Wood Magazine 281 2022

S h o c k To o l B a t t e r i e s B a c k t o L i f e p.
18
ISSUE 281 MAY 2022

¨
The World’s Most Trusted Woodworking Resource
Floating-case
Accent
Table p.24
More Great Plans

Stackable Plant Shelves p.48
Hand-tool Tote p.34
Crokinole Game p.58
Tabletop TV Stand p.62
Buyer’s Guide
to Benchtop
CNCs p.40
TAKING MEASURE Better Homes & Gardens¨
WOOD
¨
F
licking through Facebook on my phone
one recent evening, my thumb stopped
May 2022
dead in its tracks when I saw a flash of
quartersawn white oak. I was stunned by the Vol. 39, No. 2 Issue No. 281
beauty of the beast on the screen: a century- EDITORIAL CONTENT CHIEF DAVE CAMPBELL
old Edison “Chippendale” Diamond Disc
DEPUTY EDITOR CRAIG RUEGSEGGER
phonograph—in near-mint condition—for
sale at a local thrift store. As I drooled over ART DIRECTOR KARL EHLERS
the photos, I took in the carved detail in the
SENIOR DESIGN EDITOR KEVIN BOYLE
collar near the top of the cabinet… the
cathedral filigree of the horn grille… and DESIGN EDITOR JOHN OLSON
thought, “This ain’t no Bluetooth TOOLS EDITOR BOB HUNTER
speaker.”
It reminded me of the elegant architecture DIGITAL PRODUCT MANAGER LUCAS PETERS
we saw in Savannah, Georgia, on our family ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT SHERYL MUNYON
vacation last November. Corbels, capitals,
and colonnades dignified and distinguished CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER HANNAH COHEN
one building from another. But these days, CONTRIBUTING CRAFTSMEN JIM HEAVEY,
thanks in part to precast concrete and “cost BRIAN BERGSTROM
engineering,” that new building going up PHOTOGRAPHERS DERA BURRESON, JASON DONNELLY,
across the way could be a church, a strip JACOB FOX, RACHEL MAREK
mall, or a prison. At some point, we traded CONTRIBUTING EDITORS VINCENT ANCONA, ZACH BROWN,
beauty for budget, elegance for easy, pretty RANDY MAXEY, BRYAN NELSON
for practical. CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS LORNA JOHNSON,
Have you done the same in your wood- DAVID KALLEMYN, ROXANNE LEMOINE
working? Has the cost of tools and materials
Bring
PROOFREADERS SAM CADY, JOE HURST-WAJSZCZUK,
(thanks, supply chain!) put you in “build BABS KLEIN, IRA LACHER, MARK LANE
only what I have to” mode? When was the
last time you built a project not out of need ADVERTISING AND MARKETING
but because you were inspired to try a new VICE PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER SCOTT MORTIMER
back
technique? Or because you thought it looked ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE BRIAN KOSSACK
cool (with or without spousal agreement)? brian.kossack@meredith.com
Or simply for the pure joy of making some- ONLINE MEDIA KIT WOODMAGAZINE.COM/MEDIAKIT
thing spectacular? BUSINESS MANAGER DARREN TOLLEFSON
beauty
Stop worrying about the cost. Stop caring CONSUMER MARKETING MANAGER ED LICHINSKY
about whether anyone else likes it. Stop SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER SANDY WILLIAMS
making sense and start making beauty. PREPRESS DESKTOP SPECIALIST RYAN MEIER
Remember, the exercise is to enjoy the COLOR QUALITY ANALYST JOHN SANTUCCI
experience and aesthetic, not necessarily to
make something useful. If you can’t find a
home for your beautiful project, give it to an
appreciative friend, donate it to a charity
auction, or sell it to a stranger.
To download patterns from this issue,
Speaking of which, I wound up buying the visit woodmagazine.com/281patterns
Edison phonograph, and it’s even sweeter
than the photos. And totally impractical. For subscription help: Log in to woodmagazine.com/myaccount;
e-mail wdmcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com; or call 800-374-9663, option 1.
Next, I’ve got my eye on the accent table on
To contact the editors: E-mail woodmail@woodmagazine.com;
page 24: a dovetail method I’ve never tried, a write to WOOD Magazine, 1716 Locust St., LS-253, Des Moines, IA 50309;
beautiful book-matched panel, and an eye- or call 800-374-9663, option 2.
catching base. To order past articles and issues: For articles, search woodstore.net.
Perfect. For issues, visit woodmagazine.com/backissues.
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or reprint and reuse permission, email syndication@meredith.com.
See you in the shop!
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dave.campbell@meredith.com © Copyright Meredith Operations Corporation 2022. All rights reserved. Printed
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woodmagazine.com 1 these patterns is strictly prohibited.
48
IN THIS ISSUE OF WOOD
¨
MAY 2022 • IS SUE 281
PLANS TOOLS & TECHNIQUES DEPARTMENTS

24 Floating-case Accent Table 30 Home-center Hidden Gems 1 Taking Measure
Try your hand at machine-cut dovetails Look closely and you’ll find great stuff Bring back beauty.
without expensive jigs. at the big-box stores for woodworking. 4 Wood-Wide Web
34 Hand-tool Tote 40 Buying Guide to Benchtop CNC Shop Tips: A curated retrospective.
Customize this carryall to organize and Smaller footprints—and prices—bring 6 Sounding Board
protect your most-used tools. big-time precision to the home shop. Your voice, your projects, your shop.
48 Light, Bright Plant Stand 52 Meet the Joinery Dream Team 18 Ask WOOD
Add elegance and functionality to your These prime-time players add precious Shock dead batteries back to life.
sunroom or multiseason porch. mettle to your joinery game.
20 Shop Tips
58 Crokinole Board 66 Work Wonders with Waxes Take a stand for storage, and more.
This game of skill blends bumper pool Add “pop” to your projects with these
with curling for fabulous family fun. super-simple finishes. 79 What’s Ahead
A sneak peek at your next WOOD.
62 TV Stand 70 Tools & Materials
Upgrade your flat-screen’s flimsy feet Top shop supplies, simple-but-accurate
with a sturdy support. mitering jigs, and more.
2
52
40
34
58
30
3
WOOD-WIDE WEB
WOODMAGA ZINE.COM Chair rung
Place strips and tenons into
SHOP TIPS: A CURATED holes overnight to dry.

Soak veneer in water
FINE-ART RETROSPECTIVE overnight. Chair leg
Veneer
Behold the Shop Tip. A collaborative art form between strip
reader, editor, and illustrator that draws the viewer in,
inspiring and inviting future cycles of collaboration in an
unending circle of expression. Focused, but evocative.
Impressionistic, without devolving into cartoonishness.
And transcendently informative. We collect and present Drill holes into Chair-rung
scrap stock to tenon
here a gallery of paradigmatic examples, representing the place veneer
strips into.
various epochs in the evolution of Shop Tip illustration.
Experience the full virtual gallery at woodmagazine.com/
shoptips.
Emergent period. The ‘90s saw the integration of computers into

the design world—a melding of human ingenuity and robot efficiency,
fully embraced and explored by illustrator Kim Downing. The gradient
backgrounds and boldly outlined shapes, above, hint at the imminent,
emerging electronic future, even as the subject depicts the traditional
craft of chairmaking. woodmagazine.com/emergent
Early modern. Kurt

Schultz burst onto the
SIDE VIEW
Shop Tip scene with
CROSS
SECTION
a boldness heretofore
Organic era. We don’t know Art Hoff, unseen. Attention to
but we know what we like. And we liked
Cut away holster
sides to allow
trigger access.
detail his calling card,
his drill-storage tip, above, awarding it a Schultz painted in
Top Tip prize in late 2006, here lovingly textures and shadows
illustrated by Tim Cahill. Note the line work Fit holster to
that create a hyper-
keep nailer plumb
on the hands, evoking movement and life,

and square.
realistic portrayal,
as well as the extreme background detail, whether the subject is
characteristic of Cahill’s Shop Tip period. rectilinear or contoured—
woodmagazine.com/organic skillfully depicted in
this tip, concerning a
pneumatic nailer guide.
Spacer
block woodmagazine.com/
earlymodern
Contemporary. Modern and traditional are married in the

bold lines and vivid colors executed by current Tips illustrator
David Kallemyn. A return to background minimalism and a
reductionist color palette intensify reader focus, demanding
urgent attention to only the most consequential elements.
“Clamp! Strut! Wood! Glue!” That is all you need to know
about this tip.
woodmagazine.com/contemporary
½"x 5½" bolt
with washers
and wingnuts
4 WOOD magazine May 2022

SOUNDING BOARD
YOUR VOICE
Heirloom dooms bear chairs

I was all prepped to make a set of Teddy Bear few months, so every family now has a rocker
Rocking Chairs from the plans in issue 66 (De- that will see a lot of use over the next few years.
cember 1993). But as my wife was paging I will likely still make the teddy bear version some-
through issue 278 (November 2021), she saw the day, but for now, I need to get started on making
Heirloom Child’s Rocker plans and said, “You some bunk beds for all of these little ones to Now that’s using your head
HAVE to make these.” sleep in when they come visit Papa and Nanna. I appreciated the Dust-collection Hacks article in
So I did. Thanks for the great plans! issue 273 (March 2021) and Dave’s own “hack”
I currently have five grandchildren, and each of —Gerry Pavlik for finding his dust collector’s remote control in
my three children is expecting a new baby in a Big Lake, Minn. “Taking Measure.” I tried clipping my collector’s
remote to my belt, but most of the time I would
forget it in the house and have to go back and
get it at the most inconvenient time.
My solution was to clip the remote instead to
Stringing
my hearing protectors, as shown above, which I
never take back into the house. Whenever I reach
for my hearing protectors, I simply push the re-
mote button to fire up the collector.
Bending form —Guy Groulx
Fort Worth, Texas
Connect with us
facebook.com/ twitter.com/
woodmagazine WOOD_magazine
pinterest.com/ instagram.com/
Going on a bender suits this tray to a tea woodmagazine woodmagazine
I just completed making a few of the Tea Trays this made inlaying them so much easier, and not
E-mail woodmail@woodmagazine.com; or write to
featured in issue 264 (November 2019), and al- a single one cracked.
WOOD magazine, 1716 Locust St., LS-253, Des Moines, IA
though challenging, they were fun to make. My Love your magazine! It’s by far the best on the
50309; or call 800-374-9663, option 2.
version varies from yours: I used purpleheart for market, and the illustrations are fantastic. Thanks.
one of the berries in my clusters and added a —Pete OToole WOOD® magazine never uses outside parties to
cluster to each corner. Fayetteville, N.C. solicit subscription renewals. The safest, easiest way
to renew your subscription is with a credit card
While working on the project, I struggled with online at woodmagazine.com/myaccount. If you
the maple stringing breaking as I bent it in place. To buy plans for the Tea Tray, have questions about a renewal offer you’ve
To make it more pliable, I soaked the stringing in simply point your smartphone’s received, please call our customer service line at
water for a few hours, then clamped each piece camera at this code, or visit 800-374-9663, and select option 1.
We’re happy to help.
into a form, shown above right, overnight. Doing woodstore.net/teatray.
6 continued on page 8 WOOD magazine May 2022
SOUNDING BOARD
YOUR VOICE
Holder lends a hand

The Tablet Holder plan in issue 276 (September As always, you’ve hit a home run with your
2021) came at the perfect time: A dear friend well-laid-out plans and ingenious ideas. Keep
was about to start bone-cancer treatment and them coming!
would be confined to bed- and chair-rest for —Mike Aschenbrenner
several weeks, so I made one to make her time Westminster, Colo.
easier. She loved it!
In order to support not
just a tablet but a book
(or, perhaps, a well-known
woodworking magazine!) I
upsized the panel to
10×14". I also added felt
feet so the holder could rest
on a table without marring
the surface, and I made the
panel removable so it could
be stored easier.
Face-shield recognition
In your short article on respirator ratings (“Ask
Something for WOOD,” issue 275, July 2021), you neglected to
everyone mention that facial hair prevents the respirator
Just wanted to drop you a note to from forming a tight seal with the skin. Without
say I appreciate WOOD® maga- that seal, it can’t keep out dust or fumes. If you
zine’s balance of new techniques, have facial hair, the only effective respirator is a
tool reviews, CNC ideas, plans for furniture and, face shield that supplies outside air.
yes, even the lowly workbench. After 50 years in —Jon Rouleau
the craft, I still get a kick out of a new design for a Geneseo, N.Y.
workbench or shop storage. For old and new alike,
the exchange of ideas is important. Not all of us are You are correct, Jon, that even just a few days’
designers; many are happy being just “doers.” worth of beard stubble prevents a respirator from
Thanks, and keep up the great work. forming an airtight seal around the mouth and
—Larry Spiewak nose. Face shields that supply a filtered flow of
Milwaukee outside air cover the entire face, making them
more comfortable for hirsute woodworkers with
short beards.
Overhead projector However, these face shields (at least the ones
Please be more realistic with the shops you marketed to woodworkers) are generally not clas-
showcase in the “Your Shop” section of the sified as respirators, nor are they NIOSH-approved
magazine. The greater majority of woodworkers for protection against fine dust particles, vapors,
have only 8' ceilings. and fumes. So, to achieve sufficient protection
—Robert Scharf from a respirator, you’ll have to lather up and lose
via e-mail the beard.
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past, that has involved a slew of clamps or
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SOUNDING BOARD
YOUR PROJECTS
Chris Banta, of Thousand Oaks, Calif., designed and fabricated this bass marimba, with bars made from quartersawn
African padauk. To assemble each hard-maple resonator, Chris glued and clamped the mitered parts by hand, using a
swirling motion (a “rub” joint) to ensure no air leakage, which could affect the tone of the bar.
After 48 years of waiting, Gary Dean, of Prince George, B.C.,

finally built the dining room table his wife had been wanting. The
walnut apron and banding supports and surrounds the mountain-ash
tabletop, which Gary harvested from a neighbor’s fallen tree.
Working from a photo his wife provided, Rich Higgins, of Cape Coral, Fla., fashioned
this jewelry box from bubinga and bird’s-eye maple. He finished it with four coats of Tried
Following a YouTube video, Dolan Burreson, of Decorah, & True (triedandtruewoodfinish.com) and a request that he not be required to fill it
Iowa, created this cross-generational cooler stand out of fir with jewelry.
flooring, reclaimed from his grandmother’s old farmhouse,
10 mixed with scrap from construction of his new house. continued on page 12 WOOD magazine May 2022
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SOUNDING BOARD
YOUR PROJECTS
Dennis Cheney, of Clarks Hill, Ind., borrowed only

the bench portion of the Farmhouse Table plans in
issue 270 (October 2020) to build this one for his
daughter’s dining room. He made it from salvaged
Dave Rushlo, of Tempe, Ariz., carved this buffalo in basswood and painted it with watercolor. This isn’t the first time his red and white oak he had stashed away for more
work has graced these pages: Dave carved several projects for WOOD¨ magazine in the 1990s. than 30 years.
For the seventh birthday of his daughter, Dani, Greg Pfeiffer, of

