Textile Research Journal Article

Effects of Blending Parameters on the Cross-section Fiber

Migration of Silk/Cotton Blends
Rungsima Chollakup
Abstract Six types of 30 tex silk and cotton LPMT-ENSITM, Université de Haute-Alsace, 11 rue
blended yarns at 50/50 blending ratio were spun in Alfred Werner, 68093 Mulhouse Cedex, France / KAPI,
the cotton spinning system in order to study the Kasetsart University, Bangkok 10900, Thailand
effects of blending factors on the fiber distribution
in the yarn cross-section. The blending factors Jean-François Osselin, Artan Sinoimeri1 and
studied here were the blending methods, intimate
Jean-Yves Drean
and drawframe blending, and the silk waste types,
LPMT-ENSITM, Université de Haute-Alsace, 11 rue
inferior knubbs, filature gum waste and pierced
Alfred Werner, 68093 Mulhouse Cedex, France
cocoon. A new method of zoning the yarn cross-
section has been proposed in order to analyze the
fiber migration. Three migration parameters, the
Index of Blend Irregularity, the Migration Inten-
sity and the Migration Index were studied in the
present work. The intimate blending gave a more
homogeneous fiber distribution, with no radial
migration tendency. The coarser silk fibers and
more irregular in length provided blends that pre-
sented non-random heterogeneity. Generally, the
silk fibers slightly tended to migrate toward the
yarn core.

Key words blending, migration

In blending fibers, the arrangement of fibers in the yarn
cross-section is recognized to be an important parameter
affecting the yarn and fabric characteristics. Generally, it is
accepted that a preferential distribution of blend compo-
nents is a direct result of fiber migrations at certain stages
during the yarn manufacturing. It has been clearly noticed
that the properties of the blended yarn and/or fabric can-
not be explained simply in terms of the properties of vari-
ous components; the arrangement of fibers must also be
taken into account. Yarn strength, abrasion resistance and
appearance of blended yarn do not depend only on the
proportion of various fibers, but also on their position in
the yarn. Also, the fabric properties such as color, handle,
drape, as well as the strength, are also strongly influenced
by the fiber arrangement in the blend [1]. The factors
which influence the position of fiber in the yarn depend on
the various blending and spinning processes, fiber proper-
ties, blend proportions, yarn count, twist, etc.
As shown in a previous paper [2], the different blending
processes – in the blow room (before carding), or in the
drawing frame – affect the migratory behavior of the fibers.
Regarding fiber properties, the differences among compo-
nent length, fineness, shape of cross-section, coefficient of
fiber friction and fiber chemical type, have important
effects on fiber migration, as considered by several workers
[3–13]. These influences are summarized in Table 1.1
A blended yarn with very unbalanced proportions of
component at 90/10 is more irregular than that of 50/50
[15]. In addition, some studies on the proportions and their
effects on fiber migration have been carried out [16, 17].
Other works [18, 19] showed that the physical properties
1
Corresponding author: LPMT-ENSITM, Université de Haute-
Alsace, 11 rue Alfred Werner, 68093 Mulhouse Cedex, France. e-
mail: artan.sinoimeri@uha.fr

Textile Research Journal Vol 78(4): 361–369 DOI: 10.1177/0040517508089758 www.trj.sagepub.com © 2008 SAGE Publications
Figures 1, 2, 4–6 appear in color online: http://trj.sagepub.com Los Angeles, London, New Delhi and Singapore
TRJ 362 Textile Research Journal 78(4)

