Introduction Game Design: Jaye Wiley

What you need to play 1

Cover Art: Jaye Wiley
Turn Sequence 2
Special Cards 2 Interior Spot designs: Ramon Olivera
Actions 3 Playtesters: A lot of people have played over
Reloading 3 the years, but mostly the Basement Generals.
Moving 4 They are, in no particular order: Ken “Lead
Terrain Basics 4 Addict” Boone, Al “Little Al”Troutwine, Chris
Buildings 4 “Cluck Amok” Cluckey, Greg “Where’s the
Shooting 5
cover?” Moore, the 3 Scotts: (Mathews,
Cover & Area Terrain 7
Wounding 7 Wagner and Lindsey), Roger “Just Got
Close Combat 9 Rogered” Reed, John “the New Guy” Fleckal”,
Better Weapons 10 Chad “Don’t look at my record sheet” Gilbert,
Loaded Weapons in Close Combat 10 Nick “Kuski” Wilkowski, Jay “Propaganda
Breaking Down Doors 11 Architect” Reese, Bill “DRT” McHarg, Ramon
Leaders 13 “Silver Fox” Olivera, Steve “Dutch Oven”
Optional Rules 14
Willaredt, Doug “the New, New Guy” Strue,
Traits 15
Scenarios Brett “Polska” Murawski, Marshal “the Boy”
1- Fight at the Farmstead 16 Wiley, and his sister Rowan.
2 - The Road Better Less Travelled 18
3 - Ye Olde Defense of the Bridge 20 My playtesters from Across the Pond: Harvey
4 - Capture the Gun 21 Faulkner-Aston and his son Joe, and Mike
5 - The Last Stand 23
Watson.
Playing at different scales & multi-based
models 24
Special Rules 25 Special thanks goes out to the Fistful of Lead
Yahoo Group for their continued support and
ideas, and anyone over the years who has
played and left a nice review on a web site.
You’re the reason we have a following.

Special, special thanks goes to the overflow-

ing fountain of patience that is my wife
Published by Wiley Game Design
Robin, who understands when I spend way
Copyright Jaye Wiley 2016. All rights reserved
too many hours “playing with my soldiers”.
 Horse and Musket
The original Fistful of Lead had been around for
a long time, when in 2001, I was finally talked
into writing them down and publishing them.
The rules have turned out to have a very small,
but loyal fan base. Those people, who like I,
want rules that can be learned in a couple of
turns, keep the flavor of the period, and are
fast and furious with that Hollywood flair.
Over the years, our local group, the Basement
Generals, have carried the original FfoL into
other periods. And it has worked.
The Horse and Musket period has always had
appeal to wargamers. There are great
uniforms, differing troop types from natives to
European regulars and the last bit of armored
cavalry. Combine those attributes with many
differing locales to fight, and what’s not love?
The drawback has always been which of the
myriad periods to dive into? Huge armies
mean huge money and huge time commit-
ments to painting all that lead or plastic.
Now, you can try out different periods within
the Horse and Musket era without spending a
ton of money. In most games, players will only
need at most, 6 miniatures a piece. Games can
have up to 8 players without slowing the game
down. Perfect for conventions or large gaming
groups.
The game is meant to be scenario based.
Several are provided at the end of the rules
spanning from the French and Indian War to
the American Civil War. But, coming up with
your own scenarios is half the fun.
This was a time of gentlemanly warfare, so
such behavior is highly encouraged. So, don
your powdered wig, straighten your tricorn,
and dive into Fistful of Lead: Horse & Musket.
1
To play Fistful of Lead: Horse & Musket you’ll
need: this rule book (or just the Quick Refer-
ence sheet), 10-sided-dice (referred to as d10),
an ordinary deck of playing cards minus the
Jokers, a tape measure, markers for status
(found in the back of the rules), a place to play,
preferably with terrain and the models repre-
senting you troops.
Before starting, there are a few things you
need to wrap your head around.
If you’re purchasing these rules, we’re assum-
ing you know what a wargame is, so I don’t
have to go into that. The scale is meant for
25-28mm, but you could just as easily use
15mm halving the measurements, or just use
centimeters instead of inches.
One miniature equals one man, and as such,
there is no facing. Players should field 5-6
miniatures and probably include a leader of
some type for each group. This could be a
stalwart NCO or Indian war leader.
This is NOT a simulation of historical warfare. It
IS a great way to spend a couple of hours with
your friends having fun and playing with
soldiers.
And, since you paid for these rules, they are
ultimately your rules. If you don’t like some-
thing, change it.
Your companion throughout the rules is
Sgt. Smith, He’s a bit gruff, but he’s got
some good advice.
 Horse and Musket
1- SHUFFLE CARDS
2- DRAW CARDS, THEN TAKE ACTIONS
Each player is dealt one card for every model
soldier they control. For example, Scott has
three models in his group, so he gets 3 cards.
Ken has two left after a previous turn, so he
gets 2 cards. Players are allowed to look at their
own cards, but not the cards of others.
The turn is played out from highest (King) to
lowest (Deuce) card (Aces are explained in
Special Cards, below).
A player or referee is designated as the Caller.
They begin the turn by calling out “Kings!”.
Every player with a King card (if there is one)
throws it down.
Cards cannot be saved for later. Each card
“activates” one of the player’s models. The
player then takes TWO actions with that
model (see Actions, below).
Once a model has been activated and done its
actions, it may not be activated again until
next turn. Next “Queens!” are called, and all
players with a Queen card go, then Jacks, Tens,
etc. In the case where more than one player
has the same card, Spades go first, then Hearts,
then Diamonds, then Clubs are last.
“Listen up, Recruit! It’s the begin-
ning of a new turn. Steve has been
dealt three cards, one for each
model he controls. He gets a King, a
Jack and a 5. Mike has four cards.
The caller calls out “Kings!”. Steve has two models
in cover and one lone soul standing out in the
middle of a field just asking to be a target.
Steve decides to use his King to activate the
model in the field.
2
He throws down his King and takes both actions
to move to a nearby barn. Next, “Queens!” are
called. Nobody has one, so the turn proceeds to
Jacks. Both Steve and Mike throw down a Jack.
Mike has a Jack of Spades so he goes before
Steve’s Jack of Hearts. Play proceeds until all
models have been activated
Got it? Good!”
In addition to activating figures, some cards
have special qualities. They are referred to as
Special Cards.
They are played just like normal activation
cards, but allow the player to do some unusual
feats and spice up the game. The cards and
their qualities are:
Queen of Hearts- If the model activated with
this card has any wounds, (see Wounds, below)
ONE is healed (remove a wound counter)
instantly. The model still has its 2 actions.
Queen of Spades- If the model activated with
this card is Shaken, (see Shaken, below) it
recovers instantly. The model still has its 2
actions.
One-Eyed Jacks (Hearts & Spades)- The
model activated with this card has a +1 to hit
in Shooting.
Two-Eyed Jacks (Diamonds and Clubs)- The
model activated with this card has a +1 to hit
in Close Combat.
Sevens (any suit)- The model activated with
this card may re-roll any one die result this
turn.
Sixes (any suit)- The model activated with this
card may reload automatically. This overrides
the normal reload rules. The figure still gets 2
actions.
Deuces (any suit)- The model activated with
this card may choose to roll 2 dice for either
Shooting or Close Combat and pick the best
result.
Aces (any suit)- An Ace is wild and can be any
card the player wishes. It must, however, be
played in sequence.
 Horse and Musket
“All right. Let’s say Steve has 2 Aces.
He knows he wants to go first in the
turn, so when the round starts and
“Kings!” are called, he lays down
one of his Aces and states it’s the
King of Spades. If there are no other Kings of
Spades out there (i.e. the real one) he goes first,
since Spades come first in precedence. If, howev-
er, there was a real King of Spades laid down, the
real one would go before Steve’s.”
Here’s another example: Later in the round
“Sixes!” is called. Steve’s been holding on to the
second Ace for just the right moment. The other
players have been ignoring one of his models
because he has “Reload” marker and they know
he needs two actions to reload. Steve lays down
his Ace and calls it a “Six”. His model instantly
reloads and takes one of his actions to blast
away at the models that ignored him! That’ll
teach ‘em.”
A “real” card always takes precedence over an
Ace impersonating it. As in the example above,
a real King of Spades goes before Steve’s Ace
acting as a King of Spades. If multiple Aces are
played, all acting as the same card, the order of
Spades then Hearts, etc. takes precedence.
Sometimes you’ll end up with more cards than
figures. This happens when a player has a
model eliminated before he has a chance to
activate it. The player holds on to the extra
card until the end of the turn and tosses it on
the discard pile.
WHEN ALL CARDS HAVE BEEN PLAYED (ALL
MODELS HAVE BEEN ACTIVATED) A NEW
TURN BEGINS.
3
When a player activates a model, it gets TWO
actions. Some different actions include:
• Moving
• Shooting
• Picking up / dropping something
• Getting on / off a horse
• Jumping from rooftop to rooftop
• Recovering from a Shaken or Wounded result
• Aiming
• Reloading
The list can include anything the players can
think up (agreed upon by all involved).
The actions taken by the figure can be differ-
ent. For instance, a figure could move then
shoot, or shoot then move.
The actions can be the same. For instance, a
figure could move twice (run), but not shoot
twice, unless armed, say, with two pistols.
It takes one action to attempt recovery from a
Shaken result or a Wound (see Wounds, below).
Only one attempt per turn may be made. If the
attempt fails, no other actions may be made
but to Fallback (see Moving, below). If the
attempt succeeds, the figure gets one more
action.
RELOADING
After a model fires, place a RELOAD marker
(either a counter provided or use a cotton
ball) next to the model. It takes two actions to
reload. These actions can not be split up over
different turns.
“Let’s say Scott activates a model
and uses his first action to Shoot.
He places a RELOAD marker next to
the model. For the second action
he could move, but can’t remove the RELOAD
marker without spending two actions uninter-
rupted.
He’ll have to wait until next turn, and hopefully
he’ll get a 6 card.”
 Horse and Musket
Once activated, models move at the following
rates per Action:
DISMOUNTED: CREEP: 3” WALK: 5”
MOUNTED: HORSE: 8” WAGON: 6”
A figure can make any number of turns or face
changes during the course of its movement.
However, if a model comes within 1” of an
enemy it must stop and Close Combat ensues
(see Close Combat, below).
Terrain
Since your game probably won’t happen on a
featureless desert or flat open prairie, let’s deal
with terrain.
Terrain effects the game in two ways. By
impeding movement and giving cover. Cover
will explained more in the Shooting section.
We’ll deal with movement now.
There are several types of terrain:
Open: Fairly obvious, nothing that would
impede movement, open fields or streets. No
Deduction.
Difficult: Includes woods, fields full of crops,
marsh, shallow streams and rubble. Move at
Half rate, i.e. 2.5“ for Foot, 4” for Horse.
For purposes of the game, cavalry cannot
enter woods or buildings.
Impassable: Cliffs, wide and deep rivers. As
the name says, impassable.
Obstacles: Low walls, fences. Subtract 1” per
Move action. High walls take an entire
action.
All terrain should be discussed before the
game begins so that each player is aware of it’s
effects.
4
THE FOLLOWING MODIFIERS APPLY TO
MOVEMENT:
WOUNDS: -1” of movement per wound, per
action moving.
DIFFICULT TERRAIN: Half rate.
OBSTACLES: -1” for low walls and fences, full
action for high walls
UP / DOWN FLOOR -3”
Buildings
Much of the fight can center around buildings.
The size of your buildings may vary, but the
general rules governing movement in/out is as
follows: Entering/exiting a building costs noth-
ing, unless the game scenario has dictated a
closed/locked door (also see “Knocking down
doors”, below). Going up or down a floor costs
3” of movement.
Unless you have a finished inside for your
buildings showing the location of stairs, simply
measure the cost for the stairs from the point
the figure enters the building. A figure can
appear anywhere on the roof (unless a door is
indicated).
Yes, this does mean a figure could theoretically
use an action to move from a doorway to the
roof of a single story building. This can sound
unrealistic, but it doesn’t happen very often,
and it saves the terrain maker from having to
design the “guts” of every building.
Jumping
Some players may wish to have their models
jump from rooftop to rooftop or across a gap
up to 6“ in terrain. A model must use a Move
action and roll a d10, halving the results,
rounding down. Add +1 to this number if the
model has moved at least 2“ prior to the jump.
If the number meets or exceeds the distance,
the model is safe. If he falls short, he falls. Roll
d10 +1 for every 3” fallen on the WOUND
CHART (see below).
 Horse and Musket
“Private Jenkins, being the brave
lad he is, tries to leap from the
burning roof of a barn to the next
building. He uses a Move action
and moves 2 inches to the edge
and rolls a “5”. Half of five rounded down would
be two. Add +1 for moving at least 2” before the
jump and that comes to a 4“ jump. Too bad the
gap was 5 inches. I said he was brave, not smart.”
Creeping- We’re assuming our models are
moving cautiously on the battlefield. However,
if they really want to be careful, instead of
normal 5” move, a model can Creep 3”. A creep-
ing model may go slower but will be harder to
hit. Place a Creep marker next to the model. It
is removed as soon as the model makes a
normal move, fires, or comes within 12” of the
enemy. Any enemy shooting at the creeping
model, does so at a -1.
D
A B
E Ranges are listed on the Quick Reference Sheet
C
F sight of the shooter, roll d10.
Prussian Jaeger A is not at the wood’s edge
and therefore not a target, nor can he shoot
out. B and C are at the wood’s edge and
considered in Light Cover. Jaeger D is out in
the open with no cover, while E and F get
Heavy cover for the wall.
Miniatures are Perry Miniatures from author’s collection.
5
When a model is activated, it can use one of its
actions to shoot. In the swirl of a Fistful of Lead
gunfight, all models have a 360 degree field of
fire. As such there is no facing. Each model can
see and shoot in any direction.
Models can only shoot if they have a straight
line of sight that doesn’t pass through any
other model or terrain. This may require
getting down eye level with the model and
trying to see what he sees. Laser pointers or
string are helpful for this, but hopefully in the
spirit of good fun, both players can decide if a
model has a line of sight
Models are only visible inside terrain or build-
ings, if they are within one inch of the door,
window or edge of the woods. The same is true
if they wish to shoot out from inside cover.
Range is measured from the center of the
shooter model to the center of the target.
There is no premeasuring before firing.
Once you have decided to shoot you may mea-
sure. If the target is out of range, the shot is
wasted.
and are divided between Short and Long.
There is no Close range. That is considered in
Close Combat, below.
If the target is in range, and within the line of
The roll to hit at Short range is 5 or
higher.
To hit at Long Range is 8 or higher
 Horse and Musket

