King, Edward. Descriptive Portraiture of Europe in Storm and Calm

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DESCRIPTIVE PORTRAITURE
EUROPE
IN STORM AND CALM
TWENTY YEARS' EXPERIENCES AND REMINISCENCES
OF AN AMERICAN JOURNALIST
SKETCHES AND RECORDS OF NOTED EVENTS, CELEBRATED PERSONS AND

PLACES, NATIONAL AND INTERNATIONAL AFFAIRS IN FRANCE, SPAIN,
GERMANY, GREAT BRITAIN, HOLLAND, BELGIUM, AUSTRIA,
HUNGA R ROUMA XIA TURKE -IN-EUROPE,
J ', , J
SWITZERLAND, AND ITALY
BY
EDWARD KTNG
AUTHOR OP "THE CHEAT SOUTH," "FRENCH POLITICAL LEADERS," "ECHOES FROM THE ORIENT,'
ETC., ETC.
Over One Hundred Illustrations from Dcsi^tis made expressly for this il nrk
By FELIX REGAMEY, Paris,
A nd otliers
By J. WELLS CHAMPNEY, New York
Published by
('. A. NICHOLS & COMPANY
SPRINGFIELD, MASS.
18S6
Copyright, 1885.
Ev C. A. NICHOLS & in.
All rights /-. : * vi d.
ByTrtntftr
D. C. Public Library
JAN 9- 1934
INTRODUCTION
the courteous reader will take the trouble to pass in review his memo-
IF 1867 he will probably discover that was
ries of it at that period that
the current of travel from America to Europe assumed large proportions,
and that a consequent increase of interest in European affairs was felt by the
T
whole American public. l p to the completion of the Atlantic cable that
public had but spasmodic tits of curiosity as to events beyond the seas, and
it had been so passionately absorbed in the strengthening and asserting of its
own national life in the midst of the throes of the great civil war, that it
thought of Europe only as a stately pleasure-ground, filled with ancient

castles, rivers fringed with picturesque ruins, and sovereigns who disposed,
pretty much at their will, of the lives of soldiers who occasionally fought
each other amid much pomp and pageantry. The amateur student, the man
of letters, the painter, and the millionaire, who had lived for a few years in
Madrid, or Paris, or London, seemed to acquire in the eves of their fellow-

townsmen, when they returned, an added romantic charm, from the fact,
that they had been to Europe. Conscientious tourists have, perhaps, been
less numerous and less painstaking in their observation in the past few years
than in the days before 1830 or l<S-t!s, when those who travelled at all
travelled by packet and by stage-coach, and enlivened the accounts of their

experiences with many references to their perils on flood and field, and their
vicissitudes by nights in country inns, lint after the cable was laid, and
the panorama of Europe's events passed under the daily notice of the most
omnivorous readers in the world, there was an annual rush to Europe, and
he or she who had not been across seas felt a certain lack in education which
it was a trifle humiliating to admit.

It seemed, also, to those who had been to Europe to study the movements
of its varied populations, or to witness the strange march of its variegated
....
VI INTRODUCTION.
whereas it was merely jogging along as before: only now the events which
had been but vaguely heard of, or told of long alter they had transpired, were
at once recited for the benefit of Americans with a minuteness and attention
to detail which were not accorded them even in the countries where they took
place. The cable made the appetite for Old-World news so keen that the
American public presently found itself better informed as to what was occur-
ring in Paris —even as to the tittle-tattle of social circles — than about the
sain.' class of affairs or gossip in New York or Philadelphia. Whole colonies
of newly enriched Americans settle. I in London, in Paris, in Vienna, and in
all the cities which, by their historic prestige or by their local charm,
exercised powerful attraction upon those who had large means at their
command. The American, with his open purse and genial manners, took
the place in the respect of the foreign landlord and shopkeeper which was
so long held by the English nobleman, with his post-chaise and his passion
tor St. Julien. Europe was pleased with its new visitors, nattered at their
undisguised delight, and, while it now and then laughed at their easy atti-
tude and their extreme frankness, it welcomed them as one always wel-
comes those who bring profit in their train.
At this same period, when the American had awakened or renewed his
interest in the parent lands from which his composite nationality had sprung
the Old World was entering upon a season of terrible storm, interspersed, it
is true, with fitful calm, but storm quickly recurrent, violent, and sweeping
in its results. Europe had apparently settled down, after the wars of 1854-
55, and of 1859, to uninterrupted enjoyment of the rest which the "party
ot order," in all the Continental countries, had endeavored to inaugurate
after 1848.
The era of conferences and expositions seemed almost to indicate

the relinquishment of the old policy of plunder, partition, and political
gambling. Secular enemies protested their future eternity of friendship;
empires talked of founding themselves upon peace; small nations smiled
in their fancied security; and the "balance of power" was still believed
in even by so clever a man as M. Thiers.
But suddenly the face of the European world was changed. The great
movement of unification — the sublime work of this last half of the nine-
teenth century — was begun in earnest. < hit of the sands of Brandenburg
-
INTRODUCTION. Vll
supreme influence in the Germanic States; Sadowa was fought ; the balance
of power was almost a forgotten illusion ; the policy of compensation so long
talked of was scattered to the winds ; the military strength of France was
broken; the English in their insular fortress trembled lest their own pecu-
liar position might be changed; the German Emperor was crowned in
Versailles ; the kingdom of Italy took back its rightful heritage of Rome ; the
temporal power of the Pope was broken ; the Republic and its attendant.
reforms were declared in France and Spain; and the Powers of the North
appeared no longer shadowy, but gigantic ami imposing real forms,
asserting with emphasis and might their future supremacy. England,

with her vast domain scattered through the seas, seemed happily free
from the entanglements of politics upon the Continent, and found consola-
tion in the development of her so-called Imperial policy, waiting an early
opportunity of asserting her equality with these new masters of the
European situation. The great storm of the war of 1870-71, in which

the French empire and the last vestiges of monarchy in France disappeared ;
the triumphs and the exactions of the Germans ; the. swift uprising to im-
portance of the Italians, — were things which upset all European calculations.
The forward movement for the division into large States — movement so
long cheeked by consummate statesmen, — had begun in earnest, and was

to be carried on with but trifling interruption henceforward. Then came
the enormous cataclysm of the Commune, — the final and terrible effort of
Socialism on the soil of France ; after which the gaunt spectre took up her
northward march, soon to terrify the Germans, flushed with their victories,
and the Russians busy with their ambitious plans for conquest in Europe
and Asia. After this there was a lull, soon succeeded by another storm, —
the great convulsion out of which were born new kingdoms, new nations
in South-Eastern Europe; and then it was that England, seeing her oppor-
tunity, — perhaps using it with hesitation and too feebly, yet seeing and
seizing — maintained
it, the place which she might have lost. The ashes
of national feeling in the scattered States in the South-East, which had
so long been tributary to the Turk, were fanned into flames. The work
of revolt was quick and hardy. The sympathy of England was keen, far-
reaching, strong. There was a race between Russia and Great Britain for
mastery and prestige in the Balkan peninsula. The revolution in the

Herzegovina and in Bosnia, the successful war in Servia, the exposure of
Vlll INTRODUCTION.
the outrages in Bulgaria, were followed by the quick descent of :i powerful

army from the North. The great Russo-Turkish war of 1877 was begun ;
and then if Mas seen that the Eastern Question, which had been so long
derided as an antique fossil, to be looked at, taken to pieces now and

again, and relegated to the comfortable obscurity where it was thought to
belong, was thenceforth a vital, all-important factor in European politics.
The hand of England was raised to present the complete triumph of the
conquering Russians; Constantinople was saved from the invader; but both
those who wished to invade it and those who desired to protect it recognized
that its fate must soon be sealed. Bulgaria, so long prostrate, rose to a
principality; Roumania and Servia became kingdoms; Roumelia, almosl a

Russian province. Greece sprang to arms, and took Thessaly from the Turks.
The Emperors of the North already hinted at an alliance with the mysterious
empire, whose name means the Empire of tin' East, "Austria Infelix," —
one day, perhaps, to be " Fortunate Austria :
" and the Latin Stall's, alarmed,
disgusted, and amazed, felt constrained to spend their energy upon internal
reforms and improvements. Beaconsfield had shown a bold front at the
Berlin Congress, but he passed away, and the milder demeanor of Gladstone
left but little fear in the minds of the riders of the North that their prestige
would be wrested from them by any of those alliances once so easily made
and so easily broken.
The changes thus achieved in a few short years: the unification of two
great sets of States in Italy and Germany; reduction to the second plan, as
the theatrical architects say. of France and Austria ; the placing in doubt, of
the exact status of England in relation to general European affairs; the
menace conveyed to the small European States like Belgium, Holland,
Switzerland, and others, which had long fancied themselves secure; the up-
rising of new States, and the release from barbarous despotism ot all South-
Eastern Europe, soon to be seamed with through lines of rail, and by the
opening up ot' its vast resources to exercise new influence on European com-
merce; the secure and patient progress of Great Britain towards those re-
forms which to-day even the highest in rank of her privileged classes admit
as necessary and just, — these, with their attendant weight of romantic,
picturesque, and pathetic occurrences, have tilled full with the wonderful
and the thrilling a period of half a generation, some episodes from which the
author has embodied in his humble book. For, without special assumption
—
INTRODUCTION. IX
of humility, it would ill become him to assume any other motive, in present-
ing the following pages, than that of reviewing, here amply, there cursorily,
now with the confidence born of personal knowledge, now with the hesita-
tion which accompanies hearsay, — this splendid succession of events, large

and little, from 1867 to the present, time.
So he, without further parley, invites the reader to witness with him the
downfall of the Second French Empire ; the pageants of the great Exposi-
tion ; to look in at a sovereign's palace or an Empress's boudoir; assist at a
diplomatic intrigue or the production of a famous opera-bouffe ; to he a guest

at a royal wedding or a hull-tight; get under tire at a barricade ; "do" a
revolution; follow the track of contending armies and be incarcerated as a
spy ; see the declaration of a Republic and the execution of a noted criminal ;
be besieged and besieger; help at the coronation of an Emperor and at the

flight of an Empress ;
go through from beginning to end the greatest and
most sanguinary insurrection of modern times ; peep in on busy England,
on its sports, its industries, its politics ; see a Passion Play ; be mobbed at an
Irish National Land League meeting: go down across the fields and through
the deflles of Bulgaria to the Balkans; talk of the Sultan and the Emperor
of Austria : see Bismarck at home and abroad, on horseback and in his
study ; eat roasted mutton in an insurgent camp with knives which have but
lately served to kill Turks: and, finally, to take a hasty glance at the great
colonial game on which all European Powers have (altered in the last few
years.
If the reader finds here and there too much of storm, let him turn to the
pages in which is reflected some little of that serenity and repose for which
European society is so much to be envied. If he will have it that the verdict
on certain men who stood high, and dazzled while they stood, is too severe,
let him reflect that the author but expresses the opinion which has come to
be that of the majority in Europe ; for there is no doubt that, in the
future, European majorities will be democratic, non-Imperial, progressive .
and it cannot be denied that, as in Vienna a new and beautiful capital has
been built like a ring round an ancient, black, and grimy town, so, spring-
ing up all round European tradition and formula are the light and bright
edifices of modern institutions. If Europe fights so much, she does not fight
in vain. Each period of storm and thunder makes the sky clearer, the
spectacle on the horizon more impressive, more beautiful.
PREFATORY NOTE.
this volume the author has endeavored to embody the results of a
IN
lengthy term of special correspondence in Europe, during which time
he has contributed letters and articles upon the political and general sit-
uation. During a large part of the epoch covered by the narrative in
this volume, the author enjoyed exceptional opportunities for observing
the conduct of affairs in the various European countries of which he has

ventured to treat, and has endeavored impartially and faithfully to de-
scribe events which are among the most important of the century.
In the task of this portrayal he has been aided by the talent and
skill of M. Felix Regamey, a distinguished Parisian illustrator, who has
contributed more than one hundred original sketches to the work; and
to the pencil of Mr. J. Wells Champney, well known in the artistic
world.
It would be impossible in the limits of a single volume to describe,
even in the simplest fashion, all the great events which have taken place
in Europe from 1867 to the present time. The author has contented
himself with embodying in his narrative those with which he was most
familiar; and he trusts that the public will acquit him of any attempt
to be either profound or sensational. He has tried to tell a simple story
which may afford pleasure and profit to the general reader.

CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
The Volcanic Shimmer. — Paris — The Second Empire at the Height of Glory.
in 1867. its
— The Crowning of the Edifice. — The Festival of Peace. — The Prophecy of Evil.—
Napoleon Receives Distinguished Guests. — Attempted Assassination of Alexander
II.— The Sultan in Paris. —The Luxembourg Panic. — The Hidden Forces at Work, 21
CHAPTER II.
The Imperial Court Compiegne. — An Historic City. — Luxury and Splendor. — Napoleon
at
Ill's Courtship. — The Countess of Montijo. — What an Imperial Hunting-Party Cost.
— Aping the First Empire. — The Imperial Family. — Parvenus and Princes. — The
Programme of the Season at Compiegne. — How the Guests were Received. — The Im-
perial Theatre. — What the People Paid — Prince Napoleon. — Princess Clothilde,
for. 31
chapter hi.
What was the Second Empire? — How was — The Perjury of the Prince Presi-
it Created?
dent. — The Plebiscite. — The — General Changarnier, and
Massacres of December.
hisFidelity to Country. —The Protest of the Deputies. — Struggle of the Citizens.
his
— The Reign of Terror. — The Imperial Eagle. — A Period of Absolute Repression . 40
CHAPTER IV.
The Imperial Reforms Come Too
mune Foreshadowed .............
—
Late. — Uprising of the Internationale. The Com-
49
CHAPTER V.
Events in Spain. — The Outcropping of Revolution. — R6le of the Internationale. — Brief
Review of Spanish Politics. —
Dona Isabel. —
Prim and Serrano. A Journey—
through the North of Spain. —
Biarritz and San Sebastian. —
A Wonderful Rail-
way. — —
The Approach to the Escurial. An Impressive Edifice. —
Looking at a Dead
Monarch 55
CHAPTER VI.
In Revolution Time. — Saragossa. — A Quaint Old Spanish City. — The Protest against the
Reestablishment of Monarchy. —A
Vigorous Fight. —
The Church of the Virgin
Del Pilar. — On the Way —
Down to the Mediterranean. Alicante. The
to Valencia. — —
Grao. —
Getting into Valencia before the Bombardment. —
An Adventurous Prome-
nade. —
Crossing the Streets under Fire. —A
Barricaded Hotel. —
Street Fighting in
Earnest. —
Republicans and Regulars 64
—A
CONTEXTS.
CHAPTER VII.
The Nine Days' Fight Valencia. — Alamenos ami the Bombardment. — The Insurgents
in
ami their Tactics.— Departure of the Consuls. — Picturesque ami Romantic Episode.
— An Interrupted Breakfast. — Meeting of the Brothers. — The End of the Struggle.
Scenes the Market-place. — In the Cathedral after the Battle. — Castelar and his
in
Endeavors for Liberty. — Spanish Politics since 1869. — Spanish Characteristics. — The
Religious Passion Plays. — The Sublime and the Ridiculous in Religion
CHAPTER VIII.
Ten Years After. —

The Kingship Reestablished in Spain. — doing to Royal Wedding. — a
The French Gate of the Sea. Marseilles. — -Reminiscences of the Pestilence.

Napoleon III. and Marseilles. — Barcelona. — The Catalonian People. — From Bar-
celona to Valencia. — A Retrospect. — A Spanish Bishop. — Tortosa. — In the
Beautiful South. — In the Market-place of Valencia. —Out of the World into
Church
CHAPTER IX.
Madrid and its Gloom. — The Royal Wedding in 1879. — Queen Christina and King
Alfonso. — The Puerta del Sol. — The Church of the Atocha. — Memories of Dona
—
Isabel. — Royal
Compared ...............
Rejoicings. An Interview with Castelar. — Gambetta and Castelar
91
CHAPTER X.
The Bull-Fight in Madrid before the King and Queen. — Eight Bulls Slaughtered. — A
Strange Sport. — Excitement of the Populace. — The Matador. — Duels between
Men and Beasts 101
CHAPTER XL
The Famous Museum in Madrid.— The Palace of the Cortes. — Noted Tapestries. — A
— — A Fonda. — Beggars. —
Visit to Toledo.
The Grotto of Hercules.
The Spanish Cloak and its Character.
— The Alcazar. — In the Ancient Church .... Ill
CHAPTER XII.
Dead Celebrities.— Don Alvaro de Luna ami his Famous 'hapel Toledo. — The Ancient
(
in
Gates. — The Cloister of San Juan de Los Reyes. — Cordova. — The Mezquita. —
Relic of the Moors. — The Plain of Seville. -The — The Cathedral. — The
- (lira Ida.
Hardens of the Aleazar. — The Duke of Montpensier IL'l
CHAPTER XIII.
The French Empire — Subterranean Throes. — Manifestations. — The Assassina-

in 1809.
tion Victor Noir. — Pierre Bonaparte. — The R6le of Rochefort. — Two Hundred
id'
and Fifty Thousand Workmen singing the Marseillaise. — The Imperial Press Law, lo2
—
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIV.
The Emperor and his Speeches from the Throne. —
Opening Day of the Corps Legis-
latif. —
The Opposition. —
Sketches of the Leading Members. M. Thiers and his —
Attitude towards the Second Empire. —
The Splendor of his Irony. His Eloquence —
Characterized. — Berryer. Lanjuinais, Jules Simon, and Jules Ferry. — Rochefort
and his Yellow Gloves HO
CHAPTER XV.
The Epoch of Unification. — Danger to France from the
National Growth in Italy and Ger-
many. —
Napoleon III. and his Policy of Greed. —
How He was Duped by the
Northern Powers. —
The King of Prussia at Compiegne. —
The pronation March. (
—
Bismarck in Paris. —
The Luxembourg Affair. —
Benedetti and Bismarck. The —
Downfall of the Policy of Compensation . . 148
CHAPTER XVI.
Prcvost-Paradol and his Fatal Error. —A Journalist who Yielded to the Seductions of the
Empire. — The Work which he had Done against Imperialism. — Danger of Riots in
1870. — The Execution of Troppmann. — An Experience of the Secret Police. — Gus-
tavo Flourens. — The Arrest of Rochefort. — Flourens and his Insurrection . . 156
CHAPTER XVII.
The Intrigue of Marsha] Prim and Bismarck. — The Events which Led the Declaration to
of — The Protest of M. Thiers. — Personal Reminiscences of the Excitement

War. in
Paris. — Anecdotes of the Unreadiness of the Second Empire. — General Ducrot and
Strasbourg. — The Corruption and Incapacity of the French Quarter-
his Troubles in
master's Department. — No Rations. — No Ammunition ...... 165
CHAPTER XVIII.
Departure of the Emperor for the War. — Volcanic Throes Renewed. — Movements of the
Internationale. — The German Workingmen's Address. — The Imperial Court at Blois
— Foreshadowing of the Commune. — M. Rothan's Revelations. — Bismarck and his
Views of the War. — Alarm of the German People. — Fears of a French Invasion.
— Entile Ollivier's Account of the Manner which Hostilities were Decided upon. —
in
M. Rothan and the Duke de Grarnont. — The French Minister of War is Surprised.
Marshal Le Bceuf's Deceptions 174
CHAPTER XIX.
The Race for the Rhine. — Yon
Moltke's Mysterious Journeys before the War. Captain —
Samuel's Telegram. — The
German Advance. —
Scenes along the Historic Stream.—
At Coblentz. —
At Mayence. —
The Road to Wiesbaden. The Crown Prince at —
Speyer. —
In the Pfalz. —
The Bavarian Troops. Their Appearance. — The Fright —
ot the Inhabitants 182
——
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XX.
The Spectacle in the Palatinate. —A Visit to Landau. —The Saxon Troops on the March.
— A Night Drive. — Echoes from Weissenburg. — Through the Glades to Kaiserslau-
— The Narrative of Strange Adventures which there befell — A Military
tern.
Prison. — Challenging a Denunciator. — Arrested a Second Time ....
us.
190
CHAPTER XXI.
Germersheim. — The Rhine Bed. — Across the Frontier. — Weissenburg. — On to Woerth.
— The Disaster to the French. — The German Descent of the Hill under Fire.
Charge of General Bonnemain's Cuirassiers. — The Valley of Hell. — MacMahon's
Defeat. — The Horrors of the Retreat. — Frossard's Negligence. — Bazaine's Jealousy, 10(i
CHAPTER XXII.
The Great Battles in front of and around Metz. — Friederich Karl. — The Saarbruck
— Folly and Incompetence. — The Brandenburg Cavalry. — The Field of
Affair.
Rezonville. — Gravelotte. — Saint Privat. — Mars La Tour ..... SOS
CHAPTER XXIII.
French and German Rumors. — The Jaumont Quarries. —-Truth about this Incident.
The Wounded at Frankfort. — Serving
in an Extempore Sanitary Corps. Paris in —
Confusion. The Spy Scare. — Dangerous to Speak the Truth.
— A New Ministry. — —
—
.Tules Favre's Campaign against the Falling Empire. —The
Comte Do Palikao.
Excited Crowds. —
The Empire Ends, as it began, in blood ..... 214
CHAPTER XXIV.
The Declaration of the Republic. — Exciting Scenes on Place de Concorde ami the
tin- la
Boulevards. — Invasion of the Corps Legislatif. — Gambetta Pronounces the Down-
fall
tie- Empress ...............

of the Imperial Family. — The Procession to the Hotel de Ville. — The Flight of
CHAPTER XXV.
Sedan. — The March to the Ardennes. — The
Headstrong Palikao. The frown Prince —
of Saxony's Army. — General De
Beaumont. The Retreat to Sedan.
Failly at —
General De Winrpffen comes upon the Scene. -Tie- Prussians Open Fire in front of
— —
Sedan. - Disaster to MacMahon.
at Bazeilles. — De Wimpffen's Forlorn Hope ........
Slaughtered by Invisible Enemies. The Battle
241
CHAPTER XXVI.
The Quarrel between Ducrot and De Wimpffen. — The Interview with the Conquerors.
The Question of Alsatia liaised. —
Divergence of Opinion between Bismarck and Von
Moltke. —
The French Council of War. —
Napoleon's Departure from Sedan. Na- —
poleon as a Prisoner. —
Bismarck's Interview with Him. —
Over the Battle-field.
Singular Appearance of the Dead. —
King William on the F'ield. — His Meeting with
Napoleon. — The M's in the Bonaparte History 251
—
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXVII.
A Solemn the Tuileries. — Advance of
Situation. — Return of the Exiles. — The Spoils at
the Germans. — The Military Strength of the French Capital. — The Sixteenth Siege
of Paris. — Closing — Curious Sights the Capital. — Gen. Trochu's Review. —
in. in
A Visit to Asnieres. — Prussian Prisoners. — The Fight at Chatillon. — The French
Retreat. — The Occupation of Versailles. — The Crown Prince of Prussia Visits the
Ohl Home of Louis XIV 2G1
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Enemies Face to Face. —-.Jules Favre and Bismarck— Personal Character-
at Ferrieres.
istics of the German Chancellor. — His — A Portrait of llim
Notions about France.
by Favre. — His Opinion of Napoleon III. — He Deceived Everybody. — The Crush-
ing Terms Demanded of France. — The Force of Caricatures. — M. Favre Considers
his Mission at an End 2G9
CHAPTER XXIX.
The Army of Strasbourg. —
General Uhrich and the Fortress which he had to Defend.
The Forts. —
The Cathedral. —
Fire and Bombardment. The Tyranny — of the Mob.
Immense Destruction.
German Siege Tactics.
—
Loss of one of the most Valuable Libraries in
—
The Spectacle after the Surrender .....— the World.
278
CHAPTER XXX.
Through the Conquered Country. — Strasbourg — Railway Journeys under
after its Trial.
— Nancy. — The — Epernay. — The Story of
Prussian
Pere Jean.
Military Rule. Bavarians.
— Getting up to Versailles. — The Voices of the Forts .... 289
CHAPTER XXXI.
The Period Hope. — Splendid Improvisation of Defense. — What Paris did under
of
Pressure.— The Forts and their Armament. — The Departure of Gambetta a Bal- in
loon. — Outcroppings of the Commune. — Fights outside the Walls of the Capital. —
The Defense of Chateaudun. — A Bright Page French Military Annals. — A Panic
in
at Versailles. — Von Moltke saves bis Papers. — German Preparations for Defense . 300
CHAPTER XXXII.
The Siege of Metz. —
Its Tragedies ami its Humors. —
Steinmetz the Terrible. Bazaine's —
Curious Indecision. —
The Guerilla Warfare around the Fortress. The Poisoned —
Wells Legend. —
Starving the Citizens. —
The Odor of Death. General Changar- —
nier's Mission 308
CHAPTER XXXIII.
The Surrender of Metz. — The Suspicious Nature of Bazaine's Negotiations. — The En-
— The Affair of the Flags. — The Prisoners Front
voy from the Fallen Imperialists.
of Metz and in Camps in Germany .......... in
310
—
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
The Desperate Battles at Le Bourget. — Remarkable Valor of the French. — Episodes of
— The — Thiers and Bismarck. — The Insurrec-
the Defense.
tion of the 31st of October.
( !harge of the Marines.
— Brilliant (.'(induct of .Inks Ferry ..... 823
CHAPTER XXXV.
Life at Head-quarters. — The Parades — Von Moltke Versailles.
on the Place d'Armes. in
— King William's Daily Labors. — The General Staff. — The
— Bismarck's Habits.
Hotel des Reservoirs. — A Journey around Besieged Paris. — The Story of Mont
Valerien. -Maisons War Time. — Getting under Fire. — The French
Laffitte in
and German Pickets. — In the Foremost Investment Fines. — Montmorency. — The

Fight near Enghien. — Saint Gratien. — The Day before Champigny . . . . 329
CHAPTER XXXVI.
The Period of Despair. — The Final Effort. — The Great Sortie. — Champigny. — The
Fight at Villiers. — Ducrot and his Disaster. — Valorous Conduct of the French.
The News of the Defeat of the Loire Army 338
CHAPTER XXXVII.
Panoramic View of the German Investment Lines. Margency. Gonesse. —
Chelles. — — —
The Various !orps and their Appearance. — Pictures from Versailles during the Occu-
(
pation. —
The Snow. —
The Landwehrsmen. The Christmas Festivities — . . . :U7
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
The Point of View. — The Campaign in the South. — The Phantom Mobile. — New Year's
Day. — Scene at the ace. — The Bombardment of Paris. — Between the Fires. — In
1
'a I
at Versailles ..........
Front of Fort Issy. — In the Batteries. — Coronation of King William of Prussians
Emperor of Germany 35G
CHAPTER XXXIX.
Bourbaki and Belfort. — The Final Sortie of the French. Montretout. — The Panic - in
Versailles. — The Treaty for Peace. — The End of the Siege of Paris. . . . 300
CHAPTER XL.
personal Reminiscences of the — The " Neutral Zone." — Wonders
Close of the Siege.
and Comicalities. — Through the Park at Cloud. — The Crown Prince's Redoubt.
St.
— Starving Parisians. — The Hungry Faces. — A Hundred People following a Hare . 370
CHAPTER XLI.
A Great Historic ( Occasion. — The
Assembly at Bordeaux. —Thiers in his New R6le. A —
Tragedy in the Theatre de la Comedic.
Political —
The Protest of the Alsatians. —
The Pinal Impeachment of the Empire. A Strange Scene. —
Louis Blanc, Victor —
Hugo, and the Ither Exiles.
( —
The Votes for Peace. A Stern Renunciation. The — —
Mavor of Strasbourg Dies of a Broken Heart 384
—
CONTEXTS.
PAOB
CHAPTER XLII.
Garibaldi ami his Role. — New Italy. — The Upgrowth of her Nationality. — Causes that
Hindered it and Conduced to it.— The Influence of Napoleon — His Fatal Mistake
III. \
in Counselling the Alliance of Prussia and — Downfall of the Old French
Italy.
— The Hesitation of France. — Occupation of Rome by
Monarchical Policy.
Government. — The Pontifical Zouaves. ......... the Italian
396
CHAPTER XLIII.
The Great Pier between the Mediterranean and the Adriatic. —
Brindisi and Naples.
The Revival of Commerce. —
Industrial Exhibitions. —
Universal Progress. — The
Struggle between Church and State. — Pius IX. and Victor Emmanuel. The High —
Priest of European Conservatism. —
The " Non Possnrnus "of the Vatican. — Familiar
Traits of Victor Emmanuel 403
CHAPTER XLIV.
The Pope at the Vatican. — The Daily Life of Leo XIII. —
Its Picturesque, Spiritual, and %
Political Aspects. — The Continuance of the War between the Vatican and the Quiri-
nal. — The Aims and Ambitions of the Catholic Party in Italy. —
Evolution or Revo-
lution. — Prophecies of the Catholics. — Unredeemed Italy 414
CHAPTER XLV.
The German Parade on Longchamps. —
The Triumphal Entry into Paris. Shadows of Civil —
War. —Outbreak of " La Commune." —
The Greatest Insurrection of Modern Times.
— Its Cause and its Hopes. —
The Assassination of the Generals. The First Fights. —
— The Manifestation of the " Friends of Order " 425
CHAPTER XLVI.
Decrees of The Commune. —
The First Important Battle. —
Flourens Loses his Life.
— —
Notes on Communal Journalism.
— An Artillery Duel. —
An Astonishing Spectacle .......
The Burning of the Guillotine. -Great Funerals.
437
CHAPTER XLVII.
Pictures of The Commune. — General Cluseret. — The Hostages. — A Visit the 'ommunal to (
Ministry of Public Instruction. — The Armistice. — Touching Incidents of the Fratri-

cidal Struggle 443
CHAPTER XLVIII.
Dombrowski in the Saddle. — The Commune. — General Cluseret. —
Foreign Chiefs of the
His Arrest. — Delescluze. — A Despairing Revolutionist. — Rossel. — Bergeret. — The
Declamatory Period. — The Combat at the Southern Forts. —-A Hot Corner Under
Shell Fire. — The Women of the Commune 454
CHAPTER XLIX.
The Commune Suppresses the Conservative Journals. — Insincere Professions of Liberal-
ism. —The Pere Ducheue. — The Unroofing of M. Thiers's House. —The Commu-
nistic Ideal of Society. — Invasion — Reminiscences of Auber the
of the Convents.
Composer. — His Death. — The Fall of the Vendome Column. — The Communists
Rejoice over the Wreck of Imperial Splendor. — Measures against Social Vices . . 4G3
—A
10 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER L.
The Narrow Escape from a Reign of Terror. —

The Men who Composed the Communal
Councils. —
The Beginningof the End. —
The Entering of the Regular Troops. - The
Tocsin. —
The Night Alarm +72
CHAPTER LI.
Street Fighting as a Science. — The Barricades. — A Rusede Guerre.-— Looking down on a

— The Burning of the
Battle.
Dombrowski's Death .............
Hue Royale. — The Defence of Montmartre. — Genera!
478
CHAPTER LII.
A Nightof Fires. — Tin- Petroleuses. - — The Execution of Women. — Paris in Flames . 486
CHAPTER LIII.
The New Fight of The Bastille. — The Hotel de Ville. —The Picturesque and Dramatic
Episodes of the Great Battles 49'.)
CHAPTER LIV.
The Retreat from the Chateau d'Eau. — Ruins of the Hotel de Ville. —
The Burning of
Important Papers. — Piquet. — The Third Period of the Great Seven Days' Fight. —
At the Buttes Chaumont 504
CHAPTER LV.
Concessions of M. Thiers. —
The Vindictiveness of the Middle Classes. Massacre of the —
Prisoners. —
English Comments on the Seven Days' Fight. Last Moments of the —
— — —
Insurrectionists. Testimonies of Eye-witnesses.
Curious Photograph. —
Out of Storm into Calm ........
Statistics of the Slaughter.
512
CHAPTER I. VI.
After Storm. Calm —

London and Paris. — Points of Resemblance and of Difference.
London and Paris Cockneys. Old London. — —
Contrasts in Manners, I? and I Drink.
— Stimla\ in the Two Capitals. —
Mutual Respect and Comical Concealment of It . 519
CHAPTER LVII.
The Germans at Dieppe. — The — An Effective Fortification. — The
English Channel.
"Precious Isle set in — The North Sea ('oast. — English Seaside
the Silver Sea."
Resorts. — The White Cliffs of England. — The Great Commercial Highway. — George
Peahody at Portsmouth ............. 527
CHAPTER LVIII.
England's "Silent Highway." —
The Sources of her Greatness. Her Protection of her —
Trade. —
Woolwich the Mighty. —
Greenwich and its History. The Procession of —
Commerce. —
London's
Dore in London ..............—
Port. — The Hocks and their Revenues. — Loudon Bridge.
533
—
CONTENTS. 11
CHAPTER LIX.
Up River.— The Historic Thames. — The University Races. — Oxford and Cambridge. —
The Great Race of — Harvard Oxford. — Putney. — Wimbledon. — Hammer-
18<i9. vs.
smith. — Mortlake. — Thames Tactics. — A Reminiscence of Charles Dickens. — His

Powers as an After-Dinner Speaker 539
CHAPTER LX.
Richmond and Romance. — Richmond Hill. — The " Star and Garter." — The Richmond
its
Theatre. — The Thames Valley. — Twickenham. — The Orleans Exiles and their
English Home. — Strawberry Hill. — Hampton Court. — Wolsey and Cromwell. — The
Royal Residence. — Windsor and its Origin ........ 546
CHAPTER LXI.
English Royalty. —
The Court. —
Memorials of Windsor. St. George's Chapel. The — —
— —
Park at Windsor. The Royal Palaces.
Memorials of Buckingham Palace . ..........
Drawing-Rooms at Buckingham Palace.
552
CHAPTER LXII.
St. James's Palace.- —
The Story of Kensington. — Its
Gardens. The Charges which —
Royalty Entails. —
The Prince of Wales. —
An Industrious Heir Apparent. Marlbo- —
rough House. —
Tlie Title of Prince of Wales. —
National Views of Allowances to
Royal Personages. —
Sandringham 558
CHAPTER LXIII.
Fortunes and Incomes of Members df the English Royal Family. — Ancient and Hereditary
— The — — Precedency. — The
Pensions.
cratic Element
Invisible Court.
in the House of Commons
Its
.........
Functionaries. Aristo-
566
CHAPTER LXIV.
The Parliament Palace. — History and Tradition. — The New Home of the Plutocrats. —
The Victoria Tower. — Westminster Hall. — The House of Lords. — Procedure the in
Hereditary Chamber. — The Force of Inertia. — Parliamentary Calm . . . . 572
CHAPTER LXV.
The Irish — The House of Commons. — The Speaker. — The Peers and theCre-
Members.
ation of New Peers. — The Passion for the Possession of Land. — An Active Session.
— Procedure. — Bringing in Bills .......... 579
CHAPTER LXV I.
The Treasury Whip. — Parliamentary Forms. — Oddities of the House of Commons.

Authority of the Speaker. — The Home Rule Members. — Irishmen in London.
— "Reform." — The
Anomalies of English Representation.
don's Municipal Government ........... Reconstruction of Lon-
585
——
12 CONTENTS.
CHARTER LXVII.
The Evolution towards Democracy. — Sir Charles Dilke and Mr. Chamberlain. — English
Directness and Plainness of Speech. — Lord Hartington. — Mr. Labouchere. — Eng-
Sources of Revenue. — The Land Tax. — How Evaded. — Free Trade in
lish
Land. — Taxing the Privileged Classes. — The Corning Struggle
it is
.... 591
CHAPTER LXVII I.
Public and Speakers. — Spurgeon

Popular his Tabernacle. — The Temperance
in
Question.— The Financial Reform League. — Facts for Rich and Poor. — Bradlaugh
inthe Hall of Science. — Republican Meeting Trafalgar Square — Gladstone at
in
a Funeral. — "Oh! how Dreadful !" — Public Meetings England. — The Lord in
Mayor of London. — Banquets the Mansion-House. — The City Companies.

at
"Lord Mayor's Day." — The Procession 598
CHAPTER LXIX.
"The City." — The — Exact Limits of the City District. — Demo-
Daily Pilgrimage to It.
lition Temple Bar.

of — Fleet Street. — Chaucer's Battle in this Famous
The Griffin. —
Avenue. —The Newspaper Region.— The Temple. — The Inns. — The Law Students.
— Paul's and Neighborhood. — The Crypt
St. its Paul's. — The Publisher's in St.
Haunts. —The Bank. — Lombard Street. — Christ's Hospital. — The "Times" . 609
CHAPTER LXX.
The Smoke and Dirt of London. — Temperature. — Poor People and Dirty People.
The London Season. — What it Is, and What it —The Races. — The Derby.
Means.
— Going Down to Epsom. —The Return. — Goodwood. — Ascot. — The Royal Acade-
my. — John Millais. — Sir Frederick Leighton. — Music and Musicians . . . 619
CHAPTER LXX I.
Queen's Weather. —
The Coaching Meets. The Flower Shows. —
Simplicity of English —
Manners. —
Eccentricity and Excellence. —
Foreigners and English Society. The —
London Theatres. —
Ellen Terry. Mr. Wilson Barrett. —English Comedy Writers. —
—In the Parks. —
Rotten Low. —
Some Noble Houses in London. A Town of Men. —
— Political Influence. — The Clubs 628
CHAPTER LXXII.
The — A Historic Avenue. — The City ami Country Types. — English Love for
Strand.
Nature. — The Fanner and His Troubles. — Rural Beauty Warwickshire and in
Derbyshire. — The Shakespeare Festival 1879. — Stratford. — Birmingham, the

in
••Toy Shop of Europe" 635
CHAPTER LXXIII.
The Lake Country.— The Home of Poets and Essayists. Scotland. Glasgow, — — its
Commerce and its Antiquities. —

The Great Northern Seaport. Edinburgh and — its
Memorials. —
The Home of Burns «42
CONTENTS. 13
Tagb
CHAPTER LXXIV.
Scotland and Ireland.— The Scotch Highlands. — Scenes of Scott's Stories and Burns's
Poems. —
Balmoral.— Over to Belfast. — The Irish Land League. — Imprisonment
of Parnell and his Partisans. — The Crimes Act and Causes. — Land League
its A.
Mass Meeting. — The Wild and Savage Peasantry 648
CHAPTER LXXV.
Dublin and Chief Features.
its — -The Irish Climate. — Trinity College. —'The Environs
of the Irish Capital. — The Great Western Gateways, Queenstown and Liverpool . G58
CHAPTER LXXVI.
Lord Beaconsfield. —
Mr. Gladstone. —-Two Careers Entirely Different in Character,
Purpose, and Result. — Personal Description of the two Great Premiers. — Imperial
— The — Mr. —-The
Policy.
of the South.
Eastern Question in 1875.
— Servia, Herzegovina, Bosnia, and Montenegro. ....
Gladstone's Attitude. Slavs
663
CHAPTER LXXVIE
— An — Among —
A Day with a Voivoda.
Experience.
Insurgent Leader.
— Turk and Slav. —-Ljubibratic and his Men ......
the Rocks. A Picturesque
o'7.">
CHAPTER LXXVIII.
The Montenegrins. — The Inhabitants of the Black Mountain. —
An Unconquered
Race. — Among the Rocks.. — The Implacable Enemies of the Turks. —
A Valiant
Little Army. —-The Montenegrin Women. —-The Old Prince-Bishops of Montenegro, 688
CHAPTER LXXIX.
Prince Nicholas of Montenegro. — The Outpost of Russia. — The Montenegrin Capital. —
Battle with the Turks. -
— Legends of Tsernagora 097
CHAPTER LXXX.
Danubian Days. — Hungarians
and Slavs. — A Turkish Fortress. — The Footprints of
Trajan.— Orsova the Fair. — Gypsies. — Animals in the East. — Lower Hungary and
Peculiar Features. — Wayside Inns along the Danube. — The Harvesters Coming
its
Home at Eventide. — Gypsies at Drenkova. — Through the Iron Gates

•
. . . 702
CHAPTER LXXXI.
A Journey through Roumania in — A Khan. — Its Advantages and
War Time. Disadvan-
tages. — Primitive Life of the Villagers. — On the Great Plains. — The Water Wells.
— The Approaches to Bucharest. — Roumanian Legends. — The Frontier of Europe
— French Influence in Roumania. — Bucharest and New Orleans .... 716
CHAPTER LXXXII.
Notes on Bucharest. — Streets and Street Types. — The AVallachian Soldiers. — Con-
scripted Peasantry. — Roumanian Independence. — Priests and Churches . . . 723
—A
14 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER LXXXIII.
The Garden of Hercstrou. — Gypsy Music. — Roumanian Amusements. — Prince Gorts-
chakoff at — General Ignatieff. — Roumanian Houses. — Ploiesei. —
Bucharest.
Funeral in Roumania. — A Bit of History. — A Libera] Constitution. — King Charles.
— The Upgrowth of Literature 730
CHAPTER LXXXIV.
The Early Roumanians — The Language. Greek Plays. —
Agriculture. The Minor — —
—
Towns of Roumania.
Manners. —
Jassy.
Roumanian Monasteries
—
..........
—
On the Bessarabian Frontier. Galatz. National —
739
CHAPTER LXXXV.
With the Russians in Bulgaria. — On
the Danube. Simnitza. — —
The Extemporaneous
Imperial Head-quarters. — The Early Campaign in Bulgaria. —
Singing of the Rus-
sian Troops. —
Sistova. — -Bulgarian Men. —
The Farmers. —
Manners of the Russian
Army Officers. — The Grand Duke Nicholas. —
The Elder Skobeleff. The Russian —
Emperor in the Field 748
CHAPTER LXXXVI.
General Radetzky. —
-Russians on the March.- -Infantry Men. — Cossacks. — — Dragimiroff.
—In Camp. —
Reception of the Liberating Russians by the Bulgarians. — Enthusiasm
of the Women and Children. —
Welcome by the Monks and Priests. — The Defile
beside the Yantra. —The — Triumphal Procession. —The Grand
Arrival atTirnova.
Duke Nicholas in Church. — The Picturesque City on the Yantra. — The Greek Ladies.
— Fugitives from Eski Zaghra . 756
CHAPTER LXXXVII.
Previous Insurrection in Bulgaria. — A Retrospect. — Servia's Aid Bulgaria. — Russian to
Agents. —
The Triple Alliance. — Rustchuk, Defence. — Turkish Transports.
its
The Road to the Balkans. — Gabrova. —-Turkish Time.-—-Bulgarian Schools and

their Varying Fortunes. — Renegades. —-The Passes of the Balkans. — Prince Tser-
teleff.— The ShipkaPass. — Mount Nicholas. — Suleiman Pasha and Radetzky
St. . 763
CHAPTER LXXXV II I.
The Mutilation of the RussianWounded. —

A Convent of Women near Gabrova, and
Bulgarian Monasteries.— Through the Balkans. —
Kezanlik. —-Rose Culture and the
E Gardens. —
Eski Zaghra and the Massacre. —
The Malice of Suleiman Pasha.
—
Bulgarians ...............
The Vengeance of the Agas. —The Bulgarian Army. —The National Life of the
771
CHAPTER LXXXIX.
Plevna and its Influence on the Russian Campaign. — The Roumanians. — Their Valor
— Osman Pasha. — The Despair of Skobeleff. — Across the Balkans. —
in the Field.
The Descent upon Constantinople. — Hostility of England Russian Designs. to
The Berlin Congress. — Result. — The Partition of South-eastern Europe
Its . . 779
——
CONTENTS. 15
CHAFrER XC.
Munich in its Stony Plain by the Isar. —
The Cold Greek Architecture of the Bavarian
Capital. —The Monarchs of Bavaria. —
The Present King Louis. An Eccentric—
Sovereign. — Wagner and Bayreuth. —
Gambrinus in Munich 792
CHAPTER XCI.
The Passion-Play at Ober-Ammergau. —
The Theatre of the Passion. Old Miracle —
Plays. — The Chorus at Ober-Ammergau. —
Bavarian Wood-carvers as Actors.
The Personator of the Saviour. Caiaphas. — —
The Figures of Peter and Judas.
The Women Interpreters of the Passion. —
The Departure from Bethany, and the
Last Supper. —
Comments of a Distinguished American Actor. —
The Scourging and
the Crown of Thorns. —
The Despair of Judas. —
Effective Portrayal of the Judg-
ment and Crucifixion. — A Beautiful, Holy, and Noble Dramatic Sketch of the Most
Wonderful Life and Death 796
CHAPTER XCII.
Vienna, where the East meets the West. — The Emperor of Austria. — His Simple Life.
— The Slavs and Hungarians. — Berlin and Bismarck. — The Aged German Emperor.
— Startling Progress of German Industry. — The Thrones of the North. — Nihilism
and Socialism. — Colonial Schemes. — Possible Absorption of the Small Countries
of Europe .812
CHAPTER XCIII.
The Storm of Europe Diverted into — How Great Britain was Drawn
Africa. into
Egyptian Affairs. —
The Revolt of Arabi. — Rise of El Mahdi. — Gordon
to the
Rescue. —
The Long Siege of Khartoum. —
Fall of the Soudanese Stronghold and
Reported Death of Gordon. —
The Recall of Wolseley 821
CHAPTER XCIV.
The Death of Victor Hugo. — The Greatest European Man of Letters since Goethe.—
Napoleon III. 's Irreconcilable Foe. — His Obsequies. — The Pantheon Secularized.
— In State Beneath the Arch of Triumph. —A Vast Procession. —The Demon-
stration of the French People 836
CHAPTER XCV.
Laborers for Peace. —-The New Territories given to European Powers by the Congo
Conference. — Impossibility
of Permanent Peace. —Believers in Arbitration. M. —
De Lesseps and Mr. Stanley. —
The United States of Europe. Victor Hugo's —
Dream. —
Republican Sentiment. —
The Strengthening of the French Republic.
Will Storm and Calm Forever Alternate in Europe? 842
.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
The Imperial Family ......

Napoleon III.'s Guests in the Champ de Mars Pavilion
Pagf
23
27
Episode of the Coup d'Etat

A Parisian Journalist in Prison
.....
The French Emperor and Empress at Compiegne
....
.
35
47
51
Proclaiming the Spanish Republic
The Escurial, near Madrid .....
Fighting at a Barricade in Valencia
50
CI
73
Mountaineers Going
Wedding of Alfonso XII.
Castelar at Home
.....
Home
.......
after the Siege . 77
95
99
Bull-fight before the King and Queen 105
'['lie Bull has the best of
Alcazar ami Walls of Toledo
it
..... 107
117
The Puerta
A Patio in Seville
del Sol
.......
....
123
127
Beggars at the Cathedral Door
Tha Murder of Victor Noir
Rochefort and the Working-men
.....
ridden down
129
183
136
Gambetta
Tlie Speech
Thiers in
in the
from the Throne
the Tribune
....
Baudin Prosecution
...... 141
145
The Man of Destiny on the Tuileries Terrace 153
Dispersing a Parisian Riot .....

Police breaking up a Republican Meeting
Head-quarters of Napoleon at Chalons .

161
163
207
The End of the Empire. Assault by Police on Citizei in tl le Boulev xrd 1 223
The Imperial Police protected by the Republican Gua rd 227
The President of the Corps Legislatif watching the Inv 231
Invasion of the Corps Legislatif, Sept. 4, 1S70 2:3:;
The Flight of the Empress 237

Napoleon III. Prisoner at Wilhelmshohe 259
French Guard Mobile in the Camp of St. Maur 268
Camp of the French Marines at St. Vitry
Running away from the Siege .... 301
303
Up
perial Guard
the Hill at Villiers
.......
The old and New Regime. Republican National Gu rd lutin the Ren of tl
339
343
Tlie Priests' Ambulance Corps at the Battle of Champ :;n
Episode in the Siege of Paris. No more Bread . 345
The French Troops abandoning
Arrest of a Supposed Spy
The Wall of Buzenval.
.....
the Plateau at
Episode of the Siegr of Paris

Avron 359
3G7
3(>9
Garibaldi at Bordeaux
Victor Hugo at Bordeaux ..... 17
?87
391
.
18 /, fS T Oh' II. A 1 'N 77.'. 1 TIOXS.

Page
The Last Benediction of Pope Pius IX. 409
Victor Emmanuel and Prince Humbert
....
....
Attendants and Officials at the Vatican
at the Quirinal . 411
417
Tin' Pope receives a Visitor ......

Pope Leo XIII. in his Private Cabinet 418
419
Funeral of Charles Hugo

Communist Troops going
......
Tin' Top of Montmartre, where the Communist Cannon
to the.... Front
won.' installed 427
429
433
Thiers and McMahnn meeting at Longchanips 435
Death of Flourens 43!)
The Rue Perronet at Neuilly 441

Episode of the Commune. Gen. La Cecilia reviewing his roops 449
Communist Funeral at Night . .....

Terrace at Mendon, occupied by Versailles Troops
Episode of the Commune. The Fallen Caesar. The Coin Von. loin
4.-.:)
461
470
Fac-simile of a Title-page 471
The Prisoners returning from Germany 489
Children of the Communist Prisoners eating Soup with th< "orsailles Soldie 493
Burning of the Hotel de Ville

The Last Placard of the Commune
.....
Se.ne from the Commune. The Barricades of the Rue d
....
\ennes 495
501
618
Sunday Market in Petticoat Lane
The Scotch Volunteers
On
al
the Sands at Brighton

....
......
Brighton
523
529
530
Types of English Lower Classes
Guardians of the Tower
Boat-race on the Thames
......
......
:,3.-.
538
543
Departure of the Prince of Wales for India
House of Comi
Interior of the -
Recent Dynamite Explosions at the House of Commons

.... . 564
7.7;;
Mass-Meeting on Trafalgar Square .... in I ndon

601
......
Lord Mayor's Day. Sailors in Procession
Dinner with the Lord Mayor
The Thames, from the Top of St. Paul's. Westminster Ps lee ill the Distance
603
60S
G07
Archbishop Manning preaching Temperance . 608
At the Punch and Judy Show
Saturday Night in Workman's Quarter
Salvation Army
.... 611
613
ms
The Queen's Carriage . 620
The Queen conferring the Order of Knighthood 621
On the Road to Epsom

Fox-hunting in England
Stopping the Hunting
....... 624
625
6.".7
Deer-stalking in the Highlands 647

A Land League Mass-Meeting 655
A Familiar Irish Scene 656
The Western Gateway. The Landing Stage at Liverpool 0(!1
Montenegrins on the Watch 689
Hungarian Types ........

The Russians crossing the Danube in Front of Sistova
........
. 703
717.
Roumanian Types
....
Bulgarians defending a Mountain Pass
77.1
770
Episode of the Siege of Plevna
Signing the Treaty of San Stefano .... 781
7.S7.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 1!)
The Berlin Congress ........ 787

The Eadziwill Palate, in
Constantinople and the Islands .....
which the Berlin Congress was held
Palace of the Sultan at Constantinople....

788
7.S!)
790
Embarkation of Troops for Egypt 830
Departure of Troops for Egypt 833
The End of a Romance. Napoleon III. on his Death-bed 847
;
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER ONE.
The Volcanic Shimmer. — Paris 1867. — The Second Empire at the Height
in Glory. — The
oi" its
" Crowning of the Edifice." — The Festival of Peace. — The " Prophecy of Evil." — Napoleon
receives Distinguished Guests. — Attempted Assassination of Alexander the Second. The Sultan -
in Paris. — The Luxembourg Panic. — The Hidden Forces at Work.
THE who climbs

traveller the sum-
mit of Vesuvius on a day wheu the
to Queen city to offer their tribute of praise
and admiration, and to joiu in the cele-
great volcano is apparently at perfect bration of a festival of peace. To the cas-

rest, and at a period wheu no manifesta- ual observer the beautiful French capital
tions of its wrath are expected, will ob- in this year of splendor and gayety at first
serve, as he looks down into the vast .seemed to offer a perfect example of the
bowl of the crater, the delicate shimmer wise results of sound administration and
caused by rising heat. The transparent willing devotion to the arts of peace
air is tremulous, and although the scene but, in looking attentively, day by day,
upon which the visitor gazes from this upon the scene, it was easy to discover —
strange mountain is one of exquisite it was impossible in fact not to see —
beauty and tranquillity, he cannot restrain the menacing volcanic shimmer, which
the feeling of foreboding, as he thinks indicated a coming outbreak of forces too
of the tremor in the atmosphere. It is long repressed, too certain to break forth
the perpetual menace of the hidden forces, in wild disaster.
ready to break forth, overturning' all the The Second Empire in Fiance had
barriers interposed between themselves passeil into a proverb. It was no longer
and liberty ; and, in the mad rush of their the fashion to speak of its creation as
escape, likely to transform the smiling a crime. The passionate pages of
landscapes, historic villages, and teem- Kinglake, the stinging denunciations of
ing cities, into a chaos not unlike the Hugo, were almost considered as partisan
primal one. and ungenerous. The French people
In Paris, in 1867, the Secoud Empire were condemned, as the punishment for
had reached the height of its glory and their culpable supineuess, day by day to
renown. From all corners of the world, hear it said of themselves that they were
from the most brilliant Oriental capitals, unfit for self-government, and that the
from northern cities, from Asia and from Empire had been forthem an unmixed
America, the chiefs of State and the blessing. It impresses one now, half a
celebrities of the moment came to the generation after these last brilliant
22 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
moments of the Second Empire, curi- ment of Europe upon their wisdom in
ously, toremember that from the United taking off some few of the screws.
States came a great part of the moral Each foreign Slate vied with the other
support Napoleon III.
accorded to : in its endeavors to be agreeable and
not only did he in grouping
succeed flattering to the Empire. A Parisian
about him potentates, who, fifteen years was perhaps pardonable at this time for
before, had considered him the most his supposition that Paris was the sun
wretched of parvenus; not only did he around which the society of the world
invite to his Court, and instal in revolved. Paris fashions, Paris comic
his palace of the Tuileries, the Czar music, and Parisian bric-a-brac, were
of all the Russias, and the Sultan of famous throughout Europe, and had
Turkey; but he wooed from the ad- made their way into the remotest
miring bosoms of the I'aii- Republi- regions of Asia, Africa, and America.
cans of the West a homage which they It is true, that when one turned to the
would never have paid to a parvenu at. soberer domains of literature and high
home. art,it was found that (lie French Empire
At this particular time the Repub- had fostered (he production of little or
licans in France were half inclined to nothing within them. The great artists
lower their bucklers for a while, and to wen' not to be found at I he Court.
pause in their attacks upon the govern- They were voluntary or involuntary
ment which they had so long detested, exiles. The theatre had become so
irresolute as they were in presence of frivolous that it was the scandal of
the numerous experiments and reforms Europe, and among the few painters of
so loudly announced by the Imperial eminence who basked in the Imperial
agents. The year of the great " Expo- sunshine were many who did not hesi-
sition" was ushered in with a. wonderful tate to satirize, in the most bitter man-
flourish of trumpets by the Imperial ner, the regime under which they lived.
ministry. It was said and printed, for The social corruption had reached such
the first time since the i-uup d'Etat, that a height, that it could be paralleled
the hour for a cessation of repressive only by the corruption which was no
measures had arrived ; that the long longer concealed in politics. Paris was
period of personal government, rendered with a throng of adventurers, or
filled
necessary by the so-called anarchy of newly enriched people, aristocratic in

1848, had come to an end. The income, though not in breeding. They
"crowning of the edifice," as the came from everywhere, and at the first
political jargon of the moment had it, whiff of smoke of the war in 1S70 they
was soon to take place. If one could disappeared like demons in a pantomime.
credit the assertions of all who were Few of them have returned. They
interested in the support of the Imperial seemed to belong to the especial epoch
dynasty France the one wish of the
in 1
, which closed with the fall of the Empire ;
Emperor was to give with liberal hand to have had their day as certain Hies
as much freedom to his long-oppressed have theirs, and at its close to have
people as they could conveniently digest. finished their existence.
He and his were to be the judges of the However various might have been the
quantities of liberty to be dispensed, judgments passed upon the Empire and
and they confidently invited the judg- the Emperor, there was no variance of
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 23
opinion as to the Exposition. It was it had really lost by the coup d'Etat; and
a grand festival of art and industry, it kept up this policy faithfully until it
upon which the Imperial party had spent was no longer of any service.
1
\ ^5C ^
THK IMPERIAL FAMILY.
much time and labor. The Empire The Exposition of 18(57 was imagined
thoroughly understood the science of purely as a diversion. In 18G5 the
diversions. It began by giving the Empire had already begun to decline,
public splendid shows, military reviews, The formidable Republican Opposition
and the glitter of foreign expeditious, grouped against it as long ago as l.s.">7
hoping to divert its attention from what had at last become extremely powerful,
24 EUROPE r.V STORM AND CALM.
and in 1804 and 1865 was decidedly in Schleswig-Holsteiu, and the brisk and
aggressive. This opposition was led by astounding campaign which culminated
politicians of the experience and impor- in the defeat of Austria at Sadowa in
tance of Thiers, Berryer, Lanjuinais, L8GG,had one ji>t shaken French pres-
Jules Favre, Ernest Picard, Jules Simon, tige but Napoleon III. knew better.
;
Garnier-Pages, and Pelletan. Gam- He was wiser than the people whom he
betta's voice had not yet been heard had grouped around him. The insin-
outsidc the cafes of the Latin Quarter, cere, the corrupt, persisted in their
or the narrow boundaries of the court- theory that would only have
France
room. Emile Ollivier was a prominent to put forth an atom of her ancient
figure in this opposition to the govern- strength to maintain her historic influ-
ment and the majority in the Chamber, ence. and to reduce to their proper pro-
He, like one or two other politicians portions the newly arisen pretensions of
who were Republican in name, listened Prussia. In the long years of his cap-
to the specious promises of the Imperi- tivity the Emperor had made careful
alists, and allowed himself to be won studies in social and political science,
over to their cause of pretended liberal and he doubtless realized that the time
reform. Napoleon had saiil that " the had come for the unification of the ho-
Empirc was peace," at the outset of his mogeneous peoples in the numerous
Imperial career; hut. he had until this States ofGermany. S>o, too, it is fair
year's first mouths been contradicting to suppose that he foresaw Italian
himself by maintaining, against even unification; and as both these were,

the opinion of the more enlightened of from the selfish political stand-point,
his own party, the shattered remnants dangers and menaces to thi' greatness
of the French expedition in Mexico, and of Fiance, perhaps he dreamed of sud-

was daily expecting to hear news of the deiily checking them. lie that as it
disaster which could no longer be avoided may, the Exposition period was grate-
there. The immense and cordial wel- fully recognized by all nations as a
come' accorded to the Exhibition when it, breathing-space in a time of storm
opened, in the spring of 18G7, was a upon which Europe had entered; and
veritablegodsend to the Empire. It none wen- more grateful in their recog
undoubtedly put, hack the clock of fate nitiou than the Prussians, who had fully
by many hours. believed that Prance would not, submit

Put, the clock of fate was not lo be quietly to the results of Sadowa,.
stopped, nor yet cracked or broken. It, So Europeans and Americans alike
went on with remorseless " tick," and it forgot, or wilfully ignored, the volcanic
n:h with greater vexation and restless- shimmer, and united in the grand fes-
ness than he hail manifested at any tival of pleasure, feasting the senses,
previous time in his career that the and most, of all upon the
the attention,
Emperor begau his large and splendid wonders spread before them in the most
seiies of festivals, lie had been from beautiful capital of the "Western World.
his youth too acute an observer of polit- The Imperial commission which directed
ieal indications not have to perceived the Exhibition did its work with skill and
that, the position of Prance in Europe energy, and tilled the Champ de Mars
had greatly changed. It was the fash- with a grand epitome of European
ion at his Court to deny that the events material progress. It was remarked
EUROPE AV STORM AND CALM. 25
that Germany had but Little of all indus- at the Tuileries. As these guests ar-
trial character to show, and the sprightly rived one by one, they were welcomed
chroniclers for the small journals of the with all the splendors befitting their
boulevard expended their wit upon the exalted stations. The liberal journals,
mammoth cannon which tilled the (un- which had indulged in sinister prophe-
man section of the Exhibition Palace, cies that the parvenu Emperor could not
little realizing that a few years after- bring to his side the legitimate sover-
wards similar cannon would frown upon eigns of Europe, acknowl-
gracefully
Paris from the hills environing her. In edged their and joined in the
error,
order and arrangement the Exhibition general enthusiasm. Napoleon affected
was perhaps superior to any of its a slightly democratic demeanor, while
successors, not excepting the mammoth carefully maintaining with relation to
one held in Philadelphia in 187G. his guests all the etiquette to which they
The international craze was just begin- attached so much importance, and of
ning in 1867. The current of travel which the Empress Eugenie was always
from America had already begun, and such a passionate devotee.
European prices had not yet assumed that No doubt the visit of the Emperor
vertiginous upward course which they Alexander II. of Russia would have in
have latterly taken and maintained. less dangerous times been productive of
The trans-Atlantic stranger, with his a certain current of opinion in France
new found Paris the paradise
fortune, favorable to the maintenance of the Em-
of cheapness and luxury. Ricli Rus- pire there. The spectacle of the Czar of
sians, innumerable Germans of medium all the Russias riding in the same car-
fortune, Turks and Austrians, Greeks riage with Napoleon III., and accepting
and Hebrews. Scandinavians and Anglo- his hospitality, was not without its weight.
Saxons, nightly thronged the newly It seemed as if the man who had so
ornamented boulevards. Such crowds long been called an adventurer had at

have never been seen in Paris since. last enrolled himself in the society to
In those days the electric light was which he had always desired to belong.
in its infancy, and few large cities Alexander II. of Kussia had just en-
had had the courage to make experi- tered upon his repressive policy in Poland
ments with it. But Imperial Paris took when he made his visit to Paris, and he
it, used it generously, and perhaps was perhaps a little surprised, on arriv-
hoped that the volcanic shimmer would ing in the court-yard of the Tuileries, to
be less perceptible beneath its artificial be saluted with a sonorous "Vive la
glare. The pageants of the Exhibition Pelogne, Monsieur!" which came from
were very numerous, and some of them the lips of that stanch republican Mon-
willbe famous in history. Paris was sieur Floquet, who subsequently became
filled with crack troops, well drilled, one of the chief municipal authorities of
well dressed, proud of the duties con- the French capital. In February of
stantly given them, and with their 1SG7 the Russian Emperor had sup-
national vanity yet untarnished by any pressed the Polish Council of State, aud
of those sad reverses which they were had given the public instruction of the
called to suffer a little later. The Im- country into the hands of Russian authori-
perial Court was at Compiegne, but ties. This was preliminary to the great
Napoleon first received his royal guests measure which he took in 18G8, when by
2(5 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
an ukase he suppressed the Kingdom of now and then embarrassing

seriously
Poland, and forbade Polish ladies and innocent whose notions of
strangers,
gentlemen to wear their national cos- free speech were brought from a less
tumes. Infinite precautions were taken exhausted atmosphere. If two people
1>3
T
the authorities of the French Empire began a discussion on the street the
against any attempts upon the lives of third man who was sure to come up and
the visiting sovereigns; but the legions listen was either a sergent de ville, as the
of police which swarmed in the city policemen were called in those days, or
were not sufficient to protect the Czar was a private detective. Any group of
Alexander from an attempted assassina- three, four, or live persons, standing to
tion. I chanced to be close to the Im- discuss and appearing to lie deeply in-
perial carriage when the fanatic Bere- terested in conversation in any street
zowski, on the day of the review of the door-way of publicbuilding or in a square,
Dth of June in the Bois de Boulogne, fired was immediately requested to " move
a pistol at Alexander's head. There was on." Any refusal to obey would have
an immense press of people returning been followed by arrest, and any offence
from the review, and much crowding and against the Imperial notions of order
confusion were caused by the sudden was qualified as criminal.
arrival of a great body of cavalry which The would-be assassin of the Emperor
was making its way at a vigorous trot out of Russia was insane with passion, or he
of the wood. In common with thou- would not have dreamed of attempting
sands of others I was pressed forward the life of a. sovereign in a town so filled
to the main avenue, along which the Em- with private spies and police-officers as
peror <>f Russia was just returning. I Paris. The Sultan of Turkey, Abdul
heard a pistol shot, and then an im- Aziz, who afterwards had so tragic an
mense "Ah!" such as only a Latin end, was highly gratified at the mas-
crowd can utter; and next, much to my terly mannerin which he was surrounded
surprise, saw the carriage tilled with

I by a net-work of spies from the moment
ugly-looking fellows in black clothes, who of his arrival to that of his departure.
were doubtless the police agents, with He was the most apprehensive, timid
which the crowds were plentifully inter- creature that I remember ever to have
spersed. seen in public. On one occasion he was
There was no time during the clos- taken through the principal streets in one
ing days of the Second Empire when of the great gala carriages of the time of
T
one could feel that in a miscellaneous Louis XIY ., and his carriage was sur-
assembly of a. dozen persons, unless rounded in the Rue Royale by a crowd
it,was by invitation in a private par- which was quite crazy with curiosity.
lor, there would not lie one or two The Sultan sat cowering in a corner of
police spies. These spies were found this antique vehicle, sweltering in his
everywhere. They infested the cafes. heavy European uniform, loaded down
They and
offered for sale opera-glasses with gold and silver decorations, and
ami peered impertinently
trifling trinkets, looking very much more like a criminal
into travellers' faces. They assumed who had been detected than like the de-
every conceivable disguise, and fre- fender of the faithful and the successor
quently made report on matters which of Soliman the Magnificent.
were not of the slightest consequence, Among the guests of uote who came
EUROPE IN STORM AM) CALM. 27
mw^
NAPOLEON III.'S GUESTS IN THE CHAMP DE MAPS PAVILION.
to Paris in this gala year were two elderly tempting to observe the policy set forth
gentlemen of sober mien, who attracted in the speech in which he abandoned
more attention than the Czar or the Sul- Austria to her fate. He said, With '
tan, and whose visit was of more vital regard to Germany my intention is
significance than that of the above-men- henceforth to observe a policy of neu-

tioned potentates. These two person- trality which, without hindering us now
ages were King William of Prussia, and and then from expressing our sympathies
Bismarck, who had left behind him in Of oni' regrets, leaves us strangers to ques-
Paris years ago, when he had been stations in which our interests are not di-
tioned there as a diplomat, the reputation rectly engaged.' " M. Thiers pointed out,
of a brilliant wit and a cynical and gen- in 18GG, the danger of this indifference
erally successful wire-puller. The Pari- which the Empire desired to manifest.
sian rabble made fun of the shining He said that it was to be feared that
helmet and the white eoat which Bismarck Germany would profit by it. Benedetti,
wore when he mounted his steed to the ambassador to Berlin, who afterwards
attend the review at Longchamps, and became so notorious, at the time of the
many pleasantries were indulged in at declaration of war in 1870, wrote to his
the expense of the venerable Prussian government that in 18GG the simple
king. But the intelligent and cultivated manifestation French sympathies
of
classes were careful to make no jokes would have completely checked the prog-
about the Prussians, and improved to ress of Bismarck and enabled Austria
the utmost their opportunities of cul- to escape the humiliation which she was
tivating pleasant relations with them. called on to suffer shortly afterwards.
Napoleon and his followers had an M. Simon and many other impartial
unbounded confidence in their ability writers on the Imperial policy express
to arrange matters. They fancied that, 7
their opinion that Napoleon III. allowed
with the prestige of the First Empire be- Prussia to aggrandize herself because he
hind it, the Second could manage to hoped to be paid in kind. lie had am-
overawe aggression, even tl gli it might bitious notions as to Rhenish provinces
uot possess the force suddenly to repel and to Belgium which were never des-
it. King William and Bismarck were tined to be realized.
carefully entertained at Compiegne, and The hidden forces in the volcanic
listened with feigned if not with real in- bosom gave one ominous rumble in 1867.
terest to the many political combinations The Empire had just been obliged to
either proposed to them, or hinted at in announce the disastrous end of the Mex-
their presence. The Prussians would ican expedition. It did not (.'are to
certainly have been exacting had they cuter into a. United
struggle with the
not approved of the policy of the Im- States, which at that moment had upon
perial party in France, for it was feeble the Mexican frontier an army large
enough directly to serve their interests. enough to cope with any force that
" France," says M. Simon, • as a neces- Fiance could muster. In presence of
sary consequence of the prodigious in- the Mexican failure, and under pres-
crease of power in Prussia, consequent on sure of the keen criticisms which the
her victory at Sadowa, stepped down directors of French policy received for
from the first rank into the second. the danger in which they had left Maxi-
Napoleon had made a fatal error in at- milian, Napoleon III. looked desperately
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 2<l
about him for some new project likely nation was not to have a war with Ger-
to be popular, and was led, almost be- many simply because it was not to get
fore lie knew it, into imminent danger theLuxembourg Duchy. When this hope
of war with flushed and victorious Ger- vanished in smoke Napoleon III. must
many. He had again begun his cam- have been convinced that be would get
paign in favor of the annexation of nothing in exchange for his abstention
Belgium, and was secretly working it from interference with Prussia in carry-
out before the early summer of 18G7. ing out her scheme for her
elaborate
It was, I fancy, during the visit of the aggrandizement of united Germany.
numerous sovereigns that he at last got When the Luxembourg excitement had
full light ou the question of a rectifica- died away, and the news of Maximil-
tion of French frontiers along the Rhine. ian's execution at Queretaro had ar
He found that this was impossible in a rived, the Imperial party did not make
pacific manner, and so he began negotia- an}" new professions of a desire to accord
tions with the King of Holland, who liberties to the people. But the round
was the Grand Duke of the Duchy of of festivities went on. The Exposition
Luxembourg, to obtain from him for a was where
like a great international city
lixed price the cession of that duchy. all was brightest and most beautiful
that
This was speedily noised abroad, and from fifty different countries met daily.
created the most intense excitement in There were French, and Anglo-Saxon,
Germany, especially in Prussia. There and Dutch, and Viennese, and North
was a veritable alarm throughout France German, and Spanish, and Danish, and
and Germany. For twenty days it Swedish and Russian restaurants, and
seemed as if the year of peace festivals English bars. There were parks filled
might be by a long and
interrupted with imitations of Oriental palaces,
bloody war. To-day it seems impossible Chinese pavilions, Turkish bazaars, and,
that the French Empire should not have in rather incongruous juxtaposition, Ba-
learned, from the manner in which it was varian breweries. There were nob'
treated by Germany on that occasion, its galleries of the history of labor; line
own weakness, and the poor opinion collections of works of art a grand ex-
;
that its antagonists had of it. Hut so hibit of machinery and of materials
much pains had been taken to prevent suitable for application to the liberal
anything like free discussions in the arts and there was a great park divided
;
Chambers that the truth did notcome to into four quarters, the French and Bel-
the surface, and the public was informed gian, German, English, and Oriental.
by the Minister of Public' Affairs that Here were German and Scandinavian
the King of Holland, as Grand Duke of houses, Russian cabins, and Cossack
Luxembourg, and not the Imperial gov- teuts, Greek churches and Turkish
ernment of France, had raised the Lux- mosques. Indian pagodas ami Siamese
embourg question, and that (lie Duchy palaces,and buildings tilled with models
would not be ceded to Fiance, because of everything from the Roman cata-
of conditions which seemed unlikely to combs to the sanitary collect ions of
be fulfilled. As a clever French writer the American civil war. By night, in
has said, the public learned, from the the soft summer climate of northern
reading of debates on the question in France, a visit to the Exhibition was
foreign parliaments, that the French like a trip to fairy-land. The music, of
30 EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM.
Strauss and Gunglfilled the air. There were anxious to throw off. He forgot,
was everything which could charm the amid the varied enchantments of Paris,
eye, and the visitor who journeyed in contemplating the vast municipal im-
homeward along the silent, streets of provements, in reading the announce-

the capital late at night after a prome- ments of the opening of new parks and
nade through the Exhibition found it gardens, and the schemes for an im-
difficult to persuade himself that he was proved condition of the working-class,
living under a despotic government, — he forgot the volcanic shimmer.
and one which the people of the country
CHAPTER TWO.
The Imperial Court at Compiegne. — —
An Historic City. Luxury and Splendor. Napoleon III. '3 —
Courtship. — The Counlcss of Montijo. —
What an Imperial Hunting-Party Cost. Aping the —
First Empire.— — —
The Imperial Family. Parvenus and Princes. The Programme of the Season
at Compiegne. — How the Guests were Received. — The Imperial Theatre. — What the People
Paid — Prince Napoleon. — Princess Clothilde.
for.
this splendid year, Compiegne, as Joan of Arc was taken by an archer

INwell as Palis, was at the height of of Picardy, disarmed and carried to the
its magnificence. Compiegne might al- head-quarters of Magny, where she was
most have been called a second French literally sold at auction. She was at
capital, for from the earl)' days of the last bought by John of Luxembourg,
Second Empire it had been the favorite who sold her to the English for 10,000
resort of the adroit and brilliant Empress, livres(francs) cash, and a pension of
and it was there that many of the events 300 livres. Compiegne is also full of
most important in the history of the Em- memories of La Valliere, Madame Ue
pire had their origin. The pretty and Montcspan, and Louis the Well-Beloved,
interesting old town, on the borders of who had a nest for his famous Pompa-
the noble wood, had for many centuries dour in the shades of the park. The
been a favorite resort for French sov- petit chdteau, as it was called, where the
ereigns. The local historians even say Pompadour lived, was demolished at the
that it won the affection of Clovis ; but, time of the great revolution.
without going back so far as this ancient Napoleon I. was very fond of Com-
sovereign, we French histoiy
find in piegne, and in the freshness of his devo-
plenty of romance, tragedy, and comedy r
tion to Maria Louisa constructed there
connected with Compiegue. The valor the famous " Cradle," copied from that
of the inhabitants of the town decided of the park at Schoenbrunn. In Louis
the victory of Bovines, which is one of Philippe's day the Court occasionally
the most glorious in The
French annals. had its seasons of gayety at Compiegue,
"Maiden's Tower," a part of the ruin of and reviews were hell there, at which
the Porte du Vieux Pont, commemorates the young princes, who had been so
the heroic maid of Orleans, who was prominent in the conquest of Algeria,
taken near that place, in Compiegne, on inspected the troops. It is said that
the 24th of May, 1430. There is an in- Louis Philippe used to drive out to the
scription, scarcely complimentary to the reviews in a huge carryall with a four-
English, on this door, and in it occurs in-hand, which he was very fond of man-
the famous line so often quoted by French aging. At was the boy who
his side
editors when they have found the policy is to-day the Comte l)e Paris, and some-
of France antagonized by England, — times the Queen and the young Duchess
de Montpensier accompanied him. The
" Tous ceux-la d'Albion u'ont fait le bien old King used to drive down the line of
jamais." troops, saluted by cheers. The last of
these reviews at Compiegne was held in legitimate leader of French society. This
is 17. Nothing was more picturesque lady, who played such an important part
than the multitude of tents, of booths, in the career of Napoleon III., was. ac-
of merchants and mountebanks, which cording to the Imperialist authorities, de-
sprang up under the hills of the forest, scended from two noble families of Spain
on the days preceding the reviews, and and England. Her father, tin Count of 1
to which the Parisians Hocked by hun- Montijo, claimed a long descent from
dreds of thousands. For a short time Spanish noblemen, who were celebrated
after the Revolution of 1848 the forest in the wars and politics of their native
was opened to the public, and the grocer, laud, and among them the Count of
the butcher, and the candlestick-maker, Telia, who got his nobility at the cud of
popped their nuns at the royal stags and the fifteenth century from Ferdinand and
the scudding hares, which had hereto- Isabella, for the bravery which lie dis-
fore been prev for the guns of the no- played before Granada. The mother of
hilitv alone. Mdlle. de Montijo was a descendant of
The chase France has always been
in a Scotch family, driven out of Scotland
an aristocratic amusement. The middle at the fall of the Stuarts, and was the
class seems to have but small liking for daughter of an English business-man
it; and as the working-people have nev- named Fitz-Patriclc, who was long Brit-
er been allowed to keep weapons of their ish Consul in Spain, and who seems to
own, they have naturally acquired but have laid but little stress upon an aristo-
small skill in shooting. It was but a cratic lineage.

little time after the coup tVEtat that The Countess of .Montijo and her
Napoleon III. made his appearance at daughter were well known in London,
Compiegne, ami began to give hunting- Madrid, and Berlin, where they made
parlies there, which were soon noted long sojourns before they appeared in
throughout Europe for their magnificence, France, where their favorite residence
for the excellence of the banquets, and was Fontainebleau. The beauty of the
the torch-light fi'tes connected with them, daughter was so remarkable that in
and for the great numbers of beautiful 1850 and 1851 she was the observed of
ladies who were gathered at the newly all observers at the fetes of the Elys6e.
established court. Mdlle. Eugenie de At Compiegne she conducted herself
Montijo, who was soon to become the with great prudence in the midst of a
Empress of the French, had been very corrupt Court, where she was sur-
promiuent in the organization of the fes- rounded with all kinds of jealousy and
tivities at the Elvsce Palace in Paris, envy; and, when the Emperor came to
and society soon remarked that she was declare his passion, she referred him
the leading spirit at Compiegne. The with much dignity and sweetness to her
first hunting-season under the Empire mother, who she feared would never
bronchi Mdlle de Montijo and her moth- consent to the union because of the ex-
er very often before the French public, alted station of the suitor, and because
The young beauty scandalized the chate- she felt that he ought to make a more
laines of the neighborhood by galloping brilliant alliance some one of the
with
about with the Emperor at all hours of noble families of Europe. The gossips,
the day and evening, but no one imag- fall of the Empire, say that the
since the
incd that she was likely to become the Emperor's declaration was brought on
EUROPE IX STORM AXD CALM. 33
by a somewhat comical incident. They cynical remarks. lie had some sup-
relate that returning from the chase one porters like M. Dupin, who said boldly
evening with Millie, tie Montijo, the Em- that the Emperor had done perfectly
peror ventured to present himself at the right engaging himself to marry a
in
door of her private room and to linger person who

pleased him, and not allow-
there for a moment whereupon he was ; ing himself to be snatched up by some
driven out without ceremony, and, the German princess with huge feet. When
story adds, with one or two vigorous Napoleon III. got his council of ministers
blows from a riding- whip. This, it was together and announced his projected
said, confirmed his already decided marriage there were numerous objec-
opinion as to the unimpeachable virtue tions, politely but firmly made. The
of the young countess ; and it was not Emperor met them all in the most per-
long before he talked of marriage. He emptory fashion, saying, "There arc no
wrote a mother of the
letter to the objections to be made, gentlemen, and
adored one, and the good lady, after no discussion is to be begun on this
having shown this precious document to matter. The marriage is decided upon,
all her intimate friends, allowed herself and I am decided to carry it out." There
to be convinced, and the engagement was a ripple of laughter in the European*
was soon announced to the company Courts when the Emperor said, in his
gathered at Compiegne. speech at the Tuilerics, in 1853, that the
There was a great outpouring of union he was about to contract was not
scandal as soou as this announcement exactly in accordance with the con-
was made. The elder Countess of ditions of the old traditional policy, but
Montijo had the dissatisfaction of see- that that was its special advantage.
ing her past reviewed without mercy, " France," he said, " had by its succes-
and the Legitimists and other factious of sive revolutions separated itself from the
the monarchical opposition to the new rest of Europe. A sensible government
Emperor gave full vent to their spleen ought to try to get it back into the circle
and their satire. The Prince Napoleon of the old monarchies but that result, ;
was naturally very angry, as it put an according to him, would be more certainly
end to the hopes that he had begun to brought about by a frank and straightfor-
cherish of beiug the legitimate succes- ward policy, by loyalty in transactions,
sor of Napoleon III. Everywhere the than by royal alliances, which created a
coining marriage was alluded to as false sense of security, and substituted
eccentric ; and so wise and careful a family for national interests."
man as M. Thiers even ventured to have This sounded very brave, and there
his little joke at the Emperor's expense. was a little swagger in the following
He said " The Emperor has always
: phrase, which forced even Napoleon's
seemed to me to be a clever man. To- enemies to admit that he at least had
day I see that he has plenty of fore- the courage of his opinions: "When,
sight, for by his marriage he is probably standing in full view of, ancient Europe,
reserving for himself the rank of a Span- one is brought by the force of a new
ish Grandee." This little pleasantry principle up to the height of the ancient
contained a delicate allusion to the inse- dynasties, it is not by trying to give
curity of the Emperor's position. additional age to one's coat of arms,
But Napoleon cared little for these or by seeking by enterprise to get into
a family of kings, that one makes his ordered not to reproduce it. and so the
position there. It is rather in always public remained in ignorance of tin;
remembering one's origin, in preserving Comte de Chambord's protest.

one's own character, and in taking The Empress seemed to have for her
frankly with regard to Europe the posi- chief aim the recstablishment of the
tion of a parvenu, which is a glorious rules of precedence and the Court cos-
title when one arrives at power by the tumes which had prevailed in the reign
tree suffrage of a great people." of Marie Antoinette at Versailles. It is
After the nuptial ceremony, which took even told of her that the Emperor and
place with great pomp at the Cathedral some of his more serious followers had a
of Notre Dame in Paris, the Emperor severe .struggle with her on the occasion
offered to the Duchess de Yicence and of a grand fancy ball, which was given
the Duchess de Lesparre the highest at the Tuileries, to prevent her from
places in the household of the Empress; appealing as a resuscitated Marie An-
lint both these ladies refused to accept toinette. She flattered herself that she
the honors. This was only one of many resembled that unfortunate sovereign,
mortifications which the Imperial couple ami was never weary of talking of her.
had to sutler for some months after their Without any desire at this late day to
union. The Duke de Bassano, who was criticise the society of Compiegne or the
destined to lie the Emperor's Court
cham- Empire, it is difficult to overlook the
berlain, at first said that he would take fact that the company was decidedly
good care that his family had no office mixed. A recent writer says on this
under the Empire. But he was prevailed subject: " At the advent of the Empire
upon, and the Duchess de Bassano soon all the noted parlors were closed, and
took high position among the ladies of polities,as in our day. sowed discord
the Empress's suite. After a time the and disunion everywhere, so that good
Emperor rallied round him some of the society, whether per force or of its
members of the old aristocracy. It was choice, yielded place to a new monde, or
not difficult for him to do this, for he a kind of international demi-monde,
had the [lower of making senators, and which had flocked together from the
of according to the members of the four corners of Europe to be merry at
Senate sums of 15,000, I'd. ()()(), or the Imperial Court. The new society,
30,000 francs, as lie pleased. Dukes, born of the Empire, was indeed most
princes, ami marquises flocked
counts, strange. In it were found marchion-
around " Imperial parvenu ," and
the esses, who were journalists; Italian
naturally brought their wives and daugh- princesses, who had been singers at
ters both to the Tuileries and to Com- Alcazars ; and, from all countries, great
piegne. The Comte de Chambord felt ladies with regard to whose marriages
it his duty to address, from his post of there was something irregular."
exile, a letter to the Legitimist party, It was the fashion at the close of the
in which he administered a severe rebuke Empire to say that the Empress was
to those of his quondam adherents who responsible for a great part of the social
had allowed themselves to be seduced demoralization ; but this was unjust.
by the brilliant promises of the Empire. She made vigorous efforts at times to
But this letter did no good, for the sim- purge the Court of the disreputable
ple reason that the newspapers were personages who hung upon its out-
KUROTE IX STORM AND CALM. 35
skirts, and she was now and then suc- after the opening of the first season at
cessful. Compiegne that an Empire was a costly
The French nation discovered shortly luxury. It would be difficult for Repub-
licans to understand the absolute

liberty which theEmperor had
of bestowing money upon his
favorites, and the license with
which he lavished the national
funds upon the amusements of
the Court. Marshal Magnan,
who had taken a vigorous part in
the coup d'Etat, was made grand
veneur, or the Imperial Master of
the Hounds, with an annual salary
of 100,000 francs. This was more
money than Louis XIV. gave to
Rohan for the same service. Na-
THE FKEMJH EMi'ERUl; AND EMPRESS AT COMPIEGNE.

;
36 EUROrE IN STORM AXD CALM.
poleon treated his favorites with great and Empress wore white feathers in their
liberality, and this Marshal Magnan, be- hats, and no one else at Court was al-
sides his office at Compiegne, had 40,000 lowed to do so. A special kind of hunt-
francs as general-in-ehief of the army of ing- hat was specified for certain days,
Paris; 40,000 francs as a marshal of and no frequenter of the Court would
France ; 30,000 francs as senator ; and have dared in the smallest detail to vent-
C,000 francs as the perquisites of his ure upon originality, as he or she would
position in the Legion of Honor. Count have immediately incurred the Empress's
Edgar Ney, who was also a grand officer displeasure. It was considered a great
in the Imperial chase, received 40,000 favof to be authorized to wear a hunting-
francs yearly, and aristocratic gentle- costume without being a member of the
men whose only labors during the year hunt or of the Emperor's household. The
consisted in keeping the packs of hounds chief officers of the crown, the Court
well furnished, in buying horses in chamberlain, the master of horse, the
England or in Hungary, were paid grand master of ceremonies, the prefects
20,000, 15,000, or 12,000 francs. grooms
of the police, the special of the
Nearly all these gentlemen were also Emperor and Empress, and the ladies
officers in thearmy, and received sala- of the palace and the ladies of the chief
ries of from 12,000 to 40,000 francs for dignitaries, were all enrolled in this mas-
military service. Napoleon gave them culine and feminine hunting-regiment
horses and carriages, free lodgings in all and he or she who was not a good rider
the Imperial palaces, and, in fact, so had but little chance at Court. All this
heaped honors and splendors upon them people, in the midst of their sports and
that the}' would have been base ingrates fantastic promenades in the leafy ave-
if they had not fully espoused his cause. nues of the forest, almost forgot that
The officers of sport were supposed to there was such a city as Taris or a great
pass three months of the year at Ram- nation of thirty-seven or thirty-eight
bouillet, three months at St. Germain, and suffering work-
millions of striving
three months at Fontainebleau, and ers. The Emperor had taken possession
three months at Compiegne, in which of France as his particular prize, and
place they were entitled to lodgings in cared as little for the will of the people
the crown buildings, to firing, lighting, as for the direction of the wind.
washing, etc. The grand veneur even But, although he cherished a supreme
had a mansion specially rented for him disdain for the public will and for public
in Paris, and the expense of this was criticism, he was extremely attentive to
paid by the people. the remarks of foreign Courts, and con-

The Empress spent long mornings in stantly made endeavors to attract to
designing and adopting costumes for the Compiegne some representatives of Eu-
chase. Bottle-green had been the livery ropean royalty and aristocracy. The
adopted by the Imperial Court of Napo- King of Holland, who was a great ad-
leon I. and so bottle-green was adopted
;
mirer of the Empress, was one of the
by the Imperial Court of Napoleon III. first sovereigns to come to Compiegne,
But there were among others magnificent and great was the rejoicing when he ap-
costumes rich with red velvet striped peared. Afterwards there were numer-
with gold. Everything was regulated in ous important visits of sovereigns and ;
the most careful manner. The Emperor amonu; the most noted were those of Vic-
tor Emanuel of Italy, the Emperor of of the garrison, went out to meet the
Austria, the Emperor of Russia, the King Emperor when he arrived at the railway
of Prussia, and Prince Bismarck in 18C7, station and the inspectors of forests,
;
and the King of Portugal. the game- keepers, and the hundred
It was perhaps at the close of the smaller officials, came to pay their re-
Crimean war that the Compiegnes, as spects in the evening.
they were called, were most brilliant. On the next day the guests began to
Enormous sums of money were spent at arrive. It was the custom of the Court
that time upon the hunting-parties, and to have five series of invited guests,
Lord Stratford Canning, Lord Palmer- numbering about ninety in each series.
stou, and other noted Englishmen, were Persons of distinction in literature, or
quite dazzled, although accustomed to science, or politics, on receiving an
luxury at home, by the Imperial displays. invitation to Compiegne, understood
It is said that when Lord Palmerston that they were invited for four days,
visited Compiegne, the daily expenses at without counting the day of arrival or
the Court were 45,000 francs. The Prin- that of departure. The special honor
cess de Metternich, the interesting and was to be invited on the 15th of No-
original wife of the Austrian ambassador, vember, because that was St. Eugenie's-
was intimately associated with all W\c fetes day, and the Empress's f'te. On that
and shows of the Imperial Court. She, occasion there was a comedy given by
like the Empress, was foreign to French amateurs, followed by a grand ball, at
manners but she had what the French
;
which all the Court society, and every-
call the (liable au corps, and she was im- body, of course, brought costly offerings
mensely popular among the jeunesse of flowers. The principal functionaries
doree, who moved in the upper circles of of the town and the department, with
society. Although the conduct of the their families, were invited to dinner,
Empress was never for an instant criti- and the officers of the garrison came in
cised during her whole reign, she was a group to offer the Empress a magnifi-
frequently called upon to witness terri- cent bouquet.
ble scandals at Court. The Imperial family was quite numer-
Compiegne was the fashion. The ous, and when the Emperor arrived at
Emperor and Empress arrived there on Compiegne a goodly number of the
All-Saints-day and left on the evening members of his family came with him.
before the opening of the Chambers in There was the young and pretty Princess
Paris. When the Court arrived, a bat- Anna Murat her brother Prince Joa-
;
talion of infantry of the guards came chim the Princess Mathilde, who had at
;
also, and there was music in the clear- first pouted when she had heard of the
ings in the forest, and all the villas in marriage, but who finally grew reconciled
the neighborhood were filled with rich to it and was later on a very affectionate
foreigners. On the day of the Empe- friend of the Empress and the little
;
no oue dined at the palace

ror's arrival Prince Imperial. King Jerome and the
with him except the officers of his house- prince, his son, came rarely to Com-
hold, who were, as the phrase went, piegne. They could not endure the
" on duty," and the ladies who belonged Empress, who liked them not, and who
to the train of the Empress. The under- did not conceal her dislike, and who,
prefect, the mayor, and all the officers after the rather dubious exploits of Prince
;
Napoleon in the Crimea, made so much Marshal of the palace alone had the right
fun of him that lie cherished a mortal to put his servants in the Imperial livery.
hatred for her. The Emperor was peri- The public called this the " Rachel
odically besieged by needy members of Decree." All the ceremonies of the Im-
his family, — needy because of their ex- perial Court were regulated in the most
aggerated wauts and many a good story
; punctilious fashion. Yet a certain free-
is told of the manner in which he evaded dom of manner always betrayed the fact
undue exactions on the part of his rela- that the Emperor and Empress had led
tives. On one occasion Prince Napo- adventurous and had not been accus-
lives
leon asked for such an enormous sum tomed to the atmosphere of courts, dur-
that the Emperor refused it point-blank, ing the early part of their careers. When
saying that as he had already given him the beautiful and accomplished Princess
2. 300, 000 francs a year he
a capital of Clothilde came, as the wife of Prince
could do nothing more for him. The Napoleon, to Compiegne. the Empress
Prince grew furious, and indulged in Euge'nie undertook to give her some slight
some very strong language, finishing by advice as to her dress and manners. But
the remark, " There is nothing of the the Princess quietly remarked, "You
Emperor about you." — " Oh, yes, there forget, Madam, that I wsisborn at Court,"
is," answered Napoleon III. without which caused a coolness between the
moving a muscle of his countenance ladies some time.
for
"there is his family." This story got The amusements offered the guests in-
abroad, and was the delight of Paris for vited to Compiegne were invariably the
many days. same. On the day of the arrival there
Prince Napoleon was long deeply at- was a grand dinner, a charade, little
tached to Rachel, the noted actress. games, and a " hop." The next day,
Their intimacy was quite public, as the after breakfast, there was hunting either
Prince made no mystery of any of his in the reserve park or in the pheasautry.
liaisons. In 1858 a certain prince, who The Emperor was very fond of shooting-
very likely was not friendly to the Em- matches, to which only ten or twelve
press, sent one of his carriages, which guests were admitted tohonor of
the
was exactly like those used by the Im- partaking this pleasure with him. These
perial pair, to Rachel, that she might go must be either sovereigns or foreign
to Longchamps in it. She accepted this princes staying at the palace, princes of
delicate attention, and the public, recog- the blood, ambassadors, marshals of
nizing the Imperial livery, took Rachel France, and the ministers, and two or
for the Empress and hailed her with The guests
three officers of the chase.
cheers and obsequious bows. When she who were of small consequence went
got home the actress said, "It is vei-y hunting in the forest under the guidance
disagreeable to be taken forthe Empress." of a general guard, or shot at birds with
This pleased Prince Napoleon so much the ladies on the lawn. The Empress
that he could not help repeating it as was very fond of archery, and had a fas-
some slight revenge for the many occa- cinating train of beauties who could draw
sions upon which the Empress had ren- the bow with skill. In the evening after
dered him ridiculous. the grand hunting-match there was usu-
After this little incident a decree was ally a play in the palace theatre. The
published, announcing that the Grand companies of the subsidized theatres of
EUROPE IX STORM AND CAL 1/ 39
Paris were expected .to perform at least ess de Persignv, the Countess Walewska,
once (luring the season at Compiegnc be- the beautiful Countess Le Hon, the young
fore the Emperor and Empress. It is a Duchess de Moray, the Duchess de
striking commentary on of the
the taste Bassano, aud Madame Drouyn de Lhuys,
Imperial Court that the Palais Royal Madame de Saulev, and the Marchioness
Company was the most popular of all. Aguado then, in the second rank, the
;
Neither the Emperor nor the Empress were joyous ladies who were the especial fa-
fond of music. The theatrical represen- vorites of the Empress, the Countess —
tations cost from 20,000 to 40,000 francs de Pourtales, the Marchionesses de Gal-
each. The artists of the Theatre Francais liffet, de Cadore, de Villa Marina, and
were the only ones who were allowed to a host of beautiful foreign ladies, Amer-
go and salute the Emperor and Empress ican, Italian, Spanish, German, and
aud indulge in a few moments' conversa- English.
tion with them after the play. On these occasions the toilette de bal
The luxury of the Imperial theatre was rigorously exacted from all the
was quite remarkable. The Imperial ladies. No

Duchess of sixty was ex-
box contained one hundred and fifty empted by the Empress from the rigid
seats, and on each side of it was a gal- rule which required her to bare her
lery, so called, in which the most beau- shoulders. It is said that one day the
tiful women of the Court took their Empress's careful gaze detected an old
places. At nine o'clock precisely, on lady who had violated the rule, aud who
the evening of the play, the chief had hidden herself as well as she could
chamberlain came into the loge in in the last row of seats in the loges.
Court costume, with rapier at side, The chamberlain was immediately sent
and announced in a loud voice, "The to order the lady at once to leave the
Emperor!" Then every one arose. hall.
The Emperor and Empress came in, On certain occasions the Court was
bowing to right and left, and sat down invited to some aristocratic cJidteau in
in their great gilded chairs, with a little the neighborhood. During the day
army of chamberlains and domestics there was a hunting expedition, the cere-
behind them. On a gala night this mony of the curie, or the feeding of
theatre furnished a complete epitome of the hounds by torch-light in the court-
society under the Empire. There might yard ; aud afterwards, in the parlors, a
be seen in sumptuous toilettes the Count- sreat ball.

CHAPTER THREE.
What was the Second Empire? — How was it — The Perjury of the Prince President. — The
Created?
Plebiscite. — The Massacres of December. — General Changarnier and his Fidelity to his Coun-
try.— The Protest of the Deputies. — Struggle of the Citizens. — The Reign of Terror. — The
Imperial Eagle. —A Period of Absolute Repression.
WE have seen the Second Empire at

the height of its glory, its creator
lie fell
the Third Republic.

Erauce before the foundation of
and master surrounded by brilliant pag- The stoiy has been told in a hundred
eants, visited by neighboring monarchs, ways : with picturesque and poetic vi-
entertaining the nations at a grand fes- vacity by Victor Hugo and Kinglake ;
tival of peace and industry, and inaugu- with force and sincerity by Taxilc De-
rating in the same year a democratic and lord and with the uupitying and flawless
;
liberal policy. To the casual observer clearness of a judge summing up the
this might have seemed a lilting culmi- career of one on trial before him, by
nation to a just and honorable career. Jules Simon.
But, while everything on the surface was The majority of those who voted for
fair to sec, it deny the

was impossible to Prince Louis Napoleon Bonaparte as
presence of internal convulsions, which President of the French Republic, on

seemed likely to bring speedy disrup- the 10th of December, 1848, doubtless
tion and ruin upon the Imperial party, expected that, in the course of his polit-
if not upon the nation which it governed. ical career, he would undertake a coup
What was the cause of the powerful (VElat. As Jules Simon very neatly
opposition to the Empire which had puts it, " A nation does not give a Re-
grown up since ISC..")? Why was it that public into the hands of a prince when
the leading liberals of the country, who it wishes to save a Republic." But
were naturally anxious at all cost to shortly after his election, the President,
maintain public order and to prevent the in obedience to the constitution, which
advent to power of the aggressive Social- had abolished the political oath for all
ists and Communists, —
why was it that functionaries except for the chief magis-
they did not rally to the support of this trate of the nation, took, before the
Empire, which professed its willingness national representatives in the Assem-

to give the country ample liberty, just as bly, the following oath :
—
fast as it could demonstrate its fitness to •• In the presence of God, and before
possess it? A sufficient answer to these the French people represented by the
questions may be found in a brief recital National Assembly, I swear to remain
of the origin of the Second Empire ; and faithful to the Republic, democratic,
this resume of one of the most remarka- inn' et indivisible, and to fulfil all the
ble political events of modern times is duties which the constitution imposes
necessary to a complete understanding upon me."
of the dramatic series of disasters which This was certainly a formal engage-
EUROPE IN ST011M AND CALM. 41
nient, from which there was uo honora- sor power strengthened, liberty intact,
ble retreat,ami the President of the and real progress accomplished."
Assembly solemnly called upon God and M. Jules Simon tells us that on the
man to witness the oath which the Prince 12th of August, 1850, the President of
had just taken. From that time for- mayor of Lyons,
the Republic said to the
ward the French Republic rested entirely " You may possibly have heard some
upon 1 the good faith of Prince Louis remarks about a coup d'Etat. You did
Napoleon, who had from his earliest not believe them, and I thank you for
childhood announced publicly to hi* this proof of confidence." At a great
friends and acquaintances that he would dinner, given in his honor at Strasbourg,
one day be Emperor of France, and who he alluded to the rumors of a possible
had twice himself tried, by force of arms, attack upon the Republic, and repudi-
to gain power in the country to which ho ated them with scorn. " I know noth-
felt himself called by do not fate. I ing but my duty," he said. A year after-
say called by Providence, for Providence wards, in November of 1851, he still
entered but little into the calculations of professed an unalterable devotion to the
the late Emperor of the French. He Republic. The President of the Council
was a pure fatalist far more so even
; said of him one of his colleagues,
to
than the first Napoleon, and showed " He is the most honest man in the
ample proof of this in the manner in Republic. He will never betray his
which he submitted, without even a dem- oath ; I am sure of it."
onstration of heroism, to his misfortune For more than three years, therefore,
:it Sedan. lie felt, in short, that the Prince Louis Napoleon Bonaparte an-
" game was up," that the stars were no nounced repeatedly, and on public and
longer kindly and he was too strong to
; private occasions, that he was faithful
complain, too much of a fatalist to to the Republic,and that he would con-
make any endeavor to change circum- sider as a great criminal any one who
stances. should become a traitor to that form of
Louis Napoleon lost no time in con- government, so recently established in
firming the assurances which he had given France. Rut there seems little doubt
in his oath. On the 20th of December, that as early as 1850 he had definitely
1848, he said that the suffrages of the resolved to betray his trust. From that
nation and the oath that he had taken time forward he began to have uses for
commanded his future conduct and large sums of money, which his expen-
traced his public duty, so that he could ditures merely as President of the Re-
not mistake it. " I shall regard," he public did not seem to justify. He
said, "as enemies of the country all received as salary 1,200, 000. francs from
those who try by illegal means to change the nation, pud perquisites ; but he man-
the form of government which you have aged to get his appropriation increased
established." He had previously said to 1,490,000 francs the first year, and
(just before his election) that if elected to 3,410,000 the second year. In every
President he should devote himself en- place of importance to which he could
tirely, without any sort of reserve, to the appoint a functionary he put a man who
establishment of the Republic. "I will was devoted, not to the State or to the
pledge my honor," he said, " to leave Republic, but to himself. Never were
at the eud of four years to rny succes- there so many men of small or no scru-
42 FfROVE IN STOU.M AND CALM.
pies placed in raiuisterial and other ered, lie took care not to countermand
positions of trust and honor. the orders given to the coachman.
In 1850 he began to copy in many Old General Changarnier was incor-
ways the fashions of the First Empire, ruptible to the last. He used to say
and to talk everywhere of the Napoleonic thai Napoleon had frequently offered to
Legend, which had already been so use- him, not only the dignity of marshal,
ful to him. In January of 1849, and at but various other important positions, if
the end of 1850, there were mysterious the general would consent to enlist him-
movements of troops, which were self in the ranks of the conspirators.
thought by the Republicans t<> indicate When was found that Changarnier
it
attempts at a rmip d'Etat. But nothing could not be corrupted, he was attacked
came A good story
of either of them. on all sides by the party in power.
is told of manner in which
the clever Finally lie was removed from his post
old General Changarnier managed to as Commander of the Army and the
prevent the Imperialist manifesto in National Guard. On that day Monsieur
1850. A great review of troops had Thiers, who was wiser than most of the
been held on the heights of Satory near men of his time, said in the legislative
Versailles. At this review the troops, assembly, "The Empire is established."
who had been thoroughly interested in In 1851 Napoleon and his men moved
the Imperial cause, cried boldly, '• 17/v rapidly forward to the conclusion of
VEmpereur!" Troops had been massed their enterprise. The law of the 31st of
around the Gare St. Lazare iu Paris, May. which suppressed three millions
and it was intended that the Prince of voters, and to establish which the
President, when he arrived from the Prince President had himself helped, was
review, should place himself at the head now used by him to increase his popu-
of these troops, march to the Tuileries, larity expense of that of the
at the
and there proclaim his Dictatorship. National Assembly. Indeed, Napoleon
But those who had thus plotted had not placed himself with great dexterity iu
taken into account the cleverness of this secure position, that he might say
General Changarnier, who had discov- to the French people that if he over-
ered this plot, and who checked
by a it turned the Assembly it was to save
movement of supreme coolness and good universal suffrage. The first step tow-
sense. The Prince President arrived at ards absolute [lower was thus made by
the railway station with his proclamation causing a conflict of authority between
in his pocket, and surrounded by his the Prince President and the representa-
counsellors and by the ringleaders of the tives of the people the National As-
in
conspiracy. IB' was moving to his car- sembly. Then the Assembly proposed
riage when General Changarnier stepped what was known as the loi des questeurs,
up, complimented him upon the success which gave the right to the officers of
of the review, ceremoniously conducted the Assembly to demand forces necessary
him to the carriage, shut the door of it. to secure the legislative body against
with his own hands, and said to the armed interference. This was a sign of
coachman, " Drive to the Flysee." Na- weakness, of which the Imperial faction
poleon was not devoid of esprit. He speedily took advantage. While matur-
saw by something in Changarnier's de- ing their plan, the Imperialists had natu-
meanor that his plan had been discov- rally bestowed great attention upon the
EUROPE IN STORM AXD CALM. 43
As M. Jules Simon says, "The place ? " The colonel proceeded to say
army:
generals were mere creatures of the Im- that he could and would carry out any
perialist conspirators." Those honest order of that nature. The fact is, that
and courageous who, like Lamo-

soldiers, when he left the Elys<5e that night he
riciere, could not be counted upon to had the skins taken off from all the drum-
betray' the country's cause, were already heads, which was a very effective manner
placed on a black list, and marked for of preventing the drummers from making
arrest and seclusion whenever the blow a noise on the fatal day. The Prince
should be struck. It is said that a President conversed a few moments
great part of the patrimony of Napoleon longer with the colonel, then said, "Go
was given away, in small and large sums, to the Minister of War ; but do not leave
to people in the military service whom at once, or it will be thought I have given
he wished to corrupt. He even bor- you an order." Then, taking the arm
rowed large sums for the same use of the Spanish Ambassador, who came
both before and after his election as up at that moment, the Prince returned
President. to his guests.
On the 1st of December, 1851, there On the same day, but earlier in the
was the usual evening reception at the evening, the Prince President, in con-
Palace of the Elys6e. Various accounts versation with the Mayor of Nantes,
of the events which occurred on this even- said to him, speaking of rumors of con-
ing have been printed. Perhaps none spiracy which had been recently circu-
aremore correct than those of M Maxime .
lated, " You, at least, M. Favre, do
Ducampand M. Jules Simon. The Prince not believe this story is it not so ? You
;
President remained in the parlors talking know that I am an honest man." The
with the members of the diplomatic corps Mayor of Nantes must have smiled
and distinguished visitors on all sorts of shortlyafterwards, when he saw the
trivial matters, and making numerous work which the honest man had done.
engagements for the following day. No The next morning the French people,
one saw in his face, or detected in his and the world outside, learned that the
words, any signs of preoccupation. coupd'Jzltat had come at last. M.Thiers,
About ten o'clock, on this evening, the the Generals Cavaignac, Lamoriciere,
Presidentmade a sign to a colonel who Bedeau, Changarnier, and other dis-
had been named by the conspirators that tinguished officers, had been dragged
veiy evening the chief of staff of the from their beds and carried off to the
National Guard. " Colonel," said he, prison of Mazas.
smiling, "are you master enough of All the streets surrounding the Elys6e
your face not to let any great emotion ap- and the Palais Bourbon, where the Na-
pear upon it? " —
"I fancy so, Prince," tional Assembly held its sessions, were
replied the newly-promoted colonel. blocked up with troops. The officers
"Very well, then, it is for to-night," commanding the few soldiers who were
replied the President, in a low voice. guarding the Legislative Palace were
" You do not start? Very well we are ; disarmed, and many of the officials of
all right ! Can you give me your word the Assembly were arrested. When the
that, to-morrow, the rappel will not be colonel charged with the duty of tak-
sounded anywhere, and that no assem- ing the Legislative Palace entered that
bly of the National Guard will take building he first went to the command-
ant. There he found the lieutenant- audacious act was prompt, but feeble.
colonel, who, startled by the unusual A few deputies and politicians got to-
noise in the night, was just putting on gether hastily and signed a protest, de-
his clothes. The colonel seized a sword claring that the Prince President by his
which was lying upon the chair where- ; act, in virtue of an article in the Consti-
upon the Republican officer advanced, tution,had forfeited his position and in ;
pale with rage, and said, "You do well thissame document the convening of the
to take it, for a moment later I would High Court of Justice was suggested.
have run you through the body with it." This document was signed by many of
This was, however, the only sign of re- the most distinguished and eloquent men
sistance then made. When the morning in France. Victor Hugo, who afterward
of the 2d of December dawned nearly became so prominent and powerful an
all the Liberal and Republican deputies enemy of the Imperialist cause, then
of the country had been locked up in drew up an appeal to arms, which was
prison. Public buildings and offices hastily struck off in the neighboring
were taken possession of by the con- printing-offices, and scattered through
spirators, and the hostile newspapers the crowd. Finally a few deputies got
were suppressed, and a proclamation together in the Palais Bourbon, the Im-
posted on the walls announced, " in the perialist meantime, having
soldiers,
name of the French people and by de- closed most of the doors and locked
cree of the President of the Republic," them, and left the building. But no
the dissolution of the National Assem- sooner had the forty or fifty deputies,
bly, and the reestablishment of univer- who had got in through a back door,
sal suffrage. New elections were de- begun their session, than a new body
creed. A state of siege was established of soldiers arrived and drove them out.
in whatwas called the first military The deputies, and about one hundred
division. The Council of State was and sixty or one hundred and seventy
dissolved. This was revolution indeed. others then took refuge in one of the
The proclamation of the Prince Presi- municipal buildings in the tenth ward,
dent to the French nation was headed and there unanimously voted the decree
by the words, " Appeal to the People," which was drawn up by the great Ber.
which has ever since that time been the ryer, and which proclaimed the downfall
watchword of the Bonapartist party. of Bonaparte.
That everything was carried out on But was of no avail. Troops,
all this
this memorable night with such precision police commissioners, and other authori-
and complete, order is the best proof ties, once more dispersed the represent-
that the coup d'Etat was prepared along atives of the country in the name of the
time in advance. It is even said that new Prefect of Police. A young officer
the Prince President had long had near coolly read a despatch which he had just
him in a sealed package these proclama- received from a general to whom had
tions and that on the package was
;
been given the chief command of the
written the word " Rubicon ;" from which troops in Paris. By this despatch the
we may infer that lie compared his forth- unlucky deputies learned that those who
coming adventurous enterprise to the offered any resistance were to be at
crossing of the Rubicon by Cassar. once arrested and taken to Mazas.
The resistance to this astoundingly Thev therefore surrendered, and went in
a body to the great prison, conducted, as condemned to different terms of impris-

if they themselves were the insurrection- onment the others were set at liberty.
;
ists, by a squad of troops. Some of Thousands of persons were subjected to

them were even taken by the collar, as police surveillance, one of the most hu-
if they were thieves or pickpockets. miliating which can befall a
afflictions
Then came the struggle of the citi- human being. Nine hundred and fifteen
zens fighting for the constitution and persons were sentenced by courts-martial
the laws against the corrupted army for crimes against the common law, so
and the representatives of the newly called, which' were really nothing but
arrived authority. Those days of barri- political offences. Nearly ten thousand
cades and massacre are not yet forgot- political opponents of the new Empire
ten. The spirit of Baudin, who was were transported to Algeria. Thousands
killed on the barricade in one of the upon thousands were sent to linger in
days which followed the coup d'Etat, was unhealthy prisons and in transport-ships
destined to rise sixteen years afterwards waiting until there was an opportunity
and strike terror into the hearts of the to send them to Cayenne or Lambessa.
supporters of the Empire. There were The least prejudiced and most careful
plenty of heroic attempts at resistance, authorities believe that they are not
but none were attended with any success guilty of exaggeration in saying that the
iu the first two or three days. The Revolution of the 2d of December, 1851,
deputies who had escaped went arrest made, at least one hundred thousand
from barricade to barricade, haranguing victims.
the crowds who had gathered to fight When the authors of the coup d'Etat
the troops. Wherever the cry of " Vive were well established in power they pro-
VAssemblde Ndtionale was raised the
" ceeded to fortify their position. They
troops charged upon the citizens, and a voted a " law of general surety," which
great many innocent and unarmed placed every Frenchman at the arbitrary
people were killed. On the 4th of disposition of the police, to be trans-
December there was a veritable mas- ported if he did, or even thought, any-
sacre on the boulevard, and fifteen hun- thing against the government. Jules
dred men made a vigorous defence Simon says, "The law of the 27th of
against more than forty thousand. It February, 1858, called the Law of
is said on this day more than
that General Surety, placed every citizen at
sixty people were killed between the the mercy of the Minister of the Inte-
Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle and the rior." The whole country seemed bound
Boulevard des Italiens and the official
; with iron bands. People who had be-
Imperial papers six months after the come accustomed, under the Republic
fight admitted that three hundred and and under the comparatively mild mon-
eighty persons were killed upon that day. archies which had succeeded each other
On the 27th of January, 1853, M. de since the First Empire, to a reasonable
Maupas, Minister of Police, presented amount of liberty, were astounded be-
to the new Emperor a table, showing yond measure at the rigime in which they
that twenty-six thousand six hundred now entered. A respectable and respon-
and forty-two persons were arrested or sible citizen would lie arrested upon the
prosecuted in France after the coup denunciation of some political and private
d'Etat. Twenty thousand of these were enemy would be kept in prison without
;
4(3 EUROPE l.\ STOfiM AND CALM.
being allowed to communicate with his attendant massacres, the President an-
family for weeks, sometimes for months ; nounced "The Plebiscite." Now a ple-
would then be brought up before a com- biscite is the favorite arm of French
missioner of police, who had very likely Imperialism. It is an election with appar-
never heard of him, being appointed from ent fairness, yet an election so arranged
the rank of the numerous Corsicans faith- that it is impossible for citizens with
ful to the [mperialisl cause, and would safety to vote against the interests of the
be sentenced to transportation. He government which brings about the elec-
would then he shackled with a criminal, tion. The formula laid down by the new
packed into a prison wagon, taken to a authorities, to be voted upon, was as fol-
seaport, and sent off to ('avenue, living, lows: "The
French people wishes the
and sleeping with the vilest crimi-
ratine;, maintenance of the authority of Louis
nals,when his only offence might have Napoleon Bonaparte, and delegates to
been a word spoken lightly in blame of him the powers necessary to make a con-
the Empire. stitution on the basis proposed in his
A discreet and moderate critic has proclamation of the 2d of December."
summed up the reasons for the success of Thus the country had first the dispersion
the coup d'Etat in a few words. "The of its regularly elected representatives
enterprise," he says, " only succeeded be- by an armed force ; then a proclamation
cause was supported by sixty thousand
it by the party employing that armed force
men, and because at the first sign of re- announcing new elections; then the new
sistanceM. De Moray, according to his elections held within the iron grooves
own expression, " knew how to take ' made by the party having possession of
the town by terror.' Immense fact! power. It is therefore not startling that
France, with its military system, is in the country, humiliated, crushed, and
the power of him who holds the control fearful lest, if the embryo Empire were
of the armed forces in his hands." M. swept away, civil war might ensue, gave
de Sybel sa\ s of the slaughter during its coerced assent to the formula of the
the days following the coup d'Etat on plebiscite. The vote was as follows:
the 4th of December " When: the Prince 7,439,216, " Yes," against 040,737,
saw that there was an armed resistance " No." The Prince President professed
the tiger in him got the uppermost. to be delighted with his triumph, and
The troops received an order to suppress went forward bravely to the construction
the movement wifli pitiless energy. In of the Constitution. With regard to this
a few hours many hundreds of men, " plebiscite " it should be added, that
simple spectators, women, old men, and there were more than a million and a half
children, were massacred. It was the of abstentions in the country, and these
same in the departments. Wherever may be supposed to represent the men
resistance broke out it was put down who were too honest to say yes. and too
with frightful cruelty. The number of weak to say no. These many millions
those actually killed has not been made of votes, on which the claims of the Im-
known, but more than twenty-six thou- perial party to power have been based
sand men were sent across the ocean in ever since, gave Louis Napoleon Bona-
"
exile in a tew weeks. parte the presidency of the Republic for
Immediately after the country had ten years. " France," he said, in joyous
been terrorized by the coup d'Etat and its indiscretion, " has responded to the royal
appeal which I made to her. She lias establishing the Empire and in October,
;
understood that I transgressed legality at Bordeaux, he made a speech, in which

only to get back to justice." More than he used the celebrated phrase, " Em- '
U
seven millions of votes had absolved pire e'est hi paix.' It is peace because
him. Prance desires it ; and when France is
Thenceforward the attitude of the satisfied the rest of the world is tranquil."
Prince President was void of
dissimulation. On the 1st of
January. 1852, he placed the
Imperial eagle on his flags,
chose the Tuileries for his
residence, even had a Te
Dcuiu sung at the cathedral
of Notre Dame de Paris, and
otherwise imitated the pro-
ceedings of the First Empire.
In the same month he ex-
pelled from the country all
the old representatives of the

Legislative Assembly who
had opposed him and among ;
them were such men as Victor

Hugo, Edouard Laboulaye,
Nadaud, Bancel, Pelletier,
Schoeleher, andGambon. I le
also sentenced to temporary

exile Changaruier, Thiers, de
Remusat, and many other dis-
tinguished Republicans. This
month of January was a fruit-
ful working time with him.
He promulgated the new Con-
stitution, of which he was the
author, and in which he at-
tributed to himself the initia-
tive of the laws, the appoint-
ing of the members of the EPISODE OF THE COUP D'ETAT.
Senate, and defined the few
rights which were left to the lower On his return to Paris cries of " Vive
!
house of the Legislature, Next, he V Empereur " were raised by the official
created a Minister of Police nd confis- chorus always in his train : but the Prince
cated the estates of the Orleans family ; President was like Richard III., — he
but it was not until September of this liked to be urged ; and. according to
same year that, while inaugurating the him, it was only in obedience to public
equestrian statue of Napoleon I., at opinion that he consented to consult the
Lyons, he hinted his intention of re- Senate. This servile body voted the
48 EUROTE IN STORM AND CALM.
establishment of the Empire, almost of which we have sketched some of the

unanimously, iu November of 1852, and salient features, may be read in the fol-
a new gave 7,824,129 votes

plebiscite lowing brief sentences from the pen of
for the Empire and 253,119 against it. Jules Simon :
—
Exactly one year after the coup d'Etat, '• I will pass over the eighteen years
on the 1st of December, 1852, at eight of the reign inaugurated by the 2d of
o'clock in the evening, Louis Bonaparte December. They might be summed up
was solemnly proclaimed Emperor, by as to the internal regime in these words:
the name of Napoleon III., at St. Cloud, the mixed commissions (which decreed
in the presence of the Senate and the the executions and expulsions following
Corps L&gislatif. Hy a decree of the the coup d'Etat); the general surety;
18th of the same month he arranged the repressive administration of the
the order of succession to the throne, Press, and the official candidateships ; no
richly dowered the newly made Impe- liberties whatever ; and for the external
rial family, and gave himself a civil list policy, this only : Sebastopol ; Italian
of 25,000,000 francs, exclusive of the unity cleft in twain by the Peace of
revenues derived from the domain of ViUafranca ; Mexico; Sadowa no al-
;
the crown. liance."

We need not pursue further our re- It was, in short, a period of absolute
view of the Second Empire. Its whole repression, which was approaching its
history, from the creation of Napo- close iu 18G7, and which was to finish in
leon as President to the brilliant year storm and blood.
CHAPTER FOUR.
The Imperial Reforms come Too Late. — Uprising of the Internationale. — The Commune Foreshadowed.
WHEN the Emperor Napoleon

endeavored to save his tottering
III. cused of socialistic tendencies
used laughingly to say of himself, when
; and he
Empire by inaugurating liberal reforms lie was in the full tide of his power at
in France, it was already too late. In the Tuileries, that he was the only mem-
his own party there were few if any ber of the European family of sovereigns
statesmen, or even politicians of talent who was a socialist. The real fact is
and importance, who believed that it that Napoleon III.was not a socialist at
was either safe or expedient to abandon all, but that he was a skilful demagogue ;
the practice of repression, which had and had been cast in a Republi-
his lot
been kept up with such vigor for many can country, where political campaigns
years and all the sincere friends of
; are conducted with the greatest freedom,
real liberty were determined to postpone and even license, he would have been in
the advent of freedom rather than to his youth at the head of a working-men's
accept from the hands of "the man
it party, which would have been powerful
of December." The Empire was in dan- and unscrupulous, because he would
ger abroad from the constantly growing have taken advantage of its ignorance.
influence of Prussia, and at home from The Empire at. regular intervals made
the skilful and insidious working of the bids for popularity among the working-
great "International Association," —a classes, and as regularly failed to achieve
nrysterious body of conspirators, with it. The endowment of hospitals, and
which most of the taleuted working- occasional visits to industrial centres, did
men of the great cities of France had not, in the eyes of the thoroughly grieved
relations ; from the gradually growing and angered laborer, compensate for the
courage of the Press ; and also from lack of public schools, and for the main-
the untameable eloquence of certain tenance of most of the old monarchical
young orators in Paris, who, like Gam- oppressive formalities with regard to the
betta, had not yet found a public out- condition of the toiler for wages.
Bide of the cafes of the Latin Quarter, The retainers of the Empire had vivid
but who were not frightened by visions memories of the Revolution of l*4.s.
of fine or imprisonment, and who man- They took full advantage of their knowl-
aged to tell the people a good deal of edge of its follies and its failures,
truth. and used them as an argument agaiust
The Emperor had in his early days giving full liberties to the masses. Na-
made careful studies of the condition of poleon himself, by the famous letter of
theworking-men in France and in other the 19th of January, 1867, in which he
European countries. He had written, spoke witli such apparent frankness of
during his captivity at Ham, certain past repression, and made such generous
pamphlets which caused him to be ac- promises of future liberality, meant to
check in some measure the working- were gradually unsettling the social
men's movement against theEmpire order, aud at the same time by arrange-
and against authority. He had been ments witli Prussia to offset the pre-
shrewd enough to observe this movement ponderance which that aggressive nation
two or three years before it came to the had recently obtained, by getting some
surface. No man was better placed territorial aggrandizement for France,
than himself for obtaining a full appre- lie might have died upon the throne of
ciation of the volcanic shimmer; none France.

better qualified to judge of the moment But the fates seemed against him,
when the hidden forces might break and the Napoleons have always believed
forth. He knew the thinness of the crust in the fates. The ease with which he
upon which he stood ; but, although he succumbed in 1870 leads one to believe
knew it, his supporters aud partisans, that he felt his cause lost when he failed
flushed with long maintenance of power, in 18G7 and 1868 to carry out his plan.
aud blinded by their contempt for the The first check which the Emperor
laboring classes, refused to appreciate it. received, in his endeavor to save the sit-
M. Rouher, so long in the service of uation, came from the efforts of a pow-
the Empire that he had come familiarly erful and popular Parisian journalist,
to be called the " Vice-Emperor," was M. Emile de Girardin, an old war-horse
deeply grieved,and somewhat angered of combat, who had a reputation in
by Napoleon's M. Rouher was
letter. France something like that won by
a robust Auvergnat, blessed with two Horace Greeley in America who had the ;
flue elements of success, —a massive energy and bravery of a good soldier,

physique, which gave him an unbounded and the suppleness, the delicacy in in-
capacity for work

and an easy con-
; trigue, of a trained M. de
diplomat.
science, which enabled him to find a Girardin was an uncompromising enemy
speedy apology for any misdeed which of the Emperor's new departure, and as
seemed to serve for the moment the ends early as March, 1867, he was so aggres-
of the Empire. Rouher was expected by come under the Imperial law,
sive as to
his friends to resign his portfolio as Min- and he was fined 5,000 francs for a press
ister of State at the beginning of 1807, offence. This was because he denied
because it was well known in Imperialist with much eloquence tin- Emperor's as-
circles that lie was the greatest advocate sertion that he had brought the country
of a continuance of repressive policy. gradually, up to better
year by year,
He used to say that the reforms of which things. Another journalist who dared to
the Emperor talked so airily would lie beard the Emperor, and who did it with
the very abomination of desolation ; that, a skill and daring of which France had
the country had all the liberties it was rarely seen instances for half a genera-
fitted to possess, and that it was suicidal tion, was Henri Rochefort, whose roman-
for the Empire to giant more. It, is tic history since that time is now well
impossible to avoid the conclusion that known all over the world. Rochefort
Napoleon was gifted with greater fore- began to write, in a sprightly Paris journal
sight,than that possessed by his Minister called the Figaro, about the time that
of State. Had the Emperor been able to that paper became a daily in 1860. He
achieve his purpose of satisfying by par- won a brilliant reputation as a chroniqueur
tial reforms the clamorous workers who and critic of political events in 1867,
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. M
and the liberal public rallied around him. writing against the Empire. They were
The blows which he struck were so hard not always decent in their attacks, and
that the Empire speedily put itself upon M. Rochefort must now and then blush
the defensive, and the sale of the Figaro when he remembers the diatribes pub-
upon the public street was forbidden In- lished in his Lanterne, which was founded
law. This under the Empire was a by him, in 1868, expressly to combat the
common occurrence. The purchaser of Empire.
a Republican or Liberal paper expected But they did their work, and did it
at least once a month to find that his well. The more the Empire prosecuted,
journal had been seized, or that its the greater became the daring of the
salehad been stopped in the little kiosks, journalists of these last days of the
or wooden pavilions, where the news- Imperial reijime, and the Emperor was.
vendors sell their wares on the boule- bitterly perplexed. If he accorded com*
A PARISIAN JOURNALIST IX PRISON.
vards; and he went philosophically to plete liberties he felt that he might be

the bookseller, behind whose sheltering swept away on account of them if be ;
windows he would find the offending did not accord complete liberties they
journal, generally at an advanced price. might be taken by force out of his
I)e Girardin and Rochefort gave the first hands.
impetus to the final revolt against the The International Association of
Empire. They laughed to scorn the Workingmen was an enemy which the
promises of those who had so long faltering Empire strove to reach by
practised a different doctrine from that every means in its power. It tracked
which they now professed. They spoke down the humble artisans who met in
out with an earnestness all the more out of the way places to pa^s measures
striking because it was contrasted with which in America or England would
the irony, or the compressed wit, with have been considered as in no way prej-
which Liberals like Prevost Paradol had udicial to the safety of the State, and
felt obliged to content themselves when not very dangerous to the property of
the capitalist. It published decrees. vague and hollow theories of Louis Blanc
It strengthened its prohibitive measures and other kindred spirits about the rela-
against secret societies, and put down tions of labor to capital and to the State.
" strikes," which were becoming very The laborers of the new generation were
numerous, with the greatest promptness. determined on emancipation.
But the Internationale, as it was called, In England, Karl Marx brought the In-
was as difficult to kill as the Nihilist ternational Association of Working-men
organization has been at a later day in fairly into good society for a time and ;
Russia. "
was," says the Vicomtc
It in the countries where it was not harassed
de Beaumont- Yassy, in his "Authentic and driven into hiding-places it did not
History of the Commune of Paris," "a extensively advertise its socialistic pro-
terrible secret society, which sought to pensities. In France, because the Em-
envelop tbe whole world in its invisible pire harried it without cessation, it
snares, and seemed to us in the nine- fomented strikes, provoked riots in the
teenth century as if endeavoring to cities, and published proclamations which
execute upon governments such sen- made the bourgeois tremble in his shoes.
tences as the secret tribunals of (Ger- I have heard Frenchmen seriously say
many in the middle ages executed upon that Bismarck subsidized the Association
sovereigns." at the time of the great Creuzot strike.
The Internationale was a terrible bug- The reason given for this was that
bear to the bourgeois, or property-holding Prussia, always on the alert against at-
man of the middle classes, and his fears tacks by the Imperial Government, had
were not unfounded, as will Ik 1
seen a direct interest in creating as much
later. embarrassment for that government as
It is the fashion in France to say possible. This is a doubtful story.
that the Internationale hail its origin The programme of the International
in Germany. I have no desire to Association was comprehensive and radi-
enter closely into the origin of the cal. It was printed for the first time
Association. The supposition that it is in London, and speedily got into print
due to the theories so copiously written iu France, although any comment upon
upon by Leibnitz and Jacobi in Germany its doctrines was sternly forbidden. The
has uo better foundation than that which document was as follows :
—
gives us as its originators such great " Every man has a right to existence,
and wrong-headed thinkers as Proudhon and, consequently, a right to work.
and Pierre Leroux. "The right, to work is imprescriptible,
A certain number of French writers and. for that reason, ought to be accom-
say that the first socialistic notions of panied by the right of instruction and of
came into France with
the Internationale liberty of action.
the German workmen who emigrated "As it is at present constituted, so-
from their homes in great numbers to ciety can offer no real guarantee to the
the fertile lands and richer cities beyond laborer.
the Rhine, in the ten years preceding " In fact, an obstacle arises before
the war of 1870. That which is estab- him at the very outset of his career.
lished beyond doubt is that the Inter- This obstacle is capital.
nationale was a. practical and active " Whichever way the laborer turns, he
organization, setting aside as useless the cannot battle against the inert force of
money, accompanied and supported by " When the International Society of

the intelligent capitalist. Working-men has stamped out the germ
" To solve the problem some have tried of these prejudices among all laborers
association ; others, mutualism. They capital will be dead. Then society can
thought they were settling, but in fact arise upon an indestructible basis then ;
they were only muddling, the question. workmen will rally for the right to
"They did not perceive that, so long work then women will be free.
; The
as capital remained intact, the associa- child will have a real right to live under
tion ofmere brain and muscle would not the a>gis of a society which will no
suffice but that they must have their
;
longer abuse him.
own capital, and that this is all the more "But let no one deceive himself; let
important, because the money capitalists dreamers seek no system for arriving at
would oppose with all their force the a solution that force alone can give.
revolt of labor against their tyranny. "Force! this is what will give the
By this fact alone previous associations sceptre of the world to the laboring
of working-men are condemned. Mutual- classes ; outside of this nothing can lift
ism has done nothing for the working- them from the rut of rotten modern civ-
man or the laborer but to put him more ilization.

than ever under the domination of money ;
" When two contrary powers are op-
so that there is nothing to be hoped from posed to one another one of the two
these methods. must be annihilated.
"Now, it is not capital alone which To arms, laborers
'
' Progress and !
binds down the working-man. Swaddled humanity count upon you."

from his infancy in the triple loug-clotlies Who cannot see in this twaddling,
of country, family, and religion ; cradled incoherent proclamation the germ of the
in the respect for property, however it dread Socialism which crept into the
may have been got, the proletariat can Commune of Paris shortly after its
become something only on condition of proclamation and which did such

in 1871,
annihilating all this, of casting away dire mischief? Those followers of the
from it these old notions of paternal Empire who were blessed with sufficient
barbarisms. intelligence to review the shortcomings
" The International Association has of their party's career could not fail to
and can have no other aim than that of perceive that this programme of the
aiding in the extinction of these mon- Internationale was the outcome of an

strous prejudices. ignorance which might have been
" It ought to become to workmen amended, swept away,
if not entirely
of all countries a centre of action, an so far as the French working-men were
energetic director, to show them how to concerned, during the years between
act together. It alone has the power 1848 and 1867. In point of fact what
and the right to discipline the masses, French workmen were clamoring for
to hurl them upon their oppressors, who was extremely simple. They needed
will feel crushed beneath the shock. the abolition of the privileges of the
"To this end its programme should employing class the abolition of the ;
be the abolition of all religions, of prop- livret, or " character-book," which made
erty, of the family, of the hereditary each artisan in some sense a slavish
principle, and of the nation. dependent on his employer ; and they
54 EUROl'h: I\ STORM AND CALM.
furthermore needed the right of public them reforms the propitious hour was
assembly, unrestricted right to bear passed. The germ of the Commune was
arras, and the uninterrupted right to sown. The government, which had
strikewhen they had a decent grievance. usurped authority in France on the ex-
But, because the Empire had persistently clusive plea that it had a mission to
denied them these things, they weir maintain order, had at the end of its
driven in their mad determination to career the disgrace of seeing a social

protest against the social order which disorder,more profound and terrible than
had done nothing for them, by affiliation any which has occurred elsewhere in this
with the grotesque anil abominable century, uprising with dreadful speed,
theories of this so-called International and in spite of the most vigorous c::
-
Association of Working-men. When deavor to keep it down.

the Empire repented and wished to give
—
CHAPTER FIVK.
Events in Spain. —
The Outcropping of Revolution. Rule of the Internationale. Brief Review of —
Spanish Politics. — —
Dona Isabel. Prim and Serrano. —
A Journey through the North of Spain.
Biarritz and San Sebastian. — —
A Wonderful Railway. The Approach to the Escurial. An Im- —
pressive Edifice. —
Looking at a Dead Monarch.
WHILE there were, thus, many pro- this mysterious and subterranean agent
tests inFrance against the re- known as the Internationale, working di-
pressive government of the Second rectlyupon the passions and prejudices of
Empire, few people fancied that the Re- the uneducated or half-educated classes,
publican experiment was likely to begin was dreaded and feared. In the autumn
in earnest for many years and it is amus-

; of 1869 the Internationale was as much
ing to back and remember how
look talked of as the Nihilists have been in re-
earnestly the French of liberal sympa- cent years. Wherever a blow could be
thies watched the progress of events struck at it iu France, as in 1867, the
beyond the Pyrenees, confident that in government never lost an opportunity.
Spain the Republic would first get a firm It would be difficult to understand what
hold. Spanish polities have rarely been was taking place in Spain at this time
more interesting since the beginning of without briefly reviewing Spanish politi-
this perturbed century than they were in cal from the beginning of the
history
1869. The rapid succession of pictu- century. We find Napoleon 1. at Ba-
resque and dramatic events, which had yonne shortly after Charles IV. had given
taken place since Queen Isabel tied from up his crown to his son, Ferdinand VII. ;
her capital to San Sebastian, had turned and the Corsican ogre has a curt inter-
the gaze of all Europe to the country view with these two Spanish kings, forc-
which seemed suddenly to have awakened ing them to yield their rights to the
from its long and slothful devotion to throne, carrying off the whole royal
priestcraft and to the least intelligent family prisoners into France, ami giving
form of monarchy. The famous Inter- the crown of Spain to his brother Joseph
nationale was said to have wide ramifi- Bonaparte. Victor Hugo lias given us
cations in Spain, and to be preparing some thrilling pictures of the life at the
socialistic revolutions which were to French Court in Spain after 1808, when
break forth simultaneously in the north- the country rose as one man against the
ern and southern districts. Thedisturb- hateful sovereignty which had been im-
anee in Spain undoubtedly contributed posed upon it. Hugo's mother was in
somewhat to make the authorities of the the great retreat from Spain when Joseph
Second Empire in France nervous and Bonaparte was summarily expelled and ;
suspicious. It was believed by no one there is no more disastrous withdrawal

iu the Imperial party that intelligent Re- of troops from an unsuccessful campaign
publicanism was strong enough in either in French history than was this. Welling-
France or Spain to establish itself ; but ton and his men had driven the French
troops back upon the Kbro. Napoleon so ruthlessly shattered. The cultivated
bad come to the aid of his brother, had ami ambitious Liberals of Spain found
been conqueror at Burgos and Tudela, the ail' unhealthy for them, and pined
bad even entered Madrid and summoned away in voluntary exile in foreign cities ;
the authorities to give him up the sword or if they ventured to conspire, or to

which Francis I. had lust at Pavia. But think and speak freely against the rotten
all this was in vain. The guerillas kept condition of the country, they incurred
up their redoubtable warfare, and, al- heavy penalties. The bouse of the
though Saragossa succumbed before the Bourbons, which had reigned in Spain
tremendous attack of Lannes, Napoleon since 17oil, with the slight interregnum
had to own that he was fairly beaten; caused by the intervention of Napoleon
and in 1813, Spain, after live years of and his brother, was destined to meet
most horrible convulsions, put Ferdinand with strange adventures. After Queen
VII. upon the throne. lie was a despot, Isabel had been on the throne for a
and was soon surrounded by conspiracy, quarter of a century, in l.sr„S a revolu-
was frightened into taking an oath to the tion, which had been long foreseen by
Liberal constitution which had been pre- the wise men of all countries in Europe,
pared in 1 <S 1 2 and liberty was springing
, broke forth with resistless power. Of-
up when the nobles banded together and ficers of the army, who had been exiled
stifled it in its cradle. because of Liberal sentiments, gave the
There was a revolution, but the sov- signal for this great revolt against mon-
ereigns of Europe saw that it would not archy by a daring incursion into Spain.
do to let Liberal ideas blossom in Spain, The populations in the cities of the
and so one huudred thousand Frenchmen South suddenly rose in revolution, and
reestablished Ferdinand VII. in his ab- the Queen, after sending away so much
solute power. When this monarch died, of her fortune as she could realize has-
in 1833, a civil war of succession broke tily to banks in Paris and London, fled
out. Then came Doha Isabel, who was to St. Sebastian. A great joy seemed
proclaimed as Queen under the tutelage to run through the peninsula, and proc-
of the queen-mother Maria Christina, and lamations were posted in the cities and
Don Carlos, the brother of the King, was in the towns, calling the people to arms.
excluded. In 1833 the queen-mother The parties unexpectedly coalesced. The
gave to her people a constitutional char- exiled generals returned, and organized
ter, —
a kind of weak compromise be- troops in the provinces. Prim and his
tween absolutism and liberalism, and — men appeared in front of Cadiz, and
she hoped that this would strengthen her took the town. Concha, whom Queen
position. Meantime Don Carlos was Isabel had made her prime minister,
knocking furiously at her palace gates. took the most energetic measures in
What bloodshed, what anguish, have vain. All that the frightened queen
been caused by this Carlist faction dur- could secure was a promise that she
ing the last half-century ! might reenter Madrid without molesta-
Dona Isabel's reign was neither better tion if she would leave her favorite Mar-
nor wiser than that of many of her prede- fori behind. Doha Isabel said no; she
cessors. Espartero and Narvaez in turn would not give up her favorite. She
exercised their power on the country then received the news that a " provi-
which had seen its Republican ideals sional government " had been formed at
;
Madrid, and she crossed the frontier thissame exciting year of 1868 each ;
into France, where she was offered a was gifted with tremendous audacity
refuge in the hospitable town of Pan. each was entirely reckless of conse-
Then came the fall of the Bourbons in quences to himself and each sowed seed
;
Spain. Universal suffrage was voted. from which was afterwards reaped an
The Jesuits were expelled from the abundant harvest of good for France
country, and .Spain had entered into a and Spain. Despite Castelar's eloquence
Republic with the spilling of less blood and his almost superhuman exertions,
than is customary at a bull-fight. The at the general elections for the Cortes in
revolutionary chiefs announced their de- the spring of 1869 only thirty-five Repub-
termination to give up their powers to licans were elected. This was a minority,
the Cortes, and Europe marvelled at the and a decision not unlike that which in
wisdom of a country usually so turbu- 1869, in the French Corps L4gislatif,
lent in its politics. caused Napoleon III. and his minis-
This produced an immense impression ters so much trouble. Castelar dashed
in France but the press did not feel at
; into the attack upon the government
liberty to draw any conclusions from with the same energy that he had dis-
the Republican triumph in Spain. At played in his campaign throughout the
the elections which followed the revolt country. Heasked for amnesty for all
of 1868, a monarchical majority was political offences, and again demanded
sent to the Cortes, and Marshal Ser- the establishment of the Republic. In
rano was made Regent, until, so said this same spring, too, he began his fa-
the monarchists, " a good king can be mous assault upon religious fanaticism,
found." It was at this time that Cas- which had so long been the curse of
telar appeared upon the scene of Span- Spain. He won his battle, and liberals
ish politics. After the patriot Orense, throughout Europe rejoiced when the tele-
who had for a long time enjoyed the graph announced, one morning in April,
honor of being the onby veritable Span- 1869, that Spain had at last granted lib-
ish Republican, he took the direction of erty of public worship ; but although the
the Democratic party, and came boldly great man was powerful enough to thrill
forward to demand of the provisional to its very marrow the populations of

government the immediate proclamation Spain, with his resounding language,
of a Spanish Republic. and to strike terrror into the hearts of
General Prim and Marshal Serrano, the reactionists who ventured even to
who had opposed the Bourbons only that apologize for the horrors of the Spanish
they might get possession of power and Inquisition ; although he was popular
place upon the throne a king that suited enough have the right of citizenship
to
them, repelled Castelar's proposition. conferred upon him by more than five
Then the genius of the Spanish orator hundred Spanish towns and villages, —
began to declare itself. He made a he was without success in attacking the
grand tour through all the principal cit- law which definitely established Marshal
ies of Spain, and in each of them made Serrano as Regent.
ringing speeches in favor of the cause of Yet, day by day, the republican move-
liberty and of republicanism. ment spread in wider and wider circles
Castelar and Gambetta made their throughout the country and when the
;
definite entry into public notoriety in government of the Regent was bold
58 EUROPE IN STollM AND CALM.
enough to announce that it was search- madly. Biarritz was then the most
ing Europe for a new king for Spain, fashionable of French watering-places.
the revolution, which had been prepared It was the custom to stop at Bayonne,
by Castelar's subjects, burst forth with a the old town which gave the bayonet its
violence and savagery quite different name, and to drive over to Biarritz in
from that of the outbreak in 18G8. diligences, drawn by hardy little mules,
First the crown was offered to an ex- imported from beyond the Spanish
king of Portugal, who refused it then ; frontier.
to the little Duke of Genoa, Prince of Eugenie loved Biarritz and made its
the House of Savoy. For a few days fortune. Napoleon would never have
the candidateship of this boyish duke, thought of going so far south to build
who was Harrow, in
then at school at an Imperial residence; but the Spanish-
England, seemed to have some chance born Imph'atrice made her Todos, as she
in its favor. Castelar ami the other Re- called him, build a beautiful palace by
publicans informed their supporters that the southern sea. The route from
they might soon expect to see a king Biarritz winds over high hills, among
brought to Madrid ; and then came the avenues of poplars, which cast their
uprisings in Catalonia and in Andalusia, friendly shades to protect you from the
anil the splendid protest against king- glaring sun. Suddenly the beauty of
ship at Saragossa and Valencia. But the romantic coast of the Bay of Biscay
here the movement was checked. Va- bursts upon the view. Pretty villas dot
lencia, besieged and bombarded, hail to the hills and peer out of luxuriant
surrender at the end of nine days' vio- foliage. I found plenty of amusement
and Castelar, who, it is said,
lent battle, on the beach, in watching the Spaniards,
had secretly based his hopes upon the who went in to bathe with their cigars
success of the insurrection, contented in their mouths, and who practised with
himself, for a time, with the withdrawal much dexterity the art of keeping their
of the proposition to make the Duke of heads unwet by the highest waves.
( tenoa king. Long trains of mules, loaded with
Curious to see the revolution which screaming and laughing ladies, were
1 fancied would result in the definite driven into the most furious part of the
foundation of the Republic in Spain, I surf, and there the beauties amused them-
crossed the Pyrenees, and was an eye- selves by holding on as long as they
witness of many episodes of the combat. could against the incoming crests. Biar-
Early in October, in 1869, I left Paris, ritz is still a favorite result for the
where the Opposition to the Empire had French and Spanish aristocrats. The
suddenly assumed formidable propor- railway scarcely disturbs the tranquil
tions, and went to Madrid. Before en- seclusion of the place. Towards evening
tering Spain paused at Biarritz, where,
I a. charming silence pervades the town;
two years before. Bismarck had come to cool breezes blow inland; semi-tropical
pay his homage to the Empress Eugenie. trees hide the green, delicately-veined
It was still the bathing season in the insides of their leaves, not to turn them
late southern autumn, and I sat down till the morrow's dew invites. The peas-
upon the sand near the sleepy surf, and ants gather in groups, and softly sing
watched the bathers coming and going, melodies in patois to the gentle music of
singing merry songs, and gesticulating the guitar ; and under the awning of the
EUROPE tN STORM AND CALM. 59
green-latticed cafes the Spanish peddlers, are no longer the same. The grave and
who have trudged up from Burgos, or earnest Basque, ignorant but conscien-
Valladolid, offer blankets, long knives tious and virtuous, salutes the stranger
with beautifully carved handles, and with solemn courtesy. Here and there.
scent-bottles from Tangiers. are touches upon a relic of the abortive
On the Spanish coast at San Sebas- campaigns of successive Don C'arloses.
tian, where Dona Isabel went in her Priests saunter slowly by, smoking cigar-
ettes, and lazily swinging their
umbrellas. The fields have a neg-
lected look. San Sebastian is a

delightful little city, coquettish,
fresh, flooded with brilliant sun-
light, set down at the base of lofty
mountains whose peaks shine like
blocks of crystal. It extends from
the pretty bay of La Concha, at
the mouth of which is the island
of Santa Clara, to the mouth of
the Urremea river. Seaward from
PROCLAIMING THE SPANISH REPUnLIC.
flight, the sport of bathing goes on until the promontory of Bilbao to Biarritz one
even the days of November. From
first sees the waves lap the crags and masses of
Biarritz to San Sebastian is but an hour's stone, whose yellow and reddish colors
ride by diligence, but in that hour the contrast strangely with the white foam
traveller feels as if he had in some un- dashing now and then over their summits.
accountable manner left Europe behind Near San Sebastian one finds valleys fullof
him. Architecture lias changed; the shade and mystery deep gorges through
;
costumes of the people by the wayside which bridle-paths wind in perplexing

are different ; manners, speech, gestures, fashion ;
pinnacles from which ho can
;
look up to mightier pinnacles beyond. that thedonkey drawing the primitive

Priests, smugglers, muleteers, peasant- plough has to press his feet and slide
girls in red and yellow petticoats, gra- down the furrows, dragging plough and
ciously salute the wanderer and if one ;
peasant after him. Agricultural imple-
stops at a roadside inn he is treated with ments are of the simplest character. The
utmost consideration and honesty. plough is a straight piece of wood shar-
On this my first journey to Madrid, pened at one end, and fastened roughly to
I thought the railway ran through one a rude harness. Donkeys and dwarf,
of the most picturesque and impressive yellow-colored oxen do all tin; work of
countries in the universe. Just before teams. The shepherds along the road
arriving at Irun, the frontier town, archi- look two or three centuries out of place,
tecture had changed as rapidly as the as their costume has hardly undergone
combinations in a pantomime. The any change since the time of Philip II.
houses of southern France, well built of I did not stop at Miranda or at Bur-
solid carved stone and with four-cornered gos on this journey ; but in later years
steep roofs, were exchanged for the glar- I learned to wonder at the incomparable
ing white walls, generally out of repair, richness of the facade of the Burgos
and the low and sloping roofs of Spanish cathedral, on every square on the walls
dwellings. From Irun to Burgos the of which are the marks of the genius of
scenery was of the wildest. The road the great sculptors of the thirteenth cen-
traverses yawning valleys, runs along the tury ; and I could not help marvelling at
edges of precipices, plunges into sombre the curious taste which placed this Cath-
anddeserted plains, winds through passes olic wonder in this arid country, where a
cut out of the solid rock, and pierces the cold wind, half the year, chills the very
hearts of the mountains sixty-nine times marrow. Approaching the environs of
before it reaches the environs of Madrid. Madrid I was struck with the desolate
Everywhere the beautiful has a mixture character of the country. Here were
of rugged grandeur in it. Tunnel suc- pine forests huge rocks which overhung
;
ceeds tunnel, under great balustrades narrow paths along mountain sides
perched on rude, deep-ribbed layers of caverns in which brigands might hide ;
the hardest rock. Sometimes the railway little torrents leaping over precipices
line winds* along an embankment which close to the railway. Here were plains
gives the traveller a glance up some tre- tilled with rocks shaken into strangest
mendous defile, at the end of which blue forms by volcanic action, and high crags
ranges of mountains melt softly into the shutting out the sunlight. Shortly before
bluest sky. Through the defile winds a arriving at the Escurial the route passes
white strip of road, fringed with foliage, Las Navas, one of the vilest and most
and enlivened by a string of mules, car- dangerous little places in Spain, as I
rying merchandise to the nearest town. found in an excursion from Madrid.
The posadas and haciendas are dirty, and The houses in Las Navas are built of
the sills of the windows are stained with coarse stone, rudely carved. Black swine
the refuse thrown carelessly out of doors ;
wander freely in and out of them. The
the walls are hung with tobacco-stalks people are grossly ignorant ; dozens of
and flags, and the pig reigns supreme in them confessed to me that they had
the front door. Some of the mountain never visited Madrid, that they knew
sides which are cultivated are so steep nothing of and as for reading
polities,
EUROPE US' STORM AND CALM. 61
and writing, they were not oven ac- proceeds across the rocky and uninvit-
quainted with any one who possessed ing country between the main line of
these extraordinary accomplishments. rail to Madrid and the Escurial. Leav-
At Madrid, girls brown as Arabs of- ing the comfortable first-class carriages
fered to the traveller fresh milk in little to plod across the waste is not very
clay pots. A hunter strolled by with a agreeable, but one is well repaid by the
hare upon his shoulder, and proposed to treasures within the walls. The shep-
sell it. A hare may be had for ten cents. herds, beggars, and priests, who are
THE ESCURIAL, NEAR MADRID.
A blight seems to overhang the whole the only persons one encounters, answer
country round about. As I wandered questions civilly, and point out the cross
through these plains towards the frowning perched on a high rock which marks
Escurial, one dark October day, I could the spot where Philip II. 's dreadful or-
not help thinking that a curse had fallen ders were carried out, where wretches
on the where Philip II. lived,
locality were hanged almost daily beneath the
prayed, and sang praises to the God lowest bit of rock. Until a few years
whom he offended while he fancied him- past bits of whitened cord, which crum-
self most zealously serving him. The bled as they were dug up. might still be
impression of blight is heightened as one found.
02 EXJROrE IN STORM AND CALM.
A winding road between high rocks, surrounded with gilded bronze statues of
clothed in brown moss, leads one to a Charles V. and Philip II. queens and ;
ruined square, where a dismantled church infantas, kneeling with closed hands and
rears its forlorn front. A few steps up upturned eyes ; (he stalls in precious
a steep hill, beside a wall, bring one to woods; the missals, tilled with Gothic
a. whence he can see the Eseurial,
point vignettes ; heavily and coarsely decorated
with its immense dome, and the four ceilings — produce an effect of confused
gloomy towers rising at the angles. magnificence. In the small chapel in the
Philip II. built this edifice in the mid- rear the eye is dazzled by Iienvenuto
dle of the sixteenth century, to replace incomparable sculpture in white
Cellini's
the church of San Lorenzo, which was marble of " Christ upon the Cross.'' In
demolished by cannon-balls during the the sacristy are innumerable paintings,
siege of San Quentin. The cynical which chill the imagination, but lead
imagination of the over-religious archi- one to admire the artists. The painting
tects of the period could devise no by Claudio Cocllo, representing (he pro-
better form for immense monastic
this cession which received the Holy Host
palace than that of the gridiron upon sent to Philip by the Emperor of Ger-
which the unhappy Lawrence suffered many, is astonishingly rich in color.
martyrdom. The four towers are sup- Wandering through a, labyrinth of
posed to represent the feet, and the royal cold and gloomy corridors one at last
apartments the handle, of this frying- reaches a little staircase by which he may
instrument. Gloomy and unimpressive climb to the dome of the Eseurial and
gardens stretch away on all sides to look over the vast plain. Ear away out
stone walls, which border greenish ponds of an indistinct mass of buildings rises
and lakelets. the roof of the Royal Palace in .Madrid.
The entrance to the edifice is wonder- To the left one see>. a dense forest . with
fully impressive. A massive gate leads a few straggling hamlets on its edge,
into the great gardens, bringing one face and at the base of the monastic palace's
to face with a portico of severe simplic- thick and frowning walls lies a village,
ity. At the summit of Dorie columns its precipitous streets paved with stones
arc six mighty caryatids, representing set on end. A few wretched trees strug-
1li" six Kings of Judea, supporting a tri- gle for existence in the market-place.
angular portal of immense size. Out of a At a stone fountain's basin, a bevy of
block of granite the principal staircase is laughing girls are filling water-jars, and
cut. Tin' church, decorated with Luca some dejected-looking donkeys are
Giordano's daring frescoes, reminds one greedily drinking and whisking their
of the many curious freaks of which tails.
artists were guilty during the decadence The Pantheon of the Spanish Kings,
of the Italian school. Luca's tranquil the great vault of the Eseurial, where
colors and highly executed designs lie tin' mortal remains of the mighty
show clearly (he struggles of a great Charles, of Philip II.. HI., and IV..
artist to rise above the follies and fail- of Charles II. and Charles III.,
ings of his epoch. The rich reliquaries ;

of the Queens Isabella and Margaret,
the delicately chiselled coffers in which and Elizabeth of Bourbon, is an un-
repose the bones of saints ; the massive wholesome cellar, from which one is
altar, built of jasper and marble, and glad to escape into the opcu air. Even
the sublime and pathetic figure of Christ, chambers, or seated in the niche which
which surmounts one of the altars, seems permitted him to hear mass without en-
to bring no ray of tender hope, no tering the chapel, muttering his prayers,
blessed promise of immortality, into this and nursing his gouty limb, as he sup-
royal charnel-house. It is impressive ported it upon a velvet cushion. One
and repulsive at once to look from the could fancy him seated before his little
present into the past, as one does in wooden table, brooding over the papers
peering into the sarcophagus of one of containing secrets of the state, and
tue greatest of emperors. At the time could almost see his face with grayish-
of my visK one could see under the blue eyes, with thick and protruding
glass lid which sealed the cotlin of under lips, with lean and bony cheeks
Charles V. the bod}* of the royal covered with livid skin, with little ears
dead man, but partially covered by its which caught the slightest sound, with
shroud. The face was still in an al- his ugly chin concealed beneath a sym-
most perfect state of preservation. One metrical beard ; or one seemed to see
nostril and one of the ears, for the eyes him musing in his quaint old chair, its
had crumbled because of contact with back studded with copper nails, riveted
the air, when the historic cotlin was in the leathern bands and to watch him
;
opened, were still visible, and fragments as his hands wander over the breast of
of the reddish beard still clung to the his velvet doublet feeling for the chap-
chin. Philip II. the Terrible is securely let, which so rarely quitted his person.
shut in a black marble sarcophagus, This mocking spectre of
terrible
ornamented only by a plain plate bear- Philip the Tyrant seems to pursue the
ing his name. One is curious to know visitor as he roams through the museum,
whether the calm of death gave any to which an uncivil monk grudgingly
sweetness to the imperious face of the admits him to look at the paintings by
monk and tyrant who scourged Europe Ribera, Jiordans, Bosch, and Tinto-
in the bitterness of his malicious zeal. retto,and does not quit him until he has
Seeing all his private apartments left gained the open air and left the village
just as they were when he passed into and the monastery of the Escurial far
the silences, one almost fears to en- behind him.
counter his spectre walking the narrow
—
64 EUROl'E IN STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER SIX.
In Revolution Time. — Saragossa. — A Quaint Old Spanish City. — The Protest against the Reestab-
lishnieut of — A Vigorous Fight. — The Church of the Virgin Del Pilar. — On the
Monarchy.
Way Valencia. — Down to the Mediterranean. — Alicante. — The Grao. — Getting into Valencia
lo
before the Bombardment. — An Adventurous Promenade. — Crossing the Streets under Fire.
A Barricaded Hotel. — Street Fighting in Earnest. — Republicans ami Regulars.
MADRID is usually a disappoint- powerful than you; if not, we will not
ment to the stranger. Saragossa have you." The Aragonese of seven

is a revelation. The approaches to it are hundred years ago understood the value
singularly beautiful. The train left me of constitutional liberty even better than
outside the walls, anil I walked through those of to-day, and practised it more
the olive-bordered avenues, finding with forcibly. When Augustus Caesar came
some difficulty the gate which led into to Spain he lookedupon the then ob-
the main part of the town. As I ap- scure little town as one destined to a
proached this gate I at onee perceived famous place in history, and christened
that thegovernment had at hist got an it Ca?sarea Augusta. This, in due time,
iron hand on Saragossa. The narrow the Goths, when they came to levy con-
and quaint streets were crowded with tributions on the then wealthy town,
soldiers. Olliecrs, in their glittering blue called Caesar Agosta and later came the
;
and red uniforms, passed up and down, Arabs, who softened the name into Sar-
reviewing little squads of men, who. re- acosta, but who hardened the manners
ceiving their orders, went out to parade of the people until they were fittest rep-
to solemn drum-beats in certain sections. resentatives of the haughty rule of the

It was nine o'clock in the morning, but Moors in Spain.
little movement was visible among the So powerful was the city that Charle-
inhabitants. Sunburnt figures stood magne himself trembled when he hat!
here and there beneath the Gothic and paused before her gates, antl, lifting the
Moorish door-ways talking quietly to- siege, went away still bleeding from
gether but when more than half a
;
the scratches received at Roncesvalles.
dozen had gathered the soldiers arrived Then came the Christian kings, slowly
and dispersed them. When Saragossa invading Navarre and Aragon, and at
was the capital of the kingdom of Ara- last, by their valor, they
captured to
gon the people the same
manifested Catholicism the Zaragoza (pronounced
spirit that they had newly shown in this Tharagotha) of to-day. In the city
insurrection of 1869, in saying to their there are but few hints of modernism,
king, " We, who are your equals and as such as here and there a noble square, or
powerful as you, elect you king on the a promenade planted with trees and or-
condition that you guard our laws and namented with statues, or a barrack,
our and that there shall always
liberties, in which the soldiers just tit this time
lie between you and us some one more were uudulv numerous. But these few
EUROPE IX STOR.V AXD CALM. 65
innovations of modernism were soon said to be the only fragment left of
left behind. I plunged into a labyrinth the real pillar. Around this church,
of narrow where overhanging
streets, which stands not far from the banks
roofs nearly kissedeach other, and of the Ebro, was some desperate fight-
where, nevertheless, every house had its ing in this October struggle, and the
balconies in the upper stories. Antonio, blood-stains in several corners were still
smoking a cigarette on his balcony, could visible at the time of my visit.
have tumbled the ashes into the dinner- Here, as in Valencia and elsewhere,
plate of his neighbor, tranquilly eating the collision between the peasantry, who
under his awning across the way. The had invaded the town, and the soldiers
shops are all very primitive in their representing the monarchical govern-
character, and some of them Oriental in ment, was brought on exclusively by the
their disdain of modern furniture. Many demand of the soldiers that the peasants
of the houses in the town are so old should lay down their arms. Most of
that they are propped up with huge the peasants had been successful in their
beams. The great cathedral of Our determination to retain their weapons,
Lady of the Pillar, known as one of the and had retired with all the honors of
most celebrated Catholic shrines in the war. But a few had been taken, and
world, has shown much evidence of the picture of the march of these prison-
crumbling, and the devotees nearly died ers through mute, solemn Saragossa
of fear lest it might fall during the clings in my memor}'. The people had
cannonading of the October revolu- postponed the festival annually held to
tion. The history of this church is most honor their patron saint, because the
remarkable. All the inhabitants who aroma of blood still lingered over the
believe in their religion believe also that town. At the very portals of their
" Our Lady of the Pillar " was founded church were dark stains, telling of
by St. James, the traditional Santiago, human sacrifices. At the Duke's gate
forty years only after the beginning of curious crowds were lingering, wild-
this Christian era. The old legend is eyed, round the spot where a general
still preserved in these words: "And and a dozen soldiers had fallen, pierced
Jesus said, '
My dearly beloved mother, by the bullets fired by workmen from a
I wish you to go to Saragossa, and order priest's house. The government of
St. James to erect a temple in your General Prim was disdainfully releasing
honor, where you shall be invoked for the few prisoners which it had taken.
all time.' " This divinely imposed duty In front marched a dozen stalwart sol-
St. James is supposed to have duly ac- diers bronzed, dirty, and fierce behind ;
complished before his famous pilgrimage straggled perhaps two hundred insurrec-
to Jerusalem, and the church has grown wives running beside them,
tionists, their
to gigantic proportions from the acorn of embracing them or weeping in sileut joy.
the little chapel and pillar, on which the A weird, fantastic set were these fellows,
Virgin's figure was raised, so says the with a tinge of the old Arabic blood in
legend, eighteen hundred years ago. their veins. The government had given
The dark-eyed women, as well as the them back their long knives, which were
lame, lousy, and dirty old beggars, of thrust in their sashes, or served to pin the
Saragossa all daily kiss a little piece of knots of the gayly colored handkerchiefs
wood fixed in the cathedral wall, and which covered their heads. They shuffled
66 EUROPE IN STtiRM AND CALM.
forward to the grand plaza, aud before tunate has not crept into this half-
the famous Convent of Jerusalem, whore barbaric country. On the evening of the
Spain's most beautiful daughters spend first uprising in Saragossa a party of
their lives in honoring the Virgin, insane people were passing through the
they were drawn up in grim order, streets with the straw which they had
ragged as Falstaffs army. With dis- been taught to plait into mats and
grace and with rage in their swarthy panniers. One of them, to whom 1 had
faces they listened to the order which the honor of being presented during my
forbade them, under heavy penalties, to stay in the town, had been excited by
take up anus again, and then shambled the news of the lighting, and had been
away to the churches to kneel and seen a number of times in the thick of
silently pray for one more chance. the fray.
Those of the inhabitants of Saragossa, More fighting was impossible in Sara-
the veritable citizens of the city, who gossa. The soldiers swarmed every-
had participated in the tight, did not es- where, and I desired to press on to
cape so easily. New arrests were con- Catalonia. But the railway agents re-
stantly going on, and, when I left, the fused a ticket to Barcelona, saying that
towns-people scarcely dared to open their the road was open only half-way. The
shops. Nearly all the proud Aragoncse rebels had that very morning burned for
who were wounded to the death in the the second time a railway bridge, and
second day's fighting managed to crawl strolling bands along the line had com-
to their bouses and die at home, proud mitted numerous crimes. The last local
of having saved their bodies from the trains bad narrowly escaped stoppage,
soldiers. One man, wounded in a aud I was compelled to return to Madrid.
dozen places, crawled on to the roof of Six of the revolutionary Saragossa news-
his domicile, and maintained from it a papers had been suppressed; the official
deadly tire upon tin soldiers until be 1

journals gave only glaring lies about the
had slain seven. When at last lie felt insurrection, aud 1 returned to the cap-
death's band at bis throat be jumped italconvinced that all the interest now
down into the street, falling heavily centred on Barcelona and Valencia.
upon the piled-up stones, and was used At Madrid the news from Valencia
as an additional breastwork or a barri- was meagre. The sweet Mediterranean
cade for bis companions. This barri- town, the city of the Cid. surrounded by
cade, near the Duke's gate, resisted the lovely gardens and luxuriant fields, was
lire of artillery for nearly two boms. known to be in the hands of the in-
These same 1
men who leaped upon the surrectionists, and the authorities hail
cannons, knife in hand, when they were threatened a siege. Every morning a
forced to retreat to the barricades, perturbed crowd waited at the railway
heaped up the stones and beams as fast station to hear the news, and each day
as they were torn down by the shots. they retired unsatisfied. Trim had
At Saragossa it is the custom, as in suppressed even private telegrams. The
some parts of the Orient, to allow luna- journals were ominously silent, but the
tics, who are not positively uncontrol- military trains were laden. " Impossi-
lable, to wander about the streets, min- ble togo there by rail," said one. " Im-
gling freely with the sane. The custom possible to go at all." said another.
of making prisoners of God's unfor- " Bombarded two days ago," said those
EUROPE IN STOHM AND. CALM. 67
who should have been well-informed. in the backgrounds by mountains barren

" In possession of the insurgents," still as the pyramids, acclivities that rise
asserted the equally reliable. This much superb above yawning precipices.
was known : The rebels were at least The vineyards are numerous, and dark-
eighteen thousand strong in a city of two haired, bare-limbed women are plucking
hundred thousand people; had taken the the purplish-blue clusters of grapes from
great market-place had installed them-
; dwarf vines, that bend heavily under the
selves therein, and refused to be ousted. pressure of the vintage. At mauy points
What were they ? A mad
mass of infu- huge rocks, rising in perpetual affront
riated towns-people, who by stratagem to heaven, are crowned with castles,
had possessed the greater part of the which, in the sun's golden haze, seem to
town, torn up the pavements, and re- melt their outlines into the net-work of
fused to yield. Headed by the republican nature, and to be but a freak of her fancy.
deputy Guerrero, they were well armed The well-made roads, smooth, white,
and equipped. At first eight thousand and suffocatingly dusty, trend away in
troops had gone forward, next twelve serpentine curves to the bases of the
thousand, — many said sixteen thousand, mountain rocks, and are bordered at long
— under General Alamenos. I took the distance by low houses, whose white walls
evening train for Encina, whence a and tiled roofs glitter in the sun. The
branch line leads to Valencia. muleteers and (lie peasant women are
The memories of the next few days singing, or rather droning, while they
rise vividly before me. I can see the ride or work, and naked children disport
mass of staring faces at the railway stain the glow of the morning without
tion, as, iu company with him of famous shame. The costume of the peasants
Abyssinian and African prestige, whose along the route is at first quiet in color
name is like a perfume to all lovers of and sober in arrangement but, as we ;
journalistic enterprise, I take my place draw towards the south and the sea, it is
in the night express, bound fur the shores scarlet, and green, and yellow, in glaring
of the Mediterranean. This is my first contrast, and falling in graceful folds
meeting with Stanley, and a strange one. close to the form.
with the spirit of competition lightly At seven in the morning we come to
roused, so as to bring into our acquaint- Encina, a small junction just below the
ance just that spice of jealousy which large town of Almansa, where the Va-
makes us both alert. In the train are leueian railway branches off. lit re then:
parents, and husbands, and brothers are hordes of soldiers, and on the moun-
going to Valencia, to bring loved ones tains we can see the vigilantes protecting
away from the horrors which are always the railway. The wild-looking peasants
associated with a Spanish siege. So we come up with sneering curiosity, if any
fare forward, past Aranjuez, where there inquiry be made about Valencia, to say
is a noble royal residence ami town, to thai the Republicans have captured it
Albacete. As morning dawns, with that long ago, and that they will never sur-
glorious poetry of sky only known in render. But the railway to Valencia is
Spain, we come into the wonderful region not in order. No trains have passed for
of paradoxes between Albacete and Al- several days, aud skirmishing along the
mansa. Imagine fertile fields stretching line is frequent. Is there uo way to send
miles along the railway line, but framed a message, or to go to Valencia ? Yes !
68 El'ROPE IX STORM AXD CALM.
We may go to Alicante, and along the visiting it, receive gracious attention
Mediterranean const ; from Alicante u from the stanch captain and his young
Bteamer will sail that afternoon. So we wife, whose first trip beyond seas is to
take mwheezy train upon the branch agitated Spain.
railway, and are soon among the palrn- As we steam out of the port that after-
trees. Towards ten o'clock we pass into noon, in a boat crowded with Spanish
a huge ravine between two ledges of jag- officers going to the front, the American
ged rock, the railway running on a nar- banner flutters up to the mast-head of
row bank. We see beyond, at the opening, the William Wilcox and down again in
a bridge over a yawning chasm and a graceful salute to us, much to the aston-
host of figures clustering around it. The ishment of all the olive-complexion ed,
train comes to a halt. The engineer jauntily uniformed Spaniards round
goes back to talk to the guard, ami half about us. Next morning the boat is
an hour is lost before it is decided that lying in the harbor of Valencia.

the figures must be those of soldiers The Grao, Valencia's port of entry, is
rather than of insurgent enemies. We three miles from the city and has itself,
move slowly into the midst of a company a well-sheltered harbor, with a little town
of the civil guard, who have improvised a built along its banks. We land at seven
habitation of boughs at the bridge's side, o'clock,and find the streets crowded
and are watching the structure night and with men, women, and children, whom
day. At last, as we are leaving a little fright has forced out of Valencia. The
station among the mountains, we turn a carriages which usually run from the
curve, and before us lies the placid Med- port to the city are drawn up in a long
iterranean, its purple water rippling softly line, near the avenue leading to the en-
to the shores, and in the distance is a trance, and it is with difficulty that we can
huge around whose top hovers a
acclivity, prevail on the driver to take us so far as
glorious breezy wreath of mist, one of — the outer line of the siege. " The firing
those fragrant heaven breaths, to which is to commence at eight," he says. " We

only the waves of the Mare Tyrrhenian should hardly reach there before then,
cequor can give shape and substance. and we might be shot by the insurrectos."
Below lies Alicante in the slumbrous For eight days the lighting has been
noon. Along he coast, where the sleepy
I growing more severe daily. Who are
surf comes rolling slowly in, are groves masters of the situation? The insur-
of palm. Barelegged fishermen are push- rectos, decidedly.
ing out their boats. The long quay, We drive up a long avenue bordered
guarded by soldiers, runs out to sea ; and with sycamores. On our way we pass
at the base edge towers a gigantic rock many women weeping bitterly, and bend-
with its antique Moorish citadel. Here ing almost double under the hastily
we find that the boat will leave for Va- prepared burdens of their household
lencia at three o'clock, also that the fight- goods. This seems to indicate that the
ing has been brisk there for the last two bombardment is beginning, and the bare
days now a surrender is talked of.
; suggestion of this so frightens our driver
Meantime, in the port, we find a noble that he refuses to go farther, and, turn-
bark, of American build, the William ing his horse's nose to the hedge, invites
Wilcox of New York, commanded by us to get out. Nothing can persuade
Philip Johnson, of New Bedford ; and, him, and we find ourselves in a hubbub
,
of cavalry and infantry, teams loaded At last we come into a long, narrow
with furniture, going out under flags of avenue, leading to a square. Sud-
truce, ami hundreds of people sitting by denly we are pulled into a door by a
the roadside, their faces turned in listen- aud the boy turns pale;
friendly citizen,
ing attitude towards the town. A com- but my companion, who has seen battles
pany of Lancers gallops up to us, gives us numerous, tramps on ahead, aud we follow.
a suspicious glance, aud passes on. Fi- We arrive in the square. We hear
nally we are told to ask permission of a the dull roar away up in the city, aud
certain officer to pass into the town. He the ping of wandering bullets. People
shrugs his shoulders to his ears, spreads follow us with their ga/.c ; but, at the
out his hands, says he will not hinder us, entrance of another long avenue, we
and we pa^s in, carrying our own baggage. hear above us, at the windows, bauds
Our first idea is to seek the Fonda de softly clapped, and soft hisses. Again
Paris, — a well-known hotel, standing in the boy turns, almost crying with fright
the Calle del Mar (the street of the sea) and determination. We cross the square ;
where we think we can learn how far it we try another street, and push on des-
will be safe for us to go. We look for perately. We hear shooting close at
some one to take our baggage, and show hand. We enter still another square.
us the way but every person appealed
; Here great preparations are going on.
to makes a frightened face, says that the Soldiers crowd the side opposite us, but
firing has begun, and that it is unsafe. there is one yawning gap, — the entrance
The suspense mass of
of waiting in this to a street, which no one enters, and no
humanity is unbearable. At last we one stands in front of. We are in the
appeal to a dare-devil-looking boy, who, Plaza de la C'ongregaciou. A soldier
without comments, takes up the travel- stares at us. He sees we are foreigners,
ling-bags, and goes forward. We are and says, in broken French. " Crawl
continually jostled by soldiers, running Dieu! Don't go across the square, or
from point to point, dodging behind cor- you will be shot." But while he is talk-
ners, casting suspicious glances at wining my comrade aud the boy step bravely
dows or balconies above. We have now across the square, and I rush after them.
entered a labyrinth of narrow streets, A soldier at the corner raises his musket
like those I had seen at Saragossa. The warningly. What is it? Something be-
brave boy, who runs ahead of us, bend- yond the corner.
ing under the weight of our baggage, A barricade !
stops short, and compresses his lips, as To reach the hotel we must brave this
he hears a sharp thud around the corner, barricade. We cannot stay in the street,
and sees the soldiers rushing back. We so we make three leaps ; and, as Stanley
are in the midst of a guerilla warfare, turns the corner of the little avenue
where shots are fired from balconies and which leads behind the hotels, three bul-
from house-tops where a chance bullet
; lets fly past, and strike in the Valencia
may meet us, and send life vaporing Bank windows. We are hurried into a
before we can defend ourselves. From back door, amid a crowd of soldiery,
time to time the boy halts, says huskily, and a little French landlord comes for-
" Fuego" (firing), and then, like a little ward to congratulate us on our escape;
lion at bay, turns anew to seek another for the insurgents had sworn to shoot
route to the Fonda de Paris, any one who crossed that street.
We press the poor boy's hand, aud by a Republican deputy lately withdrawn
cannot but admire him. He takes shel- from the Cortes. In and around the
ter with lis for a short time. town are ten thousand irregular troops,
This incident illustrates well the manner General Alamenos commanding. Don
of the siege, and the struggle which has Francis de la Riviera, captain-general,
been in progress seven days when we is a vacillating old man. full of much
arrive ; not a siege with artillery at long caution. The sub-commandant Don ,,
distance, nor one where lines are dis- Martin Rosalcs, is energetic, so says
drawn, but one where every street
tinctly our landlord ; adding that the light which
and house are beleaguered. This ave- has lasted so long may continue for
nue, for instance, is narrow, long, and weeks, or, so strange are the caprices
straight. At
its end is n barricade, and of insurrection in Spain, may be ended
in the houses on each side are at least in ten minutes.
six hundred soldiers. This is repeated The Republicans here, as in Saragossa,
two or three streets further on but away ; arc mostly pajanos, or peasants. They
up in the city's centre, in the great mar- are all of one type, with swarthy faces,
ket-place, and the twenty-eight streets olive complexions, strong limbs, and are
leading from it, the Republicans hold clad in a curious costume, trousers reach-
everything. Long-range shooting is all ing only to the knee, long hose, and s:m-
that they have to fear. Every private dalsof undressed hide. A handkerchief
house is a fortress, insurgent or govern- is bound about their heads, and huge
mental. The landlord takes us over the blanket* of brilliant coloring are slung
hotel, shows us furniture riddled with bul- across their shoulders. They never wear
lets, and his mattresses all in use, to pro- coats, hats, or 1 ts, and are so sun-
tect the soldiers who OCCupyhis balconies. burnt that they look like their African
The side windows look on the barricade, neighbors, or like the Apaches of our
aud near them soldiers are crouching American plains.
expectant. This is in the first story. The barricades are only shoulder high,
In the next still more destruction: mir- made of a double row of paving-stones,
rors smashed, curtains in shreds, and and protected at the top by a. few beams
tables in fragments. We are given a and well-tilled sacks of sand or grain.
room on the third floor, fronting on the But there are so many, each corner being
street we have just crossed. We open made available, that even were the sol-
our window cautiously, and look across diery to reduce one, as, for instance, this
the way. The large stone building is the before our street, they would have to
Valencian Credit Institution. Soldiers take twenty, forty, or fifty behind it be-
are firing from the balconies of this bank, fore they could possess the town. The
and dodging the bullets from the barri- dull, dead roar, that breaks in now and
cade. In the square below, through then on the comparative silence at each
which we have just come, a regiment end of Valencia, comes from the outside,
is quietly arriving. whence General Alamenos is throwing
The Valencian Republicans, including shell into a barricade..Now and then a
the mountaineers, who have come down shot from a rebel cannon comes whizzing
from their homes to protest against the into the square, on which we can look,
restoration of monarch}, are from twelve and we can race confusion among the sol-
to fifteen thousand strong, commanded diers, and .sometimes a faintly pal pi tat-
EUROPE IN STORM A.YD CALM. 71
ing mass, from which surges iife-blood, and meantime get a retrospect of the
staining the canvas thrown over it. By seven previous days.
and by a great number of troops are As soon as the order commanding
massed in the plaza, and we hear inces- the restoration of arms by the Republi-
sant bullet-firing from the adjacent bar- cans to the military authorities is made
ricade. In the square the buglers are Guerrero, the Republican seceder from
sounding the charge, and Prim's Hunters the Cortes, visits the captain-general, and
— the scum of Madrid, yet the most dar- tellshim that he must lie responsible for
ing soldiery in Spain reckless devils in
: any acts of violence provoked by the
dirty uniforms, with straw sandals to order. The barricades rise as if by
their stockiugless feet — come up slowly magic, and four attacking columns,
into line. Other companies fall in be- formed by the military authorities, on
hind, and it is plain that we are to have the next morning, the 8th of October,
a battle. All this time the soldiers do start by different routes for the great
not face death at the barricade in our market-square, where the insurrection-
street. They mass together in front of ists are in possession. The troops suf-
the college in the plaza, and two bat- fer severely by the hostile fire from the
talions go charging towards the centre houses along the way, and are almost
of the town. Those who come running inclined to retreat. But they succeed in
back wounded bring stories of the bar- placing artillery in another square, that
ricades. Irresolute, all go on. The of Santa Cataleua, not far from the mar-
government volunteers, the small por- ket, and demolish one barricade. Upon
tion of the mountaineers who have not this the sharp-shooters pick off the
taken part in the insurrection, have been officers until there is absolutely none left
captured in a body, and their noses have to command, and the artillery retreat in
been cut off, their ears slit, and their disorder.
bodies piled on the barricades. So the A second attack follows, for the gov-
survivors come back trembling with fear, ernment forces are confident of easy vic-
bearing their dead on litters and crossed tory but they are soon convinced to
;
muskets, and it is getting gradually the contrary. A bravo meets the

towards dusk. colonel of the first advancing regi-
As the church clocks are striking ment, and discharges a revolver into
seven the senior bishop of the diocese his face. Irregular firing then begins
and some of the city authorities go to from the houses on allsides, and a sec-
General Alamenos with a flag of truce, ond retreat follows. Yet the same col-
and pray for some arrangement to stay umns and get possession of
finally rally
the flow of blood. The commission is the telegraph offices, not far from the
received with the greatest kindness by Bourse from thence they traverse the
;
Alamenos ; but in their passage through streets behind the market under an ap-
the streets the would-be peacemakers are palling fire from windows and from the
saluted with hisses from many of the bar- roofs. They succeed in occupying one
ricades. No
arrangement is reached, or two of these streets, but soon find
and the commission goes back late in the themselves besieged instead of besiegers,
evening, mortified and alarmed. So we as the Republicans have shut them in on
must wait the morrow in our fortress, every side.
—
EUROPE IN STORM AM) CALM.
CHATTER SEVEN.
The Nine Days' Fiirht in Valencia. — Alamenos anil the Bomhardment. — The Insurgents and their
Tactics. -Departure of the Consuls. —
Picturesque and Romantic Episode. An Interrupted —
Breakfast. - Meeting of the Brothers. —
The End of the Struggle. Scenes in the Market-place.—
In the Cathedral after the Battle. —
Castelar and his Endeavors for Liberty. -Spanish Politics
since 1869. —
Spanish Characteristics. —
The Religious Passion Plays. The Sublime and the
Ridiculous in Religion.
THE third struggle,

tober, occurs when
on the 8th of Oc-
six companies
broken rail routes. They
desperately on the outskirts of the city,
are fought
attempt to occupy the theatres and to and there is much slaughter. The 12th,
approach the market. The seventh de- 13th, and 14th see no actual encounter.
tachment, consisting of two hundred but on the night of the 12th a party of
men, comes up an hour afterwards, the — daring Republicans having attempted a
artillery firing over litem, to carry hy — surprise, they are fallen on and massa-
assault two barricades in the small streets cred. On the 1 4 til Alamenos. receiving
leading into the market. The battle extensive reinforcements, is ready for
continues after dark, and is horrible. the reduction of the city. Then comes
Seventy-five or eighty soldiers are killed the Peace Commission on the 15th, as
during the last half-hour, and this awa- alluded to.
kening the authorities to the fact that Sixty officers were killed in the seven
resistance to the death is determined on, days before our and many of
arrival,
they draw off the badly cut-up troops, them were great the Spanish
losses to
and concentrate them during the night army. Prim's volunteers and one or
at ten different points, four of which are two other fine regiments were badly cut
in the immediate neighborhood of the up. I saw, after the surrender, a group
Fonda de Paris, and a fifth, the Fonda of them pointing out the ambuscade
itself. It is said that there were eight where several of their comrades had been
hundred soldiers killed in the first day's killed. And we had arrived at the ninth
fighting. day of this terrible episode of civil war.
This nitty be exaggerated, although All night the insurgents watch in the
the American consul thought he could barricades ; all night the soldiers sleep on
verify it. The 9th brings no fighting, their arms. Alamenos has got the tele-
but irregular firing all day, the troops graph working to Madrid, and its tem-
being too much disorganized to move. porary station erected in a bull-ring, and
On the 10th couriers are sent to Ali- receives news that fresh troops will be
cante and Madrid to demand re-
to on hand in the morning. New pleas for
inforcements, and the slaughter by the caution come from the timid Cortes in
firing from both sides is kept up irregu- Madrid: but the generals now announce
larly until evening, when large reinforce- as sure to take place at ten o'clock on the
ments arrive. On the 11th forces pour ninth day, if surrender is not accom-
in by steamers and march over the plished by that time, the bombardment
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. T6
>
7! EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
which was threatened when we arrived. The deadly street is vacant once more.
We (-in hum go on our balconies with Flags of truce now appear, and it is ap-
little fear ; hostilities are by mutual con- parent that a parley is going to be held.
sent suspended after sunset. The rough Crash ! a tremendous volley breaks
mountaineers throw themselves on the from the barricade. Suddenly several
sands and sleep, and th<' soldiers of the prisoners are brought into the square,
government are only too glad of respite. and kicked brutally along towards the
An odor ofbodies is perceptible on
< I -;i < 1 prison. It is eight o'clock, and the first
the night For eight days the streets

air. flag of truce is to be sent to the barri-
have not been cleaned; and in many cades. An officer commands a soldier
places bodies are lying in heaps as they to go forward with the white emblem of
fell. Now and then a strange light conciliation. The man hesitates. ll
An-
(lares u)) the sky over towards the mar- da!" ((io on !
), says the officer, striking
ket-place. comes from some burning

It him with his sword-hilt. At last the man
house by the troops.
tired In the pale moves. A bullet whizzes past him : still
moonlight we sometimes catch a gleam he goes on. He

met half-way up theis
of the white folds of a Hag of truce, pre- street by a tall, swarthy youth with
ceding a load of household stores ; some- coal-black flowing hair. The two wind
times a white-bonneted sister of charity the flag, which is a sheet, around their
glides by, bearing a heavy bundle of shoulders, and thus insurgent and be-
lint and bandages. In the plaza the sieger, with true Spanish sense of the
old captain-general sits, near the foun- graceful and aesthetic, come back together
tain, smoking, and earnestly discussing to the square.
the situation with a few officers. The rebel bows gracefully to the offi-
We sleep soundly that night ; even the cers, listens to the terms proposed, —
tramp of soldiers through the corridors "surrender without conditions." un- —
does not awaken us. Morning dawns, winds himself out of the sheet, and turns
fiery-red, warm, almost airless. At on his heel to go back. As soon as he
seven we look out. As far as we can reaches the barricade defiance in flame
see, nothing but compact masses of and bullets bursts from the rifles of the
soldiers. The commotion is intense. men.
Ah! there is the British flag, upheld by Another truce and now ; it is again
the English consul. The English resi- announced that if surrender is not ef-
dents are leaving the town in proces- fected at ten o'clock bombardment will
sion, under a flag of truce. The consul be continued until every stone is blown
shakes the captain-general's hand, and from every barricade. At the same
bidshim farewell. Presently come the time a charge of live thousand troops is
women and children. Each one bears arranged to come up through each
those of their household possessions street. The thunder in the market-place
which they can ill-afford to leave behind. grows louder and louder.
I'.y and by the French consul comes to We wait anxiously until ten. The
our hotel for the delegation of Frenchmen insurgents are now firing round shot,
who wish to leave. The bombardment is and chips of stone, heavy enough for
to begin in half anhour. From the bank two men to lift, fly from the Valencian
opposite, officers look out and direct Bank's handsome front. Despite these
their men. Bugles sound everwhere. formidable missiles the fat old sub-corn-
EUROPE I.V STORM AND CALM. 75
mandant walks across the street, shield- and soldiers from the square. The sun-
ing his licit so that the rebels cannot see burnt windows opposite
fellows in the
it, buttoning his coat, and waving anus brandish their guns with Spanish
other white flag. It seems almost as if enthusiasm. Can it be that the town
we were the besieged. has surrendered? The barricade is
But the sappers and miners, although covered with soldiers, but they are not
we do not know it, are getting into the lighting. Heaven and earth cannot keep
town's centre, and if we could get news the curiosity of mortals suppressed in
in our hostelry, we should learn that such a case. We rush downstairs. The
eight hundred or one thousand insurgents insurgents at the barricade have sur-
have already fled. Alamcnos therefore rendered, — conditions, that they be
counsels his artillery-men to have allowed to go free ; and the soldiers are
patience. At eleven an attack is or- knocking down the stones with the butts
ganized in our square, and just as we of their muskets. We go out and are
are wild with excitement, in anticipation borne along in the press, reaching the
of a battle under our very noses, there spot which, twenty minutes before, live
is a knock at our door. Are we to be thousand soldiers could not have faced.
compelled to fly? A rare and dramatic incident, not with-
No, indeed ! It is the cheeky little out its frequent parallel in our own civil
French landlord, pen in hand, saving, war, is the cause of surrender here.
" Gentlemen, breakfast is ready." The soldiers make the attack, and are
In the barricaded dining-room one falling rapidly, when the leader of the
window is open, and through it we see insurgents hears a familiar voice. He
at least one thousand soldiers crowding leaps forward and stands amid the
through a big hole. We snatch some whistling bullets. His brother, whom
bread and wine, and rush back to our he has not seen for eight years, is calling
rooms and see what we may. A
to hear to him. That brother's voice brings the
wild rush of soldiery, a sound like rapid black-haired insurrectionist to the ground
hammering on some hollow substance, are outside the barricade. He leaps among
followed by cheers too tremulous to be in- the soldiers, clasps his brother in his
spiring, but lather husky and, horrified, ; arms, and weeps and laughs by turns.
we look out at the risk of our heads. The insurgents stand irresolute, and the
The charge is over : the soldiers have key-note of the siege and surrender of
vanished up a side street. They could Valencia has been struck. The govern-
not take the barricade in front. Six ment soldier tells hi3 brother, captain of
men there could keep six hundred at the insurgents, to withdraw his men and
bay, and the bloody coming back
litters they shall go free. " I myself," savs
all
testify to the steadiness of the aim of he, with a charming lack of discipline,
those mountaineers who boast that they 'will respond for their liberty." The
can kill a pigeon with a rifle-ball. two brothers, arm in arm, sit down upon
Again a hill. One, two, three the curb-stone to look each other in the
o'clock ! At least twenty flags of truce face, and to recover their senses.
have been exchanged. Why does not The word that the outer barricade lias
the bombardment begin in earnest? All surrendered has passed up into the town,
at once, as the hour of four approaches, yet there is a violent resistance at the
there is a simultaneous rush of people next one beyond. When we reach it,
76 EUROPE IN KT<>UM AND CALM.
at half-past four, the soldiers arc build- stones on the barricades have their
ins fires t<> burn out the blood-stains. mouths tilled witli bread.
Carefully we go round corners, where a At an angle in the market-place is a
few moments before we had heard little where a sharp corner had
street
firing,only to see the proud Republican been availed of as a chance for a very high
peasants marching away with their heads barricade. Peering through a rent in it
creel, and their rifles tightly grasped in I see a most affecting scene : an old man,
their hands. At times that day the neatly dressed, is standing in the midst
market-place of Valencia had been a hell of the insurgents, who have just thrown
upon earth. At dye in the afternoon down their arms, clasping the hands of a
we arc standing among the insurgents slight boy, whose face is pale with ex-
in its centre, and not a shot is fired. citement. Around tin' hoy's head is
The Exchange is tilled with temporary wound a red handkerchief. On the

prisoners, who can hardly be persuaded "round lies a huge eavalrv revolver, to
to lay down their arms; lmt as fast as which the boy is pointing with excited
they do deliver them up the soldiers gestures. The old man is crazy to get
take them, and pile them in the cellars his loved om son. or ward, or employe
of the strongest houses. The mountain- — out of the horrible place, and urges him
eers arc not to lie urged to surrender to retire, while the little fellow insists
their rifles, as they might renew the upon lingering to tell the story of his
struggle if pressed too hard for con- battle.

ditions. The grand old church of San Blood runs afresh in the market-place,
Juan is frightfully scarred and torn. but it is now from the butchers' cleavers.
The huge portal oyer the statue of the Half-starved people surround the stands
Virgin is rent almost in twain. The in the meat-market, and stalwart fellows
scattered trees in the market-place are slay, and cut again, until they
and cut,
cut in two. A
wooden building is as are "On Sunday." says
exhausted.
full of holes as a sieve. The great the merchant accompanying us, ' the
fountain is almost ruined. There are same insurrectionists who have fought
tenor fifteen barricades in a straight line here will come in market-carts to offer
through the place. The streets radiat- their farm produce at the high price
ing from it arc very narrow, and each one caused by the insurrection."
is doubly and trebly fortified. It seems I have dwelt thus upon this nine
as if no force could have ever taken days' insurrection in Valencia, because it
the position without first destroying the is in a certain way typical of all the
town by shell. civil struggles which occur in Spain, in
The citizens, so long imprisoned, its picturesque features; but also he-
those in the centre not having been able to cause it is entitled to a place in history,
Mv from the expected bombardment, run as being founded upon a vigorous pro-
to and fro. The first thought of the in- test against kingship. It was too full
surgents seems to be for food. They of dignity at its outbreak to be consid-

almost crush the bakers who dare to ered as a, mere riot, and too grand and
open their shops. Many soldiers share thrilling towards its close to be called
their rations with them. How the insur- even a battle. There were more than
gents managed to live for nine days is a one thousand people killed during the
mystery. Soldiers [Hilling down the nine days' lighting, and three times that
EC ROPE IX STORM AND CALM. 77
number seriously wounded. The Repub- cians can never be forgotten.Alamenos

licanos quite astonished the Monarchists, could bombs;
have crushed them with
who fancied that they could so easily but he could never have taken the town
reestablish what they consider the natu- so long as they remained alive. Their
ral order of things after the uprising of protest over, they withdrew with that
18G8. These simple peasants awed and dignity which is one of the imposing
astonished the constitutional govern- elements in the Spanish character. On
MOUNTAINEERS UOIXO HOME AFTER THE SIEGE.
ment. They neither sacked nor wantonly the morning after the surrender we saw
injured the beautiful Valencia!) mansions, regiments marching into the mountains,
some of which are almost fairy-like in and were told that great numbers of
their gorgeous splendor, with fronts of arrests would be made. But we fancied
alabaster, carved inornate and fantastic that our lively friends,who had done so
designs, and with marble, jasper, por- well behind the barricades, would know
phyry, precious or costly stones, in their how to get out of the reach of Alamenos
interior decorations. As a sublime and his men when their feet were on
democratic protest against monarchy of their native heaths.
any hue the struggle of these Valen- Castelar was not discouraged at the
failure of the revolution which he hud •21st of December, 1872, that Castelar
been instrumental in fomenting A made his great speech in favor of the
brief sketch of his political career and abolition of slavery in the Spanish pos-
of Spanish politics from those wild days sessions. This, and bis address on the
of 1869 until the advent of Alfonso may liberty of public worship, mentioned else-
not be out of place lure. Castelar con- where, are enough to make any orator's
tinued to sit in the Cortes, where lie was memory immortal.
one of the most formidable members of In 1873 tin' Republic had a second
the opposition to the reactionary policy triumph. King Amadeo abdicated, and
of the Regent Serrano. In the troubles Republican institutions were proclaimed
which came upon France in consequence by a great majority in the Cortes. The
of her indiscreet interference in the can- ministry in which Castelar held the port-
didateship of the Prince Leopold Von folio i f foreign affairs was at once
Hoheiizollern for the throne of Spain, named. From this time forward until
Castelar manifested his Republican sym- the last days of FS71 Castelar and his
pathies in the most, straightforward followers seemed likely, as the result
and uncompromising manner. When he of the vigorous revolutions of 1868 and
heard of the revolution which broke out 1869, definitely to graft Republican insti-
in Paris after the fall of Sedan, and tutions upon the Spanish nation. The
which resulted in the declaration of the year of 1873 was highly encouraging to
Republic, he drew up and signed with the Liberals throughout the country- A
Republican minority in the Cortes an ad- counter-revolution was prepared with
dress which was sent to the government much dexterity, but it was thwarted by
of National Defense, saluting in it the the vigor of the Republicans. Castelar
triumph of law and the inauguration of repeatedly risked his own life by his
a new era of peace and liberty for all courageous intervention in tumultuous
Europe. In the following October he public gatherings. In the spring of 1873
even went to Tours, where Gumbetta he had laid before the country the pro-
and Garibaldi had arrived nearly worn gramme, and in this programme the
out after their desperate endeavors to ministry declared for complete decen-
organize the defence in the South. At tralization, suppression of Church and
Tours Castelar made a great speech, as- State, the abolition of slavery, modifica-
suring the French of the sympathy of tion of the abuses in recruiting in the
Republican Spain. Like Victor Hugo army, and improvement of the adminis-
he has always cherished the dream of a tration of justice. Castelar and his col-
federal union, a United States of Europe, leagues then resigned, believing that they
which is not likely to be realized in our could lie of more use as simple deputies.
time ; ami he amplified his notion of this and a Federal Republic was shortly af-
union in the speech at Tours. He was terwards proclaimed, after new elections
fine of the strongest opponents to the had brought into power a thoroughly
candidacy of Amadeo of Italy for the representative body of Spanish Liberals.
Spanish throne: and after Amadeo's Shortly after this the new Republic
election, aud during the two years of his was overwhelmed with troubles. The
reign, he vigorously attacked the policy Radicals came forward with the most
of Serrano and Sagasta. It was during extravagant propositions, and seemed
this interruption of the Republic, on the likely to throw the nation into anarchy.
EUROPE IN STORM AXD CALM. 7S>
A Carlist invasion in the north, and a Pavia, with his coup d'Etat, :i weak and
Communistic rising in the- south, the detestable imitation of the original crime
disorganization of the army and an of the same species in France. The
almost bankrupt condition of the treas- Deputies were expelled from the Cham-
ury, discouraged all but Castelar, who ber, and Marshal Serrano and his politi-
had meantime become President of the cal took power into their own
friends
Cortes, and who, anxious to save the hands, to do with it as they saw lit.
Republic, allowed himself to be made Castelar went back to private life with
Dictator. He did for Spain in a few the profound conviction that the Repub-
short months what Gambetta did for licmust wait a new opportunity, as he
France in the trying days of the autumn saw that political wisdom had not yet
of 1870. Out of the complete chaos he been developed in the peninsula.
organized an army of nearly one hundred Towards the close of 1874 he had
thousand men ; he reestablished military numerous interviews with Sagasta, who,
discipline, and punished with the great- as minister, had much influence, and
est severity all breaches of army law. who seemed to favor the idea of found-
By a wise and just system of taxation ing in Spain a conservative Republic on
he managed to reestablish the public the basis proposed in France. But then
funds, and it is remarkable that he did came the revolution of December, 1874,
not get into debt a single penny, yet the proclamation of Alfonso XII. as
found what money was wanted on better King of Spain, and Castelar, disgusted
terms than was ever obtained by the and disheartened, gave his resignation as
luckiest ministers or preceding monarchs. professor in the University of Madrid.
It is scarcely necessary to say here that and departed from Spain on a long jour-
it was entirelydue to his political clever- ney. But in 1876 he stepped back into
ness that war with the United States the political arena, and was elected to the
was avoided at the time of the Virginius Cortes from the independent and demo-
affair. All the time that he was harassed cratic city of Barcelona.
and weighed down with a thousand His programme, then given in his
details of military and civil administra- speech to the voters of Barcelona, is as

tion he had also carefully to watch the far from fulfilment in Spain to-day as it
intrigues and menacing movements of would have been a quarter of a century

the Serrano party, which was already ago. " I wish," said the great orator,
moving heaven and earth to put the son " an organization of the State, in close
of Dona Isabel upon the throne. He harmony ami intimate relation with lib-
went on with wonderful skill, and might erty and democracy. I demand the
have been in power now, had it not been fundamental rights of humanity, univer-
for his own generosity. His desire to sal suffrage, the incontestable basis of
rally to the government of the Republic all democratic government, complete
all Liberals, without distinction of party, religious liberty with its immediate con-
made him the antagonist of Salmeron, sequences, national instruction, and the
who had meantime became the President State independent of every Church, re-
of the Cortes and on the 2d of January.
;
establishment of the institution of trial
1874, Castelar found himself among the by jury, and the faithful practice of the
members of the minority. He at once laws as they are written down."
resigned, and the next day came General At Valencia, as at Barcelona and To-
ledo and numerous other Spanish cities, his head from draughts, or when they are
religious mystery plays and processions told Magdalene rolls cigarettes
that
form one of the chief amusements of the behind scenes and chats with the
the
populace. In the principal theatres of dancing-girls. Sometimes the most mon-
Valencia, the " Passion of Christ " is strous absurdities occur upon the stage.
annually performed. The passion com- In the tableau of the Resurrection, one
bines reverential treatment of sacred evening, in a Valencia theatre, the fiirure
subjects and common-place dramatic of the risen Redeemer, as it passed

effects in the most peculiar manner. through the air, toppled over, and hung
The curtain rises on a scene loaded head downwards, until the person filling
with Arabic decorations. Magdalene the rdle was nearly suffocated. This
is disclosed combine' her long tresses, passion has such an excitable effect upon
looking at herself in a silver mirror, the populace that the bishops of Bar-
ami soliloquizing upon her affection for celona and Madrid forbade, at one time,
the Saviour. Suddenly Judas enters its representation
in their cities. Old
ami tells her of his love for her. She women would upon the ground with
spit
repels him in the most ignominious fash- rage when Judas appeared upon the
ion. Judas departs furious, crying out scene, and if the poor artist were recog-
that he will have revenge. At this point nized on tin' street any night after the
a few of the native spectators warn performance he ran serious risk of being
Judas t<> desist, or they will come upon torn in pieces.
the stage and punish him. The scene < hi the festival day of St. Vicente,
changes. The Saviour is seen bidding his patron of Valencia, the tradesmen or-
mother adieu. Mary is overcome by a ganize lay processions in his honor, and
presentiment of danger, and urges him to the young people of the upper classes
remain with her. But the curtain opens erect platforms in the open air, upon
at the back of the stage, and discloses which tableaux, showing the principal
the purgatory tilled with choristers, rep- events in the life of the holy man, are
resenting the spirits of the condemned given. Every hundredth year witnesses
bewailing their sad fate. " Mother, one of the grandest festivals of the
these souls suffer unutterable anguish." Roman Church in St. Vicente's honor.
are the words of the Saviour ;
" I must Even the materials of the ecclesiastical
deliver them." treasury are in" the narrow
exhibited
All the phases of the final passion Valencian streets. Twelve stout fellows
succeed in regular order, and are often carry a heavy cross, which they are
portrayed with rough, realistic vigor. strictly enjoined not to set down. If,
The flagellation sometimes so alarm-

is overcome with fatigue, they disobey this
ingly real in appearance that the moun- injunction, they are lined, and the cross
taineers menace with death those who are then belongs to the church upon wdiose
applying the scourges. So serious and parish soil it falls. Gigantic figures of
reverent are the lookers-on that they St. Christopher bearing the child Jesus
refuse to be startled from their equa- upon his shoulder, of Methuselah, and of
nimity, even when they see St. John at numerous other saints and worthies of
the wings wearing a slouch hat to protect holy writ, fill the ranks of this pageant.
—
EUROPE IN STURM AND CALM. 81
CHAPTER EIGHT.
Ten Years — Kingship Reestablished in Spain. — Going to a Royal Wedding. — The French Hale
After.
of the Sea. — Marseilles. — Reminiscences of the Pestilence. — Napoleon III. and Marseilles.
Barcelona. — The Catalonian People. — From Barcelona to Valencia. — A Retrospect. — A Spanish
Bishop. — Tortosa. — In the Beautiful South. — In the Market-place of Valencia. — Out of the
World into Church.
LITTLE thought, when witnessing commerce was springing up vigorously,

I these numerous protests against the and defied even the most crushing taxa-
reestablishment of royalty in Spain, tion of the monarchy to keep it down.
that the very question of monarchical Bands of English engineers were explor-
restoration would be the indirect cause of ing the mountain chains, in which lay
the greatest war of modern times ; and hidden such a rich store of minerals for ;
that the son of Dona Isabel would come Spain is the treasure-house of the future,
to the throne from which his mother had and every man, woman, and child within
been compelled to flee in 1868. With her limits might be rich if they were
the vanishing of 3011th go a host of blessed with systematic industry. The
cherished illusions, and the reaction, Carlists had been laughed out
literally
which I should have thought impossible of existence. Their beggarly exchequer
in 18G9, seemed to me, at least, expli- and the protracted nature of their impo-
cable in 1879. It so happened that, extent campaigns had been powerful aids
actly ten years after witnessing the great to the then little army which King Al-
insurrection in Valencia, I found myself fonso had at his disposal. The Republic
once more in that battle-scarred old had come into view four or five times,
town, on the way to witness the second and had gone back again into obscurity,
wedding of young King Alfonso, at the because of the excesses of its disciples.
court where he has so peacefully main- So I was compelled, my southward

in
tained himself despite the revolutions in journey, in 1879, to pocket my illusions,
the south, and the Carlists' wars in the and to confess that, for the present,
north, since the wise men interfered, as Spain seemed wedded to monarchy, to
they said, in the interests of order, and Catholicism, and to the indolence which
placed him on the throne in Madrid. has long been her curse.
History had been made with great I went down from Paris to Marseilles,
rapidity in Spain during the deeade just and thence to Barcelona, that I might
flown ; but the greater events north of on the way to Madrid travel across the
the Pyrenees had dwarfed the Carlists' great stretch of country lying between
campaigns and the Andalusian revolts, Barcelona and Valencia the country over
;
so that they seemed of small interest to which young Hannibal tramped with his
the European public. Yet progress had forces many a time, and which offers
been made. Hundreds of monasteries some of the most striking contrasts in
and nunneries had been closed. In Bar- scenery to be found in Europe. The
celona and other seaport towns a new whole journey from Paris to Madrid by
;
this roundabout route is a series of pict- In the good old stirring times of 1574
uresque and delightful surprises. Per- Henry III. besieged the fortress into
haps there is no change more striking in which the Protestant Montbrun had wilh-
France than that between the northern drawn, after haviDg given the king an
plains on which Paris stands, surrounded uncommonly good thrashing in a battle
by gently rolling hills,and the wild coun- not far from that point. Henry sum-
try of the Midi. Six hundred miles from moned Montbrun to surrender; but the
the French capital one is in a land which latter sent forth a. refusal almost as eon-
seeins to have felt hut little, if at all, temptuous as the reputed response of
the modern influence. These vast fiats, Cambronne at Waterloo. So the royal
covered with diminutive olive-trees wav- and Catholic army sat down before the
ing their shaggy tufts of leaves violently citadel of Livron, ami was just beginning
beneath the rude caresses of the Mistral to think that the Protestants would come
ami these ancient towns, hemmed in by out with ropes about their necks, would
walls which must have been built long acknowledge that they had been very
before Columbus discovered America; naughty and mutinous, and would solicit
these hills, covered with ruined castles the favor of being executed in the pres-
aud strongholds, — are all part of a past, ence of the king, when it was surprised
that appears to have been invaded by to see the said Protestants charging
no features of the present, except, the down upon it; and before it could re-
railroad, which is a kind of anachro- cover from its astonishment it had
nism. The olive-orchards, the old cement been very thoroughly walked over twice
mills, the wine-presses, and the quaint or thrice. This made the Catholic lie-
silk and ceramic factories, are the only siegers angry, and they assaulted in
evidence of trade; yet the populations their turn. Then Montbrun, to show
must trade busily, for the thickness with that la 1
feared them not at all, when he
which the population is sown through had repulsed their attack, came out with
certain sections of this southern France fifty chosen men, and, sword in hand,
is quite wonderful. Every live minutes these gallant fifty-one chased back to
the rapid train passes through towns of their tents the armies of Henry III.
ten thousand, fifteen thousand, or twenty The siege had begun in June of 1574;
thousand inhabitants, — towns where not it lasted with but little intermission until
a building has been erected perhaps for January of 1575, when the beaten and
hundreds of years; where the inhabit- humiliated Henry withdrew his forces.
ants consider a cathedral of the four- )n every hand, up and down the length
<
teenth or fifteenth century as new. The ami breadth of the Midi, from the charm-
route passes ancient Valence, where sat ing coast where the rugged and many-
tlie (anions political council in 1563; colored rocks are bathed by purple and
where Pius VI. died, and where a eel- blue and violet water, to tin 1
fat plains
tain youth, known as Napoleon Bona- and teeming vineyards in the mill st
parte, completed Ins military education, section, arc interesting historic meino-
Valence full of memories of the Prot-
is rials. The term '-Midi" is in the north
estants, and the valiant way in which indefinitely applied to the whole southern
they defended their principles in the old portion of France; but the inhabitants
days; and not very far away is Livron, of the south are as proud of their local
which deserves a commemorative poem, divisions as our own American people is
;
of its States, and the people of Provence to the oracle of Ephesus, six hundred
are noted for their bigoted devotion to years before the birth of Christ. Com-
their fair land. Tell them of the delights merce has been going on in the port ever
and wonders of the great capital, and since that time ; but all the great im-
they point to their orange-groves, their provements have been made within the
laurel roses, their myrtles, their palm- last sixty years, and it is astonishing to
trees towering high in air, their blue hills note what has been done in that time.
clad in garments of vapor, their rich In 1850 the basins and clocks covered a
earth, from which springs with tropical space of little more than sixty acres ;
abundance such variety of fruits, and to-day they spread over three times that
they say that the Parisians have none of area. Liverpool, Antwerp, Marseilles,
these. The Marseillais is confident that and Genoa strive for commercial su-
there is no city so beautiful, so bewitch- premacy in Europe. Marseilles will
ing, as his own. not be last in the race. Its warehouse
Marseilles is a huge, cosmopolitan, in- frontage is enormous; those of London
dustrious, vigorous city, offering the and New York alone are larger. From
strongest and strangest contrast to the this port goes forth the great fleet of
sleep}'Spanish and Italian towns easily the Messageries Maritimes, which pos-
reached from it. The Cannebiere, the sesses fift3'-six steamers, sailing to al-
principal promenade, crowded all dayis most every important point in the East
long with thousands of men, women, and four other great companies own
and children but no one seems really
; seventy-five first-class sea-going steam-
idle This is the French gate of the sea. ships. The Mediterranean ami eastern
On the majestic quays one sees Arabs, seas are covered with craft, plying from
Nubians, Greeks, Turks, and the motley Marseilles and every sunset sees a
;
and speckled peoples of the Orient. No dozen bows which have been washed by
one turns to stare at them. In Paris a the surges of the Orient grating against
black Mollah, in a gown of bedticking. the quays. China, South America, and
would be gazed at for hours; in Mar- all the Mediterranean ports pour their
seilles he passes unnoticed. Paris riches into the lap of Marseilles. Italy,
possesses nothing finer than the Rue de Spain, Algeria, and Corsica are almost
la R6publique in Marseilles. It is a dependent upon her. Cereals, oils, silks,
veritable avenue of palaces, and sweeps and alcohol lie packed in the enormous
majestically over thebrow of a tine hill. warehouses.
On Exchange, fitly situ-
the front of the Marseilles is, of course, Republican.
ated near the water, which brings Mar- All the great cities of France are; but
seilles her wealth, the prows of galleys there are reactionary elements at work
are sculptured in marble, ami remind there all the time. The church has a
one of the origin of the town. How feeble hold in the city. Until a com-
little did the old Phoenicians fancy, when paratively recent epoch the city had no
they came prowling along this coast in church of any considerable dimensions.
their galleys, one day the little
that The great revolution swept away all of
colony, which they were here to found, the principal ones, and they were never
would become the chief seaport of a rich rebuilt. The women are still scrupulous
and powerful nation These Phoenicians
! in their observance of Catholic form, but
started ou their expedition in obedience the mass of the men pay no attention to
the formulas of the church. Perhaps Marseilles paj-s great attention to the
we must except the fishermen, who I rules of health to-day, because she has
believe fancy themselves under the pro- had several terrible lessons in the past.
tection of " Our Lady of Lagarde," who The pest came in the old times, none
has a handsome church on such a eon- knew how or whence, and smote the
spicuous hill that it serves as a landmark population with dreadful force in 17:20
for the home-coming seamen. From and 1721. It Cell upon Marseilles, and
this hill one can look out miles over the did not depart until it hail made eighty
vari-colored sea, and over the hills sur- thousand victims. It is supposed that
rounding Marseilles; hills where vine- the plague was originally brought in
yards and olive-gardens are interspersed an eastern vessel; was never

but this
with tracts of wretched deserts, lit only proved. It was even the custom to bury
for the habitation of (he horrid swine the dead in the vaults of the churches,
that one sees trotting about them. and this deplorable habit contributed to
Napoleon 111. was fond of Marseilles, spread the disease. The Bishop of
and built there a vast prefecture, which Marseilles was visiting at the Court in
is a local wonder, like Monte-Cl'isto Versailles, when the news of the Ollt-
and the Cannabiere. The prefecture break of the plague reached him in a
is in the correct and monotonous style note conceived as follows, and preserved
of the Second Empire. Large and line in the archives of the city: " Monseig-
avenues, bordered with beautiful trees, ueur, — The Hock calls its shepherd,
radiate from it in every direction. God has chastised Marseilles. The pest
The northerner in these southern lands is slaving us. The rich have fled. The
will never tire of studying the popula- poor are dying. The desolation is gen-
tions. The singing workmen and the eral. People believe that they see in
chattering and laughing Provencal the air the angel which slew with the
maidens, with eves like sloes, and plague the legions of Sennacherib.
hair like the raven's wing, and the Come, and die with us."
tawny Italians, who have come to Mar- The heroic bishop left the Court at
seilles in search of the work which midnight lo escape the objections to his
they cannot find at home, —
are all departure which he knew would be made
interesting. The Provencal language, by the dissolute monarch of the time,
when one listens to it from a short He travelled twelve days, with relays of
distance, sounds so much like English, horses, and on the evening of the
with the inflection which is given to thirteenth day he reached Marseilles,
it America, (hat he involuntarily
in The city was indeed desolate. The
turns head when he hears it, ex-
his galley-slaves had been mustered to clear
pecting lo be hailed by an acquaintance away the corpses which encumbered the
or to recognize his own national type, streets. People were dying by hundreds
Full Greek and Latin, this sono-
of on the very thresholds of their houses,
rollsand musical language, when well A kind of leprosy was in the air. The
spoken, by cultivated people, has a bishop marched into the church, where
grace which must be denied to the lay the unbiiried dead, and celebrated
French with its staccato note and to the high mass. Confidence returned to the
Spanish witli its collection of hisses and cowards who had run away, when they
gutturals. learned that their pastor was in the city,
and people came back. The bishop outside his native province. But the
ordered mass to be celebrated a few days city people are by no menus rough or
thereafter in the open air in the very ignorant. Barcelona seems to give the
midst, of the plague; and the church lie to the assertion that Spain alone, of
brought forth all its splendors for the all European countries, refuses to lie
occasion. The bells of the convents modernized. On every hand are spring-
rang; the cannon of the forts thundered ; ing up beautiful promenades and stately
and, when the De us
Adjutorium was in streets around the ancient Barcelona's
intoned, eighty thousand voices took up labyrinthine alleys and obscure lanes.
the chorus. For weeks thereafter the The exquisite leafy Rambla, the grand
bishop, bareheaded and with cross in central street of Barcelona, is one of the
hand, went about, adjuring the people prettiest sights in the world on a sun-
to lie courageous and, proper measures
;
shiny winter Sunday morning, when the
having been taken, the plague soon died yellow leaves of the sycamores seem like
entirely away, and for more than a a golden canopy over the thousands of
century and a half the authorities of men and women promenading with Span-
Marseilles have taken almost infinite ish insouciance. The shop-keeping ele-
precautions against the return of the ment is, of course, prominent, in a corn-
dreaded visitor. mercial seaport like Barcelona, but the
The park of the Prado is one of the people are renowned for the elegance of
loveliest in Europe. It is rather an their dress and their manners. A deli-
avenue than a park, yet partakes of the cacy of taste, which one of the praise-
is
character of both. Noble trees border worthy qualities of the Spanish charac-
it.and from any point on the promenade ter, is observable in the deportment of
one may look around on exquisite villas, the soft-voiced girls, dressed in black,
Italian in architecture ; or densely wooded with the traditional lace veils adjusted
hills, over which a bluish vapor seems carefully upon their glossy braids as
perpetually to hover ; or on naked sum- they accompany their mammas home
mits of rock ; on ancient convents, tran- from the morning service at some one
quil amid their groves; on bastides, as of the many churches. The whole ex-
the country-seats are called ; and, finally, tent of the Rambla, from the water-side
on the magic surface of the southern to the Saragossa railway station, resem-
sea. bles, at noon on a Sunday, a vast salon,
From Marseilles I went straight to in which all classes of society are repre-
Barcelona, where I found the Catalans seuted. On either side of the broad
hut little interested in the royal festivi- avenue run paved streets, lined with
ties soon to occur in Madrid. The land- immensely high, solid houses containing
lord at the principal hotel shrugged his the principal hotels and shops of the
shoulders, and said he knew nothing quarter. Soldiers are a frequent sight
about the king's wedding and I was ; in the large cities of Spain. The sol-
informed that the railways did not find it dier, the priest, and the gendarme, are
worth their while to organize excursion like thepoor in these sunshiny lands,
trainsfrom Barcelona to the capital for — have them always with you. The
3011
the wedding. A queer character is the Sunday parade brings together in Barce-
Catalau of the fields, with his rough lona two or three thousand soldiers,
dialect, his contempt for everything dressed in admirably uniforms of
fitting
86 EUROPE 1\ STORM AND CALM.
lilac coats, red trousers, and green through the stained-glass windows upon
gloves, and these defenders of the mon- the hundreds of worshippers, kneeling
archy are always marshalled by hand- at morning in one of the central
early
some officers. The sellers of lottery aisles under suit tints, which seem to
tickets, and itinerant venders of almost tremble down upon (hem like benedic-
every useless object conceivable, are the ti< 'IIS.
pests of the stranger in Barcelona. The Tt is a far cry from Barcelona to Va-
clubs, the great Liceo Theatre, said to lencia, and 1 travelled thither in company
lie the largest in the world, and the su- with a. tall and stately Spanish bishop,
perb plan for municipal improvements, who in the country of proverbially hand-
are worth careful attention from the some men would readily pass for one of
traveller. The citizens of Barcelona the finest specimens. lie was accom-
have had the best features of Vienna panied by an elderly lady, with a slightly
and Paris mapped out in an unoccupied apparent beard, who was evidently his
space in the most beautiful outlying sister. Had this priest been an army offi-
district of tin' city, lint it will take cer he would have broken a hundred
halt' a century and a population of one hearts before lie gained his retiring pen-
million to bring Barcelona anywhere sion. But there was no trace of world-
near the level of the plan. The Athe- liness in his calm and serene countenance,
naeum Cluli of Barcelona has a thousand or in the deep black eyes, from which
members, chosen from tie' liberal profes- shone a softened spiritual light. Every-
sions. No Spanish city has more induce- thing about his person bespoke an aristo-
ments as an agreeable place of residence cratic gentilitv. completely at the service
for a few months to those who wish of the church. His shapely form
was
mild winter weather. The climate is encased in gown, which
a black silk
singularly soft and free from sudden descended to his plain shoes, and could I
changes. The' last leaf does not flutter only now and then catch a gleam of a
down to the ground until mid-Decem- fine silk stocking as he moved. A low
ber, ami the trees are green again almost linen collar and a black clerical band
before one has noticed the absence of were the only ornaments at his neck. On
leaves. his head he wore a small skull-cap. which
lint I have not space to tell you left bare expanse of brow, with
a rich
all the curiosities of Barcelona: the but few upon it.

wrinkles His lips
strange old cathedral, with its three were thin, and his speech was refined.
vast naves and its subterranean chapel I fancied that this was not at all the
of wonderful richness of design and or- type of a man whom Philip II. would
nament: the' mansions of the Diputa- have liked to have had near him.
cion, built in the sixteenth century, ami The monarch would have ban-
fanatical
enriched with many of Fortuny's master- ished him from his presence, and would
pieces; or the great rambling square ou have replaced him by some one of
which the Exchange stands; or the sterner, fiercer type. I imagined, too,
pretty fountain, around which are grouped that my fellow-traveller, the bishop,
statues representing tin 1
cities of north- would have been shocked, rather than

ern Spain. A striking effect in the offended or angered, if some light -headed
cathedral is produced by the subdued free-thinker had attacked him in con-
and many-colored lights which fall versation, endeavoring to prove to him
that the church is doomed to decay. Southward and inward we went, across
This bishop was certainly one of those the fertile plains just below Tarragona,
who are firm in the faith. For him the past villages nestling among vines and
beautiful forms of madonnas, saints, orange-groves, past wild almond-trees
and martyrs, the sonorous chants of and mulberries, and now the villagers
monkish choirs, and the incense-laden began to look more uncouth and savage
interiors of immense cathedrals, were than those between Barcelona and Tarra-
profoundly touching, and represented gona. The men were clothed in linen
realities from which no weak human trousers caught up at the knee, and their
assertion argument could detract.
or feet were encased in rawhide and straw
I would have given much to have heard sandals. For head-gear they wore only
his opinion on socialism, nihilism, and a handkerchief, colored and dirty. I
a dozen other isms now making- their recognized my old friends of ten years
blind way through this world. I am before, and the same types that I saw
sure that his statements would have fighting behind the barricades in Valen-
been deliberate and gentle, devoid of cia. Most of them carried knives in
wrath, and the fruit of honest conviction. their beltsand blankets slung over their
If he had been told that he and his shoulders. When they engage in a
were standing obstacles to modern quarrel they cither whip the blanket
progress in Spain I am confident that around their loins or over one arm, using
he would have answered, with a winning it as a protector against the dreadful
smile, that progress must bow before thrusts which all of them know how to
the immutable, omnipresent, all-power- give with the knife. The women are
ful church. was so interested in the
I dressed as simply as the men, and some-
bishop that I forgot to look atTarragona ; times wear so little clothing that it quite
but just beyond it there were exquisite astonishes the stranger from more deco-
bits of scenery here and there, gardens
: rous regions.
through which soft breezes were blow- At Tortosa I lost my companion, the
ing, lazily moving the leaves of the bishop, a mighty crowd of black-frocked
semi-tropical trees ; bits of oriental greeu and rotund clerical gentry coming down
framed inrugged rock a superb bridge,
; and bearing him off most reverently to
with its squat arch of red, standing out some Episcopal residence. 'Hie sister
in fine relief against a brilliant back- with the dimly perceptible beard occu-
ground of green, —a bridge named, it pied herself with the parcels, and the
is said, after the devil, although I bishop departed with a sonorous " Fare-
suppose his grace, the bishop, would well." which had all the unctuous flavor
have been puzzled to tell me why the of a benediction.
structure, which dates back to Hannibal, The tram passed through a stone-
should be devoted to his Satanic majesty. strewn plain, where grew scarcely herbage
How little the warriors who spurred up enough for the flocks yet every mile
;
and down these fields with Hannibal or two were sheepfolds skilfully con-
dreamed that some day a demon with structed of stone and earth, so that the
its belly full of steam would draw trav- fierce winds which sometimes rage there
ellers across the lands from one city to could not tear them down. As we left
another, in less time than it took them to Tortosa we caught a glimpse of a long
go half-a-dozen leagues ! street, winding up a steep hill, and in
the middle of this avenue swepl by the nessed. Oddly enough, Stanley was at
penetrating sun we saw three figures, this place exactly three years after the
which sum tip the civilization of Spain, insurrection of 1869, and saw a second
One was a soldier, the second a priest, fight, much like that which we had seen
and the third a peasant, looking enough together. That night I had visions of
like a bandit to have been garroted on battle whenever the night-watchman,
suspicion. There were mysterious bal- who insisted <>u passing every hour
conies protruding from still more mys- through the narrow street and yelling
tenons houses; shady alley-ways, in forth his protest that all was serene,
which roses were growing in the open would let me net a momentary nap.
air; cool nooks, where the old women This wretched watchman, with lantern
sat spinning, here and anon, in the and spear in hand, ought to have been
kaleidoscopic vision that we had of garroted for shrieking " Las doee de hi
Tortosa, before we were trundled out of noche: sereno." "Go home, you misera-
it into the open plain, and began to draw ble wretch, and impale yourself upon
near to a rocky range of mountains. your own spear," I cried to him in
Once past the mountains we were in frenzy; but he shouted on.
the real south, where the fig, the olive, Twelve o'clock, and all serene. Alas,
the vine, the orange, the almond, were yes! — serene in conscious servitude, in
common in the fields, in this soft. De- slavery to a youthful monarch, Va-
cember weather. The odor of orange- leucia, the pretty city of the ('id Cam-
leaves perfumed the air; the delicate peador, calmly wearing her chains. At
darkness seemed to heighten the value last I went and dreamed that
to sleep,
of the perfume, and to render the foliage the Cid came back to the world on his
even more bewitching than when dis- famous steed, and carried away young
tinctly seen. Elere and there were Alfonso XII. and his palace on the point
superb estates, them lauds
and ileal' of his gigantic lance. About three
lying as incult as they were two thousand o'clock an enterprising cockami a roar-
years ago. The farm-houses and the ing watchman made a combined attempt
adjoining buildings were all fortified and on my slumbers; hut this time escaped I
connected together in a manner which the snare, ami when L awoke it was
indicated that the country is not safe, broad daylight, and under my windows
At Saguntuni, near the rather ugly two children were singing sweetly,
modern town of Murviedro, we found In the morning I went through the
several dozens of old women, who ex- market-place. The square in which ten
peeled to sell us candles, with which to years ago hail seen dead men lying,
1
visit the Roman by night. We

ruins — the steam, as Francois Coppee says, in
declined to stop, and went on to Yalen- his " Legend of Saragossa," rising from
eia, through beautiful vineyards and their blood on the pavement, as the hot
orange-orchards; and at ten o'clock, on sun beat down upon it, — was now filled
a beautiful moonlight night, I was in with almond-eyed, dark-haired rustic

Valencia. A period of ten years had in maidens, shielded under dirty-colored
no way sufficed to soften the horrors of awnings, and announcing in their musi-
the tartana, or native omnibus. I went cal voices the excellence of the fruits
out into tin' market-place and tried to and flowers which they desired to sell,
picture anew the scene which I had wit- From the church, which I had seen
EUROPE LV STORM AND CALM. 89
beleaguered one day and turned into tain fall behind me I had shut tile nine-
a hospital the next, turned forth a cur- teenth centun completely out and away.
rent of nurse-maids carrying bright ba- As I strolled up to the central euro,
bies, and followed by anxious mothers, or vast church within a church, which is
who had been attending some ceremony a peculiar feature of Spanish ecclesias-
for the good of the most Catholic infants. tical edifices, and looked in through the
How bright the babies are in this land opening, which was surrounded with
of sunshine and politics ! They totally sculptured angels, cardinals, popes,
disarrange one's theories about the race bishops, and cherubims, in lovely and
in decadence. Personal beauty of a ro- somewhat incongruous confusion, I
bust, vigorous, and enduring type is as saw long rows of aged priests seated on
common in Spain as flowers in the hedge carved benches, holding books open be-
or birds in the thatches. fore them and singing praises unto the
The cathedral was full of memories for Lord, delivered in solemn refrain. On
me, for I had seen it, ten years before, rolled the stately Latin, until my sense
when the had just ceased to
fighting of rhythm was so excited that I could not
rage around it, and when the wounded, stir from the spot. I tried to count the
with bandaged heads, were grouped priests, but I could not, for in the far
against its yellow and ancient walls. I coiner the shade was deep that I so
remembered how in the holy dimness I could see nothing save now and then
had seen a handsome young engineer, white hair glistening indistinctly, or the
with pale face and huge moustache, kneel- momentary display of a wrinkled face,
ing in an attitude of intense thankfulness patient and serene. 1 wondered what
before the altar, doubtless stirred to his these celibates, sitting in the artistic
heart's core with thanksgiving because gloom of the cathedral, thought, if they
his lifehad been spared. I remembered thought at all. of insurrections and
the mountaineers strolling about the sa- things political ; of Alfonso's marriage,
cred door-ways with cigarettes at their or the insidious workings of the Black
lips, and their gleaming rifles in their Hand. How did the outer world impinge
hands. on their senses? I might have been
I took off my hat, and went in. The speculating there until now, had not
old beggar woman squatting on the the round-voiced singing gradually died
stones pulled back the leathern curtain, away, and the lights grown more and
and held out her withered hand for char- more dim, until it seemed as if the
ity. For a moment, after the sharp veteran chanters had melted into the
sunlight of the streets, the dimness incense-laden air. Presently two or
was embarrassing to the vision ; but three dignitaries, in trailing robes, came
presently my
eyes became used to the out of the obscurity, and, traversing the
place, saw that everything was as
and I nave of the church, went away by the
it hail been for two or three centuries ;
side doors, each courteously begging the
that nothing had been changed in these other to precede him, with as much
ten years. The revolution had come and dignity and deference as would have
gone, but the church remained. The been shown by two courtiers.
revolution had despoiled monasteries and Why do not the mortal remains of
convents, but here was no sign of dis- the Cid lie in this old church, in the town
turbance. By letting the leathern cur- which ho took, sword in hand, from the
Minus? The cathedra] was not begun days later, in Madrid. "No republic,"
more than a century after his death
until ;
said he '•
however durable it might be,
but he should have had a niche here, would be likely to interfere with the
The treasures of the cathedral are count- church in Spain." — "Our country,"
less. There are few churches in the said Don Emilio, with solemnity, "is
world which would so richly repay an in- Catholic." And it is Catholic, because
vading army for pillaging its sacristy, the sensuous temperament, which is so
Gold and silver, and marble and bronze, prominent in even the rudest of the
have been lavished upon it in such pro- Spaniards,cannot permanently escape
fusion that now and then the beggars in from the enchantment of a religion so
the sheets must ask themselves why it abounding in the picturesque and the
is that the good God, who sent his Son impressive.
down to earth to be born in a manger, I had not promised to carry you to
needs so much luxury in his earthly the royal wedding in this chapter, hut we
biding-place, when they are, perforce, will now no longer loiter by the way,
content with a crust of bread, onions for Come to Madrid, which is, in winter, in
dessert, ami more kicks than half-pence ? the midst of the desolate plains, a eold
This little visit to the cathedral in Va- contrast to the warmth and gloom of Va-
lencia enabled me to appreciate mote leucia and its environing valleys,
fully what Castelar said to me a few
—
FJJROPF TN STORM AND CALM. 91
CHAPTER NINE.
Madrid and its Gloom. — The Royal Wedding in 1870. — Queen Christina and King Alfonso.
The Puerta del Sol.— The Church of the Atocha. — Memories of Dona Isabel. — Royal Rejoicings.
— An Interview with Castelar. — Gambetta and Castelar Compared.
AFTER the laughing landscapes of Very beautiful were the groves and
southern Spain, the vistas of blue the parks around Aranjuez. The yellow
mountains, of plains filled with olive leaves — yes. the golden leaves, for in
and pomegranate and the superb
trees, the brilliant November sunshine they
gardens of Seville and Cordova, the seem tinged with gold —
had fallen in
barren hills and wind-swept plains near great masses, and strewn the long tree-
the Spanish capital are far from inspir- bordered alley- ways with carpets such
ing. The sparkling saving of John as the hand of man could not rival.
Hay, that "Madrid is a capital with The valleys were filled with rich bouquets
malice aforethought," is unlike most of The retreat seemed more
foliage.
epigrams, in this respect, that it is quite like the abode of peace and philosophy
true. There Is, too, a kind of ill-nature than like a royal residence around which
in the landscape about Madrid ; one falls revolution has often raged. After
inevitably to thinking of the Inquisition Araujuez the barrenness begins again,
and the cruel Spaniards of the older and the contrast is all the more striking
days. Here and there a monastery is because of tin' beautiful oasis \\ liicl e
perched on a. crag, or rounded hill. A has just, quitted.

few suspicious-looking peasants stand I found the Madrid railway-station
huddled together, as if meditating an crowded with gayly dressed officers and

attack upon the train. Even the bulls with dirty omnibus-drivers. The former
grazing near the tracks lift their noble class was so occupied with saluting each
heads, and gaze at the passer-by with a other that it gave me no trouble; but
kind of latent ferocity. At Aranjuez, the latter tribe was so aggressive that I
where I arrived just at sunset after the was compelled to fray a passage through
journey from Valencia, there was a. hint them, and to threaten as well as coax
of modernism in the architecture; and before I could ensure attention at a rea-
the well-kept gardens and the view of sonable price, even for Spain. Presently,
the handsome summer palace of the seated with a travelling-companion, in
kings of Spain called to mind the mem- one of the large four-seated omnibuses,
orable occasion when the people went which are numerous in Madrid, and are
in noisy procession to that place, to marked " Servicio publico," found my- 1
signify to the trembling monarch of that self dashing at breakneck pace through
time — the stormy days of l.so.s — that muddy and irregularly paved streets.
they had had enough of him. Castelar My had three horses, an old black
vehicle
dates the decline of Spanish monarchy hitched ahead of two venerable white
as an institution from that period. ones ; but when this equine trio started
it reallyseemed as if the prince < if witch- looking down upon the great square,
craft had applied the lash. Away we From below came up a roar such as one
went, nearly knocking down
unhappy the hears when near a camp. This was the
octroi officers, who desperately endeav- roar of the sovereign people of Madrid,
ored to climb up on the steps and in- discussing, selling, buying, threatening,
quire if we had anything dutiable. We laughing, snarling. There is not such
had only time to cry, ii Nada" (nothing), another noisy place Europe, nor one
in
and to cling on, before we were rushing that in the course of a single day pre-
pasl half a hundred tall white and yellow sents such an enormous variety of
buildings. We soon passed the olive aspects. In 1869, during the revolu-
avenucs of the Prado, and were mount- tion, it was amusing
watch the uews-
to
ing the hill of the Calle Alcala. We venders, who possess all the impetuous
firmly expected to be rolled against the energy of their American prototypes,
curb-stones: but the black horse, as if In a few days eighteen or twenty mush-
inspired, tore around every obstruction, room journals sprang into existence in
and the whites sprang after him. Madrid, their columns filled with the
And the l'uerta del Sol? It was a most exaggerated political jargon. Old
vision of an immense square, with a women, barefooted and bareheaded,
vast fountain in the centre, and lofty stalked to and fro, screaming forth the
buildings, with balconies on every side, merits of the Equality, the Discussion,
Ten streets open into this place, and and the Combat. In their wake followed
from each one of them, as we arrived, ragged urchins, urging the claims of the
came forth interminable processions of Impartial, the Diary of the People, the
mules laden with straw, and hay, and Epoch, and the Correspondence. I re-
wine, and oil ; of soldiers in long coats member that, curious to hold in my
and short coats, in white jackets covered hand one of the smallest ami newest of
with silver braid, in blue surtouts and red the journals, I beckoned to an old crone
trousers; of little brown-faced boys, to follow me to a neighboring cafe", there
selling photographs of doubtful morality ;
selected my paper, ami searched my
of old women, screaming forth the names pockets for the proper coin with which
of newspapers ; of asthmatic old men, to pay; but I found no small change.
wrapped to the eyes in long cloaks, and The venerable vender had none, refused
with sombreros drawn over their lean ray proffered gold piece, demanded her
faces ; of priests, majestic in their paper back, and overwhelmed me with
ample robes of black; of cavaliers re- expletives and objurgations. A tall,
turning from the park; of a group of grave Spaniard seated near me arose,
conscripts singing merrily to the music touched his hat courteously, produced
of jingling guitars; and of senoritas of from his pocket the proper money, paid
all classes, morals, and conditions, each the woman, handed me the paper, which
with a black lace veil falling gracefully she had already taken from me, and,
about her pretty head. Every third man when I desired to pay him, held up his
was a soldier, and seemed quite con- hands in sign of protestation. Then he
tented to be such.He was always neat, resumed his seat, ami straightway ig-
and uniformed with excellent taste. I nored my existence.
soon found myself installed in a hand- But to the Royal Wedding! A mat-
some room in the Hotel de la l'aix, rimonial alliance with the Austrian lady
was felt to be an important movement, XII." in gas-jet letters, and upon it was
and was doubtless recognized by the a crown, which when lightedhad an
church as a kind of moral support for enormously unsteady air. By ten
it;for Austria and Spain are eminently o'clock in the morning the masses of
Catholic, and their united action might the people were arranged in rows along
now and then offset the invading in- the whole royal line of inarch, from the
fluence of the northern Protestant palace to the Atoeha church, where
powers in a European struggle.
great the ceremony was to take place.
The aristocratic society of Europe was This Atoeha is a rather inferior-looking
invited to the festivities attendant upon religious edi lice, which belonged originally
this Spanish wedding; and to welcome to a convent of the Dominican order,
the hundreds of fashionable guests, tin- founded under Charles V. by one of his
old Spanish Court brought forth the officers. It was destroyed in 1808.
remnants of its ancient splendor, and Ferdinand VII. had it rebuilt under the
succeeded in impressing every one with direction of the celebrated architect Isi-
the luxury of its ceremonials and the doro Velasquez, and the church served
stateliness of its dignity. The pro- as a Court chapel. The tradition
gramme of the royal wedding comprised requires that the kings of Spain should
a grand riveiUe, or "Diana," as it is go every Saturday to attend service at
called in Spain,»to begin at seven. This the Atoeha,. There is an ancient statue
was on the morning after my arrival. of the Virgin in this church, which is
All the troops of the garrison and thou- held in high veneration in Spain. In
sands sent in from the neighboring towns the chapel, on the left on entering, is
took part in this early bugle call. The the mausoleum raised to the memory of
places of the Atoeha, the Botauico, the Marshal Prim, who unwittingly did good
Tiado, the Calle Alcala, the Calle work for the young king, and whose end
Mayor, the Arco de la Armeria. the Plaza was tragic enough to have pleased his
de Oriente, and all the other principal worst enemies. 1 observed with some
avenues and squares of the capital, amusement that two members of the
rang with the inspiring martial music. corps of gendarmes were sufficient to
Presently came the soldiers, marching control the movements of six or seven
with the long swinging step for which thousand impatient people on the Puerta
they are renowned, and looking neither del Sol. In New York or Paris two
to right nor left. The impression which hundred policemen certainly would have
strangers received was that the govern- been necessary. The soldiers, who
ment was inclined to take no chances on were ranged in rows on either side of
this important occasion, and had made the route chosen for the royal pair to
the "Diana" a pretext for tilling pass over going to anil coming from the
Madrid with troops, which could, if church, were treated with small deference
necessary, overawe any revolutionary by the crowd ; but it was mortally afraid
crowds. The decorations were profuse of the iji ndarmes.
on the hotels and chief commercial es- It was announced that the king would
tablishments, but few private mansions leave the palace at eleven o'clock; but
bad either flags or illuminations. Iver ( this was too much to expect of a Span-
the door of the Ministerio de la Gober- iard, who is never ready at the appointed
nacion was a gigantic "Viva Alfonso time, although exactitude is said to be
the politeness of sovereigns; and it was tion to ms courtesies. As the king's

nearly mid-day when a hum in the crowd, carriage passed the Ministerio de la Go-
and the music of the military bands bernacion a long procession of slate ear-
announced the j"Oung monarch's coming, riages, containing the Archduchess Chris-
The first item in the royal procession tina — so soon to be the queen — and her
was a very gayly liveried gentleman, suite, came into view, and bugles sounded
mounted on a liorse laden with two anew. A thrill of music ran along the
drums. He looked something like the monarch and his
martial lines, and the
advance-guard of a rustic circus. From bride moved on Atocha through
to the
time to time he heat a doleful measure the Carera de San Jeronimo. Nothing
on the drums. Just behind him were could have been prettier than the rich
twelve trumpeters, chid in ancient cos- contrasts of color in velvets lined with
tumes, and next came twenty-two led- silver, and uniforms; and the
banners
horses, beautifully caparisoned. Behind military was quite beautiful.
display
the heralds anil the led-horses were The officials of the Court were legion.
lancers, gendarmes, and a few Court Queen Isabel always had a special
officials; then came a lone procession of affection for the Atocha, and bestowed
state carriages, twenty-three in number, upon the most magnificent
it: gifts.
These ancient vehicles, swung high he- After the events of 1872 it was in this
tween ponderous wheels ami balance- same chinch that one of her successors,
springs, with which not even the misery King Amadeo the first and last, went to
of a Spanish highway could interfere, view tin- corpse of General Prim, whose
lumbered past the throng without elicit- murder had added another and notable
ing a single cheer. It was amusing to one to the long list of Spanish political
witness the coldness of the reception, assassinations. Doha
Isabel was quite
One might have fancied the populace overcome by her visit to the church on
contemplating the passage of an enemy's the wedding-day; and when she entered
troops through its countiy. On the l'u- with the procession, and the patriarch of
erta del Sol not a hat was lilted, and hut the Indies came bowing forward to offer
few ladies wa\'cd handkerchiefs when the her the holy water, she wept, and appeared
king's carriage came in sight. This car- likely to faint. Perhaps she was think-
riage was an enori is structure, with a ing of the fleeting nature of this world's
crown on its roof, and with meat win- pleasures, and that the church in which
dows. through which the crowd might her sou was then to he married might
note every movement of its sovereign, serve in the future for more melancholy
It was preceded by four and six horse ceremonies in connection with her family
carriages, and by a multitude of out- than those of matrimony.
riders, footmen, and jockeys. The dis- There was company in the
a stately
play of plumes and rich silver and gold little The gentlemen of the
church.
trappings, and of housings centuries household seemed numerous enough for
old, was quite dazzling. The king's car- a legislature. There was the suite of
riage was drawn by eight white horses, the Infanta Dona Christina, the suite of
covered with pinnies and with silver dec- ex-Queen Isabel, the first groom, the
orations. The young king was sedate, major domo of sen ice. the Dukes of
and bowed repeatedly to right and left. Sexto and Encedo, and the Count of
although no one paid the slightest atten- Pilar. The ex-queen entered the church
to the music of Royal March, and

the the archduchess and a host of pretty
;
she, as well as the king and the arch- princesses. Dona

Isabel wore a crown
duchess were received at the door by the of diamonds, and a sumptuous mantle
Papal Nuncio, who is a most important covered with gold lace and ornaments,
personage in such a Catholic country as the train of which was upheld by two
Spain, and by a multitude of richly stately gentlemen. The king was in the
robed priests. Among the great ladies uniform of a captain-general, with the
€
WEDDING OF ALFONSO XII.
present, looking intensely, and some of Order of the Golden Fleece ami an
them rather sternly, at the future queen as Austrian field -marshal's scarf.
she came up the central aisle, were the The young archduchess seemed to limit
Duchesses of Medina Coeli, Almodova into the church in a cloud, so voluminous

del Valle the Countess of Toveno Caste-
; was her veil of white, heavily bordered
jon and Viamauuel the Marchioness of
; with silver lace. When it was lilted
Santa Cruz; the Duchess of Fernand- back', her toilette excited a general cry of
Nunez, of Ahumada the Duchess of
; admiration, so rich was it in embroideries
Baileu, wife of him who was sent to of flowers and leaves in gold and silver,
Vienna officially to demand the hand of and laurels and white roses in profusion.
'.)<; EUROPE IX STOh'M AND CADI.
The diadem which crowned her head was Gauls. The delegation of tin belles of 1
of pearls, such as only the Hapsburgs, Vienna, who accompanied the arch- 1
the richest family in the world, can show. duchess, made the beautiful Madrid
The archduchess was mortally pale. women handle their fans with as nervous
Tin' spiteful ladies of the Court said it and jealous an air as if they had been
was because of the weight of the robe stilettoes.
and tin' velvets which she wore. But After the wedding came the visits of
she soon recovered, and arrived, smiling, the legislative bodies, the Council of
at the grand altar, which was illuminated State, and the municipal organizations,
with hundreds of lights and there she ; to the palace and on the following day
;
met the king, who took her by the hand. was held a ceremonial which is seen in
Then came the usual Catholic ceremonial few monarchical countries, the ]!<tis<-
of marriage, the signing of the act, and main, or a defile before the king and
the benediction by the Patriarch of the queen at the palace, and the kissing of
Indies, — -all of which was of brief dura- the hitter's hand by all the represent-
tion. Those who have never seen the atives of all the different branches of
splendors of a Court can form hut a the national was a
authority. This
small idea of the richness of the toilettes brilliant which repeated the
reception
of the ladies who witnessed this spec- splendors of the gathering in the Atocha
tacle. Many of the beauties wore two chapel. The Council of State arrived
hands of velvet embroidered with silver, at the palace in a lot of old carriages,
which are emblematic of their rank and ; which looked as if they were invented
on their glossy braids diadems worth before the time of Columbus, as very
fortunes rested. The mantles, the likely they were. The royal palace is
dresses, the collars, the corsages, were very grand within, though it is not very
all of the richest material. One could impressive without. In the great Hall
well have fancied, in looking at this of the Ambassadors, the young king
superb display of luxurious dresses, stood in front of his throne, with the
that Spain was one of the richest, rather new queen <>n his right, looking very
than one of the poorest, countries in pale and pretty in her splendid gar-
Europe. It is a source of perpetual ments, laden with embroideries and cov-
wonder to a stranger in Spain, where the ered with golden fleurs-de-lis. On her
money comes from for the tens of thou- head she wore a golden crown, gar-
sands of soldiers and officers elegantly nished with costly diamonds. Near her
dressed, as well as for the luxury of stood the Princess of the Asturias,
private and public palaces and mansions. dressed in rose-colored satin, and the
The wedding afforded the chance for a king's two other sisters in faille rose.
grand display of foreign uniforms. Lord Not far from the king and queen st 1
Napier was magnificent in his scarlet, the Court, a brilliant collection of all
and was accompanied by some extremely the ladies and gentlemen of rank in
handsome young Englishmen. The the kingdom, the representatives at the
French Embassy shone like a golden Court and the generals of the army.
star. The sombre blue-black of the The ceremonial required that no one
Prussians stood out in bold relief against should touch the king's hand with his
the splendors of the garments of their or with her hand, but only with the
late enemies, the Austrians and the lips, and that after having used the
pocket-handkerchief. Doiia Isabel re- president of the short-lived Republic

ceived in her own rooms in another he found it necessary to become Dicta-
wing of the palace, and the day finished tor, and that at Carthagena and else-
with a grand ball at the opera. where he had announced that one of
Five years have passed since the the principal needs of Spain was more
wedding, and the young king is still in infantry, more cavahy, and more artil-
his place, although revolution has sev- lery. In short, monarchy finds an
eral times raised its head. The strength excuse for its existence in the assump-
of his positionis due merely to the in- tion that it alone can maintain order.
numerable petty differences of the Lib- When the people cease to believe this,
erals, and to the weakness of the lower and are united, some great convulsion,
classes, because of their ignorance. like that at Valencia, will take place in
Out of the sixteen or seventeen mil- each of the principal cities and districts,
lions of people in Spain not more than and — But we will not prophesy.
one-fourth can claim acquaintance with I have spoken of Castelar, who is
the accomplishments of reading and undoubtedly the greatest Spaniard of

writing. Furthermore, the knowledge his time, and towers like a giant even
of events transpiring in the outside among the celebrities with whom he is
world is so limited that a campaign surrounded. Madrid is filled with

speaker, he were allowed by the gov-
if scholars, poets, and men of letters,
ernment any chance to express his whose reputation ought, although it
views, would scarcely be understood does not succeed in doing so, to cross
by his constituents or by those whom the Pyrenees. There are notable poets
he desired to make his constituents. and romancers in Spain, who are quite
Even rich peasants and men of high the equals, if not in some respects the
rank are grossly ignorant of what is superiors, of their French contempora-
transpiring in their own country. The ries.
perpetual " I don't know," with which The gentlemen who are liberal and re-
every question is answered in Spain, publican in sentiment are grouped about
becomes exasperating to a stranger. Castelar, and at the private receptions in
The facilities for anything like rapid the capital politics and literature are
intercommunication are so limited that carefully and earnestly discussed, al-
the masses mingle but little together. though newspapers and in public
in the
Each remains rooted to his place, sur- halls the government would forbid such
rounded by a flowering growth of tra- license. I was glad of an opportunity
ditions, superstitions, and prejudices. to meet Castelar in his own house, and
Each imagines army which can
that an at one of his weekly receptions, which
act as mediator any important dis-
in took place a day or two after the con-
pute is a good thing, and it seems as clusion ofthe wedding festivities. Senor
natural to a Spaniard to hear the trum- Castelar was not seen in public during
pets sound the death-knell of a short- these festivals, although he is by no
lived revolution as to note the ringing means shunned by the royal family, all
of the vesper bells in the old cathedral of whom have the most cordial admira-
which casts its shadow on his dwelling. tion for his talents.
The monarchists are very fond of re- Castelar lives in the Calle de Serrano,
minding Castelar that when he was in a fine new quarter of Madrid, in one
of those huge apartment-houses which during the revolution of the Southern

the Spaniards have 1 milt in imitation of States against the general government,
those in Paris and Vienna. The orator and sometimes I had to encounter for-
and statesman receives once or twice a midable opposition." This led to a great
week but as he is a bachelor, residing
; debate on the slavery question of Cuba,
with his sister, who has always cared for which was then [lending in the Cortes.
his household affairs, he has only gentle- Castelar said little concerning the future
men at his entertainments. The deputies, of Cuba, except that there was no longer
journalists, poets, novelists, savants, danger of its being a bone of contention
come and go in the most informal fashion. between Spain and the United States.
I found the great orator in one of his He said in the debate he should be found
good moods, when he felt like talking, and as usual on the side of liberty, and in
discovered that when he was in this vein favor of emancipation id' every wretched
everybody listened with reverence and black in Cuba.
attention. There is a rare magnetism in I asked Castelar if he felt, that the
his presence, which is peculiarly fascinat- Republic would come again in Spain.
ing. An impression of superabundant " Most certainly," he said ; ••the country
vitality, an infinite reservoir, from which is republican. The restored monarchy
he canfrecly draw at unexpected moments lias not taken root. Republican princi-
for sudden and unlooked-for inspiration, ples are well enough established in the
i^ always gained from a conversation public mind, but they are not entirely
with Castelar. He is one of the men underst 1. Great numbers of our peo-
born under a happy star. Dowered with ple still have a certain fondness for ab-
strange and peculiar gifts, lie combines solutism." A moment afterwards he
the richness of a poetic nature with the alluded in a jocose vein to the great
forethought and sagacity of a patriot and number of constitutions which Spain has
politician. Perhaps there are those who promulgated within the last two genera-
would deny Castelar the union of these tions. He has a profound contempt for
two qualities, but time will show that he those politicians who fancied that they
possesses them in high degree. could make the Spanish people all over
Castelar does not. look as if the world in a day by writing them a creed to live
wearied him. lie is still young and under. Castelar did good work during
active,and full of the Spanish politeness his brief tenure of executive power. He
and grace. He has a noble, animated did not hesitate to break away from the
face, tii in, and full of decision, and a project in favor of federalism when he
pair of well-made lips, shaded by a saw was doing the country harm. If
it
dense black mustache. The top of the the assembly had not been weak and
head is bald, — a tribute paid to hard vacillating he would not have been com-
study. He is quite unostentatious in pelled to resign, and the Spanish Repub-
dress and manner. In conversation he lic might have been in existence to-day.
expressed the liveliest sympathy and He drove the spectres of socialism and
admiration for the United States, and extreme federalism back to the darkness
especially for the talents of Mr. .lames out of which they had come. He insisted
Russell Lowell, who was so acceptable upon the necessity of education. When
a minister to Madrid. " 1 was," said he demanded the renewal of his powers
Castelar, " a firm friend to the >iorth by the Assembly, in January. 1874, he set
downasacardinal principle, that theeraof erates, Communists, Progressists, Mon-

popular uprising and pronunciamientos archical Democrats, and Republicans
must be closed forever. But Pavia with desirous of federal form, and after the
his troops came in, and, said Castelar, dazzling events from 1868 until the
it was too late. There was not a more " Restoration," he is justified in suppos-
deserted man in Spain
than himself. So Serrano
took up the burden of
power, and carried it
until the arrival of the
young Alfonso.
" Castelar," said a
Spanish nobleman to me,
• is the republican party
in Spain. Without him
it would fall into a hun-
dred fragments. He puts
the breath of life into
its nostrils. If he were
to withdraw his support
from it, it would expire
of inanition." Another
influential Spanish gen-
tleman said that Castelar
was impracticable and
unworldly to a certain
extent in many things,
but possessed the exact
knowledge of the con-
flicting elements of Span-
ish Republicanism neces-
sary to bring out of them
the little harmony possi-
ble. Castelar learned
Opportunism from Gam-
betta ; in fact, he would,
I think, lie willing to
admit this. If he is an
Opportunist to-day it is
because he has seen CA8TELAK AT HOME.

that little can be ac-
accomplished in a day or a month in re- iug that the country needs rest before
establishing liberty, but that the slow venturing upon a final effort for the re-
progress of years alone can give impor- establishment of her ancient liberties.
tant results. After the flight of Dona Castelar in the Legislative Assembly as
Isabel and the uprising of Carlists, Mod- an orator is a demigod. Gambetta at
;
limes was wonderful. Castelar is often control. One might almost fancy him
sublime. Gambetta had electric effects at these times a school-boy about to
of eloquence which appalled and some- speak his first piece ; but when once he
times annihilated his enemies. Castelar has begun, in sonorous voice, everything
seems to lift his hearers into the seventh like fear vanishes, and he pours forth a
heaven, and to move them with him flood of irresistible argument, clothed in
among the golden vapors of thedawn. exquisitely felicitous language. It is
Gambetta was crushing Castelar
: is odd that Castelar's voice, which iu ordi-
persuasive. Gambetta was vindictive nary conversation has a certain soft,

Castelar is of too large a mould to cou- feminine quality in it, is clear, robust,
descend to vengeance. Both orators will and harmonious in the tribune. When he'
be chronicled in history as having pos- is tremendously excited, as on the occa-

sessed unlimited command of metaphors sion of his great speech in favor of
and lovely imagery, never degenerating liberty of conscience and freedom of
into the commonplace. Castelar says public worship, made in April of 1869,
that he is nervous on days when he is the voice is inexpressibly grand. One
to speak in the Cortes. He wanders seems to hear the soul speaking without
about restlessly among his friends, ex- any hindrance whatever.
pressing doubts as to his power of self-
:
CHAPTER TEN.
The Bull-Fight Madrid before the King and Queen. — Eight Bulls Slaughtered. — A
in Strange Sport.
— Excitement of the Populace. — The Matador. — Duels between Men and Beasts.
AT one of the exhibitions of paint-

ings in the Paris Palace of Indus-
ties.
to
Had
there been any disposition
them there might have been
refuse
try a promising American artist showed something like a riot. Time has been
a picture combat between an As-
of a when the people in the immense plaza
syrian monarch and a lion in an have cried out, " Death to the Mayor " !
arena, where thousands of spectators because he would not allow them to wit-
were assembled to witness the daring of ness the killing of one or two more bulls
their king. As I sat in the Plaza de than were promised in the programme.
Toros of the Spanish capital ou the oc- "Bread and Shows" were the necessities
casion of the great bull-fight given in which not even tyrants dared deny the
celebration of thewedding festivities of ancient Romans. " Bread and Bulls,
King Alfonso and Queen Christina, Pa n y Toros" are the prime needs of
while watching the bull who had just the modern Spaniards. Not even the
bounded in from his cage and was stand- gentlest Spanish woman finds it extraor-
ing with his head proudly raised, eying dinary that her children should witness
the populace of Madrid and the gavly a bull-fight. In Madrid there are
uniformed butchers awaiting him, — this twenty-four exhibitions yearly on Mon-
:
picture came distinctly before my days, from April to October, or some-

eyes, and I was startled by the thought, times on Sundays, — for Sunday is in
that, in our modern day, more than nine- Spain, as in France, the people's favorite
teen centuries after the inauguration of holiday. All over Spain there are 'null-
an era supposed one of mercy,

to be rings which rival the colossal dimen-
forbearance, and peace, the world is as sions of the amphitheatres of the Romans.
brutal and unmerciful as everitwasin the Valencia possesses one, which, at a dis-
dim ages of barbarism. I cannot explain tance, looks as imposing as the Roman
the revolt which then took place in my Coliseum. " And what !
" say the Span-
spirit ; I might call it an insurrection iards " what
; ! shall we give up a game
of conscience, because I had allowed inaugurated by him of illustrious and
myself to have assisted at so murderous immortal memory, the Cid Campeador
and bloody a sport as a bull-tight. I he who, in the arena, with his own lance,
defy any one who has not been hardened slew wild bulls by the score?"
to this monstrous sight to feel otherwise The Arabs have the credit of introduc-
than criminal when he first gets an idea ing the cruel pastime into Spain ; but it
of the atrocious horror of it. But enough was the Cid who gave it its real impetus.
of preliminary moralizing. After he had set the example all the
When the royal wedding was an- youths of the nobility copied it, and at
nounced it was naturally decided that solemn festivals the corrida cle toros
bull-tights should be among the festivi- was one of the main features. The
honor of fighting the Imll on great clays (o accommodate sixteen thousand per-
was accorded only to the nobility. An sons, although there are seats for only a
ordinary mortal was not supposed to few more than twelve thousand. For
possess the requisite strength and sci- the two courses in honor of tin' royal
ence. Throughout the middle ayes luill- wedding festivities there were more
fighting was the favorite amusement of than fifty thousand applicants above the
warriors in these southern lands. When number which could be accommodated.
Isabel the Catholic tried to prohibit the Theoretically, no tickets wen' sold, ami
ghastly fun she found she did not pos- every one was invited; but I will not
enough to
sess influence do it. After her dwell on that point, as. through I he
time the sport became so popular that courtesy of Sefior Saturnino Esteban
Charles the Great did not disdain with Collantes.deputy in the Cortes, and a
his own hand to slay a hull upon the gentleman of distinction, I received in-
market-place of Valladolid. Pizarro, Hundreds

vitations for both occasions.
who conquered rem. was a brave bull- of people from Madrid, Vienna, and
fighter,and so was King Sebastian of London went away growling and disap-
Portugal. Philip III. adorned the hull- pointed, because they could not succeed
ring of Madrid with statues and banners ; ill gaining admission. The tickets of
Philip IV. fought therein; Charles II. invitation were conceived as follows: —
loved the game; Philip V. issued an
official order thai bull-rings should he
constructed throughout the kingdom. Plaza de Toros.
All these days no man of the people

was allowed to enter the arena, ami it
was not until the middle of the eigh-
teenth century that peasants and com-
mon folk in general were permitted to
become professional toreros. Francisco
Romero de Rondfi introduced the usage
of fighting the bull <>n foot, sword in
hand ; and from his time date the lixed

rules of this difficult art, which in our
davs have had such illustrious professors
as Lagartijo, and Alonzo.

