FALL 2023 $16

VERLAND JO UR NAL

NEPAL˕S UPPER MUSTANG | HARD STORAGE CASES | COLORADO˕S MILLION DOLLAR HIGHWAY | UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
 CONTENTS FALL 2023

Feature
s
36 Nepal’s Upper Mustang: Forbidden Kingdoms Bring Big Magic, Lisa Morris
49 Stow It: Class-leading Exterior Hard Storage Cases, Chris Cordes
72 Colorado’s Million Dollar Highway: Views for Miles, Marianne Todd
81 Arabian Sands: Crossing the Emirates in the Land Rover Defender 130, Scott Brady
87 Feature Vehicle: 1990 Toyota Pickup, Richard Giordano
95 Survivors: Nigeria, Murder, and Mayhem, Graeme Bell
101 Crossing the Devil: First EV Traverse of America’s Longest Trail by Hummer, Scott Brady
107 Historic: Frank and Helen Schreider’s Amphibious Jeep, Ashley Giordano

Dep
artments
6 The Feed
15 Field Tested
65 Latitude, Frieda Maelle
115 Overland Routes: Chile’s Atacama Desert, Karin-Marijke Vis
121 Overland Conservation: Idaho Overland Association, Ashley Giordano
123 Skills: Learn to Survive Come Rain or Shine, Graeme Bell
129 *SHZZPJ2P[!7S\Z-V\YZ9V\[LÄUKLY>H[JO Ashley Giordano
132 Overland Chef: Berry Datschi, (RLSH>VYSK
136 Tail Lamp: Changed Forever, Chris Simon

On the cover: Navigating the sand sea requires a watchful eye, dancing the line between momentum and grabbing
a shovel. Photo by Nick Dimbleby
Table of Contents: Bactrian camels trudge in the cold desert of the Himalayas at 10,000 feet. Photo by Frieda Maelle
Back cover: Walking Nepal's footbridges, the rhythm of the swaying planks beneath our feet harmonized with the
Y\ZOPUNJ\YYLU[ZILSV^7OV[VI`1HZVU:WHɈVYK
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
OVERLAND
J O U R N A L

WE ARE ADVENTURERS Constantly traveling.

Testing and using gear in real-world situations.
Gaining experience, which we readily share.

OUR RESUME
7 continents | 161 countries | 496 years combined experience

EXPERIENCE MATTERS
WE ONLY KNOW THINGS WHEN WE LIVE THEM

FALL 2023
PUBLISHER AND CHAIRMAN Scott Brady
DIRECTOR OF DESIGN Stephanie Brady
EDITOR IN CHIEF Tena Overacker
CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER Christian Pelletier
CHIEF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT OFFICER Brian McVickers
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Andre Racine
SENIOR EDITOR Ashley Giordano
>+:,5069,+0;69 Graeme Bell
MEDICAL EDITOR Dr. Jon Solberg, MD, FAWM
ARCHAEOLOGY SENIOR EDITOR Bryon Bass, PhD
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Stephan Edwards
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Akela World, Chris Cordes,
Richard Giordano, Sean Gorman, Arden Kysely, Lisa Morris,
Tom Sheppard, Chris Simon, Marianne Todd, Karin-Marijke Vis
SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER Bruce Dorn
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Luisa Bell, Frieda Maelle,
4PJOU\Z6SP]PLY-YHURHUK/LSLU:JOYLPKLY1HZVU:WHɈVYK
Coen Wubbels
TECHNICAL EDITOR Chris Ramm
CARTOGRAPHER David Medeiros
ILLUSTRATOR Michele Dallorso
PODCAST HOST Matthew Scott
PODCAST PRODUCER Paula Burr
VIDEO DIRECTOR Ryan Keegan
OPERATIONS MANAGER Garrett Mead

CONTACT
Overland Journal, 3035 N Tarra Ave, #1, Prescott, AZ 86301
service@overlandinternational.com, editor@overlandinternational.com,
advertising@overlandinternational.com, 928-777-8567

MOVING?
Send address changes to service@overlandjournal.com. Include
complete old address as well as new address. Allow two to four
^LLRZMVY[OLJOHUNL[VILJVTLLɈLJ[P]L6]LYSHUK1V\YUHSPZ
not forwarded by the US Postal Service. It is the subscriber’s
responsibility to inform Overland Journal of an address change.

Overland Journal is a trademark of Overland International, Inc.

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written
permission is prohibited. Overland Journal is a wholly owned
subsidiary of Overland International.

NO COMPROMISE
We carefully screen all contributors to ensure they are
independent and impartial. We never have and never
will accept advertorial, and we do not allow advertising
WRLQñXHQFHRXUSURGXFWRUGHVWLQDWLRQUHYLHZV
 THE FEED
WE ARE LIVING IN A DIGITAL WORLD
Please consider developing searchable digi-
tal archives. I have well over a decade of
issues and often spend considerable time
searching for a specific article or review. A
searchable archive would be a significant
enhancement to the overall value of a sub-
scription.
Stephen Russell
U-TURN
6 I have been an Overland Journal subscriber
since the first issue. I actually traded Jona-
than Hanson [original executive editor]
some Land Rover parts, and he sent me the
first issue. I was hooked.
I will admit that I almost did not renew a
couple of years ago. I felt the magazine took
a tilt to the good-ol’-boys feel and away
from the adventures, the training, the gear,
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
and the lifestyle. I do agree with some com-
ments I have read that bemoan the fact that
it seems to be a rich person’s magazine—ex-
pensive vehicle (that I long for!), exotic trips
(also a longing), and pricey gear. However,
since Tena [Overacker, editor in chief ] has
taken the wheel, I feel it has returned closer
to [its] roots with more women’s voices,
grassroots adventures, and fantastic photos.
I am so pleased with the course correction
and will remain a loyal reader.
Tad Hylkema
2012 Toyota FJ Cruiser ( JAC)
2016 Taxa TigerMoth ( Jill)
PUBLISHER'S NOTE In the Fall 2022 issue of
Overland Journal, we tested multiple air compres-
sors for our main gear review. We used a regulat-
LKHUKJLY[PÄLKWV^LYZ\WWS`[VLUZ\YLZ[HUKHYK-
96>
@its.samantha.woodworth
Boone, the mountain dog, is in his natural habitat.
@el.vagamundo
Sunset over the Adriatic.
@dahlenadventures
Friends, brats, and snow. What could be better?
96>
@katethewild
;OPZÄYZ[NLU=;\UKYH[Y\JRPZ`LHYZVSK
It’s taken us across the country and back a few
times over the year we’ve owned it. I’m in love
with the analog dials, the lack of screens, and its
JOHYTPUNJOHYHJ[LY0ZP[NSHTVYV\Z&4VZ[KLÄUP[LS`
not. Can we drive straight up a rocky mountain
YVHK^P[OV\[T\JO^VYY`&4VZ[KLÄUP[LS``LZ
@candidalouis
It’s the people I meet along the road and their
smiles that help me appreciate the journey
even more.
@uglyducktales
We caught the rainy season in Georgia. [There
wasn’t] much time for national parks and hikes,
but neither did we have time for this 10-day wait
at the border [caused by the] bridge connecting
Georgia and Russia falling down. We warmed
up by cooking inside.
96>
@frontier_overlander
Fridays are for fresh starts. [Begin] the day with
a good breakfast.
@huskyontour
Iceland impresses with an incredible variety of
JVSVYZ;OLYLKPU[OLWPJ[\YLÄ[Z5HUVVRB[OL
truck] perfect[ly].
@un.traversed
Kevin likes reading while I drive. He hates seat
belts though—doesn’t seem too concerned
about the danger.
SHARE
Use #overlandjournal on
Instagram or Facebook.
>/,9,/(:@6<9
OVERLAND JOURNAL BEEN?
Send us a photo, along with your name, the
location, make/year of your vehicle, and a brief
description. editor@overlandinternational.com
PaLK]VS[HNLHUKZ\ɉJPLU[HTWLYHNLMVYHSS[LZ[
units. After returning the rented power supply to
the industrial testing supply house, we were ad-
]PZLK[OH[[OL\UP[MHPSLKHJLY[PÄJH[PVUYLZ\S[PUNPU
available amperage being 50 percent of rated ca-
WHJP[`;OPZHTWLYHNL]HYPH[PVUKPYLJ[S`HɈLJ[LK
two of the units tested and requires a retest and
retraction of the printed results. Our apologies to
the companies and our readers for this unfortu-
nate situation. We are conducting retests and will
publish the results in an upcoming issue of Over-
land Journal and on expeditionportal.com.
 CONTRIBUTORS FALL 2023
MARIANNE TODD
Marianne Todd has been a professional pho-
tojournalist and writer since 1987. Her career
began in newspapers and rapidly spread into
national news magazines. Her work has been
featured on the pages of Time, Life, National
Geographic, Newsweek, and the Wall Street
Journal, where she was nominated for Photog-
rapher of the Year International. Todd became
HW\ISPZOLYPU JYLH[PUN[P[SLZYLÅLJ[PUN
the music, arts, and tourism industries of the
South (she still sports the accent), and her
^VYRHZ[OLVɉJPHSWOV[VNYHWOLYMVY.V]LYUVY
Haley Barbour led her to photograph every-
thing from Hurricane Katrina to presidential
visits. Since moving to New Mexico four years
ago, she has left hard news coverage to travel
on her trusty BMW F 750 GS, journeying the
roads of America and beyond.
RICHARD GIORDANO
In 2016 Richard Giordano completed a
48,800-kilometer overland journey from Van-
couver, Canada, to Ushuaia, Argentina, with
his wife, Ashley, in their well-loved but anti-
quated 1990 Toyota Pickup. That trip catapul-
ted Richard into a career as a freelance video
8
producer and photographer. He has crafted
commercials for Toyota Canada, is the lead
photographer and director of photography
on the Expedition Overland Apex series, and
is currently on the road in Europe, relishing a
life of slow travel in his pop-up camper and
Toyota Tundra. If you see Richard out in the
wild, he’ll most likely have a smile on his face,
HZ[YVUNJVɈLLPUVULOHUKHUKHJHTLYHPU
the other. @desktoglory
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
TOM SHEPPARD
Tom’s decades of overlanding, totaling over
110,000 miles, include a UK–Gulf journey
[OYV\NOWYL[HYTHJ:H\KP(YHIPHZVSVVɈ-
tracks exploration in Libya, Algeria, and Mali,
HUKSLHKPUN[OLÄYZ[SH[LYHSJYVZZPUNHUKJVU-
tinuous gravity survey of the Sahara from the
Atlantic to the Red Sea, gaining him the Royal
Geographical Society’s Ness Award. Tom is,
as he puts it, “CEO, MD, author, photographer,
designer, and postal clerk” at Desert Winds
Publishing in the UK. Regularly updated from
originals commissioned by Land Rover, Tom’s
books have sold in 58 countries and include
the Vehicle-dependent Expedition Guide,
Four-by-four Driving, plus The Nobility of Wil-
derness, and Quiet, for a Tuesday—the story of
his 16th foray into the remotest regions of the
Algerian Sahara. desertwinds.co.uk
CHRIS CORDES
Chris was born and raised outside of Dallas,
Texas, and didn’t receive a real taste of the
overlanding lifestyle until moving to Arizona
in 2009. It was there that he fell in love with
four-wheel-drive vehicles and the great out-
doors, quite literally altering the path of his life.
Instead of pursuing his planned career in avia-
tion, Chris accepted a position with Overland
Journal and Expedition Portal, where he would
hone his skills in writing, photography, and
VɈWH]LTLU[KYP]PUN6]LY[OL`LHYZOLOHZ
lived full time on the road, mapped trails from
the Arctic Circle to Mexico, driven across Aus-
tralia, and backpacked the Himalayas. He is
currently an Airstream Ambassador and works
MVYVU?6ɈYVHKTHUHNPUN[OLPY;YHPS.\PKL
community. @4x4_touring
LISA MORRIS
JASON SPAFFORD
British born and location independent, Four
Wheeled Nomad is Lisa Morris and Jason
:WHɈVYK9LTV[L^PSKLYULZZL_WSVYH[PVUPZ[OL
couple’s driving force, enabling their skillset as
content creators. Previously, they co-ran scuba
KP]PUN[YPWZ/H]PUNO\UN\W[OLÄUZ[OL`TV[VY-
J`JSLK[OL(TLYPJHZ·HUHSTVZ[Ä]L`LHY
mile jaunt taking in Antarctica to the Arctic. Jason
PZHWOV[VNYHWOLY^OVKHIISLZPUÄSTTHRPUN/PZ
internationally published portfolio is layered in
two decades of adventure travel, landscape, and
commercial, and his beautiful captures can be
found on Instagram. Lisa freelances for publica-
tions worldwide, inspiring people to consider their
relationship with nature. They’re currently on a
photographic expedition, roaming Nordic coun-
tries in their Toyota Hilux. @fourwheelednomad
FRIEDA MAELLE
Frieda got her hands on a camera at an early
age and hasn’t put it down since. Being born
and raised in a small village in Germany, she
knew at some point she would have to move
to a bigger city to pursue her dream of being a
photographer. After studying fashion photo-
graphy in Hamburg and getting to know more
about it, the working life seemed too close
for comfort. In an about-face, Frieda bought
a 1986 Mercedes 407 with her partner (also
a photographer) and started traveling from
Germany to the Himalayas. Now she’s telling
Z[VYPLZ[OYV\NOOLYPTHNLY`HIV\[KPɈLYLU[
cultures, breathtaking nature, and social
and political issues. That sounds better than
working full time as a 21-year-old, right?
@friedamaelle
9
 CONTRIBUTORS FALL 2023

CHRIS SIMON SEAN GORMAN KARIN-MARIJKE VIS

Chris Simon is an aspiring overlander and
writer. He lives in Chapel Hill, North Carolina,
with his wife, two children, a Boston terrier,
and a ghetto cat. Born in Germany, raised in
South Africa, and educated in the US, Chris is
also an immigrant and a migrant, blessed and
cursed by not having a single national and cul-
tural identity. His professional background is in
anthropology, in which he has a PhD from UC
San Francisco and Berkeley, and in ethics, in
which he has postdoctoral training from Case
Western Reserve University. Anthropology has
MLKOPZPU[YPN\L^P[OJ\S[\YHSUVYTZHUKKPɈLY-
ences; ethics has taught him to pay attention
to the richness of people’s moral struggles and
strivings, including his own. 'TV[VWYVɈ
Raised in the mountains of Colorado, Sean
Gorman was born to explore. After climbing
the highest peaks in the US, he set his sights
on guiding some of the world’s highest moun-
[HPUZ:LHU»ZÄYZ[JHYH 3HUK9V]LY
Series IIA that he still owns, became a tool
that enabled him to develop his love for
VɈYVHKL_WSVYH[PVU/LZ[HY[LKOPZV^U
business, combining the guiding skills from
multi-month mountain expeditions and his
aLHSMVYVɈWH]LTLU[]LOPJSLIHZLK[YH]LS
Sean now consults on vehicle development
and designs driving programs for automotive
THU\MHJ[\YLYZ0M`V\JHU»[ÄUKOPTPUZVTL
YLTV[LJVYULYVM[OL^VYSK`V\TPNO[ÄUKOPT
piloting his vintage airplanes around the sky.
COEN WUBBELS
Freelance writer Karin-Marijke Vis, along with her
partner, photographer Coen Wubbels, combine
their love for adventure with work they enjoy.
Sometimes described as the “slowest overland-
ers in the world,” they believe in making connec-
tions and staying in a place long enough to do so.
In 2003, the couple purchased an antique BJ45
Land Cruiser and began a three-year trip from
their home in the Netherlands to Asia. Terminally
infected by the overland bug, they traveled in
South America for nine years and in Japan and
South Korea for two years. They are currently
making their way through Russia and Central
Asia. They’ve been published in magazines
around the world and were awarded Expedition
Portal’s coveted Overlander of the Year Award
in 2013. @landcruising.adventure

AKELA WORLD ARDEN KYSELY

For the past six years, Leander, Maria, and their
11-year-old son, Lennox, have been circumnav-
igating the globe in their beloved old Mercedes
truck named Akela. The journey has taken them
from their home in Austria through Europe and
Central Asia to Borneo and Indonesia, where
10 they have immersed themselves in diverse cul-
tures and stunning landscapes. After spending
over a year exploring Australia and the United
States, the pandemic interrupted their journey
and forced them to halt for a year. Now, fueled
by our indomitable spirit, they are back on the
road, heading toward Central America. They are
an adventurous family, continuously chasing the
horizon, seeking new experiences, and embrac-
ing the wonders that await them on their global
expedition. @akela.world
(YKLU»ZÄYZ[TV[VYJ`JSL^HZH@HTHOH
Enduro, obtained while in high school. It
ZL[[OLZ[HNLMVYKLJHKLZVMVɈWH]LTLU[
exploration on dual-sports and adventure
bikes. Camping in the middle of nowhere
became his favorite pursuit. As a former
whitewater river guide and National Park
Service seasonal employee, Arden believes
in wilderness, wildlife, and being kind to the
earth. A self-taught writer who barely passed
English classes, he has contributed adventure
stories and tested motorcycles and acces-
sories for Rider Magazine and other outlets
for nearly 30 years. In that time, he’s worn out
two KLR 650s and is currently following the
road to the middle of nowhere on his Ténéré
700 and an aging but reliable DR-Z 400S.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

12
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E X P E D I T I O N P O R TA L . C O M

THE >693+˕S LARGEST OVERLAND COMMUNITY

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

14
FIELD TESTED MARIANNE TODD
Clockwise from top:;OL)\SIHNVɈLYZHU\TILY
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cation and documents, so that your most impor-
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| Users can store pens, tire pressure gauges, and
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[OL [OPNO ZV [OH[ [OL IHN LɈVY[SLZZS` Z[H`Z ^P[O
a rider.
U KoalaBag Bulbag USA
The best little bag on the planet.
U KoalaBag has undoubtedly grown
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strapped to the hip of its wearer. And now,
with the release of Bulbag USA, the Geor-
gia-based company is making good on its
promise of being “The best little bag on the
planet … that just got a little more than a
little better.”
Bulbag is billed as U KoalaBag’s flag-
ship of carry-all bags and is in the compa-
ny’s continual improvement focus to meet
the needs of a myriad of users. U KoalaBag
company owner and CEO PJ Powell says,
unlike previous lines, Bulbag USA is 100
percent American-made. The move was
partly a nod to his grandfather, a World
War II pilot. PJ had discovered his grand-
father’s military bags in an attic one day and
wanted to recreate the look and feel for his
growing customer base. “He had map case
bags made from duster coat materials, like
oil canvas, but I didn’t want to use petro-
leum products,” PJ says. “Customers had
been turned off by the China production,
and I thought about my grandfather’s bags
and said I’d make an American-made bag
if it’s the last thing I do.” In another nod to
Powell’s grandfather, the company is work-
ing to offer Bulbag in a waxed canvas.
PJ began working with a former Green
Beret, who assisted with the cut-and-sew
operation and process. “I haven’t had one
bag returned for any reason,” he said. “No
seam has come apart, no zipper, no stitch-
ing loose.”
This is a thick and beefy piece of essen-
tial everyday carry kit and was a breeze to fill
and wear while riding my BMW F 750 GS.
The best part is that it’s so accommodating
ergonomically that you forget it’s there—no
more rifling through overpacked tank bags for
your essentials before you can get off the bike.
Instead of cramming
my tank bag with It’s so accommodating
ergonomically that
stuff, I tossed in my
you forget it’s there—
wallet, extra cash
UVTVYLYPÅPUN[OYV\NO
and keys, credit card, overpacked tank bags
sunglasses, battery for your essentials
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closure right where your hand drops to your
hip. The added adjustable leg strap assures the
bag isn’t going anywhere. Plus, it looks cool.
Created from 1,000-denier American-
made Cordura nylon, Bulbag offers 10
pockets for varying items, some hidden
from view, perfect for a passport or cash
(military rough sacks are created with the
same material at 500 denier.) This bag is 15
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OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
 FIELD TESTED SCOTT BRADY
FROM THE GROUND UP, THIS IS THE MOST
CAPABLE, SAFE, AND EFFICIENT OF GRAND
CHEROKEES EVER PRODUCED.
16
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
Grand Cherokee 4xe TrailHawk
The Swiss Army knife of overlanding vehicles.
J eep has always been the original
overlanding vehicle, producing high-
quality and high-volume 4WDs since 1941.
Jeep started making wagon SUVs in 1946
with the Willys Wagon and is often cred-
ited with popularizing the SUV with the
Wagoneer in 1963. Luxury soon followed
with the Grand Wagoneer in 1984 and the
launch of the 1993 Grand Cherokee. Im-
pressively, over 3 million Grand Cherokees
have been sold worldwide.
Grand Cherokees have also been long-
time members of my family’s fleet, with
our current count at three, including three
four-generation vehicles driven by my dad,
sister, and nephew. My first Grand Chero-
kee was a 1993 model, which I modified
slightly and drove off-road with abandon.
This was followed by a lower mileage and
better-equipped 1996 with the straight-six
upcountry suspension. My modifications
were limited to a front sway bar disconnect
and a rear locker, and the Jeep went every-
where I wanted it to go, including some of
my first overland adventures.
Fast forward to the Jeep Grand Chero-
kee Trailhawk 4xe, the fifth-generation
platform equipped with a dizzying array
of technologies and capabilities. From the
ground up, this is the most capable, safe, and
efficient of Grand Cherokees ever produced,
complete with 31-inch tall tires, E-locking
differentials, 11 inches of ground clearance,
and even a class-exclusive driver-selectable
sway bar disconnect. The list continues with
two GVWR recovery points on the front,
one hook in the rear, and a 2-inch receiver
in the rear. Skid plates are affixed to all the
vulnerable bits underneath, and the bum-
pers are optimized for clearance, achieving
an impressive 35.7-degree approach with
a 30-degree departure angle. Most of this
clearance is accomplished with the air sus-
pension system, which has five modes: ac-
cess, aero, normal, off-road 1, and off-road
2. In practice, off-road 2 should be reserved
for clearing a significant obstacle and then
reverted to 1, as there is limited extension
travel or ride quality in that setting.
I took on the challenge of optimizing
both the electric-only and overall hybrid
range. The plug-in hybrid electric vehicle
(PHEV) configuration is really the best
of all worlds, yielding the benefits of a hy-
brid, an EV, and an internal combustion
engine (ICE) overland vehicle. We have a
220-volt/50-amp, level-two charger at the
office, and it took only two hours to charge
the 4xe from empty to full. I could drive
from the office to downtown Prescott and
back on an EV-only charge (14-mile round
trip), and I still had a 56 percent state of
charge remaining. I was hypermiling, and
it was perfect weather to optimize the re-
sult, but this shows the benefits of a PHEV.
At the current electricity rate in Arizona’s
Yavapai County, it costs only $2.64 to
charge the battery full, which is nearly half
the price of equivalent miles in fuel, and a
time savings too. Anytime I would leave
for a trail ride, I would select eSave mode,
which would retain the charge until I was
in the dirt and could enjoy four-wheeling in
glorious electronic silence.
On the trail, the Trailhawk exhibits a
wide range of capabilities, although it is
not exceptional at any of them. Think of it
more like a Swiss Army knife than a filet

blade. For example, on most rock obstacles,
the combination of rear locker, extended air
suspension, low center of gravity (COG),
and front swaybar disconnect allows it to
clear ledges and rocks that would stop all
but the most capable competitors. However,
it does not do it with the ease of a Wran-
gler, so a spotter is recommended. The Jeep
also manages moderate speeds with solid
balance and composure, benefiting from
the independent front and rear suspension,
COG, and quality tires. It builds good driv-
er confidence right up to legal speeds, but
anything too spirited invites aggressive ve-
hicle stability control intervention and the
limits of compression travel. The Trailhawk
has been optimized to perform well in all
off-highway conditions, but it is not appro-
priate at the extremes. That result rewards
the owner in all other practical driving ap-
plications, be it 80 mph on the interstate
or when loaded with four passengers for a
family road trip, sailboat in tow.
As an overlanding machine, the Grand
Cherokee has been a joy, easily hauling
an Escapod Topo 2 teardrop trailer across
mixed terrain. I was able to tow in electric-
only mode, benefiting from the regular re-
gen moving through the flow of the Sonoran
Desert trail. Wildlife was unfazed by our
presence, and a covey of quail meandered
around the Jeep for several hundred meters,
never once spooking. The towing capacity of
6,000 pounds allows for any reasonable over-
land trailer, but care must be made around
payload, as the 4xe battery weight reduces
the rating to 1,100 pounds. With two adults
and a 500-pound tongue weight, nearly all
of the payload is consumed, with just a few
hundred pounds left for tools and recovery
gear. Fortunately, the airbag suspension can
compensate for the load, but there are lim-
its. For long overland routes, driver fatigue
is low, with comfortable and supportive seats
(featuring cooling and heating), and a quiet
interior. I did note some harshness from the
engine, which was noticeable at low speeds.
There is also significant suspension noise
and topping in off-road positions 1 and 2,
but neither dampened my experience.
Overall, the Trailhawk Grand Cherokee
4xe is an impressive confluence of capa-
PROS
56 mpge and 25 miles on
electric only
Class-exclusive swaybar
disconnect
Rear and center E-locking
KPɈLYLU[PHSZ
Driver adjustable air suspension
with 11 inches of ground
clearance
CONS
1,100-pound payload (should
be 1,500 pounds+)
9PKLX\HSP[`PUVɈYVHK
suspension heights
Engine noise and harshness
bilities and technologies, allowing for daily
driving in EV only, the silence of EV trail
runs, and the flexibility of a hybrid drive-
train. The vehicle is fast and efficient yet still
able to negotiate all but the most extreme
overland routes. The design is also rugged
and classy, making it one of the most attrac-
tive new SUVs on the market. Jeep deserves
praise for releasing an SUV in 2023 with
more capability and efficiency than any oth-
er Cherokee model before it, and it is right
at home on the Pan-American Highway or
the boulevard with equal aplomb.
JEEP.COM | $68,000 AS TESTED
17
The 4xe strikes the impossible balance between
LɉJPLUJ` JHWHIPSP[` HUK JVTMVY[ WHJRHNPUN P[
in an attractive design. | Opposite: Editor in Chief
Tena Overacker pilots the Trailhawk through cross-
axle terrain, testing the sway bar disconnect.
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
 FIELD TESTED STEPHAN EDWARDS
The HovBeta’s folding step-through frame is rigid
and rugged. | Opposite clockwise from top
right: The LCD screen is easy to read, even in
bright sunlight. |>OLUMVSKLK[OL/V])L[HÄ[ZPU
small spaces, but weighs just over 66 pounds—
so lift carefully. | The touch pad controls drive
modes and scrolls through data on the instru-
ment panel. | The 7-speed Shimano drivetrain
backs up the 750-watt electric motor.
18
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
Hovsco HovBeta 20-inch
Foldable Fat Tire Electric Bike
Robust power output, useable range, and competitive pricing.
F rom basic pedal assist to near mo-
torcycle-like capabilities, the e-bike
field is diverse and often appeals to over-
landers looking to add a secondary mode of
transportation to their outfit. The Hovsco
HovBeta folding step-through e-bike is a
viable option, offering relevant features in a
compact package.
Like most direct-to-consumer e-bikes,
the HovBeta requires some assembly.
Working methodically with clear step-by-
step instructions and an included tool kit,
it took me 40 minutes to build the bike,
and most of that time was spent freeing
it from its many layers of packaging. The
most fiddly part of the process was aligning
and clamping down the folding stem and
handlebars. Otherwise, everything came
together quickly. The battery had a 100
percent charge, the drivetrain was perfectly
tuned, and the hydraulic disc brakes fully
bled right out of the gate.
The final step to getting the HovBeta
rolling requires connecting the bike’s com-
puter to your smartphone via Bluetooth
and the Hovsco app. Every HovBeta comes
with its own unique QR code printed on
the plastic screen protector on the bike’s
LCD. Scan the code using the app, and the
bike will be ready to ride. If you ever break
your phone and it’s not backed up, or if you
have multiple riders for one bike, you’ll need
to scan it again to reconnect.
The Hovsco model has a claimed 40-
60 miles of range from its removable
720-watt-hour Samsung Li-ion battery
and five user-selected power levels for the
750-watt (sustained) torque-sensing brush-
less rear hub motor. The pedaled drivetrain
is a bit of an afterthought, and even though
it shifts crisply, the 7-speed Shimano rear
derailleur is no XTR. A stiction-free 45mm
travel front suspension fork with compres-
sion and rebound adjustment and lockout
completes the front end. It does seem like
a bit of overkill, especially with the fat tires.
With this bike’s heft, you’re unlikely to be,
as Napoleon Dynamite says, ready to “take
it off any sweet jumps” anytime soon.
The stem is adjustable up and down,
which offers more aggressive riding posi-
tions but not exceptionally so. The Hov-
Beta has upright seating and somewhat
slack steering. It folds fast for storage with
two burly quick-release levers—one on the
bottom of the frame and the other on the
stem. The collapsed footprint is manage-
ably small, and there’s no need to remove
the front wheel. It fits easily in the trunk of
a small sedan, but at nearly 67 pounds, the
HovBeta is no lightweight.
Power is an area where Hovsco excels.
With 85 newton meters of torque, this bike
fairly screams when pinned, and it’s best to
lay on the throttle only when you’re pointed
straight down the
Power is an area where
trail. With the
Hovsco excels. With 85
small wheels and newton meters of torque,
relaxed geometry, this bike fairly screams
it took me a few when pinned,
miles to get used
to the twitchy steering, especially under
load. I found both the thumb throttle and
the pedal assist drive to be somewhat abrupt
in all modes, and I wished for a little more
linearity. It can haul up to 450 pounds, and
Hovsco offers a range of accessories, like
baskets and racks, for carrying all your stuff.
As a Class 2 e-bike, the HovBeta is gov-
erned at 20 mph in North America, but
with the app, you can unlock a top speed of
28 mph, which bumps it up to Class 3.
Let’s discuss that app. It’s intuitive to
use and bug-free, and it connects reliably
to the bright LCD and command center
on the handlebars. It also has several useful
features that log your stats on the bike, as
well as connect you to other Hovsco riders
in their online community. But most im-
portantly, to use the HovBeta’s full capa-
bilities, it needs to be connected to the app.
Without it, the bike is restricted to a measly
6 mph.
The HovBeta took to the miles of paved
road and mildly rugged off-piste trails I
rode with assurance. The fat, floaty tires and
low center of gravity inspired confidence,
and I surprised some four-wheeled traf-
fic with the bike’s acceleration off the line.
Despite the folding feature, the structure of
the HovBeta never felt wobbly or unhinged.
Uphill grades didn’t diminish the power de-
livery significantly, and the brakes scrubbed
speed without drama despite the weight.
The observed range was within expecta-
tions, and the Hovsco HovBeta works well
for its target task and purpose.
$1,799 | HOVSCO.COM