Colorado Springs, Colo., crafted 10 unique playhouse “shells” that
guests decorated at her party using dollhouse flooring, shingles,
and wallpaper on the 1∕4" Baltic birch walls and roof. Greg made
some shells “mirror image” so BFFs could put them together as a
double-wide house for playtime.
Send us a photo of your work

Want to see your work showcased in WOOD¨magazine?
Send a high-resolution digital photo of your completed
project to woodmail@woodmagazine.com. Len Kasang, of Long Beach, Calif., completed the conversion of a spare room to a sewing room with this queen-size
Murphy bed and worktable. When guests arrive, the table folds and stores beneath the bed.
w dst re.net/wa
SOUNDING BOARD
YOUR SHOP
Doubly Beneficial Shop

With his spacious standalone workshop, Mitchell Scott can
run two tablesaws with different setups (crosscuts and rips,
or cuts and dadoes, for example).
W
hen Mitchell Scott informed his Clamp racks Vacuum Dust-collector filter Dust collector
wife that a new dust collector would Clamp
have to be installed on her side of his rack
garage shop, she very strongly suggested that Belt Downdraft
sander table Spindle
Drum sander Air
he construct a separate outbuilding instead. FINISHING sander compressor
And that she’d like new kitchen cabinets. So, ROOM
Air
as any smart spouse would do, Mitchell got Workbench filter
busy designing and building.
Planer
With two each of bandsaws, planers, Bookcase Hand-tool Tablesaw
tablesaws, and router tables, he spent a cou- cabinet Planer Miter-
ple of years planning the layout of the tools, Router/drill-bit saw
light fixtures, and electrical needs. He cabinet Jointer
accounted for 8' infeed and outfeed space
around each major tool, plus stock support Radial-arm 40'
Desk saw
for his mitersaw to accommodate 8' boards. Router table Bandsaw
Outfeed table Lathe
After a contractor erected the 1,600 sq. ft. Router
wood-frame structure, Mitchell walled off table Air Tablesaw
three corner rooms: one for lumber storage, filter Fridge
a finishing room, and a closet that isolates Pocket-
the air compressor and dust collector. joinery Cutoffs
table
Mitchell worked with Oneida Air Systems
WOOD
to design the dust-collection system. Before Buffer STORAGE
Radial-arm
the insulation and drywall went in, Mitchell Scrollsaw Bandsaw drill press Grinder
routed 8", 7", 6", and 4" ducts through the attic Sheet goods
to the closet that houses the 5-hp cyclone. A
sensor activates a blue strobe light in the shop 40'
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SOUNDING BOARD
YOUR SHOP
Mitchell’s new energy-efficient and low-maintenance workshop offers lots of space

for his collection of tools.
The crosscut mitersaw station accommodates 8' boards on either side of the blade.
The radial-arm saw at one end shares the benchtop for stock support.
when the collection drum fills up; a differen-

tial pressure gauge on the wall alerts him
when the filter needs cleaning.
Mitchell also plumbed compressed-air
lines in the walls. A 3⁄4" copper header in the
attic feeds six drops of 1⁄2" copper lines, with
an additional line supplying the finishing
room. Each line terminates with a quick-
disconnect and two isolation valves (one for
condensate drainage, one for air supply).
Mitchell installed air regulators in the fin-
ishing room and at the front door of the
shop. Other lines run at header pressure,
regulated by the compressor setting.
For electrical service Mitchell installed a
200-amp, 40-circuit supply panel. The panel
features dedicated circuits for each 220-volt
tool and one circuit for Mitchell’s radial-
arm saw—the first major woodworking tool
he purchased. The remainder of the power
tools tap into separate 110-volt circuits. Six
circuits with motion-detection switches
feed the many fluorescent light fixtures.
Mitchell hired out the HVAC, insulation,
and drywall work. He took care of the paint-
Curtain
Good lighting and bright-white walls make shop time easy on the eyes, and floor
mats aid the feet. Curtains around the dust-collection filter, on the right, tame noise.
French cleats hold pushblocks, fences, and jigs for Mitchell’s router tables. He also
built a dedicated workstation for his pocket-hole jig.
ing and interior trim himself, then installed

the lighting fixtures, receptacles, and quick-
disconnects for compressed air. Once he
placed the major tools in their final locations,
he completed the dust-collector ceiling drops
with blast gates. With so much wall space
available, Mitchell installed French cleats for
hanging clamps, jigs, and project patterns.
The primary benefit of all of Mitchell’s
hard work building his shop is a happy mar-
riage. He has a fully functional, efficient
workshop. His wife has her garage back ...
and new kitchen cabinets.
Show us
your shop
Send high-resolution
digital photos of your
shop to
woodmail@
Retired from an electric utility company after 33 years, woodmagazine.com
Mitchell likes to spend time in his shop. “My true passion and we may showcase it
is building boxes, furniture, and cabinets,” he says. in the magazine!
woodmagazine.com 17
ASK WOOD
YOUR QUESTIONS
Q
Shock dead batteries back to life
I have a cordless-drill battery that will no jump start. To do this, you’ll need a second,
longer hold a charge. I know better than to fully charged battery of the same voltage.
just toss the battery in the trash, but how Connect wire leads from the healthy battery
and where can I get rid of it? to the questionable battery, as shown below.
—Tom Heyob, Beulah, Wyo. After waiting a minute or two, remove the
A
leads and place the dead battery back on
You’re spot-on about not throwing dead the charger to see if it will start charging.
cordless-tool batteries into the landfill, If it does, allow it to top off completely
Tom. Rechargeable batteries contain heavy before use.
metals, such as cadmium, mercury, and After determining the
lead, which can leach into the soil positive and negative
terminals (usually
and contaminate the ground- marked with a + and –),
water. Recycling batteries is connect wires from
the safe, responsible way to positive to positive and
dispose of them. Many home Negative terminal negative to negative.
Tip! Find a battery centers and office-supply
drop-off location near stores offer free battery drop- Positive terminal
you at off points for recycling
call2recycle.org. rechargeable batteries.
Before sending your old
batteries into the great beyond,
however, make sure they’re
really dead and not just in a
coma. Most chargers won’t rec-
ognize a completely drained Have a question?
battery, even though it may be healthy oth- Drop us an e-mail.
erwise. If you have a discharged battery that askwood@
won’t take a charge, try reviving it with a woodmagazine.com
D R E A M I T.
D y mp S
S AW I T.
y l l m
B U I L D I T.
k f , ,&m !
Hotel reception desk designed, milled and made by Kyle Snellenberger, Louisiana
1 5 S AW M I L L M O D E L S
X25 $
3,995*
Financing Available!
woodmizer.com
©
SINCE 1982 866 238 4425
SHOP TIPS
WORK FASTER,
SMARTER, SAFER
TOP
SHOP
TIP
Lock nuts
Angle iron
stretchers
Take a stand for additional storage space

The metal tool stand that came with my holes through the verticals of the angle iron
drum sander left a lot of wasted space and stand legs. Offset the holes to allow
underneath. And, there were no stretchers at clearance for the caster stem. Make the con-
the bottom to support a storage cabinet. nections with bolts and lock nuts. Install the
With a few pieces of angle iron (or alumi- casters by drilling holes through the hori-
num angle), it’s easy to create a sturdy frame. zontal legs of the angle iron and secure them
Adding a set of casters to make it mobile is with washers and nuts. All that’s left to do
icing on the cake. now is build a storage cabinet to sit on the
Start by cutting the stretchers to fit bottom frame.
between the tool-stand legs (inset). Before —Tom Brumback, Alleman, Iowa
bolting the stretchers to the tool stand, drill
Tips earn up
to $150.
If your tip is the best of the issue,
it wins Top Shop Tip honors, For sending this issue’s
and you receive a tool prize worth Top Shop Tip, Tom
receives a Metabo HPT
at least $300. 18-volt brad nailer
Send your tip, photos or drawings, worth $350.
and contact info to
shoptips@woodmagazine.com
Because we try to publish original tips,
please send yours only to WOOD magazine.
®

SHOP TIPS
Well-adjusted helper lends support in the shop
I find moving and lifting sheet goods and large pieces of lumber difficult
when I’m working alone in the shop. After a trip to the home center, I
brought home a new “shop assistant:” a Husky adjustable-height work-
table ($200, homedepot.com). My 46"-long table adjusts from 29" to 42"
in height and features a flat, hardwood top, so I can set it up as infeed or
outfeed support for my jointer, planer, and tablesaw. It rolls on locking
casters, allowing me to unload lumber from my truck and transport
workpieces between machines. It also serves as an extra staging
surface when I have lots of project parts to organize. It has
become an indispensable helper in the shop.
—Bill Ibbotson, New Braunfels, Texas
Crank adjusts
height of table.
Sandpaper
adhered to blade
Tool hack shakes up detail sanding
For sanding those tight, almost unreachable parts of
an assembled project, I repurposed a used flush-
cutting blade from my oscillating multitool and
converted the blade to a sanding tool.
After removing pitch and grime from the old
blade and grinding off the teeth, I secured a piece of
sandpaper around the end using spray adhesive. This
“detail sander” makes quick work in tight spaces.
—Keith Kroma, Menomonie, Wis.
woodmagazine.com 21
SHOP TIPS
Have a blast with
dust control
I use PVC pipe for dust collec-
tion in my shop, with drops Slot cut halfway through
placed near my tools. Before diameter of duct; width
matches thickness of
gluing the fittings, I made inex- gate material.
pensive plywood blast gates, as
shown at right. Radius equals inside
I started by cutting slots in radius of duct.
the PVC for each gate using a
tall auxiliary fence on my table-
saw’s miter gauge. This keeps
the pipe stable and square dur-
ing the cut.
Next, I made a pattern for the
blast gate and traced it onto
plywood and then and band-
sawed the gates to shape. Insert
the convex end of the gate as
shown to close the duct; flip it
around to the concave end to
open the duct while keeping the
slot sealed. Distance between
—Kenneth Barkley, Jupiter, Fla. notches equals outside
diameter of duct.
Get tighter miters with

a sanding slider
I think every woodworker struggles to get
gap-free joints when assembling mitered
frames. This simple jig fits on my benchtop
sander to fine-tune the fit of the joints. End of fence fixed
The base of the jig includes a miter bar with wood screw
that rides in the slot of the sander’s table. from the bottom
You can make this bar out of PVC sheet
stock or hardwood.
I attached the fence to the base with a
wood screw near the end closest to the
sander. A slot in the opposite end allows for Fence attached with
tweaking the angle of the fence to sneak up ¼ x 2" carriage bolt
counterbored in
on a gap-free miter joint. A 1∕4" washer and bottom of base
wing nut on a carriage bolt locks the angle of
the fence.
The beauty of this jig is that I can use it
with the sander off by sliding the jig back
and forth. Turning the sander on removes Slot allows for
adjustment of
stock faster. fence angle.
—Phil ORourke, Pittsfield, Mass.

SHOP TIPS
Drop a dowel to determine dust level
I love my cyclone dust collector, but I could never tell when its col-
lection barrel needed to be emptied. So I epoxied a PVC reducing
bushing over the bung hole of the drum lid and threaded on a PVC
ball valve as shown.
To check the sawdust level in the drum, I simply open the valve
and insert a dowel. If I can see the “full” line I’ve scribed on the
dowel when I feel resistance from the dust pack, I know it’s time to
empty the barrel.
—Bill Huber, Fort Worth, Texas
Pin hooks into

catch when Dowel
stored. marked to
show when
drum is full
¾" PVC ball valve

Swing arm FULL
Foot pedal
power control
1x¾"
reducing
bushing
Fold-up pedal lifts to free floor

space Collection
drum
After replacing my scrollsaw’s open-base
stand with a wall-mounted one to make
cleaning the floor easier, I had to address the
machine’s foot pedal. Not only did it get in
the way while I cleaned up, it also scooted
freely on the floor when in use. I solved both
problems with this swing-down arm. Now I
can pivot the pedal up and out of the way
when I sweep up, and it stays in place when
I’m using it.
—Dan Martin, Galena, Ohio
woodmagazine.com 23
Floating-Case Accent Table Shop-made jigs make seamless
dovetails a cinch.
Approximate
D I M E N S I O N S :
21" W × 20 9∕16" D × 24" H
materials cost:
$240
20
Dovetails

A EXPLODED VIEW
Magnetic Rout dovetails with

catch shop-made jigs.
C E
H
F D
B
Foot assembly
set back1¼" I
and centered
side-to-side.
Figure-8
J fastener I
I
I
#6 x ¾" F.H. screw
C
reating large through-dovetails often Supersized dovetails
requires an expensive jig or mad
hand-tool skills. For this project, you
won’t need either. Instead, make your own
1 Glue up and cut to size panels for the top
and bottom (A) and sides (B) [Exploded
View, Drawing 1, Materials List]. Glue up an extra
Tip! Cut the panels for
the top, bottom, and
sides (A, B) 1∕16" longer
templates to rout flawless dovetail joints. panel of the same width to use as a test piece. than shown. Then cut
the dovetails 1∕32" proud
of the surface and plane
or sand them flush after
1 PARTS VIEW
assembly.
5/8"
¼" hole 20" 1a DOVETAIL DETAIL

3/8"deep
20"
B
A 2" B
20"
17" 2"
1½" 1½" A
8"
2¾" 5/8" ¾" rabbet
1/8"deep
Top View 5/8" Side View ½"
11/8" 1¾"
woodmagazine.com 25
½"-dia. hole
Tail template
Stopblock
Waste
A B
After drilling out the corners, use a stopblock to space the cuts for the fingers, flipping the workpiece end for end between cuts to keep
the fingers centered and symmetrically spaced. Then remove the remainder of the waste at the bandsaw.
2 Laminate 1∕2" plywood to make two