Frascuelo,
Queen was an enthusiastic patron
Isabel
of the spoil. Amadeo. of Italy, pre-
tended to like it. while he was King of
Spain but it is to be presumed that his
;
delicate ami refined nature suffered tor-

tures at tin' sight. How can the present
king refuse to attend upon and support
with all his influence an institution as
truly national in Spain as the Sabbath-
school in the United Stales?
The Plaza de Toros of Madrid is
supposed by dint of much crowding
EUROPE n\r STORM AND CALM. 103
breaking forth into the most extravagant in their appointed places, as if fearful
expressions of delight and affection lest they might lose a single detail of the
when an espada did his work well. performance.
The bull-ring, to call it by the prosaic The ring is solidly built, and the gates
English term, which best translates the through which the animals are admitted
high-sounding Plaza de Toros, is about are of immense thickness. Huge corri-
a mile and a half from the centre of the dors run round it, between the seats and
city,on the outskirts of the barren plains the outer wall, and doors open upon
which environ Madrid. It is reached by stairways which lead to the various gal-
passing a superb archway, erected by leries. The politeness of Sefior Collantes
Charles III., on the hill overlooking the had placed me in the front rank in the
Prado and the surrounding country, and lower gallery, in what we should call an
thence- by a long avenue, bordered on orchestra stall in a theatre, and at a
either hand by elegant mansions, superb point from whence I could well observe
villas, and finally by manufactories, the king and queen and their suite.
slaughter-houses, forges, and all the Once or twice during the afternoon it
unsavory and unsightly appendage-; of a seemed to me that my seat was decidedly
great city. On the day of this bull-fight too near the ring, and I should have been
the crowd, the invited and the uninvited, gla,d to move.
allwent in a long procession down the I had not been long seated before I
broad and handsome Calle de Alcala, discovered that the audience, or collec-
past the Prado, and through the gardens tion of on-lookers, was intensely excited.
and avenues, in delighted haste, anxious Shouts arose answering shouts. The
to note ever}' detail of the festival. vast arena seemed to tremble under the
Hundreds of omnibuses, filled with holi- concussion of sound. The arrival of any
day-makers, pushed madly towards the well-known person was the signal for a
centre of attraction. I will spare the roar, which must have made the bulls
reader any account of the epithets which quake in their prison. Officials ran to
the drivers of these vehicles applied to and fro, settling disputes between new-
their horses, as few of the words are comers water-carriers and cigar-sellers
;
suited Saxon ears polite.

to Men, screamed out the virtues of their wares,
women, and children, dressed with ex- and from the upper galleries came clam-
cellent taste, hurried to the plaza with ors for the appearance of the popular
anticipations of joy written on their favorites. The balconies were sumptu-
features. The beggars forgot to beg ously decorated with orange and yellow,
as the}' watched the lords and ladies. and with red velvet and crowns and ;
Brown Andalusians, in tattered cloaks, coats-of-arms in different places indicated

once magnificent, gazed sharply, as if the presence of nobility. High up above
picking out the person whom they had all was the royal
the galleries save one
been told to assassinate. Muleteers and loge ; and, hearing the baud playing the
merchants, foreigners and natives, beau- march which announced the arrival of
ties and hags, old and young, poured the King, I turned to see him.
along the roadways, babbling open-lipped Alfonso XII. arrived briskly, dressed
and merrily and when they reached the
; in a captain-general's uniform, with a
yawning gate of the ring they ran tumult- cap entirely covered with gold lace. He
uously through the lines of gendarmes had much improved in appearance since
104 EUROPE IN STORM ANT) CALM.
and Vienna. Side-

his residence in Paris mounted on starved-looking horses, came
whiskers and mustache gave a manly the picadors, wicked fellows, clad in
look to his fare, and his manners were braided jackets, buckskin hose, gar-
simple and unaffected. The voting nished within with stiff iron supports,
Queen wore a white mantilla upon her so that when their horses fell upon them
glossy braids. She sat down beside the they might not have their legs broken.
King on the front rank, and there soon These picadors were armed with euoi-
appeared behind the youthful pair the nious lances, pointed with sharp blades.
benevolent faees of numerous venerable Next in order was a small army of
Spanish and Austrian generals. Next servants, dressed in scarlet jackets
came Dona Isabel and her pretty daugh- (forsooth, in a bull-ring!), and the rear
ters, and then an enormous following of was brought up with teams of mules,
ladies and gentlemen of the Court, who harnessed three abreast, and driven by
took possession of either side of the bal- picturesque brigands, whose duty was to
cony. A large delegation of Austrian be the clearing of the ring of the dead
officers, their breasts glittering with horses and bulls encumbering it. The
dozens of decorations, sat on the side procession wheeled round in front of the
next the Queen. Alfonso XII. took up royal loge, and every person in it made
his opera-glass, and surveyed the audi- low bows, to which the King responded
ence. When royal march was fin-
the by a stiff military salute. The trum-
ished he raised his handkerchief, and pets sounded loudly, and the procession
made a signal. A chorus of bugles went its ways, breaking up into fragments
sounded from a balcony opposite the in various places in the ring. In front
King and Queen. Gates were thrown of the series of galleries which led to the
open just beneath this balcony, and royal box, and directly in the ring, stood
there entered — a large corps of halberdiers, without any
No, — not a hull, but a long and stately protection. The mishaps of these gen-
procession, which transported us back to tlemen at arms at frequent intervals
the days of chivalry. First came the during the performance were sources of
masters of ceremonies, dressed in Court immense and long-continued merriment
suits of black velvet, and mounted on to the crowd.
prancing steeds. Next followed a And now the picadors, on their horses,
drummer on horseback, a. huge drum held their lances at rest ; the marshals
suspended on cither side of his horse's retired to a corner, looking somewhat
saddle. Then came four heralds, sound- uneasy ; the corps of capeadors, matadors,
ing bugles; alguazils; a provincial dele- and espadas approached the barrier of
gation ; then, in state carriages, the the ring, behind which ran a corridor
protectors of the toreadors of the occa- separating us. the spectators, by a short
sion. These protectors are gentlemenof distance from the arena. This corridor
rank, who deign to confer the shadow was patrolled by gendarmes, court offi-
of their dignity on the popular favorites. cials in black, and by the friends of the
Reside these coaches, glittering in satin performers in the ring. There were a
costumes in which all the colors of few moments of silence then a deep ;
the rainbow were inextricably mingled, " Ah " burst from the assemblage, and,
!
walked the men who were to fight the looking over across the ring, I saw a
bulls on foot while behind; them, magnificent bull standing in front of the
EUROPE IN STAR. If AXD CALM. 105
gates, which were closing behind him. into the air, and the next moment to
The Queen had given the signal with her witness the agonies of the disembowelled
handkerchief. I looked up at her, and horse. The picador was lying beneath
she had half risen from her seat, as his beast. Was he dead? No. He was
though she were anxious to go away. helped up, looking black and ugly, and
But an instant after she sat down again, he took off his hat to the King. What
and was apparently calm. had he done? There was a, gaping
The hull took a careful look at every- wound in the bull's shoulders, and the
body. He seemed g 1-natured, and I bullhad withdrawn a few paces, and was
thought that if I had been near him I thinking what to do next. Around him
should have liked to pull his tail. Hut once more were fluttering the agile
what was my surprise' when he advanced capeadors; capes and cloaks were danc-
with a long " lope," which quickly ing before the bull's vision. He rushed
changed into a wild run ; and before hither and yon, aiming at. death and de-
any one could divert his attention he struction. What was my horror to see
had plunged his horns into the flanks of the horse which had just been gored
the horse of one of the masters, of cere- once more in the fray, his merciless rider
monies. The poor beast darted forward, charging him down upon the bull, while
the blood gushing from his wounds, and the dragged on the ground.
entrails
the spectators began to yell to their Some Spaniards laughed others, more ;
favorites — the men and rainbow

in satin merciful, shouted, "Fuera!" (Out with
colors —
to begin the combat. At once the horse). But no; the bull had him
an agile fellow sprang directly in front once more on his horns, and tore and
of the bull, holding a bright red cloak rent him, while the picador, lying coolly
before the infuriated animal's eves. behind the dying creature, lacerated the
Master bull made a lunge at it. The flank of his antagonist.It was horrible.
nimble cape-bearer stepped aside, and I looked up young Queen. She

at the
another fluttered an orange-colored cloak had turned her eyes away, but a moment
at the bull's nose. Then half-a-dozen later, at the intimation of the King, she
others appeared. The bull did not know made a signal.
which way to turn, lie pawed the earth ; Trumpets sounded, and the picador
he snorted. Suddenly, selecting one was extricated from his perilous position,
who was most daring, he went after him while the men with the capes occupied
with such vindictive force thai the man the bull's attention. This was the signal
paled, ran, and lightly as a feather to retire the horses, and to let the bande-
leaped the barrier unhurt. The bull rilleros begin their work. The bande-
turned to another. Up and away went rille.ro comes on at the second stage of a
the a'wy fellow, almost between the bull's bull-light. I felt glad to see the horses
horns; yet safe, and grinning with the retire, and 1 noticed that I no longer felt
excitement. sorry for the bull, since had seen how

I
The bull was now terrible in his wrath ; devilish he was in his work. 1 was glad
and at this moment he noted a picador, to know that was to be put out of the
it
sitting motionless on his horse, with his way. Probably I was becoming brutal-
lance' ready. I arose in my seal, and, if ized.
I could, I should have fled, for it iced The bull was enraged because the
my blood to see both rider and horse go horses were withdrawn, but thus far he
!
felt that he had had the best of it. iu the bull was aroused his motions ;
Still he looked his antagonists over in were twice as rapid as before. Thou-
his steady, resolved way, and seemed sands of voices were screaming advice
saying to them, " What will yon have from the benches : Rafael, mind your
next?" steps! Well, well ! Muy Men! Lagar-
He was not long without an answer. tijo! demonio! Anda! Anda! Now,
A daring fellow, in green tights, white run for it Hombre ! What an ass
!
silk stockings,and a jacket blazing with burro I burritol Go home and bury
gold and jewels, ran up in front of him, yourself. Fnera .' Cara mba ! There he
holding in each hand a flexible dart, eu- had it ! O my angel ! O Alonzo
THE BULL HAS THE BERT OF IT.
celoped in straw at one end. Quick as Bravo! Here he comes! Es un lorn!

lightning the bull sprang at him, but the Idiot! Can't you throw? Look out —
man went to one side, and the two darts look out — look out ! Is he dead ? No,
were sticking in the animal's neck. It was not even scratched, but rather pale. Ah!
as swift as thought. The banderillos made the bull's tongue is out. No no I Si si!
the bull crazy with rage. He shook him- X,, hombre! Si Caballero! Oh! oh!
self, but they entered more deeply into oh! Dion! Enough, enough of bande-
the skin he foamed at the mouth
; he ; rillos! La Espada! The matador, —
was terrible. He ran at a knot of his where is the killer, the brave, the beautiful
enemies, and frightened them so that matador? Ah! there he is See! lie !
they fled in confusion, leaping the barrier. is coming How beautiful his costume
! !
But others came new banderillos were

;
Tis satin. Ho! ho! ho! La Espada!
stuck in the poor brute's hide. They Hist! There he is, kneeling before the
whizzed through the air, some of them king Now he takes off his hat and
!
bearing little banners. Now all the devil raises his arm. Now he makes his
speech, and thrusts his cap away with a applauded with his white-gloved hands.
great sweeping gesture. It is as if he And the spectators ! It was Bedlam.
threw away his same time.
life at the The bull struggled, but the dreadful
Si, Hombn ! Bravo Torn' Bravo el sword sapped his life. He rushed and
matador! Hoi It"! ho! ho! ho-o-o-o-o! ran, frothing,upon the agile cloak-bear-
Caramba ! " ers. They decamped, but returned as
Then a greal silence fell. they saw the poor animal walk away a
The matador took a red cloak in his short distance and lie down, with his
hand, holding concealed beneath it a tongue out. They flew to him, and be-
sword, short and stout of blade. He gan to tempt him to a renewal of the
stepped gracefully and briskly to the contest. This was most piteous of all.
bull, and held the red cloak directly He looked up at them with glazing eyes,
before his eves. Bull flew at it. The out of which all brutish malice had de-
uiiitii'lor made a false step, saved himself, parted, as the great mystery of death
and looked up. pale and quivering, to overtook him, and he seemed struggling to
hear a tempest of maledictions. The bull say, " Come, caballeros, this is not fair.
was after him again, and followed him. Iam hurt and down, and there are too
Lightly as thistledown flew to the rescue many of you I did not intend
! to carry
a dozen capeadors, who fluttered their it so far." In short, the bull seemed
cloaks in the bull's vision until he was humanized, and the men brutalized, at
diverted from his victim. Then they this moment. I forgot about the gored
gradually brought him to a stand-still, horse. One of the executioners took a

and the matador came before him anew. short dagger, drove it into the spinal
Now began a horrible duel between marrow of the animal, and the trumpets
man and beast. The cloth was within sounded. The lirst tight was over. The
the bull's reach. lie plunged at. it, and bull fell on his side, and the gayly capar-
seemed to annihilate the matador. But isoned mules came in and dragged him
no; the man was always out of reach, ignominiously away.
and his gleaming blade was playing in Then the matador came forward to
the air. The bull was at hand. The receive the compliments of the spectators
cloak was before him. Ssst ! Down for his final adroit sword-thrust. His
came the sword between the animal's name was rapturously shouted ten thou-
fore-shoulders. But the bull, with a noble sand times. Hats rained upon him, and
and impetuous motion, threw it out of the he tossedthem back to their owners
wound, from which the blood poured in until his arms ached. Young swells
large streams. The matador drew an- threw their cloaks down to him that he
other sword, and the duel began again. might walk upon them. Cigars, fruit,
Each time that he stabbed the beast but ami money were cast at him. lie re-
slightly the crowd cursed him. Then tired proud and contented. Had he
he redoubled his energy, and seemed to been unsuccessful he would have re-
lose his prudence. By and by he made ceived sticks and stones upon his humil-
a flying leap. Every one stood up, think- iated head.
ing to sec him cured to death. But no; We had short respite. The trumpets
he stood some yards away, pointing to the sounded the picadors reappeared, and
;
bull, whose shoulders a sword was

in a new bull burst into the arena. This
planted to the hilt. The King languidly animal wasted no time. He drove all
;
the cape-flutterers out of the ring, killed picador, who was too much for him, and
a horse in less than two minutes, sent even kept him from goring his horse.
a picador off on a stretcher, and took a This bull in his turn submitted to the
tremendous dive at the halberdiers, who agony of the banderiUos and the duel
received him with lowered spears, but with the matador, who prolonged the
with blanching faces. He broke one or animal's life so that the crowd execrated
two of their spear-blades, kicked at him because he had done much harm,
them contemptuously, gored a second and then sold his life dearly.
horse but here his star began to pale,
; And so, one after another, during al-
for he received a terrific lance wound. most four hours, we saw eight bulls
This sobered him, and seemed to exhaust slaughtered. The only animals which
his energies. The capes could no lon- were really terrifying were the third and
ger excite him. A spry and deft man the eighth. One of them was so in-
pulled his tail, and stole the rosette from dignant at a cape-bearer, who shook a
his back. He was no giant with a lance red cloak in his face, that he followed
wound. The only thing which he did him right over the barrier, causing an
was mercifully to finish the second immense burst of laughter. In truth
horse, which was in convulsions of the sight was irresistibly comical. I
agony. Then the banderiUos were planted thought of the Yankee phrase about the
in his neck, and a new matador finally man who was " hurried over " the fence
despatched him. The crowd grew im- by the bull. This same animal charged
patient, and were glad when he was the halberdiers twice ; but they filled
dead. He had promised well, but fin- his skin full of holes and put out one of
ished badly. His debut as an artist was his eyes. There were one or two fright-
meteoric his career tame.
; Thus often ful half-hours in this strange afternoon :
in human life ; but no matter about the half-hours, when a bull, dying, gored
moral. the horse which he had already slain
Once more the trumpets, and another when the odor of death arose from the
bull. It took him some time to realize ring ; when the smell of blood seemed
the situation, but when he did realize it lie to put savagery into all our souls ; when
proceeded to business with an energy far we felt a grim joy in each new wound
superior to that of his immediate prede- inflicted on the bull, and when the flit-
cessor. He did not like the ring, and he ting corps of executioners seemed en-
leaped out of it. It seemed impossible dowed with supernatural skill. The
for him to do it; but he did it, knockftg last bull, which had not promised well
down half-a-dozen people in the corridor at turned out to be a master
first,
before mentioned. was horrified to I fighter,and the principal matador had

see him, as the door was opened to let to use all his skill to bring him to his
him in again, tossing a gendarme on his knees. The manner in which the bull
horns. The unhappy man turned over looked at the matador had something
and over. His sword fell from its awful in it, something so inexpressible
sheath, and he was carried out, when the that I will not try to define it.
bull's attention had been diverted from The King and Queen tried to retire
him, covered with blood and wounds. when the seventh bull had been de-
The bull ran up and down once or twice, spatched but the people would not hear
;
engaged in a tremendous duel with a of it. They cried, "Otro toro ! Otro
toro!" (another hull), in thunderous horses which had been their victims
unison, and the King must
yielded. It were lying in a row. The amphitheatre,
have been a severe trial for the Queen ; with its stone scats and blood-stained
hut she sat through it all the while, and sands, seemed Roman rather than Span-
I observed that towards the last she ish ; but Spanish it emphatically was.
looked on all the time. One speedily The bulls slain at this royal festival
becomes accustomed to the spectacle, were furnished from the estates of dif-
horrid as it is. So soon as the last hull ferent gentlemen, who take great pride
was despatched, the thousands of per- in raising them. The local journals
sons dispersed peaceably, and so dense publish the names of these gentry as
was the throng that carriages and well as the pedigrees of the bulls. On
pedestrians alike could only move at a the day following the first great corrida
snail's pace. The arena was wet with there was a second bull-tight, at which
lil 1. In a recess of one of the outer eight bulls were to lie slain. But I did
corridors the eight bulls and the seven not go ; I had seen enough.
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. Ill
CHAPTER ELEVEN.
The Famous Museum in Madrid. — The Palace of the Cortes. Noted — Tapestries. — A Visit to —
Toledo.
The Spanish Cloak and its Characters. A Fonda. Befârs. — — — The Grotto of Hercules. — The
Alcazar. — In the Ancient Church.
THE great
Madrid is
museum
one of the
of painting
finest in the
in meanness.
halls are badly lighted,
Many of the corridors
and insufficiently
and
world ; and, for the lover of art, a fitted for the display of the splendid
ramble through its galleries is a rich canvases which adorn them. The works
compensation for the troubles and of the masters are huddled together
trialswhich he has had in his journey without any particular attempt at ar-
across the Pyrenees and down through rangement, and even the most adroit
the strange wastes, alternated with rich student of art comes away from the
fields and fertile valleys, of northern Prado with a bad headache and a confused
Spain. The Spanish masses, although vision of Titian, Tintoretto, Michael
so rudely ignorant, have a general respect Angelo, Correggio, Guido, Mantegna,
for art, and 1 was struck with the fact, Andrea del Sarto, Paul Veronese, Velas-
during the Revolution of 1869, that no- quez, Goya, Murillo, and Ribera, float-
where in the peninsula were the rich ing before his eyes. The Flemish school
treasures of art in any way disturbed is naturally well represented, for the
or injured. Even in the monasteries, Spaniard has had ample opportunity to
through which the vindictive crowds of make rich collections in the northern
Valencian peasantry poured in 1868 and lands ; and the Rubens gallery is remark-
1869, the paintings were not touched. able both for the splendor of the canvases
There was none of the iconoclastic bru- and for the great number of them. The
tality of the Belgian mobs in the days citizens of Madrid are especially proud
when the Spaniard carried persecution of the specimens of the Spanish school
into the north. The museum of tin 1
of painting, particularly of those of
Prado, as it is generally called, was Velasquez, who was a great favorite of
founded in 17.'!."), under the reign of King Philip IV., and who died in Madrid
Charles III., and according to the plans in 1CG0. There arc threescore paintings
of a famous architect named Villa Nueva. from the hand of this noble artist in the
It was originally designed to receive col- Madrid Museum, and among the most
lections illustrating natural history ; but celebrated of them are the famous
King Ferdinand VII. brought together ''Christ on the Cross," — an admirable
there the great numbers of paintings study of the nude of most elevated aud
which had been scattered through the startling realism ; the noted " Bor-
different royal palaces; and in 181'.), rachos," "Vulcan's Forge;" the
the
alter immense sums had been expended, "Surrender of Breda;" and the won-
the museum was opened to the public. derful " Menines." This celebrated pict-
It offers, like so many things in Spain, a ure, which Luca Giardano called the
curious contrast of magniliceuee aud " theology of painting," represents Velas-
112 FJ-ROVE IN STORM AND CALM.
quez engaged upon the portraits of a fine painting. In gems and jewels
Philip IV. and others of the royal family, the Prado Museum is very rich, perhaps
who are surrounded by their ladies of richer than any of the great museums
honor, the officers of the palace and their in l'aris and London.
dwarfs. This dazzling page of color, lint in public buildings Madrid is

and the other equally remarkable picture, almost as poor as American cities which
known to art lovers as the " Fileuses," only date from the beginning of this
appear to justify the extravagant note century. The Royal Palace is medi-
of praise sounded by a French critic, who ocre in appearance. The Opera-house
said that it seemed as if the hand (if is plain and uuimposing. The Palace of
Velasquez had taken no part in the the Cortes, where the legislative bodies
execution of his works, but that all of assemble ; the Archaeological Museum,
them had been created by a pure act of and the Palace of St. Ferdinand, are not
volition on his part. In the Prado especially striking, although the facade
there are also forty-six pictures from the of the Palace of the Cortes is decorated
hand of Murillo ; and Ribera, the great with two noble lions in bronze, the work
naturalist, is represented by fifty-eight of the sculptor Ponzano, and moulded
pictures, almost .Shakespearian in their out of the bronze camions taken iu the
variety of manner, composition, and old campaign iu Morocco. In the
style. Of Morales, of the amusing, Royal Palace one of the most ample
is
t< and sometimes terrible, pictures

niching, collections of tapestries in the world, and
of Goya, there is little room to speak here. this is reckoned among oue of the chief
One is led to inquire how it is that riches of the domain of the Spanish
foreign schools of art are so much better down. It is said that there are more
represented in this vast and splendid than eight hundred of these tapestries,
museum than the Spanish school; and most of them extremely interesting from
one soon learns that the accumulation of an historical as well as an artistic point
these treasures of the Italian and the of view. Among the most noted of the
Flemish school was made during the cen- compositions is the Conquest of Tunis,
tury and a half when Spain was mistress of by Charles V. This merits a few words
Italy and Flanders; when she had the of description. The original designs
treasures from the two Americas floating were the work of Jehan Cornelius Ver-
in steady streams into her coffers, and may, known in Flanders under the name
when the kings of Spain were the best of Jan Met de Baar in Spain he was ;
patrons of men like Titian and Rubens. sometimes called Barba Longa, the ori-
Velasquez was twice sent into Italy \>y gin of which name is easily traced. He
Philip IV., with orders to buy the best came into Spain from Flanders in 1534,
pictures he could find without any refer- called thither by Charles V., who took
ence to economy in price. The Spanish him along to Tunis, that he might per-
royalty, too, took advantage of the petuate, in tapestry, the presumable
auction sah> of the gallery of King glories of the expedition. Charles came
Charles I., of England, in 1648; and. home successful from his campaign; and
furthermore, it was the fashion for all in 1546 Vermay had finished his compo-
the Spanish grandees, at least once sitions illustrative of the different battles
during the reign of a sovereign, to and victories. Yet it was not until 1554
present to him some artistic gift, usually that the desigus had been reproduced in
EUROPE IN STOini AND CALM. 113
tapestry. Six years and a half the webs mysterious person, entirely enveloped in
were on the looms. The artist, it is his cloak, so that had I made the most
furious t<> note, who made the designs, persistent effort to see his face I could
was paid but 1,800 florins, while the not have done so. The Spanish cloak has
master-worker in tapestry received a vast amount of character in it. When
14.."i7(i florins, besides which he was hanging loosely from the shoulders it
paid 8,500 florins for gold thread, 6,600 conveys the impression that its owner is
livres for silks, which had been dyed in free from guile ; but when wound about
Granada in sixty different dyes. Another him, and half concealing his face, it im-
tapestry illustrates the Acts of the parts to the most innocent the air of an
Apostles. It is not only in the royal assassin, or, at least, a fugitive from
palaces that tapestries of value are to be justice. When
it quite swallows up the
found. Hundreds of impoverished Span- man in voluminous folds it has

its
ish families still possess, stowed away in something ghostly and enchante about 1
garrets, or hung, floating in some windy it, which quite controls the attention. I
corridor of their decaying mansions, could not refrain from looking again and
tapestries, which, if their pride would again at my mysterious fellow-passenger
allow them to sell them, would keep them in the comer. Iexpected to see a noble
comfortably money for
provided with cavalier, with a tremendous frown, come
many a year. A rich amateur, American forth; but at the end of the journey,
or English, occasionally makes an ex- when the man condescended to uncloak,
cursion into the peninsula, and ransacks lie turned out to lie nothing but a rather
these Madrid garrets, generally with ordinary commercial traveller in a shabby
marked profit and success. tweed suit.
On my first visit to Spain I did not Judging by the lights gleaming on an

see ancient and romantic Toledo, a acclivity beyond the plain that we were
strange, quaint city, which lingers like near the end of our railway ride, I rescued
a protest against the present, on its my fellow-passenger from the mass of
foaming Tagus. But I
bluffs beside the rugs, blankets, and
overcoats, valises,
hastened to repair my error on the oc- guide-l which he had fallen in
ks, into
casion of my second visit, and accord- the unconsciousness of sleep, and we set
ingly set forth in the evening train on our gaze forward, as many a traveller did
the two hours' journey between Madrid when exploring his way across those
and the old fortress town. Spanish dreary plains at nightfall centuries ago.
suburban railways are as capriciously when roads were unsafe, and when men-
managed as are the main lines. One is at-arms went in twos and threes for
never certain that he will arrive at his mutual aid and protection. The superb
destination at the hour indicated by tin 1
moonlight lent a poetical glamor to the
time-tables ; in fact, he is never sure most common and vulgar objects on this
that lie will arrive at all. I fell asleep December evening in the south. The
on the way to Toledo, and. suddenly pools in some of the marshes which we
being awakened by a cold wind striking passed were like flakes of molten silver.
on my face, found that we had come to Shadows in the long grass rose up and
a dead halt in a melancholy plain, and disappeared with strange rapidity. A
that one of the doors of the carriage cottage or a hovel, with a well-sweep be-
was open. In a corner near me sat a fore it. a fortified grange, or a grove be-
;
side a rippling stream, looked eminently we had dreamed of fascinating as be-

picturesque. In one place we caught a longing to the approaches to Toledo
glimpse of a belated shepherd, hurrying was more than
here fulfilled. Far
his bleating flock to shelter; in another below on the uneven plain, a few
us,
we saw a tew rude men seated on the lights danced and flickered like will-of-
ground around a blazing lire. Few the-wisps, as perhaps they were. Not
houses which we passed had any lights a sound came from the city; I could
at the windows; indeed, many of them have fancied it spellbound by a magi-
had no windows worthy of the name. cian.
The interior of a Spanish dwelling of the Now we crossed a tiny square, sur-
ordinary class has made small progress rounded by tall, narrow, many-balconied
in embellishment and comfort since the buildings; and now our omnibus clat-
lime when Cervantes wrote. We felt that tered streets so narrow that
through
we should have preferred to arrive in a the sleek sides of the mules seemed to
diligence, or on horseback, rather than in graze the sides of the houses on either
the extremely prosaic railway-car. Pres- hand. But the Spanish Jehu landed us
ently wo rolled into a small station, and safely at last in front of a hostelry,
there was a cry of ' L
Toledo." Then which, humble enough of exterior, proved
every one made a simultaneous rush for capacious and comfortable within. It
the. omnibus. was a veritable fonda with huge wooden
:
In this gloomy, although roomy, convey- shutters to the windows, and with bra-
ance we obtained some ideas as to the zeros to warm Hie apartments; with a
dis comforts which weshouldhave suite red profusion of dark passages and mys-
in a diligence, and repented of our late terious retreats, and sunny house-tops,
desire for it. We were packed in as where the guests made their rendezvous
tightly as nails in a board, and while we in themorning; ami with a dining-room,
were suffocating, fat Spaniards dropped the walls of which were lined with pict-
their valises upon our toes, and heaped ures illustrative of the chivalrous career
their parcels upon our laps, while they of the Knight of La Manclia, as well as
proceeded with great gravity to light with daggers and Toledo blades innu-
their cigarettes. The roof of the crazy merable.
conveyance was heaped with luggage ; It was in this chamber, suggestive of
we could hear the driver indulge in a duels and sudden deaths, and with ra-
hundred untranslatable imprecations piers hanging almost literally over our
lien Hi' mules jumped, and away we heads, that we tool; our frugal midnight
went into the seemingly open country. supper and while we ate fresh eggs and
;
We crossed an ancient bridge, beneath lean fried in oil, and drank

cutlets,
which was roaring.
a river thimblcfuls of musty wine, we heard
we began to climb a hill,
Presently the voice of the sereno, not unmusically
and then the brilliant moonlight showed proclaiming the fact that it was twelve
us an antique parapet guarding the o'clock and serene. Toledo seemed

brinks of precipitous cliffs, around more than serene. It seemed more and
which we wound our upward way, the more to us as if the old town were in
tower surrounded with wall; far above an enchanted sleep.

us, and gat'':; proudly uplifting their We dressed next morning, uhivcring
venerable hcado against time. All that in the cool air ; for it was December,
and December has its asperities in by Tubal, and restored and enlarged by
Spain as well more northward
as in Hercules, who was a magician before the
climates. We opened the windows, Greeks made a god of him, and who here
hoping to get warm. This sounds odd, built the enchanted tower containing
but it is the literal truth go out of the : many and menacing in6crip-
talismans
house into the open air if you wish to t his.
\i Among these latter was one which
be warm in Spain. The sun is the life, read ''A ferocious and barbaric nation
:
the heat, the universal rejoicer. When will invade Spain whenever any one shall
he goes dowu to rest at night every- enter into this magic circle." Every
thing seems to take on a sinister and Gothic king, trembling with fear lest this
melancholy aspect for an hour or two terrible and mysterious prophecy might
as if in sullen dejection because of the be realized, felt it his dutytoaddnew bolts
departure of the monarch of day. and locks to the mysterious door- way lead-
When a Spaniard passes from the shade ing into the grotto. But Rodriguez, not
to the sunlight his face brightens in- having the fear of magic before his eyes,
voluntarily, even though he may have and hopingto find important treasure con-
gloomy cloak.
his nose enveloped in his cealed in the labyrinth, one day banished
So we opened the windows, and looked his courtiers aud his guard, and went
out over the plain which Toledo so along to the old iron door, on which for
proudly dominates and here, before; centuries had stood respected the inscrip-
we went down to visit the town, we tion in Greek letters: "The king who
read the pretty legend about the origin shall open this door and discover the mar-
of the Moorish victories over the Goths. vels beyond it will see much good and evil."
Toledo, as all the world knows, passed Rodriguez, with sudden resolution, or-
with the rest of Spain in the fifth century dered the bolts to be torn away, and went
from the hands of the Romans into into the grotto. He soon arrived in a
those of the Goths and in Toledo the
; vast chamber, with walls of hewn stone,
Gothic kings held their Court in the in the middle of which stood a bronze
sixth century. Two hundred years statue of terrible aspect. It held in its
after that, Rodriguez, the last of the hand weapons with which it struck upon
Gothic kings, was conquered on the the floor. But Bodriguez went straight
banks of the Guadalete by the Moors, up to the statue and asked permission to
swarming in from Africa. go farther on. The bronze warrior then
The legend tells of the mysterious ceased to strike upon the floor, and Bod-
grotto of Hercules, a subterranean laby- riguez, pushiug on, soon found a coffer,
rinth, which is said to extend for more on the cover of which was written " He :
than three leagues outside the walls of who opens me will sec marvels." It was
Toledo. The entrance to this labyrinth, too late to hesitate now, so he opened
says the story, was closed by an iron the box, but was annoyed to find in it
gate, studded with massive bolts and nothing except a canvas which lie un-
nails, and was on the highest site in the rolled. Upon it were figured troops of
town, at the place now occupied by a strange men, their heads girt with tur-
shabby Catholic church. The entrance, 1 and with lances and bucklers in their
mils,
it ia was walled up, by order of
said, hands and underneath them ran the
;
Cardinal Silicco, in 154G. Here stood, inscription " He who shall have opened
:
in the ancient days, the palace founded this box will have ruined Spain, and will
"
116 EUROPE IN STORM AXf> CALM.
be conquered by a nation like those Toledo;" and I warrant you that each
painted on this canvas." one is registered in some huge black
King Rodriguez wentout of the grotto book, anil has to give some small per-
filledwith sadness and presentiment of centage of his receipts to a grasping
trouble. That night a terrible tempest official. Men or women must be of very
broke over Toledo, and the Tower of little account in Spain to escape govern-
Hercules was destroyed. It was not mental cupidity. good part of theA
long after these events that the Arabs frightful hubbub which we now heard
began to pour into Spain, where they were was due to the fancy of some other trav-
destined to remain tor many centuries. ellers,who from the balcony next ours
Toledo was at fust governed in the name were tossing coppers to the beggars, and
of the Caliphs of tile Orient by chiefs or watching the struggles of tin wretches to 1
by officers, who soon, however, declared get them from each other. An evil-eyed
their independence. The Moorish kin^s old man. in a soiled hat, a tattered
of Toledo kept their sovereignty there blanket, a patriarchal beard, and a pair
until 1085, when Alfonso VI., King of of red soldier trousers, had incurred the
Castile, drove them out, after a siege animosity of all the other beggars by his
which had lasted many years. Then agility ; and the travellers were now a trifle
Toledo became the capital of the kings appalled to see that their generosity
of Castile, and remained so until the might possibly be the cause of a fray.
middle of the sixteenth century, when In fact, a woman and two overgrown
Philip II. took the Court to Madrid. boys, who had succeeded in picking up
We were so engrossed in our books none of the pence, were threatening the
some time we did not notice the
that for old man with instant dissolution unless
hubbub in the street below but presently ; he agreed t<> divide. He defended his
we looked down, where two or three booty as he could, and already windows
straggling rays of sunshine had found were opened on the other side of the
their way to the very flag-stones, ami street, and ladies appeared, making ap-
lighted group of
up as picturesque a pealing gestures to the travellers not to
vagabonds as ever sprouted on tin- soil encourage this cupidity any farther.
of Spain. " Are all the beggars in the Oaths, entreaties, words neither fit for
province aware of our arrival?" said my ears polite norimpolite, flewfrom beggar
companion. It. really seemed as it they to beggar,with great rapidity, and aston-
were, and were overjoyed to see us. for ished us. The red-legged sinner, disdain-
they set up a yell of delightwhen our ing the danger in which he stood, took
attention rested upon them, and all, ex- off his hat, and solicited or begged our
cept one or two lame ones, began dancing patronage anew, with a whining " Par
about, as if possessed with the devil. Dios, Senores!
Poor souls ! they were certainly possessed Whetheror not it would have ended
of little else, for there were scarcely in blood do not know, for it was luckily
I
rags among the lot decently to cover the interrupted by the music of a fine mili-
nakedness of one-half their number; and taryband and by sharp words of com-
yet these rascals were all licensed to bee;. mand from officers. Before the beggars
Each one wore round his or her neck had had time to get well ranged on the
a string, from which depended a brass sunshiny side of the street, with their
badge, bearing the words, " Pobri <U backs against the walls, one of the fin-
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM 117
est-looking regiments I had ever seen Toledo we found two or three of these
marched past. I doubt if any country cadets, promenading or standing beneath
could have produced a finer collection of balconies, conversing with ladies who
shapely and intelligent young men than were as invisible to them as to us.
that embodied in this regiment. There After seeing few interviews of this
a
were traces of refinement and culture in fashion one can understand the strange
every face, and we could not help think- surprises of which old Spanish comedies
ing that it was a sad waste to concentrate are full. One needs to he extremely
all this young talent upon such a branch careful when doing his Sunday courting,
to make sure that

it is and not her
his love,
mother, or her maiden

aunt, whom he is talking
up to.
When the regiment

had passed we closed our windows
to discourage the beggars, and pres-
ently sallied forth to view the town,
ALCAZAR AND WALLS OF TOLEDO. beginning, as wise travellers always
do, with a purposeless stroll hither
of the public service as the army, when and yon. In the course of this per-
good men arc needed in so many other ambulation we discovered that Toledo
professions in Spain. These youths is wonderfully clean for a Spanish town ;
were the pupils of the great military that order and decency seem every-
school of Toledo, whence six hundred where to prevail, and that one might
cadets are sent forth at frequent periods. pass a comfortable existence there if he
Their college was formerly the Hospital were a good son of the Church, and
of the Holy Cross, and is one of the passionately devoted to its history, an-
most interesting monuments of the town. tiquities, observances, and splendors;
Wherever we went during our stay in for Toledo is nought but an ancient
fortress, filled with churches and convents reverence. From the Alcazar we went
and with the ruins of convents and down to the large irregular square, sur-
churches. The railway and the govern- rounded by uneven arcades, where the
ment manufactory of arms, the only two populace collects in crowds when the
things distinctly modern, are a long way sun is hot; and on this day it was hot
outside tile town limits. On the high indeed. People sat motionless on the
hills, where old Toledo sits enthroned, great stone benches, absorbing, as I have
cradled with walls which have defied the seen them do in Florida, the divine
centuries, no spindles hum. no looms beauty of the air and the sun. Mule-
clash. You wonder in vain on what the teers from the country round about had
population lives; you cannot find out. east themselves on the ground near their
But it certainly does live, ami live well ; beast;;, and were lazily smoking and
for as the hour of the mid-day meal dreaming. None of these men, of what-
approaches you see hundreds of pretty ever class, felt worried about, the uses or
olive-colored servant-girls, hurrying to abuses of life, the shadow of the grave,
their employers' homes, with market- or any such nonsense and
; I felt, sure
baskets piled high with appetizing dis- that had they possessed intelligence
play of vegetables, fruits, and meat. enough to comprehend the purport of
and with sundry fat bottles protruding Mr. Mallock's book. " Is Life worth
from among the other treasures. There Living?" they would have waved it
are eighteen thousand or twenty thou- gently aside as an intellectual atrocity,
sand people in Toledo, and only a small not worth their serious attention. Some-
percentage of the number subsists by thing of the calm and dignity of the Moor-
begging. The others live. Ah ! how- ish gateways and the massive cathedral
do they live? walls seems to have crept into the de-
They evidently cared little for our meanor and the thought of these good
opinion of them. They looked down people of Toledo.
from their windows at us with a cer- The shopkeepers do not seem much
tain delicate scorn in their glances as if in earnest. There were no rich shops,
thinking, " Here are more barbarians filled with articles of luxury for sale,
come to view the proofs of our former such as one would be sure to find in a
grandeur." We finished our ramble at town of twenty thousand inhabitants in

the Alcazar, a beautiful edifice, which America. People have finished their
stands upon the site of an old Gothic buying of furniture, pictures, and plate,
fortress. If was almost entirely built and so great bazaars, tilled with such
by Charles Y. and by Philip II. It was things, are lacking. The chemist and
burned in 1710 by the armies, German, the tailor had a melancholy look. They
English, Dutch, and Turk, during the did not seem to be over-confident of a
war of the Succession. Charles III. had paying patronage; but saddle and har-
the magnificent staircase and many other ness, horse-gear and mule-gear, stirrups
parts of the structure restored in 177:2 ;
and belts, daggers and pistols, guns and
but it was again burned in 1812, and knives, were evidently in constant de-
now tin 1
Spaniards have courageously mand. Spain is still the country of the
rebuilt it anew. The patio, or interior wandering horseman, armed to the teeth,
court, with its majestic columns and the and ready for adventures on hill or in
staircase of honor, won our respect and valley. From this sun-blessed square,
with its dozing crowd, we went down to molten gold. There are no less than
the smaller place in front of the mighty twenty -three chapels, which are so many
cathedral. Here, again, we found dozens little churches, all grouped around the
of persons basking
. in the sun, a few greater cathedral, and they were spe-
children gambolling in a slow, lazy fash- cially constructed, at widely divided
ion, not even deigning to get out of epochs, as places of burial for celebrated
our way, but allowing us to walk over warriors and churchmen. It was in GG7,
them. if we may believe the pious tradition,
This great church, which men labored that tlie Virgin appeared to St. llde-
at for two hundred and fifty years fonso, Bishop of Toledo ; hut this church
before its exterior was complete, and had been founded a century before by
which is a pearl of Gothic architecture, a Gothic king converted to Catholicism.
threw a frowning shadow across our After the invasion of the Moors the
path. seemed warning us to set aside
It cathedral, of course, became a mosque,
the light and trifling spirit of the super- and the Moors kept it a:; their place of
cilious traveller, in which we had been worship even after the triumphal entry of
viewing and commenting upon things all Alfonso VI. until one night the Chris-
,
that morning, and to approach its won- tians arose, and, violating their prom-
ders in reverential attitude. I sat down ise, took back the old cathedral, and
on a bench in front of the church and consecrated it anew to their own worship.
studied the rich portals until quite lost The foundations of the present cathedral
to everything else. The men who wrote were laid in 1227, and the edifice was fin-
in this stone book, as Victor Hugo would ished in 1493. When we had concluded
say, of hell, of pardon, and of the judg- our study of this facade we went round to
ment, were blessed with elevated imagi- the southern one, to the Door of the
nation. It is not a little suggestive of Lions, as it is called. We tried in vain
the spirit of the Catholic church, that to examine the beautiful small statues
the page, or the portal, devoted to par- with which the portal was studded.
don is the most elaborately rich. This The effort made our heads ache and
is exquisitely beautiful, worth journey- brought black spots before our eyes.
ing hundreds of miles by Spanish railway Northward arose the high and forbidding
to sec. The others are sometimes rude in walls of the cloister and dozens of an-
detail, hut powerful in ensemble. From cient houses, with carven fronts and
the right of this monstrous facade, the windows protected with iron railings,
stones in which seem to breathe forth also -arved with hundreds of quaint de-
life, springs the graceful church-tower, vices. Behind the church, in a gloomy
ninety yards high, and holding in its building, now a posada, once sat the
belfry a chime, one bell of which weighs Holy Inquisition, and from the vaults
forty thousand pounds. On the left is sometimes were heard, in the old days,
the renowned Mozarabic chapel, sur- the shrieks and groans of tortured pris-
mounted by a handsome octagonal cu- oners.
pola. This fronts the west, and the We went into the cathedral and found
glories of the setting sun linger on it preaching in progress. After a long
winter and summer evenings before they walk through the shades we came to
settle down to turn the ruddy waters of the central structure, found in all
the Tagus for a. moment into a Hood of Spanish churches, and which in this im-
pressive is of most fabulous

cathedral have set her feet, and his face took on a
magnificence. Our eyes wandered from kind of awe as he saw the fervor and
alabaster figures of saints and martyrs sincerity of these simple ones, who
down to the precious and richly carved believe that the stone has certain power-
nulls of wood on which they rested, and ful virtues. All the beautiful French and
then up lo the frowning and monstrous English cathedrals sink into insignifi-
columns of marble. One could but cance beside this of Toledo. Spaniards
faintly describe this coro, for the amount themselves think that the exterior archi-
of detail fatigues the sense of observa- tecture of 1!iis church is inferior to that
tion. In a high pulpit, which seemed to of the Cathedral of Burgos; but the
spring as lightly as the blossom of a superb mass of seemingly inexhaustible
honeysuckle from among the gigantic riches collected within the wal'.s over-
pillars, was a priest, lecturing a large whelms the spectator. Here the past is
procession of red-cloaked seminarists, crystallized. This is at once cemetery
who sat submissively below him. The and temple of worship, volume of his-
ox-like beatitude of these youths' faces tory, and museum of antiquities. Poetry
impressed me. 1 wondered if tiny had and romance are in every corner. Knights
really got the vocation, or if their pas- and ladies, famous long ago, seem to
sions were still asleep. We thought sleep lightly on their sculptured tombs
that, considering the absolute humility of and to be ready to arise at a signal. The
his audience, the priest was rather em- red hat of a cardinal hangs above a mar-
phatic and declamatory. In the live ble sarcophagus. How long has it been
enormous naves of the church and in all thin'? Longer than the United States
the chapels ran an odor of incense, soft, has been a nation.
sweet, and penetrating. It seemed to And when the priest had finished his
enter our very souls. My companion sermon, and the red-cloaked seminarists
rebelled against it. He said he felt as had gone forth, and the women who
if there were a, kind of moral taint, a had been squatting on the stone pave-
species of spiritual subjection in it, and ment had arisen and departed, tremulous
he longed to get into the open air. organ-music stole through the air, and
But even he was half persuaded came to us like a benediction. From
to bow in adoration before a. deli- the hidden choir rose the pure voices of
cate and perfect marble croup, repre- boy choristers, singing praises over and
senting the Virgin and the Child, on over again, while the round voices of
the spot where the Virgin is supposed monks chimed the responses. We
to have appeared to St. Ildefonso when were about to leave the cathedral, but
he brought down the holy chasuble. He we could not. The magic of the music
stood and watched the faithful as they was all-powerful. We sat down in a
came one by one to touch the stone on corner and listened.
which the divine mother was said to
EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM. 121
CHAPTER TWELVE.
Dead Celebrities. — Don
Alvaro tie Luna and his Famous Chapel in Toledo. —
The Aneient Gates. The —
Cloister of San Juan de Los Reyes. —
Cordova. — —
The Mezquita. A Relic of the Moors. The —
Plain of Seville. —
The Giralda. —
The Cathedral.— The Gardens of the Alcazar.— The Duke ol
Montpensicr.
OPAIN has more dead than living two children; whereupon the young
^~J celebrities within her limits, and monarch fell into such a profound mel-
among them none is more worthy of a ancholy that his beloved Don Alvaro
note of respectful admiration than the was summoned back to court at once.
old constable Don Alvaro De Luna, Thenceforward the path of the ambi-
whose tomb is in this ancient Cathedral tious page was strewn with proofs of
of Toledo, in the Santiago Chapel, one royal favor, and it was not many years
of the best specimens of the highest before he attained the highest office in
period of florid Gothic art. In this ex- the kingdom, — that of Constable of
quisite chapel reposes on a white marble Castile.
tomb the body of the great constable, In 1431 he was victorious in the famous
who had such a romantic history, and battle in which the Moors were pursued
who finished his career upon the scaffold even to the walls of Granada. The vic-
in 1453. The Spaniards say that the tory of Olmedo delivered King John II.
constable, who was very pious, had from the ambitious intrigues of his
arranged, years before any thought of cousin ; and for this feat of arms, which
death had touched his spirit, that his was, perhaps, the proudest in Don
mausoleum should have a statue which Alvaro's career, he received every honor
should kneel dowu during mass, and and courtesy which his royal master could
might rise up again at the end of the bestow upon him. But thereafter his
holy office. This strange order was fortunes declined. John II. became
carried into effect, and the statue was, jealous of him, and was, so the legend
so the legend runs, placed in the cathe- says, anxious to seize upon the immense
dral ; but the great Isabel ordered it to riches which the constable had accumu-
be removed because of the irreverent late.!.
nature of the curiosity which it provoked So he ruthlessly exiled his favorite,

among the faithful. and then Don Alvaro, for the first time
Don Alvaro first makes his appearance in his life, committed a crime. He be-
in history as a page in the service of the lieved that he had been supplanted in the
young King John II., in 1408, while the favor of the king by a certain Alonzo
king was still under the tutelage of the Perez, who had been his own secretary.
queen mother. The two young people He managed to get this ungrateful servi-
were united in the closest bonds of tor a fatal fall from the to]) of his house
friendship, but the courtiers became in Burgos, having had the balustrade
jealous of the influence which the page sawn away, and pitched after the victim,
had upon the king, and separated the in order to make the public believe that
—
122 EUROPE I\ STORM AND CALM.
the murder was an accident. Dim Alvaro can more than faintly reproduce the
w:is arrested anil handed over to the beauties of this Gothic monument, once
executioner. His head was exposed in a vast church and cloister, which must
the market-place of Valladolid for nine have been a very haven of delight for
days, :iml he who had been fur thirty the weary churchmen and warriors who
years the most powerful man in Spain reached it alter toiling across the bleak
was buried by public charity. l>ut in plains and through the dangerous moun-
process of time Ins evil deeds were for- tain passes. It was built in 1476, by
gotten, :iinl liis glorious ones seemed to Ferdinand and Isabella, as a votive
entitle him to the bright place which he offering after the famous victory of Toro,
occupies to-day in the noblest cathedral gained over their neighbor, the King of
in northern Spain. Portugal, who was always covetous, and
Another chapel of marked interest is who supported the intriguing pretender
that nf "Tin.' new Kings," which was to the crown of Castile. The portal of
built under Charles V., and in which arc the church, a century younger than the
many tombs of kings and queens of the church itself, is supremely beautiful;
thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. ( me but the chief gem of the monastery
begins to understand the reverent awe was its cloister, which is the most mirac-
with which the citizens of Toledo speak ulous specimen of carving in stone that
of the great cathedra] when he lias I have ever seen. Its beautiful arches
wandered among those royal tombs, and are to-day half-ruined; the garlands of
lias learned that within those noble walls leaves, of (lowers, of birds, of chimeras,
is a great epitome of Spanish history. and of dragons, are degraded, and many
From the church we went out for a of them have been taken down to be re-
walk around the old walls of Toledo, and produced by the restorer's chisel. The
visited in turn the beautiful Gate of the finely carved colonnades, the little
Sun ( Puerta del Sol), in which the widely groups of pillars, within which lurk the
varying styles of the Moresque, the statues of some shy saints, who look
Gothic, and the Renaissance epochs are down from their refuge as if half afraid
so strangely united; and that other of the invading hand of modernism ; the
ancient gateway, the Arco del Crista de rich and the standards and
pedestals,
la Luz, under which Alfonso VI. made dais, worked through and through by the
his triumphal entry into the Toledo which cunning artisans, until they arc almost
he had won by his sword. We looked like lace the quaint and extravagant
;
down upon the Tagus from the Bridge of fancies of the mediaeval stone-cutters,
Alcantara, which springs airily across a all this one despairs of rendering in
gigantic chasm, its single arch, in light- weak prose. Outside the cloister, and
ness and beauty, surpassing anything of above the door of the convent, through
the kind we had ever seen in northern which, to-day, one enters the provincial
lands. But of all the treasures of old museum, is a great cross in Gothic style,
Toledo none so won our fancy, not even surmounted by a pelican. On the right
the cathedral so appealed to our poetic and on the left arc statues of St. John
sense, as did the Church of San Juan de and the Virgin Mary, in the face of
los Reyes, which stands high above the which, so say the guides, one sees the
Bridge of St. Martin, proudly overlook- veritable lineaments of the Catholic
ing the Tagus. No written description monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella. All
around the outside of the church hang circled with emeralds and with painted
uncomfortable masses of iron chains and miniatures and we could not help cov-
;
fetters. These are the votive offerings eting the reliquaries, of which this good
of the Christian captives, who were given man showed us at least fivescore.
hack to liberty at the surrender of We went on from cathedral to cathe-
Granada. dral until we were almost persuaded
When we left Toledo we felt as if that all Spain was but tributary to the
we had been in an en-
chanted city for one
hundred years, and had
suddenly been thrown
back into the cold light
of the natural world.
We went away, our eyes
still dazzled with the
treasures which we had
seen in the Sacristy of
the Cathedral, on the
morning before our de-
parture. The superb
custodia,which was made
for the church in 1524,
all of gilded silver, in the
Gothic was deco-
style,
rated with more than two
hundred and sixty stat-
uettes, and literally cov-
ered with diamonds, with
emeralds, and with other
precious stones. Its cen-
tral part, in massive

gold, said the pious clerk
who showed it to us, was
made with the first ore
brought back from Amer-
ica by Christopher Co- THE PUERTA DEL SOL.
lumbus. There, too, we

saw the processional cross in gilded silver, Catholic shrines, and that the revolu-
made by a noted craftsman of Toledo in tionary movements which we had seen
the sixteenth century and the standard
;
in favor of modern progress and liberty
which was planted by the valiant Car- were but the " baseless fabric of a vi-
dinal Mendoza and his men on the for- sion." From Toledo we went down, past
tress of the Alhambra in Granada in Aranjuez, to the Alcazar de San Juan,
1492. The clerk showed us a Bible a wretched and ancient town, chiefly
of the twelfth century, written upon memorable in the diaries of travellers
golden leaves, each leaf beautifully en- because of the discomforts which they
have teen obliged to endure at its huge sculptor, all in excellent degree; the
and comfortless railway station. This home of the great captain of the fifteenth
Alcazar was mice the capita! of the century, Fernandez de Cordova, — isnow
commanderies of the Knights of St. a melancholy spectacle. Commerce seems
John. to take wings to itself and fly away from
We continued our journey into Anda- places which il had once blessed with its
lusia, across the barren and monoto- beneficial presence. Under the Romans,
nous plains of La Maucha, through the under the Moms, even under the Castil-
country which Cervantes lias immortal ians. Cordova was one of the great in-
izeil in Hem Quixote," through defiles dustrial cities of the world. Its silk
and along the edges of precipices as swarmed

factories with workmen and
wonderful as those of northern Spain, workwomen, and the manufacture of its
until we came to old Cordova, half de- stamped and gilded leathers employed
serted, bul Still as picturesque as it was thousands of artisans; hut one by one
in the time of the Caliphs, when it pos- the sources of its commercial greatness
sessed two hundred thousand houses, fellaway, and there has been no internal
and. we may believe the enthusiastic
it' policy, political or commercial, worthy
Spaniards, eighty thousand palaces, seven the name, in Spain, since the beginning
hundred mosques, and more than twelve of the century. So it is not wonderful
thousand villages in its suburbs. The that Cordova shows no signs of the
railway to Cordova passes near the site awakening so perceptible in Barcelona
of the famous battle of Las Navas. and the other cities of the north. There
fought on the 12th of July, 1212, when are to-day but a few wretched iiiiiiiu-
the Moors were defeated with a loss of factories of ribbons and of gilt in the
many thousands and were
of men, town; but the jewellers are numerous,
forced to give into the hands of the and their windows are tilled with gold
Christians the fertile domain of Andalu- and silver work, which is massive and
sia, where they had been so happy. honestly made, although without much
It is stupefying to the traveller from delicacy or elegance,
the Occident to wander through Cor- Cordova had been but little touched
dova. From whole quarters of the city by the revolutions which succeeded each
the inhabitants have gone away; long other with such rapidity in the peninsula
streets are filled with houses entirely un- after 1868; but since the revival of the
occupied, and here one may learn to un- monarchy of Alfonso XII. there has
derstand the gradual ruin which overtook grown up, all through the fertile domain
the cities of the East. of Andalusia, a socialistic movement,
The ancient town of the Senecas and which perhaps had its origin in the sub-
of Lucan the illustrious cradle of the
; terranean workings of the International
poets of Cordova, of whom Cicero spoke in ISO'.), and the years directly preceding
with so much enthusiasm; the city in it. The taxation of the present mon-
whicli Moorish physicians, surgeons, and arcliy has been almost ruinous for many
philosophers, jurisconsults, and minis- of the industries of Andalusia, and it is
ters of state, wrote works which have remarkable what persistence one
with
been translated into half tin' languages Spanish monarchy follows ther Span- i
of Europe; the birthplace of Cespedes, ish monarchy in neglecting to develop
who was poet, painter, architect, and the resources of the country. Shortly
after returning from a journey in Spain day the Holy Church has baptized it as
I took up the descriptive itinerary of a cathedral ; but to the eyes of all the
that country, written nearly fifty years poetically inclined it will still remain the
ago by Comte de Laborde, and in it the mosque which the splendid Caliph Al>-
author, who was a painstaking and care- derahman built in the year 170 of the
ful observer, laments that the whole Ilegira, as the Arab chroniclers tell us.
country between Seville and Jerez de la and in which have been seen so many
Frontera, which is naturally one of the splendid parades of Moorish military and
most fertile bits of land in the world, is civic grandeur. This beautiful structure
left to run to waste, because the oppres- occupies the site of the first cathedral
sive taxation, and the indisposition of that the Goths had built on the place
the local authorities to aid in making where they had found traces of the
improvements in the provinces, had dis- temple of Janus, which the Romans had
couraged the farmers. What the Comte erected there. The Mezquita is even
de Laborde said fifty years ago is per- built out of the ruins of the two preced-
fectly true to-day. If progress is made ing structures, and nearly all the columns
in Spain, always excepting the recent which are so striking a feature of the
vigorous movements in Catalonia and mosque are very ancient. The edifice
elsewhere in the north, it may be set is five hundred and thirty-four feet long,
down as certain that it is the work of and nearly four hundred feet wide
the English or some other enterprising within. The walls are built out of
strangers. Andalusia, wrote our observ- huge stones, hewn coarsely, and uneven
ing friend fiftyyears ago. so abounds in size. The northern side is covered
in wheat that it has been called the with ornaments in stucco, which are
granary of Spain but to-day the poorer
; carved with the greatest delicacy; and
classes find it difficult to get enough to at the principal entrance are six jasper
eat. Probably one of the reasons for columns of exquisite beauty. A massive
this extreme poverty is their unwilling- square tower rises at one side of this
ness to work ; but there is little induce- strange building. Its windows are
ment to labor in a country where the ornamented with white and red marble
government takes the larger part of columns and at the top are little arches,
;
one's earnings so soon as one has earned in the form of festoons, sustained by a
them. great number of diminutive columns.
The society of the Mano Negra, or The court-yard, nearly two hundred
the Black Hand, was formed a few feet long, with a marble fountain in its
years ago in Andalusia, its direct objects centre, is another curious feature in
being the plunder of the rich and the the mosque. This is the place where
assassination of the oppressors and the ; the faithful made their daily ablutions
creation of this society was provoked after they had left their shoes at the
exactly like that of the Nihilists in toot of the tower near the entrance.
Russia, by intolerable abuses and This superb court-yard is surrounded on
tyranny, from which there seemed no three sides by a fine portico, supported
appeal except by conspiracy and vio- by seventy-two columns. In the middle
lence. are planted orange and lemon trees,
The jewel of Cordova is its ancient cypress, palms, and many other tropical
mosque, still called the Mezquita. To- and semi-tropical shrubs. Here nature
and art are married in the happiest Here are no vaults, but the ceilings are
manner, with that felicity and harmony made of simple wood, without ornamen-
which the Moors so well understood. tation, but beautifully joined together.
When the troops who accompanied The mosque was left in its original form
Joseph Bonaparte into Andalusia en- until the beginning of the tenth century,
tered this dazzling court-yard for the at which time the zealous chapter ob-
first time they could not suppress shouts tained from the king, although the citi-
of admiration. The chapter of the zens of Cordova protested against the

cathedral,in its most brilliant costumes, mutilation of the beautiful monument,
came forward to meet the new monarch, permission to build in the centre of the
who was destined to have such a short structure a huge chapel, which is like a
stay ; the people pressed in crowds round church within a church. But, in spite of
the cortige; and the great enclosure, its rich accumulations of marbles, of
with its antique, oriental stones, with its paintings, of tapestries, and of frescoes,
African palm-trees spreading above the it looks cold and out of place in this
verdure of the low orange shrubs, which Moorish mosque, which seems to attract
mingled the perfume of their flowers to it the heat and the translucent color
with the incense from the
escaping of Africa.
censers the branches, which were dec-
;
After a day's wandering
in and about
orated with thousands of ribbons and thismosque we felt that Cordova had no
flags of all colors the clash of the drums,
;
further charm for us. We did not stay
and the noise of the artillery outside ;
to visit the great Episcopal Palace, with
the superb vault of the sky, in a word, — itsmarble staircase, the balustrades of
the unusual beauty of animate and inan- which are lined with ornaments in bad
imate tilings formed such an ensemble taste, nor to inspect the seemingly innu-
that the troops, who had French eyes merable portraits of the bishops of Cor-
for the picturesque, were ravished, and dova, nor the remains of the palace of
swore that they would never depart from the Moorish kings, which I fancied ex-
such a beautiful place. This mosque isted only in the imagination of the .Span-
has seventeen doors, covered with bronze ish chroniclers ; nor to the Royal Palace,
plates. Within the vast structure are which, surrounded by its gloomy walls,
nineteen naves, each three hundred and looks like a citadel occupied by a foreign
fifty feet long, and more than fourteen invader, who is compelled to protect him-
feet wide, running from the south to the self from tin 1
inhabitants. Indeed, this
north ; and across these, from east to might be construed, perhaps, as the
west, run nineteen smaller naves. All present position of the monarchy in
these are formed by long lines of columns, Spain. At Cordova one of the old
and the effect is as fantastic as beautiful. palaces is used as a stable for the splen-
Many of the columns are of jasper, did Andalusian horses which are raised
which closely resembles turquoise ; others in the neighborhood; and in this stable,
and reddish-
are of the finest red, white, in 1792, stood six hundred almost price-
yellow marble. Most of them have Co- less horses, the very perfection of their
rinthian capitals, and few are more than race. The Spanish monarchs of this
eleven feet high. There are in this century have not paid so much attention
wonderful mosque no less than one thou- to horses as to bulls. Here and therein
sand and eighteen of these columns. Cordova one sees the spacious enclosures
EUROrii IN STORM AiVD CALM. 127
intowhich the wild bulla arc driven when the Hebrews, to the Chaldeans, and to
they are brought up from the plains to be the Phoenicians. What is certain about
partially subjugated before they arc given the old town's history is, that its inhab-
over to the pleasures of the
populace in the ring. r- ;
..../;.
From Cordova to Seville is
a pleasant excursion through

one of the most fertile plains
in Spain, among the vines

and olive trees, through gr< >ves
of cactus and of palm. The
railway is even hedged in by
rows of gigantic cacti, which
grow in the most fantastic
form. Seville stands in the
midst of this plain, which is
traversed by the Guadalqui-

vir. At first sight it is not
imposing. The streets are nar-
row, tortuous, badly paved.
The eleven thousand or
twelve thousand houses in
the town are very solidly

built, and any one of any
importance has a great court-

yard surrounded by galleries,
supported by columns, and
has fountains in the centre.
The entrance to each of these
patios, as the courts are
called, is closed by a door of
open iron-work, in which the
artisans of Seville arc very
adroit. summer, when
In
the intense heat falls upon A PATIO IN SEVILLE.
this plain, the inhabitants
of Seville live entirely in these open itants have always manifested a Parisian
courts, over which they spread gayly discontent with their sovereigns and
colored awnings. They desert their forms of government; that they have
6leeping-rooms and lie on cool couches in sustained three sieges, two of which are
the corridors, lulled to rest by the music among the most remarkable in history.;
of the fountains, lint, as nothing is per- that they revolted against the King of
fect in this life, they have a compensat- Cordova in the eleventh century, and
ing torment in the omnipresent mosquito. set up a King of Seville for themselves ;
The foundation of Seville is variously were brought back under the empire of
attributed to Hercules, to Bacchus, to the sovereigns of Cordova raised anew
;
;;
128 EUROPE J.Y STORM AND CALM.
the standard of 1111, and

rebellion in point of departure and arrival for the
again chose a king whose descendants huge fleets which traded to the land of
laid down the law to Cordova. When the setting sun ; when troops of hardy
Ferdinand II., King of Castile and adventurers thronged the quays of the
Leon, took possession of Cordova ami Guadalquivir, anxious to embark for
Jaen, in 1236, Seville threw off all au- adventure in America. " Seville," says
thorityand declared herself a Republic; a melancholy Spanish writer of the pres-
that her people should he governed by ent day, "is now a body without a soul
the laws which they made for themselves. and yet" —

he adds with quaint sad-
But Ferdinand II. circled Seville with ness —
" the vessels could go up the
his forces, and set siege to it in 1247, Guadalquivir to-day as readily as they
and after twelve months of grim resist- did four hundred years ago." Here
ance the town succumbed, and was came the gold and silver from the colo-
thenceforward to he a jewel in the crown nies ; here were furled the sails of the
of Castile. galleons after they had been chased
The two chief beauties of Seville are along the shores by piratical or inimi-
the Alcazar, the ancient palace of the cal fleets, which laid in wait for them
Moorish kings, which, since the fall of as they came home from the rich West
the Moors, has been restored and much here were thousands of workers in
enlarged, especially in the reign of the silks, in gold and silver tissues, in flax
sombre and terrible Peter the Cruel; and cotton stuffs; but now they arc all
and the Metropolitan church, or cathe- gone. In 1601 the seventeen guilds
dral, a noble twin to that of Toledo, of the city of Seville made a report
and one of the most splendid edifices in concerning the prosperity of the town.
Europe. The cathedral, the old tower There were then a great many silk
of the Giralda, built by El Gebir, the factories, employing thirteen thousand
inventor of Algebra, which is named men and women. Two centuries later
after him; the archiepiscopal palace, there were hardly two thousand silk
and the old library in which lie the weavers in the town.
thousands of manuscript records con- During two visits in Seville I found
cerning the discovery of the New World, that the Cathedral commanded and ab-
— are all grouped together in a beauti- sorbed my attention. As in Venice the
ful square bordered with orange-trees. stranger naturally makes his way twice
We were admitted to the library, where or thrice daily to the Place of St. Mark,
we saw infinite portraits of archbishops so in Seville, whether or not one be
of Seville, but not many of the discov- piously inclined, he pushes aside the
erers of America; and where we found leathern curtains on the door-ways at

no books of more recent date than the the entrance of the Cathedral several
close of the last century. But why times each day ; and at each visit to the
should the library of the church have interior of tin 1

great church he finds
books of recent issue? seems Seville something new on which to feast his eyes.
to have fallen asleep in sunny plain its Now it is a dance of pages, in mediaeval
beside the broad, lazy river, and to costume, before the great central altar;
have forgotten the glorious days when now it is a procession, — and where are
it was the centre of (he commerce and the religious processions so picturesque
the wealth of Spain; when it was the and so rich in color as in Spain? — now
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 1 2'.)
a sermon by some buxom friar to a con- sixteen thousand dollars of our money.
gregation of one or two thousand ladies, This is carried in the procession on the
whoare seated on the flag-stones, humbly day of the festival of the Holy Sacrament.
taking in the word of the
gospel ; now, it is the fu-
neral of some nobleman,
with majestic singing by
scores of monks in the
carven stalls of the coro:
in short, it is a perpetual
succession of spectacles,
each one of which has its
peculiar charm.
In the Sacristy are the
famous tables given by
Alfonso the Good to this
historic church. They are
of gilded silver without,
and of gold within, and
covered with chisellings
encrusted with precious
stones. There, also, is
the great silver key, on

the wards of which is the
inscription, " < tod will
open and the King will
enter." Underneath the

ringof this key are graven
ships, lions, and castles.
The custodians say that
this was the key given by
the Moors to King Fer-
dinand when they gave
up the city of Seville.
There, too, is a majestic
chandelier of bronze,
which serves for the office
of the Holy Week when

the streets of Seville are BEGGARS AT THE CATHEDRAL DOOR.
transformed into a vast
religious fair, and wheu the hotels are It is of incomparable richness, and is
thronged with visitors from the four quar- covered with most curious figures of
ters of the world. This chandelier is filled angels and of saints.
with columns, caryatids, statues, and other From the top of the Giralda Tower
ornaments in relief. In this Sacristy is the we looked down upon the great square
Tabernacle, worth fifteen thousand or in which the Inquisition used to roast its
unhappy victims, and tried to imagine the gallant princes who took part in the
the scene ; but seemed to vis incredible
it first campaigns in Algeria. Bravery has
that so .sunny, so peaceful, and so beau- always been one of his chief qualities,
tiful a place should have been chosen and it Stood out in stroll"; relict' in his
for the exercise of the race of themost fatal duel with his cousin, the- Infante
bigoted monks the world has ever known. Don Enrique de Bourbon. The Duke
We preferred to dismiss from our married, in 1846, the sister of Queen
thoughts the remembrance of these nor- Isabel of Spain, a marriage which at the
rors, recollecting that the Inquisition has time was considered a very adroit piece
long ago had its teeth drawn, and to call of management on the part of Louis
up, as we looked over beautiful Seville, Philippe, and caused great irritation, and
the poetic figures of the great painters almost open rupture, between France and
and sculptors who have made the town England.
illustrious. The school of Seville counts The Duke has been much disturbed by
among its glories, Zurbaran, Fernandez, revolutions. After the events of Feb-
Velasquez, and Herrera. Murillo was. ruary, IMS. in Paris, he lied to England
in point of fact, not a native of Seville, with his family ; thence to Holland, and
although the Sevillans claimed him as afterwards to Seville, where he has
one of their own. But lie has left in the finally settled in the charming palace
town a hundred evidences of his great- just mentioned. lie was compelled to
ncss. and none more striking than the leave Spain after the fright of Queen
paintings in the chapel of the hospital Isabel in 1868; gave up his rank in the
for indigent old men. In this chapel the army, his title of Infante, and his deco-
paintings are kept reverently screened by rations which he had received from the
curtains, which the attendant nuns will Queen; but, under the provisional gOV-
draw away for the stranger who bestows eminent, he got permission to return to
charity upon the hospital. Seville, and then set up his candidature
The gardens of the Alcazar seemed for the empty throne. About that time,
more like the sudden embodiment of a however, his chances were ruined by the
poet's dream than like the result of the above-mentioned duel, which must cause
carefully planned luxury of Moorish and him many a twinge of science, al- c
Spanish sovereigns. They are still though his attitude, as men of the world
maintained in their pristine beauty, and consider such things, was strictly correct,
are filled with fountains, groves of orange There had long been a quarrel between
and lemon trees, and with a profusion of the Duke and his cousin, which was
delicate tropical plants and flowers. brought to a sanguinary conclusion by

Not far from these gardens of the Don Enrique's letter, talking about the
Alcazar is a palace in which resides, for " suborned villains " who were ready to
some portion of each year, the Duke de proclaim Montpensier King of Spain.
Montpensier, otherwise known as An- The Duke immediately challenged his
toine Marie Philippe, Louis d'Orleans. cousin, and met him on the 12th of
The Duke ile Montpensier is a well-known March. 1870. on the artillery ground
figure in half-a-do/.en European capitals, about three miles from Madrid. Three
as he is almost as inveterate a traveller shots were exchanged, the )uke. the third I
as Daniel Pratt. He is the fifth sou of time, taking deadly aim and shooting his
King Louis Philippe, and was among cousin through the head. For this little
incident in his career he was tried by a favorite resort for the Orleans family,
court-martial, sentenced to one month's and from his balcony in the hotel he
banishment from the capital, and to pay looked down upon the funeral of Gambetta
an indemnity to the family of his slain not long ago. It is sometimes the fash-
cousin. His political ambitions are per- ion to say that the Duke helps his
haps over, for he now an old man.

is younger cousins to conspire, but nothing
although still and strong, and fond
erect has transpired to prove this. He is, and
of constant bustle and excitement. In will probably remain, as the Comte de
Paris he makes his head-quarters at the Chambord was at the time of his death,
H6tel de Londres, which has long been a monarchical candidate in partibus.
CHARTER THIRTEEN.
The French Empire in 1869. — Subterranean Throes. — Manifestations. — The Assassination of Victor Noir.
— Pierre Bonaparte. — The RMt of Rochefort. — Two Hundred and Fifty Thousand Workmen sing-
ing the Marseillaise. — The Imperial Press Law.
WHEN
autumn
1 returned from Spain,
of 1869, the subterranean
in the cilable Democrats
from one of the
to the Corps LegidatiJ
wards of Paris. He
throes which had been announced by the came boldly into France, and was, of
volcanic shimmer were clearly perceptible. course, arrested on crossing the Belgian
The Empire had met with serious reverses frontier; hut the Emperor, who did not
since the clu.se of its splendid festival of dare to treat Rochefort otherwise than
1867, and there was a strange irony in with consideration, gave the journalist a
the fate which fashioned the instruments safe conduct, allowing him to remain in
of its destruction out of the power which the country until after the election.
it had persecuted most unrelentingly Kocliefort received nearly 18,000 votes
since the coup d'Etat. against 13,415 given to his opponent,
Nothing could be mere interesting to and naturally was safe from arrest SO
a journalist than to watch the battle of soon as he was elected deputy. His
French journalism with the French Em- popularity in those days was so great
this autumn of 1869.
pire, in The two that he could not appear in tin open car-
jiowers were fairly pitted against each riage, or in the court-yard of a hotel, with-
other, neither desiring to give nor to take out attracting an immense crowd. People
quarter. Rocheforthad arisen into a liked to protest against the methods of
power witii which the Empire was com- the Empire by silently manifesting their
pelled to count. He had grouped around appreciation of its opponents. They did
him many unruly and some disreputable not dare to cheer, or to print what they
personages, and was recognized as a thought about the courageous journalists
possible leader in any riot or revolution who were opening the way to the Repub-
which mightoccur, Rochefort had been, lic, but they could not be hindered from
since the annihilation of his Lanteme in "manifesting " now and again upon the
Paris, publishing this paper at little streets.
Brussels, and smuggled into

having it In those days manifestations were
France. The Empire, which had at one much talked of, and the Empire had a
time fined him 10,000 francs, sen- certain dread of them. On the day of
tenced him to a year's imprisonment, my return from Spain, iu October of
and deprived him for a year of his civil 1869, a great gathering was announced
rights, in vain heaped upon him new to de la Con-
take place on the Place
sentences. From his secure retreat in corde. But the cavalry and infantry
Belgium he sent forth most virulent were set in motion, and few people liked
attacks upon the Empire and all the Im- to run the risk of arrest, so that the mani-
perial personages; and to crown his festation was all made by one vapor-
triumph he was elected by the Irrecon- ing, crazy, old man, who had long been
EUROTE IN STORM AND CALM. 133
a familiar sight in Paris, and who ha- great Communal insurrection, to Prince
rangued the Obelisk of Luxor concerning Pierre Bonaparte, to ask satisfaction for
things in general, but was not so crazy an insult which the Prince, who was any-
that he undertook to attack the Empire. thing butprincelyin his manner of speech,
The creation of the Marseillaise by had addressed to the editors of a radical
Rochefort, in December of 1869, was paper, called the Revenge. Prince
scoffed at by the supporters of the Pierre, as the Empire's ill-luck would
Empire, but it proved to 1 power- have it. was temper on the
in a frightful
ful agent in hastening the downfall of morning of Victor Xoir's visit and when ;
THE MURDER OF VICTOR NOIR.
the Imperial authority. The very name the young journalist, accompanied by
of this saucy and vindictive journal was one of his colleagues, entered the apart-
a menace to Napoleon, who had ren- ment of the Prince at Auteuil and stated
dered it a penal offence to sing the his mission, there was a lively quarrel.
Marseillaise in any part of the domain The Prince had challenged Rochefort on
of France. Attached to this paper was the previous evening, and fancied that
a young Parisian journalist, a veritable Noir and his companion had come
enfantdu peuple, ignorant, but energetic, from the celebrated journalist with his
and wielding a caustic pen. On the answer. When he discovered his mis-
10th of January, 1870, this young man, take he took the letter which the young
whose nom de plume was Victor Noir, journalist handed him. read it carefully
was sent by Paschal Grousset, who was through, tossed it upon a chair, and,
afterwards destined to play a rdle in the advancing, said :
—
" ;
" I challenged M. Rochefort because popular quarters, where the workmen

he is tin 1
color-bearer of the mo)) : as had long desired a. pretext to descend
to M. Grousset, I have no answer for into the aristocratic section of the city,
him. Are you in sympathy with these and manifest their disapproval of the
wretches ? Empire and its followers: and there
Victor Noir immediately answered wcic some exciting moments at theTuil-
that he was entirely in sympathy with eries during these bleak January days
the persons whom lie represented which followed the Victor Noir " inci-
whereupon, the Prince gave him a blow* dent," as the Imperial journals called it.
in his face, and then, stepping back, The murder occurred on tile 10th, and
drew a revolver ami fired at Noir, who the funeral was fixed for the 12th, of
was at that moment very near him. January. morning of the funeral
< )n the
The young man pressed his hand to M. Rochefort came down to his office, to
his breast, and managed to walk out of find that his journal had been seized,
the house, lint fell upon the sidewalk, and that a demand for his prosecution
and died almost instantly. A more hail been introduced into the Corps
cowardly assassination was never com- Lrijislutif; and the funeral, which took
mitted, nor one less excusable from place in the early afternoon, certainly
every point of the French-code relative brought together as many as two hun-
to the maintenance of honor. Prince dred and fifty thousand men of the
Pierre's version, carefully prepared working-classes, who left their workshops
afterwards, was that he was attacked and went in orderly and grim procession
by Victor Noir, and that he saw the down and
the long line of the boulevard
other journalist about to draw a pistol ; up the Champs Klvsees. and out to the
whereupon he determined to defend little cemetery where the unlucky Youth-
himself. ful journalist was to be laid to rest. The
The excitement caused by the news Imperial authorities had consigned to
that a member of the Imperial family — their barracks all the troops in Paris,
for Prince Pierre, although he was the with instructions to be ready to march
bite noir of his enthroned cousin, and at a moment's notice, and the workmen
as little imperial as might well be imag- wen' allowed to go to the funeral without
ined, still bore the name of Bonaparte — any molestation whatever. Hundreds of
had assassinated a child of the people, police spies, iii plain clothes, were dis-
is quite impossible to describe. The persed throughout the throng, and car-
Marseillaise appeared next morning ried their reports from time to time to
framed in black, and thousands on thou- the Prefect of Police, who was to inter-
sands of copies were sold on the streets, fere if, on the return from the funeral,
before the police interfered to prevent therewas any attempt at a riot.
a further circulation of an "Appeal to would lie difficult to define the
It
the People." which Rochefort, casting demeanor of the vast crowd assembled
all prudence to the winds, had signed at this gathering. I have seen but
and printed. The head-lines, " Assas- one other demonstration like it in
sination of by Prince Pierre

a Citizen France, and that was, oddly enough,
Bonaparte," " Attempted Assassination also at a funeral, — that of M. Thiers,
of another Citizen by Prince Pierre which took place during the great
Bonaparte," provoked an uprising iii the counter-revolution of 1877, when people,
EUROTE JN STORM AXD CALM. 135
laboring under strong excitement, felt of Police clapped his hands and said,
constrained in their own interests and " Here are a hundred thousand bayonets
"
in those of their country to refrain fallen from heaven to help us !
from any open expression of discontent The clever prefect understood the
with the government. At this funeral value of rain in damping the enthusiasm
of Victor Noir the sea of upturned of mobs as well as did old Petion, Mayor
human faces, all filled with a profound of Paris, who looked out of his window
discontent, a lurking ferocity which was and said, " There will be no revolution
not yet ready to wake into vigorous to-day, for it rains."
Hi
^my.i
f^Xk'yv*/ m i
rfejMv
R0CHEF0RT AND THE WORKING-MEN RIDDEN DOWN.
action, but which seemed to prophesy But revolution was near at hand, and
terrible things for the future, was an im- never nearer than when, as if moved by
pressive spectacle, which no one who some sudden inspiration, some influence
witnessed it can ever forget. The Im- entirely independent of their volition,
perial police knew full well upon that these thousands upon thousands of work-
day that a word, a song, a shout, men began to sing the Marseillaise with
might be sufficient to overturn the a vigor and a rude energy which were
Empire, and a friend who was pres- quite startling. This splendid song,
ent in M. Pietri's cabinet, when the im- which had been so long tabooed, put
mense procession of workmen began to a curious fire blood of many
into the
return from the cemetery, in the midst of the spectators who did not mingle in
of a shower of rain, told me that the ( hief the manifestation. The end of the re-
13G EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
pressive period had come. What no had it not been for the incessant patrol-
man dared to do, what he could not have ling of the streetsby cavalry, a revolu-
done without being fined and imprisoned tion would certainly have occurred that
and qualified as a criminal, two hundred night. Prince Pierre was arrested by
and fifty thousand men could do, and none order of the Emperor, and taken to the
could say them nay. The journal and the Corwiergerie, where he was allowed com-
journalist had brought about this sudden fortable quarters in the director's room.
uprising. It taught the people thatthey I visited him there, and shall never for-
had but move, and the obstacles in
to get the emphasis with which be declared
their road would be brushed aside This that, if he might put himself at the head
was a proud day for Rochefort. lie of a regiment of gendarmes, he would
was the hern of the demonstration at agree to sweep away all the would-be
the cemetery, and from the windows in rioters within two hours. But bis con-
the little house in which the bereaved fidence was greater than that of his Im-
Noil' family lived he had made a ring- perial cousin, who began to feel that the
ing speech, in which, however, he coun- end was indeed near at hand.
selled moderation ami prudence ; for, This was the winter of 1870, and this
be said, ••
The government would like was the second great blow which the
nothing better than to put down forever fortunes of the Empire had received. In
the Republic, if we should try to declare I Leon Gambetta had entered upon
sijs
it As to our vengeance, it will

to-day. the scene of French politics with that
come. From the government we expect theatrical pose ami magnificent abandon
nothing, we wish nothing of it, and which characterized all his movements
nothing further to do with it. Its fall until the sudden and tragic close of his
is fated, and near at band. For this life and it was in connection with a
;
reason I beg you to be patient ami battle of the newspapers against the
calm." Empire that he won immediate and last-
But this advice, like that of the stu- ing renown. Gambetta had been but
dent who begged comrades not to
his little heard of outside the cafis and the
nail the proctor's ears to the pump, was dining-rooms of the Latin Quarter, where
taken in an inverse sense and I have no ; he was wont to air his contemptuous, and
doubt that the thousands who went down sometimes majestic, eloquence, until the
the Champs Flvsees singing the Mar- Imperial ministry prosecuted the journals
seillaise thought that the Republic would which had opened a subscription in honor
be declared that day. Rochefort was of the memory of Baudin, the represent-
obliged to head this strange procession, ative of the people, who was killed upon
but presently found himself confronted a barricade in the Faubourg St. Martin,
with squadrons of cavalry, backed up by at the time of the coup d'Etat. This sub-
platoons of police; and in the neighbor- scription,and the orderly and inoffensive
hood of the Palais de l'lndustrie he manifestations which took place at the
saw the glittering bayonets of regiments tomb of Baudin in the Montmartre ceme-
of infantry. The Riot Act was read, tery, were scarcely worth the rigors in
and the workmen, after great confusion which the Imperial courts had indulged,
and many threats, were dispersed. But and the papers resolved to give battle.
all the quarters inhabited by the humbler The Iti'rcil. which was one of the first
classes were in a perturbed state ; and, journals prosecuted, gave its case into the
EVROl'E IN STORM AND CALM. 137
GAMBETTA IN THE BAUDIN PROSECUTION.
hands of Gambetta. He wanted no finer raugued the head of the Second Empire
opportunity to make the protest which as the betrayer of the trust reposed in
he had meditated upon for years, and in him, and as the destroyer of the liberties
a passionate outburst of indignation, on of France.
one gloomy afternoon, in a little court- This produced an immense sensation,
room in the Palais de Justice, lie ha- all the greater because the country had
been long destitute of a protesting voice, nently to trifle with the liberties of the
and the accusations of the young advo- press. But, from the moment that the
cate rang through the whole land from rim/! (VElut was a success, the Empire
Calais to Marseilles. So ureal, was had signalled out the public prints as
Gambetta's personal excitement on this containing the greatest danger to the
occasion that, as M. Weiss has told us, newly made Empire. To read the press
the Imperial advocate and the president law of that period is almost stupefying.
of the court tried number of
in vain a One wonders how a nation could have
times to interrupt and moderate his pas- permitted such complete degradation of
sionate harangue l>nt their voices were
;
Trial by jury for all press
its liberties.
drowned in the thunder of the lawyer's offenceswas abolished, and the unhappy
speech and in the powerful protestation writer who had offended the reigning
of his delivery. powers was brought up like com- a.
Thus, in an afternoon, Gambetta mon malefactor before the Correctional

stepped into the front rank of European Court. In 1852 a specially odious legis-
orators, and into the opposition to the lation against the press was enacted.
Empire. At the general elections in It subjected all political journals to what
1869 he was adopted as a candidate for might be called a preventive regime,
Marseilles and for Paris. Son of the placing them at the mercy of the gov-
South, with the powerful yet poetic ernment. It so raised the "stamp-
temperament of the people of Provence, tax," and the sum of tin- ••
caution
money " to be deposited,
he appealed irresistibly to the passions that the crea-
and the affections of the people of Mar- tion of a journal by persons of mod-
seilles,and won his election there over erate means was impossible. It then
.such powerful opponents as M. de Les- prevented the foundation of journals
seps and M. Thiers. At Paris his treating of political or social economy
victory was absolute. He chose to rep- without a special decree, which it was
resent Marseilles, and thus permitted difficult to Then, when the jour-
get.
Kochefort to take his seat in the Corps nal was founded, its existence was ex-
Ligislatif, for liochefort had been a can- tremely precarious. A warning would
didate in the same ward as Gambetta. he sent in by an Imperial official, and
lie was soon at the head of the little the editor was expected immediately to
hand of " Irreeoncilables," as they were profit by it; for a third warning carried
called, and was one of the most valiant with it the suppression of the offending
defenders of Kochefort when the govern- journal. It was forbidden to journal-
ment asked the chamber to authorize the ists to give any account of the sessions
prosecution of the editor of the Marseil- of the Corps Ligislatif and the Senate
laise. other than that furnished by the official
Looking back upon the history of the reporters. This regulation, which is
Second Empire, it seems almost incredi- almost Oriental in its despotic flavor, is
ble that Napoleon III. and his minis- justly characterized by a famous French
ters should not have possessed sufficient writer as at once puerile and grotesque.
common-sense to have accepted the But it is useless to pass in extended
lessons of French history. They should review the press legislation of the Empire.
have realized that it has always been I will finish by illustrating the working
fatal to French governments perma- of the stamp-tax. which was one of the
meanest of the small tyrannies levied stamp-tax upon his paper by having edi-
against the free circulation of the printed tions printed in Brussels, and brought into
word. Every American journal which France ; but the Empire soon put a stop
came into France during the Empire paid to this. In the Corps Ligislatif, in 1870,
a tax of six cents. Returning from a a movement was made to do away with
visit to Germany, shortly after the dec- the odious tax ;was immediately
but it
laration of war, and just before the stated that " the government could not
siege of Paris began, I found waiting me allow the abolition of such a source of
atabanking-house eighty American news- income before 1872." The repressive
papers, upon each one of which I was influence of the tax can be best judged
compelled to pay the sum of six cents. of by the fact that the Petit Journal of
This stamp-tax was a grievous bur- Paris circulated only three hundred thou-
den upon provincial newspapers, and sand copies under the Empire but under ;
undoubtedly prevented their extensive the Republic has a circulation of eight

circulation. M. de Villemessant, of the hundred thousand copies.
Figaro^ tried to avoid a portion of the
CHAPTER FOURTEEN.
The Emperor and lii^ Speeches from the Throne. — Opening Day of the Corps Legislatif. — The Opposi-
tion.- -Sketches of the Leading Members.— M. Thiers and his Attitude towards the Second
—
Km lire. The Splendor of
I
his Irony. — His Kloi|iience uaracterized. — Berryer, Lanjuinais, Jules
(
Simon, and Jules Ferry. —

Rochefort and his Yellow Gloves.
FEW scenes
were more unique
in European ceremonies
in glow of pict-
supposed
that
to have suspended their work
they might admire the passage of
uresque uniforms, brilliant toilettes of their sovereign, but who were really, on
ladies, and gorgeous equipages, than the most opening days, " hired for the
opening of the French chambers during occasion."
the reign of the Emperor Napoleon III. The Place du Carrousel is a noble
We have seen that the Second Empire square, into which thousands of persons
was noted for its punctilious regard for can pack themselves without the least
ceremonials, anil the profusion of its inconvenience. Under the smoothly paved
splendor, whenever occasion offered. On Moor were said to run hugepassages, com-
ihe return from Compiegne to town, the munieating with the adjacent barracks, so
Erst duty of the " man of destiny" and that atany time the armed men of Cad-
his retainers was to open the legislative mus might spring out of the ground at a
bodies " with a speech from the throne." sudden signal. The brown walls of the
A procession, in which the order of Louvre, from which look clown the stat-
precedeuce in rank was most carefully ues of the artists and historians of old
observed, passed through the Palace of France, are richly and grotesquely carved.
the Tuilcries on the day of tile opening, The beautiful park in the centre of the
through the roi, ins under the Clock Pa- square is kept green until very late in
vilion, along the Place tin Carrousel, to the autumn, and fountains send up their
the Salle des Etats, in the ancient Louvre, jewelled spray night and day. In sum-
The Cent-Gardes, in their charming uni- mer this park is the resort of contem-
forms of blue and red, rode behind the plative nurse-maids, with babies clinging
Emperor's carriage, in his miniature to their skirts.Hut on the 29th of No-
journey from palace to palace, gazing vember, " opening day," the square was
neither to right nor to left, erect, impel- invaded by the showy carriages of the
turlialile as stone The crowd
images. members of the diplomatic corps and all
in the Place du Carrousel was always the great State functionaries, the magis-
extrenielv democratic. There were trates, and the representatives of the
roughs from Belleville, market-women commercial corporations. The diplo-
from the Ilalles Centrales, commercial matic carriages were passed in review ae
men from the boulevards, and line-look- they sped down the narrow line formed
ing ladies, with their pretty daughters, by the waiting throng, and the occupant
from the Faubourg St. Germain; and of each vehicle was cheered, or treated
there, too, was a fringe of working-men, with contemptuous silence, according as
in blue and white blouses, who were the popular passions were influenced for
THE SPEECH FROM THE THRONE.
or against the country which it repre- tion of his intention to " preserve order,"
sented. appeared upon the scene. A double line
But no demonstrations, either of respect of soldiers extended from the iron fence
or disrespect, were indulged in when the surrounding the Clock Pavilion of the
Imperial master, who had inaugurated Tuileries down to the Louvre door, over
his career by such uu energetic afflrma- which a silken canopy was raised. Orti-
<-cis drawn swords paraded before

with of the gaudy monuments of the eigh-
their men, and presently the Emperor's teenth century, and was built by
carriage, with one before and one fol- an Italian architect for the dowa-
lowing it, drove slowly down through ger Duchess of Bourbon. When the
the double line. In the Salle des Etats Revolution came the palace was confis-
Napoleon mounted the throne in the cated to the nation, and in 1790 was
midst of his cardinals, his favorites, and known as the Maison de In Revolution.
the various dignitaries lie had created; In 1 T'.ij the reception-rooms of the
and the Prince Imperial was placed <m a palace were transformed into an as-
lower chair or stood up nearby. When sembly hall for the Council of the Five
the Empress attended the Speech from the Hundred; and in 180-1 Napoleon I.
Throne she usually arrived a short time ordered the construction of themonu-
In' Tore the Emperor, wliogenerally camein mental facade which overlooks the river
in a hurry, plumped down into the throne Seine. The palace is adorned with bas-
chair, glanced at the decorations and at reliefs, representing Prance standing be-
"
the audience, mopped his face with his tween • Liberty" and "Public order;
handkerchief, looked a little perplexed, a bit of sculpture which (he Emperor, it
then jumped up and began his speech, is said, used to contemplate with great
which was usually of stereotyped form, satisfaction, and which he considered
with very slight changes for an allusion typical of There are also
his reign.
to the important events of the year. In colossal statues to Themis and Minerva,
18G9 he observed in his speech that it and to Sully. Colbert, and other great
was difficult to maintain liberty peace- Frenchmen. The hall in which the legis-
ably in France. After the speech a lators of the Empire sat was in the
salute of twenty-one guns was fired from form of a hemicycle, with seats rising.
the Esplanade of the Invalides ; then the as in a Roman amphitheatre. Around
names of the deputies were called, and about, at the top. are ranged statues of
were frequently saluted by applause or Reason, Justice, Prudence, and Elo-
scornful laughter from the favored ones quence, and between the pedestals of the
who had been invited to the ceremony. columns were bas-reliefs, representing
The little knot of Opposition deputies of Louis Philippe accomplishing certain
the Corps Ligislatif rarely attended the acts of numerous other
his reign. In
Speech from the Throne, and desired halls of the palace are paintings by
their absence to lie interpreted as a pro- Horace Vei'net, and statues of Mira-
test against the Emperor's participation beau, of Bailly, of Casimir Perier, ami
in the politics of the Empire which he General Foy. The throne hall is dec-
had created. orated with paintings by Delacroix.
The work of the session was begun on Attached to the palace is a small and
the following day in the Palais Bourbon, elegant mansion, which is always inhab-
which had been invaded by the soldiers ited by the president of the Lower
of Napoleon III. at the time of the i-mi/i Chamber, and the possession of which is
d'Etiit. and which was destined to be the one of the perquisites attached to his
scene of the Empire's downfall in 1870. office. Here Gambetta came, when at
This old-fashioned palace, with its great the height of his career, to occupy the
door like a triumphal arch in the centre rooms in which the Imperial favorites
of an open Corinthian colonnade, is one had lived before him, and which would
have seemed to him, in 18G9, as far out speak with freedom in the Corps Lcgis-
of his reach as the North Pole. latif; but his mere presence, after his
The old Bourbon was given

Palais tremendous tilt at the Imperial power in
back to the Prince of Condi, who was his speech about the Baudin subscrip-
the grandson of the Duchess of Bourbon, tion, seemed to give fresh confidence and
in 1814 ; but he continued to allow the energy to the men who had been battling
State to occupy it, and the Chamber con- for free institutions, and fighting for an
tinued its sessions there. In 1827 the apparently hopeless cause, since tin' elec-
government purchased from him a part tion of 1857.

of the palace, and in 1830 bought the In that year five Republicans entered
remainder from the Due d'Aumale, the Corps Leg islatif, and allot them were
into whose hands it had come, spending, destined to play an important part in the
it is said, about 10,000,000 francs declining years of the Empire. These
for the purchase. In the Revolution of live men were Jules Favre, Ernest Picard,
1848 the people stormed the Palais Emile Ollivier, Henon, and Darimon.
Bourbon, and when the Constituent As- In those days to speak against the gov-
sembly came itsto take seat (here a ernment was little less than a crime, and
temporary hall was provided for them. the majorities of the Empire were almost
This w;is again invaded on the 15th of unanimous. In this trying school Jules
May, 1848, and was demolished at the Favre, one of the most polished and
beginning of the Empire. accomplished orators whom France lias
There was more curiosity about the ever possessed, won golden opinions on
session of the Corps Ligislatif in the all sides for the richness and beauty of
latter days of the Second Empire than his diction, and, from allgeuerous-minded
people manifest about the sessions of the men, for the liberalism of his ideas.
Republican Chamber of Deputies, chiefly Emile Ollivier. too, had no thought of
because the newspapers were not allowed rallying to the Empire then and these ;
to indulge in the free-and-easy reports few were so accustomed to fighting alone

of the debates which are now so uni- that they were somewhat surprised when,
versal. But there was from 18G7
rarely, in the general elections of 1SC3, Jules
to the Empire's downfall, any remarkable Simon, Glais-Bizoin, and many other
eloquence in the halls of the Palais Bour- men of mark, were added to their num-
bon, unless it came from the little group ber. In 1X114 the new elections brought
of the Opposition. M. Rouher was a con- to the Corps Ligislatif no less personages
vincing speaker only for those who had than MM. Thiers, Berryer, and Lanjui-
made up their minds to adopt the Im- nais. These three strongmen gravitated
perial policy. He would talk on for naturally to the Republican group, al-
hours, uttering platitudes as if they though it is certain that M. Thiers, at
were the most brilliant sallies of wit. that time, would have been loth to declare
In the autumn of 1809, and during the himself a Republican. But their counsels
winter session of 1870, the attention of aud their vast political and legal elo-
the country was closely drawn to the at- quence added strength to the Opposition,
which had been
titude of the Opposition, which the Empire was far from disdain-
waxing valiant year by year, and which ing. "We remember well," writes M.
now had become openly aggressive. Jules Simon, " when all
this epoch,
Gambetta had not, as yet, begun to those who did not give themselves up to
144 KVROl'E IN STORM AND CALM.
the Empire possessed a common hate whenever it was possible to attack ;
and a common love a hate for the gov- : whether on questions of internal or ex-
ernment whose whole history and policy ternal policy; whether upon free trade
reposed falsehood and tended to
1 ) >> > 1 1 or upon lying promises of much-needed
— the
1
tyranny a love for all liberty, which was

; reform, alert ami intense patriot
doubly dear them by the contrast." to was to the fore, never at fault for a
In 1869 the Opposition was still further fact, and drawing from the storehouse
strengthened by the election of MM. Bar* of his prodigious memory a hundred
thi'li'iny St.. Hilaire, Jules Ferry. Gam- wounding and unpleasant souvenirs
betta, Jules Gr<5vy, Rampont, Wilson, with which to assail and belittle the Im-
and the malicious and ambitious Roche- perial legend. It is believed that in
fort. There was but one desertion from the last days of theEmpire M. Thiers,
the ranks of this brave party during the long before he confessed it, was con-
existence of the Empire, and that was in verted to Republicanism by the keen
1867, when Emile Ollivier was converted disgust which he felt for the processes
to the Empire by the specious promises of the Empire. His profound knowl-
of constitutional reform which the Em- edge of European affairs, his immense
peror had made. and tender patriotism, his deep regret
The great men of the Opposition until and shame for the manner in which the
the opening of 1870 were unques- resources of France were neglected,
tionably MM. Thiers. Berryer, Jules and his scorn for the army of courtiers
Favre, and Jules Simon. The attitude and courtesans which blinded the Em-
of M. Thiers towards the Empire was peror to the danger approaching him,
invariably curious, and in some respects caused M. Thiers many a pang which
comical. No figure in the Chamber was he would not confess to the stranger;
more dreaded by the Imperialist party for of all men of this latter half of
than that of this wizened little man, this century, not even excepting Lin-
with his white hair, his wrinkled feat- coln, no man has felt so intensely for
ures, his squeaky voice, and his abun- his country as did M. Thiers. He lived
dant gestures. Around his venerable to see his promises justified, and to
form there seemed to cling the halo of take into his hands, feeble as they were,
half a. hundred ministerial revolutions, at a time when most men are called to
of conspiracies and intrigues innumer- sit in a corner and look on, the defence
able. Wars and rumors of wars, and of the nation which had been so rudely
diplomatic combinations too numerous tried, and to blow into flame with his
to mention, were connected with his breath the almost extinguished embers
parliamentary history. He was a per- of national feeling.
petual thorn in the flesh of the Emperor, The eloquence of M. Thiers in the
whom he persistently treated as an ill- Chamber of the Empire was rarely, as we
behaved stripling. Time was, indeed, came to see it in later days, pathetic
when the old man eloquent, in the and touching, almost surcharged with
pauses of his wrath, came down into tears; but it was harsh, biting, vindic-
the regions of irony, and lashed the tive, sparkling, sometimes wicked. The
Emperor with phrases which, while they practical side of the old man was always
could not lie resented, (ait like the uppermost. He hated, despised, ridi-
thrust of a keen rapier. Wherever and culed, punished ; but he did not weep.
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 14.
r
)
He did not rise into passionate appeal dominates the Assembly with his head
and noble flights of speech until the thrown back. He carries it as Mira-
hour of supreme danger had arrived. beau carried his. lie settles himself in
M. Berryer and M. Thiers made a the tribune, and takes possession of it as

splendid pair. It was not in vain that if he were the master, I had almost said
THIERS IN THE TRIBUNE.
M. Berryer had been called, '-after the despot. But that which is especially
Mirabcau, the greatest of French ora- incomparable in him is the rich sound of
tors." "He is," said an admiring his voice, the first of beauties in actors
writer, who described him when he was and orators." He was a Liberal whom
at the height of his brilliant career, Republicans coveted, and with whom
"eloquent in all his personality. He they could not fail to sympathize, re-
146 EURO I' E /y STORM AND CALM.
membering thai he had been the de- Austria, in 1859, and expended all the
fender of Lamennais, that he had urged resources of his irony on the policy of
the enactment of many democratic laws the government in Mexico. It was sad
and that he had manifested towards the that in later years he was singled out by
Emperor an uncompromising hostility, tin' hand of Fate to take upon his .shoul-
even refusing when he was elected a ders the humiliations which should have
member of the Academy to make the been visited on the Empire, to be put in a
accustomed visit to the Chief of State. place for which he was scarcely lit, — that
It is fair to suppose that had M. Ber- of Minister of War after the establish-
ryer lived to join with M. Thiers in the ment of government of National De-
the
great events which followed theSeptem- fense, — and
to be compelled day by day
ber Revolution in 1870, he, too, might for weeks to fence with that consummate
have announced his faith in the Repub- master of intrigue, the then Count Bis-
lic, frankly relinquishing the monarchi- marck, who was prepared to exact from
cal principles which were no longer France without mercy.
possible in his country. The other Republican figures in the
Jules Ferry and Jules Simon, as Corps Ligislatif were not of enduring
members of the Opposition, were widely importance. M. Barthelcuiy St. Hilaire
different in their methods of attack was a venerable philosopher, who assumed
and in their views on many subjects. considerable prominence after the fall of
Their parliamentary reputation is justly the Empire. Men like Crcrnieux, Es-
great, and will live long in the history of quiros, Bethmont, and Wilson were hard
France. Both had only to open their workers, and made good
occasionally
mouths to charm the listeners. M. speeches. The obstinate and capable
Simon, who is to-day more conservative Jules Ferry, destined to have a lone' and
than he was before the establishment of strong political career later on, was just
the Republic, showed, in his subtle and then emerging from obscurity, writing
adroit tactics, the results of the educa- vigorously in the columns of Republican
tion which he had received at the hands papers against Baron Haussinann and his
of the Jesuits; yet he was and is a tine administration of the city of Paris, and
humanitarian, and was then deeply im- recognized as a growing man, but not as
pressed with the necessity for a complete a leader. Gambetta, as have said, was I
change, personally grieved at the dura- gathering his forces for the great efforts
tion of the Empire, and gifted with such which were to come. M. Grew, who was
facility for luminous exposition of his t<> be the President of the Republic, was
views that he was highly prized, even but little heard of. The Radical clique
by those Republicans who did not think distinguished itself, as it does to-day, by
he went quite far enough. noisy and even by absurd propositions,
Jules
Favre had been a. conspicuous which the Empire treated with the same
figure from the outset of the Imperhil passionless disdain accorded to the party
rnjimr. te had refused to take the oath
1 bv the moderate Republicans of to-day.
to the new constitution. lie defended Rocheforl felt ill at ease ami out of place
Orsini in 1858 in a speech of great bold- in the legislative body. ••lie wore,"
ness for the time. He fought the sup- said a lady "ho described to me his first
pression of the free press with all his appearance in the Corps Ligislatif, — "he
might. I Ie declared against the war with wore yellow gloves." His picturesque
personality procured him much attention, the elected representatives of the people.
however. His tall, gaunt form, his lean The Empire always had its police present
and scraggy features, his forehead sur- at these meetings, sometimes in plain
mounted with a tuft of haii already be-
-
clothes, but often in uniform, and under
ginning to turn gray, were at once seized the pretext that the meetings were of a
as legitimate prey by the caricaturists' socialistic character.
pencils. M. Rochefort never forgot that This accusation was entirely untrue.
he was born a gentleman, and perhaps his The battle, although a violent one, and
yellow gloves were intended as a subtle fought with consummate energy, was
stroke of policy with which to capture lost. The Empire got 7,350,000 citizens
the Extremist mind. to vote "Yes," against 1.500,000
The Opposition made a vigorous cam- "Noes," in favor of its project for
paign against the Plebiscite with which revision of the constitution, and then
the Emperor strove to prop his failing turned triumphantly to Europe with this
fortunes ; and M. Simon has given us a remark: "You see that the Emperor is
lively description of the meetings in the indeed Emperor by the grace of God and
Rue de la Sourdiere, from which head- the will of the people, and that the
quarters the Republicans used to send Empire will endure."
out hundreds of thousands of circulars, — So those who are about to die of a
the only sort of political document which grave malady speak in hopeful and
could be distributed with impunity, and glowing terms of their recovery as near
then simply because it emanated from at baud.
—
14S EUROPE IN STURM AND CALM.
CHAPTER FIFTEEN.
The Epoch of Unification. Danger to France from the National Growth in Italy and Germany.
- -
Na- —
poleon and his Policy of Greed.
III. —
How he was Duped by the Northern Powers. The King of —
Prussiaat Compiegne. —
The Coronation March. —
Bismarck in Paris. The Luxembourg Affair. —
Benedetti and Bismarck. —
The Downfall of the Policy of Compensation.
FROM a French point of view, and tion across the thrones of German
for the purpose of carrying out the dukes and petty princes, and which
traditional policy of France, —a policy was now and then bold enough to talk
which we arc not called upon here either of a vengeance 11)1011 France for the
to approve or Maine. the nation had — miseries and injuries which Napoleon I.
never been so much in need of strong had inflicted upon Germany.
diplomats and able politicians as it was With United Italy on the one side,
during the last ten years of the Second and United Germany on the other, it
Empire. Castelar, in one of those was evident that the policy of France
strange improvisations in which fancy must undergo vast modifications, and
and fact run together in perfect and that her rank as a power in Europe
dazzling harmony, has characterized must fatally be reduced. There were
each of the centuries since the dawn of not wanting Frenchmen who thoroughly
the Renaissance, and has called the nine- understood the danger : Frenchmen wily
teenth century that of democracy. He and experienced enough to have warded
might have added that it was the cen- it off, or to have won for France, when
tury of the unification of peoples. these great movements for foreign unity
In point of fact France was in danger took compensating advantages,
place,
at the very outset of the Second Empire which would have preserved her dignity
from the powerful movements in prog- and her station.
ress in two neighboring countries in But these wily anil experienced
favor of unification. Italy, which had Frenchmen had been set aside. They
been for so long merely an ancient were placed in the ranks of the Opposi-
name, covering, with senne sheen from tion, of a hopeless and barren opposi-
its old-time glory, a feeble series of dis- tion, which could not go to extreme
severed and warring States, had at last limits without risk of summary reproof.
and was work-
felt the national impulse, I town even to a few months before the
ing with might for consolidation
all its outbreak of the fatal war in which Na-
and for unity. Throughout the length poleon III. lost his crown it may be
and breadth of Germany the same said that both branches of the Imperial
feeling was more and more apparent — for it certainly was not a national —
yearly. On the sands of the north, Legislature, were in complete servitude.
where the Brandenburg pirates had A glance at their composition will
once led a rude and reckless existence, serve fully to illustrate this fact.
a power had sprung up, which had The Senate of the Second Empire was
already cast the shadow of centraliza- not only the creation, but the creature,
of the Emperor. It was reestablished duty was to watch the Lower House, and
after the coupd'Etat in 1851, very much to see that never by any sudden caprice,
it ,
upon the model of the Senate of the undertook to change the form of govern-
First: Empire, which drew its breath of ment.
life from Napoleon I., and which pos- The Senate, that is to say. the Em-
sessed the most formidable powers, such peror through the Senate, had the only
as the accusation of the ministers, and right of initiative in legislation. The
the right to sit in judgment upon them, principles of democracy were reversed.
as well as the suspension of all the ordi- Laws did not come up from the Lower
nary rules of criminal procedure : so that House as directly representing the public
the Emperor could consummate any in- will, to be discussed, amended, and im-
which might enter into his head.

justice proved by the grave and reverend seig-
Napoleon III.'s Senate, which was neurs of the Senate but they went down
;
sanctioned by the constitution of 1852, to this second chamber from the Senate,
comprised within its ranks as senators, with an intimation that they were the
by right of their office, the cardinals, outgrowth of the Imperial will, and that
marshals, admirals, the members of the it would not be wise to indulge in too
Imperial family, and in addition to these many commentaries upon them. For
about one hundred and fifty senators over the head of the < 'orps Ligislatif
named by the Chief of the State. always hung the penalty of dissolution.
It was not until April
of 1870 that the In short, the Lower House was merely
Emperor, beginning to understand the tolerated, while the Upper was maintained
immensity of the mistake which he had as the rigid sentinel to watch over the
made in taking entirely into his too safet}7 of the Empire, as the archers of
feeble hands the control of the destinies old watched in the corridors of the
of a menaced, almost fated, country, palaces where the kings took their re-
decided that the number of senators pose.
should be increased, and that the body The Corps LigislaMf, by the constitu-
should more directly represent the feel- tion of 1852, became a feeble copy of its
ings and wishes of the nation. Yet prototype at the beginning of the century.
scarcely a year before this attempted The whole electoral body was divided up
liberalmeasure the Second Empire had into districts containing thirty thousand
conferred upon its Senate the same dan- voters each ; and each one of these dis-
gerous right which Napoleon I. had tricts sent a deputy to the Corps TAgis-
given to his, —
the right to impeach the latif. The members were elected by
ministry and this was done in order
; universal suffrage for a term of six
that any minister, who should be in- years. Their
privileges were confined
fluenced by the aggressive nature of the to discussing and voting upon the laws
popular demands for constitutional re- and the taxation of the Empire. They
form and for a return to liberty, might could not even introduce an amendment
be pounced upon and ingloriously ex- into the laws which had been proposed
pelled from office. to them without the consent of the
The Emperor paid his senators well. Council of State, which was another
He gave them each 30,000 francs per creature of the Empire. It was felt
year, and he felt that their important necessary in the constitution of 1852 to
service was cheaply paid. Their main apologize to the world for this manner of
shutting the mouths of the representa- which the Senate could, as it were, take
tives of the people, and a paragraph of I he place of the Corps Ligislatif in case
that instrument states that the < 'orps the latter were dissolved.
Ligislatif may freely discuss the law, The Senate of the Second Empire lived
may adopt it or reject it, but may not ingloriously, and dispersed in the same
" introduce suddenly any of those amend- fashion. It was not even considered by
ments which so often disarrange all the the people, who were abroad in their
economy of a system, and entirely change might on day of the declaration
the
the primitive project." This sounded of the Republic (September 1, bs7<>),
reasonable to the French people, coming worth while to march to the hall
as it did after the excesses of L848 ; but where the senators were in session,
'm 18G0 the nation had learned the anil to turn them out of office. " No-
terrible significance of the slavery to body," says one of the members of the
which it had subjected itself. government of National Defence in his
In 18G0, as a special favor, an Im- memoirs, " nobody even gave a thought
perial decree gave the Corps Ligislatif to the Senate. It had held, on the
the right of replying by an address to 4th of September, a session at half-
the speech from the throne. This right past twelve. One of the members had
was exercised for only six months, for protested with indignation against the
the Emperor, who was beginning to proposition of impeachment made by
dislike the freedom of the address of the M. Jules Favre, and finished his re-
deputies, withdrew the right and remarks by crying out, in a, loud voice:
placed it by the right of " interpella- 1
Vive I'Empereur! Vice Vlmpiratrice!
tion," or demand in open parliament for Vive le Prince ImpiriaU' All the
an explanation of certain points in the senators joined in the chorus. They
Imperial address. The "tribune," or then discussed the question whether they
tin' kind of pulpit from which French should remain in permanent session, or
parliamentary orators had been wont to should meet again at eight o'clock that
address their colleagues, was suppressed, evening. They finished by deciding that
and deputies were obliged to .speak from they should hold a. session the next day.
their places in the hall of assembly. as usual. This was the last vote of the
The president of the chamber was named session." But, the evening before, M.
directly by the Emperor, and was paid Rouher, who considered a revolution as
handsomely for his services, lodging in inevitable, had asked for a battalion of
the palace of the Corps Ligislatif, and infantry to protect the Senate, and a
receiving 100,000 francs yearly.The general had given him a few customs
Emperor and his followers always made officers as a guard. On the next day,
a vigorous effort to avoid coming into when ithad been resolved to hold a ses-
contact with the Corps Ligislatif, and sion, nothing occurred no senators were ;
interposed between it and them the to be found. They had filtered away
President of the Council of State, or sonic into the crowd, and disappeared to
other members of that body. But the undergo various terms of voluntary
most tyrannical of all the provisions exile.
which the Second Empire had imagined to judge whether Napoleon

[t is difficult
for placing the government in the hands III.saw the gravity of the mistake which
of the irresponsible few was that by he had made, before the great collision at
Sadowa, which brought the formidable and the Slavic, to which corresponded
Prussian nation to the very front of the three centres of gravitation, France,
European powers. Whether or not lie Prussia, and Russia; and the journalists
had learned his error, it was his punish- of the boulevards treated elaborately of
ment that he was obliged to go on alone, the definite establishment of the peace
undertaking a task for which he was in of Europe by means of the "threefold
nowise by nature <>r training,
fitted either alliance of the universal monarchies," in
seeing himself day by day the scorn of which should be epitomized, not only
men whom he knew were competent to the three principal races of the European
extricate him from his position, but out- system, but also the three great branches
side the pale of whose sympathy be had of the Christian church. All this elabo-
placed himself, and from whose knowl- rate twaddle was imagined and planned
edge he could ask no aid. It is the by the adroit politicians of the north,
fashion among French Republicans to coolly and carefully feeling their way
attribute all the disasters which befell among the obstacles which had so long
France after July of 1870 to the be- prevented the consummation of their
sotted policy of the Emperor, which had purpose, and which now seemed likely
neither firmness nor shrewdness, but to be swept away because of the lack of
which was characterized mainly by foresight of a parvenu, who had taken
greed. His foible was observed at an into his hands the reins of government
early date by the apostles of German of a great nation without understanding
centralization, who had been puzzled how dangerous it was suddenly to change
because the French Emperor was not that nation's policy.
disposed to interfere boldly with the IVo just-minded man, and certainly no
various projects which were to lead up American, would for an instant dream
to the unification ofGermany. A of blaming the northern politicians for
clever series of manoeuvres was begun, their scheme of unification, or of too
with a view to discovering how far closely criticising their endeavors to
Napoleon was blinded by his sojourn at lessen and weaken tin' opposition of
thi' height of power, and how far he France to that unification. But, from
could be urged, and possibly persuaded, the French point of view, the Emperor,
into acquiescence in events the accom- because of his blindness and of his greed,
plishment of which neither a French erred unpardonably, and brought about
Monarchy nor a French Republic would the crash which terrified, when it came,
have permitted without a struggle. even such a stunt heart as that of M.
It happened that the King of Prussia Thiers.
found it convenient to make a journey The story goes, that when the Kiie_i of
to Compiegne in the autumn of 1861, Prussia made his first visit to Compiegne,
and there was much talk in the corridors where his renown as a " military prince"
of the palace, and in the clubs and par- — as he was laughingly called by the
lors of Paris, of a mysterious triple alli- courtiers ancHine ladies, who professed to
anceof the three Courts of the Tuileries, consider his soldierly frostiness as eccen-
of St. Petersburg, and of Berlin. Pam- tric and amusing —
had preceded him,
phleteers wrote of the great agglomer- the Emperor ordered out for his guest's
ation of States which represented the delectation the superb regiment of the
three races, the Latin, the Germanic, "Guides;" and the noted band of that
regiment, a band which was celebrated that Prussia had declared war against
throughout Europe, played the " Coro- Austria ; but that, even if Prussia should
nation March." The old lung of Prus- make conquests of territory, France was
siamust have thought of this incident certain to have compensating concessions
when lie put mi his Imperial crown in made to her.
the chapel of the Palace of Versailles. The first downward step in his exte-
No man but himself knows whether in rior policy had been made by
the Em-
those days, nine years before the Franco- peror when he permitted the throttling
German war. he did not dream of the of Denmark the second was taken when
;
invasion of France but it : is certain that lie did not interfere in the brief struggle
his first, act on returning to his home was which ended at Sadowa. There was but
the nomination of Count von Bismarck one step left for him to take, and that
as the director of political affairs, and it he took at Sedan.
was not lone before this great man. After the victory of Prussia over the
w hose reputation was already European, Austrians at Sadowa. neitherthe Emperor
went to Paris to finish at the Tuileries nor the Empress of the French had any
the work so skilfully begun at Com- further illusions. It is said that the Em-
piegne by his king. press, speaking one day of her son, re-
in those days Bismarck was the friend, marked " that he would never reign in
and almost the counsellor, of Napoleon France if Sadowa were not avenged."
III. lie was very often at his side, and The passionate declarations of M. Thiers,
never failed to talk of his plan of the although the Imperial party professed to
reorganization of Europe. This reor- disregard them, were warnings which
ganization, it is scarcely necessary to made them tremble. M. Rouher, as
say, was based upon unity of action of Minister of State, undertaking to place
France and Germany. In compensation in a, favorable light the statements of
for the accomplishment of German unity theEmperor in his speech about Sadowa,
France should have Luxembourg, later employed many specious phrases, but.
on, and should annex Belgium, or should could not conceal the truth. " In ques-
liave her eastern frontiers rectified, tak- tions." he said, " which neither affect,
ing in the great iron districts of the the honor, the dignity, or the practical
Saar, and even getting back Mayence. interests of our country, was it not the
Prussia, meantime, would annex llano- duty of the Emperor's government, after
vei. and would absorb all the German having loudly proclaimed its pacific
States, up to the line of the river policy, to respect and to practise the
Mein. rules of a loyal and sincere neutrality?"
There is no denying the fact that the To this M. Thiers made answer: "All
Emperor was completely won by this that Germany demands of us is the in-
policy of intrigue. —a policy which in difference of France. She could ask
reality contained no promise of fulfil- nothing more to her advantage. Now
meiil which could be exacted, but con- it is this very indifference of which I
tented itself with " glittering generali- have a mortal fear."

ties." The Emperor struck the crowning Republicans and Monarchists appear
blow to his own safety and popularity in agreed, in summing up the causes of the
France without knowing it, when he an- country's disasters, that in 1866 a
nounced, in one of his annual speeches, simple manifestation of French sym-
pathy for Austria would have hindered be considered as a compensation for

the progress of Count von Bismarck, and Sadowa.
would have enabled Austria to inflict So, on the afternoon of the 1st of
upon Prussia a serious humiliation. April, 1867, Count von Bismarck, who
It does not detract from the renown had been receiving the compliments of
of Bismarck to show that he was aided in numerous visitors on the occasion of his
great degree in the develop-
ment of his colossal policy by
the weakness of the dynasty
in France. The fate that had
given the French nation into
Napoleon's hands prevented
that nationfrom interfering
in the beginnings of German
unity in 1866. A year later
it was too late for France to
interfere, or to insist upon
compensation. This was am-
ply shown at the time in 1SII7
when the French government
had decided to bring officially
to the notice of the Berlin
Cabinet the convention con-
cluded with Holland with re-
gard to the cession of the

Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.
In France a party, stung by
the knowledge of the fact that
its country had in some meas-
ure been forced into second
rank by the events at Sadowa,
had manifested a great desire
for a war. The Emperor him-
selfsaw that the time had come
when he must satisfy popular
opinion at home by making an
aggressive movement towards THE MAN OF DESTINY ON TEIE TUILERIES
TERRACE.
Berlin. He yielded to the
representations of the Marquis de birthday, was just about to set out for
Moustiers, who was at that time Min- his place in Parliament, when the visit of
ister of Foreign Affairs, and consented Count Benedetti, the French ambassa-
that his representative in Germany dor, was announced. After the usual
should present a memorandum. If this salutations the ambassador declared
were done successfully, and Prussia that he had a despatch to communicate
yielded, Napoleon thought that the from the French Minister of Foreign
success thus won by France would Affairs.
—
l, »4
r
Count von Bismarck was somewhat to make to the interpellation." Aa

startled. He at once divined the tenor he said this he pushed away for the
fit' the despatch, as the Luxembourg second time the despatch which the
affair was thru in full progress, and French Envoy tendered him. •• I shall
for a moment he probably feared that say that government ignores the
the
Napoleon had erased to be a dupe of and that for that
state of the question,
the policy of promises. In short, he reason I cannot pronounce publicly
felt that peace nr war hung upon a upon its intentions. shall add that I
single thread. 1 have the assurance that no power

His plan (if action was instantly re- will interfere with the incontestable
solved upon. He knew that Bene- rights of the German countries, and
detti was anxious to avoid an
himself that the government hopes to make its
outbreak of hostilities between France rights respected in a peaceful manner.

and Germany, and he still had a hope That is what I shall say. because it is
that Napoleon III. was not personally the truth, and because that declaration
anxious for war, but, as was really the will enable me
to undertake negotia-
case, had yielded to the representations tious amicably, ami perhaps to arrive at
of the angry national party. So when an understanding. But I could not
Benedetti tried to takefrom his pocket give such a. response if I knew that
the despatch. Count von Bismarck arose the convention for the sale of the
and said that lie could not at that Grand Duchy had lieen concluded. If
moment ambassador politi-

receive the I learned of this sale officially I should
cally, as he was obliged to go at once have to say to the Reichstag: 'Yes,
to Parliament. He invited the amlias- such a, sale has taken place; but never
sador to accompany him. and continue will Prussia nor her German allies per-
the conversation as they went along, mit the accomplishment of this convention
As thiv were going through the garden in and the cession <</' /his German territory.'
front of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs You can added Count von Bis-
see,"
Beuedetti tried to communicate
again inarck, very innocently, and quickening
his despatch. Count von Bismarck did his pace, "that after such a deelara-
not reply directly, but as they wended tion a. "rave conflict would he sure to
their way through the alleys of the arise between Fiance and ourselves.
gardens, he presently said : This conflict, taking into account the
" I am going into Parliament, and I impressionable nature of your people,
expect I shall there encounter an ' in- would finish in a rupture, which I
terpellation ' on the question which is should regret as much as you would."
lust now so much agitated in the news- " In fact," said Benedetti. pausing
papers, — the sale of the Grand Duchy and looking troubled, "a war would be
of Luxembourg." inevitable after such a declaration.''
'•Yes, know." I said Benedetti, "and At this point in the conversation the
it is just for that reason that the im- two diplomats and left the garden
mediate communication of my despatch entered the street. Count '• Well. " said
seems to me urgent." von Bismarck to Benedetti, " we must
"Very well." said Bismarck, "but separate here, and must now ask you, 1
I must communicate first to you the ' Have you or have you not a despatch
nature of tin' answer that I am goiu«' to hand me?"
Benedetti bit his lips and reflected a clared the neutrality of the Grand Duchy,
few seconds. " No," he said. He put and decreed the demolition of its fortress.
the despatch back into his pocket, and The policy of compensation, on which
took leave of Bismarck, who went on to Napoleon had based so many hopes, had
Parliament, and responded to the inter- ended in a check to the power of France.
pellation exactly as he told the French The enemies of the country which Na-
ambassador he should do. poleon had undertaken to govern alone
The result was that the Imperial Party had discovered the joints in his armor,
in France presently found that it had the weak spot in his system of govern-
been severely snubbed. The question of ment, and no longer treated him as
the Duchy of Luxembourg was submitted serious.
to the Conference of London, which de-
[56 EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER SIXTEEN.
Prevost-Paradol and liis Fatal Error. —A Journalist who Yielded to the Seductions of the Empire.
The Work which he had Done Against Imperialism. — Danger of Kiots in 1870.—The Execution of
Troppmann. — An Experience of the Secret Police. — Gustave Flourens. — The Arrest of Rochc-
fort. — Flourens and His Insurrection.
" TTTIIU.M the gods would destroy," who had heard that his distinguished
» V says an ancient proverb, " they talents were to be rewarded by some
first make mad." After the fatal step gift by the Imperial hand at the Tuile-
which awakened the French Emperor ries, was advised by an old American
to the folly of his attempted policy of resident in Paris to ask for the post at
compensation" and greed,
'•territorial Washington, and to accept nothing else.
he entered upon a course of reckless Whether or not this were the origin
adventure, now making promises of of the appointment, the Emperor was
reform with such earnestness as to enchanted in winning over to his side,
create new dupes, who in a few short even outward seeming, one of the
in
months were bitterly to regret their journalists who had been so stern and
mistake; now contradicting all that he powerful an opponent of the Second
had promised by violent measures of Empire. M. Prevost-Paradol had a
repression, worthy of the first days of line record, to which a diplomatic ap-
his Imperial career. pointment under the Second Empire

The mention of his dupes calls to was rather a halting conclusion. He
mind the pathetic close of the life was one of those brilliant pupils of
of M. Prevost-Paradol, who accepted that famous Normal School from which
otlice at Napoleon III.,
the hands of came also Taine, About, and other
and who bad scarcely installed him- Frenchmen of this generation, who have
self in his position as French minister won and who worthily wear laurels.
at Washington before his eyes were Academician at thirty-live director ;
opened to the terrible nature of his of one of the most powerful and in-
error, and, his generous spirit torn fluential of French Liberal journals,
witli anguish at the thought that he he was a notable force for good dur-
had unwittingly associated himself with ing all the arid period after the coup
those who were the betrayers of his d'Etat. He wrote constantly and ably
country's honor and the destroyers of in behalf of liberty of the press, of
her peace, he ended his life with his universal suffrage, and of social reform.
own hands. Napoleon III.'s motives He was, like so many French scholars,
for sending M. Prevost-Paradol to the a little afraid of immediate contact
United States were by no means un- with professional politicians and striv-
selfish. They formed a phase of the ing radicals in the arena of universal
apologetic side of the Emperor's course suffrage and the adherents of the
;
during the last year of his reign. I was Empire were fond of saying that he was
told, in 187(J, that M. Prevost-Paradol. devoted to the cause of the Orleans
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. L57
princes. That he had much sympathy the great and lessons of the
events
for these gentlemen there is little doubt, American civil These "Pages"
war.
but, had lie lived, it is probable that he are sprightly volumes, made up of letters
would have rallied, like M. Thiers, to contributed to the old Sunday Courierof
the Republic, and would have been a Paris, —a lively journal, suppressed, in
noble worker in the cause of liberty. 18G"), on the ground that it had insulted
After he had accepted office at the the Emperor, but in reality because its
hands of Napoleon III. he wrote a note politics were in all respects too liberal.
to the Orleans princes, which was in What M. Prevost-Paradol had done

some sense an excuse for associating when he was director of the old and
himself with the reigning powers. " I famous Journal des lh'htit<< he did again,
am tired." he said. " even disgusted with witli all the strength of his matured in-
the press and its bitter polemics; yet I tellect, in the Sunday Courier. He wrote
feel that cannot leave the political
I in a plain matter-of-fact style, in which
arena, though I am anxious to get rid there was yet a curious savor of Mon-
of its battles." His final conclusion was taigne, and which was saturated with
that he could find comfort and strength wit. Now and then a doctrine or an
for future work in the temporary accept- individual was quickly stabbed and bru-
ance of a diplomatic position. tally Hung aside, but the usual method of
I met M. Pr6vost-Paradol for the first M. Paradol seemed to be worrying the

time shortly before his departure for the life out of his enemies by the pricking
United States. He was the only French- of a million tiny blades. In the article
man at a large party in which there were which caused the suppression of the
a dozen American politicians, all of tSiiudoii ('mirier he compared
France
whom went away with the idea that the to a fine lady of the Court, who might
new French minister was a remarkable choose her lover among the noblest and
man. Small in stature, with a face richest in the land, but who chose ignobly
somewhat Jewish in type, lie was not to fly with the stable-man.
impressive when silent, but he was mag- The contemptuous nature of this com-
netic and inspiring in conversation, and parison was quickly reported at the
became at once the central figure of the Tuileries, and M. Paradol went into re-
salon. He had the fascinating quality tirement until his work, called " New
of making the person to whom he was France," was published, in 1868. In
speaking believe that he was especially that book he urged upon the country
charmed by him or her, and he was an the necessity of parliamentary govern-
excellent listener. His English was al- ment, with the greatest possible liberty,
most faultless, although he spoke rapidly and made an earnest appeal for the re-
and nervously. After he lectured in establishment of justice in the courts of
Edinburgh the English papers were the land. Then the wave of circumstance
enthusiastic in their praise of his lin- carried him into the
Corps Legidatif;
guistic accomplishments. He had al- and then came the disastrous mistake
ways been a close student of English which cost him his life.
literature, had written essays on the He had been one of the first to point
Elizabethan period, and in his " Pages out the fallacy of the Mexican expedition
of Contemporary History " he has left and to prophesy its failure. He was de-
many wise and just observations upon lighted with the opportunity of visiting
158 EURO RE IN STORM AND CALM.
America, and told me that he intended nothing about their promenades in the
to visit all the important centres, and to dark. On the great square of the Cha-
study Republicanism where it was prac- teau d'Eau, which to-day is known as
tised without hindrance. But the crash the Place de la. Pepubhque, a troop of
came, and carried down the innocent cavalrymade its appearance at sunset,
with the guilty, and Francelost a thinker and paraded hither and yon, breaking
and a writer whom she could ill spare. up any crouds which gathered at the
As lie left the shores of his native land entrance of the square, or which seemed
the echoes of the reproaches of his former disposed move towards the sections
to
comrades rang in his ears, and when lie of Belleville and La Villette, where the
reached Washington, and found that plebs was beginning to roar. The cav-
society welcomed him lint coldly, think- alry frequently made a sudden raid upon
ing him a renegade, he was struck to the the spectators, and those who were
heart. The declaration of war against caught within the circle of horsemen
Germany completed his humiliation, and wen- marched off to prison without any
so maddened him that he shot himself ill opportunity to explain themselves until
the breast, in his own apartment, shortly the next day. Amusing adventures of
after returning from a public reception. this kind, tempered by no little discom-
He was sincerely mourned by the Lib- fort, occurred now and then to both
erals in Paris, and by those who had ladies and gentlemen from beyond the
been most bitter in their attacks upon seas, who were anxious to learn how
him for yielding even in appearance to Napoleon kept the wicked Parisians in
the seductions of the Empire. order. Once, in February of 1*70, I
Ardent and enthusiastic scholars and saw a veritable stampede, hundreds of
men of letters, lil<e M. Prdvost-Paradol men, women, and children rushing fran-
and like M. Flourens, an episode in — tically under the awning of a cafe, and
whose tragic history may be related crashing into the great plate-glass win-
here, — made the Imperial parly so un- dows, cutting and bruising themselves,
comfortable that it fell into a subtle in their wild fear of a cavalry charge,
distrust, and from the time of Victor which was conducted with more than
Noir's funeral down to the declaration usual vigor. People tolerated these
of war there was scarcely a day when things because the press could not report
troops were not to be seen in some quar- them ; or, if by chance if dared to print
ter of the capital, grimly awaiting the accounts of them, it could not comment
outbreak of a revolt. In January, Feb- upon them so as to awaken public opin-
ruary, and .March, of 1*7(1, after the ion, and to arouse the masses to a full
pulse of the great city was still, late at understanding of their degrading posi-
night, long lines of troops moved quietly tion.
through the main avenues, and took up In those days, too, it was interesting
their station in the popular quarters, to journey into Belleville and La Villette,
where the working-men were becoming taking good care to be furnished with
more and more ripe for insurrection. papers of identification, and to attend
When daylight came these long lines of the meetings held in garrets, in the lofts
men had disappeared. They came and of manufactories, or sometimes in the
went almost as silently as phantoms, cellars of cheap restaurants. The Em-
and the mass of the population knew pire objected in lulo to the public meet-
"
iug. It recognized in it the force which workmen were usually very illogical and
could overthrow the whole Imperial ridiculous in their vaporings. When the
structure. So when the people began to leading speakers of the evening became
clamor menacingly for the right to as- too violent, in the estimation of the
semble they were told that they could worthy commissioner of police, that
come together only in the most incon- functionary pounded on the table, and
venient and out-of-the-way places. On invited the orator to be more careful.
one occasion 1 attended a reunion, as it At such meetings, when the orator did
was called, in the garret of a huge ware- not profit by this invitation, and the
house at, La Villette. At the door of functionary was compelled to repeat it,
the building about fifty sergents de vilte, the proceedings could be summarily ter-
accompanied by their usual complement minated, and the police could expel the
of mouchards, or private detectives, audience from the building. Once, at a
were compactly massed together; and meeting in Belleville, Rochefort began a
no person entered without being very brief, but very carefully prepared, speech,
carefully inspected. Climbing some ending his first sentence with the word
dirty and rickety stairs I came at last "Republican." The
commissioner of
to the place of meeting, which was dimly police immediately admonished him; but
lightedby wax candles, in lanterns it happened that Rochefort had written
hung from great beams, or placed on out his speech, and, being in those days
rude wooden boxes. Here, seated on unused to extempore speaking, he was
benches, or squatted on the floor, or compelled to read on, and soon came to
hanging monkeys from the beams,
like the word "Republican" again. Where-
were some two thousand workmen and upon the admonition was repeated, and
street Arabs. In what might have been the commissioner said, " Why should
called the orchestra stalls, or the seats you compel me to break up your meet-
nearest the platform, there were a ing? " This made Rochefort angry, and
few intelligent, middle-aged artisans, also made him eloquent. He turned
accompanied by their wives and daugh- upon the official and indulged in a
ters. On the platform sat Rochefort, brief philippic upon the tyranny of the
with several resolute workmen, and one Empire, bringing in with much skill
or two of his fellow-deputies grouped the forbidden word in such a variety of

about him. At a little distance was forms and fashions that the police-officer
seated the police commissioner, the at once declared the meeting adjourned
representative of the central authority, sine die and left the hall.
and here and there, at the platform's If under these circumstances speakers
side, appeared the three-cornered hats or audience had ventured to remain, thus
of the police. Outside could be heard _
defying the central authority, they would
the murmur of angry voices and the fa- all have been subjected to criminal prose-
miliar admonition of the Imperial police: cution,and a goodly number of them
" Circulez, Messieurs, circidez, s'il vous would have been imprisoned.
!
plait The Empire feared for its safety even
The speeches were bold enough, and when crowds were brought together on
speakers like Rochefort and the other such occasions as the execution of
deputies were direct and telling in their Troppmann. Those who went up to
attacks upon the government. But the the gloomy square in front of the prison
IliU EUROPE IN STURM AND CALM.
of L:i Boquette, oil that damp winter My companion had been better served
night in 1870 when the celebrated than he supposed. He had. as we after-
criminal lost his bead, will never forget wards learned, been given a document
the elaborate precautions which the which entitled him to special favor from
authorities had taken for the suppres- the mysterious and disguised agents of
sion of any riot that might occur. The the Empire, who were always moving to
sinister Troppmann w.ill be remembered and fro iu crowds. lie handed the little
as the man who slew a woman and her paper to the first uniformed policeman
live children in a field in the neighbor- whom we encountered. This personage
hood of Paris, and who had the pro- looked at it and was puzzled but it was ;
digious courage to bury them carefully instantly taken out of his hand in
in that Held, and then to plan and peremptory fashion by a red-nosed party,
carry very far towards complete suc- in a faded blue blouse and a dilapidated
cess a. scheme for escaping from the silk hat. Much to our astonishment
country to the United States. This this man, whom we expected to see
live-fold assassination had so horrified taken into custody by the policeman,
the people of Paris that they cried out read the card, said, in a low voice.
universally for the public execution of " Movton" returned us the " safe-
this malefactor, and itwould have been conduct," and, with a little friendly ad-
more dangerous to have refused them vice as to watching our pockets, pushed
the satisfaction of waiting in rows, from us on towards the inner circle. We had
midnight till dawn, around the scaffold not gone twenty steps further before
of expiation, than to run the risk of dis- another seedy-looking man jostled
persing them in case they started in against us, repeated the word " Mouton,"
procession for the Tuileries after the and also the wholesome advice as to
execution. pockets. He went with us a few steps,
So persistent were the rumors that the when a consumptive individual, in white
insurrection would break out that night cotton blouse and trousers, took up the
that, in company with four or five other magic word, which he seemed bound to
Americans, I went up to the prison of repeat when he saw the card, still held by
La Roquette, arriving there just as the my friend where it could be seen and we ;
clocks were striking midnight. One of began to understand that w e were being
7
the gentlemen in the party had procured passed from agent to agent, each new
from a functionary, with whom he was helper being the obedient slave of our
acquainted, a card, which would, he was talisman. But candor compels me to
assured, admit himself and friends inside state, that just as we were about to get
the hollow square formed by the cavalry into the square there was a great tumult
and the infantry, which kept the howling in the outer lines of the mob, the cavalry
and surging mob, constantly increasing turned about and prepared for a charge,
in numbers, at a reasonable distance and our consumptive friend iu white
from the scaffold. advised us to beat a retreat, and to take
We had no sooner reached the outer refuge in the upper story of some wine-
line of this strange collection of hu- shop.
manity than we had a singular and We took his advice, and soon found
striking illustration of the wonderful ourselves the occupants of a little room,
organization of the French secret police. from which, two or three hours later, as
POLICE BREAKING UP A REPUBLICAN MEETING.
the dull gray i>f morning slowly cume, dreds of the waiting men looked like
we could discern the sinister form of the criminals of the worst sort.The women
guillotine and the upturned, livid, dis- were loud-mouthed, and many of them
torted, ugly faces of the thousands of indecent in their language and when a
:
men and women who longed to see new detachment of troops arrived it was
Troppmann die. In truth it was a hailed with threats and shouts of deri-
dreadful and repulsive spectacle, Hun- sion.
Hi: EUROPE IX STORM AXD CALM.
It was then the tradition that execu- when he was placed on the plank he
"
tions should take place in France just at tried to bite. Then it was soon over ;
the dawn, as if society were ashamed of and the robust man drew a cigarette
the vengeance which it took, and pre- from his pocket, lighted it daintily with
ferred to have it before the respectable a wax match, and turned his back upon us.
world were fairly awake and at its daily '• Von have been," said our late ac-
tasks and duties. The dawn was faint, quaintance, turning upon us with a sin-
and from our point, of vantage we could ister smile, '• lucky or unlucky, as von
Imt dimlv discern the wretched murderer choose to consider it
" and, pointing to
;
as he was brought out from the great the large man, added, "you have just
central door of the prison, with the priesl been face to face with the executioner."
holding the Crucifix at his side, and with No riot came that night ; the stones of
an attendant train of physicians, drama- La Roquette were stained with none but
tists, and journalists, who wished to and for some time after-
criminal's blood,
make a " study from nature," in the wards the atmosphereof Paris was peace-
rear. The assassin, as he set his foot ful ; but when the obedient Corps Ligis-
on the last step of the scaffold, was met hiiif had sanctioned the prosecution of
and taken possession of by the execu- Rochefort, because of his revolutionary
tioner and his aids, and of the rest we language, the agitation was extreme,
could see nothing save a shadowy and Flourens, whom I have mentioned,
struggle, which seemed to last for a was the leader in a riot of very respecta-
horrible time, but which really was over ble proportions. Rochefort was arrested
in half a minute. We heard the dull one February evening, just as lie was
thud of the knife. As it descended a entering a hall where several thousands
yell of mingled triumph and execration of people were waiting to hear him
went up from the crowd. The little speak, and he was carried off to St.
troops of cavalry began to disperse the Pelagic, the prison in which political of-
masses of pale and half-famished spec- fenders were locked up, so quietly that
tators. A black wagon, escorted by there was no attempt at rescue made.
gendarmes, was driven rapidly up to the But when the audience learned that he
rear of the scaffold. A rough wooden had been taken prisoner the excitement
box was placed in it, and then the knew no hounds.
wagon and its escort sd out at full trot Gustave Flourens, who had been one
for the " cemetery of the condemned." of the most daring leaders in the mani-
We remained in our perch in the wine- festation on the day of Victor Xoir's
shop until most of the people had left funeral, may fairly be said to have in-
the square, and then we went down to augurated the attack on the Empire for, ;
view the scaffold, in front of which we no sooner had a workman cried out,
found our consumptive friend, in the ' Rochefort is arrested they are going ;
white garments, engaged in conversation to assassinate him !

" than he leaped Up
with an odd-looking Herculean man. from his chair on to the platform, and
di'essed in black clothes, with a shiny drew a revolver, pointed it at the police
Mack hat surmounting his rugged head. commissioner's head, and said. " You
••
l)i«l he carry himself well?" said the are my prisoner. Come with me ; we will
police-officer to this gigantic personage. do von no harm. I proclaim the insur-

"At first," was the answer; "but rection." Two or three shots were fired
EUROPE I.V STORM AND CALM. 1(53
in the and Flourens, followed by

air, Flourens was one of those brave and
three or hundred shouting and
lour hardy spirits, who. like Prevost-Para-
frenzied workmen, went down into the dol, suit the action to the word. He was
street, forcing the unlucky police commis- the son of the distinguished professor of
sioner ahead of him by occasional sugges- natural history at the College de France,
tive hints with the barrel of his revolver. and until lie was thirty devoted himself
The people at once began to build with the greatest enthusiasm to the
barricades, and to prepare for a gen- studies in which his father hail won an
eral resistance on the great boulevards European reputation. When the father
which radiate from the Belleville quar- dieil he designated the son as his suc-
ter. Flourens gave his prisoner the cessor, and appealed to the Imperial
'• key of the fields," as the French minister to confirm his choice but the
saj', ;
and told him to go and sin no more. younger Flourens had, like other young
DISPERSING A PARISIAN UIOT.
Then he began to search the quarter for men of Liberal and Republican sympa-
anus ; but before he succeeded in organ- thies, been placed on the black-list of
izing a well-equipped force the police the Em] lire, and he waited in vain for
came in crowds, followed by a. few de- the succession to his father's post. He
tachments of infantry. The overturned even wrote directly to the Emperor, say-
omnibuses, half-smashed cabs, and piles ing that he felt it a sacred duty to carry
of paving-stones, were of little avail, out the work which had fallen from his
and the effort of Flourens turned out father's hands; but Napoleon said he
an inglorious failure. Flourens himself could not interfere in the appointments
took refuge in the house of a friend, of his ministers. Young Flourens then
where he was concealed forty days, after deliberately gave up his scientific career,
which he escaped to England, which and went heart and soul into the Liberal
country refused to give him up when he cause. He had to go to Belgium even
was asked for as culpable of participa- to publish his scientific works, as they
tion in the conspiracy for assassinating were too deeply tinged with Liberalism to
the Emperor. be acceptable to the Empire. Then he
—
If. EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
made a long tour in the Orient, took part and the Republic. He was not liberated
in (he Cretan insurrection in 1866, had or freed from the accusation of being a
many a wild adventure in Greece and Prussian spy until after the Empire had
Crete, gol into a prison in Italy for a been destroyed and the government of
political escapade, and finally came back National Defence established.
to Paris, to plunge into radical journal- Flourens died, as he had lived, a pas-
ism, and at last to lead the insurrection sionate, but ill-advised and reckless,
which was so quickly suppressed, apostle of liberty. He was one of the
After Flourens had left his English earliest promoters of the Commune, and
refuge he was once more in danger. In was in the riot when Paris narrowly
Athens he was tracked by the Imperial escaped the declaration of the Com-
police, and the French Embassy de- munist insurrection, on the 31st of Oc-
manded his The govern-
extradition. tober, 1870. He perished, as will be
ment was about to accord it when the seen farther on, in one of the wild skir-
people of Athens rose and insisted that mishes around Paris, in the first days of
he should not be given up. He came the great struggle between Paris and
back to Paris during the September revo- Versailles, in 1871.
lution, at a time when his countrymen His end was as tragic, but not as
were unduly sensitive on the subject of pitiful, as that of l'revost-Paradol. He
foreign spies, and suddenly found him- died for his opinions ; not because
self the inmate of a Republican prison, he had momentarily wavered in his
he who had done so much for Republicans opinions.
CHAPTER SEVENTEEN.
The Intrigue of Marshal Prim and Bismarck. —

The Events which Led to the Declaration of War. The —
Protestof M. Thiers. —
Personal Reminiscences of the Excitement in Paris. Anecdotes of the Un- —
readiness of the Second Empire. —
Genera] Ducrot and His Troubles in Strasbourg. The Corruption —
and Incapacity of the French Quartermaster's Department. No Rations. —
No Ammunition. —
the cold wind blowing from he had resumed

ITthewasPyrenees which finally upset the
that
with Prussia in
his negotiations
pursuit of his policy of
card-house of the Empire. compensation and greed ; and at the very
The French say that the candidateship moment when both countries were trem-
of the Prince Leopold von Hohenzollern, bling on the verge of hostilities the
a relative of the King of Prussia, and draft of a secret treaty between France
nothing more than a major in the first and Prussia was undergoing revision.
regiment of King William's Foot-Guards, By this treaty it seems to have been
for the unoccupied throne of Spain, was stipulated that Napoleon III. should
the result of an intrigue arranged by recognize and allow all the Prussian
Marshal Prim, who had been desperately acquisitions which were the outcome of
angered against Napoleon III., because the war with Austria that the King of
;
that sovereign had upset his ambitious Prussia, on his part, should assist France
projects about Mexico and by Bis- ; to acquire Luxembourg, the Luxem- —
marck, " who thus found the means of bourg which Bismarck had so cleverly
isolating France and surrounding her saved from the hands of the French only
with enemies, or at least discovered the two or three years before that, in case ;
pretext tor a war the almost certain Napoleon III. should get or conquer
result of which his genius enabled him to Belgium, the King of Prussia should
foresee." give armed assistance to France against
This is not a history, and I do not any other power that might declare war
propose to dwell upon the recital, already against her in such a case ; and, finally,
published hundreds of times, of the long that the two powers should conclude an
series of negotiations which led the offensive and defensive alliance.
French up to the fatal declaration of The effect of the publication of this
war. The military party in France document by M. Benedetti. the unlucky
came to the front at once, and in thun- ambassador who was the representative
derous tones demanded that the Empire of France in Prussia in July, 1870, was
should assert and should put
its dignity, rather amusing. Although your Euro-
aside the scheme which had
political pean diplomat neither disdains nor dreads
been undertaken without the advice and a white lie, there was no one bold enough
consent of France. It is possible that to deny outright the authenticity of the
Napoleon III. would have been glad to project of treaty ; and the partisans of
hold in cheek the passions which his the Empire, when called upon to explain,
previous vacillating policy had done so said that M. Benedetti had drawn up
much to unchain ; for it would appear the paper, but had done so at the die-
hit; EUROPE LV STORM AND CALM.
tation of Count von Bismarck. That succeeded in putting Marshal Prim,

personage contented himself with re- who was not a man of mighty mould,
marking that sonic sort of an agreement back in his place, and in securing from
had to be made with France, ns she the Spanish and German governments
incessantly asked for compensation for the withdrawal of a project to which
not interfering to prevent the plans of France, as a great power, did not. feel
Prussia from being realized. like giving her consent. But from the
Here we have as good proof as we moment of the proposition of the can-
need that we are not falsely accusing didateship the Imperial party seems
the Emperor of the French of following to have thrown all prudence to the
the policy of compensation, and of hav- winds, and to have acted in the most
ing been cleverly duped by the people reckless fashion. The simile of the red
with whom he wished to make a profit- cloak and the bull is eminently proper
able compromise. Both Bismarck and here.
Benedetti said, and have always main- All the supporters of the Empire
tained, that neither Napoleon nor King seemed, in the eves of calm and
William were willing to sanction the impartial observers, to be given over
treaty which their subordinates had to For those who knew the
madness.
drafted; but the fact that the draft gigantic military preparations in which
was made by two such responsible Prussia had been engaged for so many
parties as the German Chancellor and years, the declaration of Emile Ollivier,
the French Envoy is enough to show in the tribune of the <'<ir/ix L&gislatif,
that there was Royal and Imperial in- that he and his colleagues accepted the
tention at some time or other to put it great responsibility of a German war
into force. ••with light hearts," caused a shudder
It was not until the end of the month • if disgust. There was but one thing
of June, 1870, that the negotiations I., suppose in extenuation of the con-
relative to the candidateship of Prince duct of these men who took into their
Leopold to the Spanish throne were hands the lives and fortunes of a great
concluded 1 > v the Spanish government, nation, and that was that they thor-
Count von Bismarck, the King of oughly believed in the duration of the
Prussia, and Prince Leopold himself. old anil traditional military strength
Marshal Prim, in conversation with of France; that, although they were
the French ambassador at Madrid, sensible of the corruption and rust
took care to place the affair in the which had clone such deadly work
most disadvantageous light for France, under the Empire, they felt that the
and maliciously added that the scheme nation arms would be victorious over
in
must he carried through, because Spain anv opponents, however formidable.

could nowhere else find such an accept- Put. even if they believed this, they
able candidate. A German on the were culpable, lor they could only have
throne of Spain! Tin' very idea was had such robust confidence in their
distasteful to all parties in Fiance, but country because they had persistently
its effect upon the Imperialists was neglected the study of the progress of
like that of a red cloak before the eyes Europe in their generation. Shut into
of a bull. Cautious and experienced the petty circle of the Second Empire,
diplomats, like M. Thiers, would have which made the collection of news and
its free publication almost a criminal any enthusiasm throughout the country
offence, these responsible ministers, in favor of a German war the nation, ;
these influential statesmen, had vague bowed under the Imperial yoke, blindly
notions of the outside world. The accepted the issue of the sword because
Duke de Gramont, in the numerous the Empire dictated that it should do so.
speeches which he made previous to The prefects of the various departments
the declaration of war, adopted the had been consulted, and their answers,
tone of one conscious of an overpower- favorable to a conflict, were published.
ing force behind him. The Prussians But they did not reflect public opinion,
themselves were staggered by this tre- and many of the officials timidly ex-
mendous assumption of importance. pressed their belief that the " agricultu-
A highly cultivated and sincere French ral populations were in favor of peace."
official, who was in Germany at the Garnier-Pages, who represented the sen-
outbreak of the war, has left on record timent of the Republican Opposition
his impression of the period of doubt in the Corps Ltgislatif, once cried out
through which Germany passed when when the subject of war was under dis-
the nation saw that war with France cussion : It is these dynastic questions
was inevitable. Was it possible that which are always troubling the peace of
they had made a mistake, and that Europe. As for the nations, they only
the old triumphant French spirit would ask to be let alone, that they may
prove as irresistible as of old? respect, aid, and love each other." But
M. Jules Simon, and many others of the Duke de Gramont, with his diplomatic
equal importance and influence in the twaddle and his long sentences about the
ranks of the moderate Republicans, say dignity of France and her duty to her
that General Prim imagined the Candi- sister nation, overwhelmed the Republi-
da eship of Prince Leopold von Hohen-

I can protests against the struggle which
zollern, because Napoleon III. had used was to lie productive of such infinite
such vigorous efforts to prevent the elec- suffering.
tion of the Due de Montpensier to the There was one voice, however, that no
throne of Spain. " Of course," says M. platitudes of ministers and no threats of
Simon, " the Emperor of the French was Imperial disfavor could drown, and that
bound by his position to exclude a Bour- was the piping voice of the valiant M.
bon from the Spanish throne but by his ; Thiers, so soon to lie called to the helm of
opposition he occasioned the Ilohenzol- state, and so earnestly patriotic that he
lern intrigue, and thus was the cause of dared to speak out all that was in his
all our misfortunes." heart. On the afternoon of a stormy de-
Put the grave and great accusation bate, when all the Imperial clique was wild
against the Second Empire is that it for immediate war, after he had done
made war in petulance and recklessness justice with his keen satire to the auda-
when it might have preserved peace, ami cious declarations of Emile Ollivier and
that it declared war without being in any the Duke de Gramont and after he had :
maimer prepared to carry on a campaign. spoken for a long time in the midst of
The man who had said at Bordeaux insults and outcries from those who
that the Empire meant peace deliberately dreaded lest he might interrupt the
cast the nation into a conflict with a march of events, he concluded his speech
powerful enemy. There was not even by saying that he was ready to vote with
the government all necessary means categorically refused to do anything of

whenever war should definitely be de- the kind, considering that he had fully
flared, but he must first know the de- accomplished his duty. In the after-
spatches upon which the declaration of noon M. Benedetti returned and de-
war was to be founded. " The Cham- manded a new audience, but this time
ber," he said, "may do as it likes. I King "William announced that he should
can foresee what it is likely to do: but, refuse to receive him "if it were t»
as for myself, I must decline to partici- resume the subject broached in the
pate in the declaration of a war which morning;" but he sent his aide-de-camp
is so little justified." to say that he should be happy to see
The mob, which had a short lime M. Benedetti if he desired to make him
before been ready to inarch against the a personal visit.
Second Empire, now joined forces with M. Emile Ollivier, in the session of
it, and on the night of (he 15th of June, the ('or/is Ldgislatif at which war was
when the speech which contained the declared, made a great deal out of this
virtual declaration of war was knowu, incident, in insisting thai the German
crowds of half-drunken men appeared press had taken it up, and placed France
before the house of M. Thiers, and in- and her diplomatic dignity in the most
dulged in a But
hostile manifestation. humiliating light ; in short, that all
lie was not without his supporters, ami Europe was laughing at tliem, and that
as he returned that evening from the such an affront could not be tolerated.
Corps Legislatif he was cheered all the Emile Ollivier was certainly justified
way from tin Place de la Concorde to the
1
in feeling offended at the tone of the
Rue Royale, because lie had dared to tell German and continental press generally
the truth to the Empire, and to say that in its comments upon the Benedetti
the dignity of the nation could be main- incident,
taiued without plunging into war. But the sneers and the laughter were
M. Thiers was right in saying that not for fiance they were for the band
;
the declaration of hostilities was scarcely of adventurers who had taken posses-
justifiable, for, although the French am- sion a score of years before, and who
bassador had secured a complete diplo- were now reaping the fruits of their
matic victory over the Spanish and folly and presumption.
Prussian intriguers, the Imperial Minis- So from the little cloud, no bigger
try was not satisfied, and insisted that than :i man's hand, which arose out of
M. Benedetti should carry his demands General Prim's back parlor, came the
still further, and right up to the danger wind and storm which made Europe
point. On the 13th of July M. Bene- tremble to its base. The appearance of
detti therefore presented himself at Paris during the days between the 15th
King William's residence at Ems, where of July and the 19th, on which date
the old monarch was taking his usual the declaration of war. couched in i\\v.
midsummer repose, and begged the most polished diplomatic language, was
king to authorize him to convince the handed to Prussia, was extremely curious.
French government that, in case the The usual phenomena attendant upon the
Hohenzollern project should be brought sudden awakening of a nation to the
up again, he would interpose his royal knowledge that it must instantly prepare
authority to quash it. The old king for defence and offence were visible in
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. W.)
camp, in court, and on the street. The sians were mere food for French bayo-
Emperor shut himself up mornings in nets. It was an intoxicating moment.
the Palace of Saint-Cloud, and was re- The masses of the Parisians-fancied that
ported to lie organizing the forthcoming the Empire must have at its disposition
campaign with great skill and energy. vast military resources; and they slept
That which first impressed me, as a as comfortably after as before the decla-
spectator, was the paucity in number ration of war.
of the troops which came and went, and The Internationale showed its ugly head
the confusion apparent in all the branches in the midst of the tumult. No doubt
of the administration. A visit to the there was in many breasts the hope that
Ministry of War was like a promenade the Commune might thin lie declared,
into Bedlam. Here was no silenl disci- and the great municipal insurrection
pline. The streets of the capitol at might lie successfully launched on the
night were paraded by long processions stormy waves of popular excitement.
of workmen, in white and blue blouses, In the theatres the actors were called
and by the numerous collection of upon to recite patriotic poems; and at
vagabonds who always come to the sur- the opera M. Faure was obliged to sing
face in abnormal times; all this riff- Alfred de Musset's biting and satiric
raff singing patriotic songs in the verses against the Prussians. Here
loudest voices, brawling and manifesting and there the Marseillaise, so long for-
under the balconies of unpopular depu- gotten, burst out; and the Imperial
ties, threatening the Republican Opposi- Police were frightened at the energy with
tion with dire consequences, because it which was sung. They dreaded the
it
had dared to hesitate on the threshold hymn Rouget de I'Isle, because,

of
of war. though it meant a menace to the Teutonic
The Imperial Guard went out at night enemy, there was in it also a threat lor
under the glare of torch and gas-light, tyrants at home. In the Imperial Senate
and to the music of splendid bands, and the declaration of war had been saluted
this handsomely equipped corps made a with cheers, although the Senators knew
vast impression on the populace. "To that the Empire had no ally, and could
Berlin ! To Berlin !
" was shouted on all count on none at the outbreak of hos-
sides. Enthusiastic citizens seated under tilities.
the cafeawnings embraced each other, The utter lack of preparation for war
and promised themselves the pleasure on the part of the Second Empire has
of visiting the great Prussian capital now become historical but few writers
;
when the French armies should be there. who have traced the course of the war
Little boys shouted insults for the enemy of 1870-1871 have given half the facts
beyond the frontier. Innocent strangers concerning it. On the 20th of July, at
were hustled and accused of being Ger- ten minutes to ten in the morning, and
mans ; a*d, when they denied the harsh less than twenty-four hours after the
impeachment, were insulted because they presentation of the official note declaring
were not Germans. Popular passion was war by the representative of France at
at high-water mark ; the Emperor was a Berlin, the Quartermaster General at
greatman he had done no wrong. lie
; Metz telegraphed to the Minister of War
would lead his armies to glory. The in Paris: "There is in Metz neither
Republicans were milksops, and the Prus- sugar, nor coffee, nor rice, nor brandy,
nor salt; little pork, and small biscuit, and insufficient. In the Strasbourg
Send in haste a million rations byway arsenal there were two thousand cannon,
of Thionville."On the 21st of July the but only four hundred or five hundred
General commanding the Second Corps which were fit to serve. There were can-
telegraphed to Paris: "The D4p6t non-shot or, rather, great stone bullets,
is sending enormous packages of maps, which dated from the time of Louis
which are useless for the moment. XIV. There were guns, but half of
We have not a single map of the French them were Hint locks. As to the camp
frontier, and this is the one. which we equipage, everything was in the utmostdis-
speeiallv need." On the 21st of July order. Even the most necessary articles
General Michel telegraphed from Bel fort were lacking, such as the halters for
to the Minister of War in l'aris : "Just picketing horses. An army corps of
arrived at Belfort ; cannot find my thirty thousand men needed one hundred
brigade; cannot find a Division Gen- and forty-four wagons in its train.
eral ; what must I do? I do not know Strasbourg could furnish but eighteen,
where my regiments are." On the Even in 1869 the population of Stras-
24th of July the General commanding bourg, which had heard of the investiga-
te Fourth Corps telegraphed " Fourth : lions of General Ducrot, was alarmed at
Corps has neither canteens, nor ambu- the poorness of its defence and the sub- ;
lances, not baggage-wagons Toul, : ject was eagerly discussed. The quar-
garrison town, is completely bare of ter-inaster twice wrote to the Minister
everything." On the same day the of War. at the request of the Stras-
Quartermaster of the Third Corps tele- bourg population, and indicated that
graphed: "Our corps leaves Met/, to- something must be done to strengthen
morrow. I have neither hospital tenders, the town, which was in such an exposed
nor workmen, nor ambulances, caissons, situation. In the ambulance department

nor tield ovens, nor scales for weighing there was not one-tenth of the material
the forage. 1 beg Your Excellency to which would be necessary in war time,
take me out of the scrape into which I The negligence so manifest at Stras-
seem to have got." bourg was visible everywhere after the
On the 25th the sub-quartermaster outbreak of the war. M. de Seganville,
telegraphed from Mezieres: •There is quartermaster of Marshal MacMahon's
neither biscuit nor pork in the fortresses army corps, was literally in despair
of Mezieres or Sedan." On the 27th because of the condition in which the
the Major-General telegraphed to the administration left him. " have noth- I
Minister of War from Met/. "The de- : ing," he said, "for my forage depart-
taehments joining the army here con- incut or for my hospitals."
tinue to arrive without cartridges and Marshal Kiel wasdeeply humiliated by
without camp materials!" the deplorable condition of the French
GeneralDucrot was Division Com- army, and especially of its quarter-
mander at Strasbourg, both before ami master's department. Marshal Niel was
after Sadowa. lie made continual reports one of the few French soldiers who had
to the Minister of War concerning the un- taken into account the change that two
satisfactory condition of the arsenal successive wars had brought about in
under his c mand. The ambulance Germany, and the dread silent organ-
material, as at Met/., was incomplete ization that that country had been
;
undergoing for fifty years. The reforms councillors, were changed three times,
which he began in France were wise after most herculean labors had
the
and, had they been fulfilled, would have been performed on each plan, in order
placed the country upon au excellent de- that the Empress's pet project of hav-
fensive footing. In 1868 the new military ing General Frossard in a prominent
law which had been prepared by him was post could be carried out. Marshal
voted, and its execution was begun. Le Bceuf continued to tell the country
By the terms of that law the armed force that it was ready for war, that its sol-
of France was composed of the active, diers did not lack a gaiter-button or a
the reserve, the Mobile National Guard, strap. But the solemn truth became
and the navy. The reserve had for its daily more and more evident. The Em-
mission the reinforcement of the active pire could not put in line an effective force
army, the occupation of fortresses, and equal to more than a third of the German
furnishing garrison troops; while the numbers. Out of four hundred and sev-
National Guard Mobile, as it came to be enteen thousand soldiers of the Guard
called during the war, up was to fill Mobile only one hundred thousand were
gaps in garrisons on the national soil, armed and organized. Half of the guns
and to form a substantial reserve. The in the soldiers' hands were muzzle-load-
principle of obligatory service, just now ing. Although the Field Artillery had the
so firmly established under the Republic, material necessary for live hundred lot-
was considerably extended by this law. teries, there were men and horses for
Substitutes, however, were still allowed : "lily one hundred and fifty-four batter-
lint bounties were suppressed. The ies. At the end of .Inly there were but
duration of service in the active army six hundred and twenty-four cannon, in-
was brought up to nine years five under ; cluding the famous mitrailleuses, ready to
the flag, and four in the reserve. The enter into the campaign. Of the three
men of this latter category were to be hundred and
million three fifty thousand
called up only in case of war, and by guns which were on the artillery regis-
Imperial decree. The old division of ters a great number were, on the open-
the annual contingent into a first and ing of hostilities, undergoing repairs.
second portion was preserved. Under The arming and assembling of the Mo-
Marshal Niel's reform law the French biles in the provinces was done in the
army would, with the calling up of the most desultory and incomplete fashion.
contingent of 1875, have a war effective A French writer has drawn a curious
of eight hundred thousand men and in ; picture of the departure of the 10th
the same period the National Guard Regiment of Cher, which left Bourges
Mobile would have reached the figure of on the 22d of September to go up to
fivehundred thousand men. But death Orleans, and enter immediately into a
came to take Marshal Niel in the midst campaign against the magnificently
of his preparations for reorganization ; equipped regiments of Germans. " Not
and the country was left without his only," he says, "was this regiment
advice and counsel in the terrible badly equipped, but most of the soldiers.
moments of 1870. taken suddenly from the fields and away
It is said that the plans of the pro- from their farms, were entirely unarmed.
jected campaign in Prussia, which were Some few of them had guns, which had
being elaborated by the Emperor and his been brought in great haste from estab-
)
EUROPE I.Y STORM AND CALM.
lishments at which they were undergoing batteries at a certain point on the fron-
repairs." At the battle of St. Quen-
••
tier at the beginning of the campaign ;
tin," says another writer, • the battal- but there was only a single officer in the
ions of a legion of Mobiles were deci- whole neighborhood who Tcneio /mm tn
mated by shell and shot; but they did use litem.
not see a single enemy, the Prus- The catalogue of tin' shortcomings of
sians being carefully concealed on the the military department of the Empire is
surrounding woody heights, aud the so lone- that I may only touch upon it
French soldiers had, for their defence, here. After the first battles on the
guns carrying only two hundred yards." frontier had occasion to go from
I
General Ducrot arrived with his divis- Frankfort-on-the-Main to Strasbourg on

ion :it the outset of the campaign in a an excursion which 1 made in search of
village and found a captain of the chas- a military pass, — an indispensable docu-
seurs a pied representing the whole ment in those strange days of August,
quartermaster's department. This cap- 1870. My
companions in the compart-
tain was alone, without money, without ment of the railway carriage were two
employes, without carriages, without respectable gentlemen, who looked like
workmen, without a single kilogramme Germans; but I presently discovered

of bread or meat. The troops ate up that they were citizens of Strasbourg,
their reserve rations; then the general and I could not help overhearing their
sent for the single representative of the conversation. One of them was reciting
quartermaster. This personam' con- with great animation the cause which
tented himself with saying, in reply to led. in his opinion, to the French de-
Genera] Ducrot's remark that his sol- feat atWoerth,or Reichsehoffen, as the
diers had had nothing to eat, "Impos- French call it. He laid the whole fault
sible ! 1 have just been buying some on the quartermasters' departments.
things." General Ducrot, thoroughly "The officers," lie said, "act as if
angry, cried out, " My soldiers must they were at a picnic. They pitch
have something to eat. 1 don't care what their tents, and the soldiers spread their
vou were buying or going to buy; but tables with costly linen, with glass ware,
von must forthwith produce bread and and with innumerable bottles of wine.
meat." Two hours after the fright- In the morning the soldier finds that he
ened inteudant sent in thirty-six bakers. has no coffee to drink, and that his soup
These bakers managed to find some is not made. Where are our old generals
flour in the villages, and to get together who used to say: '
lie soldat ne peut
"
some bread. Then General Ducrot rien faire pas mange la soupe
s'?7 //'"
' '
hunted out some butchers in the regi- — (The soldier is good for nothing until
ments, got them to kill cattle taken at he has swallowed his soup.
random in the neighboring stables, and The quartermaster of the Sixth Corps
so managed to get food for his hungry is on record as having written: "The
men. There were plenty of regiments chief quartermaster has asked me for
which had no blankets; hundreds upon four hundred thousand rations of biscuit
hundreds of the men in the reserve had and for field provisions. I have not a
never taken a chassepot in their hands, any field pro-
single ration of biscuit nor
or ever seen one until they were called visions." The Emperor, as soon as he
under tire. There were two mitrailleuse got to the front, was much distressed
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 1 73
and, uo doubt, greatly alarmed at the the means of inviting few or many people
lack of food and anus. He wrote to the to dine, as he pleases.
Minister of War: "I sec that we lack " At the tabic of the Emperor will sit
bread and biscuit for the troops." But the aide-de-camp who is on duty and the
that was not all. They lacked caissons, first groom, if the Emperor orders it
canteens, means of transport, revolvers thus. The second table shall lie pre-
in the arsenals, cartridges for the mi- sided over by the adjutant-general ; and
trailleuses, surgeons for men and horses : there shall also sit MM. lis aides-de-
everything, in short. camp, the orderlies, the grooms, the
Meantime the magnificence of the Im- officers attached to the aides-de-camp,

perial householdwas by no means to be and. if necessary, the secretaries of the
neglected, even in the field. The fol- Cabinet.
lowing plan, drawn up at the palace of "The valets de chambre will bivouac
St. Cloud, the 3d of July, 1870, three or or camp in shelter tents, carried in the
four days before the departure of the wagons of His Majesty.
Emperor, by the Adjutant-General of the "The baggage of the Emperor shall
Palace, will give an idea of the manner be escorted by a brigadier and six gen-
in which Napoleon III. expected to erals of the squadron of the guard.
traverse Germany on his triumphal " There shall lie allowed, on entering
march :
— the campaign, to MM. les aides-de-camp,
designated to accompany the Emperor,
" Maison de l'Empereur.
20,000 francs, and to the orderlies,
" Service of the Grand Marshal.
15,0(10 francs. The first shall have four
" Notes on the Service of .l/.l/. les Aides-
saddle-horses and the latter three.
;
de-camp and Orderlies near the These gentlemen can each take with
Emperor in tin- Field.
them a valet de chambre."
" The aides-de-camp and orderlies will Then follows an interminable list of
serve in alternate order, beginning by the directions as to the Imperial kitcheu,
priority of age and rank. the wardrobe, the bedding, etc., all con-
" There must be always two tables, trasting rather singularly with the sim-
whether at a bivouac or during long plicity which Napoleon I. often affected
stays, so that the Emperor may have when he was on active service.
CHAPTER EIGHTEEN.
Departure of the Emperor for the War. —

Volcanic Throes Renewed.— Movements of the Internationale
— The German Workingmen's Address. —Tin- Imperial Court at Ulois. Foreshadowing of the Com- —
mune. — jM. Rothan's Revelations. —Bismarck and His Views of the War. Alarm of the German —
People. — Fears of a French Invasion.— Emile Account of the Manner in which Hostilities
< lllivier's
ivere Decided upon. — M. Rothau and the Duke de Gramont. —The French Minister of War is Sur-
prised. — Marshal Le Boeuf's Deceptions.
offence under the Empire, were tried and

ALTH( >U( ! 1 1 the Emperor went away
to thewar with the air of one who sentenced to various terms of imprison-
was about to conquer his foes without ment. The places of those who went
difficulty, his heart, was rilled with many to till the prisons were rapidly taken by
misgivings, for he knew that he left a Others who had sworn eternal hostility to
powerful enemy behind him. The vol- the Empire,and not only to it. but to the
canic throes wen' once more clearly per- whole organization of existing society.
ceptible throughout the whole of France. It now appeared as if the Empire must
The nation, which professed to believe take upon its shoulders the burden of a
itself upon the eve of a vast and unparal- great invasion, for no Frenchman fancied
leled military triumph, was torn by infor tin instant that a war would be any-
ternal dissension, and was on the very thing but tin invasion of places beyond
verge of civil war. The repeated mani- the Rhine. Even the new apostles of
festations against the Empire, in Febru- the Internationale boldly showed them-
ary, in March, and in May, 1870, had selves, and grouped about them :dl the
given the mysterious and audacious In- discontented and dangerous in the ranks
ternational Society of Working-men fresh of the Radical Republicans. The Inter-
courage. This new society knew that it nationale rather inconsistently declared
against the war, which it was not sorry
had only to head to be struck
show its
down relentlessly by the Empire, which, to see begun, tis it hoped that by embar-
while it professed most liberal sentiments rassing the Empire it might enable the
with regard to the working-men, did noth- workmen to carry out their purpose of
ing to ameliorate their spiritual condition. complete emancipation. An address was

The strikes at the great metallic establish- issued by group of French workmen,
a
ment of Creuzot, which were under the disclaiming till national hatred and re-
of the necessity for a
immediate direction of M. Schneider, one pelling the ideti
of the most important members of the hostile invasion of a neighboring country.
Imperialist party had been put

in Paris, To this little group of toilers came,
down, and had awakened discontent and as powerful aid, men of Inch social
open aggression among the working-men standing and intelligence, like M. A.ge-
in such great industrial centres as Rou-
nor de Gasparin and Edgar Quinet.
and Amiens. In dune of 1870 These eminent thinkers held a meet-
baix
members of the association, ing, tit Belleville, to protest against the
thirty-eight
accused of being members of a secret declaration of war; and as members
society, which was an unpardonable of the International League of Peace
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. V
might Lave had some influence under a roll of drums nor the thunder of camion,
free gi ivernment. But freedom of speech nor victory, nor defeat, shall turn us
within the boundary of France was not from our work for the union of the Pro-
yet won ; and the furious Imperialist war letariat of all countries. We also, like
party stigmatized as Prussians all those yourselves, no longer need any frontiers,
who ventured to hint that there was because we are on both sides of the
really no adequate provocation to war. Rhine. In old Europe, as in young
To the address of the French work- America, we have our brethren, with
men and to the other humanitarian utter- whom we are ready to go to the death
ances from France there was strong and :i for the aim of our efforts, — the Social
manly response from beyond the Rhine. Republic. Long live peace, labor, and
"
The International Association of Work- liberty!
ing-men in Berlin signed a letter, which It is not difficult to discern in the
isworthy of being copied here, as tending frank and courageous utterance of this
to show how easily European wars could proclamation a distinct advance in the
be prevented if it were not for the excess character of the International Society of
of power placed in the hands of the chiefs yVorking-men from the time when, in
of the royal dynasties :
— it published the twaddle fromwhieh
lsr>7,
"To the Working-men of France: I have given extracts in a preceding

We also wish peace, labor, and liberty. chapter. But the golden dream of the
This is why we associate ourselves enthusiastic laborers on both sides of the
heartily to your protest. Inspired with Rhine was not destined to be fulfilled.
ardent enthusiasm against all obstacles The Proletariat was fated to indulge in
placed in the way of our peaceful devel- the wildest and vilest excesses in France,
opment, and especially against the sa\ age and to be led away info the most danger-
practice of war. animated only by frater- ous follies of socialism; while the Ger-
nal sentiments, we join hands with you. mans were constrained, by the exigencies
and we swear to you. like men of honor, of national unity and the iron military
who do not know how to lie. that we find discipline ami despotism which hail been
in our hearts not the least national hatred ; inaugurated in their country, to put off
that we are submitting merely to force, their part of the great International Revo-
and constrained and compelled
enter lution and to fight their brethren with
into the bauds of soldiers which are all the energy that they possessed. That
about to spread misery and ruin through there were scores of thousands of men
the peaceful fields of our countries. in the German army who abominated
"We also, like yourselves, are men of the war into which they were thrust, and
combat and action; but we wish to com- who were as ripe for a socialist revo-
bat by the pacific use of all our forces lution as were the wildest members of
for the good of our kindled, for the the Paris Commune, there can be no pos-
benefit of humanity. We wish to com- sible doubt. I myself heard a Prussian
bat for liberty, equality, and fraternity ;

soldier say, at Ecouen, on the day after
to combat against the despotism of the capitulation of Paris, and alluding to
tyrants, who oppress sacred liberty, the lengthv campaign which now seemed
against falsehood and perfidy, from what- drawing to a close: "I wish that the
ever quarter they may come. We accursed swindle were over, and that I
solemnly promise you that neither the had never been drawn into it."
On the day, too, before the declara- to answer the remarks addressed him
tion of war was officially notified to by the presiding judge, and said: " I
Prussia by the confldeut and jubilant simply ask you to give the order to the
war party in France, a little procession gendarmes to take me hack to my
of prisoners was brought up to the bar prison." This unwonted insolence so
of the High Court of Justice, convened startled the magistrate that he told the
at Blois, for the express purpose of prisoner to si( down and stop talk-
stamping out with one vigorous move- ing; whereupon Ferre said: " You have
ment the leaders of the working-men's the force now. That is all right. Use
opposition to the Empire. The indict- it. But when we get it look out for
ment against the majority of these men yourselves. 1 am a Republican. " The
was for participating in a conspiracy, sinister words of Ferre were well re-
having for its end an attempt against the membered during the anguish of the
safety of the .State and against the life Commune, for he was one of its pro-
of the Emperor. Among the members moters and the prominent member of its
of the counsel for the defence were executive force. After hearing this last
such distinguished Republicans as Em- remark the judge ordered Ferre to
manuel Arago and Floquet. One of stand up and to be interrogated once

the persons accused was Megy, who had v ; but the prisoner refused. "Then
been the first Frenchman in the later we shall Compel you." said the judge.
days of the Empire to protest against ••
If I come here again," answered Ferre,
the violation of his domicile by police ••

some one will have to carry me."
agents, who could briny; against, him no Despite this violent attitude Ferre was
accusation except that he was suspected acquitted of conspiracy, of which for
of conspiracy. Megy had shot and that matter he was innocent enough.
killed a police ngentwho was forcing his Megy and many others were sentenced
way into his room, and desired to excul- totwenty years of hard labor each and ;
pate himself on the theory that individual men whose only offence had been an
liberty must he respected, and that the incautious participation in a secret so-
members of the dominant party must ciety were sentenced to three, five, ten,
be taught that in undertaking tyrannical or fifteen years of imprisonment. But

measures thev take their lives iii their less two months afterwards the
than
hands. The other prisoners were men majority of them were free: for the
who had participated in the various Empire had passed away like a vision
attempts at insurrection in the spring of the night, leaving the country to
and early summer, and they were no suffer from the effects of the evil pas-
little amazed at seeing as the principal sions which the Imperial tyramn had
witness government one of the
for the roused, when they found
and which,
men whom thev had supposed to he their that they could not wreak their vengeance
firmest ally, almost a leader, and who upon the fallen tyrant, turned upon it
was nothing but a police spy. All the the innocent.

prisoners were aggressive and violent in No journal in Paris, or in any part
their demeanor. The Imperialist magis- of France, ventured more than the
trates began to realize for the fust time mildest comments upon this whole-
that the rt'yiiw of terror was oxer. sale trial and the savage sentences which
Ferre. accused of conspiracy, declined elided it. And meantime the attention
EUROPE IN .STORM AND CALM. 177
of the public was thoroughly engrossed precipitated from its high place. His
with the procession towards the Irontier. policy was the subjectof the bitterest, criti-
Rarely has a great war been entered cism, even among his own diplomatic
upon with more apparent gayety on both agents. " Bismarck could count,'' says
sides, until the miserable poverty ami M. Rothan, " neither on the assistance
neglect of the quartermasters' depart- of Wurtemburg, nor that of Bavaria. If
ments were exposed. The French sol- Prussia, during the first week of the dif-
diers manifested all the traditional gayety ficulty, from the 3d to the 11th of July,
of the Gauls, and the Germans, on their had raised at Stuttgart or .Munich the
part, came up to the Rhine and began question of casus foederis, she would have
to climb the great hills of the Palatinate encountered a peremptory refusal. The
as if they were on a pleasure excursion. neutrality of the kingdoms
southern
Every day the people of Paris were would have taken from the war its na-
treated to a bombastic manifesto from tional character, ami would have main-
the Imperial Ministry. Emile Ollivier, tained the load open between France and
in describing to a friend the manner Austria; that would have meant one hun-
in which the army of Napoleon would dredand fifty thousand less combatants in
vanquish the Prussians, says: "We the ranks of our enemies. Bismarck had
shall blow them away." The Empress never been caught in a more desperate
Eugenie, who had when the war was situation. It needed his cool audacity. all
first declared said, "This war is my the resources of his great mind, and the
war, and I must have it," inspired the good-luck which has presided over his
whole Court with her brilliant pictures career, to get him out of his difficulty.
of the approaching success of the Na- He knew how to conjure the danger, and
poleonic arms. But there were not to beat us on the ground where we ought
wanting men who were serving the Im- to have triumphed, by simply keeping
perial cause, who had clear vision, and his presence of mind. lie speculated on
whose hearts were tilled with sorrow as our passions, on our maladresse, on the
they noted the approach of the catas- position of tin' Empire, on the chances
trophe. M. Rothan, who was Consul of of a revolution in France, lie did not
the French Empire at Hamburg at the ignore the causes which hail led the Im-
outbreak of the war, has left on record perial Ministry to adopt such a bitter
an interesting statement of the illusions tone with regard to the Spanish incident.
of his own government, illusions which He knew that the < 'orps Leyidatif was
he tried in vain to correct, and for torn by parliamentary ami dynastic in-
venturing to doubt which he narrowly trigues that the Extreme Right wanted
;
escaped the charge of lack of patriotism. at any price to upset the Cabinet, and
It is to M. Rothan we are indebted
that that to carry out its purpose it had re-
for one of the clearest and most concise solved to give to the candidateship of
accounts of the situation in North Ger- Prince Hohenzollern the proportions of
many in the early days of July. He a national question. He also knew of
thinks that Prince Bismarck was for a the hopes that were cherished at the
time after the question of the candi- Court of the French sovereign, where a
dateship ofvon Hoheuzollern
Prince large party flattered itself that a fortu-
came up, in a very dangerous position, nate war would consolidate the dynasty .
and that he might easily have been and would permit the repeal of the liberal
17* EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
concessions made by the Emperor." Prussian army would be surprised before

This, if must be remembered, is writ- it was concentrated,
tenby a member of the Imperial Party, M. Emile Ollivier, in conversation
who thus sets the seal upon the incoru- with a political friend, at the close of
petenee and folly of his political asso- the war,gave the following account of
ciates the manner in which hostilities were
From his corner of observation, at decided upon. " I was sitting in my
Varzin, Count von Bismarck followed office," he said, " occupied in drawing up
all the phases of the crisis, and carefully the conciliatory declaration which we
watched the pretext which should bring had agreed on in the Council of Minis-
him upon the scene. " He wanted war," ters after the withdrawal of the Prince
says M. Rothau, ••hut he did not like to von Hohenzollern front his project; and
assume the responsibility of it. lie so I intended to read this document to the
carefully manoeuvred as to bestow the' Chamber. I felt glad that we had known
odium of the provocation upon us. While how a conflict,
to avoid which had been
he sent one envoy to Ems to tell the King so imminent, and was congratulating mv-
of the irritation of public opinion, and self on our success, when the Duke de
the indignation of the military party iii Gramont, very much agitated, came
Prussia, because of the King's excessive into the room. He held in his hand
mildness towards France, he was acting various documents, and among others the
with great vigor at Vienna, Florence, telegraphic despatch that Count von
and especially at Si. Petersburg. He Bismarck had sent to all his agents, to
corresponded constantly with Von Moltke, inform him that the King, after hav-
who was already preparing in his custom- ing been insulted by the French am-
ary mystery and silence the mobilization bassador, had refused to receive him.
of the German armies." 'This,' said the Duke, "is a blow in the
M. Rothau points out a fact, which face of France given by Prussia. I
all journalists, and other observers who shall resign my portfolio sooner than
chanced to he either in Germany or in suffer such an outrage."' — "I." said
France at the outbreak of tin' war, did M. Ollivier. " was anxious for peace. I
not fail to notice, and that is, that the worked ardently for its maintenance
Germans were very much alarmed at the without cessation. I hail, in harmony
idea of a French invasion, expected it, with the Emperor, who used the whole
and made their greatest efforts with a weight of his authority, striven against
view having the first battles fought
of extreme measures, and here I found my-
as far as possible from the Rhine. But self constantly confronted with the
they did not for an instant seem to hope necessity of war because of this grave
that these first battles would be fought provocation." M. Ollivier is renowned
only when the German army had got past for his delicate artifice, and the ingenious
the Fiench frontier. Before the rupture manner in which he endeavored in this
of diplomatic relations there was a rumor conversation to cast back upon Prussia
in northern Germany thai a French army the weight of the responsibility of declar-
corps was marching upon Luxembourg, ing war will not escape attention,
and that the French avant-garde had Shortly after this conversation with
already entered the Palatinate. There the Duke de Gramont and the repro-
was a universally expressed fear that the duction of Bismarck's despatch in the
EUROPE IN STORM AXU CALM. 17i»
papers, the French Council of Ministers of the Seven States, to which he had
was convoked in haste in such haste. ; been accredited. " I left Germany," he
in fact, that two of the ministers did said, " in arms ; grave, solemn, full of
not get their letters of convocation in hate for us, quite understanding that
time to be present. The Emperor the supreme struggle was at hand, yet
opened the session by saying thai he ready for all sacrifices. At Paris 1
was obliged to recognize the fact that found only tumultuous scenes, drunken
he was a constitutional sovereign, '-it hands of workmen giving themselves up
is my duty." he said, "to submit to to patriotic saturnalia. It was a poignant
your wisdom and patriotism, to decide contrast." went at once to the Duke
lie
what course we shall take in view of de Gramont and asked for an inter-
the incidents we have just heard about." view. '' I thought." he said, "that
On the motion of Marshal Le Boeuf the government must he anxious to
it was decided that the reserve of confer with ils accredited agents arriv-
(he army should then he called up. ing from Germany, and to get at their
"When they heard this in Germany," latest impressions; but I was mistaken.
writes M. Rothan, " there was the live- The Emperor, worn down by sickness,
liest apprehension all along lie- line. and overwhelmed with cares, gave no
No one doubted that our preparations audiences. I found in the waiting-rooms
wereall made for the instant invasion of the Tuileries only a few orderlies,
i Southern Germany, for the immedi- lazy and spiritless; they were playing
ate occupation of the Grand Duchy of at cards, while the sovereign, opposed
Baden, anil it was expected that this to the war. given up to fatalism,
would have a weighty effect. The yielded to sombre presentiments
the
Germans also thought thai a French which a few days afterwards were re-
squadron would shortly appear off fleeted in his melancholy proclamation."
Copenhagen, with at least thirty thou- When M. Rothan saw the Duke de
sand men ready for landing." lie Gramont he found him very haughty
wrote at once a long despatch to the and disposed to lie cheerful, lie was
Duke de Gramont, giving the state loud, in his praise of the French troops.
of public opinion in Germany, and He foresaw the complete crushing of
closed his letter with these significant Prussia, and drew a picture of her im-
words: • The newspapers say that ploring peace after French victories. He
Germany is now at last agreed; that said. • We shall have more allies than
the Germans are all united from the we shall know what to do with we ;
sea to the Alps. The King will leave must have our elbows free at the mo-
for the army as the protector of the ment of peace." But to another French
Federation of the North, but he will diplomat he said: " You are wrong to
come back as Emperor of Germany." suppose that we are anxious for the
The Duke de Gramont must have neutrality of the Southern German
mused upon these words at frequent kingdoms. We do not want it. It
intervals a few months later. On the would hinder our military operations.
19th of July, at seven o'clock in the We must have the plains of the Palat-
evening, the secretary of the Senate of inate to develop our armies in."These
Hamburg gave M. Rothan his pass- ambassadors from the front, as they
ports, and he at once left the territory might be justly called, tried to point
I
ISO EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM
on i to tin- members of the ministry to the cabinet of Marshal Le Bcauf.

the magnificent military preparations " What impression do you bring from
of Germany ami the defects of the Germany ?" said the Marshal. "Avery
French organization. " Do you not sad one. I fear that the Imperial gov-
see," llu'v said. " that the calculations ernmeut lias been badly inspired, and
of our stalls are not based on anything that, in provoking Prussia, it has played
real, and that we shall be obliged to the game of Count von Bismarck." — •• I
modify our plan of campaign? We shall do not ask you for your remarks on the
have to divide our forces instead of government's policy. am not a poli-
I
contentrating them. We shall per- tician. Kindly tell me what you know
haps have to take to the defensive in- about the German army," said the Mar-
stead of developing our armies on the shal. " 1 merely want to know what
plains of the Palatinate, as the Duke de you know about the mobilization and the
Gramont wishes to do." formation of those arruies." " It seemed —
M.Rothan records with some bitterness certain," answered M. Rothan, "two
that after dancing attendance upon one days ago, when 1 left Hamburg, that on
of the important personages for two the '_'-"ith of July all the infantry, and on
days, when every hour was as precious the "_'7th all the cavalry reserve would
as an ordinary week, the minister gave have joined their corps; and on the 2d
him two minutes, and said :
" If you of August, at the latest, the whole army
wish to continue the conversation — would be concentrated. I will add, that
have no time to talk now come to the — the Minister of Prussia in Paris. Baron
theatre this evening, and seethe Grande Werther, announced to the crowd, as I
Dltchesse. We can finish what you have went through the railway station in Han-
to say there." M. Rothan several days , over, that he was in a position to say
alter war was declared, sick at heart at that Germany had much the advance,
the spectacle of such negligence and and that she would surprise the French
recklessness, betook himself to the Mill- army in process of formation."
istrv War, where he round General
of On hearing this statement, made with
Lebrun, ami tried to tell him of the the resolute courage of one who knew
rapid advance of the German armies, what he was talking about ami fully
lie reminded the Genera] that Prussia appreciated its gravity, Marshal Le
had, since the campaign in 1866 in Bo- Boeuf's face turned quite pale. He rose
hernia, changed the principle of its orig- and stepped back a few steps, like e
inal plan of mobilization, and would awakening from a dream. " It was,"
infallibly be ready for vigorous action in said M. Rothan, in describing the inter-
nine days after the declaration of war. view, "as if he felt that this unexpected
General Lebrun was unwilling to admit news had decided his destiny." The nest
that tin' Germans could possibly move questions that he asked were falter-
more rapidly than the French armies, ing, and denoted a profound mental ilis-
However, after observing the extreme turbance. Still he said he could believe
agitation of M. Rothan, and the enipha- no such rapid mobilization of the enemy's
sis with which he dwelt upon the (lancer, forces. lie had declared, before an sis-
he said " We will go and see the Minis-

: semblage of his colleagues, that Franco
ter of War, and you may tell him what had a clear advance of eight days over
you think lit." So they were admitted Prussia, and it would seem as if he really
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 1*1
believed that the Prussian army would two or three days, for by that time my
not he able to enter into campaign lie- operation will be completed. You must
fore twenty-one days, instead of nine. know, then, that to-morrow morning 1
which M. Rothan set as the latest date, am going to send the Frossard corps to
and which was, in fact, all that was take Sarre and Sarrelouis. Then I am
required. There were but few in the going to send MacMahon and de Failly
Imperial party who, like M. Rothan, to fall upon Landau, and the junction
refused to allow their pride to interfere of the two army corps will be operated
with their reason. Ollivier, Lebrnn, in the space between Landau and Sarre-
Le Bceuf, the Duke de Gramont, all louis. I should like to know from you
persisted to the last in disbelieving in the if there is a military route practicable
constant reports of the wonderful Prus- between the two military towns." The
sian organization ; and the overweening citizen of Metz stared at the Marshal
confidence and blindness of the party are •if France. " Monsieur le Marechal,"
slimmed up in the almost pathetic out- he said, " this junction is absolutely im-
burst of the Empress when she was told possible under tin' conditions which you
that Napoleon was a prisoner "You : indicate. Between Landau and Sarre-
lie ! he is dead." louis there is a regular little Switzerland,
Marshal Le Boeuf was doomed to many a mass of mountains, which a handful
deceptions at the outset of the war. of men could defend against the most
It is told of him that on
the evening powerful army in the world." The Mar-
Saarbruck he sent for
after the battle of shal bit his lips. " But there is a rail-
one of the citizens of Metz, who was way in that direction and a canal.'" he
somewhat renowned in the country for said. '•
There is, indeed, a railway ; but
his topographical knowledge, and asked it passes through nine tunnels, and thn e
him if he knew the lay of the lands where pounds of powder could break up com-
Rhenish Bavaria touched the French fron- munication there in three hours." So
tier. The citizen answered modestly that Marshal Le Bceuf said nothing more
he did. " Then I am going to confide to about his plan; and this was the man
you a great secret," said Marshal Le who at that time held in his hands the
Bceuf. " You will only have to keep it for destinies of the French arm v.
182 EUROPE IN STURM AND CALM.
CHAPTER NINETEEN.
The Race for the — Von MoltUe's Mysterious Journeys before the War. — Captain Samuel's Tele-
Rhine.
gram. German Advance. — Scenes along the Historic Stream. At Cohlentz.
— The At Mayencc. — —
— The Road to Wiesbaden. —The Crown Prince :ct Speyer. — In the ITalz. — The Bavarian Troops.
- Their Appearance.- Tlie Frighl of the Inhabitants.
not wonderful that the French often enough been rehearsed by all the
ITMinister is
of War turned pale, and directors of it, and every step of which
stepped hark as if he had been looking was prepared with most consummate
into his own grave, when M. Rothan knowledge.
told him, with the emphasis of convic- As a proof of the thoroughness with
I ii hi , that the Germans had the advance which the' German advance was arranged
in the mobilization of their army. The the following telegram, received at the
curious and almost ferocious indisposition French Ministry of War. from Forbach,
of the French military authorities to on the 9th of April, 1868, is worth
allow the correspondents of newspapers quoting: —
to accompany their troops was prompted "To the Minister of War: Since
by the tear of indiscreet exposure of Monday I have been following General
their plan for falling upon the roads down von Moltke, who is visiting^the frontier
to the Rhine, and making allspeed for the of Fiance and si inlying the positions,
historic stream in time to check the Ger- On Monday came up to him at May-
I
man advance. Both nations were for a ence ; on Tuesday lie stopped at Birken-
t'ew terrible, momentous days engaged feld, and took notes on the heights near
in a race for the river, and for the roads the ruins of the old castle. He slept
and mountain passes opening upon it. the same day at Saarbruck ; he there
But while poor equipments, lack of took the defensive position of the rail-
geographical knowledge, and the irrepara- way station and the canal. Yesterday
hie and criminal povertj of the quarter- he was at Sarrelouis, where he is still
master's department, at every step re- staying. This morning, in spite of the
larded ami crippled the French, the frightful went out in a

weather, he
Germans may be said to have been carriage to visit the neighboring heights,
moved, despite themselves, resistlessly 1 suppose, according to what hear, I
forward to the defence of their own, and that he is going this eveuing or to-mor-
Ihc invasion of the enemy's, country by row to Treves, and that he will go down
the operation of a machine which had the Moselle. Shall I continue to follow
been completely planned, thoroughly him up? Answer at the telegraphic

tried, and which was absolutely perfect, bureau of Forbach.
In fact, the Germans, in executing their "Captain Samuel."
tremendous forward march up the rugged Answer from the Ministry of War:
spurs of the mountains, ami through the " Follow him."
deep vales towards the French frontier, This was but one of the many visits
wei\' but performing a feat which had that the venerable Von Moltke made- to
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. is;}
the positions along the road into France ; me that before eighteen months had
and in 1869 he and his staff made a passed over our heads our Alsatia would
grand military promenade, without any be incorporated into Germany?"
concealment whatever, up to the very General Ducrot was so much impressed
gates of the Alsatia which they were with this lady's disclosures that he
destined so speedily and SO easily to begged her to go to Compiegne and tell
conquer. her story; but at the Ministry of War

General Ducrol appears to have been the General's revelations were looked
the only man on the French side who upon coldly. It was too late for the
studied the enemy's country with the Empire to profit by a warning.
same care and minute vigilance mani- The mention of this ountess de (
fested by the general staff of the Prus- Pourtales brings to mind a striking-
sian army. Many a time had he been anecdote which illustrates the mutability
through the Grand Duchy of Baden and of human fortune. During the summer
allthe country between the Vosges and of 1873 this lady went to Chiselhurst, in
the Black Forest, disguised as a peas- England, to visit the exiled Emperor and
ant, now on foot, now driving a country Empress. While she was conversing
wagon, examining at his leisure the con- with them some one brought to the
struction of the forts which he per- Emperor a photograph of a. beautiful
haps hoped one day to take. General castle in Scotland, with hunting and fish-
Ducrot was forewarned, but he could ing grounds, ami everything desirable
not make himself heard at the Imperial for a rural retreat attached to it. The
( lourt. Empress was delighted with the picture,
The Countess de Pourtales, a brill- and spoke of leasing the property for the
iant lady, descended from a French Prince Imperial. '• What are you think-
Protestant family which had to quit ing Eugenie?" said the Emperor;
of,
France on the revocation of the Edict of •• they want thirty thousand francs for
the
Nantes, and who was residing in Prussia castle " ! —
" You are right/' said the ex-
shortly before the war, visited General Empress, ••and I have not even a lied
"
Ducrot and said to him, with the
in 1868, that I can call my own !
greatest energy and indignation '•

Gen- : ( When war was declared Marshal
eral, the Germans are deceiving ns, and MacMahon was at Strasbourg, witli
what
hope to surprise us unarmed. In was known as the African army. Gen-
public they talk of peace ami of their eral Frossard was at Saint Avoid, with
desire to live on good terms witli ns ;
an army brought together hastily at (he
but when they are among themselves camp of Chalons. Marshal Bazaine
they speak with a scornful air, and say, was Metz with the army of Lyons.
at.
'Don't you see that events are moving General de Failly, who was a veritable
rapidly forward, and that nothing can hero at the battle of Solferino, and held
hinder the ddnonevient?' They laugh at out with one brigade against three Aus-
our government, our army, our Garde trian brigades, but who utterly failed to
Mobile, our ministers, the Emperor ami accomplish the combat of
anything in
the Empress, and pretend that before 1870, was at the fortress of Bitche.
lone- Fiance will be a second Spain. Marshal Canrobert was organizing the
Would you believe that the minister of Sixth corns at Chalons and the brave ;
the household of the King dared to tell General Douay the Seventh at Belfort.
184 EUROPE IN STORM AXP CALM.
The Imperial Guard was at Boulay, under opposed to this rather meagre array
General Bourbaki. of French military talent. M. Jules
Passing rapidly in review these men Claretie, in his History of the Revolution
who had attained the dazzling positions of of 1870-71, says: " The adversaries of
Marshals of France, and their colleagues, these generals, some of whom were
ii is difficult t<> find any one except already troubled before they were in
MacMahon who was entitled to the name battle, and who marched to the combat
of a competent soldier. MacMahon, with a cumbersome train of baggage-
Duke of Magenta, was a true warrior, wagons, carriages, panniers of wine and
and the very first battle in which he fruit, like the generals of the time of
engaged, 1870, showed
in that hail he Louis XV., — their adversaries were
had men enough, and men who were well those rnde mathematicians, inflexible
enough fed and equipped, it would have calculators, patient, yet violent, war-
gone hard with the Germans, magnifi- riors, like Count von Moltke, a cold
cently managed and superior in numbers strategist, with a geometer's glance, a
as they were, lie hail been a soldier thinker rather than a soldier; Prince
from his earliest youth. There was in Friedrich Karl, a kind of ferocious
his character a bit of the old Irish dash Blucher, a furious sabre-swinger; old
and energy of the MacMahons, who Steinmetz, the conqueror of Machod and
accompanied James II. in exile, into Skalitz, the ancienl enemy of Waterloo;
France, and it was manifest in all Manteuffel, who, in 1865, had, crossing
that he did during the campaign of the Eider and tin' Elbe, begun a cam-
conquest in Algeria, and in the Crimean paigu against Hanover allied to Austria ;
war, where he had a most dangerous Von Werder, harsh and sinister, the
position in the grand and last attack future bombarder of Strasbourg. All
on the Malakoff Tower. ''Here Iam, these men were strong in their hate and
and lure remain," became
I famous in their jealousy, strong, above all, he-
words in France, and MacMahon's fame cause of the military organization which
extended far beyond the I ndaries of his allowed them to launch their army corps
own country. He was, at forty-four years forward, swift as thought ; to bring the
of age, a division general who had seen fighters in railway carriages on to the
twenty-seven years of active service, battle-field, and by the same train to

Had the Empire had a dozen men like transport the wounded from the hattle-
him it might have turned the current field to the hospital. They were strong,
of moment. Bazaine hut
fate for the did I say? — hut because of our feeble-
showed the already confessed weakness ness. They brought patience, coolness,
of his character in his conduct at .Mel/.. principle, anxiety, and
against fever,
General Frossard was chiefly noted for disorder. Those who know that victory
having been the Prince Imperial's pre- depends upon the quartermaster's de-
ceptor. It was expected that he would partment more than upon anything else,
get the baton of a marshal at the first ami upon those engineers of the Held of
battle in which he participated ; hut. as carnage who are called officers of the
it chanced, that first battle was the dis- general staff, were overwhelmed with
astrous defeat, at Forbach. patriotic anguish when they measured.
Let us see what an enlightened and not the courage, — France is always sure
patriotic Frenchman says of the Germans tc have her heroes, — but the organ-
EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM. L85
ization and the mechanism of the two of heel' under each arm, and such
armies." scrambling as ensued among the sol-
Never, should I live a hundred years, diers have rarely seen.

I
could I forget my impressions on ar- At Remagen a few hilarious old gen-

riving on the Rhine while the mobiliza- tlemen came with packets of sweet
tion movement of the German armies cakes, and beer-bottles innumerable, and
was at its height. There ran be noth- as the train moved away sail"; patri-
ing more impressive than a nation in otic songs in cracked voices. Here
arms. Tin- aggregation of strong, reso- and there a man hade his wife and
lute, handsomely equipped men is stu- children g 1-1 > v, and got quietly into
pefying. One begins to think dure the train, fitting into the place prepared
are millions where he only sees thou- for him in advance. The Reserves,
sands. The eve is but slowly trained coinine; in from the country-side, made
to the appreciation of numbers. The the air ring with their songs, and cheer
uprising of the whole of Germany was after cheer was heard from the wayside
an electric surprise to all Europe, and as the trainwent by.
it is not astonishing that I was over- If hungry French soldiers on the
the
whelmed by what I saw. From the other side of the frontier could have
Belgian frontier to Cologne I was com- seen the spectacle which I saw at
pelled to take a military train, all civil- Coblentz they would have wept with
ians being declared contraband, and vexation. The provision magazines were
being already looked upon with suspicion crammed, and long trains of forage
and contempt. A man out of uniform wagons werecomingin in the early morn-
in Germany was a thing to smile at, or ing from the other side of the Rhine. The
to lie pitiful over. IT a stranger he was Prussian system for the transportation
looked at askance. Hut no one troubled of supplies was put lo a seven.' test here,
the observer during those' few days of and proved amply sufficient. As soon
advantage.
striving for the The soldiers as the movement of, or concentration of,
were too busy with themselves, and the troops, on the frontier began, the fann-
civilians were too much engaged in ers in all the country along the Hi I
gazing at them, to worry foreigners. march were notified that they must
From Cologne I followed the wave of transport a certain amount of supplies
soldiery to Coblentz, where there was to a given point. Each fanner owns,
naturally a great concentration of troops, according to his circumstances, one or
with a view to the guarding of the Mo- two forage wagons, all built very much
selle valley. Beer and wine played alike, and subject at any moment to the
their accustomed rdle. Rigorous as is government call. The burgomaster of a
the German discipline on the march, certain district receives notice from the
and in the enemy's country, there was army head-quarters that so many sup-
not much show of it among those thou- pliesmust be at a certain point at a
sands upon thousands of lusty young given time ; ami he gets them there.
men, who were packed as neatly as figs knowing full well that if lie docs not the
in abox into the snug railway carriages. consequences will be extremely unpleas-
At Bonn, the old university town, there ant.
were at least five hundred men on the Of course the situation would have
railway platform, each one with a bottle been greatly changed could a French
IcSb EUROPE [N STORM AND CALM.
army of the old revolutionary or Repub- as if going to a wedding. Tho new-

lican type liave gi rolling and plunging comers from a village in the back
down the Moselle valley, living on plun- country usually made a round of the
dcr, and frightening the farmers and shops, to buy a few things lacking for
burghers into instant submission. But their outfit. Every second man was
the Germaus were pretty well assured smoking a long porcelain pipe, and
that there was no danger of an extended every third officer certainly wore spec-
raid in the direction of the Rhine, tacles. The fever of national patriot-
Cologne, at was
the time of my visit, ism found its vent in the singing of
the head-quarters of the general com- such songs as Die Wacht mu RJu in.
manding the Seventh, Eighth, and There was little cheering, a good deal
Eleventh corps of the Prussian army, of laughter, and liberal beer.
This command was one most of the From Mayeuce I crossed the river and
extensive in the country the Seventh ; attempted to visit Wiesbaden, where a
corps occupying the whole of West- few of the annual French visitors were
phalia, including Dusseldorf the Eighth ; still lingering, half displeased, half
keeping guard on both sides of the stunned tremendous military
by the
Rhine up to Coblentz, and thence to energy displayed around them; hut to
Mayence on the side nearest France; get to Wiesbaden was out of my power.
and the Eleventh having Hessc-Darm- 1 had fallen upon abnormal times, and
stadt and Hesse-Cassel in its care. The my carriage was ordered into a ditch,
Eighth corps, too, guarded the whole where 1 sat quite contentedly for three
section of country between Coblentz and mortal hours, while a steady stream
the French frontier and Luxembourg, of the finest cavalry 1 had ever seen
extending its lines up to Treves, Saiir- passed slowly by. Nearly every man
bruek, Sarreburg, and Forbach. Count- of this body of troops was of
grand
ing the regiments on their war footing more than average height. The officers
this command comprised about one hun- looked like a. superior kind of school-
dred and fifty thousand men. masters. They were harsh in command
As I continued ray difficult journey up and faultless in equipment. They
the Rhine (he spectacle of the military seemed as if they had come out of
preparations became more and more a line engraving, so irreproachable
impressive. The highways were filled were they: white-gloved, decorated, no
with long lines of troopers, with re- creases or wrinkles in their uniform, the
splendent cuirasses, and in gray ami saddle appointments of their horses all
gold, or in shining helmets and pretty perfect. seemed almost too nice for
It
blue or red uniforms. \t every railway soldiering. The whole

land was swarming
station dozens of young men, almost with troops. went hack to Mayence,
I
bovs, were waiting until thev could he and waited, before could reach my I
transferred to the various points where hotel, while a boyish regiment went by,
they were incorporated in their regi- clink! clink! every loot striking the
meuts. Nearly all were clad simply and pavement in exactly the same way,
carried little parcels, hurriedly made up. every knee thrown out at tin same
1
of provisions ami clothing. Now and identical angle. Under the hot sun
then group walked in. singing a jolly
a dowu went a boy. His comrades swung
marching song, and laughing and joking their feel over him, and when the am-
bulance-wagon came lie was picked np The constant saluting of superiors by

as automatically and mathematically as inferiors, bawling of the orders to
the
if it were done by a machine. Click! men, and the compactness of the pro-
clack On went the ambulance-wagon
! vision and baggage trains, all strike;
with the sick man, hut the military strangely upon the foreigner's sense.
movements had suffered no check'. Here was an organization which had
The components of the Prussian sol- evidently been going on and on for years
dier's uniform are very simple, tasteful, and years, until the men who composed
mid convenient. He might make a drink- it did things as if by inherited motion;
ing-cup out of his helmet, and carve and yet this wonderful mechanism had
meat with his spike. He wears a bluish been hut little heard of until four years
tunic with red colored cuffs and lappels, before, in 1866. As to the saluting, it
and a stout pair of dark-colored trousers ; is incredibly formal. I sat, one evening,
carries a thick blanket, a canteen, a during this German advance, in front of
cooking-can, and a well-planned knap- the head-quarters of Prince Augustus, of
sack in undressed calfskin. His fatigue- Wurtemberg, atKaiserslautern, in Rhen-
cap is flat, bordered with red. He has ish Bavaria, watching the common sol-
an undress uniform of coarse flax cloth, diers,who were carrying heavy sacks of
and a. pair of white trousers. His over- bread or grain, ami who were obliged to
coat is long, voluminous, and docs pass the sacred place where the little
splendid service at night, when he biv- potentate was sitting. Although the
ouacs in the open air. for the German | r fellows in their dusty fatigue-jackets
army has no tents. The pockets and were bent almost double with their loads,
folds of his clothing are so arranged each one managed so to arrange his bur-
that he can carry in them numberless den that he could carry one hand stiffly
little things, and he fully improves the to his cap, until he had quite passed
opportunities. beyond the old prince. It was painful

When he bivouacs he plants his gun to see mature men stand sometimes for
against his bayonet, places his side arms five minutes holding their hands to their
hanging overthem, and caps them with his hats, while a beardless hoy, some aris-
helmet. I have seen ten thousand of these tocratic officer, was conversing with
helmets poised thus on a long plain, them.
making one sheeny mass, which from a Although the Germans had sacrificed
distance was dazzling as a golden sea. much to order they had yet known
On a country road, not far from Mav- how to .combine elegance with it. The
cnee. I saw a troop of Hussars. It was held equipage of Prince Friedrich Karl,
the most superb spectacle that I wit- which I saw at Kaiserslautern. was
nessed during' the war. Each man sat one of the most perfect that can he
erectand motionless as a statue, with imagined. There was a train of six
one hand on the carbine laid upon his compact light carriages, stored with all
side pommel, and each beautiful horse the requisites for the Prince and his
was richly trapped. The cavalry lias stall'; and. close behind it. a field tele-
the greatest wealth of dress, and the graph and field post service. The t ile-
rathe:-gaudy splendor of some of the graphie wagons are so arranged thai a
cavalry corps has a remembrance of the station can be established, and rapidly
middle ages in it. connected with an existing line, within
INS EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
reasonable distance. Couriers rode be- afternoon the answer came to disappoint
hind the wagons in the order of march, and annoy us, couched in the follow-
readv at moment's notice to go from
a ing terms: " IlisHighness regrets that
the wagons to the staff, and hack again, an order this morning arrived from
incessantly. As for the field post all Berlin that no correspondents should
journalists who followed the movements be allowed to follow the field army,
of the German armies learned to admire He is the inure sorry for this as he
and reaped the managers of that match- had already given orders, since the
less institution. reception of your letter, for the ex-
At Carlsruhe, at Darmstadt, at Hei- animation of your credentials and such
delberg, everywhere in the picturesque as could properly be given."
facilities
and poetic region in which the English was evident that neither German
It
and American traveller loves to linger nor French wanted observers on the
in the soft midsummer time, there frontier before the first battles; but
was the same haste of warlike prepara- we pushed on into the Pfalz, the rug-
liuii. I pushed on to Speyer, a rather ged mountain country of Rhenish Ba-
uglv old town, notable chiefly for its varia, over which both French and
and there found the
historic cathedral, Prussian armies have moved in hostile
Crown Prince of Prussia, who was the array in past times. All through this
object of m\ search. Here were doz- country the peasants were half fright-
ens of Bavarian regiments; indeed, all ened to death. Although thousands
Bavaria seemed to have taken rendez- upon thousands of soldiers were passing
vnus at Speyer. There was a general alone- the country roads, in nearly every
alarm among the inhabitants. The antiquated dorf, filled with squeaking
French were reported to have crossed geese and crazy peasants, we found
the frontier, and tin- Bavarians had the bedding and crockery packed for
been so hurried to get up to this point instant transportation. From ever}
that half-a-dozen pom fellows, in the house a Bavarian flag was hung out,
square near the cathedral, were dying and in some of the country mansion-.
of sunstroke, and hundreds were laid of the better sort little hospitals had
up with sore feet and with aching heads, been prepared. At Neustadt we found
The Bavarian Jaegers, clad in blue that the general occupying the town
hunting suits, and with green plumes had.given orders that no civilians should
in their helmets, were quite imposing, be admitted to the hotel; but we were
Manv of the pool- boys had pallid faces. made exceptions by the landlord, who
and the people of Speyer said that they said that lie would take the risk. At
would not fight; hut they did fight the railway station my English com-
like demons at the battle of Woerth. panion was collared for looking at a
The English gentleman who was my passing military train, — what righl had
companion in travel said they looked as he to look at it, indeed !
— and he luckily
if they would like to bolt; but none of escaped with a muttered apology.
them bolted. AVe sat late that night in trout of tile
After a night at Speyer my companion little hotel, struck with astonishment at

and I sent polite letters to the Crown the continual succession of troops, eom-
Prince, asking for military passes into ing,coming, coming, in endless procession
the field of operations; and during the and seemingly without fatigue, inarching
oil to the fields beyond and establishing hundred thousand. The Bavarian army
their bivouacs with but little noise and furnished one hundred and ten thousand
with no confusion. The surprise I felt soldiers; the Wurtemberg army, thirty-
then at the national strength displayed six thousand; and the army of Baden,
was, however, no greater than that which about the same number. All these, in
I felt on the day after the capitulation the last days of July, when hostilities
of the forts of Paris, when I saw come were just to commence, were grouped
inarching into Versailles, click! clack! into three armies: the first, under the
with the knees thrown out at the proper command of old General Steinmetz the ;
angle, a regiment of scaly-looking boyish second commanded by Prince Friedrich

troops, of fresh troops sent up from the Karl and the third by the Crown Prince
;
depths of Germany, to fall in, if neces- of Prussia. Under General Steinmetz,

sary, as readily and willingly as the tirst and, later, under Von Manteuffel, were
actives had fallen in. It may with truth the First, Eighth, and .Seventh corps,
be said that, from the beginning of the the Seventh commanded by the famous
campaign to the end, Germany had fresh Lieutenant-General von Goeben under ;
troops constantly arriving in France, Prince Friedrich Karl were the Second.
and when the war was completely ended Third. Ninth, Tenth, Fourth, and Twelfth
still had a few left to draw upon. The corps, the latter the Saxons, commanded
confederation of the North alone was by the Prince of Saxony, and tin' famous
ready at the beginning of the war to put Guard corps commanded by the Prince
on foot three hundred and eighty bat- of Wurtemberg and in the third army,
;
talions of infantry, three hundred squad- which fought at Weissenburg, at Woerth,

rons of cavalry, two hundred batteries of at Sedan, and was so conspicuous in
artillery, being one thousand two hundred trout of Paris during the siege, were the
pieces, thirteen battalions of engineers, fourth. Fifth. Sixth. Thirteenth, ami
thirteen train battalions, — in all, five Fourteenth corps. Three more formi-
hundred and fifty thousand active men ; in dable, better equipped, or more powerful
addition to which had a reserve of one
it armies never fell upon the frontiers of
hundred and eighty thousand men, and a any unhappy country.
solid landwehr numbering more than two
liKt EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER TWENTY.
'lln Spectacle in —
A, Visit to Landau.
the Palatinate. —
The Saxon Troops mi the March. A Night —
Drive. — Echoes
from Weissenburg. —
Through the Glades to Kaiscrslautern. The Narrative <-l —
Strange Adventures which there befell us.— A Military Prison. Challenging :i Denunciator. —
Arrested a Second Time.
f|"MIIS concentration of troops in the eighty-two days of siege; but the fol-
-L Palatinate was so remarkable a spec- lowing year it returned once more into
tacle that we were willing to run greater the hands of the French, yet once again
risks than we were likelv to be subjected lo be taken by the Imperials in 1704.
to. for the purpose of witnessing it in Dunn swept the French upon it in 1713.
all its aspects. It was noised abroad in occupying it a whole century, to give it
the army, all too soon for our purposes, up to Bavaria after the treaties of 1815.
that newspaper correspondents, or " writ- was from Landau that one of his
It
ers," as the Prussians scornfully called Generals wrote to Louis XIV. "Sire. :
them, were not admitted among the we have taken more flags and standards
guests of the moving camps and where-
; than Your Majesty has lost of soldiers."
ever we went, therefore, we were eyed )n the way to Landau, in the broiling
<
and scowled at as presumable members sun. we had an opportunity to observe

of some other profession. the conduct on the march of the young
We were not slow to discover that the Saxon troops, who did not appear to
inhabitants of the Palatinate were by no great advantage at the outset of the
mean-, sympathy with the Prussians,
in campaign, but who behaved wonderfully
On the contrary they seemed to cherish well when in front of Paris, and did
for them an especial dislike, criticised plenty of rough work. Evidently the
lhem severely, and laughed at their pom- Saxon military shoemakers were at fault,
pons air, their stiff uniforms, and their for the soldiers were seated by hundreds
somewhat objectionable habit of combing in the ditches, nursing their feet, and
their hair and whiskers while they sat at doubtless cursing the provocative French
meals. most heartily. At the gates of Landau
From Neustudt we went to Landau, we met a long train of ambulance-wag-
the famous fortress-town, which the Em- ons, carrying to a hastily improvised
peror Rudolph of Hapsburg made a free eamp two or three score of sunstruck
Imperial city in the thirteenth century, youths. The poor fellows, thrown into
and which was taken by assault and the wagons with their heavy knapsacks
pillaged seven times during the Thirty and blankets slill strapped upon them,
'('ears' war. Landau was taken posses- presented a pitiable appearance. With-
sion of by Louis XIV. at the same time in town everything indicated that
the
that he placed his hand upon Alsatia ; the mixed forces who were there asseni-
and he had it magnificently fortified by bled were on the alert, as was eminently
Yauban. Back came the Imperial armies proper in the immediate vicinity of the
and wrested from Louis XIV.. after
it enemy. Regiments came and regiments
went; cavalry clattered hack and forth; night,and coming, towards dawn, to a
reviews were held ; the sick were lie- group of houses, we rested there.
little
stowed in proper houses. The general hoping fur better luck when the sun
officers were quite magnificent at the should rise.
table d'Jidte of the principal hotel, dining When morning came we were startled
and wining freely, yet with a certain by certain dull sounds, which came from
preoccupied air peculiar to soldiers when the direction of Fiance, and were some-
action is impending. what amused at the perturbation with
We left Landau late at night, and which the German villagers declared that
just in time to escape the overhauling these sounds were the echoes of the mi-
of an inquisitive officer of the day. Our trailleuses, and that the French would
(canister lost his way while we were soon he upon us. There was, however,
making for Germersheim, and. taking no falling back on the part of the Ger-
a long th'-tnitr. left us in doubt as to man troops; and, as we heard nothing
1
whether we were in France or German^ -

,
further, we concluded that our cars
had
but with tiic pleasant consciousness that been deceived, and, after an hour of ex-
we were not far from the scene of ploration in tin' direction of France, we
battle. Night came on. so quiet that as returned to Germersheim. Hence my
we drove over the plains we could bear English friend counselled an immediate
the cows pulling the short grass in the journey to Kaiserslautern, from which
fields. Now and then we heard the point one might see something of the
tramp of hundreds of feet, and saw long principal advance in that direction.
black shadows, denoting the passage of We had indeed heard the echoes of a
a regiment. we came to the
At last battle,and of one which, though of no
high road, and by and by to Gercners- greal importance or duration, opened
heini. where we were saluted by a vig- the door of Alsatia for Germany. The
orous invitation to halt, and a rather arinyofthe Crown Prince, with the Fifth
scornful intimation to "clear out" when corps, thirty-two thousand strong; the
we requested admission ; the sentinel Eleventh with the same number; the
merely deigning to remark that if First Bavarian corps, of thirty-eight thou-
was Festung (a fortification), and that sand men. and the Second with thirty-
we could not enter after hours. So we two thousand, and the Bavarians and
betook ourselves to the highway once Wurtembergers more than forty thousand
more, passing through many antiquated innumber, with two divisions of cavalry
dorfs, where the peasants were in a high seven thousand strong, —
all these were
state of excitement, and at the entrance thrown forward upon or near a point
of each of which little groupsof cavalry- which was defended by a French di-
men sat motionless on their horses, vision,only nine thousand in number.
wrapped in their long cloaks, not even The French are right when they say that
looking at us as we passed. After va- General Douayand his division at Weis-
rious other adventures, such as straying senburg fought one against live, for at
into the old Rhine bed, and narrowly least eighty thousand Germans took part
escaping wreck in the darkness and in in the brief struggle on the morning of
the sandy, water-deserted reaches, we the 4th of August, which resulted in the
decided that it would be useless to French ami the occupation
retreat of the
return to Landau or to Speyer that of Weissenburg. Had the French been
192 EUROPE IX STORM AM) CALM.
strong mid quick enough to have at their work, so that Weissenburg is
pushed into Germain at this point, half- qualified as a costly victor}' even by the
a-dozen clays before the mobilization of Germans. The French resistance, al-
the German army was complete, how though the troops were totally unpre-
different the results might have been! pared for such an overwhelming attack,
But all the world knows the history of was very creditable, and lias always been
the surprise, for it ivas a genuine sur- praised liy the enemy. It was better for
prise, at Weissenburg. The French sol- General Douay that he should have been
diers, in describing the battle, asserted killed, for, generous and true-hearted as
thai General Douay had to improvise he was. he would never have forgiven
his plan of action under the enemy's himself for being the unwitting instru-
fire. A gallant French officer, M. Du- ment for the admission of the Germans
ruv. who was engaged in the action, into the province which they had deter-
saiil : We were halted for an instant mined to take from their traditional foe.
to reform lines, while advancing to the We made the best of our way over
heights from which the German lire had the encumbered roads, now liter-
come. This halt of ours was like' a ally swarming with troops, up through
signal for the enemy, who had been for the picturesque mountain passes to
some time silent and invisible. Ahor- Kaiserslautern, near which pretty little
rible fusillade broke out all along our town Barbarossa is supposed to be still
line of battle. The vineyards were liter- lying in his enchanted sleep. Here a
ally filled with sharp-shooters, ambus- fellow American journalist and myself
caded there since the morning, or excited the suspicious of a patriotic in-
perhaps the evening before. They fired habitant of the town, who at once spread
while kneeling down hidden among the the report that there wei e -
" French spies "
leaves, and. if I am not mistaken, shel- taking notes among the troops, and
tered behind little hillocks of earth, towards evening, after our English friend
which thev hail had time to throw up. had departed on a little reconuoitering
liy their position they had a great ad- expedition towards Homburg on the
vantage oyer us, as we were on the open frontier, we were surrounded

by six
road." stalwart soldiers, accompanied by an
The iiiiirr/r of this recital is almost officer, who, without any unnecessary
pathetic. It indicates a surprise, so politeness, informed us that we were
creat as almost to deprive this officer, arrested. We could not deny the soft
who was doubtless brave enough, of impeachment, and were marched off
military sense. He seems to imply that through the town, escorted by a jingling
it was disloyal and improper on the part procession of small boys and creasy
of the Germans to take advantage of Jews, to a huge barrack building, where
their position, or to fortify themselves we were initiated into the delights of a
in it. The Crown Prince had rattled military prison. While we were not
down from Speyer to Landau in a post- frightened we were deeply annoyed.
chaise, and thence on horseback to the because we had wished to push nil that
outposts, to be present at this action, night to the frontier. Our companion

He directed the storming of the castle in misfortune was a gigantic personage
of Schafeuburg by the King's Grena- connected with the army, who was labor-
diers, who were very badly cut up while ing under a temporary hallucination,
superinduced by copious libations, and gularly white face, and something so sad,
who insisted, :it intervals throughout yet. proud, in his demeanor that we could
the night, in threatening to exterminate not help observing him carefully. We
us with his jack-boots, which he could learned during the day that he had
certainly have done it' he had persisl d passed fifteen years in a fortress, wear-
in attempting About midnight, our
it. ing a ball and chain attached to one of
situation becoming intolerable, we clat- his legs, because he had been too free
tered furiously upon the door, and with his pen in his criticism of the gov-
made most vigorous protests, which ernment under which he lived At !
brought to us a superior officer, superbly present lie was one of the large Liberal
dressed, who took our passports and party in Kaiserslautern, men who hated,
protests, and left us with the cool and wdio did all they could to oppose, the
remark, that, whether we were right or military policy and the crushing despot-
wrong, there we must bide the night. ism which Prussia had imposed upon the
We did bide there with as much patience whole nation.
as we could command, and were not. a After what seemed to us an inter-
little startled when the door was opened minable delay this personage came out
in the morning to lind six men and a of his corner, ami informed us in the
sergeant wailing to escort us, whither German tongue that some one would
we knew not. We were ordered to " fall oine presently to examine us then fol- ;
in," and were marched, in the rain, lowed another delay, which appeared like
which was coming down in torrents, weeks, out it was only half an hour.
through some back streets of the town, An amiable gentleman, with a. fiery com-
our escort proceeding with such solem- plexion, arrived with a somewhat, be-
nity that we began to fancy that we wildered air, as if he had been suddenly
might be going to our own execution. awakened from bis slumbers, and taking a
My companion vouchsafed the remark chair, and drawing it up to tin.- table in
that they "certainly could not, shoot front of which we had ventured to seat
us." " But then," he added, "if they ourselves, he laid before him a package,
wish to, they have guns enough;" upon which he laid both his fat hands.
and with this poor attempt at wit we '1 hen he took a lung look at. us, after
were both satisfied for the moment. which he burst into a loud laugh, and
When we were quite drenched the said in English: "Veil, boys, I think'
minions of an effete despotism deposited you were in a scrape."
us in hall of
the. a large and dingy As there was no disposition on our'
structure, and retired without bidding us part to deny this, and finding that he
good-morning, but not without, seeing spoke his broken English in a manner
that we were properly locked in. As which indicated a, period of sojourn in
this hall was not especially inviting of America, we ventured to interrogate him,
aspect, we made bold to open a .side and found that he had, like many other
door, and found ourselves in a comfort- Germans, returned to the Palatinate,
ably warmed room, around three sides after a long and prosperous stay in the
of which ran shelves filled with docu- United States, and that, he was one of
ments, and we concluded that we were the members of the city council in
in the office of some functionary. Seated Kaiserslautern The military authori-

in a corner was a portly man, with a sin- ties, despairing of making spies out
;
194 EUROPE IN STORM AXD CALM.
of us. handed us over to the

had site end was a party of gentlemen wh<<
town, and had given into our new were in no wise in sympathy with our
friend's hands all the papers which had city councillor, and who were certainly
been found Upon lis. These papers making merry at our expense. We in-
were now returned to us with a cour- quired thi' reason of and our German
this,
teous apology from the representative supporter then told us that there were
(it the city's dignity and with the remark two parties in Kaiseislanterii. bitterly
that the burgomaster would shortly call hostile each to the other. Prominent in
upon us to express his regrets at the one of these parties was a certain Chris-
unfortunate occurrence. tian Sind,who had a special dislike for

It was at the " White Swan " Inn that all Americans, and for all the Germans
we had been arrested, just as we who had returned from America bring-
were .sitting down to dinner, and was
1 ing with them their criticisms upon the
somewhat amused at the vehemence old and slow methods of doing business,
with which our city councillor insisted and also bringing with them larger
upon our going to the "White .Swan" fortunes than llerr Sind and his col-
with him, and bestowing upon tin' land- leagues had been able to get together at.
lord a few specimens of Anglo-Saxon home. Ilerr Sind, in wanderings

his
invective. We declined to do this, and through the town, had observed our
expressed a preference for bed. So we movements, and had reported them as
adjourned to the Prince Karl Hotel, where suspicious to the military authorities;
we were warmly received, and sent to hence our arrest. These facts had come
the " White Swan 1 " for our personal be- out during the morning while we were
longings. We had laid quietly down to sleeping off the memory of the cavalry-
rest when there came a loud knock at man and his annihilating jack-boots, and
the bedroom door, and in walked a our arrest was now to be made matter
policeman. This we considered toomuch for a furious discussion between the
of a trial after the adventures of tin' contending parties in the city council.
night, but this functionary insisted upon My companion, who had served through
our and accompanying him.
dressing our war. was a bit of a wag, aud
civil
What was our amusement and amaze- fancied that from Ilerr Sind's appearance
ment when we discovered that the land- he might not relish the notion of a duel
lord of the "White Swan " had summoned so he sent a card to that suspicions gen-
us before a magistrate, there to listen to tleman, with an intimation that, if the
his affidavit that hehad had nothing to report concerning Ilerr Sind's conduct
do with our arrest. Back we went to were true, he had not behaved in a gen-
the hotel, and once more to lied and at ; tlemanly fashion, and hoped he would
one o'clock, the when dinner is
hour give him immediate satisfaction.
served in most German hotels, we went Ilerr Sind arose and came to our table
down to the long dining-room, in which in a state of anger which it would be
perhaps one hundred officers were smok- difficult to describe. To my friend he
ing and drinking and there we encoun-
; said, in broken English, that he would
tered our friend, the city councillor, and not light with boy; whereupon, my
a
wen' invited to break bread with him. friend, with an impetuous obstinacy
We had not been long in the room born of the occasion, endeavored to
when we discovered that at its oppo- stimulate the courage of Ilerr Sind with
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. L95
one or two of those epithets which arc civil, wherever we might travel in Ger-
rarely received calmly. But the cham- man war or peace. Meantime
lines, in
pion of the Conservative party in Kais- we received a letter from our English
erslautern was not warlike. lie bel- friend, informing us that he had been
lowed defiance, but went no further. safely bestowed in a small guard-house
After a few war-dances about our table at the next town beyond Kaiserslautern,
he retreated to his own, and there con- Ilerr Sind's denunciation having included
sumed the remains of his dinner in him, and having led the military authori-
moods" silence. The German officers, ties to believe that they had bagged a
who had got wind of the affair, were de- trio of
dangerous spies.
lighted at my friend's conduct, and The recommendation from the city
stood up in line, shouting innumerable government of did not
Kaiserslautern
" Hochs," holding out their glasses to hinder us from being arrested again, at
him as a sign of approval of his conduct. a small town near by a day or two after-
Our friend of the fiery complexion was wards.
now reinforced by a number of his col- Some years later I was conversing
leagues, and we completed our dinner with the editor of a German paper in
with the feeling of having thoroughly St. Louis about the Franco-German war,
triumphed over our enemies. and happened to mention the fact of
But this was not all. During the this second arrest.
course of the afternoon we received an " Ah " he said, " that could not have
!
immense document from the city hall, happened in the section of Germany in
signed by the burgomaster himself, and which I was born."
announcing that we were personally "Where were you born'" I ventured
known to the city government of the to inquire.
good burgh of Kaiserslautern that our ;
" In Alzey."
papers had been inspected and that we
; Now it was in Alzey that our second
were entitled to protection, military and arrest occurred.
.
L96 EUROPE J.V STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE.
Germcrsbeim. — —
The Rhino Boil.— Across the Frontier. Weissenburg. - Ou to Woerth.— The Disaster to
French.— Tho< lerman Descent of the Hill under Fire.
the —
har^c of Gen. Bonncmain's Cuirassiers.
I
—
—The Valley of Hell. — MacMal 's I), feat. The Horrors of the Kotreat.— Frossaitl's Negligence.
— Bazainc's Jcalon \
FROM Alzey we thought it worth our over the same road which we had taken
while to return to Landau and on the night of our departure from
Germersheim, and so to gel up to the Landau. The troops were pouring along
line of the Crown Prince's operations, the highways sileutlv, and with that air
Germersheim stands ou the Rhine, at a of gravity which always settles down
point nearly opposite an important for- upon a marching army when it knows
tress in Baden. The Rhine, "Inch for- that an encounter is just ahead of it.
merly persisted in S
performing the letter The country was rough, broken by small,
twice between Speyer and Germersheim, hut difficult, and on either side of
hills,
has now been considerably straightened, the post road, by whichwe crossed into
and the old bed of the river acids to the France, there were long rows of noble
strength of the fortress by making it trees. The German outposts were scat-
difficult to get within attacking distance, tered along the frontier at. every few
[mmense sums of money had been spent rods, and we heard wonderful stories
on the fortifications <>( Germersheim about sharp-shooting which we took

within the thirty years preceding the' with the necessary grain of salt. At
war. The country round about is very Weissenburg we found proclamations,
beautiful. The little Queich river rani- posted on all the principal buildings,
hies and rushes through green fields and announcing that no inhabitant would do
along the edges of pretty forests. l)i- disturbed unless interfering with the
rectly to the south of Germersheim lies progress of military operations ; in which
Sonderheim, and, further below. Hordt, case he would be shot. The French
two fortified towns of s e importance, peasantry seemed rather servile towards
The Germans hail anticipated that the the invaders, and many nun professed
French might attack from Weissenburg, loudly that they were not, at all in
usinu; the railway between Germerslieim favor of the war. They rebelled in
and Landau t<> hasten the transportation some instances against the unwelcome
of troops, we found this road
ami duty of burying the dead, which the in-
guarded at every mile with such precau- vading Germans forced upon them; but
tions as only the German armies can they were compelled to do the work,
take. Landau and Germersheim are the There were but few instances of mur-
offsets t<> Lauterburg and Weissenburg ders in cold Mood in Weissenburg after
on the southern French frontier to Rhen- thefight. One old man brained a IIus-
ish Bavaria. sar, who was entering his house, and we

From Germersheim to the frontier we were told that he would probably be
bad an uneventful jouiraey. We went shot, for it, unless itcould be proven
that the soldier had done him nomc communication with the other army
harm. corps, which were just then, although
No sooner had the Crown Frince won the Crown Prince of course did not know
his extraordinary success at Weissenburg about to suffer a defeat. But he was
it,
than he telegraphed to Berlin: "Stop now in the midst of a broken and rough
everything and send me provisions.
else, country, where forests covered the an-
Do not delay a moment." Pausing on cient hills from the sunlight, and his
the confines of the enemy's country, and advance was difficult, slow, and full of
glancing over its impoverished villages suspicion. He went forward, feeling
and bare fields, he saw that he must that he was not thoroughly supplied, and
prepare to take with him all his means dreading to go far till supplies could
of sustenance. There was not even a come up.
potato to be found in the (ields, and the On the morning of the Gth his
peasants of Weissenburg and twenty advance was approaching Ticfcnbach.
miles around were at their wits' end to Very early on that morning the sound
procure provisions for themselves. Had of rifle-shots was heard, and before the
there been a certainty of plenty to eat sun was warm in the sky the Crown
for some days the impatient Prince Prince, with a few staff officers, rode
would have engaged the French a second hurriedly to the extreme front, and
time before the Gth but lie was com- ; an engagement was at once begun.
pelled to wait, and is said to have had Marshal MacMahon had marched on the
grave doubts as to the results of this 4th of August upon Ilaguenau. The
delay. He threw himself upon the task Emperor had placed at his disposition
with unparalleled ardor, and was on toot 'the Fifth corps of General De Failly,
in the town one whole night, comforting and if that General had been diligent on
the wounded, and guarding by Ins pres- the disastrous day of the Gth the Mar-
ence the inhabitants against wrong. shal might, perhaps, have held out
Having received the news of the Siiar- better than he did against the Germans.
bruck operations, of which we knew MacMahon had intended to join his
nothing at the time of our visit, and, forces with those of General de Failly,
doubtless, being aware of the determina- and to attack the right Hank of the
tion of Frince Friederich Karl to give Germans on the 7th; but he was one
battle in that vicinity, he pushed forward day too late in his plans.
his men on the steps of the flying enemy. The Germans found that Marshal
On the evening of Augustthe 5th of MacMahon had taken up his position
he found that MacMabon's forces were between Langensulzbach on the north
not far off, hut were said to be in a dis- ami Morsbronu on the south, a field full
organized condition, the flight of the di- of ravines and patches of wood, and cut
vision which had been vanquished a! up here and there into hop-fields. The
Weissenburg having been communicated First division, commanded by General
to the whole line. He therefore' en- Ducrot, was at Froshweiler the Third, ;
deavored to crown the success of the between Froshweiler and KIsassliausen ;
invasion by a crushing blow, which the Fourth, facing the table-land of ( iuns-
would enable him to proceed to Mel/. tett. with its right on Morsbronu. A
and Nancy, driving MacMahon before division of the Seventh, placed, like the
him, and destroying all his hopes of Fifth, at MacMahon's disposition (it had
L98 EUROPE IS STORM AND CALM.
arrived in the mornim;). was put in the of the solitary mitrailleuse, which was in
second line with the Douay division, position, made these veterans groan, but
which had just been in the Weissenburg could nol them hack. The slopes
turn
fight.MacMahon had now under his were strewn wounded, and now
with
command but forty-six thousand availa- and then n stout man would jump into
hh' men with which to hold his position tin- air and fall, dismembered and blecd-
against hundred and sixty thousand

<>ih- ing. The cries of tin 1
wounded, at on.'
Germans. The Second Bavarian corps or two points in this march down the
began an attack on the Duciot division ;
hill, were so terrible that the French
at the same time the Fifth Prussian thought a general retreat had begun, and
corps attacked the Raoult division in the the artilleurs stopped firing t<> gaze, as-
centre. tonished. I'>nt still the relentless march
At seven o'clock in the morning, along went on.
a range of hills beyond Woerth, the Part of the Fifth corps, composed
batteries were playing their liveliest, entirely of Prussians from Posen, the
The little village of Froshweiler, two Seventh, Fifty-eighth and Fifty-ninth
miles from Weissenburg, was crammed regiments, many of the men with the
with French troops, waiting to .40 into Kceniggratz modal on their breasts, were
action. There was no excitement on now also engaged in this solemn prome-
tlie pari of the German troops, who uade towards death and victory and the ;
were jogging along the high-road, when columns began to blacken the hill-side as
they heard Hie advance body open lire, far as the eve could see, back to the
Everything was conducted in the most sombre line of wood. Now and then
orderly and tranquil manner. through the foliage were seen the bright
The picturesque town of Woerth helmets of the Prussians. In some
stands iii tin' basin formed by a circu- places the piles of dead, left by advanc-
lar range of hills, steep, wooded in ing regiments, obstructed the progress of
patches, and with vineyards scattered those coming on behind and a lone,
;
here and there. Beyond the town, on patient halt under tire was made by men
the north-west side, and in the direction who expected every moment to lie iiuin-
of Froshweiler, is an old castle. A bered among the slain.

little brook, escaped from the hidden Meantime the outer battle line of the
bases of the hills, wanders through French, the Turcos, the Zouaves, and
Woerth to lose itself speedily in the the Liners, equally distributed, had ad-
thickets. The French lines, as massed vaiiecd partially down the opposite hill,
upon the hills opposite the Germans, and were firing rapidly, but with lack of
were so extended as to form a species precision, at the resistless yet unresisting
of semicircle, and from these lines there and on-coining men. The French soldier
came a steady lire of shells, under which Usually goes heavily loaded with ainniii-
the Eleventh Prussian corps of Hessian nition, carrying twice the number of
and Nassau troops began, at perhaps rounds allowed in other armies and with ;
nine o'clock, to descend the hill, and the chassepot in his hands, and with his
to march steadily and unwaveringly, marvellous celerity of firing, he seemed
although they seemed marching to cer- on this day almost like a demon vomiting
tain death. The tremendous clamor of fire and smoke. One echo, one roll and
the shells, and the occasional dry whir crash, followed another so quickly that
II ROPE IX STORM AND CALM. 1!)!)
the interval between was hardly percep- from the saddles by Germans ambus-
tible. caded in the houses and in the alleys ;
The French sometimes, since the battle from the windows revolvers were tired
was ended at or very near Froshweiler, upon them, and once outside of Mors-
to which they were obliged to retire, give bronn the batteries tilled the valley with
the name of that town to it. The Prus- the very tires of hell.
sians called it the victory of Woerth, In the midst of this terrific hail of
and as such it will probably be known shell they managed to get into line ;
in history. The struggle extended over but when they charged they were deci-
a lung tract of ground, and its shocks mated, stricken as if by lightning, and
were felt in seven or eight villages. the movement which they had hoped to
MacMahon had certainly distributed his accomplish was rendered completely im-
scanty forces with admirable skill, with possible. All along the French line
a view to covering the possible advance from Elsasshausen, at which the right of
of the enemy from Strasbourg to Bitche. the Second brigade of the Third division
He had suffered great anxiety because was supported, to where the broken line
of his poverty of forces before he had of the Fourth division faltered from the
discovered the overwhelming numbers of right of the Third, — to Morsbronn,
the enemy. He was obliged to leave there was the most, frightful slaughter.
the town of Morsbronn, which after- Marshal MacMahon, as I have since
wards became one of the most important been told by French soldiers, had been
points in the battle, unoccupied, because in the saddle the greater part of the
lie had not troops enough. At this place previous and had hardly taken
night,
occurred the celebrated charge of the food since he had heard the news of the
cuirassiers of General Bonnemaiu, who Weissenburg defeat.
were thrust forward by Marshal Mac- It was to turn the general position of
Mahon in a desperate endeavor to hurl the French, and make them change their
back the dark masses of Germans who front, that the terrible advance of lie I
seemed to spring out of the very hill-side. Germans into this valley of death be-
This magnificent division of cavalry, tween the hills bristling with artillery
which has been amply celebrated in song was made. When the Germans had
ami story for the last decade in France, reached the bottom of the hill they were
went and clattering into the
crashing naturally in full possession of Woerth.
vineyards, where the men and horses were In the town itself there were no French
slaughtered by dozens. These men soli hers. The unfortunate inhabitants
of the Eighth and Ninth Cuirassiers were were half dead with fright; and, after
among the very best troops in the French the Prussians had taken possession, many
army they were fit antagonists for the
: houses were fired upon by the French,
colossal German troops; and, had they and some of the inhabitants were badly
been properly matched against an even wounded. A ••lazareth," or sanitary
number of the enemy, would have held station, was established, and the ambu-
their own superbly. They had to go lance corps of the Germans were soon
through the village of Morsbronn to de- bringing wounded into the captured town
scend into the valley, there form anew, at the risk of their own lives.
and charge. As they went through the Just outside the little dorf the slaughter
village dozens of them were dropped had been so great that dead and wounded
were piled together, and the living had bayonet wounds were found on his dead
to be picked out of the ghastly heaps of body.
the slain, while shells were making fresh While this sanguinary struggle was in
victims dose at hand. Several of the progress on the hill, and the straggling
surgeons were killed on the held. One French reserve was hurrying up, a sharp
prisoner told of being found at the very lire was begun from the left hank of the
bottom of a heap of dead men; and a Saucrbach by the Germans. This di-
Prussian officer, whom I met afterwards verted the attention of the French, but
at Versailles, told me with much gusto was soon discovered to be a false attack,
the manner in which the wounded rolled and did no great harm. Some of the
into the ditches of the valley to escape French guns were presently dismounted
bullets. lie himself, heavily wounded, by the artillery on the opposite hill,
rolled into a ditch. Presently there and the French line began to waver
joined him another, who died in a few under the tearing and rending shocks
minutes. " By the time the battle was of the German tire. Some of the offi-
over," he adds, " I was in the midst of ccrs of the line, seeing that there was
seven horrible-looking objects, who had every probability of being forced to
rolled into the mini, just as I had, from surrender, marched into the thick of the
instinct ; and live of us saved our bullets,and tell.
lives." Here on these slopes varying fortune
Rushing in wild confusion through and dealt continuous death, and the advance
around the town the German troops gradually became more difficult, he-
began charging up the steep hill, where cause not. only of the piled-up slain,
the French awaited them. By this time but of the hundreds, even thousands,
the first French corps had changed its of knapsacks thrown away by both
front,and a number of infantry regiments the combating parties. The vigorous
advanced slowly down the hill to meet attack on the extreme right of Mac-
the enemy- Half-way up the declivity Mahon's position was at last crowned with
the number of German dead decreased success. The Prussians, who had been
rapidly, and the French began to tall bringing up artillery all the forenoon,
like grain before the reaper. The Gcr- had now about sixty pieces of cannon
mans were determined to avenge the on the table-land at Gunstctt, opposite
punishment received during their terrible Morsbronn, and protected their infantry,
preliminary march, and they ran forward which charged in great numbers on the
lo shirt range, then began firing with Second division and the Second brigade
most methodical dignity, always hitting of the Third division, at Elsasshauseu.
and generally killing. The Turcos and The Bavarians and the Wurtemburgers
Zouaves were mown down rapidly, anil were in this charge, and fought like de-
such was the indignation of the Germans mons, losing less killed than any other
against die Wilden, as the Arabs were corps, '•because," said a prisoner to me,
called, that when one fell a shout of '-they never stood still long enough to
triumph arose. One lieutenant of a hi- shot."
Turco regiment, mad with the instinct The powerful fire of the Gunstett bat-
of coming defeat, ran forward, accom- teries caused a wail to go up all over
panied by twenty of his men, plump into France two days alter the battle. In
the arms of the Germans. V dozen and around the hop-fields and vineyards
EURO/'/-; LV STOHM AND CALM, 201
at Morsbronn France lost ninny a gallant a chance to get a little ahead, and to the
gentleman and gay soldier on that bitter engineer corps to block up the routes.
"
August day; and it was a black hour At a short distance from Reichshoffen
and is a black memory. (this is another French name for Woerth)
The Prussians gradually poured upon " our fired its last shot, which
artillery
the field three to one against the small the Marshal hail carefully preserved, lie-
band of Frenchmen, who now were cause, if we may believe an eye-witness,

fighting with the ferocity of despair. at four o'clock in the afternoon we were
There was in the charge of Elsasshausen already without much ammunition."
some hand-to-hand lighting, in which It is said that Marshal MacMahon was.
both sides manifested an animosity in a moment of despair and rage, in-
aroused by the mutual taunts before the clined to engage in a last charge into the
war. It was when the tremulous bugles enemy's lines in the hope of winning
were sounding retreat and misfortune for a soldier's death; but his escort said to
the armies of France that there was a him: "Why get yourself killed? You
great rush on either side for a final must not go you must come with us."
;
struggle. When this was over, the So, covered with dust, with his clothes
French, vanquished on the hills back of filled with bullet-holes, poor MacMahon
Woerth, and with their central right, designated Saverne as the rallying point
cleft in twain, found Marshal MacMahon for his troops, and left the field which
in a fainting condition, with his horse he had done his best to contest, against
killed under him. A French friend, overwhelming numbers. Saverne was
who was in this battle, told me that eight leagues away, and eight leagues
MacMahon narrowly escaped death a after such a day for this army, without.
dozen times. Once his cravat was shot proper ammunition, without food, ami
away. The Marshal, reviving, took a completely disorganized, was a terrible
hasty view of the situation, and the mel- march. The French withdrew, leaving
ancholy retreat began. behind their wounded, all their baggage,
A noble soldier of the Forty-fifth six thousand prisoners, thirty-five can-
French line, who was and
in this battle, non, six mitrailleuses, two Hags, and
who was killed at Sedan, has left on four thousand wounded men. They had
record his impressions of t!ie frightful lost General Colson, the Marshal's
condition of the French army after the General of Staff. General Raoult was
light. " All the corps," he wrote, dying. It was, as the French writers
" were mixed up in a nameless rabble. described it at the time, not, a defeat;
The enemy, from its advantageous posi- it was a veritable disaster, the blot- —
tion, threw its hissing shells into the ting out of the most vigorous corps in
midst of this crowd, cutting bloody fur- the French army.
rows chrough it. The ground over which The Germans admit that they lost
we walked was covered with dying and aboiu eleven thousand men. and the
dead men. The entreaties of the French claim that the German victory
wounded to us not. to abandon them, cost Germany sixteen thousand men.
and to carry them along, were heart- The Crown Prince himself was profuse
rending. The pursuit was ardent. Our in his expressions of respect for the
rear-guard stopped from time to time to enemy which he had encountered.
engage the enemy, and give our artillery Thus, on the Gth of August, the
202 EUROPE I.V STORM AND CALM.
Crown Prince had advanced his offen- of General Frossard, had been attacked
sive line almost in exact unison with between Saiirbruck and Forbacb.
Steinmetz, at and beyond Saarbruck, Marshal Bazaine should have sent to
towards the most important fortress of this point sufficient forces to help Fros-
France. This very fortress France had said; but it is on record that Bazaine,
not prepared properly to defend, since when he heard of the scrape into which
she had counted on cutting into the the Imperial favorite had got, said:
enemy's country. "Let him earn his Marshal's bdton
While ( General de Failly had been hesi- all alone."
tating between Bitche and Niederbronn, 1' Frossard not only got no Mar-
hearing the cannon thundering, without shal's b&ton, hut by losing the day at
hastening to the scene of combat, as he Forbach he lost the Moselle to France,
should have done, the Second corps, that
EUROPE IN STURM AND CALM. »i >.".
C 1 1 APTEF. TWENTY-TWO.
Tin- Great Battles in trout of and around Metz. — Friedrich Karl. — The Saarbruck — Folly Allah-.
and Incompetence. — The Brandenburg Cavalry. — The Field of Rezonville. — Gravelotte. — Saint
Privat. — Mars La Tour.
"TTÎIFN the decimated Prussian regi- that virgin fortress and Friederich Karl,
W
;
meats gathered together, to sing burning with emulation and a hit of

their evening hymn, after the victory at professional jealousy, cut in by Pont-a-
Woerth, two gigantic German armies Mousson, and came up by the other way.
were already on the soil of France, and The Crown Prince, only forty miles
rapidly effecting a junction. from Metz, was beginning to make the
The Germans say that the splendid good old town of Nancy quake with the
Crown Prince and of Nteiu-
unity of the visits of his adventurous Uhlans.
metz in action on the 26th was the lirst King William had taken absolute
great success of the war. For three possession of the provinces wherein
days titter Woerth the Crown Prince his armies were stationed ; had given
gave his whole time to provisioning his them military government ; enumerated
tinny, putting the living into the most seventeen classes of people who would
comfortable condition possible, and the he shot without mercy if they interfered
dead into the ground. The forty thou- with military operations; made the in-
sand men in the quartermaster's de- habitants furnish six cigars per day for
partment did their work well, and the each soldier, so said the angry Alsa-
supplies came rolling in from all direc- tians; given them to understand that
tions. Except the Prince, not a man, any soldier who abused them should he
save the dare-devil Uhlanen, or Lancers, severely punished; and even had time
who went skirmishing about the barren to answer the Pope's letter praying for
country away from the army, suffered peace, politely telling him to attend to
from hunger. The prisoners coming to his own affairs.
tln j
rear plucked up courage on the new- The old King was often afield too;
diet,and took a. jolly view of things. rode reconnoitering, attended only by
What was Friederich Karl, whose half-a-dozen officers ; sang hymns with
armies J had seen moving up through the hoys at the bivouacs ; wrote pious
the defiles of the Pfalz past Kaisers- little letters to his Queen, intended, of
lautern, doing till this time? course, to thrill the country ; devised
In a letter to his wife, which was even a gigantic scheme to catch Napo-
published in the Prussian papers of leon, and make him a prisoner in front
the day, he wrote :
" I am a half rag- <<( .Metz. hut tailed.
ing man, for I cannot, with my accursed The French Em-

part played by the
luck, find these Frenchmen. They are peror campaign up to the time
in the
all gone away." But Steinmetz, the of MacMahon's retreat upon Chalons
"aged terrible," with seventy thousand was not calculated to inspire his sub-
men, was pushing forward rapidly by jects with admiration lor his military
the short wavs north of Metz, towards or political talent. The recital of the
Saiirbrnck affair caused :i rippleof laugh- and one o'clock, when the French troops
ter at most of the European Courts, went down from the heights, aud
and the despatch sent off to the opened a violent lire upon Hie town,
Empress the moruing after the little for the first time getting;a notion of the
engagement, and published immediately tactics of the Prussians, who. as usual
by one of the leading Paris journals, in all their battles, were ambuscaded
made the dignified military men of the in the houses or behind their barri-
capital bite and scowl. In
their lips cades. The Germans were obliged to
this despatch Napoleon spoke of bis retreat, which they did with so much
son's having received the " baptism of deliberation and in such good order
fire;" of the shells and bullets falling that the French troop-; openly cx-
at their Imperial feet; of the Prince pressed their admiration. A Prussian
Imperial's coolness, and how he picked colonel, mounted on a white horse,
up a. bullet which fell near him how the
; braved the lire of the mitrailleuses so
soldiers wept at him so calm,
seeing often that he was cheered by both
and bow all this glory was procured at sides.
the moderate cost of one officer killed Despatches announcing a " great vic-
and a few soldiers wounded. lory" were sent off to Paris; but the
"This mise-en-schie," says a distin- German account, published the same
guished French historian of the cam- day, and telegraphed throughout Europe
paign, ''displeased everybody." The reduced the incident to its proper pro-
fact was, that the campaign which had portions. It read as follows: Yes-
been opened on the 2Gth of July by terday, at ten o'clock in the morning, a
a skirmish at Niederbronn, bad its little detachment of our troops at Saiir-
second episode at Saarbruck, which brack was attacked by three divisions
was occupied by a battalion of the of the enemy. The town was bombarded
Fortieth regiment of Prussian infantry, at noon by twenty-three pieces of artil-
and three squadrons of cavalry, with lery. At two o'clock the town had been
a few pieces of artillery. The Germans evacuated and the detachment retired,
were so confident that the French Our losses are small. According to the
would make the first attack, and would report of a prisoner, the Emperor was in
cross the frontier, that they had ranged front of Saarbruck at eleven o'clock."
themselves in line of battle on the Had the men of the Second Empire
light bank of the Saar, bad gent up not fully appreciated their weakness
two battalions to reinforce the troops they might have had the courage to seize
in Saarbruck as soon as the advance upon the little advantage which they at
of the French was reported, and a few firstgained at Saarbruck, and to push
miles back had strong reserves to pro- boldly forward into Germany, hoping
tect the retreat of the little corps. The that the nation would rise behind them,
French took position on the heights of and that the armies, now coming rapidly
the left bank of the river, and their forward, despite their miserable coin-
batteries swept the valley; and here missariatand other defects of equipment,
the mitrailleuses for the first time made might rush in and sweep the Germans
their hoarse voices heard. The action back to the Rhine. But all the leaders
which began in the morning of the 2d of the Empire knew that the corruption
of August culminated between eleven and the lack of preparation were not to
be remedied. They must have foreseen The soldiers were in complete disorder.
disaster,and they determined ti> satisfy • Never," says one writer, " had a.
themselves with a vain show of resistance. French army presented such a lack of
Marshal MacMahon is the only one who discipline. The soul of the country
can be exempted from this reproach. seemed to have taken wings after de-
No sooner had the Emperor sent off parted victory." In the villages the
his despatch to the Empress than he soldiers sacked and the barn-yards
went back to Metz, but not to remain hunted the poultry for their empty
there long. It is curious that his de- camp-kettles. An officer of high rank
parture from the great fortress should has recorded in his diary that he was
coincide with th beginning of the battles
i attacked by two men of his own divis-
around .Metz. He left on the morning ion, who endeavored to rob him, like
of the 14th, accompanied by the Prince veritable highwaymen, lie was obliged
Imperial, and was off again for Verdun to use his weapons against them. The
as soon as the action at Longevillc ap- rains .. re almost incessant during the
peared to have turned in favor of the retreat; the army had no tents, no
French. The Germans made much knapsacks, for nearly all had been
sport of the unfortunate Emperor, and tin-own away after leaving the field
their papers were tilled with anecdotes of Woerth. The men were covered
about his journey. "At one place," with mud; their cartridge-boxes were
savs one aeeount, "•
the Emperor asks thoroughly drenched; and, if they had
wine at a railway station,
for a glass of been forced into a fight, they would have
and drinks from the same glass as the been overwhelmed by a new disaster.
station-ma ste] . The young Prince after- Tiie ablest German military critics
wards washes his hands in the goblet. vnae prodigal of condemnation for the
Soon after the Emperor leaves in a Emperor's interference to prevent the
rough carriage, and refuses with great retreat of Bazaine upon Verdun. "The
heroism the cushion offered him. It motive," says one of these critics,
is not every day," adds the sarcastic " which prevented the Emperor Napo-
German, "that one goes from a
to or leon from ordering the army of Metz to
baptism of lire." Another account says retreat at. once to join with that of Mae-
that all grumbling because it
Paiis is Mahon, after the 10th of August, still
hears that three regiments have been remains an enigma. On the 10th of
taken from Bazaine's army to guard the August there were at Met/, at least
Imperial party to Chalons. A common one hundred and eighty thousand good
remark among the French soldiers when troops, abh to fight vigorously, espe-
Napoleon's name was mentioned was: cially all those of the Imperial Guard,
•' Do not speak of "
that, donkey to us ! which was. without dispute, the elite of
Poor MacMahon's retreat upon Cha- the French army. Metz was too poorly
lons occupied about fourteen days. provisioned for such a colossal garrison,
As the Crown Prince's army was push- anil hunger would naturally bring about
ing on vigorously in pursuit, the French its capitulation. Put the place was
abandoned along the route of march
all sufficiently provided with food, for
cases of biscuit, and forage wagons and ; many months, for a garrison of fifty
the Fifth corps left behind nearly all its thousand men, and would thus have
provisions, which were not enormous. been practically impregnable."
The folly and incompetence of the Alsatia and Lorraine, in the Vosges, and
Imperial conduct of the war was again on the Cote d'Or."
shown in forcing MaeMahou, when be It is well known in France that Mae-
was installed at Chalons, and when his Mahou yielded to the Emperor's tardy
matchless talent for organization had determination when he pushed on to
pulled together one hundred and twenty Metz, where the fighting was pretty well
thousand men and four hundred cannons over, with great difficulty but he was a ;
and seventy mitrailleuses, to leave a soldier, accustomed to obey, and hisstrong

place where he could have turned and object ions were stated only once or twice.
fought the enemy, which was pursuing That the Emperor was mainly responsible
him, to great advantage, and to make for the movement which culminated in the
a roundabout tour across the country, disgrace of Sedan, and in the blocking
perilously near the Belgian frontier, and of Bazaine's army for months in Metz,
so down, to relieve Bazaine under the is shown by a despatch sent from the
walls of Met/.. "If MaeMahou," says Imperial head-quarters, on the loth of
the same German critic whom I have August. 1870, to the then Minister of
just quoted, "did not wish, or was not War in Paris: "I send you the result
allowed, to join the army of Bazaine at of a Council of War, which will give you
once after the surprise of Weissenburg, the measures that I have decided upon."
Woerth, ami Spicheren, the best plan for As the result of this despatch the Min-
him would have been to stay at Chalons, ister War of telegraphed to .Marshal
to defend the passage of the Marne, and MaeMahou •• : In the name of the Coun-
offer upon that ground a battle to the cil of Ministers and of the private Coun-
armies of the two royal princes of Prussia cil, I beg you immediately to succor
and Saxony. He could there have con- Bazaine, profiting by the thirty hours'
centrated about two hundred thousand advance that you have on the Crown
men in the days between the 24th and the Prince of Prussia." MaeMahou did not
30th of August. This army, in favorable leave Chalons until the 23d of August,
positions along the Marne, would have in the morning.
been a very dangerous adversary for the Tin' Emperor, who seemed but little
German would have checked

troops, and ruffledby the great events which had
the march on Paris. If the French had been meantime taken place in the vicinity of
beaten they would still have had a line of Metz, went with him. The " man of
certain retreat, falling back within the line destiny " once more shone forth in him.
But if the Germans
of the forts of Paris. and. rattling along in his heavy campaign
had been beaten their situation would carriage, wrapped in huge black
his
have been desperate. In point of fact cloak lined with red, he assumed his
the Germans had at their back Metz and old Caesarian air, and, doubtless, hoped
its one hundred and eighty thousand for a few short days that fate would be
men. and Longwy, Montmedy, Tbion- propitious.
villc, Toul, Phalsbourg, Strasbourg, .Meantime the great events above
Langres, Brisach, and Schlestadt, with mentioned were destined' vastly to mod-
their garrisons. A defeat of the Ger- ify the campaign. On the 13th of
mans in the month of August in the August the King of Prussia moved his
neighborhood of Chalons would have head-quarters from St. Avoid to Fal-
been the signal for an armed uprising in quemont, or Falkenburg, as the Germans
call it, and announced to Napoleon, by and by a squadron of the Guides,

the reconnoissances that his troops then through a crowd of sad and silent citi-
made, that he was but twenty miles from zens."
Metz. lie spent the night still nearer, Steinmetz was already across the
at Hermy, and was there on the evening Moselle, and coming from the north
of the 15th also. Bazaine, who had in all haste towards Metz. Fried-
been engaged in hasty movements from erich Karl was hurrying up, but
the 10th to the 13th, was suspected by had not arrived on the mori
Von Moltke of being anxious to retire to of the 14th, when Steir
Verdun, and thence to Chalons, where whose duty itwas to
he could join the vast forces which Mac- Bazaine's whole army ei
Mahon, who had not yet got his fatal ployed until "Karl"
orders to move forward, was bringing should appear be-
together, and where battle could be given tween Metz and
in earnest. Von Moltke at once decided Verdu n,
to prevent Bazaine, at any cost, from attacked.
reaching either Verdun or Chalons, as he P r i n c e
was naturally desirous of leaving the Fried-
Crown Prince unobstructed passage erich
towards Paris. He wished, also, to have Karl's
Bazaine's army as thoroughly broken as
possible before Metz, and
then pushed back, so that
Steinmetz and Friederich Karl
could proceed forward to join
the Crown Prince. It seems
pretty evident that if Bazaine
had not been occupied with
squabbles with his officers in
Metz he would have done all

he could to binder the move-
ment of retreat, so necessary
and so wise. It was, how-
ever, by the 14th so thorough-
ly organized that he could not
well interfere. HEAD-QUARTERS OF NAPOLEON AT CHALONS.
"On the 14th," says a French
officer, "our interminable processions road lay along the very road that
began across the Moselle. Every soldier Bazaine's army must take on its way
was bent double under the weight of his to unite with MacMahon, unless lie
baggage. The army, which ought to was willing to give the united two
have been as swift as the wind, might armies battle. Bazaine endeavored to
have been compared with its burdens draw his forces from the right to the
and its absurd impedimenta to the army left bank of the Moselle as quietly as
of Darius. The Emperor had gone off possible, so as not to attract the enemy's
at noon, escorted by the cents gardes. attention ; but as soon as the movement
was perceived General Steinmetz pushed the continuous fire from tlie forts; and
forward a par) of 1 he Seventh corps, General CofHuiere telegraphed Napo- to
undcr the coinmaud of General Gotz, to Iron at Longeville, where the Emperor
attack the rear-guard of Decaen's corps, was waiting in his cart iage: "All along
It was quilt' late in the afternoon, and the line we remain victors. At half-past
the Prussians were so liasty in their at- eight we arc about to charm' again."
tack that they once or twice came under There was in fact a night charge, and
the guns of the fortress, and were the Prussian columns, which came back
obliged to rel ire in disorder. General stubbornly to the fight, were repulsed.
Prossard's corps at once went to assist Napoleon was delighted, and, holding out
Decaen, who was shortly engaged with his band to Bazaine, who came up to his
all his men, and a desperate light ensued, carriage after this last charge, said to
during which Bazaine continued to him " Well,
: Marshal, you seem to have
operate his retreat across the .stream, broken the charm." Meantime King
'The slaughter was fearful on both sides, William was telegraphing to Berlin that
and the Prussian losses, through their he had had a victorious encounter at
own incaiitiou in getting within range of Borny, near Metz ;
that the French had
the guns of Metz, were very consider- been driven back, and that he was just
able going on to the licit! of battle.
Bazaine soon saw that he could not The French corps commanded by Lad-
continue his and senl General
retreat, mirault and De Failly had suffered worse
Ladmiratilt to combat the First Pi ussian than the others, as they were on the
corps. The Second Prussian brigade, right bank of the river, about four miles
under General Glumer, joined to the divis- from Metz, and terribly scourged by
ion of Generals Kameke and Wrangel, .shell. Bazaine sent over some of the
finally drove the French Ibices in large troops, which were already in full retreat,
numbers across the river and to the for- to help them. Steinmetz had thus s no-
tifications of Metz, up under their ceeded in hindering Bazaine in bis
cover. General Von Manteuffel, who retreat, but he did not attempt the dan-
had been placed in the reserve, was then gerous task of following him up. The
called into action, and for hours was German troops were drawn off the field
occupied in storming the positions which at, ten o'clock, and marched to bivouac.
tic French had taken lure and there. There they were visited by the King
He finally forced them to quit each one, and his staff; and from Steinmetz, Wm
but not until he had suffered heavily. Von Manteuffel. and others, the old
For moii' than an hour and a. half he monarch learned that Yon Moltke's first
was within range of Metz, ami his men requisite had been gained. Prayers
were under a crushing shower of deadly wen' said, and a general season of re-
hail; lint they on no decision flinched, joicing was entered upon. All night
and later in theday pushed on to Borny. the watchers on the walls of Met/, could
still nearer Metz. The greater part of bear the anthems and the chorals of the
tic battle was fought on a plain called soldiers rising superbly clear out of the
Metry, between Vougy and St. Barlec, darkness and distance, and wondered
two small villages. The French were liow the armies which leal suffered such
very confident of victory, so great were terrible losses during that afternoon
the Prussian losses, and so telling was could muster courage to sing. The
losses on the Prussian side were roughly running parallel. That upon which Ba-
estimated at from eight thousand to zaine had decided to retreat is the old
sixteen thousand men at the time ; the Roman road, which at (iravelotte, one
French on that day lost about thirty-four and one-fourth miles wesl of Metz, splils
hundred men, killed and wounded. The into two avenues, one leading by Don-
vineyards, the ravines, the woods, were eourt to Verdun the other through the
;
filled with Prussian bodies, and the villages of Rezonville, Vionville, and
slaughter would have been greater if the Mars-la-Tour, to the same place. Vion-
French artillery had not come to the end ville, three miles from Uoncourt, is two
of its ammunition and been compelled to and three-fourths miles west of Metz.
retire before nightfall. As in nearly all Gravelotte nearly eleven miles from
is
the battlesof the war the French artillery the fortress,and is a small hamlet of
opened with a terrifying fire; then, just seven hundred inhabitants, built on a
at the moment it was most needed, had high bluff. This height governs on the
nothing to fire with. east the valley of the Meuse. Vion-
All night the pale moon showed to ville, a simple Alsatian dorf, is six miles
the pickets of the reposing armies beyond. From Verdun
Metz the dis- to
shadowy forms flitting about on the tance is thirty-five miles; from Mars-la-
battle-field. These were the Prussians Tour, which became an important point
and the French delegated to secure the in the battle of the Kith, it is twenty-one
wounded and bury the dead. This was miles; from Gravelotte to Mars-la-Tour
done in silence and in sorrow, no encoun- is on an excellent highway.
six miles,
ters occurring while the solemn duty was Rezonville, from which point the King
performed. of Prussia sent his famous letter to the
Monday, the anniversary of the birth Queen on the 19th, is about one mile
of the great Napoleon, the 15th of directly south of Gravelotte. The coun-
August, usually celebrated in Paris with try is broken and hilly, very charming,
impressive ceremonials, brought bright and full of scenic surprises. There
sunshine to the fields covered with are so many little villages through which
blackened and mangled corpses, and the next 1 Kittle was waged that the ac-
looked down upon the Emperor in swift tion of the Kith of August was called
retreat. Next day Steinmetz contented shortly after its occurrence by half-a-
himself with skirmishes, none of which dozen different names. The French
rose to the dignity of a battle. The care soldiers designated it either as Vionville
of the wounded, the burial of the dead, or Doncourt. Bazaine's telegram, in
and the repose of the fatigued army oc- which he said that he had fought the two
cupied most of the time. The King great German armies from Vionville to
visited the field early in the morning and Doncourt all day long, convinced the
personally superintended the removal of French that these were the proper names
many of the wounded. Then he wrote for the fight.
more despatches to his Queen. Bazaine's whole army was retreating
On the 15th the army of Friederich in remarkably good order, on Monday
Karl was march on the road which
in full morning, when the Marsha] heard that
furnished Bazaine his main avenue of Friederich Karl, advancing from Pont-a-
escape to Verdun. There are two roads Mousson, luul struck in on to the high-
from Metz to Verdun, here and there way, and placed himself in a strong posi-
tiou on Mars-la-Tour. Bazaine could a moment or two in imminent danger of

hardly believe that his enemy had made being taken prisoner, lint just then a
so rapid an advance, and continued cau- wave of Fiencli cavalry swept up, over-
tiously, an enemy behind, an enemy in whelming the Germans, and protecting
front, and an enemy ravaging the fair the cannon which they weie trying to
land to which he was endeavoring to retake. If Bazaine had perished on that
treat, lb.' was right. Friederich Karl day lie would have been accounted a
had not had time to gain this ground he ; hero.
had, however, sent forward the magnifi- The Germans were now massed with
cent division of Brandenburg cavalry to their right on Mars-La-Tour. They
Mars-la-Tour, to hold the great column had taken Vionville, and they next
of Dearly two hundred thousand nun in directed their attention to the village of
check until he could come up with his Flavigny. There took place one of the
main column. Bazaine saw the situa- sharpest combats of the war, the French
tion at once, and ordered an attack by batteries shelling the Prussians who were
divisions, — of 1 (ecaen's the Third corps, established in the woods near by, and
Ladmirault's the Seventh. Frossard's the killing them by hundreds. Much of the
Second, Canrobert's the Sixth, and the lighting was done in the large wheat-
fine Imperial Guard, the pride of France fields, and there the French drove back
and the flower of her soldiery. The the assaults time and time again. The
Brandenburgers held the furious French ripening grain was reddened with the
in partial check for more than six blood shed in the awful shock of cavalry,
hours, until Friederich Karl's Third and and in the slaughter effected by the
Tenth corps, successfully supported by mitrailleuse batteries. At the west of
divisions of the Eighth and Ninth, came the battle-field flows the river Orne, and
up. During this time the German cav- the many little brooks tributary to this
alry, according to the French authorities, river were red with blood before the
had been decimated; •almost
fairly struggle was finished.
blotted out," says one writer. But now Although the French showed pro-
came the fresh German troops into ac- digious valor on this day, and on the
tion, rushing out of the woods upon Vi- whole fought with consummate skill, it
onville, anil taking that village by storm. is clear that they were taken completely
In front of Rezonville General Bataille by surprise in the morning. One of the
had been wounded, and the Second corps, Generals, who was in the retreat, affirmed
after having bravely withstood the at- that very day that there was not a Prus-
tack, had bent back, and was probated sian on the whole line of march. When
in its retreat by the Third Lancers, and his divisionwas attacked the horses
by the Cuirassiers of the Guard. were picketed and unsaddled. Prince
During this movement there was a Murat, in command of the first brigade,
charge of Prussian Hussars upon some came out of liis tent, and went into action,
artillery with which Bazaine was trying with his napkin in bis hand. lie had
to cover the attack of the French cui- been breakfasting as tranquilly as if be
rassiers, and the Marshal and his general were at the Cafe Anglais. The decisive
staff were surrounded by the German and most formidable attack of the Ger-
troopers. Thine was a little hand-to- mans was towards the end of the day,
hand fighting, and the Marshal was for when fresh soldiers came up to grapple
with the exhausted French. General von when night fell upon the bloody field
Alvensleben took two regiments of a of Kezonville.

cavalry division, and gave them orders Next morning the troops were horri-
to take the French batteries, which were fied at the ghastly spectacle of the
causing such terrific losses in theGerman hundreds of corpses piled in fantastic
lines. These gallant troops swept down shapes, or here and there standing
bravely to the attack on the position, propped against each other, where a
passed through the French lines, and tremendous gap had been made in
went up on to a little height, which had an advancing line of battle. The Ger-
concealed from them one of the French mans had lost about seventeen thou-
divisions. Then they rushed at full sand men, and the French were not
speed along the wood of Vionville. This much better
off. The French claim
gave the French cavalry an excellent that they had only one hundred and
opportunity for attack and a brigade of
; twenty thousand men in the action, and
dragoons and the Seventh Cuirassiers that the Germans brought one hundred
hurled themselves down upon the Ger- and eighty thousand soldiers upon the
mans, who were stupefied by this sudden field.
move. Two squadrons of the Tenth Bazaine at this time appears to have
Cuirassiers came to harass the unlucky been more occupied with protecting his
Germans from the rear, and the rout was line of retreat upon Metz than in carv-
complete. Oddly enough the Seventh ing way forward to his junction
his
Prussian Cuirassiers had a terrible con- with MacMahon. He never, say the
flict with the Seventh French Cuirassiers soldiers who were in the fight, manoeu-
on this day. The Sixteenth regiment of vred as if he wished to get to Chalons.
Prussian infantry lost and at the
its flag, The army was intoxicated with success,
close of the action had but one hundred and cried out to be led forward but ;
and sixty men left out of three thousand. Bazaine paid no attention to their de-
On the right, towards the close of the mands.
day, the French had the whole advan- In these battles, as in all the others, the
tage. The Germans still maintained quartermaster's department was noticea-
their position in the centre. The Ninety- ble chiefly for its miserable incompe-
third French line was driven in by the tence. "On the 10th, in the morning,"
Prussian Cuirassiers. Its flag was taken, says a well known military writer,
and one piece cannon was being
of " the Second and the Sixth corps were
carried off when a detachment of French almost entirely without food. The First
cavalry swept down from the heights of was waiting for rations, which (he
Vionville, chased the Cuirassiers, took quartermaster's department was to send
back the flag of the Ninety-third, and from Metz, and had not a day's pro-
the cannon also. vision of biscuit. On the 17th an-
The day was finished with the last other corps had nothing but rice.
and magnificent charge of the Prussian There had been no forage since the
cavalry on the French right, which re- 14th for one of the cavalry regiments,
sisted manfully; and the French, who which had to make two charges with-
had been so unhappy in all their efforts out food for men or horses; and yet
up to these days of mid-August, could we were iu France, and only seven
justly claim that they were victors kilometres from a town like Metz,
21-2 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
supposed to be provisioned for a long mount the heights near Chatel and ;
siege." between that town and Amanvilliers the

The 17th was devoted, as the 15th slopes arc covered with trees, which
had been, to trifling skirmishes. King run in an unbroken line from Yiou-
William was (iii the Held, as at Borny, ville to Amanvilliers. Eastward, be-
soon after the fight, and addressed the hind these woods, lies Verneville, and
troops, expressing his admiration of between Verneville and Gravelotte ex-
their conduct. If Bazaiue considered tends another w 1. Mont St. Qnentin,
himself victorious, King the Prussian between Chatel and Metz, has a fort on
also claimed the King \Vil-
victory. its summit, and is covered by the forest
liam is supposed to have urged on the of Sauligny, which runs behind St. Privat
battle of the 18th, which was to he a to tile valley of the < >rne. Early in the
final effort to sweep Bazaine from all morning the Twelfth and Ninth corps of
the positions he had gained <m the the Royal German Guard went towards
high-road, send him back to Met/,, Doncourt, followed by the Third and
and make the way clear for the march Tenth corps, while the Seventh. Eighth,
of the Germans to join the Crown and Second remained at Rezonville. As
Prince. the first-mentioned corps went through
At the beginning of the battle on the the woods near Verneville and St. Privat
18th the French troops on the heights the last-mentioned attacked Bazaine's
of St. Privat and Ste. Marie-aux-Chenes tutrenchment near Gravelotte, keeping
received the same surprise as at Forbach up a mild attack until the others could
on the 16th. Whole brigades of Prus- come round by Chatel and Amanville.
sians suddenly emerged from the forests, The Ninth corps was in the battle before
which a few hours before the French had noon; the others did not enter before
known to be vacant. But Bazaine was four o'clock. The French held the woods
beginning to understand this manoeuvre, so long as they were not outnumbered,
and was ready to receive the enemy, and the Germans lost great numbers of
At eleven o'clock the lire opened from men among the trees. The slopes, even
both side.-, all along a very extensive on the 20th, were still covered with the
line. Gravelotte and Rezonville, where wounded, and the unburied dead began
Bazaine had strongly entrenched him- to smell. St. Privat and Verneville
self, were the scene of the' most saugui- were finally taken.
nary fighting. About noon the French The general composition of the Ger-
soldiers saw a black mass of Prussian man army was us follows: the left
infantry coming down from Gravelotte. wing was composed of the Twelfth Saxon
The artillery senl a, storm of shells into corps, the Centre guard, and the Ninth
these moving lines, and the slaughter army corps; behind these, in reserve,
was great. The loss of life in this en- was the Brandenburg corps, whose artil-
counter w as probably greater than in any lery came into the attack between Aman-
other battle of the century. TheFrench ville and St. Privat, and was attached to
soldiers had rapidly entrenched them- the Hesse-Darmstadt division, ami the
selves,and kept up a tremendous lire Schleswig-Holstein corps. The right
upon tin' advancing Germans. wing was on the right and left of the
The three great roads, which radiate main road leading from Mars-la-Tour
westward and northward from Metz, towards Metz, and consisted of the
3
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 2 1
Seventh Westphalia corps, under Stein- head of the attack. This corps finally
metz, and the Eighth, behind which the charged the position at the point of the
Second corps stood in reserve bayonet, and after a hard tight, protracted
The Prussian right first took up the until the combatants could scarcely see
fight at Gravelotte. Meantime the cen- v:\c\i other, Gravelotte was surrendered,
tre and left German armies swung to and the French back.
fell As the
a little
the right, and altered its front, previ- darkness stole over the land the cries of
ously north-east, to east. The Saxons thewounded, the crashing of the cannon,
attacked St. Privat ; the Guards Aman- the flames of the burning villages and
ville ; the Ninth corps the woods of Verne- farm-yards, and the long lines of troops
ville, afterwards taking the village of the moving silently, and almost stealthily, to
same name. At last, after the most strengthen the positions which they had
valorous fighting, during which the Prus- taken, formed a spectacle as dreadful as
sians were repeatedly driven back, the it was impressive. Marshal Bazaine was
French right was driven into the centre, not in this fight at all. No one knows
between Gravelotte and Verneville, and why he was not in it, for no one ever ac-
their back was threatened at Chatel. cused him of being a coward ; but he
Towards five o'clock in the afternoon was some distance from the scene of
at
the fatigued and almost broken French action, and seemed to take but little
soldiery were swept down upon by sixty interest in it. The aged King of Prussia
thousand fresh troops. Batteries were narrowly escaped annihilation by inimical
suddenly unmasked to sweep the ranks grenades twice during the fight, and his
of Canrobert's soldiers and the Royal
; whole staff was at one time in imminent
German corps and the Tenth Prussian danger. After the battle, in which he
corps swarmed upon the breach made in had seen one of his favorite regiments
the French ranks, which the Saxons were entirely cut to pieces, lie slept all night
menacing from the rear. This was the mi a hand ambulance wagon near a house
dread moment of the day. The French in Rezonville.
fought like demons. Here a battalion Whatever the French thought of their
of the Twenty-eighth line stood valiantly stubborn resistance the Prussians had
in the trendies and perished to the last succeeded in effecting their purpose.
man. General Canrobert, sword in Steinmetz had made his junction with
hand, was in the first rank, encouraging the forces of Friederich Karl. The road
and pushing on the soldiers. He kept seemed clear to Chalons, thence to Paris.
up this resistance for more than two Bazaine could not now retreat to Verdun.
hours. In the gathering dusk a severe He had inflicted terrible losses on the
attack was made on Gravelotte but the ; German armies, and his troops did not
French opened such a good lire that the seem a whit demoralized; but nearly all
ditches were tilled with the dead of the the positions they had held and desired
Second Prussian corps, which was at the to maintain were now in German hands.
—
l'1 1 EUROPE IN STORM A.\D CALM.
CII A PTKR T\V ENTY-THREE.
French and German Rumors. — The Jaumonl Quarries. —

Truth ahout this Incident. — The Wounded at
Frankfort. — Serving in an Extempore Sanitary Corps. —
Paris in Confusion. — The Spy Scare.
Dangerous I" Speak the Truth. — A new Ministry. — Comte De Palikao. — Jules Favre's Campaign
against the Falling Empire. — The Excited Crowds. — The Empire ends, as began, in blood. it
A
gaze
SERIES
spectacles
during
of splendid and historic
two months.
the
passed
next
before my
thousand men had crone down into these
quarries,
battle
and asserted
wagous of quicklime were thrown
that after the
The whole Gentian land was tilled with upon them and that Friederich Karl
;
rumors of revolution in Paris, rumors — was so affected by the terrible result of

as untrue at that particular time as the false manoeuvre of his cavalry that
they were prophetic of the honor and he was almost insane lor a day or two.
ruin which were to come. The German This story even got into the English
press, too, was filled with sensational papers; but it had no foundation what-
campaign around Met/..

tales of the brief ever. In truth the quarries of Jau-
The carnage was ten times magnified ; mont actually existed, but they were
hut one needed only to walk through far behind the French lines on the day
the streets of the great towns like of the attack on St. Hubert; and the
Frankfort, Darmstadt, Carlsruhe, May- whole story came front the great
ence, Cologne, and to see the women slaughter of Germans near another
clad in black and the houses tilled with quarry, on the left wing of the French
mourners, to realize that the shoek of army. General Zastrow, during the
battle had been attended with tremen- attack, had sent up by the highway
dous loss. three batteries of a reserve of the
In France the favorite pastime of Seventh army corps, escorted by the
the stay-at-home was the inven-
class Fourth Uhlan regiment, so as to pro-
tion of dreadful catastrophes which had tect his soldiers who were in full re-
befallen the Germans. The story of treat. A few minutes afterwards, men
the quarries of Jaumont was one of and horses, rushing away from the
these inventions. It was said, by the frightful carnage beyond, were crowded
French, that in the terrible fight which pell-mell into the narrow gorge through
took place around the St. Hubert farm which the road runs, and were riddled
Prince Friederich Karl had sent a with shot front the French sharpshoot-
number of squadrons of his best cavalry ers ambuscaded Genevieus forest.
in the
headlong into some deserted quarries, All those who had
bad luck to get
the
where horses anil men fell together to into this defile, which was scarcely
die in lingering torture. As there was twenty yards wide, were either swept
no occasion to lie exact in the statement down by the fusillade, or crowded over
of a loss which an implacable enemy into the quarries. The clearest ac-
had inflicted upon itself, the French counts of this affair indicate that only
accounts boldly declared that thirty thirty or forty horses, and perhaps
half a hundred men, were carried over there than I received a notice from the
the edge of the defile and perished police-office to appear at the railway-
below. station at a given hour, and to be pre-
The Germans were not one whit be- pared to serve with the citizens of the
hind the French in their inventive sanitary committee in care of the
powers and all the way down to Frank-
; wounded. This obligation was imposed
fort from the frontier I heard stories, upon all strangers staying more than
which, while not calculated to cast twenty-four hours in the town and at ;
doubt upon the valor of the French, the appointed time, therefore, I went to
were intended to show the unquestionable the great Main-Ncckar Station, where
superiority of the German soldier. I I received a red-cross badge, and was
was struck, however, with the singular stationed, as if I had been a German all
absence of animosity against the French my life, at a certain point to await an
in any of the remarks of the German incoming While I was observing
train.
soldiers. Now that the tide had turned, a number of French officers and a few
and that the return match was to be Zouaves, prisoners, who were gloomily
played, not only the military, but the smoking cigarettes in a cornel', a train
civil party, had taken on an air of dignity of fifty odd cars, mainly freight-wagons,
and seemed governed by a determination on the floors of which bountiful quanti-
to say nothing ill of its ancient enemies. ties of straw had been scattered, rolled
Besides, Germany was inspired by the into the station. In these cars lay in
knowledge that important political events bloody, and sometimes hardly distin-
were about to take place within her guishable, heaps, the wounded French
boundaries. The foundation of the and Prussians. The first few carriages
Empire ; the welding of the national life were filled with dangerously wounded
into one homogeneous mass out of the Frenchmen, ami, whether by accident or
union of inharmonious and petty States ; by design, [ was deputed to serve with
the triumphant vindication of the u isdom a surgeon in succoring these prisoners.
of Bismarck's policy of "blood anil In a group was one Turco, a Zouave, a,
iron ;
"
uprising of an Imperial
the captain who had lost his epaulettes and
which was to give the whole
authority, was stretched on the floor, and a lieuten-
German land new burdens, but at the ant who had been wounded three times,
same time new strength and perhaps and whose right arm was already swollen
new liberties, — all these things were to twice its natural size. The native
being pondered by the most intelligent courtesy of these unfortunate fellows
nation in Europe with that gravity which was admirably exemplified by their feeble
is so characteristic of it ; and there was etforts to rise when we entered the ear.
little rejoicing, — little, at least, that a I sat down by the captain, and when the
stranger could observe. surgeon had attended to his wound I
AtDarmstadt we found that the wrote his letters, and then we talked of
regular trains had begun their trips once the battle, — one of the many in front of
more but as each engine had to draw-
; Metz. One officer said that in all his
back sixty or seventy empty carriages, campaigns he had never seen such noble
which had gone off fdled with troops, treatment of prisoners.
we were twice the usual time in getting He was presently taken out of his
to Frankfort. I had no sooner arrived blood-stained bed of straw, and given
new garments, plenty of breakfast, and At Frankfort keen resentment was still
even clean linen. Surgeons and physi- felt, against Prussia, but there was no
cians were few, as the great mass of open expression of it. The excited
1 1 11 •
in uric at the front ; so the non-pro- crowds were kept carefully back, and
fessional civilians were compelled to when a wounded man was strapped and
trust to knowledge for

their own slight held down to have a festering or sup-
the binding of wounds. Must of the purating wound probed, he was cared for
prisoners were wounded twice, generally as tenderly as if he were a sou of Ger-
in the arm or leg; the majority of the many. Field-post cards were distributed,
Germans once only, either in the breast, and gratified the prisoners more than
the head, or the lower limbs. Among anything else. They were simply
the German troops were a number of pasteboard cards, with space for an
Bavarians, probably the boys whom we ordinary letter, and printed directions
had seen leaving Speyer, and many of how to send them. They were also
these were savagely wounded, as if they during the campaign freely distributed
had indulged in much hand-to-hand to the wounded on the field or in far-
fighting. The Bavarians are to the away hospitals in a hostile country. The
German race what the Yankees are to Prussian field post took them to the
the American, and have the same whim- army lines, and then they wen. passed on. 1
sical, picturesque way of talking. One In the carriages where Prussians and
little fellow, scarcely tall enough to be a French were crowded together the best
soldier, and with a childish face, had of feeling seemed to prevail, with one or
part of his right hand shot away. He two noteworthy exceptions. A Prussian
hailed me for succor, and, when 1 asked stalked up in front of a car filled with
him where he was hurt, said, "Nothing Zouaves, and showed them the bullet-
but a little scratch in the hand, and holer-, in his overcoat, they looking on
another in the lee-. But I made him sternly. Again, a blundering German
cold, the red-breeches, lie won't — do it surgeon cried out against treating the
again " Most of these Bavarians
! were enemy so well, lint no one could have
light-haired, blue-eyed boys, fresh and believed the (banians so emotional and
pure from the world, hut ferocious as excitable as this throng of civilians
tigers in battle. These boys had heard proved itself to be illThe Frankfort.
before leaving Bavaria that the Turcos spectacle of one stout Frenchman sup-
carried knives, and despatched the par- porting a poor Bavarian lad, who was
tially wounded with them. One whole shot through the lace, and was evidently
regiment, therefore, provided itself with fast sinking, brought forth a storm of
the short, Hat knives made in the moun- sobs from the ladies, and strong men
tains of Upper Bavaria. Their colonel shed tears. We had in our charge one
heard of this, and commanded them to Frenchman who hail been wounded three
leave tin cutlery behind, 1
whereupon they times, being shot OllCe through the body.

refused to march until they were threat- That he was alive at all was a miracle ;
ened with sharp punishment unless they but he persisted in being taken out of
immediately obeyed. the car and allowed to walk across to sit
In this railway station at Frankfort down in the fresh air. lie was sur-
Frenchmen generally received all along rounded hv a dozen Germans, who ran
the line better care than the Prussians. hither and yon to procure whatever he
needed, and tears ran down their faces God help me !

