Harper Tapestry Crochet Pattern

Designed and Made by The Story of a Mulberry
HARPER
Chevron with a twist!
This is a beautiful chevron inspired design with some intricate

details added to it. It’s certainly a design that will look gorgeous in
many different kinds of projects.
If you feel like it, you can make the bag bigger or smaller and add
your personal touch. It’s up to you to transform the pattern to fit
your needs.
Finished Approximate Dimensions:
H – 35,5 cm / 14 inches
L – 28,5 cm / 11,2 inches
W – 4 cm / 1,6 inches
Find “The Story of a Mulberry” on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Etsy

Designed & Made by The Story of a Mulberry
www.thestoryofamulberry.blogspot.com
WHAT YOU’LL NEED

NOTE: I used Katia Capri and By Claire Cotton
- 102 Bordeaux (By Claire Cotton) x2 - Darning needle brands for this pattern. These yarns are a category
- 168 Ochre (Katia Capri) x1 - Stitch Markers (or piece of 2 weight. They are 100% mercerized cotton in
- 148 Light Orange (Katia Capri) x2 thread in different color) 50g balls with approximately 125m/137yds. You
- 3 mm crochet hook - Patience ☺ can use any equivalent yarn as well as any colors
- 2,5 mm crochet hook of your preference. ☺
BEFORE WE START: I tried to make this tutorial beginner friendly with pictures and more detailed explanations. Nonetheless, if you are a more
advanced crocheter and don’t want to go through this step-by-step structure, you can go straight to the written pattern on page 12. You can also find
on pages 6/7 the tapestry chart as well as information on how to make the bag in a different size or make a different project.
Note: I will use abbreviations to make the descriptions shorter. If you have read other crochet tutorials you will already be familiar with them, but let
me remind you. US terminology.
Ch - chain St - stitch
SC - single crochet Sts - stitches
DC - double crochet Bl - back loop
Sl St - slip stitch Yo - yarn over

FIRST STEP – FOUNDATION CHAIN

1
1. Take your 3mm crochet hook and Ch 150 with the Light Orange
yarn to create the foundation chain.
Make sure to leave a tail of approximately 65 cm/ 25,6 in that
we’ll use further away in this pattern.
2. Sl St in the first ch of the foundation chain, making sure that it’s

not twisted, to create a circle. Then Ch1.
How to: identify the first ch, insert the hook, yo and pull directly
through the loop you have on the hook. Then Ch1.
2a 2b 2c 2d

SECOND STEP – TAPESTRY CHART
1a 1b
Before we take a closer look at the tapestry chart, that we’ll be following
from now on, let me give you some more useful information.
1. In tapestry crochet, you crochet with one color keeping the other
yarns hidden inside the stitches. In this step you’ll add the Ochre
and Bordeaux yarns that will remain hidden until you’ll have to
use them. You’ll add them now, while starting the first row,
which is entirely Light Orange, so all the crochet is evenly thick.
How to: place the yarns to add as shown in the first image and do a SC
in the same St as you did the Sl St. Insert the hook, making sure to go 1c 1d
under the yarns you are adding, yo the Light Orange yarn (working yarn)
and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on the hook. Now yo and pull
through the 2 loops to have your first SC made. Put a stitch marker (or
thread of different color) in the SC you just made to mark where the row
begins. From now on, you can either crochet continuously without
joining the rows or you can join the rows, according to your preference
on the matter.

Note: After doing some SC you may see that the crochet curls a bit and 3. The first row is entirely Light Orange, but from the second row
you can see the hidden yarns popping out of some stitches. This is you’ll have to change color in the middle of the crochet.
perfectly normal, but it’s NOT what you want. All you have to do is to How to change color: You’ll insert the hook in the Back Loop (or in
pull the hidden yarns to straighten the crochet and tighten the stitches Both Loops for the marked sts if you opted to do so) and pull up a loop
together. You’ll have to pay attention to this and pull the yarns when as usual then, instead of yo and pulling through the 2 loops with the
necessary. same yarn, you’ll do it with the yarn of the next stitch.
3a 3b
2
2. From the second row and 3c
forward, you’ll have to crochet
only in the BL of the sts.
Optional: crochet on both
loops the sts marked with an X.
This will allow the design to be
neater.