1×6×20" dovetail template blanks. On
one of the blanks, lay out and cut to shape
a top-bearing dovetail bit, rout the tails on
one end of the panel [Photo C]. Repeat the
process on the opposite end, and on both
Tip! Make a light
scoring pass with the bit
before routing the tails
the fingers for the tail-routing template ends of the bottom panel (A). to avoid tear-out.
[Drawing 2, Photos A, B]. Laminate plywood for
the fence and attach it to the template. 4 Retrieve the second template blank and
draw a baseline 3∕4" from one edge. Clamp
3 Center the tail template on one end of the

top panel (A) and clamp it in place. Using
one of the panels (A) along this baseline and
scribe the shape of the tails [Drawing 3, Photo D].
R=1" 2 TAIL-ROUTING JIG R=1" 3 PIN-ROUTING JIG
6" 6"
¼" round-over
¼" round-over
6" 1¾" 6" 1¾"
20" 20"
2" ½"
#8 x1¼"
F.H. screw R=¼" #8 x1¼" 2"
F.H. screw
2¾" ½" 1½"
1¼" 1½"
13/8"
A A
14˚ dovetail bit
with bearing 25∕32"
¾"
Tail template
Pin-routing
template blank
C D
With the top (A) clamped to the template, ease the workpiece into the bit, taking Trace the tails onto the pin template blank. Using a square and bevel gauge,
1∕4"-deep passes until the bearing rides against the fingers of the template. extend the lines to the end of the template and around the other side.
Pin template
Blade tilted to 14˚ Backer board attached

to miter gauge Waste
E Pin template
With the blade tilted 14° and raised 2" above the tabletop, make a series of F
cuts on your layout lines to define the fingers of the template. Finish removing the waste between the fingers at the bandsaw.
Test piece
A
¾" flush-trim bit 21∕32"
Pin template Test piece
H
G The top and bottom (A) should stand proud of the test piece. Rabbeting the
Clamp the test piece to the pin template and rout a row of pins. bottom face before assembling the joints brings them flush.
5 Remove the waste between the fingers of

the template [Photos E, F]. Screw (no glue)
the fence to the template.
8 Using a router and edge guide, rabbet the
inside faces of the top and bottom (A)
[Drawing 1a, Photo I]. Cut 1∕4" grooves in the top
Note: Move the fence
closer to the ends of the 6 Clamp your test panel to the pin-routing
template. Using a top-bearing pattern
and bottom (A) for the back (C) [Drawing 1]. Cut
1∕4" stopped grooves in the sides (B) [Photo J].
fingers to loosen the fit

or farther away for a
tighter fit.
bit, rout pins on one end [Photo G]. Test the fit
of the joint [Photo H] and if necessary, adjust
the location of the fence on the pin- routing
9 Drill shelf-pin holes in the sides (B) [Draw-
ing 1]. Dry-assemble the top, bottom, and
sides and cut the back panel (C) 1∕2" longer
Watch a video on four
different ways to make
shelf-pin holes.
template to tweak the fit. and wider than the opening. Glue and clamp woodmagazine.com/
Note: When routing
the pins, clamp the
inside face of the work-
7 Cut the end off your test piece and rout a
new row of pins after each adjustment.
Once you are satisfied with the fit, rout the
the sides to the bottom (A). With the glue
dry, slide the back in place and glue the top
(A) to the sides, using plenty of clamps to
shelfpinholes
piece against the fence. pins on the ends of the sides (B). pull the dovetail joints tight.
Edge guide Edge guide
½"
I J
Using a straight bit and edge guide, trim the inside face of the dovetails so the Rout a groove for the back (C) in the top, bottom, and sides. On the sides (B),
top and bottom panels (A) fit flush with the sides (B). stop the groove short of the ends.
woodmagazine.com 27
Add a dressed-up door
1 Cut to size the door stiles (D) and rails (E)
[Drawing 4, Materials List]. Machine a cen-
tered groove in one edge of all four pieces.
2 Form tenons on the ends of the door rails

(E) [Drawing 4a]. I
3
Edge guide
Learn how to resaw a Glue up and cut to size the door panel (F).
board to create a book- Finish-sand the panel and apply a finish.
matched panel.
woodmagazine.com/
bandsaw-resawing
4 With the finish on the door panel dry, glue
and clamp the door assembly, allowing the
panel to float freely. Once the glue dries, check
K
Rout the mortises using an edge guide and a 1∕4" spiral upcut bit. Flip the
the fit of the door in the case. If necessary, workpiece around between passes to center the mortise.
trim the door with a block plane to create an
even reveal on all four edges.
5 Cut a 10"-long blank for the door pull (G).

Tilt your saw blade to 14° and bevel-rip
6 Glue up and cut to size a panel for the
shelf (H) [Exploded View]. Set the shelf aside
while finishing up the rest of the cabinet.
the edges [Drawing 4b]. Leaving the blade Learn to enlarge
tilted, cut the handle to length at both ends. A solid footing gridded patterns.
4 DOOR
Lay out and drill holes in the door for the
catch, hinges, and pull [Drawing 4]. 1 Use the gridded pattern [Drawing 5] to cre-
ate a full-size paper template of the foot.
woodmagazine.com/
griddedpattern
131/8"
Magnetic
catch plate 5 GRIDDED
E FOOT PATTERN
2"
13"
183/8"
2½"
F no-mortise hinge I
161/8" D
D
G
Center pull
on D .
10½"
½ x 1¾" mortise
¾" deep,
centered on width
2"
E
1½" ¼" grooves 3/8" deep,
1½" centered
4a TENON DETAIL 4b DOOR PULL

¼" groove 3/8" deep, 2½" ¾"
centered 21/8"
¼"
3/8" G 9/16"
E 3/8" 14° bevel 14° bevel

Side View End View One square = ½"
11/8"
Select and cut to size four blanks for the feet
(I). Lay out the profiles and mortises on each
foot blank, rout the mortises [Photo K], and
square up the ends of the mortises.
Tip! Save the waste
pieces created when 2 At the bandsaw, cut the curved profiles.
Sand the edges smooth. J
3
Waste
bandsawing the feet to Cut to size the stretchers (J) [Drawing 6].
use as clamping cauls. Form tenons on the ends of the stretchers
to fit the mortises in the feet [Drawing 6a, Photo L].
4 Drill counterbores on the top edges of the

stretchers [Drawing 6]. Glue and clamp the feet
and stretchers into two identical assemblies.
L
Cut the tenon shoulders on the tablesaw, then make the cheek cuts at the
bandsaw.
Finishing touches
1 Trim the dovetails flush with the case,
then finish-sand the case, shelf, door, and
3 Screw figure-8 fasteners to the stretchers
(J). Clamp the foot assemblies to the
cabinet [Exploded View] and fasten the figure-8
foot assemblies. fasteners to the cabinet.
2 Apply a finish to all parts. We applied

four coats of Danish oil, rubbing out the
finish between coats with a fine synthetic
4 Mount the door to the case, and add the
door pull and magnetic catch. Install
shelf pins, and add the shelf. Then find a
abrasive pad. suitable spot to place your cabinet.
Produced by Vince Ancona with John Olson
Project design: Kevin Boyle
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine, Lorna Johnson
I
6 FOOT ASSEMBLY
6a TENON DETAIL
½" 1/8"
I ¾" counterbores
1/8" deep 1/8"
¾"
J 1/8"
2" J
19" 1½" 1¾" 1¾"
1/8"
Cutting Diagram
B A B A H
¾ x 5½ x 96" White oak (4 needed)
D E
Materials List FINISHED SIZE
¾ x 3½ x 36" White oak Part T W L Matl. Qty.
3∕4"
C A* top/bottom 20" 17" WO 2
B* sides 3∕4" 20" 20"
F F WO 2
¼ x 24 x 24" Oak plywood C back 1∕4" 16" 19" OP 1
¼ x 7¼ x 36" Walnut D door stiles 3∕4" 11∕2" 183∕8" WO 2
*G 3∕4" 11∕2" 131∕8"
J J E door rails WO 2
F door panel 1∕4" 13" 161∕8" W 1
¾ x 3½ x 48" Walnut * Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Materials List.
G* door pull 9∕16" 3∕4" 21∕2" W 1
I I I I H shelf 3∕4" 181∕2" 153∕8" WO 1
1½ x 3½ x 48" Walnut I* feet 11∕2" 13∕4" 101∕2" W 4

J stretchers 3∕4" 2" 19" W 2
This project requires 17 board feet of 4/4 white oak, 2 square feet of
¼" walnut, 2 board feet of 4/4 walnut, and 3 board feet of 8/4 walnut. *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
Materials key: WO–white oak, OP–oak plywood, W–walnut.
Supplies: 21∕2" no-mortise hinges (2), magnetic door catch (1), 1∕4"
shelf pins (4), figure-8 fasteners (6), #8×11∕4" flathead screws, #6×3∕4"
flathead screws.
Bits: 14° dovetail bit with bearing, 3∕4" flush-trim bit with top bearing,
woodmagazine.com 1∕4" spiral bit.
29
Hidden Gems at
the Home Center
Look beyond the 2 4s and plumbing fixtures to find
the woodworking supplies you want and need.
N
ot to be snobby, but I rarely shop at a home center for woodworking tools
and materials, unless it’s for a few extra screws or a can of finish for a
project I’m working on. Even then, I usually know what I want, so I get
in, get it, and get out.
But with more time on my hands the past several months, I’ve lingered longer,
roaming the aisles, and discovered there’s a whole lot more there for woodwork-
ers than I expected. Here are a few sometimes-surprising ways to get the most
woodworking value from your trip to these DIYer destinations.
by Jim Heavey
30 WOOD magazine March 2022
A B
Before investing in a large tool purchase, see and play with models at the home Measure and mark precisely with tools such as these calipers, contour gauge,
center. How do the controls work? Do they feel well-built? What accessories exist? angle gauge, compass, and steel rules.
C D E
Home centers offer a wide variety of pro-quality Find quality router bits in the most commonly I didn’t know home centers stocked Forstner bits,
clamps, from one-handed quick clamps to F-style needed profiles and even specialty bits, along with but here’s a set with every size a woodworker may
clamps and parallel-jaw clamps. several router jigs, in the tool aisle. ever need. Find individual bits as well.
Tons of tools
Different stores, even Besides portable tools, such as cordless drills
within the same chain, and circ saws, you can outfit a full shop with
stock different items. benchtop tools such as a bandsaw, tablesaw,
Regional differences planer, jointer, drill press, and mitersaw
also affect selection. [Photo A]. And instead of reading between the
lines of anonymous online reviews, at a
home center you can actually touch a poten-
tial purchase and compare it with similar
offerings from other manufacturers.
Looking past the rough-work hammers,
hacksaws, and chalklines, you can find a F
good selection of precision layout tools A moisture meter takes the guesswork out of determining whether air-dried
lumber is ready for working.
[Photo B] and clamps [Photo C] perfect for
woodworking. If one of your go-to router Wondering when you can start building
bits has dulled, go to the home center for a something out of that slab you cut from a Learn how to air-dry
replacement [Photo D]. While browsing this storm-felled tree? Pick up a moisture meter fresh-cut lumber.
area of the store, I came across a wide selec- [Photo F] at the home center to know when it’s woodmagazine.com/
tion of Forstner bits, as well [Photo E]. dry enough. airdry
woodmagazine.com 31
Finishes are just the start
The paint aisle contains a wide variety of
finishes from paint to poly, plus stains,
wood fillers, and solvents of every type.
You’ll find a wide selection of adhesives, too
[Photo G]. Pick up a roll of rosin paper to roll
out over your bench before a glue-up or
when applying finish to catch drips.
Hard-to-find hardware G
As with portable hand tools, choosing the Find adhesives, from PVA and polyurethane glues to spray adhesive, in a variety
right drawer slides, hinges, pulls, and catches of sizes, plus contact cement, CA glue, and syringes of epoxy for small jobs.
becomes much easier when you can try them area with specialty hardware, where you’ll
out, see the actual size, and select from a vari- find threaded inserts, knobs for jigs, brass
ety of choices side by side [Photos H, I, J]. and stainless steel screws, shelf pins, bush-
And near where they stock bulky boxes of ings, and dozens more items you didn’t even
bolts and screws, home centers provide an know you needed [Photo K].
H I
Some stores have demo drawers where you can compare the movement and Quickly look over and compare a wide selection of pulls. Wrap your fingers
travel length of slides to determine which type best suits your needs. around them to see if they feel right.
J K
Precisely position pulls with this jig that provides a drilling template for nearly Knockdown fasteners? Yep. T-nuts? Here. Figure-8 fasteners? Check. The
every pull made. specialty hardware aisle holds many undiscovered treasures for the woodworker.
Beyond construction lumber leisure—something not always possible at a

If you feel a bit intimidated ordering stock at a yard that outfits professional cabinetmakers
hardwood dealer or sawmill, some home cen- [Photo L]. Even venerable pine comes in a Learn to find the best
ters carry hardwoods such as oak, poplar, variety of grades from #2—with its knots lumber in a stack.
maple, and regional species. In the home cen- and imperfections—through select, a cabi- woodmagazine.com/
ter, you can inspect and pick material at your net grade with distinctive grain and figure. lumberlessons
32 WOOD magazine March 2022
L
In addition to standard 3⁄4"-thick stock, some
stores stock 5/4, 1⁄2", and 1⁄4" material. Milled to M N
S4S (both faces and edges surfaced square), it Glue up two or more stair treads to make a beautiful To line a blanket chest or humidor, look for
makes the perfect choice if you don’t have a jointer tabletop. The 111⁄2"-wide panels come in several lengths clear Eastern red cedar boards packaged as
or planer. up to 48". tongue-and-groove boards.
P
O Cheaper and sturdier than cedar, cedar-tone Q
Rough-sawn pine boards, dyed to look weathered, pressure-treated lumber won’t need a finish, and Ready-to-use legs and feet add turned elegance to
create the farmhouse look right out of the bin. looks better than typical green treated lumber. a project, even if you don’t own a lathe.
R S
Delicate moldings provide simple to intricate profiles, ready to install. Dress up a project with corbels, plinths, or a scrolled and carved appliqué.
Some of the best-looking lumber I found was details that you may not have the time or
stair treads [Photo M]. The clear, straight grain tools to create.
makes a great top for a table or chest. And you’ll Just down from the rough sheathing and
find clear cedar packaged nearby [Photo N]. OSB, you may find hardwood cabinet-grade
If someone asks you to build something with plywood. One store near me stocks maple,
the look of rustic barn boards [Photo O], head oak, and birch; another even has prefinished
for the lumber aisle rather than sneak out to plywood. Some of these come in partial
some farmer’s lot. Most anyone would have a sheets to save money.
tough time telling these from the real thing. Wondering how to get a load of lumber,
For your next outdoor project, consider sheet goods, or other large items home with
cedar-tone treated pine [Photo P]. Dyed to look no truck? No problem. Some box stores offer
like cedar, it provides rot resistance, like green truck rental, from pickups to panel trucks.
treated lumber, and a color guarantee. And you can rent seldom-used specialty
The moldings aisle [Photos Q, R, S] provides tools, such as a handheld planer, floor
plenty of opportunity to add eye-catching sander, or sprayer, rather than buy them.
woodmagazine.com 33
Hand-tool

