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CPFAFFD® 90 .1
INSTRUCTIONS
FOREWORD
G. M. PFAFF AG
Karlsruhe-Durloch Branch
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GR 022
2
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GR 050
ii
c6 /t’tathine Qji2atic
9un?amentats
you
wheel, turn it toward
e to turn the balance
• Whenever you hav
shown by black arrow).
(counter-clockwise as
htened
balance wheel is tig
motion knob on the
• Make sure stop
ing.
before you begin sew
the
have fabric under
ed machine unless you
• Never run a thread
sewing foat.
put
ing foot before you v--.,
s back under the sew I
• Place both thread
e.
fabric into the machin
auto
er the sewing foot
feed the material und
• The machine will the wor k.
e to do is guide
matically. All you hav
in .
ition before you beg
ays bring take -up lever to its highest pos
• Alw
pleted a seam.
and after you have com
the
thread to slip out of
rule may cause the
Failure to observe this the wor k wit h the take-up
is easier to remove
needle eye. Also, it
lever up.
GRO51
3
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R 8218A
Cj,ratitn t’t
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Mecanismo pam despegue del motor
En su mOquina, a Ia derecha, par debajo del volante de maniobro, se encuentro una
palanca, que debe de girarse hacia abojo, sobre to marco de punto. En tot formo, viene
a colocarse el motor en posiciOn de servtcio.
En casos de no usor to mâquina por tiempos proiongodos, conviene despegar et motor ,,
otra vez y ponerto en posiciôn de reposo. En tal posiceón puede coserse a pedal tambien
con Jo máquino elêctnca, sn que ci motor tenga que giror unto.
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Dispositivo per to messa fuori d’azione del motore
Nello Vostra macchina ê applicato a destro sotto ii volonte o mono uno levo che,
prima di iniziore Ia cucituro, si giro ali’ingiü verso ii segno a punto. II motore s colloco
cosi in posizione di Jovoro.
Volendo interrompere ii avoro di cucito per molto tempo, si riolzo In levo disposto o destra -
sotto ii volantino. ii motore si trovero olloro in postzone di riposo, ed ovendo uno mocchinc
corredato di elettromotore si puô cucire onche con comondo a pedole senza moimento
concornitante del motore.
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Frlkpbling af motor
Poc Deres moskine er til ha ire under haandhjuiet onbrogt et greb.
Far De begynder at sy, drejes dette greb nedad til punktmrket, og motoren vii do vre
arbejdsstilling.
Ved lngere afbrydelse of Deres syarbejde trkker De grebet fremod, saa det stoar
ondret, og motoren vii do vre kobiet fri, hvilket bevirker, at De nu kan benytte en med
rtiotor udrustet maskine som trdemaskiae, uden at motoren laber med.
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Moeorabhebevorrkhtung
dem Handrod em Heb: angeb racht, den Sie vor dem
An Hirer Maschine ist rechis unter drehe n. Dodu rch befind et sich der Motor in Arbeits
Ndhen nach unten zii der Punki marke
stellung. r on. Der Motor
Nâharbeit heben Sie den Hebel wiede
Bei langerer Unterbrechung lhrerng. fri dieser Loge können Sie bei einer mit Elektromotor
befindet sich’dann in Ruhestellu Fuf3antrieb ndhen, ohne den Motor
mitzubewegen.
ousgerOsteten Moschine ouch mit
Motorvrijstelappaw t
stelknopje, dot U, olvorens met
Aan Uw mochine zich rechts onder het handwiel een
in richti ng der marke ringsp unt moet draaien
naaien te begi nne,
naar boven, zodat de
arbeid drukt U bet knopje weerving racier zonder dot
Bij langere anderbreking der naai stellin g kurt U ook door voeta andrij
motor in vrijstellirig is. In deze
de motor meeloopt.
r
Dispositif de dótachement du moteu
gui est a tourner
, de yotre machine ii y a un levier
Au-dessous du volant de tête,dea repêre avant de commencer a coudre. Par cette mani
droite
vers le bas jusquau point
position de travail
pulation le moteur se trouve en re reportez le levier a so
ongee de votre travail de coutu on
Lors de l’interruption assez prol trouv e moint enant en position de repos et en cette positi
position initiole. Le moteu r se
e aussi avec entraineme nt a pied sans agiter le moteur.
vous pouvez coudr
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‘cw t’iO?