Table 1 The effects of fiber properties on the yarn cross-
section fiber distribution.
Fiber properties
Length*
Fineness
Shape of cross-section
Coefficient of fiber friction
Higher mechanical
properties and modulus
Extensibility
*For the ring spinning. These results were inversed for the
open-end spinning [13, 14].
mixing during carding which gave a homogeneous blend-
ing. The drawframe blending was carried out in the draw-
ing frame. This method consisted of blending pure
Fiber distribution in yarn component slivers in the drawframe input. Further dou-
cross-section bling and drafting of the blended slivers improved the
Core External layer blending homogeneity. Regarding silk waste types, the first
one studied here was the SK, which was the outer portion
long short
of the cocoon layer. It was obtained in the first process of
fine coarse reeling cocoons. The second one, the SW, represented the
circular and trilobal and middle layer composed of all broken silk filaments which
smooth rough had been discarded during reeling or at the inspection of
the skeins, but not yet undergone any further processing.
more less
The last one, the SC, represented the cocoons which had
more less been cut to allow the moths to emerge in order to produce
eggs required for the next crops. It comprised all the mixed
more less layers of the cocoon. Six types of 50/50 silk/cotton blended
yarns following these different blending parameters were
considered in order to investigate their influences on the
yarn cross-section migration.

and the evenness of the blended yarns depend on the com-

ponent proportions.
Lund [15] concluded that in the case of blended yarn
with the same components at the same proportions, the
finer yarns are more irregular than the coarser yarns. The
type of blending process can also modify the effect of the
yarn count. Mortan [10] found that for the coarser yarns,
the migration tendencies of different fibers decrease
because of the fibers’ difficulties to migrate. Also, finer
yarn counts may show more strength improvement for sta-
ple blends because of the greater contribution of the fiber
length [20].
The blending parameters taken into account in this
present work were the blending methods, intimate (Int)
and drawframe (Dr) blending, and the silk waste types,
inferior knubbs (SK), filature gum waste (SW) and pierced
cocoon (SC). The intimate blending was carried out in the
blow room i.e. before carding. This method ensured both
fiber package mixing in the blow room and individual fiber
Experimental
Fiber Preparation and Blending Process
Three types of Thai silk wastes (Chul no. 4, Bombyx mori)
were used to carry out blends with cotton fibers (DORA
11, Gossypium hirsutum L.). After the silk fiber prepara-
tion [21], the different silk wastes were characterized fol-
lowing the reference methods of the International Wool
Textile Organization (IWTO). The cotton fiber character-
istics were measured by the same methods, except for the
fineness which was determined by the fineness maturity
tester (FMT) (Table 2).
The quantity of raw material at our disposal was small,
approximately 2 kg per silk waste type. Half of each was
first opened and mixed manually with the same quantity of
cotton fibers, then introduced into the card feeding system
in order to obtain the intimate blending. Due to the small

Table 2 Characteristics of silk and cotton fibers.

