©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Romania
& Bulgaria
Maramure¢
p166

Moldavia & the

Bucovina
Transylvania Monasteries
Cri¢ana & p76 p183
Banat
p149

ROMANIA Bucharest The Danube Delta

p34 & Black Sea
Wallachia Coast p211
p60

The Danube & Northern Plains

p427 BULGARIA
Sofia
p296 Veliko Târnovo & Black Sea Coast
Central Mountains p395
p359
Plovdiv & the
Southern Mountains
p321

Mark Baker, Steve Fallon, Anita Isalska

 PLAN
YOUR TRIP
Romania &
Bulgaria Map. . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Romania &
Bulgaria’s Top 17. . . . . . . . . 8
Welcome to Romania. . . . 18
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 22
If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 26
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 31
SALAJEAN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
ON THE ROAD
BUCHAREST . . . . . . . . 34
Around Bucharest . . . . . . 58
Snagov Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
WALLACHIA . . . . . . . . 60
Ploieşti. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Târgovişte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Piteşti. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Curtea de Argeş. . . . . . . . . 68
Craiova. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Drobeta-Turnu Severin . . . . 73
TRANSYLVANIA. . . . . 76
Prahova Valley. . . . . . . . . . 77
Sinaia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Bucegi Mountains . . . . . . . 82
Predeal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Braşov . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Around Braşov . . . . . . . . . 92
Bran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Poiana Braşov. . . . . . . . . . . 94
Zărnesţi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Hărman & Prejmer. . . . . . . . 97
Saxon Land . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
Sighişoara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
Fortified Saxon
Villages. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Făgăraş Mountains. . . . . . . 106
WOMEN IN ROMANIAN
TRADITIONAL DRESS
 Romania Contents
Sibiu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Around Sibiu. . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Székely Land. . . . . . . . . . 118
Sfântu Gheorghe . . . . . . . . 118
Miercurea Ciuc. . . . . . . . . . 120
Gheorgheni . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Odorheiu Secuiesc. . . . . . . 123
Odorheiu Secuiesc
to Târgu Mureş . . . . . . . . . . 124
Târgu Mureş . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Southwest
Transylvania . . . . . . . . . . 129
Alba Iulia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Deva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Retezat Mountains. . . . . . . 134
Northern
Transylvania . . . . . . . . . . 136
Cluj-Napoca . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Turda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Huedin Microregion. . . . . . 144
Apuseni Mountains . . . . . . 145
Bistriţa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
CRIŞANA
& BANAT . . . . . . . . . . 149
Banat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Timişoara. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Crişana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Oradea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Băile Felix. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Arad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
MARAMUREŞ . . . . . . 166
Baia Mare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Around Baia Mare . . . . . . . 171
Ţara Chioarului. . . . . . . . . . 171
Sighetu Marmaţiei. . . . . . . 172
Mara Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Săpânţa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Iza Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Vişeu & Vaser Valleys . . . . 181
Borşa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
MOLDAVIA &
THE BUCOVINA
MONASTERIES . . . . 183
Moldavia. . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
Iaşi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
Târgu Neamţ & Around. . . 193
Piatra Neamţ. . . . . . . . . . . . 194
Ceahlău National Park . . . 198
Bucovina . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Suceava. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Bucovina Monasteries. . . 204
Rarău Massif. . . . . . . . . . . 209
THE DANUBE DELTA &
BLACK SEA COAST. . . 211
Danube Delta . . . . . . . . . 213
Tulcea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Sulina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Sfântu Gheorghe . . . . . . . . 219
Black Sea Coast
& Littoral. . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Constanţa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Mamaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
Vama Veche. . . . . . . . . . . . 227
UNDERSTAND
Romania
Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
The Dracula Myth. . . . . . 242
Outdoor Activities
& Wildlife. . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
Visual Arts
& Folk Culture. . . . . . . . . 249
The Romanian
People. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
The Romanian
Kitchen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 258
Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 273
Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496
Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 511
SPECIAL FEATURES
The Dracula Myth. . . . . . 242
Outdoor Activities
& Wildlife. . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
Visual Arts
& Folk Culture. . . . . . . . . 249
The Romanian
Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
 PLAN
YOUR TRIP
Romania &
Bulgaria Map. . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Romania &
Bulgaria’s Top 17. . . . . . . . . 8
Welcome to Bulgaria. . . . 280
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . 284
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . 286
Month by Month. . . . . . . 288
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
Regions
at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . 293
ARSENIE KRASNEVSKY / SHUTTERSTOCK©
ON THE ROAD
SOFIA . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
Around Sofia. . . . . . . . . . 317
Boyana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317
Vitosha Nature Park . . . . . 318
PLOVDIV & THE
SOUTHERN
MOUNTAINS . . . . . . . 321
Rila Mountains . . . . . . . . 323
Rila Village . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
Rila Monastery. . . . . . . . . 324
Borovets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327
Pirin Mountains . . . . . . . 329
Blagoevgrad . . . . . . . . . . . 329
Bansko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
Melnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337
Bulgarian Thrace . . . . . . 339
Plovdiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339
Rodopi Mountains . . . . . 352
Chepelare . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352
Pamporovo . . . . . . . . . . . . 354
Smolyan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355
Devin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357
VELIKO TÂRNOVO
& CENTRAL
MOUNTAINS. . . . . . . 359
Shumen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361
 Bulgaria Contents
Madara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364
Veliko Târnovo. . . . . . . . . . 365
Around Veliko Târnovo. . . . 374
Dryanovo Monastery. . . . 376
Tryavna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377
Etâr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379
Lovech . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380
Troyan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382
Hisar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383
Karlovo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385
Kazanlâk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386
Shipka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
Stara Zagora. . . . . . . . . . . . 391
Sliven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392
VELIKO TÂRNOVO,
BULGARIA P365
BLACK SEA
COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 395
Southern Coast. . . . . . . . 397
Burgas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397
Sozopol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403
Primorsko . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408
Tsarevo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409
Sinemorets . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410
Central Coast . . . . . . . . . 411
Pomorie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411
Nesebâr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412
Northern Coast. . . . . . . . 416
Varna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416
Sveti Konstantin . . . . . . . 423
Balchik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424
THE DANUBE
& NORTHERN
PLAINS. . . . . . . . . . . 427
Vratsa & Around . . . . . . . 429
Chiprovtsi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430
Belogradchik . . . . . . . . . . . 431
Ruse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433
Rusenski Lom
Nature Park. . . . . . . . . . . . 438
Lake Srebârna
& Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440
Silistra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441
UNDERSTAND
Bulgaria
Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444
History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446
Outdoor Activities
& Wildlife. . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
Visual Arts,
Craft & Music . . . . . . . . . 462
The Bulgarian
People. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 466
Bulgarian Wine. . . . . . . . 468
Bulgarian Cuisine. . . . . . 470
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 474
Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 482
Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 489
Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496
Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 511
SPECIAL FEATURES
Outdoor Activities
& Wildlife. . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
Visual Arts,
Craft & Music. . . . . . . . . 462
Bulgarian Wine. . . . . . . . 468
Bulgarian Cuisine. . . . . . 470
 R #
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 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
29

