March 2019

Two new
gifts inside

SMK
Soviet what-if by Takom
Sharotank
And a soviet what-if by Miniart
M1919 U.S. light tank
Disguising the Meng kit

FV101 Scorpion
The Spanish marines version
Panzer 38(d)
Yet another What-if, by Amusing Hobby

Sponsored by
Is published by Coronel Caramel S.l.
CIF B54483052
Editorial office & administration
Casiopea 7 entresuelo
03006 Alicante
Spain
Te: 965112833
Email: fcmodeltips@gmail.com
Director: Federico Collada
Editor: Federico Collada
Design: Federico Collada
Graphics: Federico Collada
Models and photographs: Federico Collada

Editorial
Every month there is a new round of exciting kits to build, AFV modelling never sleeps! I can
still recall the times when Italeri and Tamiya were the only decent providers and you could
count the new kits per year with your fingers. Nowadays it’s usual to see dozens of new
kits every month, all of them good quality and usually very interesting. It’s very difficult for
an average modeller to decide which Panther should he buy or what Sherman will be more
appealing of the hundreds where to choose. And now we got a parallel category with the
“what-if” kits, if you like AFV it’s hard to keep off these models as they usually are very well
designed and they offer a huge variety of possibilities.
This month we have three AFV that can get into this category; The Takom Soviet multi turret
failed project SMK, an impressive vehicle that was the last of its type. Miniart start their own
range with a vehicle that reminds us the SCI-fi bulletins of the early cold-war era, the Soviet
tank ball is a great kit at the same level as the best real AFV kits. And finally we got the
Amusing Hobby Panzer IV (d) a cross design between the Hetzer and a Panzer IV that will
surely catch the attention of German AFV fans. Let’s have a deep look into them in the next
pages. I hope you like them.

Federico Collada

3
Index Page 6

Page 19

Page 25

6 -IFOR grunge base

8 - Blitzscales previews
19 - M1917 U.S. light tank
25 - FV101 Scorpion, Spanish marines
33 - Soviet ball tank
42 - The Martin Csanadi gift galore
44 - SMK the last Soviet multi turret experiment
55 - Panzerkampfwagen 38D

4
 Page 33

Page 44
Page 42

Page 55

5
 Cut & paste
1- Print the opposite page, resize if you need to fit your wood base

2- Varnsh to protect the printing

3- Glue onto a wood base using white glue

4- Press softly with a sponge to eliminate any air bubbles

7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
M1917
Light
tank

Scale; 1/35
Producer; Meng
Transformation set; FCModeltips
Decals; FCModeltips
When the United States entered the Great War in 1917 didn’t have any tanks of their own.
Based on both French and British reports the
American Expeditionary Forces’ commander-in-
chief, Gen. John Pershing decided that the use of
tanks was essential on the “modern” battlefield
so a program was settled to provide a heavy tank
based on the British designs but the time required
for the project made it unavailable until the next
year so an interim solution was proposed; to
build the French FT-17 light tank under license.
The first request for the M1917 light tank was
of 1200 units that would later be increased
in 4400 more but the producing process was

19
 1 1 to 5 - The 3d printed parts
fit the Meng kit for which they
have been designed. The
detail is hardly visible at the
traslucent resin but it shows
up as soon as we print the
parts.

2
3

plagued with all

sort of problems;
the French
plans were
metric and not
compatibles with
the American
industry, the
coordination
between
the military
departments, industry and suppliers was very poor and contaminated with bureaucracy and
personal interest so the first vehicles were produced 6 months after the expected date in
October 1918 and arrived France one month later, just nine days after the armistice.
After the war 950 tanks were produced including models armed with 37mm gun, machine gun
and the Transmission and signals version.
The M1917 was very similar to the French FT-17 differing in some details and the replacement
of the armament.
In 1927 six tanks were sent to Tientsin to support the Marine expeditionary force to protect
the U.S. interests during the conflict.
Canada bought 250 tanks to provide their army with proper training
before going to Europe where they would use more
modern equipment.

20
 4 5 6 and 7 - The whole
model is primed with
Olive drab. ·d parts
need no special
preparation except
for some warm water
cleaning.

7
6

The kit

Meng released the FT-17 light tank some years ago.