Types of silk wastes
Method
Properties Inferior knubbs Filature gum Pierced cocoon Cotton fibers
(Equipment)
SK waste SW SC
Length (mm) IWTO-17
Mean length, ML Peyer’s 21.1 ± 0.6 19.4 ± 1.6 24.8 ± 1.2 21.0 ± 0.9
Upper half meanlength, UHML Almeter 37.0 ± 1.6 36.2 ± 2.8 46.0 ± 1.2 27.8 ± 0.7
Fineness (mtex) IWTO-8 139 ± 3 168 ± 5 160 ± 7 175 ± 6
Projectina
microscope
FMT
Density (g/m3) 1.35 ± 0.05 1.34 ± 0.03 1.36 ± 0.05 1.52 ± 0.02
 Effects of Blending Parameters on the Cross-section Fiber Migration R. Chollakup et al.
Figure 1 Image pre-processing for the yarn cross-section and fiber counting.
quantities used and the manual operating mode, the 50/50
component ratio was difficult to control. Equally, the dif-
ferent pure component card slivers, produced in order to
carry out the drawframe blending, did not have the same
count, in particular the cotton card sliver was more impor-
tant. For this reason, during the mixing of the same number
of silk and cotton card slivers in the first draw frame, in this
case also, the 50/50 ratio was maintained approximately.
After being blended by these two techniques and passed
through the drawing and roving frames, the fibrous material
was finally spun into a 30 tex yarn in a laboratory ring spin-
ning machine with a twist of 625 t/m.
Fiber Cross-section Analysis
Preparation and Yarn Cross-section Examination
The six blended yarns were dyed in a small red acid dye
(Lanaperl G200-PW) and a large blue direct dye (Bleu Sol-
ophenyle BFF) which preferentially color silk and cotton.
The dyed yarn with some four to five supporting rayon
rovings was pulled through a 1.25 mm diameter hole on a
0.25 mm thick stainless steel plate. The tuft containing the
specimen was then cut flush with the surface of the plate
with a razor blade. The yarn samples were taken out from
four crops chosen randomly within eight that had been spun
for each blending case. The successive cuts were spaced out
at 1 m or more. At least 30 good cross-sections for each sam-
ple were captured by a charge couple device (CCD) camera
mounted on an optic microscope (Leitz Laborlux 12
MEST), with an objective lens of 20-magnification. The
363 TRJ
images were digitized through a camera adaptor CMA-D2
connecting with a computer and stored in a 768 × 576 pix-
els image size using NIH Image 1.61 at a resolution of 270
pixel/inch or more. The image data were stored in captured
color (RGB 0-255 intensity levels).
Zoning of Yarn Sections and Fiber Counting with
Image Processing Treatment
In order to improve the image quality, the yarn cross-sec-
tions were first treated by some filtering functions in an
image preprocessing software, the Jasc Paint Shop, as fol-
lows: noise removal with edge preserving smooth, blurs, find
edges, enhance photo, noise removal with texture preserving
smooth, sharpen and adjust brightness/contrast, including
cleaning the outer zone with white area. Two different types
of fiber cross-section forms were clearly distinguishable, tri-
angular one for silk fiber and kidney bean one with a channel
in the middle for cotton fiber. All the silk and cotton fibers
were marked with a round or square point, respectively.
The fibers of each component were then counted by soft-
ware for the whole cross-section (Figure 1).
Concerning the yarn cross-section zoning in order to dis-
tinguish the core and the external layer, there are many
methods in the literature [7, 22, 23]. One method recom-
mends the cross-section to be divided into concentric circles
of equal area or of equal radius increments. The greater cir-
cle must be the smaller one that circumscribes the whole
section (see Figure 2(i)). A second method (Figure 2(ii))
suggests using the dimensions of the smaller rectangular
shape that circumscribes the whole section in order to cal-
TRJ 364 Textile Research Journal 78(4)

Figure 2 Comparison of different yarn cross-section zonings with a yarn core of 60 % of the total yarn area. (i) Concentric
annuli of equal area; (ii) rectangular a x b shape; and (iii) concentric periphery by eroding method.

culate the radius of the yarn core. This trick tends to reduce
the effects of some deformations in the cross-section occur-
ring during the cutting operation. The yarn core diameter,
considered about 70 % of the yarn radius, is calculated as
2R = 0.7(a+b)/2 (Figure 2(ii)). Considering these meth-
ods, some differences in the fiber positioning inward or out-
ward the yarn core can be observed. Let us see two fibers,
noted E and C in Figure 2, which mean external and core,
respectively. Following the first method, these two fibers
are counted as belonging to the core, whereas following the
second method, the position of the same fibers is inversed
belonging to the external layer. In order to respect the
actual fiber position relative to the whole cross-section,
another zoning method was used in the present work. After
the cross-section image preprocessing, a black masque, iden-
tical to the whole cross-section was eroded, from the periph-
ery to the inner side by means of a quasi-circular single
element of 5 pixels [24]. This operation was performed until
the desired quantitative reduction of the initial masque was
obtained (see also Figure 3). Then, the marks representing
the different components, circular for the silk and square
for the cotton, which were outside the reduced masque, were
counted as belonging to the external layer. This method
provided more accurate results than what was used previ-

