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Bain marie – a container of simmering water, in which heat-safe beakers of ingredients are placed to heat or melt
them gently
Cure – the process by which the liquid in a soap evaporates over time, making the soap gentler on the skin
DOS: acronym that stands for “dreaded orange spots” in soap making jargon. They are rancid oil spots that may
develop on your soap, and often have an unpleasant rancid smell, which is similar to crayons.
Emulsification: the result of a chemistry reaction that happens when oils and water combine together thanks to the
help of an emulsifier. In soap making, this is possible thanks to the use of sodium hydroxide.
False trace: an issue that occurs when the oils and lye solution temporarily emulsify, but then the batter splits
shortly afterwards due to the lack of temperature to support the saponification reaction.
Gel phase: a reaction that happens during the heating phase of the saponification process, and makes the soap look
translucent and gel-like. This reaction will make the colours in the soap pop out more.
Glycerin: a humectant which draws water into the skin, making it feel soft. The soap making reaction naturally
produces glycerin, which is what makes soap gentle and moisturising for the skin.
Glycerin rivers: river-looking formations of glycerin, which solidify unevenly in your soap due to a mistake during
the soap making process, which usually has to do with temperature.
Lye or sodium hydroxide – a highly alkaline substance which is dissolved in water or another suitable liquid to
make the lye solution.
Lye solution: the liquid solution created by adding sodium hydroxide into water or another liquid
Lye water: the liquid solution created by adding sodium hydroxide into water
Lye heavy – a soap that contains too much lye and is therefore unsafe to be used.
SAP – saponification value of an oil: the number of milligrams of sodium hydroxide required to saponify 1 gram of
oil
Saponification – the chemical reaction in which the fats and oils react with the lye to form soap
Shelf life – the length of time an ingredient will stay fresh in storage
DOMESTIKA.ORG
Glossary
Course by Marta Tarallo
Supplemental Resources
Soda ash – a harmless, thin white layer that can form on the soap when air gets in contact with unreacted sodium
hydroxide
Sodium lactate: a sodium salt of natural lactic acid produced by fermentation from vegetable derived sugar that
makes the soap longer lasting and makes it look very sleek and polished, removing some of the stickiness that
sometimes soap has. Usually available as a 60% liquid solution.
Superfatting – a method of discounting the amount of sodium hydroxide required to leave more oil in the soap,
making it gentler to the skin. The process is called superfatting because you are leaving some oils in the soap
unsaponified making the soap ‘fatter’.
Trace – this is when your soap batter has the consistency of a light, smooth custard. If you let the soap batter drip
onto its own surface it will leave a trail behind. You then know that the soap has definitely emulsified and won’t
split, and can therefore be poured into the mould.
DOMESTIKA.ORG