Itineraries
UKRAINE

HUNGARY

MOLDOVA

ROMANIA

Sighişoara
•
#
É •
#
Viscri É
Sibiu •
# # Braşov
•
É

Transfăgărăşan Bran •
#
•
# R•# Sinaia
Road
•
#
Poienari Bucegi
Mountains
Citadel É
É

_ BUCHAREST
#
SERBIA
Black
Sea
BULGARIA

1A0YS Transylvania Castles & Cities

D

Transylvania is Romania’s best-known region and arguably its most beautiful. It’s filled
with rocky mountaintops, haunting castles and lively historic cities. This classic route is
designed for travellers for whom this region is the prime focus. The tour starts in Bucha-
rest, where most international flights arrive.
Hire a car in Bucharest or hop a train northward toward the mountains, stopping in
Sinaia for a couple of nights and checking out Peleş Castle. From here, take a cable car
into the Bucegi Mountains for a hike.
Drive or take a bus north to spend a couple of nights in Braşov, a lively hub with a
cobbled centre. Use Braşov as a base for a day trip to the infamous Bran Castle.
If you have a car, spend a night in the Saxon village of Viscri before continuing
to Sighişoara, where the dramatic citadel offers creature comforts and Dracula’s
birthplace.
Head southwest for a night or two in the cultural hub of Sibiu. If you have a car (and it’s
summer), drive south along the breathtaking Transfăgărăşan road. South of the pass,
stop at the ‘real Dracula’s castle’ of Poienari Citadel, before returning to Bucharest.
30
Sighetu
Suceviţa Danube Delta & Painted Monasteries
Săpânţa •
# #Marmaţiei
•
Monastery Classic Romania
Budeşti