19

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 FIELD TESTED GRAEME BELL

Fjällräven Skogsö
;OPZSPNO[S`WHKKLK]LYZH[PSLQHJRL[VќLYZZ\WLYI^HYT[O

T he Arctic fox on the shoulder speaks volumes. When

I meet a traveler and they are wearing Fjällräven,
I know that the person is either Scandinavian, well-traveled,
well-heeled, or all three. I am merely well-traveled and have
been yearning for a Fjällräven jacket ever since I was freezing
in Patagonia, and my Scandinavian companion was not. In late
October 2021, I finally took receipt of a Skogsö. The problem
with finally owning gear you have coveted for years is that the
risk of disappointment is real. Would I be disappointed? Is the
Skogsö the new Land Rover Defender? Let’s find out.
The Skogsö is a hip-length, lightly padded winter jacket
constructed of PFC-free, G-1000 material with a fixed, adjust-
able hood. G-1000 is Fjällräven’s “cornerstone material,” used in
everything from backpacks to jackets and trousers. Densely wo-
ven and made from 65 percent polyester and 35 percent cotton,
it’s adaptable to various climatic conditions when treated with
Greenland Wax. Wind-resistant and water-resistant, the jack-
et ventilates body moisture that builds up during activity. The
synthetic padding G-Loft Supreme gives extra warmth, even
in damp conditions, and the jacket is easy to move about in,
with or without a backpack. The sleeves are pre-shaped, and the
cuffs are adjusted with Velcro. The covered zipper is two-way
with a protective flap with press buttons at the chin, chest, and
hem. Practical storage abounds, with two vertical pockets on the frigid air on my face and snowflakes falling gently around me.
chest and two at the sides—all with zippers that have oversized Was I cold? No, I certainly was not.
pullers so they can easily be opened and closed with gloves on. Over the next six winter months, exploring the Pacific
Two spacious mesh pockets on the in- Northwest and multiple icy passes and camps, the Skogsö be-
The synthetic padding side are perfect for storing gloves or a came my go-to jacket. The G-1000 material (unwaxed for the
G-Loft Supreme gives hat. A drawcord can be used to adjust purpose of this review) resisted moisture and dirt while drying
extra warmth, even in
the bottom hem. quickly when wet. The only negatives are that the main torso
damp conditions, and
Slipping on the jacket brought a zip is fiddly, and the tag is too small for practical use with thick
the jacket is easy to
move about in.
broad smile to my face. I was imme- winter gloves. Some reviewers of this jacket (and other gar-
diately impressed by the silky smooth ments) have suggested that a buyer should size down, as Fjäll-
100 percent polyamide inner lining, and the fit was just right, räven’s clothing tends to be a tad on the larger size. I found that
with ample space for layering. According to the experts, layer- the jacket’s volume made it more comfortable and practical for
20 ing is the key to dressing for extreme cold, and I soon found the everyday use. The jet black shade was colorfast, even after a few
jacket alone to be snug and comfortable for a brisk walk in light washes to remove the smoky campfire Eau de Overlander.
snow. The true test would be at a camp on top of a mountain $365 | FJALLRAVEN.COM
in deep snow with minus temperatures; I set out to find such
an environment. Getting a tad lost in the hills north of Boise,
Idaho, provided the perfect opportunity after a late-evening
Clockwise from top(UVY[OLYU0KHOV^PU[LYPZUVTH[JOMVY[OL:RVNZȮ
drive on a virgin snow path, avoiding a road closed by a small with layers worn beneath. | The dual chest pockets are the ideal size
avalanche. I layered up with a T-shirt, cotton hoodie, and the and great for storing valuables. | The G-Loft Supreme synthetic padding
Skogsö, and set about getting camp ready while enjoying the is remarkably comfortable.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

FIELD TESTED SEAN GORMAN

N o matter what kind of overland travel you partake in, striking

a balance between comfort and available space can be tricky. Hydaway Collapsible
Insulated Bowl
Multi-purpose equipment eliminates the tendency to carry too much
stuff. For this reason, Hydaway’s collapsible bowls have become an im-
portant part of my cooking kit.
Hydaway started as a Kickstarter campaign to build collapsible Simple, multi-purpose functionality
water bottles to curb the excessive disposable plastic water bottle
problem facing the planet. The campaign was so successful that they in a small package.
followed up with cups and collapsible insulated bowls. Bowls are avail-
able in 32- and 12-ounce versions and come with rubber-sealed lids.
The smaller bowl lid has a clever drinking spout built into it that al-
lows it to be used as a bowl or a cup. The decorated cover protects your
hands from hot food rather than insulating the interior.
I’ve found the space savings of these silicone bowls allow them to
easily fit into my camp box as they collapse to less than 1 inch thick.
They have stainless steel rings on the top for structure, providing a
good sealing surface for the lids, perfect for my leftovers. They are
dishwasher-safe, easy to clean by hand in the backcountry, and come
in multiple designs to suit your individual style. The silicone body eas-
ily handles boiling temperatures and is inherently very durable. The
best part is that they don’t rattle while in the camp box.
$30/1 QUART, $20/1.5 CUP | MYHYDAWAY.COM

21
FIELD TESTED ARDEN KYSELY

R ev’It pursues new fabrics and clothing technologies

like many of us seek the next challenging backroad
or stunning campsite. Their Storm WB (for wind barrier)
jacket is no exception. Rev’It combines Hydratex WindBar-
rier fabric for water resistance, moisture wicking, and breath-
ability with Exkin Air insulation panels for warmth. Though
designed as a mid-layer thermal jacket for colder weather rid-
ing, the Storm WB’s light weight and small packed size make
it a good choice for an auxiliary garment on any ride.
The three-layer Hydratex WindBarrier is a stretchy, lami-
nated fabric with a water-resistant coating. The feel is soft,
and the fit is snug, the latter due to its stretch component.
Thumb loops aid in guiding the Storm through jacket sleeves.
Thin, lightweight Exkin Air panels, claimed to have one of
the highest warmth indexes available, cover the chest and

Photo by James Norris

back to maintain core warmth. The Exkin’s properties also in-
clude warm when wet and quick to
The jacket kept me dry. Note that some websites mis-
warmer on the bike takenly promote the Storm WB as
than any other layer
waterproof; it is not.
that thin ever has and
I wore the Storm while riding
easily accepted another
my favorite local SoCal roads in
layer on top when the
mercury dropped. mild weather until colder tempera-
tures arrived for a better test. I nev-
Rev’It Storm WB Jacket
er felt sweaty in it while exerting, even in the heat of the day.
It truly breathes, a key to keeping a rider warm, and it is com- This jacket’s advanced tech delivers
fortable enough for extended wearing. Cold weather came on in varying conditions.
strong on a Mojave Desert ride last fall. I spent nearly a week
wearing (and sometimes sleeping in) the Storm while explor-
ing areas around the Mojave Preserve and Joshua Tree Na-
tional Park. The jacket kept me warmer on the bike than any
other layer that thin ever has and easily accepted another layer
on top when the mercury dropped. I’ve also worn the Storm
WB for bicycle rides and dog walking on cool days, noting its
wind protection, especially when on the bike.
Using it in varying conditions expanded my perception of
the Storm WB’s performance envelope from a cold-weather
mid-layer to a light jacket for milder conditions. As a pocket
lover, I had to accept a garment with only one pocket—a
phone-sized compartment on the chest. As someone who
counts ounces when packing, the 13-ounce size medium I 23
tested is good news. As a lazy person, I wish it wasn’t hand-
wash only, but that’s how I discovered it holds a lot of wa-
ter when soaked. The Storm WB is sewn to last, with serged
seams nearly everywhere and a YKK coil zipper. It looks
pretty sharp, too.
$210 | REVITSPORT.COM

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

FIELD TESTED GRAEME BELL

I n late 2012, we said goodbye to our home in Cape

Town, South Africa, and packed the Land Rover for
an expedition that would take us around the world without

Craghoppers Clothing
pause. We researched and sourced gear that would serve us
best in preparation for the journey. When living an adventur-
ous lifestyle on the road, you learn to depend on the layer
which buffers your body from the elements. Wind, sun, rain,
heat, and cold will erode your enthusiasm as sure as they erode A long-term review of the UK-based
rock, and, as the Norwegians say, there is no such thing as bad clothing company whose products
weather, only bad clothing. We eventually agreed to source a
limited wardrobe of Craghoppers clothing for each member
keep going and going.
of the family, including waterproof and winter jackets, shirts,
summer dresses, hats, cargo shorts, and trousers, and later
boots and hiking socks (we are still waiting impatiently for
the company to produce a line of underwear). The images ac-
companying this article span from 2012 to 2022, and not all
articles of clothing are depicted, as we have chosen to focus
on a few stand-out products.
For overland travel, we
Craghoppers is a British cloth-
ÄUK[OLYHUNLVMHWWHYLS
impressive as these items
ing manufacturer that has been
tend to be lightweight, producing high-quality garments
compact for storage, since 1965, focusing on technology
KPɉJ\S[[VKPY[`ZPTWSL and durability, and they do their job
to clean, and quick to dry. very, very well. It is incredible to
wear an item of clothing that has
the ability to moderate your body temperature, to keep you cool
or warm, depending on the weather. How is it possible that a
piece of fabric can wick moisture from your body and disperse
it to avoid sweat spots and odor while simultaneously providing
an effective barrier to the wind? Incredible.
My children have hiked Torres del Paine in Argentina
and Chamonix in France wearing Craghoppers clothing. We items tend to be lightweight, compact for storage, difficult
have circumnavigated South America and driven across con- to dirty, simple to clean, and quick to dry. And by reducing
tinents, and we still have almost every article of Craghoppers laundry on the road, we save resources, time, and energy. The
we have ever possessed. Those that we no longer have were technology invested in the materials is simply astonishing,
lost or stolen from a washing line. The fabric does not tear, and you will be amazed by how long and well the clothing
nor do the seams fail. There may have been broken buttons will serve you.
but no worn holes, no broken zips, and no drama. The cloth- Please note that the majority of clothing reviewed was
ing itself is not high fashion, but instead high tech. And if you selected for travel in hot climates and that many Craghoppers
are a tight-fisted muppet like me, it is the tech you are after, as products, which are available in the UK and Europe, are not
you soon realize that low-quality, low-cost clothing is a false directly available in the USA. However, some items can be 25
economy. Driving across Western Africa, my wife and I used sourced from REI or Amazon.
our NosiLife mosquito repellent clothing religiously and did Read on to see our Craghoopers top of the pops gear.
not contract malaria; our children, being children, were not as
disciplined, and both contracted malaria (worry not, they are
both fine after a course of Coartem).
Craghoppers offers a range of clothing that offers excep- Dressed in his Craghoppers trousers, boots, and the ever-present
tional value, good looks, and excellent functionality. For over- ILHUPL2LLSHU)LSSÄSSZH^H[LYÄS[LYIV[[SLMYVTHUPYYPNH[PVU[YLUJO
land travel, we find the range of apparel impressive as these in Morocco.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 MEN’S NOSILIFE ADVENTURE II
LONG-SLEEVED SHIRT | $105
;OL(K]LU[\YL00PZT`NV[VZOPY[UVTH[[LY[OL^LH[OLY0[VɈLYZ
sun-protective and anti-insect properties and is constructed of
lightweight ripstop material, which wicks moisture away from the
ZRPUMVYLɈLJ[P]LJVVSPUNHUKHU[PVKVYHJ[PVU0UOV[HUKO\TPK
climates, the vented back allows cool air to reach your skin, and
the shirt also features a sunglass wipe on the lower right front hem,
LX\HSS`\ZLM\SMVYJSLHUPUNTPZ[`JHTLYHSLUZLZ>P[OÄ]LWVJR-
L[ZP[»ZHWPJRWVJRL[»ZUPNO[THYL·UV[L]LU*VWWLYÄLSKOPTZLSM
would be able to get a sleek hand onto your passport or credit
card zipped behind the breast pocket. A cavernous concealed and
zipped pocket on the right breast can securely store large quanti-
ties of precious gear against your skin. An extendable collar allows
greater sun protection, but, in my experience, this extension is not
entirely necessary for a tall man with a short neck; the collar is a bit still repels mosquitos after eight years and countless washes is
too chunky and not as crisp as I would like. \WMVYKLIH[LI\[0KVUV[Z\ɈLYIP[LZ[VT`[VYZVVYHYTZ^OLU
wearing the shirts with unrolled sleeves. One would think that
I have two Adventure II shirts; one has been my faithful companion ^LHYPUNSVUNZSLL]LZPZJV\U[LYPU[\P[P]LPUOV[^LH[OLYI\[0ÄUK
since 2015. I truly believe that the shirt has gone a long way to pre- the UV protection and moisture-wicking keep me cool. Available
vent malaria infection and might well have saved my life. Whether it in women’s sizes as well.

SALADO HI BOOTS | $179

These waterproof hiking boots are highly breathable and are com-
pletely resistant to odor-causing bacteria—no more stinky boots
fouling the camper. The Salado features a high-cut, ankle-protecting
top with a ghillie lacing system for additional support. The mosquito
repellant NosiLife suede-and-mesh upper adds a barrier of protec-
tion, while the Crawlerguard “net” is a stroke of genius. The Crawl-
erguard is packed within the tongue of the boot and stretched over
[OLJVSSHY^OLUUV[^VYUWYV]PKPUNHULɈLJ[P]LIHYYPLY[VJYLH[\YLZ
such as snakes, scorpions, and spiders, which might crawl into an
unattended boot—my worst nightmare, and I suspect yours as well.
These boots weigh next to nothing, are incredibly comfortable, and
are a pleasure to wear all day. The comfortable Vibram outsole is
complemented by a soft and comfortable ethylene-vinyl acetate
(EVA) foam midsole.

My singular criticism of these boots is that the laces (which have

never been replaced during the last three years of use) are a few
PUJOLZ[VVZOVY[MVYHKV\ISLRUV[PM`V\WYLMLYHSVVZLÄ[@LZ^L
long-term overlanders have only two pairs of shoes—hiking boots
HUKÅPWÅVWZ·HUKOPRPUNIVV[ZZLY]LHZKYP]PUNIVV[Z^HSRPUN
boots, and everyday boots.
26
Despite nearly constant hard use, these boots have never let
me down. Whether covered in red African soil or clinging Central
American clay, hiking through streams, walking up desert moun-
tain trails, or searching a city for car parts and a reliable ATM, the
:HSHKVIVV[ZHYLÄ[MVYW\YWVZL0^PSSILYLWSHJPUNT`J\YYLU[WHPY
with another.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 WOMEN’S NOSILIFE
SAVANNAH DRESS | $105
When our Jessica was
six years old, we load-
ed the Defender and
drove from Cape Town
to Dar es Salaam. Her
all-time favorite dress
was a khaki button-up,
which she wore as often
as possible until she
outgrew the little safari
dress (she named it her
NOSILIFE INSECT SHIELD Eira dress after a Span-
ADVENTURE JACKET II | $240 ish friend who wore a
similar dress). A few
The Adventure jacket is designed for a hot climate but is an all-around years later, when asked
performer, the kind Indy would have worn while chasing baddies from to choose clothing
,\YVWL[V,N`W[[V0UKVULZPH0ÄUKP[WLYMLJ[MVY[OVZLKH`Z^OLU from the Craghoppers
you need to carry extra essentials and keep the wind from your skin. website, she came across the Savannah, and her eyes lit up.
For Southern Hemisphere winters, it can be combined with a hoodie The Savannah is a classical, timeless adventure dress reimagi-
to provide an extra layer of comfort. The jacket incorporates all the ned for contemporary travelers. It features a button-up design,
tech you need for a long-haul adventure, featuring NosiLife anti-insect belted waist, roomy patch pockets, and a modest collar. The
treatment and sun protection. It boasts 11 pockets, an RFID pocket, quick-drying anti-insect ottoman fabric combats odor for a fresh
a zipped sleeve, and a dry bag for storing precious documents. feel all day long, and the garment includes an extended collar,
a top button, a back hem vent, and four practical pockets. The
With all the storage I need and rugged good looks, the jacket is func- :H]HUUHOPZJVUZ[Y\J[LKVMWVS`HTPKLZ`U[OL[PJÄILYZ[OH[HYL
tional, comfortable, and perfect for overlanding. The dry bag is es- durable, abrasion-resistant, and designed to absorb but not
sential as the jacket is not waterproof or water-resistant. Despite this, retain moisture.
the Adventure jacket is never far from reach, no matter the weather
L_JLW[MVYKLLW5VY[OLYU/LTPZWOLYL^PU[LYZ(NHPU[OLILULÄ[ Despite years of use across rugged terrain, the dress looks and
of mosquito repellent clothing is a major advantage. feels nearly as good as new and will likely continue to bring a
smile to Jessica’s face now that she has stopped outgrowing
all of her favorite clothing.

MEN’S NOSILIFE CARGO II SHORTS | $80

A good pair of shorts is essential when on the tropical trail,
HUK[OL5VZPSPML*HYNV00VɈLYZL_JLSSLU[OV[JSPTH[LWLYMVY-
mance. These low-maintenance, go-anywhere cargo shorts
YLWLSTVZX\P[VZHUKHYLHU[PVKVY^P[OH,\YVWLHUZ[`SLÄ[ PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT
a part-elasticated waist, and nine pockets. The right-side
TO AVOID THE PROBLEM OF INCORRECT
hip pocket is complemented by a second zip-up security 27
FIT WHEN PURCHASING ONLINE, WE
pocket which is perfect for carrying a wallet or mobile phone
in areas where you require security against theft or loss. The ENCOURAGE BUYERS TO MAKE USE

left thigh pocket also features a second security pocket and OF THE SIZE GUIDE AVAILABLE ON THE
a dry bag for those unexpected wet adventures. While snug, CRAGHOPPERS WEBSITE. TAKE TIME
the shorts are never restrictive, and the one repair after years TO MEASURE YOURSELF AND BUY
of use was a replacement waist button. The only design
ACCORDING TO YOUR EXACT SIZE.
feature which is not entirely necessary is the two clipped
hip belt loops which tend to pop open.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

FIELD TESTED
FROM THE DESK OF TOM SHEPPARD—
RAW AND UNABRIDGED
High-end Garmin kit for pilots. Add thick cloud, turbulence, and an uncom-
fortable fuel state, and you do want everything to work.
Garmin 276Cx is close to ideal: optimum size, buttons instead of the usual
try-once-try-again-oh-damn touchscreen. Best mapping (Ordnance Survey
Great Britain—OSGB) and spot-on positioning on the map. “Dashboard”
(data on the right) can be customised.
Expedition Nav
A careful (approving) look at Garmin’s 276Cx.
F ew will be unaware that Garmin makes a lot of different
hand-held GPS units and countless fancy watches. They also
do flight instruments. Indeed, complete flight deck updates for air-
craft: navigation, route flying, autopilots, and auto-lands. The de-
sign specifications and certification criteria for such systems may be
imagined.
A bit more demanding than an afternoon in the Welsh hills with
a satnav. But what if the Welsh hills were the Sahara or a target track
50 miles north of a bend in the Amazon? Is reliability for handhelds
any less vital?
A wide-screen feel for Garmin’s immense shop window helps.
I have not bought a Garmin Forerunner 245 watch or zombied my
way, slack-jawed, through the 18 (yes 18) YouTubes that accompany
it. But what I have bought over the last few years, in the context
of vehicle-borne expeditions, are three of Garmin’s dual-role satnav
units, two of which failed. And had to be replaced—in one case, after
more than a year’s “discussion” with Garmin Europe—and both still
show data readout mismatches.
Because in a previous edition of the Desert Winds book, Vehicle-
dependent Expedition Guide (VDEG Edn 4.1a), I had rightly praised
my Garmin GPSMap 276Cx, it was necessary to post a modifying
addendum in VDEG.5a (new for 2023), explaining that the 276Cx
I bought had quit to a black screen after three seconds. For keeps.
Asking what had gone wrong and what had been done about it
met with no explanation from Garmin. Pending clear answers from
what was to be a 15-month period of exchanges with Garmin’s base
in the UK, I declined a replacement until the failures were explained.
Eventually, I cautiously accepted a new unit. 29
In the meantime, it had been important to point out to VDEG
readers that, impressive as the 276Cx was in so many respects, it
should thus not be used as the sole navigation device in remote re-
gions without backup. A loose-leaf addendum/alert to VDEG.v5
was, and still is, issued if an overlap previous edition book is sent.
Driven to follow my own advice, a backup Garmin 66i was
purchased—a further £500 on top of the 276’s £700—noting that
it usefully incorporated emergency satellite communication rescue
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

Want to get out and explore on foot up the v4x4 expeditions? Use the pow-
ered quick-release mount (see p.4) and switch to onboard Li-Ion—good for
up to 16 hours.
The size and clarity of the 276Cx display in use when driving is obvious. But-
tons are best. Know what’s dead-accurate and what’s not.
Perfect match, true data. Regarding positioning on a map, the units (tiny-
30
screen 66i on left; larger, 4x4-friendly screen 276Cx on right). What you want
(absolutely need), the 276 gives. Note, though, externally-sourced map and
data (two versions of the UK OSGB map.) Cyan road overlay indicates the
route covered so far.
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
alert messages (Garmin’s excellent InReach facility). Cussedly, the
66i’s operating system was radically different, actually more intui-
tive (after the learning curve), albeit for vehicle-mounted expedi-
tions, the tiny map display of the 66i (38-millimeter square with
the “dashboard”) was of little use.
Initially, all was well: replacement 276 and 66i backup. Then
the 66i, when stationary, developed a wildly oscillating compass
and map display. Mobile, it worked fine, but when you stopped to
check your position, the display was unreadable. So, like the 276,
the 66i, too, was returned to Garmin UK and replaced. (Pretty
much standard on Garmin units is a magnetic compass designed
to work when stationary or at up to about 4 mph walking but
switches to satellite-derived directional data above that speed—
critically valuable in regions like South Africa where magnetic
variation can be as frighteningly high as 25° off true north.)
In terms of geographical user-positioning—latitude and lon-
gitude—shown on downloaded maps, both the 276 and 66i be-
haved, as before, with reassuring precision. I didn’t realise it at the
time, but some clues to the unit’s Achilles heel were beginning to
emerge. Satellite-sourced lat/long OK; on-board-sourced heights,
way out.
In view of what went before, the two satnavs were checked and
compared side-by-side on a test bike on a hilly route. A dozen or
more trips were logged. Here’s one (left). Let’s look at the eleva-
tion figures first.
Altimeters work by sensing the prevailing ambient air pres-
sure. Overnight meteorological changes can introduce appar-
ent altitude errors. As with pre-flight “zero-ing” a pilot’s altim-
eter, satnavs such as the 276 and 66i have to be calibrated to your
known altitude before use. Altitude and the ascent figure beneath
it on the two units should thus be identical as the trip progresses.
Mismatches (276 versus 66i) of up to 100 percent (only 20 percent
shown here) were encountered, indicating barometric sensors of
a different design being used on the two devices (confirmed by
Garmin).
THE CLUES
Those clues? Internal and external data sources! Precise alti-
tude is unlikely to be survival-dependent. Geographical position
could well be. Read that again. You have to ask: what should you
do with two expensive units that failed, one of which was the
“backup”? It is tempting to rule this equipment out as just not be-
ing of the required standard for remote region use at all. Failure in
the field is not acceptable.
But the terminal black screen incident on the 276 above ex-
cepted, if the crashes and elevation mismatches or other periph-
eral issues occur, some vital functions may still be valid. A little
calm analysis is worthwhile.
Position and odometer data is externally sourced from immac-
ulately fettled satellites way up there: thanks, NASA. The process-
ing of that data is well established, and in all the tests, both the
276 and 66i matched actual positions with impressive precision
on loaded Ordnance Survey GB (UK) maps, arguably in a class
by themselves for accuracy and presentation. However, height and
other “dashboard” data—from internal data sources—show very
much as barometric capsules (et al) of differing designs decide on
the day. Hmm. Internal and external data sources, then?
BACKUP POLICY
First though, what essential information or facilities does a back- Nail the “posn” (position) or the map? Smartphone zombies will
up 66i at £500 offer that’s not reliably on the 276? Principally: 1. The be used to locking a screen before putting it away. Lock-
InReach satellite communication pre-written emergency alerts (not ing the posn triangle (essential) before pocketing or
available on the 276); 2. A new operating protocol (somewhat un- stowing a 700 30 times a day requires a very firm
welcome when you are operating the 276 on a different system at the pinch: middle finger and thumb, right hand, un-
same time); 3. A high price and a tiny hard-to-read map unsuited gloved, on the on/off button. Locked, and only
for automotive use (Garmin’s inReach-only devices are very small when locked, it will be safe from inadvertent
indeed, concentrate solely on emergency SOS transmissions and ex- swipes and slides that would move the map and
changes, and cost less than half a 66i). then set the position triangle roaming over and
The main function of your navigation backup (mooted here as a off the map.
66i) should be an accurate indication of your position. You should, of “Hands-off,” the default 700 screen, as with
course, be travelling with the best paper maps anyway. “Best” implying the 66i and 276, shows your position—a trian-
also the inclusion of latitude and longitude overlay or certainly a margin gular icon (let’s call it posn)—laterally central
markup. The eTrex10 (bottom right) is Garmin’s rock-bottom, (c.£90- and about 25 percent up from the bottom of the
100) waterproof, buttons-not-touchscreen, no-nonsense purveyor of
Touchscreen Montana 700i uses the latest Garmin operating
lat/long position data, and a simple monochrome base map. You can
Z`Z[LT:L]LUPUHYV^[V\JOPJVUZHYLVUS`TPSSPTL[LYZ^PKL[VVÄKKS`MVY
generate target waypoints and get a straight-line bearing and distance wheeled users. “Posn” (triangular icon) shows your position: default shown
to the one you select. This is fundamental backup stuff: i.e., where you here lower centre, as map moves under it. inReach antenna is top right.
are plus bearing and distance to where you want to go.
The eTrex 10 doesn’t have a magnetic compass or barometric sen-
sor (with their attendant errors), but above walking speed, you will
get a compass heading generated from external satellite data—more
accurate in that magnetic variation (often also termed declination) is
not involved. And as already mentioned, this lurking compass error
is a whacking 20-25° in Southern Africa. It matters—a lot. Maps on
the tiny eTrex screens, around 35 x 44 millimeters, are not going to
contribute much if you have dead-accurate satellite-based lat/long
positions on a 276 and good paper maps.
Thus your preferred safety backups, an eTrex and a tiny inReach
unit (50 percent of the cost of a 66i), should be kept somewhere safe
and accessible in the wagon. Check them regularly to make sure the
batteries are still happy, and the lat/long the eTrex shows agrees with
the 276Cx.
Kick dust, politely raise a little hell with Garmin for any failures,
but don’t dismiss the units as totally unreliable. Consider the data
source, usage, and your all-important, essential stash of paper maps.
The 276Cx powered mount is (a minor masterpiece) connected to the vehi-
cle’s electrical system. Car or bike, a grub-screw-lockable clip with spigots
;/,.(9405:5,>,920+:65;/,)36*2 ZLJ\YLZ[OLZPTT\UL[V]PIYH[PVUHUKHU`SPNO[ÄUNLYLKWHZZLYZI`
Why all this about a product regarded by some as superseded by
more up-to-date units? The 276Cx, only recently matched in Garmin’s
product range by the Montana 700 series for carefully judged size, leg-
ibility, and versatility, is well suited for dash/handlebar mounting in
cars, 4x4s, motorcycles, and bicycles and can be removed fully charged
off its power-mount in the 4x4 for use on foot in the misty hills.
Even more important and unique, the 276, unlike the Montana
700s, not only has a useful dashboard of parameters but is controlled
by buttons, not a touchscreen. Yes, buttons, not a temperamental 31
touchscreen. You know touchscreens: touch it once, check it (Oh,
damn!), touch it again, etc, etc., (eyes off the road). And, of course, the
usual unbidden changes due to an inadvertent brush. “Good heavens!
What happened to the display?”
In truth, while the 700 units are brilliantly versatile, they are com-
plex and, in their attempt to overfill the facilities basket, are over-
laden with trivia like “nearest café.” Touchscreens, with their demand
for concentration, delicate control, and checking, are incompatible The impact “g” was high enough to dislodge the micro-SD card. Battery out,
with driver use on any road, much less in 4x4 negotiating tracks. snick it back, all OK. Impressive. | Right: Basic backup data for just £80.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 screen. As you move, the posn stays where it is, and the map moves
underneath—normal operation. This will still be the case when
you have locked the posn triangle. To lock the posn icon: one very
careful click of the on/off button on 700s; you can also take your
chances with a swipe in Home mode; it’s a one-finger swipe-down
from the very top of the screen, then hit the padlock icon as the
next screen appears. Remember all that? Damn! That rock!)
If you want to take a peek at the map a little bit off what’s on
the screen, you can move the (unlocked) display. In the buttoned
66i and 276, this is done by using the tiny white arrows that sur-
round the central button. Unambiguous. On the 700 series, you
move the map, deliberately or accidentally, by touch-dragging it,
smartphone style. Where before, the map moved under the posi-
tion triangle; from now on, the map is stationary, and your posn
moves over the map, i.e., the system is “inverted.”
Left unattended as you later move, the triangle can then disap-
pear off the screen, and, especially if you have executed some sharp
turns, you will not know where to look for the position marker.
Recovering normal operation is simple but (you guessed?) not cov-
ered in the manual: hit “Quit” on 276/66i, “Back” button lower left
on 700s.