Cover
Our little metal or plastic soldiers are forever
stuck in one pose. It would be wrong to think
Ranges are: Short Long that in the their world, the world of the table-
Pistol 6” 12” top, they aren’t actively crouching behind
Rifle* 16” 32” whatever cover they have, trying not to be hit.
Musket 12” 24” Therefore, we have to think of cover in an
Blunderbuss** 6” 12” abstract way.
Throwing Ax/Knife 3“ 6“
Bow*** 9” 18” If a model is behind a linear piece of terrain like
a wall, even though the model may be stand-
* Rifles took a long time to load. After a model ing presenting a large target, in reality he is
has spent both actions to reload, roll a die. On crouched down behind it. If a model is in
1-5 it will take another full turn (2 actions) to contact with a solid wall, or inside a building
remove the RELOAD marker. On a 6-10, the rifle looking out the window, the model counts as
is loaded. The second attempt is always in Heavy Cover, and this is a -2 to the die roll
successful. of any model shooting at it unless the shooter
**Blunderbuss inflict a +1 modifier to the Wound is positioned in such a way to outflank the
roll at Short range, and -1 at Long. (see Wounds, terrain. For instance, the shooter is in the same
below) building or same side of the wall.
***When shooting a bow and an unmodified “1”
is rolled, roll again. If a 1-5 is then rolled, the It’s helpful if the player controlling the model
figure is permanently Out of Ammo. Also, bows states that they are in cover.
do not require RELOAD markers. They may fire
every action. If a model is behind a linear piece of terrain like
a wooden fence, or something less substantial
IMPORTANT: An unmodified roll of “10” is than stone, it is in Light Cover, and there is a -1
always a hit. An unmodified roll of “1” is always a to the die roll of any model shooting at it.
miss and, in addition, the model’s weapon has
incurred an extra “RELOAD” marker due to a Area Terrain
misloaded round, or fouling of the flash pan, etc. Some areas on the tabletop can be identified
Something bad happened. as Area Terrain. These are your woods or tall
crops. They should have a defined edge, and
be called out before the scenario to all players.
A miniature has to be within 1” of the edge to
Range Example
Shooter shoot out, or be shot at.

While in a Area Terrain, models receive the

Musketeer B Light Cover modifier of -1 to be shot at. Models
over 12”.
A 8 or higher more than 1” away from the edge of terrain,
to hit. cannot be targeted. If two models are within
Musketeer A the same feature, both are in Partial Cover and
under 12”.
A 5 or higher A only have visibility of 6”. So if they are more
to hit. 12” B than 6” from each other they cannot target
each other.