Tote
A
B 5/16" round-over
on inside edges, stopped
3½" from bottom of arms
This customizable carryall organizes B
your most-used tools, keeping them

close at hand and ready for quick use. C
EXPLODED VIEW
35/8"
35/8" 5/16" hole 3½" deep,
35/8" dado centered
1/16" deep
H
1¼"
1¾"
E
15/16" dado
7/32" deep J
G ¾"
D
K D
E
I
F 5" H
15° bevels
4"
5"
J K
5/16" round-overs 6½"

16½" 37/8"
R=5/8"
O
rganizing your tools by task maxi- Approximate
17" W × 6½" D × 13¾" H
mizes efficiency. This tote keeps materials cost:

everything needed for laying out
dovetails gathered in one spot. Customize
the design to suit whatever tools are impor-
tant to the work you do. Start the build at the
$40
without tools
top and work your way out from the center,
custom-fitting everything as you go. Gather
up your favorite tools and get started!
∞
Options to
customize for
your tools
Note: See Sources on

page 39 to buy any of
the tools shown in the
tote.
woodmagazine.com 35
A
A B
Use a tenoning jig and a flat-grind rip blade to ensure square shoulders Cut the shoulders to match the tenon length to the width of the arms. Position the
on the tenon. stopblock above the tabletop to prevent trapping the offcut.
1 HANDLE ASSEMBLY Getting a grip
A
1 Cut the handle (A) and arms (B) to size
[Materials List]. Machine the tenons on the
handle and the open mortises on the arms
Make your own
tenoning jig.
3/16" dowel [Drawing 1, Photos A–C]. woodmagazine.com/
2
½" Glue the handle and arms together, keep- tenonjig
3/8" centered mortise
1¼" deep ing the arms parallel. After the glue
dries, pin each joint with a 3∕16" dowel, glued
3/16" hole in each hole and trimmed flush [Drawing 1].
B
3 Round over the inside edges of the handle
assembly, stopping 31∕2" from the bottom
end of each arm [Exploded View].
B
13"
4 Shape a smooth curve on the handle
assembly [Drawing 1a, Photo D].
C 1a HANDLE
7/16" 3/16" hole 7/8" rabbet 5/16" deep

11¼" 1¼" A 7/8"
7/16"
7/8"
13"
7/8"
C D
Set the rip fence to define the walls of the mortise, then readjust the Lay out the curve on the top of the handle assembly by flexing a steel rule in a one-hand
fence to remove the remaining waste. clamp. Then, bandsaw to shape and sand smooth.
Start the customizing
Note: Adapt the
Angled dadoes protect sharp chisels and
allow them to clear the tote’s handle as you 2 Use a dado blade at the tablesaw to cut
the dadoes [Photos E, F].
locations and sizes of
the slots in parts C, D,
F, G, and H to suit
insert or remove them.
1 Cut the chisel rack (C) to size and lay out

along the top edge the locations for the
3 Clean up the bottom of each slot with a
chisel [Photo G]. Glue the chisel rack
between the two arms (B), flush at the bot-
your tool collection. angled dadoes [Drawing 2]. tom [Drawing 1].
Top View
2 CHISEL RACK
13/16" 1"
Angled dadoes Front View

11¼"
31/16" C 3½"
End View 7/16" 11/16" ¾" 7/8" 1" 11/8" 1¼" 1"
9/16" 5/8" 13/16" 11/16" 9/16" 7/16" 5/16" 3/16"
C
15˚ bevel
C
13 ∕16"
13 ∕16"
E F
Bevel-rip a 13∕16"-thick
tall scrap at 15° and attach it to an extension on your tablesaw miter gauge. Set up a 1∕4" dado blade in your tablesaw and cut the slots in the
chisel rack (C). Switch to a regular rip blade if you need a 3∕16"-wide slot for a 1∕8" chisel.
G
Smooth out the bottom of each dado with the matching chisel for each slot.
woodmagazine.com 37
Dead-on dado jig
4 Cut the fillers (D, E) to size. Glue the
long fillers (D) to the chisel rack (C)
flush at the bottom and ends, then glue the
A simple dado jig guides a handheld router for cutting the openings
in the tool racks (F, G). Glue and #8×11∕4" flathead screws hold the
plywood fence to the legs.
short fillers (E) in place [Exploded View]. To establish a reference for using the jig, install a 1∕4" spiral
5 Size both tool racks (F, G) and lay out the

locations of the dadoes and pockets for
each tool in the front rack (F) [Drawing 3].
downcut bit in a trim router. Clamp a scrap in the jig and rout across
the legs with the router firmly against the fence. The resulting cut
makes it easy to align the jig on a workpiece.
Build a simple dado jig [Dead-on dado jig] to
customize the tool openings in the racks
[Photos H, I].
6 Rout a dado for the spine of the backsaw

in the handle assembly (A–E) [Exploded
View, Photo J].
Fence
1∕2×2×6"
7 Glue the front tool rack (F) to the handle

assembly (A–E).
8 Rout a pocket for the body of the protrac-

tor in the back tool rack (G) and drill a
hole for the marking gauge [Exploded View]. 3
Then glue it to the handle assembly.
Leg
1×11∕4×81∕2"
eference cut
3 FRONT TOOL RACK

Top View
3/32" 3/8" 1/16" 1/16" 1"
Front View ¼"
F 1¼"
2½"
3½"
F
23/8" 13/8" 21/16" 15/8" 1¾" 1¼"

H 13/16" 15/16" 15/16"
Use the reference cut on the legs to align the jig with the layout lines, clamp it 15"
in place, and rout the dadoes and pockets to the size and depth for your tools.
I J
Double-check the fit of each tool as you cut its dado. Make sure you can easily Dado the filler (D) in the front of the handle assembly for the spine of the
insert and remove each item. backsaw to match the dado for the spine in the front tool rack (F).
H K
H
K L
Attach an extension to your tablesaw miter gauge. Angle it to 40° and cut a Attach the foot to a scrap of plywood with double-faced tape. The plywood
dado for a marking knife. supports the guide bearing of the 5∕16" round-over bit while routing the edges.
Wrap it up
1 Machine a 3∕4×4×12" blank for the ends
(H). Lay out and cut the angled dado in
one end (H) [Drawing 4, Photo K]. Crosscut the
handle. Apply several coats of your favorite
wipe-on finish. After it dries you’ll be ready
to tote your tools in style.
ends to length [Drawing 4].
2 Cut the bottom (I) to size and glue the

bottom and ends (H) to the handle
assembly (A–G).
Materials List
Part T
FINISHED SIZE
W L Matl. Qty.
3 Machine the front and back (J) to final

size and glue them to the assembly. After
the glue dries, round over the ends of the
A
B
handle
arms
1" 11∕4"
1" 7∕ 8"
13"
13"
W
A
1
2
C chisel rack 1" 31∕2" 111∕4" A 1
front and back.
4
D long fillers 1" 31∕2" 13" A 2
Size the feet (K) and radius the outside
E short fillers 1" 31∕2" 3" A 2
corners [Exploded View]. Round over the
three outside edges [Photo L]. F front tool rack 1" 31∕2" 15" A 1
5 Bevel-cut the inside edge of each foot (K) G back tool rack 1" 31∕2" 15" A 1
and then glue the feet to the assembly H* ends 3∕4" 4" 5" W 2
[Exploded View]. I bottom 1∕ 2" 5" 15" W 1
6 Finish-sand the tote with 220-grit sand-

paper, easing any sharp edges on the
J
K feet
front/back 1∕ 2" 4"
1∕4" 37∕ 8"
161∕2"
61∕2" W
W
2
2
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

Materials key: W–walnut, A–alder.
4 END Supplies: 3∕16×12" walnut dowel, #8×11∕4" flathead screws.
Blade and bits: Dado set; rip blade; 5∕16" round-over bit; 1∕4" spiral
Cut 11/16" dado downcut bit.
5/32" deep 3/8" Sources: WoodRiver socket chisel set (1∕4", 1∕2", 3∕4", 1") no. 161640,
in one H only. $180; WoodRiver socket chisels, 1∕8" no. 161641, $40; 3∕8" no. 161643,
$40; 5∕8" no. 161645, $45; Ohkubo blue steel 5∕8" marking knife no.
156722, $30; General Tools square head 6" protractor no. 85O45, $24,
Woodcraft, 800-225-1153, woodcraft.com. Tite-Mark marking gauge no.
H 2-GD-TM, $109, Lie-Nielsen, 800-327-2520, lie-nielsen.com. 4" double
4" square no. 24N0801, $47; Veritas saddle square regular no. 05N5601,
50° $17; Veritas dovetail saw standard (14 tpi) no. 05T0501, $79, Lee Valley,
800-871-8158, leevalley.com. Dovetail marker standard, $27, Richard
Kell, 011-44-01670-815922, richardkell.co.uk.
5"
This project requires 4 board feet of 5/4 walnut

Cutting Diagram and 3 board feet of 5/4 alder.
*H *H *I *J *K
A
1 x 5½ x 72" Walnut *Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List. Produced by Bryan Nelson with
John Olson
B C D D E E F G Project design: John Olson
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine,
1 x 3½ x 96" Alder Lorna Johnson
woodmagazine.com 39
A Buyer’s Guide to
Benchtop
CNC Machines
For most hobbyist and small-shop woodworkers, a benchtop By George Vondriska
unit likely provides all the function you’ll ever need. But the
more you spend, the more features and capacity you get.
A
s CNC machines have grown in capability and popularity,
they’re finding their way into more and more home shops.
With small footprints and relatively low price tags, bench-
top CNCs—essentially robotic routers—provide a good way to dip
your toe into the “tech” side of woodworking. If you're intrigued by
the idea, but don’t know a gantry from a spindle, we’ll help you
understand the important things to look for in a CNC.

First, determine your budget
Benchtop CNC units sell from about $1,500
to $6,000, with many variables that affect
pricing. As with many tool purchases, first
decide not only how much can you spend,
but also how much should you spend? In
other words, what will it take to get a machine
that will do what you need it to do? Remember
this adage: “Buy the best and you’ll only cry
once.” Precision, tight tolerances, and
durability typically add cost. A low-cost
machine may not give you the performance
you need, adding frustration and buyer’s
regret. And as technology changes—both
with the CNC software and the computers
required to operate them—your setup might
become less nimble or effective over time.
Pick the appropriate envelope

