You are on page 1of 33

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Canada
Yukon
Territory
p771 Nunavut
Northwest p815
Territories
p795

British Newfoundland
Columbia & Labrador
p635 p463
Alberta
p562 Manitoba
p516 Québec Prince Edward
p231 Island
Saskatchewan
p538
Ontario New p435
p70 Brunswick Nova
p395 Scotia
p334

Brendan Sainsbury, Oliver Berry, John Lee, Regis St Louis,


Ray Bartlett, Gregor Clark, Shawn Duthie, Steve Fallon, Carolyn B
Heller, Anna Kaminski, Adam Karlin, Craig McLachlan, Korina Miller,
Liza Prado, Phillip Tang
PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Canada. . . . . . 6 ONTARIO. . . . . . . . . . . 70 QUÉBEC. . . . . . . . . . . 231
Canada Map . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Toronto. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Montréal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
Niagara Peninsula . . . . . 123 The Laurentians. . . . . . . 262
Canada’s Top 25. . . . . . . . 10
Niagara Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Québec City. . . . . . . . . . . 276
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 24 Niagara Peninsula Charlevoix . . . . . . . . . . . 294
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Wine Country . . . . . . . . . . . 131
Baie St Paul. . . . . . . . . . . . 294
Niagara-on-the-Lake . . . . . 133
If You Like.... . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Île Aux Coudres . . . . . . . . 296
Southwestern
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 32 Ontario. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 La Malbaie. . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Saguenay. . . . . . . . . . . . 300
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Guelph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 South Shore . . . . . . . . . 306
Scenic Drives & Kitchener-Waterloo . . . . . . 143 Gaspé Peninsula. . . . . . . 311
Train Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Stratford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Parc National
Outdoor Activities . . . . . . 54 de la Gaspésie . . . . . . . . . . 315
Lake Huron Shoreline . . . . 150
Forillon National Park . . . . 316
Travel with Children. . . . . 60 London. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Windsor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Gaspé. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 65 Matapédia Valley . . . . . . . 322
Muskoka Lakes. . . . . . . . 161
Georgian Bay. . . . . . . . . . 165 North Shore. . . . . . . . . . . 322
Parry Sound . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Mingan Archipelago
ALLEKO/GETTY IMAGES ©

National Park . . . . . . . . . . 325


Midland &
Penetanguishene. . . . . . . . 166 Îles de la Madeleine. . . . 327
Collingwood & Far North. . . . . . . . . . . . 330
Blue Mountain . . . . . . . . . . 168 Abitibi-Témiscamingue . . 330
Bruce Peninsula. . . . . . . . . 169 James Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
Northern Ontario . . . . . . 174 Nunavik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
Killarney Provincial
Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Sudbury. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
NOVA SCOTIA. . . . . . 334
Lake Superior Halifax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
POUTINE P288 Shoreline. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Dartmouth. . . . . . . . . . . . . 353
Thunder Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Peggy’s Cove. . . . . . . . . . . 354
North Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 South Shore . . . . . . . . . . 355
Eastern Ontario . . . . . . . 194 Acadian Shores. . . . . . . 364
JHVEPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Algonquin Yarmouth. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365


Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . . 194
French Shore. . . . . . . . . . . 366
Haliburton Highlands . . . . 198
Annapolis Valley. . . . . . 368
Peterborough &
the Kawarthas . . . . . . . . . . 199 Digby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
Land O’ Lakes. . . . . . . . . . 200 Long Island &
Brier Island . . . . . . . . . . . . 369
Prince Edward County. . . . 201
Kingston. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Annapolis Royal . . . . . . . . 370
Thousand Islands. . . . . . . 209 Wolfville & Grand Pré . . . . 372
Ottawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Central Nova Scotia. . . . 375
HARBOURFRONT CENTRE Parrsboro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 375
P76
Contents

Advocate Harbour . . . . . . . 377 Bouctouche. . . . . . . . . . . . 429 Central


Sunrise Trail . . . . . . . . . . 378 Kouchibouguac Newfoundland. . . . . . . . 492
Tatamagouche . . . . . . . . . 378 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 430 Gander. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492
Pictou. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 Northeastern New Twillingate Island &
Brunswick . . . . . . . . . . . 432 New World Island. . . . . . . 492
Antigonish. . . . . . . . . . . . . 380
Fogo Island &
Cape Breton Island . . . . 381 Change Islands. . . . . . . . . 494
PRINCE EDWARD
Ceilidh Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . 382 Northern Peninsula . . . . 497
ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . 435
Cabot Trail. . . . . . . . . . . . . 383 Gros Morne
Charlottetown. . . . . . . . 439 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 498
Baddeck. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388
Eastern Prince L’Anse aux Meadows
Sydney &
Edward Island. . . . . . . . 445 & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 501
North Sydney . . . . . . . . . . 390
Wood Islands. . . . . . . . . . . 445
Eastern Shore. . . . . . . . . 392 St Anthony . . . . . . . . . . . . 504
Souris & Around. . . . . . . . 447 Western
Central Prince Newfoundland. . . . . . . . 505
NEW Edward Island. . . . . . . . 449
BRUNSWICK. . . . . . . 395 Corner Brook . . . . . . . . . . 505
Victoria. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449 Blomidon Mountains. . . . 506
Fredericton . . . . . . . . . . . 397 Prince Edward Island Port au Port
Upper St John National Park . . . . . . . . . . 450 Peninsula. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507
River Valley . . . . . . . . . . 402 Brackley Beach. . . . . . . . . . 451 Port aux Basques. . . . . . . 508
Mt Carleton Provincial Rustico &
Park & the Cape Ray. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 509
North Rustico. . . . . . . . . . . 451
Tobique Valley. . . . . . . . . . 403 Killick Coast . . . . . . . . . 509
New Glasgow. . . . . . . . . . . 454
Western Labrador . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510
Fundy Shore . . . . . . . . . 405 New London . . . . . . . . . . . 455
Labrador Straits. . . . . . . . . 510
St Stephen . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 Kensington . . . . . . . . . . . . 458
Central Labrador . . . . . . . . 513
St Andrews Cavendish . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458
Labrador West . . . . . . . . . . 515
By-The-Sea . . . . . . . . . . . . 406 Western Prince
Fundy Isles. . . . . . . . . . . 409 Edward Island. . . . . . . . 459
Deer Island . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 Summerside . . . . . . . . . . . 459 MANITOBA . . . . . . . . 516
Campobello Island. . . . . . . 410 Tyne Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 Winnipeg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 517
Grand Manan Island . . . . . 414 Lake Winnipeg. . . . . . . . 530
Saint John. . . . . . . . . . . . 416 NEWFOUNDLAND Gimli. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
Eastern & LABRADOR . . . . . . 463 Hecla & Grindstone
Fundy Shore . . . . . . . . . 420 St John’s . . . . . . . . . . . . 466 Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . . 531
St Martins . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420 Avalon Peninsula . . . . . . 479 Southeastern
Manitoba . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
Fundy National Park . . . . 420 Baccalieu Trail. . . . . . . . . . 483
Whiteshell
Alma. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 Cape Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . 484 Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . . 531
Southeastern New Eastern Western Manitoba . . . . . 531
Brunswick . . . . . . . . . . . 423 Newfoundland. . . . . . . . 485
Brandon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
Moncton. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423 Bonavista. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487
Northern Manitoba . . . . 532
Sackville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427 Burin Peninsula . . . . . . . . 489
The Pas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 533
Northumberland St-Pierre &
Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428 Miquelon . . . . . . . . . . . . 490 Churchill. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534
Shediac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428
ON THE ROAD

SASKATCHEWAN. . . 538
Regina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540

STAN JONES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Southern
Saskatchewan. . . . . . . . 545
Moose Jaw. . . . . . . . . . . . . 545
Ogema . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548
Gravelbourg. . . . . . . . . . . . 549
Swift Current . . . . . . . . . . 549
Val Marie & Grasslands
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 550
Qu’Appelle Valley . . . . . . . 552
Saskatoon . . . . . . . . . . . . 553 KELOWNA P736

Northern
Saskatchewan. . . . . . . . . 559
The Battlefords. . . . . . . . . 559
BRITISH Campbell River. . . . . . . . . . 713
COLUMBIA. . . . . . . . . 635 Strathcona
Prince Albert. . . . . . . . . . . 559 Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . . 715
Prince Albert Vancouver . . . . . . . . . . . 638
Southern Gulf
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 560 Lower Mainland . . . . . . 663 Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 720
Richmond & Salt Spring Island. . . . . . . 720
Steveston. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 663
ALBERTA. . . . . . . . . . 562 North & South
New Westminster. . . . . . . 665 Pender Islands . . . . . . . . . . 722
Edmonton . . . . . . . . . . . . 565
Bowen Island. . . . . . . . . 666 Galiano Island. . . . . . . . . . . 723
Calgary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575
Sea To Sky Highway. . . 666 Saturna Island . . . . . . . . . . 724
Banff & Jasper
National Parks . . . . . . . . 589 Squamish & Around. . . . . 666 Mayne Island. . . . . . . . . . . . 724
Kananaskis Country . . . . 589 Whistler. . . . . . . . . . . . . 669 Fraser &
Canmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 593 Sunshine Coast. . . . . . . 675 Thompson Valleys . . . . . 725
Icefields Parkway. . . . . . . 596 Roberts Creek. . . . . . . . . . 676 EC Manning
Sechelt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 677 Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . . 725
Banff Town. . . . . . . . . . . . . 599
Powell River. . . . . . . . . . . . 678 Fraser River Canyon . . . . 726
Lake Louise. . . . . . . . . . . . 607
Vancouver Island . . . . . 680 Lytton. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 726
Jasper Town & Around . . . 611
Victoria. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 680. Kamloops. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 727
Southern Alberta . . . . . . 618
Southern Vancouver Okanagan Valley. . . . . . . 728
Dinosaur Provincial Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 694
Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 620 Osoyoos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 729
Cowichan Valley. . . . . . . . 697 Penticton. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 733
Head-Smashed-In
Buffalo Jump. . . . . . . . . . . . 621 Nanaimo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 698 Kelowna. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 736
Writing-on-Stone Parksville & Qualicum. . . . 701 Vernon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 740
Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 622 Pacific Rim National The Kootenays
Waterton Lakes Park Reserve. . . . . . . . . . . 704 & The Rockies. . . . . . . . . 742
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 623 Tofino. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 706 Revelstoke. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 742
Northern Alberta . . . . . . 625 Ucluelet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 709 Golden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 746
Peace River & Around. . . 626 Denman & Yoho National Park . . . . . . 748
Mackenzie Highway. . . . . 626 Hornby Islands. . . . . . . . . . 711
Kootenay
Lake District . . . . . . . . . . . 626 Comox Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . 712 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 749
Contents
UNDERSTAND

Radium Hot Springs . . . . 750 Fort Smith. . . . . . . . . . . . . 807 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 828


Fernie. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 751 Wood Buffalo Indigenous Cultures. . . 839
Rossland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 753 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 807
Dehcho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 808 Wildlife. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 843
Nelson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 754
Cariboo Fort Simpson. . . . . . . . . . .808 Cuisines of Canada . . . . 847
Chilcotin Coast. . . . . . . . 757 Nahanni National Wine Regions . . . . . . . . . 850
Bowron Lake. . . . . . . . . . . 758 Park Reserve. . . . . . . . . . . 809
Wells Gray Sahtu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 810
Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 758 Norman Wells. . . . . . . . . . . 810
Chilcotin & Western Arctic . . . . . . . . 811
Highway 20. . . . . . . . . . . . 759 Inuvik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 811 SURVIVAL
Bella Coola Valley. . . . . . . 759 Tuktoyaktuk. . . . . . . . . . . . . 813 GUIDE
Northern British Banks Island. . . . . . . . . . . . 814
Columbia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 760
Prince Rupert . . . . . . . . . . . 761 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 854
Haida Gwaii. . . . . . . . . . . . 762
NUNAVUT . . . . . . . . . 815
Transportation . . . . . . . . 865
Prince George. . . . . . . . . . . 767 Iqaluit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 817
Baffin Region . . . . . . . . . 821 Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 874
Stewart-Cassiar
Highway. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 769 Auyuittuq Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 882
Alaska Highway . . . . . . . . 769 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 822
Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 893
Cape Dorset . . . . . . . . . . . 822
YUKON Resolute. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 824
TERRITORY. . . . . . . . 771 Quttinirpaaq
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 824
Whitehorse . . . . . . . . . . . 773 Kivalliq Region . . . . . . . 824
Alaska Highway . . . . . . . 779 Rankin Inlet. . . . . . . . . . . . 824
Haines Highway . . . . . . . 786 Naujaat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 825
Klondike Highway. . . . . . 786 Kitikmeot Region. . . . . . 826
Carcross. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 786 Cambridge Bay. . . . . . . . . 826
Carmacks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 787
Stewart Crossing . . . . . . . 788
Dawson City . . . . . . . . . . 788
Dempster Highway. . . . . 793
Arctic Parks. . . . . . . . . . . 794 SPECIAL FEATURES
Scenic Drives & Indigenous
NORTHWEST Train Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Cultures. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 839
TERRITORIES. . . . . . 795 Outdoor Activities. . . . . . 54 Wildlife. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 843
Yellowknife . . . . . . . . . . . 798 Travel with Children. . . . . 60 Cuisines of Canada . . . . 847
North Slave. . . . . . . . . . 805
Wine Regions . . . . . . . . . 850
Highway 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 805 Montréal’s Markets . . . . 251
South Slave. . . . . . . . . . 806 National Parks . . . . . . . . 627
Mackenzie Highway. . . . . 806
Hay River. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 806
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
37