" In one street in Frank-
when he was put upon a stretcher and fort I saw-, at a very early hour in the
carried away to the hospital, the surgeon morning, a regiment of rather rustic-
declaring' that he could not last the day looking young men march in and ground
out. The Frenchman and German who arms. Th'e commanding officer, passing
had lain on the wet earth together all down the line on a tour of inspection,
night, with the voice of thewind and the was dissatisfied with the appearance of
rain, and the shrieks of dying men, pro- some of the troops, and. stepping up
claiming to them the necessity of peace briskly to the offenders, he gave them
and good-will, shook hands as they sharp blows over the head and face,
parted to go to different hospitals in to which they submitted with the lamb-
Frankfort. The spectacle was impres- like placidity of men who could not help
sive and suggestive. themselves. To this beating and thrash-
" Voyt z-vous !" said one French officer ing in the German army soon became I
to me, " these Prussians lire at very accustomed, seeing plenty of it during
short range. They
keep advancing, thi' long period of the siege. 1 remeinl >er,
though it seems certain death, and yet on the day of the capitulation of the
they always aim deliberately. They forts around Paris, being struck with the
have lost double the killed that we have, peculiar brutality of one fat officer, who,
but there are not so many badly wounded reviewing a line of troops on a hilly
Germans as French. The Bavarians street in Ecouen, caned and struck the
clubbed their muskets, — the rascals! — erring ones so vigorously that I wondered
and they were as bad as our Turcos to beat they did not step out of the ranks and
off." There was a tragedy in epitome riddle him with bullets. But it was pre-
in one of the railway carriages, where :i cisely this quality of passive obedience
talland handsome Hanoverian officer, and endurance, of submission to punish-
who was accused —

I know not whether ment for the smallest infringement of
rightly or wrongly — of having given inwhich made the German army so
detail,
telligence to the enemy, was being taken dangerous and powerful an instrument
under guard to Berlin, where, if the ac- of invasion.
cusation were proved against him, I the women were busily
In the fields
dare say his stay upon earth was very at The few men who had not
work.
short. beeu summoned across the frontier were
When the wounded were all cared for. miles away with cattle and forage teams
and tin' train backed out of the
had providing for the army. Most of the
station, I, with the other civilians, was peasants in the sections through which
relieved from service, being dismissed in the armies had passed had received ten
half-military fashion. Next day I con- or fifteen soldiers nightly lor a period of
tinued my return journey to France. two weeks. The compensation for bil-
The drain of the gigantic mobilization leting is very small, and the effect on
was beginning to tell upon the country. the poor people in the little dorl's must
There were but few horses in the streets. be quite ruinous, although they never
I shall not soon forget the droll mixture complained. Each soldier on the march
of pathos and humor with which one old received every day half a pound of meat,
gentleman told me, " My two sons and such vegetables as could conveniently
my two best horses are now in France. be got, bread, black coffee, a little
brandy, and some cigars, — always ci- and soon were bivouacked on a plain
cars. The "tobacco cars." after the beside the station as tranquilly as if they
capitulation of Strasbourg, ran regularly bad been there a week. While the battle
from towns beyond the Rhine up to
tin' of Woerth was at, its height fresh regi-
La^ny, the point from which supplies ments were being brought up and landed
were forwarded to the vast mass of with wonderful quickness elose to the
troops composing the three lines stretch- scene of action. The Germans are
ing around Paris. In the Held the fur- justly proud of their railway system, so
nishing of provisions is organized by admirably and adroitly planned for

battalions. Each company has its concentrating the nation on any frontier
cooks, who follow it everywhere, pro- which is menaced. The French under
viding their larder in the adjacent cities the Empire had begun a system radiat-
or villages or by force or requisition in ing from Chalons towards the frontier,
the enemy's country. Anything classa- and which, so tar as it went, was as good
hie as luxury the soldier must procure as that of Germany. But when it was
of his company's cooks, paying cash in well under way, the corruption and
all cases. Tobacco was never classed as negligence of the governing powers in-
a luxury. The French were amazed fected the military administration, and
that the Germans ordered it for officers the system was never completed.
ami men by requisition and this small ; From Frankfort. I returned, via Co-
exaction incensed them more, I have logne and Brussels, to Paris, where
sometimes thought, than the payment of everything was in wild confusion. Every
the five milliards. In bivouac each sol- second man met upon the street or in
dier usually cooks his own supper, — if the shops or restaurants was in uniform.
there is time for any cooking at all, — and Every stranger was supposed to be a
I have often seen rows of little ti replaces spy. The French, ordinarily, in outward
dii« in I he banks extending lor twoor three manifestation at least, the most courteous
miles along the road. The cavalry-men and obliging of European peoples to
carry strapped behind their saddles rolls foreigners, had suddenly become infected
of coarse bread, which both they and with suspicion. At the first this was
their horses eat. When a long halt is amusing, but presently it became in-
made, thousands of cavalry-men will be tolerable. It was dangerous to tell
seen cutting bits of bread and feeding French friends or acquaintances the
the horses. truth. They received the news of the
The most miraculous feature of the battle of Woerth and the retreat there-
German military discipline which I ob- from with a scepticism which was
served during the mobilization was the painful to witness. Although the news
celerity with troops, and espe
which from their own agents confirmed the
cially disembarked from
cavalry, were truth, they still maintained that it was
railway trains. At Landau we saw a from German sources. An occasional
regiment of cavalry, which had jour- stragglingtelegram from the Emperor
neved fifty-five hours steadily from was published broadcast in large and
Posen, cleared from the train in eleven little journals; but it was noticed that
minutes. It was as if by magic. The none of these despatches talked of
moment the carriages stopped, men and victory. •• Disorder in Paris," said a.
horses came out with automatic precision circular published early in August,
" would be victory for the Prussians." thirty and forty, and convoking the
The fear of a Communistic outbreak Senate and the Corps Legislatif. After
was already plainly defined, and with this, Minister Ollivier thought fit to
reason. Night after night tumultuous issue a proclamation announcing that
crowds went to the ministries to sing the the arming of the nation and the defense
"Marseillaise" and the " Girondins," of Paris were being prepared in great
and to ask for news. Now they heard haste. The minister added that all
of the taking of* Landau, now of the those who were anxious have to
total defeat of the Prussians, and now weapons had only to present themselves
of a vigorous French advance to the at the Bureau of Enlistment, and they
Rhine. But, as a Frenchman of dis- would at once be sent to the frontier.
tinction has confessed, at first no one The Corps Ligislatif met on the 9th
was willing to believe these rumors. A of August, and M. Schneider, the presi-
kind of secret presentiment restrained dent, had begun to read the decree of
even the most confident ; but after a convocation, as this was an extraordi-
time they were carried away on the top nary session, and had just finished these
of popular enthusiasm. Then came the words: "Napoleon, by the Grace of
first news of the defeat, brought by God and by the National Will, Emperor
foreigners returning, like myself, from of the French," —
when a prolonged and
Germany, or by letters which escaped singular cry burst forth from the whole
with difficulty from the clutches of the assemblage of legislators. It was as if
ollicers of the Black Cabinet, as the the nation, by the voice of its represen-
Imperial Inspection Bureau of the post- tatives, suddenly protested against the
office was called. The Emperor with absurdity of this statement as to the
his broken phrases — "Everything may menus of Napoleon's selection to his
be right yet;" " The enemy has ceased position of Emperor. M. Schneider,
pursuit;" "The night was calm;" who was a man of great dignity, was so
" The river was in good order," began — much astonished and so indignant that
to annoy and worry the capricious he crossed his arms over his breast and
Parisians. At the first news of the stood looking for some time defiantly at
defeat, the Empress had returned from the assembly. Presently he finished the
St. Cloud, where she had been sum- reading of the decree ; but it was noticed
mering, directly to Paris, and assembled that, he omitted, as if he were very much
the Council of Ministers, and sent forth disinclined to give it forth, the reading
a proclamation which she signed as the of the name of the Empress, signed at
Empress Regent. Although this docu- the bottom of the document. Minister
ment was extremely clever, it displeased Ollivier next tried to make a speech ; but
everybody. This foreign woman, who the Republican Opposition was in force
spoke with such lightness of the flag of that day, and interrupted him with such
France, became obnoxious.
suddenly violence, and clamored so for his imme-
The ladies who would have fallen at her diate disappearance from the ministry,
feet a few weeks before now criticised that he stammered and blundered, and,
her openly and boldly. Then came new in his trouble, spoke of an army of four
decrees placing Paris in a state of siege, hundred and fifty millions of soldiers,
incorporating into the National Guard when he meant four hundred and fifty
all valid citizens between the age of thousand. He continued speakiug, al-
though shouts of: "Less talk and the Chamber voted a law calling under
more action;" "We have no more the flag in the active army all valid citi-
" " you alone zens between twenty and thirty-live
confldence in you ; It is
who have lost the country," — almost years of age, and increasing from four
drowned his voice, which was trembling to twenty-five millions of francs the
with mingled fear and indignation, credit which had been accorded by the
.lules Favre succeeded the unfortunate law of July 24th to families of soldiers
minister in the tribune, and made one of the regular army, and of the Mobile
of his most eloquent speeches, finishing Guard. General Count De Palikao,
witli offering a resolution for the ira- whose most brilliant exploit had been
mediate organization of the National the sacking of the summer palace at
Guard, and the distribution of arms to Pekin, became the new chief of the
every inhabitant of Paris who demanded ministry, which was still Imperialistic
it lor the defense of his hearth-stone, in flavor. M. De Palikao has been very
This was a terrible measure for the well described by a brilliant French
Empire, since the' possession of weapons dramatic who wrote an excellent
critic,
in the people's hands meant the over- book on the siege, M. Francisque Sarcey,
turning of the Imperial dynasty. Pres- in the following words "The Count De :
ident Schneider protested feebly, that Palikao was a wily old gentleman, who
the resolution was unconstitutional in its bad no trouble in making us all dupes,
character, when a voice in a corner was He had noticed the bad effects that the
heard. " We are not considering the boasting and lying remarks of the fallen
constitution; we are talking about sav- ministry had produced, so he adopted
ing the country." just the opposite method. He gave no
The
Ollivier ministry, which had been news at. all of the military operations,
built upon lying promises, and was the Every day. after the session, he took
work of incompetent bands, crumbled to aside two or three of his familiars, and
pieces at this session. A cruel Order of mysteriously whispered in their ears
the Day thus worded "The Chamber, — these enigmatic words: 'If Paris knew
decided to sustain a. cabinet capable of what I know, it would illuminate this
organizing the defense of the country, evening.' Or, when a member of the
passes to the Order of the Day" — was Left, impatient at. his silence, asked of
adopted great majority; ami M.
by a the Chamber some more positive infor-
Ollivier wenl home feeling that, hi' had mation, he would answer, ' I can say
lived in vain. Ample proof of his un- nothing, except that everything is going
popularity was given a few minutes on well. I can speak no longer to-day.
afterwards, when M. Jules Simon was I have had a bullet in my chest for
passing through the Place de la Con- twenty years, and prevents me from
it.
corde. Returning home from the session making long speeches.' " In thisephem-
bis carriage was stopped, and the crowds eral ministry, which was destined to
clamored for news. " Citizens," said disappear in the great, glad, and pacific
M. Simon. •' I should like to have much tumult of a few days later, M. Clement
good news to give you. but I have only Duvernois, a journalist of some distinc-
one bit, —
the Ollivier ministry exists no tion. who had been won over to the
longer." A great shout of joy went up Empire, and who had been paid enor-
from the waiting crowds. Next day, nions sums, as the Imperial documents
at the Tuileries afterwards showed, declared that he had been sent by his
for writing up the Empire in his journal, government to secure the plans of for-
was minister of agriculture. Baron tresses and the preparations of defense
Jerome David, devoted to the Empire, in the south of France, and, a mo-
and a determined enemy of liberty in all ment before he was shot, he slowly
its forms, was in a prominent post and ; pronounced the words, Ll Fur Vater-
the ministry of Foreign Affairs was held land."
by the Prince de la Tour d'Auvergne. Meantime scattered and imperfect
But the populace cared for nothing hut news of the gigantic battles around
the ministry of war, and poor Count De Metz came into the capital lint it was ;
Palikao led a sad life until lie was dis- so indisputably true that the French had
missed out of public notice by the decla- in the majority of these encounters held
ration of the Republic. theirown bravely and inflicted tremen-
The first definite outcropping' of the dous losses on the enemy that these
Commune was in mid-August, when an later reports were not considered dis-
energetic attack was made on some couraging. The Parisians of all classes
firemen's barracks on the Boulevard de lived in constant expectation of a de-
la Villette ; and the insurgents were spatch which should announce the crush-
almost successful in getting possession ing of the Prussian invaders between
of some rifles, but, failing in this, re- two great French armies and the close
treated upon Belleville, calling the citi- of the campaign in the hasty retreat of
zens all Oddly
along the roads to arms. the Germans across the frontier which
enough they were mistaken for Prus- they had violated. M. de Girardin
sians, for the women and children of the wrote in his journal about conducting
Belleville quarter were firmly persuaded the Germans back to the Rhine with the
that the Germans were close at hand, blows of musket-butts on their backs.
the moment they saw guns and pistols The only man who seemed to have a
and signs of fighting. In this foolish, clear and definite notion of tin- situation,
almost criminal effort to provoke civil and to have the courage to speak the
war the veteran revolutionist Blanqui, truth about it at all times, was the aged
who had spent the greater part of his M.Thiers. He became a member of the
life in prison, was implicated. The chief Committee of Defense, on the L'Tth of
actors in this little insurrection were August. I sometimes think that he
court-martialled, and six of them were had private sources of information,
sentenced to be shot ; most of the others which he did not avow, for he was cer-
to different terms of imprisonment. tainly better informed than nine-tenths
Michelet and George Sand both protested of the politicians who surrounded him.
against the execution. During the sec- When the question of sending MacMahon
ond week in August, the Parisians with his army of Chalons into the north-
managed to catch a veritable Prussian east was discussed, he spoke out ear-
spy. alter having arrested innumerable nestly against it. " This," he said. " is
foreigners in their search for spies ; and taking our last army and sending it to
this officer was shot
one of the court-
in perish in the Ardennes. You have got
yards of the Military School on the one marshal blockaded," he told them ;
—
Champ de Mars on the 27th of August, " you will soon have two."
at six o'clock in the morning. He boldly The discussion as to the movements
•222 EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM.
of the armies in the field was renewed Paris. A thrill was

of excited suspense
with much violence for several days after visibleon Everybody bought
all sides.
this debate of the "27th; and M.Thiers papers, papers, papers, and read the
lias left it on record that, while he was flaming editorials, printed in huge letters,
making an energetic speech about one with a line and a half to each paragraph,
o'clock on the morning of Saturday, the until they were tired. The theatres were
3d of September, M. Jerome David took deserted, despite Madame Agar's attrac-
liini by the hand and whispered in his five rendering of the •• Marseillaise."
car, • M. Thiers, do not go any farther Even the Theatre Francais had but, a
at present. would like to speak with
I slight, audience. The environs of the
you a moment." The session of the Corps Ldgislatif were crowded with news-
Council «as at once brought to a close, hungry people. Mi Saturday, about
*
and M. David and M. Thiers stepped noon, numerous processions of workmen,

down into the street together, when the moving quietly, were observed with
former said, " The Emperor is a pris- some apprehension. But these people
oner; MacMahon is mortally wounded." explained that they were organizing
M. Thiers stood quite still for a few min- themselves into military companies for
utes, struck with consternation, and the defence of the city. Now and then
quite stupefied ; but he could, without a man was heard violently declaiming
fear of reproach, truly have said, " I against government because it had
the
could have told you that this would hap- not given the people guns. " Here are
pen." eight hundred thousand men in Paris,"
In the morning a Council of Minis- said one speaker, 'native to the soil,
ters was held at the Tuilerics, and a. strong-armed, intensely patriotic, asking
despatch, coining through the Ilavas for guns to drive the invaders from the
Agency, brought the news from Brussels ;
doors, and the government snys, -You
"
but it was carefully kept from the people, must fold your arms and be shot down.'
There was a not her session at live o'clock, Late in the afternoon, the terrible news
and then the Empress, who had refused began to be known. First came a report,
up to that time to believe the unlucky which ran through the cafes and along
truth, herself laid before the minister the the boulevards like a flash of lightning,
despatch of the Emperor, saying, "The that Belgian neutrality had been vio-
army has capitulated, and I am a pris- lated, that French and Prussians had
oner." All this time, the populace was fought on Belgian soil, and that new
rejoicing at the Stock Exchange over complications were likely to arise.
telegrams ai uncing that the French Presently, pale-faced messengers be-
arniv had gained another advantage upon gan to ani\e from the Place de la Con-
the enemy; but the popular sentiment corde at the great universal rendezvous
was remark made to me on
reflected in a of the Parisian loafers of distinction, the
that morning by a Parisian, who said, section between the Cafe de la Pais and
with a bitter smile. " If we gain such the Cafe Piehe, announcing that, the
meat victories, why don't the generals Corps Ldgislatif were going into secret
send a few prisoners to the capital?" session: that the whole of MacMahon's
This was Saturday. On Friday evening, army had been taken; that he himself
as I walked through tin' city, T felt that, had been shot through the body; that
some gnat calamity was overwhelming General Dc Wimpffen had disgracefully
capitulated ; and, Anally, that the Em- appears, overwhelmed by numbers,

peror was a prisoner. ami some few of our soldiers have been
Meantime the Empress had sent M. crowded over into the Belgian ter-
Merimee, a literary man of infinite ritory."This effrontery was speedily
talent, and who was her intimate friend, unmasked by Jules Favre, who said that
to supplicate M. Thiers
to take the government
into his hands. As M.
Merimee did notsucceed,
she sent in M. de Metter-
nich ; but he had no bet-
ter hick with the fiery
old man, whose diminu-
tive figure was now be-
ginning to assume the
importance it deserved in
the eyes of his disorgan-

ized countrymen. MM.
Jules Simon, Jules Favre,
Picard, and others urged
M. Thiers to accept the
E in p re ss's proposition
when he came down to
the session of the Corps
Ligislatif on the 3d. Hut
M. Thiers was deaf to all
entreaties,and seemed
to be beyond
looking
with prophetic gaze to
greater events, for which
he wished to save all his
stock of strength. At
the session, the Count De
Palikao astonished all his THE END OF THE EMPIRE.
colleagues by the refresh- ASSAULT BY POLICE ON
CITIZENS IN THE BOULE-
ingly cool manner in
VARD BONINTROUVELLE.
which he climbed into the
tribune, and announced
that Marshal Bazaine, after a vigorous fight the time had come to know where the
of eight or nine hours, had been obliged government was. " Where," he said,
to retreat under the walls of Metz. lie '• is the Emperor? Is he in commu-
added, as if it had been a matter of nication with his Can he

ministers?
triflingconsequence, that there had been The minister of
give orders to them?"
a battle at Sedan, " and we have thrown war answered "No." "Then," said
a part of the Prussian army into the Jules Favre with his finest irony, " the
river Mouse ; but finally we were, it answer that the Minister of War has
224 EUROPE l.\ STORM AND CALM.
given me suffices, ami we may leave mediate consideration for the following
this great question out of the debate, motion :
—
the government having ceased to exist."
Here the president of the assembly " Article 1. Louis Napoleon Bonaparte
'
thought it his duty to protest against ami his dynasty are declared divested of the
Fa vie powers that the Constitution had conferred upon
such words, whereupon Jules
tin in.
turned upon him like a lion, and said: •' •
Article 2. There shall lie named by
" Protest as much as you wish, Mr. the Corps Legislatif a government committee
President. Protest against fate, which composed of a certain number of members
has betrayed us; deny events; say that taken from the majority, who shall lie invested
we arc victors; do as you like; hut with the powers to govern, anil who shall have
for their express mission resistance to the
what we want now, and what is indis-
uttermost to the invaders, ami the delivery of
pensable ami wise, is the effacing of all
the territory out of the enemy's hands.
parties before one name representing "'Article 3. General Trochu is main-
Paris, a military name, the name of a tained in his post as Governor-General of the
"
man who can take in hand the defense city of Paris. '
of the country." These remarks pro-

duced great agitation, and shortly This motion, signed by till the members
afterwards the session broke up, after of the Republican Opposition, was at
having voted a night sitting. first received in profound silence but ;
It was one o'clock in the morning when M. Favre, before he left the tribune,
tin- deputies met again. Outside the recommended the deputies to sleep over
palace of the Corps Lirjislatif, thousands it,and " to-morrow," he said. •• at noon,
upon thousands of men and women were we shall have the honor to give you the
waiting. — waiting for they knew not imperious reasons which appear to us to
what, too anxious, lest the next few recommend the adoption of the meas-
hours might bring the horrors of civil ure to every u 1 patriot." The night
war, for it was no secret that Blanqui, session had lasted just twenty minutes.
Delescluze, Felix Pyat, Vermorel, Mil- "It seemed," said one of the men who
life re, and others, who were destined to was present, " as long as a century."
be so famous or infamous in the Insur- A singular thing happened on this
rection of 1871, were hard at work trying morning of the -1th of September: as
to organize a. popular revolt. Without Jules Favre was going home, the crowd
any preliminary rhetoric, the Minister followed him, shouting out insults for the
of War made an official announcement fallen Empire, and clamoring for the
to the deputies of the capitulation of declaration of the downfall of the dy-
the army, and I lie fact Emperor
that the nasty. When Jules Favre had passed
Ian! delivered himself up as prisoner. along, the crowd remained shouting, dis-
Without making
any suggestion or cussing, singing, ami quarrelling, until
apology he stepped down from the the police thought it necessary to clear
tribune and took his seat. Jules Favre the people away from the Pont de la
immediately arose, and, taking the place Concorde. This provoked the people,
left vacant by the Minister of War, asked who were already in a stale of tremen-
permission to make a proposition. As dous excitement ; there was some rough
soon as he had received permission, he handling of the police agents ; an alarm
said, • We ask of the Chamber im- was sounded ; the gates of the Tuileries,
the Place du Carrousel, and the Louvre people, sword and club in hand. There
were closed the troops were confined to
; were numerous victims.
barracks ; the agitation reached the " The Empire," said one of the eye-
grand and opposite the
boulevards, witnesses of this affair near the Gyrn-
Gyrnnase Theatre, a squad of police, nase, "was destined to finish as it had
who evidently thought they were to be begun, — with an attack upon an un-
attacked, discharged their revolvers into armed mass."
a dense crowd, and then fell upon the
226 EUllOl'E IN STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER TWENTY-FOUR.
The Declaration of the Republic. — Exciting Scenes on the Place de la Concorde and the Boulevards. — In-
vasion of the Corps Ltgislatif. — ( lambetta Pronounces the Downfall of the Imperial Family. — The
Procession to the Hotel de Yille. — The Flight of the Empress.
SATURDAY night was an anxious mentioned hundreds of times during :,
time for the members of the Repub- walk through these excited crowds on
lican Opposition in the Corps Ldgislatif. the Saturday evening in question. Singu-
They saw that they were to lie
plainly larly enough no one seemed to know
left alone to build up a government on where Pietri was. Some said lie was
the ruins into which the Empire had sud- with the Empress at the Tuileries ; others
denly crumbled, and they dreaded lest that lie was arrested with Napoleon at
some sudden excitement, some misunder- Sedan, and that the German government
standing, should bring about civil war was to give him the worst fate that could
and anarchy, which the disciples of the befall him, — delivery into the hands of
repressive theory had predicted as certain those whom he had so long persecuted.
the moment that the weights were re- Foreigners were not much to the taste of
moved. As you cannot touch pitch these crowds, and Americans and Eng-
without being defiled, so the Republi- lishmen sometimes found themselves
cans of ardent convictions and linn surrounded by mobs, who insisted on
by the very necessity of neigh-
principles, hearing them sing a bar of the " Mar-
borhood dining the long period of the sellaise," and shout for the Republic.
Empire, had become in some measure In case, they refused to give these proofs
infected with the Imperial notions of of their good-will, they were hustled and
'• order," and they were almost inclined sometimes carried off to the police sta-
to distrust themselves at the moment tions as presumed spies. Many people

that power was to be placed in their in these throngs had guns, and some
hands. were armed with revolvers. This wear-
Nothing dreadful, however, happened ing of weapons by people who would
during Saturday night. Policemen were have considered such a proceeding as
hustled and bonneted, and some of them improper had they been living under a
might have been thrown into the Seine different system was adopted as the
had they not, in obedience to the dicta- first symptom
of liberation from the
tion of the crowds, thrown away their rigime which had now been definitely
rapiers and tied to their homes to get rid condemned, and was soon to be suc-
of their hated uniforms as soon as ceeded by a more liberal one.
possible. Pietri, the Imperial Prefect The Empire, which had made so many
of Police, who was almost universally objections to letting private citizens bear
execrated, was loudly called for by the arms or keep them in their houses, had
masses, ami, had he been imprudent in 1868 done the very thing which ren-
enough to show himself, might have dered the insurrection of 1.S71 so easy.
been torn to pieces. I heard his name It had created the National Guard Mo-
bile, which was about five hundred and the capital. There were comprised with-
fifly thousand strong, divided into bat- in the limits of this organization all
talions, companies, and batteries. This classes of society, — the rich shop-keeper
force was created by Napoleon III. on and professional men of the Rue de
the proposition of Marshal Niel, who laPais and the Opera Quarter, the. house
was then Minister of War, and in virtue owners and the retired merchants of the
TILE IMPERIAL POLICE PROTECTED BY TILE REPUBLICAN GUARD.
of a law voted by the Corps Ldgislatif Place Venddme and the Champs Elysees,
on the 1st of February, 1868. The as well as the half-educated and am-
maximum effective of each battalion of bitious of Belleville and La
artisans
this National Guard was two thousand Villette.These elements, hostile to each
men, forming eight companies of two other, —
the same elements, which by their
hundred and fifty men each, at the time inharmonious clashing in previous periods
of the downfall of the Empire and for
; of trouble had caused bloodshed and
nearly the whole of the period of the temporary anarch}', —
were to be cooped
siege of Paris and the Commune, almost up in a besieged city for long months,
three hundred thousand men of this Na- their really splendid forces never to be
tional Guard were within the walls of utilized against the enemy because their
;
228 EUROPE IX STORM AND f.\LM.
commander feared that if they won a would he civil war before nightfall. To
battle against the Germans they would walk through these collections of chatter-
turn about and proclaim a government of ing, gesticulating, pale-faced people, and
their own in Paris. It is not astonishing to hear them furiously disputing each
that these classes, hating, almost abomi- other's notions, enabled one to place
nating eaeh other, finding themselves but moderate reliance upon their com-
equally well armed, and having had their bined action, if such action were nec-
senses excited by the continuous specta- essary. The enemy was at the door
cle of the ravages of war, should have Mont Valerien was insufficiently armed ;
come together in hostile collision after General Vinoy was coining to Paris
the great struggle against the enemy was with an army which must be taken care
over,and while the wreckage of the war of; the cartridges in the Imperial arse-
was being cleared away. nals were tilled with sand : what was
Representatives of the upper and of to be done? Would the movement for
the lower classes of Parisian society, a Republic degenerate into mere noise,
equipped in their uniforms of the Na- and bloodshed, and stupid efferves-
tional Guard, and with their muskets on cence of ignorant enthusiasm? A little
their backs, were very numerous among before noon, on this lth of September,
the crowds on Saturday night. The the papers made the announcement of
property-holding class was on the alert, the Emperor's surrender, very generally,
and had taken possession of all the ap- and nearly every man and woman whom
proaches to the Corps Legislatif, and one met on the boulevards or on the Place
managed to keep its ground on Sunday de la Concorde had purchased a paper,
morning, although M. Jules Simon tells and was leading it intently. There was
us that when lie came to pick his way no laughter, but little noise, and no
through the throng waiting in front of jostling. The crowds grew in numbers
the Palais Bourb at eleven o'clock on momentarily. Every one was in an at-
the morning of the -lth of September, the titude of suspense, to which was added a
adherents of Planqui and Delescluze, the cei tain fear, the fear of that spectre
Communists, in short, were very thick which had arisen so many times with
about the gates and door-ways. In the bloody hands to push back that liberty,
eyes of these passionate and vindictive so longed for, lint seemingly so unat-
apostles of a socialistic government, the tainable in France.
members of the Left, who were very pop- Jules Simon says that at noon on the
ular among all other classes, were con- 4th of September a single misunder-
demned as •• Moderates," and as men to standing, an angry movement on the
be despised. Many an artisan, who part of a commander of any troops,
afterwards appeared behind the barri- would have been sufficient to occasion
cades of the Commune, hurled scornful a general massacre. " What we had to
reproaches at Simon and his colleagues avoid at any price," he says, " was
as they made their way into the mid-day civil war, the people of France against
session. the French, while the soil was in-

The impression on the grand boule- vaded by the stranger. This was the
vards, which were blocked withimmense opinion of the Left, who, felt that
throngs of the wealthy and prosperous the throne had tumbled to pieces; and
class on Sunday morning, was that there it was also the opinion of the majority,
who understood that the throne could Strasbourg, in the Place de la Concorde,
no longer be defended, and who had and crown the rather gloomy ligure
ceased to wish that it might. It was which personates the ravished city with
doubtless this thought, that there was laurel. This was the origin of the cus-
no longer any Empire, and that the tom which has since been so religiously
supreme duty was to avoid a collision, maintained — that of decorating with
which tempted the deputies of the ma- wreaths and immortelles, with flags, and
jority to demand that the regular troops with crowns of laurel, this statue year by
should be removed from the Palais year.
Bourbon." Along the great Place the rumor
This measure having been executed, ran that the Corps Ligidatif was to
the National Guard was placed in pos- receive the abdication of theEmpress at
session. The officers and soldiers of one o'clock. " Why," said a huge mar-
the regular troops were in a delicate ket-woman, dressed in her best, and
position. They had heard that the lie- with an umbrella which was large enough
public had already been proclaimed at to cover a dozen people, " why should
Lyons and Marseilles, and that there the the woman abdicate when we have abdi-
"
army had fraternized with the people, cated her?
but they were still under the shadow of Every half hour or so the crowd surged
their oath of allegiance to the Empire, back from side to side, leaving a path
and, ignorantof the real course of events clear for regiments just coming in from
beyond the walls of Paris, they were in- Lyons, or Turcos, newly arrived from
capable of forming a speedy decision. Algeria, — men who had been hurried up
-
Still, at Napoleon Barracks, the

the to be thrown against the Prussians, and
crowd which had cried out u Yive hi B4- who were destined ingloriously to remain
publique!" to die soldiers at the win- inside of Palis or just outside its walls
dows was answered by the same words. for Towards one
months thereafter.
A little later on, a regiment which had o'clock, ten thousand men from the
been sent to the square of the Hotel de Faubourg St. Martin came down the
Ville disbanded, tinned the butts of its grand boulevards, each man with a gun
muskets into the air, and mingled with on bis shoulder, and the shop-keepers
the crowd. This was soon heard on the immediately began to put up their shut-
Place de la Concorde, and hundreds of ters. Inside, in the great court-yard of
soldiers broke ranks and disappeared tle j
Palais Bourbon, the members of
right and left. the Opposition and of the majority stood
Now came in long procession thou- trembling with excitement, while Jules
sands of workmen and workwomen Favre, with his long black hair thrown
from La Villette, the women marching back, and his brows covered with per-
arm-in-arm with the men, singing loudly, spiration, made a tremendous radical
and generally carrying a flag in one speech, intended to ingratiate the blue
hand. Tricolored badges began to ap- and white Moused men swarming up to his
pear, and were sold by thousands, the extemporized platform, which they at
boldest putting them on at once, others last broke down. The Deputies were
carrying them in their hands, as if wait- informed that at least one hundred and
ing for a decisive moment. I saw a fifty thousand men were assembled on
young man climb on to the statue of the Place de la Concorde ; that full-v
230 EUROTE IX STORM AND CALM
one-fourth of them were armed ; that and, after a speech of Jules Favre, M.
the faubourgs were out; that blood Thiers offered his project of law, which
was up; that the people had come was, " that, in view of the present circum-
to claim its own peaceably, <>r with stances, the Chamber shall name a com-
clamor and bloodshed, as they might mission for government and national
decide. defense, and the constitutional assem-

In the great Salle des Pas Perdus, bly shall be convoked as soon as events
Jules Favre towered up above the other will permit."
deputies, who were inspired to calmness Itwas at this moment that Gambetta,
by the serenity of his face. It was ob- who had not played very conspicuous
a,
served that many members of the late part in the proceedings of the last few
triumphant and Imperial Right were days, appeared upon the scene, and in a
missing. Many had tied under various vigorous speech insisted that the Cham-
pretexts; some, that they had gone to ber should decide upon M. Thiers's prop-
learn the real facts of the affair at osition forthwith. He took into his
Sedan, others, to look after their prop- hands the business of the day. As the
erty, which was in danger, as it lay on result of his speech the Chamber voted
the line of theGerman army's march. urgency on the propositions, and sent
But few of them had, like the members them before a committee. Meantime
of the Senate, the courage to disappear the session was suspended. It is prob-
without any bravado. By-aud-by the able that on this Committee of National
doors of the legislative hall were thrown Defense certain members of the old
open, and the Left entered tranquilly in a Imperial party would have been placed,
body, with Father Raspail blowing his if, while the proposition was under con-
nose very like a sonorous trumpet of de- sideration, the crowd had not stepped iu
fiance. The session was opened shortly and given the final tumble to the card-
after one o'clock, and M. De Palikao, house of the Empire.
with his usual coolness, stepped briskly The manifestation which ended in the
into and proposed that a

the tribune, invasion of the Coiys lAgislalif was be-
council of government of National De- gun by company of National Guards,
a.
fense should be constituted, consisting who were standing near the iron railing
of live members, each member being in front of the palace, and who cried out
named by an absolute majority of the •• /,!/

Dicliiance! Ln DMieance!" or the
Corps L4gislatif; that the ministers impeachment of the Imperial family.
should named under the auspices of

lie While they were shouting, they beckoned
the members of this Council and that ;
to other National Guards nearer the
General Count De Palikao should be bridge over the Seine at this point to
the Lieutenant-general of the Councils. come and join them. The Municipal
The tempest which this piece of ef- cavalry, which were posted at the en-
frontery raised is I letter imagined than trance of the bridge on the quay, drew
described. The uproarious and con- its and for a moment there was
sabres,
temptuous laughter with which De Pali- danger of a sanguinary collision. But

kao's project was finally greeted must tiie battalions of the National Guard
have convinced him that it would he in- kept crowding on and on, without re-
judicious to press it. The Left, took gard for the naked sabres, and the crowd
immediate advantage of the situation, pressed behind them, now murmuring.
The soldiers saw that it was dangerous Gambetta next came forward, and
to resist them. with a few skilful sentences brought
At the head of the National Guard order out of this chaos, which promised
were many men of distinction and posi-
tion, among them M. Edmond Adam,
later a senator and influential member of
the Republican party. The hum rose
slowly and almost majestically until
burst out into a great cry of " Vive
Republique ! " This was carried bad
ward across the Place de la Coucor
and up the boulevards, the people
some distance from the scene natura
supposing that the Republic
had been declared. Pres-
ently, the doors of the Legis-
lative Palace were burst open,
and the impetuous
throngs rushed in,
pushing aside, as if
they had been made

of straw, the few
guardians at the doors.
The president, M.
Schneider, pale as a
ghost, stood looking
down on the motley
collection of individ-
uals, who suddenly had
space in front of him. But he said
no word.
M. Cremieux, a Republican, univer-
sally respected by all classes and very
popular among the masses, popped up in
his place, and said, " My dear friends,
you all know me. I am Citizen Cre-
mieux. We are very busy, just now."
But it was not M. Cremieux's day, for
there was a roar of " Vive la Eepub-
lique!" and he sat down, looking some-
THE PRESIDENT OF THE COUPS LfiGISLATIF
what disconcerted. In the galleries, WATCHING THE INVASION.
which were now thronged with men in
blouses, and with men in broadcloth, the to be so dangerous. " Citizens," he

same cry of " Vive la Rtpublique" was said, " you can now offer a grand spec-
heard, and thegraceful foldsof atricolored tacle —
that of people uniting order with
flag were waved above the assembly. liberty." He then gave a quick and
2.°) 2 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
picturesque sketch of what the assembly how about the Republic ? " cried a
expected to do, and suggested that a voice.
group of citizens should take the re- Eye-witnesses of this singular scene
sponsibility of maintaining order into say that at this question Gambetta, who
ils own hands, so that the deputies might had been halting between two opinions
not be disturbed in the discharge of their all the morning, and who was intensely
duties. President Schneider thought it anxious that this revolution should be

proper to second the proposition of accomplished within the strict limit of
Gambetta but when; lie added that he the law, suddenly assumed a new de-
thought he had also rendered to the meanor, as if he felt that the mantle of
country and to liberty service enough to his mission had fallen upon him, and,
have the right to address them, there stepping forward and commanding si-
were derisive cheers, which were echoed lence by that imperious gesture which
through the halls outside, aud which left afterwards became so familiar to the
Iii in no whit in doubt as to his loss of people of France, he said, " Citi-
prestige. Presently, the great door op- zens, "—and at his first word the si-
posite the tribune, which had defied the lence was completely reestablished, —
efforts of the invaders, opened, aud the "considering that the country is in dan-
deputies who tried to keep backthecrowd, ger, considering that the proper time has
were upset; many of them were hurled been given to the national representatives
over the desks, and nothing could be to pronounce the downfall of the Impe-
heard but " Vive hi U&publique!" M. rial family, considering that we are
Schneider thought imprudent to re-
it and that we constitute a regular power
main longer, and he was scarcely out of issued from universal suffrage, we now
his presidential desk before half a dozen declare that Louis Napoleon Bonaparte
citizens were in it; and they would have and his dynasty have forever ceased to
done him mischief could they have got reign in France."

at him. It was said, on the afternoon These ringing words, uttered by the
of this day, that he had received a blow man who had been the first to brave the
on from a
the head citizen who was auger and the vengeance of the Empire,
somewhat the worse for absinthe, and and who had begun the revolution which
that he fell covered with blood and was now culminated, were saluted with bravos
taken away by his colleagues ; but this innumerable and with renewed shouts
was subsequently proved to be untrue. of " Vive la Ttipublique ! " "No more
There was much ringing of the presiden- Empire;" "The Empire has fallen
tial bell by young workmen, who wanted forever; " "The D4cliiam.ee first, theRe-
to make speeches to the crowd but ;
Now the drum-
public afterwards," etc.
Jules Favre drove out all these intruders, mers of the National Guard, who had
and, finally, Gambetta, in his most im- been standing at the entrance of the
pressive tones, cried, '-Have you any Chamber, began to beat their drums,
confidence in your representatives?" to and to clamor for immediate departure
which the rather illogical answer came. for the Hotel de Yille. This sounded
" Yes, yes; we have confidence enough ominous, and Jules Favre made au
in you." — "Well, then, retire when I earnest speech, which he finished by
ask you to do so, and be sure that we shall saving, " Do you, or do you not, waut
pronounce the downfall " " Yes, but ! — civil war? "
"
234 EUROPE /,V STOR.V AND CALSf.
Hundreds- -of voices answered, " No, when suddenly the leader at the head of
no; not civil war; war with the Prus- the crowd of workmen reversed his
— "Then," said Jules Favre,
sians only." musket. His example was followed by
"we must have a provisional gov- the thousands behind him, and in a
ernment forthwith." — "To the Hotel minute the regiment of soldiers coming
de Ville! To the Hotel de Ville
!
the otherway bad done the same thing.
cried a voice. M. Favre continued In less than two minutes, soldiers and
speaking until a youth suddenly appeared people were fraternizing together with
in the tribune behind him, and shouted twigs of laurel in the muzzles of their
at the top of his voice, " The Republic ! guns. Hands were clasped in token of
the Republic ! Let us declare it here !
" A friendship and an old Frenchman near
;
few <>f the National ( iuards tried to make me said, " This is the grandest specta-
youth come down but
this enthusiastic ; cle ever seen in France."
he pounded the desk and continued to The
relief from suspense was very
shriek, "The Republic! The Republic great, and when it became generally
forthwith!" Presently, a voice below known that the army bad made no en-
took up the retrain ; and then it was deavor to prevent the accomplishment
that Gambetta stepped forward, and of the Revolution, men, women, and
said, "Yes; long live the Republic! children, delicate aged ladies, shop-
Let us go, citizens, and proclaim it at keepers, professional men, foreigners —
the Hotel de Ville !
" Down upon their all went pell-mell to the Tuileries, where
knees went quick-witted citizens, marking the people had gathered in its might, as
upon great sheets of paper that they it had gathered twice before at the
had taken from the deputies' desks, downfall of arbitrary power within less
"To the Hotel de Ville!" "The Re- than ninety years.
public is declared." One gentleman At the Tuileries there were very few
even wrote — and Heaven and himself signs of life the Impe-
at the windows of
only know why, on a — placard, this rial Palace, were anxious
but there
statement, " The Republicis proclaimed hearts within. The Empress had main-
by 185 votes against 113." But there tained her courage remarkably well up
was really no voting at all. No one to the last moment. She bad been
ventured to vote against the people's determined from the first that the Em-
wish. peror should not return to Paris. "He
As the men in blouses bearing the would be murdered," she said. Vet
placards came toiling up the boulevards, she appears to have had little fear for
the excitement was very great. Return- herself until this Sunday afternoon.
ing hastily from the Place de la Con- The people sent their spokesman with a
corde, I was at the Grand Hotel just in flag nf truce to parley with the colonel
time to see a regiment of soldiers, which commanding the forces before the Tuil-
was marching steadily down the boule- eries. He finally consented to withdraw,
vards, met face to face by a solid mass only reserving to himself the right to
of blue-bloused and solid-looking men, fireupon the crowd if any violence were
singing loudly and brandishing their done. But nobody paid any attention
guns. No one knew what was the inten- to the conditions which he wished to
tion of either party, and people on the impose. He was pushed aside, and the
sidewalks were beginning to run away, throngs ran through the gravelled alleys
EUROPE TN STORM AND CALM. 235
of the. garden, past the statues, up soldiers, — dangerous toys they had
the steps, and to the innermost rooms proven to the Empire !
of the palace. Guards wearing the tri- The Count d'Herisson, an able and
color were posted at each side of the who was in the first French
gallant officer,
main entrance, and as the tumultuous expedition to China, and who was a mem-
masses pushed their way in, they begged ber of the general staff during the de-
them to be calm and do no mischief and ; fense of Paris, has left on record the
members of the sanitary corps stood on best account, published quite recently,
the steps collecting money for the of the flight of the Empress from the
wounded. The flag that ordinarily Tuileries. It appears that the Empress
denoted the presence of the Imperial was decided, by the entreaties of Prince
family at the palace was taken down, de Metternicb and the Chevalier Nigra,
and on the pedestals of all statues, and who often visited her at the Tuileries
over the gates of the Rue de Rivoli, was during the last terrible days, to leave
written up in chalk," Vice la Repub- Paris and the remains of the Imperial
lique!" "Apartments to let;" " Mr. wreck. About two o'clock of the after-
Napoleon has gone to a German water- noon on the 4th of September, Prince de
ing-place;" and, finally, "Death to Metternicb and his colleague, and M.
robbers and thieves !
" a sentence which de Lesseps, who was a pretty constant
was intended as a gentle hint to the visitor to the palace, succeeded in pre-
rabble to behave. Hundreds of women vailing on the Empress to depart. " The
of all classes crowded into the private lasttwo weeks that the poor lady passed
apartments of the Empress, and curiously says the Count d'Heris-
in the Tuileries,"
examined everything that was left. The son, "had been a long torture, a veri-
rooms were in great confusion. Boxes table mortal agony. Scarcely an hour
were scattered about, and servants were passed without bringing a despatch con-
engaged in packing, paying little atten- firming the news of a disaster. Thus
tion to the angry comments of the people. her mind and her body, through these
The Emperor's private cabinet was the days consecrated to weeping, despair,
next room visited and there the public
; and labor, and followed by nights with-
found everything methodically arranged. out sleep, and even without repose, had
It had been Napoleon's habit for many both been badly shaken. She kept her-
years to work in a room quite shut off self up only by the aid of strong coffee,
from any part of the palace, almost im- and could get a fitful repose only when
permeable to noise. There, with the saturated with chloral. She had, for
little Prince, he had spent hours, daily, that matter, consumed such an immense
for the last few years when in Paris. quantity of that medicine that she had
The book in which the Prince had taken fits of somnambulism, during which, with
a history lesson before his departure her great eyes open and staring, she
was open on one of the tables, and his seemed foreign to all that was passing
exercise had been the commission to round about her, and not even to under-
memory of the fact that, at a certain who addressed her."
stand those
epoch of the First Empire, frivolity, cor- The Empress made a hasty toilet,
ruption, and lust prevailed in high places. and took as her only package a little
On the Emperor's desk were maps of travelling sack, which some of the suite
Prussia and some toy-figures of German urged her to leave lest it might betray
her; and it was afterwards found on a Count, "had known the Empress as a
toilet table when the officers of the young girl, and hail always found the
Republic invaded the Tuileries. The doors of the Tuileries wide open to him.
little party set. out, with many misgivings, lb' now placed himself at her disposal
from tin- Tuileries, through the great, with entire devotion." The Empress,
empty halls, and across the Louvre, being determined not to enter a railway
and went down into the street opposite carriage, fearing that she might be recog-
the old church of St. Germain l'Auxer- nizedand arrested, spent the night at the
rois, from the belfry of which the signal doctor'shouse, and the next day. in
for the massacre of St. Bartholomew was company with Madame Lebreton, Dr.
sounded. The Prince de Metternich gave Evans, and Dr. Crane, she set forth in
his arm to the Empress, and Chevalier a landau for the coast at Deauville, from
Nigra accompanied Madame Lebreton, which point she hoped to get to Eng-
the Empress's reader, who was greatly land."
devoted to her. The lady stepped hastily At the Porte Maillot Dr. Evans leaned
into a eah which had been hailed, and half-way out of the window, under pre-
l'rinee de Metternich said to the coach- text of asking some information of the
man. •• Boulevard Haussmann." A National Guards, who were stationed
gamin who was going by stopped, and there, and thus screened from view the
drawled out, with the peculiar accenl of Empress, who, when she found that she
" That is a good
the low -class Parisian, was outside the walls of Paris without
one sure enough that is the Empress "
; ! having been recognized, wept; hut
Luckily noone paid any attention to the whether from joy or grief the Count does
hoy's remark. The Prince and the not say. The party
went, comfortably
Chevalier (hen got into the cab, which forward Mantes, where the horses,
to
drove briskly away and on the Louie-
; completely fagged, refused to budge
vard laussmann they thought it prudent
I another step, and the fugitives were
to dismiss the coachman, and presently obliged toget into a clumsy country
to take another carriage,
which they in wagon, drawn by two ill-tempered beasts.
went to the hospitable mansion of Dr. Some future Carlyle may make out of
Evans, in the Avenue Malakoff. this journey of the Empress a chapter
The C.amt d'llerisson says, "Dr. as picturesque as that which describes
Evans was not only a specialist, who had the attempted flight of the king in the
been able to acquire a European reputa- last century, and he can use the follow-
tion as well as an enormous fortune, but ing incident, told with much effect by
he was a good -hearted man. A few the Count d'llerisson: —
weeks later, when the sufferings and In a little village called La Comman-
the privations of the siege began, he derie the new relay came to grief, and
established and maintained, out of his the horses stood stubbornly under a
own purse, an American ambulance, shower of blows from the driver's whip.
When the accounts were So Dr. Evans set out in quesl of other
made up, after he had distributed succor cattle, and presently discovered in a
to the prisoners of war in Germany, it shed a caliche, which might have been
was found that the generous American new at the time of the invasion of the
citizen had given 1,200.000 francs to his Allies. A peasant offered to go into the
French home." " Dr. Evans," says the fields and catch some wild-looking horses.
EURO RE IN STORM AND CALM. 237
His was accepted, and presently

offer interrupted save by break-downs, the
two broken-down steeds were at-
old, party arrived at Deauville. The Count
tached 1" the aged wagon. The woman d'llerisson, with a charming attention
who furnished this equipage found it so to small details, informs us that during
good that she said to the doctor, " You the journey the Empress had wept so
see that a queen might lie satisfied witli much that she had no pocket-handker-
such a flue outfit." The Empress trem- chiefs left ;whereupon the doctor pro-
bled, ami believed that she had been ceeded to wash out the handkerchiefs,
THE FLIGHT OF THE EMPRESS.
recognized but this curious remark,

; and to get them rough-dried by the air.
which from the lips of the good old
fell "The Empress," said the Count, "re-
woman, was due entirely to hazard. fused at first, and the
then accepted ;
At Evreux the crazy vehicle lum- doctor, getting down by brooka little
bered through the great square at the which ran beside the highway, washed
moment when the new Prefect was pro- out the linen, then set the handkerchiefs
claiming the Republic in the presence of to dry in the air at the window of the
the whole population. No one even turned carriage."
to look at the Empress and her faithful There were two yachts lying in the
escort. At six o'clock in the evening, port of Deauville one of them was
;
after thirty-six hours on a journey inl- called the Gazelle, and belonged to Sir
John who was a personal

Burgoyne, entirely forgot to thank Sir John Bur-
friend Napoleon III.
of Dr. Evans goyne for the use of his yacht, and that
went to him, and asked him if he would it was more than a year afterwards,
save the Empress. when Lady Burgoyne expressed her
The doctor pleaded his cause so well astonishment about the matter in a con-
that finally, towards eleven o'clock in versation with t lie Empress, that the
the evening, Sir John Burgoyne, or, as omission was repaired. In leaving the
the Count will have him. Sir Burgoyne, Tuileries the Empress had taken abso-
accepted the perilous mission, and on lutely nothing but the clothes which
Wednesday, the 7th of September, at she had on. Count d'llerisson himself
six in the morning, the Empress saw the was charged with the duty of bringing
soil of France receding from her view. to the Empress such of her personal
Slir had, with her little party, embarked belongings as he could obtain. He was
the night before, realizing that every authorized by the new authorities to go
moment she remained in France added into the Empress's private apartments
to her danger. The Gazelle was only in the Tuileries, and thus describes
about forty-five and had a
feet long, them :
—
small cabin, in which the Empress. "•The great salon, which served as a
Madame Lebreton, Dr. Evans, and kind of study for the Empress regent,
" Sir Burgoyne " passed twenty-three her boudoir, her oratory, her bed-
hours in one of the most frightful tem- chamber, her toilet-room were all in a
pests that ever raged on the Channel. long suite, overlooking, and getting
Great waves swept over the yacht every their light from, the garden of the Tuil-
minute. All the members of the party eries. All these rooms were furnished
•lidtheir best to comfort and console with the refinement of modern luxury;
the Empress, and presently the yacht and this luxury hardly seemed in its
came into the port of liyde, where place. It was out of character with the
the passengers, deluged by salt-water rather severe grandeur of the Tuileries.
and pale with their long exposure, looked It was a parlor of Madame de Metter-
so forbidding that they were refused nich transported to the old palace. I
rooms at the Pier Hotel, and they finally feel certain that if the famous ambassa-
took refuge in the York Hotel, whence dress had lived in these Tuileries her
Dr. Evans accompanied the Empress to parlor would
have been of an entirely
London. It was he who rented for different style. I have never seen the
her at Chiselhurst the mansion of Cain- private apartments of the Queen of Eng-
den Place, where Napoleon III. was land, nor those of the Empress of Russia,
destined to breathe liis last, and from but I would wager that they are strangely
which the young Prince Imperial was differentfrom those that the Empress
sorrowfully escorted to his grave by his Eugenie had arranged for herself at the
school-mates from the military institution Tuileries."
at Woolwich. Among the despatches lying in dis-
Count d'llerisson has the slightest order on the Empress's table
was one
details with regard to the historic oc- which M. and which
d'llerisson read,
casion carefully set down. We need lias an historical interest. It was ad-
not, perhaps, question the taste of Count dressed to Napoleon III., and was thus
d'Herisson in stating that the Empress conceived :
—
"Tothe Emperor: Do not dream had spread like lightning from quarter
of coming back here if you do not to quarter, and everybody seemed, in the
wish to let loose a frightful revolution. general joy, to have forgotten the Prus-
This is the advice of Rouher and Chev- sians, and the siege which was tightening
reau, whom I saw this morning. People its iron bands round the town. Jules
would be sure to say here that you are Simon says that he heard one workman
living from danger. Do not forget how say to another: "They won't dare to
Prince Napoleon's departure from the come, now that we have got it." " They "
Crimea has shadowed his whole life. were the Prussians; "it" was the Re-
" Eugenie." public. The deputies did not stop at
theTuileries, — although they were dying
The Count also indulges his public in to know what was going on within the
a sketch of the dressing-rooms of the walls, — but pushed on, here and there,
Empress ; the manuikins upon which her seeing workmen mounted on ladders
costumes were exhibited before she con- knocking off the N's and Imperial eagles
descended to place them upon her Im- from signs, and demolishing everything
perial person, and many other items which which tended to recall the memory of
we need not here recite. Some idea of the recently ruined government.
the luxury of the Empress's wardrobe At the IIAtel de Ville there was new
may be gathered from the fact that M. danger; and all the politicians knew it.
d'Herisson took away from the crown There the Communists rallied, as they
fur-keeper GOO. 000 francs' worth of rallied later to such deadly advantage.
costly furs, and that the Empress had There was Milliere with his men; De-
as many more deposited with her per- lescluze arrived shortly afterwards.
sonal friends. lie estimates the total Milliere had been busily at work draw-
value of the Empress's furs at 3,000,000 ing up lists of members for the projected
or 4,000,000 of francs. new government, and these lists were
When the Republican deputies set already being circulated in the Place de
forth from the Palais Bourbon for the Grevc when the deputies arrived. The
HOtel de Ville a vast shout went up names of Blanqui, Deleseluze, Floureus,
from the enormous masses of people on Felix Pyat, and Rochefort had been
the Place de la Concorde. Jules Eavre placed upon these lists. There was a
was stopped moment by people
at every plan to proclaim Rochefort Mayor of
who upon shaking hands with
insisted Paris, and a strongly armed delegation
him, or affectionately embracing him. had been sent off to Sainte Pelagic to take
M. Simon was quite worn out with en- him out of the captivity from which he
deavors to rescue his colleague from the was freed by the disappearance of die
too demonstrative populace. At last it Empire. Had any guardian ventured to
was necessary to surround Eavre, who resist this delegation he would undoubt-
was, for the moment, more conspicuous edly have been shot. One of the leading
than Gambetta, with a few National members of the Republican group affirms
Guards, and so, by-and-by, became with that, unless some one had had the good
his friends to the historic Hotel de Ville. sense to cry out when the procession was
Paris had, in no less than half an Hearing the Hotel de Ville, " Make tin?
hour, completely regained its equanimity. Deputies of Paris members of the go\ em-
The news of the Republic's declaration inent !
" the Commune would have hroken
240 KUlinVK IS STORM A.Y/> CALM.
outin all its hideousness on that very day, to him to halt, taken him by the hand,
and the Prussians would have been in and informed him of all the events of
Paris eight days afterwards. the day. " 1 am going with my friends,"
Rochefort arrived from his prison in a he said, "to government at
constitute a
carriage ornamented with red flags, and the Hotel de Ville, so we
will beg you
followed by a crowd which veiled, to return to your quarters, and there

••
Rochefort for Mayor of Paris!" This wait our communications." General
question of the mayoralty was a burning Trochu said he had no objections to
one, and, as we see by this incident, was doing this and in fact he did it.
; Before
brought forward the moment it was nightfall Paris had its new government,
possible. Paris had ardently desired with Gamhetta as the delegate for the
the autonomy of the capital for many Interior, Jules Simon for Public Instruc-
years, and, had the inhabitants been a.c- tion, Favre for Foreign Affairs,
Jules
eorded that autonomy, would never have General Leflo as Minister of War, and
made the Revolution of 1871. But the Genera] Trochu,Eugene Pelletan, Em-
time had not come for Rochefort to be manuel Arago, and Rochefort as dele-
Mayor of Paris, so he had to content gateswithout special missions. The
himself with a post which was offered new government's proclamation, issued
him in the new government, henceforth in haste, told the people that the Republic
to be known through the days of dilli- had them from the invasion of
saved
culty and despair in the siege as the 1792, that the Republic was proclaimed
government of National Defense. Un- anew, and that the Revolution had been
doubtedly Paris owes much to these men made in the interests of public safety.
who acted with so much gravity, vigor, A dav or two afterwards the exiles,
and tact at a time when delay or hesi- who had for twenty-one years watched
tation might have caused infinite blood- the course of the Empire from their
shed retreats in the mountains and islands,
On the way to the Hotel de Ville were on their way home. Victor Hugo
the deputies had met General Trochu did not lose an instant in making prepa-
galloping along, followed by his general rations for his departure after lie had
staff, and Jules Favre had made a sign heard the news of his enemy's downfall.
CHAPTER TWENTY-FIVE.
Sedan, — — —
The March (o the Ardennes. The Headstrong Palikao. The Crown Prince of Saxony's
Army. — General De Failly at Beaumont. — The Retreat to Sedan. — General De Wimpffen comes
upon the Scene. — The Prussians Open Fire in Front of Sedan. —
Disaster in MacMahon. Slaugh-
tered by Invisible Enemies. — —
The Battle atBazeilles. De Wimpffen's Forlorn Mope.
WHAT had taken place at Sedan? took the blame for this fatal march, at
We pass over the painful and the time that he was criticised with the
unwise march of Marshal MacMahon, greatest vivacity and harshness, upon
with his poorly equipped and badly fed himself; but history will place I lie re-
troops, from Rheims to the point at Sedan on

sponsibility of the disaster of
which he was met by the advance corps the shoulders of the Fmperor and the
of the Crown Prince's army. Some idea Regency in l'aris. General Lebrun and
of the confusion and disorder of his others have given what they thought,
march may be gathered from the state- are sufficient proofs to indicate that, in
ment, made upon good authority, that spite of all the follies committed by the
the army, which left Chalons one hun- Imperial army, the Germans were taken
dred and forty thousand strong, could very much by surprise, and thai the
not put seventy thousand men in line concentration of their troops around
on the great day of the decisive battle Metz was not. due at all to the marvel-
ai Sedan. It is now clearly established lous perspicacity of Von Mollkc, or to
by General De Wimpffen, and by other the German military genius, but rather
gallant officers, that, if they had been to a happy accident, which, in addition
allowed to have their way, they would to tin: disorganization of the French,
never have let the sun set on the battle- gave them a comparatively easy victory.
field of Sedan without a final and a On the 27th of August, at half-past
brilliant struggle for victory. The gov- eight in the evening, Marshal Mac-
ernment in Paris, acting upon the insuffi- Mahon addressed to the Ministers of
cient information which it had, insisted War the following telegram: "The lit si
with the greatest energy, while MacMahon and second armies —

more than two hun-
was hesitating at Rheims, that he should dred thousand strong—-are blockading
march to a junction with Bazaine. Gen- Metz chiefly on the left shore. A force
eral De Palikao, whose conduct can estimated at thousand men is said

fifty
be qualified only as headstrong, wenl to be established on the right, hank of

to see the Empress, and threatened the Meuse to hinder my march on
that, unless MacMahon started at once Met/.. We hear that the army of the
for Metz, he would have it posted Crown Prince is to-day on the move
up all over France that the Emperor towards the Ardennes, with fifty thou-
was the cause of the disasters which sand men. It is said to be already at
must result from the delay in bringing Ardeuil. I am at Chcnes, with a little
the two great French armies together. more than one hundred thousand men.
MacMahon, like a gallant gentleman, since the 9th I have had no news from
I'll' EUROPE IX STORM AM) CALM.
Bazaine. If I go forward to join forces in their ranks, and were obligee] to retreat
with him I shall be attacked in front by before a deadly came from
fire, which
a part of the first and second armies, forests along The Fifth
the route.
which can lodge in the woods a force French corps, under General De Failly,
superior lo my own. at the same time was thus pushed back to Chatillou, where
that I am attacked by the Crown itcamped in the greatest confusion I'm
Prince's army, who can cut off my line the night.
of retreat. To-morrow move up to I Poor General De
Failly committed
Metz, whence 1 shall continue my re- faults enough war lo lie pardoned
in the
treat, according I" events, towards the the unfortunate remark attributed to him
west." by many historians of the campaign, and
Hack came a telegram from the .Minis- never, far as I know, contradicted by
.so
ter of War, saying: " If you abandon him, —a remark made when he was in
Bazaine we shall have a revolution in full retreat. lie was breakfasting at
Paris, and yon will yourself be attacked Beaumont, where a fresh disaster was
by all the forces of the enemy. Paris destined to fall upon the French, when
will take care of itself against the Ger- he was informed that the Prussians were
mans; and it appears lo me urgent approaching. "Oh, well," said the
that you should join Bazaim- as rapidly General," we punished them severely
as possible. Shall follow you with the enough yesterday: is only fair that it
greatest anxiety." When Marshal Mac- they should put a few of our men hors
Mahon receiver! this despatch, he re- de com bat to-day ; so let us opeu another
nounccd liismovement on Met/ and bottle."
inarched towards Moutmedy, having In the leafy avenues of the Ardennes
losl a precious twenty-four hours, dur- the Germans found facile shelter, and
in".
-
which time the German army was made sad havoc among the French on
undertaking one of its terrible forced this day of the L'Tih. The next day the
marches, like that which decided the French resumed their march in a pour-
battle of Sadowa ; and MacMahon, who iug rain, and there were no hostile opera-
fancied that in tin' neighborhood of tions. Bui on the 29th two squadrons
Montmedy he was going to operate his of Prussian hussars, coming up to a little
famous junction with Bazaine's forces, village, took it, by storm. Further on,
found himself face to face with a division at Nouart, the French were unlucky in a
of the Germans, which formed, as it collision with Germans. Near this
the
were, a fourth German army, and had point the French opened a formidable
been organized in great haste, in view artillery lire upon the German troops,
of the change in the Fiench plan of who were peaceably defiling through a
tions, and placed under the orders valley about a league away; hut no
of the Prince of Saxony. This army French Geueral had had the forethought
was composed of the Prussian Guards, to block the route over which the Ger-
magnilicent troops, the Saxon-,, and man- were passing, by placing an army
one of the Alveuslcben corps, and two corps across it. On the evening of the
divisions of cavalry. 29th o\' August General De Failly's
At Buzancy the French cavalry and corps, which had been the avant-garde
the chasseurs of General Brahaut sud- of the French army, was now the rear-
denlv found the German shells falling guard. General Felix Douay, with the
Seventh corps, was in the rear, on the characterized all De Failly 's movements,
right, near Buzancy. The Firsl corps, and nothing was done until nine o'clock",
commanded by General Dncrot, formed and then, after a short inarch, there "as
the centre, and was at Raucoui't, and the a halt until noon, by which time all was
Twelfth corps, under General Lebruu, lost. Poor .Marshal MacMahon had
was in camp on the left. "To accom- gone oft confident that his orders would
plish this movement of concentration," be obeyed and licit De Failly would keep
says a clever critic of the Empire, " which ahead of the enemy, for this seems the
culminated at Sedan, the French army utmost that the unfortunate French
had made eight leagues in three days " ! hoped. At a little after (lie hour of
Unless the French army could rapidly noon. Genera] De Failly found his imps
gain Montmedy, or retrace its steps to surrounded by the army of the Crown
Mezieres, it was placed in a position of Prince of Prussia.
great danger. Through this wild, woody The first Prussian shell, it is said,
country, full of ravines, the river caused a veritable stupor in the French
Mouse takes its sinuous way. Mont- camp. Neither generals nor soldiers
medy is the principal stronghold of the had the least notion that the enemy was
department of the Mouse. Not far so closely upon them. There was a call
away are Mouzon, on the same river, to arms; many of the soldiers were in
and Carillon on the Chieres. Beyond their shirt-sleeves, some of them were
them, ami just back of the confluence of lying down asleep. There was a whirl
the Mouse and the Chieres, is situated of batteries along the hill above the
the old town of Sedan, at the bottom of French, then a rain of shell, which did
a kind of sleepy hollow, surrounded on terrible execution. Presently, three
all sides by green and wooded hills. .V French regiments of the line and the
little farther away is Mezieres, the only Fourth battalion of the Chasseurs a
really important stronghold of the sec- Pied got a position on the hills, and were
tion. " Here," says M. Jules Claretie, pushing hack into the woods the Prus-
"in this kind of triangle, formed sians who were jusi appearing, when :i
by the two rivers, the Mouse and the new storm of shells came out of the
Chieres, the destinies of the country thickets, and the valiant liners looked in
were to be jeopardized." vain for their own artillery to second
On the evening of the 29th General their efforts. The Germans, seeing that
De Failly passed through the foresl of the corpswas completely at their mercy,
Dieulet and camped at Beaumont. It is broke and with
cover, loud shouts
perhaps too much to say that he camped, advanced on the enemy. The French,
for all night long his troops were strag- in desperation, then attempted a bayonet
gling in in little parties, without the charge ; hut they were met with such
smallest attention to discipline. The a frightful fusillade that tln\ vere
rear-guard of the Fifth corps did not obliged to retreat. On the left Hie
get into camp until five o'clock in the French were thrown hack on Mouzon ;
morning. At seven o'clock Marshal their centrewas broken, and carried by

MacMahon came up to the camp, stopped the Bavarians: and their retreat upon
at the head-quarters, and ordered General Sedan was a veritable same qui jh-h/.
De Failly to march upon Mouzon. Here All night long the discouraged and
there was a delay, which seems to have demoralized troops wore pouring into the
,
gates <>f Sedan, and next day the roads graphed from Carignan to the Empress
about the town were covered with re- that there had been an engagement of no
treating men, worn out with hunger and great importance, and that he had been
fatigue. Towards nightfall of the 29th on horseback for some time,
one of the French cavalry regiments, the On the morning of the 30th of Augusl
Fifth cuirassiers, had attempted a brill- General Do Wimpffen came upon the
iant charge on the enemy, but was scene. lie was coming in all haste
badly cut to pieces by the artillery. to take the place of General l)e Failly.
The Thirtieth regiment of the line, who had proved himself so notoriously
when it retreated across the Meuse, after incompetent, and his energies were
sunset, on this disastrous day, hail not a doubly awakened because he was a
single round of cartridges left. native of the province in which this
Meantime General Douay's Seventh great and decisive struggle was going on.
corps hail arrived on the battle-field, and When he arrived at Metz, on the morn-
General LeBrun, with his infantry, had iug of the 30th, he was bonified at the
made :i splendid defence of the passage appearance of the army corps confided
of the Mouse; hntday was veritably
the to his charge. Perhaps, if he had been
lest, and (he whole army had finally in command at Buzaucy, Sedan might
received orders to retreat upon Sedan not have occurred. "I rushed down,"
along the left shore of the river ('lucres, says General De Wimpffen, in his own
Here the army was close to the published account of the operations
Belgian frontier, and entire regiments, around Sedan, " on to the plain to reason
wandering recklessly hither and yon, with the flying men. could hardly I
crossing the frontier without knowing it, make them understand me. It was in
found themselves in presence of the vain cried to them, Look behind you,
1 '
neutral Belgian line of troops, and. with if you do not believe me! The enemy's
despair and rage in their hearts, were cannon is still a long way off you have :
compelled U> throw down their guns, nothing to fear.' They would not listen
and also to recognize that they had to me in their panting retreat, [finally
thrown away their last chance for the succeeded few and par-
in stopping a
defense of the country in that campaign, tially reassuring them. by little Little
Wiel.' the confusion and agony of this tins example was followed.'' It must be
retreat was at its height, the Imperial admitted that no General ever took corn-
train of carriages made its appearance maud of an army corps under more try-
on the high-road to Sedan, and the lack- iug conditions, '-.hist at the moment
eys compelled all (he wagons which were when 1 was busies! in getting things into
filled with wounded and dying men to he shape tin- equipage of the household of
ranged in regular order at the side of the the Emperor came up along the road near
road while the Emperor passed by. me. The servants pretended that every-
Napoleon had spent the day at Beau- body must stand aside to give them pas-
mont, lying on the grass, surrounded by sage. gave some of them
I formal a,
the officers of the general staff, and lis- order to profit by the freshness of their
tening with seeming indifference to the horses, and to take a side-road, and clear
noise of the cannon heard beyond the out as speedily as possible. All the
woods. lie preserved his usual calm troops were half 'lead with hunger,"
while on the road to Sedan, and tele- saw; the General "No distribution of
;
bread had been made for some time. a few commonplaces, and hastened lo
Tlic\ were howling fur food." patch up matters as best lie could. lie
The misfortunes of General De Wim- found in Sedan neither provisions nor
pffen at Sedan have a touch of pathos in ammunition in any quantity of conse-
them. This brave man, who had heard quence. The French army had lost,
his praise ringing throughout Europe at twenty cannon, eleven mitrailleuses, and
the close of the Italian campaign, the — seven hundred prisoners at Beaumont
man whose grenadiers of the guard had and the Prussians and the Saxons were
swept down upon the Austrian army on stillpushing back the French soldiers
the day of Magenta, ami who. sword in carer and nearer to Sedan, down into
hand, had been in the thickest of the fight, the deadly hollow between the hills,
was now condemned by the strange which were so soon to be crowned by the
caprice of fate to command a broken and fatal circle of artillery. Towards Mez-
a useless army, and to sign his name to ieres, the Crown Prince's army had cut
the most inglorious capitulation of off retreat in the direct ion of that fortress,
modern times. That he was able to and the Bavarians were massed before
bear himself with the greatest dignity Bazeilles. The crowning satire upon the
under these trying circumstances reflects maladministration of the Empire was the
the highest honor upon his character; crossing of the Germans over the Meuse
and his countrymen are now unanimous on bridges already mined, which the
in the belief that, had he arrived in time, French engineer corps had not taken the
he could have changed the current of precautious to blow up.
events; nay. they even believe that, had < Jeneral De Wimpffen issued a vigorous
it not been for the inexplicable feeble- proclamation to the inhabitants of the
ness of Napoleon, towards the close of department of the Aisue, in which he
the De Wimpffen would
decisive day, said. '-One of your children who has
'have given Marshal Von Moltke a genu- just arrived from Algeria, gives himself
ine surprise. the satisfaction of visiting his family
Hut it was not to General De
be. before he faces the enemy. He b gs
Wimpffen arrived at Sedan, with what you to show yourselves the worthy
was left of poorDe Failly's corps, on the children of those who in 1814 and 1815
night of the 30th. The next morning lie joined themselves with our soldiers to
looked over the camp, and, alter a rather fight against invasion."
' 1 reception from Marshal MacMahon, .Marshal MacMahon. it is said, had
he went to pay his respects to the Em- never had the least idea of giving battle
peror. On seeing General DeWimpffen, in such a ruinous position as that in which
Napoleon's icy surface of calm melted : he was now placed. lie spent a, great
the tears came into his eyes
he clasped ; part of the day of the ."1st of August in
the General by the hands, and said. " Do examining the roads leading into Sedan,
explain to me. if you can, why we are to determine by which one he would effect
always beaten, and what can have his retreat. There were three roads :
brought about the disastrous affair at one ti) the west, towards Metz, which
Beaumont." Then he added, -'Alas! was, as we have already seen, rendered
we are very unlucky." useless another to tin' east, to Carignan
;
;
General DeWimpffen did not undertake a third to the north into Belgium. Mac-
lo explain, but contented himself with Mahon sent a strong party to cut the
bridge over the Mouse at Donchdry, Wimpffen had in his pocket the commis-
and that night lefl things to be decided sion of the Minister of War, giving him
by the position in which he should find the general command of the array in case
the enemy at dawn. General Lebruu that MacMahon were killed or wounded,
x -n General De Wimpffen learned of
asserts, however, in a recently published "S\" I
work, that MacMahon had, on the even- General Ducrot's appointment he was
ing of the 31st of August, given up all at first inclined to keep his own commis-
hopc of taking the defensive, and that sion in his pocket; but as soon as he
the disposition of the four army corps saw that General Ducrot was operating
around Sedan indicates that he was pre- a retreat <>n the centre and on the left,
paring for advance. so as to throw the whole army bark to

Marshal MacMahon did not have to Mezieres, lie thought ii was his .Inly to
wait for the morning's sun to decide take charge, and, bringing his troops
what he would do. for tin- Prussians back under the cannon of Sedan, he
opened tremendous lire at half-past
a announced himself as ( ieucral-in-chief,
four on the morning of the 1st. The showed his commission, and at once sent
Marshal jumped upon his horse, and orders to General Ducrot to take up his
went out to get an exact idea of the old position, sending to General Lebrun,
enemy's position. While watching a, who was lighting at Bazeilles, all the
lively fusillade, in front of Bazeilles, a troops which he could dispose of, to
splinter from a .shell struck and killed confirm the success that the valiant Lc-
his horse, ami the Marshal fell heavily brun was getting on the right.
•• It would have been," says M. Jules
under him. At first lie thought he was
only bruised, but when he was taken out Simon, "possible at the beginning of
from under the animal's body lie the day to operate a retreat at Bouillon,
swooned, ami found that he was so to reach Belgium, and thus to save part
badly hurt that he must transmit his of t he army ; but then the troops would
powers. He sent at once for General have constituted themselves prisoners
Ducrot, thinking that this General was without having fought. Neither Marshal
better qualified to judge of the German MacMahon nor General Ducrot nor
movement because he had had so wide General De Wimpffen thought of this for
an experience of their tactics. Ducrot ft single instant'. 'With few illusions as
hastened to the Twelfth corps, which was to the result of a battle, if they were
already very badly cut up, and pointed forced to accept it. they would hear of
out directly to Genera] Lebrun that the retreat only in passing over the enemy,
enemy was moving slowly up the heights, which was hemming them in. The Ger-
which would give them the advantage man report states this to their honor,
over the left of the First French corps, and fiance will remember them grate-
" The enemy is proceeding," he said, fully for it."
••according to its usual tactics. It is was now nine o'clock in the morning.
It
going to surround us on all sides. We General De Wimpffen, ranging over the

must not hesitate. The army must beat field of battle, met the Emperor, who
a retreat post-haste for Mezi&res." had conic back from the hills near
Meantime there were two French com- Bazeilles. Napoleon had been for a
manders on the field. MacMahon had short time under the enemy's fire, and one
appointed Ducrot. but General De of his orderlies had been killed near him.
When lie met General De Wimpffen lie The Emperor had definitely given up
was going quietly to take his breakfast, all participation in the command of the
General De Wimpffen tells ns in his French army some fifteen days before
pamphlet on the battle that he himself the battle of Sedan, and neither he nor
had had nothing to eat that morning but General Ducrol took any part in the
a carrot, that he had pulled in the field, command after De Wimpffen had shown
and that thousands of soldiers had had his commission. After Napoleon met
nothing to eat for twelve hours. The De Wimpffen on the field he went to his
Emperor asked for news of the battle, quarters in Sedan, and was seen no
General De Wimpffen answered that more until the battle was over, at six
things were going well, and that they o'clock in the evening,
were gaining ground. Napoleon thought General De Wimpffen was determined,
it proper to point out that the enemy at all hazards, to avoid a capitulation,
was massing very considerable forces on His personal pride, his sense of the
the left; but De Wimpffen said, "We country's dignity, and his fresh ardor,
are going to busy ourselves with throwing which had not yel been blunted by the
the Bavarians into the Meuse then, ; spectacle of the long series of disasters
with all our troops, we will face our new and the horrible exposures of negligence
enemy." These words, spoken in haste, since the defeats in Alsatia, — all for-
were afterwards brought up against De bade him to think of surrender. lie
Wimpffen by the Imperial Party as pre- plainly saw that he was fatally, hope-
sumable evidence of his incapacity. But lessly outnumbered; but, he set his
the( iermanmilitary report does fulljustiee heroic soul upon the task of breaking
to De Wimpffen's tactics, and condemns the line of iron and steel after he had
those of General Ducrot. General De inflicted all the punishment he could
Wimpffen's plan was to try first to win upon his enemies, and getting away out
a defensive battle, then to undertake a of this horrible valley, where he could
surprise by a sudden and general on- undertake new movements in more ad-
slaught on the Bavarian corps, forcing vantageous It was almost
positions.
them to open the road to Carignan, which impossible to move about upon this field
the movements then in operation were of battle, which was swept from earliest
leaving quite undefended by theGerman dawn by four hundred German cannon,
troops. He meant to hold out until night- The German batteries, while the l'rus-
fall not. only for the honor of the French sian corps were manoeuvring \\ ith a view
arms, but because he thought it would be to closing up the road to Belgium, sent
easier than to fray a passage for himself down upon the French troops continuous
and his army as far as Carignan and Mont- and converging fires. "Wounded,"
medv. As for General Ducrot's tactics says one French writer, "by invisible
the Prussian generals have repeatedly said enemies firing from unknown distances.
that his movement, which had been begun the demoralized troops fell into a kind
at half-past seven o'clock, had them led of dumb rage. Our artillery, inferior in
to hope that they would have the whole range to the German guns, replied as
French army safely caged by nine. They best it could ; but. while our shells could
admit that they were very much surprised not always reach the enemy, — and a good
at the sudden offensive movements, and many of them went off prematurely, —
especially at the prolonged resistance. the number of the enemy's guns was
248 EUROrii I.\ STORM AND CALM.
triple ours ;
— we were simply crushed ! of il by two officers whom be managed to
General Felix Douay's troops were ter- hail on the field, saying to his Imperial
rible sufferers from this lire. The cav- master thai he had decided to force the
aliy could not even get into line ; and to line in front of ( reueral Lebrun and ( ten-
niaintain the infantry in line of battle eral Ducrot sooner than be taken prisoner
was next to impossible." The German at Sedan. " Let Your Majesty come and
artillery 'lis mted three French bat- put himself al the head of Ids troops;
tcries in less than tell minutes. Here they will engage upon their honor to
the mitrailleuse, on which the French had open a passage lor him." This letter
counted so much, was quite useless, be- was written at. a quarter-past one; but
cause of Its short range. jus! then General Douay was falling
All the military wiiters on the French back before the Prussian artillery, and
side, describing the battles, say that the the French troops, who hail supported
German circle formed around the French with real heroism the terrible fire from
seemed to grow smaller and smaller the steel cannons of the Germans for
every lew minutes; and this weird and more than two hours, were wavering,
terrible movement of closing in bad the The Prussian rnfantry was rushing down
most demoralizing effect upon the French to sweep awav the French left, when
troops. General De Wimpffen had not General Ducrot & i:t 'lieralDe Margue-
a single aide-de-camp at his disposition, ritte with his cavalry division to charge
From a hill on which he had established the Germans. This General executed a
himself, down upon General
he looked brilliant movement, and dispersed the
Ducrot driven out of Givonne, and Gen- first inimical lines, but found himself
eral Douay half crushed bv the German rushing on troops formed in squares, and
artillery-men, and the Fifth corps artil- firing at one hundred and fifty paces
lery lighting here and there. At Ba- deadly volleys into the galloping squad-
zeilles, the marines posted in the houses rons. The French cuirassiers turned
were giving the Bavarians a terrible and returned to the charge, with the
punishment, and General Von der Tanii splendid energy shown bv their unfortu-
bad to be reinforced with troops nate comrades at Froshweilcr.
from the Prince of Saxony's army, The Crown Prince of Prussia after-
from the Prussian Brandenburg regi- wards told General Ducrot that the old
incut, ami from the Fourth battalion of (banian king, when he saw this white
Prussian chasseurs, as well as by a new line of French cuirassiers come, breaking
battery, before he could sustain combat, like foam upon a rocky shore, against
Itwas just at this point that De the black squares of German Infantry,
Wimpffen hoped to break through the from time to time, could not restrain
enemy's lines so he gave orders to Gen-
: his admiration, and cried out- '-Oh:
eral Lebrun to undertake the operation, the brave fellows." General De Mar-
At the same lime he ordered General gueritte was mortally wounded in this
Ducrot to cover the movement, General magnificent charge; but his place was
Douay to march to La Moncelle, near taken by M. De Gall iff et, so soon to he
Bazeilles, and one of the divisions of rendered celebrated by his energetic ac-
the Filth corps to throw itself upon the tion during the great Paris insurrection ;
same point. Then he hastily wrote a and new charges, all superb but all 1111-
Ictter to Napoleon, scalding two copies availing, were made.

EUROPE IN STORM AND HALM. iH'l
This final effort of De Galliffet's closed When he read the letter from the Em-
the French resistance on this side of the peror, ordering him to capitulate, lie shut
battle-field. The army began to retreat, his teeth, and said, " ! do not recognize
still decimated by the fiendish shell-fire. the Emperor's right to hoist the flag of
General Ducrot got his soldiers to rally parky. I refuse to negotiate." lie
three times; and each time the shells crushed the letter iu his hand, hastened to
sent, them back. Companies disbanded, Sedan, and furiously addressed the sol-
and began to fall away towards the old diers who were hanging about the Placode
camp near Sedan. They neither knew Turenne. " What "he said. " willyougive
!
whether MacMahon was alive or dead, up yourarins. and be made prisoners? Not
whether the Emperor had fled or was a bit of it! Follow me and open a pas-
still at his post, who was in command, sage by shoving the enemy aside " This !
or anything else They finally were

! vigorous manoeuvre seemed at first likely
panic-stricken, and swept into the streets to succeed. General De Wimpffen got
of Sedan and hung round tin- base of the about him several thousand men from all
pedestal, upon which stood the proud the corps. There were found courageous
figure of Turenne, who had taken and inhabitants of the town among those
sacked many a ( ieniian town. who offered to die or win with him and ;
The was lost. Von Moltke, on

battle they set forth upon one of those forlorn
the heights, was jubilant at the success hopes, about which, in process of time,
of his cool and adroit, calculations; hut nations weave the garlands of tradition,
there was still a. duty left for the ji and make of that which was foolish a
General De Wimpffen to perform. His sublime and heroic thing. Hundreds of
conscience rebelled more than ever at he Wimpffen's little body of men were
the thought of surrender, and he clung to swept away; but others rushed upon the
his idea of opening a gateway towards Bavarians, succeeded in taking thesquare
Carignan. WhileWimpffen wisDe of Bazeilles, and swept the enemy out
impatiently awaiting the answer to his beyond the church, where it, had been in
letter, he was horrified and ashamed strong position, and, vainly hoping lor
to hear that the white flag of capitula- reinforcements, stubbornly maintained
tion was hoisted upon the rampart of their place — it wasall that they could do
Sedan. Yet he could not believe that — until nightfall. General Lebrun was
the Emperor would answer him,
not in this glorious little body of men, and
and he waited for an hour at the head fought side by side with De Wimpffen.
of live or six thousand troops of all sorts. But in the evening, the commanding
a kind of epitome of the whole army, general, finding that he could not hold
the bravest and the best, the men who out, felt it his duty to return to Sedan.
were too honest and brave to retreat, and He had twice refused to treat with the
who were willing to sacrifice their liv< s for enemy, which Napoleon had wished him
the maintenance of their honor. With to do. He went slowly and despair-
this little body he had made one or two ingly to the little hotel, where he had
attempts to continue the resistance. taken a room on the night of his arrival,
When he learned from an officer of the and sitting down at his desk, wrote a
Imperial household about the appearance letter offering his resignation as com-
of the white flag, it is said that he fell mander-in-chief. It was then about half-
into a terrible passion. past seven o'clock.
250 EUROPE /.V STORM AND CALM
At eight, li" received a letter from King remarked that ho did not under-
the Emperor, saj'ing "General, you
: stand th<' observation of his Imperial
,;
cannot give your resignation, because we Majesty. It is." he said, " the army
must try and save the army by an hon- of my son that you have been fighting
orable capitulation. I cannot, therefore, to-day."
accept your resignation. You have done "But where, then, is Friederich
your duty to-day; continue to do it; Karl?" said the Emperor.
you will render a real service to the " Blockading Metz with seven army
country. The King of Prussia lias ac- corps," was the answer of the King,
cepted an armistice, ami I am waiting The storv goes that Kim; William
his propositions." sent down to Sedan, after the reception
If General De Wimpffen had known of Napoleon lll.'s letter, a certain
thai the King of Prussia had not ac- Bavarian lieutenant-colonel, a veritable
cepted a proposition for an armistice, daudy, tall. thin, wearing gold-bowed
but instead bail received from Napoleon spectacles. This gentleman, as. in
III. an oiler of surrender, his energetic company with the French officers who
character might have led him to some had brought Napoleon's letter, he had
very radical decision. But Napoleon reached a point just outside the Prus-
was careful to conceal from him the real sian lines, was not a little startled by
state of the case. He had sent an aide- the explosion of a shell from the < lerman
tic-rump, the Count Reille, to carry to batteries, which fell scarcely ten yards
the King of Prussia a letter, in which he from him. He brushed the dust from
said that • not having been able to die his clothes, and turning to the French
at the head of his troops, he placed his officers, said. "Gentlemen, 1 beg a
sword at the feetof His Majesty." That thousand pardons for this lack of courtesy
he was not able to die at the head of bis on the part of our artillery-men. Our
troops was due to the care with which he batteries certainly could not have seen
secluded himself in his hotel dining the the white Hag." This " lack of courtesy "
whole afternoon. cost two poor soldiers their lives and ;
Of how much avail he could have the officers saw them carried off on
been at the head of his troops be may "ladders" made of crossed muskets,
judged from the fact that he did not This Bavarian officer, Von Bronsart by
even know u hat German armies he was name, took back to the King of Prussia
confronted with. When he met the from Sedan Napoleon's formal offer of
King of Prussia, he begun talking about capitulation,
the army of friederich Karl. The old
CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX.
The Quarrel between Dtierot and Do Wimpffen. — The
Interview with the Conquerors. The Question of —
Alsatia Raised. — Divergence of between Bismarekand Von Moltke.
( Ipinion The French! Council of —
War. Napoleon's tcparture from Sedan.
I —
Napoleon as a Prisoner. —
Bismarck's Interview with him.
— — —
Over the Battle-field. Singular Appearance of the Dead. King William on the Field. His Meet- —
ing with Napoleon. —
The M'* in the Bonaparte Ili^tury.
WHEN
Wimpffen
the bravo General
discovered that he had
Ue General Ducrot was in a terrible pas-
sion,ami went on to say that if General
been deceived by the Emperor he went De Wimpffen bad not stopped his move-
at once to the Imperial head-quarters ment of retreat, the French troops would
and demanded an audience. He was now be safely at Mezieres, or, at least,
told that this was impossible, as His out of the clutches of the enemy. Upon
Majesty was in conference with the this, General De Wimpffen said that if
Prince Imperial. that was the opinion of his friends, it
This the General knew to be a lie, as was evident that he should no longer
the young Prince had been for two days retain the position of commander-in-
at Mezieres. Besides this was not a chief.
time for equivocation ; so he cried out But here a fresh surprise awaited him.
angrily that he must see the Emperor at General Ducrot was not at all of his
once ; and at last he succeeded in pass- opinion. " You took command this
ing all the guards. morning, when there was honor ami
As soon as he entered the Imperial profit to be got by it. I did not stand
presence he said, " Sire, if I have lost in your way, though I might, perhaps,
tin' battle, and been conquered, it is have done so; but, at present, you can-
because my orders have not been ex- not refuse to keep it. You alone must
ecuted, because your generals refused to shoulder the shame of capitulation."
obey me." •• Monsieur le General Ducrot itait tr&s
No sooner had he said these words exalte"," says General De Wimpffen. in
than General Ducrot, who was .seated in his account of the events at Sedan ; ami
a dark corner of the room, and whom he was, perhaps, excusable for his ex-
General De Wimpffen had not seen when citement, for, to be appointed to the
lie came in, jumped up and stepped command of a great army on the morn-
directly in front of his commanding ing of a. battle, and, before one litis time
officer. ••What do you say? We re- to get it into action, to lie relieved of
fused to obey you? To whom do you that command, is certainly enough to
allude? Is it tome? Unfortunately your try the best of tempers. General De

orders have been only too well executed. Wimpffen saw that he had a cross to
If we are on the brittle of a frightful bear, and that he might as well pick it
disaster,more frightful than anything up and go forward bravely with it. He
we have ever dreamed of, it is your fool- was full of contempt for the feebleness
ish presumption which has brought us of the Emperor's character in this criti-
there." cal moment, and did not hesitate t i show

;
2f>2 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
his fpfliiio
1
during the whole afternoon ing the rest of the war so terribly bitter
and evening. on the part of the French.
Nevertheless, he went off, as he was Hail peace Keen made at Sedan, and
ordered German head- to do, to the had the German armies retired without
quarters, where he found Count Von pursuing their march towards Paris, and
Bismarck and the venerable Von Moltke. without exacting territorial compensa-
te hud taken with him General De Cas- tiou, they would perhaps have been
telnau, one of Napoleon lll.'s aides-de- hailed by large classes of the French
camp, of this gentleman
the mission people as the deliverers of the country
being to ask for Napoleon personally the from the nightmare of the Empire. But
least unfavorable conditions. This inter- the pride of the French was touched to
view has been reported in divers versions the quick when Germany talked of tak-
by General IV Wimpffen, General Du- ing Alsatia; and. rock ess I as ii was to
I- and bv Bismarck himself.

rot, But all government did later on,
declare, as the
ai^rec in saving that it was during a con- that France would not yield up a stone
versation at that time that the Germans of her fortresses or a handful of her ter-
rirst raised the question of the cession of ritory, the declaration represented the
Alsatia and of the German pail of Lor- unanimous opinion of the nation at that
raino. "After some preliminary re- moment. General De Wimpffen con-
marks, Counl Von Bismarck coming ducted himself with becoming dignity
to speak about the probabilities of during this difficult and vexatious inter-
peace," says General De Wimpffen in view, anil asked for his troops which had
his account, "declared to me that fought so well the conditions which had
Prussia had n very linn intention of ex- been given in days gone by to the gar-
.- 1 ,
•
1war indemnity of four
j 1 1
o not only a risous ofMayence and Genoa and of Ulin ;
milliards of francs, but more than that but Count Von Bismarck set this severe
the cession of Alsatia and German condition: ••The French army must lay
'This is the only guarantee
Lorraine. down its arms and be sent into Ger-
offered because France is always us. many." Count Von Bismarck added that,
threatening lis, and we must have as a if were not complied with,
this condition
solid protection a good advanced stra- Are would be opened at six o'clock in the
teoical line."' morning. "Resistance," he told the
It is probable that a good advanced unfortunate French delegates, " is quite
strategical line was of more importance impossible; you have neither food nor
in the eves of the military' and political munitions; your army is decimated;
authorities iu Germany than the senti- our artillery is established in batteries
mental aspects of the Alsatian question, around the whole town, and could blow
This cool statement of Bismarck that, — up your troops before they could make
he intended to wrest from France one of the least movement of consequence."
her fairest provinces and a goodly portion General De Wimpffen told the conquer-
,,f another was not at first taken — ors thai France had not wished the war
seriously French populations, by the that she was drawn into it by an agita-
But, when they fully understood that it tion which was entirely on the surface;
was ihe conqueror's wish to take Alsatia, that the French nation was more pacific
a erv of horror and rebellion went up. than the Germans were pleased to
Jt was this which made the feeling dur- believe; that, all its aspirations were
towards industry, commerce, art, and, '• It is only the sword of the Emperor,"
possibly, a little too much towards well- said General De Castelnau.
being and luxury. " Do not," he said, At this point, according to the recital
with significant emphasis, " force France of General De Wimpffen and numerous
to learn anew the trade of arms. If you other French versions. Count Von
exact only a just indemnity, and do not Moltke broke out quite joyfully " In :
wound the patriotic fibre of France by that case, nothing is to he changed in

asking for territorial cession, you will the conditions;" and he added, "the
act well for the durable peace between Emperor will naturally obtain lor his
our countries." But De Wimpffen, de- person whatever he is pleased to ask

spite his eloquence, could obtain from for." The French officers thought there
the Germans no promise, save that the might lie a secrel divergence of opinion
fire should be opened from the batteries between Counl Von Bismarck and Count
at nine o'clock in the morning instead of Von Moltke; that the diplomat was not
six. if the conditions demanded were not SOrry to see the war Hearing its close;
complied with. while the General, on the contrary, was
At (his juncture the Emperor's aide-de- anxious to continue. The French delight
camp begged to be heard, and Count in picturing Von Moltke as a sinister
Von Bismarck said he was now ready to and cruel old man, whose ambition is
listen to him. "The Emperor," said tempered in no sense by mercy, and who,
General Castelnau, " charged me to t<> justify one of his mathematical cal-
make the observation to His Majesty culations, would wade breast high in
that he had sent him his sword without blood.

conditions, and had personally given When General De Wimpffen went
himself up absolutely at his mercy ; but back to the hall-crazed inhabitants of
that lie had acted so only in the hope Sedan they got down upon their knees
thai the King of Prussia would be to him and clutched his garments, and
touched by so complete a surrender, begged him not to sign the surrender.
that he would know how to appreciate Il was one o'clock in the morning on the
it, and that in consideration of it he 2d of September when he knocked at

would he good enough to accord to the the Emperor's door. The Emperor had
French army a more honorable capitu- gone to lied. Outside, the chain of hills
lation, to which it had won the right by was covered with corpses; the burning
its courage." village of Bazeilles sent up its smoke to
Count Von Bismarck thought a mo- heaven the French flag was dishonored
; ;
ment in silence then he said, " ; Is that the enemy's invasion was triumphant;
"
all ':'
the road to Paris was open the Empire ;
The General answered that it was. was lost but the Emperor had gone to
;
"But whose is the sword that the bed !
Emperor Napoleon III. has given up?" At six o'clock in the morning General
said Bismarck. " Is it the sword of De Wimpffen called a council of war <>i
France, or is it his own particular the generalscommanding army corps,

sword? It' it is that of France, the con- those commanding divisions, and those
ditions can lie singularly modified, and at the head of the artillery and engineer
your message would have a. very grave corps forming a part of it. The com-
character." manding general briefly told his comrades
2")-l EUROPE J.V ST011M AND CALM.
the result of his mission. •From the wearing the grand cordon of the Legion
very first words of our conversation," f Honor. He was quite pale, but be-
lie said, " ] recognized that Count Von trayed no emotion; and his attention
Moltke, unfortunately, had a complete W as absorbed by a cigarette, which he
knowledge of our situation, and that he W as tranquilly rolling. For a moment
knew very well that the army was out of a ft er the carriage had appeared it seemed
food and munitions. Count Von Moltke as if the crowds of soldiers and citizens
told me thai during the whole battle of wno were thoroughly enraged against
yesterday we had f'oughl an army of the Imperial occupant of the vehicle
two hundred and twenty thousand men, were about to spring upon the author of
which had surrounded us on all sides, their woes and tear him to pieces; but
'General,' he said, -we are disposed no one made a movement. A footman
to give your army, which has fought so j n greeu ii very pushed his way insolently
well to-day, the most honorable condi- through the masses. Behind the car-
tions; but they must be amenable to our r iage ,..,,,„. g r0 oins covered with gold
government's policy. We demand the [ ace :lll(1 braid; in fact, the Emperor
capitulation of the French army. It W ent to his imprisonment in the same
must he prisoner of war. The officers stv lc with which lie used to arrive on
Shall keep their swords and their personal the lawn of Longchamp on the day of
property. The weapons of the soldiers the Grand 1'rix.
must bedeposited in some specified place One single voice cried " Vivel'Empe-
in the town, to lie given up to us."' reu r!" A citizen threw himself in front
General Do Wimpffcn then asked his f t he borses, seized by the legs a
comrades if they thought it was possible CO rpse which was stretched in the middle
still to go on with the fight. The ma- of the street, and dragged it hastily aside,
jority answered no two Generals onlyi
Napoleon passed on to his surrender,
expressed the opinion that the army ,\1 ten o'clock General De Wimpffen
should either defend itself within the returned to the Prussian head-quarters,
fortress, or cut its way out at all hazards. arK] n„, lv f ouucj Napoleon, who had not
They were told that the defense of Sedan vet been .,1,1,, to see tile King of Prussia,
was impossible, because of the lack of alKi „|„, W as waiting lor tin- signature
I' 1; and streets were
'hat the roads of the capitulation before he could have
so crowded with soldiers and baggage |,j s interview.
and ammunition wagons that if the Although the terms of this most im-
enemy's fire were brought to bear upon portant surrender of modern times have
the town there would be frightful car- Deen f te n published, it may be well to
uage, without any useful result; and so them here.
q llo te
the two officers went over to the ma-
jority. PROTOCOL.
Shortly after this council of war broke Between the Undersigned —
up there was amurmur in the crowd, and The chief of the general stuff of II is Majesty
a carriage made its way slowlv through Kin 3 William,
Commander-in-Chief of the
throngs. This
German Army, and the General Co. ander-in-
(he carriage contained
,, .,, ,, Chiet of the French armies, both furnished with
the
,
Emperor with three Generals,

,
who ,
..
,, ,, „, ,.... .,,.,,..
tall powers from their Majesties King Y\ illiam

.
were conversing with him in subdued and the Emperor Napoleon, the following con-
tones. The Emperor was in uniform, vention has been concluded :
—
EUROPE IV STORM AND CALM. 255
Article 1. The army placed under the eral Mack, near Ulm, in 1805; of lite
orders of General IV Wimpffen being at present Prussian General Prince Hohenlohe, at
surrounded by superior forces about Sedan is
Prenslau, in 1806; of the French General
a prisoner of war.
Dupout, in 1809, at Baylen ; or of the
Article 2. Considering the valorous de-
fence of tins army, exception is made for all Hungarian General Goergey, in 1849, at
the generals and officers, as well as for the Villagos." The French, in short, gave
special employes having the rank of officers, up to the enemy at Sedan the Emperor,
who engage their written word of honor
will
one French marshal, thirty-nine generals,
not to bear anus against Germany and to act
two hundred and thirty officers of the
in no manner against its interests up to the
close of the present war. Officers and em-
general staff, two thousand and ninety-
ployes who accept these conditions shall keep five officers, eighty-four thousand four
their arms and their personal property. hundred and thirty-three sub-officers and
Article 3. All other arms, as well as the soldiers; four hundred field-pieces, one
material of the army, consisting of flags, eagles,
hundred and eighty other cannon, and
cannons, horses, army equipage, munitions,
thirty thousand quintals of powder. The
etc. .shallbe delivered up at Sedan to a military
commission appointed by the commander-in- Germans did not succeed in attaining
chief, to be given over immediately to the Ger- this result without the vigorous employ-
man commissioner. ment of two hundred and forty thou-
Article 4. The fortress of Sedan shall
sand troops, assisted from first to hist
next be given up in its present condition, and
in the most intelligent manner by the
not later than the evening of the 2d of Septem-
ber, and placed at the disposition of His Maj-
operations of a tremendous artillery
esty theKing of Prussia. ci ii hundred cannon.

ps u ith five
Article 5. Officers who do not make the Both Count Yon Bismarck and King
engagement mentioned in Article 2. as well as William have given to the world their
the disarmed troops, shall he conducted away
impressions of the curious events of the
as prisoners classed with their regiments and
2d of September. Bismarck, in his
corps and in This
military order. n ensure
will begin on the 2d of September and finish report to the Kino of Prussia, written
on the3d. This detachment will be conducted from Donchdry, says that General
on banks of the Meuse, near [ges, there
to tin- Reille came to him at six o'clock in the
to he handed over to the German commission-
morning to say that the Emperor wished
ers by their officers, who will then give the
to see him, and had already left Sedan
command to tluir sub-officers. Military
physicians, without exception, shall remain be- ome to him. Bismarck went forward
hind to take care ot the wounded. about half way between DoneMry and
Given at Fresnois, the 2d of September, Sedan, near Fresnois, to meet the Em-
INTO. peror. "His Majesty was in an open
Signed. De Wimpffen.
Yon Moltke. carriage. Beside him were three supe-
rior officers, while several others were
This was the end of the military his- on horseback near the carriage. Among
tory of tin' Second Empire. these Generals, knew personally Gen-
I
"This surrender," says the eminent erals Casteluau, Reille, Moskau, who —
German writer Von Wickede, "is the seemed to be wounded, and Vaubert. —
most important Known in military his- When 1 reached the carriage I got
tory. It is a greater one than that of down from my horse, stepped up to the
the Saxons at Konigstein ; of the Prus- door, and asked what were His Majesty's
sian General Fink, at Mayence, in the orders. The Emperor expressed his
Seven Years' "War ; of the Austrian Gen- desire to see Your Majesty, lie ap-
peared to have thought Your Majesty After a further conversation, in which

was also at Donchery. told him that I Napoleon plainly saw that he had little
Your Majesty's head-quarters were at to hope from the flexibility of his adver-
Vendresse, three miles away. Then the sary, he went, out and sat down in front
Emperor asked if Your Majesty had of the house, inviting Bismarck to sit,
fixed a place to which he could go, and beside him. He then asked Bismarck
what was my opinion about the matter, if it were possible to let the French army
I answered thai had arrived here in1 cross the Belgian frontier, so as to be
complete darkness, that the country disarmed by the Belgians. " I hud
was. consequently, entirely unknown to discussed this matter the previous even-
me, but that I placed at His Majesty's ing," wrote Bismarck, "with General
disposition the house I occupied at Don- Von Moltke ; 1 therefore refused to -enter
cheiv. and that I would leave it at once, into this matter with the Emperor. I
The Emperor accepted my offer, and did not take the initiative in the discus
went on to Donchery. But he stopped sion of the political situation. The Em-
a lew hundred paces from the bridge peror only alluded to it to deplore the
over the Meuse, leading into the town, evil of the war, and to declare that he
before a workman's house, which was himself had not wished for war, but that
completely isolated, and he asked me he had been forced into it by the pressure
if he could not slop there." Count Von of public opinion in France."
Bismarck had this house examined, and Between nine and ten o'clock in the
found thai il was n miserable hovel half morning, the chdteau of Bellevue, near
filled with wounded and dying soldiers. Fresnois was chosen as the place to
Bui I he Emperor halted there, and in- receive the Imperialfount prisoner,
vited Bismarck to follow him into the Von Bismarck accompanied the Emperor
house There, in a little room, fur- thither, preceded by an escort taken
nished with only a table and two chairs, from the King of Prussia's cuirassiers
the fallen Emperor and the successful regiment. Here General De Wimpffen
diplomat had a conversation of an hour's and most of the members of fount Von
duration. The Emperor insisted on his Moltke's staff were assembled, and here
desire to gel the best terms for the ca- Napoleon remained until the capitulation
pitulation. Bismarck told him that he was signed.

could not negotiate about such matters, TheoldKingof Prussia, who had been
as the military question had to be en- saluted every where throughout his army
tirelydecided between Generals V on on the previous evening with the echoes
Moltke and De Wimpffen; but he asked of the national hymn, andwith impromptu
the Emperor if he was disposed to negoti- illuminations, went out at eight o'clock
ate for peace. The Emperor said, as a in the morning to look over the field of
prisoner, he was not in a situation to battle. As he arrived on the field la'
enter into negotiations. Bismarck then saw Yon Moltke coming to meet him.
asked him what, in his opinion, was the and there learned of Napoleon's depart-
ure from Sedan. •• About ten o'clock."
representative power in France at that
time; and the Emperor suggested the he says in his account, •• I came out
o-overnmenl existing in Paris, meaning upon the heights near Sedan. At n,
the regency of the Fmpress with her fount. Von Moltke and Bismarck came
advisers. tome with the treaty of capitulation. At
EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM. 25 7
one o'clock, I started with Fritz (the how readily they became accustomed to
name by which he always mentioned the the evidences of carnage, and how, little
Crown Prince) escorted by the cavalry by little, a thirst for the accumulation of
of the general staff. I got down from horrors stole upon them. One becomes
my horse in front of the ch&teau, and rapidly accustomed to the sight of piled-
the Emperor came out to meet me. The up heaps of corpses, to the carcasses of
interview lasted about a quarter of an horses torn and harrowed by shell and
hour. We were both very much moved by bullets, to the village street with its
by meeting under such circumstances. evidences at every step of a sanguinary,

I cannot express all I felt when remem- 1 hand-to-hand encounter, and to the little
bered that three years before 1 had seen which the blood has poured so
rivulets into
the Emperor at the very height of his as to turn their gurgling currents a pale-
power." red. On the field of Sedan, death was
After this brief interview, the old inhundreds of cases hideous, and beyond
King, followed by his brilliant staff, description, for the shell-lire had been
continued his journey across the battle- something more terrible than was known
field. From Bazeilles to Illy, the hills in any previous modern battle. Hun-
and the fields were literally covered with dreds of heads were torn off, limbs were
dead men. Everywhere were dismounted rent from their bodies, brains were scat-
cannon, broken guns, pillaged haver- tered on the ground. Down by Bazeilles,
sacks, ruined drums; here in the fields companies had been literally torn to
of beet-rcot or in the lines between the pieces.
gardens, were heaps of men with their The French, for a long time after the
heads blown into fragments or their battle of Sedan, published horrible tales
entrails escaping from gaping wounds of the massacre of women and children
in their abdomens. Here were men who in Bazeilles by the Bavarians, and con-
had been struck dead in the act of kneel- tinued to assert that hundreds of innocent
ing to fire their guns and a writer, who
; persons were burned alive when the
went over the field of battle on this day, village was set on fire. That there was a
says that many of the corpses occupying and about Bazeilles,
frightful carnage in
still in death the attitude of life made no one would presume to deny but that ;
the field of battle resemble a field peopled the Germans deliberately burned any of
with wax figures. A visitor went up to a the inhabitants is not susceptible of
captain of the Twentieth of the French proof. General Von der Tann feltcalled
Hue, who was seated at the foot of a tree, upon to defend himself and his troops
holding his head in his hands, and ap- from the charge of supreme cruelty which
parently bending over a letter which he had been brought against him, and his
was holding open. The visitor touched official report shows that, out of the total
the man on the shoulder, and the body civil population of Bazeilles during the
fell forward. The officer had been dead fight, the number of dead, wounded, and
for hours. disappeared was thirty-nine, and the only
Those who have been witnesses of a persons burned or suffocated during the
who have been over a
great battle, or conflagration were two bedridden women,
battle-field shortly after the collision, three men, and three children.
remember how they shrank instinctively General Von der Tann is the person-
from the first spectacles of horror, but age who, when he was asked by his
Bavarians if they might sack a certain uniform of a French general ; his breast
town in tlic south df France, in the Loire was covered with a number of orders,
district, where they bad been rather rt was said that he had to borrow from
roughly handled, answered, "Sack it the Prussian general who accompanied

moderately ! Sack it moderately." 1 was him to Cassel 10,000 francs, in order
tciM this al Versailles by a person who to give gratuities in the manner custom-
heard it said. ary emperors under any circum-
to
On the 3d of September, at seven stances. This was certainly a sad fall

o'cloclc iii the morning, the fallen for a monarch who, three weeks pre-
Napoleon set, out, from the Chateau of viously, had enjoyed the largest civil list
Bellevue for Germany by way of Bel- in Europe.

giuin. His road led him past the most The reception of the in Ger- Emperor
frightful part of the battle-field, and he many was respectful, thoughCologne at
must have been struck with the irony of the officers who accompanied him had to
destiny when he remembered that not a restrain the crowd, who were inclined to
great many years before he had affirmed a hostile Some of the
demonstration.
in a speech in a French city that the German papers remarked that Napoleon
Empire meant peace. The greeting of was treated with singular kindness by a
the Emperor on ids way through Bel- people who had. through him alone, lost
gium was, on the whole, cordial, and he 1 .")(), ()(i() sons, brothers, and husbands.
was repeatedly cheered, (hough in one The papers were tilled with joyful quips
or two cities lie was hooted. lie ar- and jests, all bearing more or less upon
rived in Bouillon at, five o'clock in the the captivity of the Emperor. At the
afternoon on the 3d of September, and beginning of the war a German sent
from thence went by rail to Liege, two King William's Yerein for
louis for
Cologne, and Cassel, where the beauti- the wounded
ill Berlin, adding to his
fill castle Wilhelmshohe had been
of contribution these words, which became
made Among the Geuer-
ready for him. prophetic: "1 give two louis with a
als who accompanied him into his will to King William's good Verein. lie
captivity were Generals Douet, Lebrun, who will send the third Louis in is King
Castelnau, De Reille, DeVaubert, Prince William, 1 opine." This doggerel be-
Ney, Prince Murat, Prince Moskowa, came very popular Germany, and the
iii
and twenty other officers of various Verein in time acknowledged the receipt
grades. A number of high Prussian of the third Louis.
officers were also in his train. His The selection of Wilhelmshohe, or
servants, carriages, and about eighty- William's Height , as a residence tor the
live horses followed in a separate train. ex-Emperor during his captivity was the
The carriage in which the Emperor trav- subject of much comment in the German
elled to his captivity was simply a press. This is one of the most beauti-
saloon belonging to the Luxembourg ful residences in Germany. It is some-
railway, and often used by the Prince times called the Versailles of Cassel.
of Flanders. It was divided into three The palace is a low but extensive build-
compartments, one chief central saloon, ing, full of beautiful works of art,
and two small coupes. The Emperor paintings, tapestries, marbles, just as
occupied one of the latter, and rarely they were left by the Elector of Han-
left it during the journey. He wore the over in 18G6, when he fell a prisoner to
King William of Prussia. It was here, lost its kink, and hung loosely down
too, thatNapoleon III.'s uncle, King to the corners of the mouth. The
Jer6me, stayed during his sojourn man of the 2d of December had be-
in Westphalia from 1807 to 1813. come the man of the "id of Septem-
Jerome had done much to make Wil- ber, after a reign of eighteen years,
helmshohe resemble Versailles. On Na- less one quarter, neither a day more
poleon's arrival at the railway
station at Cassel he was re-
ceived with royal honors. A
company of the Eightieth regi-
ment of infantry sainted him
just as they would have saluted
the King of Prussia. The
heads of the civil and military
departments met him and gave
him an official welcome. Na-
poleon looked weary and as if
he suffered from liver com-
plaint. His eyes were dull
and his walk was heavy. A
single hussar rode before his
carriage as he was taken to
the castle. Soldiers turned
out and received him with
drums sounding and presented
arms. Dinner was laid for
twenty persons, and Napoleon
and his suite did ample justice to the
viands spread before them. The King of
Prussia sent down his own cook and first
chamberlain and several of his servants
from Berlin to Wilhelmshohe, and all
were ordered to pay the greatest atten-
tion to their guest. Here Napoleon
seemed suddenly struck with old age.
He passed entire mornings, now bent
over in an easv-ehair napping and mus-
ing, now in a long gallery of the con-
servatory, leaning upon a cane or on the
arm of his faithful doctor, Conneau.
As in the words of one who saw him
at Wilhelmshohe only a few days after
he had grown old, weak,
his arrival there,
spare, and his hair was gray. The
Napoleonic curl hail disappeared, the
characteristic Napoleon moustache had
;
the historyof the Napoleons. Marbozuf, siniii. Mondovi, Marengo, on the Mos-
say these plodding Germans, was the kowa, Mireil, Montepean, ami Montenau.
first to recognize the genius of Napoleon Milan was the first aud Moskoiva the last
I. in the young military scholar. Ma- place which he entered as victor. At
rengo was the first great battleof < reneral St. Helena Montholon was his first
Bonaparte; Mulcts cleared out of Italy chamberlain, and Marehant his compan-
before him; Mortier was his favorite ion, lie lost Egypt through Menon, and
general; Moreau betrayed him; Murat took the l'ope prisoner through Meiolles.
was his first martyr; Marie Louise, the lie was conspired against by Mallet; and
companion of his greatesl fortune Mos- ; three of his ministers were called Maret,
COIO his deepest abyss; and Melleun a Montalivet, and Mallieu. His last resi-
diplomat whom he could nut master. dence in France was Malmaison.

Look-
Massenet, Mortier, Marmont, MacDon- ing up the M's in Napoleon
the history of
«/</, Ma mt, urn! Marcey were among his III., the Germans begin with what they
marshals; and twenty-six of his division call the French defeats at Mete, then
generals had M as the initial letter 'if the disaster at Sedan under MacMahon
their names. His first battle was at then the generalship of Moltke and so ;
Montermolt; his last. Mont Si. Jean, at they go on in their innocent array of
Waterloo. He won the battles of Jficles- alliteration.
—
EUROPE IS STORM AND CALM. 261
CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVEN.
A Solemn Situation:- — Return of the Exiles.— The Spoils at the Tuileries. — Advance of the Germans.
The Military Strength of (he French Capital. — The Sixteenth Siege of Paris. — Closing in.
( —General Trochu's Review. A Visit to Asnieres. — Prussian Prison-

lurious Fights in the Capital. —
ers.— The Fight al Chatillon. The French Retreat. — The Occupation of Versailles. — The
—
Crown Prince of Prussia visits the Old Home of Louis XIV.
A GREAT
for a
tion of the Republic.
silence fell upon
few days after the declara-
People came and
Paris sent the new representative
people to penetrate into besieged Stras-
bourg and take his place there as pre-
of the
went as if heavy
they were carrying' fect of the Republic. Victor Hugo came
loads. The responsibilities of the mo- home from and had a temperate
exile,
ment weighed upon every one's shoulders ovation at the Northern railway station,
alike. Men had awakened from a where he had made a speech saying that
dream, and were facing a harsh reality ;
" Paris could never be captured by as-
the enemy was in front, and civil war, sault;" and it is noteworthy that the
despite the greatest vigilance and Prussians did not try to demonstrate
adroitness on the part of the political the untruth of this remark. The old
managers, was beginning to appear in poet had said, before his return, " I
the background. " France," said a shall inscribe myself as a national

writer in the ''Revue des Deux Mcmdes," guard in the ward where 1 shall take
in describing these days, " litis taken up my abode, and I will go on to the
possession of herself once more, with- ramparts with my gun on my shoulder.''
out battle, without bloodshed, and by He brought back with him the almost
a kind of sudden effort of patriotism old-fashioned phraseology, which was
and despair in presence of the enemy." considered so vigorous and manly when
Gambetta's proclamation announcing he left France after the amp d'Etat.
the formation of the government of In his train came the other men who
National Defence was received with had been proscribed during the reign
general favor, but without much ap- of Louis Napoleon, Edgar Quinet and
plause in Paris. The great capital had Louis Blanc, whose first visit was to
spent all its enthusiasm on the day of Jules Favre, who had been instrumental
the 4th ; Marseilles went wild with joy ;
in getting him sent into exile. The
Montpellier, Havre, Valence, Nantes, more enlightened Radicals forgot their
and Lyons gave themselves up to re- own quarrels with the moderate Repub-
joicings, which were perhaps reasonable licans, and rallied with them to the
enough, as all these cities fancied that defence of the country. The recogni-
Paris would now take " the deliverance tion of the new Republic by the minister
in hand," and would carry it trium- of the United States was eminently
phantly to a close. The city of Lille gratifying to the little group of depu-
sent a despatch to the capital saying ties who had undertaken so formidable
that the population of Paris had de- a. task.
served well of the country. Gambetta A committee was intrusted with the
examination of the great number of pri- non. if necessary, be mounted on its
vate papers found in the palace of the walls? "A simple line of soldiers placed
Tuileries, andwas instructed to publisl tside the reach of the guns, and par-
them for the information of the public, allel to the outer works," said the military
1 1 1 1 1 the papers found had no relation to authorities, "would require ninetv-six
the mysterious scandals or the social thousand men !
' How then could the

dramas so frequent under the Empire. Prussians bring up a force tremendous
The committee discovered that inNa- enough to establish a siege of Paris? The
poleon's library an elaborate memoir city was divided into five great military
destined to enlighten the Emperor of centres internally; and each of these
the French on the state of the mi! i- centres was in itself a detached fort,
tary forces of the Confederation of the Within and without, the noble citadel
north Germany had scarcely been
of was strong. Besides, could not the hun-
touched, but thai Roman medals, bits dreds of thousands of men within the
of history and inscriptions, calculated to walls swoop out by night and crush the
figure in the work on Ca;sar, with which daring invader? It was evident that be-
the Emperor had amused himself, and fore the walls of Paris the country was
romantic projects, like that for annexa- to be avenged. Whether on the side
tion of Belgium, had absorbed the Im- towards the Marne where were the—
perial attention. In the library of the formidable redoubts of Noisy, Martreuil,
Empress the evidence of the ultra-cleri- Boissiere, and Fontenay, and where the
cal turn of her mind was to lie found on famous camp of St. Maur was en-
every hand. The bones of saints and trenched ; whether away beyond on the
pious relies were hung upon the walls, made by the junction of tlie Seine
cornel'
and contrasted strangely with the painted and the Marne, where stood the proud
ceilings filled with Cupids and figures of tort of Charentou, including within its
gods and goddesses. The works of Proud- walls a space for the encampment of two
lion were side by side with the fantastic hundred thousand men or whether,
;
romances of the eighteenth century again, upon the southward line, on the
or severe treatises on religious duty, left bank of the Seine, where stood in
" There was," says a French writer, " a stout brotherhood the foils of Ivry,
curious mixture of rice-powder and in- P.icetre, Montrouge, and Yanves ; or,
cen-.e Empress's boudoir, quite

in the yet again, upon the western line, strong
characteristic of this Spanish piety." by nature, and stronger still with its
All this time the Prussians were com- proud Mont Valerien, the prince of Part-
ing rapidly on, and provincial troops sian strongholds, controlling all the coun-
were l
ring into Paris, the only great try round about —
there might lie an
rallying point now
These country left. attack, there seemed no cause for appre-
folk, —
the Bretons, the Bourguignons, in hension. Here was a grand " circum-
their blue Mouses, the stalwart men of ference line." thirty miles long, around
Auvergne, and the lithe and sinewy chil- which there was complete telegraphic
dren of the south, felt a new confidence as communication, and from which there
they set their feet within the walls of the were subterranean passages for sorties.
Capital. For how could it lie taken? Citizens and the soldiers felt a kind
Had it not sixteen hundred regular siege- of joy in the prospect of the coming
guns? and could not live thousand can- conflict, and never dreamed of failure.
ET'IWPR IN STORM AND CALM. 2G3
General Trochu began to talk about the In 1358 the Dauphin tried in vain to
" useless mouths," and to semi out of take and in the following year
l'aris.
the city day by day large processions of the King of England tried, and had also
vagabonds, of suspected persons, of to give it no. Put in 142,") tiie English
women and children who were likely to had better success, and Lutetia bowed
fail of means of support. Every one her neck to them for fourteen years.
who remained was expected to contrib- In 1427 Charles VII. tried to reconquer
ute heartily to the sturdy defence, and, the city; but the English laughed him to
possibly, to offensive movements. scorn. In 1402 the Duke of Burgundy
This was the sixteenth siege of l'aris. ravished all the country around, and sat
In the year 5:3, B.C., Labienus, the down to a siege, but had poor luck, in
energetic lieutenant of Julius Csesar, 1464 the Comte De Charlois surrounded
laid siege to the island on which the the city with his men-at-arms, but soon
Lutetians had built the Paris of that day, went away crestfallen. In 1536 Charles
and so worried them that, after a time, Quint, the then king, battered down the
they burned their town, and retired as walls. Under Henry and Henry
III.
best they could. Five hundred and IV. Paris sustained the world-renowned
thirty years after this siege the Romans siege of 1593; and in 1S14 the allies,
held the town, and Childeric, the first after a short delay outside the gates,
chief of the Franks, cast covetous eyes rambled at their own sweet will through
upon the long rows of noble buildings the avenues of the town.
spread out on either bank of the Seine ;
< >ne of the sights in the gardens and
and. by-and-by, he laid siege with suc- public parks during these few days,
cess. Then came the Normans in 865 ; between the declaration of the Republic
and they pillaged church and monastery, and the final investing of the city, was
ami threw many of the inhabitants into the daily drill of the citizens. Thou-
the flames. Driven out, they came sands of men, dressed in their every-day
again shortly after; and this time, the clothes, with blue sashes tied about their
Parisians repeated the trick of their waists, and numbers on their breasts,
forefathers, the Lutetians, — they burned went awkwardly, but with great deter-
their own town, and retreated. Once mination, through the military evolutions
more, in 861, an enormous band of under the directions of angular sergeants,
Norman brigands arrived to pillage who never smiled, no matter how ridicu-
Paris, besieged it, and took .it, but lous the butcher and the baker looked in
found little therein About this time, their soldier clothes. The National
the idea of extensive fortifications arose, Guard, in its stiff, tall hats, and its blue
and walls were built in haste but before ; uniforms, daily did twelve hours' duty on
they were completed, back came the the fortifications. The hotel-keepers,
persistent Normans, with an army of the merchants, the tradesmen of all
thirtythousand men, and laid a siege classes, shut up their shops, and re-
which lasted two years. As the Nor- nounced all idea of profit. The Turcos
mans were about to retire, Charles le and the Spahis, some eighteen thousand
Gros capitulated, to his own dreadful strong, were praised and fSted wherever
disgrace, and made
shameful peace a ; they went within the city. Hundreds
whereupon he was impeached and lost of refugees from the environs of Sois-
his throne. sons, fugitives from Sedan, people who
were half-starved, covered with dust, and every accent and dialect in France were
in many cases with mud, their garments represented. Jules Favre ami the other
in tatters, came straggling in. I saw members of ( io\ eminent,
the Provisional
men who had been without food for days, as was then called, had wished to ac-
it
and who sobbed over the bits of bread. c pany General Trochu as he rode
The most affecting spectacle was the along the line but he had objected, and
;
daily arrival of the peasant families from said, il You cannot ride, and you do not
the towns around Paris.
little They want to make yourselves ridiculous be-
came by hundreds upon hundreds,
in fore the Parisians." Si iion & vero v ben
General Trochu growling, and announc- trovato, forFavre and Gambetta would
ing his intention to pass them on through have looked rather absurd caricoling be-
the city to a safer part of France. But, fore the National Guard and the Com-
poor things! they never com- left the munists in. esse. Immense crowds of
fortable shelter of the walls when once women, all wearing the tricolor, and all
within. They camped in sheds, in grana- babbling like magpies, followed the Gen-
ries, in railway carriages no longer in use, eral and his staff, commenting and chaf-
which the proprietors generously
in cafe's, fing the workmen and the bourgeois, and
offered them. There were ten thousand indulging in lively curses upon the in-
refugees from Strasbourg alone. vading Prussians.

All the beggars drove a thriving trade On the day after the review T went
in Republican "liberty-trees"
tricolor out at dusk to Asnieres, to discover
and caricatures of the deposed Emperor. whether the bridges over the Seine were
If a wounded soldier stopped on the to be blown up, and 1 found thousands
street, to talk, he was surrounded at of men, half-naked, toiling on the outer
once by hundreds of eager listeners, works of the fortifications. As yet there
and he usually got a hatful of money. was no water in the ditches hut it ;
The populations refused to believe that was only the work of a few hours to fill
MacMahon was not dead. Tin- story the moats. The walls looked more
that hewas a prisoner was distasteful. formidable than ever before. Here the
On the Champ de Mars thousands of approaches were distinctly difficult. As
troops paraded ; along the river opposite I arrived outside the walls the sunset
Trocadero a huge stockade was placed; had cast, a certain glory on the western
ami on the heights of Passy fortifica- sky that threw everything into relief,
tions bristled. except the dark outlines of the gigantic

On the September General
11th of fort of Mont Valerien : and this rose
Trochu held a review, and the array of through kind of tremulous mist, frown-
a
forces was certainly imposing. Even ing and sombie. The hills and woods
the Parisians, with their tendency to ex- beyond made a black background, into
aggerate the numbers of their defenders, which the great mass of masonry slowly
had not believed that the town contained melted, ami was lost to view. For the
such a gigantic army. The line of first time 1 realized that Paris is a forti-
troops extended from the Arc de Tri- fied city. On whichever side I gazed I
oinphe to the Bastile, and numbered saw a grim, high Mall, with a black-
three hundred thousand men. And nosed cannon
leering from its top,
what a chattering, motley, noisy line of stretching away, and the sentinels prom-
troops it was! Every complexion and enading, —
vainglorious cockneys, no
";
doubt, but willing to do their best for the in the forests as a warning to the popu-
defense of their country. Asnier.es w:is lations that had not already retreated.
deserted ; the pretty water-side villas This measure was misunderstood in
were empty ; there was nothing to eat Paris, and was attributed to the van-
in the town. I had to satisfy two or dalism of the Prussians; and thousands
three venerable fanatics that I was not of people Mocked up to the heights of
a spy, after which they told me that the Montmartre to see the fires and to pro-
Prussian Lancers had been seen the day came in
claim that the Prussians as they
before in the neighborhood of Bas were burning all and
the villages right
Meudon and Sfivres, and that the treas- left. In the wood of Montmorency, at
ures of porcelain had been brought in Stains, and at Le Bourget, the tires
great haste from the factory at Sevres raged for hours. All along the route
into l'aris. from Drancy Boudy, innumerable
to
Next morning, when I went out upon small fires, like ground stars, were
the street, I found all Paris in emotion. twinkling. The rumors were magnified
All my French friends were livid with as they drifted down from the heights of
excitement. The advance of the Ger- Montmartre to the grand boulevards,
man army had appeared close to Paris and the Parisians went to rest that night
some Prussian prisoners had been taken, convinced that the Prussians had burned
and were now on the streets, being- at least a hundred towns, whereas they
paraded up and down. I went to see had really burned nothing at all.
them. Near the C'af<5 Amiricain stood On the 15th, as a passenger train
one of eight Uhlans, who had been dis- rolled into the station of Senlis, was it
mounted, wounded, and captured. He taken by the Prussians. Onsamethe

had been allowed to retain his lance, as day, near Chantilly, another train was
his captors fancied that this would give shot at by Prussians posted along the
him an artistic flavor. The crowd, above line ; and in the afternoon the governor
which he towered like a Brobdignag, was of Paris received a despatch from
enormous and some ; of the market- Vineennes, saying that the advance-
women, who had been having a perpetual guard of a large German column had
holiday since the declaration of the Re- been seen between Creteil and Neuilly
public, cried out, " Down with them ! on the Marne. This looked very much
Death to them " But no one offered vio-
! as if Paris would shortly be invested.
lence. Some of the prisoners afterwards On the 16th the Orleans line was cut.
complained had had their
that they On the 17th a Prussian detachment
decorations torn off but none of them ; crossed the Seine at Choisy-le-Roi on ;
were hurt. The moment any one at- the 18th a strong column crossed the
tempted to incite to bloodshed, a man river at Villeneuve St. Georges. Here
would climb up to the nearest, elevated there was an encounter, which the jour-
point and "entreat his brethren not to nals of Paris at the time called the first,
bring disgrace on to the Republic

:
battle near the capital. I found, on the
whereupon everybody would shout for evening of the 18th, that I had to choose
order, and the amiable goddess, Reason, between imprisonment in Paris during
would resume her throne. Hie siege, and the chances of witnessing
As soon as the Germans were signalled the operations from without. I deter-
in the immediate vicinity, fires were set mined to visit the lines in front of
L'Cli EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
Strasbourg, and then, if possible, l<> who liad attacked the German column as
make my way through the occupied ii was moving along the highway. The
country, to the German head-quarters, a forests in the neighbor!] I of Sceaux,
trip which, I thought, would occupy a( Uagneux, and Clamart had not been
besl tliree or four days, but which thinned away to allow of military move-
proved much longer and more difficull ments ; and tin- Germans readily found
than 1 had imagined. shelter there. "Ambuscaded In-hind the
I left Paris on the evening of the trees," says Claretie, "the Prussians
18th by one of the last trains which fired exactly as they did at Forbach,
went out <>!' the capital, and the last directly into the masses of advancing
words heard within the walls were:
1 French troops. The disaster was great.
" It will all be over in a fortnight. The Some of our Mobile battalions fired into
Germans will be pushed back. They the IGtli French line, while the Zouaves,
(annul resist the tremendous forces funned out of the remnants of the regi-
vvithin the capital." 1 went to Rouen, ments of the Ardennes, Med in disorder,
from thence to Dieppe, thence to Dover, panic-stricken, throwing away their guns,
thence to Ostend, and so presently and dragging -with them in this precipi-
found myself again in Germany and on tale retreat the greater pari of the army,
the way to Strasbourg. A regiment of cavalry composed of

If it had not been for the unfortunate cuirassiers, of carabiuiers, of chasseurs,
affair at Chatillon, the prophecy which I of gendarmes, a mixed regiment, which,

heard as I left the walls of Paris might in its picturesque amalgamation gave a
have proved true; but the rapidly ad- melancholy idea of the few forces left to
vancing enemy, which ought to have France — this regiment tried to stop the
received a severe check, was allowed to runaways. The artillery kept its posi-
eflect an easy victory in its endeavor to lion, and bravely answered the German
take the plateau of Chatillon ; and it was batteries; but it was all in vain: the
not only successful in doing this, but it troops wavered and fled. From the
created a veritable panic among the heights of the redoubt of Chatillon, so
poorly disciplined troops with whom hastily abandoned by us, the German
it came into contact. On the 18th of batteries sent their shells into our dis-
September, General Ducrot, who had ordered regiments."

already escaped from the Prussian lines M. Francisque Sarcey, the celebrated
and got safely back to Paris, occupied, critic, who saw this retreat from the
with four divisions of the infantry of the plateau of Chatillon, thus describes it:
line, the heights of Villejuif and those of " I shall never forget the dolorous sen-
Mendon. In tin' evening, he made a sation which pierced my heart like a
cavalry reconnoissance to see what were sharp arrow. Here was a retreat in all
the movements of the enemy. lie was its hideousness. Soldiers of all branches
naturally anxious to hinder the ( ieriuans of the servic came disbanded, straggling,
from continuing their march upon Ver- or in broken platoons, some without
which seemed to Ik- their objective
sailles, their haversacks or weapons, some still
point. At daybreak on the 1 9th there armed, but all stamped with the Stigma
was a general engagement, in which the of desertion. Ambulance wagons, mas-
division of General d'Exâ took a part, terless horses. broken ammunition
sustaining some of the Francs-Tireurs, carriages, strayed to and fro in a dis-
:
EUROPE l.\ STORM AND CALM. 267
ordered crowd. On either side of the of one of its armies at Versailles, both
road, on the sidewalks, there was an for the romance and the practical ad-
enormous mass of women and children, vantage of the thing. The .Mayor of
anxiously asking about the survivors, or Versailles, rejoicing in his new-found
heaping reproaches and menaces upon Republican dignity, was assembling H
the drunken and discouraged soldiery, wise men of the place for a parley con-
because there were wretches in uniform cerning precautionary measures, on the
who were intoxicated and who staggered morning of the 18th, when it was an-
along against the walls. Cries, songs, nounced that three Hussars, each of
imprecations, laughter, weeping, the whom wore a skull and crossbones on
groans of the wounded and the oaths of his cap. were outside the town, and de-
the wagoners, and, over and above all, sired tospeak with His Honor the Mayor.
the indistinct growling of the crowd, the These bold horsemen came up through
far-off thunder, like that of the ocean in a longlineof the National Guard, few of
days of tempest, was most impressive. whom had any guns. Hut the Mayor re-
VV e came hack to Paris in despair. On fused to see them unless they could
the boulevards we heard that twenty thou- present the authority of some General
sand of our soldiers had been completely therefore they were withdrawn. Early the
crushed by one hundred thousand Prus- next morning an aide-de-camp, followed
sians, near Clamart, that the whole by a single horseman, came again to - :e
army had thrown away its weapons, de- the municipal authorities. lie spent the
claring that it could fight no longer, and greater part of the morning in c >nv<
that the victorious troops were pursuing tiou with the Mayor, representing to him
the retreating French. the uselcssness of resistance. But his
"The National Guards, furious, took talk, emphatic though it was, perhaps
the deserters by the collar, called them did not produce so much
cowards, and carried them off, with many thunder of the cannon, which was now
blows from their musket-butts, to the heard between Versailles and Sceaux.
police stations, or to the Place Vend&me. This cannonading appears to have con-
The exasperated crowd spat iii the faces vinced the good Mayo]- that there was a
of the miserable men who had dishonored Prussian army at hand, and he was
large'
their uniform ami the name of French- wavering between capitulation and a
men. There was a universal cry against hopeless resistance, when there suddenly
the Zouaves and the Lancers, and their arrived from the same direction as the
execution was clamored for." aide-de-camp a captain of engineers, also
Meantime the Prussians had installed an aid of the General commanding the
themselves in Versailles. They had sur- Fifth Prussian corps. The keys of the
rounded the old town on all sides from magazines, in which provisions and for-
a distance, as early as the 18th and the : ji were stored, were now given up.
Uhlans had had confided to them the and by this time cannonading was heard
task of discovering the condition of the on the farm of Villa Coublau, only a
town, and entering it for a requisition. very short distance from Versailles.
The enemy appears to have had a very This Doise came from General Vino -
correct estimate of the number and valiant attempt to defend the- height- of
quality of the forces there, and to have Meudon, — an attempt which was unsuc-
determined to have the head-quai cessful. The railway trains, to and
lV,N . \ -/"/.''/ AXD < i
"
from Paris had been suspended the the enemy entered bythe Place d'Armes,
ilav before. About uoon the Mayor tlu> Rue St. Pierre, the Avenue d< S
appeared before the gate at the end of Cloud, and tin load from St. Germain, 1
in.- \\ enue de Paris, and read tin I s the inhabitants, overcome by curiosity,
ic capitulation of the city and the gathered in great crowds to see them.
forces in it. A striking passage in this All heads were uncovered as a little
iinenl was that strictly specifying that band of Zouaves, bareheaded and
all monuments in the historic town should wounded, made prisoners, just at the
''>
respected. The French probably re- ose of the fight, were hauled alone- by
membered the fui of the Prussians - the dusty Germans, who were munching
up the Champs Elys£es, in 1814, and bread or unconcernedly sniok _ their
how the\ broke the statues at Malmaison. pipes. There were a iv\\ cries of • Vive
FRENCH GUARD MOBILE IN" THE CAMP OF 3T. MATTE.
Oueofthe Lieutenants of the National fa B e! " to " hich no i ibjections

Guard, -
Vet sailles, was then were made: and in an hour or two. the
invited to a parley with the Prussian Gen- > 1 helmets of the Bavarians and
eral, lie was obliged to pass <>, their crests were seen throughout the
field of battle, and. while there, hi - woods and the gardens of Versailles.
the 1 ussians ftiug wo mdedli thi into I' city placed at the m of its
ulances marked, ' Hospital of Ver- eaptors twenty-sis oxen, ten hog-heads
sailles. Palace." ••This for the Trianon," >'i wine, and three hundred thousand
etc. l'i f this upon him can Det- fran>--' wi I
ol »rain and forage. Large
ained than described. [Ie next mm:' - the German troops pass
saw the inimi ns Pruss i
mm tiling direeth out oi the city to go forward to
away '
sittous it had suc- positions near St. Germain audi St,
led in hi a » id, and Cloud : and others inaugurated an
rapidh Vers s. Then and. having gorged them-
- .
about t« d men in this 5, 1 usual i

recautions for
column, although the French put the their own safety ant that of their capt-
uumber as - d. As ured gi ii i
Is.
EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM. 2(>9
CIIArTER TWENTY-EK ! IIT.
Enemies Face to Face. —

Jules Favrc and Bismarck at Ferrieres. —
Personal lharacteristics of the feiman
( I
< lhancellor. — His Notions about France. —

A Porti'ait of him by Favre. —
His Opinion of Napoleon
III. — "He Deceived Everybody." — The Crushing Terms Demanded of France. — The Force
of Carieatun a. — M. Favre considers his Mission at an End.
DURING tiio.se terrible days of the Jules Favre approached the Prussians
18th and 19th (if September, clays with the feeling that neither he nor his
which brought such anxiety, and were colleagues were iii any respect blame-
full of so much 1 litter suspense for Paris, worthy for (he declaration of the war,
an interview destined to prolong the ami that the terrible condition in which
resistance of tiie great capital, and to the French nation now found itself
give it the character of implacable fierce- was due solely to the incapacity of a
ness which it gradually assumed, had regime which he and his followers had
taken place. had been
Jules Favre always condemned. He therefore neither
and delicate task
selected for the difficult felt the shame nor the revolt of pride
of advancing to meet the victorious by which an Imperial envoy would have

enemy, and soliciting from it such con- been agitated under the circumstances ;
cessions as might render the lot of the lint he was a true patriot, and, as such,
conquered more tolerable. his heart was torn with grief which he
We heard M. Favre much criticised in could not conceal. The war, if the vic-
those days, ami especially by those who torious Prussians now chose so to con-
were anxious to found upon the ruins of sider it, was at an end. The govern-
the government of which he was a mem- ment which had declared hostilities was
ber a tremendous insurrection, and a overthrown; the enemy had success-
social revolution. At the close of the fully vanquished the most aggressive
war, too. when hearts were still very of the French forces, and virtually held
sore, Jules Favre was condemned by a great part of the country at its mercy.
many because had not been able to
lie To precipitate the horrors of the siege
meet the triumphant Bismarck with that upon a population of two millions of
unruffled demeanor assumed by M. persons, upon hundreds of thousands of
Ponyer-Quertier when that eminent finan- helpless women and children, upon the
cier and economist came into contact vast numbers of people who lived from
with the Prussian Chancellor. Pouyer- hand to mouth, and who could not be
Quertier, it was said, rather staggered expected to have provision for the lone
the coolness of Bismarck : met him on his months of inaction during investment,
own ground, assumed the swagger that was a responsibility which neither M.
the great man affected when he was in Favre nor his friends felt that they could
France, and drank with him his atrocious incur without an effort to disengage
mixtures of lemonade and white wine, themselves.
keeping his head when other Frenchmen So on Sunday, the 18th, Jules Favre
would have succumbed. set out in pursuit of Bismarck, lie had
much difficulty in discovering that illus- Count Yon Bismarck stated his willing-
trious diplomat. When once outside ness to receive M. Favre, and promised
Paris, he was himself quite lost. Lord him safe conduct through the lines. But
Lyons' courier bad stated in Paris that it was not until late in the afternoon that
the German head-quarters was at Lagny, the two diplomats met. The uead-quar-
and would be moved next day. Lord ters had been hastily moved from Meaux
Lvons himself told M. Favre thai His- to the magnificent chateau of the Roths-
marck was at Grosbois. M. Favre, there- childs, at Ferrieres ; and Count Ilatz-
fore, made a pretext of a visit to the fort feldt, Bismarck's private secretary, was
near the Charenton gate, and so had got sent to hunt up M. Favre, and tell him
out of town without exciting the sus- of the change.
picions of the jealous National Guards, " So we turned hack upon our steps."
who were already beginning to assume a says M. Jules Favre in his ' simple re-
menacing attitude with regard to the cital" of the events of the war. "When
newly constituted government. Pres- we reached the little Montry,
village of
ently M. Favre, accompanied by two or we were forced to stop there our team :
three other officials and a French staff could lvo no farther. We found two
officer, came to the last village occupied peasants wandering about the ruins of
by the French troops. All the houses a farm, which, they told us. had been
round about had been abandoned by pillaged three times, so that they had
their inhabitants. nothing left. Everything, even to the
A priest came from a church nearby sills of the windows, had been destroyed,
to warn M. Favre that he would be made We sat down on a heap of rubbish,
prisoner if lie went on ; but the little After waiting half an hour we saw three
troop set forth across the deserted coun- cavaliers, followed by an enormous re-
try, ami, after an hourV. march, they came hide, approaching. One of them, very
to some German soldiers posted on either tall, had a while cap with a large rosette
side of a long, tree-bordered alley. Here in yellow silk. This was Count Von
the French officer had his eyes bandaged Bismarck. He dismounted at the gate
by the enemy, and as soon as the soldiers of the farm, at which 1 stood to meet
learned who M. Favre was and what he him.
wanted, an escort took him and his "' I regret,' I said to him, ' that I can-
companions to Villeneuve St. Georges, not receive Your Excellency in a place
where, M. Favre tells us. he was ushered more worthy of him. Perhaps, how-
into a deserted house, and a guard was ever, ruins are not entirely without some
placed at his door, with orders under no relation to the conversation that 1 have
circumstances to let him go out. Thai had the honor to ask for. They show
evening M. Favre was the unwilling with eloquence the extent of the mis-
guest of a German General, who did his fortunes to which I would like to put an
best to be civil to the Republican envoy, end. We will, if Your Excellency will
and, meantime, M. Favre indited a polite allow, fry to install ourselves here to
note to Count Von Bismarck, who was begin our conversation.'
then at Meaux. An officer set off post- "'No,' said Count Bismarck ;' there
haste for Meaux with the message, and is probably a house in a better condition
came back at. six
the officer o'clock on somewhere in the neighborhood, and one
the morning of the 19th. In his answer, that would be litter for our conference.'
• ;
Yes.' said one of the peasants, two gentlemen proceeded to business.
•
about ten minutes from here is the M. Favre briefly stated that his situation
Chateau de la Haute Maison. I will and that of his colleagues were perfectly
show you the way there.' As they clear. They had not overthrown the
walked towards the chateau. Count Vou Emperor's government, lie had fallen
Bismarck said, 'This spot seems as if it by his own folly ; and though they came
were made for the exploits of your to [xiwer as his successors, they only did
Francs-Tireurs. The neighborhood is it in obedience to supreme necessity.
infested with them, and wc hunt them " It is to the nation," said M. Favre,
down pitilessly. They are not soldiers, " that it belongs to decide upon the
and we treat them like assassins.' form of government that it wishes to
'•
But,' said M. Fane, with anima-
•
live under, and on the conditions of
tion, they are Frenchmen, who are
'
peace. It is for that reason that we
defending their country, their homes, have called upon itan expression of
for
and their hearth-stones. They rebel opinion; and I have come to ask you if
against your invasion they certainly ; you are willing that the nation should be
have a right to do so. and you override interrogated, or if you are making war
the laws of war in refusing their applica- upon it with the intention of destroying
tion to these Francs-Tireurs.' it, or to impose a government upon it.
" '
We can only recognize,' said Bis- In this case I must observe to Your
marck, •
soldiers who are under regular Excellency that we have decided t<> de-
"
discipline : all the others are outlaws.' fend ourselves to the death. Paris and
M. Favre reminded him of the edicts her forts can resist for three months.
published in Prussia in 1813, and the Y'our country naturally suffers by the
"Holy Crusade" preached against the presence of her armies on our territory;
French. " That is true," said Bismarck ;
a war of extermination would be fatal
" and our trees have kept the marks of to both countries; and I think that by a
the ropes with which your generals hung little
g 1-will we can prevent further
our citizens upon them." disaster by an honorable peace."

When they reached the chateau they Count Vou Bismarck said that he
sat down in one of the rooms ; but Bis- asked for nothing but peace. Germany,
marck was ill at east'. He said. " We for that matter, had not troubled peace.
are very poorly placed here. Your "•You," he said, •declared war upon us
Francs-Tireurs might get good aim at, me without any motive, entirely for the pur-
through these windows, and," writes M. pose of taking a portion of our territory.
Favre, as I expressed my astonishment In doing that, you had been faithful to
and my incredulity. '•
I must lieu you," your past. .Since Louis XIV. 's time,
continued he, " to tell the people of this you had never ceased to aggrandize
house you are a member of the
that yourselves at our expense. We know
government, and that you order them to that you will never give up this policy.
keep a strict watch, and that they must Whenever you get your strength back
answer with their heads for any criminal you will make war upon us again. Ger-
attempt." many has not sought this occasion, but
After these little precautions, natural has seized upon it for her security, anil
enough on the part of the Prussian that security can be guaranteed only by
Chancellor in an enemy's country, the a cession of territory. Strasbourg is a
272 EURorE j.v storm and calm.
perpetual threat against us. It is the the Press, and the warlike enthusiasm
key of our house, and we waul it." in the Corps Legislatif when the deela-
M. Favre said: ration of war was made.
• Then, ii is Alsace and Lorraine, M. Favre. having ventured rather
Count Von Bismarck?" timidly to inquire whether the Prussians
"I have said nothing about Lorraine; were aiming at a Bouapartist restoration,
but, as to Alsatia, I will speak plainly: Bismarck spoke out impetuously : ••What
we regard it as absolutely indispensable concern of ours isyour form of govern-
to our defence." incut ? It' WC thought Napoleon most
M. Favre remarked that this sacrifice favorable to our interests we would bring
would inspire in France sentiments of him back; but we leave von the choice
vengeance and hatred, which would of your internal administration. What
fatally bring about another war : -VI- we want is our own safety, and we can
satia wished toremain French; that she never have it without we have tin* key
might he conquered but could not be as- of the house. That condition is abso-
sinhlated and that the province would
; lute; and I regret that nothing in it can
he a source of embarrassment and, per- he changed."
haps, of weakness to Germany. From this point the conversation took
Bismarck saiddeny he did not a sharper turn. M. Favre continued to
this; but he repeated that, whatever dwell upon the necessity of bringing the
might happen, and even if France were war to a close, and preventing the enor-
geuerously treated by the conqueror, she mous losses which both nations must suf-
would dream of war against Ger-
still fer if hostilities were prolonged. Bis-
manv. She would not accept the capit- marck insisted that all this had been
ulation of Sedan any more than that of foreseen by the Germans, ami that they
Waterloo and of Sadowa. "All our preferred to suffer it rather than to have
country is in mourning our industry is ; their children take up the task. "For
suffering greatly; we have made enor- that matter," he said, "our position is
mous sacrifices, and we do not mean to not so difficult as von seem to think it
begin again to-morrow," he concluded. is; we can content ourselves with tak-
M. Favre endeavored to modify the ing a fort, — and no one of them can hold
harshness of Bismarck's opinions, asking out for more than four days, and from —
him to bear in mind the great change in that fort we can dictate our terms to
national manners since the begiuning of Paris."
the centurv. and that wars were, by M. Favre cried out against the horrors
modern science and bv the obligation of of the bombardment of a huge capital
international interests, rendered more tilled with innocent and defenceless
and more impossible; that France had people as well as with soldiers. " I do
received a cruel lesson, bv which she not say," said Bismarck, "that we shall
would profit all the more because she had make an assault on Paris. It will prob-
lieen forced into this adventure against ably suit us better to starve it out, while
her will. we move about in your provinces, where

Count Von liisi vk objected to this, no army certainly can stop us. Stras-
affirming that Fiance wanted the war home will fall on Friday, Toul, perhaps
against Germany. He passed in review a little sooner: Marshal Bazaine his
the old vindictive feeling, the attitude of eaten his mules; he has now begun on
his horses, and pretty soon he will have frain from indulging in a few personal
to capitulate. After investing' Paris, impressions Count Von Bismurck.
of
we can cut off all its supplies with a ''Although he was then," says the Re-
cavalry eighty thousand strong ; and we publican Minister of Foreign Affairs,
have made up our minds to stay here as " in his fifty-eighth year, Bismarck ap-
long as is necessary." pealed to he in the full force of his
M. Favrc continued to plead for the talent. His lofty stature, his powerful
convocation of a French assembly with head, his strongly marked features, gave
which the Germans could treat, and him at once an imposing and a harsh
begged him, in the event of such a con- aspect, which was nevertheless tem-
vocation to offer acceptable conditions pered by natural simplicity, amounting
and to make a solid peace. almost to good-nature. His greeting
Bismarck answered that an armistice was courteous and grave, absolutely
would he necessary to do all that, and free from any affectation or stiffness.
he did not want one at any price. So soon as conversation was begun he
By this time it was quite dark, and assumed a benevolent and interrogative
the two gentlemen separated. Bis- air, that he kept up the whole time.
marck, as he was taking leave of Jules He certainly looked upon me as a

Favre, said, " I am willing to recognize negotiator unworthy of him; but he had
that you have always sustained the the politeness not to manifest this senti-
policy you defend to-day. If I
that ment, and appeared interested by my
were sure that this policy were that of sincerity. As for myself I was imme-
France, I would engage the King to diately struck by the clearness of his
retire without touching your territory ideas, the rigidity of his good sense,
or asking you for a penny and I ; and the originality of his mind. The
am so familiar with his generous senti- absence of all pretence in him was not
ments that I could guarantee his ac- the least remarkable. I judged him to
ceptance of such terms in advance. be a politician, far superior to all that
But you represent an imperceptihle had been thought of him, taking into
minority. You spring out of a popular account only what was, preoccupied
movement, which may upset you to- with positive and practical solutions,
morrow. We have no guarantee, there- indifferent to all which did not lead up
fore. We should not have any from to a useful end. Since that time
the government which might take your I have seen much of him, we have
place. The evil lies in the mercurial treated many questions of detail to-
and unreflecting character of your coun- gether, and I have always found him
try. The remedy is in the material the same. . . . He is fully con-
guarantee that, we have a right to take. vinced of his own personal value. He
You had no scruples about taking the wishes to give himself entirely to the
hanks of the Rhine from us, although work in which he has had such prodig-
the Rhine is not your natural frontier. ious success, and if, in order to cany it
We take back from you what was ours, on, he must go further than he would
and we think that we shall thus assure like, or not so far as he could wish, he
peace." would resign himself to the situation.
M. Favre, in giving an account of his Nervous and impressionable, he is al-
mission to his colleagues, could not re- ways master of his subject. I have
often heard reports of his excessive we might have been two sincere allies ;
sharpness ; but lie never deceived me. and we could have handled Europe at
He has often wounded me. I have our will. He tried to deceive everybody :
revolted against his exactions and his so I trusted in him no longer ; but I did
harshness ; but, in great as in little not wish to light him. I proved it in
things, 1 have always recognized him 1867, at the time of the Luxembourg
as straightforward and punctual." affair. All the King's party clamored for
The interview was resumed at Fer- war. I alone repelled the notion. I
rieres, in the evening. "I was re- even offered my resignation ; gravely
ceived," said M. Favre, " in a great injured my credit. I only mention these
parlor on the ground floor, called the things to prove to you that the war was
Salle de Chasse. The Prussian field- not my making. I would certainly never
post was already established there. have undertaken it, if it had not been
The registries, stamps, the letter-boxes declared against us."
were all arranged with the same pre- Then he gave M. Favre a picturesque
cision as in Berlin. Everything went account of the negotiations, in which M.
on without noise, without confusion; Benedetti played so disastrous a part,
each one had his place. Bismarck was called the Duke of Gramont "a mediocre
still at table. lie came down to ask diplomat," said that Kinile ( (llivier was
me to partake of his repast, which I an •• orator and not a statesman ;
" finally,
declined. .Shortly afterwards we belie added that if the Germans had any
gan to converse together." interest in maintaining the Napoleonic
Among Bismarck's remarks that even- dynasty they would put it back at once ;
ing many were very noteworthy. He the same for the Orleans family; the
seemed to attach great importance to the same for M. De Chambord, who would
violence of the French press, the offen- be much more to their taste. "As for
sive caricatures and railleries of Ger- myself," said the Chancellor, " I am en-
many, and them the
to draw from tirely out of the question. I am even a
conclusion that the nation was persist- Republican, and 1 hold that there is no
ently hostile, and could not lie corrected good government if it does not come
in its sentiments. After a time, M. directly from the people, only each peo-
Favre, speaking with extreme frankness, ple must shape itself to its necessity,
accused the Chancellor of being the and to the national manners."
instrument of the Imperial party, which The question of an armistice was again
he had the design of imposing anew raised that evening ; but no further prog-
upon the French nation. ress was made than this, that Bis-
" You are entirely mistaken," said marck would consult the King, ami that
Bismarck. " I have no serious reason for he personally wanted a guarantee for -he
likingNapoleon III. I do not say that neutrality of Paris during an armistice
itwould not have been handy for me to in which an assembly should lie invoked.
have kepi him in his place, and you have The next day, at eleven o'clock, M.
done a had turn to your country by upset- Favre anxiously waited the result of
ting him. It would certainly have been Bismarck's interview with the King.
possible for us to treat with him ; but, " At half-past eleven." says M.
personally, I have never been able to say Favre, " he sent me word that he was at
much good of him. If he had wished it liberty. 1 found him seated at a desk,
" :
EUROPE W STORM AND CALM. 275
in a large and magnificent parlor on the Bismarck them down. In a short

to lay
first floor of the chdteau. He came for- time Count returned, also with a
the
ward meet me, and,
to leading me up to written statement, and they compared
his desk, showed me the Journal pour notes.
Mire and another paper, which had not M. Favre had set down as a guarantee
been placed there without a motive. given by Paris of her continued neutral-
" '
Here,' he said, ' look at the proof ity during the armistice these words
of your pacificand moderate inten- "A fort in the neighborhood of Paris."
tions !' " and he showed M. Favrc
numerous caricatures representing
Prussia in the most hateful shapes.
After he had dwelt on this long
enough to rouse M. Favre's temper,
the latter said that lie wished to
come to the point at once. " You
have spoken with the King ; I
would like to know the result of
your conversation."
" The King," said Bismarck,
"accepts an armistice under the
conditions and with tiie object that
we have agreed upon. As I have
already told you we ask for the
occupation of all the fortresses
besieged in the Vosges, that of
Strasbourg, and the garrison of
that place as prisoners of war."
This led to an animated discussion,
which, at two or three points, was
in danger of being interrupted by
violence of feeling. On each of ^f
these occasions Bismarck would
say, " Let us try a new combina- BISMARCK (Military). 1870.
tion ; let us look for a combination."

M. Favre told him that the people of "That is not it at all," said Bismarck,
France would never consent to the sur- quickly. " I did not say a fort I might ;
render of the troops in the garrison of ask you for a number of forts. 1 want
Strasbourg, in view of the heroic defense particularly one that controls the town,
which they were then making. "It — Mont Valerieu, for instance."
would be cowardly," he said. M. Favre made no answer. Bismarck
Bismarck declared his willingness to continued:"The King accepts the com-
talk over the matter again with the King, bination of a meeting of the Assembly
and went to do so. "While the Chancellor at Tours, for instance ; but he insists
was gone, M. Favre sat at a table and that the garrison of Strasbourg shall be
wrote out the substance of the conditions given upas prisoners of war."
of an armistice as he had understood At this point, by his own confession,
27G EUROPE IN STORM AXD CALM.
M. Favrc's courage broke down. He pulsion, and lie hero to-morrow; in the
rose, and turned away his bead, that the contrary eas \ I shall have the honor to
enemy might not: ee his tears. " But," lie write you. I am very unhappy, hut full
says, '•
it was (lie affair of a second; of hope.' "
and, recovering my calm, I said, ' For- Bismarck himself appeared some-
give me, Count, this moment of weak- what agitated. He extended his hand
ness. I am ashamed to have let you to Favrc, addressed him a few polite
witness it ; but my sufferings are such words, and M. Favrc turned his hack
that I am excusable for having yielded. upon the enemy.
I must now beg permission to retire. I He reached Paris just in time to hear
have made a mistake in coming here, but the excited comments of his colleagues
upon the shameful retreat of the
French troops from Chatillon.
But the decision that Bismarck's
terms were too harsh, and could
not lie accepted, was unanimous;
ami next day the Prussian Chan-
cellor received a note, stating this
fact.
On the evening of the 20th of

September, the famous proclama-
tion, in which the government of
National Defense declared that it
would yield to the enemy " neither

an inch of French territory nor
a stone of French fortresses," was
posted on the walls of Paris; and
on the 21st of September Gam-
betta, as Minister of the Interior,
issued an address in which he
reminded the people ••
That sev-
BISMARCK (Civilian). 1884.
enty-eight years before, on that
day, their fathers had founded the
I am not sorry. I obeyed a sentiment Republic, and had taken a solemn oath,
of duty, and nothing less than imperious in the presence of the invader, to live
necessity could have made me suffer the free or to die in combat. They kept
tortures imposed upon me. I shall their oath ; they conquered, and the
faithfully report to the government all Republic of 1793 has remained in the
the details of our conversation. Person- memory of men a symbol of heroism and
ally I thank you for the kindness with national grandeur. The government
which you have received and I shall it, installed at the Hotel de Ville, amid the
remember it. If my government esteems enthusiastic, cries of Vive la Republique,
that there is anything to do in the inter- could not let this glorious anniversary
est of peace, witli the conditions you pass without saluting it as a great ex-
have laid down, I shall overcome my re- ample."
So wrote Gambetta, who was so soon Paris suffered siege.Within the walla
afterwards to limit' italic his mission of and without a constant succession ot
organizing the national defence in that tragic and romantic events occurred.
part of the country as yet free from Let us now pass the most important of
Hit' invader. them in review.
For four months thereafter the city of
CHAPTER TWENTY-NINE.
The Army of Strasbourg. — General Uliricb ami the Fortress which had to defend. — The Forts. — The
lie
Cathedral. — Fire and Bombardment. — The Tyranny of the Mob — Immense Destruction. — Loss of
one of the most Valuable Libraries in the World. — German Siege Tactics. — The spectacle after the
Surrender.
WE have already seen that Jules

Favre, in his report made to his
city,
to
which they regarded as belonging
Day after day the little
Germany.
colleagues of the government of National German papers published extravagant
Defence, after his visit to Count Bismarck announcements of the coming assault
at Ferrieres, spoke of the Chancellor as upon Strasbourg, an assault which —
very stern remarks about Stras-
in all his never came. At Appenweier, where
bourg. " It is the key of the house," said the railway branches off to Kehl and
Bismarck, " and I must have it." Jules Strasbourg, I found the transportation
Favre was not slow to perceive that Bis- of troops to and from the front in rapid
marck meant by this that Strasbourg was progress, and the delays for civilians
to he comprised in the new Germany were interminable.
which he was carving out, with so much To travel through the lovely land in
Labor and at sucdi an expense lit' Mood the peaceful September did not remind
and treasure. Time and time again, as the one much of war-time. The dark high-
pitiless German laid down his conditions hinds of tin' Schwartzwald loomed up
for the armistice which the French felt. peacefully to the left; and on the right,
was necessary to their cause, the occu- in the broad, fruitful valley of the
pation of Strasbourg, of Totil, and of Rhine, few soldiers were to lie seen.
Phalsbourg was insisted upon in the At Rastadt there was a solitary senti-
sharpest terms. Once M. Favre lost nel ; but on tile broad plain before
patience, and said, " It is much more the town an immense number of earth-
simple to ask us for Paris ;
" but Bis- works showed what tremendous prepa-
marck, speaking of Strasbourg, said, "the ration had been made for the French,
town is sure to fall into our hands. whose first entry into Germany was
It is no longer anything but a matter of expected to be upon this vale, so often
calculations." devastated in past times by French
Iwent down from Frankfort to Stras- armies.
bourg in September, when the German The people of Baden were so delighted
bombardment had been in progress ful- at being relieved from the threatened
some twenty days, and was no little invasion (for during the days following
surprised to find that I was only one of the battles of Weissenburg, Saarbn'icken,
thousands of pilgrims. The inhabitants and Woerth they were in mortal terror)
of Baden, Wurtemburg, and the sections that they emptied cellar and kitchen in
in theneighborhood of the Rhine, looked order to firing the passing troops refresh-
on with grim delight tit the steadily prose- ments and them on to the fight.
to cheer
cuted operations for the recovery of the What the French might have done in
Baden if they had been better prepared, village was occupied by officers, and
it was easy to see but they contented; the police had kindly issued orders
themselves with cutting the bridge over that no strangers should be allowed to
the Rhine and waiting the onslaught of remain there over night so, had it not
;
their enemies. been for the kindness of a neighbor, we

A little rough riding in a peasant's should not have been able to secure our
wagon was necessary iu order to get to sixth of the one sleeping-room, with
Auerheim, whence the best view of quarters on some doubtful straw. All
" Strasbourg iu flames," as the Baden ers night the village streets resounded with
called it, was to be had. The journey the hum of the voices of the peasants
occupied about two hours, across a well- and strangers, who were coming and
cultivated country ; and, although it was going on their excursions to the best
quite late, the villagers came out from points for seeing the conflagration. The
all the sleepy little dorfs to stare at the following morning broke night and 1
strangers who had come to see the bom- fresh as spring, and I engaged my host
bardment. The scene was, indeed, worth to lead me as near as possible to the
a rough day's ride on the railway and German batteries at Kehl. The little,
the fatigue. At nightfall the whole sky river Kinsig flows hard by, and from its
above (Strasbourg was illuminated by high banks a good view of a portion of
fires raging in one of the poorer Strasbourg and of Kehl is obtained.
quarters. It was a fearful sight to see, The highest spire of the cathedral, four
though the peasant driver said that a miles distant, was superbly illuminated
few evenings previous no less than half- by the glow of the morning sun. I had
a-dozen quarters had been blazing. The been told in Frankfort that it had been
flames had been seen for over twenty destroyed; and, indeed, the German
miles. He also said that in Auerheim officers confessed to me that it had been
the screams and the lamentations of the fired upon from Kehl, but only because
inhabitants of Strasbourg were often the commandant of the city had persisted
heard. This sounded somewhat apocry- in making the platform at the foot of
phal, but he insisted upon the truth of the single tower the place for an observa-
it, gesticulating with his long porce- tory. So accurately had the shot been
lain pipe as he pointed to the great sent thatit had passed over the platform
tower of the cathedral, which loomed up without damaging the tower. This l
'
vast and dim against the lurid back- was," said my informant, " the only
ground. Now and then a blaze of more time the sacred edifice had been fired
than ordinary intensity was seen, denot- upon and this was a case of necessity,
;
ing the fall of some building, and this since by this means the French com-
would be followed by a momentary mandant might have held communication
gloom. The regular booming of the with the mountains in the rear of the
cannon was faintly heard. city, and overseen the entire movements
About ten at night we drove forward made by the forces in Baden and AI-
to the entrance of the little village of satia. The platform is two hundred
Auerheim, where there was a picket sta- and twenty-eight feet above the ground,
tioned. This picket halted the driver, commanding every part of the city and
but was easily pacified by cigars and fortifications, aud the mountain passes
small coins. The only hotel in the of the Black Forest and the Vosges."
280 EUROPE IX STORM AM> CALM.
The famous tower of the Strasbourg watcher on the banks of the Rhine.
Cathedral reaches a height of four hun- Vauban secured the possession of Alsatia
dred and eight} -six feet above the pave-
-
to France by laying cut a number of
incut, ami is, next to the Pyramid of fortified places, furts, and citadels: in
Cheops, the highest edifice in the world, flic south, against Switzerland, Ilun-
The German guns were busy, although ningen, which was rased in 1815 ; in the
itwas scarcely dawn, and were pounding north, Weissenburg, and the so-called
away at the citadel, which lay nearer t<> Weissen line; and the centre of the
them than tiic church hut the peasants ;
whole system of fortifications was Stras-
were at work in their fields, or engaged bourg. The chief disadvantage of the
with the hemp in tin 1
standing waters, city as a military fort was the fact that
ami sentinels, with a business-like air, it was on a plain. The German military
warned the visitors not to enter within authorities say that, had it been placed
the line of lire. Kehl was lint a few about fifty kilometres further back,
hundred yards to our left and the firing . somewhere in the neighborhood of Sa-
from the batteries there could he easily verne, the declivities of the Vosges would
followed, the sound of the explosion of have been a protection, and would have
shells falling in the streets being dis- naturally given it a dominant position.
tinctly heard, although we could not The only means of getting a wide view
observe their effect, because of the Long from the town is by climbing the minster
rows of poplar trees. Across the Rhine tower. The town's only advantage is
the Prussian batteries in Schiltigheim, that it has an entire command of the
Ruprechtsau, and Bischheim kept up a Rhine, though distant about seven and
monotonous refrain. The officer with one-half miles, and situated on the 111,
whom 1 was in conversation said that one of the tributaries of thatriver. The
nearly live hundred cannon and mortars Rhine is here divided into three arms,
were in position, although at that mo- and Strasbourg itself is built upon an
incut the firing was very slack. Fifty island formed by them. A canal con-
thousand Baden and Prussian troops nects the city with the Rhine, and, by
were constantly under arms, waiting for obstructing the former, water is sent
a breach to be made in the walls. They into the ditches of tin' fortress, thus
seemed to have little confidence in Gen- making the city more capable of defense,
oral Ullrich's defiant statement that he The fortification system was generally
would hold the town so long as a soldier thought to he excellent, especially the
and a biscuit were left. fortified enceinteand citadel. Towards

Strasbourg had at the time of the the Vosges there was a strong line of
bombardment a population of over eighty defence, with two projecting bastions
thousand souls, half of whom were Plot- and two forts at the ends; in the north,
estants, and was justly considered the Fort, Pierre, and in the south. Fort
most important fortress in Alsatia. secur- Blanc. This part of the fortress was
ing the hitter's possession ; and, in the only entered by the railway and by the
hands of the French, being the base of Saverne gate, the latter being well pro-
operation-, for the campaign in Baden teeted. The two side lines of the city,
and the Palatinate. It was the farther- which is almost triangular in shape, w ere
most outpost in France towards the Fast, about equally protected. The southern
the protectoress of Alsatia, and the one, from Fort Plane as far as the cita-
del, was provided with natural protec- defeat were sent to the commandant of
tions. The ramparts were built on a Strasbourg, in the hope that he might be
level, cut by the 111 and the ditches, the influenced to yield the town. But he
entrance into the fortress being through had received the most encouraging prom-
the Hospital and the Austerlitz Gates. ises of immediate aid from Talis, and to
Behind the ramparts lay the forage all the threats of bombardment and
magazines, the military prison, and the assault responded by a cool and contin-
Austerlitz Barracks. The northern side, uous negative. Von Werder

General
from Fort Pierre to the citadel, com- at once began the bombardment. The
manded the two suburbs of Robertsau town was invested upon the 12th of
and Les Contades, and a small island. August and for nearly forty da\ s there-
;
The citadel, built by Vauban in 1682- after a rain of shell and shot from the
8.3, was separated by an esplanade from iron throats of more than live hundred
the city, and could contain defensive cannon fell upon the terror-stricken in-
material for a number of months. But, habitants. Commandant Uhrich sent

as we have already seen, it was too word to the German commander that he
poorly equipped with arms, artillery, etc. felt called upon, as an act of reprisal for
It was pentagonal in shape, provided the bombardment of the city, of which
with five bastions had barracks for
; he had not been notified, to direct his
ten thousand men and fifteen hundred guns upon the little town of Kehl, which
horses and at the beginning of the siege
;
contains about two thousand inhabitants,
is said to have had within its walls about most of the houses being small peasants'
four thousand National Guards, two thou- cottages. The Germans had one battery
sand < i two thousand artil-
aiiles Mobiles, at a short distance to the left of this
lery, fifteenhundred men from regiments village, which was otherwise totally un-
of the line, a great number of mules and fortified. In the little church were a
Arab horses, which had been collected number of wounded. From the roof the
with the view of an expedition into Ger- flag was floating.
of the sanitary corps
many ; and. upon its walls, had some The Germans were unanimous in say-
three or four hundred rather antiquated ing that on this building the first shots
cannon. of the French guns were directed, and
When the army of MacMahon had been that in a short time the church was set
defeated two in the battles of Weissen- on fire. Had it not been for the heroism
bnrg and Woerth, the commandant of of the local farmers the wounded sol-
Strasbourg was requested by Lieutenant- diers would have been burned alive. All
General Von Werder to capitulate. In the inhabitants of the village lied, leav-
truth a less brave man than General ing their houses and property unpro-
Uhrich might have hesitated to under- tected. Many houses were blown to
take the defence of a city which had for pieces by shells, ami the public buildings
its garrison only the rabble of retreat- were completely wrecked.
ing liners, chasseurs-b-pied, artillery-men, General Yon Werder then sent a pro-
and Tnrcos, who had been routed in the tect to the commander of Strasbourg,
Woerth, and had fled
terrible night after saving that his guns, in violation of the
to the nearest fortress. The summons law of nations, had beeu directed against
to surrender was issued on the 8th day the unfortified and open town of Kehl
of August. The reports of MacMahon's without previous intimation. Such a
method of making war, he continued, was Northern Germany, and the city was
unheard of amongst civilized nations, placed under lire on all sides.
and must induce him to make General Thenceforward, from the date of my
Uhrich personally responsible for the con- visit until the surrender, the condition
sequences of the act. Apart from this of the town, the garrison, and the inhabi-
he should cause the damage done to be tants was frightful. The soldiers were
assessed, and should seek compensation no longer subordinate, and the better
for it by means of contributions levied class of citizens, seeing a threatened
in Alsatia. This note was issued on the danger, pleaded that their city might be
19th of August, and greatly embittered spared ; but the mob ruled everywhere
the feeling on both sides. The damage outside the fortress. The commandant
done in Kehl was, in fact, assessed, and began measures for the expulsion
to take
a report was sent in to the German gov- of the Germans, who formed a part of
ernment. The Germans had not, up to the population; and, on the morning of
this date, made preparations for a long or the 21st, one hundred Germans, who
serious siege, since large forces were at hail been serving in the Algerian Foreign
their onnnand and the army of defense

< ; Legion, were ordered to leave the city.
opposing them consisted, as they knew, The gates were opened, and ten were
of hut ten thousand men. The Stras- s< nt out at each gate, so say the German
bourgers had been wise enough to call in accounts, with the threat that if they
immense quantities of provisions from looked back they would at mire be shot
the neighborhood before the investment down. These unfortunate men were
was complete; but they found them- placed in an insecure position. They
selves embarrassed by the presence of found themselves between two tires:
thousands of villagers and mountaineers being dressed in their French uniforms

who flocked in. It was estimated that they were marks for the Germans, ami
in three days before the 19th of August if they attempted to regain the French
twenty thousand villagers came in for lines they were sure of being shot.
protection. General Uhrich found him- Most of them saved their lives by run-
self with a hundred thousand people ning straight into the German lines.
under his protection, and with an over- Two of them were natives of Pomerania,
whelming force of besiegers, assembled and, oddly enough, fell into the hands
before his town. of a Pomeranian regiment. The children

On and 19th of
the night of the 18th in the streets pointed out the Germans
August heavy cannonading was kept up who did not speak the dialect; and all
on both sides, and immense damage was these were arrested as suspected of pos-
done to the city of Strasbourg. The sible collusion with the enemy. Among
guns threw into the fortress a perfect the persons thus arrested were many
hail-storm of bombs and cannon-balls. Pomeranian brewers, men who were —
On the evening of the 19th the fortifi- taken oil' their wagons and sent immedi-
cation caught lire iii many places ; but ately to prison. Men sent out by the
the Strasbourg garrison worked well, Charitable Society of Lausanne, in Switz-
the guns being valiantly manned and erland, were arrested as spies, and
directed by artillery-menwho had served imprisoned. A young German officer,
their time in the French army. On the who was captured by some French
20th a powerful siege train arrived from pickets, and escorted into the city, was
literally torn to pieces by the excited for the group of besieged, for, on
little
mob. His head was cut off and stuck the morning of the 24th, no less than
upon a pole, and carried in triumph, the live hundred cannon outside were manned,
mob following, shouting, singing, and and fifty thousand troops awaited the
cursing the besiegers. signal for assault. The Germans, with
It was a fearful time for the peace- singular, although perhaps with uncon-
ably inclined citizens, who desired any- scious, insolence, asked General Uhrich
thing rather than the unchecked license to come out, or send one of his officers,
of their own mob. The stories of the to see the preparations which had been
cruel treatment of German prisoners made for the bombardment. This he
reached the besiegers' lines, and hun- refused to do, saying that it was never
dreds of shells were thrown into the popu- possible for him to inspect the German
lous quarters, where they were expected forces until those forces had capitulated.
to reach and punish the rioters. He added that he was determined to de-
On 22d of August the Germans re-
the fend himself to the last man and the last
ceived reinforcements from Rastadt, and cannon-ball.
more heavy guns came also from Cologne During the whole of the 24th a, terrific
and from Ulm. Commander Ullrich was cannon duel was kept up, and at five
informed that a breach would be shortly o'clock on the following morning the
made in the walls, and the city stormed ;
firing ceased, from pure exhaustion on
that an assault would be postponed as long both sides. The right side of the cita-
as possible, since the German victories del of Strasbourg was almost entirely
elsewhere must show the uselessness of destroyed, and half-a-dozen fires were
longer obstinacy, and King William had burning in various quarters. The next
ordered that the commander of the be- night the Germans sent ten or fifteen
sieging forces should spare his men as shells per minute into the city. All
much as possible, and sin mid do the city night the sky was lighted by the
and its inhabitants the least amount of flames of burning Kehl, Robertsau,
injury consistent with coercion. It was Schiltgheim, and Konigenhof, which had
at this time that the Germans noticed been fired by the French, and at mid-
the splendid point of observation which night the moon was obscured by the
Commander Uhrich had on the cathe- smoke above the burning city of Stras-
dral ; so he was informed that, if he did bourg. The peasants of the surrounding
not at once clear his instruments away villages assembled in thousands to watch
from the church, the grand old edifice the flames and to listen to the cannon-
would be bombarded, despite its sacred ading. The fires were seen, nearly forty
character. On day General Uhrich
this miles away, by the inhabitants of the
asked that the women and children Black Forest. The whole of the Stein-
might be allowed to pass out ; but, as strasse, the Blau-Wolkenstrasse, and
the German commander desired to exer- the new church of St. Peter were in
cise moral pressure upon the garrison, Barnes. From time to time it looked at
he refused to allow this. He permitted if the old church were burning, the
General Uhrich to send a letter to his tower seeming to be glowing red, aud
wife. A great number of Germans were the flames appearing to run along it as
at this from the city.
period expelled if sporting with the sacred building.
The 24th of August was an anxious day The soldiers of Kehl could read ordinary
284 EUROPE IS STORM AND CALM.
print at :i distanca of four miles from jured by shells. The IIAtel de Ville is
binning Strasbourg. The wind blew shattered ; the Council Hall isdevastated ;
westward, carrying the flames into the many private residences have become the
most populous quarters. Firemen and prey of the flames. Shells last night fell
citizens worked desperately to stay by dozens and by hundreds in :i single
the progress of the flames; while the street; and as soon as a fire was lighted
mob, completely beyond control, ran up projectiles were poured like hail upon
through the streets, robbing and plunder- the spot, no doubt for the purpose of
ing the unprotected, and breaking into preventing the workers from getting the
deserted houses. flames under. The whole city is heaped
This night of the 24th of August made with wreck, and the roofs, chimneys, and
a profound impression upon the besieged facades of the houses are damaged on
inhabitants. The leading local news- all sides."
paper, in its issue of the 25th, contains Even this pathetic description fails to
the following :•• What ruin ami mourning ! give an idea of the reality during the
At eight o'clock las; night the enemy dreadlul night. The citizens fled into
began a terrific lire, destroying fortunes, their cellars, many into the very sewers,
treasures, and grand works of art. What in order to save themselves from the
losses shall we mention first? The Pub- shells. Thousands, however, had no
lie Library, the Temple Neuf, the Mu- such place of refuge. They ran about
seumof Painting? Most splendid houses, the streets hall' crazy.
in the liue^t quarter, are now only heaps During the night the heroic little gar-
of blackened ruins. The Public Library, rison made a sally, which was repelled
so famous throughout Europe, contained by the Germans with great loss to the
books and manuscript, the most unique in French. In the morning the command-
the world, the result of centuries of labor, ant sent a parl&mentaire to ask for lint
patience, and perseverance. Nothing and bandages for the wounded, since he
now remains but a few parchments, had none; and he added that from five
The site is covered with ruins, and all to six hundred citizens had been wounded
that we can find is the carbonized cover by exploding shells, and by the beams
of one or two books in a corner. Of the from falling houses. .Many lay buried
Church of the New Temple, which was beneath the ruins, where they must
the largest Protestant place of worship remain, as there was no time to rescue
in Strasbourg, with its splendid organ them. A shell fell into a girls' school,
and renowned mural paintings, the four killing seven girls, and severely wound-
walls alone remain. The Art Museum ing many others. Still the commandant
at Annette is entirely destroyed. The would not listen to the word capitulation,
Cathedral has hitherto only escaped by but demanded to be allowed to leave the
miracle. This morning, again, some fortress with all military honors. The
fragments of sculpture and stone from burgomaster to the cita-
citizens sent the
the walls were found scattered about the del to plead with General Uhrieh, but
ground, showing that a cannon-ball had the General sent him back again with the
struck our magnificent Monument, one — intimation that he would shoot any citi-
of the glories of the world. The Notre zen who attempted to resist his au-
Dame Asylum, one of the noblest monu- thority.
ments of the middle ages, has been in- On the 26th of August the inhab-
a
itants of the city sent the Bishop of his return to the lines the Gen lan
Strasbourg to plead with the German batteries at once opened lire upon the
commander. The bishop entered a fortifications and the city as a retalia-

little village where lie was met by tion of what they considered a very
the chief of the Prussian staff. The grave breach of military law.
good bishop first expressed his con- And in the midst of such horrors
viction that the bombardment of the the month was slowly wearing away.
city was not justified by the military General Uhrich was, indeed, made of
code, ami begged that it should be heroic stuff, for the bravest heart must
brought to a speedy termination. The have faltered now and then as it saw
chief of the Prussian staff replied that that all the promises of help from Paris
if France had ever entertained the in- were in vain, and that in front was a
tention of uniting to the defense of the constantly increasing inimical force, —
city the greatest possible care for its whole nation, to take back what it con-
safety and that of its inhabitants, she sidered its own, and pitiless because
would have built the fortifications so of the memories of past defeats and
that the great points of defense would humiliations, which had been inflicted
have been concentrated in the outer upon it by the enemy now in its power.
works. The old method of laying out The very elements seemed to be
the defence placed great difficulties in against the unhappy citizens of Stras-
the way of storming, which could only bourg. Thunder-storms roared and
lie removed by simultaneously firing poured daily over the doomed city and ;
upon the city. He added that, in order the wretched people who had been living
to give the Imperial French prints some- in cellars were driven out of them by tin'
thing to say, the undefended town

little rising of the Rhine. Hundreds fled t<>
of Saaibriieken had been bombarded. the cathedral, and took refuge within its
The bishop, discovering that there was massive walls. A Strasbourg lady, who
not much hope of an agreemi nt with fled to Pasle with her two children after
the obstinate German, timidly requested the night of the 24th, described the citi-
that all the civilian inhabitants of the zens as without courage and livid with
city might be permitted to leave it. fear. Every night was a prolonged
Put this was sternly refused. Finally terror, and few of the inhabitants slept
the bishop requested the cessation of during the night hours. The German
hostilities for twenty-four hours. The firewas generally strongest from one in
chief of the Prussian staff answered the morning until I'wv or six.
that this could lie granted only on the On the 29th a tremendous sally was
assurance that General Ullrich would made by the Strasbourg garrison, but
enter into negotiations ; whereupon the it did nothing save inflict a dam-
little
bishop and the chief parted in a friendly age on the German troops, who were
manner. Put, according to the German employed iii making trenches. Still
accounts, a moment later a platoon fire the bells in the city were rung, as if in
was opened upon the chief of the Prus- celebration of a victory. But they were
sian staff, although he held in his hand funeral bells, and General Uhrich must
the parliamentary flag, which he brought have begun to foresee the end. On the
back into the lines literally pierced night after this courageous sortie the
through and through with bullets. On first parallel was opened by the Germans,
and nineteen batteries were placed in despatch, announcing a great French

position. Another sally made by the victory, in which both Steinmetz and
French, to take an advance battery, Prince Friederieh had been taken prison-
proved unsuccessful. ers, and the Crown Prince was severely
On the 30th of August the bishop wounded. A second report announced
again appeared in the German lines, and a victory at Toul, in which forty-nine
said that he was willing to undertake thousand Germans had been killed,
negotiations with General Uhrich. The thirty-live thousand wounded, and seven
Germans gave the bishop the English hundred cannon taken. Marshal Mac-
and Belgian newspapers to read, which Mahon was said to be at Chalons, with
contained accounts of the German victo- four hundred thousand men, and Alsatia
ries around Metz ; and then had him es- was to be saved in two days. The
corted hack to the town. That night all French soldiers, said the despatch, are
the German batteries increased their fire. making ramparts of the Prussian dead.
But Strasbourg was silent, and remained It was on the day following this imag-
s<>fur three days thereafter, as ils am- inary comfort, in which the poor people
munition was almost gone. of Strasbourg indulged themselves, that
At this time within the walls of Stras- the fall of Sedan was announced in
bourg potatoes were sold at 24 francs Germany but the people of Strasbourg
;
per hundred pounds; peas, at 14 sous knew nothing of this event until several
per pound, and the only meat to lie had days afterwards. The German besiegers
was horseflesh, sold at b francs per had celebrated the victory by tiring off
pound. twenty-one guns. The editor of the
The hist and crowning misfortune of Strasbourg paper wrote: "Yesterday
General Uhrich was the cutting off of the enemy's batteries fired many shells
his direct telegraphic communication into the city at regular intervals. Our
with Paris. This was accidentally ac- batteries made a vigorous reply. After
complished by a niincr in one of the Ger- the twenty-first shell was tired the Prus-
man trenches, who cut the subterranean sian guns wcif silenced."
wire with his pickaxe. On the 11th of September a delega-
On the .".1st of August the energetic tion of Swiss gentlemen arrived in Stras-
deputy, Keller, was haranguing the < 'orps bourg with permission from the Germans
Legislatif in Paris, and declaring that a to take in their train some fourteen
commission should be sent into the de- hundred persons, chiefly aged women
partment of the Upper Rhine to arouse and young children. These visitors
the populations to a man. But no help brought to the besieged the startling
came to the valiant Uhrich and his starv- news of Gravelotte of Sedan; of Ba-
;
ing men. " I will," he said, shutting his zaine Mocked up in Metz of MacMahon :
teeth hard, and glaring at the messenger defeated, and Bonaparte a prisoner in
whom the bishop had sent to him —
•• I Germany; and of the Republic pro-
will hold the place to the last stone. If claimed in Paris. The Imperial Prefect
I must withdraw into the forts I will was once impeached and deprived of
at
blow up the city if it hinders my de- his otiiee, and a municipal commission
fense." called to the mairie of the city the wise

The leading Strasbourg paper, on the ami good M. Kuss, — a Republican, who
2d of September, published a tremendous was much beloved, and who was to be
the last mayor of French Strasbourg, "27th of September the white flag was
and to have a patheticfate, as we shall hoisted. General Ullrich's proclamation,
see later on. announcing the surrender of the town,
On the 20th of September arrived in stated his belief that resistance was no
Strasbourg the new Prefect of the Lower longer possible. The poor, half-starved
Rhine, appointed by the government of inhabitants crept out from their damp
National Defense in Paris. It is doubt- cellars, from the churches, and from the
ful if any prefect ever had such diffi- board houses along the canals where
culties in arriving at his post, as fell they had taken refuge, and flocked
to the lot of this brave envoy from around the Cathedral, from the topmost
the capital, or such ingenuity in over- spire of which the flag was flying.
coming them. Disguised as a peasant On the 28th the Mayor issued his
he succeeded in reaching Schiltgheim. proclamation, announcing that the gar-

There he ran the Prussian lines, after rison would lie allowed to go out with
having worked for several days on the the honors of war, and that the German
entrenchments of the Germans in order occupation would at once begin. On
to lull any suspicions that they might the day of the capitulation the public
have, and, making his way towards the squares of Strasbourg were literally
city walls, swam across the moat, and strewn with arms, which had been broken
walking up to the sentinel, who shot and away by the angry and
thrown
twice at him, called upon him to desist. humiliatedFrench soldiers. Most of
The stupefied sentinel halted him until those men who behaved with so little
guard came to take
the officer of the good-sense were members of African
him into the town to General Uhrich. regiments, though the Mobile Guard
When he was alone with the General, and the National Guard, composed of
the new prefect ripped up one of his the citizens of Strasbourg, maintained
coat-sleeves, and from the rent in his their dignity. General Von Werderand
garment extracted the official decree his staff did not enter the city until the
which named him Prefect of Strasbourg. 30th of September, when Strasbourg was
The Germans had arranged to storm opened, as the Germans maintain, by
the city on the 30th of September, the treason, to the forty thousand invading
anniversary of Strasbourg's loss to French in 1681.
Germany A
pontoon bridge for
in 1081. The spectacle that met the eyes of the
crossing the ditch had been prepared, Germans at the close of the bombardment
and, as the storming party would have exceeded in extent all previous con-
been splendidly protected by the German ception. The two northern suburbs of
guns, an actual attack would probably Strasbourg, for a space measuring seven
not have been long resisted. General thousand feet long by eighteen hundred
Uhrich, as commander of the fortress, feet wide, according to the estimate of
well knew that the French military code the celebrated architect, Dembler, of
forbade him, under penalty, to give up Mecklenburg, were one mass of ruins.
the trust confided to him without a Only here and there a solitary wall
proper and a long resistance. To sur- stood up like a monument amid the deso-
render without a breach in the walls of lation. Heir Dembler, in his inspection
Strasbourg would have been treason to of the town, discovered that there were
France. But on the evening of the scarcely one hundred houses uninjured ;
four hundred and forty-eight were alive the French hatred of the German
totally destroyed; and more than three troops invading Alsatia was the story
thousand were riddled willi shot and shell. published throughout Fiance shortly
About fifteen thousand in the suburbs, after the triumphal entry Of the Germans
before the ramparts, were almost entirely into Strasbourg. It was to this effect:
destroyed. Of the civil population three that the commander-in-chief of the Prus-
hundred persons had been killed, and sian army, in billeting his officers and em-
seventeen hundred wounded, by the ployes upon the starved and ruined in-
bombardment. Nearly twenty thousand habitants of the city, issued the decree
persons were left without homes or that each one of the persons billeted
money and the most moderate estimates
; should have morning a breakfast,
in the
made by the Germans themselves of the composed of coffee or tea, and bread and
losses, on buildings, furniture, goods, butter; at noon a second breakfast, com-
schools, churches, the museum, the posed of soup and a solid dish of meat
theatre, the prefecture, the Hotel de and vegetables; and in the evening a
Ville, the court-house, the bridges, etc., dinner, composed of soup, two dishes of
were '_'()(). (11)0. ODD francs. The value of meat, vegetables, dessert, and coffee;
the art collections, and especially of the and, dining the day, two bottles of good
library, is incalculable. Truly the game table wine and five cigars.
of war does not pay. This was the crowning stroke.

That which contributed most to keep
EUROPE JiV STURM AXD CALM. 289
CHAPTER THIRTY.
Through the Conquered Country. — Strasbourg afterits Trial.— Eaihvay Journeys under Prussian Military
Rule. — Nancy. — The — Epernay.— The Story of Pere Jean. — Getting up to Versailles.
Bavarians.
— The Voices of the Forts.
ABOUT four o'clock in the morning, nore the fact that I was a "newspaper
some days after my first view of writer," else I should have been looked
Strasbourg under lire, I arrived at Kehl, upon with profound disdain by the olli-
where plenty of ruin had been wrought cial whom I now encountered. He soon
by the French shells. The old railway gave me a legitimalions-Kdrte, good for
station was gone, and I stood shivering the journey to Nancy and by aid of this
;
in the cold night air until we were per- I secured a place in the military train.
mitted to cross the Rhine on the pontoon- The carriages in use were nearly all
bridge, which was guarded by dozens of Prussian or Southern German, the East-
soldiers, as if the Germans anticipated ern French railway having succeeded in
the return of the French forthwith. A removing its rolling stock before the
carriage soon brought me to the interior invasion had reached its line. All
of Strasbourg. The drive from the distinction of classes was abolished for
Rhine bank to the town was through a the time being, by tacit consent, and
scene of the rudest desolation. Great Alsatian peasants occupied first-class
trees a century old lay to right and left, compartments in the railway carriages
stripped of their branches, where once for the first time, probably, in their
they had stood the lofty guardians of a lives.
graceful Houses to right ami

avenue. We moved very slowly, with frequent
in front were burned
all and seared by stops between stations, and it was wit It
hot shot and shell, and the customs build- much difficulty that the Prussian officials
ings were entirely ruined. A gentleman succeeded in making the French tinder-
who occupied the seat next me had been stand the various new regulations. A
beleaguered in the city three weeks, and railway staff hail been brought from
said that at least twenty-five hundred Germany, and either could not or would
people were either killed or wounded not communicate with the French in the
during his stay there. I took coffee French language and there were mis-
;
hastily in the little hotel next the ruined understandings and vexations innumer-
museum, and proceeded at once to the able. The train had a guard of forty or
railway station to encounter the " Etapen fifty soldiers in a front carriage, and the
Commando." The streets were crowded other travellers were officers, telegraph
with the stout soldiers of Baden, whose and postal couriers, and special messen-
uniform was none of the nicest, and who gers going to the front. All through the
compared very unfavorably with either great passage of the Vosges, and in the
the Prussians or the French. fertile valleys at the foot of the moun-
My pass from the general staff in Ber- tains, there was an atmosphere of neg-
lin was fortunately worded so as to ig- lect. There were no workmen in the
'
290 EUROPE IN STOBM AND CALM.
fields, save now and then an adventu- been whipped in recent times. An Aus-
rous ploughman vviih a solitary horse. trian General gave him a thrashing in
The great forests and leafy glades were 1866, and he had never risen to the level
mystic with cheekerwork of light and of combative success since that, occasion.
shade ; and we might have imagined that But he seemed to have succeeded well in
we were on a holiday excursion, if at every his difficult mission at Nancy. I heard
station we had uot seen the watchful no word of complaint uttered against
guards, and stacked behind them the him, and the towns-people seemed to
needle-guns, which guaranteed the forci- have a. certain admiration for his qualities.
ble possession of Alsatia and Lorraine. 1 called on him, ami received my in-
The oilicials. red-capped and jauntily structions for the next day's journey, then
dressed, joked and laughed with the entered the restaurant of a hotel and
peasant girls who sold refreshments for suggested the serving of dinner, as I had
the officers ; and whenever a soldier took had nothing to eat for fifteen hours.
anything without paying the properprice, " You must, wait," said the gargon,
an was promptly called to redress
officer "until seven o'clock, until the regular
the wrong and collect the offender. dinner. We have very little and must
On all tile roads along the hills we economize what we have. You cannot
could see lone processions of army teams, get much Whereupon
here." succeeded 1
wagons drawn by powerful horses, slowly in persuading him that I was a neutral,
winding their various ways like huge ser- and must be fed then and there. " Do
"
pents. Before them rode the Uhlans, you pay, or have you a billet delogement .'
gay and singing, their white and black said he. " My friend, I pay, of course."
lance pennons waving gracefully. Here ' All, well," said he, employing a slang
and there across the mellow fields Parisian phrase, ;
that is another pair of
spurred Bavarian or a Saxon officer,
a sleeves, and I will see." I had rarely
carrying orders from one dorf to another. been better served; and at dessert the
Sometimes, in descending from the car- gargon brought, me a noble cluster of
riage, met a peasant, who cursed me
1 grapes, of which 1 am sure the unhappy
fluently while I purchased his bread and officers who boarded at the table d'hdte
wine; ami once an old woman was so saw none.
violent in her language that I beat a It was amusing to End the Prussian
hasty retreat. But in general the popu- soldiers, who received only seven and a
lation was resuming its normal mood. half thalers per month, besieged by peas-
Occasionally one cursed you roundly ants ami old women, miserably clad, and
and sold you his goods at the same time, trembling with the cold, who insisted
or chatted pleasantly and asked eagerly upon having alms. I looked in at the
for news. After seven hours of tedious Cooperative store at Nancy, and found
riding we arrived at Nancy. I wished that there was serious distress among
to push on to Versailles, but was told the poor. The German soldiers nave,
that the trains did not. run nights in war- but not without grumbling. An old
time ; so I went, through the surging woman cursed me from a third-story
masses of soldiery into the town. window during one of my walks in the
General Yon Bonim, the commander town, because I was hard-hearted towards
of Nancy and the neighboring districts, a little girl who insisted upon charity.
was one of the few Prussians who have In the Place Stanislaus, one of the
—
finest squares in France, I saw sev- and hastening to seek their quarters for
eral companies of Bavarians drawn up, the night. most of the oc-
Here, as in
waiting for billets of lodging. A few cupied towns, a was con-

little notice
also were in a neighboring shop endeav- spicuously posted, and the citizens had
oring to follow the rules relative to the good reason to be thankful for it. It
exchange between Prussian and French read thus :
money. Notices, amply explanatory,

Any arbitrary requisition, whether by word
were posted in every place of business.
or by sign, calculated to intimidate any inhabi-
and the thaler and pfennig, words al- — tant, wilt be punished in a severe manner.
most unpronounceable to French lips, Signed,
had entirely replaced the franc and cen- The Etapen Commando.
time. The walls were covered with im-
mense staring notices, enumerating the This effectually prevented much in-
things that must or must not be done. on the part of the soldiers; but
justice
The Moniteur Officiel, for this depart- many comical misunderstandings arose
ment, issued by the Prussians, and printed between conquerors and conquered. In
in French, was p. ..-led on the bulletin the evening, I saw a French peasant,
boards. There was no news in it but ; woman in a frightful passion against
the reader was invited to the contem- a young Bavarian officer, who, she said,
plation of a series of ordinances relative had been twice quartered in their house,
to the cattle plague. From the Place and who now returned to insult them by
Stanislaus, I went down to the fine old insisting on staying a third time. But
Palace of Justice, where Marshal Cau- a little inquiry disclosed the fact that
robert once made his home ; and the the officer had simply returned to ex-
peasant who accompanied me said that press his gratitudefor the handsome
the story of the capture of Nancy by manner in which he had been treated,
fiveUhlans was true. and to leave a small gratuity. At the
"I was in the square myself," he said, H6tel de Paris, where the commander
"when they rode in, and there was no had established head-quarters, most of
serious talk of resistance. One or two the officers appeared to have won the
peasants whispered, knock'
Let us favorable opinion of the landlady, who,
them on the head,' but the more prudent to sum all up, said, "I thoroughly
at once restrained them. We were not believe they have only one fault." —
afraid of them, but of what they repre- "What is that?" — "They are Prus-
sented." sians."
The principal cafes in Nancy were Naturally enough all the theatres and
filled with German officers, quietly sip- amusements were at an end. There
ping their beer, and reading their letters were no restrictions to traffic between
from home. The politeness of these one town to another and the Etapen ;
men towards the inhabitants who entered Commando gave " safe conducts " to all
was curious to observe. None of the peasants who asked for them. The
soldiers were overbearing, and made farmers and crop-growers of the vicinity
way in some of the public places some- had but one aim, —
to keep within the
what as if they considered themselves pale of Prussian law.
intruders. Regiments of Bavarians At Nancy we found the journals
were constantly pouring into the town, which had come down from Rheirns, and
Soissons, and the other towns in that beside them. Veteran colonels, in fur
section. These were little scrubby half- robes, which rose to their shoulders, and
sheets, printed on poor paper, and en- fell to their heels, rushed to and fro,
tirely devoid of news. In the Indepen- snarling their orders A wounded
dance liemois, :it the head of the first French officer crawled along on his
column on the first page, in large type, crutches, and asked to be directed by
was the following: '-The German an- the quickest route to Bordeaux. The
thorities communicate to ns. with an brawny men of the army gang from
order to insert it, the following de- Switzerland, Saxony, and the Rhine
spatch," Then came one of King Wil- shouldered through the mass, singing
Hum's brief but sententious accounts of their dialect songs; and a village citri,
a Prussian victory. Telegraphic de- with a red cross on his arm, told me
spatches were all distinguished as fol- terrible stories of the recent battles
lows: "From German sources." "De- around Metz. The peasants produced
spatches of Foreign Origin." It must their safe conducts, and received yellow
have been trying to the inhabitants of tickets printed in German
in exchange.
Nancy to submit to the arrival among Post officials, with huge red bands round
them of the crowd of Hamburg, Frank- their caps, hugged their courier bags,
fort, and Strasbourg Jews, by no means and fought for the best places in the
of the choicest kind, who had followed train and at last we got off exactly
;
the army, and bung out their signs in three hours behind time,
every street. The tobacco trade had In my compartment I found a Prus-
been mainly accorded to the Hamburg- sian doctor, attached to the fifteenth
ers, who were driving a brisk trade with division of the Eighth army corps, which
the soldiery. Many of the business was then stationed at Rheims. lie had
places had been rented by the Hebrews, seen much of the lighting around Metz,
with the stipulation that the leases should and had been ill with that terrific scourge
last until the withdrawal of the German of the Prussian army before the fortress
troops. of the Moselle, the typhoid fever. He
In Ihe morning, when I went to the had been sent home to die, but a sniff of
train for Epernay, found the station

I the fresh air of Berlin had brought him
crowded with troops all bound up the back to life, he said, and so he was on
line. There were the stout, rotund the road again, lie gave a picturesque
Prussian, shining in blue and gold, description of the burning, by French
jaunty, saucy, and defiant ; the light- shells, of a house in which there were
mustached, thin-lipped, high-shouldered many French wounded, and the impress
boy from the hussars, full of wine, of truth was in all that he said, lie
and patting every peasant girl on the testified readily to the truth of the gen-
shoulder; the ponderous Landwehr- cral supposition that the Prussian losses
man, sedate and sullen, looking sadly at in killed, during the war, had thus far
the children playing about the station ;
exceeded those of the French. But he
the lumpy and clownish Bavarian; the spoke with particular earnestness of the
ethereal Saxon, resplendent in sky-blue ;
superiority of the German soldiers over
and the northern Polish, Breslau, and others in withstanding fatigue. " Ty-
Poseu Lancers, gliding about among phus, bad water, and. sometimes, bad
their comrades, who looked like dwarfs liquor," were the main enemies the
German trooper had to encounter. The daring to give them conveyances. Once,
wounds made by the chassepdts, he in order to procure a vehicle for one or
thought, were very deadly, and, if not two discouraged members of his troop,
attended to shortly after they were in- he was compelled to threaten the Mayor
flicted, the consequences were nearly with the Prussians. " got my car- I
always grave. " Mere pain," he said, riage." he said with a smile, " in ten
"does not wear out the German, as it minutes."
does other soldiers." lie was especially The traveller from Strasbourg to
eulogistic of the French troops which Paris, on his arrival at Epernay, in the
his corps met before Met/., and recounted pleasant country of Champagne, used to
an instance which spoke volumes. A be set upon by a dozen peasants, who
captain with a handful of men was insisted upon selling him forthwith the
cornered and called on to surrender. real nectar of the gods at the cost of
" We all stood and looked on," said the 2."> cents per pint. The credulous
doctor. •'
But the captain cried. For- ' traveller who imbibed this compound
ward to die and they went in
!
'
was for days afterwards troubled with
again, but they never came out." singular sensations in head and stomach,
In this same train was the aide-major and finally discovered that he, as well as
of the French department of the military the basely adulterated drink, bad been
hospital at Versailles. He had eared for "sold." On my arrival this time at
the wounded there until he was selected Epernay, I found the same peasantry
to undertake the difficult mission of driving a brisk trade among the sturdy
escorting the pardled convalescent German soldiers, who, under the influ-
French through the lines to a point ence of the cheering fluid, insisted upon
whence they could reach their homes, kissing every girl who came within their
and to take the prisoners as far as reach. At Epernay is the branch line
Nancy en route for Germany. Exposure leading Rheims and Soissons and
to ;
and fatigue had quite broken him down ;

here were hundreds of ears rolling away
and he was so worn out that he fell twice with supplies for the Eighth army corps.
during an hour's walk which we took in All along the route from Strasbourg up,
one of the long stoppages of the train at we had met a great variety of trains,
a small station. The Etapen Commando, showing the richness of the Prussian
when we stopped later in the journey military resources. Sometimes trundled
over night, "Poor
said, fellow! give by us a hundred empty carriages, all
him a good lodging. He is worse off marked with a red cross. At one station,
than those he cares for." But the I counted sixty baggage-cars filled with
aide-major clung on to overloaded disinfectants alone for the camps around
carriages, to baggage trains, to filthy Paris. At Nancy and Epernay were
cartscrowded with troops, until he was great heaps of hospital bedding and
back at his post. He was seven days sacks of lint, was as yet
for which there
in making his way from Versailles to no room in the overcrowded hospitals
Nanteuil with one hundred and thirty beyond. Thousands of barrels of pe-
convalescents, not long before I had met troleum were safely stored in many
him. They were compelled to walk the [daces; and as for grain were
there
whole distance, the Mayors of the little countless sacks of it, and mountains of
towns through which they passed not forage: and the blue-bloused peasants
294 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM
were working' night aud day to carry it carriage nor horse was to bo had for
to the army. money or persuasion. The EtapenCorn-
The Prussians had lost great numbers mando advised me to sleep over my dis-
of horses campaign, the climate
in (he appointment for that night, and in the
strangely affecting them and new in- ; morning he would appeal on my behalf.
stalments were constantly brought up In company with two fellow-travellers
from northern Germany; while buyers I walked a mile to the town under the
for the army were everywhere in Ham- hill. Nanteuil was crowded, and a peas-
burg, Scotland, Ireland, and England, ant woman informed me was none that I
1 sleptat Epernay, anil rose before the too good to sleep out of doors. I went
dawn, expecting to leave by an early t" see the Mayor, a little Quilpy man
train for Nanteuil, at which point, with a greasy coat, protruding upper lip,
because the French had blown up the and a wondrous pair of spectacles.
great tunnel under the mountain, railway lie was willing, hut incapable. Slept
communication was at an end. From on the floor himself; used to it. No
Nanteuil to Versailles there were si\ floor for us to sleep on? No; he rather
posts, and 1 was told that if I made two thoughtnot. Inquire at the next village,
daily I should be lucky. In order to another mile away, on the bank of the
reach Versailles it was necessary to take Marne.
a long and sweep around Paris.
wide Crouttes looked inviting; hut no one
through a host of the pretty suburban offered a lodging. In the middle of a
villages. Visions of mild and endless long street stood a little group, — a bent
army convoys rose before my eves. I and feeble old man, a hale, brown, and
waited four hours at Epernay, and was scholarly looking fellow at his side, and
finally compelled to clamber on to an some country bumpkins in wooden shoes,
open truck of a construction train, and We asked them if French money would
on this shaky vehicle I reached, late in buy us lodging. " No," said the old
the afternoon, a high plateau, from man, " not here. I have thirty horses in
whence there was a charming view of the my stable and eight postilions in my
placid Marne, winding its way through house, and I can do no more. Have you
the greenest of Melds ami amid vine- billets of lodging ?
" — '-No." — "Well,"
clad hills. In the distance nestled two said the scholar, " in that case, Pere Jean
brown picturesque villages, Nanteuil and will see what he can do for you." lie
Crouttes. insisted on the old farmer's finding us

Bivouacs were numerous all along the a place ; and it was not until after he had
hillsides, and tires gleamed among the departed that wc discovered we had made
forests. The little railway station was the acquaintance of one of the most fa-
almost literally covered with i utains moiis of Parisian painters.
of mail matter, delayed in transit toVer- The old man was sixty-two years of
sailles. I walked around one of the age, and had worked in the fields at ig
heaps, twenty feet long aud six feet high ;

the vines ever since he was ten. It is
another rose to a height of twelve feet, a rude life, because you must be up in
The " field-post" wagons were loading, the morning before four o'clock, and
hub-deep in the mud; and the sturdy twistand pet your vines before the sun
Pomeranians were singing as they swung comes to look at them. Then, because
the sacks on to the trucks.Here neither your wife has worked by your side all
da)', — that the fashion vineyard

is in of the huge old kitchen, into which the
land, — yon must help her in the kitchen, farmer ushered us stood an enormous
and it is ten o'clock at night before bed- curtained lied. One or two chairs,
time comes. "It rattles your old bones," some benches, and
were all a table
said Pere Jean. But for the last month the Above, the
remaining furniture.
Pete Jean had done but little work in the bed-chambers were of Pompeian simplic-
fields. He had been busy with the re- ity. The floors were of stone, and the
ception and care of soldiers of the Prus- beds were hard and small. The house
sian government, and both he and his old stood at the bottom of a huge court-yard
wife were nearly worn out. Every even- which opened on the street by means of
ing a corporal arrived with six men tor a large door, to which was appended a
Einquarterung, and the household hail heavy knocker. We were given a great
been nightly upset. chamber, only used in times of peace
Pere Jean passed for a rich man for bridals, funerals, and rustic balls,
among his simple neighbors, By fifty and there we deposited our mattresses on
years of industry he had amassed 25,000 the floor, the only couch in it being cov-
francs,and owned a, huge old stone farm- ered with the remnants of the good wife's
house and a huge court with capacious linen-chest, and our host evidently dis-
stables.""When the first Prussians liking to displace them. The old woman,
came they made a requisition on me whose limbs were stiff with long labor in
which quite discouraged me ; but since the fields, informed us that she had not
then. VOyez-VOUS," he said, " I have strength to serve; and we were obliged
become used to it. They took from me to wait upon our own table. Towards
thirty casks of wine, my best cattle, and eight o'clock arrived the usual comple-
pretty nearly all my linen, which was ment of German soldiery, who brought
my wife's especial [aide." He said that their own provisions with them and
it was hard for him to believe that war cooked them, then sat quietly before
consisted in taking his cattle and his the fireside late into the night, singing
wine, as well as, his first-born and his quaint hymns and soldier songs, in which
dealest son. we could find no taint of vulgarity. By
While our dinner was cooking over a midnight all was still ; and the trumpets
huge open fireplace we went into the of the postilions, blended with the chant
stables, and saw the beautiful, strong- of a cavalry troop going past, aroused us
animals, which served the royal despatch- in the morning.
bearers and here the Prussian postilions
; Old Pere .lean was very explicit in
were moaning over a number of superb his reproaches against the Emperor.
beasts which were dying from tin' effects ' Xow, then," said he. taking a spoonful
of hard work ami the climate. After of coffee in his trembling hand as we were
many difficulties we arranged to leave leaving in the morning, " if I could buy
the next morning with the post-wagon the Emperor back with
that, I would not
bound for Corlieil whence to Versailles; do have long enough voted and
it. I
we could push on alone. labored for him, but now, after what he
All through this champagne country has done, I cannot think of any fate bad
the peasantry are of the simplest habits. enough for him." lie thought that the
Their ideas of comfort and elegance are people of might revolt one
his section
primitive in the extreme. Iu one corner day unless the rigor of the requisitions
29G EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM.
was softened. "We have patience," "The French Republic, 1870. Liberty,
he added, "because France has in a Equality, Fraternity." Here, for the
measure brought this war on herself; first time also, we saw sentinels at the
but we must not be pushed." entrance of a town. They were sheltered
A little after dawn we went away at in little straw-covered boxes; and were
the bead of a long train of wagons continually on the alert to salute the
loaded with the royal mail. Each of and question the peasants who
officers
these wagons had a comfortable coupi passed in and out. Towards dusk we
in front with room for authorized pas- came to the gate of a chateau, thirty-two
sengers. But the transportation of kilometers from Paris; and in front of
civilians was forbidden. Our military the gates the postilions began playing
passes seemed to entitle us to the privi- cheery tunes upon their horns,
lege of journeying witb this postal train ; The chateau stood in the midst of a
and preseiitiv we got away through a fertile plain, witb gently sloping hills in
country much frequented by Francs- the distance. Itwas one of those an-
Tireurs, without any guard of soldiers; eient manors upon which, in all old
and we observed that the postilions car- countries, generally hangs a. dirty and
ried no visible There were
weapons. sordid dependency of a hamlet, notable
sixteen wagons, each drawn by three chielly for its hovels and unclean streets.
horses. The drivers weii' all from North As we entered on the turf-carpeted green
Germany. They wore a handsome uni- of castle a body of Wurtemburg
the
form of dark blue, bordered witb red. soldiersmarched out to meet us, and the
Each carried a horn suspended at his side, chorus of horns from the old servants'
Of these men then- are several thousand hall of the domain made the night-
ill the Prussian service. The Bavarian air melodious. There was a whiff of
and Saxon armies also have their field- rain in the atmosphere; a light wind
post. The orders were never to halt tugged at the masses of dead leaves in
save when the horses must rest and be the forest, seeming to urge them to
fed. Two conductors, who rode some fantastic dances. A Pomeranian, deco-
distance ahead, marked out the routes ated with all the colors in the Prussian
for the journeys, taking always the military chrome, came out
meet us. to
shortest and least crowded way. 1 )e- " You are just in time," he said "there ;
spite their adroitness we wen' often bin- was an alerte, as the French call it, ou
dered by long teams of munition-wagons, your route about an hour ago; but no
which weie slowly making their way along one was hurt." He invited us to stay
the muddy hills. For half a mile along and sup with the postilions; but we
the road from Xanteiiil we saw nothing sought lodgings outside the chateau
lint immense heaps of cannon-balls. In gates at the hostelry. It could only
many places rude booths for the sale afford us one room and no bedding, so
of provisions to passing soldiers had we slept on chairs as best we could,
been established. We
went on through much disturbed by the boisterous songs
Lal'crte-sous-.Iouarre to Coulommieres, sung Pomeranian troopers, who
by
where there were many hundreds of sol- were drinking in the room below. The
diers quartered, and where, for the first burden of the principal song was " Jesu,
time since the declaration of the Republic, Maria;" whence concluded that our
I
I saw these words inscribed on an edifice : military friends were religiously disposed.
Our host came (o talk witb us late at about one thousand wagons at different
night, saving', when asked it he could periods, all laden with sick and wounded,
furnish provisions, wine, etc., that he coming down from " Vor Paris." These
had nothing left. But when
found that lie were most pitiful to look upon. Many
we were neither Prussians nor French, of the men were half dead with fever,
and were certain to pay him, he filled others so grievously wounded that at
our baskets from a well-stocked larder. every jolt of the rough carts cries of
We were oft' again at sunrise, clatter- pain were wrung from them. Three or
ing through a blinding rain, and en route four of these wretches were always
for Tournois, a quaint ami pleasant huddled together under a, little canvas
town. At each itape, or post, our passes covering, and lay groaning, a mass of
were n'sril. and we were often questioned sickness and desolation. Beside these
concerning our business at head-quarters. processions always rode a guard of the
About noon we passed through a great watchful Uhlans. Towards evening we
finest, and saw numbers of horses with reached C'orbeil, where the French,
their throats cut lying by the road-side, in a frenzied horror on learning of the
where they had fallen from fatigue. approach of the Prussians, had blown
One or two were not dead, as we passed up one of the finest bridges on the Seine.
them, and it was piteous them to hear The Prussians insisted that the French
neigh faintly as they heard the sound of should have this repaired by a certain
hoofs. Their butchers, some Bavarians, date, or pay a heavy fine. The date
were just ahead, and from them we was passed when we arrived, but the
learned that a heavy fight had taken work was not completed. Two tempo-
place three days before, at Dreux. rary bridges allowed the army free pas-
Here, also, we saw some Uhlans for- sage and here at C'orbeil the Prussians
;
aging. Two of them rode up to a village had established a strong depot for mili-
at a little distance from the load, and tary stores. As we descended the .steep
presently overtook us with some fat hens hill leading town the thunder
into the
tied to their saddle-bows. An old woman of the Prussian cannon was plainly
ran out after them, looking wistfully at heard. All C'orbeil was in excitement.
her poultry, — perhaps not the first she The cannon had not been heard before
had been called upon to furnish. The for many days, and the inhabitants con-
rain came rolling down in great spouts cluded that a general action was taking
across the which we now-
plain on place. Montrouge was barking furi-
entered and some of the weaker Prus-
; ously in return and now and then the
;
sians ami Bavarians — part of a march- - sonorous voice of Mont Valerien was
ing column which we were passing — heard clamoring for war. To this
sank down by the road-side. Our drivers music we sat down to supper. Find-
heeded none of their appeals to lie taken ing that if one went into the streets
up, and told us that it was against orders after seven o'clock he was liable to
to carry a soldier. Many of the younger arrest, we rolled into the first comforta-
men were so stiff that they could nol ble beds we had seen for three days.
move their and some French
limbs, Here were also mountains of mail matter,
peasants, overcome by pity, put them and here the roads were worn out with
into their carts, and thus they jolted the constant passage of heavy army
wearily along. We passed, this day, trains. The mud was so deep that, a
298 EUROPE TN STORM AND CALM.
wagon once fixed in it, the united efforts hints were witnesses without expression
of a whole company could scarcely stir of approval or discontent. In every
it. was evident that for the good lady
It town there was a battery and a sanitary
of the inn where we staved the war had station. All the important places of
its revenges, for her customers were all business were closed, and at Villeneuve
officers of superior grade, and paid St. Georges, a beautiful suburban resort
roundly for what they had. The rail- for Parisians, there were only a few
way station had been closed for two people left. The houses which had been
months. The clock was stopped at ten closed by their owners remained ini-
minutes past eight, the hour when the touched, — no troops were quartered in
last train left the town. Towards noon or near them.

of the next day my companions de- We drew up before the chief bureau
parted for Lagny, and I climbed alone of the Prussian military post-office, hav-
wagon of the Third army
into the post ing made our nine leagues from Corbeil
wagon being a dilapi-
corps, said post to Versailles in three hours and a, half,
dated omnibus which formerly ran to There was a sullen, ominous roaring in
l.on jiuneaii. We took two soldiers as a the direction of Paris, which, at first,
guard, and clattered away over the seemed to lie steadily approaching ; but
hills, shortly to meet a convoy of un- I soon became accustomed to the voices
happy French prisoners marching from of the forts.
Dreux down to the railway of Lagny, In the hotel, where I succeeded after
I hence to be sent into Germany. This many entreaties in getting a lodging, all
was one of the saddest spectacles I had the soldiers who had been quartered
seen. The whole ghastly mass of men, there for the last, two n ths had pet
faltering past, hurried forward rather names, and took part in the household
brutally by cavalry, the wounded drudgery, as if they were sons of the
crowded in carts, and hanging down family. On the evening of my arrival
their feverish heads, the women stand- a wretched sneak of a Bavarian, newly
ing in the doorways, and calling on Cod arrived, had stolen a little spaniel, which
to crush the Prussians, the hungry looks was one of the household treasures, and
of the officers as they saw through the a whole corporal's guard was turned out
open windows their enemies feasting in to bring him to justice. The dog was
cabarets, all—this left a pang in my found, and the officer, in investigating the
mind, and cut to the heart. ease, made as much ado as if it had
The nearer one approached Versailles, been theft of an object of art from the
the more evident it was that the Germans palace. The landlady, who was highly
had come for a lone' stay. •' Not even confidential, informed me that two of
if Paris makes peace to-morrow," said a the best of her invading friends, August
Wurtemburg officer to me, '-will the ami Heinrich, were to go to Orleans to-
troops be withdrawn until the caution morrow. "It is a burning shame,"
money" — as he called it
— '-is paid." said the old lady, "to scud such hand-
Soine of the villages along the road pre- some boys as that to be slaughtered;"
senteil quite a holiday appearance: a and she looked quite disconsolate.
regimental band was giving a morning ••When the Prussians are gone," she
concert in one; in another, there was a remarked shortly afterwards, "it will
review of cavalry, at which the inhabi- fie very lonesome at Versailles: there
will he nothing but you casual stran- scene, withering them all with a glance.
gers." " Silence, you noisy dragons! You big
The invaders bowed not only to the one with a white cap, take off your
charms but to the authority of the sword, and sit down!Silence, all of
French serving-maids. In the front you !

" Cowed and overwhelmed, al-
parlor of the inn, on this evening in though not understanding a word, the
question, I remarked four stalwart hungry fellows sat down, nor dared to
fellows who had just arrived with their stir until Agnes found time to serve
billets all in proper order. In hearty them, an hour or two later. If one pre-
German style they began to clamor, sumed to proffer gallantly he had good
"Madame! Here! Attention! Bed! reason to remember the avenging arm of
A light ! Supper " Upon this, the
!
Agnes.
beautiful housemaid came upon the
CHAPTER THIRTY-ONE.
Tlic Period of [lope. — Splendid Improvisation of Defense. — What Paris did under Pressure. — The
Forts and their Armament. —
The Departure of Gambetta in Balloon. :i —
Outcropping of the Com-
mune. —Fights outside the Walls of the Capital.- - The Defense "t 'hateaudun.— A Bright Page in
(
From h Military Annals. —

A Panic ;it Versailles. —Von
Moltke saves his Papers. German Prepa- —
rations for 1 tefense.
"KTQ cloubl the Government of Na- honorable because it offered such a
-L-N tional Defense received a severe striking contrast to their negligence,

moral shock from the tone of the inter- carelessness, and want of thought under
view which its representative had had at the Empire.
Ferrieres with the exacting ami uncom- The government found that it was no
promising enemy; still, the period of small task t<> man the walls of Paris.
the sieo'e of Paris comprised between The chain of forts from Charenton,
the occupation of Versailles and the first stretching entirely round (he city, cov-
days of November may be characterized ered a distance of no less than thiity-
as the period of hope. The position of nine kilometres, without counting the
the Germans for forty days after their detached works, some of which, like Mont
arrival was by no means secure. They Valerien, were enormous and formidable
had hut a comparatively small army at fortresses. These forts, — Charenton,
their disposition, with which to under- Viucennes, Nogent, Rosuy, Noisy. L?o-
take the most formidable investment of mainville, Aubervilliers, Est, Double

the century. So long as Strasbourg and Couronne du Nord, La Breche, Mont
Met/, delayed before their fortifications Valerien, Issy, Vanves, Montrouge,
the other German troops which were so Bicetre, and Ivry, —
sixteen in number,
necessary to the investment of Paris, were from three to tour thousand metres
Von Moltke could scarcely have felt apart, with the exception of La Breche
certain of accomplishing his task. The and Mont which were scp-
Valerien,
fortunes of war might have placed him united by a gap of more than twelve
in a humiliating and inextricable posi- thousand metres, and Mont Valerien
tion,and the King of Prussia might have ami Issy seventy-five hundred metres
found himself prisoner in France, while apart. None of these forts were more
the Emperor of France was a prisoner in than live thousand, and some of them
Germany. Of course the Germans had were only fifteen hundred, metres from
a, perfect plan for laying the siege, as Paris proper. To guard the ninety-four
they had plans for everything else, pre- bastions of this tremendous circle of
pared and practised for half a genera- stone and iron more than one hundred
tion. thousand men were necessary. Of reg-
While ihev were doing as best they ular troops, theCommittee of National
could with the forces at their command Defense found that it could count upon
outside, tin' besieged Parisians were scarcely sixty thousand of all branches,
working with an energy all the more most, .if them brought back by General
Vinoy from the neighborhood of Sedan. find a. garrison, well controlled, well
But there were the three hundred and equipped, and full of fight.
fifty or three hundred and sixty thousand The astonishing energy of our northern
National Guards, and to them it was towns in our civil war was more than
thought, despite the fears that they paralleled; it was fairly outdone by the
might undertake an insurrection of gigantic and swift efforts of the Repub-
communistic character, necessary to lican government in Paris to build up the
confide the defense of the fortifica- material for defense.
tions. The committee organized a corps of
But this was not all. The men were from sixty to seventy thousand men,
found; the guards of the ramparts were soldiers or artisans of the better class,
found but each bastion ought for safety
; whose special duty was to make the
CAMP OF THE FRENC1I MARINES AT ST. V1TRV.
to be armed with seven pieces of cannon. cannon, the powder, and the other
Paris ought, in short, to have two great instruments of defense, and to put them
[tarks of artillery, each with two hundred into position. Without and within the
and fifty cannon, in its reserve but the ; city the activity for more than a month
Empire had left it next to nothing. was incessant night and day. More
There were in the magazines neither than two million sacks filled with earth
shells nor the elements necessary to were placed upon the most exposed por-
manufacture them. There were only tions of the ramparts; in the bastions.
about two million pounds of powder, or great hogsheads, packed with sand, so
scarcely ten rounds apiece, to the cannon arranged that they might serve as a
which Paris would have to possess if it second line of defense, were placed.
made a respectable defense. In some Seventy powder magazines were impro-
was only a guardian to
of the forts there vised. Six of the principal forts were
watch over the material, where the occupied by marines, taken from the
Republican authorities had expected to ships which had proved so useless in the
;
firsl part of tlie campaign. Electric tions, seven of which were commanded by
lights, destined to prevent operations in admirals, under whose orders were the
the fields round Paris by the enemy National Guard of Paris, divided into a
during the night, were established on all first line on the ramparts, and a reserve.
the forts. The Seine was barred. The Behind these were the National Guard
dozens of villages round about the Mobile, as a second reserve, ami the
capital were entrenched ; the houses were troops of the line as a third. The artil-
loopholed ; the streets wore filled with lery on the left bank of the Seine was
barricades; and eighty thousand men commanded by a division-general named
were put upon this work of fortifying Bentzman, and General Pelissier com-
the villages in a single day. A fort- manded that of the right bank. After a
night after the committee had begun its time, a service of gun-boats on the Seine
work two thousand one hundred and was organized, and did considerable dam-
forty cannon were placed in position, age to the enemy. The fatal weakness
and the stoic of powder had been of the defense was not to be remedied,
increased to more than six million for tin' Germans had done their best as
pounds. The public service of water soon as they could get to the point where
had been cared for, so that the enemy itwas manifest to prevent the Republic
could not reduce the fortress by thirst from repairing the neglect of the Empire.
and the commission of civil engineers The fact that the heights of Montretout
had ordered from the manufactories, and Chatillon were not properly forti-
hastily installed, more than one hundred fied enabled the Germans to bombard
mitrailleuses of different models, one without difficulty all the forts on the
hundred and fifteen Gatling and Chris- southern side of the fortifications of
tophe guns, three hundred and twelve Paris, and finally tin' whole southern
thousand cartridges for these cannon, section of the capital. If Chatillon had
fifty mortal's with their accessories, been provided with a decent defense it
five hundred thousand shells of various is probable that the bombardment of

calibre, five thousand bombs, three Paris would never have occurred.
hundred cannon of a special new model, It took the Parisians some time to real-
intended to carry as far as the German ize that they were actually hemmed in ;
guns, which were said to be coming up but they were brought to complete reali-
for the threatened I lonibai'i Imeiit ; and, zation of their position about the 9th or
finally, there commission of bar-
was a 10th of October, when the supplies of
ricades, over which M. Rochefort had fresh meat began to fail, and all classes
been called to preside, and which was were reduced to horse-flesh and to a va-
supposed to be planning a net-work of riety of ingenious pretests for meat,
barriers to constitute a third and final which reflected much credit on the skill
line ot defense in case the enemv suc- of the cooks of Paris, but which did little
cessfully undertook an assault and was for the nourishment of the human frame.
willing to indulge in the dangerous game "October the nth," writes a Parisian,
of street-fighting. in his journal, of the siege, "a chicken
So. in this period of hope, the whole was sold at 25 francs ; vegetables taken
city was transformed into a vast camp from the fields just within our picketlines
and factory. The whole enceinte of the and brought in and sold in the stl'eets h\
fortifications was divided into nine sec- marauders who had stolen them were
:
EUTtOT'E IN STORM AND CALM. 303
sold as quickly and for as high prices as People heard of " delegates of commit-
if they were rare fruits." This Communistic move-
tees of safety."
The lirst cloud that came over the ment had its head-quarters at Belleville
period of hope in the siege was on the and Menilmontant, two sections of the
day when the regular ration one hun- — city where the working class is in great
dred grammes per person —
of fresh meal majority. The National ( riiard, recruited
gave out, and it was publicly announced from these quarters, was watched with
that no more could lie had. The Com- grave anxiety by the Government of
munists tried to take advantage of the National Defense, for it was felt that
situation. Cynical writers in radical from them would come the lirst attempt
papers spoke of a possible revolt of the at civil war.
people, and used the sinister phrase Every day this faction grew bolder;
"Hunger means."
justifies the finally it sent a delegation, headed by
Felix Pyat, the old and dangerous Flourens, whose history has been re-
||M.«'l i
p|
m i
-
IM'XXIXfJ AWAY FROM THE SIEGE.
offender against the laws of property and counted in a previous chapter, at the
society, began to prate about the unity head of some battalions, to demand of
of goods as well as the unity of danger. the government a certain number of
The central Republican committee of the arms, which were lying in the magazines
twenty wards of Paris, recently consti- of the State to insist that they should
tuted, began to publish its manifestoes. call for a levie en masse, and that an
It was highly patriotic nit from the out-
; I immediate sortie against the Prussians
set it was observed that all its efforts should be decided, on. This was the out-
tended directly towards the establish- cropping of revolution with a vengeance,
ment of the Commune. In one of its cir- and General Trochu and his colleagues
culars it even demanded the immediate were unquestionably alarmed. ButGen-
transferof thecontrol of municipal affairs eral Trochu behaved with much clever-
from the general government to that of ness, reproached Flourens for having
the "Commune of Paris." The jargon provoked the movement at such a time,
of the old Revolution began to appear. and begged him to go back to his duty.
The ministers were called "citizens." Flourens immediately resigned his com-
—
304 FCROPE IX STORM AND CALM.
mission as an officer of the National circle must in 1 made before it was

Guard, and a number of bis fellow offi- strengthened. Put the various sorties
cers followed his example. at Bondy, at Malmaisou, where General
Nothing came of this manifestation, Ducrot expected that he would find the
except that Floureus declared in the Germans, but did them in
not discover :
circles where he was popular that, in front of the Fort ofMontrouge, and at
order to save Paris, " they would have to that same Chatillon which was already
finish with these people at the H&tel de associated with so many disasters,
Ville,"-— meaning the members of the were productive of small good to the
Government of National Defense. French cause.
Meantime Gambetta, after issuing a On the llth of October General
fierv proclamation auuounciug that the Trochu thought that, from the great
--• which the Communists
. movements which were going on among
had asked for, was already an accom- the German troops in die rear of the
plished fact in the provinces, stepped south-eastern forts of Chatillon and
into the car of a balloon, and at the Bagneux along the route from Versailles
risk of his life, or at least of his liberty, to Choisy, the Germans must have evac-
set oflvoyage through the air, in
on a uated the plateau of Chatillon ; so he
the hope of reaching Tours, whore a made an effort to retake it. lie pushed
delegation was doing its best to create a on General Blanchard with about twelve
solid army. This aerial trip of Gam- thousand men, divided into three columns,
betta's struck the popular fancy with to a pointabove Clamart, Chatillon, and
•
force, and his successful arrival Bagneux. These troops, supported by
within the French lines outside and the the forte of .Montrouge, Yanves, ami
occasional report- of his energetic Labors lssy. went up through the village of
did much to keep up the spirits of the Clamart on to the road uniting Clamart
Parisians". and Chatillon, took the village of Bagn-
Gambetta was a determined enemy of eux, where the brave commandant
the Communistic faction, and the Com- Dampierre was mortally wounded. But
munists rejoiced when he had left Paris. when these troops came to undertake
["hey made two or three attempts to the assault on Chatillon they found that
capture the Hotel de Ville at different they had been entirely mistaken. They
times. These abortive insurrections all beat a hasty retreat before the massi -
were speedily reported to tile Prussians of the enemy, which had not the slightest
at Versailles, and exaggerated accounts intention of giving up its vantage-ground
of them spread about in the German in the neighborhood of the capital.
lines, and served to explain that which The death of the commandant Dam-
; i Germaus had at first observed with pierre made a great sensation in
astonishment, — that none of the great Paris. His body was placed in the Pan-
masses ^( forces within the waits of the on, with the sword of combat laid
eapital moved out to assail the auda- upon his breast, and there was a military
cious enemy. demonstration at his funeral.
At last military operations were begun Two days after this tight the Pari-
by the Parisians, who now had heard of sians saw great jets of tlame leaping up
the tall of Strasbourg, and who felt that skyward in the direction ''i St. t loud.
determined efforts to break the German 1 - denoted the burning of the Palace,
UlUiol'K IN STORM AM) CALM 305
set on lire by from Mont Valerien,

shells safetywhen there was any duly to per-
because the French believed that the form, had ridden alone- the whole avenue
Prussians had there established an ob- where the fail' of St. (loud is usually
servatory for their general staff. " In held, and had thus, while quite within
less than six hours," says M. Jules (la- range, exposed himself to the inimical
" History of the Revolution
retie, in his bullets of two or three hundred soldiers.
of 1870-71," "this palace, which had The palace of St. (loud has never
received so many distinguished guests been rebuilt. It stands a picturesque
:ind seen so many strange fortunes, was ft i in in the midst of the exquisite forest,
entirely consumed." M. Claretie is in and the Republican government, which
error in lliis statement. The chateau of has a sense of the fitness of tilings, has
St. Cloud was but partially burned at repeatedly declined offers from capital-
that time, and hundreds upon hundreds ists for its conversion into casinos, crys-
of shells were fired into it weekly until tal palaces, or gambling-hells. It was
the capitulation in January. to this palace that the first Bonaparte
Around this Palace, and all through came after Brumaire ; that the victorious
the Park of St. (loud, as far as Ville Blucher entered after Alma ; from this
d'Avray, the from the French forts

fire palace that the Empress of tin' French
was particularly effective, and many a returned in haste to perturbed Paris after
stout German was struck down daily by she had heard the news from Sedan and ;
the deatii missiles coming from the un- the ( termans say that the Prince Von Ho-
seen enemy. On the day before the henzollern, who had been the innocent
surrender of the forts 1 rode to Ville cause of the whole war, rode up to the
d'Avray, and thence walked through the doors of St. (loud and straight through
Park of St. Cloud, here and there grop- the deserted palace on the day after the
ing my way in the trenches roofed with caging of Napoleon III. at Sedan.
tree-boughs, in which the soldiers had If was from St. Cloud that Napoleon
then been living for more than two III. announced his intention of declaring
months, and came out near the ruins of war against < iermany.
the Palace just as the Crown Prince of On the lllh of October the Prussians
Prussia, attended by a Staff of forty or asked lor an armistice to bury their dead ;
fifty officers, rode up the hill from the and there was much rejoicing in Paris
banks of the Seine, and turned to look over the fact that the enemy's losses
at the French sharp-shooters, who were were severe. Every night, and generally
very numerous along the other bank, and by day, for the next few days, the
who were making great efforts to inflict cannon on the walls of Paris roared
damage. The position was not, one to unceasingly, wasting hundreds of thou-
be chosen for comfort. The shells came sands of francs' worth of ammunition, as
crashing into the ruins and along the those of us who were outside with the
trenches every minute. 1 counted four- besiegers could observe. The principles
teen which fell in close proximity to the which guided the action of the French
group of horsemen halted
staff while the artillery-men were a mystery to the be-
upon the brow of the hill. The ping of siegers.
the bullets from the French lines was During the occupation of Versailles I
incessant; but the Crown Prince, with used frequently to ride through that
his usual disregard of his own personal town to St. Germain, and at a certain
point on the road came out on a bare hundred paces the Germans arose, and
hill-side directly facing St. Cloud. This poured a. tremendous tire into their
was not within range, and the
hill-side ranks; and from that time forward the
gunnersof MontValerien imisl have found sortie was checked. At nightfall Gen-
it out at least a month before my fre- eral Ducrot ordered a retreat, and the
quent journeys back and forth. But Prussians pursued the retreating French
they never failed to salute my appear- with a very disastrous lire.
ance, or that of any horseman on that The French accounts of the panic at
point upon the route, with half-a-dozen Versailles have been but little exagger-
cannon shots, which cost much money, ated. The Germans began to get ready
and weie not of the slightest avail. the reserve batteries, which had been
On the 21st of October a .second sortie ranged for more than a month in long
of importance took place, about twelve lines on the Place d'Armes, at Versailles,
thousand men, under the orders of Gen- and to station them so that they would
eral Ducrot, being engaged in it. It sweep the avenues of St. Cloud, of Paris,
was a reconnaissance, but prepared for and of Sceaux, in case the French troops
offensive operations. The troops went arrived. The gates of the city were
out by Rueil, Buzenval, Bougival, and closed. Von Moltke, it is reported, de-
Malmaison. This was a vigorous sortie, stroyed a large number of his papers
and was so well kept up at fust that and important despatches, had others
there wis a slight panic at Versailles. hastily done up in sheets and towels,
The Germans, for half an hour, were and ready to be carried off, jumped
occupied with vigorous preparations for on to a horse, and went out to look at
departure. The French artillery had the light. It was, probably, his pres-
opened a heavy lire on Buzenval and ence and the few cool bits of advice
Malmaison, and the troops had carried which he gave on arriving on the scene
the first German positions. But when of action which saved the day. In their
they had turned Malmaison, and gone up retreat the French lost two cannon,
the slopes of Jonchere, they found the which the Fiftieth Prussian infantry took
enemy ambuscaded in the woods or in from them.
the houses of the village too strong for In the provinces, the army of the
them. They asserted, with truth, that Loire, which was destined to such a sad
a short time after the announcement of fate, was by the end of October in fairly
the battle, all along the line, even up to good condition. There had been a battle
Montretout, they had a distinct advan- and a French defeat at Orleans, where
tage Tin' Germans lost heavily, the an army corps composed of Bavarians
Forty-sixth Prussian regiment being quite and Prussians under the command of
cut to pieces. The Parisians were very General Yon der Tann, and a detach-
indignant at the manoeuvres of the Ger- ment of cavalry commanded by Prince
mans, who, while standing under a heavy Albrecht of Prussia, were operating.
fire, threw themselves down in great dis- The little town of Chateaudun had made
order, as if they were nearly all killed, a defense so heroic against over-
or about to crawl away. This ruse de- whelming numbers that the renown of
ceived the French, who dashed forward, its exploits penetrated into every circle
thinking that they could rush over the in Europe and even won the admiration
enemy ; but when they were at three of the enemy. The anniversary of this
:
El HOPE IN STORM AND CALM. 307
defense has become a commemorative fete his division. The officers bivouacked
in France, and the " Francs-Tireurs," or with the troops in the During
open air.
irregular volunteers, who held this town the engagement of the previous night
until it was almost burned to ashes, the French had neglected their wounded,
against a Prussian division of twelve a great number of whom remained in the
thousand men, with twenty-four pieces streets, and were burned alive. On the
of artillery, deserve to rank beside the morning of the 20th, at five o'clock, the
heroes of the Alamo. Prussian division took up its inarch
Chateaudun was and pillaged first again. The flames which still came
burned afterwards by the angry enemy, from the ruins were so strong that they
which had not seen any such resistance lit up the horizon as clearly as if it
since it had entered the country. The were day."

German accounts of the bombardment Chateaudun thus became celebrated in
and sacking of the town furnish sufficient French annals. The government issued
accusation against the victors, who, in in its favor the customary decree
this case, abused their power. A " Chateaudun has merited well of the
statement in the official journal of country." Paris named one of its
Berlin shortly after the affair thus streets after theunhappy town. Victor
describes the condition of the town of Hugo, when some huge cannon were
Chateaudun :
" Demolished walls, over- going on to the fortifications, demanded
turned gateways, and pierced roofs make that one of them should be called
the streets nearly impassable. The Chateaudun.
church itself has been almost destroyed St. Quentin, in the north, had also
by shells; immense blocks of stone are made an heroic resistance. The period
torn from its wall ; the tiles are scattered of hopefulness was not yet over, but it
like leaves in a forest ; and a grenade was greatly clouded by the unfortunate
has blown the belfry half away. Entire termination of the brilliant affair at Le
streets were in flames when the troops Bourget, by the announcement of the
entered. The extent of the conflagration fall of Metz, by the government's de-
and the violence of the storm of wind termination to propose an armistice, and
which carried the flames hither and yon by the Communistic insurrection of the
rendered any idea of extinguishing the 31st of October, when Paris seemed
fire impracticable. There was scarcely to escape civil war by nothing less
a decent room to be had in the town for than the interposition of Providence.
Prince Albrecht and the commanders of
CHAPTER. THIRTY-TWO.
The Sic^c of Met/.. — Its Tragedies and its Humors. — Steinmetz Ihc Terrible. Bazamc's Curious Indeci-
sion.- -Tin Guerilla Warfare around tlic Fortress.- -The Poisoned Wells Legend. — Starving th<
Citizens. — The Odor of Death. — General t lhangarnier's Mission.
the north-western part of that ganizing foreign expeditions oue-half of

XNpicturesque and rich department of the time he had given to the protection
France known as the Moselle stands an of himself from his own enraged country-
almost impregnable fortress, winch for men. The Romans, with their rare eyes.
seventy days occupied the attention of found .Mel/, a stronghold of strongholds,
the whole civilized world. The battles and named it Divodorum. Here the Me-
which were fought near its walls were diomatrici, a powerful anil warlike tribe,
such as were never seen upon the windy then lived, and from the corruption of
plains of Troy, — battles which cling in various dialects in pronouncing their
the memory like a hideous nightmare, name finally arose the sobriquet of
redeemed here and there by some act of Met/.. In 452 the Huns destroyed the
purifying heroism, some sublime example town ; hut as this was before it had risen
of duty and faith and patience. One to a walled fortress, the Metzers boast
hundred and seventy-three thousand that it never litis been " taken." It is
men at last surrendered there to barely i

'•
tin' north-eastern Franco-Prussian
two hundred thousand, and the shame- frontier, and the country around is strik-
ful campaign seemed at its climax. ingly beautiful. The Prussian soldiers,
Bazaine had stained Ins name with igno- who could not lie hindered from pausing
miny and Canrobert, whether or not he
; to admire nature's beauties, even when
were culpable, was at last doomed to do they were making their first memorable
penance for being so lone; in bad com- march in 1866, must have
into Austria,
pany. These two were most efficient lingered by the way when ap-
often
witnesses to the truth of the assertion proaching the environs of Metz. The
that the Empire was not able to raise up city, set down in front of ti noble back-
men to protect France. The stronghold ground formed by lulls tinged with brill-
of the country, the much-coveted gate, iant colors and crowned with thick
was unlocked and who now could check
; forests, the great spires of the Cathedral
the descendants of the Brandenburg looming high in air. and to the front
pirates? Not even the army of the Loire, the fertile plains, with the silver threads
not even Garibaldi, nor yet the liery, un- of the Moselle and Seille winding
tamed Gambetta, seemed able to stay through them, make a perfect picture.
the avenging hand which had been The heavy masonry, the castellated
stretched over France. towers of the Port.' des Allemands, and
The Germans were wont to say that the huge elbow of the ramparts, which
Metz was the sortie gate for France, as projected into the Mosenthal, — the Mo-
indeed it might have been to Prussia's selle valley, — reminded every approach-
humiliation, had Napoleon spent in oring visitor that Met/, was eminently a
fortress West and north-west

town. still to be found on the chapel and in the
led away two roads on which the
i.he Place Napoleon, as it was called at
terrible battles of the 14th, 16th, and 18th the time of the war. There are three
of August, 1870, were fought and near ; islands in the river, — St. Symphorien,
by are the heights which were stormed Sauley, and Chambiere. On the east,
at such dreadful cost. The villages in at some distance from the city, stands
the vicinity are, with rare exceptions, the great fort of Belle Croix, renamed
miserably poor. The farmers give more by the Germans and to the west the
;
attention to their fields than to their bridges were guarded by Fort Moselle.
homes, and there is small evidence of Here also was an entrenched camp, ca-
culture of the grace of hospitality. pable of containing many thousands of
Metz was the capital of Lorraine even men. The outermost fort was perhaps
as early as the time of Clovis, the first a mile from the city proper, and the cir-
of the French kings. It was later a free cumference of the whole work was about
city, called Imperial. In the 11th cen- six miles. Metz was most; important as
tury it was German, and remained so an arsenal town, having for many years
until 1048, when it became French by contained the principal stores of weapons
the Treaty of Westphalia. The fortress in France. Its hospitals were also the
was begun in the ICtli century, by the finest outside Paris, and its manufacto-
Chevalier de Yille, and constant improve- ries of cloths, woollen wares, needles, etc.,
ments have been made since that time. are still celebrated in both hemispheres.
The Germans are pounding away at it The trade' between Metz and all parts
even now, and they have metamorphosed of Germany was always extremely brisk,
the names of streets and ramparts, forts and its interruption was not, one of tha
and gateways, in the same manner as at lightest burdens of the war. Many of the
Strasbourg. Vanban strengthened and old churches date from the twelfth cen-
enlarged the work. The model of the tury. St. Stephen's cathedral is remark-
fortress was one of the treasures of a able for the beauty of its stained-glass
military museum at Paris, was taken windows. At the outbreak of the war
by the allies in 1815, and is now pre- the town was undoubtedly French in
served in Berlin. The city stands on spirit. The fairest German writers admit
the right bank of the Moselle, at a point this.
where the river about two hundred

is One morning Marshal Bazaine, ser-
paces wide. The Moselle and the Seille vitor of the Empire ami Mexican specu-
are crossed by seventeen bridges, few of lator, found that formidable forces had
which are architecturally fine. There hemmed him in on every side, as the
are seven gates in the walls, all im- result of the five days' lights, the ter-
mensely thick and strong. rible encounters at Mars la-Tour, at
In 18GG France began hastily to in- Gravelottc, and Borny, of those sangui-
crease the strength of Metz ; but the nary events which led to the catastrophe
Germans must have smiled in their of Sedan. Bazaine and his men dis-
sleeves as they reflected that this pre- covered thai Metz was really invested ;
caution came too late. Germany made that the enemy lay perdu all around
no distinct claim on Metz as upon Stras- them but no one could discover why
;
bourg ; but the Germans recall with Bazaine chose to remain besieged when
pride the fact that German arms are he might, with a great army, have east
:
310 Mil HOP]-: IN STORM AND CALM.
his fortune upon the adventure of a few province. The

soldiers in front of Metz
hours and tried to cut his way out. The regretted movement, and it is an
this
Prussians harried him night and day, open secret thai there was much sulki-
and wearied his broken soldiery very ness and even incipient mutiny for a
badly. Meantime General Steinmetz short time but it was soon forgotten
;
had been removed from the important amidst stronger excitements.

pest which lie had for srmie time held Prince Friederich Karl, now made com-
in tin' Prussian army, because the ven- manding-general in front of Metz, estab-
erable King of Prussia had declared that lished his head-quarters at Doncourt, to
lie would not always have bloodshed the which point the ••Battle of the live
The
only means of arriving at position. days" had extended; and there, while
dashing veteran general, a compound of suffering from a tedious illness produced
Blucher and Sheridan, had won great by excessive labor, he carried on his be-
praise by the rapidity, not to say reck- sieging operations. Nearly a quarter of
lessness, of his movements in August, a million men were stationed round about
lie had begun that chain of battles the fortress, and holding atbay, as it were,
which resulted so favorably to the Prus- a well-provisioned, healthy, and reason-
sian armies by crossing the Moselle and ably resolute army of nearly two hun-
advancing under the gates of Metz. Hut dred thousand men. Three marshals of
it so happened that he had disobeyed the the French Empire were also imprisoned
positive orders of his commander, to — in this living ring. From time to time
pass over the Moselle on the south side in- rumors of brilliant attempts on the
stead of the north. was claimed that
It part of these greal marshals to cut their
a great sacrifice of life in the Seventh and way through the Prussians reached the
Eighth terman army corps was due to this
( besieged residents
of Paris. But the
disobedience of orders, as, by the move- ringwas never cut.
ment commanded, Steinmetz would have Bazaine gave plenty of advice to his
avoided the French positions near Mos- men. He was always a good talker.
cow and St. Hubert, and the Germans An ex-confederate, who had met him in
would have had the advantage of higher Mexico, once said to me of Bazaine
ground than their enemies. It is also " C'est mi eauseur adorable quand il a
argued that Bazaine's return to Metz on deux verres de Cognac dans le ventre."
the morning of the 19th of August would But of real knowledge he had little and ;
have been impossible. So, although the his geographical acquirements were ridic-
aged General Steinmetz won an almost ulously small. lie told his men in Metz
incredible victory at Borny, he was rep- how to get out of the position into which
rimanded very severely by the King, he seemed to have forced them. lie
who scowled upon him as Washington said, '•You must be constantly on the
did upon Lee at Monmouth. Steinmetz alert to harass (he enemy. lie must
received the rebuke ill grim silence, and have no rest. With a few biscuits and
evidently did not appreciate it. The a great many cartridges, you must creep
King then ordered him to report to Prince' upon him at all hours, and shoot at him
Friederich Karl, which made him very from all positions. Offensive reconnoi-
angry, and his relations soon became so tring must be your strong point. This
bail with that general that he was re- must be done by columns, which can
called, and made Governor of a Prussian never get seriously injured. Very soon
you will know the enemy's positions. Men were found dead in spots where it
You keep up your own good-humor
will seemed as if no enemy and no enemy's
by constant adventures against him, and bullet could have penetrated. The ven-
you will eventually be able to get pro- detta of Metz began to have grave
visions, and even cannon. You must terrors for the bravest.
never be long away from camp. Your The Germans had excellent facilities
pickets must be on the qui-vive. You for observing the condition of the town,
must live, eat, hope, and dream on a but they could not forewarn troops
battle-field for, God knows, how many against these perpetual sorites. Up to
weeks and months yet." In conclusion the 30th of August it seemed to the
he said, on one occasion, "A most im- French as if Bazaine were still making
portant thing is to win as much time as efforts to free himself from the inimical
possible, for here, as in England, time is ring into which he had voluntarily re-
money." tired; and, just before the surrender of

In view of Bazaine's utter failure in Sedan, the army of Metz gave the be-
Metz how suspicious does this twaddling sieging armies a severe shock, and, for
advice sound ! It is not difficult to be- a few hours, seemed certain of victory.
lieve the accusation so often brought This was the fight in which a German
against him after the fall of the Empire, division was so severely cut up that a,
that he was a traitor, and that he had wail went out throughout all Germany.
deliberately made up his mind to sacri- The losses on the German side were the
fice his army rather than to strike a most tremendous of the war. Extra
blow which should profit the newly born efforts were at once made for the reduc-
Republic. tion of the town after this little experi-
Skirmishes and reconnaissances wei'e ence. The Germans wire very strongly
frequent enough in front of the old town entrenched, but now hastened to make
from Aug. 20 until late in September. their position stronger, and began to
A column of Argus-eyed Frenchmen, imitate the French plan of constant

hard-headed old boys, wary as Indians, sorties. The Moselle valley rang with
could any morning be seen filing out of the clash of arms. The Germans were
the gate of the city, the watchful ser- sometimes surprised at breakfast, and
geant at the head frowning if a man mown down before they could wink.
stepped on a twig. These little parties But this only happened when the out-
would suddenly upon a German out-
fall posts were kidnapped and carried away
post, spread an alarm along the line, without noise. Little by little, however,
back, burn, plunder, and destroy, and the endeavors of Bazaine himself to
sweep back again under cover of the promote sorties became less conspicuous ;
forts. Then would come a retaliatory but the imprisoned defenders rebelled
charge of Uhlans but these generally
; against the policy of inaction, and so all
left their bodies to repose in French soil. round the vast lines the annoying rushes
for there were sharp-shooters every- and the mysterious murders went on.
where, and it was unsafe some mornings On the east lay the German troops which
for the Germans even to go a few steps had been under Steinmetz's command,
outside the place of their encampment. — the First and Seventh army corps on ;
Death came on wings, and lighted even the south and west, the Guards, and the
into places apparently most secure. Second, Third, Fourth, Eighth, Ninth,
Tenth, and Eleventh army corps ; the Moselle, and all the other dogs of war
Saxon corps, the Twelfth, guarded the barked constantly. Sometimes a Ger-
north. man soldier on picket duty at the
There was, say the German accounts entrance of a little village was blown to
of the siege, at this time, a heavy, moist pieces, and little was found to signify
odor of death in the air night and day. that he had not deserted his post save a
It came from the hastily buried dead. gun, a helmet, or a. glove. Patrols and
The men threatened to mutiny on both pickets became so used to dodging
sides after the battle of lioruv, because death that they invented nicknames for
the\ were not allowed to bury the fast- the expedients they were obliged to
decaying horses, which had been left pursue. So the slow weeks passed.
uncovered, and which were breeding a Then came the sharp lighting at Mercy -
plague. But there was only time to le-Haut, south-east of Metz; and grad-
throw a thin covering of earth over them. ually September waned without results
As for soldiers who were killed a.t Metz on either side. The Prussians found it
during' the siege, in most cases their difficult to get enough to eat, and both
graves were dug but a foot deep, and, besiegers and besieged fell upon captured
in many instances, the feet and the hands knapsacks and shook out of them the
were left sticking out of the ground. pieces of bread which they contained
The market tenders, as the sutlers are with the eagerness of starvation. But
caller] in the German army, observing Germany began to send up provision-
that the troops drank more while this trains full of love gifts. October
horrible smell endured, used numerous arrived. The besieging troops heard
efforts to prevent them from burying the that the King and the Crown Prince
bodies, and even invented false alarms were in front of Paris. One or two
to divert burial parties from their work. more disastrous collisions, — disastrous
This statement, was seriously made in to both sides, —
and the, siege entered
letters written to Germany from the upon its final phase, that of sullen en-
camps of the besiegers. A few sutlers durance of privation by the invader
being shot, however, by order of the and the invaded.
commanders, this kind of enterprise was The German soldiers, during their long
checked. Dysentery came to rage in stay in front of Metz, contented them-

the cam]). Prince Friederich Karl was selves with simple diversions. They
struck down with the disease, and his carved on many a wooden cross, piously
death was announced many times. erected above the grave of fallen com-
Meantime Sedan had become known to rades, the oldGerman military legend :
—
all the world save to the besieged, and
before the sinister news Drei Salven gibt man mir.

it was not long
Ins Knlile grab hinein,
cot through the German lines, and de-
]>as ist Soldaten manitr —
termined Bazaine upon his sinful policy. Weilsie all zeit lustig sein.
The French forts kept up an aston-
ishingly brisk tire, slaughtering a few Some inscriptions had a rough humor
men every day at an immense cost of in them, recounting the exploits of
shot and shell, which justified the old heroes in the samemanner that an
proverb that it takes a ton of iron to Indian chief might recite the number of
kill a man. Forts Quelan, Quentin, his slain. But these of course were only
:: '
temporary ; no trace of them can be appointment because much-needed food

found to-day. had not come to hand, were taken by a.
Here is the menu of a cook attached number of their comrades to a neigh-
to the first company of the First Rhenish boring village, where they were informed
Jager Battalion :
— that provisions carried off from the
French were stored. The greedy and
Menu 17tii September to Octobei: 1st.
half-starved fellows rushed into a room
where they discovered nothing but huge
At sunrise
piles of splinters of French shells. Of
Coffee without milk. Chassepot bullets in
these they were coolly invited to partake ;
the earth-works.
and thenceforward they complained no
At noon : more.
Dessert after dinner, — distant roaring of Within Metz they were not given to
cannon from Fort Quentin. Grand concert, joking, but to serious endeavors to live.
immediate neighborhood hot. Beginning of The locust armies were rapidly eating the
symphony serves to hasten meals and assist
citizens out of house and home. On the
digestion.
13th of October, nearly ten days after
Evening : Paris had done a similar thing, the com-
Black-bread for supper. Spectacle, — burning mandant issued the following order con-
villages smoking to all corners of the heavens, cerning bread :
—
and St. Qucntin's guns shying shot at the em-
bankments until midnight.
From Thursday, October 10, only one kind
Dancing
of breail will be baked — made from corn.
This bread costs nine sous for two pounds.
Towards the enemy's works through wood
Every baker will receive from this day forward
and meadow until daylight, when the murder of
flour enough to supply the district which be
patrol parties begins as usual.
serves. The daily portion for every inhabitant
of the city established at four hundred
is
The camp literature was sometimes grammes an adult, two hundred grammes
for
for a child, and one hundred grammes for in-
exceedingly good. There were seven
fants under four. A baker can furnish bread
German poets killed before Metz, and,
who have a paper from the mayor
oidy to those ;
in the battles which preceded the actual and no one can receive more than the regular
siege, a gentleman who had made a fine portions.
"
translation of Longfellow's (
Hiawatha
fell to rise no more. A Sanscrit scholar This arrangement met with universal
sent home a report of an action in which favor so long as the corn lasted ; but corn
he was engaged written in Sanscrit. began gradually to give out ; and when
In his regiment there were three others Bazaine capitulated, there was neither
proficient in that tongue. Out of the bread nor salt to be found in his whole
German bodies of soldiery might any army nor in the town. Expedients for
day have stepped one hundred accom- food were of the most astonishing nature.
plished linguists, as out of the Massa- Men and women constantly came to the
chusetts regiment during the Rebellion commandant with propositions for the
stepped at call a hundred men, eaeli of manufacture of articles miraculous in
whom could construct a locomotive. and by which the
their sustaining power,
Some rather complaining Prussian whole army and the honor of France
pickets, one day having expressed dis- could be saved. But the very materials
314 EUROPE IS STORM AND CALM.
with which to make these substances German

soldiers had many privations
were lacking. The horses that were to undergo which were unknown to the
killed had been themselves so long with- French. The Lorraine peasantry were
out proper food and attention that the tilled with the bitterest hatred for their
little flesh remaining upon their bones conquerors, and many a picket lost his
afforded small nourishment. Early in life through the poisoning of the wells in
October this horse-meat became the only his neighborhood. So musketeers were
flesh available. The faces of the men posted at every well and brook from
began to show their sufferings, and the Saiirbrucken to Met/., and all around the
scurvy manifested itself here and there. besieged city and whenever a peasant
;
The Germans were even moved t<> tears was found near a well he was made to
by the exhibition of mingled pride and drink from it, to prove that he had not
greed given by French prisoners occa- been poisoning it. Notices were also
sionally brought into camp. Now it was posted announcing that if a peasant be-
a slight but wiry chasseur, who could not longing to any village in the surrounding
refrain from tilling the pockets of his country was found to have attempted
baggj trousers with bread and salt, that treachery against the troops, a number
he might luxuriate in these, to him. un- of the inhabitants of that village would
wonted blessings; and now a gigantic be shot. On one occasion the Mayor of
who ate enough to have main-
cuirassier, town was brought before a Ger-
a little
tained a squadron, but who proudly stated man officer, charged with having been
the fact was no hunger in
that there seen to put something into a well. lie
Met/.. 'Hie French officers, who came was dragged to it and made to drink re-
as parlementaires to arrange some truce peatedly from it. As he approached it.
for purposes necessary to both sides, he staggered, and turned pale from excite-
always proudly refused any invitations ment, not from guilt. In an instant
to dinner. The great hospitals at Met/, a hundred guns were levelled at his
were overcrowded with sick and wounded, breast, and he would have been shot to
and there was fear of pestilence ill them. pieces had he not recovered himself and
The Bridge of the Dead, over the Moselle, been able to demonstrate that the well-
had a new meaning in its name so ; water was still pure. The peasants were
many sorrowful processions had gone out in the habit of denying that they had
over day by day to bury their comrades
it grain or food of any kind when foraging
in the fields beyond. When the Em- parties visited them. After a time this
peror Napoleon was leaving Metz he enraged the Prussians, who bmned the
shook his head as the driver asked him houses of refractory fanners, and there-
if he should go over the Bridge of (lie after everything was at their disposal,
Dead, and told him to take the one next threat stores of grain were sometimes
below it. By the river-side stood a little found hidden in the most ingenious
child as the Imperial cortege passed on its manner, and considerable sums of money
runaway course, and the voice of that buried in the earth by owners who had
child was the only one in the town which tied away were brought to light. But
cried " Vivel'Empereur!" But the Em- these were never appropriated, the gen-
peror touched his hat with the same dig- eral orders of each day making it the
nity that he would have shown in saluting duty of every soldier to report things
an immense crowd. found at head-quarters.
The burning of villages seems to have through to inquire if anything could be

been very common ; and yet no good had to eat.
reason could be assigned for it. Visiting One day, old General Changarnier,
Metz just after the siege one. often came weak and trembling with his age and
upon blackened heaps of cinders running fatigues, went to see Prince Friederich
in two long parallel lines iu beautiful Karl at Doncourt. To this step —a
fields bordered by poplars. These sin- most humiliating one —
the condition of
ister relics denoted the site of some Bazaine and the Metz army had driven
hamlet which had met with the rude him. Bazaine, generally reserved and
fortune of war. frosty in his manner, hailed Changar-
The majority of the frontier villages nier's proposition with much delight.
were composed of low, one-story cottages, Such humiliations were mere prelimina-
built on each side of a long street. ries. The commander of Metz was
There was but little variety in the archi- indeed full of gloomy forebodings, and
tecture, and the public buildings were since the declaration of the Republic had
few and dingy. In ordinary times the been confirmed he had not scrupled to
notable figures of these little commu- say that the fortress was lost. He had
nities were the priest, the mayor, seen the declaration of the Emperor's
one of the gorgeous country police, a fall received with acclamations by many
rich farmer or two, fat, churlish, and of his own men. Desertions began ;
wearing huge blue blouses over their men stricken with whose
fever, men
broad cloth coats and their capacious scrawny limbs trembled under them, and
waistcoats. who loathed the sight of the unwholesome
But on the avenues of these frontier food given them, went boldly into the
towns, after the siege, there were no enemy's camp and asked for protection
signs of country prosperity, nothing but and provisions in exchange for their
a few sentinels lazily strolling up and liberty and their arms. The German
down, a spy being conveyed in a cart to prisoners brought into Metz were accus-
the place of his trial, a few women tomed to taunt the men with stories
brooding over the loss of husband or about the well-fed prisoners and de-
home, or a squadron of cavalry ridiug serters in the German lines.
;i(i EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER TIHRTY-TIIKEE.
The Surrender of Metz. -The Suspicious Natuvo of] lazainc's Negotiations. — The Envoy from the Fallen
Imperialists. The Allan- of the Flags. — The Prisoners in Front of Metz, and in Camps in Cicr-
—
r>. ENERAL CHANGARNIER found signed. There the man who had shown
\-A Friederieb Karl sullen, angrj, and such astonishing indecision that he was
not over-polite. To tell the truth, this suspected even I > v his fellow-Imperialists,
warrior's temper had been spoiled by the long before bis policy had become plain,
fact that he had been compelled to stay, of wishing to deliver his army into the
as it were, on the outskirts of Franco, bands of the < lermans,gave up his prison-
when he wished to have been Hying ers, — sixty-seven regiments of infan

through the country, terrifying a new try, and thirteen battalions of chasseurs,
city every day. sleeping in the saddle, of which there were ten regiments of
living on a crust for a week, making cuirassiers, one Guidon regiment, eleven
forced marches, etc. He adored hard- of dragoons, two of lancers and three
ships, but he wished to confront them of hussars, six of chasseurs, three of
in the midst of stronger excitements than CJiassenrs d'Afrique, and six garrison
those of a .siege. squadrons, as well as one hundred and
So had but few words of comfort
lie fifteen field batteries r.nd seventeen bat-
for, and asked many exactions from, teries of the famous mitrailleuse, which
Changarnier. The old general went was, by the way, a complete failure in the
back sick at heart, murmuring that the Held. The army of Bazaine had originally
Prince had maltreated him. and said no two hundred ami twenty-one battalions,
moie. lie had given up the campaign. the garrison of Metz, consisting of eigh-
.lust outside the range of the shells teen battalions, and one hundred and
from Fort Quentin stood the beautiful sixty-two squadrons, the guard of the
chdteauoi Frascati, deserted by its owner Grenadier regiments, three cavalry regi-
at an early stage of the siege. The ments, a guard of the lancers, a guard of
Pomeranians were posted there, and the chasseurs and the Chasseur* d'Afrique,
weary watchers in Metz nightly heard but some of these latter constituted the
them roar their northern songs. These personal guard of the Emperor, and had
same Pomeranians were the rough-and- left Metz witli him. They, with the Cent
ready fellows who went post-haste across Gardes, were included in the Sedan capitu-
the country when their work was done lation. Bazaine had at first two hundred
at Metz toplunge into the southern cam- and ten thousand able men ; but when the
paign. The chdteau, surrounded by one time of capitulation came he had thirty-
of the finest parka in France, had long six thousand sick and wounded on his
been the glorv of the suburbs of Met/., hands.
and to-day is one of the most interesting Right glad were the German troops
of European castles, for there the great- when they heard that surrender was cer-
est capitulation of modern times was tain, for they had had enough of extent'
EUROrE IN STORM AND CALM. 317
pore living. A soldier, writing a day hour and a half with the Prussian com-
or two before Changarnier's attempt to mander, his aged frame trembled and
treat with Prince Friederieh Karl, said, tears streamed down his face lie said,
" We are seeing hard times, but exercis- "Gentlemen, we must fall, but with honor.
ing and dress are attended to just as if I hope that you and your brave soldiers
we were in a garrison. My quarters are may never experience such anguish as 1
in a hay-loft, where I have provided for have felt." On way back, after lie
his
my comfort as best I can. For food was in the French lines, he saw some
we have biscuit and bacon only. My soldiers groping for potatoes in the
elothes-brush serves my company as boot, fields, and stopped tothem that the
tell
tooth, rifle, nail, and garment cleaner. Germans were splendid antagonists, and
Our handkerchiefs are used as coffee- that they must show their best qualities
strainers, bandages, and neck-cloths al- against such an enemy.
ternately. Mantles serve as table-cloths, So, on the 27th October, Prince Fried-
swords as beefsteak choppers, their hilts erieh Karl came down to the Chateau
as coffee-mills and hard-tack breakers." Fraseati to be near at hand for a. con-
The journals of the besieged town, sultation. A French division-general
printed on paper of all colors, — choco- represented Bazaine. and General Von
late, gray, and brown, — had evidently Stiehle, the Prussian army. Thearticles
given the inhabitants and the army but were signed, after a severe struggle, about
small hope. One ami all spoke very dis- eleven o'clock at night. The King sent
couraginglyof the condition of the French to request the French otticers to retain
provinces. They also announced, on the their swords. Food was at once sent for-
25th of October, that the raw weather ward to the town, and the German soldiers
had caused the death of immense num- heard much shouting, as of men begging
bers of horses, and that a great party and hustling about the provision carts,
among the inhabitants was German in until early dawn. And so it came to
demanding peace. "The only nourish- pass, that in October Germany had as
ment now in the town," sadly recorded prisoners within her boundary one hun-
one paper, " is salt meat and fresh dred and forty-eight French generals,
water." six thousand officers, and three bundled
Old General Changarnier only went and twenty-three thousand men of rank
out on his mission to the Germans after aud file while as yet France had taken
;
urgent solicitation on the part of his but two thousand one hundred Germans
comrades, aud not until Bazaine had as prisoners of war.
been urged to attempt an escape with a So it happened that, in the dullest of
part of his army in the direction of weather, with death iu their hearts, and
Gravelotte. "Even if you do not es- with very little food in their stomachs,
cape," urged the generals, " and if we the Imperial Guards, which had marched
are made prisoners, we shall save the out of Paris scarcely three months lie-
garrison and the fortress by giving them fore to the sound of inspiring music, on
a little more time." But Bazaine the beginning of their triumphal march
would not hear of this, aud so old Gen- to Berlin, defiled through the great for-
eral Changarnier went blindfolded to tress gate and past Prince Friederieh Karl
the Chateau Fraseati. When he came and his generals assembled.
back to Metz, after an interview of an So it happened, that the dreary pro-
cession began, one army, conquered, de- peror, Napoleon the Great, stood before
filing past another but little larger than the grave of Potsdam;
Frederick, at
itself. in October, was the Battle of
1812,
So it happened, that the marvellous Leipsie ; October, 1815, saw Napoleon
German railway organization came once I. at St, Helena; October, 1830, saw
more into play. All civil trains on the Louis Napoleon's attempt to proclaim
Baden and Palatinate routes were sus- himself Emperor at Strasbourg; Octo-
pended, and ten thousand Frenchmen, ber, 1840, saw him sentenced to impris-
daily, were expressed into Germany, onment; and October, 1871, brought
with the same precision and skill with the capitulation of Metz.and the coro-
which the Teutonic troops were sent upon nation of King William of Prussia as
to theFrench frontier a little while pre- Emperor of United Germany and Con-
vious. The French marshals, Bazaine, queror of Fiance at Versailles. It was
Canrobert, and Le Boeuf, were sent on to also in October, in that wild year 1552,
Cassel, to tell the story to their captive that Henry II. sent his army to seize
Emperor; and the German press of the upon Metz, Troves, and Verdun, while
day recorded, with a grim satire, that in Charles V. was troubled with religious
the French marshals' train were twenty wars in Germany. Up came the fiery
thousand pounds of luggage. Emperor with a tremendous army at his
So it happened, that the Crown Prince hack, when he heard that the French
and Prince Friederich Karl got to be were in the Trois-Eveehes and down ;
marshals, and Yon

Moltke became a he sat before Metz and began his opera-
count; that long trains of food from tions with a formidable park of cavalry
England, from Belgium, from the Rhine, for those days. But lie went away in
were hurried through the bal tie-stricken the winter of 1553, leaving his tents
country to relieve the starving people behind him, convinced that he could not
in Metz ; that the Pomeranians took up overcome the valor of Francois de iuise ( ;
their tremendous line of march to the and so great was his anger and humilia-
south ; that a flaming farewell order was tion that he cried out: "I see, now,
issued by the German commander to that Fortune is indeed a woman. She
those veterans who did not go on farther favors the young and disdains the old."
into the campaign ; that the peasants Bazaine, and all the members of the
stole wood and down from
out from Imperial Party, have insisted, ever since
mountain to resume their work that the ; the trial of the unlucky Marshal in
ploughshares now and then probed a 187.'5, that he was the victim of circum-
grave so new that it was horrible; that stances ; that the French, horror-stricken
tin- dull battle stench for miles around and humiliated by the crushing series of
gradually went away ; and that by night defeats which had come upon them, felt
the fields ech 1 no longer to the scream- it necessary to assert that they were be-
ing of shells and the rattle of musketry trayed, and hurled all the fury of their
Bre, hut to cheery German soldier accusation upon the soldier who was in
songs. command of the head-quarters-genera]
Many wonderful military events in the of the army. French pride was indeed
history of France and Prussia have oc- more bitterly hurt by the surrender of
curred in this same sinister October. Metz than by any other event of the
In 1800, in October, the victorious Em- war. That the town around which so
EUHOPE IN STORM AND CALM. 319
many glorious remembrances clustered, because it thus gave to France the time
and which had been associated with so to organize resistance, and to the armies
many striking events in French history. in course of formation time to be brought
could have been handed over without a together.
final valorous effort for its relief seems That he was unpatriotic and partisan
incomprehensible, unless its commander seems clearly proven. On the 2yd of
were influenced by unworthy motives. September, a Prussian parlementaire
It seems clear — reviewing with the presented himself at the French picket
utmost impartiality the course of Marshal line, bearing a letter from Friederich
Bazaine from the 12th of August. 1870, Karl for Marshal Bazaine. A little
the day on which he took into his hands behind him was a man on foot, with a
the chief command of the army of the white poeket-handerchief tied to the end
Rhine, up to the evening of the 27th of a stick. The Prussian parlementaire
of October, when the capitulation was delivered his letter, and was about to
signed — that Bazaine did not do his ride away, when the French officer who
duty. Whether it was because he had come out to meet him said, •• Who is
desired for a consideration to betray the this man with you?" —
-'He is not with
immense army under his leadership to me, and I do not know him," replied the
the Germans, or hoped that the forces Prussian officer, galloping off. The indi-
of the broken French Empire might rally, vidual then declared that he had a mis-
and that he might, by some clever com- sion for Marshal Bazaine, and wished
bination, contribute to the weakness of to speak with him at once. So he was
the Republic, and help to restore the brought into the lines. When he reached
Imperial throne, the world will probably tin'town the French officer who was con-
never know. His conduct, whatever dueling him asked him whom he should
might have been its motive, was pitia- announce to the Marshal. "You may
ble. He might, by joining forces with say that it is an envoy from Hastings,"
MacMahon in the closing days of was the answer. It was at Hastings
August, have prevented the disaster of that the Empress Eugenie had taken
Sedan ; and, in response to the pressing- refuge after her flight from Paris.
despatches which were sent him, urging Marshal Bazaine at once received this
him to be ready to affect the junction, person, whose name was Regnier, into
he responded only by puerile excuses. his private office and there, according
;
At one time he said that he could not to testimony furnished at the trial of
move because of lacking ammunition ; Bazaine, Regnier declared that he had
and, on that very day, in curious illus- come to propose either to Marshal Can-
tration of the absolute disorganization robert or to General Bourbaki to go to
of the army, four millions of cartridges, England to place themselves at the dis-
the very existence of which in the ar- position of the Regent, as the Empress
senal had been ignored up to that time was then called. But the testimony
by the general commanding the place, clearly establishes that Regnier appeared
were discovered. To all the appeals for to have brought to Marshal Bazaine a
the powerful aid which his well-disci- proposition that he should sign a treaty
plined and vigorous army could have permitting the army of Metz to retire
given, his only answer was, that the army into a neutral zone, and that he should
ought to remain under the walls of Metz, Vie allowed to leave the fortress with
military honors on condition of no to communicate with the fallen Em-

further resistance to the Germans during press.
the course of the war. Bazaine, it is All this was certainly enough to make
true, resolutely declared at his trial, that Republican France believe that the com-
neither he nor any of his comrades would mander-in-chief of the Army of the
have consented to any conditions such Rhine, who ought to have fought his
as those which would have divided the way out of Met/, two mouths before,
National Defense. Regnier, who was was nothing less than a traitor. When
called as a witness in the trial, took care General Changarnier was sent to treat
to keep out of (lie way. It is variously with Piince Fiiederich Kail, he was
supposed that he was an ageni of Von charged by Bazaine to demand the neu-
Bismarck, or that he was a real envoy tralization of the Army of the Rhine,
from the Imperialist 1'artv, whose aims and the territory that it occupied, and
were furthered by Bismarck, because that an armistice, during which an appeal
wily diplomat saw that if Bazaine were was to lie made to the deputies and to
allowed to believe himself the arbiter the constituted powers, under virtue of
of the defense of France he could be the constitution of May, 1870, for a
duped in any manner desirable. Regn- treaty of peace between the two antago-
ier certainly made a definite offer to nists. There is also a fine flavor of
Canrolieit and to Bourbaki to go to the Imperialism in the phrase in which
Empress, and Bourbaki accepted and Bazaine asks that he be allowed to fulfil
went. )n the Kiih of October Bazaine,

< a mission of order, meaning, of course,
instead of cutting his way out of Metz that the obliging enemy should let him
and going to help the regularly consti- pass through its lines and go to put
tuted government of his country in its down the new Republic in Paris,
resistance to invasion, sent. General The affair of the flags at the time
Boycr to Versailles, where that general of the surrender of Metz put the linish-
entered into a long series of interviews ing touch to Bazaine's disastrous career.
with Count Von Bismarck relative to the The Republicans stoutly claim that, had
surrender of Met/.. All that General it not been for his stupid hesitation, aud
Boycr got out of Bismarck was that the for the multiplicity of his orders and
conditions imposed lor the raising of the counter-orders, all the flags of the gar-
siege were that the fidelity of the army rison would have been burned, and the
of the Rhine to the Empress Eugenie French nation would have been spared
should be fully affirmed, that a mani- the shame of knowing that hundreds
testation of this fidelity should be pub- of its banners are exhibited in Berlin,
licly made in Met/, on the part of the As it was, many a valiant general and
army, and that even the signature of colonel, with that reckless defiance of
the Empress to the preliminaries of a military discipline which came with a.
treaty of peace should lie obtained, disgust for Bazaine's course, burned the
General Boyer returned to Metz with Hags of their commands, or broke them
these conditions, laid them before a a. id trampled them into the earth, and
council, in which Bazaine, General sent word to the commander of the place
Ladmirault, Marshal Le Boeuf, and to say that they had done so. Shortly
many other important officers, took after the capitulation of Met/, a gentle-
part, and then went over to England man resident in Germany wrote me as
El ROPE IX STORM AND CALM. 821
follows: ''Wore it not for the presence writer indeed cries out that these are not
of somany prisoners and the wounded, the soldiers of France, not the succes-
Germany would have some difficulty in sors of the men who followed Napoleon
realizing that she now carrying on a
is the Great, who never allowed themselves
tremendous war hundreds of miles away to be taken prisoners by wholesale, as do
in the centre of a formidable enemy's the present generation. This is true
country ; for our streets are as thronged enough; but the soldiers of the old Na-
as ever, business is about
normal in its poleon, beaten as they were at last, had
condition, and the high schools and uni- always something to fight for, and
versities are filled up with youth, despite leaders whom they could always trust;
the many scholars, doctors, and profess- while in 1870, from Weissenburg to
ors now on the battle-fields. A visit to Sedan, the campaign on the French side
the unbidden French guests and their was a mass of confusion, imbecility, and
encampments in the various cities tells unskilfulness of the leaders, and fight-
us what the Germans are doing in France ing of the men without purpose to be
and have done. They sent in 1,000 pris- achieved. Napoleon himself complains
oners from Weissenburg G,000 from ; that his generals would not obey his
Woerth 2,500 from Spicheren
; 1,377 ; commands; while the prisoners here con-
from Saargemuud and Haguenau; '200 stantly repeat the reproach :
• We have
from Vionville 3,000 from Gravelotte;
; been sold; we have been sold.'
8,050 from Vitry 2,800 from Beau-
;
" I have visited a number of the
mont; 84,450 from Sedan; 2,280 from French camps in Germany, and arrive
Toul 15,000 from Strasbourg 5,000
; ; at the conclusion that these very prison-
from before Paris, and 173,000 from ers will be a great help to Germany
Metz. Altogether this makes a grand when they return to their native land.
total of about 330,000 men, including The French soldiers started for the
10,000 officers and 4 marshals. Rhine, expecting to most
find, as the
" Three hundred and thirty thousand ! ignorant had been told, a people some-
This is nearly the whole of the grand thing akin to the Cossacks of the Don,
army of the Rhine, with which Napoleon or, as a French school-book informs the
set out to conquer Germany and take youthful mind, savages upon the sand
possession of the Rhine provinces, and plains of Hanover. Pomerania was to
to sign the treaty of peace in Kcenigs- them a wilderness. They knew nothing
burg or Berlin. It is not difficult to ex- whatever of Germany except Prussia ;
plainwhy Germany made this immense but they will return home with vastly dif-
number of prisoners. First, the Ger- erent opinions of Germany and the Ger-
mans themselves had special inducements mans, have been treated with a
for they
to them alive, especially poor
capture kindness as surprising as it was gener-
Turco, who had many a prize set upon ous. The first batch of one thousand
his black head. Something in the fol- coming in from Weissenburg was re-
lowing style of telegram was received ceived with silence by vast crowds, and
by Count Bismarck: 'One thousand was the recipient of favors which even
good cigars for the first German soldiers the German soldiers did not obtain.
who capture the first But
live Turco.' The greatest good feeling has been pro-
the hearts of the French do not seem to duced between citizens and prisoners;
have been in their work. A French for, although excursion trains are run
every Sunday to the French camp, the This good-natured letter, in which the
people wlio go only go to do good offices, German feeling is fairly represented,
:ind not merely to stare. The German unfortunately does not convey the entire
ladies have been somewhat censured for truth. There was great suffering, moral
the great desire they manifest to and physical,among the thousands of
give their French an airing. The op- prisoners, especially after the cold
portunity to speak French with a native weather set in. and many accounts pub-
does not come every day, and the fair lished shortly after the return of the
beings may therefore he excused. Es- prisoners indicate that, while the treat-
pecially among the wounded, where the ment by the civilians was uniformly kind
French and Germans occupied the same and reasonably courteous, the military
rooms, the latter have at times a. cause authorities were harsh and sometimes
of complaint that German ladies should vindictive. The tent encampments, out-
have preferred to notice the French. In side fortresses like Magdeburg, Cob-
a Saxon hospital two good fellows de- lentz, Mainz. Stettin, Glogau, Erfurt,
termined, not long ago, to take advantage Posen, and Wesel, each containing from
of this curiosity on the part of their lady five to ten thousand prisoners, were the
visitors, and as one of their number scene of much misery, and sometimes of
could speak French like a Frenchman, the most tragic deaths. High-spirited
they dressed him up as a prisoner, and men. like General Ducrot ami others,
every one desiring to see the French would not stand the long-inflicted hu-
wounded was at once referred to him. miliation, and boldly made their es-
One lady was so charmed by his story cape. Ducrot was bitterly accused by
and his language that she not only took the Germans of having violated his
his address, but made him a present of word of honor in thus escaping;
some money. No sooner had she disap- but he has sufficiently defended him-
peared than loud laughter burst forth. self against this charge in his able
The supposed Frenchman rose a stout work on the early part of the cam-
Saxon, and the money thus won was dis- paign.
tributed among the comrades."
—
CHAPTER TIITRTY-FOUR.
The Desperate Battles .it I, e Bourget. Remarkable Valor of the French. — Episodcsof the Defense. —
—
The Charge of the Marines. — Thiers ami Bismarck. —
The Insurrection of the 31st of October.
Brilliant Conduct of Jules Ferry.
THE numerous
Parisians, despite their
had
none of their
Frenchmen was subjected to a terrible
disasters, lost artilleryfire for more than five hours.
traditional gayety of speech, and were Nearly every house in Le Bourget was
able to say, when they heard that Gen- riddled with shell ; but the troops held
eral Aurelles de Paladines had bad bis firm, and at nightfall the enemy had to
army cut in two, — "That
make two will retire. There were two severe attacks
armies instead of one, and makes ns made there the same evening, one of —
just so much the stronger." But light them by the grenadiers of the Prussian
and pleasant sayings do not always go Guard but this was repulsed, and,
;
with ligbt hearts, and after the terrible meantime a battalion of Mobiles, under
affair of Le Bourget the resistance of tin' command of a valiant young officer
Paris lost its hopeful character. M. named Baroche, arrived from St. Denis.
Jules Favre says that it precipitated the All night the contending forces wmked
insurrection of the 31st of October. at strengthening their positions, and at
The village of Le Bourget was a very dawn the battle began anew with great
important situation for an army invest- fury.
ing Paris ; and the Prussians had seized Le Bourget suffered a second bom-
it aud held it until the 28th of October, bardment, more than forty cannon
at which tune the Francs-Tireurs of the throwing shells for nine hours into the
press made a descent upon it, and, sur- now half-wrecked houses, in which three
prising the Prussians in their sleep, took thousand men were intrepidly defending
possession, making many prisoners and themselves. It is said that on this day
killing large numbers of the enemy. the Prussians threw two thousand shells
It was not at all to the taste of the into this one long street of Le Bourget.
Germans to see the batteries which they The Prussians were hindered from mak-
had established Pont Iblon and ad-
at ing an overpowering night attack by the
jacent places seriously menaced so, at ;
electric light, thrown from the forts,
ten o'clock on the morning of the French which lit up the fields fur miles around,
occupation, the Germans who bad es- and prevented the massing of troops at
caped came back strongly reinforced, the proper points.
and made a tremendous attack. The On Sunday, the .".nth of October, the
Francs-Tireurs bad their feeble forces Germans, about fifteen thousand strong,
strengthened by a few companies of with forty-eight cannon, made a final at-
Mobiles, and they made a defense of the tack. Fifteen batteries threw converg-
position which they had so recently ing lire upon the town ; and, in less (ban
taken which may deservedly rank with half an hour after the attack on Sunday
that of Chateaudun. The little band of morning, the sixteen hundred French-
324 El ROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
men who remained of the brave defend- rounded by a hundred of the bravest of
ers of Le Bourgel had had tin-own ;il (he soldiers. On the right, the com-
them fifteen hundred shells. The two mandant Baroche, who had with him
French officers Brassour and Baroche about sixty men, determined to die
appear to have conducted themselves like rather than surrender, and when he was
veritable heroes. The fight on Sunday struck down by a, shell he begged his
seemed to have awakened the pride of soldiers, with his dying breath, to hold out
the Germans, who fancied that they hail half an hour, " because, "he said, "help
in front of them a large French lone; was certain to arrive in that time."
and the Queen Elizabeth regiment of the Tin' officer Brasseur, when the barri-
Prussian Guard came up at half-past cade which he had been defending was
eight in the morning, with its band carried by a charge of several hundred
playing, and its dags flying, to carry the of the enemy, shut, himself, with seven
first barricade at the entrance of the \ il- other officers and about twenty soldiers,
lage. The troops ran forward with their into the church, and kept up a vigorous
usual " Hurrah " but they were met by
! a (irefrom the windows until his little band
strong fusillade, so deadly, that, accord- was literally crushed. When he was
ing to the testimony of the Germans driven into a corner, and forced to give
themselves, nothing had been seen like up his sword, he wept like ft child. The
it in the war. Prussian officer who took the weapon was
"As the Second battalion of the regi- deeply affected, and could not refrain
ment came up." says a German writer, from strongly complimenting him on his
'•one of the color-sergeants was shot personal courage. The Prince of YVur-
down. A young officer ran forward, temburg the next day sent back the
seized the flag, which was falling to the sword with his persona] compliments.
ground, and, as he raised it up, also fell That the Prince was deeply impressed by
mortally wounded. A general then dis- this heroic defense is shown by his proc-
mounted from his horse, seized the flag, lamation, issued from the head-quarters
and, holding il high above his head, at Gonesse, on the 30th, in which he
rushed forward in frontof his grenadiers. speaks of Le Bourget having been de-
Two colonels of the regiments engaged fended by the best troops in the Paris
in the charge were killed in the front garrison against the Second division of
rank of their troops. The general, the Infantry corps, with certain special
however, who had seized the flag, seemed troops which had been joined to it.
lo hear a charmed life." The hardy This light cost the Germans a large
German pioneers, with their axes and number of their best officers and more
crowbars, worked away at a. breach; than three thousand soldiers. What
and in a. short time the little French might not such troops as the defenders
band found itself taken between two of Le Bourget have done had they been
fires. The town was not given up properly commanded, and had the gen-
until, out of the sixteen hundred men. erals inside Paris known how to utilize
twelve hundred eombatauts were taken tin' three hundred or three hundred and
prisoners, slain, or wounded. fifty thousand men who remained useless
Near the church in the interior of the inside the ramparts the greater portion
village the officer Brasseur, already of the period of the siege?
mentioned, held out to the last, sur- There was another and almost as san-
EUROPE fN STORM AND CALM. 325
guinary encounter between flic besiegers one else if he could do his country ser-
and the beseiged at this same Le vice. The news .if Hi.' capitulation of
Bourget towards the close of December, Metz almost crushed the little man for
inwhich occurred the celebrated charge the lime being; but he concealed his
by a battalion of marines supported by anxiety.

a detachment of troops of the French On his return from Tours, where he
line under the orders of a noted naval had been aiding Gambettain the organi-
captain. This charge of the marines, zation of the defense in the south, he
with their revolvers and hatchets in was obliged to pass through Versailles,
hand, upon the German troops who had and to make acall upon Count, Bismarck,
taken up position in the cemetery of to whose desire to appear in the eves of
Le Bourget, has become legendary in Europe perfectly fair he owed his safe
France, and has been chosen by many of conduct through the Prussian lines.Few
the military painters as a fitting subject interviews between celebrated men have
for the illustration of the French valor ever been stranger than this one be-
which proved of so little avail. tween the ambitions Prussian Chancellor
This second attack was crowned with and the accomplished French statesman,
only partial success ; and the marines, tinder these trying circumstances, which
who had at first been so successful, were required all their and
self-control
badly cut to pieces before they came out politeness. When Bismarck received
of the affair.This battle at Le Bourget Thiers he at once said. " I know that
was part of a general scheme for an we have no right to talk business, and I
attack upon Montretout, Buzenval, and shall scrupulously refrain from any
other important positions, where, how- mention of it." The two gentlemen,
ever, the German line proved always too therefore, entered upon a general con-
strong to be broken through. versation, which was brief, and which
While these heroic efforts for the de- must have exhausted all their artifices.
liverance of Paris were in progress, during M. Thiers was escorted to the Bridge of
the last days of October, the venerable Sevres, and was allowed free passage to
M. Thiers hail been doing some vigor- the lines of his friends.
ous work in behalf of unhappy France, That the formidable insurrection of
and comforting the Government of Na- the 31st of October was nipped in the
tional Defense with the assurance that bud was due largely to the energetic
the four great neutral powers, England. conduct of one man, who has since
Russia, Austria, and Italy, were willing become very prominent in French affairs,
to propose to the belligerents an armis- — M. Jules Ferry. When the Hotel de
tice, with a view to the convocation of a Ville was invaded by the immense crowds
French national assembly ; also, that this who were disloyal to the Government of
armistice would have for its conditions National Defense, M. Ferry was the
the revictnalling of Paris and the un- first to assume an attitude of bold resist-
trammelled election of the country's rep- ance, and he maintained it until all the
resentatives. M. Thiers was full of troubles were over. The insurrection
energy and hope. He sacrificed himself began as insurrections in Paris have
to the interests of the moment, pocket- begun since time immemorial, by the —
ing his and was willing to go
pride, invasion of the hall in which flic regu-
hither and yon to meet Bismarck or any larly constituted authorities were deli;.-
erating. M. Jules Favre has given us Jules Simon was violently maltreated by
a striking picture of this invasion of the the Communists. Delescluze, destined
Council Room, where he was seated with afterwards todie upon a barricade in the
General Trochu, M. Gamier Pages, M. Commune, openly expressed his contempt

Jules Simon, and Ernest Picard. The and disdain for Jules Favre. The volun-
tiery Flourens and Milliere, afterwards teers of the National Guards from Belie-
so conspicuous in the Commune, were at ville, infuriated with drink and with their
the head of the National Guards, the ephemeral victory, repeatedly hinted at
grim workmen, the volunteers in all the massacre of their prisoners. Flou-
kinds of fantastic uniforms, who rushed reus was, from time to time, obliged to
into the room uttering savage cries, and appeal to his followers not to give the
who would have been willing to stain world the spectacle <>f a fratricidal en-
their hands in the blood of the men who counter. " Let us avoid the shedding
had been doing their best to serve them, of blood," he said ; "but let us carry our
Flourens considered the insurrection as point."
and harangued the citizens,
successful, Jules Favre was twice in imminent
saying they had overturned the
that danger of death. A dozen muskets were
government which had betrayed them, levelled at his head. " It was," he says,
lie at once nominated himself, Milliere, " a solemn but imposing moment, and 1
Delescluze, Rochefort, Blanqui, and still ask myself how it was that no one
others, instead of those whom he pre- of these men, most of whom were com-
tended to overthrow and his followers ; pletely intoxicated did not press the trig-
sanctioned by shouts whatever he said, ger of his gun."
" During this burlesque scene," says The government was liberated from
Jules Favre, " we did not budge from its disagreeable and rather humiliating
our scats. General Trochu took off his position the same night by the energetic
epaulettes, and passed them to one of action of a little body of National Guards,
his officers who was near him; "and he friendly to the national cause. The
told M. Favre afterwards, that he had leaders of the insurrection retired once
done this no as to put the insignia of his more into the shade, muttering ven-
militaiv authority beyond the reach of geance dire upon those who had dared
an affront. lie quietly lit a. cigarette, to interfere with them. Jules Ferry had
and waited the movements of the rioters. been at the head of the column which
The story is too long to give in detail forced the gates of the Hotel de Ville, and
here. Enough to say that the ( lovernment finally compelled the rioters to retire. For
of National Defense narrowly escaped a few minutes it looked as if he would
complete annihilation on this unfortunate pay with his life for his audacity; but
day. The Commune was already starting his magnetism was so strong
personal
from its concealment, and was admir- and his language was so energetic that
ably organized with a view to replacing they dared not harm him, and he carried
instantly, and with as little collision as his point against them. In January of
possible, the government which alone had 1871 lie was a prominent figure in the
tin' right to call itself national. The second resistance against a body of
members Committee of National
of the insurgents, who came after the disastrous
Defense were prisoners in the hands of fight at Montretout to attack the Hotel
these insurrectionists for several hours, de Ville.
November came gloomy and full of

in asking for Paris," I said to him; "you
menaces of war. The little band of refuse to revictual the capital during the
members of the Government of National armistice, thus takinga month of our
Defense found that the attempt upon its resistance away from us. To exact
authority had strengthened its hold upon from us one or more of our forts is
the affections of all truly patriotic citi- nothing less than demanding our ram-
zens, and. appealing to the population parts. You want us, in short, to give
for support, it received a vote of confi- you the means of starving us out or
dence which was highly gratifying. For bombarding us. In treating with us for
the time being the government contented an armistice you could hardly suppose
itself with removing from their military that the capital condition would be to
positions Floureus and all the others abandon Paris to you, Paris, which —
who had held important places in the is our supreme force, our great hope,
insurrection; and about this time Roche- and for you so great a difficulty that
fort, who was gradually becoming iden- after fifty days of siege you have not yet
tified with the Radical Party and with taken it."
the cause of the Communists, which lie " When we got to this point," says
afterwards vainly disavowed, resigned M. Thiers, "we could go no further.
his position as a member of the govern- Whereupon Count Von Bismarck de-
ment. M. Thiers had not been able to clared that if the French government
give his advice to the governing powers wished to hold elections without an ar-
during the difficult days through which mistice, he would offer no hindrance to
they had just passed, for he hail re- a free election of representatives in all
turned at once to Versailles, anxious to the sections occupied by the Prussian

conclude an armistice. This time he armies, and would facilitate communica-
was enabled to talk business with Count tion between Paris and Tours for every-
Von Bismarck ; and he has left ou record thing except military despatches."
a singularly bright and sparkling account There is doubt that after this
little
of the manner in which he urged his stern refusal on the part of the Germans
claims, and the claims of his beloved to interrupt the course of the war M.
capital, upon the accomplished represent- Thiers gave up all hope of a successful
ative of the conquering party. He re- resistance. He had done his duty,
mained three or four days at Versailles, and accomplished what no other man
meeting the Chancellor very frequently, in France could have done. He had
and fancied that he was about to carry pleaded the cause of Paris at the courts
his point, when, on the evening of the 3d of England, Russia, Austria, and Italy,
of November, he asked Count Von Bis- making light, even at his advanced age,
marck what guarantees he was likely to of the great physical and intellectual
ask during the suspension of hostilities. strain to which he was subjected during
Bismarck made the same answer that he journeys doubly wearisome because of
had made to Jules Favre at Ferrieivs. the suspense concerning affairs at home
that he should require a military position which hung perpetually about his heart.
in front of Paris."One fort." he added ; He, more clearly than any one else, saw
" perhaps more than one." that the war was to be to its very close a
" I immediately interrupted the Chan- fatal one for France but, gallantly keep-
;
cellor," says M. Thiers. " You are ing his doubts and despairs to himself, he
returned from Versailles to 'rums, and from Creuzot, he brought cannon ; at
placed himself at the disposal of the Angouleme millions of cartridges were

delegates there. made. lie even thought atone time of
It was no light work which Gambetta sending cartridges into Paris by balloon,
had undertaken in the South. When he With all these interests of the nation in
arrived at Toms half the important his hands, and being himself virtually
fortresses in the country had capitulated, dictator of all France outside of Paris
and the others — Paris, Phalsbourg, Me- for mouths, bis fidelity to bis trust was
zieres, Thionville, Bitehe, Montmedy, so complete and perfect that, when later
and Verdun — were surrounded bylines in bis political career the slanderous
of iron and steel, and their condition accusation was brought against him
was almost hopeless. Gambetta seemed of having profited by the manufacture
t<> bring men and muskets and cannon of arms for the country's defenders,
out of the very earth. With his powerful the whole French nation, with the ex-
and seductive eloquence he won the ceptiou of his few slanderers, rose in
hearts of the enthusiastic southern popu- revolt against such an injury; and he
Iations. lie created a commission of proved beyond the shadow of doubt
armament, which, in three months, de- that not only had he not received the
livered into the hands of men who un- millions falsely attributed to him, but.
fortunately did not know how to use that he had not profited by as much as a
them, one two hundred thousand
million single sou in any of his public labors in
guns. From Nantes, from St. Etienne, his country's behalf.