Figure 3 Procedure for counting the number of silk and cotton fibers for each concentric zone.
 Effects of Blending Parameters on the Cross-section Fiber Migration R. Chollakup et al.
ously. Nevertheless, for the three methods described here,
the assumption that the relative fiber position was not mod-
ified by the cut operation was required and generally tacitly
accepted.
Actual zoning was, therefore, carried out as indicated in
Figure 2(iii) with the six types of blended yarns. The yarn
cross-sections were divided into five zones of 20 % of the
whole yarn cross-section area (Figure 3). The number of
fibers of each component in each zone was counted and
tabulated.
Concept of Migration Parameters
In order to determine fiber migration within the yarn
cross-section, three migration parameters were studied in
the present work. The first one, the Index of Blend Irregu-
larity (IBI) [16] represents a normalized standard deviation
which measures the degree of the longitudinal blend homo-
geneity. IBI = 0 means perfection blending and 1 means
random blending. A value greater than 1 suggests a non-
random inhomogeneity in blending. The Index of Blend
Irregularity is calculated following the equation:
2 FM a – FMu
1 ( pT i – W i )
IBI = ---
n ∑ ---------------------------
T i pq
- FM u – FMi
where Ti is the total number of fibers in a given cross-sec-
tion i, Wi is the total number of fibers of the component w
in that particular section i, p is the average fraction of the
component w for all the sections, pi = Ti/Wi, q equals 1-p
and n is the number of yarn cross-sections examined.
This formula can also be applied separately for each
layer of the yarn. Note that for this parameter, it is not nec-
essary to know or to calculate the mass content for different
components. In the present paper, the IBI values were cal-
culated via the number content (pi in the previous formula).
The second parameter, the Migration Intensity (called
Migration Indices) was calculated following the method of
Townend and Dewhirst [13] with the difference that in the
present paper, the core percentage was varied from 20 % to
80 % of the total area. A value of M = 0 means equal fre-
quency of component in the core and in the external layer,
implying no preferential radial migration of fibers. On the
other hand, M = +1 indicates maximum migration of one
component to the yarn core and M = –1 means the con-
trary. The Migration Intensity of silk (MS) is calculated as:
( Si – Se )
M S = --------------------------------
-
( Si Ce + Se Ci )
where Si, Se, Ci and Ce are the mean mass proportions of
silk (S) and cotton (C) fibers in the inner (core) and exter-
nal zones. To transform the number content of each cross-
section in mass content, the following formula is used:
365 TRJ
s
t s ⋅ n i, j
S i, j = ------------------------------------
s c
-
t s ⋅ n i, j + t c ⋅ n i, j
where ts and tc are the linear densities of silk and cotton
fibers, respectively, ni,j superscripted s or c is the number
content of silk and cotton, respectively, on the inner (i)
s
s N i, j
zone of a cross-section j, and n i, j = -----------------------
s c
where Ni,j is
N i, j + N i, j
the number of silk or cotton fibers on the inner (i) zone of
that cross-section j.
The third parameter, the Migration Index (MI) can be
used for more than two components [7]. It is based on cer-
tain first order moments of a component, relative to the
center of the yarn cross-section, and relates the actual
moment (FMa) to the uniform moment (FMu), as well as to
the maximum inward migration (FMi) and the maximum
outward migration (FMo) corresponding to three hypothet-
ical distributions, the uniform distribution and those that
would result from maximum inward and outward migra-
tion, respectively. The Migration Index is calculated as:
- × 100%
MI = ----------------------------
FM a – FM u
- × 100%
MI = ----------------------------
FM o – FM u
It depends on whether the migration is inward or out-
ward, respectively. The Migration Index of ±100 % implies
the radial complete separation of the components and the
positive or negative value shows inward or outward migra-
tion, repectively. On the other hand, zero Migration Index
represents complete and homogeneous blending. For this
index, the number distribution is converted by the multipli-
cation with the ratio fiber fineness/fiber density.
Results and Discussion
The radial distributions of silk fiber by weight in the yarn
cross-section are shown in Figure 4. One-way ANOVA was
applied for each yarn in order to point out from which layer
the difference in fiber distribution became significant. Only
the distributions for the intimately blended yarn of the infe-
rior knubbs (Int-SK50) were not significantly different
among the layers. This result meant that the silk fibers in this
case were homogeneously distributed in each zone. With the
same silk, but with the drawframe blending (Dr-SK50), the
silk fibers moved towards the yarn core and the fiber distri-
bution differences started from the zone of 61–80 in which
the silk concentration decreased gradually up to the periphery.
With regard to the filature gum waste (SW), whose fibers
TRJ 366 Textile Research Journal 78(4)
were coarser and more variable in length, the fiber distribu-
tions of the two blending types were closer in the 61–100
zone. The fiber distributions of the pierced cocoon (SC) had
the same decreasing tendency for both blending types. For
the drawframe blending of this silk, the layer differences
started at 41 %, whereas for the intimate blending at 61 %.
Furthermore, the total numbers of silk and cotton fibers
were counted for each zone and reported to the total number
of fibers in the yarn cross-section. It followed that for all our
yarns, there was no difference in the fiber compactness in dif-
ferent zones. This result did not agree with previous reports
[2, 22, 25, 26], where it was observed that the distribution of
fiber packing followed a trend of maximum number of fibers
in the center and decreasing to reach the minimum number
at the outside periphery. The zoning and cutting method dif-
ferences may explain this result. Nevertheless, the zoning
and cutting method considered here seemed to be more
Figure 4 Comparison of fiber dis-
tributions of silk (by mass) in the
yarn cross-section.
Figure 5 The Index of Blend Irreg-
ularity (IBI) in each zone.
accurate and without any bias relative to the fiber migra-
tion study.
The results of IBI, the longitudinal homogeneity of
blending, are presented in Figure 5 and Table 3. First, a com-
parison of (IBI2.30) with the χ2 with n = 29 (degree of free-
dom), as suggested by Walker [27], was carried out. These
values were generally inferior to the χ2 value (49.59 in the
statistical table), so these results followed a normal distribu-
tion and were representative. The test of variance homoge-
neity (Hartley test, [9]) was applied on IBI2 values in order to
check out whether the differences between layers were sig-
nificant. It followed that for the blends of the SK and SC, a
non-significant difference in the IBI2 values among zones
was exhibited (at p > 0.05). In particular, the blended yarn
of intimate-inferior knubbs (Int-SK50) had a perfect blend-
ing with a value of IBI = 0, but the one of Int-SC50 had a
random blending (IBI = 1.22). Contrary to the other blend
 Effects of Blending Parameters on the Cross-section Fiber Migration R. Chollakup et al. 367 TRJ