Until that date the only plastic kit available was the old
Mirage/RPM one that is closer to the 1/32 scale and was
hard to build.
In order to transform the FT-17 into an M1917 some
parts should be changed so I decided to design them for
3d printing including some optional armament as the
37mm gun and both Browning and Marlin machine
guns.
Once I got the first printing test I had
to redesign some parts for a better
adaption to the kit but the second test
was OK so I decided to use the parts
to build my own M1917 light tank.
The other element required for
this model would be the decals;
I had this in mind too when I
started designing the resin parts
so I started designing the decals
too at the same time. The decals
set does not include only the US
M1917 markings but many other
nations FT-17 ones and as I already
had the job done I decided to print them in
1/16 scale too for the Takom kit.
21
 8
10
8 and 9 - Highlighting filters
bring out the detailes and
volumes.
10 and 11 - The decals are in
the special set for International
FT-17 available at www.
fcmodeltrend.com preparation
for placing them is the standard
process with gloss varinshing
and decals softener.
11
22
Get to work
The Meng kit is easy modelling, it can be built in a few
hours and the 3d printed parts adapt very well so the
building process went straight forward without any major
problem. I chose to build the 37mm gun version as it was
the one I saw in the photos of the US marine expeditionary
force for which I had designed the decals that include the
unit emblem at the vehicle front.
Once I got all the parts ready I primed the whole model
with Vallejo 73608 olive drab. Then I used the colour
included in the special set for U.S. AFV to highlight the
volumes and details. I airbrushed lighter shades of green
heavily diluted and aiming at the centre of the bigger
surfaces and let it settle for some minutes. Then I used a
dark yellow colour diluted at 90% with thinner to replicate
the zenithal illumination airbrushing the whole kit from
above at some 30-40 cm distance.
With that part of the painting done I proceeded to apply a
layer of gloss varnish to prepare the surface for the decals
placing. I cut the decals and put them in clean water for
some seconds until they got loose. Then I moistened the
surface of the model with Vallejo Decal fix and placed
them. After waiting for a minute or two I pressed
them gently with a sponge to adapt them and then
moistened with the decal medium. This way I ensured
the perfect adaption to any irregular surface or detail.
After placing the decals I protected the job with a layer
of satin varnish and let the model rest for a day. Then I
used several acrylic washes to make a splattered filter
over a humid with thinner surface to create a stained
 13
12
12 to 15 - The rest
of the weathering
process is the standard
I always use with
washes, pigments,
stains and graphite.

15
14

look. For this I used an old toothbrush, letting the little dots hit the humid surface and blend
with the rest of the colour while they were still fresh.
In this phase I stopped to work on the tracks. The kit provides them as separate links that you
have to click together, this is a very easy process and you can have them ready to paint in a
while. I primed them with a mix of black and dark brown colours and later applied a thick wash
made of 76507 Dark rust and pigment 73110 Burnt Umber. I applied this wash with a brush
letting the pigment deposit on the surface to create a rough texture.
Once the tracks were dry I varnished them and placed them on the kit.
Next phase was replicating some scratching and old rust stains, these were imitated using a
little sponge piece and some acrylic paints of many rust tones.
After that I prepared a pigment wash using light earth colour mixed with much thinner to avoid
the mechanical sprayer from clogging. After a couple of washes the tank was dusty
enough so I proceeded to rub some parts with graphite pigment to imitate the
exposed metal.
The last touch was adding some fuel
and oil stains using the Vallejo
special effect paints diluted at 50%
so the marks would not be so evident.

Conclusion

The FT-17 is one of my all

time favourite tanks and I’m
always ready to tackle any
new and different version.
I have designed myself many
parts to depict different models
but the M1917 has been always on
my mind and now I have finally made
it 1/35 scale I’m sure it won’t be long
until I repeat it in 1/16 scale.

23
24
FV101
Scorpion
Spanish Navy version
Scale; 1/35
Producer;Takom
Transformation set; FCModeltips
Decals; FCModeltips

The Scorpion was a Combat Vehicle Reconnaissance developed by Alvis in 1967 to

meet the British army requirements for a tracked vehicle capable of performing this task
and be platform for other specialized vehicles. The Scorpion was accepted by the British
army in 1970 and 2 years later the first units were delivered.
The Alvis Scorpion has remained in service both within the British and other countries
armies for decades and it has seen action in the Malvinas conflict and the Gulf war.
The Spanish Marine bought 17 Scorpions back in the eighties and after
two upgrading programs they were sold to Chile in 2004.

25
 1 and 2 - The three set of 3d 1
printed parts to build the Spanish
FV101 Scorpion are designed
to match the AFV kit as it’s the
only one exisitng in plastic by the
moment.

3- I used a NATO green colour

as a base as is the standard
Spanish marine tone for AFV
since the Scorpions arrived in the
eighties.
4 - The first highlighting is
provided by an airbrushed filter
using 71104 Zinc green heavily
diluted.
3
5 - A second filter uing 71107
Ivory provided the zenithal
illumination.

