Patrón para Hacer Dinosaurios de Peluche.

cholyknight.
com
herbivore dinosaurs
plush sewing pattern
herbivore dinosaurs plush 2 introduction
herbivore dinosaurs
plush sewing pattern
Everyone has a favorite dinosaur! If yours is a gentle lovable herbivore, then this bundle
has exactly what you need! It includes templates to make three major kinds of herbivores, a
brontosaurus, triceratops, and stegosaurus. They have the same big bodies with wide,
chunky feet so it makes their instructions very similar. These basic bodies make it easy to
adapt it to other subtle dino variations like the apatosaurus, diplodocus, and styracosaurus.
difficulty: skills needed:

• ladder stitch
• fusible web applique
The most challenging part of this plush might • sewing curves (straight to curved pieces,
come from all the curves in the nose and chin inner to outer curves, outer to outer curves,
area as well as the pivoting when sewing the etc.)
belly. • darts
• matching notches & points
Be sure to mark and pin your points carefully • basting
before sewing for an easier time. • gathering; gathering stitch
sew desu ne?

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// ©2021 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
herbivore dinosaurs plush 3 introduction
fabric & notions

For information
on suggested
fabrics, see the
next page.
brontosaurus: triceratops: stegosaurus:

makes one plush: about makes one plush: about makes one plush: about
11” tall (from bottom of feet 5” tall (from bottom of feet to 5” tall (from bottom of feet to
to top of head), 11” long top of head, not horns), 11” top of head, not plates), 11”
(from nose to tip of tail), and long (from nose to tip of tail), long (from nose to tip of tail),
5” wide (from each side of and 5” wide (from each side and 5” wide (from each side
body) of body) of body)
• 1/3 yd. of fabric for main • 1/3 yd. of fabric for main • ¼ yd. of fabric for main
body body body
• 2/3 yd. (or 5” x 20”) of • ½ yd. (or 5” x 13”) of lighter • ½ yd. (or 5” x 14”) of lighter
lighter accent fabric for accent fabric for belly accent fabric for belly
belly • 1/8 yd. of accent fabric for • ¼ yd. of accent fabric for
• optional 1/8 yd. (or 7” horns back plates
x 5”) of accent fabric for • 10” x 6” of quilt batting or • 1/8 yd. of accent fabric for
body spikes scrap plush fabric tail spikes
• 11” x 9” of quilt batting or
scrap plush fabric
other materials for all styles:

• 4” x 4” scrap of black • 3” x 3” scrap of light accent • 6” x 10” piece of scrap fabric
applique fabric for eyes (such applique fabric for toe nails for poly pellet pouch
as felt, cotton, flannel, etc.) • optional 2” x 2” scrap of • poly pellets
• 3” x 3” scrap of accent pink applique fabric for blush • spoon or funnel for filling
applique fabric for eye • optional 4” x 4” scrap of poly pellets
highlights accent applique fabric for • matching sewing thread
• 3” x 3” scrap of white spots • basic sewing tools *see pages
applique fabric for eye shines • 7” x 7” piece of light or heavy 5-6 for more info
• duty fusible web • poly-fil stuffing
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herbivore dinosaurs plush 4 materials & notions
suggested fabrics
short faux fur
Any of the variations of fleece and minky shown
at the left will work nicely for this pattern. Slightly
minky thick versions with a bit of stretch along the
crosswise grain of the fabric work the best.
See below for how different faux fur fabrics look
with this design.
cuddle fleece
Stretchy fabrics like these create a squat, round
shape when stuffed. Non-stretchy fabrics, like felt
micro fleece or cotton, won’t create this effect and result in an
elongated shape as shown.
anti-pill fleece
fleece
minky vs. felt
paper on
one side
adhesive on
the other
fusible web: poly pellets: quilt batting:

• A sheet of adhesive that • Small plastic beads used to • In this project, this is used
is ironed onto fabric. That provide weight for a plush to provide extra structure
fabric can then be fused for proper balance. Poly-fil for the stegosaurus back
to a new fabric like an is the major manufacturer. plates and triceratops
iron-on patch. It comes Dry beans or rice can also neck frill. A thin variety
in pre-packaged sheets be used, but are not water works especially well. You
and by the yard. Brands safe. could also use spare scrap
include Wonder Under material like fleece, felt, or
by Pellon and Heat n’ anything else easy to sew
Bond in layers.
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herbivore dinosaurs plush 5 starter tools
starter tools
If you’re new to sewing and a little baffled by all the sewing tools needed to get started, check out
the list here. It describes all the absolute basics for tackling a project in a format that lets you choose
how much you want to spend. Some of these items you might already have around the house!
As you collect tools for your arsenal over time, consider adding tools that are more job-specific --
these items come with the note suggesting buying all 3. Just buy these in the order shown as your
funds allow. This will build your collection from more generic tools to more specific, and you’ll be
able to tackle more techniques and projects in the future!
good better best

your hands starter mid-range
machine
machine machine
sewing
Takes a bit longer

than using a Found at Usually found at
machine, but you department stores sewing machine
have more control for $50-150. All you dealers for
over where you stitch. Great for when need is a straight and zigzag stitch, $150-400. Will have fewer issues
you’re starting out or doing fine detail and preferably variable stitch length. than a cheaper machine. Best if you’re
work! serious about sewing.
↓ consider buying all 3 as funds allow ↓

scissors
craft fabric embroidery

scissors scissors scissors
Anything that will Cost $5-15 at most Tiny and accurate,
cut paper and fabric. sewing stores. Much these are ideal for
Might cause some sharper and should precise cutting work
frustration, but it’ll get you started. only be used for fabric. Spring-loaded and getting where larger scissors can’t
varieties are easy on your hands. reach.

