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Tooley Street
Coordinates: 51°30′16.76″N 0°5′0.98″W

Tooley Street is a road in central and south London connecting

London Bridge to St Saviour's Dock; it runs past Tower Bridge on
the Southwark/Bermondsey side of the River Thames, and forms
part of the A200 road. (grid reference TQ3380.)

St Olave
The earliest name for the street recorded in the Rolls is the neutral Former South Eastern Railway
regio vicio i.e. "royal street", meaning a public highway. In the offices at No. 84
"Woodcut" map of c.1561 it is shown as "Barms Street", i.e. street
to Bermondsey; in the Stuart period it was referred to as "Short
Southwark" to differentiate it from "Long Southwark" (the present
Borough High Street).[1]

The later "Tooley" designation is a corruption of the original

Church of St Olave[1] and the transformation can be seen on maps
of the area from those of Georg Braun and Frans Hogenberg, John
Rocque, and later, which name the church "Synt Toulus",
"Toulas", "Toolis", "Toolies". The church takes its name from the
Norwegian King Olaf who was an ally of Æthelred the Unready
and attacked Cnut's forces occupying the London Bridge area in Tooley St can be seen on the left of
1013. The earliest reference to the church is in the Southwark this photo, running parallel to the
entry in Domesday Book of 1086.[2] The church was a little to the river, between it and the railway line
east of London Bridge of the period. The church was demolished
in 1926 for the headquarters of the Hay's Wharf Company, "St Olaf
House", an office block built 1929-31 by Harry Stuart Goodhart-
Rendel (1887–1959) in Art Deco style. This has a legend and
mural depiction of the Saint.

The termination of the street is not actually at the junction with

Borough High Street, as often assumed, for that part of the
highway is actually Duke Street Hill. Tooley Street actually joins
Montague Close under the arch of London Bridge a little to the
north of this.
St Olaf House

Fire
This fire happened at a time when the fire 'brigade', formally known as the London Fire Engine
Establishment, was still run by insurance companies. It began on 22 June 1861 in a warehouse at
Cotton's Wharf in Tooley Street and raged for two days, destroying many nearby buildings. It was two

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weeks before the fire went out completely. The head of the
Establishment, James Braidwood, was killed by a falling wall
while fighting the fire. It was one of the largest fires in London
during the 19th century.[3][1]

Afterwards the insurance companies raised their premiums and

threatened to disband the brigade until finally the government
agreed to take it over. The Metropolitan Fire Brigade Act was
passed in 1865 and led to a publicly funded fire service – the first
The Tooley Street fire of 1861
real London fire brigade.[3]

George Orwell
In the early 1930s George Orwell lived as a tramp to gain a first-hand view of poverty. He befriended a
man called Ginger in the hop-fields of Kent. They came to a "kip" (doss-house) in Tooley Street and
stayed there from 19 September to 8 October 1931.[4] Orwell wrote rough notes in the kip then went
further along Tooley Street to Bermondsey Library where he wrote them up into the book Down and
Out in Paris and London. The library building was demolished in the 1980s and the site is now part of
the open space called Potter's Fields.[5]

Hay's Wharf
The most famous wharf of the south side of the Pool of London was Hay's Wharf, first mentioned in
1651 to the east of St Olave's church. For 300 years it grew, until Tooley Street and the surrounding
industrial development was nicknamed "London's Larder". The warehouses burned down in the 1861
fire (see above). Hay's Wharf was where Ernest Shackleton's ship Quest lay in 1921. This dock was
filled in during extensive rebuilding in the 1980s and is now a shopping mall called Hay's Galleria.
The office block attached to it is called "Shackleton House". Nearby, at No. 27 is the private London
Bridge Hospital in the St Olaf House building.

Old and new horrors

A 1542 map of Southwark shows only three or four features on Tooley Street, although it is not given a
name on this.[6] One of them is a pillory, set up for punishing fraudulent traders. Next to it is a "cage".
This was a place to keep drunken disorderly people who were arrested too late in the day to be
imprisoned. They would sleep in the cage until sober. Until 2013 the site of those medieval
punishments was occupied, quite appropriately, by London Dungeon, a popular tourist attraction. It
opened in 1975 and is similar to the "Chamber of Horrors" in Madame Tussaud's Museum (it is owned
by Merlin Entertainments) and relocated to County Hall in 2013.

In nearby Stainer Street, off Tooley Street running under the mainline station, there is a blue plaque
commemorating the 68 people who were killed in the 1941 bombing raid. Popular legend says that
there was so much rubble that bodies were simply left behind, and re-buried in the masonry under
London Bridge Station. Stainer Street has now been closed permanently as part of the London Bridge
station redevelopment. Another museum and tourist attraction has been created under the Bridge at

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number 2-4 called 'The London Bridge Experience and London

Tombs'; the first part of the display is an exhibition of the history
of the Bridge and the other part is more of a popular
entertainment similar to the 'Dungeon'.