Each square represents 1 single crochet. Don’t forget to crochet in Note: See next page for the
THE the Back Loop of the stitches and optionally crochet in Both repeating section and information
CHART
Loops the stitches marked with an X. on how to make a different size.
Optional: I made a last row of slip stitches in Ivory to have a nice 58

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border. You can use any border of your preference or none at all. 56
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REPEATING SECTION
The project present in this tutorial is made by repeating this 3-color
section 5x for the length and a little over 2x for the height. Adding to
that one Light Orange row at the beginning. It has a drawstring closure,
27
but you can make another closure alternative of your preference. 26
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IMPORTANT: For a different size than the one made by this pattern, 23
repeat this section to fit your needs, making sure to adapt the 22
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foundation chain and the tail accordingly! ☺ 20
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- You can use this pattern for a completely different project (pillow 17
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cover, tote bag, cosmetic pouch, laptop cover…). Keep in mind to 15
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adapt the yarn you’ll be using to the project, since the one used in this 13
pattern may not be the most appropriate. 12
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- You can also use it for a flat project, but be aware that the design will 9
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not be as clean and neat, since you won’t always be working on the 7
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right side of the work. Note: for flat projects do not pay attention to 5
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the X on the pattern since this is only for projects made in the round! 3
Also remember that you have to read the rows alternately from right to 2
1
left and from left to right.
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THIRD STEP – THE BASE
C D
You’ve just finished the tapestry pattern and it’s time to cut the Ochre
and Bordeaux yarns, but not the Light Orange as you’ll still need it.
Now, you’ll sew the foundation chain together, with the tail left at the
beginning.
How to: turn the crochet inside out, grab the tail to help identify the first
st, then place the foundation chain side by side so the sts of each side
match. Take a darning needle and start sewing, making sure to pass the
yarn 2 times in the first sts to secure it. Keep sewing, always in the same TIP: At this point, you can use it as a tote bag by adding handles/straps
direction. Once you reach the last sts, pass the yarn 2 times, making sure or you can add a zipper and fold it over to use as a clutch.
to pass the yarn inside the loop in the second passage to secure it. Weave In this step you’ll create a width of 4cm/1,6in to give the backpack
in what is left of the tail. better storage. How to: with the crochet inside out, take one of the
A B corners of the base and put the crochet in the shape of a triangle, making
sure it’s aligned with the base and that each side is equal. With a
measuring tape, measure 4cm/1,6in across, which is where you’ll sew.
Pass the yarn 2 times in the first st to secure it and go back and forth
until you reach the last st, where you’ll also pass the yarn 2 times. Then,
go all the way back in the same way until you reach the first st again,
going inside the loop to secure it. Do the same with the other corner.
Weave in the ends and turn your work outside in.
E F
FOURTH STEP – THE CLOSURE
For this pattern, we are making a drawstring closure.

How to: whether you’ve been crocheting continuously (in spiral) or
joining the rows, from now on you’ll have to join the rows. Note: if
you’ve been crocheting in spiral your last st is probably not aligned with
G H the first st of the first row once you lay the bag flat. This is normal, just
be sure to make “extra” SC until you reach the alignment.
Take your 2,5 mm hook and start by making a Sl St in the first st of the
last row (or corresponding st if you had to add SC to reach the side).
Then, follow the instructions below:
R1
I
Row 1: Ch2 (does not count as st), 1
DC in back loop of next 150 sts, Sl St
in first DC.

