITLE: PREPARE WARP FOR WEAVING

Prepared by: Daniel Leulseged

 Introduction to the Module

 In Weaving and Knitting field; it helps to know job specification; to estimate the quantity of warp yarn
required; to determine sizing chemicals and know sizing machine used; to perform drawing – in
depending on specific draft; to check product quality with standard set for weaving occupati
This module covers the units:

• Job requirements
• Warping for weaving
• Sizing
• Drawing-in process
• Product quality

Learning Objective of the Module

• Determine job requirements

• Perform warping for weaving
• Perform sizing
• Perform Drawing-in process
• Check product quality
 Unit one: Job requirements

This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information

regarding the following content coverage and topics:
• Standard operating procedures (SOPs)
• Work health and safety (WHS)
• Personal protective equipment (PPE)
 1.1 Standard operating procedures (SOPs)
v Standard operating procedures are written, step by step instructions that describe how to perform a routine
activity.

v Employees should complete them in the exact same way every time so that the business can remain consistent.

v Standard operating procedures help maintain safety and efficiency for departments such as:

A. Production /operations

B. Sales and customer service

C. Employee training

D. Legal
E. Financial

v A standing operating procedure should never be difficult to read or vaguely worded. It should be brief, easy to
understand and contain actions steps that are simple follow
 1.2 Work health and safety (WHS)requirements
v Compliance with work health and safety is the state of being in accordance with established guidelines of
work health and safety or specifications, or the process of becoming so.
v
v The definition of compliance can also encompass efforts to ensure that organizations are abiding by both
industry regulations and government legislation

v Compliance is a prevalent business concern, partly because of an ever-increasing number of regulations that
require companies to be vigilant about maintaining a full understanding of their regulatory requirements
for compliance

v Workplace health and safety is all about sensibly managing risks to protect your workers and your business.
 1.3 Personal protective equipment (PPE)

v Personal protective equipment (PPE) is a tool that you use to guarantee your own safety.

v Personal Protective Equipment includes: fire retardant or chemical-proof clothing for over all body, gloves for hands,
hard hats or helmets for head, breathing musk for respirators, safety spectacles for eyes, goggles or face shields for
faces and boots for foot.

v Eye and face protection equipment’s are used to protect against flying particles and foreign bodies, corrosive
chemicals, fumes, lasers and radiation.
The two basic problems in wearing eye and face protectors are:
a) How to provide effective protection which is acceptable for wearing over long hours of work without
undue discomfort and

b) The unpopularity of eye and face protection due to restriction of vision. The wearer’s peripheral vision is
limited by the side frames. There are different types of eye and face protection equipment.

v So at any workplaces, safety clothes required for specific work must be given to workers and must be
supervised by their respective work manager whether they wear or not.
 SELF-CHECK – 1
Test-I: Multiple choices
Instruction: select the correct answer for the given choice. You have given 1 Minute for each question each question carries 2 point
1. One of the followings is part of Standard operating procedures
A. Employee training
B. Legal
C. Financial
D. All are correct
2. Which one are correct procedures about Standard operating procedures
A. Production /operations , Sales and customer service , Employee training , Legal & Financial
B. Production /operations , Employee training , Sales and customer service , Legal &Financial
C. Sales and customer service , Production /operations , Employee training , Legal &Financial
D. Financial ,Sales and customer service , Production /operations , Employee training & Legal
Test –II: Short answer
Instruction; write correct short answer for each of the following question.
1. What are the two basic problems in wearing eye and face protectors in observing personal protection.
2. What is job?
3. List down the basic requirements of job.
 Unit two: Warping for weaving

This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following
content coverage and topics:
• Setting warp
• Creeling and loading of yarn
• Operating warp machine
• Monitoring warping process
• Sorting waste
 2.1 Setting warp
v During warping a certain number of ends of a given length are wound in the warpers in to a warping beam.

v A beam consists of a large number of threads arranged in parallel order. The length of each thread is usually
at least several thousand meters.

v The main objective of warping process is to present a continuous length of yarn to the succeeding process
with all ends continuously present and with the integrity and elasticity of the yarn as wound fully
preserved.
 2.1.1 Yarn combinations and patterns

 In woven designs from colored threads, a colored pattern is a consequence of two possible arrangements
where warp is over the weft or vice versa.