Itineraries
Québec City •
#

Québec
Laurentians É

#
É

É

#
É
Ontario OTTAWA #
_ Montréal
É Upper
# Canada

Village
É
Gananoque
Kingston • •
#
#
É # Thousand

Toronto •
# Islands USA

# Prince
Lake Ontario Edward
É County
É

Niagara
• Falls
#


#

2 KS The Central Corridor


WEE

This 1450km route from Toronto to Québec City encompasses Canada’s largest cities,
mightiest waterfalls and prettiest islands.
Spend two days in multicultural Toronto, wallowing in the wealth of architecture,
art museums, restaurants and nightclubs. Spend day three at Niagara Falls, then begin
your eastward haul. The Loyalist Parkway (Hwy 33) rambles shoreside in winery-laden
Prince Edward County and pulls into colonial Kingston. From there, the misty,
mansion-covered Thousand Islands dot the St Lawrence River; Gananoque makes a
good break for a day in their midst. Make a half-day stop at Upper Canada Village, a
recreated 1860s town, before heading to Ottawa for a couple of days to get your culture
fix at the national museums.
Save room for your next stop, Montréal, where the French exuberance seduces via
Euro-cool clubs and foodie-beloved cafes. Had your fill? Swing over to the Laurentians
to spend a day or two and hike, cycle or ski yourself back into shape. Finish in Québec
City – its charismatic walled Old Town, dramatically poised on a bluff over the St Law-
rence, will leave an impression long after you return home.
38
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s

Ù
#
St John's
Vancouver •
#
Yoho
Fraser National
River Park

É
Canyon Prince
÷ Banff
# Edward Cape
# Drumheller

# •
#• Gaspé Island •
É

# #• # Breton

# Peninsula •
#
Victoria Calgary É •
# Island

# Winnipeg Thunder
É
Québec City •
#

#
Moose •
# Bay Fredericton

É
Jaw
É

# North Bay •#
É •
# _ Montréal
#
Ù
#
Ù
# OTTAWA
Ù
#
USA
Ù
#
Ù
# AT L AN TI C
Ù
#
Ù
# OCEAN
Ù
#

Ù
#
Ù


#
Ù
#
Ù
#
Ù

#
#
Ù
# 1 TH Trans-Canada Highway Ù
#
Ù
MON
#

Ù
#
The world’s longest highway – a 7800km belt of asphalt cinched #around Canada’s girth –
Ù
is technically a patchwork of provincial roads. Scenic stretches alternate with mundane
ones; many of the best sights require a detour off the highway.Ù
#
The road begins in St John’s, Newfoundland, Canada’s oldest city and a heck of a
pub-filled good time. It rolls all the way through the province until it hits the sea, at
which point you must ferry over to North Sydney, Nova Scotia, where the road resumes
on beautiful Cape Breton Island. Continue to New Brunswick – or take the longer
route to Prince Edward Island – then follow the St John River via Fredericton to
Québec. The Gaspé Peninsula entices as a pastoral side-trip east. Otherwise, the high-
way follows the mighty St Lawrence River and reaches romantic Québec City.
Carry on the urban theme in Montréal, where the pâtisseries and café will keep you
lingering, before plunging into Ontario at museum-fortified Ottawa. From there, follow
in the fur traders’ footsteps to North Bay, the gateway to the Algoma wilderness that
inspired the Group of Seven painters. Savor the superb stretch of road skirting Lake Su-
perior to Thunder Bay and voilà, there goes week two.
Next the highway enters the prairie flatlands of Manitoba, where Winnipeg rockets
up and provides an enlivening patch of cafes and culture. The road dawdles under Sas-
katchewan’s big skies until reaching bad-ass Moose Jaw, where Al Capone used to hide
his bootlegged booze. In Alberta, dinosaur junkies can detour to Drumheller. And put
on your cowboy boots before arriving in Calgary, a former cow town that’s become one
of Canada’s fastest-growing cities. So passes week three…
You’re in the Rockies now. They offer a dramatic change of scenery as the highway
meanders through Banff before entering British Columbia at Yoho National Park and
reaching its highest point (1627m) at Kicking Horse Pass. The mountains eventually give
way to river country. The most memorable section leads through the Fraser River Can-
yon, from where it’s only a quick jaunt to mod, multicultural Vancouver and the ferry
to Victoria. Snap a picture at the Mile 0 sign. You made it!
39

Mary's
Harbour • Battle
#•#
Harbour
Labrador Red Bay •
#
L'Anse Amour •
# # L'Anse aux Meadows

National Historic Site
f
#•
# St Barbe

PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s
Québec

É
÷ Gros
# Morne
National Park
Gulf of
St Lawrence
newfoundland

É
Port aux
Basques •#

f
#
new

É
Brunswick Cabot Trail •
#
# North Sydney

PeI •
#
Baddeck AT LAN TI C
É OCEAN

Usa
# Halifax

nova
scotia

2 KS Cabot & Viking Trails


WEE

Wild, windswept and whale-riddled, this 1700km route through Nova Scotia, Newfound-
land, Labrador and Québec unfurls sea-and-cliff vistas, Viking vestiges and much more.
Start in Halifax and spend a few days enjoying the beer, farmers markets and cosmo-
politan life. Then hit the road to Celtic-tinged Cape Breton Island for two days. It’s about
a five-hour drive, and there’s no ferry involved, as a causeway connects the mainland to
the island. You won’t have time to traverse Cape Breton in depth, but you can certainly
get a feel for its beauty in pastoral Baddeck and along the art-studio-dotted Cabot
Trail. Industrial North Sydney is nearby for the ferry to Newfoundland.
It’s a six-hour sail over the Cabot Strait to Port aux Basques. The ferry goes daily, but
be sure to book in advance. Spend a day in the sleepy town, then steer for Gros Morne
National Park, about four hours north on the Trans-Canada Hwy. This World Heritage
site is rich with mountain hikes, sea-kayak tours, fjord-like lakes and weird rock forma-
tions. After soaking it up for three days, continue on the Viking Trail to its awe-inspiring
endpoint: L’Anse aux Meadows. This was North America’s first European settlement,
where Leif Eriksson and his Viking pals homesteaded 1000 years ago. Poke around for
a day before backtracking about two hours to St Barbe, where the ferry for Labrador
departs. Reservations are wise for the daily, two-hour crossing.
And then you’re in the Big Land. (Actually, the ferry lands in Québec, but more on that
province later.) Turn your wheels northeast and head for L’Anse Amour, intriguing for
its tall lighthouse and shipwreck-strewn hiking trail. Further along is Red Bay, Canada’s
newest World Heritage site, which preserves a massive, 16th-century whaling port. To
really get away from it all, drive 90km onward to Mary’s Harbour and spend the night
on the offshore island that holds Battle Harbour, a restored village. After a few days in
Labrador, it’s time to head back. Before getting on the ferry, detour for a few hours down
Rte 138 in Québec. It makes a beautiful drive past waterfalls and overlooks the crashing
surf. Afterward, you’ll need a couple of (long) days to retrace your path to Halifax.
40

Jasper

#

alberta

É
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s

Yoho
Glacier National
British Columbia National ## Park
÷

Park • É

É
É
# # Banff
÷ Golden •
#
÷
#
Mt Revelstoke
Kamloops •
# National Park

É
É

# Kelowna

#
Okanagan Valley
É
Vancouver •
#

Usa

Ù
# •
#•
#
Ù
#
2 KS The Rockies
WEE

Prepare to feast on a smorgasbord of scenic delights on this 2000km trek, which loops
through British Columbia and Alberta.
Start with a couple of days in mountain-meets-the-sea Vancouver, where you’ll be
spoiled by urban hiking, biking and other activities, plus western Canada’s best culi-
nary scene. Make the wine pilgrimage east through rolling hills to the lake-studded
Okanagan Valley, famous for its fruit orchards, crisp whites and bold reds. Kelowna
makes a good sipping base in the area if you fancy tippling for a night or two.
Next it’s time to get high in BC’s Rocky Mountains. A trio of national parks pops up
in quick succession, each providing plenty of ‘ah’-inspiring vistas: Mt Revelstoke has
a cool scenic drive and hikes; Glacier has 430 of its namesake ice fields; and Yoho is
home to looming peaks and crashing waterfalls. Golden is a convenient base to take
these in, with a decent array of tourist facilities, restaurants and stores.
Cross the border into Alberta, and park it in Banff. You won’t be able to stop the
clichés from flying forth. Grand! Majestic! Awe-inspiring! Allot plenty of time – at least
three days – for hiking, paddling, gawking at glaciers and spotting grizzly bears (best
done from a distance). Sapphire-blue Lake Louise is a must, with a pair of alpine-style
teahouses to fuel your hikes with scones, beer and hot chocolate.
From Banff, the Icefields Pkwy (Hwy 93) parallels the Continental Divide for 230km
to Jasper. Try to keep your eyes at least partially on the road as you drive by the humon-
gous Columbia Icefield and its numerous fanning glaciers. Foaming waterfalls, dramatic
mountains and the sudden dart of a bear (Or was that a moose? Or was it a wolverine?!)
are also part of the journey. Jasper itself is bigger and less crowded than Banff, and
offers superb hiking, horseback riding, rock climbing, mountain biking and rafting.
It’s a shame to have to leave, but we must return to Vancouver. The Yellowhead Hwy
(Hwy 5) plows south to Kamloops, a handy spot to spend the night before motoring
back to the City of Glass.
41
BORIS SV/GETTY IMAGES ©

PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s

Top: Upper Canada


MMACKILLOP/GETTY IMAGES ©

Village (p214), Ontario


Bottom: Confederation
Bridge (p438), Prince
Edward Island
42

Île
d'Anticosti
Québec er
v
Ri
n ce
French Canadian Sampler
re
w Heart of the Maritimes
Forestville La Gaspé Peninsula
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s

t

#
f SRimouski
#

#
É
É
Campbellton
Tadoussac #
• •
#
• Caraquet
#
É
É

Prince Edward
Island
Cavendish National Park
new •#
# ÷
Brunswick PeI Charlottetown

É

# •
#
Québec •
#
Shediac #

City Confederation Wood Islands

#
Maine Bridge • Pictou
#

É
É

É
Usa
nova scotia • Halifax
#

1 K
French Canadian 1 K
Heart of the
WEE
Sampler WEE
Maritimes
Get a taste of Gallic Canada on this 700km This 650km loop lassos the core of the
jaunt through New Brunswick and Québec. Maritime provinces (Nova Scotia, New
Start in Caraquet and immerse your- Brunswick and Prince Edward Island).
self in Acadian culture at the historic sites Eat and drink your way through Hali-
and via local foods such as pets de sœur fax, then make a break northwest for New
(‘nun’s farts’ in English – try one to see Brunswick. Festive Shediac is home to the
if you can figure out why). If you visit in world’s biggest lobster sculpture and – no
August, the fiddle-fueled Festival Acadien surprise – the cooked version of the crea-
takes over the town. ture gets served in eateries all over town.
Ramble east through Campbellton and Barrel over the 12.9km Confederation
cross into Québec. Rimouski, on the St Bridge that links New Brunswick to PEI
Lawrence River, is your target. Explore its and begin the pilgrimage to Anne’s Land.
intriguing museums and delicious cafes, Anne, of course, is the fictional red-headed
and day-trip east up the Gaspé Peninsula orphan of Green Gables fame, and Cav-
on Rte 132, where fluttering Acadian flags, endish is the wildly developed town that
tidy farming hamlets and rocky shores pays homage to her.
flash by. Continue the red theme by exploring the
From Rimouski, a ferry crosses the river red sandstone bluffs at Prince Edward
to Forestville, from where you can head Island National Park; there’s bird-
south to welcoming Tadoussac. It’s all watching, beach walking and swimming,
about whale-watching in this boho little too. Stop in PEI’s compact, colonial capital
town; Zodiacs motor out to see the blue Charlottetown, before taking the ferry
whales that patrol the area. from Wood Islands back to Pictou in
Finish your trip in atmospheric Québec Nova Scotia. You can stroll Pictou’s board-
City. Check in at a cozy inn in the Old walk and, if you’re lucky, the town might
Town, wander its labyrinth of lanes and be hosting its First Nations Powwow. It’s
stop often to sip in the corner cafes. about two hours from here back to Halifax.
43
Whistler •
#
Tombstone
alaska
÷ Territorial
#