EUROPE J.V STORM AND CALM. 329
CHAPTER TIIIUTY-Fl\*k.
Life at Head-quarters.— The Parades on ths T'laee d'Armes. — Von Moltke in Versailles, — King Will-
iam's Daily Labors.— Bismarck's Habits. — The General —The Hotel dos Reservoirs. — A
Staff,
Journey around Besieged Paris. -The Story of Mont Valerien. — Muhoih Laffittc in War Time.
— Getting Under Fire. — The French ami German Pickets. — In the Foremost Investment Lines. —
Montmorency. — The Fight near Enghien. — Saint Gratieu. — Tin- Day Before Champigny.
riÎIE Germans act as though they had rior of Germany. The regiments pa-
-L come to stay here forever," said a raded were those freshly arrived in the
nervous French friend of mine, in a comic enmpaign. The inspection was merci-
mood, as we walked through the splendid less, fault-finding was frequent, punish-
courtyard of the great palace of Ver- ment severe. After the
parade came
sailles one morning late in November, concerts by the bands of the
splendid
when the contesting parties just outside crack regiments, and around these bands,
the historic town were in their sternest in the great avenues, gathered hundreds
mood, and when the Germans were of elegantly uniformed officers, soldiers
bringing up their "final arguments,'' — of all arms of the service but rarely ;
hundreds of cannon, which had been did a French gentleman or lady pause to
packed in neighboring villages, waiting listen to the music or to gaze upon the
what the Chancellor, with his brutal satire, enemy.

called " the psychological moment." By the time the concerts were over,
Indeed, the royal head-quarters was dusk had drawn its curtains round the
but little disturbed by the battles near by town, and all the shops closed the cafes ;
save on one or two occasions, when vic- remained open, lint hotels barred their
toriesseemed at last to alight upon (he doors at nine o'clock, when the patrols
French standards, at the time of the began to move through the streets. The
great sortie which culminated in the great cJi&teau, with its noble entrance-
sanguinary encounter
Champigny. at way guarded by the sculptured figures of
French Versailles had taken on the sul- the military heroes of France, was vis-
len aspect of a conquered place, where ited daily by hundreds of soldiers on
politeness was only accorded because it leave, and by the motley army fol-
was bred in the flesh, and commerce lowers, huge wagoners and serving-men,
fostered because the invader insisted all of them anxious to increase their
upon it. lint there was a German Ver- stock of knowledge of French history.
sailles, life in which went on regularly, Now and then the King drove to the
cheerfully, and in rather picturesque palace to see the wounded soldiers placed
fashion. in the airiest and tightest of the halls.
The first event of the day was invari- The superb park, with all its appurte-
ably a military parade upon the Place nances of Trianon, and foun-
chalet,
d'Armes, and this was conducted with tains, was deserted save at early morn-
as much care and precision as if it had ing, when troops of horsemen clattered
been in some garrison town in the inte- through the long alleys, or save when at
dawn .', silcut procession of soldiers, es- horse, with one groom behind him, rode
eorting one of their comrades sentenced through the town almost every morning,
to execution, went, out to a sinister hoi- as simply dressed as any "1' his officers,
low behind a hedge, where they pro- The distinctions between prince and
ceeded to take the life which the com- commander were so slight that a careless
rade had forfeited. observer would not have noticed them.
Yon Moltke sometimes promenaded in King William was rarely accompanied in
the park at seven in the morning, stern his public promenades, in carriages, or
and passionless, with his arms hanging on horseback, by any e save servants
motionless at his sides, and, although in at. n respectful distance. lie had an
primly arranged uniform, and with his immense round of daily labor, difficult
sword clattering at his side, he looked to support, considering his advanced
more like a schoolmaster or a country age. The royal courier left the Pre-
clergvman than like a great general, fecture of Versailles, where the King re-
The Versaillais soon learned his habits, sided, every day for Berlin, with special
and now and then, actuated by some despatches, letters, etc.. and the royal
unaccountable impulse, — perhaps admi- mail left Lagny every morning at five
ration for his very sternness and modesty, o'clock. The King may be said to have
— they saluted him as he passed ! lb' passed his time in writing and dictating
was never attended by an escort, of any letters for those mails, interspersing his
kind. When the bands were playing toil with brief outings in the town and
in the avenue of St. ('loud, he often an occasional dash over into the invest-
walked slowly through the throngs of ment lines to see how a battle was going,
officers, raising his hand to Ins cap The Crown Prince rested in a measure
abstractedly when he was saluted, from his labors at Versailles, although
There was nothing to be read in his scarcely a day passed that he was not
face. It testified neither to joy or fear, called upon to give judgment upon some
to anxiety or to deep thought. He important, crisis in the campaign; but
never seemed to sec anyone: his gaze even he was subject to the orders of
was introspective, and his walk plan- Yon Moltke.
tigrade, like that of one ascending a Count Von Bismarck kept himself
steep hill. very close for a long time after his ar-
The plainness with which most of the rival at Versailles, and numerous tales
Prussian royal personages dressed during were told of his eccentric habits, how
the campaign divested them of the ! nil- he did but little work by day, but, lying
liant halo usually surrounding persons in his bed at night, surrounded with
of rank. The King appeared quite as candles stuck of empty
in the necks
simple as one of the Soldiers of his champagne bottles, wrote, dictated, anil
household, if he happened to be placed planned, smoking furiously, and drinking
beside Red and black were the
him. extraordinary mixtures of champagne
predominating colors. There were few and beer. " When he has finished a
regiments in which a dozen different bottle of champagne," said one inform-
hues were so mingled as to produce aid., who communicated the statement
the- dazzling sheen which makes some to me as if it were of the greatest im-
armies so attractive. portance, " he lights a fresh candle, and
The Crown Prince, mounted on a line sticks it, in the bottle; and so when
morning comes ho is surrounded with Comparatively few of wounded the

lights,as if he were illuminating in his were sent into Versailles after became it
own honor." the royal head-quarters. Ambulances

When Bismarck appeared in public and ambulance men were almost num-
more frequently in December, it was berless. Ladies and gentlemen of all
observed tlmt he had grown old with nations and professions had devoted
startling rapidity. He looked ten years themselves to the charitable work of
older than when he had left Berlin a few caring for the wounded and those sol-
;
months before. The head-quarters of the diers who were fortunate enough to be
general staff was in the Rue Neuve. It
was a tranquil, mysterious-looking house,

where even the sentinels seemed to walk
with muffled tread, and where no noise
was ever heard. There were elaborated
all the great projects of the siege ; there
the whole network surrounding Paris
was daily studied with grave caution ;
there Oberst-Lieut. Von Verdy re-

ceived the journalists, and dulled their
eagerness for news with non-committal
replies ; there Von Podbielski elaborated
the despatches in which he had little to
announce but continuous victory.

The old and far-famed Hotel des Res-
ervoirs, the Cafe de Neptune, and the
cttj'rx in the neighborhood of the Place
Hoche were favorite resorts for princes
and grandees, who came and went, and
was the centre for newsgatherers, diplo-
matic agents, etc. At the Reservoirs,
towards noon, there was generally a
brilliantassemblage. Dukes, priuces,
and princelings without number came to VON MOLTKE.
breakfastin the noted restaurant. Smart
carriages rattled along the stone-paved sent to the Palace for treatment had but
way leading into the courtyard. A row one thing to complain of — the multi-
of bareheaded, primly dressed serving- plicity of the shown them.
attentions
men stood ready to receive their particu- The Hotel des Reservoirs was a sanitary
lar " Excellencies," and couriers ready station. American, English, and Bel-
to vault into the saddle waited important gian physicians did good service in and
orders which were given over breakfast around Versailles from the beginning to
plates. In the cafis there were always the end of the siege.
dozens of on leave who had come
oflieers To the right and left of the Place
to see the palace, the park, and to drink d'Armes, adjoining the ch&teau, are the
'unlimited coffee and cognac to the as- great cavalry quarters, immense barracks,
tonishment of the sober Frenchmen. built in a semi-circle ; ami these afforded
332 FCnOPK IN STORM AND CALM.
good accommodation to the invaders. In had now been found out, and tho go-be-
front of these, of a fine afternoon, five tweens were shortly to be executed.
or six hundred spirited horses might From Saint Germain, the fine Landwehrs-
be seen out for exercise the officers' ser- men of the Royal Guard had just de-
vants, generally quite as good cavaliers parted, leaving behind them praises, even
as their masters, putting the splendid in the months of their enemies, for their
beasts through all manner of equine excellent conduct. At the limits of Saint
gymnastics. Every morning the avenues Germain we found the Fourth army
were blocked for an hour by the long corps, commanded by General Von Al-
provision trains arriving from the rear, veusleben, who had his head-quarters es-
The teamsters of these trains provoked tablished at Soissy.
much laughter even among the saddened On the way over the hill, leading into
citizens of Versailles. They were ragged Saint Germain, one of ray companions
and saucy, and seemed to have been told me, in sprightly fashion, the story of
chosen from the oddest, of odd German Mont Valerien. •• In the fifteenth cen-
types. tin -y," said he, " when the Prussians
We made frequent journeys around were still savages on the Brandenburg
Paris during the siege; but some ae- sands, the height on which Valerien
count of that one which I first made, after stands was the Mecca for thousands of
the investment was declared complete, pious pilgrims. The hill was called Cal-
will serve to give a few pictures of the vary, and on it were erected three crosses,
besiegers. I left Versailles with two whose gloomy outlines recalled the pain-
companions one morning for Montmo- ful death of our Saviour and his compan-
rency, which lay directly in the foremost ions. The superstitious peasantry of the
line of investment, and in an advanta- neighborhood firmly believed that if they
geous position for an outlook on Paris, did not make their early pilgrimage to this
The weather was beautifully clear, al- Valerien Calvary they would be cursed
though we were at the end of November, with ill-luck. In the seventeenth ceu-
and with glasses avc could discern the tury the church of Sainte-Croix was
French at work on Mont Valerien, and built on the hill-top. to commemorate the
saw thei icasionally firing a heavy gun pilgrimages of previous times, inula con-
in the direction of St. Cloud. Between vent was soon added. Of this convent
Versailles and Saint Germain we found Richelieu became the director; but in
the Westphalian corps .stationed, and the seventeenth century, the priests sold
were struck with the wonderful solidity the property to the Jacobins, and the
and strength of the men. At that point controlling bishops of Notre Dame re-
even, and at that period of the siege, the fused to ratify the bargain. Out of
French would have found it impossible this dispute grew a veritable battle, in
to break through. which all the peasants of the vicinity
After a hasty breakfast, we took the joined. The convent was stormed, and
road through the forest towards Maisons the Jacobins remained masters. The
Laffltte. There we were told that the property was finally restored to its orig-
French had
succeeded in establishing inal owners by parliamentary decree,
daily communication between Paris and Jean-Jacques Rousseau hived to wander
Saint Germain, and had had a mail ser- on the hill for hours together, and once
vice in operation for some weeks; but it said to a friend who was with him when
El ROPE IX STURM AND CALM. XV.)
he came suddenly upon a chapel in which At Maisons Latlitte we found few sol-
some peasants were praying: 'Now I diers, and the peasants were very aggres-
understand for the first time what the sive, and treated us with open hostility
Gospel says. — " Where two or three and suspicion. We were obliged to
are gathered together in my name, there press one of them into our service and
am I in the midst of them.'" The eon- force him to show us the chdteau which
vent buildings existed long after the Mansard built for Louis XII. down by
order for their suppression had been the river banks. The grounds were line,
passed by the National Assembly. Na- their natural beauties not having been
poleon I. imagined that a nest of con- defaced by the insipid style of gardening
spirators was concealed there, and for which Le Notre was notorious, and
demolished the convent to substitute the broad walks, bordered by pedestals on
barracks, nearly completed when 1814 which stood busts of the Roman Em-
arrived, and the building site fell again perors, were quite imposing. We entered
into the hands of the Catholics. Under the great hall, where nude Grecian figures
the Restoration the three crosses were gleamed above us. The ch&teau had for
raised anew by the church, and the con- a long time been occupied by the be-
vents were rebuilt. But in 1830 the siegers, and, although few attempts at
Jesuits were expelled, and the holy edi- wanton destruction iiad been made, there
fices fell into decay. Soon after the for- were visible marks of occupation. The
midable great walls of the present fortress owner of" the ch&teau at that time was
arose, commanding the valleys and the tin' president of a great insurance com-
routes in the vicinity. Immense liar- pany of Paris, and his private papers
racks and bomb proofs were con- had been scattered hither and yon. The
structed, and in ordinary times a garri- pianos were opened, the beds were left
son of two thousand men would make richly dressed. In the gorgeously deco-
but little show in the immense place. rated bed-chamber, and the dainty bou-
The French," concluded my fellow- doir, bidden in drifting clouds of rich
traveller, '• maintain that the reduction lace, a. dozen had their quarters,
officers
of Valerien by bombardment is impossi- and champagne bottles and cigar stumps
ble." As hi' finished this sentence, the strewed the waxed floors. In the picture
old fort growled, and the white puff of gallery, where the paintings were undis-
smoke showed us that the gunners, see- turbed, mattresses left lying about showed
ing us pass, had felt it their duty to that forty soldiers had slept. The fire-
salute us with the customary useless places were filled with broken meats and
shell. bottles. A huge avenue led down to the
From Maisons Latlitte we went, on to river bank, where formerly there was a
Argenteuil. The forest beyond Saint fine bridge over the Seine. This had
Germain was beautiful in its garb of been blown up early in December. Here
freshly fallen and crystallized snow, and we were obliged to cross in range of
the long alleys looked like marble sculpt- Mont Valerien but the gunners did not
;
ured aisles in some vast cathedral. An deign to notice us this time. On the
hour's ride brought us to several little other bank, at the village called Sartrou-
towns attached to each other by a slender ville, we found soldier; from the fourth
thread of houses, and we were soon in corps pushing forward to Argenteuil,
Maisons Latlitte, and on the Seine bank. the nearest point to Paris within the lines.
At Sartrouville we hoard the sharp Prussians, — not to talk to Frenchmen

crack of the cliassepots, the French out- within German lines and tell them
the
posts keeping up an incessant fire upon what we knew. The lower road from
the Prussians passing unconcernedly to Sartrouville to Argenteuil was con-
and fro within own lines. An hour
their stantly swept by a small lire from the
before our arrival. Mont Yalerien had French lines. We went down to it, hut
been attempting to dislodge some troops came back convinced that it was not the
not far from us. These troops were proper place for an excursion.
nearly all young men, few older than At Argenteuil was a hill commanding
twenty-live, sturdy, hale, honest-looking a fine view of Paris, and. in the fading
gaillards. We watched them assisting glow of the sunset, we looked down upon
each other in preparations for their the misty outlines of the great capital,
march, rolling their overcoats, capping which, at this distance, seemed as calm
their pistols, etc. At last, when every- as a cemetery. Here the Germans had
thine was ready, they fell into line with- an observatory, from which, if inclined,
out a word. All, as one man, put their they could look over Montmartre, and
feet forward -n route for Argenteuil. could plainly distinguish all the opera-
This was done so promptly, and with a. tions on the walls of Mont. Yalerien.
movement so regular, that one might At the end of the long principal street
have imagined every man a part of a of the town we saw a Frenchman curs-
machine. In Sartrouville many of the ing two Prussians who had offered to
houses were completely burned, and the buy provisions from him. lie refused to
country was more desolate than any we give them anything, and emptied his
had seen before. Most of the inhabi- vocabulary of invectives, finishing his
tants had gone away, having probably remarks with a hearty burst of laughter,
retired into Parisat the opening of the as if he were delighted with the dilemma
siege; but few old men were prowling

a in which the enemy found itself. Large
about, beseeching the Prussians and masses of troops were drilling on a plain
French alike for alms. beyond Argenteuil, and here, although
We left Sartrouville late in the after- we were close to Paris and the forts, the
noon, and neared Argenteuil just as the Germans seemed as tranquil ami as pos-
evening sunset, was reddening (lie sky. sesscd as if they had been at home.
As we came up the we
hill by which The next village was Sanuois and ;
were to descend into Argenteuil we saw here we crossed the railway and bent
the quick, white puffs of smoke, which away in the direction of St. Denis and
denoted a battle, and could hear the the other forts on the east, towards St.
steady roll of firing ahead of us. Where Gratien and Epinai, where sortie had a
the Seine wound away we saw the lately Here we found the
occurred.
pickets at work, ami were cautioned by Prussians very numerous, and on the
a passing soldier not. to venture near the alert. Sentinels halted us at every turn
river, "as French bullets," he said, in the road, and examined our papers
" easily reached much farther than that." cautiously. Now and then we had to
Argenteuil was deserted save by a submit to cross-questioning by some
few blue-bloused peasants, who begged lawyer or ••Heir Doctor" with a gun
for news with such energy that we for- on his shoulder, if he presumed to doubt
got the rules imposed upon us by the that we had really come from Versailles.
We passed the night in the foremost forest, and lake. At the foot of one of
investment and not far from the
lines, these hills lies Enghien, long famous for
forts of St. Denis, La Double Couronne its sulphur baths; and a little farther on
du Nord, La Breche, and the Fort de is the forest in which so much fighting oc-
l'Est. After we had escaped through a curred during the siege. Aside from its
wassailing party of soldiers, who had in- feudal history Montmorency acquired
sisted upon quarrelling with us because peculiar interest in later days by the
we had avowed that we were not Prus- choice of it as a resilience by many dis-
sians, we went to the commandant of the tinguished people, and as a pleasure

place, who received us with courtesy, and haunt by the Parisians. Jean-Jacques
who sent a soldier to find us quarters for Rousseau had his hermitage there. The
the night. This commandant belonged old building is still shown, and the chest-
to an Anhaltischer regiment, the Ninety- nut trees under which the old philosopher
third Anhalt-Dessa.u. and was a fine used to muse are still pointed out with
specimen of the German military man. reverence. Rachel once had a villa at
He told us that duty there was especially Montmorency, and in the so-called new
arduous, and the men had suffered much. hermitage both Gretry, the composer,
The forts never allowed a night to pass and the Duchessede Berrihave had their
without throwing at least an hundred homes. American and French painters
shells into the lines, on the theory, he have made Montmorency and Enghien
supposed, that it prevented sleep. It and Ecouen their favorite sketching
was rather startling at first to hear the grounds for months together. Where
shells come crashing into the streets. we found the stalwart men of the Fourth
At Montmorency were stationed the Prussian corps grimly grasping their
Sixth and Seventh divisions of the ritles at their outposts, many a painter
Fourth army corps, the former under had spent studious days in tin 1 wood.
General Sehwartzhof and the latter under After inspecting our rather gloomy
General Zelinckski. " The Fourth Pio- quarters, a deserted villa, in which I in-
neers were not far away, in front, near curred the displeasure of two soldiers
Epinai," said the commandant, "andthey because I interfered to prevent them
have had a tremendous raking from the from cutting joints of raw meat upon a
very first moment of their occupation." costly piano, we were invited to supper
They were destined to a trial even more with a young lieutenant of thecommand-
severe than any that had yet been suf- ant's regiment, a baron, who insisted
fered,on the next night after our arrival, upon regaling us with music as well as
and we had an opportunity of witnessing with wine and with " Erbswurst." This
many of its phases, during the opera- colossus —
he must have been six feet
tions which French had begun
the three, and of phenomenal measure across
towards Gennevilliers and Argcnteuil as the chest —
sat drinking red wine all the
a diversion at the time of General evening and listening to the music of
Ducrot's great sortie, which culminated Beethoven and Wagner, which one of
in the disaster at Champigny. his corporals played on the piano. Now
Montmorency is one of the loveliest and then the forts added their deep hass
suburban towns near Paris. From its we paid little attention
to the music, but
high hills, crowned with historic villus, it to them. Th" baron had already had
dominates a noble sweep of valley, numerous shells in his quarter.;, and
showed us pieces of one which had ex- and the incessant cracking of musketry
ploded in his kitchen on the previous in the French lines, about five thousand
day. ''The men," lie said, "consider yards away, and the furious cannon-
outpost duty here as equal to going into ading, convinced us that the tight
a skirmish, and they look forward to it was drawing near. From that mo-
with many forebodings. This picket ment until late at night Enghien and
duty is imposed upon them for four days. its neighborhood were as thoroughly
Those who are in the picket-line at night scourged by shells as was the battle-
do no duty on the following day." The field of Sedan on the day of the
lines were something less than three memorable disaster to the French.
thousand feet apart, yet very few out- The forward movement in the Freueh
posts were killed lint alarms were
;
- i sortie did not begin until the next day;
tinual. lint great mortar batteries, established
We slept that night on some rather at Argenleiiil and BezoilS, were making
unsavory straw what hail been the
in desperate efforts to dislodge the Ger-
salon of our villa, and the screaming of mans from the positions which we were
the shells going over the house, and the now visiting. A furious grenade fire
smoke and stench from the fire, built of was directed upon Enghien and Saint
fragments of green palings, in the long- Gratien. Next day the French forces
nnused fireplace, kept us wakeful. were pushed vigorously up and into
Next day. as the can lading was the edge of Epinai, their outposts re-
furious in the direction of Enghien and maining just within the limits of the
Epinai, we left our horses, and went town after the main body hail been
down Enghien and
to the road leading to driven back. All the troops from
the forest beyond. Altera walk of an Montmorency were in this tight, and
hour and a half through a charming spoke with the greatest respect of the
series of villa-bordered streets, we came fire from the forts. The commandant
to the entrance of the town, where we said that, at one time it was beyond
were arrested by an officer, who, how- description awful. Eight or ten shells
ever, soon became our guide, and told per minute were thrown with remark-
us that an important sortie was in prog- able precision into the lines of the Prus-
ress. sians. A brother officer of his was
Here tin' main railway line was barri- killed in a minute by a grenade, wl ich
caded heavily, and a stockade had been cut him almost in two. The losses of
built for some distance along the road. this division were about eighteen offi-
Barricades were numerous, and it was cers and three hundred men. The
evident that the French would have commandant said he saw steel mitrail-
to make a desperate light to break leuse batteries, mounted on railway
through here. The officers showed us carriages, iron-clad. These we thought
the famous Chinese villa of De Ville- a myth, and laughed at the story; but
messant, the editor of the sprightly Talis his statement was subsequently proved
Figaro, and i>n the opposite side of the to be true, and the English have since
lake, which is one of Enghien's attrac- used these railway batteries to great
tions, the country-house of the famous advantage in Egypt. This command-
editor of the Liberty, Emile de Girardin. ant, and all the Prussian officers whom
Bui he was soon obliged to leave us, we met during the next two days,
spoke with the highest praise of the Paris The decora-

became fatiguing.
fighting qualities of the French. After tions by Giraud composed of
were
the struggle at Epinai, among the subjects rather broader in tone and
dead were found many who had thrown treatment than would have been ad-
away their rations, their caps, every- mitted in a respectable English 01
thing save their guns, in their desire to American family.

fight without hindrance. The French From the chdteau we went on to Saint
troops, said the Germans, all had three Gratien, a little town of a few hundred
days' rations of white bread and cutlets inhabitants, celebrated as the burial
of horse-flesh. This is all they had to place of a marquis who was a valiant
eat. They were well equipped. Most soldier under the First Empire, and had
of those who were found dead were attained the grade of Marshal, when, for
Mobiles. Many prisoners were taken, some fault, he was reduced to the ranks,
and among them sonic few Zouaves. and retired to the forest at this unfor-
All along the forest country near Eng- tunate close of his military career to
hien. for the next day and a half, it muse and mourn until death relieved
seemed as if the mouth of hell had him of his troubles.
been opened grenades rained every-
; We returned to Enghien by another
where hundreds were sunk in the lake,
; road through the, forest, and found the
and did no good nor harm. pioneers busy in felling the beautiful
Next morning, despite the cautions trees and laying them across each other
of the Germans against the Fraucs-Tir- in the most scientific manner. To for-
eurs, who, they said, were occasionally tify the positions in that neighborhood,
to bemet with in the forest, we went thousands upon thousands of noble
down from Montmorency through the trees were sacrificed. Wagon trains
wood and on to Saint Gratien, to visit loaded with materials for fortifying the
the villa of the Princess Mathilde, a outside were creaking along
positions
member of the late Imperial family. and the wagoners
the frosty highways,
We were somewhat amused at the were gayly mocking at the thunderous
naiveti of the German sentinels, who refrain kept up by the four northern
insisted upon supposing us to be brother forts. The great, watch-dogs in
Frenchmen and questioned the authen- front of the walls of Paris were barking
ticity of our military passes. We found with all their might and main to encour-
the villa, a kind of bastard chdteau, age the poorly equipped and almost un-
had been used during the preceding tried troops, which were at that moment
day as a hospital and on entering, we; beginning to grapple at Champigny with
found the bed-chamber of the Priucess their heretofore triumphant and well-
stained with Prussian blood. Wounded trained enemies. From Montmorency
men were lying groaning upon the most we pushed on through St. Brice, Villiers-
elegant aud costly couches. The pict- le-Bel, and Sarcelles to Gonesse, the
ures, the aud furniture re-
library, head-quarters of Prince August of Wur-
flected the somewhat voluptuous tastes temburg, against whose rather thin
of the Princess, who had occupied the General Ducrot had thrown enor-
lines
nook as a retreat when the gayeties of mous masses of men.
; .
CII A PTEK TI 1 1 RTY-SIX
The Period of Despair. — The Final Effort. — The Greal Sortie. — Champijny. — The Fight at Villiers.—
Ducrot and Ili^ Disaster. — Valorous Conduct of the French. — The News of the Defeat of the Loire
Army.
THE great which

now undertaken, and
sortie the Parisians
of which
to
during
be thrown across the River Marne
had the night of the 28th— 29th of
we had seen the unsuccessful beginning, November had done his work with the
was begun with the hope that Gambetta care and skill which the engineers of the
had at last organized victory in the enemy's forces always showed on such
south, and that his conquering forces, important occasions, he would have con-
arriving from the district of the Loire, tributed no little to the raising of the
would be able to effect a junction with siege of Paris, and perhaps might have
the forces under the walls of Paris, and flattered himself that lie was a powerful,
sweep away the invader into hopeless although humble, instrument in the lib-
retreat and disastrous confusion. It is eration of the great capital,

said upon good authority that General But the bridges were not ready.
Trochu, despite his position as com- The Prussians, as we had observed
mander in Paris, made no secret of his from the beginning of the campaign,
belief that 1 lie resistance was hopeless and, in fact, all the German armies,
and it is also said of him that at a carried with them, and took the utmost
certain council, wdien he was asked if he, pains to keep in excellent order, pon-
did not believe in resistance, "With all toon trains for all emergencies. The
the troops in Paris we can effect noth- presence of these pontoon traius at
inn." lie said, "except to make dust for the rear of the advancing columns
future generations to walk on." Gen- was the means of saving many a
eral Trochu was much reproached for noble bridge and viaduct in France,
many years after the war for this policy for the French, who are a very logical
of despair ; but I believe he has never people, were at once convinced that
undertaken to deny or defend it. it was useless to destroy tinemasonry
lie was not anxious, however, nor had over streams which the enemv could
he the power, to prevent the organization bridge for itself ten minutes after
of the great effort of the last few days the arches and piers were sprung,
of November. It is at once curious and Genius has been not inaptly described
sad to note that this French sortie, as as an infinite capacity for taking pains,
all the battles in the campaign, had and the supply of this capacity in the
failed for lack of proper preparation of German army was quite wonderful,
material resources absolutely necessary The French could improvise a defense
to the carrying out of a military plan, out of the incessant laborof a few days;
If the engineer who was charged with in desperate valor and in self-sacrilice
the preparation of the pontoon bridges they were the peers of their enemy ; but,
340 El'ROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
when it came to cool foresight and engineers who had not got the bridges
abundant calculation, they were infinitely ready.) "General Vinoy, who was to
inferior. advance upon Choisy, was not warned
The Manic was not bridged at the in time. He executed his movement,
proper time by the French pontoons, and when lie found that the governor
mid tlie stupendous operations which had adjourned his, lie was forced to
General Vinoy and General Ducrot were retreat alter suffering heavy losses.
to have carried into effect were checked, This event caused an emotion which
and finally ruined. The only advantage you will easily understand ; but it must
which the French derived from the sortie not be exaggerated. The governor has
was the infliction of tremendous losses taken possession of the plateau of Ayron,
upon ilie enemy, and of the addition of where he has strongly fortified himself,
a brilliant page to French military his- ami where he intends to continue his
tory. operations. The danger is that we may
M. Favre, lonely in his cabinet, after meet there a warned and concentrated
the exhausting labors of the day, wrote enemy. You may imagine our anxiety.
nightly Gambetta letters full of
to If we fail, we are doubly lost; but this
energy, courage, and hope. On the is not the time to be discouraged."
29th of November he wrote the brilliant General Ducrot had marshalled forth
young delegate, who was building up his soldiers of the " second army of
the defense in the South, a brief Hole, Paris." as he called them, with a fiery
which gives a clear notion of the objects proclamation. In this document he told
of the creat sortie. " As the govern- the troops that the action had been pre-
ment had informed you." wrote M. pared for months ; that the commander-
Favre, "it had fixed upon Tuesday, the in-chief had got together more than four
29th, for tlie sortie, on the general plan hundred cannon, two-thirds of which were
which it had already given you some of heavy calibre that one hundred and
;
idea of. This plan was audacious, care- eighty thousand men, well-armed and
fully prepared, and its main aim was to equipped, ought logo anywhere that the ;
pierce tlie German lines with an army enemy was descending to the banks of
of one hundred thousand men, and to the Loire with his best soldiers, where
join forces with you on or near the Loire. they were all to be beaten by the newly
Tiie governor (General Trochu) began organized French armies; that courage
his movements on Sunday. The princi- and confidence would win the day and ;
pal task was confided

General Ducrot. to that, as for himself, he was firmly re-
His operations were to be masked by solved, and took an oath before the
attacks from different sides, deceiving army and the nation to return into
the enemy, and giving it no rest. The Paris •• dead or victorious."
governor went out yesterday to one of These were brave words, which put a
the principal points to observe the pas- certain fever into the blood of the soldiers,
sage of his army over the Maine, on who felt that the fate of the country de-
seven bridges ; unfortunately, at mid- pended upon the success of their efforts.
night, a sudden rise in the Marne ren- Poor General Ducrot, after the failure of
dered this passage impossible." (This his operations, was roundly abused and
was the story which was invented to much ridiculed because he had not kept
excuse the delay and the blunder of tiie his word ; but, if he did not succeed in
EUROPE LV STORM AXD CALM. 341
gaining a permanent victory, ho did came forward with loud

their favor, they
everything that he could to win a shouts and flourished their guns over
soldier's death, before returning to their heads like madmen. Doubtless
Paris. Dozens of soldiers testify to the}* were a little ashamed of having
his bravery in and on the field

battle, broken ranks shortly before, and had
of Champigny he pushed into the very determined to make up for it, now that
ranks of the enemy, and broke his sword they felt safe. In front of them there
in a Saxon's breast. But his life was had come up undisciplined French
charmed. He could not die, and he was troops, who fell back in considerable
obliged to swallow his fine words, and to disorder upon Creteil. But one of their
live for many years afterwards a soured generals was brave even to utter rash-
and disappointed, but unquestionably an ness, and was shot down within thirty
honorable and capable soldier. yards from the Prussian lines, still crying
The failure of the French to cross the out, " Forward! " This energetic officer,
Marne in the night of the 28th gave who had won a high reputation in the
the Germans twenty-four hours in which African and Italian campaigns, was the
to concentrate fresh troops upon the talk of all the German soldiers for the
weak portions of their lines, and, by next few days. When the first charge
sunset on the 29th, all hope of breaking on Montmedy occurred, he went into it
through the point towards which the nourishing his cap on the end of his
French were directing their endeavors sabre and his men would have followed
;
was gone. On the 30th of November, him to destruction. lie went through
early in the morning, the two first French the first charge, although a pistol ball
divisions crossed the river, and pushed had broken one of his wrists. He was
the enemy back to the first slopes of the man who, when he was slowly dying,
Champigny. A series of battles and ar- a day or two after the battle, from the
tillery duels took place along the plateau numerous wounds which he had received,
of Avron, on the heights of Montmedy, said to the soldiers who surrounded his
Creteil, Joinville-le-Pont, Champigny, bed, " If we still have an army that
Noisy-le-Grand, and Villiers-sur-Marue. knows how to die, France may be saved."
The Wurtemburg troops, when they On this same day of the 30th there
were first struck by the vigorous French was a tremendous battle in and around
attack, were sadly demoralized. I had the villages of Bry-sur-Marne and Cham-
ocular evidence of and had they
that, pigny. In Bry-sur-Marne the battle was
been unaided they would have opened from house to house, from alley-way to
their ranks and let the besieged through, alley-way; and here the French Zouaves,
on their way to the junction with Gam- who had won such a bad reputation at
betta's forces. But, as soon as they the outset of the siege, in flying from the
began to fall back, they found that they table-land of Chatillon, fought with ad-
were supported by the Saxons, and by mirable courage, and redeemed their
regiment after regiment of Prussians, honor.
coming up in solid order. All the time that this hand-to-hand
So they rallied, and pushed away the lighting in the villages was going on
French, who had already taken posses- there was a perfectly terrific artillery
sion of the summit of Montmedy. As duel between batteries of the contending
soon as they saw the action turning in forces. Having repossessed themselves
—
342 EUROPE IX STon.ir AND CALM.
of Montmedy, the Germans had suc- It is not too much to cay, that, on
ceeded in shutting the door which had thai night, the forces on both sides
been momentarily opened on the road to ceased their efforts from utter exhaus-
Versailles; and they bolted and haired tion. Every nerve in both armies had
it sii effectually :is to have no fears that been strained to the utmost for more
it would he opened again. than thirty-six hours. There were Ger-

Meantime the French were creeping man troops in the light who had not hail
up the heights of Villiers and Chenne- a moment's rest for all that time. A
vieres, disputing fool by loot the blood- philosophical Wiirteiiibiirger, who was in
stained way, hiding among the vines and the whole Villiers fight, — a kind of ram-
stopping, now and then, — poor, half- bling encounter, which lasted for four or
starved fellows! — to pluck the frozen live days, — in writing from Villiers to
grapes which hung convenient to their some tin/ 5th of December,
friends on
grasp. was slow work coming up
It and describing the task of retaking Mont-
these hills; and it was half-past four in nieslv. while the German troops were
the afternoon before the French bat- subjected to a crushing lire from the
talions got to the walls of the park at torts, said, •• You can have no idea of
Villiers, where the Prussians had made the frightful rain of shells which we en-
their retreat. countered here. It is a veritable miracle
When once the French troops were that ourwhole battery was not destroyed
well upon the hill, a long and terrible simply by the immense numerical supe-
line of musketry sent forth such a sweep- riority of the French batteries. We tired
ing fire of death that, hundreds upon upon them with precision and coolness,
hundreds of men fell before they could lint in less than half an hour we had lost
reach a cover; and the scene, for a few eight men and fifteen horses. My horse
minutes after this army of on-rushing was struck down by a shell live seconds
French, mad for victory and wild for after I dismounted from it. Mitrail-
revenge, was transformed in the twink- leuses were placed at a short distance
lingof an eye into groaning and writhing from us, and their bullets went hissing
masses Of wounded men, heaped upon above our heads like a swarm of bees.
their dead comrades, was one of the We had to hand together, and get into
most frightful and startling of the whole position a hundred paces farther away
century. When the sun went down behind the wall of a park, which we soon
that night, the sky was red as bl 1, had in a state of defense."
as if the dread colors of the battle-field This little paragraph gives au ade-
were reflected in it. Then silence fell quate idea ofthe manner in which the
upon the whole country side. The Germans alwa\s availed themselves of
groaning of the cannon, the harsh shelter. In many an action German
.shrieks of the mit ruilleuses, ihe hurrahs troops were scarcely seen at all by the
of the Wuiteinl lingers and their sturdy enemy. If there was a wall convenient,
allies, who had come up just in time to they had loop-holed it; a forest, they
save t lioin. the cries of the wounded, were hidden within it ; a barricade was
all died away, as if the shades of the a God-send to them; a cemetery, a ditch,
winter twilight, rapidly falling over the — anything which they could transform
scene of carnage, had blotted it out, into a temporary fortification, — was in-
and swept it into eternal oblivion. stantly ami invariably adopted. " I
<
F
thank God," said this Gorman soldier, ribly,and hundreds of them were unlit
" thai I am still alive. I shall never for next day. Trees were cut
battle
forget that day. Some of the Prussian down and great fires were built, both
officers said tliatit was a much worse affair because General Trochu wished to make
than that of Gravelotte. The soil was the enemy think that an immense army
fairly turned up by the French shells. was encamped near him, and because the
For the first time I understand what it men were literally freezing. The hor-
means to l>e outside of cover under an rors of that night for the wouuded men
artillery lire. On we could not
the 30th surpass all the powers of description.
occupy the villages of Champigny and Next day there was no fighting, but
Bry-sur-Marne, for when the foils began early on the morning of the 2d of De-
THE PRIESTS' AMBULANCE CORrS AT THE BATTLE OF CHAMPIGNY.
to concentrate their lire upon them they cember the Saxons and Wurtemburg-
were too hot to stay in ; allthe more be- ers toeether upon the towns of 15ry-
fell
sur-Marne and Champigny and this

cause we were attacked by forces quad- ;
ruple our own in numbers." was a part of the deliberate attempt of

When the French got into Champigny theGermans to throw General Ducrot's
the\ found it in a frightful condition. army back upon the right bank of the
The Saxons, who had been occupying it Marne anil to push it into the river, or
some annoyed at
time, were greatly compel it to complete disorganization
for
and confused which would render
retreat,
being disturbed, and they smashed every-
thing: mirrors, costly furniture, — re- any future operations on its part impos-
specting nothing whatever. Nextmorn- sible.
The French troops mag-
at first fought
ing, the weather, which bad been mild,
numbers of
against the vast
suddenly became very cold. The half-fed nificently
and excited French troops suffered ter- the enemy, which now flocked down upon
them. Fresh reinforcements were sent and his aids. The Government of
up, and the contest promised to be long, National Defense papered the walls
and possibly to be decided in favor of with encouraging proclamations. On
the Parisians. When the new German the next day came a sad surprise, anil
column came out of the woods of Villiers one which at first stupefied and finally
and began to push the French troops exasperated the Parisians. On the 4th
back upon Bry-sur-Marne, and towards of December General Ducrot announced
the River Maine, the French lines wav- to the besieged within the walls of the
ered. General Ducrot and General Tro- capital, by means of a proclamation
chu made desperate efforts to rally them. issued to his own troops, that he had
The great military park on the
plateau of Avron sent forth a
formidable fire to cut gaps in
the German lines and at last

;
one hundred thousand men,

who had swarmed for an hour
or two on the hillsides, — Prus-
sians, Bavarians, Saxons, and
Wurtemburgers, —
hesitated,
and finally were forced to halt
and to withdraw a little.
At four o'clock in the after-
noon the}' were found throwing
up intrenchments, as if fearing
that they who had been at-
tacked might suddenly be the
attacking party. The French
had managed to get about half EPISODE
of Ghampigny they had retaken
;
PARIS.-
house after house, and barricade

after barricade; but the German prison- brought his army
ers them that there were at least
told back across the
one hundred and fifty thousand Prus- Maine, because
sians massed not far away and, after ; he was convinced
the numerous arrivals of fresh troops that new efforts
that they had seen, they began to believe in a direction
this statement. General Trochu, how- where the enemy had had plenty of
ever, claimed the day as a victory for time to concentrate all its forces, and
the French armies; and General Ducrot. to prepare all its means of action,
who had been wounded on this day by a would be useless. "Had I persisted
splinter of a shell, after having ridden in this line of attack," lie said, " I
right through the German lines two or should uselessly have sacrificed many
three times, still expressed hopes that thousands of brave men, and. instead
the operations would be successful. of serving the cause of deliverance, I
Paris was electrified by the despatches should seriously have compromised it."
which came to it from General Trochu Perhaps it required more moral bravery
3415 EUROPE IX STORM AXD CALM.
on the part of General Ducrot to do just But on the evening of the fith of Decem-
what he did than to have plunged anew ber the Parisians learned by a procla-
into a battle which could have had but mation that letters hail been exchanged
one end. — tlic partial or complete anni- between General Von Moltke and
hilation of his army on the banks of the General Trochn. The German general
Manic informed General Trochu, in a note of
The whole country for miles around ami Spartan brevity, that
icy politeness
was filled with the marks of the san- thearmy of the Loire had been defeated
guinary struggle; the villages were in on the previous day near Orleans and
ruins ; the hills were piled with heaps of that thecity had been occupied by the
mangled corpses. )n the French side ( victorious troops.
the priests and the volunteer ambulance The loss French during this
of the
men were busy in bearing away to Paris series of was six thousand and
battles
those of the soldiers who were not thirty men, of which four hundred and
mortally wounded, and preparing decent fourteen were officers. The Germans
places in the farm-houses and cottages lost much more heavily, and for some
Cor those whose sands of life were fast time after the siege the French insisted
running out. On the frozen earth alone; that the affair of Champigny and Villiers
the heights beyond Champigny and had cost Germany fifteen thousand sol-
Yilliers, the German dead were still diers ; but this estimate was greatly
tying in piles and rows on the .'id and exaggerated.
Ith of December, although burial parties Some days after the arrival of General
worked vigorously during the nights, and Von Moltke's letter in Paris, the Govern-
alter the fight of the 30th they labored ment of National Defense learned that
during the whole of the 1st, determined the enemy hail spoken truly; yet the
to conceal as much as possible their army of the Loire was only cut in two.
losses from the enemy. As a French It was neither captured nor annihilated.
writer has tersely said, in his impartial Paris took heart a little. General
and careful account of this series of Chanzy was still capable of a good re-
lights, ten thousand dead men of the two sistance General Faidherbe was mak-
;
races were strewn along the frozen hills, ing a capital tight in the north and ;
and nothing had been done to change the General Bourbaki, at Bourges, was pre-
destiny of Paris. The blockade con- paring to assume the offensive with
tinued. General Ducrot had reentered vigor. General Trochu now shut him-
alive and victorious in vain. self up atVincennes. where lie said that
At first Paris could not believe that he was so busy with the reorganization
this was tin' end of its great hope. It of his army that he could give no atten-
did not doubt that military operations tion to the interior administration of
would be continued at another point. Paris. Starvation ami bitter winter
Very likely the attack at Champigny had weather had come at the close of an un-
been only a feint. We should soon hear successful sortie, to urge the Parisians
of lights elsewhere, and the besieged, not to yield.
doubting that the Loire army was near Yet they held out with a bravery
at hand, looked with confidence for the which has never been surpassed ill the
soldiers of ( General A u relies (le l'a lac lines. history of the world.
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. Ml
CHAPTER THIRTY-SEVEN.
Panoramic View of the German Investment Lines. —
Mavgency. -Gonesse. Chelles.— — — The Various Corps
and Their Appearance. —
Pictures from Versailles during the Occupation. — The Snow. — The
Landwehrsmen. — The Christinas Festivities.
CONTINUING our journey, we found had met in Versailles a young officer,
at Margency, which was simply a just about to leave one of the Uhlan
hamlet attached to a ch&teau, the head- regiments of the Guard because he was
Crown Prince of Saxony,
quarters of the not a baron and every other officer in
who had under his command the Fourth, the regiment was. There were some
Sixth, and Guard corps. Our intention regiments in which neatly every man hail
was to remain here for some days; but a title. To be introduced to an officer
the odious weather and the wretched ac- at Gonesse without hearing him signalled
commodation forbade it. So we pushed as " Herr Graf" would have at once at-
on to Gonesse, the head-quarters of tracted attention to him. Many of the
Prince August von Wurtemburg. Our officers stationed here were extremely
r< inte lay through Villiers-le-Bel, — a name young, but nearly all were men of high-
dear to American and English artists, — Ineeding and culture. Many a man in
and through Sarcelles. The Fourth coarse uniform possessed a larger in-
corps joined the Guard at Groslay, a come than the proprietor of the costly
village just outside the limits of Mont- which he was temporarily lodged.
villa in
morency, and extended to Clichy-sur- The officers had very generally estab-
Bois, not far from Chelles, and the scene lished in each of the little towns com-
of the important struggle just recounted modious restaurants called "Officers'
on the banks of the Marne and the Casinos," and had pressed into their
Seine. St. Brice, nearby, one of the oc- service some few unwilling French cooks
cupied points, was celebrated as one of who had remained in the neighborhood.
Bossuet's many residences. To the right One saw many an officer spending more
was Pierrefitte, still occupied by the for the bottle of wine which he drank for
French, and a two miles
little less than his breakfast than he received as pay for
and a half from the outer French line of soldiering for a week. Private pockets, as
defense. well as government's treasury, were well
The Guard, without doubt the noblest depleted. The French charged enormous
body of men in the German army, had prices. Everything was at least triple
already suffered terribly in the war; and or quadruple its former value. Potatoes
it was said at Gonesse, though I know- and vegetables of all kinds were most
not how had
truly, that this corps alone difficult to obtain. The officers con-
lost mote men in the struggles around tented themselves with black bread, anil
Metz than the whole war of 1866 hud made up for the absence of beer by
cost Prussia. It was a proud and fiery swallowing numerous bottles of the or-
corps, composed ill large degree of per- dinary wine of the country, when no
sons of rank. But a few days before I other was to be had.
At Gonesse we had a pretty severe important point what they called a

trial of our nerves, because we had Kriegsbrucke, that is, a pontoon bridge,
settled down to breakfast in a corner for war purposes, they had noted with
of town which had, unfortunately,
tin' the greatest care the various routes lead-
been selected that morning for prac- ing to it. especially for wagon trains and
tice liv the gunners in the neighbor- convoys.
ing French fort, and the shells fell with From Gonesse we pushed forward,
a recklessness which was quite appall- getting just within the first line of in-
ing. Fortunately a dense fog hindered vestment to Sevran, a little town badly
the gunners from doing much damage, punished byshells. On our way thither
in the neighborl d of Gonesse we en- we had an opportunity to observe the
countered, for the first time, a very grave manner in which the German outposts
difficulty, but one which we afterwards fortified their positions. Breastworks
met at every turn in making trips around were thrown up almost everywhere, con-
Paris. Whenever we asked a French- structed out of every available material.
man to show us the way. as we were Where roads failed in the fields, artifi-
naturally puzzled by the labyrinth of cial ones had been made out of the un-
large and small roads, he always mis- threshed wheat, of which great heaps
directed us. This, at first, we could garnished tin; roadsides. Even the roads
hardly believe, until we lost a couple of were doubly and triply barricaded at
hours by trusting to cur French guides. certain points, so that the French, in
Presently we noted that the Prussians making a sortie, would be sure to get
had the whole country classified into themselves under a deadly lire. " Alarm
various districts, traversed by certain houses" were frequent alone' this route.
routes ; ami these were plainly indicated Tin 1

Prussians hail created facilities for
by huge signs marked in ink, on the seeing almost every movement that any
stone fence " Colonenweg"
corners. considerable body of Frenchmen could
signified hat the road where the sign
I make near Paris, and could always pre-
appeared was the proper one for heavy pare themselves splendidly for defense.
munition and provision trains; and at Aunet. an insignificant village near
every town's entrance and exit one Sevran, was only noticeable from the
found the way to and from each town fad that numbers of the Guard corps
within a radius of twenty miles properly had illustrated their talent with numer-
shown on a little map. Other German ous drawings on the walls of the houses.
corps had not the same thoroughness The signs that had been placed to indi-
of system noticeable among the Prus- cate the way were sometimes rendered
sians. For instance, the Saxons, who very amusing by the little sketches
lay just beyond Gonesse, rarely marked which the several visitors to the indica-
the way so thai a stranger could find tear had drawn. At Sevran we passed
it. The French, at the beginning of the Canal de L'Ourcq, cleverly turned
the siege of Paris, had turned all the from its course by a (banian engineer at
sign-boards wrong end first, or, when the beginning of the investment, and
that had been impossible, hail taken the bridge over which we went had been
them down and pitched them into the barricaded, the side towards Paris being
nearest stream. Wherever the Prus- protected with doors taken from the
sians had thrown across the river at an granaries.
EUROrE IN STORM AXD CALM.
The scenery through which we now There was, however, a lack of that
passed was of dazzling loveliness. The thoroughness of occupation which we
snow still decked the trees with crystals, had remarked among the exclusively
and a temperate sun threw a genial, but Prussian troops and, on the whole, from
;
not melting, light upon this fairy splen- this point towhere the gallant Second
dor. Hills were indistinguishable, and corps began, we could remark at every
seemed to fade into the sky. A brush- turn the superiority of Prussia to the
heap became an opalescent mass, and the sister states in military training.
far-off forests, where symmetrical trees From Clichy we rode on to Mont Ver-
rose in long avenues, were fantastic as meil, and thence through the charming
dream-foliage. Here we were skirting forest of Chelles. The grand old abbey
the noble and ancient wood of Bondy, of Chelles has twice been ravaged by the
where old King Childerie met his unhappy English, — in 1358 and L429, — and once
fate, and were drawing gradually towards entirely overturned by a hurricane. But
the banks of the charming Marne. it has always been restored by pious
At Livry we took the wrong road, hands, and is one of the architectural
and had gone two miles straight towards wonders of France. Chelles is pictu-
one of the forts beforewe discovered resquely situated, and stately poplars
our mistake. Had it not been for a com- border the plains which stretch out from
pass I do not know what would have the town. Here we got into trouble with
happened, for we should probably have an officer, who hail cautioned us against
got into the French lines. At Livry, one going over the upper of the two pontoon
of Madame de Sevigne's favorite haunts, bridges which he had caused to he built
there was nothing noticeable beyond the over the Marne, and we had mistaken
industry of the soldiers, who were none his direction and
the wrong crossed
of them lolling about or playing at cards, bridge. Thewas just what he
result
but were all engaged in some kind of had expected. We drew the tire from
hard work. Carpenters were plying their Forts Noisy and Rosnv, and that un-
trade; blacksmiths were soiling their fortunate bridge was raked with shell
uniforms over used-up horses ; the cooks for twenty minutes afterwards, in such
had improvised the accustomed cap, the a manner that we were uot surprised at
sign of their profession, out of the news- the officer's rage. Our last glimpse of
papers sent them from Germany; and him was as he stood jumping up and
the officers were giving orders as busily down on the banks of the Marne, and
as the captain of a Cunarder in a gale. shaking his fists at us, while the whole
We were soon at C'liehv-sous-Bois, atmosphere was charged with three-cor-
where the Guard corps ceased and the nered German imprecations. lie was so
Saxons were stationed. The First in- excited that he took no care for his own
fantry division had its head-quarters safety,and it was by no means pleasant
here in a huge chdteau, ami some officers to stand under this storm of the tre-
told us that their corps extended as far mendous projectiles launched by the
as the left bank of the Marne on to the forts.
scene of the recent fight. The Saxons We talked with the Wurtemburgers
were a ruddy, healthy, but dowdy look- who hail been in the recent battle. These
ing, set of soldiers. The officers were were stolid, tranquil, and clumsy men,
models of elegauce and refined courtesy. whom the French never shook from their
posts, nor blew away with artillery, nor Boudy St. Leger, where the stalwart
frightened with bayonet charges. " It Pomeranian Second regiment was quar-
was not much <>!' n fight," said one : tered alone- the road, and as we were
••
they could not dig us out." The simile nearing the latter town we caught a
was a g 1 (inc. charming glimpse of Paris. From the
Before us lay the lovely Maine, the high hill which we climbed just before
suow-clad branches ou its banks reflected reaching a forest surrounding Baron
ill the (lark blue of its water, anil here Ilottinguer's chdteau, the sun strug-
ami there a little island half hidden under gled out of a cloud under which he had
Hie sweeping boughs of the ancient trees. been sulking for some time, and touched
Bevond the bridge we found a pioneer the distant dome of the InvaliilcS, SO
guard seated around a pleasant camp- near and yet so far. We could distin-
fire. We rode to Champs; thence to guish the twin towers of Notre Dame
Malnoue, ami so over the barren battle- and the dimly outlined dome of the Pan-
field on which the Wurtemburgers had theon. Smoke and flames arose from
done such valiant work. Here the numbers of villages which had just been
country was desolate. In no village Bred by shells from Forts Ivry and
could we
find a. wisp of hay for our Charenton. On the high plateau at the
horses mi soldier had enough for his

:
wood of Bondy the Ger-
entrance to the
own beast. At Champs we found the mans had established a post of observa-
peasants so sharp in their expression tion. From Bondy to the old bridge of
of hatred to us as their supposed foes Charenton. almost under the very walls
that we were not sorry to find plenty of of Paris, there is a direct road, along
soldiers in the vicinity. which there had been much lighting.
We pushed on from Malnoue to La The Pomeranians were sore and angry,
Queue-en-Brie, a little town which bore for their losses in the action in which
indisputable marks of bard usage during they had just played such an important
the recent, fight. This bad been an part, bad been very heavy. Here, at
asvlum for the wounded, and the ground Bondy, the massing of troops was tre-
in nearly all the yards was strewn with mendous. It was evident that another
blood-stained straw. Every available sortie was expected, and that the two
article of furniture hail been smashed hundred thousand men wdio had recently
for firewood. It was not until the cold been called under arms in Germany
weather came that the Prussians began were fast arriving in the field. Soldiers
to do veritable damage to the costly swarmed and in the villages

in the forests
bouses in which they were quartered. from this point upward to Versailles.
The Germans were in a country where The lines which bad recently been thin
wood is scarcer than in any other sec- were now more than necessarily strong.
tion of Europe, with the exception of a It seemed madness for the besieged to
few noble, ancient, forests preserved by try and dislodge this enemy, confident
the state. Stone being the exclusive from his long succession of victories and
building material, it was only the palings, so strong in numbers.
the oak carvings, and the furniture upon On the way from La Queue to Bondy
which the cold and impatient soldiers we met and wounded
long trains of sick
could rely. coming back from Orleans. There were
From La Queue-en-Brie we went to several hundred wagons tilled with poor
fellowswho seemed in every stage of of many excesses, which were perhaps

mortal The melancholy train
illness. inevitable.
wound its way painfully along, a few On the way in we passed, at Wissons,
Uhlans riding here and there between the a gigantic park of artillery, about two
transports calmly smoking their pipes. hundred guns, which the artillerymen
Along the road we observed the field- were beginning to move. We found
telegraph service of both the Bavarian that it was not wise to ask questions as
and Prussian armies, the Prussian line to where those guns were going, and
easily distinguishable from the others drew our own conclusions as to the
by its black and white slender poles, probable commencement of the bom-
capable of being put down with great bardment.
rapidity and the Prussians did not take
; In Versailles we found the customary
the trouble to give it a guard, announc- programme, — funerals, serenades, horse
ing in each village that any one who exercising, patrols, concerts, and dinners
trifled with it should be shot. The Bava- at the Cafe de Neptune, in progress —
rians built their lines more substantially, exactly as we had left them.
but also exercised very trifling precau- Not long after our tour around Paris
tions against its cutting. The lines had we heard that the Prussians had entered
rarely been interrupted since they were Venddme, and there was a rumor that
placed. The majority of the soldiers the French were massing for another
whom we saw in Bondy had been before outbreak in Champigny.
the vicinity of
Metz, and were among the first to arrive But the attention of the Germans was
in front of Paris from that point. They concentrated on the bombardment, and
were usually stalwart, handsome men, endeavors at first made to conceal prepa-
dark-haired and fiery-eyed and we were
; rations for it were the source of much
told that they were one of the special misery for all journalists attached to the
prides of the Prussian army. head-quarters. There was a momentary
We returned to Versailles by the first enlivening of the monotony of the life at
line of investment part of the way, finish- Versailles by the creation of a " corre-
ing our journey in the third, quite in the spondent's question." It was brought
rear, where the Bavarians were stationed. about by the indiscretion of some cavalry
Shortly after leaving Bondy we left the men, who arrested, at Etampes, one or
Second corps behind us, and on our ar- two English journalists, and a gentleman
rival at Villeneuve St. George found who happened to be a Queen's commis-
ourselves among the members of the sioner. These worthy gentlemen were
Sixth Prussian corps. At Villeneuve St. brought into Versailles tied with ropes,
George the Prussians had two extem- which ropes were attached to the saddles
porized bridges across the Seine, one of of their captors and they were treated
;
pontoon and the other of trestle-work, as common spies, and much crowded and
both capable of sustaining any weight, hustled by onion-breathed Teutons, until
and both built in a miraculously short they were able to prove their identity.
time. Here, and at Villeneuve le Iioi, It was rather startling, and, at the same
was a complete overturn of houses ; time, amusing, to recognize in the French
and I do not blame the dwellers in spies whom we hail been summoned to
Parisian suburbs for abominating the see these gentlemen, who were supposed
Germans, whom they naturally accused to be perfectly well known as neutrals
:;;»•„' EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
and personages of distinction. Many minded the furloughed men that death
sharp criticisms having been passed on was still their near neighbor.
the arrogance of officers who had been The court preacher at the chapel that
engaged in this arrest, a personage high morning chose for his text these words :
in authority was said to have remarked •The peace of Cod passeth all under-
that, if the correspondents wished to standing.'" But the deputies and
magnify the matter into one of inter- diplomats, who had come up from Ger-
national importance, the simplest thing many, although they attended the sermon,
would be t<> send them all away from paid hut little attention to it. They
head-quarters; moreover, that they had were Iium' with their anticipations of the
been indiscreet in disclosing to the world royal interview. They were mainly jolly,
the whereabouts of the camion which beer-loving, men, from quiet

rubicund
were to convince the Parisians of the country towns, where Paris and Ver-
error of resistance. sailles were popularly thought twin gates
This teapot storm was soon over, and of Hades. There were a few noble-
our attention was directed to the dele- looking old men, with white mustaches
gation of members of the German par- and flowing hair, but rather awkward in
liament, who had come up to present comparison with the more accomplished
addresses to King William concerning military men.
the title of Emperor of termany, recently ( There was a great struggle for equi-
ottered him, on the K.llll of 1 >eeellll ier. pages on that day, but the most dignified
This delegation arrived, a motley array members had to appear in a held post-
of black, white, and gray, twenty wagon Wagon and two aged and respectable
;
loads of German burghers, who carried members of Parliament were conveyed

their festal mien into the wards of the into the royal presence in a vehicle so
very hospitals, and whose grotesque self- much resembling a furniture-van that
consciousness provoked bitter smiles even the officers laughed. There was a
from the French, too well-bred to grand reception at the Prefecture, at
indulge comment. in On that open which all the deputies were personally
day I saw Count Bismarck in his presented to the King after the presenta-
carriage he looked ill. and seemed to
; tion of their addresses, and crowds
have grown ten years older in a few gathered to see tin 1
princes roll away in
days. their carriages, and Von Podbielski and
The 18th was a gala day tor the Ger- Moltke in their helmets, stern and grave ;
mans. Thousands of soldiers thronged finally the Prefecture doors closed with
t he si reels all day, and went in reluctantly a bang, and the tall sentinels began to
when the orange sunset glow began to pace back and forth, as if moved by
tinge the west. There were music, wires. The King drove out shortly
glitter of uniforms, prancing of horses, afterwards, looking extremely well; and
and pomp of funerals, as if Death I observed with some astonishment that
liked to lie at the feast, grinning with numbers of Frenchmen saluted him ;
the rest. Death was present in the whether it was because the title of
morning, with his procession of forty Emperor, which they knew had just
collinsdraped with white, the Tartessian been presented for his consideration.
colors of mourning and the rumbling ; overwhelmed them, I know not.
thunder of the guns in the distance re- In the evening eighty persons sat
down to a. dinner of great magnificence. Convincing the officer that we had none,
Ou the night of the 18th there was a we were released, and learned from one
terrific cannonading, which the wind of the soldiers that they were looking
seemed to bring nearer than usual, and from another, that
after Francs-Tireurs ;
the deputies had a genuine fright. Win- weapons only were the object of the
dows rattled in Versailles. The people search and from a third, what proved
;
turned out in great excitement to dis- to be true, that a conspiracy for a revolt
cover what was going on. The King, it within Versailleshad been discovered,
was said, desired to accept the Emperor's and that there was a general search for
diadem, but wished to run the gauntlet the weapons which were to have done
of a vote in the Chambers first. the enemy damage. At almost the same
Winter now came in earnest. The minute in the same hour every house
great pond and fountain basins in the in the town was entered, and searched
palace gardens were ice-bound. The from cellar to garret. At the Hotel
officers had taken to their fur cloaks, des Reservoirs, the head-quarters of
and the princes, who had dawdled to and hundreds of officers, correspondents,
fro in the long avenues on their well- and diplomats, a young lieutenant of
groomed horses, now scurried away to nineteen had taken charge, and told
breakfast in the shabby hacks still left the rotund and rubicund landlord that
in Versailles. No less than six vigorous if he found anything suspicious in his
attempts had been made by the French cellar he would have him shot in his
to break out, the most signal effort being own court-yard. But this excessive
made near the edge of the forest of wrath on the part of the baby officer
Bondy, where the positions had received only provoked a smile from the host. A
a wonderful strengthening since the large arms was actually
collection of
Champigny fight. The artillery practice found in Versailles and in one of the
;
of the Prussian guns in the vicinity of houses, where an old lady solemnly de-
St. Cloud was exceedingly good, and clared that she had never had a weapon
one battery especially distinguished itof any kind under her roof, an acute
self. soldier stuck his bayonet into the ceiling
A few days before Christmas the non- and three guns dropped down. Some
combatants at Versailles were treated to enterprisingGerman had set on foot a
a novel sensation, to be expected in story that a band of desperadoes had
war time, but somewhat startling after concocted a plan to carry off the King,
the dulness of head-quarters' life. While Counts Moltke and Bismarck, and all
chatting quietly with a friend in his own the other important personages, and offer
apartments, in the Place Iloche, I ob- them in exchange for immediate and
served the sudden appearance of a body unconditional peace. Ridiculous as this
of cavalry in the square, and at the same story seemed,found it general cre-
time the people of the house came run- dence among the rank and file of the Ger-
ning to tell us that a band of soldiers mans, who professed great indignation.
was mounting the stairs. The officer The new Landwehrsmcn coming up
in charge arrived, curt and suspicious, from Germany about this time were the
posted sentries at all the exits, and we best specimens of soldiers that we hud
were shortly desired to state whether or seeu. They looked as if they had been
not we had any concealed weapons. created by some fairy expressly for the
occasion. There was one regiment of been permitted to leave their bad food
the Landwehrsmen of the Guard sta- and wretched lodgings in the deserted
tioned not far from Versailles, in which towns around the besieged capital
the fathers owned to seven thousand came thaw out over bottles of wine
in to
and three children, a little more than or bowls of punch. Few, if any, boast-
three apiece. From this one may im- ful allusions were made in these parties
agine the number of Christmas-boxes to the victories gained over the French.
which had been coming by the field post The stout Landwehr regiments in the
fur the ten days before the great festi- neighborhood, which had as many Christ-
val. mas-trees as companies, had their pres-
" Our October fires now flicker before ents distributed by the hands of their
Paris," boastfully said the German officers. The festivities were simple
press, while the last glimmer of autumn and hearty. A large room in some de-
sunset was falling athwart the spiles serted house was chosen for each com-
of Notre Dame. Neither German press pany, and there the tree was placed and
nor people expected that the Decem- the candles were lighted ; songs and
ber fires would send up their sparks recitations made 141 the balance of the
around extemporized Christmas-trees entertainment. Most of the soldiers
in the camps before Paris but, when ; at, the outposts had wine to think. Iu
it was found that the siege was to town the day was celebrated at the
be long, the good wives at home Prefecture and at the residence of the
made ample provision for their absent Crown Prince. At the King's there
husbands, fathers, and brothers, and were two Christmas-trees, and some of
enormous trains bringing the gifts of the presents given and received by the
love came rolling through Strasbourg royal family were of great, value. The
and Nancy and Epernay, and up to Crown Prince distributed the gifts from
Lagny, where they discharged their his tree with his own hands. Much
comforting freight every day into the gossip was excited by the absence of
provision wagons, which moved with the Duke of Saxe Coburg from the
the same discipline marked the
that assembly of the other royal personages.
conduct of the whole army. The result He was the only exception, and the
was. that, by the arrival of Christmas- gossips attributed it to various causes,
tide, the thousands upon thousands of among others to the fact that lie had
Germans wire provided with the ma- made unpleasant remarks concerning
terial for the same festivities that they the conduct of the Saxons in the Cham-
would have held at home. pigny tight; while others claimed that
The chorus of the guns of Paris on he was moping, because there had once
Christmas Eve was superb. Through been talk of making him Emperor of
the clear, frosty air the grand baying Germany, and that now the crown had
and barking of the dogs of war echoed passed forever from his grasp. He
so loudly that it almost drowned the was in command, like Bismarck, of a
chorals of the jolly Weinuacht songs regiment of cuirassiers, but was little
that the few Germans who had been with it.
allowed to leave their regiments and The only thing which broke the se-
dine at head-quarters were permitted renity of the next day in the town was
to sing. Parties of officers who had the wailing of military bauds as the
dead from the hospitals were borne to the ice. This canal is one of the chief
their graves. On the evening of the beauties and when it is
of Versailles,
2">th there were, of course, dinners and frozen it makes a magnificent skating
French
feasting, despite the fact that the park. It is nearly five thousand feet
had been swarming by Bougival, and long, and about two hundred feet wide.
that the cannon had spoken thunder- Louis XIV. often transformed it into a
ously all day. Venetian scene in summer, and had some-
Within the great park one of the most times as many as two hundred gondolas,
singular sights was the sport of the gayly illuminated with glass lamps of all colors
uniformed soldiers on the newly made, upon it. Here, too, he had his artificial
but firm, on the canal. Hundreds of

ice sunsets, his gigantic fireworks, and his
officers, who had sent to Germany for mimic sea-fights ; and in winter, when the
their skates, orwho had found some in the weather was sharp enough, he aped
town, were frolicking like very boys on Russian splendor.
—;
356 euuove in storm and calm.
CHAPTER THIRTY-EIGHT.
"The Point of View." — The Campaign the South. — The Phantom Mobile.— New
in Year's Day.—
Scene at the Palace. — The Bornhai'ilmcnt of Paris. — Between the Fires Front in of Fort Issy.
In the Batteries. — < lore-nation of King William of Prussia as Emperor of Germany at Versailles.
THE alarmsyearandwentdisappointed
of
old out in the midst
hopes
his first
He said
walk over the
that piles
field of Beaugency.
of frozen corpses,
for the unhappy French of Versailles, scattered hither and yon, impressed him
and gloom and intense suffering for the even more than did tlie groans and
hundreds of thousands of the besieged shrieks of those who were still living, and
within the walls of Paris. It was hit- to whom no help could be given for
terlv cold in December. The environs hours. While passing a heap of Mobile
of Paris are rarely visited by a. heavy Guards, who had evidently been killed
snow fall, lint the snow came with the all at once, and nearly every one of
war and the siege, as if no source of whom was vigorously grasping his gnu,
misery were to lie left untried. he saw one handsome fellow lying so
When the first snow fell, a French quietly pallid in the cold moonlight that
friend of mine, in Versailles, said, he was tempted approach and note
to
" Thank God lor this It will kill thou- ! his rank. It was young soldier, hold-
a
sands of the Germans " That afternoon, ! ing in his stiffened hand a gun labelled
during a ride to the outposts, I saw a " N.Y. U.S.A." He said that he removed
stout Landwehrsman hugging himself the cap from the corpse's head, and, un-
with joy, and saying, '• Thank God for clinching the cold lingers, took the gnu,
this clear, cold weather! Now we can and carried away these souvenirs to
work." Versailles. He affirmed seriously that.
In this, as in so many other eases, for live nights afterwards, he was awa-
the " point of view " was everything. kened regularly, at the same hour, by
There was rough business in the South, the grasp of a relentless hand upon his
Huge ambulance trains went out every arm, and felt that he was struggling with
morning towards Orleans, and along the "It was," he said,
an invisible force.
line march towards Beaugency. In
of "the dead Garde Mobile trying to get
all the little towns on the route we saw T
his gun hack again !
sights made the blood curdle.

which The Bavarians were said to have lost
Both French ami Germans had perished thirty thousand men out of an army corps
by hundreds, f ir lack of proper care, which went into the southern campaign
The German sifters from the Bavarian thirty-five thousand strong. This was
Catholic convents did much to alleviate doubtless exaggerated, but the mortality
the sufferings of thousands of poor was tremendous. The South German
wretches. We saw men who were half States suffered heavily in losses of both
frozen from exposure over-night on the officers and soldiers. The Bavarians, in
and
battle-field, shall not soon forget
I fact, as a seemed to have
lighting corps,
an anecdote which a friend told me of been pretty well blotted out at one time
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. .•557
and when allusion was made to the fact Then all cried out " Long live the New
:
that General Von der Taun had gone to Year!" and a general hand-shaking
the support of some other army, the followed. Some insisted on bonnet-
Prussians were puzzled to know whether ing their friends, remembering that in
it meant that he had gone alone or taken Germany, you are caught in the street
if
the tiny remains of his legions with him. after twelve on New Year's Eve, you are
But the Bavarians took death as they likely to have your hat smashed over
took life, very easily, and it is to be said your eyes.
for them that they bore with strength Just as the festivities at the Crown
and patience a combination of ills which Prince's quarters were at their height,
would have killed less sturdy and more and the Crown Prince had risen to wel-
fastidious men. The French constantly come in the youthful year, the hoarse
accused them of ferocity and cruelty, and roar of a far-off salute broke the silence.
these stories doubtless arose from the There had been but little cannonading
merciless repression of Francs-Tireurs, during the day, and when this sud-
or the peasants who, without thinking it den boom of the cannon was heard by
necessary to join the regular soldiery, the German officers they involuntarily
took their guns in their hands and de- looked for their swords, and then looked
fended their homes. It seems clear that at each other. was taking
But no sortie
dozens of these men were shot in cold place. The was just upon
salute which
blood, simply as examples, during the the stroke of midnight was the funeral
campaign round about Orleans. It was salvo which Paris was firing over the
woe to the unlucky blue blouse seen grave of the disastrous 3'ear. For miles
behind a loop-holed wall or at a third- around, the twelve double-shotted volleys
story window. The French took occasion were heard ; and then there was silence
to massacre a large number of Bavarians, again.
whom they found in a tight place, not The officers made grand toilettes for
long after this practice of shooting the New Year's Day, and called to pay com-
Francs-Tireurs began and it was an-
; pliments to the King and their respective
nounced at Versailles that General generals in the early morning. New
Chanzy had said at Le Mans that he regiments of clean, and, as yet, untried,
would give no quarter to the enemy. soldiers came marching in before dawn,
New Year's Day at head-quarters passed and the Versaillais had for their etrennes
quietly enough. Several hundred officers of the new year a liberal supply of live
came town from the various
into the old and hungry Prussians. I was invited to
commands around Paris, and made up breakfast on this morning of January 1st
little parties, celebrating in the clumsy, with a French lawyer of distinction, who
but humorous, German way the advent lived in a comfortable house in the Place
of the new twelvemonth. In the Caf6 Hoche,and at eleven o'clock I knocked at
de Neptune, just at midnight, there was his hospitable door, and was received with
a great gathering of these officers, and a smiling face.
as the clock on the marble mantel struck "Let us," said my host, " make an
twelve, the oldest of the company arose, effort to forget the circumstances in
and, filling all glasses from a bowl which we are placed, and celebrate the
of steaming punch, said, "Gentlemen, advent of the year with something like
brother officers, it is just twelve o'clock." joy."
He led the way to the dining-room, rare tact, did not wait for coffee and
where the snowj" cloth of the great round cigars, but excused himself and politely
table was loaded with sparkling glasses, departed.
with fat bottles in wicker baskets, with Knowing the French temperament, I
fruit, with cordials,ami with a goodly waited with interest the explosion which
array of family silver. This was a I felt must come ; and, after the Prus-
tempting sight to one who had been for sian had closed the door behind him, and
weeks accustomed meagre fare
to the gone jingling down the stairs, my friend
of the restaurants of Versailles ami the caught up the glass, the plate, the bottle
camps near by for it must not lie sup-
; from which lie had drank, and threw
posed that g I food was easily obtain- them, crashing, into a corner; then sat
able atthe German head-quarters towards down with a pitiful face, and burst into
the close of the siege. It was almost tears. was hard and cruel to bear,
It
impossible to get it. no doubt; but his trials were as naught
But the noils were unkind on this the beside those of the besieged " out there
first day of the new year, and we were beyond," as he said, and. regaining his
scarcely seated opposite each other at calm, he hoped for better days.
table when the door-hell rang ami the The Prussians made liberal use of the
servant, returning with a white face, said, old palace of Louis XIV. for their
"A Prussian." My was white,

host's face stately ceremonies; and on this New
too, but he was too well-bred to make Year's Day, in the Salle des Glaces, all
any remark. He arose and left the room, the nobles of Germany gathered to-
presently returning with a tall, elegantly gether. The venerable King seemed to
ii niton ued, distinguished-looking German enjoy his visits to tin' palace on such
officer, who made the stiff military salute occasions, and after the receptions at
to which we were so well accustomed, the Prefecture he and his brilliant
and apologized for what was, he said, the COrtige attended service at the chapel.
" unwilling intrusion." But he had been The King was made uncomfortable by a
very anxious to see the old palace before very vigorous preacher, who insisted that
tin' campaign was over, and had obtained monarchs often erred on the side of
this day a leave of absence, and his billet leniency. We interpreted this to mean
had sent him here for breakfast and din- that the Germans at home were getting
ner. Would the gentlemen excuse him? impatient to hear details of the horrors
And here, my making a virtue of
friend, of the bombardment. But when we
necessity, placed him a chair at the table ;
said this to the Germans whom we
and, daintily removing his white gloves, knew, they were highly indignant.
the officer sat down. Amid the relies of France's ancient
It was an icy moment, and one which splendor an assembly crowded to hear
awoke all my sympathy for mine host; the King's address. There, where all
but we made the best of the situation, the wealth of Le Brun's coloring had
the German even disclosing a partial been bestowed on the portrayal of the
talent for English and naturally avoiding great monarch's glories; where the pla-
all mention of current events. The break- fond was covered with such painted
fast was eaten, the wine was drunk in flattery that even Frenchmen blushed at
cool and stately civility, and the officer, the vanity of one of their race; there,
who was a gentleman, and possessed of where Louis once had his throne brought,
that he might sit upon it as the ambas- last arrived. The natives of Versailles
sador of the King of Persia sank on his kept asking each other : How about the
knees before him, now stood the King of bombardment? Why does it not com-
Prussia in full general's uniform, with the mence ? But it had already commenced,
Crown Prince, the Prince Friedrich Karl, and the Prussians had begun their
with the chief admiral of the navy, steady task of reducing the outworks of
Prince Adelbert. The scene was one of the capital. The Germans, from the first,
dazzling splendor, and the Prussian expected an increase of losses on their

uniforms harmonized well
with the gilding and the
rainbow colors of the
royal palace. The floor,
inlaid with rare and finely
labored woods, so that

the effect of light and
shade upon it is to make
it look like the surface of
a transparent pond, or
some delicately tessellated
marble pavement in a Ro-
man church, — this floor
some of the
fairly startled
Prussians who had never
before entered the hall,
and they seemed to be

uncomfortable lest their
dainty boots should be hen
wetted. One or two of d
them went sprawling, for y
waxed parquets are diffi- a
cult to walk upon, (hit- day or two
side, trumpets brayed, gay after the first
horses pranced, and court- cannon were
ly men bowed low as THE FRENCH TROOPS ABANDONING THE fired from the
the future Emperor left PLATEAU AT AVRON. a d v a n c e d
the Palace after having Prussian bat-

listened to compliments from the hun- teries, a thousand additional hospital
dreds of courtiers and foreign diplo- beds were ordered in Versailles. The
mats present. In the evening, at the silence of Forts Rosny, Noisy, Ro-
Grand Duke
dinner at the Prefecture, the mainville, and Aubervilliers, after the
of Baden made a speech, in which he reduction of Mont Avron, was much
alluded to the Imperial Crown, which, commented on, and the Prussians were
as Frederick William IV. had said, mystified by it. The Germans did not
should only be worn on the field of reject as entirely ridiculous the state-
battle. ment might be mined, and
that the forts
The " psychological moment " had at it might be a very costly experiment to
3r.o EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
assault and occupy them. By and by which the Prussians called an iron-clad
the batteries which the Saxons had been fort. But presently we saw that the
building on the crests of Raincy began smoke was not within Paris walls. It
to play upon the forts. The Saxons seemed in direct line with the Arch, but
intended to accomplish a double purpose was caused by the burning of the village
at once, —
to disorganize the advance forts of Boulogne, opposite St. ( loud, on the
near them by a regular bombardment by Seine bank. With the field-glass we
their batteries on the right, and to rain could see trains crowded with soldiers or
down shells from the plain of Avron on the double-decked ears rattling along the
the left, so that the French could not Ceinture railway, and being transferred
maintain their outworks. The batteries to the eastern side.Crash came defiant
at Chelles, Noisy, La Pelouse, and other notes from Issy, and presently noises
points near by, crossed their fires at were heard above our heads. The Prus-
Avion ; seemed a perfect Inferno
and it sian rifled cannon were throwing shells,
on the plains for some hours. and we could track their course. Sud-
The French had been constructing a denly they would become small as birds,
huge entrenched camp here, hut their and then lost to view. Once we saw
phms were broken up by this furious three alight in Fort Issy at once. There
shell tire of the Saxons. Avron was very was a silence among the French gunners
strongly fortified, particularly towards for some minutes; then the angry defi-
the east. There the French had three ance began again, and we were com-
rows of batteries, one above the other, pelled hastily to shift our position.
and many of the cannon were of enor- The lerman gunners were determined
(
mous calibre. The stillness of Forts to hit the great viaduct, which stood
Noisy and Rosiiy, after the retreat so prominent and tempting a mark just
from Avron, was regarded by the Prus- outside the walls of Auteuil ; hut they
sians as a conclusive proof that the siege never succeeded. I was told at the
was near its end. " If," they said, " we close of the siege that the Parisians
could occupy those forts, we could very went every Sunday to make excursions
soon send shells into Belleville and La along the circular railway to this viaduct,
Villette." which was covered witli trains, from
From New Year's Day until the great which thousands of people were endeav-
sortie of Montretout, the cannonading oring to get a glance at the Prussians,
was almost incessant. Every day irought 1 none of them having the slightest fear
its alarm; every day its picturesque of the Teutonic projectiles.

event ; every day, for us, its long ride or Between one of the principal Prussian
walk to the batteries or to little coigns batteriesand Fort Issy, quite in the open,
of vantage, from which we could see stood a house, always held by a certain
something of the tremendous final oper- number of stout-hearted soldiers, and
ation of the siege. biding towards Issy serving as an ohervation post for officers.
one morning, and looking out over Paris, This was not a tranquil place, for the
we saw tall black columns of smoke Prussian shells went whizzing and moan-
rising apparently to the Triumphal Arch. ing above one's head, and once every
The arch towered up, mistily defined in minute came the whirring response from
the distance, and with a field-glass we the French embrasures. If the gunners
could observe the construction on its top in Issv had desired to shorten their range
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 3G1
and let fall a shower of missiles on this had swarmed out over the bridge of Bas
house they could do so at any moment. Meudon at early morning, but while
But thoy preferred to expend their fire they were crossing, the Prussian bat-
upon the battery beyond, and so one teriesopened a deadly fire upon them,
was perhaps safer between the fires than and the bridge giving way precipitated
he could possibty have been either in a large number of soldiers into the
fort or battery. Seine.
Here we came one morning, and nar- Inside Paris the vigorous bombard-
rowly escaped being shot by the excited ment which was now covering a wide
soldier at the door before we could show district on the left bank of the .Seine
our permission, and before we could was producing its sad effect. The
make ourselves heard by an officer, but HOpital de la Pitie was riddled with
finally we were admitted. Iwas struck bombshells on the night of the 8th of
with the coolness of the commanding January from the heights of Chatillon
He had the
officer at this difficult post. and from Meudon. The Prussians
veritable spirit of aBrandenburg pirate ;
seemed deliberately bombarding the
and while the shells were crashing above venerable public institutions of the great
and around he opened a bottle of wine, capital, — the hospitals, the churches, the
and invited us to partake, telling, mean- colleges, universities, the schools of
time, with pride how his soldiers had re- medicine and art.
cently made the discovery of several was not strange that a cry went up
It
hundred bottles of Chateau Margaux through all Europe, a civ of horror and
in one cellar. "Your Bavarian,'' he reproach, and that it almost startled the
said, with a smile. " lias an antiquarian Germans into a change of policy.
taste in wine, and we can always trust But they soon became impervious
him to probe the cellars of the tfititeaux to criticism. They pleaded the impe-
around." rious necessity of war as an excuse for
This officer looked upon war, by his bombarding the vast city crowded with
own confession, as a brilliant episode in helpless women and children; so they
life,one which called out the best of a sent shells in showers for two months
man's energies, and he saw no reason to into one of the most thickly populated
quarrel with it as abnormal or cruel. He sections of Paris. The church of St.
had the veritable Prussian training, the Sulpice, the Sorbonne, the Val de Grace,
hard-hearted, sceptical way of looking were all struck by shells. In a school in
at things in accordance with his own the Rue de Vaugirard four children
system and that of his race, of consider- were killedfive wounded by a
and
ing everything reasonable and proper single shell.The Luxembourg Museum
which suited his own ends. As for out- was evacuated. The physicians of the
bombe!
siders, gare la hospital of the Enfants Malades issued
On the 13th of January we were told a protest, declaring that the innocent
that twenty-six German batteries had children would be slain in their beds.
been playing until late in the evening The authorities at the Jardin des Plantes
upon various quarters of Paris. The voted an inscription to be engraved on
Bavarians were attacked by the French one of the buildings of their celebrated
early in the day but the enemy was
; museum, stating that the garden founded
repelled. Rumor said that the French by Louis XIII. had been bombarded
365 EUROPE L\ STORM AND CALM.
under the reigu of William I., King of out in expectation of a grand sortie,
Prussia. which would be the closing effort of the

In the cellars of Montronge were siege, and perhaps of the war. This feel-
hundreds of frightened refugees. To ing was in the air on the morning of the
the great vaults of the historic Pantheon 19th, which had been selected as a date for
came the crowd beside the
living to the ceremony of King William's accept-
noted dead, who were there entombed; ance of the Imperial dignity conferred
and, during the whole twenty-live days upon him by the German nations, now
of the bombardment, a terrible period to be welded and unified into one, and
which there is no space properly to under the influence of their ancient tradi-
describe here, every day brought its tion to accept an empire as the type of
horror and its sacrifice of human life. their new community. Some of the Prus-
Meantime old Port Issy, which had sian officers wen' heard to say, on the
been so conspicuous from the first, kept morning of the 19th, that it was a. good
up its reputation. It was inspiring to tiling to get the ceremony over, as there
witness the defense of this place. The would be sharp work shortly. There
ma line was there submitted to
artillery was, indeed, sharp work two days later,
an almost crushing lire from the German when the great outpouring of Montretout
batteries, and held out from first to last took place; but alas! was not des-
it
magnificently under the plunging shells tined to profit the French who wasted
from ('lama it, from ( hatillon, from Meu- their heroism in vain efforts against the
doii.These marines, after their casemates ever-re-strengthened line of the enemy.
had been smashed into muddy fragments The day selected was noteworthy in
ami the stones had been all knocked Prussian minds for three tilings : first, for
about by bombs, would drag out their being the anniversary of the crowning of
fifteen cannons, hitching themselves to Frederick the Great; second, the birth-
the pieces, and tugging them forward, day of the eldest child of the Crown
tiring, screaming like savages as they Prince; and third, as "Order Day,"
fired, then dragging back their guns when all princes and officers decorated
under the shelter of the half-dismantled on previous occasions for conspicuous
parapets. In this fort of Issy one hun- gallantry are wont to pass before their
dred men were killed, and :x great royal master in review and receive his
number were wounded by shells, and of felicitations. Here, indeed, was an oppor-
four hundred who fell ill of cold, hunger, tunity for
a. fine pageant, and one which
and want of sleep, three-quarters died might have roused the pride and vain-
shortly after the capitulation. glory of a nation more susceptible of
By the time of the completion of the vanity than the German. Despite the
second parallel in front of Port Issy all apprehensions of coming slaughter, the
the non-combatants at Versailles who recent victories in the south and the
were allowed the privilege of going outside apparent success in other sections of
the towns were intensely interested in the France had put the helmeted warriors in
gnat duel between the German besiegers a good humor with themselves, and so
and these vigorous defenders of their they seemed to give themselves up to
position. The desperate energy of the enjoyment.
marines in Issy led gradually up to the The day was a strange mixture of
conclusion that all the forts were holding- damp and cold, with occasional gleams
.
of warm sunshine, the rain coming down, sian ceremony of modern times was to
as it were, to weep over the dead, and occur.
then the sun chasing away the tears as Around the statue of Louis XIV. a
unworthy of so great an occasion. curious crowd of civiliansand soldiers
Towards ten o'clock a brilliant throng had gathered, and the gendarmes bad
began to assemble in the court-yard of allowed them to remain there. Few
the palace, and increased steadily in French people were present. A crazy
brilliancy and volume until the stroke old woman ran hither and yon for some
of twelve, when the King, preceded time, cursing everybody and begging
by guards and outriders, drove to the from everybody but her curses and
;
doors of the great middle hall, enter- entreaties passed comparatively unno-
ing the court-yard from the Rue des ticed in the greater excitement of the
Reservoirs. About eleven I found drawn moment. An odd spectacle was the
up in line the King's bodyguard, taken pedestal of the statue of Bayard, with a
from all the best regiments of the army, lot of Prussian soldiers sitting dangling
and glittering in a hundred colors, their legs from it. One could almost
strongly contrasted. Thronging past imagine the old hero looking with scorn
these lines of warriors were the invited upon the enemies below him. Two lines
guests of higher rank, hastily returning of soldiers —-boys, but superb figures,
the salutations of hundreds of hands perfectly trained boys — were formed in
embodying with accustomed servility the squares in the vicinity of the en-
the expression of their humbleness. trance of the Salle des G laces, and there
Many of the Bavarian and Wurtemburg military bands were stationed to salute
officers bad for the first time got out the coining King. The German banner,
their gala uniforms, which had so long we observed, was now floating where
been packed in camp-chests that they latterly the red-cross Hag alone had
were all creased, and even soiled and tar- been seen above the portico of the palace.
nished, and some of the stately gentle- The wounded crowded to the
soldiers
men of the German court presented a windows and their
to see the spectacle,
rather sorry figure. The Bavarian sol- pale faces were the only vision of war
diers were, wonder, especially
for a which thrust its ghastly presence upon us.
fine in their bright-blue uniforms and Presently the guests began to arrive
shining helmets, and some of the officers pellmell. There was not much attempt
were men of majestic presence. The at glory of equipage, as in campaigning
Saxons were, as usual, spotless in raiment it is difficult to obtain good carriages.
The gigantic men of the Guard corps Von Moltke came in a post-carriage
stalked about in their white uniforms which was splashed with mud Von Bis- ;
and jack-boots. The dark-haired, stal- marck in a little caleche, to which two
wart Brandenburger ; the Berliners, diminutive ponies were attached the :
with on nose
spectacles the strap- ; Crown Prince in his modest coupe"; and
ping cavalry men, with iron crosses on dozens of officers in full toilette were
their breasts; and the slender youths, caught in a pouring shower, which sud-
with long hair combed back under denly visited us. Half-a-dozen princes
their casques, and swords buckled on would dash up in an omnibus, which they
their slender thighs, — all hastened had happily discovered at the last mo-
to the hall where the greatest Prus- ment and the historic furniture-van,
;
which played such an important rdle in he must have reflected a mo-

courtiers,
the transportation of potentates, military ment on the mutability of human great-
and political, in Versailles, again came ness and on the future of the country
into play. Great precautions were taken with which he as an oldman could have
for tile safety of the King. Stout sol- but little Solemnly to accept the
to do.
diers wandered carelessly about in the German crown when he could not swear
crowd, lint with their guns held as a long to uphold the Empire even by his
huntsman holds his when he hears the sword and word must have seemed to
deer breaking cover. How did the him like mockery. To place it on his
Prussians know how far French fanati- brows at the end instead of the beginning
cism might venture? It only went far of his long and stately career, as he
enough, to my knowledge, mysteriously paused before the gate of Paris, about
to suggest that the last time that a second
to enter that great capital for the
great public gathering was held in the time as a victor, could not, however,
Salle des Glaces it had been found nec- have been without a certain consolation.
essary to prop the floor, so weak with In the middle of the grand hall, and with
age had become. But we may fairly
it its back to the windows opening on the
presume that the Germans, with their park, an altar was erected. Upon this
talent for investigation, had carefully altar, gracefully decorated, lighted can-
examined the parquet of the time of dles were placed, and at each side sat
Louis XIV. Prince George of Saxony three pastors, clothed in the sombre
was one of the most noticeable in the habiliments of their order, and symbol-
crowd of notables; and around him was izing the support of the Church to the
a brillianl assemblage of officers. new Empire. Farther down the hall
All along the Avenue de Paris and the was another and smaller altar, and in
Place d'Armes, as the King camcrattliug front of this were arranged the standards
from the Prefecture to the palace, arose of all the regiments of the third army.
deafening shouts of " Hurrah for the Between the two altars were placed
Emperor!" The guard along the grand Bavarians and other soldiers. In front
staircase which led to the Salle des of the principal altar were several sol-
Glaces was composed of picked men diers, who had, in times past or in recent
from the various regiments around Paris. campaigns, received two iron crosses, anil
Visibly affected by the magnificent spec- two of them had their heads bound up,
tacle before him, the old King wandered and showed other marks of ugly wounds.
into the great, loom like one scarcely On the platform at the farther end of
daring to believe that the splendors the gallery many soldiers were stationed
before him were real ; and during the upholding standards.
whole ceremony he was profoundly The King was preceded by the mar-
moved, and listened with the air of one shal of his householdand the court mar-
surprised, and continually questioning shal, the Counts of Pucklen and Per-
himself as to what it all meant. poncher, and followed by Prince George
One hundred and seventy years before of Saxony, the reigning Duke of Saxe
Frederick I. had put on the crown des- Coburg, and the majority of the heredi-
tined to such prominence in history. tary princes. Beside these, as they
As King William entered the hall where took their places in front of the grand
Louis XIV. had been wontto receive his altar, were also the Crown Prince,
EUROTE IN STORM AND CALM. :;<;.
Prince Charles of Prussia, the King's his address to the princes, in which he
brother and Grand Master of the Order declared his intention of accepting the
of St. John of Jerusalem, the Grand Imperial German Crown. After he had,
Dukes of Sase Weimar, Oldenburg, and with faltering voice, finished his vow,
Baden, the Duke of Saxe Meiningen, Bismarck advanced tranquilly to read
the Duke of Saxe Altenburg, Princes the proclamation to the German people.
Luitpold and Otho of Bavaria, Prince This was, so far as Bismarck was con-
William and Duke Eugene of Wurtem- cerned, the culmination of the war ; the
burg, Leopold of Hohenzollern, who had German people under
unification of the
unwittingly provoked the war, and the the rule of one man was accomplished.
Duke of Holstein. The old King, bolt No wonder such a gigantic task had made
upright, and from time to time gazing a diplomat already ripe in years look
with childlike curiosity upon the scene, almost as old as his master.
listened intently to the sermon which one After the reading of the proclamation
of the preachers now delivered with the of Baden, who seemed
Grand Duke
much grace and The sermon
eloquence. to have been adopted as spokesman on
touched upon the historic and religions most occasions, hailed the King as Em-
character of the ceremony now in prog- peror of Germany. A three-times-three
ress, endeavored to describe its
and awoke the echoes which had been lying
mysterious influence on the hearts of perdu for two centuries, and the Crown
the German nation. It was a fine Prince hastened to embrace his father
tribute as well to the new subject of ado- and affectionately to grasp his hand.
ration, the venerable hero soldier; and II is example was followed by all the
the King was deeply affected by it. members of the Royal Family and all
Von Bismarck and Von Moltke mean- the princes and dukes present. Whi n
time, one on each side of the platform, the ceremon} was finished, there were
-
winked sleepily and wickedly, and tears on the old King's face, and many
seemed inwardly much amused at all of the lookers-on were visibly moved.
this parade. General Blumenthal, also Amid the waving of standards, flags
near at hand, with the commanding gen- which had been in all the early battles
erals and officers of all grades grouped of the present war, and the echoes of
about him, was grimly silent, and ap- the national hymn and triumphal
peared to consider the whole thing a marches, the brilliant assembly broke
waste of time. In long rows down each up and drove away in its hundreds of
side of the gallery were the distin- carriages, splendid and shabby, to the
guished military and civil personages task of eating the dinner in celebration
from all nations of Europe. of " Orders Day." At the Hotel des
The sermon finished, a general buzz Reservoirs and other fashionable res-
of congratulation was just springing up taurants there was riotous merriment,
in the hall when the King suddenly and the word " Kaiser" echoed through
advanced to the platform, and there, the street, and in all places where uni-
surrounded by the standard-bearers of forms were visible, until long past mid-
the first Guard regiment, he pronounced night.
—
366 EURO I'll IN STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER THIRTY-NINE.
Bourbaki and Belfort. —
The Final Sortie of the French. Montretout. — — The Panic in Versailles.
—
The Treaty for Peace. The Eiul of the Siege of Paris.
WHERE is Bourbaki?" was a fre- battle to the French at Pont-Noyelles

quent question at the German and at Bapaume, where there was a
head-quarters in the days just before the great slaughter of German squadrons
great fight at Montretout. A certain and cavalry, and where Faidherhe, with
portion of the army under his command reason, claimed success; but the closing
seemed to be lest sight of, and caused the of most of the northern fortresses by the
Germans no little uneasiness. The first German army was finally successful,
siege of Belfort had been checked by The .Seventh corps besieged Thiojiville;
the proximity of a part of Bourbaki's the bombarded Mezieres with the
first
armv, and the invaders naturally thought siege cannon which it had taken from
that the object of the wily Frenchman the French at Montmedy. Mezieres
was to raise the siege of this fortress, surrendered Peronne was bombarded
;
which was defended with such heroic and capitulated Rocroi gave up
; ;
valor, and to bring into active use the C'harleville was disarmed and Belfort ;
great supply of munitions shut up within was undergoing a bombardment, in coin-

it. Every conceivable supposition was parisou with which that of Paris was
indulged in at head-quarters. Now it feeble. Yet the Germans, to the very
was said that Bourbaki intended to leave moment of the surrender of the forts in
Belfort to attack the communications front of Paris, were oppressed with fears
line,and now to slip away into Ger- lest out of the north might come a
manv, and begin a war of reprisals, crushing blow to check them just as they
But manv had already begun to consider were at the moment of their supreme
him as sharing the incompetency of some triumph.
of his brothers in office, because he had So predisposed, indeed, were the in-
not improved his brilliant opportunities, vaders to a panic, that, when the and last
The French arms had not been crowned despairing effort of the besiegers was
with victory in the north, although atone made, and resulted in the occupation of
time it seemed as if the campaign, so the redoubt of Montretout, near Mile
vigorously organized by Bourbaki, would d'Avray, there was universal consterna-
yield brilliant results. l'.ut Bourbaki lion at Versailles. The gallant Jagers,
was replaced by General Faidherhe, who w hohadlongheld the redoubt, wen- thrown
at first had numerous successes, and back upon the Versailles road in great
was finally worsted in the battle of St. confusion ; and the population of the
Quentin, fought on the 19th of January, old capital of Louis XIV. flocked out, —
The struggle in the north was hard and regardless of the menaces of the Germans,
full of romantic and picturesque episodes. — shouting and laughing, fully convinced
The Prussian took Amiens ; they gave that they were to welcome their victori-
* \ I i
i
, »
ARREST OF A SUPPOSED SPY
ous brethren, and to see the headlong

retreat of the Teutonic foe towards the
German frontier. It did not take long
in those days for any proclamation which
was posted in Paris to reach Versailles ;
the German were worthy of all the

spies
contemptuous praise which the French
bestowed upon them and they went in ;
and out of the lines with a recklessness

and frequency which were quite dazzling.
On the morning of the 19th they brought shells. The cry to arms is heard on every
side.
in a report that the following document
Those among you who can give their lives
had been posted upon the walls of l'aiis, on the field of battle will march against the
and was signed by the members of the enemy. Those who remain, to show them-
Government of National Defense :
— selves worthy of their brethren, will accept,
if necessary, the hardest sacrifices, as their
Citizens, — The enemy is slaying your means of devotion to tiie country's service.
wives and children. It bombards us night Let us suffer, and die if necessary, but let us
and day. It covers even our hospitals with cry : Vive la Republique I
As the result of this touching procla- hymns, harmoniously and enthusiasti-

mation, which, after the lapse of years, cally, only pausing in their musical efforts
seems perhaps to our colder apprehension to cheer when the old Emperor came
somewhat theatrical in tone, but which back from his brief visit to the front.
then scut a thrill of pity through our The National Guards were highly praised
hearts, and impressed us with the same by the Germans, although Bismarck, in
fervor feeling that it gave to the
<>f speaking of them to Jules Favre a little
Parisians, the one hundred thousand later on during the Conference, relative
men massed outside the walls on the to the conclusion of the armistice, said,
night from the l.Stli to the ltlth were de- '• Oh, yes ; they arc very brave fighters ;
termined to break through the German but when they are going into action they
lines at :io matter what cost of
life, and are so glad of it that they warn us an
to reach the oldtown where the invader hour in advance."This was a spiteful
had so coolly and so insolently estab- criticism, provoked by the knowledge
lished himself. These forces were that, had the French begun their action
massed in front of Forts Valerien and one or two hours earlier on the 19th of
Issy daybreak on the 19th; and at
at January they might have gone straight
eight o'clock they had driven in the into Versailles, and, possibly, have
Prussian pickets, and a general alarm captured the made Emperor of
newly
was sounded all along the German lines. Germany, and all his court. The moral
Attacks were expected in the direction effect of such acoupde main would have
of St. Denis and on the extreme east; been so great that it might have com-
but they did not then occur. pletely changed the current of events
Before eight o'clock we heard in Ver- and forced the conclusion of a peace
sailles that twenty-four battalions of most honorable to France.
French liners, National Guards and The assault at Montretout cost the
Zouaves, had begun the work of reduc- French large numbers of men, and the
ing the batteries of St. Cloud and slopes were covered with dead and
storming Montretout. As soon as the wounded until a late hour in the even-
object of the attack was discovered, all ing. General de Bellemare got on to
the troops of Versailles were at once the crest known as the Beigerie ; there
despatched to the scene of action, and took the curd's house, and pushed on
the reserve, ten thousand stalwart Bava- valiantly into the park of Buzcnval.
rians, were ordered from Bievre and all General Ducrot, meantime, on the right,
the towns in the rear of the investment was creeping up to the heights of La
lines on the south-west, to take up their Jonchere. The day was wretchedly
position in the Prussian head-quarters. cold and damp; and from time to time
The dozens of batteries which had been a heavy fog hindered the French officers
so long stationed on the Place d'Armes carrying orders from one part of the
were limbered up. and rallied away in field to in their movements.
another
the direction of Montretout. Cavalry, This, doubtless, greatly demoralized the
infantry,and artillery filled the Avenue ensemble of the action.
do Paris and the Avenue de St. Cloud, From Saint Germain, and from the
and the men settled down wearily in the Villa Stern, we had very advantageous
mud to wait the turn of events, the Ba- views of the fight. From behind the
varians beguiling the hours by singing trenches which protected the French the
EUROPE IN STURM AM) CALM. 369
firewas steady, and seemed gradually been chosen by the French as the point
forcing the Prussians to give way. The where they might form without being ob-
King left Versailles early in the after- served, while they waited their turn in the
noon, attended by a numerous guard, movements. By and by Saint Germain
and took up his post on the viaduct of became an object of close attention
Marly, whence he had witnessed the affair from the French fire, and many shells
at Le Bourget in October. The Germans were aimed with splendid accuracy at
universally hailed the occasion as the the pontoon bridge over the Seine.
"-": ~~ -
'"^vS. :
THE WALT, OF BUZENVAL.- EPISODE OP TITE STEGE OF PARIS.
baptism of fire lor the new Emperor, One, two, and three, burst nearby with-
and he was acclaimed whenever he out inflicting much damage; at last the
showed himself to the enthusiastic sol- gunners got their range, and threw the
diery. From Saint Germain, about mid- projectiles directly on to the structure.
afternoon, we observed a great massing Then, as ill-luck would have it, the shells
of French troops in the edge of the Bois did not burst. Finally this was given
du Vesinet. This beautiful wood, which up, and the gunners from the batteries
lay spread out like a lordly park before in front of Valerien tried long-range
the spectators on the great terrace, had shot at the Pavilion Henri IV., at the
370 EUROl'E IN STORM AND CALM.
end of 1 lio terrace ; and there was a admitted that they would have had to
general sauve </"i peut, until ilwas lose at, hundred men
least six if they had
demonstrated that Valerien could not pursued the National Guard.
reach that point. During the few The inhabitants of Versailles had cer-
hours since ten o'clock the concentra- tainly thought that deliverance was near.
tion of German troops near Montretout Many arrests were made. The soldiery,
had been very rapid, and, as the French which had all the winter been good-
massed up against tin redoubt which 1
natured in its intercourse with the French
their advance had taken and so cour- population, suddenly became disagreeable
ageously held, they were met by a terri- and fierce, and we saw many little epi-
ble lire. sodes which indicated that a collision

Thi' French troops of the National might readily have been provoked. A
Guard, who had been much ridiculed by Zouave, half intoxicated, was brought
the regular liners during the siege, stood in from the battle-field between two
under lire for more than live hours dur- dragoons, and the comments of the Ger-
ing this tight without breaking ranks. mans upon his antics roused the greatest
When the French attacked on the side indignation among the French. A rough
near Garches became evident that
it dragoon at the head of a patrol column
the German resistance was fully organ- was so annoyed at seeing a priest stand.
ized, and would be successful. Just ing in the midst of an anxious and angry
at the time that the French soldiers crowd, and haranguing the people, that
were thoroughly fatigued by their long lie singled out the man of long robes,
watch on the previous night and their and chased him ingloriously into a neigh-
severe fighting, the German reserves boring house, striking him a number of
poured down upon them, and threw them times with the flat of his sword. Many
out of their position at, Montretout. peasants were brought in by soldiers and
Hut, to the surprise of all the lookers-on, charged with cutting the telegraph wire.
the French rallied, and came back at a. There was only one sentence passed by
furious pace up the hill, breaking the military tribunals in such cases, — sen-
German line, which, although it wavered, tence of and the penalty was
death ;
kept up wild hurrahs of victory, anil placarded in a hundred places in Ver-

never ceased its steady volleys of mus- sailles. There were many tearful eyes
ketry. The French were half-a-dozen at the officers' tables at the cafis where
times well installed at points from which the invader dined, that evening, when
they could have thrown shells into Ver- the list of German losses came in with
sailles ; luit. as the dreary winter dark- the evening report. The official journal
ness closed in. the tiring on both sides the same evening mentioned the Sortie in
ceased almost, entirely, and towards a paragraph of six lines, in which it
eight o'clock the National Guards left utterly ignored the partial success of the
the redoubt, the Germans throwing an French, and said that the German losses
occasional shell into the columns, which \vvi\' insignificant, which was untrue. It
went down the hill in very good order, also announced that Bourbaki was
in
and flocked away to Rueil over roads full retreat, and that the siege of Belfort
covered with wounded and dying men, had been resumed.

wagons and carts up to the hubs of Late at night the troops from the
their wheels in mud. The Germans battle-field were still coming into town,
bespattered with mud, and many of them of General C'hanzy's army at Le Mans,
grievously wounded, and marched past and the defeat of Faidherbe at St.
the Place d'Annes while military bands Quentiu, were terrible blows to the
played hymns of victory. The long French. The Prussians bad now invaded
artillery trains came trundling back to Normandy. They were at Rouen Long- ;
tiic great square, the guns were placed wy had capitulated, and we were not
in the old positions, and the stalwart surprised when we heard that Jules Favre
artillery-men were at work cleaning them, had visited Versailles, and that a sus-
half an hour after their arrival, with pension of hostilities was certain.
the same careful concern witli which an The French appeared to have thrown
English groom would care for a horse away their weapons rather wildly after
after a muddy gallop. It was well-nigh their withdrawal from Montretout, for
midnight before the return from the wagon-loads of chassepdts were brought
battle-field was over, and all night long into Versailles. I saw several hundred
the patrols kept up a vigilant promenad- of the guns undergoing examination two
ing through the town. days after the fight at Montretout, and
When Paris came to count its losses think that the conquered chassepdts were
after this memorable day, it was thrilled distributed to the German outposts.
with horror. Among the dead at Buzen- After the surrender of the large number
val was the noble young painter, Henri of fortresses, big and little, nothing was
Regnault, a colorist of great distinction, more common in Versailles and around
already noted for the L
" .Salome," which Paris than to see a Prussian officer wear-
is sufficient to render bis name immor- ing a French sword, the silver cord and
tal. At Buzenval, too, fell a young tassel contrasting strongly with the
comedian of the Theatre Francais, who severely elegant plainness of his own uni-
when he was taken to the hospital estab- form. The Germans could see nothing in-
lished in the theatre to which he belonged, congruous in wearing a conquered enemy's
said, " I have come back to play once weapons in his own country, and reasoned
more the last scene of the Fourberies '
as an officer did concerning the proposed
de Scapin.' " A few hours later he died. removal of the military library of .St. Cyr
Both sides were eager for an armistice; to Berlin: '-It is ours by the rights of
and the Prussians, on the morning of the war, and if the French are anxious to
20th of January, sounded their bugles have it back, let them
come and get it."
three times, to offer a truce of a few hours, The library, however, was not removed.
before the French answered. Meantime Each morning we were awakened by
the Germans carried the French wounded the clatter of muskets and the regu-
to Marnes, where a Prussian general lartramp of newly arriving troops.
meeting a French general, said to him, The Laudwehrsmen, the business men,
" We w ere filled with admiration for the
r
thinkers, butchers, speculators, now
spirit ofyour new troops of the line." swarmed everywhere. I counted thirty
The old veteran had mistaken the simple men grouped in the Avenue de .St. Cloud,
National Guards, citizens, doing their every one of whom was more than six
duty, actuated by patriotism and despair, feet two inches in height, and sturdy in
for regulars. proportion. One morning an officer six
The war and the siege of Paris were feet seven strolled down the Rue de la
coming to an end together. The defeat Paroisse, and some naughty French boys
cried out, " Lower the curtains in the who scarcely merited the name, so
liers,
second-story windows." awkward were they on their horses, gal-

The 24th of January was one of those loped recklessly, hearing orders. Up and
strange days which sometimes come to down the Uois de Boulogne constantly
Northern France in the early days of the went the patrols, as often arresting an
year. The air was as soft and perfumed innocent baker or candlestick-maker as
as that «if spring; in every forest, alley, a German spy when spies were not rare.
and garden there was hint of coining On a tree a singular notice was posted:
verdure. In the bombardment there was "Instructions for avoiding shell-lire;"
a hill not a single gun was heard solemnly
; pencil-mark by a mischievous Parisian
booming. Fancy overcame me potent ; under it.:" Last and best instruction, get
is her sway; and as walked by the I out of range."
great pond I seemed to lose Versailles, Why could uotonego down the deserted
invaders, and the conquered population, avenue at the southern end of the wood?
and my thoughts were with the defenders Because the town of Boulogne was burn-
of the massive fortress city, so near and ing and the Prussians were constantly
yet so far away. Presto! As with the sending shell into the edge of the forest,
magic carpet of the Arabian tale, I and children offered splinters of the
was transported faster than balloons, death engines for sale, saying, " These
pigeons, or lovers' wishes could go. are smaller than those of yesterday. The
Now I was at Suresnes, where thou- Prussians are exhausting themselves."
sands of blue-bloused workmen were still Now came the soldier detailed to bring
toiling on the fortifications, as if they newspapers from the city to the sub-
fancied that theGermans were deter- urbs, the diminutive sheets -printed on
mined upon an assault now ; in the straw paper, clamoring for the removal of
magnificent drives of the Boulogne forest, Trochu, claiming victory in an obscure
where pale and grim old women were cut- part of France, and bestowing a slight
ting boughs from the trees which had been scratch upon Gambetta ; local news ; mor-
felled by order of the military engineers. tality of infants ; distressing and terrible
Half way up tin' slope of the Valerien suffering among poor women ; riot in cer-
acclivity I could see the glitter of the gay tain disreputable quarters; attempt to
uniforms of soldiers, two and two, and traduce a Jille publique before a court-
four and four, carrying bodies and martial by her sisters, because she had
digging the graves, planting the seed been into the Prussian lines and safely
which the fallen oak of the Empire had out again ; decree of the military gov-
scattered. 1 noticed that the dense foliage ernor condemning disorders ; horrible
on the Seine banks was gone, that the penalties; regiments of Mobiles, fat,
bridges were wrecks, the villages ruins, lean, ragged, and spruce, marching with
the hillsides of St. Cloud, of Bellevue, of discontented air to Valerien ; twenty or
Meudon, scarred and seamed by war. thirty richly dressed gentlemen with arms
Uncouth-looking peasants, ill at ease in inlaid with silver and trappings of horses
their uniform, and speaking dialects which superb in decoration. These were the
I could not understand, jostled civilians, counts and barons organized as eclaireurs,
and mistrusted everybody. On their and doing good service for France.
rude tunics were the names of towns and Did dream these things, or did they
I
cities of which I had never heard. Cava- come from the hundred rumors and
;
EUROPE TN STORltf AND CALM. 373
reports of German soldiers, who had French prisoners brought in thought that
been at the front, and who were fond of their sharp-shooterswere destroying the
nothing so much as of gossiping about whole Prussian army; German sharp-
what, was going on within the French shooters, on their side, boasted of the
lines? many victims they had made. In the
The bombardment of St. Denis was German batteries gun carriages began
well under way. Since the sortie of to give way, from the severe strain upon
the 21st the Germans had been pouring them.
shot into the town, and many fires had And now it was announced as certain
been noticed Frenchmen came
there. that M. Jules Favre had reached Ver-
into Versailles with rumors that the sailles ; that a carriage had been sent to
Cathedral was destroyed. But no only ! the river at Serres to meet him ; that In-
a few shells had touched it. The grand had eagerly read the official journal of
old Latin cross into whose form the that evening, in which was Bismarck's
church was built was still unharmed, circular enumerating the number of times
and the tomb of the kings seemed which the French had broken the rules
charmed against the enemy's shells. of the Geneva Convention, besides the
The houses and public edifices all intelligence that St. Denis was still
around it were in ruins ; huge timber- burning. For the first time he had the
yards, ignited by an exploding bomb, particulars of Faidherbe's defeat, of
sent up such a glare and smoke that the peasants retreating from Cam-
many were persuaded that Paris was in brai and the surrounding country. I
flames. The fort got shells poured into was fortunate enough to see M. Favre.
it every second ; they rolled together He looked old, and worn, and weary,
over its walls ; they exploded upon one and as if he had had but little to
another ; they seemed to struggle for eat. That which most truly distressed
place above the bastion ; still St. Denis M. Favre was his complete ignorance of
held out bravely, answering in deep base the situation of the army of the east
its defiance of the loudest German guns. when he went first to see Count Von
On the 22d the fire from the brother Bismarck. He knew of the disasters to
forts near St. Denis suddenly ceased General Chanzy, and, as we have seen,
then St. Denis himself missed his accus- read of the troubles which had befallen
tomed round. This strange quiet un- Faidherbe ; but he had not heard a word
nerved the Germans, who could scarcely of Bourbaki. He knew only of that
sleep without the thunders to which they general's march towards Montbeliard,
had so long been accustomed. On the which had been so brilliantly begun,
southern side Issy's gigantic battered and that General Von Werder had evac-
hulk was still supporting the German uated Dijon, Gray, and Vesoul before
fire ; but the embrasures were closed, and Bourbaki's advance. But he did not
the guns were said to have been removed know that, on the very day that he was
to Paris ramparts.
the The French pleading for an armistice. Bourbaki in
marines, said the Germans, were now to despair had attempted to take his own
man the wall guns. Fort Vanves was life, and that the Prussian division
in a dreadful condition, more damaged, marching upon Dijon had blocked Gari-
if possible, than Issy. Now we heard a baldi's way.
brisk shooting from German rifle pits. When M. Favre asked Bismarck for
.374 EUROPE J.Y STORM AND CALM.
news he said that ho had had none for moved. " As I have the misfortune to
several days : the wires were all down in represent conquered Paris, I could not
the greater pent of the country, and com- solicit -a favor; hut 1 accept with much
munications, lie said, were slow and heartiness now that you offer, it is the
uncertain. But, despite the apparent (list, consolation have had

I in our
insufficiency of his information, Bis- troubles. It was insupportable to me to
marck was very anxious that Belfort think that blood should be shed in vain,
si !d be surrendered. It would be as while we are arranging the conditions for
well, lie said. In give it up, for it could a suspension of hostilities."
not hold out, for more than a week '•Very well," said Bismarck, "it is
longer. M. Favre could not consent to understood that we shall give reciprocal
such a concession. Bismarck refused to orders to have the firing cease at mid-
comprise Belfort in the armistice, and night, lie good enough to see that your
poor M. Favre's anxiety was very great, orders are strictly executed."
for he fancied that the army of the east M. Favre promised, stipulating only
might be victorious, and raise the siege that tin' French should be allowed to tire
of Belfort, and to l>e asked to give it up the last shot.
in such a juncture or to relinquish the •• It was nine o'clock," he wrote in his
(•.inclusion of an armistice, which was official account, -'when crossed the I
was a dreadful alternative.

vital to Paris, Seine at the bridge of Sevres. The con-
" Very well." said Bismarck, " then put flagration in St. Cloud was still in prog-
off the signing of the armistice until ress. Probably not having been warned
after this fate of Belfort is decided." of our arrival, our artillery-men at
M. Favre hardly knew what to say to "Point du Jour were raining shells in our
this, for he said. " I was constantly neighborhood. Two or three missiles
pursued by the terrible fear that I should fellon the hank just as we left it. It
not have the necessary linn for revict- would have been odd enough if one
ualling Paris." of them had taken a notion to inter-
On the evening of the 26th of January rupt my mission. As soon as I reached
M. Favre had a lone conference with Paris I hastened to General Vinoy. I
General Von Moltke. After arranging drew up the order agreed upon, accom-
the principal details of an armistice with panying it witli the most precise instruc-
Bismarck, and after he had reached the tions. At the moment that I was writ-
point at which the signing of the con- ing an officer on duty received a tele-
it
vention seemed only a matter of form, gram from the commander of the Fori
lie came hack to Bismarck, and had a de la Conr Xeuve. This was to ask
final conversation with him. The great and expressed lively
for reinforcements,
Chancellor accompanied him to his car- fears for of the enemy's
the results
and
riage, said, with something like lively bombardment on the morrow. I give '
sympathy in his tones, as he was taking you here,' I said to the officer, who
leave M. Favre, "I scarcely think
of brought me this news, something '
that, at point which we have now

the which will shelter this brave garrison.
reached, a rupture is possible. If you Our soldiers have done their duty to the
consent, we will stop the tiring this even- very end. We owe them as much grati-
ing." " —should have asked you to do
I tude as if they were victorious.'
it yesterday." answeredM. Favre, deeply
• At a quarter of an hour before mid-
night I stood on the stone balcony at lew hours ; that the troops would remain
the Ministry of Foreign Affairs overlook- in Paris among the citizens; the officers
ing (lie Seine. The artillery of our forts would keep their swords; and that the
and that of the German army were still Government felt that it could show that
crashing on. Twelve o'clock sounded. ithad held out just as long as there was
There was a last explosion repeated far food enough left to allow of the revietual-
offby an echo, which died slowly away. ling of the fortress without subjecting
Then silem-e settled over all. It was two million men, women, and children to
the first repose for many long weeks. It the tortures of famine. " The siege of
was the first symptom of peace since the Paris." said this proclamation, •has
beginning of the senseless war into which lasted fourmonths and twelve days ; the
we had been forced by the infatuation of bombardment, a whole month. Since the
a despot and the criminal servility of Ins Loth of January the ration of bread has
courtiers. I stood for a long time lost been reduced to three hundred grammes.
in in v reflections. I believed that the The ration of horse-flesh since the 15th of
massacres had ceased ; and, in spite of December has been but thirty grammes.
the sorrow which weighed me down, this The mortality has more than trebled;
thought was a kind of relief. I did not but in the midst of so many disasters
foresee that behind this bloody curtain there has not been a single clay of dis-
now lowered upon our disasters were couragement. The enemy is the first
concealed still more lamentable calami- to render tribute to the moral energy
ties and humiliations." and the courage that the whole Pari-
The armistice was signed a neutral : sian population has shown. Paris has
zone was established between the two suffered greatly, but the Republic will
armies, and the siege of Paris was prac- profit by its lone- sufferings, so nobly
tically at an end. The proclamation of borne. We go forth from the struggle
the Government of National Defense, which has just ended ready for the
which was posted on the walls of Paris struggle which is to come We go forth
on the 28th of January, announced that with all our honor, with all our hopes,
the National Guard would preserve its despite the anguish of the present hour,
organization ami itsweapons; that the more than ever confident in the high
resistance of Paris would be closed iu a destinies of the country."
;;,(. EUROPh IA STORM AND CALM.
( 11APTKR FORTY.
Personal Reminiscences of the Close of the Siege. — The "Neutral Zone." —'Wonders and Comicali-
ties. —
Through the Park at St. Cloud. The — Crown Prince's Redoubt.— Starving Parisians. -
The Hungry Faces. —A Hundred People following a Hare.
npiIK Parisians liad succeeded by ae- von must persist, we must be brought to
-L cording the capitulation of Paris, the a stop at once'
occupation of the forts, the tacit agree- •• for my es-
The Chancellor asked me
ment to the payment of a vast military timate, but my decision until
I reserved
contribution by the capital, and the ful- after a conference with my colleagues.
filment of other conditions as bitter, as They fixed the maximum at five hundred
humiliating, in securing an armistice of millions. I then proposed one hundred,
twenty-one days. Apropos of the con- and closed the matter at two hundred
tribute which the Prussians proposed
ii millions. The Chancellor wished us to
to levy, Bismarck and Jules Favre had add to it three hundred millions, to be
quite a spirited discussion. The Chan- charged to the war indemnity. That •
cellor had. from the first, said that he will make it.' he said. round num- •
should exact the payment of a war con- bers.'
tribution, but he had not stated what its had no difficulty in making him
••
i
amount was likely to be. So a day or understand that we could treat only in
two before the negotiations were closed, the name- of Paris, and that it was for-
M. Favre raised the subject, when the bidden to us to prejudge the question
Chancellor's face, says the French states- of peace or war. expressly reserved for
mi n. took on an indefinable expression. national decision."
"The city of Paris," said Bismarck, Paris, that could pay an indemnity of
"is too powerful and too rich for an two hundred millions of francs without
instant to permit that its ransom should other effort than the stroke of the pen,
not be worthy of it. It seems to me could not find, for the first few days
that it would be scarcely proper to ask after the capitulation, bread enough for
for less than a milliard." it- children. There were two or three
• •
This is certainly only an ironical davs of cruel waiting, when it seemed
eulogv.' 1 answered, -and 1 shall re- almost cert iin that the Germans would
frain from considering it as serious.' be chargeable with the grave fault of

••
But it is quite serious," replied the having caused a famine among the be-
Chancellor, "and entirely in proportion sieged French. The splendid charity of
with those that the other cities have paid London and tremendous efforts made
the
us." in the north of France saved the situa-

•• •
I should not like,' T said. to tion. No sooner was the armistice
break off the negotiations for a simple signed than Jules Favre telegraphed to
question of money; but there are exac- London. Antwerp, and Dieppe to have
tions which render nothing possible. provisions sent in with the greatest celer-
This is of the number; and, if you think ity. Ai i the tei ins of the new
EUROPE I.V STORM AND CALM. .".77
treaty, these provisions could not enter men had been held at the Mansion
Paris until after had been
the forts House, and that an appeal had been
delivered to the Germans, and the walls made to the sympathy manifest in all
of the garrison of the capital had been parts of the country for unfortunate
disarmed. Jules Favre and his col- France. A first subscription of 250,000
leagues foresaw that, unless this were francs hail been placed at the disposition
modified, the provisions, which were of the English committee, and it was
now pouring forward on all the railways. hoped that the sum raised by voluntary
would accumulate at a distance of a few contributions would reach 2,000,000 of
miles from the starving millions, and francs. This was but a trifle for a
would there be forced to remain while capital which had just agreed to pay out
the Germans were slowly taking their 200,0O().l)ll() as ransom; but it gave the
precautions. His mind was filled with stricken people courage, and they seemed
dreadful visions of mobs of men and once more to breathe freely.
women howling for bread, of new mani- The neutral zone between the French
festations of the communal insurrection, and German lines, and extending all the
prompted by the pangs of hunger; and way around Paris, was one of the curiosi-
he went straight to Bismarck and told ties of the siege. This was a strip of
him the truth. territory, ingress to which was forbidden
The Chancellor was not only startled, either to French or German troops until
he was deeply moved. He promised the close of the deliberations of the na-
that he would have the u hole matter tional assembly, which was to decide on
changed forthwith, and that there need peace or war. On either side of this zone
be no fear that the military operations swarmed the lately contesting soldiery.
would preventthe transportation of food. and the Germans had seized upon the
He even offered to the French all the opportunity to indulge in their passion for
rations that the German army could military pomp, and perhaps, I may say to
spare. This surplus supply of the Ger- air their military vanity. Their officers
mans was sufficient to nourish the popu- went on duty arrayed as if for a prome-
lation of Paris for a day and a half. M. nade at a court, or in a ball-room. They
Favre accepted it. The two men parted wore their gala uniforms, their best boots,
greatly touched by the mutual conces- their most shining spurs and immaculate
sions of pride and of dignity to which white gloves. The Prussian officer thus
their charitable aim had compelled them. impressed one as a superior kind of
Hut it was not until the afternoon of policeman, a police sergeant, if you will,
the 4th of February that the first train who was doing duty away from home and
which had entered the Paris fortifications who wished to impress the foreign eye
since the 17th of September rolled into with the sense of his national dignity.
tin' Northern railway station. This was On themorning after the occupation
the train filled with provisions which the of the forts I found some German sol-
population of London had contributed diers at a point between St. Cloud and
for the relief of Paris. The same train Sevres doing what they called playing at
brought a. letter from the Lord Mayor of French Republicans, having made tliem-
the English metropolis, saying that, at se]\ es grotesque uniforms outof some red
the first news of the nrmistice, a meeting curtains which they had found. A large
of hankers, commercial men, and work- collection of ladies and gentlemen on the
378 EI'UOPK f.V STORM AND CALM
other side <>f the river was looking at Prussians took their ground here step by
them through field-glasses and audibly step at imminent risk, and purchased it
expressing its disgust. The Prussian at the expense of hundreds of lives. An

sentinel on one pier <>t' the ruined bridge officer told me, with tears in his eyes, that
of Sevres, and the French sentinel on what he had lost many brother officers there.
was I'll of the other side of the bridge, The besiegers seemed lo have found the
presented, as they glared at each other Seine gun-boats more troublesome than
across the deep stream, rather a comical even the Parisians trusted that they might,
as] t. A few Germans were digging prove. Lying close to the water's edge,
rifle-pits, with a view to possible future and possessing the wondrous faculty of
emergencies. " making themselves scarce," they were
On a high hill between St. Cloud and very effective instruments of offense.
Sevres stood one of the most famous of They came down towards Billancourt
Prussian batteries, a place where, for two with the 1
speed of a railway train, and,
weeks before the capitulation, men were before the out-look on the redoubt could
obliged to lay perdu half the time, ex- cry '•
bombe" they threw their deadly
pecting destruction every moment when missiles, the man at the helm wheeled
they showed their heads and while they around, ami away they went, leaving sor-
were cannon at the enemy.
tiring their row among (heir enemies.
The Prussians all spoke with awe after the Climbing up the mighty zigzag path
siege of the fearful fire of the forts upon leading into the redoubt found on
I
ibis redoubt. It. required some little the way great heaps of shells and great
philosophy to go and out of this ex-
in pieces of iron, some of them msty
temporized fortification under fire, and with blood. At the top of the hill stood
the few times that I attempted it gave a collection of charming houses, once fur-
me n lively impression of the horrors of a nished with the greatest taste, but then
bombardment. Four German officers, forever ruined. Near by was a. bomb-
who were the first into this Crown proof sunk several feel into the ground.
Prince's Redoubt, as it was called, gave and thence the officers issued their orders.
me an animated description of the terrors In the principal house one long, elegant
of the initial day of the occupation. parlor, which had evidently belonged to
" Shells every moment," said one officer ; a literary man, was filled with beds,
"and when we fancied that the forts where the tired men had thrown them-
would give us an instant's respite, then selves, regardless of danger, to sleep.
came the fearful screeching of the gre- The walls were decorated with figures of
nades from the gun-boats on the Seine. Turcos and Zouaves running before the
When a parlementaire came out from Prussians, and a huge cartoon repre-
either side we felt like men who had sented Napoleon handing his 8 word to
been pardoned after sentence of execu- King William. The floor of this room
tion." The French
thrown up the hail was littered with fine engravings, books
redoubt at the beginning of the alarm of value, and tapestries torn from the
about the capital's safety, and had in- walls. >n one side was a breakfast-
<
tended to arm it, but had not succeeded table smashed, with coffee-cups and
when they were dislodged. Even had they glasses in confusion beneath it. A
put guns into position in it the enemy hole in the wall and some grenade
would have had it sooner or later. The fragments close by explained the inter-
rupted breakfast. On the door of an out- 1'aris, where they had hastily taken
house, which served as a guard-room, was refuge, to their homes. There were
written a German distich :
— strong men, and weak old patriots bent
and shrivelled, housewives and buxom
" How happy is he whom no cry can call out young peasant girls with babes at their
"
in take liis nightturn on the deadly redoubt ! breasts. All had packs of household
gear upon their backs, and their faces
The dead seemed indeed much more bore marks of prolonged suffering and
fortunate than the living, in this dreadful privation. Many of these simple people
spot. Days and nights were constantly went mad during the siege the horrors :
full of horror and sorrow. The Germans of the protracted bombardment, the in-
had one consolation, — they had enough credible hardships which they were called
to eat. The drivers of the supply-carts upon to suffer after lives of peace and
ran imminent risk in bringing the food in plenty, turned their heads.
every evening, and sometimes a shell The inhabitants of Ville d'Avray re-
sent the sheep newly killed and the great turned to Mud their houses a camp or a
rounds of black-bread flying into air. stable. The hundreds of charming little
The walls of the redoubt and the deep white stone villas — with their outlooks
trenches covered by boughs and logs, on the lovely valley where Gambetta, at
lending away
in every direction, were what all men thought was merely a pause
battered pounded as by a giant's
and in his great career, came to purchase a
hammer. Great rows of sand-bags were tranquil nook in had
which to repose —
piled high in the earth-works' top, and windows broken, and walls smashed by
acres on acres of tree trunks, sawn has- shells. The cellars were converted dur-
tily in the neighboring parks, were placed ing the siege into lodgings for the olti-
along the hill at right angles. cers, physicians, and wounded. In many
In the highest corner, where one could of these extemporized barracks one
look one hundred feet down over the wall, found interesting testimony to the intelli-
hung a flag-pole, on which a sheet was gence ami decent feeling of the invaders.
run out whenever hostilities were sus- Triflessupposed to have value from as-
pended, so that a parlementaire might sociation had been bestowed in sate
come across the river. At the mark of places; carpets had been hidden away to
the outer line of works stood a rustic save them from being made into breeches
arbor, with a round window, in which a for the outposts ; and in many places pi-
telescope was placed, and where watch- anos had been safely stored. The ceilings
men and day, to gaze by light
sat, night had been torn out, and rebuilt, with ma-
and listen by dark. Although this was terials calculated to resist shell-fire : and
the most exposed position in the redoubt thus the rooms had mainly been ruined.
not a shell appeared to have touched it. The French assert that the Germans had
It was interesting at the close of the a passion for clocks, and generally
siege to visit Ville d'Avray and St. carried them off; but that they took
Cloud, where the ravages of war had frequent measures to save property
been so great. On this same day of the which they might have taken or spoiled,
occupation of the forts I made this excur- is quite true.
sion and noted the swarms of French peas-
, All the way from Versailles gate to the
ants hurrying back from the villages nearer entrance of St. Cloud Dark the noblest
trees had been felled to bar the way in in with sportive verses on Moltke's
ease of a prolonged success, such as that genius, or plaintive couplets detailing
of Montretout might have been. Vines hardship; the branches were also traced
and fences were utilized in interlacing with comical reminiscences of the fall-
the labyrinth, until it seemed as if hardly en Empire ; and the palings

the hedges
a weasel might cross the track comfort- showed dreadful gaps trees were shorn ;
ably. This, with a barricade at every of their branches, showing how persist-
angle in tiie highways, and batteries on the ently Valerien had tried to make the
heights around the position, would have still more persistent enemy unmask him-
been tenable perhaps for days against a self. If the straw strewn by the hedge
vigorous assault. It took weeks after the could have spoken itwould have had its
siege to disencumber the tields. Enter- scalp to mourn ; the satyr had lost his
ing the park by the great avenue leading horns, the lion his tail. The live
to the palace, I found to my left, as 1 great avenues radiating through the

came German cemetery, where the
in, a park from the monumental observatory,
dozens of soldiers struck down on duty called the " Diogenes Lantern," were
during the bombardment were buried. scarcely recognizable. The frozen ruts
Before reaching the several roads which were deep enough to lie down in.
led through the park to Sevres and Men- Away below thesaw a dense
hill I
don. arrived at a redoubt, where

I sen- :i smoke slowly rising. It came from St..
tinel halted me, and turned me to the Cloud, burning for the last eight days. At
right, —
probably from habit rather than the palaces the evidences of ruin were
necessity. I had time however to obsen e even greater. Superb chairs, on which
the famous redoubt which the Jagers the grandees of Europe had reposed,
held so valiantly, and whose solid semi- lay scattered upon the <il>utis, every trace
circle of earth and stone, with the queerly of their brilliant coloring washed from the
contrived loop-holes for observations, in- upholstery by the rains and snows. In a
terested me even more than ilid the huge glade near the chdtecm were long rows
guns, marked " Spandau, 1868," ranged of wooden palings, garnished fantasti-
in rows in the trenches below. cally with broken ornaments of floor and
I entered a long trench, sheltered art- ceiling from the palace. The circular
fully from the missiles of death by a park, with its gorgeous orange trees and
door made of woven green boughs, tasteful statues, was as filthy as a barn-
evidently the work of hands impelled by yard. Nearly every statue was scarred,
memories of Christmas- tide, and perhaps seared, blackened. The palace was a
by the old burden, — shapeless m:\ss of stone, seamed with the
comet-like tracks of shells. One could
"(> Christmas-tree, Christmas-tree, how scarcely walk across the floors inside.
"
faithful are thy branches !
They were heaped ten feet high, with
great pieces of the roof, with torn anil
Farther on 1 found sentry-boxes disjointed gildings. The lower halls
made out of wardrobes, taken bodily were occupied by dozens of soldiers, and
from the villas of the neighboring hundreds were swarming al t the
towns. Here and there was a superb environs, picking up bits of shell and
mahogany armoire, ruined by weather stone as mementos.
and soldiers' wear, marked outside and A few steps to the right brought one
to the valley, where the beautiful lake from the ruined houses. The town in
was once surrounded with sylvan statues. its garment of slow (ire offered a pictu-
Scarcely one remained standing. From resque spectacle.
the terrace, at the Seine front of the The French authorities had expressed
chdteau, cine could judge even more their desire that during the armistice no
accurately of the ruin. The devastation strangers should enter Paris unless they
of the invasion of 1815 is still remem- had pressing reason therefor. But to
bered with horror in France ; but this those of us whose sympathies were with
had been more Then, as now,
terrible. Paris, and whose anxieties for the fate
foreign had wandered in the
soldiery of hundreds of friends within the walls
gardens. The books of the library, in were daily growing greater, this ex-
1815-, were trampled into the earth, and pression of the authorities had but little
the walls were disfigured. But n^w one weight. Application at the Prussian
could not find a book or trace the outlines head-quarters for passes over neutral
of a picture, nor yet distinguish the ground were refused, on the plea that
salon of Mars from that of Apollo. they would displease the French. Daily
Elegant architectural nooks were all visits were regularly, however, made by
crushed out of shape, battered into the French residents at Versailles.
oblivion. Women and children escaped between the
Groups of officers on the terrace were bayonets of the sentinels and ran away
scanning the French bank of the Seine to the surrounding villages, in the hope
through their field-glasses and drinking of procuring food or of hearing news of
wine out of bottles of which they had friends. In all that strip of country
unearthed a good store that morning. from St. Denis, Sarcelles, Ecouen, Vil-
High above the hill, where the church leneuve-le-Bel, Gonesse, etc., the most
spire of St. Cloud stood uninjured frightful destitution now prevailed.
amid the almost universal ruin, villas Bread was not to be obtained for any
were smouldering. Descending into the money. Many of the inhabitants who
town I found that a superb conservatory returned in haste from Paris to their
had been utilized as a stable, and that homes lived on rotten cabbages, which
many residences had shared the same lay about the fields and when one found
;
fate. The great alley which runs a frozen carrot or potato he esteemed
through the town from the lower park, himself fortunate. From Versailles I went
bordered on either side by booths whose through St. Germain, thence to Epinai
owners had not had time to open them and St. Denis, and so on to Ecouen, for
for the annual fair in 1870, was crowded the express purpose of studying the
with soldiers curiously examining the condition of the people after the occupa-
toys and bonbon boxes in the booths. tion of the forts. I bent my course over
One soldier took a child's drum from a the desolate country to Argenteuil, by
booth and hung it about his neck. A the lower road, which had been so dan-
sergeant stepped forward: "Fool, put gerous on the occasion of our last jour-
down that silly thing Do you want ! ney around Paris. No sentinel barred
five days in the guard house? " The ex- the way. The birds were singing in all
plorations were consequently stopped, the trees as I passed, and the soldiers,
and the explorers went to warm them- beating back the clamorous bread-de-
selves around fires made of beams taken manding crowds at Argenteuil, simply
382 EUROPE IX STORM AND CADI.
asked me my nationality and let me new lesson concerning the honors of

pass. war.
I found the railway bridge broken into Epinai seemed visited by the veu-
fragments, tin- rails bent and thrown geance of God. Itwas a small town
across the track, wine and ice cellars for a suburban one and from its
;
along the road converted into bomb- boundaries one could sec the grinning
proofs. Atmany a well-
Argenteuil guns of Forts La Breche and the Double
dressed person addressed me in terms Crown. The Prussian commanders had
which almost commanded tears, begging ordered an inundation of the roads in the
for a morsel of food if I had it. Alas ! I neighborhood some time before; and it
was as badly provided as most of the sup- was partially successful. The routes
plicants. Old women .solicited alms as towards Paris therefore resembled small
they sank by the wayside, overcome; rivers. There remained hardly a house
little children, thin and pale, cried in Epinai untouched by shot or shell.
bitterly as their parents dragged them Barricades were still standing in a hun-
wearily onward. Sometimes I met died places. saw a bulwark twenty-
I
carts driven by soldiers who had been four feet lone, entirely made out of fur-
sent out to forage, and was clad to see niture, —
rich chairs, tables, and sofas
that in many cases the sturdy driver and piled up in confusion, and carpets
his guard had dismounted to give stopping up the chinks.
fainting women and children a ride on From one of the half-ruined forts a
the straw. In this case the conquerors long procession of German cavalry in
had obtained their apotheosis. The fatigue was slowly winding,

uniforms
good old words, which could have been and a few trumpets were sounding in the
so fittingly applied to these soldiers, distance. As I turned from the neigh-
came into my mind: '-lie drinketh no borhood of St. Denis to move to Feouen,
blood, but thirstetli after honor. He is I came upon endless lines of starving
greedy of victory, but never satisfied Parisians, hastening out to buy, bee-, or
with mercy. In fight terrible as be- borrow food; and I saw a spectacle
Cometh a captain; in conquest mild as which I shall never see again, and which
bcseeineth a king." struck me with astonishment: —
From Argenteuil forward to Epinai, A man of humble appearance had
near St. Denis, 1 (-(instantly met long caught a hare escaping through a hedge,
lines of carts laden with household had knocked it on the head, and with an
goods of returning refugees. The most air of supreme content was moving
affecting sight was the hundreds of bare- briskly along the road in the same di-
headed women scrambling in the field rection which I was taking. Behind
for frozen vegetables and the lines of him followed at least one hundred l'ari-
half-svmpathetic soldiers off duty look- sians, all with their eyes fixed with an
ing curiously on. Near here I met the expression of intense longing upon this
Crown Prince of Saxony, attended by a unhappy hare, hanging limp and lifeless
superb cavalry guard, galloping away from its captor's back. There were
from head-quarters at Margency. But, people in that hundred who would have
as gazed on the singular scene, his
lie knocked the lucky possessor of the little
handsome young face glowed with sym- animal on the head had each not been
pathy, and I felt that he had learned a. restrained by the presence of the other.
I have not the slightest desire, .ifter the hunger and thirst. The wolfishness of
lapse of many years, to exaggerate an the gaze, the stealthiness of the tread,
impression which was at the time and the inexpressible longing on all
intensely powerful; but I felt then, as I those people's faces were at once fasci-
feel now, that I was looking upon men nating and repulsive. Nothing could
and women actuated by the same almost give, better than this little incident, an
uncontrollable murderous impulse that idea of the extremities of suffering' and
human beings feel slowly overpowering privation to which the populace of Paris
them when they are drifting together at had been driven by the siege.
sea in an open boat, suffering from
;
CHAPTER FORTY-ONE.
A Great Historic Occasion. — The Assembly at Bordeaux. — Thiers in His New Rule. -A Political
Tragedy in the Theatre de laC :die. -The Protest of the Alsatians. TheFinal Impeachment —
of the Empire. — A Strange Scene -- Louis Blanc, Victor Hugo, and the other Exiles. —The Vote
for Peace. A Stern Renunciation. -The Mayor of Strasbourg Dies of a Broken Heart.
Bordeaux we seemed be ties and private citizens, and

IN another country, not if
to
in another
in
strangers alike
soldiers,
were forced to have,
world, after the excitement of the elec- were elaborate documents, printed in
tions in Paris. The constant quarrels French and German, and decorated with
of the various political factions, which numerous stamps. They described ac-
were beginning to exercise their hostility curately the appearance, profession,
now that the siege had ended, and the and object of the journey of the person
increasing misery on every hand, had to whom they were issued. When the
not seemed abnormal we got out
until train had crossed the neutral lines and
of the lines of the war, and came to the arrived on Prussian ground at Vitry, a
compact and picturesque southern city, white-gloved and elegantly uniformed
where till the natives were clamorous for Hessian officer came to collect the
the continuation of the struggle. Peo- passes ; and while they were rigidly in-
ple who came out of the anguish and spected the train waited tin hour. It
turmoil could not refrain from reminding was somewhat amusing to observe the
the southern populations that they would conceit of the Germans who came and
not be so anxious for war if they had ranged themselves along the platform,
seen :i little more of it. But these crit- evidently that the French notables might
ics were set aside as fritters. Had not observe their uniforms. The Parisians,
Gambetta resigned his high office, however, were fully equal to the occa-
although it must have required much sion, and when they saw anything worth
self-denial to do so. when he heard a praising in the German military scheme,
hint of the negotiations for peace? Was they freely praised it. Rut they were
there not strength enough in the great quite as free in their adverse criticisms.
south, with its vast resources and its It was only when they saw a ruined
sturdy people, for the organization of a house or broken bridge that they mut-
new defence, which should oppose a tered against the " Prussian vermin."
linn resistance to the Prussian armies? At Fort d'lvry we saw a Prussian
So let the Assembly meet and let it part column, several battalions strong, wind-
but let it not dare to hint at Prussian ing its way among throngs of French-
desires, or, most especially, at cession of men who had evidently come home to
territory. see what was left out of the general
It took thirty hours to get from Paris ruin. At Choisy-le-Roi, there were the
to Bordeaux, a journey usually accom- same sad-faced people searching for the
plished in twelve hours. The permits remnants of their properties. Here
to leave the Qapital, permits which depu- homes were completely ruined ;
walls
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. MS.-)
were toppled over, streets encumbered our way through Angers, Pithouviers,
with rubbish, fragments of shell and and numerous other towns around which
shot. The great bridge lay in the bed there had been famous battles, we had
of the Seine, forming a kind of dam, seen the Prussians in great force, but
over which the usually tranquil water had seen few native inhabitants of the
was foaming. unlucky villages and cities. Here and
As we moved away from Choisy-le- there a Prussian in fatigue uniform
Roi, we saw another Prussian column wore a French cap, which he had picked
moving in, the men's uniforms covered up on a battle-field. In some of the
with dirt, and the officers shouting at French railway stations, which had been
the laggards. The peasants at each fortified, French workmen were engaged
station pointed out the track of the war in taking down the stockades and level-
to the Parisians, and were listened to ling the earthworks, —

most eloquent
with great interest. " Do the Prussians protestation against the prolongation of
annoy and abuse you?" was the question hostilities. Throughout the occupied
often asked and " No, not much," was
;
country there was but one spirit manifest,
the invariable reply. —a spirit of conciliation; but where
At Vierzon we were outside the the heavy hand of the invader had not
Prussian lines, thanks to the vigorous been felt there was no doubt of the war-
action of the some days
inhabitants like determination of the people.
before the capitulation. The Prussians Bordeaux was proud of the distinction
had left only a small force there, and conferred upon it, and offered as a meet-
the Yierzonese, after having been piling place of the Assembly its beautiful
laged until they could stand it no longer, theatre, which stands in one of the many
took their hitherto concealed arms, and, handsome squares of the city. We
after much loss of life on both sides, found that at least forty thousand
drove out the invaders. The armistice strangers had flocked into Bordeaux to
intervened in time to save the town from witness the final act of the great drama.
the vengeance of the discomfited enemy. The hotels were crowded, the streets
Our train was transferred to the were filled with elegant equipages, in
branch Limoges and Pe-
line leading to which the Parisians, dressed in black,
rigueux, and towards daylight arrived at the color of their despair, were con-
the latter town, where we found thou- stantly parading. Hundreds of soldiers
sands of Mobiles going in all directions, wandered to and fro, many of them,
taking up positions to meet the enemy in I suspect, never getting to the regiments
case the new Assembly should declare which were awaiting them. Every day
for a continuance of the war. Here a detachments of awkward-looking youth,
train filled with deputies, among whom with new guns in their big hands, went
were Roehefort in a Garibaldian red through the principal streets, with un-
shirt, Schoelcher, and others of the Rad- practised drummers at their head ; ami.
ical Paris delegation, was joined to ours. on the principal square, lone lines of
When we reached Bordeaux that after- boys, at morning, noon, and night, were
noon we found that the Red Party had going through military drill under the
prepared a formidable demonstration for guidance of gruff and red-nosed old ser-
the arrival of its leaders: and this was geants. <same square stood three
)n this
a gloomy indication for the future. On hundred cannon, which had but recently
arrived from America and in the great : On the 13th tlie curtain rose on the
shining moored numerous
river were first session in the great theatre. An
ships, said to contain ample store of aged ex-deputy of the old Republican
muskets and other weapons from the Assembly was called to the chair. At his
same sympathetic country beyond the sea. right sat the Moderates and the Royal-
No National Assembly had been held ists in very great numbers, conspicuous
in France since 1849, and, as the actual among them being M. Thiers and the
machinery and reports and electoral Duke Decazes. On the left, calm and
commissions had to be conducted with passionless, sat M. Jules Favre, bowed
the greatest care, it was not strange that down by work and grief, and evidently
the great body of representatives accom- anxious to escape particular notice.
plished little before the middle of Febru- Next in order to him were Jules Simon,
ary. Postal communications were sus- Emmanuel Arago, Pelletan, rlais-Bizoin, <
pended in forty-three departments of Gamier-Pages, the temporary minister

France ; and, although Count Von Bis- of marine, and the stiff and decorous
marck had expressed his desire that the General Le F16, Minister of War.
elections should be conducted without Gambetta, who after his resignation
the slightest interference from the Ger- from the government of National De-
mans, it was well known that all letters fense had been chosen as their delegate
and telegrams from the French govern- by the people of no less than tell depart-
ment to its prefects and other local func- ments, was not present on this occasion ;
tionaries were opened and carefully read but the thin audience of diplomats,
by the Germans. A week after the ladies, and the favored journalists who
convocations not more than half the had obtained tickets, was continually
deputies had succeeded in reaching Bor- asking for him. The story of his organ-
deaux and tin fifteen committees into
;
1
ization of the defense had set the seal
which the seven hundred and fifty-three upon his renown, which was now dis-
members were usually divided were in a tinctly great.
very incomplete state. The President Garibaldi hobbled in early in the after-
was even obliged announce that twen-

to noon, and sat on bench remote from
a.
ty-five members would constitute a. full any party, an action which was misin-
committee for the first few days. Tin 1
terpreted and commented upon with the
Orleanists were said to lie working with amusing French attention to small details.
great earnestness, and, until the I'arisdel- In the diplomatic loge, Lord Lyons, the
cgation arrived, then' were rumors every Prince De Metternich, and the Chevalier
day that an Orleanist i-dh/i d'Etat might Nigra of Italy were the only noticeable
lie expected. The fifteen journals of figures. After the opening speech was
Bordeaux kept the air tilled with most finished the action of the old hero was
astonishing rumors, magnifying every seen to have its significance, for he had
trilling a danger for the
incident into sent a letter to the President's desk, say-
country. But the local National Guard ing that he renounced all claim to the
behaved most sensibly, ami organized a title of deputy, with which he had been
service, through the town and around the honored in several departments ; and he
meeting place of the Assembly, which sought later on to explain his reason for
effectually prevented riots and attempts this refusal to accept the honor offered
at l'iots. him, but the Right started a great tumult,
which almost caused .a violent encounter Republic. None who were in the theatre
between the opposing parties in the that day will forget the kindly voice, the
Assembly. The spectators in the galleries classic head crowned with the silver
shouted and shook their lists like mad hair, the eloquent, musical voice, that
men and women ; and all this for nothing told the French people the value and
at all, save that Garibaldi had tried to dignity of conscience, and declared fear-
make a speech ; that he
had resigned as deputy,
and was consequently out
of order.
At this session Jules
Favre made a plain and
straightforward speech,
in which he gave into the
hands of the representa-
tives of the people the
resignation of the gov-
ernment of National De-
fense. "We are ready,"
he said, "to answer to
you for all our acts, con-
vinced that we shall meet
in their examination only
the loyalty and justice
by which you will lie in-
spired in all your deliber-
ations." This speech of
Jules Favre made a great
sensation in Bordeaux.
To an Anglo -Saxon
nothing seemed more rea-
sonable and proper than
that the head of the
provisional government
should quietly lay his
GARIBALDI AT BORDEAUX.
powers at the people's
feet when the occasion
demanded but the mass of the
it; lesslvto them that they were beaten
suspicious and questioning southern and chastised for their sins of omissi.ni
French had imagined that there would and commission. Jules Favre counselled
be a conflict for the possession of author- the French nation to hasten its decision
ity ; that M. Jules Favre and his col- in thisAssembly and lie was wise. In a
,
leagues would object to giving iqi their day or two it was evident that M. Thiers
places, and doubtless M. Favre's correcl and the party grouped directly around
and dignified attitude increased the faith him were to have the complete control
of these southern populations in the of events at Bordeaux. The venerable
388 EUROPE /X STORM AXD CALM.
statesman had taken up his abode at the French whatever might befall them. " Eu-
H6tel de France, where he was within rope," they said in their declaration. " can
a fewminutes' walk of the Assembly, and neither permit nor ratify the desertion of
where all the leading statesmen, politi- Alsace-Lorraine by France." The clos-
cians, and generals also installed them- ing words of this document were very
selves. eloquent. "We hereby proclaim," said
M. Thiers, like all the other Repub- the signers of the declaration. " the for-
lican politicians who had conic directly ever inviolable right of the Alsatians
Germans, realized
into contact with the and the people of Lorraine to remain
that the Assembly must declare peace members of the great French family, and
rather than war and he said so pretty
; we swear both for ourselves and for those
frankly in the interviews which he whom we represent, as well as for our
accorded to the seekers aftertruth. The children and our children's children, eter-
Assembly was speedy to recognize M. nally and by every possible and practical
Thiers as its leader, and while it placed at means to insist upon this right against
its head as its working president M. Jules the usurpers." M. Keller, an eloquent
(.revv. destined afterwards to become and passionate man, was the leader of
the President of the Republic, its first this delegation, and some of his speeches,
political proposition was that M. Thiers in which he urged the country not to give
should be made chief of Executive up the provinces so firmly demanded by

Power, exercising his functions under Germany, were characterized by great
the control of the National Assembly, elevationof thought and beauty of diction.
with the advice and counsel of ministers At the close of February the country
to lie chosen and presided over by him- had become fully enlightened as to the
self. Although all parties recognized necessity of speedy peace. The capital
him as a sincere patriot, all the ad- was menaced with a huge insurrection,
vanced and radical Republicans feared and it was thought prudent to prepare for
that he would try to bring back an Oilcan - a government at Versailles but how to
;
ist. He repeatedly declared that he had return there when it was occupied by the
no Orleanist sympathies, no hostile in- conqueror? Whichever way the deputies
tentions to the newly launched Republic, turned they were confronted by this hate-
and nothing made him more indignant ful question of peace. There were as
than hints that lie was trilling' with the many opinions as men. Louis Blanc,
liberties of the people. Victor Hugo. Edgar Quinet, Rochefort,
Early in the session the deputies from Schielchcr, Gambetta, ami Henri Martin
the departments of the Lower Rhine, the historian Delescluze, with the shadow
;
the Upper Rhine, the Moselle, and the of his coining fate already on his gloomy
Meurthe presented and decla-their protest brow; Lockroy, Lane, Brisson, Edmond
ration, stating that Alsace and Lorraine Adam, Clemenceau, the great and good
did not wish to be alienated from France ; M. Littiv. Floquet, and so many others
that, associated for more than two cen- who have since taken a prominent part
turies with the French in g 1 as in evil in the conduct of their country's des-
fortune, they had always sacrificed them- tinies. — each had his scheme for steer-
selves to the national grandeur ; and that ing the nation through the breakers, and
they signified to Germany and to the no one seemed willing to yield to any
world their firm determination to remain other.
—
There were moments when a vote of Schoenhausen, the Minister of State and
peace seemed
.any distinct proposition for of Foreign Affairs of His Majesty the
impossible. King of Bavaria, the Minister of For-
M. Thiers had been elected deputy eign Affairs to His Majesty the King of
from twenty-six departments; conse- Wurtemburg, and the Minister of State
quently there was but little opposition representing His Royal Highness the
to the confirmation of his powers as chief Grand Duke of Baden :
of the executive, and in the session of "And authorizes the Chief of Executive
the 10th he presented his new cabinet, in Power and the Minister of Foreign Affairs
which Jules Favre, Jules Simon, and other to exchange preliminaries of peace, the
distinguished Republicans had prominent rcailing of which has been made in the
places. After this was dune, the Assem- National Assembly, and the authentic
bly took a recess and meantime M.
;
copy of which remains in the archives
Thiers returned to Paris, and went to of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs."
Versailles, to see what was the final will It was said that M. Thiers lost his tem-
of the invader. per during the final discussion with the
At the close of the month he returned German chancellor, and cried in a fretful
quite worn out, the railway accident on humor, " Well, take the whole of France,
the journey and the species of prostra- and make the best of it!" but soon af-
tion into which he had fallen, consequent terwards was subdued and solemn, and
on the heavy demands of the Prussians, proceeded to the serious business of the
seeming likely to cause a dangerous ill- harrowing session.
ness but the old man's fiery soul soon
; The 1st ofMarch, the day after M.
revived the wearied frame, and he had Thiers's from Versailles, was
return
been in town hardly an hour before he full of gloom. M. Thiers had asked the
was at the Assembly, talking freely with Chamber to act with all speed, reasons
the members in the committee rooms, of the greatest gravity exacting that the
and preparing his colleagues fur a vote treaty should be at once- ratified. lie
upon the final act, which had been elab- added that ••the ratification would be
orated during his absence, and which the signal for the return of our prisoners
was conceived as follows: — and the evacuation of a part of our ter-
"The Chief of Executive Power of the ritory, including Paris." This was un-
French Republic proposes to the National derstood to mean that the Prussians
Assembly the act, the tenor of which is were in Paris. The newspapers without
as under :
exception appeared with their pages in
" The National Assembly, suffering mourning; the ladies on the streets
the consequence of deeds with which it were all in black; the soldiers and offi-
had nothing to do, approves the pre- cers on duty around the theatre where
liminaries of peace, the text of which is the Assembly met wore crape upon their
annexed, ami which were signed at Ver- sleeves and on their weapons ; there
sailles, on the 2fith of February, 1871, by was no enthusiasm manifest as 51.
the Chief of Executive Power and the Thiers went to the Assembly, nor on his
Minister of Foreign Affairs of the French return.
Republic on the one hand ; On the Place ile la. Comedie there
" And on the other hand by the German was a motley crowd, which waited all
Chancellor, Count Otto Von Bismarck- through the session to hear the first
o90 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
news of the decision as to the country's and confused to find that it ushered me
destiny. The formed a hollow
soldiers into the presidential '";/<', M. Thiers
square, which kept back the masses doubtless having, with the courtesy tra-
froin the approaches to the theatre and ; ditional in legislative circles, conferred
all around them were hundreds of soldiers his best, ticket upon his sternest adver-
and officers, in great variety of uniform, sary. The great theatre was but dimly
— Francs-Tireurs, in leather leggings, lighted; but there was no doubt that the
Alpine hats, and short swords; brawny deputies were in their places, for a roar
young Mobiles, with sunburnt faces and of dispute came up from the orchestra
awkward gray coats showy gendarmes,; stalls, and the President was furiously
in blue and black, with folds of white, ringing his bell. In the loge cle la Presi-
silver cord upon their breasts, and with ilrm-t>, Madame Thiers, surrounded by
their carbines at the saddle-bows of a. little group of charming girls, was
their horses; rusty-looking liners in quietly viewing the scene, and the vari-
liattle-stained uniforms, who were much ous Radicals were pointed out to her
petted and patted on the back by enthu- and to the other guests by one of the
siastie ladies ; priests, division generals, priests of her parish church in Paris,
newspaper men, army contractors, for- whose comments on his political enemies
eigners, German spies, scores upon scores were quaint and satirical.
of men packed together, and waiting The new deputies, who liad been pre-
patienlly for the close of the historic de- vented by exceptional circumstances in
liberations. their departments from arriving at the
Trumpets rattled, and bugles brayed, first session, were now all in their
Victor Hugo, followed by a little group places; therefore the President and all
of Radical literary men, went through the the members of his bureau had been
hollow square, hearing on every side placed upon the stage. The cm tain was
whispers of admiration. No one seemed up, and displayed M. Gri'vy with his
to have the courage to speak aloud, head bowed on his desk. One might
The Alsatian deputies were respectfully almost have fancied him at prayer,
saluted. Gambetta had sent word that before he touched the bell a second time
he would come to the Assembly only and arose. He uttered but one sentence,
when the discussion on peace began, according the tribune to an Alsatian dep-
Gambetta was ill, worried, insane, said — uty, who at once began a vigorous
rumors in the crowd. — could not sleep protest in the name of those whom he
nights, wandered up and down in his represented against the giving up of the
room, gazing The
out of window. provinces whence he came. Then fol-
tremendous efforts which he had made lowed a hubbub. This called the
since September had told greatly upon painful matter too quickly to the surf ace.
him. lie was pale, his thick black We were first to hear a lengthy report on
locks were in disorder, and there was a. the peace preliminaries. Put now came
suggestive stoop in his shoulders, from other protests against the cession of Al-
whieh he never recovered. saee and Lorraine, the members standing
By g 1 fortune, and the courtesy of like Leonidas and his comrades in the
(he thief of Executive Power to M. gap.
Louis Plane, I secured a ticket for the A little way off, in a, quiet street, a
session, and was somewhat surprised man in the prime of life, and until re-
cently robust in health, lay broken in enceinte is disarmed. Farther away

spiritand dying. Every few minutes the inimical armies are massed at the
some one of the deputies sent from the extreme covered by
limits of the district,
Assembly to inquire after the brave- Ihr armistice. There they face our
hearted man, who could not hear to see disorganized armies and our population,
the disgrace of his country
and the dear old province
whence he came. The phy-
sicians said he would not live
until the morrow, this fine-
spirited Mayor of Strasbourg,
and that lie might depart
with the turn of the tide
from light to dark.
On the minister's bench,
at the front on the right, M.
Thiers and Jules Simon wen-
in close conference, and
shaking their heads dubious-
ly from time to time. M.
Simon was doubtless telling
his chief how strong the Al-
satian protests had grown
since M. Thiers's visit to Ver-
sailles, and what a battle
they might expect that after-
noon.
Now came a huge man
with a balky manuscript. It
was M. Le Franc, with the
report of the dolorous pro-
ceedings at Prussian head-
quarters, and what his com-
mittee, charged to examine
the aforesaid, thought about
it. On the leftthere wasgreat
agitation.Hugo, Louis Blanc, VICTOR HUGO AT BORDEAUX.
Floquet.and others took scats
together, as if arranging some preconcerted that is to hope for
already beginning
movement. The report of the committee peace." These words grated harshly on
seemed to evolve nothing except the the ears of some patriots in the gallery,
horrible consequences that would over- and they shouted out " You are a Prus-
:
whelm France should she refuse the sian, and so is every one who talks as
treaty. "The prolongation of the armis- you do " !
tice," said the reporter, " is refused. There was no applause when the re-
The forts of Paris are occupied, the porter bad finished. Every one had
listened with breathless interest, and many years, was now seen. M. Conti
knew how he should vote. Meantime demanded permission to address the
Edgar Quinet, representing the Republi- Assembly, and as he stepped down to
can Left, entered the tribune, and claimed cross the aisle to the tribune a perfect
to be heard because h«' had studied the howl of rage and derision followed him.
policy of Germany and Prussia for a The agitation could not have been
great part of his lifetime. He was greater hail ex-Emperor suddenly
the
listened to with impatience. "The appeared as the embodied misfortune of
feudal state Germany," he said,
of France, the walking shadow of Woerth
• avenges itself upon our free democratic and Sedan and Wilhelmshohe. The
institutions by making them contribute Alsatian deputy gave way only for a mo-
to our ruin. By this treaty peace is not ment, and Conti proceeded to ascend the
secured, but war, and war to the knife tribune steps. As he went up, a man
will soon be resumed." He declared, near the tribune darted out from a group
" Prussia wishes not only our fall, but of friends, and was about to seize the
our annihilation." daring Imperialist and hurl him down to
M. Thiers started up, half angered on the floor below ; but two or three caught
hearing M. Quinet thus denounce the him by the arms. Yet he struggled to get
preliminaries of peace. Meantime, away, screamed for vengeance, did this
through the crowds at the foot of the excitable Langlois of Paris, — Langlois
tribune, a stout was vigorously
figure who fought so well at Montretont, — and
making its way. Five minutes after- the tumult continued. From gallery and
wards this figure was in the tribune, and from diplomatic loges came expressions
order in the Assembly was submerged of surprise, anger, and fright. Ladies
in the most frightful confusion that ever arose as if about to leave their seats.
upset a legislative body. The mention The President tried in vain to maintain
of one almost-forgotten but odious order; but Conti, with indomitable Cor-
name had done this. A deputy from sica'.] persistance, hail sealed the tribune,
Strasbourg had ventured to say that the and, despite the shouts, opened his lips
proposed treaty was to be signed by
tit- to defend his late protector. The
only one man, and that that man was spectacle of the excitable, passionate
Napoleon III. At the utterance of this audience looking up at him as he spoke
name, which awoke so many unpleasant must have almost appalled him. There
memories, not only all deputies present were three men standing at the tribune's
reproached the orator, but the hundreds loot, looking as if they could almost have
of spectators muttered their comments. him as he came down. Put Conti

stilled
There was great excitement on the was very cool and collected. lie had
ministerial bench, for the treaty had heard the cry of the Paris mob, and had
been called odious and a death-warrant received deskfuls of mysterious threat-
Just as ~S\. Thiers was about to reply, ening letters ; had seen many an advent-
and had begun his speech in an angry ure in political life had been a member
;
voice, someone was heard defending the of another constitutional assembly, and
Emperor. Every member of the As- voted for Cavaignac, as he afterwards
sembly turned to see who it was. The said. That vote served his purpose but
staid and respectable form of M. Conti, little. lie had gone over to the Impe-
special secretary to the late Emperor for rialist faction, and been successively
—
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. :\'x\
member of the Council of State, special the war," —

and here the old gentleman
secretary, and even senator. He had began fiercely to pound the tribune rail,
lost a fine position by the Emperor's fall, " it was you, who now protest, you alone,
but could not refrain from putting his who wanted war ! Do not talk to us of
head in through the curtains, and saying the services rendered to France by the
once more " Here we are again."
: Empire !
" and, giving a final bang to
His plan was clear. He had heard the rail, he retired indignantly.
that the Assembly proposed to declare Every member of the Assembly was
the total wreck of the Empire. He now on his feet, aud shouts of assent to
feared it, and wished to rally the small M. Thiers's statement were heard from
forces at his disposition. There was every quarter except one. The Corsi-
perhaps a faint hope that universal cans rallied, however, and a lawyer from
suffrage might be diverted to the profit Bastia, named Gavini, attempted to
of the Empire once more. speak ; but he was silenced, and when the
was compelled by the storm of
lint he President called on all who agreed to the
hisses and reproaches to descend from proposition declaring Empire dead

the
the tribune, and, coming down, he met to rise, only six — the half-dozen Impe-
Victor Hugo, who glared fiercely at him rial deputies — remained seated.
and then turned his back upon him. Conti had certainly hastened the fu-
A little knot of men, who had been neral of theSecond Empire.
consulting together for some ten minutes, Thenceforward the members of the
now broke up. One of them went into Left had the session in their hands, aud
the tribune, and in tremulous tones proceeded in regular order with their
read a motion, hailed with furious bra- protests against the treaty. M. Bam-
vos, confirming the downfall of Na- berger, the Alsatian deputy, who had
poleon aud his dynasty, as al-
III. unwittingly provoked the Conti incident,
ready pronounced by universal suffrage, painted a glowing picture of the devo-
and declaring that dynasty responsible tion of Strasbourg to France and her
for the ruin, the invasion, aud the dis- appeals for help. Then came Victoi
memberment of France. Hugo, with his slow and labored delivery,
.Some few Bonapartists endeavored his long pauses for effect, his antitheses,
once more to protest ; lint this was too his periods of passionatedeclamation, and
much for the patience of M. Thiers, who his lion-like glancesaround the Assem-
fairly scrambled into the tribune, and, bly. His speech was disappointing, lint
standing in his favorite attitude, with was listened to with profound attention.
one hand placed on the front of the His eulogy of Paris made the deputies
tribune, began a fiery little speech. " I uneasy. This was not a time to talk of
have heard," he said, in his piping voice, heroisms: we were making peace; and,
•'
from the lips of sovereigns, that the when he spoke of delivering Germany
Imperial princes you represent say that from her Emperor, even as Germany had
they were not blameworthy for the dec- delivered France from hers, a smile flit-
laration of war; that it was France who ted across the faces of the deputies.
should bear the blame. They say that The great poet was not in his best form
ive are the culpable ones. I wish firmly in these early days after his return. It
to deny this, in the presence of all was only a short time after this session
Europe. No ! France did not wish for that he went out of the tribune in a lit of
:'»'.!
I EUROPE IN STORM AXP CALM.
anger, wrote his resignation, and stalked and tottering frame next appealed for
away from the Assembly, because he had peace, and the venerable warrior thought
not lie 'ii listened to with what he consid- it his duty to cast a stone into the camp
ered propel' attention. of the Left, whose definitions in favor
The only other speakersof importance of the moral right he did not recognize,
on this memorable day were M. Vache- " I fear," he said, " thai such discus-
rot, the noted philosopher, and at that sions will make the enemy lose its re-
time one "f the Mayors of Paris, who spect lor this Assembly."
spoke earnestly and with deep conviction Deputies from the department of the
for peace, because, in his opinion, war was Vosges, who thought it their duty to
impossible. Time, he maintained, would abstain from voting because they could
show the Prussians that they could not not bear the thought of prolonged war,
deal with populations as with lands. yet would not vote their own separation
Louis Blanc hail reserved for himself from theircountrymen, were rebuked in
in tin' day's programme the enunciation a fiery manner by the only one from the
of the mm
possumus and the eonseien- same department who had not joined
tioiis review of the right and wrong of them. This rebuke brought M. Thiers
the treaty. His speech was, in some once more to the tribune to ask all to
respects, the best, certainly the most ex- vote loyally, according to their eon-
liaustive. which the Assembly heard, sciences, and not to trifle with false patri-
and was listened to with unflagging in- otism.
terest, from the line opening statement. At last the deputy, Keller, from Alsa-
thai nothing was durable here below tia, had his final appeal, in which he
save justice, to the close, when he begged called the proposed treaty an injustice,
the Assembly to declare to Europe a falsehood, a dishonor. Then came
that to takeaway the quality of French- the vote, and an hour of weary waiting
men from Frenchmen exceeded her for the result; and when the members
power. The audience was spellbound, had all passed over the platform on
The right and wrong discussed thus at which stood the fatal urn. and the sec-
this meeting would not have been retaries had slowly counted, the bell was
listened to had a less skilful and pro- rung, and every one of the deputies and
found thinker been in the tribune. nearly every person present stood up to
There was something subtle in Louis hear the result declared.
Blanc's characterization of Prussia as a The vote was for peace, 546 to 107.
monarchy whose enlargement was due The treaty which took away Alsatia and
solely to two crimes, the theft of — the greater part of Lorraine from France
Silesia and the division of Poland, was the ransom of five millions
ratified ;
His summing up of the situation was as of francs was agreed to; and the broken
true as epigrammatic. "It is not lie- armies of France might now dissolve and
tween war to the death and peace that go back to the plough, the forge, and the
you are required to choose it is be- : counting-room,
tween war lor the maintenance of law M. Keller, who had been sitting bowed,
and right, and peace for the violation of with his face hidden in his hands, while
right between war for honor and peace
; his colleagues voted, now climbed up the
at the price of honor." steps once more, and there was a dead
General Changarnier's feeble voice silence as he stood confronting the As-
"
EUROPE W STORM AND CALM. 3d')
sembly. As he hade farewell to those dreds of deputies and all the foreigners
in whom he had not found protection, visiting Bordeaux went in respectful
and with his colleagues announced his procession to the railway station when
withdrawal from the Assembly, his atti- the Mayor's little funeral started for
tude was full of a noble dignity. ' I Strasbourg, and a few days afterwards
call," he said, " to take up the sword, the populace of the conquered city
every man who desires to have this de- poured forth by thousands to the ceme-
testable treaty burned and trampled upon tery where the Mayor, who was univer-
as soon as it is possible." sally beloved, was buried. 1'atriotio
Then the uniformed usher opened the speeches were made at the open grave,
door of our box, and we regained the although a display of French sentiment
open air. It was bright sunlight when in Strasbourg was dangerous in those
we entered, darkness of night when we days; and it is said that when the pro-
came out; and the darkness had fallen cession, returningto the gates of the
upon the hearts of the people. town, was halted, according to custom,
Next day we heard that the good by the sentinel, who said, "Who goes
Mayor of Strasbourg was dead. The sil- there?" the whole crowd in concert, and
ver cord was loosed by the cruel shock of as if moved by one unanimous impulse,
the news of the vote for peace. Hun- answered, "France !
CHAPTER F( >R TY-TWO.
Garibaldi and His —

Role.— New Italy. The Upgrowth of Her Nationality. — Causes that Hindered It
and Conduced I" It. — The Influence of Napoleon Third. — His Fatal Mistake in Counselling the
Alliance of Prussia and Italy. — Downfall of the Old French Monarchical Policy. —The Hesitation
of Frai — Occupation of Rome by the Italian Government. —
The Pontifical Zouaves.
GARIBALDI was one of the lions at an eagle, but did not consorl with vul-
Bordeaux so long as he chose to tuns: a hero of insurrections, who had
remain in the extemporized capital, and never forgotten that he was a gentleman.
tn show himself in the street, or in the The presence of Garibaldi at Bor-
lobbies of the Assembly, from which lie deaux brought forcibly to mind the great
hail resigned with so much dignity. His changes which had been going on in the
serene and heroic countenance, his frank Italian peninsula since the influence of
gaze, his dignified carriage, and his slow the second French Empire had begun to
and imposing gestures were all carefully weaken and totter towards its fall. In
noted and chronicled. 1 1 is sayings were these events < Jaribaldihad played a shin-
reported with utmost fidelity, and where- ing part. His careerhad often been
ever he went he was followed by attentive checked by his fortune: the French Em-
stenographers. |iire. which he had so detested, had
The Radicals, and. indeed, most of the placed its bayonets at the disposition of
advanced Republicans, did not hesitate to his adversaries; but he lived to see
call Iiiiu the only successful general on ••
Italy free from the Alps to the sea."
the French side in the recent campaign. and to witness the complete discomfiture
When he left the Assembly, after hav- of the man who in his early ami ardent
ing given in his resignation, he made a. youth had professed a warm enthusiasm
little address on the steps of the theatre, for the cause of Italian nationality, and
in which he said that he had always who in his mature middle life had found
known how to distinguish monarchical the support of his nobler ideals ineom-
France. the France of the clergy, from patible with the success of his Imperial
Republican France. The first two. to his fortunes.
thinking, merited only execration, but Re- The volcanic forces which had been
publican France was worthy of all love and so mysteriously at work
Europe for in
devotion. The Radicals were so pleased many years had. as it were, shaken and
with Garibaldi that when the Commune fused, together into one composite and
was installed at the Hotel de Ville, in the homogeneous mass the lone separated
following month, an appointment iu what States ofItaly. The land of volcanoes
it was pleased to call its army was given and earthquakes had been convulsed
him; but the grand old patriot did not politically, and to its lasting profit. The
soil his skirts with contact with those great movement in favor of Italian unity
noisy swashbucklers who steeped their was no more checked by the hand
to he
brains in wine, and damped their swords of the French Emperor, or to be

fallen
in the blood of their brethren. He was hindered by a show of French bayonets

EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM. 31)7
in Rome than the Lightning in the heavens lating attitude with regard to Rome :
or the sweep of the winds. The suc- but days of 1866 he had begun
in those
cession of wars from 1804 to 1870, by the policy which conducted him to his
which Prussia asserted her supremacy on ruin. He counted without his host
the Continent, culminating in the tre- when he founded all his hope upon the
mendous struggle and series of victories issue of a conflict between Austria and
which we have just outlined, had defi- Prussia, a conflict which he hoped to pro-
nitely closed the era of the old monarch- voke by abetting the alliance between
ical policy in France, a policy which con- Prussiaand Italy. It is notstrange that
sisted in pushing the French frontier the French monarchists call the man who
as far as possible away from Paris and was their imperial master for half a gen-
in preventing the cooperation of small eration a " fatal man," for he rendered
states which were neighbors to France. the future practice of their time-conse-
Although it is perhaps wise to believe crated policy utterly impossible. M.
in the mysterious dispensation
which Thiers, the old and wily monarchist, had
brings about the unity of peoples, and sounded his note of alarm in the great
creates, despite the harshness of fate debate on the Roman question in the ( 'orps
and of circumstance, new and powerful Ligislatif in December of 1867, when he
nations, it is still an open question cried out: " No sovereign should volun-
whether Italy and Germany would have tarily create on his own frontier a State
been unified within their respective of twenty-live millions of inhabitants.
bounds for a generation to come had it Italy, in becoming a great monarchy,
not been for the weakness of the late at the same time becomes a disturbing
policy of Napoleon III. Among the agent and an instrument of revolution.
most sincere friends of the late Emperor The Germanic federation, which for
there are many critics who maintain that, twenty years was the main authority
when the French Emperor advised Italy for maintaining the peace of the world,
to make its alliance with Prussia in 1866, has disappeared, and lias been replaced
he opened the door to all the disasters by a military monarchy, which disposes
which finally fell upon his government. of fi.uty millions of men: and you are
This treaty, signed in April of 1866, bore placed between two unities, one which
within its breast the germ of Italian you made and the other which you per-
unity, the Germau empire, the suppres- mitted."
sion of the Temporal Power, the fall of This wail of M. Thiers for the lost
the Imperial dynasty,
the dismember- balance of power was hailed with genuine
ment of France, and the Communal in- delight by the aspiring spirits in Italy
surrection. This is a French view, and Germany, who were panting for the
which is perhaps pessimistic yet we ; consummation of national unity.
have on record the singular saying of Had Napoleon III. kept his plighted
Bismarck, when he came back from word to the French Republic before 1852,
Biarritz, where the arrangements for the perhaps the dream of Italy might have
treaty had been made, " If Italy had been sooner realized, and there might
not existed we should have had to invent have been some hope of a Latin feder-
her!" ation, — hope which may now be set aside
Napoleon's :isseiil to tin-, treaty was :is vain. lint Napoleon as Emperor
singular when contrasted with his vacil- really set back the progress of Italy
towards full national stature. All that strangers in the " lovely land of Italy,'"
he had dune for the country in 1859 was the country was hopelessly divided.
as naught in the eyes of the Italians so " The Italians." says a despairing writer
long as his bayonets glittered in the on Italy, in 1848, "took part, some
streets of Home. When Rouher in his with France, some with Spain, until at
famous speech said that Italy would last all Italy laid her weapons at the
never enter Rome, the revolutionists feet of the fortunate Austrian in 1530.
beyond the Alps trembled with wrath, All the interval between Julius II. and
and General I)e Failly's cool remark that Pius VI., between Charles V. and Na-
the u chassepdts had done marvels" at poleon, was, for that country, a long
Montana awoke resentment in the Ital- agony. was dying,
Italy dying by —
ian mind which the generous French inches, —
dying unconsciously. The
nation,committed to the policy of a chill of death was at the heart; but, by
government which it detested, was very unnatural anomaly from the wonted
far from suspect ing. course of nature, symptoms of vitality
What wonderful changes had come to were still discernible at the extremities.
Italy between L867 and the close of that Milan and Naples were lost ; but Venice
fateful year of bs7i>! On that same and Genoa still amongst
stood calm
September day when the Crown Prince ruins of mediaeval fortune; and Home,
of Prussia entered Versailles with his papal Rome, yet preserved some of its
victorious army, the troops of King Vic- prestige, —
the vain shadow of spiritual
tor Emmanuel of Italy entered Rome sovereignty. Moreover and that was —
after a brief resistance from the Pope's yetathird style of supremacy men still —
soldiers. M. Rouher's scornful prophecy looked up to Italian genius; lor politi-
had proved false. Italy, on that day cal annihilation had not yet brought with
which brought disaster to her ancient it mental prostration and degeneracy.
ally, stood up proud and strong in the Tlnse circumstances contributed to
••
face of the world, in full possession of keep up the sad illusion of an Italian
the heritage of which she had been de- existence. The foreign ruler was per-
prived for more than three hundred and manently established Lombardy, the in
fifty years. What Italian unity meant centre of Italian wealth in modern times.
to Italians it is almost impossible for He lorded it over both Sicilies, and from
Americans to understand. This unity had these, his head-ijuai ters. hisnod was law
been looked forward to for so long, and at Florence and Rome. He kept the
had been so persistently denied them, remaining States in continual alarm by
that it seemed almost foolish to hope on. open threats, by perfidious intrigues;
In 1848, the great period of universal and these had lio defense against him,
revolution in Europe, the Italians almost besides the most selfish, subservient,
clutched the glittering prize ; then it was pusillanimous policy.
swept out of their reach once more, and "All this for nearly three centuries.
only such stern priests of liberty as At the breaking out of the French Revo-
Mazzini could keep the lamp of their lution, ill 1789, the death-blow was
faith burning brightly in the weary scarcely needed. Napoleon, in 17H7,
years. All the way down through the or his conquerors, in 1814, blotted out
generations from Julius IT., who preached Venice and Genoa, the last cities of
the crusade against the barbarians and genuine Italian growth; 1820 and 1831,
stripped Naples, Piedmont, and Rome bard-Venetian kingdom had become an

— those foreign structures of the Holy Austrian province. So great were the
Alliance, on Italian ground — of their excesses of the Austrians in the penin-
tinsel of nominal self-existence, by sula Count C'avour, one of the
that
throwing them helplessly, for very life, builders and founders of Italian unity,
on Austrian protection. From (he Alps boldly denounced them and it was not ;
to the sea the Austrian made himself at long before Piedmont and its sovereign,
home. Where he was not to-day he whose minister C'avour was, saw the
might be expected to-morrow. All the Austrian armies arrayed against it.
princes still bearing the name of inde- Then, in a generous moment, Napoleon
pendent were ou\y the first of his vassals. III. espoused the cause of Piedmont,
Every one of the Italian States presented and in swift succession came the battles
a melancholy spectacle of a house of Montebello, Palestro, Magenta, and
divided against itself, and it was espe- Marignan. Lombardy was swept clear
cially this deep-rooted animosity between of the Austrians by the victorious French
government and people that made Italy and Italians, and the sanguinary en-
Austrian throughout. It was a state of counter of Solferino brought the cam-
things to make many a patriot wish for paign to an end.
an actual annexation of this mere Aus- As the price of the aid which Napoleon
trian dependency to the Austrian mon- gave the Italians in the conflict with the
archy. The Roman, Neapolitan, and Austrians, the provinces of Nice and
Sardinian governments were, in fact, Savoy were transferred to France and ;
Austrian with a vengeance." Each suc- this had been agreed upon by a secret
cessive revolution in Italy, from 1820 to arrangement, which was not made pub-
1848, whether a demand for a French lic until after the peace. When the
charter or a Spanish constitution, attack populationswho had been thus bodily
upon priestly government or rash insur- removed from one government to another
rection by hot-headed patriots, without were called upon to express their ideas
any definite aim except, hatred of the on the change, the majority of the votes
Austrian, was crushed with promptness were favorable to French annexation,
and decision. But this very vigor of the andNicehas become, in these latter days,
Austrian had for its result the concen- such a jewel in the Mediterranean garden
tration of all Italian energies into the of cities, such a popular midwinter
national parties. capital of fashionable pomp and pleasure,
Mazzini, early in 1848. declared that that the Italians look longingly towards
the only question henceforth in Italy was it. and weep that they cannot have it
the national one. and that all questions back again.

as to the forms of internal policy must Out of this war came the movement
be put off until after the close of the war which resulted in the foundation of the
of independence. constitutional monarchy of Victor Em-
From 1840 to 1850 Austria was then manuel. Florence. Parma. Modena, and
all-powerful in the Italian peninsula. Bologna declared the downfall of their
At Modena, at Florence, at Parma, at old governments, and voluntarily an-
Naples, and at Rome, the Italians were nexed themselves to the kingdom of
crushed beneath the Austrian taxes Sardinia. This was the first step toward
and the military requisitions. The Lom- the welding together of the nation.
;
100 El ROPE 1\ STORM AXD CALM.
In Sicily there wore insurrections, deserting the Pope. As for Tins IX..
Garibaldi, at the head of his famous he always opposed possumus his non
7
••
Thousand. entered Palermo.
'
Sicily with :i and serene firmness to
sweet
was pacified, and Garibaldi came back every expedient which the Emperor of
o Viples in triumph. The events from the French suggested.
that time to the present are too well The government first mani-
Italian
known to need more than hast\ recapitu- fested its independence of Fiance
direct
lation here Victor Emmanuel entered when Napoleon 111. endeavored to
Naples as it-- sovereign in ISGO. The tempt it to the rupture of its alliance
populations of Southern Italy finally with Prussia by offering to secure
acknowledged his power. The Italian Venetia King Victor Emmanuel.
for
Parliament met in Turin in 1861, ami in This, thought Napoleon, was a prize
March of that year the kingdom of Italy which would thoroughly dazzle the new
was proclaimed. Then Garibaldi mani- King. The Queen of tin- Adriatic had
fested a Hen impatience to march upon long been in mourning in presence of
Pome; luit he could not persuade the the harsh invader. It would be a grace-
King to adopt his way of thinking, SO ful act. and would look well in history,
lie swept down into Sicily, where he to interfere ("v her restoration to her
raised a valiant little army, and was kindred. But the Italian court explained
well on his way to Rome to fight the that it was too late to break friendship
final battle, which would have completed with Prussia. The Italians fully appre-
Italian unity, when the King's troops dated the importance of their new con-
met him at Aspromonte, and held him nection. and realized that they could
hack. free Venice without Napoleon's aid.
All this time France was the chief The French Emperor was taken between
obstacle t<> the conquest >>( Rome. In tin* forward movements in Italy and
1864 the French Empire concluded with Germany like one of those prisoners of
Italy a treaty, by which Rome and its the Middle Ages, immured in a cell with
neighborhood were to he respected by moving walls, which came slowly together
the Italians, even after the French to crush him.
troops, which had long been the main Italy had serious misfortune by land
support >'i the papacy, were withdrawn and by sea when she entered the great
from Rome. The Roman question ever and swifl campaign of is,;,; side by side
since the expedition of 1859 hail been with Prussia. She came to grief by
source of grave embarrassment to land at Custozza, and In sea at Lissa
Napoleon 111. At one time he reconi- was crushed by the northern
hut Austria
mended the Pope to abandon a part of German, and Victor Emmanuel came
his temporal empire to save the rest, in triumph into the historic square of
He even counselled him to give up every- St. Mark to welcome tin' bride of the
thitm' except Koine: at another. In- si hack into the family from which she
i
caressed the project of an Italian federa- had been so long parted. Old Prince
lion which should he presided over by Von Metternich. who was a
the Pope. Doubtless many of thesi when he heard that Napoli
things weii suggested by the influeuce III. was coquetting with Cavour, had
of the Empress, who was an inflexible pred at the revolutionary empire
opponent of au\ movement towards •' would perish on the Italiau hreaki
The old diplomat was well-nigh omnis- ready to make with France an offensive
cient in all tilings temporal, and he and defensive alliance. How different
doubtless foresaw the trend of events might have been the results of the war
taking Italy into the arms of Prussia. which France was fatally destined to
The French Empire had withdrawn have with Prussia, if this Italian offer
its troops from Rome in 18G4, after the had been accepted !
famous September convention but, in ; General Menabrea made spiteful re-

1KG7, Garibaldi, who was a keen ob- marks afterwards about Napoleon's
server of the direction of the wind in refusal, which he doubtless attributed to
European politics, began anew a inarch family influences. " It is very unlucky,"
upon Koine with his volunteers. He he said to a French diplomat in Florence
saw that the French Empire, up to that in 1871, " that we did not conclude that
time the pivot upon which the politics of alliance, because, the first duty of two
the Continent revolved, was beginning to allies being the reciprocal control of
fail ; so he boldly stepped across the and resources,
their military effectives
frontiers, which Italy, by the conven- we should have been able to show the
tion, had agreed to keep sacred from Emperor that he was not in a condition
intrusion. The Pope was threatened in to make war."
his St. Peter's chair. Napoleon was To the French troops in Rome suc-
forced to stop in his long list of enter- ceeded a kind of international guard,
tainments to sovereigns during the Composed of young gentlemen from the
brilliant festival of the Exhibition, and aristocratic families of various European
to send out an iron-clad squadron, laden countries, and of adventurers of more
with French troops, to C'ivita Vecchia. or less renown. The life which this
Europe was struck with the celerity with body of defenders of tin' faith led dining
which this French expedition was or- the three years before the entry of tin'
ganized. Prussia was a little dazed by King of Italy into Koine was hardly an
it, and for a short time wondered if it agreeable one. There is a good story
had been mistaken in its estimate of the which illustrates one of the odd phases
French military disorganization. The of life in this corps. Early in 1868 a
prestige of France, which had steadily young man of noble family, who was
lowered after Sadowa, rose up again. burning to distinguish himself in military
But Mentana was a mistake and where- ; deeds, went to Rome, and laid his sword
as at the moment of the expedition the at the feet of the Pope, or, in other
French Imperialists fancied that they words, enlisted in the Pontifical Zouaves.
had recovered their hold upon Italy, they On the day after his enlistment, he re-
had done the one thing which had finally ported to his superior officer at a dirty
ruined their influence. barracks in an obscure quarter of the
Italy made one last effort to secure the Eternal City, and inquired what he could
aid of France advance upon Koine.
in its do to fill up his leisure.
when it sent General Menabrea to Vichy " Go into the court-yard," said the
in 18(39, to say to Napoleon III. that if officer, •• and peel potatoes."
he would agree to the embodiment of all The young man of noble family made
the Papal states, with the exception of a respectful salute, but said that he did
Rome and its immediate environs, in the not understand. Whereupon he received
kingdom of Italy, that kingdom was a bluff military rebuke, and was told
402 EUROPE m STORM AND CALM.
that he should go into the court-yard The humiliation of this gentleman,

and peel potatoes, and if he could not who had had dreams of military glory,
understand an order when it was given, and found that he had nothing but menial
he could take three days in the guard- services to perform in a dull garrison,
house, which were forthwith bestowed battles description,
upon him.
CHAPTER FORTY-THREE.
The Great Pier Between the Mediterranean and the Adriatic. —
Brindisi and Naples. The Revival of —
Commerce. —
Industrial Exhibitions. —
Universal Progress. —
The Struggle Between Church and
State. —
Pius IX. and Victor Emmanuel. —
The High Priest of European Conservatism. The " Ifon —
Possumus " of the Vatican. —
Familiar Traits of Victor Emmanuel.
" TTALY," once said a witty Italian seemed possible for her, and binding, by
-L frieud of mine, ' is a great pier bands of iron and unity of mercantile in-
extended from the south of Europe into terests, Germany and Italy together as
the Adriatic and Mediterranean seas, no political alliance could possibly bind
and Brindisi and Naples are its pier them.
heads." The cities, so numerous in Italy,
This word " pier," in connection with where the long division into petty states
the " lovely land of Italy," seemed, at had fostered the up-building ami the
first, to have a jarring sound, for it sug- rivalry of capitals, have all had a touch
gested things commercial, which had not of the new inspiration. Turin and
been in recent times habitually associated Florence have ceased to mourn over the
with the peninsula ; but events have departure of the court to Rome. Turin
proved that no expression could have has sprung into first-rate business im-
been more apt to describe new Italy of portance. Florence, for a long time
the period of unification. weighed down by municipal misfortunes,
In fact, from Brindisi and from Naples is beginning to recover its splendor of
flow to the east great currents of com- old time. and Verona, and
Milan,
merce which are constantly increasing in Venice, and Genoa no longer merit the
volume. England sends her generals, title of cities of the past. They are in
her treasures, and her mails to the immediate and constant relations with
Indies by the Italian route and the port
; the living and enthusiastic present. But
of Naples is never without half a dozen exacting critics say that this northern
steamers from the Orient, arriving or section is not real Italy ; that it is so
departing from it, as the most convenient closely allied with German lands ou the
point at which to touch in Southern one hand, and with France on the other,
Europe, before making the long sweep that its characteristics are composite,
eastward. The piercing of the Alps by and that the enterprise, the quick energy
numerous tunnels, by the mighty one of of the northern races, may be well mani-
Mont Cenis, which was completed in 1871 ;
fest there, while it will be entirely lack-
and in these latter years by that of the St. ing in the sleepy and sensuous south.
Gothard, lias transformed the railway This is an unjust criticism, and one
system of Italy as by magic, and has which the enterprise of Naples, the won-
opened new channels for trade, making derful upbuilding of Rome, the activity
of ancient and illustrious Genoa the dan- manifest even in Sicily —
much agitated
gerous rival of Marseilles ;
giving to by politics and volcanoes, —
amply dis-
Venice an impulse which uo longer prove. At the present writing, Naples
is about to In- girdled with a metropoli- he was one of the great artificers of the
tan railway, — an institution which Paris national unity. It is due to his immense
dors not yet possess ; and in most of the persistence and unflagging industry that
southern Italian cities, in public build- the Apennines, which once divided Italy
ings, in municipal institutions of every into numerous distinct basins which
kind, the march of progress has been seemed to be shut out from communica-
as rapid as in any other country in tion with each other by natural barriers,
Europe. The rise in the value of Italian are to-day piercedby five railway lines
railway stocks was .so swift as to cause a between Naples and Foggia, Pome and
great and very agreeable surprise to Ancona, Florence and Bologna, Genoa
thousands of investors, who could not and Milan, Savona anil Turin. New
believe it possible that the once divided lines are constantly created, and the
and helpless Italian land had produced Piedmontese, the Lombards, the Romans,
such results. The railways of the penin- the Neapolitans, the Sicilians, who once
sula are shortly to be divided into two lived as much apart as if they had been
great systems, the Adriatic and the separated by great oceans, now inter-
Mediterranean ; and these, with their mingle, exchange sentiments and im-
tributary lines running in all directions, pressions and the work of welding the
;
will soon develop the rich agricultural nation together goes bravely on. Indus-
fields, which have long been destitute of trial exhibitions of great importance and
facilities communication. In Italy,
for extent have, within the last few years,
as in mauv of the newer States of the given a powerful aid to the completion
American Union, the narrow-gauge rail- of Italian unity. The exhibitions at
way is a popular institution ; and there Milan and Turin attracted hundreds of
is an Italian company specially organ- thousands of visitors from the southern
ized for creating these beneficent and portion of the peninsula; have prompted
inexpensive arteries of commerce wher- the creation of new industries, and opened
ever they are needed. new channels ; and they did away with
The commercial movement, up to the the stupid provincialism for which the
time of the sudden development of the Italians had long been justly reproached,
international railway system, had been and put money into circulation where it
entirely concentrated 11)1011 the coast, had hitherto been almost unknown.
and especially upon the western side, In 18G7 beggars were so abundant in
where were the ports of Genoa, Leghorn, Italy that one could not take a stroll in
Naples, and the great Sicilian cities of the street or country without being
Palermo, Messina, Catania, and Syra- besieged by them. In 1877 beggars
cuse. No sooner were the Alps and the had become a less frequent specta-
Apennines tunnelled than the Italian cle, both at the great highways of
trade with the outer world doubled in travel and in the interior districts.
volume, and between 1SG1 and 1872 Emigration, the new system of railway
the commerce of Italy with Austria-Hun- service, the drafting away of the strong
gary rose from sixty-seven millions of and capable from districts where they
francs to four hundred and forty-seven had been too numerous into others
millions. where they could be utilized in manu-
The civil engineer is a personage much facturing aud agriculture, the upbuild-
respected in Italy, aud with reason, for ing of a splendid new navy, — all these
EUROPE /A" STORM AND CALM. 405
things had awakened the once depend- tropical moonlights ; but these critics
ent and shiftless populations to a sense could not deny that the new Italian
of dignity. painters painted from nature, and that
The Italian suddenly appeared in the in theirdevotion to subjects taken from
great commercial towns of France and their own land and beneath their own
Spain, in Algeria, and in the Levant. sky there was a national feeling as keen
When he found the taxation in his home and as pronounced as that which had
district too heavy to bear he closed his been manifest in politics in the peninsula
cottage door, and, taking his wife and from 18GG to the occupation of Rome.
children by the hand, departed for the Lut this very nationalization of painting
nearest seaport, and set his foot upon seemed to shut out the Italian painters
the ships which took him to South of average merit from the great exhibi-
America or to other lands beyond the tions in northern Europe, to which they
sea. But lie always took away with him had sometimes sent specimens of their
the hope that he might return to share work. They had emancipated them-
the new future, which now looked so selves from the school of Fontainebleau
bright and promising. and Barbizon, and, instead of painting
Literature, painting, sculpture revived ; the fleecy skies, the grays and blues of
and. although those liberal arts in which northern French schools, the deep and
Italy had once led the world were ap- soft greens, and the dells and lakes
proached with that timidity which is and glades enshrouded in the luminous
natural in the race that has always had haze of Corot, Diaz, and Rousseau, had
the best models of the greatest masters put upon canvas the glories of Sorrento
before its eyes, the achievements were at and of Naples Bay, the pine woods of
once honorable and many. Visitors to Ravenna and the sandy slopes by the
the Milan Exhibition, in 1881, were con- Adriatic, or the gorgeous colors on the
stantly expressing their astonishment, as Venetian horizon, where fantastic archi-
they passed from aisle to aisle of the tecture seems to spring by magic from
great palace which were grouped the
in sea and sky inextricably blended. In
products of Italian industry and art. It literature there had not been so great a
was evident that the country had re- decay as in the other arts but the ful-;
sumed its old position in the domain of filment of the national aspirations un-
industrial art ; that the glass-makers of doubtedly gave it a firmer purpose and a
to-day in Venice were no whit inferior to stronger vitality.
their splendid predecessors of the middle (tut of the twenty-eight millions of
ages, and that there were still to be found native Italians the great majority are de-
men who knew the lustre of majolicas, voted to agriculture. The culture of the
and who understood the subtlety of silk-worm, of rice, of the vine, of oil, of
Roman form in jewelry, in mosaics, and figs, raisins,almonds, chestnuts, oranges,
in the inlaying of delicate furniture. In lemons, can be made profitable with
the galleries devoted to painting, the smaller expense than in any other
critics from Paris, from Loudon, and European country. The wine and silk
Vienna expressed their holy honor at industries have within the last frw years
the deep blue of the skies, the purple assumed great importance. Italy ex-
waters, and the general impression of ports to France millions upon millions of
dazzling sunshine, opalescent wave, and gallons of wines, inferior in point of
40(5 EUROPE IK STORM AND CALM.
fabrication to those of ber neighbor State, estimated that nearly every member of
but sound and wholesome, and often the rural population of the kingdom has
used in the making of those imitations to find 10 or 20 lire, something like $i,
of famous brands which the French per year to support the government
send to what they call " eccentric" revenue
countries. Every year from sixty to seventy-five
Only thirty-six per cent, of the total thousand young men are swept away into
area of Italy is yet under cultivation; the standing army, to serve for three
yet Italy manages to produce in a pros- years in the infantry and four years in the
perous year six hundred million gallons of cavalry and a second draft of sixty
;
wine, more olives than any other country thousand is taken from the farms and
in Europe, and one hundred and forty workshops lo serve six months under
million bushels of wheat ; to send Great the Hag. both afterwards passing into the
Britain oil and hemp ami fruit, sulphur, reserve and the mobile militia. Every
chemical products, wine, flax, and iron valid Italian man remains in the Italian
ore. ami to take in return vast quantities a liny, in the active or in the reserve,
of cotton, iron, coal, and woollens ; to until he is thirty-nine years old. Italy,
employ more hundred and

than one from her twelve military " regions," as
twenty thousand women and two-thirds as site calls them, can now muster some-
many children in her silk factories and ; thing like a million of soldiers, of which
from her rich pasturages to export scores half a million are in the infantry, twenty-
of thousands of cattle, .sheep, and swine. two regiments in the cavalry, and nearly
In spite of the chronic evils of almost one hundred and fifty thousand men in
universal ignorance among the peasant the artillery service. The mobile and
classes, and high taxation, the country the territorial militia is estimated at nine
has seen its credit, rise slowly and steadily hundred and thirty thousand strong,
until its paper money is to-day as good which, added to the active, would give
as gold. In each of the great general nearly two millions; but the putting on
divisions of the country, Piedmont, foot for immediate service of half this
Liguria,Lombardy, Venice, Emilia, Tus- number would be a gigantic effort for the
cany. Marcia, Umbria, and Rome, country.
Naples, Sicily, and Sardinia, order is Italy is justly proud of her new navy,
now uniformly enforced, brigandage al- which is a kind of mystification for the
most entirely done away with, a military rest of Europe. The English, the French,
service sternly insisted upon, and one and the Germans all fail to understand
kind of money is current through all why the new kingdom must have nine-
these States, which were once so proud teen huge iron-clads, some of them, like
of their own petty institutions, coinage the Duilio" anil the "Dandolo," carrying
and traditions. four one-hundred-ton, muzzle-loading
As to the reform of ignorance, Italy Armstrong guns, and wearing armor
is doing its Elementary instruction
1 lest. nearly two feet thick at the water-line,
is obligatory and gratuitous by law but ; and eighteen inches thick on the turrets,
the resources of the country are not suffi- with their gigantic guns mounted, and
cient, to maintain schools in all the worked by hydraulic mechanism. The
country districts, nor can they stand the country has spent four millions of dollars
strain for many years to come. It is each for those two vast vessels, the
"Italia" and the '• Lepanto," each four State, which was continued without in-
hundred feet long, seventy-two feet termission until the death of the great
broad, and with an extreme draught of representatives of each power. Pius IX.,
water exceeding thirty feet. whom the Catholic world was pleased
These are the largest warships ever to consider as the prisoner of the ex-
yet built; and their engines are twice communicated King of Italy, and Victor
as powerful as the engines of any other Emmanuel finished their lives at the
armored ship ever constructed. The beginning of 1878 ; the King, who had
rdle which such formidable monsters set his hand to the decree regulating the
will play in some future encounter funeral ceremonies of the Pontiff, being
in the Adriatic or the Mediterranean destined to pass away first. From 1870
cannot be prophesied. At present one to 1878 the Bishop of Eome. the Vicar
can only suppose that Italy is building of Jesus Christ, Successor of St. Peter,
these prodigious ships as floating for- Prince of the Apostles, Supreme Pontiff
tresses, evidences of her new strength of the Universal Church, had acted as the
and greatness, and her determination to high-priest of European conservatism,
defend herself, if necessary. The " Italia" and had set his face sternly against all
and the "Lepauto" have, like the ships the ardent and generous attempts of the
before mentioned, each fourone-hundred- House of Savoy to reconcile him to the
ton breech-loading guns, carried in a bar- upspringing of the new nationality and
bet, protected by nineteen inches of steel- the emancipation from the dogmas of the
faced armor ; and, in addition to these, church.
eighteen four-ton six-inch breech-load- Pius IX. was one of the most remark-
ingguns mounted on the broadsides. The able men who ever occupied the papal
old arsenal of Venice, from which went throne, and he sat longer upon that
out the galleys of " Daudolo," the beaked throne than any of his predecessors.
vessels whose crews made Venice the He had the face of a saint, and the stern-
mistress of the seas, has recovered its ness and vigor of a soldier. He had,
activity, and the Venetians toil night and indeed, been a soldier in his youth, but
day on the engines for the defense of the a curious nervous infirmity rendered it
great country in which their diverse in- unlikely that he could succeed in a mili-
dividualities have so lately been merged. tary career. So he decided to take holy
Thus, after the completion of her nu- orders. He was the son of a certain
merous projects for improving, building Count Jerome Mastai-Ferretti, a de-
and rebuilding, fortifying, defending, scendant of an old family, and a very-
and expanding, Italy has been so busy good one. At eighteen young Mastai
at home that she has played but small was a Liberal, an enthusiast, and a Free-
part in the international movements since mason, which was thought a dreadful
the creation of her unity.Within her thing in Catholic Europe in those days.
own boundaries she had had plenty to After the youth had determined upon en-
occupy her attention. tering the priesthood he studied theology
With Eome, in July of
the entry into carefully at Rome, and was ordained a
1871, of Victor Emmanuel, and the es- priest in 1819. In 1840 he had already
tablishment of the capital of the new reached the eardinalate, and six years
kingdom in the Eternal City, began a later, when Gregory XVI. died, an old
formidable duel between Church ami friend and fellow-pupil called the atten-
408 FJ'IiOPE IN STORM AND CALM.
tion of the College of Cardinals to Mas- Italy, he began the policy of reaction.
tai's merits, and lie was made Pope in His ministry was unpopular; his chief
1S4G. He took the name of Pius IX., minister was assassinated the people ;
in memory of Pins VII., who was his were furious; and the Pope hail to fly
relative. across the frontier to Neapolitan terri-
For a long time, and especially during tory, where he installed the court and
the stormy days of 1848, the new Pope's called the diplomatic corps around him.
position was but vaguely defined. At It was more than a year and a half before
one time lie was acclaimed and welcomed he was replaced upon the throne of Peter,
by the Democrats of Italy as likely to and, surrounded by the French bayonets,
be the leader of their cause and to bring without which his career would have been
liberty back into the land from which it closed a generation before, he began the
had so long been an exile. But those enunciation of that formidable series of
who had been momentarily deceived by doctrines which has resulted in a most
his professions of reform were griev- complete change in the attitude of the
ously disappointed when they found that Catholic Church to modern institutions.
he eared little for practical liberty, ami From the day of Garibaldi's successful
that, although he was willing to be Pope, expedition to Sicily down to the day of
lie could not, as he quaintly said. " get his death Pius IX. maintained the atti-
himself damned to please the Liberals." tude of one persecuted, bowing to decrees
Yet he had apparently gone so far with which he could not interfere, but
towards Liberalism at one time that which lie refused to admit as other than
there was a conspiracy among the mem- transitory and impious. lie was quick
bers of the government to

Pontifical to see that in the march of events in half-
bring him back' to a correct attitude by a-dozen European countries there were
the terrorizing measures which had so incessant menaces to the temporal power
often, it was said, been practised against of the Church ; and, while he opposed in
refractory Popes. graceful and dignified language the non

In answer to the appeal of Milan and possumus of the papacy, he now and
Venice the Romans begged the Pope to then, in his more familiar conversations,
take part in the movement for indepen- inveighed with all the vigor of a politician
dence, and to send an army corps against against the enemies of the Church.
Austria. Pius IX. hesitated, but at last When he heard that the Italian Parlia-
he sent seventeen thousand men to take ment had proclaimed Victor Emmanuel
part in the campaign, which pleased tin' King of Italy, in 18(11, and had declared
Austrians SO little hanged a
that they that Rome was the capital of the new
Roman soldier whom they had taken kingdom, although the court still re-
prisoner, and inscribed upon his gallows : mained in Turin, Pius IX. declared that
"Thus do we treat the soldiers of Pius he could not, without gravely wounding
IX." his conscience, make any alliance with
In 1848 the Pope was a bolder politi- modern civilization. Shortly after that
cian than any great secular sovereign in he, in one of his allocutions, condemned
Europe. When he saw the Revolution that same modern civilization, which
and observed that thi
fairly in progress, '•
does not even prevent heretics from
sweeping changes -which were made in taking public office, and which opens
France were likely to lie insisted on in Catholic schools to their children." In
EUROPE /.V STORM AXP CALM. 409
THE LAST BENEDICTION OF POPE PIUS IX.

lsiil. he published :i syllabus, in which and define that it is a dogma divinely

the Church fulminated against the whole revealed that the Roman Pontiff, when
Democratic theory, and opposed cate- he speaks ex cathedra, defining a doc-
gorically and with the most tremendous trine regarding faith or morals to be
energy every doctrine of the French Rev- held by the Universal Church, is. by the
olution and of the little revolutions Divine assistance promised to him in
which had grown out of it, and almost blessed Peter, possessed of that infalli-
every achievement of modern science bility with which the Divine Redeemer
which had led to Liberalism in thought willed that his Church should be endowed
and action. in defining doctrine regarding faith or
In 1867 he published an encyclical let- morals; and that therefore such defini-
ter against the Italian government, and tions of the Roman Pontiff are of them-
condemned all the laws voted by the selves, and not through the consent of
national parliament for secularizing the the Church, infallible." The imposing mi-
estates of the Church. He declared nority which arose against this decision —
against the increased facilities for the minority composed of ( German and French
higher instruction of women in France, ecclesiastics alike — had no effect upon
against the liberal laws which Austria Pius IX. As the wave of Democracy rose
was beginning to make in harmony with he stood more erect and sterner than ever
modern ideas. — laws recognizing the lib- upon the rock of Peter. His discourses
erty of conscience and of the press, mixed were full of allusions to the wicked war
marriages, primary instruction, etc. made against the Church, to the perver-
These, laws, he said, were abominable, sion of law, to corrupt artifices for break-
contrary to doctrine, to the rights and to ing the boundsof salutary authority. He
the constitution of the Church. In 1868 enjoyed to the full his triumph in the
lie scut the famous golden rose blessed Vatican Council. He saw himself sol-
by his own hand. ti> Queen Isabella of emnly proclaimed as infallible, all his
Spain, so soon destined to fly before her opponents except two at the final vote,
enraged people. When the Spanish Re- which was in public session, abstaining,
public came, he forbade the Spanish rather than to place themselves on record
bishops to take scats in the Cortes or as opposed to the Successor of Peter.
to take the oath of fidelity to the con- Thus at the very moment of the ele-
stitution of their country. In 1868 he vation of the Pope, who had ruled in
published a bull, convoking the Ecumeni- Rome for a generation, to the highest
cal C'ouncilat Rome to meet in December honor possible to attain on earth, he saw
of the following year. In this council his spiritual capital invaded by the
he for the secondundertook the
time Italian King, and the old papal resi-
profound modification of the creed of dence of the Quirinal occupied by the
the Catholic Church. In 1*54 he had royal representative of a newly united
formally defined thedogma of the Im- people.
maculate Conception and now he brought
; When Victor Emmanuel came to the
together the great dignitaries of the Quirinal he was the most popular figure
whole Catholic world, that they might in Pius IX. even had a secret
Italy.
i
'in with him in asserting the infallibility liking forhim and it is said that when
;
of the Vicar of Christ upon earth. The the lie galantuomo lay dying in the
dogma was thus expressed: "We teach palace which he had taken from the
Pope, and the Pope himself was con- siastical estates, obliging the priesthood
fined to his bed, and knew that his last to military service ; but immediately
hour was not far off, his priestly heart wrote to the Pope letters of supplica-
yearned excommunicated
towards the tion, saying that he was constrained, and
son of the Church. called to him a He promised to do all lie could to attenuate
run'' of the apostolic palace, and said, the effects of these measures. Pius IX.
"Monsignore, take a carriage and go
directly to the Quirinal ; there present
yourself in my name, and
beg to speak to
the King. I give you full power to re-
lieve him from all the condemnations."

The prelate was so astonished that
the Pope had to repeat his order before
he would go to execute it. But he had
no sooner arrived at the Quirinal than he
was sent back. The ministers, the
aides-de-camp, the physicians, all pre-
vented him from arriving at the Kiug's
bedside. It is said that the old Pope
turned uneasily on his couch, and said,
" Ah, the unhappy creatures! they wish
to arrest the pardon of God and this ;
poor culpable King is no more free in

his death-bed than he was on the throne.
If ever 1 regretted not being able to get

about the streets of my city of Rome it
is now. I wish I had the force to get

up. I would go to the Quirinal myself,
and 1 would see whether I should not be
"
let in !
But this movement of charity, as the

Catholic world thought it, indicated no
weakening of papal sentiment towards

the House of Savoy. Pius IX. liked to
depict Victor Emmanuel II. as a good VICTOR EMMANUEL AND PRINCE HUMBERT
Catholic, who was compelled by a host
AT THE QUIRINAL.
of wicked people surrounding him to do
disagreeable things to the Church. He sometimes called the King the " great
was fond of speaking of the sovereign breast-beater," because he liked to
as a gay and sensual gentleman, who picture him in the attitude of the peni-
was in his secret heart a bit of a bigot, tent who strikes upon his bosom, anil
and who invoked at least three times a says " Mea culpa! men culpa!" when
day St. Andrew of Aveline. It was the evil is done.
said that the monarch signed the decrees It was impossible for a man like
expelling the Jesuits, suppressing the Pius IX. to divest himself of the influ-
religious orders, confiscating the eccle- ence of his surroundings, and so he

412 El'ROVE IN STORM AND CALM.
could not believe and

that the wise claiming that their country had reached
generous King, whose great heart was the stature of a tirst-class power.
filled with such a burning flame of love Under Victor Emmanuel's reign the
for his country, could raise himself by a noble and self-sacrificing Mazzini died,
majestic effort, and one which will render at Pisa, and his funeral, at Genoa, was
his name immortal, above the tradition attended by more than eighty thousand
and the petty prejudices in which he had people. The country was not unmindful
been raised, ami affront the mighty in its happy days of those who had
anger of Koine, witli the serene con- worked so industriously in varying paths
sciousness of one who felt that he was and by widely diverse methods for its
doing a duty which, although it might unification, and beautiful monuments
he disagreeable for a time, was necessary were erected to the memory of Cavour
to the safety of the State- and to Mazzini in Turin and Home.
Victor Emmanuel enjoyed the last The history of Italy, from the estab-
vears of his life to the full. He looked lishment of the national capital at Rome
back upon his friendship with Cavour until Victor Emmanuel's death, was full
with pride and tender affection. Per- of instances of devotion to the memory
haps lie regretted now and then the of patriots.
necessities of his political situation, Victor Emmanuel died in January of
which had made him the opponent of 1878, after a brief illness, and a great
so great and so energetic a patriot as sadness fell upon the peninsula. There
Garibaldi; but, with one son called to were few Liberal Italians who would
the throne of Spain, and his own parlia- have ventured
to say that he had
ment installed in the Eternal City, which not been good King.
a " He was,"
had so long been the Mecca of his savs a French writer, " in appearance
hopes with his family about him in the
; like an ancient Cimbrian chief, who
Quirinal, — he had every desire to lie possessed what he had by right of con-
courteous and conciliatory in his rela- quest. He was patient and resolute,
tions witli tin' Holy See. a clever and dexterous politician, and
In his capacity of sovereign of a new daily gave proof of rare, sagacity. With
ami powerful nation he felt it his duty his vast shoulders, his Herculean limbs,
to make visits abroad; and his journeys his face, with its irregular and fero-
to Vienna and Berlin in 1873 doubtless cious lineaments, he was striking and
had much to do with the formation, some impressive in uniform, with his helmet
years later, of the alliance between on his huge head. With his lofty and
North Germany and Austria, and did majestic carriage, his sparkling eyes,
something to weaken the hostility which and especially in battle, he was quite
hail so lon;j; existed between invaded fine." Even his Catholic enemies
Italy and invading Austria. In 1*7."> speak enthusiastically of his .soldierly
the Emperor of Austria went even to qualities. A Catholic writer has said
Venice, which had been so recently taken of him that "he knew little of literature,
out of his grasp, and in the same year and was hardly interested in art, finding
the old Emperor of Germany went to '

those things.' as he called them, in-
Milan. The beautiful northern city was compatible with the trade of arms or
resplendent for a week, and the Italian the exercise of the chase. But he had
public blustered a little in those days, the temperament of his race, the foxes
of Savoy. He excelled in bringing of a hero: 'I -am covered with

out the resources of his good sense, wounds,' when he had only been
when he was among his ministers, touched upon the thigh. . . . He
whom he treated as he pleased, like was no mediocre monarch. He knew
most of the constitutional sovereigns how to make his homely visage gra-
who have had councils thrust upon cious, amiable, and almost handsome
them. On the field of battle lie main- His voice was now rude, now tender.
tained a noble attitude, in spite of his Huge and portly, he knew how to take
Hun-like heaviness. He was rather too on soldierly or royal manners, accord-
fond of boasting of his military ex- ing to the person whom he was desir-
ploits. He would say, with the accent ous of impressing."
414 EUROPE IS STORM ASD CALM.
CHAPTER FORTY-FOUR.
The Pope Vatican.— The Daily Life of Leo XIII. —Its Picturesque, Spiritual, ami Political Aspects.
at the
I the AVar Between the Vatican and the Quirinal. The Aims and Ambitions —
oftheCathol Italy. Evolution or R —
-Prophecies of the Catholics. "Unre- —
deemed I
THEVictor Emmanuel's
nation Italian
mortal
insisted
remains
that States. Not long ago
to build a royal railway train
was determined
and when
it
should be laid in the Pantheon, that the King saw the jealousy awakened in
splendid building which stands among the different sectii - of the peninsula
the ruins of old Rome as the particular as '
tht establishment which should
jewel of ancient architecture ; an have the privilege of constructing the
the monarch is entombed under the - train, he arranged it so that some portion
mighty roof that shelters the gentle of the eqt _ should be built in each
Raphael. To the throne of Italy came part of Italy where railway works were
Prince rmberto. who. at first much located.
criticised, and treated perhaps with S _ has a civil list of about
mild suspicion by certain factions of his 15. Oi e. a modest fortune for a
people, has known how to win the af- - \ creign : and to this is
fections of the nation, and at times added 100, franc- or lire, for the ex-
to merit their enthusiastic applause. penses of representation. This is less
1 grit in these sons of than is allowed to the President of the
mauuel ; in the stately, pale- ch Republic. The family gave up
faced Prince Amadeo, who was bravo all i'.s private domains to the country in
a :
to put away from him the crown - - . When the King or members
of Spain when tie saw that he could not his family travel from place to place
- ct retain it and in this
: in Italy, all the expenses of journey
equally stately and equally pah -

and residence are paid by the nation.
King L"mbi ly seut his King I'uiberto specially likes the Quir-
pliments to the Pope on the day that he inal. not because his residence there is a
leached the throne, and who stood up - _ Rome, but

of the victory over
in his father's tracks with as much t - cause he passed many happy years there
and ss as if he had practised the fore he took responsibili-
attitude for years. ties upon his shoulders.
King Umberto and Queen Margherita This Quirinal Palace was built for the
have already on : popes, and has been a favorite residence
5. get is. ud kindly deeds. of the tenants of Peter's chair since
Their chief aim is I the time : '

gory XIII. It has a
power to consolidate th tl unity : court-yard surrounded with a por-
and even in lit js t e new king is tico, a magnificent royal hall, the
'ul of the opinion of his various ••

Pauline Chapel." in which the cardi-
nals used to assemble in conclave, and present his homage to the King ; but, lie
where they were wont to vote for the elec- declined.

tion of the Popes. In this palace died Pius The new Pope had to wait many years
VII. and here he was made a prisoner
; for a Cardinal's hat, which he had well
v order of Napoleon I., when that
1 > won by his services to the Church in
energetic conqueror had had the papal Belgium, and other northern countries,
doors smashed open by blows from for Cardinal Antonelli, who had such
axes. powerful influence over Pius IX., was
Pius IX. escaped from this palace in hostile to this grave, studious, ascetic
disguise in Here was also the
1849. Archbishop Pecci. Gregory XVL, the
private chapel of the Pope, in which is predecessor of Pius IX., had been ready
one of the finest works of Guido. The to givehim the cardinalate iu 1846 nit ; 1
Pauline chapel was deconsecrated by the when Pius IX. came in, he made the Arch-
Pope on the evening of the entry of the bishop, who was meantime installed iu
Italian army into Rome, and on the Perugia, wait many years.
same night the priceless pictures and After Antonelli's death Cardinal Pecci
tapestries were carried away to the rapidly came into prominence and in ;
Vatican. the autumn of 1877, when the rumor of

There is a new Pope at the Vatican. the death of Pius IX. was spread abroad
but there is no new policy there. The in Rome every morning, Pecci's name
able and aggressive ecclesiastic who was constantly mentioned as a probable
succeeded to Pius IX. accepted the successor. He had been made a kind of
legacy of the dead prelate; and Papal vice-pope while the holy see was vacant
Rome is as unbending in its attitude as during the illness of Pius IX., and every
it was under Victor Emmanuel. Leo morning his enemies and friends expected
XIII., as he chose to call himself, because to see him come down from his apart-
he had a great veneration for Leo XII.. ments to strike his mallet upon the fore-
would in any station of life have been a head of the dead Pontiff, and address to
remarkable man. His originality and him the consecrated formula: " Dost
his firmness of will are unbounded. thou not sleep?"
When he was Archbishop of Perugia "When on the 9th of February, 187S,
lie came into collision with Victor Pius IX. died, there was little endeavor
Emmanuel, who was then beginning to made to intrigue against the man who
extend the Liberal influence of the Savoy seemed so clearly destined for the succes-
Monarchy into Italy. A royal decree dis- sion to the chair. The Cardinal was very
persed the members of certain religious modest, and seemed half inclined to re-
orders in the diocese, whereupon the fuse the great dignity ; but when, after
archbishop wrote a letter to the King, the numerous votes in the College of
protesting in the most vigorous language Cardinals, after all the votes of polite-
against the repeated insults to the holy ness, as they are called, according to the
religion,and alluding to the miserable Italian custom, had been made, around
condition to which the new policy was Cardinal Pecci's name the necessary
reducing the monkish fraternity. When votes for the election were grouped ; so
Victor Emmanuel arrived at Perugia, iu the additional questions were asked him,
1869, the Archbishop was invited, with and he replied: "I think myself un-
the civil and military authorities, to worthy of the supreme magistracy, but
—
4i c» EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
as the Holy College seems to be agreed, from one end to the other. " The friend
I must submit to the will of (iod. In was amused at this, and put him to the
remembrance of Leo XII., for whom I test whereupon the Pope recited pas-
;
have always professed a great venera- sage after passage in a deep, melodious
tion, I wish to be called Leo XIII." voice, evidently with great delight. In
Then the first deacon, appearing in the some of his encyclical letters there is
exterior loge of the Church of .St. Peter, the stamp of Dante's style. When he
uttered the solemn words, which an- was archbishop of Perugia he wrote
nounced to the Romans the election of a much poetry, now in Latin, now in
new Pope : Italian.
" Annunlio ruin's gaudium magnum. If the Pope is to lie considered as
Papam habemus Eminentiss. ac-Mev- prisoner to the wicked Italian governr
erindis. Domin. Cardin. Pecci electus ment it must be allowed that he has a
est in Summum Pontificem, et elegit sibi splendid prison. The great Vatican
nomen Leo XIII." cluster of palaces and museums has
Leo XIII. is tall, and as lean as a monk more than thirteen thousand rooms,
of the old Thebaid. Ilis white robe twenty vast courts, eight state stairways,
floats loosely about his almost flesbless and an infinite number of halls, galleries,
limbs. It is sometimes said of him that chapels, corridors, libraries, and muse-
he is the image of Voltaire but, while ;
ums. The Sistine Chapel and the Vatican
the expression of his face is not unlike Library, the Loggie of Raphael, and the
that of the great philosopher and sceptic, picture and sculpture gallery form cer-
it has less of malice and of sarcastic tainly a noble residence for a scholar and
vigor, more of stern determination, a priest.
tempered by the indefinable sweetness The present Pope leads a laborious
which seems inseparable from the priestly life, like all his predecessors. He rises
expression, and is doubtless born of at six o'clock, and after a hasty toilet
purity of life and temperate manners. engages in devotions. At half-past
Leo XIII. in private life is simple, affec- seven he goes to his particular chapel,
tionate, amiable, witty ; his face is pale, where he celebrates mass. On .Sunday a
but his eyes are deep, clear, and, small congregation is admitted, and he
despite his advanced age, sparkling. He distributes the Eucharist. He next at-
is not an orator, like Pius IX., but he is tends a second mass, after which he re-
a clever writer ; in the presence of a turns to his private apartments, where
crowd of listeners he would be troubled. he breakfasts alone, very quickly and
Pius IX. was a real orator, taking his modestly.
inspiration from the throng. Whether The part of the Vatican which has
he writes in Latin or in Italian, the new been specially devoted to papal residence
Pope is thoroughly master of his pen. since the sixteenth century overlooks St.
He is a statesman who lias been well Peter's square. In it there is a monu-
nourished in controversial law, and who mental staircase, having two hundred
likes polemics. He is fond of Dante and ninety-nine steps in white marble.
and delighted at any new discovery of which serves the halls in the three stories.
an ancient and rare edition of the great Here is the famous "Swiss Guard,"
Florentine, lie said one day to a friend : which still wears the motley garb adopted
"I can recite the ' Divina Commedia' by it in the middle ages.
On the first floor is the " Hall of the After the return of the Popes from
Consistory," where the Pope consults their temporary home at Avignon, in
the cardinals on the affairs of the church. the closing years of the fourteenth cen-
At the end of this hall is the pontifical tury, they adopted the Vatican as their
throne. Through a series of antecham- permanent residence. Gregory XL
bers one reaches the private offices of liked the pontifical palace because of the
the Pope; and here is the hall of the neighborhood of the Castle of St.
noble guard, composed of eighty mem- Angelo, which he thought afforded the
bers of the nobility, com-
manded by a Roman prince.
Their uniform is that of the
garde (hi car/is of Louis
XVIII. Formerly this guard
accompanied the Pope in all
ceremonies ; but now that he
goes out but little, the insti-
tution is falling into decay.
The " throne hall " is used for
allofficial receptions. Beyond

are the private apartments,
the bedrooms the dining-
rooms, and the library of the
great head of the Church.
There is little harmony, and
not much exterior splendor, in
this group of palaces and mu-
seums, famous throughout ATTENDANTS AND OFFI-
the civilized world
but so ; CIALS AT THE VATI-
many traditions cluster about CAN.
the Vatican, so many histor-
ical souvenirs are evoked by papal court greater se-
it, that not even the most curity than it enjoyed
prosaic traveller sees it with- elsewhere. Each Pope
out a thrill. In the old seems to have done all
palace attached to the Basilica that the resources of his
of St. Peter, which
is said to have dated treasury allowed to beautify and improve
from the time of Constantine, Charle- this head-quarters of the hierarchy of the
magne resided when he came to Rome to Christian world. Sixtus the IV. built
be crowned by Leo and Pope Inno-
III., the Sistine Chapel; Innocent VII f. the
cent III. entertained one of the kings Belvedere ; the great Julius II. the cel-
of Arngon in the palace which succeeded ebrated " Loggie," the terraces, and laid
to this primitive one. For more than a the foundations of the Vatican museum.
thousand years the Popes lived in the Itwas he who placed iu this museum the
Lateran Palace, to which good Catholics Laocoon, the Apollo, and the Cleopatra,
suspect the present Italian government ruder Raphael's direction Leo X. fin-
of a wish to transfer them again. ished the Loggie. Sixtus V. spoiled the
41S EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
unity of Bramante's plan by building the state staircase was finished, and the re-
Vatican Library across the architect's ception-rooms were made superb with
rectangle. It was the same Pope who f reset >cs.
began the imposing palace on the easl Thus, for four centuries, the Popes
side dt' the remit of the Loggie, which is have delighted to leave behind them, as
now the ordinary residence of the Popes. their especial monuments, the practical
Urban VIII. ordered the construction of execution of their ideas as to the enrich-
the Scala Eegia ('lenient XIV. and Pius
; ment of the sacred palace. It is said
VI. built the fine ranee of rooms over the that l.eo XIII. has conceived the idea
of devoting all his spare
leisure to the creation of
a magnificent monument
commemorative of the
extraordinary pontificate
of Tins IX. The plan
has lone been in process
of elaboration, and the
most distinguished sculp-
tors in the kingdom have
been consulted about it.
Each of the great acts

of the reign of Pius IX.
are, it is said, to lie illus-
trated by allegorical mar-

ble groups.
The division of the
Pope's laborious day will
lie full of interest to all.
After his meagre fust

breakfast, — which heal-
most invariably takes
alone, although now and
TOPE LEO XIII. IX Ills' PRIVATE CABINET then, as a special favor,
which makes infinite
museum named after them; Pius VII. gossip in Koine, he has one or two
added the wing which covers part of the friends near liini while he partakes of
celebrated terrace Leo X. founded a
;
his simple repast, — he g<ies to work
picture-gallery, which Gregory XVI. as systematically as the most ener-
finished and this latter pontiff in-
: getic man of business. At half-past
augurated the Etruscan Museum. Pius nine he receives the Cardinal Sec-
IX. was never weary of contributing to retary, of State, then the Cardinals
the splendor of the Vatican. Under his who are prefects of congregations, the
reign the Loggie were enclosed in glass, Secretary of Latin Letters, the Sec-
thus saving Raphael's frescoes from the retary of the Uriel's, and the Princes;
ravages of weather; the picture-gal- finally such persons as are admitted
leries were greatly improved, the grand to the honor of a special interview.
On Mondays, and sometimes on Thurs- must withdraw. Upon this she began
days, he gives public receptions, a with greater volubility than ever.
ceremonial which is familiar to thou- " Holy Father."
sands of American and English travel- "What will you have more, my
"
lers. Leo XIII. is not so fond of daughter?
these receptions as was Pius IX., al- " My husband has begged me to
though the latter prelate sometimes give you his photograph."

found his patience almost exhausted "Very well; I accept it. Thank him
by the infinite number of questions as on my part."
well as the great number of compli- "But, Holy Father" —
ments hurled upon him by
the enthusiastic visitors.
Anything that causes the
present Pope a loss of
time fatigues and annoys
him. He is not fond
of making addresses to
troops of pilgrims or sym-
pathetic Frenchmen, or
penitent Austrians, who
come and bow at his
feet. Pius IX. was more
adroit in his manner of
treating the multitude
than the new Pope can
ever hope to be. The
former had the more
tact ; the latter has the THE POPE RECEIVES
VISITOR.
greater majesty.
A good story is told of
Pius IX., showing how even the successor "What next?"
of Peter may sometimes find his dignity "I would like to take back to my
give way under the pressure of a rude curi- husband your Holiness's photograph."
osity or an indiscreet admiration. One " That is quite right. I will give
day when the Pope was quite weary with you one " which he proceeded to do.
;
a long public reception, a lady who " And now, Holy Fattier, if you
had a special letter of introduction would kindly write your autograph on
knelt before the Pope, begging for his the back of the photograph."
benediction, which he bestowed as " Very well," said the Pope " I will ;
usual. do that also."

The lady entered into a long con- Then he was about to throw down
fession of her many troubles. The the pen with which he had hastily writ-
Pope, who was ready to drop with fa- ten his priestly signature, when the
tigue, tried to console her, and the lady, laying hold of his skirts, said,
more he consoled the more she talked. " Holy Father, there is one thing
until he was compelled to say that he more."
"Indeed!" said the Pope, with a to the head-quarters at Rome reports

shiver of indignation, " what ran it of manners and customs, of agriculture,
be?" industry, commerce, aits, science, let-
"must ask you for the pen with
I ters, politics, and religions.
which you have written the autograph." A bright writer on clerical affairs calls
•'
Very well, take the pen, the ink- the Vatican the most elevated of observ-
stand, and, tor Heaven's sake, go at atories, whence the Pope can note with
once, my good woman," cried the Pope, precision the affairs of Honolulu as well
releasing his skirts and making his way as those of Paris or of St. Petersburg.
to his private apartments. The l'ope listens with attention and
Leo XIII. sometimes invites visitors even witli curiosity to every and
letter
who please him into his private rooms, written or oral report. In him the am-
—a proceeding which doubtless would bition of the Church does not sleep. He
have scandalized the other Popes. It' is as proud of a spiritual victory at-
a delegation of workmen comes to lay tained in Dakota as of one which has
an address at his feet he shows them been won in Germany. He fully appre-
all about, them even into

takes his ciates the Catholic genius for evangeli-
bedroom, chatting on secular and re- zation, and believes that the strength of
ligions matters with the greatest free- hisChurch is in the marvellous discipline
dom, and frequently makes many con- and organization which it is his duty to
verts and friends for life among supervise. The popular Protestant idea
the lower classes in this way. He of a Pope is a mild and genial elderly
speaks French with a strong Italian gentleman, refined in intellect, and of
accent, but with skill and vigor of ex- exalted spirituality, who passes his time
pression. in grand ceremonials, amid clouds of

At half-past two the Pope dines incense and the genuflection of elab-
alone and frugally; then he takes a orately costumed prelates, and whose
little never more than a quarter
naii, leisure is plentiful enough to enable him
of an hour in length his doctors call ; to enjoy the splendors of ancient and
this his '-Armistice," and insist upon modern Koine, by which he is sur-
this daily leisure. As soon as he goes rounded. But the real Pope is, as
out of his private room he recites the we have seen, an active, responsible,
divine office, reads for a short time in energetic head, daily awakening to new
a religious book, and then goes back new crises, new situations, which
duties,
to his duties. At five o'clock he re- demand immediate thought. He has to
ceives the bishops, who always come discuss affairs in Europe, Africa, Ocean-
to bring him the news, and to tell him ica, Asia, and America : and daily,
of troubles which crop up in their after his inferiors come in with their
dioceses; and the secretaries of the reports,and long after they are gone,
various congregations have an endless he over
leans his desk, which is
succession of reports to make. At this heaped with documents and letters and
hour of the day the Pope represents writes, reads, annotates, and muses
a more wide-spread constituency than until half-past ten, when he is summoned
any other ruler in the world. There to a simple supper. Now and then the
are Catholics everywhere, and the supper is cut short by an excess of work,
agents of the Church are daily sending for the Pope goes to bed with military
precision Sometimes his

at eleven. the master of ceremonies to proceed
chamberlain found him, worn out
has with the division of the list of employes
with thought and toil, with his head at the Papal Court.The master of cere-
buried in his hands, asleep at his desk. monies read them off one by one, and
It requires a robust physique and great the Pope was ready with a name to
strength of character to support the con- place opposite each title. lie would
stant and somewhat monotonous round hear of no objections to his choice, and
of daily duties to which a Pope gives his he set aside as useless some of the old-
life when he takes the reins of authority fashioned offices, much to the dismay
into his own hands. and discomfiture of prelates who had
Since the invasion of Rome, as the hoped to have obtained them. He has
Catholics call it, the Pope is not sup- a horror for sinecures, and picks them
posed to leave the Vatican. Pius IX. out with infallible vision, expressing a
adhered sternly to his decision not to keen delight in suppressing them. He
appear in any of the ceremonials once would never make a cardinal, as Pius
so familiar to the populace in the streets IX. is said to have done in the case of a
of Pome ; and the present Pope is his certain French prelate, because "if I
faithful follower in this respect. Exer- had not made a cardinal of him he would
cise, however, he must have, and so he have died of chagrin." The tradition of
gets it, now by pacing one of the great the Vatican is that when a new Pope
corridors of the palace ; now he is taken comes out from the conclave at which
down to the gardens in a sedan chair, be has been elected, he places the cardi-
through the beautiful loggie of Raphael, nal's cap upon the head of the person
past the frescoes of the great " School who served as secretary of the assem-
of Athens " and " The Dispute ;" or now bly ; but Leo XIII. did nothing of the
he drives a little in the shady alleys of the kind, much to the surprise of the Sacred
garden or on the tlanks of the neighbor- College. was a year before the new
It
ing hill. When he goes out he is rarely Pope announced his first promotion in
accompanied by any persons save those the list of cardinals. He cannot be re-
on duty that day, and at a little dis- proached with having insisted upon the
tance a small platoon of the guard, too Italian character of the Sacred Col-
composed of the Roman nobility, which lege, for he has made appointments in
does voluntary service as bis escort. many lands.
In these out-door promenades the Pope The Roman families which claim no-
is never idle. He either recites his bility are devoted to the Vatican ; and it
breviary, be opens and reads his de- is but natural that they should lie so, as
spatches, which he has brought along most of them owe their origin to papal
with him ; or, if he has invited some protection. Thus we are told that the
prelate to accompany him, they talk Albanis got their fortune through Clem-
business and religion. But he always, ent XI. the Aldobraiidinis, through
:
says one who is familiar with the inte- Clement VIII. the Barberinis, through
;
rior of the Vatican, seems anxious to Urban VIII. the Borgheses, through
;
get back to his work. Paul V. the Chigis, through Alexander

;
Leo XIII. is very independent in his VII. ; the Colonnas, through Martin V . ;
choice of functionaries and friends. As the Odescalchis, through Innocent XI. ;
soon as he was made Pope he sent for the Rospigliosis, through Clement IX. ;
and so on ad infinitum. In Roman attention. He is inflexible in his de-

society the cardinals take the first place ; mands for discipline and hard work
princes and dukes come next, and gen- among his followers. It is said that one
erally, says a good authority, in the day a Frenchman, who had just been
order of their creation, with the excep- accorded an interview, said to the priest
tion always of the chiefs of the Colonna who had accompanied him, " How very
and Orsini families, who are hereditary affable the Tope is! Yes." said the
princes, attendant upon the throne, and priest, with a bitter smile, " affable to
who take precedence of all their com- Strangers." This priest had been kept
peers. up all night to study a report with which
Iu two years the Pope had changed he was in arrears.
The notion that the Pope is over-
whelmed with contributions of money
and treasure from all parts of the world,
and that his coffers are overflowing with
Peter's Pence, is said to be a mistaken
one. He talks frequently of the penury
of his resources, and Romans who are
in a position to judge say that he does
not exaggerate his circumstances. He
finds sums for liberal charities, and
perhaps takes a little pleasure in giving
more generously from his own lean purse
than the King, who, as the representative
of the nation, feels compelled to give. A
committee of cardinals was charged by
the Pope, after the hitter's accession to
power, carefully to administer the Peter's
Pence, which was the most important
source of revenue of the Holy See; but
nowadays there are perpetual com-
plaints that it is not sufficient for the
QUEEN OF ITALY. needs of the Vatican. Hundreds, and
even thousands, of useless presents are
his secretary of state twice. He in- made where money would be more
tended, and still intends, to allow no acceptable. The gentlemen of the
one to take in his life the important Roman nobility who are on service at
place which Cardinal Antonelli had the Vatican join with the Pope in some
taken in that of Pius IX., although the noble charities. One Roman prince
latter was generally accredited with gave, in the severe winter of 187D-80,
deciding pretty vigorously for himself seventy-five thousand meals to the poor
on great matters. Pius IX. was not of the capital. The Pope himself, on
verv tolerant on any remonstrance ad- New Year's day of that "winter, gave
dressed him by the College of Cardinals ; 15,000 francs from his private purse to
but the new Pope is open to conviction, charity.
and listens to all with the greatest Although he has reestablished very
carefully all the etiquette of the Papal poral sovereignty of the Pope are said
Court, etiquette which had fallen some- to be somewhat annoyed at the facility
what into decay since 1870, he does not with which the august Pontiff sends his
allow the cardinals to go out in gala views to the public journals, lie often
carriages. The processions are all kept adopts sudden publicity as a way of
carefully within and the
the churches, getting out of a political situation which
tiles of chanting brethren, carrying huge is disagreeable to him.
candles, which follow funeral processions, The programme of the Vatican appears
are almost the only relic of the copious to be susceptible of but little change in
and magnificent Catholic ceremonial, one respect : there will be no recon-
some phase of which was once visible ciliation with the Quirinal ; and this is
hourly Rome.
in
The Pope finds time in the midst of

his apostolate, in the intervals of the
careful study of St. Thomas Aquinas,
for whom he has a veritable passion, and
the spread of whose doctrines he recom-
mends the bishops, to occupy
to all
himself with modern progress. He

writes copiously and freely for two or
three Roman newspapers, which are the
official representatives of the Papal
Court and there was at one time since
;
his accession a grand project for found-
ing a huge newspaper, the size of the

" London Times," to be the official jour-
nal of the Vatican, and to embody in its
many columns every day the epitome of
the Catholic world. It was proposed
that this novel journal should be printed
ina dozen languages but the scheme ;
was given up altogether as extensive and

expensive. KING OK ITALY.
Not long ago the Pope founded an
academy for the study of Roman law the reason given by the Catholic authori-
and philosophy, ecclesiastical law, and ties : In the first place, alter his election,
comparative civil legislation. The grand Leo XIII. took a solemn oath upon the
polyglot academy session, which was Gospels, in the presence of the Sacred
held at the Vatican in April, 1S80, will College, according to the constitution
not soon be forgotten. It brought to- and the canons, that he would not abdi-
gether forty-nine different languages, cate the rights of the Holy See and the
all of which were well spoken by the domain of St. Peter; and, furthermore,
representatives of the Catholic faith in the present King of Italy does not
eve^ quarter of the world. The diplo- possess the authority to restore the
mats who are sent to the Papal Court by Papal States. With this point of view
countries which still recognize the tem- established in the Catholic mind, it is
;
424 EUROl'K IN STORM AND PALM.
evident that little progress can be made, lies to vote and work with the Republicans
Leo Xlll.'s plan of action is summed up for the upsetting of this monarchy. They
in the winds: ••Neither concession nor hail every revolution and disorder as a.
provocation." The Holy See considers step forward towards the emancipation
the temporal power as an inherent part of Rome ;
yet they might have seen, by
of the Constitution of the Church from events in France in 1871, that a social-
the earliest dawn of Christianity. Its istie and radical revolution may lie put
own historians say that the Popes became down without destroying a. republic,
sovereigns without, knowing how they They say that Italian unity has profited
became so ; that an invisible law raised none but the middle or bourgeois class
up the Roman See; and that the chief that the country is going straight from
of the Roman Universal Church is evolution to revolution; that the re-
born a sovereign. They scoff at the sources of the kingdom are all absorbed
•'
law of guarantees," which "established by taxation; that the constant agitation
the official between the new
relations in favor of the " unredeemed provinces,"
kingdom and the Holy See." They say as the radical patriots call Savoy. Nice,
that it is a law imposed by the con- Corsica. Malta. Tunis, Tyrol, and the
queror upon the conquered, and that, Tessino, will he a powerful aid in bring-
although it accords the Pope sovereign ing about a revolution ; that the Italians,
honors, and assigns him a civil list of instead of saying in the noble woi'ds of
several millions of francs (which neither Mazziui: "God and People" (Dio e
the present Pope nor Pius IX. would popolo), now put an accent over thee, and
accept), it is perilous and irreligious in say- "God is the people" (Dio <'•
popolo)
its action. The retreat of Pius IX. to They speak of the Republican manifesta-
ble Vatican was therefore necessitated tions and festivities in recent years at
by the loss of his independence, and his Genoa, Bologna, Rimini, Ancona, and
successors must follow his exile until — Turin, and prophesy that it will not he
Until what? The Catholic view of the long before King Humbert will have to
situation in Italy is. that, in process of convokes constituent assembly, in which
time, a radical and republican revolution the destiny of the Italian nation will he
will sweep away the House of Savoy, decided.
and that then the people will proceed This view of the intelligent and amhi-
to excesses which will necessitate tious Catholics of Italy is worthy of
intervention, a return to royalty, and careful note. Perhaps a portion of their
the rcestahlishuient of all the Papal prophecy will be fulfilled ; hut it is not
privileges This conviction is so fixed probable that in our day the temporal
in the minds of many Catholics of power will he restored to the chief of
Italy that they not only make no secret the Church at the Vatican, or wherever
of it, hut have holillv urged the Catho- else he may choose his residence.
—
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. t25
CHAPTER FORTY-FIVE.
The German Parade on Longchamps. — The Triumphal Entry Into Paris. Shadows of Civil War. —
Outbreak of " La Commune." — The Greatest Insurrection of Modern Times — Its 'auses and Its (
Hopes. — The Association of the Generals. — The First Fights. — The Manifestation of the "Friends
of Order."
WHILE the French Assembly was tain quarters containing threats against
agonizing at Bordeaux over the the lives of those who sold anything to
odious articles of the treaty of peace, Germans, or were seen speaking to them.
King William of Prussia and his suite Black and long streamers of mourn-
flags
were passing in review the Sixth and the ing were everywhere displayed. The
Eleventh Prussian corps, and the remains statues of Strasbourg, Metz, Lille, and
of the Second Bavarian corps, on the the sister cities in the grand Place de la
green sward at Longchamps. King Wil- Concorde, were veiled and masked with
liam had been over this ground twice crape, and here great barriers were
lief ore in his life, as a conqueror in LSI 1- erected at the streets into which the Con-
15, and as a visitor in 18G7, when sixty vention did not allow the Germans to
thousand of the flower of the French penetrate. The German troops did not
troops marched past him. pass under the Triumphal Arch, which
A little less than thirty thousand tier- bad been surrounded with a barrier of
mans participated in the review. The iron chains, as if to intimate that no
old monarch was stationed near the German could soil the sacred earth by
mined race-stand and on Long- seats his 'presence.The inarch called ••The
champs, which had been entered by the Entry of Paris," which was played by
Trocadero and Passy route, and by the the regimental bands, was first heard in
long and brilliant Avenue de 1' Impera- the Champs Elysees in 1814, when the
trice. The King and the Crown Prince, victorious Allies entered.
however, returned to Versailles, making Bismarck came in, almost unperceived,
no attempt to enter Paris at the head of in a little caleche, and, muffled in a huge
their troops in the style supposed to be gray cloak, went to the barriers of the
traditionally fit for conquerors. The Place de la Concorde.
strict observance of Article III. of the One of the most pathetic episodes of
conditions of peace was continued, so as the occupation of Paris was the invasion
1 > avoid all danger of collision between of the Hotel des Invalides. Doubtless
the Prussians and the Parisians. The there was a little malice on the part of
mass of the German army cared very the Germans in stipulating for this priv-
little about the ;
-
triumphant entry." ilege. The haughty invader was glad to
Paris was in universal mourning on this penetrate the old sanctuary of military
1st of March a black day for Frenchmen
; glory around Napoleon's tomb, where
to count from and to swear against. some of his aged heroes, toothless, and
There were but few cannon in the streets. but poorly provided with legs and arms,
Proclamations had been posted in cer- were still lingering above ground. Swag-
gering officers in black and red, with evacuated by the Germans, should at-
their white gloves and their gala swords, tempt to take these cannon, why might
interrogated the old invalids concerning itnot be suspected of designs upon the
the flags in the chapel, and probed the Republic? The logic was not very good,
carvings around the great Emperor's but the Communists from the first pro-
tomb with their weapons. This was an claimed their suspicions that M. Thiers
overwhelming measure of vengeance, and and his government meant to bring hack
so the old French heroes thought. an empire or a monarchy. Early in
No doubt there were some excesses March they issued a proclamation say-
committed during the short occupation. ing ••
: The central committee of the Na-
Paul ile St. Victor has said of the Prus- tional (iuard, nominated
an assembly in
sian, taking his inspiration from the of delegates representing more than two
portrait of Attila in the old chronicle: hundred battalions, announces as its mis-
• lie is frank or crafty, just or unjust, sion the constitution of a Republican fed-
temperate or dissolute, humane or cruel, eration of the National ( iuard, organized
according to his interests ;
" and, it might so as to protect the government better
be added, according to his prejudices. than permanent armies have done up to
The German soldiers certainly did much the present time, and to defend the men-
mischief and damage in certain houses aced Republic by all possible means."
where they were quartered in Paris; but The collision came. The government
it turned out afterwards that these houses made its attack on the bluff of Mont-
were owned by political or literary per- martre, to take the cannon of which the
sonages who had been especially dis- National (iuard was anxious to maintain
agreeable to ( rermany. possession. The positions were sur-
The outbreak of the Communal Insur- rounded by a battalion of chasseurs-d,-
rection came swiftly after the departure pied and another from the One Hundred
of the Germans. On the great plain at and Twenty-second regiment of the line,
the top of Montmartre, near the old sig- taken by General Faidherbe's army. The
nal tower of the aerial telegraph, were streets near by were occupied by line
parked a large number of cannon, which regiments, and there were mitrailleuse
the National iuard had hauled up thither
( batteries in all the labyrinth of sideways
Cor safe-keeping. All around them they and by-ways of dubious reputation which
had built barricades to protect them, and covered Montmartre's side. It is needless
many of the cannon were pointed towards to recite the history of the conflict, which
the centre of Paris. The National (iuard resulted in a defeat of the liners. The
threatened vengeance if these weapons movement for carrying away the cannons
were disturbed by Chanzy, or any other was stopped with a vigorous assault. An
of the Generals whose troops were now immense disorganized body of the Na-
arriving in Paris, fresh from the fields tional (iuard rushed down upon the liners,
where they had met. and fraternized with them. Many of the
Here was the easy pretext for an open regular troops were demoralized because
rebellion of the National Guard. If their government was lost, and the revo-
the General Government, which had re- lution was practically declared.
turned from Bordeaux to Versailles, and General Vinov was hissed at. and was
appeared likely to establish the capital obliged to retire hastily. The National
of the country in the old city so recently Guard organized a meeting ; and while
"
EUROPE IN STORM ANT) CALM. i-n
they were deliberating, an immense crowd The agitation spread quickly to Belleville
of men, women, and children blocked and the Faubourg St. Antoine, and the
the passage of the cannon which the Place de la Bastille was covered with the
government artillerymen were vainly en- rebel troops.
deavoring to move to a place of safety. The funeral procession of Victor Hugo's
"While this was going on, the battalions son Charles was stopped in the Rue St.
of Belleville came puffing and steaming Antoine by a revolutionary committee
into the fight, hot with a rapid march. engaged on a barricade, who announced
The Montmartre rebels retired, the newly that it could go no farther. Towards
THE TOP OF MONTMARTRE WHERE THE COMMUNIST CANNON WERE

INSTALLED.
arrived took their places, and a struggle 3 o'clock placards were posted announc-
began ; officers were beaten any man; ing that the riot was in possession of the
who raised his sword as if to command Montmartre, Belleville, and Faubourg
was shot at. Many of the government St. Antoine quarters. In the heart of
soldiers turned up the butts of their the city one heard that a " court-martial
muskets in token of adhesion to the was judging General Le Comte the old ;
Revolution. The shooting grew more General Clement Thomas, commander

frequent and violent many persons were
; of the National Guard of the city, was
wounded in the cafes and houses. Several a prisoner. An hour later came the story
soldiers were slain ; finally the line troops that they had been foully assassinated
mutinied, and a whole squadron of gen- without a chance of justifying themselves,
darmes was surrounded and imprisoned. by unknown persons, who compelled the
soldiers of tlic line to shoot them. Both The second important event in this
Generiil Thomas and Genera! Le ('unite greatest insurrection of modern times
were taken to a small house in the Rue occurred on the 23d of March, when the
des Uozicrs at. four o'clock that afternoon, •• Friends of Order," as they called them-
and, without the semblance of a trial, selves, went, in long procession down the
were dragged into a garden, tied together, Rue de la Paix to the Place VendAme.
and fired General Le Comte was
upon. to reason with the rebels, who had there
killed at hall which struck him

once by a established their head-quarters. Many
behind the ear; General Thomas was not people considered this foolhardy attempt
wounded by the first discharge, and when as a lSonapartist trick, and refused for
the second lilled him with his death wound, this purpose to associate themselves with
he cried out ••Cowards!" and waited it. The day was line, the sunshine rest-
tranquilly for the finishing stroke. ing upon the white fronts of the noble
At live o'clock on the afternoon of this buildings in the Pile de la Paix. and on
fated 18th of March the insurgents were the bronze Pegasus upspringing from the
in full possession of the Hotel de Yillc roof of the new opera. Thousands of
The ministries of war and justice in the ladies and gentlemen had gathered ill
Place Vendoine and the regular govern- this square in front of the Grand Opera,
ment had hut one resource, that of retir- and were looking curiously towards the
ing speedily to Versailles, or of falling Place Yendome, where there were four
into the hands of captors who might have rows of shabby-looking sentinels, and
proved severe judges. The Hotel de where grinning cannon, pointed upon
Yille was occupied by three regiments of the gaping crowd of cockneys, could be
the line ; hut the Communists succeeded seen.
in inducing them to retire without fight- The Parisian loves danger and lacks
ing. Hundreds of thousands of people caution; and therefore the thousands
came into the streets, and wandered about who came out to gaze upon the fortified
watching the movements of the Com- camp of the insurrectionists singed for-
munists but none of them was willing
: ward through the boulevards until they
movement was serious.
to believe that the were well into the mouth of the street.
At nine o'clock, the National Guard of Meantime, the great mass meeting of
Belleville were in possession of the whole the-' Friends of Order," held nearby, had
central part of the city, had sent to dispersed, and the masses, shouting
demand the Official Journal, and were " Long live moved down, sweep-
order !"
printing manifestoes of what they had ing all before them. In a few moments
done and proposed to do. They an- the dense mass of men. women, and chil-
nounced the raising of the state of siege. dren, nearly all from the upper ranks of
the convocation of the people of Paris society, were surrounding the insurgents,
for the Communal elections, and guaran- who at once beat their drums. The
teed the security of all citizens. They greatest activity prevailed in the Place
planted the led Hag on the Bastille Yendome. Messengers Wei e seen gallop-
column, took possession of the principal ing off to summon out new battalions,
barracks; and excited foreigners were and new lines of guards sprang into sight
telegraphing in all directions that the from behind the barricades at the rear
Bed Republic would he firmly established of the place. 1 saw the first line of in-
in Paris on the following morning. surgents lift their guns warninglv, and
EUROPE IN STORM ANU CALM. 429
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o
a
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a
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430 EUROPE L\ STORM AND CALM.
then retire as if frightened. While women and the yells of frightened men
standing at the corner of the Rue des resounded everywhere. The blow had
Petits Champs, which gave a direcl view fallen, the Revolution was in earnest,
upon the scene, I was amazed to see a and the people of the aristocratic classes
whole line of sentinels suddenly envel- were now thoroughly convinced of it.
oped in the crowd. The gentlemen waved About twenty men remained lying
their hats in the air; ladies waving their upon the ground, and were at once
parasols and handkerchiefs cried out. surrounded by the insurgents, who ex-
" Hurrah fororder Lay down your anus,! amined them. Ambulance men came
and lei us lie friends!" At this moment out from their ranks, and the dead were
there was a discharge of musketry ; but carried away on stretchers. Many
I saw that there was no confusion, and people had received wounds in the
fancied (hat some of the frightened in- arms and legs, but were able to get
surgents had fired in the air. Suddenly home. In ten minutes after the dead
a second sharp rattling volley ran out, were removed the cannon were brought
one or two cries of •• Cowards and assas- up to the entrance of the Place Veu-
sins ! '"
were heard, and a general panic dome, and Sentinels were pushed for-
ensued. A
few bullets rallied on the ward into the Rue de la Pais. The in-
wall at. the corner where 1 stood. One dignation among the Friends of Order
wounded man was brought from the was so great that many returned along
crowd into a side street, two rioters fol- the bloody pavements and shook their
lowing, andclaiminghimas their prisoner, lists in the faces of the soldiers. Num-
and that he had tired upon them, lie bers of these people were arrested, and
was in the uniform of a Captain of Mo- a commission of examination was at
biles, and was evidently dying. His once instituted in one of the buildings
face was deathly pale, and the foam was in the Place Vendome.
at his lips. Little quarrels immediately One man dead for two hours in
lay
sprang up all around. Well-dressed front of a chemist's on the Rue de la
gentlemen took away a musket from one Paix. He had evidently been instantly
of the insurgents, and menaced him with killed, and was forgotten in the metie
the contents of it if he did not return of picking up, as the rebels were con-
into his own lines. The cries became stantly expecting an attack from the
louder. People who were hastily putting National Guard of the quarter. An
up the shutters in all the shops and American from St. Louis was also
hotels along our street, even to the cor- killed by shots from the rioters. The
nel' where the Bellevillians stood, joined celebrated banker Hottinguer, while
in the outcry. Five minutes before, our caring for a wounded man. was hit
street had been filled with flying people; in the chest. General Sheridan was
five minutes after, it was silent as the an eye-witness of the affair, and, ac-
grave. The red-white-and-blue Han, cording to his testimony and that of
the tlag of France, was brought towards many others, it would seem that the
the line, bayonets and sabres were agi- insurgents certainly received consider-
tated violently in the air. the flag was able provocation to lire. Many of the
torn down, and another discharge, this men of order had revolvers in their
time louder and more effectual, occurred. pockets, and that they were used in
Then the crowd lied, and the screams of the milie is certain, because some of
the Bellevillians were killed, aud many Place sanctioned the removal of the
were wounded. body for which we came and as ; the
The Rue Neuve des Petits Champs little procession, with a flag at its head,
was occupied by a large force, and went out, all the insurgents doffed their
sentinels were placed before each door hats.
to guard against any surprise on the There were fresh alarms daily, but no
part of the infuriated battalion, which, more fighting. For many days after the
having had one taste of blood, seemed retirement of Admiral Saisset to Ver-
discontented without more. The in- sailles the people of the central quarter
surgents gave me a soldier to accom- of Paris thought they were at the
mercy of
pany me to the head of the Rue de la the Red Republicans, and was that there
Paix, and on our way we walked nothing to do but to compromise the
around a pool of fresh blood. The situation. They dreaded an attack by
sentinels farther on had already as- the government from Versailles, when'
sumed the revolutionary style. "Pas- great masses of troops were assembling
ses, citoyen," said each one; and I as fast as they could be returned from
gained the invaded quarter in safety. Germany; and a friend remarked tome,
All the insurgents witli whom I talked a few days after the collision in the Rue
seemed sorry that a collision had oc- de la Paix, that the advance columns of
curred, and some announced their opin- General Ducrot's forces along the Sevres
ion that it had injured the cause. road would cause more fear and trem-
On the following Friday morning I bling in the capital than the advent of the
went with the American Consul aud Prussians did. We now and then heard
other Americans to the Place Venddme great booming of cannon in the Prussian
to claim the body of our countryman lines, and the Communists claimed that
who had been killed. We were readily these guns were fired in mockery of thedis-
admitted, and found the greatest calm sensions of the French, — an interpreta-
prevailing in the Place; and an immense tion which was of course absurd. As for
number of insurgents was gathered the Prussians, they were well satisfied with
there. We were ushered into the the season of rest which had arrived and ;
Credit Mobilier, transformed into a hos- at St. Denis, at Knghien, at Montmo-

pital, and there saw five dead bodies, rency, and at all the suburbs in the
two of which were pointed out by the northern sections, they were most com-
insurrectionists as belonging to their fortably installed. At night the bivouac
movement. One was a line, stalwart tires of the outposts were plainly visible
man, with flowing beard, but coarsely from the walls of Paris. Every railway
dressed iu blue garments, with a blue on the main lines had a Prussian in-
sash around his waist. lie was shot spector, who never thought of allowing
twice in the back of the head with a train to start until its passengers had
revolver bullets, and we were told that been carefully examined. The difference
it was the first victim in the collision. in the running-time between Paris and
One man, exceedingly handsome, richly London was increased by one hour de-
dressed, aud young, had been shot voted to the Prussians, at St. Denis. The
also in the head and on his counte-
; Germans kept this line open during the
nance there was a ghastly expression whole insurrection, aud there was never
of terror. The Commandant of the a time, uot even excepting the seven
days' fight, when one could not freely selves,were quite free and easy in their
have left the capital had ho wished to communications with strangers, and
do so. The Parisians, and especially many of the simple workmen, carrying
those possessing large fortunes, began to guns, standing sentries in the Rue de la
disappear. In less than a week after the Paix and on the central boulevards, dis-
shooting in the Rue de la Paix fifteen closed what they thought were the plans-
thousand persons left. Returning from of the Commune to English and Ameri-
the sea-coast through Creil, one day tow- can people, and possibly even to Prus-
ards the close of March, I found at that sians, without the slightest reserve. The-
station about fifty thousand ladies and officers, however, in time forbade con-
gentlemen, all in a state of excitement versation ; but the men only obeyedwhen
which seemed to border on lunacy. The the officers were in sight. The vioandi&res
only passenger on the train besides myself were not the least amusing of the odd
was a Queen's messenger, who got out features of the ( lommunal military forces.
at Creil and took the branch line to Ver- They were usually women of middle age,
sailles. The refugees from Paris set up a scarcely to be classed as handsome, clad
shout when they saw my head at the win- in brown habits, and wearing bonnets
dow of the railway carriage, and several which were a kind of compromise between
gentlemen warned me not to return to the a Phrygian cap and a Tain O'Shanter.
city, as therewas fighting in every street. They excited much sport during the first
and the Terror was shortly to he estab- days of the Commune, before the young
lished. These people were so thoroughly fashionables of the Jockey Club and the
convinced of the truth of what they said boulevards had become frightened, and
that there was no reasoning with them. I when they mercilessly ridiculed every
reached the Northern railway station with- public demonstration of the Commune.
out adventure, and walked down to my The Communal troops generally car-
apartments in the line des Petits Champs ried little red flags stuck in the muzzles
without seeing any evidence whatever of their guns, when they were on t he-
of the insurrection, except the cannon march : and many battalions had ban-
grinning from the barricades in the Place ners with inscriptions signifying that
Yendoine. Paris was for six weeks there- they were the real men of order, etc.
after, with the exception of an occasional These troops suffered from lack of food T
cannonade and a pretty constant clatter and many of them did not sleep in-doors.
of musketry at a distance, more tranquil for a week together; but they were all
that it usually is in spring and early convinced that Paris would win in the
summer. great struggle, and that the cities of the
Presently the situation was clearly de- south would rally to her support. So, in
lined. Versailles had determined to the bright sunshiny days, they managed
besiege and take the rebels of the capi- to subsist on bread and an occasional
tal at no matter what cost of blood and vegetable, and to get along without pay.
treasure. M. Thiers was in an angry The finances of the Commune were not
mood, which was not at all softened by at all flourishing, although they were
the decrees of the Commune against him administered, according to the testimony
and the unrooting of his house in the of so good an authority as the London
Place St. Georges. The new masters of Time*, with the most rigid and absolute
Paris, the citizens, as they called them- honesty, even to the disbursing of a
centime. Jourde, the delegate for the ings at the II6tel de Ville were charac-
financial department, as the Communal terized by considerable decision and
phrase had was a man of genius for
it, capacity for despatch of business. Assi,
finance, and did his work with a swift- a workman of more than average ability,
ness, and manifested an incorrupti- usually presided. He and one of the
bility, in striking contrast with the Generals were the men who saved the
conduct of the officials of the
Empire who had preceded

him. But had the success of
the Commune been prolonged
it is probable that the Social-
ists, who had crept into the
party, would have found
Jourde too good a man for
their purpose.
At the outset of the insur-
rection the National Guard
from the workingmeu's quar-
ters were all very sensitive of
criticism upon their conduct,
and not one of them showed
any disposition to profit by
the power which had been
placed in his hands. The offi-
cers would not allow the men

to enter even the court-yards
of the houses and it was an-
;
nounced by printed proclama-

tions, and in the orders of the
day given to the troops, that
any one detected in the theft
of the smallest article from
house or street would be shot.
One evening when I went to
the Kiosk for my newspapers.
the inarchande was absent,
COMMUNIST TROOPS GOING TO THE FRONT.
and although the latest edi-
tions of the papers were lying
ready to the hand of the passers-by, I said Commune from the dubious policy of at-
who was slouching beside
to a soldier the tacking Versailles, — a course which might
Kiosk, " You appear to be guarding the have resulted in bringing on civil war
newspapers." — " Ah," said the soldier, throughout France.
" there is no occasion for alarm: there On the night before Admiral Saisset
are no thieves here no one would touch
; left for Versailles. Paris was nevermore
the papers were they made of gold." gay and beautiful. Thousands upon
The insurrectionary committee meet- thousands of people thronged the streets.
4.U EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM.
and the great avenues, flooded by the Monarchy was forever lost in France,
pure moonlight, echoed to the laughter and was telling even the Monarchists
and the shouts of the troops, who seemed that they might conspire in vain. It
more as if they were on a pleasure ex- was not until peace with Germany had
cursion than engaged in a military occu- been voted upon that M. Thiers made
pation. But in some of the streets held any definite declarations as to his con-
by the insurgents, one heard the constant version to Republicanism. For the
cry, " Snr In chauss&e, citoyen " (To the Communists, he was, to the latest
middle of the street, citizen); and he moment of the great struggle, a Mon-
who did not get off from the sidewalk archist. They refused to believe in his
was sometimes aided into the street by the professions of faith in the Republic, and
butt of a gun. TheCommune feared that it served their purpose to picture him as
Admiral Saisset's forces might attempt to conspiring to firing back the old monarch-
occupy the principal points in the central ical machinery. His vigorous action
quarter; so they had strong guards at soon brought together, in the villages so
all the important buildings. But when recently evacuated by the Prussian con-
morning came, and they found that the queror, some eighty or ninety thousand
government forces had retreated, the men. Tlie bridge of boats at Sevres
vigilance was relaxed. La Commune at was cut by General Ducrot's order; ar-
once began to bluster and to boast. tillery was planted on the hills far and
On the 26th of March elections were near. With revolution in Paris, in Mar-
held, the Central Committee which had seilles, and m Toulouse, with hundreds
been the soul of the insurrection desiring of thousands of energetic men in Paris
to have its powers continued.
These led by desperate, unwavering leaders,
elections were held on Sunday, and one M. Thiers had a gigantic task before
hundred and forty thousand votes were him. I lis courage does not appear to
cast for the Communal body, and about have weakened for an instant, and his
sixty thousand votes lor the opposing coolness was the admiration of Europe.
faction. Among the elected were The fusillade of the Place Vendome
Flourens, Blanqui, Felix Pyat, and such was a kind of coup d'Etat. It was fol-
extremists. was rather amusing to
It lowed up on the 28th of March by the
observe, Sunday morning, the
on this formal declaration of the Commune in
ostentation with which the Communists front of the Hotel de Ville. The cere-
removed the cannon from the Place Ven- mony was notspecially interesting. The
dome in accordance with their proclama- members of the Communal Council got
tion, stating that no citizen should together on a platform in front of the
complain that he had voted at the can- great Henri IV. entrance to the magnifi-
non's mouth. The Central Committee cent building, which was doomed to per-
got its powers fully confirmed, and some ish in the flames a and
few weeks later ;
of its more active members formed there was a display of busts of the
themselves into a sub-committee, in Republic crowned with Liberty-caps, and
which the whole executive power of the ornamented with red ribbons and flags.
Commune was subsequently concen- Salutes were fired from batteries of ar-
trated. tillery along the Seine; many speeches
Meantime, at Versailles, M. Thiers were made : and there was infinite
was preaching from the tribune that drinking and shouting. The dates and
:
phraseology of the old Revolution began No sooner was this published than lie I
to he employed. The Official Journal of exodus began, and did not cease until
the 28th of March published the follow- nearly every Parisian of fortune who
ing notice "The citizens, members of the
: could get away had gone. The Com-
Commune of Paris, are called together munal authorities made a great show of
to-day, Wednesday, the 8th germinal, preventing departures from Paris, but
at one o'clock exactly,
at the Hdtel de Ville."
Every smallest and least
important notice was pre-
ceded by the phrase
Commune
••
de Paris. —
Rep a blique Francaise.
Liberty. Equality. Fra-
ternity."
The Central Commit-
teegave its powers into
the hands of La Com-
mune, which was a mere
matter of form, designed
to shield the personality
of different members.
" The proclamation." it
said, "of the L'Oth of

March has sanctioned
the victorious Revolu-
tion." It then went on
to abuse the Versaillais
as presumable Monarch-
ists, and stated that the
first acts of the new
power would be a deci-
sion as to the lowering
of rents and the renew-
al of commercial paper.
These were measures in-
tended to conciliate the

middle class, which had
THIERS AND MACMAHON MEETING AT LONGCHAMPS
been sorely distressed by
the long business stag-
nation consequent on the siege. The they were powerless in the matter. The
Commune abolished conscription, and Commune struck a blow at the landlords
decreed that no military force other as soon as it was firmly installed in
than the National Guard could be created power, by decreeing that no rent should
or introduced into Paris. All valid citi- be collected from tenants for the terms
zens were to be at once incorporated between October, 1870, and April, 1871 ;
in the National Guard. and that all the sums that had been paid
43(j EUROTE IN STORM ASK CALM.
for rent by tenants during those nine true Republican simplicity, — a few paper
months should be credited them on to lanterns hung in the Place de la Concorde
future terms. This took millions upon and in the Tuileries. The two trium-
millions of francs out of the pockets of phal arches were brilliant with gas-jets.
the house-owning class, and to this day At the Hotel de Ville a line display was
the proprietaires cannot hear the Com- made. The National Guard and their
mune spoken of without getting into a wives and daughters paraded the princi-
towering passion forthwith. pal streets, singing revolutionary songs;
The effort of Paris to attain her auton- and many of the men, despite the strict
omy awakened a good deal of sympathy discipline to which they were supposed
in the minds of the more intelligent of to lie subject, were too much devoted to
the property-holding classes; but this Bacchus. Returning home at midnight
sympathy was not strong enough to in- from an inspection of these illuminations,
duce the sympathizers to act openly with 1 was approaching a sentinel at the
the Commune. Paris wanted, according corner of the Rue Mont Thabor, and he
to the Communists, to lay down an ulti- halted me when 1 was certainly one hun-
matum to thi' general government, de- dred paces from him. " Passez "«
manding a guarantee for the autonomy large!" screamed the guardian of the
of the great, capital and for its recon- Republic, in a voice which showed signs
quered municipal authority. After the of the influence of absinthe. How to
elections the barbers, tailors, shoe- pass at any more respectful distance
makers, and bakers in the central quar- from (his exacting sentinel than the
ters, who had all been a few days before width of the street I knew not. I was
Sery defenders of the law-and-order allowed to advance within ten paces,
party, and loud in their denunciations of when, in a drunken rage, he cried.
the assassins and the mob of convicts, ••

Voulez~vous passer an large?" evi-
became somewhat conservative, and dently thinking that I meant to disarm

showed a disposition to side with the him. " Certainly," I said ;
" which side,
powers that lie. The Commune had at sentinel?" — " A votre gauche, alors"
one time almost succeeded in convincing (To your left, then.) But when 1 started
the majority of the Parisians that the to the left, he raised his musket, and,
National Assembly at Versailles was de- pointing it rather unsteadily at me, said.
termined to restore monarchy, and that "Will you keep at a distance?" —

to Parishad been confided the glorious "Shall I on this side?"
not pass —
mission of sustaining and definitely " Sacri nom de Dieu! Do you not know
founding the Republic. which is your left hand?"

