White 816 Sewing Machine Instruction Manual

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INDEX
[Item]
ceatures and [Page] [item]
Parts
Needle Thread Cha
-
2-3-4 Blind Stitch Hem [Page]

rt
---—
Wind.ng the Bobbin 5 Manual Opemtion - 30

Upper TIirading 8-7 How to use Accessories 31
SettingtheNoedle 8-9 Narrow Henwner 32
Threading the Bobbin 10 LaceTrinrnedHem 32
Case
Placing Bobbin Cas 11 Lace Edg, with inviable 33
e in Shuttle Stitching
Setting Stitch Length 12 French Seam 33
StitchLengthChart 13 Hemming Across a Sea
Sewing in Reverse 13 m
OuiltingGuide 33
Adjusting the Tenaion 14 Seam Gauge or Cloth 34
s 14-15 Guide
Adjusting Pressure and 34
-
Feed Cleaning and Oiling

General Sewing 15 Shuttle 35
- - -
Care and Maintenance
Light Weight Fabrics 15 of your Machine 36
How to replace the ligh
Darning and Mending 15 t bu
Accessories 37
Preparing to sew 16 Trouble Chart 38
Removing the Work 16 Attachments 39-4 1
Straight Stitching 17 Attachment Foot 43
Changingoffleedlepleto 18 Edgestitcher 44
Setting Needle Pos
-
18-19 Binder 44.45

ition
Twin I5 20 Henrner 46
Samples of Creativ 21 Ruffler 47-48
e Errroidery
Eittwoidering with 22-23 Sewing in Zipper 49-50
a Hoop
tiuttonoles 24 The Adjustable Cordin 51
Sewing on Buttons 25-26 g and Zipper Foot
Installing Sewing Head in Por 52
tLretch Stitch 27 table Case 53
To Assemble Legs on Cabinet
Multiple Zigzag 28 s 54
Stitch Installing Sewing Head in Cab
29 inet 55
Adjusting and Changing “V”
Belt 56
©
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0
FEATURES AND PARTS
(Front View)
cj)Take up Lever
©Orop Feed Control
Pressure Release (Darning)
Jj) Reverse Stitch Adjustment Lever
® Arm Thread Guides
® Needle Clamp Screw
®Zigzag Stitch Width Control
®Needle Plate
®Needie Position Control
®Cover Plate
®Pattern Selector Dial
©Presser Foot
®Hand Wheel
®Attachment and Foot Thu
mb Screw
®Stitch Length Control
®Thread Guide
® Bobbin Winder
® Tension
iBobbin Winder Tension
(Fig. 2) ®Sew Lite Switch
®Push Button Reverse
Stretch Lever
1Bobbijj Winder Tension

Fig. 2
JPresser Bar Lifter
®Head Hinge Mounting
Holes
® Thread Cutter ®Spool Pins
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NEEDLE-THREAD-FABRIC-STITC
HING GUIDE
Fabric Needle Machine

Stitches Cotton Mercerized Silk or
No Thread Thread Nylon
Per Inch
Extremely heavy
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tarpaulin, sacking, 4 10 to
canvas, duck, etc. 6 to 8 Heavy Duty
30
Heavy upholstery fabric,
ticking, denim, leatherette 3 (18) 8 to 10 30 to
Heavy Duty
40
all
Medium heavy drapery

fabric, velveteen, suiting, 2 (16) 40 to
felt, terry, etc. 10 to 12 Heavy Duty
60
Medium broadcloth,
percale, gingham, linen,
chintz, taffeta, sheer wool, 1 (1 4) 12 to 14 60 to
80 50 A
shantung, etc.
Sheer voile, lawn, dimity,
crepe, handkerchief linen, 14 to 16
0(11) (Plastic film) 80 to
plastic film, etc. 100 50 A
8 to 10
Very sheer chiffon,
batiste, lace, organdy, 100 to
ninon, net, nlarquisette, oo 16 to 20 150 50 A
etc.
()
\
1:
11
WINDING THE BOBBIN
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Disengage the handwheel (1, Fig. 4) from the stitching mecha
nism by turning the
chatch (2, Fig. 4) toward you or counter clockwise. Place a
spool of thread on one of
the spool pins and lead thread through the arm thread guide
(3, Fig. 3). Run end of
thread through a hole in the bobbin edge and place
bobbin on spindle of bobbin winder
(4, Fig. 3) fitting the notch on bobbin over small pin on spindle
. Push bobbin winder
(5, Fig. 3) to the right, and hold thread end
loosely then start machine slowly.
Bobbin will stop winding when it is filled. Turn clutch away
from you until sewing
mchanisn is again engaged so that needle moves when
you turn the hand wheel.
Break off loose thread end used to start the winding.
UPPER THREADING
1. Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise
the
take-up lever to its highest position.
2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
3. Lead the thread through the upper arm threa
d
guides.
4. Down and between tension discs from
right to
Left.
5. Draw the thread up through the check
spring
and with a slight tug into the hook,
(See insert,
Fig. 6
6. Then up through the eye of the take-
up lever
from right to left.
7. Lead thread down, through the thread guid
e 19
and face plate guides then through the
needle
bar guide.
8. Thread needle FROM front to back, draw
ing it
through about 3 or 4 inches. Hold the
end of
the upper thread loosely and turn the hand
wheel
toward you until the needle goes all the
way
down and comes back up. A loop (Fig.
7 ) will
be formed over the upper thread whic
h then
can be pulled out straight. Place both
thread
ends under the presser foot and draw Fig. 7
toward
the back of the machine, leaving both
threads
three or four inches long.
ETTG ThE 1EEDLE

