Getting Started Clock Repair-Dual-Translated

Getting Started in Clock Repair
For Fun or Profit
By
William J. Bilger
Dedicated to my loving wife and best friend, Joyce.
Illustrations by Russell Turpin ME
Published MMVI
Published by The Blue Parrot Publishing Company, Columbia SC USA.

Copyright 2006 William J. Bilger. All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise,
without the prior written permission of the author.
Printed in the United States of America.
i
Getting Started
Table of Contents
1. Getting Started
2. How Does a Clock Work?
3. How is the Center Wheel Made to Rotate Once Every Hour?
4. Disassembly & Reassembly
5. What’s Next?
6. Appendix
ii
Getting Started
easily understood explanation of
C
lock repair can be a very
rewarding and satisfying how a mechanical clock works,
hobby, both intellectually how to take one apart and more
and financially. Most people enter importantly, how to put it all back
into the hobby because of their together again so that it will run.
interest in things mechanical and
are satisfied repairing their own That is the purpose of this book.
clock collection and those of This book is not intended as an in-
friends. However, once exposed to depth treatise on Horology. Instead
the hobby they soon learn that it is it is intended to give the reader a
easy to earn $200.00-$300.00 per fundamental understanding of how
weekend if so desired repairing a mechanical clock works. But
clocks. As rewarding as it can be it more importantly it will allow the
can also be a very intimidating reader, after reading this book, to
experience for the beginner trying dismantle and reassemble a typical
to get started in it. Part of the 8-day spring driven time only
problem stems from the fact that pendulum clock movement with
there are so many different styles complete confidence. If the reader
and types of clocks to choose from follows the instructions contained
that the beginner is hard pressed to within this book they will be able
know where to begin. If he or she to achieve the exhilarating
picks up one of the more readily experience of taking apart and
available clock repair books they putting back together again a
are soon disappointed since the complex mechanical device. The
book most likely doesn’t cover the significance of this achievement
type of clock they are interested in. cannot be over stated. This
Furthermore the book more than milestone is the confidence-
likely goes into an in-depth building foundation of hobby
explanation of repair procedures clock repair upon which
that uses specialized tools and/or everything else is built. Once the
outdated techniques. Meanwhile, beginner knows that, yes, they can
all the beginner wants and needs do this, then, everything else just
from their first clock book is an falls into place one step at a time.
1
Getting Started
Required Equipment:
As with all new endeavors there is some required equipment to be had
before you get started.
1. A pair of pliers.
2. A length of baling wire or similar 18 gauge wire approximately 8
inches long obtainable from a hobby shop or hardware store.
3. A 6-inch broomstick handle or dowel to make your own wind
down key.
4. A pan to put the small parts in.
5. An 8-day spring driven time only pendulum clock movement.
Most households will already have items 1-4 lying about. Item 5 will have to
be bought from a clock supply house. It is highly recommended that the
reader have the clock movement “in-hand” while reading this book. This
movement can be purchased from one of the clock supply houses listed in
the appendix. You can send away to the addresses listed in the appendix for
a parts catalogue from the different supply houses or you can use the web
address also provided in the Appendix to purchase the movement online.
WARNING
Do not attempt to disassemble the
clock movement until you have read
the section on how to safely do it. The
mainspring contains a significant
amount of power that can cause bodily
harm or do severe damage to the
movement if not properly handled!
2
It is recommended that you order your

movement as soon as possible so you can have
it ready and “in-hand” when you get to the part
of the book where you disassemble and
reassemble the movement. The purpose in
ordering the clock movement from a supply
house instead of using any movement lying
about is two fold. First, the clock movements
sold by the supply houses are in running order.
This is very important, because after you
dismantle the movement and reassemble it, it
should still run. If you start with a
problematical clock movement and it doesn’t run after you disassemble and
reassemble it, you won’t know if it is because of something you did or did
not do or a fault inherent in the movement. This can be highly discouraging
and this is not the time to get discouraged. You need to know that you can
put it back correctly and that it will run just fine. The only way to be sure of
that is to start with a movement that is in working condition. Secondly, this
book uses as its model and describes in explicit detail an 8-day spring driven
time only pendulum clock movement. It would be too confusing for the
beginner to use a different style clock movement with this book. It would be
like repairing a Mercedes Benz using a Land Rover manual: similar but
decidedly different.
Terminology:
As always when starting a new endeavor the beginner needs to learn the
terminology used in that endeavor. Clock repair is no different; it too has its
own vocabulary that needs to be understood in order to simplify
explanations. Become very familiar with these terms, as they are the basic
vocabulary used in most other clock repair books that you will use later in
your clock repair career.
Anchor: An anchor shaped piece of steel that is oscillated to and fro

by the pendulum to release a tooth of the escape wheel at each swing.
Arbor: The axle or shaft upon which a clock wheel or pinion is

mounted.
3
Getting Started
Bob: The weight on the end of a pendulum.
Cannon Pinion: A pinion on the center wheel arbor that drives the
motion works by meshing with the minute wheel.
Cannon Tube: Sometimes referred to as the hour tube. A long tube to

which the hour wheel is affixed. The hour hand is friction fitted onto the
cannon tube. The cannon tube and hour wheel slide co-axially over the
Center wheel arbor.
Center Wheel: The wheel attached to the Center Wheel Arbor.
Center Wheel Arbor: A long arbor that protrudes through the front
plate. The minute hand is attached to one end of this arbor. The center wheel
and cannon pinion are mounted on this arbor.
Chime Train: A series of wheels and pinions designed to play a

melody on the quarter hours.
Click: A horological term for the pawl of a pawl and ratchet

mechanism.
Click Spring: The spring that keeps pressure on the click to keep it
engaged in the ratchet.
Cock: A metal strip or bar that contains a pivot hole for an arbor such
as an escape wheel cock.
Count Wheel Striking: One method of counting or controlling the

striking of a clock. Rack and snail is the other method used.
Crutch: An arm that connects the escapement to the pendulum and

transmits power from the escapement to the pendulum.
End Shake: Freedom of movement, end to end of an arbor between

the plates.
Entry Pallet: The pallet first reached by an advancing tooth of the

escape wheel.
4
Escape Wheel: The last wheel in the time train. This wheel powers the
escapement.
Escapement: A device designed to change the rotating force of the

escape wheel into vibratory motion to either a pendulum or a hairspring
balance.
Exit Pallet: The last pallet to be engaged by a tooth of the escape

wheel.
First Wheel: See Main Wheel.
First Wheel Arbor: See Winding Arbor.
Fourth Wheel: The fourth wheel in the train.
Fourth Wheel Arbor: The arbor that carries the fourth wheel and
pinion.
Gears: A gear in clockwork is called a wheel if it has more than 20

teeth. If it has 20 or fewer teeth then it is called a pinion, in which case its
teeth are called leaves.
Great Wheel: See Main Wheel
Great Wheel Arbor: See Winding Arbor
Hairspring Balance: A wheel, in conjunction with a hairspring, which

controls the rate at which the escape wheel rotates. See pendulum. A
pendulum is another method of doing the same thing.
Horology: A broad term having anything to do with watch or

clockmaking and repairing. More specifically the study of time and
timekeeping.
Hour Wheel: A wheel of the motion works to which a long tube,

called the cannon tube, is attached. The cannon tube and hour wheel slide
co-axially over the center wheel arbor. The hour hand is friction fitted onto
the cannon tube. The minute pinion drives the hour wheel.
5
Getting Started
Intermediate Wheel: See Second Wheel.
Lantern Pinion: A very functional but cheaper pinion that resembles a

squirrel cage.
Leaves: Teeth on a pinion, teeth on a wheel are called teeth.
Main Wheel: Sometimes called the First wheel or the Great wheel.
Usually the largest wheel in the train. The mainspring is attached to this
wheel.
Minute Pinion: This is a part of the motion works. It is part of a

compound gear with the minute wheel. They are both mounted on the
motion works arbor. The minute pinion drives the hour wheel.
Minute Wheel: This is part of the motion works. It is mounted on the

motion works arbor with the minute pinion. The cannon pinion drives the
minute wheel.
Motion Works: A combination of gears that produces a 12:1 gear ratio

to drive the hands of a clock.
Motion Works Arbor: The arbor to which the minute wheel and
minute pinion are attached.
Pallet: That part of an anchor that the teeth of an escape wheel

impinge upon.
Pendulum: A shaft with a bob on one end that swings back and forth
to control the rate at which an escape wheel rotates. See Hairspring balance.
A hairspring balance is another method of doing the same thing.
Pendulum Rod: The rod holding the pendulum bob.
Pillar Posts: The posts or rods that hold the clock plates together.
Pinion: A gear in clockwork with 20 or less leaves.
6
Pivot: The end of an arbor that fits into the plates of a clock
movement.
Plates: A front and back plate that form the frame for the clockwork.
Rack & Snail Striking: One method of counting or controlling the

striking of a clock. Count wheel striking is the other method used.
Ratchet Wheel: A wheel mounted on the winding arbor that meshes

with the click to keep the mainspring from unwinding.
Rating Nut: The nut below the pendulum bob used to alter the length
of a pendulum by screwing the bob up or down.
Second Wheel: The second wheel in the train. Sometime known as the
intermediate wheel.
Second Wheel Arbor: The arbor that carries the second wheel and
pinion.
Strike Train: A Series of wheels and pinions designed to strike a gong

or bell on the hour and sometimes on the half hour.
Suspension Spring: A thin flat spring attached to a pendulum rod from

which the pendulum is hung.
Third Wheel: The third wheel in the train.
Third Wheel Arbor: The arbor on which the third wheel and pinion is
mounted.
Time Train: A series of wheels and pinions designed to show the time.
Train: A series of wheels (gears) connected together.
Winding Arbor: Sometimes referred to as the First Wheel Arbor or the

Great Wheel Arbor. The Main Wheel is mounted on this arbor. Also
mounted on this arbor is the mainspring. When this arbor is turned the
mainspring is wound. There isn’t any pinion mounted on this arbor.
7
Getting Started
Wheel: In clockwork a gear with more than 20 teeth.
Styles & Types: balance can control the rate of the

All mechanical clocks can be escapement. The clock movement
divided into types such as wall- used in conjunction with this book
mounted clocks, mantel clocks or is an 8-day time only (one train)
tall case (grandfather) clocks. The spring driven pendulum clock
clock repairer however isn’t movement. If you learn the basics
concerned with the style of clock of disassembling and reassembling
so much as he is with the this clock movement you will have
movement inside of it. Clock a firm foundation upon which to
movements themselves can be build your clock repair career.
further subdivided into from where
they derive their power. Some are Clock Trains:
weight driven like the cuckoo As stated in the terminology
clock or the Vienna regulator. section trains are a series of gears
Others are spring driven like most (called wheels or pinions in
mantel or shelf clocks. Another clockwork) connected together to
method of classifying clocks is by do a specific function. All clocks
how many trains it has. You can have at least one train. This is the
tell how many trains a clock has by time train or as it is sometimes
counting the number of weights referred to, the going train. The
hanging from it or by counting the time train is the series of wheels
number of winding holes in the and pinions that make the clock
face of the dial. There is still one hands rotate and show the time on
more common way of classifying the face of the dial. This type of
clocks and that is how they control clock will have either one spring
the rate of speed of the or one weight to power it.
escapement. Either a pendulum or
a balance spring can do this. So, to A two weight or two winding hole
sum it all up, a clock can be either clock usually has two trains. One
a wall mounted, a shelf or mantel train is usually the time train or
clock or a tall case clock. It can going train. The other train is
also be either weight driven or usually the strike train. It is the
spring driven and it can have one, strike train that sounds the hours
two or three trains. Furthermore, and if so designed, the half hours
either a pendulum or a hairspring on either a gong or a bell. Please
8
note the word usually was used movement clocks that have a time
when describing a two-train clock. train and a dual-
This is where there is an exception purpose chime/strike train. Both of
to the rule about counting the these types of clocks are not that
number of winding holes in common and most likely won’t
relation to the number of trains. come across your workbench.
Some clocks have two springs to However if you should encounter
power one time train. There are one or both of these please be sure
also a few two-train chime you have the proper experience
before you tackle them.
FIG 2. Time & Strike Movement

and should be left alone until the
In addition to showing the time reader gets more experience
and striking the hours and half- working with one and two-train
hours, a 3-train clock chimes a clock movements.
melody on the quarter hours. A
three-train clock movement is Now might be a good time to
getting a little bit more complex recap. A one-train clock shows the
time, a two-train clock shows the
9
Getting Started
time and strikes the hours and are beyond the scope of this book
maybe the half hours, a three-train and won’t be mentioned again. But
clock shows the time, plays chimes even though a two or three-train
on the hour and quarter hours and movement is a bit more complex it
strikes the hours and maybe the is not outside the range of a
half hours. In the two and three- hobbyist’s ability. After mastering
train clock movements the the principles of a one-train clock
different trains are separate and movement the reader will surely be
independent trains, however they able to expand his or her
are linked together and triggered knowledge and skill level to
by a series of ingenious levers and undertake the repair of a two-train
cams. movement and then move on to the
more complex three-train
Since the two and three-train clock movement.
movements are more complex they
FIG 3. Three Train Wall Clock
10
How Does A Clock Work?
E verything a clock is designed to do all starts with the minute hand, or

more correctly the center wheel arbor on which the minute hand is
attached. The minute hand is intended to rotate once every hour, and the
arbor on which the minute hand is attached to, along with any other wheels
or pinions attached to that arbor would also of necessity rotate once every
hour. This is accomplished by the clever integration of five basic mechanical
elements all working together. These are:
1. The driving force or power
2. The transmitting section or the gear train
3. The escapement
4. The controlling mechanism that is either a pendulum or a hairspring
balance
5. The motion works.
These will all be discussed and explained in the order in which they are
listed.
Driving Force or Power:

There are two methods of powering
a mechanical clock. One is by
weight(s) and the other is by springs
or mainsprings as they are more
properly referred to in clockwork.
Each train in a clock will have its
own weight or mainspring. The
weight is the more preferred
method of powering a clock as it
applies a constant force to the gear
train as gravity pulls it down. In a
weight driven clock the weight is
FIG 4. Loop End Mainspring
11
How Does a Clock Work?
attached to one end of a cable or spring gets weaker and weaker the
chain. The other end of the cable clock goes slower and slower
or chain is wrapped around a drum causing problems for anyone
attached to the main wheel. The needing to rely on the accuracy of
weight is allowed to hang down the clock.
and as gravity pulls the weight
down the drum rotates powering Mainsprings are made from alloy
the movement. Dealing with a steel that is formed into a coil. At
weight driven clock is a relatively rest, a mainspring will spread out
easy matter; you can just remove over a considerable area with quite
the weight(s) when necessary just a bit of space between the coils.
by unhooking them and then Winding the spring and pulling the
removing the cable(s) or chain(s). coils together creates the power in
a mainspring. The natural tendency
Mainsprings on the other hand can of the mainspring is to resist this
apply an erratic, uneven force to winding and return to its natural
the gear train as the spring relaxed and expanded condition.
unwinds. A mainspring usually This natural tendency to unwind
exerts the most power when it is exerts a turning force that powers
fully wound and its power slowly the train of wheels that it drives.
dissipates as it unwinds. As the
Warning
Do not attempt to disassemble the clock
movement until you have read the section
on how to do it. The mainspring contains
a significant amount of power and can
cause bodily harm or do severe damage
to the movement if not properly handled.
There are two types of mainsprings from dirt or dust. One end of the
in use for mechanical clocks. One mainspring is attached to a clip on
style is the barrel type where the the inside of the barrel. The other
spring is inserted inside of a barrel end is attached to the winding
or cylinder. In use the spring is not arbor. As the winding arbor is
visible because the barrel has a turned with the winding key the
cover on it that protects the spring mainspring is wound. As the
12
mainspring unwinds it rotates the two exceptions to this that will be

barrel. There are teeth around the noted when they are encountered.
periphery of the barrel that mesh
with the time train and power it. Gears - the driver and driven -
must be proportional in size and
The second style of mainspring in teeth count to each other. If gear A
use is the loop-end. See FIG 4. is 3 inch and the pinion (gear B) it
This style is used in most meshes with is ½ inch, then the
American clock movements and is smaller pinion must have one-sixth
used on the 8-day spring driven as many teeth as the larger wheel
time only pendulum clock since it is one-sixth its size.
movement that is being used in
conjunction with this book. In the Gears rotate in opposite directions
loop-end version one end of the to each other and at speeds
mainspring has a loop on it that fits proportional to their size. That is to
over one of the pillars of the clock say that if gear A rotates once,
movement. The other end is gear B will rotate six times in the
attached to the winding arbor. The opposite direction because of the
loop-end mainspring winds and 6:1 gear ratio. If gear C rotates
unwinds just like the barrel once, gear D will rotate 2 times in
mainspring; the only difference is the opposite direction because of
that the loop-end is exposed while the 2:1 gear ratio. Please not that
the barrel mainspring is covered. the reverse is true. If gear B was
the driver and rotated once, gear A
Transmitting Section or would only rotate one sixth of a
turn because of the 1:6 gear ratio.
Gear Train: Likewise, if gear D was the driver
A gear in horology is called a and rotated once, gear C would
wheel unless it has twenty or fewer only rotate one half of a turn due
teeth, in which case it is called a to the 1:2 gear ratios. See FIG 5.
pinion. The teeth of a pinion are
called leaves. In summation, gears in clockwork
must be proportional in size and
In clockwork, unlike other teeth count to each other and they
mechanical applications, the wheel rotate at speeds at that same
is generally the driver while the proportion to each other.
pinion is the driven. This means
that the wheel powers the pinion
and causes it to rotate. There are
13
FIG 5
The gears used in clockwork are

mostly compound gears. That is a
wheel and pinion are firmly attached
on the same arbor and if one turns the
other turns at the same speed and in the
same direction. For example, the main
wheel meshes with a pinion on the 2nd
arbor. Also on the 2nd arbor is the
second wheel. The 2nd wheel then
meshes with a pinion on the 3rd arbor.
The wheel on the 3rd arbor meshes
with the next pinion. This meshing
continues on for as many arbors,
wheels and pinions as there are in the
time train, ending at the escape wheel.
FIG 6
When gears are connected in a series they are called a train. The number of
rotations of the last wheel in the train in relation to one revolution of the first
wheel in the train is equal to the product of all the teeth in the wheels in the
train divided by the product of all the leaves in the pinions in the train. (This
formula is demonstrated in Chapter 3). Wheel size in a train usually goes
from larger to smaller as you go up in the train, starting from the bottom of
the train with the Main wheel, which is usually the largest up to the last
14
wheel which is usually the smallest. This arrangement allows to wheels to

mesh properly without interfering with each other.
FIG 7. 8-Day Time Only Gear Train
The Main wheel, sometimes called the Great Wheel or First wheel, is as is
most often the case the largest wheel in the train. Notice that the mainspring
is also on the same arbor as the Main wheel. The Main wheel meshes with
the Second wheel pinion and drives it. The Second wheel meshes with and
drives both the Third wheel pinion and the Center wheel. The Center wheel
is so called because it is in the center of the clock movement. The minute
hand is attached to the Center wheel arbor.
15
The Third wheel meshes with and drives the Fourth wheel pinion. The
Fourth wheel meshes with and drives the Escape wheel pinion. The Escape
wheel is on the same arbor as the escape wheel pinion and is always the last
wheel in the train.
FIG 8
Fig 8 is a side view of how the gears mesh. The 2nd, 3rd, and 4th arbors both
have compound gears on them. That is, there are two gears on each arbor, (a
wheel and a pinion), and if one turns they both turn.
Two interesting things happen to the time train as you go up in the train from
the largest wheel to the smallest wheel. The first thing is that the last wheel
in the train rotates very much faster than the first wheel in the train. Why
this is so was explained earlier and the results demonstrated in FIG 7.
The second thing that happens is that the last wheel in the train has a lot less
torque, or turning power then the first wheel in the train. This phenomenon
is easily explained through the law of levers, which is all that the gears really
16
are, with the arbor being the fulcrum, the pinion being the short arm and the
wheel being the long arm of the lever.
FIG 9
For example, lets take a bar, A, and place under it a fulcrum, B, near the end,
C. Then let’s apply a force of 5 pounds at D. If DB is five times the length of
CB, then the resultant force at C would be five times greater or 25 pounds.
The reverse is also true; if we applied a force of 25 pounds at C then the
resultant force at D would be 5 pounds. Let’s further assume we have a
second lever E, which is impinged upon at G by D with the 5 pounds of
force. If the distance from HF were 4 times the distance of GF then the
resultant force at H would be 1.25 pounds. This is how the power of the
mainspring is diminished through the law of levers. This is why you can stop
the last wheel in the time train with your little pinky; meanwhile it is almost
17
impossible to stop the first wheel or mainwheel by grasping it in your whole

hand.
FIG 10
If we were to attach these levers to a clock’s arbor the result would be like
Fig 9. The arbor is the fulcrum, the long arms of the lever are the wheel’s
teeth, and the short arms of the lever are the pinions leaves.
Notice that the arbors are named for their function or the wheels attached to
them, i.e., the Third wheel arbor or Escape wheel arbor. The pinions are also
named for the wheels they are associated with. The Third wheel pinion is so
called because it is on the Third wheel arbor with the Third wheel even
though it is the Second pinion counting up from the bottom.
The four-wheel English clock train is illustrated only to demonstrate a

simple clock train. However even a cursory glance at the eight-day spring
driven time only pendulum clock movement that is being used in
conjunction with this book will reveal some major differences. One
difference is that there are more wheels in the American 8-day time only
movement. There is an Intermediate wheel, also known as the Second wheel,
added to the train that meshes with both the Third wheel pinion and the
Center wheel. Notice as the Second wheel rotates (counter clock-wise in this
movement), the Third wheel and Center wheel are both driven in a
clockwise direction. The Second wheel just transfers power between the
Center wheel and the Third wheel. And, except for rotating in the same
direction the Center wheel and Third wheel act as if they were meshed
directly together.
But probably the most significant difference between the two trains is that if
you removed the Center wheel from the American movement the clock
would still run, while, if you removed it from the English movement the
clock could not run. This difference isn’t too important now but as you
become more experienced it will become critical in your understanding of
how to calculate the beats of a time train to determine the correct length of a
18
pendulum for a particular clock. It is usual in most of the English, French

and German movements (yes, there are national differences displayed in
clock movements) to have the center wheel in the time train. It is also usual
for the center wheel to be outside of the time train in American clocks.
Although the American movement may seem more complicated it is usually
the easier to repair.
FIG 111
Escapements:
The escapement is the heart of the clock. It is that part of the clock that
allows stored power to dissipate in a controlled manner. Its function is to
keep the pendulum swinging by way of the crutch, which is an extension of
the oscillating pallets. The two main types of clock escapements can be
divided into either a recoil escapement or a deadbeat escapement. Each one
of these has their own subdivisions. A detailed analysis of the different types
of escapements is beyond the scope of this book; suffice to say however, if
the reader intends to pursue clock repair in any depth he or she will have to
study the different types of escapements and become an expert in their
repair.
1
Numbers refer to the number of teeth on a wheel or number of leaves on a pinion.
19
The type of escapement we are interested in here and the one used on our
model clock is the famous bent-strip anchor recoil type. It is well suited for
the job since it is notorious for working under adverse conditions. All of the
things that would stop a more delicate escapement seemingly have little or
no effect on this robust escapement.
The anchor contains the

pallets and also the crutch
that is attached to it. See
FIG 12. The anchor
assembly is situated
outside of the movement
on the front plate. There is
a small hole in the anchor
saddle that allows it to be
placed over the anchor pin
on the anchor pin support.
The anchor assembly is
then kept in position by the
anchor retaining spring. In
American clock circles the
FIG 12
anchor is sometimes referred to as the “verge”. However this is really an
incorrect term as the name verge really refers to an early escapement type.
The anchor is really just an oscillating device whose sole purpose is to
interrupt the time train. It does this by inserting a pallet face between teeth of
the escape wheel, the last wheel in the time train. The escape wheel comes to
a stop as it tries to push the pallet face out of its way. The anchor then begins
to rotate or oscillate in the opposite direction. This releases the escape wheel
tooth it has blocked and allows the escape wheel to continue to rotate. As the
anchor continues to rotate in the opposite direction the pallet face on the
opposite end of the pallet blocks another escape wheel tooth, again stopping
the escape wheel. The escape wheel resists this stopping and pushes the
pallet face away causing it to rotate or oscillate back in its original direction.
This action releases the escape wheel tooth that has just been blocked. This
rocking back and forth of the anchor and the stopping and releasing of
escape wheel teeth goes on for as long as the clock continues to run. Each
time an escape wheel tooth pushes on a pallet face a slight force or impulse
20
is transmitted to the pendulum via the crutch. This slight force or impulse is
enough to keep the pendulum swinging back and forth.
The crutch is the medium through which the pendulum controls how fast the
anchor will oscillate back and forth. This regulates the rate at which the
escape wheel is blocked and then released thereby controlling the rate at
which the time train operates.
The rate at which a pendulum swings back and forth is solely dependent
upon it length. The shorter the pendulum is the faster it swings. The longer
the pendulum is the slower it swings. Since the pallet releases an escape
wheel tooth every time the pendulum swings back and forth, the faster the
pendulum swings the faster a tooth on the escape wheel is blocked and
released and the faster the time train rotates. The slower the pendulum
swings back and forth, the slower the pallet oscillates, the slower an escape
wheel tooth is blocked and released, and the slower the time train runs.
To more fully describe the operation of the escapement the

terms entry and exit pallets must be understood. In FIG 13
an escape wheel tooth has just impinged on one of the
pallets. This is the same as position 1 FIG 15.
FIG 13
When this tooth drops off of this pallet it will enter the
space between the two pallets. Therefore this pallet is
called the entry pallet. In FIG 13 another escape wheel
tooth is about to drop off of the opposite pallet. This is
the same as position 5 FIG 15. When it does so the
tooth will have exited the space between the pallets.
Therefore that pallet is known as the exit pallet. The
terms entry and exit pallets are used quite extensively
when describing the operation of an escapement.
FIG 14
21
While the clock is running the escape wheel is rotating and the pendulum is
swinging back and forth. FIG 15 shows the operation of the escapement. To
explain the operation we need to pick a staring spot so we will pick position
1. At position 1 an escape wheel tooth is impinging on the entry pallet. This
momentarily stops the escape wheel from rotating. Meanwhile the pendulum
is continuing to swing to the left. In position 2 the pendulum has swung a
little further to the left. The escape wheel tooth has fallen off of the entry
pallet, and while doing so has given the entry pallet a little impulse that will
be transmitted to the pendulum. Note that in this position the escape wheel is
free to rotate and the clock is running down. In position 3 the pendulum is
still continuing to swing to the left catching an escape wheel tooth on the
exit pallet. This again stops the escape wheel from rotating. In position 4 the
pendulum has swung still further to the left forcing the exit pallet deep into
the space between the escape wheel teeth. This action causes the escape
wheel to momentarily recoil or turn back in the opposite direction. As the
escape wheel recoils it tries to rotate the entire train back in the opposite
direction. For this brief instance of change in direction of the escape wheel,
this is one of the two exceptions in clockwork where the pinions become the
drivers and the wheels are driven. In position 5 the pendulum has started to
swing back to the right. The escape wheel tooth on the exit pallet is getting
ready to fall off and when it does so it will give a little impulse to the pallet
which will be transmitted to the pendulum. In position 6 the pendulum is
still swinging to the right. The escape wheel is free to rotate. In position 7
the pendulum has continued further to the right catching an escape wheel
tooth on the entry pallet. This again stops the escape wheel from rotating. In
position 8 the pendulum has swung still further to the right forcing the entry
pallet deep into the space between the escape wheel teeth. This action again
causes the escape wheel to momentarily recoil. The pendulum will now start
to swing back to the left, starting the sequence all over again that will
continue for as long as the clock will run.
It is the stopping and starting of the escape wheel by the anchor that
regulates the power supplied to the train from the mainspring. It is the length
of the pendulum that controls the pace at which this power is consumed.
22
FIG 15
Controlling Mechanisms: Pendulums and Balance