 The primary elements of woven fabric design are combination of weaves and blending of colors using such
weaves

 Weave is the plan of interlacing the warp and weft yarns that produce the integrated fabric. Weave relates
specially to the build or structure of the fabric.
 Color and ornamentation in woven fabrics is imparted through the pre-determined placement and interlacing
of particular sequences of yarns.

 A solid color is produced by employing the same color in warp and weft. On the other hand, different colors
may be combined to produce either a mixed or intermingled color effect in which the composite hue
appears as a solid color

 Figured ornamentation is created through the selection of different groups of colored yarns, placed in the
warp and/or in the weft; while in certain patterns, textural effects may be created entirely through the use
of different values and closely associated hues of certain colors.

 The figure is formed for the purpose of displaying different pattern formations, adding dimension or color
reinforcement and for enhancing a particular motif.
 2.1.2 Length/width
v To calculate the amount of weft, you need to know warp width, the number of picks per inch(PPI), and the
length of the weaving.

v I usually add ten percent to that number for weft take-up.

(So for an 8" wide warp woven at 20 picks per inch for 65": 8" x 20 x 65" = 10,400" divided by 36"/yd = 288 yd
plus 10% = 317 yd

Note: 1yard(yd)= 36inch(“)

 2.1.3 Number of ends
Yarn Calculation Requirement
 The finished length of cloth plus (hems (2inch), take up and shrinkage (10-15%) and loom waste (36inch or 1yard).

 The width of the warp in the reed (width of material wanted plus shrinkage, Add 10% –15% for shrinkage.).
E.g. take 10% shrinkage.
 The sett of the warp (how many ends per cm or inch of yarn we need)

The spacing of your warp is called your sett. It is usually indicated by "epi" which stands for "ends per inch" (also referred
to as dpi which stands for "dents per inch"). This indicates how many warp threads (these are the vertical threads on a
loom) you have in one horizontal inch.
Given formulas:
 Nr =po (1 - % weft crimp)
(ends /dent)
Key:-
Po = warp density (EPI)
Nr = Reed count
# Question 1. Given the following data
 Fabric width = 24inch,
 Warp density (EPI) =40
 Weft crimp=10%
 Ends/dent =2
 General Selvedge width (1-2.5cm) =1cm(0.393inch)
 Finished Project length = 36inch
Required:
A. Nr(reed count)
B. Total project width
C. Total number of ends in the ground
D. Total number of ends in the selvedge
E. Total number of ends in the ground and selvedge
F. Total dent
G. Total length of one yarn
Solution:
A .Nr (reed count)
= po (1-% shrinkage)/ends /dent
= 40(1-0.1)/2 =18
B. Total project width
= Project width + % shrinkage of project width
= 24inch + (24inch * 0.1)
= 24inch + 2.4inch
= 26.4inch
C .Total number of ends in the ground
Given 1inch =40end
26.4inch =?
26.4inch*40end/1inch= 1056ends
D .Total number of ends in the selvedge
1inch =40end
0.393inch =?
0.393inch * 40end/ 1inch =15.74 ≈16ends in one selvedge side, 16*2 for both side
E .Total number of ends in the ground and selvedge
= (Total number of ends in the ground) + (Total number of ends in the selvedge)
= 1056 + 32
= 1088 ends
F. Total dent
= total number of warp ends in the ground/2
= 1056/2
= 528 dents
G. Total length of one yarn
= project length + loom wastage + %shrinkage + hems *2

= 36inch + 1yard + 36inch *10% + 2inch *2

= 36inch + 36inch +3.6inch + 4inch
 Total length of one yarn = 79.6inch = 80inch, but for all yarns,
It will be 79.6inch * 1088 = 86604.8inch
 2.1.4 Package density customers and suppliers
ü Package density is the amount of yarns wound on the specific yarn package. It has direct impact on dyeing
and it has its own calculation formula. This formula is explained as below.