See Fig. 8. Raise the needle bar
(A)to its highest point,
yoi y by turning hand wheel
oosen needle clamp scr toward
ew (B) and then needle
can be removed or re
(FHt
far a it will go into needle
clamp hole. Tighten the
Needle clamp screw (B)
driver. securely
.h* noede, rnakQ

one complete rov
by -ind ohitlon ot the han
-
to h’ jure the needk s In the d wheel

correct poeltlor
.
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11
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

Step I (illustrated in Fig. 9). Hold bobbin case betw
een thumb and forefinger of left
hand, so that the slot in the edge of the bobbin
case is on top, take the bobbin between
thumb and forefinger of right hand so that the
thread on top leads from left to right.
Step 2 Insert bobbin into bobbin case, pull the threa
d into the slot of the bobbin case
as shown in Fig. 10, and draw it under the tension
spring and into the fork-shaped open
ing of the spring as shown in Fig. 11.
TENSION SPRIG
L— F
Fig. 10 Fig. 11
\G BiN CS
aise need! her to

F’
/ cover plate. (See 16 Fig.
1) Hold the bir’ cs
iatch (D, Fig. 12), between
\// of the left hand, with at
the thumb and forefinger
least three inches of threa
running horn the top of d
the bobbin case to the right.
lnsert and center the bobbin
case on the sttd of the
shuttle body, (C). Be sure
the bobbin case finger
is opposite the shuttle (E)
race notch, (A). Press
bobbin case (B) into the the
shuttle as far as possible
until latch catches on
the center post of the shuttle
.
Then release the bobbin
case latch, (0). Press bob
bin case again after latch
has been released to make
the bojbin case is locked
secu;ely.
12 Close the cover plate.
13
SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH
The length of the stitch is regulated by the dial shown

in Fig. 13-A. Near 0 is the shortest stitch and 5 is
the longest, but the control may be set at any spot
between the markings for a variety of engths. Turn
the dial to the right to lengthen and to the left to
shorten the stitch. The number stitch length you
choose appears over the indicator.
A
Fig. 13-A
STITCH LENGTH CHART (Approximate)
Figures on indicator 0 1 2 3 4 5
Number of stitches per inch No Feeding 30 25 15 8 6

-
-i . J 4 W
;.. :w ca?d O ie tie L

oad .t hC begin
button (A3 Flo. 13A) .s far ning or end
;w m . of a seam,
as long as the button is m ac hi W
held in. SW backward
TENSIONS
.
the uppe
r tension with the
when i is raid. To presser foot c as the tension is re
increase the tens leased
-gnt. lo cecruase ion on the upper th
, turn to the left. read, t di 1 (Fig. 3) to :-
tension be sure th
chine is threaded pro at thi. ia
perly. When necessa
the bobbin tension, tur ry to change
n small screw (Fig.
of the bobbin case cl 14 ) on side
ockwise to tighte
clockwise to loosen n, counter
.
wions are prope
rly balnced,
will be formed with
both thads inter
ii fabric (Fig.
15).
When the upper tens
ion is too tight, th
is pulled up over the e lower thread
upper thread which
on the fabric (Fig. is lying flat
16). When the uppe
too loose, the upper r tension is
thread forms loop
lower thread lying fla s over the
t on the fabric (F Fig. 13
ig. 17).
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Fig. 15
Fig. 16
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Fig. 14 Fig. 17
Fig. 18
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ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING

OF FABRIC
General Sewing. Usually for normal sewing the pressure bar cap or
darner release, (B, Fig. 18) is at its lowest position and the drop
feed knob is turned to “High” position, Fig. 19.
Sewing Thin or Light Weight Fabrics. When lighter pressure is re
quired to sew satisfactorily on thin silk or flimsy material, the pres
sure cap should be about halfway down. Release all the way by
pressing the snap lock, (A, Fig. 20), and then press cap (B) down
again to halfway spot. Lower the feed slightly by turning the black
- - t 3 “Low” position.
Fig. 19
rection for darning, and endi :: :

n, rlD; j
tely by pressing down
on the snap lock, (A, Fig
urn the knob to “DOWN . 20).
” position, which drops
the feed well
he needle plate. To roturn
feed to normai, return knob to
TO SEW
Have take-up lever at hig
hest point before starting
rv to help the feeding to sew. Do not
by pulling the material as
the needle and cause it this may deflect
to break.
EVR run mchne withou
t mate1al under th pre
-
sser foot. Fig. 20
ads in positio, m2e
rassr ar
the ;. Thot.
T urn the hand wheel toward
you until the needle is
ready to begin sewing. By at its highest point. Yo
having the needle at its u are now
touch the hand wheèt to sta highest point, it is not ne
rt the machine. You me cessary to
the machine is regulated rel y pre ss the control. The speed of
by increasing or decrea
the control. sig the amount of pressu
re exerted on
17
REMOVING THE WORK

Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take-up lever and needle bar
are at the
highest position. Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and
to the left,
Fig. 21-A and B, and pass the threads over the thread cutter. Pull down slightly,
holding
thread in both hands, so as not to bend the needle. Leave the ends of thread under
the
presser foot.
L I”
d’..
—
Fig. 21-A Fig. 21-B

______
__
or o fine fabric
or ver’ ‘1’ it is advis- o
to sraijht stitch press
stitch nee-
ck p’ate which are im Hed in your
sve narrow Fig. 22
red!e ots. Fig. 23
#14ANGE AS FOLLOWS
(1) Presser Foot
(A) Loosen thumb screw (18, Fig. 1) and remove zigzag
presser foot.
) witS straight stitch presser foot (Fig.
23).
(.) te (16, Fiç. 1) to the front as far as pos&S!e.

(B) Remove screws holding needle plate (15, Fig. 1)
to bed plate.
(C) Remove zigzag needle plate.
(D) Replace with straight stitch needle plate (Fig. 22-B).
19
When using the straight stitch

needle plate and foot, be sure
setting before starting to sew or to make the following
the needle will break in strikin
r.late. g the foot or needle
Set Your Machine as Follows

) Needle posititon control “A” Fig. 24 at
C
(center). _w B C.
2) Decorative stitch dial “B” for
straight
stitch in.
(3) Zigzag width con
trol “C” at “0”.
(c) Stretch stitch control “D” at “M”
.
(5) Stitch length control “E” at suit
material 0
being sewn.
ee page 13 for stitches per inch.
Fig. 24
3TG PLE
POST!O
Thn ba should b at its highes
t poh dctr nedh
Learing the fabric or bendin osidon o avoid
g the needle.
Select needle position L1 rig.
1jht hand positioneC
center and
L” !ft.
,‘ st.i i’ iae most of IN
your work will
done. L 01
“4 . iLILCi1. c
R°’
m
Stretch stitching.
Designs.
Hundreds of other uses.
Fig. 25-A
hand position can be use
d for:
.co
ng a so crth)
Hundreds of other uses.

The left hand position is bes tN
t for sewing on button
s.
L.
es
R
Fig. 25-B
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21
TWIN NEEDLES—UPPER
THREADING AND SEWI
NG
1. Be sure zigzag needle plate and
presser foot are in place.
2. Set needle position control 5 Fig.-258 at
twin needle position. This will set
a stop
to prevent the zigzag width control movin
g beyond the number 3 position.
3. Follow threading instructions for
single needle with these exc
a. place two spools of thread, mat eptions:
ching or contrasting in colo
pin. r, one on each spoo
b. Lead both threads through arm
thread guides.
c. Bring threads down and around
tension discs with one thread
back discs and the other betw passing between the
een the front discs.
Now treat both threads as one
until you reach the needle eye
d. Pass one thread through eac .
h needle eye(Fig. 26).
4. The maximum zigz
ag stitch width that can
be sewn when using
needle is at the number twin
3 setting of the zigzag
Any position above the wid th con tro l
number 3 position will
break the twin needle.
5 Straight stitchin
g and decorative stitc
h designs can be produc
in the same manner ed
as for single needle sew
maximum zigzag wid ing exc ept for the
th
Fig. 26
(
‘:i at 5 width then allow knob to spnng back
to 0 for a short
f necessary, to establish a rhythm.
‘“ Set zigzag width control at the second line then

move the control slowly back and
n the Stop and Number 5.
:iidth at the first line. Gradually move the

control from the Stop to
allowing it to snap back quickly.
“0” Set zigzag width at 5, stitch length at 2. Sew

a few zigzag stitches. Drop feed (F,
Fig. 24) for 3 or 4 stitches then raise it again
. By operating the drop feed knob
rhythmically it i not necessary to count stitch
es.
cinq the needle position and varying the mov
ement of the controls, hun
cn he produced.
-“
J;g .iob at Oown position and lock zigzag widt

h control at the number
5 position. Take 3 or 4 stitches, leave needle
in fabric and pivot fabric on needle
to make next daisy petal. Continue until flow
er design is completed. Lock threads
by setting stitch width at 0 and sewing
3 or 4 stitches in center of design.
23
CREATIVE EMBROIDERY
e sure zigzag presser foot and zigzag need
le plate are In place.
1 Set decorative stitch control (B, Fig. 24 at

.
) “M”
position.
2. Set needle position control at “L” position. Fig. 27
3. With the zigzag width control (C, Fig. 24) set
at the Number 5 and stitch length
control (E, Fig. 24) as near 0 as possible with
out stopping the feeding action, a satin
stitch is produced (Fig. 27)
4. With the machine set for a short stitch length,
different designs can be made by
turning the zigzag width control back and forth
between 0 aid 5 or any other
combinations of widths. Try setting the zigzag width control
at (C, Fig. 24) the
first line and the various other lines.
Set a rhythm for yourself and then proceed. A
After awhile you will become quite skillful, vary-
ing your designs by the speed of the machine, B
stifth frrigth and manipulation of the zigza
g C
width control.
o wwwwyw
E
Fig. 28
WITH A HOOP
j LO iaow .i arnped design
or to
‘k hand when embroidering or
rnono
(See FL. .‘) R3ease the pre
ssure
irom the toot by pressing dow
n the snap lock
on the crnr. Turn the dro
p feed knob to
pivn (eo pig. 29).
n omrcide hoop, and
place under the needle after
removing the
rser root. Set the stitch
width at the size
you prefer and lower the pre
sser bar lifter.
Thon operate the machine
at a rather high
speed while moving the
hoop slowly with Fig. 29
od hands. ‘i corefully and be sure
to kee
‘
p fingers out of the pat