thread
all-purpose heavy duty thread

thread thread conditioner
Most basic polyester Nice for hand sewn Strengthens and
threads are perfect parts that need prevents tangles
for plush sewing. extra strength, like in your thread for
Nothing fancy required. attaching heads, eyes & noses, etc. machine and hand-sewing.

plastic head metal pins ball-point
pins pins
pins
Pins with a metal

All-purpose pin head so they’re Ideal when using
in a relatively long safe to iron. The knit fabrics in
length. Big plastic small head is less plushes. Ball-point
head is easy to see, but melts when likely to catch on your thread while pin tip passes through knit fabrics
ironed. hand-sewing easily.
sew desu ne?

herbivore dinosaurs plush 6 starter tools
good better best

needles
sharps universal fabric

A basic hand-sewing needles specific
needle. You’ll always need Can handle a needles
one of these regardless of variety of basic If using special fabric,
whether or not you have plush fabrics on pick up needles that
a machine. They’ll get machine. Might be are specific to it, such
into places that machines can’t. troublesome on specialty fabrics. as stretch needles for knits.
chopstick point hemostats

turning
Narrow and turner A medical tool

point
precise, but just Specifically that’s narrow and

blunt enough to designed to blunt but also grips.
avoid poking holes. turn points, so it Turns thin pieces
You can use both sides depending on works very intuitively. Hard to get very and grabs stuffing for small areas.
the narrowness you need. narrow areas though. Incredibly useful.

measuring
tape measure ruler/yard quilting

Super cheap and great stick ruler
for measuring curves. More accurate than Measures in two
Flexible so it gets into a tape measure dimensions; great
hard-to-reach areas. since it’s metal or for checking if
plastic and won’t bend on you. things are parallel or perpendicular.
pencils chalk fabric

marking
Usually washes out or Great on dark marker

brushes away. Hard to fabrics. Brushes Specially designed
mark some slippery or away easily; even to mark fabrics and
fluffy fabrics. Colored better with a cloth. wash away with
pencils are slightly better. Not as precise as a pencil. water. Precise and clear.

basting
glue &
glue stick hot glue fabric glue

Washable kinds are Creates a Ideal glue for basting
great for basting fabric quick-drying, strong fabric. Takes longer to
pieces together. Not bond so it’s great dry but is best suited to
the strongest bond, for plush pieces that fabric. More accurate
but it’ll do. are awkward to hold than a glue stick.
together before sewing.
Seam ripper iron/ironing board

and...
Don’t need anything fancy for this. Unlike other types of sewing, plush
Everyone makes mistakes and everyone projects don’t need much ironing.
needs a seam ripper. But they’re handy for fusible web
applique or for pressing crisp
fabrics.
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herbivore dinosaurs plush 7 the pattern pieces
assembling the pattern

For a brontosaurus, print pages 39-42 If you’re unfamiliar with printing and assembling
For a triceratops, print pages 43-47 a .pdf pattern, read the steps below.
For a stegosaurus, print pages 48-52.
1 2 3
print the pattern measure the test square assemble the pages
At the print dialog box, check the Print the first page of the pattern. Print the remaining pages needed
box that says print at “Actual Size” or Measure the test square to be sure for the pattern. Gather your total
100%. Any other selection (such as it matches the dimensions printed pages and check the upper corner to
“Fit to page”) will distort the pattern in the pattern. If it’s smaller than the be sure to you’ve collected them all.
so it’s slightly larger or smaller and printed size, increase your printer
we don’t want that. settings. If it’s larger, decrease the
printer settings.
4 5 6
trim the margins align the sheets cut the pattern
Your printer will likely have a margin To line up the pattern pages, match You can trace the patterns onto a
that ensures your image doesn’t up the corresponding diamond different paper, or you can also just
print to the very edge. Trim off this shapes. Each diamond will have cut them straight from the printer
blank margin edge. This will give you a letter, so it’s simply a matter of paper -- be sure that each piece is
pages that overlap during assembly. matching A1 to A2, B3 to B4 and so fully taped together along the joins
If you trim across the gray outline on. The faint gray lines indicate the so they don’t fall apart when you cut
boxes, this will give you pages that border of every page, you can line them.
don’t overlap but rather butt against those up as well. When the diamond
each other. goes together, tape it in place.
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herbivore dinosaurs plush 8 cutting the fabric
cutting the fabric

With your supplies gathered and your pattern printed, you can finally move onto cutting your fabric.
If you’re unfamiliar with the procedure, see the steps here. Also check out the cutting layout for an
at-a-glance view of how your pieces should look.
1 2 3 4
place the pattern pin the pattern cut the pattern clean up the fur
Place pattern on the fabric, Pin the pattern in place, Using the paper as a If using a fluffy or furry
and make sure the stretch use pattern weights, or template, cut out the fabric, shake away the
line matches the stretch trace the outline of the fabric. Cut the required excess fluff before starting
of the fabric. The nap line pattern with a washable amount according to the to sew.
should go in the direction marker. pattern.
of the fur.
cutting layout: brontosaurus (a pieces)

main body fabric s t r et c h belly
2/3 yd.; 24” long

1/3 yd.; 12” long
A2
A10 A10
n a p / p i le
A7 A8 A7
A8 A8
A3 A1 A1
n a p / pi le
A5 A5 A6 A6
A8 A4
33” wide
optional body
spikes scrap fabric
na p / p i l e
1/8 yd.
10” long
A11
A11
A9
8” wide 5” wide
A9
6” wide
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herbivore dinosaurs plush 9 cutting the fabric
cutting layout example: triceratops (b pieces)