Springs:
Pendulums and balance springs are the two methods of controlling the rate at
which a clock runs. We will concentrate on pendulums in this discussion and
ignore balance springs for two reasons. First, and foremost, the clock
movement we are using as our model movement in conjunction with this
book uses a pendulum. Secondly, only a small minority of clocks utilizes a
balance spring.
The pendulum was invented around 1657 and like many inventions there is
some controversy over who actually invented it. Nowadays Galileo Galilei is
most often credited with inventing the pendulum while Christiaan Huyghens
is usually recognized as the first to apply it to a clock.
23
Ever since it was first

invented, other inventers,
tinkerers, and
clockmakers have all tried
to make improvements to
it. Over the years the
pendulum has undergone
extensive testing and
experimentation. Its
design, shape, materials,
etc., have all been
experimented with in the
hopes of removing any
inherent errors. There
have been many scholarly
dissertations written
about the pendulum;
many written by
mathematicians and
physicists seemingly to be
read only by other
FIG 16
mathematicians and physicists. If you enjoy that sort of thing then the theory
of the pendulum can be an interesting albeit complex subject to study.
A pendulum in its most basic form appears to be a very simple device. After
all, most of the time they are nothing more than a rod with a bob attached to
one end. However appearances can be very deceiving. The pendulum is a
very complex device that is almost a precision instrument in its own right.
Pendulums are divided into two categories: the theoretical and the practical.
The theoretical pendulum is an imaginary pendulum that exists only in a
mathematician’s or physicist’s mind. Although it is imaginary, the
theoretical pendulum is the only one we can use to make the calculations
necessary to understanding the pendulum.
A theoretical pendulum consists of a weight represented by a point

suspended by a weightless flexible thread. The point from which it is
suspended and about which it swings is called the center of suspension. The
24
bob, represented by a point because it has no dimension, is the center of

oscillation. The length of a theoretical pendulum is measured from its center
of suspension to the center of oscillation. This length is called the effective
length of a pendulum.
The practical pendulum is the one in use on a clock. It has a suspension

spring, a rod and a bob. Since it has all this extra mass that needs to be
accounted for, the center of the bob is not necessarily the center of
oscillation. The longer end of the rod is trying to swing slower then the
upper portion of the rod, while the bob is trying to swing slower than both of
them. The end result is that this difference in the time of swings has to be
“averaged out” and resolved into one center of oscillation. Because of all
this mass the center of oscillation moves upward from the center of the bob
towards the rod. The amount of movement varies depending on the amount
of mass under consideration. The length of a practical pendulum is its actual
length. The length of a practical pendulum is always longer than a
theoretical pendulum for the same clock movement. When the length of a
pendulum is discussed it is always in terms of its effective length and not its
actual length.
What makes the operation of a pendulum so complex is that in reality it is a

falling body and as such it is subject to the laws of acceleration. This is hard
to visualize when you watch a pendulum swinging back and forth in small
arcs on a clock. However, if you were to raise the pendulum to a horizontal
position and then let it go, you would see that it is indeed a falling body,
although restrained in its downward movement by the rod.
As a pendulum swings back and forth it follows a circular path. The longer
the arc of swing the longer the pendulum will take to swing back and forth.
However, for practical purposes it is almost impossible to discern this. As
will be demonstrated later it will appear there is no practical difference in the
time of swing for swings of longer or shorter arcs for pendulums of the same
length.
25
Huygens discovered that

if a pendulum swung
through a cycloidal curve
the time of the swing
would be the same
regardless of the length
of swing. In the early
years of clockmaking
there have been some
attempts to make a
pendulum follow a
cycloidal curve but they
have all been abandoned.
Around 1720 George

Graham noticed that the
first four degrees (2
degrees either side of the
vertical) of swing for
both the circular arc and
cycloidal curve were
almost identical. He then
proceeded to invent the
deadbeat escapement.
The deadbeat escapement
eliminated the recoil in
the escapement, and it
also allowed the
pendulum to swing in a
much shorter arc very
close to the cycloidal
curve.
FIG 17
It is the length of a pendulum that determines how fast or slow a pendulum

will swing back and forth. A shorter pendulum swings faster than a longer
26
pendulum. From Table 1 you will see that for every different time train
combination there is one very specific effective pendulum length.
The clock movement we are using as a demonstration model has a effective

pendulum length of 11.0132 inches, meanwhile the practical pendulum
supplied with the movement is approximately 13 inches long. To make the
clock keep good time the length of the practical pendulum has to be adjusted
using the rating nut until the effective length of the pendulum is at the
required length. Notice when you insert the suspension spring into the slot of
the stud a small portion of the spring is held above the slot by the dimple in
the spring. The spring will flex somewhere below the stud. The center of
suspension, or the point where the effective length of the practical pendulum
is measured from, is at the point of flexure. Since the center of suspension of
the practical pendulum is where the spring flexes, and the center of
oscillation is somewhere above the center of the bob, the practical length of
the pendulum is adjusted by the rating nut until the effective length of the
pendulum coincides with the required effective length. See FIG 16.
Clock Trains with Pendulum Lengths

Vibrations
Third Escape Length of
Center Third Escape of
Wheel Wheel pendulum
Wheel Wheel Wheel Pendulum
Pinion Pinion in inches
per min.
128 120 16 30 16 60 39.14
68 34 8 30 8 68 30.49
75 60 8 32 8 75 25.05
86 64 8 30 8 86 19.06
80 72 8 30 8 90 17.39
108 100 12 32 10 96 15.28
80 80 8 30 8 100 14.09
105 100 10 30 10 105 12.78
84 78 8 2 8 109.2 11.82
96 76 8 30 8 114 10.82
96 80 8 30 8 120 9.78
90 84 8 32 8 126 8.87
84 78 7 30 7 133.7 7.9
120 71 8 32 8 142 6.99
84 77 7 35 7 154 5.94
84 78 7 39 7 173.8 4.65
Table 1. A Representative Table of Different Clock Trains and Pendulum Lengths
27
Some of the inherent factors affecting the accuracy of pendulums are:

temperature, barometric pressure, escapement and circular error.
1. Temperature error: The length of the pendulum will increase as
the temperature increases and contract as the temperature decreases. This
will cause the pendulum to slow down or speed up.
2. Barometric Pressure: A change in barometric pressure will
increase or decrease friction on the pendulum as it swings back and forth.
This also will cause the pendulum to speed up or slow down.
3. Escapement error: This covers many things. Friction, the
viscosity of the oil, the kind of escapement, dirt & dust, the pendulum
receiving its impulse either side of the vertical, all contribute to escapement
error.
4. Circular error: A pendulum swings through an arc and takes
longer to swing through a long arc than a smaller arc. To be accurate the
pendulum should swing through a cycloidal curve. If a pendulum swung
through a cycloidal curve, the time of the swing would be the same
regardless of the length of swing. This equality of time of swing experienced
regardless of length of swing in a cycloidal path is known as isochronism.
The difference in time of a pendulum of the same length swinging in a
circular arc or a cycloidal curve is called circular error.
Fortunately, as a clock repairer there isn’t too much you can do about these
errors except to be aware of them. You don’t have to delve too deeply into
the complexities of the pendulum to use it intelligently. As a repairer you
have to deal with the clock movement and case as presented to you. The best
that can be done is to adjust the pendulum rate for the condition and location
that the clock will run in. At this point in your clock-repairing career all you
need to know about pendulums is:
1. The shorter the pendulum the faster it swings.
2. The longer the pendulum the slower it swings.
3. To make a clock run faster shorten the pendulum.
4. To make a clock run slower lengthen the pendulum.
5. Weight per se has no effect on the speed of a pendulum.
6. The length of a pendulum is cited in its theoretical length not its
actual length.
7. There should be no wobble in the pendulum as it swings.
8. For a given pendulum length the longer the arc of swing, the
faster the pendulum swings, the shorter the arc of swing the slower the
pendulum swings.
28
An interesting experiment to perform concerning pendulums is to attach a

fine thread or thin cord to as high a location as can be found. A ceiling
fixture or a doorway frame is an ideal choice. For demonstration purposes
we’ve chosen 4 ft and 8 ft as our pendulum lengths to experiment with.
True, there are no clock pendulums this length but the exaggerated
movement will be easier to see and measure. Keep in mind that this is a
rather coarse experiment lacking scientific equipment and laboratory
conditions. However it should suffice for the purpose of demonstrating the
properties of a pendulum.
First, a little explanation is in order.

The circular arc that the pendulum swings
through is measured in degrees. Fig 18 shows
two circular arcs of thirty degrees. A
pendulum swinging through the inner arc
would have a shorter linear distance to
travel than a pendulum swinging through the
longer outer arc but they both would travel
the same angular distance.
FIG 18
The first experiment will be conducted at the 4 ft length. Attach a weight
and make sure the weight is as symmetrical as possible so it won’t wobble or
introduce other aerodynamic problems into your experiment. Once you have
the cord set up with an appropriate weight, procure a yardstick and a watch
with a second hand.
Next, carefully pull the weight 3 inches to one side and then release the
weight. The 3 inches to one side at this length represents a circular arc of
approximately 5º; 2 ½º either side of the vertical. You are looking for two
things here. First, make a note of how far to the opposite side the pendulum
swings. Put a marker on the floor or wall denoting this spot and mark this
spot “A”. Next, you want to count the number of times the pendulum swings
back and forth in one minute. We will call this experiment #1.
A vibration or beat is when the pendulum swings in one direction from one
side to the other. An oscillation is when the pendulum swings from one side
to the other and then back again to the starting point. Count the vibrations; it
is easier than counting the oscillations. Remember the difference between
vibrations and oscillations, as you will run across these words again in your
29
clock-repairing career. And in speaking of vibrations and beats versus

oscillations, many writers fail to explain whether they are referring to one
swing or a swing back and forth again. So when reading other texts be sure
to understand this difference or you will have trouble understanding what the
author means.
Next, pull the weight 6 inches to one side and release it. The 6 inches at this
length simulates a 10º circular arc, 5º either side of the vertical. Again, note
how far to the opposite side that the pendulum swings to. Put another marker
here and call it “B”. Also count the number of vibrations that the pendulum
swings. Call this experiment #2. You should note two things after this
experiment. First, when you compare marker “B” with marker “A” you will
see that the pendulum swinging from 6 inches swings through a longer arc
than the pendulum swinging from 3 inches. This should be no surprise: this
is common sense since you started with one arc twice as long as the other.
However you may be surprised to find the vibration count for experiment #1
and #2 to be the same.
This will surprise a lot of people because it doesn’t seem to be a logical

solution. Most people would assume that a pendulum swinging through a 6-
inch arc would take longer than a pendulum swinging through a 3-inch arc.
It also contradicts what we said earlier. Earlier we said that indeed a
pendulum takes longer to swing through a longer than a shorter arc. What is
happening here is that the pendulum is actually taking longer to transit the
longer arc but the difference in time is so minute that we cannot discern it
with the naked eye.
The reason you can’t discern the difference in the time of swing with the
naked eye is because the difference is so slight. According to computations
presented by R. Giebel in Das Pendel the difference in the time of swing
between 5º semi-arc or a 10º full arc would be about 41.14 seconds per
twenty-four hours. There are 86400 seconds in a twenty-four hour period so
that would be 41.14/86400; hardly anything that can be perceived in an
experiment of one-minute duration without sophisticated equipment.
What causes the speed of the pendulum to be almost the same through the
two different arcs is acceleration. The pendulum is a falling body and as
such is subject to the laws of gravity and acceleration. A pendulum swinging
through a longer arc has more time to accelerate and therefore to go faster
than a pendulum swinging through a shorter arc. The further a pendulum
30
falls, the greater is its aceleration and hence its speed. This is why a
pendulum swinging through a long arc swings faster then a pendulum of the
same length swinging through a shorter arc.
The next two experiments will be conducted with a pendulum length of 8

feet. Do the same experiments as before, only these times pull the weight
back 8 inches and 16 inches respectively. We will call these experiments #3
& #4. The 8-inch and 16 inch will duplicate the 5º and 10º circular arcs used
in experiments #1 & #2. As before note how far each pendulum swings to
the other side and mark them accordingly for later comparison. Also count
the number of vibrations for a minute. You should have the same results as
in experiment #1 & #2. That is, that one swings through a longer arc than the
other, but more importantly, the number of vibrations for both the 8-inch and
16-inch swing will be the same. There is one final and important conclusion
to be drawn here. Note that the number of vibrations for experiment #1 & #2
are higher than experiments #3 & #4, meaning the pendulum in experiments
#1 & #2 are swinging faster.
These experiments prove two things:

1. For a pendulum of a certain length, the time of swing appears to
be the same regardless of the length of arc it swings through.
2. The length of the pendulum is what dictates the time of the
swing: the shorter the pendulum the faster it swings, the longer the
pendulum the slower it swings.
There is another aspect of the pendulum that causes a lot of

misunderstanding as it relates to the time of swing. That is, that weight
added to or removed from a pendulum does not increase or decrease the time
of swing unless the weight increases or decreases the effective length of the
pendulum (remember it is the effective length and only the effective length
that dictates the time of swing through its arc). What adding or removing
weight does, depending on where it is added to or removed from, is to either
increases or decreases the effective length of the pendulum. Any increase or
decrease in the effective length of a pendulum will change the time of swing
of the pendulum. It is important to note that it is not the weight itself that
causes the increase or decrease in the speed of the pendulum but the
resulting lengthening or shortening of the effective length of the pendulum.
The misunderstanding arises when one adds or subtracts weight to or from a

pendulum. It is almost impossible to do so without affecting the effective
31
length of the pendulum and the pendulum will speed up if its effective length
is shortened or slow down if its effective length is increased. Therefore
when one adds or subtracts weight from a pendulum they invariably attribute
any change in the speed of the pendulum to the weight because that is
palpable, that is, it can be seen and measured. Meanwhile the real cause,
which is the change in the effective length of the pendulum, is ignored
because it is intangible and not easily recognized for what it is.
This is where a second contradiction concerning pendulums arises. We said

earlier that adding or removing weight per se from a pendulum does not
change the length of time of the swing through the arc. However adding or
removing weight from a pendulum does change its momentum, and any
change in a pendulums momentum will cause the length of the arc to change
and hence its time of swing through the arc. But as noted earlier, the change
in time of swing is so small as to be imperceptible.
To prove that weight added to or removed from a pendulum doesn’t

noticeably increase or decrease the speed of the swing of the pendulum we
will redo the prior four experiments only this time with more weight. Try to
increase the weight a significant amount, at least two to three times the
amount used in the previous experiments.
Lets start again with the 4-foot pendulum length. This will duplicate
experiments #1 & #2 but only with more weight. Add the appropriate weight
and pull the weight to 3 inches to one side and let it go. Note how far the
pendulum swings to one side. It should swing further than it did in
experiment #1 at marker “A”. Also count the number of vibrations for one
minute. Next pull the same weight 6 inches to one side and let it go. As
before, note the length of swing. It should exceed marker “B” in experiment
#2. Also as before count the number of vibrations per minute. You should
have the same number of vibrations for these last two swings as you did in
the earlier experiments #1 & #2 because the pendulum length is the same.
Redo this experiment at the 8-foot length. This will duplicate experiments #3
& #4 only with more weight. Pull the weight 8 inches to one side and let it
go. As before, note the length of swing. It should exceed marker “C”
obtained in experiment #3. Also count the number of vibrations per minute.
Next pull the weight 16 inches to one side and let it go. Again, noting its
swing, it should exceed marker “D” obtained in experiment #4. Count the
number of vibrations per minute. The number of vibrations for the last two
32
experiments should be the same and they should also be the same as in
experiment #3 & #4 because the pendulum lengths are the same.
These last four experiments prove two things:

1. It is the length of the pendulum that dictates the speed of swing.
A shorter pendulum will swing faster than a longer one.
2. Weight added to a pendulum does not increase the speed of
swing. The same is true if you remove weight.
It is recognized that for the everyday repair and operation of a common

pendulum clock the above has no practical application. However, it is hoped
that by removing any misinformation or misunderstanding concerning the
pendulum you will become a better repairperson. Also, as you progress in
your clock repair career and possibly work on more precise timepieces such
as regulators and astronomical clocks you will have a better understanding
of the role of the pendulum.
A more in-depth explanation of the pendulum is beyond the scope of this

book. More information can be obtained from Ward Goodrich’s Modern
Clock, Donald de Carle’s Practical Clock Repairing and A. L. Rawling’s
Science of Clocks & Watches.
Motion Works:
Usually in American clocks the motion works is between the clock plates.
On most foreign clocks the motion works is on the front of the clock. The
motion works is a series of gears that produces a 12:1 gear reduction. This
causes the minute hand to revolve 12 times while the hour hand only
revolves once.
On the 8-day spring driven time only pendulum clock movement used in
conjunction with this book the motion works utilizes two arbors; the motion
works arbor and the Center wheel arbor. The motion works arbor is to the
left of the center wheel arbor. The minute wheel and the minute pinion are
mounted on the motion works arbor. The minute wheel and minute pinion
are a compound gear meaning they are permanently fixed together and as
one turns the other also turns.
On the Center wheel arbor are the cannon pinion and center wheel. The
cannon tube with the hour wheel attached slides co-axially over the center
33
wheel arbor. The hour wheel rides on top of the cannon pinion. If you
examine the part of the hour wheel that rides on top of the cannon pinion
you will notice a small lip or edge. This lip or edge is to keep the amount of
mating surfaces to a minimum thus reducing friction. The cannon tube and
hour wheel turn independently of the center wheel arbor.
FIG 192
The cannon pinion drives the motion works by meshing with the minute
wheel, which turns the minute pinion which is meshed with the hour wheel,
turning it and the hour hand which is friction fitted to the cannon tube.
The Center wheel is powered and turned clockwise by the Second wheel in
the time train. Since the minute hand is attached to the squared end of the
center wheel arbor it too turns clockwise. As the center wheel arbor rotates
this causes the cannon pinion to rotate in the same direction. The cannon
pinion meshes with the minute wheel and turns it counterclockwise. The
minute pinion, since it is permanently fixed to the minute wheel also turns
counterclockwise. The minute pinion meshes with the Hour wheel fixed to
the cannon tube and drives it clockwise. The hour hand, which is friction
fitted onto the cannon tube then also turns clockwise.
The pinions in the motion works are the second exception in clockwork to
the rule that wheels drive pinions. In motion work the opposite is true;
pinions drive wheels.
On the center wheel arbor you will notice a coiled spring and clutch plate
assembly pressing against the backside of the center wheel. This spring and
clutch plate assembly holds the center wheel firmly against the cannon
pinion. The center wheel is not permanently fixed to the center wheel arbor
but is free to rotate about the arbor. The cannon pinion however, is
2
The center pinion is mislabeled. It should read cannon pinion.
34
permanently affixed to the center wheel arbor, and as the cannon pinion
turns so does the center wheel arbor and vice versa.
FIG 20
Without this spring and clutch plate assembly it would be impossible to

reset the hands of the clock when necessary. The spring and clutch plate
assembly exerts sufficient friction against the center wheel to turn the center
wheel arbor during normal operation. Remember, the second wheel drives
the center wheel in normal operation, and the center wheel being held tight
against the cannon pinion, causes the cannon pinion and the center wheel
arbor to rotate.
When it becomes necessary to reset the minute hand the clutch plate allows
the center wheel arbor to turn by overcoming the friction between the center
wheel and the cannon pinion. Be sure to complete the center wheel exercises
in chapter 4 for a complete understanding of the function of the spring and
clutch plate assembly.
35
In the 8-day spring driven time only clock movement we are using as a
model there are 30 teeth in the minute wheel and 32 teeth in the hour wheel.
There are also 10 leaves in the cannon pinion and 8 leaves in the minute
pinion. Dividing the product of the number of teeth in the wheels by the
product of the number of leaves in the pinions will give the gear ratio.
(30 X 32) ÷ (10 X 8) = 12
Hence, as the minute hand revolves once every hour, the hour hand will only
revolve 1/12th of a revolution. Or to put it another way, for every 12
revolutions of the minute hand, the hour hand will only revolve once.
There are three important things to note about the motion works:
1. It produces the 12:1 gear reduction of the minute hand to the
hour hand.
2. The minute hand and hour hand both revolve in the same
direction.
3. The pinions are driving the wheels, unlike the other pinions in
the movement that are driven.
36
How is the Center Wheel Made to Rotate

Once Every Hour?
A s stated in the last chapter, everything a clock does is based on the

Center wheel rotating once every hour. The question then becomes
how is that accomplished? The short answer is that it is all-dependent upon
the length of the pendulum. However it takes some simple calculating to
determine just what is the proper length of a pendulum for each time train.
The length of the pendulum is based on how fast the escape wheel rotates
per hour. To start the calculations we have two givens: 1. The number of
leaves and teeth in the train’s wheels and pinions; 2. The center wheel must
rotate once every hour.
Using our 8-day time only movement as an example, if the center wheel is to
rotate once every hour (1 revolution per hour or 1 RPH) then the 3rd wheel
must rotate 3.25 times per hour since there is a 3.25:1 gear ratio between the
center wheel and the 3rd wheel pinion. (The 2nd wheel can be ignored for
this calculation since it just transfers power between the center wheel and
the 3rd wheel.) Then, because there is a 5.71:1 gear ratio between the 3rd
wheel and the 4th wheel pinion, the 4th wheel must rotate at 18.5714 RPH if
the 3rd wheel rotates at 3.25 RPH. Following this line of thought, and
continuing to move upward in the gear train, we will find another 5.71:1
gear ratio between the 4th wheel and the escape wheel pinion. Since the 4th
wheel rotates at 18.5714 RPH then the escape wheel pinion and the escape
wheel that is on the same arbor must rotate at 106.12244 RPH. Refer to FIG
7.
The above was just shown for illustration purposes only. An easier way to
calculate how fast the escape wheel rotates is to use the formula mentioned
on page 17: the number of rotations of the last wheel in the train in relation
to one revolution of the first wheel in the train is equal to the product of all
the teeth in the wheels in the train divided by the product of all the leaves in
the pinions in the train.
(26 X 40 X 40) ÷ (7 X 7 X 8) = 41600 ÷ 392 = 106.12244 RPH
By regulating the speed of the last wheel in the time train, the escape wheel,
the speed of the Center wheel and the Center wheel arbor with the minute
37
How is The Center Wheel made to Rotate Once Every Hour?
hand attached is controlled. This insures that the correct time will be shown
and the clock will be neither fast nor slow. The device used to regulate and
insure the proper RPH of the escape wheel is the pendulum in conjunction
with the escapement. The pendulum, by swinging back and forth causes the
escapement to oscillate, releasing one escape wheel tooth at a time. This
causes the tick and the tock heard in clock movements.
The faster the pendulum swings back and forth the faster the escape wheel
teeth are released and the faster the escape wheel rotates. The faster the
escape wheel rotates the faster the whole train rotates and the faster the clock
runs. Of course the slower the pendulum swings back and forth the slower
the escape wheel teeth are released and the slower the escape wheel rotates.
The slower the escape wheel rotates the slower the whole time train rotates
and the slower the clock runs.
In clockwork it is imperative to have the pendulum swinging back and forth

at just the right rate that will release the escape wheel teeth, one at a time,
and allow the escape wheel to rotate at just the right RPH, in this particular
movement 106.12244 RPH. Since it has been noted earlier that it is the
LENGTH of the pendulum that determines how fast it will swing back and
forth it is obvious that just any old pendulum won’t do.
The trick then is to find a pendulum of just the right length that will swing
back and forth at just the right speed to release the escape wheel teeth at just
the proper rate to maintain the required escape wheel RPH. This is easily
done by converting the escape wheel RPH into the number of “tick-tocks”
per hour. The “tick-tock” is caused every time an escape wheel tooth
impinges on a pallet. This is called different things in different clock repair
books. One popular term used is vibrations since each time an escape wheel
tooth impinges on a pallet a vibration is transmitted to the pendulum.
Another popular term is “beats”. “Beats” is the same thing as vibrations and
is counted in either beats per hour or beats per minute. Beats is the term that
will be used throughout this book.
The calculation is as follows. The escape wheel RPH is multiplied by the

number of escape wheel teeth, in this case (106.12244 X 32). The product of
the escape wheel RPH times the number of escape wheel teeth is then
multiplied by 2 since each escape wheel tooth will impinge once on both
pallets (once on the entry pallet and again on the exit pallet). This answer
gives the beats per hour.
38
(106.12244 X 32 X 2) = 6791.83616
Then the beats per hour (BPH) are divided by 60 to give the beats per
minute (BPM).
6791.83616 ÷ 60 = 113.1972693
Finally the BPM are squared (113.1972693² = 12813.62178) and divided
into a constant of 141120. The answer gives you the theoretical length in
inches for the pendulum required for that time train.
(141120 ÷ 12813.62178) = 11.0132
The theoretical length of the pendulum for the 8-day spring driven time only
pendulum clock movement used in conjunction with this book is a little
more than 11 inches.
Please note that the actual length of the pendulum supplied with the clock
movement is approximately 13 inches from the top of the suspension spring
to the bottom of the rating nut. The difference between the theoretical and
actual length of the pendulum is depicted in FIG 16.
So far in this chapter we have only concentrated on the center wheel and the
wheels above it in the train. We have discussed how these wheels determine
the timekeeping of a clock. Up until now there has been no mention of the
two wheels below the center wheel and more importantly what is their
function.
The function of the two wheels below the center wheel, the main wheel and
the second wheel, is to determine how long a clock will run on one winding
of the mainspring. This is calculated as follows.
The main wheel has 84 teeth and drives the second pinion of 8 leaves. The
second wheel has 60 teeth and meshes with the center wheel of 26 teeth.
Refer back to FIG 7. Using the formula from page 17.
(84 X 60) ÷ (8 X 26) = 24.23
This tells us that for every revolution of the main wheel the center wheel
will revolve 24.23 times. Since the center wheel revolves once every hour
then for every complete revolution of the main wheel the clock will run
24.23 hours. This is an 8-day clock so we want the center wheel to revolve
192 times (24 hours X 8 days = 192 hours) on one winding so it can make a
39
complete 8-day run. If the center wheel revolves 24.23 times on one
revolution of the main wheel then 192 divided by 24.23 shows the winding
arbor would have to be wound 7.9240 times to allow a run of 8 days. This is
accomplished by having a mainspring long enough between its wound state
and unwound state to allow 7.9 windings of winding arbor.
Now, for demonstration purposes only lets assume a third wheel with 60
teeth and a pinion of 8 leaves is inserted between what in now the main
wheel and the second wheel. See FIG 21. Also let’s assume we are using the
same mainspring and this will still allow 7.9 turns of the winding arbor. The
question then is, how long will this clock run for? The calculations are as
follows.
(84 X 60 X 60) ÷ (8 X 8 X 26) = 181.730
This tells us that for every revolution of the main wheel the center wheel
will revolve 181.730 times. It also tells us that it will take the main wheel
181.730 hours to make one revolution. If we were to wind the winding arbor
7.9 times then the clock would run for 1435.66 hours. This would produce a
clock that would run for approximately 60 days.
One of the main points to realize from this demonstration is that although the
length of time the clock would run for has been changed from 8 days to 60
days, the length of the pendulum would not have been affected due to the
insertion of the new gear.
This example is only to demonstrate what determines how long a clock will
run for. However it is not too far fetched. 60-day clocks have been
manufactured and someday one might come across your workbench. If one
ever does come to you for repair you will know what is the purpose of the
extra gear in the movement.
Calculating how long a weight driven clock will run for is a little bit more
complicated since you have to take into account the diameter of the winding
arbor and the length of the cord or chain that the weight is attached to.
40
FIG 21
41
Notes
42
Disassembly & Reassembly:
Warning
Do not attempt to disassemble the movement
until you have read the section on how to do it.
The mainspring contains a significant amount
of power and can cause bodily harm or severe
damage to the movement if not properly
handled.
Before we can start the actual disassembly of the movement there are 4 more
steps we need to accomplish first. These are:
1. Inspect and Test the Movement
2. Make a Let Down Key
3. Make a Sketch
4. Let Down the Mainspring
Inspecting and Testing the Movement:

Hopefully when you get to this portion of the book your clock movement
will have already arrived from the parts dealer. When you receive your
spring driven 8-day time only clock movement, carefully take it out of the
box and inspect it. Make sure you have everything you are supposed to have.
Along with the clock movement you should have a suspension rod with
spring, a pendulum bob, an hour and minute hand and a wind up key. Look
closely at the end of the Center wheel arbor. Is there a nut screwed onto the
threaded end of the Center wheel arbor? If so remove it and put it in your
parts bin. This is the nut that keeps the minute hand on the Center wheel
arbor. If the nut is not screwed onto the end of the Center wheel arbor check
to see if it is with the minute and hour hand.
Take the movement in your hand and study it closely. Although this is a
brand new movement and there shouldn’t be any damage to it, you want to
treat it as if it just came into your shop for repairs. You want to get in the
habit of checking movements for damage as you disassemble them.
Discovering damage upon reassembly just delays the repair process and cost
you time and money. Look at the movement from the front, back and sides.
43
Disassembly & Assembly
Check out the front plate. Look for any unused holes in the front plate. If
you find any mark them with a magic marker or some such marker. This
mark will serve as a reminder to add the location of the unused hole to your
sketch. Check the pivot holes for any out of roundness. The pivot holes
should be perfect circles and if the holes are oval or elongated then that
means there is wear there that should be corrected. Any pivot hole that has
excessive wear should be repaired prior to reassembly by bushing it. Mark
any that you find for later repair. How to repair a worn pivot hole by bushing
is beyond the scope of this book but is explained in great detail in the repair
books discussed in Chapter 5 “What’s Next?” Turn the movement over and
also check out the backside for any unused holes or out of round pivot holes
in the plate. If you find any also mark them. Look at the top of the front plate
and find the slot where the escape wheel arbor passes through. You will use
this slot later in disassembly and reassembly. Notice how the arbors extend
slightly pass the plates. You can take your finger and move the arbors back
and forth. This play in the arbors is called end shake and is necessary for the
correct operation of the clock movement. If the clock were manufactured to
rigid tolerances it wouldn’t run; it is the slop in the movement that allows it
to function.
The movement as shipped is wound and ready to go but something is

keeping it from running. Usually the shipper will offset the escapement
retaining spring, which stops the escapement from oscillating. See Fig. 11.
Gently move the retaining spring back into the proper position. This should
free the pallets and the clock should run. Hold the clock movement vertical
and level. It may be necessary to give the crutch a little nudge to start it
swinging but the clock should start to tick away. Now you know that you
have a working clock movement. After you dismantle this movement and
put it back together again it should still run.
Making a Let Down Tool:

Before you can disassemble the clock movement you need a letdown tool.
So, before doing anything else drill a 3/16-inch hole approximately 1/2-inch
deep into one end of the 6-inch broomstick handle or dowel that you have
previously procured. The diameter of the hole should be the same as the
outside diameter of the wind up key. Then cut a slot across the same end of
the broomstick/dowel that has the hole drilled in it. Try and make the slot as
wide as the wind up key is thick. An easy way to do this is to use a hacksaw
and put two blades on the hacksaw to make the blade as thick as or slightly
44
thicker than the wind up key. After you have drilled the hole and cut the slot
insert the wind up key in the prepared end of the broomstick/dowel. It is a
good idea to secure the key in the dowel with an adjustable hose clamp that
can be purchased from an auto parts store. This will keep the
broomstick/dowel from splitting when put under strain.
FIG 22
Making a Sketch:
The next thing you need to do is to make a sketch of the clock movement.
The sketch of your spring driven 8-day clock movement will be rather
simple as there is not too much to it. But since most of the clock movements
you will run across in your future career as a clock repairer won’t be this
simple now is the time to get in the habit of making sketches. Once you have
the clock dismantled and you can’t remember where all the pieces go it will
be too late to make a sketch. As you get more experienced in clock repair
you will know what to make a sketch of and what you can leave out. The
sketches will become very important to you as you begin to work on more
complex movements. You will also find the sketch very important if you
don’t reassemble the clock soon after disassembling it. It is surprising how
much you can forget about the movement if you wait a day or two to
reassemble it. Normally you will want to make three sketches; one from the
front view and one from each side. It is best if you do the drawings side-by-
side so the parts line up. Once you get into more complex movements it is a
good idea to use different colors for the different trains.
The drawing can’t include everything so you need to decide what is

important to you for understanding the movement. As you gain experience
with clock movements you will learn what you need to include and what you
can leave out. Also the drawing doesn’t need to be too fancy. You are the
only person that needs to understand it, just make sure you can decipher it
when you are done. One thing that is important to show is in what direction
the wheels and pinions are facing when they mesh, i.e., whether the pinion is
facing up or down. In the drawing below of the 2nd wheel meshing with the
45
3rd wheel pinion notice that the 2nd wheel pinion is on the backside of the
second wheel facing down while the 3rd wheel pinion is on the top side of
the 3rd wheel facing up. Also notice that the escape wheel is shown outside
of the front plate while the escape wheel pinion is shown between the plates.
Also all the arbors that pass through the front plate, the main wheel arbor
and the center wheel arbor are depicted that way.
When drawing the plates I place an “o” where the approximate positions of
the pivot hole bushings are. I make an attempt to get their relative position
correct. If there are any unused holes on either the front or back plates I
place an “x” there. The importance of this can’t be overstated. It can be very
frustrating to try and reassemble the movement by placing the arbors in
incorrect holes.
Also put on the drawing the
direction that the mainspring winds
on the arbor. The direction is not
standardized among clockmakers so
this can be another point of
confusion when you attempt to
reassemble the clock movement.
If you have a digital camera by all

means take as many pictures as you
think you might need. As you
know, the beauty of a digital
camera is that you don’t have to
wait for the film to be processed.
You get immediate pictures right on
your computer. However don’t put
all your faith in the camera; it may
not be able to get pictures of those
hard to see items. Make sketches of
FIG 23
the movements you work on until you get a feeling for the strengths and
weaknesses of the digital camera.
46
Letting Down the Mainspring:

Read this section carefully and be
sure you understand it before you
start to let down the mainspring.
Letting down the mainspring is
necessary prior to anytime you
disassemble a spring driven clock
movement. On clocks with two
springs you must secure both
springs. On clocks with three
springs you must secure all three
springs. Not to do so can cause
bodily harm and or do severe
damage to the clock movement
FIG 24
due to the significant amount of power contained within the mainspring.
From all the warnings posted throughout this book about properly letting
down the mainspring you are probably properly impressed that this is an
important aspect of the disassembly procedure. You are right to believe this
and it is imperative that you understand what you are doing and why you are
doing it.
In this style of clock the mainspring loop is placed over one of the pillars.
The other end of the mainspring is hooked onto the winding arbor. As the
winding arbor is wound the mainspring wraps around it. The Main wheel is
also on the winding arbor. Between the mainspring and the Main wheel is a
round shield that is placed there to prevent the coils of the mainspring from
catching on the Main wheel.
There is a ratchet wheel also attached to the winding arbor, which turns
during winding. Although the ratchet wheel turns as the winding arbor is
turned, the main wheel, which is also on the winding arbor, remains
stationary. On the main wheel is attached a click which interacts with the
ratchet wheel. One end of the click is loosely attached to the main wheel
with a rivet while the other end of the click engages with the teeth of the
ratchet wheel. As the mainspring is wound and the winding arbor turns, the
47
click is lifted clear of the teeth of the ratchet wheel and then forced down
against the face of the next ratchet wheel tooth by the click spring. In normal
operation the click locks the ratchet wheel and first arbor assembly to the
main wheel. As the mainspring unwinds and turns the winding arbor, the
ratchet wheel also turns and forces the main wheel to turn, which powers the
time train.
Before starting to let down the mainspring you want the click in an easily
assessable location, one where it is not hidden between the plates. An easy
way to accomplish this is to hold your finger on the escape wheel to keep it
from turning. Then remove the anchor from the clock by moving the anchor
retaining spring aside, and carefully lifting off the anchor from the pin.
Then, slowly release finger pressure on the escape wheel allowing the
escape wheel to rotate until the click moves into an easily accessible location
outside of the plates. Once the click is in an easily accessible location
replace the anchor back on the pin and offset the anchor retaining spring to
effectively stop the movement from turning.
FIG 24 shows how to restrain the mainspring with the baling wire. The
spring is wound tight until the outer coil lies about ¼ inch inside the outside
diameter of the main wheel. Then the baling wire is fed around the
mainspring and the pillar that it is attached to. Tighten the wire by twisting
the ends together with a pair of pliers. Be sure to put a couple of twists in the
wire to keep it from unraveling.
Now place the key of the let down tool on the winding arbor, holding the let
down tool firmly in one hand. It is best to hold it in such a position that the
broomstick/dowel is in the palm of your hand with your thumb resting on the
top of the dowel. This will help you control the rate of spin when you start to
release the mainspring. Turn the winding arbor slightly in the direction of
winding to take some pressure off of the click. When the pressure is released
and the click is free insert a screwdriver or some other small tool that you
are holding in your second hand between the click and the ratchet wheel.
Move the click clear of the ratchet wheel teeth and hold it in that position as
you let down the mainspring. While holding the click clear slowly release
pressure in the hand holding the let down key and let the let down tool
slowly spin in the palm of your hand. Continue letting the let down tool to
spin until the spring is completely let down within the confines of the baling
wire. Give the let down tool a turn or two in the direction of unwinding to
further insure the mainspring is fully unwound.
48
Go slowly here. Do not let the speed of the spinning let down tool get too
fast. This part of the operation must be carefully controlled, as it is easy to
get out of control and possibly damage the movement. The pressure from
your thumb on top of the let down tool is a great way to control the
rotational speed of the let down tool.
Now that the mainspring is let down within the confines of the baling wire it
is safe to commence disassembly of the clock movement.
Disassembly:
You have made your inspection of the clock movement and ascertained you
have all the parts, and you have proved that the clock movement is in
working order. You have made a sketch of the movement; you have made
your let down tool and have let down the mainspring. You are now ready to
disassemble your first clock movement!
The first thing you do is undo the anchor again. Slide the anchor spring
retainer to one side and carefully slide the anchor off of the anchor pin. The
train may start to unwind again, but this is okay. This just shows there was
still stored power in the mainspring. Let the clock completely run down. At
this time you can take the let down tool and give the winding arbor another
turn or two in the unwinding direction to help insure all the mainspring
power is released. Next unscrew the four retaining nuts on the pillars with
your pliers. Be sure not to round the corners of the nuts with your pliers or
leave scratch marks on the plate. Tool marks left by a repairer on a
customers movement is the signature of a rank amateur.
The front plate is now ready to be lifted off. When you lift off the plate there
might still be some residual power in the mainspring and this will cause the
wheels and pinions to jump about and may disrupt the train. This can be
disconcerting on your first disassembly but don’t let it bother you. It is to be
expected. The ideal is to have all of the power in the mainspring controlled
and this will minimize or eliminate the disruption on lifting off the front
plate.
To keep the train disruptions to a minimum proceed as follows. Slowly and

gently pry up the front plate. As you lift the top plate the escape wheel pivot
will fall free from the pivot hole in the escape wheel cock. When this
49
happens, because the escape wheel is outside of the front plate, the escape
wheel will fall down and rest on the front plate. Reach into the movement
and disentangle the escape wheel lantern pinion from the 4th wheel. Continue
lifting the top plate until it is free from the movement. The escape wheel and
arbor should still be hanging from the front plate. Remove the escape wheel
from the front plate by working it out towards the front of the movement. Be
careful not to damage any escape wheel teeth. Once you have the escape
wheel pivot free of the movement you need to inspect it for any damage.
Inspecting the arbors for damage immediately upon removal from the
movement is a good habit to get into. Although this is a brand new
movement you are working with and there shouldn’t be any damage to it,
inspect it as if it was coming into your shop for repairs. Inspecting the
movement for damage while disassembling is a good habit to get into and by
doing so you won’t be surprised when it comes time to reassemble the
movement. Inspect the wheel and pinion for any bent, missing or broken
pinion leaves or wheel teeth. Also make sure the arbor shaft and the pivots
are not bent. Then run your thumbnail along the pivot to test for any
excessive wear on the pivot that would need to be polished out. If your
thumbnail catches there is excessive wear on the pivot that needs to be
polished out prior to reassembly. If you find any damage that needs to be
repaired before the clock movement is reassembled make a note of it now so
you don’t forget.
When the inspection is complete place the escape wheel arbor in your
Styrofoam block or cardboard box. Be sure to place it in the same position as
it was in the movement, i. e., the pinion up or pinion down, and in its
respective place in the time train, i.e., at the top of the time train.
Now sitting in front of you (see FIG 25) are the remaining four wheels of the
time train and the motion works arbor and the center wheel arbor all sitting
upright in the rear plate. Now might be a good time to make another drawing
or to take a digital photo if you think it would help you.
Remove the 3rd and 4th wheels from the movement one at a time. Be sure
they don’t get entangled with the wheels they mesh with. Inspect each one
the same as you inspected the escape wheel arbor as you remove them.
When you have completed the inspection, replace and remove the 3rd and
4th wheels a couple of times to familiarize yourself with where they go and
how they fit in. When you complete the inspection place them in the
50
Styrofoam block in their appropriate and respective position (pinions up or

down and their respective position in the train).
Slide the cannon tube off of the center wheel arbor. Refer to FIG 19 if you
can’t recall what part is the cannon tube. Turn it upside down and observe
the narrow rim on the hour wheel that rides on the cannon pinion. Put it
aside for a moment. Then examine