6
 Horse and Musket
SHOOTING MODIFIERS TO THE ROLL:
There are several situations where there may
be a +/- to the To Hit roll.
COVER: Light Cover -1
Heavy Cover -2
WOUNDS: -1 for each wound the shooting
model has (see Wounding, below)
MOVEMENT: Shooter is mounted -1
Target is mounted -1
Target is prone* -1
Target is Creeping -1
ACTIONS: -Shooter used first action to Aim +1
* A model cannot voluntarily go prone. Prone
status is only giving to models that are down
from being Wounded (see below).
“Corporal Hanson has his two
actions to take and decides to take
a shot at a Mohawk Brave. He is at
Short range. He takes the first
action to Aim.
He uses his second action to shoot and rolls a “4”.
Normally, this would be a miss, but because he
aimed with his first action this turn, he got a +1
to the roll making it a “5” and therefore a hit.
Good work, Hanson!”
Shooting into groups-
A particularly bloodthirsty player may want to
shoot into a group. To see if they hit their
target, an innocent civilian or possibly their
friend, use the following procedure: Use a tape
to measure between target and shooter as
normal. If the tape crosses over any part of an
intervening model’s base, that model is a
potential target. Roll to hit. If a hit is scored,
randomly determine who is hit. If there are two
targets, odds hits one, even hits the other. If
there are three targets, 1-3 hits first, 4-6 hits
the second, 7-9 hits the third and reroll a “10”.
7
“Our Private Jenkins decides to
take a shot into a swirling melee
between a French Voltiguer and a
fellow soldier, Private Taylor.
The distance is Short range. Private Jenkins rolls a
“6”, which is a hit. He rolls to see who got hit. Odds
the Frenchie gets it, even it’s poor old Taylor.
Jones rolls a “4” and has some explaining to do to
the Sergeant.
Each time a model is hit by either gunfire, or
falling, roll on the following chart:
Roll Result
1-5 Shaken
6-8 Wounded
9-10+ Out of Action
A +1 is added to the die roll for each Wound
already sustained by the affected model.
Shaken:
The model takes no damage, but has tempo-
rarily lost courage. Mark them with a “Shaken”
counter. If in cover, they do nothing but hide. If
in the open, they will move immediately 5”
towards the nearest cover (8” if mounted).
Either way, a model can do nothing (no
actions) until their next activation (he’s too
busy cowering).
The next time the model is activated, he must
roll to become “unshaken”.
Roll d10. On a “6-10”, he becomes unshaken
and still has one action.
On a “2-5”, the model is still shaken but may
fallback up to 5” away from the enemy. They
may not roll again this turn to recover.
If a “1” is rolled, the model has decided to “live
to fight another day” and is removed from play.
 Horse and Musket
If a model is attacked in Close Combat while
Shaken he’ll stand and fight back, but receives
a -1 modifier to his Close Combat roll. If the
model wins the subsequent melee he will gain
back his courage, unshaken. Remove the
marker.
If a model is activated using the Queen of
Spades Special Card, it’s automatically unshak-
en without having to roll, and still gets its 2
actions.
Wounded:
The model is hit and drops where he/she is,
prone.
They may do nothing but try to recover next
activation. Follow the same procedure from
the “Shaken” result above to get up, with the
exception that rolling a “1” means the model
has died of their wounds. Remove the model
from play. The model may also crawl 2“ after a
failed recovery roll.
From now on the figure has a -1 modifier per
Wound, to all Shooting and Close Combat
attempts, and a -1” to move action per Wound.
If a model is activated using the Queen of
Hearts Special Card, it automatically gets up
without having to roll, removes 1 Wound
marker and still gets its 2 actions. This is the
only way to remove a Wound.
3 Wounds and the model is Out of Action
If a prone Wounded model is hit and receives a
“Shaken” result, they are not both Shaken and
Wounded. They are still just Wounded.
If a standing Wounded model is hit and
receives a Shaken result they are Shaken, but
roll to recover as if Wounded with the model
remaining standing.
8
If a model is Wounded while standing within 1”
of a rooftop edge, roll d10. An even result
means the figure falls wounded on the
rooftop. On an odd result, the figure falls off
and rolls again on the Wound Chart, with a +1
to the roll per 3” fallen.
If a model is attacked in Close Combat while
Wounded and on the ground, the figure
remains prone and not only receives the nega-
tive modifier for being wounded, but also a -1
for being prone. Even if he wins the fight, he
remains prone until he makes a successful roll
to stand.
Defeated models that are mounted, fall off and
the horse runs off. This may seem unrealistic,
but it’s easier in game terms. That way you
don’t need a separate horse without a rider
that you have to randomly move each turn.
If you are lucky enough to have separate
horses and riders, you may, of course use
them. Use the d10 to randomly move the
horse. Roll a d10. The “point” of the die gives
you a direction, and the number is how many
inches moved.
To show a figure is Wounded, place them on
their side with a “Wounded” marker provided
in the rule book.
Out of Action:
The model might be dead, too wounded to
carry on, or just plain scared. Remove the
model from the table or use some other
method to show their state.
Shaken vs Pinned
In the original Fistful of Lead Wild West rules, a
model can become pinned from gunfire, ducking
and sometimes hitting the dirt.
I didn’t think this reaction was in the spirit of the
Horse & Musket period. Our stalwart chaps may
get a little rattled or “shaken”, but would never
cower on the ground!
 Horse and Musket

If the score is a tie, the win goes to model with

the better weapon (see Better Weapons,
below). If neither has a better weapon, then
the tie is won by the attacker.

When model wins a combat by 1 or 2

When a model ends its movement within 1” of
points, they may:
an enemy, Close Combat occurs. This
happens even if the figure used both its
A: Stay locked in combat, with the loser
actions to get there.
Shaken.
As with Shooting, there is no premeasuring.

Before we go any further, some assumptions

have to be made. Close Combat not only
includes fisticuffs, but musket and pistol butts,
bayonets and most importantly close-in
B: Push the loser back up to 2”, with the
shooting.
loser Shaken.
Warning: Close Combat is particularly nasty.
Someone will almost always be wounded or
out of action. Use it for those occasions you
want to settle things once and for all.

The procedure for resolving Close Combat is

simple. The two opponents both roll d10. Both
models add any modifiers to the die roll.
C: Switch places with the loser, with the
loser Shaken.
The highest modified die is the winner and
subtracts the loser’s die roll from his. The differ-
ence in the two rolls give the result on the
following table:

1-2: Winner may push back the loser 2”, or

keep them locked in Close Combat, with the
loser “Shaken”. The winner also has the option
of switching positions with the loser. This may
come in handy to keep from being pushed off
a wall, or backed into a corner.

3-4: Winner knocks loser prone and “Wound-

ed”.