A constantly updated project

I started designing the parts to transform the

AFV club FV101 Scorpion to a Spanish vehicle
more than a year ago when I thought I had
enough information and pictures to make the
4 set possible. Many folks from Spain were very
interested in it so I decided to release it ASAP.
The first printing test revealed the front lights
covering mesh too fragile so I had to redesign
them making the bars a bit thicker. Besides
this all the parts adjusted the kit without
problem and provided some updates like the
empty turret side boxes that are solid in the
plastic kit.
Some months later while talking with Michael
Shackleton he made me realize that there
were still some details to be added to the kit
5 so I started a new set to be sold separately as
many modellers had bought the previous one
already. This new set was ready very quick as
the printing test was OK at the first try. In order
to complete the transformation I prepared a
set of tracks with the chevron rubber pads,
typical of the Spanish Scorpions. These tracks
are made of lengths that can be clicked to
separate the links so you can easily adapt
them to both idler and sprocket wheels.

26
 6 7

9
8

10

6 - A glossy surface and a decal softener are

always welcome for a perfect adherence.
7 - The Acrylic washes can be useful to alter the
base tone in some parts.
8 - Mixing paints with marble powder to add some
texture.
9- The dark brown oil wash enhanced the
shadows.
10 - Preparing the glue/paint for the camouflage
net.

Building the kit.

The AFV club kit is a bit old now but its quality is still
fine if compared to other kits from that period, and is still
the only one available in plastic 1/35 scale so you don’t
really have much where to choose.
I built it following the instructions changing the
parts that I didn’t need for the 3d
printed resin ones that were
glued with a little CA. This
part of the job was rather
easy and straightforward
so very soon I had the
model built and ready for
painting.

27
11 12

14
13

11 and 12 Placing the net and adding some basil leaves

before the paitn dries.
Spanish colours 13 and 14 - I used a silver paint and later a translucnte home
made filter for the periscopes.
By the time the Spanish Marine bought the Scorpions they started repainting their vehicles with the
standard NATO colours. All vehicles painted olive drab were then repainted with the NATO green
shade to meet the international agreements. This colour is constantly seen in many pictures looking
very different, this is due not only to the atmospheric conditions like a cloudy or sunny day, the hour
the picture it was taken, etc but also the amount of dust the vehicle is covered with so modellers are
constantly trying to match the photographs they use as reference. In my opinion it’s easier using the
right colour and later try to match the look with the weathering process as if you start matching the
tone, you will surely spoil it during the weathering part of the painting job.
I started painting the whole model using Vallejo primer 70612 NATO green in two diluted layers
ensuring that I was reaching every corner. Then I used 71094 Zinc green as a filter diluted with 85%
thinner aiming at the centre of the bigger surfaces to illuminate them. Once this first filter was dry I
prepared a second one using 71107 US interior green diluted at 90% and I airbrushed it from above
the model to imitate the zenithal illumination.
With this part of the painting done I airbrushed the model with gloss preparing it for the decals
placing. I released the Spanish Marine FV101 Scorpion decals more than a year ago including
numbers to choose for all of the 17 vehicles so I didn’t have to look far for the necessary markings.
Using the Vallejo decal softener I placed the decals and waited for them to be perfectly settled
before varnishing again, this time using satin.
I always like to use the Vallejo special rust effect paint for the tracks due to its rough texture that
imitates very well the rusted look, this time I wanted to try a mix of a lighter tone and marble powder
to see if I was able to achieve a similar texture. I applied this mix with a brush and soon I got the
tracks covered with a light rust textured look.
After that I used a home made wash made with dark brown and black oil with much turpentine
to emphasize the shadows around the details and at the recessed lines, I applied this wash
generously with a brush and once dry I eliminated any excess with a cotton swab and clean
turpentine.
I used a sand colour acrylic wash to lighten the back crate canvas cover so it could be
distinguished from the rest of the vehicle.
28
15
16

17

18

15 - Mixing a little pigments with much water for the

pigments rain, my favourite technique for providing a
smooth dust covering.
16 - The mix must be very light for the pigment not to 19
clog the mechanical sprayer.
17 - The heavy mud accumulations were made using
both acrylic mud paints and pigments.
18- Some pigments applied directly from the can
provided some thicker dust and dirt accumulations on
the upper hull.
19 - The last step, some graphite rubbing to imitate
the polished metal.
29
20 20 - Some oil and fule stains add interest
to the model.
21 - The base is a simple plastic tray
covered with mud and static grass.

