Introduction

The history of the beauty and cosmetics industry in China is a rich tapestry woven with cultural
traditions, technological advancements, and societal influences spanning millennia (Samizadeh,
2018). From ancient rituals to modern innovations, cosmetics have played a significant role in
shaping perceptions of beauty and personal care practices among the Chinese people
(Samizadeh, 2018).

The origins of cosmetic practices in China are shrouded in antiquity, with evidence suggesting
their existence as far back as the Spring and Autumn Period (770–476 BCE). Archaeological
excavations, such as those at the Liujiawa site, have unearthed artifacts indicating the use of
cosmetics among the aristocratic class during this era (Li, 2009).

For instance, residues found inside sealed containers at the site contain ingredients like ruminant
adipose fat mixed with monohydrocalcite from cave moonmilk, suggesting their use as cosmetic
face cream by noblemen (Chong et al., 2019).

Early traces of makeup throughout Chinese history provide insights into the evolution of
cosmetic techniques, materials, and societal attitudes towards beauty, supporting cultural
expression and political values of grooming and appearance (Schafer, 1956; Blanco-Dávila,
2000). References to cosmetic practices can be found in historical texts such as "The Classic of
Poetry," dating back to the Zhou dynasty, highlighting the integration of cosmetics into courtly
rituals and adornment (Schafer, 1956).

In connection with this, the nature of early cosmetic production and use reflects a blend of
cultural, social, and religious influences. Taoist principles, for example, are intricately linked
with cosmetic production, as seen in the exploitation of moonmilk, a special stalactite found in
limestone caves, for cosmetic purposes (Han et al., 2021). This connection highlights the
intersection of spirituality and beauty practices in ancient China.

According to the Shiwu jiyuan by Gao Cheng of the Song dynasty, women began using powder
around 1100 BC during the reign of King Wen, while by the 3rd century BC, rouge was already
popular among imperial consorts and ladies-in-waiting in the court of Qin Shihuang (Cho, 2012).
Despite the scarcity of scientific analysis on cosmetic residues from pre-Qin periods, the
discovery of well-preserved artifacts like bronze jars at archaeological sites offers valuable
insights into ancient cosmetic containers and their contents (Zhao, 1990). These findings
underscore the sophistication of cosmetic production techniques and the importance of personal
grooming in ancient Chinese ssociety.

Yet, the significance of red makeup, including rouge and lip glosses made of cinnabar, further
underscores the importance of cosmetics in Chinese culture, as seen in the Tang dynasty (Benn,
2002). Cosmetic powders, known as fen, were made from rice grains or lead powder, with the
latter becoming mainstream among aristocrats by the Tang dynasty (Cho, 2012). The use of
white makeup powder, made from rice or freshwater pearls, dates back to ancient times,
reflecting a preference for fair skin associated with social status (Haney, 2020; Yu et al., 2017).

The desire for fair skin in China predates European influence and is rooted in socio-economic
and occupational status, as evidenced by historical accounts from the Han dynasty (Hill, 2018).
This preference for light skin continues to influence beauty ideals in present-day China and
Japan, with white skin symbolizing elite status (Hill, 2018; Rondilla et al., 2017). Additionally,
fashion trends such as applying yellow powder or pollen to the forehead were popular among
women from the 6th century through the Tang dynasty (Blanchard, 2018).

To sum it up, the history of makeup in China reveals a complex interplay of cultural, social, and
economic factors, shaping perceptions of beauty and personal care practices throughout the ages.
From ancient rituals to modern trends, cosmetics continue to be an integral part of Chinese
identity and cultural expression.

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