# Park
(U s a) Dawson
City

É
É
British

PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s
Columbia Beaver

É
Yukon
# Creek

territority

West

É
Vancouver•
# É É
f
#

É
# Vancouver

S
# Nanaimo
• G tra
eo i Tsawwassen Kluane
rg t o
# Ferry
ia f •
National
Terminal Park
# Haines
É


f
# ÷
# Junction

# Usa # Whitehorse

Chemainus Usa

É
É

É
É
É

# Skagway


# British
Haines Columbia
# Victoria

1 K
Bite of British 1 K
Klondike Highway
WEE
Columbia WEE
& Around
You don’t have to drive far to experience Heed the call of the wild, and set your
a range of heart-leaping landscapes in wheels for this epic roadway. Know it’ll
southern BC. Ocean, mountains, forests, be a lot of driving for one week (approxi-
islands – all are present and accounted for mately 30 hours), but the road is the main
in roughly 550km. attraction of the trip.
Begin in Vancouver and take a couple Start in Skagway, Alaska, as the Klon-
of days to check out the indie shops, the dike Hwy does. Soon you’ll leave the cruise
foodie fare and the forested-seawall vistas ships behind and enter the rugged land
of Stanley Park. On day three, drive to Jack London wrote so much about. Follow
the Tsawwassen ferry terminal for the the road to lively Whitehorse, which has
dreamy boat trip to Swartz Bay on Vancou- groovy arts and organic bakeries. From
ver Island. Zip over to Victoria, spending there continue north to offbeat Dawson
an overnight stay exploring the picture- City. Linger a few days and check out the
perfect capital and its historic buildings. gold rush historic sites, take a mine tour
On day four, drive north up the island on and blow a kiss to the dancing girls. Day-
Hwy 1, stopping off at Chemainus, a for- trip to Tombstone Territorial Park for
mer logging settlement that’s reinvented its wide, steep grandeur.
itself as an art town. Continue north for a Next, follow the Top of the World Hwy
late lunch and an overnight in Nanaimo, (Hwy 9) across mountaintops to the Alas-
then, next morning, catch the ferry back to kan border, and connect down through the
the mainland’s Horseshoe Bay terminal in US and onto the Alaska Hwy in the Yukon
West Vancouver. at Beaver Creek. The road between here
From here, the Sea to Sky Hwy (Hwy and well-stocked Haines Junction is sub-
99) runs cliffside through formidable lime, paralleling Kluane National Park and
mountains to Whistler. The resort town the St Elias Mountains. The gawk-worthy
has heaps of adrenaline activities and fun, Haines Hwy rolls into Haines, Alaska,
ski-bum bars to occupy your final few days. where your journey ends.
It’s 120km back to Vancouver.
44

Off the Beaten Track: Canada


Ellesmere
Island
CAPE SCOTT Axel
Heiberg
PROVINCIAL PARK Island

at the rugged northern tip of Sverdrup


PL A N YO U R TRI P O F F T H E B EATEN TRA C K

Islands
Vancouver Island, this remote,
logging-road-accessed park is not Bathurst
easy to get to, but it’s (arguably) Melville Island Devon
Beaufort Island Island
home to BC’s best wilderness Sea
beaches. (p719) UKKUSIKSALIK
Somerset
NATIONAL PARK
# Tuktoyaktuk
• PrinceIsland
ALASKA of Wales
# Inuvik
• nunavut's frontier on the frontier, this
Island
U S A Fra
Victoria
remote national
Islandpark juxtaposes
# Anchorage
• Boothia
Dawson bleak tundra landscapes with an
Peninsula
nkli
# City
W

abundance of unusual wildlife
King

Macke

Great Bear
n Mou

William
Lake spearheaded by polar bears. (p825)
Island
YUKON
Ma

TERRITORY
nzie

ntains
cken

UKKUSIKSALIK
Mountains

Nahanni
zie River

Whitehorse •
# National NORTHWEST NATIONAL PARK •
#
Park TERRITORIES
Reserve Thelon Riv
#
÷ Fort er
# Simpson

Juneau •
# Watson •
#
# Yellowknife
Lake
• Dubawnt
Lake
Great Slave
Spatsizi Plateau Lake NUNAVUT
Provincial # BRITISH
÷ COLUMBIA Wood Buffalo
°W

Wilderness Park National Park


Prince
Rocky Mo

#
÷
Rupert Lake

# Lake Churchill
Haida Claire Athabasca •
#
ca R

Gwaii
ALBERTA lR
il
un

Prince Chu rc h
b as

CAPE SCOTT George •


tai

R
son
ha

#
Jasper At SASKATCHEWAN Nl
e
ns

PROVINCIAL PARK National


#
÷ Park #Thompson

#
÷

# Edmonton
Jasper •
#
Prince MANI TOBA
Vancouver Banff Albert
Island ÷ National
#

44

#
Saskatoon Lake
Nanaimo • #• # Park
# Vancouver Banff • Winnipeg
# Calgary •
#
Victoria •
#

VEREGIN Riding
BLACKFOOT # ÷ •
# Mountain
P A C I F I C Seattle • CROSSING ÷ National Park

44
# Regina #
# •
# •
OCEAN HISTORICAL Swift Winnipeg
WA Current •
#
Portland •# PARK
OR
MT ND MN
ID

BLACKFOOT CROSSING UN ITED STATES


HISTORICAL PARK OF AMERI CA Minneapolis •
#
CA
the siksika (Blackfoot) First nations
WY
NV historical UT
have opened a superb VEREGIN NE
IA
center on their reservation. there’s a
a small prairie village and national
museum, plus guided tours and trails
historic site cataloging the history
through quintessential prairie
and culture of the Doukhobors, a
landscapes. (p624)
religious sect (championed by Leo
tolstoy) who settled here after their
exile from russia in 1897. (p553)

4
45
0 1,000 km
e
# 0 500 miles

GRE ENLAND I C E L A N D
ST JOSEPH ISLAND D E N M A R K
Nar es

this wooded island, tucked away in TORNGAT MOUNTAINS

PL A N YO U R TRI P O F F T H E B EATEN TRA C K


the northwest corner of Lake Huron
S

NATIONAL PARK
tra

flush up against the Us border, holds


it

the fascinating ruins of an erstwhile You'll have to fly or boat in to


British fort. (p174) Labrador's chilly tip, home to polar
bears and some of the highest peaks
east of the rockies. Local Inuit guides
lead the way for otherworldly hiking
Baffin and flightseeing. (p514)
Island Da
vi
Auyuittuq s St
National #
÷ ra
it ATLANTIC
Park
OCEAN
Melville
Peninsula Foxe
Basin
GASPÉ PENINSULA
# Iqaluit

this is the windswept, rocky spot
Southampton Hud
Island s on S where Jacques Cartier landed in 1534,
t rait Labrador surrounded by steep limestone cliffs,
Sea
Coats TORNGAT MOUNTAINS #
÷ pebble beaches, whales, seals and the
Island NATIONAL PARK ever-crashing sea. (p311)
Hudson
Bay
R

Labrador NEWFOUNDLAND
es

& LABRA DOR


R

Smallwood
z
élè

ill

Reservoir
M

rch

Northern
hu

C Peninsula
Belcher
Islands Lac # St John's

Caniapiscau Corner •
#
Reservoir Brook Newfoundland
QUÉBEC Manicouagan
James
R

Lac Île
Bay
isk

Mistassini GASPÉ d’Anticosti # Port aux



Basques
Win


#
PENINSULA
Moosonee •
# NEW PEI
BRUNSWICK •
# Charlottetown
Lake
Nipigon ONTA RIO TAYLOR HEAD
Fredericton • ÷
#
# # PROVINCIAL PARK

Thunder Québec •#
Halifax
Bay City NOVA
ME

#
ST JOSEPH OTTAWA •

# SCOTI A
Lake #Montréal Yarmouth
Superior •
#
ISLAND • #
North _ # VT
Sault •
#
Bay NH
WI Ste Marie Lake Lake NY # Boston

Huron Toronto Ontario MA
MI •
#
Lake
Michigan
# Niagara Falls
• CT R I TAYLOR HEAD
# Lake


# PROVINCIAL PARK
Detroit Erie PA New
Chicago York this beachy park on nova scotia's

#
undeveloped eastern shore juts out
into the atlantic, offering trails of
wildflowers and beach grass and
plenty of perfect sheltered coves for
kayaking. (p393)
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
87 9

Behind the Scenes


SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK
We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books
better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book.
Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-
back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends
us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a
selection of digital PDF chapters.
Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help.
Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such
as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments
reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/
privacy.

OUR READERS WRITER THANKS


Many thanks to the travelers who used the last Brendan Sainsbury
edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Many thanks to all the skilled bus drivers,
advice and interesting anecdotes: helpful tourist information staff, generous hotel
Anne Cayer, Cheryl Ferguson, Dan Hunter, Diane owners, expert burger flippers, unobtrusive
Beckett, Elisa Maria Garattoni, Emiliano E. Lareu, bears and numerous passers-by who helped
Emill Spilchak, Erin Howe, Graham Leggett, Greta, me, unwittingly or otherwise, during my re-
Dania & Robert Rauer, Janine Hancock, Jérémie search trip. Special thanks to my wife Liz, my
Robichaud, Leon Brass, Linda James, Mark Hughes, son Kieran and my mother-in-law Ammy for
Miguel Prohaska, Nicki Gay, Sara Raiola, Sharon V their company (and patience) on the road.
Whims, Stacie McGugan, Stacy Kermode, Susan
Kantor, Tom Kelly, Win Hill, Yvette Snackers.

THIS BOOK guidebook was produced by


the following:
Dankel, Bruce Evans, Emma
Gibbs, Shona Gray, Carly
This 14th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Ben Hall, Jennifer Hattam, Ga-
Planet’s Canada guidebook Buckner brielle Innes, Kellie Langdon,
was curated by Brendan Senior Product Editors Jodie Martire, Lou McGregor,
Sainsbury, Oliver Berry, John Grace Dobell, Saralinda Turner Christopher Pitts, Sarah Reid,
Lee and Regis St Louis, and Tamara Sheward, Ross Taylor,
Regional Senior Carto-
researched and written by Simon Williamson
grapher Corey Hutchison
Brendan, Oliver and John, Assisting Cartographers
Product Editor Kate Kiely
and Ray Bartlett, Gregor Julie Dodkins, Mick Garrett
Clark, Shawn Duthie, Steve Book Designer Gwen Cotter
Cover Researcher Naomi
Fallon, Carolyn B Heller, Anna Assisting Editors Sarah Parker
Kaminski, Adam Karlin, Craig Bailey, Andrew Bain, James
Thanks to Imogen Bannister,
McLachlan, Korina Miller, Liza Bainbridge, Judith Bamber,
Sasha Drew, Bailey Freeman,
Prado and Phillip Tang. This Michelle Bennett, Hannah
Andi Jones, Martine Power,
Cartmel, Samantha Cook, Joel
Lauren O’Connell
Cotterell, Lucy Cowie, Melanie
8 80
Oliver Berry Maxime Aubin in Québec City; Vicky Drolet
Big thanks to Ben Buckner for the chance to in Malbaie; Sylvie Senécal & Pierre Lachance
return to write about Canada, to the Lonely in Ville de Mont-Tremblant; and Carolyne Cyr
Planet editors for whipping my work into and Pierre-André Guichoud in Ste-Adèle. Et
shape, and to my fellow writers for making à mon cher ‘pays d’hiver’ qui a combattu le
this book what it is. Heartfelt thanks to Rosie bon combat et gagné! (And to my beloved
Hillier for putting up with my wanderlust, `land of winter’ that fought the good fight and
won!). As always, my share is dedicated to
BE H I N D TH E SC E N E S

and to Susie Berry for long-distance cor-


respondence. Thanks also to Sam White, my now spouse and almost Quebecer,
Justin Foulkes, Deborah Gill, Anna Louis and Michael Rothschild.
many others for useful Canadian tips and Carolyn B Heller
much-needed hospitality.
Many thanks to all the friends and colleagues
John Lee who shared their Québec tips, especially
Heartfelt thanks to Maggie for joining me Kim Huard-Carette and Emily Dunn. Special
at all those restaurants and for keeping me thanks to Ben Buckner for signing me onto
calm during the brain-throbbing final write- the Canada team, to Suzie Loiselle and
up phase of this project. Thanks also to Max, Étienne Fiola for all the advice and the
our crazy-whiskered ginger cat, for sticking crêpes, and to Michaela Albert, ace travel
by my desk and also reminding me to chase buddy, snow hiker and champion lobster
him around the house every once in a while. eater.
Cheers also to my brother Michael for visiting Anna Kaminski
from England and checking out some local
breweries with me: you really know how to go Huge thanks to Ben for entrusting me
the extra mile. with Nunavut, NWT and Manitoba, and to
everyone who’s helped me along the way.
Ray Bartlett In particular: Theresa and the merry crew
of medics, plus Stephen, Alan and Brian
Thanks first and foremost, to Buck, for the
in Iqaluit, Markus in Pangnirtung, Joamie,
chance to work on this, and to each of the
Pootoogook and Silaqqi in Cape Dorset, Don
editors who will peek at it afterwards, and to
and Christine in Fort Smith, Sherry in Val-
the great team of co-authors. Thanks as well
leyview, Jacob and Herb in Yellowknife, John
to my family, friends, and to the incredible
and Gina in Fort Providence, Lois in Fort
collage of folks I met along the way: Kristina,
Simpson, Wayne at Checkpoint and Minerva
Vera, Rubí, Miro, Allan & Dan, Cat and Greg,
in Inuvik.
Louise and Melva, Alice H, Molly and Spencer
(congrats!), Morgan, William Flenders, Josh Adam Karlin
W, Char, the Lindsays, Riya and many more. Big thanks: Ben Buckner, for getting me on
this project; Anna Kaminski, my commiser-
Gregor Clark ator in chief; my fellow co-authors; Carolyn
Heartfelt thanks to all of the kind Albertans and Adam in St John’s; Gordon in Bonavista;
and fellow travelers who shared their love and the construction crews of the New-Wes-
knowledge of Banff and Jasper – especially Valley; mom and dad; my wild little Isaac;
Karina Birch, Kate Williams, Ken Wood, Paul and my favorite traveling companions,
Krywicki, Erin Wilkinson, Ed and Vanessa, Rachel, who can layer for anything, and
Shauna and Lindsay. Thanks also to the fam- Sanda, who endures the road better than her
ily and friends who helped me explore Banff daddy.
and Jasper’s trails: Chloe, Sophie, Wes and
Ted, that means you! Couldn’t have asked for Craig McLachlan
a more delightful research crew. A hearty thanks to all those who helped out
on the road, but most of all, to my exception-
Shawn Duthie ally beautiful wife, Yuriko, who maintained
It was great to reconnect with my home prov- semi-control of my craft beer intake.
ince and my deepest thanks to Vivek, Danny
and Stefan for allowing me to sleep on your Korina Miller
couch, driving too many kilometres to count Thank-you to Ben Buckner for inviting me
and just making the research even more fun to join this project, to my fellow authors for
than usual. Of course, my biggest thank you their enthusiasm and to Imogen Bannister for
is to my wife and son who put up with all my her support. Huge thanks to my parents who
traveling! kept things ticking along while I was away, to
Kirk for being my rock, and to my daughters,
Steve Fallon Simone and Monique, who make coming
Un très grand merci to the folk who offered home the best part of traveling. To the people
assistance, ideas and/or hospitality along of New Brunswick, merci for sharing your
the way, including Gabriel d’Anjou Drouin and truly beautiful province with me.
881
Liza Prado ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
A shout out to the extraordinary Lonely Plan- Climate map data adapted from Peel MC,
et team: Ben Buckner, the production crew, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-
my co-authors – I’m so proud to be able to ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate
work with you. Mil gracias to Mom and Dad Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System
for your boundless support, love, and curios- Sciences, 11, 1633–44.
ity about places so close to home. Big thanks
Cover photograph: Alberta, hdsidesign/

BE H I N D TH E SC E N E S
to Eva and Leo for waiting so patiently for
‘Fun…With Mom.’ And Gary, my love, there is Shutterstock©
absolutely no way I could do my job without
you. Your support, your understanding, your
cheerleading. Thank you, always.

