TYPES OF TEST

�The Non technical Test

� FEELING TEST
� BURNING TESTS

�The Technical Test

� MICROSCOPIC TEST
� CHEMICAL TEST
Tests for identification

�Handle/Feel Test
�Visual Examination
�Burning test
�Twist on Drying
�Floatation Test
 �Microscopic analysis
�Chemical Analysis

Requirements for tests:

Preparation of test specimen

Apparatus for microscopic examination
Reagents used for chemical tests
Other tools and equipment
THE NON-TECHNICAL TESTS
�Feeling test
�Burning test
FEELING TEST
�The feeling test requires percep�on if it is to be
of any value.
�Skilled percep�on is acquired only a�er
handling many different fabrics over a period
of �me.
�Limita�ons of this test become apparent when
examining and comparing fabrics of different
fiber content.

BURNING TEST
To recognize the composi�on of fabrics by the burning
test ,the sample of fibre, yarn of fabric should be
moved slowly towards a small flame and the reac�on
to heat carefully observed .One end of the sample
should be put directly into flame to determine its
burning rate and characteris�cs. The burning odour
should be noted and the characteris�cs of the ash such
as amount ,form, hardness and colour should be
examined.
IDENTIFICATION OF FIBRES THROUGH BURNING
TEST

Coton
When ignited it burns with a steady flame and smells
like burning leaves. The ash le� is easily crumbled.
Small samples of burning coton can be blown out as
you would a candle.
Linen
Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabric closest to the
ash is very britle. Linen is easily ex�nguished by
blowing on it as you would a candle.

Silk
It is a protein fibre and usually burns readily, not
necessarily with a steady flame, and smells like burning
hair. The ash is easily crumbled. Silk samples are not as
easily ex�nguished as coton or linen.
Wool
It is also a protein fibre but is harder to ignite than silk
as the individual "hair" fibres are shorter than silk and
the weave of the fabrics is generally looser than with
silk. The flame is steady but more difficult to keep
burning. The smell of burning wool is like burning hair.

Man Made Fibres

Acetate
Acetate burns readily with a flickering flame that
cannot be easily ex�nguished. The burning cellulose
drips and leaves a hard ash. The smell is similar to
burning wood chips.
Acrylic
Acrylics burn readily due to the fibre content and the
lo�y, air filled pockets. A match dropped on an acrylic
blanket can ignite the fabric which will burn rapidly
unless ex�nguished. The ash is hard. The smell is acrid
or harsh.

Nylon
Nylon melts and then burns rapidly if the flame
remains on the melted fibre. If you can keep the flame
on the mel�ng nylon, it smells like burning plas�c.
Polyester
Polyester melts and burns at the same �me, the
mel�ng, burning ash can bond quickly to any surface it
drips on including skin. The smoke from polyester is
black with a swee�sh smell. The ex�nguished ash is
hard.
Rayon
It is a regenerated cellulose fibre which is almost
pure cellulose. Rayon burns rapidly and leaves
only a slight ash. The burning smell is close to
burning leaves.
LIMITATION OF BURNING TEST
�It is apparent that many fibers have similar
burning reac�ons that might cause doubt and
occasional confusion.
TECHNICAL TESTS

There are certain technical tests performed for

iden�fying various fibers. These tests require high
technology laboratory equipment and are much more
reliable than the non technical fibre tests.
Technicals tests require high skilled personnel and
technical know how of handling chemicals and their
accurate analysis. These tests are very valuable for
those fabrics that are a blend of different yarns and
also have certain special proper�es including flame
retardance etc.
TYPES OF TECHNICAL TEST
�Microscopic test
�Chemical test
MICROSCOPIC TEST

� Microscopic test is a technical test that involves iden�fying

the fabric with the help of a microscope with a magnifica�on
of minimum 100 power.
� The test can easily dis�nguish between fibers.
� The test iden�fies the natural fibers more easily as compared
to man made ones.
� Synthe�c fibers are very similar in appearance and the
increase in the number of varie�es, makes it a litle tough to
dis�nguish the fibers even under a microscope.
MICROSCOPIC TEST FOR NATURAL
FIBERS
COTTON:
� It is a single elongated cell. Under the
microscope, it resembles a collapsed, spirally
twisted tube with a rough surface.
� The thin cell wall of the fiber has from 200 to
400 convolu�ons per inch.

LINEN:
� Under the microscope, the hair like flax fiber
shows several sided cylindrical filaments with
fine pointed ends.
� The fiber somewhat resembles a straight,
smooth bamboo s�ck with nodes
 WOOL:

� Under the microscope , wool’s cross sec�on

shows three layersepidermis, cortex
and the medulla. SILK:
� It appears somewhat ellip�cal and
triangular in cross sec�on when we
see under the microscope.
� It is composed of fibroin, consis�ng
of two filaments, called brin which is
held together by sericin.
MICROSCOPIC TEST FOR MANMADE
FIBERS
RAYONS:
� Rayon fibers have a glasslike luster
under the microscope and appear to
have a uniform diameter when
viewed longitudinally.