‘dp itches the fabric is h of the needle.
not stretched tight eno
(c attachments available ugh or a darning
from yourdealer illustra
this book). ted in the back of
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BUTTONHOLES
Various widths and lengths can be mad
e automatically by
turning the dial (C, Fig. 24)
To establish the correct length buttonhole
required add inch
to the cutting space for bar tacks.
To obtain the length of the cutting space,
the opening through
-g
which the button passes, is measured by

adding the width (A)
and thickness (B) of the button (Fig.
32).
The width of the buttonhole sides are gove
rned by the material
used. Set zigzag stitch width control on num
ber 5 for thick
material and a lower number forthin mate Fig. 30
all
rial.
Mark the beginning arid end of the buttonhol
e on fabric with a
basting line or tailor’s chalk. Make one on scrap fabric
following directions below to be sure mach
ine adjustments are
Co rrrect.
1. Replace presser foot with special purp
ose buttonhole foot.
This provides maximum visibility and allow Fig. 31
s closely spaced
HH*
stitches to feed evenly (Fig. 31).
2. Set neede an left position
3. Set zigzag stitch width control (C, Fig.
24) to suit material
being sewn or width of buttonhole desired
(number 5 for the
widest buttonhole).
4. Set stitch length control (E, Fig.
24) as close to 0 as possible
without stopping the feeding action.
5. Set stretch stitch control at man Fig. 32
ual position.
d ortv. stitch dial (A, Fig. 34) to sew

the left
side (Step 1). Lower needle carefully into mark
on
fabric indicating the end of the buttonhol
e. Lower
presser foot arH sew entire length of
buttonhole Si SI
(Forward feeding).
T Ti
. With need’e out of the cloth, set decoratvo TI
stitch
dial ft (Step 2). Sew 4 or 5 stitches.
1112.
cloth, set decorative stitch dial
to sew right side of the buttonhole (Step
3). This Fig. 33
eding motion.
9. With needle out of the cloth, set deco
rative stitch A _—B
dial for bar tack (Step 4). Sew 4 or
5 stitches.
10. If the stitch density on the buttonhole
sides are
‘:1
different adjust by moving lever (‘B” Fig.
34) to
( ) or left ( + ).
—
ch density on th right hand ade

hc move lever ‘B” to the right (
—).
To increase the feeding move B” to the left
(±).
PLEASE NOTE:
If you plan to make buttonholes
on sheer or soft
material, place tarlatan or
paper under fabric which Fig. 34
can be torn away after stitchin
g.
27
SEWING ON BUTTONS
1. Remove presser foot and replace with special purpose button sewing
foot (Fig. 36)
2. Turn drop feed knob to “DN” position (Fig. 35).
3. Set zigzag width control at “0”
4. Set needle position control at “L” and decorative stitch dial at “M”
Place the button so that its left hole comes directly under the presser Fig. 36
foot.
5. Set the zigzag width control to produce a zigzag stitch until the
needle enters the right hand hole of the button. Turn the balance
wheel slowly by hand to be sure the needle clears both holes in the
utton. Correct width if necessary.
6. When needle goes into the center of each hole, run the machine at
a medium speed, making five or six stitches, stopping with the needle
in the left hole.
7. To lock the zigzag stitch and prevent ravelling,
-
set the zigzag stitch width control to 0 (remem

bering its original setting) and take a few stitches
in the same hole. If you wish, you may place a
rounded toothpick over the button between the
two holes, and sew button to fabric in the regular
way. Remove the toothpick and wind thread under
Fig. 35 button forming a shank to fasten.
FIg. 38
STRETCH STITCH
- Needle Stitch Ziza Stretch Needle
[ Len
.
Stitch Zigzag
2s Position gth Width
---..
C 5 0
iWV’MN LCR 0.5—5 1 —5 LC B
I,
1 —5
— -I
ZEZz_
y\ 0.5 3 “ —r77- LCR 5 1 —5
Si—
t/\/\ ,t
,,
cS
.
5 $S
:
,,
——
“
“
F ‘
—
,,
,,
LYYY ////_
When sewing at the stretch stitc
hing, be sure to set the
lever (22, Fig. 1) Ni “SS” pos stretch
ition with red indicator on
top cover.
29
MULTIPLE ZIGZAG STITC

H
A A I A A A
I I/ A A A A A
‘I I I ‘I / I
/ V V V I ‘I
V V V V V V V
Fig. 40
A. Use zigzag needle plate and pre

sser foot.
B. Set stitch length control to suit-Number
5 for the widest width.
C. Set decorative stitch dial at mu
ltiple zigzag stitch.
0. Set zigzag width control at Num
ber 5 for widest stitch.
USE:
When replacing worn blanket
bindings for both a
decorative and durable finish.
Fig. 41.
When overcasting an edge to pre
vent fraying.
When applying elastic waist ban
ds to skirts and
dresses be sure to stretch the
elastic as it is
applied to insure fullness require
d in the garment.
J When sewing a zigzag stitch
material it will prevent pucker
on soft or sheer
ing.
Therc . ...a of other uses which
will become apparent as you use the mac
hine.
zag foot (Fig. 42).