closely the interaction of the center
wheel with the second wheel and
the minute wheel with the cannon
pinion. The wheels may be slightly
out of kilter and you may have to
upright them in order to see how
they all mesh together. Slide the
cannon tube back on the center
wheel. Notice how the gears and
pinions on all three arbors, the
center wheel arbor, the motion
works arbor and the second wheel
arbor all mesh together.
FIG 25
This little exercise will help you remember where the pieces go when you
start to reassemble the movement. We will examine all these pieces later in
more detail but now just get an overview of what takes place here.
Remove the cannon tube again. Remove the motion works arbor and place it
in your parts bowl. Remove the center wheel arbor. As you remove each
piece examine it for damage. This habit will serve you well later in your
clock repair career. Notice the coiled spring and the clutch plate assembly
pressing against the rear of the center wheel. This also will be examined in
greater detail later. Put the cannon tube back on the center wheel arbor and
place both pieces in your parts bowl. Keep the center wheel arbor with the
cannon tube and the motion works arbor in your parts bowl separate from
the time train. At this level of your experience if the parts are co-mingled
they can become confused with each other.
51
Remove the second wheel from the time train. Perform the same inspection
on this piece as you did on the other wheels and arbors. When the inspection
is complete place it in your Styrofoam block or cardboard box. Remember to
place it in the same position as you found it in the movement, i.e., the pinion
up or the pinion down and its relative position in the train.
Now remove the main wheel by pulling up and sliding the loop end off of
the pillar. Once the Main wheel is removed it may now be possible to
remove the winding arbor from the mainspring simply by rotating the arbor
in the direction opposite of winding the spring and unhooking the arbor from
the mainspring and pulling it out.
Do this and see if your arbor comes apart from the mainspring. If the arbor
does separate from the mainspring take note of the hook on the winding
arbor that catches on the mainspring in order to wind it. The arbor is
reinstalled by reinserting it into the mainspring and turning it in the direction
of winding until it catches on the mainspring. The winding arbor can be
inserted into either side of the mainspring. The side it is inserted in
determines the direction of winding, so you need to insert it in the side that
will give you the proper winding direction for your movement. This can be
determined from the sketch you made that showed the direction of winding
for the mainspring. When it comes time to reinstall the winding arbor into
the mainspring you will be glad you included in your sketch which way the
main spring winds on the arbor.
If the arbor doesn’t come out easily it is unimportant at this stage and just
continue on. Take note of the round shield between the mainspring and the
main wheel. This shield is there to prevent the coils of the mainspring from
getting hung up on the main wheel. Closely examine the front of the
mainspring and take note of the click, click spring and the ratchet wheel.
Hold the main spring in one hand and put the let down key on the winding
arbor. Turn the letdown key in the direction of winding the mainspring.
Notice how the winding arbor and the ratchet wheel turn while the main
wheel remains stationary. As you continue to wind the arbor notice how the
click is lifted in turn by each tooth of the ratchet wheel and then as the click
clears a ratchet wheel tooth it is forced down against the face of a tooth by
the pressure of the click spring.
Now simulate the unwinding of the clock movement by turning the winding
arbor in the direction opposite of winding. Take note of how the face of one
52
of the ratchet wheel’s tooth pushes against the click. Since the click is
permanently attached to the main wheel by a rivet, the force of the winding
arbor and ratchet wheel turning against the click forces the main wheel to
turn, this powers the train.
Over the course of a clocks lifetime there is a lot of wear and pressure
exerted upon the click and its rivet. There can be severe damage done to the
movement if there is any malfunction of these pieces such as the rivet or
click breaking. Therefore it pays dividends to closely inspect these items at
every opportunity and replace or repair them as necessary; in this situation
there is no truer statement than “a stitch in time saves nine”.
Now that you have all the wheels removed from the back plate you should
have two empty plates, the front and back plates. Replace the front plate
onto the rear plate. You are checking to see that the front plate sits squarely
on the rear plate without any wobble. If not, either a pillar is bent or a plate
is warped. In either case it would have to be corrected before continuing.
Take the front plate off and set it aside. Take the 2nd wheel and insert its
pivot into the rear plate. Move the arbor from side to side in all directions to
see how far the arbor will lean. The arbor shouldn’t lean more than
approximately 5 degrees to one side or else the pivot bushing is too large
and allows too much movement of the arbor. Since this is a new movement
you are working with you can assume the lean you get on these arbors is
correct. Try and remember what this amount of lean looks like so you can
apply it to other movements you will work on later in your clock repair
career. Remove the 2nd wheel and then do the same with the 3rd wheel, then
the 4th wheel and then finally the escape wheel. You should have
approximately the same amount of lean on all the arbors. Repeat the above
test using the front plate. You will be able to do all of the bushings just as
you did on the rear plate except for the escape wheel. With the escape wheel
you can only get a partial idea of the lean as the sides of the plate restrict the
lean in two directions. However it is possible to turn the front plate over and
insert the escape wheel pivot from the front and this will give you some
indication as whether or not the arbor has the right amount of lean. The
above test is only a very general test of the pivot bushing hole size. Different
manufacturers use different hole sizes and unless you know what the specific
hole size the manufacturer used you have no way of telling what the right
size is. Checking the pivot hole for out of round is the only real way of
testing it for wear. If it is out of round or oval then the hole is worn.
53
Once you have the movement disassembled there are four interesting
exercises to perform with the center wheel arbor.
1. Hold the center wheel arbor by the pivots between both thumbs
and forefingers. With one thumb and forefinger rotate the center wheel arbor
and you will see that the center wheel and the cannon pinion rotate as one.
2. Now hold the center wheel rigid between one thumb and forefinger
and with the other thumb and forefinger rotates the center wheel arbor. You
will notice that the clutch assembly allows the cannon pinion and the center
wheel arbor to rotate while the center wheel remains still.
3. Separate the center wheel from the cannon pinion. This is done by
pulling them apart. Momentarily pull the center wheel towards the spring,
while holding the other end of the center wheel arbor, separating the center
wheel from the cannon pinion. This allows you to see how it was assembled.
4. Partially reassemble the clock by only inserting the center wheel

arbor, the motion works arbor and the second wheel arbor. Slide the cannon
tube in place over the center wheel arbor. Put the front plate on the
movement and tighten the 4 nuts on the pillars. Slide the hour hand onto the
cannon tube until it is snug. Put the minute hand on the end of the center
wheel arbor. Tighten the minute hand down with the nut provided. Now turn
the second wheel counter clockwise so the minute hand rotates clockwise as
in normal operation while observing the operation of the wheels and pinions.
Next turn the minute hand clockwise also observing the operation of all the
wheels and pinions. Next, hold the second wheel stationary, as it would be
under normal operation conditions when meshed with the first wheel. Now
turn the minute hand as in resetting the clock while still holding the second
wheel stationary. Here you can see how the clutch plate assembly allows the
center wheel arbor to turn without turning the center wheel.
These exercises should demonstrate quite clearly the function and purpose of
the center wheel spring and clutch plate assembly. Repeat these exercises as
often as necessary until you understand how it all goes together.
Take the front plate off and set it aside. Insert the 4th wheel arbor pivot into
its proper bushing on the back plate. Then insert the 3rd wheel into its proper
bushing making sure the 3rd wheel meshes with the 4th wheel pinion. Next
54
insert the 2nd wheel making sure it meshes with the 3rd wheel pinion. You
now have the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th wheels of the time train planted in the rear
plate. Take the front plate and reinsert the escape wheel into the front plate.
This is just the reverse of how you removed it. Place the escape wheel pivot
into its pivot hole in the escape wheel cock. Now pick up the front plate by
holding the escape wheel making sure the escape wheel pivot remains in its
pivot hole in the escape wheel cock. Take the front plate and gently lay it
over the movement, making sure the escape wheel lantern pinion clears the
4th wheel. Place the movement over the pillars and insert the two bottom
pillars into the front plate, meanwhile insuring the escape wheel pivot goes
into its respective pivot hole on the back plate. You can gently secure the
front plate by screwing two nuts onto the pillars. Don’t tighten the screw too
tight but keep it on the loose side. You just want to keep the front plate in
place and stop it from getting dislodged. Now working from the bottom of
the movement up to the top, maneuver the 2nd wheel pivot into its front
plate bushing. Do this very gently; you do not want to force anything.
Forcing things can result in bent, or even worse, broken pivots. Then further
gently lowering the front plate insert the 3rd wheel pivot into its bushing and
then the 4th wheel pivot into its pivot. Then continue by gently lowering the
front plate onto the top two pillars. At this time the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and escape
wheel pivots should be in their proper bushings in both the top and rear plate
and the front plate should be resting squarely on all four pillars without any
wobble. If not, something is out of place and you need to start the exercise
over again. The first place to look for a problem is to see whether or not the
escape wheel pivot is in the pivot hole in the escape wheel cock.
Secure the front plate to the top pillars using the remaining 2 pillar screws.
Then snug down the front plate to the rear plate. After the front plate is
secured, lift up on each wheel one at a time. The arbors should be able to
make some small up and down movement between the plates. This is called
end shake and must be present for the clock to properly run. Pick the clock
movement up and turn it upside down. You should be able to hear a “clunk”
as the arbors fall into a new position. That sound you hear is end shake in
operation. Testing the wheels individually for movement is the proper way
to check for end shake. If you use the turn-it-upside-down method you won’t
know if you are hearing all the arbors or just one or two of them.
With all the wheels still in place between the plates give the 2nd wheel a
slow turn with your finger. As you continue to turn the 2nd wheel the train
should run free and clear. You should not be able to feel any binding, rough
55
spots or hang-ups in the train. Everything should run smoothly. If there are
any problems they would have to be corrected before going any further. This
will also demonstrate how the wheels rotate faster as you go up in the gear
train.
The next experiment will demonstrate the power of the mainspring and how
it is slowly diminished throughout the train as explained on pages 19-20. To
start the experiment, take the front plate off and remove all the wheels. Slide
the mainspring loop over the proper pillar and insert the winding arbor into
the rear plate. Install the 2nd, 3rd and 4th wheel arbors in that order making
sure they are all properly meshed. Replace the front plate with the escape
wheel using the same procedure you used in the earlier exercise.
Snug down the front plate against the rear plate using the four pillar nuts.
Replace the anchor onto the anchor pin and slide the anchor retainer spring
into its proper position over the pin so the anchor is free to oscillate. Unwind
the wire restraining the mainspring. The clock should now be ready to run.
Lay the movement on its back with the face up. Slide the anchor retainer
spring off of the anchor pin. With a finger of one hand apply slight pressure
to the escape wheel to keep it from turning, and with the other hand remove
the anchor from the anchor pin.
Be careful here! Once you have removed the anchor you will have to keep
slight pressure on the escape wheel to keep it from running wild and
spinning out of control. To start the experiment, slowly remove pressure
from the escape wheel until it begins to spin. Start and stop the escape wheel
a couple of times noting how little pressure it takes to stop it.
Now with finger pressure of one hand holding the escape wheel motionless,
take your other hand and pinch the main wheel between your thumb and
forefinger. Grip the main wheel as tight as you can. Then slowly release
pressure on the escape wheel allowing the train to run while trying keep the
main wheel from turning with your other hand. The odds are you will be
unlikely to be able to stop the main wheel from turning due to the power of
the mainspring. This experiment demonstrates how powerful the mainspring
is and how the power is slowly diminished throughout the train. You can’t
stop the main wheel from turning at one end of the train using your hand but
you can stop it at the other end using just slight finger pressure.
56
When you are done experimenting with this, reinstall the anchor onto the
anchor pin. Then reposition the anchor retaining spring to keep the anchor in
place. This will secure the clock train.
This concludes the training exercises with the clock train. Hopefully, now
you have an understanding of what the different parts of a clock do and how
the different parts are all interrelated to arrive at the sole purpose of the
clock, that is, to display the correct time. If there is any part you don’t fully
understand now is the time to go back and redo it.
Our next job will be to reassemble the movement with all the components.
As the movement now stands, the center wheel arbor and the motion works
arbor are not installed. The movement will have to be disassembled before
these two arbors can be inserted. That means the mainspring must be let
down again. Remember it is necessary to let down the mainspring prior to
anytime you are going to disassemble a spring driven movement. It may
behoove you to reread the section on letting down the mainspring before you
tackle the job. Remember, if you don’t do it right severe damage can occur
to the movement. In a nutshell, the major steps are, position the click in an
easily accessible location, tighten the restraining wire around the mainspring
and the pillar, let down the mainspring.
Once you have the mainspring let down, proceed to disassemble the
movement by removing the front plate. Remove all of the wheel arbors and
place them in their proper place in the Styrofoam block. The movement is
now ready for final reassembly.
Reassembly:
Reassembling the clock movement will be a relative breeze for you by now.
Actually you have reassembled it piecemeal two or three times already by
conducting the different exercises in the last chapter. So reassembling will
just be a repeat of what you have already done. As you reassemble the
movement make a quick examination of all the parts as you reinstall them.
You want to make sure there isn’t any damage that was overlooked, and that
any damage you did find was repaired properly. You also want to insure that
the parts are clean, as you don’t want to introduce any dirt into the
movement.
57
To start place the mainspring loop over the pillar and insert the winding
arbor into the back plate. Insert the 2nd, 3rd and 4th wheel arbors into their
respective bushing holes in the back plate, making sure they are properly
meshed with each other. Remove the cannon tube from the center wheel
arbor. Install the center wheel arbor into the back plate. Next, insert the
motion works arbor into the back plate. Make sure the center wheel is
meshed with the second wheel and make sure the minute wheel is meshed
with the cannon pinion. Slide the cannon tube back on the center wheel
arbor meshing the hour wheel with the minute pinion.
You are now ready to put the front plate on the movement. Make sure the
escape wheel is installed in the front plate as was done previously. Set the
front plate over the two bottom pillars, making sure the escape wheel lantern
pinion clears the 4th wheel; lightly tighten the pillar nuts a turn or two. This
will help keep everything in place.
Now working from the bottom up insert the pivots into the front plate. Be
gentle here, do not force anything; it is very easy to bend or break the pivots.
Sometimes you will find pivots that just want to fall into their respective
holes. If you don’t have any of these it is usually easier to work from the
bottom up. Insert the 2nd wheel pivot, then the motion works arbor pivot
into their respective bushings. Next insert the 3rd wheel pivot and then the
4th wheel pivot into their respective bushings. Make sure the escape wheel
pivots are properly installed in both the rear plate and the escape wheel cock.
With all the pivots installed in their proper bushings, the front plate should
be lying squarely and firmly on the 4 pillars. Give the 2nd wheel a slight
twist in both directions with your finger. Everything should turn freely; there
should be no binding or rough spots.
Put the two remaining nuts on the top pillars and snug them down. Snug
down the two nuts on the bottom pillars. Place the anchor onto the anchor
pin and slide the anchor retaining spring over the pin to allow the anchor to
oscillate. Remove the restraining wire from around the mainspring and
pillar. Pick the movement up in your hand and hold it level and vertical. You
may have to give the crutch a slight nudge to get it started but the clock
should be ticking away.
You have just successfully disassembled and reassembled your first clock
movement. But more, much more than that, by now you should have a clear
58
understanding of what each part of a clock movement does and how all the
parts are integrated together to operate as a unit and show the correct time.
Plus, you are now standing on the precipice of an interesting time in your
clock repair career. If you choose to go on you still have a lot to learn. But
you can start to undertake the new learning experience with the confidence
of someone who knows how a clock works and someone who knows they
can take one apart and put it back together again.
59
NOTES
60
Getting Started In Clock Repair
What’s Next?
Y ou have successfully
disassembled and
reassembled an 8-day time only
clock moment. Along the way you
understanding of how a
mechanical clock works. The
discussion and demonstration of
actual repairs was beyond the
picked up a pretty good scope of this book for a couple of
understanding of how a clock reasons. First and foremost to
works. But you still have a lot to include any explanation of clock
learn on your quest to becoming a repair techniques would require a
competent clock repairer. For much larger and more costly book
starters, you will need to know than first visualized. Secondly,
how to remove a clock movement some aspects of clock repair would
from its case, and how to clean it. require their own book.
Then you will need to know how Escapements, wheel and teeth
to make the different repairs that cutting, repair of striking and
may be required such as polishing chime clocks, use of a lathe, are
pivots, replacing broken pivots, but a few examples of subjects that
replacing missing wheel teeth, require their own book.
adjusting pallets, replacing
mainsprings, bushing worn pivot To leave out actual repair
holes. Then as you reassemble the procedures was a conscious
movement you will need to know decision knowing that with proper
the proper way of lubricating it guidance and suggestions the
and adjusting the beat. Some if not reader could be directed towards
all of these things will have to be where to find the required
done to each and every movement information. In this chapter I’m
you work on. going to do just that. I will tell you
the books that I used and in what
This book concentrated solely on order I used them in order to
getting the beginner through the improve my clock repairing skills
disassembly and reassembly of a to go from a-know-nothing
simple 8-day time only clock neophyte to a successful money
movement along with the making professional.
61
What’s Next?
But before ordering any books I that you will receive on alternate
strongly urge you to consider months. It is the ‘want ads’ section
joining one or more of the for NAWCC. Here you will find
professional organizations open to all sorts of horological items for
clock enthusiasts. There are three sale by, or wanted by other
prominent organizations that are members. This is another great
worthy of your consideration. source for finding that item you
Many clock enthusiasts belong to want, or even better, selling
all three. They all charge a something you no longer need.
membership fee but the benefits
you receive as a member surely The great thing about the NAWCC
outweigh any expense on your is that they have local chapters.
part. Your membership fee will be There is most likely one or more
returned two or three-fold over the within driving distance of your
years from just the use of their home. Membership in the national
book and video lending library, the organization is required before you
information you receive in the can join a local chapter. The local
monthly magazine, especially the chapters are a great place to meet
clock repair tips, and any like-minded clock enthusiasts – the
participation in their training membership ranges from amateur
courses. The addresses of the collectors to professional repairers
organizations are listed in the and dealers. The members of the
appendix. local chapters have a large
reservoir of skill, knowledge and
The largest of the three experience that they are willing to
organizations is the National share with you. This is the place to
Association of Watch and Clock ask questions about how to do a
Collectors (NAWCC) with over specific repair or technique. Let
27,000 members worldwide. The these people know you are just
NAWCC publishes two magazines getting started in clock repair and
for its members six times a year on you will be surprised how willing
alternate months. The Bulletin everyone is to help you.
contains articles on artistic,
historic, and technical aspects of The meetings are usually a lot of
timekeeping. It is very well done fun. They generally start with a
and is abundantly illustrated. This business meeting, usually 5-10
is one magazine you will look minutes long to take care of the
forward to receiving every other local business. Then a member or
month. The Mart is the second two will chair a discussion of
magazine published by NAWCC topical interest or put on some
62
clock/watch repair workshop or Institute (AWCI). This

