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Kgab 003
Kgab 003
doi: 10.1093/oxfclm/kgab003
Research Article
ABSTRACT
We interrogate fast fashion in the 21st century in the context of a changing climate, assessing emergent trends in sustain-
able fashion as an alternative consumption pathway through the annual ‘Trash the Runway’ event in Boulder, Colorado. In
this research, we interviewed and surveyed designers and analyzed workshop activities that led up to their annual fashion
show. We also interviewed and surveyed students at the University of Colorado who worked with designers to produce
short films about them and their work. The project centers on decolonial practice by providing —who are often marginal-
ized in decision-making processes—a stage to articulate policy and behavior changes to address climate change and
sustainability. We found designers expressed reticence before the workshops and events to speak about climate change in
everyday life, yet their design work creatively spoke powerfully for them, and they expressed less discomfort after the
experience, while they advanced their skillset as climate communicators. Moreover, we found both designers and student
partners reported that they think climate change will impact people greatly in the future. Also, while comparatively fewer
respondents reported that climate change impacts them personally, our findings showed those noting personal impacts
nearly doubled after participation in the sustainable fashion project. Although engagement with sustainable fashion helps
to defetishize production processes and link consumption habits with awareness of climate and environmental change,
more creative work should be done through fast- and sustainable-fashion endeavors to draw out spatial and temporal
considerations of climate change threats here and now.
INTRODUCTION industry’s emissions are on the rise as people buy – and discard – their
‘When you shop for new clothes, you’re probably not thinking about clothes more frequently. The problem is made worse by the rise of fast
the climate. But making apparel creates carbon pollution, and the fashion – clothes that are cheap to make and cheap to buy.’—Stephanie
Submitted 17 December 2020. Received (in revised form): 2 March 2021. Accepted: 4 March 2021
C The Author(s) 2021. Published by Oxford University Press.
V
This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/),
which permits unrestricted reuse, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
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switch to making fleece jackets with recycled polyester from harvested and to landfills strewn with discarded outfits. Also in
water bottles (Fig. 3). (https://www.patagonia.com/our-foot 2018, H&M declared its commitment to make their garments
print/recycled-polyester.html) from 100% recycled or sustainably sourced materials as they
In terms of informal efforts to change norms and social con- also opened a recycling facility for old clothes [34]. In 2018,
ventions, many have called for consumers to support ‘slow Burberry agreed to stop its practice of burning unsold clothes
fashion’ (purchasing garments that last a long time) [24] and to [35], while in 2019 they joined ‘the Science Based Targets
consider a ‘wardrobe diet’ (buying fewer textiles over time) [25] Initiative’ to commit to GHG emissions reductions targets in
(Fig. 4). Others have called on designers to produce two or fewer line with the 2015 United Nations (UN) Paris Climate Agreement
collections a year and produce more durable goods [26, 27]. And, [36]. Shortly thereafter, Kering (parent group to Yves Saint
others have demanded that the fashion industry limit growth, Laurent, Balenciaga and Gucci) announced that it has commit-
reduce waste and promote a circular economy [13]. From ted to carbon neutrality and to halving their GHG emissions by
research academics to eco-designer Stella McCartney [28], 2025 [37]. In that same month, Gabriella Hearst held the first
comedian Hasan Minaj [29] and actor Woody Harrelson [30], ‘carbon neutral fashion show’ at New York City Fashion Week
the fast fashion industry has increasingly been subjected to [38]. And in partnership with the UN, fashion industry stake-
scrutiny in the public arena [31]. holders launched the ‘Fashion Industry Charter for Climate
Developments have been catalyzed by trends in sustainable Action’ at the December UN climate negotiations in Poland.