fltrOl at number 3 or 4.
Needle position control at ‘Center” position.
itch width to suit material being sewn.
The lower tc r ber, the smaller the sidewise 2tich.
provide a durable hem finish that is
almcst invisible and comparable to hand sewing.
Fig. 42
Prepare the garment in the same manner as for hand
m
hemming.
COMPLETED
// STEP STEP STEP
I 2
.co
4
/ /
/ /
Step 1. (Fig. 43)Jf hem with folded edge is used make first fold deep.
Step 2. Turn hem to the depth desired and baste 3’” from upper edge. Press in place.
Step 3. Fold hem back toward right side of garment leaving ,‘-I extended.
es
Step 4. Place material under presser foot, sew with stitch length set to suit material
being sewn and make a side wise stitch about every of an inch of sewing.
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MANUAL OPERATION
Be sure standard zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle
plate are in place and machine is set for manual oper
at ion. Use for:
OVERCASTING WORN EDGES
Zigzag stitch along the worn edges, catching the fabric
as the needle swings to the left, and allowing the needle
to just pass over the edge of the fabric on the right
(Fig. 45).
PATCHiNG Fig. 44
Machine bastes patch into place by placing fabric under
hole or worn area which has been cut away. Then
zigzag stitch the patch into place by overcasting around
dge o Lci&.
APPLIQUE
Fig. 44-Baste design to fabric and zigzag stitch follow
ing the shape of the design outlining it entirely and
remove excess material on the outer edge by trimming
it away af Ler stitching. Fig. 45
Fig. 46as-e design to fabric and overcast a zigzag
stitch around the design outlining it entirely.
Hundred of others uses will become apparent as you
continue to use the machine. Try the mulitple zigzag
stitch for these operations. Also, for best result set
trol slower when sewing around contours and
faster for straight lines.
Fig. 46
Li)W iR: With needle at its highest position

ioot with narrow hemmer (Fi.
47) being sure to tighten it securely in place. Set
1’r ltor dial at manual position, need
le pos
i1onir contro criter, zigzag stitch width control
at
.:.; hem or at number 3 for zigzag
titchd hem. St stitch length control to suit.
ror a plain narrow hem make a 3’ inch double fold
for
about two inches along edge of fabric. Hold each
end
of the two inch fold and slip underneath hemmer.
Bring
fold up into the scroll of HEMMER, draw fabric forwar
d
ar fctn with needle point. Lower presser
: nd of threat o you start itch i
titchd heoi Fig. 49 br zzac
stitched hem).
Guide material slightly to left and it will take a
double
turn through scrolL
The narrow hem provides an excellent finish for
edges
of ruffles or any other dainty work
Fig. 49
33
LACE TRIMMED HEM

To sw a navrow hem and atta
ch lace in one stitching,
insert lace ri the slot next to need
le (Fig. 51), Sew hem
-
:
as above, guid ing lace under needle and hem
Rickrack may be used in the same into scroll. /
EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STIT
Hold lace 3 inch from raw edge on right
way.
fabric, insert both in scroll as for plain

52); let hem roll over and sew in lace.When
CHING
hand side of
narrow hem (Fig.
• •z,.;:
the stitching Fig. 51
is completed, the hem is pressed to the
wrong side.
F9EPICH SEAM
Pic material with right sides
facing each other and the
piece of material 3 inch from right hand
edge of lower
piece. Insert in hemmer scroll allowing hem
to roll over and
sew in top fabric making French seam.
For cording effect,
use zigzag stitch wide enough to catch
both edges of the
narrow rolled hem and -sew with satin
stitch. This can
vering chairs and so forth (Fig. 53).
I HEMMING ACROSS A SEAM
To hem across a seam, cut the seam
-
folds at an angle so they will lead

into the hemmer gradually. Press seam
open. Stitch across the seam at the ex
• trem e edge to hold it together and for
added firmness. It may be necessary
- to pull the material slightly when hem
Fig. 50 ming over the seam (Fig. 50)
. Fig. 53
Use tnaS gwce fo making parallel rows of straight or

..corative stitching. Attach standard presser foot.
Slip U shaped holder on guide under presser foot Fig. 54
thurn the back and tighten screw (Fig.
58). Adjust the curved bar for the dista
nce desired
between rows of stitches ard set so t res
ss siigh
Ey letting the guide ride on the
rvious Une, successive rows wiB b an
‘qual distance apart (Fig. 58).
rig. 56
SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE Fig. 57
Use the seam gauge as a guide for strai
ght seams
and even rows of top stitching alon
g edge of fabric
(Fig. 57).
Fasten Gauge (Fig. 55) with accompanying screw
(Fig.
53) in threaded hole in bed of machine. Adjust
to desired
width.
m
.co
es
35
uid
CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE

(See Fig. 59 and 60)
The stitch forming mechanism occasionally beco
mes clogged with loose threads and
lint. This will interfere with the efficient oper
ation of the machine. Cleaning and
-g
removal of the lint will safeguard the perfo

rmance. To remove the shuttle assembly,
proceed as follows:
1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle
reaches its highest position. Tilt head
back on its hinges.
all
bobbin case (A), Fig. 59

3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B)
outward and remove the shuttle
race cover (C) and shuttle-body (D).
FIg. 59 Fig. 60
the siuttle ad shufl

lint, etc. e race eo’ie wing aD thr
,‘
eads,
5. &op of oil with finger
tip to outer edge of sh
uttle.
assembly: rczed a to repiace the sh
uttle
th ‘nc. wheel unt
il the needle reaches
2. r’lace shutk body, its highest positkn.
(D), against shuttle dri
ver and adjust into
.; iUle race cover, (C), pesiton.
fitting pin at lower edg
iro postiorr with shutt e into notch, and loc
le race cover clamps, k
have been snapped sec (B), making certain th
urely into position. e cla mp s
4. Put bobbin into bobbin
case.
CARE AND MAINTE

NANCE OF YOUR
o c.. MACHINE
YCUR MACHINE
nachnc should be oil
ed occasionally to
keep it operating smoot
hly, how often depend
the amount o eewing s
you do.
Before oiling the upper
part of the sewing uni
at points indicated by t
arrows in (Fig. 61 turn
hand wheel toward you )
until the take-up lever
is at its lowest point.
Fig. 61
37
To oil mechanism under bed of machine, tip

the head back on its hinges and oil all
moving parts indicated by arrows Figures
62 & 63 and red spots on machine.
I
Fig. 63
HOW TO REPLACE THE LIGHT BULB

Open Face (Fig. 62). Unscrew bulb and insert new one.
For long life and correct size, be sure it is a genuine
White part.
()
00
© °o
1-) &lcd arid filled).

‘. Package of Needles (5 Str
aight).
© Presser Foot for Straight Sewing.
) Large Screw Driver. ® Narrow Hemmer.
(, Small Screw
D[ver. © Twin Needles.
Quilter Guide. © Thumb Screw.
©Cloth Guide. Felt Washers(2) (for spool
pins).
() Button Sewing Foot. f4 bbins (3).
Bo
) Buttonhole Foot. Needle Plate for Straig
ht Sewing.
39
TROUBLE CHART
Trouble Probable Cause Correction

If Machine Thread or lint in 1 —With take-up lever in highest position, tilt
Binds raceway head back on hinges and remove bobbin case.
LINT CLEANER
BOBON NOTCH
SEiØEp\:P
LATCH
RACE COVER OK CLAMPS
2—Turn clamps outward and remove race cover.
3—Remove hook.
4—Clean thread and lint from all parts, includ
ing race.
5—Run a drop of oil along rim of hook.
6—Replace shuttle, then race cover.
Snap clamps into place.
7—Grasp threaded bobbin case by latch and
replace, fitting tongue into notch of race
cover.
Yr o u b e Probable Cause
Correction
Skpping
Bent needle Discard and replace.
sthches
Needle placed
incorrectly in clamp See instruction, page
10.
Too fine a needle for
J.r d berng used See needle and thread
chart, page 5.
- rcr:u!ar ipper thread tension
stitches too loose Tighten upper tension.
m
Improper threading See threading instructio
n, page 8 and 9.
3obbin not wound
evenJy Rewind bobbin.
.co
Uneven ulIing or holding
sUiches material Avoid pulling or holdin
g material, just guide it.
Not enough tension
on upper thread Increase tension.
Poor quality thread Try different thread.

es
Needle too fine for
thread being used See needle and thread
chart, page 5.
uid
-g
all
41
Trouble Probable Cause Correction

Upper Improperly threaded Refer to threading instructions, see page 8
thread and rethread machine.
breaking Loosen tension on upper thread by turning
Too much tension
thread tension knob to lower number.
Starting with take up Always start sewing with take up lever in
in incorrect position highest position.
Improper setting of
Refer to needle setting instructions, see page 10.
needle
Bent or eye of needle
Try a new needle.
too sharp
Discard all blunt or bent needles and replace
Bent or blunt needle
with new.
.—.—.—————
Material Tensions too tight See tensions adjustment, page 14.

puckering
Dull needle Change needle.

1.
I I
Stitch length too long Reduce stitch length.
Your sewing machine

comes equIpped witi
the hs st o
sories described earli
er in this book.
7h following pages illu
strate additional time
saving attachments
flave been designed sp
ecifically for your ma
available at modest co chine. They are
st from your dealer.
If your dealer cann
ou with these items ot
, ask him to order them
rurh. Then you wil for you by part
l b assured of rec
eiving the genuine pa
designed for best perfo rt
rmance with your ma
chine.
43
SOME OF THE ATTACHMENTS AVAILABLE FOR YOUR
FigS 71 MACHINE
PART t14O3
PART 499O PART 1873
Ruffler Darning Spring Cording & Zipper Foot
PART 82528
PART 7459
Attachmtrni Foot PART 76554
Binder
Edgestitche r
H em me rS
‘ART 76553 PART 76552

