Gottahook

Ivy Sweater/Jumper/Shrug Pattern

By @Gottahook
Ivy is the 12th design by @gottahook. This cropped
jumper or sweater (can also be made in any preferred
length) is made of crocheted cable stitches that gives
the design a unique texture on the body and the
sleeves. Although it looks complex, it is actually easy
to make once you familiarize yourself with the stitch
which are mainly half double crochets and triple
crochets.
I would like to thank my testers for testing this
pattern. I appreciate it a lot, and I don't think I'd
be able to release this pattern without you all.

Terms of Use
This pattern is for personal use only. You are
allowed to sell the pieces you made using
this pattern, but you are not allowed to
share this pattern with anyone, either for
free or for sale.
Creating a video tutorial on any platform
(YouTube, Instagram, TikTok, etc) is strictly
not allowed.
Please tag @gottahook on Instagram when
you post about this top. It will be greatly
appreciated.
For questions, feel free to send a message
on Instagram (@gottahook) or email
(linsenkeith@icloud.com). I will reply as
soon as I can to help.

©Gottahook 2023 Page 1

 Gottahook

Materials

Sport weight (6 ply) yarn. I used approximately 550 grams for

size XS. You can also use dk yarn. I do not recommend using
yarns that are either too thin or too thick. It's also better to use
a lightweight type of yarn.
3mm hook size or the hook size stated on your yarn label.
Tape measure.
Scissors.
Stitch markers.
Tapestry needles.

Abbreviations

Ch/s- Chain/s
St/s- Stitch/es
Sc/s- Single crochet/s
Hdc/s- Half double crochet/s
Tc/s- Triple crochet/s
sc2tog- two single crochet together
(decrease)
fptc- front post triple crochet
blo- back loop only

©Gottahook 2023 Page 2

 Gottahook

C
Armhole
D

B
Sleeve
Length

Cuff

Measurements needed

Measurement A: Bust measurement/2 + 3". You can add more than 3" depending on how
loose you want yours to be. I added 3" because I want mine to be a bit loose. This will be
the measurement for both your front and back panel. For example: 33"/2 + 3 = 19.5".
Measurement B: From desired length until where you want your straps or the neckline to
start. Mine is cropped so it's only 7".
Measurement C: This will be the length of your straps. It depends on how deep you want
the neckline to be. Mine is 2" only.
Measurement D: This is the neckline width. This is the measurement on how wide the
distance between the 2 straps are. Mine is 7".
Armhole: Wrap your tape measure around your arms and adjust depending on how wide
or how loose you want the armhole and the sleeves to be. Mine is 13.5".
Sleeve length: Measure until your desired length. Remember that we still need to add the
cuffs so that will still add some length to the sleeves. Mine is 13".
Cuff: Mine is 1.5".

©Gottahook 2023 Page 3

 Gottahook
Let's Start: Front panel

NOTE: Chain 1 is a TURNING CHAIN and does not count as a stitch.

Step 1: Chain a multiple of 15 + 8 chains that is equivalent to your measurement A. I chained

98 chs.

Step 2: hdc on the 2nd ch from the hook and on every ch until the end of the row. Ch 1, turn.

Step 3: hdc on the 1st st and on every st until the end of the row. Ch 1. turn.

Step 4: *hdc on the next 2 sts, fptc on the next 3 corresponding sts 2 rows below (see photo),
hdc on the next 2 sts, fptc on the next 8 corresponding sts 2 rows below*, repeat from ** until
the end of the row. You must end with 3 fptcs and 2 hdcs. Ch 1, turn.

Tip: You can check the back portion to see if you skipped the right number of sts after making
the fptc and proceeding to the hdcs.

skipped 8 chs

©Gottahook 2023 Page 4

 Gottahook

Step 5: hdc on every st until the end of the row. Ch 1, turn.

Step 6: *hdc on the next 2 sts. fptc on the next 3 corresponding fptcs 2 rows below, hdc on
the next 2 sts, fptc on the next 8 corresponding fptcs 2 rows below*. Repeat from ** until the
end of the row. Ch 1, turn.

Step 7: hdc on every st until the end of the row. Ch 1, turn.

Step 8: *hdc on the next 2 sts. fptc on the next 3 corresponding fptcs 2 rows below, hdc on
the next 2 sts, (we will now create the twist) ftpc on the 5th/6th/7th/8th/1st/2nd/3rd/4th
(respectively) corresponding ftpcs 2 rows below*. Repeat from ** until the end of the row.
Ch 1, turn.
Note: make your fptcs a bit loose. It might look a bit weird at this part but it will get fixed later
so don't worry.

1
32
4
6 5
7
8

©Gottahook 2023 Page 5

 Gottahook

Step 9: Hdc on every st until the end of the row. Ch 1, turn.