Push plug 1 into wall outlet and plug
2 into receptacle 3 on foot L
control.
14?
Foot Drive
t driving belt. To switch on
Push sewlight plug into wall outlet. Moun
Before you drop the machine
sewlight, push button on face cover.
whee l, pulling it to the right.
remove the belt from the stand
4 Foot Control
Place the foot control under the cabin
foot. Rest the right foot on the contro l
et within easy reach of your
pedal and press. The harder
run.
you press, the faster the machine will
R 7132 5
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GR 018
g set:
4 For straight-stitch sewin
Dial A — 0
Lever B — Center
6 GROO9A
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GR 052
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Lever B changes the position of the needle in the needle plate slot.
Thus the stitching can be moved from the center to the left or right
of the slot, as desired.
VTI
more closely together (sa
tin stitch).
7
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GR 014
Lift latch k with the thumb of your left hand and pull out bobbin case
with bobbin. When you release the latch, the bobbin drops out.
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GROI3 8
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Disengage the sewing mechanism (see page 4) and flick
presser bar lifter to highest position. Raise the spool pins to
the vertical position. Place spool of thread on one of the
spooi pins and set bobbin on bobbin winder spindle so that
the key at base of spindle enters slot in bobbin.
Pull the thread under the tension spring until it emerges from the opening at the end of the spring.
about three inches of thread hanging from the bobbin case.
-
Leave
f
0 Hold the case by its open latch so that the bobbin cannot fall out.
hi) ;‘
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11
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Mercerized Needle
Types of Fabrics Silk
Cotton Size
usie /1 3
an ‘7ha?
Fine Fabrics 80
to
0
I
such as georgette, chiffon,
botiste, voile, lawn, silk.
to
100
000
twi
.
St
or
70
1=.
The appearance of the finished seam is dependent
on the correct relationship between needle, thread
Lightweight Fabrics
such as dress silks arid
cottons, sheer woolens,
70
to
A & 3
tWist
80 and fabric. Select the proper thread sizes and r
80 needles from this chart.
shirting, draperies.
12 I
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On Pfaff 90 sewing machines, System 130 R, flotshank needles are
usd for oil ordinary sewing ond embroidery work. The last column
in the chart on page 12 gives you the needle size required for the ii
material in hand. Genuine Pfaff needles, System 130 R, are available
from every Pfaff dealer. Bent or blunt needles should not be used.
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Bring needle bar to its highest point and lower sewing foot.
loosen needle set screw a half a turn and pull aid needle out of
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needle clamp. Make sure that the flat side of the shank faces toward
the back and long groove toward you. Insert new needle into opening
of needle clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Tighten needle set
screw a.
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Ci,e ‘Zeniu,n 9
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Balanced tensions ore essential for sewing. If
your tension is correct,
you will have perfect seams as sketched below (Ill).
Sketch I —The threads interlock on the underside of the
fabric.
Cause:
Upper tension too loose or lower tension too
tight.
Sketch II — The threads interlock on the surface of the
fabric.
Cause:
Upoer tension too tight or lower tnsion too loose.
OR 046
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A
Hold needle thread lightly in your left
hand. Turn balance wheel toward you
until the needle moves once down and
III
w
up again. Lightly pull needle thread
to draw bobbin thread up through the
needle hole. Place both threads back
under the sewing foot.