Where,
M= Total package wt
m = Bobbin wt;
r =Bobbin dia
R= Total package dia ;
h= Bobbin length or height
 Example: If Package wt 1150 gm, bobbin wt 140 gm, package dia 174 mm, bobbin dia 65
mm, height 149 mm, then
 ………………………1150-140
Package Density = ………………………………………… gm/cm3 ……………
2 X 3.1416 X {(8.7)2 – (6.5)2 X 14.9
= 0.33 gm/cm3
 2.2 Creeling or loading of yarn

During performing creeling operations, production specifications are checked to identify requirements for yarn
quantity, quality & color as per required. The description of the above listed production parameters is as
follows:
Yarn Quantity
v The yarn quantity shows the mass, length, count of yarn & the number of yarn required in the production
specifications.
Example:
 The size of cones required in warping process
 The weight of ends required on weft magazine for looms
Count of Yarn
 Count of yarn shows the thinness or thickness of the given yarn. The count of yarn in each batch of cone or
beam must be same.
Yarn Quality
 When load the creels, the quality of the yarn specified must be checked & translated. Example:
 The strength of each yarn end must be same
 The evenness / uniformity of each yarn must be same. Color of Yarn
 When colored yarn is used, the position of each color on the creel must be checked. Colored yarns used,
especially in sectional warping machine, in manufacturing stripe knitted fabric& weft yarn magazine for
loom.
 A creel is simply a frame on which the feeding thread or yarn bobbin is fitted.
 Often, the creel is fitted with a yarn tensioning device which controls tension variation. Proper placement
and stabilization of thread and yarn at the beginning of the product manufacturing process is critical.
 There are different types of creels which all have different package loading methods. Example let see
package loading in portable creel type.
 Creels having frames configured to receive one or more trays of yarn packages. The trays of yarn packages
are removable from the frame and can be loaded with packages of yarn when not inserted into the frame.
 Separately loading trays with yarns can simplify and provide other benefits with respect to the process of
loading a creel with yarn packages.
 2.3 Operating warp machine
The Operating warp machine process should met the following technical requirements
• The tension of all wound ends must be uniform
• Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of the yarn
• The density of the yarn throughout the package must be uniform as possible and its shape should be
cylindrical
• All ends should be of the same length
• While the yarn end break or slough-off occurs, the beam must stop before 5 meter
displacement
• The production rate of warping should be as high as possible

Yarn preparation machines may produce yarns either for weaving or knitting operation. These machines
include: winding machine, warping machine, sizing machine, waxing machine and etc.
 Winding machine

Purpose of Winding
• To transfer yarn from several small spinning packages to a larger package
• To enhance yarn quality by removing defects through clearing.
• To produce packages with uniform weight, length and density
v Winding is basically transferring a yarn from one type of package to another

v Winding produces a yarn package that is suitable for further processing (weaving or knitting)

v The winding process provides an opportunity to clear yarn defects. Thin and thick places, loose fibers on the yarn are
cleared during winding
Winding machine
 Warping machine

v Warping is a process of transferring many yarns from a creel of single-end packages forming a parallel sheet
of yarns wound onto a beam or a section beam.
v The warp beam that is installed on a weaving machine is called a weaver’s beam.

The main parts of beam warping machine are:

• Creel
• Package drive mechanism
• Adjustable reed
• Measuring device
 Types of warping
A. Direct Warping (Direct Beaming)
In this system the yarns are withdrawn from the single-end yarn packages on the creel and directly
wound on a beam. Direct warping is used in two ways.

q Directly producing the weaver’s beam in a single operation. This is especially suitable for strong yarns that
do not require sizing, example for continuous filament yarns. This process is called direct beaming.

q To make smaller, intermediate beams called warper’s beams which are combined later at the slashing stage
to produce the weaver’s beam. This process is called beaming
B. Indirect Warping (Sectional Warping)