belly
s t r et c h
½ yd.; 18” long

main body fabric
1/3 yd.; 12” long

B2 B4
B7 B8 B7 B10
n a p/ pile
n a p/ pile
B8 B8 B8
B1 B1 B3
B5 B5 B10
B6 B6
35” wide
5” wide
horn fabric quilt batting
n a p /p i le
scrap fabric
1/8 yd.
6” long
B12 B12 B12 B12 B11
10” long
B11
B10 B9
16” wide
10” wide
B9
6” wide
cutting layout example: stegosaurus (c pieces)

main body fabric s t r et c h belly
¼ yd.; 9” long
½ yd.; 18” long

C2
n a p / p i le
C6
C7 C8 C7 C11
C10 C10
C3
C4
C8 C8 C8 C1 C1
n a p / p i le
C5 C5 C6
44” wide
plate fabric quilt batting
9” long
¼ yd.; 9” long
C12 C12 C12 C12

C14 C14 C14 C14 C12 C12
na p / p i l e
C14 C14
C12 C12 C12 C12 C12 C12
C13 C13 C13 C13 5” wide

C13 C13 C13 C13 C13 C13 C13 C13
22” wide 11” wide scrap fabric

10” long
C9
tail spike fabric
n a p /p i l e
C9
1/8 yd.
C15 C15 C15 C15
14” wide 6” wide
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herbivore dinosaurs plush 10 sewing the plush
before you begin:

• Briefly read the project instructions so you know what to expect.
• If desired, mark the cut fabric pieces with the markings and symbols from the pattern. Or wait until the
applicable step before transferring.
• Note that a ¼” seam allowance is used throughout the project.
sewing the plush

let’s get started!
1. prep the face applique

trace markings eye highlight: accent color hold applique
onto paper side of eyes: black piece while sliding
fusible web eye shines: white paper away
a. Grab your fusible web and your face templates and trace the pieces you desire for your dinosaur.
You should have at least two eyes, two nostrils, and two eye shines. But you can also add in blush
and eye highlights.
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side of the fusible web onto the wrong side of your corresponding
applique fabrics. The eyes and nostrils should be fused to black. The eye highlights go on an accent
color, the blush goes on pink, and the eye shines go on white.
c. Cut out the face pieces and arrange the eyes on the head side (A1/B1/C1) piece from your fabric.
Set your paper pattern on top of the fabric piece (right sides up). Then align the applique piece on
top where the placement markings are. Next, carefully pull the paper pattern away while holding the
applique piece in place.
sew desu ne?

2. fuse the face applique

triceratops:
tuck blush add
underneath smaller
(if using) pieces next
a. Arrange the eyes first. If you’re using blush, tuck the piece underneath the eye.
Fuse the eye in place with your iron. Use a press cloth, such as a scrap piece of cotton. This will help
protect any polyester or fuzzy fabrics from melting or scorching.
b. Next, align the smaller pieces like the eye highlights, eye shines, and nostrils. Arrange and fuse
them in the same way using the paper pattern (and the photo) as a guide. Make sure you have both
sides of the head when complete.
c. The third photo shows how this might look for the triceratops.
3. fuse the body spots

add spots
to body if
desired add
toenails
to inner
legs
add
toenails
to legs
a. If you would like additional spots and toenails for your dinosaur’s body, you can also add them now.
Trace the templates from the paper pattern like with the face pieces. Then apply them to your body
(A7/B7/C7) and inner leg pieces (A5-6/B5-6/C5-6) using the guides to help with placement.
b. If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can keep the applique pieces fused without sewing, or you
can sew them in place a number of ways. I’ve used a zigzag stitch here.
Ą This should complete all the applique. Refer to the next step for some other applique stitching
options.
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3a. other applique options

4
applique whip
2
straight stitch: 3
great for felt stitch 1
a. Other good options for applique include a straight stitch, which involves sewing around the edge of
the applique pieces with a straight stitch using matching thread -- about 1/8” in from the edge.
b. You can also applique by hand; I prefer a whip stitch. Thread a hand-sewing needle with some
matching thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the project; about 1/8” in from the
edge of the applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from the curve, just outside of the applique
shape. This completes one stitch.
c. For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the previous stitch and 1/8” in
from the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just outside the applique shape.
Continue this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.
Part 1: the head

for a brontosaurus or stegosaurus: continue below with step 4.
for a triceratops: skip ahead to step 18.
4. sew the head front

match up sew from open up
front edge point 3 to when complete
point 5
a. Grab both of your head side pieces (A1 or C1). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew them together along the front edge. If you’re keeping track with the points found on the paper
pattern, this goes from point 3 to point 5.
c. Open up the pieces when complete.
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5. align the forehead

line up forehead
with head sides line up sew along
1 1 point 3 point 3 only
3
1 2 2 1
3
3
2 2
3
a. Grab your forehead piece (A2 or C2) as well as your head side pieces so far. In the next few steps
we’ll be joining the forehead to the head side, around points 1, 2, and 3.
b. Start by taking your forehead and align the center bottom with the center seam at point 3.
c. Sew the forehead to the head side along just point 3.
6. clip the head corners

a. Flip up the forehead (A2 or open up clip head
C2) when complete. pieces when side at point 2
complete
b. Up next, the upper parts
of the head side (A1 or
C1) will join to the sides of
the forehead. To make this 2 2
easier, make a small 1/8”
clip into the seam allowance
at point 2. This will help
the fabric bend and stretch
better for the next step.
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7. sew the forehead

a. Hold one of your head line up hold
side pieces (A1 or C1) and points 1 & 2 1 1
1 point 3
align it with the side of your while
forehead (A2 or C2). Line 1 aligning
up points 1 and 2. points 1
&2
b. It helps to hold point 3 at the 2 3 2
center while stretching the

rest of the head side to fit.
Line up the points and pin
the fabrics together. a b
c. Sew the head side to the complete
forehead from point 1, down 1
sew forehead
through point 2, and ending from
at point 3. point 1
down to
d. Repeat on the other side point 3
of the forehead, starting at 2
point 1 and ending at point 3 3
for the full forehead.
c d
for a stegosaurus: skip ahead to step 13.
8. align the chin