Meantime business was at a stand-still, begged his pardon for having vent-
I
and money was scarce ; few shops were ured to judge for myself which was my
open. The Commune, from beginning left. hand, and was finally permitted to
to end of its brief career, aped all the pass alive on the side which I previously
tricks of the preceding governments; supposed to be my
Drunken sen- right.
and so it had an illumination on the tinels were numerous enough in those
night that the Commune was declared. days, and were a source of annoyance,
This was called the Fete of the Com- as. in their cups, they were exacting and
mune. The fete was meagre and of suspicious.
CHAPTER FORTY-SIX.
Decrees of the Commune. — The First Important Battle. — Flourens Loses His Life. — Notes on Communal
Journalism. — The Burning of the Guillotine. — Great Funerals. — An Artillery Duel. — An Aston-
ishing Spectacle.
the early days of April some of the of Church and State, the suppression of
TNmore moderate of the Communists, the budget of public worship, and the
among them Vermorel and Ranc, re- seizure by the nation as national prop-
movement had
signed, believing that the erty, of all the houses and lands belong-
become too revolutionary and public to ing to religious congregations. Ilowthe
admit of further association with it. Commune of Paris managed to make its
The}- did not mean by their resignations decrees national no

knew, and nooik-
to imply that they despaired of leading a one of the Communists endeavored to ex-
mob, but that they recognized the move- plain. Most of the churches were closed,
ment as indefinite in its aims, not hav- and in many cases, seals of the Commune
ing in view the foundation of any special were placed upon their doors. From
government, either for Paris or France, time to time they were used for chilis,
but being merely a protest against king- aud offensive and blasphemous language
ships, against the clerical reactionary was heard in the pulpits. The violent
party, and against what Mr. Carlyle hatred of the great masses of the sup-
called " clothes." porters of the Commune for the clergy
In these first days of April too, the had been manifest from the beginning
Commune published its famous decree, of the Commune, and increased in in-
by which impeached Thiers, Jules
it tensity until it culminated in the mas-
Favre, Picard, Dnfaure, and others who sacre of the Archbishop and his col-
had been prominent in the work of na- leagues.

tional defence, because, as the proclama- On the 3d of April came the first im-
tion declared, " the men of the govern- portant battle which the Communist
in
ment of Versailles had ordered and troops were engaged in front of Paris.
begun a civil war, had attacked Paris, Flourens here lost his life Duval, an ;
slain or wounded National Guards, sol- energetic Communist, was taken pris-
diers of the line, women and children." oner, and shot and the Communist
;
They decreed the confiscation of the papers were filled with details of the
goods and chattels of these personages, ferocious conduct of the Versailles troops.
and it was not long after that M. Thiers' The fact is, that the insurrectionists
house was visited his art treasures,
; were treated, from first to last, with the
which were many and very costly, were greatest rigor and in the early battles
;
carried off and deposited in the Louvre, of the insurrection, little quarter was
aud his papers were tossed about by given on either side.
grimy hands. The decree of the 2d After the disestablishment of the
of April also announced the separation Church bv the Commune, the insurrec-
438 EUROPE IN STORM AXP CALM.
tionists took every occasion to show their tures in the comic papers devoted to the
contempt for religions names and relig- Commune were often extremely irrever-
ious employments. One day an abbe ent. In one, Jules Favre was represented
applied to the Communal officers for as Judas, and the quotation from St.
permission to visit a prisoner in the Con- Matthew concerning the faithless kiss of
ciergerie. "Who are you?" said the was applied to a big-headed
the betrayer
Jack in Loots who was in authority. Favre kissing an ugly-looking wench,
" I am a servant of God," was the in a red dress, supposed to represent
answer. He was given a pass con- the Republic. In another, Thiers was
ceived thus : "Allow freely to pass Citi- represented as an accomplished acrobat,
zen , servant of a person called upholding on his broad shoulders all the
God." This partook of mouutebankery, aspirants to royalty and the throne of

and was significant of what was to come. France.
All the Catholic institutions were visited Curious and impressive was the scene
and minutely inspected, and the authori- enacted on the horrible Place de la Ro-
ties sought every pretext for their sup- qni tte, where Troppmann's execution had
pression. One superior of a well-known occurred some time before. The Com-
institution achieved a veritable triumph munists, in searching among the prisons,
when visited by one hundred armed men. which they were very fond of in-
who persisted in searching his place, say- specting, found pieces of seventeen
ing that enemies of the Republic were guillotines, old and new, and therefore
concealed therein, lie opened his doors they sent forth hither and yon men to
freely, and took them through a long rattle on drums and announce that the
suite of looms, all of which were filled aforesaid guillotines would be publicly
with wounded insurgents and the would- : burned on the Place of the Condemned.
be inspectors went away very much "Come and see, citizens, the promise
ashamed of themselves. of La Commune that a reign of terror
The worst kind of journalism began shall not be reestablished, at least with
tn flourish so soon as the Commune was guillotines, for it is so easy to be con-

fairly installed in otliee, and lasted until demned by them, once they are in good
the close of the insurrection. The inworking order; within their fatal arms
famous and scurrilous "Pr/v Duchene" they are always seeking to enfold you.
was the most disgusting of these journals. Let us annihilate the scarlet destroyers."
It was a.low, blackguard publication, And so blazing piles were heaped high,
like the anonymous prints of Congrcve's and thousands of people danced in joy
time, and was, in many respects, an around the fires in which perished the
exact copy of its prototype of the old blood-stained machine under whose
Revolution. was filled with oaths and
It knife Orsiui died. The women were the
exclamations which bordered closely on most enthusiastic participants in this cer-

revolting vulgarity and the comments
;
emony of burning the guillotines, and
of this "Pere Dicckene" were supposed they danced, marched, and howled about
to embody the official opinions of the flames for hours, evidently taking as
the Commune. " P&re Duchene" talked much delight in it as they did in laboring
of hanging, drawing and
burning, on the ramparts, another of their favor-
quartering the bourgeois ami the aristo- ite amusements, fortifying against those
crats without compunction. The carica- whom they were pleased to term the
" Prussians of Versailles." A common among the Communists it was received

spectacle on the fortifications was a row witli cheers.
of National Guards seated gravely smok- One morning the bill-boards of the
ing their pipes while the women were Commune were placarded with the fol-
digging at the turf and the sods and lowing notice, dressed in deep mourning :
piling them up on the ramparts. ''•Citizens: — La Commune of Paris invites

One day near the insurrectionist bar- you to attend the burial of our brethren
ricades, on the Place Vendome, I dis- assassinated by the enemies of the Re-
covered an acquaintance of mine, aged public during the days of the 3d, 4th,
six years, industriously employed in and 5th of April. The meeting will
rearing rival barricades with lots of pav- be at the Hospital Beaujean, at two
where the
ing-stones, left
street had been torn up.
In the embrasure of these
few stones he and his
companions presently
mounted a toy cannon,
pointed at the defenders
of La Commune. Asen-
tinel looked curiously on ;
bystanders smiled ; the

child's hair blew about
his forehead, fanned by
the evening breeze, and
his face took on a fero-
cious aspect as he tugged
at the heavy stones.
The One Hundred and
First Battalion of the in-
surgents was quite fa-
mous. was composed of
It
small, thin, and ignorant

DEATH OF FLOURENS.
workmen from the sub-
urban quarters, meanly and not quite uni- o'clock; burial at the cemetery of Pere
formly clad. Their weapons were of all La Chaise."
shapes and sizes, and tosee them marching From curiosity or sympathy, thou-
along one of the splendid boulevards one sands attended the funeral, and three
might have imagined that Jack Falstaff immense hearses, with sixteen dead Na-
and his army had come to town. But tional Guards in each, moved slowly up
they fought like demons, never missing a the streets to the far-off cemetery that
chance in the trenches before Paris. The afternoon. I had seen the burial pag-
battalion conducted itself well. It was eantry of a Marshal of the Empire, but
the first battalion in the Place Venddme ; it was not so impressive as this. Thou-
it captured two cannon ami a mitrailleuse sands of troops followed slowly with un-
at Chatillon from the Versailles troops, covered heads, and the armed escort,
and wherever it appeared thereafter headed by muffled drums ami a number
440 EUROrE IN STORM AND CALM.
of trumpeters playing mournful airs, unarmed when I had visited it a

entirely
met with marks of respectful sympathy week and a half before, now seemed
everywhere. Each man wore an immor- magnificently provided with cannon, and
telle, and this gave to the whole proces- vomited lire and smoke continuously.
sion the air of a vast parterre covered Over Chatillon little puffs constantly
with blossoms. There were few noisy arising showed that the insurgents had
demonstrations. The occasional roar of a. battery there also, and were making
the cannon reminded every one that there the most of the defensive works which
was no time for wasting tears or breath. the Prussians had left behind them.
As the head of the funeral procession Gradually the whole horizon beyond was
reached the poinl opposite the Chaussde enveloped in the smoke from batteries,
d'Antin where there were many thousands
, ami the thunders of the artillery were
of spectators massed together, another distinctly audible for miles around. On
funeral procession, composed of a shabby the great plain below, that which, in
hearse with a pine-wood coffin in it, fol- 1867, received upon its vast expanse the
lowed by half a dozen humble people, came delegates of all the nations, several thou-
out from the Rue Louis Grand, and
le sand men were manoeuvring. The sheen
crossed directly at right angles. Misery of their arms, the occasional faint
and splendor in burial ceremonial were echoes of martial music, borne to us on

never in more startling contrast than the breeze, gave us all the spirit of a
here, and a sol) of sympathy seemed to review, while we were in the presence of
burst from the spectators in profound an active battle. The whole space in
unison. The addresses at the cemetery front of the Kcole Militaire was occupied
were full of vindictive threats and allu- by regiments of National Guards, who
sions to the cowardly assassinations of manoeuvred with much precision. A brill-
the brothers in arms. The death of iant staff rode up and down commanding
Flourens, which had been a great blow imperiously, but with our field-glasses we
to the Commune, was more than once could discern that they cast timid glances
alluded to in a manner which showed in the direction of Issy, where the battle
that vengeance was intended. Next day every moment gained in vigor. Its tre-
I rode to the review which the Commu- mendous fusillade was showing its white
nists had announced to take place Oil the line of smoke under the batteries of Issy,
Champ tie Mars, and, in common with and the Versailles troops and the wa-
thousands of other spectators, was com- vering response on the insurgents' side
fortably ensconcing myself on the sunny indicated that the fort was now in dan-
slope of the Trocadero, when my atten- ger.
tion was arrested by a tremendous can- Suddenly we heard the sharp voice of
nonading, which burstsuddenly upon our the insurgents' batteries in the neighbor-
hearing from the direction of Fort Issy. hood of the Avenue de la Grande Armee,
The thousands of spectators turned their and hastened towards the ramparts at
eves towards the fort, and was evident
it that point, where a gate opened into the
to all that a great artillery duel was be- Porte Maillot Here I was brought to
ginning. The Versailles troops had es- a sharp halt by a sentinel, who assured
tablished their batteries on a plateau me that I could go no farther and even ;
between Meudon and Issy, and were the production of numerous Communistic
firing briskly. Rut the fort, which was passes was of only sufficient avail to
procure me a threat of immediate arrest now endeavoring to retake. This barri-

if I ventured to mount the ramparts. I cade was stoutly defended by the insur-
turned away, and proceeded in the direc- gents, who were protected by batteries
tion of the Triumphal Arch. On getting on all sides.
near this monument, whence I could In and around the Triumphal Arch, and
have an unobstructed view of the Neuilly half-waydown the avenue of the Grand
gate and as far as Courbevoie, on the Army, in the direction of the fighting,
long, straight avenue of Neuilly, which was clustered, perched, stuffed, packed,
runs without the slightest curve or break and jammed together, a crowd of perhaps
TIIE RUE PERRONET AT NEUILLY.
until the hill shuts out the view beyond, thirty thousand people. Most of these
I saw that a battle was engaged, and were citizens of Paris, and from the upper
shells were beginning to fall unpleasantly classes. They were in carriages and
near. Many exploded in the air, and dog-carts, mounted on omnibuses, and
each shell was said to have one hundred on the balconies and roofs of the sur-
bullets in it. At the top of the hill just rounding houses. Menand women,
mentioned is a large tower, and half-way elegantly dressed, and laughed
joked
between this tower and the gate of the over the struggles of the fighting men on
Paris fortifications was a huge barricade, the hills and plains below. It was like
which the Versailles troops had held the a Grand Prix day in the Boisde IJoulogue.
day before, had abandoned, and were It was impossible for a stranger to under-
stand how these people of society looked immense clouds of smoke, for ten minutes
with such evident unconcern at what at a time. Now and then one or two
seemed to be the beginning of :x sangui- men would disappear under the crushing
nary civil The men cheered and
war. explosion of a shell ; then a tremendous
the women waved their handkerchiefs musket-fire would break out from hedge
whenever a shell burst, but for what and house and wall, directed at, the ap-
reason they would have been puzzled to proaching Versailles artillery-men, and
say. The foolishly frivolous and fashion- the crowd regarded it as a glorious spec-
able class, which neither represented tacle,and laughed, and ate bonbons, and
Paris nor France, was in full force on went quietly home to dinner, lint it was
this occasion and once or twice the
; astonished to learn that, an hour after it
Communists, stalking about in the crowd, had were falling thickly on and
left, shells
showed an inclination to strip these fine around the Arch.

birds of their feathers. Numbers of car- The government troops had got Un-
riages filled with American ladies and contested barricade again at considerable
gentlemen were grouped about the Tri- loss,and were now steadily approaching
umphal Arch. Here and there people the gates. When I left shells were fall-
were so enthusiastic in their praise of the ing by dozens in the rich and fashionable
Communal troops as to call out adverse quarter, — the Versaillais not hesitating
criticism from their aristocratic neighbors to bombard the capital, although they
in the gathering. had called the Prussians Vandals because
Now and then a little panic was pro- they had done the same thing. Many
duced by the ambition of some shell, which insurgents were coming back from the
overleaped the ranee of the previous light, cross and bleeding, and elbowing
ones, and which fell with a frightful citizens in no gentle spirit; fresh artil-
crash, and not faraway. Every moment lery trains driven by liners who had de-
shells came up steadily in a little puff of serted at the outbreak of the Commune,
white smoke, which was speedily illumi- and the guns, manned by soldiers in
nated by a Hash and then died away. all kinds of uniforms, rattled up through
Sometimes the line of battle in front of the Champs Elysees, and went towards
the gate, only a short half-mile from the the gates. With the glass we could see
Arch, would be seen to waver under the that Neuilly had been badly demolished ;
pressure of the fire of regular troops ;

houses had been riddled with shell, and
then the whole avenue would look like a many people were killed in the street.
furnace, with jets of flame escaping from
CHAPTER FORTY-SEVEN.
Pictures of the Commune. — General Cluseret. — The Hostages. — A Visit to the Communal Ministry of
Public Instruction. — The Armistice. — Touching Incidents of the Fratricidal Struggle.
DURING the whole of the month of front. There was at that time no pillage ;
April a vigorous but useless light flic guards were neither brutal
citizen
was kept up between troops of the Com- nor impolite. Women were treated with
mune and those of the regular govern- genuine respect, and although a Belgian
ment at Versailles. The battle on the correspondent had telegraphed to his
road to Neuilly, described in the last journal that the excitement had made
chapter, was claimed by the Communal every one ghastly and green with fear,
authorities as a victory, and the Com- and ready to gnaw his lingers with re-
mune issued a flaming despatch in which morse, such was not the case. Am-
it said that " Bergeret himself" was at bulances were almost (lie only vehicles
Neuilly. This " Bergeret himself" seen bombarded quarters. The
in the
amused the Parisians who were not red flag waved on the tops of all the
sympathetic with the Commune, and the buildings and most of the churches;
poor fellow never heard the last of it. barricades were going up right and left
although lie was soon replaced as the in the principal streets. Citizen Pascal
delegate for war by Cluseret, who inau- Grousset, destined to become famous in
gurated his campaign by posting up a connection with the Commune later on.
proclamation to the people of Parts, in was tlte head of the commission for the
which he said that the Versailles troops construction of barricades. Half-way
were shooting the prisoners, killing the up the Champs Elysees, the officers of
wounded, and firing upon ambulances. battalions guarding (hat quarter had
About this time the Parisians discovered made a line of demarcation, beyond
that they were doomed to suffer a second which only those citizens honored with
bombardment, which seemed likely to passes were allowed to go.
prove much more serious than that to A
visit to this quarter which I made
which they had been subjected by tiie on the Hth of April, may serve as typical
Prussians. The bombardment of the to visits any day thereafter until the
siege cost Paris but only one hundred entry of the regular troops into Paris.
and ninety lives ; but that of the Ver- All the side avenues radiating from the
sailles troops was far more deadly, and Arc deTriomphe were filled with soldiers ;
appears to have been of no use whatso- guns were stacked in one street, and
ever in hastening the surrender of the liners, who had deserted at the outbreak
capital. of the Commune, were tranquilly build-
In these early days of April we went ing fires to boil their coffee, paying little
into the bombarded quarter every day to attention to the shells which came every
see the sights, and to bring back to the minute or two into their neighborhood.
deserted boulevards the gossip from the We were halted by an officer at the
444 EUROPE IX STURM AND CALM
Arch, and this diminutive official pro- and then retire as coolly as if he were
ceeded examine our papers with much
to leaving his box at the opera.
dignity, when a series of sharp hiss€s moments we were standing
In a few
followed by a deafening crash caused directly in of the Arch in the
front
the little Frenchman hurriedly to crumple Avenue de la Grande Armee and here ;
up our passes, throw them into our a soldier remarked that the Royalists,
carriage, and force our reluctant coach- as the Versailles troops were called,
man forward. The shell struck in the were hard at work. Why they should
centre of the Avenue des Champs Elysees, have chosen to bombard the quarter in-
sending its deadly fragments in all direc- habited almost exclusively by wealthy
tions. Then came a tremendous series Parisians and foreigners this soldier was
of detonations, and the air was tilled at a loss to discover, and we quite
with bullets, and the debris of what was agreed with him that itwould have
called a mil raille box. From all sides been, from a Versailles point of view,
came echoes, sounding like protests from more practical to shell Belleville and La
thedepartingownersof the fine residences Villette. When we came back to the
lining each side of the avenue. At the Rue de Presbourg, a lady showed us in
Ottoman Embassy we found numerous the upper chamber of a mansion the

marks of shot and shell, and two people wreck of costly furniture, bric-d,-brac,
were killed at the very doors of the Sevres china, and line paintings just
Embassy that morning. The younger caused by a shell from a Versailles
soldiers were so excited that they jostled battery. Near by, a fine villa, occupied
us right and left and made rather sharp by an American family, had been visited
comments on the curiosity-seekers. The by so many shells that all the treasures
men on guard were of the better class; in a beautiful art cabinet were demol-
some had been forced in others had ; ished. The day previous to our visit in
volunteered, and were anxious to light. the direction of the Porte Maillot, while
In the Hue de Chaillot we saw Mr. a poor woman \yas giving her soldier-
Washburue's carriage driving rapidly husband a dinner she had brought him,
away, the old gentleman quietly reading a shell killed him and carried away part
the morning paper as he went his round of the woman's face. Almost at the
of daily duties, which in variety and same time a sentinel was killed by the
piquancy have never been equalled in discharge from a gun hung over the
the history of the American Legation shoulder of an orderly galloping by,
in Paris. the gun being touched by a fragment
When the great light at the Porte of shell, which embedded itself in the
St. Martin Theatre was at its height, orderly's back.
when houses on either side of the The curiosity of the Parisians caused
street were completely wrecked, and many casualties but as soon as a
;
a storm of shot and shell had raged for wounded man was seen a group gathered
more than two bonis, I saw our Ameri- about him, and, while they were gazing at
can minister quietly drive up to the him, the splinters from newly arriving
barricade, and. stepping into the front shells made many victims among them.
rank of the regulars, take out his opera- Out of two hundred wounded people
glasses, survey as much of the situa- taken to the hospital at the Palais de
tion as was possible through the smoke. ['Industrie, the attendant physicians said
that hardly ten per cent, could survive. his men were mutinous and no longei
Nearly all these men were struck down desired to march. " Disarm them, citi-
by shells just ready to explode. The zen " was the answer.
!
But I cannot
avenue leading to the Bois de Boulogne disarm them," he said. " They will be
was empty and desolate enough. A about the streets dying with hunger in a
few soldiers hung about the gate lead- few days if I do that. You know there
ing iuto the wood, and a solitary sen- is no work, aud we cannot afford " —
tinel on the ramparts was hugging his Here he was sternly interrupted, and
gun. informed that the Commune had no
At the American Legation there was duties towards any man who would not
no sign of life. A half-drunken old fight to protect it, and that if the recal-
man, drawing an apple-cart, as he passed citrant needed any charity, nfter they
the door of the Legation had his patriot- were disarmed, they might go to Ver-
ism awakened by the spectacle of ex- sailles to get it. The result was that
ploring strangers, and had just taken the men did not carry out their intention
one of us by the collar for a Prussian, to mutiny. Calhoun speaks somewhere
when he stumbled and fell and there ; of the cohesive force of plunder; but
was a terrific crash which nearly fright- here it was the cohesive force of a com-
ened him out of his senses. Picking mon misery which kept these men in the
himself up, he took his apple-cart and Communal movement.
departed in haste for a safer neighbor- At this time the Communal insurrec-
hood. was a curious spectacle to see
It tion was respected and dignified but it ;
hundreds of ladies and gentlemen watch- was destined soon to degenerate iuto the
ing the white smoke puffs of Valerien, broadest license, and the wildest social-
and to see them retire gradually as the ism, aud most vindictive carnage. The
guuuers got their range, and as the shells Conservative party, in its fright and in
came nearer and nearer. The children its anger, invented accounts of the exe-
went on calmly playing hop-scotch in cution of priests aud the sacking of con-
the streets, aud men and women sat vents and churches which had never
in their doors waiting for events, aud taken place. The Sacristan of Notre
gossiping about the wounded. No Dame even wrote to the Paris papers
American lady who visited Paris during that his golden and silver vessels re-
the Commune thought her morning com- mained in the same receptacle where
plete without she had been driven out they had lain for years, and denied the
under Are and had seen some incident story that the Communists had inquired
of the bombardment. The Communist for them.
officerswere very fond of parading be- The famous decree of the Commune as
fore strangers, and usually made artful to hostageswas published on the 6th of
appeals to their sympathies. Dombrow- April, and was provoked, it is said, by
ski,and men of his type, made a good the fact that the Versailles troops gave
appearance, and their eloquence was no quarter, and that the hundreds of
sometimes quite convincing. suspected persons who had beeu ar-
One morning I was at the Ministry of rested and imprisoned in the gloomy
War, engaged in conversation with Gen- garrison building at Versailles were
eral Cluseret's secretary, when a chief treated with great harshness. Article
of battalion entered, aud announced that Fifth of the Communal decree declared
that any execution of a prisoner of war, General Cluseret, in his post as dele-
or a person of the regular government of gate for war, was the virtual head of
the ('(immune of Paris, should be in- the insurrection until his rigid devotion
stantly followed by those of a triple nuni- to discipline made him unpopular.
berof hostages, who should lie designated One of his first announcements was that
by 1< it. This was generally considered by he did not intend to be disobeyed. lie
the property-holding classes as the inau- signed one of his preliminary orders
guration of a new reign of terror. The " Minister of War," on his own ac-
arrests of the venerable Archbishop of count, and no one contradicted him,
Paris, the Cure' of the Madeleine, and because he seemed competent to fulfil
various other of the numerous ecclesias- the duties of that position. His court-
tics, and their imprisonment in the Con- martials worked quickly, and had but
ciergerie, constituted a fatal error, and little mercy. The General had lived
the more intelligent of the Communists poorly and fared hard for many years in
recognized from the first that it had pursuance of the cause of liberty. A
placed them under the ban of public consummate energy and a certain dash
opinion in more than three-quarters of and bravery were his chief qualities.
the communes in France. The Arch- Not very long before the Empire came
liislio]i wrote a letter explaining his to grief, Cluseret was visited in his lodg-
position ; that he was held as a hostage, ings at Suresnes by some Imperial
and saying that, if the barbarities of agents, who informed him that he was
which the Communists accused the Ver- their prisoner. lie denied this soft im-
saillais really existed, they were highly peachment, and announced to them that
reprehensible. The Archbishop added he was a naturalized American citizen.
that he wrote this sentence under no He insisted upon being taken before Mr.
threat, but of his own free will, as :i Washburne, who accompanied him to
good French citizen. the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and
A few days after the prelate's arrest there a species of convention was made
a friend said to me, " I have been this by which Cluseret was allowed to re-
morning to get my cure released. I told main ten days on French soil. Before
the Communists that they were keeping these had expired he had obtained an-
in prison a Republican and a much older other ten days of grace; and so he
revolutionist than themselves, and that I continued to prolong his residence until
myself was prosecuted forroy liberal prin- he had accomplished the revolutionary
ciples long before many of the leaders in work had reentered the coun-
for which he
this movementwere born. They informed try. From the first he was determined
me that the cuiv was kept merely as a not to deceive the Parisians as to what
hostage ; that they were compelled to use they might expect even if they achieved
severe measures to diminish the arro- their aim of making Paris a free city.
gance of the Versailles troops and that ; He warned them against all Socialistic
there were so many priests connected nonsense, and assured the soldiers that
with conspiracies for the reestablishment they would have to go back to be simple
of the Empire, or for a new monarchy, that workmen as before. Aided by a some-
they would doubtless be compelled to ar- what remarkable chief of staff, he re-
rest them all. They denied, however, ceived hundreds of visitors daily, and
that any priest had been maltreated." despatched immense quantities of work.
FA'ROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 447
One morning, as I went to his offices, I service against the Prussians, now had a
was accosted by a captain, who said to red flag floating above them, kept steam
me in English, " I am from Pawtucket, constantly up, and were ready to go
and have come home just now to help." into any engagement where they could
Another inquired timidly what the Ameri- be useful. Their duty was to keep the
cans reallythought of the cause of Seine clear of any sudden invasion of
Paris, and scowled as I explained to Versailles troops. The batteries of the
him the drift of opinion beyond the sea Trocadero had been throwing shell into
as to the great Communal insurrection. Mont Valerien, a feat which few observ-
The list of unsuccessful amputations ers thought they could accomplish from
during these anxious days was enor- Trocadero, which in those days was a
mous, considering the reputation for barren plateau with long flights of stone
surgery that the French had theretofore steps leading down to the Seine. The
maintained. The chief surgeon at the spectacle was remarkably tine. The
ambulance of the Palais de I'lndustrie whole horizon would be obscured by
told me that of one hundred and forty- white smoke for a few moments, then
five wounded brought to him in two the veil would arise, and the battered
days, all but five per cent, would die. hulks of forts Issy and Montrouge would
The greut number of ambulances, as the loom up and disappear like phantoms in
extemporized hospitals were called, the battle mist. The smoke from the
which had existed during the Prussian batteries at the Porte Maillot and at
siege, had been dissolved or scattered these forts hung like a pall over the
right or left and so the Commune under-
; city one evening, and tile fusillade was
took to form ambulance companies, each so heavy and sustained that many peo-
containing twenty doctors or health ple rushed out of their houses expecting
officers, sixty medical students, ten wag- to find Versailles troops in the Place de
ons, and one hundred and twenty litter- la Concorde.
carriers. Each company was divided On the morning of the 23d of April I
into two of which must
six squadrons, went to the Ministry of War, and, after
at any time be found in the ward to some waiting, saw General Cluseret,
which they belonged and all these ; with whom I had an interesting conver-
were to be subject to the orders of a sation. The General was dressed in the
medical commission sitting at the H6tel simplest manner, wearing an old Ameri-
de Ville. The doctors received the pay can Alpine hat, and a plain suit of trav-
of captains. The Communists accused elling clothes, rather the worse for wear.
the Versailles government of allowing The anteroom, as well as the grand inner
its batteries to play upon the press am- hall where the officers of the Second
bulance just inside the fortifications, a Empire had so lately disported them-
hospital in which five hundred seriously selves, was filled with troopers of all
wounded men were lying. But each of shapes, sizes, and conditions. One cav-
the contesting forces claimed that the alry man, covered with rami from head
other did not respect the Geneva flag. to foot, leaned wearily on his sword ami
The flotilla of gun-boats on the Seine told the story of an attack another ;
and the Trocadero batteries were the stroked his long yellow mustaches, aud
sensations of mid-April. The eight growded because his men could not
gun-boats, which had done such great get any bread to eat. A group of
;
448 EUROPE AV STORM AND CALM.
liners, one or two blood-stained and serters from the Versailles army, were just
half-famished, clamored for the General, going out to the front on this day. They
and insisted on seeing him. When the were enthusiastic in their cries for the
babel was at its height, Cluseret stalked freedom of Paris. A little drummer-
out of his office, jostled the soldiers right boy, eleven years old, marshalled them
and left, and exclaimed that he could along, and a great crowd gathered to see
not be bothered with these silly tales them march past. Then came lumber-
and each complainer shrank away. He trains and requisition-wagons, badly
went to an inner room, where the council mounted orderlies galloping to and fro,
of war was at once called, and one could and slouching Mobiles, with their guns
sec him through the open door, deciding slung on their shoulders, men sullen in
and discussing measures anxiously, but aspect, and not soldierly in mien.
with a force of will which swept every- Armed with a letter of introduction I
thing before it. Yet he admitted that went on this same day to visit the citizen
there was plenty of cause for discour- Minister of Public Instruction at the
agement, and that not even the most ex- Hotel de Yille, which edifice I found so
traordinary animal magnetism could for surrounded with barricades and sentinels
any length of time overcome and cow that seemed impossible to approach.
if
so many thousands of unruly spirits as At by tortuous ways, we got into the

last,
were to be found in the ranks of the square around which so many revolu-
Communists. tionary currents had eddied, and where
Those officers and troopers who came Louis XL's hangmen had elevated their
and went in the war-office seemed will- cross-tree and ladder so many times.
ing enough to die for the Commune, if At the entrance to the last barricade
it were necessary. Among them were was a citizen more or less under the
many old men, hard-featured, with sixty influence of drink, as Communist senti-
winters' snows on their heads; and two nels were too often found. To this citi-
or three of these venerable rebels told zen I was compelled to read my letter
me that they were volunteers. They of introduction twice, and to exhibit all
were risking their heads for forty sous a the papers which I carried in my pock-
day, said the bourgeois; but I believe ets, among them a telegram some two or
that they were honest in motive, and, three years old. The huge red seal,
bad they been properly drilled, would with the outlined woman supposed to
have done wonders. represent the goddess of war sitting
Over the gale of the Ministry of War upon an outlined throne, with lays of
fluttered the red flag, with an inscription glory about her head, finally satisfied
of the Commune of Paris on its folds, thisgood man, and I passed up through
.lust within the portico, where the sun- a row of mitrailleuses and pieces of
light was merry on the gorgeous glass twelve, as the French called them, into
and a pretty cantiniere had
gilding, the gate of the great Hotel de Ville.
taken off her shoes and stockings and Some of the cannon were curiously pro-
was washing her feet after a long march. tected by heavy iron shields, so arranged
Every few minutes processions of small as to shelter the artillery-men in the field,
boys, from eleven to sixteen years of where there might otherwise be but little
age, marched by, each flourishing a crim- shelter. Two battalions came marching
son drapeau. The marines, who were de- in behind me, a baud of music playing
EUROPE IX STORM AX/> CALM 44!>
at the head of and determined

each, prison of the Conciergerie, I finally
looking officers scolding and fuming at found the Instruction Commission in a

their somewhat undisciplined men. Here room at the bottom of a lung corridor.
and there a stray member of the Com- Entering this room. 1 was greeted by a
mune, distinguishable by his red scarf, gentle, homely-clad hunchback, who an-
was promenading with his arms crossed nounced himself as the Citizen Magnet,
behind his back and his head bent for- and begged me to he seated.
ward as if lie were Citizen Magnet was knee-deep in
deciding upon the papers of all kinds, lie was evidently
destinies of the delighted with his promotion to high
capital. Little office,and talked fluently about demands
boys and gawky for succor from various educational in-
youths stood at a stitutions, and the thought that lie had

respectful dis- to give them. " Since the separation of
Church and State, citizen." lie said, " and
EPISODE OF THE COMMUNE. - GEN-

ERAL, LA CECILIA REVIEWING HIS
TROOPS.
the secularization
of the schools, you
can imagine that a vast affluence of
communications has come to the com-
tance watching with bated breath the mission. You can judge of that by the
movements of the great man. A throng envelopes strewing the floor." There
of youths, aged from fifteen to eighteen, was something impressive, if also a little
was hastening in and out of the gates. amusing, in the manner in which the old
These boys had come to get authorized Communal functionary took for granted
for various services under the Commune. the permanent separation of the Church
Making my way up the grand staircase, from the State, and the complete suc-
and passing the private office of Citizen cess of all the other revolutionary meas-
Assi, who had but recently emerged ures. He seemed convinced that his
from his disciplinary confinement in the reigu would last for his lifetime, al-
450 EUROPE IX STORM AM' CALM.
though he had only to go to the balcony On the right, as I entered the hall, I saw
at the front of the great edifice and to the line fresco representing Luletia seated
listen to the harsh cracking of the mus- on a throne, with her bow and spear and
ketry and the boom of the cannon to a gigantic shield, and with the world at
convince him that the battle was not yet her feet. How had this daughter of the
over. This deformed and amiable " min- morn and the child of smiles and sun-
ister " had been heard of before in shine fallen in the last few eventful
Fiance, lie had published a map of months !
the country, of which the tracts dis- The troops undergoing review looked
tinguished by the ignorance of their fairly well. Bands not so full as those
inhabitants figured in black, ami those of the Empire, but patriotic and blatant,
of relative intelligence were denoted by marched to the front of the grand
white. He took great pleasure in show- entrance with a huge tambour-major
ing me these maps, and expressing his preceding them. When the customary
indignation at the folly of preceding routine was finished, the Colonel drew
governments in allowing ignorance so up, took off his hat, and shouted ''•Vive
long to disfigure fair France. He spoke In Ligne!" — "Hurrah for the Regular
hopefully and sternly of his task, was Army!" — and I then perceived that
anxious for information from abroad, there were many line soldiers in the
and said he hoped soon to begin to ex- ranks. These were the men whom, after
change reports with the great educa- the seven days' tight, General De Gal-
tional commissions of the leading foreign liffet so mercilessly slew. The review
capitals. could not bring him to any
I continuing, the same Colonel called
expression of opinion as to the merits around him the numerous Captains and
of his military colleagues. He put aside electrified them with a short speech. He
all my inquiries with dexterous and def- finished with the cry of •• Forward
1 .1
erential courtesy, and at last conducted to fight, and die for liberty, for work, for
me to tl Ilice of the Citizen Yaillant, home, for La Commune!" and then,
who was charged with the highest du- shaking hands with each officer, he raised
ties connected with public instruction. his sword. All the other swords flashed
Citizen Vaillant was not to be found. in was taken, and the
the air, an oath
A grand review was in progress in front columns of men went wild with cheering.
of the Hotel de Yille. Two field bat- Presently appeared members of the
talions,some three thousand men, hail Commune legislate e body, which seemed
been drawn up in line since mv entrance, to have for that day suspended its
and now stretched across the Place de session for the express purpose of aiding
Greve. From the long hall fronting on in the process of electrifying the troops.
this place, — hall in which the Executive ( hie venerable member, with long, flowing
Commission and the Bureau of Infor- hair, made a fiery address, rushed into
mation of the Commune hail established the ranks, shook corporals and rank and
their antechambers, — 1 could see the re- fileby the hands, seemed likely to fall
view in progress and hear the crash of upon their necks and weep, had he not
the drums. That which seemed an echo been pressed for time. The burden of
in the distance was in reality the dull evcrv subject was sacrifice of self for
music of the Versailles batteries playing the great objects of freedom and the
vigorously against the Porte Maillot. legal autonomy of Paris. At last the
battalions marched away from the barri- siege. I went out by the Porte Bineau,
cades, and towards the Champs Elysees and was soon in the wilderness of semi-
and the Porte Maillot. The soldiers, ruined streets, through which I at last
defiant with their glittering swords came town of Neuilly, whence
into the
pressed tight against their right shoulders, I could look back to the Maillot gate, and
seemed capable of courage and disci- see the flames slowly rising from a burn-
pline. Among them were men of all ing house, out of the cellars of which
sizes one officer was six feet high, the
: had just come a number of aged old
next one four feet but the eyes of each
; women who had been lying concealed
were alight with the same fire. so long that they could scarcely see in
On the 25th of April two hundred the daylight, and tumbled over the
and seventeen victims had been carried smallest objects, trembling at the least
out of the avenue leading to the gate of noise.
Les Ternes, and every day brought fresh At Neuilly the tales of misery and
slaughter. An armistice had been ap- destruction were quite thrilling. At one
pointed, then postponed, because the house the mistress bad been rendered
Commune had not succeeded in deciding insane by the horrors of the bombard-
upon its future war-measures, and the ment, and was so violent that she was
Versailles government had not a fresh confined in the cellar for ten days, and
number of troops to put to the front. no one dared to approach her except
Hundreds of thousands of men and occasionally to throw her food. In the
women had gone out to the gates pre- adjoining house a woman had died on
pared for a pilgrimage of curiosity to the fourth day of the fight, and it was
Neuilly during the cessation of hostili- not until the tenth that the little funeral
ties,and now, turned back, they were procession could pick its way among the
muttering their discontent, and inspecting skirmishes to the cemetery. Between
the great groups of statuary on the two houses we saw half-a-dozen artillery
side ofArc de Triomphe towards
the horses in the last stage of putrefaction ;
Neuilly, where shells had made great and as we came back there passed us in
indentations and scratches. In the mid- a cab all that was mortal of a man who
dleof the grand group representing a war- had died in a Cellar for lack of food two
rior defending his fireside was the scar or three days before. In a house on tho
of a shell, which had struck deeply in Avenue du Roule a horrible spectacle
and nearly severed the head of the represented There had been a fierce
itself.
cumbent child from its body. Down at combat there a few days before, and four
the gate thousands of wagons crammed National Guards lay dead in a confused
with the furniture which had escaped heap, their hands tightly clinched, and
bombardment choked the entrance. Hag- their faces blackened. One had lost both
gard women and half-starved children legs, and another an arm. The court-
carrying boxes on their backs wandered yard of the house was so strewn with
aimlessly about. At last an armistice ruins of the ceilings that I could not
was suddenly decided upon, and we all find any mark of the entrance of a shell.
went out as far as it was possible to go, A woman in the throng of visitors
anxious to get some idea of the progress found a collar of pearls in a porch, where
being made by our besiegers, and so to a dead man was lying with his musket
judge of the probable length of the still loaded and his eyes turned towards
452 EUROPE IN STORM AN!) CALM
the window, whence doubtless came the shells rent open the upper stories. The
shot that killed him. good Sisters of Charity came out, now that
The Communist leaders, in communi- this armistice permitted, and, blinking
cating details of the fighting, said that in the unaccustomed light, hastened to re-
the troops of the Hue did not fight move the invalids to a safer place. Idiotic
furiously, hut that the gendarmes and and scrofulous infants,
blind and in-
the old Imperial police of Paris, who firm and half-frenzied
dwarfs, palsied
were embodied in the Versailles army, wretches of uncertain age, were placed
went into their deadly work with an in- in the vast furniture vans from Paris,
terest which was not feigned, and usually and jolted away to the capital. More
gave no quarter. than one beclouded intellect, dimmed
Arriving at the lines of our besiegers, by suffering, imagined some dire mis-
1 found the regular uniforms of the fortune in this removal, and protested
French army, but very little of tradi- energetically against it. .lust as the
tional French courtesy or grace. Those wagons were about to depart a sister
of us who approached the lines narrowly came running breathlessly to announce
escaped arrest and confinement. A bar- that the aged director of the hospital
ricade half-way up the avenue was Hanked would not leave his post. IP' was eighty-
with dozens of cannon, and the artillery- four years old, and faintly murmured in
men were all at their post. Two women his cracked tones that lie would die in the
arrived at and tried to pass;
the line house that he had founded. Put the old
their house, from which they had fled at man, in spite of his devotion to duty,
the beginning of the fight, was only a was carried away. Many of the Sisters
short distance away. The sentinel re- of Charity objected to entering the capi-
fused passage. They discussed, and he tal, because they did not wish to coun-
expostulated; whereupon an officer tenance the Communal movement, which
stepped forward, took the gun from the hail dared to offend Holy Church.
sentinel's hands, forced the women back The batteries of the Versailles troops
at the point of the bayonet, and said, were only two hundred yards from those
" That is the way you must talk to of the Commune, and here the One
them." Once an officer ordered a crowd Hundred and Fifteenth and Forty-fifth
of Parisians to move farther away or line regiments were stationed. The
they would receive a fusillade. The armistice was announced to finish at
howls of indignation at this statement five o'clock, and it was half-past four
were quite frantic,and the soldiers before we had closed our tour of inspec-
of the line, although amply protected tion, and we were obliged to spur our
by the guns of their own batteries, looked horses merrily to regain the gates. The
uneasy. long, low, dark-gray walls of Paris, sur-
One touching episode occurred during rounded by their dee)) ditches, and the
this day at Neuilly. Among the fragrant high-standing gate-ways, with their diffi-
blossoms of the lilac bushes were the cult approaches, looked very impressive,
humble roofs of the Institution of the and seemed almost impregnable. On
Holy Cross and the Hospital of Our Lady the way back we noticed a thoroughly
of the Seven Sorrows. Here, for fifteen Gallic scene, —
a young man in the uni-
days, in the back cellars, weak and dying form of the National Guard was playing
children had been confined, while the "Mourir jiour la Patrie" upon a piano,
which the frightened owner had just discharges from their batteries to frighten
moved into the street. Around the mu- away the crowds. The singers instantly
sician stood a chorus of soldiers, singing dispersed, and the owner of the piano
with stentorian voices the lugubrious re- had it packed on the backs of some stout
frain. Just theu began a panic, the men, and so it passed through the Porte
Versailles troops probably firing blank Maillot.
.
4.34 EUROrE IN STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER FORTY-EIGHT.
Dombrowski in the Saddle. — The Foreign Chiefs of the Commi—General Clnseret. Hi* Arrest. —
Delcscluze. -A Despairing Revolutionist. -Rosscl. Tlie Dcelamatoiy Period.
Bcrgcret. The —
Combat at the Southern Forts. —A Hot Corner under Shell Fire. —
The Women <>t' the lommune. i
WITH Dombrowski in the saddle cause

with
of
many
Panslavism, and broke faith
friends.
and invested with the authority of his old Polish
of commander of the armies of the In 1870 he lay in prison for a long
Commune of Paris, move-
the forward time in Paris, under the accusation of
inent of the Versailles forces became forging Russian bank-notes, bul he was
more and more difficult. Dombrowski acquitted of this charge, which was
was one of the picturesque figures of probably the work of his political ene-
Hie great insurrection, and risked his mies. During the Prussian siege he
life freely in the cause for which he did good work for the French, and
professed supreme devotion. He was after the capitulation he drifted to-
a young Polish adventurer, who had wards the Commune, and finally becL.
atne
been admitted in 1848 to the Cadet a member of the famous Central Co 111-
Corps in St. Petersburg, and had stud- mittee. From that dignity to the posi-
ted at the school of the Russian gen- tion of military commander of Paris
eral staff, had seen some service
lie it was but a step for a bold and am-
in the Caucasus, and had been deco- bitious man like Dombrowski. He hail
rated by the Russian gover cut for his head-quarters in the Place Yen-
his services there. But while he was d&ma, where lie was always surrounded
in garrison at Warsaw he became in- by a rather heterogeneous staff of
volved in a i spiracy which preceded young and enthusiastic men, many of
the insurrection of lsi;:;. He >vas whom 1 am convinced had absolutely
suspected, denounced, arrested, and no sympathy with the socialistic wing
imprisoned for a year, and lay in the of the Commune, but who were filled
citadel as a prisoner while the wave with the faith that Paris, by winning
of insurrection swept all around him. back her municipal liberties, would save
He was sentenced to death, but his the Republic, and would raise up hun-
sentence was commuted to exile io d reds of thousands of allies throughout
Siberia. Henceforward his story was the country. To blame those generous
as romantic as that of a hero of melo- and ardent men who willingly laid down
drama. On the way to Siberia he their lives for the sake of principles
escaped, returned boldly to St. Peters- which they believed thoroughly hon-
burg, where he was concealed for a orable and patriotic, would be unwise
time; then went to Switzerland, Ger- and unfair. There was more than one
and China, arriving in Paris in
litativ, who knew how to live through those
1805. lie was next heard of in the nine weeks of the siege like a soldier
Austro-Prussian war, espoused the and a gentleman, never condescending

EUROTE IN STORM AXD CALM. 455
to any of the excesses in which the that he had compromised the situation
grosser spirits of the (
'ommune indulged ; by issuing decrees, which, although good
and those were the men who perished in themselves, could not be carried out,
on the barricades, or in close action and which engendered complaints from
during the seven days' fight, disdaining the officers of nearly fifty battalions.
subterfuges and disguises by which they One officer, with whom I was personally
might have saved their lives. acquainted, carried to the Executive Com-
Dombrowski replaced Bergeret, who mittee of the Commune documents from
had been much ridiculed lor his vanity forty-live battalions, decrying the Clu-
and assumption, and who, on the whole, seret and demanding that the
rigivie,
was a clever and conscientious worker exacting General be displaced. The
in the cause which he thought right. Communal journals did not hesitate to
His fatal mistake was made in the dis- accuse him of neglect and incapacity;
astrous expedition against Versailles, but most of the officers contented them-
where he got men under the lire of
his selves with criticising him as too ambi-
Fort Valevien. During the fourteen days tious.
in which he was General-in-chief, lie There was :i story current in the capi-
probably made more mistakes than any tal, when
shortly after his arrest, that
military commander of modern times; the Communists were about abandon to
but of his zeal and his capacity as an the nearly ruined fort of Issy, and all
executive officer, although lie was of no had left save the one man who was to
use as a General, there was little doubt. have tired the fuse which would have
When General Cluseret sent him to sprung a mine, Cluseret, with two hun-
prison because he had refused to obey dred men, reoccupied the ramparts, and
there was a great roar among the fol insisted on holding the position. It is
lowers of Bergeret and he himself wrote

; certain that he never had any intention
on the walls of his cell this prophecy, of delivering up the fort, as he appreci-
founded on his satiric insight into the ated how disastrous such a course would
nature of the half-educated and sus- have been. I asked several officers who
picious master with whom Communal
the wen' directly concerned in his removal
chiefs were dealing :
" Cluseret, I am if there was any accusation of dishonesty
waiting for you here." lie did not have against him, and received emphatically
long to wait, not more than a fortnight; negative answers. Among the members
for the 22d of April saw him at liberty, of Commune, however, there were
the
and Cluseret was soon in his place. The those who said that he had offered to
disgrace of Cluseret was decided upon give up Paris for the sum of 8,000,000
the moment that the extremists of the francs. These gossiping gentlemen
Commune discovered his disapproval of had nothing on which to found these
their illiberal and oppressive measures. scandals except the great contempt
He even said of his friends, "They which Cluseret usually manifested for
may shoot me, lint they cannot make me them, and which, perhaps, led them to
work against my conscience." At the fancy that he was an enemy who had
time that Fort Issy was announced as managed to get a. position in their midst.
hands of the Ver-
likely to fall into the lie never sat with the members of the
sailles troops, Genera] Cluseret had Commune at the Hotel de Ville. When
already been undermined 011 the pretext the two members of the Communal
45(5 EUROPE IN STORM AM) I'ALM.
Committee came to announce the dis- in the Protestant, religion, was a pure-
satisfaction with him, antl to hint at his minded, austere, and vigorous young offi-
deposition, he answered quietly that he cer, who would have been certain, had
had for some time expected it. he not stepped aside into the thorny
Delescluze, who was the delegate for war paths of insurrection, of winning high
of the ephemeral Commune, was a man honors, possibly a marshal's staff, in the
of liner mould and of larger mind than flench service. lie was a keen writer
must lit' his colleagues Journalist, pub- already, a brilliant strategist, and at-
licist . and conspirator under the Empire ; tracted to himself no little notice in 1869,
conspirator again after the declaration when volume of the correspond-
the last
of the Republic, in 1*70; imprisoned for ence of Napoleon 1. was printed, bv
the attempted insurrection of the 1st of demonstrating in a clever article, pub-
( (ctoliiT, — he was already a notable figure lished in the Temps, that the books on
at the beginning of theCommunal period. strategy attributed to Napoleon were not
Like Cluseret ami Rossel, — the unfortu- and could not possibly have been written
nate young soldier who preceded him in by him. At Metz, during the siege,
the direction of the Commune's military Rossel was the determined enemy of Ba-
affairs, — Delescluze had a profound con- zaine, whom
he believed a traitor; and
tempt drunken helots who aired
for the was so vigorous that he was
his hostility
their socialistic theories on every possi- imprisoned in one of the forts. But he
ble occasion. While lie was in favor of escaped before the capitulation and, dis-
extremes, in the conduct of the conflict, guised as a peasant, traversed the Ger-
he was perpetually afraid, lest by ex- man lines, and got to Belgium ; then,
Cesses the Commune should alienate after a brief visit to his mother, in Lon-
from itself what little sympathy Europe don, hastened to Tours to place himself
felt for it; and
still it is reported that at the disposal of the Government of
when he heard of the execution of the National Defense. Gambetta knew and
Archbishop and the other hostages, his appreciated Rossel, who was an apostle
face became quite livid, a great sob of of the doctrine that to treat for peace
emotion rose and he sank
in his throat, with the Germans was national dishonor.
down in his seat, saying, " What a war! He went straight into the ranks of
But we also will show that we know how the Commune as soon as l he insurrec-
to die." lie was as good as his word, tion broke out, and wrote a plain letter
and died with a composure and bravery to the Minister of War in which he said
worthy of an ancient stoic. that he placed himself without hesita-
The appointment of Rossel as the tion in the ranks of those who had not
successor of Cluseret was a kind of consigned peace, and who did not count
cession to Cluseret's views as to rigid among them Generals culpable of capitu-
discipline. The new delegate for war lation, was Cluseret's chief of staff
lie
was but twenty-seven years of age, and for some time, and presided at the court-
had graduated from the School of Appli- martial where citizens who refused to
cation of Met/, only three or four years do military duty for the Commune were.
previously, c ing out of that school judged with great severity. Like the
with the grade of lieutenant. Rossel, others before him he was destined to
son of a French soldier of merit, and an waste his energy and to spend his cour-
English mother, who had brought him up age against the incurable negligence,
efroi'k f.v srnirv and calm. 457
lack of discipline, and jealousies which It is wonderful, when one looks back
honey-combed the insurrectionary forces ;
upon the resistance of the Commune,
and after having vainly endeavored to and the harum-scarum fashion in
get together twelve or fifteen thousand which it was conducted, despite the in-
men to lift the siege which the Versaillais disputable talent occasionally shown in
had laid to Fort Issy. he gave up his it, that it should have endured so long
office, ironically demanding at the close as it did. In the train of Dombrowski
of his resignation the honor of a cell at was a group of four young men named
Mazas. lie was taken at his word, and Okolowicz, born in France, of Polish
a committee of public safety sent a parents, and all energetic and capable
guard to arrest him.But lie succeeded officers.
in from the custody of the

escaping During the last hall' of April the
ferocious committee and enticed his guar- Commune was in its declamatory period.
dian to accompany him and it was not
; It issued its famous declaration to the
until the close of the seven days' fight French people, in which it claimed that
that he was found by the government the Commune had the right to form and
troops and taken with the rest of the mob determine the aspirations and the voice
to Versailles. No fairer and more prom- of the populations of Paris ; that at this
ising young life was sacrificed at the time, as on so many previous occasions,
posts of execution on the bloody field Paris was toiling and suffering for the
of Satory than that of Rossel. His whole of France, and preparing, by her
broken career has a pathetic interest for combats and sacrifices, the intellectual,
all who admire even the first indications moral, administrative, and economical
of military genius. Rossel fell into regeneration of the nation. The Com-
the trap which was fatal to so many munists denied that Paris was seeking
noble and gifted men. He believed that the destruction of French unity, but that
the Communal was practicable,
effort it wanted political unity, the voluntary
that it was honest, and that there was association of all, local initiative, the
really need for combating the govern- free and spontaneous cooperation of all
ment which had installed itself at Ver- individual energies with the common
sailles, and which, as he and so many object of the well-being, liberty, and
others thought, would reestablish a Mon- security of The Communal Revo-
all.
archy rather than declare a Republic. lution inaugurated a new era in politics ;
Bergeret, Cluseret, Rossel, Deles- was the end and cleri-

of the old official
cluze, Dombrowski and his Poles, La cal world, of military supremacy and
Cecilia, and a few showy officers, — bureaucracy, of jobbing in monopolies
these were the men who were expected and privileges, to which the proletariat
by the incompetent and intolerant "Cen- owed its slavery and the country its mis-
tral Committee " of the Commune to or- fortunes. " As for ourselves, citizens
ganize, with the rebellious National of Paris," the proclamation concluded,
Guard, the permanent defense of Paris " we have a mission to accomplish, a
against a compact and angry army as- modern revolution, the greatest and most
sembled at Versailles under the com- fruitful of all which have illuminated
mand of Marshal MacMahon, with such history."
men as Ladmirault, De Cissey, La To this Versailles replied with a cry
Cretelle, Vinoy, Douay, and Clinchant. of scorn and indignation, and with the
4.
r
).s EUROPE TN STORM AND CAl \I.
stern announcement that no parley could sweet south wind, more suggestive of
be held with rebels and deserters. "The Hyeres and Genoa than of northern
movemenl which has broken forth in l'aris; lint on this wind each morning
Paris," said the Versailles proclamation, were home the echoes of the booming
•• Ikis in it no coherent idea. It is born cannon. From Trocadero, or from the
of a sterile hatred against social order. Point du Jour, on the circular railway, we
It has the fury of destruction for the could see tierce combats engaged in be-
sake of destruction, a certain savage tween the three |\>rts standing out ill
spirit, the gratification of a desire to bold relief, and the Versailles batteries
live without restraint and without law. so high above them that the gunners had
The word '
Commune ' signifies noth- little trouble in dropping their shells into
ing else. It is only the expression of the I'oi Illicit ions.
ill-regulated instincts, refractory pas- Those of the National Guards who

sions, which upon the secular com-
fall kept up their discipline seemed inclined
munity of France as upon an obstacle to sell their lives dearly. Thev had
to their accomplishment." twice besieged Fort Issy and inflicted
There is as much exaggeration in the heavy losses on the Versailles troops.
statement of Versailles as in the state- Every step, every successive line of
ment of Paris. It is, perhaps, the exact trenches, might he said have been
to
truth to say that the Commune arose out traced in blood. Hand-to-hand combats
<if a mutual misunderstanding. That were frequent. They grew out of the
the men who originally rallied to the reconnaissances which sergeants of com-
movement were actuated by base motives panies on either side were constantly
is untrue. The Commune began as an making, and which often brought on a
honorable although a misguided protest general action. Both armies had trenches
against kingship, and against the usurpa- in front of Issy, positions which were
tion <
if authority over the city by the State. very hazardous. Now and then the Fed-
It gravitated speedily to the condition erals, as the Communists were always
of a vast and dangerous riot, nowhere called, would sally forth, and at great
directed or controlled by a master hand. loss attempt to dislodge the Versailles
Then crept in the serpent of socialism, troops, amply covered by their batteries.
the demons of drunkenness, and
lust, On one occasion the National Guards,
revenge; and all the line theories and unable to remain quiet under the terrible
noble aims of the original protesters, rain of shells from the batteries sur-
the extremists, who. like Delescluze rounding Issy, sallied out towards the
and Milliere and Klonrens, had been chdteciu of the same name. and. assisted
watching for more than a year for an by a feeble lire from the battered for-
occasion to take power into their own tress, chased, atthepointof the bayonet,
hands, were swept away in the black the Thirty-fifth and Forty-second line
smoke of the (lames which burned the regiments, but left the ground strewn
Tuileries and the Hotel de Ville. with their dead, lint when the lire from
With May the combat
the first days of the fort failed, the line regiments re-
at the southern had been daily in- forts turned to the charge, and in the mMSe
creasing in vigor. The diapason of the which ensued took three hundred of the
guns sometimes thrilled the whole city. National Guards prisoners, and killed
With early May had come the warm, most of them in the excitement of the
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 45t>
prise. Among those taken many were making about three hundred prisoners.
clad in the uniform of the regular army, A Versailles paper about this time an-
and those gentlemen passed out of life nounced that it was probable that the
at the end of a Versailles gun-barrel. garrison of the Fort Issy would be ac-
On this same day the Clamart rail- corded no quarter when it fell into the
way station — an important position for hands of the regular troops.
the besiegers of Issy While this combat was in progress at
— was carried by as- Fort Issy, I was visiting the right wing
sault by the Ver- of the insurgents' line of defense, where
saillais. This was some of the heaviest lighting took place
for a fortnight after the taking of
Asnieres by the Versaillais. A storm of
shot and shell was hurled at them from
Levallois, a little town only a short dis-
tance from the walls of Paris.
In Levallois the commandant i
of this section had his head-
TERRACE OF MKUDON OCCUPIED BY VERSAILLES TROOPS.
early in the morning, before sunrise, and quarters; and here, also, was the Gen-
was intended for a surprise; but the cral Okolowicz, one of the brothers
commander found the insurrectionists as mentioned elsewhere. At this head-
vigilant as himself. The Twenty-second (mailers found an aide-de-camp of
I
battalion of Chasseurs-&-pied, although General Dombrowski, who had been

subjected to great loss, drove out the detailed to command at this end of the
National Guards, inflicting on them a line. He was a fair type of many of the
loss of two hundred and sixty, and defenders in the service of the Commune,
4(i() EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
a handsome, athletic Pole, oner merchant himself to his map, found out whore said
of artificial dowers on the boulevard, but house was, and gave the gunners instruc-
since the riots of 1870 interested in tions to burn it. The Communists nad
politics. had fled some years before
!!«• been using petroleum bombs for some
from Russia, where he had been com- time, but: had not found them very suc-
pelled t<> serve in the army, had fought cessful. They claimed that the Versailles
eighteen months in the l'olish insurrec- batteries had. b\ means of
these bombs,
tion, anil had spent two years in an set numerous houses near the Ternes
Austrian prison as a convict, with a ball gate of Paris on lire. But the most in-
and chain attached to one of his leys. telligent of the staff-officers assured me
He was a brave soldier and a rapid and that in experimenting on a small house
decisive thinker. The Commandant of across the river, he observed that it was
the more like a stalwart
place looked only after the nineteenth shell had been
backwoodsman from Manitoba than like thrown that the conflagration was
a Frenchman. lie was six feet two, started. All the officers at this point
wore superb florid mustaches and were badly mounted, and few were
beard, and had a hearty, unaffected decently equipped. Their complete faith
manner which was quite winning. The in their final success was quite pathetic.
head-quarters was a small stone house, They ad estimated the Versailles forces
quite within the fire-line, so that shells as much smaller than their own. The
came constantly screaming above it, or commandant de place at this point told
ominous crash close beside
fa lline; with me he thought the safety of the Com-
it. Here the Commandant had with him mune depended cm the reorganization of
his wife and child, —
the wife a noble- the National ( iuard.
looking woman, who sat calmly when the Among the most impressive examples
shriek of the shells was plainly heard, of devotion which I saw at. Levallois
and who, perhaps, had perfect faith in was young peasant woman of
that of a
her husband's jesting assertion that the twenty-two or twenty-three who had
1 se was iron-clad. Every few mo- been night and day attending to the
ments the door of this house was swung wounded on the river line at imminent
open by sonic soldier or under-officer, risk of her own life. As she came in to
who came to report or complain. Every head-quarters all the officers rose and
half-hour a battalion arrived in front of greeted her with stalely courtesy. She
the house, coming cheerily up from its was faint with hunger and exposure,
post at some other point on the line, the and, when she sat down beside the Com-
men singing the Marseillaise and other mandant's wife, grew dizzy and turned
revolutionary songs. quite pale. She was well cared for,
The Commandant invited me to break- and the commandant himself cooked her
fast, and just as we were trying for the breakfast. For two weeks, the officer
fourth or fifth time to sit down to table, said, she had found time to eat only one
two gigantic artillery-men, grimy with meal a day; and it is only when she is
powder and smoke, burst into the room. starved out, said one, that she comes
"Commandant," said tin' grimier of the up to head-quarters. She gently dis-
two, " we see

nun on the top of a house claimed all honor for her fidelity. " I
just across the river, and they are spy- am not the only one willing to help,"
ing us out." The commandant betook she said. "There are fifty of us in
EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM. 4(11
all, and we don't mind a little rough- cry raised by the Communists that they
ing it." had been fired on by tin- citizens in
From this time forward the days were Paris. I heard one artillery-man say so
full of alarms. On the Sunday evening to his officer, who at once gave orders to
after my visit to Levallois the spectacle destroy any house whence a shot should
of the bombardment was grand beyond come.
description. The fire way from the The Commune was not happy in its
batteries at Point du Jour could lie external relations, which were of course
seen, —a fire line flashing death and
destruction at the southern forts and
at the gate of the Ternes. The bombs
fell like hail ; one conflagration lit up the
whole section of Paris behind the Tri-
umphal Arch, and so
increased in intensity
that the spectators
at a distance fancied
the regular troops
had entered and were
tiring the deserted
quarters. The Com-
munist soldiers ran
howling through the
streets, anxious to
report themselves.
almost despite or-
ders, at the scene of
the struggle. One
brave I remember
distinctly. He had
partaken somewhat
copiously of the juice
of the grape, and as
he made his way COMMUNIST FUNERAL AT NIGHT.
through the dense
crowds would stop
from time to time to invoke an imagi- mainly with the Prussians, and in which
nary person, whom he fancied was ex- M. Pascal Grousset, quondam journal-
postulating against his departure for the ist, played a prominent part. Each
scene of battle. ' ;
But it is my duty to time a communication was made to the
go." he would cry ; and at last he Prussian commander by an individual

tumbled quite helpless into a ditch by with a red scarf over his shoulder, the
the curb, and, supinely heroic, listened individual was severely snubbed. The
with drunken gravity to the cannonading. Commune had a singular confidence in
One formidable feature of this alarm the forbearance of the Germans, and
on Sunday night in question was the from the first prophesied that they
would not attempt to assi.st the army at yield their positions. As to surrender,
Versailles even were Thiers driven to they laughed such an idea to scorn.
extremes. " What !" said a French officer, who was
In those days it became evident that one of Dombrowski's staff, when 1 asked
an attempt would be made at a great him if surrender might not be the end.
culminating catastrophe should the Com- "Surrender? Never! 1 am sentenced
mune lose its battlesand either the to death twice. I can die onby once,
troops of the government or of Germany and I will sacrifice all the lives neces-
attempt to enter the city. All the sary to preserve my own and to make
houses in the vicinity of the barricades the movement succeed. This uniform,"
of defense inside the capital had their and he pointed to the dress of a line
windows pasted over with the long slips of officer, which he still wore, — " this uni-
paper used to keep the glass from break- form condemns me to death, and I will
ing when a great explosion is expected. not be caught, — and I will not run away
It was reported that certain sewers had either."
powder trains lain in them, and the Saying this, he tossed off a glass of
leaders of the Commune had sworn to champagne, in which he toasted the suc-
blow these sewers up rather than to cess of the Commune.
—
CHAPTER FORTY-NINE.
The Commune Suppresses the Conservative Journals. —

Insincere Professions of Liberalism. The Pere —
Duchene. — The
Unroofing of M. Thiers's ll<mse. —
The Communistic I<!« :il of Society.
Invasion of the Convents. —
Reminiscences of Auber the Composer. His Death. The Fall of the —
—
Vemlome Column. The Communists Rejoice over the Wreck of Imperial Splendor. Measures —
against Social Vices.
THE world lost confidence in the lib- former paper devoted a great part of its
eral professions of the Commune. space 1<> printing lists of the political
As soon as the two mad measures of spies wdiohad been employed under the
suppression of all the conservative second Empire and it is not very flat-
;
journals in Paris and the absolute nega- tering to the French character to note
tion of the liberty of conscience were that great numbers of denunciations
enforced, the Communists undertook to appeared in these papers, and were evi-
invest with a certain justice even the dently forwarded to the editor in the
most illiberal of their decrees, and in hope that under the exceptional circum-
suppressing half-a-dozen leading news- stances acts of private vengeance might
papers towards the middle of April, it be consummated. The printing of the
announced that this was done because it alphabetical list of the spies was a line
was impossible to tolerate in besieged stroke of the vindictive Communists.
Paris journals which openly advocated Naturally, the chief of the political
civilwar and which gave military infor- police under the Empire had kept every
mation to the enemy, as well as propa- letter of application for the degrading
gated calumny against the defenders of positions ; and these letters, now brought
the Republic. There is an amusing per- to light, condemned to obloquy many a.
version of the truth in this statement. man and woman who had before been
and a coolness in the remarks about counted respectable. The applicants
civil war which has rarely been equalled were usually people in reduced circum-
in degree. That the Communists thought stances, ladies and gentlemen who had
they were defenders of the Republic may no resources and
few hopes of any ;
be true, but that they were ignorant that and in most cases persons whose ante-
they themselves had provoked the civil cedents were not entirely satisfactory.
war which they appeared to deplore, The journal called the Commune en-
cannot be credited. lightened us witli the history of the
With the suspension of all the con- Black Cabinet in the Post Office, where
servative journals with the exception of the Imperial spies used to keep them-
the Slide and the Veriti, the sensational selves informed by opening private cor-
journals had full scope for their pe- respondence Of all communications be-
culiar verbosity. Paris Free and the tween important persons, when they
< 'nun a a ne were the two noteworthy thought it necessary. The Communal
papers which were most sought for by government also got out. at great expense,
the adherents of the Commune. The all the correspondence of the government
of the " Fourth of September," as it was M. Rochefort's paper seemed to have

called ; and the weekly instalments, sold dropped entirely < >ut of notice. The dis-
for a son each, had an enormous circula- gusting little Pere Duchene, filled with
tion. This, with the publication of the filthy and unquotable comments on the
correspondence of the Imperial family, political situation, had a circulation of
gave those of the Communists who had ninety thousand copies daily. This join-
any leisure plenty of reading. The nal was entirely written by one man, who
Estafette was the title of a newspaper pocketed about 3,000franesof clear profit
which had an immense circulation among daily. None of the Parisian journals
the lower classes. It was a hall-sheet, were allowed by the Communists to pass
retailed for a son, with spaces between the fortifications; persons carrying them
its spicy paragraphs filled with readily wex'e arrested, and were likely to be thrust
executed caricatures of the men of the into a filthy jail, where they might have,
moment. The only comic journal which as in the old Revolution, been confounded
nourished under the Commune was with the mass of the condemned and been
the Grrelot, which visited upon both sent off to be shot. The official journal,
contending parties its satiric criticism, which the Commune thought it necessary
In one of the numbers M. Thiers, attired to have in imitation of previous govern-
as an old lady, was furiously apostro- meiits. contained nothing remarkable
phizing a tiny child labelled Paris, save the Communal decrees, devoted to
Maman Thiers :
•• What in the name of upsetting everything that existed, and a
Heaven do you want?" Little Paris: most singular feuilleton, in which a North
"I want the moon."" And Little Paris American Indian did a vast amount of
was depicted as regarding the reflection scalping, and declaimed in the fashion
of the moon in a pail of water. of the Revolutionary orators of the time
This was looked on as a Versailles of Danton and Robespierre.
view of the situation : and the Column- Communist papers each had their an-
nists doubtless notified the editor of the ecdote of Dombrowski's bravery. One
Grelot that he would be under surveil- day. while making his way towards Issy,
lance. In another caricature in the same we were fold, and being accompanied
journal Citizen Courbet, the celebrated by only fourteen men, he suddenly heard
painter, was represented as holding a the Qui vice of a Versailles sentinel.
levee, at which all the bronze statues of His men turned pale with fright, and so
Paris were in attendance, having come faltered that they were all taken pris-
down from their respective pedestals to oners. But Dombrowski boldly ad-
beg him to save them. Courbet was also vaneed, and said. ••Versailles;" and
depicted as having already taken un- when required to give the countersign
der his protection the Yendoine column, he rushed upon the sentinel, made him a
Another comic journal of lesser impor- prisoner, dealing him a violent blow over
tance depicted M.Thiers as an owl sitting his head with his own gun. and brought
quietly on a tree labelled '• Restoration." him away before the little hand of chas-
A flood of light from the rising sun of setws, lying near at hand, discovered
the Commune was poured upon the owl's that thev might have captured the leader
face,and France, a rosy young woman, of the Communists' military forces. The
was looking at the bird and making scorn- truth w:is that Dombrowski had been
fill remarks. spared by shot and shell in places where
.
it seemed that no living man could con- to define. They had a vague remem-
tinue to exist. His soldiers imagined brance of the persecution of the Church in
him possessed of a charmed life. All the old Revolution, and the confiscation
the Polish officers depended much upon of the fat lands belonging to abbeys and
the French love of entrain for success. monasteries. They recognized, with
General Okolowicz never went into a the unerring instinct of the people, that
dangerous place without crying to his the Church was one of the strongest
men, " Who loves me follows me " ami ; pillars of monarchy; and they directed
wherever his voice was heard there were against it all the energy of their hatred.
men to respond to his call. They closed twenty-six of the principal
The unrooting of M. Thiers's mansion churches of Paris within a fortnight, and
in the Place St. Georges, in obedience put the seals of the Commune upon their
to the spiteful decree of the Commune, doors. Some of these churches were
was one of the silliest episodes of the reopened for the meetings of Commu-
great insurrection. The slouching sol- nistic clubs, as all popular assemblies
diers who were engaged in it were half were called. The priests who dared to
ashamed of the work, and one or two of protest were imprisoned, and the spolia-
them said so to those of us wdio went tionof some of the religious ediiices
to witness the operation. The razing of was boldly undertaken. The academi-
the house to the ground was never com- cian Maxime Ducamp, whose account of
pleted and M. Thiers probably con-
; the Commune is not entirely to be relied
sidered himself amply revenged upon upon, because he represents the most
Rochefort, —
a chance remark by whom violent and prejudiced section of the
in the Marseillaise was the origin of this bourgeoisie, or middle class, nevertheless
Communal measure, —
when he saw the has a fine faculty for putting his finger
popular pamphleteer arrested at Meaux, upon the weak points of the Commune.
dragged through the military prisons, He says, in his criticisms on the attempts
and, after a hasty trial, sent off across against liberty of conscience in the in-
the seas to the other end of the world surrection : "Those men who neither
If it be true that the first impulse was knew how to write out a passport or a
given to the insurrection by the mys- simple order, without asking for advice,
terious International Society, it is not needed no counsel when it came to at-
strange that one of the first blows struck tacking the Church. There they had
by the triumphant faction was at the nothing to do but to overturn, and the}'
established Church. But, whatever in- excelled at this work. To close churches
telligence may have prevailed when the to worship, and to open them to the
firstmeasures were dictated, the suc- clubs, to despoil them, and to imprison
ceeding ones were characterized by noth- priests, and to shoot them, — this was
ing save a blind fury. Hundreds of all very easy. It was a persecution
thousands of the working people of the which made its martyrs. It is impos-
capital were, and still are, rebellious sible even to-day to imagine in the name
against the authority of the Church ; and of what was done, because
liberty this
it is no exaggeration to say that scores among the Communists one could find
of thousands utterly repel the doctrines trace of no philosophy whatsoever. They
of and profess a kind of
Catholicism proclaimed themselves Materialists anil
materialism which they would be puzzled Atheists, without understanding what
—
406 EUHOPE IN STORM AND CALM.
(hose two terms meant. They had terialism. We may draw this conclusion
neither doctrine nor theory. Like tamed from the fact that Robespierre, much ad-
parrots, they said over and over again mired as a director of the guillotine by
words the sense of which they knew noth- many members of the Commune, was at
ing about. Their incoherence was such the same time blamed and despised, be-
that they were in permanent contradic- cause he had, as they said, invented a
tion to themselves, and did not know it. Supreme Being. The government would
A moment before Ins death Theophile willingly, imitating Anacharsis Clootz,
Kerre wrote to his sister: ' Let it lie well have declared themselves the personal
understood, — no religious ceremony. I enemies of .lesus Christ, whose reputa-
die a Materialist, as 1 have lived.' Then tion .Ink's Yallcs had declared was en-
he added :
'
Place a crown of immortelles tirely overrated. Thus it is easy to see
upon the tomb of our mother.' They that every violent measure against (he
were all They repudiated the
like this. clergy was adopted without discussion at
belief, but they preserved the emblem of the Hotel de Ville."
it. They called themselves partisans The Communists carried their denial
ofeqnality, liberty, and fraternity. This of the liberty of conscience so far that
was their device. They inscribed it as they took' pains to prevent the children
the protocol of their oflieial acts, on from attending church, and would not
their flags, on the walls. even let the burial-service be read over
"They did not understand that it was the dead. One day in April the old
by Christianity alone that the peoples be- church in the Lue St. Jacques was in-
came free and tin' masters ok their own vaded by the Federals. Sentinels were
destiny. To suppress future life, and the stationed at the doors; the few kneeling
belief in the reward promised to courage, worshippers were informed that they
s ici ilice. and virtue, is to bring man must arise and depart, or it would be
to :i condition in which he takes no the worse for them. The priests in the
heed for his sonl, and seeks here below sacristy were visited by two of the dele-
only immediate enjoyment. If we add gates of the Commune, who said they
to this tin' theory of Darwin, of which had come to make a requisition. Just
the Communists had retained only the at that time a. funeral procession arrived
dangerous part, we arrive fatally at the ami stopped in front of the church. The
struggle for existence, which is a perma- mourners and friends entered to attend
nent insurrection, and at the theory of the mass which had been appointed for
selection, which le:ids straight to des- that hour. The sentinels informed them
potism. that they could not pass, and, as they
"The Commune, perhaps without know- found this very strange, the commanding
ing it, really wished to formulate its ideal officer said, "All that is out of fashion
of society accordingto these principles, now. Clear out with your dead man and
a state of things which would have much take him to the cemetery! That is the
resembled a return to primitive bar- best thing von can do. — by far more de-
barism. By the application of such cent than to havc> him sprinkled with a
ideas we get back to the stone age. The lot, of dirty water by the priests."
Commune perished too soon to unveil or The invasion of the convents and the
precise its philosophical system, which search for compromising documents and
would have been of a purely animal ma- evidence of the crimes which the lower
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 4G7
classes have always believed were eom- eighty-eighth and eighty-ninth year he
mittedin the mysterious religious edifices, was as fresh and apparently as untram-
attracted great attention from all who melled by the ordinary infirmities of age
were in Paris during the insurrection. as a man of sixty. He was usually
In the Picpus, a celebrated religious in- surrounded by a bevy of charming young
Faubourg St. Antoine, the
stitution in the women, who delighted in offering him
Communal searchers announced one day public profession of their admiration ;
that they had found something very and he accepted these delicate feminine
horrifying. They came to one cell, offices, the presentation of bouquets, and
which the terrified nun who was com- pretty compliments, with a grave and
pelled to serve them as guide refused to stately courtesy, which belonged to the
open ;so they forced an entrance, and elder school, and of which the new gen-
there found in a narrow dungeon three eration has scarcely preserved a trace.
nuns, who had been imprisoned for nine He was a great favorite under the
years. Neither of the three women had Empire, both with the government and
sense enough to understand that deliver- the people and I remember to have
;
ance was at hand, but each seemed dimly seen him standing hand in hand with
to realize that something strange had Rossini, on the occasion of a great eon-
happened. None of them could explain cert given at the Palais de l'lndustrie,
why they had been imprisoned. In the receiving for more than twenty minutes
cellars of this convent the Communists a tremendous ovation. Wreaths, crowns,
dug up the earth, and announced that and flowers were showered about the
they there found many skeletons and two composers who had contributed so
bones of children. This statement was much to the intellectual enjoyment of
naturally denied with much warmth by the world. The hundreds
of musicians
all the Catholic population whereupon ; applauded as enthusiastically as did the
the Commune announced that it would twenty-five thousand persons in the audi-
place the testimony of its delegates with- ence. I question if there was ever a
out doubt, and opened an inquest on the greater popular reception accorded to a
subject, which was swallowed up in the musician. Auber had once been strik-
absorbing excitement of the greater ingly handsome. His face, which was
events when the regular troops entered. very pale ; his deep-set eyes, which still
In these dangerous and disturbed days retained a bit of their quondam sparkle ;
of the early part of May one sometimes his white hair, and his dignity of man-
saw walking tranquilly on the boulevard, ner, — made a pleasant and a striking im-
asif there had been no interruption to pression. Persons who saw him in the
his daily habits or the serenity of his lobby of the Opera Comique, which is a
intellectual life, the venerable composer kind of temple to his talent, for we can
Auber, the "young old" man, as he was scarcely accord him genius, would turn
called by his compatriots, who persisted and inquire who he was. The old man
in giving him a reputation which pos- who had had such a long and pleasant ca-
terity perhaps will refuse to accord him. reer died after au illness of aday or two,
Auber was of that race of Parisians in hismansion in the Rue St. Georges, and
which leads an active and vigorous life scarcely any public notice was taken of
long after the allotted age of threescore his funeral, for most of his friends were
and ten has been reached and in his ; absent, and the general public had other
468 EUROPE IX STURM AND CALM.
things than music and the memories of Commune for the taking down of the
its composer i" engage their attention. Column than engineers asserted that its
One of the illogical notions of the fallwould shake the foundations of the
Commune was that in the event of its most solid houses in the neighborhood ;
success, it would be able to promote and all the stupid shopkeepers for a mile
general and lasting peace throughout around papered their huge windows
gla*-s
Europe; and early in its ephemeral reign with lone- strips of thick brown paper
it decreed that the election of the Yeii- to deaden the results of the concussion.
ddme Column had been an insult to Many people nrged that only the statue
sister nations, and should be atoned for of Napoleon in his Csesaric robes should
by the destruction of this memorial of be removed. The Commune had, how-

military glory. Speakers at meetings ever, made its contract with an able and
during the siege had ofteu hinted at the ingenious engineer, who, for the sum of
destruction of the Column, saying that ."..i.ooo francs, was to lay the monument
the French nation had no interests save low before a certain day, agreeing to pay a
those strictly allied with peace 1
, and, forfeitof 600 francs for each day's delay.
therefore, should not maintain a standing The Column, which was erected in imita-
menace and memento of triumph. Many tion of theAntonine Column, at Kome,
a Frenchman who had no sympathy with was begun in 1800, one year after Na-
the ideas of tin Commune had penned a
1
poleon's greatest campaign and the ;
philippic against thegreat bronze column. military administration placed twelve

Auguste Barbier was not a great poet, hundred captured cannon at the disposi-
but he was a very good one, and when he tion of the architects. This enormous
wrote his indictment against the Idol, as weight of amounting to one
bronze,
he called the Column, he created a. pro- million eight hundred thousand pounds,
found impression. He awoke an echo was cast into plates, carved in lias-reliefs
which the Bonapartist family would have representing the exploits of the Imperial
much preferred to leave sleeping. Victor campaign. Eachwas three feet
plate
Hugo had also cursed the gigantic eight inches ami was separated
high,
"Monument to murder " in verse none from the one above it by a. band, on
the less eloquent because filled with which were inscribed the names and
malice and political venom. Barbier dates of the various engagements. The
wrote a magnificent allegory, in which he pedestal, established on the site of the
described Napoleon as spurring the still more famous one on which stood
French people to exhaustion, yet de- the bronze equestrian statue of Louis
manding that they should goon, and for- XIV., was thirty feet and the high,
ever on. His description of the entry of column itself rose to the height of one
the Allies into Paris, in 1814, and the hundred and eighteen feet. The eagles
manner in which the French people, upon the pedestal wen very artistically
1
which hail been mastered by Napoleon I., carved, and each weighed live hundred
had been compelled to humble itself pounds. The effigy of Bonaparte, placed
before the rude northern men and the on high, came down twice in successive
warriors of middle Europe, excelled in generations; and now the third was to
simple eloquence and pathos any of the fall. On the side facing the Tuileries
protests against the Second Empire. Gardens, and just under the dome on
>,'o sooner was the day set by the which the Csesar- Emperor was mounted,
EUROPE IN STORM ANT) CALM. 460
was this inscription, " This monument of Napoleon's figure, thrice waved the
was raised in memory of the glory of tricolor, the flag of France, and then
the Grand Empire." tore it from its staff and threw it into
It was said that some of the <>ld Inva- the square. Very little responsive cheer-
lides wept when the Column fell; but ing came from the crowds below, but a
they were at least the only persons who band was heard feebly playing the Mar-
sufferedany marked chagrin. For sev- seillaise.
eral days before the fall of the Column In the square, which, as we learned
crowds thronged the line de la Pais and on that day, was henceforth to be called
the adjacent streets, the workmen and Place Internationale, a large number of
workwomen being especially anxious to the celebrities of Paris Rouge were col-
be present at the ceremony. Many quar- lected. Rochefort, accompanied by his
rels arose daily in these gatherings, and daughter, his sister, and his secretary,
sometimes a party of Communists

irate was one of the first to arrive, and was
carried off to prison the men and women assigned a prominent window. Many
who had dared to express themselves of the radical members of the late <
'or/is
against tin 1
triumphant faction. On the LSgislatif were in the throng, but re-
10th of May the official journal an- received little notice from any one.
nounced in a modest paragraph that the Among the members of the Commune
demolition of the Column would take were Arnault, Jacques Durand, Portot,
place at two P.M. A cordon of cav- and Fortune, to whom was assigned the
alry, the Republican Guard, clad in red, speech after the descent of the Column.
white, and blue, despite the Communistic Just as the workmen had begun at the
hate of the tricolor, was stationed on capstan, two hours after the appointed
the Rae de la Paix, and presently the time, and the cables attached to the sum-
usual crowd was so increased that the mit of the Column were beginning to
masses were packed in with scarcely tighten, a rope snapped, and one of the
breathing-room. Every few minutes an laborers dropped, half killed. He was
orderly galloped through the narrow line taken away, and others mounted at once
which was left open, bearing news of to the summit to repair the broken
fresh disaster or probable victory to the cable. The excitable crowd surged
up
head-quarters. and down, and many of the more violent
In the Place Vendome, and from the anarchists talked of imprisoning the con-
other side, battalions of troops going tractor, who seemed to have failed in
out to the light beyond the fortifications his scheme.

were singing lusty songs. Workmen But just then the men at the capstan
mounted on the balcony at the Column's began to work again the Column gave a;
top, whence so many people, tired of slight shiver, and an immense scream,
life, had cast themselves down to die. half tenor, half delight, arose from the
manoeuvred the ropes which descended people. Yet it was necessary to pro-
to a gigantic capstan, erected at a safe cure another cable. Workmen were de-
distance from the bed of brush and ma- spatched to the Ministry of the Marine,
nure upon which the glory of Napoleon and another hour of waiting was endured
was finally to repose. Towards two by the people, who were profoundly con-
o'clock a certain Colonel Henry mounted vinced that the Clash would be terrible.
to the top, and, clinging round the feet At last a sharp whistle warned every
470 EUROPE IN STORM AND AIM.
one to watch, and just as a black-bearded ing up the ladders on to the statue and
gentleman behind me observed that he the crumbling ruins. The contractor
had been a civil engineer for eighteen had, after taking off one of the great
years, and that he would stake his repu- plates of bronze, made a deep incision
tation on the statement that the Column in the stone work. The Column was
could never be got down that way, there then shored up by two huge beams, one
was a resonant crack, and the great mass of which snapped like an asparagus
descended rapidly through the air. A shoot when the fall began. The Column
dull,dead sound was burst as it fell, and the statue was sepa-
heard as the weight rated from the dome. A sailor jumped
crashed through the upon and was about to crush the face
it,
pavement, and then of the bronze Napoleon with a stone,

an overwhelming but was forbidden by an officer. Dozeus
cloud of dust arose of people rushed upon the Place, and
and CO n C e a 1 ed carried off bits of the stone and of the
everything. shattered plating.
But the memorial Fortune's speech was neither long nor
of Imperial glory eloquent, nor was it listened to. The
EWS0DE OK THE COMMUXE —THE FALLEN' t '.ESAU. — THE COLUMN VEN'IHIME.
was fallen, and Communists embraced only noteworthy sentence in it was:

Communists in the ecstasy of their de- ••This is the day of vengeance; this is
light, ami women ran hither and yon the defiance hurled at the assassins of
clapping their hands. The Federal cav- Versailles; this is the day when the peo-
alry was pushed back by the gigantic ple reclaim their rights," of which — all
rush, and retired, growling, and brandish- was somewhat During the
indefinite.
ing sabres of which no one was afraid, whole afternoon the sullen booming of
towards the barricades at the entrance of the cannon was heard and many an- ;
the Place. The smoke and dust having nounced that the Prussians were tiring a
cleared away, we saw men mounted on salute to the Commune, in honor of its
the pedestal, and brandishing red flags dignified conduct in taking down the
of the Commune, and other men climb- war memorial. lint this is only a
EUROrE TN STORM AND CALM. 471
sample of the absurd rumors that pre- j n riotous dissipation. When the guard
vailed. arrived on the night in question, a large
It was about this time that the Com- number of officers were found supping
mune, which had declared most radical sumptuously with an equal number of
measures against the vice of the
great capital, and particularly
against the legal recognition of a

certain vice, sent a strong detach-
ment of soldiers to close the cele-
brated Cafe American). This brill-
iant establishment, on one of the

central boulevards, was, I believe,
called American because the proprie-

tor had long exercised the profession
of a restaurateur in America. It
was without doubt one of the most

luxurious establishments in the
world. The private cabinets were
adorned with gold the panels were
;
of satin, embroidered in superb

colors; elegant pianos, sideboards
A prcpos des jcan-foutres de
loaded with crystal, and inlaid ta- patisseries bons patriate* a la <jvcrre euih
motion pour la sv pjy£V

r'
bles, as well as the faultless cuisine Sa ijrninlr
fecture de police.
and the excellent wines, had given Aree son aposUopkzS
the cafe an international reputa- gardes nut'
FAC-SIMILE OP A TITLE-
eito'jens
tion. was built towards the close
It PAGE.
Gai [e i *
of 1867, when the Great Exhibition ...

i .. .
had shown the Paris tradesmen what women, whose costly ap-
a mint of money might lie made out parel was their only claim
of strangers. The public supper- to consideration. The
rooms were rarely opened before midnight, officers were seized, thrown into vans, and
and were only frequented by strangers, a sent to the front, where they were trans-
few fashionable and dissipated Parisians, ferred to the trenches, and made to work
and the elite of the dissolute women of with pickaxe and shovel. The women were
Paris. Many of the cafes had already ] lacked off to prison and to hard labor;
been visited by the Communists, and the the waiters in the cafe were seized, and
garcons, or waiters, taken to serve in the all who had no excuse were drafted.
army, lint the Cafd Americain had up The next day a sentinel was placed at
to this time enjoyed a singular iinmu- the entrance of the <:uf<\ and no one
nity. The officers of the innumerable was allowed to enter. The shutters were
Communist staffs, resplendent with fancy finally put up, ami the brilliant throng
decorations, were accustomed to stroll of loungers on the terrace in front was
into these places towards midnight when seen no more until the arrival of the
they were off duty, and there to indulge regulars.
CHAPTER FIFTY.
The Narrow Escape from a Reign of Terror. — The Men who Composed (he Communal Councils. — The
Beginning of the End. — The Entry of the Regular Troops.— The Tocsin. — The Night Alarm.
Tl (WARDS
tended directly
close, the Commune
its
the establishment
to
the " committee of public safety":
it was then that Delesclnze, Kudes,
and
and
of a '• reign of terror." It did not enter Gambon were joined to the dreaded or-
coollyupon such a course, but seems to ganization. It is easy to see what
have been driven to it. both by its own would have been their course from the
despemte situation and by the madness first proclamation which they made, and
of its From the 1st to the

supporters. which was dated the 24th of Floreal,
".'lid May, no day was without its
of year '7'.); or in the bourgeois calendar,
revolutionary measures, some of them May 14th, 1871. This proclamation re-
fantastic and ridiculous, others savagely quired that till citizens should carry con-
practical and dangerous to the security stantly about them cards establishing
of tin' upper and middle classes. A their identity, by giving their names,
'•
committee of public safety," composed professions, ages, domiciles, numbers of
of resolute men like Arnaud, Mil- the legions, battalions, or companies, to
liere, Ranvier, and Felix Pyat, had the which they belonged ; and furthermore,
most extraordinary powers delegated their personal description. With this
to it. The Commune began to feel the strange law in full operation, no one
lack of money, so the great railways had would have been safe from arrest.
to pay up their back taxes; and in one Thousands of people could have been
morning the representatives of the lead- swept into great barracks and prisons,
ing corporations brought into the Com- and packed together there as they were
munal otliees many hundreds of thousands in the old Revolution, on the simple pre-
of francs. On the 4th of May, the text thai their identity was not clearly
Commune abolished all political and established. The "committee of public
professional oaths as useless and cum- safety" alleged, as the reason forthis law,
1 irons formalitiesand on the same day
; that it was necessary to know who were
it decreed the destruction of the " Ex- friends and who were enemies. Iu
piatory Chapel," as the modest edifice other words, it created a class of sus-
dedicated to the memory of Louis XVI. pects, had once got them into
and if it
is called. prison, who knows but that it might have

A
few days later, the Communists be- made victims of them as it did of the
came bolder. Citizen Fontaine was hostages?
named as delegate to assume charge of Meantime, the civil officers of the Com-
the confiscation of the estates of the mune were scourged with the fear that
churches and monasteries within the the Versailles government would achieve
domain of the Commune. Presently, a by money what it had not, thus far, suc-
change was made in the membership of ceeded in doing by force. They there-
fore decreed that there should be " civil frequently reorganized, this body, on the
commissioners" representing the Com- 20th of May, issued a warning to all
mune to act in harmony with, in other individuals who might think of offering
words watch over, the generals of the
to or accepting money as bribes, that they
three armies of the ('•immune These would bring themselves under the penal-
generals were Dombrowski, La Cecilia, ties for the crime of high treason, and
and Wrobleski. At this time, the hand would immediately be brought before
of Versailles was seen by the Commu- court-martials.
nists in every misfortune, however little In these exciting days, when the fatal
effect it might have on their campaigns. weakness of the Communist, army was
When the great cartridge factory in the beginning to disclose itself, the Com-
Rue Rapp was blown up, and one hun- munal legislative body still found time
dred persons were killed, this was to devote a little attention to matters of
instantly attributed by the Commune to education, and it issued an older sup-
the enemy at Versailles. pressing all the subsidized theatres, in
Another decisive step towards the conformity, to use its own language,
"Reign of Terror" was made on May " with the principles established by the
17th, when the Citizen Raoul Rigault, first Republic, and enunciated by the
procureur de la Commune, presented law of Germinal in the year 11.'" But
'
with a great flourish of trumpets the the crowning stroke of audacity was the
following project. " The Commune of decree which indicates, more clearly than
Paris, in view of the immediate necessity anything else, the desperate measures
thereof, decrees : Article 1. — A jury of upon which the Commune was almost
accusation can provisionally, in the case resolved. It was published on the 20tb
of persons accused of crimes or political of May, and read as follows: "The

otfenses, pronounce penalties so soon as inhabitants of Paris are invited to return
it has decided upon the culpability of to their homes within forty-eight hours.
the accused. Article 2. — Sentences After that time their stocks and bonds
shall be decided by the majority of the and the registries thereof will be burned."
votes. Article 3. — Sentences shall be This emanated from the Central Com-
executed within twenty-four hours." mittee, and was signed by a man named
Raoul Rigault hastened to add that he Grelier. It was expected to bring back
would rather allow a culpable person to many thousands of persons who had
escape than to have a single innocent taken refuge in Versailles. It was the
one injured and by this single phrase
; vindictive menace of the non-property-
he betrayed himself, for he knew that if holding class against the property-hold-
this savage law were put into operation ers. As a witty French friend of mine
it would entangle in its meshes the inno- [Hit it, Communists invited the prop-
the
cent and the guilty alike. Many simi- erty-holders to come home and be
lar projects were brought forward in the beaten, and threatened that if they did
meetings of the Communists, and if the not accept this invitation their houses and
insurrection had lasted another month their proofs of wealth would be burned.
they would all have been in full opera- "Nous avons mieux que cela,"
refuse"
tion. said the bourgeois; and they remained in
Presently new changes were made in Versailles and the other suburban towns
the Committee of Public Safety, and, where they had taken refuge.
General Cluseret's trial before the existence of a Supreme Being, and were
Commune was the last exciting incident rapidly organizing a grand scheme of ven-
previous to the entry of the regular geauce upon the whole property-holding
troops. Cluseret conducted his own class. This company contained in its
defense with threat coolness and modern- ranks, contrary to what might be suc-
tion, responded to the most idiotic and posed from its revolutionary actions,
treacherous insinuations with frankness few men of distinguished ability, and
and courage, and when he was acquitted, few who had ever been heard of outside
after one or two of the more violent the walls of Paris before. Blanqui, the
members had claimed his head, with sublime old revolutionist, whose whole
ferocity worthy of their prototypes of life seems to have been a blind protest
the old revolution he made the assem- against the evils of monarchy, and who
bled members a little speech, in which was no sooner let out of prison than he
he said that they had seen lit to arrest undertook some conspiracy which speed-
liim and had now seen fit to discharge ily brought him back to durance vile,
him. them no malice, and was

lie bore — Blanqui had no chance to sit in the
willing to serve them again if he could. Communal assembly. After actively en-
It is amusing to reflect that the most gaging intwo or three abortive revolu-
important charge brought against Gen- lions, which preceded the great final
eral Cluseret by his incompetent and outbreak of the Commune, he hail gone
ignorant associates in office was that he into the southern departments to prepare
bad boasted that his position was worth the faithful in those sections for the
a million. " Cluseret," said the apes in coming change at Paris, anil was ar-
unifinni who denounced him. "is going rested and placed in a fortress. Blan-
to tiii it traitor and sell us for a million." qui was a man of superior talent but ;
As the Genera] himself told the Com- at the lime of his connection with the
iiiiii lists, — and as there seems little reason Commune he had been so long in prison
to doubt, — the whole story arose over the that be had lost nearly all knowledge of
remark of an American who called upon modern progress, as well as his conli-
liiin for a pass with which to leave denee in the professions of moderate
Paris, and who jocosely said to Cluseret Republicans in France. When he was
on taking leave of him, '
u
You were finally liberated from prison, seven or
not worth much money a little time ago, eight years after lie had been sentenced
but your place is worth a million now." to "perpetual detention" for his partiei-
This Cluseret repeated, and was forth- pation ill the Commune, he was better
with denounced by some busybody. acquainted with the courses of the stars
The members company of dar-
of this ami the phenomena of the heavens than
ing adventurers, who thus for more than with every-day politics ; and be survived
six weeks maintained the greatest in- his liberation but a short time. There
SUirection of modern times, kept up a is something pathetic in the history of
very vigorous defense against an angry, this old man. nearly thirty years in
and, on the whole, well-equipped army prison because of his undying hatred of
of tegular troops, overturned nearly illibcralism, as well as because of his
even important and fundamental prin- valiant attempts to overturn the govern-
ciple of society, suppressed religion, meiils which displeased him. In the
scornfully kicked at morals, denied the closing years of his life, while he was
-
EUROPE IN STORM AND CADI. 47. )
still a prisoner at Clervaux, it is said died philosophically, like Delescluze, or,

that be slept all dayand stood wakeful with a certain bravado, like Milliere and
all night at bis window, studying the Raoul Rigault. They had boldly staked
.sky, to which be bad been compelled to their existenceupon the success of their
turn bis thoughts because tlie lower experiment, and probably the more in-
world was closed to him. telligent of them were sorry to survive
The origins and callings of most of its failure.
the members of the Commune were quite The end came with startling sudden-
humble. Amonroux was a batter; An- ness. At one o'clock on the morning of
drieu, an accountant; Arnaud. a manu- Monday, the 23d of May, I was turn-
facturer Arnold, an architect
; Assi ; ing homeward from the central boule-
and Adrial, mechanics Bergeret was a ;
vards, after a long conversation with a
commercial traveller Beslay, who was ;
marble-worker of Belleville, who bad
a member of the Finance Committee, was given me an animated account of a
described as "retired from business;" skirmish at the gates of the town from
Billioray was an Italian painter. There which he had just returned, when, at
were workers in morocco, in brpss, in the corner of the Hue Caumartin, I met
bronze ; bookbinders, shoemakers, stone- three friends, and we took our way
cutters, dyers, bank clerks, millers, together in the magnificent moonlight
chemists, jewellers, house-painters, to the upper story of a huge mansion in
eliairmakers, turners, photographers, the Boulevard Malesherbes. The friend,

.sculptors in wood, commission agents, who was the lessee of this apartment,
doctors, wine-touts, carpenters, lawyers, invited us to remain there overnight,
horse-doctors, corset-makers, teachers, putting at our disposition the rooms
civil engineers, and furniture-makers, in which bad recently been deserted by bis
this motley gathering of men who hoped family, and mentioned his conviction
to sway the destinies of Paris, and by that important events were close at
their conduct to influence the politics of hand.
Europe. Finally, there were in the Even as he spoke there came a faint
Communal Council no less than nine sound borne on the midnight breeze as of
journalists, of whom two or three were music in the distance, or like the clang of
vigorous writers, and appeared pro- village bells. Presently it came again,
foundly convinced of the justice of the and at last swelled into a great harmony
insane movement in which they were inwhich was at once superb and exciting.
volved. Delescluze, Courmet, Vermorel, One of the party —
an Anglo- Parisian —
Valles (afterwards the editor of a Radical sprang out on to the balcony, listened
paper in Paris), Vesinier, all had good for a moment, then rushed back into the
"
local reputations. Cluseret, Gustave room and cried, " It is the tocsin !
Courbet, the well-known ami eccentric It was, indeed, the tocsin ; and. should
painter, and Gustave Flourens, were. I live for a century longer, I should
perhaps, the only Communists whose hope never to heal' again so grand and
reputation had extended beyond the so imposing an alarum. This night of
limits of their own country. The ma- May was, save for the occasional crack-
jority of these men escaped alive out of ing of far-off musketry, so tranquil, so
the great whirlwind of the last of May, full of perfume of flowers and of the
1871. Those who were brought to bay fresh, green leaves, so abounding in the
lusty life of the opening summer, that it was no doubt of it: the regular army
appealed I" revery rather than aroused had entered, and the great final battle
to action. Uutil the lirst notes from was at hand.
the mellow bells the central district of By-and-by the noise of the tocsin
l'aiis was as quiet as a village. As we faded away into the rush of the night
hail walked home we had seen here and breeze; and when we were weary of the
there a belated soldier dragging his sore heavy rumble of cannon going to the
feet wearily along, or a gossiping group front, and caissons jolting by, we stolle
of servant-girls; but nothing to call to to and from sheer fati<me slept
bed,
miiiil the danger and the excitement of untildawn. In the morning, when I
war. Te inntes after the brazen awoke, after a dream of a garden Idled
clangor of the huge bells in the tower of with fruits and flowers, the lirst thing
Notre Dame had been borne to our which I heard was a fresh voice singing :
startled ears, soldiers, cannon, drums,

trumpets, and bugles seemed to have " Bon Francais doit vivre pour elle,
sprung out of the solid earth. Men Et pour elle bon Francais doit mourir."
were shouting to each other from the

roofs of houses and watch-fires
; lights '1'he sempiternal gamin, the GavrocJi e
sprung up on Montmartre little bodies ;
of the barricades, was already on hand,
of National Guards hastened to group — as ready for a combat as for a song.
themselves into battalions and the wild ;
As soon as my companions were astir
noles of the bugles echoed from every we started to leave the house, but were
quarter. niel by the concierge with the statement
We sat long on the balcony, high that no one could venture into the street,
above the trees, listening to the grand that a battle was imminent, and that
anthem of alarm which resounded from we had barricades on all sides of us.
Belleville down to Notre Dame. Iron: We heard cries of fright beneath our
St. Sulpice around to St. Germain des windows, and these were amply ex-
1'res. Then, far away, too, where, as we plained by the sibilation of the shells,
afterwards learned, the enemy had just whieh now began to pass over the roof
entered, some bells pealed their chimes ;

in all directions. From the front win-
others gave solemnly the three regular dows of our lofty apartment we could
clangs, whieh, when heard amid the see the dust caused by the crash of the
furious beating of the drum, produced a falling projectiles; and a conflagration
most remarkable effect. Ammunition- on the Rue de Kivoli was already send-
wagons rattled away right and left; ing up columns of dense black smoke,
and on the corner of the Rue Royale, In the Place de Concorde we could
la
near the noble Corinthian front of the distinctly hear the noise of artillery and ;
Madeleine, a great body of soldiers was all along tin- Boulevard Malesherbes we
ami we heard presently the
collected, saw the defenders of the Commune, the
monotonous clatter of their footsteps, soldiers in uniform, and the boys and
Presently, mingled with the clangor of girls from the workman's quarter taking
the and
bells, the roll of the drums, up the paving-stones and piling them into
and the rumble of the batteries, we barricades, cutting down sycamores and
heard the hissing and the bursting of dragging them hither and yon for the
shells, now near, now far away. There fabrication of chevaux defrise. Prespntlv
we were joined by two or three Ameri- all its wonted activity, was as silent as
cans, who had been compelled to lend a a country graveyard. We could look
hand at the barricades before they could directly down upon the barricade, de-
pass, and who had only escaped arrest fended by two small six - pounders,
by stating that they had acquaintances handled with great skill by half-a-dozen
in this our house, near the door of which men dressed From the ac-
as soldiers.
they had been seized. A sergeant, with tion of these men we judged that they
half-a-dozen men, was marking out a were confronting a force by which they
semicircular line of defense at the were likely soon to be attacked, and we
mouth of the Rue Pasquier, and watch- watched their movements with breathless
ful guards brought into the line of labor- anxiety. As ithappened this barricade
ers all men who chanced to enter the was one of the keys of the situation.
street. We saw many who refused to The attack upon it from the church of
work smartly rapped over the heads with St. Augustin was one of tin mosl ob- 1
the butts of guns and in some cases,

; stinate and vigorous made by the regulars
when a man had escaped, men ran after during the street fighting; and by our
him and dragged him back. The doors accidental visit to this apartment we
and windows on the lower floors of all had secured a capital view of one of the
shops and houses were rapidly closed, most important episodes of the insurrec-
and at nine o'clock the Boulevard Males- tion.
herbes, which at seven had displayed
478 EUROPE IN STORM AM) CALM.
CHAPTER FIFTY-ONE.
Streetlight in'g :is a Science. —-The Barricades. A Ruse J' Gut — rre. — Looking Down on a Battle. — The
Burning of the Rue Royale. —The Defence of Montmartre. — Genera] Dombrowski's Death.
time the Communists now perceived were

-
Commu-
IN"ourshort
a
barricade," as we now called

in
nists, well fortified

tilled
behind
with
barricades.
it, received orders from some authority A great noise of tiring now came from
further back in the centre of the town. the Champs Elysees, and we heard a
The marines manoeuvred their little bugle sounding the attack. By and by
guns, Gred away in the direction of the the sharp-shooters retired in confusion
St. Augustin Church, which we could behind their barricade, and looking down
not sec, although we could get a glimpse upon the barricade, we saw that they
of part of the broad avenue leading had left four dead men behind them.
directly to it. There was much excite- At this moment the circular barricade
ment after this preliminary shot, and in at the coiner of the Hue Pasquier was de-
a few minuteswas answered by the
it serted by its defenders, who had gone to
boom of a cannon, and solid shot came reinforce the greater one, extending di-
crashing against the great paving-stones, rectly across the Boulevard Malesherbes.
upsetting the little guns and raising such The rushing sound of the solid shot com-
a and smoke that we could see
dust ing from the church of St. Augustin was
nothing for two or three minutes. When now incessant. The Versaillais had got
we looked, one man was down. The the battery at work, anil were preparing
marines had taken off their hats and to make an attack, after having made a
were shouting, ''Vive /./ Commune," break in the barricades.
and forty or fifty National Guards were Towards four o'clock the storm of
cowering behind the barricade which had shot and shell became so deadly and
been hastily repaired. Crash came an- overwhelming that our rooms were hardly
other solid shot again. The stones flew, safer than the open street. The Commu-
and two men were carried off. At this nists had taken possession of all the bal-
juncture, sharp-shooters were thrown conies behind the line of their defense.
out in front of our barricade, and aery and sent shot frequently into the win-
arose in the street that the regulars were 1
dows of the houses outside their lines,
about to charge. The house in which because of their suspicion that the
we were was what is known in Paris as regular troops had occupied some of
an Hot. Standing at the angle of two those houses. About half past four we
streets, it commanded a view in three witnessed probably the most singular
directions. From the front windows we incident of the whole insurrection. One
could look directly down upon the bar- of our company who was watching at a,
ricade just described, on the right upon front window cried out, " The Liners — !
the Boulevard Malesherbes and on the ; The Liners!" We all ran to see, and
left into two or three streets, which we there surely enough was a Versaillais
advancing towards the barricade timidly, Through the rising smoke we could
while the insurgents were loudly cheering dimly discern the figure of a woman,
him in token of welcome. One of the tall, angular, ferocious, brandishing a
Communists held his musket reversed in gun, and bringing it down with resound-
the air, and shook it invitingly. But ing thwacks upon the heads of those
suddenly the regulars appeared from all assailants who braved the terrible fire.
corners, came running across the street She had evidently just arrived in the
from the direction of the Rue Boissy barricade. Every ten minutes, which
d'Anglais, and stood huddled together as seemed hours, there was a great clamor
if waiting some general movement. One of bullets and cannon. When it ceased
held up his hand to his comrades at the the Versaillais had all disappeared, the
chinch as if urging them not to lire, and insurgents were once more crouched
then cautiously entered the barricade, behind the barricades, and many of the
liewas received with great joy, embraced, wounded were crying out touching
and called endearing names. Others appeals for the suspension of hostilities
were inclined to follow him, when all at until they could lie helped away. A
once a suspicion seemed to thrill the Versaillais ran out of a door in the
Communist lines, —
this might be a ruse Rue Pasquier, and tried to drag in the
da guerre, a stratagem and twenty in-
; dead man shot by the Communist officer.
surgents leaped upon the piled-up stones, A bullet whizzed close to his ear. He
and pointed guns straight into the
their dropped the dead man, who festered in
faces of the regulars, who were now the sun for hours thereafter. An insur-
pressing forward, and were so taken gent lay dead at the right corner of our
by surprise that the}' crouched behind, honse on the boulevard. An old gray-
looking pitifully up, as if they expected haired liner reclined directly opposite
the fatal shots. Just at this juncture a our house in a door-way, looking as if
Versaillais officer appeared at the cor- he had sat down, and fallen asleep.
ner of the Hue Pasquier, where a number Half a dozen of the red-breeched soldiery
of hismen stood undecided. lie angrily were heaped together in front of the
called them back, and, throwing away barricade;and behind the stones the
the gun which he had been carrying, wounded were numerous, and their am-
drew his sword. Twenty or thirty liners bulance men were hard at work. No
ran swiftly, and succeeded in reaching sooner had the Versaillais retreated
the court-yard of a neighboring house, than their batteries began tiring solid
the door of which they forced open. A shot and shell again. From five o'clock
Communist officer shot a liner as he until dark the musketry and shelling were
ran ; the man dropped dead in his tracks ;
unrelenting. The insurgents retaliated
and then a frightful hand-to-hand milie by subjecting the Rue Fasquier and the
ensued. The explanation of this singu- right side of the Boulevard Malesherbes
lar proceeding was obvious. The regu- to a veritable bombardment. The walls
lars had intended to take the barricade and floors of all the adjacent houses
by stratagem. The insurgents had hoped trembled, and bullets whistled once more
to incitethem to desert and join their through our apartments, breaking mir-
forces; and when each party found rorsand cutting curtains. A gentleman
its hopes were vain the fight was in- from St. Louis, who had frequently been
evitable. cautioned by members of our party
480 EUR <>r/:' IX STORM AXD CALM.
because be insisted on looking with a the Place de la Concorde. This was

large field-glass out of a window unpro- succeeded by a fusillade, much more
tected by shutters, learned a lesson terrible ami far stronger than any yet
which taught him much. lie had heard in our street. Now^ the rush
retreated to an arm-chair in the middle of bullets became quite terrifying. The
of the room, and there continued his thunder of shells, the blowing of bugles,
observations with his glass, when he and the cracking of chassepots were
suddenly arose, and went into the dining- steadily intensified until half-past four
room to get a glass of water. When he in the afternoon, when a. detachment of
returned he was shown two bullet-holes Versaillais suddenly appeared in the
through the back of the chair, and the corners of the streets leading from the
marks on the marble mantel-piece just Champs Klysees. As they saw the
behind. Had he not been thirsty at that Communist barricades they hesitated.
particular moment the two bullets would An officer was pricking them on with his
have perforated his breast. sword when a shot from the barricade
As darkness came on, both parties struck him in the knee. lie fell to the
fired at Hashes, and now and then sent sidewalk, still brandishing his sword.
shells over the houses. The concierge The men rushed past him, and poured a
came to supplicate us not to have can- sharp volley into the now demoralized
dles or gas lighted. We retired, for insurgents. They saw that they would
comparative safety, to the back rooms be taken in the rear if they remained a
of the lower floors, and supped as best moment longer, so they tied precipitately,
we could oft' bread, rice, and a little lightingas they went; and the tricolor
wine, which the landlord, who lived in was seen waving from all the houses
the house, offered us. American house- near us.
wives must be told that in the apart- The liners at once proceeded to ex-
ment system of the Parisian domiciles amine the knapsacks left behind by the
the pantry is an unknown institution, Communists, and it was a quaint sight
and a blockade of twenty-four hours t<> see them greedily, and yet suspi-
leaves the dwellers in Paris houses des- ciously, eating the bread found in them.
titute of Towards nine o'clock
food. In a few moments the house opposite us
the smoke cloud did rise a little, but all was tilled with soldiers, so we appeared
night the angry storm of lead raged at on the balcony and hung out an Ameri-
intervals, ami early dawn brought the can Hag. A dozen guns were pointed at
noise of a great attack in the Champs it, but an officer intervened, and expla-
Khsees, and the wild roar of one directly nations, which seemed for the moment
behind our house. The Versaillais were satisfactory, were made. Our newly-
now all around us. From time to time come Versaillais arranged the barricade
was deserted,
the barricade on (air front so as to turn their backs to us. About
the Nationals, as the Communists now fifty men were put behind it. and they
called themselves, rushing to assist in lay quietly on their arms waiting orders.
the network of defence in the various Pullets now struck the Madeleine's noble
streets, Godot de Malll'oi, Ferine des walls every moment, and little pieces
Mathurins, and lie Seze. On this were chipped from the columns.
Tuesday noon a tremendous cannon- A great conflagration burst out in
ading announced the decisive attack on the Hue Royale, and a dense column of
smoke near the Place de la Concorde in- saw six insurgents shot in the Rue Go-
clined us to believe that the public build- dot de Mauroi a momentwere after they
ings near at hand had been fired. The taken. Houses were searched, and any
insurgents were making a strong fight in man found with his hands slightly black-
the Rue de Rivoli, and their batteries on ened with powder was instantly shot.
the boulevards were playing directly on The soldiers backed him up against the
the houses which the Versaillais had wall, threw a couple of men into line;
occupied at the junction of our street two reports were heard, and the dead
with the boulevard. We could now vent- man's coat was stripped off and thrown
ure on to our balconies with compara- over his head. These men were left
tive safety, although the soldiers thought lying where they fell until Wednesday
it wise to shield themselves with mat- afternoon.
tresses. The spectacle around was be- The Malesherbes barricade, first at-
yond description. Almost every house tacked at ten o'clock on Monday morning,
save our own was vomiting fire and was taken at five on Tuesday afternoon.
smoke from twenty windows. Great It held out exactly thirty-one hours, during
streams of sparks and cinders were which time the insurgents in the central
flying over the Rue Royale shells were; part of the town managed to execute de-
descending there and in the Place de la fenses which otherwise they could never
Concorde batteries were rattling under
; have managed. Had Montmartre not
our windows on the sidewalks, and in been taken at such an early epoch in the
the middle of the street, ammunition- fight the Versaillais would have had
wagons on every side of us made the far greater losses before reaching the
alighting of shells in our vicinity doubly central boulevards.
This barricade was
dangerous. The iron hail-storm now defended by about two hundred men,
seemed to turn and continue, in a meas- most of whom were very brave. The
ure, up the boulevards, but presently majority of them were killed or taken
changed, and we could see that the Ver- prisoners before reaching the boulevards.
saillais had occupied the Place de la All the way down
the Boulevard Hauss-
Madeleine, and learned that the insur- mann met with the most deter-
soldiers
gents were slowly retreating down the mined resistance. "One man, whom we
arcades of the Rue de Rivoli. The sur- cornered," said an Eleventh-artillery-
render of the barricade Malesherbes, man me, "ran into a court-yard, and
to
which was the way to all the approaches we agreed to spare him if he gave up his
to the Madeleine, and to the whole net- gun; but he closed his hands so tightly
work of barricades between us and the about it that we had to pry his fingers
Grand Opera, had been an important off one by one. Then we shot him."
move for the invading regulars. An old man of sixty, as the same artil-
As soon as our barricade was carried lery-man was standing at the head of
the slaughter in the streets was dread- the Boulevard Haussmann, was shot in
ful. The soldiers, although quite sober sight uf his sou of fourteen, who threw
and very well disciplined, had probably himself on the body, and begged to be
been instructed to give but little quarter. killed also. "It was pitiful to see."
Whenever there was the slightest resist- said the rough Lyons boy, turning quite
ance when they arrived they shot the pale. " We have left fifty dead men
men as soon as made prisoners. We above here," he added; " but we shall
be revenged down below;" and he fered but little from the projectiles thrown
pointed to the Madeleine. from the great hill and early Tuesday
;
Although we went into tin- streets morning the divisions of General Lad-
tliat Tuesday evening we did not go mirault's troops, taking possession of
farther than the barricade, as the sus- all the from the Porte Maillot
gates
pieions of the Versailles troops were very to St. Oueu, had attacked Montmartre
strong, and they saw an escaping Com- in the rear, while the Duplessis division
munist in every civilian. We saw a went up from the Gare St. Lazare through
number of arrested persons taken to the the Rue d'Amsterdam. General Clin-
Kue Boissy d'Anglais, where they were chant then sent reinforcements to all
judged and immediately shot. We re- the exterior boulevards ; also to the Rue
mained in-doors that night, and at early Blanche. The barricades on the Boule-
dawn went out to find that the insurgents vard des Baliguolles, ami the streets
had been compelled to withdraw from all entering it, were carried without much
their positions in the neighborhood, and resistance; and at half-past nine the
from all the central boulevards below the Versaillais entered precipitately on the
Hue Drouot . also that they had Bred the Place Cliehy, which had been hastily
public buildings in their line of retreat abandoned by the Communists.

towards the Hotel de Ville. Paltering Montmartre then began firing directly
theKne Royale we found heaps of dead into Cliehy, and wrecked numerous
men, and saw many of the houses on the houses in the vicinity. Women and
right-hand side slowly burning. Fire- men fired from windows upon the regu-
men were inducing every passer-by to lars, and were at once taken out, placed
help, and we had to stand in line and against walls, and shot. The Mont-
pass buckets of water, in the primitive martre cannon were finally silenced at
Parisian fashion of extinguishing fires, ten o'clock. The regulars nattered
before we could establish our right to themselves that they had dismounted
pass on. The insurgents, we were told, the insurgent guns; but the truth was,
had applied petroleum to burn the quar- that there was no more ammunition on
ter when they found they could no longer the mountain. The Federals did not
hold it. Here, also, we heard the story expect, to be so quickly surrounded, and
that fifty insurgents had been bayoneted ammunition wagons blocked half-a-dozen
in the Madeleine; but this was untrue, out-of-the-way streets. Finding their
Several men were killed at the church, endeavors to scale the heights and bring
but none inside the sacred walls. fresh supplies to the batteries useless,
The formidable character of the works the drivers were shot from their horses,
at Montmartre and the immense nnm- Four new barricades were then thrown
ber of guns accumulated there by the up on the Place Cliehy. but only one
insurgents had made every one in the made a determined defense, and cost
central quarters of Paris anxious, as the the regular army a large number of
Communists had sworn to bombard that men. The liveliest resistance was made
section whenever the Versailles troops in the Place Blanche, when' a few Fed-
occupied it as far as the Grand Opera, erals held out for two hours against a
But General Clinchant's troops, who large force. One of the barricades was
had occupied the Pare Monceau during taken by stratagem on the part of the
the night and morning of the entry, suf- who entered houses directly
Versaillais,
above the insurgents, and from the and almost touching. The insurgent
windows shot down scores. On the General was at La Muette when the
Place Pigale numerous mitrailleuses news came that a great attack in that
sent destruction against the attacking vicinity had succeeded. An orderly
forces, but by noon the Federals were hastily brought him word that the Ver-
driven quite to the south flank of the saillais would probably soon surround
hill. Just as they were preparing for a the house in which he had his head-
new stand there the red breeches ap- quarters. He at once burned bis papers
peared <>n t Lie hill-top and wildly pro- and ran out of the building to the rail-
claimed victory. These men belonged way station of the Ceinture, and finally
to a division of the Ladmirault Corps, gained the Place Vendome. where, it
which had swept away the batteries near will be remembered, was the central
St. Ouen and took one hundred and five head-quarters. From that point he went
cannon on the road. Arriving at the to Batignolles,and on Tuesday was in
plateau on the hill-top, they found it the thick of the fight on Montmartre.
deserted. The mass of the Federals While riding along the Boulevard Or-
had escaped by the streets leading to- nano, accompanied by a large number
wards La Chapelle. The panic in the of his staff officers, about noon, he was
retreat was frightful. The streets were struck in the abdomen by a musket bul-
strewn for half a mile with knapsacks, let and fell to the ground. Four men
guns which the Communists had broken bore the dying General, who bit the cloth
in their fury, with cartridges, and even of the stretcher in his agony, to the
with uniforms, which many men in their Hospital Lariboisiere, where he died
fright had torn off and thrown away. shortly afterwards. His last words were,
Some cowards attempted to take refuge according to one version, "You see how
in a house, but found the doors closed one dies when he has been betrayed."
against them, and were shot down like Another account, and probably a more
dogs. The stampede was only rallied trustworthy one, given by the hospital
at La Chapelle, where barricades were aids, says that, shortly before death, he
hastily erected. The regulars occupied cried out :
" And those men accused me
;
all the houses, searched the rooms, and of betraying them " then he babbled
whenever they found a man apparently of his wife and
child, and so passed
fresh from the fight be was shot without away. His aides-de-camp carried off
mercy. The house of a blacksmith, in his body in a common wagon, after hav-
the Rue de Navariu, stood a severe siege, ing theatrically sworn before the death-
but finally all the defenders were taken bed that they would avenge him.
and killed. At live in the evening the Dombrowski's melancholy exclamation
fight was still in progress on the Boule- about treason was prompted by the
vard Rochechouarl ; but before night- rumor which bad at one time gained
fall all the Montmartre section was in ground in the Communist circles, that he
the power of the regular army. had been bribed by the regulars, and
The defense of this noted hill seems that if he had not been corrupt the troops
to have been confided to General Clu- could not have entered. There is no
seret, but he had not been heard of at foundation for this slander. Dom-
the close of the action. The story of lirowski, although misguided, was brave
General Dombrowski's death is simple and honest. He had perhaps thought
484 EUROPE J.V STORM AND CALM.
of making his way through some point of shape. Down at the great double bar-
the Prussian lines, and escaping when ricade, at the entrance to the Place de la
the battle in Paris became hopeless; but Concorde, great crowds were collected,
this does uol seem clearly proved. There peering over at the vestiges of the tight.
was a story that he with his "seven In the Place, the caryatides supporting
hundred horsemen" had intended to the fountain basins were scarred with
gallop to Belgium, cutting their way bullets, and the great statue of Lille had
through any small villages which might fallen from its pedestal. The beautiful
offer resistance. But any one who had equestrian statues at the entrance of the
seen his seven hundred horsemen would Champs Elysees had miraculously es-
know that was absurd.
this Dum- caped. Undoubtedly the barricades at
browski's staff was mounted on omnibus the corner of the Rue Royale and the
horses, old roadsters who had already Place de la Concorde had been but poorly
done their best service, and presented defended. A soldier of the line ran close
a most ridiculous appearance. In the by one of them on Tuesday afternoon,
whole of the Commune army there were and tore down the two red tlags flutter-
not threescore men who knew how lo ing above it before the astonished
ride. insurgents could fire a shot. As he re-
Early Wednesday morning, just as he I turned, a discharge of musketry burst

first glimpses of dawn were visible, the from the barricade, and the courageous
firing in and around the Hue Royale and liner fell flat. A shout arose. " He is
on the boulevards died quite away. The dead ! lie is dead !

" cried the insurgents.
far-off cannon shots convinced us that He had only fallen to escape the shots,
the insurgents had retired towards the and scampered back to his own liues
Louvre, and were fighting their way to unharmed.
the Bastille. We hail returned to sleep at It having been long before determined
the house in the Boulevard Malesherbes ;

among the insurgents that, if they could
and at dawn, on Wednesday morning, not obtain the municipal franchise of
we were once more in the Rue Royale. Paris, they should make a systematized
One side of this fine street was now attempt to burn all the public monuments
almost entirely burnt away, and the re- and palaces, as well as the ministries
maining walls tottered and gave forth a and principal houses, it is not surprising
peculiar odor, as if dead bodies were that the Rue Royale was so readily fired.
burning within. Many of the unfortu- During the days of Monday and Tues-
nate inhabitants were doubtless roasted day, in various houses in the Boulevard
alive in their cellars. Near the junction Malesherbes, in the Rue de Rivoli, and
of the boulevard with the Rue Royale Rue de la Paix even, little square boxes
lay the body of an old man. a Com- were placed behind the doors, or in other
munist, with a horrible wound in the obscure corners in the court-yards. These
head. Some passers-by had removed the hexes, when examined, were found to
covering from his face, and the open contain petroleum, so arranged that it
eyes were quite frightful to look upon. could be fired at a moment's notice. A
Farther on was the corpse of a liner, gentleman whose word I cannot doubt,
young and handsome. one of the editors of Le Temps, told me
At an angle of the Rue Royale was that the insurgents used every pretext
still another victim, beaten half out of lo conceal from the inhabitants the fact
that they were firing the houses. Had tions are so unusual at Paris that most
not the regular troops been very near at citizens are frightened even at an or-
hand, when his house was invaded by dinary one. This gigantic series of fires,
the Communists, he was certain the this wholesale destruction of property

latter would have succeeded in destroy- by the vindictive Communists, actually
ing it. Men who belonged to what was turned the heads of many people. The
organized as the incendiary battalion excess of sudden insanity, consequent
disguised themselves as firemen, and fed on the horrors of the seven days' fight,
the flames instead of helping to ex- was so numerous as to excite universal

tinguish them. This sounds almost in- among medical men.
attention
credible, but there is very good evidence Wednesday night will always be re-
of its truth. Men came from all quarters membered by those who witnessed its hor-
carrying bottles of petroleum and in- rors as the " night of fires." Returning
flammable matches and
in their pockets, that evening to our old quarters on the
one's life was not worth a rush anywhere Boulevard Malesherbes we remarked
iu the street, as it needed only the de- among the inhabitants along the route a
nunciation of the first bourgeois to have feverish agitation. Every one suspected
any person shot down by the infuriated every one else of attempting to fire the
soldiery. As we turned to leave the house which he lived, and the con-
in
Rue Ro3 -
ale we saw a regiment of liners cierges were busy on the roofs with hose
passing on to the fight at the Louvre, watering the walls, or below arranging
on the double-quick. The officers were wet mortar against the cellar windows,
swearing at and striking the wounded or placing barrels of water and heaps of
men, who, overloaded and stained with sand in the court-yards. As we passed
blood and covered with dust, had little through the Rue Scribe we saw groups
elasticity in their steps. of soldiers marching men and women
Great were streaming up
jets of fire who were to be shot, a gun, it was said,
in the direction of the Rue St. Honor6, having been fired from the house in
and beyond the Tuileries, and the burn- which they had been taken. It was after
ing Ministry of Finances sent up flames. dark when we arrived at the scene of the
Now and then, from the latter building, lateMalesherbes fight. The streets were
a shower of sparks and half-burnt papers crowded with soldiery, and hardly half
came drifting above us, and the air was an hour passed without the rattle of
hot and sulphurous. People's faces were musketry, indicating an execution at the
blanched with a new fear, for conflagra- military post iu the Rue Boissy d' Anglais.
486 EL'ROrE IS STORM AXD CALM.
CHAPTER FIFTY-TWO.
i \ _ ofF .- r Petroleuses. — The 1 W Pa kin F
FROM the upper windows of our the enraged and affrighted throngs, had
so unsettled our nerves that the sudden
bouse we could see tbe great fires
in the Rue St. Honors and ihe Rue de appearance of eight gendarmes in the
Rivoli, where shops unci houses were garret, whence we were viewing the
constantly fired by the daring incendiary scene, almost unmanned us. In harsh
brigade. Shells from tlie Buttes Chau- tones they demanded why two of our
mout, where the retreated Communists company had mounted to the roof, and
had now erected their barricades, came hade them come down at once. They
regularly, six every five minutes (we doc tided precipitately, and we explained
counted them repeatedly), to add their ourselves. The gendarmes having as-
tenuis to the rapidly increasing flumes. sured themselves of our nationality, re-
1 e burning Tuileries "still sent up tl tired, grumbling, and we refrained from
lights, fantastic as a aurora borealis, on further adventures in pursuit of knowl-
the horizon, and the distant clamor of edge. Xothing was left but to crawl to
fusillade came borne on the wicked wind the trout windows and watch the reflec-
which seemed to delight in spreading tion of the flames on the sullen sky. and
the flames. Officers passed beneath our to hear the rumbling of the distant
windows, constantly enjoining the inhabi- battle. All uightwe lay wakeful, listen-
tants to watch their houses with the ing to the cries of fright Or of stern
greatest vigilance; we were not allowed command. Towards one o'clock, a cry
to have auv lights, and had little inclina- arose, a cry of fear and anguish of a
tion to run the risk of a domiciliary visit, woman in her last agony. It fairly
which might have resulted in our forced chilled our blood. We could not refrain
departure for the military post, where to from running to the windows and listen-
be suspected was to be executed. ing. It was a woman taken in the act
About nine o'clock we were called to of firing the street, and we heard her led
the garret to witness an immense new away, protesting with hitter screams.
burst of flame, which we were told was ••You can explain to the commandant,"
ette on fire, the troops having said a voice. The woman was hurried
lo>t no time in firing it. after having to Hue Pasquier. Presently there
the
summoned the insurgents from the bar- was a -hot then all was still for a few
;
ricades to surrender. The Hotel de moments.

Yille. which was now burning, added the The citizens who had not sympathized
vast glow of it- conflagration to the with the insurrection began to appear
tacle. The accumulation i<i horror's on the streets on Wednesday. Pale
for the past few days, the promenades faces peeped out here and there : shop-
among dead and dying, the
the heaps of keepers t iok down from their dusty
danger incurred bv merely walking in shutters the proclamations which the
Commune hail pasted upon them; the The kindling of the fires seems to have
tricolor was exhibited from every window given the property-holders a terrible
within the line of the regular troops; thirst for blood. any one ventured to
If
squads of cavalry patrolled the streets, say, " That man ought not to he shot:
and the " men of order," who had care- he looks like a weak, misguided creat-
fully hidden themselves since their dis- ure," the unhappy man who thus pleaded
comfiture in the Rue de la Paix, on the for clemency would be howled at and
day of their manifestation, were out in full threatened with arrest if he said any-
force, and beat La Ge'nerale furiously. thing further. Faces in these days
All of the government people wore tri- shone with a sort of lurid light. The
color badges on their left arms. Guns little petty grocer and the great mer-
were slacked on the pavements, and the chant of lace, the shopkeeper and the
shopkeepers and rentiers of the Rue de banker, seemed to think their express
la Paix, instead of the marble-workers duty was now to hoot, kick, strike, and,
and masons of Belleville, now commanded if necessary, kill defenseless prisoners.
us to passer au large. It was curious Old women, venerable at least by their
to notice the thirst for blood which gray hairs, were called degrading names
these fine fellows, who might have as the soldiers pushed them onto prison,
stopped the insurrection at its outset, which few left alive. In dozens of cases
but who had refrained from just the these women were simply looking after
effort necessary to check it. now mani- their husbands or sons, yet they were
fested when the regulars had done the work. arrested <>n suspicion of endeavoring to
The Place Venddme was occupied by tire the quarters. Many of the women
the regulars on Wednesday morning. were found with their aprons filled with
The inhabitants of the quarter screamed explosive matches, and the pe"troleuse was
with delight as every new prisoner was a veritable personage, although her ex-
brought in. Men came with their arms ploits were grossly exaggerated. Dead
pinioned behind their backs, and, as men were allowed to rot uncared for, and
they entered the square, and passed vulgar passers-by pulled the coverlets
out of sight of the ferocious, gaping from their faces and made unfeeling
crowd, would be heard,
a detonation remarks. Our hearts seemed to revolt.
and would be over.
all The same Sometimes we could not believe our
soldiers who had done the execution senses, and went about trembling with
took their way back to their post of duty horror. A man coming out of a house
amid the acclamations of the people. at the corner of the Rue Pasquier, on
The officers on the court-martials had an Wednesday afternoon, was denounced
inductive method of getting at the truth. as a Communist. He was clean, well-
They were mild in their speech, and dressed, and tranquil. Ten or twelve artil-
would say, "Come, now, friend, you lery officers drew their swords and were
might as well confess." The man, tempted about to cut him down, when it was
by the kindly voice, would own up, after decided to take him to the post in the
many equivocations, that he had done opposite street. The crowd grumbled at
little or nothing. "Yes, but you did this, and one old man was so angry be-
take part in the insurrection?" and cause the soldiers did not shoot the sup-
when he answered " Yes," his doom was posed culprit that he tried himself to
at once pronounced. kill him with his stout oaken stick.
Around the church of La Trinite the extremely dangerous. Strangers were

fightwas especially murderous. Great treated like Parisians. The National
havoc was made among the beautiful Guards of Order were fretting and fum-
statues and fountains in the church ing, as if anxious for a pretext to kill
square. The trees were almost hate and something, and it was unsafe to reason
lealless. the fires stripping everything. with them. One man assured me that
Our Mr. Alcott, saw from
vice-consul, five thousand insurgents had been shot
his windows much of the combat, and since the troops entered. 1 mildly ex-
describes it as appalling. A priest was pressed doubts. He called out at once,
saved by the regulars from the hands of and tried to collect acrowd about me,
the insurgents, and the poor old man but I left him post-haste. Towards
was so overjoyed that he kissed the evening the shells fell very rapidly in
whole battalion. the Place de l'Opera, and a woman who
The barricade on the Place de POpera was going to the Place Yendonie, as a
was composed of barrels, water-carts, prisoner, was struck down by a shell from
and heaps of earth and paving-stones. the Buttes Chaumont battery. Wounded
It was so arranged as to command the horses added their screams to the cries
Boulevard des Capucines, the liars of the wounded men. The front of the
Auber and Halevy. This, as well as building in which the Washington Club
the barricade which closed communica- was located was half torn away. In the
tion between the Chaussee d'Antin and glare of the flames from the Ministry of
the boulevard, was valiantly defended Finances, as night came on, one could see
by the One Hundred and Seventeenth men and women, tied together, and bleed-
Communist battalion. Its guns in sonic ing from numerous wounds, marched
measure protected all the network of along, urged forward by kicks and blows
barricades between the grand boulevards from musket-butts into the Place Yen-
and the key barrier on the Boulevard donie, where they were immediately shot.
Malesherbes, and hindered the progress A number of French and American
of the regular troops about twenty-four persons told me the following incident,
hours. The tight at this Opera barri- which I defy any one to read without a
cade was very severe, and two officers certain emotion. On Thursday a very
of the Communist battalion, not wishing beautiful young girl, taken in the act of
to leave guns in the hands of the
their scattering inflammable matches against
regulars,drew them off themselves, one the houses, was marched down the Rue
by one, amid a shower of bullets. All de la Paix to the Place Yendome to
the Federals were finally forced to retire, execution. She seemed quite innocent,
and then the inhabitants came out ami and answered quite quietly when asked
welcomed in the regulars, who descended what she was doing, and what she had in
by the line du Ilclder. One liner her apron, " (July some kindlings to light
mounted to the top of the magnificent my lire with." Her beauty, her elastic
edifice of the Opera, tore down the red and courageous step, as she marched to
flag, and, brandishing the tricolor, placed execution, did not enlist the women in
it finally in the hand of the god Apollo, her favor. The women were much more
who holds up to the sunlight a golden terrible in their wrath than the men but, ;
lyre. as she tinned and faced the crowd with

Promenading the streets now became flashing eye, and as her long, black hair
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 4,s«)
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kept waving in the breeze, many a strong immoderate in. their condemnation. Had
man shed tears. An implacable war of the regular troops acted with more
the | r against the rich, carried now promptness, after their arrival, a great
tn tin' extremity of despair, made the number of the principal buildings on tin;
fining girl march as proudly to the place leftbank of the Seine might have been
of execution as if her cause had been saved from the flames. But the hesita-
won, and Paris were free. tion of the regular troops is not to he
The military school on the Champ de wondered at. The spectacle which con-
Mais was a favorite place for execu- fronted them was enough to appall the
tions. Few prisoners who went, in there stoutest hearts. The great clouds of
came out alive. As fast as the men and smoke from the smouldering Hotel de
women entered the doomed precinct, the Aide and the Tuileries made a sombre
tramp of a tiring platoon and the dis- background to a melancholy picture. At
charge of a number of muskets could all the street coiners dead insurgents lay
be heard. The bodies were heaped up sometimes piled in
thickly, little heaps.
so that new-comers had to climb over Asking the explanation of this, I was
them in order to stand at the fatal wall. told that these were men who had escaped
The dead were dragged afterwards to the into the houses, and when found were
Champ de Mars into trenches. The taken into the street and immediately
millions of visitors to the great Exhibi- executed. No questions even were asked
tion of 1878 little thought, as they them when they were found with weapons
walked on the beautiful green grass of in their hands or with powder stains on
the gardens of the Champ de Mars, of their fingers. The bullet sang its shrill
slaughtered Communists buried below. song, and they fell dead.
Probably some one who had read Walt It is worthy of remark that in the quar-
Whitman's eccentric verses might have ter of Paris extending from the Hotel
thought, above the unrecognizable graves, deVille to the Bastille, no hostility to the
of those strange lines: — Communists was expressed by non-com-
batants ; elsewhere the complete ferocity
11
Tenderly will I use you, curling grass. of the citizens quite surpassed anything
It amy be you transpire from the breasts of manifested by the soldiers. In the Rue
young Mien ; du Temple and in the Rue Vieux du
It may be if I had known them I would have Temple, dead men of both the Com-
loved them ;
munal and regular armies were lying
It may be yon ure from old people and from
about as plentiful as broken boughs in a
women, and from offspring taken too soon
from their mothers' hips. forest through which a great wind had
They are alive and well somewhere. passed.
The smallest sprout shows there is really no On this Wednesday evening a friend
death."
who walked through the Rue de Rivoli
announced that he saw women washing
The history of the burning of Paris off the sidewalk in places where the
has been told, both by the Communists, bl 1 had collected in little stagnant
who find, in hundred
their adroit fashion, a | Is. They sopped up the blood with
apologies for their and by the
action, wet lags, and, wringing it out into pails,
moderate Republicans, some of whom, carried it away into the houses. Possibly
like M. Maxime Ducamp, are a trifle some enterprising speculator proposed
to sell or to exhibit the blood of the out at the risk of their lives by five em-
victims of the May revolution. ployes. As there are a large number of
Around the Palais Royal, and espe- volumes of this precious book, and these
cially in front of the Comedie Francaise, were stored in an upper room, a chain of
the scene was heart-rending. Soldiers soldiers was placed on ladders, and the
were digging trenches in the middle of lonies containing the whole statement of
the street, and throwing in the dead in- the city's indebtedness were passed from
surgents. In front of the barricade in hand to hand, until they reached the
the Rue Montpensier as many as twenty ground. At last the fire became so hot
were buried. Amateur grave-diggers, that the proceedings were cut short, and
boys and men, tumbled back the dirt a large number of the books were thrown
and stamped it down without a trace of helter-skelter into the street, whence
emotion on their faces. Nearly at the they were picked up by the inhabitants
same time some soldiers were skinning of the quarter and packed in carriages.
a horse slain by a shell, and were distribu- On Faubourg St. Honore, one of
tin'
ting the meat to poor people who begged of the most crowded of Parisian thorough-
for it. Many members of the working- fares, the destruction was very great.
class suffered the pangs of hunger for Immense warehouses, establishments de-
several days during the fight, as the food voted to articles of luxury and taste,
in certain quarters was entirely carried flew skywards in clouds of smoke and jets
off to serve the soldiers who were of flame. At the entrance of the street
making their way into the heart of the nearest the Rue de Rivoli the slaughter
insurrection. was tremendous. Piled at the Rivoli
The Ministry of Finance, the noble end of the Rue du Luxembourg, on
colonnades of which occupied an im- Wednesday morning, were one hundred
mense front on the Rue de Rivoli, was and twenty-five dead bodies, brought
Bred inside on Tuesday night by a there from various points. Curious
delegation appointed expressly for the throngs were constantly gathered at this
purpose. The archives in the fifth place, and many arrests were made
story served as kindling, and in a few among the spectators for expressing their
hours the whole street line was in a blaze. opinions too strongly. Near the corner
Hut when the insurgents had evacuated of Faubourg St. Houore and flic
the
the building, and had been compelled to Rue Royale a wine-merchant was con-
fall back from the Place de la Concorde, fined in his cellar, with his wife and little
a wine-merchant on the corner attempted girl, driven thither by the intense heat
to organize a service to save what re- of the houses burning around about
mained of the edifice. He was shot at, them. The fusillade from the barricades
and petroleum shells were thrown to in- in the Rue St. Honor<5 and from the
crease the flames. Towards midnight a Madeleine was so severe that he hardly
strong, wild wind came up, fanning the dared venture through what was at best
flames and discouraging hopes of saving crumbling and red-hot ruins, to save his
anything. A few hours later an at- wife and child in the open air. At last
tempt was made by a few determined he decided, urged by the screams of the
men to save the most important papers child, who was almost literally roasted,
concerning the finances of Paris, and and, clasping her in his arms, he rushed
the great ledger of the city was brought out through the falling walls and under
a storm of bullets, to a passage held by of the heroes of the Communal party,

a smalldetachment of government escorted by a quintette of women, went
troops. As he clamored at the gate for from palace to palace sowing destruction
entrance, three men pointed their guns upon their track. The houses of rich
at him. " Kill me," hecried, " but save refugees were invaded ; servants who
my child !
" The corporal, comprehending undertook to save the pictures, the rich
the situation, rushed forward and took furniture,and the silver plate of their
the child in his arms ; and the wine- masters, were shot down. The •• gene-
merchant, returning into the ruins, suc- rals" and '•colonels," excited with
ceeded in rescuing his wife also. A few drink, and half mad with the sense of
minutes afterwards the house fell in, and coming danger, issued most extravagant
the cellar in which those people had been decrees. It is even said that Megy
roasting was filled with live coals. signed his decrees with the number
The damage in one house in the Rue which had been stamped upon his prison
Royale was estimated at 700,000 francs. uniform, as if thus casting defiance in
The general staff of the insurgents had a the face of the society which had con-
grand banquet at a restaurant in this demned him temporarily to lose his
street on the night of the entry of the citizenship, and to lie reduced to the level
regular troops, and they drank confusion of a mere numeral. Lone- wagon-trains,
to M. Thiers no less than three hundred
in filled with barrels of petroleum, were
bottles of champagne. In one of the ranged in regular order in the court-yards
houses on the corner of the Rue Royale of the buildings marked for burning;
and the Faubourg, those who had hidden and, as the Communists retreated slowly
in the cellars on the Monday when the up the left bank of the Seine, flyingfrom
fight began, to avoid service in the in- barricade to barricade before the ap-
surgents' ranks, were all suffocated. proaching vengeance of the bourgeoisie,
The owner of one of the huge shops they applied the torch with as much
burned on the line Royale was found earnestness and joy as if they had been
raving in the street on the ruins of his sacking an enemy's citadel. The beauti-
fortune. His loss had quite turned his ful pictures of Flandrin and Eugene De-
brain. It was said that one of the lacroix were deluged with mineral oil.
fashionable clubs in this street only es- Barrels of this oil were poured down
caped burning through the sagacity of staircases and through corridors, and
some servants, who gave the soldier hundreds of thousands of manuscripts
charged with the firing so much wine that belonging to the archives, audited ac-
he quite forgot his duty. counts, memoirs of important financial
There is no doubt that the Communists transactions, were trampled into the oozy
intended to make a complete wreck of mass into which the Communists, in
the Faubourg St. Germain. Maxime Du- their drunken fury, tired their revolvers
camp has left on record a very concise and and threw live coals and matches. M.
careful narrative of the ruin of the Palace Jules Yalles. who. after taking a promi-
of the Legion of Honor, the Council of nent part in the Commune, escaped,
State, the (our des Comptes and it is ; published, shortly before the entry of
startling to what coolness
note with the regular troops, in his journal, called
General Eudes and Megy, the ferocious, theu Cri du Peuple" the following state-
half-educated workman who became oue ment '-All measures have been taken
:
to prevent the entry into Paris of an}' to find Paris a kind of second Rome,
inimical soldier. The ramparts may be with ruins on every hand. In fact, the
battered down, but no soldiers will get Cour des Comptes is almost the only
into Paris. If M. Thiers is a chemist remnaut of the Communist fury left as
he will quite comprehend us. Let the it was in that dreadful week. It is
army of Versailles recollect that Paris is presently to be converted into a museum

decided to undertake everything rather of industrial art. During the Commune
than surrender." The employment of it was occupied by the delegate of the
CHILDREN OF THE COMMUNIST PRISONERS EATING SOUP WITH THE VERSAILLES SOLDIERS.
dynamite had been suggested to the Com- Council of State, who, only a few days
mune but; that powerful political agent before the entry of the regular troops,
had not yet attained the celebrity which was sent to Marseilles on a revolution-
it now possesses, and the incendiaries ary mission, where he was arrested by
and anarchists of the epoch were obliged agents from Versailles. It was thought
to resort to petroleum and to the torch. by the regulars that the Council of State
It was Tuesday evening when the palace was burned by the fifty-seventh,
palace of the Council of State and the sixty-seventh, and one hundred and
Cour des Comptes was fired. The thirty-fifth battalions of insurgents, who
Cour des Comptes lias long been a had occupied it; and therefore wher-
place of pilgrimage for the trans-Atlan- ever these gently were found during the
tic tourists who go abroad expecting fight they received no quarter.
4H4 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
A woman who went by the name of to have their names handed down in
Madame Eudes, the female companion history as prime movers in these

of tin' Communist general, gave numer- final tragedies. Whole houses were
ous festivals at the Legion of Honor destroyed, gulleys ran up and down
palace, which was her comrade's head- across the street, and dead bodies lay
quarters, during the brief reign of the in the doorways and at corners, de-
insurrection,and some of these festivals caying in the hot sun. Hereabouts, the
are said to have been orgies quite be- ordinary method of tiring houses was
yond the power cit' description. Madame by pouring petroleum from the windows
Eudes was wont to descend into the oil the sidewalks, and then hurling down
court-yard to shake hands with all the burning masses of rags or matches
soldiers on guard, taking pains to an- into the cellars. The Luxembourg
nounce that they might converse with palace owed its safety to the prelimi-
her freely, and might never salute. " I nary explosion of the powder-magazine,
am a, daughter of the people," she said. established thereby. This frightened
The Puis journals related that she and away a number of men who were
large
otherwomen connected with the Com- sent to lire the ancient home of the
mune had pillaged the wardrobe of the Medicis. The noble and beautiful Sainte
beautiful and fashionable Marquise do Chapelle, where old Boileau lies en-
Galliffet, and that they used to appear tombed, miraculously escaped wreck in
in her dresses ; but this is probablj the midst of the ruin of the Palais de
untrue. Justice. The noted prison of the Con-
Around the palace above mentioned, ciergerie, so famous in the old Revolu-
the line was horribly devas-
de Lille tion, was badly damaged, but, the regu-
tated by shot, and tire. In the
shell, lars came too quickly into this neigh-
Faubourg .St. Germain one of the noted borhood to allow the complete ac-
clubs was nearly wrecked by the Yer- complishment of the Communists' evil
saillais batteries, playing from Tro- designs.
cadcro. One very singular illustration On this fatal day, the 24th of May,
of the damage that can be caused by a at the close of which the good Arch-
single bullet occurred in a mansion next bishop and his comrades in misfortune
the Agricultural club. A bullet pierced were destined lo be murdered, the
a reservoir in the fifth story which con- official journal of the Commune pub-
tained ten thousand litres of water. The lished an extract from another radical
upper story of the bouse was inun- journal, warning the insurrectionists
dated, ami thousands of francs' worth againt any violence to the priesthood,
of furniture injured before the owners saying that its only result would be fifty
below knew of the small deluge. The years more of clericalism. But tin.' men
conflagration in the Rue du Lac, on the who might have listened to reason, had
hit bank of the Seine, was one of the the regular troops still been without the
most disastrous caused by the despair fortifications, thought, now thai disaster
and malice of the insurgents. It is said and probable death were at their gates,
that General Eudes and Megy them- of nothing but revenge. M. Thiers
selves fired the first houses in this came into Paris on this Wednesday, and
quarter, wishing to inaugurate this great remained an hour, ami it is even said
anil formidable attack on property, and that he or Marshal MacMahou, who had
EUROPE I.\ STORM AND CALM. 49f)
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496 EUROrE l.\ STORM AM> CALM.
been in Paris since the previous Sunday, principal prisoners were stationed. A
ought to have taken more vigorous raeas- short time after this an officer advanced
urrs to have rescued the Archbishop to the Archbishop's cell, and in a low
from the imminent peril in which he was voice called him by name,
placed. When the news of the execu- " The prelate answered, '
Present.'
tion of the hostages was announced in " The officer then passed to the cell of
the fashionable quarters along the the President Bonjean : next called the
grand boulevards, and in the Hue de la Abbe Allard, member of the Interna-
Paix, the excitement was very great, tioual Society for Aiding the Wounded a ;
Men went aboul the street cursing the number of other priests the Abbd De-;
insurrection in loud and bitter tones, guerry, curb of the Madeleine. Xo

and whenever a prisoner was brought in sooner had each prisoner answered to his
on his way to the Place Vcndome, they name than lie was led through the gallery
would rush out and strike him with their and down the staircase, and conducted to
canes. Mr. Washburne, our American the Surveillance, on the other side, where
minister, took constant and careful insurgent guards insulted the prisoners
measures in the Archbishop's behalf and called them names which I cannot
during the whole of this terrible week, repeat.
until the fatal Wednesday night. lie ••They were then taken into the COlirt-
himself has given a most interesting ac- yard near the infirmary. The Arch-
count of his visits to tin' distinguished bishop advanced towards the platoon of
prelate, and of the fortitude and sweet- execution, which he clearly saw at a
ness of temper displayed by him in such little distance from him. and, speaking
circumstances of deadly peril. A little very quietly, addressed a few words of
energy, which had been lacking in France pardon. Two men at once ran up to
since the creation of the Second Empire, him. and before their comrades, kneeled,
might have saved the worthy Archbishop imploring his blessing. The other in-
froni the horrors of a brutal death. The surgents then fell upon them and pushed
most remarkable version of the execu- them back, insulting them. The cona-
tion of theArchbishop and his compan- mandant in the yard swore a frightful
ions was given on the authority of a Mr. oath. Men.' he said, 'you are here to
'
Girard, who succeeded in escaping from shoot these people, and not to listen to
the prison where the prelate had been and howl with them The insurgents!
'
confined. He said, " Monsigneur 1 >arboy then obeyed the orders to load their guns.
occupied number twenty-one of the
cell " The Abbe' Allard was placed against
fourth division (this was at the cele- the wall first and fell dead. Monseign-
brated prison of Mazas), while I was cur Darboy then calmly took his place.
confined in number twenty-six. The and fell, almost without a groan. The
Archbishop had been allowed a table si\ prisoners were thus shot, only the
—
and a chair. furniture of which the other Abbd Deguerrv showing a moment's
cells were destitute. On the 24th of feebleness, which must be attributed to
May, at half -past seven in the evening, the state of his health.
the director of the prison, a certain Le- •The bodies were at once conveyed in
francais, who had been six years a gal- a railway van to the cemetery of Pere
ley slave, came into the prison with fifty La Chaise, where they were placed in
men, and occupied the gallery where the what is called the ' common ditch ;
'
and
the mangled corpses were left uncovered. and lie went out, shutting the door after
The platoon of execution was taken him. A shot was heard, and the next
from the One Hundred and Eighty-first brother who went out saw, as he felt the
and Two Hundred and Sixth Battalions fatal bullet, the venerable prior bathed
of the National Guards, which accounts in blood. The brother who escaped
for the ferocity shown by the liners only succeeded by simulating death, a
against the men of these battalions when bullet having grazed him, and he laid
lain- on they were brought in as pris- quietly among the slain until the execu-
oners." tionershad gone away, when he ran

Not less brutal and infinitely more into a side street, where a charitable
affecting is the recital of the massacre woman concealed him until the arrival
of the Dominican brothers at tin- prison of the Versailles troops.
in the Avenue d'ltalie. The story is On the Tuesday after the entry of the
toldby the only one of the brethren regulars, two hundred other host-
the
who escaped. These twelve apostles ages confined in Mazas prison were
of patient, unrequited labor — men taken to La Roquette, known as the
of excellent intelligence and education prison of the condemned. On the fol-
— had been arrested at a school in lowing day seventy-four were shot, and
Paris. The nuns employed as teachers out of two hundred and four gendarmes
in this school were sent to the prison for confined in other prisons, one hundred
common women, and the brethren to the and sixty-nine had been designated for
fort of Bieetre, where they were lodged execution. On Thursday the Versailles
in the casemate. They were then troops arrived just in time to save them.
brought into Paris and while being taken
; It will be seen from this that it is not
through the Gobelins quarter they were too much to say that the Commune, at
several times threatened witli death by its close, was on the verge of inaugurat-
the populace, but were finally broughl to ing a reign of terror.
the above-mentioned prison. About It is but justice to add that all the
two o'clock on Thursday, as they were high military officers of the Commune —
praying together, an officer entered and all who merited the name of officer —
said grossly, "Surplices, forward! you considered the arrest of the priests as
are to be conducted to the barricades." an outrage, and understood how com-
They followed mutely, and found at the pletely the damning violence used
barricade such an intense fire that the against these good men would react
inhabitants abandoned it, taking back upon the insurrection. General Clu-
their victims witii them. About an serethad especially incurred the Com-
hour afterwards they were again sum- munists' displeasure because of his
moned to the street, and here an officer intervention in the cause of the Arch-
of the One Hundred and First Battalion bishop. was frequently said during
It
ordered his men to load their muskets, the that the Communists
insurrection
and then came the cry: '•Enter the intended to take and hold the corre-
street one by one " ! spondents of foreign journals resident in
They knew this was their death-war- Paris ns hostages, and M. Miot, a pict-
rant, and therefore took adieu of each uresque figure in the Communal as-
other. "Come, brethren," said the sembly, once actually proposed this
" come to the good God "
father prior, I measure. Whether the Communists
imagined that by this they could control journalist was shot on the evening of
opinion may now never lie known. The the 24th of May, Raoul Rigault stand-
murder of Gustave Chaudey, one of the ing by the executing platoon vvitl i ;•„
editors of the " Si£cle," who had been drawn sword, and cursing the men be-
held as a hostage, seems to have been cause they did not do their work more
actuated by a desire for vengeance on rapidly.
the part of Raoul Rigault, the celebrated The military operations of the govern-
Communist chief of police. Chaudey ment in Paris lasted exactly seven days,
was confined at St. Pelagie, the old [ni- hour for hour. The entry of the firsl
peiial prison for journalists and political troops was effected on the afternoon ot
offenders, and his friend, Cernuschi, the Sunday. May -'1st , at four o'clock. On
noted Italian, who has adopted Paris as that eventful day they were traversing
his home, came very near to violent the bridge at the Point du Jour, and at
death himself at the hands of the en- four o'clock on Sunday, May the 28th, the
raged soldiery when he went to intercede last insurgent barricade at Belleville was
for Chaudev's life. The unfortunate taken.
CHAPTER FIFTY-THREE.
The New Pight of the Bastille. — The Hotel ile Ville. — The Picturesque and Dramatic Episodes of the
Ureal Battles.
rpHE red flag fluttered at the top of held, refused to retreat, although en-
J- thecolumn in the Place de la Bas- treated by hundreds of families, who
tille until late Saturday afternoon. Mer- saw almost imminent death before them.
cury, who seemed springing lightly from Suspicion began, however, to do its terri-
his elevated perch, up and away from ble work among the Bellevillians, ami
bloodshed and burning, held the ban- the officers found every morning that
ner, which could be distinctly seen sonic man had been shot by his com-
from many poiuts in the centre of the rades for having ostensibly aided the
city, while the fight was still raging enemy. On Thursday, an artilleryman
around the site of the < > 1 < I Bastille. came to a battery at a little distance
Once driven from the barricades around from his own, and pointed a gun or two.
the Hotel de Ville, the insurgents made lie was immediately arrested and shot,
up their mind to a desperate stand in the men who did the deed insisting that
the quarters of the city where the in- he was a Versaillais in disguise. < In
surrection was horn. No one attempted this same day, an expedition

also, quite
to revive the historic ferocity of the was organized with the hope of retaking
Faubourg Saint Antoine not even the ; Montmartre, but the men finally refused,
feeblest resistance was made there. considering it certain death, and that
Belleville, the Buttes Chaumont and the their principalduty was to " defend their
cemetery of Pere La Chaise were selected hearthstones." On Friday there was a
as the localities in which to make the grand procession of priests going to
lasteffort. Thepeopleof La Villette had execution through Belleville — a species
been driven nearly to desperation during of parody of the great triumphal rides
the third and foui Ji days of the fight, to the guillotine There were
of '93.
by the return upon them of the beaten twelve priests and a few gendarmes, say
insurgents from Montmartre and its the eye-witnesses, and the unfortunate
environs, and the determined efforts of hostages were shot in the Luc Haxo,
the troops to dislodge them. Many with quite a crowd looking on. Friday
houses at La Villette were burned, and night the terror which had electrified the
dozens of innocent people lost their aristocratic quarters on Tuesday and
lives by shot and shell coming from Hie Wednesday had spread Belleville, t < >
batteriesand barricades of both com- and the Grand Locks, or Custom House
batants. OnWednesday the shells from of Paris, was in flames. The fire spread
Montmartre did terrible execution at rapidly to the borders of the grand canal,
Belleville; but Communists, feeling
the on which the dock-, arc situated, and
Strong in the knowledge that the bar- whole magazines, filled with oil and other
ricades of tin' Chateau-d' Eau were stiil combustibles, went up in slice! s of \ el low
r
. >00 EUROPE /.V STORM AND CALM.
flame. Toward midnight, large detach- bullets) in such profusion that I con-
mcnts of Communists arrived <>n the sidered ii prudent to retire. The barri-
seene of the conflagration. Few such cade built across the boulevards at the
miserable and heart-rending processions Porte St. was one of
Martin Theatre
have ever been seen on the pavements of the strongest erected, but on Wedues-
Paris. [laggard, worn, frightened at day night, when the cannonade had
few hours distant, dirty,
the death only a weakened the defenses, the Communist
hungry, and many of them drunk, the leaders gave orders for the burning of
officers found it difficult to rally the men the quarter, and the celebrated theatre
to retreat. "Let ns lie down and die." of the Porte St. Martin, and many other
said they and many preferred to remain
; noted mansions near it, were burned
and " see the people's vengeance exe- to the ground. The light continued
cuted," meaning the tires. through the night at the Chateau d'Eau,
The defense of the approaches to the and on Thursday morning the unfortu-
liastille was very thorough and strongly nate defenders heard that the Pantheon
kept up. Barricades at the entrance of had been taken after a desperate struggle ;
the Boulevard de Strasbourg bad been that the Gobelins had been surrendered,
taken by the regulars, but the insurgents and that a strong column was now operat-
had intrenched themselves in the Eastern ing in that remote quarter of Paris,
Railway station, at the head of that covering the ground with corpses, and
boulevard, and made a terrible light, shutting up one of the most effectual
When they wen- at last dislodged, it was avenues of escape. The forts of liieetre
at the cost of much life on both sides, and Ivry, which the Communists had
At the Chateau d'Eau the resistance took boasted of as final strongholds, were
on tremendous proportions, owing to the thus taken out of the insurgent bands,
presence of some of the leaders of the and the garrisons were called upon to
Commune and the desperation of the surrender at discretion. Bicfitre's com-
insurgents as point after point was swept mander and the fort was taken
refused,
away. They bad established powerful by assault; General Wrobleski,
while
batteries in this grand square, which lias after submitting to a desperate bombard-
in it one of the largest barracks in Paris, ment, blew up bis powder magazine, and
and huge structure known as the con-
a then surrendered six thousand men into
solidated shops, which was partially the hands of those from whom they could
burnt during the fight. The boulevards expect no mercy.
from the Chateau d'Eau down to the Rue would hardly serve the purpose of
It
Royale showed how tierce was tin 1

this narrative to recount fully tin 1 ma-
shower of missiles that the insurgents nieuvres by which the whole of the left
sent, 'frees were mown down, lamp- bank of the Seine was finally, on Tlinrs-
posts cut short off, fronts of houses taken day, put into the possession of the gov-
out, whole roofs sunk in, statues disem- eminent troops. The tragic interest
bowelled, and cafis gutted. I was at deepens with startling intensify from the
(he barricade of the Porte St. Denis, moment when the Hotel dc Yille. a
held by the government troops, on flaming ruin, was surrounded on three
Thursday afternoon, at four o'clock, and sides by the regulars. Thenceforward,
the insurgents were then throwing bottes the history of the Commune's resistance
i) mitraille (shells containing an hundred is filled with nothing save disaster, which
Followed fast and followed faster," of Marshal MacMahon would

have
triumphed; the would be
insurgents
until the sullen culmination. crowded back into the narrow tract of
The Hotel de Yille was then encom- the Buttes Chaumont and Pere la Chaise,
passed thus Towards the Seine, the
: and would lie crushed between the Prus-
corps of Genera] Oissey
had earned sians and the converging effort of the
the barricades Pont Neuf and
of the whole regular army.
taken possession of the island and the The Chateau d'Eau was, therefore, the
cathedral of Notre Dame on the right,
, last point of central resistance. The
BURNING OF THE HOTEL HE VILLE.
the troops had attacked a barricade regulars did not hesitate to call it the
defended well for a time at the Pointe " Key to Belleville."
St. Eustache, and after encountering a On Thursday the approaches of the
frightful resistance had carried it ; and regular army may be resumed as fol-
the middle column, coming straight tow- lows: The corps of Generals Clinch-
ard the late stronghold of rebellion, had ant and Douay rallied by the boulevards
already passed the Louvre. of Magenta, St. Denis, and St. Martin,
Nothing was left, then, for the insur- and from the Temple quarter. <>n the
gents hut to make their grand, bold stand [eft wine-, Ladmirault's corps operated
at the Chateau d'Eau. Once lost there. against La Chapelle and La Villette, and
they knew that the military movements General Vinov, crossing the Seine with
502 EUROPE IX STD/ni AXD CALM.
his men, was creeping towards the lias- papers n number of orders, of which the
tille, quite in the rear of the Chateau following is a fair specimen: —
d'Eau.
All around the gigantic square, and in Citizen Milliere, at the head of one hun-
it, the carnage was fearful. Thursday dred and fifty fuseens, will burn the suspected
n and evening the struggle cul- houses and all the public monuments on the
after]
initiated.
,
<)u
.
tin-
,
barricade,
, i-i
triday °
bank of the Seine.
lil
. .
( iii/rn Vesimer, with nity men, is specially

morning, amid a heap of twenty or tinny r|i;ip r(| ,
wUh ,,„. boul( vimis, ,,,,„, lh( ,
Made .
other corpses, the body of Delescluze leine to the Bastille.
was pointed out. lie was dressed in These citizens must arrange with the chiefs
simple morning costume, with polished "' the barricades for the execution of the
orders
boots and beaver hat, and had evidently
-
Paris, .">
Prairial, An 7a.
prepared himself with care, thinking that
he would be captured. He was killed
at the barricade, while urging on his men This order is signed by Delescluze,
to more energetic resistance.
a The Ranvier, Vesiuier, Brunei, and Dombrow-
ball, which struck him in the forehead, ski. Others concern the burning of
killed him instantly. Delescluze seems houses from which people might have
never to have made any attempt to go been seen firing upon the barricades,
away. He intended to die at his post, The bodies were strewn so thickly
and did so. For days before he was about the square of the Chateau d'Eau
compelled to Bee from the Ministry of that on Sunday, three days after the
War he hardly ever quitted his work- capture of the locality, many corpses
room. He threw himself on a mattress were under the branches of
still lying
which laid upon the floor near his work- trees, which had been strewn to impede
table, and took little naps of half an the enemy's progress. Severe hand-to-
hoiir's duration, then cast himself again hand fighting occurred at the Porte St.
with fury on his task. His counte- Martin, or not far from the square, <>n
nance in death bore a painful expres- this Thursday. One young man, who
sion of mute despair. He was an old hail ensconced himself in a sort of re-
man, who had been roughly used in the cess in the arch, from whence, high
world, whose kindness had been turned above the crowd, he could lire at his lei-
to bitterness by exile, and whose health sure upon it. remained in his perch after
had been completely broken by mental his companions had retreated, and killed
and physical suffering. His men seem half-a-dozen soldiers before the regulars
to have made no effort to remove succeeded in getting up where they could
his body, and the regulars found it shoot him. The insurgents piled their
Friday morning. Delescluze was [den- dead bodies in veritable revolutionary

tided by the fact that a very peculiar style on the barricades; and when the
cane, which he was known to have car- tremendous Thursday artillery duel of
ried twenty years, was "rasped in the night was over, the spectacle was sick-
dead man's stiffened hand. )n his per- ( enillg. Cluseret was said to have been
son were found number of letters,
a large shot on Thursday evening, in the retreat
some of which were from women, warn- from the barricades of the Porte St.
ing him thai he ran risk of being poi- Martin ; but he mysteriously made his
soned, etc. There were also among his appearance at the apartment of an old
EUEOTE IN STORM AND CALM. 503
and aeutral friend on that day, sub- seret rose coolly, gave a pleasant smile
sequently escaped from the walls of and hand-shake, and marched down the
Paris, and now lives in Constantinople. staircase as if going to breakfast, al-
A friend of mine, on whom he called, though his life would not have been
told me that, finding nothing could be worth a, rush if any one had chanced to
done in that quarter for his safety, Clu- recognize him outside the house.
CHAPTER FIFTY-FOUR.
The Retreat from the Chateau d'Eau. — Ruins of the Hotel do VUle. — The Burning of Important Papers.
— Piquet. — The Thinl Period of the Greal Seven Daj s' Fight.— Al the Buttcs < liaumont.
THE regulars took

Chateau
at the
sixty mitrailleuses
d'Eau, and eon-
of some of these cellars would
by the inroad of excited soldiers, seeking
lie startled
veved them to the Place de la Bourse, an antagonist who had taken refuge in
where they were proudly exhibited as the house. .V word, a retort in such a
conquered arms. The cannon which case, was enough to procure fur one's
the insurgents employed during the self a speedy execution, with one's face
thirty-six hours of their defence at this turned to the wall of his own house.
point did fearful execution on the houses Friday morning the retreat from the
at the Porte Saint-Martin side. Dozens Chateau d' Eau was consummated. The
of Communists hid in houses along the army's task was now comparatively easy.
square during tin' retreat, and were It consisted in surrounding the insur-
t'erreted out and shot as fast as found, gents at the extreme end of the city, at
The great fountain in the middle of the a point where they could not hope to
square was filled with petroleum, and a escape from the walls, and forcing them
solid shot had knocked one of the gigan- to unconditional surrender,
lie bronze lions into the oily pool. The Friday morning the same unvarying
cross fire under which the regular troops sunshine; the same thunder of cannon;
had to traverse the place was horrible, terrorism concerning incendiaries, and
Many a red breeches was killed in the the red Hag still Hying from the Bastille
march over the scattered houghs. column.
The light had continued up the grand The Hotel de Ville was a lovely ruin.
Boulevard Sebastopol all day Thursday, Four essentially popular and successful
ami down the Boulevard Magenta from governments have been installed there,
the church of Saint-Laurent, so recently The first was the "Commune" of the
made famous by the pretended discovery last century, which, majestic and fero-
of skeletons of voung girls there. Can- cious, occupied the halls from the 10th
non from all sides poured shot and of August, 1792, to the 27th of July,
shell into the retreating insurgents, and, 1793. The second was the Provisional
plunging through the roofs of houses, government of '48, from February -I to
murdered people, who asked nothing May I. The third was the government of
better than to llv from the scene of such National Defense, which, founded on the
honors. Many citizens actually died ruins of (he Second Empire, dragged
from flight during the combat. The out a shifty existence in a time of siege
most reliable accounts say that, some and starvation ; and the fourth was tin'
starved to death in the cellars to which last Commune of Paris, which violently
they were driven by fear of the shells; took possession of the Hotel on the 19th
and sometimes the harmless occupants of Match, 1871, and left the edifice in
flames on the "2:id of May. This carried away before the flames broke out
great Communal monument owes the in the Hotel de Yille. Possibly, how-
placing of its corner-stone to the pro- ever, theCommunists preferred to have
vost of merchants under Francis I. even that precious memento destroyed,
The ceremony occurred on the 15th because it had a taint of Csesarism.
of July, 1533, and the ground had In this building, so many years ago
then but just been cleared of the ruins that only great troubles cause tin- re-
of the famous Maison aux Fibers, which membrance of it. Mirabeau stood up and
dated among the most ancient buildings said, " I consider the National Guard of
of the city. Dominique Baccaro was Paris an obstacle to the reestablishment
the architect who designed the pristine of order. Most of its chiefs are mem-
form of the structure, and Jean Asselin, bers of the Jacobins, and, carrying the
" Master of Public Works to the City," principles of that Society among their
was charged witli the execution. In soldiers, they leach them to obey the
1550 only one story was completed, and, people as the prime authority. These
strangely enough, the civil wars which troops are numerous to take any
too
then desolated France were the main esprit tic corps; too wedded to the citi-
cause of a delay which little pleased the zens to allow the least latitude to royal
architects. Finally, in 1605, new minds authority ; too feeble to oppose a grand
modified the long-neglected designs, and insurrection; and too facile to corrupt,
the Hdtel gradually took form. Two not en masse, but individually, not to lie
centuries after, in 1801, the church-hos- an instrument always at the will of the
Holy Spirit, and
pital of the the Com- factions."
munion of the Church of St. John What Mirabeau said then was strictly
were consolidated with the Hotel de Yille true of the which National Guard
edifice, and thirty years after the work Father Thiers decided to dissolve. The
of demolishing all the houses in the Hotel de Ville in ruins; the National
immediate vicinity was undertaken. It Guard dissolved and disarmed; the
lasted five years, and tin' result was one Communal Committee of Public Safety
of the finest architectural effects in Paris. dispersed or dead ; the generals of the
Napoleon III. increased this effect by guards lying on hospital stretchers or
widening the space, and by making the heaps of corpses; the final, grand,
modern buildings around the ornate and desperate efibrt of the people shaping
romantic old Hotel of an extreme sim- itself in the " eccentric quarters." All
plicity. The was
interior of the building was, indeed, over.
much more richly ornate than are any of That same day, after the fight had
the Gallic palaces. Each chief of the begun at Belleville, a captain of regu-
Parisian municipality had for centuries lars, after having, with his men, con-
devoted his attention to enriching the quered a barricade, found one of the
various halls with memorials of his time. many prisoners who were to lie shot ap-
Painting, sculpture, and furniture here pealing to him. ••
Listen, captain !"
allspoke the languages of an hundred said he :

"
have a watch in my pocket
I
previous decades and thousands of indi- which belongs to the concierge across the
vidual tastes. The arms of Paris —a way. He gave it to me for safe-keeping
galley floating — with the legend Fluc- several days ago. Let me return it be-
"
tudt wee mergitur, were, it is supposed, fore I die !
— :
The captain had before him a little ary leaders. He could money, by
find
black-eyed lad of fifteen, erect, and legitimate or violent means, when
no
evidently nol afraid. He thought the one else could. The "delegate to lie t
poor child desired a pretext for escape, Ministry of Finances," Jourde, only
and. tired of his bloody work, he said obeyed Piquet. was also extremely lie
"
•• Yes. begone, little scoundrel ! violent in his an attack on
desires for
lint just as the captain and his platoon property, and had formed the plan of
of executioners had taken the lives of burning all the papers of the various
the other prisoners, the lad came back, credit societies, the notaries,and the
running, placed himself before the great corpora ions, I
that the Paris world
bloody wall, and said, "Here I am might start anew, lie desired to level
ready!" everything, believing that the iniquities
No soldiers would tire at him, and the of society arose from the unequal dis-
captain once more dismissed him, tears tribution of property and the tyrannies
standing in eyes, which opened wide at connected with the manipulation of large
such exhibition of nobility of character, capital.
Promenading among .lie ruins of One day, almost immediately after his
Wednesday ami Thursday was not, es- plan for burning immensely all these
pecially safe, but productive of much valuable papers had been mentioned in
reverv. One remembered the great re- the Commune, a well-known French
view that took place before the Hotel de gentleman, having no sympathy with the
Ville a month and the "rand old
before, insurrection, but to whom Piquet was
lace of tlie enthusiastic Miot (the pa- deeply indebted for past services, went
triarch of the Commune) inspiriting the to see the fiery attacker of property.
soldiers. How the songs rang, how the lie was accompanied by an American,
old man and his comrades embraced the to give character to his visit, which he
officers, and how tin columns marched1
feared might result in his arrest and in-
away into black annihilation and the earceration as an hostage. Piquet re-
execrations of tin- mobs of bourgeois ceived him with the most friendly cor-
and the commercial people of Paris! dialitv. ami after the gentleman had
One of the remarkable men of this broached the delicate subject, the Corn-
great insurrection was Napias-Piquet, muuist said :
formerly a barrister at Troyes, and. at "Yes, we intend to burn every paper in

the opening of the Commune drama, every important business establishment,
perhaps fifty-five years old. lie was public and private, all archives, and
tall, handsome, with sparkling eyes, and every record which has any value to the
an intense vivacity of manner which rich and those who have been powerful."
only the foreigner who has lived in linthere the Frenchman delicately in-
France can understand. Piquet was terposed the thought that tin 1
Commune
placed in the delicate and dangerous would do much (letter to carefully put
position of Mayor at 1'assy, during the its seals upon all buildings containing
latter days of tin' insurrection. He these papers, and to preserve the records
had. however, not only power there, but of the iniquities of property-holders and
was of much weight in the Commune corporations, and then to publish to the
councils. To him was largely due the world in future pamphlets all tin 1
docu-
financial promptness of the insurrection- mentary evidence of what he (Piquet)
asserted. To this the Socialist did not the National Guard. The other prison-
desire at first to listen, but lie finally ers were released, but Vaisset, the con-
said lie would consider it, and next day demned, was shot at tin' foot of the
seals were placed ou all offices of nota- statue Henry IV., and his body
of
ries, corporations, public and private, was thrown into the Seine. The Pre-
etc. fecture was then fired, and certain loud
Then came the crushing stroke of explosions showed that the insurgents
MacMahon's entry, and the Frenchman intended the work to he thorough. The
win) had reasoned with Piquet had, by a " Sainte-Chapelle," which had been
little stroke of finesse, saved to Paris especially marked for vengeance, re-
the destruction of papers involving in- mained absolutely untouched, and still
terests of thousands of millions of stands, revealed in the beauty which had

francs. Had he attempted to threaten long been concealed in the quaint courts
Piquet, he would have incurred the of the Palace of Justice.

greatest danger but he simply persuaded
; The third period of the great seven
him to procrastination. days' light in Paris properly begins with

Piquet was among the first to fall un- the afternoon of Friday, May 26th, and
der the bullets of the Versailles soldiery. ends at four o'clock ou the afternoon of
His loss was one of the great discour- Sunday, the 28th. During that time
agements for those who proposed to several hundred prisoners were executed,
continue the desperate struggle. the majority of them without trial, and at
The burning of the Palace of Justice, least ten thousand wen.' inarched through
on the Quai de l'Horloge, was the sequel the streets of the city, followed by how-
to the destruction of the Prefecture of ling mobs, I'n route for Versailles. General
Police. The latter edifice hail been pre- Vinoy, who commanded the reserve
pared for burning on the very first days forces, had, while the tremendous strug-
that the Commune came into power, as gle at the Chateau d'Eau was in progress,
not a member of the insurrection in- made his wav with but little lighting into
tended that the ancient Imperial inquisi- the Faubourg St Antoine. Inasmuch as
.
tion should have any place to repose the active forces got to Belleville much
when came back.
it On Wednesday sooner than General Vinoy had antici-
when the regulars were
night, the 24th, pated, he suddenly found himself in a
rapidly coming towards them, the dele- very important part of the action, and
gate Ferre was busily engaged in dis- cooperated with much energy, uniting on
tributing money to lie carried to the the Seine the corps of General Douay and
defenders of the barricades, when the General Cissey. Alter the taking of the
news came that he must fly. Rigault, Hotel de Ville, he was in the first line;
the prefect, was wandering about the and while General Douay was striving to
prisons, choosing victims on whom to occupy the boulevards from the Chateau
retaliate for the indiscriminate shooting d'Eau to the Bastille, Vinoy was preparing
of the Communist prisoners. Ferre, to attack the insurgents in Hank. I ha \ e
before leaving, took down his 1 k of already described the burning of various
prisoners. First on the list w'as the important public buildings at Belleville as
name of one condemned to death ac- the insurgents retreated, but this in no
cused of having given money for illegiti- way checked the progress of the regulars,
mate purposes to certain members of who, on Thursday afternoon and evening,
were vigorously attacking the rebel line in this quarter the people had evi-
ct' defense on the Lynns and Vinceunes dently taken hold in earnest, for very
railways, and who finally carried, with few of the combatants wore any uni-
sinali loss, the barricade under the grand forms. Not far from this scene of
viaduct ou the Boulevard de Mazas. slaughter stands the historic house where,
The insurgents attempted to burn the in 1848, the most decided resistance in
Lyons railway station during their retreat, Paris was made. The old mansion still
but failed. bears marks of these terrible cannon-
The Place de la Pastille had always ades, and its second baptism of lire has
been considered by the Communists as made the inmates unwilling to rest
one of their principal strongholds. Its within its shaky walls. The .streets
position is naturally good for defense, here, as elsewhere, had the appearance
and was exceptionally strengthened by and the corpses of men
of a battle-field ;
barricades on all the avenues which led and women for two days.
lay neglected
up to the grand "Column of. Inly," such General Vinoy quietly continued worm-
as the Boulevard Beaumarchais, the Rue ing his way from the Place du Trdne
St. Antoine, and the three now cele- until Friday, when he came upon a knot
brated streets, lines de Charenton, du of barricades on the Boulevards Prince
Faubourg du Temple, and de la Roquette. Eugene, Philippe-Auguste, and de
In these important commercial highways Charonne. Here was a handful of brave
occurred one of the most sanguinary men who reasoned against Fate, and
combats in the records of street fighting, persisted in supposing that their fellows
The insurgents, driven to despair, made were gaining ground in the centre of
a fortress of every house and fought the city. They were carried on Friday
from its windows, until the invading evening. The defenders were put to
soldiery came to kill them and throw death, and some of the houses near at
their mutilated bodies into the streets, hand were General Vinoy
burned.
Although the barricades at each entrance camped under a raking lire,
that night,
of the three streets were continually at the foot of the green and lovely hills
tottering under the fearful shocks of the which bear within their immemorial
solid from the regulars' cannon,
shot breasts the most celebrated dead of Paris,
they were rebuilthour by hour, ami a — he was before Peiv La Chaise.
Gavroche of '71 was always found to At this celebrated cemetery, and the
replant the red flag high over the paving- Buttes Chaumont, the superb park for
stones as often as an arl fill sharp-shooter whose beauty Napoleon III. did so
brought it down. Finally, the troops much, the insurrectionists made their
"tinned" the barricades, invading on hist stand within the town,
the east the Faubourg St. Antoine. The most reliable accounts admit that
and those unfortunates who had been thirty thousand men, women, and chil-
flyiug from the Chateau d'Euu found dren, who had been directly engaged in
themselves in the midst of a new deroute, the fighting at Belleville, were finally
than which nothing could be more com- surrounded in the cemetery, and hun-
plete. On what has been named the dreds of these were massacred. I fre-
Charenton barricade, one hundred and quently heard well-to-do people, with
five corpses were found. Many were whom I am personally acquainted, miv
those of old men poorly dressed; and that they hoped that not one of the thirty
a
thousand would escape alive. The 1 lat- to that which brought Vinoy to Pen- I,
teries of the insurgents, placed on a high Chaise, and the two army corps were
slope in the middle of the cemetery, com- simultaneously in position in the rear of
manded the Opera quarter, and had been Pere La Chaise and the rear of the
firing sharply at every place whence Buttes Chaumont. The troops of Lad-
smoke and flame issued for the past two miraiilt's corps came out on the Place de
days. On Friday the artillerymen di- la Rotonde, the central position of La
rected their attention to the assistance Villette, having arrived by the Rue de
of their brethren in the Faubourg du La Fayette and the Boulevard de la
Temple, and stray shells came whizzing Chapelle. The insurgents, tinned to the
intol he Central Markets. The " great dam- left after a vigorous defense, retired to
age done by these shells to property" is a the Docks ; — then came the conflagration
figment of aristocratic imagination; even of Friday evening.
the respectable Paris journals admit that On Saturday morning the Communists
they lit but few tires. They wounded and found themselves shut in to Belleville
killed, however, a great many inoffensive in a semicircle, the two extremities of

citizens. The Communists had made an which leaned on the ramparts, and he I
immense collection of ammunition at bend of which followed the boulevards

Belleville, and having at their command from the Bastille to the Chateau d'Eau,
about two hundred cannons, huge and and extended along the grand canal from
small, at first disdained the very correct the Faubourg du Temple to the Place de
fire which was poured into their batteries la Villette. It rained men were tram-
;
from Montmartre heights, only three pled into the mud by others advancing;
thousand Ave hundred yards distant. As the dead were horrible to contemplate.
last as cannon were dismounted, fresh At the left, on the Buttes Chaumont, the
ones were brought up, until the marines observer, with a good field-glass, could
on Montmartre wrung their hands and see a garden, the surface of which had
swore that the Devil was aiding the an- been ploughed by descending fragments
tagonists on the Buttes. of shell. At the foot of a tall tree,
Friday evening, Paris, which, say the whose branches were stripped, was a gi-
Prussians, had been completely envel- gantic battery. Men, bare-headed and
oped in smoke for the three previous in their shirt-sleeves, were serving it.
davs, was illuminated by a vast con- Every two minutes the battery spoke in
flagration, which set the whole anguish- thunder tones. Looking from the bluff
stricken city out in bold relief against a towards the great double-spired church
frowning and angry sky. All the in- of Belleville, and beyond the Menilmou-
habitants of the suburban towns at once tant quarter, one could see, at tin' right,
imagined that the final coup had arrived, a vast bank of verdure, — Pere La
and that the insurgents had tired the Chaise. Flashes at the foot of a huge
whole town. Hence the wildness of the monument showed the position of the
reports which reached England and insurgent battery there. A retreating
America on Saturday and Sunday. battle-line, following the canal by La
The final attack was ready. While Roquette, the Boulevard Richard Lenoir,
old General Vinoy took fitful rest in his and the Boulevard de la Villette, showed
dangerous quarters, General Ladmi- the progress of the attack.
rault had executed a movement similar General Douay was crushing out the
510 EUROPE I.X STORM AND CALM.
last fragmentary resistance in the Fau- ness, the regulars charged into the bat-
bourg ilu Temple; General Clinchanl teries, and a massacre of fugitives be°an.
was subduing all the barricades barring Ladmirault meantime obtained La Vil-
approach to the canal, lette completely, and the next morning
.Vl the point where the Boulevard the artillery officers of the Versailles
Richard Lenoir intersects with that of army were curiously examining the can-
Prince Eugene was gun barricade,
a uon in the Buttes Chaumont battery,
solidly built, with ditches
and embra- Belleville was burning in a hundred
.sines. It was so protected by barricades places; one could hardly walk forty
in the adjacent streets that the regulars yards without seeing two or three
were compelled to relinquish attacks in corpses; and the dismal processions of
front, and, going up by the Bastille, and bare-headed condemned, marching away
brushing away smaller obstacles, sur- to be shot, were met everywhere. < >u
round the gigautic work, pouring a heavy that Sunday morning, fatal to the Corn-
fire upon it from all sides. When, alter mime, a few insurgents who had been
some hours, the insurgents abandoned it, passed by in the Faubourg du Temple
making a desperate run for life through and the Rue d'Angouleme still held out;
one unlooked-for avenue of escape, the but in the afternoon, at two o'clock,
whole section for a quarter of a mile silence was complete. At live P.M.
around was in ruins. On the J » 1 1- Marshal MacMahon : ounced to Paris,
spattered stones lay corpses blackened in a brief proclamation, that the insur-
with powder, clothes covered with gore rection was quelled.
torn off from fever-wild frames by dying Twenty thousand prisoners were taken
men in their agony, broken guns and during the hist three days.
fragments of an exploded caisson and Sunday morning dawned gloriously,

its contents, half-a-dozen disembowelled and the unwonted tranquillity had in it a
horses; and the earth, says an eye-wit- sense of blessedness. Cavaliers, many
ness, w:is in little clots, which could only mounted on the horses which so lately
have been produced by a generous ad- had been ridden by the officers of the
mixture of blood. Commune, galloped gayly everywhere.
All Saturday afternoon shells raiued Officers sauntered arm-in-arm under the
upon around and above the
Belleville, trees, which showed so many marks of
church, and the horizon was enveloped violence, or seated themselves under the
in enormous clouds of smoke. The in- cafeawnings and sipped coffee, handed
surgents, who wire cannonless, were them by waiters who still showed signs
finally driven into the space between the of fear at sight of all uniforms. The
Buttes Chaumont and the Chateau d'Eau ;
attractions were, as usual in France, a
the two u ings of the regular army joined, theatrical spectacle, composed of groups
throwing the remains of the insurrection- of prisoners brought down from Belle-
istsupon the centre, which received the ville and La Villette, and paraded be-
shock without deigning to move forward tween ranks of horsemen. Towards
or back. Five o'clock-. si\. seven, noon on that historic Sunday a ghastly
passed, bringing death momentarily to faltering procession of five thousand men,
the brave defenders of the Pere La women, and children passed through the
Chaise batteries; at eight, just as the cityon their way to Versailles. Mar-
rainy twilight was surrendering to dark- quis de Galliffet rode at the head of a
EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM. ."ill
brilliant staff, behind which was a long horse's feet felled him; a bugler dis-
who had deserted to the
line of soldiers mounted, and he was placed on the
Commune, and who were to be shot, vacated saddle. The cavalry men set
Women and men went arm-in-arm, many off at sharp pace to regain the troop.
a strong man holding up his fainting The man fainted; his face was covered
wife or daughter. There were real with blood and dirt ; he cried, " Kill
family parties, where the strong work- me !
" Five minutes from that time, at
man held one of his loved ones each by a street corner not far from where he
the hand, and children followed father, was captured, his appeal was heeded,
mother, ami daughter. man, One old and his quivering body thrown into a
wdio seemed dazzled by the light and cart. A well-dressed man struck it with
frightened at the execrations of the a cane and called it "Canaille."
crowd, fell down repeatedly, and was Near the walls, on that day. at the
dragged hurriedly up by his comrades, principal gate leading to Versailles, the
who feared that the soldiers would shoot Marquis de Galliffet ordered eighty-five
him. By far the most horrible sight, of the prisoners shot ; and his orders
however, was that of a man who broke were at once executed. Then on went
away and ran furiously, dashing aside others over the hot, dusty roads to Ver-
the hands outstretched to stop him. A sailles, where they were packed into
troop of cavalry galloped after him. He the filthy prisons, and then examined at
foamed at the mouth, and ran still faster ;
the rate of one thousand per day.
DOW he was down now up — now a —
—
CHAPTER FIFTY-FIVE.
Concessions of M, Thiers. — The Vindictiveness of the MuUUe Classes. -Massacre of the Prisoners.
English Comments on i In' Seven Days' Fight. — Last Moments of the Insurrectionists. Testimonies
of Eye-witnesses. — Statistics of the Slaughter. — A Curious Photograph. — Out of Storm into
Calm.
said that M. Thiers made brief at once made, I will prosecute no one
IT is
visit to Paris during the

:i
seven
is
under the grade of colonel, and I will

days' fight, 1 nit that lie was only too leave the gates of the city open for three
glad to return hastily to Versailles. days. Is not that sufficiently explicit?"
astonished ami horrified beyond measure The delegates professed themselves

at the carnage and conflagration visible overwhelmed with his generosity, which
on every hand. Thiers had never been amounted to a substantial amnesty for
willing to believe that the Communists all the chief offenders except those
would proceed to extremities, and directly connected with the regular
Maxime Ducamp recounts that shortly army, and who must therefore be con-
before the final battle, three Commu- sidered as traitors to the flagand they ;
nists, personages of consequence, called went back to Paris full of joy, and two
at \ ersailles, on the Chief of State, and of them went to the Communal Assembly
made a final effort at reconciliation and to report. Much to their consternation
peace. These persons, whose intellectual they were immediately clapped into
status was letter than that of most of
1 prison, and informed that they were a
the followers of the Commune, and who brace of idiots. Thus ended the attempts
were therefore entitled to some attention, at a peaceable adjustment of the difficul-
endeavored to impress the president with ties between Paris and Versailles; and
the fact, that unless decent terms were from that moment there was no hesita-
given to the Commune, it would whelm tion on the part of the Communists.
the whole capital in the ruin, which in- They hacked, plundered, burned, or
volved itself. M. Thiers refused to destroyed, without rhyme or reason,
believe this. "They have said this very anxious to pull down, having demon-
often." he remarked, " they have made strated in the face of the world that they
all kinds of threats, but they will not had no capacity for construction they ;
execute them." The three delegates had boasted of the new social edifice,
firmly insisted that he was not familiar which they were to raise, but could not
with the temper of the insurrectionists; even lay its foundations.
that they would not hesitate to burn the The judgment of the chief apostles of
priceless treasures of the Louvre, ami to liberty Europe upon their work was
in
deface it' not efface all themonuments full of .severest condemnation. Mazzini
of French grandeur. M. Thiers re- wrote to a friend, shortly after the close
flected for sonic minutes in silence, after of the Insurrection: "This revolt, which
which he said to the delegates: "Go broke out so suddenly without precon-
back to Paris, and say that if surrender ceived plans, and tinged by a purely
negative socialistic element, abandoned burglary; was reduced to slay in order

even by all the French Republicans of to steal; and found
embar- itself finally
any renown, but defended with passion rassed by useless crimes, not knowing
and without fraternal spirit of conces- where the treasures, the secret hoards,
sion by men who ought to have fought, which it had committed crime in order
but who did not dare to fight against to possess, were to be found. The com-
the foreign enemy, — tended inevitably parison pleases me, and I extend it.
to end in the exhibition of ma-
terialism, to finish by the
acceptance of a principle of
action which, even had it ever
become law, would have thrown
France back into the darkness
of the Middle Ages, and would
have taken from her for cen-
turies to come all hope of resur-
rection. This principle is the
sovereignty of the individual,
which can bring about only un-
limited personal indulgence,
only the destruction of all au-
thority, and the absolute nega-
tion of national existence."
Perhaps Mazzini was a little
too severe on the National THE LAST PLACARD

< ' uard when he accuses it of OF THE COMMUNE.
not having had the courage to
light the Prussians ; but all the rest of his Paris was,
indictment is without a flaw. Rossel, who in the hands
died at the shooting- post on the plain of those sav-
of Satory, shortly after the fall of the ages, exact-
Commune, on record a formidable
left ly like a
and rather contemptuous characteriza- combination
tion of the Commune. " No one of the lock. They
actors in drama," he said, "had
the had gotten
studied his part for the great play. There i n t o t h e
was no study, no character, no durable house, and
audacity in the whole party. This ple- the Com-
beian crowd of workers aspired to pos- mune stood knitting its brows before the
sess the world, knew nothing
and yet it ponderous safe which contained the
of the world. When a burglar means to social riches, but was obliged to content
force a house, he first makes a study of itself with the copper which had been
the surroundings, the doors, the locks ;
left outside. Therefore in its vindic-
he knows where the strong boxes are, tive rage it set fire to the invaded house
and how to get into them. But the before it departed." There is the bitter-
Commune was a novice at the trade of ness of repentance after deception in
.14 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
these stinging words of Ro9sel. lie was whole length of the Rue de Rivoli,
not the only generous and noble spirit lighted by fires all along the route, —
led into the movement, only to find that the Ministry of Finances, the Tuileries,
he had associated himself with an ignoble and 1 don't know how many private
and disreputable crew. houses. The effect of the flames rising
Bad as the Commune was, terrible as up to the blue sky for the weather is —
the wreck ofand of life in
property most beautiful —
isquite startling. Every
the great seven had been,
days' Sght few yards there is a kind of barricade,
neither the remembrance of this nor any and around it a heap of corpses. In
other thing could excuse the ferocity and the midst of these tires, breathing the
vindietiveness of the middle elasses of sulphurous and under the impression
air,
Paris when once they had gol the Com- (if the indignation and irritation inspired
mune down. They were not content by so many crimes, man seems to un-
with setting their feet upon ils neck', dergo a. complete transformation. One
but they wished to mangle and torture looks with a kind of cruel satisfaction
it. Prisoners were treated with a feroc- upon the faces, yellow as wax. of the
ity which would scarcely be credited if bodies struck down by the balls of the
it were to be described. I have little chassepdts, and involuntarily one falls
doubt that dozens, if not scores, of in- to cursing those dead men in the name
nocent people perished because of the of the massacres and the victims every-
denunciations of stupid or villainous ser- where to he seen. It would seem as if
vants and zealous tradesmen. Scores sensitiveness would lie destroyed, but it
of foreigners narrowly escaped death at is, on the contrary, increased. Going

the hands of the regulars, simply because back in the evening towards the Champs
they were foreigners and found some Elysees, after having passed buckets at
difficulty in explaining their presence in the lire of the Hotel de Ville half the
Paris. The Marquis de Galliffet was day, I met in the line St. Ilonore a
accused, and never made any very ex- long file of prisoners that soldiers were
plicit denial of the charges, of having taking to the head-quarters. Among
decimated his processions of prisoners them were women who were really
without any trial or other formality than hideous. The men marched, some carry-
pointing his linger at the ones to be shot. ing their heads erect; others, with a
Many of the stories told of the regular sombre and terrible aspect others, com- ;
troops and their excesses of vengeance pletely broken down with fear. In the
were exaggerated at the time, but enough party were many young girls, and even
is established as history to make one children. One man was leading by the
believe that the older a nation grows the hand his two little sons ; a daughter, six
more terrible is a civil war within its or seven years old,hung about his neck.
boundaries. The crowd followed upon the heels of
From the diary of a French writer, who the prisoners, yelling -Death! Death!
carefully observed the seven days' fight, Death to the pitl'oleitses I Down with
1 take a few sentences which show the assassins! Don't lake them any far-
temper of the time. The writer is ther! Shoot them right here!' And
speaking of the closing days of the from the fury which shone in the eyes of
fight. Never again
'• will such a spec- these people, it seemed as if at the first
tacle be seen. 1 have just been up the halt they would precipitate themselves
upon the prisoners and tear them to published at the time as if the French
pieces. The little girl looked upon this capital were razed ground
t<> the
yel ;
angry crowd with her great black eves two years afterwards there were but
filled with an indefinable expression of few marks of the conflagration or of the
astonishment, of fright, and of sadness; battle of the streets visible, and tourists
and the more frightened she became, the invariably indulged in exclamations of
more she tugged at the neck of her poor disappointment. There were no ruins
father. His wandering look seemed for to see.
a moment to fix itself upon me. I Here we may take leave of our notes
could not restrain myself. I ran to the of the great insurrection. French soci-
man, who held the little creatine like a ety revenged itself terribly upon those
shield against the death which he very who had temporarily interrupted its
likely I said to him in a
merited, and course. The hatred of the classes was
supplicating voice, Give me your little
'
intensified rather than extinguished.
daughter I will give her back to you.' Men like Rossel, Ferre, Bourgeois, Mil-
For answer, he only said to me, I am ' liere, Delescluze,and Rigault appear
innocent. I don't know why I have to have left behind them persons who-
been taken into this company.' Just consider them as martyrs, and it was
then soldiers pushed us violently apart." not until after the general and complete
The excited statement of the London amnesty that the aspirations for a second
"Times" on the last day of May, that Commune were substantially checked.
Paris was no more, that we might look All those who were anxious for the rec-
for it in future, but should find its place onciliation of the opposing forces in
only, was scarcely justilied by facts. French society, men like Victor Hugo,
Yet the destruction had been so great men like Father Ilyacinthe, did their
that there is nothing wonderful in the best by word and pen to bring about
formidable nature of the impression a fraternal feeling. But, alas ' Fra-
which itproduced in neighboring capi- ternity exists only upon the portals of
tals. The Hotel de Ville, the Lyric the public buildings, where it is written
Theatre, the Palais Royale, the Grand up in connection with its handmaidens,
Library of the Louvre, the Council of Liberty and Equality.
State, the Cours des Comptes, the Palais No one connected with the Commune
de Justice, the vast granaries on the appears to have manifested much hero-
Boulevard Bourdon, and the Tuileries, ism or bravery when his final moment
the enormous warehouses mi the docks came. Raoul Rigault had no time to
of La Villette, dozens of rich mansions protest or to fume against his captors.
in the Rue de Lille and the Rue Royale, He was pushed against the wall and shot
and in other of the principal avenues — like The recital of the death of
a dog.
had been either totally destroyed or so Milliere, who was a man of some power
damaged that their demolition was as a publicist, and who at the time of
necessary and such had been the de-
; the Victor Noir riots had a temporary
termined efforts to burn the historic notoriety, is rather interesting. Mil-
cathedral of Notre Dame, and the lierewas taken after the regular troops
churches of St. Eustache, the Made- had broken down the barricades at the
leine, and the Trinite, that it seemed to Pantheon, in the home of his father-in-
those who read the sensational accounts law, who lived hard by, and was brought
r
. )16 i-;ri;<>PE in storm and calm.
before a general installed near the Lux- you can make me do it if you wish."
embourg. As the wretched man was The officer then had him forced on to
dragged into the house with a thousand his knees, ami his execution was then
people howling at his heels, the general proceeded with. lie cried, "JVre I'hu-
said, " So you are Milliere?" "Yes;" — iiniiii/r .'
" and was going to chant some-
said the revolutionist, assuming a certain thing else, when death interrupted him.
dignity, " ami yon must remember that Among the Americans present, in Paris
I am a deputy." — "That may be SO, but during the reign of the Commune ami
I rather think you have lost, your quality the battles in which was crushed, no
it
of deputy. For that matter, we will pro- one saw more, nor went about more
ceed to have you identified." The bravely determined to observe, even at.
officer who ha«l arrested Milliere pres- the risk of his life, than Mr. Omer T.
ently told him that the general's orders Glenn, of Cincinnati. This gentleman
were that he should lie shot. ••Why?" has kindly communicated to me from
said Milliere. The officer answered, his private journal a few notes, which
" I only know you by name. I have read are not without a striking interest.
articles of yours which quite disgusted With reference to the famous courts-mar-
me. You are a viper, whose head must tial, Mr. Glenn writes: "I passed by
lie crushed. You detest society." Mil- the ChAtelet Theatre, on every side of
liere answered, "
do indeed hate so- 1 which, except the rear, large crowds
ciety in its present form." " Very well — ; were gathered. Prisoners were being
then you shall lie expelled from its tried rapidly. 1 had not long to wait
midst. You are about to lie shot." before a batch of twenty or thirty came
Milliere protested that this was barbar- out under guard of the blue-uniformed
ous cruelty, worthy of savages, etc. ; soldiers, who did most, if not all, of the
but he was taken at once to the Pan- shooting at the Caserne Lobau. These
theon, where the general, by a refine- prisoners were marched down to the
ment of cruelty, had ordered he should Caserne Lobau, placed over against a
be shot in a. kneeling position, as if beg- wall ; the huge folding-doors of the
ging pardon of Society for the evil building were then closed, and we im-
which he had wrought. A participant mediately heard a rattle of musketry,
in the execution says that Milliere re- followed by the usual stray shots at
fused tci lie shot in a kneeling posture. those showed signs of life. A
who still
The officer said to him, " It is the or- gentleman who was with me said, Let •
ders : von will he shot thus, and not, us get away from this horrible sight : I
otherwi.se." He
comedy, played a little can't stand it so we crossed the street,
;
'
tore open his coat, showing his naked and took our way up the Boulevard St.
hreast to the platoon charged to shoot Michel. Here and there soldiers and civi-
him; so the officer said to him, "You lians were cheerfully at. work replacing
need not indulge in any theatricals just ; the paving-stones, levelling barricades,
take it easily, anil it will be much bet- etc. The chances of being called upon
ter." Milliere answered, ••
I have a. to aid in this work were so good that I
right, in my own interest and in that of concluded to return, after a promenade

my cause, to do as I please." — " Very of a. few squares; so I went back to the
well, then, get on your knees " ! Milliere Chatelet.
then said, "1 will never do it myself; •'
In a few minutes out came another
party of prisoners under guard. were brought before regular courts after
These were men ranging in age from the complete cessation of hostilities.
eighteen to sixty, some of them hatless, This does not comprise the hundreds, if
almost every one appearing to be of not thousands, who were shot by the
the working class. I am inclined to sentences of courts-martial during the
think that they knew they were marching battle. From the 3d of April, 1871, to
to immediate death they looked so ; the 1st of January, 1872, thirty-eight
effaria. Arriving at the Caserne Lobau, thousand five hundred and seventy-eight
the same scene was gone through with, individuals were arrested as participants
the closing of the doors, the rattle of in the insurrection. Of this number the
musketry, one or two cries, then some military courts judgment upon
sat in
stray shots. It seemed to me that the thirty-six thousand three hundred and
executioners wore the same appalling nine, of which two thousand four hun-
expression of countenance as the prison- dred and forty-five were acquitted, ten
ers themselves. I ventured to remark to thousand one hundred and thirty-one
a bourgeois at ray elbow, '
At this rate were convicted, and twenty-three thou-
of destruction, Paris will soon have no sand seven hundred and twenty-seven
workmen left.' — 'Oh !' replied he, 'there were liberated after examination. As
are plenty of others to come up from the the officialdocuments of the Commune
country.' This butchery at the Caserne say that some hundred and fifty thousand
Lobau went on for several days. armed men took part in the revolt, these
I once went to Pere La Chaise, and there figures would indicate that France was
talked to some workmen, who had been nut too severe in her punishment. The
burying some executed Communists. government papers say that among
The workmen thought they had covered those arrested were seven thousand four
in about four hundred men. I also went hundred persons who had been previously
to Montparnasse. Here dead men, dis- convicted for crimes against the law.
interred at various points in the city, There appear to have been but little
were being brought in in wagons, to be more than a hundred sentences to death
thrown into the ditches dug for the Com- passed by the military courts from 1871
munards. As the crowd pressed for- to 1875, at the end of which period the
ward to get a view of the bodies about to "Commission of Assassins," as the sym-
be tumbled into the trenches, an old pathizers with the Commune called the
guardian, in uniform, would cry out, Parliamentary Committee which dealt
'
Move back, ladies and gentlemen ! with the prosecutions, made up its re-
Move back It is not a pleasant spec-
! port. There were many singular and
tacle, I These burials of
assure you.' lather inexplicable sentences. Thus,
the wagon-loads of corpses went on all Rochefort, who was not really a Com-
that day. I do not believe there were munist, but who had to leave Paris be-
thirty thousand executions, as has been cause he told the Commune the danger
reported ; perhaps five thousand in all." into which it was marching blindfold,
The official statistics with regard to found himself sentenced to confinement
the punishment of the insurrectionists in a fortress for life, and was sent off to
have a pathetic interest. Of course the other end of the world, whence he
there is included in these statistics only made his escape in mostromantic fashion,
the punishment of the prisoners who and found his way to New York, and
,
thence to Switzerland. Paschal Grous- After the horrors of this prolonged

set, tin' good-looking and amiable young struggle, peace and security seemed to
man whom the Commune dignified with bring with them a complete nervous re-
the appellati f its delegate of foreign action, from which all who had been
affairs, managed to save his head, al- spectators of, and partial or unwilling
though he passed through five minutes participants in the drama, suffered for
of tin' most terrible suspense in front of many days. The principal physicians of
the Grand Hotel in Paris, when he was Paris assert that hundreds of people had
recognized in a cab, and was saved, as if their brains literally turned by the
by a miracle, from being torn in pieces. horrors which they were compelled to
Ile shared Rochefort's condemnation and witness; and it is not strange that even
punishment, and fate destined him also those who were not predisposed to in-
to share in the audacious journalist's sanity were in a mental condition far
escape from the penal colony of New from normal for a lengthy period.
Caledonia. From Paris I went to London, and at
In the shop of a bookseller on the St. Denis, as the train crawled out of
Boulevard 1 one day found the photo- the walls of the capital, and passed the
graph of a, working-man, upon whose half-ruined fortress, we found the Prus-
face there was an expression of mingled sians, who departed from their usual
awe, contempt, and fear; the look was dignity so far as to give the passengers
positively so mysterious and awful that in the train an ironical cheer, and to cry,
it at once commanded respectful atten- " Vive In < !" Put this gratuitous
'inn hi a in
tion. I inquired the history of this sin- insult was far from being in accordance
gular picture, and was told that it was with the usual custom of the Germans,
the face of a workman photographed who, as a man. had quite as great a con-
doubtless in the interest of some psycho- tempt for the Commune as the French
logical study, a moment or two before he property-holder could have.
was executed. The expression of this In London we seemed in another
poor fellow, standing thus upon the world. The calm of the great green
threshold of eternity, still hot with the parks, the laughter of the children in
passions and the enmities of time, may the streets, and the undisturbed flow of
be taken as typical of the attitude of commerce in the mighty metropolis,
the fighters for the' Commune during seemed almost unnatural, so accustomed
the last terrible seven days, of which 1 had the eye and ear become to the sound
have endeavored here to give some ac- of battle and to the sense of danger.
count.
CHAPTER FIFTY-SIX.
After Storm, Calm. — London and Paris. —
Points of Resemblance and of Difference. London —
and Paris Cockneys. —
Old London. —
Contrasts in Manners, Food and Drink. Sunday in the Two —
—
Capitals. Mutual Respect and Comical Concealment of It.
THE rival
contrasts suggested by the ar-
in London after the con-
The Reform
country had settled
Bill agitation
hit ie of
over,
its
the
long
fusion, the bloodshed, and the dangers periods of inertia, — as seems the it to
in Paris, were highly impressive and foreigner, — periods which the needed
in
striking; but they are even at ordinary next reform seems to crystallize in the
times only less in degree. English sym- national mind without apparent glow of
pathies had been deeply stirred by the feeling or noisy demonstration of any
turmoil on the "Continent," as our British shape whatsoever.
cousins with their insular coolness call London and Paris, between which
the greater portion of Europe, and there an incessant and most curious
is
London had, with its magnificent charity, interchange of sentiment and of travel,
done good alike to Germans and to are as unlike each other in some respects
French. But beneath the sympathy it as if they were thousands instead of
was not difficult to discern a kind of a few hundred miles apart. Each has
pity which was not unmixed with scorn, flowing through its centre an historic
and there was a disposition in the upper stream, whose banks are lined with im-
classes to decry and perhaps to deny the posing and with venerable mansions,
value of the revolution through which and the citizens of each city pay especial
the neighboring country, the secular reverence to these rivers, and are as
enemy and antagonist, but now the proud of them as if they were Amazons,
prostrate and appealing ally, had passed. Congos, or Mississippis. Each city has
That England was by the vast
stirred an ancient and ornate Cathedral church,
demonstration of German military power and the lover of the beautiful finds it
there was abundant proof. It was ap- hard to choose between Notre Dame
parent in the renewed attention to coast and Westminster. Each has its cor-
defences, the rebirth of the military feel- porations with their innumerous tra-
ing in the remotest centres, the most ditions, their fuss and feathers, their
rural of counties, and the disposition to gowns and furs, their privileges and
turn for consolation in the presence of accumulated wealth ; each has a muni-
these huge triumphs of a neighbor and cipal legend, which is full of glory and
kindred race, to the contemplation of lighting, of careers of citizens enriched
the "Greater Britain," of which Sir by trade and ennobled by their sover-
Charles Dilke has given us so picturesque eigns; each has a huge institution de-
and adequate an account. England had voted to military and naval glory; and
not been in the midst of important events each its crypt in which a hero sleeps.
for the two or three preceding years. There is a kind of cousiuship between
the Pantheon and St. Paul's. Each sound of Bow Bells, and he finds little,
capital has its observatory, which it if anything, to object to in the monu-
thinks the fust and each
in the world ; ments or the manners bequeathed to him
its academies of painting, which respec- by the Englishmen of past epochs.
tively assert their supremacy without Modern Paris, with its enormous and
doubl as to the legitimacy of their claims. wide avenues, broad side-
with their
Each has its parliament, its ministries, walks bordered with graceful trees, with
its official "season," and diplomatic lux- the lightness and grace of the huge yel-
ury, activity, and splendor; each its an- lowish-white mansions, with their balco-
and the great,
nual visitation of the rich nies and their immense ranges of plate-
who go to Paris and London because ghiss windows, their dexterously deco-
they are London and Paris, and for n<> rated shops, and their superb churches,
other reason at all and each its throng
; halls, markets, fountains, and squares,
of adventurers, who come to prey upon is a dazzling and bewitching vision to
the rich and to bask in their sunshine those who first look upon it; and from
with that recklessness of the future April to November the beautiful town is
characteristic of their class. bathed in delicate sunlight and rarely
But after a little, one finds it difficult overhung with the gray and frowning
to establish analogies between London skies, which, joined to the canopy of
and Paris. Both cities are alike in this sooty and sulphurous smoke, make Lon-
regard, that while their citizens manifest don so oppressive to the new-comer.
and express the greatest veneration for But London has a quiet beauty of its
the relics of the past, the modern and own, which the great town does not
new portions of the capitals are unpict- hastily reveal, and which one must learn
uresque and prosaic. Perhaps the Lon- to find out. There are certain tempera-
doner attaches more importance to the ments specially delighted with what they
past than does the Parisian. In France, aic pleased to term the "mellowness"
hundreds of thousands of people date of London, —
its mists, which seem to
everything in their country's history give a kind of glamor to the commonest

from the Revolution of the last century, objects, its winding streets, with unex-
which, as Paine says, made " a new pected stairs and gateways, triply pro-
France." But in England, although in tected with iron hooks and spikes, its
their time they have cut off a king's broad expanses of court, around which
head, they have not cut loose from the ancient houses stare down upon black-
and the beau ties of
traditions, the legends, ened, almost unrecognizable, statues of
former centuries, and they still speak of half-forgotten worthies, its mysterious
them with bated breath. The Parisian rookeries, dignified with aristocratic
cockney is a cynic, and the London names, to which the busy Londoners
cockney an enthusiast. If Alphonse or repair for refreshment, the shadowy
Adolphe go to Versailles for a Sunday's taverns into which the sun almost never
outing, they are more than likely to criti- peeps, the recesses protected by oaken
cise the landscape gardening of Le screens, by red curtains, in which men
Notre, and to poke fun at the shade of take and drink with the
their dinners
the great monarch. But 'Any on the gravity of conspirators and communicate
sands at Margate or at Hampton Court in whispers, though they have nothing
is as truly patriotic as when within the whatever to conceal.

It is worthy of note that while Paris biting village circles. Both Paris and
is the most literary of European capitals, London have a curiously provincial flavor
the stranger is not so prone to associate which is not perceptible in other great
its architectural and physical features cities. If any thing striking hap-
with some literary remembrance as he is pens in London at two o'clock of an
in London. One thinks of Dr. Johnson afternoon, it is talked of in Whitechapel
and of Dickens in a walk up Fleet and Belgravia same minutely gos-
in the
Street and through the .Strand; but one siping vein "Every-
before
sunset.
rarely gives a thought to Balzac on the body knows everybody who is anybody
boulevard. In London, the high streets in Paris," said a Parisian to me once.
and the by-streets are filled with children, As the citiesbecome great, the citizens
clean and dirty, well and ill dressed, in them, instead of growing unconcerned
decorous and screeching, children young in the presence of daily events, take a
and children half-grown, babes under ludicrously exaggerated concern in them.
the feet and brats at the corner but in ; London, with ils four and a half mil-
Paris, one starts in search of a child lions, Paris with its two and a half mil-
almost in vain. The street Arab, so lions, of what might be called intramural
familiar to English and American eyes, folk, and with their colossal aggrega-
is unknown in Paris. If the baker's boy, tions of wealth, of culture, of crime, of
in his white cap, is disposed now and misery, of adventure, are as eager for the
then to be jocular, he does it with the latest news of a rifle-match or a horse-
air of a mature and blase clubman. As race as a New England village might be.
for M. Hugo's famous GavrocJie, I have Much of new London sprang into
yet to see his exact type. He must being during the long wars, when Great
have gone out with the 1848 Republic. Britain was cut off from association with
But London is a city full of children, and the continent, and when, consequently,
of children who take their ease in their her architects and builders were de-
good capital, unrestricted by draymen, prived of models of taste, when, in —
policemen, and other functionaries dread- fact, the people cared little for taste in
ful to juvenile folk elsewhere. their shelters ; hence the miles and
While in elegance of modern architect- scores of miles of hastily-planned, squat
ure Paris undoubtedly takes the lead, and blackened house-fronts, which con-
in independence and in quiet comfort, ceal happy and harmonious homes, but
not devoid of a certain picturesqueness, which to the outward vision are repulsive
London, if it could get rid <>f its smoke, enough. When Paris got the informing
would be without a rival. In Paris touch of modern improvement under the
there is always a feeling of attrition. Empire, when Napoleon III., who had
The life is intensely public, glaring. had his gaze sharply fixed on London's
The street is a salon in extenso. One defects during his residence there, re-
instinctively feels in his pocket for his solved that he would leave a monument
gloves, and looks to his cane when he built out of the lime-stone quarries of
goes abroad. At home, there is the France in the capital, where he managed
lodge-keeper, a kind of jack-in-otlice, in to maintain his rule well or ill, old
his den. In a " quarter " of Paris there Paris, was destined to lose some of
are a thousand little centres like so its charm and mysteries in the presence
many gossiping, covetous, and back- of this pressure of improvement, but
" old London " has kept its strangeness the Rue de la Paix, on many of the
and oddity, and bids fair to keep it long. grand boulevards, and in most of the
The wood pavement lias found its way avenues devoted to shops where articles
into many a black alley and in front of of luxury are sold, the shutters are all
many an antique pile, but the craze for up. only a Hebrew now and then plying
the widening of streets has not been his commerce in bold defiance of the
allowed to interfere with old London. general rale. The hundreds of shops in
Many points of contrast between Lon- Paris which depend upon the custom of
don and Paris have disappeared within the foreign traveller are as careful to
the last twenty years. Of the ordinary keep Sunday as they arc Eng- to put "
Paris, nothing was more impressive lishSpoken," and iSe Habla Espafiol,"
••
before the many changes which invaded upon the plate-glass of their windows.
the tvve> capitals consequent on the great On the other hand, the sternness of
current of international travel, than the the London Sunday has been much
difference in the aspect of the two great broken by the great invasion of the for-
cities on the Sunday. To the American eign clement, the Italian, the German,
of the Atlantic and the Middle States, the Jew, the Greek; and tin' wanderer
the profound repose of respectable Lon- in the great capital in pursuit of some-
don on the sacred day was as natural thing to cat on a Sabbath afternoon now
and proper as, to his thinking, the open sees the doois of an inviting cafe wide
transaction of business, the gayety, and open where he would have sought for re-
the festal atmosphere of the Sunday of freshment in vain some years ago. The
Paris was shocking and detestable. The stranger's idea that all classes of Lon-
American found, however, that there doners give themselves
up with Puri-
was an unpleasant Sunday side to Lon- tanic devotion to a solemn stillness on
don, and was duly shocked in presence the Sabbath is incorrect. some of
In
of the thrones of roughs, and of the upper circles, receptions are held and
wretchedly-clad women and even chil- dinners are given ; in the literary and
dren waiting, at mid-day, the opening artistic guild, the day is used for meet-
of the public houses, where intoxicating ings and conversation ; but it is rare to
liquors were freely dispensed. Put this hear of a concert or an entertainment, in
the tolerant traveller noted as the result the strict sense of the term, at any pri-
of the depravity consequent upon igno- vate house on Sunday. The trains run
rance, while he went hack to the old at certain hours of the day; the parks
French Revolution, with what he was in summer .are filled with hundreds of
wont to call its mischievous teachings, thousands of promenaders of all classes,
for the license prevalent in the French and bands of music sometimes play re-
capital. Nowadays the Parisians close frains taken from opera bovffes which
their shops, not because they consider bear the mark of Paris export. The
Sunday as more worthy of observance museums arc not yet open to the public,
than any other fUte. day, but because as in Paris, although here and there is
they take it as the occasion of their an exhibition, as Greenwich, where

at
weekly ailing, and their promenades one may wander through the stately halls
among the beauties of tin' clean streets. and see the pictures of great naval bat-
Among the fashionable tradesmen Sun- tles and the memorials of Nelson, shown
day-closing is universal in Paris. In with reverent gestures by the whimsical
old guardians ; and a singular feature of riment ; but the Parisian crowd is not
London society is the aristocratic gather- satisfied without a balloon, and, possibly,
ering in Gardens (popu-
the Zoological a horse-race, a shopping excursion among
larly known as the Zoo)
from four to the booths of the fairs, which are as nu-
seven on a summer Sunday afternoon. merous as the saints in the calendar, fire-
The holiday making of the Londoner in works, andaroystering dinner in theeven-

the many beautiful resorts near the capi- ing, with probably a merry carriage-ride
tal, such as Hampton Court, Richmond, home after dinner. In London, people
SUNDAY MARKET IN PETTICOAT LANE.
Windsor, Kew Gardens, Dulwich, is go abroad simply for exercise, for which
vastly more decorous and subdued than every healthy English man and woman
that of the Parisian, who, in company with has a kind of mania; in France, no one
his wife or his sweetheart, finds his way thinks simply of physical exercise, and
to Versailles or St. Cloud, to Meudon or the glow of appetite which follows it, but
Sceaux, to the forests of St. Germain or rather of the sensuous beauty of green
Fontainebleau, to Ville d' Array or to the lanes and turfy lawns, the sight of pretty
pretty villages on the banks of the Seine. fountains, symmetrical parks, and a look
If the London cockney indulges in a roll at the fashions as displayed in the mov-
on the grass, it is the extent of his mering throngs. France being a highly
democratic country, every conceivable rors of a gloomy Sunday in the English

kind of vehicle, unless it be an advertis- metropolis had sufficiently alarmed her
ing van. is admitted to the Hois de Bou- to prevent her ever again visiting the
logne. The cook goes to ride with her British Isles.
coachman lover on the box of his cab, As Paris grows larger it takes on, as
which falls into lino behind the stately London long ago took on, a climate of
equipage of an English duke, a Spanish its own. Humboldt, in a burst of indig-
grandee, or the President of the Repub- nation against the France which he never
lic, if he happens along. But the liked, once said that Paris hail the worst
unfortunate wight who attempts an en- climate in the world ; and the great
trance to Hyde Park in a numbered car- traveller's dictum has at least some
riage will find himself most haughtily foundation in fact. When the gloom of
motioned away, and must wait until he November settles down over the fair
can afford a lively, hired or owned, be- city, Paris is scarcely more agreeable
fore he can mingle with the " upper ten." than London. The vast area of chimneys,
Perhaps there is no sight in London park letting forth the smoke of the soft Bel-
on any day so amazing as that of the gium coal, year by year, makes the
immense number of handsome carriages winter atmosphere very like that which,
returning from the Grand Prix, through when one sees it in London, Man-
first
the liois de Boulogne, in Paris on a Sun- chester, or Birmingham, gives a shudder

day afternoon. But two-thirds of the of repulsion. But in great cities, people
people who (ill thesehandsome vehicles take small note of the weather, their
belong to the great mob of adventurers lives being artificial and indoors, for
and adventuresses, who perpetually lill your true Londoner is, despite his frantic
the motley world of Paris. There is a devotion to exercise, an indoor being
"Hospital Sunday" and a "Studio Sun- eight months of the year. It is not
day "in London; but in Paris, Sunday strange that he should be so in a climate
is the choosen day for any and almost which elicits such mention as I once read
every great public f&te or celebration. An in an English journal, namely, "January,
election is held on Sunday ; the great February, March, April, May, June, and
horse-race of the year occurs on Sunday ; the other winter months." Paris has its
ministers address their constituents on that fogs, dreary and uninviting as those
day and if first performances at the thea-
; of London. sometimes has cold and
It
tres are not given on Sunday evenings, it rainy Junes and the weatherwise say
;
is because the managers have learned by that the climate of the north of Europe is
long experience that the Sunday papers slowly changing to cold, fog, and damp.
are read with more interest that those of Both the Parisian and the Londoner
any other day, and they wish the criti- seem determined to fortify against this
cisms of the premiires, which take place inroad of the elements by an increased
on Saturday evenings, to appear in them. devotion to alcohol, and since the great
The continental papers are never tired of war of 1870-71 Paris has learned to drink
reviling the English Sunday as a horri- deeply. Both in Paris and London, eat-
ble institution, calculated to promote sui- ing and drinking are elevated to the
cide or despair : and a lively French lady dignity of pursuits. Some of the finest
once informed me that the terrors of the and most imposing edifices in newer
Channel on a Saturday night and the ter- Loudon are joint-stock restaurants, with
above and deep and warm

palatial halls highest society in England. There is no
basements, where juicy steaks and chops longer heavy drinking at lunch or dinner.
sputter upon the grills, and where the It is reputed bad form and in Paris it ;
foaming ales and wines, presumably was never good form outside the bour-
good, flow freely until the small hours, geoisie; as for the •• people" of each
except on Saturday night, when every- capital, it drinks whatever comes handy,
thing is on the stroke
relentlessly closed and all it can get. and for the last lew
of twelve; and if "Big Ben," in his years, wretched adulterated stuffs have
tower by the Thames, should sound the been sold in both cities. The populations
last of his twelve strokes before the bar of London and Paris are swindled with
of the publican and the cafe keeper is pale Marsalas and Beaunes,
sherries,
shut, a burly policeman is at hand with St. Emilions, and other seductive fluids
first a friendly warning and next a with exotic names, which are concocted
peremptory summons. The rigidity with out of the strangest materials and the ;
which the laws regulating small matters rhi ordinaire, a huge bottle of which is
are enforced, in both London and Paris, placed before the workman of Paris at
is a source of constant wonder to the his noonday meal, comes from a glucose
American, accustomed to more latitude factory scarcely half a dozen miles from
in the carrying out of laws which he his restaurant. Gone are the festal days
makes for himself. when, in the lustrous lands of the south,
It is odd to remark that the citi- the soldierand the peasant paid for their
zens of each capital constantly reproach wines by the hour and not by the bottle,
those of the other with their lack of — having, for a modest subscription,
knowledge of the art of cookery. It free access to the casks at the cabarets.
is a firm article of faith in the French- In London, the omnipresent beer-can
man's calendar that the English are still holds its place in the popular fancy,
savage in their appetites, and have no and beer does its work in keeping hun-
national dishes while the Englishman is
; dreds of thousands of artisans and all the
unshaken in his conviction that the serving classes in a befuddled state of
French live upon messes and slops, and content, under conditions which might
numerous bits and corners of things of otherwise arouse their liveliest com-
which the fastidious stomach of the plaints.
Anglo-Saxon would not allow him to par- To the American mind the importance
take. The real fact is that good and attaching to the food supply in England
wholesome cooking is to he found in especially is very striking. You open
the homes of the middle classes in each the morning paper and you find columns
of the great cities, and that when you upon columns on the mutton from Aus-
come to the tables of the nobility, the tralia, the wheat from Dakota, the Rus-
merchant princes, and the nouveaux sian and Hungarian supplies of grain,
riches, in London or Paris, you find their the prospects of a crop in Egypt, the
dinners composites made up by cosmo- bad harvests because of the rain in Eng-
politan cooks, and showing a choice not lishcounties, and all this treated with
always in harmony witli the laws of an earnestness which betokens its na-
health, from the luxuries of every country tional importance. The Paris paper
under the sun. Strong and long pota- lightly gossips of Lamartinein his palmy
tions have gone out of fashion in the days, or tells a tale of Louis Philippe or
Napoleon I. Tin London paper grap-

1
but he is enthusiastic, when the stranger
pics with the problems of the crowded is not by, in his praise of English order,
quarters of the East End. and waxes respect for law, the grand regularity of
eloquent over the "dead meat supply." Parliament with its ancient formulas and
< > 1 1 1 of this struggle for t' 1. this recog- imposing traditions, the modest preten-
nition of the factthat the nourishment sions of royalty, and the popularity of
must and does come from without, has its representatives, and although he does
grown the "Imperial policy" of Great enjoy seeing the lion's paw caught in
Britain, with its Woolwich, its navies the net, still, when the lion roars, he
which sweep the seas, its tremendous ac- cheers as loudly as if England had not
cumulation of money in colonial enter- been his secular enemy, had not invaded
prises, its venturesome speculation in his country fourteen times, and had not
c itries thousands of miles away, and sat in Calais town for more than three
probably its tremendous antipathy to hundred years. The Londoner of high
protection. Twenty years ago, France, and low degree showed how intense was
plethoric and proud, ridiculed England his real admiration for Paris when she
for this close attention to the food ques- was in her great struggle, and while he
tion ; but now tin' crisis has fallen upon is wandering about the avenues of the
France also, and her legislators, ceasing capital on his Easter holiday, or in mid-
to quarrel vainly among themselves over summer, when the whole city seems
idle questions of "groups" and dynas- transformed into a beautiful garden filled
ties, cafi factions and church cliques, with stately palaces, he is hearty in his
begin to talk of protective duties on compliments, and it is not until he gets
foreign wheat; and the word pork is, on home again, and has lost the thin edge
some days, found as often as the word of his souvenirs of travel, that he begins
picture in the scholarly and thoughtful anew to consider the Frenchman as prone
French periodicals, to frogs, as deficient in manly strength,
London and Paris have an
Finally, and, possibly, in need of moral backbone.
intense and well-grounded respect for Yet there is not so much intercourse be-
each other, which each is always doing tween the two capitals as might be sup-
its utmost to conceal under an assumed posed from their proximity. It is said
cynicism and critical coldness. Your that lint fifty-five thousand English peo-
Parisian talks of the fogs, the blackness, pie came to the great Paris Exhibition
and the gin palaces, and the brutality of of 1878, and in 1867 the number must
the Anglo-Saxon with great contempt; have been less.
CHAPTER FIFTY-SEVEN.
The Germans at Dieppe. — The English Channel. — An Effective Fortification. — The " Precious Isle set in
the .Silver Sea." — The North Sea Coast. — English Seaside Resorts. — The While- Cliffs of
England. — The Gi-eat Commercial Highway. — George Feabody at Portsmouth.
that when the Germans were amply fortified. The defences of the
IT at said
is
Dieppe, they indulged in some Thames, and of the roadway of Dover,

speculation as to the ease with which the the entrenched camp of Plymouth, the
Channel could be crossed, and England great works at. Milford Haven and Pem-
invaded. They might have erected a broke, awaken the admiration even of
column to their speculations, like the the jealous Continental powers and the ;
" Napoleon's Column" which stands fortifications Portsmouth Harbor,

of
on the heights of Boulogne, and as it where hundreds of thousands of pounds
weaves to and fro in the brisk salt have been spent in the creation of ar-
winds which blow over the cliff, serves mored forts, seem to leave little to be
to remind the passers by of the vanity of feared. The gigantic guns in the forts
Napoleon First's great plan. The Ger- on the pier at Dover are among the
man hosts were wild with triumph in wonders of Europe. Yet although the
when they talked so
those days of 1870, project of a tunnel underneath the chalky
coolly of a bold and they
enterprise, bed of the channel has been agitated for
were perhaps pardonable. The French more than twenty years, it lias made but
have long since given up any wild little practical progress. It is of no avail
schemes for the invasion of the island that the French protest that such a
which stands to the northward, boldly tunnel can in no case be made use of for
rising out stormy waters, the
of the military purposes, that it might he neu-
"precious in a silver sea" of
isle set tralized by act of Conference, that it
which Shakespeare spoke so fondly and ;

could be effectively neutralized by act of
whatever may be the ambitious dreams dynamite, that no force sufficient to
of the German Chancellor, they can capture even a small town could under
scarcely have extended so far as to com- the most extraordinary circumstances be
prehend within their airy scope a hostile forced through it; John Hull prefers to
excursion from Rotterdam

Amsterdam or distrust the foreigner, as he distrusted
to Harwich or Dover. If some day the him at the beginning of the century,
absorbing process of which one now when he was striking at him with all his
heat's so much is completed, and Ger- might and main. The channel has been
many gains a new shore line on the North crossed by balloon, crossed by hardy
Sea, there may be much bluster about swimmers, who had not the fear of
coercing England ; but the time for that sharks before their eyes. Human beings
has not yet come. have done their best to bring the " silver
The English, however, are fully awake streak " into contempt and show that it
to the possibility of danger, and their is not difficult to traverse; yet England
channel and north-easterly coasts are considers it her practical fortification,
528 EUROPE IS STORM AM) CALM.
especially when she sets afloat on it her which clashed with her interests or with
Buperb Channel fleet, a floating fortress her ambitions. She points her cannon
which, in normal times, may be ordered at the Continent, and at the same time
away to any danger point, but in periods professes desire for absolute peace with
of disturbance on the northern part of all Europe.
the Continent is at its post. The island A wonderful coast line is this of the
fortress has round about it a tremendous North Sea and the English Channel on
moat filled with the most capricious and the Continental side, with its ancient his-
difficult waves in the world. The coast- toric cities, and its hustle of nineteenth-
guard squadron, with its iron-clad tur- century movement and commerce. At
ret-ships, its and some
torpedo boats, a fishing village live miles from Bou-
" which are still
of the " wooden walls logne, one may fancy himself transported
valid, is very powerful. Twenty years hack to the Middle Ages. There is little
ago the coast fortifications of the United if any hint of modernism in costume or
Kingdom were absurdly insufficient. architecture or anything else therein.
The " Martello" towers of the old days In the French coast towns, Cherbourg,
could be knocked to nieces in a few r
Havre, Dieppe, Boulogne, and Calais,
minutes withmodern artillery; but when there is a curious contrast of the old and
rilled cannon came in, the English deter- new ; fishing towns nestle about the
mined to fortify their coasts so that they churches on the hillsides, aud down by
should hav no cause for regret. the water are line quays and imposing
After 1860 the work went on with warehouses. Of these French coast
great rapidity, and the new port of towns, Calais aud Dieppe are, perhaps,
Lowestoft, the huge group of batteries the most picturesque. On the breezy
at the mouth of Stowe at Harwich,
the heights of Sainte Adresse, back of
the works at Shoeburyness and at Slice] -
Havre, are innumerable chdteaux and
ness. the lloo and Darnett forts protect- villas, where the merchant princes who
ing the great arsenal at Chatham, the once owned great fleets have retired to
perfected defenses of Dover Castle, and the enjoyment of fortunes such as their
the splendid lines of forts which hedge successors may never hope to make.
about the maritime establishment at Trouville, on its pretty sands, behind
Plymouth, — forts having granite walls its black rocks, and backed by an ex-
three feet, enough to defy
thick, strong quisite, almost idyllic, succession of rural
almost any known projectile, and their glades filled with picturesque Norman
embrasures furnished with metallic buck- farms, is a famous midsummer rendez-
lers, —
all these immense and formidable vous for the fashionable world. At
chains of iron, steel, and stone bulwarks Trouville, ler the Second Empire,
have been paid for by the nation un- September was the high season when ;
complainingly, Imt they have added the courts arose and the magistrates
enormously to its burdens. Greal Brit- went to bathe, all the social world fob
ain complain-, hut little of the debt con- lowed them. All along the coast of
sequent on playing at the game of war. Normandy and Brittany smart towns
More than two-thirds of her national are springing up, tilled with hotels and
indebtedness is due to one lone- series of country bouses created for the residence
wars which have been waged by her of the English, the American, the Bel-
within our modern days against powers gian, and the German travellers, who
like to spend a few weeks by the North- monumental hotels, solemn as Egyptian
ern Sea. The English come in throngs pyramids, and sometimes
almost as
to the French bathing places, and the gloomy, yet with substantial comfort
French go in turn to walk over the cliffs bestowed within their massive walls.
of Dover, or to dwell for a time in the But the curse of the English fashionable
gorgeous hotels at Brighton. An Eng- hotel is its intense devotion to regula-
lish duke takes up his station at Dieppe, tions. Everything seems arranged by
and a French duke goes to Portsea, or rote, until one grows to fancv himself
to Ventnor, or some other ro-
mantic nook on the pretty
shores of the Isle of Wight.
The English coast towns on
the Channel are perhaps less
cosmopolitan than their con-
tinental rivals opposite. But
some of them, like Brighton,
are quite splendid. Brighton
is more than ever " London-
super-mare," now that the
swift express trains from the
central railway stations in the
metropolis are so frequent. A
famous novelist, a poet fond
of contemplating the waves,
or a smart scientist, will have
their houses at Brighton and
yet keep in theLondon move-
ment, getting away from the
smoke and steam of the dingy
metropolis as night settles
down over it. Time was when
Brighton had a physiognomy
of its own but this is now
;
gone. The long promenade,

with its front of noble hotels
and villas, shaken and rattled
THE SCOTCH VOLUNTEERS AT BRIGHTON.
by tln> impetuous wind, might
be taken for a quarter of London which in a prison rather than in a hostelry.
had been accidentally blown out to sea. One must regulate by stern method
life ;
Hastings has more flavor than Brighton. and this the Briton does readily and ;
midsummer, charming,
It is, especially in it is noticeable that he grumbles only
and at Easter, when crowded with visitors, when he travels abroad, submitting at
almost as gay as its more fashionable home to small tyrannies quite past com-
neighbor. prehension. After the hotel, in impor-
The an Eng-
characteristic features of tance, comes the " pier." A first-class
lish seaside resort are enormous and bathing town often has two piers, and
530 EUROPE IX STORM AND CALX.
nn these daring structures, which run hend the weekly excursions of throngs of
fur out into the stormy water, concert- cockneys.
rooms and restaurants are constructed, At the French seaside resort, the
and one has the pleasure <>f risking hat Casino, with its gay crowds of richly
or bonnet in :i struggle with the wind, in costumed ladies of the upper, middle,
company with thousands of others. and the lower worlds, and the beach,
every morning, while listening to the with its freakish and perfectly unre-
music of u regimental hand. In im- strained carnivals of bathing, furnishes,
portant naval and military stations, there perhaps, more amusement than can be
isalmost no show of uniforms, for the found any English coast town. The
in
English officer doffs his costume as soon continental peoples do not go to the
ox THE SANDS AT BRIGHTON.
as he is off duty. The variegated as- scaside for rest or recreation, they go
pect of the street of a German garrison for jollity, perhaps for dissipation, for
town, where hundreds of officers arc frolics. The English ride, drive, walk,
clanking their swords ami perpetually play lawn tennis, bathe, and feed, on
saluting, is unknown in England. The scientific principles ; they are not in pur-
hotel, the pier, the promenade along suit of pleasure so much as of health
the shore, the daily assemblage, espe- and repose.
cially in ports like Dover anil Folke- Very beautiful and impressive are the
stone, to see the new arrivals and to white cliffs of England, rising out of the
comment upon them. — these, joined to Channel on a calm summer's day, and
the most discreet bathing, in which the very remote and much-to-be-longed-for
sexes are separated with prodigious care, do they seem when the traveller is toil-
are the main points observable at Eng- ing towards them in a diminutive packet
lish seaside resorts, unless we compre- in the midst of the boiling surges in win-
i
ter. The Channel ports, on either side, narrower escapes farther from home, but
are small and inconvenient, and the craft they have produced no one who lias sung
which can enter them afford but poor or spoken so melodiously or forcibly of
accommodation to the traveller. Up and the historic strait as the old gray-haired
down the great highway of the North poet who lived on a Channel island for
Sea and the Channel, and the way to the half a generation rather than breathe
mid-Atlantic, go the silent fleets, great the air of Paris with the usurper. Vic-
lines of steamers trading from Holland tor Hugo is a good sailor, immensely
to the Indies, the German and the Bel- fond of the sea, and from his coign of
gian ships, the enormous argosies on vantage in Guernsey, studied the Chan-
their way to Antwerp, now one of the
principal ports of Europe. The Orient
pours its riches through this narrow
strait into the Scheldt and the Zuyder
Zee, whence they are dispersed through-
out the vast domain of Germany and of
the North. The quays of Antwerp can
receive and discharge in one day more
freight-cars than an}' other three terminal
stations in Europe. Antwerp is the
greatest distributing point on the Conti-
nent to-day.
When the storms and fogs begin, the
list of disasters on the Channel length-
ens with frightful rapidity. Collisions
must naturally lie frequent on a route si
thronged with craft of all kinds, from

the huge merchant steamer to the small
fishing-smack. There is a sudden crash
in the night two great shadowy forms
;
have met; hundreds of lives are lost,

and the next morning a hundred news-
VICTOR HUGO.
papers tell a story of horror. It seems
as if these disasters were fated to occur
from time to time. Innocent emigrants nel as lovingly as in his youth lie had
bound over seas are swept out of exist- studied Paris. In his ''Toilers of the
ence before they have got out of sight Sea" it is always the phenomena of the
of laud. Now and then the Channel Channel that he describes, the worn and
swallows up a victim in a most mys- cnimbling rocks, the bold shores, the
terious manner, as it took clown the tormented waters, the sudden storms,
" Eurydice " close by the Isle of Wight. the flashing of the lightning, and the
It is strange that there is so little said mysterious and deadly mists of La
and sung about the Channel in England, Manche. He tells with pathetic force
while so much is made of it in France. in one of his books the story of that
It is true that the English have their brave Captain Harvey who went down
attention diverted to greater seas and in the Channel on the nisrht of the 17th
of March, 1S70, while making his usual residence of his friend, Sir Curtis Lamp-
trip in his fine steamship the " Nor- son, and while the dead merchant lay in
mandy," from Southampton to Guern- state iu Westminster Abbey, thousands
sey. Harvey was known to the vener- of poor came to pay their tribute of re-
able poet, because he had taken him to spect to one who had known how to
see the review of the English fleet at make so good use of his wealth. The
Sheerness on one occasion, and had scene at Portsmouth at the time of the
decorated his ship, saying that he had embarkation was quite affecting. Thou-
done it " for the exile." This touched sands of the poorer classes appeared to
Victor Hugo's heart, and when Captain think it an occasion on which they
Harvey's ship, the "Normandy," collided should show special respect, and the de-
with a great screw steamer going from parture of the " Monarch " from the
Odessa to Grimsby with a load of five port, attended by the capricious little
hundred tons of wheat, and went down corvette the " Plymouth," which looked
in the mists and the waves, he gave hi in like a swallow alongside a barn when in
such an epitaph as only a Hugo can the immediate neighborhood of her Brit-
give, drew a picture of the noble
lie ish convoy, was saluted by the thunder
captain standing erect on the bridge, of hundreds of cannon.
revolver in hand, keeping back the self- I shall never forget the quaint, remark
ish and unruly, forcing into the boats of an old man at the railway station.
one after another all his passengers and I inquired of him, on the morning of
his crew, saying a pleasant word to a little the ceremony, at what time the train
boy who was sent last; and then quietly bearing the remains and the delegation
going down into the waves witli the ship, from London would arrive. " Well,
from which he would not be separated. sir, we are expecting of 'im down at nine
"Every man," said Victor Hugo, "has o'clock," placing an indefinable emphasis
one right, the inalienable right of becom- on the " 'im" which indicated that in his
ing a hero, and Captain Harvey used his mind the departed merchant was still a
right." vital personality.
It was from Portsmouth, in the early George Peabody certainly left the
days of 1870, that the fine war-ship impress of his talent as well as of his
the " Monarch " sailed for America, hav- munificence upon the great capital, and
ing on board the remains of the great it is almost startling to those who had
American merchant who had so long known him in life to come upon his
made London his home, and who had bronze figure, serenely seated in the
endowed its poor with so many charities. midst of the hustling crowd, hard by
Mr. Peabody died in London, at the the Royal Exchange.
CHAPTER FIFTY-EIGHT.
England's " Silent Highway." —
The Sources of Her Greatness. —
Her Protection of Her Trad?. Wool- —
wich the Mighty. —
Greenwich ami Its History. —
The Procession of Commerce. London's Port. —
—
The Docks and Their Revenue. —
London Bridge. —
Dore in London.
WE have said elsewhere that England

has carefully defended the passes
blackened, buildings, with the mazes of
alleys and piers, and innumerous small
of the Thames, the great " silent high- craft flying hither and you, as if hope-
way," as it is called, one of the chief less of finding their way in the general
avenues of the commerce of the world, gloom, — all these give a shiver, and one
and the most miraculous spectacle, when is inclined to turn from the contempla-
international commerce is in its normal tion of them.
condition, on the face of the earth. To If the Seine may now and then be said
the stranger, however, the first sight of to woo to suicide, it is difficult to imag-
the Thames is a disappointment, for no ine the Thames as tempting to self-mur-
foreigner can share the feeling of the der. It is something to fly from, and
British tar who, on returning from a long although inmuddy waters and its
its
cruise in the Levant, looked up with rap- slimy ooze poor wretches do now and
ture to the cloudy sky above him, as then find death, suicide being punished
he entered the Thames, and exclaimed, with the greatest rigor by English mag-
" Thank God !none of your beastly blue istrates, as a crime against society, even
sky here " ! There are moments in sum- the hungry are wary of jumping in.
mer when the spectacle of the Thames, On Lower Thames we have the
the
bearing upon its noble in-coming tide its commerce, and the military preparations
majestic procession of barges and light- which advance and protect commerce,
ers, filled with riches from all parts of hand in hand. He who watches the
the world, is not only picturesque but pos- arrival of the stately fleets from every
itively beautiful. Through the hazy clime under heaven, understands why
shimmer of a June afternoon this vision Woolwich, — the vast arsenal and prep-
of the wealth borne obediently by Father aration field of the army, — has its ex-
Thames every day into the metropolis, istence. England fully understands the
is one not to be forgotten. But the maxim that " he who trades must be
blackness of November is nowhere so prepared to fight," and Woolwich is a
black and dreary as by the Thames side ; standing advertisement of the British
nowhere does architecture seem so spec- willingness to protect her commerce, and
tral, fantastic nowhere misery so re-
; to seize upon any favorable opportunity
pulsive, so frightful. The creatures that for aggression where her commerce may
cower in the recesses of Westminster find a new outlet.
Bridge seem far more wretched than the So too, Greenwich, in its historic re-
poor of Naples or of Dublin. By day pose and monumental calm, represents
the mud-flats, when the tide is out, with the nobility of the British marine in a
their fringe of huge brown, or almost worthy manner. There are broad lawus,
5:?4 EUROPE IN STORM ASH CALM.
noble arcades, great gray halls filled John Franklin sailed, in 1845, on his dis-
with pictures of battles on sea. chapels, astrous voyage to tile Arctic Ocean.
monuments, and comfortable homes for Still farther up, on the left, is the noble
tin' old sea-dogs, who accept the homage park at Greenwich, on a lofty point in
and the gratitude of the nation with be- which stands the famous observatory, an
coming dignity. Greenwich gives one humble group of buildings without any
an idea of what England has done; architectural pretensions whatever.
Woolwich is a perpetual reminder of Greenwich is famous for that peculiar
what England can do. delicacy of Thames, the infinitely
the
There is not much that is romantic on little whitebait, at whose shrine annually
the Lower Thames. Gravesend, below worship all the ministers of the Crown,
which are the six great military works who even go down to Greenwich to in-
which protect the entrance to the river, dulge in a dinner at which speeches.
is pretty enough in summer time, and is >uppo>ed to l.e pregnant with the coming
full <>t" historical souvenirs. There it political policy of the year, are pro-
was that, in 1522, the great emperor, nounced.
Charles Y.. embarked with Henry VIII. The old manor of Greenwich was a
and Cardinal Wolsey in a procession of royal residence in the fourteenth century,
barges waiting to receive them; there and it ison record that Edward 1. "made
that Henry VIII. landed when he was an offering of seven shillings at each
on his way to invade France; and there holy cross" in the chapel of the Yirgin
that Charles I., when he was a prince, at Greenwich in 1300. There stood, in
and when starting on his harum-scarum ! t.'i:!. a palace, romantically known as

trip to the court of Spain, narrowly es- the Manor of Plaisaunce. This was
caped recognition and arrest by the owned by Humphrey, Duke of Glouces-
ferryman for whom he had no silver. ter, and at his death, the manor and the
and whose calm he was obliged to cross palace reverted to the Crown. Henry
with a piece of gold. VIII., who was horn
Greenwich, was at
From Gravesend, in the old days, cum- very fond of the old town, and spent
brous sometimes marvellously
barges, large sums of money in the .'lection.
decorated with carved and gilded orna- says an ancient chronicler, of sumptuous
ments, used to ascend the Thames; and houses. ••
Greenwich," says Lambarde,
it was not uncommon to see a royal train ••was. when Henry VIII. came to the
of these barges, thirty-five or forty in throne, a pleasant, perfect, and princely
number, slowly making their way the to palace." There the king married his
upper reaches of the river, escorting first wife, Katharine of Aragon there he ;
some majesty who had come from foreign astonished all England by introducing
parts ami landed at Gravesend. To- at the feast of Christinas, in 1511, a
day, the town is a yachting station, where masked dance " after the maner of
the Royal Thames Yacht Club lias its Italic:" and there, in 1533, the Princess
head-quarters, in the season, and where Elizabeth was horn. Greenwich Hos-
thousands of fashionable folk go when- pital, which covers a wider area than any
ever the races arc announced. Up river, royal palace of England except Windsor,
a little way, is Greenhithe, another is. to my thinking, one of the finest
favorite resort for yachtsmen, and re- buildings on the Thames. There is
nowned as the place from which Sir nothing in central London, not even
-3
a
M
O
ffl
r
o
o
t»
GO
00
B
Somerset House, which can be compared Sir John Rennie remodelled, with won-
with it. Its lofty cupolas and its hand- derful skill, all these docks and work-
some colonnades rival in beauty the finest shops, created a vast steam-reverse
of the continental and the palaces ;
and river-walls, and
basin, mast-slips,
" painted hall " is one of the most unique Woolwich was soon as well equipped for
museums in Europe. From the observ- building first-class iron steamers as it
atory there is a pretty view of the river had been for sending forth the old
and the perpetual procession of ships. wooden " first-rates." But itwas found
It is said that this observatory stands insufficient for the building of new armor-
upon the site of a tower which, in Eliza- clad ships : their enormous tonnage could
beth's time, was called " Mirefleur," and not be launched forth on so shallow and
is supposed to be the " Tower of Mira- crowded a river ; and so, in course of
llori's," referred to in the celebrated time, Woolwich Dock-yard fell into dis-
romance of "Amadis de Gaul." use, and has now been transferred to
In Woolwich, over opposite, but few the War Department, and absorbed into
things of importance have ever hap- the domain of the Royal Arsenal. This
pened. The town is mean and poor in arsenal is the only one in the kingdom ;
appearance, straggling along the Thames all other military establishments at dock-
side in uncomely fashion. The inhabi- yards receive their supplies from Wool-
tants have a local witticism to the effect wich, and from Woolwich go forth all
that " more wealth passes through the stores for the iunumerous campaigns
Woolwich than through any other town of England in foreign lands. Ten
in the world." But, unfortunately, this thousand men are here, normal times, in
wealth is in the holds of ships which do constantly employed in buildings and

not stop there. The Royal Dock-yard yards, which cover three hundred and
extends along the river for more than a thirty-three acres ; and when England is
mile on the western side of the town, making a special number of

effort the
and, like that at Deptford, was founded workmen is nearly doubled. Here are
by Henry VIII. For at least three the heavy artillery for the land and the
hundred and fifty years the work of sea service, — the carriages, the shot and
preparing and maintaining England's su- shell, the cartridges, ammunition for
premacy at, sea went on almost uninter- small arms, torpedoes to protect the coast,
ruptedly in this commonplace and ordi- and everything for the trade of war,
nary-looking government establishment. which is a distinct branch of trade, a —
Old Pepys, who was a ,L
clerk of the trade to protect all other trades.
acts of the navy," has told us much of In the chief laboratory there are more
Woolwich, and the great " business and than live hundred machines of various
confusion " which prevailed there in his sorts in operation. There the Martini-
time. In the latter half of the last cen- Henry bullet is made at the rate of a
tury, and in the long wars at the begin- million a week, and, if need be, three
ning of the present one, Woolwich grew. millions weekly can be turned out. In
The national strength seemed drained the cap factory are machines producing
into it. Immense granite wharves and thirty thousand caps per hour; and the
docks, ranges of workshops and ware- gun factories, where the great thirty-
houses, sprang up ; and when steam and eight-ton guns are made, and where one
iron were brought into use in the navy, may see the eighty-one-ton gun, which,
with a charge of three hundred pounds, Bell, or at the great bronze gun captured
will send a shot of one thousand four in India in 1828, or at the Royal Artil-
hundred and sixty pounds with an initial leryMuseum. and the Military Academy,
velocity ofone thousand six hundred founded by George II. It was at this
and forty feet per second, are very ex- academy that the unlucky Prince Im-
tensive. The coiling machines, the fur- perial, the son of Napoleon III., finished
nace, with its forty-ton hammer, which his military education as a queen's
cost £50,000, with its steam-crane, scholar, and his school-fellows paraded
which can lift one hundred tons with atChiselhurst when his body was brought
its tongs, which weigh sixty tons, home from South Africa, and buried be-
and takes a dozen men to manoeu- side that of his father in the new home
vre, with the doors of its furnaces, of the Imperial exiles.
which look like the gates of infernal Hatton, the writer, in the early part
region, with its turnery, where the tubes of the last century, said that London
and breech-pieces of thirty-eight-ton with Westminster resembled the shape
guns are handled like toys, with its of a great whale, Westminster being the
rifle ordnance factory, its uniting fur- under-jaw ; St. James's Park, the mouth ;
naces, its pattern-room, in which exact Pall Mall, etc., northward, the upper-
duplicates of every kind of gun made in jaw ; Cock and Pie Fields, or the meet-
the arsenal are shown to those of whom ing of the seven streets, the eye ; the
the authorities are not suspicious, the rest, with and southward to
the city,
forges, with their steam-hammers, their Smithfield, the body and thence east- ;
travelling-cranes, their lathes and shears, ward to Limehouse, the tail " and it is ;
and hydro-pneumatic apparatus, all on probably," he adds, in. his quaint descrip-
a gigantic scale, —
all these form a daz- tion, " according to the proportion, the
zling galaxy of wonders, and confirm largestof towns, as the whale is of fishes."
the opinion of the visiting foreigner that From a point belowto Lon- Woolwich
order and foresight are the first qualities don Bridge the river is known as the
in the Anglo-Saxon mind. Port of London, a port six and a —
The stores, or Control Department, as half miles long, with a depth, at low
it is called in the military jargon, form a water, of even twelve feet at London
most extraordinary spectacle at Wool- Bridge. The tide of this Thames is
wich, and from these stores ten thousand quite remarkable. The water rises twice
troops can be at any moment supplied a day to the height of seveuteen feet at
with everything that is necessary for im- the Bridge, and, in extreme spring tides,
mediate entrance on a campaign. This to twenty-two feet. On Lower this
is not so astonishing now as compared Thames one finds perpetual amusement

with the matchless preparations for war in the contemplation of the docks, on
in Germany ; but at the time when it was which more than 8,000,000 sterling
first done, there was nothing like it, or have been expended in the present cent-
at all to compare with it, in all Europe. ury. Nearly all of them are on the
But we must not linger at Woolwich cast side of the town, and have been
longer than to peep at the garrison brought into existence by joint-stock
buildings and the Royal Artillery bar- companies. Altogether they cover about
racks, — one of the few imposing struct- eight hundred acres. The most exten-
Crimean
ures in the town, glance at the sive of them, the West India Docks,
memorial, the bronze statue of John begun in 1800 by William Pitt, were
finished in two years. Their urea, of in ISl'7, necessitated the displacement

three hundred acres, is surrounded by of nearly twelve thousand inhabitants
and the chief im-
walls five feet thick, and the pulling down of thirteen hun-
port dock is one hundred and seventy dred houses. The Surrey, the London,
yards long by one hundred and sixty- the East India, the Commercial Docks,
six wide. It is said that in the ware- all cover scores of acres and in one ;
houses of these docks one single warehouse in the London Docks

hundred and eighty thousand one hundred and twenty thousand chests
tens of g Is can lie stored at of tea can be stored atone time. These
once. In 1813 the gross are the great wine docks of London and ;
here from forty to forty-five thousand

pipes of wine are always in stock.
London Bridge is certainly one of the
most curious and remarkable spectacles
in Europe. Seen from oueof the bridges
above, upon the Thames, or from the
shore, it presents to the view an endless
procession of loaded vans, drays, car-
riages, carts, and omnibuses ; and, as one
cannot sec the wheels of these vehicles,
they seem to be moving by magic along
the stone coping of the great structure.
In the immediate neighborhood of this
artery of travel, spanning the stream,
are some of the noblest of the London
monuments. The Tower is not far
away the streets by the water side are
;
crowded with traffic to an extent the

description of which would seem almost
incredible. Blockades exist for hours;
draymen expend their vital force in
oaths innumerable. All in vain : the

avenues of London are too small for the
commerce which encumber them. Dord
was fond of wandering in this part of
GUARDIANS OF TTIK TOWER. London, and once told me how much he
enjoyed the stupefaction of the team-
revenue returned on a capital of £1,200,- sters, who, engaged ill a blockade, and
000 of this company was £449,000. The wedged in among other teams, could not
St. Catherine's Docks,
by the close prevent him from sketching them, but
frowning ancient Tower of London, and Hew into a passion and shook their fists
near (he centre of flic great commercial at him. This weird and curious quarter
metropolitan market, furnish an admir- of London especially struck the fancy
able instance of the resistless power of of the great French artist, who has left
commerce in making room for itself, on record most truthful impressions of

even in the most crowded centres. The the long and narrow alleys lined with high
creation of these docks, found necessary warehouses.
EUROPE JX STORM AXD CALM. M9
CHAPTER FIFTY-NINE.
Up River. — The Historic Thames. — The University Races. — Oxford anil Cambridge. — The Great Race
of 1869. — Harvard Oxford. — Putney. — Wimbledon. — Hammersmith. — Mortlake. — Thames
ve.
Tactics. — A Reminiscence of Charles Dickens. — His Powers as an After Dinner Speaker.
ABOVE Blackfriar's bridge the theatres as fine as those of Vienna or

Thames has been fringed within Paris; past the Whitehall Gardens and
the last twenty years by a stately em- the governmental quarters, and finishes
bankment which rivals the handsomest at Westminster Bridge, just beyond which
quays of Paris, Berlin, and Vienna. stand the Houses of Parliament. On
Ranged along this fine embankment are the other side of the Thames we have
the historic gardens of the Temple, with a Loudon, unimpressive, yet startling
their monumental new structures in in magnitude, a labyrinth of streets,
striking contrast with the older, dingy, all of which look very much alike,
and more interesting ones of Somerset with uudecorated house fronts, with
House, one of the finest monuments in shops which seem all cut out after
London, with huge masks of ocean and one pattern, with here and there vast
the eight rivers, the Thames, the Hurn- breweries, potteries, warehouses, and
ber, the Meuse, the Medway, the Dee, an occasional mansion rising out of the
the Tweed, the Tyue, and the Severn, surrounding mediocrity. Everywhere
on the quay stones of the river arches or one is oon fronted with the spectacle of
water gates. This Thames front of the daily struggle for food on the part
Somerset House is enriched with columns, of the very poor. Everywhere is the
and pilasters iu Venetian style. In same sharp contrast between the luxury
front is a terrace under which is the attendant upon wealth, and the crime
central water gate, and on the balustrade attendant upon long-coutinued poverty.
is a colossal figure of the Thames. This The great rambling structure over the
is one of the few monuments which were Thames opposite Westminster Palace
created iu the reign of George III., and attracts your attention ; it is a hospital.
in this handsome building the Inland Further up is Lambeth with the Arch-
Revenue has its home. Here the births, bishop's Palace, — Lambeth, a great, city
deaths, and marriages of the inhabitants by itself, confronted on the other side by
of England are inscribed. Just above Westminster, another vast community,
Somerset House is the Waterloo Bridge, and one, it is said, where more wretched-
which is led up to by Wellington street, ness and misery are concentrated than in
a fact which never fails to attract the any other part of London. Yet through
attention of Frenchmen visiting Loudon. it run avenues filled with luxurious I scs
The new embankment describes a stately and with splendid Out of it
hotels.
curve, and sweeps around past the new rises the great gray Abbey, and near by
handsome quarter where once stood are the breezy expanses of St. James's
Northumberland House, but now filled Park ; and in ten minutes one may walk
with mammoth hotels and clubs, and out of slums such as uo other capital in
Christendom can show, to the very gates onslaught made upon them by Charles
of Buckingham Palace, where, in the Reade, perhaps because so many cham-
season, the Queen receives, at what she is pions who were thought to he certain of
pleased to call a Drawing-room, those long and robust life have turned up as
ladies who have arrived at the felicity of confirmed invalids ofshaky tenure of
a court presentation. existence just after their University
Passing in review our journey up the course and boat triumphs were over.
Thames, we find that the first con- It is not difficult to understand why
spicuous object on the stream was Wool- the inhabitants of an island and the
wich, and midway between Woolwich greatest sailors in the world should be
the Arsenal, and Windsor the Palace, intensely interested in a contest of oars-
is the Parliament House, whence the men ; but the stranger is struck with the
policy of the nation radiates upwards to vehemence of opinion manifested on this
the sovereign and downwards to the engi- weighty topic even by cabmen, and huck-
neers and artisans, who put the national sters, and persons who might be supposed
will in force. But we will come back to confine their interest to subjects con-
to the Parliament later on, and meantime nected with their daily toil. Charles
continue our journey up the stream past Dickens reported that, shortly before the
the walls of gloomy Millbank Prison, international contest on the Thames in
past Chelsea, with its memories of Car- 18(J'J he heard one cabman confidentially
lvle, and its lows of unromantic-looking remark to another that he hoped the
Hammersmith,
houses, and on to Putney, Americans would win, but that he was
Mortlake, Richmond, Twickenham, and sure they would not. The cabman's con-
Hampton Court, picturesque and verdur- fident prophecy was correct the Ameri- :
ous resorts, which seem to belong to cans did not win, and undoubtedly
another world when compared with the because of the reasons which were
oozy marshes and mud-flats of the lower assigned by their English critics. There
stream. The stretch of river from Put- was never a race in the whole calendar
ney, or, more properly speaking, from of the annual contests which awakened
Hammersmith Bridge to Mortlake, is so much interest and national feeling as
speciallyrenowned as the annual contest this one, in which the trans-Atlantic
ground of the University crews and ; cousins had at first seemed to make so
the charms of this lied of stream have good afigure. Their training was watched
been recited in prose and verse by a with jealous scrutiny, and renowned
hundred authors. All classes of London boatmen like Harry Kelly indulged in
society are annually agitated over several daily mysterious bulletins, all of which
events which belong to the domain of seemed to point to the conclusion that
sport, and in other countries would the would be carried over sea.
laurels
interest only a certain elass. In the The old University of Harvard had sent
British Islands no one feels above attend- a goodly crew in the highest sense repre-
ing a horse-race, and aquatic sports are sentative of the whole country. There
distinctly within the range of aristocratic was even a man from far-off Oregon,
amusements. — a man who had but to appear on the
Of late years boating and boat-racing river to excite admiring cheers, for he
have ceased t<> be classed as healthful was a young Hercules. Trainers, writers,
sports, perhaps because of the furious and loungers spent a merry three weeks'
EUROPE IN STORM ANn CALM. 541
time at ancient Putney, walking over 1798, William Pitt, Prime Minister of
the breezy downs of Wimbledon, and England, stood up, pistol in hand, against
along the banks of the stream, drop- William Tiernev, a Member of Parlia-
ping in at boating-clubs, lunching in ment ; but no bloodshed ensued. Eleven
balconies overlooking reedy hills, or years later, same heath, two
ou this
following at respectful distance the flash- cabinet ministers fought a duel, and
ing oar blades of the practising crews. George Canning was shot and danger-
The International race was appointed ously wounded by Lord Castlereagh.
for the midsummer season, long after The scene at the water-side at Putney
the usual time for the University race, in the boating season is very animated.
and only a few weeks before the fashion- The boat-houses, simple in construction,
able world usually departs from the are thronged by smart young gentlemen in
capital. But, despite its lateness in the white and blue flannel, —
gentlemen whose
season, seemed as if all London, if
it faces bear evidence of prolonged study
not all England, had come forth to wit- or familiarity with affairs in the city, as
ness the contest. well as gentlemen who appear never to
The various points along the stream have undertaken anything at all beyond
on this University race-course are among the laborious task of amusing them-
the most interesting in the neighborhood selves. The inns are odd aud old to the
of London. Putney, itself a part of American eye, but they are quiet, com-
the manor of Wimbledon, was a favorite fortable and the tyrannous waiters, who
;
resort of Queen Elizabeth, where she tell you what you want, and even insist
visited old John Lacy, a wealthy mem- upon what you shall have, are service-
ber of the Clothworkers' Company of able when once one has learned their
her time and one of the last visits of
; peculiarities. This was the starting
her life was to Putney, where she dined place for the Thames regatta when it
on her way to Richmond, but two was in its prime, and now the Oxford
months before her death. At Putney the and Cambridge crews both take up their
parliamentary generals had their head- abodes at the famous Star and Gaiter,
quarters when Charles I. was at Hamp- or at a private house, while undergoing
ton Court. Cromwell long had his what is called their " coaching." For
abode in a house in Putney, although ten days before the celebrated race, and
the exact site of the edifice is unknown for a day or two afterwards, Putney is
to-day. Just across the stream is Ful- transformed into a kind of fair. Ambu-
ham, with a noble lawn shaded by mag- lating negro minstrels, so called, being
nificent trees, and a bishop's residence merely cockney singers witli their faces
not far away. At Putney, too, Gibbon blackened, indulge in sentimental ditties,
was born, in 1737, and the house in after which they demand sixpences and
which the great historian spent his youth pennies from every passer-by. The
and a portion of his mature life was classic game of Aunt Sally is in full
afterwards the residence of the cele- swing, and boating parties, composed of
brated traveller, Robert Wood, author of ambitious young gentlemen who only
the "Ruins of Palmyra." At Putney know how to catch " crabs," and ros} -
-
Heath, in 1652, occurred the famous faeed damsels who are afraid of the
duel between Lord Chandos and Colonel water, are innumerable. Then, on the
Henry Compton ; and there, too, in May, great day, all London proceeds to
542 EUROPE IN STORM AMD CALM.
on house-roofs, on bridges,
install itself composing the lines about winter while
on towpaths, in every nook and corner looking on the frozen Thames and the
whence a glimpse of the race can he country round about, coveted with snow.
obtained, and indulges in unrestrained From the window out of which the old
excitement during the few minutes of poet looked there is a fine view of the
the struggle. Colors are worn as proudly long reach of the Thames across Chis-
as in the days of York and Lancaster, wiek Eyot far away. In the parish
and the return to the centre of the town church, is amonument to Lord Sheffield,
by every imaginable sort of craft on the Earl <>f Mulgrave, who was tiie com-
river, by every vehicle, from an aristo- mander of a squadron against the Span-
cratic drag to an humble omnibus, is not ish Armada, and was knighted by Queen
so indecorous as the return from the Elizabeth for his services. In Ham-
Derby, but is characterized by almost as mersmith, once stood the celebrated
much noise and excitement. Brandenburg House, now demolished.
was from a point just below Ham-
It It was built by Sir Nicholas Crispe, in
mersmith bridge that the International the reign of Charles I., and was one of
race was started, and that the Harvard the most splendid of English resiliences
crew set off with such a tremendously even in that time of general splendor.
rapid stroke that those unfamiliar with Fairfax made this house his head-quar-
Thames tactics at, once accorded them ters in 1 fit 7, and many years after the
the victory. Hut the old boatmen and house was given to Margaret Hughes, a
the experienced habituds of the race pretty actress, of whom Pepys tells us
shook their heads, and said that that indiscreetly that " she was a mighty
stroke would not win. It was not far pretty woman, but not modest." It was
from winning, despite its bad form; hut in Brandenburg House thai Queen Caro-
the knowledge of the course and the line, the wife of George IV.. rested dur-
peculiar slow and steady stroke of the ing her trial in the House of Lords and ;
Oxfords was destined to win. England there, too, she died, in 1821. It was
put all its national pride into one great shortly after her death that the house
shout on that bright afternoon when the was pulled down.
Oxfords came ahead at Mortlake,
in It is not far from Putney to Wimble-
and there could have been no doubt, if don, where the great annual contests of
any had existed before, after that shout the riflemen of Great Britain are held.
was heard, that, in matters of rivalry, The encampment of these marksmen
England considers Americans as for- lasts for several days during the summer
eigners quite as much as if there were season, and is visited daily by thousands
a total difference of language and of of people from the centre of London.
manners, as in the case of the French or A friendly rivalry between
is kept up
the Germans. the teams of the north and south,
rifle
Hammersmith is celebrated for the the British, the Scotch, and the Irish
siteof the old Dove coffee-house, which competing witheach other in skill, and the
was renowned in the last century, and whole occasion reminds an American of
which is now a little inn called the an old-fashioned
training-day. Some-
Doves. A room overlooking the river times,when the season is rainy, the
is still pointed out as the place where mushroom booths and buildings of the
Thomson wrote part of, his " Seasons," encampment are but pour shelters, and
the riflemen pass a miserable week. resque with swans' nests, was the point
Now and then royalty lends its prestige at which the International boat-race
to the matches, which are controlled between Harvard and Oxford was prac-
with the greatest rigor, and the reports tically decided. It was there that the
of which attract great attention in all struggle was the sternest, and that the
parts of the kingdom. Oxford tactics definitely asserted them-
Among other interesting points along selves. At Chiswick lived Pope before
the University race-course his retirement to Twickenham, and in
the British .Museum there are many let-
ters addressed to " Mr. Pope, in his
house in New Buildings, Chiswick."
There also lived Rousseau when he
was visiting England. The author of
Of tin' " Nouvelle Heloise " boarded at
a small green-grocer's shop in the

town, and a. writer of the time tells
us that
»t and
lie used
listen to the talk of the
to ;sit in the shop
custom-
ers, thus learning the Enar-
BOAT-RACE ON THE THAMES.
on the Thames, Chiswick is of first-rate. lish language. Charles Holland, the

Here is the famous villa of the Duke of celebrated comedian, was also born at
Devonshire and here Hogarth's house is
; Chiswick, and was buried from the
still shown, and his tomb is hard by his church there. He was the son of a
old residence. Chiswick Hall was once baker, and after the funeral Foote said,
the residence of the masters of West- "We have just shoved the little baker
minster, and is better known in these into his oven."
days as the Chiswick Press, from which The end of the race-course, Mortlake,
such noble specimens of English typog- is but a short distance to the east of
raphy have been sent forth. The Chis- Richmond, and was an old residence of
wick Ait or P^yot, an osier bed, pictu- the Archbishops of Canterbury. There,
Anselm celebrated the famous Whitsun- said of Charles Dickens that he was the
tide of 1099, and tliere, one of the arch- prince of after-dinner speakers ; but
bishops died of grief, after his excom- never did he distinguish himself with
munication by Pope John XXI. There, more charm than on this occasion, when
too, pictorial tapestry was first woven in he was sorely puzzled what to say.
England, Sir Francis Crane having es- Dickens was then beginning to show
tablished works there in rivalry with the signs of the extreme fatigue which he
royal tapestry works in France. Many had undergone in his later years, but he
Crane and Van Dyck were
portraits of knew how to summon, despite physical
wrought at Mortlake in tapestry, and weariness, the vivacity which, added to
Charles I. was munificent in his patron- his humor and felicity of diction, made
age of this establishment. The Mort- him irresistible.
lake copies in tapestry of the Raphael When he arose to begin the speech of
cartoons are still to be met with in Eng- the evening, at the close of this banquet,
land. Under the floor of the church in he stood as if completely lost and abashed
Mortlake lies Dr. Dee, the most renowned for some two minutes, during which
of English astrologers; and there, too, people began to whisper and to gossip,
isburied Partridge, the almanac-maker, wondering what might be the cause of
whose burial Steele described in the this strange hesitation. But, presently
" Tatler " and in the same church lies
; commencing in a low voice, he recited a
Phillips, the fellow-actor of Shakespeare, simple anecdote concerning the r6le of
who left, as one of his bequests, a thirty- Harvard in the war in America.
great civil
shilling piece in gold to the immortal He Harvard Memo-

told the story of the
poet. rial, and before he had spoken a dozen
Shortly after the International boat- sentences, he had not only awakened the
race, in 1869, the defeated Harvard crew greatest sympathy but the mostprofound
was entertained by one of the aristocratic interest with and in the guests of the
London rowing-clubs at a grand dinner evening. From the pathos of the sacri-
at the Crystal Palace, at Sydenham. fices of the children of the great Univer-
This Crystal Palace, which was built out sity during the war, to sparkling and half-
of materials taken from the edifice of the satirical comments on the uselessness of
noted World's Fair of 1851, crowns the sending the nervous American into the
summit of pretty Sydenham hill, not far moist English climate to grapple with the
from London, and contains within its sinewy sons of Albion, was a leap which
roomy corridors a series of Egyptian, Dickens made with dexterity and safety ;
Greek, Spanish, Assyrian, Byzantine, and and when he sat down he bad not
mediaeval courts illustrative of archi- only apologized for the defeat of the
tecture, as well as numerous museums, Americans as any one of them-
well as
theatres, aquariums, aviaries, and other selves could have done it, but he had
curiosities calculate! to strike the public given, in complete and admirable fashion, a
fancy. In one of its stately dining-rooms, little glimpse of the university life beyond
overlooking the beautiful gardens, the the sea. — a glimpse which otherwise the
dinner of the conquerors was given to the English public would not have obtained.
conquered, and a goodly company of Eng- The homage and deference paid to Dick-
lish celebrities gathered to soften the ens, as a master in his art, and one of
defeat of the strangers. It has often been the foremost writers of his time, was
well shown on this evening, when Eng- Great Seal. "Her entertainment for
lishmen of far wider accomplishments that meal was great, and exceedingly
than his cheerfully took second place, costly. At her first lighting, she had a
bowing before the celebrity which had tine fanne, with a handle garnisht with
been won by the exercise for a quarter diamonds. When she was in the middle
of a century of one of the most dazzling way between the garden gate and the
and remarkable talents of the epoch. Only house, there came running towards her
a year later, Dickens lay in Westminster one with a nosegay in his hand, and deliv-
Abbey, and of all the sorrowful messages ered yt unto her with a short, well-
sent over sea, there were none more pened speech. Yt had in yt a very rich
sincere than those which came from the Jewell, with many pendants of unfirl'd
children of old Harvard. diamonds, valewed £400 at least.
at
Beyond this sinuous course devoted to After dinner, in the privey chamber, he
the water-sports, the Thames bends gave her a fair pair of virginals. In her
away into pretty flats, fringed with wil- bedchamber, he presented her with a
lows and with green lawns, where, in gown and juppin, which things were
summer time, the artist moors his house- pleasing to her Ilignes ; and, to grace
boat, or the privileged sportsman stalks his lordship the more, she of herself
abroad with his gun. Far away is the took from him a salt, a spoone, and a
great botanical establishment at Kew forcke of faire agatte."
Gardens, fringed round about with Kew has been the residence of innu-
handsome towns and villas, which look merable celebrities. There Sir William
seductive from a distance, but are, when Chambers long had charge of the forma-
closely examined, proved to be built in tion of the botanical garden and in ;
flimsiest fashion. All London, indeed, 176f> he published an account of the

is hemmed and carelessly
with loosely various temples and ornamental build-
built houses, which rent for modest ings which he hail erected in them.
sums, but which are soon out of repair. George III. for a long time lived at Kew
Building is a gigantic speculation, dear House, and appears to have been very
to the heart of the London capitalist, much the slave of his servants, for it is
but it has brought sorrow to thousands recorded of him that, after the death of
of moneyed men. who have desired too his head-gardener, he made a personal
large returns for their reckless expendi- visit to the under-gardener, and in a
ture. tone of much gratification said, " Brown
Kew lias a rather ugly-looking church, is dead now you and I can do what we
:
in which the organ, long used by Handel, please here 1 ." After George III. 's death,
still makes music. In the church-yard until the accession of the present Queen,
lies the great Gainsborough, landscape Kew was apparently neglected. In 1840,
and portrait painter, and there formerly the gardens were adopted as national :i
stood Suffolk House, the residence of establishment, and, under the able man-
one of the great Dukes of Suffolk. An agement of the present directors, the
old chronicle tells us that, in 1595, botanical establishment has become the
Queen Elizabeth dined at Kew with Sir richest, if not the most beautiful, in all
John Puckei'ing, Lord Keeper of the Europe.

;
CHAPTER SIXTY.
Richmond and its Romance. — Richmond Hill. — —
The " Star and Garter." The Richmond Theatre. The —
Thames Valley. —
Twickenham. —
The Orleans Exiles, and Their English Home. Strawberry —
Hill. —
Hampton 'ourt. ( —
Wolsey and Cromwell. —
The Royal Residence. Windsor and Its Origin. —
more than eight miles " Never," says the author, " was heard
IT froma
is little
Hyde Park corner to Rich- a more exquisite speech. It flowed like
mond ; but the transition is as great as a gentle and translucent stream : and, as
if hundred miles.
the distance were five in the second portion, he addressed
The aspect of gloom and severity which Alexander directly, representing the
reigns in the metropolis the greater part greatness and the difficulty of the charge
of the year is entirely left behind, and confided to him, the latter at first
one has before him, on Richmond Hill, covered his face from emotion; then
a vast and noble prospect of parks and arose and returned thanks with dignity
winding rivers, of stately trees, pretty as well as with feeling. Subsequently
bowers, and comfortable villas. we drove back town in the clearest
to
There is nothing exactly like the view starlight, Gladstone continuing with
from Richmond Hill to be found in any unabated animation to pour forth har-
other part of Europe. The mellowness monious thoughts in melodious tone."
of the landscape, with its prolusion of Richmond is said to have got its
beautiful elms, is very striking; the present name by command of Henry
atmospheric effects are soft, and lend a VII., who, before the battle of Bosworth,
kind of enchantment to the great vista was Earl of Richmond in Yorkshire
of the park.Overlooking the most but its old name shows that it was held
beautiful section of this pleasure ground in high esteem before the tenth century,
is the famous " Star and Garter" Hotel, for the splendor of its views and the
renowned in the annals of gastronomy, charm of its great forests. It was
and the scenes of many famous reunions called Syenes, which supposed to be a
is
of statesmen, and of the literary and corruption of the German Schon. There
artistic guilds. Mr. Barnett Smith, in Edward I. had a country house Edward :
his "Life of Gladstone," tells us of a III. died in the palace there : Richard II.
speech made by the Premier when he lived in Richmond in the early years of
was a much younger man, at the " Star his reign : there his first wife Ann of
and Garter," and of the phenomenal Bohemia died, whereupon In 1
cursed the
impression which the eloquence of the place, and had the palace torn down.
statesman, afterwards to be so cele- Then had it rebuilt, and
Henry V.
brated, then produced. It was on the founded several " Houses of Religion."
occasion of the visit of the Emperor of Early in 1492. Henry VII. held a grand
Russia to England, and at his dinner tournament at Richmond, "upon the
Mr. Gladstone proposed the toast of the green without the gate of the said
" Prosperity of the Church of S(. James manor." There Philip I., King of Cas-
in Jerusalem, and of her first bishop." tile, stayed for three months while the
- a
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. Ml

negotiations for his marriage with the fashion to go out of town at the end of
Lady Margaret were in progress and ; the week that people do go, though it be
there the Spanish monarch was enter- only into another town."
tained with great magnificence, and many Richmond Lodge was a favorite abode
notable feats of arms took place at the of Caroline, wife of George II., and
tournaments held in his honor. there she had costlier buildings than had
Henry VIII. held a series of splendid been previously seen England, erected
in
entertainments at Richmond, and there on a gigantic scale. There she created

Cardinal Wolsey came now and then to a "hermitage," a "Merlin's cave," a
reside, by permission of the King, after "grotto," a dairy, and a menagerie,
he had presented his newly-erected palace the interior of the "hermitage" was
of Hampton Court to Henry. All ornamented with busts of Newton and
through the succeeding centuries Rich- Locke; and the presiding genius of
mond appears to have been a favorite the locality was Robert Boyle, his head
resort for royalty. James I., in 1G10, encircled with a halo of gilded rays.
gave Richmond to his son, Prince Henry. George III., who had
sympathy little
In 1647 the Parliament ordered the with the improvements made by Queen
palace to be made read}' for the recep- Caroline, had them all swept away, and,
tion of the King, but Charles refused to in a lit of spite, destroyed the terrace
go there, contenting himself with an which she had built along the river, —
occasional hunting excursion in the then terrace which was said to be, at that
new park. At the time of the restora- time, the finest in Europe.
tion the palace was dismantled, and the Beyond the entrance of the gales of
accounts of the time say that "several the Richmond Park, on Richmond Hill,
boat-loads of rich and curious effigies, is the prospect of which old Thomson
formerly belonging to Charles I., but wrote somewhat conventional verse
in his
since alienated," were taken from Rich- a century and a half'ago. Thomson and
mond to Whitehall in 1660. Thus, more Turner have both celebrated the beauti-
than a century before the great French ful landscape, and, if they could come-
Revolution, the English did exactly for back now, would be shocked to
to earth
Richmond what the French were destined see that the wavy ocean of tree-tops has
to do for Marly, the old palace in which been intruded upon here and there by
Louis XIV. had spent his declining years. prosaic lines of house-fronts. The view
Richmond Palace is said to have up the great valley of the Thames from
covered an area of more than ten acres. Richmond Hill is thus described by Mr.
In the middle of the eighteenth century Thorne in his charming work on the en-
" Richmond Green" was one of the most virons of London: "A thickly-wooded
fashionable of suburban resorts, and tract, relieved by open meadows and
there the fine gentlemen of the period gentle undulations, where the eye rests
came to play whist at the clubs on Satur- always on the tranquil surface of the
days and Sundays. " You will naturally river, with its eyots, skiffs, and swal-
ask," says one of the chroniclers of that lows and the beach-clad hills of Buck-
;
time, " why they cannot play at whist inghamshire, the Surrey heaths and
in London on these two days as well as downs, and the Berkshire heights, over
on the other live. Indeed, I cannot tell which dimly visible through a veil of
you, except that it is so established a purple haze —
54<S EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
i
" Majestic Windsor lifts his princely brow.' (low of his Richmond villa. Mrs. Fitz-
herbert lived on Richmond Hill when
" '
Hampton House' with the elm- she won the affections of the Prince of
groves and avenues of elm-walks on Wales, who afterwards became George
one side of the river, and on (lie other IV. At the noted " Queensberry House"
the dark massive forms of Hampton there was a brilliant coterie for many
Court, and the long chestnut-avenues of years, until the Duke of Queensberry
Bushey Park, are as prominent and effec- grew tired of his country-seat, where he
five features in the landscape as when lie had entertained Pitt, Chatham, the
Thomson wrote. But the 'raptured Duchess of Gordon, and other celebri-
eve exulting '
looks from the terrace in time
ties of the anil one day he left it ;
vain for huge Augusta' or the sister

' •
was nothing
forever, saying that there
hills which skirt her plain,' or even to make so much
Thames, and of in the
'lofty Harrow,' though the lights may that he "was quite weary of it. and
be made out from the garden terrace its tlow, flow, flow, always the same."
of the Star and Garter, and in clear The neighborhood is filled with splen-
weather from some part or other of the did mansions, each one of which has
park. The view is one of a wide exits history and legend, too long to re-
pause of quiet, cultivated scenery. Its cite here.
charm is not dependent on the hour or The Richmond Theatre has been la-
the season. If may receive an added mous for more than two centuries and a
grace or assume a nobler beauty at cer- half. The present edifice was built by
tain seasons, or in any exceptional at- Garrick, and there Garrick, Liston, Mrs.
mospheric phenomena : Imt it is alike Siddons, Mrs. Jordan, and Charles
exquisite, seen, as we have seen ii. in Matthews often appeared. CharlesMat-
tlic earliest dawn or broad daylight. thews the elder made his -'first, appear-
when bathed in the crimson glory of a ance on any stage" at Richmond; and
sinking sun, or lit by a full or waning there Edmund Kean died, in a small
moon; in the first freshness of the room in a house attached to the theatre,
spring, the full summer, the
lealincss of Kean had. in his latest years, played
sober gold of autumn, or the sombre many a time to " a beggarly accounl of
depth of advancing winter." empty benches."
At the Star and Garter Hotel Lou- II is a. pleasant walk through these in-
ks Philippe staved for several months tensely interesting regions, from Rich-
after his flight from Paris ; there Napo- mond to Twickenham, a village prettily
Icon III.,when he was a struggling placed on the Thames, between the high
prince, now and then had apartments, ground of Strawberry Hill and a range
when he had a windfall of money. The of verdant meadows Lacked by Rich-
famous " Four-in-Hand Chili" used to nioud and Park, on the other side of
1 1 ill
drivedown and dine there every Sunday, the river. Horace Walpole was the
and nearby Sir Joshua Reynolds gave his genius of this locality, ami has done
pleasant little dinner parties in the sun- more than any one else to make Twick-
shine, gathering about him the most cnhani celebrated. It is but a small
eminent of his admirers. One of the hamlet, once owned by the monks of
few landscapes which Reynolds painted Canterbury, hut, when the monasteries
was a view from the drawing-room win- were suppressed, it was annexed to
Hampton Court, aud Charles I. gave it Almost every travelled American has
to his Queen. Then it was seized by the visited Strawberry Hill, where Horace
Parliament, and, after many changes of Walpole had his famous Gothic Castle,
ownership, finally reverted to the ci'own. from which he used to indite the biting
Twickenham is chiefly interesting as a epistles which became classics in Eng-
favorite resort for exiles from the conti- lish and not far away lived Lady Mary
;
nent during this century. Their Louis Wortley Montagu, once Tope's fast
Philippe came in 1800, when he was friend, but later on his bitter enemy.
Duke of Orleans, with his two brothers Charles Dickens lived in Twickenham
whom he had met in London for the first Park in 1838, and there Thackeray,
time since their exile from France after Douglas Jerrold, Landseer, Stanfield,
the great revolution. He took up his and Maclise, had. according to the testi-
abode there, and their residence came to mony of John Foster. •• many friendly
be known as " Orleans House." Des- days " together.

tiny luc night Louis Philippe back to it Further up stream lies Hampton Court
again when he was a second time an ex- and the village of Hampton, from which
ile, half a century after his first visit. is a pleasant view of the long reaches of
The old king bought it in 18")2, of the Thames, with their lines of little
Lord Kilmorey, who went to live near islands or eyots, and the broad meadows
by, while the present Due d'Auniale took on either hand, the elms of Bushey Park,
up his residence in Orleans House, and the towers and prcttih -massed roofs of
there held, until after 1870, when he re- Kingston, and the wooded hills of Sur-
turned to France, a kind of literary rey. At Hampton proper
"Garrick is
court. His spacious picture-gallery, his Villa," which, in Garrick's time, and
superb collection of ancient and modern when he came frequently there, was
pictures and drawings, miniatures, enam- known as Hampton House. There the
els, MSS., and his exquisite library, noted actor built an ambitious Corin-
were celebrated throughout Europe. thian portico, and had handsome
Gradually all the members of tin- ex- grounds laid out. On the lawn lie
iled family grouped themselves at erected a Grecian temple, in which he

Twickenham. The Comtede Paris lived shrined a statue of Shakespeare, for
in York House, the Prince de Joinville which it is said lie stood as model, and
at Mount Lebanon, and the Due de Ne- so enraged the sculptor by his caprices
mours at Bushey Hill. Twickenham was during his sitting for the work, that the
tin' head-quarters of Orleans polities, and artist threatened to give up the commis-
so great was its prestige in the eyes of sion. There Garrick was fond of giving
the Bourbons that Don Carlos of Spain dinner and garden parties and festivals
went to live there in 1876, after his unat night,when his grounds were lighted
successful campaigns in the Carlist cause by colored lights. Thither came the
among the Basques in the Pyrenees. Spanish minister of the time, the Duke
Tope's villa, at Twickenham, is also cele- of Grafton, Lord and Lady Rochford,
brated. There the little poet resided Lady Iloldei ness. and Horace Walpole.
until his death in 1744, and there he Old Johnson even penetrated to Hampton
worked in his garden in the intervals of House, anil when Garrick asked him how
verse-making and the entertainment of lie liked it, "It is the leaving of such
said,
his friends. places that makes a death-bed terrible."
;
Hampton Court;, much visited by Claypole, died. History tells us that the
cockneys and tourists, is a kind of gen- great Protector had an organ taken away
teel asylum for the widows of distin- from Magdalen College, Oxford, and set
guished servants of the crown In fact, . up in the great gallery at Hampton Court.
both Hampton Court and Kew Palace arc The first and second Georges liked the
occupied by aristocratic pensioners, who palace and lived there; but, after their
have rooms or suites of rooms assigned time, the state apartments and grounds
them Her Majesty. Old
at the hands of were much neglected. Few visitors came
Cardinal Wolsey, when he bought to see them ; but now hundreds of thou-
Hamilton Court, was at the height of sands come yearly to the palace and the
his power and it is said that, expect-
; park. The tapestries, of which there
ing still greater honors, he meant to are many very beautiful ones, arc the
make there one of the finest palaces in chief curiosities. The pictures are nu-
Europe. The structures which he raised merous and poor. In what is called the
at Hampton were the cause of the envy " Presence Chamber," there are the cele-
which finally cost him his position, and brated •• Hampton Court Beauties," a
led him to regret his high ambition. famous series of portraits of the ladies
After a noble entertainment which Wol- of the court of William and Mary,
sey gave at Hampton to the French am- familiar in engraving to all the world.
bassador in 1527, King Henry himself Put the especial jewel of the upper
felt envious, and asked Wolsey why he Thames region, and the one most sacred
had built so costly a house. in the English eye, because it is the
" To show how noble a palace a subject residence of the Queen, is Windsor, of
may offer to his sovereign," said the which Dean Swift wrote to Stella., " that
Cardinal, biting and handing

his lips, itwas in a delicious situation, but that
over the splendid establishment to His the town was scoundrel." Modern
Majesty, who accepted it with alacrity. Windsor town has nothing of especial
It was at Hamilton Court that Henry interest in it. Its streets look prosaic
had til*- first news of the death of Wol- and uninviting enough ; but here and
sey. Thither Princess Elizabeth was there is an ancient inn like the " Garter,"
summoned from Woodstock, and urged which boasts in its records of the patron-
to abjure Protestantism and there the
; age of old Sir John Fal-
Pepvs and of
great council of the Lords was sum- staff. Not many years ago the houses
moned by Elizabeth, in 1568, to consider of Mistress Page and of Master Ford
the accusations against Mary Queen of were still pointed out ; but they have
Scots, respecting the murder of Darnley. now been swept away, and but few
There .lames I. and Charles I. succes- memorials of the " Merry Wives of
sively lived,and there Charles sought Windsor" remain.
refuge with his Queen from the tumult The "Castle" is noble and imposing.
in London, and there, in 1047, he was a Chief of the royal palaces, which are
prisoner. few in number, it is also the chief bv
Hampton Court has echoed to the foot- the multitude of interesting associations
steps of Oliver Cromwell, who was very grouped about it. It has been for seven
fond of the palace, and came often to it hundred years a royal residence, the
and there one of his daughters was mar- scene of beautiful pageants, of courtly
ried, and his favorite daughter, Lady assemblages, of many crimes and cele-
brated political events. Viewed from him sign the Great Charter and later on
;
the park it springs with incomparable the barons besieged the Castle, but it
grace and majesty from the eminence held firm against them. Under Henry
overlooking the broad valley <>f the III. Windsor was the finest royal dwell-
Thames, and the little town seems to ing in Europe. There Edward I. and
nestle confidingly at its feet. Of course Edward II. held court and councils, gave
its origin is attributed to " William the audiences, had jousts and tournaments ;
Conqueror," as it is necessary that the there Edward III., Edward of Windsor,

sovereign's abode should be intimately as he was called by the older historians,
connected with the beginning of the pres- lived long and happily and he it was
;
ent aristocracy in England. It is said who " Hound Tower," the most
built the
that the Conqueror got the manor by striking feature of the castle. Here he
exchange from the Abbot of West- held his famous " Hound Table," which
minster, and that he then made Windsor he had conceived the fancy of rees-
a royal residence. " But," says Tborne, tablishing in imitation of Arthur and his
" there is no evidence that bis works loyal knights; and here, in 1344, was
were more than additions to already ex- inaugurated the newly founded "Order
isting buildings." of the Carter." On this occasion knights
Under "William Rufus, Windsor Castle from every part of Europe flocked up to
was both a prison and a palace, and Windsor, and the huntings and hawk-
there the Earl of Northumberland was ings, the banquets and dances, and the
long confined. Henry I. held his court tournaments lasted for many weeks. In
at Windsor and there sum-
in 1106, the bright pages of old Froissart, the
moned the nobles of England and those sprightly chronicler, there are many de-
of Normandy. There Henry II. lived scriptions of the festivals at Windsor on
and lavished money on the vineyards St. George's Day, when the knights,
which then flourished in the neighbor- with the king at their head, proceeded to
hood. Erom Windsor Castle King John the chapel where the rites of installa-
set out to meet the barons who made tion were performed.
—
CHAPTER SIXTY-ONE.
English Royalty. The Court. — — Memorials of Windsor. — St™ George's Chapel. — The Park at Windsor.
—
The Royal Palaces. — Drawing-Rooms at Buckingham Palace. — Memorials of Buckingham
Palai e. —
Ij ENGLAND is very far from having a some pleasing message. The humblest
J A court in tin' sense that the word is railway or steamship servant wounded in
understood in( J-ermanyor even in Austria. an accident, the soldier stretched out on
M. Philippe Daryl, in his (.lever book some tar off plain, or the general who
on public life in England, tells us that has just, carried through some great
no court proper is to be found in that enterprise in the interest of that trade
country, and that if there be one at all which always follows just behind the
it only exists on paper. " The alma- army — all look to Windsor for their
nach," he says, " gives us a pompous reward. In France, the different min-
list of officials, a lord chamberlain, a isters intervene between the chief of
vice-chamberlain, a lord steward, a mas- State and the recipient of favor or
ter of the horse and a master of the honors, but in England
messages the
hounds, a mistress of the robes, a dean often come so direct that they seem to
of the Chapel Royal, physicians and bring the citizen into closest relation
surgeons in ordinary, controllers, treas- with that majesty for which he has such
urers, equerries, gentlemen in waiting, profound respect. Furthermore, al-
the grooms of the chamber, a poet though a court may not be kept up in
laureate, pages, women of the bed the pompous and ornate fashion of
chamber, maids of honor, etc. Every- Berlin at all times at Windsor, there is
one of these draws a salary and partakes a court circle which cannot lie broken
generally of the fortunes of the cabinet; into, one which is always maintained
but the duties are practically sinecures, above and outside the sphere of ordi-
and, except on rare occasions, neither nary conventional society, and which
regular service nor regular attendance is has its expression in the levees or draw-
demanded. They recall in nothing the ing-rooms in the parlors of Buckingham
traditions of Louis XIV.'' Doubtless Palace or St. James.
this is in some measure true ;
yet there Queen Victoria has associated her
is none the less the strictest of court name with Windsor almost as closely as
etiquettes kept up at Windsor, and it is that of any of her predecessors. Eliza-
accounted the highest honor which a beth was delighted with Windsor Castle,
distinguished civilian can receive to be and had a tine gallery ami banqueting
asked to the Castle and presented to house built there as well as many gar-
the reigning sovereign, and possibly be dens laid out. all of which have long ago
asked to stay to dinner. As for the been swept from existence. She it was
military people of distinction, they all who built the north terrace, and in her
look forward to the time when they shall new gallery in the latest years of the six-
get from the august resident therein teenth century, Master William Shake-
comedy of "'The Merry

speare's sprightly incuts, its images, and its costly fittings,
Wives of Windsor" was played by Her and the soldiers of the Parliament hunted
Majesty's command, the poet himself the deer in the royal park and forest.
directing the rehearsals and the first To Windsor the body of Charles I. was
performance. A few years later Ben brought, shortly after his execution, and
QUEEN VICTORIA.
From Photograph l>y \. Bassano, "M Bond street, London.
Jonson's "Music of the Gipsies" was was earned, on the 9th of February,
presented at Windsor, having previously 1C49, from the great hall, where Charles
been played before King James on two had so often held stately levees, t<> St.
occasions. When the Parliamentary George's Chapel, where it was buried
Generals came in they stripped St. without bell or book.
George's Chapel of its plate, its vest- History tells us that Charles II. took
the sum of £70,000 sterling, voted centre of the chapel stands the sarcoph-
after the Restoration, for the removal agus of the Prince, bearing a recum-
of the body of Charles I. to a fitting bent, statue, habited in a suit of armor.
sepulchre ; but that noble monarch The body of the good Prince does not
never any accouut of the
rendered repose here, but in the Royal Mausoleum,
money. Under George III. there was a at Frogmore.
veritable court at Windsor, and it used That portion of Windsor in which the
to assemble on Sunday afternoons on the Queen resides is not very often open to
terrace to listen to the music of the mili- the public, for the Queen spends the
tary bands, the King with the Queen, the greater portion of her time at Windsor,
children, and the royal suite promenad- visiting her castle in the Northern High-
ing up and down a lane composed of his lands, and simple, but pretty Osborne
loyal subjects, who bowed low as he House, on the shores of the Isle of
passed them. Wight, only for comparatively brief
Under tin' reign of the present Queen periods. The privateof the Queen
life
greal improvements have been made at is described as simple marked degree,

in
Windsor. The Prince Consort was very made up of the same quiet and refined
fund of the old building, and suggested pleasures which lill the life of any lady
most of the changes, among which are of distinction, interspersed, however,
the restoration of the lower ward, that of by seasons of hard work for the Queen ;
St. George's chapel, the Wolsey chapel, is not a queen in vain, and has papers
which is a kind of memorial of the Prince manifold to sign, and in troublous times
Consort himself, and many of the changes many complaints to hear and questions
in the upper ward, theentrance hall, and to ask. She has a special wire from the
the state staircase. Prince Albert's im- Houses of Parliament to Windsor, and
provements were very skilful, and have when she is at the Castle knows all that
added immensely to the beauty of the line is going on a very short time after it
range of buildings, which stretches fifteen occurs. At any hour of the night <>r
hundred feet from east to west along the day she ma}' read from the slip of paper
high table-land, around which, on its which lolls out from the machine the
western cud, the Thames makes a great story of the debates, the accidents, and
sweep. incidents which have occurred in the
St. George's chapel is often enough kingdom. All bills, orders in council,
described in our days, as it is the scene etc., are drawn up in her name, according
of christenings, marriages, and funerals to the pleasant formula which assumes
in the very numerous blanches of the that she governs as well as reigns. She
royal family. It is a noble burial-place has to attend to the post every day or
of kings, and in its vaults lie Henry VIII., two, with as much care as if she were
.lane Seymour, Charles I., George III , the head of a commercial establish-
George IV., William IV., Queens Char- ment. Foreign despatches, proclama-
lotte and Adelaide, and many lesser dig- tions, ratifications, decrees, letters-patent,
nitaries. On the Albert Memorial chapel, orders for execution, — all these great
or the Tomb House, as it was formerly and small affairs require the " Victoria
called, the Queen has expended large R." before they are legal. " In sum-
sums in restoration or decoration, in mer," M. Daryl tells us, "she signs
memory of her husband ; and in the these papers, sealed in a pretty tent
pitched on the lawn at Balmoral." We noted personages ; the Plate room, which
are told that she is very fond of letter- contains the nautilus cup of Benvenuto
writing, and keeps up an enormous cor- Cellini ; the Library, the Raphael cabi-
respondence with her German relatives. net, — these are not exceeded in magnifi-
The Audience chamber at Windsor is cence and interest even by the superb
decorated with Verrio's conventional ducal residences in England. Many of
ceilings, but the walls are hung with the the dukes have palaces which compare
richest tapestry from the Gobelins, and very favorably, however, with the other
illustrate the life of Esther. Here, too, royal abodes.
are many portraits of members of the Miles away to the south of the town
English royal family, and a noble picture stretches Windsor's great park, full of
of Mary Queen of Scots. In the Yan- the noblest and wildest forest scenery,
•dyck room are no less than twenty-two breezy slopes, over which herds of deer
portraits by the celebrated painter and ; wander, great avenues with the boughs
in the Queen's state drawing-room are of trees interlocked above, cool glades
pictures of the different Georges. The through which little brooklets glide, and
fondness of the English for recording throughout the whole an atmosphere of
the glory of their Continental campaigns refined age and calm. Here and there
is illustrated in the Waterloo chamber, the ancient elms are decaying and have
which is a fine hall used for state ban- fallen ; but the forest keepers take ten-
quets. Around this hall are ranged the derest care of them. Many of the trees
pictures of the sovereigns, the generals, are inscribed with brass plates and bear
:uid the politicians who took part in the especial names, like " the oak of Wil-
war that ended at Waterloo. liam the Conqueror," and "Queen Vic-
The Presence chamber, or Court ball- toria's Tree."
room, hung with beautiful tapestries Of this park, and of Windsor as seen
and ornamented with granite vases; from it. M. Darvl, in his admirable
St. George's hall, more than two hun- book, says: "With its foliated pas-
dred feet long, with its trophies of arms sages, its winding corridors, grand
its
and armor, its shields and banners, em- round tower, its little window-panes
blazoned with the arms of all the knights sunk into lead, its irregular roofs and
from the foundation of the celebrated innumerable steps, this immense palace is
order; Guard chamber, filled with
the assuredly not a mode] of simplicity or of
military and naval trophies and the ; architectural regularity. But what a
Queen's Presence chamber, are the — grand appearance it haw upon the ter-
only rooms ordinarily shown to the race heights overlooking the Thames,
public. But beyond them lie the real when the setting sun is lighting up its
treasures: the Queen's and King's clos- windows, which rise high above the level
es ; beautiful cabinets filled with pictures of the forest trees ! How much this
by Holbein, Claude Lorraine, Titian, mass of feudal walls and modern build-
Rembrandt, Tintoretto, Rubens and ; ings resembles the British constitution,
the Rubens room, the Council cham- and how that fantastical decoration
ber, the Throne room, which contains seems the natural surroundings of that
some superb portraits by Gainsborough ;
sleeping beauty, the English monarchy.
the great Corridor, five hundred and More than Westminster Abbey or St.
twenty feet long, lined with busts of Paul's —
more than anvedifice Windsor —
—
has :i calm majesty, which is quite in the now appears as the giver of /<"!< s as well
fitness of things, and surpasses your ex- as of military decorations. The musty
pectations. All is grand, sumptuous, halls of Buckingham Palace are aired
and striking. The trees in the Long- and thrown open levees and ; drawing-
walk, four or five centuries old, and rooms are announced; the court, of
dving of old age, as they border an which M. Daryl denies the existence,
avenue two leagues in length; the gold comes out of its enchanted nap, and
plate, worth forty million francs; the proceeds to dazzle the eyes of the
pictures, which any museum in the groundlings; the heir-apparent is sent
world would lie proud to possess ; the to the disaffected sister island, there to
park, in which the deer are fed ; the dispense hospitality and money, and to
guards in their grand uniforms, who bear with g 1 grace the lack of recip-
keep watch at the posterns; and, rocal courtesy.
above all, the machicolations, and Besides her residence of Windsor the
the ramparts, two hundred feet above Queen has three royal metropolitan
us, profile against the sky dominating palaces: Buckingham Palace, properly
the horizon of a dozen counties. If we the residence of the sovereign and the
met a live unicorn at the end of an court; St. James's, used exclusively
alley we would hardly feel surprised. for state receptions and level's; and
At Windsor the atmosphere almost Kensington Palace, where Queen Vic-
seems Shakespearian, as at Versailles toria was born, and where she held her
one seems lo he walking in a tragedy of first Council. Buckingham Palace is far
.lean Racine." more impressive in exterior than in in-
Our sprightly French friend alludes terior. It is pretty enough in the midst
with certain fantastic cynicism to what of its symmetrical shrubbery and in the
he is pleased to term the Sleeping neighborhood of the green slopes of St.