John Keats
Before being permanently closed at its northern end in 2012 to
allow for the redevelopment of London Bridge station, Weston
Street connected with Tooley Street opposite Hay's Galleria. In the
early 19th century, before the station was built, John Keats lived in
Weston Street, at that time called Dean Street, when a medical
student at Guy's Hospital. It was here that he wrote the poem "On
First Looking into Chapman's Homer".

London Bridge City and More London The late 19th-century fire station
along Tooley Street
From 1987 into the early 1990s and again in the period from 1999
to 2009, new developments between the street and the river were
created. In 1987, with the increasing urban regeneration of the
Thames Corridor and nearby London Docklands, the area was
acquired by the St Martins Property Group as part of their London
Bridge City development, stretching from London Bridge easterly
to English Grounds where it is terminated by the Southwark
Crown Court site and this has caused a remarkable recovery in the
area. In the later campaign of urban renewal More London has
been created, bounded by the Hay's Galleria site and Potters
Fields it is a pedestrian area connecting Tooley Street with London
The former South London College in
City Hall. From the Tooley Street end there are a spectacular vistas
Tooley Street
converging on Tower Bridge, The Tower of London and City Hall.
A children's theatre called The Unicorn Theatre, has been built
here. 'The Scoop' is an amphitheatre or stepped area of More London upon which regular events
(plays, music, open air movies) are held throughout the summertime. Besides City Hall, a number of
prominent London companies are also based here including Visit London, Ernst and Young's
European Headquarters, Norton Rose's main building and a Hilton hotel.

HMS Belfast is moored on the river front beside More London and The Queen's Walk provides a
pedestrian route along the Thames on the northern perimeter of London Bridge City and More
London, from Tower Bridge to London Bridge. This is part of the Jubilee Walkway.

From 2012 St George's subsidiary of Berkeley Homes erected a major high value residential
development between Potters Fields and Tower Bridge Road, called One Tower Bridge; apart from
flats there is mixed leisure and retail, public space, a museum - cultural attraction and a boutique
hotel in the old St Olave's Grammar School building.

Public buildings

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The GLA's City Hall was opened here in 2000, although the GLA
relocated to Tower Hamlets in 2021. In 2009 Southwark Council
opened its new civic centre in a modern office block at 160 Tooley
Street, replacing some other facilities within the Borough.[7]

Public houses
At the junction between Tooley Street and Bermondsey Street is a
historic pub called "The Shipwright's Arms", recalling one of the
local industries. It has a large wall of tiles showing ships being
built.

To the east, The Britannia was built in 1881 and used to stand on
the corner of Tooley Street and Shand Street. The building is now City Hall
offices.

During the development of More London another pub, The

Antigallican, was closed down. Its name celebrated a man o' war
wooden battleship named after the ancient enmity that existed
between the English and the French. On the same terrace the St
John's Tavern also closed down. These properties are now part of
Red Bull UK's headquarters.

The King Of Belgium was situated at 186 Tooley Street and is now
The Bridge Lounge and Dining Room. Over the junction with
Tower Bridge Road, The Pommeler's Rest takes its name from the
The Shipwrights Arms at No. 88
area's centuries-old connection with the leather trade and is
located in the former Tower Bridge Hotel. Further east, before
Tooley Street becomes Jamaica Road, is The King's Arms.

Several streets that used to be on maps before 1999 have been swept away — Willson's Wharf,
Unicorn Passage, Morgan's Lane, Stainer Street and Pickle Herring Street. The Bethell Estate that was
built in the early 1930s between Tooley Street and the river was demolished in its entirety for
redevelopment. This area used to house some of the poorest people in London, and fell victim to
cholera in the 1840s.

Another pub called "The Royal Oak" existed on Tooley Street, and was often used as a live recording
venue, once being used by British jazz drummer Phil Seamen for a recording for his album "Now! ...
Live!" (1968).

Theatres
Two recent additions to the street are theatres. The Unicorn Theatre is in a custom-built building, part
of the More London development, that stages shows for young people, whilst the Southwark
Playhouse is in a railway arch behind "The Shipwright's Arms", which relocated to Newington
Causeway in 2013 because of the mainline station redevelopment.

Public art, memorials and statues

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On the corner of Braidwood Street on a building that is part of the London Bridge Hospital is the
memorial to James Braidwood who died in the fire of 1861. In the foyer of the Cottons Centre, an
office block next to the river, is a modern work of art. Likewise, within Hay's Galleria is the sculpture /
fountain 'The Navigators'.