Step 10: *hdc on the next 2 sts. fptc on the next 3 corresponding fptcs 2 rows below, hdc on
the next 2 sts, fptc on the next 8 corresponding fptcs 2 rows below*. Repeat from ** until the
end of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Note: It might be hard to locate the fptcs because of the twist but remember that we are not
doing another twist in this row. Just make the fptcs in order.

©Gottahook 2023 Page 6

 Gottahook

Step 11: Repeat steps 5-10 until you reach your measurement B.This is the summary and just
remember this sequence:
hdc row - normal fptc row - hdc row - normal fptc row - hdc row - twisted fptc row...

You should end this part with an hdc row after the twisted fptc row (step 9). DO NOT CUT
THE YARN. We will now proceed with the straps.

Straps and Neckline

Note: If your measurement D is wide and your straps are narrow, the sleeves might fall off of
your shoulders and would give an off-shoulder look.

Decide how wide you want your straps to be. Mine is 7" on both sides. Make sure that there
will be enough space in the middle (measurement D) and that your head would fit in once you
try it on. Put a stitch marker where your straps would end but make sure to put it on the
2nd hdc between the twist and the 3 fptc (refer to photo below). The photo below shows
how the panel would look like once we finish making this part:

Straps width Straps width

Measurement D

Step 1: *hdc on the next 2 sts. fptc on the next 3 corresponding fptcs 2 rows below, hdc on
the next 2 sts, fptc on the next 8 corresponding fptcs 2 rows below*. Repeat from ** until you
reach the stitch marker. Ch 1, turn.

©Gottahook 2023 Page 7

 Gottahook
Step 2: Hdc on every st until the end of the row. Ch 1, turn.

Step 3: *hdc on the next 2 sts. fptc on the next 3 corresponding fptcs 2 rows below, hdc on
the next 2 sts, fptc on the next 8 corresponding fptcs 2 rows below*. Repeat from ** until you
reach the end of the row. Ch 1, turn.

Step 4: Hdc on every st until the end of the row. Ch 1, turn.

Step 5: *hdc on the next 2 sts. fptc on the next 3 corresponding fptcs 2 rows below, hdc on
the next 2 sts, (we will now create the twist) ftpc on the 5th/6th/7th/8th/1st/2nd/3rd/4th
(respectively) corresponding ftpc 2 rows below*. Repeat from ** until the end of the row. Ch
1, turn.

Step 6: Hdc on every st until the end of the row. Ch 1, turn.

Step 7: Just keep repeating the pattern (steps 1-6) until you reach your desired strap length.
You should end with an hdc row (after a twist or after a normal fptc row, it doesn't matter). Ch
1, cut the yarn and fasten off. Do the same thing to the other side but you should attach
the yarn on the stitch marker instead of ending the first row of strap on the stitch
marker.
Attach yarn here

©Gottahook 2023 Page 8

 Gottahook
Back panel
The back panel is basically the same as the front panel. Just repeat the steps in making the
front panel. But you can also adjust the length of the straps on the back panel depending
on your preference. If you wish to make the straps shorter and the neckline higher on the
back panel, you can do so by making more rows for measurement A than that of your front
panel. Just make sure that you ended with hdc row before making the straps. Continue with
the pattern and make sure that you end up with the same number of total rows with the front
panel. For example:
Front panel Back panel
Higher neckline
lower neckline

Same number of total rows

Same number of total rows

Example if you want your back panel to have a higher neckline/shorter straps: for the front
panel, you made 10 rows for straps. For your back panel, make only 6 rows but the 4 rows
would add up to your measurement A. That way, you'll still have the same number of total
rows.

Sewing the panels

On the wrong side of the panels, connect the parts with red dash line using any method you
like. I personally like using slip stitch to sew them together. For the sides, remember to leave
space for your armhole.

armhole
armhole

©Gottahook 2023. Page 9

 Gottahook
Neckline Ribbing
Tip: to make the ribbing look neater, do not do blo sc and just make the sc on both loops of the
last sc of step 4 and first sc of step 5.
Step 1: Attach the yarn on the back part of the neckline. Ch 1 to secure.

Step 2: Sc around the neckline until you reach the first sc. Sl st to connect. In this part, you
should make decreases (sc2tog) on the corners (red circle) of the neckline to make the
neckline rounder. You can make as many decreases as you like. I personally decreased 4x on
each corner. Also, on the straps where there are no particular sts where you can put your scs,
just make 1 sc in each hdc post. Avoid putting a lot of sts and unintentionally making
increases or else the ribbing would look loose.

Step 3: ch 6 (you can ch more depending on your preference), sc on the 2nd ch from the hook
and sc in each st until the end of the row. If you chained 6, you should have 5 scs. Sl st 2 times
on the next sc on our base sc row.

sl st on these sts

©Gottahook 2023 Page 10

 Gottahook
Step 4: Sc blo in each st until the end of the row. Ch 1, turn.

