NO.

25 NOTESFROMTHESHOP $2s0

TAMBOUR
VIDEOCABINET
TURNEDCANISTER
SET
OAKCOFFEETABLE
TECHNIQUE,
STAVE
CONSTRUCTION

3:.

N
 ABOUTTHIS
Sawdust
IssUE.I haveto admit some- section in this issue: an index to the con-
U
thing. I've always been fascinated with tents of the first 24 issues of Woodsmith,
tambours (roll-tops). And it doesn't take plus a pageof sourcesfor mail-order wood-
Editor much to talk me into building a project working catalogs.
Donald B. Peschke with one of these "moving wood" doors. The index shouldhelp locatearticles and
DesignDirector When we were building the video cabi- projects in past issues. We'll up-date it
Ted Krallcek net for this issue, I thought it was a good again next year in the January issue'
opportunity to include a tambour. But this The list of catalogsincludesalmost all of
AssistantEditor riised a question of practicality' Would the mail-order sourceswe've used for the
Steve Krohmer anyonereally lower the tambour to cover- projects shown in past issues of Wood-
GraphicDesigners up the T.V. screen? smith. This list is by no meansa complete
Davld Kreyllng After we finished this cabinet, I took it accountingofall the catalogsavailable,but
MarclaSlmmons homefor a few weeks, and found I couldn't it doesincludesomeofthe best sourcesfor
resist closing the tambour every oncein a tools and supplies we know of.
Subscription Manager while. It was then I discoveredthat once But why do those catalog comPanies
SandyJ. Baum the T.V. was out of sight . . . well, I com- make you pay for what is essentiallya book
Subscription Assistants pletely forgot about Love Boat and Fan- of advertising?
Chrlstel Mlner tasy Island. (Maybe this tambour is more Granted, the catalog comPaniesare
Vlcky Roblnson practical than I thought.) "selling" an advertisement. But I think
Klm Melton PHorocRAPHS.There's something dif- they're worth it. (And I didn't even get
Jackle Stroud ferent about the photographsin this issue. paid to say that.) I've learneda great deal
Shlrley Feltman We'vebeenexperimentingwitha new pho- from these catalogs- just knowing that a
tographicprocess.In past issues,all ofthe certain tool or a piece of hardware is avail-
Computer Operations photographs were printed in a process able is worth a buck or two.
Ken Mlner known as a duo-tone.This is basicallya PUBLISHER'S STATEMENT. ONCC CACh
Administrative Assistant black-and-white photo that's printed in year we're required (by the Post office) to
Cheryl Scott two colors (brown and black in our case). include the Publisher's Statement shown
The photos in this issue are still printed below.Last year, this statementshoweda
in only two colors (which is why green total circulation of about 30,000. Now
leaves Iook brown in the photo on the we're up to 74,000.But that was as of the
cover), but we've changedthe way the Septemberissue.With this issue,the total
ISSN:0164'4114 photographsare processedso they have a circulationis 110,000,and growing'
published bimonthly(January, Iittle more life in them. This kind ofgrowth hasput a few strains
WOODSMITH is
November) by We're still in the experimental stages on all of us here at Woodsmith. And this is
March,May,July, September,
Publishing Company, 1912 Grand with this new approach, but I think it's one of the reasons we're behind schedule
Woodsmith
Ave.,Des Moines,lowa50309. kind of exciting. It should improve the for getting the issues out on time.
registered trademark of the quality of the photos so you get a much NExTMAILINc.The next issueof Wood-
WOOOSMITH is a
better picture of what the projects really snlilb (No. 26)will be in the mail during the
Woodsmith Publishing Company.
ocopyrlght1983by WoodsmithPublishing look like. frst week in April. Until then, thanks for
INDEx. We're including a special 4-page your patience.
Company. All RightsReserved.
Subecrlptlons: Oneyear(6 issues)$10,Two
years(12issues)$18.Singlecopyprice,$2.50 STATEMENTOF OWNERSHIP,MANAGEMENTAND CIRCULATION
(Requiredby 39 U.S.C. 3685)
(Canadaand Foreign: add $2 per year.)
t. Title of Publication:Woodsmith. 1a. Publication No.: 01644114.2. Date of Filing: September30, 1982.3. Frequency of issue:
ChangeOf Addrees:Pleasebesureto include Bimonthly. 3a. No. of issuesannually:six (6). 3b. Annual subscriptionprice: E10.00.4. Completemailing-addressof known offrceof
bothyourold and new addressfor changeof publication:1912GrandAvenue, Des Moines,(Polk County), Iowa 50309.5. Complete mailing-address ofthe headquartersofgeneral
offrcesof the publisher: 1912Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Iowa 50309.6. Complete addressof publisher, editor, and
Mailto: Woodsmith,
address. 1912GrandAve., Lusiness
managingeditor:Publisher:DonaldB. Peschke,1912Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Iowa50309, Editor: (same aspublisher),Managing
DesMoines,lowa50309. Editoi (n-one). ?. Owner: DonaldB. Peschke,1912Grand Avenue, Des Moines,Iowa 50309.8. Known bondholders,mortgagees,and
security holdersoming 1 percentor more oftotal amountofbond, mortgagesor other securities:None. 9. (doesnot apply) 10
Second class poetage pald at Des Moines, other Extent and nature of circulation:
lowa.
Actual no. copies
Postmaster:Send changeof addressnotice, Average no. copies of single issue
Form3579,to Woodsmith Publishing Co.,1912 each issue during published nearest
preceding 12 months to frling date
GrandAve.,DesMoines,lowa50309. (SePt.,1982)
BACKISSUES A. Total no. copiesprinted (net press run) 54'832 80,782
B. Paid Circulation
A listof the contentsof all backissuesappears 1. Sales through dealers and cmiers, street vendors
1,185 1,781
on the wrapperof this issue.lf the wrapperis and countcr sales
2 . M a i ls u b s c r i p t i o.n. .s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48,938 72,53r
missing, you can sendfor a bookletdescribing C. Total paid circulation(Sumof 1081nd 1082) ..... " ' 50,123 74.312
the contentsand pricesof all backissues. D. Free distribution by mail, canier or other means
2tB
samples,complimentary, and other free copies..........
E . T o t a ld i s t r i b u t i o (nS u mo f C a n d D ) . . . . . . . . . . . 50,144 74,335
SAMPLECOPIES F. Copiesnot distributed
1. bffr." ur", left over, unaccounted,spoiled after printing 4'624 6'424 t
lf youhavea friendwhowouldliketo seea copy 2 . R e t u m sf r o m n e w sa g e n t s. . . . . . . . . . M
ofWoodsmlth, justsendthenameandaddress, G. Total(SumofE,FlandF2)........'..... M'852 80,782
11. I certiiy that the statementsmade by me above are conect and complete.(signed)Donald B. Peschke,Publisher/Editor
andwe'llsenda sample(at no cost).

Woopsurru
U
n
P H Y S | C Sr O l
router and a trammel point on the back ing fixtures, but it doestake a little time
side of the blank. and patience.The end result is three abso-
Recently,I experiencedconsiderabiediffi- Then I position the jig on the router Iutely flat surfaces.
culty trying to put a sandingsleeveon my table so that the bit is only taking a light
S. W. Hathawag
drum sander.Then I remembereda trick I cut whenthe blank is held againstthe sides
Sudburu . M assachusetts
learnedin my high schoolphysicsclass. of the "V". After the jig is clamped in
To reducethe size of the sandingdrum p o s i t i o n , t h e b l a n k s a r e r o u t e d i n a
ARTIST'5 rnlnr.rOr.rS
so that the sleeve would slin on without counter-clockwise direction,keepingpres-
difficulty, I put the drum into the freezer sure against both sides of the jig, and I have a suggestionfor quick and accurate
for about fifteen minutes. As the drum againstthe surfaceof the table. settingof the miter gaugeon the tablesaw.
coolsoff, it contracts enoughso that the For commonangles(30', 45', 60', 90'), I
Brian Smith
sandingsleevecan be slipped on without use good 12"-14"drafting triangles (avail-
Keyser, West Virginia
any problems. able at art supply stores)to set the miter
gauge. They're extremely accurate, and
Datid l{. Bower A N I N E X P E N S I VDER I t t I N GJ I G
you get the sameangle every time.
Laurerts, SouthCarolina
I use a piece of Masonitepeg board as a
Bruce Walduogel
markinggaugeto drill evenlyspacedholes
ROUTINGEDGES ON SMAtt CIRCTES Manteno, I\Iinois
in cabinetsides,etc. The advantageofpeg
I've comeup with a jig to useon the router boardis that you cancut it to the sizeofthe
D O V E T A ICTH I S E T S
table that eliminatesa lot of the problems piece being drilled, and then just hold it
associated with routing the edgesofround againstthe side ofthe cabinet.It's easyto I'd like to makea suggestionto the readers
blanks.First of all. it makesrouting small keepeverythingflush and square,and the of Woodsm,ith that I find to be very helpful
round blanksa whole lot saferthan trying holesare evenly spacedevery time. when hand-cuttingiap dovetails.
to rout them free hand. Second,you can I've found that the hardest part in cut-
RaLphScott
rout the edgesof round blanks using bits ting lap dovetailsis cleaningout the waste
Wood\and,. Ca,lifonlia

CARRIAGE
BOTIS
I've found that whenever I'm using car-
v riage bolts in wood, the square shoulder
(that's supposedto hold the bolt securely)
has a tendencyto slip when I'm trying to
remove a nut on the other end.
What I've done to counterthis effect is
to cut a slot into the end of the bolt with a
hacksaw.Then as I'm removingthe bolt, I
can insert a screw driver in the end ofthe
bolt to keep it from turning.
that have no pilot bearings (sincethe jig This has beenparticularly helpful when in the cornersbetweenthe nins. What I've
itself limits the u'idth of cut the bit makes). working with woods that have deter- done to eliminatethis aggravationis pur-
And finally, when it comestime to rout ioraled from age, or when the nuts on chase two inexpensive %" chisels and
the edgeon the finishsicleofa round blank, c a r r i a g e b o l t s h a v e t o b e r e m o v e d regrind them at a skew (one has a 15"
I can do it accuratelywithout having to frequently. right-handedskew, and the other hasa 15"
mar the face of the blank with a tramtnel left-handedskew).
point (whichrequiresdrilling a holeon the PauI Ingmanson
The long point of the skewed chisels
Marseilles, Illinois
facesidesof a blank for the trammel point really helps to get into the tight corners
to ride in.) between the pins when it comestime to
IT TAKESTHREE IO GETONE
To make the jig, I used a piece of 3/n" cleaneverything up.
plywood approximately 12" x 30". Then I In Woodsm,ithNo. 23, you described a
madetwo cuts for the openingas shownin techniqueto flatten the bottom of a hand John R. Mountjoy
Winston-Salem, N orth CaroLina
the diagram.(I tried to keepthe two sides plane using two surfaces.To be honest,
ofthe "V" at a 45'angle from the front side you must have gotten lucky becausethe
of the jig). Then where the two sidesof the only way to get a truely flat surfaceis by
"V" meet, I cut a 3" square opening for using three surfaces,not two.
clearancearound the router bit. Start by marking the surfaces1,2, and lf you'dliketosharea woodworking tipwithother
Next, I attacheda hinged bit guard to 3. Then rub surfaces I and 2 together readersol Woodsmith, send your idea to:
the backsideofthe S"squareopening.This (usingthe siliconcarbideslurry as an abra- Woodsmith, Tips & Techniques, 1912Grand
way, the guard canbe flippedup out ofthe sive)until they showgoodcontactall over. Ave.,DesMoines,lowa50309.
way when not in use. Then rub surfaces2 and 3 together, and Wepaya minimum of $10fortips,and$15or
y To usethejig, I've foundthe key thingto finally surfaces3 and 1. By using finer and morefor specialtechniques (thatare accepted
watch for is that the round blanks are cut finer gradesofsiliconcarbideslurries,you forpublication).Pleasegivea completeexplana-
out as cleanly as possible.And the best can get any degreeof polish you want. tionof youridea,lf a sketchis needed,sendit
method I've found to do this is to use the This methoddoesn'ttake anv fancvhold- along;we'lldrawa newone.

Woopsurru
 Shq&ge cabinet
A PLACEFOREVERYTHING
"Wheream I goingto put all this stuffl I've
run out of baby-foodjars and little plastic
drawers;and I needa placeto put all these
screws,brads,sandpaper,bolts, nuts, and
a dozenlittle tools.
"How abouta cabinet?Somethingabout
the sizeofa three-drawerfile cabinetthat
doesn't take up much floor space. That
shouldwork. And it should have a lot of
shallow drawers . . . and the drawers
shouldhave 'modular'dividersthat canbe
arrangedany way I want them."
I had these thoughts one Saturdayas I
was going through my monthly "clean
everything in the shop" routine. I was
getting frustrated with little plastic
drawers that don't hold enough, and big
workbench drawers that force you to pile
toois on top of tools.
a
I finally decidedto build this ShopStor- In addition to being multiples of each
ageCabinet.It takesup lessthan 2 square other, the dimensionsof these drawers
feet of floor space,yet there's almost 13 allow you to cut all the piecesfrom stan-
squarefeet of storagearea. dard constructionlumber (1x4'sand 1x6's)
with very little waste (see Cutting Dia-
THEDRAWERS gram on page 7).
The cabinet shown here has 12 drawers: One last thing, these drawers are de-
six small, five medium, and one large signedto take full advantageof multiple-
drawer. However, the sizeand number of cutting techniques.Onceyou make a set-
the drawers can be altered to suit your ting for one drawer, it's the same on all
needs. Each drawer is a multiple of the drawers (no matter what size they are).
others: A medium-sizedrawer takes up T H EC A B I N E T
e x a c t l y t w i c e t h e s p a c eo f t w o s m a l l
drawers.And the large drawer equalsone In normal construction procedures,you
medium and one small drawer. (If I were woulddecideon the sizeof the cabinetfirst
buildinganothercabinet,I'd skip the large and then build the drawers to fit the cabi- V
drawer and replace it with three smali net. But sincethere are so many drawers,
drawers. These small drawers are really I wanted to simplify the drawer con-
handy for all sorts of things.) struction as much as possible.
Wooostvtttu
 The best approach, I decided, would be
to determine the final dimensions of the
drawers (so they would be easy to cut), and
then build the cabinet to accept these
drawers.
After a little experimenting I found it
works best if the outside dimensions of the
drawers are lSYq"wide by 15X" cleep. This
gave me the dimensions I neecled fol the
cabinet.
TOP AND tsOTTOM.F irst cut tu'o pieces
for the top and bottom ofthe cabinet 15%"
wide (this is the clepth of dran'ers). The
l e n g t h o f t h e s e p i e c e si f 1 { i ; - ' t t h i s a l l o u ' s
slDE Al
l1Vq"for the width of the dlau'er', plus %" v
(TWOPTECES)
for clearanceon the sirles.lrlus 1: :" for the
rabbets used to attach the cabinet sides.)
Then cut t/2"\:t' i' r'abbctson the ends of
the both pieces,see l-ig. l. Also cut a %" x *=-%" RABBEI r 7r"
1/2"rabbeL on the back erlge tto attach the DEEPON BACK EDGE
cabinet's back).
T H E S I I ) E S .T h e s i r i e s h a l e a l o t o f
grooves for the drari'cl rLlnners (see I'ig.
1), and I u'anterl to rnake sure these
'I
grooves lined up perlrctll ln both sides. ATI GROOVES
t/z', ttflDE x tA', DEE?
To do this, I cut a 1rir,ct, ,rf plvu'ooclto the
.final letrytlt of the sirlts. but lrlrce the
z.uidlft(plus a littlr r.\ira lor tlim). This
way I coukl cut all tht, {l'(){rvesat the same
time in this ont rlriihlt.-n'irle rvorkpiece.
Then I lipperl tht \\'o1'k11i1'c't' to get two
sides *'ith 1rt,rli.cth'nratcht,rlgl'ooves.
To stalt. I cut thr u llkpiece to a rough
width of ;Jf anrl :,' :ht. tinal lensth of the
side piecestiJ-1:' .t.t. I'ig. 1. This length
measul'cnrenl ali,rr': irrt' the amount of
spacererluirerl irl tht. 1f rllau'ers (includ-
ing clealancer, 1rlLrs I t'ol the ts'o %"-deep
r a b b e t s o n t h f t ( ) l )a n t l h o t t o n i p i e c e s .
G R O O \ ' t l St ' o l t R t ' \ \ U H S . N o w t h e
grooves for the l'unnlr': (an be cut 7:" wicle
by %" deep. I cLrttht.se gl'ooveson a table
saw with a cla<kr biarlr. l'ht,n.reasurements
for these cuts tsh,,srr in l'ig. 1) are the
distance fronr the. li,nt't, to the "beginning"
edge of the glot,r't.
I'm using the ttlnr "bt'ginning" edge
becausethe six g1'o{,\'rsat the top of the
cabinet are cut ri'ith the lrrTredge of the
workpiece against the tence. But the lower /. GLUEAND NAII (B '
five grooves al'e cut rvith the Doilorrredge dT--CORNER JOINT r/i' RAaBEIx t/2" DEEP
of the workpiece against the fence. Note:
There's no need for a gloove (<lr a runner)
for the bottom dlau'er'.
RIP TOwtI)TH. After the grooves are cut
in the double-u'ideu'orkpiece, rip the two
sides to final g'idth to match the ton and
bottom. Then cut a rabbct on the back eclee
of both pieces for the cabinet's back.
ASSEMBLY.Before the top, bottom and
sides are assembled, I cut the %" Masonite
back to final size. Then glue and nail the
four pieces for the cabinet together, and
(D)
also glue and nail the back in place. (The
t back will help hold the assembly square).
Finally, I added edging strips to the
/r" MASONITE
BACK

front on the cabinet (to cover the exposed NAII. BACK IN PTACE
plywood edges), see Fig. 3.