700 SERIES MAPS AND THE BOTTOM LINE

Detailed graphics of Montana 750i map (top) beat OSGB 1:50k on 276, but
overall ergonomics of 700 series are unsuited to automotive use. (‘Posn’
Selecting one of your onboard maps is conceptually simple so
= triangular icon: your position.) Both screens here shown in static-map- long as you know how. To keep you on your toes, the slide switches
moving-posn mode (see text). that appear to select the map you want would be interpreted by
most viewers as being upside down; i.e., a white blob down actually
1
equals switch off; de-select! If you feel that deep hypnosis and a
three-week residential course are looming in order to get the mea-
sure of this undoubtedly clever device, you wouldn’t be far wrong.
Either way, despite the spread of facilities it offers, many of
them superfluous in the context of remote region expeditions, the
touchscreen 700 series cannot be recommended for automotive use.
Pray for a Mk.2 functionally and ergonomically updated 276Cx but
use the existing version for now in
2
your 4x4 (buttons for expeditions,
not touchscreens), plus a simple,
inexpensive eTrex for backup, and
a little stand-alone inReach stashed
away for emergencies.
Two cases (the 700s): 1. An accidental (or
intentional) screen touch on its own will
freeze the map. Then, as you move, your
position triangle will move over it and even-
[\HSS`VɈ[OLZJYLLU;V\JO[OL¸)HJR¹PJVU 3
and normality is restored. Best to default-
lock the screen (3, right): the triangle is
nailed, the map moves underneath as nor-
mal. 2. You want to see terrain not showing
32 on screen; maybe set a waypoint. Drag the
map to the area of interest. To set a waypoint there, tap the spot. A red pin appears, and
the box shows terrain type. Tap it for lat/long of the pin. To revert to the original screen,
hit “Back.” This also removes the pin. The same issues apply to a 276 but not through
an accidental touch.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 Nepal’s Upper Mustang
Forbidden kingdoms and massive mountains bring big magic.

By Lisa Morris
Photography by Jason Spafford
 SEQUESTERED IN ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST STRIK-
ING SHANGRI-LA CORNERS, north of the Annapurna
mountain range, Upper Mustang is Nepal’s last vestige
of the Tibetan empire. The people of Thakali, Gurung, and
Tibetan origin keep their cultures and customs devoutly
alive, practicing mainly Buddhism in its purest form and
conducting sky burials, courtesy of the vultures, among
other rituals and festivals. Falling into the past, we trekked
through remote Himalayan villages dating back 600 years,
V]LYUPNO[PUNPUT\KÅVVYLK¸[LHOV\ZLZ¹[OH[LTHUH[LKH
hole-in-the-ground rustic charm. We reached as far north
as the Last Forbidden Kingdom of Lo Manthang, the walled
city that served as the controlling trade junction between
the Himalayas and India centuries ago.
“Big” was how a friend described the terrain to us be-
forehand. The unfolding landscapes were indeed remi-
niscent of the high-elevation steppe of the Argentinean
Andes, the parched but mineral-rich Grand Canyon, Ice-
land’s dark, dramatic peaks, and even the lush Scottish
Highlands at times. While our limbs recovered nightly
from the oh-sweet ache, we stayed humble to the di-
verse Tibetan plateau on which we rambled.
>PUKZJ\SW[LKJSPɈZHUKZHUKZ[VULWPSSHYZHYLOVTL[V
the man-made Sky Caves that once housed a civilisa-
tion of prehistoric settlers. Buddhist chortens (shrines)
and opulent monasteries are nestled below sharp ridge-
lines stretching scallop-like to a high-desert horizon. It’s
H KLZVSH[L SHUK [OH[ [PTL MVYNV[ [OL Z[\Ɉ VM L]LY` \U-
daunted trekker’s dream.
Despite not having hoofed it at this elevation and endur-
ing distance previously, we devised an ambitious 105-
mile through-hike, slated to take us from Kagbeni in the
valley of the Kali Gandaki River to the Shija Jhong Caves
of Chhoser, close to the Chinese border. Gratefully, our
N\PKL:HYRPHNYLLKUV[VUS`[VRLLW\ZVɈ[OLI\Z`YVHK
and map out a circuitous bang-for-our-buck route but
also, during the journey, lead us on a lesser-trod path
for three days, wild trekking from Lo Manthang to Chhu-
ZHUN6\YLɈVY[ZKPKU»[NV\UYL^HYKLK0[^HZ[OLTVZ[
impactful part of the trip due to the full sensory experi-
38 ence of a region that takes your breath away. In the wild
yonder, imposing peaks scraped the sky. The landscape
was serenity itself.
From Pokhara, we accessed the restricted region by
chartering a jeep on a rough and often narrow 4WD
track. The adventure was soon underway as our ride
bore witness to multiple landslides gushing down from
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
the mountaintops, building strength to wipe out what-
ever stood in its path—perilously commonplace in the
prolonged rainy season.
Fortunately, dampened spirits are a foreign concept to
the locals. The landlocked country has an entirely native,
OLHY[^HYTPUN HUK O\THU VɈLYPUN! P[Z ¸IYHUK ZTPSL¹
The inhabitants’ expressions beam unwaveringly despite
spending hours lugging water, foraging grass for cattle,
HUKML[JOPUN`HRK\UNH[YHKP[PVUHSIPVM\LSMVYÄYLZ(M[LY
we rescued an abandoned calf on our penultimate day,
carrying it down an abrupt 2,300-foot scree-covered de-
scent, and reunited it with the mother cow in Chhusang,
the farmer thanked us in the Nepalese way. She cupped
our hands individually in hers to her forehead and bowed
with gratitude, nourishing my heart.
Further through-treks in the Nepalese Himalayas look
promising on the horizon, although it’s hard to know
how they will compare with Upper Mustang. Aside from
the Khumbu region near Everest, there are exploration
options in Langtang, Manaslu, and Upper Dolpo. The
tropical expanse of the foothills is perhaps the country’s
best-kept secret. Some places have still never felt the
press of a foreigner’s foot. And then there are the elusive
Raute and Janajati, heralded as the last nomads and
known for subsistence hunting of macaque and langur
TVURL`Z;OLYL»ZZVT\JO[VZLLRHUKÄUK
Nepal should continue to dream big. Its image should
rightfully revolutionise from being known as a small, de-
veloping country in southern Asia to one that is future-
facing, graced with a youthful vibrancy supplemented by
a diversity of over 100 cultures. It will cost stakeholders
serious investment and more lifetime than I have left to
do any justice in seeing everything below Nepal’s im-
probable skyline—wide and trackless with the promise
of glory present since time immemorial.
(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT)
TRAVERSING THE DHECHYANG KHOLA
VALLEY, THE PATH UNFURLED, REVEALING
BREATHTAKING VISTAS OF THE HIMALA-
YAS. WE PICKED OUR WAY OVER THE
RIVERBANK AND KEPT A KEEN EYE OUT
FOR SHALIGRAMS, AMMONITE FOSSILS
CHARACTERIZED BY THEIR BLACK
COLOURATION.
DEPARTING LO MANTHANG ON A REST DAY,
WE EMBARKED ON A THREE-HOUR HIKE
ALONG A DUSTY DIRT ROAD TO REACH THE
RENOWNED MAN-MADE SKY CAVES WITHIN
CHHOSER VILLAGE. PERCHED UPON A
LOFTY CLIFF, THE CAPTIVATING SHIJA
JHONG CAVES TRACE THEIR ORIGINS
BACK APPROXIMATELY 3,000 YEARS.
(OPENING SPREAD)
THE KALI GANDAKI RIVERBED GRACE-
FULLY MEANDERED BEFORE US AS A
39
FLAT, STONY PLAIN. SPLITTING INTO
MULTIPLE CHANNELS AND CONVERGING
AGAIN, 0;>6=,05;90*(;,7(;;,95:
OVER THE LANDSCAPE.

WE TRUDGED SLOWLY ALONG THE TRAIL MONSOON LANDSLIDES POSE A SIGNIFI-

ON THE CHALLENGING ASCENT TO NYI
LA—A RUGGED PATH OF STONE AND
DIRT, OCCASIONALLY PUNCTUATED BY
PLAYFUL BOULDERS. WE STUMBLED
UPON A PRIVATE COLLECTION OF IMPEC-
CABLY PRESERVED SHALIGRAMS AND
ACQUIRED THESE TWO.
CANT THREAT TO BOTH LOCAL COMMUNI-
TIES AND VISITORS. ON OUR RIDE TO KAG-
BENI’S TRAILHEAD, THE DEAFENING ROAR
6-3(5+:30+,05+<*,+>(;,9-(33:
ECHOED THROUGH THE VALLEY, A STARK
REMINDER OF OUR VULNERABILITY AGAINST
NATURE’S RAW AND RELENTLESS POWER.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT)
40 ALONE ON THE DUSTY ROADS BETWEEN
LO MANTHANG AND CHHOSER, A WOMAN
CARRIED A DOKO. METICULOUSLY CRAFT-
ED, THE CONICAL BAMBOO BASKET IS A
VESSEL FOR TRANSPORTING GOODS, A
SYMBOL OF SUSTENANCE AND LIVELI-
HOOD, AND A REMINDER OF THE SIM-
PLICITY OF DAILY RHYTHMS.
FROM SEPTEMBER TO OCTOBER, KAGBENI
IS RENOWNED FOR THE SACRED PERIOD
OF PITRU PAKSHA. THE LOST SOULS OF
THE FOREFATHERS ARE RECOVERED
FROM THE DEPTHS OF HELL AND
:;,,9,+;6>(9+;/,*,3,:;0(3
REALMS, BESTOWING BLESSINGS
UPON THE ENTIRE FAMILY.
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
UPPER MUSTANG’S LONG FOOTBRIDGES
ARE ENGINEERING MARVELS THAT SPAN
GREAT DISTANCES OVER DEEP CHASMS
AND ROARING RIVERS. THESE AWE-IN-
SPIRING STRUCTURES SERVE AS VITAL
LIFELINES, CONNECTING FAMILIES,
FRIENDS, AND NEIGHBOURING COMMUNI-
TIES BETWEEN REMOTE VILLAGES.
IN THE STREETS OF LO MANTHANG, AN
ELDERLY NEPALESE WOMAN SHOULDERS
AN IMMENSE BURDEN OF GRASS FOR
HER BELOVED DONKEYS IN A QUIET
ACT OF DEVOTION.
AMIDST THE TIMEWORN STONES AND
WEATHERED WALLS OF AN OLD TEMPLE IN
LO MANTHANG, A MASTIFF FOUND SOLACE
AND COMPANIONSHIP, EMBODYING THE
SPIRIT OF LOYALTY AND GUARDIANSHIP.
THE STREETS WERE A TAPESTRY OF WELL-
WORN PATHS, THEIR SURFACES TRODDEN
UPON BY COUNTLESS FEET OVER THE
AGES. THE FADING LIGHT CAST ENCHANT-
ING SHADOWS ON THE OLD FACADES,
ACCENTUATING THE LABYRINTH OF HID-
DEN NOOKS AND INTRICATE DETAILS.
(OPPOSITE)
THESE VERDANT FIELDS POPPED IN CON-
TRAST TO THE ARID LANDSCAPE, PAINT-
ING AN UNEXPECTED SCENE AGAINST THE
HIMALAYAN BACKDROP.
42

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

THE AWE-INSPIRING TREK THAT WOUND FROM
YARA TO TANGGE REVEALED UNTAMED BEAUTY,
6--,905.(405+-<3.3047:,05;6(>693+
>/,9,;04,/(::;66+:;033 AS REMARK-
ABLE ADVENTURES BY FOOT PERPETUALLY
BECKONED.
(OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT)
AGE-OLD ENGRAVINGS ON STONES ADORNED
THE REVERED CHORTEN SITES. AMIDST THE
SERENE LANDSCAPES AND TOWERING PEAKS,
THESE INSCRIPTIONS SERVE AS A PORTAL TO
A BYGONE ERA, PRESERVING THE WISDOM AND
ASPIRATIONS OF THOSE WHO CAME BEFORE.
THE CHORTEN’S WEATHERED EXTERIOR TOLD
TALES OF PILGRIMS WHO HAVE SOUGHT SOLACE
AND ENLIGHTENMENT FROM WITHIN ITS WALLS
THROUGH PRAYER. SUCH LITANIES CANNOT
BE STATIC IF THEY ARE TO MAKE IT TO THE
HEAVENS. LIKE SPINNING A PRAYER WHEEL,
ONE MUST ALWAYS ORBIT THESE SANCTUARIES
CLOCKWISE.
THESE TIBETAN INSCRIPTIONS CONVEY OUR DRIVER, WHO CALLED HIMSELF THE
PRAYERS, MANTRAS, AND VERSES, ACTING “OFF-ROAD KING,” DIDN’T SEEM FAZED AS
AS GUARDIANS OF SPIRITUAL ENERGY WITHIN HE NEGOTIATED THE MUDDY SLIP-AND-SLIDE
THE HOLY CHORTENS, INVITING US TO JOIN TRACK LITTERED WITH FALLEN BOULDERS
IN THE COLLECTIVE HARMONY OF THE AND LOOSE ROCKS. 7(9;:6-;/,90.>,9,
SACRED SPACE. OBLITERATED ALTOGETHER UPON REACHING
OUR END DESTINATION. 43
VIBRANT STRIPES GRACED THIS CHORTEN’S
OUTER WALLS, PAINTED IN VIVID RED, WHITE,
BLUE, AND YELLOW HUES THAT REPRESENT
ELEMENTS OF BUDDHIST SYMBOLISM, CON-
VEYING BLESSINGS, PROTECTION, AND
SPIRITUAL ASPIRATIONS.
SHIJA JHONG CAVES IN CHHOSER WERE
RECENTLY DISCOVERED IN THE LAST 30-40
YEARS AND CONTAIN THE REMAINS OF TIME-
HONOURED AND SURPRISINGLY DIVERSE CUL-
TURES THAT USED THE MUSTANG REGION AS
A SALT AND RICE TRADE ROUTE. UTILIZED AS
+>,3305.:@,(9:(.6;/,09690.
05(37<976:,>(:-69)<90(3
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
44

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

PRAYER BEADS, OR MALA, ARE TANGIBLE TOOLS
FOR COUNTING AND FOCUSING PRAYERS. TYPI-
CALLY, EACH BEAD REPRESENTS A MANTRA,
A SACRED SYLLABLE, OR A DEITY. THE REPETI-
TION OF 6б4(е07(+4,/ǿб THE VOCALISA-
TION OF THE FIVE ELEMENTS OF EARTH, WATER,
FIRE, WIND, AND AIR OR SKY, CULTIVATES MIND-
FULNESS DURING PRAYER AND MEDITATION.
(OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT)
EMBARKING ON THE TRAIL TOWARDS TANGGE,
WE FOUND OURSELVES ON A PATH THAT WOUND
THROUGH ARID VALLEYS. THE TERRAIN AP-
PEARED AS IF IT HAD MELTED, YET ITS TEXTURE
WAS FIRM, WITH SMOOTH SURFACES AND JAG-
GED EDGES. SCATTERED ACROSS ITS EXPANSE
WERE NUMEROUS CAVES, OFFERING INTRIGUE
AND SHELTER.
STUMBLING UPON ANCIENT MONASTERIES THAT
CLUNG TO THE MOUNTAINSIDES, WE TOOK A
MOMENT TO SOAK IN THE ATMOSPHERE AT GHAR
GOMPA, AN 8TH-CENTURY EXAMPLE BUILT BY
GURU RINPOCHE, WHO FOUNDED NYINGMA,
THE OLDEST TIBETAN BUDDHIST TRADITION.
UPPER MUSTANG’S LANDSCAPE IS DOTTED
>0;/:0473,+>,3305.:;/(;,4)9(*,;/,
,::,5*,6-()9<;(3@,;/(946506<:>(@
OF LIFE. THESE HUMBLE ABODES, BUILT WITH
ROCKS, CLAY, AND WOOD, DEMONSTRATE THE
UNIQUE CULTURAL HERITAGE AND RESILIENCE
OF THE PEOPLE WHO CALL THIS REGION HOME.
AS WE ASCENDED HIGHER ON THIS DAY, THE
VISTAS BEGAN TO OPEN OUT, SHOWCASING A
PANORAMA THAT CAPTURED THE ESSENCE OF
THE HIMALAYAS. THE INTERPLAY OF LIGHT AND
:/(+6>*9,(;,+(+(5*,6-,=,9*/(5.-
ING HUES, PAINTING A CANVAS OF EXTRAORDI-
45
NARY BEAUTY.
THE PATTERNS WOVEN INTO THIS TRADITIONAL
DRESS FABRIC SYMBOLISE THE CONNECTION
),;>,,5;/,>,(9,9(5+/,9/,90;(.,
INSPIRED BY THE SURROUNDING NATURAL
WORLD, THE VIBRANT CLOTH BROUGHT A
BURST OF COLOR TO THE SCENE.
SEVERAL METRES IN HEIGHT, THESE MAGNIFI-
CENT AND ORNATELY ADORNED PRAYER WHEELS
ACT AS POWERFUL CONDUITS FOR PRAYERS
AND BLESSINGS. ;6:705(79(@,9>/,,3
05=62,:;/,76>,96-;/,79(@,9:(5+
MANTRAS INSCRIBED UPON ITS FACADE.
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
46

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

(OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT)
UPON REACHING EACH DAY’S REST-
ING PLACE, A SENSE OF ACCOM-
PLISHMENT WASHED OVER US. THE
THROUGH-TREK WAS A PILGRIMAGE
OF THE SPIRIT, A LAND VOYAGE
THAT TRANSCENDED THE PHYSI-
CAL REALM AND TOOK US ON A
TRANSFORMATIVE ADVENTURE.
THE TREK FROM YARA TO TANGGE
WAS NOT WITHOUT ITS CHALLENGES
AND DEMANDED DIG-DEEP PHYSICAL
ENDURANCE AND A SPIRIT OF ABSO-
LUTE WILLINGNESS. BUT >0;/,(*/
3()6<9,+:;,7;/,9,>(9+:
MULTIPLIED.
ONE CHARMING CHARACTER WE
MET IN THE WALLED CITY OF LO
MANTHANG HAD A FACE FULL OF
YEARS AS WRINKLED AS AGED
LEATHER. WE DIALLED INTO THE
PRIDE HE TOOK IN HIS STEAM-
PUNK-LOOKING GLASSES FROM
1942, THE YEAR IMPRINTED ON ONE
OF THE SIDES, FURTHER ADDING
TO THEIR ALLURE.
THESE INNOCENT SOULS ADORNED
IN CRIMSON ROBES LOOKED OUT
6-*<906<:,@,:),:;6>05.
<:>0;/9(+0(5;:403,:+,:70;,
THEIR TENDER AGE, THEY EMBOD-
IED A PROFOUND DEDICATION TO
THEIR SPIRITUAL PATH, IMBIBING
THE TEACHINGS OF BUDDHISM.
THESE ANCIENT RUINS NEAR
CHHOSER LAY SHROUDED IN MYS-
TERY, THEIR WEATHERED REMANTS
STANDING AS SILENT OBSERVERS
TO THE PASSAGE OF TIME. BEAR-
ING THE MARKS OF CENTURIES,
THEIR ERODED FACADES HINT
OF PAST GRANDEUR.
ON THE TREK’S FINAL LEG, WE
DISCOVERED AN INERT TWO-DAY-
OLD CALF ABANDONED BY ITS
MOTHER. DETERMINED TO HELP,
>,,4)(92,+65(.9<,305.
KILOMETER-LONG DESCENT
+6>5366:,:*9,, AS SARKI,
OUR GUIDE, CARRIED THE FRAGILE
CREATURE. A COMPASSIONATE
FARMER IN CHHUSANG CARED
FOR THE CALF TEMPORARILY,
UNTIL IT COULD BE REUNITED 47
WITH ITS MOTHER THE NEXT DAY.
WE FOUND A HEARTH CRACKLING
WITH FIRE INSIDE THIS DWELL-
ING’S WALLS, WHERE A FAMILY
GATHERED TO SHARE STORIES
AND NOURISH THEIR BODIES WITH
WARM MEALS. THE FRAGRANCE
OF JUNIPER INCENSE LINGERED,
*(99@05.>0;/0;(:,5:,6-
TRANQUILITY.
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
 Stow It
Find out which class-leading
exterior hard storage cases stood
up to our rigorous testing.
49

By Chris Cordes

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 S ome people have an innate ability to learn
their lessons from the wise words and ex-
periences of others. As I gazed at the half-empty
plastic storage case on my roof with a bewildered
stare, I couldn’t help but wish I was one of those
people. How long had it been open? For 10 miles, 30,
100? It was impossible to say. Remnants of the
broken front latch still clung to the box, shattered
by whatever debris had hit it at 75 mph. Inside, I
observed the sad and soggy array of my remaining
damp clothes and camp supplies that still clung to
the bottom of the bin. Everything else was gone,
and if I wanted it back, I’d need to backtrack. My
stomach churned as I did the math. It could have
happened anywhere between here and my last
fuel stop nearly 200 miles ago. In the middle of
the night, during a West Texas storm, that was 200
miles too many.
Losing half my supplies on a cross-country trip
was a hard lesson as a college student, but it’s one I
have never forgotten. It changed how I saw cargo
cases, from just a box to throw stuff into to a criti-
cal barrier between the environment and the items
we count on. After all, losing a few rock band shirts
and some Walmart camp gear is just a funny story,
but the loss of emergency equipment in a winter
storm or critical supplies on a backcountry trip
wouldn’t be a laughing matter. If you’ve got sup-
plies worth protecting, sometimes “good enough”
just isn’t. Over the years, I’ve tried and tested all
shapes and sizes of cases to find the best results.
I’ve found a few I love, but the number of purpose-
built options today is greater than ever before. I’m
making my cargo case crusade official, pitting a se-
lection of the best models head to head to see how
they stack up.
CONSIDERATIONS
Storage cases come in a seemingly endless ar-
ray of shapes, sizes, and materials to suit various
purposes, from those of world travelers to week-
end warriors. To keep the test focused on compa-
rable products and provide the most value to the
reader, the category was narrowed to cases that en-
dure the most abuse and harbor the largest poten-
tial risk to your personal property should a failure
occur: exterior storage boxes.
When making selections for the test, we start-
ed by only choosing models that were marketed as
exterior-rated storage cases for outdoor use. We
then attempted to keep their sizes as close to 25 x
15 x 10 inches as possible to eliminate any inher-
ent advantages when stress testing. A long, narrow
box will respond differently to an impact than a
cube, while a foot has more leverage on a wider top
to bend the surface.
Internal volume, or how much equipment can
be stored in a case, was an important criterion.
Both the shape and the
thickness of the walls The Space
can increase durability ,MÄJPLUJ`9H[PV
while decreasing stor- ;OLKPɈLYLUJLIL[^LLU
age capacity. Combining the external size of the
the two, we get one of box and the internal
the most critical factors storage capacity.
in the test, the space ef-
Ideally, internal and
ficiency ratio, which is
external dimensions
the difference between should be as close
the external size of the as possible without
box and the internal ZHJYPÄJPUNZ[YLUN[O
storage capacity. Scores or durability.
could theoretically range
from 0 percent (least space efficient) to 100 per-
cent (perfect space efficiency). Ideally, internal and
external dimensions should be as close as possible
without sacrificing strength or durability.
Next, we looked at water and dustproofing.
A storage case should protect its contents from
the elements; otherwise, mold, rot, and grit can
quickly deteriorate items within. Like many prod-
ucts, cargo boxes are rated on the ingress protec-
tion (IP) scale. The first digit represents protection
from the incursion of solid elements ranging from
1, indicating protection from large objects such as
a hand, to 6, indicating protection against ingress
of any particulates, including dust. The second
number rates resistance against liquid incursion,
ranging from a 1 (protecting from water droplets) 51
to an 8 (protecting against prolonged submersion).
A chart is provided for reference, and all items that
carry a rating are denoted as such in their tests.
Availability and strength of lashing points
were next on the list. We looked at the number of
available tie-downs, the directions in which they
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

APACHE 9800 RIFLE CASE
>OPSL[OL(WHJOL KPKU»[Ä[[OLcriteria
for the main test, we felt it necessary to include it,
given its popularity in the market and undeniable
]HS\L;OPZYPÅLJHZLPZH]HPSHISL[OYV\NO/HYIVY-YLPNO[HUKOHZ
ILJVTLWVW\SHYK\L[VP[ZK\YHIPSP[`HɈVYKHIPSP[`HUKZSPTWYVÄSL
for roof racks.
could be used, their ability to withstand pressure, and whether
or not the lid could still be opened while the box was secured
to the vehicle. The ability to lock the box was an essential con-
sideration as well.
Durability is paramount for any box that could endure
a strike from a tree branch, be dropped off a vehicle, or be
used as a step or seat in camp. As noted previously, we tried
to stay with similar-sized models to eliminate any bias from
the structural shape, with one notable exception. The Harbor
Freight Apache was also included due to its popularity and
availability in the rifle case size. You’ll find it in a sidebar rath-
er than directly stacked against the others.
For exterior hard cases, it’s critical to evaluate the ease of
operation on a daily basis. Although it can be a broad category,
we considered factors like how easy the box is to open and
close and whether or not it can be performed with one hand.
Nothing is more frustrating than smacking your hand on the
rack when trying to close a box in cold weather or attempting

Exterior dimensions are 50.38 x 13.63 x 5.13 inches, and the

JHZLJHYYPLZHU07YH[PUNMVY^LH[OLYWYVVÄUN"P[WLYMVYTLK
among the best in the water and dust ingress tests, passing with
zero signs of leaks. The polypropylene shell is durable, with-
standing impact testing without issue and only bowing slightly
during the step test before returning to neutral with no damage.

;OPZK\YHIPSP[`HUK^LH[OLYWYVVÄUNJHTLH[[OLL_WLUZLVM
weight, though. At 22.7 pounds, this case is substantially heavier
than the others in the test, and the bulk is noticeable even when
carrying it around empty. Fortunately, integrated wheels help
when moving it between the vehicle and the house, but depend-
ing on the contents, the loaded weight can rise quickly due to
the large overall volume.

Features include lock channels, carry handles on the top and

ZPKLHUKZ[HUKHYKMVHTPU[LYPVYWHKKPUNMVYJ\Z[VTÄ[HWWSPJH-
tions, making it a good value, but
PROS there are some downsides to look
(ɈVYKHISL out for. For example, the metal
IP65 waterproof rating hardware will start to rust and bind
Wheels for rolling with with time, a lesson learned from
heavy load Chart courtesy of assured-systems.com
running two of these cases on my
CONS Sprinter van for a year. There are
Weight no lashing points, so you’ll need
52 Impractical for many to strap across the top of the case
storage uses or drill holes and bolt it down, and
No lashing points there’s no nesting design for stack-
Not stackable ing either—it’s a bit more work, all
[VSK;OL(WHJOL»ZÄUHSKYH^IHJR
is how thin they are. There’s a lot of length, but the 5-inch interior
height is extremely limiting once you start loading it, a real prob-
lem due to the large footprint it takes up.

$170 | HARBORFREIGHT.COM

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

to open it while one hand is holding the supplies you want
to put inside. Other considerations included whether or not a
box was prone to damage the interior of a vehicle, the comfort
of the handles (and if they can be gripped with a single hand),
and other niceties like internal storage organization, bottle
openers, and flat surfaces for use as a table or prep surface.

TESTING
The evaluation was designed around many real-world ex-
periences we’ve encountered with storage cases, subjecting the
items to simulated actions for wind, dust, and rain and then
working up to more damaging tests like accidental drops. We
structured the conditions to be as similar as possible each time
and worked our way up from tests that posed the least risk of
damage to the most. This setup ensured every case would un-
dergo the main tests in a “new” state before significant damage
occurred.

DURABILITY AND THE VERSATILITY of tie-down points were

tested first. We secured one side of the case with a ratchet
strap, applying pressure on the other side with a crane scale
until we saw a noticeable deformation or reached 150 pounds
of pressure. This test was performed vertically and then at an
angle to see how side loads were handled.

>(;,99,:0:;(5*,Next, we evaluated water resistance using

a standard hose with a spray nozzle to simulate heavy rains at
highway speeds. Each case was sprayed in upright, side, and
upside-down orientations and checked for leaks. Those which
allowed water incursion were then dried, and a second test
was repeated while the box was positioned upright with water
spraying from the sides to gauge water resistance under ideal
conditions.