R2 Row 4: Repeat Row 1.
Row 2: Ch2 (does not count as st), 1 Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
DC in back loop of next 6 sts, Ch2,
skip next 2 sts *1 DC in BL of next 10 R4
sts, Ch2, skip next 2 sts, 1 DC in BL
of next 11 sts, Ch2, skip next 2 sts*
(repeat from *to* until the end of the
row), 1 DC in back loop of last 5 sts,
Sl St in first DC.
Row 3: Ch2 (does not count as st), 1 R3

DC in back loop of next 6 sts, 2 DC in TIP: With the size made with this pattern you can make a lot of different
Ch2 space of the previous row, *1 DC projects. After the tote bag and clutch options, at this point you can put
in BL of next 10 sts, 2 DC in Ch2 a cord (fabric, crochet or other) and have a regular drawstring bag, very
space of the previous row, 1 DC in BL useful to store a lot of different things.
of next 11 sts, 2 DC in Ch2 space of
the previous row* (repeat from *to*
until the end of the row), 1 DC in back
loop of last 5 sts, Sl St in first DC.

finishing off the strap, you can weave it into the holes (as described in
FIFTH STEP – THE STRAPS next page) and use stitch markers to attach the ends of the strap to the
bottom of the backpack. This will give you a rough idea of how the
In this design, you’ll be making a single I-cord that will be both the backpack will hang on you. Also keep in mind that the cord will stretch
straps and the bag closure. You can make them separately and use fabric in use. Fasten off leaving a tail of approximately 30 cm / 11,8 in.
or another type of crochet straps, according to your preference.
A B
How to make the I-cord:
With your 2,5 mm crochet hook, leave a tail of approximately 30 cm /
11,8 inches and Ch 7 in Light Orange.
Row 1: Starting from the second chain from hook, 1 SC in next 6 Ch.
You will now be crocheting in continuous rounds. Make sure the wrong
side is facing outwards, so you will be working counter-clockwise. The
wrong side or back side of single crochets has horizontal bars (these
horizontal bars are not visible on the right side of the stitches). Rather
than working in the front or back loops as you typically do, you will be C
working in these horizontal bars.
Round 2: 1 SC in horizontal bars of each of the 6 SC.
The first rounds may be tricky, but after getting the hang of it’ll get
easier. After a few rounds you’ll start seeing a “tube” forming.
Repeat Round 2 until you reach the desired length for the strap
according to your height (I made a strap of ca 120 cm / 47,2 in). Before
How to attach the strap
Weave in the entirety of the remaining tail to keep it secure.
D Pull the cord to close the bag and you have yourself a backpack.
Weave the I-cord starting in one
of the center holes and ending on G H
the other, as shown in the
picture.
Going to the bottom of the bag, align the strap with the corner of the
base. You can choose where to place the strap, according to your
preference (I left ca. 4 cm / 1,6 inches space from the corner). To attach
the strap, use the tail and make a square seam with your darning needle. I suggest you add a lining to the bag. It will allow you to carry things
without risking them poking through the crochet and it will give a cute,
E F polished look to the backpack.

To make the drawstring closure
Written pattern for advanced crocheters
Whether you’ve been crocheting in spiral or joining the rows, from now
on you’ll have to join the rows. Note: if you’ve been crocheting in spiral
To make the tapestry bag
your last stitch is probably not aligned with the side of the bag once you
Take the 3 mm hook and with the Light Orange yarn, leave a tail of lay it flat. This is normal, just be sure to make “extra” SC until you reach
approximately 65 cm/ 25,6 in. the side. Take your 2,5 mm hook and Sl St in first st of the last row (or
Ch 150 and Sl St in the first Ch St to create a circle. (For a different corresponding st if you had to add SC to reach the side for having
size, see information on page 7) crocheted in spiral).
Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as st), add the Ochre and Bordeaux yarns Row 1: Ch2 (does not count as st), 1 DC in back loop of each 150 sts,
and place a stitch marker in the first SC of the row (made in the same St Sl St in first DC.
as the Sl St). Crochet according to chart on page 6.
Row 2: Ch2 (does not count as st), 1 DC in back loop of next 6 sts, Ch2,
You can either crochet continuously (in spiral) or join the rows, skip next 2 sts *1 DC in BL of next 10 sts, Ch2, skip next 2 sts, 1 DC in
according to your preference. BL of next 11 sts, Ch2, skip next 2 sts* (repeat from *to* until the end
From now on only crochet in the Back Loop of the stitches. of the row), 1 DC in back loop of last 5 sts, Sl St in first DC.
Optional: crochet in Both Loops the sts marked with X. Row 3: Ch2 (does not count as st), 1 DC in back loop of next 6 sts, 2
Row 2-58: Keep crocheting the pattern according to the chart. DC in Ch2 space of the previous row, *1 DC in BL of next 10 sts, 2 DC
Cut the Ochre and Bordeaux yarns only and weave in the ends. in Ch2 space of the previous row, 1 DC in BL of next 11 sts, 2 DC in
Ch2 space of the previous row* (repeat from *to* until the end of the
Sew the base according to indications on pages 8/9. row), 1 DC in back loop of last 5 sts, Sl St in first DC.
Row 4: Repeat row 1.