demonstration, or maybe a slide organization also publishes a
show from the NAWCC extensive monthly magazine with articles of
library. The meetings usually close interest to the watchmaking and
with a mart, which is really just a clockmaking fraternity. In my
swap meet. This is a great place to opinion this magazine has some of
pick up tools, books, and maybe the best how to articles of any of
even a clock or two. the magazines. AWCI also has a
lending library and training
The NAWCC also holds regional courses available.
meetings that are something like a
local chapter meeting but on a The British Horological Institute
much larger scale that usually lasts (BHI) is another professional
2-3 days. The marts at the organization worthy of your
regionals are a real clock consideration about joining.
lovers/bargain hunters delight; Although mostly catering to
filled with clocks, clock cases, membership in the United
clock movements, parts, tools, Kingdom, it too publishes a
books, etc., - you name it and it is magazine that has great how to
probably there. On a national level, clock repair articles in it. It also
there is something like 20 has an advertising section that
regionals held every year so there offers items or services not usually
is bound to be one near you in the found in the American magazines.
near future. Then, once a year, the
NAWCC holds a National If you can only afford to join one
convention in one of the major US organization than I recommend the
cities. This is the mother of all NAWCC. This will allow you to
regionals and is the most widely join a local chapter where you can
attended of them all. It is highly find like-minded people. The local
recommended that you attend a chapters are a great place for the
National convention if you ever beginner to get all the help and
get the chance. encouragement that he needs.
There is always someone there
Another first rate professional who is willing to take you under
organization is the American his or her wing and act as your
Watchmakers-Clockmakers mentor.
63
What’s Next?
Recommended Books movements you may want to move

on to the challenge of working on
and How to Use Them: a three-train chime movement.
The following books will take you Even if you don’t work on every
through a logical progression of movement mentioned in the books,
simple repairs to more complex the books will make great
repairs. If you follow through on reference books as you add to your
this plan you will progress from clock collection. As you acquire a
the one-train movement that you new clock and add it to your clock
have already studied, to the two- collection be sure to check and see
train strike movement then on to if it isn’t, or one very similar to it,
the more complex three-train included in the books. If it is I
chime movement. You will learn recommend working on it for the
the intricacies of the count wheel learning experience.
and the rack and snail strike
movements, plus the chime But, on the other hand, if you want
assembly mechanism. You will to learn clock repair in the hopes
learn how to diagnose faults and of starting a profitable little
make the necessary repairs to these business, then you need to use the
movements. You will also learn recommended books in a more
general clock repair skills such as structured approach. You need to
cleaning clocks, replacing missing use the books as your curriculum,
wheel teeth, polishing pivots and working through one assignment at
lubricating the movement and a time.
adjusting the beat.
To use the following books
You can use the recommended properly, you will have to
books list one of two ways. It is as purchase additional clock
the sub-title says: For Fun or movements as necessary to follow
Profit. If you enjoy clock repair at along with in the books. For
the hobby level than read the instance, when you get to the
recommended books at your section where striking and chime
leisure to improve your clock clocks are discussed you will need
repair skill and increase your both a striking movement and a
enjoyment of the hobby. You don’t chiming movement to use much as
need to assiduously work on each you used the 8-day time only
and every example of clock movement in this book. When you
moments mentioned in the books. get to the part where the 5 starter
Maybe after working on just one clocks are discussed you will have
or two two-train striking to purchase additional movements
64
to follow along on in that section with them you can sell them
also. Having the additional yourself on eBay or a garage sale
movements on hand to use with to recoup some of your expenses.
the books will maximize your
learning. You shouldn’t skimp Your first clock repair books
here. You need the practice and should be ones that are well
you should practice on your own written, relevant and includes all
property, not on your customer’s the pertinent information that a
property. Not only do you need beginning clock repairer needs.
the practice movements to learn
how to disassemble and The first two books I recommend
reassemble them but you also need are by the same author, Philip
them to practice making repairs Balcomb. The title of the first book
on. Every time you come across a is The Clock Repair Primer – The
repair procedure mentioned in one Beginners Handbook. This book
of the books practice doing it on definitely lives up to its sub-title
your movement. Some of the The Beginners Handbook. It starts
books have instructions on how to with the very basics, showing
make small tools that will help you different examples of clock hands
in repairing clocks. Be sure to and dials. It explains how to
make these tools as you come examine a clock movement both
across them as they will definitely inside and outside of the
be a great help to you in your movement. It explains how to
career, but moreover they will help remove the movement from the
you improve your metal working case. It describes the different
skills. Reading and practice, then tools needed in beginning clock
more reading and more practice repair and how to use them. This
will make you a successful clock book will be your introduction to
repairer. two-train clock movements. It
contains one of the best
The movements you will need can descriptions for a beginner of how
be easily obtained either on eBay, a striking movement works. It
from The Mart that was previously explains both the count wheel and
mentioned, or from members of the rack and snail method of
the local NAWCC chapter. You striking. It also explains the
may also find some of the disassembly, cleaning and
movements such as a cuckoo clock reassembly of both a weight and
and a 400-day anniversary clock at spring driven clock movement.
local garage sales. And the good The instructions of how to clean a
part is that when you are finished clock movement are excellent. The
65
What’s Next?
final chapter in the book contains and a three-train striking/chiming

descriptions of repairs that the movement.
beginner can easily accomplish
without specialized tools. You The next three books that I
should practice these repairs until recommend you read to improve
you are comfortable and proficient your clock repair skill were all
at doing them. The descriptions written by Steven Conover. The
throughout the book are first book is entitled Clock Repair
augmented with 144 illustrations Basics. It covers some of the
that help clarify the point the ground already covered in
author is trying to make. Balcomb’s books but Conover also
covers new ground. Among other
The second book is a sequel to the things he introduces you to the
first. Its title is The Clock Repair electric clock and its repair. But
First Reader – Second Steps for the most important aspect of this
the Beginner, also by Philip book is the five starter clocks he
Balcomb. In this book the author recommends for the beginning
goes into great detail about bench clock repairer to start working on.
practices for the clock repairer, In this book he walks you through
clock movement holders, special the setup and operation of these
tools and metal used in clocks and five clocks so you can tackle them
the repair and restoration of clock with ease.
cases. Then he describes in great
detail the operation and repair of After you have built up a little
common clocks that the beginning experience and confidence by
clock repairer can more than likely working your way through
pick up at a local garage sale or Balcomb’s two books and
from The Mart. These include the Conover’s Clock Repair Basics
ubiquitous cuckoo clock and the you are probably ready to delve
400-day anniversary clock. But the deeper into two-train striking clock
best part of the book is his movements. The next book,
description of how a chiming clock Conover’s Striking Clock Repair
works. Remember a chiming train Guide covers the subject better
is the third train of a clock than any other book available. This
movement as mentioned on pages book describes in depth how to
12-13. In this book we just properly disassemble, set up, and
discussed a one-train movement. reassemble both the count wheel
Balcomb’s two books bring you to and the rack and snail striking
a higher level with his explanation system. Then it describes in detail
of a two-train striking movement the workings of 11 count wheel
66
movements and 6 rack and snail chime clock basics and common
movements. When you have repair problems. Then it describes
finished with these exercises you in great detail the repair
will be very proficient with and procedures for approximately 18
knowledgeable about striking different chime movements. If you
clock movements. were to work through all 18
movements, disassembling,
Then, as an added bonus, Conover reassembling and performing the
describes the Ship’s Bell system suggested repairs, you would have
and describes and explains 4 a firm understanding of chime
examples of this type of clock. clock movements. And, most
This is a real plus; you won’t find importantly not only would you
this type of information elsewhere. have the experience and
Ships’ Bell clocks are a breed of confidence to undertake the repair
their own since they have their of one when presented to you; you
own peculiar striking pattern for would also be confident and
the benefit of the crew members skillful enough to undertake the
aboard ship. However a lot of repair of a chime movement
people like them, especially the entirely new to you.
nautical set, and they are a
collectors item in their own right. While you are reading the above
After working through the five books and also working on the
examples included in this book clock movements you can be
you will be prepared when one reading Ward Goodrich’s The
crosses your workbench. Modern Clock. Written over 100
years ago in 1905, it is still
The next book recommended is considered by many the premier
another Steven Conover book. Its book on clock theory. This book is
entitled Chime Clock Repair. so well thought of it is still in print
Remember a chime clock is a after all these years. It covers all
three-train movement that not only aspects of clock works and
tells the time and strikes the hours movements. It has particularly
and half hours, but also plays a good sections on gearing in
melody on the quarter hours. In my clockwork and on the pendulum.
opinion, just like Striking Clock This is he kind of book that instead
Repair Guide is the definitive book of reading it from cover to cover
on two train movements, Chime you just read particular chapters as
Clock Repair is the definitive book they pertain to whatever aspect of
on three-train movement repair. It clockwork you are interested in at
starts with an introduction into that time. This book is a must read
67
What’s Next?
for any clock repairer and will If you were to work on all the
stand them in good stead. I am different movements discussed in
constantly surprised at how many the recommended books list you
times throughout my career I have would have worked on 40 some
gone back to this book to look clock movements. This might
something up. seem highly impractical and overly
ambitious to you, but compare it to
Now, last but not least is John a clockmaking apprenticeship that
Pierson’s Clock Repair - Part Time normally lasted seven years before
Hours – Full Time Pay. This book the apprentice was considered a
tells you how to start your own journeyman. By working on all
clock repair business; yes, working these different clock movements
part time hours and making full you are accelerating your own
time pay. This book begins with apprenticeship. You should be able
how to become a self-taught clock to work your way through all these
repairer and ends with how to clock movements in about a year.
attract customers. This is a really However you won’t have to wait
must have book for anyone until you go through all the
contemplating going into the clock movements before you can open
repair business. I strongly your own clock repair business.
recommend that you read this book You can start your repair business
before you start your own clock soon after you read a few books,
repair business. There are a lot of work on a couple of movements
useful hints and tips on how to run and have a little experience. There
a successful clock repair business will be more said about when you
in this book. can start your own business later in
this book.
As stated earlier in this book, if
you worked his way through the There are two important facts to
five books previously mentioned consider when contemplating
and practiced on the clock working on all 40 some
movements shown in the books, movements. The first is that you
then you would have a firm, need the practice and experience
practical understanding of all three that these movements provide. As
clock types; the one-train time a clock repairer you can
only, the two-train time and strike, reasonably expect to have 40
and the three-train time, strike and different movements cross your
chime movement. bench and where do you expect to
get the knowledge and experience
to work on them. You can’t, in
68
good conscience, get practice on of it exactly what you put into it.
your customer’s property at his And this is just as true in
expense. When a customer clockwork as it is in everything
presents you with a clock for else. If you want to take shortcuts
repair you should only accept it if and cut corners, then this is bound
you are confident you can to be reflected in the quality of
successfully repair it. This your end product; the clock your
confidence comes from knowing customer brought to you for repair.
you worked on one just like it or at Now, a word of caution is due
the very least one very similar to here. If you go into the clock
it. This is the purpose on working repair business you are entering a
on so many different movements; world where word of mouth is
by exposing yourself to different everything. A satisfied customer is
types it increases your knowledge your best advertisement. If you
base, your proficiency and skill start off on the wrong foot by
level, and your confidence. doing shoddy work, due to a lack
Remember all these movements of training, experience, knowledge
are different in some significant or skill, your disgruntled
manner or another; you will be customers are sure to pass the
working on 40 some different word around. The effects of bad
movements, not on one type of publicity can be so devastating that
movement 40 different times. you may never be able to recover.
From a practical standpoint, just The only way to insure a good
learning how to disassemble and reputation for your clock repair
reassemble 40 different moments business is to do professional,
will be a boon. All movements do competent repairs. And the only
not set up or reassemble alike. way to do professional, competent
Some movements reassemble repairs is through practice and
easier if you put the arbors in the training.
front plate first instead of the back
plate as we did here. Its great to Although the ideal would be to get
know the secrets of each the maximum experience possible
movement as it will save you a lot by working on all the different
of time and frustration. movements that might be
impractical for most people. So
The second thing you need to just work on as many different
consider when contemplating how movements as you can because
many and which ones of the each one is different from the
movements you will work on is the others, and each one teaches you
fact that Life is funny. You get out something new. Remember, when
69
What’s Next?
you start out on your clock repair movements.