I wanted my Scorpion to look as if in some

exercises as I say it in some pictures, full of
mud and dirty, and for this I needed to add a
camouflage net on the front so I prepared a
piece of gauze and a mix of white glue, dark
green paint and water to impregnate it so I
could both paint it and fix it to the vehicle
at the same time. Once soaked the gauze I
21 accommodate it and before drying I poured
basil leaves over it so they could absorb part
of the mix and get fixed. I waited 24 hours
for the white glue mix to be perfectly dry and
then I airbrushed a light green filter over the
net using a piece of paper as a floating mask
in order to avoid painting the vehicle hull.
Next phase was painting the details, for
this I used various acrylic paints of different
colours. I decided to paint the periscopes
glasses with a silver base and later a mix of
gloss varnish, translucent blue and black
wash to create a thick wash that could deposit
most of the colour at the glasses edges creating a tinted glass look.
Before going on I decided to apply a generous pigment wash to imitate the dust covering
all over the tank. I prepared a mix of 73113 Light slate grey and 73109 Natural umber
pigments and 95% water in a little mechanical sprayer, then I poured this mix all over the
model and let it dry. The pigment deposited at the horizontal surfaces, recessed lines and
around the details as it happens in the real life. Once dry I eliminated any excess with a dry
brush.
Next I used some acrylic mud products to add this effect at the lower part of the hull,
wheels, etc. Before the mud dried I sprinkled some pigment over it to create some dry mud
crusts.
The graphite pigment is always useful to imitate the exposed metal; a simple pencil can be
enough to rub the most exposed parts of the tank where friction can be constant, the edges
of the track links, sprocket teeth, etc.
The last step was adding some oil and fuel stains using the special effect paints diluted at
50% with water so they wouldn’t look too
shiny. I speckled this paint using a brush
and a toothpick and some other bigger
stains with a small pointed brush.
The base I used to deploy the model was
made of a plastic tray over which I pasted
some acrylic mud and some static grass
and sea ball hairs while it was still fresh.
Once it was a bit cured I placed the kit on
top pressing gently for the tracks to sink a
little on the terrain. I let it dry for a day and
then I airbrushed a thin green filter to shut
down the grass shine.

30
31
32
Sharotank
Scale; 1/35
Producer; Miniart

The idea of a spherical combat Vehicle has been considered as early as 1917 when
the German army built a prototype of the Treffaswagen; an armoured vehicle that had
two massive metal wheels at the sides and a tail to provide some stability. Some years
later the idea was still being considered by designers and engineers in other countries.
In 1942 Soviet L.P.Mokrousov chief engineer at the red star factory in Kharkov, proposed
the Protivotank, a 500ton spherical tank that was invulnerable to enemy fire and carried
massive guns to deal both with other tanks and fortifications.
The ball tanks, although considered and with some prototypes built, never prospered
anywhere and the idea has been left for the sci-fi world.

Miniart what-if

The What-if modality has proven successful within the modelling community and everyday
we can see more and more manufacturers consider this fictional history subjects to release
new model kits. This time is the Ukrainian firm Miniart that has started a series of AFV kits
based on blueprints and sketches of vehicles that were never built.
This new Soviet ball tank is a typical Miniart kit, very high quality, full interior, fine detail
and multiple marking options. The side doors can be fixed in either closed or opened
position so you can check the interior once finished.

33

1
3 exterior so most of the job will consist in painting
4 white as soon as I got enough of them grouped and
1 to 7 - Moslty all of the kits parts
are to build the interior of the ball tank.
Although it’s a sci-fy kit it’s plenty of
detail.
2
Roll with it
The kit instructions
are easy following
and guide us through
the cramped interior
with the structure that
supports the engine,
seats and weapons.
This part of the
building is the most
extended as most of
the parts belong to
the tank interior. It’s not until the last steps that we
will close the vehicle and add a few details to the
the interior parts while we build the vehicle before
closing it. Being a fictional subject the painting
choices can be limited only by your imagination but
some kind of logical limits can always be useful for
your tank to look plausible. You will surely never see
a tank with an interior painted black or bright blue,
etc. Choose the colours as if you were building any
other real vehicle from that era and nation.
With this idea in mind I primed all the interior parts
before it would be too messy reaching the details
with the brush.
I used various colours and acrylic washes to paint
the details and provide some shadows. Using the
Vallejo washes can be very easy if you remember
that is better not to dilute them, just apply with
a brush and let it deposit the pigment. Once dry
you can clean any excess with a cotton swab and
thinner.