Figure 6 The Migration Intensity of

silk fibers in the yarn cross-section.

Table 3 The IBI values and the variance homogeneity test for the blended yarns.
Zone Total Hartley test1
0–20 21–40 41–60 61–80 81–100 0–100 (p > 0.05)

Int-SK50 0.04 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.02 ns

Dr-SK50 1.19 0.88 0.98 0.83 1.28 0.77 ns
Int-SW50 1.42 0.92 0.83 0.96 1.00 0.95 s
Dr-SW50 1.24 0.94 1.28 1.20 1.60 1.16 s
Int-SC50 1.18 1.03 1.07 1.24 1.22 1.22 ns
Dr-SC50 1.14 0.83 1.28 1.05 0.94 0.90 ns
2
Hartley test ns ns s ns s ns
(p > 0.05)
1
Applied among five zones for the six blend types separately.
2
Applied between two blending techniques only for SW silk and for each layer separately.
The underlined values represent those used by the Hartley test.
ns, non-significant; s, significant.

types, for the SW, the IBI2 values showed that these longitu-
dinal variances were neither homogeneous among layers,
nor between blending type for each layer (see last column
and row in Table 3). Note that for the other silk types, the
comparison between blending types was not meaningful
because of the non-difference among layers. The filature
gum waste fibers were coarser and more irregular in length.
These characteristics may explain the differences in IBI val-
ues among layers and between blending types. Note that for
this silk, the blended yarns were more irregular viz. to the
other silk types [28].
To calculate the Migration Intensity, M, the yarn cross-
sections were separated into two zones. The ratio of the
core/external layer varied as 20/80, 40/60, 60/40 and 80/20.
The changes in M value as a function of these ratios are
shown in Figure 6. Except for the blended yarn of Int-
SK50, where there was no preferential radial migration of
fibers (M = 0), in all the other blending yarns, the silk fib-
ers globally slightly tended to migrate to the yarn core (M
> 0). In addition, this tendency was higher for the draw-
frame blending, with a higher M than those of the intimate
blending (at p < 0.05). For all blended yarns, the M
changes with the core/external layer ratio were in general
not strongly significant, except for the Int-SC yarn. Never-
theless, the ratio 60/40 with the core yarn as 60 % of the
total yarn cross-sectional area seemed to be reasonable in
order to determine further the effect of the blending fac-
tors on the Migration Index.
The Migration Index (MI) was also calculated in order
to compare a direct quantitative radial migration (Table 4).
TRJ 368 Textile Research Journal 78(4)