Like any machine, a CNC unit has a given
workpiece capacity, called its “envelope,”
expressed as the maximum travel in the X, Y,
and Z axes [Photos A and C]. So your next buy-
ing-decision line in the sand is, what do you
want to make? Will you be carving small signs
or cutting out cabinet parts? Understanding
how you plan to use your CNC determines
what capacities the machine needs.
The bed on the machine in Photo A pro-
vides a 24×24" envelope in the X and Y axes.
However, that doesn’t limit workpieces to the
size of the bed. Although the gantry supports
limit size in the X direction, the Y capacity is
effectively limitless, thanks to tiling.
xis
Xa
Ya
xis
Gantry support
A
Look for X and Y travel in the machine’s specifications to determine the size of
pieces the machine can handle.
woodmagazine.com 41
Spoilboard
First tile Second tile
Registration dowels
B
CNC software allows you to divide large jobs into sections (tiles), providing virtually infinite capacity in one
dimension.
CNC tiling allows you to machine a por- in mind that the router bit or cutter and the
tion of the workpiece—a “tile”—then slide the space needed for it to travel over the work-
workpiece, machine another tile, move the piece reduce the Z-axis capacity [Photo C]. So
workpiece, and so on [Photo B]. You’re limited cutting completely through 11∕2"-thick
only by the length of the workpiece you can material requires Z-axis travel of 31∕4" or
support as it extends beyond the CNC. Dow- more. And if a machine doesn’t come with a
els bored into the spoilboard and workpiece spoilboard, remember that adding one
(the sacrificial MDF on the machine bed used reduces the stated Z-axis travel by that
to avoid cutting into the metal bed) register board’s thickness.
the location of the workpiece to align the tiles.
Although tiling your work does extend your Plot your work plans
workspace, I wouldn’t want to do it all the Carving ordinary wood plaques and signs
time. First, creating the tiling toolpath with large letters and numbers demands
requires more work than creating a standard less precision than creating a detailed image
toolpath, and then registering the workpiece [Photo D] or cutting out project parts that
on the CNC can get fussy. If you plan to rou- need a precise fit. Give yourself permission
tinely cut long parts, get an envelope large to buy a machine that offers less precision
enough to minimize tiling. if the work you’ll be doing doesn’t demand
The Z axis defines the vertical travel of a tight tolerances.
cutter. As you look at this specification, keep
Z axis
D
C Highly detailed work, such as this engraving on granite, requires a CNC that
The Z-axis (vertical) travel limits the thickness of material you can cut on the CNC. provides absolute precision and tight tolerances.
Allow for future growth
This might be the hardest part: anticipating
how you’ll use your CNC in the future.
Today’s simple work may grow into projects
that require tighter tolerances. Will you
develop the need to cut larger pieces? The
X-Y travel on benchtop machines varies
widely. Large signs, door panels, and cabinet
Watch George’s video parts require a larger-format CNC.
“CNC routers can Some benchtop machines can do work in
do all that?” a fourth axis: rotation [Photo E]. This allows
woodmagazine.com/ you to create almost any round, cylindrical,
cnccuts or spiral piece, such as table legs or chess
pieces, that you’d make on a lathe. If you
might want this in the future, buy a machine E
A fourth-axis-compatible machine allows you to add a rotary device, similar to a
now with the capability to add this acces- lathe, to your CNC.
sory later.
Obviously, down the road you can just buy sure you have a power supply that meets or
a larger machine, and that might not be a bad exceeds the needs of the machine.
thing as technology improves and prices ■ A stand or bench: Some manufacturers
decrease. You may pay the same amount in 5 offer stands for their machines, but not all do.
years for a larger, more capable machine as You can also custom-build a stand. A bench
what you pay for a lesser-equipped model or stand on casters allows you to roll the
today. (As with all technology, or having chil- machine out of the way when not in use.
dren, you just have to jump in at some ■ Dust collection: I would not run a CNC
point—there might never be an ideal time.) without some type of dust collection. A large
shop vacuum suffices for most benchtop
How a CNC fits in the shop units, but the dust can quickly clog the vac’s
As you consider adding a CNC to your shop, filter, reducing its effectiveness. A dust collec-
consider how well your shop will accommo- tor, with higher airflow (CFM), usually works
date this new tool [Photo F]. better. You might get a dust shroud [Photo G]
■ Power requirements: Benchtop CNCs with the machine; if not, they typically sell as
come prewired for either 110 or 220 volts, accessories. Like other tools in your shop, the
with varying amperage requirements. Make shrouds typically accept 21∕2" or 4" hose.
Dust-collection
hose
Dust-collection shroud
F G
Pay attention to the logistics of adding a CNC router to your shop, such as total Routing on a CNC creates so much fine dust that you definitely need a dust
footprint, power requirements, portability, and dust collection. shroud around the bit, allowing you to connect to a vacuum or collector.
Sample the software before buying Check your comfort level with using CNC-related software before
Most CNC companies recommend VCarve Pro ($699) or VCarve Desktop investing in a machine. Test drive the VCarve software by downloading a
($349) for designing projects and creating CNC toolpaths. The software free trial from vectric.com. When you design projects, nearly any clip art
sometimes comes with the machine, but not always. Some companies can be turned into a file you can cut with a CNC. You also can purchase
have their own machine-specific design and toolpath software. Check a huge variety of 3-D files at Design & Make (designandmake.com).
before buying your machine so you know if software adds expense.
Most software requires a Windows operating system, but some will run Watch a tutorial on getting started on a CNC. woodmagazine.com/cncsoftware
on a Macintosh system using Parallels software.
43
Features to consider Designed to run
for long periods,
As you evaluate benchtop CNC units, you’ll a dedicated
find a variety of “function” choices in spindle will
motors, drive types, computer hardware, outlast a router
and more. Let’s sort these out. over the life
of your CNC
machine.
Router or spindle?
A CNC machine uses one of two methods to
spin the bits: a dedicated spindle [Photo H] or H
a router [Photo I]. Let’s look at the differences
between the two.
Spindle
■ Quieter than a router
■ Torque remains consistent throughout its
speed range.
■ Spindles usually produce less runout than
a router, allowing for greater accuracy.
■ Typically, a spindle has an infinitely
adjustable speed range of 0–24,000 rpm.
The ability to drop below 12,000 rpm—the
bottom end for most routers—proves better
for cutting nonferrous metals. I
■ Spindles typically come with ER-style Routers cost less than spindles and can be easily replaced if breakdown occurs.
collets (see Spindle collets make accuracy more achiev-
able); available size depends on the spindle. include auto on/off, while others offer an
Spindles can be water-cooled or air- optional control box to do this.
cooled. On some water-cooled systems, the Turning a router on and off manually
water pump automatically turns on and off each time you start and stop a toolpath isn’t
with the spindle. On others, you must man- a deal-breaker, but you must remember to
ually turn the pump on; forgetting to do this turn it on before beginning the toolpath or
can damage the spindle. Any water-cooled you’ll likely break the router bit and damage
system is self-contained, so there’s no risk of your workpiece. I much prefer doing what-
the coolant getting on your work. I prefer an ever it takes to have auto on and off.
air-cooled spindle or a completely automatic
water-cooled spindle.
Spindle collets make accuracy
Router more achievable
■ Costs less than a spindle
Routers in CNC machines use the same collets that you find on any
■ Torque can vary through the speed range,
router. However, most CNC spindles use ER collets. What’s an ER
which might not be a problem (until it is).
collet? The E is a holdover from naming items with a letter series,
Compensate by making shallower cuts.
while the R is for Rego-Fix, the company that made the collet
■ Some CNC machines use a trim or com-
self-releasing. ER collets get machined to tighter tolerances than
pact router (11⁄4 hp or less) rather than a
standard router collets. This might prove a huge factor when you’re
more robust midsize router. Unlike trim
trying to do precision work. When evaluating spindles, opt for ER
routers, midsize routers include electronic
collets when available.
feedback to maintain spindle speed, and
collets that accept 1⁄4"- and 1⁄2"-shank bits;
1⁄2"-shank bits are less prone to breakage.
A router-powered CNC machine works

fine, but given the option and budget, go with
a spindle for higher accuracy and longer life.
Get turned on (and off) ER collet

Standard
If you get a machine with a spindle, it almost router collet
certainly turns on automatically when you
start a toolpath and turns off when that tool- Spindles typically come equipped with ER collets. Routers use larger nuts
to house their collets.
path ends. Some router-based machines
Cogged pulley
Lead screw
K
Belt Lead screws create more friction and operate less efficiently than ball screws.
Ball screw
J
On belt-driven machines, motion in the X and Y directions comes via a flat ribbed
belt traveling over cogged pulleys.
Drivers, move your bits

When it comes to moving the spindle or
router in the X, Y, and Z axes on a benchtop
machine, you have three choices: belt drive, L
lead screw, or ball screw. Ball screws can carry heavier loads than their lead screw counterparts.
■ Belt drive: Cogs on the pulleys prevent
belt slippage, but as you use the machine, All of these systems work, but given the
dust in the cogs might interfere with the belt choice, opt for a ball screw system.
engaging. Wide belts, such as the 15mm one
shown in Photo J, work more effectively than Motor choice drives cost
narrow belts. A belt won’t develop surface CNC motors come in two types: stepper and
rust like lead or ball screws can. Belt systems servo. A stepper motor [Photo M] operates on
typically move the bit position faster than what’s called an open-loop system. This
screw systems, but don’t handle heavy loads means the software sends a signal to the
as well. As long as you use the system within motor to move, and it assumes the motor
its capabilities, you’ll be fine. did what it should. A servo motor operates
Belts can stretch, potentially affecting on a closed loop. In this case, the system
accuracy, but if one does stretch or break, it’s sends the signal to the motor to move, and
easy to replace. Realistically, a belt can last a then double-checks to make sure the correct
very long time and be tightened if it does move happened. Servos provide a better
stretch a little. approach, and you’ll see them on large-for-
■ Screw drives: With both types of screw mat CNCs, but rarely on benchtops. So if
drives, the screw transfers the rotary motion you want this option, be prepared to pay at
of a motor to the linear motion required to least $10,000 for a larger machine.
move in the X, Y, and Z axes. A screw system
works similarly to a threaded rod and nut:
Imagine the nut captured in a housing on
the CNC. As the screw turns, the captured
nut moves the spindle or gantry (the bridge
to which the spindle mounts). Stepper motor
The threads on a lead screw [Photo K] fea-
ture slightly rounded edges, quite different
from a threaded rod, and purpose-designed
for the loads caused by movement. The
threads engage with a self-lubricating nut
with wear compensation built in.
A ball screw nut [Photo L] contains ball
bearings that roll in the concave recesses of
the screw. Ball screws enjoy an edge in accu-
Backlash: a brief lack racy over lead screws, thanks to less backlash.
of movement when Most ball screws require manual lubrication,
reversing direction. though they create little friction and work
very efficiently. This translates to long life M
and good transfer of power from the motor to Benchtop CNCs typically use stepper motors to drive motion in the X, Y,
the screw to the router bit. and Z axes.
woodmagazine.com 45
Fob
N O
Some CNCs require an external computer plugged in to operate the toolpath, Fobs are purpose-built to live and work in a dusty environment without the
which means having it in the shop alongside your machine. computer plugged in.
The brains of the operation first. Evaluate your CNC goals and use those
Once you create your project design and tool- to narrow your search, keeping future
path, that information gets transmitted to the growth in mind. Look for and attend a CNC
CNC via a fob (also called a pendant). Or, you user group in your area or online so you can
may have to plug a computer directly into the talk to people about their machine choices
machine. and experiences and get real-world practical
The CNC typically connects to your information. Look for CNC classes in your
computer via a USB port. Many users build area and tire-kick machines before you buy.
a cabinet for the computer to protect it from If possible, attend a trade show where you
the dusty environment. On the Shapeoko can visit with multiple manufacturers and
CNC [Photo N], you can do other tasks on the see firsthand several machines.
computer while it’s running the toolpath,
which I prefer. With some CNCs, the com-
puter “locks up,” meaning for the duration
of the cut you can’t use the computer for
anything else. It doesn’t take much of a com-
puter to run the CNC, so if you go this route,
shop for an inexpensive new or used com-
puter and dedicate it to the task.
If the CNC has a fob, you’ll do your design Touch plate
and toolpath work on a computer, save the
toolpath to a flash drive, and plug that flash
drive into the fob [Photo O]. Regardless of
whether you use the computer directly or a
fob, functionality is very similar. You use the
device to zero your axes, control the speed of P
travel, and set up the machine. Lower the bit until it contacts the touch plate. Then reset the Z axis “zero”
point on the fob.
Get in touch with the bit
Every time you put a new bit in the collet or
use a different thickness of workpiece, you
need to teach the bit the height of the wood George Vondriska runs his own
surface, a process called zeroing the Z axis woodworking school in Hammond, Wis.,
[Photo P]. The touch plate may come with the and frequently teaches at other locations
machine or be an accessory. It’s definitely throughout the country. He is also the
worth having. Managing Editor of the Woodworkers
Guild of America. Learn more by visiting
Do lots of research in advance vondriskawoodworks.com.
Honestly, it’s always difficult to give tool-
buying advice, and even more so with CNCs.
The ideal bottom line: Buy your last tool
About the CNCs featured in this article
Axiom Iconic-4, $5,000 Next Wave Shark HD500, $3,000
Designed and built with big-time features and performance, but at a All Next Wave machines (except the SD100) come with their Virtual Zero
smaller scale. Axiom also sells machines in other sizes. The Iconic CNC Unlimited software. This cool technology allows you to map 3-D surfaces
machines do not accept a fourth axis, but their Pro series machines do. so you can then machine over that surface, such as adding lettering to
Features a rounded surface. Virtual Zero lets you do that without creating a 3-D
● X-axis travel 23.8"; Y-axis travel 24.1"; Z-axis travel 3.9" model.
● 1-hp air-cooled spindle Features
● 1∕4" and 1∕8" ER collets ● X-axis travel 13"; Y-axis travel 25"; Z-axis travel 7"
● Auto on/off spindle ● Router not included; accepts 31∕2"-diameter router motors, such as the
● Ball screws throughout Bosch 1617, DeWalt DW618, or Porter-Cable 890 series (optional 2-hp
● Fob included water-cooled spindle, $1,000)
● Z-axis touch plate ● Auto on/off for router
included ● Lead screws throughout
● Optional dust shroud ● Fob included
($179) ● VCarve Desktop included
● No CAD/CAM software ● Must provide your own
included spoilboard
844-642-4902 ● Accepts a fourth axis
axiomprecision.com ● Optional Z touch plate
($100)
● Optional dust shroud
($100)
419-318-4822
nextwavecnc.com
Shapeoko Pro, $2,800
This is a very capable machine with a large work envelope, and includes
Shapeoko’s Bitsetter touch plate. Unlike other Z touch plates, Bitsetter
also locates the corners of your workpiece for the X-Y origin.
Features
● X-axis travel 33"; Y-axis travel 33"; Z-axis travel 4" Portable CNC: The Next Gen
● Router not included; accepts any trim router with a 65mm-diameter Shaper Origin ($2,600, shapertools.com) is a handheld CNC worth
motor, or purchase Shapeoko’s optional 1-hp Carbide ER-11 compact considering. This portable CNC—about the size of a 3-hp plunge
router ($150), which includes 1∕4" and 1∕8" ER collets. router—allows you to take the tool to the work instead of the work
● Requires purchase of Bitrunner accessory for auto on/off ($80) to the tool, fits in a toolbox, and can store under a workbench when
● Belt drive on X and Y axes. Lead screw on Z axis not in use. Origin orients itself to coded “domino” tape applied to
● Requires a computer with OS/X 10.14 or higher operating system or your workpiece (below), so you have virtually no X-Y limitations. This
Windows 8, 10, or 11 (Intel or AMD processor). means you can easily CNC-carve in the middle of a large
● Optional Z touch plate ($120) workpiece—something next to impossible on a benchtop CNC. You
● Dust shroud included run it hands-on, tracking the bit location on the toolpath using the
● Carbide Motion software included; this software runs the CNC and built-in screen. Origin makes minor corrections to the bit location to
must be installed on the computer used with the tool. stay on the toolpath. Because it looks and operates like a handheld
● Carbide Create 2-D CAD/CAM software included for designing and router, it feels more like “real” woodworking. With a conventional
creating toolpaths CNC, you push a button and do other work while it cuts.
● Cannot accept a fourth axis
310-504-3637, carbide3d.com
Domino tape
Grommet
Screen shows
the toolpath.
Shaper Origin routs the preset toolpath—in this case an oblong opening
for a grommet—in all three axes as you move it around the workpiece.
woodmagazine.com 47
Stackable
48" W × 12" or 24" D × 18" H
Plant Shelves
Grow your green space vertically,
indoors or out.
Approximate
materials cost:
$125
Cut
51half-lap
joints in
one-third
the time

1½" dado 3/8" deep, centered ¼" ¼"
EXPLODED VIEW 48"