DUST RESISTANCE was tested in two ways. First, we strapped

all the cases to an open flatbed trailer and hauled them down
dusty washes and backroads. We then brought the cases home
and used a leaf blower on low to swirl dust around them. Af-
terward, each was opened and wiped with a white cloth to de-
tect dirt and dust on the interior.
DEFORMATION Because many cases are removed and set
around camp, we’ve found that use as a chair or a step is com-
mon. To ensure they’re durable enough for use as a step, I
placed each one onto the ground and stepped on and off of the
center of the lid with my size-15 boot. We looked for defor-
mation and damage due to rocks and mud from the boot.
DROP TEST Finally, we subjected each model to a loaded drop
from a tailgate. They were packed with 56 pounds of sand-
bags and then dropped handles first onto their front corner
onto cement from several feet up. We then looked for signs of
cracking, difficulty opening or closing the latches, and wheth-
er or not they retained their seal.
Clockwise from top right: A crane scale was used in line with the strap
to gauge the pressure each storage box could handle on various tie-down
points. | The Plano Sportsman shows signs of bending and warping under
the pressure of our tie-down straps.| To ensure a realistic impact, the boxes
were pushed, not thrown, from the tailgate while loaded with 56 pounds of
sand weight. | The Dometic Go, showing signs of wear but holding strong
after all of our tests. | The Plano Sportsman’s shell cracked during the drop
[LZ[HM[LYMHSSPUNVUP[Z^OLLSHUK^HZ[OLVUS`JHZL[VMHPS[OPZZWLJPÄJL]HS\- 53
ation. | Cases were water tested under normal and extreme circumstances,
producing some surprising results. | The Front Runner Wolf Pack Pro show-
JHZLZP[Z^LH[OLYWYVVÄUNHNHPUZ[V\YWYPTHY`^H[LY[LZ[| A corner impact
represents the greatest chance for damage because it focuses the pressure
at one point, which is why we selected it for the drop test. | Opening page:
Gearing up for a morning ride with equipment kept dry and clean in our Yeti
LoadOut. Opposite: The Apache is durable and waterproof, but its dimen-
sions are awkward for many applications. | Circle: One major plus for the
Apache, besides its weather resistance, is the interior foam organizer which
prevents rattles and can keep sensitive gear protected.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 FRONT RUNNER | WOLF PACK PRO

F ront Runner’s Wolf Pack is one of the most well-known

options in the overland space. Like the brand’s other of-
ferings, it was made to thrive in the harsh environment of the
African bush. The Wolf Pack Pro is an improvement from the
original, with more durable and easier-to-operate components
and additional weatherproofing.
The Pro is available in just one size and is constructed from
black polypropylene. It’s designed to be lashed securely to a roof
with integrated strap channels, with a nesting lid and base that
feel solid even when stacking several cases high. Unfortunately,
the Pro does not stack with the original Wolf Pack, so you won’t
be able to mix and match. We noted that the base is prone to
pick up dirt when set on the ground; you’ll want to be careful
setting it down in mud.
The first change any Wolf Pack aficionado will notice on the
Pro is the latches. Gone are the plastic press-fit clasps that be-
came the bane of many travelers’ existence, substituted by larger
metal replacements, making opening and closing the box more
manageable but not struggle-free. You still need to open all four
latches and remove the lid to access gear, where other boxes
hinge open for easier access. The new weather seal can cause the
lid to pressurize against the latches when changing elevations,
making them difficult to open, so you’ll need to press on the
middle of the box to relieve pressure.
The tradeoff for this is its weather resistance, which proved
capable of withstanding light exposure to water and dust during
testing. It is not waterproof, though, as the box did leak under
the hose; we’d recommend caution if looking to store sensitive
items like electronics.
The Front Runner Wolf Pack Pro’s size and built-in nesting channels Durability was excellent, surviving both the drop and step
make it ideal for stacking inside a vehicle. | A major drawback for the tests with ease, showing little sign of damage and no functional
Wolf Pack Pro is the unhinged lid, which necessitates removing all four
latches and setting the lid aside.
issues after the fact. Front Runner achieved this durability while
keeping the box at just 8.1 pounds, the lightest option in our
test. To be fair, it was also the smallest, so the interior volume
PROS EXTERNAL DIMENSIONS per pound comes out as average. We’re okay with that, though,
,_[YLTLS`HɈVYKHISL 20.1 x 15.7 x 9.1 because the size makes it exceptionally easy to move when load-
Light yet sturdy >,0./; ed, and it ranks third in space efficiency. If storage capacity is a
Improved heavy-duty latches 8.1 pounds priority, you can add a 2.3-inch-taller Hi-Lid, which retains the
Compatible with a range of
SPACE EFFICIENCY ability to stack with other Wolf-Pack Pro boxes.
Front Runner accessories
54 64.4 percent The biggest selling point of the Wolf Pack Pro is its value,
CONS >,(;/,99(;05. which means you can likely buy enough boxes to organize all of
Need to open all four latches Water and dust resistant
your gear for the price of just one of the more expensive cases. If
to remove lid
No lock channels you’re looking for the most bang for your buck, look no further
Can’t open lid when strapped than the Wolf Pack Pro.
down
$80 | FRONTRUNNEROUTFITTERS.COM
Not fully waterproof
One size only

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

DOMETIC | GO HARD STORAGE 50L

D ometic’s offerings have expanded dramatically over

the years and now include everything from awnings
to camp chairs. But what has made them stand out recently
is the quality and features they’ve offered at a reasonable price
point, a tactic embodied by the Go 50-liter hard storage case
(Go HSC).
The Dometic comes in just one size, 50 liters, with a main
aluminum structure surrounded by a gray high-impact polymer
base and lid. This gives it an elegant look we’d be proud to have
on a vehicle while keeping the case light and durable. The total
weight comes in at 9.92 pounds, one of the lightest tested, and
it passed both the step and drop tests without issue, attesting to
its durability.
Using the Dometic Go on a daily basis, the flexible latches
were amongst the easiest to operate, requiring little effort and
giving you one-handed access to your gear. What surprised us
more was how effective they were at keeping the lid securely
closed when the case impacted the ground during the drop
test and their ability to retain a firm seal to prevent dust and
water ingress during weather-resistance evaluations. While the
Dometic had a minor leak during testing, we suspect it came
through a joint or rivet rather than the seal.
The base and lid nest together, and the contact points are
deep enough that multiple cases can be stacked on top of one
another without worrying about shifting during use. On the
sides of the Go HSC, you’ll find integrated lashing points for
straps that run separately from the lid itself. This allows for un-
inhibited access to cargo inside the box even when lashed down,
so you won’t have to resecure it to open it.
Dometic got creative by integrating tie-down channels with
Clockwise from top: The Dometic Go is not only one of the more holes for security locks and the carry handles in this same space.
attractive boxes, but its latches were also some of the easiest to open
and close. | A bottom free of nooks, crannies, and voids means it’s less
Each of these things worked well individually, but there could
susceptible to picking up mud and dirt in camp. | The built-in weather be hiccups when used together. If you need to lash a box down
seal does a good job of keeping contents dry and secure. | The hinge and lock it at the same time, the space can be very crowded. The
makes it easy to open the box and access goods without worrying bigger drawback was that integrating all of this into the same
about the lid.
location left something to be desired in structural integrity, as
during the lashing test, the tie-down points were prone to flex-
ing and bending. This had no impact during testing but would
PROS EXTERNAL DIMENSIONS
Easy-to-operate latches 23.08 x 17.57 x 12.29 inches give me pause if selecting this case for prolonged exterior use.
Lower price point >,0./; On shorter trips or trips where the box won’t be lashed per- 55
Accessible cargo when 9.92 pounds manently to the roof, the Dometic is a solid choice. It’s easy to
tied down
SPACE EFFICIENCY use, can be paired with an array of interior organizers and soft
Lightweight and portable
62.2 percent bags, and retails for half the price of the more expensive ones in
CONS >,(;/,99(;05. the test. It’s a great middle-of-the-road option for those looking
Integrated plastic lashing Water and dust resistant
to balance features and budget.
points are prone to bend
Not fully waterproof $150 | DOMETIC.COM
One size only

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 YETI | LOADOUT GO BOX 60 GEAR CASE

T he Yeti name has become synonymous with quality

to customers all over the world, but it shares an equal
association with expensive price tags. That has left a lot of us
wondering, are their LoadOut boxes worth the hype, or are they
coasting on the reputation of their coolers? I’ll be the first to ad-
mit I wasn’t sure, but after testing it, I can say without hesitation
that they’re worth every penny.
The LoadOut is made from their proprietary Defender
material, which they won’t say is unbreakable, but it seems to
be darn close based on the lack of damage it received during
the drop test. Structurally, we saw no impact, and the robust
hinge system and handles continued to operate smoothly. This
durability does come at a cost, and that’s weight and space ef-
ficiency. The Yeti tips the scales at 17.2 pounds for the 60-liter
size and ranks sixth for space efficiency in the evaluation, but
that’s where the bad news ends.
Years of producing industry-leading coolers means that Yeti
knows a thing or two about seals, which is likely why the Load-
Out carries the best rating of the test, an IP67 fully waterproof,
dustproof, and even submersible rating. If you need gear to stay
100 percent dry, this is your best bet.
Despite this amazing seal, the Lockdown Latches are some
of the easiest to operate in the test and can be utilized one-
handed. Their mid-hinge design must be used to be appreciated,
and it allows them to open with a light pull and lock back down
securely with equal ease. We were additionally impressed by the
LipGrip handles which were by far the most comfortable to
hold in the test and left us rarely using the included soft straps.
Organization comes standard with the Yeti, with an includ-
The LoadOut has a simple appearance, but its quality is obvious once ed Pack Attic zipper pocket organizer on the lid, a removable
you use it. | The included organization for the Yeti is one of the best in storage caddy, and a divider that can be pulled out to double as
the test, with a zipper pocket integrated into the lid, a divider in the box,
and a storage caddy that can be quickly put in or pulled out. a cutting board. The 60-liter model can fit up to three caddies
total and two dividers, the 30-liter can fit one divider and two
caddies, and the 15-liter can fit a single caddy. Importantly, all
PROS EXTERNAL DIMENSIONS three sizes can still stack together, as the 30- and 15-liter sizes
IP67 rated, dustproof, fully 30.0 x 14.8 x 13.4 inches occupy the same footprint as the 60-liter size, and the rubber
submersible >,0./; feet keep the boxes planted without shifting.
Easy-to-use latches and grips 17.2 pounds To make lashing even more manageable, these boxes can
Standard interior organizers
SPACE EFFICIENCY be strapped down using Yeti’s AnchorPoint tie-down channels,
and caddies
56.9 percent
Available in multiples sizes which provide a sturdy lashing point but also run beneath the
56 that still stack together >,(;/,99(;05.
lid retaining the ability to open the box for cargo access even
IP67
when the case is secured. Speaking of security, they include
CONS
Price multiple lock channels on the exterior that are stout enough to
Weight prevent theft.
The bottom line is that if you want no-compromise durabil-
ity to protect your gear from anything you throw at it, the Yeti
is going to be hard to beat.
$300 | YETI.COM

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

PELICAN | CARGO 80

P elican needs no introduction in the category of storage

Clockwise from top: The Pelican Cargo 80’s rugged looks are matched
by its durability and wealth of tie-down points. | A heavy-duty weather
seal is embedded into the case lid. | The steel latches were some of the
burliest in the test and featured integrated lock channels. | The Pelican
*HYNVVɈLYZHSV[VMMLH[\YLZI\[ZWHJLLɉJPLUJ`PZSVZ[K\L[VK\YHIPSP[`
PROS
Heavy-duty steel handles
and tie-down plates
:VSPK^H[LYHUKK\Z[WYVVÄUN
Available in many sizes
and shapes
Quick disconnect tie-down
kits available for racks,
truck beds, and interiors
CONS
Price
Heavy and lacks space
LɉJPLUJ`
Undersized integrated handles
Not stackable
space. They’ve defined it for decades, producing some of
the world’s leading gear protection choices for equipment rang-
ing from cameras and firearms to military computers. However,
they’ve recently pushed further into the off-road space with their
line of Cargo products, and there’s a lot to love.
Pelican designed the Cargo series as a purpose-built solution
for vehicle applications. Everything from the materials to the
mounting options is crafted for a life spent on the road. They’re
based on a roto-molded, UV-resistant, polyethylene body that is
impact resistant and equipped for temperatures ranging from -20°
to 140°F. Weather resistance proved excellent, passing the water
and dust tests without ingress and breezing through the drop test
like it was nothing more than an inconvenience, barely registering
any cosmetic damage.
The hardware is equally durable, including heavy-duty E-Coat-
ed steel latches that are smooth and easy to operate one-handed
in various types of weather. These latches feature integrated steel
lock channels to keep contents secure no matter where you wander.
Matching the latches, the sides of the case are equipped with E-
coated steel tie-down plates riveted into the body’s structure. These
can be used with a standard ratchet strap or interface with Pelican’s
quick-release vehicle mounts, which are crafted for a variety of ap-
plications, including vertical tie-downs for roof racks, side mounts
for truck beds, and interior lashing kits for cargo areas. This keeps
your box firmly in place on even the roughest trails while allow-
ing you to access contents or remove the case entirely in under 30
seconds. It’s worth noting that these mounts can interface with the
case’s locks, meaning you can not only secure the case but lock it
down to the mount itself.
Of course, we have to mention its looks. The Cargo 80 has a
presence, and its rugged lines and features would be equally at
home on the set of an action movie as they are on a vehicle. While
that shouldn’t be a deciding factor, if you’re planning on strapping
something to your four-wheel-drive vehicle, it might as well look
good, right?
EXTERNAL DIMENSIONS Our list of grievances for the 80 is short but no less relevant.
25 x 12.25 x 13.25 inches
First, all of the durability we mentioned comes at the cost of
>,0./;
weight and space efficiency. The Pelican is the heaviest box in the
19.3 pounds
test by nearly 4.5 pounds, and it’s the second to least space efficient
SPACE EFFICIENCY
with a ratio of 48.5 percent. If space or weight is limited in your ve- 57
48.5 percent
>,(;/,99(;05. hicle, that will be worth considering. The carry handles feel under-
Water and dust resistant sized for the bulk of the box, so if you’re regularly carrying the case
around, keep in mind that this one will be a bit more challenging.
Overall though, the Pelican Cargo 80, and the Cargo line as a
whole, are phenomenal storage boxes made to withstand a lifetime
of use on the exterior of a vehicle. We wouldn’t hesitate to choose
one for our next adventure.
$320 | PELICAN.COM

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 ALUBOX | ABA42
Clockwise from top:;OL(S\)V_VɈLYZK\YHISLJVYULYOHYK^HYLT\S-
tiple carry-points, locking latches, great looks, and is one of the lightest
boxes in the test. | The hinge is surprisingly strong. | The AluBox seal is
placed on the box itself rather than the lid. |:WHJLLɉJPLUJ`PZL_JLS-
SLU[VU[OL(S\)V_[OHURZ[VP[ZSV^WYVÄSLI\[Z[YVUNKLZPNU
PROS
3PNO[HUKZWHJLLɉJPLU[
Weather and bear resistant
Durable and secure stacking
hardware
Array of sizes and accessories
58 available
CONS
Price
Scratches are more apparent
Black marks and grit on cargo
without foam liner
Not entirely dust or waterproof
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
I f you’ve been around overlanding long, you’ll likely have
heard of AluBox. This privately owned family company
from Denmark has been producing quality aluminum cases for
25 years. Our team has been using them for the last decade,
resulting in long-term insights along with new findings to bring
to the table.
Let’s start with a big headline; the 42-liter AluBox is tied as
the most space-efficient box in the entire test with the Zarges.
At just 10 pounds with 77.5 percent space efficiency, it is one of
your best bets for making the most out of limited storage space
and payload. In itself, that’s enough of a reason to buy this case,
but there are plenty more.
The AluBox was designed for shipping and industrial use
and, accordingly, is available in just about every shape and size
you can think of. It features a precision-bent aluminum-ribbed
wall, extruded base and upper rim, and a lid protected by heavy-
duty aluminum corners, giving it some of the most durable and
stable stacking hardware in the test and enabling it to withstand
the step and drop evaluations. The aluminum construction pre-
vents corrosion, and it carries an IGBC certification for bear
resistance.
Weather resistance is good, but the AluBox is not water-
proof. During testing, limited dust particles were able to make
it into the case, and while it’s rated to protect against “splashes,”
exposure to a hose resulted in the ABA42 taking on a good deal
of fluid. These simulated conditions are rarely an issue in the
real world, but it’s worth noting because the AluBox did tend to
allow more water ingress than the Zarges.
One downside is that as the contents rub and shift against
the aluminum, it wears down, leaving black dust and marks on
your gear stored inside the box. We’d recommend padding or
a spray liner inside to eliminate this issue or one of the many
optional interior organizers available from Equipt Expedition
Outfitters. Additionally, because aluminum is a soft metal, it
tends to scratch easily; choose a bed liner or wrap for the exte-
rior to protect it if you find that bothersome.
EXTERNAL DIMENSIONS Otherwise, the AluBox is truly a joy to use on a daily basis.
21.5 x 13.5 x 8.65 inches The tie-down points grant you access to the interior even when
>,0./;
it’s lashed down, and the latches are straightforward to open in
10 pounds
any circumstance. Carrying the case using the two side handles
SPACE EFFICIENCY
is easy, but the third front handle for toting it around as a brief-
77.5 percent
case is a great touch and usually my preferred method.
>,(;/,99(;05.
IP54 The ABA42 is one of the best choices in the test for those
looking to maximize storage space while minimizing weight,
which is why it has become a crowd favorite among overlanders
the world over.
$355 | EQUIPT1.COM
ZARGES | K470 #40568

F or over 90 years, Zarges has been producing aluminum

products intended to “make everyday life easier.” What
started as a two-person business in Stuttgart, Germany, rapidly
expanded to one of the best-known storage case manufactur-
ers in the world. For decades, Zarges K470s have been used by
military forces, meeting stringent standards for extreme tem-
peratures and drop tests.
We tested the K470 #40568, designed for shipping where
every pound and inch of space counts. It comes as no surprise
then that this case is tied as the most space-efficient option with
the AluBox. The K470 weighs just over 10 pounds with a 77.5
percent space efficiency ratio, so when you’re limited on room
and payload, the Zarges is a superior option.
The Zarges cases are available in a wide array of sizes and
can be custom ordered to meet special requirements you may
have. They come standard in a raw aluminum finish but are also
offered in matte black, which looks great and can hide scratches
that are more apparent on the standard aluminum. Accessories
abound, including interior and lid organizers, bamboo and vinyl
toppers, along with locks, cables, and mounts to keep them se-
cured to your vehicle.
For daily life, Zarges cases are extremely user-friendly to
operate. The latches are stout but open and close with minimal
effort, and the lid is secured with two retaining straps to hold
it open when accessing cargo. The inclusion of the front handle
that permits the case to be carried like a briefcase is a great
benefit and further increases the effectiveness of transportation.
All three handles can be used with gloves on in cold weather.
The Zarges comes standard with an IP54 rating, meaning it
is protected against splashing water and dust. While it leaked
Clockwise from top: The Zarges K470’s features have been tested and during the hose test, it is worth mentioning that for an extra
proven for over nine decades, and it becomes evident why when you
use them. | The corner hardware improves durability and structure and
cost, cases can be upgraded to IP65 for protection against water
is designed to nest with other cases. | One of the Zarges K470’s few jets and to be dust tight.
weak points for water is the seam seen on the left side, but an internal As with all aluminum models, Zarges cases are not impervi-
bead of silicone can change that. | A retaining strap holds the case ous to the black dust that can transfer onto contents inside the
open for easy access to its contents.
box as they rub and shift against the aluminum. Foam liners
are available online to protect gear within the Zarges case, and
matte-black models may be a solution—both factors to address
PROS EXTERNAL DIMENSIONS
3PNO[HUKZWHJLLɉJPLU[ 22.95 x 15.28 x 9.72 inches in a future evaluation.
Weather and bear resistant >,0./; Durability proved exceptional, as the K470 soaked up our
Durable and secure stacking 10.5 pounds step and drop tests without sustaining damage, thanks to its
hardware cast-aluminum stacking corners and aluminum ribbed wall 59
SPACE EFFICIENCY
Array of sizes and accessories
77.5 percent structure. The cast corners make Zarges cases one of the most
available
>,(;/,99(;05. secure stacking options in the market by eliminating the shift-
CONS IP54, IP65 optional ing that occurs to many others when latched together.
Price The Zarges case is a leading performer in this evaluation,
Scratches are more apparent
Black marks and grit on cargo and it is easy to understand why the K470 line has been highly
without foam liner successful. If you can afford the price tag, it will serve you well
Not entirely dust or waterproof for countless adventures to come.
$388 | ZARGESUSA.COM

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 ROAM | RUGGED CASE 55L

R oam is one of the newest manufacturers on the mar-

ket, offering rugged and attractive cases in a myriad of
sizes and colors. Most people are undoubtedly drawn in by their
looks but wind up buying for their unique features and intuitive
vehicle mounting solutions.
We put the 55-liter model to the test, which weighs in at
15 pounds with a space efficiency ratio of 45.3 percent. That
makes it the least space efficient in this evaluation and one of
the heaviest options, but at $249, Roam aims to balance those
drawbacks with an abundance of features and performance at a
price that customers can afford.
The structure is a roto-molded, linear, low-density polyeth-
ylene shell that can withstand a serious beating in all sorts of
conditions. It breezed through step and drop testing without
damage and cleaned up to look almost new despite mud and
grit being dragged over the exterior surfaces. The latches are
coated steel and recessed behind the edge to prevent them from
rubbing against your vehicle’s interior or sustaining damage in
a drop. They operated easily, and the integrated locks were du-
rable and easy to access.
The box features integrated tie-down channels for straps,
which sit beneath the lid so the contents can be accessed even
when the case is lashed down. While there aren’t any designed
for the 55L yet, Roam offers rugged quick disconnect mounts,
making it easy to install and remove their cases from a vehicle
in a matter of seconds.
On the downside, Roam’s 55-liter case is not fully water-
tight. It passed the dust and light water tests easily, but when
exposed to a hose, it did leak a small amount. Again, this type of
water exposure would not often occur in real-world scenarios,
Clockwise from top: The Roam has a rugged and adventurous look
but it should be considered if you plan to transport anything
and packs practical features like recessed latches to prevent interior sensitive such as electronics or cameras.
damage and allow the cases to sit side by side. | The gas strut takes One of the more unique features of this case is the inte-
up some space, but will be well worth it when paired with the additional grated gas strut on the lid, which powers it open and holds it
weight of a lid organizer. | The Rugged case has durability in abun-
KHUJL I\[ [OL [V[HS PU[LYPVY ]LYZ\Z L_[LYPVY ZPaL TLHUZ P[ Z\ɈLYLK PU
for easy access to cargo. While this does take up some interior
ZWHJLLɉJPLUJ` space, it’s fantastic if you plan to pair the box with one of their
lid storage options like a MOLLE or zipper pouch organizer,
which are optimal for keeping items separate but do add weight.
PROS EXTERNAL DIMENSIONS Roam doesn’t stop there, though. They pack a few more
Packed with features and 25.2 x 14.39 x 14.1 inches standard features like nylon rope handles to augment the inte-
elective accessories >,0./; grated grab handles, a nesting top and bottom for stable stack-
Lots of tie-down options, can 15 pounds
60 ing, and even a bottle opener built right into the side. The result
be opened while secured
SPACE EFFICIENCY feels more like a storage system instead of a single item, and it
Wide range of sizes and colors
45.3 percent
Balanced price makes it an attractive choice for everything from kitchen and
>,(;/,99(;05.
Water and dust resistant medical kits to a go-box ready to toss into your vehicle when
CONS
Heavy you hit the road last minute. The Roam balances protection and
3LHZ[ZWHJLLɉJPLU[IV_PU features with value, making it a great choice for a wide array of
the test applications.
Not fully waterproof
$249 | ROAMADVENTURECO.COM

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

PLANO | SPORTSMANɔS TRUNK
;OL:WVY[Z[THUVɈLYZIPN]HS\LMVY`V\YTVUL`PU[V[HSZ[VYHNLJHWHJ-
ity. |;OL[OPU^HSSZZOV\SKOH]LTHKL[OLJHZLMHPYS`ZWHJLLɉJPLU[I\[
the exterior design gave it an unnecessarily large footprint.
PROS
(ɈVYKHISL
Roller wheels for ease of
movement when loaded
Highest storage-to-weight
ratio of the test
CONS
4H[LYPHSZHSSV^MVYÅL_PU[OL
body, prone to breaking
Thin hardware, prone to
breaking
Latches and lid must be
removed to access cargo
Not dust or waterproof
S electing quality gear that’s intended for off-road use
can be vital for many trips, but if you need to sacrifice
the money required for the actual travel portion to buy that
equipment, it’s time to look at different options. That’s where
the Plano Sportsman’s trunk comes in.
At just $50, it’s by far the most affordable model evaluated
and provides the largest storage volume at one of the lowest
weights, 10 pounds. This gives it the distinct privilege of of-
fering the most storage volume per pound in the evaluation.
The case is only available in one size, and space efficiency isn’t
great at 52.8 percent, but it’s not the worst in the test either.
These factors make it an attractive choice for those looking
to store goods that don’t need to be entirely protected from
dust and water.
I place that caveat in there because this case offers the
least protection in our test. It allowed dust and water ingress
in both evaluations, and when exposed to the hose test, the
interior started looking more like a lake than a storage case.
Thanks to the tougher reinforced lid, it did pass the step test,
albeit with some wobbling. But due to the thin-walled plastic
structure, it was the only case to fail the drop test—a crack
forming in the corner after impact. Cold temperatures would
further increase its chances of breaking.
The same can be said for the plastic latches, which felt
flimsy, and would likely wear and break with extended use.
All four latches must be opened and the lid removed to access
gear, an inconvenience compared to a hinged design.
The Sportsman was the only model to cause concern dur-
ing the lashing test. The tie-down points on the sides really
aren’t secure and would allow for the straps to slip off under
a side load in an off-camber obstacle. They bend under load,
which is why we’d recommend securing this case with straps
over the top, too, if you plan to use it on the roof of a vehicle.
Still, the Sportsman does offer nice features. Due to its
EXTERNAL DIMENSIONS
37.25 x 14 x 18 inches
size, the trunk can accommodate a lot of gear which means
>,0./;
additional weight, so the integrated wheels make it much
10 pounds easier to move around and slide into position. There are chan-
nels for locks next to the handles, and the structure of the box
SPACE EFFICIENCY
52.8 percent includes nesting elements on the lid and base for stacking.
>,(;/,99(;05. All things considered, the Sportsman wouldn’t be the
Water and dust resistant storage case we’d recommend to everyone. Still, if you just
need affordable organization, especially if it will be inside a 61
covered truck bed or interior space, this is a solid solution for
an unbeatable price.
$50 | PLANOOUTDOORS.COM
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
 EXPEDITION 134 | 55L BOX
Clockwise from top: The Expedition 134 produced some of the best
YLZ\S[Z PU [OL [LZ[ ^P[O SV^WYVÄSL HUK \UHZZ\TPUN SVVRZ ZVTL[OPUN
that can work to your advantage when traveling. | Its latches are initially
KPɉJ\S[[VVWLYH[LI\[[OL`^LHYPUHUKVɈLYPU[LNYH[LKSVJRJOHUULSZ
| The narrowed base of the box works well for shipping and stacking,
I\[P[TLHUZHSVZZVMZWHJLLɉJPLUJ`
PROS
Water and dustproof
Durable and corrosion resistant
Ability to open the lid while
secured to a vehicle
62
Lightweight
CONS
3H[JOLZHYLKPɉJ\S[[VVWLYH[L
Sloped nesting design means
SVZ[ZWHJLLɉJPLUJ`
Uninspiring aesthetic and lack
of accessories and features
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
T he Expedition 134 is a newer entry to the US market-
place. Like many of our most-beloved products, it’s de-
signed and manufactured in Australia to survive the long dusty
roads of the bush and salt-water-sprayed beaches of its coasts.
The outcome is a no-frills storage box made to endure extreme
conditions.
The 134 is made from a proprietary impact-resistant mate-
rial that reminds me a lot of the legendary durability of Max-
Trax. This allowed it to pass the step and impact tests without
flinching while still weighing in as the second lightest option
at 8.7 pounds. However, it does offer 73 percent more storage
than the lightest case, giving it a far better storage volume per
pound ratio.
To prevent corrosion, no metal components were used, and
the lid and base are designed with nesting elements to make
secure stacking a breeze. Unlike any other option in this test, it’s
shaped to nest with other cases when empty. If you find yourself
storing empty boxes between trips, that feature can save space
at home. Unfortunately, the sloped lower half that enables nest-
ing does cost it space efficiency, dropping the 134 down to a 60
percent ratio which is average.
When it comes to tie-down points, though, the Australians
weren’t messing around. Each corner of the case has two inte-
grated lashing points for a total of eight altogether. These sit
below the lid, meaning you can still open and close the box
without removing the straps, and quick disconnect straps are
available. As a final feature, lock channels are built into the
latches to keep gear safe on the road.
Weatherproofing is excellent, and the case endured the wa-
ter and dust resistance tests without even a drop of ingress. Ex-
pedition 134 hasn’t put the box through official IP testing yet,
but they should. I feel confident putting just about anything in
this case without worrying about it getting wet.
The disadvantage of this heavy-duty weather sealing is that
it can make the latches harder to operate. Warm weather and
repeated use softened the seal, making it easier to close. But
upon initial delivery, a few team members struggled to close the
EXTERNAL DIMENSIONS
case despite using two hands and their body weight. Buyers of
22.76 x 17.32 x 13.58 inches the 134 should expect to break in the seals by cycling the latches
>,0./; repeatedly and, ideally, adding warmth.
8.7 pounds The Expedition 134 can be summarized as a simple, tough-
SPACE EFFICIENCY as-nails solution to storage with as few moving parts as possible
60 percent for reliability. It’s one of the more affordable choices in the test,
>,(;/,99(;05. yet despite its stellar performance, it felt somewhat lackluster.
Water and dust resistant
Much like buying the practical sedan, it’s a smart choice, but
somehow not the exciting one. Still, if you’re looking for pre-
mium durability and weatherproofing at an affordable price, the
Expedition 134 offers it.
$198 | EXPEDITION134.COM
CONCLUSIONS

A t the end of main gear reviews, we select just two

products for the coveted Editor’s Choice and Val-
ue awards. The Editor’s Choice is the product we would
choose for our own kit regardless of price, and the Value
Award goes to the item we feel provides the best perfor-
mance for the money. These decisions are always a chal-
lenge, but it was particularly difficult with this evaluation.
An argument could be made for multiple storage cases to
win either award, but in the end, here were our findings.