5 5
align sew along
head line up point 5
front with point 5
4 4 chin 5
5
4 4
a. Grab your chin piece (A3) as well as your head sides so far. In the next few steps we’ll be joining the
chin to the bottom of the head side, through points 4 and 5.
b. Begin by lining up the center bottom of the head side (point 5) with the center top of the chin (also
at point 5).
c. Sew the pieces together at point 5 for just a short distance. This will help keep the pieces centered.
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9. sew the chin

line 4 hold onto point 5 sew from point 5
up and line up point 4 around to point 4
point 4
5
5
4 4
4
4
a. Take one of the head side pieces and align it over one half of the chin (A3), matching up point 4.
b. It helps to hold onto point 5 with one hand while lining up the fabric with point 4. Pin the fabrics
together.
c. Sew from point 5 around to point 4 to join the chin to the head side.
10. finish the chin

a. Repeat step 9 on the other view from chin side:
side of the chin (A3), sewing repeat
5 on both
from point 5 to point 4. The sides
first photo shows how this
looks with the head fabric on
top.
b. The second photo shows 4
4
how it looks with the chin
fabric on top.
sew desu ne?

11. sew the head back

sew completed
along head back
notched
edge only
a. Grab your head back pieces (A10). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. Sew them together along the notched edge. Leave the other edges free.
c. Open up the pieces when complete for the full head back.
12. attach the head back

line up notch
with center back the
finished
head!
4 leave
4 4 4
neck open
a. Grab your head front so far (A1-2) and open up the pieces with the right side facing up.
b. Grab your head back so far (A10) and align it over the head front so the upper curved areas line up
and right sides are facing. The center seam on the head back should align with the center notch on
the forehead (A2). And if you’re keeping track, the bottom corners at point 4 should also match up.
c. Sew the head back to the head front all along the upper edge. Leave the bottom open for the neck
later.
Ą This completes the head for the brontosaurus! Set it aside for a moment while we work on
the body. Skip ahead to step 22 for the body.
sew desu ne?

for the stegosaurus:

13. sew the head back
a. Grab your head back pieces completed
(C10). Align them with right head back
sides facing and raw edges sew along
matching up. Sew them notched edge
together along the notched only
edge. Leave the other edges
free.
b. Open up the pieces when
complete for the full head
back.
14. attach the head back

line up notch
with center back
4
4 4
4 4 4 leave
bottom open
for chin
a. Grab your head front so far (C1-2) and open up the pieces with the right side facing up.
b. Grab your head back so far (C10) and align it over the head front so the upper curved areas line up
and right sides are facing. The center seam on the head back should align with the center notch on
the forehead (C2). And if you’re keeping track, the bottom corners at point 4 should also match up.
c. Sew the head back to the head front all along the upper edge. Leave the bottom open for the chin
next.
sew desu ne?

15. align the chin

align head line up sew along
front with chin point 5 point 5
5
5
4
5
5
4 4
4
a. Grab your chin piece (C3) as well as your head so far. In the next few steps we’ll be joining the chin
to the bottom of the head, through points 4 and 5.
b. Begin by lining up the center bottom of the head side (point 5) with the center top of the chin (also
at point 5).
c. Sew the pieces together at point 5 for just a short distance. This will help keep the pieces centered.
16. sew the chin

line up hold onto
point 4 point 5 and 5
line up point 4
5 5
4
4 4
4
4
sew from point
5, through point 4
to the corner
a. Take one of the head side pieces and align it over one half of the chin (C3), matching up point 4.
together.
c. Sew from point 5 around to point 4 and down to the lower corner to join the chin to the head side.
sew desu ne?

17. finish the chin

view from the finished
repeat chin side:
5
on both head!
sides
4 4
a. Repeat step 16 on the other side of the chin (C3), sewing from point 5 to point 4. The first photo
shows how this looks with the head fabric on top.
b. The second photo shows how it looks with the chin fabric on top.
c. Turn the head right side out when complete.
Ą This completes the head for the stegosaurus! Set it aside for a moment while we work on the
body. Skip ahead to step 22 for that.
for the triceratops:

18. sew the forehead
a. Grab your forehead piece line up forehead
(B2) as well as your head with head sides 2
bend
side pieces so far. In the next 1 1
forehead 2 1
few steps we’ll be joining the to fit
forehead to the head sides, 2
3
1
2 2 2
around points 1, 2, and 3.
3
1 1
b. Start by taking your forehead
and bending it around the 3 3 3 3
upper edge of the head side. a b
Line up points 1, 2, and 3.
Pin the fabrics together. fully attached
c. Sew the forehead to the line up 2
forehead
head side along points 1, 2, points 1,
2, & 3
and 3.
1
d. Repeat with the other side of
the forehead and the other
head side so both sides are 3
joined.
c d
sew desu ne?