WooosurrH
 DRAWER
CONSIRUCTION SMAII. DRAWERDIVIDER
The constructionmethod I used for these r4%"---+l
drawersis a little out of the ordinary, and li-'s%"-----
-@ Il* : v
probably neeclsand explanation. _f.E 'ta-Es-Gtl
The strangestthing about these draw- ,',,n-,t,"-- l3h
ers is that the sides extend beyond the MEDIUMDRAWER
SIDE MEDIUMDRAWER
FRONT/BACK MEDIUM DRAWER DIVIDER

drawer'sfront and back.This was donefor 14v4

a-tsv. ?
two reasons.F irst, I neededa little extra T- r r
"meat" at the front and backto strengthen 3rAi ro PrEcEs@ O ro PrEcEs G) 27/a" 4 PtEcES o
the tongue and groovejoint. I I I

The other reasonhas to do with what I

clidn'twant to happen.I didn't want to put IARGE DRAWERSIDE IARGE DRAWERFRONT/BACK TARGEDRAWERDIVIDER

a stop on the drawer (so I couldpull it out | | 5r/o t4'"4

-f- l f
easily and take it wherever I neecledit),
but at the sametime, I didn't want to pull
the clrawerout too far andhaveit fall down
I 2 PtEcEs (a
I
57Ao Or 2 ptEcEs N
T-
4,ta r PrEcE @
anclhit my toe.
To get the bestof both worlds,I simply
I I l._

lengthenedthe drawer sides so they ex-

tendedbeyondthe drawer's back. As the
drawer is puiled out, you naturally stop
whenyou seethe drawer back.But ifyou
pull a little too far on these drawers,
there'sstill enoughleft on the drawer sides
so they don't fall out of the cabinet.
T H EC U T T I N G
SEQUENCE 2ndCUT
t/a" x t/e"

Now the fun begins.I spentthe better part DRAWERSIDE-INSIDE

FACE GROOVE %"
FROM BOTTOM
of a day cutting all the piecesfor the 12
drawers. To speed things along, I made
multiple cuts: Once the saw is set up to _I
-l
makea cut, I madethis cut on all pieces.I l,i
usedthe following sequenceof cuts.
l. cUTT()ROUGH LENGTH. I find thingsgo
;,;p- -
much easier if I'm working with small
pieces.So I started by cutting enough FACE
FRONT/8ACK-INSIDE

piecesfor the sides,fronts, backsand cli-

viders (plus a feu'extra piecesto use for
test cuts) to a rough length of 15%".
This rough length easily accommodates
the final lengthsneedeclfor all the pieces,
anclalsoallowsyou to get six fuli cuts out of
an 8' board (allowing %" for the kerf).
VIEW
FRONT/BACK.TOP
2.TRIMTOLIINGTH. Next, I useda panel
cutting jig (shown on page 13) to trim all -t
these pieces to their final length, see TONGUE
l'ig. 5. VIEW
DIVIDER.TOP ON ENDS
3 .R I P r O w I D r H . A l l o f t h e s e r o u g h
piecesare ripped to final width to get the
four basic pieces for each drawer (the
front, the back, and the two sides).
Note: The dividers (which are optional)
are a total of %,i' narrower than the four
basic piecesto allow Vz"for the drawer
bottom and %,i' clearancebelow the top
edge of the drawer sides.
1.SELECTIoN. Whenthe piecesarecut to IOOVE FOR
sOTTOM
final width and length, mark what each
pieceis (to avoidconfusion),and alsomark
the insidefaceof eachpiece.
5. DADOES. Now, a whole bunch of Vt" x
%" dadoesmust be cut in all these pieces.
The position of these dadoesis such that
you can set the distancefrom the fenceto
the insideofthe dadoblade,andmakea cut NOTCH FOR HANDTC
on oneend,then turn the piecearoundand
cut the other end.

Wooosl,ltrH
 I worked on all the side piecesfirst, see
Fig. 6. The dadoeson the front and back
piecesand the dividers are all the same
v (seeFig. 7), exceptthe dividersare cut on
both sides.
6.TONGUES. After the dadoeswere cut, I
cut the tongueson the endsofthe front and
back pieces to fit snugly in the dadoes.
(This is just a matter of cutting two rab-
bets on eachend to leave a tongue.)Then
reset the saw to cut tongueson the divi-
ders so they fit somewhatloosely in the
dadoes.(You want to be able to remove
these dividers easily.)
It's best to make test cuts for these
tongueson a pieceofscrap first. Thenjoin
TOWARDCORNEROF NOICH DRAWERRUNNER
this test piecebetweentwo sides'uocheck
the final width. (This test assemblyshould
MATERIATSI,IST
fit between the sides of the cabinet with
abott t/s"of clearance.) Dimensions: 35t/z"H x 16,h"W - lSt/z"D
?.GROOVE FORBOTTOM. Cut a groovefor
A Plywood Sides (2) 3AxlSt/z-34t/z
the drawer bottom on the insideedgeof all 3/qx 15t/a - 167/s
B Pfywood Top/Bof (2)
the fronts, backs and sides. This gl'oove
c Mosonite Drqwer Bol (l2lr/a x 141/4- ll3h
starts %"from the bottom edgeandis wide
D Mo3onite Cose Bock (l ) t/c x 341/z- l63h
enoughto accepta %" Masonitebottom.
E Mosonite Dividerc cut to fii
8.RABBETFORRUNNER. Next, rabbets 3hxltt/tc-l5t/a
F S m o l l S i d e s( I 2 )
are cut on the outside,bottom edgesofthe 3hxltVtc-141,/q
G Smoll Fronts (6)
sidesto fit the drawer runners. To get a 3/qx ltt/tc - 141/c
H S m o l l B o c k s( 6 )
smoothcut here, I cut theserabbetson the
I Smoll Dividers (6) lqx7t/a-141/c
router table with a straight bit. 3/axt/z-15
J Runners (24)
9.NOTCH FoRHANDLES. The final step is t/zx1/z-l1t/q
K H o n d l e s( 1 2 )
to matchup pairs of drawer sidesandmark 3hx57Ao-151h
t lorge Sides (2)
the front edges. Then cut a %"-deepby 3hx57Ac-141/q
M L o r g eF r o n t ( l )
v "/i'-high notch on the front edge of each N lorge Bock(l) 3/cxS'Ac-141/c
side piecefor the drawer's handle.
10.DRAWER
o l o r g e D i v i d e r( l ) 3/qx47A-141/t
BOTTOMS. Dry-assemblethe 3/qx37/rc-l5t/c
P M e d i u m S i d e s( 1 0 )
four piecesfor the drawer to get the mea-
surementsfor the drawer bottom. (I cut all o Medium Fronts (5) lcx37/tc-l4t/t
R Medium Bocks (5) 3hx3r/to-14t/a
the bottoms out of r/a"Masonite.)
11.ASSEMBLY. F'inally,the drawers can
s Medium Dividers (4) 3h x 27h - l4t/q

be assembled.Appiy glue to the tongue CUTTING DIAGRAM

and groovejoints and join the four pieces
and the drawer bottom. (I tacked a small %" PLYWOOD %" MASONITE 48" x 96"
brad through the drawer side to hold each
joint together while the glue dried.) E

%
1 2 ,D R A W E RH A N D L E ST. h e d r a w e r
handles are ripped Vz"wide from some of
the remaining stock. Then they're glued
and nailedinto the notchon the front edee c U
of the drawer'ssides,seeFig. 9.
13.RUNNERS. If all has gone well, the
drawers will fit in the cabinetwilh a total
of /a" of play. All you need now are the
runners. I ripped Vz"-widestrips from
some of the remaining stock. Then I re-
sawedeachstrip so there would be about
|Aa"clearancebetween the runner and the
rabbeton the drawer side,see Fig. 11. L L M N o
14.DIVIDERS. Use the remainingMason-
ite to cut dividers for the drawers. (Some
of the options are shown in the detail
photoson page4.) Sincethesedividersare
'ril
not gluedinto the dadoes,they may havea
tendencyto raise up. I cut them about %a"
v less than the height of the drawer sides).
r5.CASTERS. I addedfour swivel casters
to the bottom of this cabinet so I could
move it where I neededit.

Wooosurru
 StaveConstruction
THATTURNSINVISIBLE
JOINERY
Almost every turning project begins by
gluing up enoughwoodto work with. This
usuaily means laminating several small
piecesto get one big chunk of wood.
If the shapeyou're working with is a
cylinder, the size (and weight) of that
chunkofwood can quickly get out ofhand
. . . unlessyou use stave construction.
This methodof laminatingis just a vari-
ation on a mitered frame. The only differ-
enceis that the miters (or bevels in this
case)are cut on the sides of each board,
rather than on the ends.
Then theseboardsare glued togetherto
form a six, eight, ten or twelve-sided
"cylinder." It's just like building a barrel
(or a hot tub, for those of you under 40).
The result of this methodof laminationis
a woodturner's dream come true. Stave
constructioneliminatesthe naggingprob-
lem of end grain on the perimeter of the
cylinder.
The biggestadvantage,however,is cost
savings, Stave construction uses very
little lumber becausethe whole point is to
create an almost round surface to begin
with. This, of course,also speedsup the
turning process.
CHOOSINGTHEWOOD
The first step in stave constructionis to
choosethe lumber. From a visual stand-
point, certain types of wood work better
for this type of assembly.In fact, if the
right type of wood is used, the joint lines
are almost invisible. (Thus, the cylinder
doesn'tlook like a bunch of scrapsglued
together.)
The best woods are the open-grained
species:oak, ash, butternut, walnut and
mahogany.(I used butternut for on the
canistersshown in the following article,
and koa for the bowl on page24.)
There'sone other factor in choosingthe
wood.If the lumber is warped,twisted, or
bowed, it's almost impossibleto cut the
stavescorrectly.And the joints wiil never
be tight. The solution is to use only flat, multipliedby 16- a t/a"error in the bevel
straight (expensive)wood.
THENU'IABER OF SIDES
Oncethe woodhasbeenselected,the next gaps.
hurdle is decidingthe number of sidesfor
the cylinder. This soundssimple enough, get around this problem is to make two
but it takes someplanning.
The ultimate goalis to turn a cylinder (a assemblyconsistsof one-halfthe total
true circle)out of a bevel-rippedassembly. number of sides.
Which means a circle has to fit within a
cross-section of the assembledpieces. . . that they can be sandedto mate perfectly
andthere hasto be enoughwidth to get the (whichwe'll get to later). (This alsomeans
wall thicknessneededfor a cvlinder.
v
The best way to determine the "right" sidesso it can be divided into halves.)
number of sidesfor the size cylinder you Although somecorrectionscan be made
want is to draw it out on paperfirst. For all on these sub-assemblies,it's rather im-
four canistersshownin the next article, I portant to get as close as possiblewhen
knew I wanteda wall thicknessof '/*",plus cutting the bevels. (For eight-sidedas-
at least %" for waste (when truing up the semblythe blade angle is set to 221h".)
cylinder walls). SETTING THE SAW BLADE. The MOSI ACCU-
Sincethe largest canisterpresentetlthe rate method I've found to set the bevel of
most problems,I started with it. I clreu'a the bladeis to use an adjustabletriangle.
circle with a radius of 3"/s"(for a tliameter
(Acljustabletriangiesthat canbe set to any
of 6/n"), see Fig. 1. Then I clrew another clegreebetween0oand90'. SeeWoodsm.ith
oneinsideit with a radius of 2%" (rvhichis No. 20 for more on these triangles.)
enoughfor the Vs"wall thickness,plus the Set the angleon the adjustabletriangle
%" for waste). anclholdit againstthe body ofthe blade(so
It turned out that using 4/4 stock for it doesn'ttouchany ofthe teeth).To check
an eight-sidedassemblyworked for the this setting, go aheadand cut a piece of
largestcanister,and it alsoworked well orr scraprvoocl,andthen checkthe bevelofthe
all the smaller sizedcanisters. actual cut. (The best way to do this, is to
duplicate the angle on a sliding bevel
C U I T I N GI H E B E V E T S
gauge.)
Once I clecidedon eight sides, I had to If the angle is off, adjust the blade and
bevel-rip the sidesto make the cylintler'. makeanothertest cut until you get as close
The angle of the blade for these cuts is as possible.(Slight errors can be com-
critical- evena slight error canleadto big pensatedfor later.)
headaches.In the case of an eight-sicled CUTTING IHE STRIPS
assemblyfor example, there are eight
joints. But eachjointconsistsoftwo sides. Oncethe bevel is set, I cut eight strips to v
So, there are 16 cuts involved. the u'idths neecledfor all of the cylinders.
(Seepage 10 for the widths of eachstave
for the foul different size canisters.)Just
to be on the safeside,I cut oneextra stave
pel cl'linder.
After all of the stavesare bevel-ripped
to u'idth, cut them to length. (To com-
pensatefor some loss during the turning
process, cut the staves about 2" longer
ARCOF CYI.INDER
MUSTFITWITHIN THE
than their finishedlengths.)
THICKNESS
OF SIOCK LAY0LT AND MARKING THE STAVES.
When the staves have been cut, lay the
eight stavessideby sideand arrangethem
to get a nice grain pattern. Then to keep
everything in order, number all of the
stavesto maintain their sequenceduring
the gluing process.
A S S E M B T I NTGH EC Y L I N D E R
Any error in the angle of the bevel is It's possibleat this point to glue all eight
stavestogether at onceto form a cylinder.
setting adds up to a 4o error when the But whenever I try this, I wind up with
assemblyis glued together. That's more frayed nerves and an expanded vocab-
than enough to create some unsightly ulary. Instead, I glue the stavesinto sets
of two, then into sets of four, and finaily
SOLUTION. The best way I've found to into the completedcylinder. The first two
steps of this gluing procedure are done
sub-assemblies for the cylinder. Each sub- with hand pressureonly.
Hand pressure only? Does that really
work without using clamps?
The advantageof two half-cylindersis It's surprising what you can do with a Y/
little pressure and the right glue. I use
Titebondglue, which is a fast-settingglue
the cylinder must have an even number of that makes it possible to "clamp" the
WoODSMITH
 stavestogether with just hand pressure.
Spreadsomeglue on one surfaceof the
joint. Then slide the bevelededges
together and hold them firmly for about
one minute, see Fig. 1. As you slide the
two stavestogether, try to keep the out-
sidecornersofthe bevelstightly together.
Also try to keep the bottom edgesflush.
Onceall of the staveshave beenjoined
into setsoftwo, join thesesetstogether to
form sets of four, using exactly the same
procedure.
C O R R E C I I VMEE A S U R E S
Thesesetsof four form the half-assemblies
mentionedearlier. Any error in the bevels
can be correctedat this point before the
half-assemblies are joined together.
But first, the angleofthe bevelsmust be
checkedwith a straight edge,seeFig. 2. If
the bevels are at the correct angle, the
straight edgewill touchthe entire width of
both bevelededges.
But that's not usually the case.Most of
the time (at least in my shop)the straight
edge only touches the inside or outside
cornersofthe bevels.And, they haveto be
corrected.l'ortunately, this is a relatively
easyoperation.
To correctthe angleofthe bevels,fasten
a piece of sandpaperto a flat surface (a
table saw, or a pieceof plate glass).Then
sandboth half-assemblies until the beveled
edgesare flush with the flat surface,see
v Fig. 3. (As you sand,rotate eachassembly
to preventroundingover ofthe ends.)
Sandingthe bevelededgeslike this pro- being glued to the plywood disc.
ducestwo flat surfaces that can be easily However, beforegluing on the cylinder,
joined. However, it also changesthe an- you shoulddrill pilot holesin the plywood
gles of the bevelsjust slightly, and alters disc to mount it to the facenlate. Once
the final proportionsof the assembly.This again, draw a circle that hai the same
is usually not a problem, but you want to radius as the outsiderow of holes on the
remove as little material as possibleto faceplate.
keep the assembly close to the original Lay the faceplateon the plywood disc,
snape, centeringthe outsiderow ofholesover the
Once the two halves match, glue them Iine and mark the locationof all the screw
together using two band clamps,keeping hoies. Then drill pilot holes completely
the bottom edgesflush, see Fig. 4. through the plywood. (The faceplate is
actually attachedto the other side of the
M O U N TF O RT U R N I N G
disc.)
Now this staveassemblyis ready for turn- Finally, the cylinder can be mountedto
ing. In order to turn it into a true cylinder the plywooddisc. Sandthe bottom edgeof
it must be mounted to a plywood disc, the beveled assemblyas smooth as pos-
whichin turn is mountedto the faceplateof sibleto get goodcontact.(I usedthe same
the lathe. techniqueshown in l'igure 2, except the
CENTERING THECYLINDEN. The tricK is end ofthe assemblyis on the sandpaper.)
to mount the cylinder so it's exactly When the bottom edgeis smooth,apply
centeredon the plywood disc, and so the a Iiberal coat of Titebond glue to the bot-
disc is exactly centeredon the faceplate. tom edgeofthe cylinder.Then positionthe
All of this centering is critical because cylinder on the plywood disc so all of its
there simply isn't enoughmaterialto allow cornerstouch the drawn circle.
removalof very muchstockwhenthe cylin- To clamp bhecylinder to the disc, put a
der is trued on the lathe. pieceof plywoodon top of the cylinderand
To makethe plywooddisc, draw a circie placethis whole assemblyon a drili press
about 1" larger than the diameter of the table. As pressureis appliedwith the drill
cylinder. (I used a compassto draw this press, be sure that the cylinder doesn't
circle so I would know where the center slide around. (Let the cylinder sit on the
point is.) Cut out the disc and then draw plywood for just a minute or two before
anothercircle to a diameter that matches clamping to help eliminate some of the
t h e c y l i n c l e r ' sw i d e s t ( p o i n t - t o - p o i n t ) tendencyto slide.)
width, see l'ig. 5. This circle is used to Allow the glue to set overnight. Then
center the outside of the cvlinder as it's the cylinder is ready to turn.