Beauty ; hut the monarchy in troublous James's park in summer, when the sea-
times awakens from its feudal dream, son is at its height, and when the long
and shows that it knows how to take procession of high-swung barouches
part in the vicissitudes and troubles bears to it the hundreds of ladies who
which come to the nation. As these are presented at court. These poor
pages are written the English world is ladies undergo a ferocious inspection
disturbed by a deadly struggle with from the populace, which flocks up to the
Arab fanaticism, by the resistance of a park to see the swells lis they wait in
so-called Prophet, resistance heightened line their turn to descend within the
and strengthened by the conviction of palace grounds; and the assembled
the Arabs that their cause is just; and people pass many a rough comment upon
no sooner has the strain been felt in the bare-shouldered dowagers and the
England than the head of the aristocracy shrinking maidens who brave the ele-
rises to the level of an astonishing ments and the eyes of the vulgar on their
activity. The Queen, who has such way to pass before the platform on
marked dislike for public ceremonials, which the Queen stands to receive her
and who has so studiously refrained subjects. On Drawing-room days tin'
from participating in them since the loss Queen wears a mourning costume with
of the Prince Consort, whose life- — diamonds, and the Order of the Garter,
long mourner she is determined to lie, and about her are grouped the princesses
and many of the dignitaries of the royal and there many of his children were
household. The ladies pass slowly be- born. There Dr. Johnson used to go to
fore the platform, their long trains, consult books in the fine library, and
the feathers in their hair, — for flowers there be had a famous conversation one
are forbidden at court, — giving them a day with George III.
most singular appearance. There is no When the Palace was reconstructed,
buffet, and the fatigue of the long wait- in the second quarter of the present
ing and the crush in the Drawing-room century, the Arch,
celebrated Marble
are sometimes so prostrating that a lady which has long stood on the north-east
who has been presented at court does not corner of Hyde Park, was one of the
again appear in society during the season. ornaments of the Palace. It was re-
The etiquette is of the greatest, rigidity. moved in 1851. The marble hall and
The moral character of every person sculpture gallery ; the grand drawing-
who is presented for presentation is room, where, on the occasion of state
inspected microscopically, and no lady balls, the famous tent of Tippoo Sahib is
who has been caught in the meshes of a erected ; the Throne room, beautifully
divorce suit, no matter how faultless she hung with crimson satin, with the royal
herself may be, can hope for the momen- throne or chair of state, in which Her
tary glimpse of the majesty of the realm. Majesty is seated when she receives ad-
Buckingham Palace doubtless stands on dresses ; the picture-gallery of moderate
the old Marlborough garden, which was merit, and several other gaudy drawing-
planted by .lames I. in the seventeenth rooms, — are the principal features of the
century, and which, after his time, was a Palace. During the present reign a few
popular resort, where people of the best Costume Balls, as they are called, have
quality, according to old Evelyn, used been held in these halls ; lint since the
to go to be "exceedingly cheated at." death of the Prince Consort the only
There Drvdcn was wont to go with his festivals have been the drawing-rooms
mistress, Sirs. Anne Reeve, to drink for presentation, and at all of these at
sweetened wine and eat cheese-cakes. which gentlemen are presented the Prince
Later on there was a Buckingham House, of Wales represents the Queen. The
which the Duke of Buckingham built royal stables are close by ; and the
in 1703; and Defoe speaks of this as Palace can hardly be a healthy resi-
one of the great beauties of London. dence, since under it rims one of the
George III. lived at Buckingham House. greatest of the London sewers.
f>58 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER SIXTY-TWO.
St. James's Palace. — The Story (if Kensington. — Its Gardens. — The Charges which Royalty Entails. —
The Prince of Wales. — An Industrious Heir Apparent. — Marlborough House. The — Title of
Prince of Wales. — Habitual Views of Allowances to Royal Personages. —
Sandringham.
QT, James's Palace, on the north side Yeomen of the Queen's Guard on Levee
O of the Park, is an ugly old pile of and Drawing-Rooms days, in honor of
blackened brick, oner a hospital for lep- distinguished visitors.
rous females. But it is historically most Not far away is Clarence House, where
interesting,and when it stood in the the Duke of Clarence, who afterwards
midst of green fields, and before it was became King William IV., for sometime
dwarfed by the immediate vicinity of resided. This mansion is now the Lon-
the lofty Marlborough House, it was, don residence of one of the Princes
perhaps, impressive.Henry VIII. first Royal.
made a royal palace of St. James's: Kensington Palace, which is ill the
Edward and Elizabeth occasionally re- parish of St. Mark's in Westminster, is a
sided there: Mary made it the place of handsome edifice of brick with stone
her retirement during the absence of her foundations, and stands upon the site
royal spouse, Philip of Spain ; and of the mansion which was destroyed by
there she died. From the Chapel Royal, tire in 1G91. In the new palace Queen
which is one of the fashionable places of Mary and King William. Queen Anne
worship in London, Charles I. set forth ami the Prince Consort, and George II.
from the Park guarded with a regiment died. George III. rarely visited Ken-
of foot and partisans to Whitehall, on the sington but (he Duke of Kent was vers
:
morning that he lost his head. There fond of residing in the lower south-
Monk planned the Restoration: there eastern apartments, underneath the so-
the Dukes of York and Gloster were im- culled King's Gallery and there Queen
:
prisoned in the civil wars: and at the Victoria was christened on the 24th
close of the seventeenth century, the June. 1819. The story of her reception
Court at St. James's was very bril- of the intelligence of the death of
liant. This phrase, the ••Court of St. William IV. has been often told, but
James's," so constantly used in diplo- may be once more recited here. The
matic jargon, came into use shortly after noted painter, Sir David Wilkie, has
the burning of Whitehall, in 1697, when left a representation of the scene, but
the St. James's Palace was first used with a painter's license hi' departed
for important state ceremonials. George somewhat from the truth. In the diaries
I V. was horn in this palace, and, in 1814, of a lady of quality, under the date of
the Emperor of Russia and the King of June. fS.'w,is the following entry : "On
Prussia with old Dluehcr were installed the 20th at two a. in. the scene closed
therein dining their visit to London. (this is an allusion to the death of King
The old ceremonials of the honors of the William), and in a very short time the
Guard Chamber arc still enacted hv the Archbishop of Canterbury anil Lord
Conyngham, the chamberlain set out to young sovereign was more like that of
announce the event to their new sover- the bidding at an auction than anything
eign. They reached Kensington Palace else."
at about five. They knocked, they rang, Not far away are the delightful Ken-
they thumped for a considerable time, sington Gardens, several hundred acres
before they could arouse the porter at in area, and there, when King William
the gates. They were again kept wait- lived in the Palace, the great gardens,
ing in the court-yard, then turned into which Queen Caroline had caused to be
one of the lower rooms, where they laid out,were opened to the public on
seemed forgotten by everybody. They Saturdays; and all visitors were required
rang the bell, desired that the attendant to appear in full dress. It was Queen
of the Princess Victoria might be sent Caroline who formed the serpentine,
to inform her Royal Highness that they which divided the Palace grounds from
requested an audience on business of the open Hyde Park and near the ;
importance. After another delay, and bridge over this serpentine there are
another ringing to inquire the cause, the many tine walks beneath fine old Spanish
attendant was summoned, and stated chestnut-trees.
that the Princess was in such a sweet The nation is proud and pleased to
sleep that she could not venture to dis- pay all the charges which royalty entails
turb her. Then they said, 'We are upon it; and these charges are various
come to the Queen, on business of state. and numerous enough to bear recapitula-
and even her sleep must give way to tion here. Theoretically the Queen's in-
that.' It did ; and, to prove that she did come is free from all taxes and charges ;
not keep them waiting, in a few minutes but we learn that Sir Robert Peel, when
she came into the room in a loose white lie was prime minister, in 1842, an-
night-gown and shawl, her night-cap nounced that the Queen had declared her
thrown off, and her hair falling upon her determination to submit to the income
shoulders, her feet in slippers, tears in tax. This statement was received with
her eyes, but perfectly collected and enthusiasm but the Queen is supposed
;
dignified. The first act of the Queen from that day to this never to have paid
was of course to summon the Council, any income tax. Among the so-called
and most of the summonses were not Civil List charges on the Consolidated
received until after the early hour fixed Fund are £60,000 for Her Majesty's
for its meeting. The Queen was, upon privy purse ; £131 ,260 for Her Majesty's
the opening of the doors, found sitting at household, including annual salaries and
the head of the table. She received retired allowances; £172,500, expenses
first homage of the Duke of Cumber-
the of Her Majesty's household; £13,200,
land, who I suppose was not King of royal bounty, alms, and special services ;
Hanover when he knelt to her. The pensions granted by Her Majesty. £23,-
Duke of Sussex rose to perform the 714 ; unappropriated items. £8,0 10 ; reve-
same ceremony, but the Queen stood up nues of the Duchy of Lancaster drawn
and prevented him from kneeling, kiss- by Her Majesty, about £44,000 annually :
ing him on the forehead. The crowd expenditure on the royal palaces, several
was so great, the arrangements were so thousand pounds; on the great park.
ill-made, that my brothers tell me the £25,000 annually, —
in short, on all the
scene of swearing allegiance to their immediate personal expenses and those

connected with the royal residences, thousand acres, and her rental from
nearly £500,000. The royal yachts and Aberdeen, Hants, and [Surrey is about
the naval charges amount to £34,656 ;
£5,500. The grand estate of Windsor
and this is the annual average cost of is more than ten thousand acres, and is
the four royal yachts for ten years, valued at £22,000 odd per annum. The
Escorts and salutes, and the pay of Queen bought Claremont for £74,000, in
naval and marine aides-de-camp cost 1882. This noble property cost Lord
about £5,000 more; the military aide- Give nearly £150,000, and covers four
de-camp, the household troops, pensions hundred and sixty-four acres. Besides
in connection with the Orders of the her English possessions the Queen has
Bath and of St. Patrick, allowances to property at Coburg and at Baden, in
marshal of ceremonies and trumpeters, Germany.
and other small items which come under Other payments by the nation to the
the head of royal escort, cost £70,000 royal family may he briefly reviewed
annually. Many items formerly defrayed as follows: II. 11.11. the Princess Royal,
by the revenues of the crown, such as present Crown Princess of Prussia, the
grants to the Church of Scotland, royal able, amiable, and interesting wife of
functionaries in Scotland, hereditary Prince Frederick William, heir to the
usher, the hereditary keeeper, master of German throne, received yearly, after
the audience court, the officers of the 1858, £8,000 ; and there is an odd little
Order of the Thistle, the six trumpeters, item of £40 for a special steamer to con-
Iler Majesty's historiographer, clock- vey the Crown Prince to and fro when-
maker, the warden at regalia, Her Ma-jes- ever he visits England attached to the
tv's charities ami bounties, the Ulster estimates on behalf of this princess
king-at-arms, the pensions paid to Eng- royal. When she was married, the nation
lish clergy, the pensions paid to French gave her a money grant of £10,1100.
refugee clergy, bounties to the clergy and The Prince of Wales has received
school-masters of Man, and
the Isle of annually since 1863 £40,000, as a
many other items, are now assumed by charge on the Consolidated Fund, be-
the nation, and count in the sovereign's sides which he enjoys the revenues of
Civil List, the total payments on account the Duchy of Cornwall, which have
of which arc about £619,000 annually, averaged £65,000 annually for the last
During the life of the Prince Consort ten years. This Duchy of Cornwall is
£30,000 per annum was payable to him, a little treasury in itself. The lands of
and the total sum drawn under the act the duchy are about seventy-four thon-
giving him a yearly sum had been sand acres in area, and the coal, tin,
£630,000. In 1852 a generous gentle- ami lead mines yield enormously. The
man bequeathed £250,000 sterling to invested and cash balances of the duchy
Her Majesty for her personal use. amount to £130,000. For annual re-
It is but proper that the Queen pairs of Marlborough House the Prince
should be a great land-owner, as she has about £2,000. The Princess of
is the head of a landed aristocracy, Wales has a separate annual charge on
and her private estates, while they do the Consolidated Fund of £10,000 and ;
not rank in size with the great ducal whenever the Prince makes a journey in
possessions, art' very considerable. In the interest of the nation, as when he
Aberdeen shi' has more than twenty-live went to St. Petersburg to invest the
EUROTF. LV STORM AND CALM. 561
Czar with the Orderof theGarter,his trav- exchange of despatches. The Prince is
elling expenses are from £2,000to£3,000. but a small land-owuer, for lie has lint
Shortly before he reached his

majority the Prince of Wales
received the accumulated rev-
enues of the Duchy of Corn-
wall, amounting to more than
£600,000. Of this sum one-
third was invested in the pur-
chase of Sandringham, and a
part of the remainder was
spent in building the pretty
mansion there, and in fitting
out the Prince and his house-
hold for his active campaign
of social duty. The Prince of
Wales is the first gentleman,
as Ihe Premier or Prime Min-
ister is the first man, in Eng-
land. Tlie position of heir-
apparent to the throne is by
no means a bed of roses.
It is as trying and requires
as energetic conduct as that
of a great politician ; and in
troublous times the conduct

of the present Prince, as well
as his energy and courage,
have done much to prevent
crises. When the Queen is
puzzled and annoyed at Mr.

Gladstone's course it is the
Prince of Wales who pops
into the Premier's office and
makes him a friendly call.
When there is a chance for a
favorable alliance on the con-
tinent, it is the Prince of
Wales who appears in Paris
PRINCE OF WALES.
or Pome, Berlin or Vienna,
From Photograph tiy A. Hassano, Old P.oml street, London.
leaving always an excellent
impression behind him, and
often accomplishing in a few moments' a rental of £10,000 from fourteen thon-
eonversation what the diplomats have sand eight hundred acres in Norfolk and
been bringing up to the verge of accom- Aberdeenshire. Should the Princess of
plishment during long months of weary Wales survive her husband she would
5(52 EUROPE TN STORM AND CALM.
receive from the nation £30,000 per eign, that, he has a right to assume it
annum, or £10,000 less than she now as soon as he is born. I>ut the fact is
receives in addition to lier own portion. that every heir-apparent to the English
When the Prince went to India, in 1ST."), throne is Prince of Wales only by an
out of the £142,000 expended during the act of special creation in his own par-
journey. £60,000 was allowed as pocket- ticular case. Sometimes this act is de-
money and to be given as gratuities. It layed for many years, and sometimes
is not astonishing that all who partici- it is not enforced at all. Edward II.
pated in thai memorable excursion never was the first Prince of Wales, the story,
wa^v to sing the praises of the Prince which has been told recently in the
of Wales. British press on the occasion of the
The entrance to Marlborough House, majority of the eldest son of the present
which is the town residence of the Prince Prince, being that, " to reconcile the
and Princess of Wales, looks like the Welsh people to their subjugation, and
entrance of a great club, and the to the recognition of the sovereignty
stranger might lie pardoned for mistak- instead mere suzerainty of the
of the
ing it for a club-house, as it stands in English, King Edward I. promised them
the region of the costly palaces which a prince born in their own country, and
the great number of club associations unable to speak a word of English."
have adopted as peculiar to their own. The legend tells us that tin' shrewd
This house, which lias been much im- Edward kept his promise by presenting
proved in later years, was built for the to the Welsh people his son Edward, who
great Duke of Marlborough, in 1710, had just been born at Carnarvon, and
was at one time the residence of Queen who certainly could not speak English,
Adelaide, widow of William IV., and and who would have found it just as
later on. was a kind of museum, until the difficult to speak Welsh. Edward II.
department of science and art was re- was not created Prince of Wales until he
moved to South Kensington, when Marl- was seventeen Edward III. was never
;
borough House was prepared for a princely made Prince of Wales, but was called
residence. There all the Prince's chil- the Earl of Chester; the Black Prince
dred, except the eldest, were born, and Edward was called Prince of Wales when
there the heir-apparent lives a cosy and he was thirteen, and from his time date
honest English life, receiving cordially the three ostrich feathers aud the motto
great numbers of friends without much " Ich Dien" (I serve), the princely de-
of that strictness and etiquette which vice, which tin' present heir-apparent
prevails in his goodly mother's palace of thoroughly fulfils. Some of the princes
Windsor. The sentries, majestic in of Wales, notably he who became
their bearskin who walk up and caps, George IV., certainly served no one but
down before Marlborough House and the themselves. The famous Madcap Prince,
entrance to St. James's Park, are the of whom Shakespeare has given us such
only indications that royalty graces the pleasant pictures, was a Prince of
neighborhood. Wales and after him there is a long
;
It is generally supposed in America line of princes good, and princes bad.
aud on the continent that the title of George I.'s son did not become Prince
Prince of Wales is hereditary for the of Wales until he was thirty-two.
eldest son of the reigning English sover- Amoug the bad princes may be set
;
EUROPE LV STORM AND CALM. 563
down Frederick, Prince of Wales, This Fred, however, left a son to be

whose reputation is summed up in the Prince of Wales, and afterwards to be
biting epitapli written shortly after his George III., of whom America heard
death: — much.
PRINCESS OF WALES AND FAMILY.

From Photograph by W. <fc I). Downing, F.bury street, London.
" Here lies Fred, who was alive and now is dead. In an interesting article published in
Had been his father, I had much rather,
the " Daily News " last year, occurs the
it
Had it been his brother, sooner than any other,
Had been his sister, there is no one who

following statement concerning the finan-
it
would have missed her, cial arrangements for the Prince of

Had it been his whole generation, best of all Wales :
" Until the accession of the
for the nation
Queen, the annuity of the Prince of
But since it's only Fred, there is no more to be
said."
Wales had depended solely on the then
reigning sovereign, and was granted by said tohim: "Sir, I can bear it no
him out of the Civil George I.
List. longer. If you count your money once
gave out of a Civil List of £700,000 a more I will leave the room." The
year an annuity of £100,000 to the contrast between the miserly father and
Prince of Wales, the revenue of the the spendthrift sou is quite in the vein
Duchy of Cornwall being- about £10,000 of the old comedy. It belongs to the
a year. After he became king he did olilest comedy, that of human nature.
" George II., out of
his Civil List of £800,-
000, allowed to Fred-
erick, Prince of Wales,
a '
poor, dissolute, flabby
fellow - creature,' says
Carlyle, an annuity of
£60,000, which, with
his hereditary revenue
as Duke of Cornwall,
gavehim£60,000ayear.
The alleged inadequacy
of this allowance was,
at the instigation of
Bolingbroke, brough t
before the House of
Commons by Pulteney,
whom the King struck
off the list of the Privy
Council for his pains.
Through the intrigues
of the Court at Leicester
House, a motion for its
increase was nearly being

carried. The annuity
which ( ieorge III. him-
self granted to his Prince
DEPARTURE OF THE PRINCE <>K WALES FOR INDIA of Wales, afterwards
George IV., was £50,-
not emulate his father's generosity. ooo. the annual revenue of the Duchy of
George II. was the Harpagon <>t' kings. Cornwall amounting to about £12,000.
lie must have been the original of the George, Prince of Wales, bore consid-
king in the nursery rhyme, who was al- erable resemblance, in character, to his
ways in his counting-house, counting of grandfather, Frederick. Prince of Wales.
his money, for that was one of his He imitated him in political intrigue,
favorite occupations. Horace Walpole and endeavored, through his friends in
mentions that one of his bedchamber the House of Commons, to obtain an

women, with whom he was in love, increase in the annual allowance made to
seeing him count his money very often, him. After some unsuccessful attempts.
EUROPE I.Y STORM AXD CALM. 505
the King, not desiring to run the risk any of its predecessors.
the country than
which his grandfather had incurred on Mr. Bright once described the public
Mr. Pulteney's nearly successful motion, service of the country as a gigantic sys-
made a proposal by Mr. Alderman Not- tem of out-door relief for the aristocracy,
tage, in the House of Commons, in 17K7, The statement is much less true now
for granting an additional £10.000 a than when Mr. Bright made it. The
year out of the Civil List. In 1 795 an younger members of the aristocracy,
additional annuity of £65,000 was set- the Lord Walters and Lionels, and the
tled upon the Prince, and in 180:? a fur- Hon. Alans and Johns, are (locking into
ther addition of £10,000 a year was commerce, professions, and adventures,
made. This increase was, however, are filling a state and clearing the back-
practically mortgaged for the payment woods. The time may come when the
of the Prince's debts, put down at remoter scions of the Royal House may
£650,000, and did not swell the income find the need and the happiness of taking
available for his personal expenses." a similar course.

numerous grand-
It is said, that, as the The heir-apparent of the heir-appar-
children of the Queen marry, the sums ent, Prince Albert Victor Charles Arthur
which have been voted by Parliament to Edward, known to his family and at his
the members of the royal family will be university as Prince Edward, has re-
enormously increased. The Princess cently attained his majority, a Iter having
Beatrice, the last of the children, will, been to sea, as becomes an English
doubtless, have as generous a propor- good bit of the world.
Prince, and seen a
tional allowance as has been made in the At Trinity College, Cambridge, which
case of her brothers and sisters. " But," Macaulay called the noblest place of
says a recent writer, " when the time education in the world, he has been read-
comes for dealing with the third genera- ing many hours daily, and his first public
tion of the royal house, it may be neces- acts, such as the exchange of notes with
sary to reconsider what is expedient and the venerable Gladstone, and numerous
practical." The grandchildren of George representatives and politicians, indicate
III., to whom annuities have been voted. much strength of character. Sandring-
are only three, — the Duke of Cambridge ham, where the festivities on his coming
and his two sisters. The English-born of age took place, lies in a pretty coun-
grandchildren of her present Majesty try near the sea, amongand rich
hills
are no fewer than eighteen,- — very likely marsh meadows, dotted with cattle and
to be more. It is well, perhaps, that wild and picturesque stretches of heath,
the prospects to be made in respect to broken by plantations. The house is
provision for them should be established surrounded by a handsome park dotted
in a new House of Commons, more with lakes.
fairly representing the general owners of
—
5(5(5 EUROPE IN STORM AM) CAEM.
CHAPTER SIXTY-THREE.
Fortunes and Incomes of Members of the English Royal Family. — Ancient and Hereditary Pensions.
The Invisible Court. — Its Functionaries. — Presidency. — The Aristocratic Element in the House
of < lommons.
rT"MIK charges upon the " Consolidated Queen £500 a year, besides many per-
-L Fund." caused by the maintenance quisites. The gracious and charming
of the Royal Family, do not cease with Marchioness of Lome, her Royal High-
the handsome payments to the Queen ness Princess Louise, also receives
and to her eldest sou. His Royal Highness £6,000 from the nation, and had out of
Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh, has received the annual appropriations £30,000 when
annually, since attaining his majority, in she was married. She lives in Ken-
1865, £15,000, and after his marriage in sington Palace, rent free. The late
1874, £10,000. His pay and allowance Princess Alice of Hesse also had an
as Rear Admiral and superintendent of annual grant of £6,000 in Consols, a
naval reserves, amount to nearly £1,500 dowry of £30,000, and during her life-
per annum. He has the free use of time received from the nation £126,000.
Clarence House, on which Parliamenl His Royal Highness Arthur, Duke of
spent, a vast sum in altering it and Connaught, up to his majority in 1871,
fitting it Cor his use. He is shortly to had received £6,000 per annum, and
inherit the great estates and wealth of since his majority has had £10,000 an-
the reigning Duke of Saxe Coburg and nually. He draws £4,000 every year as
an income of fully £30,000 yearly. His military pay, and his wife brought him a
wife brought him a pretty fortune of dowry of £15,000. Mr. Gladstone, who
£90,000, besides a marriage portion of supported the annuity hill in Parliament
£300,000 and a life annuity of more for this Prince, was excluded from the
than £11, (Kl(). In case she outlives the list of invitations when the Duke was
Duke, she is to have £0,000 in Consols. married. The Duke of Connaught has
The immense accumulation thus enu- a suit of rooms in Buckingham Palace,
merated was the basis of the strenuous and a mansion at Bagshot Park,
fine
opposition of Sir Charles Dilke and built him and administered by the
for
others, in 1874, to a new grant to the Woods and Forests Department. From
Prince, who had married the richest 1874 to l.s.si'. his late Royal Highness,
heiress in Europe, lint only eighteen the Prince Leopold. Duke of Albany,
people ventured to vote against the received annually £15,000; £10,000 a
Crown. Her Royal Highness Eleanor, year when he wtis married, in 1882, and
Princess Christian, is allowed £6,000 tit was given
the time of his marriage
annually, and on the occasion of her £1 lo,iioo by the English people.Her
marriage was given £30,000. She litis Royal Highness, the Duchess of Cam-
Cumberland Lodge. Windsor Park, as a bridge, has received £6,000 annually
royal residence. The Prince Christian, since her widowhood in 1850. Her
who is the Park Ranger, gets from the Royal Highness Augusta, Princess aud
Duchess of Mecklinburg-Strelitz, has had willingly, because it really considers it as

£3,000 yearly since 1843, when she was spent upon its own pleasures, and it pre-
married and whenever she journeys
; fixes each park with the word "royal,"
abroad, it is in a special steamer, for to confer upon it an additional dignity.
which £80 is allotted. His Royal High- The nation sums up and embodies its
ness George, Duke of Cambridge, has own majesty in the royal family, and it
£12,000, besides game-rights, residences, considers that it gives proof of its own
and pasturages, amounting to £3,000 magnificence in treating these hereditary
more per year. As Field Marshal com- representatives magnificently.
manding-in-chief, he has £4,500 per At all times, until recent years, the
year, and as Colonel of the Grenadier sovereigns of England have felt free to
Guards, a little more than £2,000 per bestow pensions with reckless generosity,
year. Thus the head of the army receives and Great Britain has an enormous list
about£33,000 every year, as commander- of ancient and hereditary pensioners.
in-chief, and nearly £70,000 as a. gift The present Queen has in forty-six years
from the nation. Audacious attempts expended nearly £7.">0,000 in Civil List
have been made in Parliament to reduce pensions. The unredeemed ancient pen-
these payments. Joseph Hume, John sions, the grants made by Parliament in
lhight. and others have attempted to perpetuity, and pensions granted since
lower them to £S,0()0 or £12,000, but in the passage of the Restraint Acts, and
vain. InLondon, the Duke of Cam- made payable for more than one life,
bridge resides inGloster House, inPicca- give an enormous total. But England is
dilly, which has been given him by the not the only country which is encumbered
Queen as his town residence. with pensioners. It is to be noted, how-
Mary, Princess of Teck, has £5,000 ever, that, year by year, a large part of
annually. His Serene Highness the the increase in expenditure on pensions
Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar has ami gratuities comes from the army esti-
about £3,500, and various nephews have mates, and is due to the constant small
half-pay or retired pay, as vice-admirals and large wars in which England is
or as governors of castles or park-keepers. engaged. The Financial Reform Al-
In addition to these there is a long list manac calls attention to the fact that, in
of pensions to servants of deceased that black year of trade, 1884, John

sovereignsand the grand total of money
; Bull has had
pay a corps of 140,000
to
paid out by Great Britain, in twelve pensioners, military, naval, and civil, for
months, in connection with the royal doing nothing, and that their drawing,
family, is about £870,000, to which amounting to £7,500,000 sterling, swal-
should be added the cost of keeping up lowed up the whole of the income tax
the royal public parks and pleasure-gar- laid on the national profits during twelve
dens, — Battgrsea, Betlmal Green, Bushy months.

Park, Chelsea Military Asylum, Edin- A brief review of Her Majesty's
burgh Royal Botanic Gardens, Green- household anil the expenses attendant
wich, Hampton Court, Kew, Holyr I. upon it may not lie considered uninter-
Kensington, Regent's Park, and Prim- esting by republican readers. In the
rose Hill, Richmond Parle, St. James's Lord Steward's department, the Lord
Park, Victoria Park, etc., ml infinitum. Steward, Rt. Hon. Earl Sydney, receives
But the nation gives this money very £2,000 a year; the Treasurer of the
568 ECROI'K IN STORM A.XD CALM.
Household and the Controller, £1,000 There is also a Master of the Horse,
each; Masterof the Household, £1,158; the well-known Duke of Westminster,
Secretary to the Board, £500; Keeper at £2,500 a. Masterof the Buck Hounds,
;
of tin- Privy Purse and Private Secretary at £1,500; a Clerk of the Marshal, at
to Her Majesty, Hon. Sir 11. F. Ponson- £1,000; an hereditary Grand Falconer,
by, whose name is so often seen affixed if you please, at £1,200; a Crown
to telegrams from Her Majesty,
sent Equerry and Secretary to the Master of
£2,000; an Assistant Keeper, £5,000; the Horse, at £8,000; several Equerries
another Assistant, £500; Secretary of in Ordinary, £600 and £500; extra
at.
the Privy Purse, £3,000; and Clerks, Honorary pages of honor.

Equerries,
trivial salaries. In the Lord Chamber- In the department of the Mistress of the
lain's department, the Lord Chamber- Robes there is first the mistress, the
lain, the Earl of Kinmare, has £2,000 Duchess of Roxburghe, who receives
per year ; the Vice-Chamberlain, nearly £500 a year, Ladies of the Bed-chamber,
£1,000; the Controller of Accounts, the extra Ladies of the Bed-chamber, Bed-
same the Chief Clerk, £700 Paymaster
; ; chamber Women, extra Bed-chamber
of the Household, £500; Masterof the Women, a Lady attendant upon
Ceremonies. £3,000; the Lords-in-Wait- Princess Beatrice, the Maids of
ing, cadi £702 the extra, Lord-in- Wait-
; Honor, each of these last receiving
ing gets no salary ; Grooms-in-Waiting, £300 a year; the Gr of the Robes, i
eaeh £334, but extra Grooms-in-Waiting and a Clerk of the Robes. There are,
are without pay ; the Gentlemen Ushers furthermore, the Dean of the Chapels
of the Privy Chamber, eaeh £200; the Royal, who is no less a personage than
Gentleman Usher of the Black Hod. the Bishop of London a. Sub-Dean, a ;
£2,01)0; Gentlemen Ushers, daily wait- Clerk of the Closet, Deputy Clerks of the
ers, considered a. very honorable ap- Closet, a Domestic Chaplain, a Domes-
pointment, each £'.'00; Grooms of the tic Chaplain of the Household, an heredi-
Privy Chamber, each £120; Gentlemen tary Grand Almoner, a. High Almoner,
Ushers, quarterly waiters, each £80; a Sub-almoner, a Secretary and a Yeo-
Sergeants-at-Arms, each £80 ; the Poet man. There are also numerous phy-
Laureate, Lord Tennyson, £100; the sicians in ordinary, extraordinary,
Examiner of Plays, £500 ; the Librarian surgeons in ordinary, sure-eons extraor-
at "Windsor. £500. In addition to these dinary, physicians of the household,
there are attached to this intangible surgeons of the household, surgeon
court, for which the French writer. M. apothecaries, surgeon at Osborne, sur-
Daryl, seems to have sought in vain, a geon oculists, surgeon dentists, dentists
Painter in Ordinary, a modern Painter of the household, and chemists and
and Sculptor, a Surveyor of Pictures, druggists, all attached to the Royal
a German Librarian, a Governor Con- House.
stable of Windsor Castle, Her Maj- The arrangement of the Prince of
esty's Body Guard of Yeomen of the Wales's household is, on the whole, ex-
( ruard, with a captain, at £'l ,200 a year ; tremely simple, and there arc no salaries
an honorable guard of Gentlemen-at- attaching to any of the appointments:
Anns. with a captain, at £1,200, with a the Keeper of the Privy Seal, the Lords of
standard-bearer, with a clerk of the the Bed-chamber, the Controller and
cheque, an adjutant, and a sub-officer. Treasurer, the Grooms of the Bed-chain-
EUROPE W STORM AND CALM. 5G9
ber, the Equerries, the extra Equerries, Seal, the Lord Great Chamberlain, the
the Private Secretary, the Librarian and Earl Marshal, the Lord Steward of Her
German Secretary, the Clerks, the Gover- Majesty's Household, the Lord Chamber-
nors for the Prince, the Physicians, Sur- lain then come the Dukes, according to
;
geons, etc., and they are few as compared their pateuts of creation, of England,
with the great array of the Queen's attend- Scotland, Wales, and Ireland, and those
ants. The household of the Princess of created since the Union ; in the same
Wales is composed of the Chamberlain, order as dukes, dukes' eldest sons, earls,
the Ladies of the Bed-chamber, who are according to their patents, marquises'
always ladies of high distinction ; Bed- eldest sous, dukes' younger sons, vis-
chamber Women, extra Bed-chamber counts, according to their patents, earls'
Women, and a Private Secretary. All eldest sons, marquises' younger sons ; the
this enormous expenditure and weight of bishops of Loudon, Durham, and Win-
salaries, paid for services which are, to chester ; all other English bishops, ac-
sav the least, in a great majority of cases cording to seuiority of creation bishops ;
entirely and rarely per-

unnecessary of the Irish Church created before 1869 ;
formed, is placed upon the broad backs Secretaries of State, if they be barons;
of the English middle classes, and is barons, according to their patents. We
borne Almost with ease. have now come dowu through a long list
The vast superstructure of royalty and to a very important parliamentary func-
aristocracy is apparent to the strange]- no- tionary, who is heard quite as much of
where so palpably as at a public banquet, in the course of a year as the Queen or
where, after the toasts are begun, he ob- the Prince of Wales, but who, as will
serves that it takes almost as long as is readily be seen, is a long way from the
allotted to ordinary speeches in dinners in throne, — this is the Speaker of the
many other countries to get down to the House of Commons. Below him is the
subject-matter of the evening. There Treasurer of Her Majesty's Household,
are, first, what are called the loyal toasts, the Controller of Her Majesty's House-
which are never omitted, and which, at hold, the Master of the Horse, the Vice-
dinners of importance, almost invariably Chamberlain of Her Majesty's House-
comprise the army and navy, the church hold, the Secretaries of State under the
and the law, if the law is present. The degree of baron, viscounts' eldest sons,
reason for this is easily found in the earls' younger sons, barons' eldest sons,
table of precedency, which is as familiar Knights of the Garter, Privy Councillors,
and as much a matter of course to Eng- the Chancellor of the Exchequer, the
glish men and women as it is odd and Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster,
singular to many foreigners. The table the Lord Chief Justice of the Queen's
naturally begins with the sovereign, and Bench, the Master of the Bolls, the
descends in the following order: the Lords Justice of Appeal, the Lords of
Prince of Wales, the Queen's younger Appeal, Judges, according to seniority,
Sous, the Grandsons of the sovereign, viscounts' younger sons, barons' younger
the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Lord sons, baronets, according to date of
High Chancellor, the Archbishop of York, pateuts, Knights of the Thistle, Knights
the Archbishop of Armagh, the Arch- of St. Patrick, Knights of the Grand
bishop of Dublin, the Lord President of Cross of the Bath, Knights Grand Com-
the Privy Council, the Lord of the Privy manders of the Star of India, Knights of
the Grand Cross of St. Michael and St The aristocracy represented in this
George, Commanders of the
Knights court practically governs England; and
Bath, Knights Commanders of the Star it is striking to observe that in the
of India, Knights Commanders of St. House of Commons the aristocratic and
Michael and St. George, Knights Bache- landed interest far exceeds any other.
lors, Judges of County Courts, Com- In the present House, for instance,
panions of the Bath, Companions of the there one hundred and forty-one
are
Star of India, Companions of St. Michael members who are connected with the
and St. George, Companions of the In- peerage by birth, and one hundred and
dian Empire, eldest sons of the younger twenty-eight connected with it by mar-
sons of peers, baronets' eldest sons, riage, and three Irish peers. There
eldest sons of Knights of the Garter, are one hundred ami sixty-eight officers
Thistle, St. Michael and St. George, St. of the army, retired officers, prominent
Patrick, the Bath, the Star of India, officersof the navy, the militia, and
Knights Bachelors, younger sons of the the yeomanry there are seventy-nine
;
younger sons of peers, baronets' younger sons and heirs of peers who are great
sons, younger sons of knights in the laud-owners, one hundred and ninety-
same order as eldest sons; and, finally, eight land-owners, and but four farm-
gentlemen entitled to bear arms, in ers, one mason, and one miner. It
whom we recognize our old friend Armi- is estimated that the House of Com-
ger or Esquire. The ladies take the mons represents a collective ownership
same rank as their husbands or as their of seven millions live hundred seventy-
brothers; but merely official rank on seven thousand nine hundred and sev-
the husband's part does not give any enty-four acres of land, which yield a
similar precedence to the wife. When £5,901,218; but the House of
rent-roll of
it is remembered that in every large Lords represents an ownership in acres

assembly, like that of a meeting be- of fifteen million two hundred thirteen
fore a great banquet, or a reception, thousand two hundred and eighty-nine,
a crush, a party, this table of prece- giving a rental of £12,751, 596; and if
dence takes form in the mind of the to this we should add the acres and
persons who manage or give the enter- rentals of representative peers, we
tainments, and is adhered to with all the should have, as the total land representa-
rigidity possible under the circumstances, tion of the peerage, —
some five hundred
it is easy to see that conventional form and twenty-four men, sixteen million —
is a prime element in every English four hundred eleven thousand nine
gathering, or at the public dinners. It hundred and eighty-six acres, worth
is sometimes galling to cultivated and £13,542,620 per annum. All but thirty-
distinguished representatives of the three of the peers who sit in the House of
United States to lie placed in inferior Lords are land-owners, and there is paid
positions at table, far below the Japanese to them, in annuities, and pensions,
Minister, or, possibly some petty East salaries,£598,000 annually, of which the
Indian simply
potentate, because peers royal get £100,000 odd, and the
America abroad only ministers
sends prelates or spiritual peers, about £165,-
with extraordinary powers and an am- ; 000. Although the House of Lords is
bassador must necessarily take prece- pretty fairly divided into Conservative
dence of a minister. and Liberal sections, on questions of land

the Liberals flock over to the Conserva- sey Dock Board. The Earl of Sefton
tive side. The fortunes represented in got a quarter of a million sterling from
this ancient, and latterly, rather tried, the corporation of Liverpool for three
body of aristocrats, are enormous, and hundred and seventy-five acres of land
a few facts relating to them, recently for a park. Earl Dudley exhibited the
published in England, are worth giving diamonds of his Countess at the Vienna
here. The Duke of Northumberland re- Exhibition, and their value was stated
ceived £525,000 iu 1873 from the rate- at £500,000 sterling. The Duke of
payers in London for his old castle in Norfolk sold a market to the Sheffield
Trafalgar square. The Duke of Suth- Corporation in 187G for £270,000. Tin-
erland had £300,000 invested in railways Earl of Seafield has forests forty-one
in the north of Scotland iu 1874. It thousand acres in extent. Their wood
was estimated that the value of the was estimated in 1856 to be worth
estates iu the West End of London £1,200,000. It is said that, in thirty
owned by the Duke of Westminster was years from this time, one of these forests
£220,000 a year, —
more than a million will give £50,000 a year from its nine-
dollars a year as ground rental. The teen thousand acres. The Earl of Stam-
Duke of Hamilton, who has coal-fields ford got £175,000 for one estate of three
covering nearly nine thousand acres, hundred acres of wooded land in 1875.
gets royalties of £114,000 annually, and No wonder these great land-owners cling
the ultimate value of these coal-fields is to their laud. Hundreds of the smaller
estimated at more than $60,000,00(1. land-owners, finding their tenant farm-
This is the noble Duke who sold his ers discontented and deserting them,
library for £170,000 in 1884. An idea say, in melancholy tone, that they are, iu
of the fortune of the Marquis of Bute the expressive southern phrase, " land
may be had from the fact that he spent poor." Out of the whole seventy-seven
£1,000,000 sterling on Cardiff docks million eight hundred thousand acres in
to improve them. The Earl of Derby the United Kingdom, twelve men own
owns Bootle and Kirkdale, Liverpool, four million four hundred forty thousand
and gets enormous sums from the Mer- acres.
—
572 EUROPE /Ar

STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER SIXTY-FOUR.
The Parliament Palace. —
History and Tradition. —
The New Home of the Plutocrats. —The Victoria
Tower. —Westminster Hall. —
The House of Lords. —
Procedure in the Hereditary Chamber.
The Force <>t' Inertia. —
Parliamentary Calm.
THE huge
Thames
gothic palace opposite the to Elizabeth. It is first named in a
is certainly the most im- charter of Edward the Confessor, made
pressive of modern English monuments. a little after 1052; ami within the old
and is said to be the largest range of palace walls the Confessor died. In
public buildings erected for several cen- 1066, William the Norman held his
turies in Great Britain. Every great councils there; there the Abbot of
nation thinks it possesses the first legis- Peterboro was tried before the king in
lative assembly of the world, and that 1069; there William Rufus built his
when the members of that assembly great hall with its majestic and phe-
come together, the listening peoples in nomenal roof, which not even the mali-
the f quarters of the globe tremble cious Irish patriots with their dynamite
with excitement. But there is some can shake, and which is quite as likely
foundation for the English boast that as royalty itself to last for many cen-
the Parliament Houses shelter the first turies to come. In this great hall Wil-
parliament of the world; for in no two liam Rufus held his court in 1099;
other legislative chambers is so wide a there also Henry I. gave many a fes-
range of force, and one covering and tival. In 1238 the boisterous Thames
surrounding so vast an extent of sea invaded the great and dignitarieshall,
and land ever discussed and directed. of the State went

and fro in boats to
When we hear on the Continent of under the roof of William Rufus. But
" parliamentary government," and of repeated conflagrations ate away the
' parliamentary procedure," these terms greater part of the old palace, the great
mean something so totally different from hall always being kept in good repair
what they represent in England, that a for feasts, lor coronations, for arraign-
comparison of the difference would lie ment of personages charged with
almost astonishing. A mass of flowery treason, and for the keeping of the
tradition of almost as rich a gothic as courts of justice. There Henry VIII.
tin • exterior of the Parliament Houses defied the legate of the Pope; and
surrounds all the proceedings of the sometimes parliaments were held therein.
English legislative bodies; yet the pal- In 1H34 a great fire swept away St.
ace in which they meet is as new Stephen's Chapel, the House of Cords,
as the plutocracy which has crept and many of the surrounding parlia-
into legislative representation in Great mentary buildings and Turner painted
;
Britain. a picture of the fire. The old House of

The new Westminster Palace stands Lords. —
the walls of which were very
on the site of the old royal palace of thick and strong, and underneath which
the kings of England from Edward I. was the cellar where Guy Fawkes hatched
his Gunpowder Plot, was taken down the Royal State Apartments, the House
about 1823. Many of the other fine of Lords and the House of Commons,
rooms have disappeared, among them and the great Central Hall. Enlight-
the Prince's chamber, which was hung ened by the sad experience of the pre-
with tapestry representing scenes in the vious fires, Mr. Barry endeavored to
babyhood of Queen Elizabeth. At the make his building fire-proof. All the
time of the fire of 1834
the House of Lords oc-
cupied the old Court of
Requests, which was
hung with tapestry rep-
resenting the defeat of
the Spanish Armada.
This new Parliamen-
tary palace was begun
on the 27th of April,
1810, from the designs
of the architect Charles
Barry, who was selected
outof ninety-seven com-
petitors. Mr. Barry's
plan lias often been se-
verely criticised ; but he
built with a view to the
future, and although to-
day his palace stands op-
posite to unsightly rows
of factory chimneys, and
has but a little way from
it some of the vilest
slums of Europe, when
the march of improve-
ment goes up the
Thames, the palace, with
its noble twin, West-
minster Abbey, stands in
INTERIOR OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS.
no danger of being
dwarfed by any structure
which may be placed opposite or near it. bearers of the floor are cast iron, with
The enormous pile covers about eight brick arches from girder to girder. The
acres, and has four principal fronts, the roofs are of wrought-iron cast around
terrace on the Thames being nearly one galvanized plates. The stone of the
thousand feet long. There are eleven wall is unfortunately beginning to decay,
quadrangles or courts, and within the and commissions have repeatedly been
walls are five hundred apartments and appointed for discovering remedies for
eighteen official residences, exclusive of hardening the walls.
The main features of the palace, which by Westminster Hall. In the first days
is of the Tudor style, with hero and of a parliamentary session this hall is
there imitations of the picturesque town- frequently crowded with people from all
halls of the Flemish eities. are the Clock t-lasses of tin 1

London population, who
Tower, at the northern end, which is like wait patiently hours to see the different
that of the Town-House at Brussels, and celebrities pass in, and to cheer and to
the ureal Central Hall, with a stone I t them, as their inclination may
lantern and spire. The Clock Tower is prompt. On such occasions the hall is
one of the features of London; it is linedon two sides with gigantic police-
three hundred and sixteen feet from its men, forming a line through which the
base to the top of the steeple. The deputies of the nation may safely pass
clock has the largest dials in the world, to their labor ; and no matter how im-
and the minute-hand is said to require, portant a place in the social scale a spec-
on account of its great length, velocity, tator may have, if he does not obey the
weight, friction, and the action of the injunctions of these policemen, he is liable
wind upon it, twenty times more force to to be turned out, neck and crop. Mid-
drive it than the hour-hand, which is nine way on the eastern side of Westmin-
feet long. The mellow tones of the great ster Hall is the members' entrance to the
hells of this tower striking the quarters, House of Commons. At the south end
halfs, and full hours, may be heard in a broad (light of steps leads up to St.
nearly all the districts of Loudon, espe- Stephen's porch, and here is a noble
cially at night ; and as long as Parlia- window, the stained glass of which
ment is in session the lime light burns on represents the insignia of the different
the tower's top. sovereigns. On the left there is an
The Victoria Tower, three hundred entrance into St. Stephen's Hall, and
and thirty-six feet high, is covered with the Central Hall, which has an immense
figures which, seenfrom the street, look span of stone Gothic roof, is just beyond.
almost infantine, but which are really Of course there is a royal entrance to
colossal figures, ten feet high. This Parliament, and this is from the Victoria
tower was originally intended as a re- Tower. A staircase leads to the Nor-
pository for the state papers and records man porch, beautifully ornamented with
of the nation, and is divided into eleven statues of kings of the Norman line, and
stories, each of which contains sixteen with frescoes representing scenes in
tire-proof rooms. The roof of the tower Anglo-Norman history. On the right is
weighs four hundred tons. At the portal the Queen's Robing-room, and beyond is
below are great statues of the Lion of tin' royal where those fortu-
gallery,
England, bearing the national banner; nate people who are admitted to see the
and here and there, in the carving, are Queen open or prorogue Parliament wait
the royal arms of England's former until the arrival of the procession, which
sovereigns. Here also are the statues of comes through St. James's Park and
tin' guardian saints. St. George, St. makes its entry through the Victoria or
Andrew, and St. Patrick and in a niche ; royal gallery into the House of Lords.
in the archway over the royal stairs is The Hereditary chamber, which has
the statue of the present Queen. recently seen so many fierce attacks upon
The public entrances to the Houses its very existence, and which bases its
are by the St. Stephen's staircase, and claims to respect chiefly upon its period
of duration, like Thomas Hardy's vil- the canopied niches with pedestals sup-
lager, <>f whom his comrades said " He portedbyangelsbearingshields, illustrated
be might} ancient
7
;
that be his chief

quality." — sits in a
chamber which is
modern when com-
pared even with the
House of Represen-
tatives in Washing-
ton. It was only
completed in LSliO,
and Sir Charles Bar-

ry seems rather to
have overdone the
stained glass, the
escutcheons, the uni-
corns, uhe lions, the
gilding, the poly-
chrome coloring.
Lord Redesdale is
reported to have
said that the House
of Lords resembled
the parlor of a casino.
M. Philippe Daryl,
in a spiteful moment,
remarked that, on
grand days, when
the peeresses fill the
gallery, in their blue
dresses, red flowers
and fans, and pale-
green feathers, the
appearance is that
of a Bohemian glass
shop filled with por-
celain. This spiteful
saying exaggerates DYNAMITE EXPLOSIONS AT THE HOUSE OF COMMONS
IN' LONDON.
the somewhat glar-
ing incongruities of
color and of costume perceptible at an as- with the arms of the barons who won
semblyof rank and fashion on the occasion Magna Charta from KingJohn, the flat ceil-
of a speech from the throne. The three ing with its royal monograms and its heral-
great archways with their wall frescoes, die devices, the walls covered with oaken
r
. )7<; EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
panellings and busts of the sovereigns of of the House of Lords as it appears to

England, the galleries with red metal the comprehension of a cultured Eng-
railings, the great throne at the south lishman :
••
It is not only in the respects
end covered with its pretty scarlet carpel of sumptuous ornamentation, the pres-
bordered with white rows of lions, and ence of ladies full in the sight of as-
fringed with gold colors, the Peers' Lobby sembled legislators, that the interior of
and the Library, a superb range of the House of Lords presents such a con-
rooms, and the decorations of the cor- trast to the House of Commons. There
ridors which lead to the Central Hall is an air of agreeable abandon in the
and thence to St. Stephen's, and so to mien and behavior of their lordships.
the Westminster Hall entrance, arc — The countenances of the members of the
all imposing but scarcely harmonious. House of Commons have, for the most
The throne is of course the chief feat- part, the look of anxiety or preoccupa-
ure of the House of Lords, and is al- tion. They enter their chamber like
ways saluted by a peer upon his entrance men oppressed with the conscious-
as a kind of concession to royalty's ness of responsibility, burdened by a.
omnipresence. There are three divisions despotism of immutable laws and rigid
of the throned canopy. On the central etiquette. There is nothing of the

one the Queen takes her seat; on the sort in the House of Lords, no painful
right, the Prince of Wales ; and the left evidence of the thraldom of cere-
has been vacant since the death of the monial rules or customs, or of the ruth-
Prince Consort. It would require pages less sacrifice of pleasure to duty. The
to describe the decorations of the chairs whole atmosphere is redolent of well-
of state, and the standards, the crests, bred nonchalance and aristocratic re-
the shields, the pedestals, the coronal pose. For instance, there is in theory a
pendants, and the shafts surmounted by Speaker of the House of Lords, called,
crowns. The peers have seats on benches though he always is, the Chancellor,
covered with red morocco leather, which just as there is a Speaker of the House
extend around three sides of the central of Commons; but the functions of the
table. Behind these benches are galler- two are separated by a gulf which is
ies for the wives and daughters of peers, conclusive as to the difference of their
for the press, and for spectators who are relative positions, and also as to the spirit
invited. There are seats for only two in which the business of the two Houses
hundred and thirty-live peers, although is conducted. The Speaker of the House
there are more than double that number of Coin ns issomething more than
in the House of Lords; but the sittina'- primus inter pares. For the time being
space is never crowded. " It is rare," lie is regarded as of a nature different
says Mr. Kscott in his " England," " to from and superior to the honorable
find more than a third of the sittings of gentlemen by whom he is surrounded.
the House of Lords occupied. There is Though there is nothing which the House
no need for members, as in the House of of Commons likes better than a personal
Commons, to come down a couple of encounter, or a vituperative duel between
hours before the business of the day any two members, there is nothing
begins and bespeak places for themselves approaching to disrespect of the gentle-
by affixing a card." man who is the first commoner in
Another quotation from Mr. Escott's England, the custodian and embodiment
able work will give us a capital notion of its privileges, that it will tolerate.
The Speaker of the House of Commons whose duty is to keep a list of those
is, in fact, (he commissioner-in-chief of present. Private bills are first con-
the privileges and prerogatives of the sidered, the stranger gaining nothing
House of Commons, whom the House from the mumbling formula that the
has accorded to make the depositary of Chancellor reads, except thai the ••C'on-
its ceremonial interests. To
the Lord Chancellor no such
trust has been delivered. The
peers area self-governed body,
the preservers of their own or-
cler,and the protectors of their
own privileges. Though the
keeper of the Queen's conscience
may sit enthroned in majesty on
the wool-sack, he is not fenced
round by a divinity sufficient to
deter noble lords from lounging
indolently at half-length upon
its well-padded sides. Save for
the dignity of his garb the Chan-
cellor might be nothing more
than a Chancellor of the Court.
Unlike the Speaker in the House
of Commons his lordship does
not decide who shall have prior-
ity. When more than one peer
rises their lordships keep order
for themselves. The Chancel-
lor has not even a casting vote
when the numbers in a division
are equal, and his only strictly
presidential duty is to put the
.ioiix BUIGHT.
question, and read the titles of From Photograph by Elliott & Fry, London.
measures. On the other hand
he is the direct representative of ro3'alty on tents " have it; and then business pro-
all occasions when 1 lie sovereign communi- ceeds very much in the same order as in
cates with Parliament, and he is the repre- the House of Commons, with the ex-
sentative official mouth-piece of the House ceptions above noted in the paragraph
of Peers when they hold intercourse with from Mr. Escott's volume. The Minis-
public bodies or individuals outside." terial Whip, or whipper-in, or, to be more
When the Lord Chancellor takes his explicit, the able gentleman who makes
seat, which is shortly after four o'clock. it his business to see that members are
he wears a red robe and an ermine on hand for party purposes at the
mantle, a tremendous wig, and three- proper moments, is as prominent a
cornered hat. At his feet are seated feature of the House of Lords us of the
clerks in magisterial robes, and on the Lower House. The spiritual peers, the
right of the wool-sack is another clerk, bishops, and the gathering of Privy
Councillors and sons of peers in the legislative bodies. They have already
space iii the Strangers' Gallery are feat- had a foretaste of what they may expect
ures which will strike an American as in the heated and animated speeches of
very odd and curious. Lower
In the some of their members on the questions
House forty is a quorum; in the Upper of the extension of the franchise and
House, three. In the Lower House par- the redistribution. In both Houses there
ticular notice is required for the asking is a tendency to attack discussion of
of questions of ministers, and the rule even the most vital crisis in the slow,
is very rigid ; but in the Upper House formal, and elaborate manner which
members of the Opposition embarrass never ceases to surprise the stranger, no
thegovernment with as many questions matter how many times he may have
as they like. "What is the use of assisted at the beginning of such a dis-
privileges unless one can employ cussion. England opposes what might
them? So think the noble lords who paradoxically lie called the force of her
disdain the rigidity of the Commons. inertia against the immediate settlement
Nowadays the taking of a division in of pressing questions and she does it
;
tin' House of Lords is very similar to with great effect. Go back to 18G7,
that in the Commons. The "Contents," and you will find that Parliament had
as the " Ayes" are called, go down into just finished the slow and steady discus-
the right lobby, and the " Non-Contents," sion and adoption of the Reform Bill.
— the "Noes," — into the left lobby ; and, Go forward to 1884, and you will find
as they return, their votes are counted Parliament slowly and steadily adopting
and announced to the Lord Chancellor. the extension of the franchise with
A striking characteristic of the Eng- almost the same forms, the same men.
lish Parliament, and one which renders with slight exceptions, and the enormous
it totally different from that of most slowness noticeable half a generation
legislative bodies, is the calmness and ago. Mr. Bright is in the same hall, on
the gravity with which issues of the the same platform, at Birmingham. He
most tremendous importance are dis- fights the same battle, but it is on a
cussed in the Upper House. The self- slope still further advanced. There has
confidence and poise are founded upon been progress, but it has been a thin red
the long possession of great fortunes, line steadfastly, unwaveringly advanc-
each member who rises to discuss the ing, without fuss or confusion, without
issue feeling somehow convinced that, cheers or excitement progress which ;
whatever happens to the world at large, the nation is content to have slow, be-
or to the British Empire, he will enjoy cause it feels it sure. The nation is
ease and comfort to the end of his days. anxious that iniquities and injustice
This is not the feeling of a member of abroad should be crushed or thrown

the French Senate or the French Cham- aside at lightning speed ; hut at home it
ber of Deputies, nor of the German is willing to wait, ready to adopt coin-
parliamentary bodies, nor of any conti- promises, make sacrifices, everything in
nental assemblies for deliberative pur- favor of the good old motto " Festina
poses. When the noble lords enter into lente." Nothing surprises Parliament.
a discussion of the reform of the tenure It is a cynical, blasi body, willing
of landed property in Great Britain they enough to engage in a contest, but de-
will perhaps appreciate the lack of calm- termined not to be shaken out of its
ness sometimes perceptible in continental primitive and abiding calm.

EUROPE 7.V STORM AND CALM. 579
CHAPTER SIXTY-FIVE.
The Irish Members. —
The House of Commons. The Speaker. — —
The Peers and the Creation of New
Peers. — The Passfcm for the Possession of Lund. —
An Active Session.- -Procedure. — Bringing
In Bills.
THE Irish Question does not alarm news of the utmost consequence : in short,
the British Parliament. Go back there are no poseurs in English polities
to 1807, and you will find the government as there are none in English literature or
passing a bill for suspending Habeas inEnglish art." The Rt. Hon. gentleman
Corpus in Ireland. You will read long who comes down in evening dress, re-
debates on perturbed affairs in the sister freshed by his frugal dinner, to the
island. Go forward to 1881, 1882, 1S83, House of Commons, and who with a
and 1884, the same discussions are re- flower in his button-hole sits listening to-
opened, the same rigorous measures of some country

the lengthy platitudes of
coercion are applied, the same dogged members, betrays but small impatience
determination is manifest ;
yet progress when he rises to respond to some silly ac-
has been made ; concessions where not cusation or groundless criticism.Prime
unreasonable have been accorded. Go Ministers England accept with meek-
in
back again to 18G7, you will find Parlia- ness a vast amount of flummery and tin-
ment discussing the question of an ex- infinity of useless to which
questions
pedition of Abyssinia. Go forward again they are subjected. But when they at-
to the last twelve months, and you will tack the business on hand, whether it be
find the Committee of Supply discussing the extension of the franchise or the rec-
the credits of an expedition to the Sou- tification of a frontier, they stale tin-
dan. The same programme of the asser- case with extreme plainness, rarely with
tion of the national strength, of pushing- any flowers of rhetoric, although Lord
forward the national trade, of increasing Beaeonsfield sometimes remembered his
the circle of the British Empire's influ- ancient floridness of metaphor in his later
ence, has been steadily pursued during speeches. Nothing can be more strik-
the half generation with but little inter- ing than the plainness with which orators
ruption because of the ups and downs of like Mr. Gladstone and Mr. Bright ex-
ministries, with, on the whole, but few press their ideas. There is elegance in
approaches to danger. The total lack tone and inflection and in look, but none
of the dramatic faculty in the mass of of the passionate or flowery utterances
English politicians is noticeable to any of a Gambetta or a Castelar. The chil-
one who has long lived among Continen- dren of the north, while they appre-
tal people. M. Daryl puts down in his ciate eloquence, set it coolly aside in
note-book on the occasion of his first their own discussions and statements in
visit to the lobby of the House of Com- Parliament. A hero is praised, but not
mons, that u no one assumes an air of in exaggerated terms. There is a sense
importance, no one rushes away with of the dignity of the place and the occa-
frenzied air, as if about to communicate sion always noticeable in speeches of
Parliament except in those that ;m ex- ling studies called • The Point of View,"
cited Irish member, a noble marquis, makes an American citizen, wearied with
or a piping little lord may indulge in, — Europe's petty divisions and formulas,
language which they afterwards regret, indulge in some pleasantries at the ex-
just as Mr. Chamberlain sometimes lakes pense of the British House of Commons,
the bit in his teeth, and wishes he had which is discussing at great length the
not But within the walls of
later on. Ilares-and-Rabbits Bill, the Deceased
Westminster Palace decorum of speech, Wife's Sister's Bill, the Burials Bill,
if imi always of actiou, is the rule. In and other things which, he adds, are of
the t'aee of sneh an issue as that about to such infinitesimal importance. There
lie decided in Central Asia, where two are indeed seasons when the British
opposing forces seem -wilh resistless Parliament seems to confine its atten-
attraction approaching each other for a tion to matters belter fitting the con-
final and desperate crash, the English sideration of a town council or a body
Prime Minister, although realizing that of " selectmen," as we say in New Eng-
Ins ministry for the moment docs not land ; but there are also long periods
stand upon a secure foundation, slates during which every evening, when Par-
witli utmost calmness, and with ex- liament sits, is occupied with questions
ceeding brevity just exactly what Eng- of far-reaching influence, and the greatest
land is prepared to do. In France lie gravity, ami lo pore over the verbatim
would expect to lie talked about in the reports of last night's session in the
new-papers for a week after this declara- "Times" is enough to convince one that a
tion. Enthusiastic reporters would de- conscientious member of Parliament
scribe his attitude, his dress, and his must study the history of the whole uni-
gestures when he made an important verse. He knows more about the Antip-
.statement. Old anecdotes would be odes than he knows about White
furbished up and made to do duty anew. Chapel, and he hears more talk of the
In England he goes home quietly at Mauritius, the Bermudas, the Afghan
three in the morning, after an exhaust- frontiers, and the Upper Niger, than of the
ive uight, lo his official residence, and pollution of the Thames, or the rebuild-
nothing is said about his personality in ing of Soho, or the condition of the
the morning papers. When, as in recent poor in Liver] 1 ; in short, the Parlia-
times, the ebullition of a certain small ment is Imperial first and local after-
party, like the Irish members ill the wards. It does not occur to the Ameri-
House of Commons, causes a conflict can mind that England is an Empire
and a. necessity for answer to swiftly until one gels into Parliament, and hears
given and generally odious accusations, tin nstauf repetition of Imperial and
the calmness of the Ministry seems to of Empire.
increase rather than to diminish, and It is difficult to reconcile the pre-
(he imperturbability of the Speaker is dictions of Radical gentlemen that the
beyond reproach. Mr. Gladstone has House of Lords will some day thwart
lailei-ly hail his influence with a grim the will of the people, ami will then be
good-humor t" enforce the closure, swept away, with the continuous creation
which is recognized as an heroic remedy of peers by cabinets headed by illus-
against the delay of public business. trious commoners like Mr. Gladstone
Mr. Henry .lame--, in one of his spark- himself. The creation of these peers is
set down as one of the necessities of Durham. In 1874 the people of Dur-
political life ; and it is accepted as per- ham asserted their independence and
fectly natural that a great orator or a rejected Sir John. He was at once
plutocrat, who has gathered to himself created Lord Hampton. Colonel Wilson
ample acres, should sit in the body to Pallen, another old colleague, had to be
which belong the princes of the blood provided for, so he was created Lord
royal, all the dukes, marquises, earls, Wilmarleigh. The Ormsby Gores had
viscounts, and barons of the realm. A done much for the Tories in Shropshire
peer made out of an orator who is
is and other counties, and the late Lord
needed iu the House of Lords, as was the Harlech had his reward in his elevation
case with Lord Derby. The Gladstone to the Upper House, in 1876. Mr.
ministry has created sixteen peerages in John Tollemache had long served the
three years ; the preceding ministry made Tories in Cheshire and Suffolk he had ;
forty-three peers in six years, and of his reward the same year by being created
their numbers was Mr. Disraeli, elevated Lord Tollemache. Mr. Gerard had helped
to the title of Lord Beaconstield. The to score for Lancaster he became Lord
;
Gladstone Cabinet, before that, made Gerard. Mr. Hilton Joliffe, whose seat for
thirty-six peers in five years, and one Wells was abolished by the last Reform
peeress, the Baroness Burdett-Coutts. Bill, was consoled with the title of Lord
Lord Beaconsfield himself said, in one Hylton. Sir Charles Adderley retired
of his early novels, that the English from the ministry and became Lord Nor-
peerage was due to three sources, — the ton. Mr. Disraeli became Earl of Bea-
spoliation of the Church, the open and consfield; Lord Cairns became Earl
flagrant sale of its honors by the elder Cairns and Mr. Gathorne-Hardy became
;
Stuart, and the boroughmoiigering of our Viscount Cranbrook." This same writer
own " These," he added, " are
times. makes the assertion that, since the acces-
the three main sources of the existing sion of the House of Hanover, a very
peerages, and, in my opinion, disgraceful large portion of the modern aristocracy,
ones." Mr. Disraeli used his scornful probably one-half, owe one or more titles
phrase before successive Reform bills had to the exercise of electoral intimidation.
made Parliament a cleanlier body than But whatever influence the House of
of old. "But it is still true," says an Lords may be disposed to exercise is
able Radical writer, " that the exercise more than neutralized by the constant
of electoral influence is the surest road and deliberate attempts of the House of
House of Lords." This same
to the writer Commons to bring up the laboring classes
says " "When the Tories were in
: office, to a position where they can defend
in 1866, several peers were created who their rights, and to actually place their
owe their titles to political partisanship, rights in their own hands, as has been
and. from 1874 to 1880, the large-acred done iu the case of the agricultural
Tories had a rare time of it. while laborers by the passage of the recent.
superannuated or incompetent colleagues Franchise Bill.
of the minister were elevated into the The passion for the possession of land
House of Lords when offices could not by men who have accumulated much
be found for them. For nearly forty wealth in England surpasses all other
years Sir John Parkington sat for passions. For a long time to come, des-
what was once the pocket-borough of pite the agrarian agitation, the owner-
ship of land will be the basis of power windows painted with the arras of the
and influence and the stepping-stone to boroughs, with the green glass compart-
a fixed place among the nobility. It is incuts in its ceiling, tinted with floreated
said that out of one great manufacturing circles, and with its Hour of perforated
establishment in South Wales two peer- cast-iron. "It is impossible," says
ages and a baronetcy have been pro- Mr. Timbs in his "Curiosities of Lon-
duced during the present century. This don," " to burn the House down. Yon
was brought about by the absorption of might set fire to and destroy the furni-
all the hind in the neighborhood by the ture and fittiugs, but the flooring, walls,
wealth of Welsh iron-masters. A
the ami would remain intact." Mr.
roof
Mr. Loyd, who went up to London own- Timbs did not think of dynamite; even
ing no acres at all, leaves as his sue- that, as we have recently seen, can do
cessor a son owning more than thirty hut comparatively slight damage. On
thousand acres of land in eleven different three sides of the House are galleries for
counties, and a seat in the House of members hundred
and. strangers, the six
Lords. The law and the army furnish and odd M.P.s having scarcely
fifty
from time to time able recruits to the three hundred seats around the table,
Upper House; and there are also what upon which lie the papers and docu-
are called the Civil Service peerages, incuts, and just behind which, at the
There distinguished servants of the head of the room, Mr. Speaker is en-
Crown are placed to give the country the throned upon a kind of Gothic chair on
advantage of their experience, legal and a platform. The reporters are huddled
general. Since 1859 the House of Lords into a small gallery over the Speaker's
has had added to its ranks Lords Raglan, chair, and above them is a little cage, out
Civile, Strathearn, Sandhurst, Napier, of which the ladies are allowed to look,
Magdala, Airey, Wolseley, and Alcester. as Oriental dames peer through the mys-
Historians, poets, and novelists, and terious Turkish towns.
lattices of At
such small-beer, rarely reach the House the north end of the House is the Har,
of Lords, unless they are also important and there sits the Sergeant-at-Arms, a
wire-pullers ami distinguished politi- terrible and important functionary. On
cians. the Speaker's right, on the front bench,
The House of Commons in tin' midst sit the ministers ; on the left front bench,
of an active session looks like a modern the leaders of the Opposition, the Ins
chapel which has been taken possession fronting the Outs so closely that even a
of by a company of practical
genteel whisper can be heard. Below the Speak-
inen who feel somewhat out of place, er's chair stands the Clerk's table, on
If the great House of Representatives which lies the Speaker's mace while the
inWashington, with its noise, its sudden session is in progress; ami on either
darting to ami fro of pages, the clapping side of the House runs the lobby, into
of hands, and the buzz of voices from which, at members pass,
a division, the
the galleries, is confusing to he t si ranger, the • Ayes " tO the west, the " Noes" to
the British House of Commons is simplv the cast. This has been the home of
bewildering. Ushered through the brill- the Lower House of Parliament since
iant lobby into one of the dark galler- 1852, and here the sec 1 and third
ies, the visitor looks down upon a small stages of parliamentary reform have
and compact hall with its twelve side been originated anil pushed through.
The procedure in the House of Com- down from the clubs and from their
mons is simple enough, but too long houses, anil by placing a. card in the
for detailed description here. " The brass rack on a seat, or leaving papers
House," says Mr. Escott, "is at once or gloves, they secure a good place for
a mirror and epitome of the national the evening's work. The presentation
life. There is no rumor of any sort, of petitions is simple in the extreme, and
soeial, commercial, diplomatic, or politi- is often merely the inscription of the
cal, which does not make its way into the subject and its origin, says Mr. Escott,
lohhv of tin' House." " Before the '
on a piece of paper, sent to the report-
House," says Mr. Palgrave, "passes ers' gallery. There are, however, official
yearly every national anxiety." In the books on the table in front of the Speak-
House of Commons originates the taxa- er's chair for the reception of these
tionof the realm, and there also are important documents. A member who
born most of the bills which directly wishes to be troublesome can have the
affect home polities. A member of Par- petition read out at length by one of the
liament gets no compensation for his clerks at the table. Next come notices of
services, and the unhappy men who motions relative to questions, resolutions,
try to follow their regular professions or bills; and these motions illustrate in
and keep pace with political life very the amplest manner the inconvenience of
often break down under the strain, or having a responsible ministry that sits
arc compelled to neglect their private in either House. The time and patience
interest, and thus to travel on the verge of wasted over these absolutely formal and
ruin. A conscientious memberof Parlia- generally useless questions it is impossible
ment has to work in committee in the to estimate. As there are always more
morning, and if he does not go to secure motions than can be handled readily;
one of the three hundred regular seats, or members have to ballot for days on
a eoigue of vantage in the members' gal- which they may present their motions ;
lery while the chaplain is saying prayers and many bores are thus eliminated.
at four o'clock at each session, even if he Tuesdays and Fridays are for motions.
only comes in after dinner, he will find Mondays and Thursdays are govern-
his strength alltaken by the long ses- ment nights, Wednesday is open for hills
sion,which on several days in the week only, not for motions; but on this day
docs not close before two and three in Parliament rises before dinner and does
the morning. The 1
scene in the Com- not sit again in the evening.
mons, with these politicians of the three The bringing in of bills and carrying
kingdoms, some lounging, some sitting them through their different stages to
erect in correct morning' or in faultless makes them Acts

the loyal assent, which
evening dress, and every one, excepting of Parliament, is attended with numer-
the person who happens to be speaking, ous formulas, which come from the old
with his hat jammed over his eyes, is Norman procedure. When a bill having
rather amusing. The daily programme passed through the various stages in the
is usually the same. Before the dinner Commons is sent up to the Lords, the
hour, which grows later every year in clerk of the Commons indorses on it
London, petitions and private bills are " Soi aux seigneurs;" and a bill
bailli
in order. If an important debate is sent down from the Lords to the Com-
expected, after dinner, members (lock mons is indorsed in the same way. When
a bill lias passed through both Houses, stances, where the Koyal assent is re-
and Majesty has given its consent in fused to a bill, the Clerk says, "ia
person to its being made law, it' it be Reigne s'avisera." (The Queen will
a bill of supply, the Clerk reads forth the think about it.) All private and per-
French phrase : " La Reigne remercie sonal bills are passed upon petitions,
sis hmis suji'ls. (trrejiti'itt bur bi'iu'-roji'iii'i', and many of them have to be advertised
etainsile veult." To other public bills in newspapers, especially if there is any
the form of assent is, " La Reigne b- interference proposed with land or with
veult;" to private bills, " Soi fait other property.
comme il est desire." But in rare in-
EUROPE IS STORM AND CALM. 585
CHAPTER SIXTY-SIX.
The Treasury Whip. — Parliamentary Forms. —
Oddities of the House of Commons. Authority of the —
Speaker. —
The Home Rule Members. —
Irishmen in London. —
Anomalies of English Represen-
tation. — " Reform." —
The Reconstruction of London's Municipal Government.
THE Treasury
agent who
Whip, or
attends to
the party
the as-
only on
national.
occasions
The
when
dignity of the
the issue
House
is
is
sembling of the majority for the govern- rarely startled out of its equilibrium, al-
ment during any important debate, is though in recent years, under the vexa-
more active and indispensable in the tions of the Home Rule party, and the
House of Commons than in the House strong and sweeping accusations made in
of Lords. He has an office hard by the the heat of the struggle for direction of
Parliament, whence he can send forth the foreign policy or for the franchise bill,
lithographed notices by scores, whipping there have been wrangles and disputes
into the ranks the deserters and neg- quite as singular and as much to be dep-
ligent ;and in many cases he sends recated as those which often occur in
despatches hundreds, even thousands of legislative chambers in Latin countries.

miles. A
prominent member of Parlia- But those who wish an elaborate des-
ment from Nice or Naples at
will travel cription of the procedure in the House
the summons of the Whip without com- of Commons, will find it in Mr. Escott's
plaining, and it is amusing to notice the excellent book, already referred to, or
precipitation with which active members in many a compendium of Parliamentary
bolt their dinners at the club and depart law. The House is full of formulas
from the comfortable bachelor palaces in handed down from generations when
the gustiest and muddiest of weather so monarchy was by no means so limited as
soon as the summons is heard. After it is to-day in its prerogatives, the
a great discussion, when the issue is to manner of going into committee, by
be decided by a division, the lobbies of replacing the Speaker for the time being
the House of Commons seem like the by the Chairman of the ways and means
ante-chambers of a palace on fire. being one of themost interesting of
People are rushing to and some to fro, these survivals. comes, Mr. Escott
It
summon, others to answer summons. tells us, from the old days of the Tudor
The legislators of the Kingdom master and the Stuart despotism. The Speaker's
as obediently as school children under motion " That I do now leave this
the Peers' gallery, and then divide to chair" is based upon the old exclusion
right and left into their respective lob- of the King's emissary and spy, their
bies, after which the door-keepers in- speaker, win mi the Commons did not
dulge in an exploration in the hall and choose to have in their midst when they
even look under the benches to sec if were engaged in important committee
any member has forgotten his duty. work. The presence of the ministry in
Back again come the voters, sometimes Parliament, the acceptance or rejection
with the tumult of triumph manifest, bul by the government of clauses and
,
58(5 EVROTK IX STORM AND CALM.
amendments in bills, the constant decla- pact Irish party undertook the obstruc-
rations of the Government's policy, and tion of public business by a campaign
the lengthy and evasive speeches of the such as only the Celtic mind, with its
Premier or of bis right-hand man, when whimsical love of fun, and its ingenuity
the Ministry desires not to commit itself when bent on annoyance, could devise.
— all these are strange, and striking to The adoption of the closure, bor-
the stranger, but seem perfectly natural, rowed from French parliamentary prac-
and the only proper way to the English tice, was much criticised when first
mind. In fact, nothing can exceed the brought into operation ; but it has on
rigidity of the English belief that things the whole worked well. It must be
arc done England as they should be
in conceded that a parliamentary body has
done, and that foreign ways, if they dif- the right to force a decision as to the
fer from English ways, must necessarily closing of a discussion which is sterile
be erroneous. and when public business is

profitless,
One of the oddities of the House of delayed and pressing. The Irish rejoin-
Commons is that the Speaker cannot der to this is of course that all is fair in
leave lus chair for the evening until the war, in anything which hinders the
adjournment is formally moved, and if action of England, and, furthermore, that
Mr. Biggar, or other of the enemies of (Mil Ireland will not getherrights unless
the present. Speaker, could manage to pre- she insists upon thrusting them on the
vent the moving of adjournment until public view at any and all hours. Frosty
all the members had left, the Speaker and well-bred Mr. Parnell, with his
would stand an excellent chance of re- keen incisive way of speaking, his
maining in his place all night. It is polished manners, and his imperturbable
recorded that was once
the House temper, is now ami then somewhat
deserted save by the Speaker himself, embarrassed by the action of the more
who had to sit on ami on until a mem- impulsive members of the Irish group,
ber of Parliament should be hunted up, some of whom would, if they dared, dance
and brought in to make the necessary a jig on tin Speaker's table, and play leap-
motion. .Mr. Escott tell us that when frog over the venerable Premier's shoul-
the House session is closed for the ders, if they thought that by so doing they
night, t'ne Speaker, "rising from his could cause a, check in the management
chair, bows to the Secretary of the of public affairs. It is noteworthy that
Treasury, who acts as his adjutant, and when an Irish member has something
who returns obeisance. Immediately definite to say, and says it in a manly
after this is audible the cry of ' Who and straightforward fashion, he is almost
goes home?' a relic of those times when always listened to, if not with sympathy,
members of Parliament used to make up at least with courtesy, and the present
parties for the homeward journey to Premier is extremely painstaking in his

protect themselves against the attacks of responses even to the youngest of the
highwaymen. The police in the lobbies, boisterous company. Several very young
however, do not echo this shout, Imt men have been returned to the Home
simply announce that House is up.'
" ' Pule Party in Parliament, and among
The authority of the Speaker lias Keen them is a son of the famous novelist and
much more definite and pronounced since essayist, Justin McCarthy, and T. P.
L881 at which period the small but com-
. O'Connor, who possesses real eloquence,
and who, although he wrote a bitter and Irish voters are compelled to appear in
savage book on Lord Beaconsfield, person if objected to at the revision

actually possessed the g l-will and courts, and there is a system of legalized
possibly the admiration of Disraeli until conspiracies for disfranchising objections,
his latest day. The loyal Irishmen, similar to those which were kept up by
those who do not affiliate with the Sepa- the action of the House of Lords and
ratists and Home Killers, are as fire- its confederates in Great Britain until
brands and more patriotic
to their noisier public opinion swept them away. Mr.
brethren, who never fail to engage in a Justin McCarthy was returned from
contest which perhaps has been merely Athlone, which has six thousand nine
hinted at in some very mild remarks. hundred inhabitants, by three hundred
Many of the young Irish members find and sixty-five electors; Mr. Dawson,
their parliamentary laurels rather diffi- from Carlow, with seven thousand inhab-
cult to wear. In London they are en- itants, by three hundred and eight elect-
vironed with an atmosphere of dislike ors Mr. Moore, from Clonmel, which
;
which no sensitive man can long endure has ten thousand population, by four
without feeling resentment and allowing hundred and thirty-four voters; Mr.
it to warp his judgment; and, further- O'Donnell, from Dungarvan, by three
more, as they have no compensation and hundred and ten electors, out of seven
little time for professional work of any thousand population Mr. Kenny, from ;
sort, they accumulate obligations more Ennis Mr. Laver, and Mr. T. P. O'Con-
;
pressing than those which they have nor, the last two from Galway, which has
towards their constituencies. nearly nineteen thousand inhabitants,
The Home Rule members of the Irish by one thousand one hundred and twenty-
representation in Parliament are twenty four electors Mr. Smythwick, from Kil-
;
in number, and itAmerican

is to an kenny, Mr. Collins, from Kinsale, and
curious to note the small number of The O'Donoghue and Messrs. Mac-
electors in comparison with the popula- Mahon, Gabbitt, O'Brien, Redmond
tions of the districts by which they were Power, Leamy, W. II. Redmond, and
placed in office. Hut a little more than Sir John McKcnna, by electors in about
fivethousand electors voted to put John the same proportion as the others.
Deasy ami Mr. Parnell in Parliament as The English representation in the Par-
the representatives of Cork, which has liament of Great Britain is divided into
one hundred thousand inhabitants. Put, that from cities, boroughs, and districts,
in considering the number of electors, and that from counties and divisions ;
we have to remember that large numbers and in the last session of Parliament
of electors in Ireland were permanently one hundred and seventy-nine cities,
disfranchised as a condition of Catholic boroughs, burghs, and districts, possess-
emancipation, and that it took the pens ing an aggregate population of three
until 1850 to decide that it was safe to million two hundred and eighty thousand
allow the Irish suffrage to be lowered to three hundred and thirty-eight, and sub-
a £12 rental, which has been retained at mitting to aggregate assessments of
this figure ever since that time ; and not something like £38,000,000, had in Par-
later than 18.s:i a bill for the assimila- liament two hundred and thirty mem-
tion of Irish to English electoral rights bers, who were returned by four hun-
was thrown out. It is also true that dred forty-three thousand six hundred
and seven electors; seventy-two cities, in the kingdom. ... It is prepos-

boroughs, burghs, and districts, having terous that forty-two little boroughs
eleven million five hundred and thirty- should send forty-two members to the
seven thousand one hundred and twenty- House of Commons, while the nineteen
four population, and an aggregate elector- great citizen boroughs, with more than
ship of one million five hundred and two twenty-seven times the population, and
thousand four hundred and thirty-six. as with twenty-live times more electors, and
well as an aggregate assessment of assessed at nearly fifty times the amount
£253,710,700, returned but one hundred of income tax, have Iv one more rep-
and thirty members ; ninety-eight coun- resentative. To secure a real representa-
ties and divisions, with seven million tion of the people one thing is essentially
four hundred and ninety-four thousand requisite, namely, electoral districts,
eight hundred and three population, and doing away with the distinction between
an aggregate electorship of four hundred counties and boroughs, whose real and
and eighty-seven thousand three hundred permanent interests are identical."
and eighty-seven, and aggregate assess- During the recent campaign in favor
ments of £102,427,491, returned one of the extension of the franchise, and
hundred and fifty-eight members ; while while the plan for redistribution was be-
sixty-one other counties and divisions, ing arranged, a list of one hundred and
with twelve hundred and
million live sixty towns and places, each one of
forty thousand seven hundred and which had more than ten thousand popu-
seventy-seven population, seven hundred lation, but none of which had direct
aud fifty-seven thousand one hundred representation in Parliament, or were
and twelve aggregate electorship, and incorporated for parliamentary purposes
an aggregate assessment of twenty- with represented cities, boroughs, or dis-
five per cent, larger than that of the tricts, was published. These one hun-
whole ninety-eight other counties and dred and sixty towns had an aggregate
divisions, returned but one hundred population of three million two hundred
and twenty-live members. This will and ninety-seven thousand two hundred
strike any one as a curious anomaly and ; and seventeen, exceeding that of the
" these figures demonstrate," says a writer seventy-two boroughs ami cities, which,
in the ••Financial Reform Almanac," as we see above, were represented by
••
with equal clearness, first,the mon- one hundred and thirty members. Vet
strous anomalies of our present electoral they had no voice in Parliament what-
system : and. secondly, the folly of our ever; whilst the latter sent seventy-two
pseudo-philosophers, who imagine that members to the House of Commons
the only true principle of representative alone. A striking illustration of the
government, namely government by manner in which the system worked is
majorities, is erroneous, and ought to he furnished by St. Helens, which has a

partially nullified by minorities. They ha\ e population of nearly sixty thousand in-
so far succeeded by means of their three- habitants but no member in Parliament :
cornered crotchet as to place the great while Port Arlington, with scarcely two
towns of Birmingham, Liverpool, Leeds, thousand five hundred inhabitants, has
Glasgow, and Manchester on a footing just as much vote-power as Manchester.
of perfect equality, as regards the vote lint the House of Commons is indus-
power, with the most insignificant place triously reforming itself, and reforming
out of existence the privileges which Bill, in its present shape, is the result of
have so long kept millions of men who a compromise, which seems to have been
should have been voters practically non- somewhat suddenly resolved upon, and
voters and the Distribution Bill, which
; to which the leading statesmen of both
has been led into the public view by the parties will adhere, because they feel in
new-born Franchise Bill, is to sweep with honor bound to do so, although, on
a vigorous broom the old constituencies. second thought, they may not find the
All boroughs which have less than fifteen measure the best that could have been
thousand inhabitants are to be merged proposed. Parliament professes to have
in surrounding county districts ; those been anxious to secure a. substantial
boroughs with less than fifty thousand representation of minorities, and of all
inhabitants are to have but one member important interests, and that it can do
each and those between fifty and one
; so by separating the rural from the
hundred and sixty-five thousand are to urban voters.
retain two members each. All urban The history of England lor the past
constituencies with more than one hun- thirty years may be said to represent a
dred and sixty-five thousand inhabitants, constant progress towards electoral re-
and all counties, without exception, are form, and towards an amelioration of the
to be divided into districts, represented abuse consequent on the maintenance
each by a single member. Both Sir of privileges, — progress checked and
Stafford Northcote and Lord Salisbury hindered, sometimes absolutely set aside,
are understood to adhere warmly to this by the pressing anxiety of attending to
plan, which has nevertheless been tried affairs abroad. England is willing and
with small success for several years in able to set her house in order, but every
the French Parliament. Gambetta tried time she takes the mop in hand, and
with all his might to break up thesingle- has made ready to goon with the cleans-
member constituencies, and to substitute ing, a disturbance outside calls her
for Scrutin d' Arrondissement the Scrutin forth, ami the internal economy must
da Liste ; in other words, to build a com- suffer for the time being. Two great
pact and vigorous party which could be parties in the enormous metropolis of
handled and controlled by the usual London are at present eager to do battle
party agencies, rather than to allow- the over the question of municipal reform.
continuance in office of a set of petty The absorption, the concentration, the
representatives, each committed to all the centralization party finds itself con-
hobbies, and possibly all the faults, of fronted by the passionate admirers of
his small group. Liberals like the late the vestry system. The old-fashioned
Mr. Fawcett, after a careful survey of and amiable gentlemen who have long
the Redistribution Bill proposed by their been prominent in vestry affairs look
party, decided that they could not give forward with horror and with some little
it their support. Mr. Courtney even contempt to the advent of professional
resigned his office as Secretary of the politicians; and the question would be
Treasury, and when lie did so said that decided within a year, doubtless in
Mr. Fawcett, if lie had lived, would have favor of the centralizing party, were
retired from the postmaster-generalship it not for the constant aggravation of
as an indication of his disbelief in the the Egyptian problem, ami the necessity
one-member system. The Redistribution for the nation to concentrate its strength
upon extension and self-protection aristocratic owners, who have nothing to

abroad. Very likely the Redistribution gain and much to lose by (he march of
Bill has been put hack for a long time popular improvement, — it is to these
by the death of Gordon at Khartoum; things that the delay in the rebuilding of
but, although delayed and harassed London, as Paris and Vienna have Keen
by the peculiar duties which England rebuilt, is to be attributed. No emperor
chooses to assume abroad, the plan of can, with magic wand, cause streets of
liberal reform is never relinquished, palaces to rise where now there are
Dining a period of Con sen-
.six \ ears of grimy acres of three-story, mean-lookinc
ative rule, when Imperialism was thought houses, built of greasy bricks. The
of more importance by those who had landed interests in London clash : they
the governing power in their hands could not be brought harmoniously to
than the correction of abuse and the work in favor of a great improvement,
consequent spread of contentment at and London must wait for its rebirth
home, the Liberals never lost hope, and until the country has passed through its
il..\ took up the unfinished work where bitter experience of agrarian reform,
they had left it when they left power. Doubtless London, like Paris, will al-
Tlie centralization of the city govern- ways be kept more or less under the
meut in Loudon, or, to speak by the card, thumb of Parliament, for it is the capi-
the reconstruction of the government of tal, and, as such, must be subjected to
London by means of a municipal bill, will restrictions and rules to which other
doubtless be taken up by the same Parlia- citiesmight with reason object. But
ment which will have to inaugurate some when some mighty alchymist has melted
of the sternest legislation ever known in up in his crucible of municipal reform
England with regard to the tenure of all the antique plate and jewelry of the
land, and it is not until the tenure of State, and all the formulas and rubbish
land has been changed in its form that of the petty vestries, with their oioss-
the absolute reconstruction of London purposes and their maintenance of old
and of its government can lie hoped for. privileges, there will arise out of the
It is the privileges of gentlemen like the vapors a capital which, while it may
Dukes of Portland, Bedford, and West- not be gifted with the beauty of more
minster ; it is the fact that vast tracts of southern cities, will have a mightand ele-
land within the metropolitan district gance, and a grandeur worthy of the
are in the possession of families from largest collection of human beings in any
whose grasp they will not. under present civilized country,
legislation, be allowed to pass, and of
EUROPE IN STURM AND CALM. .591
CHAPTER SIXTY-SEVEN.
The Evolution Towards Democracy. — Sir Charles and Mr. Chamberlain.
Dilke English Directne —
and Plainness of Speech. — Lord Ilartington. — Mr.Labouchere. —
English Sources of Revenue.
— The Land Tax. How — it is Evaded. — Free Trade in Land. —
Taxing the Privileged Classes.
— The Coming Struggle.
N even the first gentleman in

(IT
England pretends to deny that
the country is formally engaged in tin.'
revolution which will
greater changes than any other country

in Europe has seen in this generation.
bring in its train
gradual evolution towards democracy. Mr. Chamberlain is perhaps, open to the

Now and then some two-penny dema- reproach of too great frankness in
gogue, who wishes to obtain notoriety as pointing out the sweeping reforms or
an agitator, insists that the progress is alterations which are to lie made in the
imaginary rather and that
than real, systems of government and society, lie
nothing can lie accomplished save by rouses an antagonism which otherwise
violent and immediate revolution. Hut might have slumbered contentedly on its
this sort of demagogue is not even con- carved and painted benches. What Mr.
sidered respectable within the limits of Bradlaugh, in his Hall of Science, may-
his own advanced party, and to he thought or may not say , is thought by the mem-
not respectable, in the English sense of bers of the House of Lords of small
the word, is equivalent to the c plete consequence : but when a cabinet minis-
wrecking of one's hopes. Radicalism ter and the Director of the Board of
itself, from the aristocratic point of view, Trade openly a'dvocates changes in the
is naturally thought low. If a gentle- property laws, they are roused not only
man of birthand position like Sir Charles to resentment but to action. There
Dilke, or a gentleman of undoubted ca- never was, in the history of American
pacity and fitness for affairs like Mr. political campaigning, a. more active,
Chamberlain, openly associates with the energetic and determined canvass of a
Radicals, he is qualified as eccentric, but country than that undertaken against

the unwritten and unspoken criticism Mr. Gladstone and his works by the
which those who daily meet these gentle- Marquess of Salisbury, in the autumn
men in the political arena reserve to and siunmer of l.S.St neither is there in
:
themselves, is that their eccentricity is the heat of American political speaking

perilously near the verge of the disrepu- any greater violence of language, or, I
table. hail almost said, vituperation, than was
Sir Charles Dilke and Mr. Chamber- manifest in the speeches of those who
lain, and other advanced standard bear- opposed the Franchise Bill. That state-
ers of the democratic idea, trouble them- liness and elegance of diction in writing
selves but little as to the opinion of the and speaking on political affairs, which
aristocratic class. They occupy them- was once characteristic of the great lords
selves in the most industrious and prac- of the country, has long been conspicu-
tical manner with directing the pacific ous by its absence. It was the firmness
—
M'2 EUROPE JX STORM AND CALM,
of their belief in the durability of their vast empire and destroy our influence
privilege which gave them such self-pos- abroad. Let us not listen to Quakers,
session. Now they begin to see that like Mr. Bright, and Utopian theorists,
the increase in the Dei iracy's power like Mr. Chamberlain, or to shriekers,
fatally means the decrease of their like Mr. Bradlaugh, who would have us
own. concentrate our whole attention upon the
Every well-educated Englishman of poorer classes at home." Between the
Protestant training has that inconven- claims of the old aristocracy and the
ient conscience which will not permit new democracy, — claims so diametri-
hiin, for a long time, even when it is for cally opposed to each other, — a Liberal
his own interest, to measure
advocate a minister of war, like Lord Hartington,
which may do wrong to any one. and must from time to time, suffer great
since the full and frank exposure by the perplexity. A Liberal cabinet, with men
apostles of the new democracy of the within it who believe that England
abuses of privilege which were grafted should send no military forces on con-
upon the land system and upon the quest, and men within it who believe
grounding of political power on the pos- just the opposite thine.', is a divided
session of land, many a lord of high force,which can but suffer from the divis-
degree is beginning to confess that a. ion. That notable English conscience
change would not be unwelcome even which prevails, as we have said, among
to himself. Men like the Marquis of the aristocratic as well as lower down in
Salisbury7 , who have a linn belief in the the social scale, is conspicuous in the
Imperial idea, in the necessity for Eng- case of the Marquis of Hartington, the
land of a constant aggressive attitude, eldest, son of one of the very greatest of
in the perpetuation of Lord Beacons- all Duke of
the English land-owners, the
dangerous policy, comfort them-
field's Devonshire, whose estates extend into
selves with the conclusion that no fourteen different counties, and who
democracy can maintain or direct the owns nearly two hundred thousand
antique policy of Great Britain without acres of land, which give him almost as
having the protection of a governing many pounds sterling as annual rental,
class having leisure, because of its for- who has forty-two church-livings in his
tune got from land, to occupy itself in a gift, six magnificent country-seats,
dignified manner with the conduct of Chatsworth, Hardwick, Holker Hall,
armies and navies, with the regulation Compton Abbey, Lisniore
Place, Bolton
of treaties ami the chess-board games of Castle. —
and Devonshire House in Lon-
diplomacy. "A democracy," so say don. Not more than three centuries
these noble lords, " would place us in the and :i half ago the head of this great
precarious posit ion of a second or third house was an obscure country gentle-
cla^s power in Europe. If we have an man in Suffolk : to-day his descendants
upheaval of the substrata of society, and hold three peerages and two hundred
the accession to power of men who know ami twenty thousand acres of land in
nothing of our old plan of government, England and Ireland. This founder of
wc shall go to war. Give us Beacons- the house was William Cavendish, sup-
licld's came, with its risks and dangers, posed to be he who wrote the life of
rather than the stay-at-home policy of Cardinal Wolsey, and whom Shakespeare
the Radicals, who would break up our mentions. The Cavendishes have always
EUROTE JN STORM AND CALM. 593
had the reputation of being good land- thirty-three, and reflect that he then
lords, and a more touching demonstration held the same office. He was a civil
of affection was never witnessed in Eng- Lord of the Admiralty at thirty ; in fact,
land than at the great gathering of the he was fully up to the level of his ad-
tenants at Chatsworth, when Lord Fred- vantages and improved every one of
erick Cavendish, who had been assassi- them ; when he could not be in active
nated in Ireland, was brought home to political ministry he was willing to be a
be buried. postmaster-general. He is one of those
The Marquis of Hartington, now a who like to do everything thoroughly.
comely gentleman of fifty, is reported If he drives a drag it is faultlessly cor-
to be utterly frank in his opinions as rect in style. lie is a great hunter.
to the future. He was once asked He loves whist, and he enjoys to the
by an American how he could con-
tribute to a current of opinions which
would one day sweep away all mem-
bers of his class, and he answered that
there was no help for it; by which
he doubtless meant that his conscience
compelled him to it. .Such men stand
high in the estimation of both parlies;
at the same time, like the young noble-
man in Mr. Henry James's story, they
have not the remotest notion that all the
revolutions in the world will abate the
amount of their income one jot. Lord
Hartington went into the House of Com-
mons when he was twenty-three ; thence
to St. Petersburg, whither he attended
Earl Granville, who was then ambassa-
dor; in process of time, found himself JOSEPH CHAMBERLAIN.
From Photojrraph by London Stereoscopic Co.
vested with a mission of bringing about
a vote of non-confidence against the
ministry in Parliament ; did it with utmost one of those old-fashioned
much skill : made a parliamentary repu- parliamentary sittings, such as some-
tation, interspersing his political labors times occur over a debate on the
with social enjoyment with the Prince of address, when good sound blows are
Wales, whose elder he was. and with given and taken with perfect temper
whom he has in his time indulged in on either side. A stammering and
many a frolic; and when he was of ma- rather shy speaker, what he says is
ture years stood in the rather unique always telling.
position of being heir to one of the Some degree of the resentment pri-
noblest of the English duchies, in pos- vately cherished against Lord Harting-
session of a vast income of his own. a ton by members of the landed aristoc-
leader of fashion, and an acknowledged racy, who, while they respect, cannot
leader of the Liberals. Minister of war agree with him, is visited openly upon
to-dav, he can look back to the age of new-comers, like Mr. Chamberlain, whole
f:i 1 1< •< 1 with English bluntness a parvenu, blow up bis Sloane-street residence with
and like Sir Charles Dilke, \\ h<> is consid- dynamite. On the continent he is popu-
ered as unreasonably radical. These gen- lar, lie has a country-house near
tlemen occasionally receive verbal easti- Toulon, where he goes to get rid of the
gation from some noble marquis or other melancholy gathered in the London fogs,
able aristocratic politician ; but this only and it. gives him a certain pleasure to
adds fuel to the flame of their enthusi- be interviewed by radical Frenchmen,
asm. Sir Charles Dilke is the brother who attribute to him monstrosities of
of Ashton Dilke, who died some years statement which make the hair of the
ago, and who was far more advanced in aristocratic House of
gentlemen in the
radicalism than the present representa- Lords stand upon end with horror when
tive of the family and owner of the they read them.
'•
Athemvum," — the principal literary There are several gentlemen in the
critical journal of London, — lias ever House of Commons who form an able
presumed to be. Mr. Chamberlain does addition to the little corps of distin-
not in bis speeches talk so much of pos- guished and wealthy Liberals and Radi-
sible republicanism as of practical meas- cals; men like Mr. Labouchere, of
ures for reform in legislation ; but in his large fortune, of consummate journal-
public writings and speeches Sir Charles istic ability, freshness of style, and
Dilke has clearly shown that he likes re- charm of manner, yet with frankness
publicanism with a continental flavor. He born of complete independence, and who
was. even when at the University, thor- tell the truth to shame the devil, no
oughly radical in He adored,
his ideas. matter England be the worse for it.
if
as indeed did every one who met him, Mr. Labouchere is twin member for
the Italian patriot, Mazzini. He is Northampton with Mr. Bradlaugh, and
said to have attempted to convert the has well and firmly stood for bis col-
Prince of Wales to republican opinions. league each time that the great, free-
He hail that symmetrical education thinker and free-speaker has forced

which enables all English gentlemen to his way in only to be expelled again
do so much and many things so well. forthwith from the House of Commons,
To him is due the phrase of "Greater which dislikes to receive him. .Air.
Britain," which has been embodied in Labouchere goes everywhere. Now he

English politics. A man of twenty-live, nun be found at Marlborough House,
he circled the world and made a brilliant getting the latest gossip from the Prince
book. At twenty-six he was a Liberal of Wales, and next he will be heard of
leader in Parliament, and the old family in his place in the Commons, demanding
home in Sloane street was the scene of the full withdrawal of the English troops
many brilliant gatherings of the lights from Egypt. He is a kind of guerilla,
of the literary and scientific society of fighting on him
the side which pleases
Northern Europe. Sir Charles is a best,and always anxious for truth, the
Although a
straightforward politician. word which be has inscribed as the title
good Democrat he docs not sympathize of his picturesque and sparkling journal.
with the Irish demand for separation, Democracy means, among other things,
doubtless prompted by the growth of the a careful investigation into the sources
Democratic feeling in Ireland as in Eng- of revenue and of expenditure in Eng-
land and there have been threats to
; land ; and during the last ten years the
El ROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 595
nation has awakened to the fact that this superabundance of power and pat-
the landed aristocracy has, during its ronage in its hands, the hereditary
long season of privilege, managed to house should frown upon the admission
abate or abolish the greater part of taxa- to the franchise of the two millions of
tion upon its land, and also to convey voters whose liberation must be ac-
into its own family circles neatly all the counted the final triumph of the Demo-
important revenues from government cratic spirit in Great Britain. In England,
service. The statistics on this point quite contrary to the case in Ireland, no
are extremely curious and interesting. great bitterness of feeling seems to
It is confidently asserted that the House enter into the agitation for land reform;
of Lords represents 211 families of but the movement is characterized by
barons, who have 2,492 people, hold- the very greatest determination. The
ing 4,099 offices, receiving from the race question is of course eliminated.
English nation £31,126.188 annually; The farmer, too, has a kind of pity for
GOfamiliesof viscounts, with 963 people, the gentleman who is stranded finan-
holding 1,561 offices, and receiving cially by having left upon his hands the
£11,241,202 per year; 200 families of farms which can be no longer worked
earls, with 3,391 people, holding 5,963 to advantage ; and the farmer looks
offices, with £48,181,202 per annum; with a little .suspicion upon the elevation
33 families of marquises, with 626 of the agricultural laborer to political
persons in 1,252 offices, at £8,305,950 independence. .Such is the respect for
yearly ; and finally, 28 ducal families, rank in England that tb is a kind of
with 519 people, holding 1,013 offices, reluctance to take away, or to hint at
at £9,760,090 every year. Thus the taking away, the broad acres upon which
gigantic total of 10*A millions sterling the ducal and baronial claims and fortunes
remains in the hands or in the disposi- are founded. There is not, nor ever can
tion and gift of the House of Lords. be, the least possibility of a Jacquerie in
What ducks and drakes the coming De- England. The Democracy
is cool and
mocracy will make of this money, and long-headed, and understands that it
how quickly it will wrest it from the must keep itself well in hand to gain its
hands of the hereditary House! The victory by votes, not by shouting and
stinging English statement that the pub- fighting. To fight were hopeless; to
lie service is a house of refuge for the demonstrate in noisy crowds is of com-
poor relatives of the aristocracy is paratively little use. In last summer's
founded upon absolute fact. These ap- campaign each party ridiculed and de-
pointments, represented in the 13,888 nied the authenticity of the other's
offices, which the House of Lords in cue demonstrations in mass meetings. The
way and another disposes of, are in the vote is the tiling, and the Democratic
army, the navy, the church, the uni- voters feel that in time they will lie more
versities, the Colonial and Indian civil than a match for aristocracy and plu-
and military administrations, the es- — tocracy combined.
tablished church furnishing some of the The statistics of land-ownership, and
fattest places. There are hundreds upon particularly in England and Wales, have
hundreds of appointments of £10,000, been very carefully collected by the con-
£5,000, £3,000, £1,500, and £1,200 tending parties since 1872, when the
yearly. It is not astonishing that, with agitation took definite shape. John
mm; EURO I 'E IS STORM AND CALM.
Stuart Mill and John Bright had made Wales; 4,900 men own more than half
many statements as to the monopoly of England and Wales 20 persons own half
;
land in kingdom and so a Parlia-

the ; the county of Northumberland, which
mentary Commission was established to contains 12,200 acres. In Scotland a
investigate the holdings of rentals, and striking instance of land absorption is
came before the public with the aston- that of the Duke of Sutherland, who
ishing; statement that, instead of there owns nearly one-eighteenth [tart of the
being few, there were a great many whole land. In Ireland, out of the
owners of land in the three kingdoms; whole area of twenty million odd acres,
in fact, that there were more than 12 persons own 1,297,888 acres; 21)2
1,100,000 persons, having a combined persons own one-third of the island ; 744
holding of 72,000,000 acres. They own nearly one-half of it ; and two-thirds
took care, however, to exclude such of the land of Ireland is possessed by
parts of certain counties as are included 1,942 people.
in the metropolis of London, which would Thi' aim of the new democracy is free
have made a very great difference in trade in land, the prevention of the ap-
their aggregate. Furthermore, they had propriation of common lands by private
reckoned leaseholders as owners, which, land-owners, very possibly a change in
as a member of Parliament, said at the the system of tenure, increase of land-

time, was very much like calling a hired owners, and the game-laws, the con-
horse an owned horse. They had also version of lands now lying idle to the
tumbled into this curious return of land- supply of food, thus lessening the neces-
ownership all the crown property, the sity for foreign imports, and the bring-
war-offices and railway property, the ing up of the land tax to its old level
asylum, almshouses, charity, poor, and of four shillings in the pound, — a tax
other trustees; church- wardens, parish that was levied by legislation in the
ami police-officers, colleges, ecclesias- time of William and Mary, but that
tical commissions, and dozens of other has been regularly avoided by an in-
bodies or persons who could not officially genious system of allotments and re-
lie defined as owners of land. They demptions ever since. The democratic
also stated the extent of commons and statisticians reckon that some thirty or
waste lands in such a manner as to forty millions might be restored to the
render their whole return untrustworthy annual revenue if the tax-evading land
and misleading. From careful returns owners could be made to pay up. The
made in 1874 it appears that in Eng- redemptions or sales of land tax, at
land ami Wales 12 persons own more eighteen or twenty odd years' purchase,
than 1,0(10,(100 acres; 66 persons, according to value, came in at the time
1,917,076 acres; loo persons possess of Mr. Pitt, who took any means to raise
3,917,641 acres; 280 persons, 5,425,764 money ; and it has been practically main-
acres, or nearly one-sixth of all the en- tained ever since by the system of
closed land in the two countries; 523 quotas. In the south counties of Great
persons own one-fifth of all England Britain the hmd-owners have rarely been
and Wales : 710 own one-fourth of both made pay more than one shilling in
to
countries ; X74 persons possess 9,267,031 the pound many have had to pay but
;
acres ; and 10,207 persons possess two- six pence, some only one penny and ;
thirds of the whole of England and some less than a farthing. The general
EUROPE IN STORM AMD CALM. 597
average for land taxation of Great this is meant by the democratic and
Britain was only one and three-fourths radical in England.
revolution There
pence, in the assessments of 1877—78. is no need to fear bloodshed, or ruin of
" This," says the author of a powerful property. The Englishman is eminently
article on the British Revenue System, conservative, and especially with regard
'•is a pretty account to be given of a tax to the saereduess of property. There
called by act of Parliament one of four will be changes of ownership without
shillings in the pound on the full annual destruction of the things to be owned.
value." In fourteen years of the reign In 183-' the first Reform Bill was
of William III., the whole public income thought by the conservatives to have a
from all sources was £107,437,540, to reign of terror behind it; but 1867 came
which the land tax contributed more slowly to the front and brought no grizzly
than one-fifth of the total amount. But horrors of revolution. The conservative
in 1883 the public income from taxes country squire might say that the prog-
and ordinary receipts amounted t<> £87,- ress of these reforms had indirectly
205,184, to which the land tax con- brought about the dynamite atrocities
tributed but one-eighty-second part of and the revolt across the Irish channel ;
I lie whole. but few would be willing to grant this.

Thus the coming struggle to put the Between 18G7 and 1884 a new England
taxation upon the privileged class, to has been constructed within old England,
modify, substitute, possibly withdraw, but it is still behind the curtain. It will
many of their privileges, to bring into appear in the twinkling of an eye one
the public service new classes of men not day presently, and then all the world
representing special families, or branches will consider its advent natural and
of families, to establish party govern- proper.
ment rather than class government, — all
598 EUROTi: IN STORM AM) CALM.
CHAPTER SIXTY-EIGHT.
Public* and Popular Speakers. —
Spurgeon in his Tabernacle. —
The Temperance Question. The Finan- —
cial Reform League. —
Facta for Rich and Poor. —
Bradlaugh in (he Hall of Science. Republican* —
—
Meeting in Trafalgar Square. Gladstone at a Funeral. " Oh How Dreadful "— Public Meetings
— ! !
in England. —
The Lord Mayor of Loudon. —
Banquets at the Mansion House. The iiy Com- — (
panies. —
" Lord Mayor's Day." —
The Procession.
ALTHOUGH the Radicals are from ual, abounding in homely metaphor,

time to time disposed seoffiugly to yet sometimes mounting to the height of
deny that the House of Commons and genuine eloquence. He sways his tre-
the House of Lords constitute a peo- mendous congregation, made up from the
ple's parliament, they are in no wise lower middle classes of London's shop-
deprived of the most ample opportuni- men, workmen, and women, irresistibly
ties for public and even noisy discus- whichever way he wills. To the thou-
sion of .-ill the questions which vitally sands for whom the higher intellectual
concern Great Britain. The frankness life is scarcely possible he is an unfail-

and plainness of speech so prevalent ing fountain of inspiration, and lie draws
in Parliament, the indisposition to dis- to the huge Tabernacle, as it is called,
guise unsavory truthsby ambiguous perhaps the oddest collection of strangers,

phrases, are still more apparent in the from all parts of the world, that, can be
speeches of public orators not in political found in any building used as a church.
life; and while they do not quite reach Foreigners go out of curiosity, the
the virulence sometimes remarked in the piously inclined visit, the Tabernacle to
addresses of politicians in America, yet judge for themselves of Spurgeon's spirit-
they art extremely plain.

1
We have in ual force, and hundreds of the Arabs of
America heard so much of the inability London, — people homeless and almost
of the English to speak in public freely destitute, men and women from the
and without embarrassment, that it some- slums, — steal into the great galleries as
what surprises an American residing for ifcoming to the sanctuary for a refuge
a short time in London to discover a which they can find nowhere else. Spur-
great number of excellent public orators geon rarely touches directly on the great
outside as well as within the sphere of national topics, but, when he does, his
politics. touch and vigorous. His denun-
is linn
Two men who speak directly to the ciation of a mistaken policy has weight
public heart, whose spheres of influence which is felt up river at Westminster.
are widely different, and whose reputa- In him arc none of the tricks ami follies
tions have passed far beyond the boun- found in the delivery of the fashionable
daries of their native land, merit a clergyman. There is no hesitancy, no
"
moment of our attention. Spurgeon and coughing, ami no interpolation of " Ahs
Bradlaugh are great forces in the metrop- and "Ohs." Indeed, all the great
olis, forces which are undoubtedly used English speakers enunciate their words
for good. Spurgeon is intensely spirit- quite fully and clearly, and with much the
same inflection found in American ora- outside, divided into stalls with high
tors. partitions, the fever for class distinc-
The Metropolitan Tabernacle, in which tions prevailing even in these establish-
Spurgeon preaches, is certainly one of ments. To foreigners, nothing can be
the curiosities of London. It stands in more comfortless than these dens, where
a rather frowzy section of the great city, the new comers constantly crowd out
— where rambling streets, ill-kept, are those who precede them, and where tile
lined with low and dingy houses and as ; language and the atmosphere leave much
the great congregation of nearly seven to be desired. The worthy gentlemen
thousand persons pours out of the Taber- of the Financial Reform Association —
nacle, on .Sunday mornings, it is com- a league established nearly forty years
pelled to pass through a double row of ago for the advocacy of e< imical gov-
degraded men and women, who are wait- ernment, just taxation, and perfect free-
ing impatiently for the opening of the dom of trade — constantly lay before
public houses from one to three o'clock. the people wrought on the
the ruin
The amiable Londoner of the upper nation by the favors heaped upon the
class, wheu asked to give a good reason publican because he contributes so pow-
for the laws regulating the sale of liquor erfully to the revenue. This Reform
on Sunday in the British capital, frankly League says a revolution is needed in
confesses that he knows nothing of it, fiscal matters, when the lands of the
save that it seems planned to promote rich pay but £1,000,000 sterling a year
rather than check intemperance. On a in land tax, while the pipe and pot of
dull Sunday the London workers and the laborer pay £30,000,000 sterling
the equally large class of people out of per annum customs and excise duty
in :
work rise late, and, instead of bending when the rich man's quota of taxation
their thoughts on church and chapel (for is collected from him cheaply and
in England the dissenting churches are directly, but the workingmen's allot-
called chapels, to distinguish them from ment is collected by a system that robs
the established Episcopal church), pace them of still another £10, 000, 000 ster-
the streets or linger at corners, longing ling in the process ; when the lands
for the moment when the Sunday carouse which are bequeathed by the rich at
may begin. In the mid-day hours the death pay no probate and little succes-
gin-palace doors swing widely open, long sion duty, but the savings of the people
processions of miserably clad people in the lower and middle classes are taxed
hasten to and fro, bearing jugs or bot- at the rate of six and one-half millions
tles, or crowd around the high counters, yearly by probate and legacy duties;
paying their hard-earned money for that when remedy of the law and the
the
which is not bread. At three o'clock transfer of small land and house prop-
they are turned out, and the doors are erties is kept out of the reach of the
banged remorselessly together but from ; mass of the people by the heavy exactions
six o'clock again gin and rum reign in deed stamps and other legal fees
supreme until a late hour. Throughout and charges when sobriety and tem-
;
each quarter of London inhabited by perance are discouraged by a tax of

the poor classes the public houses have £4,500,000 sterling per annum on the
monopolized the best street corners. workman's tea, coffee, and cocoa, and
They are of uniform type, neatly painted the workman lias to pay still other
—
GOO EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
millions for the collection of these The stronghold of the redoubtable

£4,500,000. Bradlaugh, whose name is as familiar as
The Financial Reform League is not that of the Prince of Wales to London-
in error in condemning the excise as one ers, is in an unpretentious structure in
of the most grievous burdens on the Old Street, in the City Road, — another
people. These excise duties were fust quarter which to American eyes seems
imposed in England in 166G. They were shabby and somewhat degraded. All
then solely laid on public drinks, beer, — around it are the humble, although
eider, spirits, coffee, and tea, and they — cleanly, houses of the commoner sort of
look the place of a revenue, hitherto mechanics and laborers, liberally inter-
due from the land in the shape of feudal spersed with the shining gin-palaces
rents. The amount of the latter revenue above alluded to. Within the Hall of
in 1660 was £100,000 sterling per year, Science, as Mr. Bradlaugh's secular
but the amount of the newly imposed church is called, order, however, reigns
excise was £610,000 sterling per annum, supreme. There is always a great crowd
Thus, the facility wil h which the poor to hear the distinguished orator and
can be robbed for the benefit of the rich Republican, who is usually accompanied
being established, the retention of excise on the platform by Mrs. Besant, whose
ever since as a great branch of the revenue name has been .-. > I >ng associated with
has followed. The famous malt duty his work, or by some oilier of the ladies
was abolished some time ago; but Mr. or gentlemen of the advanced Radical
Gladstone substituted for it. in 1880, party in the kingdom. Strangers of all
an excise on beer, which has since shades of opinion are welcome, and now
brought in an enormous revenue. It and then a sturdy supporter of the Mon-
seeins to the impartial observer as if the archy gets up in his place and indulges
English workman drank his beer and in an assault on Bradlaugh, if it, hap-
spirits in large quantities to no other pens to be one of those nights when that
end than to aid in supporting the fleets orator attacks what he calls " The House
and armies of Her Britannic Majesty, of Brunswick." Nothing can exceed
and the maintenance of her great, body the ingenuity with which Bradlaugh
of collectors and officials throughout the manages to escape the accusation of dis-
immense extent of territory over which loyally, while at thesame time he plainly
the English Hag floats liut. the work- condemns Monarchy as a system. To
man would probably say, as indeed he be rated as •'disloyal" in England is to
does say, when the subject is brought to be not respectable, and would be pretty
his attention : nearly equivalent to social ostracism.
Bradlaugh is a born controversialist, and
" 1) —n a man's eyes,
•
e TT
ot no mean order. lie should have been
, , . ,
, ,
, .
It ever he tries
To rob a poor man of his beer."
:l politician, and would have been far
more useful to the state in that capacity
Mr. Spurgeon, from his outlook in the than in his coveted role of simple agitator
high pulpit of his Tabernacle, sees clearly and social economist. In his oratory,
what is going on around him, and battles which is nearly always striking, some-
against the intemperance of the lower times brilliant, often profound, there are
classes; but the battle is a long and slight traces of an early humble origin —
difficult one. nameless shibboleths —
lapses from pro-
EUROPE f.V STORM AND CALM. 001
priety in seem to cling

speech, which lays down his accusations of what has
more England than in America
closely in or has not been done in Parliament
to men who have fought their way up House. Then the crowds start in pro-
from the bottom. Bradlaugh never for- cession for Westminster, but are always
gets what is due to his congregation, turned back by the police before they
which gives him an abiding place, a foot- reach Parliament, and disperse good-
hold, in the great city, the majority of humoredly, without more than the usual
whose inhabitants is entirely hostile to proportion of broken heads, when the
him. But he knows that out beyond Lon- people are k
'out" in London town. In
MASS-MEKTIN'IJ ON TRAFALGAR SQUARE.
don, and outside of the trailing class, Paris this would be magnified into the
there is an England which listens to him proportions of a great riot; the prime
"
with admiration and respect. minister would be asked to "explain :
Now and then he sallies forth on some one would say that a revolution
some great occasion, regardless of the was at hand. But is thought odd if
it.
danger, always prominent in London, of on a Lord Mayor's Day, or on the return

butting his head against the law. He from the Derby, there lie not some well-
summons thousands of the populace to cracked heads. The blows seem to be
meet him in Trafalgar square at the foot the result of surplus energy rather than
of the Nelson monument, and there he a disposition to do injury. I once saw
in front of Charing Cross half-a-dozen was suddenly claimed by the landlord

rough young fellows push into the very and adjudged to him by the courts, and
midst of a Lord Mayor's procession, when this greedy landlord claimed, ac-
striking out right and left, rolling over cording to law, the building also, lirad-
and over in their haste, and coming out laiigh came up with a hundred men who
on the other side all in the best of good carried the building off piecemeal.
nature, each having taken the other's When Disraeli discovered, in 1868, that
buffeting as a part of the ceremony. Bradlaugh's paper, the " National Re-
Bradlaugb naturally frowns on dis- former," had never deposited the £800
order, and the authorities have no fear of caution money exacted by the law as
of his meetings. Half-a-dozen gigantic a preventive against blasphemous or
policemen stroll sleepily through the seditious and when he
publications,
crowds, and if a disturbance occurs they called on Bradlaugh to pay up or cease
walk lazily towards it, confident thai it to print, Bradlaugh's only response was
will have ceased and that the disturbers the insertion, under the heading of the
will lie dispersed by the time the repre- journal, of this phrase, "A Paper pub-
sentatives of the law arrive on the scene. lished in Defiance of the Interdiction of
Bradlaugh at the liar of the House of the English Government." For this he
Commons; Bradlaugh in the lobby of was brought before a jury, but the case
the House, scuffling with the officials who was dropped. Gladstone, when he
expel him ; Bradlaugh in the courts, came into the ministry, took it up and
where he is prosecuted for technical prosecuted it, but it was taken by Brail-
irregularities ; Bradlaugh in his own laugh to the Supreme Courts, and there
vigorous newspaper and in his reported the atheistic orator was victorious on
lectures, in his books, and on his John- every point.
street platform, — is a figure which London Bradlaugh is very popular in Paris,
will miss more than it now fancies when where he is not quite understood, but is
he has passed away. He adds to the supposed be something very radical

to
piquancy and picturesqueness of public and desperate. He finds a certain sup-

life, and, when the new Democracy has port among the respectable French Radi-
got far on its road, he will probably grow cals, for whom his atheism is not so
tamer and more dignified, settling into a shocking as it is to the English Liberals.
permanent and comfortable place. At The voters of Northampton, who have
present he is proud to be called atheist, sent him three times to the House of
which dread word carries with it his con- Commons, believe in and admire him.
demnation in every orthodox household His colleague, the witty and wealthy Mi-.
in London. Democrat, Republican. Labouchere, part owner of the " Daily
energetic advocate of temperance, he is News" and sole proprietor of the
never happy if not in opposition. When sprightly " Truth," never loses an
the police forbade him to speak within opportunity in the House of Commons
the limits of Devonport he made his to give Bradlaugh a lift, and does it
address from a boat on the waters of the with much grace and courtesy.
Tamar which was three feet from Dev- To bring out the volcanic force which
onport shore, but outside its jurisdic- lies atthe bottom of Bradlaugh's tem-
tion; when the mechanics of London perament, he must be deeply moved by
had built a hall on a, hit of land which an attack, not upon himself, but upon
some doctrine dear to him, or some one street, for when he wants a mighty con-
who enunciates theories which he holds gregation he goes to the grassy slopes of
sacred, lie is the least self-conscious Hyde Park, or stands amid the sculpt-
of men. If he alludes to himself it is ured lions which lie around the Nelson
only as the representative of others. I Memorial.
once heard him in an inspired burst of Mr. Bradlaugh is no longer looked
oratory, which, like many others, passed upon by the Conservatives, since the ad-
away without record, hut it was enough vent of Mr. Chamberlain, as the chief of
LORD MAYOR'S DAY. — SAILORS IN PROCESSION.
to give any speaker lasting fame. He tenors. His star has perhaps paled a
was describing the persistence of his little before the lustre of the career of
own purpose, and his faith in the ulti- this slight, boyish-looking man, who,
mate results towards which he strove. from the platform in Birmingham as
Few men in England, few in Europe, from his place in Parliament, states the
could have spoken better than he did most revolutionary propositions in quiet
then; none could have carried in their and dignified language, adding to them
words greater weight of conviction. He that authority which comes from his
does not need room than the
a larger position as a member of the Cabinet
diminutive "Hall of Science," in John " He wore," says Mr. Lacey, in his re-
(504 EUROPE IN STORM AND i'M.M.
centlv published diary of the two Par- or a distinguished merchant, is found

liaments, " on the occasion of his lirst next on the paper, and presents his
appearanqe. in 1877, in the House, not views. Then the resolution is "put,"
spectacles, with tin or brass rims, as and it, is at this point that the unex-
F<'li\ Hull would inevitably have dune pected speeches happen in and add to
had his sight been impaired, but an eye- the interest. In the University meetings
class — positively an eye-glass." Mr. in the spring; at the great assemblies in
Laeev goes on to inform us that the St. James's Hall, in London, St. George's
Conservatives had a preconceived notion Hall, in Liverpool, and that famous
of Mr. Chamberlain's appearance and building where John Bright has for so
manner; that they had "evolved some many years held forth before his always
fancy picture," and that they were admiring constituents, in Birmingham,
greatly surprised " at seeing the genial the audiences are so similar to our own
member for Birmingham and in a coat, that an American feels at home an g
even a waistcoat, and on hearing him them.
speak very good English in a quiet, mi- At the hospitable hoard of the Lord
demonstrative manner." A Radical with Mayor of London, and in the numerous
an eye-glass and a bank account appeared corporation buildings in the "city,"

to the Conservative mind an anomaly, so many great speeches are made yearly.
fixed is the impression that those who The Lord Mayor oecupies a lofty posi-
ask for land-and-revenue reform are tiou, and one which costs him dearly to
greedy and needy Socialists in disguise, keep up. But every incumbent of the
All the Liberals, without exception, are office takes a special pride in spending
looked upon somewhat askance by the the £8,000 which the city gives him for
Conservative people in the countn dis- his year, and as much more out of his
tricts. Mr. Laeev himself tells us that own pocket, while he is lodged at the
an old lady, reared in an atmosphere Mansion House, in entertaining political,
of clericalism, on having Gladstone literary, and commercial dignitaries and
pointed out to her among the celebrities celebrities. He holds the first place
at the funeral of a distinguished friend, in the city, after the sovereign, and
whispered, "Oh, how dreadful! I do is the only man in England who can say
trust he is not coming to create a dis- when he is within his own boundaries
turbance." that he has precedence of the Prince
Public meetings in England are al- of Wales. George IV. disputed this
ways conducted according to certain privilege, but it has never been ques-
well-establisbed and long-practised rules, tioned since his time. The Lord Mayor
but are characterized by much the same is annually chosen, by what is called the
freedom ami energy of expression found Livery, in the last days of September in
in America. There is none of the cast- each year, and rules a twelvemonth,
iron formalism which flourishes on the He is ordinarily the senior alderman.
Continent, and the English plainness of the city proper having twenty-six wards,
expression flourishes to the fullest ex- each returning an alderman, and sub-
tent. A meeting always has a resolu- divided into each of which
precincts,
tion laid before it; speeches are then returns a common-council man. The
made by the mover and the seconder, after Liverymen who choose the Mayor are
which a noble lord, or a Rt. Rev. bishop, the chief dignitaries of the Trade Com-
panics, who furnish a voting constitu- palace, and appears a little out of place
ency of about ten thousand persons. in themidst of the intense hustle and
They, with the senior aldermen, choose hurry over the smooth pavements in the
the principal officers of this ancient city vicinity of Lombard :md the Bank.
street.
corporation, the style of which is the On reception and when grand
nights,
Mayor, Commonalty, and Citizens of banquets are given, the Egyptian Hall
London. Next to the Lord Mayor are is open. This lofty room can accommo-
two sheriffs and a recorder, which latter date lour hundred guests, and the din-
DINNKR WITH THE LORD MAYOJi.
functionary officiates in the Lord Mayor's ners are veritable feasts. The Lord
Court, held at Guildhall. This recorder Mayor and Lady Mayoress — the Mayor
has an unlimited jurisdiction, both legally in his civic robes, with his gold chain of
and equitably, for cases within the city office- —-personally receive their guests,
boundaries. His court is one of the who are then assembled in the ban-
curiosities of London, the modes of pro- queting-room in the order of precedence
cedure being derived from the ancient so rigidly established in England, lie-
customs of the city, in large part. The hind the Lord Mayor is a massive row
Mansion House, the official residence of of gold and silver plate, the antique
the Lord Mayor, is a rather gloomy treasures of mighty Loudon; and near
structure, built in imitation of an Italian him stands a bearded functionary with a
606 ETTRftrii IN 8T0HM AST) f'.U.V.
stentorian voice, whoso duty it is to cry the sound of trumpets, and the twelve
the toasts as they are announced. The hundred united guests sit, down to din-
turtle, the Madeira, and the clarets of ner, the spectacle is highly imposing.
tlic Mansion House are far-famed, and This dinner annually costs £1,500, of
one sees at the table of the greal Mayor which the city gives £200, the Lord
those traditional figures of aldermen Mayor half, and the two sheriffs the
which lie seeks elsewhere in vain. other half of the remainder. Mr.Timbs,
The riches of certain of the trading in his " Curiosities of London," tell us
guilds are almost fabulous. Their yearly that, for this colossal feast forty huge
incomes from ancient investments, for turtles are slaughtered, ami the servingof
which they have no possible use unless the dinner requires two hundred servants
for charity, are. it is said, squandered in and eight thousand plate changes.
costly banquets, and in the accumulation The most, ancient of the great city
of rich stocks of wines ; so that it is not companies is the mercers, wdiose char-
strange if the aldermen of London have ter was granted in 1393. Next come
fat paunches and rosy cheeks. There the grocers; then the Ash-mongers;
are no less than eighty-two of these city then the goldsmiths, skinners, and
companies, each one having its hall, and bakers, whose charters are earlier, but
all being rated in the order of precedency. whose rank seems to have been deter-
Guildhall, in King street, Cheapside, mined as less. Then come the saddlers,
the town-hall of the city of London, is carpenters, weavers, and parish clerks.
the chief of all the halls, and is rich Out of the Mercers' Company have come
with historic memories. It is in this kings, princes, ninety-eight Lord Mayors,
room, where the colossal giants Gog and and the illustrious Whittington and
Magog keep watch, where six or seven Gresham. It, is said that the Fish-
thousand people may he assembled on Mongers' Company purchased the land
great occasions; and there, for more near London Bridge, on which stands
than three hundred and fifty years, the one of its halls, at the enormous rate of
inauguration dinners of the Lord Mayors £630,000 pin- acre. This company has
of London have taken place. There furnished fifty Lord Mayors to London.
the Sovereign dines on the Lord Mayor's The banqueting-halls, the museums of
Day which succeeds his or her corona- plate and treasure, the and pict- festival
tion. There George IV. met with Alex- ure-rooms of these ancient companies
ander of Russia and Frederick William give, as nothing else can. an idea of the
III of Prussia, at a great dinner, which accumulation of wealth 1 the splendor
cost t'i'.'i.OlHl, and at which, it is said, brought, together on the dingy banks of
gold anil silver plate worth £200,000 the Thames.
was employed. There have been held The !)th of November, generally
the successive dinners which have marked foggy or muddy and rainy, is Lord
the progress of the Reform hills since Mayor's Day in London. Then the
1831 and
; when
mighty hall is
the newly elected functionary proceeds from
lighted up with the six or seven thousand the Mansion House westward, along
gas-jets, arranged in stars, mottoes, and Fleet street, and the Strand, past the
devices, and when at the dinner on site of old Temple Bar (which was
Lord Mayor's Day, the Mayor and his demolished a few years ago), on to
guests are marshalled to the banquet by Westminster, where he takes the oath
EUROPE hV STORM AND CALM. 607
before the I3aron of the Exchequer. In hold arc no less than twenty gentlemen,
recent years the procession has varied The Mansion House is rent free, and the
much in character, according to the plateand ornaments are worth £30,000

fancy of the mayor-elect. Sometimes it or £40,000. The Lord Mayor keeps
is military, allegorical, or historical in three tables, a fine retinue of servants,
character. But one is sure to see Gog and in the old days, like a very monarch,
THE THAMES FROM THE TOP OF SAINT PAUL'S. — WESTMINSTER PALACE IN" THE
DISTANCE.
and Magog, and a good fight, before the he kept his own particular fool. He is
procession has passed by the point from chief butler to the Sovereign at coronation
which he views it. The Mayor and Lady feasts. On state occasions, lie wears a
Mayoress ride in their state coach, massive silk robe, richly embroidered ;
followed by the sheriffs in their state at courts and civic meetings, a violet
coaches, and by aldermen. silk with fur, and bars of black
robe
The city gives the Lord Mayor his velvet; and when he presides at the
coach, but not his horses. He is ex- Criminal Court, or on the bench at the
pected to supply the Lady Mayoress with Mansion House, a scarlet robe with furs
her carriages and horses. In his house- and borders of black. As the repre-
sentativeof England's commercial power

:nnl wealth, he relieves the court of
much expense and trouble, and allows
those distinguished aristocrats, who are
removed by several generations from the
atmosphere of trade, the privilege of
not coming in contact with those who are
still carving out their fortunes, or whose
grandfathers carved them out for them,
by creating a special court for this latter
class.
AKC'llHlslloc MANNING I'lUC ACIIINC TEMrKKANCE.

—
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. (JU9
CHAPTER SIXTY-NINE.
'TheCity." — The Daily Pilgrimage to — Exact. Limitsofthe City District. — Demolition of Temple
It.
Bar.— The — Fleet Street. — Chaucer's Battle in this Famous Avenue.- The Newspaper
Griffin.
Region. — The Temple. — The Inns. -The Law Students. — St. Paul's and Neighborhood. it-*
The Crypt in St. Paul's. — The Publisher's Haunts. — The Bank.— Lombard Street.— Christ's Hos-
pital.- The "Times."
FROM eight to ten o'clock on every known as " The Liberties," which im-
morning of the week, except Sun- mediately surrounded them. "The Lib-
day, hundreds of trains and omnibuses erties," says Mr. Timbs in his "Curi-
— trains in subterranean avenues, on the osities of London," "are encompassed
street level, and on high viaducts, from by the line of separation, the boundary
which one may look clown upon the attic between them and the county of Middle-
windows of acres of houses —-carry the sex, and marked by the Bars, which
commercial and professional classes of formerly consisted of posts and chains,
London into what is called "The City." but are now denoted by lofty stone obe-
Within this tract is concentrated three- lisks, bearing the city arms, which may
fourths of the intellectual and financial be seen, eastward, in White Chapel, the
activity of the largest city in the world. Minories and Bishopsgate street; north-
From ten o'clock to four the vast avenues ward, in Caswell street, at the end of
are crowded with hurrying, anxious folk, Fair alley, and in St. John's street, and
primly dressed, and deferential
polite westward, at Middle row, Ilolborn ;
even in their haste, knowing the value while at the west end of Fleet street, the
of a minute and exacting its full worth, boundary is the stone gate-way called
settling transactionswhich involve thou- Temple Bar." This old stone gate-way is
sands, and sometimes millions, in inter- gone now, and, had it remained, it would
views that last barely half an hour, and have seemed insignificant enough under
exercising influence over dozens of small the shadow of the somewhat gloomj
countries scattered up and down the and ill-arranged palace where London
mighty seas. The city man is aware has finally placed the numerous tribunals
of his own importance in the world's which were formerly crowded into small
economy, and is gifted with becoming and old-fashioned rooms in the neigh-
dignity. He is hard to get at in the borhood of Westminster. Near where
first instance, — seems inclined rather to Temple Bar stood, at the entrance into
repel than demand business, as befits Fleet street from the Strand, is a me-
one who may take his choice of the best morial monument with a griffin sprawl-
enterprises set on foot but, once having
; ing on itsand with bas-reliefs, which
top,
given his attention, he decides and acts the populace, urged by some curious
with the greatest swiftness. feeling dillicult to explain, took delight
The " City," so called, is that part of in breaking shortly after they were placed
London which, in the old was
days, in position.
within the walls, together with what was Fleet street, with its thousand ancient
souvenirs of historic exhibition and pos- between Westminster and the newspaper
sessions, and with its associations with officesbut by one o'clock in the morn-
;
Goldsmith and Johnson, is the chief ing nothing is heard save the beating of
rendezvous of journalism in London. the great presses, deep down in the sub-
Then' are the offices of all the great cellars, under the muddy streets. Fleet
newspapers, except the " Times." " The si reel is often called the cradle of steam-
Daily Telegraph" and "The Daily printing. There Heasley, Woodfall, and
News " have palatial abodes ; and the Taylor, by their joint exertions, finally
writers of the articles which move the succeeded in doing cylindrical printing.
thought of England meet to discuss This was immediately adopted by the
and literature in dusty, venerable
politics • Times," in 1814.
taverns,whose owners are proud of the At the upper end of Fleet street there
memories which their houses evoke, and is a gate-way to the Inner Temple and ;
turn them to excellent account. In no ramble in London

more interesting
is
Wine-office court, just oft" Fleet street, than that through the tortuous lanes and
is the ••Old Cheshire Cheese," where the little streets, and between the houses in
favored visitor is allowed to sit in a chair which the lawyers and law students of
from which Dr. Johnson thundered forth the metropolis reside. Out of Fleel
his magniloquent sentences ; and close by street leads Chancery lain', filled with
is the house where Goldsmith lived in the offices of barristers and legal print-
1761, when Johnson first visited him. ers. On the west side of this street is
Johnson's house, in the court named Lincoln's Inn. In these old courts of
after him, from which he used to march chambers, which were mainly built in
forth on his stately promenades along the time of James I., was the ancient
Fleet street, is also close at hand. The hall in which the Commons of the
house in l.olt court, where he died in society used to meet for their masks and
1771. was burned more than half a Christmas festivities, when the benchers
century ago. Chaucer and .Milton both laid aside their dignity and the students
lived at times in Fleet street and there is : danced before their judges. The new
a pretty story told of Chaucer's once hall and library, —
noble buildings of
having soundly thrashed a Franciscan tin- Tudor style, — the council-room, are
trial- in the celebrated avenue, when he all most interesting, and one cannot but
was a student of the Inner Temple, and wonder that so serene and tranquil a
being lined two shillings lor the offence. retreat, like that of some old university,
The taverns and coffee-houses are usually has been preserved in the very heart of
to found in dark little passages or
lie one of the busiest of modern cities.
alley- ways, and one instinctively looks for The new hall in Lincoln's Inn has a
costumes of past ages, and is surprised vaulted kitchen forty-live feet square
to see the quaint rooms crowded with and twenty-five feet high. Attached to
gentlemen sprucely dressed in the latest it and adjoining are cellars capable of
fashion of the West End. Fleet streel containing one hundred pipes of wine;
is almost the only portion of the city in whence we may conclude that good
which there is a considerable movement cheer reigns in Lincoln's Inn. Farther
at night. During the sessions of Parlia- away, on the north side of Holborn, is
ment, or in exciting war times, proces- Gray's Inn, also a. noted rendezvous of
sions of cahs are constantly moving the legal fraternity, possessing an oval
;
EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM. (.11
hall, built three hundred years ago, with the successful students. Nevertheless,
a great oaken roof divided into seven persons may still he called to the bar re-
bays by Gothic arched ribs. All the in- gardless of the lectures and examinations
mates of these four inns of court the — but, in all cases, keeping Commons by
two Temples, Lincoln's Inn, and Gray's dining in the hall is absolutely necessary.
Inn —
have the exclusive power of prac- These dinners in the various halls are
Using as advocate or council
in superior courts. The stu-
dent who wishes to gain ad-
mittance to any of these has
a sharp tight for the privilege ;
but once admitted he is en-

titled to the use of the libra-
ries, "to a seat in the church

orchapel,and tohave hisname
set down for Chambers."
"He is then required to keep
Commons by dining in the
hall twelve terms (four terms
occurring each year), on com-
mencing which he must de-
posit with the treasurer £100,
to be retained with interest,
until he is called. Hut resident
members of the universities
are exempt from this deposit.
The student must also sign a
bond, with sureties, for the
payment of his Commons and
term fees. In all the inns
no person can be called unless
he is above twenty-one years
of age, and three years' stand-
ing as a student. A Council
of Legal Education has been
established by the four inns
of court, to superintend the
AT THE PUNCH AND JUDY SHOW.
subject of the education of
students for the bar. and.
by order of this council, law lectures very curious. At five or half-past five
are given by learned professors at the o'clock in the afternoon the banisters
four inns, all of which any student and students assemble in their gowns,
of any of the inns may attend. The and the benchers proceed in procession
examinations also and take place, to the dais. The steward then strikes
scholarships, and other
certificates, the table three times, grace is said by
marks of approbation are the rewards of the treasurer or senior bencher present,
and the dinner begins. Each table is Napoleon I. at the Invalides in Paris,
arranged by messes, and to each mess is In the crypt of St. Paul's stands the
allowed a bottle of port wine. The state car mi whicli the body of Welling-
dinner is usually simple, but there are ton was conveyed to tin cathedral at 1
many ancient formularies and ccreino- his funeral. At the Chapter House of
nies, some of which provoke a smile this church, every time a new political
to-day, like that observed in the Inner party assembles, there is a kind of new
Temple on the 29th of May. when each clerical parliament,composed of a dean,
member drinks to the happy restoration four canons, twelve minor canons, six
of Charles II. in a golden cup of sack. lay figures, and twelve choirists. Here
At Gray's Inn they occasionally toast the Lord Mayor's chaplain preaches his
the memory of Queen Elizabeth. Now annual state sermon, and on the anni-
and then the younger students from versary of the great fire, 1666. In May,
these vast ranges of buildings called during the anniversary festivals, noble
'•Courts" hold high wassail in the concerts are given in the church, and
public houses and queer old taverns on the annual gathering of the charity chil-
Fleet street, and show that Englishmen dren, eight or ten thousand in number,
of to-day drink as deeply as Englishmen held in St. Paul's in June, is one of the
of Dr. Johnson's time. prettiest and most pleasing of English
The neighborhood of St. Paul's is one public assemblies. Thither go the
of the most interesting quarters of the judges and law-officers, in long proces-
city. St. Paul's is the Pantheon of sion, for blessing on their labors before
England's naval and military heroes, the beginning of the annual sessions,
ami the burial-place of many of her Back among numerous streets and un-
greatest painters. In the crypt lies Sir romantic places in the neighborhood of
Christopher Wren, who built the great St. Paul's are the publishers. One of
church, anil whose handiwork is visible the most famous streets in which the
everywhere in the city; Sir Joshua purveyors of literature abound is Pater-
Reynolds, Flaxman's
immortalized by noster Row, so called from the sellers of
statue as much as by bis own work ; rosaries and the text-writers who lived
Parry, (pie. Lawrence, and Van Dvck
(
;
there in the time of Henry IV. From
Turner. West, and Milton Archer Shee ; Paternoster Row and its immediate vicin-
in the middle of the crypt, under an altar itygo out most of the great works which
tomb, are the remains of the great Nelson, have done so much during the Victorian
In this crypt, for more than two years, period to ennoble English literature,
lay body of the Duke of Welling-
the The London publishers do not indulge,
ton. tin- coffin placed upon the top of the like those in Paris, in costly and luxuri-
sarcophagus which covered that of Nel- ous offices, with tapestries and pictures
son ; but now the old Duke reposes in a and hrir-o-brfc their work in
They do
porphyry tomb, sculptured out of a business hours, and simply fur-
in plain
single Mock, weighing more thanseventy uished rooms, and reserve their comfort
tons,and placed upon a massive base- and luxury for the suburban homes, to
ment Aberdeen granite, at each coiner
of which they hasten as soon as four o'clock
of which is sculptured the head of a sounds from the church-towers of the
guardian lion. This severely noble city. The man who at one o'clock
tomb is far more impressive than that of may he found lunching in a modest little
rookery in some back alloy, in a dark, labor; black care goes home with them,
open stall, where there no cloth upon
is and lurks beside the turtle-soup and the
the table and where napkins are un- bottle of old port on their dinner-table.
known, sits down to dinner at seven In front of the Mansion House, and
o'clock in his noble country-house, look- past the Royal Exchange, and down
ing out upon a splendid lawn, and docs Threadneedle street, in the neighbor-
his evening work in a costly library. hood of the First Bank of England,
London is their rendezvous, and nothing whose structures cover more than four
else. A solicitor will receive you in a acres, there is a continual rush of teams,
back office simple as that of a Hebrew carriages, drays inibuses, and other
SATURDAY NIGHT IN WORKMAN'S QUARTER.
retail dealer just beginning business ;

vehicles of almost every description,
but, if be invites you to bring your from early morning until after business
papers to his house, you will find he hours ;and through this moving mass
lives like amerchant prince. Every city hundreds of thousands of pedestrians
man sacrifices about two hours daily in pick their way with the deftness born of
going to and from his business. When long practice. Near by is Lombard
the trains leave the city in the afternoon street, so called from the old " Longo-
they are crowded with men who are baidi," the rich bankers who settled in
studying briefs, prospectuses, and memo- that distrietof London and grouped their
randa, which they extract from little countrymen around
them before the
black bags, placed carefully beside them. time of Edward II. There also were
One feels that their going into the city the goldsmiths, wholent money on plate
has been but the beginning of their clay's and jewels, and from the badge of the
Lombards, or Longobardi, the three on. a building was erected upon it, at a
golden nills of the Medici family, we gel cost of nearly £70, odd, the gross rental
our modern pawnbroker's sign. "The of which is estimated at £22,000, — the
days have long passed when," as we London and Canada Bank [laying £12,-
are told in the " Life and Times of Sir ooo for the ground floor and basement.
Thomas Gresham," "all sorts of "old It is not easy to get building sites in the
and silver vessels were exposed to sale. centre of the banking world. The Mer-
as well as ancient and modern coins, in cantile and Exchange Hank purchased
such quantities as must surprise a man premises in Lombard street for £20,000.
the first time ho sees and considers The directors of the bank then let the
them." The wealth of the men of Lom- first floor of the house to the Asiatic
bard street does not to-day consist of Banking Corporation for £1,000 per
golden chains, like that of Gresham, as year. The amalgamation of the London
was found to be the case after his death, Rank of Scotland with the Mercantile
lint gold and silver laceraen still bad and Exchange Rank having made it
their places of business in the street at necessary to value the premises in Lom-
the beginning of this century. For bard street, the directors of the Bank of
more than live and a half centuries this Scotland paid £10,000 to the share-
celebrated avenue has been devoted to holders in the Mercantile and Exchange
finance ; and in the long and narrow Rank as their proportion of the increased
streets, with their gloomy courts which value of the premises, which are now
radiate from it, are the business offices of estimated as worth £40,000. The value
some of the most powerful commercial was thus doubled within a year.
houses in The first idea of
the world. Every week-day, and at all hours of
the don Exchange came from Sir
I the day, — even later hours than those
Richard Gresham, who proposed to kept by the regular city man, — hosts of
Cromwell " to make a place for merchants able people from all corners of the earth
to repair unto in Lombert Strecte." flock into the city, bearing in their busy,
Underneath the dust of this avenue are ami often aching, brains, schemes which
the ruins of Roman houses, and many they hope to float in the inspiring atmos-
Roman remains have been found. They phere of this commercial centre, and by
are the last lot unearthed, and are sup- which they hope to enrich themselves.
posed to indicate that they belonged to Among these waiting and hoping folk
the period when London was burned by the Americans are very prominent.
Boadicea, The value of the ground in They are of all types: the breezy, fresh,
this neighborhood may be adjudged by and enthusiastic Western man, who,
the following instance, which Mr. Timbs despite the English assertion that gush
gives us in his valuable book on London : and a confidential air will kill any en-
A piece of ground at the corner of terprise offered in the city, behaves

I. bard street, formerly the site of in unconventional London in the same
Spooner & C'o.'s banking house, was let to boisterous and buoyant way that he
the Agra & Masterman's Bank, for nine would at home ; the sharp, quiet-man-
years, at £66,000 per year. Owing to a lu'iwl financier, who has come determined
change in the management of that bank, to measure capacities with the magnates
it was next sold to the City Offices Bank, of Europe's financial head-quarters ; the
at a premium of £70,000 sterling. Later wild-cat speculators, who find persons
;
EUROPE IN STORM A.VD CALM. 615
resembling them in the London market, and patience which, in more legitimate
and who slowly lay their plans for gull- pursuits at home, would have made them
ing the public ; and, finally, the large- solid fortunes.
brained but timid inventors, — the men The Royal Exchange is imposing, and
with every kind of novelty from per- is filled with memorials of Sir Thomas
petual motion to a new barbed-wire Gresham, who carried out the project
fence, — all learning by bitter experience which his father had recommended to
how hard it is to turn the current of Cromwell, and had his famous crest, a
suspicious capital into their own particu- grasshopper, placed over the first ex-
lar channels. The Odysseys of these change in Lombard street. Then the
speculative-minded men, amid the rocks "Burse," as it was called, was placed
and waves of London, are often attended in C'ornhill, whither, in 1570, came to
with pathos, and sometimes terminate in the dedication, " 'midst the ringing of
tragedy. " Hope deferred maketh the bells in every part of the city, the
heart sick," and as there are at all times Queen's majesty, attended with the
from six to seven thousand important nobility, front her house in the Strand,
schemes waiting attention, it is not odd called Somerset House, and entered the
that the many thousands of less impor- city byTemple Bar, through Fleet
tant enterprises are swept aside, forgot- street. Cheap, and so by the north side
ten, or readily dismissed. It is precisely and the Burse, through Threadneedle
the uncertainty, the delightful suspense, street, to Thomas Gresham's house, in
the dreamy anticipation of success, which Bishopsgate street, where she dined."
tempts so many foreign investors to stay Sir Thomas Gresham died before he
on and on in Loudon until their credit, had half completed his plan for enrich-
their courage, and often their health, have ing the Exchange with statues. This
departed. They arrive fresh with vigor, building was destroyed in the great fire
ami you they are well aware of

will tell in London, and, oddly enough, the
all the obstacles, have profited by the founder's statue was the only one which
experience of others, and have come to did not fall into the flames. The sec-
stay. And they do stay, moving from ond Exchange was opened at the close
the huge and glittering hotels, in which of the seventeenth century, being built
they at first installed themselves, into by the city and the Mercers' Company.
the more modest quiet of the West End It was a noble structure, well studded
square ; then into cheaper lodgings with statues of kings. But this in its
again to second-rate taverns; finally, turn was burned in 1838, and as the fire
into the country, but clinging on with reached the clock-tower at midnight the
perhaps no other capital than a good bells were heard chiming the familiar
hat and umbrella and their ever-seduc- air. "There is nae luck about the
tive address, determined against fate. house." The present Exchange, dedi-
Out of this throng of unsuccessful people cated by Queen Victoria, in 1844, is
sometimes leaps to the very height of renowned for its portico, adorned with
financial victory a man who had seemed Westmacott's sculpture. On this por-
marked for disaster. Some lucky chance tico is the inscription: "The earth is
has brought him to the front, and all the the Lord's and the fulness thereof."
others, seeing thegood turn fortune has Mr. Henry George, while addressing an
done him, struggle on. using an energy open-air meeting recently in front of
the Mansion House, pointed to this ments of the West End, the city restau-
inscription on the Royal Exchange and rateur has counted his cash and closed
s:\id it should read :" The earth is the for the night. The City is the best
landlord's, and the fulness thereof." paved, the cleanliest kept part of the
In this building are Lloyd's subscrip- metropolis, and contains many of the
tion-rooms, where meet the noted mer- most brilliant shops in London. In
chants, ship-owners, underwriters, in- Cheapside, in the Poultry, in the neigh-
surance, stock, and exchange brokers borhood of the General Post-office, in
of London. Lloyd was an old coffee- King William and in Cannon streets,
house keeper, from whose establish- a stranger may shop to great ad-
ment at the corner of Abchurch lane, vantage. In Cannon street a frag-
Lombard street. Steele used to indite ment of the London Stone, supposed to
his epistles to the " 'l'atlcl'." be the great central mile-stone from
The Lank of England looks like a which the British high roads radiated,
greal fortress, and it is well protected and to have been placed in its present
externally from attack. At night there location more than a thousand yearsago,
is a military force on duty, and clerks is still to be seen. 11 is mentioned as a
ate also detailed to keep a night-watch. landmark in a list of rents belonging to
There is little danger, however, that Christ's Church in Canterbury, in the
the masses, whether excited by Mr. time of King Athelstan, who reigned in
Henry George or any other agitator, will the tenth century.

ever attempt an assault upon the ven- One of the noblest charities in the
erable and exalted financial institution. city London is Christ's Hospital,
of
It is not far from this centre of com- which was due to the exertions of the
mercial London to the water-side, and good citizens to provide for a large
the great Custom-house, with its majestic homeless population. Henry VIII. as-
front, live hundred feet long, with a sisted work by large grants, and
this
broad esplanade between it and the young King Edward VI. gave the hos-
river, and to the lone avenues, literally pital its name. The hospital was not
crammed with heavy drays, hearing to originally, as it is to-day, a school ; but
and fro every conceivable sort of mer- at all times its directors rescued young
chandise, from the ships which crowd the children from the streets to shelter, feed,
docks. Here and there throughout the and clothe them. For more than three
city rises a line building devoted entirely hundred years Christ's Hospital has
to the providing of refreshment. The been a school, and is proud of its old
city restaurant-keepers acquire fortunes traditions ami its ancient, uniform.
in a very short time. Their custom is Many a fashionable mother presents with
certain. Yet they court it by bestowing pride her son attired in the long blue
upon their customers every possible com- coal and yellow stockings, and wearing
fort and luxury. From ten o'clock until the livery girdle which all the children
four these and the
great restaurants received at Christ's Hospital must wear.
numerous clubs scattered throughout the They go bareheaded in all times and
city quarter are overflowing with hun- seasons; and one of these boys, on his
gry people; but after sunset few people vacation visit to the Continent, is as
linger, and by the time the lamps are lit much followed and stared at as a lion
in the gorgeous gastronomic establish- or an elephant would be. There are
but a few arches and a bit of a cloister at present. "The Times" is the epit-
of the old building remaining. Many ome of English achievement, day by
of the oldest buildings have been re- day, and has the utter lack of self-con-
stored. From Newgate street the pub- sciousness and the quiet dignity which
lic can look in upon the great hall, and, an- so noticeable in an Englishman and ;
on any Friday, may get admittance to it also has theabundant confidence and
see the children having their supper in the utter inability to look at any subject
this hall, the eightor nine hundred buys, from other than an English point of
in quaint costumes, going carefully over view. In its huge red brick building
the various ceremonies which have come "The Times" sits enthroned a positive
down In them from the sixteenth century. authority, against which many cavil, but
The Charter House, in Aldersgate street, none dare rebel. The present office
is another noble charity, founded by a stands upon the sight of the old Mon-
London merchant, where eighty pension- astery of Blackfriars, in Printing House
ers live together in collegiate style, and Square. Mr. W. Fraser Rae, a noted
where, forty poor boys are annually re- English publicist, has recently given to
ceived for free education. This Charier the world a brilliant monogram on the
House, which has given to the world .Sir centenary of " The Times." in which he
William Blackstone, Addison, Richard traces through a hundred years the
Steele, John Wesley, George Grote, and course of the great paper. Perhaps no
Bishop Thirlwall, has an income of incident in the history of this journal
£29,000 sterling annually. Yet another is more striking than its exposure of a
college is that named after Sir Thomas vast conspiracy that had been formed
Gresham, where lectures are annually for swindling foreign bankers out of
delivered on different sciences, free of £1 ,000,000 sterling. ••The Times" was
any charge to the public. quite successful in the unearthing of this
Christ's Hospital is filled with memories fraud, and its services to commerce are
of Coleridge, Charles Lamb, and Leigh commemorated by a tablet in the Royal
Hunt, all of whom are blue-coat boys. Exchange. There have been three gen-
It has many ancient privileges, such as erations Walters, proprietors and
of
that of addressing the Sovereign on the conductors of " The Times," which is a
occasion of his or her coming into the magnificent property. In the printing
City to partake of the hospitalities of of this journal, which sometimes com-
the corporation. Presentations to this prises sixteen large and well-printed
school are greatly coveted. The insti- pages, a perfected press, invented by
tution has five hundred governors, headed the third Walter, is used. The main
by the royal family, and many of these features of this are simplicity and com-
have the privilege of presenting pupils. pactness, combined with enormous speed
Not far from Blackfriar's Bridge and inworking. A large reel, covered with a
looming up a conspicuous monument as canvas roll of paper, revolves at the
the traveller from west to east enters one end; at the other end the printed
the domains of the City by way of the sheets issue, folded and printed ready
embankment, is the office of " The for the publisher, at the rate of fifteen
Times," which is now in the hundredth thousand copies per hour. The paper
year of its existence, and which was on the reel is four miles long. In less
never more brilliant and prosperous than than half an hour these four miles of
618 El ROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
paper are converted into newspapers, the civilized or partly civilized world,
" Every night." says Mr. Rae, " when constitute one of the most wonderful
the Walter presses are running in 'The intellectual achievements of modern
Tinics' office, a quantity of paper weigh- times. >,"<> matter how tremendous the
ing ten tuns, and representing a roll one expense and effort attendant upon the
hundred and sixty miles long, is thus getting of telegraphic news, "The
transformed into newspapers." The Times" never blusters about these
- :— ?,j..
SALVATION" ARMY.
editor of •• The Times " is no longer a things, hut prints, in its bright, clear
one-man power, striking terror because type, on its immaculate paper, the news
of his very mystery. Much of the work of the world.
There are always " causes "
of decision is done in council there ; but to take
is still an enormous amount of detail, up much of the attention of the papers of
which falls upon the shoulders of the the great city, and among the latest is
chief; and it is no secret that Mr. the movement for perpetual religious
Chenerv, the late editor, who has been excitement known as the " Salvation
succeeded by the able Mr. Buckle, dieil Army." Tlie military nomenclature of
of overwork. The telegraphic pages of its machinery masks a worthy scheme
"The Times," embodying as they fie- for reaching a class that is not touched
quently do on a M lay morning, by the churches. It is not wisely man-

lengthy dispatches from every part of aged, but it does much good.
CHAPTER SEVENTY.
The Smoke and Dirt of London. — Temperature. — Poor People and Dirty People. — The London
Season.— What and What
it Is, Means. — The Races. — The Derby. — tioin^ Down to
it
Epsom. — The Return. — Goodwood. — Ascot. — The Royal Academy. — John Millais. — Sir
Frederick Leighton. — Music and .Musicians.
AT the
six o'clock
stranger
on a June morning
who takes a walk
perature is greater in
that period seems to belong entirely to
winter, and at
through London can scarcely realize that the nights, which average considerably
it is the same city, in the sam country, wanner than in the country, while the
which he visited on four o'clock of a heat of the days, owing, without doubt,
November afternoon. Before the mil- to the interception of the solar rays by
and the thick,
lions of fires are lighted, the constant fall of smoke, falls, on a
black smoke begins to pour out from the mean, about one-third of a degree short
chimneys, the soft gray of the skies, and of that in the open plains. "There are
the grayish-brown of the noble lines of hundreds of London," says
places in
buildings, walls, and monuments, and Mr. Timbs, " into which the wind never
the great houses and bouquets of trees finds admission and even on the wider
;
and evergreen foliage, harmonize per- streets there are many through which a
fectly. In this tranquil morning hour free current is rarely blown. It is only
London would be, if its streets were in the night, when combustion, in some
clean, almost as beautiful as Paris. But measure, ceases, and the whole surface
the smoke, meeting the mist, hovers in of the earth is cooled, that the gases
the street, as soon as the thousands of are gradually removed and the whole
founderies, breweries, manufactories of atmosphere of the city is brought into
all sorts,and the domestic hearths have an equality."
lighted their fires and from nine o'clock
; If London could dispense with the
in the morning until late at night Lon- burning of coal it would be transformed,
don has a climate peculiar to itself. in less than a month, from one of the
"The temperature of the air in the smokiest and dirtiest cities in the world
metropolis," says Mr. Timbs, " is raised into one of the most picturesque and
by the artificial sources of heat existing beautiful. The mists and fogs which
inno less than two degrees, on the aver- visit the metropolis would lend an addi-
age mean, above that in its immediate tional picturesqueness to the old and
vicinity." All the artificial sources of mysterious city, but they are mixed with
heat, with the exception of the domestic sulphurous fumes, which are very un-
fires, continue in full operation through- healthy, for many medical authorities
out the summer. assert a constant lowering of the physi-
It would seem as if the excess of the cal type in London, and question whether
London temperature is still greater in the London population could be per-
June than in January, but the fact is petuated without a perpetual influx of
otherwise. The excess of the city tem- fresh blood from outside England and
from other countries. The smoke and clever dramatist and journalist, Mr.
the coal-dust, the sulphate of ammonia, George Sims, electrified benevolent Lon-
p reduced in the atmosphere by the burn- don when be showed, in a well-written
ing of enormous quantities of coal, and pamphlet, how the poor of London live ;
the sulphurous acid, are at first intensely how hey i are crowded in dens such as
disagreeable to the stranger. If a window exist inno continental city. The instinct
be left slightly open, books, writing-paper, of decency and cleanliness seems to be
fine and silks are found soiled
linens, banished from the souls of these people,
and smirched with the black particles who live in an atmosphere of unsavory
which hover in to do their unpleasant odors, and whose methods of thought are
work; and a wristband, immaculate at SO muddled by constant absorption of
nine o'clock, must be changed at noon, beer and spirits that they do not realize
One soon discovers why it is that the their own degradation. In addition to
Londoner is perpet- the very poor there is an adventurous
uallv washing his class, several hundred thousand strong,
hands, and that toi- which passes a wretched existence of
let-rooms are to be expedients and make-shifts, living in
almost bare, comfortless lodg-

ings, knowing no warmth or
^. light save that of the public
house or the theatre, or
#2) ?P '
THE QUEEN'S CARRIAGE.
found in every crowded thoroughfare. that of the too rare sunlight during the
From the difficulty of keeping clean in short summer.
London town probably arises the fashion London has its fashionable season, its
prevalent among the uppi r classes of period of social and intellectual, as well as
speaking of the poor as dirty people. In chief commercial, activity, in the months
no other place in the world is a smart, of March, April, May. June, July, and
even an elegant, exterior so important August. The ••
season " proper may
as in London. The papers record with be saiil to begin after Easter, and to
surprise the appearance of a well-dressed close punctually with the rising of Par-
man in the dock of a police or criminal liament, on the 12th of August. In
court. To be ill-dressed is almost a February and March publishers are busy
crime. with new books, the painters are frantic
The poor people in London are indeed with preparations for annual exhibitions,
dirty people,and they have few facilities horse-racing begins, the university crews
for the promotion of cleanliness. That are briskly at work on the river, finish-
ing with their annual struggle. But house-keeper nervous with ambition to
is
" town," as all Englishmen rail it, is make money and in the great metropo-
;
not at the height of its gayety until the lis, with four and a half millions of
breezy and pleasant days of May. people, a stranger who arrives on a sum-
TIIE QUEEN CONFERRING THE ORDER OF KNIGHTHOOD.
Then the rich families come in from mer evening has an excellent chance of
their country retreats. The fashionable sleeping in the streets, if he has not
hotels treble their rates. The gentle- engaged his rooms several days before-
men who pay ten guineas for their suite hand.
of rooms during the spring are asked to It is not the foreigners, but the Eng-
pay thirty after the first of May or to lish of the upper and middle classes,
retire. Every landlord and lodging- who spend the money during the season.
The British hotel-keeper professes some comfortable and entertaining, and when
slight disdain American patronage,
for the Englishman goes out of doors, it is
because the American docs not drink for vigorous exercise on horseback, on
wine. A country squire, a prosperous the river, in the cricket field, or a brisk
clergyman, with his family, or a rich walk along the suburban streets, or a
manufacturer, with his half-dozen grown- thirty-mile promenade on the tricycle,
up daughters, one or two smart sons, which has become almost as prominent
and his bustling wife, will speDd as much an institution in Loudon as a family
money at dinner at a London hotel as an carriage.
American party will dispense in a day. The holidays, festal occasions, politi-
The well-to-do country people enjoy cal .and sporting anniversaries are im-
their London season and lavish money portant events in the London season,
upon it. If they economize it is in the After Easter comes Bank holiday,
a
discreet privacy of their rural home. while business is suspended when the
One cannot pass through London the Quarter Sessions begin. On the second
season without heavy expense. The Sunday after Easter the Conservatives
ancient and rather shabby lodging- celebrate what is called Primrose Day,
houses in the historic streets on the the anniversary of the death of Lord
Strand, and in the great squares at the Beaconsfield, in 1881. In May the
West End, are almost as expensive as Academy exhibition of paintings is
the mammoth modern hotel. The thea- opened, and on the evening preceding
tre, the opera, and concert are all dear in it, unless it be a Sunday, a grand din-
comparison with ordinary prices in Amer- ner is given at Burlington House, at
ica. A seat at a fashionable theatre, which the president of the Royal Acad-
w here the play begins :it a quarter before emy presides, ami speeches are expected
nine o'clock and closes promptly at from the Prime Minister, foreign ambas-
eleven, costs half a sovereign, or $2.50. sadors. distinguished orators and writers.
Mowers, fruit, and. in short, everything In May, too. comes the anniversary of
which partakes of the nature of a the birth of Queen Victoria, a Rank —
luxury, are dear, even at a central mar- holiday, — when all the commercial world
kit like Covent Garden. But England enjoys a rest, and the younger class of
is filled with people who are and
rich employes a great frolic. Next in order
whose fathers were rich before them, arc the Kpsom races, and (he Whitsun-
and who scarcely appreciate the value of tide holidays.
money. The luxurious and handsome The Derby, famous the world over, is
hotels in London. :it the termini of the one of the most (anions and interesting
great railways, profess to make moderate of the racing-festivals in England, and
charges ; them as one lives in
but to live in brings out the most motley collection of
an American hotel one must pay nearly people of all classes that can be seen
double the American charges. London during the The great annual
year.
plucks the strange]- within her gates, meeting, on Epsom Downs, takes place
whether he comes from outside England just before Whitsuntide, from Tuesday
or from foreign parts but the resident ; to Friday. Wednesday is the Derby,
finds it a cheap, healthy, and agreeable Friday is the Oaks, or. as (lie populace
place to live in. lie learns not to think would call it, " The Honks." If the
of the weather at all. In-d life is English think it extraordinary that the
French should always choose a Sunday much when the horses are
to say that
forany grand parliamentary display be- led forth upon the turf fifty thousand
fore the beginning of an important de- people rush to their heels to admire and
bate, the French think it no less singular comment upon their points. The race
that the English should adjourn their itself is like all horse-races, — interesting
Parliament in order that its members mainly to those who have risked upon
may attend a horse-race. Legislation is, the result. The races have been regu-
in fact, invariably adjourned for the larly run at Epsom since the time of
Derby ; and Sir Wilfred Lawson and .lames I. when he lived at Nonsuch
other reformers spend their breath in palace, and was fond of visiting the
vain in pointing out the wickedness of Derbys to see the horses run. In their
wasting people's time in attendance present form the races date from 1730.
uiion a trivial sport. The passion for Formerly there were spring and autumn
horse-flesh is so great in England that meetings, but now there is a spring meet-
it infiltrates into conversation and ing in April, lasting only two days, and
metaphor. The slang of the turf is from which the fashionable world holds
often used in political illustration, and aloof. Then there is the May meeting,
instances may be mentioned where it has from the Tuesday to Friday before Whit-
been employed in describing the charms suntide, unless Easter comes in March,
of an actress or a professional beauty. when the races take place after the
The sailor and the jockey contribute Whitsuntide week. Edward, twelfth Earl
thousands of phrases to English con- of Derby, established the race known by
versation. On Derby day,
the in the his name, in 1780 ; and in the year pre-
afternoon, all business in London is sus- vious to this he established the '-Oaks,"
pended, except the important business so called from one of his country seats.
of Thousands upon
transportation. The Derby race proper is a one-and-one-
thousands of people have gone down by half-mile contest for three-year-old
road on drags and coaches, packed witli gelds and fillies, and is usually run in
hampers of food and drink, and, long from two minutes and forty-three seconds
before the hour of the races, are ranged to two minutes and fifty-two and one-
in rows on the furzy and irregular hill- half seconds. Thirty years ago Tatter-
sides, which are thronged with a col- sail's, the great sporting rendezvous in
lection of mountebanks, gypsies, and Auction Hall for horses in London, was
adventurers of all classes ; and brown- crowded at the book-making before the
faced fortune-tellers, mounted on stilts, Derby day with a miscellaneous collec-
come to the drags to tell the fortunes of tion of peers and plebeians ami prize-
the ladies seated there. Young clerks fighters, " butchers, bakers, and candle-
from the have begun their libations

city stick-makers," farmers, soldiers, and
at an early hour, and soon quarrel and even ladies, — all anxious to indulge in
fight. A " Welcher," or a betting man this form of gambling. The owner of a
who cheats, is thrashed within an inch of Derby winner, on one occasion, had to
his lite. The enormous grand-stand, receive £70,000 from the ring at Tatter-
which can accommodate thousands, sail's, and so strict are the regulations
sends forth a shout of half awe-struck that on the settling day money,
all this
pleasure when the arrival of the Prince with the exception of £200 or was tr.OI).
of Wales is announced, and it is not too in the hands of his bankers. Jockeys like
624 FA' ROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
Archer, Fordham, and Wood accumulate which the view extends, on one side, to
large fortunes and Archer, who heads
; Windsor Castle, and on the other to St.
the list of winning jockeys in England Paul's Cathedral ; and all the way up to
and France (for lie often rides at the London, fifteen miles, along pleasant
races <>n Longchamps, in Paris) makes , country roads, well dotted with rural inns,
as much money as the most successful with furzy hanks, copious forests, country
of dramatic authors or leading actors. valleys, surrounded with handsome shrub-
During the bery, — there is a veritable carnival of
last racing- the rudest horse-play and sport. The
sea sun live noisy people feel it their duty and their
pro m i 11 e n t privilege to attack quiet people, and as
English gen- two-thirds of the holiday-makers ride
tlemen, own- upon the tops of drags or in open wagons
ers of live a kind of battle goes on. Now and then
S t n ds of the quiet people are provoked into re-
horses, won taliation by streams of water poured on
more t Ii a n them from squirt-guns, made especially
£10,000 each; for the occasion, and by a shower of
Mr. T. Ham- pocket-flasks, stale biscuits, bits of lob-
mond winning and even champagne bottles.
ster-shells,
£12,379 ; Mr. Every license that the exhilaration of
fresh air and an unlimited quantity of
wine can produce seems permitted, and
the interference of the police would be
looked upon as an unheard-of innova-
tion. The object of the rougher class
seems to be to ruin the garments and
spoil the pleasure of the
gentler number, and in this
they thoroughly succeed.
The result is that gentle-
s-p: men who visit the Derby
clothe themselves for the
occasion in garments of
C simple gray and in white
hats, which they count upon
ON THE ROAD TO EPSOM. laying aside as useless
thereafter. The ladies,
R. Peek. £11,906; (lie Duke of West- with their customary tact, dress in sober
minster. £11,769; Mr. Manlon, £11,494 ; colors, and if the road carnival becomes
and Mr. Rothschild, £10,931. too uproarious they take refuge in the in-
The return from the Derby is a sight terior of the coaches. It was once my
that, once seen, is never to lie forgotten. fortune to visit the 1
Derby with a party
Thousands of coaches, drags, light car- who had in their service a huge, good-
riages, omnibuses, and country wagons natured, and neatly dressed American
stream down |>ast the grand-stand, from negro. This unfortunate servant occu-
EUROI'E IN STORM AND CALM. 625
«*.
-ft**' !'
#£.%>. !in^W
't< ...
v #
FOX-IIUN'l'IN(i IN ENGLAND.
pied a conspicuous place on the front London certain societies post good-
of the drag ; but before we had gone looking men, who hold up placards for the
five miles on our return he was hidden contemplation of the crowd. These
under the back seat in the interior, placards are generally adorned with re-
whence he hardly dared to emerge after ligious mottoes and devices, and on one
he was in the comfortable security occasion a huge poster displayed these
of the stable at a London hotel. Here words, " "Where will all this end? .In
and there on the road from Epsom up to hell-lire."
There arc numerous races after the in his noted picture of "Chill October."
Epsom during the season; the summer The Academy is tilled with capricious
meeting at Sandown, the Ascot, to which painters, who delight in fantastic and
the fashionable world goes in throngs, unnatural subjects, in which they can
the New Market meeting, and the Good- use colors evolved from their own imagi-
wood meeting, — all these aregreat events nation rather than copied from anything
for society and even the Queen has been

;
in the visible universe. In portraiture
known to attend the races at Ascot on the Academy is strong. All the English
the cup day- Perhaps the most brilliant pictures, except the above-mentioned
assemblage of ladies in the early part of portraits, have a strong literary tinge, —
the London season is to be found at they tell a story, often striking, some-
Epsom, on the Oaks day, the Derby — times touching. The English painter is
being more especially reserved for gentle- not satisfied, like the French, with mere
men. contrast of color without coherence, he
The private view days at the Academy wishes to recite something, to interest
and the Grosvenor exhibitions bring more in his subject than in his technique.
together large gatherings of celebrities. The military painters are not very
In the handsome rooms devoted to the numerous for a nation so often at war
Royal Academy in Burlington House as Great Britain. Neither do the
some seventeen hundred pictures, or painters appear to have profited by the

perhaps half as many as are annually picturesque facilities offered in India and
displayed at the Paris Salon, are exhib- other dependencies of Great Britain for
ited. 'Hie characteristics of the English the choice of taking subjects. English
painting are too well known to need much and Scotch people, it is said, wish Eng-
discussion here. The foreign observer lish anil Scotch pictures; and there isno
looks in vain for the brilliancy of tone doubt they will pay liberally for them.
and the harmony of color to which the Nowhere world does the mod-
else in the
continental schools of painting have ern painter get more splendid remunera-
accustomed him. lie finds in the solid tion than in London. Half-a-dozen of
and enduring works of John Millais, the leading artists live in veritable pal-
Alma Tadeina, Mr. Watts, Luke Fildes, aces, which are the outgrowth of their
Mr. loll, Mr. Herkomer, and Sir Fred-
I own industry, — "industry" is perhaps
crick Leighton, enough talent, even the proper word. John Millais lives in
genius, to bestow renown upon any a noble mansion, and has a spacious
academy. Sir Frederick Leighton is .studio, in which he often receives royalty.
the accomplished and versatile president Sir Frederick Leighton inhabits a phe-
of the Royal Academy. The foreigner nomenal house, with tessellated pave-
looks with astonishment upon the great ments, cool court-yards, cabinets tilled
mass of dull and flaccid compositions by with antiquities and costly bric-d,-brac,
the younger men. It' English art needs and receives like a prime minister or a
any informing purpose it is that of sun- peer of the George Boughton
realm.
shine. It wants blue sky and translu- and Alma Tadeina also have line places
cent atmosphere. Now and then a mas- of residence. Tadema's house is like
ter like Millais can extract a weird his work, arclueological and fascinating.
poetry and charm from the sombre and In the neighborhood of Holland Park
gray qualities of a Scotch landscape, as there is an artistic colony, with dozens
of roomy, noble houses, where painters tation in London. The concerts are
live in a very different style from that legion. The real impulse to musical
of the traditional garret to which they culture in London is given by the Ger-
were supposed to be condemned. Besides mans. Sir Julius Benedict is deservedly
the annual Academy' exhibition there is popular, and, despite his great age, still
a line display of the works of living conducts with vigor and skill. Sir Arthur
painters, in oil and water colors, on Sullivan, famous because of his light
the 1st of May, at the Grosveuor Gal- operas, isalready renowned for solid
lery,which was established by Sir Coutts musical accomplishments. Sir George
Lindsay a few years ago, doubtless to Grove and Mr. McKenzie are among the
give increased facilities for exhibition to chief authorities in the musical world.
painters who are crowded out of the The aristocracy does but little for good
Academy. Then there is a society of music. The famous Philharmonic Society,
painters in water-colors, of which Sir which Mendelssohn used to conduct,
John Gilbert is the president ; also the gives concerts at St. James's Hall, begin-
institute of painters in water-colors ; the ning in February, and continuing into
Society of British and the
Artists ; the season. The Richter conceits are
general exhibition of water-colors, which also given at St. James's Hall. The
has a black-and-white exhibition during Philharmonic's audiences are mainly re-
the season, and other minor displays. cruited from the upper ranks of English
The English government gives a liberal society; the prosperous and cultivated
and the multiplication of art-
aid to art, Germans and Jews attend the Richter
schools throughout the kingdom is very series. One of the odd institutions of Lon-
remarkable. All this movement in favor don is the "Ballad Concert." The popu-
of art-schools and art-education sprang lace is never tired of the little tooting
from the exhibition of 1851, and from ballad or simple song. Its appetite for
the impulse given to the study of the these modest forms of musical composi-
beautiful by that good and able man, tion is enormous. The culture of sacred
the Prince Consort. music is very important. There is a
Of good music in Loudon there is no sacred harmonic society conducted by
lack during " the season." London has no Charles Halle, a German, who has lived
opera-houses which can vie in splendor in London for nearly a half-century ;
with those of Paris and Vienna, but in also the Albert Hall Choral Society, con-
prosperous seasons there are two Italian ducted by Mr. Baruaby, and the Bach
operas and a German opera, conducted Society, where Mr. Goldsehmidt, the
by Hans Richter, who has a great repu- husband of Jenny Lind, wields the baton.
G2S EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER SEVENTY-ONE.
Queen's Weather. —The
Coaching Meets.— The Flower Shows. Simplicity of English Manners.— —
Eccentricity and Excellence. —
Foreigners and English Society. The London Theatre. Ellen — —
Terry. —
Wilson Barrett. English Comedj Writers.— In the Parks. Rotten Row.— Some —
Noble Houses in London. — —
A Town of Men. Political Influence. The Clubs. —
the high London season there when the sun is radiant and there are
XNmore out-of-door life, there are more
is
no sudden changes that it is "Queen's

lawn and garden parties, more assem- Weather." Oddly enough, whenever
blages of fashionable ladies and gentlemen Her Gracious Majesty appears in public,
at the flower shows of (he great horticul- she is blessed with tranquil skies and
tural societies, than would at fust scent the absence of down-pour; but other
possible in a country with a climate so members of the Royal Family and other
variable as that of England. If the cli- English personages tire not so fortunate.
mate isvariable, however, it is also eccen- The orator who goes to address a pub-
tric ; and now and (hen tin' Londoners lic meeting without his Macintosh or his
are gratified with a summer which litis umbrella is as foolish as if he went with-
the strange charm of the North with the out the subject-matter of his speech.
sweetness and subtilty of the South. In The "Coaching Meets "and the "Flow-
1884, for instance, in the great gar- er Shows'' bring together as fine a collec-
dens attached to tin- South Kensington tion of handsome men and pretty women
Museum, where a successful " Health as can lie found in any European capi-
Exhibition " was held, thousands of tal. London takes a special pride in its
gentlemen in evening dress paraded (lowers and fruit, which are forced into
after dinner on the green lawns .and on a precocious and somewhat abnormal
terraces until the late darkness came, tit. maturity in the great conservatories and
half-past nine or ten o'clock, after which forcing houses. The prosperous mer-
thegrounds were illuminated, and Lon- chant likes to boast of his orchids, rho-
don seemed transformed into Upper dodendrons, and tin infinite variety of
Italy or Southern France. Air. Punch, roses. This is indeed a. more creditable
in his sprightly periodical, once illus- fashion than a pronounced extravagance
trated by means of a picture the reason in the line of horses, wines, or even
fast,
why the British public did not take old china. There is in the English capi-
kindlv to c«/es of the Parisian form. tal a very large class devoted to the
He showed a crowd of stout dowagers doctrines Mr. Bunthorne,

of a class —
and tat fathers of families suddenly sub- which, while perhaps i( does not accept
jected to a Shower of sleet, just as tin V Oscar Wikle is its apostle, still follows
:
had begun to enjoy their coffee in the pre-Raphaelitism in dress and in the fur-
open air. The people of London have a nishings of its homes. These people
phrase, however, which illustrates their stand out in hold relief against the
devotion to the Royal Family and their sturdy mass of English folk of till
appreciation of a fine day. They say classes, and there are few if tiny of them
EUROTE IN STORM AND CALM. (129
in the upper circles. An English Duke and recognizes, with great impartiality
is bluff and simple in lii.s ways, delight- and good-nature, all kinds of merit.
ing rather, if he boasts at all, to boast When it lias once adopted a favorite in
of his drawings by Raphael, and his a certain specialty it hesitates for
majestic parks and lakes, than of any some time before accepting a rival in the
peculiarities in costume or speech. same line. It appears to think that it
There is even an affectation of simplicity can be loyal to but one excellence in a
on the part of certain noblemen of high single department, and if that excellence
rank, a kind of deference to the grow- receives the seal of royal praise it is
ing democratic feeling, but a deference guaranteed a permanence in publicfavor

which the gentlemen in question would which nothing short of a great scandal
doubtless be slow to acknowledge if or misfortune can destroy.
they were accused of it. An ill-natured The theatre plays an important part
critic has said that an English public is in the recreations of the London high
captivated by eccentricities quite as season, and great progress has been
much by excellence. This is but
as made in the last few years in the mount-
partly true. Originality in thought and ing and production of plays. In scenic
expression is always respected by Eng- splendor London is easily the superior
lish society, although it sometimes calls of Paris to-day, the Parisians having
forth comments of extreme bluntness, given themselves bodily to the spectacle,
aud criticisms which in some circles with its inane jokes, and its silly, fairy
might be called rude. To win the extravagances ; while the ordinary French
respect of the English the foreigner comedy, illustrative of manners and
must remain himself* and never attempt morals, requires no scenery beyond that
to copy English ways of speech or dress. of a parlor, a field, or a garden. The
Taking the London season altogether latest production of the brilliant Du-
it may perhaps be called the most inter- mas, the comedy of " Denise," is in
esting one in Europe. There is less of four acts, without any change from the
dramatic, but more of musical, brilliancy scenery of the first act. Mr. Irving,
in the London than in the Paris season. and, later, Mr. Wilson Barrett, have
There are more circles, each one larger, given a sharp influence to the archaeo-
more entertaining, and wealthier, in Lon- logical school upon the stage. In their
don than elsewhere. Set down a for- productions at the Lyceum and the
eigner in London from any part of the Princess's Theatre of Shakesperian
world, accord to him a good appearance plays and melodramas they have ex-
and character, a certain refinement, and pended large sums in strict adherence
a few letters of introduction, and if lie to realism, and with the view to great
does not at once find the sort of society splendor. Mr. Irving' is, and will long
which he likes he will be very hard to remain, facile princeps in the London
please. He will not find the upper theatrical world, for lie unites to his
world at all difficult of access, if he is extraordinary ability as a stage man-
celebrated, amusing, or instructive ; and, ager that grain of genius, combined witli
on the contrary, if he is dull and selfish, eccentricity, which captivates the Lon-
even though he have millions, he cannot don heart. No one is better fitted than
enter the charmed sphere. London Miss Ellen Terry to serve as a piquant
wants the best in people aud in things, contrast to his varied moods, and to
portray the chief feminine characters in van, furnish all that is necessary. The
the plays which he has so strongly London critics of the theatre and the
stamped with his own individuality. Mr. concert are severe and just. Amongthem
Wilson Barrett is a newer applicant for arc many celebrities, like Mr. Burnand,
London favor, but has made rapid prog- editor of "Punch " Mr. Knight, of the;
ress, and stands almost shoulder to " Athenaeum " Mr. Sala, of the " Tele-
;
shoulder with living. In three or four graph"; Mr. Yates, of the -World";
years he has secured a prominence which Mr. Clement Scott, Mr. Saville Clarke,
no one dared prophesy for him. The and the industrious Mr. Sims, who both
production of "Claudiau" and similar writes and criticises plays. If the Lon-
plays marks a new era at the old and don stage has not yet produced artists
well known Princess's. Of good come- to take the place of Phelps and Buck-
dians, men and women, London has no stone, and of Adelaide Neilson, there is
lack ; many of them are as familiar no reason to believe that it will not one
to the American as to the English pub- day find them and it seems certain that
;
lie: .Mr. ami Mis. Kendal, Mr. ami at no remote period England will have
Mrs. Bancroft, Mr. David James, Mr. a school of contemporary comedy writers
Arthur Cecil, Mr. Hart Conway, Mr. as good as those of the old days. The
Charles Wyndham,
Mr. Toole, Miss obstacles that block the way at present
Ellen Terry, Miss Calhoun (an Ameri- arc the indisposition of the public to
can girl, who has made a fine reputa- listen to the treatment of English social
tion in London), Mr. Forbes Robert- topics with the frankness with which
son. Mr. Terriss (who appears to have French comedians can discuss French
been created expressly to act harmoni- society, and the ease with which a
ously and impressively with our brilliant French piece can be adapted, remodelled,
compatriot, Miss Anderson), and others ami anglicized, so as to make a de-
less known outside of London, yet who lightful work, free from guile, and
compare favorably with the actors and sparkling with wit. English society is
actresses of Vienna. With bright fun so different in many small and, at first
and burlesque London is amply sup- sight,imperceptible, particulars, even

plied and a house in which the orches-
;
from American society, that when Mr.
tra stalls are occupied by country Branson Howard undertook, in con-
parsons and their families, or by prim junction with Mr. Albery, the adaptation
old dowagers from the upper circles of of " The Banker's Daughter "
to a Lon-
soine rich county, will listen wit] t don stage, he was met in almost every
apparent prudishness to what would scene with the remark from his co-
scareelv pass unchallenged on the Amer- laborer, "That will not do here; that
ican stage. What Mr. Mr. Irving, must be changed. Our audiences would
Barrett, and one or two others have not understand that; the young lady
done for tin' London theatre is to raise would not do that in London ;" and so on
it from the level of an amusement to ad infinitum.
that of an art For those who wish The "Rotten Row" has sometimes
merely to be amused the la.te Mr. Byron been thought to derive its odd name
and the very lively and witty Mr. Albery, from Route du Hoi — the King's Way ;
as well as the perennial Mr. Gilbert, but Mr. Timbs tells us that the name
the Siamese twin of Sir Arthur Sulli- "rotten" is distinctly to be traced to
rotteran, to muster. This seems natural mob demonstration at the time of the
enough, as Hyde Park was used for a firstReform Bill broke its windows,
muster-ground during the civil war, and whereupon the old Duke put up iron
many great reviews have been held shutters, which remained there during
there. must be a very ugly day in-
It his lifetime. Apsley House is famous
deed when " Rotten Row,'' in Hyde for its picture-gallery, in which the
Park, is not tilled during the high season Waterloo banquet was annually held on
from Ave to seven o'clock, and often in the 15th of dune, until 1852. It con-
the morning hours, with throngs of tains one of the most noted Correggios
pretty women of all ages from sixteen in the world. Stafford House, the town
to sixty, escorted by gay young cava- residence of the Duke of Sutherland,
liers, or by hale and fat old millionnaires dates from the early part of this century.
and members of Parliament, peers and Here the hospitable Duke receives com-
promoters of companies, merchants and pany from all parts of the world and ;
professional men, taking their ride, now and then the mansion, which is not
and exhibiting as pretty a command of unlike a Genoese palace, has a grand
noble horses as can be seen anywhere staircase, and is filled with celebrated
in the world. From all the aristocratic pictures and statues, is thrown open to
sections, — from
Grosveuor and Berke- persons who attend a concert or enter-
ley squares, from Park lane and May- tainment in aid of some charity. The
fair, from Belgrave square and St. picture-gallery House is
in Stafford
James's square, and even from the grave said to be the most magnificent room
and decorous district westward from in London. Murillo, Thorwaldsen, Cor-
Portland place, between Oxford street reggio, Lawrence, Ktty, ami Landseer
and Marylebone road; from Westbourne have contributed to the decoration of
terrace from the pretty districts around
; this noble house, built for the late Duke
Regent's Park, —
hundreds of horsemen of York, at whose death the lease was
and equestriennes take their way to the sold to the first Duke of Sutherland.
park after a late lunch, ride till dinner The Marquis of Westminster has a grand
time, and return home only in time to dress mansion, called Grosveuor House, in
for that repast. The fashionable day, Upper Grosvenor street, and it contains
to use an Hibernianism, is in the night. Murillos, Titians, Guidos, Rembrandts,
The daylight hours are spent in vigor- a miraculous Paul Potter, and a group
ous recruiting of the energies which have of the best works of Rubens, four of
been exhausted by " ball and rout " (for which were bought out of a Spanish
the English still use the old-fashioned convent for £10,000. The Duke of
" rout"), by receptions and dinner-par- Devonshire has a plain, rather ugly,
ties, crushes in the salons of the am- mansion, called after his title, in Picca-
bassadors, or late suppers after the dilly. It is not strange that a man who
theatre. During the " season" most of has so splendid a country home as
the noble town houses of the aristocracy Chatsworth should not care for an expen-
are occupied. Some of these are veri- sive London residence. In Lansdowne
table palaces, worthy of the best days of House, belonging Marquis of
to the
Italy. Apsley House, the old home of Lansdowne, Priestley made the discov-
the Duke of Wellington, at Hyde Park ery of oxygen, and in the picture-gallery
Corner, is above a century old, and a there hang the portraits of Hogarth, of
Peg Woffington, and of the painter him- served for her assemblies the seal of
self. The Marquis of Hertford, Sir distinction, and every one who was in-
Robert Peel, Lionel de Rothschild, the vited them regarded the invitation as
to
Duke of Bedford, the Earl of Dudley, an honor, although he was not single in
the Duke of Norfolk', and many other the enjoyment of it." There was no
noblemen have fine collections of paint- resort in London so interesting to the
ings, ancient and modern. man of the world, or so useful to the
London speedily impresses the stranger politician. Ministers went there to ascer-
as a town of men. At first sight the tain the true current of public and polite
foreigner moving about in the great opinion. Mr. Escott goes on to tell us
metropolis seems to discover in it no that " more than one great lady has tried
place in |inlilie for the (rentier half of to fill the place left vacant by Lady
the human While in Paris one
race. Palmerston," but that she has uniformly
funis ladies almost everywhere that gen- failed, because her invitations were in
tlemen may go, in London they seem to the hands of, and were issued by, secre-
lie confined to their homes, to the parks, taries, whips, and clerks. He adds that
and lo brief excursions from their car- the great leaders of the two chief politi-
riages to shops. At the theatre, and at, cal parties in the state cannot and will
some of the fashionable restaurants, not study the art of social entertain-
brilliant toilets and pretty faees may lie ment, and that dinners and receptions
seen ; hnt the exterior of London is not are given as matters of necessity and not
sufficiently inviting to draw forth the of choice.
ladies daily and at all hours, as one may A considerable political influence is
see them in Lon-

Paris and Vienna. In doubtless wielded by the mistresses of
don the masculine mind is supreme. many country-houses, who enjoy good
From time to time there have been salons position and large fortune, and who can
governed by ladies of distinction and invite to their homes large categories of
having a wide influence, as in Paris, hnt celebrities every year. A ladywho lives
now they scarcely exist. Mr. Escott for six months in a palatial home only
tells us that it is " because the social two or three miles from the metropolis,
conditions of English society have and who assembles about her. the best
changed that the salon, in the sense in minds of the times, sometimes takes
which it is usually spoken of, has almost pleasure in giving these minds an im-
ceased to exist, rather than because no pulse and watching the result of that
opportunities or inducements are to lie impulse, during the four or five months
found to influence polities through so- of the high season, when the political
ciety." He also tells us that Lady and intellectual activity of London is at

Palmerston, who died in 1868, has had its best.Mr. Escott says that English
no successor. Lord Palmerston was in- society has been greatly modified since
debted for most of his influence and the Reform Hill of 1832, and that it at
popularity to the social tacl of his wife present comprises, closely blended to-
and to her salon. " Lady Palmerston," gether, the aristocracy, the democracy,
says Mr. Escott, " received not only and the plutocracy. He thinks the
at night, hnt in the day, and till her in- aristocratic principle has been .strength-
vitation cards were written with her own ened anil extended in its operation by
hand. By consummate skill she pre- the plutocracy, but the antagonism
between wealth and birth has long been lish, isequally pronounced in Liberals
disappearing. Yet the homage paid by and Conservatives. " Club-land " Pall —
society in England to the aristocratic Mall, St. James' street, Albemarle
principle is genuine. In clubs the blend- street, Hanover square — is a curious
ing of aristocracy and plutocracy con- district. The club structures are truly
stantly goes on, although the plutocrat palatial, imposing — models of comfort
often has to submit to extreme rudeness within. Hundreds of men may be seen
on the part of the aristocratic gentlemen at eleven o'clock in the morning, loung-
whose society and courts.
he covets ing :il the windows, looking at the muddy
Many a newly enriched Englishman streets and dull houses, apparently think-
makes himself permanently unhappy by ing of nothing and doing nothing. These
forcing his way into a club the other gentlemen are faultlessly dressed, have a
members of which owe their wealth to languid air, and a Frenchman would
their parents, and are beginning to accuse them of being troubled with
assume that haughtiness which appears spleen. The truth is that most of these
to accompany remoteness from trade in gentlemen are active enough in their
Great Britain. " To belong to a club," special and peculiar directions, social,
remarks Mr. Escott, " does not neces- political, or even commercial. The daily
sarily guarantee a personal acquaintance lounge at the club is a part of the " good
with any one of the members." "In some form " which, is so requisite to the Lon-
clubs where a less rigid system of eti- doner of the upper classes. In the Re-
quette exists it is not thought irregular form and the Carlton, and at Brooks,
for one member to address another of nearly all the political celebrities of Eng-
whom he knows nothing if they happen land may be seen some time during the
to occupy contiguous chairs in the smok- season. If a foreign visitor could stand
ing-room. In such matters as these, and in Pall Mall for twelve hours, and have
in many others, every London club of pointed out to him by some one familiar
importance has special features of its with London
faces the gentlemen who
own." Clubs, he thinks, are useful as a go and out of the clubs, he would, be-
in
connecting link between society and fore two o'clock in the morning, have
statesmanship. The Liberal clubs are seen two-thirds of the leading English-
more comprehensive and homogeneous men. The clubs of the Army and
than the Conservative clubs. The Carl- Navy, of the Athenaeum, the Travellers',
ton, the Conservative head-quarters, is the United Service, the Union, Ox-
"a purely political and social institu- ford and Cambridge, the Oriental, the
tion — the accepted rendezvous and Junior Carlton are thronged every day
head-quarters of the accredited repre- during the eight or nine months of the
sentatives of a party. The Reform Club year with the wittiest, brightest, the
lacks political uniformity among its mem- most powerful, and the bravest. So long
bers, and a pervading consciousness of a as these clubs maintain their present posi-
political purpose." This English view tion, the salon with ladies in command
of the two great representative and op- is not likely to reappear. Eastward,
posing English clubs must, I think, have and in the Strand, and
Covent Gar- in
special interest for us. The passion for den are the literary, and theat-
artistic,
exclusiveness, so foreign to the Ameri- rical chilis; and the G arrick Club house,
can character, so prominent in the Eng- in Covent Garden, and the Savage, in the
Savoy, are familiar to all travelled Amer- of the Six Services ; clubs of the Church
icans. two club organizations

In one or of England; clubs for yacht-owners;
the rather unwonted experiment of bring- clubs for the promotion of canoeing ; for
ing ladies and gentlemen together lias the cultivation of chess; diplomatic
been encouraged, but has met with small clubs; fat-cattle clubs, and clubs for
whist ; as well as clulis politi-
cal, literary, artistic, and
theatrical. There are Shake-
speare, " New Shakspere,"
Plato, and Goethe societies;
and lately, societies for the
study of even contemporary
poets, as Browning, which
often draw upon themselves
considerable ridicule by their
enthusiasm. The Browning
society is active in study of the
great poet to whose fame it has
devoted its efforts. Of course
Mr. Browning, a man of ex-
ceptionally robust and serious
sense, though most kindly and
unassuming in social contact,
has nothing to do with the cu-

rious association which assumes
ROBERT BROWNING. bis name. The yacht clubs,

with their club-houses at
success. London has clulis for people ('owes, Queenstown, Har-

Southsea,
interested in mountain explorations, in wich. Oban, Rothesay, Southampton,
sporting and coaching for amateur artists
: Kyde, and Greenhithe on the Thames,
and collectors of art for merchants and
: nearly all are presided over by aristo-
bankers; for officers in the Easf India craticcommodores, the Prince of Wales,
service; for gentlemen devoted to the Duke of Edinburgh, Duke of Connaught,
noble art of pigeon-shooting : polo clubs Lord Richard Grosvenor, Prince Edward
in great numbers; clubs for improving of Saxe Weimar, ami others, all paying
the breed of dogs clubs for the officers
; special attention to this sort of sport.
CHAPTER SEVENTY-TWO.
The Strand. —A Historic Avenue. — The City and Country Types. — English Love for Nature. — The
Farmer and his Troubles.— Rural Beauty in Warwickshire and Derbyshire. — The Shakespeare
Festival in 1879. — Stratford. — Birmingham, the " Toy Shop of Europe."
"ATTOWIIERE does the pulse of Lon- night to discuss grave questions, and are
-L> don beat more feverishly than in known as the latest club men in London.
the "Strand," —
the long and crowded In Norfolk street lived William Penn.
avenue which leads from Charing Cross Dr. Johnson and Boswell often took
to the site of the ancient Temple Bar. supper at the Whittington Club, still in
Here all classes of English society meet existence. Exeter street lived the
In
and jostle as nowhere else within the bookseller from whom Johnson and his
limits of three-quarters of a mile every pupil Garrick borrowed £o on their joint
day, and especially for an hour or two note when they came up to London
first ;
after dinner. Here, too, vice flaunts its and at a wigmaker's, in Maiden Lane,
dirty wretchedness as it dares not do Voltaire lived during most of his three
in New York or Paris. London will not years' stay in England. It was the
have its social irregularities classified or flood of reminiscences and the proces-
licensed, and gives them full liberty in sion of ghostly figures from the roman-
certain quarters. On the evening of a tic past that made Charles Lamb,
great national holiday the spectacle in as he quaintly tells us, " often shed tears
the Strand, and in many streets leading for fulness of joy at sight of so much
from it, is often shocking. Almost every life in the Strand."
foot of the historic thoroughfare (which Half the gentlemenwhom one meets
got name from being at the brink of the
its on Regent street or in Piccadilly
Thames) has its interest. In North- have what we should call in Amer-
umberland Court Nelson lodged, and ica a "country air." There is in
Ben Jonson when a boy.
lived In their dress and in their manner a name-
Craven street Benjamin Franklin long- less something which betrays the fact
resided. In York House, now replaced that, they spend the greater part of their
by a shop in the Strand, Lord Bacon time outside the walls of a large city.
was born. In Buckingham street lived Put them on horseback in the park and
old Samuel Pepys. At the Adelphi they appear more at ease than in the
Lady Jane Grey was married. At crowded and fashionable thoroughfares.
Coutts Bank Queen Victoria keeps her Nine out of ten of them much prefer the
private account. In Cecil street Con- easy and luxurious comfort of their
greve invented the rocket. In Fountain secluded homes, buried in the depths of
Court Blake the painter died. At No. blossoming gardens, and surrounded by
132 Strand stood the old Drake's Head blooming hedges in summer, and still
Coffee-house, of which Dr. Johnson was keeping in winter something of the ver-
so fond. In Arundel street is the durous richness for which the rainy
Arundel Club, whose members sit up all island is famous, rather than the hurry
r i ii*l smoke of the metropolis. To the gardens, greenhouses and fruit orchards ;
tenacity with which the Englishman in and one sees healthy and placid people
comfortable circumstances clings to his quietly enjoying an unambitious and
country or suburban home, and refuses pleasant existence, — not a sellish one,
id be ranged and numbered as a constant hut one lilled with hospitality, and of en
dweller in the city, may be ascribed the graced by refined thought and expression
enduring individuality so marked in of it. The passion for hunting helter-
England. In truth, the great cities skelter over fields, without much regard
throughout the islands might almost he to whom they belong, has received grave
regarded as blots upon the exquisite checks both in England and Ireland
landscapes. There caii lie few more since the land agitation has begun. Mr.
startling transitions than that from the Anthony Trollope has told us no little
sylvan tranquillity of the country round about it in the pretty story of " The
about Chatsworth the smudge and
to American Senator." and the daily press
prosaic gloom of Birmingham or the ; has sufficiently enlightened us as to the
arrival in Liverpool after a day's wan- peril to Irish aristocrats who try to follow
derings through the quaint streets in the hounds and sometimes find them-
ancient Chester, or the journey from selves facing an infuriated Hibernian
Warwickshire by a swift train into Lon- mob. Going down from London to
don. Louis Blanc used to say that, in Portsmouth, one day in midsummer, I
France, there was li

an abyss between the observed that all my fellow-travellers in
city and the country. " Surely there is thecompartment looked out of the win-
also a sharp separation and difference in dow with great eagerness, and presently
England town and country.
between I discoveredthey were noting the
The wealthy Englishman delights in game ; whenever a grouse appeared,
that
rusticity. lie apes none of the foreign or a bare scudded away to shelter, they
distaste for green meadows and for robust found an amount of pleasure in the
exercises. Ninety-nine Englishmen out spectacle which it was quite out of my
of one hundred feel a thrill when par- power to share. These people live close
ticipating in the vigorous sports of the to Nature, finding a charm in the con-
country-side : the fox hunt, with its trast of Nature's vvildness in one region
brutal pursuit of the wily but fleet enemy with her complete subjugation to and
of the fanner; the leaping of fences marriage with art in another close beside
and water-courses the heavy fall the ; ; it. The era of small farms, minute sub-
assemblage over the sherry bottle before divisions of tilled land.which would —
and after the ride, and the discussion do away with the great " plantations,"
after dinner of the day's outing. The as they are called, and with the unculti-
blissful glow which follows a complete vated places where one who can pay for
use of bodily strength all day in the the privilege may hunt as frequently as
open air is thought finer by many an primitive man did, —
would he looked
Englishman than the Italian's ecstatic de- upon as an unfortunate period by hun-
light at the opera, or the Oriental's semi- dreds of thousands of Englishmen. The
swoon in the rapture induced by perfect arrival of the peasant proprietor on the
climate and lack of aggressive nerves. scene would he thought to take away its
Everywhere in the country one finds chief attraction Yet that advent is near
noble houses, line lawns, beautifully kept at hand. In many a country a rich land-
owner finds his tenant-farmers giving up open 1 > v the aristocrat, ami by -and-by
in disgust under the pressure of foivign discovers that he is heir to the difflcul-
agricultural competition, bad seasons, and ties in presence of which the ai isto rat
poor harvests. The gentleman owner

discovers that he must let land lie fallow
and the agricultural laborer is driven
by sheer distress to think of creating
an independent position. Tenant-

tanners, where they are not disposed to
give up, are becoming more exacting.
I roubles rise out of the very soil to
cluster about the once happy and thor-
STOPPING THE HINTING.
oughly independent landed proprietor, had lost his courage. Yet land is the
The great aristocrats make concessions thing most coveted bv men of newly
in the hope of tiding over the temporary acquired wealth in England, and will be
incomes are diminished, and
difficulties, so for many a lone' year to come. The
people shift their investments from land ' Statesman's Year Book" of 1884 shows
in England to land in Dakota or Egypt, that while the cultivated area in the
The plutocrat pops into the place left kingdom has increased by nearly ten
thousand acres since 1881, the area un- essay will there lie found much sighing
der all kinds of crops has decreased by after the soft South, with its semi-tropi-
forty thousand acres. cal warmth and profusion of flowers.
In London one gets the idea that Eng- The Northerner rejoices in the rngged-
land is perplexed with a thousand difficul- ness of his hills, his stormy shores, his
ties, — annoyed by innumerable anxie- mysterious mists and fogs, his quaint
ties. The atmosphere is one of unrest. rocks and inlets. Midland people boast
The talk' is of a military expedition to of their ereat parks and noble pastures,
some remote country, the haps ami their splendid castles and well-kept
mishaps of commerce, the phases of the farms and the Southerners, of the grassy
;
•• Eastern Question," the consolidation downs, and sheltered nooks where even
of the Colonial Empire, the future of exotic shrubs prosper, and where in
Egypt, the advance of Russia, the com- summer there is a luxuriance of vegeta-
petition of America, and the discontent tion and blossom worthy of the Medi-
of Ireland. But it is easy to get out terranean shores. If one wishes to get
of this atmosphere of uncertainty and an adequate notion of the supreme con-
ambition into a serencr England, where tent of the Englishman with his island
the present in nowise disturbs the repose home let him attack its advantages and
of the past and the beauty of its ac- belittle its excellences. He will soon
cumulated memorials. However much find sturdy responses to all his strictures
London may lie convulsed with stormy and criticisms. Both the English and
discussions which seem to involve the French are fond of comparing every-
future of the whole British Empire, the thing they see abroad with something at
peasants and the middle classes one or home, and of making comparisons advan-
two hundred miles away from the capi- tageous to their own possessions.
tal are but little interested by these A curious feature of the country dis-
debates. In the pleasant country towns England is often remarked, par-
tricts in
things go on in the same old dreamy ticularly by American travellers. Al-

and tranquil way in which they have though it is said that Great Britain is
been progressing for hundreds of years. intensely populated the country does
The great land-owner is secure in his not appear to be so thickly settled as in
castle, and appears unconscious of the the older portions of the United States.
fiery utterances of Mr. Chamberlain. Thousands of acres are given up to'' plan-
The " Squire " is not in the slightest tations " of young trees. >ne may travel (
tear of approaching revolution, and the miles without meeting a human being or
peasantry seem scarcely to have heard without seeing a farm. The roads, ex-
of the great changes supposed to be im- cepting in the vicinity of the great
pending. There is little doubt that they manufacturing towns, are uever crowded.
all know that a silent transformation is Driving or walking through Warwick-
beginning; but they make little allusion shire or Derbyshire one does not meet at
to il. every turn, as in France, Belgium, and
The rural beauty of England is so other continental countries, peasants
great that the Englishman is excusable going and coming from market, or
to
for extreme pride which he takes
the working by the roadside, or bands of
in and for his enthusiasm in the de-
it, strollers. One is often tempted to stop
scription of it. In no English novel or and inquire where the people have gone.
;
The ancient towns seem unlikely to be like air with which the custodians exact
awakened from their immemorial sleep. sixpence for access to the birth-room,
The birth-place of Shakespeare is as and sixpence to the museum. At the
quiet as it was three hundred years tercentenary Shakespeare anniversary
ago. and festival, held at Stratford in 1879,
In Warwickshire, in Derbyshire, and there was a great gathering of Shake-
in theLake Region, the rural beauty of spearian scholars and commentators, and
England is manifest in its perfection. of the lovers of poetry and the drama,
Here are no mighty glens, no lofty to witness the dedication of the Memo-
mountains, no enormous lakes or majes- rial Theatre, which now stands in a. pleas-
tic streams ; but, although everything is ant garden on the banks of the river.
on a modest scale, it forms a harmo- This simple and unpretentious festival,
nious picture which is absolutely enchant- which lasted for several days, seemed to
ing. Stratford, with its quaint streets, awaken but small enthusiasm among the
its sleepy church among the noble trees, country people in the neighborhood,
its flowery by com-
lanes bordered some of whom would perhaps have been
fortable Warwick, with its
cottages; puzzled who Shakespeare was.
to tell
ancient hospital and its noble castle But no monument can be so appropri-
(harlecote, where Sir Thomas Lucy, ate as this stately pile of Elizabethan
whom Shakespeare lampooned as " Jus- architecture — this theatre, with museum,
tice Shallow," built a rambling hall in library, and picture-gallery, attached.
Queen Elizabeth's reign ; Hampton Lucy A company of London comedians per-
Luddington, in whose Shake- church formed the comedy of " Much Ado About
speare is said to have been married Nothing." Actors and actresses, in the
Coventry, with numerous spires, its
its intervals of their labor, joined in pretty
legends and embowered streets
its — excursions in the evergreen byways and
all these in midsummer are surpassingly the verdurous fields. Perhaps sonic clay
beautiful. To go from London to Bir- there will lie founded a school of acting,
mingham by the old highway, the travel the influence of which will do much to
on which is said to have contributed improve the public taste for Shakespeare
to the up-building of Stratford before and his works. The theatre is but a
Shakespeare's birth in that town had little distance from the village church, and
made it a place of pilgrimage, takes above the tomb in this church is the old
one through the exquisite Arden dis- monument which represents Shakespeare
trict, where the hedges, woods and cop- writing upon a cushion, with an entabla-
pices, the gentle hills, the beautiful valleys, ture bearing his coat-of-arms above the
the " mooted granges " of which Tenny- niche in which his image appears.
son speaks, the winding streams and wild The famous Inns at Stratford are small
glens, offer a perpetual feast to the eyes. and quaint. The "Bed Horse" has
Stratford itself is familiar to all the been immortalized by Washington Irv-
world, and I therefore shall uot attempt ing, and the Shakespeare Hotel has its
to describeit. The Shakespeare house, rooms adorned with paintings illustrating
where " Nature nursed her darling boy," the chief scenes in the great poet's com-
has somewhat the aspect of a museum, edies and tragedies. The waiters in this
and the temptation to meditate within unique hostelry have long been ac-
its walls is lessened by the business- customed to designate each room by the
640 EUROPE IN STORM A XI) CALM.
name of the play from which its painting member. Old Hatton, in the eighteenth
is taken, and in the morning, before the century, made a prophecy concerning the
guests have emerged, one hears the future grandeur of industrial Birming-
servants calling out: "Hamlet wants ham. He said: "We have only seen
his boots; Ophelia wants liis hot water; her in infancy, comparatively small in
Julius ( !sesar wants his brandy and wafer ; her size, homely in her person, and "loss
Coriolanus wishes his breakfast sent in her dress, — her ornaments mostly of
up at once." Throughout Warwickshire iron from her own forge; lint now her
the common people have a curious flavor growth will he amazing, her expansion
in their speech, a dry humor, and odd rapid, perhaps not to he paralleled in
forms of expression, which it is perhaps history. She
add to her iron orna-
will
not presumptuous to characterize as ments the lustre of every metal that

Shakespearian, [n drawing his peasantry the whole earth can produce, with all
the poet simply put his immortal wit and their illustrious race of compounds,
his pungent philosophy into the homely heightened by fancy and garnished
phrase which he heard every day around with jewels. draw from
She will
him; and a great contemporary novelist, the fossil and vegetable kingdoms;
in following this illustrious example, press the ocean for her shell, skin and
shows that the men of England ean coral. She will also tax the animals
talk to-day as picturesquely as they did for horn, hone, and ivory ; and she will
three centuries ago. decorate the whole with the touches of

In Birmingham one steps out of the her pencil."
domain of history and souvenir, and Birmingham has done all this, even
conies down to the prosaic present. more. To the far Orient she sends or-
Birmingham has no older history than naments of every description to Prussia, ;
that of many of the towns of New to India, and to America, she exports
England. It took no part in the brass and iron, steel and silver, and
politics of the nation before the be- bronze and gold. She enrages the
ginning of the present century, except, French by making their "Articles de
when Charles 1. and his Parliament Paris;" she makes copper coins for half-
were at war. Then Birmingham was a-dozen governments.. lei' silver andI
zealous in the cause of the " Bound her electro-plating, her brass foundries,
Heads." and even seized the Royal her chemical works, her guns, swords,
plate which King Charles left when pass- pistols, jewelry and trinkets, her lamps,
ing through the town from Salisbury to her pins, her ornamental lilass, — these
Loudon. Birmingham was punished for are scattered over " The
the world.
this audaciousby Prince Rupert'sact Toyshop of Europe" is a proper name
plundering expedition on the following for Birmingham. She applies the same
year. It seems odd to reflect that Bir- energy and patience to the fabrication
mingham had no representation in Par- of a pin that she does to the construc-
liament until after the passage of the tion of an hydraulic jack big enough
Reform Bill of 1832, — a triumph for to launch theGreat Eastern, or raise the
which the Political Union had worked Cleopatra Needle to its pedestal on the
vigorously. Not until after the repre- Thames embankment. Her public build-
sentation of ••The People's Act." in ings and parks, her statues, her non-
1866, did Birmingham get its third conformist churches; her memorials of
-;
EUROI'K IN STORM AND CALM. MX

Peel and Priestly,Watt and Boulton, " Adam Bede." Rowsley, and the
Murdock and Eglington her halls, from
; ancient Peacock Inn ; the old seats
which have of the Dukes
gone forth such of Rutland
splendid utter- stately Chats-
ances in favor worth, with its
of Liberalism, long halls filled
— are all worthy with drawings

of her wealth by Raphael,
and the taste and with its
of her citizens. costly gardens,
The varied in- conservatories,
dustry, how- orchid houses ;
ever, has left Matlock, Buck-

itsstain on the stone, Bickwcll
town, which, and Words-
like Manchester worth, II a rd
and Liverpool, wick Hall and
is dingy, cold, Bolsover Cas-
and a trifle re- tle, — stand in
pellant in ap- the midst of

pearance. romantic val-
Hawthorne leys, walled in
states that in GEORGE ELIOT. by rocky and

Derbyshire is foliage - clad
to be found the most exquisite scenery he crags, tilled with grottos, nooks, charm-
ever beheld. Thither George Eliot went ing streams, and well-kept forests.
for the scenery and her characters for
«42 EUROPE IX STORM AXD CALM.
CHAPTER SEVENTY-THREE.
The Lake Country. — The Home of Poets and Essayists. —
Scotland. — Glasgow, its Commerce and its
Antiquities. — The (neat Northern Seaport. —

Edinburgh and its Memorials. — The Home of
Burns.
f|"MlE " Lake Country " of England Miss Martineau lived for many years.
-*- has for us a double interest be- Not far away is Dr. Arnold's old house,
cause of the indefinable charm asso- where the great Rugby master used to
ciated with its richly clad hills, its pretty come in vacation time to recruit from 1
expanses of water, and its rich valleys, his arduous duties. In the vale of Gras-
.•mil because the district was once the mere Mrs. Hemans wrote some of her
home of Wordsworth, De Quincey, most sentimental verse. De Quincey and
Southey, Arnold, Harriet Martineau, and Wordsworth both lived for short periods
Mrs. Hemans. There are in till this in Grasmere village, and there in the
district no mountains which rise above bumble church-yard is the grave of

the height of four thousand feet, no Wordsworth.
lakes which we should account large; It is but a short walk from Amble-
hut hike and valley, and forests and side to Rydal Mount, the favorite home
country roads, are all in the most ex- of the poet. —a charming cottage hid-
quisite setting. Here and there, on the den under ivy and rose-trees, the very
"Fells" and "Sears." as the\ are place for contemplation and the cultiva-
called, there are bits of wild scenery tion of the muse. Professor Wilson
approaching the grand. One should used to say there was " uot such another
enter this district by Grange, after cross- splendid view inall England as can be
ing what Wordsworth " the majes-

called had from the eminences along the road
tic barrier of the Lancaster sands," and from Ambleside. The views of Winder-
which annually demands the lives of mere from this route are indeed delight-
many uncautious and after
travellers; ful. The islands lie clustered together;
an excursion to old Furness Abbey and the lakes seem like a grand tranquil river
to Ulverstone, one may set off through bending around a point. Bold or
the crumbling villages and sheltered gentle promontories," adds Professor
roads to Windermere and Coniston, near Wilson, " break all the banks into fre-
which latter lake John Ruskin has a quent bays, seldom without a cottage,
country-seat. Thence one may go to or cottages, embowered in trees, and
Ambleside, where a day or two at the the whole landscape is of a sylvan kind;
old "Salutation" tavern will be found parts of it are so studded with woods
a perfect rest. This pretty country is that you see only here and there a wreath
dotted with mansions and picturesque of smoke, but no houses, and could al-
cottages. At Elleray stood the old most believe that you were gazing on
home of Professor Wilson (Christopher the primeval forests."
North). Close by Ambleside is the ivy- From Ambleside to Keswick the route
shrouded house or " The Knoll," where is charming, and in holiday time is
thronged with excursionists from London. the strange land which has produced so
At Keswick is the old home of Southey, inany great men, —
the land where Carlyle
— Greta Hall, — on a small hill, close by was born, aud where he lies buried, one —
a pretty river, on the road to Cocker- sees the landscape lighted up by hun-
month. Lake Derwentwater, with its dreds of weird flames, the skies aglow ;
picturesque islands, 'with its silvery ex- and many a stranger, taking his first
panses, within an amphitheatre of rocky walk in Glasgow city, inquires of the
but not high mountains, broken into amused passers-by where the great con-
fantastic shapes, heaped and splintered flagration is in progress. By day the
with little precipices, with shores swelling flaming chimneys and the little moun-
into woody eminences — is the gem of tains of coal refuse do not look so
this region. Near it is the resounding interesting. Glasgow has its beauties,
cascade, Lodore, about which Southey however, — its broad and solid commer-
wrote his astonishing verses, intended cial avenues, lined with stately stone
to represent the babble of the waters, buildings, its shops, which \ie in splen-
for the amusement of his children. dor and importance with those of London
Near by also are the mountains of and Dublin. The great wharves along
Ilelvellyn and Skiddaw. the Broomielaw are packed with goods
Scotland has for us a romantic in- of every description little steamers on ;
terest which nothing can abate, although the Upper, and great steamers on the
long years have passed since the " en- Lower, Clyde, seem almost innumerable.
chanter of the north " aroused the cu- Down river the shipbuilding yards are,
riosity of the world concerning the even in dull and panicky times, crowded
legends and the history of the great with thousands of operatives, who toil
northward promontory, with its moun- upon the iron and steel monsters, which
tains, morasses, and waste lands jutting plough the seas throughout the civilized
out into the Northern sea. Scotland world. One feels that here is a great
does not impress one as a sterile country, outlet like Loudon, Antwerp, or Mar-
aud yet three-fourths of its surface are seilles. Here the pulse of commerce
unproductive agriculturally- Scarcely beats strongly, albeit not feverishly.
more than five millions of acres are There is a sturdy independence of the
under cultivation on the main land and metropolis in Glasgow, as indeed through-
the numerous islands. But the little out Scotland. The names of celebrated
population of hardly more than four English authorities in science and in
millions of people is one of the most literature, of English poets and painters,
prosperous and interesting in Europe. are not so often heard here as those of
Glasgow is to-day the second city in the the Edinburgh school. Scotland is not
United Kingdom, larger, but perhaps England, although it is now an integral
not wealthier, than Liverpool, and is one part of Great Britain. It is an individual
of the great ocean termini of the world. country, with a profound originality, with
Approaching Glasgow by night, through its old customs and methods of thought
the picturesque upland country which but little trenched upon by political union
lies between Keswick, Penrith, and with the South. One-third of its popula-
Carlisle, and crossing the debatable tion is packed into eight large manufact-
ground where for centuries the borderers uring cities: Glasgow with 770,000,
waged merciless war upon each other, Edinburgh with 23G,000, Dundee with
"
(VI I EUROrE IN STORM AND CALM.
143,000, Aberdeen with 105,000, Green- the law to execute the decree. From
ock, the port of Glasgow, with 66,000, many n point of vantage among the vast
Leith, the port of Edinburgh, with 59,000, marble monuments in the Necropolis
Paisley with 55,000, and Perth with 28,- one can look out over Glasgow, with its
000. The total town and village popu- thousands of chimneys, along the seeni-
lation is two-thirds of the whole, — very ingly endless lines of masts on the Clyde,
small encouragement for the farmer; yet and over the hills of Lanark and Argyll,
the wild hill country, stretching away from above which hangs the vaporous blue or
the outskirts of Glasgow to Cape Wrath the peculiar gray so noticeable in .Scottish
and the far Hebrides, contributes largely scenery. Glasgow is faithful to the
of the great " Scotch Wizard
;
t<> the wealth of the busy city; poms memory
into it its flocks and herds, and the prod- and in the centre of George's square
nee of its lakes and inlets, and takes rises a monument of Sir Walter, with a
back merchandise brought from every group of statues illustrating the different
porl of the world. In the most seem- characters which sprang from his teem-
ingly inaccessible i k in the Highlands ing brain clustered about the foot of the
you may find evidence of frequent inter- monument. modern Glas-
Westward, in
course with the outer world. gow, is the opened

great University,
On the hill at the top of the famous half a generation ago. Glasgow is filled
"High Street" stands the old Gothic with students, —
hundred of painstaking s
cathedral, with its large aisles, broken by young men who come from the hills and
short transepts, its dozen bays exactly the shores of the inland lakes ami rivers
and its uniform elere-story windows,
alike, to carve out solid careers in the face
Nothing in all England is more beautiful of poverty and difficulty, nowhere
than the crypt of the cathedral, with its so stern and so persistent as in this
sixty-five beautiful surmounted pillars, strange, barren land, which yet produces
by delicately carved capitals and grace- so much wealth, intellectual and material.
ful early English arches, with the light As in certain quarters of London one
streaming in through the lancet windows, seems to go band in hand with Dickens,
Curious, too, is the old church-yard, and to meet in the different localities
paved with gravestones, and the Necrop- visited the characters which never had
olis, perched high on an eminence beyond existence save in his fiery imagination,
the cathedral, not unlike the fantastic so in Glasgow and Edinburgh one is
Odd Fellows' cemetery in San Francisco, constantly reminded of Sir Walter Scott
or like some ancient Turkish cemetery, and his creations. The Cross, the Gal-
Here are the monuments of celebrated lowgate, the Salt Market, the old corner
men like John Knox, the Reformer, and of Trongate and High streets, where
of Dr. Win. Black and within the cathe-
; stood the prison into which " Hob Roy"
dral is the tomb of Edward Irving. This was thrust Glasgow, and the Grass
in
old cathedral, which braved the fury of the market. Castle Dill, the Cowgate, St.
Reformation, was so loved by the city Giles's Church, Arthur's Seat. Canuon-
nestlingat its feet, that, when the Pres- gate, Holyrood, and most of all, Mel-
byterian ministers had prevailed on the rose, in and about Edinburgh, recall
magistrates in the sixteenth century to to mind those enchanting days when one
have it destroyed, the guilds of the city was first introduced to Walter Scott's
arose in arms and dared the officers of world. The Scotch do not hesitate to
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. r
G4. )
call Edinburgh the finest city in the its gardens, its deep dell, out of which
kingdom, and Mr. Baddeley tells us that arise the black crags of the Castle, is a
in no city, unless it be Bath, " has Art splendid avenue. At its east end is
so successfully turned to account the Calton Hill, and above it Waterloo

peculiar advantages vouchsafed to her Place, where stands a rather audacious
by nature. In both cities the archi- imitation of the Parthenon, called "
The
tects,whether designedly or not, seem National Monument." A little beyond
to have gone to work thoroughly in har- are the Nelson's monument and the
mony with the physical lines laid down Observatory; also the monuments to
for them, and their success is unques- Dugald Stewart and to Professor Play-
While the smooth green slopes
tionable. fair. Northward lies Leith and the
and woody meadows, forming the girdle Forth; eastward, Portobello, one of
of the Queen of the West,' called
' the sea-side resorts of Edinburgh ; and
forth a regular style of architecture close at hand is Arthur's Seat. On the
which should not displease the eye by south side of and not far
the street,
any startling discord, the rugged inequali- from the handsome Waverlv station, is
ties and sudden transition from smiling the beautiful gothic monument to Sir
plain to bare and frowning rock, which Walter Scott, with a statue of him
mark the site of the Modern Athens,' ' underneath the airy arches. In the
seem to demand a corresponding incon- Glasgow memorial, are
niches, as in the
gruity in their artificial treatment. characters from the works of the great
Edinburgh is a city of contrasts, bold poet,and novelist. Scotland has bor-
and striking." rowed boldly from the Greek architec-
The sense of contrast is heightened ture in the construction of its National
when one comes directly by swift ex- Gallery, and its museums. In Pahner-
press train from Glasgow to Edinburgh. ston Place stands a fine Gothic Cathe-
Unaccustomed to picturesqueness in the dral, — St. Mary's, — founded by two
great majority of British towns, tin' ladies, who spent £100,000 upon the
stranger is and delighted at the
startled edifice. Eastward, in Melville and
exquisite scene presented to him as he George streets, are many memorials
looks from hill to hill over the town and ami bronze statues, the Albert Memo-
the rugged castles, the noble monuments, rial, with the Prince Consort on horse-
and the line public edifices. New Edin- back, and the Melville Monument, —
burgh harmonizes well enough with the an imitation of the Trajan Column.
character of ancient Edinburgh, and this The great feature of Edinburgh is the
result, so rarely accomplished when an- Castle, which may be reached from the
cient cities have modern quarters added new town across the valley of th" Prin-
to them, has not been achieved without ces Street Gardens. — once the basin of
much study and care. This new quarter the Nor Loch, in which offenders against
was not in existence a century ago. and the laws were ducked, and so along —
the magistrates of the city, in order to by the Waverlv Bridge, or the " Mound,"
promote its creation, offered a premium as it is called, on which stands the
of £20 to the first builder of a house in National Gallery. The Castle is entered
it. Now it is a great district of fine through a portcullis gate under the Old
streets, squares, and monuments State Prison, whence two luckless
Prince's street, with its evergreen plots, Argylls, in the history of Scotland, have
;
646 EUROI'K IX STORM AND CALM.
been taken forth to execution, — one House, with its noble roofs of carved
for his loyalty to Charles II., and the oak, and its superb library; the Tron
other for his allegiance to .Monmouth. Church, where stood the weighing-beam
Those rather antiquated hits of furni- to which the keepers of false weights
ture, — the Regalia of Scotland, — have were nailed by the ears; the high, fan-
;i room to themselves, where they have tastic, narrow house in which John Knox
reposed since they were unearthed two lived from 1559 to the time of his death ;
generations ago
by a search-party, Moray House, from the balcony of
headed by Sir Walter Scott himself. which Mary Stuart and Lord Lome
They had been hidden away in the times looked down upon the Marquis of Mont-
of the Stuarts, in a fortress on the coast rose as he was led to execution ; the
at Kincardine, lest their exposure to view Canongate church-yard, where lie buried
should awaken feelings hostile to the Adam Smith, Dugald Stewart, and Dr.
treaty of Union with England. Queen Adam Ferguson Queensberry House
;
Mary's room. St. Margaret's Chapel, and the old White Horse Inn and ;
and the enclosure in which stands the last, and of most importance, the beauti-
ancient cannon, the origin of whose ful and original Holyrood Abbey and
inune of Mons Meg is a matter of such Palace, — these are

wonders and treas-
grave dispute, are the other chief features ures such towns in Great
as few other
of the Castle. The outlook over Edin- Britain can boast of, grouped together
burgh and tin' Frith of Forth and the by accident as well as if the grouping
hills of Fife beyond is fascinating. On had been in obedience to some harmo-
Castle Hill, the old house of the fust nious, preconceived design. In Holy-
Duke of Gordon, the General
Assembly rood Lord Darnley's rooms and Queen
room of the Church of Scotland, where Mary's apartments are still shown, and
John Knox met the first Assembly in at the entrance to the audience chamber
1560; the Free Church Assembly Hall dark stain upon the floor is pointed
a little
the (I rass Market, where hundreds of out as the blood of the unfortunate
Covenanters perished for their religion, Rizzio.
and where the Porteous riots took place From Glasgow and from Edinburgh
in 1736; Grey Friars' Church, with the the chief excursions are not, as might
tombs of the Covenanters the university ; be supposed in a country so devoted to
and museum with their splendid natural manufacturing and to the special pursuit
history collections Cowgate, James's
; of wealth, to coal mines, or great metal-
court, where Johnson was received by lurgic establishments, but to the homes
Boswell on his tour to the Western and graves of poets and romancers. The
highlands, and where Hume wrote part brief and pleasant ride from Glasgow
of his history of England; the Long- takes one through interesting old towns
market and High street, with St. (iilcs's like Paisley, where Christopher North
Church the old city Cross, the Tolbooth,
: was born ; likeIrvine, where Robert
or '-The Heart of Midlothian ;" Parlia- Bruce surrendered to the English army,
ment square, with its equestrian statue and where the poet Montgomery first
of Charles II. and the humble stone on saw the light past Troon, the great
;
which appear the letters and figures summer resort of the Ayrshires, near by
"I. K., 1572," supposed to lie the site the frowning ruins of Diindowning Castle,
of John Knox's grave; Parliament and brings one to Ayr, on the pretty sea-
"
coast at the month of the river of the was married to Jean Armour, and where
same name. Here, on this picturesque his plough turned up the mouse's nest;
country side, everything is tilled with and farther away, near Dumfries, is
memories of the poet whose lyric genius Kllisland farm, where Burns wrote Tain
lifted him into immortality- Here one
may wander along the Doon, visit the
Burns monument, in which may still lie
seen the Bible which Burns gave to "High-
land Mary," note the quaint statues of
Tarn O'Shanter and Souter Johnnie, in a
grotto, peep in at the Aukl Alloway
Kirk, the woodwork of which has nearly
all been carried off by the carving tour-
1 "r .^ ffiMmfJî
'
DEER-STALKING IN THE HIGHLANDS.
ists,and enter the rude cottage in which O'Shanter and the ode "To Mary in
the poet was born. Straying through Heaven." Thousands of pilgrims an-
the woods and fields from Mauchline to nually visit the humble house in Dmu-
Montgomerie, one comes upon the pretty fries, where Burns lived when he was
house where " Highland Mary" lived as exciseman, where lie died, and where, in
a dairy-maid, and ••Poosie Nansie's the vault beneath the mausoleum in St.
cottage, where the "Jolly Beggars" Michael's church-yard, the poet and his
met the farm at Mossgiel, where Burns
:
wife repose.
; —
CHAPTER SEVENTY-FOUR.
Scotland and Ireland. — The Scotch Highlands. —
Scenes of Scott's Stories and Burns s rooms.
Balmoral. — Over to Belfast. — The Irish Land League. — Imprisonment of Parnell and his Parti-
sans. — The Crimes Act and its Causes. — A Land League Mass Meeting. The Wild and Savage—
Peasantry.
the Scotch Highlands the " Globe when he crosses Loch Lomond without
INTrotter," who familiar with stately
is seeing the peaks and crags of which he
mountains, with yawning precipices, and litis heard so much, and concerning which
noble sea views, from India to Canada, he litis formed such tremendous expec-
is often tempted to stop and inquire of tations. In the Trossachs (the bristly
himself whether he would really be inter- country) when the sun shines brightly
ested in the Scottish uplands and hills through the oak copses, among the sil-
if it were not for their sturdy charm. very gray birches, and when it gilds the
Loch Lomond, with its guardian moun- purple crags and the rich carpets of
tains Loch Katrine, Stronaehlaehar,
; green grass, there is plenty of excuse
Tarbet, Callendar, Oban, the Caledonian for the wildest enthusiasm. The color
Canal, Inverness, the lands of Ross and charms of Scotland are mild as com-
Sutherland, the Isle of Lewis, with pared witli those of Switzerland and
pretty Stornoway the Isle of Skye, the
; Italy, hut to the dweller under the gray
Chain of Highlands, Staffa and lona and rainy skies of England they seem
the Crinan canal, threading its way surpassing!}' beautiful. Clasgow, which
through the moist green pastures, — these is by all reports one of the thirstiest
places arc till celebrated; but without towns in the three kingdoms, and which
the enthusiastic celebration of them by decs not always content itself with water,
writers and poets native to the soil they litis made Loch Katrine, which is thirty-
would have remained in comfortable ob- four miles from the city limits, its chief
scurity, enjoyed only by the shepherd, reservoir. For the building of the aque-
the fisher, and the bold hunter on the duct from the lake to the city a sum of
steep mountain sides. A certain inde- £1,500,000 was necessary, and seventy
finable attraction seems to exhale from tunnels had to he rebuilt. The leafy
Scotch scenery, even in the dispiriting glens tilled with labyrinths of rocks, and
environment of the mists which come so mounds studded with oak, rowan, and
frequently and stay so long. Out of the birch, are perhaps more weird in a rainy
great come dashing little
gray clouds than in a sunshiny day ; hut the greater
showers, which seem to have a kind of part of Scotch scenery needs sunshine
malice, and drench the traveller to the to bring out its values.
skin before he can reach shelter. In One of the noblest stretches of High-
these and mists, the lochs, with
rains land scenery is that which lies along the
their deep mountain walls, disappear as railroad from Callendar to the great
if by magic. The holiday tourist, whose fashionable seaside of Oban. The ride
time is limited, bemoans his sad fate from the Trossachs to Callendar is from
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 641)
end to end associated with Sir Walter pressing when performed in the midst of
Scott's poem of " The Lady of the Lake." a pouring At Ardrishaig great
rain.
At Vennachar the trav-

the foot of Loch steamers, equipped with American lux-
shown the spot where Roderick
eller is ury, with showy restaurants and hand-
Dim Hung- down his gage to Fitz James. some parlors, fly downward past Rothe-
It is a high tribute to creative genius that say, one of the most fashionable Scotch
the guides always speak of Sir Walter sea-sides, and thence by the Clyde to
Scott's characters as if they had really ( Sreenock.Northward from Oban leaves
lived. The route from Callendar to the great water-route of the Caledonian
Oban takes one through the pass of canal to Inverness through what is called
Lucy, where gentle heights, clad with the Great Glen of Scotland, which con-
silver birch, hazel, oak, and heather, sists of a chain of lakes connected by
rise gradually into irregular and majes- shallow streams. This route is so
tic hills. Loch Earn, Glenogle, Pilchurn straight that the steamer's course is only
Castle. Loch Awe, the passes of Brandon four miles longer than the air-line taken
and <if Awe. the bridge of Awe, around — by the crow in his migrations. On Loch
which cluster memories of Bruce and Ness is the celebrated fall of Fyers,
Wallace. —
and Dunstaffnage Castle, are sometimes described as the most magnifi-
all picturesque, and many of them im- cent cataract in Great Britain, and the
posing. Oban is a pretty town extend- one which inspired Robert Burns with a
ing along the shore of the semicircular poem. Inverness, the capital of the
bay which gives it its name, and which Highlands, is a well-built modern town,
seems landlocked by the island Kerrera. prosperous and canny. Near it is the
From Dunnolly Castle, a noble ivy- battle-field of Culloden, where the house
shrouded ruin, on a pedestal (if rock (in of Stuart met its final ruin nearly a cen-
the north end of Oban bay, the sea-view tury and a half ago and a lover of;
is delightful. In the harbor lie dozens Shakespeare can make an excursion to

of yachts, and from these little crafts there Cawdor Castle, a noble specimen of the
is always an influx of titled and aristo- old baronial strongholds of the north.
cratic ladies and gentlemen, who till the Landed proprietors in Scotland fully
hotels with the show and glitter of Lon- appreciate their privileges, and lease the
don; who delight in parties, mountain temporary enjoyment of them for enor-
excursions, and halls; who. in short, mous sums. Millais, the painter, and
carry into the remote recesses of the other artistic celebrities lease fishing
highland sea-shore the gaycty of the and hunting grounds for sums which
metropolis, exactly as the Frenchman would be thought ruinously extravagant
takes his theatre, his sweetheart, and his in America. John Millais is very fond
horse-racing with him when he goes to of painting in the Scotch Highlands,
the sea-side for what he is pleased to working energetically out of doors in
term his •mid-summer repose." Through rain or sunshine every day for months
the pretty archipelago one goes to the together, lovingly studying that nature
little bay of Crinan. whence by the At- which he knows so well how to repro-
lantic canal travellers are transferred to duce. The Queen, it is said, enjoys no
Ardrishaig, — a three-mile ride in a canal portion of her year so much as that spent
boat, something larger than a wash-tub. at Balmoral Castle, between Ballater and
— an excursion which is decidedly de- Braemar. All through this region the
scenery is wildly picturesque. Prince A

southward journey from Glasgow
Albert speedily felland in love with it, through the Frith of Clyde and across
there bought a handsome property, which the North channel brings the traveller
to-day comprises ten thousand acres of in a. single night from Glasgow to Belfast.
clearing, with inure than thirty thousand Scotland and Ireland have not much in
of deer forest. In this secluded retreat common, but the sturdy Scotch-Irish
the Queen receives only a few persons character produced by the intercourse
belonging to the Court and those semi- and crossing of the two races in southern
weekly messengers who bring from Lon- Scotland and northern Ireland is one of
don the constantly accumulating mass of the brightest composite elements of
papers which the royal hands are obliged American nationality. If all Ireland
to sign. could be permeated with the hard com-
Stirling, with its noble ancient castle, mon-sense of Scotland, and if all Scot-
which in 1304 resisted the battering of land could receive a diffusion of the gen-
all the besieging instruments brought erosity of the Irish nature, both countries
from the Towci- of London ; with its would be supremely benefited. In north-
monument to Bruce, its historic Town ern Ireland there is all the stir and ac-
House, and the Old Ridge, where the tivity of the energetic Scotch.
Scots under Wallace defeated the Eng- Leilas! , handsome and industrious,
lish ; Dunblane and Bannockburn, the seated on its pretty slopes on River
ruins of Linlithgow Palace, in the castle Logan, just before it flows into the lake,
of which Queen Alary was born — are is a strange contrast to the shiftless
all worthy of attention. Nobly situated towns of the south. The pushing Prot-
Perth, with its Roman memories, its estant merchants of Belfast are the
palace, in which the Scottish kings were envy of the lazier and less ambitious
crowned, and its quaint church of St. commercial men of Dublin and of the
John, where Joku Knox used to preach ; southward towns. Belfast grows with
Dundee, on the hanks of the Tav. with almost American quickness. It adds
its great range of docks covering more twenty or thirty thousand to its popula-
than thirty acres; and Aberdeen, on the tion every ten years. " This great and
Dee, with it> great lines of masts ex- flourishing city," says a local writer,
tending for miles, and its old brig of " with all its houses and inhabitants,
Balgownie, celebrated by Byron in Don stands on the territory of one proprietor,
Juan, — ample inducement to the
all offer the Marquis of Donegal, to whom the
student and the tourist. Loth Scotland whole town belongs, anil to whom the
and Spain have an extra European flavor citizens pay tribute." Belfast was pre-
which is quite piquant. Both are rugged sented by James I. to Sir Arthur Chi-
promontories extending into strange seas. chester as an insignificant village, and
Each has a certain wildness which is would, but for the long leases granted
fascinating, each a delightful history and by the former proprietor, have given to
crowded past, each a certain barrenness the Marquis of Donegal an income of
contrasted acutely with a perfection of more than £300,000 sterling annually.
color and of utility. To get out of mid- The rights and incomes of Scottish land-
dle Europe into either of these countries is lords have been greatly reduced in recent
a side excursion — a run into the bowers times, but there are many such instances
— which is exhilarating and refreshing. as that of Belfast. The great linen fac-
tories contain a bustling and somewhat the distress or the agitation prevalent in
bold number of operatives who, when the "Green Isle; " and the landlords of
there are burning questions agitated England may now and then have fancied
between South and North, manifest they saw the handwriting on the wall,
broken heads with the utmost freedom. when they heard of the ruin of Irish land-
Hundreds of thousands of spindles are lords, because of the leagues of the
here employed, even in times of great peasantry, and their persistent ostracism,
depression in trade. On the river there (which took its name from an ostracized
are docks and ship-building establish- person ami became "boycotting"), and
ments, out of which the great "White when they saw the energy of the Home
Star one of the noblest that ploughs
fleet, Rule party fighting its way against dis-
the ocean, has come. A few miles from tress and dislike, but guaranteed a hear-
Belfast is Clandeboye, the country-side ing by that love for fair play which is so
of the Earl of Dufferin, who has had so striking a characteristic in the English
full and prominent a political career in mind. After the decline of the Fenian
the last twenty years, and who has now, agitation England had resumed its in-
in times of trouble for the Indian Em- difference with regard to Ireland, until
pire, been called to the high position of the upspringing of the Laud Leaguers
Viceroy of that great realm. Lord Duf- and the creation of "Centres "all over
ferin is a consummate politician, and an Ireland, and the determined uprising of
able diplomat, who has been offered ex- the peasantry, in the wild regions where
cellent opportunities to study in Russia they had been content to live with as
and in the East those burning questions little comfort as the bony swine which
which are to be fought out on the plains and out of their cabins. When
trotted in
of Central Asia, and the settlement of Mr. Gladstone came into office, after the
which will decide the future of England resignation of Lord Beacousfield, and
and its Imperial domain. Northward the final retirement of the Conservative
from Belfast lead pleasant routes to leader from politics, he found that he
Port Rush and the Giant's Causeway, to had inherited a formidable list of Irish
ancient and decaying Dunluce Castle, difficulties, and that the sixty-five Home
and to a hundred other historic points Rulers, who had come into the new
along the doubly indented coast. House of Commons, were determined
From time to time the English people that these difficulties should have ample
appear to have forgotten that Ireland discussion, and settlement if possible.
exists, or if they allude to it at all, it is Lord Beaconsfield, at the close of his
in a tone of contemptuous indifference political career, issued a political mani-
or of reproach, because the ''Union" festo, a letter to the Viceroy of Ireland,
has not been attended with that harmony denouncing the Home Rulers in the
of sentiment political, religious, and strongest terms, and declaring the agra-
social, which ought to be expected of rian agitation in that country a danger
fellow-subjects of one sovereign. Hut which, in its ultimate results, would be
for the last few years all England lias scarcely less disastrous than pestilence
had its attention closely called to, and and famine. With the troubles caused
even centred upon, Ireland and Irish by the alarm of famine and the outcry
politics. The leading papers of Loudon raised against the demands for no rent
e\ cry day have columns filled concerning by the disciples of Mr. l'arnell. Mr.
Gladstone resolutely grappled, and did retire from its aggressive attitude ; but it
tlicbest that he or any one else could was found that troops could not prevent
have done in the presence of the exact- an indignant population from intimidat-
ing and jealous opinion of Eugland. To ing those who were unpopular in its
Mr. Parnell's strong character and un- midst. With 1881, when this agrarian
consciousness was due the rapid advance reign terror seemed at its height,
of
which he made as to a supreme position. Europe was offered the spectacle of lib-
His advice to the peasantry to hold the eral Mr. Forster moving in the House of
land and pay only such rent as they Commons the introduction of coercion
deemed fair, and the quickness with bills; and then came a great struggle in
which this advice was adopted, led to Parliament, first over these bills, and then
the reopening of the Irish land question, afterward over Mr. (Hailstone's long-
which we need not follow through its promised Land Meantime, although
Hill.
varied phases here. The attitude of the coercion bills checked outrage in the
Parliament to Ireland has been one of year of 1881, the Land League organ-
commiseration, mingled with the deepest ization grew in strength. Tenants re-
distrust. The noble gentlemen who have fused to pay rent, landlords hesitated
endeavored to regulate the affairs of the before the process of eviction which
"Emerald Isle" seem to place them- they had been so quick in old times to
selves in the position of admitting that employ, and by-and-by all Ireland re-
the possession of landed property in Ire- belled against the Coercion Act with a
land needed instant reform, but that it force which fairly startled England out
was inexpedient to put the reform in of its traditional inertia and indifference
operation. The period of outrages began with regard to Irish affairs.
just so soon as the Land League had de- The Land Act had become a law, and
cided that tenants should pay no more England thought Ireland should be satis-
l-
than the prairie" value, L'") percent, lied with the modifications which it
of the value of the letting of ordinary brought in regard to the control of

land. " when the basis of rating was fixed landed property. Many of the moderate
according to the low standard of agri- Home Killers had declared in favor of
cultural prices which ruled a generation this act, and Mr. Parnell himself is said
ago." to have hesitated before deciding against
The Land League meetings and the it. Meanwhile the reflex opinion of the
tremendous agitation which they roused agitation in America, and the sudden
throughout the greater part of Ireland blossoming of the dynamite policy.
soon brought about the prosecution for brought matters to a crisis. English
seditious conspiracy against .Air. Par- opinion revolted in presence of the ex-
ncll and other home-rule members, as aggerated rumors concerning the atro-
well as the officers of the Laud League. cious means which agitators in America
England rather hesitated before under- and Ireland were said to propose for
taking tin' statute prosecutions, realizing coercing British opinion. Just at this
that they would not stop the lawlessness junction Mr. Parnell appeared with his
in Ireland. Meantime the uprising in new doctrine, aimed directly at the Land
1880 reached its h.-i-ht . and a veritable Act. and intended to show that justice
army was sent to crush down public required the reduction of the total rent
opinion and compel the Land League to of Ireland from £17,000,000 sterling
annually to between £2,000,000 and existing rents was possible, and every-
£3,000,000. This England considered body said that all the tenants would be
an impossible standard of " fair rent," glad to make friendly regulations with
and English landlords holding land in their landlords, realizing that if their
Ireland and native land-owners were rents went into court they would be
enraged. Mr. Gladstone called this doc- raised rather than diminished. The
trine of Parnell the "Gospel of Public when it discov-
surprise of the Ministry
Plunder." Even the Catholic bishops ered how times had changed was very
were lukewarm in their appreciation great. The land agitation, which had
of it. been kept out of England and Ireland
The Land League was now bolder than by the "silvery streak," as our British
ever; but Mr.
presently Mr.
Parnell, cousins call the Channel, nearly a cen-
Sexton, Mr. Dillon, Mr. O'Kelly, and tury after it had been triumphant in
other prominent agitators, were arrested France, and for more than a generation
under the Coercion Act, and lodged in after it had been completed in an aristo-
Pill as "suspects." Riots in Dublin cratic country like Hungary, had at last
and Limerick, caused by these arrests, crossed the water and begun its work.
were promptly put down, and for the The Euglisb say that come by
it did not
time it seemed as if the implacable aver- the Channel, but went round via America
sion of the Land League to all compro- and crossed the Atlantic.
mising measures on the part of England The year 1882 opened with Mr. Par-
had resulted in the destruction of the nell still in jail, with the Protection Act
League itself. A proclamation was is- administered with resolution by Mr.
sued publicly suppressing the League, Forster, and with the effects of the Land
but at the same time the Land Commis- Act gradually becoming visible. There
sion was opened, and applications for was an invariable reduction of rent
fixing fair rent began to come in ; but in every day from one-fifth to one-third of
the southern provinces the "no-rent" the previous rentals. Yet the exacting
policy was adopted by thousands of tenantry held out in large numbers for
tenants. What the agitation really did no rent, kept away from the courts, and
secure was the practical reduction of announced their implacable hostility by
rents throughout Ireland. " In Ulster, outrages which wrung cries of horror
Minister, and Connaught," says the from both England and America. The
" Times" of 1881 "rents were generally
, now defunct Land League was working
reduced from twenty to thirty per cent., in the dark, but denied any connection
and in many cases much more. Tenan- with the perpetrators of the outrages.
cies on old estates where rents had been By-and-by Mr. Forster, who was tired
paid twenty, thirty, or even fifty years of hearing himself called opprobrious
were as freely handled as new tenancies names, resigned his position as Secretary
on properties purchased in the Landed for Ireland. The Protection Act was
Estates Court. The landlords were abandoned, the Land- Leaguers were re-
struck with dismay, and vehement pro- leased, and came back to the House of
tests were made on their behalf." It is Commons, where they began a tremen-
odd to notice that when the Land Bill dous onslaught on Mr. Forster, who found
was first introduced in Parliament, the himself in the ticklish position of a
Ministry thought that no reduction of private citizen defending his late course
654 El ROVE IN STOIIM AXD CALM.
in a public position. Mr. Gladstone cause of order by the Land Act. But
appeared with the statement that Mr. the Land League declared that the Eng-
Parnell seemed willing to help the cause lish Parliament bad failed to conciliate
of order, and England smiled at what it Ireland, demanded an enlargement of

called the Kilmainham treaty, or the the scope of the Land Act. the control
understanding between the Ministry and of local taxation by Nationalists, and,
the Land League party. Then came the in short, a local economy such as Ire-
appointment of Lord Spencer as Viceroy land has never enjoyed.

of Ireland, with the generous and high- The land agitation which had now
miuded Lord Cavendish as Chief Secre- gone ou for three or four years in stead-
tary ; and, just as the ollicial circles were ily increasing proportions in Ireland,
congratulating themselves upon the pa- began to have its influence in England.
cification of Irish feeling and the absence Lord Salisbury issued a cry of warning
of any need of coercion, the assassination in an article called "Disintegration,"
of Lord Frederick Cavendish, and the published in one of the reviews. He
under Secretary, Mr. Burke, in Phoenix also showed his foreknowledge and fore-
Park, within full sight of the vice-regal sight of what was coming by bringing
lodge, was announced. This extraordi- forward hisviews on the " housing of
nary assassination made a deep impres- the poor." At the same time Mr.
sion on English feeling, and the better Chamberlain had come into Parliament
classes in Ireland recoiled from any as- by a vigorous attack on the land-owning
sociation with such detestable crime. classes, on whom he threw the duty of
There has rarely been a greater out- removing all the duellings unfit for hab-
pouring of sympathy than was mani- itation, and replacing them by good,
fested when this second sou of the Duke substantial houses. Next came the doc-
of Devonshire was brought home to be trine of land nationalization, — the out-
buried at the noble country-seat of growth of the agitation of Mr. Henry
Chatsworlh, after his brief career as a George, in America and throughout;
liberal official desirous of conciliating 1883 English land-owners were as busy

the opinion of what is ironically called with questions directly affecting their
the "Sister Island." Now
came, with own interests as they had been two
swift feet, the " Crimes Bill," which all years before with those affecting only
parties, with the exception of Mr. Par- the Irish land-owner. The law weighed
nell and his disciples, supported. The heavily upon Ireland all through 1883.
police system in Ireland was reorganized ; The formation of the National League
the application of the law was made at the close of 1882 was understood as
more certain ; and although the people the old Land League under thin dis-
still worked in the dark, —a presiding guise, and it was observed that the
justice narrowly escaped the attack of speakers at the meetings of the National
an assassin ; a juror in an agrarian League were all chiefs of the Separatist
case was stabbed and left for dead, men party.
vmic beaten and mutilated in their The conspirators known as " The
cabins at night; horses and cattle were Invineibles," who had planned and
killed, and houses and farms were carried out the assassination in Phoenix
burned, — still it was thought that the Park, the murder of the man who had
peasantry would be won over to the informed against The Invineibles, and
EUROPE jy STORM AND CALM. 655
the conspiracies for the use of dynamite and Scotland. Innocent travellers
in Loudon, Birmingham, and Glasgow, coming from the continent were suli-
enraged the English, and the outcome of jected to all the rigors which alarmed
four busy years of parliamentary tinker- customs officials could invent. An Al-
ing seemed to have resulted only in the pine hat or an American accent was suf-
triumph of the peasant over the landlord, wanderer to careful
ficient to subject the
and au increased determination of the watching by the police; and such explo-
A LAND-LEAGUE MASS-MEETING.
Home Rule party to puisne its policy sions as occurred at Victoria station, at
regardless of difficulties and opposition. St. James square, Scotland yard, Lon-
The Separatists had received a severe don Bridge, and, finally, at Westminster
shock at the time of the conspiracy dis- and the Tower of London, so shocked
closures, but in 1884 recovered, and and enraged the public that it was un-
assailed the Executive in Dublin with all willing to hear of any conciliatory meas-
their force, and by means which were ures with regard to Ireland. But events
scarcely creditable to their frankness or in which the honor, and even the very ex-
sincerity. The dynamite party became istence, of Imperial Britain are connected
so aggressive in its bearing that its ex- have compelled a certain modification of
ploits created a veritable panic in England tone, even of sentiment, and the Heir-
i;>i; EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM.
Apparent to the throne finds it not incon- peared, green

bearing banners and
sistent with his dignity to hold court in other emblems, and loading
national
Dublin, and to make a long- journey precessions of men. women, and chil-
through the disaffected districts. drcn, who were to listen to the speakers
The Land League agitation, and the assembled at a cottage just rebuilt by
meetings and gatherings of the peasantry the Land-Leaguers after it had heeu
when tin's agitation was at its height, torn down to render practicable the
were some of the most curious features eviction of a tenant who refused to
of the revolution gradually being accom- pay rent. This was one of the most
'
:;wp.:
frit \ wlwfflH 1
IHHhL
U'HHK A FAM1UAH IRISH
SCENE.
plished in the ••
Emerald Isle." I made daring things which had been done in
an excursion into Ireland shortly before Ireland. The defiance of the law was
tin' suppression of the organization ami patent, and I was not a little surprised
i lie arrest of its principal members. to find the parish priest at tin head of
From old Galway for miles along the the movement. Arriving on a bleak
road which I took on my way to a hill overlooking Lough Corrib, where the
Land-League mass-meeting, the fields meeting was to was met by
lie held, I
had been lying fallow for many vears ; the priest, who introduced me
to a. num-
hundreds of cabins were deserted and ber of country squires, and to certain
unroofed, and dozens of others were pale-faced agitators who had conic up
fitter for the habitations of swine than expressly from the Irish cities to help on
for human beings. At every cross-road the movement.
on this rainy Sunday horsemen ap- A few hundred yards from this cottage
EUROPE IN STORM ANT) CALM. r
fi. >7
which was the visible expression of the waters of Lough Corrib if he was rude
Land League's resistance to the law, to the stranger.
three or four hundred soldiers of the The scene was wild ; the fierce faces
" Constabulary," as it is called in Ire- of the peasantry, — faces thin with
hind, were drawn up in military array, want, and flushed with an angry pleasure
and a smart young officer, approaching as they heard the government assailed.
the priest, touched his hat courteously — as they heard stories of tyranny, and
and announced that he should detail two incentives to rebellion catalogued and
of his men to protect the government recited, were wilder still. This was the
reporter. " Bring him on," said the beginning of revolution likely to go far,
priest, " liut don't let the boys get at anildo much damage, if not cheeked by
him. would not answer for him this
I artful legislation. Even the gentlemanly
clay." So presently the government and courteous priest forgot his mildness
stenographer, on whose report was to when he addressed the people.
be based any prosecutions which might The greatest demands of Mr. Parnell
ensue for treasonable language, was and his followers were thought mild and
brought up under guard and seated at the insufficient by this throng of laborers
hustings. Then arose a yell of execration who had never until recent years dreamed
from the crowd, which now numbered that they could rebel against the land-
two or three thousand people, and which lord. Now this thought was uppermost
was soon to lie reinforced by long in their minds: How can we dispense
lines of peasantry whom we could see with the landlord altogether? How can
miles away, marching around the end of we become ourselves possessors of the
the lake. At the head of one of these soil? I thought that in the frequent
processions fluttered an American flag, appeals of the priest to the people to
borne by a stalwart farmer. Some of remain within the letter of the law there
the peasants carried wooden swords and was a mild satiric flavor. His eve
pikes, artistically stained with red. sup- twinkled when he had finished his ad-
posed to imitate the Saxon gore which was dress and the cries and curses which
;
some day to be spilled. Numbers of the rose from his hearers when the name of
patriots had imbibed spirituous fluids to any unpopular landed proprietor or
counteract the omnipresent moisture ; and official was mentioned appeared to give
now and then an ardent defender of the the good man positive pleasure.
Irish cause questioned my presence and As I drove home on the jaunting-car
my identity, with the addition of epithets that night, under the flitting moonlight,
not altogether agreeable. One inflamma- and over the roads wet and soggy with
ble gentleman, who had recently returned the protracted rain, I came from time
from the United States, informed me. lo time upon sentinels posted at cross-
while I on the hustings some

was roads, and now and then dark figures
twenty feet from the ground, that rose up cautiously from behind the walls
I might be a Saxon reporter, and that if or hedges, and disappeared, as if satis-
it were found to be so he would have me fied that the passer-by was a neutral,
handed down. The parish priest, how- and was not to be molested. 1 confess
ever, took this gentleman to task for that had I been a land-owner of the
having begun his festivities too early in neighborhood I should not have ridden
the day, and threatened him with the home alone and unarmed that night.
658 EUUOl'E IN STORM A.\l> CALM.
CHAPTER SEVENTY-FIVE.
Dublin ami its Chief Features. — The Irish Climate. — Trinity College. —The Environs of the Irish
Capital. — The Great Western Gateways, — Queenstown and Liverpool.
ri'HIE Irish are justly proud of their the climate is trying, variable, and some-
J- capital, which is in no wise inferior what exhausting.
in the beauty of its streets and the ele- The long streets are shrouded in
gance of its shops to London or other fog, and the barren slums, with their
large towns in England. There are a picturesque and motley population of
few picturesque bits in the city proper infirm old men and women (and where
on the banks of the River Liffey, which are there such old men and old women
divides the town into two nearly equal as in Ireland ?) are pitiable enough. The
parts, — eastward into the noble bay on beggars are numerous and aggressive.
one side, on which is the famous hill of They bless and curse with equal volubil-
llowth; and on the other, Killiney hill. ity. The gift of sixpence is sufficient to
Around the great Custom-House always draw down blessings for a twelvemonth
cluster flocks of vessels, and one would upon the giver's head. The soldier, red-
scarcely fancy, while looking at the com- jacketed, smartly groomed and attired, is
mercial head-quarters of Ireland, that the seen on every coiner. England keeps a
country is cursed with poverty, and that formidable garrison, nearly thirty thou-
its manufactures as well as its agriculture sand strong, in Ireland, and will not
are in an almost prostrate condition. withdraw it, even in the face of most
June is the time to visit Dublin — June, pressing needs outside, until the with-
with its bright sunshine, interspersed drawal is imperative. The Castle, as it
with sudden showers (if rains in Ireland is where the lord-lieutei:ant or

called,
every day), and with its splendor of the viceroy, as he is somewhat bombas-
verdure and blossom on the neighboring tically denominated, holds his court and
mountains. In the midsummer season has his official residence, is not quite so
it is broad daylight until almost ten imposing as the Castle of Edinburgh, but
o'clock in this far northward city, and is said to have been in former times a
daylight comes again alter but three, or, noteworthy structure.
at and one-half, hours of
most, three One chief room is the vice-regal
darkness. Dublin some years
Visiting chapel, where the lord lieutenant and
ago, on the occasion of an international his family attend divine service. This
festival, and being nightly called to chapel has a curious feature in the
attend some banquet or prolonged social shape of sculptured heads on the win-
festivity, I had, in a period of three dows and doors, like those around the
weeks, no night at I went all, for when Place Yendome in Paris. The vice-
to my engagement was still light it regal apartments contain an ornamental

enough to read a newspaper in the hall, with a throne richly embroidered
streets, and when I went home to rest it with gold, where, on the rare occasions
hail long been bright daylight. In winter when royalty condescends to visit the
sister island, levees and crushes are in the grand hall of the Refectory, with
held. The ball-room, known as St. the officials of the college in their robes,
Patrick's Chapel, the Council Chamber, and with the singularly pleasing arrange-
and the magnificently furnished drawing- ment of toasts and musical responses,
room, are the only very interesting is one of the most novel features of
things. There are two kinds of society European social life. The uproarious
in Dublin, which for the stranger may demonstrations of the students of Trinity
be well enough classified as the loyal occasionally disturb the decorum of
and the national. Around the lord Dublin, the Celtic student apparently
lieutenant is a formidable group of the considering it his privilege in Ireland, as
resident Protestant English and Protes- in France, to make himself disagreeable
tant Irish, of the more important land- to the government and to his neighbors
owners of both nationalities, the official upon the most trivial provocation.
world, the magistrates, and placemen of The Bank of Ireland is the Old Par-
all kinds. The Nationalists are not so liament House, in which, I suppose, Mr.
strong, but profess to have a more brill- Parnell and his followers would like to
iant social organization. Royalty, how- install their Home Rule Parliament by-
ever, draws them strangely near together, and-by. The old House of Commons is
as it has done in the recent visit of the now the cash office of the bank, and the
Prince of Wales. The lower classes, House of Lords is still left as it was in
turbulent and irreconcilable, watch with the times when Ireland had a Parlia-
jealous eye the conduct of their city offi- ment, save that the site of the throne is
cials, and if any one from the Lord occupied by a statue of George III.
Mayor of Dublin down dares to curry The dilapidated tapestries on the wall
favor with English loyalty or English represent King William crossing the
opinion he is signalled for vexations Boyne, and the Siege of Derry. Under
innumerable. the pavement of the cathedral of St.
Of the exterior features of Dublin Patrick lie the mortal remains of
none is more striking than Trinity Col- Dean Swift and Esthei Johnson, who
lege, which stands in College Green, was the " Stella" of his poetry. Swift
Bank of Ireland.
directly opposite the old was once dean of this cathedral, which
This college, which was founded under was restored about twenty-five years
a bull obtained from Pope John XXII., ago by a celebrated Dublin brewer,
was closed in the time of Henry VIII., who expended more than £100,000
but was opened again in the reign of upon it. The Nelson Monument, raised
Elizabeth, who made it a corporation in by the Irish admirers of the hero of
the name of the " College of the Holy Trafalgar, and the Wellington Testimo-
and Indissoluble Trinity." Within and nial, erected by Wellington's townsmen,
without it is rich with works of art of are objects of interest. The Military
highly respectable character. Portraits Hospital, the Carlisle bridge, the Na-
of Dean Swift, Bishop Berkeley, Arch- tional Gallery of Ireland, and the Royal
bishop King. Lord Oriel, Professor Bald- Hibernian Academy, are the chief public
win, Grattan, and Frederick, Prince of buildings.
Wales, ornament the halls. In front of The admirer of the great O'Connell
the college are statues of Oliver Gold- may renew his souvenirs of that tre-
smith and of William III. The dinner mendous orator by a visit to Conciliation
6K0 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
Hall, where O'Connell achieved some of the Headland of Bray, the Devil's Glen,
liis greatest triumphs. The gilded harp the Seven Churches, and the Vale of
and the shamrock of Ireland are still Avoca have so often been celebrated in
preserved on the ceiling of this hall, hut both prose and verse that there is little
a corn-merchant now occupies the prem- new to say about them here. The stran-
ises. Glasnevin Cemetery is the tomb
In ger who abides for some time within the
of O'Connell, a granite round tower one gates of Dublin will be sure to hear a
hundred and sixty feet high : and there, lair maiden singing, with the deli-
Irish
too, reposes the illustrious Curran. <>u cate lisp and the clearness of enunciation
Stephens Green, a pretty square with which characterize the English spoken
clusters of trees and shrulis, surrounded in the Irish capital, Moore's pretty ballad
on :dl sides with the handsomest man- about the Avoca, which begins thus :
—
sions in the town, is the Royal College
" There is not in the wide world a valley so
of Surgeons, with a museum, :i statue
sweet
of George II.. and an industrial
whose bosom the bright waters
As the vale in
museum of very creditable character.
meet.
Stephens Green is the scene of many Oh! the last rays of feeling and life must
of the Nationalists' manifestations, but depart
Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from
it is in Phoenix Park that the population
This
my heart."
of Dublin loves best to manifest.
park, covering an area of more than
At all concerts and musical festivals
seventeen thousand acres, is very beau-
given at Dublin the national poetry is
ful, and is often a scene of grand mili-
brought out in strong relief, and always
tary England desires to
reviews when
awakens a storm of enthusiasm. The
show her strength to her Irish neigh-
south of Ireland is a pretty country,
bors. The immediate vicinity of Dublin
rich in legend and romance, and in
is of rare and exquisite beauty. Kings-
never
town harbor — the port of Dublin — is
varied scenery, which,
approaches the grand and bold, is emi-
while it
pretty ; and the fashionable resort of Dal-

nently satisfactory and sometimes be-
key. where the old Dublin merchants of
witching. The old seat of Waterford,
the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries
and the town with its church about
preferred having their goods landed rather
which Father Prout wrote, —
than allow their ships to venture into the
bay and attempt the passage of the " The bells of Sha ndon,
Lil'fey, is a pretty suburb. Powers- That sound
i nai- souuu ^rand on
so grand
court, otic few Irish estates
of the The pleasant waters of the River Lee; " —
whose landlord was always popular with
his tenants, is an admirable specimen of the cove of Cork, or Queenstown, with
an Irish country residence. The great its majestic harbor. — ample enough to
baronial mansion, in the midst of delight- contain all the navies of the world,
ful scenery, contains a vast parlor, where Blarney, Youghal and the Black Water,
George IV. was entertained when he vis- Killarney and the lakes, the Gap of Dun-
ited Ireland in 1821 and the Glen, ; loo and the Black Valley, Loch Lean, In-
through which the Dargle flows, is one nisf alien, Muckross Abbey and the Peaks,
of the most romantic in Ireland. The Bandon, Glengariff, and Bantry, all —
charms of the Wieklow mountains, of these embrace a curious mixture of wild-
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. (5(51
3
H
m
m
a
no
O
:
—
ness and of gentle beauty. The great London, — and that it brings in nearly
cliffs, the lofty blue crags, and the high- two and a half of cotton bales
million
lands, which break into the vast expanse from America and from India every year
of the Atlantic, are beautiful under the to be worked up in the great factories
summer sun, but in the mists and winds in twenty cities not far away. The
of winter are forbidding and desolate. stately St. George's Hall, the palatial
Queenstown is one of the great gate- business structures on Water street, the
ways out <>(' Europe to America, and the statues of tin Prince Consort and
1
Queen
harbor is always alive with the enormous Victoria, the Wellington Monument, the
steamers crawling across the greenish- Foreign Exchange, the Mausoleum of
blue waves, with the sprightly tugs and Huskisson, the huge docks of Lairds,
tenders transporting passengers to and covering five hundred acres on the
from the ocean arks, and with men-of- Birkenhead side of the Mersey, — are
war, which droit in casually, as if to say the chief features of Liverpool.
to Ireland, " lie tranquil." The city has its slums, into which one
There is constant commercial inter- is obliged to stray with care if he wishes
course between Dublin and Liverpool, to come out alive. There is within five
the great gateway of Great
western minutes' walk of the principal com-
Britain, — Liverpool
which has grown mercial avenues a labyrinth of streets
rich and prosperous out of the American and alley-ways containing more misery
trade, and, for that matter, out of the trade and filth and abject wretchedness than
of every country under the sun. Here the can be found in any other European
finest dorks in the world would be vastly city. The Liverpool Irish are justly de-
imposing one could have an atmosphere

if nominated the most degraded people in
for the space of a single day in which the kingdom, and around them and their
to visit them. Liverpool was a little scarcely less wretched and vicious
hamlet three hundred years ago; to-day English fellows there is a fringe of
its population is a little more than half cosmopolitan and want, an inter-
vice
a million, and it is said there are always national tangle of ignorance and poverty,
at least thirty thousand sailors prome- a population which scarcely seems to
nading its vast quays. It is a proud city, have souls, and which veritably seems
proud of its wealth, proud even of its beyond the reach of redemption. One-
climate, which it fiercely defends as in third of the trade of Liverpool is with
nowise objectionable; proud of its great America. The Liverpool merchant is
River Mersey, with its stone banks, of the a cultivated man, with no prejudices;
tleets of ships and steamers which come the breadth of the broad seas in his
in and go out in hundreds daily; proud character ; he is generous, quick, and
of the fact that it lias at least two-thirds energetic, and enjoys his fortune as in-
of the whole shipping of Great Britain telligently and modestly as any landed
and one-tenth of her foreign trade, — proprietor.
half as much trade as the great port of
CHAPTER SEVENTY-SIX.
Lord Beaconsfield. —Mr. Gladstone. — Two Careers Entirely Different in Character, Purpose, and Result.
— Personal Description of the two Great Premiers. — Imperial Policy. — The Eastern Question in
1875. — Mr. Gladstone's Attitude. — The Slavs of the South. — Servia, Herzegovina, Bosnia,
and Montenegro*
am overwhelmed," were the words of tion. He said that the premier's policy
I the dying Beaconsfield, as he closed of Empire and Liberty " had simply
'•
his long and agitated career, twelve meant denying to others the rights that
months after he had surrendered his England claimed for herself. He pointed
premiership, in tiie tranquil retreat of to the disasters in Afghanistan ; to the
Hughenden; and it then seemed as if in fact that India " had not advanced, but
his words there was all the sadness of a was thrown back in government, sub-
prophetic confession. The Imperial policy jected to heavy and unjust charges, sub-
which he had inaugurated with such jected to what might also be termed, in
dazzling audacity, and conducted with comparison with the government of for-
such dexterous, although somewhat sinis- mer years, a singular oppression at home ;
ter, had received so many severe

skill, the law broken, and the rights of Parlia-
checks, had brought upon the realm of ment invaded." It was in vain that
Britain so many disasters, that the Eng- Beaconsfield, who had so lately been the
lish people were right in questioning adored of the London populace, the dar-
whether it were wise that it should he ling of the eyes of the Conservative
prosecuted to its logical conclusions. dowagers, ami the hero as much in White-
An English premier takes his defeat as chapel as in IJelgravia and Mayfair. —
he takes his accession to office, with pro- in both of which widely separated sections
found philosophy ; for heknows that the he was considered as a new champion of
people quickly return upon any judgment England, who was to revive the ancient
which they have found erroneous, or which prestige of the island kingdom, and
they think erroneous, and that the lease reduce to a sense of their relative un-
of power is not very permanent. Just importance the ambitions powers of the
as in autumn of 1873 the people
the North, as he was popularly supposed by
showed that they were becoming nervous his English admirers to have done at the
with regard to the reforming zeal of Berlin Congress, — it was in vain that he
the and that they wished to
ministry, struck back against his resolute adver-
give it a check, so, in 1880, after Mr. sary, that he referred to the attempts made
Gladstone's tremendous Midlothian cam- to sever the constitutional tie betwec i
paign, the people began to waver in England and issued his fa-
anil Ireland,
their devotion to the brilliant policy mous proclamation calling on " all men
which had seduced them by its promise of light and leading" to resist this de-
of glory and of fortune. Mr. Gladstone structive doctrine. It was in vain that
was a severe and an uncompromising he accused the Liberal party of attempt-
critic of Lord Beacousfield's administra- ing, aud failing, to enfeeble the English
(;i!4 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
colonies by their policy of decomposition ;

tion of independent States. But the
in vain that lie cried oul that he had policy of intrigue and of petty vexations,
long previously recognized in the dis- the policy of attempting to check the
integration <>f the United Kingdom a Russian bear by scattering bitsof orange-
mode which would not only accomplish peel in his path, had been adopted in-
but precipitate that purpose ; in vain that stead of the bold and straightforward
he persisted in his statement that peace plan which England might have adopted ;
rested Oil the presence, not to say the and were Lord lieaeonslicld alive to-day
ascendency of England in the councils of to sec the natural outcome of his policy,
Europe. The impression grew that the so far as it was carried forward, he
Conservative Ministry, which had been mighl again say, as he said with his
in power from 1874, had not only caused latest breath, " I am overwhelmed."
a veritable ami lamentable interregnum Mr. Benjamin Disraeli, who rose to
in the great progress of reform at home, be Lord Beaconsfield, and Mr. William
but had weakened the Empire by need- Ewart (lladstone, who might long ago
less wars abroad, and that its clandes- have been seated in the House of Lords
tine acquisition of the Island of Cyprus if he would have listened to proposals

had brought upon the gravest criti- il for his elevation, have so lone- been
cisnis. Although the proudest moment familiar and imposing figures on the
of Beacousfield's life was the moment of stage of English politics, and in inter-
Ins entrance into the House of Lords, on national politics generally, that little
hi-- return from the Berlin Congress, still new can be them here.
said of Both
not even the fallen Premier himself could these distinguished men had attained in
conscientiously' assert that he had by his London and in Europe that eminence
support of this treaty gained anything which attaches to a long continuance of
for his famous Imperial policy. He power, to frequent returns to its exer-
COllld not have believed that the barrier cise, and to indisputable authority ami
of the Balkans could permanently sepa- skill in the management
of men. Each
rale the two halves of the new Bulgarian represented and peculiar school
a special
nation : that they could remain • similar of English thought; yet each has always
ii! race, in religion, in memories, the had throughout his career a marked in-
one free, the other still enslaved ;
'
nor dividuality which seemed to distinguish
that Russia would be permanently him from the mass of Englishmen. Lord
checked in her advance on Constauti- Beaconsfield was perhaps and particu- —
nople by the measures which a. few larlv from 187-1 to his downfall more —
diplomats seated round a table covered strictly popular than Mr Gladstone. It.
with green cloth chose to imagine as is certain, however, that he stood upon
obstacles to that progress from north to a lower level, and that nearly every one
south which all history tells us is neces- who professed for him such passionate
sarv and vital, and which is as resistless admiration knell) that he stood upon a
as an inundation. lower level; but there was a glamour
Mr. Gladstone had always pointed out. about, him and all his works, an accent
that the great barrier to a Russian ad- of sincerity in his speeches, even when
vanee on Constantinople was the crea- they supported the shiftiest of pretexts
or the must fallacious of positions, which
i O'Connor's Life of Lord Beaconsfield. lulled to rest, any outcropping suspi-
EUROPE /.V STOHM AM) CALM. i;i;:>
cions. Heaconsfield had worked himself tormentors, and in terrible tones had
up from a very humble position to that informed them that the lime would come
which he had coveted in his youth, and when they would hear him. Mr. Glad-
which lie had boldly asserted he would Stone had made his Parliamentary dibut
get. He had conquered prejudice, had without melodramatic effect, at once
almost conquered fate. lie had that commanding the respect and attention
profound belief in himself which carries of all his fellow-members. His very
men over the most difficult obstacles, and first speeches in Parliament were in con-
finally deludes them into the conviction nection with the liberation of slaves,
that they are all-powerful before it al-
lows them to be tripped up and to be

beaten on the scene of action.
Mr. Gladstone had not been obliged
to toil up from the lowest place, but had
stepped with easy grace at an early age
into the career for which he had such
consummate fitness. He had inherited
a handsome fortune, which allowed him
to devote his entire energies to the
public service had a wonderful talent
;
for finance, a thorough business apti-

tude, an abiding classical education,
a fervent religious spirit, and a sen-
sitive conscience, — too sensitive per-
haps for modern English politics, with
its expedients, its trickeries, its anxi-
eties, and its dangers. One of his
biographers has said of him that " he

unites cotton with culture, Manchester
with Oxford, the deep classical joy over
the Italian resurrection and Greek inde-
LORD BEACONSFIELD.
pendence with the deep English interest From Photograph by London Stereoscopic Co.
in amount of duty on Zante raisins

the
and Italian rags." He was already a and forty years afterward he was vigor-
prominent politician when the first Reform ous and earnest as when a youth in
Bill was brought forward, in 1832, and demanding the freedom from oppression
fifty years afterward his voice was heard of the Christians in the East. Mr.
more powerfully than that of any other Disraeli seems to have considered litera-
in the English Parliament in advocating ture as one of the intellectual dissipa-
the completion of the reform which, tions of his 3'outh. In it he exhaled
while its progress has been so slow, the fiery enthusiasms of his soul, em-
has been so very thorough. Lord Bea- bodied in correct and facile prose the
when he wished to
consfield, in his youth, dreams of the career which was before
make his maiden speech in the House him, foreshadowed many of his attempts
of Commons, had been thoroughly and aims, betrayed many of the weak-
laughed :'t, hut had turned upon his nesses and follies of his nature, and
indicated as clearly as could have been party into it, he will open his mouth and
indicated by an ethnologist all the prej- speak the truth. No sneer of foreign
udices, fancies and hatreds entailed cabinets, or threat of enemies, or danger
upon him by his race, in his books of mobs at home, will prevent him from
may be found the Semitic contempt for deserting the Soudan, and from saying
Christian civilization, the Jewish eager- the full truth about South Africa. If
ness to coutrol and lead the Christian; he felt that England, in order to main-
and, in all matters of Eastern policy, the tain her position as a first-class power,
Jewish unwillingness to aid the Chris- were fated to carry out, at all risks and
tian to resume the place actually his, hazards, an Imperial policy, which would
but usurped by the barbarian. also be a policy of greed and of plunder,
Mr. Gladstone, while he had not had and interference with other people's
so glittering a literary distinction as his lights, lie would not sanction that policy
great antagonist in his youth, has made for any consideration whatsoever.
literature in its higher form the delight Lord Beaconslield might have been
of his middle life and his declining laid in Westminster Abbey had it not
years. His mildest literary recreation is been for the strict instructions in his
the enthusiastic study of Homer and the will that he was to be buried in Hughen-
Homeric age. He is one of the few den, beside the wife whom he so tenderly
Englishmen who thoroughly comprehend loved, and who had done so much for
the Greek mind, ancient and modern. the upbuilding of his career. He some-
Hi' has never allowed his position as Eng- times said, with profound emotion, that
lish statesman to interfere with the care- to his wife he owed everything. Doubt-
ful, non-prejudiced study of continental less there were moments in his existence
polities from stand-points not entirely when he would have given up the
English. Reformer and agitator by struggle, and relapsed into deep indif-
instinct, he is moderate in language, ference, had if not been for her unfailing
and his consideration for his opponents support and counsel. Mr. Gladstone
is proverbial. His patience in the pres- was the first to propose that the deceased
ence of great difficulties is unlimited ; Premier should have the honors of a
his disregard of public clamor when he public Westminster Abbey;
funeral in
thinks it ill-founded may be carried but it was not toThe Great Com-be.
very far ; he is not the man to resign in moner, the Grand Old Man, as he is
a passi nor until he feels that the lovingly called by his admirers and
whole majority of his party, to the last scornfully spoken of by his enemies,
man, has given up the situation. He is the people's William, the ardent supporter
content with the progress of each day ;
of Liberalism in aristocratic ami con-
he does not threaten or prophesy, — he servative England, will undoubtedly be
works; he is ready for crises, because laid beneath the stones of the ancient
he always foresees them he knows the ; Abbey, to rest in the noble company
value of a penny, and never fails to in- near whose shrines he has spent so many
sist upon it : but lie does not hesitate long years of activity in the Parliament
to ask enormous sums when the honor House. Westminster, the epitome and
and dignity of England are threatened. crowning glory of England, must act
If he thinks a war unjust, even though now and then as an inspiration to public
he may have been pushed by his own men as they pass to and fro beneath its
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. <>r>7
GLADSTONE.
From Photograph by Elliott & Fry, London.
shadows for to be placed there is higher