34
 6
5 The rust texture
paint is very useful
also when used
as a wash as it not
only deposit the
pigment but also the
micro particles that
provides the texture
and an absolute
matt finish. Just mix
the paint with water
and use it as any
other wash. This is
an excellent trick for
7 engines for them to look worn and dirty.
After some pigments washes and graphite rubbing
I added the parts that I painted separately and the
ball tank was ready to be closed. I aligned both semi
hemispherical sides with the centre frame and glued
them.
I added the rest of the outside parts and primed
everything with 73609 4BO Soviet green. The four
pieces that form the track were primed with a dark
red colour as a base for a later intense rust process.
process.
better not to dilute them, just apply with a brush and
let it deposit the pigment. Once dry you can clean
any excess with a cotton swab and
thinner.

8 - I painted the inside

of the tank with a white
primer as a base for
some further weathering
although I didn’t plan to
leave the doors open to
see anything. Just for fun.

35
9 10 11

Next I proceeded to highlight the dark green

base using a couple of lighter green tones as filters 9 to 11 - Painting the details with
diluted at 85% with thinner and airbrushing them acrylic colours and some washes to
at the centre of the bigger surfaces and also from stand out the details.
above to imitate the zenithal illumination.
The kit provides a decals sheet with markings
for six different vehicles, all of them very
attractive so it was not easy choosing one.
In the end I decided to build the last
example in the painting instructions,
a supposed vehicle deployed in the
Berlin in 1945.
I airbrushed a layer of vinyl
gloss varnish and once dry I
placed the decals with the aid of
the Medium and Fix products to
ensure a perfect adaption to
the spherical surface.
When the decals were
dry I protected them with
another varnish layer, this time
satin.
I wanted the vehicle to look as if it
had survived many battles, worn and
a bit damaged so I insisted with the rust
using different products and techniques.
First of all I painted the track with the Vallejo rust
effect paint to provide a rough texture. I used this
paint directly from the can, without diluting it.

36
 Next I used a piece of sponge to paint some
chipping on the sides with a mix of black and
dark red primers. Then I used many acrylic
washes to provide a stained look using the
splattered wash technique, this is basically
splashing little dots of these filters with a brush
and a toothpick (or a toothbrush) over the
previously wetted with thinner surface. You
have to use one colour after another without
letting the surface dry. The little dots blur and
12 blend with the rest of the colours creating a
random stained look.
With that part of the painting done I proceeded
to paint the inner part of the front light and the
tires using various acrylic colours.
It was time now for one of my favourite
techniques, the using of iron powder to create
real rust. There are some paints out there
that include real iron in it that is sold with the
necessary rusting agent but there is no need
to use them as you can make your own easily.
Just buy some iron powder and mix it with a
little varnish and water, or even apply it without
13 the varnish, just let it deposit as a wash. Then
use a mix of white vinegar and bleach to rust it
and voila!

12 to 15 - The many parts already

painted are finally placed inside the tank
and over the cylindrical structure after
some chipping, rusting, staining,etc.

14

15
37
16
17

18

19

16 and 17 - After closing the tank I primed it using the Soviet

20 4BO colour.
18 - Then I highlighted some parts with a filter using a medium
green tone.
19 - An even lighter green filter provided the upper illumination.
20 - At uneven surfaces a glossy finish is advisable for a correct
decals placing.

38
21
22 21 - The Vallejo rust
effect paint is a perfect
base for this look due to
its colour and texture.
22 - Some chipping
using the sponge
technique and a dark
chocolate paint mix I got
always prepared.

23

I applied the iron at the track and speckled it

at the sides to create little but intense rust marks.
The effect was immediate and the rust very
convincing.
After that I used a dark brown oil wash to remark
the shadows around the details, I always got
some prepared in a bottle, just some old oils and
much turpentine. 24
The model was now very close to the final look,
a few more tricks and the job would be done. First I prepared a
pigment wash mixing some earth tone pigments with 95% water
in a little mechanical sprayer; I poured this mix all over the model
and let it dry. Once I was sure the amount of dust was not too
exaggerated I passed to the stains phase. For this I used the
Vallejo oil and fuel special effect products, diluted at 50% and
applied with a fine pointed brush.
Finally I used graphite pigment to rub some areas where the
metal is constantly exposed due to the friction. And this was all;
a very amusing project that took me just 5 days. While taking the
photographs I though it would be funny to create some collages 25
showing the ball tank as if it really existed and took part in the
WWII, you can see some of them in these pages.
23 - Specled filters over a humid base provide a stained
look.
24 - Time ot paint the details; wheels, machine guns and front
light.
25 - Real iron powder provides real rust.