fashion itself. As example, in 2017, Stella McCartney spoke out This Charter contained specific goals of emissions reductions
about the fashion industry as ‘incredibly wasteful and harmful (30% by 2030), materials use (‘prioritizing materials with low-cli-
to the environment’ [32]. Also in 2017, the initiative ‘Fashion mate impact’), and revamped supply chains (‘support global
Switch’ was revealed as London Fashion Week. Partnering with transition to low-carbon transport’). (https://unfccc.int/sites/de-
Vivienne Westwood and the Mayor of London, UK-based brands fault/files/resource/Industry%20Charter%20%20Fashion%20and
were encouraged to switch to a green energy supplier by 2020 %20Climate%20Action%20-%2022102018.pdf [7])
[9]. During this same time, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation re- In 2019, the company that owns retailer Zara announced a
leased a landmark report with strong calls to move the fashion plan to make all its collections from 100% sustainable fabrics by
industry to circular economies and emphases on reduced waste 2025 [39]. Several brands in the Spring/Summer 2020 collections
and durable goods [33]. catered to sustainable fashion trends as well, like Versace,
In 2018, Connect4Climate (Connect4Climate [the Dolce & Gabbana and Coco Chanel [2]. Meanwhile, ahead of the
Communication for Climate Change Multi Donor Trust Fund 2019 G7 summit, 32 of the world’s biggest and most influential
(MDTF)] has been one of the most influential and early entrants fashion brands signed onto the ‘Fashion Pact’ calling on 100%
to these spaces of sustainable fashion, beginning with their renewable energy by 2030 and changes in materials and ship-
work to initiate ‘Sustainability Dialogues in the Design Industry’ ping packaging, among a host of pledges [40]. In the words of
during the 2014 Milan Fashion Week.g (a global partnership pro- fashion correspondent Vanessa Friedman, ‘Forget street wear.
gram based in the World Bank) developed a traveling exhibit Sustainability [is] the hottest look of the day’ [38]. Furthermore,
called ‘X-Ray Fashion’ that has explored climate impacts of the climate advocacy groups like Extinction Rebellion made appear-
fashion industry through immersive virtual reality technology. ances at London Fashion week in recent years as they protested
This project has traveled from fashion events and climate nego- against fast fashion in the name of environmental protection
tiations as its creators have sought to defetishize the products [41, 42].
of fashion by virtually taking people into factories where work- Meanwhile, in the USA the 2020 Academy Awards featured
ers produce garments, into the fields where cotton is grown and gestures of sustainable fashion. For examples, Jane Fonda wore
4 | Oxford Open Climate Change, 2021, Vol. 1, No. 1
the same dress that she wore at the 2014 Cannes Film Festival,
while Saoires Ronon’s Gucci gown was said to have been made
of leftover black satin from her British Academy of Film and
Television Arts (BAFTA) awards dress (recycling of a sort) [43].
Largely situated in high-consuming societies, efforts to
make change have been strong on commitments, proclama-
tions, performance and rhetoric and not as strong on formal
governance. Yet there are some exceptions. For example, in
2018 a French law—‘Projet de loi relatif à la lutte contre le gas-
PROCESS
‘Fashion, the epitome of consumerism, is also its stealthiest critic’
Elizabeth Wilson [46]
The TTR project has been hosted each year by the ‘Common
Threads Creative Lab’ (https://www.shopcommonthreads.com/ Figure 2: Presley Church, TTR 9 Winner (and research co-author). Photographed
creative-lab/). The subtitle for this initiative is ‘teens transform- by Barbara MacFerrin 2019.
was granted backstage passes and worked to gather footage about the importance of climate change to them and questions
from different vantage points backstage and in the front of the about communication about climate change to more specific
house before, during and after the event (shared postevent for questions about their participation in TTR and its effects.
integration into compositions). Overall, 22 questions were then asked about their views of cli-
In the weeks following the show, the CU students took to mate change advocacy, soliciting responses based on the extent
editing the footage they captured of the TTR process and event. to which they agree or disagree with each statement.
In May 2019, 40 completed video compositions were presented The interdisciplinary approach taken up here sought to cap-
in a public event—attended by CU Boulder students, faculty, ture, value and interrogate interactions of fashion, climate
TTR designers and their families, and members of the local pub- change and sustainability. Our methodological approach sprung
Figure 8: Survey responses to the question ‘How worried are you about global
warming?’
Figure 6: TTR eight participants as winners are announced. Photographed by
Dylan Crossley 2017.
final events, one ITG student also noted, ‘I do think that being
able to interact with designers that are part of TTR has helped
me to broaden my understanding of climate change. It was very
helpful to hear how others view climate change, especially
those who are younger than me, I loved hearing how they are
affected and want to make a difference. It opened my eyes to
new perspectives of how we can all make a difference for the
better. . .we all can participate where we are comfortable’.
Second, we found that the ITG–TTR partnership helped to
are valid criticisms that point toward ongoing work to further away from a focus on what we use too much of and toward spe-
deepen and improve these efforts within TTR and elsewhere. cific impacts of overconsumption would take more discussion
Nonetheless, our analysis points to consistent evidence that and interaction with the science of environmental impact, but
TTR feeds hope that young people are going to have a positive might help participants to better understand and discuss the
impact on our future and that they have agency to more capably impact of their fashion choices as a system that starts with
tackle climate change. production.