5 or more: Loser is Out of Action

9
 Horse and Musket
A model cannot be “outflanked” by another
model. When a model comes within Close
Combat range, the target will turn to face the
attacker. This prevents unrealistic movement
where the attacker runs past, then around his
opponent to hit him from behind.
B If Musketeer A gets any closer
to B, he’’l be within 1” and have
to fight in Close Combat. If he
1” wants to engage C, he’ll have
to stay wide of B.
A “Let’s say that French soldier
The Concept of Better Weapons
Most of your miniatures for the Horse and
Musket period are going to be armed with, you
guessed it, the musket. Muskets could be used
like a spear with a fixed bayonet or a club.
Close Combat weapons have no combat
bonus per se, but weapon quality and reach
can influence the combat.
When two opposing miniatures use the same
weapon there is no modifier to the combat roll.
If two models fight with different Close
Combat weapons, the one with the better
weapon will benefit from a +1 to their roll.
From Best to Worst:
Mounted Lance > Halberd/Pike > Sword >
Musket with bayonet > Axe > Musket without
bayonet or improvised weapon > Unarmed
“Lt. Brown, brandishing his sword,
is holding the entrance to a farm-
house. A French soldier charges
Brown using a musket and bayo-
net.
Brown gets a +1 to his die roll in the ensuing fight
because a sword is a “better” weapon than the
musket in Close Combat.”
10
Using a loaded weapon in Close Combat
Models without a RELOAD marker next to
them, therefore having a loaded weapon, are
at an advantage. They may elect to use that
weapon in the fight. Before any dice are rolled
for the melee, a player with a loaded weapon
may elect to roll two dice, and take the best
roll. This reflects the close-in shooting before
bayonets clashed. After the fight, any model
using this advantage gains the usual RELOAD
marker.
charging Lt. Brown had a loaded
musket. Before the dice are rolled
the French player decides to use 2
dice. He rolls a “5” and a “8” to
Brown’s “6”. The French player chooses the “8”,
thus beating Lt. Brown. The close range
discharge pushing him out of the doorway.”
Multiple Combatants
If a model is attacked while still in contact with
another opponent (i.e. they both survived the
last round of close combat, or the combat was
a tie last round), he will turn to face the new
opponent. A Multiple Combat then takes
place. A Multiple Combat can take place by
intention or accident when a model moves
within 1 inch of two opponents.
All the models involved roll d10, adding modi-
fiers. The highest roll wins subtracting the
lower roll of his opponent. It is possible for a
figure to lose to one opponent, but beat
another.
“Pvt. Hicks is mixing it up with a
Yank. He failed to take him out last
turn, and they’re still locked in
combat. Private Jones decides to
help Hicks when he is activated.
They all roll. Yes, when a new model enters the
melee another fight occurs. Jones’s die is an “8”,
beating the Yank’s “6”, which drops to “5” due to
the minus one modifier for being outnumbered.
The Yank, however, beat Hicks by 2, because
Hicks rolled a “3”. The Yank will have a Wound,
8-5=3, and Hicks gets pushed back before the
Yank goes down. (5-3=2).”
 Horse and Musket
“Here’s another example: Private
Black is taking on two Mohawk
Braves. The braves roll a “10” and a
“6”, with Black getting a sorry “3”.
Being outnumbered, Black has a minus 1 to his
roll, knocking his number down to “2”. Black got
beat by 8 and by 4 points. One of those is a
wound, and the other an Out of Action. Black has
to take the worst of the two. Looks like I’m writing
a letter to the Mrs....”
CLOSE COMBAT MODIFIERS TO THE DIE ROLL
Wounds: -1 for each Wound the figure has.
Mounted: +1 if mounted (if defeated model is
wounded, he is dragged from horse)
Outnumbered: -1 per attacker after first
(i.e. -1 for facing 2 attackers, -2 for 3 attackers etc.)
Better Weapon: +1
Shaken: -1
Defending a wall/defensive terrain: +1
Redcoats and Natives battle it out in the woods. Miniatures from the collection of Chris Cluckey.
11
Breaking Down Doors and Other Obstacles
Smashing a door down or tearing down a
fence is treated just like a Close Combat,
except the door has a fixed roll depending on
its strength.
Wooden Fence: 3 Door: 4
Reinforced Door: 6 Timber Wall: 7
Stone Wall or Rubble: 7
Those models attacking a door roll a die and
compare to the “roll” of the door. Just like in
Close Combat, if you beat the roll, take the
difference and look at the Wound Chart. A
Shaken result means nothing, while a Wound
damages the structure, and Kill destroys a door
or creates a 2” wide hole in a section of wall or
fence. You may assign structures a number of
wounds, but I would recommend 3. Wooden
fences have the same wounds as a timber
wall? Yes, but that’s because it’s easier to
damage the fence with its 3 defense roll.
 Horse and Musket
“Here’s an example of a couple of
turns. Our two players are Mike
and Steve. They each control 4
models. Steve is dealt:
Mike gets:
Steve volunteers to be the Caller and starts with
“Kings!”
Mike has the King of Hearts so he discards it and
starts to activate a model, but Steve interrupts
him.
Steve has decided to use his Ace of Clubs as a wild
card King of Spades. Spades go before Hearts in
suit order. Steve activates first using both Actions
to move, followed by Mike with his King of
Hearts. Mike moves his model twice.
“Queens” is called next. Only Mike has a Queen. It
is the Queen of Hearts, which used as a Special
Card allows him to heal one wound from the
activated model. Mike has no wounded models,
so this one just gets used as a regular card.
Mike uses the first Action to move his model out
into the open, and the second to shoot at one of
Steve’s soldiers. It’s a miss. The model gets a
reload marker.
“Jacks” are next. Steve activates another model
and plans to use his first action to aim and his
second to shoot at Mike’s model in the open.
By using the first action to aim, Steve gets a +1 to
his Shooting roll.
Steve gets an additional +1 because he activated
his model with a “One Eyed Jack”, which used as
a Special Card, gives him +1 on shooting rolls.
Mike’s model is 13” away. Steve’s model is using a
musket, making it long range. Long range
requires an 8+ to hit. Steve rolls a “6”. This would
have normally missed but the two bonuses give
him a final result of 8 (6+1+1=8). A Hit! And a
reload marker.
12
“Steve rolls on the Wound chart and gets a “7”,
wounding Mike’s model. Where’s that Queen of
Hearts now?
“Tens” are up next, but neither player has one, so
it’s on to “Nines”. Steve gets to go again.
He decides to try and close with Mike’s wounded
model and uses both his actions to move. Steve
measures and moves his model 10” (five inches
per move action) and finds he’s short of the 1”
distance to be in range for Close Combat.
Remember, no premeasuring....
“Eights, Sevens, and Sixes” are called but no one
has these cards. When the “Five” comes up, Mike
uses it first to move, then shoot. He misses. Give
that fellow a RELOAD marker!
The same for Steve when his “Three” is called.
Steve has now activated all his models.
When the “Two” comes up, Mike uses it for its
Special Card ability. Any model activated by the
Deuce can roll two dice and take the best result.
At 11” he is within Close range for his model’s
musket. He rolls a “3” and a “9”, keeping the “9”.
He also rolls a “9” on the Wound chart taking his
target Out of Action.
The turn is over. All models have activated.”
All cards are shuffled.
On Turn 2, Steve is only dealt 3 cards as one of his
models is dead.
Mike still gets 4.
Steve is dealt:
Mike has:
When “Kings” are called, Mike uses his King of
Spades to go first, but Steve had also thrown in
his Ace as a wild card to be a King of Spades. Mike
has the “real” King and goes first.
Mike uses his actions to reload. What a waste of
an Ace!
Steve shoots and manages to cause one of Mike’s
models to be “Shaken”. RELOAD!
 Horse and Musket
“Queens” is called and Mike uses
his Ace of Clubs as wild to be a
Queen of Hearts. He activates
his wounded model. A Queen of
Hearts discards a wound and
allows the model to stand and still have two
actions. Mike’s model realizes his wound was just
a graze and uses an action to shoot back. He
misses. He uses the second action to duck into
cover. Another RELOAD marker.
The cards are called until “Sixes” come up. Steve
has an unactivated model with a RELOAD
marker, and uses it to automatically reload. With
two actions still left, Steve aims, fires, and kills
one of Mike’s unactivated models. He gets a
RELOAD marker.
Mike uses a Four to try and un-Shaken his final
model. He rolls a “3”. His model remains Shaken.
The other Four is discarded. He’s out of models
now.
Steve has the final model and activates it with his
Three. He uses both actions to close with Mike’s
Shaken model.
He makes it. They fight a Close Combat Both
models are armed similarly.
Mike rolls a “5”, which becomes a “4” because of
the -1 for being Shaken. Steve gets a “7” . Steve
beat Mike by a margin of three and Mike's model
is now on the ground Wounded.”
D models can find themselves in:
B Rifleman A needs to Reload. B is loaded
E
A needs to Reload. He’ll need to recover
C Knuckleduster Miniatures from the author’s hoard.
F
13
Each player can comfortably control 5-6
models. One model should be leader of the
group. Smaller groups should have one overall
leader for a side. Leaders at this scale could be
an NCO, a native war leader, or even a lower
ranking officer. That’s not to say you couldn’t
create a scenario where a higher ranking
leader is present, but rarely did a general lead
so small a number of troops into battle.
The role of the leader in Fistful of Lead: Horse
and Musket is not only to fight on the tabletop,
but also lend some special bonuses to his men.
Leaders give a +1 to the die roll to any
model attempting to make a roll to recover
from being Shaken or Wounded. The model
must be within 12” and within line of sight (not
blocked by terrain) of the officer to give this
“encouragement”.
A natural roll of “1” still causes model to route
when attempting to become unshaken, and
expire from their wounds if rolling to get up
from a wound.
Leader may also be Hardened Veterans (see
Optional Rules, below).
Here are some examples of states your
and ready. C is wounded and prone, while
Rifleman D is Shaken. E is Shaken and
from Shaken before he can Reload.
Rifleman F is Wounded but must have
recovered at some point and is now
standing.
 Horse and Musket

The following rules are optional and should be
agreed upon by those involved before imple-
menting.
Victory Points-
Some people just can’t play games without
keeping score. Here are some Victory Points
(VPs):
Each opposing Wounded soldier: 2 VPs
Each opposing Out of Action Soldier: 5 VPs
Other Victory Points should be awarded by
scenario, for example: Capture of an important
ford or blockhouse: 10 VPS
A VP goal should be set, and first to get it wins.
For example, first player to 30 VPs in 2 player
game.
Hardened Veterans and Green Militia-
One model per player may be designated as a
Hardened Vet. This figure uses a twelve-sided
die (d12) instead of a d10 for all rolls but those
on the Wound Chart.
10-Queen: Gutsy. The player’s entire group
must check morale every time a model on
their side receives a Wound after 50% of the
unit (rounded up) are gone.
King: Ace. Courageous/Desperate. Fight to
the last.
As soon as the above conditions are met, each
member of the unit must roll. The procedure is
the same as rolling to recover from Shaken or a
Wound.
To check Morale make a d10 Roll:
1: Model leaves the board if Shaken,
Out of Action if Wounded.
2-5: If the model is in the open they
retreat one move away from the
nearest enemy and are “Shaken”.
If in cover they are fine.
6+: Model is fine, carry on.