19. align the chin

5
sew along
line up
5 point 5
point 5
align 5
head front
4 4 with chin
5
4 4
a. Grab your chin piece (B3) as well as your head so far. In the next few steps we’ll be joining the chin
to the bottom of the head, through points 4 and 5.
b. Begin by lining up the center bottom of the forehead (point 5) with the center top of the chin (also
at point 5).
c. Sew the pieces together at point 5 for just a short distance.
20. sew the chin

hold onto point 5 sew from point 5
line up around to point 4
point 4 and line up point 4
5 5
5
4
4
4
4
a. Take one of the head side pieces and align it over one half of the chin (B3), matching up point 4.
together.
c. Sew from point 5 around to point 4 to join the chin to the head side.
sew desu ne?

21. finish the chin

a. Repeat step 20 on the other
side of the chin (B3), sewing 5 view
repeat from
from point 5 to point 4. The on both
first photo shows how this chin
sides side:
looks with the head fabric on
top.
b. The second photo shows 4 4
how it looks with the chin
fabric on top.
Ą That completes the
head! Set it aside for a
moment while we work
on the body, starting
next.
Part 2: the body

all versions: continue below with step 22.
Keep an eye out for when the instructions split apart again at step 29.
22. sew the inner legs

line up curves line up points repeat on
of inner legs 7-8 & 9-10 both sides
8 9
7 10
a. Grab your belly (A4/B4/C4) and inner leg (A5-6/B5-6/C5-6) pieces. The tight curved edges of the
belly will be sewn to the curves of the inner legs.
These areas are labeled on the paper pattern as the inner leg seam, and they’re also labeled with
numbered points to ensure the toes point in the right direction. Line up points 7-8 and 9-10.
b. Sew the inner legs to the belly along the curve. Line up points 7-8 for the front leg and 9-10 for
the back leg.
c. Repeat step 15 with your remaining inner leg pieces on the other side of the belly. When complete
you should have 4 inner legs attached.
sew desu ne?

23. assess the belly and body

a. Grab both your sewn belly (A4/
B4/C4) and body (A7/B7/C7) pieces steps
so far. The goal is for the belly and 24-28: sew 6
inner legs to join around the edge of belly to body
11
the body. Each inner leg should fit
around the matching leg on the body.
The paper pattern is marked with
numbers to help point what goes
where.
8 9 10
If you’re an experienced sewer, you 7
could sew this entire edge as one
whole seam. But for ease, I’ve broken
8 9
it down into several steps, starting 7 10
below. 6
11
Ą This process (steps 24-28)

ensures that the legs get lined
up precisely first and the body
and belly pieces don’t shift too
far out of alignment while you’re
sewing.
24. sew the legs

line up
front legs
7 8 10
7 8 9
leave open for sew front

foot bottom & back legs
a. First, line up the front inner leg (A5/B5/C5) of the belly with the one on the body (between
points 7 and 8). With these edges pinned, points 7 and 8 should match up.
b. Sew the legs together by starting at point 7 and going down to the bottom corner. Then repeat for
point 8. This will leave an opening along the straight edge for the foot bottom (A8/B8/C8) later.
c. Repeat the same process with the back leg on the same side. This should line up points 9 and 10.
Sew the legs by starting at point 9 and going down to the bottom corner, then repeat again for point
10. Leave an opening along the straight edge for the foot bottom later.
sew desu ne?

25. sew between the legs

a. After sewing the legs, this
leaves a space between the
legs, from point 8 to 9. Pin
these edges together.
b. Sew between points 8 and 8 9
9. Be sure you start and end
your stitching where the
previous seams left off so
there are no gaps. focus sew from
between legs points 8 to 9
26. sew the chest/neck

a. Grab the neck end of the
line 6
belly piece (A4/B4/C4); this sew from
6
up
will become the chest/neck point 6
6
point 6 to 7
area of your plush. Align
the raw edge to the body
matching up point 6 for both
pieces.
b. Sew the belly to the body
from points 6 to 7. Be sure 7
your seam joins up with the
one from step 24 so there
are no gaps.
sew desu ne?

27. sew the tail

a. Grab the tail end of the
belly piece (A4/B4/C4); 11
sew from
this will become the tail tip 11 point 10 to 11
11
of your plush. Align the raw
edge to the body matching
up point 11 for both pieces.
b. Sew the belly to the body 10
from points 10 to 11. For best
results, don’t sew any further line up
10
than point 11. Be sure your tail edges

seam joins up with the one
from step 24 so there are no
gaps.
28. sew the other side

a. Repeat steps 24-27 for the brontosaurus:
other side of the belly and 6
the remaining body piece. repeat
steps 24-27
Line up the edges as before.
11
b. When sewing the tail seam,
be sure to stop exactly at
point 11 and sew no further.
This will make sewing the 8 9
10
7
back edge easier and a
cleaner finish when the
plush is turned. a b
The shape of your dinosaur’s triceratops: stegosaurus:
body may vary slightly,
but the major points are
still the same. The lower 11
photos show how the other 11
variations look.
6 6
7 8 9 10 8 9 10
7
b b
sew desu ne?

for a brontosaurus: continue below with step 29.

for a stegosaurus: skip ahead to step 33.
for a triceratops: skip ahead to step 38.
for the brontosaurus:

29. sew the body spikes
trace seam line
from paper pattern
leave open
for turning
Ą If your dinosaur doesn’t have body spikes, skip ahead to step 32.
a. If you’re adding body spikes to your brontosaurus, grab the pieces now (A11). Align them with
right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. The seam line of the piece can get a little detailed, so it helps to use the seam line from the paper
template as a guide. Trim away the seam allowance and use the paper to trace onto the wrong side
of the fabrics.
c. Sew along the traced line to sew the spikes and leave the long, slightly curved edge free for turning
the piece later.
30. turn the back spikes

a. Trim the excess seam
allowance at the tight trim seam turn right
corners of the spikes. This allowance at side out
will help them turn easier. corners
b. Turn the spikes right side
out through the opening
and define the points with a
chopstick or similar turning
tool.
sew desu ne?