Third, moving participants and audiences from awareness
to action is one of the most important challenges of climate
CONCLUSIONS: SOME SUCCESSES, YET MANY communication. In the case of this project, TTR participants
ners were able to attend to the iterative work of overcoming bility of the fashion industry relies on the total abandonment of
the fast fashion model, linked to a decline in overproduction and
preconstructed relationships in order to support equally hon-
overconsumption, and a corresponding decrease in material
ored roles within the project. Partnerships were also necessary
throughput. Such transformations require international coordina-
among student teams. These teams focused on allowing stu- tion and involve new mindsets being adopted at both the business
dents to work with each other rather than placing the university and the consumer levels. [13]
students in positions of authority over middle and high school
students. Again, students strived to honor each other’s exper- These ongoing dynamics intersect importantly with perva-
tise while providing support. sive challenges associated with socioeconomic, gender and ra-
The products of this project, high fashion clothing made cial inequality. For example, often clothes are manufactured in
from trash and videos of this process, exemplify the way in impoverished countries with low-wage often BIPOC workers
which the products of art and science partnership can be forces [60]. Although environmental impact has become more of a fo-
of decolonization. The clothing produced by young designers cus of the sustainable fashion industry, ongoing complicity in
using repurposed materials pushes against an industry that systematic oppression of Black and Brown often-poor commu-
thrives on extraction and exploitation. The fashion show in nities has increasingly been identified as shaping decisions all
which the designs were modeled brought together 1000 people along the fashion supply chain, from designers to manufac-
who were there to support youth authorship of knowledge on turers, marketers, transporters and consumers [61].
sustainability in the form of fashion. The videos documenting This research helps to advance further work that identifies
the production process brought viewers from the Boulder and how alternatives must be pursued [62], from technological
University of Colorado communities together and opened up developments (e.g. new fibers) [63] to cultural shifts in appetites
discussions on the issues and products highlighted by the (e.g. as conscious consumerism displaces commodity fetishism)
young designers. Furthermore, the research revealed how these [6, 64]. Together, these trends have been engaged in dynamic
efforts can (re)shape attitudes, perspectives and engagements processes called ‘fashion futuring’ [65]. As such, ‘slow fashion’
relating to fashion, climate change and sustainability. Although brands like Rustic Hue, Doodlage and [Ka] [Sha] have gained in
anchored through embodied work at the local scale, the pro- market share as customers factor working conditions, material
cesses and products are transferable to other cultural, social, use and up-cyling post-production into their purchasing deci-
economic and political contexts and locales. sions [66]. Although some have viewed these shifts with suspi-
Although project partners worked to attend the issues of cion of mere reforms [67], others have noted openings through
power and status and during the project held each other as sustainable fashion for more fundamental re-considerations of
equal participants, it’s important to note that even if these val- dominant systems of ‘unbridled consumption’ [68].
In the meantime, movements for greater accountability
ues are attended to within partnerships, ‘that doesn’t stop peo-
have grown. For example, Sofia Garcia-Torres et al. [69] have de-
ple on the outside from relying on the academics, patronizing
veloped a ‘Fast-Fashion Sustainability Scorecard’ as a disclosure
community members, privileging Whiteness/maleness/aca-
framework and assessment tool.
demic credentials, or trivializing the collaboration’ [54]. In the
Some of these alternatives may be prompted by external dy-
context of the TTR and other similar projects, there is a risk that
namics and others may be pursued through internal restructur-
culminating events and the messages they offer will be seen as
ing. Interestingly, the Royal Society of the Encouragement of
applicable to the performance space itself, but not outside of it.
Arts, Manufacturers and Commerce (RSA) found that in 2020
Although youth are honored as designers and authors of ideas
the COVID-19 pandemic has changed clothing consumption:
in the performance space, the ideas they share may be pushed
aside once the event is over. This speaks to the importance of it- • 28% of those surveyed said they are now habitually reusing or
erative events to maintain momentum in addressing the issue recycling clothes;
of who is allowed to speak on environmental and policy prob- • 35% of women stated that they intend to buy fewer clothes post-
lems within a community. pandemic; and
12 | Oxford Open Climate Change, 2021, Vol. 1, No. 1
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