career you are going to be a one-
man shop and the only guide you Goodrich’s book should be read at
will have is your own experience. least once and some of the
Experience is one of the three chapters two or three times until it
main ingredients for a successful all sinks in. Goodrich’s book is
clock repair business; the other one of those books you will keep
two ingredients are more referring back to during your clock
experience and still more repair career. Balcomb’s two
experience. books should be read while you
have the appropriate movements in
When Can You Start your hand to follow along with in
the book much like you used the
Your Own Clock Repair one-train movement with this
Business? book. This will require two
You should be able to open your different two-train movements,
own clock repair business soon which are a count wheel and a rack
after starting this program. I and snail movement along with a
recommend that you have read three-train chime movement.
Goodrich’s The Modern Clock;
Balcomb’s two books The Clock Hopefully, also by the time you are
Repair Primer - The Beginners ready to start your own clock
Handbook and The Clock Repair repair business you have been able
First Reader - Second Steps for the to join a local chapter of the
Beginner; Conover’s Clock Repair NAWCC. The importance of
Basics and Pierson’s Clock Repair belonging to a local chapter cannot
- Part Time Hours – Full Time Pay be overstated. The members will
before you start your business. be more than willing to help you
That is only five books to read and with any clock problems you may
shouldn’t take you more than a have. If they can’t solve your
couple of weeks. Of course you problem then they at least know
would be working on some clock where to send you for help.
movement along with the reading.
I also recommend that you have The next thing you will need
available Conover’s other two before starting your business is a
books, Striking Clock Repair dedicated workplace and some
Guide and Chime Clock Repair, tools. Everything you need in this
for reference as you start working area is discussed rather fully in the
on two and three-train clock books you will be reading. All of
them advise not to go out and buy
70
expensive equipment, at least not experience stay away from clocks

at first. This is good advice. Keep with missing or broken pieces.
everything simple and use what Broken mainsprings are an
you have at hand. exception to this rule. If there is no
other damage to the clock such as
You are now ready to receive your missing teeth or bent pivots then
first customer! I would like to by all means take the clock in for
recommend that you “cherry pick” repair. Replacing broken
the movements you take in for mainsprings can be an easy,
repair, at least for the first dozen or lucrative job.
so. By “cherry picking” I mean
you just accept the easy jobs and Always observe Rule # 1 in the
leave the complicated repairs for clock repair business that says,
someone else until you get more “Never work on a clock that you
experience. can’t afford to replace”. You don’t
want to be responsible for
The easy ones to repair are the destroying somebody’s heirloom,
ones just needing cleaning and and then not being able to make
oiling. You will know this when restitution. If you do run into a
the customer says, “It is over problem in your clock repair
wound”. First of all there is no business be sure to consult with
such thing as an over wound the members of the local NAWCC
spring. You can only wind a chapter that you hopefully belong
mainspring until it comes to its end to. If they can’t help you they most
and then it stops. What this is likely know somebody that can.
really telling you is that the old oil Also, in The Mart, the want ad
in the clock has congealed and section of the NAWCC magazine
stopped the movement. The that you receive as a member, you
movement most likely just needs will find advertisements by
to be cleaned and oiled. Another specialists that do all kinds of
dead giveaway of an easy repair repair work for the trade. So if you
will be when a customer says; “it were to accidentally break a pivot
runs for 10 minutes and then on a customer’s clock and nobody
stops.” This is usually another from your local chapter could help
indication of just another dirty you, then surely you will be able to
clock in need of cleaning and find somebody in The Mart that
oiling. These two examples are of could.
clocks that you can be reasonably
sure that all the pieces are still As your business grows, remember
there. Until you get more you also have to grow. Continue
71
What’s Next?
practicing on the movements listed and pinions. This would preclude

in the books until you are a you from out sourcing this type of
competent, proficient clock work and allow you to increase
repairer. Continue to read clock your profits. As your skill level
repair books, especially the one increases, and satisfied customers
listed in the additional reading pass the word around, you will
section of this book. The next soon have more work than you can
plateau after basic clock repair handle.
would be to learn how to use a
lathe to make your own wheels
The next book is all about
escapements. Any clock repairer,
Additional Reading: whether amateur or professional,
However, as beneficial as all this beginner or experienced, must
practical experience is to your make an exhaustive study of
clock-repairing career there is still escapements in order to be
a lot of theoretical knowledge that successful. This will allow them to
you have to learn. make timely diagnoses and speedy
repairs of any escapement faults,
One book that should be on the thus saving them time which
clock repairers must read list is increasing their profits. Nothing is
Practical Clock Repair by Donald more frustrating then to spend
de Carle. de Carle has been a countless hours trying to adjust a
popular and prolific horological recalcitrant escapement. An
author for many years. The first understanding of how each type of
half of the book is dedicated to escapement functions and what is
clock repair. The second half of the appropriate repair for each
the book describes how to make a escapement type can alleviate this
clock. How to make a clock frustration. There is not one
movement is included in a book on standard cure that fits all
clock repair on the premise that if escapements. To save time and
you can make a clock, them you increase profits a repairer must
will be able to repair any part of a know their escapements. The best
damaged clock. If you know how book available on clock
to make any of the parts that make escapements is Laurie Penman’s
up a clock movement then you Practical Clock Escapements. This
won’t be stumped when it becomes book will not only tell you how an
time to repair a complicated part. escapement works and how to
repair it, but it will teach you how
to design and make your own
72
escapement and pallets. When Anniversary 400-Day Clock by

reading this book it is highly William J. Bilger, and this book
recommended that you have a should be used in conjunction with
compass and protractor close at Horolovar’s book when adjusting
hand and draw the examples as the the 400-day clock. Adjusting the
author describes them. This will Anniversary 400-Day Clock is an
greatly enhance your E-Book that can be found on eBay
understanding of the different at www.stores.ebay.com/My-
types of escapements. Wifes-Bookstore. It explains how
to use Terwilliger’s book and goes
Since 400-day anniversary clocks into a simplified explanation of
are quite abundant, especially non- how to adjust the 400-day clock
working ones, you may want to movement.
add their repair to your repertoire.
A lot of clockmakers refuse to Terwilliger’s book contains one of
work on them since they can be the best descriptions of the
quite temperamental if not Graham dead-beat escapement
properly adjusted. I’m of the ever written. Henry B. Fried, a
personal opinion they just haven’t noted horological author and an
taken the time to learn about them. expert on escapements wrote it just
Their lack of willingness to work for this book. This book is worth
on them can be a source of its purchase price just for the
business for you once you master explanation of the Graham dead-
the easily understood setup and beat escapement alone.
adjustment procedures. Charles
Terwilliger’s Horolovar 400-Day Black Forest Clockmaker and the
Clock Repair Guide book contains Cuckoo Clock by Karl Kochman is
almost everything you will ever another worthy addition to your
want to know about 400-day Horological library. It is well
clocks. It starts with the history of illustrated, being loaded with high
the 400-day clock and finishes quality photographs and drawings.
with the repair and adjustment of There is no other book like this
the movement. This is an excellent one – this one shows the Black
book and if you plan to work on Forest cuckoo clock like it has
400-day clocks you will need it. never been shown before. Not only
However as good as this book is, does it cover the history of Black
there are some simple adjustment Forest clockmaking but it also
procedures that aren’t included in shows construction methods and
the book. These procedures can be details along with original carving
found in the E-Book Adjusting the techniques and tools. It shows how
73
What’s Next?
to date your clock so you can tell properly. This book diagnoses
when it was made. It also has problems and corrects faults in all
information on the quail and the manner of clocks. Once the fault is
highly collectable Trumpeter diagnosed the book goes into great
clock. But more importantly to the detail on how to make the required
clock repairer, it shows methods of repair.
restoring the works and cases.
There is information in this book There is a new clock repair book
that you won’t find elsewhere. presently on the market; Practical
This book and Balcomb’s The Course in Clock Repair by J. P.
Clock Repair Primer – The Kenyon which was first published
Beginners Handbook are the only in 2005. In hasn’t received wide
two books available on cuckoo distribution yet, but I’m confident
clock repair. it will become a repair book
classic. Almost everything you
The next book, The Clock need to know is here. It covers the
Repairer’s Handbook by Laurie basic skills, lathe work,
Penman is worth its weight in gold Horological calculations, theory of
just because of the fault-finding escapements and pendulums, and
chart that’s included. Utilizing this then goes into different clock
chart one can easily track down mechanisms and their repair.
why a clock isn’t operating
Nice to Have Books:

Here I have included books that although not immediately necessary to a
fledging clock repair career they are none the less great reference books that
you will refer to time and time again. These include:
Watch & Clock Information Please! by William H. Samelius

The Best of J. E. Coleman: Clockmaker edited by Orville R. Hagans
Dictionary of Clocks and Watches by Eric Bruton
Britten’s Watch & Clock Makers Handbook by F. J. Britten
Clock Design & Construction by Laurie Penman
Watch & Clock Encyclopedia by Donald de Carle
Bench Practices for Watch and Clockmakers by Henry B. Fried
The Clock & Watch Pronunciary by Malcolm C. Gerschler
Clock & Watch Trademark Index of European Origin by Karl Kochman
74
Appendix
Clock Supply Houses:

The following is a list of Clock Supply houses that I have used in the past.
They are listed alphabetically, not in any order of merit or preference. I have
found them all to be highly professional, very helpful and extremely
courteous. Prices may vary from house to house for the same item depending
upon inventory levels, sales, etc., so it may pay to shop around.
Empire Clock, Inc.

1295 Rice St.
St Paul, MN 55117
Website www.empireclock.com
Phone (800) 333-8463
Fax (800) 285-0085
Merritt’s Antiques Inc.

1860 Weaverton Rd
POB 277
Douglas, PA 19518-0277
Website www.merritts.com
Phone (610) 689-9541
Fax (610) 689-4538
E-mail order@merritts.com
Timesavers
Box 12700
Scottsdale, AZ 85267
Website www.timesavers.com
Phone (800) 552-1520
Fax (800) 552-1522
E-mail info@timesavers.com
75
Appendix
Professional Organizations:
National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors (NAWCC)
514 Poplar St
Columbus, PA 17512
Phone (717) 684-8261
Website www.nawcc.org
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI)

701 Enterprise Dr
Harrison, OH 45030-1696
Phone (513) 367-9800
Fax (513) 367-1414
Website www.awci.com
British Horological Institute (BHI)

Upton Hall, Upton
Newark, Notts.
NG23 5TE
United Kingdom
Phone (01636) 813795
Fax (01636) 812258
E-mail info@bhi.co.uk
Website www.bhi.co.uk
Interesting Web Sites:

Horology Index:
www.horology.com. This site tries to be an index for all horological sites on
the internet. An awesome task – well worth a visit.
Horological Message Boards:

Both of these organizations have message boards open to the public where
you can ask questions – get help etc. Both of these sites need to be checked
often because there are lots of members and they are always coming up with
something new.
HTTP:www.nawcc.org.
HTTP:whmb.webhorology.com.
HTTP://www.ihc185.infopop.cc
76
Escapement Animations:
All of these sites have animated escapements that you can study in slow
motion.
WWW.clockwatch.de.
HTTP:en.wikipedia.org/wiki/escapements.
Training Videos, CD’s:

This site has clock, watch and metalworking how-to cd’s available for rent
for a reasonable fee.
WWW.smartflix.com.
Prices Guides:
This is a commercial site that lists the prices of 1000’s of clocks.
WWW.antiqueclockspriceguide.com.
Timing Machines:
This site is a web based PC timing machine. This utilizes your computer to
help you time your clock.
WWW.home.teleport.com/~gregsa/clocks/wtm/.
The End
GOOD LUCK IN YOUR NEW

ADVENTURE!!
77
Appendix
NOTES
78

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Getting Started in Clock Repair

For Fun or Profit

Dedicated to my loving wife and best friend, Joyce.

Illustrations by Russell Turpin ME

Published by The Blue Parrot Publishing Company, Columbia SC USA.

Printed in the United States of America.

easily understood explanation of

It is recommended that you order your

Anchor: An anchor shaped piece of steel that is oscillated to and fro

Arbor: The axle or shaft upon which a clock wheel or pinion is

Bob: The weight on the end of a pendulum.

Cannon Tube: Sometimes referred to as the hour tube. A long tube to

Center Wheel: The wheel attached to the Center Wheel Arbor.

Chime Train: A series of wheels and pinions designed to play a

Click: A horological term for the pawl of a pawl and ratchet

Count Wheel Striking: One method of counting or controlling the

Crutch: An arm that connects the escapement to the pendulum and

End Shake: Freedom of movement, end to end of an arbor between

Entry Pallet: The pallet first reached by an advancing tooth of the

Escapement: A device designed to change the rotating force of the

Exit Pallet: The last pallet to be engaged by a tooth of the escape

First Wheel: See Main Wheel.

First Wheel Arbor: See Winding Arbor.

Fourth Wheel: The fourth wheel in the train.

Gears: A gear in clockwork is called a wheel if it has more than 20

Great Wheel: See Main Wheel

Great Wheel Arbor: See Winding Arbor

Hairspring Balance: A wheel, in conjunction with a hairspring, which

Horology: A broad term having anything to do with watch or

Hour Wheel: A wheel of the motion works to which a long tube,

Intermediate Wheel: See Second Wheel.

Lantern Pinion: A very functional but cheaper pinion that resembles a

Leaves: Teeth on a pinion, teeth on a wheel are called teeth.

Minute Pinion: This is a part of the motion works. It is part of a

Minute Wheel: This is part of the motion works. It is mounted on the

Motion Works: A combination of gears that produces a 12:1 gear ratio

Pallet: That part of an anchor that the teeth of an escape wheel

Pendulum Rod: The rod holding the pendulum bob.

Pinion: A gear in clockwork with 20 or less leaves.

Rack & Snail Striking: One method of counting or controlling the

Ratchet Wheel: A wheel mounted on the winding arbor that meshes

Strike Train: A Series of wheels and pinions designed to strike a gong

Suspension Spring: A thin flat spring attached to a pendulum rod from

Third Wheel: The third wheel in the train.

Train: A series of wheels (gears) connected together.

Winding Arbor: Sometimes referred to as the First Wheel Arbor or the

Wheel: In clockwork a gear with more than 20 teeth.

Styles & Types: balance can control the rate of the

FIG 2. Time & Strike Movement

FIG 3. Three Train Wall Clock

How Does A Clock Work?

E verything a clock is designed to do all starts with the minute hand, or

Driving Force or Power:

mainspring unwinds it rotates the two exceptions to this that will be

The gears used in clockwork are

wheel which is usually the smallest. This arrangement allows to wheels to

FIG 7. 8-Day Time Only Gear Train

impossible to stop the first wheel or mainwheel by grasping it in your whole

The four-wheel English clock train is illustrated only to demonstrate a

pendulum for a particular clock. It is usual in most of the English, French

The anchor contains the

To more fully describe the operation of the escapement the

Controlling Mechanisms: Pendulums and Balance