31. baste the back spikes

align spikes flip spikes inward
along back of body baste spikes
& align along edge to body back
a. Grab your body piece from before. Open up the back edge of the body so you can focus on just one
side.
If you haven’t already, note the spike placement lines found on the paper pattern. Align the open
edge of the spikes within these lines so the tips of the spikes point toward the tail of the body.
b. Flip the body spikes inward so the raw edges of both the spikes and the back of the body match up.
c. Baste the spikes to the body within the seam allowance to hold them securely for later.
32. sew the back

a. Grab both sides of the back line up
edge of the body (A7). Align sew from neck
back edges down to tail tip
the back edges together.
Start at the opening for the
neck and sew to the tip of 11
the tail at point 11. If your

brontosaurus has body
spikes, they should be
sandwiched inside.
b. Sew the back of the body
together, starting at the top
of the neck and going down
to point 11 at the tip of the
tail.
Ą Skip ahead to step
44 for finishing the
brontosaurus body.
sew desu ne?


33. sew the back plates
layer
plate
over quilt
batting
leave
align right open for
sides together turning
a. Grab all of your back plate pieces (C12, C13, & C14). Take one of your quilt batting pieces and layer
one of the plate pieces on it with right sides facing up.
b. Grab a matching plate piece and layer it on top with the right side facing down. The main fabric
should now be right sides together.
c. Sew along the curved edge of the back plate and leave the straight edge free for turning the piece.
34. finish the back plates

a. Repeat step 33 with all of
your remaining back plate small
pieces. You should have x4
2 large plates (C14), 4
medium plates (C13), and 4 medium
small plates (C12). x4
b. Turn all of the plates right
side out through the
large
openings in the bottom. x2
10 plates total
sew desu ne?

35. baste the back plates

a. Grab your body piece from line up plates
before (C7). Open up the open up with back edge
back edges so you can focus back edges
on one side.
b. If you haven’t already, locate
the plate placement lines
found on the paper pattern
for the body. Transfer them
over to the right side of the
fabric.
Align the plates within these
a b
placement lines, sorting by
size. The largest is in the flip inward
middle and they get smaller and baste
on the way out.
c. Flip the plates inward and
baste them to the body
within the seam allowance.
d. Repeat on the other side
of the body with your repeat on
both sides
remaining plate pieces. c d
36. sew the center back

12 line up line up points sew from points 12-13
13
center 12 and 13
12
back with
12
body 12 13
12
13 13
13
13
12
a. Grab your center back piece (C11). This piece is going to get sewn between the back edges. It has
alignment points 12 and 13 to help along the way.
b. Begin by layering one of the long edges of the center back over the plates (C12-14). Line up points
12 and 13. The plates will be sandwiched inside.
c. Sew the center back to the body piece from points 12 to 13. This should secure the plates in
between the main fabrics. Be sure to sew slowly and carefully if your fabric is bulky here.
sew desu ne?

37. finish the center back

a. If you open up the pieces open up
line up
from step 36, the plates center back
back edges
should be securely sewn in
the seam.
b. Grab the other half of your
dinosaur’s body (C7). Align
this half with the other side
of the center back (C11).
Once again, match up points
12 and 13. The other set of
plates should be sandwiched a b
inside.
c. Sew the back edges together. sew from view
Start at point 12 at the neck, neck to tail tip from top:
point 13 at the corner of the
center back, and lastly point
11 at the tail tip. 12 13 11
12 11
d. When viewed from above, it 13
should look something like 12
photo D.
Ą Skip ahead to step 44 to
finish the stegosaurus
body. c d

38. sew the back
a. Grab both sides of the back edge of the body (B7). Align the leave open
back edges together. Start at the opening for the neck and work for turning
towards the tip of the tail at point 11.
Sew the back of the body together, from the neck down to point 11
11 at the tip of the tail. Leave an opening for turning as indicated
on the paper pattern for turning the plush later.
sew desu ne?

39. sew the neck frill

align fabric over layer right
quilt batting sides facing
leave open
for turning
a. Grab all of your neck frill pieces (B10). Take your quilt batting piece first and lay it on your work
surface. Next, grab one of your main fabric pieces and layer it on top with the right side of the fabric
facing up.
b. Grab your second frill piece and layer it over that with the right side facing down. Your main fabrics
should be right sides together now.
c. Sew the frill pieces together along the scalloped edge. Leave the inner curve in the center free for
turning the piece later.
40. top stitch the neck frill

a. Clip the seam allowance of trim seam
your neck frill at the inner allowance at corners
corners to increase flexibility
when the piece is turned.
b. Turn the frill right side out
through the opening.
c. For some extra detail, the turn right
frill piece has top stitching side out
lines. Transfer them over a b
by cutting along the paper
pattern and using it as a
tracing guide.
d. Stitch along the traced
lines to complete the top
stitching.
trace top stitch along

stitching lines
c d traced lines
sew desu ne?

41. baste the neck frill

a. Grab your triceratops turn right
body so far. Turn it right side side out
out temporarily, just so it’s
easier to access the neck. flip
with back
b. Flip it on its belly with the facing up
back side facing up.
c. Align the neck frill (B10)
over the back edge of the
neck. The body (B7) and frill
both have alignment points
to help out. Line up point 12 a b
at the center and point 13 on
each side. line up points baste frill
12 and 13 to neck
d. Baste the neck frill to the
body along points 12 and 13.
12
13 12
13 12
13
13
13
13
c d
42. align the head

a. Grab your head from before line up points
and make sure it’s turned insert head 6 and 12
into body
right side out. Take your
body and turn it wrong side
out. Insert the head into the
body so the right sides are 12
facing. We’ll be matching up

the neck edges next. 6 6
b. Line up the neck edges

around the circle opening.
Point 6 should line up with
the chin (B3) and belly (B4).
The forehead (B2) should
line up with the center back
seam at point 12.
sew desu ne?