CHECKBEVEI.WIIH STRAIGHTEDGE

1 Gltrethe stauesinto setsof two, then s 1 W h e n t h e g l u e i s d r y o n t h e h a l f - tl To corcectang error in the beuels,

I into setsof.fotrr.Hold themwith hand ,3 assemblies, the beuelededgesshould tJ sairdtheassembl ieson a flat surtace.
pressul'eon|11.for about otte minute. Be form a straig ht line . If they don't, it can be Occasionallyrotate the asseitbly eid
.So,
sure aLI of the bottont.edgesare flush. conectedbeforefinal assembly. end to preuent rounding ouer the edges.
PTYWOODD|SC
KEEP
CYTINDER
CENTERED
WHENCIAMPING

BANDCTAMPS

'fon
J preparea plywood disc by drawing a 6',:Yn,ii:,' lnir;#,:!'slide out
p. To mount the cyLinderon the lathe,
v 4 Wtr :!:,:,:'f fi ilH,,Yi rtrl'l:;
and band-clampthe entire assemblyouer- circ\e equal to the manimum diameter of ueight. Be sure cylinder doesn't"i"#:il
night. Be sure the bottomedgesareflush. the cylinder. Centercylinder on this line. of marked circle as pressure is applied.

Woopsl,ttrH
 Trrned CanisterSet g
FOURTURNSFORTHEKITCHEN
I just couldn't take it anymore. Every
morning as I stumbled to the kitchen for
my first cup ofcoffee, thoseawful canisters
were staring me in the face.You know the
ones.Thoseceramicthings that look like a
brown log with a little squirrel handle
gluedon the side.I finally decidedthey had
to be replaced. . . I had to turn a set of
woodencanisters.
For the canisters shown here, I used
butternut for the main body, and walnut
for the base and lid. And just to make
thingsinteresting,I thought this would be
a good opportunity to use stave con-
struction to laminate the cylinders. (See
the previousarticle for a detaileddescrip-
tion of stave construction.)
Turning a canister(cylinder)that's built
using stave construction requires pro-
cedures that are different . . . even by a
woodturner'sstandard.
First, the cylinder is partially turned
even before the base is attached. Then
later, the base is added, and the whole
assemblyis reversed on the lathe before
the turning is finished.A strangeproced-
ure, I admit, but it's the best way I've
found to get the job done. Y
T U R N I N GT H EC Y T I N D E R
The first step is to bevel-rip the staves plywood discs (as describedon the pre- clean and straight. You want to leave as
neededforthe fourcanisters.I usedeight- vious page). much thicknessas possiblefor the inside
sided assembliesfor each of these can- DETERMINE WALLTHICKNESS. The most walls.
isters. (This means a bevel setting of critical part of turning these canisters is The sectionofthe cylinder right next to
22Vz'.)But to get the four different sizes,I determiningthe thicknessof the walls. I the plywooddiscis difficult to get to with a
variedthe width ofeachstave,as shownin startedby turning the largestsizecanister gouge, so I switched to a square-nosed
the drawing below. becauseit will have the least amount of scraperhere. Then I checkedthe walls to
The final length of eachstave (which is wall thickness after it's trued-up on the make sure they were straight. (Use out-
the height of the cylinder) is equal to the Iathe. Then the other three canistersare side calipersto measurethe outsidediam-
final diameter of the cylinder. I cut each turned to the samethickness. eter along the length of the canister.)
staveabout2" longerthan neededto allow Mount the largest cylinder on the lathe. sMoorHTHEwALLs.Oncethe diameter
a little waste for turnins. Then the outsidewalls of the cylinder (and is consistent,the next step is to improve
Oncethe stavesare cut, they're assem- the plywood disc) are turned true using a the finish left by the roughing-out gouge.
bled to form the rough eight-sidedcylin- large gouge, see Fig. 1. Remove only as Normally, the tool I'd reachfor is a skew.
ders.Then thesecylindersare mountedto much material as neededto turn the walls But in this case, there's a problem. The

-l'"1- SI.IGHT
NOTE: GLUE A PIECEOF 4/4 STOCK
ON TOPOF I.ID BTANKIO FORM KNOE
SHOUTDER
RA88ET
t/a" DEE?

II
I
5t/a"

RABBET
t/a" DEEP U
l__7v,

10 WooDSMITH
 tool rest on the Sears lathe I was using
can'tbe raisedhigh enoughfor the skewto
cut at the proper angle.
U Instead, I cleanedup the walls of the
c1'linderin a two-step procedure.First, I
madea coupleof very light passeswith a
freshly sharpenedgouge. (Dependingon
the wood,a heavy scrapermay alsohelp.)
Then for the final clean-up, I used an or-
bital sander,see Fig. 2.
Although a sander is not a typical turn-
ing tool, it doesa terrific job for the final
'
cleaningonthe outsideofthe cylinder. Set
the latheto the slowestspeedand useonlv
the lower half of the sander'spad (to pre."-
vent the "leading edge" from grabbing the
cylinder).
TRUETHE RIM. When the outside is
smooth,checkfor straightnessagain, and
then true the rim ofthe canister.I useda
parting tool for the initial cut on the rim
(seeFig. 3). Then to ensurethe rim formsa
cleanjoint when the base is attached, I
madea secondpasswith a skewto improve
the finish.
PREPARING FORTHEBASE.To prepare
the cylinder for the base, true the inside
walls to a depth of 3" or 4". Here, I useda
square-nosedscraper, making only very
light passesuntil the high points were
removed,see Fig. 4.
(Shop Note: Normally, a rabbet would
be cut in cylinder walls to acceptthe base.
But on thesecanisters,I cut the rabbet in
v the basebecausethe walls of the cvlinders
are too fragile to accepta rabbet.)
1 True themajortty of thecAlinder(and
I the dise) with a large gouge. When
working near the plywood disc, take tight
cuts with a,square-nosedscraper.
REDUCE
WAlts TO FINAI.
THICKNESS
FORA
After the rim is cleanedup, turn the
i,nsid,ewqll to itsfinal thicknesswith a
square-nosedscraper. This area can be
tunwd to a d,epthof about S" or /1".
WooostrnrH
After the walls are roughed down to a with the lathe, reducing the diameter of
depth off 3", I turned them to their final the blank to 1" larger than the cor-
thickness, and checkedfor uniform wall respondingcylinder.
thicknesswith outsidecalipers.
Shop Note: By turning the inside walls
Beforethe baseis completed,a rabbet is
cut on the rim ofthe baseso the cylinder
slightly deeperthan neededfor mounting canbe mountedto it. Mark the width of the
the base, I eliminatedhaving to turn this rabbet so it'ssAa"from the edgenearestthe
area later. (This will be the bottom of the tailstock.Then usea partingtool to cut the
canister,and difficult to get to.) rabbet until it's slightly larger than the
Finally, the cylinder is taken off the insidediameterof the cylinder, seeFig. 5.
lathe, and the faceplateis removed so it When you start to get closeto the final
can be usedto turn the canister'sbase. size, use the cylinder itself as a guide to
determinethe final size of the rabbet. Be
IHE CANISTER'S BASE
sure the rabbet fits quite snugly in the
The base of each of these canistersis cylinder, or there will be a gap where the
turned from 514stock. (I used walnut.) cylinder walls meet the base.
Edge-glueenoughstock to cut blanks l%" Once the rabbet is cut, finish sand the
larger than the outside diameter of the insideface of the baseto eliminatehaving
corresponding cylinder. Then, to avoid to sand this area when the canister ii
screw holes in the bottom of the base assembled.
(when it's mounted to the faceplate), I
mounted these blanks to a plywood disc M O U N I T H EC Y T I N D E R
with the paper-and-gluemethod. Finally, with the base blank still on the
First, cut a plywood disc 1" larger than lathe, apply glue to the rabbet and attach
the blank. Then pre-drill pilot holesin the the cylinder. (Don't apply too much glue,
disc (to match the holesin the faceplate). or it will squeezeout into the insidecorner
Next, cut a piece of paper slightly l"rge" of the canister.)
than the plywood disc and glue the paper Sincethe plywooddiscis still mountedto
between the disc and the blank. Let this the cylinder, I could use the tail stock of
assemblydry overnight. the lathe (and a live center) to clamp the
Finally, attachthe blankassemblyto the cylinderagainstthe baseblank, seeFig. 6.
faceplate.(I used6" faceplatesfor the two As you apply pressurewith the tailstock,
largest canisters,and S"faceplatesfor the make sure the edgeof the stave assembly
two smallestcanisters.)
pREpARTNG
and the bottom blank meet securelvon all
THEBASE.After the blank is sidesof the cylinder. Allow this asiembly
mountedto the faceplate,it's turned true to dry overnight.
ONIY USE EOTTOM TRUERIM OF CYI.INDER
EDGEOF SANDER WITH PARIING IOOI
sl After the walls of the cylinder are tl The rim of the cyLinderis tnrcd with a
. 3 c l e a n e d u p , ( a n d c h e c k e df o r 9 parting toolfirst. Then it's cleanedup
straightness),use the bottom ed.geoj an using a skewso itforrns acLeen,tight joint
orbital sander to sand the outsid,ewalls. when the baseis attached.
I Use a par-tingtool to cut a rabbet on
J the baseso it fits the turned section of
the cglind,er. Check the size of the rabbit
6y;':lf
,y;:;'i:if!'!:,y'a2':;
cylinder meets the base to forrn a tight
with the cylinder itself. joint. Let this assembly dry ouernight.
t1