É
•
#
•
# •# Ieud

É
Baia Mare • Arbore Monastery• # Suceava
É
# •# # •
Surdeşti Voroneţ •

É
#
Monastery # Neamţ
•
# Monastery
Agapia •
É

•
#
Monastery •
#
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s

Iaşi
É
Văratec MOLDOVA
Monastery
#Cluj-Napoca
•

Sighişoara ROMANIA
É

•
#

É
# Viscri
• UKRAINE
É

•
#
Sibiu # Braşov
•
•
#
Bran Castle

•
#
Tulcea É É
É

•
#
Sfântu
Gheorghe

BUCHAREST #
_

2 KS Classic Romania 1 Danube Delta &

WEE
Romania is a deceptively large country,
with physical barriers (such as high moun-
tain passes) that make it difficult to get
around easily. This tour highlights the most
popular province, Transylvania, but adds
neighbouring regions, including capital
Bucharest, to make the most of your time.
Spend the first two nights in Bucha-
rest, taking in the Palace of Parliament
as well as museums and restaurants. Take
the train or drive to Braşov, and spend
at least a day or two. Use it as a base for
visiting Bran Castle and the Saxon town
of Viscri.
Head north to Sighişoara and its his-
toric citadel. Spend the night before head-
ing south to Sibiu, an eye-catching former
Saxon stronghold.
From here, head north through Cluj-
Napoca, a big university town with an
abundance of awesome cafes and clubs.
Push northward to the city of Baia
Mare or to Sighetu Marmaţiei, to use
as a base for visiting the unspoilt region
of Maramureş. Don’t miss the Merry Cem-
etery in Săpânţa or the pretty wooden
churches in Budeşti, Surdeşti and Ieud.
K
WEE Painted Monasteries
Eastern Romania receives the fewest
number of visitors, yet possesses some of
the country’s most important natural and
cultural attractions. For the former, look
no further than the serene Danube Delta,
a sprawling protected wetland that’s per-
fect for birders. Northwest of here are the
cultural wonders of the Bucovina painted
monasteries.
The tour starts in Tulcea, the gateway
to the Danube Delta. Stay overnight in
Tulcea and enter the delta via boating day
trips. If you’ve got more time, skip Tulcea
and grab a passenger ferry to deeper, more
scenic Sfântu Gheorghe.
After birdwatching and boating, return
to Tulcea and take the bus or drive north
to Iaşi, Moldavia’s cultural hub and larg-
est city. Spend a day taking in the sights.
Use Iaşi as a base to explore the Agapia,
Văratec and Neamţ monasteries.
From here, it’s a short hop to the re-
gional capital of Suceava, which has good
hotels and a number of companies offering
tours to the nearby painted monaster-
ies. Don’t miss the Arbore, Voroneţ and
Suceviţa monasteries.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
511

Map Legend
Sights Information Routes
Beach Bank Tollway
Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway
Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary
Castle/Palace Internet Secondary
Christian Police Tertiary
Confucian Post Office Lane
Hindu Telephone Unsealed road
Islamic Toilet Road under construction
Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall
Jewish Other Information Steps
Monument Tunnel
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass
Ruin Beach Walking Tour
Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour
Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail
Taoist Lighthouse
Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International
Other Sight Oasis State/Province
Park Disputed
Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb
Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park
Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff
Diving Wall
Canoeing/Kayaking Population
Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek
Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River
Snorkelling Town/Village Canal
Surfing
Swimming/Pool Transport Water
Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Windsurfing Border crossing
Reef
Other Activity Bus

Sleeping
Cable car/Funicular Areas
Cycling
Airport/Runway
Sleeping Ferry
Camping Metro station Beach/Desert
Monorail
Eating Parking
Cemetery (Christian)
Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other)
S-Bahn/Subway station
Drinking & Nightlife Taxi
Glacier
Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat
Cafe Train station/Railway
Park/Forest
Tram
Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building)
Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station
Sportsground
Other Transport
Shopping Swamp/Mangrove
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above
appear on the maps in this book
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London,
Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share
Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS
Mark Baker
Mark is a freelance travel writer with a penchant for offbeat stories and forgotten
places. He’s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the
Czech capital, Prague. He mainly writes travel guides on Eastern and Central
Europe for Lonely Planet as well as several other leading travel publishers, but
finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are too remote or too
quirky for the guides. He also contributes to publications such as the Wall Street
Journal and National Geographic Traveler. Prior to becoming an author, he worked as a journalist
for the Economist, Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among other organisations. When
he’s not travelling, these days he’s teaching Central European history and journalism at Anglo-
American University in Prague or out riding his bike. He has a master’s degree in International
Affairs from Columbia University in New York.

Steve Fallon
A native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve graduated from Georgetown Univer-
sity with a Bachelor of Science in modern languages. After working for several
years for an American daily newspaper and earning a master’s degree in jour-
nalism, his fascination with the ‘new’ Asia led him to Hong Kong, where he lived
for over a dozen years, working for a variety of media and running his own travel
bookshop. Steve lived in Budapest for three years before moving to London in
1994. He has written or contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet titles. Steve is a qualified Lon-
don Blue Badge Tourist Guide.

Anita Isalska
Anita is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter whose work for Lonely Planet
has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles, and plenty of plac-
es in between. After several merry years as an in-house editor and writer – with
a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance be-
tween the UK, Australia and any Balkan guesthouse with a good wi-fi connection.
Anita writes about travel, food and culture for a host of websites and magazines.
Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited

CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-
7th edition – Jul 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the
ISBN 978 1 78657 543 2 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum
© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
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