Phillip Tang
Thank you to Ben Buckner and the Destina-
tion Editors for your expertise and legacy.
Muchas gracias a Lalo (José Eduardo García
Sánchez) por tu apoyo y consejo sobre estilo
y mucho más desde lejos. Thank you to Felix,
Nick Zhang and all the other Montréalers who
offered guidance; and to Manuelle González
Goretti for advice on the Eastern Townships
and adventures in the Village.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
8 82

Index
A animals, see individual art galleries & museums Elliston 488
Abitibi‑Témiscamingue species 30, see also individual Fish Point Provincial
330‑1 Annapolis Royal 370‑2 locations Nature Reserve 159
Acadian Historic Village 432 Annapolis Valley 368‑75 Athabasca Glacier 596‑7 Inglewood Bird Sanctu‑
Acadian Peninsula 431 Anne of Green Gables 20, ATMs 860 ary 579
Acadian Shores 364‑7 455, 458‑9, 20 avalanches 747 Iona Beach Regional
Antigonish 380‑1 Avalon Peninsula 479‑85 Park 664
accessible travel 854
Avon River 147 Oak Hammock Marsh 519
accommodations 854‑6 Appalachian Trail 316
Queen Maud Migratory
activities 28, 32‑6, see aquariums
Bird Sanctuary 826
individual activities, Aquarium du Québec 282 B Sackville Waterfowl
individual locations Bonne Bay Marine Station Baccalieu Trail 483‑4 Park 427
Advocate Harbour 377‑8 498 Baddeck 388‑90 Shepody Bay Shorebird
air travel 865‑6, 867‑8 Exploramer 314 Baffin 821‑4 Reserve 423
Alaska Highway 769‑70, Fundy Discovery Baffin Island 22, 821-4, 22 Upper Canada Migratory
779‑86 Aquarium 406 Bird Sanctuary 215
Baie Comeau 323
Alberta 562‑626, 563 Homarus Eco‑Centre 428 Vancouver 648
Baie St Paul 294‑6
accommodations 562 New Brunswick Wallace Bay National
Baie Ste Catherine 299‑300
climate 562, 565 Aquarium 431 Wildlife Area 378
ballooning 222
food 562 Ocean Sciences Centre Witless Bay Ecological
Banff Legacy Trail 595
highlights 563 509 Reserve 480
Banff National Park
history 564 Ripley’s Aquarium of bison 532, 621, 805-6,
589‑618, 590
Canada 80 546‑7
itineraries 564 Banff Town 599‑607, 600
Shaw Centre for the Blachford Lake 803
travel seasons 562 Banks Island 814
Salish Sea 694 black bears 843‑4
travel to/from 565 Barkerville 757‑8
Ucluelet Aquarium 709‑10 Blanc Sablon 511
travel within 565 Bathurst 433‑4
Vancouver Aquarium blogs 651
Alert Bay 716‑17, 654 Battle Harbour 513
641‑2 Blomidon Mountains 506‑7
Algonquin Provincial Park Battlefords 559
archaeological sites Blue Mountain 168‑9
194‑8 Bay d’Espoir 496
Colony of Avalon 482 Bluenose 359
Alma 422‑3 Bay of Fundy 18, 18
Cupids Cove Plantation boat travel 867, 868, see
Amherst 375 beaches 31, see also also individual locations
Provincial Historic
Amherstburg 158 individual locations
Site 483 bobsledding
amusement parks Bear River 367
Kejimkujik National Calgary 580
Board Game House 700 bears 843-4, 843
Park 362 Boldt Castle 210, 51
Calaway Park 580 Beaver Creek 785‑6
Mallikjuaq Historic Park Bonaventure 320‑1
Canada’s Wonderland 93 822 Bella Coola 757
Bonavista 487‑9
Centreville Amusement Writing‑on‑Stone Bella Coola Valley 759‑61
books 778
Park 80 Provincial Park 622 Bell Island 510
food 848
La Ronde 259 architecture belugas 846
history 833, 838
Magnetic Hill 424 Maisons de Bouteilles bicycle travel, see cycling
wine 850
Niagara’s Fury 127 459‑60 Big Tancook Island 355
border crossings 866
Wild Play Element Parks Old Montréal 241 Biodôme 27, 243
Bouctouche 429‑30
699‑700 Arctic, the 798, 819 birds 846
Bowen Island 666
tours 818, 819 bird‑watching 319
Bowron Lake 758
area codes 25 Alberta Birds of Prey
Boyle Point 711
Foundation 621
Map Pages 000 Armstrong 741 Bracebridge 163‑4
Baddeck 389
Photo Pages 000 art 30 Brackley Beach 451
Carleton 321
883
Brandon 531‑2 C Killarney Provincial Cape St Mary’s Ecological
Brantford 139‑40 cable cars Park 176 Reserve 484
Brentwood Bay 695 Jasper Skytram 611 Kouchibouguac National Caraquet 432‑3
breweries 315, see also Park 430 Carcross Desert 786
Lake Louise Summer
distilleries Gondola 607 L’Anse St Jean 303 Cariboo Chilcotin Coast
46 North Brewing Niagara Falls 127 Lunenburg 359 757‑60
Corp 177 Matapédia 322 caribou 845
Peak 2 Peak Gondola

INDEX B- C
Bellwoods Brewery 113 669 Mayne Island 724‑5 Carleton 321‑2
Copper Bottom Sea to Sky Gondola 667 Mt Carleton Provincial Carmacks 787‑8
Brewing 447 Park 403 car & motorcycle travel
Cabot Trail 14, 52, 383‑8,
Craft Beer Corner 444 Nahanni National Park 866‑7, 870‑1, see also
50, 14, 53
Evermore Brewing Reserve 810 scenic drives
Company 461 Calgary 575‑89, 576‑7
Nelson 755 Carcross 786‑7
Gananoque Brewing accommodations 581‑2
North Bay 193 Castlegar 753
Co 212 activities 580
North Pender Island 722 Causapscal 322
Garrison Brewing drinking & nightlife 586
Company 351 North Rustico 453 Cavendish 458‑9
entertainment 586‑7
Guelph Beer Bus 142 Parry Sound 165‑6 caves
festivals & events 580‑1
Henderson Brewing Parc National des Bonnechere Caves 222
food 582‑6
Company 114 Grands Jardins 295‑6 Canmore 594
shopping 587‑8
Kingston Brewing Port Alberni 703 Grotte de St Elzéar 320
sights 578‑80
Company 209 Powell River 679 Horne Lake Caves &
tourist information 588
Mill Street Brewery 112 Pukaskwa National Outdoor Centre 702
tours 580 Park 185
Outlaw Brew Co. 152 Warsaw Caves
travel to/from 588 Salt Spring Island 720 Conservation Area
Persephone Brewing
Company 676 travel within 581, 588‑9 Sechelt 678 200
Quidi Vidi Brewery 477 Cambridge Bay 826 Southampton 152 Ceilidh Trail 382‑3
Rorschach Brewing Cameron Lake 623 St Andrews by‑the‑Sea cell phones 24, 862
Co 112 Campbell River 713‑14 408 Change Islands 494‑6
Tofino Brewing Company Campbellton 434 St Martins 420 Chapleau Crown Game
709 camping 855 Telegraph Cove 717 Preserve 184
Townsite Brewing 679 Campobello Island 410‑11 Temagami 192 Charlevoix 17, 294‑300,
Tree Brewing Beer Canmore 593‑6 Tobermory 171 295, 17
Institute 739 Charlottetown 439‑45,
Canning 369 Tofino 707
Woodyard Brewhouse & 440, 456
canoeing & kayaking 57 Toronto 95
Eatery 804
Advocate Harbour 377 Chemainus 698
Brier Island 369‑70 Trois Pistoles 309
Algonquin Provincial Chester 355‑6
Brigus 483 Twilliingate Island 493
Park 195‑6 Chéticamp 384‑6
British Columbia 635‑770, Ucluelet 710
Banff Town 601 Chetwynd 769
636‑7 Vancouver 648
accommodations 635 Bonaventure 321 Chicken 793
Victoria (British
climate 635 Bowen Island 666 Columbia) 686 Chilcotin 759
food 635 Broken Groups Islands Victoria (Prince Edward children, travel with 60‑4,
Unit 705‑6 Island) 450 258‑9
highlights 636‑7
Chester 355 Wawa 183 Ottawa 225
national parks 638
Dawson City 791 Whitehorse 776 Québec City 282
travel seasons 635
Deer Island 409 Yellowknife 801 Toronto 99
travel within 638
wildlife 638 Denman 711 Cap Chat 314 Vancouver 647
Brockville 212‑14 Eastern Shore 393‑4 Cape Anguille 509 Winnipeg 522
Broken Groups Islands Unit Forillon National Park Cape Blomidon 369 Chisasibi 333
705‑6 317 Cape Breton Island 381‑92 Churchill 21, 534‑7
Bromont 269 Galiano Island 723 Cape Dorset 822‑3 Clearwater 758
Bruce Peninsula 169‑74, Gananoque 210 Cape Enrage 423 climate 24, 32‑6, see also
79, 78‑9 Gibsons 676 Cape George 381
individual regions
budget 25, 855 Goulais River 181 climate change 26, 798
Cape Jourimain 427
Burgeo 511 Guelph 141 Collingwood 168‑9
Cape North 387
Burgess Shale Fossil Île du Cap aux Meules Columbia Icefield 597
Cape Ray 509
Beds 748 328 Comox Valley 712‑13
Cape Scott Provincial
Burin Peninsula 489‑90 Kananaskis Country 591 Confederation Bridge
Park 719
Burwash Landing 785 Kejimkujik National 438, 41
Cape Shore 484‑5
bus travel 866, 869 Park 362 Confederation Trail 443,
Cape Smokey 386
business hours 861 Kensington 458 457
Cape Spear 478
884
Corner Brook 505‑6, 506 D drinking & nightlife 573 Manito Ahbee 523
Cornwall Island 214 Dalhousie 434 entertainment 573‑7 New Brunswick Highland
costs 855, 858 daredevils 131 festivals & events 568 Games Festival 400
Cowichan Bay 698 Dark Sky Festival 36, 616 sights 567‑8 Québec City’s Winter
Cowichan Valley 697‑8 tourist information 575 Carnival 32, 35
Dark Sky Preserves 31
Cranbrook 753 tours 568 Queen City Ex 541‑3
Dartmouth 353‑94
Creston 753 travel to/from 575 Royal St John’s Regatta
Dawson City 21, 783,
I N D E X C - F