Some models, such as civilians or particularly

worthless Militia use an eight sided die (d8) for
all rolls but those on the Wound Chart.

Morale- (highly optional) A morale system is

already built into Fistful of Lead. For instance,
you get less options (cards) as you lose models.
Also, a roll of “1” when Shaken or Wounded
removes a model. But some people want
more. Here is an optional rule for Morale:
Draw a card per player before the game starts.
2-3: Lilly Livered. The player’s entire group
must check morale every time a model on
their side receives a Wound.
4-9: Joe Average. The player’s entire group
must check morale every time a model on
their side receives a Wound after 25% of the
unit (rounded up) are gone.

14
 Horse and Musket
For more variety, before starting the game,
pull a card for each model and compare to
chart below. This is that model’s Positive Trait.
2: Stone Killer- +1 to all Wound rolls against
opponents.
3: Nerves of Steel- Ignores first Shaken result.
4: Stealthy- -1 to be hit if target of Shooting.
5: Quick- +1” to movement Actions.
6: Deft- Reloading only takes 1 Action. In other
words, they may be able to fire every turn. If
rifle armed, the model still takes 2 Actions to
reload, but ignores the special extra roll usually
needed.
7: Lucky- May re roll any die roll once a turn.
8: Clever- Model gets 2 cards at beginning of
the round. Player must choose which one to
use and discards the other.
9: Tough as Nails- Model can take up to 4
Wounds instead of 3.
10: Coolheaded- +1 to all Shaken recovery-
.rolls
Jack: Deadeye- +1 to all Shooting rolls
Queen: Sawbones- May heal other models.
Model must move next to the wounded and
expend an Action to roll 5+. If successful,
wounded figure heals one wound. If a 4 or less
is rolled, a wound is inflicted.
King: Veteran- Model uses rules for Hardened
Veteran.
Ace: Choose one of the above except Veteran.
15
Next pull a card for each model’s Negative
Trait.
2: Sickly- +1 to all Wound rolls made against
this model.
3: Coward- Must roll a 5+ before engaging in
Close Combat.
4: Lousy shot- -1 to hit when Shooting.
5: Slow- -1” to movement Actions.
6: Buckets of Bullets- When shooting if a “1” is
rolled), roll again. On a “1, 2 or 3” the model is
completely out of ammo for the rest of the
game. No Shooting.
7: Unlucky- Each enemy model may re roll any
die roll against you once a turn.
8: Gunshy- -1 to Wound rolls made against
opponents.
9: Weakling- Model can only take up to 2
Wounds instead of 3.
10: Lilly livered- -1 to all Shaken rolls.
Jack: Sissy- -1 to all Close Combat rolls.
Queen: Drunk- Starts game as if has one
Wound already (with all the minuses associat-
ed). Can “heal” during the game as usual with a
Queen of Hearts.
King: Green- Figure uses rules for Green
Militia.
Ace: Choose two more cards
If Positive/Negative Traits counter-act each other, (For
example a Positive Ace”Veteran” & a Negative Ace
“Green”) draw again.
This will require a bit of record keeping to remem-
ber who has what. The easy thing would be just
give your leader traits. The other way would be to
name each miniature on a small card with their
corresponding traits.
 Horse and Musket

The single player should control the settlers.

Coming up with, then playing out scenarios, is
what Fistful of Lead is all about. Whether it’s
getting inspiration from movies, or writing
them yourself, a good story can make all the
difference. Included are several sample scenar-
ios from different periods within the Horse and
Musket time line. Each includes extra rules that
add flavor to the period, but the scenario itself
could easily be used for different periods.
Scenario 1: Fight at the Farmstead
French and Indian War for 2-4 players
Table size 4’ x 4’
Unbeknownst to the Native player, the farm-
stead is not lightly defended by a farmer and
his wife. Four colonial Rangers, on leave from
the fighting and on their way home, have
stopped in for the night. They’ll help defend
the settlers at all costs.
Set Up:
The Native player(s) set up anywhere in the
woods. As a reminder, a model may only shoot
out of terrain, or be targeted if within an inch
of the edge.
The Settler/Ranger player may set up
anywhere within the cabin or fenced in area.

One aspect of warfare during the French and Woods Woods

Indian War involved hostage taking. Many
natives used the captured as bargaining chips
with the white settlers, or used them just to fill
their own depleted tribal ranks.
House

For this scenario, one to three players will take

on the role of the raiding party, controlling 9
Natives. They should be armed with a mix of
muskets and hand-to-hand weapons. Their
goal is to capture the isolated settlers, a lone
farmer and his family.
They receive 10 Victory Points for every settler
Woods Woods
they capture by carrying off the board.

British Light Infantry scout ahead looking for Rebels. Wargames Foundry Miniatures from the collection of Jon Fleckal.

16
 Horse and Musket
Minutemen defend a fence line.
Wargames Foundry Miniatures from the collection of Jon Fleckal.
Natives- Native Americans weren’t particularly
found of fighting out in the open. They
preferred ambush and what we would call
today, guerrilla tactics. When in the woods, any
roll to recover from Shaken or Wound, gets a
+1. Any roll to recover from a Shaken or Wound
in open terrain or building, is at a -1 to the roll.
Natives have no movement penalty in the
woods.
In addition, if a Native leaves a wooded table
edge, they may re-enter any other wooded
table edge after missing one turn (don’t deal a
card for them). This simulates their knowledge
of the local environment. They know every
short cut and deer track.
17
Capturing- Instead killing an opponent in
Close Combat, you may capture instead. A
player must declare they are trying to capture
and a Close Combat is fought as usual,
although the attacker is not allowed to fire
their weapon. The loser is captured instead of
Shaken, Wounded, or Killed. If the defender
wins the combat, the player trying to capture
still suffers the ill effects of combat (Shaken,
Wound, Death).
If captured, the figure is now under control of
the player who captured them. The figure does
not receive a card. The hostage taker moves
the hostage when they Activate.
This hostage must stay in base to base contact
with his/her captor. They may only be released
when their captor is Wounded or Killed.
Shaken won’t do it.
If the Captor and his hostage are shot at, the
hostage may be hit (see Shooting, page 7). If the
hostage is freed, they will be dealt a card as
usual next turn.
One model can only have one captive at a
time.
 Horse and Musket

Scenario 2: The Road Better Less Traveled

American War of Independence for 2-4 players The American forces should consist of 2
Table size 4’ x 4’ groups of 5 miniatures. One miniature of the
10 should be an officer or NCO and rated as a
The British are attempting to get a supply Leader.
wagon down a wood lined, lonely road. The
perfect place for an ambush!
Woods
Set Up:
The British player(s) start with a horse drawn
wagon or cart and two units of 5 miniatures.
One miniature of the 10 should be an officer or
NCO and rated as a Leader (see Leaders, pg 13). British start
The British must set up on the road at one end.
All miniatures in a unit should be in base to
base contact to simulate them being on the
march. After cards are dealt, they are free to
move about. The wagon should be placed
between the two units. Woods

The American player(s) will start in the woods

to either side of the road and follow the
Ambush Special Rules (see below).

These rules were designed for the low level
warfare that happened on the fringe of
conflicts. Wargaming the big battles are fun,
but sometimes just out of reach of most
gamer’s budgets and time.
I’ve always been fascinated by the raids,
skirmishes and guerrilla wars that happened
during these larger conflicts.
In fact, if you look at the Age of Horse and
Musket, or the Black Powder era, the number
of skirmishes far out number the large
battles. The French and Indian Wars were
filled with countless firefights and raids
between the two sides. There are only a
handful of large battles to be fought on the
North American front of the Seven Years War.
The same could be said for American War of
Independence.
While battles raged in the Middle Colonies,
countless raids and counter raids were being
fought in the Northern and Southern Colo-
nies between Loyalists, Rebels and Indians.
Most wargamers tend to jump from period
or genre to the next as we see some inspira-
tional movie or book. We say, “That’s cool!”
and start buying hordes of models that sit in
a pile after we paint a couple dozen, when
the next shiny thing meets our eyes.
Here’s a chance to collect and paint a small
group of miniatures for that period you’ve
been excited about without emptying your
wallet.
Find a chapter from your favorite heroic
historical fiction novel or movie, grab these
rules, and get to gaming!