16
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The bobbin thread tension has been set for a medium grade and need
not be adjusted for all ordinary sewing operations. If a special sewing
operation should require a looser or tighter tension, turn the small
knurled screw on the bobbin case with the tip of your thumb as fol
lov,s:
Turn it left --E — for looser tension.
Turn it right — for tighter tension,
Determine whether the bobbin thread tension is set for 0 medium
grade by holding the thread end between thumb and forefinger and
letting the bobbin case hang freely. The tension should be strong
enough to keep the bobbin case from being pulled down by its own
weight. However, as you jerk your hand slightly, the bobbin case
should gradually slide down. Do not turn the knurled screw too far
to the left to keep it from falling out. Choose the lower tension
slightly stronger when doing ornamental stitching to be sure you
always have o neod satin stitch on the right side of thefobric. GIl 012
A
The final stitch appearance can be reguloted by
the upper tension knob, as follows:
Turn left —(C — for looser tension.
Turn right )?*m4 — for tighter tension.
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The stitch length control sees to regulate the stitch length
and to
limit it in sewing backwards.
18
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ChanfJmn7 th
Lift both needle and presser bar to their highest positio and
ns turn
sewing foot thumb screw b to the left. Tilt the foot sideway and pull
s
it down
——
GR 043 19
1
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eraIn, /tt,tl 1
4 1ahine A
Remove the sewing foot and the bed slide. Lift front end of needle
plate and tilt out.
Turn needle plate half a turn so that raised portion is at the front
(see illustration) and replace. Press down stud and replace bed slide.
Thread the needle with doming wool and flick presser bar lifter to
position I (see page 21).
20 GR007
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Remove the sewing foot. Attoch darning foot No. 847 610 from the
rear. Hold spring cli.p c so that ii is behind the needle set screw, and
tighten screw b.
If your sewing machine has a presser bar lifter with only position II,
use darning foot No. 93-100154-91.
c c WC7CJitiC1 Zes5 a
7 4i(
II When the presser bar lifter is flicked to position I, the presser bar is
raised but the needle thread tension is still activated (important for
embroidering and darning).
When set at position II, the presser bar lifter disengages the needle
thread tension (which facilitates winding the bobbin and removing the
work from the machine).
Some machines have a presser bar lifter with only position II.
I CR W6 21
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Cate 4I1 a1
4
intena,ice
Longevity and smooth machine
performance are dependent on regula
cleaning and oiling. r and proper
I
If you hove a portable machine,
tilt it back, loosen the large thumb
underside of the machine base, and screw on the
remove the base.
In replacing the machine base,
make sure that the cable sheath is
appropriate hole in the base. Light locoted in the GR C53.
ly tighten thumb screw
L
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9 I From time to time, lubricate the
A
needle bar
frame bearings in the sewing heod.
Removing.the face cover see
page 24.
The principal oiling points are
marked by
arrows in the illustrations on these
pages.
I
R 8223
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There are two openings
stitch width dial, one
other at the back
openings ore the oil
mechanism.
.co in the rim of the
on the left and the
(see arrows). These
holes of the zigzag
es
Do not lubricate the bob
bin winder.
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23
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GR 024
Ckanjij th bifjht 6
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To change the light bulb or oil the
parts at the needle-bar end, remove
the face cover by pulling it upwards.
GR 029 24
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25
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3. Needle Breaks
Cause: Remedy:
Bent needle strikes point of sewing hook. Replace needle at once to prevent further damage.
Needle too thin or thread too heavy. Use correct needle and thread sizes.
Fabric pulls needle so it bends and Don’t force the feeding motion. Guide the material lightly.
strikes needle plate.
Bobbin case inserted incorrectly. Push bobbin case until you hear it snap into place.
Thread too heavy, knotty or hard. Use only first-rate thread — the correct size for the needle and
fabric.
Bobbin unevenly wound. Dont run thread over finger when winding the bobbin, but lead
it around needle thread tension.
Pieces of thread between tension discs. Raise presser bar lifter and remove thread.