470
cross‑country skiing 788‑93, 783 travel within 575
Saskatoon Ex 556
Canmore Nordic Centre Dawson Creek 769 electricity 857
593 Saskatoon Fringe
Decho 808‑10 elk 844, 629 Festival 556
Garibaldi Provincial deer 845 Elk Island 574
Park 667 Shakespeare by the Sea
Deer Island 409‑10 Elliot Lake 178 Festival 470
Mt MacPherson Ski Dempster Highway 793‑4 Elliston 488 Snowking Winter Festival
Area 743
Denman 711‑12 Elora 144‑6 802
Whistler 673
Destruction Bay 785 embassies & consulates wine 852
Whistler Olympic Park
Digby 368‑9 857 Winnipeg Fringe Theatre
671
Dildo 484 Emerald Lake 748 Festival 523
Crowsnest Pass 625
Dingwall 387 emergencies 25 World Pond Hockey
Cupids 483
Dinosaur Provincial Park etiquette 857 Tournament 404
currency 24
620 Evandale 401 Writers at Woody Point
customs regulations 856 Festival 500
discount cards 856‑7 events 32‑6
cycling 57‑8, 868 Field 749
distilleries 28 exchange rates 25
Banff Legacy Trail 595 Fillongley 711
Blue Roof Distillers
Banff Town 601‑2 424‑5 film festivals
Calgary 580, 581 Eau Claire Distillery 588
F Atlantic International
Canmore 593 Far North 330‑3 Film Festival 345
Fernie Distillers 752
Cape Breton Highlands farms Hot Docs 96
Glenora Inn & Distillery
National Park 384 382 Carmelis Goat Cheese Inside Out 96
Confederation Trail 443 Artisan 737
Ironworks Distillery 359 Silver Wave Film Festival
Corner Brook 505 Davison Orchards 741 400
Jones Distilling 743
Dingwall 388 Morningstar Farm 702 Toronto International
Myriad View Distillery
Halifax 343 448 Okanagan Lavender Film Festival 36, 97‑8
Icefields Parkway 598 Farm 737 Vancouver International
Pemberton Distillery 674
Île Aux Coudres 297 Planet Bee Honey Farm Film Festival 649
Prince Edward Distillery & Meadery 740‑1
Île d’Orléans 293 448 Fireworks Feast 27
Salt Spring Island First Nations peoples
Jasper Town 612‑13 Victoria Distillers 696 Cheese 720 839‑40
Kelowna 737 diving 171, 686 Faro 781 fishing 59
Kettle Valley Rail Trail dogsledding Fergus 144‑6 Georgetown 446‑7
740 Canmore 593‑4 Ferryland 481‑2 Matane 313
Lac St Jean 305 Churchill 536 Festival Acadien 35 Petty Harbour 479
Lévis 292 Jasper Town 614 festivals & events 32-6, Florenceville‑Bristol 402
Mahone Bay 356 Doukhobors 553 see also food festivals,
Montréal 244 Fogo Island 494‑6
driving, see car & film festivals, music
Québec City 281‑2, motorcycle travel, festivals food 30, 847‑9, 858, 2,
282‑3 scenic drives Alianait Arts Festival 819 848
Rum Runners Trail 353 Drumheller 20, 618‑20 Basque Festival 490 food festivals 847
Sherbrooke 272 Dumping Day 365 Bastille Day (St‑Pierre & Cornucopia 672
Southampton 152 Miquelon) 490 Digby Scallop Days 368
Toronto 93, 95 Chinese New Year 32, 35 Fabulicious! 134
E Fall Flavours 441
Val‑David 264 Eastend 551 Dark Sky Festival 36, 616
Vancouver 648 Festival Acadien 432 Farm Day in the City 441
Eastern Fundy Shore 420‑3
Victoria 683, 685‑6 Festival du Voyageur 523 Halifax Seaport Cider &
Eastern Ontario 194‑230,
Whitehorse 776 Beerfest 345
195 First Nations University
Wolfe Island 208 of Canada Pow Wow Lobster Carnival 379
Eastern Shore 392‑4
Yellowknife 799 543 Londonlicious 153
Eastern Townships 267‑73,
Folklorama 523 Maple Syrup Festival 144
268
Iceberg Festival 503 PEI Burger Love 441
Edmonton 565‑75, 566,
Map Pages 000 Islendingadagurinn 530 PEI International Shell‑
569
Lamèque International fish Festival 441
Photo Pages 000 accommodations 568‑70
Baroque Festival 431 Summerlicious 97
885
Taste of Saskatchewan Gibsons 675‑6 Hartland 402 Kejimkujik National
556 Gimli 530 Havre St Pierre 326 Park 362
Tyne Valley Oyster Gitanyow 769 Hay River 806‑7 Kettle Valley Rail Trail
Festival 462 Gjoa Haven 826 Head‑Smashed‑in‑Buffalo 740
Union Summer 96 Glacier Lake 809 Jump 621 Killarney Provincial
Winterlicious 96 health 858‑9 Park 174
Glacier National Park 746
Ford’s Cove 711 Hecla 531 King Creek Ridge 590
Goat Island 391

I N D E X F - H
Fort Erie 138 Hector 379 Kinney Lake & Berg Lake
Godbout 323‑4 Trails 768
Fort Nelson 770 Goderich 150‑1 Helliwell 711
Fortress of Louisbourg 392 Kluane National Park
Golden 746‑8 Hermitage 496
784‑5
forts golf 77 Herschel Island‑Qikiqtaruk
Territorial Park 794 Kokanee Glacier
Fort Anne National Goulds 479‑80 Provincial Park 754
Historic Site 370‑1 Hidden Lake 805
grain elevators 532 Kootenay National Park’
Fort George 133 High Level 626 750
Grand Bend 150
Fort Henry National Highway 3 805‑6 Kouchibouguac National
Historic Site 204‑5 Grand Manan Island 414‑16
Highway 20 759 Park 430
Fort Langley 665 Grand Métis 313
hiking 55, 57 Lake Agnes & the
Fort Malden National Grand Pré 372‑5
Ahousat 706 Beehives 607‑9
Historic Site 158 Grand Prix du Canada
27, 244 Algonquin Provincial Lake Superior Provincial
Fort St James National Park 196 Park 182
Historic Site 767 Grande Prairie 626
Appalachian Trail 316 L’Anse aux Meadows 503
Fort St Joseph National Gravelbourg 549
Banff Town 602 Long Beach Unit 704‑5
Historic Site 174 Gravenhurst 162‑3
Big Tancook Island 355 Maligne Canyon 613
Fort Wellington National Great Bear Rainforest 760
Blomidon Mountains 507 Matane 313
Historic Site 213 Great Slave Lake 799
Bruce Trail 124 McNabs Island 344
Fort York National Greenspond 497
Historic Site 77 Cape Breton Highlands Meares Island 706
Greenwich Dunes 450, 457 National Park 383‑94
Fortress of Louisbourg Mt Assiniboine Trail 602
Grimshaw 626 Cape Chignecto
392 Mt Carleton Provincial
grizzly bears 843‑4 Provincial Park 377 Park 403‑4
Old Fort Eire 138
Gros Morne National Park Cape Jourimain 427
Fort Simpson 808‑9 Nahanni National Park
498‑501 Cape Mabou Highlands Reserve 809‑10
Fort Smith 807 Grosse Île 306, 330 382
Fort Steele Heritage Niagara Falls 127
Group of Seven 176 Cape Scott Provincial
Town 751 Norman Wells 811
Grouse Grind 643 Park 719
François 511 Pangnirtung 821
Guelph 140‑2 Cape Split 369
Fraser River Canyon 726 Parc National
Cory Pass Loop 602
d’Aiguebelle 331
Fraser Valley 725‑8, 726 Crypt Lake Trail 623
Fredericton 397‑402, 399 H Crystal Crescent Beach
Parc National du Bic 310
Haida Gwaii 11, 762‑5, 11 Parc National du Canada
Freeport 369 345
Haines Highway 786 de la Mauricie 275
Frelighsburg 267 Cup & Saucer Trail 172
Haines Junction 780‑1 Peter Lougheed
French Shore 366‑7, 502 Delap’s Cove 371 Provincial Park 589‑90
Frontenac Arch Biosphere Haliburton Highlands 198‑9 East Coast Trail 480 Plain of Six Glaciers
201 Halifax 338‑53, 340‑1 Eastern Townships 270 Trail 609
Fundy Isles 409‑16, 410 accommodations 345‑6 EC Manning Provincial Point Pleasant Park 344
Fundy National Park 420‑2 activities 343‑4 Park 725
Ptarmigan Cirque 590
Fundy Trail Parkway 421 drinking & nightlife Fogo Island 495
Pukaskwa National Park
350‑1 Forillon National Park 184‑5
entertainment 351 316‑17
Rimouski 310
G festivals & events 344‑5 Fundy National Park 421
Galiano Island 723‑4 Sea to Sky Trail 668
food 346‑50 Fundy Trail Parkway 421
galleries, see individual Singing Pass Trail 672
shopping 351‑3 Garibaldi Provincial
locations Park 667 Skerwink Trail 473, 486,
sights 339‑43 472
Gananoque 210‑12 Grassy Point 388
tourist information 352 Skoki Valley Trail 609
Gander 492 Gros Morne National
tours 344 Skyline Trail 613
Gaspé 317‑18 Park 499
travel within 352‑3 Sleeping Giant Provincial
Gaspé Peninsula 311‑22, Grouse Grind 643
312 Hamilton 137‑9 Park 185
Jasper Town 613, 614
gay travelers 859-60 Hanlan’s Point 77 Squamish 668
Johnston Canyon & the
George Street 476 Harbour Breton 496 Inkpots 602 St John’s 470
Georgetown 446‑7 Harbour Grace 483‑4 Juan de Fuca Marine Stawamus Chief Trail
Harbourfront Centre 76, 2 Trail 696 668
Georgian Bay 165‑74, 167
8 86
hiking continued Fort Henry National Motherwell Homestead horses 634
Stein Valley Nlaka’pamux Historic Site 204‑5 National Historic Horseshoe Lake 611
Heritage Park 726‑7 Fort Langley 665 Site 552 hot springs
Strathcona Provincial Fort Malden National Norstead 503
Maquinna Marine
Park 715 Historic Site 158 North Pacific Cannery Provincial Park 706
Sunshine Coast Trail 678 Fort No 1 292 National Historic
Miette Hot Springs 585,
Site 761
Tadoussac 301 Fort Prince of Wales 611, 585
Old Town (Yellowknife)
I N D E X H - I

Taylor Head Provincial National Historic Site Nakusp Hot Springs 757
534‑5 799
Park 393 Radium Hot Springs
Fort St James National Place d’Armes 237
Tofino 707 750‑1
Historic Site 767 Port au Choix National
Tonquin Valley Trail 613 Historic Site 501 Takhini Hot Springs 776
Toronto 93 Fort St Joseph National Upper Hot Springs
Historic Site 174 Port Royal National
Trinity 486 Historic Site 371 Pool 599
Fort Walsh National Huntsville 164‑5
Twillingate Island 493 Historic Site 552 Red Bay National
Victoria 686 Historic Site 513 Huron heritage 292
Fort York National
West Coast Trail Unit 705 Historic Site 77 Riel House National Hyder 770
White Point 387 Historic Site 522
Fortifications of Québec
Whitehorse 776 Ryan Premises National
National Historic Site
Wilcox Ridge 597 277‑8
Historic Site 487 I
Sault Ste Marie Canal ice skating
Wild Pacific Trail 710 Fortress of Louisbourg
National Historic Calgary 580
Yoho National Park 748 392, 348‑9 Site 179
Grand Pré National Halifax 344
historic buildings & sites Schneider Haus National
Historic Site 373 Ottawa 221
Balmoral Grist Mill 378 Historic Site 143
Green Gables Heritage Seal Cove 414 Québec City 282
Barbour Living Heritage
Place 458‑9 Signal Hill National Rideau Canal 221
Village 497
Griffin House 138 Historic Site 467 Toronto 93‑4
Batoche National His‑
toric Site 560, 546‑7 Grosse Île 306 Ska‑Nah‑Doht Village & ice wine 132
Battlefields Park 279 Heritage Park Historical Museum 153 Icefields Parkway 585,
Village 579 SS Klondike National 596‑9, 584
Bell Homestead National
Historic Site 140 Hôtel du Parlement Historic Site 775 Île Aux Coudres 296‑7
279‑80 St‑Boniface Basilica 521 Île aux Marins 490
Blackfoot Crossing
Historical Park 624 Inglis Grain Elevators Ste‑Marie among the Île d’Orléans 293‑4
National Historic Hurons 166 Île du Cap aux Meules
Bonanza Creek Discov‑
Site 532 Sutherland Steam 327‑9
ery Site 789
John Freeman Walls Mill 378 Île du Havre Aubert 329
Cape Merry 534
Historic Site 157 Todmorden Mills Herit‑
Cape Spear National Île Verte 309
Kings Landing 398 age Site 89
Historic Site 478 Îles de la Madeleine 327‑30
Klondike National Uncle Tom’s Cabin
Castle Hill National Historic Site 156 indigenous cultural
Historic Sites 789
Historic Site 485 experiences
‘Ksan Historical Village & Upper Fort Garry
Cave & Basin National Heritage Provincial Blackfoot Crossing
Museum 766
Historic Site 599‑601 Park 519 Historical Park 624
La Citadelle 277
Citadel Hill National Village Historique Val Eskasoni Cultural
Historic Site 339‑42 L’Anse Amour Burial Journeys 391
Jalbert 305
Mound 511
Cupids Cove Plantation Ye Matthew Legacy 487 Experience Akwesasne
Provincial Historic L’Anse aux Meadows Welcome Centre 214
National Historic York Factory National
Site 483 Historic Site 535 Great Spirit Circle
Site 502
Fairview Lawn Cemetery history 28, 828‑38 Trail 172
343 Laurier House National
Historic Sit 219 Haida Gwaii 765 Lennox Island Cultural
Fanshawe Pioneer Village Centre 462
Le Château Frontenac Klondike Gold Rush 787
153 Membertou Heritage
276 hitchhiking 871
Forks National Historic Park 390
Site 520 Le Site d’Autrefois 329 hockey 22, 58, 22
Mi’kmaw Encampment
Le Village historique Hopewell Rocks 412, 422,
Fort Anne National 362‑3
acadien de la 412‑13
Historic Site 370‑1 Nuyumbalees Cultural
Nouvelle‑Écosse 365 Hornby Islands 711‑12
Fort Battleford National Centre 715
Historic Site 559 Les Galets 326 horse riding
Teslin Tlingit Heritage
Fort Beauséjour 424 Lucy Maud Montgom‑ Banff Town 602
Center 780
ery’s Cavendish Haliburton Highlands
Homestead 458 Wiikwemkoong
199
Tourism 172
Maison Drouin 293 Jasper Town 613
Map Pages 000 Indigenous cultures 828,
Maison du Bootlegger L’Anse St Jean 303 839‑42
Photo Pages 000 298 North Hatley 272
8 87
indigenous festivals Kawarthas 199‑200 Land O’ Lakes 200‑1 lobsters 847, 7
Panmure island Powwow kayaking 57, see canoeing languages 24, 874‑8 London 153‑5
446 & kayaking L’Anse aux Meadows 501‑4 Long Beach Unit 704‑5
Pictou Landing First Kelowna 736‑40, 738, 4 L’Anse St Jean 303 Long Island 369‑70
Nation Powwow 379 Kensington 458 Laurentians 262‑7, 268, 23 Lost Lagoon 639
Ingonish 386‑7 Kentville 369 Leamington 158‑60 Lunenburg 357‑61, 358,
Ingraham Trail 805 Kettle Valley Rail Trail 740 348‑9
legal matters 859