23¼" 13/8"
I I
J K J
K ¼ x 13/8" 4½"
mortises
E ¾" deep A
I
E #20
C biscuit
slots
C E
Corner brackets G
provide strength 3/8" 3/8"
and visual appeal. A
B
B F 1 LEG DETAILS
Grid makes a A
lightweight but 1½" ¼" slot ¼"
strong platform. 11/8" 1¼" deep
1½" dado 3/8" deep,
1½" rabbets centered
3/8" deep ¼ x 13/8"
mortise
H ¾" deep
J 5/8"
H
B
K 4½" 17¼"
K ¾"
H
D
1½" rabbets #20
3/8" deep biscuit
D J C slot
3/8"
Half-lap joints lock 1½" 1½"
together squarely. F
A C
D
B
F 1/8" round-overs
F
¼"
A
R
#20 biscuit C ¾"
aise your potted plants to let them 1½" D
bask in the sunshine, and to make E
them easier to water and tend. A wide 1a RAIL TENON
and shallow shelf let you pick the size that ¼"
best fits your space, and even stack them,
providing more space for plants. Slats keep
things lightweight and let light filter
through. The Materials List on page 51 shows
A B A
parts quantities for one shelf of each size;
adjust those numbers for as many shelves as A B A
you want.
Start with a dozen legs

1 Cut the legs (A, B) to size [Materials List].
Lay out the mortise and slot locations on
the top end [Drawing 1, Photo A].
A
2 Mount a 1∕4" spiral bit in your table- 11∕8"

mounted router, set the height to 1∕4", and A B
secure the fence 1∕4" from the bit. Rout the To help keep the legs properly oriented, tape Painter’s tape 11∕8" from the bit marks the stopping
top mortise on one face of each corner leg together a set of six legs. Then lay out the slot point for the workpiece when routing the slots in the
(A) in progressively deeper passes [Photo B, locations on the top end. tops of the corner legs (A).
woodmagazine.com 49
B Backer board
C
Stand each center leg (B) on end and clamp a backer D
board to it for stability. Rout the slots in 1∕4" increments. Nest four small brackets (F) along each blank, allowing at least a saw kerf between each bracket.
Drawing 1]. Then rout the slots on the end of out the rabbets and dadoes on each blank,
each center leg (B) in the same way [Photo C]. paying attention to the spacing [Drawing 4].
3 Lower the bit and move the fence 1" from

the bit to rout the mortises on the adja- 2 Make a jig to rout the dadoes and rabbets
[Skill Builder], then rout the blanks [Photo G].
cent faces of the corner legs (A) [Drawing 1].
Reset the fence again to rout the remaining
mortises on the center legs (B). Round over
3 Rip three cross slats (H, I) from each
blank [Exploded View], marking them to
maintain the same orientation as you rip
the bottom ends of the legs. them free.
Choose your method 4 Cut the rails (C–E) to size and form the
tenons on the ends [Drawing 1a]. 4 For the slats (J, K), prepare five 3∕4×5×48"
blanks. Lay out the center dado and the
for making tenons.
woodmagazine.com/
mt4ways
5 For the small brackets (F), make a hard-
board or plywood template [Drawing 2].
Cut six 3∕4×3×24" blanks and lay out the
rabbets [Exploded View]. Reconfigure the dado
jig by removing the second guide and then
reattaching it with a 7∕8" spacer between it and
brackets on each one [Photo D]. At your miter- the router base. Widen the dadoes in the jig,
saw, cut the brackets from the blanks, then then rout the dado and rabbets on each blank.
bandsaw the curve on each one and sand the
brackets smooth.
6 Cut to size blanks for the large brackets 10"

Make identical (G) [Drawing 2], matching their length to E
brackets with template the shoulder-to-shoulder dimension of the
routing. upper end rails (E). Cut one bracket to shape, G
woodmagazine.com/ then use it as a pattern to lay out and shape
templaterout the other two. Finish-sand the brackets.
7 Dry-fit each base, position the brackets, 17¼"

#20 biscuit
and lay out the biscuit slots [Drawings 2, 3]. A
Cut the slots.
Tip! Use a Type II or III
glue for this project to
resist water spills.
8 Glue up the legs (A, B), end rails (D, E),
and brackets (F, G) to make six leg
assemblies [Drawing 3]. After the glue dries,
A
UPPER END ASSEMBLY
(Left assembly shown)
3 END ASSEMBLIES
tie them together with the front/back rails
(C) and remaining brackets (F).
22"
All hands on deck
1 To make the cross slats (H, I), prepare a
3∕4×5×24" blank and a 3∕4×5×12" blank. Lay
3"
D
#20 biscuit
F
2 BRACKETS
5"
¼" 8½" F A
1" 2" 1" 1"
1" 1"
F
1" G LOWER END ASSEMBLY
2" 2" (Left assembly shown)
4" R=3" 49/32" 5" A
R=2¾"
5"
11/8"
4" 4¼"
¼" 13/8"
SMALL BRACKET LARGE BRACKET
SKILL BUILDER between the two longer pieces and screw one of the shorter pieces to the
Simple dado jig makes lots of slots two long ones [Photo E]. Position your router against this piece, insert a
WIth a 5∕8" dado clean-out bit in your plunge router, this jig helps you cut 1∕2"-thick spacer, and secure the remaining plywood strip [Photo F].
accurate 11∕8"-wide dadoes in two passes. To make it, rip three 2×18" With scrap material in the jig, rout across the two long arms to show where
plywood strips. Crosscut one into two 9" lengths. Sandwich a slat blank the bit cuts. Use these dadoes to align the jig on the cross-slat blanks.
Blank for lower

cross slats H
1∕2" spacer
Plywood
E F
Square the plywood strip to the edges of the blank. Secure it with two screws With a 1∕2" spacer between the router base and second strip, square up the
through each end. strip, then screw it in place (no glue).
Lower cross-slat H 1½" rabbet

11/8" dadoes 3/8" deep
blank 3/8" deep
1½" rabbet
1½" 3/8" deep
12" I
9/16"
11/8"
11/8" 1½"
Align dadoes in jig with 11/8" 15/16"
1½" 1½" 11/8"
G layouts lines on blank. 9/16"
24" H
Make two passes to cut the dadoes and the rabbets on the cross-slat (H, I) blanks. 1½" rabbet
3/8" deep
5 Rip the slats to fit the dadoes in the cross

slats (H, I) [Materials List], and sand the
edges smooth. Glue outside slats (J) to each 11/8"
11/8" dadoes
3/8" deep
11/8"
set of three cross slats to make a frame, 11/8"
1½" 1½" 4 CROSS SLATS
checking for square. Then glue the inside 15/16"
slats (K) in place. 1½" rabbet 3/8" deep
6 Sand the grids smooth, then glue them to

their respective bases, centered. Cutting Diagram
7 Apply a penetrating oil finish and allow it
to dry thoroughly. Then plant your new
shelves where your flora will flourish.
A A
1½ x 1½ x 72" Cypress (2 needed)
A A
B B B B
1½ x 1½ x 72" Cypress
Materials List FINISHED SIZE D
C
D
C
D
C
Part T W L Matl. Qty. ¾ x 3½ x 72" Cypress
A corner legs 11∕2" 11∕2" 171∕4" C 8 F F C
B center legs 11∕2" 11∕2" 171∕4" C 4 ¾ x 3½ x 72" Cypress
C front/back rails 3∕4" 11∕2" 23" C 8 F F F F
3∕4" 11∕2"
D lower end rails 22" C 3 ¾ x 3½ x 96" Cypress
E upper end rails 3∕4" 11∕2" 10" C 3
3∕4" G G G H I C E
F* small brackets 5" 5" C 22
G large brackets 3∕4" 5" 81∕2" C 3 ¾ x 5½ x 96" Cypress
J
H* lower cross slats 3∕4" 11∕2" 24" C 3
I* upper cross slats 3∕4" 11∕2" 12" C 3 K This project requires 41∕2 board feet of 8/4
¾ x 5½ x 48" Cypress (2 needed) cypress and 21 board feet of 4/4 cypress.
J* outside slats 3∕4" 11∕2" 48" C 4
K* inside slats 3∕4" 1 1∕ 8" 48" C 13 K
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions. ¾ x 5½ x 48" Cypress (2 needed)
Materials key: C—cypress . Produced by Craig Ruegsegger with Kevin Boyle
Supplies: #20 biscuits. K Project design: Kevin Boyle
Bits: 1∕4" spiral upcut straight bit, 5∕8" dado clean-out bit. Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine, Lorna Johnson
¾ x 5½ x 48" Cypress
woodmagazine.com 51
Sharpening cone
Meet The Joinery

Dream Team Create just about any joint imaginable with these tools.
In 1992, the U.S. Olympic men’s basketball

“dream team,” led by Michael Jordan, Larry Bird,
and Magic Johnson, obliterated the competition
to easily win the gold medal. Like that team’s
coaching staff, we’ve assembled a dream team of
the joinery tools we use most. Some high-dollar
superstars require a sizable investment, but they
do their jobs like no other tool. Others fill the
role of utility players that do lots of things well or
specialists that do one thing superbly. So as you
fill out the joinery roster for your shop, match your
needs (or dreams) to these tools, and you’ll be
winning in your woodworking in no time.
—Bob Hunter, Tools Editor
Powermatic benchtop mortiser

no. PM701, $1,290 (including optional
set of 4 chisels)
Best role: Boring square and rectangular
mortises
A mortise-and-tenon joint ranks as one of the
strongest woodworking joints, and with this
machine you’ll easily create precise mortises
every time. From its rack-and-pinion fence
that makes adjustments a breeze, to its no-slip
depth stop, to its workpiece hold-down, to its
reversible handle, the PM701 makes
mortising fun. And although you have to
buy the hollow chisels and bits separately (in
1∕4", 5∕16", 3∕8", and 1∕2" widths), you can easily
sharpen the chisels thanks to a sharpening

cone on the machine.
—Craig Ruegsegger, Deputy Editor
Powermatic
800-274-6848, powermatic.com

Delta tenoning jig
no. 34-184, $150
Best role: Cutting tenons, bridle
joints, and integrated-front lock
rabbets
I prefer to cut tenons vertically
with this jig (rather than horizon-
tally with a dado set) because the
smoother cheeks yield a better
glue surface. The mass of my
trusty cast-iron Delta jig helps it
glide through cuts easily while
holding the workpiece securely.
Its microadjuster gives me the
ability to fine-tune tenons to a
perfect fit. And once it’s dialed in,
I can repeat matching tenons on
other workpieces in no time.
—Vince Ancona, Contributing Writer
Delta Machinery
800-223-7278, deltamachinery.com
Nicker
Lie-Nielsen 601⁄2 rabbeting block plane

no. 1-60-1-2-R, $185
Learn tips for better biscuit joinery. Best role: Trimming rabbets or wide dadoes
woodmagazine.com/biscuittips or grooves
Because the blade spans the plane body’s full
13⁄4" width, it cuts right up to a shoulder like
Lamello biscuit joiner Classic X tooth blade, easy-to-use fence, and spot-on a shoulder plane, but with the low cutting
no. 101600, $700 depth-of-cut dial. In addition to settings for angle of a block plane. That helps prevent
the three most common biscuit sizes (0, 10, tear-out while providing a wide cut. The
Best role: Aligning edge-glued panels, cabinet and 20), the Classic X cuts slots for narrow
face frames, aligning and reinforcing miter joints
nicker scores the wood ahead of the blade
face frames and Lamello’s proprietary metal for a clean shoulder. I use this plane nearly
It’s a pleasure to use a tool that doesn’t sound fasteners used for knockdown joints. every day.
like an angry badger trying to fight its way —John Olson, Design Editor —Kevin Boyle, Senior Design Editor
out of a steel cage. Lamello’s Classic X cuts Colonial Saw Co. Lie-Nielsen
clean, precise biscuit slots, thanks to its six- 781-585-4364, csaw.com 800-327-2520, lie-nielsen.com
woodmagazine.com 53
Forrest box-joint blade set
no. FJ08242, $179
Freud set, no. SBOX8, $95
Best role: Box joints
I use box joints in a lot of projects because
they’re strong and attractive, especially
when made with contrasting wood species. I
like to cut box joints on the tablesaw using a
shop-made jig screwed to my miter gauge.
The flat-ground teeth on these blade sets
create square-bottom slots in 1⁄4" or 3⁄8"
widths with no gaps or tear-out. And I never
have to guess at the blade setup when
returning to it later.
Forrest
800-733-7111, forrestblades.com
Freud
800-334-4107, freudtools.com
Watch a video on
making box joints
at the tablesaw.
woodmagazine.com/
boxjointvid
Leigh 24" dovetail jig

no. D4R Pro, $699
Best role: Half-blind and through-
dovetails, box joints
Although selling for a premium
price, the Leigh D4R Pro creates
three different kinds of joints, pro-
viding a more reasonable cost per
joint. It might look intimidating,
but the detailed owner’s manual
walks you through each step with
great clarity. Even when I don’t use
it for months, I can come back to it
and make perfect-fitting dovetail
joints in minutes. And my favorite
feature—the movable fingers that
allow for variable spacing—makes
it easy to customize the joint to the
project, rather than having to
design project parts to match the
fixed spacing on most dovetail jigs.
Leigh Industries
800-663-8932, leightools.com

Domino loose tenon
Festool Domino Joiner See the Domino in action.