I U R N T H EI N S I D EW A T L S
Beforethe insidewalls can be turned, the
plywood disc must be removed from the
"top" of the canister. Mark the finished
Iengthofthe canisteron the outsideofthe
cylinder.Then stad a cut with the parting
tool about V,t"to the outsideof the marked
line, see Fig. 7. Make this cut only about
%" deep.
Then, turn off the lathe and use a hand
saw to finish the cut. After the plywoodis
removed,trim the cylinder to its finished
length with the parting tool, and cleanup
the rim with a skew.
TURNINSII)EWALLS.I trued-up the in-
side walls with a square-nosedscraper,
removing material in very small incre-
ments, see Fig. 8. When the inside walls
are closeto the right thickness,make only
light passesto match the wall thickness
already turned at the bottom of the can-
ister. I'inaily, to improve the finish of the
walls, I madevery light cuts with a round-
nosedscraper.
TURNING THE BEAD.The main body of
the canisteris almost done.The next step
is to turn the bead on the base of the
canister.First, reducethe diameterofthe
basesoit sticksout about%,i'fromthe wall
of the cylinder. Then use a small gougeto
turn the bead so it's t/s"wider than the
c y l i n d e r , s e e F i g . 9 . ( I s w i t c h e dt o a
square-nosedscraper to finish the right
half of the beadthat's next to the cylincler
wall.)
R E M O V EO R I G I N A T : PARIING
D|SC
PTYWOOD ,/
FINISH CUT WIIH
HAND sAW
I
f
To retnouethe plywoori disc.frottt lhe
culinder. tttokea pafi[al cttt u'ilh a
parting tool. Then tu,nL o.ff'the Lathe artd
complete the cu.t u:it,h,
a hand san.
lO"Tli,iilo'i[zT;:l#;l::'f
f:{'i:i"!,the
l lrimf,?
{"#';,!ii:Jti't;:;z":'::f
oJ'thelid, and.forma 1"-widetaper
tlrcsamesizeon aLI Lids,btLttltekrtoband
thehollotoqetsm,aLleron eachsntal.lerlid.
t7
REMOVING THE CANISTEN. AftCT thc
beadis turned, the entire canistercan be
finish sanded, inside and out. Then the
canisteris removedfrom the lathe and the
baseis separatedfrom the plyrvoocldiscby
driving a 1" wide chiselright at the paper
joint. (This will split the paperrvasherand
separatethe two pieces.)
Finally, I sanded off all traces of the
paper and glue off the bottom of the can-
ister. I alsoholloweclout the bottom ofthe
base(with an orbital sander)soit rvoultlsit
on a flat surfacewithout rocking.
T H EI I D S
TURNING
The lids for these canistersare probabll'
the most difficult aspectof thi: |.rlojt'ct.
The problemis trying to turn four diffelent
sizedlids to look the same.
To do this, I turned a tapereclbead on
the rim (seeFig. 10) so it was exactll' the
sameon all four of the lids. Then I simph'
reducedthe size of the knobs (and the'
hollow around the knobs) on each sltc-
cessivelysmaller licl.
All of this begins by cutting out fottt'
blanks. I used5/4 stock for the major por-
tion of the lid, andaddecla smallpieceof -l -1
stock in the center of the blank for the
knob. Then I used the paper glue method
againto attachthe blanksto a pllrwoocldisc
and finally to a faceplate.
Turn eachlid blank true with the lathe.
and reclucingthe diameterof the lid blank
to %,i' larger than the cylinder.
RAIIBET. When the blank is trued, cut a
rURNWAI.ISTOMEEI3"
\ \ rool
@ 1'o finish tlte inside of'the c'yLittdet,
lEDturn the walL tui.tha. square-noserl
scrapel"tt,ntil the tlickness natches the d e r ' . S r l i l c l i t o a s q u , a r e - n o s e ds c r a p e r
pt'euiously-t'urnedsect[onnear thebottotn. u'lterethe beed nteetsthe cuLinder.
; i!::o'
:i l2Y,l':,:X',",I!ilof
,,?{'"iioof
#'i,{ii,iJ,
-
uith a routtd-nosedEcraper.
%"-widerabbet on the bottom of the ]id,
seeFig. 10.This rabbet shouldbe cut deep
enoughso the lid fits looselyinsidethe rim
of the canister.When you get closeto the
right size,removethe entire assemblyand
U
test it on the canister.
SHAPING THE RIM. After the rabbet iS
turned, mark the apex of the bead on the
remainingedge of the blank, see Fig. 11.
The apex shouldbe slightly to the left to
allow a little extra "meat" on the right side
for the tapercd shoulder.
I turned the left side of the bead first.
Then the oversizedright half is turned to
match the left side. And finally, I used a
lound-nosedscraperto form the taper that
florvsfrom the bead.This taper endswith a
definite shoulder1" from the outsideedge
of the beacl.(I cut this %,j'-deepshoulder
u'ith a square-nosedscraper.)
THFiK.r*oB. Next, I worked on the knob.
F olni the neck of the knob with a round-
nosedscraper,see l'ig. 12. At the same
time. form the hollowaroundthe knobsoit
flon's smoothlyout to the shoulderof the
taperedbeacl.
Then the eclgesofthe knob are rounded
over'.anclthe slight hollow is carvedin the
top of the knob. l'inally, sandthe lid, ancl
then separateit from the plywood disc
s'ith a chisel.
t't\tsHl:\ic. I finishedthe ozrlsideof the
canistersu'ith Hope'sTung Oil Varnish.
Huu'er-er.on the inside, I appliedthree
coatsof Behlen'sSalaclBowl finish(a non- v
toric tinishthat's safearoundfood.)
--USE SQUARENOSED
. SCRAPER
WHERE SEAD
MEETSCYTINDER
TURNBEAD
CENTERED ON
B A S EB T A N K
--
9 il:;?Ti':!,:::#:', !]f
it'ilf,l 21,'
"il
around the neck uith a rotLnd-ttosed
scraper. Then Jinish. tu"rning th,eknob.
Wooostr.tt:tn
v Index of Conterrts
INDEXFORISSUES
NO. I THROUGH
NO. 24
This index coversall the articles shownin Drawer Guides,ConstructionExamples Router (continued)
the first 24 issues of Woodsmitla(No. 1 Dado 13:14 Stand22:16-17
throughNo. 24). In order to makeit easier Metal 7:9, I2:7 Table 5:6-8,9:3, 20:18-19,24:3
to find informationon specifictopics,we've Web Frame 8:10 SandingDisk 11:12,13:3,15:3
rlilided this index into six sections.The Woodenl4:7, L8..12, 22:14,22:18,24:20 SandingDrum 12:11,13:3,15:3
fil'st sectionis a generalcatalogofarticles, Finishes Saw Blades
*'hereas the last five sectionsdeal spe- Fillers 2:2, l5:3, 17:3 Band Saw 10:3
c i f i c a l l yw i t h t e c h n i q u e s p
, r o j e c t sa n d Non-Toxic 19:23 Cleaningl7:3,21:23
Jolnery. Polyurethane16:15,17:11 Dado 17:12,17:20
The numbersfollowingeachiisting refer ShellacI7:9, 17:15 Dovetail19:5
to the IssueNumber andthe pagenumber. StainingPine 19:23 Protectors 18:3
l'or example, 16:10-11refers to Wood- T u n gO i l 2 4 : 1 1 Screws
sliillr IssueNo. 16, pages10 to 11. Tung Oil Varnish 16:7 Brass 18:3
Varnish 14:9 Dry Wall 18:3,19:23
GENERAT Glue Scribe 19:4-5
Bottles9:3, 10:3 Sharpening
The articles listed in this sectionEive in- Brush 7:3 Chisels20:8-11
formationon generalvroodworking: topics Clean Up 9;3 PlaneIrons 23:18-19
(excludingjoinery and techniques).Also Frczen 20:23
, SharpeningStones
listedin this sectionare generalreferences Hide (Scotch)19:28 Cleaning20:13
to "constructionexamples" that may be Removal 17:20,I8:3 DiamondStones20:L3,23:18.247
helpfulif you're lookingfor ideasfor build- R e s i n1 : 1 ,3 : 1 1 ,6 : 4 Flattening 20:13
ing doors, drawers, table tops, etc. R e s o r c i n o3l: 7 ,3 : 1 1 ,1 6 : 1 0 JapaneseWater Stones 23:t8-19, 24:4-6
Waterproof3:7, 3:11,16:10 Oil Stones 20:4-6,20:10, 20:72-13
Angles Grinding Wheels 20:4-6,20:12,23:23 SiliconCarbide Slurry 20:6,21:23
Compound16:10-11 I)ressers20'.6-7,20'.12 Table Legs, ConstructionExamples
For Miters 12:14 'lool
Rest 20:7, 24:3 Gate Leg 20:14-16
v BeclRail Fasteners21:23 Harclware Pedestal1l:6
BenchHold-Down23:3 \,ampalgn/:/ Straight I4:I0, l5:4
Branding Irons 10-3 Wall-Mounting 18:23 Tapered 11:4,11:8,I4:4, 23:12,23:24
Bullet Catches19:12 Hinges Trestle 22:14,23:72.23:24
Cabinet Scrapers l4.2, l4:I2-13, t7:3 Butler'sTable 14:16 Turned 12:4
Carpenter'sTriangle 1:6, 15:6 Drop Leaf 14:8 Table Tops, ConstructionExamples
Chairs,ConstructionExamples2:6, 4:17, W o o d e n9 : 4 - 8 9 , : 1 1 ,2 0 : 1 6 Bread Board Ends 23.12,23:24
15:8 Lathe Butier's Table 10:8
Clamps Drilling 23:4-5 Drop Leaf 11:8,14:4,20:14,23:8
Finger Boards 1:6 l'aceplateMounting 23:4-5 Frame and Panel16:4,2I:12
Pipe Clamp Pads 15:3 Gouges21:22 Laminatecl15:4,19:14
Wedge Clamps5:3 S c r a p e r2 sl:22,22:23 MoldedEdge 14:4,t8;4,2414
DadoBlade L7:20,23:23 Lazy Susans21:10-11 Oval 14:4
Doors, ConstructionExamples Leaf Supports14:6-7,23:11 R o u n d1 1 : 1 62, 0 : 1 4
Cane Panel 22:14 Legs, "X" F'olding3:6, 16:4 Tambours4:6-8,17:4-ll, 203
Glass9:11,l3:4, 2l:I2, 22:18 Marking Gauge19:12,19:13,21:3 T-Nuts 16:19
Plywood22:14,22:LG Mathematics Triangle, Adjustable 20:23
Plywood Panel 13:4 Miters l2:14-I5 Tools
RaisedPanel8:7,8:8, 18:4,18:12,18:16, TaperedLegs 11:11 Cabinet Scraner14:12
2 l : 1 2 .2 2 : 1 2 . 2 4 : 1 4 MusicBox Movements6:6-7 Drill Press Elevator 16:20,l9:B
Tambour17:6,17:10 Planes,Bench Dovetail Router l'ixtures 22:10
Dovetails Flattening SoIe 23:22 RockwellSpeedBloc Sander14:12
Layout and Marking 19:6-7 Parts 23:16-17 SearsBelt SanderStand 10:10
Tools Needed 19:4-5 Setup23:20-21,23:22 Slow-Speecl ShaperBits 12:3
Drawers, ConstructionExamples Use 23:21 Stanley "No-Mar" Hammer 19:5
Box Joint 17:16 PlasticLaminates21:10-11 Wagner Safe-T-Planner10:10
Curved Front 14:5 Plywood Edging 22:Il, 22:22 TranrmelPoint 17:4-5,I7 7, 17:20,20:IB
Dovetailed19:14,22:12 PumiceStone 14:9 Uphoistering2:8, 15:11
Flush 11:4, l2:4, 20:14,24:20,24:24 RosanInserts 19:13,22:II,24:3 Veneer
Frame and Panel8:8,22:2I Router Pliant Woocl14:10-11
Lipped 13:14,18:4,18:16,21:12 Bits 9:3, l2:3, l2:Il, 23:23 Tape 13:6,17:8,22:lI
Mitered Front 21:3 Collets7:3,9:3, 12:3 Woocl
P i y w o o d7 : 8 , 2 2 : 1 5 DovetailFixtures 22:10 Dimensions 22:23
Recessed13:14,17:6 Multi-PurposeEclgeGuide 1Z:4,1Z:20 Storase 19:23

Wooosrr,ltu
 Tables(continued) Toys
F U R N I T U RPER O J E C T S Gate Leg 20:14 RaceCar 5:12
Follou,ingis a list of the major furniture
projects shown ln the first 24 issues of
Woodsrnillr.Where possible, we have
Oak, Kitchen 15:4
Prembroke 14:4
Shaker Stand 11:4
Train 5:10
Turned Projects
Canister 14:14
.i
triecl to group them by category, such as Trestle I:3,23:12 Fruit Bowl 21:8
Cabinets.Tables.etc. T.V. Tray 16:4 Goblets23:4
JOINERY:STEP-BY-SIEP
Benches OTHERPROJECTS
Garclen3:8 The articles listed in this sectiongive in-
Trestle 23:24 All of the smallerprojectsand projectsfor formationon how to cut a particularjoint.
Book Case7:6 the shop are listed in this section. These articles include complete step-b1'-
Cabinets step drawings and instructions.
Bed-SideStand 18:4
Cabinet/Hutch,European22:18
Chair-SicleCommocle24:14
Boxes,Small
End Grain Top 15:13
Jewelry 9:5
Box Joint 2:4, L7:12-13
Dado/Tongue(also called Rabbet/Dado)
I
Curio Cabinet2I:12
Dry Sink, Coionial18:12
MusicBox 6:6
RecipeBox 10:8
6:8. 10:9.18:20-21
Dovetail
I
F rame anclPanel, Contemporary8:8 Routed, Free l'orm 13:12 Lap (Half-Blind), Hand-cut 22:4-5
Hutch/Cabinet,Contemporary13:4 Slide-Top17:14 Lap (Half-Blind), Machine-cut 22:6-9
Mocluiar Storage Cabinets 22:12 SpiceBox, Six-Drawer 6:3 Through19:6-11
Stereo,Tambour 17:6 Frames Through Rabbeted21:3
Cart, Serving/Microwave23:8 Hall Mirror 21:16 Tongueand Groove9:7, 20:22
Cases,Wall-Hung Octagonall2:8 Dowel,Blind 12:9
ColonialRaisedPanel8:? Oval 5:9 Drop Leaf (Rule)11:10,14:8
DisplayCase,GlassDoor 9:11 Note Board 18:24 Edge-to-Edge 15'.6-7,16:12-15,17:.6-9,
Tambour Door Case 17:10 Round Miruor 12:10 18:16-19
Chairs Shop Projects FingerJoint 17:12-13
Contemporary2:6 Bow Saw 5:5 Groove,Stopped2:5, l5:4
Deck, Canvas3:6 DiamondPoint Holder 20:7 Half Lap, Mitered 2:11
Oak Kitchen 15:8 Drill Bit Storage4:9 Miter
Chests Improved Tool Rest 20:7 Cross12:9.2l:8-9.2l:17
Blanket16:12 Leather Stropping Pad 20:7 Locked9:10
Six Drawer 17:16 Marking Gauge19:13 Mathematics12:14
Sweater9:8 Nut and Bolt Storage4:5, 15:14 R i p / B e v e7l : 1 1 ,9 : 9 , 1 6 : 1 1 v
Clocks Penciland Card Holder 2:12 Mortise And Tenon
Desk 10:4 RevolvingTool Holder 4:9 Haunchecl (for Groove)8:3-6,13:10-11,
Mantel 24:8 Router Case4:3 18:8-9
Schoolhouse 21:4 Router Table 5:6-8,20:18 MoldedEdge 24:12-13
Wall, Octagonal12:8 Router Table Stand 22:16 Open(Mitered)16:16-17, 16:18
Desks SharpeningStone Box 20:? Open (Through)24:18-19
Lap 9:6 Shop Cart 13:14 StaggeredShoulder13:10-11
Slant Top, Shaker 12:4 ShopStool4:11 Trvin Tenons8:5, l2:t2
!'ile Cabinet7:8 Tool Holder 4:12 Wedged15:12
Lamps Trammel Point 20:13 Rabbet/Dado 6:8. 10:9.18:20
AcljustableBracket 9:4 Wedge Clamps5:3 Splines
Dovetail Base22:24 Small Projects Edge-to-Edge I5:4, 23'.22
Hanging 2:9 Belt Buckle 10:6 Miter, Cross21:8-9
Hutch, Wall-Hung Colonial18:16 Binder 7:4 Miter, Rip 7:11
Jewelry Case24:20 Book Rack 7:12 Parallel9:9
Mirrors
Hall Mirror 21:16
Bread Board l:1,20:24
CandleSconce6:5
Tambours(Roll Top) 17:4-5
I
Round Frame 12:10
Vanity, Small Swivel 10:5
ChristmasOrnaments6:4
Coin Holder 10:6
Coin Sorter 16:9
EXAMPTES
JOINERY:CONSIRUCTION
The articles listed in this sectionrefer to
projectsthat use a particularjoint. These
I
Vanity, With Drawers 24:24
Planters Compass7:3 referencesmay be helpfulin decidingwhen
Cedar Plant Pillars 3:4 CoolingRack 1:2 and how a joint can be used.
Hanging 3:12 CookbookRack 6:4
RedwoodPlant Tub 3:3 Knife Holder 10:7 Box Joint 17:16-19
Tapered-SidedTub 16:10 Letter Opener 10:7 Dado6:4, 6:5, 7:8-9,12:6,13:6,22:20
Step Stool, Shaker 19:20 Penciland Card Holder 2:12 Dado/Tongue(Rabbet/Dado)6:6-7, 9:5,
Tables Rack, Shaker Peg 2:3 9:11,10:8,l3:7,2l:7, 22:14,24:10,24:22,
q/l 'OA
Butler's Tray Table 14:10 Serving Tray 19:19
CandleStand,Shaker11:6 SpiceBox 6:3 Dovetail
Coffee1:7 SpinningServer 21:10 Lap (Half-Blind)11-4,l2:7,22:14
Coffee,Three Drawer 19:14-17 Tie Rack 1:2 Through 19:14-15,l9:I9, 19:20-22,19:24
Drop Leaf, Shaker 11:8 Tfivet 2l:24 T o n g u e a n d G r o o v e 9 : 6 - 7, l L : 6 - 7 ,
End 1:7 Waste Basket 7:5 20:20-21,20:24