I N D E X I - M
in‑line skating Killick Coast 509‑10 Lytton 726‑7
Les Bergeronnes 302‑3
Halifax 344 Kimberley 752‑3 Le Témis 308
insurance 859 Kimmirut 823 lesbian travelers 859-60 M
internet access 859
Kings Landing 412, 412‑13 Lethbridge 621‑2 Mabou 382
internet resources 25, 27
Kingston 204‑9, 206 Lévis 292 Mackenzie Highway 626,
Inuit culture & heritage
Kinsol Trestle 692 LGBTIQ+ travelers 859‑60 806
279, 290, 323, 330,
333, 841 Kitchener‑Waterloo 143‑4 Toronto 89 Magog 270‑1
Inuvik 811‑13 kitesurfing 668 lighthouses 29, 324 Mahone Bay 356‑7
Inuvik‑Tuktoyaktuk Kitikmeot 826 Cabot Head Lighthouse Maitland 372
Highway 27 Kivalliq 824‑6 170 Malignant Cove 381
Inverness 382 Klondike Gold Rush 787 Cape Bear Lighthouse & Maligne Lake 611
Iqaluit 817‑21 Klondike Highway 786‑8 Marconi Station 446
Manitoba 26, 516‑37, 518
islands Klondike Kate’s 792, 29 Cape Bonavista
accommodations 516
Lighthouse 487
Baffin Island 22, 821-4, Klondike Trail of ‘98 Road climate 516, 517
22 Relay 784 Cape d’Or Lighthouse
377 food 516
Grosse Île 306 Kluane National Park 784‑5
Cape Enrage Lighthouse geography 517
Île‑aux‑Basques 309 Kootenay National Park 29, 423 highlights 518
Île Aux Coudres 296‑7 749‑50
Cape Forchu history 517
Île Bonaventure 319 Kootenays 742‑57, 744‑5 Lightstation 29, 365 travel seasons 516
Île d’Orléans 293 Kouchibouguac National Cape George Point travel to/from 517
Île du Cap aux Meules Park 430‑2 Lighthouse 381 weather 516
327‑9
Cape Spear Lighthouse Manitou Beach 553
Île du Havre aux Maisons 29, 479
329‑30 L Manitoulin Island 17,
La Malbaie 297‑9 East Point Lighthouse 172‑4, 17
Île Grande Basque 324 447‑8, 457
La Ronge 559 Maple Creek 551
Île St‑Barnabé 310 Fort Point Lighthouse
Île Verte 309 Labrador 510‑15, 464, 512 maple leaf symbol 832
362
Îles de la Madeleine accommodations 463 maple syrup 271
Gilbert’s Cove
327‑30 climate 463, 465 Lighthouse 366‑7 maps 860
Isle aux Morts 509 food 463 Head Harbour Marché Atwater 251, 250‑1
Mingan islands 326 geography 465 Lighthouse 411 Marché de Maisonneuve
itineraries 37‑45, 37, 38, highlights 464 Lobster Cove Head 251
39, 40, 42, 43, 44‑5 history 465 Lighthouse 499 Marché Jean‑Talon 251,
Alberta 564 language 465 Long Point Lighthouse 251
Newfoundland 466 planning 471 492 Marché Lachine 251, 250
Ontario 73 travel seasons 463 Miscou Lighthouse 431 Margaree Forks 382
Quebec 234 weather 463 Mulholland Park marijuana 704
wildlife 465 Lighthouse 411 markets 30, 250‑1
Labrador Straits 510‑13 Panmure Head Annapolis Royal 372
J Lighthouse 446
James Bay 332‑3 Lac Brome 269‑70 Bromont 269
Peggy’s Point Lighthouse
Jasper National Park 589- Lac St Jean 304‑5 Charlottetown 443
29, 354, 29
618, 611, 612 Lac Témiscouata 308 Coombs 702
Point Amour Lighthouse
Jasper Town 611‑18, 615 Lake District 626 29, 511
Edmonton 570, 573
Joggins Fossil Cliffs 349, Lake Edith 612 Halifax 351
Point Prim Lighthouse
376, 349 Lake Huron 150‑3 29, 444 Hamilton 139
Johnson’s Crossing 780 Lake Louise 607‑10, 608 Swallowtail Lighthouse Kingston 204
Lake Nipissing 193 29, 414 London 154
West Point Lighthouse Montréal 240
K Lake O’Hara 748‑9
Kamloops 727‑8 Lake Superior Shoreline 460 Nelson 755
Kananaskis Country 180‑5 Wood Islands Lighthouse New Brunswick 412, 412
589‑92 Lake Winnipeg 530‑1 446 Niagara Peninsula 133
Lamèque 431 Liverpool 361‑2
Kaslo 756 Ottawa 79, 78
888
markets continued Wheelhouse Brewing Kicking Horse Mountain Stan Rogers Folk Festival
Owen Sound 169 Company 762 Resort 746‑7 394
Penticton 735 Whitetooth Brewing Nelson 755 Stratford Summer Music
Peterborough 200 Company 747‑8 Penticton 734 147‑8
Richmond 663‑4 Midland 166‑8 Quadra Island 715 Summerfolk Music
Mingan Archipelago Rossland 753‑4 Festival 169
Salt Spring Island 720
National Park Reserve Whistler Mountain Bike Sunfest 153
Sechelt 678 325‑6
I N D E X M - N

Park 671‑2 TD Halifax Jazz Festival


Toronto 81, 85, 98, 118, Ministers Island 406 344
119, 31 mountaineering 58‑9
Miquelon 490‑2 Mt Carleton Provincial Park Toronto Jazz Festival 97
Vancouver 642, 660, 661
Miramichi River Valley 429 403‑5 Trails Tales Tunes Festival
Victoria 692‑3 499‑500
Miscou Island 431 Mt Edith Cavell 597
Whitehorse 777 Vancouver International
Mistaken Point Ecological Mt Geoffrey Regional
Matagami 332 Reserve 482 Jazz Festival 649
Park 711
Matane 313‑14 Mitchell, Joni 556 Victoria Ska & Reggae
Mt Stewart 449
Matapédia Valley 322 mobile phones 24, 862 Fest 686
music 28, 53
Mauricie 273‑92 Winnipeg Folk Festival
Moncton 423‑7, 425 music festivals
Mayne Island 724‑5 523
money 24, 25, 860‑1 Beaches International
Mayo 788 Muskoka Lakes 161‑5,
Mont St Pierre 316 Jazz Festival 97
McNabs Island 344 79, 79
Montague 446‑7 Boxwood Festival 360
Meares Island 706 Montgomery, Lucy Maud Calgary Folk Music
Meat Cove 387 20, 458 Festival 581 N
Meewasin Valley 554 Montmagny 306 Canadian Deep Roots Nááts’ihch’oh 634
Mennonite Heritage Village Montréal 16, 235‑62, 236, Festival 373 Nahanni National Park
550 238‑9, 242‑3 Dawson City Music Reserve 14, 809-10, 15
Mennonites 144 accommodation 247‑9 Festival 791‑2 Nakusp 757
Merrickville 214 activities 244‑5 Downtown Busker Nanaimo 698‑701, 699
Métis people 841 Festival 470‑1 Nanaimo Bara 700
drinking & nightlife
Metro Metro Festival 27 255‑7 Dreams Festival 96 Natashquan 326‑7
microbreweries entertainment 257‑8, Elora Festival 145 National Doukhobor
Annapolis Brewing 372 260 Festival of Small Halls Heritage Village 553
Backroads Brewing festivals & events 245, 441 national historic sites,
Company 756 247 Festival of the Sound 166 see historic sites
Bad Tattoo Brewing 735 food 249‑55 Fiddles on the Tobique Native American heritage
404 323
Banff Ave Brewing history 235‑6
Co 606 Folk on the Rocks 802 national & provincial parks
itineraries 241
George Street Festival see individual locations
Battery Park Beerbar & shopping 258‑63
Eatery 353‑4 471 Naujaat 825‑6
sights 236‑44
Big Spruce Brewing 390 Halifax Pop Explosion Neil’s Harbour 387
tourist information 260‑1 345
Brassneck Brewery 659 Nelson 754‑6
tours 245 Harvest Jazz & Blues
Breton Brewing 391‑2 New Brunswick 395‑434,
travel to/from 261 Festival 400 396
CrossRoads Brewing 768 travel within 261‑2 Kazoo! Fest 141 accommodations 395
Good Robot 350 walks 241 Kingston Buskers climate 395
Heritage Brewing Co 366 Montréal Jazz Festival 16, Rendezvous 206 food 395
Mt Begbie Brewing 746 34, 17 Limestone City Blues highlights 396
Propeller Brewing moose 844, 845 Festival 206 history 397
Company 351 Lunenburg Folk Harbour
Moose Jaw 545‑8, 546 language 397
Rare Bird 394 Festival 360
Moraine Lake 607 travel seasons 395
Sleeping Giant Brewing Metro Metro festival 27
Co. 188 Morant’s Curve Viewpoint weather 395
607 Montréal Jazz Festival
Smithers Brewing New Carlisle 320
Morrisburg 214‑15 16, 34, 17
Co 766 New Denver 756‑7
Mosaic Stadium 26 Music on the Barge 162
Tank 310 596 New Glasgow 454‑5
motorcycle travel, see car Newfoundland & Labra‑
Tatamagouche Brewing New London 455‑8
& motorcycle travel dor Folk Festival 471
Co 379 New Westminster 665‑6
mountain biking 57‑8, 56 Ottawa Bluesfest 222
Two Islands Brewing 377 New World Island 492‑4
Canmore Nordic Centre PEI Bluegrass & Old
Time Music Festival New‑Wes‑Valley 497
593
448 Newfoundland 463‑509,
Comox Valley 712 464
Map Pages 000 Rifflandia 686
Fernie 751 accommodations 463
Photo Pages 000 Sasktel Saskatchewan
Fundy National Park 421 climate 463, 465
Jazz Festival 556
8 89
food 463 Casa Loma 87 O Penticton 733‑6
geography 465 City Hall 85 Oak Island 357 Percé 318‑20
highlights 464 Flatiron Building 81‑3 observatories 186, 298, 612 Peterborough 199‑200
history 465 Government House Ogema 548‑9 Petty Harbour 479‑80
itineraries 466 (Fredericton) 398‑434 Okanagan Valley 728‑42, Peyto Lake 597
language 465 Halifax Town Clock 343 732 Peyto, ‘Wild’ Bill 603
planning 471 Legislative Assembly Old Crow 794 Pictou 379‑80