woodmagazine.com/dominovid
no. DF 500 Q-Set, $1,099
Best role: Any loose-tenon joint
The Domino works like a hybrid of a biscuit joiner and plunge 5mm-diameter bit, which suffices for small projects and thin stock;
router: Its spinning spiral bit moves side-to-side as you plunge it into I recommend buying the accessory 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm bits as
the workpiece, resulting in a smooth-walled mortise. With it, I well if you make furniture. The included fences and guides prove
create matching mortises in both workpieces, then glue in a domino- helpful when lining up cuts. (Domino tenons sell separately. You can
shaped loose tenon to get a joint with nearly the strength of a also make your own.)
mortise-and-tenon joint, but made with the ease of a biscuit joint. —Kevin Boyle, Senior Design Editor
It’s my go-to tool when I want the strength of a true mortise-and- Festool
tenon joint but want to do it quickly. The tool comes with a 888-337-8600, festoolusa.com
Freud 8" Super Dado

no. SD508, $200
Best role: Cutting dadoes, grooves, and
rabbets as well as tenons
We use stacked-dado sets often in the
WOOD® magazine shop, with the Super
Dado our model of choice. The 24-tooth
outer blades cut clean, flat-bottom channels
with no tear-out, even when cutting across
grain, and the six chippers and 12 shims
make it easy to set up a precise width. That it
comes in a handy protective plastic case
lined with foam, well, that’s just gravy.
—John Olson, Design Editor
Freud
800-334-4107, freudtools.com
woodmagazine.com 55
Veritas medium shoulder plane
no. 05P4171, $229
Best role: Trimming tenons and rabbets to fit
This tool changed my woodworking forever
and upped the quality of my joinery as I strove
to do more work with hand tools. I cut my
tenons slightly oversize and then trim them to
fit. This plane does that perfectly. I’ve used
other shoulder planes, but this one has the
best grip and easiest blade adjustment. I later
bought the Veritas small and large shoulder
planes as well, but if you’re looking for your
first, start with this one.
—Randy Maxey, Contributing Writer
Lee Valley
800-871-8158, leevalley.com
Cope bit
Stick bit
Infinity Tools rail-and-stile router bit set and coping sled Learn how to make cope-and-stick joints.
woodmagazine.com/copeandstickdoors
Bits no. 91-502, $130; sled no. COP-200, $220
Best role: Frame-and-panel doors for cabinets and furniture
Cabinet doors made with routed cope-and-stick joinery (often Its toggle clamps hold the workpiece and backer board securely, the
referred to as rail-and-stile) look great because cope-and-stick bit clear acrylic “visor” rides against the fence and prevents chips from
sets make perfect-fitting joints with attractive profiles. This pair flying upward, and the mass of its aluminum base and handles helps
from Infinity cuts cleanly and stays sharp—I’ve never had to me ease it through the cut.
resharpen them. (Choose from five other profiles if you prefer a —Jan Svec, Contributing Writer
different look.) Cope-cutting the end grain on the rails proves much Infinity Cutting Tools
easier—and safer—when holding the rails with Infinity’s coping sled. 877-872-2487, infinitytools.com
BUILDING.
CHEMISTRY.
TOGETHER.
systemthree.com MADE IN LACEY,

WA WASHINGTON 98516
Crokinole
Family fun that’s finger-flickin’ good!
Approximate
301∕2" W × 301∕2" D × 13∕4" H
materials cost:
Learn to play by
watching a fast-paced
championship match.
$175
Lumber,
woodmagazine.com/ epoxy, and
crokinolegoals hardware
2 4 or
player
gameplay

EXPLODED VIEW
#8 x ¾" R.H. screw
Rubber tubing
26" dia.
B
Dyed epoxy fill
½" rabbet
¼" deep
D
22½º miters
#8 x ¾"
F.H. screw
Rubber feet
C
roak-uh-what? Ask a Canadian, from your plunge router, use it to lay out the
where this popular game originated mounting holes on the trammel, then drill
more than 150 years ago. In it, players and counterbore the mounting holes and a
take turns shooting discs across the circular 1" hole for the bit.
playing surface, aiming for the recessed
center hole or to knock their opponent’s disc
off of the board. But don’t expect your oppo-
2 Install a 1∕4" straight or downcut spiral bit
in your router, and mount the trammel to
the router. Center a pivot hole in the trammel
Learn to cut perfect
circles with a router or
bandsaw.
nents to go easy on you just because you 13" from the near edge of the bit [Drawing 1]. woodmagazine.com/
built the gameboard.
Moving in circles
3 Cut a piece of 1∕2" MDF-core maple ply-
wood to 261∕2" square and drill a 1∕4" hole
in its center. Pin the trammel into the hole
circles
1 Start by making a router trammel [Draw-

ing 1], which you’ll use to shape the board
and inlay scoring lines. Remove the subbase
using a 1∕4" dowel and rout the gameboard
(A) to shape in progressively deeper passes
[Exploded View].
Router base 1 ROUTER TRAMMEL
mounting holes
Get a complete ¼" pivot holes (Drilled after mounted to router.

See instructions for placement.)
overview of the rules
of play. CL
6"
woodmagazine.com/
crokinolerules
1" hole for ¼" plywood or MDF
router bit
24"
woodmagazine.com 59
Straightedge
A
A
Rout between outer

grooves only.
A B
Insert a 1⁄4"
dowel in the center of the gameboard (A), and rout a 5⁄32"-deep Reinstall your router's subbase and rout the perpendicular grooves between the
groove using each pivot location on the trammel, making two passes for each. two outer grooves. Clamp a straightedge to the gameboard (A) to guide the cut.
4 Install a 1⁄16" straight bit in your router.

Drill pivot holes in the trammel at 4", 8",
and 12" from the far edge of the bit [Drawing
1]. Rout the grooves on the gameboard [Draw-
ing 2, Photos A, B].
Epoxy for the win

1 Brush three coats of shellac in each
groove to seal the MDF core and prevent
the dyed epoxy fill from staining the sur-
A
Buy premixed rounding area. After the last coat in the

dewaxed shellac. grooves dries, apply a coat to the whole sur-
woodmagazine.com/ face of the gameboard.
easyshellac
2 Mix up 2 oz. of epoxy [Sources], then mix
in three drops of pigment. Transfer the
epoxy to a syringe [Sources] and make the
first fill in the gameboard grooves [Photo C]. C
3 After the epoxy cures, trim it flush [Photo
D]. Mix up another 2 oz. of dyed epoxy
and apply a second fill [Photo E]. Allow the
Start filling the inner circle and work towards the outside, filling the grooves
and looking for low spots as you go. Don’t fret about overflow—excess will be
trimmed flush after it cures.
epoxy to cure, then trim off the excess.
Then, sand off the shellac coating.
A
A
E
Apply the second fill the same as the first, allowing the bead to pool slightly on
D the surface of the gameboard to fill any voids. Even a small bead will overflow the
Use a cranked-neck chisel or plane iron to slice off the excess epoxy. groove since it is mostly filled at this point.
30½"
45º
C
815/16"
2 GAMEBOARD
90º
1/16" grooves
5/32" deep
Tip! Bandsaw the plug

(B) oversized, then sand
to the line, checking the
4 Drill the pilot holes for the bumper peg
screws in the center ring of the game-
board (A) [Drawing 2]. Drill the center hole to
4 Apply a finish to the game discs. We
stained 13 black and gave the other 13 a
coat of natural oil. Once the finish cures,
fit in the gameboard (A) final dimension and cut the plug (B) to fit spray a topcoat of lacquer on each. Invite
as you go. [Exploded View]. over some challengers, and don’t forget the
finger stretches!
In the gutter
1
Produced by Zach Brown with Brian Bergstrom
Cut to shape the base (C) [Drawing 2]. Cen- Project design: John Olson
ter the gameboard (A) on the base and Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine, Lorna Johnson
trace around the perimeter. Paint the base
black in the area outside of the gameboard.
Materials List
2 Cut to size the sides (D), 1" longer than
the size listed. Rabbet the bottom edges. Part T
FINISHED SIZE
W L Matl. Qty.
3 Miter-cut the sides to fit [Exploded View],

then glue the sides to the base.
A* gameboard
B plug
1∕ 2"
1∕4"
26" dia.
13∕8" dia.
MM
C
1
1
C base 1∕ 2" 301∕2" 301∕2"
Finish and get flicking MM 1
1
1∕ 2" 13∕4"
Note: To achieve a Apply a clear finish to all of the parts. For D* sides 13" C 8
game-ready finish, use the gameboard (A), we sprayed two coats *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
Materials key: MM–MDF-core maple plywood, C–cherry.
a fine abrasive pad to of shellac followed by three coats of lacquer on Supplies: #8×3∕4" flathead screws.
sand the parts between the gameboard, base assembly, and plug (B). Bits: 1∕4" straight or downcut spiral router bit, 1∕16" straight router bit.
coats. Buff out the final
coat on the surface of
the gameboard with
2 Screw the base assembly to the game-
board, centered, then glue the plug to the
base [Exploded View].
Sources: Game kit includes 3∕8" thick×11∕4" dia. wood discs (26), 3∕8"
silicone tubing, #8×3∕4" roundhead brass screws, and rubber feet (3), Kit
no. RS-01333, $28, woodstore.net/crokinolekit, 888-636-4478.
3
EcoPoxy UVPoxy (500 mL) no. EPUVK20-500ML, $44; EcoPoxy black color
0000 steel wool. Screw the rubber feet to the bottom of the pigment (60 mL) no. EPPGP10-BK60ML, $16, The Woodsmith Store,
base and the bumpers to the inner ring of thewoodsmithstore.com, 515-254-9494. Syringe applicator (2),
the gameboard [Exploded View]. woodmagazine.com/syringe.
woodmagazine.com 61
TV Stand
HD, 4K, 8K... no one will care with your set secured to this scene-stealing riser.
T
his minimal, yet sturdy, stand serves as
a great upgrade from your flatscreen’s
flimsy feet. It also provides clearance
below the screen to stash your remote or
other equipment.
We sized ours to fit screens around 48",
but you can easily customize the height to fit
a range of sizes.
Watch a video of
building this project.
woodmagazine.com/
tvstand
Approximate
30" W × 12" D × 20 ½" H
materials cost:
$50
96
of American
%
households
have a TV.

Countersunk pilot hole with a
3/8" counterbore, ¼" deep
¾ x 4" notches #8 x 1½" F.H. screw
3/8" plug
6" D
8"
18" C
1½" holes ¾ x 4" notch
with 1/8" C
round-over
for cable
managment D TV mount
A B
#8 x 2" F.H. screw

EXPLODED VIEW
Cut these big dovetails
using your tablesaw.
B
12"
Turn up the base 1 SUPPORT BAR

Note: The TV mount
can be secured to the 1 Cut the support bar (A) to size, then lay
out the dovetails [Materials List, Drawing 1]. 11"
mounting plate (D) or
the uprights (C). If you 2 Cut the dovetails on the ends of the sup-
port bar (A) [Photos A, B].
18º
A 4"
choose the latter, match
the hole-spacing in your
TV mount.
3 From 1½" stock, cut two 2¾×12½" blanks
for the feet (B) [Drawing 2]. Trace the dove-
tails from the support bar (A) onto the top of
1½"
30"
each foot blank [Photo C].
A B
A
A
Stopblock 2¾"
A
Install a tall fence on your miter gauge, and use a B C
stopblock to position the workpiece for the first cut. After resetting the blade tilt to 0°, cut away the Position the support bar (A) 2¾" from one end of
Flip the piece face-for-face to cut the other side of dovetail shoulders at the tablesaw, staying clear of a foot blank (B), and flush with the side. Mark the
the dovetail. the corners. Clean out the corners with a chisel. edges of the dovetail. Repeat for the other blank.
woodmagazine.com 63
B
A A
Foot-blank
top sections
Foot-blank middle
section
E
Glue and clamp one end of the top to the middle
section of the foot blank, flush with the end and F
D sides. After the glue dries, glue and clamp the other Take care not to change the fit of the dovetail joint
Adjust your miter gauge to 18° and cut on the end with the support bar (A) in place as a gauge. when finish-sanding the support bar (A) and feet (B).
inside of your layout lines. Remove the support bar while the glue dries. Glue and clamp the support bar to the feet.
Tip! Before cutting up

the feet (B) blanks, mark
the faces of each to aid
4 Rip each blank into three sections [Draw-
ing 2]. Cut the 1¼" section of each blank to
form the dovetail sockets [Photo D].
2 Drill and round over the holes in the
uprights (C) [Exploded View]. Finish-sand
the uprights and mounting plates (D).
in realigning the grain
during assembly later. 5 Reassemble the top and middle sections
of the feet (B) [Photo E]. After the glue
dries, trim these to length [Drawing 3].
3 Glue and screw the mounting plates (D)
to the uprights (C), then glue and screw
this assembly to the support bar [Exploded
6 Cut the bottom sections of the feet to

length and glue them to the feet assem-
blies [Drawing 3].
View, Drawing 1].
4 Cut and install plugs, touch up any

remaining sanding, and apply a finish of
Watch a video with
tips on cutting and
7 Bevel the feet (B) and sand the round-overs

[Drawing 3]. Then, finish-sand and assemble
the feet and the support bar (A) [Photo F].
your choice. We used General Finishes
American Oak Gel Stain, followed by Gen-
eral Finishes Enduro-Var Flat.
installing wood plugs.
woodmagazine.com/
screwplugs
Stand up straight 5 After the finish dries, install your

mounting hardware and screen. Try not
1 Cut the uprights (C) and mounting plates

(D) to size, and notch the uprights
[Exploded View, Photos G, H].
to be too distracted by your impeccable
craftsmanship while watching your favorite
shows.
1½" B 1½"
Dovetail layout lines
2¾"
2¾"
1/8"saw kerfs 3 FEET 2½" ¼" round-over
1¼" 27º 1¼" B
B 2½"
1"
1½" ¼" 1½"
2 FEET BLANK 12½" ¼" 12"
CUTTING DIAGRAM
Materials List FINISHED SIZE
Part T W L Matl. Qty.
A support bar 1¼" 4" 30" O 1
B* feet 1½" 2½" 12" O 2
C
C uprights ¾" 3" 18" O 2
D mounting plates ¾" 4" 8" O 2
Shoulder *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

cut C Materials key: O–oak.
Supplies: #8×1½" flathead screws, #8×2" flathead screws.
Blade and bits: 1∕8" round-over router bit; 3∕8" plug cutter.
G Source: Tilting TV wall mount bracket, woodmagazine.com/tvmount.
Crosscut the shoulders at the tablesaw, supporting H
the workpiece on edge with a miter gauge. Then, Clean up the bandsaw cut back at the tablesaw, Produced by Zach Brown with Kevin Boyle
complete the notch at the bandsaw, staying just working it back and forth over the blade guided by Project design: Kevin Boyle
inside your layout line. your miter gauge. Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine, Lorna Johnson

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®
through
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at your fingertips.
The WOOD Archive

®
Complete. Searchable. Compact. $149 95
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Work Wonders
With WaxesThese specialty waxes add pop to your project.
F
or centuries, woodworkers have tion. The downsides: Wax doesn’t tolerate
known the benefits of wax as a finish. exposure to water, and it’s not meant for
Wax goes on easily, never runs or areas that will see a lot of wear.
drips, highlights the figure in the wood, While clear, or natural, waxes provide all
provides easy maintenance and repair, and of those benefits, decorative specialty waxes
leaves a surface that feels silky smooth. go a step further by adding eye-catching
Apply it to bare wood or over other finishes, appeal to your projects. Here’s how to put
such as varnish, for an extra layer of protec- them to use on your projects.