At the fork in the road between Tooley Street and Queen Elizabeth Street and Tower Bridge Road
there are two statues. One is a bust of dockworkers' trade unionist, founder of the Transport &
General Workers Union, Churchill's Minister of Labour during WWII and Attlee's Foreign Secretary
Ernest Bevin.[8] This is somewhat overshadowed by the full size monument to local worthy Samuel
Bourne Bevington, a member of a Bermondsey leather manufacturing dynasty and philanthropist. He
is represented as the first Mayor of the Metropolitan Borough of Bermondsey, which incorporated this
street, and was erected shortly after his death in 1908.[9]

Anecdotal culture
"The Three Tailors of Tooley Street" is a remark made in regard to
any small group pretending to greater representative authority
than they have in reality. It is based on the tale that the
eponymous characters wanted to have some exemption from a
local rate and were informed they would have to petition the Privy
Council; accordingly they drafted their appeal, which began with
the phrase "We, The People of England ...". It is notable that by far
the largest trade occupation in the street on the Bridge House
Rent Roll prepared for the Poll Tax of 1381 was that of the
tailors.[10] The Grade II listed building at 29,
31, and 33 Tooley Street
Tooley Street conservation area
Tooley Street was designated as two Conservation Areas in June 1988 (Tooley Street South) and
February 1991 (Tooley Street South).[11]

There are 17 listed buildings in the conservation area, including: St Olave's Grammar School (exterior
and parts interior Grade II*), St. Olaf House (Grade II*); Hay's Galleria (Grade II), Denmark House
(Grade II), Aston Webb House (Grade II), London Bridge Hospital (Grade II), the Dixon Hotel,
formerly the Tower Bridge Magistrates' Court and Police Station (Grade II exterior) and The
Shipwright's Arms public house (Grade II).

Many other buildings have been renovated or had modern structures placed behind "retained facades"
to maintain and enhance the visual amenity heritage of the area. However, Network Rail made a
successful planning application to demolish the old Railway Bonded Warehouse and offices between
Bermondsey Street and Weston Street to open up the mainline Station arches for new concourses and
passenger circulation areas from Tooley Street into the London Bridge Station complex.

Southwark Council has also identified a number of buildings on Tooley Street that, whilst unlisted,
make a "positive contribution" to the local area, including: The Antigallican public house, Devon
Mansions, and Magdalen House.[11]

London Bridge station

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London Bridge station was originally called Tooley Street and opened 1836. It was redeveloped
between 1972 and 1978 by British Rail and is being redeveloped entirely as part of the Thameslink
Programme. This redevelopment will see the main access move from the west facing London Bridge
Street concourse to a new north facing Tooley Street entrance. This will include new public pedestrian
space adjacent to the More London Estate and lead south through the Victorian railway viaduct to St
Thomas Street via a new concourse, incorporating the whole of Stainer Street and the northern part of
Weston Street. Network Rail completed this work in 2018.

See also
London Bridge station
The London Bridge Experience

References
Citations

1. Weinreb et al. 2008, p. 919.

2. The Ancient Parishes and Manors of Southwark by Tony Sharp 2005 Guildable Manor
3. "The Tooley Street fire" (http://www.london-fire.gov.uk/the-tooley-street-fire.asp). london-
fire.gov.uk. London Fire Brigade. Retrieved 15 July 2017.
4. "19.9.31 to 8.10.31" (https://hoppicking.wordpress.com/2011/10/08/19-9-31-to-8-10-31/).
hoppicking.wordpress.com. Hop-Picking Diary. 8 October 2011. Retrieved 15 July 2017.
5. Southwark Local Studies Library Tooley Street exhibition file.
6. 'Plan view of Southwark' ca 1542, Duchy of Lancaster
7. "Southwark Council begins move to Tooley Street offices" (https://www.london-se1.co.uk/news/vie
w/3769). London SE1. 2 March 2009. Retrieved 11 May 2020.
8. Public Monument and Sculpture Association National Recording Project - London (http://pmsa.cc
h.kcl.ac.uk/CL/Region.htm) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20071024121708/http://pmsa.c
ch.kcl.ac.uk/CL/Region.htm) 24 October 2007 at the Wayback Machine and photograph (http://pm
sa.cch.kcl.ac.uk/images/nrpCL/clsk27.jpg) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/2011071618372
7/http://pmsa.cch.kcl.ac.uk/images/nrpCL/clsk27.jpg) 16 July 2011 at the Wayback Machine
9. Bermondsey Annual Year Book 1910
10. Medieval Southwark Martha Carlin 1999 Hambledon Press
11. Tooley Street Conservation Area Appraisal (http://www.southwark.gov.uk/Uploads/FILE_32917.pd
f) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090108141244/http://www.southwark.gov.uk/Uploads/F
ILE_32917.pdf) 8 January 2009 at the Wayback Machine

Sources

Weinreb, Ben; Hibbert, Christopher; Keay, John; Keay, Julia (2008). The London Encyclopaedia
(3rd ed.). Pan Macmillan. ISBN 978-1-405-04924-5.

External links
LondonTown.com information (http://www.londontown.com/LondonStreets/tooley_street_249.html)
Restaurants, Pubs & Bars in Tooley Street, London SE1 (http://www.london-se1.co.uk/restaurants/

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