WOODSMITH
 Cutting Jigs (continued)
Duplicates23:3 Radial Arm Cut-OfT17:3
16:5-6 Plywoocl22:11 Radial Arm Mortise 16:18
1 5 : 4 ,1 5 : 1 3 , Small Pieces9:2, L5:I5-I6, l7:3 RaisedPanel2:10,20:3
Y Small Strips 9:12 Resawing6:9
!'.:,rlerJoint 17:14-15 Tambour Strips 17:5 Tambours,Gluing 17:5
Ha,iLap 16:7 Doors,Building 13:8,18:8,24:17 T a p e rC u t t i n gl : 6 , 5 : 4 ,1 1 : 3 ,1 1 : 1 1
H a l f L a p . C r o s s 2 : 1 2 ,6 : 1 2 , 1 3 : 5 ,1 3 : 8 , Muntins 13:9 TenonCutting 24:18
I i: ll-15 Stops13:9 Laminating10:9,15:13
ll:'.er Dowels Marking Gauge20:13,21:3
('ross 7:6-7,9:8, 12:8, L2:10,ZI:L}-ll, Chamfering10:3 Miters
2112-15,2l:16, 2l:24, 23:2L,24:16 CustomMade 19:3 Cutting l2:I5,20:8-9
Iiip Bevel 3:3, 7:5, 8:8-11,13:7, 16:10, Cutting 16:3 Mathematics12:14
2l:-1-6 Grooving16:3 Panels,Raisecl 2:10,8:6,15:12,18:10,20:3,
I ]l,rt'tiseand Tenon
AngledShoulder11:8-9
Making 19:3
Sanding9:12
24:2I
Plywood,Edging 22:3,22:11,22:22
I Haunched(for Groove)8:8-11,11:4-5, Use 24:23
1 3 : 8 ,1 4 : 1 0 - 1 11,8 : 7 - 81, 8 : 1 5 1, 8 : 1 7 - 1 8 Drawer Construction
Radial Arm Saw
Cut Off l7:3,22:3
llolded Edge 24:8-9,24:16-17 Box Joint 17:19 MortiseJig 16:18
Open(Mitered)16:4-5,16:12-13 Lipped I8:20-2I ReplacementInserts 20:3
Open(Through) 24:20-2I Dovetail19:18 Router Jig 20:3
S t r a i g h t l 2 : 5 , 1 4 : 5 - 6 ,1 6 : 1 5 ,2 3 : 8 - 9 , Drawer Guides18:22 Resawing6:9, 17:5
22:I4-I5 Drilling RosanInserts22:II, 24.,3
S t u b2 2 : 1 8 - 1 92,4 : 1 5 Angle 4:10 Routing
T w i n 1 2 : 5 , 1 4 : 5 , 1 8 : 4 - 6 , L 8 : 1 2 - 1 4 , Evenly SpaceclHoles 22:23 Circles 20:13,20'.17,2l:10-lI, 24:9
20:14-15 Horizontal12:13 Drill Press10:11-12
Wedged1:3, 15:8-9 Lathe 23:4 Round Corners 17:5
Rabbet3:3, 6:3, 9:6,18:22 Drill PressJigs 1:6, 18'.23,22:3 R o u t e r T a b l e 7 : 1 0 , 1 0 : 1 1 ,1 8 : 3 ,2 2 : 1 6 ,
Rule (Drop Leafl 11:8-9,14:7 Ellipse,Drawing5:8,14:3,16:3,19:3,24:3 24:3,24:23
Spline Finishing Techniques With Template4:7, 13:13
E dge-to-EdgeL5:4,23:13 Dents, Removing15:3 Sancling
Miter (Cross)21:10-11, 2l:12-15,2l:16, Hand-RubbedFinish 14:9 Circlesll:72,l2:II
2l:24.22:2I2 . 4:16 Measuring17:3 Dowels9:12
Miter (Rip) 7:5, 7:7, 9:8-9,2l:4-7 PumiceStone 14:9 Glass13:3
Parallel9:8-9 SealingEncl Grain 9:3 SmallAreas 13:3,15:3
Tambour(Roll Top) 4:6-7,17:6-9,17:10-11 SealerAnd Varnish 14:9 Sharpening
Tongue and Groove 16:14,23:12-13,23:24 Tambours 77:4, 20:3 Cabinet Scrapers14:13
Frames Chisels20:8-11
Half-RoundArch 21:16 ClearanceAngles20:8,23:18
TECHNIQUES
Hexagonal12:11 Diamond Stones 23:18, 24l.7
The articles listed in this section give Octagonal12:8-9 Hollow Grinding 20:9,23:18
informationand details for specificwood- Oval 5:9 JapaneseWater Stones24:4-6
working techniquesand procedures(ex- Round12:10-11 Lathe Tools 2I'.22,22'23
cept for joinery). Glass Micro-Bevels20II, 23:L9
Cutting 13:16,17:20 PlaneIrons 23:18-19
Angle Cutting Sanding13:3 Stropping20:11
Hexagon12:11,16:8,18:3 Glue SharpeningStones
Miter 12:14.2l:8. 2I:I7 Cieanup 9:3 Cleaning20:13
Octagon12:9 Removal7:3, 17:20,L8:3 F'lattening20:4-6,20'.13
TaperedBevel 16:11 Gluing Splines
I Beads,Cutting 14:11,16:3
Cabinet Scraper I4:12-t3, l7:3
Edge-to-Edge15:6-7,17:20,23:22
Mitered Splines21:9
Cutting 10:3,2l:9
U s e s1 6 1: 0 ,2 l : 5 , 2 1 1 0 ,2 l : 1 2 ,2 3 1 3
I Carpenter'sTriangle 15:16
Circle
Tambours17:4
Hinges, Mounting
Table Saw, Alignment 20:3,23:3
Table Tops
Cutting 19:3 Butler's Table 14:16,16:3 Leaf Supports11:8,14:4,20:14,23:ll
Routing 20:13,20:17,21:10-11 Door 13:9,18:3 Mountingl4:-7,I5:5,18:6,20:16,21:23
Sanding11:12 Drop Leaf 11:10,14:8 Tambours(Roll-Top)17:4-5,20:3
Clamping Jigs TaperedLegs, Mathematics11:11
Finger 1:6 Angle Drilling 4:10 Turning
HexagonalFrame 12:11 Bead Cutting 16:3 B o w l s2 1 : 1 8 - 1 9
OctagonalFrame 12:9 Box Joint 2:4, 17:13 Calliper Setting 21:3
Table Tops l5:7, l7:3 Circle Sandingll:12, l2:II Canisters I4:I4-I5
Wedge 3:3 Cove Cutting 12:6 Cutting vs. Scraping2l:18,24:2il
Cleaning Cut-Off8:12,11:3,18:23,22'.3,22:II Goblets23:4-7
Oil Stones20:13 Drill Press 18:23 FaceplateMounting 23:4-7
Saw Blades21:23 Fret Work 6:10 Upholstering2:8, 15:11
Cove, Cutting 12:16,20:23 Horizontal Boring 12:13 Wall Hanging Techniques4:12, l8:2i)
Curves, Drawing2L:23 Miter 12:15 Wood Storage 19:23

Wooosrraru

MAIL-ORDE
R\VOODWORKI
Oneofthe biggestheadaches in
woodworkingis trying to find
the tools, hardware and fin-
ishesneededto build a project.
More and more we've cometo
dependon mail-order catalogs
for easyaccessto almostevery
woodworkingproduct we
need. Here's a list of the cata-
logs we use most often.
Note: To order these cata-
logs, send your payment di-
rectly to the catalog address.
Do not send it to Woodsmi.t,h.
R E Q U I R ERDE A D I N G
This first group of catalogsare
the oneswe feel deserveextra
attention becausethey carry
full lines of quality woodwork-
ing tools and supplies.Each
oneis well worth havingin any
shoplibrary.
GARRETTWADE
161Avenue Of The Americas
New York, New York 10013
Toll F'ree: (80U 22I-2942
Catalog:$3.00(244pages)
Ma.jor emph,asis:Quality hand
toolsfor woodworking,turning
and carving; l'inishing sup-
plies; Japanesetools; Work-
b e n c h e s ;I n c a p o w e r t o o l s ;
Books.
Without a doubt, this is the
finest catalogwe've seen.Gar-
rett Wade has recognizeclthe
need for quality woodworking
toolsand providesthem in one
of the most beautiful catalogs
on the market. But more im-
portant their catalogalso sup-
pliesa wealth of solid informa-
tion at the beginning of each
"chapter." The description of
finishingsupplies,for example,
is amongthe best information
we've seen anywhere (better
than most books).This cataloe
is highly recommended.
Sources U
NG CATALOGS
WOODCRAFT SUPPLY KLOCKIT
41 Atlantic Avenue "WORTHHAVING"
P.O. Box 629
P.O. Box 4000 CATATOGS
Lake Geneva,Wisconsin53147
Woburn, Massachusetts01888 The following catalogstend to Tel: (414) 248-L150
Toll Free: (800)225-1153 s p e c i a l i z ei n c e r t a i n a r e a s . Catalog:Free (48 pages)
Catalog:$2.50(128pages) Each one is certainly worth Good selection of quartz
having, if you're interested in (battery operated)clockmove-
M aj or emphasis.'Quality hand
its individual area. (Listed ments, and also parts ancl
toolsfor woodworking,turning
alphabetically. ) accessories.
and carving; Hard-to-find
tools; Speciality small power
CRAFTPRODUCTS LEICHTUNG
tools; Books.
2200Dean Street 4944CommerceParkway
Woodcraft Supply has pro- St. Charles.Illinois60174 Cleveland,Ohio44128
duceda very completetool cat- Tel: (312)584-9600 Toll Free: (800)831-6840
alogthat alwaysseemsto have ClockBook:$1.50(116pages) Catalog:$1.00(66 pages)
the edgewhen it comestime to Craft Productsoffers one of Specializesin quality, im-
pay the fiddler. They alsohave t h e b e s t s e l e c t i o n so f c l o c k ported hand tools at very rea-
a knack for keepingcurrent on movements,palts and kits of sonableprices.They alsocarry
the tools (whether new or old) any catalogu'e've seen. Mold- Lervad workbenchesand Ma-
that are in demand- the ones ings and other clock accessor- kita power toois. Leichtungof-
you've heard about and can't ies are also available. Highly fers a numberof "sales"during
seemto find anywhere else. recommendeci if 1'ou'relooking the year that are worth getting
for clock parts. in on.
THE WOODWORKERS'STORE
21801Industrial Boulevard CRAFTSMAN WOODSERYICE MASONAND SULLIVAN
Rogers,Minnesota55374 1735W. CortlandCt. 586 Higgins Crowell Road
Tel: (612)428-4101 Addison,Illinois60101 West Yarmouth
Catalog:$1.00(114pages) Tel: (312)629-3100 Cape Cod, Mass.02673 v
M a j o r e m . p h a s i:s C a b i n e t Catalog:$1.50
(146pages) Tel: (617)778-0475
hardware; Veneers, molding, This is an "oid line" catalog Catalog:l'ree (32 pages)
hardwood;Finishing supplies. that's been around fol years. A combinationof clock kits
The major emphasisis hard- and movements.Their empha-
W h e n e v e r w e n e e d c a b i n e t woodsand veneers,but the se- sis is on the kits, but they also
hardware,this is the first place lection0ftools and harclu'aleis offer the movementsand parts
we look.They carry a compiete also quite good. Horvever,it's neetledto build clocksof vour
line of specialtyhardware that organizedin a "randomsearch" orvndesign.
not only looksnice,but solvesa methoclthat's vert, annol-ing,
l o t o f p r o b l e m s . T h e y a i s o a n d t h e d e s c r i p t i o n so f t h e WOODCARVER'S SUPPLY
carry a wide variety of wood productsneedto be expanded. 3056Excelsior Blvd.
finishes and supplies, and a Minneapolis,Minnesota55416
good selectionof veneers and THE FINE TOOLSHOP Tel: (612)927-7491
hardwoods. P.O. Box 1262 Catalog:$2.00(72 pages)
20 BackusAvenue One of the most complete
WOODFINISHINGSUPPLY Danbury, Connecticut06810 catalogsof woodcarvingtools
Dept. 2C Tel: (203)797-0772 and accessorieson the market,
1267Mary Drive Catalog:$1.00(98 pages) Also includes standard wood-
Macedon,New York 14502 Fine Tool carries a good se- working power and hand tools.
Tel: (315)986-4517 lectionof quality woodu'orking
Catalog:$3.00(56 pages) tools - at pricesthat can't be WOODLINE
b eat. In fact, they offer a 1731Clement Avenue
Ma.jorenrphasis:Finishesand
"Buyer ProtectionPlan" (until Alemeda,California94501
finishingsupplies.
8-1-83)that states,"Ifyou can Tel: (415)521-1810
This is the most completecata- buy for lessfrom any other mail Catalog:$1.50(50 pages)
log ofwoodfinishesandrelated order companyafter you have Woodline provides the
supplieswe've found. Not only bought from us, Fine Tool will largest selection of Japanese
do they offer every finish we've not only refund the difference, woodworkingtools in the U.S.
ever heardof, but they provide but also will pay you l07o of Since Japanesetools are all
excellentinformation on when y o u r n e t p u r c h a s e p r i c e . " they offer, Woodline has the
and how to use it. That's an offer that's hard to best selection,and the best in-
J
refuse. formation on the proper care
and use of the Jananesetools.
WOODSMITH
v Shq&
SOMETIPSFROMOURSHOP
'fr.i:rle
salvs can do a lot of things, but Temporariiy tack the plywood to the
:, 'nletimesthey needa Iittle help. We used runner with smallbrads. Then pick up the
:rlo different cutting jigs to make someof baseandturn it over to drill pilot holesand
: he."specialty"cutsneededfor the projects drive screwsto securethe runner to the
::r this issue. base.Return this assemblyto the saw and
mount the outsiderunner so it fits snugly
PANET/CUI-OFF JIG
againstthe woodenstrip on the end of the
The first jig is onewe originallyusedto cut extensionwing.
glued-uppanelsto sizebackinWoodsmith Now trim the working end of the base
\o. 18. Sincethen we've beenusing it for square by pushing it through the saw
nroreand more "specialty"cuts. blade.(This way you know the end of the
('I'TTTNG LONGpANELs.For instance,the baseis exactly on the path of the blade.) board. (If the cut is made so the strip is
pl1'rvoodtop of the Coffee Table in this THEFENCE. Finally, add the fenceto the between the blade and the rip fence,
issuehadto be cut to a length of 44V2" . This trailing edge of the base. Chamfer the there's a danger of kickback.)
is a difficult cut to make becausethe rip inside edge of this fence to create a saw- But this procedureis kind of a hassle
fence(on most saws)can't go beyond24", dust relief. Then use a large framing becauseyou have to re-set the fence for
and a miter gauge is too small to give square to position the fence square with eachcut. To get aroundthis problem,I use
adequatesupport for a workpiece this the working edge(andthe blade),and glue a push shoe thit allows you to rip very
large. Instead,I usedthe panel-cuttingjig and nail it in place. narrow pieces toithout re-setting the
as a giant miter gauge to support the Up to this point the jig is the sameas the fence.
plywoodwhile cross-cuttingit to length. one shown in Woodsm,ithNo. 18. But re- To makethis shoe,rip a pieceof plywood
cur-oFF rtc. This same jig served an- cently I added a moveablestop to the to a width of about6". Then makea second
other role when I cut the legs for the Cof- (partial) cut about Yn"from the outside
feeTableand the piecesfor the drawersof CARRIAGE edgeof the shoe.Stopthis cut 3" to 4" from
the ShopStorageCabinet.In both cases,I the end ofthe plywoodand cut offthe loose
u'anted to cut several piecesto iclentical edge with a hand saw. This will create a
length. And I was abie to use the panel- smali "heel" (stop)at the end ofthe shoe.
v cutting jig as a cut-off jig by adding a To rip the tambour strips, hold the shoe
moveablestop block. SAWDUST
firmly againstthe fence and measurethe
coNSTRUcrIou.The basic jig is very WINGNUT width of cut you want ('/""in this case)from
easy to make. Cut a piece of %" plywood the left sideof the shoeto the insideof the
for the base about 16" wide and long blade.Then usethe shoeto pushthe work-
enoughto extend 12"past the wing ofthe piecethroughthe blade.
table saw.
ROUIINGNARROWPIECES
The base is guided with two runners. fence. This is simply a matter of cutting
The first runner is cut to fit the miter anotherstrip the samewidth as the fence. One last (very simple)jig. When I cham-
g a u g e c h a n n e l . T h e s e c o n dr u n n e r i s Beforeaclclingthis secondstrip, cut two feredthe top edgesofthe table legsfor the
m o u n t e d t o t h e o u t s i d e e d g e o f t h e snrall squares of /,i' plywood. Glue the CoffeeTable, I wanted to use the router
plywoodbasesoit ridesagainstthe edgeof plywood squaresto the ends of the first table. But making any kind of cut on the
t h e e x t e n s i o n w i n g . ( S o m e e x t e n s i o n fence,and then add the top strip. This will endofa longnarrow workpiece(like a table
wings have bolts along the edges,so you form a /a" groove for a carriage bolt that leg) is awkward at best, and sometimes
holds the wooclenstop block to the fence.
.-%" SPACERBETWE€NFENCES
USING THEJIG.To get the best (cleanest)
cuts when using this jig, I use a three-cut
procedure.l'irst, cut all of the piecesto a
rough length (about /:" longer than
needed).Then cut a cleanend on oneendof
eachrough piece.
Mark the final lengthon oneofthe pieces
(measuringfrom the cleanend),andadjust AGAINST JIG
the stop block so the cut is made on this ROUTERTABIE
mark. All remaining piecescan be cut to
identical length using the block as a sure
may wat to add a woodenstrip to the edge stop for the final length. dangerous.The problem is that you can't
of the wing.) hold the workpiecesquareto the fenceas
RIPPING JIG
ASSEMBLv. To assemblethe jig, place you feed it through the bit.
the first runner in the miter gaugechannel The secondjig is used for ripping very To get around this problem I use a
andspreada thin beadofglue alongthe top narrow strips, like the tambour strips for simple piece of plywood as a stabilizing
ofit. Then positionthe piywoodbaseover the T.V. Cabinetshownin this issue.The guide.Just hold the workpieceagainstthe
the runner so the "working" end of the normal procedure when cutting narrow plywoodto keepit squarewith the fenceas
piywoodextendsinto the path ofthe blade. strips is to work off the outside of the you move it through the bit.