Dark brown wax on red oak
Impart color and protection in one step

Applied to bare wood, wood-tone colored a clean cloth. Additional light coats of col-
waxes ranging from light browns to mahog- ored wax add a richer tone to the finish.
anys to ebonys mimic wood stain while add- Make a colored wax the final coat of finish.
ing a protective topcoat. A colored wax also Applying a clear wax over it may dissolve and
highlights the wood grain. remove some of the colored wax. You can use
Apply the wax across the grain to force this to your benefit, though, to lighten the
the pigment into the pores of the wood. Use tone of colored wax already applied.
a dark color on lighter woods to emphasize Wax won’t chip or flake like film-forming
the grain while adding just a bit of color to finishes, making it a child-safe way to finish
the surrounding wood, as shown above. toys. For kid-appeal colors, add tinting
Liberon recommends using their oil-free paste, such as Mixol [Sources], to neutral wax
0000 steel wool for applying thin, even coats, [Photo A]. Highly concentrated and compati-
but a cloth also works well. Make a final pass ble with most finishes, it takes just a few
parallel to the grain. After the wax dries, drops to add a burst of color to a wax finish.
buff it with a soft cloth to create an attractive To color the wax, scoop some neutral wax
satin sheen. onto a mixing surface or into a container, add
If you find streaks or swirl marks in the a few drops of Mixol, stir well, and test the
wax after buffing, it means you applied too color on project scrap. Add more tint as
much wax. To remove the excess, apply needed until you get the desired color, then
another light coat in the direction of the apply it as you would any other wax, buffing it
grain to dissolve the streaks, then buff with to a shine after it dries.
A
A colored wax mimics a stained finish but applies easier and adds protection.
woodmagazine.com 67
Liming wax on red oak
Whitewash with liming wax appear gray.) A little goes a long way. As with
The process of liming A limed finish creates an antiqued look. It’s other pigmented waxes, rub the wax across
wood originated by in fashion with the English-countryside the grain [Photo B]. Before the wax dries, make
applying the mineral farmhouse style. White pigment in the wax a light pass with the grain to eliminate streaks.
lime (and, later, white fills in the pores of the wood, highlighting Let the wax dry for a few minutes, then
lead) to wood floors to them. This effect works best on open-pore buff off the excess for a satin sheen. What
act as a pesticide. woods such as oak and ash. remains on the surface creates a thin, white-
Wipe on liming wax with a lint-free cloth. washed effect. For added protection, apply
(Steel wool leaves particles that make the wax two or three thin coats.
B
Force the pigmented wax into the pores by wiping across the grain. This re-creates the classic look of a
traditional, century-old limed finish.
Gilt cream
Black wax
Easy-to-apply gilt cream contrasts with black-wax colored molding, providing a high-class look for this frame.
All that glitters... smooth with a soft, clean cloth. For built-up
Framers use gilt cream to add a metallic detail moldings or appliques, apply gilt cream to
of gold, silver, or other colors to frames. Like individual pieces before installing them on
other waxes, it doesn’t take much to do the your project. Alternatively, you can mask off
job. One jar will last for many projects. areas before application [Photos C, D]. High-
Apply it in several thin coats—as the name light small details by using a small, stiff brush
suggests, it has a creamy texture—and buff it to apply the gilt cream to specific areas.
C D
To create a two-tone effect, mask off a section before applying the colored wax. After the colored wax dries, buff it out and mask it off before applying gilt cream
Work the wax into recesses using a stiff brush. to the other section of molding.
Patinating (black) wax on red oak
Add age instantly

Patinating wax, a black, highly pigmented wipe off the excess with a cloth, leaving a bit
wax, creates the look of antique furniture by of the wax in the corners and recessed areas
adding patina—which is a nice way of saying of molded profiles. Using a lint-free cloth,
it mimics the years-long buildup of dirt and buff the high areas, or spots that would nor-
grime. It’s a great way to add an aged look to mally see the most wear during the piece’s Sources: Find waxes, gilt
any finish. lifetime, removing most of the color. creams, and Mixol tinting pastes
at woodcraft.com, rockler.com,
Patinating wax works best on projects Applying a coat of clear wax removes and amazon.com. Liberon
with a lot of nooks, crevices, or moldings. more of the patinating wax from the high products are also available at
Use a rag, steel wool, or stiff brush, such as a spots, further accentuating the recesses. talasonline.com.
disposable glue brush, to work the wax into How much patinating wax you remove
these corners and recesses [Photo E]. Then depends on the look you want [Photo F]. Produced by Randy Maxey
E
Apply patinating wax, concentrating on the crevices where dust and grime would naturally collect over time.
F
Use a neutral wax to help remove excess patinating wax and as a final coat for added protection.
woodmagazine.com 69
TOOLS & MATERIALS
SHOP-TESTED
Essential Shop Supplies

Woodworkers do their research before
buying a new tool or machine, but
when it comes to consumables, too Supplies on Demand
often we buy whatever happens to be Rather than shopping at multiple
on sale. These unsung heroes protect stores or websites, stock your
and serve the tools and accessories in shop with most of these essentials
any shop. by pointing your smartphone’s
camera at this code, or visit
Boeshield T-9 rust preventer Bostik GlideCote surface lubricant Bostik BladeCote cutting-tool lubricant
12-oz aerosol, $21 10.75-oz aerosol, $27 10.75-oz aerosol, $27
In our tests, nothing prevents rust After wiping off the Boeshield, Apply this to saw blades, router
on your tablesaw top, jointer and spray on GlideCote (above), then bits, drill bits, holesaws, and other
planer beds, and hand planes bet- buff it off to reduce friction cutting tools to greatly reduce the
ter than T-9. Apply it 3–4 times a between tools and materials. chances of burning the wood and
year in humid climates, less so in rockler.com dulling the tools.
dry climates. rockler.com
woodcraft.com
PitchRx blade cleaner 3M General-Purpose 45 spray adhesive LocTite Blue 242 threadlocker
16-oz spray bottle, $14 10.25-oz aerosol, $7 0.2-oz tube, $7
PitchRx works better than any We like this adhesive for applying Blue 242 prevents bolts and screws,
other product we’ve tested for paper patterns to project parts such as leveling screws on a router
cleaning pitch, resin, and buildup because it holds well during cutting lift or miter-bar adjustment
from blades, bits, and cloth- and releases easily when finished. screws, from working loose due to
backed sanding belts. Any leftover residue cleans up vibration or frequent use without
aroundtheshopinc.com quickly with mineral spirits. permanently locking them the
homedepot.com way red threadlocker does.
lowes.com
Fast Orange hand cleaner Sellars Tool Box White Rags Venom Steel nitrile gloves
15-oz container, $4 200-count box, $12 25-count box, $17; 50-count, $27
No sink? No problem. Fast These heavy-duty paper We prefer these dispos-
Orange easily removes oil and towels work equally able gloves over latex
grease from your hands with- well for cleaning up because they’re thicker
out water. Plus, it smells like messes or for wiping on and more durable, yet still
fresh oranges! finishes, such as oil/ supple enough to not
menards.com varnish blends and oil- hamper dexterity.
based polyurethane. lowes.com
And the box’s dispenser
hole provides easy access.
lowes.com
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
SHOP-TESTED
Five heads are better than one

12-volt 5-in-1 cordless driver, no. DCD703F1, $180
I find a right-angle driver super-handy for driving screws or drilling
holes in tight spots, but I don’t use one often enough to justify the cost
of a dedicated tool. DeWalt’s answer: This multihead tool that not
only provides that functionality, but also comes with an offset chuck
(for reaching into tight corners), a 3∕8" three-jaw chuck, and a stan-
dard 1∕4" hex chuck. And for the times when you just need a shorter
tool, insert a hex-shank bit directly into the tool’s drive shank.
I used the brushless 5-in-1 driver to build an entertainment cen-
ter, chimney cupboard, and shop cabinets and shelves, and I’m
impressed with its power-to-weight ratio. It weighs less than 2 This could easily be the only cordless drill/driver you need for the
pounds, yet easily drives long screws and lag screws. The quick- shop. I wish it came with two batteries, but in everyday use I never
connect heads change out easily and work flawlessly. The rubber exhausted the single 2.0-amp-hour pack that came with it.
overmolded handle provides an excellent grip, and the two-speed —Tested by Bob Hunter, Tools Editor
gearbox and 15-position clutch provide the flexibility for finding the DeWalt
right settings for drilling holes and driving screws. 800-433-9258, dewalt.com
Cut can’t-miss miters with ease

45° miter sled, no. 31593, $30; 221∕2° miter sled, no. 61373, $30
If you have difficulty cutting accurate miter joints, your worries end tiple miters with both sleds, cutting the workpieces both on edge
here. These two glass-filled-nylon sleds, manufactured to precise 45° and lying flat on the tabletop, and each assembly clamped together
and 221∕2° angles, replace your miter gauge for those cuts. (Snugger with gap-free miters. I can’t believe how easily and accurately these
screws on the miter bar eliminate play in the miter slot.) To cut sleds cut miters!
miters, simply hold or clamp your workpiece to the sled fence and —Tested by Bob Hunter
cut the angle, as you would with your miter gauge. Then flip the Rockler
workpiece to the other fence and miter the opposite end. I cut mul- 800-279-4441, rockler.com
Leigh Box Joint
& Beehive Jig
Model B975
SEE VIDEO
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
NEW AND UNTESTED
Ridgid gives venerable sander an overhaul

Benchtop belt/spindle combination sander, no. R4840, $250
Sporting a new, slimmer look with a tubular-steel
frame, Ridgid’s combo sander maintains the
functionality of the previous model (no. EB4424), but
at a lower price. The R4840 provides a 4 24" belt
sander and five sizes of sanding drums (1∕2", 3∕4", 1",
11∕2", and 2"), along with inserts to close the opening
around the drums, and a workpiece stop for belt
sanding.
Ridgid
866-539-1710, ridgidpowertools.com
Craftsman adds stackable portable storage for tools

216-piece Versastack 3-drawer mechanics tool set, no. CMMT99206, $200
Tradestack Rolling Tower, no. CMST60420, $169
Every shop could use more storage (and maybe some new sockets?), and these
stackable units provide that, whether used in the shop or on the go. The mechanics
tool set (below) includes 1∕4"-, 3∕8"-, and 1∕2"-drive ratchets, 111 sockets, 14
wrenches, and other accessories. The Tradestack tower consists of (top to bottom,
at right) a suitcase, deep toolbox, and rolling unit that all snap together; the bottom
two contain small-parts trays. According to Craftsman, all existing Versastack and
Tradestack storage units are compatible with these new models and with other
products in the series.
Craftsman
888-331-4569
craftsman.com

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and even build your own hand tools.
25 downloadable plans for only $25
woodstore.net/handtools
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woodmagazine.com
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These tip, tricks, and
Amp up your rip fence
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jigs improve your fence’s
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Use (or gain)
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skills while crafting

an elegant furniture
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79
Better Homes & Gardens® WOOD® magazine (ISSN-0743-894X); May 2022, Volume 39, No. 2, is published 7 times a year in March, May, July, Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec/Jan by Meredith Operations Corporation, 28 Liberty Street, 7th Floor, New York, NY 10005. Periodicals postage paid at Des Moines, IA, and at additional mailing offices.
Subscription prices: $29.99 per year in the U.S.; $44.99 (U.S. dollars) in Canada; $49.99 (U.S. dollars) overseas. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections
to Better Homes & Gardens WOOD, PO Box 37508, Boone, IA 50037-0508. In Canada: mailed under Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40069223; Canadian BN 12348 2887 RT. ©Meredith Operations Corporation 2022. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.
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S h o c k To o l B a t t e r i e s B a c k t o L i f e p.

ISSUE 281 MAY 2022

The World’s Most Trusted Woodworking Resource

More Great Plans

MAY 2022 • IS SUE 281

PLANS TOOLS & TECHNIQUES DEPARTMENTS

Place strips and tenons into

SHOP TIPS: A CURATED holes overnight to dry.

FINE-ART RETROSPECTIVE overnight. Chair leg

Emergent period. The ‘90s saw the integration of computers into

Early modern. Kurt

on the hands, evoking movement and life,

Contemporary. Modern and traditional are married in the

4 WOOD magazine May 2022

Heirloom dooms bear chairs

Holder lends a hand

After 48 years of waiting, Gary Dean, of Prince George, B.C.,

PENN STATE INDUSTRIES

Dennis Cheney, of Clarks Hill, Ind., borrowed only

For the seventh birthday of his daughter, Dani, Greg Pfeiffer, of

Send us a photo of your work

Doubly Beneficial Shop

COMING SOON! Online or

Mitchell’s new energy-efficient and low-maintenance workshop offers lots of space

when the collection drum fills up; a differen-

ing and interior trim himself, then installed

Take a stand for additional storage space

20 WOOD magazine May 2022

Get tighter miters with

22 WOOD magazine May 2022

Pin hooks into

¾" PVC ball valve

Fold-up pedal lifts to free floor

24 WOOD magazine May 2022

Magnetic Rout dovetails with

#6 x ¾" F.H. screw

¼" hole 20" 1a DOVETAIL DETAIL

2 Laminate 1∕2" plywood to make two

3 Center the tail template on one end of the

R=1" 2 TAIL-ROUTING JIG R=1" 3 PIN-ROUTING JIG

6" 1¾" 6" 1¾"

Blade tilted to 14˚ Backer board attached

¾" flush-trim bit 21∕32"

Pin template Test piece

5 Remove the waste between the fingers of

fingers to loosen the fit

Edge guide Edge guide

2 Form tenons on the ends of the door rails

5 Cut a 10"-long blank for the door pull (G).

4a TENON DETAIL 4b DOOR PULL

E 3/8" 14° bevel 14° bevel

4 Drill counterbores on the top edges of the

2 Apply a finish to all parts. We applied

1½ x 3½ x 48" Walnut I* feet 11∕2" 13∕4" 101∕2" W 4

Beyond construction lumber leisure—something not always possible at a

34 WOOD magazine May 2022

This customizable carryall organizes B

your most-used tools, keeping them

5/16" round-overs 6½"

mizes efficiency. This tote keeps materials cost:

Note: See Sources on

1 HANDLE ASSEMBLY Getting a grip

7/16" 3/16" hole 7/8" rabbet 5/16" deep