39
26
28
27

29

30

26 - Rusting the iron with a mix of bleacj and vinegar.

27 - A dark oil wash to enhance the shadows around the details.
28 and 29 - Preparing the pigments wash for a dust coverage.
30 - The stained and battered look is convincing.

40
41
 Our friend from
The Martin Germany shares his
beautiful designs.
Another altruist
Csanadi gift modeller that joins
Blitzscales to provide
us with some very
galore useful stuff for our
models, just print and
enjoy.

1/35 scale
Mobiloil cartons

42
43
SMK
What-if soviet style
Scale; 1/35
Producer; Takom

The SMK was conceived to replace the massive multi turret T-35 which
was both expensive and unreliable. The SMK was designed at the Kirovski
Works at Leningrad and included torsion bars suspension, an 850hp
Mikulim GAM-34T aircraft engine that provided a top speed of 35km/h,
a 7 men crew and it was armed with 76,2mm L11 main gun and a 45mm
M1932 gun in independent turrets.
The armament was completed with three 7,62mm DT machine guns.
The only SMK built was assigned to the 91st tank battalion of the 20th
heavy tank brigade together with the prototypes of the two T-100 and two
KV tanks, all of them should be tested in combat during the Winter War
with Finland. There both multi turreted tanks proved being too heavy and
oversized in comparison with the KV so both projects were dropped in
favour of the single turret tank. This was the last time that the Soviet ever
considered the multiple turrets option for their tanks.

44
1 2

1- The model is massive, as large as the T-35.

2 - Having chosen a three tone camouflage I
started by the lightest tone.

Takom is constantly surprising us with new and exciting releases; some times their kits coincide
with similar ones from other brands but some others they’re previously unreleased kits and these
are the cases when modellers like me pay more attention.
This new model kit comes to fill a gap in the soviet multi turret heavy tanks evolution and now we
only have to wait for someone to release the T-100 to complete the “family”
The model kit is the usual Takom; well engineered, nicely detailed and easy building. In fact,
except for the separate links tracks you can build the whole model in a couple of hours. The box
includes a little decals sheet with a couple of red stars and slogans for some fictitious decorations
and four different painting schemes are also suggested.
Once finished the model looks pretty massive and aggressive and makes you
wonder how this juggernauts were supposed to fight in an urban environment.
It is obvious that this question was not considered in that time and the
tanks were supposed to be a support for the infantry and they
would not get in any tank vs. tank battle where a minimum of
speed and manoeuvrability would be needed. Although this
was not considered when designing these beasts it finally was
the reason for them to be replaced by single turreted tanks that tried to
balance firepower, protection and speed

45
3 4

5 6

3 to 7 - The
camouflage is painted
with diluted colours and
by hand as if made at
the front and not at the
factories.

46
 10
8 8 - After painting all the
camouflage colours I applied
some highlighting filters.
9 and 10 - I used the decals
provided in the kit placing them
at the side of both turrets.
11 - Some chipping using the
sponge technique. 11
12 - Speckling multiples
9 washes over the wetted surface
for a stained look.
13 - Standing out the details
is easy if you use a dark
colour wash. I always got
prepared some oils mixed with
turpentine.
With the kit completely built excepting for the tracks that 12
I left aside for placing after painting I just had to decide
what painting scheme would I use in my SMK. I finally
choose to depict it with a standard disruptive pattern
using colours 4BO, 5K and 7K, all of them included in the
Vallejo special set for Soviet WWII AFV.
I started priming the whole kit with 74614 IDF sand grey,
a close tone for the 7K yellow earth that would be the
base for the painting being the lighter of the three tones 13
involved. Then I airbrushed a thinned layer of 71283 yellow earth
and later highlighted with a filter using 71122 Desert tan thinned at
75%.
Instead of airbrushing the next colours I decided to paint the
large camouflage patches using a brush and diluted colours for an
uneven coverage as if the camouflage was painted at the
front, not in the best conditions.
I used 71012 Dark Green diluted at 60%
and painting with a medium
brush trying not to charge it
with paint too much to avoid
unwanted spillages.
Then I repeated
the process using
71282 6K Russian
brown mixed with a
little black to darken
it.
Whenever I want
my camouflaged AFV
colours to look a little
faded I use a general filter
that I call the “atmospheric
filter”. This is basically a light
earth or sand filter that soften the
contrast of the camo colours while
give them a dusty look. In this case I
used 76552 Desert Dust airbrushed all
over the model.
47
14 15
14 - I painted the metal exposed
parts with a steel colour paint.
15 to 17 - The tracks were painted
dark brown, then a layer of rust
effect paint mixed with light rust
pigment and later drybrushed with
steel colour.
18 - To make the tank look battered
I used real iron powder that I later
rusted with bleach and vinegar.
17
18
48
16
I applied a layer of gloss varnish at both turret sides for a
better decals adherence and once dry I placed them with the
aid of the Vallejo decals medium and fix products.
After protecting the decals with another layer of varnish
I proceeded to replicate some chipping on the paint using
the sponge technique and a mix of reddish brown and black
paints. Next I used many acrylic washes to create a stained
filter speckling little dots of all of them over the previously
wetted with thinner surface, the key here is not letting the
surface dry while we speckle once and again the washes so
the dots can blur and melt with the rest of the colours.
I remarked the recessed lines and detail using a home
made oil wash that I applied with a big brush, once dry I
eliminated the excess with clean turpentine.
I usually use graphite to make the wheels contact surface
look polished but this time I decided to paint them using a
steel acrylic paint to ease the process.
 20
19