WooostrltrH 13
 ThmbourTV Cabinet
- VIDEOEQUIPMENTOUTOFSIGHT
Donkey Kong. Can you believe that's the
namefor one of those new video games?Of
courseas soonas I found out about it. I had
to be the first on my block to get in on all
this excitement.
All you need, I discovered, is a video
home computer (Atari), some "joy sticks"
and a collectionof game cartridges. There
is one drawback however. One evening
while I was absorbed in a hot game of
Space Invaders, I missed the latest epi-
sodeof "Dallas." So. now I neededa video
cassette recorder to tape the shows I
missed while I was playing video games.
Modera electronicshas made relaxation
a real challenge. Almost overnight, all
sorts of video attachments have come out
to keep everyone glued to the tube.
But there is a silver lining to this elec-
tronic cloud. All of these gizmos need a
home. A good excuse, I thought, to break
away from the tube, head for the shop and
build a T.V. cabinet to store all these
gadgets.
I decided to have some (old-fashioned)
fun and build this cabinet with a tambour
(roll-top) door in front of the T.V. Then,
with a bow to contemporary styling, I also
thought it would be nice to have smoked-
glass doors in front of the video storage
compartment. And as it turned out, these
two features provided more challenges
than Pac Man.
DIMENSIONS
This cabinet is designedto hold a 19"tele-
vision set, a video recorder and a video
computer game. Since all of these things
can vary widely in size from model to
model, you may have to alter the dimen-
sions of this cabinet.
The maximum usable spacein the T.V.
compartment (with the tambour door
open) measures 28" wide by L9/z'high. 514oak. (5/4 stock is 1%0"thick.) The stiles rabbets on the ends of each rail, making
And the usable area for the two shelves (G, vertical pieces)are ripped to a width of sure the shoulder-to-shoulderdistancebe-
(behindthe glass doors) is 26" wide by 8Yz" 2" and cut to length to the full height ofthe tween the rabbets is 15", see Fig. 1.
high, and l6Yz" deep, These dimensions cabinet (48"). PLYWOODPANEL. Now, the frames (rails
should be large enough for most video THE RAILS. The rails (H, horizontal and stiles) can be dry-clamped together to
components.But you may want to check pieces)are alsoripped to a width of2" and a get measurementsfor the plywood panels
before you build. length of 15%". (Since I wanted the sides (A). I cut these panels abare lrc" short of
IHE CABINEISIDES to be a total of 19" wide, the length ofthe the groove-to-groovemeasurementsof the
rails accountsfor 15" between the stiles. frames to allow for glue squeeze-out.
I started construction with the two "web plus 7a"for the two 7e"-longstub tenons.) Next, cut rabbets on the in side faceof all
frame" sides of the cabinet. These frames After these pieces were cut to final four sides of the plywood panels. This
are fairly easy to build - they're just 5/4 width and length, I cut a %"-wide by shouldleave Ya"xVa"tongtes that fit in the
solid oak frames tlrlrth Tq,'oak veneer ply- %"-deepgroove on the inside edge of each grooves in the frames. These rabbets
wood panels. piece.As shown in Figure 2, this groove is should be cut so the inside face to the
rHE srILEs. After I had decided on the positionedVa"fromthe inside face of each plywood panel is exactly flush with the
overall dimensionsof cabinet (allowing for piece. inside face of the frame, see Fig. 2.
the usable space requirements given Next, stub tenons are cut on eachofthe Finally, the frames and plywood panels
above),I cut the piecesfor the frame from rails. This is simply a matter of cutting can be glued and clamped together.

T4 WOODSMITH
 GROOVES
FORSHEtVES
.i::tl the framesare assembled,mark out
T::',lm S E EF I G U R3E
l" MEASUREMENIS
ro
BOTTOM OF GROOVE

v ::.r r'ositionofthe stoppedgtroovesusedto

::. .int the top (B), the bottom (D) and the
: . r ' , ,s h e l v e s( C a n d E ) , s e eF i g . 1 .
rx@
Tll r-ts'.
lI-f- + ' t
\

Iilll[-'
I cut eachofthese grooveswith .sEEFIGURE
4 TAMBoUR
I
.i l',,utef (using a piece of scrap plywood \
ESCAPE
.irlpecl to the frame as a guide for the I
' ise.ofthe router). Eachgroovestops1%"
-:.,rrt of both the front and back edgesof I il I l].+RABBETNS,DEFACE+
RA88EI INSIDEFACE
OF PTYWOOD
_FRONT EDGE EACKEDGE.
::.r fi'ame. . . exceptthe front edgeof the
'.:.:rdgroove from the top; it's stopped
lilllll-P'LYw"D
24%"
3"
:r',,mthe front edge, see Fig. 1.
( H^{MFER EDGES.After the grooves
'.rrre cut, I chamfered all edges
:r'ameson a router table with a chamfer
of the tiill l
: , 1 t s. e eF i g . 3 .
TAMBOURGROOVE 'i
I il i lfisEEF'GuRE2
l'he tambour for this cabinet rides in
:'n L-shapedgroove. Since the tambour
ifooves on both sides must match per-
tectly, I made a template to cut them.
liffil @ @
%" PTYWOODPANEI
l ( %"
THETEMPLATE. The dimensionsfor the
lemplate (shown in l'ig. 4) are based on lilllllzervwoo'nNer STOPGROOVE
/- 3" FROM
ltsing a router with a %ri' outer-diameter
guide bushing. This is a fairly standard ti||l FRONTEDGE

size,and shouldbe availablefor any make

of router. IiI]III%WEBFRAME- 9t,

lilllll
To make the template,cut a pieceof %" STOPGROOVE
JlasoniteI77A"wideby 24"long, and clamp - I %" FROM

b
it to oneof the cabinet'ssideframesso the
top edge of the template is 1%" from the
top edge of the frame.
t FRONTEDGE

Next, 2%" radius curvesare marked on (# | F--"------i 2th"

the front and back corners. The center

point for the front curve is ZVa"ftomboth
rffi
eclgesof the template.
The centerpoint ofthe backcurve is 2%"
fi'om the top edge and 31/a"from the back
eclge.After marking this backradius, con-
tinue the curve gently out to the back
edge, see Fig. 4. (Any gentle curve wiil GROOVE %"

n'ork here, as long as it's not too abrupt.) WEBFRAIAE

Once the curves are marked, cut the @
templateto shapewith a sabre saw. Then
carefullysandout any roughnesson the cut
edgesof the template.
ROUTING rHE GROOVE. Making the tem-
plate was the hard part. Routing the
groove is relatively easy. Tack the tem- FIGURE
4 posrnoN TEMpTATE
r%- FRoMTop EDcE
plate in piacewith smallbrads as shownin
Fig. 4. (This will positionthe template so
the groove is cut only on the solid wood,
and not on any part ofthe plywoodpanel.) l<:-\
Then rout the groove with a Vq"carbide- ;,,,."
2'/a R
ROUTE
COUNTER-CIOCKWISE
AROUNDIEMeIATE ^ .r'
zva"R
tipped straight router bit set to a cutting r\\- r - t -
depth of %e".
When routing the tambour groove on /, I usE7;'ROUTER
BtT GENTTE
CURVEFOR
the lffi side frame, start the router on the flwnn,/ra" GUTDE
BUsHTNG rAMBouR
rscarrf-
back edge (as shown in Fig. 4). Then to tl TEMPTaTE
rout the g"oove on the right side frame,
start the router at the front edge (at the ""
| I
2V;,+1 TACK TEMPIAIE IN PTACEWITH SMAI.TBRADS
self groove).By using this procedure,the *-Iv;'
router always moves to the left so the
rotation of the bit forcesthe guide bushing CONTINUETAMBOURGROOVE DOWN TO SHEIFGROOVE
againstthe template.

WOOOStvtttH l5
F I G U R E5
TOP,BOTTOMAND SHEIVES

I l4Vz'

ONE PIECE
Oncethe cabinet'ssidesare comDleted.the
t o p { B ) ,b o t t o m( D t a n dt w o s h e i v e (sC a n c l
E) can be cut from the remaining'/t" oak
U
.SIIDING SHEIF BASE plywood (see Cutting Diagram on page
19). Three of these pieces(the top, the
T.V. shelf,and the bottom)are ripped to a
u.idth of l5:%". The second shelf (E) is
ripped to a width of I47A',see !'ig. 5.
Thenall four piecesare cut to a length of
GRAIN
2834
DIRECTION 28:t/t".It's rather important that all four
piecesbe cut to exactly the same length.
To do this, I cut them a little long to begin
rvith and then trimmed them with the
Ys" %" RABBETON - | panelcuttingjig shownon page 13.
EACX ANDTwo ENDs-iI R.{IIBETS. Next, rabbets are cut on all
four pieces in order to form :t/""r :t/"''
NOTE: NO RABBET tongues,seel'ig. 6. Theserabbetsare cut
ON fRONTEDGE i on all four edgesofthreeofthe pieces(8, D
and C). However, the front edge of the
basefor the slidingshelf (E), is riol rab-
bcted,seeFig. 8.
Shop Note: When cutting rabbets in
pl1'u'oocl, you get the cleanestcut with a
roilter, rather than a table saw blacle.I
Lrsed the routertable(showninWoodsrttith
5/4 EDGING STRIPTO \o. 20) to cut theserabbets.
PIYWOOD SHEIF
Aftel the rabbetsare cut, all four pieces
czinbe glued and clampedinto the grooves
in the sideframes.
EDGING
A N D M O T D I N GS T R I P S
SHOUtDERWIIH fhe larv plyil'ood edges of these four
JOINT tINE
lrit,cesare coveredwith solid oak eclging v
%" x %" TONGUE strips.Filst, cut sevenedgingstripsout of
;-r-1stockto fit exactlvbetweenthe cabinet
sidcs.tOnll'seven ltiecesare neecledbe-
F I G U R E8
' 'o 3h" x 3,te"RABBETAND GROOVE l7'; B -*] caLlsethe front edge of the sliding shelf
'r," coRNER l*
r base is coveLetl',r'ith a simple lr" edging
TOP SHETF
stril). sec'F ig. 8.)
Next. cut a't/,"\'r/r" grooveon the edge
E D G I N GS T R I P of eachedgingstrip to fit on the tonguesof
t/a" x 3/e" RABBEI the ph'rvood,seeF-igs.7 and8. Oncethese
2t/z
MOI.DING STRIP TAMBOUR
GROOVE stlips are cut they can be glued and
: BEVETEDGE FOR TAMBOURCI,EARANCE clampcdto the plywood tongues.
60' BEVET ]toll)Ir-(; STRIPS.The top and bottom of
t the cabinetalsohavemoldeclfacingstrips,
STARTBEVET%" FROM FRONTEDGC SrDE
CROsS ECT|ON
seeF ig. 7. Two of these strips (oneon the
T,V SHEI.F front and one on the back of the top) are
used to cover the curve of the tambour.
'c The third molding strip (on the bottom)
a 1'/,"=1 ser'\'esas a kickboard.
|7t/z
To make these strips, rip three boards
2t/2"ulde and cut them to length to fit
betrveen the sides.Thencut a 30'bevelon
the back of the two strips for the top, see
cletailin Fig. 8. Next, round over the top
7:"CORNER outsidecornerof ali three pieceswith a %"
lrv;-lt
-
ROUND corner round bit. (I did this on the router
BOTTOM
table.) And finally, cut a t/q"d,eepx r/n"
t-l SHEI.F
wide rabbet oppositethe roundedcorners.
D
After these strips are cut, they can be
x %" RABBET giued to the edging strips.
2vi i*l l'-''
T H ES L I D I N G
SHETF v
I
Dependingon what you plan to use this
cabinet for, the sliding shelf may not be

r6 Wooost'ltrH
 :.r.(essai'y.I addedit for a video recorder F I G U R9E
:'(-cause mostrecordersneedaccessto the
,CHAMFERFRONTEDGE
: ,1)to loaclthe video cassette. 3h x 3h" RABBEI
v The width of this slidine shelf is cut a
' :.aIof 2" lessthan "/e" x
3/a"RABBETON FRONI EDGE ONLY
the insidewidth of the
r,linet (to aliow 1" spaceon both ends).
I'hedepthis exactlythe sameas the depth
I ' t h e b a s es h e l f( E ) .
-\fter this slidingshelfis cut to size,cut a
DADO fOR SHEIF SI.IDE
. rabbet on the front edge to leave a th" DEEPx | 7r" WIDE
:, 'lrgue,seeFig. 9. Thenthe pull bar (O)is
:':1r1red to a width of 2", and alk" x tYe"
!'r'.)oveis cut to mate with the tonEueon
: ir,..helf. Finally,a fingergrip is cul on the
i,:ickof the pull bar with a Yz"covebit (on
:he fouter table),seedetail in t'ig. 9.
The sliding shelf is mountedto the base FlcuRErol- 2s"---.* -
-helf with metal drawer (shelOslides.The 1 %" prywooD
,,nesI used require two dadoeson the
i rottomof the slidingshelffor plasticguide

I
)'ilnners.Theseslides(with comoletein-
.tluctions)are availablefrom The Woocl- - - e"-*] 43/;'
i
l.orkers'Store Cataloe (Cat. No.
I ) r ' 0 3 1 - 1 6$"1, 3 . 9 5p e r p a i r ) . ------7_-|
sror FoRcoeos-/ |
THECABINETBACK 1 7") 17"
.\lthough there'sno backon the part ofthe
cabinetbehindthe T.V. set, I wantedto 1"r""
l1
arld a back behind the shelf area to C-)-r
strengthenthe cabinet (to prevent rack- %- GROOVE x Vq" DEEP I
ing). I went all out and madea web frame CENTEREDON STOCK 4I/;'

u'ith a %" plywoodpanel,seeFig. 10.