Cause: Remedy:
Machine does nat feed because stitch Regulate stitch length, as desired.
length control set on “0”.
Accumulations of lint pocked between Take off needle plate and remove lint with a stiff brush.
feed teeth.
26
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Cause:
Remedy:
Hocyk raceway lacks oil or is obstructed
by Clean and oil hook raceway.
pieces of thread.
Thread Jamming
27
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I’LcinfJ $ewinfy et 1?11 ta€h$ft?IltS (setting see page 6)
Zipper Insertion Edge Stitching
Machine Setting: A—0 B—i. 8476OO
Machine Setting: A- 0 to 4.B-.i
Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong
Sew parallel rows of straight or
side of fabric. Position of zipper de-
zigzag stitches at various distan
pends on whether or not you want the
ces from the fabric edge by using
edge of the fabric to overlap the zip
adjustable seam guide No. 53077
per. Turn fabric to right side. Run a
and the edge stitcher {without
es
straight seam close to left edge of quilting gauge). The seam guide
zipper, stitch across end and up the
is fastened to the machine bed
other side in one continuous operation.
with the long thumb screw. For
Use right edge of foot as a guide.
widermarginal stitching, turn edge
guide half a turn and use low GR 032
V end as a guide.
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Quilting
Machine Setting: A—0 8—4.
Edge stitcher No. 847 600 used
with the quilting gauge sews pa
rallel rows of stitching at any
distance over the entire surface
of the fabric. Always guide the
gauge finger along the preceding
row of stitches.
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GRCO2 28 GR OCE
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847 56
First Seam
the bottom piece pro
Lay pieces together with the wrong sides facing and
that the
truding inch. Feed both pieces into felling foot, as illustrated, so
bottom fabric is folded over
edge of top piece and stitched
GR 048
down. Make sure that protruding
seam allowance is not folded
twice.
Second Seam
insert seam
Open the two pieces, place them under the needle right side up,
Make sure that
ridge into felling foot opening, and stitch down to the left.
it.
second seam is placed close to the edge but nat beyond
The felling foot has a needle slot, rather than a needle hale, to permit zigzag
felling.
29 GR049
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847 551
Hemming
II
Machine Setting: A—O or 2 to 3
The hemmer foot is indispensabte if you
wont to sew a uniform hem.
You can hem with straight or zigzag
stitches, depending on the type
of fabric you are using. Clip off the corne
r of the fabric to facilitate
insertion into the hemmer foot curl. Feed
fabric so that the raw edge
is in line with the left edge of the hemm
er foot. If you feed less, the
fabric will not be folded twice and
the raw edge will show.
GR 004
GROO5 30
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838 954
Overcasting Edges
4 Overcasting prevents froyed edqes. Use a long wide zigzag stitch and sew
edge with the needle taking one stitch into the fabric and the other over
its edge (normal tension setting). You may overcast edges after fabric is
cut and before the pieces are joined.
GR 037
Butt Seaming
838 954
r
Machine Setting: A 3 or 4 B
-— —
.
Two similar pieces of fabric which do not ravel easily may be butted to
gether and joined with zigzag stitches. Worn bed sheets may be mended
this way. Cut out worn center strip. Place the selvaged edges of the remai
ning pieces of sheet under the sewing foot so that the abutted edges ore
centered under the needle. Join them with close, wide zigzag stitches to
obtain a neat and flat seam. Hem raw edges of sheet.
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31 GR 045
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R 7157
U Inserting Patches
Machine Setting; A—4
For additional strength stitch over corners twice. Turn over and trim
close to seams.
I
838 954
Attaching Lace
“
Machine Setting: A—2 B— .
You can attach lace edging in one simple operation. Fold the edge
of the fabric about over to the wrong side, following the texture,
and preferably iron it down. Place the straight edge of the lace on
the
I
fold of the fabric and sew it down with narrow zigzag stitches, taking
one stitch into lace and fabric and the other into lace only. Cut
off
.4 excessive cloth on the wrong side of the material close to the seam.