=(3<,(>(9+ When it came to balancing cost with per-

formance, three models stood out: the Dometic Go, Front
Runner Wolf Pack Pro, and Expedition 134. The Wolf
Pack was the most affordable of the bunch, but the easy
operation, stylish looks, and features of the Dometic make
it an attractive option for the price. Similarly, the Expedi-
tion 134 box was the only case under $200 that offered full
weather protection in every test we subjected it to.
In the end, there was just no way around the fact that
the Wolf Pack Pro had a solid performance, was half the
price of its competitors, and was a quarter of the price of the
most expensive models in the test. We love that it offers all
of the durability and space efficiency that made the original
Wolf Packs famous but with new latches that make daily
use significantly more enjoyable. The weather-resistant seal
does an admirable job of keeping gear dry and dust free,
and the nesting design makes stacking multiple cases a
worry-free ordeal. Our biggest complaints with this case
are the lack of an integrated lock and that all four latches
must be opened to access your items. These are small sacri-
fices to pay for such a superior storage option, making it the
final choice for the Value Award.
,HJOVULVM[OLZLJHZLZVɈLYZKPɈLYLU[Z[YLUN[OZHUKLHJOOHZ
an application where I would say it’s the best choice. There are no
bad options here.
and out of vehicles and the house. For that purpose, as a
do-it-all versatile option, I chose the Yeti Loadout GoBox.
This result took me entirely by surprise, as I went in with
zero expectations, but the quality and ease of use woven into
every aspect of the Yeti left nothing to be desired. Whether
it’s the tie-down system, the latches, handles, hinge, or lock
channels, every component feels built to last a lifetime. The
interior storage solutions are the perfect balance of simple
and effective, and careful thought was given to even the
most basic aspects of the case’s construction, equating to an
effortless experience each time you use it. Add in the Yeti’s
ability to withstand impacts and the best-in-test weather-
sealing, and you’ve got a recipe for a do-everything, go-
anywhere cargo case.

EDITOR’S CHOICE Editor’s Choice was the toughest deci-

sion of the test. So many of these storage cases won me
over, and I would choose them for different applications.
The organization systems in the Roam case, combined with
its gas-strut lid, make it the perfect grab-and-go kit for
my favorite activities like mountain biking and off-roading.
On the other hand, the durability, weatherproofing, and
looks of the Pelican Cargo series would likely make it a top
choice if I wanted to permanently mount cases to my roof 63
rack. And finally, both the AluBox and Zarges cases would
be at the top of my list if selecting a case for an around-the-
world trip or other applications where space and weight are
critical.
The reality is that at this point in my life, I’m a weekend
warrior, balancing multiple activities and moving cases in

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

Lati
tude
Frieda Maelle 34-35°N
 Colorado’s Million
Dollar Highway
Ultimate tarmac, sublime dirt, views for miles.

By Marianne Todd
74

Clockwise from top right:9LK4V\U[HPU7HZZH[MLL[PZHW[S`UHTLKMVY[OLV_PKPaLKTPULYHSZ[OH[[\YUP[ZJSPɈZHUKZ[YLHTZ[OLYLKJVSVYWPJ[\YLK

here. | ;^PZ[PUNYVHKZHSVUN[OL4PSSPVU+VSSHY/PNO^H`VɈLYRU\JRSLNYHIIPUNJSPɈZPKLZ^P[OUVYHPSZHUKWSLU[`VMKPY[VɈZOVV[ZMVYL_WSVYPUN| Walter
[HRLZHZ^PTH[/H]PSHUK3HRLVULVM[OLU\TLYV\ZÄZOPUNZWV[ZHZ]PZP[VYZLU[LY[OLTPSLZ[YL[JOVM<:9V\[L| /H]PSHUK3HRLVɈLYZTHU`YLJ-
reational opportunities as well as camping among the shade of towering Ponderosa pines. The park sits at 8,705 feet. | Adventure bikes, bicycles, Jeeps,
and hikers traverse the trails just outside Ouray to the south. | Opposite: Box Canyon Road in Ouray takes visitors to scenic hiking trails that include an
85-foot waterfall. | Opening spread: Abandoned mines like this one at Red Mountain Pass, just south of Ouray, punctuate the landscapes along the Mil-
lion Dollar Highway. It’s said that an estimated $30 million was pulled from these mountains in silver, lead, zinc, copper, and gold.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 T hey say the Million Dollar Highway begins and ends
between the Colorado mountain towns of Silverton
and Ouray, but traverse it, and you’ll also discover a plethora
of dirt road hideaways laced with abundant scenery, lakes and
streams, ample camping opportunities, and the rich history of
these once bustling mountain mining communities.
The 24-mile stretch of US Route 550 that weaves its way
through the Uncompahgre Wilderness from Silverton to
Ouray takes about 45 minutes to travel if you don’t stop along
the way, but commit to the greater San Juan Skyway Na-
tional Forest Scenic Byway, and the route stretches 233 miles
through the incomparable splendor that is Colorado’s San
Juan Mountain Range. Add in numerous off-road jaunts by
motorcycle or vehicle, and be prepared to explore for weeks.
Some argue that the Million Dollar Highway actually be-
gins farther south near Durango. From there, winding curves
give way to multitudes of amazing scenery, camping spots,
and lakes loaded with fish. Adventurers seeking primitive
digs need only to turn off the main road to easily find dis-
persed camping, or, if you really want a thrill, make a right off
US Route 550 a mile past Ridgway on Colorado 8 to traverse
30 or more miles of a winding dirt road that arrives among
stunning wilderness at Owl Creek Pass (10,118 feet) and Sil-
ver Jack Reservoir (8,926 feet).
The Million Dollar Highway has been a source of in-
timidation for drivers since it was completed in 1924 as an
original road in the nation’s federal highway system. Its most
frightening area is a narrow stretch through Red Mountain
Pass. This section is perched high above the Uncompahgre
Gorge. There are no guardrails over these sheer cliffsides
(snow plows push the snow over the edges here), and the
road is susceptible to fallen rock from more cliffs on the other
side. Still, the highway sees its share of 18-wheelers, massive
RVs, Jeeps, and motorcycles. Although the road is described
as inducing knuckle-grabbing anxiety, the hardest part about
traversing the Million Dollar Highway is keeping your eyes
off the stunning scenery and on the twisty roads.
No one knows what the Million Dollar Highway was
named for. Some speculate it was the cost of the road, the
million-dollar views, or the rich minerals used to pave the
original path. Along this route are numerous pull-offs and
side journeys, evidence of old mine shafts, rickety wooden
railroad tracks left from days gone by, lakes, streams, water- 75
falls, meadows, valleys, and, of course, great mountain peaks.
Red Mountain Pass, at the route’s highest point (11,075 feet),
is aptly named for the oxidized minerals that turn its cliffsides
and streams red. In the fall, when the golden aspens meet the
blazing redness of the hillsides, it is particularly splendorous.
I have traveled the Million Dollar Highway in summer
and fall, and the beauty here is unmatched at either time of

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 year. On this last trip in August, I overlanded with friend Reid
Hobby of Greenville, South Carolina, and his canine compan-
ion, Walter, a 4-year-old Deutsch Drahthaar, in his 2022 GMC
Denali. Behind us, we pulled a BMW 1250 GSA, a BMW F
750 GS, and a Husaberg. About 30 miles north of Durango,
we pulled off at Haviland Lake for a break. With Reid being a
fly fishing enthusiast and Walter being a water lover, it was the
perfect stop. Reid didn’t get to throw a line; Walter exacted his
owner’s attention with a ball, which he swam to retrieve over
and over again.
In the distance, the clouds grew dark, but that didn’t stop
people from fishing, paddleboarding, or sunbathing at the wa-
ter’s edge. A couple of federal wildlife officers stopped to shoot
the breeze with Reid and wound up calling in a fishing boat due
76 to an approaching storm.
Further up the road, we stopped at 10,910-foot Molas Pass,
overlooking breathtaking swaths of valleys punctuated with
lakes and streams and surrounded by numerous peaks. There is
a sign at Molas Pass with a description from W.H. Holmes in
an 1876 US geological and geographical survey. He said, “If you
should, in your imagination, put together in one small group,
perhaps 12 miles square, all the heights and depths, the rugged
precipices and polished faces of rock, and all the sharp pinnacles
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
and deeply-indented crests, and twenty times the inaccessible
summit that both of us have ever seen, you would not have a
picture equal to this.”
Of the San Juan’s numerous peaks, 13 reach above 14,000
feet. The road traverses four mountain passes and two national
forests (the Uncompahgre and San Juan). The Skyway can be
joined at numerous points, but we started by taking US Route
550 from Durango through Silverton, Ouray, and Ridgway,
Colorado Highway 62 to Placerville, then Colorado Highway
145 to Telluride and Cortez. The loop finishes on US Route 160
from Cortez through Mancos and back to Durango.
Back at Molas Pass, gray clouds released their water, causing
mists to form on the nearby peaks. Just below, a pond of lilies
sparkled under the remnants of sunlight. In each direction you
take in this wilderness, there is a sight to behold. The Colorado
Trail cuts through here just a quarter mile to the north, con-
necting Durango to Denver in 576 miles of switchbacks, water
crossings, wetlands, mud puddles, rocks and scree, whoopdies,
and downed trees. Adventure bikes, dirt bikes, full-size 4WDs,
and ATVs are allowed on various sections of this trail, amount-
ing to about 100 miles of motorized use. Mountain bikers
(allowed on 75 percent of the trail), hikers, trail runners, and
horses traverse this backcountry gem as well.
 I stopped to talk with a gentleman from Arizona who
was also taking in the views. In a sort of karmic, serendipi-
tous moment, we regarded one another along our journeys.
He had come to spread his spouse’s ashes, and I had done
so six years before, almost to the date. Complete strangers,
we hugged and shared tears on Molas Pass, shrouded in the
arriving mist and drizzle. Then we returned to our respective
trucks to carry on life as usual.
Reid, Walter, and I journeyed that afternoon until we
reached Ridgway State Park, about 14 miles north of Ouray,
taking the Dutch Charlie entrance to Elk Ridge Camp-
ground. The road winds its way up until it reaches a series
of campsites overlooking the 1,030-acre Ridgway Reservoir.
This isn’t just any ordinary campground. From just about any
vantage point, stunning views abound, especially at sunset.
I spent two evenings eyeing the reservoir’s blue water and
its contrast to the pink sky that appeared over Courthouse
Mountain to our east. We would be taking the 1885 cattle
trail to dispersed camping along that
Of the San Juan’s pink ridge in a matter of days, so for the
numerous peaks, night, we enjoyed hot showers, water
13 reach above
spigots, electricity, and other amenities
14,000 feet. The
while we could.
road traverses four
mountain passes
The next morning after a hearty
and two national breakfast, Reid and Walter headed to
forests. the lake to fish. I took off on my BMW
F 750 GS, heading back along the Mil-
lion Dollar Highway to Silverton. I stopped at a few scenic
points: overlooks into valleys with waterfalls and old mine
shafts left standing as a testament to the area’s history. This
is really where the Million Dollar Highway got its start. In
1880, mine workers needed a way to traverse the steep cliffs
here, and thus in 1883, the original dirt road was completed
and paid for by a toll system.
During the throes of the famous gold rush, the towns of
Ouray and Silverton had become the gateway into a pros-
perous mining district encompassing Ironton, Chattanooga,
Guston, Yankee Girl, and Red Mountain Town. It’s said that
an estimated $30 million was pulled from these mountains in
silver, lead, zinc, copper, and gold. Today, travelers to this area
of the San Juans can visit ghosts towns like the Red Moun-
tain Mining District or view the Old Hundred Gold Mine
Tour near Silverton, which takes visitors more than 1,800
feet into Galena Mountain for a glimpse of what life was like From each direction you view from Molas Pass,
when prospectors, miners, cooks—even saloon keepers and there is a sight to behold. | Campsites at Elk Ridge 77
*HTWNYV\UKH[9PKN^H`:[H[L7HYRVɈLYV]LYSVVRZ
prostitutes—ruled the hills of the Wild West. of the 1,030-acre Ridgway Reservoir. | Opposite:
In Silverton, I stopped at the world’s highest Harley Da- Ouray is nestled amid high mountaintops, beckon-
vidson shop and ate French onion soup at the Lone Spur ing adventurers, campers, and outdoor enthusiasts.
Cafe while Lacey Black played 1800s tunes on an old upright
piano. She says she’s been playing there for 32 years. Outside,
I met up with Randy Lazar and his mutt, Doc, who sported
goggles in the sidecar of his owner’s BMW 1250 GS. The pair
were searching out back roads, prospecting for good mining

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

78

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

stories. They found them plentiful near Silverton, replete with
history on the first railroad lines established in the rugged
hills that seem to touch the sky in every direction.
Rain accompanied my trip back to Ouray, but it didn’t
seem to slow me down, nor did any of the dozen or so mo-
torcyclists who passed by me in the dripping wet, all happily
waving as they passed. As the road through Red Mountain
Pass narrows, the rock walls seem to widen. The descent into
Ouray is fascinating in itself, a quaint town nestled, literally,
among tall peaks and pines. In this area alone, I have seen
bears, moose, deer galore, and even a badger waddling across
the road.
Now filled with charming shops, eateries, and a wonderful
mercantile store that offers an abundance of camping gear,
the town was once home to the nomadic Tabeguache Utes,
who moved in and out of the area seasonally. Named after
their leader, Chief Ouray, prospectors began to show up in
the 1860s as diplomatic negotiations failed one by one with
encroaching whites. Within 15 years, the natives were over-
taken, and the Utes ceded their beloved San Juans. Thus, the
Town of Ouray was established.
We opted to spend a last night at Ridgway, then head
toward the long, winding dirt road and glistening peaks of
Courthouse Mountain in the morning. During the night,
a bear visited my tent, then returned twice. I could hear
its heavy breathing and grunting close to my tent wall, so
I scooted into the center to avoid a claw should a paw rip
through. I knew I had no food around, and then I remem-
bered I had washed my hair in berry-scented shampoo earlier.
Not my best camping move. This area is home to a number
of black bears, and I would dare say a good portion of Colo-
rado’s estimated 20,000 strong. Signage abounds in the park,
on picnic tables and posts, even in bathroom stalls, warning of
not putting food in provided bear safes or leaving containers
open and about.
The road to Owl Creek Pass is well-kept, the dirt and
gravel covering the original 1885 aforementioned cattle drive
trail, cutting past monumental peaks like Chimney Rock and
Powderhorn and hillsides dotted with aspen, spruce, and fir.
ATVs and dirt bikes passed us one by one, then came trucks
hauling virtual houses on wheels, horse trailers, and side-by-
sides. Suffice it to say this is an off-road paradise that’s solid
enough for larger RVs.
Just past Owl Creek Pass at 10,114 feet, roads diverge
into side trails with plenty of dispersed camping marked by
stone fire rings. At one point, we came to an abrupt end and
had to back the trailer down a mile or so to a turnaround
point. Most of the roads parallel flowing creeks or are near
other water sources, such as the 325-acre Silver Jack Reser-
voir a mile or so away south toward Cimarron, with 80 devel-
oped campsites, and nearby Beaver Lake, which has another
11. The water level seemed low for the season, but that didn’t
stop boaters and fishermen from casting their lines or two-
wheeled adventurers like Reid from exploring the beach left
dry by receding water. I had opted to stay back on the bank
and turn my GS around. Reid, a seasoned dirt rider, admitted
the steep ride in and out was a bit hairy and said I had made
a good choice to do so.
We found a campsite near the East Fork Cimarron River
off County Road 861 and pitched our tents. It was a cozy
spot with a smooth, earthen floor nestled under spruce trees
right next to the water. Mushrooms were happily thriving
with the abundance of recent heavy rains and seemed to be
sprouting everywhere we looked.
Reid and Walter took off imme- Like the swift current
diately for the river with a fly rod. near our tent and the
birds getting busy with
A couple camping nearby came to
singing, the forest here
visit. They told us they were from
comes alive in the early
Montrose and had arrived coming morning hours, and so
from the opposite direction, where into the dawning sunlight
the road is smoother and less steep, we went, searching for
although it takes longer that way. our next adventure.
The sound of the river was a
comfort and lulled me to sleep that night after spending a few
pages with Richard Grant’s Dispatches from Pluto. Late-night
tent reading is a wonderful tool to keep bears out of mind and
home even closer.
The next morning after coffee, we geared up and headed
out on the bikes. The night had been cold, and I was a bit
stiff from being wrapped like a burrito in my sleeping bags,
but there’s something about the sound of a BMW moto en-
gine meeting the morning stillness that makes the blood flow
faster. Like the swift current near our tent and the birds get-
ting busy with singing, the forest here comes alive in the early
morning hours, and so into the dawning sunlight we went,
searching for our next adventure.
Opposite from top left: :PS]LY[VU»Z KV^U[V^U VɈLYZ LH[LYPLZ ^P[O
everything from steak to ice cream. The nearby Old Hundred Gold
Mine Tour relives the days of the Wild West. | Just past Owl Creek 79
7HZZ KPZWLYZLK JHTWPUN VWWVY[\UP[PLZ HYL THYRLK I` Z[VUL ÄYL
rings under tall pines. | ;OL YP]LY H[ 6^S *YLLR 7HZZ HɈVYKZ ÄZOLY-
man an opportunity to cast a line or for campers to bathe in the
cold, rushing water. | Heavy rains produced fungi in the soft earth in
and around dispersed camping sites. | Lacey Black has been playing
1800s tunes on this old upright piano for 32 years at the Lone Spur
Cafe in Silverton. |;OLKPY[YVHKZSLHKPUN[V7V^KLYOVYU7LHRÄUK
adventure enthusiasts traversing the winding paths on two- and four-
wheeled vehicles.
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
Arabian Sands
Crossing the Emirates in the
new Land Rover Defender 130.

By Scott Brady
Images by Nick Dimbleby and Scott Brady
 M y heart pounded, and my boots fell hard with each
stride to the cold tile. My thoughts crashed be-
tween, “It is not an adventure until something goes wrong”
and “Why can’t the planes, just this once, arrive on time?” I
fancy myself a stoic, at some times more than others. Even
though I knew I could not make it from the domestic ter-
minal to the international departure one in eight minutes, I
continued to run. Maybe I pushed against all odds to know I
had tried. Or perhaps it was the optimist in me, expecting a
possible delay at the gate. Or the knowledge that even when
the trains don’t run on time, the stars seem to align as they
should. That is the beautiful confluence of chaos and wonder
that occurs with travel. Covered in sweat and legs burning, I
82 arrived at the gate—just in time to see the Dreamliner back-
ing away from the jet bridge as the attendant looked at me
with genuine empathy, unable to reverse my fate.
With the milk spilled, I transitioned to problem-solver,
and through an efficient exchange of texts, emails, and calls,
the stars aligned once more. I would catch the same flight
24 hours later, and my lot was cast. I would miss my win-
dow to drive the Defender through the dunes, though, or so I
thought. Early the following day, I received an email from the
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
Land Rover logistics team suggesting a better outcome than I
could have imagined. They were going to embed me with the
Land Rover drive team, including my friend David Sneath,
Land Rover’s expeditions leader. The new plan was for me to
drive with the logistics team across the United Arab Emirates
(UAE) to the Omani border. The stars had not only aligned;
it felt like a penumbral eclipse had occurred.
The adventure had shifted from a well-groomed media
junket to the unconventional path less traveled. The Land
Rover drive team had enough faith in me to pilot their ve-
hicle and not disturb their ranks. The shift in schedule also
flipped my personal plans from the end of the trip to the
beginning, which included a desert drive from Dubai to the
petrified dunes south of Abu Dhabi. Being jet lagged and
excited meant little sleep, so I stopped fighting it and de-
parted at 0430 in a rented 300-Series Land Cruiser for my
solo boondoggle south. The roads were clear at that hour, and
I found a Starbucks (sorry) nestled in a perfectly manicured
petrol station. Impressively, nearly all of UAE is perfectly
manicured, not just in the tourist zones. The country feels like
Las Vegas without most of the debauchery and adds a few
zeros to everyone’s net worth. As I drove, the rising sun slowly
illuminated the scene, a sea of sand in nearly every direc-
tion—Jannah indeed.
The deserts of the world are my heart’s home, with 100-
mile views and the sparse landscapes I crave. Even in March,
there is a warmth to the Arabian Peninsula, the sun bringing
in the morning as the cool breeze reminds me it is still the
first days of spring. My schedule allowed enough time to
watch a journey of camels, hobbled by the traditional agal,
cross the road. I was remote, with only the herder within
view, and we each acknowledged the other with a relaxed
wave. I drove farther into the desert and flowed through the
crescent dunes, each sweeping turn over a crest doing more
than caffeine ever could. There was no trash in any direction,
and the only evidence of progress was a radio antenna on the
horizon and my momentary tire tracks in the sand.
Bucket lists have never been my thing, but I have unin-
tentionally manifested them on occasion. The aurora borea-
lis was one of my first items, shared with seeing the Rosetta
Stone, and sailing across an ocean. The list was reconjured in
2017 when I saw the release of the first images of the Louvre
in Abu Dhabi. It is a museum contained within a piece of
art, in a building so captivating that I found myself research-
ing every nuance of its creation. It had nothing to do with
driving and everything to do with travel. Serendipitously,
this trip made the dream a reality.
The museum was constructed primarily within the
coastal waters of the Persian Gulf, protected from rough
seas by a narrow inlet and 4,536 strategically placed pylons.
The main structure comprises 55 smaller buildings that
nest together to provide strength and the appearance of a
small seaside village; exterior doors allow access to steps de-
scending to the sea. The structures are an effulgent white
that play against the sun’s shadow and the water’s reflection,
providing a marvel rarely created by human hands. Floating
above the buildings is the most stunning feature of all, the
15,400,000-pound-steel-and-aluminum dome that mimics
the interweaving of palms from an oasis, simultaneously let-
ting through rays of light and the ocean’s refreshing winds.
I dwelt in the space for hours, grateful that the experience
transcended my imagination and allowed the stars to align
yet again.
Driving back to Dubai, my anticipation was palpable,
knowing that within hours I would be piloting a Defender
130 engineering vehicle to experience the drivetrain before
it was announced to the world. Sleep was fitful, a combina-
tion of persistent jet lag and my heightened enthusiasm. I 83
am not an early riser, but times like this numb the sting, as I
knew what felicities the dawn would deliver. I ambled to the Clockwise from top: The marriage of form and function meet in a struc-
first floor in search of coffee and, to my surprise, was instead ture of awe-inspiring presence. | Lasting beauty comes from the toils of the
rewarded with an impromptu drone race in the lobby (the creative spirit. | Every moment in the modern UAE is juxtaposed with the
world drone racing competition was nearby). Despite the past. | Shadows interplay among the austerity of the structure, simultane-
ously providing relief and rapture. | Opposite: Sand dunes yield a unique lore
aerial distraction, the sunrise was my cue, and off I drove to and challenge for the traveler, blown into being by the wind and a beacon for
the Dubai Land Rover HQ to meet up with David Sneath our imagination. | Opening page: The Arabian Sands stretch to the horizon,
and the rest of the drive crew. uninterrupted until the rocky steeps of Oman.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 Clockwise from top: Once hunted to extinction in the wild, the
Arabian oryx has rebounded under intense reintroduction and
JVUZLY]H[PVULɈVY[Z| >P[OHKYP]LYPUÅV^[OL+LMLUKLYKHUJLZ
along the dunes. | Land Rover still develops their expedition pro-
grams in-house and has a team of passionate overlanders that
84
prepare the vehicles and routes. | The desert reminds us of how
little we need for life.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 Moments like that morning are rare, with the opportu-
nity to watch another professional perform their craft. David
moved from task to task with the efficiency only an engineer
can harness and with a calm demeanor only decades of expe-
ditions can manifest. The driver meeting happened precisely
on time, and all minor adjustments were handled easily by his
team and logisticians. After the meeting, we needed to drive
two hours near the border with Oman and meet a pair of
helicopters landing with VIPs. We arrived with ample time
and watched as the rotor wash transformed the scene into a
moment Ian Fleming would be proud of.
From this point, my job was to run cold (i.e., no prac-
tice) into the midday sun and pilot the Defender 130 through
IS THE DEFENDER 130
several hours of ambitious dune driving. Fortunately, I had THE ULTIMATE MODERN
driven Discovery 5s in the Peruvian ergs and a Defender 110 LAND ROVER?
through the Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park (see the TV
show, All You Need to Know About Overlanding). Off we went,
I have spent a lot of time in this model,
a group of seven Defender 130s filled with VIPs, the hot des-
traveling throughout the southeast of the
ert lying in wait to claim its victims. And within short order, United States in one, and then across the
it did. A Land Rover got stuck in the bottom of a significant Arabian Desert in the UAE. Without ques-
bowl, requiring four MaxTrax and a kinetic rope to free it. I tion, the 130 is my favorite of the modern
was doing okay but had barely escaped a failed hill climb up a 3HUK9V]LYZVɈLYPUN[OLVW[PTHSJVUÅ\-
massive windward face. Fortunately, the eager, turbocharged, ence of capacity (payload and load space),
straight-six engine responded at precisely the right moment capability, and comfort. The 130 retains the
and helped us gain just enough momentum to reach the top. same wheelbase as the 110 at 119 inches
In reality, these dunes were about as challenging as aeolian but adds 13 inches of additional load
landforms can get, especially with it being nearly 100 degrees space aft of the rear axle. The added length
achieves several essential things, including
and the sun high in the sky. The heat expands the air between
ease of sleeping in the vehicle, additional
the individual grains, reducing mechanical keying and mak-
Z[VYHNLJHWHJP[`RLLWPUN^LPNO[VɈ[OL
ing the surface less stable. The midday sun is also the most roof), and better overall weight balance.
dangerous time of day, as there are no long shadows to reveal The weight balance improvement was most
the nuances of the erg’s shape, evident in extreme terrain. The 130 articu-
0[^HZKPɉJ\S[KYP]PUNHUK slope, and irregularities. These in- SH[LZTVYLLɈLJ[P]LS`ILJH\ZLVM[OLHK-
I was thrilled to be right in
sights are essential, as it is easy to ditional aft weight) and is less likely to pop
the middle of it, becoming
miss a hard lip or transition that the rear skyward during a wheel lift. The
one with the steed as I
could launch or roll the Land 130 is more settled and composed than the
found my rhythm of the
Rover. It was difficult driving, and 110, and the 110 was already really good.
JVU[YVSZÅV^PUN\WV]LY
and around the waves of I was thrilled to be right in the
Indeed, the 130 also has a few compro-
the Arabian sand sea. middle of it, becoming one with
mises, like a reduced departure angle to
the steed as I found my rhythm
28 degrees. It is easy to see that as a con,
of the controls, flowing up, over, and around the waves of the but 28 degrees is still better than a Land
Arabian sand sea. Cruiser 200 (24 degrees) and 4Runner (26
At the end of the route, our reward was a herd of criti- degrees). For my use, I will gladly take the
cally endangered Arabian oryx grazing under the shade of additional space and use some caution on
the acacias, the sun setting low against the horizon. This ad- the trail. The testing revealed that the most
venture had yielded immeasurable joys, from experiencing ZPNUPÄJHU[JVTWYVTPZL^P[O[OLPZ 85
architectural wonders to the supremely competent Defender the 20-inch wheels, as you cannot get the
130 to the immense grandeur of the desert. People like Da- 18-inch factory steel wheels due to brake
vid Sneath and his expedition team make a brand like Land ZPaL3\JR`6Ɉ9VHKJHUTP[PNH[L[OPZ
compromise if the owner is willing to go
Rover possible, passionate enthusiasts of vehicle-based travel
aftermarket, as they have an 18-inch wheel
that made every accommodation to my becoming a momen-
conversion for the 130 with the P300 and
tary member of their ranks. I am grateful that the future of P400 motors.
Land Rover exploration still lies in their hands and that the
stars of life often align, just as they should.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

Desk To Glory’s 1990
Toyota Pickup V2.0
A well-traveled truck with upgrades 87
based on experience.