; Canning, Grattan, and Wilberforce is
honor than to be put in the House of an appropriate resting-place for Glad-
Lords during lifetime ; and for that stone
matter the Abbey is likely to be the chief It is related of John Bright that,
of London's monuments many centuries being in the lobby of Parliament one
after the House of Lords has been but a day, he was approached by a ladv of
tradition. The pavement which shrouds his acquaintance, who had brought her
Chatham. Pitt, Fox, Castlereagh, two little hoys to see the political celeb-
<i<W EUROPE I\ STORM AND CALM.
rities, and who remarked that (Had- to the poet- laureate and to the favorite
stone was not present, and that she did actor. Gladstone's lustrous eyes, as
not regret it as she had but small ad- piercing and magnetic as they were when
miration for him, repeating numerous he was were unusually brilliant on
thirty,
reasons as to why she ilid not like his that occasion and, as he sat in' his corn-
;
public record. " Madam," said the fortable box, surrounded by his family,
great orator, assuming his most, iifipos- lie presented the finished typeof a culti-
ing mien, "when yon have an oppor- vated, accomplished, and successful Eng-
tunity to see Mr. Gladstone here, bring lish gentleman, than which no aristo-
your two boys with you, and when cratic family could furnish a liner. He
you have been told which is Mr. Glad- was the sublimated man of the people,
stone, point him out to these children, the best outcome of the sturdy strength
and say to them, ' There is the greatest of England
Englishman of all England,' and you All politicians have something of the
will say the truth.'" comedian in their composition. They
Both licaconslicld and Gladstone have know how to make their entries and their
always been fond of promenades in Lon- sorties with skill; and Lord licaconslicld
don town, so that they are well known excelled in this theatrical quality. His
to the citizens. most
Gladstone is the curl became historic. A pet phrase,
unceremonious of mortals, and when he delivered with a peculiar gesture, made
lived in la rley street, some years ago,
I its impression and went into history. A
used to walk, i:i all weathers, down to consummate dandy in his youth, he had
Parliament House, wrapped up in his something of dandyism in his old aoe.
hie, high, rough overcoat, and with his A frock-coat may have its eloquence as
thick leather leggings, looking something much as a spoken word. The indiscreet
like a country squire who had just arrived gaudiness of the Hebrew was left aside
at Elision station. Yet, despite the affec- after he reached maturer years, to reap-
taliou of rusticity, the love for felling pear only now and then in one of his
trees, or long walks and rides in the speeches, written under strong excite-
country, and his simplicity of dress and ment. In 1878 Mr. Lacey, the able
demeanor, he knows how, when it is author of the new " Diary of Two Par-
proper, to maintain the utmost elegance liaments," wrote thus about Lord Bea-
and dignity of manner. In these latter consfield :
—
years of his premiership, when becomes
to the evening of a great speech, there Strangers may now occasionally meet in tho
are evidences of careful attention to his neighborl I of Parliament street a. notable
dress. He has a fresh coat, and a flower fl S ure " 1;lki "'s' its way through the throng.
Tlley n "'" '"'"' fn,il and w, '
"'-v the ' M,li -V
in the button-hole, or is in irreproachable
;
seems, how bent the shoulders, how sunken

evening costume. Seen anywhere, ami , . .,
how leaden-hued the ,.lineaments;
,
,, , ,
the cheeks,
under any circumstances, he would strike but th ,. v a]s0 ,„„,, the dauntless .pint whirl,
Hi- observer as a remarkable man. I Mill a jaunty carriage, and makes be-
affects
like best to think of him as I saw him lieve that progress is slowly made only because
one evening there " no hurry. They further observe with

at the play, on the first
admiration the careful newness of the acces-
representation of Tennyson's ••Cup."
when
series of the figure, — the shapely coat of the
a brilliant
brilliant audience had gathered , ig htest materia l, the negligent but elegant
in the Lyceum theatre to do honor both neckcloth, the pearl-gray gloves, guiltless if
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 6fi9
wrinkle, and the gloss; hat. But these things culminated in an insurrection in Herze-
are, however, only for commonplace occa- govina. This revolt of the peasantry
sions. On the clay which marks a crowning
against their Mahometan landlords in
stage in his memorable career lie puts on an
coat, his second-best hat, and the dingy-
the rocky and picturesque provinces
old
brown trousers of long ago. which had been under the Turkish do-
He walked into Palace yard as if lie minion for more than four hundred years
were immensely surprised to rind it packed, was at once recognized by careful stu-
anil went into the House of Lords without
dents of European affairs as the opening
looking up, and with an air of being absorbed
of the Eastern question, with all its
entirely in his forthcoming speech, although
lie must have known that, instead of the perils, its penalties, and its possibilities.
empty benches usually seen, the chamber was ( >f this insurrection in Herzegovina I
thronged from end to end, that the privy- saw much, and to all who looked on
councillors were in their places before the at the desultory fighting against tiie
throne, ami that the hues of a flower garden
Turks in those autumn days of 187") it
were blended with the soft colors of a rain-
bow, which the beauty and rank of the Empire
was evident that a great movement for
formed, and through which, after the storm the independence and consolidation of
of the Berlin Congress, the sun shone down on the Slavs, who had so long been sepa-
the Prime Minister. rated and crushed, had begun. Russia
was moving mysteriously to promote this
Lord Beaconsfield, when he returned outbreak against the Turk, but the Turk
from Berlin in company with Lord Salis- was determined to resist with all his
bury, and was on his way from the rail- power the inroad upon the provinces
way station to the little blaek house in which he had not known how to develop
Downing street, where the prime minis- or to conciliate.
ters have always resided, was cheered Bosnia and Herzegovina, lying on
to the echo by the waiting thousands ; the confines of Austria, and possessing
and yet the outcome of his visit was a population speaking the same Slavic
nothing more than the return to slavery tongue spoken by so many millions of
of a million Christians, —a million Austrian subjects, were somewhat more
wrested away from the other millions of accessible to the influences of the outer
liberated ones, —
who, if the right pol- world than provinces like Bulgaria and
icy had been adopted by England, might Roumelia. The insurrectionists in Her-
have been made England's firm allies. zegovina and in Bosnia were amply
Lord Beaconsfield's triumph was, as has aided by warriors from the nnconquered
been truly said by one of his biogra- " Black mountain," — the Montenegrins,
phers, " a triumph not of England, not of so long the guardians of Freedom on
an English policy, not of an English- the frontiers of Europe. The Egyptian
man it was but the triumph of Judea, a
: and Asiatic troops combating against
Jewish policy, a Jew." these wild men, born among the stones
Five years before the overwhelming and accustomed from their earliest
of Beaeousfield and his policy Glad- infancy to hardships, had but little
stone had aroused all liberal England chance of success. Wherever they
to a keen interest in the great events could inflict atrocious cruelties they
which were begiuning in south-eastern did so. The Austrian frontier was
Europe. There the Turkish oppression lined for miles with camps of the
had finally become intolerable, and refugees from the Turkish vengeance.
—
070 F.I ROPE IX STORM AXf> CALM.
On the river Save, which forms the covered with dense forests, was unoccu-
line of demarkation between Bosnia pied by that august race, probably on
and Austria, I saw. while making a account of the difficulty of tracing the
journey from Belgrade, in Servia, to slrategetical routes uniting these and
Sissek, dozens of mutilated bodies of the consolidated provinces with the iso-
men and women floating down the lated stations of Pannonia and the colo-
stream. These were the persons who nies of the Asiatic shore. In the first
had been murdered by the Bashi- half of the seventh century the Avars,
Bazouks. At Raglisa, in October, profiting by the departure of the legions
1875, the camps of refugees must have of the Emperor Heraclius, rallied to fight
contained many thousands of people to the Persians, invaded the province, de-
whom the Austrian government was vastated and occupied it in part. It
it,
compelled to serve daily pensions, un- was about numerous .Slavic

that time that
less it wished to see these people die of tribes, who had come from beyond the
starvation upon its hands. In rich and Carpathians, established themselves, by
fertile Bosnia, with its towns teeming consent of the Emperor, in the country,
with an active, industrious population, after they had expelled the Avars. The
the insurrection was at first quite Servians, properly so called, occupied
successful ; but there the Turks were Upper Moesia, Sirmia, and Rascia. The
very prompt and soon brought it under Chrobates, or Croates, already held all
subjection. It was therefore to the that country between [stria and Cettina,
fastnesses and strongholds on the — to-day Croatia and a partof Dalmatia.
Herzegovinan frontier, hard by the The Zachlum, originally from Chelm, on
Dalmatian coast, that the leaders and the borders of the Vistula, and the Na-
their faithful followers retreated and rentines, — the old enemies of Venice,
reorganized the guerilla warfare which who gave their name to the river Na-
proved so efficient in bringing about rcnta, or who, perhaps, took their name
the greater contests soon to follow. from it, populated the land of Herze-
With sympathetic populations on the govina. Another tribe came after the
Austrian side of the frontier the in- first, established itself inwhat is now
surgents were not likely to lack for Montenegro, and its people were for a
supplies, and so they kept lip their re- long time called Dioclates, from the
sistance, waiting impatiently for the ancient name of the Black mountain.
standard of revolt to be raised in Bosnia was soon invaded by these mi-
Servia, and in all the rich
Bulgaria, new Slavic State
grating tribes, and the
countries of Turkey in Europe. was formed. United for a short time
Bosnia, Herzegovina, and Montene- under Douehan, these various States
gro were a part of the old country of the were soon separated after the tall of the
Dalmatians, which was united to the Servian empire, and each once enjoyed a
Roman Empire under Tiberius, and com- separated existence, — Bosnia under its
above-mentioned coun-
prised, besides the kings, Herzegovina under its dukes,
tries, a part of present Dalmatia, of Montenegro under its vladikas, up to
Upper Slavonia, and of Servia. The the time of the Ottoman conquest. Ser-
Romans appear to have colonized only a via fell in 1457, Bosnia in 1463, Her-
part of the province. All that portion zegovina in 1467, before the invading
situated in the centre and on the east, Turk; but Montenegro, sheltered by her
EUROPE fX STORM AND CALM. l!71
mountain ramparts, never surrendered dicated in 119,"), and became a monk,

at all. Bosnia and Herzegovina together under the name of Stephen. lie had
have about twice the area of Belgium. two sons; Stephen-the-First-Crowned,
Montenegro is a little labyrinth of rocks, so called because he was the first Ser-
interspersed with deep grottos and can- vian prince who received the royal
yons, — the Montenegrin legend being unction in 1217, who succeeded him,
that when the good God was sowing like his father went into a cloister
rocks and mountains in space, he carried toward the close of his days; the
them all in a great bag, and that as he second son founded the national church
was passing over a certain point the of Servia. In 1346 Stephen Douchan,
bottom of the bag fell out, and all the the Powerful, the ninth successor to the
mountains and rocks in that day's stock Servian monarchy, had brought under
constituted Montenegro. his domination the greater part of the
Servia, a compact and fertile State of Balkan peninsula, and carried his con-
one thousand square miles in area, well quering banners even to the gates of
watered by noble streams and studded Constantinople, called himself "Tsar,"
by splendid forests, is divided into two and was recognized by the republic of
distinct regions: Upper Servia. lying Venice and by the Holy See. His son,
between the two Moravas, —
the Ser- who reigned after him, was assassinated
vian, rising in the west, and the Bul- in 1367, and in 1371 the crown passed
garianin the south and Lower Servia,

; to another family, — to the Prince Loza-
formed by the ample basin of the Great rus of the Servian popular ballads. Un-
Morava in which these two streams der the reign of this Prince Lozarus
unite, has all the elements of empire the Turks, commanded by Murad II.,
within it. Had it not been for the gave battle to the Servians at Kossovo,
baleful influence of the Turk, under on the 13th of June, 1389. Both the
whose horses' hoofs no grass can grow, all sultan and Lozarus were killed, and the
these various .Slavonic States now spring- Turks were victorious, and Servia lost
ing into a fresh and vigorous national ex- her independence.

istence might have become very rich ami The Servian throne was not over-
powerful. The Servians were the first turned, however, until 14.">!>, when
of the Slavs who had embraced Chris- Mahomet II. attacked Servia, and defi-
tianity. After the schism of Photius nitely incorporated it with the Turkish
they hesitated for some time between Empire. The Slavs then seemed hope-
Rome and Constantinople, and finally at- lessly condemned to captivity and subju-
tached themselves to the Greek Church, gation. Servia disappeared from history
while their neighbors, the Croats, re- until, after three centuries and a half of
mained Roman Catholics. Up to the unwilling slavery, a heroic swineherd
tenth century they underwent many po- of the Servian mountains rose against
litical vicissitudes. They were subjects the Turks, and led his followers to vic-
or vassals of the Greeks and the Bulga- tory. Becoming a true lender of the
rians until the day when one of their people, a wise and good dictator and
chiefs declared himself independent of prince, driving the Turks beyond the
the monarchies of Byzantium, and took frontier, he was invested with supreme
the title of king, which his descendants power, and reigned from 1804 to 1813.
bore after him. This Chief Simeon ab- Then back came the Turks to drive out
672 EUROPE IN STORM A.\~l> CM M.
the newly installed government, and for a few years the most tremendous
more than two years the unhappy popu- changes had taken place. Early in l.sTii
lation was subjected to the most terrible the insurrectionists gained a victory
excesses. Massacres and c ry torture over the Turks in Herzegovina. Then
that Turkish vengeance could suggest came the scheme of reform presented by
were the order of the dajT . In 1815 the Count Andrassy in favor of the insur-
people rose again at the voice of Milosch, gents, and this was accepted by the sul-
w lioui Russia supported as best she tan's government in February of 187(>.
could, and after fifteen years' fighting the But in May came the news of the Bul-
valiant little country succeeded in getting garian outrages, the terrible atrocities at
its autonomy recognized by the Porte, Batak, the vengeance of the oppressor
and by a firman of the same epoch the upon the oppressed before they could es-
victor was declared hereditary Prince of cape from his tyranny. The massacres by
Servia. To-day the country is an inde- the Circassians in Bulgaria were thor-
pendent kingdom, recognized as such by oughly chronicled " Daily News,"
in the
the treaty of Berlin in 1S7.S. and Prince the leading; liberal journal in London, by
Milan, the cultivated and accomplished Mr. MacGahan, who investigated them
ruler, was made king. Servia has a con- at the risk of his life, and told of them
stitution according hereditary sover- with the simple eloquence of conviction,
eignty, rendering ministers responsible What Mr. MacGahan saw in the Bulga-
before the National Assembly, and giv- rian towns was enough to prove that.
ing exercise of the legislative power sixty or seventy villages had been burned,
simultaneously to the king and the pub- that fifteen or sixteen thousand people
lie legislature, which meets annually, had been massacred, that among tin'
The Senate of Servia has been trans- dead were thousands of women and
formed into a Council of State, charged children, and the women had been oilt-
with the " elaboration of the laws " pre- raged before death, and that there was
pared by the general power above men- no provocation on the part of the Bul-
tioned. garians, beyond their well-known desire
With Bosnia, Herzegovina, Monte- for freedom, to prompt to such awful
negro, and Servia in insurrection, al- carnage.
most one-half of the vast and beauti- The horror ami commiseration which
filldomain of Turkey in Europe was in the recital of these atrocities aroused in
revolt, and it was easy to sec that the Europe were nowhere more pronounced
movement would soon spread to Bui- than in England. There was a conference
garia, and might (moss the Balkans, and Emperors of Russia and
at Berlin of the
go downward to Constantinople. The German} Bismarck and Count Andrassy

-
,
tone of public sentiment in Russia also being present. They put their heads
showed, even in these days of 1875, that together; the British (lectin the Medi-
the advance of a liberating army through terranean was ordered to Besika Ray;
Bessarabia and Roumania to the rescue Constantinople was in terror over the
of the Christiansin the south was not insurrection in Bulgaria, which, although
among the impossibilities. Yet Europe ithad been put down with such violence,
went on in its blind, old, sleepy way. pro- was still a bugbear to tin' peace of Tur-
claiming that there was nodangerof any key. The shrinking and incapable sul
change in the situation, although within tan. Abdul A/.iz. was deposed at
Constantinople, to perish miserably by misuse of the powers established by God

his own some say, by hired as-
ha ml, or, as for thepunishment of evil-doers, and
sassins. Later on, Murad V., who suc- for the encouragement of them that do
ceeded him, announced that the Turkish well. No government ever has so
government was henceforth to grant the sinned, none has so proved itself incor-
liberties of all. Europe smiled at the rigible in sin, or, which is the same, so
possibility of a Turkish Parliament. impotent for reformation." As the Ser-
Meanwhile Disraeli took a jocular vian war progressed the Czar of Russia
view of the massacres in Bulgaria, and made a proposition for the joint military
announced that the British Government occupation of Bosnia and Bulgaria; it
had taken measures lor the maintenance was felt that Austria might presently
of peace. It was apparent, however, appear on the scene; public feeling in
that there was to be no peace in the East Russia and Turkey was greatly excited ;
until the Slavs had set themselves free. finally, a short armistice between Servia
In June of 1>S7G Prince Milan of Servia and Turkey was exacted a( the instance
left Belgrade and went to his army ou of the Russian Government. Lord Salis-
the frontier. The time had come, he bury was sent on his famous journey to
said, to meet the Turk face to face. The Constantinople, via I'ai is, Berlin, Vienna,
situation of Servia was no longer toler- and Rome, to get the views of the various
able, and with insurrection in Bosnia governments on a proposed conference
and Herzegovina, the Servian people on the Eastern Question. During this
must declare war. The Montenegrins journey Lord Salisbury satisfied himself
joined their fortunes to Servia. The of the truth of many things, none more
troops of these bold little States wen' interesting perhaps than that the Triple
at first defeated. But presently came Alliance between the three great mili-
another revolution at Constantinople. tary empires of Russia, Germany, and
Murad V. was succeeded by Abdul Austria, decided on their respective lines
Hamid II. All Europe was now turn- of policy when war should break (ait in
ing its gaze to the East Russia was
: the East, had been consummated as
aiding the Servians, who. in a burst of early as 1*7:1. This must have caused
enthusiasm, finally proclaimed Prince some surprise when it was first made
Milan King of Servia and Bosnia, —a known in Europe, and threw a new light
proclamation which they had later on to upon all the movements in the East.
see annulled by Act of Congress. Mr. The leading features of the Berlin Treaty
Gladstone had plaeed himself on record of 1878 had, it is said, been decide. upon 1
as the uncompromising enemy of the several years before the downward move-
Turkish executive power in Bulgaria, ment of the Russian armies toward
and in all other States. " Let the Bulgaria. Lord Salisbury, although rep-
Turks," he said, " carry away their resenting a pro-Turkish party in the
abuses in the only possible manner — by English was informed during
cabinet,
carrying off themselves." In the same his journey that the English Government
address, in characterizing (he Turkish hail decided that England would not
Government, he said, '-We may ran- " assent to or assist in coercive meas-
sack the annals of the world, lint I know ures, military or naval, against the Porte.
not what research can furnish us with The Porte must, on the other hand, be
so portentous an example of the fiendish made to understand, as it has from the
fi74 EUROPE IN STORM AXD CALM.
firsl been informed, that it can expect Meanwhile turn with me from tins
no assistance from England in the event contemplation of the progress of events
of war." Had England used its influ- in the East to recall a curious incident
ence to coerce the Turk in those days, of the Herzegovinan insurrection, —a
the succeeding campaigns, the entrance visit which 1 made in company with two
of Russia upon the scene, and her as- or three other journalists to the in-
sumption of predominating influence in surgents'camp, established among the

Eastern Europe might have been checked almost inaccessible crags nut far from
or averted. the coast, in the autumn of 1875.
——
BUROVE IN STORM AND CALM. 1)75
C II AFTER SEVENTY-SEVEN.
A Day willi a Vodvoda. An Insurgent Leader. — Among the Rocks. —A Picturesque Experience.
Turk and •Slav. — Ljubibratic and his Men.
A S we rode down the little hill be- press us, although we had need of all
J^- tween Ragusa and Gravosa it our faculties at that moment. The driver,
suddenly occurred to us that twit one who appeared ready to fall from his seat,
else had gone to sleep in the quiet of overcome with somnolence, pulled up
the warm Oetober afternoon, and that it his horses beneath the shade of a large
was especially absurd to be starting upon tree, and we leaned back in the rickety
a long and toilsome journey, when we carriage, and were fast yielding to temp-
could sit under the cliffs by the Adriatic tation when we were aroused by the
and he lulled into delicious repose by the who had
sharp, clear voice of our guide,
music of the blue waves breaking against been lingering behind. " We must go
the reddish-tinted rocks. The tiny villas on to Ombla," he said. " The voivoda
nestling in the olive-groves seemed to will soon follow us, and we must get,
blink sleepily at us as we passed the ; boats ready and lose no time when lie
peasants lying curled up by the wayside catches up with us, or we shall not reach
in curiously picturesque heaps slept the camp before dark. Anil strangers,"
soundly; the boatmen huddled beneath — said our guide, Tomo, with a half-dis-
the awnings of their small crafts were dainful inflection upon the word,
snoring in unison as we came to the ba- ••
strangers cannot pick their way among
sin at Gravosa; the vast hills, which rose the Herzegovinan rocks after nightfall."
stern, stony, terrible in the distance, ap- ••
Bui there will be a full moon," we
peared to be dreaming in the tremulous ventured to remark.
autumn sunshine. In the cafe of Gra- •So much the worse for you," said
vosa half-a-dozen stalwart mountaineers Tomo, speaking slowly in the Italian,
had hud aside their packs, and, burying which was difficult for his Slavic tongue,
their faces in their hands, were leaning but was the necessary vehicle of con-
forward upon the tallies. In the post- versation. "The moonlight might lead
office had doffed his
the venerable clerk the gentlemen to break their necks. The
heavy Austrian cap, head against
laid his moon plays queer tricks in these rocky
the wall near the wicket, and luxuriously tields. She makes one believe that there
closed his eyes. It was one of the clock is solid stone where there is a yawning
in theafternoon in Dalmatia, and men precipice. .She tries the eyes of the
who walked abroad, and seemed bent mountaineer, puts magical
charms be-
upon some errand at that hour sacred to fore his gaze, and makes him lose his
sleep, would have been watched as dan- way. The gentlemen could not even
gerous had there been any one awake walk among our crags and rocks in the
to watch them. moonlight. Better a thick darkness : then
The general sleepiness seemed to op- one is not dazed ; and one can grope."
('.7(1 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
So sa3"ing, Tomo shouldered his gun. seem to lie lovingly upon the slopes and
turned gracefully from us, and set out terraces of s'.one ; at noon great glorious
for Ombla. The driver impatiently leath- waves of light break over them, and
ered up his reins, murmuring, " Madre magically transform them into reddish-
di hiii! when shall we be well rid of brown ruined castles, or deep gray mon-
these Greeks ? " and we rattled along in asteries, or pink or golden forests ; every-
Tomo's wake. thing seems strange and supernatural.
A turn in the road just as wc seemed Late in shadows gather
the afternoon the
about to plunge into the Adriatic, a drive in the ten thousand nooks and crevices,
along a narrow causeway with an arm and lend a forbidding aspect to the enor-
of the sea on one side and high stone mous barriers which seem to have some
walls and scraggy houses on the other, secret toguard, and to refuseadmittance
and at last we came to a square sur- to the land beyond to the anxious wan-
rounded with low villas. A little alloy derer. One feels as if one were upon
led down to the water-side. At the foot enchanted ground.
of three steps a large boat was moored. Of the many routes which lead into
In the boat, lay its owner asleep. Here Herzegovina from Ragusa, the near-
we were to await the voivoda. est Dalmatian port, there is hut one
Picture to yourself a vast amphi- which is in any sense practicable for
theatre of eolossal rocks rising majes- even the rude wagons or the pack-mules
tically from blue water fringed with a used in the transportation of supplies to
few straggling decs. As far as the eye the Turkish fortresses. All the others
can reach hillward nothing but stones, lead through small villages perched
bald, uncouth, tremendous, piled one among the mountains at points where a
upon another in confusion which no pen little soil and a few springs of fresh
can describe. Here the walls which water are to he found. The unhappy trav-
shut out the rich valleys and smiling eller who should attempt alone to thread
tields beyond seem almost perpendic- these comparatively unfrequented and
ular. One cannot imagine that among absolutely labyrinthine paths would in-
them there are roadways, or even paths cur imminent risk of dying of exhaus-
along which goats and their shepherds tion, or might fall a prey to the small
may stray. In the centre of the amphi- banditti always hovering along the Aus-
theatre are a lew scattered white cottages trian frontier, bidding defiance to the
surrounding a mysterious rivulet which (je.ndurmes, or, if caught, pretending to
bubbles up from the rocks, and, after be insurgents on the lookout for arms
flowing in an impetuous current for a and ammunition. If the traveller be ac-
short distance, disappears again among companied by a stout, guide he will yet
them. It is a region from which there find himself many times on the point of
seems no outlet save that by which wc succumbing to the dreadful fatigue which
entered it, one narrow strip of winding overcomes him as lie clambers inces-
load. Such is the basin of hill-guarded little or no chance
santly up, up. up, with
Ombla. and with the sun's rays beat-
for repose,
Tlu coast of Dalmatia, at this point, ing down with terrific force upon his
where its mountains touch the frontier head. Those who have ever wandered
of Herzegovina,, is wonderfully rich in along the side of Vesuvius under an
color. At early morning purple tints August sunlight can in a faint degree
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. G77
appreciate the terrors of a climbing ammunition-boxes nearly empty, this lit-

joust in the mountains on the Herzego- tle army had resolutely placed its picket
vinan frontier. lines within half an hour's march of a

Our guide, Tomo, had many times told formidable Turkish fortress, and had
us of the dangers of the way; indeed, determined to study the situation before
he took a certain malicious pleasure in proceeding farther. The chiefs held a.
depicting every horror, and in setting it meeting, and decided to send their leader,
in the most repulsive light. This he did (lie voivoda, a stern, brave, well-edu-
not from any ill-will towards us, but from cated man, named Ljubibratic, to Ragusa,
that natural instinct which leads the that he might, during his brief visit, get
mountaineer and the sailor always to some idea of the opinion of the outside
mock at those 1
who arc unaccustomed to world concerning the struggle. The voi-
precipices or to the sea. Our gay and voda came from his fortress to Ragusa. ;
cosmopolitan party, gathered from all there we met him and were invited to
corners of the world to witness the great return with him to the rock-surrounded
struggle in progress in the autumn of camp of Grebzi. The invitation was ac-
1875 by the oppressed Christians against cepted. The news, speedily bruited abroad
their oppressive Turkish masters, upon in Kagusa,so astonished the Turkish con-
whom they hail finally turned with all sul that he quite forgot his dignity,and
the energy of men made desperate by calling on us one by one, entreated us
long suffering, had been snugly en- •' not to risk our lives among the ruf-
camped in the garrison town of Ragusa fians ;
" to believe the hundred lies
" not
for some days, patiently awaiting a sum- we were sure to hear from the Greeks ;"
mons from one of the insurgent chiefs, and, finally, not to give the insurgents
camped nearthe Austrian border, to visit any details relative to the positions of
him. The committee of Slavs in Ra- Turkish forces which we had seen during
gusa interested in the success of the in- a recent journey made on the high road
surrection had forwarded to one of the to Trebigne, an important Turkish post.
camps a request that we should lie es- We fancied that we could detect a twin-
corted to the centre of operations, and kle of malice in the consul's eye as he
introduced personally to the leaders who deprecatingly bade us good-by when he
were fighting for freedom and for the found that we were determined to ven-
maintenance of the Christian religion. ture among the insurgents, and it did not
Several times, a day had been appointed, require a, lively imagination to picture
and guides had been sent to meet us, him sending a messenger in hot haste to
but before we had left Ragusa news had the nearest Mahometan fort, advising
arrived that the insurgents had broken its commander to intercept us, and not
camp and were on a forced march of only capture the wandering voivoda., but.
many days. Thus we had waited in un- (ait off the heads of his companions. An
certainty, until one morning we were in- encounter with a Turkish patrol was
formed that the main body of the rebels, among the possibilities, but we dismissed
twenty-five hundred strong, was en- the unpleasant thought ofit from our
camped in the almost inaccessible vil- minds, as we stood looking at the sombre
lage of Grebzi, in a corner of Herze- and precipitous banks of Ombla, and
govina, within a few hours' march of concentrated our attention upon the ex-
Ragusa. Footsore, exhausted, and with act ing task before us.
678 EUROPE IX STORM AND CAl V.
Meantime the voivoda, with his little with martial air. Handsome fellows
body-guard of tall, lithe Herzegovinans, were they, with long, coal-black hair
well armed with trusty, although ancient and mustaches, with noble necks and
rifles,with yataghans taken from the chests, sinewy and symmetrical limbs.
bodies of dead Turks, and with pistols Their teeth were like pearls, their eyes
half a yard long, was supposed to be were bright, their gait was elastic. In-
plodding on from Ragusa to overtake voluntarily they glanced at us. then at
us, and at Ombln we wire all to starl the rocks overhanging Onibla, and then
together for the mountain ascent. An they shook" their heads. We felt chal-
hour passed the boatman awoke, rolled

; lenged to put forth our best efforts on
and lighted a cigarette, swore a gentle the march, and nerved ourselves ac-
oath, looked at the sun, then at us, and cordingly.
shrugged his shoulders novoivoda came. ; Voivoda Ljubibratic looked like an
Another hour passed, during which the ancient Servian king stepped out of the
boatman and Tomo, besides continually margin of some illuminated manuscript
consuming cigarettes, now and then mist I of Stephen Douchan's time. He wore
into violent invectives; still novoivoda the costume of the people of Servia,
came, Frenchman in ourpartysang
'the among whom he had lived nearly all
a song; the Italian fumed and fretted; his life, although he was Herzegovinan
the Slavic professor maintained an at- born. A green tunic, witli loosely-flow-
titude expressive of mild astonishment ; ing sleeves, was girt about his waist with
the Russian agent, sent to dispense a simple belt, in which there were no
moneys and charities, frowned tremen- weapons. At his side hung a line sabre
dously, and hinted that (he voivoda was of modern make, the symbol of his au-
not as good as his word and we two ; thority. His leggins and his opank&s,
Americans looked from one to the other or slippers, were of line material, but
of the members of the eccentric group, much worn and frayed by long marches
and then glanced along the dusty road in tlie rocky by-ways. Beneath the tunic
down which the voivoda was expected. his ample chest was covered by a Ser-
There he was! An old man, almost vian jacket, richly embroidered with gold
grovelling in the dust, was kissing his and silver. I lis face, exceptionally fine
hand, worshipping in him the would-be in repose, bore an expression of simple
liberator of his race. Surely, the voi- good-humor when animated a lofty :
voda was a romantic and impressive fig- brow, only partly shaded by a Monte-
ure as he strode a few steps ahead of his negrin cap tine eyes, which had a sin-
;
guard through the village. The hybrid gular fashion of looking out and away
Slavo-ltalian children bowed and courte- from present objects, as if their owner
sied : the nut-brown maidens blushed were continually endeavoring to exam-
and cast down their eves; the old ine the future ; a sensitive mouth and a
women shrieked with delight, " Voivoda ! noble brown beard, were the conspicuous
voivoda! Now may Heaven Mess and features. One instinctively felt proud
preserve you many
ever good years, to take the voivoda by the hand.
voivoda, our only trust, our all !" The This title of "voivoda " was not the
affection, the earnest adoration, were exclusive property of our friend Ljubi-
almost painful to witness. The men-at- bratic. In the camp at Grebzi were half-
arms grinned with delight and strutted a-dozen other chieftains who. from the
fact that they commanded large bodies contempt in the Levant, set off at a sharp
of men. were privileged to employ the pace ahead of ns.
same prefix to their names; but, recog- The voivoda was thoughtful. The sun
nizing the fact that there must be only was pouring great floods of scorching
one supreme authority, they had vested heat down upon the bare stones, but he
it in Ljubibratio, and had permitted him seemed oblivious alike of the warmth and
to be recognized in all the country round of the mighty ascent. He lounged slowly
as the voivoda. I have endeavored to behind all the others, rolling cigarettes
give the singular name the English in an indolent, thoughtful way, as every
spelling which most resembles its sound one does in these Eastern countries, and
when it is pronounced by the .Slavs now and then stopping to take a long
themselves. In Servia there are five look at the Turkish frontier, which we
grand territorial divisions called voi- could see as soon as we had climbed to
vodies, created for convenience in the top of the first ridge. lie seemed to
grouping the militia of the country, and be studying every rock, as if calculating
the leaders of the troops are called how all these mute forces could be turned
voivods. into agents to aid in destroying the op-
As soon as he could free himself from pressive Mahometans.
the exuberant caresses of the people in If seemed like tempting Providence to
the village voivoda beckoned the
the climb such awful heights under a burn-
boatman to approach. The obsequious ing sun. There were moments when the
fellow doffed his hat, and came running courage of our party gave way during
up the stone steps, muttering compli- th" first half-hour, and we determined to
ments in his Italian dialect. ' Set us return. We looked up; there towered
across at yonder point," said the voivoda, the mighty, bald masses, unutterably
pointing to along, ragged promontory of grand, silent, severe ; there seemed no
stone some distance below the little white way through them or around or beneath
houses of Ombla. " And remember," them. We looked down, and we saw
he added which he spoke
in liquid Italian, the blue waters of the inlet at Ombla, the
far better than the boatman himself, boatmen tranquilly rowing in the breezy
" let no one in the village say whither we waves or lying luxuriously stretched out
have gone or how many we are." lie beneath their awnings as their little craft
laid his hand heavily on the boatman's rocked to and fro, and we were anxious
shoulder. The brown hand of the Italian to get down to safe ground again. The
came up to his breast and made a sign as thought of night among these mountains
of complete subordination to the voivo- seemed almost frightful to us. But we
da's will. We hastened into the boat, rose ami staggered along.
and were soon on the opposite sin ire. As Suddenly we tinned a sharp corner
we began to climb among the rocks two and came to a rocky ledge, from which
rough-looking fellows, the very counter- we had a glorious view of the tranquil
parts of the Italian brigands we have all Adriatic. How beautiful was the sea,
so often seen in operas, arose mysteri- girdling the little dun-colored islets and
ously from behind a crag, and. without setting boldly in to the romantic inden-
even deigning to notice our party of tations of the coast! Miles below, on
strangers, clad in the ugly, civilized the Dalmatian shore, we could see here
clothes which are looked upon with such and there a chape] lonely upon a hill-
li.sn EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
-ill", or :i ilark clump of olive trees, or neck. A second glance at the mass
a little village clinging to the rocks out showed that it was a fortification which
of which it. was Imilt. We turned from we had seen many times before, the —
the sea with a sigh, and clambered once round, picturesque fort of Czarino,
mi ire. on the Turkish frontier. AVith the aid
Tomo, the guide, reminded me much we could see figures
of our field-glasses
of those stalwart bronze-colored men moving about on the ramparts, and the
whom I had seen in the Indian Territory, Russian agent insisted that they, too,
those still splendid types of the fading were sweeping the sky with glasses,
Cherokee and Choctaw races He had and that they saw us.
thesame graceful quickness of limb, the '•What matter':" said the voivoda
same stern repose of feature, the same serenely. " We may sit here and make
contempt for fatigue. He never sal mouths at our enemies : we are on Aus-
down to rest he was in perpetual move-
: trian territory, and they dare not lire on
ment. It we came by chance to a little us ; and as to their sending a patrol it,
terrace "here some miserable peasant could not. even leave the fort without
had taken advantage of half an acre of being signalled to our people at Grebzi
untrustworthy soil to grow a straggling and down to us here before the Turks
vineyard, he did not stretch his limbs in could have got will nalcrway. There
the shade of the vines, as we did; 1ml are men in that, fort who know these
he leaped from rock to rock, he vaulted mountain ways they were brought up
:
lightly across a chasm, clambered up a in Herzegovina; they are renegades

peak, ran for a.few yards, Stood poised to their religion and to their race; they
almost as if he were about to fly away are the last men to venture out among
like a bird. Sometimes lie sang a rude, the precipices so near nightfall ; and as
hut not unmusical song, in which hi' was for the Asiatic portion of the garrison
joined by two Montenegrins who were there is no danger that it will come to
with us. and who kept time to the refi aiu us, for quaking with terror in antici-
ii is
by brandishing their weapons as they pation of an attack upon tiie walls of

walked. Tomo constantly came to us, Czarino this very night." And the
encouraging us. speaking kind words in voivoda tranquilly lighted another cigar-
his Italian patois: "Courage! the worsl ette.
is over. You \\ ill soon be at a little vil- This tort of Czarino occupies an al-
lage where von can rest. Ancliamo!" most isolated crag, about half an hour's
A Her an hour's climbing we found our- rule from the city of Ragusa. It domi-
selves on a huge shelf from which we nates the only practicable route from
could look out hundreds of yards over southern Austria, into Herzegovina
the rocky field in every direction. Tin' and the other provinces subject to
voivoda uscame
and smilingly to Turkey. The insurgents persisted in
pointed to a dark, round mass on the hovering near it, although (here was
horizon, which, as birds fly, would have but little chance of .securing it. " If
been scarcely a quarter of a mile distant, I had but two batteries of mountain
Imt which could have been reached in artillery!" sighed the voivoda. "lint
these terrible mountains only by the we have nothing, not even ammunition
high-road from Ragusa, or by several enough to light a good battle." He
hours of clambering at the risk of one's turned away in silence, and the Russian
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM 681
agent,began to say comforting words, lation in Austria that they would be

and to hint at the support which would compelled to join in the struggle against,
be mysteriously forthcoming at the the Turks. When the old man had
proper time. finished his remarks he gravely kissed
Crawling, scrambling, leaping, our the hand of the voivoda, and retired,
heads dizzy, our shoulders and limbs saluting us with staid, solemn gestures.
lame, we finally came to a plateau, at From the village to the camp at Grebzi
whose farther extremity, under the there were yet two hours of vigorous
shadow of a rocky hill, we saw a little climbing and scrambling to be under-
village. There were a, few green trees. gone, and we made but a brief halt.
and low one-story houses, miserably The avant-couriers who had joined us
thatched, and heaped about with stones. at Ombla had not halted at all, lint were
A ragged population tame out to meet now lost to sight beyond the jutting
us. The womeu were mainly engaged stones on the horizon. As we left the
in carrying heavy burdens, fagots of collection of miserable hovels villagers
wood or bundles of grain, on their crowded on the steps of the voivoda,
heads. Incessant toil had taken away some proffering complaints that his men
most of their enthusiasm ; they merely had robbed them of kids or goats ; others
courtesied as the voivoda passed. The that lie did not make move-
decisive
men greeted the chief with effusive ments enough; yet others that he al-
friendship and reverence. Although lowed strangers —
alluding to us lo —
still in Austria, Ljubibratic felt thor- come into the country and to discover his
oughly at home here, because the people forces. To all these he replied by scorn-
were of the same race, religion, and ful waves of the hand, or now and then
sentiment as the ignorant and oppressed by loud, imperious commands of silence.
Herzegovinans over the border. As We soon left the grumblers behind, and
we stepped in upon the circle of a stone were once more alone with the rocks.
threshing-floor, and sat down lo drink But presently, as the hour of sunset
from a gourd, and to bathe our swollen approached, we encountered large flicks
hands, torn and bruised with grasping of goats coming down from (heir dubious
the rocks, a noble and statuesque old pasturage of the day to their folds for the
man, fully six feet and a half in height, night. Sometimes the only practicable
came forward to greet the voivoda. route was not large enough to permit of
This venerable man was as erect and the passage of our party and a. flock of
stately as lie had been at twenty-five ; goats also. A leader of the horned ami
his eyes were dim, but he still had a bearded denizens of the mountains would
firm gait and a noble port, although lie eye us for a few moments, as if he con-
had seen ninety years. His tine head templated giving battle, but, after a. sur-
was enveloped in a voluminous red vey of our numbers, would turn back
turban, but the rest of his garments with an angry snort and a choleric stamp
were little better than rags. This was of his fore feet. More than once I climbed
the chief of the village, and he held a a high rock with a view of protecting
long and animated conversation with myself from the possible attacks of these
the voivoda, urging him, so said Tomo, wild goats, that rebel even against (he
I some daring act which
he guide, to do rough mountaineers who own them.
should so compromise the Slavic popu- Night came suddenly. The rocky
ways became obscure; one looked up came a peculiar hail, along, low cry. In a
in surprise to find the sky darkening moment it was repeated. Thenitwasan-
above him ; there seemed n<> slow, in- swered from our side, and also repeated,
sidious approach of twilight, as in lower Presently, from the left, came a similar
regions. We quickened our pace. The hail, similarly answered by our men,
body-guard scattered hither and yon, and who had gone in that direction. In a
no longer chattered in the smoothly moment more the rocks all around us
flowing Slavic Our party, French, Ital- swarmed with armed men. who jumped
ian, Russian, American, was oppressed down joyously, crying, "Voivoda! voi-
and overwhelmed by the coming dark- voda!" Many of them crowded around
ness. The rocks took on fantastic shapes : him, kissing his hands and the hem of
a belated shepherd a little way off seemed his garment, while others entered into
to us like a pinnacle overhanging the a noisy explanation of the events which
narrow path, and half-a-dozen pinnacles had occurred since his departure. Sooth-
looked like Mahometan soldiers waiting and quieting them as if they had been
inn to tire upon us as we passed. "\Ye children, he led the way. calling us to
descended into a valley, then wearily follow, across a terribly rugged patch of
climbed another ridge. Nowhere now rocks a mile or two long, then down a
was there clump of fo-
visible a tree or lane walled in on either side, and intl'O-
liage or minutest shrub; nowhere any- duced us without warning to one of the
thing save rocks, — rocks on all sides, most unique spectacles that mv eyes
On the top of the ridge the guards halted, have ever rested upon.
< hie of them sat down and listened in- The lane terminated abruptly on a
tently. The voivoda, who now preceded ledge from which we looked down into
us, motioned us to halt. Parties of the a cup set in the hills, and guarded on
insurgents moved to the left and the every hand by a succession of rolling
right. At last the voivoda seated him- valleys filled with jagged masses of stone.
self on a convenient stone, and calling In this deep, cup-shaped space a large
to us, and pointing down into a second number of little camp-fires were burn-
valley, now almost concealed in the rap- inn, and flitting to and fro among them
idly deepening shadows, and then to the we could sec stalwart men armed to the
rugged ghostly hills beyond, he said, teeth. A loud hum, the echo of the
"Gentlemen, welcome to mv domain! noisy conversation
around the fires,
You are in the Herzegovina." drifted up to our cars. Here and there,
Nowhere was there sight or sound of where the flame burned out brightly, we
camp. The waste seemed untenanted, could see small, ugly, black cottages.
Our hearts sank as we imagined lone a. Away off among the rocks we heard
night-journey to the village among the the monotonous refrain of a song, doubt-
rocks. We rose with the energy of de- less sung by some warrior, who in halt-
spair when the voivoda invited us (o con- ing rhythm was celebrating his exploits
tinue the route to Grebzi. Where were of the past week or of the day.
the insurgent forces? The transition from the solemn and
We began to descend into the valley, awful calm of the Herzegovinan high-
Here there was a. narrow path of smooth lands — the calm which we hail felt with
stones. We had none but a few steps such terrific force just as the curtain of
when from the bosom of the rocks there darkness was linallv drawn — to this half-
joyous, hall-savage vivacity of the camp movements of a large part of the

and the village, was almost repulsive. forces.
There seemed something weird, super- The first instinctive movement, on
natural iu it. We dreaded to go down, hearing Peko's name, was one of repul-
lest we might find that we had ventured sion, for he had been described to us,
u|>on a Walpurgis Night, or some dread- even by his ardent admirers, as a demon
ful assemblage of sorcerers from below. incarnate, a species of Hans of Iceland,
There was, however, just at this moment breathing out slaughter, delighting in the
a smart commotion in the camp: hasty mutilation of the bodies of his victims,
words were heard there was a rattle
; and cherishing the most fiendish malice.
of arms men ran to and fro and a few
; ; In the early days of the insurrection Peko
careless shots were tired. had established at Slivnitza a camp —
• What is it, Tomo?" we asked of the not far from Grebzi —
a "reliquary,"
guide. where the heads of Turks slain iu battle

" It is the voivoda's arrival," he said. were kept as ghastly trophies. A young
11
Probably some one on an out-of-the- Russian officer informed me that he had
way peak saw us coming, and rushed in visited this reliquary, and that Peko ex-
to give an alarm, thinking it might be hibited to him with the greatest pride the
the enemy ; but now our men have ar- corpse of a Turkish officer, which iiad
rived and the mistake is corrected, and been carried away from some skirmish-
we shall all be welcome. You will see ;" field, and was kept there that the insur-
and Tomo bristled with pride and stroked gents might gloat over the corruption of
his long black mustaches. (heir enemy's body.
We did see. The voivoda sprang A moment after we had looked on Peko
lightly down from the ledge, — it seemed our repulsion had vanished. He is a
as if he were leaping from a high preci- nobly formed Montenegrin of the heroic
pice into an abyss, — but he landed safely type, pretty well past the flower of his
on a rock below, then upon another, and middle life. His face is as clearly cut as
we followed him. Tomo shouted to us that of a handsome woman ; his brows
to keep background till he came,
in the shade a pair of deep, sombre eyes, with
as strange faces might not please some nothing whatever murderous in their
of the more ignorant of the insurgents ; glance. His thin shaded by a
lips are
but our curiosity spurred us on, and broad black mustache his massive
:
we strode along a narrow village street, chin, his square jaw, give evidence of
flanked on either side by one-story stone strength of will and character. His
hovels. Suddenly a torch Bared up. ami mighty chest was sheathed in a >ilver
a group of noble and impressive-looking jacket of mail, the front of which was
men approached. The voivoda hastened very elaborately ornamented. This bit
toward the elder and graver of the two of mediasval splendor, of which most
foremost, and the pair embraced, kiss- of the Montenegrin chiefs are very fond,
ing each other repeatedly. He then must have cost Peko a pretty penny. To
gave the same affectionate greeting to describe his weapons would be merely to
all the others, and, after some hurried puzzle the leader: suffice it to say that
conversation, introduced us to Peko in his girdle he wore nearly a dozen
Pavlovic, renowned and terrible
the small-arms, and that on the march he
slayer of Turks, and director of the invariably carries a rifle, which he uses
unerringly. Peko has till the befitting most forcible human expressions of
qualities of a chief save education : he the four-hundred-year period of hate
is ignorant, and the voivoda, although of the Montenegrin for the Turk that
U'ss versed than Peko in the science of 1 have ever seen. He has given his
mountain warfare, lias frequently saved whole body and soul to the task of driv-
him from blunders into which he would ing the Moslems from the countries
have rushed, compromising the whole which they have so lone oppressed, and
insurrection in the eves of neighboring he will mercilessly to that end
labor
nations. When the voivoda first came until his dying day.
from Belgrade to Herzegovina to start Peko and his fellow-chiefs, Herzego-
the rebellion against the Turks. Peko vina!) and Montenegrin, erected us
was sent out by the Prince of Mon- kindly. Luca Petcovic, one of the most
tenegro to check him, and to warn him noted of the elder chief tains, wasabsent,
th.it the time was not yet. Peko met but there were others whose scais and
Ljubibratic, and told him bis mission ;
the renown of whoso exploits entitled
lint (lie voivoda would not listen to per- them to notice, who wandered with us
suasion. Upon this Peko seized Ljubi- about the camp, explaining, through the
bratic, had him bound hand and foot joyous and willing Tomo, everything
and conveyed to the frontier, and lie which we did not understand. As it
went to see that the orders were obeyed. was not thought wise to attempt an ex-
But on the way to the Austrian border planation of the mission of journalists
Ljubibratic succeeded in persuading Peko to the common soldiers we were intro-
that the Herzegovina
insurrection in duced to the group as gentlemen who
was ripe and should be begun, and that bad come to inspect- the " Italian squad-
the Prince of Montenegro ought to lie ron," which was proving itself a most
prevailed upon to aid it, at least tacitly. efficient aid to the insurrection ami un- ;
Peko at once ordered the voivoda's hands der these borrowed colors we succeeded
to he unloosed, returned with him to a in obtaining a cordial welcome from every
camp, joined the insurgents, and ac- one. The warriors left off their whining,
knowledged his late prisoner as his com- monotonous chants as we approached,
mander-in-chief. Since that time he had and rose to greet us courteously. Two
implicitly followed the lead of the voi- men were despatched to a spring, which
voda in general matters, venturing only was a long distance from the camp, for
now and then to differ in regard to the water, which they transport in these
Conduct of an expedition or the treat- mountain regions in pig-skins, as they
ment of a captured enemy. do also in Spain and two or three other
;
Peko is still a force in Herzegovina stout fellows, having slaughtered a

against the Turks. He rushes down sheep and dressed it, spitted the animal
from the mountains with a little band on an old sabre, and were soon roasting
and annihilates a convoy, beheads whole before a cheerful lire.
it. Having
an aga or a hey, or throws hall'-a- no longer any lens to stand on, we sank
dozeu soldiers over a precipice, before down, a tired and demoralized group,
the Astonished Moslems can say a upon some rocks near the hut in which
prayer. He kills with frenzy, but the Italians were quartered, ami watched
behind all his apparent barbarity there the warriors as hey came and went, or as
t
is a fixed motive. lie is one of the they stood indolently smoking their long
?
pipes and listening in a half-suspicious, been just tolerable to look at; hut even
half-amused manner to the jargon of then it must have appeared barbarous.
English, French, and Italian which We were lodged that night in a house
echoed from our party. which, as the voivoda assured us with a
Noble men physically, these warriors, smile, was once the home of a wealthy
— the best products of Herzegovina; fanner. It consisted of three rooms un-
yet men so abased by centuries of op- der one thatched roof. Two of the rooms
pression that they were, hopelessly igno- were perhaps half a story higher than
rant, and were bringing up their children the third, and in those we slept. The
in ignorance. Shapely, cleanly men, of inner one resembled a cellar; its floor
fine instincts, one would say; no Ion of stone was littered with si raw ; [ightwas
cunning in their faces ; not men to knock admitted through two small apertures in
a traveller on the head, like a Sicilian an immensely thick wall, and the door
or Corsican mountaineer, but men who was scarcely high enough to admit any
needed only a chance at development to one of us. In the outer room a 'ire
improve it. They had sent all their smouldered on the hearth, and the smoke
wives and children over the Austrian wandered into vwvy corner. A few
border, where they would be sal'e from wooden bowls, trenchers, one or two rude
the murderous vengeance of the Turks knives, an iron wash-basin, and a eanip-
and of (hose fanatical Slavs who long stool made in Ragusa, were the only
ago renounced the Christian religion for articles of furniture we could discover.
Mohammedanism; and they felt free to These had contented the wealthy farmer
fight. My heart went out to these down- all his life, Tomo said with a grin, as he
trodden, misunderstood •• nivalis," — arranged our sleeping-room : why should
these men who might at any time be we ask for more
hampered in their struggles for freedom Before we retired to this abode of lux-
by the intrigues of greater nations near ury the chiefs came in friendliest fashion
them, — these men who followed so will- to mm' us partake of the supper which
ingly and obeyed so implicitly their had been prepared for us. I was much
voivoda, and who looked upon him as a amused at the manner in which the men
demi-god. who were delegated to serve us managed
Not a house in this village camp of their apologies for a lack of numerous
Grebzi had a chimney the two or three; necessary articles, such as salt, bread,
hovels into which we ventured were so etc Each of them would approach the
filled with smoke from the tires on tin' voivoda respectfully and demand per-
hearths that we were compelled to re- mission to whisper in his ear. He would
treat. The furniture was of the simplest then very privately communicate his in-
description. There were no beds, but telligence to the voivoda, who in his turn
low stone couches, like those one sees in would inform us that there was no salt
houses in Pompeii; on these straw and or bread to be had. Thereupon, our
blankets were spread. Chairs, tables, cooks, with a bow to us, would withdraw
and such luxuries evidently had never with a contented air, as a good ho
been heard of at Grebzi. It was a mis- wife does iii America after she has ma-
erable little village, forlorn, in the crags. ligned her own cookery in the presence
Before the women and children, who cul- of her guests, and given a hundred
tivate the fields, had tied, it might have reasons why it is worse than usual.
68H EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
\Y"e were too weary to eat much, hut upon their toilets ; upon the breasts of
we drank refreshing draughts of thecool Peko and one or two of his companions
water, and made our way speedily to the Russian medals glittered. The sun's
cellar-room, where we lay down upon rays threw a halo around the picturesque
the straw with Tomo as guard in front little group, and for a moment the sheen
of the door, stretched out with his head of the weapons worn by all was dazzling.
in the smoke. The arrival of a Turkish The voivoda, in his green tunic, and with
battalion could hardly have succeeded his fine head bared to the morning breeze,
in awakening ns. and the innumerable was a noble figure. Each chief as be
wood-lice and bugs native to the locality delivered his opinion stood up in the
only did it once. middle of the circle and spoke in low,
It was dawn at three o'clock. Tomo, solemn sometimes gravely ges-
tones,
building the fire, aroused us. In a few ticulating with his pipe. Only one or
minutes he brought us cups of hot, fra- two of the men showed signs of anger
grant coffee, made in the Turkish fash- or excitement, and was when they that
ion. We seemed endowed with new pointed to the mountain ridge beyond
strength: our fatigues of yesterday were which the Turks were encamped in their
forgotten. The cool air rushing in fortresses.
through the stone aperture which served The twenty-five hundred insurgents
for a window was inspiring. In an hour were busy polishing their arms, prepar-
more the camp was astir. Warriors who ing their coffee, —
which appeared to be
had sung persistently until the small the only breakfast that they took, — and
hours appealed fresh and prepared for singing, or rather crooning, their monot-
war. We went, down into the streets or onoiis melodies. A small party was de-
lanes, and soon met the voivoda walk- tailed to cross the Austrian frontier and
iug leisurely to and fro, with his hands descend to the town of Ragusa for the
clasped behind him. '-The council of bread, furnished by an " insurrectionary
war is called for six o'clock.'' he said, committee" composed of sympathetic
" and you must see it. Only, pray do not Slavs, whose breach of neutrality was
come too near to it. as some chief might winked at by the Austrian government,
fancy his sense of dignity Offended." Toward seven o'clock the sentries who
We promised, and at six. as the hills had been watching all night on the peaks
all around resounded to the pipes of the round about the camp came in weary
shepherds who were leading their Hocks and famished with hunger, and reported
of goats to their favorite pasturage, we that they had left others in their places.
climbed to a little eminence where grew As soon as the council broke up. hun-
soine grass and a few stunted trees. dreds of men pressed about the chiefs.
There a. dozen chiefs were seated in a anxious to learn their decision: and a
circle, with the voivoda in the centre, joyous shout, which would not have been
Their gravity was as stern ami nurelent- at all relished by the Turks had they
ing as that of our Indians. Most of the heard it, announced that another march
men were smoking, but the Herzegovi- and an offensive movement had been
nan rarely lays aside his pipe save when resolved upon.
he sleeps or lights. It is second nature Then came the gathering of the eorn-
to him to smoke. The Montenegrin panics. There was no pretence at a tor-
chiefs had bestowed some little attention mal review: the nature of the ground
EUROPE I\ STORM AND CALM. 687
would not have permitted it, and the our return journey. The voivoda gave
men were hardly well enough disciplined us an escort, and himself accompanied
for it. They needed no training: they us to a point near the frontier. Leaning
followed their leaders blindly, and fought against a huge rock he talked for an
desperately, Herzegovinan fash-
in the hour in his grave, stern way of his hopes,
ion, from behind the rooks and ledges, his fears, his ambitions. For merciless
as long as their ammunition lasted, and war Turk he was fully inclined he
to the :
then they retreated. The voivoda pasaed felt that he had men enough, but no
from group to group of the insurgents, proper arms, and but little moral support
talking cheerfully and familiarly with from the outside world, "We shall
all : then he dismissed them with a wave make no concessions," he said simply.
of his hands, and tinned to us, saying, " and we will never lav down our arms."
•• These men will march all through to- I am glad to note that the veteran Peko
night, fight all day to-morrow, clamber has carried out these principles to the
among the rocks for hours after the bat- letter.
tle, ami will go without food and water Ljubibratic looked heroic, as he stood
for twenty-four hours at a time. If they with his arms folded across his massive
but had modern nuns and plenty of am- chest, and with his figure braced against
"
munition ! the bowlder, which rose gigantic, casting
The testimony of a young French offi- a shadow over us all as we gazed upon
cer who had joined the insurgent forces, him. It was by no means an agreeable
and who was proving a very efficient aid task for a man of his culture and breed-
to the voivoda, was that these men fought ing to go back to daily association with
well, and even with skill, seeming by in- and constant peril among the rough
stinct to understand many things in war- men in the camp behind him, — to the
fare which men of other countries must petty dissensions of the chiefs and the
learn. Every one of them had regis- squalid huts on the rocky hills, — but he
tered a solemn vow that he would never never wavered for an instant before that
quit the field until the Turks were driven which he conceived to be his duty. It
from Herzegovina or he were dead: was evident that the men felt lost with-
and all have kept their word. The in- out his constant presence, for he had not
surrection became a war; the voivoda been with us long before little squads
was unluckily divested of his command followed him from the village and tried
by the tyrannical action of the Austrian in a hundred ways to attract his atten-
government officials, who perhaps feared tion. When his hour's talk was finished
that the Slavs in Austrian territory he saluted our whole party with that dig-
might be urged to imprudent interven- nified and friendly kiss upon both cheeks
tion in Turkish affairs by the influence which is so universal a form of salutation
of his splendid example; hut neither in Servia and in many of the adjacent
Peko nor any of the other chiefs, nor any provinces. We
bade him good-by, and
humblest Herzegovinan. will ever forget fell to scrambling Ragusa-ward over the
that to the voivoda Ljubibratic, the leader rocks. At a descent in the path we
and master, was the first great movement turned, and saw him still standing with his
for freedom in Herzegovina due. eyes fixed upon us. He waved his hand ;
Noon came, and the insurgents pre- we responded with shouts, then descended
pared to break camp. We set out upon iuto the valley, and saw him no more.
6S» EUROPE IN STULIM AND CALM.
CHAPTER SEVENTY-EN J I IT.
The Montenegrins. — Tlie Inhabitants of the Black Mountain. An Unconqncrcd Race. — Among the
Rocks. —
The [mplacable Enemies of the Turks. — A Y;ili:iut Litilo Army. — The Montenegrin
Women. — The lid Prince-Bishops of Montenegro.
<
SAW my first Montenegrin as I was ing trousers; on his feet were the
I leaving the pretty port of Spalatro, opantes, cowhide sandals, of his
or
on tli.' Adriatic sea, for Ragusa in Dal- unlive land, and on his head was the
inali i. i had been wandering for weeks round cap with the red top which every
among the warlike Serbs and Bosnians, Montenegrin seems to feel it his sacred
along the noble rivers whicli divide Aus- duly to wear. But 1 looked in vain for
tii i
from Turkey in Europe, and had any symptoms of ferocity or of military
seen many line specimens of the Slavic fervor in this innocent child's face, over
lace, but whenever had ventured i<>
I which the soft Adriatic breezes played
praise the manly qualities which 1 had almost caressingly. Was this, then, a
so often observed,] was alwaysansivered, representative of the dreaded mountai
" You have not seen the Montenegrins." eers whom the Turks feared as they
It was line, and I was constrained to fear to lose Paradise; of the people who
silence. Yet it did not seem to me that esteem most him who has beheaded
there could be, even in the redoubtable the greatest number of enemies in battle :
Montenegro, the • Black Mountain " of of the little band who fought the French
which such wondrous stories were told, so fiercely at the beginning of this cen-
nien superior in strength of body, in tun', and whose descendants have so
symmetry and suppleness of limb, in often since made the Mussulmans lower
heroism and patriotism combined with their standards on the plains of Grahovor
stern ferocity and sterling honesty of Was this the type for which 1 had been
purpose, to my good friends of Servia prepared by so many thrilling anecdotes
and Bosnia. [ looked forward, however, of heroic actions among the crags and
to a great surprise some day, and had along the edges of the precipices in the
awaited the appearance of the first Mon- Tsernagora? I was about to turn away,
tenegrin type with impatient curiosity. incredulously smiling, when the hoy, as
When 1 saw this type I was for a if he were conscious of having been
moment grievouslv disappointed. Just keenly observed, turned toward us hall
as the ruined walls of Diocletian's palace defiantly, and then for the first time
were fading in the horizon, ami our I noticed that the girdle which he wore
little steamer was running well out to about his waist was literally crammed
sea. my attention was called by a fellow- with weapons. An enormous yataghan,
passenger to a bo^ of fourteen or fifteen whose was incrusted with silver, and
lull
who stood among the peasants and which seemed too large for the boy to
soldiers on the lower deck. The boy was swing unless he use.! both hands, was
dressed in a white tunic ami gray How- the prominent object in this perambu-
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. G89
lating arsenal. Grouped around it were an Austrian officer who had visited the
two huge, ungainly pistols, each nearly Black Mountain announced that he had
as long as the yataghan, a dagger con- seen two thousand two hundred and
cealed in a sheath curiously inlaid with thirty-seven skeletons of Turkish soldiers
silver,and a knife such as every Dal- on the field where this "disarmament"
matian and Montenegrin invariably occurred.
carries, finding it equally convenient to He who wanders among the rocks of
thrust into his enemy's heart or to cut Montenegro readily understands the char-
the pieces of roasted kid which he eats acter of the people. The little prin-
for his supper.

As the boy turned he instinctively
placed one hand upon the hilt of his
yataghan. The gesture had nothing of
menace in it, but it was a fitting revela-
tion of the national characteristic. Alert,

vigorous, shapely, keen, the young
mountaineer's altitude at last excited
my admiration, and I finally accepted
him as the type of his race, expect-
ing nevertheless soon to encounter speci-
mens more in accordance with my earliest
ideal.
During the two days' voyage which

followed my companion entered into the
good graces of the young Montenegrin,
and found that this sublime boy was
already a noted warrior ; that he had
left his native peaks and rocks because
he wished to aid the Christians in Bosnia
against the Turks, and, having fought MONTENEGRINS ON THE WATCH.
well there, had been sent on a mission to
Trieste, whence he was then returning. cipality has without doubt a more re-
What was his mission? Ah, that was :i markable situation than any other country
secret! He shook his head and looked in the world. Travellers who have looked
when some one suggested that he

fierce down upon it from the summit of Mt.
had been sent to buy arms for the Iler- Lovchen, its dominating peak, say that
zegovinan insurgents. Once he smiled it resembles an immense petrified sea.
scornfully, and then he said in a quick, As far as the eye can reach in any direc-
tierce tone, "When we want arms we tion nothing is to be seen but vast stony
take them from the Turks." History waves and wrinkles in the black surface
certainly confirms this assertion. In of the rocks, —
waves and wrinkles
1858, during some of the many disputes which, if one were close to them, would
between Turkey and Montenegro, the prove gigantic precipices, yawning
Montenegrins fell upon an invading chasms, valleys deep and sheltered, in
army vastly superior in numbers to their which a few hardy Montenegrin women
own and disarmed it. A few weeks later watch the goats and sheep cropping the
short grasses among the stones. In this him. The struggle, the hatred, was
delicious southern climate the cloudless never greater than now, nor was Monte-
blue sky in summer arches tenderly negro ever bolder, fur behind her stands
above these frowning and terrible rocks, a power whose prudence in aiding her
these colossal walls, and one is led to against theTurk is only exceeded by its.
wonder why, instead of this oppressive firmness and the immensity of its re-
and appalling desolation, he does not sources, —
a power that is feared in
see hundreds of rich vineyards with Turkey, formidable and determined in
their purpling fruits gleaming in the sun, Russia.
or groves of olives, or lawns watered by Bosnia, Herzegovina, and Montene-
picturesque rivers, rushing seaward past gro all formed a part of the ancient
flower-strewn hanks, lint the Montene- country of the Dalmatians, which was
grin never asks himself these questions. united to the Roman empire under Tibe-
Born among the rocks, lie loves them, rius. These various territories were
and would on no conditions exchange settled, toward the middle of the seventh
them for the pleasures of fertile valleys century, by the Slavic tribes which
or fruitful hill-sides. He loves to cele- came from beyond the Carpathian moun-
brate in his songs, the charms of the tains. Had tribes been united
these
paths along the dizzy eminences where permanently, would to-day have
they
he only can tread freely ; lie compares formed one of the most powerful nations
himself to the falcon ; he is in his glory in Europe, lint up to the date of the
when his province is invaded, and he is Ottoman conquest they were generally
at liberty to fight from rock to rock, to separate and distinct. Bosnia was ruled
lie in wait for hours behind piles of by kings, Herzegovina by dukes, and
stones, to leap exultant into the very Montenegro by vladikas, or prince-
midst of his foes, brandishing his sword, bishops. The people of each province
"
and shouting " Glory to the people ! did deeds of valor, but all save Monte-
The frontiers of Montenegro have negro succumbed before the fury of the
always been uncertain. For several Ottoman sword. The mountaineers have
centuries the territory has varied in ex- for four hundred and fifty years kept the
tent according to its fortunes in war. Turk at bay, although he has succeeded
Never for a moment owning the domina- in maintaining a foothold in every one
tion of the Turks, its people have been of their kindred provinces except Dal-
constantly embroiled with them, and matia, which is protected by the Austrian
have kept such frontiers as they chose Hag.
to establish as long as they could by Montenegro is bounded on the north
force of arms. From time to time the and north-west by Herzegovina, on the
Turks have succeeded in forcing their north-east anil east by Bosnia, and on
way in then the Montenegrins have
; thr j
south-east anil east by Albania.
risen and reasserted their rights by and on the south-west by Dalmatia. In
driving out the enemy, and by cutting form its boundaries are not unlike a
off the heads of all Turks left on the rudely shaped star. It had no outlet
battle-field. The Montenegrin was and upon the Adriatic sea until after the
is cradled to the sound of songs which Russo-Turkish war, since the Austrians
tell him to hate the Turk and to kill him held the port of Cattaro, one of the
whenever and wherever he may meet loveliest spots in Southern Europe,
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. (Sill
which would have been the most practi- skeletons of boughs, he will strive in
cable port for the Montenegrins ; and vain to discover a better appellation I'm
Dnlcigno, the next best, was in the pos- such a panorama than Montenegro.
session of Turkey. The latter town, with The population of this little princi-
its surrounding district, was surrendered pality is barely one hundred and ninety
to Montenegro under pressure of the thousand ; and fully one-third of the men
great powers, in 1880. The principal are nearly always absent from home,
route to its capital among the rocks and engaged in warlike expeditions. The
crags, and arrived at only by the paths Montenegrins welcomed the Ilcrzego-
through seemingly inaccessible moun- vinan insurrection with joy, because it
tains, leads from Cattaro, which the gave them a new chance to fight and to
traveller may read) by steamer from kill Turks. They could hardly persuade
Trieste in a little more than four days. themselves to obey the injunction which
One's first impression on gazing at the their prince was compelled to serve
nicks around Cattaro is that he is dream- upon them, not to aid the insurrection
ing. Everything seems fantastic, un- by organized action in large bodies.
real, stagey one is reminded of a fairy
; They vanished across the frontier two by
scene in a spectacle at a theatre. The two. and found their way into the various
Dalmatian coast, witii its vast crags head-quarters of the insurgent chiefs,
towering skyward, touched here and there where they were received as men who
with white, which contrasts admirably would never yield to the Turk nor listen
with their arid, reddish garb of stone. to his promises. So inflamed with rage
does not prepare one for the wonders against the Moslems are the Montene-
intowhose presence he is ushered at the grins (if late years that they cannot even
" Bocca di Cattaro." hear the latter mentioned without grasp-
The name Montenegro, according to ing their weapons convulsively. At the
that amiable patrician of Cattaro, Mari- battle near Utowo, in the autumn of
ano Bolizza, who explored the country at 1875 these fiery mountaineers broke
the beginning of the seventeenth century, ranks and rushed with drawn knives
and made a report upon it to the Vene- upon the battalions of Turks. Nothing
tian republic, was given to this section could withstand them, and the Turks,
by the Turks, because its gloomy re- throwing away their guns, lied as if the
cesses were associated in theirminds foul Bend were after them.
witli so many attacks from enemies The country is divided into provinces,
whom they could never see or seize. or natrie, as they are culled, four be-
Whoever gave the land the name, its longing to Montenegro proper, and four
appropriateness cannot be questioned. to the lierda, the name given to the moun-
When the traveller crosses the lake of tainous district in the interior. Each
Scutari, in Albania, and sees before him of these provinces is subdivided into
an impenetrable amphitheatre of moun- plemena, which correspond to the can-
tains clad in most sombre colors, (if tons of Switzerland, and the plemena
rocky surfaces filled with an infinite are divided into villages. Every prov-
number of recesses where the shadows ince has a distinctly marked type of
gather, and of uplands covered in sum- inhabitant; people who live but a few
mer with thick but dark foliage, and in miles apart are radically dissimilar in
wiuter with nothing save the blackened temperament, in stature, and in methods
of thought ; and this is the most curious tiers; hut, this practice was so sternly
of the many Montenegro.
peculiarities of rebuked in 179C by one of their rulers
The finest type of the mountaineer and that it has now quite fallen into decay.
warrior is the man six feet tall, with The Turks are molested by their warlike
grave, thoughtful face, which contrasts neighbors only on occasions when some
singularly with his quick, nervous gait, new broil between the two nationalities
He generally has high cheek-bones, like has occurred. There is a deep religious
an Indian ; his eye is black and pierc- feeling among all classes ; even the
ing ; his lips are shaded by a square rudest warrior, when he arrives on the
black mustache ; there is a slight stoop hills from which he can look down to
in his shoulders, accounted for by the themonastery at Tsettinj6, will doff his
fact that he is constantly bending for- cap and with bared head will murmur
ward as lie ascends difficult heights; a prayer. In the insurgent camp in
his feet are huge, flat, and ungraceful, Herzegovina I frequently saw Monte-
made for the solid business of gripping grinswho were known to he extremely
the rocks and clinging to them. The cruel in battle entering a wayside cot-
Montenegrin of every type is by no tage with the peaceful salutation of
means devoid of tact; he is artful in " God be with you !" or with the words,
deception when dealing with an enemy ; "By my God, by thy God!" The
fond of ambush and stratagem; cruel, effusive manners
Slavic prevail among
sanguinary, and unappeasable in re- these rough men. They kiss when they
venge; enthusiastic in his friendships; meet, and part; they hold each other
not given to sudden anger, but slow to clasped in last embrace for a. moment,
repent of wrath, even though he may be then they separate gravely and deco-
in the wrong. lie is probabh the most rously. The strange]- among them is
agile human being on the soil of treated with the same cordiality, unless
Europe. He can go anywhere that the he manifest, a disposition to resent it.
chamois can. The goats sometimes The Montenegrins have frequently

hesitate to follow their Montenegrin been accused of slavery to superstition ;
shepherds when there is a dangerous but this is a slander. There are some
pass to be Every inhabitant
crossed. few remnants of superstitious practices
of the man, woman, or
principality, among them, but these are fast, fading
child, possesses the most extraordinary out. They are far too healthy and vig-
power of enduring hunger and thirst. orous beings to become the prey of any
The men will march for days among the absurdities. Their hearing is wonder-
rocks, eating nothing hut coarse bread fully line ; their sight is so acute one
that,
made from hitter routs, and now and fancies them boasting when they tell him
then descending into the valleys to taste how far they can see. Their accuracy
the brackish water in the pools. He of aim is remarkable. During the insur-
wdio cannot, endure tremendous fatigue rection of 1869 the 1
Austrian soldiers
is looked upon as worthlessMontene- in attempted to coerce some of the moun-
gro; the women frown upon him, and taineers near Cattaro into obedience to
his fellow-men abhor him. During the the conscription laws. The riflemen of the
last century the warriors now and then insurgents shot, into the loop-holes of a
degenerated into banditti, and some- fortress which they were besieging, anil
times made tierce raids along the fron- did it with such precision that no Aus-
trian soldier could maintain his position warfare arc concentrated. The army
near the embrasures. The Montengrin has a general-in-ehief, known as the voi-
rarely misses his aim, and when he does voda, and other voivodas hold ranks cor-
he considers it a personal dishonor, which responding to those of division and briga-
can only be wiped out by some glorious dier generals. The Montenegrin woman
deed. is iii many respects an object of pity to
The popes or priests of the reek ( ! the travellers who pass through the
Church, to which the Montenegrins ad- strange little principality; but there is no
here, arc fully as warlike, as their pa- woman in the country who would not be
rishioners. Half a dozen of them are grievously offended at any show of sym-
prominent among the leaders in the Her- pathy. To work incessantly and to suf-
zegovinan insurrection. They rejoice fer is the destiny of tin' women of this
in the deeds which one would imagine race. They welcomed info
are not even
their religionwould compel (hem to re- the world a Montenegrin
: father, when
prove. At night they gather around asked by his neighbor what the sex of
them the young and old men. and with his new-born child is, answers, "God
musical voices, although to a monotonous pardon me! it is a girl;" sometimes he

chant, they recite the valorous deeds of says, " It is a serpent, *' which is a poeti-
their ancestors,and do not forget those cal manner of expressing his regret at,
which they have done themselves. They the birth of a daughter. The girl grows
love to point to the trophies which they up neglected, and often cursed ; she
have taken from the dead bodies of their carries fagots of wood on her head, in
enemies, and to recount the slaughter order that she may earn a few coins with
necessary to secure them. At Tsettinjc which to buy arms for her brothers.
there is a priest who was a brave guerilla She has no youth; at twenty-live she
chieftain in one of the recent wars. seems already old. She is married
Many a Turk has he sent to the other young, and bears and cares for her chil-
world ; and he is very proud of it. On dren while supporting labor in the fields
the breast of his robe are sewn a dozen which would be hard even for strong
decorations which he has received for men. She trembles before her father,
deeds of valor. Nothing is more com- her brother, her husband she only ;
mon than to see a child of twelve or awakens to freedom and independence of

thirteen who has already been in a action when excited by the noise of the
dozen battles, and who bears as many combat, to which she frequently follows
scars on his body. the warriors. She luges them on, and
The formation of a regular military loads their guns, and dresses their
system in .Montenegro has been of great wounds. The Montenegrin woman is
service in preventing many jealousies rarely beautiful of feature, and the coarse
and avoiding numerous bloody feuds. work which she performs soon ruins her
There are at present two strong divisions form. Her virtue is beyond reproach ;
of ten thousand men, each under the intrigues are unknown in Montenegro,
command of the prince, and armed with and gallantry would find a sharp reproof
excellent modern weapons. In this val- at the point of a yataghan. The women
iant little body there is a chance for pro- wander unattended wherever hey please I
motion, and the genius and skill which throughout the country ; for while a
have hitherto been wasted in desultory Montenegrin warrior would never think
of relieving a woman from the heavy courngc and his prowess in front of the
burden of fagots or provisions which she enemy.
may l>e fainting under, and while he may, This overworked and much-abused
perhaps, rail at her for her weakness, he creature lias one gracious accomplish-
would not by word or deed oiler her rnent: the Montenegrin woman is ex-
file slightest, insult. The woman i ; ccedingly expert in embroideries, and
almost servile with regard to her bus- they are a prominent feature of the
baud ; if she sees him eomiiig along the national costume. The women work at
road, she turns off , or passes him rapidly, them when they are walking along the
that he may not be compelled to recog- roads bearing upon their heads burdens
nizc her. Should the warrior be seen which seem heavy enough to crush a
wasting his time in loitering by his wife's pack-horse.
side, he would be subjected to reproach White is the national color, and the
from the elders in the village. A few very height of Montenegrin elegance is
years since one could not have found a white tunic embroidered with gold. A
in the whole of Montenegro one woman garment of this kind sometimes costs
knowing how to read or write latterly ; more than 8300. The ordinary costume
some tew schools, to which women have of the warrior consists of a tunic de-
access, have been established. seending to the knee and confined at the
The duties of hospitality all fall upon waist by a girdle a huge waistcoat, the
;
the woman. It who unlaces the

is she top of shows above the loose
which
1 ts of the stranger when he arrives, tunic, and is generally embroidered in
and who washes his feet, who serves at gold or studded with precious stones;
the table, and holds the flaming pine- and trousers of the Turkish pattern,
knot by which the others sec to eat. made of blue cloth, and knotted below
The husband does not even notice his the knees by garters,
wife, unless it be to request some menial The, prince and one or two other high
service of her. dignitaries wear a cloak of red cloth,
It is a wonder Montenegrin babies very rich and graceful, over all the other
ever live through the severe course of garments. Every warrior wears a small
swaddling which they undergo from their girdle, called the kulcm, which is made
earliest day until they are weaned. They of leather or red morocco, and is divided
arc strapped to boards and slung oyer into compartments intended for pistols,
the backs of their mothers, and thus, daggers, and yataghan. Every boy
winter and summer, they make long wears one from earliest childhood, but
journeys in the mountains and among until he can be trusted with a pistol is
the rocks. allowed to carry only such innocent play-

When the husband falls ill it is not the things as and small sword.
a dagger
wife who cares for him, but his parents. The strouka garment common too
is a
Etiquette demands that- the wife should both sexes. It, is a broad and long
appear indifferent to his condition, and woollen scarf with tassellcd ends, some-
should attend to her duties in house and what, resembling the blanket worn in
field as if he were in no danger. But Southern Spain, and is woven by the old
when he dies she is expected to burst, women who can no longer bring wood
into loud lamentations, and in all the from the mountains. This blanket is the
country round sing the praises of his Montenegrin's only protection from wind
EUROPE I.V STORM AND CALM. (W5
or rain or biting cold ; and a local prov- bovo ; that the black border denotes the
erb says, "Rain or shine, take your veil mourning extended over the
of
strouka with yon: yon can sleep under whole section that the golden disk
;
it or on it." The opanJci, or hide slip- shown emerging from this funereal crape,
per, which the mountaineers, men and and surrounded with an aureole, is the
women, wear, clumsy in shape, but
is Montenegrin sun rising on a bloody
wonderfully convenient for rock-climb- horizon, but rising to warm into new
ing. The Austrian soldiers in the moun- life with its generous rays a regenerate
tains near Cattaro endeavored to adopt and liberated race. No warrior of t ho
the opanMs for chasing insurgents, but " Black Mountain" country would wear
they discovered that it requires long- any other head covering than this faipa
practice to learn how to walk in them. for any consideration whatever.
They are tied on with a multitude of In the old days the Montenegrin vla-
strings, and it isa work of art to learn dikas, or prince-bishops, had entire pos-
how to slip them off speedily. session of the civil, military, and re-
The costume of the women is not un- ligious power of the country, and the
graceful. The chief article is the faint, populations, bound to them by mysteri-
a long basque without sleeves, which ous reverence, were passionately devoted
descends to the knee. If the family be to their service. Peter II. was the last
rich, this gown is sometimes embroid- of the vladikas. lie died in 1851, after
ered with costly stuffs. Hut, whether a singularly brilliant and satisfactory
a woman be rich or poor, she usually career, during which he did much to
wears an apron made of silk or of some soften manners of his people.
the In
glistening material, and an ample girdle his early youth he had been a shepherd,
surmounted with sin object very much but he was subsequently educated in
like an enormous door-plate. Into this Russia. Some years before his death
girdle she thrusts all her sewing mate- lie showed rare poetical taste, and on
rials, her dagger, her jewels, and such the different occasionswhen lie visited
of her broideries as she does not wish European capitals he was recognized as
for the moment to display. Until the a man of marked talent in literature.
day of their marriage the women wear Dying, he designated his nephew I)a-
round caps exactly like those worn by nilo to succeed him. When Danilo came
the men. From that moment they always to the throne he announced his inten-
appear in public wearing themarama, a tion of relinquishing the old theocratic
v;ist kerchief of silk or wool, which power with which his family had been
completely conceals their hair and falls invested for a century and a half, and
down to the waist, covering the shoul- that he would content himself with reign-
ders and giving the wearer the look of ing as civil and military chief of the
a nun. country. The senate ratified this deter-
The kapa, which the male Montene- mination, the Russian Government lent
grin wears as his head covering, has its its powerful support to the new pro-
legend, poetic and sanguinary. The gramme, and Montenegro became an
warrior says that the red ground of the absolute monarchy under the hereditary
cap signifies the lake of blood into which government of a prince. Danilo's as-
the country has been plunged ever since sassination at Cattaro, in August of 800, 1
the great and disastrous battle of Kos- by a returned exile, brought to the throne
69G EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
the present prince, Nicholas I., a man showed great skill in managing his res-
of rare talents, fine sympathies, and <
-
tive people and in responding smoothly
sideralile tact in politics. All who have to the irritating demands of the Turkish
seen this prince in his simple palace envoys, wl nlv sought an excuse for
among the rocks at Tsettinjd unite in invading his territory. The forts which
according him generous praise. In the Turkey is allowed to maintain on the
troublous moments of the autumn of Montenegrin holder are a perpetual
1878, when imprudent action on the part menace to the independence of the little
of Montenegro might have precipitated principality, and are the cause of dozens
all Europe in war, Prince Nicholas of skirmishes yearly.
EUROPE IN ST OHM AND CALM. 697
CHAPTER SEVENTY-NINE.
Prince Nicholas of Montenegro. -The Outpost of Russia. — The Montenegrin Capital. — Battle with the
Turks. — Legends of Tsernagora.
PRINCE Nicholas has evidently a policy, and the people are quite content
higher opinion of women than that in those his will should be the law.
most of his countrymen have, for when The route from Cattaro to Tsettinje
he visited Russia, in 1869, he left the runs through one of the prettiest valleys
regency in the hands of Milena Niko- in Montenegro, —a valley which gives
lawa, his wife, a lady of much beauty its name to the reigning dynasty, —
and raia character. The visit of the the Niegroch. But after the charms of
prince to St. Petersburg was not without Cattaro even the Niegroch seems savage
political significance. From that time and forbidding. Cattaro has grand old
may lie said to date the public ac- villas with red roofs, terraces loaded
knowledgment of (he species of pro- with luxuriant blossoms, eminences
tectorate which Russia has established crowned with poplars and acacias.
over Montenegro. Russia has made of Out of the labyrinth of crooked but,
this little star-shaped province hevavant- cleanly streets peer little gardens whose
poste in the was even said
East. It rows of shrubs and (lowering plants are
jestingly in Austria that Mr. Alexan- fantastically trimmed. Over dingy and
dre Yonine, the Russian consul at Ra- massive balconies huge ancient vines
gnsa, the chief Dalmatian town near the wind and turn in loving and clinging
"Black Mountain," was the real prince profusion and confusion. At each step
of Montenegro, because through him it one comes upon half-ruined memorials
was believed that the Russian government of Byzantine architecture; a sculptured
directed the policy which, with the aid of balustrade is seen through a grove of
Montenegro and Montenegrin enthusi- orange trees; among the citrons one
asm, it hopes to carry out. By sup- can dimly discern capitals of mouldering
porting Prince Nicholas in his mountain pillars, porticoes, artistic bits of iron
home in his battles against the Turks, and steel decoration fastened upon the
and by aiding Prince Milan in Servia to fronts of mansions, all the chaste and
continue rebellious. Russia was steadily elegant remnants of a vanished past.
preparing the downfall of the Turkish Here one looks shuddcringly for the shades
power in Europe and the reuniting of of the Saracens who held the old town in
all the long-separated branches of the (he ninth century, long after the Romans
Serbo-Slavic family. — who esteemed it one of their best ports
The prince voluntarily abdicated many when they held Dalmatia in their grip
of his rights as absolute monarch in — had been forgotten. Many masters
1868, and the Montenegrin senate now have held Cattaro since then ; the Vene-
has very large powers. But the prince tians left their mark upon it ; the kings
is still all powerful in matters of foreigu of Bosnia thought it one of their best
G93 EUROm IN STORM AND CALM.
strongholds; then tlio Venetians took it the heat beats down with terrific effect.
again, and kept it for nearly four hun- There is no comfort gleam of (hoin the
dred years, making it one of the centres distant blue Above, the crags
sea.
nf tlii- arts, the learning, and the mili- tower, pitiless and gigantic. The path
tary genius of the period. From IT'.iT or staircase winds round and round,
until 1808 Cattaro was successively never continuing more than a, few yards
Austrian, French, Russian, French in a straight line. The very monotony of
again, and, finally, came once in 1814, those abrupt turns becomes inexpres-
mure under Austrian domination. The sibly wearisome. Sure-footed mules,
population of the surrounding district driven by women or children, and loaded
has never liked the Austrians, and rarely with wool, with fish, or with grain, often
misses an occasion to testify its repug- blockade the way, and the traveller is
nance. The commerce of the town is sometimes end to contrive

at his wits'
with the Montenegrins, and so are the an escape from some abyss into which
sympathies of its merchants. It is a the crowding caravans seem about to
brave little community,
fortress-ridden urge him. If one escapes without seri-
which the rocks seem determined to ous adventure in his journey up this
push oil' into the sea, but which main- tortuous path, he finds himself presently
tains its hold, and serenely survives entering upon a wider but still more
earthquakes, revolutions, and changes rocky route, and at last reaches the
of government. Were it not for the valley of Niegroch, in a little nook of
few stiff and awkward soldiers whom which Prince Nicholas was born, and
one sees strutting about the entry of the where, in a quaint villa, erected some
port one could with difficulty persuade years since, the royal family passes
himself that Cattaro is an Austrian some portion of every summer.
town, for the Montenegrin men and 'I'he journey from Cattaro to Tsettinjd
women are everywhere to be seen in the occupies live hours of active climbing ;
narrow streets. Every mountaineer, as and if the .Montenegrin guide is in a

he arrives at the dividing line between communicative mood, and persists in
the city and the country, is compelled to telling you. in his poetical and rich
deposit his arms with a frontier guard, Serbo-Slavie language, the legend of
when he is going into Austria. This he every stone which lies by the way, a
considers a great indignity, and it is the whole day may be readily consumed.
source of frequent recriminations, and Tsettinje is a little village composed of
sometimes of bloody quarrels. In the two streets among the rocks. There
market, on the outskirts of the town, the an' sixty or seventy small white cot-
hardy Montenegrin is allowed to bear tages, tin' interiors of which are by no

his weapons about with him. means so invitingly clean as one could
The traveller leaves the stony hemi- desire. One
two of the residences
or
cycle of the port, the charms of Cattaro, perhaps merit the name of mansions;
and enters upon a zigzag route dug in these served in past days as the habita-
the side of the locks when he departs tions cf princes. The hall occupied by
for Tsettinje. The prudent wanderer the present Montenegrin senate, the
will start before dawn for as soon as ; government printing office, the arsenal,
the sun develops its fervor the ascent is the treasury, and the '-archives" is
almost perilous. On the arid surface small, and quite devoid of any architect-
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. <>99
ural pretensions. Once upon a time it cloister which had been founded in 1484,
was the royal palace and because a ; but had been much injured in serving
billiard table was brought to it on the alternately as a fortress against the
backs of men from Cattaro, the people Turks and a plaything for violent earth-
of the neighborhood to this day call it quakes. The monastery of to-day serves
Bigliardo. The "palace" at present as a home of the vladika and the archi-
occupied by Prince Nicholas is a very mandrite, the chief of the orthodox reli-
plain, one-story edifice. It once pos- gion professed according to the Greek
sessed a roof covered with lead, but rite throughout Montenegro, and also as
there came a time when
were bullets a prison for women who need correction.
much needed, and the lead was wrenched Prince Nicholas now and then gives a
off and used to kill Turks with. This banquet to his warriors modest
in his
w;is but one of many free-will offerings palace, and the spectacle on such occa-
from the prince to his people for the sions is unique in the extreme. From
common safety. Under a great tree in all points in the little principality come
the centre of the village the warriors tall,gaunt men, clad in their gala cos-
meet when rumors of battle are in the tumes, and wearing cuirasses of silver
air. They sit in a semi-circle, smoke or steel. Gathered round the banquet
much, talk little, decide quickly, and table, they are decorous and diffident,
then go forth to slaughter. If they saying but little until the prince leads
need any inspiration they have only to them on to tell of their exploits. Late
turn their gaze in the direction of the at night, after the princely festivities are
" Turks' Tower," a small, round edifice over, the warriors gather in a circle
on a high rock which overlooks the around a little fire in a cottage, and
town. On this tower it has been from sing songs filled with memories of com-
time immemorial the custom to nail the bat.
heads of decapitated enemies. The The prince is cool, hardy, and resolute
prince who preceded Nicholas sup- in the midst of danger. He narrowly
pressed this public barbarism; but escaped assassination at the hands of
neither he nor his successor will ever a Turk some years ago, but he wanders
succeed in preventing the Montenegrin about the country unprotected whenever
who has slain a Turk
from in battle he with no fear of a second
pleases,
cutting off his head. Unimpeachable attempt. His conduct during the disas-
witnesses assert that fifty-five Turkish trous day when Omar Pacha in 1802 suc-
heads were brought away from the tight ceeded in gaining a temporary victory
at Utowo and Peko the Terrible, who
; over the Montenegrins was in the high-
was one. of the most active of the est degree manly and wise. His father,
Montenegrin agents in the Ilerzegovinan Mirko, who was a terrible scourge to the
insurrection, himself told me that the Turks, and who was aiding in the com-
practice of dissecting an enemy still pre- plete militarydevelopment of the princi-
vails among his people. pality, was ordered by a treaty signed
The venerable monastery of Tset- at Scutari between Omar Pacha and the
tinj<j is the only picturesque building in Montenegrins, at the conclusion of the
the whole neighborhood. It was erected campaign of 18G2, to be expelled from
at the close of the fifteenth century by the country. But although the Turks
one of the vladikas, near the site of a were in a condition to force a treaty upon
—
700 EUROI'K IN STORM AND CALM.
the Montenegrins, they could not sum- three hours' march from Tsettinje, not
mon force enougb to make them accept far from the Albanian frontier of Mon-
its odious conditions, and Mirko the tenegro. Near it is a manufactory of
Valiant remained among his native arms, recently established by the govern-
mountains. Prince Nicholas rises often ment. Tin- com cut at Rieka was once
at dawn, ami wanders, attended by a very famous ; in the sixteenth century
small suite, through the streets of Tset- the vladikas, who were driven out of
tinje, hearing 1 1 it- complaints of the poor other fortress-convents by the Turks,
and the oppressed and the reports of took refuge there, and made it one of
his warriors. He enters the senate the centres of the Slavic learning of
house and listens to the noisy discus- the time. Rieka has nothing to recom-
sions of the sixteen conscript fathers, mend it to attention nowadays save an
discussions always accompanied by the occasional which the warriors
fair, to
clang of anus. Each senator has his and maidens come to buy the Albanian
heavy weapons upon the desk before
laid jewelry and Turkish pistols and yata-
him, but keeps his pistols and daggers ghans.
in his girdle. Each one smokes a long The monastery of Ostrog is one of the
pipe furiously dining the session, and curiosities Montenegro, and is an
of
when speaking emphasizes his many edilice never mentioned in the Black
gestures with it. The prince sometimes Mountain without reverence. High up
makes an address there, and is not sur- among the rocks stand two plain stone
prised now and then to find himself flatly structures, which form a specie-, of double
contradicted. He visits the prisons, the monastery. In one of them the valiant
courts, often acts as counsel for a crim- father of the present prince successfully
inal who has no defender, gives advice held at bay a. small Turkish army with
to the ignorant, and even settles family fourteen men in 1n.">7. The convent is a
disputes. If he gets hungry while prom- place of pilgrimage for all the orthodox
enading, he has only to return to the populations of Montenegro, Bosnia, Al-
senate house, where the fathers daily bania, Herzegovina, and Dalmatia and ;
roast a sheep whole, and partake of thc- the peasants sometimes endure incredi-
smoking flesh while slill continuing U> ble hardships in braving the storms
discuss affairs of stale. in those terrible mountain ways that
In winter the snows rest heavily upon they may say their prayers at the doors
the huge crags, and in the deep) valleys of Ostrog. All the rocks round about
the sometimes suffer for food.
flocks are memorials of bloody battles between
But the snows do not hinder the moun- Turks and Christians. Ostrog is the
taineers from making long journeys in seat of one of the excellent schools
pursuit of game or the Turkish soldier; which the Montenegrin government, with
indeed, the women are often alone the the aid of Russia and Servia, founded
whole winter-time. When the husbands several years ago. In the savage solitude
depart they do not tell their wives where .•:'
Ostrog lives the venerable Ljubitch,
they are going, and no Montenegrin the archimandrite, who teaches theology,
woman would be brave enough to ask grammar, history, and science to the
her lord and master any indiscreet ques- pupils sent him, and waits patiently for
tions. them to manifest their "vocation.'' Some
Rieka is a pretty little town, about of them don the priestly gown, but none
ever put the weapons which

aside ravages of war, constantly increases,
they haveworn from earliest child- and her political importance is to-day of
hood. Climbing to the summit of Mt. a very high rank, since a declaration of
Lovehen, near Tsettinje, where the Prince Nicholas in the stony streets of
tomb of Peter II., the distinguished Tsettinje' may cause the downfall of half-
vladika, stands out, a landmark seen a-dozen thrones. It is probable that the
from miles around*, against the clear blue little country will be permitted to keep
of the sky, and looking down over the her autonomy inviolate, whatever ma)*
rugged, rocky country stretching away be the other results of the coming events
to the sea, the traveller reflects with in which her warriors will take a promi-
astonishment upon the energy and will nent part. She is universally respected
which have builtup a state, and pro- because of her own strength and inde-
tected it for more than four centuries pendence, — doubly at this moment be-
enemy in such sur-
against a formidable cause of the mysterious support which
roundings. Montenegro yearly becomes she receives from that Russia which has
more and more important to the Euro- been her occasional ally since the days
pean family ; her population, despite the of Peter the Great.
7U2 EUROPE JN STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER EIGHTY.
Danubian Days. — Hungarians and Slavs. — A Turkish Fortress. —The Footprints of Trajan. — Orsova
the — Gypsies. — Animals in the East. — Lower Hungary and
Fair. Peculiar Features.- its
Wayside Inns Along the Danube. — The Harvesters Coming Home Eventide. — Gypsies at at
Drcnkova. — Through (be Iron Gates.
ADA-KALE is a Turkish fortress Mussulman in the place could have been

which seems to spring directly captured in twenty minutes.
I passed
from the bosom of the Danube, :it :i by there one morning on the road from
point where three curious and quarrel- Orsova, on the frontier of Hungary, to
some races come into contact, and where Bucharest, and was somewhat amused to
the Ottoman thought it necessary to see an elderly Turk seated in a small
have a foothold even in times of pro- boat near the Roumanian bank fishing.
found peace. To the traveller from Behind him were two soldiers, who
Western Europe no spectacle on the way served as oarsmen, and rowed him gently
to Constantinople was so impressive, be- from point to point when he gave the
fore the war of 1877, as this ancient and signal. Scarcely six hundred feet from
picturesque fortification, suddenly af- him stood a Wallachian sentry, watch-
fronting the vision with its odd walls, ing his movements in lazy, indifferent
its minarets, its red-capped sentries, and fashion. And was at the moment
this
the yellow sinister faces peering from when tin' Turks were bombarding Kalafat
balconies suspended above the current. in Roumania from Widdin on the Bulga-
It was the fust glimpse of tin' Orient rian side of the Danube! Such a spec-
which one obtained: it appropriately tacle could be witnessed nowhere save
introduced one to a domain which is gov- in this land. " where it is always after-
erned by sword and gun; and it was a noon," where people at times seem to
pretty spot of color in the midst of the suspend respiration because they an' too
severe and rather solemn scenery of the idle to breathe, and where even a dog-
Danubian stream. Ada-Kale is to be will protest if you ask him to move
razed to the water's edge, — s_> at least quickly out of your path. The old Turk
the treaty between Russia ami Turkey doubtless fished in silence and calm until
has ordained. — and the Servian moun- the end of the war. for I never heard of
taineers will no longer see the crescent the removal of either himself or his com-
flag flying within rifle-shot of the crags panions.
from which, by their heroic devotion in The journeys by river and by rail from
unequal battle, they long ago banished Lower Roumania to the romantic and
it. broken country surrounding Orsova are
The. Turks occupying this fortress extremely interesting. The Danube
during the recent war evidently relied stretches of shimmering water among the
upon fate lor their protection, for the reedy lowlands —
where the only sign of
walls of Ada-Kale are within a stone's life is a quaint craft painted in gaudy
throw of the Roumanian shore, and every colors becalmed in some nook, or a
—
guard-house built on piles driven into the appear to be merely animals gifted with
mnd — are perhaps a trifle monotonous, speech. The women wear almost no
but one has only to turn from them to clothing; their matted hair drops about
the people who eorac on board the their shapely shoulders as they toil
steamer to have a rich fund of enjoy- at their burden, singing meanwhile some
ment. Nowhere arc types so abundant merry chorus. Little tenderness is be-
and various as on the routes of travel stowed on these creatures, and it vvas not
between Bucharest and
Rustchuk, or Pesth and
Belgrade. Every com-
plexion, an extraordinary
piquancy and variety of
costume, and a bewilder-
ing array of languages
and dialects are set before
the careful observer. As
for myself, found a I
special enchantment in the

scenery of the Danube,
in the lonely inlets, the
wildernesses of young
shoots in the marshes, the
flights of aquatic birds as
the sound of the steamer
was heard, the long
tongues of land on which
the water-buffaloes lay
huddled in stupid con-
tent, the tiny hummocks,
where villages of wattled THE RUSSIAN'S CROSSING
hovels were assembled. THE DANUBE IN FRONT
OK SISTOVA.
The Bulgarian shore
stands out in bold relief.
Sistova, from the river, is without a slight twinge of

positively beautiful, but the nerves that T saw the
the now historical huge, burl}' master of the
Simnitza seems only a mud-flat. At boat's crew now and then bestow a ring-
night the boats touch upon the Rouma- ing slap with his open hand upon the
nian side for fuel, — the Turks have- neck or cheek of one of the poor women
always been too lazy and vicious to de- who stumbled with her load, or who
velop the splendid mineral resources of halted for a moment to indulge in abuse
Bulgaria, — and the stout peasants and of a comrade. As the boat moved away.
their wives trundle thousands of barrows these people, dancing about the heaps of
of coal along the swinging planks. Here coal in the torchlight, looked not unlike
is raw life, lusty, full of rude beauty, demons disporting in some gruesome
but utterly iucult. The men and women nook of enchanted laud. When thev
were gypsies they did not need the aid of stant hold his own among Christians
the torches : they were sufficiently de- where he has no military advantage.
moniacal without artificial aid. But at Orsova, although the red fez and
Kalafat and Turnu-Severinu are small voluminous trousers are rarely seen, the
towns which would never have hern influence of Turkey is keenly felt. It is
much heard of had they not been in the in these remote regions of Hungary that
region visited by the war. Turnu-Sev- the real rage against Russia and the
erinu is noted, however, as the point burning enthusiasm and sympathy for
where Severinus once built a mighty the Turks were most openly expressed.
tower; and notfarfrom the little hamlet Every cottage in the neighborhood is
may still be seen the ruins of Trajan's filled with crude pictures representing
immemorial bridge. Where the >anube is 1 events of the Hungarian revolution ; and
twelve hundred yards wide and nearly the peasants, as they look upon those re-
twenty feet deep Apollodorus of Damas- minders of perturbed times, reflect that
cus did not hesitate, at Trajan's com- the Russians were instrumental in pre-
mand, to undertake, the construction of venting the accomplishment of their
a bridge with twenty stone and wooden dearest wishes. Here the Hungarian is
arches. He bllilded well, for one or two eminently patriotic ; he endeavors as
of the stone piers remain perfect,
still much as possible to forget that he and
after a lapse of sixteen centuries, and his arcbound to the empire of Austria,
eleven of them, more or less ruined, are and he speaks of the German and the
yet visible at low water. Apollodorus Slav, who are his fellow -subjects, with
was a man of genius, as his oilier work, a sneer The people whom one encoun-
the Trajan Column, proudly standing in ters in that corner of Hungary profess
Rome, amply testifies. No doubt he a dense ignorance of the German lan-
was richly rewarded by Trajan for con- guage, but if pressed can speak it glibly
structing a work which, flanked as it- enough. I won an angry frown anil an
was by noble fortifications, bound the unpleasant remark from an innkeeper
newly captured Dacian colony to the because I did not know that Austrian
Roman empire. What mighty men were postage-stamps are not good in Hungary.
these Romans, who carved their way Such melancholy ignorance of the sim-
along the Danube banks, hewing mads plest details of existence seemed to my
and levelling mountains at the same host meet subject for reproach
time that they engaged the savages of Orsova became an important point as
the locality in daily battle ! There soon as the Turks and Russians were at
were indeed giants in those days. war. The peasants of the liaitat staled
When Ada-Kale is passed, and pretty as they saw long lines of travellers leav-
Orsova, lying in slumbrous quiet at the ing the steamers which had come from
foot of noble mountains, is reached, the Pesth and Hazias, and invading the
List trace of Turkish domination is left two .small inns, usually more than
behind. In future years, if the treaty half empty. Englishmen, Russians,
of San Stefano holds, there will be little Austrian officers sent down to keep care-
evidence of ( Ittoman lack of civilization ful watch upon the land, French and
anywhere on the Danube, for the forts Prussian, Swiss and Belgian military
of the Turks will gradually disappear, attachis and couriers, journalists, artists,
and the Mussulman cannot for an in- amateur army-followers, crowded the
EUROPE J.Y STORM AND CALM. 70.")
two long streets and exhausted the mar- looked out, on a fresh April morning,
ket. Next came a hungry and thirsty across a delicious valley tilled with pretty
mob of refugees from Widdin, — .lews, farms and white cottages, and orna-
Greeks, and gypsies, —
and these prom- mented by long rows of shapely poplars.
enaded their variegated misery on the Turning to the right 1 saw Servia's bar-
river banks from sunrise until sunset. riers, shutting in from the cold winds
Then out from Roumanian land poured the fat lands of the interior, vast hill-
thousands of wretched peasants, bare- sides dotted from point to point with
footed, bare-headed, dying of starvation, peaceful villages, iu the midst of which
fleeing from Turkish invasion, which white churches with slender spires arose,
happily never assumed large propor- and to the left the irregular line of the
tions. These poor people .slept on the Roumanian peaks stood up, jagged and
ground, content with the shelter of house broken, against the horizon. Out from
walls they subsisted on unripe fruits,
; Orsova runs a rude highway into the
and that unfailing fund of mild tobacco rocky and savage back-country. The
which every male being in all those celebrated baths of Mehadia, the " hot
countries invariably manages to secure. springs" of the Austro-Hungarian em-
"Walking abroad in Orsova was no easy pire, are yearly frequented by three or
task, for one was constantly compelled four thousand sufferers, who come from
to step over these poor fugitives, who the European capitals to Temesvar, and
packed themselves into the sand at noon- are thence trundled iu diligences to the
day, and managed for a few hours be- water-cure. But the railway is pene-
fore the cool eveniug breezes came to trating even this far-off where
land,
forget their miseries. The vast fleet of ouce brigands delighted to wander, and
river steamers belonging to the Austrian Temesvar and Bucharest are now bound
company was laid up at Orsova, and together by a daily "through-service"
dozens of captains, conversing in the as regular as that between Pesth and
liquid Slav, or the graceful Italian, or Vienna.
guttural German, were forever seated I sat one morning on the balcony of
about the doors of the little cafis, smok- the diminutive inn known as " The
ing lung cigars and quaffing beakers of Hungarian Crown," watching the sun-
the potent white wine produced in Aus- beams on the broad current of the
trian vineyards. Danube and listening to the ripple, the
Opposite Orsova lie the Servian moun- plash and the gurgle of the swollen stream
,
tains, bold, majestic, inspiring. Their as it rushed impetuously against the

noble forests and the deep ravines be- banks. A group of Servians, in canoes
tween them are exquisite in color when light and swift as those of Indians, had
the sun flashes along their sides. A few made their way across the river and were
miles below the point where the Hun- struggling vigorously to present the cur-
garian and Roumanian territories meet rent from carrying them below a favor-
the mountainous region declines into able landing-place. These tall, slender
foot-hills, and then to an uninteresting men, with bronzed faces and gleaming
plain. The Orsovan dell is the culminat- eyes, with their round skull-caps, their
ing point of all the beauty and grandeur gaudy jackets, and ornamental gaiters,
of the Danubian hills. From one emi- bore no small resemblance at a distance to
nence richly laden with vineyards I certain of our North American red-skius.
rm; ECRorr rx storm and cai v.
Each 111:111 had a lt knife in his belt,

1 »
> 1 1 tions. Then tremendous echoes awoke
and from experience can say that a 1 among the hills. Peal after peal echoed
Servian knife is in itself a complete tool- and reechoed until
it seemed as if the
chest. With its uno tough and keen cliffs must crack and crumble. Sheets
blade one may skin a sheep, file a saw, of rain were blown by the mischievous
split wood, mend a wagon, defend one's winds, now full upon the unhappy fugi-
self vigorously, if need be, make a but- tives, or now descended with seemingly
ton-hole, and eat one's breakfast. No crushiug force on the Servians in their
Servian who adheres to the ancient dancing canoes. Then came vivid light-
costume would consider himself dressed ning, brilliant and instant glances of
unless the crooked knife hung from his electricity, disclosing the forests and
girdle. Although the country side along hills for a moment, then seeming bj
the Danube is rough, and travellers are their quick departure to render the ob-
said to need protection among the Servian 31 iv more painful than before. The
hills. I could not discover that the in- fiery darts were hurled by do/ens upon
habitants wore Other weapons than these the devoted trees, and the tall and grace-
useful articles of cutlery. Yet they are ful stems were bent like reeds before
daring smugglers, and sometimes openly the rushing of the blast, told swept
defy the Hungarian authorities when through the vale, and shadows seemed
discovered. •• Ah !
" said Master Josef, to follow it. Such contrast with the lu-
the head servant of the Hungarian crown, minous, lovely, semi-tropical afternoon,
••
many a good tight have 1 seen in mid- in the dreamy restfulness of which man
stream, the boats grappled together, and beast seemed settling into lethargy,
knives flashing, and our fellows draw- was crushing. It pained and disturbed
ing their pistols. All that, too. for a the spirit. Master Josef, who never lost
few flasks of Jsegotin, which is a musty, an occasion to cross himself, and to do
red. thick wine, that Heaven would for- a few turns on a little rosary of amber
bid e ton ommend to your honorable beads, came and went in a kind of a
self and companions so long as put in 1 dazed mood while the storm was at its
the cellar the pearl dew of yonder vine- height. Just as a blow was struck
yards." pointing to the vines of Or- among the hills which seemed to make
sova. the earth quiver to its centre, the varlet
While the Servians were anxiously en- approached, and modestly inquired if
deavoring to land, and seemed to be in the "honorable society" myself and —
imminent dangerof upsetting, the roll of chance companions would visit that —
thunder was heard and a few drops very afternoon the famous chapel in
rain fell with heavy plash. Master Josef which the crown of Hungary lies buried.
forthwith began making shutters fast I glanced curiously at him. thinking that
and tying the curtains, for • now we I
iibly the had addled his
thunder
have a wind." 4110th he. And it brain. " Oh. the honorable society may
came. As by magic the Servian shore walk in sunshine all the way to the
was blotted and before me 1 eould
out. chapel at five o'clock '.
" he said, with
little save the river, which seemed an encouraging grin. "These Danube
transformed into a roaring and foaming storms come and go as quickly as a Tsi-
ocean. The refugees, the gypsies, the gane from a hen-roost. See the thun- !
Jews, tlie Greeks scampered in all direc- der has stopped its howling, and there is
not a wink of lightning. Even the rain- Around a little wdiarf hovered fifty or
drops are so few that one may almost sixty stout farmers, mounted on sturdy
walk between them." ponies, watching tin' arrival of the " ]Uer-
I returned to the balcony from whieli cui." the Servian steamer from Belgrade
the storm had driven me, and was grati- and the Sava river. The • Mercur" came
fied by the sight of the mountain side pulling valiantly forward, as uncon-
studded with pearls, which a faint glow cerned as if no whirlwind
had swept
in the sky was gently touching. The across her path, although she must have
Danube roared and foamed with mali- been in the narrow and dangerous canon
cious glee as the poor Servians were of the " Iron Gates" when the blast and
still whirled about on the water.
But die shower were most furious. On the
presently through the deep gorges, and roads leading down the mountain sides
along the sombre stream, and over the I saw long processions of squealing and
vineyards, the rocks, and the roofs of grunting swine, black, white, and gray,
humble cottages stole a warm breeze, all active and self-willed, fighting each
followed by dazzling sunlight, which other for the right of way. Before
returned in mad haste to atone for the each procession marched a swineherd
displeasure of the wind and rain. In playing on a rustic pipe, the sounds
a few moments the refugees were again from which primitive instrument seemed
afield, spreading their drenched gar- to exercise Circean enchantment upon
ments on the wooden railings and the rude Hocks. It was inexpressibly
stalking about in a condition narrowly comical to watch the masses of swine
approaching nakedness. A gypsy four after they had been enclosed in the
feet high, clad in a linen shirt, and trou- "told--." — huge tracts fenced in, and
sers so wide as to resemble petticoats, provided with shelters at the corners.
strolled thoughtlessly on the bank, sing- Each herd knew its master, and as he
ing a plaintive melody, and now and passed to and fro would salute him with
then turning brown face skyward
his a delighted squeal, whieli died away into
as if to salute The child of
the sun. a M-ries of disappointed ami cynical
mysterious ancestry, this wanderer from groans as soon as the porkers had dis-
the East, this robber of roosts, and cun- covered that no evening repast was to
ning worker in metals, possessed neither be offered them. Good fare do these
hat nor shoes naked breast and his
; his Servian swine find in the abundant pro-
unprotected arms must suffer cold at vision of acorns in the vast forests. The
night; yet lie seemed wonderfully happy. men who spend their lives in restraining
The Jews and Greeks gave him scornful the vagabond instincts of these vulgar
glances, whieli he returned with quizzi- animals may perhaps be thought a col-
cal, provoking smiles. At last he threw lection of brutal hinds; on the
but
himself down on a plank, from which contrary they are fellows of shrewd
the generous sun was rapidly drying the common sense and much dignity of feel-
rain, and, coiling up as a dog might ing. Kara-George, the terror of the
have done, he was soon asleep. Turk at the beginning of the century.
With a marine glass I could see dis- I he majestic character who won the ad-
tinctly every movement on the Servian miration of Europe, whose genius as a
shore. Close to the water's edge nestled soldier was praised by Napoleon the
a small village of neat white cottages. Great, and who freed his countrymen
from bondage, —
Kara-George was a of Servian wishes. Thus the two coun-
swineherd in the woods of the Sehau- tries are theoretically at peace and prac-
madia until the wind of the spirit fanned tically at war. While the. conflict of
his brow and called him from his simple 1877 was in progress collisions between
toil to immortalize his homely name. Servian and Hungarian were of almost
Master Josef and his fellows in < )rsova daily occurrence.
did not hate the Servians with the bitter- The Hungarian's intolerance of the
ness manifested towards the Roumani- Slav does not from unworthy
proceed
ans, vet they considered them as aliens, jealousy, but rather from an exaggerated
and as dangerous conspirators against idea of the importance of his own coun-
the public weal. •' Who knows at what try and of the evils which might befall
moment they may go over to the Rus- it if the old Serb stock began to renew its
sians?" was the constant cry. And in ancient glory. In corners of Hungary,
process of time they went; but although such as ( >rsova, the peasant imagines
Master Josef had professed the utmost that his native land the main world, is
willingness to take tip arms on such an and that the rest of Europe is an unnec-
occasion, it does not appear that, he did essary and troublesome fringe around
it, doubtless preferring, on reflection, the edges of it. There is a story of a
the quiet of his inn and his flask of white gentleman in Pesth who went, to a dealer
wine in the court-yard rather than an in maps and inquired for a globus of
excursion among the trans-Danubian Hungary, showing that he imagined it to
hills and the chances of an untoward be the whole round earth.
fate at the point of a Servian knife. It So fair were the land and the stream
is not astonishing that the two peoples after the storm that I lingered until sun-
do not understand each other, although set gazing out over river and on Servian
only a strip of water separates their hills,and did not accept Josef's invita-
frontiers for a long stretch, lor the tion to visit the chapel of the Hungarian
difference in language; and in its written crown that evening. But next morn-
form is a most effectual barrier to inter- ing before the sun was high wandered I
course. The Servians learn something alone in the direction of the Roumanian
of the Hungarians' dialects, since they and by accident came upon the
frontier,
come to till the rich lands of the lianat chapel. It is a modest structure, in a
in tin' summer season. Bulgarians and nook surrounded by tall poplars, and
Servians by thousands find employment within is a simple chapel, with Latin in-
in Hungary in summer and return home scriptions. Here the historic crown re-
when autumn sets in. But the dreams poses, now that there is no longer any
and ambitions of the two peoples have use for it at Presburg, the ancient capital.
nothing in common. Servia looks long- Here was brought by pious hands after
it
ami is anxious
ingly to Slavic unification, the troubles between Austria and Hun-
to secure for herself apredominance in gary were settled. During the revolu-
the new nation to he moulded out of the tion tie' sacred bauble was hidden by
old scattered elements. Hungary be- the command of noblemen to whom it

lieves that the consolidation of the Slavs had been confided, and the servitors
would place her in a dangerous and who concealed it at the behest of their
humiliating [position, and conspires day masters were slain, lest in an indiscreet
and night to compass exactly the reverse moment they might betray the secret.
For thousands of enthusiasts this tiny orable society" should follow the worthy
chapel is the holiest of shrines, and nobleman's example. No sooner is it
should trouble come anew upon Hungary done than postilion and guard kist?. our
in thepresent perturbed times the crown hands; which is likewise an evidence
would perhaps journey once more. that they have travelled, are well met
It seemed pitiful that the railway with every stranger and all customs, and
should ever invade this out-of-the-way know more than they say.
corner of Europe. But it was already The Romans had extrusive establish-
crawling through mountains; hun-
the ments at Mehadia. which they called
dreds of Italian laborers were putting the " Baths of Hercules," and it is in
down the shining rails in woods and glens memory of this that a statue of the good
where no sounds save the song of birds or giant stands in the square of the little
the carol of the infrequent passer-by had town. Scattered through the hills, many
theretofore been heard. For the present, inscriptions to Hercules, to Mercury,
however, the old-fashioned, comfortless and Venus have been found during
to
diligence keeps the roads ; the berib- the ages. The villages on the road
boned postilion winds his merry horn, thither are few and far between, and are
anil as the afternoon sun is getting low inhabited by peasants decidedly Dacian
the dusty, antique vehicle rattles up to in type. It is estimated that a million
the court of the inn, the guard gets and a half of Roumanians are settled in
down, dusts the leather casing of the Hungary, and in this section they are
gun which nowadays he is never com exceedingly numerous. Men and women
pelled to use ; then he touches his square wear showy costumes, quite barbaric and
hat,ornamented with a feather, to the uncomfortable. The women seem deter-
maids and men of the hostelry. When mined to wear as few garments as pos-
the mails are claimed, the horses re- sible and to compensate for lack of
freshed, and the stage is covered with its number by brightness of coloring. In
leathern hood, postilion and guard sit many a pretty face traces of gypsy
down together in a cool corner under the blood may be seen. This vagabond taint
gallery in the court-yard and crack various gives an inexpressible charm to a. face
small flasks of wine. They smoke their for which the Hungarian strain has al-
porcelain pipes, imported from Vienna, ready done much. The coal-black hair
with the air of men of the world who and wild, mutinous eyes setoff to per-
have travelled and who could tell you a fection the pale face and exquisitely
thing or two if they liked. They are thin lips, the delicate nostrils and beau-
never tired of talking of Mehadia, which tifully moulded chin. Angel or devil?
is one of their principal stations. The queries the beholder. Sometimes he is
sad-faced nobleman, followed by the constrained to think that the possessor
decorous old man-servant in fantastic of such a face has the mingled souls of
Magyar livery, who arrived in the dili- saint and siren. The light undertone of
gence, has been to the baths. The mas- melancholy which pervades gypsy beauty,
ter is vainly seeking cure, comes every gypsy music, gypsy manners, has an
year, and always supplies postilion and extremely remarkable fascination for all
guard with the money to buy flasks of who perceive it. Even when it is almost
wine. This the postilion tells me and buried beneath ignorance and animal
my fellows, and suggests that the " hon- craft it is still to be found in the gypsy
710 KrnopE ix sron.v axd calm.
nature after diligent search. This strange lawn and a cool breeze fanned the fore-
race seems overshadowed by the sorrow heads of the listeners. When the light
of some haunting memory. Each indi- was all gone, these men, as if inspired
vidual belonging to the Tsiganes whom hy the darkness, sometimes improvised
I saw impressed me as a fugitive from most angelic melody. There was never
Fate. To look back was impossible ; of any loud or boisterous note, never any
the present he was careless ; the future direct, appeal to the attention. I iu-
tempted him on. In their music one variably forgot the singers ancj players,
now and then hears hints of a desire to and the music seemed a part of the har-
some tar-off and
return to half-forgotten mony of Nature. While the pleasant
land. But this is rare. notes echoed in the twilight troops of
There is a large number of " civil- jaunty young Hungarian soldiers, dressed
ized gypsies," so called, in the neigh- in red hose, dark-green doublets, and
borhood of Orsova. I never saw one of small caps, sometimes adorned with
them without a profound compassion for feathers, sauntered up and down the
him, so utterly unhappy did he look in principal street; the refugees huddled
ordinary attire. The musicians who in corners and listened with delight; the
came nightly to play on the lawn in Austrian officials lumbered by, pouring
front of the Hungarian Crown inn be- clouds of smoke from their long, strong,
longed to these civilized Tsieanes. They and inevitable cigars; and the dogs for-
had lost all the freedom of gesture, the got their perennial quarrel for a few
proud, half-savage stateliness of those instants at a time.
who remained nomadic and untrammelled The dogs of Orsova and of all the
bv local law and custom. The old in- neighboring country have many of the
stinct was in their music, and sometimes characteristics of their fellow-creatures
there drifted into it the same mixture in Turkey. Orsova is divided info
of saint and devil which I had seen in •• heats," which are thoroughly and care-
the " composite " faces. fully patrolled night and day by hands
As soon as supper was set forth, of doe,s, who recognize the limits of their
piping Hanked by flagons of
hot and domain and severely resent intrusion.
beer and wine, on the lawn, and the In front of the Hungarian Crown a large
guests had assembled to partake of the dog, aided by a small yellow cur anil a
g 1 cheer, while yet the after-glow lin- black spaniel, mainly made up of ears
gered Danube, these dusky
along the ami tail, maintained order. The after-
musicians appeared and installed them- noon quiet was generally disturbed about
selves in a corner. The old stream's four o'clock by tin' advent of a strange
murmur could not drown the piercing canine, who, with that expression of ex-
and pathetic notes of the violin, the gen- treme innocence which always character-
tle wail of the guzla, or the soft thrum- izes the animal that knows he is doing
ming of the rude tambourine. Little wrong, would venture on to the forbid-
poetry as a spectacled and frosty Aus- den ground. A low growl in chorus
trian officer might have in his soul, that from the three guardians was the inev-
must have been awakened by the
little itablepreliminary warning. The new-
songs and the orchestral performances comer usually seemed much surprised at
of the Tsiganes as the sun sank low. this, and gave an astonished glance,
The dusk began to creep athwart the then wagging his tail merrily, as much
EUROPE IV STORM AXD CALM. 711
as to say, "Nonsense! 1 must have hungry wolves. A dog scarcely six

been mistaken," he approached anew. inches high and but twice as long would
One of the trio of guardians there- spring from the ground as if a pound of
upon sallied forth to meet him, fol- dynamite had exploded beneath him,
lowed by thp others a little distance and would make a desperate effort to
behind. If the strange dog showed his throw himself into the wagon. Another,
teeth, assumed a defiant attitude, and howling in impotent anger, would jump
seemed inclined to make his way through full at a horse's throat, would roll be-
any number of enemies, the trio held a neath the feet of the horse, but in some
consultation, which I am bound to say miraculous fashion would escape unhurt,
almost invariably resulted in a light. and would scramble upon a bank to try
The intruder would either fly yelping, again. It was a real relief when the
or would work his way across the inter- discouraged pack fell away. Had 1 shot
dieted territory by means of a series of one of the animals, the i;'yp*' cs would
encounters, accompanied by the most have found a way to avenge the death of
terrific barking, snapping, and shriek- their enterprising though somewhat too
ing, and by a very considerable effusion zealous camp-follower. Animals every-
of blood. The person who should inter- where on these border lines of the Orient
fere to Orsova
prevent a dog-fight in are treated with much more fenderness
would be regarded as a lunatic. Some- thanmen and women are. The grandee
times a large white dog. accompanied by who would scowl furiously in this wild
two shaggy animals resembling wolves region of the Banat if the peasants did
so closely that it was almost impossible not stand by the roadside and doff their
to believe them guardians of flocks of hats in token of respect and submission
sheep, passed by the Hungarian Crown would not kick a dog out of his way, and
unchallenged but these were probably
; would manifest the utmost tenderness
tried warriors, whose valor was so well for his horses.
known that they were no longer ques- The railway from Verciorova, on the
tioned anywhere. frontier, runs through the large towns
The gypsies have in their wagons or Pitesti and Craiova on its way to Bu-
following in their train small black dogs, charest. It is a marvellous railroad : it
of temper unparalleled for ugliness. It climbs hills, descends into dee]) gullies,
is impossible to approach a Tsigane tent and has as little of the air line about it
or wagon without encountering a swarm as a great river has, for the contractors
of these diminutive creatures, whose built it on the principle of "keeping
rage is not only amusing, but sometimes near the surface," and they much pre-
rather appalling, to contemplate. Driv- ferred climbing ten high mountains to
ing rapidly by a camp one morning in a cuttingone tunnel. Craiova takes its
fanner's cart drawn by two stout horses name, according to a somewhat misty
adorned with jingling bells. I was fol- legend, from John Assan, who was one
lowed by a pack of these dark-skinned of the Romano-Bulgarian kings, Craiova
animals. The
awoke such rage
bells being a corruption of Crai Trim. (" King
within them that they
seemed insane John"). This John was the same who
under its influence. As they leaped and drank his wine from a cup made out of
snapped around me I felt like some the skull of the unlucky emperor Bald-
traveller in a Russian forest pursued by win I. The old laws of Craiova gave
.
their title to the Roumanian silver pieces rapidly emptying. The host was a mas-
now known as bafli. Slatina, farther sive man, with bulbous nose and sleepy
down the line, on the river Altu ( the Aluta eyes he responded to all questions with
;
of the ancients), is a pretty town, where a, stare, and the statement that he did
a proud and brave community love to not know, and seemed anxious to leave
recite to the stranger the valorous deeds everything in doubt until the latest
of their ancestors. It is the centre from moment possible. His daughter, who
which have spread out most of the was brighter and less dubious in her
modern revolutionary movements in Rou- responses than her father, was a slight
mania. " Little Wallachia," in which gill, with lustrous black eyes, wistful
Slatina stands, is rich in well-tilled lips, a perfect form, and black hair cov-
fields and uplands covered with fat cat- ered with a linen cloth that the dust
tle. It is as fertile as Kansas, and its might not come near its glossy threads.
people seemed to me more agreeable When she made her appearance, flash-
and energetic than those in and around ing out of a huge dark room, which was
Bucharest stone paved, and arched overhead, and
He who clings to the steamers plying in which peasants sat drinking sour beer,
up and down the Danube sees much she seemed like a ray of sunshine in the
romantic scenery and many curious middle of night. But there was more
types, hut he loses charm of all the real dignity about, her than to be found in is
travel in these regions. The future most sunbeams was modest and
; she
tourist, on his way to or from Bulgaria civil in answer, but understood no com-
and the battle-fields of the " new cru- pliments. There was something of the
sade," will he wise if lie journeys leis- pr in cess- reduced-in-circu instances in her
urely by farm-wagon — he will not be demeanor. A royal supper could she
likely to find a carriage — along the serve, and the linen which she spread on
Hungarian bank of the stream. I made the small wooden table in the back court-
the journey in April, when in that gentle yard smelled of lavender. I took my
southward climate the wayside was al- dinners after the long days' rides, in
ready radiant with flowers and the mel- inns which commanded delicious views
low sunshine was unbroken by cloud or of the Danube, — points where willows
rain. There were discomfort and dust, overhung the rushing stream, or where
but there was a rare pleasure in the crags towered above it, or where it
arrival at a quaint inn whose exterior flowed in smooth, yet resistless, might
front, boldly asserting itself in the through plains in which hundreds of
bolder row of house-fronts in a long peasants were toiling, their red-and-
village street, was uninviting enough, while costumes contrasting sharply with
but the interior of which was charming. the brilliant blue of the sky and the
In such a hostelry I always found the tender green of the foliage.
wharf master, in green coat and cap, If tin- inns were uniformly cleanly and
asleep an arm-chair, with the burgo-
in agreeable, so much could not be said for
master and one or two idle landed pro- the villages, which were sometimes de-
prietors sitting near him at a card-table, cidedly dirty. The cottages of the
enveloped in such a cloud of smoke that peasants — that is of the agricultural la-
one could scarcely see tlie long-necked borers — were windowless to a degree
tlasks of white wine which they were which led me to look for a small and
EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM. i\;\
dull-eyed race; but the elegant orbs of loose linen garments, with their primi-
youths and maidens in all this Ban at tive hoes and spades on their shoulders,
land are rarely equalled in beauty. I were as goodly specimens of manly
found it in my heart to object to the strength and beauty as one could wish
omnipresent swine. These cheerful ani- to look upon. It hurt me to see them
mals were sometimes so domesticated stand humbly ranged in rows as I passed.
that they followed their masters and But was pleasant to note the fer-
it
mistresses afield in the morning. In vor with which they knelt around the
this section of Hungary, as indeed in cross, rearing its sacred form amid the
most parts of Europe, the farm-houses waving grasses. They knew nothing of
are all huddled together in compact vil- the outer world, save from time to time
lages, and the lands tilled by the dwell- the Emperor claimed certain of their
ers in these communities extend for number for his service, and that perhaps
miles around them. At dawn the pro- their lot might lead them to the great
cession of goes forth, and at
laborers city of Budapest. Everywhere as far
sunset it Nothing can give a
returns. as the eye could reach the land was cul-
better idea of rural simplicity and peace tivated with greatest care, and plenty
than the return of the peasants of a seemed the lot of all. The peasant lived
hamlet at eventide from their vineyards in an ugly and windowless house be-
and meadows. Just as the sun was cause his father and grandfather had
deluging the broad Danube with glory done so before him, not because it was
before relinquishing the current to the necessary. It was odd to sec girls tall
twilight's shades I came, in the soft as Dian, and as fair, bending their pretty
April evening, into the neighborhood of bodies to come out of the contempti-
Drenkova. A tranquil afterglow was ble little apertures in the peasant houses
here and there visible near the hills, called "doors."
which warded off the sun's passionate Drenkova is a long street of low cot-
farewell glances at the vines and flowers. tages, with here and there a two-story
Beside the way, on the green banks, sat mansion, to denote that the proprietors
groups of children clad with paradisaical of the land reside there. As I ap-
simplicity, awaiting their fathers and proached the entrance to this street I
mothers. At a vineyard's hedge a sweet saw a most remarkable train coming to
girl, tall, and melancholy, was
stately, meet me. One glance told me that it
twining a garland in the cap of a stout was a large company of gypsies, who had
young fellow who rested one broad come up from Rournania, and were going
hand lightly upon her shoulder. Old northward in search of work or plunder.
women, bent and wrinkled, hobbled out My driver drew rein, and we allowed the
from the fields, getting help from their swart Bohemians to pass on, — a courtesy
sons or grandsons. Sometimes I met a which was gracefully acknowledged with
shaggy white horse drawing a cart, in a singularly sweet smile from the driver
which a dozen sonsie lasses, their faces of the first cart. There were about two
browned by wind and their tresses hundred men and women in this wagon
blown back from their brows in most train, audi verily believe that there were
bewitching manner by the libertine twice as many children. Each cart,
breeze, were jolting homeward, singing drawn by a small Roumanian pony, con-
as they went. The young men in their tained two or three families huddled
14 EUROPE rif STORM AND CALM.
together, and seemingly lust in contem- tions. The battle was over, and I was
plation of the beautiful sunset your ; for not sorry to notice a few minutes later
real gypsy is akeen admirer of nature and that pater familias had thought better of
her charms. Some of the women were his conduct, and was himself spreading
intensely hideous: age had made them as the tent and setting forth his wandering
unattractive as in youth they had been Lures and Penates.

pretty ; others were graceful and well A few hundred yards from the point
formed. Many won' hut a single gar- where these wanderers had settled for
ment. The men were wilder than any night found some rude huts, in which
I
that I had ever before seen : their matted other gypsies were residing permanently.
hair, their thick lips, and their dark eyes These huts were mere shelters placed
gave them almost
appearance of the against, steep banks or hedges, and
negroes. One or two of them had been within there was no furniture save one
foraging, and bore sheeps' heads and or two blankets, a camp-kettle, and
hares, which they had purchased or some wicker baskets. Young girls
"taken" in the village. They halted twelve or thirteen years of age crouched
as soon as they had passed me, and pre- naked about a smouldering fire. They
pared to go into camp; so I waited a d'nlnot. seem unhappy or hungry and ;
little to observe them. During the proc- none of these strange people paid any
ess of arranging the carts for the night attention to me as I drove on to the inn,
one of the women became enraged at the which, oddly enough, was at some dis-
father of her brood because he would not tance from the main village, hard by
aid her in the preparation of the simple the Danube side, in a gully between
tent under which the family was to re- the mountains, where coal-barges lay
pose. The woman ran to him. clinching moored. The Servian mountains, cov-
her and screaming forth invective,
list ered from base to summit with dense
which. I am convinced, had I understood forests, cast a. deep gloom over the vale.
it, and had it been directed at me. I In a garden, ona terrace behind the inn,
should have found extremely disagree- by (he light of a flickering candle, I ate a
able. After thus lashing the culprit frugal dinner, and went to bed much im-
with language for some time, she broke pressed by the darkness, in such striking
forth into screamsand danced frantically contrast to the delightful and picturesque
around him. Hi' arose, visibly dis- scenes through which I hail wandered all
turbed, and I fancied that his .savage day.

nature would come uppermost, and that But I speedily forgot this next morn-
he might, be impelled to give her a brutal ing when the landlord informed me
beating. But he, on the contrary, ad- that, instead of toiling over the road
vanced leisurely towards her and spat along the crags to Orsova, whither I
upon the ground with an expression of was returning. I could embark on a tug-
extreme contempt. She seemed to feel boat bound for that cheerful spot, and
this much more than she would have felt could thus inspect the grand scenery
a blow, and her fury redoubled. She of the Gates from the river. The
lie.!;
likewise spat; he again repeated the swift express boats, which in time of
contemptuous act; and. after both had peace run from Vienna to Rustchuk,
gratified the anger which was consuming whisk the traveller so rapidly through
them, they walked off in different direc- these famous defiles that he sees little
else than a panorama of high, rocky these defiles in the very infancy of the
walls. But the slow-moving and clumsy Christian era; and in memory of his
tug, with its train of barges attached, first splendid campaign against the
offers 1 tetter facilities to the lover of Dacians he carved in the solid nick
natural beauty. We
had dropped clown the letters,some of which are still visi-
only a short distance below Drenkova ble, and which, by their very grandilo-
before we found the river path filled quence, offer a mournful commentary
with eddies, miniature whirlpools, de-
noting the vicinity of the gorges into
which the great current is compressed.
These whirlpools all have names one :
iscalled the "Buffalo;" a second, "Ker-

daps " a third is known as the
;
" De-
vourer." For three or four hours we ran
in the shade of mighty walls of porphyry
and granite, on whose tops were forests
of oaks and elms. I could fancy that the
veins of red porphyry running along
the face of the granite were blood-
stains, the tragic memorials of ancient
battles for, wild and inaccessible as
;
this region seems, it has been fought

over and through in sternest fashion.
Perched on a little promontory on the
Servian side is the tiny town of Poretch,
where the brave shepherds and swine-
herds fought the Turk, against whose
oppression they had risen, until they
were overwhelmed by numbers, and
their leader, Hadji Nikolos, lost his
head. The Austrians point out with
HUNGARIAN TYPES.
pride the cave on the tremendous Hank
of Mt. Choukourou, where, two cen-
on the fleeting nature of human great-
turies ago, an Austrian general, at the
ness. Little did he think when his
head of seven hundred men, all that
eyes rested lovingly on this inscription,
was left to him of a goodly army, sus-
beginning :
—
tained a three months' siege against
large Turkish forces. This cave is " Imp. Cczs. D. NervcB Filius Nerva.
perched high above the road at a point Trajaniis. Germ. Pont. Maximus,"
where it absolutely commands it, and
the government of to-day, realizing its that Time, with profane hand, would
importance, has had it fortified and wipe out the memory of many of his
furnished with walls pierced by loop- glories and would undo all the work
holes. Trajan fought his way through that he had done.
7]() EUROrE IN STORM A.Xh CALM.
CHAPTER EIGHTY-ON E.
A Journey through Roumania in War Time. —A Khan. — Advantages and Disadvantages.
Its Primitive —
Life of the Villagers. —On the Great Plains. — The Water Wells. — The Approaches to Bucharest.—
Roumanian Legends. — The Froutier of Europe. — French Influence in Roumania. Bucharest and —
New i
Irleans.
MIDNIGHT. A lonely khan on the They had forgotten for a few moments
crest of aRoumanian hill, at to bay the moon, and had snatched a
whose base stretches away a
forest, nap; but our third shout brings
fitful
Eastward, a broad plateau, impressive them around us in almost formidable

by reason of its vastness. Here and numbers. One or two brutes leap up to
there, dotting the darkness which we snap at us, and the little horses snort
have left behind us, camp-fires, with with terror; for your true Roumanian
rude figures seated around them. The dog has very much of the wolf left in
musical clink of a hammer on
gyp- a him, and will lunch off a live traveller
sy's anvil is borne to us on the breeze: from time to time, while a dead one is
the brown Bohemian is repairing a team- always acceptable. Just as we meditate
ster's cart. lie will labor all night, and firing our revolvers into the pack of
to-morrow will slumber peacefully in the clamorous dogs a curious figure ap-
shade of a tree. Midnight, and we are proaches. One glance is sufficient to
hungry and weary so we raise our ; reveal that it is the night-watchman of
voices in a prolonged shout. No an- the locality. He is a shambling, awk-
swer. ward youth, clad in red leggings, a
Hut presentlyhuge black mass a stuffed short jacket, and a sheepskin
comes lumbering towards us. It is a cap. In one hand he carries a long and
water-buffalo, lie marches slowly, sol- antiquated gun, in the other a knife, in a
enmly u|i to the horses, sniffs them wooden scabbard, from which an elab-
contemptuously, then stands impudently orately carved handle of bone protrudes.
eying us, wagging his stupid head, Without vouchsafing us a single word
covered with baked mud, to and fro, he steps to the side of the khan's low
and almost persuading us that lie con- wall, and in a shrill voice addresses a
templates an attack upon our party with series of reproaches to some unknown
his crooked, useless horns. Is he the person within. The language is not
guardian of the khan? choice, so I will not repeat it. Presently
We shout again, and charge on the ,-i wide door swings open, and the youth,
water-buffalo, forcing him by smart saluting us with the knife, shambles
blows with our whips to retire, moan- into the shadows again, the dogs, who
ing, and evidently considering himself a evidently recognize his authority, re-
unich-iii jured beast. no answer. Still spectl'ullv following him.
We hatter at the door of the khan Dismounting from our jaded horses
with all our might, and once more halloo we enter the chief room of the khan.
with full force. Now the dons awaken. On its mud lloor half-a-dozen figures are
ECROTE IN STORM AXD CALM. Ill
stretched, and we can dimly see that then, do the villagers subsist? The
they are human. Near the wall a large guide leads us to the door opening into
black hog reclines, indulging in dreams the huge barn-yard of the khan and points
of a porcine paradise. The light of the to the driver of our wagon, who is seated
feel ile lamp which the master of the on the ground, with a liit of straw spread
khan carries hand enables us to
in his before him. On this straw is a small
see this, as well as to remark that fowls loaf of black bread, a huge piece of
roost over the fireplace, and that a gaunt white cheese, and a little clay pot tilled
dog shows his teeth from a recess near with coarse hominy. Near by stands an
that occupied by the swine. Ou the earthen vase containing water. "That
right hand from the entrance is a small is the stuff that the villagers eat." said
loom, the only furniture in which is a the guide. ".Sometimes they take the
long woodeu bench in front of a coarse trouble to cook meat it is easy enough
;
counter and a few casks of wine backed to get, but they are generally too lazy to
against the wall. On the left is the prepare See, this is the end of the
it.
room which we are to sleep. A low

in world ! low can you expect civilization
I
divan extends around three sides of this here?" We go out through a gate in
small and uninviting chamber, and on the the wall, and look at the village. My
window-sills are placed painted images first thought is that I have suddenly been
of St. George and St. Michael. A transported to Africa. Surely, these

rosary hangs from a wooden peg, and low, wattled huts, with round tops, with
an ancient gun, of such complicated tiny doors, and scarcely any windows,
mechanism that it must require a liberal are African in form and the dark faces
;
education to lire it off, stands in a corner. peering suspiciously from behind bits
A Turkish water-basin and pitcher of of fencing, are they not those of
beaten metal sit on the floor. A faint negroes ?
odor of burned garlic and cheap wine The strong men and women are afield,
pervades the whole khan, and we awake working actively before the heat of the
in the morning impressed with the feel- day comes on, and only the children,
ing that we have been immersed in a bath the superannuated folk, and the dogs
impregnated with those subtle aromas. remain in the village. Most of the
The host, who is the only person in youthful population from the age of four
the village who appears to possess a to fourteen is naked, and leaps and
whole coat, looks bewildered when asked runs unashamed along the hard roads
by our guide if he can furnish the mate- between the huts. The only indication
rials for breakfast. He rolls a cigarette, of real civilization in this community is
looks helplessly from side to side, and a steam threshing-machine, which one
at last begins a series of apologies. of the landed proprietors of the neigh-
The hens had laid some eggs yesterday, borhood erected only last year. There
but Russian officers on the way to Bul- is no church, no school, no public build-
garia had purchased them. lie does ing of any kind. No inhabitant seems
not like to kill his chickens, lie is not to know anything of the country ten
sure there any bread left in the house.
is miles beyond There is
his village.
As for meat, where can it be found? more intelligence among the wandering
Certainly none of the inhabitants have gypsies than in these stupid tillers of
any. Cheering prospect! On what, the soil, who are content with so little,
and who faiicy that the Roumanian prin- way : the deadening heat under which
cipality is the whole world. unfortunate animals are often compelled
This is. however, ;m exceptionally to drag heavy burdens twelve or sixteen
degraded section. We have passed hours daily is fatal to them. It is a
through neat and handsome villages, painful sight to sec poor oxen, with
where the small cottages, with the noisy tongues lolling out and eyes protruding
storks clacking on their roofs, were from their sockets, struggling to reach a
grouped in picturesque fashion, and well before the (lea Ill-stroke falls upon
where the Greek church-spire pointed them. The unlucky teamster who finds
heavenward, and the primary school was himself stranded on the sands by the
housed in a decent structure. Pretty loss of his team betakes himself to the
"iris in gay costumes were gathered at whimsical objurgation of which the Rou-
the fountains, and stout men leading manian peasants an so fond, then 1
bullocks attached to carts laden with the lights his cigarette and sits down philo-
crops from the rich lands dotted their sophically until help arrives. In the
caps and sainted us gracefully. Hut open country in Roumania, as in Turkey,
here, in this sun-baked, sun-swept, sun- no one takes the precaution to bury
burnished hind, the men arc surly, the carrion ; and he who has ever been un-
women ugly, the children saucy and vi- fortunate enough to pitch his camp in
cious. We begin to feel out of temper the vicinity of some perished beasts of
with this strange Roumanian province. burden will never forget it.
Presently we recover our equanimity, On our journey from the Danube back
for our wagoner, having thoughtfully to Bucharest we discovered that the
finished his own breakfast
first, manages only way to secure attention in the
to collect scraps enough for us, and my Roumanian villages of the section
companions and can at last ride on
I through which we were then passing was
across the seemingly endless plains, to command it. The peasants under-
through the forests of rustling corn, stood commerce but very poorly; an
towards Bucharest. The sun is hot; offer to buy food and grain was received
each horse as he plunges his hoofs into much arms would be in
as a request for
the tine sand in the way causes a dense Western Europe but peremptory orders,
;
cloud of dust to rise. As far as the eye though not much to the peasant's taste,
can reach we can see the level plain were effectual. In this he much resem-
before us. Mild a long row of well-sweeps bles his Bulgarian neighbor on the other
— which seem beckoning to us with their side of the Danube. The stubborn-
weird arms to hasten forward — marks ness of the Roumanian with regard to
the spots at which we must not fail to some matters is remarkable, and is
pause, and refresh our horses with doubtless attributable to the indepen-
water. The Roumanian traveller offers dence that has crept into his character
drink to his steed every half hour ; the with the adoption of the exceedingly
beast moistens his lips, pricks up his liberal new political constitution of the
ears, which were beginning to droop, and country. In endeavoring to purchase

continues, much encouraged. some of the bright although coarsely
The distances between these wells are patterned carpets which the peasant
strewn with the skeletons of bullocks women weave there is no chance for
and horses which have perished by the barter. You may take or leave a car-
EUROrE IN STORJIf AND CALM. 719
pet, as you please : no persuasion can through the rugged mountains of the
alter the price primarily fixed upon it. principality, it is not astonishing that
Perhaps the most remarkable feature when he arrives in Bucharest, the capi-
of Roumania is the enormous difference tal, he is ready to bestow upon it all the
between the villages and the towns of extravagant titles which it has received
moderate size, as well as the cities. during the last generation, such as -'The
Louis Blanc says that in France there City of Pleasure," " Paris in the East,"
is an abyss between the city and the " The Wanderer's Paradise, "etc. After
country and this would certainly seem
: months of weary wandering in Turkey in
to be the case in the Wallachian princi- Europe, he who reaches the well-kept
pality. The towns are full of activity, and tidy streets of the handsome new
and in certain kinds of trade manifest quarter of Bucharest, — who finds himself
real energy ; but five miles from any once more dazzled by the glitter of Eu-
town most of the villages are semi- ropean uniforms and surrounded by evi-
barbaric. They spoke with discouraged dence of luxury and fashion, the very
tone of the burdens of war and the slow memory of which had begun to fade from
progress of education consequent upon his mind, —
amazed and enchanted.
is
the poverty of the country. But it It is like coming out of a dreary desert
must not be supposed that Roumania is directly upon a garden filled with choice
indifferent to the cause of national edu- and beautiful flowers, with rippling riv-
cation. The constitution provides for a ulets and plashing fountains. We en-
liberal primary instruction, and renders tered Bucharest from the plains, and so
it compulsory " wherever schools are its picturesqueness and the magic of the
established." Each village or district is change were both enhanced. Advancing

supposed to provide funds for the sup- rapidly, two hours before sunset, towards
port of free schools, but the villagers the town, which I could see before me
plead their extreme misery as an excuse, miles away, I could observe nothing
and prefer to keep their children steadily specially attractive in its appearance.
at work as soon as they are strong But as I reached the vicinity of a long
enough to go afield, rather than to ac- line of massive ancient buildings in the
cord them time to study. There were, outskirts of Bucharest the sun was just
nevertheless, but a few years since, deluging their gayly painted and deco-
nearly one hundred and twenty-five thou- rated walls with floods of light. The
sand children frequenting rural primary picture was a lovely one, and distinctly
schools, and over sixty thousand were original. I rode on in a kind of spell.
receiving elementary education in city produced by the mystical afterglow,

schools. Instruction in Roumania is di- through narrow lanes lined on either side
vided, as in France, into three grades, — with liliputian houses set down in the
primary, secondary, and superior or pro- middle of green lawns under frowning ;
fessional. In the highest grade the arches through alleys paved with stones,
;
Roumanians have numerous establish- each one of which seemed struggling out
ments which will bear favorable com- of the earth to smite the impertinent
parison with similar ones in other lauds. new-comer ;
past a convent with its por-
The khan, the monastery, and the tals covered with pictures of saints and
villager's hut being the only shelters for martyrs ;
past a grim modern barrack,
the traveller across the mighty plains or in front of which stood a swart sentry
boldiug a drawn sword ; then over a who in ancient times pastured his flock
naked parade-ground ; and, finally, in on a hill now occupied by the cathedral
rugged and unimposing procession, my and legislative palace, and who had
companions and 1 drew rein on a boule- there built a chapel to St. Athanasius,
vard no whit, inferior in magnificence, as as well as a hut for himself. His chil-
far as il extended, to those of Paris, and dren arc supposed to have taken the name
alighted at a palatial hotel, which formed of the Bucuresci, the plural of Bucur,
a curious khan before
contrast to the according to the custom, and to have
whose door a few evenings previous we given it to the hamlet which their father
had loudly clamored. had founded. Macarius, the Patriarch
The Roumanians are very proud of of Antioch, who visited the town about
their capital, which is the most impor- the middle of the seventeenth century,
tant city in all the Danuliian principal- has left in his memoirs the statement
ities, and has an entertaining history. that it then had oue hundred thousand
Belgrade is but a miserable village coin- inhabitants, thousand houses, and
six
pared with Burn reset (pronounced Boii- forty churches and monasteries. Since
courechti, if you wish to represent that time, despite most frightful visita-
faithfully to yourself the Wallachiau tions of pestilence, —
to which it appears
name of the city). There are so many to have been particularly subject dining
legends concerning the origin of this the last, century, — despite conflagrations
quaint name that people generally choose and wars, and foreign occupations, it
that, which pleases their fancy most. has grown to comprise within its limits
The intelligent, seem to divide
classes over two hundred and fifty thousand
their preference between two stories. people. The plague has not visited
The first explains the manner in which Bucharest since 1813, when seventy thou-
Bucharest gained the sobriquet of " City sand persons perished in less than six
of Pleasure." It is related that once weeks. The principality hardly rallied
upon a time, when the Turks had infor a generation after this crushing blow.
vaded Wallachia, before retiring they Turk, Russian, ami Austrian made
demanded a tribute of ten thousand themselves very much at home in Bucha-
ducats and five hundred boys. < real rest in the eighteenth century, and one
was the indignation at this insolent can excuse some of the extreme jealousy
demand, and the result was a battle, in which Roumanians of the present day
which Mirzea the Elder defeated the feci with regard to strangers when one
Ottomans with terrific slaughter, anil remembers how unhappy their experience
Compelled the survivors to fly. Thank- of foreigners has been. When the Rus-
ful for his victory, he built a memorial sians first, came into the country, in 1S77,
church and a princely palace at a spot numbers of tin' elder inhabitants groaned
which is now the site of Bucharest, and aloml :mil exclaimed, "What shall we
"
which is supposed to have gained its lose this time ?
name at that time from the many rejoic- Bucharest can be from the
reached
ings oxer victory, as bucurie in the Rou- capitals of Western Europe by three
manian means ••joy."
tongue This routes, the most direct and important
legend somewhat misty, others
being being the railroad leading through the
believe that Bucharest takes its name Austrian Bukoviua and by way of Lem-
from an historical shepherd named Bucur, berg and Cracow to Vienna the second a ;
railway passing through the fertile re- though he is bitterly hated and often sub-
gions of Little Wallachia to the Danube jected to downright abuse by the native
bank, and thence to Orsova, in Hungary, Roumanians. In a small town near
where it now connects with the branch J assy, during my visit to Roumania in
tapping the main line from Pesth to the spring of last year, two Jews were
Vienna and the third by steam-boat on
; beaten almost to death, with circum-
the Danube from Vienna or Pesth to stances of barbarous and bestial cruelty
Ginrgevo, the Roumanian port opposite attending the ferocious punishment,
Rustchuk, in Bulgaria, and one of the simply because one of them had given a
most important of the Russian stations quick answer to a police-master who
during the war witli Turkey. Four days told him that Jews had no business to
of steady travel by express trains and the be sitting outside their houses late at
expenditure of a little more than a hun- night. Both Russians and Roumanians
dred dollars in gold for fares and trans- are intolerant and ungenerous in a star-
port of baggage will take the traveller tling degree with regard to the Hebrew
from Paris to Bucharest by the most trader. It is also to be said that the
direct route. Jew gives considerable provocation, and
The Roumanian gentleman is usually that his extreme sharpness in money
educated in France, and always pre- matters provokes envy and a desire on
serves the fondest remembrance and the part of the ignorant and often fa-
liveliest affection for that cheerful natical agricultural populationof Rou-
country. Indeed, the stranger who mania to get even with him by means
plunges into Rouniania without any pre- of sundry well-bestowed thrashings and
vious knowledge of its history or charac- kickiugs. Thousands of Jews followed
ter can almost persuade himself that he the Russian army into Roumania and
has fallen upon a French province in down to the Danube, and a recital of
the Orient. The uniforms of gendarmes some of the expedients to which they
at the railway stations, of customs offi- resorted for amassing fortunes speedily
cials, of policemen, are French in pat- would go far in the minds of many to
tern the army officers seem to have just
; excuse the extreme measures sometimes
left the barracks of Paris and French ; taken against them. It is probable
is spoken with great purity and with no that as Roumania becomes more gener-
perceptible foreign accent by all edu- ally intelligent and prosperous a preju-
cated people. The Roumanians, like dice which is degrading and unworthy of
the Russians, appear to possess an ex- the civilization of the nineteenth century
traordinary facility for acquiring foreign will die away, and the Hebrew will pur-
languages. Now that they have a Ger- sue those callings for which he has es-
man prince to rule over them, the upper pecial fitness unrestrained and without
classes cultivate the German language, fear of ill-treatment.
and the names of the fashionable trades- In midsummer there are many charac-
men on the principal streets end in em teristics in the life of Bucharest which
or ein, and are prefaced with the respect- remind the American of New Orleans.
able and venerable patronymics of Both are lowland cities both allow the ;
Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. The Jew visitor to realize to the full the inex-
has a certain commercial force and in- pressible witchery of the strange south-
fluential position in the principality, al- ern twilight and the glamour of restful
'22 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
afternoons and both have an immense

; vitza as the most charming of European
vagabond population. As New Orleans streams. It really is nothing of the
has the vagrant negro, so Bucharest has sort; it is a small yellow current, and
the gypsy, the joyous, thievish, patient, looks so uninviting that one can scarcely
long-suffering, and, on the whole, mueh- understand how the gypsy beauties can
to-be-admired Tsigane. The mystic consent to lave their dusky persons in it
children of the East number more than But every descendant of Trajan's colo-
three hundred thousand in Moldavia and nists believes it to be a stream quite as
Wallachia, the two ancient provinces classical as the Tiber, and a loving
now definitely united under the name couplet in the soft Roumanian language
of Roumania, and naturally there are asserts —
many thousands of them in Bucharest.
" Dimbovitza, loveliest water!
The race has been freed from slavery
lie who thinks can never leave thee."
only about twenty years, and is still
much lower in the intellectual and moral Let me add that this superstition,
scale than ourfreedmen of the .Southern which would be rather pretty if the
lowlands. The Tsiganes emigrated by water were clearer, has thousands of
thousands from Roumania into Austria believers among the lower classes, who
and Hungary as soon as the war began. are eminently superstitious. The gypsy
They possess the impudence of the de- mason, before he lays the foundations of
mon, and are masters in the art of lying. the stone house which he is engaged to
But little is expected of them, and the build, slyly measures the shadow of
Bucharestians, who are in general de- some unwary passer-by with a branch
cent, and in many respects refined, folks, which he buries in the soil where the
complacently allow gypsy women un- nether stones are to repose. He and
clad to bathe in broad daylight in the all companions in his craft throughout
river Dimbovitza, which courses directly Roumania believe that the person whose
through the middle of the populous city. shade is thus measured will die soon
They say, -'It is only a gypsy; and thereafter, and that his spirit is doomed
what does it matte]'?" to haunt the house when it is built.
The visitor to the Roumanian capital Each house has its $tahi&, or spirit, of
must beware of one danger if he wishes thiskind, and many wondrous stories
to continue in (he good graces of the cit- are told of their mysterious appearances
izens. He must ou all occasions, and and disappearances.
with extreme gusto, praise the Dimbo-
—
CHAPTER EIGHTY-TWO.
Notes on Bucharest. — Streets anil Street Types. — The Wallachian Soldiers. — Conscripted Peasantry.
Roumanian Independence. — Priests and Churches.
BUTa to return to Bucharest.

" Podan
principal street called the
It has years ago. In spring and
a delightful promenade, and from seven
summer it is
Mogosoi" (so'i being pronounced as if it to ten o'clock on summer evenings all the
were cho'i). This runs from south to ladies of Bucharest society are to be seen
north through the city, and along its there, languidly reposing in their car-
sides are ranged the principal hotels, the riages, and sipping ices. Bucharest has,
cafes, the one pretty theatre (Teatra I should think, as many carriages as New
Nationalu), the palace of the reigning York, for there are on all occasions
prince, some of the ministerial offices, hundreds to be had if wanted, and the
and nearly all of the consular and diplo- drivers urge their horses forward at such
matic residences. Bucharest has always a rattling pace, except during the grand
been considered an important point for procession of fashion on the Ghaussie,
the maintenance of diplomatic agents, as that the stranger finds some little diffi-
from thence one gets a wide lookout culty in keeping his seat. These drivers
over Turkey in Europe; and all the great in Bucharest, and in most of the large
powers have handsome mansions estab- Roumanian towns, are members of the
lished there, in which keen consular sect of Russian Skoptsi, or self-muti-
agents with diplomatic functions keep a lators. They wear tlat blue caps, long
sharp watch on each other and write long blue coats, and fancy boots, — a gala cos-
reports to their governments. In inter- tume which accords but poorly with their
vals of leisure they amuse themselves faces of parchment, their lack-lustre eyes,
with attending to court etiquette, and their piping voices. Most of them do
with the pleasant and brilliant society of not know ten words of the Wallachian
this odd away from the
capital, so far language, and they are guided entirely
shining Western Europe.
centres of by gestures. A touch on their right arm
Many of these agents have written clever sends them to the right on the left, to
;
books on the Roumanians and their neigh- the left and a tap on the back brings
;
bors. Beyond these diplomatic mansions them to a full stop. The spectacle of
the Podan Mogosoi leads past one, or at several hundreds of the carriages racing
most two, story houses, set down in little madly to and fro, filled with officers
gardens, until it reaches the Chaussee. beating perpetual tattoo on the backs,
This pretty park, with fine drive-ways aims, and ribs of the blue-coated autom-
running through it, was named the atons, as on the occasion of the arri-
" Chauss6e Kisselef" (Kisselef road), val of the Czar of Russia in Bucharest,
after the Russian general, who originated was at once ludicrous and inspiring.
its plan and urged the inhabitants to I fancy there is no other avenue in
create it, when he was stationed there Europe where one may see as many curi-
;
721 EUROPE IN STORM AND r.\LM.
(His and striking figures as on the Podan my friend took good aim and shotone of
Mogosoi. There are prosperous farmers the brigands dead ; the other ran away,
in Roumania, although the villages are The gentleman drove on to the next
squalid and semi-barbarous, and these town, and narrated the occurrence to
people take solid satisfaction in coming the local authorities. " Hum 1" said the
to Bucharest once or twice a year. All police agent ;
" we'll send some one out
summer long, and at all hours of the to find out who it was, and to bury him,
day, the promenader may meet the tiller in a day or two."
of the soil, his wife, and their pretty The stout and awkward Wallachian
brown-eyed daughter in procession visit- soldier is a familiar figure on the
iiiij; the shops on the Mogosoi. The Mogosoi'. lie is not handsome, and the
father wears a linen suit, ornamented national cap, to which lie so fondly
with red or blue ; the trousers are so wide clings, does not palliate his naturally
that they seem like meal-bags ; the uncouth appearance. lint lie is good-
jacket is also ample, and the bold rustic natured, earnest, and there never was a
displays the massive square of his more viler slander than that which denounced
or less hemic breast, which is burned to him as cowardly. He demonstrated his
a deep red by the generous sun. His valor in front of Plevna again and
head is crowned with a broad black hat, again. His uniform is extremely simple,
almost as ugly as that of a Spanish priest and he cannot be persuaded to wear it
sometimes he is barefooted, and some- trimly and neatly. He looks supremely
times he wears coarse shoes. The unhappy when compelled to maintain a
women's costumes are at once simple and military aspect, as when on guard
stiff
picturesque; their jackets and skirts are at the prince's palace or one of the
made of coarse stuffs, tastefully orua- ministries. He loves to crouch down
men ted and a ; scarf protects the head on the sunny side of a wall and smoke a
and face from the blinding light. In the cigarette and listen to a good story,
sprinu and autumn rainy seasons, when But if he sees the priest coming he will
the Roumanian village streets are turned instantly rise to his feet, doff his homely
into mud-beds, the women wear tall cap, bend his knees, and kiss the priestly
boots, which disfigure them and render hand which is held forth in token of
their gait exceedingly awkward. The favor.
farmer armed usually, but only with a
is There are numerous smartly uniformed
little which would serve in case
knife, special corps in the Roumanian capital,
some vagabond attacked him. Crime is The lifeguards of the prince are mighty
not frequent in Roumania cases of as- ; fellows, six feet two or three inches tall,
sassination are almost unheard of in the and arrayed as gorgeously as the carabin-
large towns, and in the wild and remote eers in Offenbach's opera. There is a
districts brigandage yearly becomes less body dressed somewhat in imitation of
andless troublesome. The brigand, when Italian bersaglieri, and a detachment of
he is caught, gets short shrift. A friend these bright little fellows in jaunty
of mine was travelling ten years since in dress marches through the principal
a thinly settled section of the province, streets at noontide to the sound of in-
and was attacked in a wooded place by spiring music, carrying the garrison
two rascals, who shot at him and his ser- flag when they go to relieve guard. A
vant. As they approached the wagon peculiarity which puzzled me was the
constant playing by the military bands as much from homesickness as do the

of our old war tunes, such as : " Tramp, Turks, and when the conscription drags
tramp, tramp," ''John Brown," "Mother, them from their beloved villages they
I've come home to die," etc. At tirst it are half ready to commit suicide. The
occurred to me that an American band- glare and glitter of the "Paris of the
master might be among the musicians ;
East" does not compensate them for the
but I could not discover one. Perhaps change from farm to garrison. They
the Roumanians have found that the sigh for the tall fields of rustling corn,
simple melodies of which our soldiers the hot breezes which now and
then blow
were so fond have also a special fitness from the south across the vast plains,
for their own military purposes. It is the water-buffaloes, and the huts in
certain that they have adopted them in whose thatch the stork trustingly nestles.
large numbers. Since Roumania has won her inde-
The policemen, the officers of crack pendence her army has become of greater
corps, the and sub-prefects,
prefects importance than ever before, and offers
and, in most of the uniformed
short, a good career to many enterprising men.
officials, follow French models with the But it is unfortunate that so small a
greatest closeness. Enter a cafe or a state compelled to maintain a com-
is
chocolate-vender's on the Mogosoi' on a paratively large standing army. If the

summer evening, and one may persuade forty or fifty thousand men Roumania
himself that he is in Paris, all the more — now requires and officers
as soldiers
readily as it is probable that nine out of were engaged in manufactures, or in
ten persons will be speaking the Gallic developing the marvellous mineral and
tongue. If some representative of the agricultural resources of one of the
court happens in, every one will fall richest of provinces, the country would
back into Roumanian, or possibly some soon take important rank in Europe.
few will indulge in German. The officers At present ever}' Roumanian is com-
are elegant, dashing fellows, and bestow pelled to serve either in the permanent
quite as much attention on their toilets army or in the militia. This latter
as is allowable for man. The plain, organization always amounts to about a
sturdy Russians looked at them with hundred thousand men, thirty-two regi-
some contempt when they first came ments of which are known as the
among them, on account of their affecta- dorobansi, who take the place of the old
tion but when they discovered that the
; frontier guardsmen ; twelve regiments as
handsome boys could fight as well as calarasi, or departmental gendarmerie,
tvviil their mustaches they were de- and fourteen batteries of artillery, which
lighted. oddly enough perform in peace the duties
A sorrowful spectacle on the Mogosoi of firemen. These are garrisoned in the
now and then is a conscripted peasant principal towns. The Roumanians real-
in the clutch of the military authorities. ize to the fullest extent that the Hun-
The poor wretch hurries angrily along, garians are their implacable enemies, and
his brow clouded, often his eyes filled that part of their frontier which touches
with tears, while behind him walks a Hungary is most efficiently guarded.
gendarme with drawn sword, ready to The five millions of Roumanian folk in
cut him down if he attempts to escape. the kingdom know also that there are
The peasants of Roumania suffer nearly three or four millions more of the same
blood scattered about in Hungary, Tran- ideal of the priesthood. He has the sad,
sylvania, and the Bukovina, and it may sweet face, with the low brow crowned
be with some idea of bringing their wan- with flowing locks parted in the middle,
dering brethren under the old flag at a such as we have sceu in the works of the
future day that they keep their army up, old Byzantine artists. An expression of
spending even in ordinary years, as they tender and subdued melancholy hovers
did in 1884-5, twenty-one millions of about the thin lips,and a chastened spirit
francs upon
and only about a third as
it, beams from the frank and widely opened
much on agriculture, commerce, and pub- eyes. A fine inspiration seems to hover
lic works. As for the Roumanian navy, about the man, warding off the grossness
easy- enough to support, for it boasts
it is of the lower nature and urging him on
only one large war-ship, the " Mirzea," to loftyand noble deeds. His step is
finished in 1883, besides three gun-boats, slow and plantigrade his gestures are;
three torpedo and a number of

boats, impressive ; his benedictions imposing.
police sloops for the Danube, and musters I have not wondered when I have seen
scarcely a thousand men. peasants kneeling in a kind of adoration
The stranger on the Mogosoi is puz- before such a man as he blessed their
zled in noticing that some police agents bread, their houses, or their babies.
and postmen wear red stripes upon their The Cossack, as he rode through the
uniforms, while others are striped with streets of Bucharest on his way to Bul-
black, others with green, and still others garia, bent from his saddle to kiss the
with yellow and blue. The fact is that hand of the priest, and crossed himself
Bucharest is divided into five large wards, religiously when passing the decorated
which are distinguished from each other portico of some one of the many wooden
by the names of colors. The northern churches. One fat and rather disagree-
seetion. in which the aristocracy reside, able-looking old priest, who was evi-
has yellow for its hue, and this color dently a dignitary of high order,
will be found on the letter-boxes, lamp- promenaded the Mogo?oi' every day of
posts, the collars of uniforms, etc. my stay in Bucharest. At his approach
Red is the commercial and plebeian dye ;
women began to crouch, men to drop
green means west; black, east, and their cigars or to hide them, and to
blue, south. A strongly marked local shuffle their rosaries, and children stood
pride is visible among the inhabitants pale and mute before him. Form is
of each of these quarters ; and the everything in Roumania, and the exterior
lucky result is that there is no section formulas of religion are scrupulously
of Bucharest which does not boast at observe*! by all classes born in the faith
least one or two fine edifices, public or of the Orthodox Greek church. I have
private. often met a slow and solemn procession
Priests are plenty on the Mogosoi, — of priests bearing the sacrament to the
priests large and small,
and lean, fat dying. The principal offlciator marched
old and young. They are not always proudly ahead with swelling f rout ; he-
cleanly, I regret to say, and when their hind him followed meek curis and
tall lirimless hats and long black robes acolytes with eyes bent on the ground.
are stained and dusty they are not in- Companies of chanting priests were
teresting figures. But now and then one always meeting the Russians at impor-
is to be seen who seems the incarnate tant points both iu Bulgaria and Rouma-
nia in 1877, holding up the sacred surrounded by a vast cloister studded

images them to kiss, and offering
for with small towers. The domes and the
them bread and salt in token of welcome. roof of the basilica are covered with
Some of these ceremonies were notably lead. The church was restored in 1834,
impressive. Emperor and grand dukes but it is probable that the leaden roofs
bowed before the uplifted hand of the are much the same as those of which
rustic man of God, and the Emperor's the Patriarch of Antioch speaks in his
first act on arriving at Bucharest was to account of Bucharest, written about the
kiss the golden crucifix which the metro- middle of the seventeenth century.
politan archbishop held out to him. Macarius reported that this roof weighed
The Roumanian church is free from more than a hundred thousand pounds.
any foreign dominion whatsoever. The Inside the edifice is ornamented with
principality is divided into eight dioceses, much luxury and taste. The arabesques
of whicli two are archbishoprics, having especially remind one that he is in
their seats at Bucharest and Jassy, and South-eastern Europe. The frescos on
six are bishoprics. The Archbishop of the exterior walls are mostly crude, and
Bucharest is the chief, and is known by in some cases worse than ordinary.
the high-sounding title of " the Metro- They represent episodes from the
politan of Ilungro-Wallachia." The Apocalypse and from the Scriptures
clergy is divided into " secular" and in general. All Roumanian churches
" regular," each class comprising from have something of this exterior decora-
nine to ten thousand men. All other tion, and one or two of the churches
religions besides those of the established are brilliant in color. If a Puritan
church are as free as Even in America. could them in the midst of their
see
the persecuted Jew is not troubled on pretty gardens he would cry out against
account of his religion, and may have them as too gay for houses of prayer.
his choice of thirty synagogues and In the same cloister which surrounds
oratories in Bucharest to worship in. I the Metropolitan Church the National
fear that the Roumanian men are at Chamber of Deputies is installed.
heart as little devoted to Greek as Looking down in midsummer from the

Frenchmen are to Roman Catholicism. entrance to this legislative hall over the
In both countries it is thewomen who city, one can see nothing but a far-ex-
maintain the Church. The sumptuous tending ocean of verdure, pierced here
ceremonials of the Greek religion have a and there by a yellow tower or a white
powerful hold on the imaginative, ro- dome. Bucharest seems asleep among
mantic, sensuous Wallachian women. the trees.
It is but a short distance from the St. Spiridion the New. not far from
Podan Mogosoi, along a beautiful tree- the Metropolitan, is the most beautiful
bordered avenue, to the hill on which as well as the most costly church in
stands the Metropolitan Church of Bu- Roumania, always excepting the match-
charest. From the plain it looks more less Cathedral of Argesu. It is scarcely a
like a fortress than a house of God, for generation old, and nearly all the marbles
three stout towers surmount the huge and frescos in it are the work of young
structure, built in the form of a cross, Roumanian artists. The standards and
like most Greek churches, with the sceptres of the Fanariote beys, who for-
head turned towards the east, and merly came to the church which once
72.S EUROPE IN 'STORM AND CALM.
stood on this site to be crowned, are soldiers who took refuge in Roumania
preserved in St. Spiridion the New. after their disaster. Charles XII.,
With St. Spiridion the Old, which stands when he was transferred from Bender to
in the commercial quarter of Bucharest, Demotica, in 171.*!, passed a night at
a strange story is connected. The body Caltzea, which was then just finished.
of the voi'voda Constantine Hangerli, The hospodar, Constantine Brancovano,
who was beheaded by order of the Porte, went to meet the great man at the gates
in 1799, lies buried there. The man- of the city, and in the course of compli-
ner in which this unfortunate official mentary conversation observed, " We
met his death admirably illustrates the have heard that Your Majesty has slain
barbarous conduct of the Turks in as many as twenty Janissaries with your
their subject Danubian provinces. The own hand." " Ah " said Charles, mod- !
government at Constantinople was estly, "you know people always exag-

dissatisfied with the administration of gerate by at least one-half."
Constantine, whom it had placed in power On the MogosoT stands the Sarindav,
in Bucharest, and determined to replace a church in which is carefully enshrined
him. This is the way in which it was a so-called miraculous image of the
done: ( )ne day a Turkish official, ac- Blessed Virgin. Matthew Bassaraba, a
companied by a hideous negro and two [lions prince, built the church in 1634,
slaves, arrived in Bucharest, and went and Roumanian annals record him as
straight to the palace. Without ex- instrumental in the building of thirty-
plaining their mission they entered nine other sacred edifices. When the
Constanttne's apartment, and the negro prince or any other great, personage
killed him with a pistol-shot. The falls seriously ill the sacred image is
Turkish official then plunged bis knife taken from the Sarindav and borne to the
into the dead man's breast, cut oft his houseof the sufferer by priests, who ride
head, and threw the body, stripped in a gala carriage, before which lighted
naked, into the court-yard covered with candles are borne. The people in the
snow. This interesting party then re- streets kneel, or make profound obeisan-
tired, carrying off the slaughtered voices, as the image passes. If the sufferer
voda's head, and in course of time is a person in ordinary circumstances a

tin' Porte named a successor to Constan- monk in a hired carriage bears to him a
tine. The Roumanian population was small image which is a copy of the more
so horrified by this barbaric act that it wonderful one.
was some days before any one dared to Of the ninety-six Orthodox churches
remove the body. And this happened of Bucharest about one-half are his-
little more than three-quarters of a cen- torically interesting. Each has its
tury ago ! legend, its ballad, or its curious inci-

The memory of another Constantine, dent, which the parishioners are never
who was also beheaded by his ferocious tired of repeating to strangers. Most
masters, the Turks, after he had been of the intelligent inhabitants are familiar
hospodar of Roumania for a short time, with the story of the origin of the
is recalled by the Church of Caltzea, monastery church of Mihail Yoda, pict-
which is one of the interesting edifices uresquely situated on one of the few
of Bucharest. This church is said to eminences in Bucharest. " Vlad the
have been constructed by the Swedish Devil," a great ruler and fighter in the
Wallachian days, is believed to have under the noses of the pedestrians re-
founded this chinch in 1456. This Vlad minds the American of home, and that
was a wild fellow, and perhaps desired the press is absolutely free in Roumania.
to ease his conscience by establishing Even thing and everybody receive ample
churches. His career was tilled with and at all hours of the day
criticism,
deeds of the most diabolical ferocity, one hears the boys crying "Presa!"
and it is said that he once caused " Romanul! " li Somania Libera! " and
twenty-five thousand Turkish prisoners a dozen other journals more or less
to be impaled. 'The old church is now important. Bucharest has a large read-
rapidly crumbling to decay. ing population, but nine out of ten of
The barefooted and often bareheaded the village folk can neither read nor
newsboy, rushing wildly along beneath write, and look upon a newspaper as the
the awnings in the heated streets and most utterly superfluous of things.
thrusting sheets damp from the press
CHAPTER ETGHTY-THREE.
Tlic Garden of Herestreu. — Gypsy Music. — Roumanian Amusements. — Prince Gortschakoff at P.uclia-
rest. — — Roumanian Houses. — rioiesci. — A Funeral in Roumania. — A Bit of
General Ignaticff.
History. — A Liberal Constitution. — Kin^c Charles. — The Upgrowth of Literature.
TIM*', gypsy's eyes are wonderfully Wallachian beer. A few semi-civilized

brown and soft, and as he lavs tillers of the soil are galloping home-
aside his guzla, the musical instrument ward 01. their merry little horses, whoso
from which lie litis just evoked such pas- breakneck pace seems likely to bring
sionate sounds, and approaches us, ex- misfortune to the unsteady riders. Wine
tending his lean hand and shrugging his has flowed in rivulets in the shops in the
shoulders with deprecatory air, it is hard shabby streets just outside the town, for
to send him away with an angry word. it is a " market-day." At Baniassa,
A few bafii content him, and he returns once a favorite suburban resort for Bu-
to the shade of a friendly tree, and, with charest's fashionable folk, a few thou-
his companions, sings a round of deli- sand sturdy Russians are encamped, and
cious melodies, each and all filled with a hum arising from their tented city is
wild and plaintive chords, with tender borne on the evening breeze to listeners
melancholy, and a rude eloquence almost a mile away.
surprising. Within this magic close of Herestreu
We are seated in the garden of He- on" forgets everything hut the entranc-
restreu, outside the city of Bucharest. ing melody of the dark-skinned vaga-
Herestreu is an oasis crowded with de- bond choir squatted under the trees.
lights in the middle of a comparatively Who would have suspected that beneath
uninteresting plain. When the rich these scowling brows, these uneasy eyes,
southern moonlight showers its glory these foreheads crowned with masses
on the green sward and among the odor- of inky hair, lay such power of poetic
ous vines and flowers the beauty and expression ? The men are marvels :
fashion of the Roumanian capital seek when they sing they seem inspired ;
respite from the toils of the parlor and their faces are transfigured ; their hands
the ball-room in this charming spot. tremble; their lips quiver with excite-
For half a mile round about, pretty vil- ment. On the throbbing current of their
las suiTOundcd by well-kept gardens sensuous song one is borne into a region
arc scattered at rare intervals ; but with of enchantment. One hears the musical
this exception, the stretch of laud is flow of the great Danube past the mighty
barren and uninviting. At a place crags and through the vast valleys where
where four roads meet, a long, one-story Trajan once camped and fought and
inn, with grotesque figures painted on worked ; one sees the misty blue of the
ita stable-door, rears its abject front. hills over which the Hungarian hunter
In the yard of this caravansary a few tramps merrily at sunrise to the refrain
slatternly girls arc romping, and one or of the horn one seats oneself in nooks
;
two peasants sit moodily drinking sour where the purple grape-clusters move
heavily to and fro above him ; one men and women both act as if they were
stands by the foot of some moss-grown not sorry when the dance is over and
cross in an ancient village and watches they can relapse into their normal condi-
youths and maidens treading the curious tion of siouchiness. Sometimes one
mazes of the Hora Tanz. So subtle chances upon a downright merry com-
is the spell that one who is under its pany; but it is the exception. I went
influence feels a contempt for the tame one afternoon to a fair in the outskirts
sensations of more thoroughly civilized of Bucharest, having been informed that
Western Europe. The mystery, the it would be a gay spectacle and could
voluptuousness, the dreaminess of the only be seen once a year. After infi-
Orient seize ou him and claim him for

their own.
Presently the music dies away ; the
clear, piercing tones of the youngest of
the singers stop shortly 311st as they are
taking a flight inThe calmmid-air.
after melody is almost startling.
this
Twilight is coming rapidly. I sit and
muse for an hour the charm holds long

;
and well. At last I look up and sec the

gypsy musicians stretched upon their
backs, with their dusky faces turned
toward the veiled sky. They are fast
asleep, and unless the proprietor turns
them out of the garden they will remain
so until morning. They seem to have
exhaled all their strength in their song.
When they wake they will wander to the
nearest stream, throw aside their ex-
tremely scanty garments, and plunge and
lie in uncouth positions in the muddy
ROUMANIAN TYPES.
flood, as their friend the water-buffalo
does. After this simple toilet they will
tramp before the sun is hot, breakfast on nite difficulties in finding the place indi-
a crust and a fragment of old cheese, cated, all that I discovered was a series
and sing again wherever they are per- of wooden booths, in which languid and
mitted so to do. sallow women, none of whom were emi-

The Roumanian common folk have no nent for beauty or smartness of attire,
very definite ideas of amusement and were selling cloths, printed handkerchiefs,
compared with those of va-
recreation as carpets woven by the industrious wives
There is a certain
rious other nations. of villagers near the capital, and articles
amount of grace and a rude rhythm in of imported from the Palais
fantasy
the Hora, — the dance which the peas- Royal, in Paris. There were few buyers,
ants indulge in at night in rustic caba- and the sellers appeared more anxious to
rets, or on festal days in the towns, — forget the dull September heat in sleep
but there is not much merriment in it. The than to dispose of their wares. I fancied
that the war and its sorrows (for the famous, when an indiscreet fellow-coun-
Roumanians had then just crossed tlie tryman or a pushing diplomat took
Danube to join the Russians in the siege advantage of his apparent good-nature
of Plevna) had deadened the customary to he rather daring. Prince Gortscha-
gayctv ; but friends in Bucharest assured koff showed his age. Me walked rather
me that was as lively as usual."
--it feebly, and generally appeared on the
The terrible extremes of the Roumanian street at Bucharest supported on the
climate keep the people from that disarm of some one who was young and
play of vivacity which one expects of the strong. His temper was cheerful in a
southern temperament. They bake in surprising degree nothing seemed to as-
;
summer, and they freeze in winter, tonish him. The series of alarming
They love music, and through all the rumors which came to him from beyond
pleasant months they crowd the gardens, the Danube, after General Gourko's re-
wherc regimental bands play, and singers turn from his impetuous raid across the
retail the latest fragments of opera Balkans, were enough to try the nerves
1
bouffe. •• Itasca's " and the " Swiss of fresher and more vigorous men than
Union" — little parks laid out in the the aged premier; but his cheerfulness
Austrian fashion, with restaurants and was always remarked just at moments
beer-fountains attached — possess open- which seemed gloomiest to other friends
air theatres. That year the various of the Russian cause. In his relations
entertainments for the purpose of gain- with the Roumanian authorities — rela-
ing funds for the hospitals brought all tions naturally of extreme delicacy,
Bucharest to " Rasca's." because anything like pressure on the
The pretty Princess Elizabeth, with officials of the tiny State was far from
the ladies of her court and hundreds of his thoughts, and firmness might at any
exquisitely beautiful young girls, — beau- moment be construed by the susceptible
tiful. alas! only to fade ere their worn- people into arbitrary demand, he gave —
anhood has begun, —
wandered in the proof of a gentle consideration which
shady aisles with scores of brilliantly made him both respected and loved. It
uniformed Russian dukes, princes, and is to be feared that General Ignatieff did
barons. All the dignitaries of Bucha- not give the Roumanians the same treat-
rest, from the minister of foreign affairs incut. If the rumors be true he was
to the prefect of police, were to be seen not mealy-mouthed when he arrived
in an evening's promenade. The music in Bucharest to ask for the recession of
on such occasions was exceptionally Bessarabia to Russia, and hinted that
good the acting and singing execrable,
; they would be wiser to give it in cx-
— a legacy of histrionic horrors, from the change for something else than to see it
slums of Paris, St. Petersburg, Moscow, taken violently from them. There is no
and Odessa, having been forced upon the denying the fact that the Roumanians
unfortunate citizens of Bucharest. Yen- were from time to time rather preten-
erable Prince Gortschakoff did not hesi- tions in their relations to the Russians;
tate to exhibit himself in this garden and that some of their requests were de-
from time to time, to laugh with the nied simply because it would have beeu
brightest of the maidens, and to utter impossible to grant them. Atone time
those singularly non-committal answers it seemed as if they delighted to place
to "hailing questions " for which he is obstacles in the way of the Russians;
EUROT'E IX STORM AXD CALM. 733
but tlicy soon began to work in unison them and the inquisitive pig of the
with their Northern friends when they locality rooted them out. But this was
learned that nothing less than the demoli- no more remarkable than the strange
tion of the Turkish power in Europe was nest in which a whole Bulgarian family,
contemplated. 1 1 1 v hosts in Tirnova, slept nightly. It
A Roumanian house is a perfect laby- was a species of little fortress, con-
rinth stair-ways, small and large,
of structed of carpets, cushions, and the
lighted and uulighted of balconies over-
; garments of the father, mother, statu-
hanging other houses and of long pas- ; esque daughter, and " small brother,"
sages open at both ends. At night the who were all ensconced there
and it ;
servants, men and women, sleep on the was in the entrance-way, so that no one
floor on these balconies and in the cor- could go out at early morning without
ridors, and the traveller entering after stepping over, and sometimes unwarily
midnight for the first time one of the upon, the unconscious sleepers.
populous mansions of Bucharest might A mystery, which must forever remain
readily fancy that the way to his unexplained, is the magical manner in
bedroom was strewn with corpses. He which the man-servant, who is usually
would have to step over the cook, who, dressed in white tunic and trousers, and
with a single blanket thrown about her who in the day appears clean and well
portly form, would perhaps be dream- clothed, manages to keep up appear-
ing and imn muring a voluble Wallachian ances after sleeping and grovelling every
prayer ; to steer cautiously around the night in these same garments on the
maid-of-all-work, on whose olive-colored dusty floor. It is wonderful, too. that
face, framed in a night of untidy locks, one does not hear them complain of
the moon might be casting its dangerous colds, of rheumatism, or of fever. In
beams ; and, escaping this Seylla, he winter they inutile themselves in sheep-
would confn nt the Charybdis of the skin or in thick blankets made in the
serving-man, who wears a long knife in mountain hamlets and sold for a trifle.
his belt, and whose temper is bad when There are numerous evidences of for-
he awakes in a fright. Awaking before mer Turkish domination to be seen in
dawn one morning at Ploiesci, I heard a Bucharest, — perhaps none more striking
strange rustling sound on my balcony, than the servile submission of the masses
and, peering from the bedroom window, to any small authority, whether it be
saw the whole landing loaded witli the employed in an offensively arbitrary
ungainly forms of wagoners, who had manner or within decent limits. The
come in during the night, and who slept, people, although living under a consti-
shrouded in their sheepskin mantles, as tution wonderfully liberal for Europe,
if they reposed upon couches of "roses stillshow that they have once been sub-
besprinkled with dew." Others, who jected to the rule of a country whose
had found the balcony occupied, were only law is the sword. I was amazed,
snoring comfortably on heaps of soiled on the occasion of the arrival of Czar

straw in the very centre of the barn-yard, Alexander in Bucharest, to see the gen-
as the dirty enclosure known as the darmes of the city driving peasants out
"court "of the hotel would have been of the way of the procession with good,
called in America, and were not likely stinging blows from their whips or with
to waken until the fowls hopped over their hands. The fellows thus roughly
treated merely shrank away, looking re- Slow and solemn dirges are sometimes
proachfully fit their tormentors. the accompaniment of these funeral
Turkish architecture peeps out from parties, bands or portions of bands
street-corners in the Roumanian capital. according their services. There is a
The peddlers of fruit and vegetables cany wonderful wealth of affection in the im-
their wares suspended from the long, pulsive Roumanian character, — an in-
ungainly, and inconvenient yoke which tense love forborne, family, and friends;
one sees everywhere in Turkey and ; and grief in affliction is violent, un-
some of the most palatable of Mussulman reasoning, often alarmingly despairing.
dishes hold their place still against the A mighty cry of anguish went up
innovations French and Austrian
of from the stricken little country when at
cookery. Probably Romania Libera, least a fourth of the brave army of
as her citizens now like to call the liber- Roumania was slaughtered in front
ated State, will endeavor hereafter to of Plevna, and for a time it seemed as
dispense with everything which reminds if the stay-at-home relatives would fairly
itof Ottoman rule and Osmanli tyranny. revolt unless the government ordered
I do not think that the Roumanians of the survivors to return across the Dan-
the present generation fec-l any of that ube and risk themselves no more. But
intense hatred of the Turk felt by the this unreasonable freak of temper was
Servians, but they fully recognize his fortunately of short duration.

unfitness for contact with modern civil- Roumania's history has been stormy
ization, and are glad that he is to be and full of striking incidents. The
banished from the countries which he country which is properly Roumania
refuses to improve. to-day was the home of the ancient
A funeral Ron mania is somewhat
in Dacians, who were of Thraeian origin,
startling to him who sees it for the first and bore a marked resemblance to the
time. The dead are borne through the Gauls. Trajan came with his terrible
streets, lying uneoffined, in a hearse legions, and the Dacians succumbed,
whose glass sides permit every one to and were swept like chaff before the
see the last, of ] r mortality. If it be valorous Romans, who were flushed with
a man he is dressed in his finest clothes ; victory and a thirst for new conquests.
if a woman — and especially if a young The Dacians had peopled the sections
one — she is robed in white, and gar- now known as Moldavia, Wallachia,
hinds of flowers, natural and artificial, the Banat, Transylvania, the Bukovina
crown her tresses or repose upon her and Bessarabia ; and as they disap-
bosom. Priests bearing the sacred peared their places were taken by the
emblems and clad in robes such as they colonists whom
Trajan summoned from
wear when officiating at the altar pre- Italy ami Spain. These colonists were
cede the mourning friends, man)' of the ancestors of the people who have
whom follow on foot. There is some- finallybecome the Roumanian race.
thing ghastly and revolting in this For a century or two the new province
spectacle of the dead carried thus enjoyed such prosperity that the chroni-
through the crowded streets. Wher- clers of the time speak of it as Dacia
ever a procession passes all vehicles Felix. Then came the invading Goth,
not connected with it stop, and the who drove out or frightened into re-
drivers reverently cross themselves. moval large numbers of the colonists.

But the majority of tlicm remained, liv- epoch," from 171G to 1S22, in which
ing among the Goths, but not mingling they were goverened by foreign rulers
with them, until still other invaders named aud maintained iu power by the
came and dispersed both Goth and Porte and the third and present that
;
Daco-Roman. The latter took to the which is sometimes called the " Rou-
mountain regions, and in the great re- manian Renaissance," denoted by the re-
cesses of the Carpathians nourished into turn to native rule, by the recognition
vigor a national life which was des- of the rights of the country by the great
tined to have numerous reverses, but to European powers, and at last by the
support them all with hardihood. Tow- declaration of independence of 1877.
ards the latter half of the thirteenth It is noteworthy that all the countries
century the real Roumanians, who had originally peopled by the colonist ances-
of course taken something of the Dacian tors of the Roumanians now have in
character from intermarriage, came down them large numbers of people speaking
to the plains and begau to assert them- the Roumanian tongue aud if King ;
selves. Under the command of two Charles could get a slice of Hungary, a
chiefs, Rodolph the Black and Dragoch, good bit of Austria, and could have kept
they established the principalities of the Bessarabia deeded to Roumania at
"Wallachia and Moldavia. This, by the time of the humiliation of Russia by
Roumanian historians, is always spoken the powers, but which she was compelled
of as " the descent," and is their start- to give back as the price of her liberties
ing-point. Wallachia was doomed to to the great Northern power, lie would
possess an independent existence but a find himself ruling over more than ten
short time : in 1393 the Turk came in, millions of subjects.
and the principality placed itself under Itodd that these Danubian folk,
is
the "protection" of the Torte. The who have borrowed so much from the
Ottomans gradually strengthened their French, did not think it worth while, by
influence until it became tyrannical rule, some clause in their constitution, to
but not before there had been many trammel the press and the spoken word.
splendid revolts. In those wild days They did not, and the result is that
uprose " Mad the Devil," he who King Charles knows exactly what the
scourged the Turks and at one time im- people think of him whenever he under-
paled twenty-live thousand Turkish pris- takes a measure likely to be unpopular.
oners. No editor or speaker feels called upon
In 1511 Moldavia capitulated to the to mince his phrases in discussing the
Turks. Her people had been able to inmates of the palace, the ministers, the
resist for a much longer time than the judges, or the general. There is a
Wallachians because of their mountain '•Red" party in the country, an 1 it has
fastnesses ; but the fatal day came for its say as often as it chooses, and some-
them also. The history of the two sis- times has power in its hands. King
ter principalities for the next three Charles came to the throne at the
centuries and a half may be divided into close of a very excited and dangerous
three periods — the first that during period in Roumanian affairs. Naturally
which, although under Ottoman suze- enough there had been a revolution at
rainty, they were governed by native Bucharest in IS is, when the great demo-
princes; the second the " Fanariote cratic wind swept over Europe and
73G EUROPE I.V STORM AND CALM.
stirred even the binds on the far-stretch- Turkey, and Russia were the nations
ing plains by the Danube to a sense of recognizing and welcoming Roumania to
their political degradation. A liberal the world's family.
constitution was and the
proclaimed, In a previous chapter I have spoken
national party daily grew strong and of the national representation. The
courageous. But. the Turks were not election of senators by two colleges
inclined to see their rule shaken off, and composed exclusively of persons having
they pushed Omar Pacha with a large large fortunes is perhaps open to
army to the banks of the Danube, de- criticism; and it might have been as
posed the rulers who bad succeeded to well to have given universal suffrage in
the short-lived "provisional govern- its unadulterated form to the whole
ment" of revolution, and presently people, instead of compelling those who
occupied the two principalities con- only pay small taxes to be content with
jointly with the Russians. After the inferior facilities for expressing their
various foreign occupations of the choice. The King is of course invio-
troublous times preceding, during, and late ; the eight ministers are responsible
at the close of the Crimean war, Ron- to the country ; and, judging from the
mania had the satisfaction of seeing its very free criticisms which I heard made
historic rights recognized, and of finding upon their most innocent actions, each
its privileges placed under the collective 1
of them earns his salary, which is twelve
guarantee of the great powers. In thousand francs (twenty-four hundred
1.SG1 the temporary union of Moldavia dollars) yearly. All Roumania is di-
and Wallachia was proclaimed at Bu- vided into thirty-three judicial districts,
charest. Three years later there was a presided and these
over by prefects,
coup (VKlat. The reigning prince dis- districts one hun-
are subdivided into
solved the National Assembly and sub- dred and sixty-four wards, which in turn
mitted a new project of law to the are partitioned into two thousand and
people. This prince was a Colonel eighty parishes.
Couza, who was elected in 1859. He King Charles, a German of the best
abdicated in 1866, after what may be type, —
brave, cultured, and sympa-
fairly considered a successful reign, and thetic, —
good-humoredly studied the
in April of that year Prince Charles Roumanian language, and finally be-
came in, with the shadow of the already came master of it. This flattered his
menacing power of Germany behind new subjects, to whom he has attached
him. He was no sooner firmly seated himself in many other ways. In 1869
on the throne than the present constitu- he married the present queen, Eliza-
tion was proclaimed, and the union of beth, of German birth and she also ;
Wallachia and Moldavia was confirmed, had the talent to make herself beloved.
recognized, and guaranteed by Europe. She has adopted the national costume
Roumania was thus created ; it re- — which, by the way, is exceedingly
mained for her only to emancipate her- beautiful — as her dress on state occa-
self from the hateful suzerainty of the sions, groups the beauty and fashion
Porte, to which greedy government she of the land around her, has given a
was compelled to pay a million francs healthy check to the absenteeism which
of tribute money yearly. Austria, was fast making a second Ireland of
France. Great Britain, Italy, Prussia, Roumania; and in the terrible days of
1877, when the army \v:is fighting the the wrecks of noble edifices scattered
Turks, she worked unweariedly in the along the slopes and in the glens prove
hospitals, inspiring all other ladies by that there were oilier giant builders be-
her example. sides Manol the Unlucky in the elder
The palace in which King Charles days. In the ancient metropolitan
resides in winter is a large mansion, church of Tirgoviste is the tomb of
almost wholly devoid of exterior orna- Bishop Stephen, the first man who
ment. 'When the Han Constantino printed books in the Rotimaniau lan-
Golescu was building it, at the begin- guage and there also are the tombs of
;
ning of this century, his father came 1<> the famous Cantacnzene family. The
examine it, and remarked, " My son, leaden roof of the church was melted up
you are foolish to build such enormous for bullets in 1821, and was replaced by
rooms: yon can never light them." one made of iron. King Charles can
"Father," answered Constantine, who reach this old and moss-grown town by
foresaw many other things besides the a railway ride of about fifty English
introduction of gas into Roumania, " I miles from Bucharest to GaVcoci, and a
am building for the future." six hour's journey thence along pretty
Goleseo was a noble patriot, and country roads bordered with villages,
reallyhud the foundations of the " Rou- on the roofs of whose houses the eternal
manian Renaissance." The national in- stork clatters and stints. To-day Tir-
dependence was born and nourished in goviste has only live thousand inhabi-
this sombre old palace. Cotroceni, the tants ; but there are evidences that it was
summer residence of royalty, was diht a once very populous. No chronicler has
monastery. It is more than two cen- given an exact account of its origin:
turies old, and owes its origin to the tradition and history arc at odds on this
following circumstances: Two powerful point; but seems certain that Mirzea
it
families, the Cantaeuzencs and the the Elder, who

is a mighty figure in the
Ghikas, were at deadly enmity, and annals of Wallachia and who became the
Cherban Cantacnzene, tracked by his ruler of that province towards the close
enemies through the forests which in of the fourteenth century, transferred the
old days covered the hills around Bucha- seat cf government from Curtea Argcsu,
rest, built a monastery on lie spot where t where Manol and his companions had
he had successfully hidden until a truce long before begun the great cathedral, to
was declared. Although the old pile has Tirgoviste. Mirzea was a notable war-
been restored it is still in a dilapidated rior, but he does not seem to have pre-
condition, and the King must have an vented an incursion of barbarians which
easily contented mind to accept it as an nearly cost the new town its existence.
agreeable summer home. He can, if he In the sixteenth century Michael the
pleases, go and dream away the hottest Brave fought a terrible battle with the
of the merciless summer days in the Turks on the plain near the town, and
lovely valley where stand the ruins of defeated the enemy. A century later a
Tirgoviste, the ancient capital ofWalla- Roumanian prince massacred all Turks
chia, deserted more than a hundred and found in the neighborhood, and a year
fifty years ago for less picturesque and after this occurrence the Mussulmans
more unhealthy Bucharest. Tirgoviste committed such terrible reprisals that
is one of the loveliest spots on earth, and Tirgoviste was decimated. At the end
of the seventeenth century one of the personage than Rodolphthe Black, chief
Cantacuzenes constructed a superb of the Wallachians at the time of the
castle near the town. It is now only a famous • descent " from the mountains.
confused mass of ruined subterraneous Roumania boasts another ancient castle,
passages, chaotic walls, and massive por- " Campu Lungii," at the foot of the
tals; but the shepherds in the valley Carpathians on a plain traversed by the
point up to it, and with bated breath tell Dimbovitza river, on its winding way to
the stranger that i( is the castle of the Bucharest. Here once stood a noble
ancient voivodas, and that it is haunted cathedral several centuries old, but it
by the spirits of the departed. At Tir- was thrown down by an earthquake in

goviste there are one or two important 1819, and has been replaced by one of
military establishments, and an arsenal the most ordinary productsof the modern
lias been improvised in an old monastery architect's imagination.
said to have been founded by no leas a
KUROri] IN STORM AND CALM. 739
CHAPTER EIGHTY-FOUR.
The Early Roumanians. — The Language. — Greelc Plays. — Agriculture. — The "Minor Towns of
Rouraania.- -Jassy. — On the Bessarabian Frontier. — Galatz. —National Manners. — Roumanian
Monasteries.
RESPECT for the genius of the early of works by Roumanian authors printed
Roumanians increases at each step in the Slavic language. It is worthy of
which one takes among the ruins of their remark that in Roumania, as in (ireece,
castles and churches, monasteries ami the literary renaissance preceded the
fortresses. no builder of the
There is political revival and the declaration of
race to-day who could accomplish any independence. A young Roumanian —
of the works that seem to have been whose mastery of the English language
done with case in the olden time The is so perfect that it seems almost im-
peasant puzzles his dull brain to con- possible to believe that he has never
struct a flimsy cottage with thatched been either England or America
in —
roof and wattled sides, — a trap which lias made a translation of Hamlet into
would afford but small shelter in a more his native tongue, and the pretty lan-
uncertain climate. Colossal men of guage seems quite as well adapted as

great deeds were the lathers, but there Italian for expressing the majestic verse
is almost no record of them. No written and grandiose sentiment of the monarch
account in Roumanian can !»• found with of poets.
an earlier date than (lie last half of the The Roumanian is an agreeable lan-
seventeenth century- After that time guage, hut it is passing curious. When
there was a decadence of the small ] first heard it spoken it seemed to
literary acquirements of the struggling me was listening to
that I French or
nation. In (he first quarter of the Spanish. hearkened intently, expect-
I
present century the Roumanian could ing to understand hut. did not gather
; I
scarcely claim the dignity of a written a single idea. It was vexatious, for it
language. Gradually men of talent awoke sounded familiar. Just, as T was begin-
to the necessity of a great effort for a ning to feel certain of the meaning of
literary revival. The language to-day the speaker, around some dubious cor-
has not a. positively settled orthography : ner, at a breakneck pace, dashed the
one journalist spells a disputed word i:i reckless sentences and were beyond my
one mamier. while his rival insists upon reach. People are excessively voluble
another; thus much confusion arises in Roumania (especially when cursing
and many comical blunders ensue. A their horses) ; but a. stranger with a good
newly made ll Academy " hard at work i knowledge of Latin ami either Italian
upon a grammar and a dictionary, and or French could learn the language in
romances, poems, and historical works a few months. It is derived directly
have been published, hut. are read by from the rustic' Latin which Trajan's
onhy a very few persons. In the old colonists spoke, hut mingled of course
book-stalls in Bucharest I found editions v, it'.i thousands of words and phrases
borrowed from the dialects of the peo- may be considered permanent, although
pies who inhabited the country when the possibly many of the prominent Greek
conquering Romans came. The Latin citizens of Bucharest would net consent
which the colonists brought into these to this proposition. The Greek society
provinces was the Latin of the centre of the principality is highly cultured,
and north of and the neighboring
Italy refined, and welt-to-do. 1 attended sev-
eountries, which had already undergone oral representations of Greek plays in
considerable modification. There were Bucharest. One of them, which was
great numbers of people from the see- given before a very large audience, — in
tions now known as Spain and Portugal, which, by the way, 1 did not observe a.
and there were also Gauls anion;.;- these single Russian soldier or officer, — was a
colonists ; so that it is not astonishing that spirited drama representing the uprising
words clearly of Spanish or Gallic origiu of the Greeks against their oppressors
are found side by side to-day with words and foreshadowing the call to arms for
of indisputable Peninsular origin. Da- the succor of those Greeks in Thes-
cian words arc still found, and the salv and Crete still under the barbarous
language is deeply indebted both to the domination of the Turk. Then' are ten
Slavic and the Greek tongues. The thousand Greeks in Roumania, and they
Slavic language almost displaced the have been of substantial service in proinot-
Roumanian at the time <>f the great ing insurrection in the provinces of Tur-
sehism in the fifteenth century. The key in Europe. Many a hard blow struck
Moldavians were so indignant at the for freedom has been rendered possible
decision of the Council of Florence that by their generous gifts of money. Vol-
the\ deposed their bishop, rejected the nines in Greek a re occasionally printed
Latin characters which they had hither- in Roumania, and theatre programmes
to used in all their printed books, and ami newspapers, in the prettiest of (Ire-
adopted the Slavic letters as well as cian type, are seen Oil all the Cafe tallies.
liturgy. It. is well that the Roman al- Line, Charles is earnest in endeavors
I
lialict was resumed at. a later day, and to promote the growth of literature,
it is to be hoped (hat some time the arid offered a handsome prize for the
Russians will be willing to dispense best history of tin' participation of
with their eccentric letters, which pin- Roumania in the war of 1*77. The lan-
duce such a confusing effect on the mind guagc is well adapted to poetical expres-
of him who sees them for the first time, sion : it is graceful, flexible, and lends
The blindest German type is as nothing itself readily to the conceits of metaphor
besides Muscovite monstrosities,
these and the rhythmical fancies so indispensa-
The Slavic was long the official language ble to true poetry. There is something
in Roumanian land. Greek had its of the wildness and the weirdness of the
day under the Fanariots at the end of great plains on which it is spoken in its
theseventeenthcentury and so rapid was ; form. In objurgation and invective it is
the progress of its incursion that in less so wonderfully elastic that the stage-
than a century it had invaded the court, drivers of the Pacific coast and of Texas
the capital, the schools, the legal tribu- would from the held in despair
retire
mils, and the whole administration. The after having once heard a Wallachian
reaction began with (his century, and teamster when thoroughly angry with his
the triumph of the Roumanian speech horses. The utter whimsicality of the
EUROPE IN STORM A\D CALM. 741
expressions used, nnd with which one Jassy are somewhat less enthusiastic
becomes familiar in travelling day after than they would have been had not abso-
day through the country, wns some- lutely pouring showers of rain partially
times so overwhelming that my compan- damped them, I left the old metropolis
ions and I were compelled to roar with of the ancient Dacians convinced that its
laughter when we should have reproved people were and

enterprising, liberal,
our driver for want of respect both for likely to have an important commercial
us and his beasts. future. The principal streets are hand-
Seven hundred thousand families live somely paved with asphalt, lai i down
by agriculture in Roumania, and all the as well as in Paris ; here and there I
others who labor are engaged in trade, spied a mansion of which Fifth Avenue
for manufactures make no progress. No or Beacon street might lie proud; and
native capitalist will risk competition the public buildings were models of so-
with Austria. England, Russia, and lidityand comfort. The hotels do not
France. If the government would hut merit the same compliment. thought I
intimate to the three hundred thousand the court-yard of the inn at Jassy the
gypsies in the principality that they most uninviting place I had ever entered
must work or ho treated as vagabonds when came into it one rainy afternoon
I :
are served in other countries, production the mud was almost knee-deep; the
might lie remarkably increased. The horses floundered through it, snorting
gypsy has mechanical talent, and would angrily ; some half-broken mvjiks, clad
make a good operative. But the Rou- in greasy fur coats, were harnessing vi-
manians say that he would break his cious-looking beasts, putting the high
heart if obliged to labor for a certain wooden collars, decorated with bells, on
number of hours daily ; that he would them I began to fancy tint I had
forget his task, and wander away in the made a mistake in my reckoning and had
track of anysunbeam without the slight- slipped over the Russian frontier. As I
est idea he was doing anything

that tramped across the wooden gallery which
wrong. About three-fifths of the enor- ran around the exterior of the hotel's
mous amount of cereals produced in the second story, servants in blue flowing
country are consumed at home the rest ; trousers tucked into enormous boots,
is exported to neighboring countries. A in red or green blouses tied at the throat
bad season for crops and a pestilence with gayly colored cords, and with bushy
among the cattle would place hundreds hair hanging low down upon their fore-
of thousands of Roumanians in danger heads, rose from their seats before their
of starvation. The country must have masters' doors and stood bowing obse-
manufactures before it can attain to any- quiously until I had passed. It seemed
thing like solid prosperity. like a leaf out of one of Tourgueneff's
It is strange that a land where manu- transcripts of Russian life. In the vast
facturing is almost unknown should have bedroom offered me stood a mighty
a number of populous towns.
large porcelain stove, — a veritable monument,
Galatz, on the Danube, has eighty thou- extending to the ceiling, and provided
sand inhabitants ; Jassy, which may fairly with such a labyrinth of whitewashed
be considered the chief city of Upper pipes that it resembled an organ rathei
Roumania (old Moldavia), has ninety than a heating apparatus. In the din-
thousand. Although my impressions of ing-room the landlord seemed astonished
742 EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM
because the small glass of cordial with prouil fronl in Jassy. The inhabitants
which the Russians usually begin meal :i tell you with much emphasis that it is
was refused. lie commented on the re- " under the invocation of St. Gregory,
fusal, seemed to think that it argued a St. Chrysostom, and St. John," and
lack of good sense, and presently asked swell with enthusiasm as they point to
me if I were an Austrian. its lighl and graceful towers, the ara-
II is i
: • > i astonishing that Jassy has a, besques on the gigantic walls, and the
Russian imprint, for it is but a short silver lamps in the three long and sombre
distance from the frontier of the great naves, lighting but faintly the portrait
northern empire, and has been occupied of the church's founder, ••Iiasil the
many times by the troops of the Czars. Wolf," whose very history most of the
As in war of 1877 it was the first
the citizens have never heard, but who, they
place which a force was thrown
into vaguely say, •• was a great man and had
after the various passages of the l'ruth, seventeen children." The Three Ilie-
IVom the beginning of the eighteenth rarchs and St. Nicholas — a monastery
century to the middle of the nineteenth, built in 1 171 by Stephen the Great — are
At the time of my spring visit Russian the chief wonders of Jassy. Princes
officers were already there, buying forage and their retainers have moved to Bueha-
for the army soon to arrive. A French rest, and their mansions, dignified with
writer recounts that <>n one occasion a the title of " palaces," lu.vc fallen into
Muscovite General (in times past, be it the hands of the Jews. The Hebrew
understood) learned that there were not thrives at Jassy. T had the honor of
cattle enough to draw the transport being presented to the principal banker
wagons from Jassy on towards the Dan- of that persuasion in the town, and sat,
ube. " Well, then, we must hitch 11)1 with him ill his office on Sunday to see
the bovards" (the Roumanian aristoc- him attend to business. Long-bearded

racy), said this lively General. The men. clad in skull-caps and gabardines,
Prince do Ligne, in his correspondence hovered about, seeking his presence
from Jassy, •" 1
7ss . tells a good many eagerly, and a group of them engaged
stories which do not reflect credit on the ill conversation ornamented and em-
coiiduct of the Russians, Perhaps a phasized by stately gestures was unlike
certain rude northern impatience of the anything to be seen in western Europe.
slow, shirtless character of the Roiima- Poor Jews and indescribably filthy and
nian peasantry was the cause of some rheumatic gypsy beggars abounded, and
severe Russian measures. made the air ring with their appeals for
Jassy, like Bucharest, is very rich in alms The melancholy sect heretofore
churches and in relies. Roumania is alluded to as self-mutilators flourishes
everywhere provided with about ten in this town and possesses a church,
times as many churches as the people These people were driven out of Russia,
can use. The tonus of religion in all but have never been refused permission
sections of the country seem to promote to remain in Roumania or in Bulgaria,
the growth of innumerable monasteries, in which latter country there are many.
shrines, cathedrals, anil minor houses Wretched as the environs of Jassy
of worship. The "Three Hierarehs," appear when soaked with rain, when the
the only worthy rival of the massive and cottages seem about to float away
exquisite cathedral of ArgCsu, rears its through the tall grass, and when the
EUROPE IN STORM AXI> CALM. 743
philosophical stork, calmly perched on worthies hibernate in their villages.
one le<j, seems to have decided, after They protect themselves from the cold
due survey, that it is about time to go by sheepskin coats and huge shaggy
somewhere else, —
in summer these same mantles. The women are dull, submis-
fields arc ravishiugly beautiful. The sive,and rarely pretty. There are one
hills are covered with flowers, the plains hundred and forty thousand inhabitants
with abundant crops. Riding along the in Bessarabia, and King ( lharles thought
roads leading to Bucharest, or out toward so much of them that he Considered him-
the Austrian Bukovina, one comes every by taking the Dobrudscha.,
self a loser
few minutes upon some rustic hind who which gave him two hundred thousand
is in dress and figure almost the exact subjects.
counterpart of the captive warriors to be Between Bucharest and .lassy, on or
seen on the bas-reliefs of the famous near the line of rail leading to the Rus-
Trajan Column. The type has changed sian frontier, there are many important
little if any in twenty centuries. It and interesting towns, rendered doubly
seems impossible that such specimens of attractive of late by the fact that war
humanity as these blank-faced tillers has just swept through them or hovered
should make the landscape blossom thus near them. The hind is rich with sou-
with plenty. But they do it, and if venirs of other campaigns than those of
educated would accomplish far greater Russians. The peasant now and then
wonders. unearths some coin or bronze or brass
From .lassy a picturesque and little- ornament bearing the Alexan- effigy of
frequented road leads to Bolgrad, a der the Great, who once made an expe-
quaint town of ten thousand inhabitants, dition into Dacia. On mountain slopes
situated in that portion of Bessarabia are the traces of old cities whose his-
ceded by a treaty to Russia, only to he tory no man knows, and excavations
re-ceded, by the Treaty of Paris, to Mol- among the half-buried walls of the long-
davia, and to handed over to
lie again forgotten temples and palaces bring to
Russia by King Charles of Roumania, 1 i Li" 1 1 1 potteries, glass, bones of domestic
in exchange for the Dobrudscha, which animals, stone weapons, and bits of effi-
had been wrested from the Turks in gies in metal, so corroded that they can-
Bulgaria. The population in this Bessa- not be distinguished. The earth is here
rabian land, which Russia lias so long a vast tomb of dead-and-gone civiliza-
coveted, is distinctly Roumanian. The tions, wars, and conquests ; it is tranquil
men are rather more manly in bearing as the centuries roll on, awaiting the
than their brethren of other sections; signal for another period of fruition.
they have broad foreheads, frank eves. At the noted Barbosi — one of the first
long, coarse hair, dense black mustaches, places to become celebrated in 1877,
well-turned limbs, and generally carry because the Russians seized upon a
weapons. But they live in hideous little bridge there in time to protect, it against
cabins, unfitfor the habitations of cuttle, a descent meditated by the captains of
banked with mud and furnished inside Turkish monitors — are the remains of a
with the rudest articles of prime neces- vast Roman intrenched camp ami for-
sity. In winter, when the heavy snows tresses. The churches inGalatz and the
cover the roadways so deeply that loco- ramparts in Braila are built of the mas-
motion is next to impossible, these sive stones taken from the walls which
the rider Romans piled up as memorials In the eastern flanks of the Carpathians
of their valor, and guarantees of (heir lieburied secrets which were unknown
reward for it. Catacombs containing toHerodotus himself, and upon which
lias-reliefs, inns, slalneltes. and inscrip- we may some day Stumble. If the
(ions were also discovered at Barbosi newly emancipated principality is per-
dnring (he last century. Galatz, near mitted to enjoy permanent peace im-
Barbosi, is renowned chiefly for possess- portant discoveries will be made within
ing the tomb of Mazeppa and as an im- its limits in the course of a few years,
portant commercial port. The Greeks In addition to the treasures in the Bu-
are quite as numerous
and powerful eharcst museum several princes and one
there as in Bucharest, and in the lirsl or two wealthy private citizens have
quarter of (his century rose with great rich collections of coins, statues, and
spirit several times against the Turks, vases, which serve to illustrate, the his-
< ic occasion slaying hundreds before tory of (he earliest years of the Christian
(heir wrath was appeased. The Mils- era.
sulmans were not slow at reprisal. How In all the Roumanian towns which rise
many times has the water of the Danube above the dignity of villages there is a
been crimsoned with the blood of large class of persons who do nothing
battle! Yet the majestic river Hows from year's end to year's end. How
through lands which seem to have been they exist is a puzzle past eomprcheii-
intended for the home of eternal peace, sion. In Ploiesci, which was for some
Let us hope that with the new era of time the head-quarters
of (he Czar
progress will come freedom from all Alexander and the Grand Duke Nicholas
barbaric struggles such as in time past at the beginning of the Russian campaign
have made Servia. I.'oiunania, and Bui- against Turkey, there were hundreds
garia a veritable " dark and bloody of families enjoying leisure, but without
ground" in Europe. any visible means of support. The
Bucharest has a fine national museum, husbands sat all day in (he caf&S smok-
which has been greatly enriched within ing cigarettes and discussing the situ-
the last few years by the collections of ation, or reclined on benches in their
antiquities unearthed by the delving gardens indolently enjoying the soft,
peasants. At first the Wallaehs did not spring breezes. Their wives and
fancy these things worth preserving, daughters appeared to outdo (heir nat-
The farmer broke up statues to use them ural protectors in laziness. Yet all
for boundary stones, and the teamster were well dressed, and even made a
wdio found a rusty coin while lighting certain pretension to style, affecting to
his evening camp-fire spurned it away be- sneer the rough, homely ways of
at
cause it was not bright and new, like the some of (he northern folk who had
lt'n ;\\h] Im i~ti —
the Roumanian francs and come down to light the Turk. The
centimes — of the present day. An .lews controlled (he trade. The Rou-
eminent archaeologist, named Odobesco, manian felt himself too line, evidently,
who has written much on (he subject of to sell linen coats at ten francs apiece
the tumuli scattered everywhere in Ron- ami bottles of colored water labelled
mania, believes that a careful search "Bordeaux" at. the same price to the
would bring to light many articles be- Russian new-comers. In Giurgevo (he
longing to the Stone and Bronze Ages, same lazy, listless -lass was to be seen*
Ell ROTE IN STORM AND CALM. 745
everywhere, and seemed too idle to move them absolutely undisturbed by any ir-
out of the way of the bombardment. regularities of conduct. King Charles
At Simnitza, Master Nicolai,with whom and his wife have always given an ex-
for a short time I had the pleasure of ample of the utmost devotion to the
residing, endeavored to explain his cir- sacredness of the family tie, and as a
cumstances. "The crops, you see, natural consequence are universally
bring in a little," he said; "the fowls loved and respected by the members of
a little more ; once in a while 1 sell a refined society in (he state.
butt of wine ; and. Mon Dieu ! one does Almost every Roumanian town, small
not need much money after all." This and large, possesses innumerable gar-
was eminently true in Master Nicolai's dens, which in summer make even the
case, for he seemed to live upon air and ordinary dwellings agreeable residences.
cigarette smoke. 1 never saw him at In winter the wooden houses are not
table during my visit, and it is my firm quite so pleasant, for the W attach under-
belief that in a week he did not consume stands as poorly as the Italian how to
as much solid food as a full-grown Eng- warm himself, and he growls all through
lish or American lad would eat in a the severe cold season, which he con-
6ingle day. siders as a kind of penance. With the
Towns like Ploiesci, Giurgevo, Crai- cessation of the spring rains his serenity
ova, Slatina, all have a certain smart- of temper returns. Each town has its
ness, and take their tone from Bu- gypsy quarter, and the types seen there
charest ; is no solid prosperity
but there are simply indescribable. Men and
in them. Morals are rather looser than women of this class have extremely prim-
the best class of Roumanians would like itive ideas with regard to clothing, and
to admit. Money is too powerful, and appear absolutely devoid of shame. For
will buy almost anything. A little four hundred and fifty years LheTsigane
money will shake an obstacle to the has been known in Roumania, and the
completion of a contract, will secure — race has made little or no improvement
exceptional privilege and honor a great ; m that time. The gypsies still steal when
deal of money makes all opposition to they dare, beg when they can, and work
one's wishes vanish as by magic. Ve- only when obliged.
nality is not so marked in the peasantry The country is as rich in monasteries as
as it is in the middle classes. Of the in churches. What a wonderful field are
corruption of society in the principal these grand Carpathians for the painter.
towns much has been said and written. who as yethas left them unexplored ! The
It is as bad as it can be but the Hun- ; crags, crowned with turrets and ramparts ;
garians and Austrians, who spend much the immense forests, which extend from
of their time in criticising the Rouma- snow-capped summits to vales where the
nians, are quite as faulty as the inhabi- grassis always green the paths winding
:
tants of the little Kingdom. Divorce along verges of awful precipices ; the
is easy and frequent throughout Rou- tiny villages, where shepherds come to
mania. There is little or no violent ven- sleep at night, and where the only per-
geance practised in eases of domestic sons who have ever seen people from
infelicity. The exterior of society is western Europe are the soldiers and the
spotless; and the stranger spending a. priests, who mayhap have travelled a
few days among the people would fancy little ; the exquisite sunsets tilled with
;
74". EUROPE l\ STORM AND CALM.
semi-tropical splendors, which tl land many blood} battles.

Tradition informs
transfigure the vast country side, — allare us that Stephen the Great, unfortunate
new and wonderful, and offer fen thou- in battle with the Turks, fled toward the
sand charms to him who is weary of fortress, but that his mother Helen corn-
Switzerland and tin- Alps, the Scot.- manded the gates to be shut in his face,
tish highlands, and the woods of Fontaine- crying out that unless he came home
blc.'iii. Despite the rains which followed victor lie was no son of hers. Where-
me when 1 threaded the paths in the upon this dutiful sou recovered Ins pres-
neighborhood of superb old Niamtzo's ence of mind, and, rallying his flying
fortress and monastery, only six hours' men, turnedand inflicted upon the Turks
ride by diligence from a convenient point a chastisement which the Osmanli nation
on the railwaj from Bucharest to Jassy, remembers to this day.
1 returned enchanted with the beauties Niamtzo possesses various buildings
of the Carpathian range. I do not re- of more or less modern construction —
member in which of the novelsof Ouida au insane asylum, ami one or two cloth
there is a description of this Roumanian factories in which the monks labor,
mountain country and one of the raonas- Not far from the old monastery is a
(cries in an almost inaccessible nook but ; famous convent for women, distinguished
I know that in journeyingabout themoun- from similar institutions in Roman Cath-
tains seemed to me that she had not
it olic countries by the extreme freedom
exaggerated, and that her rhapsody was of the inmates. This convent of Agapia
full of profound truth. has contained as many as five hundred
Niamtzo is the chief of Roumanian "nuns "at a time, all belonging to the
historical monasteries. Ets bells rang to upper ranks of society. None of these
call the faithful monks to prayer a. bun- ladies considered themselves as hound
died vears before Columbus discovered to ghostly vows, and Agapia and other
America, yet some of its massive walls convents became the centres of so much
are still in good condition. The savage intrigue that the government was com-
graudeur of its site, in a --pot, among pelled sonic years since to place re-
high mountains tipped with snow, with strictions upon them. The clergy aided
fir-trees standing round about it like sol- the secular officials to reform many
emu sentinels, is sufficiently impressive scandalous lapses from discipline in
but the edifice is more striking than its these establishments. Sojourn in the
surroundings. To-day it has two convent, once adopted, is for life, and
churches, ten bell-towers, and live or six many rich Roumanian families sacrifice
hundred monks. These lead a laborious one of their daughters that they may
albeit rather irresponsible existence. have more wealth for the child they love
The old fortress near was erected in
it best. The revenues of both the monas-
tic thirteenth century, by a body of Teu- t cries a m Icon vents are enormous. Nianit-
tons whom a Hungarian king had em- zo, which was at one time under the
ployed to check the incursions of the special protection of the emperor of
Tartars, ami hence the name of both Russia, disposes of nearly nine hundred
fort and monastery, for Niamtzo. or thousand francs yearly, and Agapia's in-
Nemtzu, in Roumanian means "German." come one hundred and twenty thou-
is
After the Germans who built it had sand francs. There arc many convents
passed away, Niamtzo was the scene of in the mountains near Niamtzo, and
"
indeed there are few sections of Roinnania And what is that?
in which these institutions do not exist. " It is a prayer for the death of
In a convent not far from Bucharest a certain person who has won the
a consul, who was a guest fur the after- affections <>f a great dignitary away
noon, was somewhat surprised to hear from his lawful wife. The privighiero
a number nuns constantly repenting
of is paid for by the wife, and is to
for more than an hour a woman's name. he continued at short intervals for forty
At last his curiosity prompted him to days."
ask the lady superior what was the The consul did not dare to ask the
reason of this repetition. lady if she thought the prayer would be
"Oh," said she smiling, -'it's only a answered.
priviyhiero."
74K EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER EIGHTY-FIVE.
Willi Ihc Russians in Bulgaria. — —
On the Danube. Simnitza. The Ex-tempoi-ancous Imperial Ilead- —
The Early lampaign in Bulgaria.— Singing of the Russian Troops. — Sistova.
Qtiarlcrs. -- <
Bul- —
garian Men. —
The Farmers. Manners of the Russian Army Officers.— The Grand DukcNichol i^-
TIk Elder Skobcleff. —
The Russian Emperor in the Field.
A s 1 approached Simnitza just at teamsters, broad-hatted, gloomy, and

-£j- dusk one evening in June, 1*77. dazed by the spectacle of the thousands
I saw a long line of fires blazing on tin- of strangers who had suddenly invaded
hills beyond the Danube and hailed their country Russian geuerals followed
;
them with joy. They were the funeral by stall's whose uniforms had once
pyns Turkish oppression, the beacon
of been brilliant, but were now indescriba-
lights of liberty and law in the East; blydusty and worn and genial, amiable ;
they denoted the presence of the new Muscovite infantry-men trudging liilo- |
crusaders, the sturdy Russians. sophically along the roads, hunting in
At the foot of the little hill down which vain for food, for medicine, for water,
my rude wagon was rattling a large camp for wine. — for everything. In those June-
was located. Lights gleamed from tiny days Simnitza was preeminently the
tents. The clash of arms and the murmur place where nothing was to he had at
of thousands of voices were borne with any price. Food was quite out of the
(he stilling dust to my ears. For days I question. The army passing by brought
had lived in dust, had breathed it. had its cattle with it; bread was unheard of;
drunk it in my tea, and eaten it with the soldier subsisted on the ration of
my hard bread and harder Roumanian soup, with a huge round of beef, which
cheese. I had slept in it in filthy khans, the regimental cooks served out to him
in filthier villages, where half-grown daily. But the For him there
civilian?
boys and girls ran about naked. I was was no food, unless he had brought it a
coated with dust. When I moved clouds hundred miles, unless his servants could
arose ar 1 me. When a Cossack pa- cook it, anil unless those servants could
trol passed, spectral in the gathering go half a. mile from town to procure the
darkness, he left behind him a pillar of fuel with which to make the tire. All
dust which seemed to mount to the very this we learned within ten minutes after
skies. Interminable wagon trains, drawn our arrival in simnitza.
by shaggy, ill-tempered Russian horses. There was a hotel — a vast, rambling
wallowed in the wearisome highways structure, with long galleries out of
which stretched for miles across the which chambers opened somewhat, like
treeless wastes. Artillery creaked cells in a penitentiary but his was full, ; t
slowly forward. The shuffling landlord seemed to take

As we drove into the diminutive town malicious pleasure in refusing all de-
we found ourselves in the midst of a mauds. Threats, entreaties, money, were
shouting, bustling crowd of Hebrew of no avail. Even the stable-yard was
merchants crazy for gain Roumanian : crowded with Russian wagons, and Cos-
KUROPK IN STORM AND CALM. 749
sucks were lying about on the straw river and chilled them. The (
'zarof all the
smoking, and singing quaint songs which Bussias slept in and
a disused hospital
stirred one's poetic sens-.' curiously. A ate his dinner in Sometimes
a. marquee.
bath, clean clothes, something to eat, the dust was half an inch thick on the
and a \'r\v hours of repose would have plates on the Imperial table. At noon
enabled one to enter thoroughly into lunch was served for all gentlemen at-
the spirit of the scene. Hut one might tached to the head quarters ; in the even-
as well have asked for the moon or the ing the Emperor selected his guests. The
chaste Pleiades or the soothing Orion. foreign military attaches, the journalists,
In sheer desperation I went with my and the artists set up their tents and
companion, while the servants prose- shifted for themselves. They longed for
cuted their search for lied and board, the definite advance into Bulgaria, for
to the long plateau near the Danube inaction and privation together were
shore. The moon hail arisen, and en- simply intolerable.
abled us to see the great silent river Every day, over the poorly traced
flowing and majestically past
steadily highway leading from Giurgevo to Sim-
the islands and the steep banks oppo- nit/.a, camo thousands of troops, grimly
site, as serene as if no great battle had bending to their work, setting their faces
ever been fought near it. A long line sternly to the East. We never tired of
of gleams indicated the position of the watching the solid infantry-men as they
bridge of boats established after tile plodded by, now answering the saluta-
'! iirks had been driven from the hills tion of a. General with a shout which
Of Sistova. Numerous correspondents made one's heart bent faster than usual,
of English and French newspapers who now singing almost reverently in chorus.
presently joined us said that on the Bul- The Cossacks were our chief delight.
garian bank abundant food and excel- Dust and fatigue seemed to have no
lent wine were to
lie found. This was power to choke the harmony which welled
aggravation. We sighed for the prom- up melodiously, as from the pipes of a
ised laud, spent the night in a wretched mighty organ, whenever a Cossack reg
apology for a chamber infested by iment halted. On they came, now at
and other small vermin, and awoke
fleas dawn, now at dusk, thousands of lithe,
next morning unrefreshed. We then sinewy, square-faced, long-haired youth,
presented ourselves at the Imperial head- with shrewd twinkling eyes, small hands
quarters. and feet, nerves of steel, and gestures full
In a large enclosure on a bluff near of utmost earnestness. The leader of
the Danube majesty and authority had each squadron usually "lined" the hymn
pitched their tents, and directly oppo- or ballad which was sung. Behind him
site them were numerous ambulances, hundreds of voices took up the chorus,
in which lay the brave fellows wounded and prolonged it until the heavens seemed
in the attack on Sistova. Grand duke, tilled with sweet notes. Sometimes the
high officer of justice, and prince, gen- singers recited the exploits of an an-
erals of division and aides-de-camp were cient hetman of their tribes sometimes ;
lodged under canvas covers, beneath an exquisite and tender sentiment of

which llie dust cruelly crept. By day melancholy pervaded their song a —
the sun scorched the unhappy crusad- longing for home, for kindred, for babe
ers ; by night a cold wind blew from the and wife sometimes a rude worship per-
;
meated every note. From the camps of that visits to Sistova were allowed and
these stout fellows, who arc the eves and that the road into Bulgariawas open.
ears of the Russian army when it is in Seen from the Danube, Sistova does
an enemy's country, nightly arose the not present a very attractive appear-
mournful and spiritual cadences of the ance. Here and there a white minaret
"Evening Prayer,'" followed by the Rus- gleams in the sun musses of small cot-
;
sian national anthem, than which no ua- tages with thatched roofs, colored like
tion has a grander. When the breezes the cliffs to which they cling, are grouped
were favorable we could hear the singing with but little picturesqueuess. Near
of the Russian troops beyond the Dan- the Danube there are a few large ware-
ube, and from time to time through the houses and ••hotels.'' But that part
lone,' night cheer answered cheer across of Sistova which cannot be seen from
the wide dark waters. This singing was the river is quite imposing, and there
a marked feature of the early campaign the Turk, who has an eye for the beau-
in Bulgaria. On the march, when near tiful in nature, had chosen his quarter,
the enemy, infantry and cavalry were where he dwelt proudly apart from the
alike silent, grave, watchful, but at night despised Christian,
nothing could restrain thechorus. Grand, We scrambled down the steep hanks
plaintive, often pathetic, mounted to it from Simnitza one terribly hot day,
the stars; and when the Turks heard it, fought our way through the throngs
it must have impressed them powerfully. of Jewish merchants, pushed past the
In tin' savage self-complacency of his troops waiting the signal to cross the
own prayer the Mussulman may have bridge, and were finally permitted to
disdained the Giaour's expression of pass on. Dismounting from our horses,
worship and adoration, but his soul we led them across this remarkable pon-
must have been touched bv the liar- toou structure, which was a I'terward sup-
mony and rhythm. I know that the plemeuted by a second and stronger one,
stolid faces of certain Anatolians who though, as the event has proved, not
were held as prisoners at Simnitza bright- more capable than the fust of holding
ened a little when they heard the bands its own againsl Father Danube's wintry
of singing ossacks pass; but whether
< wrath In each pontoon sat a hardy
the brightness was caused by hatred or sailor, silent, contentedly munching
admiration I cannot tell. The Bulga- black-bread or reading a Moscow news-
rians seemed dazed by so much singing ; paper. The Russians were wise ill
and although at a later period they tried choosing Simnitza as their principal
to imitate it. even inventing a ••national crossing-point, for there the islands aided
hvuin." which was al best but a. melan- in the work. lint when later in the
cholv affair, they always did it in a campaign, in the dreary rainy days of
half-hearted and frightened manner, as autumn, those islands had become
if they feared that the ferocious Turk, transformed into lakes of liquid mud,
with bastinado and knife, were about the spectacle of dead and dying horses,
to appear. men suffering with fever in the insuf-
Al last the army authorities, who had ficient shelter of tents, broken and
held us back, informed journalists, almost submerged wagons, was dis-
artists, and all civilians who had re- heartening. A Scotch journalist insists
ceived permission to follow the army that the greatest battle fought by the
Russians was with the Danube during ter over night; but our horses, picketed
the whole of one terrible day and night, at the wagon-pole, seemed inclined at
when the river seemed anxious to aid intervals in the night to munch our un-
the Turks and to carry out the pro- protected toes; and this caused us no
gramme which Abdul Kerim had so little uneasiness. Lying wakeful in the
fondly imagined possible, — that of is- mellow moonlight, whose beams stole
olating the invader in Bulgaria, and even under the wagon's leathern hood,
then falling upon him both in front and nothing could be more inexpressibly
rear. comical than the grave, elongated, sym-
The approaches to Sistova by the only pathetic, inquiring faces of our four
practicable road are wildly romantic, horses as they peered in at us. I slept
weird, desolate. I could think of nothing as dawn came, and dreamed that the
but the region described by Robert Brown- Turk had returned and was pillaging his
ing in his poem, " Childe Harold to the own house.
Dark Tower came." A sense of fore- Many points in Sistova remind one
boding seemed to fasten on one as be of old Italian towns. A crumbling for-
rode in among thegiant hills. But there tress on a pinnacle : a mysterious-looking

was no enemy left to be wary of, even mansion set on a shelf of rock; a bal-
at thatearly date. Audacious tactics, or cony half concealed by perfumed shrubs
" lack of tactics," as the Austrian mili- and fair blossoms a street of stairs hewn
;
tary attach^ insisted upon saying, had from solid rock a white pathway winding
;
succeeded, and at the cost of compar- along the edge of a miniature precipice,
atively few lives. Dragimiroff and his — these were elements of the picturesque
braves had pushed the Turks well bark which we had seen elsewhere. But the
toward Tirnova. So we slept in peace dark faces which glared at us from behind
at Sistova in the court-yard of a pretty lattices; the old kaimakam of stately
cottage which a wealthy Turk had left port and turbaned bead ; the captive
in haste, and which the Bulgarians bad bashi-bazouk, with his hideous, igno-
plundered afterwards. The Bulgarians rant scowl, his belt filled with weapons.
had not been civil enough to leave us and his shambling gait ; the timorous Bul-
even a chair or table so we were com-
; garian women, in their bright, neatly
pelled to unpack our camp equipage. woven garments, — the women who
The servants built a fire in the yard, rose up at our approach, and seemed
made tea, produced a thin Turkish wine not to dare to believe that their souls
which they had found in the town, gave were their own, — these were new types.
us bread, — which seemed a miracle, as We were not specially inclined to ad-
we had been absolutely without for it mire the humbler samples of the Bul-
three days, — and even hinted the at garian men : their ways were the least
possibility of having a tish out of the bit fawning, and they seemed deficienl
Danube. But that was too much. We in energy. These much down-trodden
battled with temptation, and, consoling folk were however to have
beginning
ourselves with tea. retired to rest in our some semblance of national feeling.
wagon. No Turk came to disturb us. They covered their red head-gear with
although the Bulgarians had assured us handkerchiefs of linen, and
or strips
that we should have our throats cut if marked them with the image of the
we dared to remain in the Turkish quar- redeeming cross. It was also under-
r
7. )2 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
.stood liv the Bulgarians that the cross so exactly had he caught our national
upon the door of u shop or house would inflection. Out
of this little group of
preserve it from intrusion when prying young men may spring the one who is
Cossack and more inquisitive native to prompt the nation to a new intellect-
began to search for plunder in the sur- uallife. It is but fail' to say that we did
rendered town. Some critics who have not see the representatives of the better
been anxious to please the carping Eng- classes of Bulgarians at Sistova. The
lish conservatives, who naturally desire young men who had received an English
to place the Bulgarians in as unfavor- education were generally natives of points
able a light as possible, have accused nearer the Balkan range. The people
the latter of much pillaging and cruelty, near the Danube have l>ecn much more
That they did aid the Cossacks in sack- bitterly and degraded than
oppressed
ing the Turkish houses in Sistova and those on the Balkan slopes or beyond
Tirnova alter the oppressor had tied the mountains. The Turkish tax-gath-
there can be no doubt — no more doubt erer's most ferocious raids were made
than that almost any other nation that on the fat lands near the great river, and
had been so horribly abused for centuries there the people were naturally less intcr-
would have gone further, and on the ap- esting, All individuality seemed to have
pioach of the deliverer would have mas- been crushed out of them. They were
sacred the oppressor rather than have jealous and suspicious of their friends,
allowed him to flee. After the first Hush as well as of their known enemies. I
of excitement was over the goods taken narrowly escaped a severe beating at
from Turkish houses were piled in one an angry and herculean peasant's hands
of the public squares, and official notice one evening because 1 insisted that he
was given that when the Turkish inhab- should sell some grain from his overflow-
itants returned they might identify and ing store for my starving horses, lie re-
reclaim their property. fused, and flew into a passion when com-
If the mass of Bulgarian men did not pelled to Long contact with the
sell.
impress us favorably, it was not so with treachery and greed of the Turk had
the educated and refined specimens sent made the fanner morose and mean. If
forth from our American college in Con- he could only keep what he had aecu-
stantinople. The acute English critics, undated, even though it might rot, he
who seemed to follow the campaign for thought himself lucky, lie knew little
the express purpose of finding fault with of the value of exchange, and eared less.
everything, professed to like the educated Farther in the interior of Bulgaria we
Bulgarian still less than his uneducated found the peasant, Turkish and Bul-
brother. They found him arrogant, pre- garian, willing to trade and sharp at a
tentious, idle, and lacking in stamina, bargain. But in a squalid village of
We found him gentle, possessed of the huts near the Danube one day we paid
soft and yielding manner of these south- two francs for some bread and cheese,
ern peoples, it is true but we also found
; for the privilege of reposing in a cottage,
him earnest, well grounded in general and for

after eight hours in the saddle,
knowledge, and anxious for special study, some milk. The
was placed on the
coin
lie seemed to us like a young American, low Turkish table around which we had
so well did he speak the English which been seated cross-legged while we ate
iie had learned in Robert College, and our simple meal, and when we went
away it was still lying untouched. They Bulgaria ; and our expectations were
were not even curious to know what it not vain. At a miserable village called
was, nor did they thank us for it. I feel Tzarevitza, where there had been a con-
convinced that they did not comprehend siderable Turkish population, we found
that it was money. They gave help if nothing but empty huts, and one or two
one's wagon-wheel came off, or drew regiments camped in the pleasant woods
water from the wells for one, or told the near by. In the afternoon all tin 4 tine
route, and warned us against dangerous gentlemen of the head-quarters arrived,

roads with alacrity and zeal, and some- half famished, choked with thirst, and
times crossed themselves, saying that the gorgeous uniforms which they had
they did the service in Christ's name ; put on for their entry into the enemy's
but barter was difficult, and annoyed country tarnished and almost ruined.
and angered them. Generals young and old, princes, cap-
To be compelled to hurry was likewise tains, diplomatic agents, and attaches
very distasteful to Bulgarians every- broke suddenly upon our little camp,
where. We offered four francs for a which we had established in the middle
small kid cooked and so wrapped up of a forest, and demanded food and
that we could have it in our wagon to drink. The tent-mattings were littered
rely on for supper in a certain village. with yataghans, beautiful Kirghese
The good man who was to do the work swords, — souvenirs of Central Asian
finally gave it up. saying that it never campaigns, — Smith & Wesson revolv-
could be ready for live o'clock in the ers, the jewelled rapier of the court
morning, although the order was given official, and the thin blade of the diplo-
at three o'clock on a previous afternoon. matist. The unfortunate representatives
Nothing awed and amazed the peasantry of Russia's dignity and authority were
so much as to see a plain white with destined to wait nearly twelve hours be-
tents at evening, and when they arose fore their wagons, containing tents, food,
in the morning to find the camp drink, and clothing, came up with them.
gone. The women were loud in their So they beguiled the hours with mighty
complaints against the Turks in all the draughts of tea. which we were happily
Danube country. Near the Balkans they able to furnish them, and charmed us
said but little, and seemed ashamed to with those two prominent traits of the
acknowledge thai they had ever been Russian gentleman's character, demo-
under Turkish domination The moun- cratic freedom from affectation and
taineers were every way more effective in perfect amiability. These are good qual-
serving the cause than the peasantry of ities, especially in warriors. Add to
the plain, who seemed to look at the these an almost excessive frankness.
passage of the Russians with nothing even in dealing with their own faults.
more than gratitude and curiosity. In and I think one may safely say that the
Sistova the peasants seemed densely Russians an' worthy praise. There is in
stupid; in Gabrova, sympathetic, and them muchof the keenness of the Mental. (
even sharp. Gabrova lies at the foot of They can dissemble when they feel that
the mountains. they are surrounded by those who are
We pressed onward from Sistova, ex- hostile to their aims, and if need be can
pectingthat the head-quarters would cajole as well. The Russian has a sharp
soon be transferred to some point in sense of resentment, especially if he
fancies that his motives are misunder- as they marched by. The Generals and
stood or wilfully misinterpreted; but he other superior officers are very like those
has none of the stiffness of the Prussian, of America, in their complete disregard
— nothing whatever of Ins arrogance. of anything like formulas and their con-
A correspondent once unwittingly gave tempt for undue assumption of dignity.
his card to one grand duke, asking him From the emperor to the aide-de-camp
to hand it to another. The person ad- there is not a single degree of rank in
dressed promised, with the must perfect which one does not find unfailing, ser-
politeness, to do it, and did not appear viceable politeness, — that politeness
to think it extraordinary. which has been so accurately described
There was hut one critical remark as proceeding from " natural goodness
which some of the journalists following of heart."
the army were inclined to make, and The Grand Duke Nicholas, brother of
thai was, that perhaps these gracious the Emperor, and commander-in-chief of
and amiable gentlemen who chatted so the Russian armies in Europe, arrived in
pleasantly in our tent at Tzarevitza, and Tzarevitza toward evening, and took up
whose manners were so perfect while so his quarters in a deserted cottage. The
utterly simple, would disdain their enemy, only sign of his presence was a small Hag
or would neglect some great opportunity and an infantry band, which astounded
to crush him, which would result in their the few Bulgarians left in the village
own undoing. The persons who had with some rather noisy selections from
suggested this were not slow to insisi the repertoire of Maitre Offenbach. 1
that was true when the Plevna check

it firstsaw the Grand Duke engaged in
occurred, and for a time they exulted in cooking liver and bacon over a huge tire
the pride of what they were pleased to precisely as our frontiersmen cook venison
term their foresight. But presently — in slices spitted on a large hard-wood
Plevna fell, and a hundred voices coun- stick. As evening approached a certain
selled Turkey to sue for peace. Certain amount of ceremony was preserved in
laxities of discipline and freedom from the yard of the cottage, where most of
proper caution observable early in the the members of the staff had gathered,
Campaign were corrected when the whole but Nicholas paid small attention to it.
vast military machine was thoroughly in lie strode to and fro with long, clastic,
motion. The rigidity of Prussian train- swinging step, superintending his own
ing is impossible to Russians: their dinner, although there were numerous
natures and their sense of individual servants in attendance. The veteran
manliness alike rebel against it. ( (ffieers Cossack General, Skobeleff, father of the
and men are much nearer to each other youthful General whose reckless heroism
than in German or other armies. A has given him fame throughout Europe
country ruled by a man who has absolute ami America, had witli his own hands
power over the subject has an array in slaughtered and dressed a sheep, and it
which theofficers are often familiar, and was now roasting in the fashion which
generally free and easy, with their sol- has been known in the East for the last
diers. During the entry of certain regi- three thousand years.
ments into Tirnova a lieutenant whom Nicholas had a face which in repose was
we knew came to our room, and from its proud, imperious, and showed wonderful
windows pelted his own men with flowers capacity for passion. A lightning-like
temper might at a moment's notice be and even disliked to be called by his title.
betrayed by those keen eyes, ordinarily On the whole he had the strength of
filled with pleasant smiles. Quick in character and line sense of honor which
all his motions, he liked quickness in are the family traits, with a winsome, fas-
others ; wore
he rode a horse which it cinating manner added to them.Of his
others out to follow, and was fond of abilities as a military commander the
world has been able to judge. Although
he was surrounded by competent advisers,
he was nevertheless entitled to much
credit for the successes which the Rus-
sians, in the face of tremendous ob-
stacles, finally achieved.
The Russian Imperial family found
itself in an exceedingly difficult position
in 1877. Forced by the enthusiastic
agitators of Moscow toward a war which
must of necessity be long and bloody,
they entered into the campaign almost
with reluctance but once engaged in it,
;
the Emperor and the Grand Dukes all

showed their willingness to share the
perils and many of the privations which
fell to the lot of the humbler, and wen'
active from the time of the cross-

ing into Bulgaria at Simnitza until the
surrender of Osman at Plevna. Al-
though the Czar was for much of the
GENERAL SKOBELEFF. time in delicate health, he refused to
quit the and remained in fever-
field,
dashing away to some distant village, ridden Biela long after it seemed dan-
and then sending for the others to come gerous in the extreme for him to stay.
up with him, while he was on the road to An engineer officer of the United States
Tiruova. He told me with great glee army who spent, some time in the
how he left the palace of Cotroceni in Russian camps informed me that the
Bucharest by stealth, went down to the Imperial Majesty of all the Rus-
Danube, and had half his plans per- sias was more indifferently lodged at
fected before any one outside his immedi- Biela than an American Colonel would
ate personal circle knew of it. He be during an expedition on the plains.
spoke English as perfectly as a foreigner The kitchen of majesty was doubtless
can : was the first language that
it better served than that of the com-
he learned, and he had a Scotch nurse. mon soldier, but the clouds of dust,
His dress was always simple in the ex- the draughts of air. the all but intol-
treme, and while to accept the deference erable smells, the occasional invading
paid him by the officers who surround scorpion and the innumerable inquisi-
him seemed second nature to one bred to tive bugs respected Czar no whit more
he would not receive it from strangers.
it, than Cossack.
—
756 HUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER EIGHTY-SIX.
General Radetzky. —
Russians on tlie March. Infantry-Men. —Cossacks. —
Dragimiroff. In Camp. — —
Reception <>f the Liberating Russians by the Bulgarians. —
Enthusiasm of the Women and 'hildren. (
— —
Welcome by the Monks ami Priests The Defile beside the Yantra. The Arrival at Tirnova. — —
Triumphal Procession. —
The Grand Duke Nicholas in Church. The Picturesque City on the —
Yantra. —
The Greek Ladies. —
Fugitives from Eski Zaghra.
FINDING that the Eighth corps, step, as if determined to expend as little
under command of General Ra- force as possible. Then followed artil-
detzky, had been ordered to push forward lery ; next mih's on miles of wagons,
as rapidly as possible into the interior of for the baggage-train even of a Russian
Bulgaria, we joined our fortunes to tin- army corps or of a battalion is of phe-
staff of this brave fragment of the Rus- nomenal size in comparison with those
sian army, — a fragment destined to be in other armies. The ambulances and
so cruelly tried, and so severely punished a small rear-guard came lumbering
in the campaign. The grand ducal staff behind. This marching column was
was difficult to find after five o'clock in usually so long drawn out. so very thin,
the morning: it vanished, and we were that it would have been cut in two a
compelled either to follow it across fields dozen times daily had the Turks had
and over by-roads at a venture, or to any effective regular or irregular cavalry.
journey with the staff of one of the A few horsemen on the brow of a hill at
corps. We preferred the latter course. sometimes produced an ex-
right or left
Two or three days' marches through a cellent the column, in which

effect:
rolling country, where the crops were great gaps had been growing for an hour
already in splendid condition, and where or two, came together in solid fashion
a few peasants had gathered courage to once more. But the Turks never im-
reappear in the fields, brought us to a proved their advantages in a single
picturesque region where hills were instance. The bashi-bazouks were too
loftier, fields were, if more
possible, cowardly: they desired to tight only
fertile, than in the Danube basin, and when they were certain of incurring
the men and the women were of nobler small personal risk and a dash into the
;
type than those by the river-side. Long middle of a marching column had a
before dawn a band of Cossacks
stout spice of adventure in it which they did
started and rode carefully and diligently not relish.
over the whole route of the day's march. With but very short intervals for re-
They penetrated to all the villages on pose the troops usually marched until
the right or left, pursued roving bands noon, and sometimes, if water were not
of bashi-bazouks if any were to be readily to be had, until three o'clock.
found, and reported by faithful couriers The officers said but little, generally
to the General commanding the corps. gave their commands in low voices, and
By six the infantry was on the march, used their own discretion in allowing
moving forward with slow, deliberate rest. If the sun were very hot and no
air were stirring —a terrible trial in a steed, and as it may often become a
treeless country — -a halt would be ordered very sorry beast in the course of a cam-
and company after company would paign, he is frequently anxious to change
throw on the ground with that feel-
itself it for a better one. Put when he is so-
ing of intense relief which only he who ber he realizes to the utmost the danger
makes the soldier's effort can know. which he would incur by any display of
Yet the men were never heavily loaded. lawlessness. On the inarch to the Bal-
The officers allowed them to pack their kans there were few if any sutlers — or
knapsacks and blankets into the wagons, "market-tenders," as they are called —
and to march weighted down by noth- in the train, and soldiers had no chance
ing save their light linen suits and to replenish their scanty stores of liquor
their guns. We often found our wagon at a merchant's counter.
after a halt half filled with knapsacks. Near Ivanteha, a pretty village which
This at first puzzled us, but we soon had suffered much from Turkish rapac-
discovered that the proper plan was ity and brutality, the Eighth corps, a
to stipulate for the carriage of a cer- compact little army of thirty thousand
tainnumber. The others were promptly men, came upon the high-road leading to
thrown out, and presently we would Tirnova from Rustchuk. At six on a
see their owners stealing up with roguish breezy summer morning we found the
smiles to recover them. As soon as the veteran Radetzky seated on a rock at the
village or the river near which we were summit of one of the tumuli, or obser-
to encamp was reached, the bands began vation-mounds, to be found everywhere
to play lively airs, and the soldiers, unin Bulgaria. The long lines of infantry
less orders had been for some pruden- weri' slowly defiling below, ami from the
tial reason issued against it, broke into throats of the men of each battalion as
singing. Then tents were speedily pitched it passed the point of observation came
and by four or live o'clock the weary- a loud cry of " Morning " in answer to !
soldier was invited to a hot and substan- the friendly " Morning, brothers " of the !
tial meal. The use of tobacco among General. Radetzky is a tranquil, easy-
these troops seemed insignificant as going commander of the old school be ;
compared with the enormous consump- takes every event in the most matter-of-
tion of that article in the Prussian ami fact way, seems utterly devoid of energy
French armies. A Prussian Uhlan or a until the very last moment, when he
foot-soldier has his porcelain pipe or summons it, does just the right thing,
cheap cigar in his mouth every moment and acts with marvellous celerity, as he
of the day that such indulgence is pos- did at the time of Suleiman Pacha's furi-
sible; but I have seen the Cossacks sit ous attack on the positions in the Shipka
for hours idly singing or basking in the Pass. In appearance he is more like
sunshine, and evidently anxious for no a good bourgeois shopkeeper than like
narcotic. "When the Cossack has taken a general ; stretches himself with the
too much liquor he is dangerous, and utmost unconcern on a carpet in camp ;
sometimes very brutal. It is then thai tosses off a dozen huge bumpers of scald-
his passion for stealing horses becomes ing tea ; smiles at the name of Turk ;
developed to an alarming extent. The crosses himself as devoutly as do any of

Cossack, when he enters the service of the Cossacks, and inspires every one who
the Czar, is bound to furnish his own comes into contact with him with genuine
7.58 EUROPE IS STORM ASK CALM.
affection. His chief of staff, Dimitri- He is dark complexioned, of medium

owski, a veteran of Central Asian cam- height ; time has taken tribute of his
paigns, bestrode a Kirghese horse, which hair, hut has not abated his energy.
had faithfully borne him in more than His order of the day for the conduct of
fifteen thousand miles of campaigning. the troops who were detailed to cross the
To see these two amiable gentlemen rid- Danube front of Sistova was filled
in
ing slowly across fields together one with thesame brief, incisive instructions
would never fancy them to be soldiers ; which Suwarrow was so fond of giving.
yet both were valiant in the highest de- The most noteworthy thing in this order
cree at Shipka. The chief of staff was was the command to the soldiers to listen
dangerously wounded there, while Ra- to no signal of retreat under any circum-
detzky rushed int.) the fight as impul- stances whatever. The duty plainly al-
sively as a hoy of twenty, and repelled lotted them was to take Sistova and the
forces largely outnumbering his own. positions dominating the point at which
From this high mound in the centre flic Russian engineers wished to con-
of a broad plain, where General Radetz- struct their bridge to take and hold—
ky hail installed himself, we could see these points, or to perish in the attempt.
a thin white line moving slowly along General Dragimiroff was justly proud of
the road tun or three miles away, and his achievement, and as he threw him-
presently the morning sun flashed upon selffrom his horse on that lovely July
the tops of ten thousand polished gun- morning and scrambled up the mound to
liarrels with dazzling splendor. Out of greet his General, he did not realize that
this blinding light suddenly rode, pound- weary weeks in hospital were soon to be
ing vigorously on his sturdy charger along his portion. He was disabled at Shipka
the hard turnpike, and followed by a by a severe leg wound during Suleiman's
rakish-looking detachment of Cossacks. attack.
General Drngimiroff, the hero of the At our left, and perhaps two miles dis-
fight before Sistova and commander of tant, arose a. steep and thinly wooded
a division of the famous fighting Eighth. mountain range, which, according to tin 1
Dragimiroff is a man of mark in Russia ; Bulgarians, afforded shelter to several

he is the disciple of the great Suwar- thousands of irregular Mussulman troops,
row, who made the Russian soldier, who had hidden themselves at the ap-
and who gave him the thousand maxims proach <>f General Radetzky. It was
for military conduct, tilled with comn curious to observe the tactics of the Cos-
sense and manly feeling, which one sacks in exploring the country near this
hears in the ranks. Before Suwarrow mountain. With our glasses we could
the Russian soldier was a machine: now see them trotting swiftly across the un-
lie is a man. General Dragimiroff is a even held, their lance-points glistening
handsome gentleman of elegant deport- in the sun. As they approached a vil-
ment, a little |iast th prime of life; now lage they gathered into a little knot, to
and then, when he puts on his spectacles separate swiftly again as they found
and begins a discussion on tactics, he nothing to impede their progress. Then
seems the least hit like a school-master. they came and swooping back
circling
hut when he is in the saddle, surrounded toward the main line, and when they
by officers and rattling toward an en- were near enough to be clearly observed
gagement, he looks every inch a soldier. we saw that most of their saddle-bows
;
F. VII 01'/; l.V STORM AXD CALM. 759
were decorated with chickens or fat near by as the staff entered the
geese. village. Flowers handed to the
were
As we moved slowly forward that day horsemen. Little maidens modestly ami
we saw villages in Haines on our right timidly proffered fruit and bread. Tin'
and left. Some of them were burned village priests with tear-stained faces
by Mussulmans flying before the wrath stood holding the holy painted images
to come and anxious to leave no stores of the saints and muttering words of
behind for the comfort of the Russians ;
praise and consolation. A lusty youth,
others were set on fire by Cossacks appointed to ring the chimes on a musi-
other fires still were kindled by Bul- cally tuned bar of steel, which had been
garians, to burn Turkish houses as soon extemporized to serve instead of the bells
as the occupants had departed. But no so sternly forbidden by the Turkish op-
enem}' was to be found, and we camped pressors, rang and danced, and laughed
that evening in a romantic valley beside and wept alternately as he danced and
the Rushitza river, a wide and deep rang. The women clasped their children
stream at this particular place. The to their breasts with fierce and proud ca-
Turks, with their usual kindness, had resses, and cried as if their hearts would
left a large wooden bridge intact. In- burst for joy. From the wooden-grated
fantry and cavalry poured over this, and window of a room in the khan of the
soon found quarters in a pleasant wood, hamlet two Turkish prisoners turbaned —
while tin' artillery forded the stream. It Mussulmans, who would have been ven-
would have been gratifying to see at erable had it not been for the horrible
least a few hundred hostile horsemen or atrocities of which they were convicted
a little band of infantry wearing the red — glared out upon the arriving (mops
caps of the Turks, but none were visible. with a dull, hopeless ferocity. One of
The Ottomans had encamped on this these ancient ruffians had been twice lib-
very spot but a short time before, how- erated on account of his great age, but
ever, and it was believed that they could the second time he fell into an uncontrol-
not be far away. lable fury, spat upon the ground, and,
The Grand Duke slept in the tiny vil- drawing his knife, prepared to run
lage of Palikvast, twenty minutes' gal- amuck among the villagers, when he was
lop from our camp, that night, and next rearrested. The ignoble miscreant had
morning prepared for his triumphal entry murdered several innocent children in
intoTirnova. Our Eighth corps marched the course of his worthless He and life.
merrily over the and through the

hills his companion were hanged during our
deep vales until it came to a small town stay in Tirnova.
just at the entrance of the magnificent The Russian infantry-men, inarching
defile at the opposite end of which Tir- stoutly by to the music of inspiring
nova is situated. Here the inhabitants strains, such as Bulgarians had never
were assembled, dressed in their best heard before, seemed to astonish the ig-
attire, the women and girls wearing gold norant villagers beyond measure. They
and silver ornaments, which they bad constantly inquired for "Alexander,"
rarely dared to put on under Turkish the beloved name representing in their
rule. A half-smothered cry of admira- minds the deliverance. The Cossacks
tion and joy burst from the hundreds seemed inspired on this occasion they :
assembled from all the country-places had caught the spirit of delirious joy
which prevailed among the Bulgarians, house, which an officer of the advance-
and as a regiment of the brave fellows guard had hastily chosen lor General
came slowly through the town, beating Radetzky's head-quarters. Behind us
time with wild gestures to their own the street was speedily filled with an
wilder song, which swelled and swelled immense detachment of cavalry, which
in volume until the narrow valley seemed had come in by another road and
too small to contain it, enthusiasm lost was pushing straight on to the
all bounds. Many women threw them- Balkans. So we sat for an hour
selves, sobbing hysterically, on the on our horses watching this human
ground, hiding their faces, while their lit- torrent as swept by, and wondering
it
tie children tugged at their skirts. Mean- how many of the thousands of horsemen
time fighting was in progress not would ever see Russia again.
far away. A Cossack captain showed At Tirnova, as at the little village, the
us a goodly store of richly mounted arms cry was for " Alexander." People did
and saddles, bridles and cloths worked not. know who Grand Duke
seem to
with gold, brought in from a village Nicholas was; they only knew that
twenty miles distant, where the Turkish after an absurdly ineffectual resistance
peasants had made a bold stand against the Turk had lied and the Russian de-
twice their number of Cossacks. Only liverer had coin 1
in his place. And

the I lii-eat that the town would be burned what joy bubbled and frothed in laughter
could induce the villagers to give up and song or evanesced in tears as the
their arms. freed people promenaded the crooked
"
We rode on through the mighty defile avenues, arm in arm, crying " Hurrah !
beside the beautiful Yantia to Tirnova, as if they weie not used to doing it but
the ancient capital of tin' Bulgarian thought it. a good accomplishment to
kings, and positively the most pictu- acquire!
resque town that 1 have ever seen. We When the street was once more pass-
left the and galloped
troops behind, able we hastened to the high walls over-
along a narrow road where two hundred looking the valley to observe the entry
men might have held the pass against of the Grand Duke and his staff Trav- .
ten thousand. That the Turks should ersing the town, and now and then
ever have been foolish enough to yield following the Cossacks down steep
this defile without the defence which avenues, where one's neck was in immi-
it was so easy to make seems incredible, nent danger, then climbing a street set
( )n either hand, perched high among the upon the outermost edge of a very preci-
rocks, is a monastery, from which the pice, we came to a plateau whence we
old and young monks had come down could see a long procession of horsemen
to gieet iis. Generals and minor officers winding through the sunlit valley,
doffed their hats and bent reverently and finally pausing before a company of
for the monkish benediction, then priests, who bore them the bread and
passed on. crossing themselves. Soon salt of hospitality and the divine sym-
we saw the root' of a mosque glittering hols, that the\ might kiss them. The
in and clambering up a long and
the Sun, procession made its way as best it could
stony ascent, and clattering through the to the principal church, where Nicholas,
narrow and dirty streets, we made our hand on sword, stood for half an hour
way to a many-gabled, quaintly -balconied listening to the chants of the priests and
EUROPE IX STORM A XI) CALM. 761
the somewhat monotonous music of the hundreds of feet into yellow water, or
choir-boys. In this church we caught upon odorous gardens, where the richest
sight of Bulgarian beauty, which unsym- blossoms flourish. A house in Tirnova
pathetic Hungarians and sneering Rou- appears to have no foundation; it is in
manians had taught us to consider a some mysterious manner inextricably
myth. Dark-eyed, dark-haired girls connected with those above and those
crowded toward the altar to see the below it, and its cellars and sub-cellars
deliverer, bowed their pretty heads rev- seem to extend into the bowels of the
erently when he kissed the crucifix, and earth. The houses of well-to-do citizens
shot bewitching glances at the young are ample, even vast; the court-yards
officers, who had donned their most brill- are surrounded by veritable parapets
iant uniforms for this memorable occa- and ramparts. The interior furnishing
sion. In single file the Duke, his aides- is simple and Oriental divans, low and
:
de-camp and half a hundred officers covered with coarse carpets, arc more
passed out of the town to a hill a short common beds; and in the recess
than
distance beyond it, where, in a hand- of a great window, so placed as to catch
some suburban villa, the ducal head- the faintest sigh of the breeze, one
quarters were established. Tin' plain usually finds carpets and cushions form-
near by was white with tents, and col- ing couches, where the rich Bulgarian
umns of men filled the only two roads lakes his siesta when the sun is hot.
in the vicinity. Had the Grand Duke The Greek families in Tirnova are
dreamed that at that moment Osman numerous, and the Greek ladies are
Pasha was moving toward Plevna lie renowned for their beauty. The Bul-
would have considered his own arrival garian peasant women are stately, and
in Tirnova as hazardous. Put in igno- possess a quiet dignity which has a
rance of any such movement every one certain charm. They talk but little:
was ready to declare that, as far as a bevy of girls drawing water at a foun-
Philippopolis or Sofia, the war would be tain are as silent as if at a funeral.
nothing but a 'promenade militaire. They bear pain with great fortitude.
From the plain where the Russians were We had an excellent opportunity to
encamped, Tirnova appeared rather like observe this trait in their characters
a faery city risen at the command of an when from Roumelia came
the fugitives
enchanter than like a town built by crowding through the Nhipka Pass and
human hands. The lowest range of down the foot-hills of the Balkans to
dwellings is placed on a bluff above the Tirnova. For days the streets were
Yantra river, and the highest on a high tilled with half-starved women and girls,
pinnacle of the lofty gorge. The com- most of whom had lost husbands,
binations of color, of form, are infinite: brothers, or protectors in the dreadful
one never tires of gazing at the streets of massacres and around Kski Zaghra,
in
stairs, down which the Cossacks ride and some of whom had been wounded ;
on horseback fearlessly ; at the masses but none complained aloud, and all bore
of slated idol's, from which the inhabi- their troubles with a, patient resignation
tants of neighboring houses carry on which was extremely touching. They
animated conversations in high-pitched cannot control themselves in joy so well
voices; at the balconies, latticed or as in pain. —
probably because they
open, from which one can look dowu have had in their lives much more of the
latter than of (lie former. Women who dreds of these poor creatures on the
have seen their children wrested from Selvi road a few days after their escape.
their arms by merciless and fanatical Old and young alike seemed to have
oppressors, and buried alive, can endure constantly before them the memory of a
almost anything. The women of Loft- dread vision which could only pass
scha who escaped from the massacre away with death. They moved about
with which the troops of Osman Pasha listlessly : life no longer appeared real
whetted their swords wore upon their to them. It is not astonishing, for the_y
faces a, settled expression of terror which had been far down into the Valley of the
was awful to witness. We saw hun- Shadow.
EUROPE IN STORM A AD CALM. 763
CHAPTER EIGHTY-SEVEN.
Previous Insurrection in Bulgaria. —A llctrospcct. — Servia's A'ul to Bulgaria. — Russian Agents. — The
Triple — Rustchuk, Defence— Turkish Transports. — The Road to the Balkans.—
Alliance. Its
Gabrova. — Turkish Time. — Bulgarian Schools and their varying Fortunes. — Renegades.— The
Basses of the Balkans. — Prince TserteletT. — The Shipka Pass. — Mount Nicholas. — Suleiman St.
Pasha and Radctzky.
BULGARIA'S first insurrectionary struggles with the Ottoman power on

movement, in 1802, not only as- the banks of the Save, and by means of
tonished the Turks nit greatly alarmed
I brilliant and tremendous popular efforts
many civilized powers, who saw the from 1800 until 1860 had succeeded in
danger of a general European war in winning from the Porte an unwilling and
this uprising of a people supposed to imperfect recognition of her undoubted
be thoroughly subjugated. The unhappy rights. In 18.") 1 the Bulgarians, weighed
Bulgarians had been groaning under the down by the taxation of a merciless and
Ottoman yoke so long, and seemed so alien government, made a weak attempt
powerless to help themselves, that even to crude conspiracies
revolt, but their
their kindred had begun to despise their were crushed beneath the bloody heels
seeming lack of courage. Nearly five of pashas and their brutal soldiers. At
hundred years had passed since the last, however, the decisive moment came,
fertile plains at the slopes of (he Balkans and the league known as " Young Bul-
and the fat fields beside the Danube had garia" was formed. The Servians gave
fallen into Turkish hands yet during ;
it all the aid that they could without ex-
that long period the oppressed Slavs had posing themselves to the charge of par-
done little or nothing to renew their ticipation in it, and the Roumanian
vanquished glories or to justify their authorities permitted it to hold meetings
right to an independent existence. undisturbed in Bucharest. The Rus-
From the time of the seizure of Con- sians were not backward in expressing
stantinople, in 1453, by the terrible their sympathies for their opi re&sed
Mohammed II., until the middle of the Christian brethren, and promised them
nineteenth century, the Turk encoun- arms and money. The noted Midhat
tered no resistance from the natives of Pasha, who afterward became a fugitive
the land which he had invaded. Even from his own country, was then governor
the Austrians had done something of Bulgaria. He speedily discovered
toward the liberation of the Slavs the ; the conspiracy, and rightly attributed
Bulgarians had done nothing. But at its origin to Servian influence. As he
last the breeze of revolution passed over was known to be cruel and bloody-
the prostrate people, and awoke them, minded, nearly all the young men in
as by enchantment, from their lethargy Bulgaria fled into neighboring States;

of ages. but Midhat succeeded in securing fifty-
Scrvia had been inspired to resistance four, who were carried in chains to
by the contemplation of Austria's many Rustchuk. Ten were hanged the rest ;
7(34 EUROPE llf STORM AND CALM.
were exiled. Midhat pretended to be sians were indignant at the manner in
moderate anil clement, and endeavored which the Turks treated their subjects;
to induce the fugitives to return ; but that some day there would be a great
they with one accord manifested a war for Christian liberation that pcr- ;
singular indisposition to venture into his haps the powerful, although perturbed,
clutches. Very shortly afterward the rule of the Bulgarian Czars might be re-
hypocriticalMidhat showed his true vived ; and that unceasing labor to pro-
colors by taking violently from an vide money and crops consump-
for the
Austrian steamer at Rustchuk two per- tion of rapacious tax-gatherers was not
sons furnished respectively with Servian the chief end of man. Sometimes a
and Roumanian passports, but who had Russian agent, who, despising the Turk,
been denounced to him as agents of the hardly took the trouble to disguise him-
" Young Bulgaria" committees, and self, fanned the feeble flame in the
causing them to be shot. This arbitrary peasant's breast, or aroused a vague en-
aet aroused the indignation of Europe, thusiasm in the mind of the dull village
and the zealous Midhat was recalled priest,by hinting al "crusades" to come,
from his post, the Porte consoling him, Russians were familiar figures to the
nevertheless, with the announcement Mussulmans, who knew very well that
that he was " invited to higher func- Muscovite officers had as early as 1840
tions." studied the great routes from Rustchuk
June of 1SG8 a formidable cxpedi-
In to Adrianople, and from Widdin to
tion of insurgents was ready to enter Philippopolis, with especial view to the
Bulgaria, when the assassination of the march of numerous army corps, and had
reigning prince in Scrvia and the conse- carefully jotted down on war maps the
quent confusion into which that province names of even the most insignificant
was llvown destroyed the needed unity villages. The Austrian consuls sympa-
of movement. The General appointed thized openly with Bulgarian sufferers,
to the regency of Scrvia during the and many a Turk spat upon the ground
minority of young Prince Milan was as he saw the representatives of Francis
unwilling to risk anything by ailing the Joseph passing to and fro. Those people
Bulgarians Despite this discourage- who to-day wonder at the " triple alli-
iiient, an heroic little baud of one bun- ance " have only to review the history of
dred and fifty youths entered Bulgaria the century to discover that after 1S48
an 1 marched toward the Balkans, trying Austria ceased to afford the Turks the
to arouse the timid peasantry. After poor consolation of moral support, and
two or three sharp fights these young was no longer an obstacle to the plans
martyrs to the cause of liberty were sur- of Russia for Bulgarian redemption,
rounded in the mountains not far from The Austrians had been compelled in
the old town of Gabrova, and nobly per- times past to intervene in Bosnia for the
ished to a man, not one of them consent- protection of Christians ; and they quite
ing to lav down his anus. understood the motives which led Russia
Then ensued another series of years to make gigantic preparations for a war
of apparent inaction. But the Bulgarian which might be long postponed, but
peasant was beginning to think, to hope, which could not be averted,
to dream, of independence. lie heard Purely local insurrections are easily
vaguely that the Austrians and the Pus- suppressed in a country where the most
EUROPE IN STORM AND CM. '!.
r
7C,. )
horrible punishments may be inflicted rection was put down were the brethren
without mercy. The Turks soon dis- of the followers of Osman Pasha, who
covered that the Bulgarians had awakened buried little children alive at Loftscha
into new and they forthwith began
life, and mutilated wounded men while tin'
a reign of terror. The tax-gatherer was breath was still in them as also of the ;
more exacting than before innocent ; Kurds, who, at Shipka and Plevna, cut off
people were murdered on the pretext the heads of gasping soldiers, an act —
that they were plotting against the gov- of barbarism which in this century has
ernment and the wretched Slavs' cup
; been heretofore heard of only in Central
of misery was full to running over, when Asia, or among the savages on the
a new sorrow came to them in the arrival Ashantee coast.
of large bands of marauding and lawless Rustchuk, on the Danube, is an inter-
Circassians, encouraged by the Porte to esting although not a very pleasant place.
settle in Bulgaria, probably because it I was there two days before the Russians
was expected that they would overawe crossed the Pruth, and was struck with
the peasantry and spread a healthy fear the general air of decay and neglect in
throughout the towns. The outrages all the government buildings at the wa-
committed by these Mussulman Circas- terside. On the hillwe to the right as
sians —
fiends in human form seem in- — came down the river I saw a huge camp,
credible when one hears them recited. fortified and filled with men. Two
The English Conservatives, when they months later, from the Roumanian side
heard of them, steadily refused to believe of the stream. watched this same camp,
I
them, and to this day find it vastly and from the advanced Russian batteries
amusing to laugh at the phrase, " Bul- I could see the Turkish soldiers peace-
garian atrocity.'' fullymanoeuvring, as if the Muscovite
Despite Circassians, regular Turkish were a thousand miles away, although a
troops, bashi-bazouks, and all the forces hurtling piece of iron soaring across the
at the disposition of the Sultan, the in- Danube among the Moslems
to strike
surrectionary symptoms of 1875—76 were reminded them that the enemy was near
fated to appear, and many Bulgarian at hand. "When the war was first begun it
notables were compromised. With what was expected that a crossing might be at-
sanguinary tyranny these symptoms were tempted at Rustchuk. The Roumanians,
put down, the unimpeachable testimony who had not then found out their own
of Mr. Schuyler, Mr. MacGahan, and strength, quaked as they thought of an
numerous other gentlemen lias ac- incursion by yellow-dyed barbarians
quainted the world. The Circassians from Asia, and 1 dare say that the Turks
who violated maidens, and slew and were uneasy when they thought of Cos-
burned innocent babes by hundreds at sacks cantering through the streets of
Batak, were akin to the murderers who, Rustchuk. As it happened the Turks
under Suleiman Pacha, after the Russian were able do little or nothing to check
to
retreat from Eski Zaghra in 1M77, the advance of Russian troops by
slaughtered ten thousand innocent peas- means of their heavy guns on the hills of
ants. The assassins who burned scores Rustchuk. The railway from Bucharest
of villages and dashed out the brains of brought troops to a station called Fro-
helpless old men in the districts around tesli,quite out of reach of the Turkish
Selvi and Gabrova after the last insur- cannon, and thence they took up their
7()ti EUROPE 1\ STORM AND CALM.
march ;it sonic little distance from the bered list of them, and indemnity was
Danube's hanks as far as Simnitza, required of the Turkish government
where they crossed into Bulgaria. Laud- before peace was concluded. Omar Pasha
ward, the Turks defended Rustchuk made Rustehuk celebrated in 1854 bv
well, and after nine months of fighting the valiant and manner in
energetic
no one of the fortresses composing the which he crossed the Danube from that
famous quadrilateral was yet taken. town with forty-five thousand men, after
On the whole, Rustchuk disappointed having driven the Russians from an
me. I felt as if I had a right to expect island where they were strongly en-
more of Oriental atmosphere in this, the trenched.
liist Turkish town I had set foot in. The From Rustchuk a road which must be
railway with its noisy locomotives of- accounted good a country where there
in
fended me : it savored too much of West- are few decent highways leads through
ern Europe; but the dark-faced, scowling Tirnova and Gabrova to the Shipka Pass,
men standing sleepily on the barges at in the Balkans, and across the moun-
the wharves, brandishing bright cans tains to the rose-embowered villages of
solemnly, as if in feeble protest at the Roumelia, and to Adrianople. Gabrova
Russian advance, which they knew is as picturesque as Rustchuk is corn-
would soon begin floundering in Rouma- monplace. From Tirnova the road to
nian mud, were certainly as unlike Eu- 1
the Balkans leads across some mighty
ro| icans as human beings could well be. hills, from whose summits one catches
They seemed perfectly willing to pass glimpses of beautifully cultivated vales
their lives in and drowsy enjoy-
listless below. The villages are few and unin-
ment of the sunshine and of the murmur viting: the khans are sometimes entirely
of the great current. They did not even deserted, sometimes frequented by bul-
manifest the slightest enthusiasm when locks, sheep, and goats in such numbers
a little fleet of transports, bringing sol- that one prefers to sleep in the opeu air
diers Widdiu from Constantinople,
for rather than to undergo their companion-
passed merrily up stream with blood-red ship. AtGabrova, whoever mounted to
crescents on their flags and with white- the principal hall of thekhan was com-
robcil, sallow-faced Imaums solemnly pelled to pass through an incomparably
parading : mg the soldiers squatted and to dispute passage with
filthy stable,
cross-legged ou the decks.