19 - The pigments wash is a fast and easy

trick to lay an homogeneous dust layer.
20 and 21 - Speckling diluted oil and fuel paints
provide a very nice effect when over a pigment
covered surface. The pigment is a natural dust
coverage that absorbs the paints humidity as in
the real life.

At this stage I let the model rest for a while and

put some attention to the tracks; after gluing some
lengths and adapt them to the many wheels I painted
them using a dark red primer and later a mix of the
Vallejo rust texture effect paint mixed with a lighter 21
pigment, this altered the tone and let it dry faster. 22
Then I used the previous steel colour to paint the
part of the links that rub the wheels. When they were
ready I placed them on the model.
In order to make the SMK look a bit battered I used
iron powder to make rust accumulations here and
there. I mixed the iron with water and speckled little
dots more or less randomly and deposited larger
amounts with a brush at some zones. When the
water dried I moistened the iron several times with a
mix of bleach and vinegar using a small sprayer and
waiting some hours between applications.
After 4 or 5 rusting washes the effect was evident
so I cleaned the exceeding iron with a dry brush and 22 - ¨The graphite pigment can be
protected the work with a layer of matt varnish. rubbed with a cotton swab, a hard brush,
While I started looking for some accessories to put a cloth or your own fingertip, every
on the side fenders I prepared a mix of earth tone method is fine.
pigments and much water to apply the pigments 23 - I added some stowage to the tank to
wash, I applied it at least three times altering the make it look more “operative”
pigments tones to create a dense and uneven dusty
effect. Then I speckled some oil and fuel stains using
a brush and a toothpick and diluting the special effect
paints at 50%.
The last effect was rubbing some zones with
graphite pigment using a cotton swab and the
fingertip.
I painted the wooden crates in a natural wood tone
as if they weren’t at the tank when it was painted.
The rest of the rolls and packs were made out of a
vinyl globe and painted as any other plastic piece. 23
49
50
51
52
53
54
Scale; 1/35
Producer; Amusing Hobby

The Panzerkampfwagen 38(d) was a modified and expanded version of the Panzer 38(t) that
was to have been used as the basis for a family of new weapons that would have substituted both
Panzer III and IV family. The Panzer 38(d) would have been similar to the later versions of the
Panzer 38(t), but slightly larger to make room for the German TATRA 12 cylinder air-cooled diesel
engine that would have produced 210-220hp. By the middle of 1944 the Germans were planning
to phase out production of the Panzer IV chassis (as used on the StuG IV) and replace it with a
combined Panzer III/IV chassis. This change wasn’t to have taken place until the summer of 1945,
but in the autumn of 1944 the Panzer III/IV was cancelled and most future armoured vehicles
(apart from the Panther and Tiger families) were to be built on either the Panzer 38(t) or Panzer
38(d) chassis. The Panzer 38(d) would have been able to carry the 7.5cm PAK 42 (L/70) as used
on the Panzer IV/70, as well as other armament to fulfil the infantry support and antiaircraft roles.
The Panzer 38(d) was also to have been the basis of two self-propelled artillery vehicles, the
Leichter Einheitswaffentrager, which could have carried a 10.5cm or 88mm gun and the Gerat 578
Waffentrager. Although some prototypes were built none of the vehicles based on the panzer 38D
chassis were finally built.

55
1 1 - The Amusing Hobby kit is an easy
project for an average modeller with very
good fitting and detail. A few Photoetched
parts provides the more subtle details.
The whole model can be built in less than
two hours.