I N D E X N - P
travel seasons 463 (Iqaluit) 818 Old Lower Town 278‑9 Pinware 511
travel to/from 465‑6 Legislative Assembly Oliver 729‑33 Placentia 484‑5
(Yellowknife) 799 Ontario 70‑230, 71
weather 463 planning
Loyalist House 416 accommodations 70
wildlife 465 accommodations 854‑6
Niagara Falls 13, 123‑31, Manitoba Legislative climate 70, 72‑3
Building 519 budgeting 25
126, 13 culture 72 calendar of events 32‑6
Niagara Peninsula 123‑36 New Brunswick
food 70 Canada basics 24‑5
Legislative Building
Niagara Peninsula wine 398 highlights 71 Canada’s regions 65‑8
country 131‑3 history 72
NWT Diamond Centre children, travel with 60‑4
Niagara‑on‑the‑Lake 133‑7 itineraries 73
799 internet resources 25
Norman Wells 810‑11 travel seasons 70
Parliament Buildings 683 itineraries 37‑45, 37, 38,
North Bay 193‑4 travel to/from 73‑5
Parliament Hill 218 39, 40, 42, 43, 44‑5
North Cape 462 opening hours 861
Polar Bear Jail 534 repeat visitors 26‑7
North Hatley 272 orcas 845, 846
Provincial Legislature scenic drives 46‑53
North Mountain 369 541 Orillia 161‑2 train travel 46‑53, 872-3
North Pacific Cannery Rideau Hall 219 Osoyoos 729
National Historic travel seasons 24, 32‑6
Royal Canadian Mint Ottawa 215‑30, 216‑17, Pleasant Bay 386
Site 761
(Ottawa) 220‑1 220
North Pender Island 722‑3 Point Prim 444
Royal Canadian Mint accommodations 223‑4
North Rustico 451‑4 Pointe des Monts 324
(Winnipeg) 521 activities 221
North Shore 322‑7 polar bears 21, 534, 844
Senate of Canada 219 children, travel with 225
North Slave 805‑6 tours 535, 21, 633
St Andrews Blockhouse drinking & nightlife
North Sydney 390‑2 406 227‑8 Polygon Gallery 27, 647
northern lights St Dunstan’s Basilica entertainment 228‑9 Pond Inlet 823
Yellowknife 801 439 festivals & events 222‑3 Pool’s Island 497
Alberta 625, 626 Supreme Court of shopping 229 porpoises 845
Festivals 36, 616 Canada 219‑20 tourist information 229 Port Alberni 703‑4
Manitoba 536 Thomas Williams House tours 221‑2 Port au Choix 501
Northwest 68, 799, 424 Port au Port Peninsula 507
travel to/from 230
801-2, 872 Woodland Cultural Port aux Basques 508‑9,
Centre 140 travel within 230
Ontario 173 508
Owen Sound 169‑70
Québec 332, 333 Nova Scotia 334‑94, 336‑7 Port Carling 164
northern lights 19, 19 accommodations 334 Port Dover 160‑1
Northern Ontario 174‑94, climate 334 P Port Hardy 718‑19
175 food 334 Pacific Rim National Park Port McNeill 716
Northumberland Shore highlights 336‑7 Reserve 704‑6
Port Renfrew 697
428‑32 history 335 Pangnirtung 821‑2
Port Stanley 160
Northwest Territories tourist information 335 Parc d’Aiguebelle 331
795‑814, 796 Port Williams 369
travel seasons 334 Parc National du Mont
accommodations 795 Orford 271‑2 postal services 861
travel to/from 335‑8 poutine 254, 288, 2
climate 795, 797 Parc National du
travel within 338 Powell River 678‑80
food 795 Mont‑Tremblant 266‑7,
Nunavik 333 268 Prairies, the 18, 18, see
geography 797
Nunavut 815‑26, 816 Parksville 701‑3 also Manitoba,
highlights 796
accommodations 815 Parrsboro 375‑7 Saskatchewan
history 797
climate 815, 817 Parry Sound 165‑6 Prelude Lake 805
travel seasons 795
food 815 Pas, The 533 Prescott 212‑14
travel to/from 797
geography 817 Peachland 736 Prince Albert 559‑60
travel within 797‑8
highlights 816 Peace River 626 Prince Edward County
weather 795
history 817 201‑4
notable buildings Peggy’s Cove 354‑5
travel seasons 815 Prince Edward Island 20,
Beaconsfield Historic Pelee Island 158‑60
travel to/from 817 435‑62, 630, 436‑7
House 439 Pemberton 674
accommodations 435
Boldt Castle 210 Penetanguishene 166‑8
climate 435
890
Prince Edward Island Reindeer Lake 559 Sandy Island 711 Cypress Mountain 648
continued Remai Modern 27, 554 Saskatchewan 538‑61, 539 Fernie Alpine Resort 751
food 435 Réserve Faunique la accommodations 538 Grouse Mountain 648
highlights 436‑7 Vérendrye 331 climate 538, 540 Jasper Town 613‑14
history 438 Resolute 824 food 538 Kicking Horse Mountain
travel seasons 435 Revelstoke 742‑6 geography 540 Resort 746‑7
travel to/from 438 Richmond 663‑5 highlights 539 Kimberley Alpine Resort
I N D E X P - S

travel within 438‑9 Rideau Canal 23, 194, 23 752‑3


history 540
Prince George 767‑8 ride‑sharing 872 Le Massif 296
travel seasons 538
Prince Rupert 761‑2 Riel, Louis 835 Loch Lomond Ski Area
travel to/from 540
public holidays 861‑2 186‑7
Rimouski 310‑11 travel within 540
public transport 872 Marmot Basin 613‑14
Rivière du Loup 307‑9 Saskatoon 553‑9, 555, 547
puffins 66, 389, 414, 465, Mont Cascades 221
Robert Campbell Highway Saturna Island 724
471, 480, 487, 488, Mont Sutton 270
781 Sault Ste Marie 178‑80
846, 473 Roberts Creek 676‑7
Mont‑Tremblant 265
Sechelt 677‑8
Pyramid Lake 611 Mt Norquay 603
rock climbing 58‑9, 56 scenic drives 29‑30, 46‑8,
Mt Washington Alpine
Canmore 593, 594 49-53
Resort 712
Q Halifax 344 Cabot Trail 52, 50, 53 Nakiska 591
Quadra Island 715 Nahanni National Park Dinosaur Trail & Hoodoo Ottawa 221
Qualicum 701‑3 Reserve 809 Drive 619
Parc National du Bic 310
Qu’Appelle Valley 552‑3 Parc National des Grasslands Ecotour 550
Grands Jardins 295 Parc National du Mont
Québec 231‑333, 232 Highway 5 808 Orford 272
climate 231, 233 Skaha Bluffs Provincial Icefields Parkway 596‑9
Park 734 Plain of Six Glaciers
highlights 232 Inuvik 812 Trail 609
St Siméon 299
history 233 Naramata 737 Red Mountain Ski Resort
Stawamus Chief
itineraries 234 Sea to Sky Highway 47‑8, 754
Provincial Park 667
transport 234‑5 666‑9, 48 Revelstoke Mountain
Rockies Rail Route 48‑9,
Québec City 16, 276‑91, Thousand Islands Resort 743
48, 51
277, 280, 284, 16 Parkway 49‑52, 50 Silver Star 742
Rockies, the 11, 40, 742-
accommodation 283‑92 Trans‑Canada St‑Sauveur‑des‑Monts
60, 10
activities 281‑2 Highway 15, 38, 15, 38 263
Rocky Mountains 742‑57,
drinking & nightlife scenic flights Sun Peaks 728
744‑5
288‑9 Fort Simpson 808‑9 Sunshine Village 603
Rogers Place 27
entertainment 290 Inuvik 812 Val‑David 264
Ross River 781
festivals & events 283 Yellowknife 801 Whistler 654, 669-675,
Rosseau 164
food 286‑8 Scots Bay 369 655
Rossland 753‑4
shopping 290 Scotty 551 Whistler‑Blackcomb 671
Route de la Baie James
sights 276‑81 332 Sea to Sky Highway 47‑8, Whitewater Winter
tourist information 290‑1 666‑9, 48 Resort 754
Royal Tyrrell Museum 20,
seafood 30 Slate Islands 185
tours 282‑3 26, 618, 20
travel to/from 291 Sept Îles 324‑5 Smithers 766‑7
Rum Runners Trail 353
travel within 291 Shediac 428‑9 snowboarding 54‑5
Running the Goat 479
Québec separatism 836 Shelburne 363‑4 snowshoeing 671
Rustico 451‑4
Quesnel 757 Sherbrooke 272‑3 Sooke 695‑7
Quidi Vidi 467‑8 Shippagan 431 Souris 447‑9
S Shuswap 742 South Pender Island 722‑3
Saanich Peninsula 694‑5 Sidney 694‑5 South Shore 306‑11,
R Sable Island 634 Silver Trail 788 355‑64
Radisson 332 Sackville 427‑8 South Slave 806‑8
Six Nations of the Grand
Radium Hot Springs 750‑1 safety 747, 862 River 140 South Slocan 756
Ramea 511 Saguenay 304 Skeena River 766 Southampton 151‑3
Rankin Inlet 824‑5 Saguenay Fjord 300-6 skiing & snowboarding Southend 559
Red Bay 513 Sahtu 810‑11 54‑5 Southern Gulf Islands
Regina 540‑5, 542 Saint John 416‑20 Apex Mountain Resort 720‑5, 721
Reid Lake 805 Salmo 753 734 southwestern Ontario
salmon 403 Banff Town 603 137‑61, 137
Salmon Glacier 770 Blue Mountain 168 spas 591
Map Pages 000 Salt Spring Island 654, Camp Fortune 221 Squamish 666‑9, 56
Photo Pages 000 720‑2, 654 Corner Brook 505 SS Keno 791
891
SS Klondike National Telegraph Cove 717‑18 transportation 865‑73 Vancouver 13, 638‑63,
Historic Site 775, 782 telephone services 24, 862 travel within Canada 25, 640, 644‑5, 12
SS Sicamous Heritage Temagami 192‑3 867-73 accommodations 649‑51
Park 734 Terrace 766 Trent‑Severn Waterway activities 648
St Andrews By‑The‑Sea Teslin 780 200 children, travel with 647
406‑9, 412, 407, 413 t‑rex 20, 60, 551, 565, 20
The Pas 533 climate 635
St Anthony 504 Tribune Bay 711
Thompson 533 drinking & nightlife

I N D E X S -V
St Jean Port Joli 306‑7 Trinity 485‑7 658‑9
Thompson Valley 725‑8,
St John 416-420, 417 726 Trois Pistoles 309‑10 entertainment 659‑60
St John’s 466‑79, 468, Thousand Islands 209‑12 Trois‑Rivières 273‑5 festivals& events 649
472 Tuktoyaktuk 813‑14
Thousand Islands Parkway food 651‑8
St Joseph Island 174 49‑52, 50 tundra 333 medical services 661
St Martins 420 Thunder Bay 185‑9 Tunnels of Moose Jaw 545 shopping 660‑1
St Paul 626 Tignish 462 Turner Valley 588 sights 639‑48
St Peter’s Bay 449 time 862‑3 Twillingate Island 473, tourist information 661
St Siméon 299 Titanic 339, 342, 446, 492‑4, 472 tours 648‑9
St Stephen 405‑6 482,835 Tyee Club 714 travel to/from 661‑2
stand‑up paddleboarding Tiverton 369 Tyne Valley 462 travel within 662‑3
Parry Sound 165‑6 Tobique Salmon Barrier Vancouver Island 22,
Toronto 94‑5 403
U 680‑719, 680‑1, 22
Stanley Park 639 Tobique Valley 403‑5
Ucluelet 709‑11 vegetarian travelers 103
Ste‑Anne de Beaupré 294 Tok 793
Ukrainian‑Canadians 571 Veregin 553
Ste Anne des Monts 314‑15 Tombstone Territorial
Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Vernon 740‑1
Ste Flavie 312‑13 Park 794
Village 571, 584 via ferrata 603‑4
Ste Rose du Nord 305‑6 Top of the World Highway
793 Uncle Tom’s Cabin Historic Victoria (British Columbia)
Stein Valley Nlaka’pamux Site 156 680‑94, 682, 684
Heritage Park 726‑7 Toronto 21, 75‑123, 74,
82‑3, 86, 90, 94, 21 Underground Railroad 157 accommodations 686‑9
Steveston 663‑5 Unesco World Heritage
accommodations 98‑103 activities 685‑6
Stewart 770 sites
activities 93‑5 drinking & nightlife
Stewart Crossing 788 Banff National Park 690‑1
St‑Jérôme 262 children, travel with 99 589‑610, 590
drinking & nightlife entertainment 692
Stony Rapids 559 Burgess Shale Fossil festivals & events 686
111‑14 Beds 748
storm‑watching 707 food 689‑90
emergencies 120 Dinosaur Provincial
St‑Pierre 490‑2
entertainment 114‑18 Park 620 shopping 692‑3
Stratford 147‑9
events 96‑8 Grand Pré National sights 681‑5
Stratford Festival 33, 148
festivals 96‑8 Historic Site 373 tourist information 693
St‑Sauveur‑des‑Monts
food 103‑11 Head‑Smashed‑in‑ travel to/from 693
262‑3
LGBTIQ+ travelers 89 Buffalo Jump 621 travel within 693‑4
Sudbury 176‑8
medical services 120‑1 Jasper National Park walking tour 687, 687
Summerland 736
safety 120 589, 611‑18, 612 Victoria (Prince Edward
Summerside 459‑62, 460
shopping 118‑20 Joggins Fossil Cliffs 376 Island) 449‑50
Sunrise Trail 378‑81
sights 76‑93 Kluane National Park Viking Trail 19, 498, 19
Sunshine Coast 675‑80 784‑5
tourist information 121 Vikings 504, 817, 828-9
surfing 59 Kootenay National
tours 95‑6 Ville de Mont‑Tremblant
Eastern Shore 394 Park 749‑50 264‑6
travel to/from 121‑2
Lawrencetown Beach Lunenburg 357‑61, 358 vineyards
393 travel within 122‑3
Mistaken Point Auk Island Winery 493
Tofino 707 vegetarians 103 Ecological Reserve
walking tours 92, 92 Averill Creek 696
Swift Current 549‑50 482
Toronto Islands 115 Rideau Canal 194 Bear River Winery 367
swimming
tourist information 863 Upper Canada Village Black Hills Estate 731
Elora Quarry
Conservation Area 145 tours 872 214, 41 Blomidon Estate Winery
Upper St John River Valley 369
Fundy National Park 421 dogsledding 536
402‑4 Burrowing Owl Estate
Toronto 94 train travel 46‑53, 297, 324,
Winery 731
Sydney 390‑2 867, 872‑3, 48, 50 Upper Waterton Lake 623
CedarCreek Estate
Rockies Rail Route 48-9,
Winery 730
48, 51
T Rocky Mountaineer
V Cherry Point Vineyards
Tadoussac 300‑2 Val d’Or 331 696
565, 627
Tatamagouche 378‑9 Val Marie 550‑1 Church & State Wines
Trans‑Canada Highway 15,
tax 860 38, 38, 15 Val‑David 263‑4 731
892
vineyards continued Toronto 92, 92 Revelstoke 743 food 525‑7
Creekside Estate Winery Victoria 687, 687 Shubenacadie River 372 history 517
135 Ward’s Island 77 Whistler 672 medical services 529
Domaine de Grand waterfalls wild horses 634 shopping 529‑30
Pré 374 Athabasca Falls 597 wildlife 30, 843‑6 sights 517‑22
Flat Rock Cellars 135 Bow Falls 601 wildlife parks & reserves tourist information 529
Gaspereau Vineyards 374 Bracebridge Falls 163 Alberta Birds of Prey tours 522
I N D E X V -Z