43. sew the neck

a. It can be very easy for the
head to get twisted or tilted hand
accidentally with this neck baste head
sew
seam. So if you can, try to to body
12 head to
hand baste the head to the body
body along the neck. Be very
sure that point 6 matches up
6
as well as point 12 as you go. 6
b. Finally, sew the head to the

body all around the neck
edge.
44. sew the foot bottoms
4 feet
total
line up
notches with sew around
seams foot bottom
a. Grab your foot bottom pieces (A8/B8/C8). This oval will be sewn around the opening of the
leg next. For help with alignment, each foot bottom has a notch along the top and bottom. These
notches should align with the seams on each leg.
Pin the leg to the foot bottom all the way around.
b. Sew the leg to the foot bottom, matching up the notches to the seams.
c. When complete, you should have 4 legs with foot bottoms.
sew desu ne?

45. trim and turn the body

trim seam the
allowance at finished
tail corner body!
clip seam
allowance around legs
a. Your body is nearly complete! Before turning it right side out, trim the seam allowance at the tip of
the tail to reduce bulk.
b. Next, clip the seam allowances at the inner corners next to the legs. Get the spot between the leg
and the tail as well as the leg and the chest.
c. Turn the body right side out when complete. Check for any gaps at the corners so you can fix them
before stuffing.
46. create the poly pellet pouch

leave fill until hand sew
open for almost full closed
filling
a. Grab your poly pellet pouch (A9/B9/C9) pieces. If you haven’t already, transfer the opening for
filling markings found on the paper pattern for the pellet pouch.
Take your two pellet pouch pieces and align them together (either way facing; doesn’t matter). Sew
around the perimeter of the oval, leaving an opening as indicated by the markings.
b. Fill the pouch with poly pellets until it’s almost full. I like to use a spoon for this, but some people
prefer a funnel.
c. Once you’ve finished, thread a hand sewing needle and stitch the opening closed with a whip stitch
or back stitch. You can also sew it by machine, but go very slowly or just use the hand wheel. Sewing
over a pellet will very likely break a needle.
sew desu ne?

47. stuff the pouch

stuff
tail first insert
pouch
rest
pouch
between
back legs
a. Grab your dinosaur’s body and begin stuffing it. Start by stuffing a little bit into the tip of the tail to
be sure it doesn’t deflate later. Then fill up the rest of the tail.
b. Next, add your poly pellet pouch into the body through the opening in the neck.
Or, for a triceratops, the back seam opening.
c. Rest the pellet pouch between the back legs to help with weight distribution.
48. stuff the body

fill up
rest of
body
stuff legs stuff

very firmly head firmly
a. Next, fill up the legs with stuffing. Be sure to get plenty of stuffing here since the legs will be
supporting the weight of your dinosaur. Ensure that the legs are very firm and there are no wrinkles
in the fabric.
b. Lastly, stuff the rest of the plush body.
c. If your dinosaur has a separate head, like the brontosaurus or stegosaurus, stuff it as well.
sew desu ne?

for a triceratops: continue below with step 49.

for a brontosaurus or stegosaurus: skip down to step 50.

49. sew the body closed
a. Once the whole body is ladder stitch
stuffed, tuck in the seam back opening
allowances in the opening closed
of the body. Thread a hand 2 1
sewing needle and knot the
end, then ladder stitch it
closed.
Take a 1/8” stitch into the 4 3
fold of one side of the seam allowance
(folded inside)
opening, then go across and

take another. Keep going
down the opening until you
reach the end.
Ą Skip ahead to step 55 to
complete the horns.
for the brontosaurus or stegosaurus:

50. align the head
a. When everything is stuffed, brontosaurus: stegosaurus:
align the head onto the body
of your dinosaur so the neck align head onto
align head neck opening
openings match up. Ensure
that it’s facing forward the onto neck
opening
same as the body.
sew desu ne?

51. attach the head

a. Begin attaching the head
to the body using a ladder take big sew
stitch. Thread a hand sewing stitches to hold around neck
needle and knot the end. head in place once more
Take a big stitch into the
center back seam on the
head, then take another into
the center back of the body.
Use the regular ¼” seam
allowance.
Continue working around
the head taking big stitches
to hold the head in place.
b. Before you come all the way around the neck, check that you like the placement of the head and it’s
not twisted or tilted. Then you can stuff some extra stuffing into the neck to ensure the head doesn’t
wobble.
Once the head is positioned exactly how you like, you can sew around the neck again with tinier,
neater stitches to hold it securely.
Ą If you have a brontosaurus, your plush is done! Congratulations! Continue below if you have
a stegosaurus.

52. sew the tail spikes
trim
fold spike seam
in half allowance
at corner
leave
open for
turning
a. Grab your tail spike pieces (C15). Take one and fold it in half lengthwise so it makes an even
skinnier triangle. Right sides should be facing and the straight edges should match up.
b. Sew the triangle along the one straight side. Leave the curved edge along the bottom free for turning
the piece later.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the tip of the triangle to reduce bulk when the piece is turned
later.
sew desu ne?