31 31
PART 76551 PART *476550
Needle position control must be in the left
position when using these attachments.
45
Be sure to draw the lace and

materiai under the needle and back
edgestitcher so that the feed will of the
carry it backward as you stitch.
Hold the fabric in the left hand and
the lace in the right, being sure
fabric overlaps the lace slightly. the
Rick Rack can be sewn to the edge
of the material in the same manner.
To trim with wide piping, place the
fabric in slot 4, and the fold of the
iping to the left in slot 3, for a
narrow piping place fabric in slot 2
the folded edge of the piping to and
the right in slot 3.
Slot 5 may be used as a guide in
stitching a French seam.
See Figs. 67 70 for suggestions
on how to use the edgestitcher.
There are hundreds of other uses.
Fig. 67
FIg. 68 Fig. 69
Fig. 70
_______
4i
folds bias binding and applies
in one operation. Slots on scro it to the edge of material
ll of the binder are for corresponding
-if coc olded bias bin widths
ding. The open mouth of bin
for unfolded bias strips cut 15/ der scroH I US€C
16 inch wide.
BINDING (Fig. 73)
Cut a point on folded binding, inse
rt in
slot. Daw through slot and under binder appropriate
with strong
pin. TesL sti.chiig to be sure it is
on te edge.
Adjust by sliding binder to right
or left.
TWO DNG (Fig.
73)
;c• bid:,gs can be sewn on fabric
edge also in one
operation. When two are used, always
skip one size
;.‘ea ikis, serting each in
correct size slot.
HAND—CUT BIAS BINDIN
m
G (Fig. 74)
Cut 15/16 inch bias binding fold in half
for a couple
cf inches. Cut binding (diagonally
toward end,
almost to fold). Slip fold into
center of binder. FIg. 73
nU! cut opens and binding
enc ircl es
.co
opens nd of scroll. Test stitchin
g to be sure
it is on the edge. ajust if necessa
ry.
See Fig. 71 ar 72 for suggesiori
s on how to
use the binder. There are hundreds
of other uses.
es
Fig. 72
Fig. 74
uid
-g
all
47
THE SET OF HEMMERS
Before attaching any of the hemmers, be sure

bobbin thread is pulled up. Then, with hemmer in
place, hold top thread loosely and turn hand wheel
one full turn toward you, making a ioop under
hemmer. Grasp bobbin thread with both hands
and slip horizontally under hemmer toward back
Bobbin thread will catch loop and carry upper
ead to bacfr of hemmer -
Fold material to suit for two inches along edge,

hod at each end of fold. Slip fold into guide and Fig. 75
up over spoon (Fig. 75). Fold hem in material back of hemmer.
Draw forward to end of hem and fasten with point of needle.
Pull on threads gently as you start stitching.
HEMMER SET
You an make a hem 1/4”, 3/8, 5/8, oi 7/8 in width, depending upon
which hemmer you use. For a few of the many uses see Figs. 84—89.
Fig. 76
Fiçj. 77
Fig. 79
Fig. 80
Fig. 78
Fig. 81
49
RUFFLER
FIg. 82 Fig. 83 FIg. 84

The ruffler will produce yards of delic
ate ruffling or precision pleating.
Ruffling can also be done and sewn
to another piece of fabric at the same
This highly versatile attachment desp time.
ite its wide range of use,ls simple
Use the ruffler for making aprons, to use.
curtains, pleating a skirt, adding fulln
the bodice of a dress, etc. ess to
Fig 83-A
L Fig 84-A
ATTACHMENT FOOT
In order to attach the
binder,
hemmers, it is necessary and the
to remove the press
and replace it with the er foot
attac
Mount binder, edgestitcher hment foot (Fig. 64).
or hemmers, sliding
attachment to the left as far the
as possible and tight
screw. en
The mounting slot enab
les you to sew as
or as far away from the close to
edge as desired. Just
the attachment to the
Fig. 64 correct position before move
ening the mounting tight
screw.
EDGESTTCHER
The edgestitcher is used in
making dainty lace insertions,
cjngs and pipings.
1 sks fl 2SiDher
serve as guides in sewing
together various pieces of
material. If you want to sew
lace, lace and embroidery,
or lace and tucke strips
together, place the piece of
material that will be on top
in slot 1 (Fig. 66)and
For instance, if you are lower fabric in slot 4.
sewing lace edging to
place the fabric in slot a finished edge of fabri
1 and the lace in slot c
4 (Fig. 65).
m
.co
es
51
uid
THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT

This attachment is used to make and insert
covered cording and to sew in zippers.
Loosen thumb screw to slide foot to either
-g
right or left of needle.

CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric over
cord. Loosen thumb screw and set foot so
needle is centered in needle hole. Machine
bastes cord in place(Fig. 91).
all
To sew covered cord to material, reset

adjutabie fo ct so needie stitches closer to
r
cord, and on edge of base fabric.
Fig. 90 Fig. 91
SEWING IN ZIPPER
Loosen thumb screw and slide foot so needle enters
center of needle hole. Guide metal of zipper along
1 edge of foot (Fig. 92). Stitching should be close to
I zipper to allow easy opening and closing. Adjust to

sew from either right or left side, whichever is more
Fig. 92
Fig. 85
Fig. 86
Fig. 89
Fig. 87
Fig. 88
ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT
Fig. 93 Fig. 94 Fig. 95

Fig. 85
Fig. 86
Fig. 89
Fig. 87
Fig. 88
51
THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT

This attachment is used to make and insert
covered cording and to sew in zippers.
Loosen thumb screw to slide foot to either
right or left of needle.
CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric over
cord. Loosen thumb screw and set foot so
needle is centered in needle hole. Machine
bastes cord in place(Fig. 91).
To sew covered cord to material, reset
adjustabi€. f,c. so needle stitches closer to
cord, and on edge of base fabric.
Fig. 90 Fig. 91
SEWING IN ZIPPER
- Loosen thumb screw and slide foot so needle enters
center of needle hole. Guide metal of zipper along
[ edge of foot (Fig. 92). Stitching should be close to

zipper to allow easy opening and closing. Adjust to
sew from either r ight or left side, whichever is more
nient.
Fig. 97
Fig. 96
WNQ NUT
m
TO ASSEMBLE LEGS
ON
sç
See Fiq. 98 CABINETS
.co
1. Place cabinet body upside
down on
smoctj iavei surface
(use packing
material as cushion
to prevent
marking top.
2. Shp leg into position between
corner
blocks and down as far as
es
it will go
with stud fitting
into slot or hole in ALTERNATE
metal bracket. TYPE OF
CORNER
3. Add wing nut and tighten Fig. 98
securely.
uid
-g
all
55
INSTALLING SEWING HEAD IN CABINET
i. Back off both head hinge set screws

until head hinge hole is clear.
2. Tilt head hinge tongues up and back

as far as they will go.
3. Carefully slip head onto head hinges

-
making sure tongues are inserted
-
as far as they can go into head

i-nge iois.
4. Allow the head to rest in its tilted-

back position.
5. Tighten both set screws securely
with screw driver.
6. Plug eIectrica leads into sockets
located inside cabinet. Cord identi
ed with “motor” tag must be plugged
irto scit marked “motor’
Untagged cord goes to “light”
socket.
See Fig. 99
53
NSTALLNG SEWNG HEAD N PORTASLE CASE
Please read these important instructions which were written to aid you in
placing your new sewing machines in its portable case.
First, remove the foot control which is fastened inside the base to avoid
damage in shipping. After unpacking the sewing machine unit, being
certain to take out the Instruction book, guarantee and accessory box,
lay the unit face down on a table. You will see two clamping screws A
entering head hinge holes B on the underside of the back.
On thebase you will find two head hinges C which will fit Into holes B.
Lower the base onto the sewing machine fitting hinges C into holes B.
Tighten screws A securely with a screw driver. -
To make the electrical connection draw the two wires through the slot in the
partition of the base. Plug the cord labeled “Motor” into the receptacle marked
“Motor” on the block attached to the outer section of the base.
Then insert the other cord into the “Light” receptacle.
Place the foot control on the floor, insert plug into a wall outlet (110-115
volts) and you are ready to sew. But first read the instruction book to
become familiar with the threading of the machine, tension adjustments and
all the other features designed to make sewing a pleasure.
See Fig. 96 and 97 (R54)

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All manuals and user guides at all-guides.

2-3-4 Blind Stitch Hem [Page]

Wind.ng the Bobbin 5 Manual Opemtion - 30

Feed Cleaning and Oiling

18-19 Binder 44.45

FEATURES AND PARTS

1Bobbijj Winder Tension

Fabric Needle Machine

Medium heavy drapery

WINDING THE BOBBIN

ETTG ThE 1EEDLE

.h* noede, rnakQ

to h’ jure the needk s In the d wheel

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

aise need! her to

SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH

The length of the stitch is regulated by the dial shown

STITCH LENGTH CHART (Approximate)

Number of stitches per inch No Feeding 30 25 15 8 6

;.. :w ca?d O ie tie L

ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING

rection for darning, and endi :: :

REMOVING THE WORK

Fig. 21-A Fig. 21-B

All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

(.) te (16, Fiç. 1) to the front as far as pos&S!e.

When using the straight stitch

Set Your Machine as Follows

Hundreds of other uses.

‘“ Set zigzag width control at the second line then

:iidth at the first line. Gradually move the

“0” Set zigzag width at 5, stitch length at 2. Sew

J;g .iob at Oown position and lock zigzag widt

1 Set decorative stitch control (B, Fig. 24 at

p fingers out of the pat

which the button passes, is measured by

d ortv. stitch dial (A, Fig. 34) to sew

ch density on th right hand ade

set the zigzag stitch width control to 0 (remem

MULTIPLE ZIGZAG STITC

A. Use zigzag needle plate and pre

zag foot (Fig. 42).

Li)W iR: With needle at its highest position

LACE TRIMMED HEM

fabric, insert both in scroll as for plain

folds at an angle so they will lead

Use tnaS gwce fo making parallel rows of straight or

CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE

removal of the lint will safeguard the perfo

bobbin case (A), Fig. 59

the siuttle ad shufl

CARE AND MAINTE

To oil mechanism under bed of machine, tip

HOW TO REPLACE THE LIGHT BULB

1-) &lcd arid filled).

Trouble Probable Cause Correction

Poor quality thread Try different thread.

Trouble Probable Cause Correction

Material Tensions too tight See tensions adjustment, page 14.

Dull needle Change needle.

Your sewing machine

‘ART 76553 PART 76552

Be sure to draw the lace and