By Richard Giordano

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023


Photo by Ernesto Perez Lopez
Little Red is at home meandering through the des-
ert. | Opening page: Fully loaded and ready for
life on the road. The Pelican Air 1745 roof box (on
Eezi-Awn K9 crossbars) was a recent addition to
keep lightweight hiking gear out of the truck bed.
P rior to its resurrection in 2013, our
1990 Toyota Pickup, “Little Red,”
had been ridden hard and put away wet.
It was left for dead in the back forty with
321,000 kilometers on the odometer, flat
tires, and a cracked windshield that leaked
like a sieve. Mold, rust, and long grass con-
sumed the 25-year-old beast. Despite the
Pickup’s unfortunate condition, we knew
in our hearts that this truck would make
a stellar overland vehicle for tackling the
Pan-American Highway.
We spent four weekends building it for
the trip—not four weeks, four weekends.
This limited period of time didn’t allow for
perfection, but it was more than enough to
build a capable machine to get us to Ush-
uaia, Argentina, and back. This venerable
minitruck embarked on a 65,000-kilometer
adventure it couldn’t have dreamed of dur-
ing its time wasting away in the backyard.
During our 18-month journey along
the Pan-American highway, my wife, Ash-
ley, and I spent well over 400 nights in our
Cascadia Vehicle Tents Mt. Bachelor roof-
top tent. We had no interior living space
whatsoever and lived entirely outdoors. We
absolutely loved it. This experience taught
us that we live for our time outside. But no
matter how well we timed our overland trip
with the seasons, there were rainy days and
windy nights where we jealously looked at
our neighbors in a cozy van or camper and
wished we could tuck ourselves indoors.
With the latest iteration of the build
you see here, our goal was to continue us-
ing our 1990 Toyota Pickup as a foundation
but with additional camp comfort and off-
pavement capability.
WEDGE CAMPER
By the time we returned home to Cana- 89
da in 2016, the wedge camper market was in
full swing. We almost immediately picked
up a V1 Go Fast Camper (GFC) XL for
a new-to-us 2008 Toyota Tundra. Having
a camper that we could leave on the daily
driver year-round was key. The 275-pound
camper was barely noticeable during nor-
mal driving scenarios, and we could (for
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

once) stand up and change inside or hide
from the wind and rain. After spending
two years with the GFC on the Tundra, we
knew it was the best option for our 1990
Toyota Pickup.
Speaking of weight, staying below the
truck’s gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR),
the maximum operating weight as specified
by the manufacturer, is important. But, in
the case of our naturally aspirated 4-cylin-
der Pickup, an overloaded truck is punch-
you-in-the-face obvious when you have to
downshift two or three gears to climb steep
grades. The lighter the truck is, the better it
will drive.
Ash and I spent months traveling in
Expedition Overland’s X3 Tacoma, which
is outfitted with plenty of Goose Gear
products, and we became instant fans. Their
vehicle-based storage systems are simple,
fairly light, and well-designed. We pulled
the trigger on two drawer units and a first-
gen Tacoma base plate kit straight out of
the Goose Gear catalog. Goose Gear also
90 built us a custom infill bench top to tie it
all together.
Having a dual-battery system means
we never need to worry about draining our
starting battery to the point where it won’t
start the truck. The convenience of having
a fridge, lights, and running water allows
us to stay out in the cuds longer. Rather
than going the traditional route of using a
basic battery isolator, we took a page out
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
of the Australian book of overlanding and
picked up a Redarc BCDC1225D DC to
DC charger. This dual-input model charges
from the vehicle’s starting battery when on
the move and from the solar array when
parked. That’s a bit of a lie, though, because
even when we’re moving, the charger will
prioritize solar input over the alternator. We
chose a couple of Full River 85-amp-hour,
deep-cycle AGM batteries, but if we ever
want to switch to lithium batteries in the
future, this charger is capable of doing so.
Using a few Go Fast Campers Beef
Rack crossbars and a set of solar trays, we
mounted two Samlex 100-watt solar pan-
els to the roof. Some people prefer portable
panels or adjustable mounts to fine-tune
their angle of incidence (and, therefore,
solar efficiency), but to be honest, I just
don’t want the hassle. Most of the time,
the camper top will be closed, and the solar
panels will point straight up, allowing them
to soak up a decent amount of solar energy
on the road or when parked. While camp-
ing, I can park facing south (as long as we
stay in the Northern Hemisphere) with the
camper roof deployed, and efficiency will be
pretty darn good.
A last-minute addition to the camper
build was a Planar 2D-12 diesel air heat-
er. We have lived in the Canadian Rocky
Mountains for a few years now and wanted
the ability to extend our camping season
well into fall or winter. We rarely spend
WE JUMPED AT EVERY OPPORTUNITY TO
TAKE THE LESS-TRAVELED DIRT ROADS AND
WERE REWARDED WITH BIG DUMB SMILES
EVERY TIME THE LONG-TRAVEL SUSPENSION
SOAKED UP HUGE RUTS OR MADE G-OUTS
FEEL INSIGNIFICANT.
The Go Fast Camper Cabana mode is perfect for
letting the warm bug-free breeze blow through
the camper. Lightweight Helinox camping chairs
and a Primus table help keep payload well below
the rated capacity.
Opposite:
1. A Blue Sea Systems BelowDeck panel (hous-
ing USB ports), Blue Sea Systems Contura
switches for lights and water pumps, the Pla-
nar heater thermostat, and a Front Runner
water spigot are all easily accessed from the
back or side of the truck.
2. AC power is available thanks to the Samlex
America PST 600-watt pure sine wave inverter.
3. Scepter water tanks are a simple way to
have onboard water that can be removed for
YLTV[LÄSSPUN
4. Icon Vehicle Dynamics coilovers (with sec-
ondary shocks) aren’t something you’d nor-
mally see on a vehicle that sees long-term
overland use. However, when paired with the
Total Chaos 3.25-inch-long travel Caddy Kit,
[OL WLYMVYTHUJL ILULÄ[Z MHY V\[^LPNO [OL
maintenance requirements.
5. The custom kitchen module provides enough
ZWHJL[VILLɈLJ[P]LI\[^LPNOZSLZZ[OHU
pounds (including the Dometic VA8000 sink).
6. Taking the long dusty way to Bahía de los
Ángeles.
7. The Redarc BCDC1225D, paired with a Blue
Sea Systems six-blade fuse block, is a sim-
WSL`L[LɈLJ[P]LWV^LYZVS\[PVU[OH[[HRLZ\W
very little space.
8. A pair of Samlex America 100-watt solar pan-
els adorn the roof of the Go Fast Camper and
are joined by a pair of MaxTrax on custom
brackets.
9. Corbeau Baja RS seats were installed with
Q\Z[LUV\NOYVVT[VZSPKLPUH;\Ɉ`:LJ\YP[`
Products 6.5-inch-wide universal center con-
sole.
10. .VVZL.LHYTVK\SLZ^LYLÄ[[LK[V[OL[Y\JR
bed to aid in the organization of gear and pro-
vide a place to sit during inclement weather.
1. 5. 8.

2. 6.

3. 7. 9.

91

4. 10.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 time camping or traveling locally when it’s
colder than -10°C, so we selected a heater
to keep us warm and toasty in those frigid
temperatures. A benefit of a diesel heater is
that it can decrease humidity and be used to
dry gear or the camper in wet environments.
GEARS AND A LIMITED
SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
Our little 1990 Toyota Pickup traveled
effortlessly from Canada to Argentina and
back with factory front and rear open dif-
ferentials. Yes, we went overlanding without
lockers. Could we have gone farther off the
beaten track with some sort of traction-aid-
ing differential? Most definitely. Were we
willing to spend the money on a locker or
92 two instead of spending those hard-earned
dollars traveling? Absolutely not. Do you
know how many tacos you could buy with
the savings?
Upon returning to Canada, and with
many months on roads covered in snow and
ice, a Nitro Gear & Axle Helix torsion-style
limited slip was installed for increased con-
trol in the winter, which also significantly
helps on remote technical trails and soft
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
sand beaches. While we were at it, we in-
stalled a set of G2 Axle and Gear 4.88s. The
inside tire no longer spins at every hint of
body roll, we can approach basic obstacles
with less speed and momentum (saving
the truck from unnecessary abuse), and the
little Pickup is much more predictable at
speed on loose gravel surfaces.
SUSPENSION
Suspension is one of the most important
components of any overland vehicle build.
The time, effort, and dollars spent on shocks
and springs are realized each and every time
you drive. You’ll be reminded of your good
(or bad) suspension design on every corner,
pothole, washboard road, or Mexican tope.
The 30-year-old suspension technology
had left us (and our aging backs) wanting
more. We could have simply replaced the
worn-out OME Nitrocharger shocks, but
additional comfort and performance were
in order. Instead, we went from 0 to 60 real-
ly quickly and ordered a Total Chaos +3.25-
inch Caddy Long Travel Kit.
The 4130 chromoly tubular upper and
lower control arms bolt to factory mount-
ing locations and use uniballs in the up-
per control arms to provide 12 inches of
front wheel travel. This version of the Total
Chaos kit uses a weld-on shock hoop kit
that allows us to remove the factory torsion
bars and install an 8-inch travel 2.5-inch
coilover. Modern suspension performance,
here we come.
We installed front and rear shocks from
Icon Vehicle Dynamics. Longer travel and
better control, due to increased piston area
(because of the larger diameter) over stock
components, means that the Icon shocks
will help the truck handle technical obsta-
cles and high-speed dynamic inputs much
better than the stock Toyota or Old Man
Emu units. The additional fluid volume
provided by the remote reservoirs helps the
shocks remain cool and resist fading over
long drives on rough roads. For those dy-
namic times when the springs and shocks
can’t handle the load, the Timbren Active
Off-Road bump stops will reduce the ki-
netic energy in a controlled way.
You can’t always have your cake and eat
it too. The biggest problem with race car
parts is that they come with race car prob-
lems. Rebuilds and replacements of control
arms and shocks are expected at more fre-
quent intervals than factory components. To
limit the overall maintenance required, we
replaced the steering components and lower
ball joints with genuine Toyota OEM parts.
Most of these factory components are sealed
and won’t require maintenance. We had
good luck sourcing these parts throughout
the Americas and expect they can be found
elsewhere around the world without issue.
They are certainly found at every local Napa
or Auto Zone.
LONG RANGE FUEL TANK
How many times have you passed a gas
station, wondering if you should turn back
and top off the tank? Are you constantly
curious about how much gas is actually re-
maining when the low-fuel light illumi-
nates? Have you looked at those gasoline-
filled 2-liter Coke bottles in Mexico and
pondered the percentage of cola versus gas?
Range anxiety is real.
The original 17-gallon fuel tank was per-
fectly adequate 99 percent of the time, but
every once in a while (twice on our Pan-
American journey), we needed the added
capacity of a 5-gallon jerry can. Now that
the bed of our truck is composed entirely of
living space, we no longer have room for any
fuel containers.
The two biggest downsides of the Long
Range America tank are cost and weight, es-
pecially when filled with 33 gallons of 91-oc-
tane fuel (the tuned-up 22RE is thirsty for
premium fuel). Unfortunately, when greater
range is required, you have to carry gasoline
somewhere. A rear bumper with swing-outs
can cost thousands of dollars and add even
more weight to the truck. A roof rack and
Rotopax are quite expensive as well, plus
they add weight in the worst possible place.
The long-range tank started to make perfect
sense to us. Above all, the weight (and center
of gravity) is kept as low as possible, right in
the middle of the chassis.
With a new and improved range of 800
kilometers, we can now skip gas stations at will.
CONCLUSIONS
With the odometer now reading
419,016, our shakedown run took us through
the Southwest US and into Baja California,
Mexico. We jumped at every opportunity to
take the less-traveled dirt roads and were re-
warded with big dumb smiles every time the
long-travel suspension soaked up huge ruts
or made G-outs feel insignificant. On tech-
nical trails, the suspension articulation and
the limited-slip differential kept both rear
tires planted, pushing us forward without
drama. To be fair, it took a couple of valv-
ing adjustments after the install to make the
shocks work so well for this application, but
that was expected on a custom build.
When camping, our gear was organized
and easy to access. If the weather wasn’t co-
operating, we tucked ourselves in the glori-
ous inside living space. There isn’t a lot of
room for two people to move around in the
GFC, so it’s a good thing that Ash and I
like each other. The lack of square footage is
a small compromise to make when the oth-
er option is to be stuck outside in the wind
or rain.
At one point, after hundreds of kilo-
meters of dirt, we rolled into Bahía de Los
Ángeles to top up on fuel. Turns out, there
wasn’t any available. Normally, we would
have been on fumes and in search of a cre-
ative solution. With the long-range tank, we
still had a touch under half a tank to get us
to the next town. The 33-gallon tank is fast
becoming one of my favorite modifications
to the truck.
We started the build with the goal of
keeping it relatively simple and light while
still making the camper comfortable enough
to live in for months at a time. It’s not as
comfortable or heavy as a slide-in camper,
and it’s not as light as a simple canopy and
backpacking gear would be, but using the
Goldilocks principle, we designed and built
a vehicle that’s just right for us (right now).
The loaded truck comes in at 4,900 pounds
without us in it. Sure, even the freshly re-
built 22RE with LC Engineering perfor-
mance bolt-ons still struggles a bit on steep
grades, but we’re under GVWR, exploring
remote roads during the day and sleeping in
comfort at night.
The last 100,000 kilometers of this truck’s life
have been solely used for travel.
SPECIFICATIONS
1990 Toyota Pickup
76>,9
2.4-liter 22RE 4-cylinder rebuilt by Disturbed
Industries (Abbotsford, British Columbia)
W56 5-speed transmission, rebuilt by Disturbed
Industries
SUSPENSION AND DRIVE
4.88:1 axle gearing, G2 Axle and Gear
3VUNÄLSKYLHYH_SLZ
5P[YV.LHY (_SL/LSP_SPTP[LKZSPWKPɈLYLU[PHS
6WLUMYVU[KPɈLYLU[PHS
Total Chaos +3.25-inch Gen II Caddy Long
Travel Kit
Total Chaos idler arm
Icon Vehicle Dynamics 2.5-inch shocks with
CDCV compression adjustment
Custom 63-inch Chevy rear springs with
:R`»Z6Ɉ9VHK+LZPNU:WYPUN:^HW2P[
;PTIYLU(J[P]L6Ɉ9VHKI\TWZ[VWZMYVU[
and rear
>/,,3:(5+;09,:
Fifteen52 Turbomac HD Classic 16x8 wheels
Toyo Tires ATIII 285/75R16 tires
RECOVERY AND ARMOR
ARB Deluxe front bumper
Trail Gear Rock Defense rear bumper
Trail Gear rock sliders
Warn M8000-S winch
MaxTrax MKII recovery tracks with
custom bracket
INTERIOR
Corbeau Baja RS seats
Hold Fast steering wheel with NRG adapter
;\Ɉ`:LYPLZ00<UP]LYZHSPUJOJLU[LYJVUZVSL
Blue Ridge Overland Tacoma attic
6ɈYVHTWOVULTV\U[
ACCESSORIES
Long Range America TH105ER fuel tank
Baja Designs LP9 Sport lights on front bumper
ARB high-output onboard air compressor
mounted under hood
Full Throttle battery, AGM FT825-78
Eezi-Awn K9 crossbars
Pelican Air 1745 roof box
AluBox 60-liter rear seat storage box
CAMPER
Go Fast Campers V1 platform camper
Dometic CFX3 35 fridge/freezer
Goose Gear drawers DD151525 and DD201525 93
.VVZL.LHYÄYZ[NLU;HJVTHIHZLWSH[L
kit PTACO1-6
Dometic VA8000 sink
Samlex America 100-watt solar panels (2)
Samlex America PST-600 inverter
Full River Battery DC85-12 house batteries (2)
:SLL6ɈYVHKIH[[LY`[LYTPUHSL_[LUZPVUZ
Redarc BCDC1225D DC-DC charger
Planar 2D-12V diesel heater
Blue Sea Systems BelowDeck panel
Contura switches
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
 A shot rang out, followed by a scream, loud and very
close—too close. Our new Nigerian friends scattered
as one without hesitation, cowering as they ran as if expect-
ing a hail of bullets. They disappeared into the building beside
which we were camped, leaving us bewildered, on our feet, and
alarmed. There had been a murder, and this was one of the
Survivors
most unstable areas in Africa. Nigeria, murder, and mayhem.
It was late May 2019, and our family of four was driving
the length of West Africa in a dispirited, temporary convoy 95
through one of the most dangerous areas of Nigeria. We were By Graeme Bell
in a corner of the country sandwiched between the volatile, Photography by Graeme
oil-rich Niger Delta and areas controlled by radical Islamist and Luisa Bell
Boko Haram, the region famed for criminal gangs, kidnap-
ping, and murder. There was no other route from Benin to
Cameroon—Niger, Chad, and the Central African Republic
were no-go zones. Our convoy consisted of three vehicles: our
Land Rover Defender, a British couple in their Defender, and
a German family of five driving an ancient and unreliable Ma-
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
 girus Deutz truck. We had come together in Benin to support each
other through Nigeria, collectively accepting the risk after being as-
sured by recent reports from overland travelers who had crossed this
terrain unmolested. Overland travelers are not targeted by the gangs
of “bandits” or radical Islamists, and there had been no contemporary
reports of violence or attacks on travelers or foreigners. Our children
were both in their late teens, and we have traveled Africa and the
Americas extensively; we are highly experienced travelers. Despite
the crime epidemic in South Africa, greater Africa has always wel-
comed us with open arms. We knew that respect earns respect, and
throughout our travels across 26 African countries, we seldom had
cause for serious concern.
A few days before the murder in Katsina-Ala, we had left Lagos
knowing that one of the most dangerous and challenging stretches of
96 the West African journey lay ahead of us. From Enugu to the high-
lands, we would follow an off-road trail through the Gashaka-Gumti
National Park to reach Cameroon while attempting to avoid the civil
war there.
The road was challenging, not merely due to the unpredictable
surface and drivers (we passed a long-dead body lying beside the
road) but also by the sheer number of military and police roadblocks.
At Ogoja, we were stopped for the tenth time that day by a police-
man who asked where our front number plate was. We told the of-
ficer that it was displayed on the roof rack, and he spent a few min-
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
utes contemplating the number plate before returning to ask for my
driver’s license and passport, which he contemplated for another 10
minutes. Eventually, after noticing our pent-up frustration, his col-
league approached and said, “Don’t be offended; we are the Nige-
rian anti-kidnapping unit.” This announcement did not make us feel
safer—quite the opposite.
Surprisingly, our spirits were relatively high despite illness, ter-
rible roads, heat, and constant roadblocks. We arrived alone in the
infamous town called Katsina-Ala late in the afternoon, located
the Smile View Hotel, and drove into the secure, walled compound
where the British and German trucks stood waiting for us. We had
separated the day before when we insisted on taking our daughter,
Jessica, to a clinic to treat her malaria and then waiting for her condi-
tion to stabilize. It was amazing how quickly Jessica’s health had im-
proved in the days since the malaria diagnosis; Coartem is a fantastic
drug and effectively renders the disease impotent (if only there were
an equivalent pharmaceutical for the resulting flu-like symptoms
that continued to plague Luisa and me). There are still a million ma-
laria deaths each and every year in Africa, a shocking statistic, despite
the apparent best efforts of NGOs and aid organizations distribut-
ing nets and treatment. We are fortunate that the handful of dollars
needed to diagnose and treat such a dangerous and deadly disease is
easily spent and not soon missed; the majority of Sub-Saharan Afri-
cans do not enjoy the same luxury.
 With Jessica safely in bed, attended to by her brother Keelan, the
Land Rover prepared for a night parked between high concrete walls
and a tall, green steel gate. I sat with the hotel staff and watched Tim,
the German scientist, work on his truck—again. Tim spent most of
the evenings working on the Magirus Deutz, repairing the camper
panels, preventing leaks into the camper, and maintaining the vehi-
cle. This evening, he was attempting to fabricate a raised air intake as
the roads had been wet and muddy, and we were traveling in the rainy
season. The hotel staff and their friends were affable and relaxed,
helping Tim, telling jokes, and chatting with me about South Africa,
Europe, and the USA. We had a pleasant “camp” arranged between
the three vehicles, all facing the main, single-story structure shaped
like an L, with the main building of rooms and reception and a wing
that extended to the left of our parking lot camp. The sun had begun
to set, and a meal at the end of another steaming day relaxed us. Tim’s
wife, Pia, fed her children while Tim tin-
The entire town became
kered; Luisa tidied the Landy; and the
dead silent as all her
British kept themselves busy. Conversa-
residents hid from those
who terrorized the night—
tion filled the air.
time stood still. The shot rang out just before sunset,
and the scream pierced the air. The men
with whom we sat dispersed as if they had been expecting violence
and were well accustomed to it. They disappeared into the motel
building, leaving us to fend for ourselves. After a stunned moment,
Luisa and I kicked into action, quickly and quietly locking the kids
in the room. After we packed away the tables and chairs, removing
the evidence of our relaxed late afternoon, we instructed our convoy
mates to hide in their trucks. Sporadically, locals ran onto the proper-
ty through the large green gate (which was eventually slammed shut
and locked) and another smaller gate at the end of the left wing. They,
too, ran cowering, shoulders slumped, heads protected from feared
bullets. The sun vanished, and night arrived, suddenly dark and omi-
nously quiet. The entire town became dead silent as all her residents
hid from those who terrorized the night—time stood still.
A large, powerfully built man dressed in fatigues rushed into the
courtyard, a Kalashnikov assault rifle in hand at the ready—our worst
fear realized. He ran into the motel shouting and emerged with two
tall, thin, young staff members who he ordered to lay on the ground
as I stood sheltering Luisa deep in the shadows only 2 meters away.
The militant picked up a metal rod and began beating the men vi-
ciously, shouting, “Where is the gun? Where is the gun?”
The prostrate men shouted that they did not know, their hands
held open before them, protesting, pleading, and protecting. The ag-
gressor looked over the vehicles and then left, taking the men with
him. Absolute quiet returned.
Too soon, the Englishman started chatting to Tim excitedly
while Tim noisily mounted his bicycle on the back of his truck, their
loud, conspicuously European voices breaking the silence. I instruct- 97
ed them to be quiet and remain hidden, explaining that when the
locals return to normal, only then could we relax. Luisa left to care
The Gashaka-Gumti National Park is sublime—it’s at a higher elevation
for and protect our children while I returned to the shadows, ready
and thus cool, wet, and sparsely populated. | Nigerian roads are a chal-
to act—not as a hero or an innocent, but prepared to intervene to lenge the farther one explores from the commercial centers. Between the
protect my family and friends, ready to diffuse a situation, hoping to potholes and the roadblocks, progress is painfully slow. | The infamous
ensure that we could all stay safe in this infamous Nigerian kidnap- Smile View Hotel, outside which the murder was committed. | Opposite:
The convoy did not weather the emotional storm, and three became two,
ping zone. Coming of age in South Africa during the dying days of
with the departed vehicle safely half a day ahead. | Opening page: Our
apartheid, I had experienced another world to that of my European battered and beaten (but never defeated) Defender prepares to cross an
travel companions. Late-night assault rifle fire had erupted very close ancient, colonial-era bridge.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 to my high school boarding school at the edge of the Munsieville
township after a visit by the firebrand Winnie Mandela; our hos-
tel master patrolled the corridors, pistol in hand; there were regular
bomb drills, and I’d witnessed unrest over the years, along with a few
guns being shoved in my face. I could only assume that these men,
my companions, could not fathom the true danger of the situation we
were faced with that night. I felt oddly calm, the metallic taste of fear
and adrenaline in my throat.
The militant returned, his attention now turned to our vehicles. I
stepped out of the shadows and offered my hand with a confidence
that surprised me. The man shook it, and I found myself briefly hold-
ing the hand which had undoubtedly delivered death—to how many
I did not know.
“My name is Rob. What is your name?”
“My name is Commando; I am Nigerian Special Forces. Where
is your security detail?” he barked.
“They are coming now—five minutes,” I lied.
“Where are you from?”
“I am South African; we are heading to Cameroon,” I responded.
“A woman was murdered, now, outside the gates. Are there men guing and refusing to allow his vehicle to be searched and attempt-
here with guns?” ing to drive away. We all found ourselves staring down the barrel
“No, sir. I only saw the staff.” of a cocked Kalashnikov, the safety off and an aggressive finger on
“Stay inside. You are safe.” These were hollow words from a man the trigger. The convoy community came to an end that night as we
who had just beaten innocent men with a metal rod. camped in a police station yard, nerves frayed. The British couple left
With that, he left, and I waited, wondering what would happen alone in a hurry that morning once I had consulted the police chief
next and whether the man who claimed to be Nigerian Special Forc- and ascertained that we did not need an expensive police escort. My
es was, in fact, in the service of the government. An eternity passed, research indicated that the road and security situation improved sig-
and eventually, the town came back to muted life. Radios played qui- nificantly on the approach to the Gashuka-Gamti National Park.
etly, vehicles clattered by on the dirt road Optimism had returned with the sun, and the German fam-
We all found ourselves
stained with blood, and an air of tense ily followed us up into the cool highlands where we would spend
staring down the barrel
calm returned to Katsina-Ala. the next three days in low-range 4WD, negotiating the muddy trail
of a cocked Kalashnikov,
[OLZHML[`VɈHUKHU
Tim left his truck and headed back through an area of immense beauty until we emerged in a region of
HNNYLZZP]LÄUNLYVU to the hotel room. As he approached the Cameroon unravaged by the civil war there.
the trigger. entrance, two young men emerged from Mere weeks after we left Katsina-Ala, Chief Press Secretary of
the hotel, greeted him with huge smiles Benue State Ede Ogaba Ede announced that a curfew was being im-
of relief, clapped their hands, and declared, “You are free! You are posed by the military “as part of efforts to restore peace and ensure
free!” Tim ignored the men and brushed past them. I approached the security of lives and property in that part of the state.” Acting
the one man and asked, “Why are you surprised that he is free?” The Governor Engineer Benson Abounu pressed the people to obey the
young man’s smile faded as he replied, “No, everything is OK; I am curfew and cooperate with security operatives.
just happy to see him.” To be honest, I did not escape the experience unscathed. My sol-
I continued questioning, but he refused to confirm what I already ace comes from the knowledge that I carried the burden for my fam-
knew. The conversation spooked me; eleven “European” travelers ily, they were not traumatized by the experience, and that I success-
must have presented a tempting target for any professional kidnap- fully protected them. I also appreciate that my travel companions also
per gang. The night was not yet over and would be long. were suffering from incredible stress and dealt with that stress the
My family remained locked in the room while I sat in the Land only way they knew how. We were lucky.
Rover for two hours, watching and waiting. Eventually, at midnight, I We continue to travel, and since those difficult days in Nigeria,
slipped out of the Land Rover and locked up before joining my fam- we have explored Southern and East Africa before returning to the
98 ily in the room, pushing a large armchair against the door. There I sat USA and Latin America. The world is generally safe, and her people
all night, trying to stay awake, listening to every sound. It was a very are kind, generous, and wonderful. To allow this experience to forever
long night indeed, and when a large storm broke, I permitted myself taint our love of exploration would have done us a terrible disservice
to sleep for an hour or two before the sun rose. We prepared to evacu- and is something we never considered for a moment.
ate, tired but relieved.
The following day was fraught with tension and bittered by ex-
haustion. Our self-appointed convoy leader, the Englishman, made
poor decisions, taking the wrong route despite protestations, eventu- ;OL HUJPLU[ .LYTHU 4HNPY\Z +L\[a HUK OLY WYLJPV\Z JHYNV VM Ä]L ZV\SZ
ally leading us to our overnight destination as the sun set. Our lead lumbers up a muddy trail away from Katsina-Ala toward the misty, peaceful
then took issue with an agitated soldier at yet another roadblock, ar- highlands.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 99

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

Crossing the Devil 101
;OLÄYZ[,=[YH]LYZLVM(TLYPJH»Z
longest trail by Hummer.

By Scott Brady

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

102

Clockwise from top right: Thule Well includes one of the few permanent structures along the route and reliable access to water. There is
HSZVVULVM[OLTVZ[YLTV[L)V`:JV\[ÅHNPUZ[HSSH[PVUZPU[OLJV\U[Y`| El Camino del Diablo bites, pokes, and burns. | We encountered
U\TLYV\Z^HZOV\[ZMYVT[OLOLH]`Z\TTLYYHPUZ"ZVTLHYLHZ^LYLL]LUÅVVKLKHUKYLX\PYLK\ZPUNI`WHZZ[YHPSZ| Welcome to the Wild
West. | While the trail is passable in a standard 4WD, some sections require additional attention. | Opening page: We had enough range to
include side trips, including an 18-mile detour through Christmas Pass, one of the more challenging sections of the trail.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 T ravel has taken many forms throughout the ages,
from the earliest surviving travelogue in the Periplus
of the Erythraean Sea (100 CE) to one of the first volumes
about the joys of adventure in Ascent of Mont Ventoux (1336).
It is also clear that many explorers of yore took great love
from the journey as well, including Eusebio Francisco “Fa-
ther” Kino, a Jesuit priest, explorer, geographer, and cartog-
rapher. Father Kino was known for his thoughtful approach
toward interacting with indigenous peoples, and even oppos-
ing the slave labor forced upon those tribes under Spanish
rule. He interacted with 16 different tribes, and learned their
overland routes throughout the desert Southwest, including
his most notable expedition to California that proved (finally)
that Baja was not an island, and was not occupied by Ama-
zon women. His most challenging trail became known as El
Camino Del Diablo.
For this adventure, our travels were taking on an entirely
new form as well, to become the first to cross the length of
El Camino del Diablo (ECDD) in an EV, and only on the
charge we left with. With no generators, and no support, we
used two early-production Hummer EV trucks to cross this
infamous track, and in early summer. ECDD is the longest
unsupported overland trail in the contiguous 48 states, and it
challenges the route to Prudhoe Bay, too, as it is not main-
tained. The route we took was over 156 miles, and it tests the
range of any vehicle, with miles of sand and nearly two days
of mostly low-range travel. It was also a bit of a returning
home for me, as this trail was the first long-distance overland
route I traveled, completing it in my trusty Isuzu Trooper al-
most exactly 20 years prior.
The Road of the Devil is historically significant, and based
almost entirely off of the aboriginal trade routes in the re-
gion. This was a confluence of practicality, as there is limited
water and significant mountains to navigate along the road.
ECDD was crossed for millenia, hardened through the ages
by weary travelers attempting to traverse the desert between
Caborca, Mexico, to the Colorado River. This original route
was 250 miles, and was first documented by conquistador
Captain Melchior Díaz as part of the Coronado Expedition.
It would not be documented again until 160 years later in
the detailed writings and maps of Father Kino. In its current
form, the trail is nearly 140 miles (without detours) from Ajo
to Yuma, with no services or support the entire length, and it
is estimated that over 1,000 travelers have lost their lives to
it. It runs tight against the border wall with Mexico, and the
only other traffic we encountered was the occasional border
patrol vehicle, or illegal trafficking (we encountered four drug
runners in the Tinajas Altas region with no incident). It is a
stunningly beautiful and shockingly stark trail that rewards
the prepared overlander.
For our EV adventure, the route began at a converted
schoolhouse in Ajo, a beautiful historic not-for-profit hostel
called the Sonoran Desert Inn that is locally operated. With
a place to sleep sorted, we needed to find a place to charge,
as the Hummer EV’s 212 kWh pack requires serious 220-
volt power to charge quickly, so we hunted down a 50-amp
service at the local RV park. There were other level 2 chargers
in town, but they were slower 30 or 40 amp services. We paid
the park attendant $10 per Hummer and plugged them in,
anticipating a 4:30 a.m. completion. With that, it was a quick
walk around the historic district to find a restaurant that was
still open (all but one was closed), and then an early wake-up
call to hit the trail.
There is always something so special about the start of a
trip, the radios crackling to life with radio checks and chat-
ter, the windows down, and the sound of 35-inch Goodyears
turning across the tarmac. With hot convenience store coffee
in our cup holders, we hypermiled the Hummers the three
miles of highway to the start of the trail. It was unseasonably
cool for September, the monsoon rains bringing moisture and
cloud cover to the Sonoran Desert, the cacti full and verdant
against the granite and sand. We elected to keep the tires at
full pressure, making the gamble that decreased rolling re-
sistance would help with range, but not create too many is-
sues (or get us stuck). The independent airbag suspension is
as smooth as a magic carpet, never abusing the occupants over
the corrugations.
The track begins on Darby Road, and gains elevation to
Growler Pass, threading the valley between Black Mountain,
Locomotive Rock, and Mount
Scarface, all fitting monuments to In its current form, the
the trails that lay ahead. This also trail is nearly 140 miles
(without detours) from
marks the start of Organ Pipe
Ajo to Yuma, with no
National Monument, the park
services or support the
that Outside Magazine labeled the entire length, and it
most dangerous in the country. In is estimated that over
reality, it isn’t notably dangerous 1,000 travelers have
for tourists like us, but it is for the lost their lives to it.
undocumented persons that have
crossed the border illegally, and the officials that are attempt-
ing to enforce the laws. It is a wild place in every sense, but no
less beautiful or worth visiting.
Crossing into the Cabeza Prieta Wilderness marks an-
other stark shift in the track and topography, as the trail is
little maintained and the sand much deeper. The Hummers
began to ramp their electric consumption, getting down to
.4 miles per kilowatt hour in the deepest sand. Fortunately,
the sand (and subsequent mud) was only a small section of
the overall route, so we were able to average 1.2 miles per
kilowatt hour for the trip. This became such an interesting 103
lesson in maximizing efficiency while also optimizing regen
opportunities.
We really settled into EV overland travel, and the range
anxiety melted away, leaving us with only the silence that an
electric drivetrain can afford, the wind and the tires making
the only perceptible sound. There was a building confidence
in not only the Hummer, but in the ability of EVs to easily
navigate all of the popular overland routes in North America,
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
 often with range to spare. We cruised right through the Pina-
cate Valley without incident, regularly looking south to the
border fence and the massive Altar Desert in Sonora, Mexico.
Things were going so well with range that we elected to
push our luck (a move I take particular pleasure from) and
drive out and back to Christmas Pass, one of the more chal-
lenging trails in the area. Even those additional 12 miles
didn’t strain our available range, and I stopped thinking about
range entirely—we were going to make it.
Our final stop before camp was the Tinajas Altas tank,
home to the only semi-reliable watering source along the
trail. It is a massive granite catch-
ment with the capacity to store They have gone,
200,000 gallons of water throughout The birds of the sky.
a series of cascading pools. It is a They have gone,
granite bowl, brilliantly white, with The animals of the earth,
massive pockets of wind and water They have returned
erosion. It is also the deadliest stop Along their own trail.
along the historic route, with no less
On a white rock under the
than 70 prospectors having died at
moon,
the base or just short of the higher On a red rock under the sun,
cisterns. The travelers would arrive On a black rock they sat,
bone weary and dehydrated, only to On a yellow rock they rested
find the largest and lowest catch- And looked back and saw
ment dry. This would require a dan- I\[[LYÅPLZ
gerous rock climb to the next bowl, They looked behind them
but in leather-soled boots. There are and saw
horrific stories of fingers ground to A whirlwind,
the bone trying to climb its flanks. And they watched the
whirlwind
This made it all the more impres-
And it was a tree
sive when Todd Hubbard, one of the
Standing in a cool shadow.
GMC engineers climbed all the way
to the top. They sit under the tree in
Traveling El Camino del Diablo the shadow,
is an exercise in the subtleties of na- They sit under the still tree.
ture, life at the limits, and the relent- -Papago Tribal Song
less power of wind and time. Details
abound, but they require searching,
like the massive stone metate ground through the ages from
the peoples before us, a testament to their resilience and in-
tellect. I also found myself contemplating the experiences of
the early explorers, entirely dependent on the generosity of
the peoples they encountered, yet destined to betray them,
even if indirectly, in the end. The trail is dotted with graves,
104 most the final resting place of ambitious prospectors search-
The Hummer EV is both supremely capable and comfortable for ing for gold in the hills of California. Our team was also pros-
a trip like the Road of the Devil. | There is a solitude to the desert
that calls me home, enhanced by exploring with good friends, great
pecting, testing the possibility of crossing such distances only
campsites, and lingering sunsets. consuming electrons. Travel does take so many forms, and all
are worth pursuing.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