53. stuff the tail spikes

stuff sew around
lightly opening of
4 spike
spikes
total
a. Repeat step 52 with your remaining tail spike pieces

so you have 4 total. Turn them all right side out. gathering stitch:
b. Stuff the spikes lightly with stuffing so they take
shape. Be sure to get plenty in the tip so it doesn’t A long version of the running stitch,
which is a stitch done by weaving the
deflate later. needle in and out of a length of fabric
c. Thread a hand sewing needle and sew a gathering going along a line. The long stitches
stitch around the outer edge of the spike. (about ¼”-½” long) gather the fabric when
pulled later.
54. attach the tail spikes

pull at thread align ladder
to cinch closed spike stitch around
onto tail base
a. Pull at the gathering thread to cinch the spike closed. Sew a few knots into the center to secure it
closed.
b. Take your cinched spike and place it on the end of your stegosaurus’ tail. For accuracy, you should
have 2 on each side of the tail tip as shown.
c. Ladder stitch the spike to the tail around the edge of the spike.
Ą Congratulations! That completes the stegosaurus!
sew desu ne?


55. sew the horns
trim
seam
leave allowance
open for at corner
turning
a. Grab your horn pieces (B11 and B12). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and
raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the horn around the pointed edge. Leave the slightly curved edge free for turning the piece
right side out later.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the tip of the horn to reduce bulk. Repeat this with your
remaining large and small horn pieces.
56. attach the horns

ladder stitch large
horns above eyes ladder
stitch small
horn at
nose
2 large horns;
1 small horn
a. Turn your horns right side out through the opening in the bottom. When complete you should
have 2 large horns and 1 small horn.
b. Refer back to steps 53 and 54 for the tail spikes to both stuff and sew the horns closed.
Then take your cinched horn and place it on your triceratops. You’ll want the two large horns
centered on the forehead seam above the eyes. Have the tips point toward the nose.
Ladder stitch the horn to the head around the base of the horn.
c. Then for the small horn, place it on the nose. Center it on the narrow tip of the forehead between
the two nostrils. Ladder stitch it to the head around the base.
sew desu ne?

pg. 1/14
6 6
BRONTOSAURUS
6
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pg. 10/14
6 6 TEST SQUARE
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POLY PELLET POUCH Cut 2 of main fabric
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STEGOSAURUS
applique
WWW.CHOLYKNIGHT.COM
placement
PAT T ER N
herbivore dinosaur
2
3
NAP
STRETCH
opening for filling
5
4
F1 F2
11
herbivore dinosaur
WWW.CHOLYKNIGHT.COM
12
PATTERN
CENTER BACK
STEGOSAURUS
STRETCH
C11
13
NAP
12
pg. 13/14
STEG 9 10
FOR OSAURUS
EHEA 1
Cut
1
C 2 D
¼” s of mai
eam n
allowfabric
ance
C6 Cut 2 of main
STEGOSAURUS fabric
applique INNER BACK LEG ¼” seam
STR placement allowance
ETC
H
NAP
7 8
2
2
C5 Cut 2 of main
3 STEGOSAURUS fabric
applique
placement
allowance
NAP
STRET
CH
STEGO STEGOSAURUS
HEAD SAURUS MEDIUM PLATE
BACK
Cut 2 C 1 0 C13
o Cut 8 of accent fabric
¼” se f main fabr
am all Cut 4 of batting
owanc ic ¼” seam allowance
e
NAP
4
pg. 14/14
STEGOSAURUS
applique templates
EYES
applique
trace/cut 1 each
of black
EYE SHINES
applique
trace/cut 2 each
of white
BLUSH
applique
EYE HIGHLIGHTS trace/cut 2 of
applique pink
trace/cut 1 each of
accent color
NOSTRIL
applique
trace/cut 2 of
SPOTS black
applique
trace/cut 2 each
of accent color TOE NAILS
applique
trace/cut 12 of
accent color

Patrón para Hacer Dinosaurios de Peluche.

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Patrón para Hacer Dinosaurios de Peluche.

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cholyknight.

difficulty: skills needed:

sew desu ne?

fabric & notions

brontosaurus: triceratops: stegosaurus:

other materials for all styles:

sew desu ne?

minky vs. felt

fusible web: poly pellets: quilt batting:

sew desu ne?

good better best

Takes a bit longer

↓ consider buying all 3 as funds allow ↓

craft fabric embroidery

↓ consider buying all 3 as funds allow ↓

all-purpose heavy duty thread

↓ consider buying all 3 as funds allow ↓

Pins with a metal

sew desu ne?

good better best

sharps universal fabric

chopstick point hemostats

Narrow and turner A medical tool

precise, but just Specifically that’s narrow and

↓ consider buying all 3 as funds allow ↓

tape measure ruler/yard quilting

pencils chalk fabric

Usually washes out or Great on dark marker

↓ consider buying all 3 as funds allow ↓

glue stick hot glue fabric glue

Seam ripper iron/ironing board

sew desu ne?

assembling the pattern

sew desu ne?

cutting the fabric

cutting layout: brontosaurus (a pieces)

2/3 yd.; 24” long

sew desu ne?

cutting layout example: triceratops (b pieces)

½ yd.; 18” long

1/3 yd.; 12” long

cutting layout example: stegosaurus (c pieces)

½ yd.; 18” long

C12 C12 C12 C12

C13 C13 C13 C13 5” wide

22” wide 11” wide scrap fabric

C15 C15 C15 C15

14” wide 6” wide

sew desu ne?

before you begin:

sewing the plush

1. prep the face applique

sew desu ne?

2. fuse the face applique

3. fuse the body spots

sew desu ne?

3a. other applique options

Part 1: the head

4. sew the head front

sew desu ne?

5. align the forehead

6. clip the head corners