This frame fits betweenthe sidesof the sTil.E
v cabinet and is attached (screwecl)to the RAII.
backeclgeof the T.V. shelfandto the back
edgeof the cabinet'sbottom. F I G U R EI I
l'irst, cut the rails and stilesto sizeto fit
t his area.Then cut a t/t"x Vt"grooveon the % WEB FRAME
insicleedge of eachpiecefor the plywoocl BEVEI FOR IAMBOUR
- CTEARANCE
panel.Finally, cut %"-longstub tenonson
the endsofthe rails to fit the grooves,see MOIDING STRIP
IK
,letail in l'ig. 10. Beforegluing this rreb
flame together, I cut two slots in the pl.v- (A)%" PIYWOOD

u'oodpanel to run the wires for the video

equipment.
FINISHING WEB FRAME
FOR BACK
The tambour door and the slassdoorsstill
haveto bemountedto the cibinet. (Seethe
next two pages.)However, before these
cloorswere mounted,I finishedthe cabinet
rvith Watco Danish Oil.
SCREW
The best way we've founcl to apply BACK PANET
\\ratco oil (especiallyon open-poredwood INTO CASE
like oak)is to usea liberalamountof oil and
ri'et-sandall surfaceswith 220-grit (Wet- I
sTIDINGSHETF
TOP
or-Dry) siiiconcarbidepaper.
As you sand,small amountsof sawdust
rvill mix with the oil to form a thin naste
that fills the pores of the rnoocl.tli this \2" ptywooo
paste gets too thick, just add more oil as
.\'ousano.) D BOTTOMSHETF
When you're donesanding,wipe off the
excesspaste and oil, and let the whole - E D G I N GS T R I P 'I

thing sit for about I hour. Then add

anothercoat ofoil (without sanding).This
nrethodproducesa natural-lookine finish
that's as soft as a baby'sbottom.

Wooosurrn

IHE TAMEOUR
It just doesn'tseemfair that somethingas
mysterious as a tambour shouldbe so easy
to build. The secretbehinda tambour(roll-
top) is a simplepiece of canvas.The tam-
bour strips are glued to a canvas backing
that's flexibleenoughto follow the grooves
in the cabinet.That's it. Easy enough,but
it doesrequire somework.
The tambourI madefor the T.V. cabinet
is kind of a "roll-and-pleat"design. Each
tambour strip is a "custom-made"half-
round molding strip.
You need30 strips in all, but it's best to
make at least 40 becausethere's boundto
be somewaste. All of these strips are cut
from 414(1%0"thick) boards.As shown in
the Cutting Diagram, I used four 1Yz"'
wide boards, cut to length to match the
final width of the tambour. (This width
should be 283/a",which is %" Iess than the
distancebetweenthe tambour groovesin
the cabinet.)
RouNDEDGES. I useda router table and
table saw to make the half-round strips.
First I rounded over both edges of each
board with a 3/e"corner-round bit (on the
router table), see Fig. 1. Then I used a
notchedjig to cut off %"-thick strips on a
table saw, see Fig. 2. (More on this jig is
given on page 13.) It's just a matter of
repeatingthesestepsuntil you haveabout
40 half-round strips.
MOUNTING STRIP. YOU'I] AISO NCCd A
mountingstrip (usedto mount the lift bar).
I C u t S t / i ' - w i d eb o a r d s t o t h e f i n a l
I length of the tambour. Then round'
ouerbothedgeswith a s/t"corner-round bit.
PIACE30 sTRIPs
FACEDOWN
PIUSMOUNTING
STRIP
* SPREADTHIN TAYER
I9-Y.{K\'\-Z- BEAr RIGHT
ANcrE
SURFACE \9tl TO HO;D DOpN BAR
4Yif o',1;',Y-q,',f ';:::,'nt''"1:':,12
p Spreadthin layer of glue ouerbackof
J tumbour.Thenlay cenDas(or denim)
stnps are positioned square with br'rs. in place and roll doun with a rolling pin. torryuesto fit the t/t"-wid"e
18
This strip is %" thick by 1" wide (seeI'ig.
3). I used the jig again to resaw it off a
piece of 5/4 scrap.
sELEcrIoN.After the strips are cut, let
them sit for a day or two until they get all
the warping and twisting out of their sys-
tem. Then the selectionprocessbegins:
choosethe best of the bunch, avoiding
those that are badly warped or twistecl.
GLUINGJIG. To hold all these strips
togetherwhile gluingon the canvas,I used
a simplejig, seeFig. 4. This jig is just ttt'o
side bars with a !t/a"-deeprabbet on one
edge, and front and back cleats.
Lay the mountingstrip and the 30 tam-
bour strips face down on a piece of scrap
plywood,and tack the rabbeted side bars
a\ Use a notchedjig to rip the tarttbutc tl You'll alsoneeda 3/,'-thickmounting
Z strips to a thicknessof '/i'. Then re- rJ slnp. I cut this from a piece of 5l/1
peat processuntil you haue/10strips. scrap to get thefinal width of 1'/'i'.
PRESSAND SMOOTH CANVAS
OF GIUE ON STRIPS
6*:;1i,flL#tJ!_ilg,i;t
grooaes.
over the endsof the strips. (Makesurethe
strips are square with the hold-down
bars.) Then tack the back cleat in place,
pushthe strips tight against this cleat, and v
tack down the front cleat to hold them all
in place.
GLUEoN cANvAS.Now the canvasback-
ing canbe gluedto the backsofthe strips. I
used a light-weight artist's canvasthat's
availableat art stores. However, denim
(bluejean material) could also be used.
Spreada thin layer ofglue (I usedTite-
bond)acrossall ofthe strips. Then lay the
canvas(or denim)over the tambour strips
and pressit in placewith a veneerroller or
a rolling pin.
After about t hour, uery carefully take
the tambour out of the jig and "crack" the
joints. Ifany glue has seepedthrough the
cracks between the strips, you want to
crack them apart before the glue has a
chanceto harden.As you crack thejoints,
roll the tambour into a loose cylinder.
Standthis cylinderon end and let the glue
cure overnight.
RABBET. Sincethe strips of this tambour
a,-e 'th" thick, the outside edges of the
tambour need to be rabbeted to fit the
rur"-widegroovesin the cabinet.I cut these
rabbetson a table saw, see Fig. 6.
Set the height of the blade to Ieave a
'r,r,;"-thick
by t/n"-Iongtongue. It's best to
kind of sneakup on this cut, testing the fit
in the tambour g"oove until the tambour
slideseasily (without binding) but doesn't
v
rattle aroundtoo much.
GOOD STRIPS
FOR TAMBOUR
RIP %" FROM
% STOCK FOR
v
jlJ!i#;
WOODSMITH
 T H Et I F T B A R
,-]
lhe last step on the tambour is to make a T-
v .:i: bar to match the moldingstrips on the
'',p anclbottomofthe cabinet. 2t/z' \tl
Rip a board
:, ' a rviclthof 2Vz"andto a lencth that's %"
.,.ssthan the insidemeasurementof the I
-'abinet(to allow clearance).Then resawit ROUND OVER EDGESOF SI.OT
lip on edge)to a thicknessof Ts". WIIH VC"CORNERROUND

FINGERslor. I decidedto get a little -j-,

:r,nc1'.,r'iththe finger slot on the lift bar. 7 , " C O R N E RR O U N D
'i *ote, REsAwuFTBAR
ON BOTTOMEDGE To %" THrcKNEss
I )r'ill two l"-diameter holes 4" apart, see
i'ig. 7. Theseholesare centered1%"down
:i'omthe top edgeof the lift bar. Sincethe
irlttoln edgeofthe lift bar is rounded-over, F I G U R E8 TOP SHEI.F F I G U R E9
: hisputsthe finger slot at the uiszr,al center DOWN POSITION
,,f the lift bar. UP POSITION
i.J_l
After the holesare drilled, cleanout the
(enter with a sabre saw and file the
(t) TAMBOUR
E D G I N G- STRIP
rdges smooth.Then round-overthe inside STRIP
(tl
rrlges of the finger slot with a /t" corner- aKl
MOIDING IIFT BAR
rounclbit (onthe router table).Also, round STRIP
the bottom edge of the lift bar with a Yz" (!_,
FOAM
crrrner-round bit, seeFig. 7. I.IFTBAR
WEATHER
.{TTAcH. To mount the lift bar, first slide STRIPPING
the tambourinto the cabinet.Then the bar MOUNTING
STRIP
' (l)
is attached(from the back side) to the
mountingstrip with ,%"pan-headscrews. I.IFT8AR IO STRIP
FOAM MOUNIING STRIP
I usedpan-headscrewsbecauseI needed WEATHER WITH '/;' PAN HEAD
trr add a washer so the point of the screw STRIPPING SCREWAND %" GIASS-
,lirln'tgo throughthe front of the lift bar,
seecross-section in Fig. 8.)
Finally, I addeda pieceof weatherstrip M A T E R I A T St I S T
to the bottom ofthe mounting strip to act
v as a shockabsorber,see Fig. 9.
Overoff Dimensions:48t/z"H x 30"W - 19"[
A Sides (2) le x 1S3h - 44sh
B Top Sheff (l) 3h x 153/e- 283/q
GTASSDOORS
C T.V. Shelf (l ) 3h x 153/e- 283h
The last stepon this cabinetis to mountthe D Boitom Sheff (l) 3/ax 15a/c- 28Ya
smoked-glass doors. The whole trick to E Sfiding Sheff Bose (l) 3h x 143/s- 283/c
mountingglassdoorsis the harclu'are.The F Sliding Shelf (l ) lq x t6 - 26
hardware I used is available from The G S i d e S t i f e s( 2 ) lt/tc x 2 - 48
Woodworkers'Store catalog. H Side Roils (2) lVto x 2 - 153/q
The doorhingesare listed as "Pivot Hin- I Edging Srrips (7) lt(o x t1/q - 28
gesF or GlassDoors"Cat. No. D5612(po]- J Tqmbour Sfrips (40) tl/rc x 3/e- 28t/z
i s h e d c h r o m e ) ,$ 2 . 3 5 p e r p a i r . I w e n t K Mofding Pfeces(3) t3/tc x 21,/z- 28
aheadandmountedthe hinges(seel-ig. 10) rRONTEDGEOF
t lifi Bor (l) 3/ax 2Vz - 277h
EDGING STRIP,
%" FROM SIDE
in order to get the final measurementsfor M Bock Roils (2) t3 c x 2t/q - 28
the glassdoors. N B o c k S t i f e s( 2 ) t 3 c x 2 1 / q- 1 7
The height of eachdoor shouldbe a total O P u f fO u t B o r ( l ) B/tcx2-26
of '%" less than the height of the cabinet
opening.(This allows t'/yi'at the top and CUTTING DIAGRAM
bottom for the hinges.)The width of each 514 (11/tc"l x 5t/2"
door should allow :%a"between the two
doors and about :t/te"on the outside edEe
(betweenthe doorand the sideof the ca-b- 514 (lt/ro") x 5t/2" - 72"
inet). I had the doors cut (at a local glass
company)a total of %" less than one-half
/z
ri ith width of the cabinetopeningto allowa
little extra clearance. 414 1t27t"",x 5t/2" - 96"
The doorsare mountedin the U-channel
of the doorhingeandheld in placewith two
small screws and a friction plate. I also
mountedtwo "No-BoreGlasi Door Pulls"
Cat. No. D3410(PolishedChrome),92.95 414 (11Ac') x 5t/2" - 72"
each.Thesehandlesjustmountto the edge
of the glass. Finally, I added small mag-
netic catchesbehind the handlesto hold
the doors closed.

WooosurtH t9
 CoffeeThble
CLEANLINESWITH SUBTLE
Most of the time think of using a
router, I think in terms of making a Iot of
fancy molding cuts. But q router can also
be used to add a few subtle touches that
help define the shape and design of a
projeet.
This coffee table is a good example of
putting a router to work. Actually, I
should say a router table (like the one
shown in Woodsmith No. 20). I used a
router table to make most of the joints for
this table, as well as the molding (chamfer)
cuts on the pieces for the top and legs.
THEPTYWOODTOP
Normally, when building a table, I would
start with the base (the legs and aprons)
and then add the top. But for this coffee
table I found it easier to start with the top
becauseofthe way the notched corners of
the top fit around the legs, seedetail photo
at right.
cr.l'rrlNcrHE pr,ywooD. The first step is
to cut a pieceof %" plywood to size. (I used
oak-veneer plywood for this table.) The
plywood is ripped to a width of l8l2" first
and then cut to a length of 4412",seeFig. 1.
However, eutting a2' x 4' sheetof plywood
down to a 44Y2"Iength is very awkward
becauseyou can't usethe rip fenceto guide
the piece.Instead, I usedthe panel cutting
jig (shown on page 13) to cut the plywood
to length.
BANDINOSTRIPS
All four edges of the plywood top are
banded with solid (oak) edging strips.
Thesestrips are joined to the plywood with
20
A CENTS
.l
tongue and groovejoints, refer to Fig. 5. I
found it was best to cut the grooves in the
banding strips before cutting the tongues
on the plywood.
Cut the four strips to a final width of lYa'
and to rough length (about l" longer than
needed),see Fig. 1. Sincethese strips are
1%e"thick (the actual thickness of 4/4
hardwood) and the plywood is only %'
thick, the grooves should be slightly ofr-
center (sothe top faceofthe banding strips
is flush with the top face of the plywood).
CIlr THEGRoovns.Mark what will be the
top face ofeach banding strip. Then I used
a %" straight bit on the router table to cut
the %o"-deepgrooves. Set the fence
exactly lq" from the bit (see Fig. 3), and
use a feather clamp to force the marked
faceofthe strip againstthe fence, seeFig.
2. When the groove is cut, it shouldleave a
/r" shoulder on the top edge, then the la"
groove in the middle, and ftnally a s/rc"
shoulder on the bottom, see Fig. 5.
RABBET.Each ofthese pieeesalso has a clampedto the edges ofthe plywood top.
nbbet on tlte outside edge. (This rabbet is
used leter to mount the table top to the
eprons.) To cut this rabbet, switch to ag/t"
drriSbt bit set to a depth of cut of Ya".
Then adjust the fence so the rabbet leooes
a l6'-wide tongue, see Fig. 4.
This cut is made with the banding strip
on edge and the marked face of the strip
hcing ott. (Cutting the rabbet this way
enaresafairly cleancorneron the tongue.
ltis correr wiil be visible when the table
top ia jofurcd to the aprons.)
tot{cuEs oN PtYwooD
Next, tongues are cut on all four edgesof
tlte plywood top to fit the grooves in the
bending strips, see Fig. 6. Once again, I
did this on the router table. Set up the
router table to ctJta/q" xlt" rabbet using a
%'straight bit.
What you want to do is cut two rabbets
(one on each face) to leave a Yq,"-thick
tongu.ein the center, see Fig. 6. I made
several test cuts on a piece of scrap ply-
wood until the tongues fit snugly in the
gnooves.
IRIM BANDING srRlps. After the tongues
are cut on the plywood top, the banding
strips canbe cut to final length. The end of
each strip should stop at the shoulders of
the rabbets on the top faceofthe plywood,
refer to Fig. 10. This will Ieave an open
corner that fits around the legs of the
table.
ASSEMBTY
Now the banding strips can be glued and
WoonsurrH
 M A T E R I A L SL I S T

O v e r o l l D i m e n s i o n s :l 6 : H r 2 2 - W - 4 8 - !