§ The other names of this system are section warping or pattern warping, band warping or drum warping
§ The section beam is tapered at one end
§ Warp yarn is wound on the beam in sections starting with the tapered end of the beam
§ Each section has multiple ends traversed together slowly during winding along the length of the section
§ It is important that each layer on the beam contain the same number of yarns. The same length of yarn is wound
on each section which is measured by a measuring roller.
§ The amount of yarn wound on the beam is proportional to the length of each section and the conical angle (α)
§ This system is used for patterned fabrics
§ Ends are first wound onto a drum tapered with a given cone angle then these warp threads transferred onto a
weaver’s beam by unwinding the drum
§ In this system warp threads are not processed in sizing
C. Ball Warping
This is mainly used in manufacturing of denim fabrics.
The warp yarns are wound on a ball beam in the form of a tow for indigo dyeing.
After the dyeing process, the tow is separated and wound on a beam. Some of defects that may occur during
warping are:
 Lapped ends: which occur when the broken end is not tied to the end on the warping beam but wound
around it. It can be the result of operative carelessness or disarrangements in the machine stop motion,
when the yarn broken end is wound around the warping beam and the operative fails to find it.
 Piecing: which is occurs when one broken end is pieced to another yarn end on the warping beam and due to
operative carelessness.
 Incorrect form of build: This is caused by non-uniform spreading of ends in the guide reed and its
improper setting, incorrect shape of the warping drum or improper setting of supporting levers.
 Slackness and non-uniform tension: This is caused by improper setting of tension devices or when the
yarn escapes from under the washer.
 Incorrect warping length: which is caused by incorrect setting or troubles in the counter, improper
adjustment of measuring roller, non-uniform coating of measuring roller with felt, or when the felt is
worn out.
 Mixing up of wrong count: which is due to operative carelessness.
2.4 Monitoring warping process

 It is a set of step by step instructions compiled by an organization to help workers carry out
complex routine operations. This is to achieve efficiency, quality output and uniformity
of performance.
 Example1: The processing steps followed in yarn preparation for weaving operation may
include the following:
 2.5 Sorting waste

 Waste sorting is the process by which waste is separated into different elements.
 Waste sorting can occur manually or automatically.
 Hand sorting was the first method used in the history of waste sorting.
 A separation of waste at the beginning of the process supports the treatment of the waste and
helps to raise the efficiency of the facilities which deals with the waste.
 Wastes may become resources if they are properly segregated and utilized.
 Different wastes have different properties.
 Waste treatment procedures follow those properties to manage that waste.
Waste Classification:
 We have classified all our wastes according to different points of view. Depending on the states of the wastes,
wastes are classified as
A. Solid Waste (solid in nature).
B. Liquid Waste (such as wastewater that is mixed with different dyes & chemicals),
C. Gaseous Waste (Smoke or gas emitted from combustion channels like generators, boilers, dryers etc.)

According to the potential degree of hazard, wastes have been classified as

A. Hazardous Waste (H)
B. Low – hazardous Waste (L H)
C. Non – hazardous Waste (N H)
According to production point of view, wastes has also been classified as
A. Production Waste (Generated directly from production process).
B. Non Production Waste (Not directly associated with production).
 Generally Work place generated waste is not a waste until it is properly disposed of. It can be either a resource or
a hazard. That is why it has to be segregated as resource material or hazard substance as early as possible.
Hazardous wastes should be separated from other wastes since hazardous waste may contaminate the
potential of non-hazardous wastes.
 Self-Check – 2

 Part-I: Matching
Instruction: match column “A” with “B”. You have given 1 Minute for each question each question carries 2 point
Column –A Column –B
1. Waste Classification A. main parts of beam warping machine
2. Adjustable reed B. Indirect Warping
3.Yarn combinations C. Solid Waste (solid in nature)
4. Sectional Warping D. Direct Beaming
5. Direct Warping E. Two possible arrangements where warp is over the weft or vice versa.
 Part-II: True or False
Instruction: write “True” for correct sentences and “False” for incorrect sentences. You have given 1Minute for each question. Each
question carries 2 Point.
1. Primary elements of woven fabric design are combination of weaves and blending of colors
using such weaves.
2. Hand sorting was the second method used in the history of waste sorting.
3. A solid color is produced by employing the same color in warp and weft
 Part-III: Short answer
Instruction: write correct short answer for each of the following question .you have 10 Minute for each
question carries 2point.
1. What are the objectives warping process?
2. What are the technical Requirements of the warping Process?
3. List and explain types of warping machine.
4. Discuss purpose of winding machine?
5. List step of yarn preparation for weaving operation