Verily, a rak- an elderly ram who occupied the lower
ishcrew was to be found abroad on the step of the stairs during the heat of the
Danube in those few days before the day as well as at night, and who fre-
Russians arrived in Lower Roumania. queutly was little disposed to disturb him-
Many a quaint, old-fashioned Turkish self for strangers. But the private houses
ship, looking like a galley of the tit'- of the better class iu Gabrova are cleanly,
teenth century, and painted in glaring and sonic of them make pretensions to
colors,was worked over to the Rou- elegance. The town rambles alone- the
manian shore in the night, and many a. banks of the Yantra, which there brawls
peaceful shepherd's cottage was invaded ami tollies over broad, Hat stones or
by murderous Circassians. The murders bounds down into deep pools at the
and robberies committed in this manner base of large, black rocks; and some
were so numerous that the Roumanian of the cottages appear to spring from
minister of foreign affairs kept a imm- the very bosom of the stream. Stone
bridges span the water here and there, doing so ; and nothing was more per-
and clusters of houses with queer balco- plexing to me than to hear a bevy of
nies and misshapen windows are tenanted them ringing in the small hours of the
by industrious artisans, who labor all night. Turkish time is three hours faster
day at the preparation of textile fabrics, than that of Western Europe and I have ;
for which Gabrova is famous. At night been frequently awakened by a peal of

the rumbling of dozens of water-wheels bells sounding six, to find no one stirring
is heard. Almost every house is so placed in the town, and to hear nothing save the
as to enable its inhabitants to avail them- harmonious hum of distant water-wheels

selves of a •water-privilege." Every or the purling of the Yantra.
morning a long procession of Gabrova's But by four o'clock folk were astir. I
prettiest maidens arrives at the Yantra, do not speak of the Russian soldiers, who
each girl loaded with the family wash- were coming and going at all imaginable
ing. The beauties tuck up their skirts times. It seemed as if now and then they
and proceed to their work in the hearti were anxious to make their lines seem
est manner. Strangely enough, they arc stronger than they were by going round
silent at their toil. I found this people and round, as supernumeraries do on the
in the neighborhood of the Balkans curi- stage. But the towns-people came out a
ously devoid of animation on occasions very long time before the sun did. The
when one would naturally expect it. In men, who seemed to sleep in their coarse
a market-place the women never chatted, black caps, laid them off as they came
and tlie men seemed to joke in a weary, to the stone fountains, where they washed
faint-hearted fashion. The same num- their hands and faces. No sooner had
ber of persons in France or Spain would they shaken the water well about them
have made the heavens ring When than they lighted cigarettes and began
the prisoners were brought down from talking listlessly. Presently they were
the Shipka 1'ass into Gabrova, and, with compelled to make way for a crowd of
their hands tied, were marched over one bare-limbed girls, each bearing heavy
of the bridges, with Bulgarians guarding buckets balanced on the ends of a slen-
them, there was no murmur either of der pole ; then matrons with their ket-
exultation or execratiou among the Ga- tles appeared ; and children were brought
brovans. Feeling was deep, but audible out and treated to vigorous duckings.
expression of was lacking.
it The horses came next, and refreshed
The Bulgarians were always largely in themselves leisurely while their guardians
the majority in this town of twelve or relighted innumerable cigarettes and
thirteen hundred houses, and the Turks lazily crossed their legs. Most of the
hail during the last two generations ac- artisan class, in appearance lazy, are
corded it certain rights, although they really very industrious, and are seated at
had felt constrained to burn no longer
it their looms or benches before daylight.
ago than 1798. Gabrova. by special Some of the streets of Gabrova are filled
clemency of the Grand Turk, was al- with small shops inandwhich clay floors
lowed bells in its churches, and facili- grimy benches are the only embellish-
ties lor founding schools were given the ments. These are the workshops of the
wealthy inhabitants. The happy Chris- gold and silver, who have
artificers in
tians had of course placed bells wher- always made the interiors of their estab-
ever there was the slightest pretext for lishments as poor and uninviting as pos-
7fi« EUROI'E IN STORM AND CALM.
sible, in hopes that they might escape correspondence against the government.
the rapacity of the Turk. Many of the The pasha of Tirnova was notified, and
goldsmiths buried all their really beau- at once ordered the closing of the Ga-
tiful stock at the beginning of the war ; brova schools and the imprisonment of
and their only fear was that if the Turks the instructors. It was only after long
should beat the Russians and reenter incarceration and great difficulties that
Gabrova, they might try to force the the Bulgarian community succeeded in
Christians by torture to tell where their explaining matters. The offending mail-
treasures were hidden. carrier was not even reprimanded by the
Bulgaria proper, with a population of Turkish officials.
three million one hundred thousand in- In the vicinity of Gabrova are numer-
habitants, of whom only four hundred ous villages inhabited by the Pomatzy
thousand were Mussulmans, had not a ("renegades"), as they are called by
single school which could be called na- These worthies arc de-
the Christians.
tional as late as 183.5. In the Danubian scended from Bulgarians who embraced
region there were a few schools where Mohammedanism because of some real
the Greek language was taught, but it or fancied slight of their patriarch. They
was not until the principal citizens of are divided broadly into two classes —
Gabrova took the initiative that the Bul- dangerous fanatics, who were especially
garian school system was introduced. troublesome during the Russian war,
Gabrova has kept the lead which it so and mild Islamites, supposed still to
gallantly took on that occasion, and in have a weakness for Christianity.
1871 had eight scl Is with fifteen hun- The villages of the Pomatzy are much
dred pupils. The teachers had a nar- like those of their Christian brethren,
row escape from a cruel fate not very except that minarets abound in them, and
long ago and the story of the cause
; that their neighborhood is usually haunted
which led to then' arrest and imprison- by brigands. The bashi-bazouks found
ment illustrates admirably the incurable refuge in the hamlets of the fanatical
negligence and bad faith of the Turks Pomatzy when they were hotly pursued
in the administration of their conquered by Radetzky's Cossacks, and if cornered
provinces. The central government bad speedily appeared in the guise of quiet
grudgingly consented to establish a postal and peace-loving farmers.
service, as the commercial people of The Balkans were so frequently men-
Gabrova asserted that it would make tioned in thi' course of the Russian
affairs much better; but the Turk ap- campaign in Turkey in Europe as a ter-
pointed to go and come witli the mail rible obstacle to progress that even the
spent bis hours in inglorious ease, lolling Muscovites themselves had begun to be-
on the divan of a cctfi and smoking his lieve great sacrifices would be uecessan
pipe. This moved one of the teachers in order to cross them. Each of the sev-
to reproach him bitterly, and to threaten enteen practicable passes in this roman-
him with exposure if he did not mend tic and beautiful chain of mountains had
hisways. The Turk at. once complained been carefully studied at intervals in the
to the Tcaimakam, the local Turkish au- lasl fifty years by Russian officers; and
thority, that the Bulgarian teachers were it was because the strength of the forti-
all connected with the insurrectionary fied positions in the Shipka Pass was
league, and that they were engaged in well known that General Gourko, when
EUROPE IN STORM AM) CALM. 769
he made his famous raid into Roumelia, that the pasha commanding the troops
preferred to work his way through a defile at one point was so alarmed at what he
much less known and offering many more, believed was a Russian advance from
natural obstacles. Prince Tserteleff, all sides that he put spurs to his horse
the amiable and able young diplomat, and galloped away without even order-
who was charged witli Russian inter- ing bis men to retreat.
ests at Constantinople for a time, and Mount St. Nicholas, a vast irregular
who accompanied General Ignatieff on pyramid, rises abruptly from among the
his tour to the principal European capi- rolling hills, and seems an impregnable
tals just before war broke out, lias the position. The Russians insisted that
glory of having explored and recom- once in it theTurks could never get
mended the passage through which them out ; and at one time, when it
Gourko made his raid, and after pass- was feared that some of Osman Pasha's
ing which be was enabled to fall upon troops would move forward from Loft-
the rear of the Turkish positions at scha and endeavor to crush the feeble
Shipka. The prince, who was a very forces at Gabrova, Prince Mirsky, of
young man, disguised himself as a Bul- the Eighth corps, had orders to retire
garian peasant and went ahead, at the to Shipka, and, shutting himself and
risk of his life, to make sure both that his men up in the redoubts, to await
the route w as available and that
r
the reinforcements. It is as incomprehen-
Turks did not discover the movements sible that the Turks should have aban-
of Gourko's force. The adventure was doned the eight splendid positions in the
completely successful. Here and there Shipka Pass as that they should have
the little army came upon narrow paths, made no attempt to defend the defiles of
along which it was almost impossible the Yantra, near Tirnova, positions —
to drag artillery, and now and then a where armed peasants might have
cannon toppled into the abyss. But checked the advance of the flower of
after severe struggle the column European armies.
emerged on the fertile plains, and, had A superb surprise awaits the weary
it been properly supported, would have horseman as he approaches the top of
carried consternation to the gates of the pass. Turning to glance occasion-
Adrianople in less than six weeks. all}' behind him he sees only ranges of
It is but a short ride from Gabrova to dull hills clad in monotonous green, or
the picturesque where the fa-
heights perhaps fields of waving grain but, ;
mous commences, and from

.Shipka Pass looking forward, he suddenly has spread
thence a rough road leads around the before him the ample panorama of ex-
bases of frowning summits and up hills quisite Thrace, one of the gardens of the
until an elevation of a little less than world, —a land where millions of roses
five thousand feet is reached. The subtle perfumes upon the air,
distil their
Turks had crowned every peak dominat- and where villages are embowered in
ing the road with well-built redoubts, vines and flowers. Shipka means "wild
and had stocked them with immense rose," and Shipka village, lying a long
quantities of provisions and ammunition. way down the descent on the Roumelian
All these stores, when the Mussulmans side, justifies its name.
Yet here in this
found themselves assaulted in front and loveliest region,where nature seems to
rear, fell into Russian hands. It is said have lavished comfort upon man, in July
' .
of 1877 such horrors were enacted although they assaulted ferociously,

that the stoutest heart quails even they could not move the veteran
at their reci- Radetzky from
tal. Suleiman his tracks. He
Pacha the Cruel J-gL drank his scald-
swept with the ^
.- ing tea morn-
besom of des- J£§ \ \&j^s^~~ v
' u §i noon, and
f
tr notion all *;-". 't. >,
' niilht, and held
those sections tfi. f *
¥f'/, .
''/•
\ on valiantly
from which the against death
^'^^?"i« «£JL
Russians were ii2§fil§ffiFl^ "'^^'h ^m^ ;
:
'""' ''" '
lllil
until ftourko
forced hastily to
^MKL^^S^T^ faffl^^
retirewhen the ,*';' > ^'"-'^^"S^Ê*®* 1 v^VxTt crossed the Bal-
advance was ar- v< <:
— W4^ jSp' v î^-C^'V kans once more
rested
in
by
appari
the
'''^j^^f V^PP J^^fc
I *j|f - '^hH£
& ''.
:iS
v P asses
dilJicult
quite
as
is .W, \ff '
tion of Osman /
S~ -i^m^ <§!» that which served
and his soldiers
;
''
V \^§f£i ' "> m "" the
at Plevna and -%; ^v-^^to m st '
occasion.
Loftscha. Sulei- ^ !$» Then Radetzky
J*
"* and drove
man, fresh from rose,
the massacre of the Turks before
Bulgarians i.ekending a mountain pass.
women and ||im ,, mvn ; nto
babes, threw himself into the gorges Roumelia, were stopped
where they
of Shipka, and sent his butchers by Russian troops and were compelled
to be butchered in their turn ; but, to surrender.
—
CHAPTER EIGHTY-EIGHT.
The Mutilation of the Russian "Wounded. — A Convent for Women near Gabrova, and Bulgarian
Monasteries. — Through the Balkans.— Kezanhk. — Rose Culture and the Rose Gardens.
Eski Zaghra and the .Massacre. The — Malice of Suleiman Pasha. — The Vengeance of the Agas.
— The Bulgarian Army. —
The National Life of the Bulgarians.
TT^HK story of the horrible mutilation from the spot where the burial took
-L of the Russian wounded in the place.
Shipka Pass is pretty widely known, hut On the slope, and not far from Ga-
an incident connected with it will serve brova, is a convent for women, where
to show what fierce pride some of the the nuns lead a life quite different from
Asiatics took in their fiendish perform- the self-sacrificing existence of the Cath-
ance. When the Russians occupied the olic devotee. They are at liberty to re-
positions which the Turks had abandoned ceive whom engage in
they please, to
late in July they found a number of any industry which suits them, and to
bodies of both soldiers and officers dis- go into the world whenever they like.
membered and treated in the must shock- But a broad distinction must be made
ing manner. Arms, legs, heads were between these convents and those in
scattered about, and there was abundant Roumania, which are in many respects
proof that some of the wounded had a disgrace to the Church under whose
been beheaded while living. Among the patronage they are established.
Turkish prisoners was a certain detach- It has been remarked that the Rus-
ment of Kurds, who were asked if they sians at first chose comparatively un-
could throw any light on the subject of frequented and difficult passes in the
the mutilations. One or two denied till Balkain chain, in order that they might
knowledge of it, but at last a soldier surprise the enemy. But for the passage
stepped out of the ranks and with rude of the main army of occupation after the
joy announced that he had cut olf one Turks were pushed back there were
or two heads that most of his comrades
; numerous good roads besides that by
hod done the same tiling, or would have Shipka. One leads over the Travno-
had occasion offered and that he and
; lialkan, as it is called, to routes which
others carried Russian heads, mounted communicate with Kezanlik another, by ;
on sticks, to the pasha, who made no which Osman Pasha had hoped, in case of
remark whatever. Prince Mirsky in- disaster, to retire from Plevna and Loft-
formed me that on the day when these seha with his army, leads through the Bal-
mutilated bodies were buried, and when kan range by Trojan and Kalofer. This
the indignation against the Turks must last-named pass is practicable only in a
necessarily have been very great among relative sense. The bones of horses that
the rank and he saw Turkish
tile, have succumbed by the way strew the
wounded most careful and
receiving sides of the bridle-paths. The convent of
patient attention at the hands of Rus- Trojan, one of the most venerated of Bul-
sian infantry-men not a hundred rods garian shrines, is accessible from the pass.
EUROPE IX STORM AND CALM.
There forty or fifty monks live in ease Danube ; the houses are painted in
and comfort, and cultivate fields for miles tender colors, which harmonize delieious-
around, — fields which j ield fat reve- ly with the landscape ; and nearly every
nues. These Oriental monks thoroughly residence, rich or poor, has a little
understand good living: their cells pleasaunce-ground attached to it, in
are up with divans and carpets;

fitted which vines, rosebushes ami fruit trees
they regale themselves with coffee and make a very agreeable shade. The
liquors and on the walls hang dozens
; many minarets, the latticed cages which
of stout weapons, which are used in denote "harems" in the Turkish quar-
repelling the assaults of enterprising ter, the market-places, with their fantas-
brigands or in securing game for the tical ranges of low wooden shops, — all
monastic larder. remind one of the far Orient. Kezanlik

The most imposing and delightful part was Turks
rich before the return of the
of the route through the Balkans by Tro- to it after Gourko's and many retreat,
jan and Kalofer is the passage of the of the young Bulgarians engaged in
Rosolita, nearly six thousand feet above commerce arc men of intelligence and
the level of the sea. Vast peaks, around refinement. In conversation with one
which eagles hover, looking down with of them who was preparing to remove
curiosity upon the adventurous travel- his merchandise by way of Bucharest
ler, rise into the air; below are yawning to Vienna. I was surprised to hear him
precipices, overwhose edges one can see say that the " Bulgarian question " could
yet other peaks with their tops wreathed be settled only by the retirement of the
in mist. The passes which lead out of Mussulmans from the province. "The
Servia across the Balkans into Bulgaria two races," he said very emphatically,
have from time immemorial been infest- " cannot live together on terms of
ed with brigands, and the guard-houses equality such as any conference after
are surrounded by little cemeteries, which the war would doubtless be willing to
contain the remains of assassinated trav- establish. The great, majority of the
ellers. Both the Servian and the Turk- Turks consider us as inferior animals,
ish governments pretended to keep strong made to be oppressed by them anil to
military forces on these roads for the serve them. They do not hate our
protection of the innocent, but the bashi- religion, but they take advantage of the
ba/.oiiks representing Turkey were gen- social inferiority which it imposes on us
erallv in league with the brigands, or to rob us, to abuse us as any tyrannical
with trifling temptations were capable of invaders might, and to murder us when
crime on their own account. we resist. Even if there were any
Kezanlik, through which the tide of willingness on their part to agree tem-
war swept rudely, lies in a sweet vale porarily to some amicable arrangement,
not far below the village of Shipka. they would not long keep their promise,
On every side it is surrounded by ear- and our lives would be made wretched
dens in which the delicate and beautiful by revolution after revolution. In their
rose of Damascus is cultivated expressly eves we are but dogs, unworthy of
for the perfumes to be distilled from it. their attention save as servitors. This
On this side of the Balkans the villages point of view must never be forgotten
have a more decidedly Turkish aspect in estimating Turkish conduct in these
than those between Gabrova and the provinces. The Turk desires distinctly
to live by the product of our toil, and brought to it all day long. The priest
not to be in harmony with us. He must comes to bless the Arcadian labor, and
go, as lie di<l from Servia, or (here will to chat with the women who strip the
he no peace for ns." This gentleman rose petals from their stems. As many
also thought that unless the Russians as eighty thousand roses are often used
should leave an occupying force large in the preparation of a single small flask
enough to upon the Turkish
enforce of the precious odor.
population any measures supposed lo lie The thriving region extending for
the natural fruit of the war they would miles around Eski Zaghra, the next town
have rendered lint a sorry service to of importance in this part of Bulgaria,
Bulgaria. was so utterly ruined by Suleiman's vin-
The very name Kezanlik commem- dictive campaign that it must remain a
orates an injustice on the part of the partial desert formany years. The sol-
Turks against which the inhabitants diers and the Mussulman peasantry aimed
were compelled to protest. Tradition especially at the destruction of the
recounts that long ago a. sultan making churches and schools in the villages near
a tour in tin' mountains saw a great Eski Zaghra, as well as all Christian in-
number of children dressed in white stitutions in the last-mentioned town.
robes coming to meet him, whereupon Every farmer was accused of having
he cried out, " Neh interler bun atchkia given aid and comfort to the Russians,
Tcezanlikf" (" What do all these pretty and was massacred as soon as caught,
babes in white gowns want of me?") without trial and without any semblance
The last word in the sultan's sentence of justice. I doubt if there has been
became the official name of the locality. such wholesale slaughter murder on so —
But tradition does not state what answer large a scale — at any previous time in
the sultan made to the prayer of the the present century. The testimony
children, for they had come to tell him was unimpeachable. Thousands of fu-
that because their fathers had been gitives straggled across the mountains
violently incorporated in the Turkish in the first days of August, and spread
army their fields were uncultivated and the details of their misery throughout the
their village was in ruins. Probably the Yantra valley. Gabrova and Tirnova
sultan said that it was all Christian hum- were filled with motherless children and
bug, and sent the children away with with childless mothers. A more piteous
empty compliments. spectacle than these poor wretches pre-
The men and women in the rose gar- sented as they made their way through
dens and around Kezanlik are of fine
in the Shipka Pass could not be imagined.
stature and graceful manners, and, al- More than sixty villages in the plain
though the women are rarely beautiful near Eski Zaghra were burned ; the pop-
they possess that nameless charm born ulation had fled to the large town,
of perfect health and proud virtue. The thinking there to secure protection from
distillation of the essence of roses is a the Russians or (he fragments of the
very simple process, both in the large "Bulgarian Legion ;" but they found the
establishments in the town and in the Russians already preparing to retire be-
farmer's own abode. Sometimes the yond the Balkans. Those who remained
still is erected in the shade of a. huge were nearly all killed. The Bulgarian Le-
tree. Donkey-loads of flowers are gion fought as well as it could for the de-
fenceofEski Zaghra, but was of course no who had left their farms at the approach
match for the trained troops of Suleiman of the Russians now gratified their de-
— veterans who had been pitted against sire vengeance by massacring their
for
the Montenegrins —
even if those troops own Christian farm-laborers and tenants,
had not been twenty times their number. They personally conducted soldiery to
The Legion endeavored, when it round these farms, and enabled them to distin-
that its ranks were rapidly thinned, to guish between Christian and Mussulman.
retreat, protecting the population; but In the town of Eski Zaghra, where thirty
Suleiman's artillery was brought to bear thousand Christians must have been
on the fleeing women and children, and gathered that evening, the number of
thousands were so frightened that they murders amounted to more than ten
preferred to face death in the town rath- thousand. The Christian quarter was
er than in the fields. As evening came fired, that the murderers might see to do
on the poor Bulgarians began to take their work, and the miserable people saw
courage, for the artillery fire had ceased themselves denounced by Turks who had
and the battle seemed over; but they been their neighbors for years. The
did not understand the devilish malice wounded were despatched with hatchets
of Suleiman. had surrounded the
lie and rude stone hammers in the hands of
town just as dusk fell (this was on the women. Schoolmistresses were sought
thirty-first of duly), and by means of an out, arrested, and 1 need not dwell upon
endless chain of pickets made sure of the sad fate which awaited them. Mur-
his prey. Nearly all who endeavored der finally released them from a captivity
to get out were butchered, although a which was ten-hundred-fold worse than
gentleman farmer, named Naumof, from death. Two beautiful young women,
whom I received inv account of the who hail been highly educated and were
Turkish conduct on this fearful night, es- the pride of the- town, were murdered in
caped some time after the massacre had the most revolting manner, and savagely
begun. As soon as the sentinels were mutilated afterward. The inhabitants of
placed Suleiman sent a force of Circas- Guneli-Mahlesi, of Radni-Mahlesi, of
sians, guided by Mussulman inhabitants Bed) Tepc, of Guneli, of Baghdan-

who had fled from the Russian Mahlesi, populous tanning communities,
advance, but had now returned with the were nearly all in Eski Zaghra. and most
Turkish forces— to begin the work of of them perished there. On the day of
murder. My informant was warned to this massacre I rode with Prince Mirsky
escape bv a. neighbor who, while in the and his stall' from Gabrova to Selvi, as
loft of his own house, heard a noise in it was then supposed that the Turks
the kitchen below, and was almost para- were advancing toward the latter place
lv/.ed with terror on seeing two Circas- from Loftscha, and at Selvi we heard
sians pillaging there. More dead than plenty of tales of atrocities quite as
alive, he managed to leap from a small awful as those which a few hours later
back window, and gave the alarm to were echoed from Eski Zaghra. The
Naumof. The screams of women were Bulgarians paid a terrible price for
heard and flames were arising from Gourko's unsupported advance into
burning houses as the two farmers tied Roumelia.

together toward the mountains. The kaimakaui of Eski Zaglna had
The agas and other Turkish notables the unparalleled effrontery two months
after the massacre to publish a state- louder in their claims for immediate at-
ment which was sent out like a diplo- tention — the Roumanians, for example.
matic circular, from Constantinople, and Sprung from a stout Fiuuo-Ural tribe,
which announced that the Bulgarians which made its name and fame feared,
had fallen upon and murdered hundreds and knocked at the gates of Constan-
of Mussulmans in the foulest manner. tinople more than once which fixed the;
unnecessary to add that this state-

It is residence of its kings at a point near the
ment had no foundation in fact. heights on which the virgin Mussulman
That the Bulgarians were making an fortress of Shumla, " the tomb of the in-
earnest effort to help themselves was fidel," stands to-day and which finally
;
visible during the last weeks of my des- merged with the Slavic race, adopting
ultory tour in their war-ravaged country. Christianity and the Slavic idiom at the
The Russian troops at that time were so same time, —
the Bulgarian of the pres-
few and so widely scattered that the ent has no occasion to be ashamed of
Turks could readily have committed his origin. In the struggles with Byzan-
twice the havoc which they succeeded tium, both before and after the savage
in doing. Indisposition to attack, but had become a Christian, and had estab-
great bravery, persistence, and skill in lished a rude literature, the Bulgarians
defending a place which they had them- appear to have had the advantage quite
selves occupied and fortified were the as often as the Greek emperors had. It
distinguishing features of the Turkish is not a little curious that the first time
campaign on the Danube side of the the Russians, or people from the terri-
Balkans at that particular period. Selvi, tory now Russian, entered Bulgaria, it
a threatened point, had not Russians was Byzantium against the Fin-
to aid
enough in it to fight a small battalion no-Bulgarian power in 903, and to fight
uutil a Turkish occupation seemed im- a battle near Adrianople which enabled
minent, when three or four thousand the Greek emperor to subjugate his
men were thrown hastily forward, leav- formidable enemies. Then the Russian
ing other important points uncovered. prince, who had brought down his forces
But at Selvi the Bulgarians were armed, to aid in punishing the Bulgarians, did
roughly uniformed, had placed strips of not wish to leave the country, and the
white linen ornamented with the cross Greek emperor was compelled to drive
over the red skull-caps which they had him out. The history of the second and
worn under Turkish domination, ami third Bulgarian dynasties — for the
were scouring the country for baslii- national life revived under a new form
bazouks and Circassians. The least ru- aftertwo severe trials, during which its
mor placed every man on the alert, and enemies fancied that they had crushed
it was pleasant to see these men, who it, — the history of these dynasties is
had been, in the estimation of the world, filled with records of alternate triumphs
but cowering hinds for long centuries, and humiliations. There is lint one
suddenly asserting their right to inde- epoch in the annals of the Bulgarians
pendence. when they seem to have leaned toward
And why should they not be inde- theChurch of Rome, and that was in the
pendent? The Bulgarians have a history days of Rope Innocent III., who sent
which will bear favorable comparison with legates to stir them up against the
that of many small nations who are much schismatic Greeks. The story of the
776 EUROPE jy STORM AM) CALM.
refusal of Baldwin L, Latin emperor of to facilitate its development into a.
Constantinople, to aid the Bulgarians in strong state.

their proposed campaign against these The assertion that the Turks have
Greeks is familiar to students of his- never used any portion of the money
tory. Great misfortunes befell Baldwin which they wring annually from the
because of this refusal; for the Bul- Christians in Bulgaria for improvements
garians joined with the very Greeks useful to the Bulgarians themselves is
whom Pope Innocent bad excited them susceptible of proof. The road into
against, captured Baldwin and his army Kounielia by way of fshipka was almost
in a great light at Adrianoplc, and impassable for years, but one tine day
finally him to death with cruel
put the sultan wished to make a species of
tortures at Tirnova, where the tomb of triumphal journey to Silistria, so the
the wretched monarch is still pointed route was put in order. If any money
out. Tirnova was long the residence of were expended in public works, those
the Bulgarian czars, and was mercilessly works were sure to be of a military
sacked by the Turks when they took it character, and did not profit the
in 1393. The Turk came into a section Christians a particle. Turkish authority
of Europe which was so divided between has frequently prevented Bulgarians
numerous nationalities, already ex- from making improvements even at their
hausted by struggles against each other, own expense, and any stranger propos-
that be hail an easy task in subduing ing the introduction of commercial en-
the Bulgarians. terprisewas pretty certain to suffer in
One of the bugbears which the enthu- some fashion.
siasticpatriots who formed the league The great abuses in taxation in this
of •Young Bulgaria" fancied that they fertile province sprang out of a system
found in their way was a tendency on planned with marvellous cunning. In
the part of their population to emigrate the cities and large towns the collection
to Scrvia, and for a long time it was of taxes was conducted with some show
feared that nearly all the farmers would of fairness. Each community being
desert to the neighbor state. The Ser- divided into mahcilis, or ••
quarters," in
vians were naturally willing to take which Turks, Christians, and .lews lived
advantage of such a feeling; but now by themselves, the '•chief" of each
that Bulgaria has a chance for her quarter fixed the amount of the tax and
autonomy, her farmers and artisans are collected it. But the unfortunate people
not at all anxious to desert her. Thou- in the villages and farmers in remote
sands of stout fellows who have been country districts were not allowed such
in the habit of working in Hungary, favors us this. Numbers of districts
Roumania, and Scrvia every summer and were consolidated, and "sold out" In-
autumn will now devote their energies order of tln> government at public
to building up homes for themselves in auction for a large sum. The people
their native land. Bulgaria has rich who paid this sum to the government
soil, a people admirably adapted lor were always Mussulmans, and they
highly intelligent agriculture: and now exercised no mercy in collecting the
it needs only roads, schools, and rail- money, crops and stock necessary for
ways — in short, precisely that which ii their reimbursement. They might col-
can never obtain under Turkish rule- lect fourfold the amount justly due the :
EUROPE l.V STORM AND CALM. 77
government would say nothing, having was difficult to understand that they in-
been paid. Or even if some authority tended to withdraw after the conclusion
were inclined to examine into the com- of a satisfactory peace.
plaints of the wretched Bulgarians, a From ISclvi I went forward in the di-
share of the ill-gotten gains of the plun- rection of Lofiseha, but found that Prince
derers soon stifled the official's meagre Mil sky had ordered the troops to go into
sense of justice. The peasant might intrenchments, which indicated a delay
become proprietor of land in various of many days before active operations
ways, although the whole country was were likely to begin. As I rode across
recognized as being the personal prop- country through dozens of Mussulman
erty of the sultan. But whenever a villages, some of which contained as
pasha or an envious Turk wished to many as eight thousand inhabitants,
acquire a farm which a Bulgarian had alarms were frequent, but generally
been laboriously developing for years, causeless. In a Christian village, set
he had but to signify his wish, and for a down oddly enough in the very centre
small sum the farmer was compelled to of a district inhabited almost entirely
see the fruit of his labor pass into the by followers of the Prophet, I found
hauls of another. This proceeding had the whole population under arms and in
become so common in Bulgaria during the a state of intense excitement because of
hist few years as to have excited numer- the rumor that a large force of Turks
ous indignant remonstrances from Euro- hid been seen in the adjacent mountains.
peans inhabiting the country. In time The chief of the village had canned the
of war there was no end to oppression arrest of two travelling peasants sup-
by the Turks. It might literally be said posed to be spies, and the visages of
that Christians had no rights, and that these worthies as they sat upon the
if they had possessed any they would ground waiting until the villagers could
not have been respected. find time to shoot them were not pleas-
All these things may be spoken of as ant to contemplate. The madman of
in the past, for it is reasonably certain the hamlet had felt it his duty to join in
that the Bulgarians will never again sub- the affair, and as I rode up he came car-
mit to Turkish taxation. When I left acoling and gambolling out of a field,
Gabrova a blonde-bearded Russian who stark naked, with his head crowned with
had come directly from a Central Asian straw and wild-flowers, and chattering as
campaign to aid in transforming Bulga- fiercely as an enraged ape. The insane
ria was equipping trustworthy peasants are allowed to wander thus unmolested
with guns and badges, and delegating in Bulgaria, as in some parts of Spain.
to them authority as police-agents in I have rarely seen a figure at once so
the various villages in the neighborhood. picturesque and terrible as this miser-
Life and property were soon to become able creature.
safe in a region where Christians had The Turkish villagers were civil
not heretofore known the blessings of enough, probably because strong de-
the security which is the fruit of just and tachments of Russian troops occasion-
well-executed law. The Russians were ally passed over the road, although in
as methodical and earnest in their labors my ride of sixty miles I saw only one
as if they intended to fix Muscovite officer and four Cossacks. Several col-
power for ages in the country ; and it lections of bashi-l.iazouks, guarded by
;
77S EUR OPE IN STORM AND CALM.
the newly-organized Christian police, slowly picking his way across the pretty
passed me, their hands tied behind their range of hills which hems in the Yantra,
backs and their faces testifying to a proud a gray-coated sentinel started out from the
disdain. Their gayly-colored garments bushes near a smouldering watch-fire and
were tattered, and their ample collec- bade me halt. The "Svoi" — "Yanis"
tions of weapons, carried in carts behind given in return did not serin In satisfy
the processions of prisoners, indicated him, but after a careful examination I
that a general raid upon this murderous was allowed to pass mi down into the val-
gentry had been organized. Most of the ley between odorous thickets from which
villagers any knowledge of
disclaimed thousands of fire-Hies sent forth their fit-
their movements, and hastened to give ful gleams ; down to a plateau whence
us proofs of their good-will by ottering I could see the lights of Tirnova, like
us water and fruit and by saying pleas- myriads of stars hovering close to earth ;
ant things. Their superb corn, such as down to to the camp, whence came up the
one sees elsewhere only in America, had old Homeric hum so impressive after the
been left untouched by the Russians stillness of the country bridle-paths and
but the watermelons and pumpkins had the forests over and through which I had
all vanished from the crawling vines, just passed.
the soldier finding the temptation greater Meantime the great battle which had
than he could resist. been fought near Plevna had
cheeked
I arrived near Tirnova in the middle the advance of the Russians. They
of the night, and while my horse was proposed, but Osman Pasha disposed.
; —
CHAPTER EIGHTY-NINE.
Plevna and its Influence on the Russian Campaign. —
The Roumanians. Their Valor in the Field. —
Osman Pasha. — The
Despair of Skohclcff. Across the Balkans. —
The Descent Upon Con- —
stantinople—Hostility of England to Russian Designs. The Berlin Congress. —
Its Result, —
The Partition of South-Eastern Europe.
THE picturesque and

Rnsso-Turkish
of the
heroic incidents
war are still
21st of July, and in the great battle of
the 31st before Plevna, amounted to
too fresh in the minds of all to require a more than ten thousand men. The
detailed recital here. After the appear- heroic Gen. Skobeleff — one of the few
ance of Suleiman Pasha upon the scene men of genius in the Russian army —
it seemed as if the tide had begun to did prodigies of valor in these fights,
turn against the crusading Russians. but all in vain.
The taking of Loftcha by the Turks The clitics who say that the Russians
the march of Gen. Gourko to Yeni- had, in their descent into Bulgaria, be-
Zaghra, and the capture of the town ;
lieved that the Turks would offer only a
the defeat of the newly-organized slight resistance, are quite correct. The
Bulgarian Legion at Eski-Zaghra ; the Russians crossed the Danube with in-
retreat of Gourko to the northern sufficient and during all the

forces,
side of the Balkans ; the fortifica- early weeks of the campaign they saw
tion of the Shipka and the HainkoV so few Turks and encountered so little
Passes ; the terrible atrocities com- opposition that they fancied they could
mitted by the Turks upon the helpless go straight to the gates of Constanti-
Russian wounded the sudden develop-
; nople without more than an occasional
ment of a formidable military force out skirmish. Plevna was not only a great
of the heretofore derided and underesti- surprise, it was a veritable disaster.
mated Roumanian army ; the siege of The consternation was
in Roumnnia
Plevna, with its fearful losses and its news of the defeat of
frightful after the
protracted miseries, — all these things the Russians, but this news had for its
rang throughout Europe, and had their effect the awakening of the valiant
echoes in America. The Russians had Roumanian people into an energy which
already begun to exercise their sover- they had not even suspected themselves
eignty in Bulgaria, had proclaimed laws of possessing. When it looked as if the
exempting the Christians from odious Russians were about to be annihilated,
taxes, had abolished tithes, and were that the forces in Bulgaria would be
gradually substituting themselves for the cut off from the Danube, and that the
Turkish authorities, when the severe Turks would cross the historic stream
check in front of Plevna changed the and invade the principalities which had
whole character of the campaign. It is so long been independent of them, the
said that the loss of the Russians in Roumanian government rose to the emer-
killed, wounded, sick, and prisoners, gency. But the Russians sat quietly
during the actions of the 19th, 20th, and down and took the defensive, and sent
780 EUKOPK IN STORM AND CALM.
homo for one hundred thousand men, been such obstinate and well disputed
who were soon on their way. The posi- fields. Osman Pasha had succeeded,
tions iii front, of Plevna were strongly since the occupation of Plevna in July,
fortified and armed with artillery ; com- in turning :i simple village into an elab-
panies of cavalry were dispatched on orate fortress, bristling with redoubts
independent expeditions, with the view and trenches. The Russian wave swept
of blocking the passes through the up from time to time against these for-
lialkans,and the Russians were greatly midable defences, only to be swept back
encouraged by the failure of the Turks again. Skobeleff wore out his heart in
to assume the offensive in any important heroic, but always reckless endeavors,
degree. Meantime the emperor of to break the Turkish lines. On the 11th
Russia lived in the most unostentatious of September there was a great Russian
manner in the little village of Gorny attack on Plevna. A temporary success
Studcn, suffering privation ami diseom- was. however, followed by an ultimate
fort with that temper and
excellent defeat of Kriloff's ami Krudener's di-
entire lack of affectation which char- visions. This "battle in the mists"
acteri/.ed the man. Suleiman Pasha, was described by an eye-witness as
thundering at the gates of Shipka, one of the most thrilling and terrible
attempted in vain to dispossess of the whole campaign. "Along the
the Russians of their hold on the Bal- course of the Radisovo range," wrote the
kans, miking upwards of one hundred brilliant and courageous Mr MacGahan,
distinct attacks in less than seven days. — who was destined not to survive the
When the month of August closed, in fatiguing campaign, but to die in a hos-
1877, the fortunes of the Russians had pital at Constantinople, — " the Russian
improved. They rallied from the check guns could be perceived at work with
received at Plevna ; they held their own figures flitting round them, dimly seen
at the Balkans ; reinforcements were through the smoke, strangely magnified
appearing, and new operations were by the intervention of the fog, until the
resumed with vigor. The Russo-Rou- gunners appeared and the
like giants,
mauian army, commanded by Prince guns themselves, enlarged and distorted
Charles, of Roumania, now sat down by the same medium, seemed like huge,
before the important positions at Plevna, uncouth monsters from whose throats
and sustained a furious attack by Osman at every instant leaped forth globes of
Pasha on the last day of August. This flame. There were moments when
was one of the most sanguinary com- these Hashes .seemed to light up every-
bats of tin' campaign. The Russians thing around them: then the guns and
and Roumanians both fought with gunners appeared for an instant with
desperate valor, and Osman, who had fearful distinctness, red and lurid, as if
expected to drive the enemy from all tinged with blood. Then they sank back
his positions, was compelled to admit again into shadowy indistinctness. The
his complete failure. uproar of the battle rose and swelled
The September combats in front of until it became fearful to hear — like
Plevna are famous, ami reflect the the continuous roar of an angry sea beat-
greatest credit on the courage of Turks, ing against a rock-bound coast, corn-
Roumanians and Russians. Rarely in fined with that of a thunder-storm, with
the history of the century have there the strange, unearthly sounds heard on
board a ship when laboring in a gale." sword broken, his decorations twisted on
In the contest of this day General his shoulders, his face black with pow-
Skobeleff's splendid lighting added new der and smoke, his eyes bloodshot, and
lustre to his alreadyphenomenal reputa- his voice broken. When asked the rea
tion. No obstacle seemed to daunt son of the disaster, he said no reinforce
him; nothing could frighten him. Even ments had been sent him, and added, " I
after the Russians had fallen away from blame nobody it was the will of God."
;
the terrific fire of the Turkish redoubt The Roumanians had meantime taken
Skobeleff rallied
the stragglers
and carried them
forward into the
very enemy's
lines ; his own
sword was cut
in two in the
middle, while he
was leaping a
ditch ; his horse
shotdead under-
neath him, and
he rolled into
the ditch, but
sprang to his
feet with a shout,

and finally led
the mass of
men over the
ditch, scarp and
counterscarp
EPISODE OF THE SIEGE OF PLEVNA.
and parapet, and
into the redoubt.
This little Skobeleff two
affair cost and held the redoubt; but the attack on
thousand men and wounded, or
in killed Plevna, as a whole, was a disastrous
one-quarter of his whole attacking force. failure. This attack had cost, in a few
The wonderful manner in which he es- clays of fighting, twenty thousand men.
caped all harm confirmed the belief The Roumanian army had no surgical ar-
amongst his men that he bore a charmed rangements, and the wounded were left
life. On the afternoon of the 12th he to die for the want of ministering hands.
was compelled to suffer defeat. The The Russian medical and sanitary .staffs
redoubt which he won at such terrible were quite inefficient in presence of this
cost was deserted by the Russians in the tremendous drain upon them, and the
presence of an overwhelming force soldiers looked forward to the horrors of
brought to bear against them, and Sko- a winter campaign with shuddering fear.
beleff came out of the final fight witli his The dead left neglected on the battle-
clothes covered with mud and filth, his fields were mutilated by the Turkish
782 EUROPE IX STiiUM AXI> CALM.
irregulars, and the wounded subjected to last great effort of the Turkish army to
the most atrocious cruelties while the break through the investing lines, its
breath of was leaving them. When

life furious encounter with the Russians and
September closed no one could have the Roumanians, followed by negotia-
prophesied that the Russians would suc- tions for a surrender. Plevna was at
ceed in driving the Turks from their the end of its resources. The Emperor
stronghold, and the enemies of Russia and his suite had been summoned in
boldly announced the complete failure haste to the mount of Radisovo, where
of the campaign for the relief of the they witnessed the failure of Osman
Christians in the East. The Russian Pasha's attempt to secure his liberty.
emperor maintained his head-quarters at The attempt to break through the Russo-
Gorny Studen, leading an active life. Roumanian lines lasted about six hours,
devoting the morning to current affairs, cost Turks live thousand men in
the
having about him only a little suite of dead and wounded, and from thirty
fifty officers, working late at night, and thousand to forty thousand as prisoners
being awakened for the telegrams ar- of war. The Russian loss in this latest
riving from the capital, although they battle was only about fifteen hundred.
came long after the small hours. The Turkish commander was highly
Early in October the Russian rein- complimented by the Grand Duke Nich-
forcements had arrived in Bulgaria, but olas and all the members of his staff,
Osman Pasha had also received new and by Prince Charles of Roumania, on
forces. By and by the Imperial Guard his gallant defense of Plevna. It is
had a serious brush with the enemy, thought that Osman Pasha supposed
which resulted in the capture of a posi- General Gourko to have weakened the
tion completing the investment of Plevna. Russian investment-line by taking away
Four hundred siege-guns were planted so many men when he started on his
about the town. Skobeleff resumed his expedition across the Balkans. It is
old daring activity; General Todleben also said that the Turkish General had
conducted the siege with marked ability ; received imperative orders to fight his
Russian cavalry, scouring the roads to way through the lines at any cost.
the southward, captured the supplies The statistics of the combating forces,
which Osman Pasha, needed for his published at the time, indicate that Rus-
hungry troops. At, the beginning of sia and Roumania had an effective of
November the length of the investing one hundred and nineteen thousand
line was said to be thirty miles, occu- men, with five hundred and fifty-eight
pied by an army of one hundred and field guns. The forces in the Balkans
twenty thousand men. Autumn faded numbered thirty thousand men. with one
into winter; the suffering was great in hundred and sixty-two guns. The army
all the armies, the bad management of of the Lorn, commanded by the Czare-
the Russian camps contributing greatly witch, had seventy-three thousand men,
to the mortality on the Russian side. with four hundred and thirty-two guns ;
In November Came the expedition of and the forces in the Dobrudscha and
General Gourko into the Balkans, the Eastern Roumelia comprised thirty-eight
great and dangerous passage over the thousand men, and
with four hundred
mountains, the evacuation of Etropol by forfy guns. The Turks had.
West- in
the Turks, and finally, in December, the ern Bulgaria, ninety-two thousand men,
;
EUROTE IN STORM AND CALM. T.s:;
with one hundred and thirty-two guns, interests to secure such mediation. The
and in these are included the army of Czar of Russia returned through Bucha-
Osman Pasha by the Russians
taken rest, where he had a most imposing re-
and in addition to these were about four ception, and through the cities of South-
thousand irregulars, who did most of the ern Russia to St. Petersburg, where, in
mutilating and slaughter of the wounded. the great Kazan Cathedral, he was re-
The Turkish forces in the Balkans ceived by the Metropolitan, and stood
amounted to twenty-two thousand men, before the Grand Altar to give thanks
with seventy-six guns, a number of mor- for the seemed likely to
victory which
tars,and a horde of fanatical irregulars ;
liberate the Slavs. Imposing ceremonies
and, one hundred and thirty-five
finally, lasted several days. The Emperor com-
thousand men in the Quadrilateral and memorated the centennial of the birth of
the Dobrudscha, with three hundred and his uncle, Alexander I., and made a pil-
eighty-six guns, and fully sixty thousand grimage among the tombs of his ances-
irregulars. tors, kissing the marble of each shrine.
By this time English opinion was Commemorative medals, struck for the
greatly excited against Russia, and occasion, were laid upon the tombs. All
prophecies were constantly made in Russia was in joy. Prince Gortschakoff
Great Britain that the Russians would remarked that if England wanted war
never succeed in getting over the Bal- she would have to declare it, and if she
kans and on their way to the fertile wanted peace she would have to wait for
slopes of Roumelia, although they had it, —
concise and frosty definition of the
seemingly broken the strongest resist- situation at that time, which would, per-
ance to their advance upon the Turkish haps, have served admirably for a de-
capital. scription of the situation in the spring of
Plevna fell on the t)th of December, 1885.
1877. The Russians had been victorious The winter campaign of the Rus-
in Asia. Suleiman Pasha had received siansin the Balkans and across them
a severe defeat in his assault on the was a memorable feat of arms. The
lines of the Czarewitch, and there was terrible snow-storms, the breaking of
great consternation in the Turkish capi- the pontoon-bridges over the Danube, —
tal. The new Sultan went through the which were the only connection that
farce of opening the Turkish Parliament, the Russians had with their base of
gave an address from the throne as if he supplies, — the inefficiency of the trans-
had been a veritable constitutional sover- port system, the difficulties of marching
eign ; moderate language
indulged in thousands of shivering Turkish prisoners
about the revolt of his provinces, and onward and across the great plains, the
indicated his disbelief that they would destitution which followed in Russia as
succeed in permanently wresting them- a natural consequence of the great sacri-
selves from his grasp. Meantime the fice for the prosecution of the war, — all
Servians had again taken up arms and these gavemuch hope to the enemies of
were vigorously pushing the disheartened Russia, who had now set themselves vig-
and broken Turkish forces along their orously ti> work to prevent the northern
frontier. Europe was indisposed to power from reaping the reward of her
mediate in favor of the preservation of energy and bravery. General Gourko's
Turkey, although England used her best advance over the Balkans, his descent ou
th<' southern side, the surprise and the but an edifice riddled with bullets, inea-
discouragement of the Turks, — all these pable of defense.
things have been ably chronicled by the At this juncture England threw her
brilliant who aecompa-
correspondents shadow across the Russian advance.
nied the expedition, by men like Millet An Englishman of talent, Baker Pasha,
and MacGahan. General Gourko swept was openly aiding scattered remnants of
down upon the town of Sophia, where Suleiman's army iu such resistance as
he was met by thousands of citizens led they were in condition to make. The
by priests with banners, crucifixes, and British Parliament was wild with excite-
lanterns. One of the priests carried a ment, and £6,000,000 sterling was voted
salver with bread and salt. For the as a possible war credit by an enthusias-
first time since 1131 a Christian army tic majority. The Conservative party
was within the walls of the ancient town, clearly defined its policy of at all haz-
Orders had been sent from Constantino- ards preventing Russia occupying Con-
pie to burn Sophia and to blow up the stantinople, and of undoing, so far as
mosques but this order was not heeded,
; possible, the results of her crusade.
Nor was there time to execute such or- Turkey was not to be destroyed; the
der. Meantime the Servians were sue- "sick man" of Europe was to he pre-
cessful. The frontier town of Nisch served from his impending dissolution.
surrendered. Gen. Gourko renewed his London was stormy with rumors of war;
advance towards Constantinople Philip- ; the Jingo faction sang songs, and be-
popolis was abandoned, Philippopo- — smirched Mr. Gladstone with indecent
lis. which might have been occupied in refrains in music-halls. An armistice
August of 1877 if the Russians had was concluded ; but the Russians con-
been in force to crush the intruding tinued their advance, and set up a claim
(Ismail Pasha when he first appeared at to take back the portion of Bessarabia
Plevna. ceded to Moldavia in L85G, —a claim
The Fuad Pasha was
heroic valor of which greatly dissatisfied their Rouma-
of little avail the Turkish army under
; nian allies. Turkey was evidently pow-
his command was defeated and dispersed, erless in Russia's hands, and it was then
At the same time through the Shipka that the English determined to send a
Pass came (leu. Radetzky, Suleiman British (leet, to the Dardanelles, to force
Pasha's army was annihilated, and there a passage there if necessary, and to anchor
were proposals for an armistice. Greece their ships in sight of Constantinople,
was agitated ; was an insurrection

there When the Russians heard that the
inThessaly ; European Turkey was dis- British were about to send a detachment
appearing like " the baseless fabric of a, of the Mediterranean fleet to afford
vision." Adrianople was next aban- protection, in case of need, to English
doned by the Turks, and, while peace subjects residing iu that city, they an-
aegotiations dragged slowly forward, the nounced that for precisely the same
Russians went with confident and swift object they had in view the entry into
step to the gates <>f the Turkish capital. Constantinople of part of their troops.
Turkish troops were concentrated at Gal- Needless to say that this Russian sug-
lipoli the Servians and Montenegrins,
; gestion was received with great disfavor
grown bolder, won numerous victories, in England, and that it strengthened the
Turkey in Europe was no longer anything war party's hands in that country.
Presently the head-quarters of the in the south-east of Europe was extreme.

Grand Duke Nicholas, as commander of •'
If," says a recent writer, " the treaty
the Russian armies, was removed from of San Stefano had Keen allowed to
Adrianople to San Stefano, where the stand, the next step in the southward
Russians were only twelve miles from march of Russia — namely, the acquisi-
the Turkish capital, on the Sea of Mar- tion of Constantinople — would have
mora, and where it was proposed to been even more facile than it is now.
consult as to the signature of the treaty So easy and certain, indeed, that Russia
of peace. General Ignatieff, the able could well have afforded to wait until, in
Russian ambassador to the Porte, who a generation or two, the step could be
had had complete power over the unfor- taken with much less fear of awakening
SIGNING THE TREATY OF SAN STEFANO.
tunate Sultan Abdul Aziz, was the European fears or exciting their jealousy.
principal Russian agent for the negotia- No wonder so sweeping a revolution .-is
tion of the treaty. The arrival of the thateffected by the treatyof SanStefano
Russians in San Stefano was intended felllike a thunderbolt on the nations,
as a counter demonstration to the pres- and caused a feeling of general distrust.
ence of the British fleet in the Sea of With blood-dropping sword and battered
Marmora. Peace was signed on the 3d harness the gigantic figure of Muscovy
of March. 1*7*. in a little valley by the strode over the prostrate and gasping
sea-side, —a valley from which the Turk; but in the distance, behind the
minarets of the ancient mosque of St. dispersing mists of war. stood the Powers
Sophia, in Constantinople, could be seen. of Europe which had an interest in the
The excitement in England over this finalsettlement, and chief amongst them
consecration of the victories of Russia the enormous force of England."
78<; EUROTE IN STORM AND CALM.
The Berlin Congress grew out of this Germany, Austria, Hungary, France,
influence of England, whose conserva- Great Britain, Italy, Russia and Turkey
tive forces were so ably marshalled by had sent plenipotentiaries to be seated
Beaconsfield; but the proposition that round a green table in the Radziwill
the Congress should meet in Berlin came Palace, which was at that time occupied
from Austria. Lord Beaconsfield had I >y Prince Bismarck. Representatives of
determined to call out the English re- Greece, Roumauia, and Servia, waited
serves ; warlike preparations were at the doors of Congress, in the hope that
abundant throughout Great Britain, but they might lay their claim before this
more difficulty was found in mobilizing diplomatic parliament. The Jews had
an efficient army of a size competent to sent an important delegation to plead
cope with the great forces afield on the their cause. The three great Premiers
borders of the Orient. The English of Europe —

Bismarck, Gortschakoff,
claimed that they could, within three and Beaconsfield —
were each at that time
months, or a shorter time, if necessary, suffering from severe indisposition.
despatch from their shores an army of Gortschakoff was crippled with gout;
one hundred thousand men in the highest Bismarck had just risen from a sick-bed,
state of efficiency. "The facility with where he was placed from exhaustion
which we can shift our base and move at from overwork, and Beaconsfield was
pleasure by sea," said the "Times," "at obliged to repose every hour in which he
least doubles the military power of Eng- was not engaged in the deliberations of
land." Despite the signature of peace, the Congress. On the 13th of .Tune,
the Turks were unanimous in theirdesire 1878, this distinguished body met, and
to renew the war with Russia, and the proceeded with its work of putting back
course adopted by England in bringing the hands of the Russian clock. A diplo-
up from India large masses of native matic Congress in Europe is a battle-
troops greatly encouraged the Turks in ground which fierce jealousies, unre-
in
their hope of a revival of hostilities. In and petty prejudices rage

lenting hatred,
Germany and in Austro-Hungary there without much restraint, although the
was a decided anti-Russian feeling. It phraseology employed is of the most
was said that the Russians were estab- delicate and courteous nature.
lishing a theoretical depotism in In the Congress Prince Gortschakoff
Bulgaria; Roumauia itself protested brought out clearly the position of the
against the treaty of San Stefano, and Christian racesin Turkey, explained the
even appealed to the English government antagonism of the Greeks and the Slavs,
to be allowed representation at the and the limits of Bulgaria; Beaconsfield
Berlin Congress. At last this Congress unfolded hischeckmating
policy of
met in the capital to which the political Russia the Austrian designs on Bosnia
;
power had been transferred from Paris and Herzegovina were set forth the ;
as the result of the great German mili- independence of Servia was confirmed ;
tary victories. The French haughtily the Russian conquests in Asia were con-
held aloof, chagrined and annoyed at the sidered, and the treaty of San Stefano
manifestation of their secular enemy's thoroughly overhauled. The dexterous
power in Europe. Lord Beaconstield hand of Prince Bismarck was more than
arrived in Berlin early in June of 1878, once interposed with marked advantage
and was received with great honors. to the harmonious working of the con-
:
EUROPE IN STORM AXO CALM. 787
"/ —;— ;
——
788 ATA'"/'/-: [N STORM AND CALM.
ference. The alterations in European shores of the /Egean. On the other

Turkey effected by the treaty, which was hand it gave Austria permission to
the outcome of the Berlin Congress, were occupy Bosnia, and gave her command
not so great as those intended by the over Montenegro, thus affording a new
treaty of SanStefano, but were enormous, protection against the Turk to the heroic
and had for their substantial result the little country. In short, by the Berlin
banishment of the Turk, who had grown Congress England had made a substantial
tired of the. lands he so long
misgoverned. To-day he
has hut a slender foothold
in Constantinople, and is
menaced even in his pos-

session of this historic
capital. Lord Beacons-
field and his followers
claimed that the treaty of
Berlin placed the Turkish
empire in a position of in-
dependence ; hut this is
altogether too much to

claim for it. It did indeed
protect, what little was left
of the Turkish Empire in

Europe, but that was so
little a> to be scarcely
worth preserving. The
modifications of the San
THE RADZIWILL PALACE. IX
Stefano treaty were, how- WHICH THE BERLIN7 CON-
ever, numerous. The new GRESS WAS HELD.
treaty divided the so-called
Bulgaria into two prov-
inces, — one to the north of the Bal- demonstration
kans being tributary to the Sultan ;
against the ad-
one to the south, Eastern Roumelia, vance of Russia,
to he under the Sultan's direct authority, and the estab-
but with administrative autonomy, and lish i n 2; of a

with a Christian governor-general. The southern Slavic
Berlin treaty reduced the stay of the empire, but had raised no impassable
Russian army European Turkey from
in barriers against the Russian advance.
two years to nine months, and gave to Perhaps a "imperial" policy on
less
Ronmania as compensation for the part the part of Lord Beaconsfielcl and his
of Bessarabia, <>f —
which Russia had followers, —
a policy which should have
demanded the return, — a. greater allowed Russia free scope for her per-
amount of territory south of the Danube fectly justifiable advance in south-
than had been given by the San Stefam eastern Europe, —
might have deter-
treat v. It kept for Turkey the northern mined the Emperor of the North not to
o
55
55
H
X
;
>
2!
3
3
H
7110 KVUnPE IX STORM AND CALM.
have made such gigantic strides in the and tins is as true now as it was whim
direction of the Indian frontier; but the brilliant Frenchman said it. The
Lord Reaconsfield wanted to undertake Turkish empire, with its innumerable
a task for which he would have needed traditions, with its religious formulas
seven times the military resources at his and its fanaticism, its lust of conquest
command. lie wished to get complete and its rapacity ami injustice in deal-
control in Afghanistan, to make the ing with subjugated provinces, will re-
north-west frontier of India impregnable main in history as a warning to civilized
against the Russians, while at the same powers not to degenerate into tyrants.
time he prevented Russia from securing Its rdle in Europe is practically at an
her coveted outlets in the south, and end, and this is a sufficient gain for the
from protecting her kindred in the moment. The en-
south-east of Europe. What he thusiastic Slavs, who
succeeded in doing was in strength- say that out of the
ening Russian hostility to England, two hundred and
eighty million inhab-
itants of Europe
there are eighty-six
millions of their own
nationality ; thatthey
are more numerous
•1 * than the Germanic
race, and occupy' a
wider space in Eu-
rope than both the
Germanic ami Latin
races, doubtless
PALACE OF THE BUI.TAN AT CONSTANTINOPLE. hoped that on t of
recent events would
and increasing Russian determination to he horn the unification of their vari-
wresf from England complete assent to mis and that to a mighty

branches,
a policy of assimilation, if not absorp- Slavic empire would be given the pre-
tiou, in south-eastern Europe. To-day ponderance of power. But this is a
Russia is hammering at the Afghan gates dream which will not be realized for
for apparently no other reason than to many long years to come. Germany
show England that she must be concilia- and Italy have been unified, lint the
tory, or submit to a sudden and powerful Slavs must wait. Before they can bo
assault upon her Indian frontier. merged in one great nation, Austria.
It is not our purpose here to enter into must have disappeared, Russia must
a detailed account of the progress of have given evidence of a resistless mil-
Turkey since the severe blow which it itary force which she does not yet appear
has received from the numerous insur- to possess, and Germany must have
rections in south-eastern Europe, cov- given her consent to the unification, or
ering .1 period from 1875 to 1M7.S. have been forced to accord it. The
Lamartine said long ago of the Turk face of south-eastern Europe lias been
that lie was only encamped in Europe, changed. Out of small and subjugated
have come almost inde-

principalities years, been open to all the influences of
pendent and energetic kingdoms and and the effect upon the
civilization,
provinces. The march of enterprise is whole European community of the vast
visible in the now fertile fields and the changes in this section cannot fail to be
noble forests along the great streams, very great. It is not dangerous to
and in the mountain passes, where it prophesy that in some of the new storms
had not been seen for four hundred that are soon to sweep over Europe the
years. One
of the richest, most fertile, standard of the Crescent will recede
beautiful, and enchanting portions of from Constantinople, and will disappear
Europe, which had been lying in ruins into those Asiatic recesses out of which
and in neglect since the battle of Kos- it came.
sovo, has now, within a period of ten
—
7!»2 EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
CHAPTER NINETY.
Munich in its Stony Plain by the [sar. — The Cold Greek Architecture of the Bavarian Capital.
The Monarchs of Bavaria. —
The Present King Louis. — An Eccentric Sovereign. — Wagner
and Bayreuth. —
Gambrinus in Munich.
P)ERLIN," says M. Victor Tissot, monarch, Louis, is, when first seen, quite
-L-' "is in the midst of a desert of imposing. Here is the " Hall of Gen-
saud. Munich stands in the centre of a erals," a lodge in the Italian style, with
stony plain, which seems to express only niches adorned with statues; the great
the sharpest and the most brutal things." Gate of Victory, with bronze statues
M. Tissot went into Germany with a and reliefs; a church which contains the
determination to see merely the unfavor- royal tombs equestrian statues the war-
; :
able side of things; but he has told the office; the stately library with its beauti-
initli with regard to the situati f two ful statues ; and hereand there are band-
of the great German cities. some churches, always in the Italian
Munich is a part of new Europe, for style.
all that makes it specially attractive to The Germans of the south were am-
the traveller has been pla I on the bitious of creating a new Athens at Mu-
above-mentioned stony plain within the inch, and Louis I., of Bavaria, deserves
last hundred years. The showy and the thanks of his generation for having
pretentious edifices, often and classical grouped aboul him a great number of
refined enough in architecture, seem to clever painters, who were perhaps a little
shiver in tin' cold and inhospitable too willing to glorify the modest triumphs
atmosphere of the vast expanse at the of this Teutonic sovereign. Greece and
foot of the Bavarian Alps. In certain Egypt have both contributed to the glorifi-
old quarters of Munich may still lie cation of .Munich. The visitor iooks with
found the quaintness and picturesque astonishment upon a palace richly ornate
charm so characteristic of the elder with porticos and Tuscan columns, and
German towns; and one is inclined to is told that this is tin- post-office. The
turn to these nooks and by-streets Royal Theatre has a Corinthian peri-
rather than to the sham splendors which style, and is adorned with frescos which
ambitious monarchs have heaped to- depict Apollo in the midst of the Muses
gether, with more reference to quantity nine A colossal museum, overladen
than to quality. with decoration, frescos, and statues.
There are views on the hanks of the and called the Maxim iliaueum, is well
rapidly rolling Isar which are striking, stocked with good paintings,
and it is but a short journey from Munich The people of Munich are very proud
into the wonders of the Bavarian mouu- of their city, and are a little inclined,
tain regions The great Ludwigsstrasse, like the worthy citizens of some of our
or the street of palaces which the faith- western capitals, to gauge their esteem
fill people named after its capricious by the amount of money which edifices
cost. The Bavarian burgher may even is eccentric in a high degree, yet who is
be heard saying, " Such and such a immensely popular among his people.
palace is splendid; it cost an enormous The auniversaiy of his birthday is cele-
sum." brated with loyal effusion and infinite
In what M. Tissot rather satirically beer and fireworks, and the invading
calls the " Hellenic section " of Munich centralization of northern Germain
stands the Propylsea, a superb gate-way, does not seem likely to do away with
imitated from that of the Acropolis at the fondness for the Bavarian royal
Athens, and erected at the time when family. The present King Louis is of
Louis was indulging in fantastic vis-
I. delicate temperament, and it is said that
ions of the union of Greece and Bavaria. his moody and exalted condition is due
This monument was intended to cele- to a disappointment in love when he was
brate the war during which the Greeks but a youth. This story docs not appear
threw off the Turkish yoke, and called to have been conl radicted.
to the throne King Otho I., founder of The King's ruling passion at present
the Graeco-Bavarian dynasty. As fate is music, to which he devotes himself
would have it, the day after the inau- with all the ardor of a great composer.
guration of the celebration of this gate- He is, I believe, the only monarch in
way the ex-monarch of (i came

recce Europe who has a whole operatic per-
home to his native city of Munich to formance given for himself alone, lie
remain there. believes in enjoying to the full the privi-

The museums known as the old ami leges of a king, and esteems it necessary
new Pinakotheks and the Glyptothek that he should be screened from the gaze
contain line collections, which would of the common herd whenever it pleases
have appeared to vastly better advan- him to lie so, no matter how much this
tage had they both been united in one may annoy his subjects or what moneys
splendid structure and one cannot help ; it may cost them. Now and then he
wondering why the Bavarians cannot arrives, late at night, and without warn-
call them by German rather than by ing to any of his servitors, at one of his
Grecian titles. Outside the city, in what many fantastic palaces in some pretty
is known as the Hall of Fame, stands a nook in the mountains or by a pleasant
colossal statue of Bavaria, nearly seventy lake. In his train are musicians, singers,
feet and climbing up into the
high ; painters, and poets. A little intellectual
head of this monster one may look out court is organized: fUes are held, and,
through the vast apertures, which serve just, as the inhabitants of the locality
as eyes, over the city, the plain, and its are beginning to congratulate themselves
environing mountains. Munich looks on the presence of their sovereign, he
unreal and unsubstantial, and as if a whisks himself off with all the swiftness
great wind sweeping down from the Alps of a prince in a fairy-tale. He has long
might blow it away. ago given up dreams of any political
Stories of the old King Louis of Ba- rdle in southern Germany; yet, unlike
varia, father of the present sovereign, the King of Wurteinburg, he has not, in
are so well known that I shall not effacing his own importance before that
attempt to recite them anew. His artis- of the dominating Prussian influence,
tic and amatory ambitions have been run the risk of losing the respect of his
imitated in some measure by his sou, who people. When his ministers annoy hiiu
with stories of what he must or must they criticised the King's generosity to
not do In' takes t<> the mountains him, had chosen Bayreuth as his resi-
and leaves them in the lurch. On one dence, King Louis was willing to build
occasion, in 1873, in order to escape him whatsoever he wished.
them, lie trotted off through the Tyrol, Thither came the great artists from
and the ministers caught his royal skirts Vienna, and there Hans Richter, who
just as he was disappearing into Italy. has since become so famous in London
It is him that when a pale-
said of with his orchestra of a hundred musi-
faced ambassador brought to him the cians, picked from all the musical theatres
news that the Prussians were in Nurem- of Germany, brought forth the master's
berg, and would soon march upon weird and mystical allegories, and pa-
Munich, the King, who was in costume raded before the eyes of the most scepti-
as one of the heroes of a Wagnerian cal people in the world the gods and
libretto, showed but little agitation, and goddesses of their banished Pagan my-
when the ambassador had departed sat thology. It was not Louis II., during
down at his piano as tranquilly as if Wagner's who held court at
lifetime,
nothing had happened. Bayreuth: it was Wagner himself; and
The King of Bavaria was so fond of none more sincerely mourned for the
Wagner that he could refuse him nothing. great composer, when he finished his
On one occasion Wagner asked the King laborious and agitated life in the calm
to tear down a whole quarter of the city, seclusion of Venice, than did the youth-
and build in its place a vast amphitheatre ful ruler of Bavaria.
which would hold fifty thousand specta- There is one monarch who stands quite
tors; and King Louis was about to as high in the affections of the populace
giant the request when a practical sub- of Munich as King Louis, and that is
ject [nit into his head the question of the venerable Gambrinus, to whose court
expense, and suggested that to raise all The breweries
classes daily repair.
the money would wreck the treasury of of Munich are renowned throughout
the kingdom. Without a monarch like Europe, and the drinking-halls connected
Louis II., of Bavaria, a composer like with them offer a very curious spectacle
Richard Wagner would have found it when night has closed down over the
difficult, if not impossible, to carry out capital. In Munich there is in the even-
his grandiose conceptions. The great ing none of the exuberant gayety and
musical theatre of Bayreuth, with its vivacity of the Paris streets ; but there
scenic and orchestral effects, could is plenty of wassail within the walls, and
.scarcely have been created in northern deep drinking is one of the principal
Germany. The old Emperor of Ger- pastimes, especially of the middle and
many, it is said, contributed but three lower classes. The Hof-Brau, or Royal
hundred thalers to the Wagner Theatre, Brewery, is the most popular resort in
while the Viceroy of Egypt alone gave Munich. The sometimes laugh-
citizens
five thousand but the royal treasury of
; ingly observe that the Bavarian court
Bavaria furnished the greater part of the has long drawn the chief of its revenues
funds. The King was delighted with from the gratification of the nation's
the idea of having a musical Mecca es- thirst. In former days the court re-
tablished within his territory, and so soon ceived a very handsome annual sum from
as Wagner, who disliked Munich, and the privilege of supplying the rich city
detested the citizens of Munich, because of Augsburg with water, and to-day it
EUROTE IN STORM ASD CALM. 795
gets from the royal brewery a splendid of the winter beer, and celebrates the
yearly Income. new brewing with as much joy and cere-
In the sombre and ill-lighted halls of mony as it would use in saluting the
the brewery after nightfall the stranger advent of a new prince. It is said that
can almost fancy that he has been trans- during one of the October festivals in
ported backwards into the Middle Ages. Munich nine hundred thousand bottles
In one corner of the hall, and near the of beer —
a bottle holding more than a
court-yard, through which stout serving- quart —
were consumed daily by the
men, clad in leather, are constantly roll- thirsty throng. The ordinary stein, or
ing fresh hogsheads, stands a huge gen- stone mug, in use in the royal brewery,
darme, resplendent in a brazen helmet holds much more than a quart of still
and wearing immaculate white gloves cold beer, and is enough quite to turn
and a handsome sabre. This is the rep- the head of a stranger accustomed to
resentative of the royal authority, and he moderation in drink.
looks unmoved upon the guzzling throng In the towns the Bavarian populations
which now and then becomes boisterous, are sceptical, although great outward
but is quieted by the simple intimation attention is paid to all the Catholic forms
of the presence of authority. of religion. In the mountain regions
Around this splendid gendarme's feet the Catholicism is as deep and earnest, as
run rivers of beer, from the overflowing firmly engrafted in the manners of the
stone mugs which the careless drinkers people as it was five or six centuries
come to fill for themselves. From time ago and the gentle wood-cutters of the
;
to time bright-faced servant girls make pretty mountain district in which stands
the and collect
rounds of the tallies, the village of Ober-Ammergau have
from each drinker the money due from called the attention of the whole world
him. Hundreds upon hundreds of the to their devotion by the periodical pro-
working-people bring their meals to this duction of the Passion Play. The war
place, and eat them there while they in 1870 interfered to prevent the repre-
drink the royal beer. And what things sentation of the Mystery Play in that
the populace of Munich eats Nameless ! year, but in 1871 the wood-carvers, who
things, pretexts for eating, the French, had done good service in the army, were
the Americans would
English, or the back again in their homes and gave the
call them: sausages and cold meats un- Bible story with their usual realistic
known in other climes black bread, and ; power. In 1881 the play was again pre-
strange composites of cabbage and sented, and so every ten years will be
onions, —
the prime requisite with the given to the world, in solemn fulfilment
Munich man of the people being that of vow made by
the the peasants of
i lis stomach should be filled, it matters Ober-Ammergau long ago, in the hope
little with what kind of solid food. But that their might save them
devotion
he is vastly particular in his cups, and a from the pestilence which had shown its
lowering of the quality of the royal beer hideous face in their smiling valley.
would breed a revolution in Munich The representation of 1881 was in
more quickly than any tyrannical meas- many respects more striking than any
ure of taxation. which had preceded it at Ober-Ammergau
In October, during the great festival during this century, and I have set down
which lasts six days and six nights, all my own impressions of it in the following
Munich devotes itself to the first glasses chapter.
—
CHAPTER NINETY-ONE.
—
The Passion-Play at Obcr-Ammergau. Tlie Theatre of the Passion.— Old Miracle Plays.— The Chorus
Ober-Ammergau.
:it —
Bavarian Wood-carvers is Actors. — The Personator of the Saviour.
Caiaphas. — Tlie Figures of Peter and Judas. — The Women Interpreters of the Passion. The —
leparture from Bethany, and the Last Supper.
I —
Comments of a Distinguished American Actor.
The Scourging ami the Crown of Thorns. — The Despair of Judas. — Effective Portrayal of the
Judgment and Crucifixion. —
A Beautiful, Holy, and Noble Dramatic Sketch of the Most Wonderful
Life and Death.
THE was falling when we awoke,

rain five thousand seats. It is so arranged
on September morning, in Ober-
:i that every person in it can see the stage
Ammergau, and the sky indicated that perfectly. Although built of common
settledweather could not be expected. planks, without any especial attempt at
But fortunately we were provided with decoration, it is exquisitely clean, and
covered scats in the theatre, and could perfectly comfortable. Sitting in the
therefore afford to smile at the clouds. reserved places, under cover, one looks
We locked at the clock, and found that down upon the open space, in which
it was seven. A neat-handed maiden three thousand persons can sit. and do
served us with a light breakfast, and at sit at every performance, no matter
this early hour she had to hasten away whether it rains or not. The reserved
to the theatre, where she was to appear seats l'ise in rows, like those of an am-
as •• one of tlie crowd " in tin early scene. phitheatre in a lecture-room or a circus.
By the time breakfast was over tlie rain The most expensive places tire farther
had ceased, but the clouds threatened to from the stage than the least expensive
give us more of it at any moment. We ones, and I think they tire preferable,
took our umbrellas and tramped across because the illusion is heightened by
the meadows to the village street, and being somewhat removed from the actors
thence to the theatre. in the pious drama.
The Crown Prince was there before The stage is the most remarkable feat-
us. and the crowds were saluting him ure of the theatre. It consists of a
with shouts of "Hoch! Hoch " Sent
! vast proscenium, which is open to the
up tit regular intervals, and somewhat sky ; of a central stage, inclosed with a
as if they had been told to do it just so portico of Roman form, and "practica-
many times. Wilhelm got
Friederich ble" doors and balconies on either side
into his place presently, and then we of the middle in which the curtain rises.
were permitted to climb along some On either side of this central curtain
wooden stair-ways and passages, and tit there are sets of streets, which run back
last to gain our places in the covered a long distance, and which are quite as
lodges. spacious as many of the real streets in
The theatre of the Passion, tit Ober- Jerusalem. When, therefore, the cur-
Ammergau, is very spacious and solid. tain of the central stage is raised and
1 should think that more than six thou- the scene inside it is set to represent a
sand people can get into it, and there are street, one has belore him a very good
EUROTK TN STORM AXD CALM. 797
picture of the interior of Jerusalem. passion of Christ and the slaughter of the
When it is necessary to represent a tab- Innocents were among the subjects most
leau in a scene in the drama which de- commonly represented. The name "mys-
mands but a small place, then only the tery " appears to have been given to this
central stage is used. The old mystery order of play because it taught the doc-
stage consisted of nine compartments ;
trinesof Christianity, which in the Middle
the ancient classic theatre of Greece had Ages were always considered in the high-
the same arrangement of proscenium est degree mysterious.The origin of the
which the villagers of Ober-Ammergau theatre in France, and indeed, in the whole
have adopted. Doubtless they have ex- of Europe, dates from the introduction of
cellent traditions upon which to found these mysteries in the fourteenth and fif-
their present manner of arranging their teenth centuries. The Comedie-Fran-

stage. They manage it so as to get the caise was founded on the ruins of a
very best scenic effects with the smallest privilege once accorded to the Confrerie
machinery. For example, the spectator, de In Passion, so-called because they rep-
when lie first sits down to look at the resented the closing scenes in the life of
scene, sees the balcony and a door on Jesus. In the early days the mysteries
either side of the curtain, and at first were never considered by any class of
fancies that they are placed there as or- people as an amusement, but rather as
naments. But he is agreeably surprised solemnities it was only with degraded
;
when, in the progress of the play, he manners and a dissolute age that tnounte-
finds that one of them represents the bankery was added.
balcony of Pontius Pilate, and the other The Ober-Ammergau people have done
one that above the palace of Annas. wisely in banishing from their version of
Probably the monks of the monastery of the Passion anything like the grotesque
Ettal or of some of the other institutions or vulgar. Thirty or forty years ago they
in the valley possessed accurate records were wont to represent Judas as torn open
of the manner in which mysteries at all and disembowelled by demons but now ;
epochs have been represented, and how they would not tolerate any such thing
long these representations have been on their stage. When the mysteries
popular. first began, the services in churches in
As early as 1110 Geoff ray, n Norman, France were shortened, in order that
wrote a mystery play called " Saint Cath- people might attend them. Thus the
erine." He had many successors and Church directly encouraged the theatre
imitators, some of them writing produc- as a growing institution worthy of pat-
tions which required seven or eight days ronage. But in the course of time they
for their complete representation, like degenerated, particularly in France, into
the plays of the Chinese, who repre- something dangerously like travesty. In
sent the stories of their gods and heroes. the mysteries represented in the Trinity
One play Middle Ages undertook
in the Hospital and in the Hotel de Bourgogne,
to represent the whole of scripture his- a view of heaven was given with God
tory, and lasted rather more than a week. the Father seated on a throne and sur-
The famous Coventry mystery, which be- rounded by angels. I have myself seen a
gan with tin' Creation and ended with representationof the interior of heaven on
a representation of the Judgment Day, the stage of the Porte St. Martin theatre
must have been one of The
this class. in Paris. Hell was figured by a huge pit
798 EUROPE J.V STORM AXD CALM.
in the centre of the stage, out of which was written by one Andreino, and dedi-
large and little devils arose from time to cated to MariaDo Medieis. The subject
time; and heaven was supported by lofty was the fall of man. The actors were
scaffoldings. Tin: actors, when they fin- the Eternal, the devil, the angels, Adam,
ished their parts, did not retire from the Eve, the serpent, death, and the seven
stage, but sat down on benches at the side, deadly sins. At the close of the play,
in full view of the audience, and waited these sins danced a break-down with the
for their"cues" to summon them once devil, and produced roars of laughter.
mere into action. Not so much attention Milton was so much excited by the
was paid to historical truth in those days sober anil solemn part of the play that
as now. In a mystery of the Middle Ages, he at once began a tragedy, in which
Herod is represented as a Pagan, and Satan and the angels fallen from Heaven
Pilate as a Mohammedan. But to-day appear, and actually wrote an act and a
the ( >ber-Amruergau peasants are scrupu- half of it before he gave it up.
lously careful to have all their properties Some of these things we remembered,
in accordance with the historical record. as we sat looking out over the high wall
One looks in vain for anachronisms in at the right of the stage upon the green
their play. In old times after the scene meadow and the great uplift of moun-
of the crucifixion, a ludicrous dance of tain, or gazing down at the four thou-
devils, or something similar, was given sand heads which were ranged in
to put the good-humor

spectators in regular order below us. There were all
again. But now such a tiling would he our peasant friends of the previous day ;
looked upon as a sacrilege. The peasants they had slept somewhere over night, ami
sit silent, with streaming eyes and trem- were now waiting impatiently for the be-
bling lips, after the curtain has fallen up- ginning. On the left was an orchestra
on the crowning woe of the sacrifice of sufficiently large to produce a proper
Christ. Certainly it is better, in the in- effect in the vast iiielosure. The musi-
terests of both religion and art, that no cians were playing an overture, which
buffoonery should intrude upon the touch- had many claims to merit, above all, a
ing and tender story of the Passion. gentle harmony which seemed full of
Hugo's lively description of
Victor reverence and peace, we'll calculated to
the mystery called " The Good Judg- prepare the mind for the scenes to come.
ment of the Virgin Mary," in the first The sound of a cannon-shot was heard;
hook of "Notre Dame," is doubtless it was the play was to
signal that the
familiar to thousands of American begin and the procession of the chorus
;
readers. Hugo shows that buffoonery marched slowly and solemnly upon the
was still in full force in the mysteries stage. This chorus consists of eighteen
and moralities at the close of the fifteenth singers, whose duty it is to announce the
century. And who does not remember tableaux to he shown, then to fall back
Voltaire's pleasant description of the on either side of the stage when the cur-
mystery which Milton saw when in his tain rises, and when it falls, once more
youth he was travelling in Italy, and to come forward and chant the moral.
which became the germ of the immortal When the whole space is needed for
poem of '-Paradise Lost"? This action, as in processions, etc., the sing-
mystery, which was produced in Milan, ers retire iu single file, nine on each side,
was called " Adam, or Origiual Sin," as they entered. They are persons of
commanding figure, and with sweet and the dramatic unity and the impressive
harmonious voices. The leader of the beauty of the scenes New. from the
chorus is required to make very great ex- The more thoroughly to appreciate this,
ertion, for if he did not his single voice let any one who has been at Ober-
could scarcely be heard by a large i
>< >r- Ammergau during the summer remem-
tion of the immense audience. Some of ber how wonderfully he was impressed
the women have graceful figures, but by that .section of the Passion-Play
none of them are pretty. Their gestures which portrays the wanderings and trials
and attitude while singing show the re- of Christ from the time he enters .Je-
sults of rather formal training. But rusalem until, having taken leave of the
they serve on the whole admirably to till people, after driving the money-changers
up the intervals between the tableaux from the Temple, he retires with his dis-
and dramatic action, and toward the ciples to Bethany. There is a solid,
close of the mystery their music rises to coherent bit of drama, exquisitely pre-
the height of veritable eloquence. sented, and if the story were carried
Behind the curtain in the central straight on. without any interference of
stage, for a few minutes before the Old Testament history, the result would
first tableau is shown, all the actors lie vastly more imposing. Of course,
and actresses kneel in silent prayer. the gentle wood-carvers and housewives
This is never omitted, although they of Ober-Ammergau, if asked to change
have already attended mass at six in any manner the arrangement of the
o'clock. After the prayer each one mystery, would reply with a " Nbn
noiselessly disperses to his or her place, Possumus," from which there would be
the curtain rises as the chorus finishes, no appeal.
announcing the subject to be displayed, The first two tableaux, which are
and falls back, and the audience is symbolical of the fall of man and the
shown "the fall." -the expulsion of— redemption, are not especially impres-
Adam and Eve from Eden. sive. Adam and Eve, in flesh-colored
And, before proceeding to comment tights and garments of skins, have :i
upon the various parts of this singularly very theatrical look. The angel with
impressive religious drama, it may be the flaming sword looks like a rather
well to remark that the ardor which the robust young woman, dressed in blue
Ober-Ammergau peasants have displayed and white. There is nothing whatever
in their endeavors to show the connec- aerial or angelic about her, and the
tion between the Old Testament and serpent twining round the apple-tree is
the New is a constant and the only suggestive of papier machi. But the
drawback to the perfection of the solemn chant of the chorus is touching,
" mystery." The peasants, on the con- and thoroughly explains the idea which
trary, believe that the chief importance the author of the mystery had in his
of their work lies in the establishment mind :
—
of this connection, and here and there
" Dock von Feme von Calvarias Hohen.
they have most lamentably strained the
Leuchtet durch die Nacht ein Morgengliihin
law and the prophets, in order to perfect, Aus des Kreuz baumes Zweigen Wehen.
to their own satisfaction, the analogy. Friedensl'dfte durch die Welten hin."
By means, from
too, of these tableaux
the Old Testament, they detract from The second tableau represents a host
of little children, dressed in white, kneel- pauses in the midst of his disciples, and
ing at the foot of the cross. Some of utters, while the hosaunas of the multi-
these village babes arc attired as angels. tude are dying away, those memorable
This is pretty, but il gives one, as a pri- words, '•
The hour is come that the Son
mary impression, a feeling of disappoint- of Man should be glorified. Verily,
ment, destined, fortunately, to pass verily, I say unto you, except a corn of
away almost immediately. The chorus wheat fall into the ground and die, it
inarches slowly, with trailing robes and abideth alone; hut if it die, it bring-
solemn step, off from the stage to lefl eth forth much fruit," his figure is
and right, and the curtain in the centre instinct with gracious piety. Joseph
is once more lowered. Here the illusion Maier, who personates the Saviour, is of
once more seizes upon the beholder, nor good stature and remarkably line figure ;
docs it leave him readily. He has his face, although not very spiritual in
before him two streets, right and left, repose, has, when he is speaking, some
and these have suddenly been peopled pathetic lines; his features arc not so
with men. women, and children, in distinctly Oriental as were those of his
bright Oriental costumes. Little children predecessor, Tobias Flunger, hut his
run lo and fro, uttering joyful cries pose is noble, and his long black hair
and waving palm-branches ;
grave elders and his symmetrical beard add to his
advance slowly, conversing together prophet-like appearance. In his simple
<>n some event of marked importance; robes he walks like one who feels the
and the women are wild with joy. dignity of an inspired mission, yet who
Down the and under a
central street is keenly of his humanity.
sensible
frowning gate-way they come; men There are hundred persons on the
five
uprise from bazaar and stall to join stage in this remarkable scene, and 1
them, and presently one sees (I know think it is safe to say that not one of
thai in my own case it was with a joyful them appears awkward or ill at case, so
emotion, which should have been at a

1 perfect has every one's training been.
loss to analyze) the figure of the Sav- The high-priests and a group of Phari-
iour mounted upon an ass. moving sees approach, looking wonderingly at
forward in the midst of his disciples. this strange central figure, with its sweet
The impression of reality is greatly resonant voice, its gentle gestures, and
heightened by (lie leisurely manner in its mildness.
which this scene is enacted. Everything The curtain of the central stage rises,
moves as naturally as in real life; and dis, losing the interior of the Temple,
thecrowd increases so rapidly that il is with the money-changers trailing across
difficult lor one to persuade himself that their tables and with the hubbub of
In is not witnessing a genuine outpour- traffic rising among the sacred columns.
ing from a glad capital's streets. The Saviour looks at this scene of pro-
Arrived on the proscenium, the Sav- fanity for a time, then folds his hands
iour alights, and conies forward grace- and hows his head in silent prayer.
fully and with humility. He doe- nol When his prayer is finished, he advances
shrink from the homage bestowed, but to tlic Temple, utters the famous protest,
implies by his gestures that it is not anil asks the priests how they can look
for himself, hut for a higher power of on silently and see such sacrilege.
which he is only the instrument. As he "Who is this man?" cry the money-
changers and the priests. "It is the strange fascination for me. They are
great prophet from Nazareth," answers reproductions from the ' old masters'"
the crowd, and meantime Jesus, ad- conceptions of those disciples, and they
vancing among the frightened traders, have by long practice become astonish-
catches up a rope which had been used ingly proficient in movement and group-
to bind lambs for the sacrifice and ing, so as constantly to remind one of
s sourges the men forth. This is done the paintings from which the modern
in most realistic fashion ; the tables are Christian formed its ideal.
world has
overturned; the money-changers grovel There was an atmosphere of quaint-
in their gold ; 'the seats of them that
L
ness, of rough, commonplace greed,
sold doves " are upset, and the birds about Judas, which never deserted him,
flutter away in all directions. At this not even in the moment of his suicide.
juncture, Caiaphas flies iuto a great rage, The acting of the Apostles is emi-
and makes several passionate addresses nently realistic, at least it was when I
to the people. Sadoe. of the Council, saw them; was no ranting, no

there
demands Christ's authority for his inter- whining, no ostentation. These were
ference. Moses is invoked as the only real men every spectator felt it.
; Jacob
true prophet, and the Pharisees and Ilett, who personates Peter, and Leeh-
priests are doing their best to inflame the ner, who is Judas —
for lie is so natural
people's minds against the new prophet, that no one can conceive of him as acting
when Jesus and his disciples depart for — arc, like Maier, wood-carvers. Ilett's
Bethany. One view of this superb scene, specialty is the production of small cru-
which from first to last contains nothing cifixes, and Lechner is very skilful in
that can offend the susceptibilities of the same line. A lady friend told me
the most reverent spectator, is more that she was lodged at the house of
useful in fixing forever in the mind the Judas, and that he worked late at his
mournful story than a hundred readings carving-bench on the night before the
of Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. It performance.
sticks in the mind as a bit of masterly Judas, as represented in this mystery,
painting does. awakens a feeling of compassion. It is
Caiaphas is an important personage impossible to consider him as anything
in the Passion-Play. He makes, I think, else than the unwitting victim of a su-
the longest speeches, and his stately preme power, singled out to bring on the
figure, in its rich garments, moves great sacrifice. He is wordy, is poor
to and fro through the piece with great Judas, on the road to Bethany, although
effect. Caiaphas is played by Johann he tries his best not to be so. His belly
Lang, who, I believe, was once the is empty ; the cool night-air of the
Burgomaster of Ober-Ammergau. He mountains trouble him, and he is afraid
has a grand head, and the priestly coif- of coming catastrophe. When he
fure brings out all the good points in his repents of his mighty crime, and, in
face to great advantage. The disciples agony of grief and humiliation, throws
are almost without exception very sat- thi 1
sack containing the pieces of silver
isfactorily represented. If any failed, at the foot of the vile tribunal into
it was John, who did not quite seem to whose merciless keeping he has sold his
reach our ideal of the beloved one. But Lord, the whole public feels a vast pity
tiie figures of Peter and Judas had a for him. When Judas was playing this
scene on the day that I saw the Passion- cussion is The money-
long and stormy.
Play, a thick, heavy rain-storm was pour- changers are sent and come in to
for,
ing (in the lir:uls of the three thousand suggest a vindictive programme. One
peasants and other unfortunate people of them announces that he thinks ho
who were ill the uncovered seats; lmt knows a disciple who will betray the
not one individual arose to leave his or prophet. At this statement the Sanhe-
her seat. Judas held them all by the pas- drim breaks up joyfully, ami the curtain
sionate natural vehemence of his acting. falls, leaving the spectator impressed
Even in the little question, "Is it I?" with the reality of a seem.' which has
at the Last Supper, there is a note of been enacted on a rude stage in a
human anguish, which does not fail to meadow in an obscure mountain region.
start responsive tears in the eves of the Then come two other intrusive tab-
spectators. But I am proceeding a little leaux, one showing young Tobias taking
too far ahead. leave of his parents, and the other the
From the moment that the anger of Mourning Bride of the Canticles. These
the priests and money-changers is arc intended to lead the minds of the
aroused, Christ's doom is clearly fore- audience up to the scene of the depart-
shadowed in every part of the mystery ure of Christ from Bethany and his
until the end comes. After the scene leave-taking of his mother. And now
in the Temple the chorus returns, and Christ and his disciples appear in pict-
sings the prelude to a tableau which uresque procession before the house of
discloses the sons of Jacob conspiring Simon. Here the illusion of Oriental-
against their brother Joseph; and a ism is well sustained. The gestures of
moment second tableau, portray-
after, n those who come to invite Christ to
ing the wicked brethren as about to cuter the banquet-room, their costumes,
cast Joseph into the well on the plain their gait, all are grave, Eastern, and
of Dothan, is shown. These are .sup- filled with a certain (juaintness which
posed to be emblematical of the perse- is not without was in this
its force. It
cution which Christ was doomed later scene in Simon's house, as it seemed to
to suffer. They are more vigorously me, that Joseph Maier, as the person-
conceived ami richly dressed than the ator of Christ, achieved one of his prin-
preceding ones from the Old Testament, cipal triumphs. Here he was the man,
lint when the central curtain rises ami suffering from fatigue, from persecu-
displays the magnificent "set" of the tion, from a foreboding of the trial to
Sanhedrim, in which the high-priests come ; but his presence was noble ami
of the synagogue are discussing meas- his dignity noticeable. Just as he has
ures to be taken against the prophet of seated and while Martha is
himself,
Nazareth, one cannot help regretting waiting upon the hungry and tired dis-
that the unity of the action is inter- ciples, .Mary Magdalen, whom the
rupted by tableaux. Ober-Ammergau dramatists consider
This Sanhedrim scene is very realistic. as the same as Mary the sister of
Caiaphas in superb dress, with his breast- Martha, rushes in, and throwing herself
plate ornamented with twelve precious at the feet of Jesus, proceeds to anoint
stones, presides. Annas, rolled in white, them with costly ointment. When the
sits near lain, and the others are ranged woman kneels before him, Maier cries out
around the rooms in tribunes. The dis- "Maria!" and rises with that startled,
deprecatory air which any pine and noble artificiality in its pathos, but in general
man would put on when finding himself itwas very agreeable and when he mur- ;
adored by beauty. I thought it a real murs in the ear of the kneeling mother
stroke of genius. But when Judas " How am I prepared to consecrate my
comes shuffling forward in his dirty work of atonement?" I saw many a
yellow gown, and tries to quarrel with tearful face around me. The tears arise
the Magdalen for wasting so much unbidden at the sight of this Bible made
money in ointment, and the actor arises, flesh, this living and breathing New
saying, " Let her alone, she hath Testament. I know that as I sat gazing
wrought a good work on me," the con- at this scene, a vision of my childhood
trast from meekness to sudden assump- arose before me, — the old school-house
tion of authority is exceedingly striking. with its worn benches, the tender breeze
I think that Simon and his family of a New England summer morning that
as actors would put to shame a good swayed the delicate petals of the flow-
many stock actors in our minor theatres. ers on the teacher's desk, and the soft
It is true that they have the traditions voices of the scholars as they read the
of two hundred and fifty years, during snered book. If my youthful imagi-
which Mystery Play, in one form
this nation had been touched and tired by
or another, has been carried on, to help such scenes as this Passion-Play eon-
them but, eveu with that inheritance,
; tains, how tremendously vital would
it is odd that they should be so clear, have been my memory of every slightest
remote as they are from the refining circumstance in the mysterious an 1 holy
and educating influences of any large drama which began at the Temple and
theatre. I suspect, however, that ended at Calvary But would a Passion-
!
neither the leading nor the minor char- Play lie possible the New Eng-
among
acters in the "Mystery" would thank land hills? Mary, in an agony of grief,
us for praising them as actors. They beseeches her son not to risk his pre-
are filled with the idea that the func- cious and the women with her join
life,
tions which they perforin are religious, with Simon in urging her to enter the
and they at all times think more of the latter's house, and to repose. This scene
religion than of the art. It is very never fails to produce immense effect;
evident that all the peasants and the and its climax is found, as the curtain
mass of Catholic German visitors to falls, in the sombre attitude of Judas,
the Passion share this feeling. who is still meditating over the squan-
The Passion-Play is not fortunate in dering of money by the Magdalen on
itswomen interpreters. She who plays the ointment, and who mutters, '• Those
Mary is sincere, and avoids any very three hundred pence that she spent
sharp criticism, but her actingnowhere would have been enough for me. With
rises to the level of that shown by the them I could have lived content."
personators of Caiaphas, Peter, and And so the holy drama moves stead-
Judas. The only scenp in which it ap- ily on. The little band of disciples, hud-
peared to me that Mary was sufficiently dled around the Master, goes back to
effective was in the meeting with the Jerusalem. It is useless to attempt a
Saviour as he is about to leave Bethany. description of all the pictures which fol-
Joseph Maier has a rich, melodious voice ;
low one another in rapid succession
perhaps there is a slight tinge of until the famous sceue of the Last Sup-
—
per li reached. Tlic Old Testament haps the finest Old Testament tableau, in
tableau, which is supposed to prefigure the Passion-Play, — the sending down of
Christ's rejection of the Jews as a pun- manna to the Israelites in the wilder-
ishment of their sins, is that <>f Ahasu- ness. In this living picture one hun-
eius putting away Yashti and taking dred and fifty children and nearly twice
Esther in her stead. '1 his flits away that number of grown persons are en-
like the memory of a dream, and while gaged. Moses and Aaron occupy prom-
the leader of the chorus is still address- inent positions in the foreground ; youths,
ing his warning to Jerusalem, our atten- maidens, mothers with bains in arms,
tion is invited to a group upon the brow all are stretching out their hands or
of the Mount of Olives. In the distance raisiiig their eyes thankfully to heaven,
lies the Holy City, over the unhappy per- from whence the manna gently descends
versity of which the Master weeps. likesnow. A
second tableau, showing
Here occurs a very dramatic scene, the spies returning from the Promised
amply and nobly written out in dramatic band, follows this superb one.
form, wherein the disciples learn that It is said that all those persons whose
Christ goes towar.ls his doom, and en- religious feelings are somewhat aroused
deavor to dissuade him from it. At against the performance of the sacred
last Peter and John are sent forward to ceremony of the sacrament of the Lord's
prepare the feast of the Passover, and Supper on the stage, go away with their
Judas, who i •> afraid to go t > Jerusalem, objections removed after they have seen
and is selfishly anxious that the Master the Passion-Play ; for, in this part of
should provide for his sustenance, in- (he Joseph Maier and those
Passion,
dulges in a long and powerful soliloquy, who surround him are entitled to the
in which avarice and conscience struggle highest praise. They do not fall short
for the mastery. Meantime, the spies of the mark ; their work lias a sacred
of the Sanhedrim and the money-changers quality in it,. A tremendous sincerity
arrive, and Judas falls an easy prey to underlies their every action. The cur-
their propositions, lie stifles his better tain rises on the hall in Mark's house,
nature, and rushes wildly off to Jerusa- and as the disciples enter and group
lem, there to watch his chance for the themselves at the table, it is easy to see
Master's betrayal. This scene is pre- at a Leo-
glance that they reproduce
sented with a graphic force and intensity nardo da Vinci's noted picture. Every
which never fails to impress the spec- attitude is closely reproduced Peter ;
tutor-;. The money-changers are in grim sits on the ight, John on the left of the
i
earnest., Judas's anguish of mind is real, Saviour. The ceremonv of the distribu-
and, were manifestations of applause tion of the bread and the wine ;:; ;:::•-
allowed in the theatre, there is no doubt formed with the greatest dignity and
that there would be plenty of them aL sweetness by Joseph Maier. This re-
this point in the mystery. markable scene lasts more than half an
The next scene shows Peter and John hour, and th aggregation of detail in it
:
seeking out the house of Mark in Jeru- is so enormous that it burns itself into
salem, —a line little bit of realism, the senses as real. The washing of the
intelligently acted, with immense an disciples' feet by the J
'
iter is done in
amount of detail : and then comes the the most reverent ma or. That these
act of the Last Supper, prefaced by per- men should be able, .mday after Sun-
;
clay, to go through this ceremony without and endeavoring to defend himself from
fatigue or blunder, with grace and rev- the brutality of hh brethren. Every-
erence, and with spiritual enthusiasm, thing in the living picture is studied with
proves that they feel a certain consecra- perfect attention to truth. This vanishes,
tion for the work. The peasants in the and the chorus closes in to sing a quaint
audience take most intense interest in reproof to Judas, who is about to follow
this supper; its representation is an act the example of the wicked brethren.
of high religion for them. The old And now the tribunal of the Sanhe-
women, with tear-stained faces, gaze at drim appears once more before us
the form of the Saviour bending over Caiaphas and Annas are addressing the
the feet of Peter, and when they hear council in the most violent manner, and
the apostle say, "•Thou shalt never wash demand that the Galilean be put lo death
my feet," and hear Christ answer, " If I as soon as he is captured. The discus-
wash thee not, thou hast no part with sion which ensues is eminently natural ;
me," thay are terribly moved. While and when Nieodemus and Joseph of
the foot-washing is in progress, soft Arimathea utter their famous protests,
music is heard, and singers intone a and step down from their seats, de-
hymn. The communion is celebrated claring that they will have nothing
next, and some little relief is afforded to do with the deed of blood, a thrill
to the audience, which has been spell- inns through the vast audience. Judas
bound, while the sacred bread and wine arrives, accompanied by the, money-
are given by Christ to the disciples, changers, and the money which is to pay
when Judas receives the sop and rushes for the betrayal is counted out to him.
confusedly from the chamber. Perhaps The figure of the old man in his yellow
the liest feature of this part of the Pas- gown, trying each piece on one of the
sion is when
the affliction of the disciples tables of the Temple, and then placing it
the Master has given the cup. and says. in the bag at his side, is sinister and re-
" As often as ye do this, doit in remem- pulsive. Joseph and Nieodemus are
brance of mc." They show their fears reviled by the priests, and the council
that he is to be taken from them, and breaks up with cries for the blood of the
,lohn lays his head upon the Saviour's prophet who has dared to interfere with
breast, while Judas sits moodily eying the corrupt practices in the Temple.
the dishes on the table. This is most Next we are shown Adam digging to get
happily conceived. h s bread by the sweat of his brow, and
;
The betrayal follows in a series of Joab giving Amasa a kiss while he

weird pictures which arc like relievos. plunges a dagger into his heart, Adam's
Eacli one embodies an important inci- toil typifying Gethsemane, and Joab the
dent. The curtain rises to show us treachery of Judas's kiss.

J( sepli sold to the Midianites for twenty The great space of the proscenium is
'pieccsof silver, — type of the action which used with effect in a host of by-play
Judas is about to commit. This scene which adds immensely to the realism.
is prepared with great care ; the costumes For instance, just before we are shown
of the Midianites, the heads of the camels the scena in Gethsemane's Garden, we
appearing through the fo'iage of the see the betrayer and a delegation of
o;isis, the attitude of young Joseph stand- priests, escorted by a line of Roman sol-
ing stripped of his coat of many colors, diers, pass silently across the stage.
806 EUROTE IX STORM AXI) CALM.
Then the curtain rises upon the Mount and a half hour-; of close attention, is
of Olives, and the Saviour, accompanied not sorry to get into the street and to
by his weary disciples, appears. Peter, rest his brain from the sombre impres-
James, and John are to watch with the sions of the last few scenes. The thou-
Man of Sorrows, but they one by one sands of people hasten away in all direc-
fall asleep, and the Redeemer is left tions to their dinners. At table, in the
alone with his prayer. Maier's acting hotels, one is served by a Midianite ; has
heris full of strong self-control ; it is his boots blacked by one of the sons of
never sensational, but always simple and Jacob, and his coat brushed by a Roman
natural in the highest degree. The tradi- soldier; a Jewish maiden brings him a
tions of the mystery demand that blood glass of beer; a priest hires a carriage
should l>e seen flowing down the Saviour's in which to leave town at the close of
cheeks at the close of his mournful cry, the afternoon's performance; and Judas
" Take away this cup from me neverthe- ; goes to take a look at his wood-carving.
less, not as I will, but as Thou wilt." The peasantry, on the day that 1 was
The figure kneeling on the rocks, with present, were soaked with rain, and this
hands outstretched in supplication, and doubtless accounted for the fact that
with an angel hovering above it, docs during the intermission, on the plan of
not move when the clash of arms is similict shnUibus, they drank enormous
heard, and the betrayer arrives, lint quantities of beer. Most of them con-
the disciples huddle together in contented themselves with frugal meals of
sternation. Out of the darkness sud- bread and sausage, and were back in
denly spring the lights of torches and their places long before the cannon fired.
lanterns, and Judas, advancing, greets The second half of the Passion-Play is
the Saviour and kisses him. When Christ unquestionably the most impressive, al-
declares himself, the soldiers fall to the though seems to
it me that no other por-
ground, dropping their spears, and the tion of the mystery is so finely executed
priests and traders are in commotion ;but as that embracing the departure from
presently Malchus, with his comrades, Bethany and the Last Supper. But the
conies to bind Christ. Peter strikes his interest is so concentrated in the second
noted blow of defense, but is rebuked by part upon the meek, shrinking, pathetic
the Saviour, when the soldiers brutally figure of Christ, that one thinks of little
push the and march off

captive, forward, else. From the moment of the arrest, in
into the night with him. These soldiers the garden of Gethsemane, Ilerr Maier
are played with considerable skill by vil- personifies the Saviour as the sufferer
lagers who have hud long training. Their for the sins of the world ; he is as clay
dress, their weapons, and their manners, in hands of the potter his slender
the ;
have been made the subjects of careful form bends beneath the blows which it
research. They give wonderful character receives; his face is pale ; his limbs are
to their trifling rdles. weak : but he is of majestic sweetness and
With the departure of Jesus in the noble in his humility. After having seen
bonds of his captors, and the lamen- him in this character 1 renounced all
tations of Peter and John, who have idea of a private interview with him,
shrunk away from following their Lord fearing that 1 might be shocked at the
and Master, the first part of the Passion- contrast between the man's private life,
Play closes, and the spectator, after three however good it might be, and the
;
marked excellence of his assumption of personation of the Saviour from this

the Saviour's character in the Passion- point in the mystery forward to the cru-
Play. cifixion, allows himself to appear
A distinguished — the most distin- literally like clay in the hands of the
guished — American actor, who visited potter; he is the patient sufferer for the
the Passion-Play this summer, professed sins of others ; his eloquence is mute,
a certain sense of disappointment. and his humility is imposing. For the
lie was prodigal of compliments for sake of convenience I will pass over the
the marvellous picturesqueness and force Old Testament tableaux, which, in this
displayed by the peasantry in their act- second division of the Passion, are
ing and their use of costumes; but that shown before each episode in the life of
they were men of genius he was inclined the Saviour, and will review them later.
to deny. "In fact," he said with a After the scene before Annas, the cen-
smile." we had had our minds so worked tral curtain rises, and we are shown a
up by the gorgeous accounts furnished room in the house of C'aiaphas. On a
of this play that we were prepared to ln- dais the high-priest, dressed in splendid
contented with nothing less than the robes, stands, surrounded by his subor-
supernatural." He argued that it was dinates, and the bound Saviour is pushed
impossible, also, for an actor, in looking in before him. From another entrance
on at this spectacle, to take a non-pro- arrive Samuel and the live witnesses.
fessional view of and to forget that
it, The impressive presentation of the
the players in the great morality aim to episode in which the Saviour declares
be devotional rather than anything else. himself, — " Thou hast said : nevertheless
I should not like to have it said that I 1 say unto you, hereafter shall ye see
have exaggerated the merits of the the Son of man sitting on the right hand
mystery. But doubtless the imagination of power, and coming in the clouds of
plays a powerful part, when one re- heaven," was exceedingly striking.
cords his impressions of this curious Caiaphas indulged in a fine fit of rage at
mosaic wrought together on the bare what he considered blasphemy this
boards of a theatre with such loving there was a great clamor, and the assem-
care and patience. bly broke out with cries of "Death!
In afternoon the performance
the Death!" after the Saviour had been
began one o'clock, on the day when I
at ordered to appear before the Sanhedrim
witnessed it, and it was rather amusing on the morrow. The curtain fill and the
to see the discomfited peasants hasten- gloomy picture of Judas in his gown of
ing back, with their bread and cheese in startling color, appeared once more.
their hands and the water dripping from Judas was stung to his conscience's
their garments. The chorus sang, quick, and his soliloquy was given with
Begonnen ist der Kumpf der Schmer- a real pathos. Shortly afterward came
zen, and the piteous story was brought a scene which has provoked no little
promptly before us. First Christ was criticism in the orthodox world, because
haled before Annas, and here the of its intense realism. It represents
rude realism of the actors was in some Christ sitting, bound and blindfolded,
small cases repulsive. This scene, like on a stool in an anteroom of the Sanhe-
those which immediately followed it, was drim. The brutal soldiers are tor-
acted with great dignity. Maier, in his mentiusr him. I confess that it seemed
to in;- needlessly prolonged and painful. ever laughs at the agony of Judas. It
Th' soldiers beat their captive, sang seems red and fully justifies the encomi-
rude songs in his cars, tipped him over, ums lavished upon it by celebrities in the
and said, ••Nov if thou art a King, get histrionic world. When the curtain i iscs
upon thy tin-one again," and thrust a again we are in the Sanhedrim. The
crown of thorns upon his tortured richly-robed priests are in their places,
brows. I could hear the deep breathing exulting in the savage decision which
of tli 3 peasants ia the seat; below me they have lately made, when Judas, hag-
while this was in progress. The ladies gard and ferocious, rushes in, and in
seated near mo turned away their faces passionate reproach curses the assembly
and would not look. for the sad work to which it has tempted
.lust before this occurs the scene in him. The high-priests sneeriugly bid
which l'eter li 'trays his Master, accord- him cease his clamor. lie seizes the
ing to V,)',: prophecy. It is quaintly con- money-bag at his girdle, hurls it down
ceived and executed. We are shown a at the foot of the blood-stained tribunal,
large hall, with a bevy of querulous maids and rushes out of the hall, leaving the
lighting a fire, each one of them abusing priests quaking upon their seats with fear
the Saviour heartily. Peter and John and indignation. There is a brief interval
come i:i and try t warm themselves with-
> in the tragedy of Judas, in which we are
out exciting observation. While l'eter is shown a delegation of priests before the
rubbing his hands before the flames one house of Pilate. A Roman servant steps
of the women points him out and de- out and eyes them scornfully. They tell
nounces him. lie protests, and imme- him that they cannot enter his master's
diately the cheerful notes of chanticleer house, because it is the residence of an
are heard behind the scenes. As this is unclean heathen, but that they can speak
repeated for the third time, there is the with him if he will appear in his balcony.
clash of arms, the soldiers who have been This elicits from the servant the well
lounging off duty spring to their feet, and known reproof about straining at a gnat
the Saviour enters, guarded by a dozen and swallowing a camel, and the delega-
men. " He is sentenced to death." says tion passes on.
Selpha, very simplyand Peter, shrinking ; The curtain rises on the suicide of
away from the mild and sorrowful gaze Judas. We are shown a wild, weird spot,
of the man-God, bursts into tears, covers in the centre of which is a small mound
his face with his hands and departs. with a tree growing upon it. I notice
This is stirring ami dramatic, anil is so that Mr. Jackson, in his line work on the
well pi lyed by the actors that for a Passion-Play, alludes to a Satan which in
moment it assumes all the proportions of the mysteries of the Middle Ages used to
reality. At the close of this part of the beckon to Judas from the branches of
play we arc shown Peter pouring out his this tree. Happily all such mummery as
soul in a violent torrent of self-reproach. this was long ago abandoned, and all
Words are sadly incompetent for the poor Judas sees is the image of his de-
description of the act in which Judas, spair beckoning him on to death. The
in rage and despair at his own folly, takes acting which precedes the final despairing
bis life. A certain class of spectators suicide is remarkably good. Judas does
profess here and there to discern laugh- not rant nor mouth, but lie delivers the
able places in the Passion-Play, but no one beautiful and affecting lines which Pastor
Daisenbcrger lias put into bis mouth, with he ridicules the Saviour still more, and
great dignity and pathos, and now and orders the garment of ridicule to lie
then a certain grim sorrow, which cuts to placed upon him, and a. sceptre in bis
the heart. Judas then rushes to the tree, hand. It is impossible to describe the
and is about to hang himself as the rude realism with which tins scene is
curtain falls. As I have remarked i:i the given. Herod dispatches the business
previous chapter hs is the Judas of the speedily when he discovers that there is
Catholic world,— a Judas who but an is no amusement to be bad, and sends the
unfortunate instrument the hands of a in company back to Pilate. Once more the
supernatural power, — a Judas for whom procession arrives under the Roman
we feel decided pity aslhe victim of fate. governor's balcony, and clamors for
The characters of Pilate ami Herod in blood; then, in obedience to Pilate's
the Passion-flay are assumed with much command, follows the scourging-scene,
skill. Pilate appears upon his balcony, which such an exhibition as would not,
is
accompanied by his guard, and listens to I suspect, be allowed in America. All

the noisy accusations of the high-priests the rough force of the medi;cval drama
and Jews who bring Christ before him. — the bold, courageous mediaeval drama,
He treats them all with mild contempt, which told the truth and shamed the
as members of a conquered race, but devil — is is scourged until
here. Christ
shows an earnest desire to do justice. itseems as if the human frame can bear
In this scene the smallest details are no more, and his body falls against the
lovingly elaborated until the patience of tormentors.
the audience is perhaps a trifle tired. The succeeding scenes are painful in
A messenger enters and tells Pilate of the highest degree. Old Testa- If the
his wife's dream. The just Roman ment tableaux were cut out, and the
governor is struck by the vision which performance were thus shortened, the
his wife has had, and he cries out, " Is interest in these last dramatic pictures
this man from Galilee?" — " Yes,*' cries woul 1 doubtless be intensified. The fact
the rabble, "he is simply a Galilean; is that the spectators become so tired as
he is from Nazareth, in the territory of hardly to be able to appreciate the
King Herod." —
"Then take him to bis beauty and sublimity of the mystery.
own king Herod hath come to Jerusa-
; There is one grand musical effect, when
lem to celebrate the feast let this man ; the chorus, on the proscenium, is telling
be taken before him " and Pilate retires; the story, and as a sombre refrain we hear
from the balcony, leaving the angry in the distance the cries of the populace
priests and the mob to follow the bound for the release of P>ar:ibbas ami the
and helpless Saviour to Herod's palace. murder of the Saviour. A striking
The scene before the monarch is very picture is formed when Pilate places
impressive. It is a room in the central Christ and Barabbas side by side ou his
stage, with Herod on a golden throne, balcony, and asks them which they will
dressed in velvet garnished with silver have. Barabbas, and the two thieves
and white. When Christ is brought who are brought ou in prison garb, with
before him, Herod rallies him, taunts ropes on their bauds and feet, are terri-
him, says, • If you are a prophet, or a fying figures.
god, do a miracle." When he sees that When Pilate has washed his hands
nothing can be made of this treatment, and the judgment of death by crucifixion
between the two thieves has been pro- may really lie called adequate. The
nounced upon Christ, the spectators sound of hammers heard, and, as the
i-i
betray, by uneasy movements in their chorus retires, we are shown the hill of
seats, and by many expressions, some- Golgotha. The two thieves, tied to their
thing very like a disinclination to wit- crosses, form a most lugubrious spectacle.
ness the coming spectacle. A certain But all attention is concentrated on the
reverence s seras tothem look with
bid figure of the Saviour on the central
fear as well as sorrow upon the awful cross. It is impossible to detect from
tragedy of the crucifixion. Peasant any place among the spectators the
women sometimes faint when they see manner in which Ilerr Maier is sus-
the procession of (he soldiers conducting pended. He seems actually nailed to
the Saviour to the place of execution. the fatal tree, and the sight is so sad
I am bound to say that these final pict- that one involuntarily turns his eves
ures did not impress me so much as the away. Of course the expedients adopted
earlier ones did. But there has randy are very simple, and I do not feel called
been on any stage a more perfect piece upon to describe them. In front of the
of "setting" than that given by the place of execution the men who have just
Ober-Ammergauers in the "bearing of finished the crucifixion are playing at
the Cross lo Golgotha." The soldiers, dice for the garments of the victims; on
the executioners, the centurion, the the right stand the priests, reviling him
sordid figures of the two thieves drag- whom they believe to lie a false prophet;
ging crosses, and
their Ilerr Maier's and at the back of the cross stands Mary
slightform weighed down by the heavy with her friends, Mary Magdalen,
burden until he falls, as the Saviour fell ;
Joseph of Arimathea, and Nicodenms
the howling mob, the group of sorrow- and John. The whole story as given in
ing women, and Mary flu.' mother of the gospel is enacted. Nothing could
Christ frantic in her grief, the priests, — be finer than the noble attitude of Ilerr
all surrounded by a group of three or Maier in the last moments on the cross
four hundred people, make a most — when he turns his eyesupon his mother
striking picture. I think this painful ami and his beloved disciple, and says,
touching portion of the play covers half "Woman, behold thy son!" —
'•Son,
an hour. Nothing is omitted, from the behold thy mother!" or when, at the
conduct of the good centurion to the last great instant he cries Ea ist
final resolve of Mary to follow to the voUtracht! —-It is finished! — and his
very foot of the cross. When the pro- head falls to one side.
cession passes on around the corner The storm and the rending of the veil
and the last robe is lost to sight, there of the Temple in twain are but clumsily
is an immense sigh of relief. This rendered, but the imagination of the
revivification of sacred history is won- spectators has been already so worked
derfully exciting and saddening. upon that everything seems to them re-
The chorus appears in mourning gar- markable. The executioners proceed in
ments, just before the scene of the cruci- tin' coolest and most brutal manner to
fixion is disclosed by the raising of the kill the thieves by breaking their limbs
curtain of the central stage. The music and ribs with clubs, after which the cen-
at this point is particularly effective. I turion pierces the side of the Saviour
think it is the only occasion in which it with a spear, and a jet of blood springs
out. Then the thieves are taken down, tors. For instance, just before the res-
after which executioners, soldiers, and urrection,we are shown " Jonas cast on
the alarmed and superstitious priest- dry land by the whale," a veritable —
hood retire, and the followers of the New England primer conception of this
Saviour are left alone with the crucified curious event; and this is followed by
body- The descent from the cross is "the Israelites crossing the Red Sea in
copied from the noted painting by safety." The bearing of the cross to
Rubens, and forms a beautiful group. Golgotha is prefigured by " Young [saac
"
The descent, the mourning, the anoint- carrying the altar-wood up Alt. Moriah ;
ment, the placing of the body in the and the healing and atoning virtues of the
sepulchre, are performed with a tender- cross are symbolized by the magical effects
ness, solemnity, and grace, beyond all which Moses produced when he raise the 1
praise. AVhile this was in progress I brazen serpent on a cross i:i tli wilder- •
really felt that I was witnessing a ness. In this tableau three hundred
religious ceremony. persons take part. Avery noble history
The resurrection and the ascension are picture, which I ought to have mentioned
but inadequately represented. would It in its proper place, is " Joseph made
be far better for the Ober-Ammergauers Ruler over Egypt." In this there are
to rest their efforts with the close of evidences that the Ober-Amrnergauers
the crucifixion scene, but one is always must have spent their money without
compelled to bear in mind that they are stint in costumes, and the thousand and
aiming at the recital of the whole story one properties necessary for such a re-
— in the fullest if not always the most production, a festival in the times of the
dramatic manner. The final chorus :
— Pharaohs.
There were various rumors at the time
"BringtLob und Preis dem Hachsten dar,
that the celebrated mystery will never be
Dem Lamme das getodtet war,
Halleluja! Halkduja! " performed again. Those who are famil-
iar with the history of the vow mad by •
produces an exquisite effect. As the the Ober-Ammergauers to perform it
last members of the chorus disappear indefinitely every ten years will not
from the stage at the close of the " As- believe them likely to change their minds.
cension," the Passion-Play closes. It is a beautiful, touching, holy, and
The tableaux from the Old Testament noble dramatic sketch of the most won-
in the second portion of this curious derful life and death on record, and he
mystery are in many respects finer than who can go away from it without re-
those in the first section, but they do not ceiviug some beneficial lessons must
appeal to the sympathies of the specta- have a very hard heart indeed.
CHAPTER NINETY-TWO.
Vienna, where the East meets Hie West. — The Emperor of Austria. — His Simple Life. — The Slavs and
Hungarians. —
Berlin ami Bismarck. — The German Emperor. — Startling Progress of German
ajrcil
Industry. — The
Thrones of (he North. — Nihilism and Socialism. — Colonial Schemes. — Possible
Absorption of the Small Countries ofEuropc.
ONObefore the now and astonish- " And," said the gentleman, with a
-L-* ing development of the struggling smile. •'! will transfer the whole lot to
nations in south-eastern Europe, — you if you will pay into my hands lifty
development which has been but briefly gulden."
described in these pages, —
Vienna was While the financial craze lasted in
beginning ti> feel a new commercial im- southern Germany there was the usual
pulse, and to profit by the wealth poured growth of buildings, and even the usu-
into her coffers by speculators, mer- ally sedate and cautious government
chants from the East and West, and by caught the infection, and began a series
the hundreds of luxury-loving aristocrats of lofty piles, parliament houses and
from all the lands bordering on the municipal structures, which had to re-
Orient. Old Vienna, picturesque and main unfinished with scaffoldings about
rather dirty, was gradually environed by them for many a long year after the
a magnificent " ring " of stately palaces, corner-stones were laid.
not specially remarkable for refined taste, The famous King, or circular boulevard
but of noble proportions, and. taken col- extending around the whole of old Vienna
lectively, more imposing than anything is one of the gayest, most, picturesque,
else in ( rermany. and most charming promenades in Eu-
Vienna is now a town containing more rope. InVienna is distinctly gay.

fact
than one million and one hundred thou- There the primness and ceremonial stiff-
sand inhabitants within its fortifications, ness of western Europe begin to fade
and it would seem as at least one-fifth
it' into the harmonious irregularity of the
of these inhabitants were struggling in Orient. As in Berlin everything seems
the money-market for sudden riches. The to be constructed with a view to bring-
story of the Krach, as it was so appro- ing out the angles, so. in Vienna, all the
priately called, — the great financial crash corners are rounded off. Colors are
which came, a few years ago, to warn the bright, and often dazzling; music is
incautious Viennese that all was not voluptuous wines and sweets, fruits
;
gold tint glittered, and reduced, in the and ices, are displayed in tempting
twinkling of tin eye, thousands of people, profusion. Out-of-door life abounds,
who had fancied themselves millionaires, and the people are merry and free in
to absolut •
beggary, — is appalling. I their manners. They have an abun-
was once shown, while visiting the dant humor. The town is tilled with
mansion of a well-known Vienna gentle- fine horses, finely dressed men, beauti-
man, a heap of slocks which originally ful women, with soldiers in every con-
represented 400, 000 Austrian gulden. ceivable tint of uniform. The East and
the West here touch hands, hut there the influence of her disasters and the
is a leaning towards the Orient. Aus- changes rendered necessary by them,
tria does not bear her name in vain. has become liberal and progressive is ;
;
She is the "Empire of the East " or, anxious for education, for elevation of
rather, she: is determined so to be, de- the masses, instead of that military
and the thousand
spite Russian intrigue glory which was so completely over-
obstacles which have weighed upon her shadowed on the field of Sadowa, and
progress to he sea and towards Con-
l which is such a vanity and vexation of
stantinople. The composite character spirit even alter it is obtained.
of the population of the empire-king- The Emperor of Austiia is one of
dom is felt and seen everywhere. The those wise men who has learned by ex-
German language, which is the official perience; who knows that politics is the
one in Austria, and which rules supremo science of expedients, and who has
at the court theatres and at the opera, moulded himself to the times Once a
is not so often heard in the street as violent opponent of Hungarian expan-
the jolly' but highly erratic Viennese sion, ho has come to be King of Hungary
dialect, against which the northern as well as Emperor of Austiia; has
German may butt his bead without flourished his sword to the four corners of
comprehending it. The soul hem Slav the earth, and sworn to defend Hungary
contributes hiu plaintive and imagina- and its people from invasion coming from
tive temperament to the composition of any quarter, and has submitted for years
the Vienna populace. with exemplary patience to the predomi-
The north Germans say that Vienna is nance in the empire-kingdom's ministerial
not a German city and they say this as
; councils of Hungarian statesmen, who, on
if it were a reproach. Although the the whole, have done fairly well for both
Catholic church is the state religion, countries. lie has the tenacity ami the
and is powerful, and prominent in all unfaltering patience of the Hapsburgs;
public places, maintaining the splendid and he has, too, their noble fortune,
out-of-door processions and ceremonials which he uses with taste and with gener-
which have been banished from most of osity. One of the richest men in Europe,
the northern capitals, there are Greek he fosters literature, music, and art.
and Armenian Catholics, Protestants, His private library is that of a man of
Byzantine Greeks and Jews, in plenty letters. lie is a careful and conscien-
to maintain their cemeteries, monasteries, tious administrator, — up in the morning
nunneries, and churches in Vienna. at five o'clock, winter and summer, ready
In the superb cathedral of St. Stephen, after prayers for his simple breakfast of
which springs with airy grace from its bread and coffee, and then at work at
ancient site in the very centre of the old his desk at eleven, with no companion
city, the Catholic ritual is seen in splen- save his secretary and one of the long
dor such as is scarcely to be found else- cigars, called Virginias, of which the
where outside of Spain. Close by one Viennese are so fond. Towards noon he
may peep into a Jewish synagogue. The has pot-luck and a glass of beta-, like
old feeling of intolerance, the old pas- the simplest of his subjects ; then works
sion for illiberalism which once charac- on (unless some ceremony or state
terized Austrian governments, appears affair calls him from the palace) in his
to have melted away. Austria, under private office until dinner-time, when he
;
meets his family and spends an hour or and never appears to such advantage as
two with them. inuniform. He is an intrepid hunter
His private office is between his fond of the dangerous sports in the
dressing-room and the Council hall, in Austrian Alps, where chasing the cha-
which the ministers meet. Over his mois is by no means a pastime for in-
plain office-table hang the portraits of experienced sportsmen. In the Hunga-
his children, and two line pictures of the rian mountains, as at Schcenbrunn or at
Empress painted by Winterhalter. lie Ischl, he may often be seen clad in a
is a good listener, is never imperative, simple frock, and, with a huge stick in
his hand, walking through the fields of

s e farm and chatting with the farmers.
When he visits Budapest the old Hun-
garian city brings out its many splendors
to lay them at his feel ; and lie has the
singular advantage of being a popular
monarch in two countries, radically dif-
ferent from each other.

In public, at the opera, at state balls
or diplomatic receptions, he has the
languid and elaborate manners
grace
of the aristocracy of which he is the
head. Austria is one of the few Eu-
ropean countries which can still show a
veritable aristocracy, whose privileges
have not been cut down, and who have
not learned to yield a little in pres-
ence of the invading democracy. The
manners of the middle and lower classes
show that there is little tendency as yet
to assail the aristocrat in his position.
EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA Vienna has a season like London,
when everything is doubled or tripled in
hates phrases ami long speeches, is price; when every desirable apartment
and simple in his address,
unaffected in the great hotels and mansions, the
and now and then goes down among numerous palaces and villas, is taken up
the people, conversing freely with by country gentlemen, with interminable
them. The Catholic church claims his suites of servants. Then the handsome
humblest devotion. Once every year he capital is wild with excitement; the
is seen on foot and bareheaded, behind streets are thronged with rapidly rolling
the archbishop,walking through the carriages ; the operas and theatres are
streets; and once each year, also, the packed ; the parks are brilliant with
Emperor and Empress attend in a room equestrians; museums and the fashion-
in the palace upon a delegation of the able restaurants are and servants filled,
poor, whose feet they wash in token of are content only with which gratuities
humility. The Emperor, although unfor- would seem extravagant and princely
tunate as a soldier, is fond of the army, elsewhere.
The Vienna grand opera is incom- From Vienna and Budapest one or
parably the best in Europe. In point two daily express trains run with deco-
of scenic completeness it is superior to rous gravity. There is not much social
that of Paris, while the monument in intercourse between the two capitals.
which the opera is shrined is not so Pest is a superb new quarter, as new as
imposing as the Parisian one. All Chicago, and built up, like Chicago, out
through the pleasant weather the Vien- of profits made on grain. The Danube
nese adopt every slightest pretext for here is large and majestic, and the con-
assembling in the beautiful halls with trast of rocky old ( Men on the right bank
which the city is amply supplied, to with new and dazzling Pest on the left
listen to the bewitching music of the bank of the stream is most striking.
Strauss brethren, who are the spoiled From Vienna to Pest the beautiful Aus-
children of Austria, and wlio sum up trian river is literally the blue Danube, —
in their mad Viennese
waltzes the the Danube of the Strauss waltzes and
spirit, its deep passion of the South and the popular ballads, —
a lovelier stream
mysterious languor of the Orient, its than the Rhine, and flowing past almost
dash of gypsy vagabondage, — all blended as many noble ruins as its northern
together in proportions which, according sister can boast. With this great high-
to the verdict of the whole civilized way to the Orient what wonder is it
world, are positively enchanting. that Austria has irresistible tendencies
The Viennese are the most hospita- towards Constantinople anil the East!
ble of peoples, and a more splendid The Hungarians, who now number
succession of flte.s than that given dur- nearly fifteen millions, are such stern
ing the sessions of the International enemies of the Russians that they are
Literary Congress, in IMS I, has rarely glad to see Austria assuming prominence
been seen. These festivals were held as a great Slavic empire, although they
both in public halls and in private man- fear that they may themselves one day
sions. The Mayor and municipality be surrounded and swamped when the
entertained in the famous Blumen Saal, great unification of the Slavs takes
and hundreds of ladies and gentlemen place.
there attended a kind of informal feast, Between these capitals of the southern
in which the lusty wines from the vine- empire-kingdom and that of the German
yards about Vienna played a prominent empire, the city of the Hohenzollerns,
part. in its sandy plain on either side of the
In midsummer few more there are Spree, there is the widest contrast of all
charming sights on its than Vienna, and especially in the men who hold
sorts,
plain opposite the Blue Danube, with the helm of state in either. Nowa-
the abrupt height of the Kahlenberg days in Europe when any one thinks
near by. All around are vineyards and of Berlin he also thinks of Bismarck.
gardens pretty valleys leading up to
; The great Chancellor has dwarfed every-
rugged mountains rich expanses of ; thing else in Germany his colossal statue
;
waving green ancient villages, mon-

; overtops the Emperor, the talented and
asteries, and churches. It is but a short cultivated Crown Prince, all the shining
distance to Presburg, once the pretty lights of the military party, and of course
capital of Hungary, now a sleepy old all the literary and artistic celebrities.
city, literally embowered in vines. In fact, so far as the rest of Europe is
"
816 EUROPE IX STOEM AND CALM.
i oncerned, Germany U a kind of luminous because it is felt that he is a kind of

mist, out of which arises the towering " stop-gap " ;
that he stands in the
figure of the great unifier anil wire- breach to prevent hostile collision be-
puller. tween (he great northern powers which

Prince Bismarck never fails to place have assumed such prominence in the
himself in the second rank when he is last three decades ; in other words, that,
spoken of in connection with German so long as he lives, Russia will not fight
polities, Imt he by no means believes Germany.
When the Emperor William disap-
pears possibly the attitude of Russia to
Germany may change. The thrones of
the two countries will lie occupied by
men of undisputed will-power, wide-
reaching ambition, and considerable hos-
i m tility
ten years
to each other's aims.
it has been sufficient, whenever
For the last
there was a disturbance of Russian opin-

ion against Germany, for the two Em-
perors to give fresh proofs of their mutual
good-will in order to allay all excite-
ment.
Alexander has gone now, beckoned
away by the bony hand of that spectre,
which, as M. Thiers so truly said, " has
leftFrance and gone promenading in the
North " But Alexander's son, anti-
German as he is in feeling, will not he
likely to move hand against Germany
his
while the venerable Emperor William
EMPEROR WILLIAM OF GERMANY. lives.
Berlin and Bismarck, Bismarck and

that he occupies such rank. He is Berlin; — these words have been heard
proud of being called the ' King's man ;
almost constantly in Europe .since 1.S7*.
but it would lie more jus! to call him With the Berlin Congress came the
the man who supports the King, or the definite recognition of the fact that
Emperor. Europe must go and
to Berlin for leave
The aged German sovereign is a fine license to carry out and from its plans,
figure-head, the beau ideal of a veteran the Congress which revised the Treaty
soldier and of a finished gentleman, — of San Stefano to the conference which
one of the hist of the monarchs who carved out the Congo State, in this
feel that they rule by incontrovertible present year, German predominance and
right, and that it' any concession be prestige have grown and strengthened
made to popular sovereignty it is out of until they are becoming to certain high-
generosity, rendered e:isy by the security spirited nations somewhat irksome and
of their own positions. The Emperor exasperating. The efforts of Great
has his importance in these later years, Britain to ignore the leading rule of
Germany are well known. Thus far technical ; with the sinews of men
they have been without practical result; trained by the best and most intelligent,
net even so distinguished a Liberal as physical exercises in and on; of the
Mr. Gladstone finding it easy to tilt army, — Germany has body of workmena
against the Bismarckian windmill with- surpassed in no country, and equalled in

out breaking a few lances and getting few. These workmen can and do live
severely bruised. on small wages they are scattered about
;
The German position in Europe is in in diminutive communities, where housing
many respects most singular a nation ; and food are cheap and easily obtainable,
which has carved out its unity at the and they pull together in the industrial
point of (lie sword finds itself at the war against the rest of the world, as
height of power, possessing without they did in the military struggle for
question the finest military organization supremacy for which they had been
in the world, equally equipped for offense preparing through fifty years of silent
and defense, yet earnestly striving to study.
maintain peace, and by all reasonable The indisputable triumphs of northern
means to keep its own armies out of and middle Germany in industry and in
action. While surrounding nations, and the political world could not have been
most of the nations of the world,
in fact achieved without the masterly leadership
have been looking upon Germany for of Prince Bismarck ; and the nation,
the last eighteen years in constant ex- appreciating this, associates his name
pectation of her downfall, because of the with every national move. His powers
drain upon her resources caused by the are of course limited ; but he is unwilling
maintenance of her arm}', Germany has to confess this, and he tries to invent
managed to develop her industry and remedies for everything, even for the
commerce in a remarkable degree, and crying curse of Socialism, which is eat-
to-day competes with France and Eng- ing out the heart of many great German
land in those great foreign markets communities, and preparing for a revolu-
which the Briton and the Gaul once tion, which may be put off, but cannot
proudly claimed as exclusively their be permanently averted. He bends the
own. A careful observer is forced to currents of trade towards Germany, or
the conclusion that Germany maintains distributes them through His baud it.
its armyfor the purpose of overawing is seen in the boring of the St. Gothard
Europe, and getting its own way in Tunnel, and the opening of new com-
everything by a display of the force mercial currents towards Genoa and the
which can compel assent if persuasion Southern Seas, just as it is seen in the
fails. creation of syndicates in Hamburg for
The French find to their cost that the monopolizing the African trade in the
industrial triumph of Germany is greater very teeth of England and France, both
than her military triumph. The Ger- of which countries feel that they must
mans, who so long passed for being slow have Africa at all hazards.
and unambitious, have proved the The sudden arrival of Germany upon
quickest and keenest traders in Europe. the field of colonial enterprise, two or
With workmen carefully and symmetri- three years ago, created an almost ludi-
cally educated; with a country filled crous consternation in European circles.
with the best of schools, general and France, which had been told by the
dying l.ittre that it must colonize if it silently building a vast fleet, having got
wished for military prestige anywhere, it into shape for service, steps forth
as she could no longer hope for it in upon the colonial field, and announces
Europe, lias expanded her dominion in her decision to take a portion of Africa.
North Africa, and even knocked at the Itwould be difficult to imagine a more
doors of the celestial empire. England, high-handed proceeding than that of the
in her jealousy of France has narrowly German government in its acquisition of
escaped coming to blows with her neigh- African territory; yet other European
countries can do nothing to prevent it,
and are compelled to >it around the

diplomatic table in Berlin to make sun'
that they can keep their own colonies.
The northern powers. Russia and Ger-
many, present the Spectacle of great
nations, not spontaneously acting in
obedience to some inherited, policy of
expansion or unification, but driven or
moulded into certain courses by the will
of strong men. I suppose these nations
may say that their collective will has
been summed up in certain individuals.
In both countries there is protest, con-
stant and strong, against the one-man
power and the injustice and hardship
which it necessarily inflicts on numerous
classes. Socialism in Germany is but a
mask for the advanced, untaught,
and
dangerous republicanism which Europe
EMPEROl iF RUSSIA. must have, before it can have an en-
lightened and self-controlling democracy.
bor and friend, and the English press Nihilism in Russia, with its men grovel-
has been full of allusions to the old days ling in the earth to lay mines of pow-
when France and England were con- der, or slinking through corridors with
stantly jostling each other in the field daggers in their hands, or holding meet-
of colonial conquest. Italy and Spain, ings in remote and gloomy forests, is
narrow bounds, and

fretting within their another and a ruder phase of the repub-
anxious for glory beyond seas, have lican movement. The most terrible form
cast, covetous eyes upon the African of nihilism, manifested in the doctrineof
lands near them, Russia has pushed the destruetionists. who wish to do away
her standards dangerously near the gates with society without substituting any-
of India, hurrying on across the deserts thing in its place, who seem to have de-
in Central Asia to the gardens just voted their existence to the work of mere
beyond them. Austria has used up her tearing down, is the result of the terrible
sui'iilus activity in Arctic expeditions, tor repression in Russia. Emperor William
lack of
something better. Meantime of Germany escaped the assassin's hand,
Germany, which lias been quietly and although he was struck at with the same
unrelenting persistence ami malevolence permanent that it would be shocked to
that finally laid the Emperor Alexander its centre if he were to lie carried off in
of Russia in his grave. Bismarck, all one of his many illnesses. In recent
powerful as he seems, realizes that he years he has shown symptoms of great
treads on a volcano, and cannot affirm anil general fatigue, manifest principally
that an eruption overwhelm may not in a petulance quite astonishing in one
him just as he seems about to " crown of his robust intellect, against any who
the edifice " at the end of his illustrious dare to cross even his least important
career. plans. In his long tight with the Ultra-
Should Bismarck live to lie a very old montanes he was no more imperious than
man many strange things, now only he is on the simple matter of some
whispered about in Europe, might measure of home taxation. He is a
become actualities. Those persons who driver who keeps his horses well in hand,
talk with bated breath of the absorption ready to flourish the whip whenever there
of Holland and Switzerland into the is any manifestation of independence on
German Empire as an impossibility the part of the steeds. A Frenchman
might was quite within the
find that it has called him " the Mikado of Ger-
scope of Bismarck's genius. Having many." This rather indefinite definition
demonstrated his power to draw the admirably hits the general French opinion
centre of control to Berlin, ami to main- of the great man. It is certain that
tain itwhy might he not boldly

there, Bismarck has maintained kis dignity
change the map of Europe a little more? better than Thiers, better than Guizot,
Heaven knows it has been changed fre- better than Beaconsfield, in carrying
quently enough in the last half genera- through the gigantic schemes in which
tion ! Besides, he is a master of the he has been engaged. He has, however,
policy of •' give and take." As in the had a more docile people to handle than
Congo '(inference lie brought the French,
(
the French or the English, who rebel
his most implacable enemies, to cooperate more readily against the display of
with him simply because they knew they authority than the Germans, with their
would profit materially by so doing; so memories of the great Frederick, can for
if he chose to attack the autonomy of a long time hope to do.
the brave little countries which have a At Friederichsruhe or at Varzin, in
Germanic tinge, he might find plenty of his cabinet or in the parliament in Berlin,
bribes with which to stop the mouths of he is the unyielding master, who brings
the objectors. the dart of Jove into play the moment
The industrial progress of Germany is that he finds persuasion not strong
so powerful that it may break down all enough. An American is reluctantly
barriers which would keep it from a forced to the conclusion that Europe is,
wide outlet upon the Northern sea, and on the whole, fond of being bullied, and
which might claim complete control of will fall at the feet of him who can bully
the great highways that, burrowing with the roundest voice and the bisgesl
under the Alps, lead out to the seas fist. In very recent days Prince Bis-
which wash the shores of the Italian marck by his personal influence on
has,
peninsula. general European affairs, forced the
Europe has become so accustomed to German nation more prominently into
regard Prince Bismarck as magnificently view than ever before. Not satisfied
with carving a German colonial empire mission for the definite reopening of the
in Africa, out of the territories which he " Eastern Question " can be obtained ;
took bodily from under the grip of France and the country which, twenty years
and England, he now assumes to be the ago, would scarcely have been considered
arbiter of Egyptian affairs,and will not in the arrangement of matters in the
give England peace until she consents to East, is now the one which must be lirst
bring Egypt, as everything else has been consulted by those who were wont to
brought, on to the green cloth at Berlin. look upon her as a second or third class
It is from the North alone that per- power.
CHAPTER NINETY-THREE.
The Storm of Europe diverted into Africa. —
How Great Britain was drawn into Egyptian Affairs.—
The Revolt of Arabi. — Rise of El Mahdi. — Gordon to the Rescue. — The Long Siege of Khar-
toum.— Fall of the Soudanese Stronghold and Reported Death of Gordon. — The Recall of
Wolseley.
THE storm of Europe

fined within its
is not
narrow boundaries,
all con- but through Egyptian
the Suez Canal, the gateway
territory passes
to the great
but readies over the world, and dis- Indian empire, built by the French Do
charges its lightnings, sweeps with its Lesseps, but now chiefly owned by Great
terrible winds, and devastates with its Britain. It is neutral in case of war for
floods and fires. Even now two Euro- the world'scommerce, but the fortunes
pean powers, that are also Asiatic powers, of war do not always respect the most
are confronting each other in Afghanis- guarded of agreements. The necessity
tan anil who dare say that war
; in of keeping at the head of affairs in
Europe may not result from this dispute Egypt a government that could be man-
of Russia and Great Britain? — the latter aged so as to secure the moneyed inter-
barring now, as so often before, the way ests of Europe was what provoked the
of the Muscovite empire to the sea. one war which Mr. Gladstone's late gov-
shutting up the path to the Persian Gulf, ernment originated, for it inherited the
as it has forbidden the Straits of the other wars it has taken part in from
Bosphorus and the prize of Constanti- Lord Beaconsfield's "Jingo" policy. So
nople In Africa, as we shall see later, when, in September, 1881, Arabi Bey, a
the powers of Europe meet peacefully colonel in the Egyptian army, and others
now, —
thanks to Stanley and King Leo- of his rank', headed an insurrection to
pold, and, above all, to Bismarck, upon — demand a new ministry; and when, dis-
the Congo ; but occasion of strife there satisfied with the new ministry when it
is yet remote.Elsewhere in Africa also was given, and still more dissatisfied
the powers meet and conflict, at the when foreign intervention came, the
mouth of the Nile and at ancient Cairo, colonels drew the army into active rebel-
where the all-potent interests of trade lion there was nothing for Great Britain
;
and money have compelled the govern- to do but put down the patriots, as they
ments of France, England, Germany, called themselves. Thus started the
and Italy, to concern themselves in the trouble of the English in Egypt. Arabi
government of Egypt, and consequently was an Egyptian, and, the first of Egyp-
in the religion of Islam. The business tian blood who had held so high a rank
interests of all are identical, but no other among the Turks, made much out of his
power has as much at stake in Egypt as profession of patriot. He was an ignorant
Great Britain, for not only is it of man, — he could not read Arabic even;
moment to her that the government but he knew his country had been abused
should be stable, solvent, and willing to long enough by itsTurkish rulers, who
pay the interest on its immense debts, had plundered it by the Sultan's imposts
S-.'L' EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM.
and for their own extravagances, and Red Sea, though it is a body so inti-
had brought it into debt on every hand, mately connected with Egypt that it may
grinding the luckless fellaheen to the almost be said to be Egyptian." Not
earth under hopeless oppression. The only was he ignorant, but we fear he
man was incompetent to his rdle of must be confessed a coward his sole ;
savior, and his success would have been virtue was his blind feeling that every-
ruinous to his country, but there was thing was wrong, the fellaheen abused,
never any chance of his succeeding. At and the foreign officers, who really
first there was talk of the Sultan, the owned the country, much too arrogant;
Khedive's suzerain, taking possessi f but this, and the small education he had
the land in force; hut England would in military affairs, did not suffice for the
not have allowed that: it would have occasion. Alexandria was bombarded
made matters worse instead of better. duly 11, 1882Sir Garnet Wolseley, who
;
There was also talk of joint occupation had won a reputation in the Ashantee
by England and France, hut finally the war, arrived to take command of the
policing of Egypt, the protecting of its British troops in the Khedive's service,
helpless nominal ruler, the Khedive, and August 15, and Arabi and his army of
the putting down of the rebellion of the sixtv thousand Egyptians were utterly
colonels, was committed to England routed at Tel-el-Kebir on September 13,
alone; ami how she accomplished those only three days over a year since the
tasks we need not recall in detail. day when he, at the head of four thou-
As before said. Arabi was ignorant; sand men, had confronted the Khedive
the present Khedive recently related an with a demand for the resignation of the
amusing instance of the depth of his ministry and the formation of a new
ignorance. "1 shall never forget," he one, the assembly of the Notables, and
said, "one incident that occurred while a constitution. Wolseley was made a
he was secretary of war. It was at the baron for Tel-el-Kebir, and Arabi went
time of the excitement about the Italians to prison, was afterward tried for treason,
taking Asab on the Red Sea. It was at and exiled to Ceylon, where he now
a meeting of the council where I pre- lives, at the cost of the Egyptian govern-
sided. Arabi said, Italy must not be

'
ment, in a comfortable house :it ( 'olomho.
allowed to do this. We will prevent it lie is trying to learn English, and is
by destroying the Suez Canal so that supposed to be ambitious of literary
they cannot get to the Red Sea.' I said, fame in a history of his times, while
'
What do you mean? You will destroy without question he is getting up a, col-
the Suez Canal ? Why, the Suez Canal is lection of autographs of his visitors, who
an international highway, and you would all sign their names in his big book.
not lie permitted to do it. Besides, if While the English were finishing this
you did, you would not prevent the job, another much more troublesome one
Italians sending their ships around by was preparing for them in Upper Egypt.
the Cape of Good Hope and entering the In July, 1881, five months after the
Red Sea from the south.' — What,' said ' military riot in which Arabi lirst came
Arabi, is there another way of getting
' into notoriety, and when discontent was
to the Red Sea than by way of the canal?' growing every day, came the news of
The fact was that he had not the slightest the appearance of a prophet in the Sou-
idea of the shape or raison d'etre of the dan, who asserted that he was tin' Mahdi,
EVROrE IN STORM AND CALM 823
the great savior and reorganizer of impostor, and the cherif of Mecca, the
Islam. This was an event ominous of head of the sacred tribe of the Koreish,
due disaster or not, according as he pronounced him the false prophet.
should prove able to impose himself upon However that may be, Mohammed
the people, for there have been many Ahmed has been constantly growing in
false prophets presenting that claim, who power to this day, when he occupies
have had sometimes great success for a nearly all the Soudan, and he has cost
time, but sometimes also none at all. the English much money, a great many
The idea of the Mahdi is the same with soldiers, and several generals, chief
the idea of the Messiah ; it is the Persian
version in fact of the Judaic original.
When everything is getting as bad as
possible iu Islam, and .Satan, or the
Beast of the Apocalypse, or Antichrist,
or the false prophet, whom the doctrine
of Islam calls Deddjal (the Impostor) —
appears, — then the true prophet is to
come. This personage must be of the

family of Mahomet ; at the head of the
true believers he will master, one by one,
the Moslem kingdoms, and his title will
be El Mahdi, or He who is led. At the
coining of Deddjal, too, Jesus is to
descend from heaven, but not to play
the foremost part, as in Christian proph-
ecy, but as assistant to the Mahdi,
who will be his Imam, after whom he
will repeat his prayers. Many Mahdis
have had their day, and their failure has
proved them false prophets this one. now ;
he lias failed, will be fatalistically regarded EL MAHDI.

as another,and the Moslems will proceed
to look for the true Mahdi, who should among them the strange hero known as
come after the false. He had a good '•Chinese Gordon."
many of the marks he bore the same;
The first attempt to bring the Mahdi
name as the Prophet, Mohammed Ahmed ;
to terms was disastrous to the small de-
his father bore the same name as the tachment charged with the duty an- ;
Prophet's father, Abdallah ; his mother, other fared no better, and in June, 1882,.
like the Prophet's mother, was Annua ;
he, with his Soudanese, swept out of ex-
he was forty years old when he appeared, istence the Egyptian army of the Soudan,
and that is the sacred age, Mahomet's — numbering six thousand men, under Yus--
own age at his revelation ; and, more- suf Pasha, slaying all but a few soldiers.
over, he had been carefully brought up From that victory he began offensive
as a candidate for the position. Yet war. overran the wide country without
against these advantages it must be check, and brought to his side nearly
said that the ulemas declared him an every tribe of the region. He was de-
feated at Bara, and again in his fierce force in Sennaar, April 29, and the
assaults on El Gbeid, capital of Kordo- Mahdi's vizier was among the slain,
fan, where he was thrice repulsed and while the Mahdi himself was shortly
lost, it is said, ten thousand men. But after beaten, and tied to Kordofan.
afterward, early in 1883, he took Bara, Thereafter for months Hicks had a
and then El Obeid surrendered, and career of uninterrupted success, and
nearly all its garrison took service with things looked hopeful when, in early
him, and made the town his dwelling-
lie autumn, he set out at the head of ten
place. was not until after this tri-
It, thousand men to quell the Mahdi by one
umphant career, and the establishment blow. He was betrayed into an am-
of a mighty prestige with tin' lawless bush, and his force utterly destroyed ;
tiibesof tin' region, that the Egyptian gov- no European at all survived, and the
ernment began to consider the necessity Egyptian campaign against the Mahdi
of suppressing his formidable rebellion. was at an end —
the resources of the
It must not be forgotten that this region Khedive were exhausted.
of the Soudan, populated by intelligent, The English had waited too long.
vigorous and free races, had been for Had they supported the Khedive from
many years subjected to the grossest the start, as they had morally bound
tyranny and exaction, under the reign of themselves to do by their suppression of
the Khedive Ismail and his predecessor. Arabi's rebellion, the Mahdi's career
Before this was that, Charles George
it might have been cut short. Hut, the
Gordon hail had his wonderful career as government had declined to help Egypt
Governor-General of the Soudan, in in subjugating the Soudan. Lord Gran-
which he had greatly lightened the bur- ville had stated in Parliament in the
den of the cruel rule of Egypt, and the spring of 1883 that "Her Majesty's
atrocities of the slave-trade. His was government, were no way responsible
in
the first administration in which hu- for the operations which had been under-
manity and respect for the rights of the taken on the authority of tin- Egyptian
Soudanese had been shown, and its ex- government, or for the appointment and
perience had intensified the discontent action of General Hicks." But when
of the people, and they were rile for Hicks and his army had been massacred,
revolt when the Mahdi gave them the a certain sense of responsibility began
opportunity and impulse. It was a scat- to managers of British
creep over the
ered popular movement that the Egyp- foreign Something must, lie
affairs.
tian government now undertook to put done. At, once the attempt was made
down. The Khedive, after the fall of to get Egypt to abandon the Soudan,
El Obeid, organized such an army as he for conquer she could not, nor would
it,
could to oppose the dangerous rising, England help her. But that was con-
and sent it thither under the command —
ceded for, really, what choice had Tew-
of an Englishman, Hicks Pasha. Abd- fik, a powerless "protected" prince,
cl Kader, an Arab, with a small force, the mere administrator of British will?
had already entered Sennaar and gained Then arose the question of the garri-
some success, when Hicks arrived at sons, thirty thousand soldiers, mostly
Khartoum, in March. At first, it seemed Egyptians, in Khartoum, and Berber,
that Hicks would save the fortunes of Dongola, Kassala, and other places,
the Khedive's rule. He defeated a large who would assuredly he butchered by
EUROl'K IN STORM AND CALM. 825
the fanatic followers of the Mahdi if for the presence of such a man, with a
they were left there. It was at this born genius for command, an unex-
juncture that the British thought of ampled capacity in organizing Ever Vic-
•
Charles George Gordon. This wonder- torious' armies, ami a perfect knowledge
ful soldier of fortune, whom some call of the Soudan and its people. Why not
"
the greatest Englishman of his age, did send him out with carte blanche?
not desire the work, for he knew what it The British government knew all this
was, none so well ; and, moreover, he well they knew Gordon's genius and
;
had already iial ('-engaged with the King gifts and the great things lie had done in
of the Belgians to go to the upper Congo
and supplement Stanley's work, by ex-
tirpating the slave-trade of Central Af-
rica. For that he had quitted his re-
treat in the Holy Land, where he had
been meditating and producing that
book of mystical religious thought since
published yet. when he asked the per-
;
mission of the British government to

take that service, and yet retain his
commission as major-general, there was
some difficulty made about it. But as-
sent was gained when, on the eve of de-
parture lor that service. Gordon was
sought for the Soudan. The govern-
ment was not the first to ask for Gor-
don that was left for the newspapers,
;
and they were not backward in doing

their duty. Said the " Pall Mall Ga-
zette:" ''If we have not an Egyptian
army to employ, and if we must not send GEX. C, G. GORDON.
an English force, what are we to do?
There is only one thing that we can do. China, and what former service as Gov-
We cannot send a regiment to Khar- ernor-General of the Soudan, the most
toum, but we can send a man who, on popular one that ever ruled, and the only
more than one occasion, has proved him- one that had ever done any good there
self more valuable in similar circum- excel it Sir Samuel Baker. But Gordon
stances than an entire army. Why not was a man of greater resources and more
send Chinese Gordon to Khartoum, to striking character than the excellent
assume absolute control over the terri- Baker. He had shown one of his eccen-
tory, to treat with the Mahdi, to relieve by refusing a salary of £10,000
tricities
the garrisons, and do what can be done, a year, the Khedive appointed him
when
to save what can be saved, from the governor of the tribes in upper Egypt in
wreck in the Soudan? His engagement 1877, and would take but £2,000, saying
on the Congo could surely be postponed. that the money was wrung from the pov-
No man can deny the urgent need in the erty of a wretched people whom he pitied.
midst of that hideous welter of confusion He was made a pasha, and, in February,
1877, he was made Governor-General of tian government. The British govern-

the Soudan. In the course of that year ment had the choice of simply aiding
he travelled through the whole of this this policy, had advised the Khe-
which it
great proconsulate, settling difficulties, dive to adopt, or of supporting the Khe-

pacifying hostile tribes, removing -officers dive by British troops, numerous enough
who oppressed the people, gaining the to pursue an active and destructive cam-
love of the people by his brilliant Insight paign against the formidable false pro-
ami unswerving justice, and winning an phet. Gordon made a memorandum of
almost superstitious admiration by the his own plans, which, as read now, imli-
rapidity of his movements and the cate the impossibility of working in Lon-
celerity of his despatch of affairs. The don and at Khartoum on two very different
great work of his administration was not lines. The evacuation of the Soudan,
the putting down of rebellion in Darfur, the mere resc f the Egyptian garri-
or the ending of the war with Abyssinia, suns, could have Keen accomplished had
hut the crippling of the power of the then- been no other considerations, lint
slave-dealers at the very source of their Gordon also planned to make a disposi-
supplies. He captured hundreds of slave tion for the future of the country. Not-
caravans, and put an end to a dominion withstanding that he hail said at the start
which hail fur years been stronger in " I understand that Her Majesty's gov-
actual influences than the power of the ernmeut have come to the irrevocable
Khedive. In doing this Gordon hast- decision nut to incur the very onerous
ened tin- way own death (if. in-
of his duty of securing to the peoples of the
deed, lie lie when his able
dead), for Soudan a just future government," in
lieutenant, the Italian Romulus Gessi, the same paragraph In- went on to
executed the penalty of death upon Sulei- say that. • as a consequence, Her
man, the robber chief, sou of Zebehr, the Majesty's government have determined
kill",' of the slave-traders, the act. al- to restore to these peoples their inde-
though Zebehr acknowledged its rightful- pendence " ami. further on, he says:
;
ness. was not forgotten or forgiven by "My idea is that the restoration of the
that important personage, who was able country should he made to the different
to direct from his detainment, under sur- petty sultans who existed at the time of
veillanee at Cairo, the operations of trai- Mehemet Ali's conquest, and whose
tors who opened the gates of Khartoum families still exist ; that the Mahdi should
to the Mahdi. But this is to anticipate, lie left altogether out of the calculation
Having these things iii mind the Brit- as regards the handing over the country;
ish government did appoint Gordon, and, and that it should he optional with tin-
ever ready to obey the summons to a sultans to accept his supremacy or not.
field of immediate and pressing action. As these sultans would pi obably not he -
he responded promptly, informing King likely to gain by accepting the Mahdi as

Leopold that he should hope to he able their sovereign, it is probable that they
to carry out his engagement with him con- independent positions.
will hold to their
cerning the Cong., after he had accom- Thus, we should have two factions to
plished his work on the Soudan. lie deal with, namely, the petty sultans as-
went with the clear understanding that sertiug their several independence, and
the end to he accomplished was the the Mahdi party aiming at supremacy
evacuation of the Soudan by the Egyp- over them." The arsenals, therefore.
should be handed over to the sultans, and done without great costin men or money,
not the Mahdi ; but in Khartoum, Don- lie required also for his lieutenant whom
gola, and Kassala, towns which have but his old enemy Zebehr, the slave-
sprung up since the first Khedive's con- trader! Shortly after he astonished the
quest, there were no old ruling families, world by proclaiming in Khartoum non-
and there Gordon thought it should be interference with the slave-trade. The
left to the people to decide as to the arse- inconsistency of this action with Gor-
nals, etc. All this involved precisely don's professions and previous record
what Gordon had plainly said he knew seemed impossible to explain but the ;
government would not do, and

the British British government expressed their con-
what, in fact, it did not do. Neverthe- fidence in his judgment in the emergency.
less, itwas with these ideas that he left Seven-eighths of the population of the
for the Soudan. " It would In- an iniq- Soudan were slaves at that time, and
uity to reconquer these people and then Gordon had to reassure the Soudanese
hand them back to the Egyptians without againsl the impression disseminated by
guarantee of future good government." the Mahdi that Gordon's purpose was
And, therefore, he did notdesire that the to extinguish their property in slaves.
British should take the part of the Egyp- Whether he intended or not, at the stall,
tian government, but he did outline a pro- to subjugate the Mahdi, he found when
gramme of sustaining the local sultans as he got on the spot that if he did not,
against the Kordofan prophet which in- nothing could save Egypt from his ad-
volved a great deal larger force and more vance after the Sondau was conquered,
fighting than the government at London as soon would be. and he thought the
it.
ever contemplated. Thus, although the British government might better do the
government never promised to fulfil job then, when it would !»• comparatively
Gordon's plans, itdid express the inmost easy, than suffer the influence of the
confidence in his wisdom, and tell him to Mahdi to spread until lie possessed an
go ahead, with •• full discretionary power irresistible force. But the British gov-
to retain the troops for such reasonable ernment sent no more troops and paid
period as you may think necessary in no heed to Gordon's demand for Zebehr.
order that the abandonment of the coun- Gordon <rrew desperate, if we may judge
try may lie accomplished with the least by his despatches at the time, ami espec-
possible risk to life and property." And ially by his diaries since published.
Gordon sailed with this unrecognized but Things had been going constantly against
most serious difference between himself him. Colonel Valentine Baker, in the ser-
aud the government. viceof the Sultanas Baker I'asha, hadsuf-
The late Governor-General of the Sou- fered a severe defeat at Tokar, February
dan reached Khartoum February 18, 1884. 4 ; Tewfik Bey had, a week later, tried to
His first acts were to liberate prisoners cut his way with his garrison out of
and prepare for the removal of the gar- Sinkat, but all the six hundred men were
rison to Berber. Iu nine days more he slain by the forces of Osman Digna, who
had surveyed the field and come to ttie was now recognized as the Mahdi's viz-
conclusion that it was necessary, in order ier. Tokar had surrendered. A mas-
to accomplish his plans, to crush the sacre of Egyptians, endeavoring to escape
Mahdi, and he began telegraphing to from the country, had occured at Sheinly.
Sir Evelyn Baring that it could then be There had been a temporary gleam of
828 EUROPE IX STORM AXI> CALM.
success in General Graljiyn's defeat of consider jnysalf free to act. according to

a force near Trinkitat ; but that was circumstances. I shall hold on here as
more than by the massacre of a
offset long as I can, and if I can suppress the
part of the Egyptian army under com- rebellion 1 shall do so. If I cannot, I
mand of Colonel Stewart, for it revealed shall retire to the Equator, and leave you
the existence of treachery ; two pashas the indelible disgrace of abandoning the
having been detected in their negotia- garrisons of Sennaar, Kassala, Berber,
tions and shot. Meantime, Gordon's and Dongola, with the certainty that you
communications with the world were will eventually be forced to smash up
often cut off, and repeatedly lie tele- the Mahdi under greater difficulties, if
graphed for reinforcements, declaring you retain peace in Egypt."
his conviction that he should be caught For months thereafter nothing was
in Khartoum. April 8 he got through heard of Gordon any more than if he
the following message to Sir Evelyn had been in the moon. A diary of the
Baring :
— siege of Khartoum, written by a. news-
" I have telegraphed to Sir Samuel paper correspondent named Power,
Baker to make an appeal to British and reached London September 2'.), contain-
American millionaires to give me £300,- ing the first information from the belea-
(lilll to engage Turkish troops from the guered place for live months. What
Sultan and send them here. This will righting Gordon did in the interim was
settle the Soudan and Mahdi forever; from iiis steamers on the Nile. The long
for my part I think you will agree with siege was sustained, not by the bravery
me. I do not see the fun of being of the garrison, for, as Mr. Power wrote,
caught here to walk about the streets for the Egyptian soldiers were such pol-
years as a dervish with sandalled feet ;
troons that •• one Arab can put two hun-
not that ( I). V.) I will ever be taken dred of our men to flight," nor by the
alive. It would be tiie climax of mean- abundance of provisions, for they grew
ness, after I had borrowed money from very scarce, but by the invincible spirit
the people here, had called on them to of Gordon. This, however, did not
grain at a low price, etc., to go
sell their make him more popular with the people
and abandon them without using every of Khartoum, who. doubtless, did not
effort to relieve them. Whether these understand the conduct of such a man.
efforts are diplomatically correct or not, It was a month later before word was
1 feel sure, whatever you may feel had directly from Gordon, giving details
diplomatically. I have your support — of the siege. At that time he had sent
and every man professing himself a important sorties, and even expeditions,
gentleman in private. —
Nothing could from Khartoum, in one of which Berber,
be more meagre than your telegram, captured in May by the Mahdi, had been
'
Osman Digna's followers have been retaken by Colonel Stewart. But, on
dispersed.' Surely something more than theway back, Stewart and Power and
this was required by inc." another European, making their way
Eight days later he wrote as follows: down the river in a small .steamer, were
" As far as I can understand the situa- wrecked, and the whole party murdered
tion is this: You state your intention of by a local whose professions
sheikh, in
not sending any relief up here or to of friendship had trusted.theyIt
Berber, and you refuse me Zebehr. I became more and more evident that the
;
EUROPE IN STORM AMP CALM. 829
Soudanese were impatient at the occupa- had fired about half a million cartridges ;
tion of their country, and more inclined two of his little steamers had received
to accept the lead of theMahdi. It was on their hulls nine hundred and eight
recognized in England that this was the hundred hits, respectively; yet only
character of the movement that con- thirty men had been wounded. killed or
tinued to be called a " rebellion." Mr. But the strain upon he besieged was I
Gladstone, in Parliament, replying to terrible. Great economy of food was

" .Jingo" attack's, spoke of the Mahdi as necessary every one was rationed, and
;
one leading a people to freedom ; and food had become thirty times dearer
it was true. All the while, therefore, than its usual price. He bad borrowed
the Mahdi's strength continued to in- money to feed the starving, and he had
crease, and he was constantly gaining issued paper to the extent of over
small victories, and closing in on Khar- £21',, 000, while he owed the merchants
toum. The diaries of Gordon have twice as much more. lie struck medals,
enabled us to follow the whole course of for the defence of Khartoum ; for of-
this time, when he felt that he was ficers, in silver, for privates, in silver-
abandoned by the British government, gilt and pewter.These bore the device
and when there was a loud cry went up of the crescent and the star, with a
in Eugland almost to cursing the gov- quotation from the Koran, a, date and
ernment but yet the authorities de-
;
the inscription "Siege of Khartoum."
clared Gordon in no danger. Lord "School children and women." he writes
Granville asserted that in the House of in his diary, " also received medals,
Lords, and said that if he felt himself so that I am very popular with the
abandoned, it was because the govern- black ladies of Khartoum." The stores
ment despatches had not reached him. of ammunition grew low, and had to be
In May a meeting of the Patriotic Asso- husbanded very carefully. Gordon was
ciation was held in St. James Hull, everything; without him there was no
London. The Earl of Cadogan presided. strength whatever. The military, the
Mr. Chaplin, M.P. moved, and the Earl
, ulemas, sojourners, and citizens of
of Dunraven seconded a resolution Khartoum, on August 19, telegraphed

"that this meeting condemns the aban- to the Khedive as follows " Weakened :
donment of General Gordon by Her and reduced to extremities, God in his

Majesty's ministers as dishonorable to mercy sent Gordon Pasha to us in the
them and discreditable to the country." amidst of our calamities, or we should
It was then declared that ho bad asked all have perished of hunger and been
for moue} and it had not been sent

-
,
destroyed. But sustained by his intelli-
had asked for Zebehr, and had been gence and great military skill, we have
refused had prayed for troops, and
; been preserved until now." That shows
been told there were none. It was often what Gordon was to his Mohammedan
said that Gordon could get out if he friends ; yet at this time he was writ-
would, and there is no doubt that he ing, " We appeared even as liars to the
might have done so alone, but that he people of Khartoum," because nothing
called, in his unmincing manner, " sneak- that he asked for was granted him.
ing out," and he could not sneak. Finally, August 20, he sent to the
At the beginning of August, it is Khedive, to Sir Evelyn Baring, and to
known from the diaries, Gordon's troops Nubar Pasha, this significant despatch :
830 EUROrE IN STORM AXD CALM.
" I am awaiting the arrival of Brit-

ish troops, in order to evacuate
tlic Egyptian garrisons. Send me
Zebehr Pasha, and pay
him a yearly salary of
£8,000. I shall surren-
der the Soudan to the
Sultan as two soon as
hundred thousand Turk-
ish troops have arrived.
If the rebels kill the
Egyptians, you will be
answerable for their
blond. Irequire£300,000
for soldiers' pay, my daily
expenses being £1,500."
mON OF TKOOPS FOR EGYPT.
while it had been at last deter-

i England to attempt the relief
on. On the 5th of August, a
£300,000 was voted to prepare
an expedition, and Lord Wolse-
Egypt, was directly after un-
til command it. It was resolved
a railway up the Nile valley.
;
EUROPE IN STURM AXD CALM. 831
Four hundred boats of light draught were Ami the pine becomes a palm by the dark
Egyptian water
ordered, and ship-yards at Liverpool,
And the Nile's like many a stream we know-
London, Hull, Hartlepool, and Dundee
that fills the brimming cup.
were busy with the noise of labor day We'll think it is the Ottawa, as we track the
and night presently four hundred more
; batteaux up.
were ordered. On the 30th of August Pull, pull, pull ! we traek the batteaux up!
as
the Nile was reported and it was rising, It's easy shooting homeward when we're at the
top."
time things were on the move. Lord
Northbrook was to accompany Wolseley
This is quite in the measure and spirit
so far as Cairo. There were prepara-
of the Canadian cliantis, as they call
tions swiftly made in London for the
departure of the troops, and there was
great excitement as some favorite regi-
ment embarked upon the Thames. Some
troops were ordered from India, and the
whole force to go south of Assouan, that
is, above (he cataracts, was determined
to comprise eight thousand British

troops, two thousand five hundred Egyp-
tians, and a flotilla of nine hundred and
fifty boats ; the cost of the campaign was
reckoned at £8,000,000. There were
already ten thousand British troops in
Egypt, and the reinforcements were to

number five There grew a
thousand.
great popular interest in the war move-
ment, for Jingoism is a permanent quality
in England the colonies felt the demand,
;
and troops went from Australia and

from Canada. The Marquis of Lans-
downe, Governor-General of the Domin- LORD WOLSELEY.
ion, enlisted a contingent of six hundred
boatmen of the St. Lawrence and Ot- them, and very likely was sung on the
tawa, who had long navigated the rapids Nile among the boatmen's own simple
of those might}' rivers of the North, lays, — a picturesque incident of a waste-
to conduct the troop-boats up the fuland ineffectual war.
rapids ofthe Nile, under command of Lords Northbrook and "Wolseley
Major Dennison of the Governor-Gen- reached Alexandria September 9, the
eral's body-guard. The popular songs same night reached Cairo, and there
in London streets were of Egypt and Wolseley waited until the troops and
Gordon; and this interesting composi- transports had passed the second cata-
tion bade the Caughnawagas God-speed ract, former by land, the latter
the
on (heir service :
— pushed by the poles of hundreds of
half-fed laborers. Above Dongola the
•' Oh, the East is but tiie West, with the sun a advance was to be by water. The
little hotter, enlistment of a camel corps, for the
crossing of the desert, — :i novel experi- November he called upon Gordon to

ment, which proved of great- practical surrender ; but that stanch heart did
service, — was ordered. The railway not fail him, and he returned answer,
corps were set to building :i road " Notforten years," and afterward sent.
across twenty miles of desert beyond word, ".When you, () Mahdi dry up !
Sarras. to escape (he Scinneh cataracts. (he Nile and walk across dry-shod with
When was ready Wolseley
everything your troops and get into Khartoum and
was to advance Wady Haifa and
to take me, then I will surrender the town,
direct operations thence. Meantime and not before." But, as a matter of
there were many combats going on over fact, he did not intend to surrender the
other parts of the Soudan which were town, or himself ; nor did he intend to
draining the English purse and losing accept from the expedition a personal
English lives to do permanent purpose relief for himself, or the relief of that
and little present effect. The Mahdi's garrison alone. About this time, in his
force was greatly scattered, and much diary, he repeatedly expressed his deter-
of it uncertain. The Mudir of Dongola mination never to leave Khartoum so
remained loyal to the Khedive, and was long as there remained a garrison in the
a bulwark against, the Mahdi's advance. Soudan unrelieved, or without a govern-
Now Gordon had made striking moves ment being established of some sort.
outside of Khartoum, and reports went " If any emissary or letter comes up
over the world of the most singular here ordering me to come down, I will
character, so that there was actually not obey it," he wrote, " but will stay
triumphant talk, September 21st, over a here and fall with the town, and run all
despatch from the Mudir recounting risks;" for he felt that the people had
victories gainedby Gordon in July and placed in him their entire confidence,
August, the latest a mouth back, which and it would be treachery in him to
the Mudir said resulted in raising the abandon them, even should he only stay-
siege of Khartoum. Hut though the as nothing but a private person, without
lines were broken several times by the authority. was heard from him
Little
magnificent dashes of Gordon and Stew- outside mouths
for but a few words ;
art, and the food supplies of the be- occasionally got through on bits of paper
leaguered place replenished, the siege stuffed in the hollow of quills and car-
was destined never to be raised. It ried in the messenger's bush}' hair, and
was on October.'!, Wolseley being then by other such means. These were
at Wady Haifa, and the expedition mak- sometimes full of despair, as in a note
ing slow progress up the Nile, that Gen- received in November by a friend at
eral Gordon advanced with two steamers Cairo, saying, " Farewell ;
you will
from Khartoum, bombarded Berber, and never hear from me again. I fear that
retook it from the Mahdi's forces, on the there will lie treachery in the garrison,
return from which expedition Colonel and all will lie over by Christmas."
Stewart and Mr. Power were killed. Sometimes they were cheerful, as the
This success had determined the false line " Khartoum all right, 14th Decem-
prophet upon an absolute investment, ber." which reached head-quarters at

and he gathered forces from far and Koiti, on New Year's Day.
near, and soon hail over 15,000 men The column under General Herbert
around Khartoum. On the 4th of Stewart made a rapid inarch across the
desert, and the camels were extremely men approached Abu Klea Wells, they
satisfactory. The advance had reached were attacked by from 8,000 to 10,000
Gakdul Wells and Howeiyat Wells, of the Mahdi's followers, at a point
near Metemneh, January 10, and Gen- twenty-three miles north-west of Me-
eral Gordon's steamers were plying on teinneh, and lost sixty-five in slain
the river between Khartoum and Me- and eighty-five in wounded, after
temneh, not only to keep killing eight hundred of the rebels and
the water-way open, bul wounding as many more. General
WUtUj to communicate, as soon Stewart formed his troops into a hol-
as possible, with the re- low square, with his field-pieces at the
lief Force and to gather corners and with the invalids and the
supplies, which provisions in the centre. The Arabs
i.
.,,. . „
,
they succeeded made their attack in a tumultuous rush,
in doing. Ihe directed principally upon the side of the
s e c o n d square held by the hussars. It was a
part of fierce hand-to-hand fight most of the
time. A steady and deadly firewas
kept up by the lnissais ami the mounted
infantry, while the artillery maintained
DEPARTURE OF TROOPS FOR EGYPT.
the forces travelled much more slowly an enfilading fire, which piled dead
across the desert than the first, for Arabs up in heaps. The space in
every ounce of and water had food front of the British right flank was a
to be carried, and there was terrible veritable slaughter-pen. But among
suffering from thirst. General Earle's the English dead were some important
party were making their way up the men, most noteworthy being Lieutenant-
Nile, and the forces were expected Colonel Fred Burnaby, who made the
soon to unite. On the afternoon of famous •• Ride to Khiva," and who was
the 16th, as the little army of 1,500 killed by an Arab spear thrust through
his neck. The victory had been gained of Gordon to welcome them, they were
at great cost. confronted by thousands of Arabs, wildly
Twelve days later another battle was waving and a dozen pieces of
flags,
fought at Metemneh, and with disas- backed by a thousand rifles,

artillery,
ter. General Stewart was desperately opened fire upon them. Against this
wounded, and two London newspaper odds it was, of course, impossible to
correspondents were killed, St. Leger — land, and Wilson retreated down the
Herbert, of "The Morning Post," and river. His steamers were both wrecked
Mr. Cameron, of "The Standard." The on the way, by treacherous pilots, but
little force, amid the storm of bullets, and the men all escaped, and remained three
under command of Sir Charles Wilson, days on an island before they were
began a retreat to the Nile, firing in a rescued. The whole story of the fall of
running light a.ll along the line as the}' Khartoum has never been told by any
went. Not till night did the enemy reliable person, though there have been
withdraw. But, having placed them- a score of minute accounts, each one
selves in a strongly-fortified position contradicting every other. The most
at Gubat on the Nile, the English that, iscredibly ascertained is that Khar-
troops rested secure. The next day toum was betrayed by three Soudanese
four of Gordon's steamers came down sheiks, whom Gordon had treated only
from Khartoum, with a reinforcement too well. Faragh Pasha, whom Gordon
of five hundred soldiers and several had once had condemned to death and
guns. General Earle's column in a few then pardoned, is said to have been the
clays arrived at Berti, and occupied it. man who opened the gates of the city,
There was now every hope of a speedy and some add even that he was the one
entrance into Khartoum. This was Gen- who struck tordon dead. Many pictures
(
eral Wolseley's expectation, and the have been drawn of Gordon's death, the
people of London were full of rejoic- most probable being that, hearing an
ing. unusual noise on the street, he stepped
Suddenly, without the least prepara- to the door of the government house, and
tion, a cruel blow fell which crushed was stabbed on the threshold. There was
all the British hopes. On the 5th of a romance which many wished to believe,
February the news reached England that that the brave soldier had been made
Khartoum had fallen into the hands of captive by the Mahdi, who would treat,
the Mahdi that massacre had followed
; ; him well ; and, indeed, there are those
and that the fate of the brave Gordon who do believe that Gordon yet lives.
was unknown. The story of (he Soudan is not yet
Wilson had steamed up the
Sir Charles finished, though Wolseley has returned
Nile,January 2 I, with twenty men of the to England with no new honors, and the
Sussex Regiment and three hundred and garrisons of the Egyptians at Kassala
twenty Soudanese, who had but just and other places have not been relieved.
before comedown from rordon. As they < Suakim. on the Red Sea, is in the British
neared Khartoum they found, to their hands; the Italians hold Massowah,
alarm and surprise, that every point on against the protests of the King of
the way was in the hands of enemies, Abyssinia, but Osman Digna possesses
and when they had approached within all the country between there and the
eight hundred yards of the walls, instead Nile, except where sundry fierce tribes
;
EUROPE IN STORM AND CALM. 8^5
dwell that will not recognize the Mahdi Ahmed lias been reported dead and
and the region is in normal state of
its revived again alternately so often that it
predatory war. The .Soudanese want to is somewhat a mystery. But it is no

be free from the Egyptians, free from mystery that the British in the Soudan
the British, and left to their own way of have sustained great loss of prestige,
life, without the innovation of the tax- and have accomplished nothing toward
gatherer, that leech that drains the life the strengthening of their dominion in
of poor fellaheeu. Whether the}'
the the East, where they are destined to be
had much religious confidence in the forever menaced by the ambition of
Mahdi may be questioned, but he was rulers, the rivalry of trade, the restive-
a leader for liberty, and that has ness of subject nations, and the treachery
been enough. Of late Mohammed of allies and tributaries.
; ;
CHAPTER NINETY-FOUR.
The Death of Victor Hugo. — The Man of Letters since Goethe. — Napoleon
Greatest European III. 'a
Irreconcilable Foe. — Jlis — The Pantheon Secularized. — In State Beneath the
Obsequies. Arch
of Triumph. —A Vast Procession. — The Demonstration of the French People.
ONE present
of the
Year
memorable events of
in Europe,
the
unques-
that while the great criminal reigned in
France, he accepted exile, " have it nor
was the death of Victor Hugo.
tionably, end nor term " :
—
Long acknowledged as the greatest of
all the poets of France, living- or dead, 'lie there a thousand, I am one; or if our
and famous iii his prime as the leader strength
Have hut one hundred left, Sylla is braved by
of Romantic revolution in French
the
me
literature and the august head of that be the tenth;
If only ten continue, I will
school, he had become the principal man And if lint erne remain, 1 then that one will be."
in European letters since Goethe; more
than that, he had borne a great part in After Hugo's death the London
the advance of Europe toward freedom, " Times " cavilled, as it had in his life,
in all fields of life, in social and political, at his constant appeals in behalf of
in national and international movements. causes for charity or pity, declaring that
Born an aristocrat, he became the most he did little for humanity, and that his
radical and broad-minded of republicans, sentiinentalisni was rather vague and
and was true to the people in their storm inoperative. This was unfair and un-
as in their calm. He had no toleration generous. Victor Hugo was as thorough
I'oi tyrants; nothing could make him a warrior for ideals as were William
compromise his principles by condoning Lloyd Garrison or Brown; he
John
the crime of the Second of (ecember, and 1 was ready at any time to lay down
when many another republican of 1848 his life or sacrifice his fortune for the
had accepted office, and almost all im- truth. Some far-off day, when the hu-
munity from Napoleon III., Victor lingo, man race shudders as it remembers that
faithful to his professions, would not society once practised capital punish-
reenter France, hut hurled his tierce in- ment upon criminals — thus announcing
vective against " This beggar-wretch," — its own disbelief in that sacredness
of human life which it sought to teach
"This brigand whom the Pope hath blessed in — tin 1
passionate and constant protests
all his sin ;
of Hugo against the barbarity of exe-
This sceptre-fingering, this crowbar-handed
cutioners will be treasured as memo-
one
This Charlemagne by the devil hewn out of a rials of a courage which has had few
Manadrin," equals in the nineteenth century. His
sentimental appeals have done more
as he called him in a poem of " Les for the progress of liberalism in legisla-
Chatiments," wherein also he declared tion and in thought in Europe than a
EUROPE IN .STORM AND CALM. 837
score of the most prominent English The burial of the great man was
writers have effected. Reformer, with a preceded and accompanied by the most
pen tipped with lire, the good man elaborate and exceptional ceremonies.
wrote his denunciations of shams and notwithstanding that in his will he had
tyrannies without the smallest regard for written that he wished to lie borne to his
the rvil consequences which his daring grave in the hearse of the poor. A
might bring upon himself. The praises committee representing the best in French
at this moment accorded him in France literature, painting, and sculpture made
are somewhat extravagant yet it is not ;
preparations to celebrate the dead ; the
too much to say that no other man has left government decreed the secularization of
so strong an impression on this century. the Pantheon to receive his remains, and
Hugo may be said to have had three to the great scandal of the Roman ( Ihurch
lives- — through all of which nms a con- the stone cross that surmounted its portals
sistent thread of noble effort for the was hewn off in visible symbol of the
improvement of humanity. Even in his divorce of religion from the temple which
earlier poems he is already the vah s. Louis the Well-Beloved built; which
The things say themselves; he is but the Revolution in 1791 consecrated to the
the medium; his spirit is a delicate lyre illustrious dead of the nation, entomb-
through which the wind of the world ing therein Voltaire, and Rousseau, and
flows, awakening it to harmonious notes, Mirabeau ; which the Bourbons restored
now tender, now martial. In his middle to the Church, and called by the name
life of struggle and exile he appears of Ste. Genevieve, and which the pious
both as riilt's and as consummate artist. Louis Napoleon, in 1851, gave back to
He hears the voices of the hidden choir, the Church after another brief period of
and in reporting their messages to men popular possession. There was a certain
he clothes them in most felicitous phrase. Hugo's sepulture should undo
fitness that
All that he does, he does best ; it is the consecration given by the grace of
pitched in exalted key; his subject, as Napoleon Le Petit. His body could
Emerson said of poetry, is always not have been buried there while the
"lifted into air." In the final period, Church held the splendid building, for
when struggle is over, and when he is bell or book Hugo would have none.
looking back, with gaze chastened and Not that he was irreligious although he ;
cleared by earthly sorrows, his whole refused the visit of a priest in his last
strength is turned to the task of preach- hours, he was not without God in the
ing love, reconciliation, forgiveness, world. In his will, or testament mystique,
peace. In Senate and in his library he as it is called, Hugo made a philosophical
labored for mercy, for the comfort of the explanation of his beliefs. lie has
toiling masses, for the pacific accom- always and on all public occasions, when
plishment of social reform. He was an it seemed appropriate, affirmed his belief
advanced republican of the highest type ; in Cod. His contempt for the modern
and the sentiments which he so boldly materialist was nearly as great as his
proposed will do more than anything scorn for the bigot, Catholic or Protes-
eKe to bring about disarmament, arbitra- tant. His religion was the religion of
tion, sincerity in polities. Men said humanity ; love was its central and in-
" the age of Voltaire ;
" they will say forming purpose ; love for God, love for
" the age of Hugo." his neighbor.
83* EUROTE IN STORM AND CALM.
All funerals in France are surrounded The Pompes Funebres did its best to
with many ceremonious observances; fulfil the demands of the great occasion
the pomp of death is, indeed, given a sort of Hugo's burial but most of the dis-
;
of luxurious indulgence, and there has play was quite beyond its power and
never yet been a thought of adding scope. Greater honors were paid to the
"Please omit flowers" to the elaborate poet than have been paid to any sover-
letters of invitation which are always eign of France for three hundred years,
dispatched to friends by the nearest notwithstanding his desire for a modest
on heavy black-
relative of the deceased, burial, beside the remains of his wife and
bordered paper, folded over and mailed daughter, which lie in the little grave-
without envelopes. When the dead is a yard of the parish church of Villequier,
distinguished man or woman there are on the right bank of the Seine, halfway
more pains taken, and among the features between Rouen and Havre. The people
of French news always are the funerals would not have it so. and thus, although
of notables. Such an occasion has more his body was borne to its rest on the
than once centred or started a popular pauper's hearse, it was as the centre of a
movement, and the government always triumphal procession, and, although no
has a careful oversight of the burial of the church rites were observed, there were
great, as it had over that of Victor Hugo. such spontaneous demonstrations of
The Conservatives and the Monarchists affectionand admiration by the people
had the notion that the funeral parade as rendered the perfunctory honors of
would be made the occasion for a mani- clerical routine quite insignificant. The
festation against property, or, possibly, assembly voted 20,000 francs for the
against the government, by the Anarch- funeral expenses. Committees were ap-
ists ; in fact, the bourgeois were in a pointed of the Senate, of which Victor
veritable funk. The Catholics felt that Hugo was a member, and of the Chamber
should the funeral be disgraced in some of Deputies, to attend the obsequies.
way by misconduct of the assembled Deputations were appointed from all
thousands, they might say, "You see to parts of France and Europe, from munici-
what a secular funeral leads." But these palities, and from societies. From the
were all disappointed. The management Academy were sent the last four members
of funerals in Paris is under the charge elected to the fellowship of the Forty
of the Pompes Fun&bres, a cooperative Immortals, — Pailleron,Mazade,Coppc5e,
society under government patronage, and De Lesseps. The list of the depu-
which has the monopoly of the trade in tations tilled seven and a half closely
Collins, so that there are no undertakers' printed columns of a large journal the
shops in Paris, and which supplies the evening before the funeral.
entire machinery of the funeral at a The body of Victor Hugo was laid in
fixed price, set down in a printed tariff. state, beneath the Arch of Triumph,
A State funeral, like that of Henri Mar- during Sunday, May 31. The evening
tin, the historian, costs some 15,000 before it had been placed in the coffin,
francs, ami the Pompes Funebres furnishes in the presence of witnesses, among
a master of ceremonies, a corps of official whom were Lockroy (mother of
Mine.
mourners, huge mortuary carriages and Georges and Jeanne Hugo, the poet's
a eolossal hearse, while the government grandchildren), Auguste Vacquerie, Paul
adds a military escort and immortelles. Meurice, and Leopold Hugo. In the
inner coffin beside the body were placed words " The City of Boston to Victor
:
the photographs of Hugo's children and Hugo." Under the superb sunshine of
grandchildren, a bronze medallion of the the afternoon the spectacle — with the
elder Vacquerie, — the husband of Hugo's faces of flags draped in black, the mam-
favorite daughter, Leopoldine, and sharer moth lampadaires placed in a circle
of her tragic death by the oversetting of around the Arch, the shields bearing
a boat forty years ago; bronze medals the names of the poet's works, and the
of Hugo's face, and a bouquet of roses. unending crowds passing with bowed
Then the coffins were closed, and early heads —
was vastly impressive. Ateven-
Sunday morning, in the dawn of a beau- ing, after the torches were lighted, the
tiful day, the employes of the Pompes scene was weird. The glitter of the
Fun&bres carried their charge to the uniforms of the cavalry ami infantry
Triumphal Arch, hoping at that hour to guards, the innocent faces of the young
be uninterrupted in their work of installa- children from the school battalions, the
tion within the catafalque. But so great uplifted visages of the rough men pass-
was the curiosity of the people that by ing by, many with eyes brimful of tears
the time the wagon containing the body as they came beneath the Arch, the
readied the Arch there was a compact reverent hum of the myriads of voices,
crowd of ten thousand men, with un- — all these were imposing. The Master
covered heads, all around the square of reposed beneath the monument which he
the Etoile. The catafalque was very had so often celebrated in his verse, — the
high, and immense black velvet draper- monument which celebrates the victories
ies, seamed with silver, hung around it, of Jemappes, Marengo, Zurich, Hohen-
while al! around were heaps of flowers linden, Austerlitz, Eylau. Above and
and wreaths, several feet high. The around him were inscribed the names of
receptacle for the coffin was in form like three hundred and eigbty-six generals
a vast sarcophagus, black and silver. and one hundred and twenty-six vic-
placed upon a double pedestal, and deco- tories. Behind his sarcophagus stretched
rated in front with a crown traversed by the Avenue de la Grande Armee.
palms, and a medallion of the Republic, The grand procession and the entomb-
with these words beneath: ' l
Liberty, ment in the Pantheon, on Monday, June
Equality, and Fraternity." This sarcoph- 1, were characterized by features which
agus was so artfully arranged that made them unprecedented in Paris. No

from whichever point one approached the such number of ] pie has [passed under
Arch its black and silver were distinctly the Triumphal Arch during one day since
seen. Great mourning bands of crape tlir return of the ashes of Napoleon the
were artisticallydraped from the summit Great to the Invalides. But on that occa-
to the base of the mighty Arch. The sion nothing like the enormous throng
catafalque was half buried beneath which gathered this morning on the
flowers whose perfume loaded the air. Place l'Etoile was seen. By noon there
The " lost provinces " were given a prom- were certainly 750,000 people in the area
inent place, ami among the inscriptions between the Tuileries Gardens and the
were " The City of Strasburg to Victor
: Porte Maillot and the network of streets
Hugo;" "The City of Mulhouse " ; radiating in all directions from the Arch.
" The Ladies of Thann to Hugo." Near By nine o'clock, the hour appointed for
by was a handsome wreath bearing the the assembling of the hundreds of asso-
840 EUROPE LV STORM AND CALM.
(nations, which wore divided into no less Senate, the Chamber, the twenty Mayors
than twenty-eight different groups, the of Paris, the Municipal Councillors, the
morning was cool and bright, and the Academicians in their somewhat gro-
thrones were in the best of good-humor. tesque uniforms; all these being harmo-
All the exaggerated notions of the Con- niously grouped about the towering
servatives about the danger of a Com- catafalque, which si 1 in bold relief
munistic demonstration were rendered against the brilliant blue of the sky.
groundless by the energetic actiou of the The official Of course
speeches began.
police agents, who, whenever they saw only those who were close at hand could
a delegation headed by a red flag, took hear them, and those who were far away
possession of the emblem, advising the missed little, for, with few exceptions,
manifestors not to resist, as it might be the speaking was dry and tame. Emile
unpleasant for them to do so in the midst Augier, the poet's old friend, said some
of a crowd whose majority were cer- eloquent words, declaring that the occa-
tainly anti-Communistic in sentiment. sion was not a funeral, but a consecra-
There were but eighteen red flags brought tion and Minister Floquet entered into
;
from the whole of the ( lommunist quarter direct rivalry with him by pronouncing
of Paris and from the various cities of it not a funeral, but an apotheosis.
France, and these were taken away, to Hugo, said Floquet, was the immortal
be handed back on the morrow to those apostle who bequeathed to humanity that
who could show t tit- to them. The whole
i gospel which could lead the people to
clerical party professed to believe, up to the definitive conquest of '* Liberty,
the last moment of the procession's pas- Equality, Fraternity." M. Goblet,
sage along its line of route, that there president of the Chambers of Deputies,
would be scenes of wild disorder, and declared that Victor Hugo will remain
that the Commune would make itself the highest personification of the nine-
visible and demonstrate its growing teenth century, the history of which, in
strength. The Ministry felt that there its contradictions, doubts, ideas, and
would be no manifestation, both because aspirations, was best reflected in his
it could have been instantly suppressed, works.
and because even the Anarchists had While the speeches were going on, down
decency and sense of consistency enough below, along the slopes of the Champs
to see that would be wrong to mani-
it, Fly sees, thousands of workmen and work-
fest at Hugo's funeral. women were driving a brisk trade in the
Those who were fortunate enough to leasing of ladders and the tops of
be in the immediate neighborhood of the wagons, chairs, improvised platforms,
Arch, and to look down upon the scene and other expedients for allowing the
of the official ceremony, found it verv late-comers to see over the heads of the
picturesque and entertaining. There more fortunate ones who had preceded
were the official delegations, accompanied them. Ambulating merchants sold sau-
by brilliant escorts of cuirassiers, the sages and beer, cider, wine, and brandy
generals and presidents who repre- to the thirsty and hungry, who had left
sented the military household of the their homes before dawn in order to be
President of the Republic, all the in time for the procession's passage.
officers of the Legion of Honor, the The lame and blind beggars sprawled
Ministry, the Diplomatic Corps, the upon the sidewalk the blue-bloused ;
workmen chatted and laughed ; and, in- were placed at its head. Thousands
deed, the whole mass of the populace upon thousands of school children, ar-
evidently regarded the day more as a ranged in what are called the school
celebration of Hugo's glory than as the battalions,and arrayed as soldiers and
sombre occasion of his funeral rites. sailors, and many thousands of the
This was well enough, for mourning was young men enrolled in the gymnastic
a week old, and the real demonstrations corps, were in the parade. There was
of grief on the part of the people were also a vast throng of Freemasons, and
sincere and voluminous enough when the military parade was quite large.
the news of the old poet's death was The Army of Paris, as (he corps of
first announced. It should not he for- 20,000 or30,000 men. all stationed here,
gotten, too, that the "people" meant to is was on duty. Thousands of
called,
manifest, and did it, on the whole, in a soldiers formed a. kind of living hedge
very intelligent fashion. to keep back the enthusiastic spectators ;
The funeral was a littlemore than other thousands headed the procession,
twice as large as that of Gambetta. and kept guard over the eleven great
The black masses of delegations which chariots heaped with flowers and
came into view in front of the Arch wreaths; and still other thousands
seemed endless. They were not very brought up the rear, the sparkling com-
entertaining, —
on the contrary, somewhat pany of infantry, cavalry, and artillery
monotonous ; but their numbers were being interspersed with many bands of
overpowering. The wreaths, crowns, music. At the corner of the Luxem-
inscriptions, beds and banks of flowers, bourg garden, where a statue of Victor
borne in the procession, are said to have Hugo has been erected, each group
cost about three millions of francs. In halted and the bands played a funeral
this show the hearse of Hugo was a march. All heads were bared when the
sombre spot. It was the same in which simple hearse passed. The steps of the
Jules Valles, the Communist, had short- Pantheon were covered yards high with
ly before been borne to his last abode flowers. By four o'clock the last word
Of the plainest description, even tin' had been said, and the body of Victor
humble ornaments which usually be- Hugo was borne to the vault in the crypt,
deck it were removed. Within the and laid to rest beside the tomb of
hearse was placed the coffin, draped with Rousseau.
a black cloth, and two laurel wreaths
—
CHAPTER NINETY-FIVE
Laborers for Peace. — The New Territories given to European Powers by the Congo Conference. —
Impossibility of Permanent Peace. — Believers in Arbitration. — M.De Lesseps and Mr. Stanley.
The United States of Europe. — Victor Hugo's Dream. —
Republican Sentiment. —
The Strengthen-
ing of the French Republic. — Will Storm and Calm Forever Alternate in Europe ?
ENTHUSIASTIC believers in the resistless, pushing forward of civilization

permanent peace in
possibility of into the troubled wilderness. Mr. Stan-
the world might derive some support for ley's story and his relation to the King
of the Belgians in their joint magnificent
enterprise are now well-known through-
out the world. As the result <>f the Congo
Congress, mentioned in a preceding
chapter, there has been a greater exten-
sion of European influence over African
territory than is generally supposed.
Mr. Stanley himself, in his terse and
excellent account of the Conference,
says :
'•
Two European powers emerge
out of the elaborate discussions, pro-
tracted for such a long period, with
enormously increased colonial posses-
sions. France is now mistress of a West
African territory, noble in its dimensions,
equal to the best tropic lands for its
vegetable productions, rich in mineral

resources, most promising for its future
commercial importance. In area it
covers a superficies of two hundred and

fifty-seven thousand square miles, equal
to that of France and England combined,
KING ii].' BELGIUM.
with access on the eastern side to five
thousand two hundred miles of river
their belief from the fact that so many navigation. On the west is a coast line
men in exalted station are engaged in nearly eight hundred miles long, washed
pacific enterprises, rather than in those of by the Atlantic Ocean. It contains within
conquest. They could point to the King of its borders eighl spacious river basins,
the Belgians as a conspicuous instance of and throughout all its broad surface of
one, who, aided by the ablest and wisest ninety millions of square hectares not
of lieutenants, has made what might one utterly destitute of worth can be
have been a sanguinary and reprehensi- found. Portugal issues out of the
ble conquest only a tranquil, although Congress with a coast line nine hundred
and ninety-five English miles in length, the territories surrendered to them by

three hundred and fifty-one thousand the Association have been consecrated
square statute miles in extent, a territory to free trade, which, along with those
larger than the combined areas of France, recognized as belonging to the Associa-
Belgium, Holland, and Great Britain. tion, and preordained for such uses, and
On LowerCongo, its river-bank is one
the those yet unclaimed by any power, but
hundred and three miles in length. It can still reserved for the same privileges,
now boast of healthy pastoral lands to the form a domain equal to one million
south, oil and rubber producing forests six hundred thousand square miles in
northward, mineral fields in the north- extent, throughout which most excep-
eastern portion of its territory, and val-
uable agricultural regions in its eastern

borders. If herown population were added
to the aboriginal population of this Afri-
can colonial and extended over
territory,
its area, therewould still be sufficient to
give thirty-two and three-fourths acres to
each Portuguese white and black subject.
Her home and colonial populations of all
colorsnumber in all eight million three

hundred thousand. The area of her terri-
tories in Africa, Asia, and the Oceans
:-:-»
measures seven hundred and forty-one
thousand three hundred and forty-three
square miles, or four hundred and seventy-
four million five hundred thousand acres,
— sufficient to give each subject fifty-
m
seven acres. Great Britain, on the other
hand, with all her vast acreage of five
billion fifty-six million of acres, can HENRY M. STANLEY.

only give to each of her two hundred and
forty-nine millions of people the small
portion of twenty and one-fourth acres. tional privileges have been secured by
The International Association surren- the cordial unanimity of the riveraine of
dered its claims to sixty thousand three the United States and European powers
hundred and sixty-six square miles of for commerce. With due reserve for the
territory to France, and to Portugal sovereign rights of Portugal and Zanzi-

forty-five thousand four hundred square bar, this free trade area extends across
miles, for which consideration six Africa to within one degree of the east
hundred square miles of the north bank coast, thus enlarging the privileged com-
between Boma and the sea were conceded mercial zone to two million four hundred
to it. besides cordial recognition of its thousand square miles."
remaining territorial rights from two The of these immense
acquisition
powerful neighbors. To the world at by France and by Portugal,
territories
large, the two powers above mentioned and the opening of the vast domain
have been also duly considerate, for of the Free State to the one country
844 EUROPE 7,V STORM AND CALM.
which could best profit by its opening, There is little need to remind the Amer-
to Great Britain, — all this is emi- ican reader that Mr. Gladstone is a firm
nently the work of Mr. Stanley, who has disciple of peace, and that in these
within less than fifteen years stepped hitter days he is not averse to leading
from the position of a roving special cor- up to the general adoption of the great
respondent to that of the first of modern principle of arbitration in international

explorers and a politician and diplomat disputes.
of no mean order. and capable politi-
All the intelligent
All the distinctly great men in Europe, cians in France want peace it is only ;
men of comprehensive vision and accu- the blustering and incompetent who
clamor for a war of vengeance, or who
would like to see France enter upon a
policy of adventure, in connection even
with the most illustrious allies. The
poets, the philosophers, the great build-
ers and engineers, men like the brilliant
and phenomenal De Lesseps, are all in
favor of peace, and the colossal vision
of the old French poet "the United —
States of Europe," of which he fondlv
dreamed while in his exile amid the
rocks of the Channel Islands, is often
enough talked of as the forerunner of a
possible reality. lint although kings
labor in peaceful channels, and dip-
lomats prepare war that they may main-
tain peace, — although they establish
formidable alliances to prevent the pos-
sibility of sudden declarations of war,
there is no man so wise and none so
daring in Europe as to prophesy that
M. DE LESSKPS.
the shadow of war may not fall across
the historic lands that Europe may not
;
rate knowledge, are anxious for peace. once more, ami almost without warning,
Bismarck himself wants peace, and be plunged into a period of storm just
means to compel it by demonstrating as she is beginning to appreciate the
the uselessness of undertaking to combat blessings of calm. Every European
the armies which he could bring to bear country is making great material prog-
against an intending enemy. Thiers, ress, striving towards higher levels of
even after the rude shock which his education, of industry, of scientific and
theories of the balance of power in artistic attainment: but every one lias
Europe had received in the Franco- some quarrel with its neighbor, or is in
German conflict, hoped that European some danger from surrounding nations.
peace might In' maintained, although None is completely at case. The fed-
in the very year of his death the conflict eration of which the poet sinus may
between Russia and Turkey was raging. scarcely be expected before the more
EUROPE W STORM AND CALM. 845
powerful of the great States have ab- things deceitful and desperately wicked,
sorbed such of the smaller States as they storm and calm must have alternate rule.
wish to absorb. The folly of an incapable monarch, the
Men like M. De Lesseps and Mr. precipitation of a prime minister, or the
Stanley, in the calm and steadfast con- energy of a merchant, — any one of
duet of their gigantic enterprises, do not these causes may plunge nations into
sowing the seeds of
reflect that they are the miseries of conflict, waste untold
possible conflict by opening up new millions, and ruin scores of thousands of
fields for commerce and new highways lives.
to these fields. When M. De Lesseps It is difficult to find, in the growth of

dug his canals through the sands of Republican sentiment in Europe, any
Egypt, in die face of the sneers of Palm- definite guarantee of peace. The French
erston, and indeed of uearly all Republic has been so busy with struggles
Englishmen of influence, he scarcely to maintain and assert its existence that
thought that he was awakening jealous- it has taken no thought of foreign war
ies which might endanger from time to further than to prepare against a second
time the friendly relations of France disastrous invasion of its eastern frontier.
and England, neighbor countries which If Germany should by some cataclysm
have every interest to remain at peace be transformed into a Republic, it must

with each other; and he has always of necessity be for long years to come a
persistently denied, when led to express military power, ambitious, and perhaps
an opinion with regard to his Panama more aggressive than the present Empire
enterprise, that there was the slightest has been. The slow unfolding of Re-
danger of a collision between European publican principles in many European
and American forces for the control of countries serves, in a certain way, to
the huge water-way connecting the At- promote European dissensions. It
lantic and Pacific oceans. Perhaps Mr. unites Catholic parties of different nation-
Stanley, now and then remembering the alities into one compact body, ready to
conflicts along the sandy shores of rise at the bidding of a capable leader
Florida and on the lower Mississippi against nations and peoples against
between European nations long ago. re- whom it would otherwise have no hos-
flects that France and Germany, or tility. There is no denying that the in-
Great Britain and competing European fluence of the Roman church is against
powers, may yet join battle beside the the rise of the people to power. " Gov-
waters of the Congo. Wherever trading ernment of the people, by the people,
interests begin to conflict, war follows and for the people," does not consist
with its devastating tread. There is with the secular claims of the Pope.
scarcely a war in the European calendar The unfriendliness of Church and State
since the beginning of the century which in France is notorious, and naturally in-
is not directly or indirectly due to some creases when the Commune rears its
difference about trade or to some deter- hateful head in the Assembly, or in the
mined effort to divert trade from one City Council of Paris, as it is doing of
channel to another. Europe sighs for late, or when
government secularizes
the
peace, but there is no peace so long as
; the Pantheon to bury Victor Hugo. The
interests are diverse, ambitions mani- maintenance by the Pope of his studied
fold, and the heart of man is above all pose as "the prisoner of the Vatican"
is nothing but a refusal to recognize that Germany, a power really hostile to many
the people have the supreme and ulti- of England's greatest interests abroad,
mate right to choose their own govern- simply because I hey wish support in their
ment. In Spain it is the clerical party opposition to the democratic programme

that retards the advance of the Republic, at home.
more than any love for monarchy. The There no space here to treat in
is
detail growth of the one European

the
Republic which has demonstrated its
right to live during the last few years.
Founded by its enemies in spite of them-
selves, and narrowly escaping .strangula-
tion in its cradle, the French Republic,
after numerous vicissitudes since 1*77,

has reached a point at which it is afraid
neither of resolute conservatives nor
half-crazed radicals. M. Thiers, who
had the reward of his great services
during the war and the German occupa-
tion in his accession to the presidency,
fell before the reactionists, but lived
long enough to feel that the Republic
would ultimately triumph. Marshal
MacMahon, who inaugurated the septen-
nial presidencies, doubtless acted ac-
cording to his lights while in the exalted
office. He was not strong enough,
KING OF SPAIN. however, to prevent the monstrous injus-

tice of the counter-revolution of 1877,
as it came to be known in European
young king is pursuing the only safe politics. This was a deliberate attempt
course for kings nowadays, living simply on the part of ministers hostile to the
and showing himself deeply concerned in Republic t<> inaugurate a state of terror-
the welfare of his people. ism which should render the reestablish-
Monarchical diplomats, while profess- inent of monarchy possible. In other
ing to look upon (he growth of Republi- words, the conservatives, who had been
can spirit with equanimity, are constantly growing bolder daily since the fall from
watching an opportunity to do the Re- power of Thiers, desired to provoke the
publican cause bad turn. It is not
:i Republicans into some breach of the
unreasonable to suppose that as this public peace, and then, setting up the
liberalism more intense and
becomes old civ of the necessity of order, gel a
wide-spread in Europe, conservatives who monarch in before Republican institutions

have heretofore held apart from each began to take root. The magnificent
other should lloek together for mutual prudence of lambetta under the greatest
(
support. At this moment the English provocation during this whole period of
Tories offer a line illustration of this repression added immensely to his repu-
particular fact, striving to cooperate with tation. It showed that he was well
qualified to take the lead in the moderate guished men from all parts of France
Republican party which was afterwards and of Europe, between lines of silent
admitted to be liis natural right. Even men and women, was a warning to the
Thiers was surprised to find Gambetta ministry in power that it could not turn
so much of a statesman as he proved in a nation aside from its convictions. A
that crisis. million of people on foot, in Paris on that
The Bonapartists were active, but not September day proclaimed their devotion
in the front of this conspiracy against to the Republican idea which Thiers
the Republic. The death of Napoleon had so frankly defended, after having
III., in 1873, in the sylvan
seclusion of Chiselhurst, in
England, removed the chief

pretender from the scene.
and but little fear was had
of the movements of his son,
who was cpiietly finishing his
education in an English mili-

tary academy.But no one
knows what party might have
come uppermost had a breach
of order been provoked and
the Republic destroyed in
1877. It was inexpressibly

sad that M. Thiers should
pass away when this cloud
of darkness was over the
country for which he had
done so much, —
sad that his
last days might not have
been cheered by the spectacle
THE END OF A ROMANCE. NAPOLEON III. ON niS
of a successful liberal govern- DEATH-HEP.
ment, like that to which he
frankly owned his own con-
version. The funeral of this great been, as he was wont to say, a monarch-
and good man, on the 8th of Sep- ist almost all his life. Paris, on that
tember, 1*77, was one of the most day, learned a lesson of self-control
striking spectacles that I ever wit- which has been very useful to it in
nessed. The Republican party intended many troublous times later on.
to make it a tremendous manifestation, No American reader who has not
but felt the necessity, in doing this, of lived in Europe can form any adequate
preventing, at all cost, any violence or idea of the pressure brought to bear
display of strong emotion, as this would upon Republicans during this year of
have afforded a pretext for the repression 1877 in France. The whole weight of
which was ready to hand. The dead prejudice, of the prestige of centuries
Thiers, followed to Pere La Chaise by of wealth, of established religion, was

thousands upon thousands of distin- brought to bear upon liberals; and the
burden was so grievous that at times vigor with which his face was filled. It
they could scarcely support it. Distin- was not a handsome face, nor yet an
guished orators and publicists were artistic or refined one; but a stranger
compelled to speak in little and ill- who had heard little of Gambetta, and
ventilated halls, to which none but their who had never seen him, would say, in
constituents were admitted, and these contemplating it. " This is the face of a
by ticket, in the old, stingy fashion in man of vast power, who would overcome
force under the Empire. Public meet- obstacles (insurmountable by other men,
ings in their broadest sense were un- who would not lie cast down in adversity;
known. Louis Blanc refused me a a man fertile in surprises, abounding in
ticket to one of his addresses before unexpecting triumphs, capable of turning
his constituents, saying, that if I were imminent danger into immediate victory."
recognized as a non-voter the conse- He will long be remembered as the pas-
quences for me and for the controllers of sionately eloquent lawyer, the defender of
the meeting- would lie most unpleasant. Baudin, the mighty tribune, the brilliant
When this final conservative effort was member of the opposition to the Second
at an end, and the weights were taken Empire, the ex-dictator, the fiery soul
from the Republic's breast, there was which could not brook the idea of tame
rapid progress for several years ; yetthe .submission even when all hope was lost,
almost, majestic programmes of men like the noble parliamentarian, the sincere
Gambetta \\fvi.' thwarted and even set Republican, the patriot, the admit and
aside because of the jealousies of inferior far-seeing Republican. He was the
men, the intrigues of churchmen and of fountain from which sprang the Re-
specialists. Gambetta had a tine political publican energy. There were moments
career as President of Chamber, in the when Hie entire Republican organization
which official position he was very power- of the country seemed epitomized in him.
ful but his enemies, after having crowded
; He was leader, teacher, master, father,
him out of the presidential chair and mentor.
forced him into the ministry, which he was commonly said in Germany,
It
did not wish to enter, merely that they afterGambetta and Skobeleff had both
might have the pleasure of compelling disappeared from the scene of European
him to leave it afterwards, made his action, that Prussia had been spared by
latter days unhappy. His death, which providential intervention in her behalf a
was caused by a pistol wound in one of tremendous campaign against her. It is
his hands at a time when his system was certain that General Skobeleff whose —
greatly enfeebled, would have been a brilliant young life was cut short by a
catastrophe for the Republic hail lie not swift stroke of fate in Moscow, where he
left behind him capable men who could was sojourning one of the intervals of
in
carry out the brilliant programme he his busy military career and Gambetta —
had sketched. lie left behind him not were both much in favor of a war against
only this noble plan, but an untarnished Germany a war the date for which was
;
reputation as an administrator in troub- by no means decided on a war which could ;
lous times. Looking at his picture the not be indefinitely postponed. Taken
night after his strong and earnest life between the millstones of Russia and
ended with the year 1882, I was proof France, some of the German peoples
foundly impressed with the abundant might possibly have been crushed.
;
EUROl'E IN STURM AND CALM. N4!l
After the death of the Prince Imperial, able that Jacobinism and anarchy were
as the English people still continue to scarcely represented at
all in the throng;
call the son of Napoleon III., the hopes and even Jacobins and anarchists who
of the Imperialist party in France fell to had the audacity to parade were com-
the ground. The young prince had had a pelled before they took part in the
good military training, and was a gallant procession to lay aside their flags and
soldier but his skill and zeal availed
; emblems. On day of Victor Hugo's
the
him nothing against the arrows of a few burial listeningEurope seemed to hear
naked South Africans, and he was brought a voice from the Pantheon pleaching, as
home to lie in the little chapel of St.
Mary's at Chiselhurst, to which the

Empress makes melancholy pilgrimages,
often mournfully alluding to it as the
shrine which holds the wreck of all her
earthly grandeur and her hopes. The
funeral of this young prince at Chisel-
hurst was a very remarkable affair. It
brought out the whole strength of the

English aristocracy, which adopted the
occasion as a kind of manifestation, even
the Queen coming to pay her last respects
to the son of Napoleon III. It was observ-
able, however, that there were but few
French people present, and scarcely any
who represented the highest genius or
intelligence of France.
The Republic goes steadily on its way
rejoicing, now and then in fear and
trembling, but never retreating, and its
PRESIDENT GRfeVY.
influence in Europe is wider than is
imagined by even the most enthusiastic
French Republican. Threatened men, it the poet had preached all his life long,
is and the downfall of

said, live loug ;
peace and good-will, fraternity of peoples,
the Republic has been predicted so often unity of action and of sentiment, the
by England, Germany, even Italy, by abolition of superstitions and formular-

Austria, by Spain, and by other powers isms, diffusion of education and of light,
too numerous to mention, that its longev- pardon, reconciliation, and hopeful
ity is now believed in. It had but one struggle towards the highest ideal. Eu-
victory to accomplish, — the victory over rope listened ; but will she take the
itself, over its follies and licenses, which words to heart? Will she not alternate
had been so conspicuous in the past from storm to calm, from calm to storm,
and when the huge pageant, greater than through the latter years of this century,
any ever before seen in Paris, poured as she has through its first and middle
through the Champs Elysees the other periods, putting away from her the noble
day, behind a simple hearse, in which the epoch of continuous peace and harmony
bodj' of the master poet of his time was which the venerable poet so boldly pro-
carried to the Pantheon, it was notice- claimed ?
.
INDEX
Austria, Religion in, 81.1.
Austrians, The, in Italy, 399.
Adam, M. Edmond, and the National Guard, 231. Avenue d'Italie, The prison in the, 497.
Agriculti rj in Roumania, 741.
Avenue de la Grande Armê, 144.
Alamenos, ieneral, 70. (
Am. ii Edward, Prince

i of Wales, Income of, 560.
— Influence of, .it home and abroad, 661.
Household of, 568.
Alcazar, The, History of, 118.
— Cathedral of the, 119.
— Gardens of the, 130. Baccaro, Dominique, 505.
— De San Juan, 123. Bailen, Duchess of. 95,
Alcott, in Paris during the Revolution, 488. Baker, Sir Samuel, in the Soudan, 825.
Alexander II., of Russia, Attempted assassination of , 26. Baldwin I., 776.
— Vis ;
t to Paris, 25. Balkans, The neighborhood of the, 766.
Alfonso XI I., King of Spain, 71). —
Through the, 772.
— Marriage of, 93, — The Russians in the, 783.
— At a Bull-fight, 103,
Banderillero, The (Bull-fighter), 106.
Alfonso the Good, 129. Bank of England, The, 616
\ i .i i
[A, Political prisoners in, 45. Barbiek, A., and the VendOme Column, 4C8.
Allard, The Abb6, Execution of, 4%. Barcelona, Description of, 85.
Alsatia demanded by the Germans, 272. — To Valencia, Journey from, 86.
Alsatians, The protest of, 388. Baroche's valor at Le Bourget, 324.
Alvaro Dk Luna, Don, 121, Barrett, Wilson, 630.
Amadei of Italy, 78. •
Bashi-bazouks, The, 756.

Ambulance Companies, during the Commune, 447. Hatpin, 136.
American Minister, The, in Paris during the Com- Bavaria, The monarchs of, 792-4.
mune, 444. —
The Royal Brewery in, 794,
Americans in Paris during the Commune, 431, 480. — Catholicism in, 795.
Andalusia, 125. I'.,\\ All a :; Si ii DIERS, 216.
Andrassy, 'mini, 672. t
Bayard, Statue of, 361.
Antonelli, .udin.il, and Leo XIII., 415. I
Bazaine, Marshal, and (ieneral Frossard, 202
Apennines, The, Tunnels through, 404, —
Retreat upon Metz, 'JU7.
*f
Appeal to the People," The, 44. —
In Metz during the siege, 310.
Apsley [i "-[ 631 1 ,
— Advice to his soldiers, 310.
Arabi Bey, Revolt of, 821. — His army at Metz, 316,
Aranjuez, 91 — Course at Metz criticised, 319,
Arbitration, The belii vers in, *44. i
eilles to Illy, Fmin, after the war, 257.
Arc de Triomphe, The, Statuary on, 451. Bi \> onsi ield, Lord, Policy .if, 592.
Archbishop oi Pari Arrest of, 446, .
— And the Home Rulers, 651.
Archer, Fred, in England and Paris 624. — And Mr. Gladstom , 663.
Argenteuil, View of Paris from, 334, — His career, 664
— Effect of the wai in, 382 — His books, 666.
Army of the Rhine, The, 321. — Personal description of, 668.
Art in Spain, 111 — Return from Berlin, 669,
\ 1. r-Si in 101 in 1 .midnn, 027. — At the Berlin Congress, 7m;.
Assam, John, 711, Beaumont, Battle in, 243.
A.SSI, Citizen, 449. Beaumont-Vassy, Vicomte de, 52.
Atocha Churi ir. 93, Belfast, 650.
A i hen vi m (
'] re of Barcelona, 86. Belgians, The King of the, 842.
Ai i-i ];, the composer, Reminiscences of, 467. Bei.lemare, General de, at Montretout, 3G8.
^ i mm, during the siege of Paris, 279. Belleville, Procession through, 499
Augier, Emile, at the funeral of V. Hugo, 840. — Episode during the fight at, 505.
Austria, The Emperor of Characteristics
, and simple life Benedetti, Count, and Bismarck, L53.
of, 813 —
Visit to Ring William, 168.
INDEX. 851
Benedict, Sir Julius, 627. Bucharest, Greek plays in, 740.

Berlin and Bismarck, 816. — And Jassy, The towns between, 743.
— Congress, The Representatives at, 786. Buckingham Palace, Memorials of, 056.
Its results, 790. Bulgaria, The Russians in, 748.
— Treaty, The, 786. — Imperial headquarters at Tzarevitza, 753.

Bergeret imprisoned, 455. — " Young Bulgaria " League, The, 763.
Berryer, M., Eloquence of, 145. — Insurrection of 1862, 763.
Biarritz, Description of, 58. — The Circassians 765. in,
Birmingham, its history, 640. — Villages of the Pomatzy, The, 768.

Bismarck, Count Von, at the Berlin Congress, 786. — Russian agents 764. in,
— In Paris during the Exposition of 1867, 28. — Schools of, 768.
— And Napoleon III., 152, — Passes 771-2.in,
— And Count Benedetti, 153, — Sketch of the history 775. of,

— In difficulty, 177. — Turkish rule and taxation 776-7. in,
— And the surrender of Napoleon III., 252. — The insane 777. in,
— Interview with Napoleon III., 255. Bulgarian atrocities, The, 672.
— And M. Jules Favre at Ferrieres, 270. — Men, 752.
— On the policy of France since Louis XIV., 271 — Peasants, 752.
— Personal characteristics of, 273. Bulgarians, The, in 1851, 763.
— On Napoleon III., 274. Bulgarian's views of the Bulgarian Question, 772.
— And General Boyer, 320. Bull-fighting in Madrid, 101-110.
— At the Coronation at Versailles, 365. Burgos Cathedral, 60.
— And the National Guards, 368. Burgoyne, Sir John, saves the Empress, 238.
— And Berlin, 816. Burnabv, Lieut. Col. Fred, Death of, 833.
— in Europe and what it may lead to,
His influence 819. Burns, Robert, The home of, 647.
Black Cabinet in the Post-office, Paris, 463. Bute, Marquis of, 571.
Black Hand, or, Mano Negra, Society of the, 125. Buttes Chaumont, The final struggle on the, 509.
Blanc, Louis, Speech in the Assembly at Bordeaux, 394. Buzenval, Battle at, 371.
Blanqui, Thirty years in prison. 474.
Blois, The Imperial Court at, 176.
Bois du Vesinet, French troops in, 369.
Bonaparte, Joseph, King of Spain, 55.

— Joseph, 126.
— Prince Pierre, 133.
C
Bondy, Ancient wood of, 349. Caesar, Augustus, 64.
— Massing of troops in, 350. Cafe" Americain, The, 471.
Bonim, General Von, at Nancy, 290. Cambridge, The Duke of, 567.
Bonnemain, General, Celebrated charge of, 199. Canal de L'Ourcq, 348.
l'"i :I>i:.\l \ AssEMIU.Y, Tile, MS.".. Canrobert, General, 213.
Bosnia, History of the insurrection in 1875, 669. Carlists, The, 56.
Boulogne, Burning of village of, 360. Caserne Lobau, Executions at the, 516.
Bourbaki and Belfort, 366. Castelar. Tour through Spain, 57.
Bourbon, Don Enrique do, 130. — Political career of, 78.
Bourbons in Spain, The fall of the, 67. — At home, 97.

Bradlaugh, Mr., in the Hall of Science, 600. — And the United States, 98.
— In London and Paris, 602. — As a leader, 99.
Brasseur's heroism, 324, — And Gambetta. 100.
Bridge of the Dead, 314, Catalanian People, The, 85.
Bright, John, at Birmingham, 578. Catholic ceremonial of marriage, 96.

— His opinion of Gladstone, 668. Cattaro, History of, 698.
Brighton, 529. Cattaro toTsetti'nje, Journey from, 697-699.
Brindisi and Naples, 403. Cavendish, Lord F., Assassination of, 654.
Broughton, George, 626. Cavour, Count, and the Austrians in Italy, 399.
Bry-sur-Marne, Battle at, .'141. Cespedes; poet, painter, etc., 124.
Browning, Robert, 634, Chamberlain, Joseph, and Sir Charles Dilke, 594.
Bucharest, The city of, 719. — In Parliament, 604,
— The plague in, 720. Chambers, Sir William, 545.
— Routes to, 7211-1. Chambord, Comte de, Protest of, 34.
— And New Orleans, 721. Champigny, Battle at, 341.
— Notes on, 723. — The country around after the battle, 346.
— Legends of the Capital, 720. Champ db Mars, Execution on the, 490.
— The Podan Mogosoi", 723. Champs Elysees, Communists in, 443.
— The priests 726. in, Changarnier, General, Plot of, 12.
— The Metropolitan Church, 727. — Visit to Friederich Karl, 316.
— Spiridion the New, 727.
St. — Appeals for peace, 394.
— Evidences of Turkish rule 733. in, Chapel of "The new Kings," The, 122.
;
852 INDEX.
Charles IV., 55. Communist Prisoners, Massacre of, 514.
Chase, The, in France, 32. t ommi msts. The, during the siege of Paris, 303.
hateau d'Eau, The baitle
l. at the, 500. — And the landlords, 43T>.
The retreat ii 505. ,

— At the funeral of V. Hugo, 840.
— of Frascati, The, 316 — Methods of tiring houses, 4s."..
Chateaudun, Heroic defense of, 307. Compiegne, Imperial Court at, 31.
Chatillon, The fight at, 266. — In tlie tune of Louis Philippe, 31.
t ii a i swi »B mi, 641. — Emperor and Empress to,
Visit of the 37.
Chaucer, hi Fleet Street, 610. — Amusements of the Court at, 38,
Chaudey, Gustave, Murder of, 498. — The programme of the season at, 38,
Chei les, Abbey of, 349. — Visit of the King of Prussia to, 151.
( in .iky, .Mr., editor uf the "Times," o'l8. Com it de I.abokue, The, 125.
Children of London and Paris, The, 521. CoN< [ERGERIE, The noted prison of the, 494.
Chiswick, Historic scenes in, 543. t •

'. de* Prince of, 1 1::
,
— IIivinrii.il events in, 543. (

ONCO 'ONGRESS, The result of the, .S42.
(
Choisy-lb-Roi, after the war, Scenes in, 384. able of Castile, 121.
C< iNSl
Christina, Archduchess, 94. Constantinople, General Gourko's descent upon, 784
Christmas in War Time, 354. The Turk in, 188
Church and State in Spain, 79. Conti, M ,atthe Bordeaux Assembly. Exciting scenes, 392.
— of La Trinite", The fight around, 488. Convent of h m salem, 66,
— i if Sain i -I .aure mi , 504, ' .i.isi.f- Paris, Invasion of the, 4l'.u.
—San Juan l>e uis Reyes, The, l'1'l,

OF Corps Legisi atif in 1852, 140.
—
of the Virgin del Pilar, The, 64. Invasion of the, 231
Cid \mpeador, 101.< ( i
iri ii i\ a, The city of, 124.
i [ssv, * leneral, 501, CoRBEIL, The Prussians in, 207.
City of Pleasure, The, 719. Cortes, Palace of the, 112.
Civita Vecchia, French expedition to, 401, < !oi Ni ii "i- S Ai i e, Palace of the, 493.
Clam art Railway Station, The fight £or, 459. G tup ii*Etat, The, 4:;.
Clarenton Barricade, The, 508, — Arrest of the deputies, 44.

i i aii mi, M. Jules, on the Germans, 184. — Horrors of tin.-, 45-6.
Clinchant, General, at Montmartre, 4^, Cour des Comptes, Palace of the, 493.
— Attack on the Chateau d'Eau, 501. CoURBET, iustave, member of the Communal I Council, 475.
Clothilde, Princess, and the Empress, 38. Courtney, Mr 589 ,
' ololirl, 736.

Cluseret, General, at the head of the insurrection, 44(1, 448. ( il
l \ ,
t
— At the head, etc , 448. Covent < Iardens, The clubs in, 633,
— At Fort [ssy, 455. Cram , Sii 1 1

an< is, •"44.
— Arrest of, 455. CREIL, Scenes in, 432.

— Trial of, 474, Cromwell, Oliver, at Hampton Court, 550.
— Escapes to Constantinople, 503, ( !rown Prince of Prussia, The, and Steinmetz, 203.
Coblentz, Troops in, 185. At the Coronation at Versailles, 365.
Con MBI S,
(
'hristophei , 123. Crown Prince's Redoubt, The, 378.
Commission of Assassins, The, 517. Crystal Palace, The, 544.
Communal Troops, The, 132. Cuke of the Madeleine, Arrest of, 446.
—
Journalism, Notes on, 438 Curious Photograph, A, 518.
—
Instrui rioN Commission, Visit to, 449,
Commune, The, Commencement of, 54.
— First action of, 221.
— Hard at work, 224,
— Outbreak of the, (26
— Declaration of the, 434.
D
— Famous dei ree of, (37. I >ai matia. The enr-.t of, 676.
— The hostages decree, 445. Dampierre, General, l'eath of, 304.
— The fete oi th. 136 .
Danube, rhi scenery of, 703-705.
I lit inipoi i. mi battle, 437. \ storm on, 706.
— A grand review . 450. — Jypsies on, 7n7.
<
— Armistice, 153 — Wayside inns along the, 712.

— Touching episode during, 452. Dae ii v. Archbishop, Execution of. 496
— The declamatory period, 4.~.7.
DeaUVILLE, Arrival of the Empress at, L'37.
— The cumhat southern at tin.' forts, 4.~x. De Iaii i.v, General, at Beaumont, 242.
— Suppresses the newspapers, 463 Di E] ry, The Abbe, Execution of, 196.
— Journal of, 164, Delescli ze and the Communists, 456.

— And tic Established Church, 465. — l'eath of, 502.
— Measures againsi social vices, 471. De Lesseps M ,
and H. M. Stanley, S44.
— Decree of the Committee "f Public Safety, 473. Democrai v in England, 591, 595.
—
The members of the, 17.". —
Aims of, 596
Communist Soldiers at Levallois, 461. Derby, At the, 623,
.
INDEX. 853
Derby Day, Scenes on the road, 624. England, The white cliffs of, 530.
— Earl, 571. — Plain speaking 591. in,
Derbyshire, Rural beauty in, 639, — Radicalism 591, 595.in,
Devonshire, Duke of, 592. — Sources of revenue 594. in,
De Wimpffen, General, Arrival at Metz, 244. — The coming struggle, 597.

— Character of, 24-".. — Public meetings 604. in,
— As General-in-Chief, 246. — Fox-hunting 636. in,
— Letter to Napoleon III., 248. — Tenant farmers 636. in,
— Quarrel with Ducrot, 251. — Rural beauty of, 638.

— And Bismarck, 252. — The Lake Country, 612.
D'Hbrisson, Count. Account of the flight of the Em- — And the Russo-Turkish War, 784.
press, 235. England's Soudan Campaign, 821-835.
" Diana," The, 93. English Channel, The, 527.
Dickens, Charles, as an after-dinner speaker, 544. — Seaside resorts, 529.
Dieppe, The Germans at, 527. — Royalty, charges which it entails, 559.
DlLKE, Sir Charles, at home and abroad, 594. — Painters, 626.
Dimitriowski and General Radetzky, 758. — Manners and dress, 629.
Dogs, in the East, 711. — Army in 1878, Efficiency of, 786.
Dombrowski, General, sketch of his career, 454. — Royal Family Queen Victoria, : 553.
— Death of, 483. Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, 561.
— His seven hundred horsemen, 484. Princess of Wales, 561.
Dominican Brothers, Massacre of the, 497. Prince Edward, MI"..
Don Carlos, 56. Duke of Edinburgh, 566.

Don Emilio, 90. — Princess Louise, 566.
Dore in London, 538. — Duke of Connaught, 566.
Douay, General, at Weissenburg, 192. Duke of Albany, 566.
— In the Faubourg du Temple, 509. — Duke of Cambridge, 567.
Douchan, Stephen, 671. Epernay, before and after the war, lst)3.
Dragimiroff, General, Personal description of, 758. Epinai after the war, 382.
Drenkova, Gypsies at, 713. Episode in the Franco-German War, 382.
Dublin and its chief features, 658. Epitaph on Frederick, Prince of Wales, 563.
— The environs of, 660. Epoch of Unification, The, 148.
— And Liverpool, 662. Escott's England, Extracts from, 577,583.
Ducamp, Maxime, Criticism of, 465. Escurial, The great vault of the, 62.
— And M. Thiers, 512. Eski Zaghra, Destruction and massacre in, 773.
Ducrot, General, in Strasbourg, 170. Eudes, General, at the burning of Paris, 492.
— Tactics of, criticised, 247. — Madame, 4!»4.
— Escape of, 322, Eugenie, Empress, and the war, 177.

— At Champigny, 341. — Flight of, 235.
Duffbrin, Lord, 651. — Dangerous passage across the Channel, 238.
Dupin, M. and Napoleon III., 33. — Arrivalin London, 238.
Duval, Death of, 437. — Despatch of, to Napoleon III., 239.

— Wardrobe of, 239.
— Library of, 262.
Evans, Dr., and the Empress Eugenie, 236.
E Exiles, The, Return of, to France, ut>l
Earle, General, in Egypt, 833. Expiatory Chapel, The destruction of, 472.
Eastern Question in 1875, 669.

Ecumenical Council at Rome, The, 410.
Edinburgh, old and new, Memorials of, 645.
Edward, Prince, 565.
F
Egypt, Battle at Tel-el-Kebir, 822. Faidherbe, General, at St. Quentin, 366.
— The El Mahdi. 823 Failly, General de, 183.
— Battles El Obeid Hicks Pasha and his
at ; 824. force, Faubourg St. Honore, The destruction on the, 49L
— The Mudir of Dongola Bombardment of Berber, 832.
; Favre, Jules, in the Corps Legislatif, 143.
— Abu-Klea, 833. — And Count Bismarck, 146.
— The battle Metemneh
at of Khartoum, 834. ; Fall — And 220.
Ollivier,
Egyptian War, The origin (if, 821. — Speech and motion of, 224,
El Gebir, 128. — And Bismarck Ferrieres, 270.

at
Eliot, George, 641 — Impressions of Bismarck, 273.
Elizabeth, Queen, at Windsor Castle, 552. — Conclusion of the interview with Bismarck, 273.
ELSASSHAUSEN to Morsbronn, 199, — Account of the insurreclion in Paris, 326,
Elys£e, The, Palace of the, 4:;. — Letter to Gambett.i. 340,
Enghien, Battle near, 336. — Mission to Versailles, 373.
England and the food supply, 525. — And Bismarck at Versailles, 374.
— Its fortifications, 528. — Speech at the Bordeaux Assembly, 387.
.
854 INDEX.
Ferdinand II, 128, George III., and his Court at Windsor, 554.
Ferdinand VI 1 ,
r>.~>.
. German Army, The, in ls7i>, 1st;.
Ferke;, Theophile, Extract from letter of, 466. — — The, in the North, 366.
Fekrieres, Journey of M. Jules Favre to, 270, — Military discipline, 218,
Fekrv, Jules, election in 1869, 141. — < Hitposts, how fortified, 348.
— And the insurrection In Paris, 325. — Soldiers in Paris, 426.
Figaro, I he, 50 Germany, The Passion Play in, 795.
Financial Ki-h irm League, 1 he (London), 599. — Its position in Europe, sl7.
1'rzHERBERT, Mrs r>4s,
i , .
— Industrial triumph of, 817.
] i
i , M and the visit of Alexander II. to Paris, 25. — In Africa, sis.
— At tli" obsequies of V. Hugo, 840. Girard, Mr., account "f the execution of Archbishop
Flourens, Gustave, Failure and flight of, 163. Darboy, 496.
— Heads the insurrection, 326, Girardin, M. Emile de, 511.
— Death of, 437. Glenn, Mr., in Paris during the Commune, 516,
Forster, W, m^\ the [rish Question,
I' , 653. Gladstone, W. E-, and the Irish question, 652
Fort Issi . 360 — And Lord Beaconsheld's policy of empire and 1'berty,
During tlie Revolution, 458 663.

France during the Second Empire, L'l-54. — His career, 664.
— Danger "I riots in, in IsTu, 158. — As a statesman, t.iiit'..
— The " tribune," 150. — In and out of Parliament, 668.

— Events in, 1870, Hi."-. — Personal description of, 668.
— Policy of, since Louis XIV., 271. — On the Turkish government, 673,
— Funerals in , 838. — Ministry, The, and the creation of peers, 581.
— And tin- result of the Congo (.'(inference, 842. Glasgow, its commerce and its antiquities, 643.
Franco-German War, The. 165-384 —
The water supply of, 648.
Frankfort, Wounded soldiers at, 216. Goblet, M at the obsequies of V. Hugo,
. 840.
I- ren< h Empire The, 132-136 in 1869, Gonhsse. The guard at, 347,
— Imperial press law and stamp tax, 138. t iOLDS< HMIDT, .Mr., 6*27.
— Chamber, opening ceremonies, Hu i '••

ilesc o, Constantme, 7;'.7.
— Army, condition of the, in lsTn, 171'. Gordon, C. G., General, as Governor-General of the
— And Prussian histoi v. Ireal vents i • in, 318. Soudan, 824-826.
— And German soldiers compared, i'.ii*. — And King Leopold, 826,
Friends of Irder, The, 428. ' — In Khartoum, Sl'7.
Froshweiler, The village of, 198. — Despatches to Sir F. Baring, 828, 830.
— Extracts from diary, sl'u.
— AndZebehr Pasha, 830.

— Extracts from letters of, B32,
G — Death of, 834.
Gabrova, fight near. T

t
"> 4
— Relief expedition, The, 830.
—
The town of, 766-7, Gorny Studfn, The Russian emperor at, 7SO-2.
— Schools of, in 1871, 768 t lORTSi HAKOFF, Prince, 732.
— Convent foi women near, 771. — At the Berlin Congress, 786.
Gai.atz, 744 Government of National Defense, Proclamation of, 367.
Gali iffet, Marquis de, and the deserters, 511. — —— Proclamation of, at the end of the siege of Pans,
Gamisetta and Castelar, ri7, , 100, 375.
— And the Baudin subscription, L36 GoORKO, < ieneral, expedition of. into the Balkans, 78U-4.
— And the Reveil Journal, 136 Graham, General, in Egypt, 828,

— Head of the " [rret on< ilables," 138. GRAMONT, Duke- de, 167.
— In the Corps L^gislatif, Hi'. Ckam' Docks of Paris, The, in flames, 400.
— And M Thiers' project, 230. CiRAVBF.ND, Historical souvenirs of, 534,
— And the invasion of the Corps Legislatif, 231, Great Commercial Highway, The, 531,
— Voyage in a balli ,
304. Great Funerals, 439.
— Slanderous accusation against, 328. Grebzi, The village of, 685.
— Work in the South, 328 —

The rebel army in, 677.
— Death of, 848. Greeks in Roumania, 740.
Garibaldi at Bordeaux, 386, — In Tirnova, 761
—
His influence at Bordeaux, 396 Greelev, Horace, 50.
—
And his famous " Thousand," 400. Greenhithf, 534
Garnier- Pages, 167 Greenwich, 533.
GarRICK at Hampton Court, 540 —
Historic stems in. 534,
Gasparin, M. Agenor de, at Belleville, 174. — Hospital. 534

Gate of the Sun, The (Puerta del Sol), 122. Gresham, Sir Thomas, 615.
Genoa, Duke of, Princt* of the House of Savoy, 58. Grew, M. Jules, President of the Assembly at Bordeaux,
Germersheim, On the road to, 101 388.
— Description of, 196. Grosvenor Gallery, The, 627.
George II., 564. — House, 631.

INDEX. 855
Grotto of Hercules, 116.

Hugo, Victor, Obsequies of, 839.
Grousset, M.Pascal, and the Commune, 461.

— —-A retrospection, s4k,
— Sentence and escape of, 518.

What he preached, 849.
Grove, Sir George, 627.
Humbert, King, and Queen Margherita, 414.
Guildhall, 606.
Hungarian Crown, The chapel of the, 708.
Guillotines, Burning of the, 438. Hungary, Craiova, 711.
— Features 709. of,
— Orsova, 704-9.
— Mehadia, 709.
H — The Tsiganes, 710.
Halle, Charles, in London, 627.
— The dogs of Orsova, 710.
Hyde Park, scenes in, 631.
Hamilton, Duke of, 571.
Hammersmith, Historical events in, 542.
Hampton Court, its history, 549.
The tapestries of, 550.
Hangerli, Constantine, Assassination of, 728.
Ignatieff, General, 732.
Hapsburgs, The, 96. Industrial Exhibition in Milan and Turin, 404.
Hartington, The Marquis of, 593. Inquisition, The, 130.
Hastings, 529. Institution of the Holy Cross, The, 452.
Hatton, on the future of Birmingham, 640. International Association, The, 843.
Henrv II. before Metz, 318. Of workingmen, The objects of, 51.
Henry III. and the Protestant Montbrun, 812. Letter of, 175.
Herzegovina, a day with a voivoda, 677. — Boat-race at Putney, 540, 542.
— History of the insurrection in, 1875, 669. Internationale, The Origin of, 52.
— Among the rocks of, 675. — Programme of, 52-53.
— Journey from Ragusa to, 676. — Influence of, in Spain, 55.
— Tomo, the guide, 680. — Movement of, in 1870, 174.
— Peko Pavlovic, 683. Invisible Court, The, of England, 568-569.
— Council of war, 686. Ireland, The Land League, 652.
Herzei.ovinan Warriors, 685. — The Coercion Act, 652.
Holland, Charles, at Chiswick, 543. — The Crimes Bill, 654.
Horse-racing, Scenes at Epsom, 623. — The land agitation in, 651.
Famous Jockeys, 624. — Crimes 654. in,
The Ascot and the Oak, 626. — "The Invincibles," 654.
Hotel des Invalides, Invasion of, 425. — A Land League mass meeting, 656.
Hotel de Ville, The procession to the, 234. — The wild and savage peasantry 657. of,
Communists in, 428. — Dublin Castle, 658.
During the Commune, 448. — Trinity College, 659.
— — The burning of, 486, 500. — Patrick's Cathedral, 659.
St.
Ruins of, 504. — Phcenix Park, 660.
House of Commons, Aristocratic element in, 570. — Queenstown harbor, 660, 662.
The Speaker, 577. Irving Henry, 629.
The Irish members in the, 587. Irun to Burgos, Description of journey from, 60.
The procedure in, 583. Isabel, Queen, 56, 94.
A conscientious member, 583. Italian Army and Navy, The, 406.
The Treasury Whip ; Parliamentary forms, 585. — War-ships, 407.
Oddities of, 586.
Italy, and France, 148.
English representation in, 587. — Upgrowth of her nationality, 399.
Anomalies of English representation, 687, — Alliance of Prussia and, 097.
Reform of, and the redistribution bill, 588. — From Julius to Pius VI. 398.
II. ,
House of Lords, The throne, 576. — And Prussia, Campaign 400. of,
The Lord Chancellor, 577. — Beggars 404. in,
The procedure in the, 578. — The engineer
civil 404. in,
Additions since 1859. 582. — Railways 404. in,
Offices disposed of by, 595. — Painting in, 40."..
Hugo, Charles, Funeral of, 427. — Agricultural progress in, I 1

5-6.
— Victor, and the Imperialist cause, 44. — Education 400. in,
— — In Spain, 55. — The struggle between Church and State, 407.
Return from exile, 261. — * ivil list of the king of, 414.
—— Speech in the Bordeaux Assembly, 393. — Prophecies of the Catholics in, 4i"4.
—— And the Vendome Column, 468.
On the death of Captain Harvey, 532.
— — And the English Channel, 631.
Protest against capital punishment, 836.
Religion of, 837. Jacobins, The, at the funeral of Victor Hugo, 840.
Verses of, on Napoleon TIL ; Death of, 836. Jageks, The, at Montretowt, 366
85(3 INDEX.
Jassy, Impressions of, 741. Loire Army, The defeat of, 345.
— The Russians in; "The Three Hierarchs," 742, Lombards', Napoleon III. in, ''•'.»*.
— Saint Nicholas, 742, London and Paris Compared, 519,

Jai mont Quarries, Story of the, 214. Mutual respect between, 526.
Jehome, King, ;'•".
— Drinking customs in, 525,
Jesui es, The expulsion of, from Spain, 57. — The port of, 537
Joan of Arc, 31. — The docks and their revenue ; Bridge, 538.
Ji ihn 1 1 , King, 121, — Somerset House, 539,
Johnson, Dr., house in Fleet street, oil). — Irishmen in, os7
Jourde, 4:;:; — Municipal reform, 589.
— The land owners of, 590.
— Public-houses in, 599,
K — The Hall of Science, 600.
Kaisfrslautern, Adventures in, 192,
— The Metropolitan Tabernacle, 599.
KARA-I rEORGE, 70S
— The Lord Mayor, 604-607.
Karl, Prince Friedrich, Field equipage of, 187.
— The Recorder; The Mansion House, 60S,
On the road to Metz, 203.

— Guildhall, 606,
In front of Metz, 310

— Lord Mayor's Day in The City Companies, 606. ;
Kean, Edmund, 548.

— City man, The Temple Bar and Memorial, 609. ;
Keller, M., at the Bordeaux Assembly, 388.

— Fleet street and historical memories, 610. its
Kehl, German batteries at, 279.

— Lincoln's Inn, 610.
— Destruction of, 281.
— Paul's Paternoster Row, 612.
St. ;
Kensington Gardens, 559.

— Lombard street, 613.
—
Palace, An episode of, 558.
— Americans 614. in,
Kew, and Kew lardens, 545.

— The Royal Kxchange, 615.
Kezanlik, Turks and Bulgarians
<
in, 772.
— The City of; Bank of England, 616.
— Tradition 77:;
— Christ's Hospital, 616. '
Knk.ht of La Mancha,
<>f,
114.
— The Charter House " The Times," 617. ;
— The smoke and 619. dirt of,

— The Royal Academy, 626.
— The Philharmonic Society, 627.
— Seasons, The, 620, 629.
La Roquettb, Visit to the prison of, 160. — Theatre, The Rotten Row, 630. ;
—— Prison, Executions in, 4!>7

— Some noble houses in, 631.
La Vii lette, The Communists in, 499. — The clubs of, 633.
LaboIk h&re, Mr. , r>94. — The Strand, 6;t5.
—
And Mr Bradlaugh, 602. — Book publishers, 612.
Lambe ii, 539, i Longchamps, The C.erman parade on, 425.
Land Tax, The, of Creat Britain, 596, Li mi-. 1 , of Bavai ia, 792.
Landau, A visit t<., 190, Louis II., of Bavaria, 793.
Lang lois, of Paris, Screams f>>r vengeance, 392. Louis XII , Chateau of, at Maisons Lafntte, 333.
Landwehrsmen, The, in Versailles, 354. Lot i XIV , 190.
Landsdowne, Marquis of, and the Cordon Relief Expedi- — Palace of, at Versailles, 358.
tion, 831. James Russell, 98.

L<>wi-:i,l,
Law Students in England, 611. Luxembourg Affair, The, 153.

Laws. i-;, Sir Wilfred, 623 — Panic, The, 29.
Le Bceuf, Marshal, Failure of plan of, 181, — Palace, The, 494.
l.i' Bourget, Desperate battles at, 323.
Le om ir, General, Assassination of, 428.
< '
Le Franc, M., at the Bordeaux Assembly, 391.

Saragossa, >*
-i-i.
M
i- >.
I i <
>t
— I if the Church of Mih.nl Voda, 728.

— Of the Kapa, 695 MacC'fahan', Mr., in Bulgaria, 672.
I .i:..! .! is, of Bucharest, 720. — Account of the attack on Plevna, 7S0.
Leigh ri in, Sii Fredei U k, 626 M.m Mahon, Marshal, Character of, Is4.
Leo XIII Personal appearance and character , of, 416. — At Woerth; Defeal of, 199
Daily Life of, 416-421. — In action, 201,
Founds an academy, 423 — At Chalons, 205.
Leopoi o, Prim e, and the Spanish throne, 166. — Telegr.iin 211 of,
— < >f Hohenzollern, 365 — hsaster 246
I lo,
Levallois, during the revolution, 459. — And the Republic, 846.

Liverpool, Wealth and poverty "I, 662, Madrid, First impressions of, 64.
Livron, it v i>£, 82. ( — And its gloom, 92.
Livry, Industry '>f the soldiers in, 349. — Bull-fighting in, 101.
Ljubi im \in . Voivi ida, 678, — Museum of Painting in, 111.
Li.' >\ d*s, 616. — Noted tapestries in ; Public buildings of, 112
INDEX. 857
Magnan, Marshal, 35. Montijo, Mdlle. Eugenie de, 32; And Napoleon III., 33.
Magnet, Citizen, 441). Montmartre, 426; The defense of, 482.

" Maiden's Tower," The, 31. Montmedy, Bravery of a French officer at, 341,
Maison aux Piliers, 505. Montmorency, The town of, 335.
Maison de la Revolution, The, 142. Montpensier, Duke de, 130.
Malesherbes Fight, The, 481. Montretout, The assault at, 30k-:;6'.i
Mano Negra, The society of the, 125. Moorish Victories over the Goths, Legend of the, 115.
Marlborough House, 562. Mortlake, Historical events in, 544.
Marseillaise Journal, The, 1.3.1. Moselle, Fort, 308.
Marseilles, Wealth and resources of, 83. Mount St. Nicholas, 769.
— Plague of, 1720-21, 84. Munich, The city and people of, 792.
Marx, Karl, 52. — The museums and statue of, 793.
Matador, The (bull killer), 107. Murillo, 130.
Mathilde, Princess, and marriage of Napoleon III., 37. Museum of Painting, in Strasbourg, Destruction of 284.
,
— Retreat of, at St. Gratien, 337. Museum of the Prado, in Madrid, The, 111.
Maupas, M. de, 45. Music, in London, 627.
Maximilian, Execution of, 29.
Mayence, Military scenes in, 186.
Mazas Prison, 497.

Mazzini and the Italian war of Independence, 398.
N
— Funeral of, 412. Nancy, comical incident in ; Story of the capture of, 291.
— Letter of, on the Insurrection, 512. Napias-Piquet, and the burning of important-papers, 506.
Mediterranean, Journey to the, 67. Napier, Lord, 96.

Megy, General, at the burning of Paris, 492. NAPLES„The portoj 403 , ; Railways in, 404.
Merimee, M-., and M. Thiers, 223. Napoleon, Prince, and Rachel, 38.
Metropolitan Church, The (Seville), 128. Napoleon, Prince Louis, as President of the French Re-
Metropolitan Tabernacle, The, 599. public, 40.
Metternich, Princess de, 37. Napolbon III. and his Court, 22 ; Marriage of 34 , ; Pro-
— Prince de, and the Empress Eugenie, 236. claimed Emperor, 48; Futile efforts for reform, 49;
Metz, in 1870, 169. And his ministers, 138; Speeches of, 142; Senate
— Great battles in front of, and around, 203-213. of, 149; And the King of Prussia, 151 ; Intrigue of,
— Condition of the French troops in, 205. 152 ; Departure for the war, 174 ; At Saarbruck, 204 ;
— Bazaine's retreat upon, 207. Taken prisoner, 222; At Sedan, 245; At home, 235.
— Road to, 209; Environs and history of, 308-310. Surrender of, 250; Departure from Sedan, 254;
— German losses outside, 311. Journey of, through Belgium, 258; A prisoner at
— Diversions of German soldiers during the siege of, 312. Wilhelmshohe, 258; Library of, 262; And the alli-
— Within and without during the siege, 313. ance of Italy with Prussia, 397; Policy in Italy, 398;
— Poisoning the wells around, 314. Espouses the cause of Piedmont, 399; And Pius
— Surrender of, 317; Events after the surrender of, 318. IX., 400; Death of, 847.
Mexico, End of the French expedition in, 28. Napoleon's Column, 527.
Mezquita, The mosque of the, 125. National Assembly, The, and the Imperialists, 42.
Michel, General, 170. National Guard, The, at Montretout, 370 Discipline of, ;
" Midi " (Southern France), 82. 426 And the Communists, 426.
:
Midhat Pasha, as Governor of Bulgaria, 763. National Guard Mobile, The, 171; Origin of, 227;
Milan, Prince, 672-3. After the surrender of Strasbourg, 2*7.
Millais, John, 626; In Scotland, 649. Neuilly, Fighting on the road to, 441.
Milliere, Execution of, 516. — Thrilling tales of the destruction at, 451.
Milton, John, and the origin of Paradise Lost, 798. Neutral Zone, The, 377.
Ministry of Finance, The burning uf, 491. Nby, Count Edgar, 36.
Miot, M.,497. Niamtzo, The monasteries of, 746.
Mirabeau, Speech of, 505. Nice, ceded to the French, 399.

Mirsky, Prince, 769. Nicholas, Grand Duke, Character of, 754.
Moltke, Von, and the German armies, 178. — Entry into Tirnova, 760.
— Journeys before the war, 182; And De Wimpffen, 253. Nicholas L, Prince, 697.
— Saves his papers, 306; In Versailles, 330, 365. Niel, Marshal, Reform law of, 171.
Mont Avron, 360. Night of fires, The. 4*r.

Mont Cenis Tunnel, The, 403. Noir, Victor, Assassination of, 133.
Mont Valerien, Story of, 332 North Sf_a Coast, The, 528
Montenegrin, Manners and customs of the, 692. Northumberland, Duke of, 571.
Montenegrins, A type of the, 688, 692. Notes from the diary of a French writer, 514-515.
— The Moslems, 691.
Montenegro, History and legend of, 670-1 ; The army
Costumes Legend Kapa,
of, 693; in, 694;
695; Peter IL, Danilo, 695; Nicholas L, 696-7
of the
; Its
o
situation, 689; Its boundaries, 690; The conscript Ober-Ammergau, The Passion Play in, 796.
fathers, 700 ; The monastery of Ostrog, 700. Old London, 520.

858 INDEX.
Ollivier, Emile, and the Imperialists, 24, 113. Passion Play, Representation of :—
— Declaration of, 166. Part I.— The fall of man, 799; Christ in the Temple,
— Conversation with a political friend, 178. 800; the Sanhedrim scene, 802, 805; the Lord's
— Defeat of ministry of, 220. Supper, 804; the betrayal, 805 ; the scene in Geth-
Okolowicz, The brothel . U57 semane, 806.

Ombla, Pictures in, 676. Part II.— The scene before Annas, 807; Peter's de-
Omnibuses in Madrid, 91. nial, 808; Suicide of Judas, 808; Christ before
( Orders 1 >ay in Versailles, 365, Pilate, 809; the bearing of the Cross to Golgotha,
Orleans Exiles, The, and their English home, 549. and the Crucifixion, 810.
Orsova, Scenery in, 704 Railways in, 709. ;

Pavia, I leneral, 70.
Osman Pasha, at Loftscha, 765; At Plevna, 782. Peabody, George, in London, 532.
Our Lady of Seven Sorrows, Hospital of, 452. Peko Pavlovic and Ljubibratic, 684.
" Our Lady of the Pillar," Legend of, 05. Pensions in England, Ancient and hereditary, 566-568.
Pbre Jean, his opinion of Napoleon III 295. ,
The story of, 295.

Pere la Chaise, Cemetery of, 496; Massacre in, 508.
Perez, A-lonzo, l)eath of, 121,
Painters and Painting in Italy. 4(15. Pest, 815.
Painting, Museum of, in Madrid, 111. Peter II , 695.

I' \ i \. e of 1
1
i v E, The burning of, 507. Peter's Pence, 422.

Palais Boi rbon, Description of, 142 ; Invasions of, 143, Petion, Mayor, of Paris, 135.
Palais de l'Industrie, 447. Petit Journal of Paris, 139.
Palais Royal, Heart-rending scenes around, 491, IV: r< ileuses, The, 487.
i
Palais Royal Company, The, 39 Pfalz, Journey into the, 188.

Palatinate, Troops in the, 190. Philip II., the terrible, 63.
Palikao, General, Count de, Ministry of, 220. Pictures of the Commune, 444.
— Project of, 230 — Old Masters, The, 111-112.
Palmerston, Lady, Receptions of, 632. Piedmont, The Austrians in, 399.
— Lord, at Compiegne, 37. Pietri, Imperial Prefect of Police, 226.
Pantheon, The, 414 Of the Spanish kings, 62. ; Pius IX ,
Sketch of his life ; Ancestors of, 407.
Papal Nuncio, 95. And Victor Emmanuel, 408-411.
Paradol, M., in the United Males, 157; Suicide of, 158. Pizarro, 1"'_'.
Paris, Exposition of 1867, The, 23, 29. Place Stanislaus, Scenes in the, 290.
— Journey from Madrid to, 81. — D'Armes, The parades on the, 329.
— Palate of Industry in, 101. — Vendome, Fusillade of the, 430- Regulars in the, 487.
— During the war, 218; Return of regiments to, 229, — De la Bastille, 499.
— Preparations foi the siege of, 262; The sieges of, 263. — De la Concorde, Exciting scenes on the, 229; At-
— Prussian prisoners in, 265; The forts round, 300. tack on the, 480.
— Terms of the armistice, 275. — De l'Opera, The barricade on the, 488.
— Details of the preparation for the defense of, 301. — I >i- ia Roquette, Scenes on the, 438,
— Journey around, during the siege, 332. — Du Carrousel, 140.
— Bombardment of, 359 ; End of the siege of, 375. Plaza de Toros, The, 102.
— Destruction of public institutions in, 361. " Plebiscite, The," 46.
— Personal reminiscences of the close of the siege of,376. Plevna, and its influence on the Russian campaign, 779.
— England's aid after the siege, 377. to, — The fall of, 7s:;
— Triumphal entry into, 125. Plymouth, The forts at, 528.
— Outbreak of the Commune, 426. Poets, Homes and haunts of, 642.
— Second bombardment 443, of, Pomeranians, The, at the siege of Met/, 316.
— Entry of regular troops into, Executions 400. 47*1; in, !'. -. r n ical Zouaves., The, 401,
— The burning 190; he seven days fight in, 499-511.
of, I Pope, at Twickenham, 549.
— Communist proc ission 500. in, Popes, The. and the Vatican, 417.
— The destruction during the Commune, 515. in, Por m gal and the result of the Congo Congress, 842,
— And London compared, 519 526 Pouyer-Quertiek, M.,and Bismarck, 269.
— Of to-day, 520 lnafog,624; Drinking customs 525.
; in, Prado Museum, The, 112.
— The Passion Play 797. in, Prim, General, and Marshal Serrano, 57.
— The Pantheon, the entombment of Victor Hugo 839. in, — Suppresses telegrams, Death of, !*4. fit". ;
— The army the obsequies of Victor Hugo, 841.

of, at — And Bismarck, 165.
Paris Journals during the Commune, "Paris Free, 1 '
Prince Consort at Windsor, 554.
"Commune," 4)15 ;
" Estafette," " Grelot," " Pere — ( Ieori .k of Saxony, 364.
I hjchene," 464. — Imperial, Short career and death of, 849.
Parkington, Sir John, 581. — Of Wales, The title of. 562

Parliament Building, The, 572-571".. Princes of Wales, The, since Edward II. 562
Parnell, Mr., in the House of Commons, 586. Printing Press of the " Times," The, i>17
— In Ireland, 652; Imprisonment of, 653 Provencal Language, The, 84.
Passion Play, The, at Ober-Ammergau, 798-811, Prussia, The Crown Prince of, at St. CI 1, 305; In Ver-
Joseph Maier, 800, 802; Jacob Hett, 801. sailles, 330.
INDEX. Kf,'.»
Prussian Soldier in 1870, Uniform of, 187. Roumania, The Language of, 739 ; Greeks in, 740.
— Spy, Capture of, 221. — Agriculture Impressions of Jassy, 741.
in ;
Puerta del Sol, The, 92 — Bessarabia, 743; Ploiesd and GalaU, 744.
Putney, Aquatic sports in, 540 ; Historical events in, 541. — The towns 745; The monasteries
of, of, 74*;.
Pyat, F<51ix, 303. — And the treaty of San Stefano, 786.
— Streets and street types in, 724.
— Army and navy of, 725-726; Chinches of, 727-72*.
Roumanian Church, The, 727; Houses, 733.
Q Roumanians, 779; Superstitions of, 722 The ; early, 739.
Quaint Old Spanish City, A, G5. Royal Academy, The, 626.
Queen of the Adriatic, The, 400. — Wedding, in Spain, 93.
Queue-en-Brie, Effect of the war in, 350. Rue de la Paix, The rebels in the, 430.
Quirinal Palace, The, 414 — De la Sourdieke, Meetings in the, 147.
Quinet, Edgar, at Belleville, 174. — Rapp, The Explosion on the, 473.

— Speech at the Bordeaux Assembly, 392. — Royale, The Burning of the, 480.
— St. Jacques, Invasion of, 466.
Russia, Nihilism in, sis
— The Emperor of, in the field, 755.
R — Emperor of, in the Kazan Cathedral, 783.
Race for the Rhine, The, 182. Russian Army, The manners of the officers of, 753.
Rachel and Prince Napoleon, 3k. — Soldiers, on the march, 756; Cossacks, 758-759.
Radetzky, General, 757. Russians in Servia, 673.
Ranc and the Communists, 437. — The, in Bulgaria; The singing tumps, 749
Red Republic, The, 428. Russo-Turkish War, Sistova, 758; Rustchuk, 765;
Regiment of the " Guides," The, 151. Prince Tserteleff, 769; The Balkans, 768; Shipka
Regnault, Death of, 371. Pass, 769; The massacre in Eski Zaghra, 774; At
Regnier and Bazaine, 319 Selvi, 775; The horrors of Plevna, 779; Shipka
Reign of Terror, The, 45-46. Pass, Mutilation of the Russian wounded in, 771 ;
Rennie, Sir John, 530. Statistics of the forces in, 782; England intervenes,
Republic in Europe, Advance of the, 849. 784.
Republicanism in Europe, 845; In Spain, 9*. Rustchuk, The Turks in, 765.
Revolution, The, of 1851, 44-48.

Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 548.
Rezonville, Battle at, 211.
Rhine, The, Military scenes on, 186; Bed of, 196.
Richmond, The " Star and Garter " Hotel Gladstone ; at, SaarbrUck Affair, The, 204.
546; Its romance, 540; Louis Philippe at, 548; Sacristan of Notre Dame, The, and the Communists,
Hill, 547; Lodge, 647; Theatre, 54s. 445,
Rigault, Raoul, Project of, 473; Death of, 515. Sadowa, Victory of Prussians at, 152.
Riviera, Francis de la, 70. Sainte Adresse, The heights of, 528.
Rochefort, Henri, and the " Figaro," 50. St. Catherine's Docks, 538.
— Elected deputy, 132; Meetings of, 158. St. Cloud, Burning of the palace of, 305
— And his yellow gloves, 140. Journey through the park at, 579.
— Arrest of, 162; Release from prison, 240. Scenes in, after the war, 379; The palace at, 380.
— Resignation of, 327 ; Sentence and escape of, 517. Sainte-Croix, Chinch of, 332
Rome, Occupation of, by the Italians, 407. St. Cyr, The library of, 57 1.
— Nobility of, and the Vatican, 421. St. Denis, The bombardment of, 373; Prussians in, 431.
Romero de Ronda, Francisco, 102. St. Eugenie's Day, 37.

Rose Culture in Bulgaria, 773. Saint Gratien, Visit to, 337.
Rossel, sketch of his career, 456. St. Hilaire, M. Barthelemy, 146.
— Characterization of the Commune nf, 513. St. James's Palacf, History of, 558.
Rothan, M., on Prince Bismarck, 177 ; And the Duke de St. Paul's, and its neighborhood, 612.
Gramont,179; Interview with Marshal LeBceuf,180. St. Privat, Battle at, 212,
Rouher, M., " Vice-Emperor," 50; As a speaker, 143. St. Stephen's Cathedral (Metz), 309.
— Extracts from speecli of, 152 St. Thomas Aquinas, 425.
Roumania, A khan in; The dogs of, 710. St. Vicente, 80.
— Primitive life of the villagers, 717 ; Education in, 719. Salisbury, Lord, 592 Journey ; to Constantinople, 673.
— French influence in, 721, 725; Jews in, 721. Salvation Army, The, 67s.
— The Dimbovitza, 722 ; Crime in, 724. Samuel, Captain, Telegram of, 182.
— The press 729. in, San Juan, Church of, 76.
— The Garden of Herestreu Gypsy music ; in, 730 San Juan de los Reyes, Church of, 122.
— Climate of, 732. San Sebastian, Biarritz to, 59.
— Funeral Sketch of the history of, 734.
in ; San Stefano, Signing of the treaty of, 785.
— The Turkish Queen Elizabeth, 736.
in ; Sandringham, r>*\~,.
— King Charles, 735-737. Santiago Chapel, 121.

— Cotroceni Tirgoviste Mirzea, 737.
; ; Saragossa, Quaint scenes in, 64; Rebellion in, 66.
860 INDEX.
Sarcey, M. F., on the retreat from Chatillon, 266. Suleiman Pacha and Radetzky, 770.
Sartrouvtelbj Scenes in, '.;".4
At Eski Zaghra, 773, 765.
Schneider, M., and the strikes, 174. Defeat of, 7k4.

— In the Corps Legislatif, 219; Narrow escape of, 232. Sultan of Turkey, The, in Pans, 26,
-• ''ii AND, Agriculture in ; Cities in, 643. Sunday, in London and Pans, 522
— The old Gothic cathedral, 644; St. Mary's cathedra!, Sutherland, Duke of, 571 At Stafford House, ; 631.
64.".; Holyrood Abbey, 646
— The Highlands, 648.
— At Ardrishaig, 649; At Stirling, 650.
— And Ireland, 650.
Scott, Sir Walter. 649.
Second Empire, The, in Parts, in 1867, 21 ; Decline of,
24; Origin of, 40; History of, 4«; Senate of, 148; Tadema, Alma, 626.
Fall of, 224 Tann, General Von der, at Sedan, 257.
Sedan, The retreat to, 243 ; Capitulation of, 249 Tapestries, Noted, 112.
* Terms of the surrender of, 255 Tattersall's, 623.
Seafikld, Karl of, 571. Temple Neuf, The, Destruction of, 284.
Sefton, Karl of, 571. Terriss, Mr., 630.
Seine, The gun-boats on, 447. Terry, Ellen, 629.
Serrano, Marshal, 57. Thames, The, from Woolwich Arsenal to Windsor Castle,
Servia and its rulers, 671 Turkish atrocities in, 672. ; 533-551 ; A grand sight on, 533.
Servian Smugglers, 706. — Embankment, The, 539.
Servians and Bulgarians, 70S. Theatre, The origin of, 797.
Seville, Past and present, 127, 128, The-Atre Francais, The, 39.
Shakesteare House, The Festival, in 1870, 630, ; Theatre The, 796.
of the Passion Play,
Sheffield, Lord, Earl of Mulgrave, "12 — Of the Porte St. Martin, Burning of, 500.
Sheridan, General, in Paris, 430, Thiers, Louis Adolphe, in the Corps Legistalif, 143.
Simnitza, Scenes in, 748. — And his attitude towards the Second Empire, 144.
Simon, Jules, Extract from speech of, 143. — And M. Rouher, 152.
— Parliamentary reputation of, 146. — Protest 168. of,
Sims, ( leorge, 620. — Joins the Committee of Defense, 221,
Sind, Christian, 104. — And M. Jerome David, 222.
Sistine Chapel, The, 417. — Declines to head the government, 223; Project 230. of,
Sistova,750; General 1 Iragimiroft at, 758, — And the Government of National Defense, 325.
Skobeleff, The elder, 754, — Interview with Bismarck, 325 At Versailles, 327. ;
— General, at Plevna. 7sl ; Death of, 848. — And the Bordeaux Assembly, 388.
Slavs, The, 763, 790 — Elected deputy and forms a Cabinet, 389.
Socialism in France, Appearance of, 53; In Germany, 818. — Speech against the Bonapartists, 393.
Society of the Mano Negra, 125. — Speech on the Roman question, 397.
Soudan and the Soudanese, 824, — And the Communists, 432.
Spain, The Revolution in. 56 The ; Republic in, 57 ; Roy- — Vigorous action of, at Versailles, 434.
al wedding in, 03 ; Present condition of, 07 ; National — Mansion of, unroofed, 465.
sport of, 102; Republicanism in, 98, 846. — In Paris during the conflagration, 404.
Spanish Bish< >p, A, 87. — Concessions of, 512; Funeral of, 134, 847.
— Politics since 1869, 78; Cloak, The, 113; Beggars, 116. Thiers, Madame, in the loge de la Presidence, 390.
Speyer, Crown Prince of Prussia at, 188. Thomas, General, Assassination <if, 428.
SPURGEON, Mr in his Tabernacle, 5'JN.
, Tirnova, Triumphal entry of the Russians into, 759.
Stafford House, 631. — Description of a house in, 761.
Stanley, H. M. on the !ongo longress, 842
.
i *
Tobacco, Use of , in the Russian and Prussian armies, 757.
Sthinmetz, General, 189; Recalled from active service, 310. Tocsin, The. in Paris, 476.
Strand, The, a historic avenue, 635. Todleben, General, outside Plevna, 782.
S I RASBI >UPG, in 1870, 170. Toledo, Visit to the city of, 113
— Preparations for an assault upon, 27*. — The military school of. 117 Cathedral ; of, 120.
— Bombardment of; Cathedral, Famous tower of; As Tortosa, 87.
a military fort, 280. Trafalgar Square, 601.
— As built by Vauban, 1682-85,281 ; Public Library, 284. Tri h ami-' >, Tin- batteries of, 447.
— Expulsion of the Germans from, 282; In flames, 283, Tkochi', < teneral, preparing for the siege of Paris, 263.
— Bishop of, and the chief of the Prussian staff, 285. — At i hampigny, 345.
— Perilous journey of the Prefi ct of ; Surrender of, 287. Trajan. The footprints of, 704.
— Journey through, after the bombardment, 289 Trojan, 'onvent of, 771.
«
— Mayor of, approaching death of, 391 Death of, 395. ; Troppmann, Execution of, 159.
Street Fighting, in Spain, 71 ;
As a science, 478. Trouvii e, 528 t
sn- ^ at.' r, olonel, in Egypt, 828, 832.

( Tsettinje, The village of, 698; The Turk's Tower, 699.
— General Herbert, 832 Tuileries, Procession to the, -'.'A.
Stratford-on-Avon, 6:;!i Turkey, L'zarino fort, 680; And the Montenegrins, 690.
Suez Canal, The, 821. — Ada-Ra!e fort, 702.
INDEX. 861
Villemessant, M. de, 139.

Turkish Empire of to-day, The, 790 Time, 767. ;
Villiers, Desperate fighting at, 342.

Twickenham, Walpole al Due d' Aumale at, 548. ;
— Historical event in; Louis Philippe at, 549.

— And vicinity after the battle, 346.
Vinoy, General, attack on the Chateau d'Eau, 501, 507.

— Before Pere la Chaise, 508
Volcanic Shimmer, The, 21.
U
Uhrich, General, in Strasbourg, 280,
United States, Castelar and the, 98.
University Boat-race, The, 541.
w
Unredeemed Italy, 4-4. Wagner, and King Louis II., 791.
Wallachian Soldier, The, 724.
War Pictures, 37S-3fl, 470-1M, 510.
Warwickshire, Rural beauty in, 639.

Washburne, Mr. in Paris, 444.
Vachbrot, M., 394. — Mr. and Archbishop Darboy, 496.
Vaisset, Execution of, 507. Wellington, Duke of, 612.
Valencia, Journey to, 67. Wekder, General Von, Protest of, 281.
— Bombardment of, 68 The nine ; days* fight in, 72-76. West India Docks, The, 537.
— The Passion Play in, 80. Westminster Hall, 574.
— Market-place of, 88; Cathedral, 89. — Palace, 572, 574 ; The Clock Tower, 574.
Valencian Credit Institution as a fortress, 70. Whitman, Walt., Quotation from, 490.
— Republicans, Costume of, 70. Wickede, Von, on the surrender of Sedan, 255
Valles, M. Jules, Statement of, 492. Wilhelm, Prince Friedrich, at the Passion Play, 796.
Vatican, Palace and Museums of the, 416. Wilhelmshohe, Napoleon III. at, 258,
— The Pope at the, 416; The Loggie, 417. William, of Prussia, King, in Paris during the Exposi-
— And the Quirinal Programme of the, 423.
; tion of 1867, 28.
Yi asquez, Isidoro, 93; Pictures of, 111.

— On the 212; Narrow escape
battle-field, 213. of,
— Journey across the

i
257 In Versailles, 330.

Vendome Column, The, Description and fall of, 468. battle-field, ;
Venice, Industrial arts in, 41).".. — Delegation 352 to,
Vekmav, Jehan Cornelius, 111'. — Crowned Emperor of Germany, 365

Vermorel and the Communists, 437. — Emperor of Germany, 816.
Versaillais and the Revolutionists in Paris, 479. Wilson, Professor, on the Lake Country, 04^.
Versailles, Capitulation of, 268. Wimbledon Camp, 54J.

— Journey from Epernay to, 294. Windsor, Town and Castle of, 550.
— The Prussians 298. in, — Edward III at, 551; Memorials of, 552.
— Panics during the siege of Paris, 306, 370.
in,
— Queen Victoria at, 552; St. George's chapel, 554.
— Hotel des Reservoirs, 331. — The Audience Chamber Treasures of Park, 555.
; .
— Rue Neuve, 331. Weissenburg, during the war, Echoes from, 192,
— Royal interview 352; Conspiracy 353.
in, in, — The Crown Prince at, 197 Prisoners of war in, 321,
;
— Christmas 354 Scenes on the canal 355.

in, ; in, Woerth during the Franco-German war. 198.
— New Year's Day at head-quarters, 357. — The horrors of the retreat from, 201.
— Scene the palace 359.
in at, Wolsey, Cardinal, at Hampton Court, 550.
— The Coronation of King William, 363. Wolseley, Lord, at Tel-el-Kebir, 822.
— The Royalists 444, in, — And the Gordon relief expedition, 830,
— Troops, The, and the insurgents, 440. — Return to England, 834.
Vesuvius, 21. Women, Execution of, 488; Of the Commune, The, 460 ;
"Vice-Emperor," M. Rouher, 50. Of Loftscha, The, 762 Of Montenegro, 005.;
Victor Emmanuel, King, entry in Rome, 398. Woolwich Arsenal, 533, 536; Town, Dockyard, 536.
At the Quirinal, 410. Wren, Sir Christopher. 611.'
Wrobleski, General, Surrender of, 500.

Death, and personal traits of. 412,
Effect of Journeys to Vienna and Berlin, 412.
Sons <if, 414; And the Archbishop Pecci, 415.
Victoria, Queen, Private life of, 554.
— Income of, 559; Landed property of, 560.
Yacht Clubs in England, 634.
— Grandchildren 565; Anniversary of birth of, 622.
of,
Yonine, Alexandre, 697.
— Household expenses of, 567 In Scotland, 650, ;
Vn ,na, The financial crash in; The famous Ring, 812.

— The opera in, 815 z
Vie rzonese, The, and the invaders, 385.
Ville d'Avray, in Peace and War, 379. Zbbehr, and General Gordon, 827.
GLOSSARY.
fate, f.ire, fat, organ, fire, far, fit. .\ similar to but longer than e, a the prolonged sound of a, 8 the short
sound ol .1. 9 as s. mete, her, e less prolonged than e, met, met. g hard, pine, pTn, pin, fir. n blends the
sounds of u and y < onsonant. Boston, wool, moon, note, note, not, not. pure,
rut. s soft z. D similar to
the sound of th in tin-. sound of ch in the -Scottish word loch. Jt a strongly aspirated h. I (1
G, K, the
liquid) like Hi in million. M, N, and N° are nasal, l; the sound of rr in terror (trilled), ii indicates the
sound of the French u, u the sound of the French eu, u the short sound of ri. vv similar to our v.
w the vowels joined by it are pronounced almost one
in syllable.
A. Blanqui, blorj'ke'.
Bonjean, Iion'zIi6n'.
Abderrahrnan, abd'eR-RaH'man.
Boulogne, boo'lon',
About, i boo'.
Brasseur, bRa'sUR'.
Alcantara, al-kln'ta-ra.
Bucharest, or Bukharest, bu'ko-rest'.
Alcazar de San Juan, al-k.i't her dlsan Hoo-4n'.
Buzancy, Im /6.\°'see'.
Aldobrandini, al -do bitan-dee'nee.
Alvensleben, al'vens-li-ben.
Alzey, llt'si.
Amiens, am'e-enz. Canrobert, k&N'ro'baiR'.
Andrieu, ON'dRe'uh'. Carlsruhe, katds'roo'.
Angouleme, d', d6N°'goo'l§m' Cavaignac, ka \.\u yik'.
Appenweier, Ip'pen-ftl'er. Cayenne, ka-yenn', or ki'Snn'.
Aranjuez, ran-Hweth'.
.i
Cellini, chSI-lee'nee.
Arnault, .ii: no'. Cespedes, thes-pa'nes.
Asnieres, as'ne-aiR'. Chalons, sha'lov'.
Aspromonte, as-pro-mon'ta. Changamier, shftN'giR'ne-i'.
Auber, 6'baik'. Chateandun, sha'to'duN '.
Augier, o-zhe-a'. Cherbourg, sheR'burg.

Austerlitz, aws'ter-litz. Choisy, shwa'zee'.
Auteuil, f. ml'. Civita Vecchia, chee've-ta vek'ke-a.
Coblentz, ko'blSNss'.
Coello. ko Sl'yo.
Compiegne, koM'pe-aiii'.
Bapaume, ba'pom'.
Conde, kon'di.
Barberini, baR-ba-ree'nee.
Correggio, kor-red'jo.
Baithelemy, bSi tal'me'.
Coulommier, koo'lom'me-a'.
Batignolles, la teen yoll'.
Craiova, or Krajova, kra-yo'va.
Bayreuth, or Baireuth, bi'ruth.
Cremieux, kui'me-uh'.
Bazeilles, ba'zail'.
Crinan, kiee'nan.
Beaugency, bo zh&N°'see'.
Benedetti, bi-nS det'tee.
D.
Biarritz, be-aR'Rits'.
Bievre, be-aiv'r'. Dampierre, dos jie-aik'.
Bischheim, bish'hime. D'Aumale, do'mtl'.

Bitche, oi Bitsch, beetch. De Castelnau, deli kts'tel'nc/.
GLOSSARY. 8l>3
Decazes, deh-kiz'. K.
Delacroix, d'la'kRwa'.
Kaiserslautern, ki'zers-low'tern.
De Medici, da med'e-chee. Kalafat, ka'la-fat'.
De Wimpffen, deli Cvimp'fen.
Kezanlik, kez'anlik'.
Diaz, dee'az.
Dombrowski, dom-brov'skee.
Donchery, d6N G 'sheh-ree'.
Drouyn de Lhuys, dRoo'aN' deh lii-e'. Laboulaye, li'boo'li'.
Dulcigno, dool-cheen'yo. La Chaise, la shiz.
Dun'staff'nage. La Cretelle, la kneh-teT.

Dupin, dii'paN'. Laferte-sous-Jouarre, la feR'ta' soo zhoo-aR'
Lanjuinais, Io.n'zIiu-c'iiA'
Lausanne, lo'zann'.
Le Flo, leh-flo'.
Ecouen, a'koo-6N°'. Leibnitz, lib'nlts.
Emilia, a-meel'ee-a. Levallois, leh-val'wa'.
Enghien, os^'ghe .in°'. Ligne, de, deh lefi.
Espartero, es-paR-ta'ro. Liguria, lee-goo're-a.
Eudes, ud. Limoges, lee'mozh'.
Loftscha, loft'cha.
F. Longwy, luN°'vee'.
Flavigny, fia'veen'yee'. M.
Floquet, flo'ki'.
Flourens, floo'r6N'. Maier, ml'er.
Mainz, nients.
Marseilles, mar-salz'.
Mars la Tour, maR'la'tooR'.
Gabrova, ga-bro'va.
Mediomat'rici (an ancient name of Metz).
Gerrnersheim, gheR'mers-hime'. Meudon, muh'ddN '.

Ghika, gee'ka. Meurice, muh'ress'.
Giordano, joR-da'no. Meurthe, muRt.
Giurgevo, joor-ja'vo. Mezieres, mez'e-aiR'.
Glogau, glo'govv. Millais, mil'la'.
Goethe, go'teh. Miot, me'o'.

Gortschakoff, goR'cha-koP. Mirabeau, me'ri'bo'.
Guerrero, ger-ra'ro. Montpensier, de, deh mAN'poN'se-A'.
Guise, de, deh gvveez. Murviedro, moor-ve-a'dro.
N.
H.
Nanteuil, nuN°'tuI'.
Haguenau, hag'no', or ag'no'. Narvaez, naR-va-eth'.
Hatzfeldt, hats'felt'. Nemours, neh-mooR'.
Heraclius, her-a-cll'us. Neuilly, nuh'yee'.
Hohenlinden, ho'en-lind'en. Notre Dame, not'r dam.
Hohenlohe, ho'en-lo'eh.
Hyacinthe, e'S'saNt'.
Hyeres, ee-aiR'.
Odescalchi, o-des-kal'kee.
Offenbach, offen-bak'.
J-
Jemmapes, zha'map'.
Jerez de la Frontera, Ha-rSth' da la fron-t&'ra. Paladines, de, deh pS'lS'den'.
Joachim, yo'a-Kim. Ferier, pa're-A'.
Joinville-le-Font, zh\vaN G 'veel' leh pdN G . Perigueux, pa'ree'guh'.
s,;i GLOSSARY.
Perugia, paroo'ja. Sevres, s£vr.

Phalsbourg, fals'booR'. Sinmitza, sim-nit'sa.
Pitesti, pe-tSs'tee. Spalatro, spa-la'tro.
Piickler, piik'ler. Suresnes, sii'rain'.
Q.
Queretaro, ki-ii'ta-ro. Temesvar, tem Ssh-viR'.
Thiers, te ,iii;'.
Thionville, te'6N G 'veel'.

Todleben, tot'li ben.
Ragusa, ra-goo'sa. Tourgueiieff. tool geh-nef.
Rambouillet, 6m i boo'yi'. Trebigne, tri-beeii'ya.
Reichshoffen, riks hof'fSn'. Trieste, tre-est'.
Ribera, re-na'ra. Trochu, tRo'shii'.
Rimini, ree'me-ne. Trosachs, tros'aks.
Rodriguez, ro-dRee'geth. Trouville, tioo'veel'.
Roncesvalles, ron'se-val'les.
Rospigliosi, ros-pel-yo'see.
Roubaix, roo'ba'.
Rouen, roo'en. Vacquerri, vf'ki're'.
Rueil, rwal Vaillant, \3 w/
Rustchuk, rous-chook'. Valladolid, v.il la-do-lid'.
Valles, val'ySs
Vauban, vo'boN'.
Velasquez, vi-Ias'k§th.
Saarbriick, >i lik. Versailles, ver-s&lz'.
Saargemiind, slR'gheli-niiint'. Vierzon, vl-cu z6n°'.
Sagun'tum ( im ienl name for Murviedro). Villejuif, veel zhweef.
St. Etienne. saM a'te-enn'. Villeneuve, veel'nuv'.
St. Hilaire, saNt re Ian'. Viliiers-le-Bel, vee'yi' leh bel.
Saint Lazaie, saN° la'zaR'. Vinci, da, da ven'chee.
St. Ouen, saNt w6n g . Von Hoheiizollern, Ion ho'en-tsol'IeRU.
St. Symphorien, s1n° seem'fo'ree'aN '.
Saisset, si
San Juan, sail
si'.
Hoo-an'.
w.
Santa Cruz, san'ta kroos. Walewski, wa-lev'skee.
Saragossa, sa-ra-gos'sa. Wesel, fta'sel.
Sarrelouis (Saar-Louis), sSr-Ioo'is. Wiesbaden, ftees'bl'den.

Save, sav, or siv. Wintei halter, wm'ier-lial'ter.
Sceaux, so. Woerth, vo-aiu'.
Schiltigheim, shil'tiG-hlme'.
Schleswig-Holstein, shles'&ig bol'stine.
Schoelcher, shol'Ker, "i sho'el'shaiR'.
Schoenbrunn, slien'broon. Zurbaran, thooR-ba-ran'.
Scutari, skoo'ta-re. Zurich, zoo'rik.

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King, Edward. Descriptive Portraiture of Europe in Storm and Calm

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King, Edward. Descriptive Portraiture of Europe in Storm and Calm

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SKETCHES AND RECORDS OF NOTED EVENTS, CELEBRATED PERSONS AND

SWITZERLAND, AND ITALY

Ev C. A. NICHOLS & in.

All rights /-. : * vi d.

the current of travel from America to Europe assumed large proportions,

thought of Europe only as a stately pleasure-ground, filled with ancient

Madrid, or Paris, or London, seemed to acquire in the eves of their fellow-

travelled by packet and by stage-coach, and enlivened the accounts of their

it was a trifle humiliating to admit.

The era of conferences and expositions seemed almost to indicate

of power was almost a forgotten illusion ; the policy of compensation so long

asserting with emphasis and might their future supremacy. England,

opportunity of asserting her equality with these new masters of the

European situation. The great storm of the war of 1870-71, in which

long cheeked by consummate statesmen, — had begun in earnest, and was

mastery and prestige in the Balkan peninsula. The revolution in the

the outrages in Bulgaria, were followed by the quick descent of :i powerful

derided as an antique fossil, to be looked at, taken to pieces now and

belong, was thenceforth a vital, all-important factor in European politics.

principality; Roumania and Servia became kingdoms; Roumelia, almosl a

the exact status of England in relation to general European affairs; the

menace conveyed to the small European States like Belgium, Holland,

tion which accompanies hearsay, — this splendid succession of events, large

tion ; to look in at a sovereign's palace or an Empress's boudoir; assist at a

diplomatic intrigue or the production of a famous opera-bouffe ; to he a guest

be besieged and besieger; help at the coronation of an Emperor and at the

uation. During a large part of the epoch covered by the narrative in

this volume, the author enjoyed exceptional opportunities for observing

the conduct of affairs in the various European countries of which he has

which may afford pleasure and profit to the general reader.

Ten Years After. —

The French Gate of the Sea. Marseilles. — -Reminiscences of the Pestilence.

Hardens of the Aleazar. — The Duke of Montpensier IL'l

The French Empire — Subterranean Throes. — Manifestations. — The Assassina-

of — The Protest of M. Thiers. — Personal Reminiscences of the Excitement

master's Department. — No Rations. — No Ammunition ...... 165

tie- Empress ...............

and German Pickets. — In the Foremost Investment Fines. — Montmorency. — The

Ministry of Public Instruction. — The Armistice. — Touching Incidents of the Fratri-

The Narrow Escape from a Reign of Terror. —

Street Fighting as a Science. — The Barricades. — A Rusede Guerre.-— Looking down on a

After Storm. Calm —

smith. — Mortlake. — Thames Tactics. — A Reminiscence of Charles Dickens. — His

The Treasury Whip. — Parliamentary Forms. — Oddities of the House of Commons.

Public and Speakers. — Spurgeon

Mayor of London. — Banquets the Mansion-House. — The City Companies.

"Lord Mayor's Day." — The Procession 598

lition Temple Bar.

Derbyshire. — The Shakespeare Festival 1879. — Stratford. — Birmingham, the

••Toy Shop of Europe" 635

Commerce and its Antiquities. —

Mass Meeting. — The Wild and Savage Peasantry 648

Home at Eventide. — Gypsies at Drenkova. — Through the Iron Gates

The Road to the Balkans. — Gabrova. —-Turkish Time.-—-Bulgarian Schools and

The Mutilation of the RussianWounded. —

The Imperial Family ......

Episode of the Coup d'Etat

Dispersing a Parisian Riot .....

Head-quarters of Napoleon at Chalons .

The Flight of the Empress 237

Episode of the Siegr of Paris

18 /, fS T Oh' II. A 1 'N 77.'. 1 TIOXS.