Haywire Winery at Cameron Falls 805 Foundation 621 travel to/from 529
Okanagan Crush Avalon Wilderness
Pad 731 Grand Falls 405 travel within 529‑30
Helmcken Falls 758 Reserve 481 Witless Bay Ecological Re‑
Québec 270 Helen Schuler Nature
Magpie High Falls 183 serve 473, 480‑1, 473
Hester Creek 731 Centre & Lethbridge
Million Dollar Falls 786 Wolfe Island 208
Inniskillin 135, 731 Nature Reserve 621
Shannon Falls Provincial Wolfville 372‑5
Jost Winery 378 Inglewood Bird
Park 667 Sanctuary 579 wolves 198
Konzelmann Estate
Winery 135 Takakkaw Falls 748 Northern Lights Wolf women travelers 864
L’Acadie Vineyards 374 Virginia Falls 809 Centre 746 Wood Islands 445‑6
LaStella Winery 731 Weeping Wall 597 Shubenacadie Provincial work 864
Lightfoot & Wolfville 374 Waterton 623 Wildlife Park 375
Luckett Vineyards 374 Watson Lake 779‑80 Vermilion Lakes 601 Y
Mission Hill Family Wawa 182‑4 Wallace Bay National Yarmouth 365‑6
Estate 731 weather 24, 32‑6, see also Wildlife Area 378 Yellowknife 798‑805, 800
Newman Estate Winery individual regions wildlife‑watching 30 Yoho National Park 748‑9
446 websites 854 courses 535 Yukon Quest 784
Northern Lights Estate Wendake 292 Elk Island National Yukon River 783, 782
Winery 767 Westport 370 Park 574
Yukon River Quest 784
Peninsula Ridge Estates Whale Point 502 Prince Rupert 761
Yukon Territory 771‑94, 772
Winery 135 whales 845‑6 Ucluelet 710
accommodations 771
Quails’ Gate Winery 731 whale‑watching Vermilion Lakes 601
climate 771
Reif Estate Winery 135 Alert Bay 717 Williams Lake 757
food 771
Road 13 731 Baie Ste Catherine 300 Windsor 155‑7
highlights 772
Rossignol Estate Winery Brier Island 370 windsurfing 59
446 history 773
Campobello Island 411 wine 28, 850‑2
Rust Wine Co 731 tourist information 773
Chéticamp 385 wine regions 850‑2
Sandhill Wines 730 travel seasons 771
Forillon National Park Cape Blomidon 369
Sea Star Vineyards 722 travel to/from 773
317 Eastern Townships 851
Stratus 135 travel within 773
Neil’s Harbour 387, 388 Grand Pré 374
Summerhill Pyramid Pleasant Bay 386 Malagash Peninsula 378
Winery 730 Sidney 694 Montérégie 851 Z
Sunnybrook Farm Estate St Margaret Village 387 Niagara Peninsula 131‑3, ziplining
Winery 135 135, 850 Anchors Above Zipline
Tadoussac 301
Tawse Winery 135 North Pender Island 722 Adventure 381
Tofino 707
Vineland Estates Winery Nova Scotia 852 Calgary 580
Victoria 686
135 Corner Brook 505
Witless Bay Ecological Okanagan Valley 730‑1,
Waupoos Estates Winery 850 Elora 145
Reserve 480
202
wheat 532 Prince Edward County Montréal 245
Wayne Gretsky Estates 851
Whistler 669‑75, 670, 655 Peachland 736
Winery & Distillery 135
White Point 387 Prince Edward Island Sooke 696‑7
Wolfville 374 446
White River 183 Strathcona Provincial
visas 24, 863 Prince George 767
Whitehorse 773‑9, 774 Park 715
volunteering 864 Vancouver Island 696
white‑water rafting Thousand Islands 210
Wolfville 374 Whistler 672
Banff Town 603, 604
W Fernie 751
Wood Islands 446 zoos
walking, see hiking wineries, see vineyards Bird Kingdom 125
Fraser River Canyon 726
walking tours Winnie‑the‑Pooh 183 Calgary Zoo 579
Glacier National Park
Montreal 241, 241 746 Winnipeg 517‑30, 521, 524 High Park 88
Haines Junction 781 accommodations 523‑5 Polar Bear Habitat &
Kananaskis Country 591 children, travel with 522 Heritage Village 189
Map Pages 000 Lake Louise 609 entertainment 528‑9 Victoria Bug Zoo 683
Photo Pages 000 Lytton 727 festivals & events 523
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
893

Map Legend
Sights Information Routes
Beach Bank Tollway
Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway
Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary
Castle/Palace Internet Secondary
Christian Police Tertiary
Confucian Post Office Lane
Hindu Telephone Unsealed road
Islamic Toilet Road under construction
Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall
Jewish Other Information Steps
Monument Tunnel
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass
Ruin Beach Walking Tour
Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour
Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail
Taoist Lighthouse
Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International
Other Sight Oasis State/Province
Park Disputed
Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb
Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park
Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff
Diving Wall
Canoeing/Kayaking Population
Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek
Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River
Snorkeling Town/Village Canal
Surfing
Swimming/Pool Transport Water
Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Windsurfing BART station
Reef
Other Activity Border crossing

Sleeping
Boston T station Areas
Bus
Airport/Runway
Sleeping Cable car/Funicular
Camping Cycling Beach/Desert
Hut/Shelter Ferry
Cemetery (Christian)
Metro/Muni station
Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other)
Eating Parking
Glacier
Petrol station
Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat
Drinking & Nightlife Taxi
Park/Forest
Cafe Train station/Railway
Tram Sight (Building)
Entertainment Underground station
Sportsground
Entertainment Other Transport
Swamp/Mangrove
Shopping
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
in the courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to almost 30 Lonely
Planet titles. When not on the road, Anna calls London home.

Adam Karlin
Newfoundland & Labrador Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet
guidebooks, covering an alphabetical spread that ranges from the Andaman
Islands to the Zimbabwe Border. As a journalist, he has written on travel, crime,
politics, archeology and the Sri Lankan Civil War, among other topics. He has sent
dispatches from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!) and his essays and
articles have featured in the BBC, NPR and multiple nonfiction anthologies. Adam
is based out of New Orleans, which helps explain his love of wetlands, food and good music. Learn
more at http://walkonfine.com/ or follow on Instagram @adamwalkonfine.

Craig McLachlan
British Columbia, Saskatchewan, Yukon Territory Craig has covered destinations
all over the globe for Lonely Planet for two decades. Based in Queenstown, New
Zealand for half the year, he runs an outdoor activities company and a sake
brewery, then moonlights overseas for the other half, leading tours and writing
for Lonely Planet. Craig has completed a number of adventures in Japan and
his books are available on Amazon. Describing himself as a ‘freelance anything’,
Craig has an MBA from the University of Hawai’i and is also a Japanese interpreter, pilot, hiking
guide, tour leader, karate instructor, marriage celebrant and budding novelist. Check out www.
craigmclachlan.com

Korina Miller
New Brunswick Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been exploring the
globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and picking
up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies, an MA in Migration Stud-
ies and a diploma in Visual Arts en route. As a writer and editor, Korina has worked
on nearly 60 titles for Lonely Planet and has also worked with lonelyplanet.com,
BBC, the Independent, the Guardian, BBC5 and CBC, as well as many independ-
ent magazines, covering travel, art and culture. She has currently set up camp back in Victoria, soak-
ing up the mountain views and the pounding surf.

Liza Prado
Ontario Liza has been a travel writer since 2003, when she made a move from
being a corporate lawyer to travel writing (and never looked back). She’s writ-
ten dozens of guidebooks and articles as well as apps and blogs to destinations
throughout the Americas. She takes decent photos too. Liza is a graduate of Brown
University and Stanford Law School. She lives very happily in Denver, Colorado,
with her husband and fellow Lonely Planet writer, Gary Chandler, and their two kids.

Phillip Tang
Québec Phillip grew up on a typically Australian diet of pho and fish’n’chips be-
fore moving to Mexico City. A degree in Chinese- and Latin-American cultures
launched him into travel and then writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada,
China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. You can see more of his
writing at hellophillip.com, photos @mrtangtangtang and tweets @philliptang

Contributing Writer
Michael Grosberg researched and wrote about the Waterton Lakes National Park in Alberta.
the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban
landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Follow him on www.instagram.com/
regisstlouis.

Ray Bartlett
Alberta Ray has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea,
Mexico, Tanzania, Guatemala, Indonesia and many parts of the United States to
life in rich detail for top publishers, newspapers and magazines. His acclaimed
debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, set in Yucatán, was a Midwest Book Review 2016
Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished
Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, or contact
him for questions or motivational speaking opportunities via www.kaisora.com, his website. Ray
currently divides his time between homes in the USA, Japan and Mexico. Ray also wrote the Plan,
Understand and Survival sections.

Gregor Clark
Alberta Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curi-
osity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of countries
on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and
most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North Amer-
ica. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a
focus on Europe and the Americas. Titles include Italy, France, Brazil, Costa Rica,
Argentina, Portugal, Switzerland, Mexico, South America, Montréal & Québec City, France’s Best
Trips, New England’s Best Trips, cycling guides to Italy and California and coffee-table pictorials
such as Food Trails, the USA Book and the Lonely Planet Guide to the Middle of Nowhere.

Shawn Duthie
Ontario Originally from Canada, Shawn has been traveling, studying and working
around the world for the past 13 years. A love of travel merged with an interest in
international politics, which led to several years of lecturing at the University of
Cape Town and now working as a freelance political risk consultant specializing
in African countries. Shawn lives in South Africa and takes any excuse to travel
around this amazing continent.

Steve Fallon
Québec A native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve graduated from Georgetown
University with a Bachelor of Science in modern languages. After working for
several years for an American daily newspaper and earning a master’s degree
in journalism, his fascination with the ‘new’ Asia led him to Hong Kong, where he
lived for over a dozen years, working for a variety of media and running his own
travel bookshop. Steve lived in Budapest for three years before moving to Lon-
don in 1994. He has written or contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet titles. Steve is a qualified
London Blue Badge Tourist Guide. Visit his website on www.steveslondon.com.

Carolyn B Heller
Québec Carolyn has been a full-time travel, food, and feature writer since 1996,
writing for publications including LonelyPlanet.com, Forbes Travel Guide, Boston
Globe and Los Angeles Times, amongst others. Carolyn has also contributed to
50-plus travel and restaurant guides for Lonely Planet and other publishers. She’s
eaten her way across more than 40 countries on six continents, and when she’s
not traveling, you can find her running on the beach, in the theatre, or trying to
learn enough Mandarin to decipher menus on Chinese restaurant walls.

Anna Kaminski
Manitoba, Northwest Territories, Nunavut Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna
grew up in Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University of Warwick with
a degree in Comparative American Studies, a background in the history, culture
and literature of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an enduring love of Latin
America. Her restless wanderings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok
and her flirtation with criminal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London,
Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share
Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS
Brendan Sainsbury
British Columbia Born and raised in the UK in a town that never merits a mention
in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), Brendan spent the holidays of his youth
caravanning in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty until he was 19.
Making up for lost time, he’s since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes pre-
carious existence as a writer and professional vagabond. His rocking chair mem-
ories will probably include staging a performance of A Comedy of Errors at a
school in war-torn Angola, running 150 miles across the Sahara Desert in the Marathon des Sables,
and hitchhiking from Cape Town to Kilimanjaro with an early, dog-eared copy of Lonely Planet’s
Africa on a Shoestring. In the last 11 years, he has written over 40 books for Lonely Planet.

Oliver Berry
Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Québec Oliver is a writer
and photographer from Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more
than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall to the Cook Islands, and has
worked on more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to many
newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet magazine. His writing has
won several awards, including the Guardian Young Travel Writer of the Year and
the TNT Magazine People’s Choice Award. His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com.

John Lee
British Columbia Born and raised in the historic UK city of St Albans, John grew
up in London, gorging on the capital’s rich diet of museums and galleries. Slowly
succumbing to the lure of overseas exotica, he arrived on Canada’s West Coast
in 1993 to begin an MA in Political Science at the University of Victoria. Regular
trips home to Britain ensued, along with stints living in Tokyo and Montreal,
before he returned to British Columbia to become a full-time freelance writer in
1999. Now living in Vancouver, John specializes in travel writing and has contributed to more than
150 different publications around the world. You can read some of his stories (and see some of
his videos) online at www.johnleewriter.com. John has worked on around 25 Lonely Planet books,
including Canada, British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies, Western Europe and Vancouver.

Regis St Louis
Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that
fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign
dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and
a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across
much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles,
covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited


CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-
14th edition – April 2020 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the
ISBN 978 1 78701 363 6 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum
© Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 2020 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in Singapore
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and
Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as
retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass
email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions
on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with
our content.’

You might also like