HISTORIC ASHLEY GIORDANO
PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANK
AND HELEN SCHREIDER

INDONESIA BY AMPHIBIOUS JEEP

Frank and Helen Schreider’s search for paradise in a troubled time. 107

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023


108
A delay as the sea rose (but before the propeller
began slicing through the water) meant guts and
faith were required for launch. | Opening page:
Friends and family gather to wish the Schreiders
S\JR K\YPUN [OL SH\UJO VM [OLPY ÄYZ[ HTWOPIPV\Z
Jeep, ;VY[\NH0
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
F rank and Helen Schreider were
preparing to leave for the island of
Flores, Indonesia, when the village chief in
Komodo brought bad news. “There is no
road at Labuhan Badjo,” he said, running a
calloused thumb eastward over their map.
“It starts here, at Reo.” Their map of Flores
clearly showed a road, but the chief was
adamant. “There is no road.”
Trusting the local intel, the Schreiders
recharted their course. The extra detour
by land and sea would drain their fuel
and water tanks long before they reached
Bajdo. With no chance to send for more
gasoline to fuel their amphibious Jeep,
Helen and Frank studied tide charts and
US Navy nautical books, hoping for an
obvious solution. But as the sky darkened,
heavy waves crashed while the air’s sweet
smell predicted rain. Monsoon season was
quickly approaching, reminding the Sch-
reiders that half a thousand miles of un-
predictable conditions remained, poten-
tially threatening their trans-Indonesian
expedition.
In 1961, American explorers Helen
and Frank Schreider, and their trusty
German shepherd, Dinah, embarked on
a 5,000-mile National Geographic assign-
ment along the Indonesian chain of is-
lands from Sumatra to East Timor. Their
vessel, Tortuga II (the Spanish word for
“turtle”), was a WWII-surplus-seafaring
Jeep modified to travel by road and by wa-
ter—an intentional choice to traverse an
archipelago of over 18,000 islands stretch-
ing nearly to the Australian coast and bor-
dered by the Indian and Pacific oceans.
The 30-something adventurers met at
the University of California in Los Angeles,
where Frank studied engineering and Hel-
en majored in fine arts. They tied the knot
in 1947 and spent their honeymoon bush-
whacking for eight days through 200 miles
of Mexican jungle in a different Jeep, un-
successfully penetrating the roadless track
in southern Costa Rica.
Frank served in the US Navy’s subma-
rine service in the Pacific during World War
II. According to Helen, he was an enthu-
siastic reader during childhood, which re-
sulted in a passionate desire for travel. With
a shock of thick brown hair, a knack for me-
chanical problem-solving, and the ability to
winch the bulky Tortuga II out of just about
any predicament, Frank was also the man
behind the typewriter, undertaking much of
the writing.
An avid drawer and painter, Helen took
most of the photographs during the couple’s
expeditions. Whether she was piloting Tor-
tuga II up the Ganges River in India or wild
camping on Indonesian beaches, her crisp
sundresses and well-tailored outfits dis-
played an elegance and put-togetherness
of the time. Don’t let her wide smile and
knack for pulling off a short pixie cut fool
you, though. While she didn’t enjoy cross-
ing shallow reefs or pushing the limits of
the Jeep’s camber off-pavement, Frank mar-
veled at his wife’s ability to remain calm,
quietly murmuring encouragement during
raging sea storms off the coast of Panama or
in response to concerning sounds emanat-
ing from Tortuga II’s engine while grinding
up a steep shingle beach at Timor. Her re-
sponse to Frank’s seemingly wild and crazy
ideas was often, “When do we leave?”
The inception of the Indonesian expe-
dition arose five years earlier, on a journey
from Alaska to Argentina. At a busy Pe-
ruvian café in Callao, with views of ocean
swells and soaring gulls, an elderly Dutch-
man invited them to join his table. “I would
have given anything to have had a vehicle
like yours when I was in the Indies,” he said,
referring to the first amphibious Jeep they
used to bridge roadless sections of the Pan-
American Highway.
Over cold pisco sours, the former tea
planter told the Schreiders of Komodo’s
dragon lizards and Lubu tribesmen who
lived in trees and hunted with blowpipes.
“On the green cool nights, with the rice
fields silver in the moonlight, he used to sit
under a banyan tree on Java and listen to
the music of the gamelan or watch a shadow
play,” reads Frank and Helen’s travelogue,
The Drums of Tonkin. The Dutchman con-
tinued, “That was paradise on earth.”
However, when the Schreiders landed
in traffic-filled Jakarta, they were greeted by
a troubled country in a state of emergency
where journalists were under special surveil-
lance. “This then—ruinous inflation, ban-
ditry, civil war, martial law—was the state of
affairs when we arrived in Indonesia,” Frank
wrote. But they weren’t in the country to
report on President Sukarno’s nationalist
agenda or bandit terrorism. The couple was
searching for something else: “the Indonesia
of laughter and music, of dancing, painting
and sculpture, the Indonesia whose cultural
heritage, both indigenous and imported, at
one time made it the greatest country in
Southeast Asia.”
To access this “paradise on earth,” the
Schreiders needed to jump through sev-
eral hoops. First, they required a vehicle fit
for the journey. The couple sourced a Ford
GPA “Seep”—the amphibious version of
the WWII Ford GPW Jeep—from a sur-
plus depot in California. Because the Seep’s
WWII production was quickly terminated
due to poor field performance (“It had the
unpopular habit of sinking with no more
provocation than a ripple,” Frank noted),
the couple’s work was cut out to trans-
form the blundering beast into a liveaboard
boat truck.
A propeller at the rear and a rudder con-
nected to the steering wheel by steel cable
made the vehicle seaworthy, while drive
shafts running to all four wheels allowed
the Schreiders to eventually leave Jakarta,
breathing in the scent of frangipani and
chilis cooking in coconut oil as they passed What the Schreiders thought would be a gener-
ous supply of tinned food was reduced to a few
nearby fishing villages. The 15-foot Tortuga 109
cans of hard biscuits and a jar of jam by the time
II was equipped with a dual-cooling system they reached Flores. | Rough going on an ox cart
for sea travel, a calibrated compass, and a track in Southern Mexico during the couple’s
chart table for navigation. The enclosed gal- Pan-American expedition. | Frank brought a type-
writer to log their trip through Indonesia.
ley featured an alcohol stove and tiny sink
with water piped from a 10-gallon tank in
the bow. Cabinets held enough tinned food
for two months off-grid, and fuel tanks car-
ried enough gasoline for 150 miles at sea or
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
 ONE MORNING, AFTER THEY MADE A
WRONG TURN WHILE DRIVING TO THE
PREREQUISITE GOVERNMENT OFFICES
TO SECURE ADDITIONAL PERMITS, A
SENTRY MAN SHOT AT THEIR VEHICLE
WITH A .30-CALIBER GUN.
Top: Rain turned the mountain roads of Flores
into a series of fording quests; at one, they spent
several hours winching up a steep bank. | Left:
Dinah, the Schreiders’ German shepherd, spent
most of her 11 years traveling the world by Jeep.
| One can only imagine what kind of response a
110 seafaring Jeep elicited from these pedestrians in
California.
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
270 miles on land. The Standard Vacuum
Oil Company arranged for 300 additional
gallons of gasoline and motor oil to be deliv-
ered by prahu, a traditional Indonesian sail-
boat, to the main islands along their route.
Painted white with cherry red wheels,
Tortgua II turned heads wherever it went. In
Jakarta, the seafaring Jeep evoked big grins
and thumbs-ups from local traffic police,
who exclaimed, “Bagus, tuan!” or “Okay, sir!”
in response. Outside the capital, the strange
“land ship” attracted children by what Frank
described as “that unexplainable aura that
exudes from anything or anyone strange
to the countryside,” drawing the elders to
investigate and invite Frank and Helen,
once they confirmed their nationality was
American and not Dutch, to their village to
observe a ceremony or share a cup of tea.
The next logistical challenge was a bu-
reaucratic one. The Schreiders were required
to register with the local police across the
country, securing permits to take photo-
graphs, eventually leaving Jakarta with a let-
ter from the colonel of military intelligence
requesting all authorities assist them on
their journey. One morning, after they made
a wrong turn while driving to the prerequi-
site government offices to secure additional
permits, a sentry man shot at their vehicle
with a .30-caliber gun. Arriving at the mili-
tary commandant’s office, the officer smiled
apologetically. “But you know, Indonesia is
in a state of war and emergency.”
A basic understanding of Indonesia’s
complicated political and economic climate
during the Schreiders’ visit in the early 1960s
requires a brief history lesson on the coun-
try’s path to independence and the events
that spiraled from it. Indonesia proclaimed
independence on August 17, 1945, marking
an end to Japan’s World War II occupation
and 350 years of Dutch colonial rule—at
least temporarily. Only after another four
years of guerrilla warfare, in which Dutch
forces burned villages and carried out mass
detentions, torture, and executions, were the
Indonesians granted independence (minus
West Papua, but that’s another story).
Indonesian scholar and historian Dr.
Taufik Abdullah identifies a multi-faceted
Indonesian identity in the 1950s—a coun-
try that had achieved independence and was
working toward democracy, press freedom,
and a new constitution; and an Indonesia
plagued by political instability, institutional
weakness, and a struggle for power. The In-
donesian people had experienced a war and
a revolution. “It was also a post-colonial
state, which implied it was primarily de-
signed to control and extract, not to support
a nation and guarantee citizenship,” Abdul-
 Clockwise from top right: ;VY[\NH0 at the megalithic
Gate of the Sun, in Tiahuanaco, Bolivia. | Helen pilots
;VY[\NH00 along the Ganges River in India. | Plotting a
course involved measuring distances and calculating
speed and time—all of which went out the window dur-
111
ing an unpredictable course at sea. | A road crew helped
Frank and Helen push ;VY[\NH0 to Ushuaia, Argentina,
^OLYLP[ILJHTL[OLÄYZ[]LOPJSL[VHYYP]LI`P[ZV^U
power on January 23, 1956. |(SVJHSÄZOLYTHUSLUKZOPZ
expertise, discussing a route up the coast of Lombok.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023


The once ubiquitous bamboo parasols, or chha-
112 tris, lined the banks of the Ganga of Varanasi,
India. Today, the centuries-old tradition is under
threat of dying out. | The couple relied on tide
charts, the book of Sailing Directions of the US
/`KYVNYHWOPJ 6ɉJL, and out-of-date maps for
navigation. | Crossing Lake Todos los Santos
near Osorno Volcano, Chile.
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
lah wrote in Indonesia: Towards Democracy
in 2009.
By the early 1960s, a power struggle was
well underway between President Sukarno,
the army, the Communist Party, and rebel
groups. Sukarno called for strict govern-
ment control, curtailing freedom of the
press, radio, speech, assembly, and move-
ment. That was a problem for two jour-
nalists looking to journey to the far-flung
reaches of the country.
A few miles out of Jakarta, Frank and
Helen sighed deeply, relishing the scents of
freshly churned earth and drying coconut
flesh. “Away from the suffocation of Ja-
karta’s delicately balanced protocol and red
tape, its tensions and superficial gaiety, its
restrictions and registrations, we felt a new
lightness and freedom,” Frank wrote. In
Bali, amid Galungan festival celebrations,
the pair attended a cremation ceremony.
Flames licked at the wooden cremation
tower, which was decorated with gold and
silver streamers and glass chips. Shouts rang
out to frighten evil spirits while an orches-
tra of “bamboo rattles, flutes and xylophones
played a happy melody.” On Lombok, the
Schreiders were invited to attend a circum-
cision ceremony from a neighboring village
chief and joined a celebratory feast com-
plete with buffalo meat curry and “mounds
of rice, eggs fried in coconut oil, tiny silver
fish eaten whole” and cone-shaped sugared
rice and coconut.
Eventually, the duo arrived in Komodo
to observe the renowned 5-foot dragon liz-
ards named after the island. But with half
a thousand miles to go to Timor and an
approaching monsoon season, they didn’t
have time to linger as they liked and quickly
prepared to leave for Flores, the next largest
island to the east. Komodo was where the
local chief informed the Schreiders that the
road they so desperately needed no longer
existed.
Despite the risk of draining their fuel
and water tanks well before reaching land,
Frank and Helen took off from Komodo in
the early morning. Opting to use the ebbing
current to push the Jeep toward Flores, the
route was the shortest but far from the saf-
est. However, there was a slim chance that
if they used the current to their advantage,
they might reach Flores before their tanks
ran dry. “Rocks and islands sped by at what
seemed full-throttle speed with but a whis-
per from Tortuga’s exhaust,” Frank wrote.
“And the sea life, heretofore shy of an en-
gine’s foreign sound, was bolder.” Leaping
marlin and graceful whale sharks, leaving a
trail of bubbles, kept them company while
6-foot-long sea snakes swished through the
translucent water beside the Jeep.
As Helen and Frank continued along
the coast, their charts, which were the most
up-to-date available, became more inaccu-
rate. No extensive survey had been complet-
ed of the area since before World War II.
Unexpected reefs appeared, and landmarks
to plot vanished. Using a bamboo pole to
check the depth before crossing shallow
waters above glowing mauve reefs, they
spotted blue starfish and spiny black sea ur-
chins. “By the fifth day out of Komodo, our
spare fuel tanks were dry, our main tank was
considerably less than full, and our drink-
ing water was almost gone,” Frank wrote.
The gas gauge developed an “erratic flutter”
while the waves rocked Tortuga at precipi-
tous angles.
By the time they were 15 miles from
Reo, the gas gauge had stopped fluttering,
hanging instead at the empty mark. “We
looked for a place to land, but dark scrub
jungle and mangrove roots reached like fin-
gers into the sea,” Frank wrote. “There was
no place to beach Tortuga.” The Schreiders
crept closer to shore for another hour, the
fuel pump sucking air while the engine
sputtered. Finally, with only four miles of
fuel remaining, they landed on a smooth
beach on the outskirts of Reo. A surprised
crowd gathered on the beach; one of the
men brought a coconut for Helen.
But within minutes of their arrival, a
truck sped down the road from the main
part of town. Frank noticed a “strange hush
fell over the crowd” as the truck “careened
over a small bridge and skidded to a stop
near an old concrete pillbox.” Restraining
a growling Dinah, the Schreiders eyed the
Indonesian Army lieutenant joined by a
platoon of helmeted soldiers as they inun-
dated the crowd. Strapped with submachine
guns and automatic rifles fitted with bayo-
nets, the crew sported “the mottled jungle-
combat camouflage uniform of olive-drab
and green.”

How ironic, thought Frank, to sweat
out the long voyage from Komodo only to
become the major characters in an “inci-
dent” on Flores. The sergeant, approaching
the couple, reached to grab something
from a wooden case in the back of the
truck. “Welcome to Flores,” he said, and
with a wide grin, handed them a bottle of
warm beer.
As Frank and Helen’s 5,000-mile,
13-month Indonesian expedition drew to
a close, they knew they had experienced
much of what the old Dutchman idealized
about the country. But, as Frank wrote,
“We had found so much more.”
Shortly after, the Schreiders were hired
full-time by National Geographic. Their
next assignments involved exploring Af-
rica’s Great Rift Valley by Land Rover, fol-
lowing in the footsteps of Alexander the
Great from Greece to India (also by Land
Rover), and, finally, mapping and navigat-
ing the length of the Amazon River.
LEAPING MARLIN AND GRACEFUL WHALE
SHARKS, LEAVING A TRAIL OF BUBBLES,
KEPT THEM COMPANY WHILE 6-FOOT-LONG
SEA SNAKES SWISHED THROUGH THE
TRANSLUCENT WATER BESIDE THE JEEP.
The couple continued with National
Geographic until 1970. Frank went on to
write as a freelancer and continued his
seabound capers aboard his boat, Sassafras.
He died suddenly of a heart attack while
moored in Crete on January 21, 1994.
Helen joined the National Park Service
as a museum designer and continues to paint
to this day. At age 89, she was inducted as a
National Fellow into the Explorers Club in
2015. Frank was made a member in 1956,
but the club didn’t allow women until 1981.
The Schreiders published several books,
including 20,000 Miles South: A Pan Ameri-
can Adventure (1957), The Drums of Tonkin: Top: “What lay ahead was still a mystery, and
An Adventure in Indonesia (1963), and Ex- I remember feeling the force of that nameless
ploring the Amazon (1963). attraction that makes men do foolish things for
no reason except to see what lies beyond the 113
next mountain—or the next island,” Frank wrote
in The Drums of Tonkin. | Right: Helen has pro-
duced a great number of paintings and draw-
ings during her lifetime. She is currently 97 and
resides in Santa Rosa, California. | A photo of the
Schreiders in Greece in 1993, a year before Frank
passed away.
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
21
OVERLAND ROUTES
KARIN-MARIJKE VIS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY COEN WUBBELS

Unless you fly in, you will have seen a fair share of the Ata-
cama Desert by the time you reach Iquique, whether your Pan-
CHILȄS ATACAMA American overland journey takes you southbound or northbound
through Chile. No matter how smooth the asphalt that cuts
DESERT straight through the driest non-polar desert in the world, 995
miles of driving through it is a lot to take in. Vast expanses of peb-
bles alternating with dunes and beaches made it a perfect setting
for a number of Dakar Rally stages, with the climax of blasting
down an almost vertical dune just south of Iquique. Fortunately,
the Atacama is more than a seemingly endless sandbox. The desert
breathes history, culture, and economic wealth—as well as decline.
This four-day route, 200 miles from Chile’s northern border with
Peru, will allow you to see the best of it, including ancient art 115
and modern history and an incredible variety of scenery. From
the desert and the coastal towns of Iquique and Pisagua, roads
lead to the altiplano (high plains), where you’ll have the company
of llamas, vicuñas, and flamingos. Amidst the colorful palette of
mountains are hot springs and salt lakes; you may also enjoy the
view of the mighty Isluga stratovolcano and adobe villages with
white-plastered homes and churches.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 GENERAL INFORMATION
The calm of the desert may be misleading; at first sight, it
feels as if nothing ever could have happened here. Yet, long be-
fore the Spanish colonized the continent, ethnic groups lived
here, mainly along the coast. They left tangible remains of their
lives through geoglyphs—figures created by removing stones or
sand to make the contrast between the image and background
visible. Early in the 19th century, the discovery of sodium
nitrate changed the region forever. It was mined for the pro-
duction of fertilizer and the manufacture of explosives. At its
peak, the industry included 170 mines in operation, providing
economic prosperity for 200,000 people. After the Germans
invented synthetic fertilizer in the early 1900s, the nitrate in-
dustry gradually collapsed. Humberstone and the Santa Laura
Factory, near Iquique, stand testimony to the heyday of nitrate
mining and are UNESCO World Heritage Sites well worth a
visit. The nitrate boom influenced the highlanders as well. They
left the mountains to find economic prosperity in coastal towns,
their homes turning into so-called ceremonial villages. Many
kept their herds of llamas or alpacas, employing shepherds hired
from Bolivia. Even today, former highlanders return for cer-
emonies and festivities, such as the Fiesta de las Flores, when
they count and brand the newborns in the herd.
It is a good idea to read up on altitude sickness before you
go. Due to the sudden increase of elevation from the coast to
the high plains, slow acclimatization is well-nigh impossible.
Some people have no problems, while others feel dizzy, get
headaches, or, more seriously, altitude sickness. Make sure you
know what the symptoms are (headache, vomiting, insomnia,
and reduced performance and coordination), and if you have
them, head down immediately to lower elevations. To minimize
the chance of getting altitude sickness, drink lots of water and
eat very little, preferably sticking to non-fatty foods. Refraining
from drinking alcohol helps, too.
THE DRIVE
In Iquique, stock up on water, fuel, and food, as you may
have no other options until the end of day two in Pisagua. The
145-mile drive starts with a zigzag uphill on Ruta 16, which
takes you to the ghost town of Humberstone and the Santa
Laura Factory. From here, be sure to have sufficient fuel for the
next 370 miles. Take a tip from us and fill up at one of the
two fuel stations two miles south, and head north on Ruta 5,
Chile’s section of the Pan-American Highway. Turn right onto
Ruta 15; on your left, you will see the Gigante de Tarapacá, a
390-foot-long anthropomorphic geoglyph. Easy driving across
asphalt takes you to the altiplano. Turn left onto A-487 and
116
meander across a gravel road to Puchuldiza’s geothermal field
at 13,800 feet. Pitch your vehicle or tent in the solitude of bare
mountains, clear rivulets, and blue pools lined with sparkling
white salt. Take a bath in the man-made pool and rise early
because the steaming geysers are seen best around sunrise.
To start the 175-mile trip today, return the 15 miles to Ruta
15 and head north for 20 miles. In case you run short on fuel,
drive on to the Bolivian border and ask if locals sell fuel, possi-
bly from plastic canisters. Otherwise, turn west onto the A-385.
Consider deflating the tires as you hit gravel for the 75-mile,
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
gorgeous ride through Volcán Isluga National Park. You’ll move
across the altiplano with mountain slopes dusted in a soft pal-
ette of ochre and orange tinges, with grazing alpacas and aban-
doned villages such as Isluga and its beautiful, white-plastered
church. An optional slight detour will take you to Caraguano,
two miles south of Enquelga. Spend the night there and enjoy a
thermal bath or take a hike in the countryside.
The road continues to climb to 13,450 feet, with the Isluga
Volcano off in the distance. The patches of moss on the rocks,
lloreta compacta, were the area’s only source of fuel for centuries,
but due to overharvesting, it is now a protected plant. After 29
miles, you reach a fork and turn left. At 15,255 feet, you cross
the Portezuelo de Huinchuta Pass with a Pachamama shrine
consisting of a pyramid of stones. Here, people offer drinks to
Mother Earth for a safe journey.
The road zigzags downhill through a barren landscape home
to the candelabra tree. In the valley below lies Camiña amidst
agricultural fields; the surplus of its harvest is sold in coastal
cities. Smooth asphalt cuts downhill through the desert. Cross
Ruta 5, after which the road plunges spectacularly down two
dunes with the blue ocean in sight ahead of you. The port town
of Pisagua fell into decay after the nitrate mining collapsed but
has retained some of its charm, perhaps due to its seaside loca-
tion and the remains of once-grand buildings. Check out the
cemetery in the dunes, with a memorial next to the mass grave
from the Pinochet era. You can free camp on the beach.
Return to Ruta 5, fill up at Pozo Almonte, and continue
south to the Cerros Pintados. From a distance, you’ll spot the
hills covered with some 400 geoglyphs, dating from 500-1400
CE. The “Painted Hills” have a visitor center and a dead-end
trail with explanatory panels. Search for the details and unique
images among the typical llamas and lizards, such as a huge
arrow pointing down such as that you’d find at an airport, indi-
cating a travelers’ meeting point. There are also one or two men
on what seem to be skis but which are, in fact, boats made of
inflated sea lion skins.
Take the paved A-75 back into gorgeous altiplano scenery.
The region boasts salt plains and lakes, the famous Salar de
Uyuni being right across the Bolivian border. You’ll spot herds
of llamas and flocks of flamingos. At Salar de Huasco (12,465
feet), pick a spot to camp for the night, and go for a hike late
in the day (or early morning) when the sun is less brutal and il-
luminates the landscape in soft hues. Bring out your chairs and
a drink while you marvel as the daylight fades, the sky darkens,
and stars pop up, one at a time. Wild camping doesn’t get much
better than this.
The return to Iquique is an easygoing 104 miles. Backtrack
seven miles and turn right onto the A-651. Back on Ruta 5, you
turn left at Humberstone to reach Iquique. Enjoy a paragliding
flight or stroll downtown on the pedestrians-only streets. Check
out the Museo Regional de Iquique to learn about the Chin-
chorro indigenous people and the nitrate industry, or the Museo
Naval De Iquique, which showcases Chile’s naval history. For a
good meal, head for the Restaurante Casino Español, with its
unique old-world interior.
WAYPOINT

LEFT COLUMN
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RIGHT COLUMN
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OPENING PAGE
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OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 ACCESS CONTACTS
>OLUÅ`PUNPUIVVRHÅPNO[[V*H]HUJOH(PYWVY[TPSLZ RECOMMENDED HOSPITALS IN CHILE internationalinsurance.com/
south of Iquique, and rent a vehicle onsite. hospitals/chile
REGIONAL HOSPITAL OF IQUIQUE, 24-HOUR ER hospitaliquique.cl,
If you’re overlanding, you’ll most likely arrive in Iquique via +56 57 240 5700
Ruta 5, the Pan-American Highway that cuts through the US EMBASSY IN CHILE cl.usembassy.gov
Atacama Desert. REGISTRY OF MUSEUMS OF CHILE (HUMBERSTONE)
registromuseoschile.cl
LOGISTICS COUNCIL OF NATIONAL MONUMENTS OF CHILE (PISAGUA)
monumentos.gob.cl
TOTAL MILES 600
SUGGESTED TIME 4 days
365.,:;+0:;(5*,>0;/6<;-<,3 370 miles RESOURCES
It is recommended that the traveler utilize redundant GPS
FUEL SOURCES devices (like a phone and a dedicated GPS), along with paper
Fuel sources are scarce. Apart from in Iquique, there are maps and a compass. This track, along with all other Overland
two fuel stations on Ruta 5 at Pozo Almonte (two miles Routes, can be downloaded on our website at overlandjournal.
south of Humberstone); both are open 24 hours. com/overland-routes/.
COPEC 20°14̩14.4̯S, 69°47̩11.3̯W
PETROBRAS 20°15̩44.3̯S, 69°47̩08.4̯W

DIFFICULTY (2.0 out of 5.0)

Part of the journey is on asphalt and part on gravel, and it
is doable by 2WD. Only the section around Isluga may have
some rocky, potholed areas requiring a high-clearance vehicle.

WHEN TO GO
The weather is pretty stable throughout the year, around 61-
72°F, with very little rain, making this a year-round destination.

PERMITS AND FEES

No permits are required. Entrance fees are needed for
Humberstone (4,000 pesos), Thermos de Puchuldiza (around
3,000 pesos), and Cerros Pintados (4,000 pesos). Note that
Cerros Pintados is closed on Mondays.

Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

SUGGESTED CAMPSITES
PUCHULDIZA
Wild camp, 13.800 feet
 ‡̩̯:‡̩̯>

PISAGUA
Wild camp, sea level
 ‡̩̯:‡̩̯>

SALAR DE HUASCO
Wild camp, 12.465 feet

21
118 ‡̩̯:‡̩̯>
Overland Route descriptions are intended to be an overview of the
PLAYA LOBITO trail rather than turn-by-turn instructions. We suggest you download
Wild camp, nine miles south of Iquique at sea level; HUVɊPULUH]PNH[PVUHWWHUKV\Y.7?[YHJRHZ^LSSHZZV\YJL
detailed paper maps as an analog backup. As with any remote travel,
numerous camping spots along the coast moving circumstances can change dramatically. Drivers should check road
south from Iquique conditions with local authorities before attempting the route and be
‡̩̯:‡ ̩̯> ready to turn back should extreme conditions occur.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

120
OVERLAND CONSERVATION ASHLEY GIORDANO

IDAHO OVERLAND
ASSOCIATION
PRIORITIZING LAND ACCESS
AND COMMUNITY, ONE CLEANUP
AT A TIME.