18
 Horse and Musket
Ambush- The American Militia player starts
hidden. Rather than rely on a hand drawn map
and secret placement, simulate the ambush by
doing the following:
Keep the ambushing miniatures off the table
for now. Deal the American player cards as
usual. When a card comes up for activation, the
ambushing player has the option of passing,
and keeping his miniature off the table for
now, or placing it on the battlefield. When
placing the miniature, it must start in cover, in
the woods in this case, and more than 12” from
any enemy miniature. Once placed, that minia-
ture stays on the table and is “in the game”.
Appearing on the table costs one action so
they will only have one action this turn. If they
use that action to Shoot, they may do so at a
+1 this turn only, to represent surprise.
However, miniatures that have passed must
wait until the next turn. At that time, they may
pass again or be placed on the battlefield.
The Wagon- If you’re lucky enough to have a
wagon with a driver figure, the player
controlling the wagon will be dealt an extra
card. This is used to move the wagon. If you
don’t have a driver, assign one of the minia-
tures from a unit to lead the horses. In this
case, no extra card is dealt.
When activated, the wagon moves at the
normal walk speed of a man (5”) per move
action if on the road. If the wagon begins a turn
not on the road, roll a d10.
1-4: The wagon is stuck. 5-10: No effect
You must make this roll any time the wagon
begins a move not on the road.
If stuck, the only action you may take is to try
to get it unstuck. Roll as above. A failure ends
the wagon’s turn. A success allows a single
move action.
To capture the wagon, the driver or soldier
leading the horses must first be wounded or
killed by Shooting or Close Combat. For the
purpose of this scenario, you cannot shoot
the horse pulling the wagon.
19
For added fun, the first time a weapon is
discharged within 6” of the horse, roll a d10. On
1-5 it’s fine, 6-10 it will spook. Roll the die
again, the number is the distance the wagon
travels, the “point” of the d10 is the direction it
goes.
Victory Conditions:
- The British get 20 VPs if they are able to get
the wagon off the far side of the table. They
MUST exit the table on the road.
- The British get 1VP for each wounded (at the
end of the scenario) American Militia, and
5VPs for each one Out of Action.
- The Militia get 1VP for each wounded (at the
end of the scenario) Redcoat, and 5VPs for
each one Out of Action.
- The Militia get 20 VPs if they capture and
hold the wagon
“The British will have to play
their cards very carefully in
order to keep the column
moving. They do not want to
create a bottle neck by having soldiers in the
back of the column moving first and running into
the ones up front. They could, however, just move
their troops off the road to engage the Rebels.
However, this could leave the wagon vulnerable.
Also, if the British hang around too long, they can
still lose by getting too many men killed. They
should try to exit the table as soon as the wagon
is safely away.
Again, this scenario is very customizable, both by
moving to another period, or by layering in other
rules. You could give the Americans the “Native”
rules, for example, letting them pop out, shoot
then fade into the woods to appear elsewhere.
You could rate some of the Militia as d8s or give
some Rifles, as seen in the next scenario.
If you think the scenario is too easy, try making
the road longer, or give the Rebels more troops...”
 Horse and Musket
Scenario 3: Ye Olde Defense of the Bridge
Napoleonics 3-5 players
Table size 4’ x 4’
French scouts are trying to find a suitable river
crossing to make a sweeping flank move.
Unfortunately for them, the only bridge is
guarded by a thin red line.
Set Up:
The French player(s) start anywhere along the
“southern” edge of the board with three units
of 5 miniatures. One miniature of the 15 must
be an officer or NCO and rated as a Leader (see
Leaders, pg 13). Their mission is to capture the
bridge and the road where it leaves the table
on the far side before night falls.
The British player(s) will start anywhere “north
of the river, (see River Special Rules, below).
The British forces should consist of 2 groups of
5 miniatures. One miniature of the 10 must be
an officer or NCO and rated as a Leader. In
addition, up to half can be armed as Riflemen,
see Rifle Special Rules (see below).
Their mission is the keep the bridge and road
secure before French reinforcements arrive en
masse.
Woods
Farmhouse
Trees
Bridge
Ford
Road
Woods
20
The River: The river should bisect the battle-
field and is treated as impassable terrain,
except using the bridge and at the ford. The
ford is only a few inches wide, still counts as
difficult terrain and will cost -1” to movement
per Action. Both sides should know about the
location of the ford, but it is not important for
victory.
Rifles: Rifles not only have a longer range than
muskets, but they require more time to reload.
After a model has spent both actions to reload,
roll a die:
On 1-5 it will take another full turn (2 actions)
to remove the RELOAD marker. On a 6-10, the
rifle is loaded. Any subsequent attempts after
do not require a roll.
Activating a Rifleman with a “6” card, or a Ace
used as a “6”, will in true cinematic fashion, still
automatically reload.
“Last turn Private Brown fired his
Rifle and starts this turn with a
RELOAD marker. He spends both
his actions to reload, then rolls a
die. He rolls a ”4”.
That rifle is being stubborn! Brown still has the
RELOAD marker. Next turn, that RELOAD marker
comes off in the normal fashion if he spends both
actions to do so. No roll required.
Brown is lucky and is activated using a “6” card,
which means the RELOAD is automatically
removed, and he is ready to fire using his first
Action.”
Time is Running Out: For this scenario, both
sides must finish quickly. To simulate this, put
both Jokers back into the deck. They’re played
just like the lowest suit Ace, but each time a
side uses it take note.
 Horse and Musket
Once the British play their sixth Joker, night
has fallen. If the French are not in control of the
bridge or the road at the board edge opposite
they do not get a victory. A British victory.
Once the French play their sixth Joker, the
French column arrives in too much force to be
held off. A French victory.
Victory Conditions:
- The French win a Major Victory if they hold
both the bridge and road where it exits the
board before night falls ( see Time is Running
Out, above). Holding means you have more
models on or near the objective than the
enemy.
- The French win a Minor Victory if they hold
one of the objectives before night falls, or the
they play their 6th Joker.
- Anything else is a British Victory.
This scenario is designed to keep the forces
moving and create a sense of urgency. The
defender must be careful about how they set
up. Too thin, they will be overwhelmed. Too
concentrated and they risk being outflanked.
Scenario 4: Capture the Gun
American Civil War 3- 6 players (6 ideal)
Table size 4’ x 4’
The Yankee guns are pounding the Rebs
good. It’s time to take one of those guns out!
Set Up:
The Union player(s) start with a cannon and 6
artillerymen on the hill. Artillerymen are
armed with Revolvers (see Special Rules,
below). Five regular infantrymen armed with
muskets start behind either or both of the
walls. One miniature of the 10 must be an
officer or NCO and rated as a Leader (see
Leaders, pg 13). Their mission is to drive the
Confederates away by destroying the attack-
ers.
21
The Confederates player(s) will start in either
wooded section.
The Confederates should outnumber the
Yankees by at least 2 -1 to stand a chance of
winning. Forces should consist of 4 groups of 5
miniatures. Two miniatures of the 20 must be
officers or NCOs and rated as a Leader. Their
mission is the capture the cannon.
There is quite a bit of open ground between
woods and hill, so it will be bloody.
Wall
Hill
Wall
Open Field or Farmland
Woods
Woods
Cannon: Civil War gun crews could number up
to 8 men, but for this scenario we going to
make that number 6. Each time the cannon
fires (see below), place 5 RELOAD markers
beside it. Any model within 1” of the gun can
remove 1 RELOAD marker per turn. Thus, each
crew member can use their 2 Actions a turn to
remove a RELOAD marker and have it ready to
fire again next turn. One model must use an
Action to fire the gun, and then the process
starts over. This could potentially mean the
Cannon fires every turn, and a well drilled gun
crew could historically fire very rapidly. Best to
kill those gun crew off!
 Horse and Musket
The cannon can elect to fire either ball or
cannister. If they fire ball, use a tape measure
to draw a straight path from the tip of the gun
straight out anywhere within a 45 degree arc
(template in back of rules). Any model the tape
passes through even partially may be hit by
the cannonball.
Starting with the closest model roll to hit :
0-24” hits on 5+
24+” hits on 8+
Cover modifiers apply.
If the cannon fires cannister, use the appropri-
ate template in the back of the rules. For any
model even partially under the template,
instead of rolling to hit each model, go directly
to the Wound chart. This means every model
under the template will automatically be
either Shaken, Wounded or Dead.
For purposes of this scenario the cannon
provides Partial Cover to anyone within 1” of
the gun.
Non-artillerymen may man the gun as long as
at least one of the original crew is alive and
neither pinned nor wounded.
Repeaters and Revolvers: By the time of the
Civil War, most officers and some enlisted men
carried revolvers. Just like in the original Fistful
of Lead, pistols of this period don’t need to
marked after every shot with a RELOAD
marker. Instead, only give models armed with
revolvers RELOAD markers if they roll a natural
“1” when shooting. Otherwise, they may fire
with every ACTION they have available. They
are assumed to reload when possible.
You may also arm some (I would say only a few
for balance) of your men with repeating rifles.
These would be the Sharpe’s carbines and
Henry Rifles of the war. They have the same
ranges of muskets, but do not suffer the
RELOAD after every shot.
22
Mounted: Some officers of the period elected
to ride around the battlefield. Anytime you use
mounted models it will require both mounted
and dismounted version of said model(s).
Besides giving the model increased move-
ment, being mounted confers upon the
model:
A +1 to Close Combat if they are the instiga-
tor. That is, if the model made contact this turn
to engage in Close Combat, they get a bonus.
If, however, they were the ones attacked, they
don not get the +1 bonus.
Combined with a sword or lance, a mounted
model can be very dangerous. Best keep those
infantrymen together if horses are around, to
give them the numbers in combat advantage.
It is also harder to shoot while mounted. A -1
modifier is applied to any mounted model.
Hitting a swift moving target is hard, too. Any
model shooting at a mounted model has a
-1 modifier to hit as well. Targetting the poor
horse would be unsporting!
A mounted model that becomes “Shaken”
should roll a d10. This is number the model
should fall back away from visible enemies.
They remain mounted. Otherwise, rules for
become unshaken are the same for all models
(see Wounding, page 7).
A mounted model that is Wounded, however,
is replaced with a dismounted version of the
model. Their horse has run off. Alternatively, if
you have riderless horses, feel free to “scatter”
the horse d10 inches away from the rider. If he
is able to stand up on an Activation, he may
move to the horse and remount by using an
Action.
 Horse and Musket
Victory Conditions:
- The Union side wins a Major Victory if theyput
Out of Action or Wound half or more of the
Confederate models. Once this happens the
game is over.
- The Confederate side must capture the
cannon by driving off the Union troops for a
Victory.
Obviously, this scenario can be easily adapted
to other periods. You could also layer in the
“Time is Running Out” Special rule from the
previous scenario, too.
Scenario 5: the Last Stand
The Maximilian Adventure 3-6 players (6 ideal)
Table size 4’ x 4’
From 1864 to 1867, Mexico was ruled by a
puppet government of the French Empire run
by Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian. As such, it
is sometimes a referred to as the Maximilian
Adventure. It is often over looked by warga-
mers but is a fun period to delve into. The
period is full of colorful troops and unit types.
There are Belgian Jaegers, Mexican Lancers,
machete wielding Indians, Egyptian infantry,
and of course, the French Foreign Legion to
name a few.
For this scenario, as usual, the Legion is out
gunned and outnumbered. How long can they
hold out?
Walled
Barracks
23
Setup
The battlefield should have a walled or
fortified compound or barracks in the center,
with at least two gates or entrances. This
would be a great chance to use the Breaking
Down Doors rules, page 11. The walls should be
taller than model height.
The rest of the board should feature a mix of
small buildings and cover around the edges.
The defenders should have some open terrain
around their fort to pick off the attackers.
The Legion player (defender) should have 2
units of 5 models. One of these units should
have a Leader.
The attackers, the Republican Mexican
player(s), should outnumber the defenders by
2 to 1. It works best to make units of 5. One unit
should contain a Leader, and one unit can be
all peasants armed only with farm implements
and machetes. They should be rated as Green
Militia (see page 14).
No Surrender- The situation looks hopeless,
but for the defenders it is better to die with
honor. All rolls made to recover from Shaken or
Wound, are done so with a +1 modifier. In
addition, if natural “1” is rolled, the model does
not automatically die of their Wounds or “Live
to Fight Another Day”.
Limited Ammunition- On top of being
surrounded, the garrison is sorely lacking in
ammunition. To simulate this, Anytime the
defenders roll a natural “1” when shooting, roll
the die again. If the roll comes up odd, then
that model is out of ammunition for the
remainder of the game. Mark them with an
“Out of Ammo” marker found at the back of this
book. It’s down to cold steel now.
 Horse and Musket
Optionally, you may add another layer to this
rule. A model marked Out of Ammo may replen-
ish his supply if he can move adjacent to a dead
defender and spend one Acton to take the
ammunition from his fallen comrade. They are
no longer Out of Ammo.
Ladders- The attackers are equipped with two
ladders per unit of 5. A single model can carry
one ladder, but is unable to shoot while carry-
ing the ladder. Additionally, if they are
attacked in Close Combat while carrying the
ladder, they suffer a -1 to their die rolls while
fighting.
Models carrying a ladder move at 4“ per action
instead of the normal 5” while encumbered by
the ladder.
Once a model moves within 1” of a wall, they
may place the ladder by expending an Action.
To climb, simply Move, measuring the vertical
distance to the top.
The placement of the ladder may be contested
by a defender. If a defending model can reach
the ladder they treat it like a Close Combat
fight. Both sides roll a d10. The defender gets
to add a +1 to his roll. The high roll wins. If the
attacker wins, the ladder stays in place. This
may lead to another Close Combat at the top
of the ladder. If the defender wins, the ladder is
pushed away. A model on the ladder at the
time must suffer a fall. Roll d10 +1 for every 3”
fallen on the WOUND CHART.
If you don’t have a ladder, a paper counter
ladder is provided at the back of the book.
Victory Conditions
- The Legion won’t surrender. In order for the
Mexicans to gain a Victory, they must kill every
Legion model.
- If at any time, the Mexican Dead or Wounded
equal or exceed half their starting force, they
will quit the field, giving the Legion victory.
24
As with the others, this scenario could easily
take place in another period. It could be a
wooden redoubt in the North American
wilderness attacked by Indians. It could be a
small section of a larger fortress during the
Seven Years War. It’s really up to you.
Fistful of Lead: Horse & Musket was written with
28mm scale miniatures in mind, but that
doesn’t mean you can’t use other scales.
15mm is a great scale for skirmish. You can
field forces for little money or time invested. To
play, you can use the scales as is. If you feel this
looks strange I would halve all ranges round-
ing up, or convert all ranges from inches to
centimeters.
For 54mm, true toy soldier scale, I would just
play as is.
If you have multiple miniatures based on a
stand, you can easily play FfoL: H&M as is.
Simply treat each stand as you would a single
model.
Think of it as a small skirmish group. Each
“Wound” is actually a fallen soldier. An “Out of
Action” is the elimination of the group.
This allows you to play large looking skirmish-
es like the storming of a fort or a pre-battle
firefight by scouting forces, without changing
the rules.
 Horse and Musket