Table 4 The Migration Index, MI, of silk fibers in the yarn cross-section.
MI % Int-SK50 Dr-SK50 Int-SW50 Dr-SW50 Int-SC50 Dr-SC50
Silk 0.38 7.15 7.94 10.96 9.00 11.49

Table 5 ANOVA with two blending factors on the migration parameters of silk fibers.
Blending type (A) Silk type (B) Interaction
Int Dr SK SW SC AxB

IBI – for the whole cross-section* 0.73b 0.94a 0.40b 1.03a 1.06a s

M – for the yarn core at 60 % 0.09 b

0.15 a
0.06 c
0.12 b
0.19 a ns

MI 5.64 b
9.54 a
3.56 b
8.95 a
10.27 a ns

*Means that square root transformation of the results was carried out in order to stabilize the residual variances. Different letters (a, b, c)
in the same row mean that the values were significantly different at p ≤ 0.05; ns means that there was no significant difference of inter-
action at p > 0.05; s means that there was significant difference of the interaction effect at p ≤ 0.05.

Only the blended yarn of Int-SK50 nearly had the MI value
= 0, meaning that the silk fibers were cross-distributed
here almost with equalized frequency. In the other cases,
the positive values for silk showed that these fibers migrated
slightly to the yarn core, as suggested by the M parameter.
To evaluate the fiber migration parameters according to
the blending factors, the ANOVA with the two blending fac-
tors was applied (Table 5). The drawframe blended yarns, as
compared to the intimate blended ones, were less random
(IBI values for the whole cross-section) and presented more
migration tendency of silk towards the yarn core, as indicated
by M and MI, respectively. The blended yarns of the inferior
knubbs (finer and more regular in length), having a value of
IBI = 0.40, gave more homogeneously and randomly distrib-
uted fibers. Also, they presented a low migration tendency as
compared to the other silk types.
The migration tendencies according to the blending
type (intimate or drawframe) showed similar results to a
previous study by Anandjiwala et al. [2]. Also, the results
presented here confirmed previous results [7] concerning
the effects of the fiber characteristics on the fiber distribu-
tions in the yarn cross-section, as well as on the migration
tendency. The short and coarse fibers, like cotton, tended
to migrate towards the external layer, whereas the long and
fine fibers, like silk, moved towards the yarn core.
Conclusions
The fiber distribution in the yarn cross-section evaluated by
migration parameters is very important viz. to the yarn end
use. The evaluation of the migration parameters needs an
accurate cut and yarn cross-section zoning. A new method
of zoning, which provided more accuracy relative to the
actual fiber position, has been proposed in the present work.
The study of the effects of the blending factors on the fiber
migration parameters carried out with this method suggested
that the blended fibers in the drawframe blending tended to
migrate more towards the yarn core as compared to the inti-
mate blending. The shorter and coarser fibers, like cotton,
tended to migrate towards the external yarn layer, whereas
the longer and finer fibers, like silk, tended to move towards
the yarn core. In addition, the silk fibers which were coarser
and more irregular in length, filature gum waste, as well as
the pierced cocoon, exhibited non-random heterogeneity
blends with cotton, which would give more irregular and
less resistant yarns, than inferior knubbs and cotton which
provide more homogeneous and random blends. This
hypothesis is interesting and requires to be confirmed with
yarn and fabric characterization in a further work.
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