ACETATE:
� The cross sec�onal view has a
bulbous or mul�lobal appearance with indenta�ons.
� These indenta�ons appear as occasional markings or stria�ons in the
longitudinal view.
NYLON:
� The basic microscopic appearance is generally fine , round, smooth, and
translucent.
� It is also produced in mul�lobal crosssec�onal types.

POLYESTERS:
� Generally, polyester fibers are smooth and straight and the crosssec�on is round.
� This general characteris�cs may be altered to achieve certain characteris�cs, such
as texture or light reflec�on.

� ACRYLICS: The methods of manufacturing of the acrylic

fibres differ, the appearances vary accordingly.
� ACRILAN ACRYLIC: It has a bean-shaped cross sec�on, its
longitudinal appearance is straight and smooth.
� ORLON ACRYLIC: It has a flat, nut-shaped cross sec�on.
� CRESLAN ACRYLIC: It has an almost round cross sec�on.
� MOD ACRYLICS: it is of two types verel modacrylic and SEF
modacrylic

� SPANDEX: Spandex fibers are unique in appearance, they

appear to be groups of fibers fused together.
� GLASS: The fiber is smooth, round, translucent, highly
lustrous, and quite flexible.

� Asbestos fibre
CHEMICAL TESTS

� Chemical tests are another technical means of iden�fying

fibers. But chemical tests are not intended for the general
consumers.
� Different types of chemical tests are undertaken to establish
the iden�ty of the fibers used.
� These tests give accurate and precise analysis.
� The tests are conducted in research laboratories.
TYPES OF CHEMICAL TEST
Stain Test:
Also known as the Double Barrel Fibre Iden�fica�on (DBFI), the
test is based on the theory that each fibre has its own dis�nct
two- colour reac�on when treated with stain.
A fibre will turn to a par�cular colour in the presence of dilute
ace�c acid and to some other specific colour when stained in the
presence of a mild alkali.

Solvent Test:
The test involves trea�ng the fibres in certain solvents for
iden�fying them. The technical test is becoming difficult to
conduct as most of the manufactured fibres and their blends are
chemically similar. There is no individual chemical or solvent test
for separa�ng or iden�fying the fibres in combina�ons.

�Dis�nguishing animal from vegetable fibres

with an acid
As strong alkali destroy animal substances, a 5% of soda lye
solu�on in water can be used to eliminate wool and silk fibers
 from a sample that contains a mixture of fiber. The vegetable
fibres will not be affected by this solu�on.

�Dis�nguishing vegetable from animal fibres

with an acid
As dilute acid destroy vegetable fibers, a 2% sulphuric acid
solu�on can be used. A drop of solu�on is placed on the
sample, which is then pressed with a hot iron. The spoted
area will become charred if the sample is coton linen or
rayon.
DISTINGUISHING SILK FROM WOOL:
The use of concentrated cold hydrochloric acid will dissolve the
silk and the wool fiber swells.

DISTINGUISHING NYLON FROM OTHER FIBRES:

If the fabric is thought to contain nylon, the fabric may be
immersed in a boiling solu�on of sodium hydroxide. The nylon is
insoluble in such a solu�on.
DISTINGUISHING POLYESTERS FROM OTHER
FIBRES:
Polyester is soluble in hot meta cresol; however , unlike acetate it
is not soluble in acetone, and unlike nylon it is not soluble in
concentrated formic acid.

DISTINGUISHING ACRYLICS FROM OTHER FIBRES:

Acrylic fibers will dissolve in 70 percent solu�on of ammonium
thio cyanate at 130 degree Celsius but the other fibers will not.
DISTINGUISHING LINEN FROM COTTON
Coton and linen are immersed in a 1% solu�on of fuchsine in
alcohol to give red rose colour. Later , they are washed and
immersed into ammonia, linen retains the red colora�on but
coton does not.

DISTINGUISHING GLASS FIBERS FROM OTHER FIBRES:

There are two specific solvents for quick iden�fica�on of glass
fibers, they are hydrofluoric acid and hot phosphoric acid.
This technical fibre iden�fica�on test has the following advantages and
limita�ons

Advantages

• More reliable than the non technical tests.

• Used for both man made fibres and natural fibres.
• Easily conducted.

Limita�ons

• Certain manufacturing and finishing processes like mercerizing,

affects the appearance of the fibres under the microscope.
• Very dark coloured fabrics cannot be iden�fied under microscope.
• Dye stuffs must be removed from fabrics.
THANK YOU
Usha Janardhan
Associate professor