For ease of reference all the special rules are listed here in one place.

Ambush- A player can start hidden. Rather than rely on a hand drawn map and secret placement,
simulate the ambush by doing the following:
Keep the ambushing models off the table for now. Deal the Ambushing player cards as usual. When
a card comes up for activation, the Ambushing player has the option of passing, and keeping his
model off the table for now, or placing it on the battlefield. When placing the model, it must start in
cover, and more than 12” from any enemy miniature. Once placed, that model stays on the table and
is “in the game”. Appearing on the table costs one action so they will only have one action their first
turn. If they use that action to Shoot, they may do so at a +1 this turn only, to represent surprise.
However, modelss that have passed must wait until the next turn. At that time, they may pass again
or place on the battlefield.

Cannon: Each time the cannon fires (see below), place 5 RELOAD markers beside it. Any model
within 1” of the gun can remove 1 RELOAD marker per turn. Thus, each crew member can use their
2 Actions a turn to remove a RELOAD marker and have it ready to fire again next turn. One model
must use an Action to fire the gun, and then the process starts over. This could potentially mean the
Cannon fires every turn, and a well drilled gun crew could historically fire very rapidly. Best to kill
those gun crew off!
The cannon can elect to fire either ball or cannister. If they fire ball, use a tape measure to draw a
straight path from the tip of the gun straight out anywhere within a 45 degree arc (template in back
of rules). Any model the tape passes through even partially may be hit by the cannonball.
Starting with the closest model roll to hit :
0-24” hits on 5+
24+” hits on 8+
Cover modifiers apply.
If the cannon fires cannister, use the appropriate template in the back of the rules. For any model
even partially under the template, instead of rolling to hit each model, go directly to the Wound
chart. This means every model under the template will automatically be either Shaken, Wounded or
Dead.
The cannon provides Partial Cover to anyone within 1” of the gun.
Non-artillerymen may man the gun as long as at least one of the original crew is alive and neither
pinned nor wounded.

Capturing- Instead killing an opponent in Close Combat, you may capture instead. A player must
declare they are trying to capture and a Close Combat is fought as usual, although the attacker is
not allowed to fire their weapon. The loser is captured instead of Shaken, Wounded, or Killed. If the
defender wins the combat, the player trying to capture still suffers the ill effects of combat (Shaken,
Wound, Death).
If captured, the figure is now under control of the player who captured them. The figure does not
receive a card. The hostage taker moves the hostage when they Activate.
This hostage must stay in base to base contact with his/her captor. They may only be released when
their captor is Wounded or Killed. Shaken won’t do it.
If the Captor and his hostage are shot at, the hostage may be hit (see Shooting, page 7). If the hostage
is freed, they will be dealt a card as usual next turn.
One model can only have one captive at a time.