Step 5: Sc blo in each st until the end of the row and sl st 2x on the base sc row. Ch 1, turn.

Step 6: Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you reach the start of the ribbing. Always remember that
your stitch count on the beginning of the ribbing should remain the same all throughout (avoid
making increases by unintentionally putting scs on the sl sts). Connect to the start of the
ribbing using any method you like. I used slip stitches.

©Gottahook 2023 Page 11

 Gottahook
Sleeves
You can start on either the right or left sleeve. CHAIN 1 DOES NOT COUNT AS ST. ALWAYS
TURN AFTER EACH ROW

Note: Put 1 hdc in each hdc post. THE NUMBER OF HDCS SHOULD BE A MULTIPLE OF 15.
Make increases or decreases to reach this multiple if necessary. But still check if it will be too
tight or too loose later on. I have 60 hdcs in total. You can check the testers' lookbook for
reference.

Step 1: Attach the yarn on the back panel of the armhole and ch 1 (does not count as stitch).
Make a row of hdc in a way that the "right" side of the hdcs are facing up. Sl st to the
first hdc, ch 1 (does not count as st), turn.

"right" side of hdcs are facing up

Step 2: Hdc in each st until you reach the end. Sl st to the first hdc, ch 1 (does not count as
st), turn.

Step 3: *hdc on the next 2 sts, fptc on the next 3 corresponding sts 2 rows below (see photo),
hdc on the next 2 sts, fptc on the next 8 corresponding sts 2 rows below*, repeat from ** until
the end of the row. You must end with the 8 fptcs. Sl st to the first hdc, Ch 1, turn.

©Gottahook 2023 Page 12

 Gottahook
Step 4: Hdc in each st until you reach the end. Sl st to the first hdc, ch 1 (does not count as
st), turn.

Step 5: *hdc on the next 2 sts. fptc on the next 3 corresponding fptcs 2 rows below, hdc on
the next 2 sts, fptc on the next 8 corresponding fptcs 2 rows below*. Repeat from ** until the
end of the row. Sl st to the first hdc, Ch 1, turn.

Step 6: Hdc in each st until you reach the end. Sl st to the first hdc, ch 1 (does not count as
st), turn.

Step 7: *hdc on the next 2 sts. fptc on the next 3 corresponding fptcs 2 rows below, hdc on
the next 2 sts, (we will now create the twist) ftpc on the 5th/6th/7th/8th/1st/2nd/3rd/4th
(respectively) corresponding ftpc 2 rows below*. Repeat from ** until the end of the row. Sl st
to the first hdc, ch 1 (does not count as st), turn.
Note: make your fptcs a bit loose. It might look a bit weird at this part but it will get fixed later
so don't worry.

©Gottahook 2023 Page 13

 Gottahook
Step 8: Repeat steps 2-7 until you reach your desired sleeve length. Remember that we will
still make the cuffs so that will still add some length to your sleeves. You should end with
either a normal fptc row or a twisted fptc row. DO NOT CUT THE YARN YET AND DO NOT
TURN.

Ribbing
Tip: to make the ribbing look neater, do not do blo sc and just make the sc on both loops of the
last sc of step 3 and first sc of step 4.
Step 1: Make decreases by making sc2tog. I decreased on every st. You can make less
decreases but make sure that it's not too loose and not too tight. If you already made
decreases on every st and it's still loose, you can make another row of sc and make some
decreases there. When you reach the end, sl st to the first sc you made.

Step 2: Ch 9. You can chain more or less than 9 depending on your preference. Hdc on the
2nd ch from the hook and on every ch until you reach the end. Skip 1 sc from the base sc row,
sl st 2x on the next 2 scs.

©Gottahook 2023 Page 14

 Gottahook
Step 3: hdc blo in every st until the end of the row, Ch 1, turn.

Step 4: hdc blo in every st until the end of the row, Skip 1 sc from the base sc row, sl st 2x on
the next 2 scs.

Step 5: Repeat steps 3-4 until you reach the start of the ribbing. Connect using any method
you prefer. I used slip stitches. Fasten off. Repeat the same thing to the other sleeve.

You may also add ties at the back part to make the waist part tighter. You can make I-
cords or make chains then sl st back to make the chs thicker. You may also make a
bottom ribbing using the same method you did with your neckline ribbing.

©Gottahook 2023 Page 15

 Gottahook
CONGRATULATIONS ON FINISHING YOUR IVY JUMPER!

Feel free to send me a message on Instagram if you have any questions about this
pattern. I would also love to see your versions and hear your thoughts so make sure to
tag me (@gottahook on Instagram).
THANK YOU SO MUCH!

©Gottahook 2023 Page 16