To make the I-cord strap
With your 2,5 mm crochet hook, leave a tail of approximately 30 cm / Note: feel free to make a different type of crochet straps and cord for
11,8 in and Ch 7 in Light Orange. the drawstring closure, according to your preference.
Row 1: Starting from the second chain from hook, 1 SC in next 6 Ch.
You will now be crocheting continuously in spiral. Make sure the To attach the straps
wrong side is facing outwards, so you will be working counter- Follow instructions on page 12.
clockwise. The wrong side of single crochets has horizontal bars (these
horizontal bars are not visible on the right side of the stitches). Rather
than working in the front or back loops as you typically do, you will be
working in these horizontal bars.
Round 2: 1 SC in the horizontal bars of each of the 6 SC.
The first rounds may be tricky, but after getting the hang of it’ll get
easier and faster.
Repeat Round 2 until reaching the desired length for the strap according
to your height (I made a strap of ca 120 cm / 47,2 in). Before finishing
off the strap, you can weave it into the holes (as described in page 12)
and use stitch markers to attach the ends of the strap to the bottom of the
backpack. This will give you a rough idea of how the backpack will
hang on you. Also keep in mind that the cord will stretch with usage.
Once you reach your desired length, fasten off leaving a tail of
approximately 30 cm / 11,8 in.

IT’S FINISHED!
SHOW ME
Congratulations! You just finished the Harper pattern. I hope you Don’t forget to share with me your finished projects through social
enjoyed making it and that you are pleased with the result. media using #TSMpattern or tag @thestoryofamulberry
My main goal is to provide you a pattern that you can transform to fit I would love to see how each of you put your own personal touches
your needs ☺. You can do as you want! You can change the size of the on your projects! If you have any questions at all about this pattern,
bag, add a lining and make inside pockets. You can use another closure feel free to e-mail me at: thestoryofamulberry@gmail.com
alternative that fits your project like a zipper and so much more. You Take a look at my etsy shop for more crochet patterns!
can also use this design for a different project that is not a bag.
The options are endless which is why I can’t explain here how to do all
those things. It is entirely up to you!
This pattern is an original pattern by The Story of a Mulberry. Do not claim this
pattern as your own. You may keep a copy for your own personal use, but DO NOT
sell the pattern, distribute it or reproduce it on your platforms, not even parts of it.
Clearly credit the pattern/design to me, The Story of a Mulberry

(@thestoryofamulberry) always when sharing your finished or in progress make of
this pattern/design in your platforms.
Permission is NOT granted to sell products made with this pattern. Thank you for
being respectful and for your understanding!

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Harper Tapestry Crochet Pattern

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Designed and Made by The Story of a Mulberry

This is a beautiful chevron inspired design with some intricate

Finished Approximate Dimensions:

Find “The Story of a Mulberry” on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Etsy

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Find “The Story of a Mulberry” on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Etsy

FIRST STEP – FOUNDATION CHAIN

2. Sl St in the first ch of the foundation chain, making sure that it’s

Find “The Story of a Mulberry” on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Etsy

SECOND STEP – TAPESTRY CHART

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Find “The Story of a Mulberry” on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Etsy

Optional: I made a last row of slip stitches in Ivory to have a nice 58

For this pattern, we are making a drawstring closure.

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Row 3: Ch2 (does not count as st), 1 R3

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Row 4: Repeat row 1.

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Clearly credit the pattern/design to me, The Story of a Mulberry

Find “The Story of a Mulberry” on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Etsy

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