2 - I decided to paint my model with the famous

late war Ambush scheme camouflage of dots over
large patches using the standard three colours for
German AFV. I started covering the kit with a light
sand primer.
3 - A dark yellow wash filter, the result was not the one
I expected.
4 - I used blue tac to cover the large patches to remain
yellow before airbrushuing the next colour.

The kit
Amusing Hobby has released this kit a few months ago depicting the Panzerkampfwagen 38(d)
armed with a 8cm PAW 600 anti tank gun on a Panzer IV turret. The PAW 600 was a lightweight anti
tank gun that used the high-low pressure system to fire hollow charge warheads. In 1945, it was
used operationally by the Wehrmacht in small numbers. Only about 250 were produced before the
war’s end. The 8H63 (official designation) firing an explosive round was comparable to the 7.5 cm
infantry gun and had a greater range.
As every Amusing Hobby kit, this one is easy building, no delicate parts that requires careful
handling, good fit and the instructions are very easy understanding so all the building process can
take us not more than a couple of hours. The only tedious part is building the separate links tracks,
for this you have to clean and click together every plastic link
56
 Buiilding and painting

I built the kit following the instructions straightforward leaving aside the wheels and tracks for an
easier painting.
Although the kit instructions suggest four different camouflage schemes without markings I decided
to paint mine using the typical ambush pattern seen in late Tiger II tanks. For this I started painting
the whole tank using 73613 Light sand primer, later I airbrushed a layer of dark yellow acrylic wash
76503. The colour I got was not appealing at all but I decided to go on to see how it matched with
the other tones. I masked some large patches using blue tac and then airbrushed 71092 Medium
Olive, after masking again I used 71271 German red brown to cover the rest of the vehicle.
When I peel off the masks the result was shocking, the colours combination was simply horrible!
There were two options to solve this; I could start painting again or I could correct the tones using
some filters. I decided for this second strategy and prepared some correcting filters to highlight both
the yellow and green zones.
After airbrushing the filters I painted the irregular spots by hand using 71106 Ivory and 71094 Zinc
green.
5
6

7
5 to 8 - I used the colours in the vallejo set for German
AFV for the camouflage correcting some odd tones and
contrasts using different filters that I airbrushed locally.
Finally the colours matched my idea for the base so I painted
the irregular yellow and green spots by hand with a small
pointed brush.

57
9 11

12

10

9 - I used the rust effect paint for the

tracks, exhaust and a subtle wash.
10 and 11 - The black and dark brown
acrylic washes provided the shadowing to
stand out the details.
12 and 13 - I used a few decals from my
spares box, I placed them over the gloss
varnished surface with the aid of the
Vallejo special helping products to ensure
a perfect adherence.
washes to enhance the shadows around the
details, recessed lines and
13
Before going on I used some dark acrylic
corners. I
applied them with a medium brush
without diluting as they’re
designed to be
used this way.
After painting the tools, exhaust,
etc. I varnished with gloss for
the decals placing. Once
dry I used the Decals
medium and fix products to
ensure a perfect adherence.
The decals provided in the
kit were not the ones I liked for
my tank so I looked for other ones
at my spares box, German WWII
crosses and numbers are always easy
to find.

58
 14 - I painted some chipping with a little sponge 14
piece.
15 and 16 Some home made oil washes provided both
depth and a first dust accumulation.
17 - The matt varnished was necessary to shut off the
shiny finish.
18 - The recurrent pigments wash was more subtle in
this model.
16
15

17 With
the decals
placed and
secured with
another varnish
layer I started
painting some
chipping using a
mix of black and
18 dark reddish
brown colours
applied
with a
little piece of
sponge. After
19 that I applied a new dark
wash made with black and brown oils
mixed with much turpentine and then another one made
of old Humbrol earth tones paints leftovers mixed with
turpentine to add a first dust layer.
All these washes gave the model a little shiny look so I
varnished with matt before going on.
20 The next phase was the pigments wash, I prepared
some earth colour tones mixed with 95 thinner in a
mechanical sprayer and poured the mix generously all
over the model.
Once this wash dried I proceeded to eliminate some
excess with a clean dry brush and then used the oil and
fuel special paints to imitate some spill and stains over
19 - Some oil and fuel stains can the hull.
bring some more interest to the model. The last touch, as always, was imitating the polished
20 - Final touch, rubbing some graphite metal using graphite, a pencil and some pigment rubbed
for the exposed metal using a pencil. with the fingertip did the job.

59
www.fcmodeltrend.com

60
www.fcmodeltrend.com

61
62
63
64