Alexandria Lewis says the Idaho Overland Association was born

out of staying at campgrounds with her young, screaming children.
“That was not fun for them or for me, so we started researching—
where else can we go camping?” Idaho is rich with Bureau of Land
Management and forest service land, so Lewis and her family start-
ed heading to those sites more frequently.

As they broadened their outdoor explorations—eventually opening

as a local overland distributor in Idaho Falls—they noticed many
locations were completely trashed. “It’s so easy for BLM or US For-
est Service to say, ‘We’re done’ and lock it up. If we’re encouraging

Images courtesy of the Idaho Overland Association

families to get out and explore, we wanted to do something more.”

:V 3L^PZ MV\UKLK [OL 0KHOV 6]LYSHUK (ZZVJPH[PVU H UVUWYVÄ[

membership-based organization that brings like-minded commu-
nity members together for cleanup events and service projects. “I
think what I like most about the association is it’s not just a club,”
Lewis says. “It’s not a Jeep club or a Toyota club. There are people
^P[OHSSKPɈLYLU[IHJRNYV\UKZ¹

)YH]PUN [OLPY ÄYZ[ ^PU[LY JHTW VM  TLTILYZ NH[OLYLK MVY H
service project at City of Rocks National Reserve in Almo, Idaho, in
early January. Association member Jacob Lewis says winter condi-
[PVUZJHUJOHSSLUNLWHYRYHUNLYZTHRPUNP[KPɉJ\S[[VRLLWW\ISPJ
recreation areas operational in winter months.
“Just before our arrival, they received several more inches of snow,
which put our plans of clearing debris from popular trails out of
reach. Instead, we were able to snowshoe into several day use and
overnight areas to clear walking paths to restroom and picnic areas
for other visitors to use.” Yearly events vary seasonally, including
winter preparedness courses, trail cleanups, meet-and-greets, and
track construction and maintenance.
GET INVOLVED
The $30 yearly membership dues help with basic administration
JVZ[ZHUKZ\WWSPLZMVYZLY]PJLWYVQLJ[Z(KKP[PVUHSTLTILYILULÄ[Z
include a monthly newsletter, involvement in virtual meetings, and
discounts with local companies. A portion of the fee goes to Camp
Hayden, a program that creates accessible adventures such as zip-
lining, backcountry ATV rides, and horseback riding for children
and adults with disabilities. idahooverland.org

3HZ[`LHY(SL_HUKYPHOVZ[LK[OLHZZVJPH[PVU»ZÄYZ[^VTLU»ZL]LU[
a camping trip in Stanley, Idaho. “It helps inspire women to do this
by themselves or with a group,” she says. “They all left wanting to
do it again.” This year will see an expansion of the organization’s
events, including women in the wilderness, hiking, and camping
courses.
Ultimately, one of Alexandria’s missions is to help preserve Idaho’s
public lands for future generations. “[The association] gives me
hope that when [my kids] get older, these public lands will still be
open and accessible.”
121
The Idaho Overland Association held its
ÄYZ[HUU\HSSHKPLZJHTWH[[OL:HSTVU
Challis National Forest in east-central
Idaho. | This service project involved
cleaning up miles of BLM land around
the Snake River near Menan, Idaho.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

SKILLS GRAEME BELL
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GRAEME BELL,
LUISA BELL, AND MICHNUS OLIVIER

Come Rain or Shine

Prepare for and survive turbulent
123
weather when overlanding.

OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

 M ore than a decade ago, we camped
in a large wooded campsite in
Punta del Este, a coastal town in Uruguay.
Despite extensive overland travel in Africa,
we were relative rookies. It was our first
night in South America, the Defender had
been released from the port of Montevideo
the day before, and the family had flown
over from South Africa two weeks before
that. Our setup was simple and old school—
a sizable four-sleeper rooftop tent (the type
most commonly used on travel trailers), an
annex that created a living space, and a rear
load system. The evening had passed qui-
etly with an asado (barbecue) and a glass of
wine to celebrate the true beginning of our
grand adventure, but later we were rudely
124 awoken by the sound of flapping canvas and
heavy raindrops. Little did we know that we
were about to head into a three-day hurri-
cane that lashed throughout the region and
eventually downed trees in the woods be-
side us. No one warned us that a storm was
impending (if they did, we likely did not
understand them), and in the excitement of
the last few days, we had neglected to check
the weather forecast. The hurricane battered
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
us mercilessly with only a brief respite as
the eye of the storm brought a wet blue sky
and pale sun. On the last day, as trees began
to fall around us, we admitted defeat and
sought refuge.
Over the years, we have suffered numer-
ous encounters with severe weather and
have learned a few hard-earned lessons.
PREPARE FOR THE WORST
When planning a route, consider the
weather you will most likely encounter and
equip your vehicle accordingly. From sand
storms and heat waves to blizzards and
hurricanes, seasonal extremes are generally
predictable, and a well-prepared traveler is
a safe traveler. For instance, for the winter
months, ensure you have sufficient winter
clothing (layers, boots, gloves, and headgear)
and bedding. Imagine that whatever heat-
ing source you have will fail and that the
vehicle might suffer a terminal breakdown
somewhere remote. The same applies to the
summer months, but consideration needs to
be made for cooling (shade, fans, hats, sun-
screen) and hydration. The most common
yet simultaneously unpredictable weather
system is the summer thunderstorm, which
will batter and drench your camp or pepper
your windscreen with hail. Regardless of the
season, high winds often present the most
significant threat, and your vehicle should
be equipped accordingly, preferably with an
option to sleep inside.
KEEP AN EYE ON THE FORECAST
Modern weather forecasting is generally
reliable, and there are many online sources
to choose from, depending on where you
are. We all have smartphones, and inter-
net availability is expanding rapidly to the
most remote areas of the planet. A regional
10-day calculation will provide relatively
accurate information, and you should plan
accordingly. Mountainous and “wet” regions
tend to be less predictable, forecasts are less
precise, and weather conditions can vary sig-
nificantly over short distances due to eleva-
tion fluctuations, wind patterns, and local-
ized storms. In hurricane-prone areas such
as Central America, if your smartphone
location is turned on, you will likely receive
warnings of impending storms, which you
would be wise to heed. Chatting with locals
when stocking up on supplies and filling
up with fuel is a good idea, as they know
the weather patterns well and may have in-
formation or insight that a forecasting app
does not.
Weather apps can be of great use, but,
like with most things, some are better than
others. Also, why use a weather app or ser-
vice when you could ask Google? Bear in
mind that each weather app has access to
varying sources of model data; therefore,
predictions may differ from one app to
another for the same location. In general,
10- or 7-day forecasts are most useful for
us: we just want to know if it will be raining
or blistering hot all week, and that infor-
mation will inform us whether we head to
the mountains (for the cool) or the beach
to escape a cold front. A quick check of
the weather app in the morning should see
you right for the rest of the day, and if you
need to know how warm, wet, or cold it is
after that, stick your head out the window.
In general, the meteorological apps and ser-
vices will advise the up-to-the-minute and
forecasted temperature, precipitation, wind,
humidity, cloud coverage, tides, and wave
height, and some are available offline.
(**<>,(;/,9 is widely reported as the
most reliable weather app, but the website
is clunky and full of pop-ups, while the
app wants to know your political affilia-
tion, shoe size, and what you had for dinner
three weeks ago. Also, it is not free, and the
predictions would need to be significantly
more accurate than other free apps to war-
rant an investment.
;/, >,(;/,9 */(55,3 website and app
provide all the usual weather informa-
tion with a smattering of weather-related
news, a cloud break of advertisements, and
a host of clickbait articles—the Buzzfeed of
weather apps.
;/,>05+@(77is recognized by the World
Meteorological Organization as the best
sports and outdoors app. Windy is a profes-
sional weather app created for sports, surf-
ing, fishing, sailing, and general outdoor fun.
The user experience is mid-way between
The Weather Channel and Wind Guru.
>05+.<9<is the weather service of choice
for surfers and kite surfers with engineering
degrees and a deep love of charts and pure,
raw, precise data. Wind Guru is unapolo-
getically geek-centric and will naturally ap-
peal to nerds who don’t need a white smile
and a green screen to decipher which way
the wind blows or will blow.
TAKE EVASIVE ACTION
The severity of the predicted or experi-
TIP
enced weather should determine the level of
evasion, from seeking a highway overpass to Nose to the wind is usually the
best option. Camping high and
shelter from a storm to changing direction
dry is the goal, and it is best to
entirely to settling down for a few days in a
avoid sheltering under swaying
hotel, Airbnb, or the most protected camp- trees or in a dry river bed prone
site. Even when on a very tight budget, it is [VÅHZOÅVVKZ
better to seek the shelter of brick and mor-
tar than to try and outlast a severe storm, Do not camp below the coastal
risking expensive damage to the vehicle or high water mark, as storms at
harm to yourself. However, finding struc- sea might cause large waves
tural shelter is often not an option, and you and extraordinarily high tides.
may have to ride out the storm in the open.
In our experience, the wind is the most
constant threat regardless of season (hard-
side campers fare much better than canvas).
Finding a windbreak to camp behind can be
a solution, but the wind will be sneaky and
unpredictable and may change direction af-
ter sunset (most common on the beach and
in deserts). Wind can topple trees and rip
canvas, pollute the air with dust, and keep
you up all night; parking broadside to the
wind will only make matters worse. Nose to
the wind is usually the best option. Camp-
ing high and dry is the goal, and it is best
to avoid sheltering under swaying trees
or in a dry river bed prone to flash floods.
No matter how tempting it may be, do not 125
camp below the coastal high water mark, as
storms at sea might cause large waves and
Opposite, clockwise from left: Sometimes, a
extraordinarily high tides. traveler has no choice but to keep going until the
weather improves. | Waiting out a storm is often
PREPARE CAMP the only solution; your gear should be up to the
The weather may change suddenly, and challenge of inclement weather. | A late-summer
storm brews in Southern Patagonia. | Opening
sometimes there is no option but to shelter page: Mountainous terrain tends to be unpre-
in place, especially if camping off-grid far dictable. Preparation, skill, and knowledge are
from civilization. In anticipation of a storm, critical for safe travel.
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
 pack away all camping equipment, extin-
guish the campfire (high winds and embers
can lead to catastrophe; some storms bring
no significant rain), secure the tent, affix
or remove the rain flap, close the awning,
take the pooches for a quick pee, move the
vehicle if necessary, dig a drain, cut down
overhanging branches, close the windows,
and open the vents. Please do not wait until
it is too late, running around outside in the
elements, getting drenched while chasing a
flying chair and a runaway dog who is petri-
fied of lightning.
When camping in a region prone to
nightly storms, it is best to secure the camp
before going to bed, even if the sky is clear
and flickering with stars. Losing your tow-
els, shoes, or favorite chair or having the
awning break and collapse due to a sudden
storm is frustrating and expensive.
STAY PUT, BE CALM,
BUT QUIT IF YOU CAN
126 It is a horror movie cliché—instead
of staying inside where it is safe, a young
and attractive idiot will head outside where
whichever creature or psychopath the writer
dreamed up will lob the disappointed actor’s
head off after a dramatic musical score and
a breathless, stumbling scramble. When you
find yourself sitting in your camper being
lashed by a storm, hunker down and wait
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
it out. Try not to scream with every flash of
lighting or every clap of thunder; this helps
no one and only worsens the situation. Play
a game of cards, listen to an audiobook if
you can, enjoy a snack, and periodically peer
at the solid or canvas walls of the camper
with a furrowed brow of concern (this ac-
tion, without doubt, affects the course of the
storm). With all that said, sometimes there
is an option to leave the camper and take
shelter in a nearby building or to drive a few
miles down the road and check into a mo-
tel, hotel, or farmer’s barn—every situation
varies. A calm head with a logical plan will
make good decisions. Nothing is as impor-
tant as your health and safety and that of
your traveling companions.
DEAL WITH THE AFTERMATH
After an exceptional weather event,
you will likely have to deal with the after-
math, be that a vehicle strewn with leaves
and debris; a soaking wet tent, bedding, and
clothing; or a vehicle covered in snow from
a blizzard or dust from a sandstorm. It may
be that the tent was torn by the wind or a
window broken by a falling branch or golf-
ball-sized hail.
Chances are very good that you will
want to leave the area as soon as possible,
but you will first need to tidy up, repack, re-
pair what you can, and ensure that the vehi-
cle is ready and able to leave. The route out
may be blocked, and you will need to dig,
saw, or winch to clear the road. If your ve-
hicle has been prepared for such a situation,
you will have all the tools at your disposal.
After experiencing serious weather—es-
pecially when we traveled with a canvas roof
tent—we feel the need to book into a cottage
and spend a few days relaxing and cleaning,
asking ourselves why we didn’t reserve the
little house before the tempest, saving our-
selves the displeasure of the storm and the
effort of the cleanup. Yes, that’s right, every
situation is unique, and while we try to stay
informed and make the best decisions, life
on the road has ways of throwing surprises
and obstacles in our path. It is the unpre-
dictability of the elements that can lead to a
grand adventure.
Clockwise from left: The Nigerian Highlands are
cool and wet—we drove through mud and rain
for three days in low range. | High winds are a
canvas rooftop tent’s Achilles’ heel, and rain cov-
ers bear the brunt of a storm. A repair kit or spare
rain cover are essential. | Canvas is cool but less
ideal than hard sides for long-distance, long-term
overland travel.
127
CLASSIC KIT ASHLEY GIORDANO
In its time, the Plus Fours Route-
ÄUKLY^H[JO^V\SKOH]LJVZ[
around £5, which is the equiva-
lent of upwards pf $300 today.
The Plus Fours
5RXWHÀQGHU:DWFK
Was this 1920s navigation
device an ultimate failure
or ahead of its time?
I magine chugging down the bumpy
roads of 1920s London in a Ford Mod-
el T, mechanical parts clattering away as you
grip the manual steering wheel, shifting be-
tween high and low gear. Perhaps you are head-
ing for the coastal town of Bournemouth in Dor-
set, England, eager to enjoy a weekend by the
sea. To navigate, you examine a tiny paper map
loaded onto a watch-type device affixed to your
wrist. After each turn, the map—which must
be wound by two black knobs on the side of
the watch—reveals mileage and a “stop” instruc-
tion at the journey’s end. Drive. Scroll. Exam-
ine a minuscule map. Watch for traffic hazards.
Wrangle steering. Navigate London traffic. Was
this tiny navigation gadget ultimately more
hindrance than help?
Believed to be the first navigation device
for motorists, the Plus Fours Routefinder was
made in England in the 1920s. The watch
came with 20 or so route maps, such as
London to Edinburgh or London to Bour-
nemouth, and if motorists wished to turn off
the road, they replaced the map with another
corresponding to a number at the junction. A
separate scroll was required for the return trip,
and if your intended road route wasn’t included in
the set of provided options, more maps could be ordered to 129
cover the entirety of the country. Another potential bonus (and
a clue as to the device’s target demographic) was that the watch
allowed wearers to keep golf scores.
The Plus Fours Routefinder is one of 1,400 inventions and
contraptions owned by Maurice Collins, a retired businessman
from London. “[I] found the Route Finder whilst at an antique
fair in the south of the UK,” he says. “I never found out much
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023

history. It seems to have had a short commercial life, as I’ve
never come across another.” The watch joined a host of other
peculiar items on display at the British Library’s Weird and
Wonderful Inventions and Gadgets exhibition in 2008. “It’s very
amateurish and very simplistic,” Collins spoke of the Route-
finder to the Daily Mail. “Sadly, I’ve never tried it myself, and
I’m not sure how successful it would be as a navigation device.
It’s a bit of an eccentric invention.”
Eccentric, indeed. As a millennial who used paper road
maps and MapQuest printouts before TomTom and Garmin
brought us personal navigation devices, it’s easy to dismiss
this archaic and seemingly impractical device that never re-
ally took off. Why this itty-bitty navigation tool was never
mass-produced is open to debate. Some point to the limited
customer base as vehicles were expensive luxuries limited to
few potential watch-wearers. This makes sense. In 1931, there
were 2.3 million motor vehicles in Great Britain, which then
130 had a population of 46,073,600. Whereas in 2022, approxi-
mately 60 percent of those living in Great Britain owned a
licensed vehicle. I would also suggest the impracticality of
scrolling while driving posed a hazard (sound familiar?).
While there are hundreds of potential reasons why the
Routefinder wasn’t a hit, the idea of a scrolling navigation
device popped up again in the early 1930s with the creation
of the Iter Avto navigation unit. Developed by the Italian
Touring Club, the Iter Avto was a bulky box mounted to your
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
THERE IS A PRESENT-DAY GADGET THAT SHARES SOME OF THE
ROUTEFINDER’S MORE LUDICROUS FEATURES: THE APPLE WATCH.
LOADED WITH THE GOOGLE MAPS APP, USERS REQUIRE LASER-
SHARP VISION TO READ POCKET-SIZED DIRECTIONS STRAPPED
TO THEIR WRISTS WHILE DRIVING.
vehicle dashboard and attached to the speedometer, syncing
long paper scrolls with distance traveled. The maps featured
surprisingly detailed routes, showing bridges, garages, hotels,
and other noteworthy items suited to the wayward traveler’s
desires. Like the Routefinder, the Iter Avto never achieved
mass success. It is unclear whether the Avto was influenced by
the 1920s watch or a product of great minds thinking alike.
Though strangely tiny, the Plus Fours Routefinder watch
lives on within many elements of navigation that we use to-
day. If you pare back current turn-by-turn satellite naviga-
tion, leaving aside the coffee shops, restaurants, attractions,
and fuel stations, you are left with a few basic symbols such as
road lines, arrows, and highway numbers.
Consider the rally roadbook used by moto and quad rac-
ers, for example. Often housed in a box-shaped case secured
between a bike’s handlebars, navigation directions are printed
on a long paper scroll moved manually or electronically by
two circular knobs during racing. This setup is strikingly simi-
lar to the early navigation devices of the 1920s and 1930s
with, of course, a few upgrades such as waterproof casings,
USB-powered LED backlights, and the ability to scroll back-
ward if you miss a turn.
There is a present-day gadget that shares some of the
Routefinder’s more ludicrous features: the Apple Watch.
Loaded with the Google Maps app, users require laser-sharp
vision to read pocket-sized directions strapped to their wrists
while driving. At least the Apple Watch includes haptic feed-
back vibrations to warn of upcoming and erroneous turns and
offers access to other useful features such as health monitor-
ing, sleep tracking, and most apps. And, of course, the ever-
important ability to track golf scores. Perhaps the Routefinder
was ahead of its time, after all.
The device was also displayed at the Curious Contraptions exhibit at
the Standen House in East Sussex in 2008.
131
 OVERLAND CHEF AKELA WORLD
M y boys love blueberry and blackberry pancakes—we
call them heidelbeer-datschi and schwarzbeer-datschi in
Austria—for breakfast. Honestly, it doesn’t matter what time of
day it is. Anytime is a perfect time for pancakes. One time, on
the beautiful island of Tasmania, we parked our truck on top of
a cliff overlooking a sparkling bay. While Leander and I were
preparing our camp for the night, our son, Lennox, jumped out
and started exploring the area around us. After a while, he came
back, bursting with excitement, and told us that he had found
heaps of blackberries growing beside the path leading down to
132 the beach. Apparently, Lennox had not only found them but
also eaten them, as indicated all over his face. Frightened, I fol-
lowed him to the place where he had found the berries, as I was
not sure whether they were real blackberries or possibly poi-
sonous ones. But he was right. Relief poured over me as a new
agenda presented itself. While Lennox stayed there and kept
stuffing blackberries into his mouth, I ran back to the truck, got
a bowl, and started picking the delicious fruits. I think it`s easy
to guess what we used them for.
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
Berry Datschi
Easy-peasy deliciousness—
sweet and simple.
SERVES 4
PREP TIME 15 minutes
COOK TIME 10 minutes
EQUIPMENT two bowls, a pan, whisk, spoon, oil
2 cups berries (blueberries, blackberries,
etc., ideally fresh-picked)
J\WÅV\Y
3 eggs
1 cup milk
Pinch of vanilla sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
Powdered sugar for sprinkling
Put both bowls in front of you, crack the eggs, and separate
them into yolks and egg whites. Take the bowl with the egg
whites and whisk to a firm snow, then put aside. You can also
use a blender, but I like the whisk—it takes longer, but it’s a
good workout and keeps your upper arms in shape. Grab the
bowl with the yolks, put the granulated and vanilla sugars in it,
and mix until frothy. Stir in the flour and milk and whisk until
thick. Fold the egg snow step by step into the batter and mix it
carefully with the whisk. I do not recommend a blender for this
step as it turns too fast and eliminates the froth.
It’s time to heat the oil in a pan. You can use all kinds of
vegetable oil, except cold-pressed ones, as they are unsuitable
for frying—the high temperature required will cause degrada-
tion and alter its flavor. Once the oil gets really hot, drop in 2
tablespoons of batter (or more, depending on your size prefer-
ence), shaping them nicely with a spoon into circles (or not).
Quickly sprinkle the batter with the berries you prefer. Leave
the mixture in the pan to cook for around two minutes per side
before you flip it; the pancakes should be golden brown. Place
the pancakes on a plate and cover them with a kitchen towel
to retain warmth while they wait for the others. When done,
you’ll have four to five pancakes; plate them individually and
sprinkle with powdered sugar. Fini!
133
 Continued from page 136
While Phoebe worried over our lax approach to schooling
for the kids and our daughter’s emotional crises, I turned to
writing. I can write anywhere, anytime: waiting in line at bor-
der crossings; on crowded ferries; in public toilets, with angry
knocks on the door and mosquitoes swarming at my ankles.
After a nice long slog at the keyboard, the beaches, temples, and
local food once again strike me as sweet and fresh. I had found
my parallel groove, my vital masochistic distraction. Phoebe was
left to flounder. Yes, she went on long hikes. Read under palm
trees. Scaled a volcano. But these activities were not enough.
This new lifestyle, which I hoped to extend indeterminately into
the future, gave her no real purpose, no productive essence. The
lines we draw between a life of work and self-worth are hard
to erase when overlanding approxi-
This new lifestyle gave
mates retirement. Better to keep a
Phoebe no real purpose,
hand on the grindstone, as the Bells,
no productive essence.
The lines we draw
Tim and Kelsey, Abigail and Richie,
between a life of work and many of our other digital com-
and self-worth are hard rades know only too well.
to erase when overlanding Of course, we also had fun. We
approximates retirement. met other overlanders and drank
and barbecued late into the night.
We felt the warm glaze of parental pride as our kids, Oliver and
Perry, took on challenges never before baked into their young
lives: rappelling, kite surfing, eating self-harvested mussels,
heading into the night with a shovel and a roll of loo paper. We
toured fascinating places and met fascinating people. These spe-
cial, intimate experiences were ultimately behind my narrow-
minded efforts to convince the wife and kids to keep overland-
ing, to head for South America once our year further north was
up. I wanted more, to transition this spectacular sabbatical into
a permanent lifestyle, and I wanted my family alongside me for
the ride.
Our simmering differences exploded right after we reached
Antigua, Guatemala. We encamped on the city’s edge in Verde
Eventos, a private park used previously for weddings and recep-
tions but retooled as an overlander’s camp since Covid-19 hit.
Charming pools and fountains gurgled on the lawns. Cobbled
lanes led to covered patios and reception areas where the new-
lyweds and their entourages once held forth and danced. Above
the city’s low-slung skyline, the black cones of Antigua’s many
volcanoes stood brooding.
“This is my forever life,” I pronounced around the campfire
that night (another one of Phoebe’s overlanding peeves: always
a campfire, always grilling, always beer).
“Well, not for me,” she answered, now frustrated and impa-
134 tient. I had tried, indelicately, to move the goalposts one time
too many.
“What exactly are you saying?” I asked, knowing very well.
Around us were camped other overlanders: two French fam-
ilies, an American couple, and an Australian pair who played
dominoes for hours under their Sprinter awning. All had joined
us around the campfire—glowing, harmonious, content.
“We’ll need to go our separate ways so you can follow your
dream.”
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
The way she said dream made something inside me curl like
a salted slug—my heart.
I said, “Your dream is part of the equation. You want to settle
back into [expletive] American suburbia as much as I want to
keep overlanding.”
Our campfire guests shifted uncomfortably. Someone tossed
a log into the fire. Sparks flew, then quickly died in the uproar. I
got very drunk that night in an alley bar somewhere in Antigua.
I flirted with some English lass, a vanlifer, who struck me at
the time as the perfect companion, a soulmate in my darkness.
Later, contritely weeping on Phoebe’s shoulder, I professed my
shame, my love, and my willingness to sacrifice overlanding for
the sake of our marriage. She hugged me and said, “We’ll make
it work.”
By late morning, several of the other overlanders had left.
We kept all this away from the children. Like sex, rela-
tionship disputes while overlanding are difficult to keep pri-
vate. Sparing the children our rancor counted perhaps as our
only success that night. The concession I tearfully promised to
make—give up my aspirations of longer-term overlanding—
had yet to reach the sacrificial altar.
We have since then returned to North Carolina. And yes,
I have reentered suburbia, a new nine-to-five job, a mortgage,
vehicle payments, and a circle of good friends and relatives. But
my heart’s not in it. It beats elsewhere, out on the vast plains
of the West, in the salty dunas of Baja, writing from the small
realm of my camping chair.
Phoebe and the kids have moved on. The trip is behind them,
solidly locked into the chambers of memory. They are enjoying
the comforts of home, the thrum of old and new friends, and
stable internet. Out in the driveway sits our rig, decoupled—the
camper a lonesome post for spiderwebs, the truck downgraded
to throaty supermarket runs. I like to sit in the garage, smoke a
cigarette, and stare at them. For a full year, they were constant
companions. Our only transport. Our bedroom, bathroom, liv-
ing room, playroom, kitchen, and closet: how many spaces in
suburbia are so gloriously generic and unifying?
By the way, the rig is now up for sale. You’ll find it on various
online marketplaces—my sacrificial altar. I mustn’t be too nega-
tive. I live with the joy of my children close to me, the comfort
of roof shingles and a paycheck, a motorcycle for adventure, and
a wife whose love I value as much now as I did 25 years ago.
I contribute gainfully to my mortgage, the family’s meals, our
Hulu account, fishing gear, and art supplies. I write very little.
There simply isn’t time. But I do sneak-peek the latest posts
from the Bells, Tim and Kelsey, and Richie and Abigail in the
way some people sneak porn. In private. Guiltily. And aware
that after the laptop is slapped closed or the phone is turned
from Incognito mode, the primal, uncontrollable urge will once
again inexorably grow until I’m driven to another look.
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 TAIL LAMP CHRIS SIMON
I feed on stories about couples overlanding and thriving to-
gether for the long haul. I want to know how they make it
work. The Bells have survived malaria, machine guns, and Land
Rovers in some of the world’s harshest regions (a2aexpedition.
com). Tim and Kelsey of Dirt Sunrise (dirtsunrise.com) have a
relationship that plays like a soothing, understated fiddle on the
backroads of Alaska, the Andes, and the deserts of North Af-
rica. My good friends from Switzerland, Richie and Abigail,
decided one day to have a baby, travel the world, and change
diapers on the hood of their Ram truck (meataroundtheworld.
com). There are many more such impressive couples. How do
they do it? What secret glue keeps them bonded? And why
did my 25-year relationship with the woman I respect and love
more than any other collapse under the strain of overlanding?
We planned and set out on our one-year trip with differing
goals. To what profound extent our goals were unaligned be-
came clear only deep into the trip, surfacing amid hardships and
happiness that we interpreted very differently. This in itself is
136 remarkable. Phoebe and I have known one another for a quarter
of a century. We have lived together in different cities, in relative
poverty and comfort, through the birth of two children, in good
health and bad, in harmony and quickly eclipsed conflict. We
know one another the way old-school overlanders know their
vehicles, tools, and maps: intimately, reverently, codependently.
How could overlanding surprise us with fresh and unwelcome
insights into one another, our relationship, our wants, and our
needs? It seemed impossible, despite the clues.
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023
Changed Forever
The realities of vehicle-dependent,
long-term travel pose unique
challenges for couples and families.
Planning sessions long before the start of our trip hinted at
the divergences to come. Phoebe put great store in the prospect
of visiting family and friends across the US. She has an exten-
sive network of them. Once, at a reunion in a rented civic center
in Louisville, Kentucky, I mingled with over 100 of her friends
and relatives. To get the same number to a reunion of my own,
my tatty nuclear family—transplanted from Communist East
Germany to South Africa in the sixties—would have had to
recruit strangers from a shopping mall or a rugby match. My
priorities did not include social ties. I wanted to camp on serene
plains in Wyoming and Montana, drive Backcountry Discovery
Routes, and float for days above the mercurial marine life in the
Sea of Cortez. But we happily compromised, at least on paper.
We had a year to undertake the trip—plenty of time to hang out
with friends and fish.
If our differing priorities for overland travel were not exactly
news to us, our year on the road held one truly unexpected sur-
prise: boredom. Our kids, 9 and 14 at the time, felt this the most
acutely when robbed of the internet and their online distrac-
tions. We deemed this healthy. Harder to process was our ennui,
induced, we figured, by the lack of a work schedule and sense
of productivity so ingrained in us over years of the nine-to-five
slog. We did not know what to do with our freedom. Dip our
feet in another resplendent ocean? Tour another Mayan ruin?
Eat another delicious taco? “It feels like too much vacation all
at one time,” Phoebe said a few months into the trip. I agreed. I
felt it, too. But here, another discrepancy crept in.
Continued on page 134
OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 2023