I
I GR 044 32
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GR 033
u 838 954
Machine Setting
Applique Work
A__11J to 2
Applique is easy and modern.
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. 8—4.
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R 7167 33 R7220
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838 954
Straight-Stitch Hemstitching
Machine Setting: A—C
Stitch Length: 2—4
.4 Insert twin hemstitching needle, System 130 Zwi-Ho, as instructed on
page 13, Turn out needle set screw a little further than for ordinary
needles.
The thread size, threading procedure and thread tension are the same
as for cording work (see page 4!).
Beautiful hemstitching effects on blouses, dresses, handkerchiefs,
doilies and so forth, can be obtained with Pfaff’s System 130 twin
needle. The harder the fabric yarn, the more pronounced the hem-
stitching will be, For this reason, batiste, organdy, georgette, etc. are
best suited to hemstitching, while woolly fabrics are not recommended.
GR 001
Procedure
Fold fabric to mark seamline or trace seamline on fabric. Sew first
row. Guide fabric so that wing needle stitches along traced line. At
the end of the seam, turn fabric half a turn and sew second row.
Guide fabric in such a way that wing needle penetrates the needl
holes it has made and enlarged previously.
Imitation hemstitching thus requires at least two operations. If desired,
additional straight or curved ornamental seams may be stitched
parallel to the first one. Exciting decorative effects may be obtained
by using van-colored embroidery and darning threads.
Zigzag Hemstitching
.4 Machine Setting: A— Up to 11/s B . ,
Procedure
Same as above, except that the wing needle should penetrate the
traced line only when it is on the left of its throw.
R 8427 34
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847 608
GR 036
Button Sewing
35
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GR 034
Attach buttonhole foot No. 847 616 and set sLide on buttonhole gouge.
to buttonhole length desired. The buttonhole is the right length when
beginning of first seam reaches red end of slide indicator (see arrow).
When you follow the procedure on the opposite page, the bartacks
at each end of your buttonhole will be twice as wide as a buttorhole
seam.
Sewing Buttonholes
Machine Setting: A — 11/2 (2) (first notch)
. B
—
GR035 36
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2
InstructionsforButtonholing
5)
(/)
0
D pun
3 Turn dial A until it is caught in second notch (or
5)
D
0 0
stops at 4). Make 4 to 6 bartack stitches, slightly
holding the material to reduce length of bar.
7 Trim both the sewing and filler threads. Open the buttonhole
with your seam ripper. Be careful not to injure the bortacks.
31
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GR £11
GR 056
Darning GR 057
20 and 21. Note that far darning the presser bar lifter should
be set at position I. Place fabric into darning hoop, the damage
d area being in the center of the hoop.
Thin Spots TriongularTears Small Holes
Remember thot “a stitch in time saves Triangular tears ore best darned by
nine” and reinforce spots that have Darn small and medium-size holes
placing the torn section between by trimming ragged edges with the
worn thin with short stitches made hoops and making close stitches
lengthwise and across worn section. fabric grain. First stitch back and
across and lengthwise. Move work forth across the hole from one side
If fabric is clamped into darning under the needle with both hands.
hoops, move it under the needle to the other with the machine run-
with both hands. fling at high speed. Then turn the
Long rips may be darned with the fabric at right angles and sew back
normal sewing foot and without and forth over preceding work with
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hoops. Set needle plate in its normal, short stitches. Make sure the stitches
or sewing, position and use forward- are taken right into the good mate
reverse feed control. rial.
38
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Machine Setting: A —3 to 4 B —.
4 Prepare machine as far darning. Script letters are best for monogram
embroidery without a sewing foot. It requires a little practice. You
will soon enjoy creative embroidery once you have learned to move
the material at a uniform rate. The fabric should be held taut in the
hoops and the presser bar lifter lowered to position I. Let the needle
stitch into the fabric at the beginning of your design and draw bobbin
thread up through the fabric. Hold both thread ends and sew over
outline, moving hoops slowly and evenly. To give your monogram
dimensional quality, embroider outline twice. Be sure stitches ore
closely spaced.