25
 Horse and Musket

Natives- Some Natives weren’t particularly found of fighting out in the open. They preferred
ambush and what we would call today, guerrilla tactics. When in the woods, any roll to recover from
Shaken or Wound, gets a +1. Any roll to recover from a Shaken or Wound in open terrain or building,
is at a -1 to the roll.
Natives have no movement penalty in the woods.
In addition, if a Native leaves a wooded table edge, they may re-enter any other wooded table edge
after missing one turn (don’t deal a card for them). This simulates their knowledge of the local envi-
ronment. They know every short cut and deer track.

No Surrender- The situation looks hopeless, but for some troops it is better to die with honor. All
rolls made to recover from Shaken or Wound, are done so with a +1 modifier. In addition, if natural
“1” is rolled, the model does not automatically die of their Wounds or “Skedaddle”.

Repeaters and Revolvers: By the time of the Civil War, most officers and some enlisted men carried
revolvers. Just like in the original Fistful of Lead, pistols of this period don’t need to marked after
every shot with a RELOAD marker. Instead, only give models armed with revolvers RELOAD markers
if they roll a natural “1” when shooting. Otherwise, they may fire with every ACTION they have avail-
able. They are assumed to reload when possible.
You may also arm some (I would say only a few for balance) of your men with repeating rifles. These
would be the Sharpe’s carbines and Henry Rifles of the later Horse & Musket period. They have the
same ranges of muskets, but do not suffer the RELOAD after every shot.

Rifles: Rifles not only have a longer range than muskets, but they require more time to reload. After
a model has spent both actions to reload, roll a die:
On 1-5 it will take another full turn (2 actions) to remove the RELOAD marker. On a 6-10, the rifle is
loaded. Any subsequent attempts after do not require a roll.
Activating a Rifleman with a “6” card, or a Ace used as a “6”, will in true cinematic fashion, still auto-
matically reload.

The River: If a river should bisect the battlefield and is treated as impassable terrain, except using
the bridges and fords. The ford is only a few inches wide, still counts as difficult terrain and will cost
-1” to movement per Action. You can decide if both sides should know about the location of the
ford.

Settlers/Civilians- Farmers and settlers are not soldiers. To simulate this lack of combat training,
they use an eight sided die (d8) for any combat they do. They also use a d8 for the “to Wound” chart.
This means the worst they can do to an unwounded foe is wound them.

Time is Running Out: For some scenarios, both sides must finish quickly. To simulate this, put both
Jokers back into the deck. They’re played just like the lowest suit Ace, but each time a side uses it
take note.
Once one side plays their sixth Joker, night has fallen, reinforcements arrive, or whatever fits your
scenario.

26
 Horse and Musket

The Wagon- If you’re lucky enough to have a wagon with a driver figure, the player controlling the
wagon will be dealt an extra card. This is used to move the wagon. If you don’t have a driver, assign
one of the miniatures from a unit to lead the horses. In this case, no extra card is dealt.
When activated, the wagon moves at the normal walk speed of a man (5”) per move action if on the
road. If the wagon begins a turn not on the road, roll a d10.
1-4: The wagon is stuck.
5-10: No effect
You must make this roll any time the wagon begins a move not on the road.
If stuck, the only action you may take is to try to get it unstuck. Roll as above. A failure ends the wag-
on’s turn. A success allows a single move action.
To capture the wagon, the driver or soldier leading the horses must first be wounded or killed by
Shooting or Close Combat. For the purpose of most scenarios, you cannot shoot the horse pulling
the wagon.
For added fun, the first time a weapon is discharged within 6” of the horse, roll a d10. On 1-5 it’s fine,
6-10 it will spook. Roll the die again, the number is the distance the wagon travels, the “point” of the
d10 is the direction it goes.

Frequently Asked Questions Game Philosophy

“No Hold Card?” or “No Overwatch?”
- This question comes up time to time. Over
the years we have playtested letting models
give up an action to hold their second action,
and thus interrupt another model’s action
later.
I wanted a game where every player was
involved during a turn. Rather than the tradi-
tional “rolling for initiative” followed by “I
go-you go”, I chose a card driven turn system
which seemed very appropriate for the Old
West, and as it turns out, other periods.

What always ended up happening was a lot of
standing around waiting. The game is about
wild skirmishes and whirling action, not
standing around in cover waiting. I think
you’ll find it more fun the way it is.
“My model has a pistol and a musket. I just fired
my musket and need to reload. Can I use my
second action to pull my pistol and shoot?”
- Sure, as long as everyone knows before the
game starts that model uses multiple weap-
ons. You’ll still have to get rid of that “Reload”
marker for your musket sometime. Now you’ll
have to spend two complete turns to reload
both.
I left the actual mechanics of Shooting and
Close Combat very simple, so players new to
wargaming and old veterans alike could pick
it up easily. But the game is by no means easy
in tactics. Decisions change constantly based
on what cards you have, or don’t have, and
what each opponent does.
What is left then, I hope, is a game with a nod
to those heroic actions on the fringe of larger
battles, and is, at its core, really fun.
That’s it! Keep a look out for more Fistful of
Lead expansions and rules. Until then, have
fun and keep the lead flying!

Jaye
a.k.a. Baron Von J

27
 Horse and Musket

Cannister

La
dd
er

© 2016 Jaye Wiley. All Rights reserved. The Quick

Reference Sheet, counter sheets & templates may be
reproduced for personal use. No other portions of
this booklet may be reproduced in any form without
the prior written consent of the author.

28
© 2016 Jaye Wiley. All Rights reserved. The Quick Reference Sheet, counter sheets & templates may be reproduced for
personal use. No other portions of this booklet may be reproduced in any form without the prior written consent
of the author.
 CARD SUIT TURN Special Cards
SEQUENCING QUEEN OF HEARTS: Remove one Wound marker
QUEEN OF SPADES: Recover from Shaken
Movement 1 EYED JACKS: +1 to roll when Shooting
OTHER JACKS : +1 to roll when in Close Combat
Foot: Creep 3” Walk 5” SEVENS: Reroll one die roll this turn
Mounted: Horse 8” Wagon 6” SIXES: Reload automatically
MODIFIERS TO MOVEMENT: DEUCES: Roll 2 dice for Shooting or Close Combat
WOUNDS: -1” of movement per wound, per action moving. and choose better of two.
DIFFICULT TERRAIN: Half rate. ACES: Wild. May act as any card.
OBSTACLES: -1” for low walls and fences, full action for high walls
UP / DOWN FLOOR -3” Wounding: Maximum 3 Wounds
Each time a figure is hit by either gunfire, or Close Combat, roll on
Shooting: Short Range: 5+ Long Range: 8+ the following chart:
Ranges are: Short Long Modifiers: ROLL 1-5: Figure is SHAKEN
Pistol 6” 12” COVER: Light Cover -1 6-8: Figure is WOUNDED
Rifle* 16” 32” Heavy Cover -2 9-10: Figure is DEAD
Musket WOUNDS: -1 for each wound shooter has NOTE: Add +1 to the die roll for each wound already sustained by the affected
12” 24”
MOVEMENT: Shooter mounted model.
Blunderbuss** 6” 12” Target mounted -1
Throwing Ax/Knife 3“ 6“
Bow*** 9” 18”
Target prone -1 Recovery from SHAKEN or Wounded
ACTIONS: +1 Shooter used first action
to Aim Roll Shaken Wounded
1: Model routes from the game Model out of Action
* Rifles took a long time to load. After a model has spent both actions to reload,
2-5: Model remains Shaken Model still Wounded
roll a die. On 1-5 it will take another full turn (2 actions) to remove the RELOAD
marker. On a 6-10, the rifle is loaded. The second attempt is always successful. and prone
**Blunderbuss inflict a +2 modifier to the Wound roll at Short range, and -1 at Long. 6-10: Model is no longer Shaken Model may stand up
***When shooting a bow and an unmodified “1” is rolled, roll again. If a 1-5 is then NOTE: model that manages to become unshaken or stand from being Wounded
rolled, the figure is permanently Out of Ammo. Also, bows do not require RELOAD may perform 1 action. You add+1 if an Leader is within 12”. Subtract -1 for each
markers. They may shoot every action. wound already sustained by the affected model.
Close Combat
The two opponents both roll d10. Both models add any modifiers to the die roll. The highest modified die is the winner and subtracts the loser’s die roll from
his. The difference in the two rolls give the following results:
1-2: The winner also has the option of switching positions with the loser, or push back the loser 2”, or keep them locked in Close Combat. The loser is Shaken.
3-4: The winner knocks the loser down, Wounded.
5 or more: Loser is dead.
Modifiers:
Wounds: -1 for each Wound the figure has Mounted: +1 if mounted (if defeated model is wounded, he is dragged from horse) Prone: -1
Outnumbered: -1 per attacker after first ( i.e. -1 for facing 2 attackers, -2 for 3 attackers etc.) Better Weapon: +1 Shaken: -1 Defending a wall/defensive terrain: +1