A Plywood Top (l ) '.rlt'2-1412

'''orltr-18
B Shon Edgin9 Stnpr (21 -
'r'r 44vz
c long Edging Stnpr (2) r lrr - 44
D LegPixe: I|2) 't 'o
r 2ri - 18
E 't
Short Aprcal (2) ,o r 2t/z - 20
A
I Long Aprcar {2) '' tc r 21/z-
46 t|vz" % , , P [ Y W O O DT O P

Cl J I r r N G D I A G R A M
TENGIH OF BANDING STRIPSEQUAIS
5HOUI.DERIO SHOUI.DERI.ENGTHOF PIYWOOD

t3/16t' _72il
x 5t/2n

t3/r6,,
x 51/2il -72t'

Sincethere'sa rabbet on the outsideedses cRoSssEcTtoN

of all the bandingstrips, it helpsto cut a E A N D I N GS T R I P
small filler strip so the clamp contactsa
full-thicknessedge, see Fig. 7.
TRIMCORNERS. Once the glue is dry,
trim the excessplywood from the open
cornersofthe top, seel'ig. 10.I'inally, the
surfaceofthe table top shouldbe sandedto
removeany variationbetweenthe banding
strips and the plywood.
V-GROOVES
AND CHAMFER
CUTS
No matter how harcl I try, I find it very
difficult to get the faceof a plywoodtop to %" GROOVE x t/ro" DEE?
match perfectly with solid-woodbanding
strips.EvenwhenI'm successful, the solid
\voodstrips and plywood top will expand
anrl contract at clifferent rates with
s(,aso])al changesin humidity- so there's
r,.l,,st alu'ayssomevariationbetweenthe
: . ''.. - : i r ' 1 a c e s .
-,.'.l|ound this problem,I cut a small PI.ACESPACERIN
\'-;,' ..,. 1'ritht
WHII.ECI.AMPING
nt thejoint lineof the band-
ir,i -'.:'.: :,:.,1the plywood.This V-groove DEPTHOF GROOVE l0
rlra^!.:.'. '.,.i'..' rliffigu]fto see(or feel)any SI.IGHTIYIE55 IHAN 7S"
!ar:i.::' l. .1.:l.r- :\\'O SUrfaCeS. CONTINUE
V.GROOVE
IHROUGH END OF BANDING STRIP
I it.,-,i l, \'- Jl'rrrr\-e router bit on the
routef :11i'.i- : :'.ir^t:these cuts, SeeFig. 8.
T h e p , , i 1 ; ' .: ' : : . . . : . : s h , , u l r b
l e tight on the
j o i n t I i n r i l : . , i: i . , i , . r , : h, , f c L r ts E o u l t bl e a V-GROOVE
BtT--'\ i rece sloe oowN
scant :''. \\'i.t:. t',.i:lg this V-groove, I
c o n t i n u e di t , , . i : i , . ,t . i : h | e n ( l s r a i n o f t h e
b a n d i n gs l r ' : 1 , ..., . , . l : i . l r r .
CHAllIt'ERElx;r.s. -\l:rI the \--g|ooves
!' w e r e c u t . I n r a , i t .i 1 l t i i r : r . h : l t jr h a n t f e | c u t
o n a l l o f t h e o u t s i r l cr , l s r . , , i t h e b a n d i n g
s t r i p s . T h i s \ \ ' R : r 1 r , 1 1 1 . :, h , rr.. r . , , u t e rt.a b l e TRIM AWAY EXCESSTONGUE
FACES|DE DOWN L-----t_J--{CHAMFER
with a chamfer bir. set t'ic. tr. BtT

Woopsurrn
 IHE IEGS
In order to get blanks big enough for the
2"-squarelegs, I laminatedthree piecesof
4/4stockfor eachleg. First cut a total of 12
piecesto a rough length of 17"and rough
width of 21/q".Then glue three pieces
together to form each leg.
When the glue is dry, rip the legs down
to final sizeof 2" x 2", making two cuts in
order to keep the joint lines an equal dis- TENON IO MATCH MORTISE
tancefrom the outsidefacesofthe legs,see
Fig. 11. CHAIAFER
MoRTtsES.The legs are joined to the
apronswith mortiseand tenonjoints. (See
WoodsmithNo. 18 for completestep-by-
step instructionson making a mortise and
tenonjoint.)
The mortises on these legs are cut s/rc"
from the outsideedge, and %" down from
the top edgeof the leg, see Fig. 11. (This
top measurementallows enoughroom for
the top edgeof the apronand the tongueof
the bandingstrip, refer bo Fig. 16.)
I arranged the legs in their final position
and marked out the mortises so the face
F I G U RIE
5
grain of eachleg would be on the long side
of the table, and the edgegrain (with the
gluelines)wouldbe at the ends.Then I cut
the mortises on a drill press by drilling a T E N O N SI LONG r rr IHICK
seriesof holeswith as/e"bit.
CHAMFER EDGES.After lhe mortises
were cut, I chamferedall four corners and
the top andbottom edgesof the legson the
router table with a chamferbit. (Seepage Y
13 for more on this technique.)
THEAPRONS
Since the table's top has already been
built, the apronsmusl be cut to acceptthe
dimensionsof the top. Rip the four aprons
to a width of 2Yz". Then bheapronsare cut
GI.UCI.INESPARAI.I,EI
to length so they're equal to the length of WITH LONG APRON
the banding strips on the table top, plus
enoughfor the tenonson eachend.
I usedthe banding strips as a gaugeto CHAMFEREOTIOM EDGES
mark off the shoulder-to-shoulder length
of the aprons (the distancebetween the
shouldersofthe two tenons.)Then I added aprons,see Fig. 13. And then round olei'
2" (for the two l"-long tenons). the top outside edge with a /2" corner-
When cutting the tenons, I set up the round bit, see Fig. 14.
sawto makea test cut on a pieceofscrapto
A S S E M B TAYN D F I N I S H I N G
make sure the outside face of the apron I
met the chamferededge of the legs, see Now the apronsand legs can be glued and
Fig. 16. Oncethe outsideface was cut, I clampedtogether. Before tightening the
made a cut on the inside face to set the clamps,set the top in placeto hold everl-
thicknessofthe tenonso it fit snuglyin the thing square.
mortise. (This, in effect, is cutting two ADDTHEToP.When the glue is dry, the
rabbets,leavinga tenon to fit the width of top can be glued and clamped to the
the mortise.) aprons.Sincethere isn't a good clamping
Then the shoulderson the top and bot- surfaceon the top, place a piece of scrap
tom edge of the tenon are cut to fit the wood acrossthe width of the table top to
height of the mortise. Finally, round-over use as a surfacefor the C-clamps.
the corners of the tenon with a file so FINISHING.I applied three coats of
it fits the roundedendsofthe mortises,see Hope'sTung Oil Varnish to the table top
Fig. 12. and two coats to the legs. This finish is
ROUT EDGES. The last stepon the aprons very easy to apply and has just enough
is to chamferthe two bottom edgesof the varnish in it to protect the top.

zz WooDSMITH
 Tulki"gShqp
AN OPENFORUMFORCOMMENTS
AND QUESTIONS
All of these tools are available from However, I have to agree with Mr.
CHAIRSEATS
either the Garrett Wade or Woodcraft Wallace that a warning should be made.
I haueuu)oodworking questionthat I hope Supply catalogs. (Addresses are given in Our recommendationis that if your plane
yut, can enswer. I'm in theprocessof mak- the special catalog section of this issue.) has either a cast iron Y-yoke, or if you're
ing a set of walrrut bw stools,and sofw, For more information on old tools and not quite sure what type of metal it's made
I'ue cut all of the pieceswithput any prob- how they're used, an excellent source is of, don't try to crowbar the legs of the
lems. But when it came time to hollow out the book OLd,Ways of Working Wood by Y-yoke with a screwdriver. After all, it's a
the chair seat, I was stucle. Alex W. Bealer: $12.50 in the Garrett lot better to live with a working plane that
Whet I was haphry to d,ois d,ish out the Wade catalog. has a slightly sloppy adjustment than to
seat similar to the old office chair seats. FORTURNINGFINISHES
have one with no adjustment at all.
SOUTCES
But I can'tfigtne outthe bestmethodtodo
IHE HAIR.I.INE
CRACK
this (a router, or q,sand,er?).Do ym, haue We've received a lot of mail asking where
any suggest;ions? to purchase Behlen's Salad Bowl Finish In the article on the Mantel Clock (Wood-
(used on the goblets, Woodsmith No. 23), smith No. 24, page 8), we described a
Ray Fort and RenaissanceWax (used on the fruit method of cutting glassto fit the odd shape
Bloomfield, Iowa Bowl, l|oodsmith No. 2I). of the clock door. We also mentioned how
Both products can be purchased from we got lucky before we ran out of glass.
Whenever I'm faced with a task like this either Woodcraft Supply or Ganett Wade. Well, we spoke too soon. Soon after the
that requries a lot of work, my initial reac- Their addressesare listed in the special issuewas sent to the printer,.Dave noticed
tion is to grab the closestpower tool. But catalog section in this issue. a small problem. The glass had a 6" hair-
there are times when power tools simply Onefollow-up note I'd like to make about line fracture running right acrossthe face
won't work. Hollowing-out a chair seat is using the Renaissancewax for the fruit of the dial.
one of those times. bowl: After using the bowl for a while, it's Undaunted, I set out to try to cut the
In this case, you'll have to resort to becomeapparent that Behlen'sSaladBowl glassagain. Unfortunately, this time I ran
traditional hand tools (and traditional finish would have been a better choice. In out of glass, twice. And in the process, I
methods) to get the job done. There are fact, from now on, whenever we make also ran out of patience. But I was too
several hand tools that could be used: an anything that comes in contact with food stubborn to admit defeat . . . there had to
adz, a scorp, and inshave, or even a car- (like the Canister Set on page 10), this is be a way.
ver's spoongouge. the finish we'll use. I finally decidedto try a piece of Plexi-
Traditionally, chair-makers used an adz glas,just to seehow it would work. And to
(pronounced add's) to rough-out chair A PTANEWARNINO
be honest, I was pleasantly surprised.
seats. An adz is an oldtimer's tool that lro Woodsmith No. 23, you described a The nicest thing about using Plexiglas is
looks somethinglike a small garden hoe - method to tighten up the Y-yoke of a hand that it can be cut on a band saw, or with a
the blade (either flat or curved) is at a 90" plane. Using your method, I remoaed,the sabre saw, just like a piece of plywood.
angle to the handle. brass knob and used a screwdriuer to This eliminated having to rely on Lady
The chair-maker would stand on the crowbar one of the legs forward, (so it Luck when it came time to cut the arch.
edgesofthe seat blank, and swing the adz touchesthe front shoulder of the groove), After cutting out the arch in the Plexi-
between his feet to rough out the hollow. and,the other leg back (until it touchesthe glas (on the first try, by the way), I applied
However, if the adz fadesoff the mark and back shoulder of the grooue). a coat of paste wax to both sides of my
hits your foot, you'll lose a pair ofshoes at As ittunwd, out, theY-gokeonmy hand "unbreakable glass" to protect it from
best. Rather than skipping around the plane was made of cast iron. And as I was scratches. Then I installed it in the door
shopwith a bloody foot, I'd ratherjust skip trying this procedure, one of the legsof the frame of the clock.
this step and use an inshave or a scorp to Y-yoke broke off. I think some sort of cor- To unknowing eyes, it looks exactly like
rough-out the seat. rection should be made so that no one else I got lucky again.
An inshave is basically a two-handled ruins a good plane using this procedure.
draw knife with a curved blade that makes SHIFIYMITERS
a concavecut. A scorp is kind of a small RaEmond,B. Wallace I tried, the method of using sandpaper on
inshave; it has a single handle with a U- Peoria, Illinois the mi.ter gauge fence to stop the pieces
shaped cutting blade. Another tool that from creeping as d,escribediz Woodsmith
couldbe usedis a carver's spoongouge. (Of After reading Mr. Wallace's letter, I No. 23. The on\y problem I had,was that
all these, I think my first choicewould be checkedall of the planesin our shopto see the grit of the sandpaper fell off, and
a scorp.) if any had a castiron Y-yoke. I did find one: scratchedthe top of my table saw.
After the basic shape of the seat is my grandfather's 90-year-old wooden I'ae found, qnother method that works
roughed-out with one of these tools, the jointer plane. The mere thought ofbreak- well for me. I simplE apply double-faced
biggest headacheis trying to smooth out ing the Y-yoke on that particular plane tape to the miter fence. Then to preuent the
the ridges. Here, I'd use a curved scraper made me very nervous. stockfrom becomirryooerly attached,to the
blade. When I got the seat fairly smooth, Other than this onejointer plane, all the miter fence, I coat the tape with a oeryfine
I'd switch to a modern power tool, an or- other planes in our shop (we have about a dusti.ngof sawdust.
! bital sander, to sand the chair seat abso- dozen planes, some of them rather old),
lutely smooth (to eliminate any chanceof were equipped with a steel Y-yoke which Kenneth C. Hamm
splinters in the hind-quarters). can be bent without breakase. Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin

WooostrltrH 23
 Po
SPECIAL
INTOSOMETHING
HOW TO TURNPOPCORN
Severalyears ago Sundaynight meant one
thing: watching Bonanza. . . with a big
bowl of popcorn. I miss the weekly epi-
sodes of Bonanza, but the tradition of
watchingSundayT.V. with a big bowl of
popcornis alive and well.
The only trouble is that my plastic pop-
cornbowlhasfinally begunto showits age.
So I decidedto turn a woodenreplacement
out of koa (a native hardwoodof Hawaii).
With the price of koa being what it is, I
used the stave constructionmethod de-
scribedon page8 to reducethe amountof
lumber needed.
THEBOWL
I wantedthe popcornbowl to be about 10"
in diameter,and 4" in height (to hold lots of
popcorn). So with these dimensionsin
hand, I drew out the profile on paper and
found that I neededa twelve-sidedcylin-
der with Z'/t"-widestaves.
THEcyLINDEn.To make a twelve-sided
cylinder, the bevel on eachpieceis cut at
15'. After the pieces are bevel-ripped,
they're cut to a rough length of 6" (to allow
for some waste during the turning pro-
cess).Then the cylinderis assembled,and slightly. I used a square-nosedscraperto The popcornbowl lid has a doublerabbet
mounted on the lathe using the method taper the walls to %" thicknessat the rim.cut on the rim. This doublerabbet keeps
describedon page 8. THEFLoATINctsASE.The final step on the outsideedgeof the lid %"abovethe rim
ATTAcHING THEBASE.After the cylinder the bowl is to createa "floating" base.To of the bowl, see Fig. 2. This gap visually
is trued on the lathe, I reducedthe thick- do this, I simply used a parting tool to separatesthe vertical grain of the bowl
ness on the inside walls to %". Then the undercutthe remainingpart of the rabbet from the horizontalgrain on the lid.
base is mounted on the laLhe, and a 3/"" on the base.(Thisis the shadedareain l-ig. After the doublerabbetis cut on the rim,
wide rabbet is cut so the remaining 3.) Then the bottom corner ofthe cylinclerI used a round-nosedscraperto form the
shoulderfits the insideof the cylinder, see wall is chamfered,and the bowl is finish neck around the knob.
Fig. 3. Finally, the baseand cylinder are sandedand removedfrom the lathe. Then I cut a slight hollow on top of the
clampedtogetherusingthe tail stockof the knob, and a gentle curve on the main body
T H Et I D of the lid. l'inally the lid is finishedsanded,
Iathe. (For a detaileddescriptionon turn-
ing a staveconstructedbowl, seepage10.) There's really only one major difference and separatedfrom the faceplate.
THE INSIDEwALLs. For this bowl, I betweenthe lid for this popcornbowl and To finish the popcornbowl, I usedthree
wanted to taper the inside walls just the lids used for the canisters(page 10). coatsBehlen'sSaladBowl Finish.
F I G U R EI

l_2%"____n
watl %" THtcx
ON TOPEDGE
STAVE4/4 STOCK

F I G U R3E
EOTTOM CORNER

CUI IWEIVEsTAVEs FINAI STEP:UNDERCUT

SHOUIDEN OF RAIIET

24 WoODSMITH