954
Sewing Monograms
j
838 Machine Setting: A—2 1/2 to 3 3—4
The procedure below is primarily used for block letters. Set needle
plate so that feed dog feeds the material. Attach zigzag sewing foot
No. 838 954 and set machine for satin stitch. Sew outlines of mono
gram, making sure that seams do not overlap at joints of letters.
39 GR 031
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Cording
To cord on your Pfaff 90, use a cording foot and o twin needle. -
Cording feet and twin needles, System 130, are supplied on special request and at extra cost.
Bring take-up lever to highest point, loosen needle set screw a, and
pull ordinary needle out of needle clamp. Insert twin needle into
opening of needle clamp and push it, up as far as it will go. Make
sure that the flat side of the shank faces toward the back. Tighten
needle set screw a securely.
GR 020 40
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Thread Tension
Slightly increase the bobbin thread
the needle thread tension dependingtension, and increase or decrease
tension has been set correctly, the on the type of fabric used. If the
faint zigzag line on the other side. bobbin thread should appear as a
Filled Cording
If you wont to make cording in filmy
more prominent, Pfaff recommends fabrics or render your carding
thickness depends on the cording sizethat you insert a filler cord. Its
you want.
Remove the bed slide and pass the
filler cord from below through
hole g located in front of the oval needl
Lay the end of the filler cord bock e hole f (see ill, an page 40).
with the needle and bobbin thread under the cording foot (together
ends)
under the bed slide and place the ball . Pull a filler cord forward
in your lap.
41 GR 019
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GR 059
.co
_838 954
Ornamental Sewing
43 R 5414
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29
Contents
Page Page
Foreword Care and Maintenance
Essential Parts 2 22
Cleaning and Oiling
Fundamentals of Machine Operation 3 Removing and Replacing the Face Cover 24
Operation of Your Sewing Machine Changing the Light Bulb 24
Bedplate Extension 4 Trouble Shooting -. 25
Power and Foot Drive 5
Using Sewing Feet and Attachments
Straight Stitching 6
Zipper Insertion 28
Zigzag Sewing 7
Edge Stitching 28
Removing the Bobbin Case .8
Quilting 28
Winding the Bobbin .9
Flat Felled Seams
Inserting a Full Bobbin into Bobbin Case 10
Hemming 30
Inserting the Bobbin Case 11
Overcasting Edges 31
Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes 12
Butt Seaming 31
Important Facts about Needles 13
Inserting Patches 32
Changing the Needle 13 Attaching Lace 32
Upper Threading 14 Applique Work 33
Correct Tension Regulation 16 Straight-Stitch Hemstitching 34
Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread 16 Zigzag Hemstitching . . 34
Regulating the Thread Tension 17 Button Sewing 35.
Stitch Length Regulation 18 Sewing Buttonholes . . . 36
Reverse Sewing 18 Darning 38
Changing the Sewing Foot 19 Monogram Sewing, Embroidery 39
Preparing Your Machine for Darning 20 Sewing Monograms 39
Darning Foot 21 Cording 40
Positions of Presser Bar Lifter. . 21 Ornamental Sewing 43
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System Ironrite
Incorporating the latest technological ad
vances, these machines are ideal for every
modern home because they make ironing-
day drudgery a matter of the past.
With the Pfaff Ironers you can iron your
household wash three times as fast as before.
And what is more, you work while you are
seated, holding your arms in a comfortable
position. These efficient machines are easy
to move from room to room and, thanks to
their fold-away side flaps, take up very little
space.
With these new mochines Pfaff offers pro
gressive women a household appliance which
embodies the some high quality standords as
are incorporated in the long-valued Pfaff
sewing machines. Rigid floor model
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