Tomato Fertilizer

1 Can of Beer (regular 10 oz) (300ml)

1 Cup of Epsom Salts
1/2 Cup of Ammonia
2 Cups of Water

Mix all four ingredients and put in a container.

Add 1 ounce of this mixture per gallon of water (use 1/2 gallon per 3 feet in height)
when watering your Tomatoes. Use one time every 2 week .

======================================================

Choose houseplants suited to the light levels and temperatures of your home to avoid disappointment. Most
houseplants require little attention apart from regular watering and feeding and occasional potting on.

Light

Most plants require bright filtered light. Light levels decrease rapidly as plants are placed further back from
the window. Our eyes compensate for this lack of light. Low light levels can lead to a decline in health as
insufficient food is produced to replace older leaves as they die, leaving pale
stunted plants. Too much light can lead to scorching of the foliage with many tropical houseplants.

Temperature

Although many houseplants require warm rooms, they generally prefer an even temperature. In winter this
becomes a problem when central heating creates large fluctuations between day and night temperatures.
Avoid placing plants near radiators, in draughts, or on windowsills at night.

Humidity

Many tropical plants require a humid atmosphere. Mist plants daily, or place on a tray of damp gravel.
Plants grouped together will create a humid micro-climate around their leaves. Low humidity is a problem
in centrally-heated rooms in winter.

Water
Indoor plants more commonly die of over-watering, than from drought. Overwatering eventually leads to
root death and collapse of the plant. Keep plants just moist. Avoid letting the compost dry out completely.
As the compost dries it becomes lighter in weight and often paler in colour. Water from below allowing the
plant to take up water as it is needed, but allow excess to drain away. Brown tips and margins of the leaves
often indicate that the compost or atmosphere is too dry. Always use tepid water to prevent temperature
shocks to the roots.

Feeding

Liquid feeds are generally the best for houseplants. Choose one high in potash for flowering pot plants,
more balanced for foliage plants. Slow-release fertiliser tabs or granules will last the growing season, but
may concentrate the nutrients to one side of the pot. Specialist feeds are available for certain groups of
plants such as orchids and citrus. Most plants should only be fed when actively growing in March to
September; flowering plants should be fed when in bud and flower.

Repotting

After a year or two plants may need repotting into a larger container to maintain healthy growth. Choose a
clean pot one or two sizes large than the old one. Water the plant before potting and allow to drain. Repot
using a similar type of compost to the old one. Never repot unless the plant actually needs it.

====================================================

Diagnosing leaf problems in woody plants

Pests and diseases may damage leaves, but environmental causes are far more common.

Most trees and shrubs will have a few leaves that suffer damage or disfigurement during the growing
season. Following severe winter weather or prolonged summer drought, however, there may be more
extensive leaf damage on these plants.

Foliage can be damaged in a number of ways but identifying the causes from leaf symptoms is not always
easy. Take into consideration:

When and where a plant is growing - new plants take time to establish.

Soil and root conditions - always examine the condition of the roots to check that they are healthy and have
grown out into the soil (established)

Site conditions over the past 12 months - especially if the ground has been waterlogged or very dry.
In some cases, such as when leaves are uniformly yellow, there may be a range of factors to consider and
all available information should be assessed. Possible explanations may vary from too much or too little
water, too sunny a position or simply the shredding of older lower leaves. Bear in mind that even
evergreens discard older leaves, which usually function for three to five years then deteriorate and drop.

Establishment problems

Leaves turning brown and desiccated on young trees and shrubs in the first summer after planting, often
remaining firmly attached, indicates that plants have not established correctly. This may be due to the poor
quality and condition of the plants purchased, poor planting technique or lack of aftercare.

How to avoid

Always buy healthy-looking, good quality plants with a good root system. Make sure they are suited to the
soil and situation in your garden. Always prepare the site thoroughly and ensure roots are spread out when
planting. Avoid planting too deeply – or too shallowly. Plant in autumn so the roots can establish in cool
conditions before the following summer. For the first two years water well once a week in dry spells and
keep weed free.

Drought

Browning of leaf tips or margins, especially on young growth, may suggest drought and a failure to
establish. Brown leaf tips are common when dry weather follows spring planting before new roots have
established properly.

How to avoid

Water as necessary and maintain a 5-7.5cm (2-3in) mulch around shrubs and young trees, particularly on
lighter, drier soils.

Cold

Frost can damage young shoots in spring distorting growth and causing leaves to turn brown. Plants will
recover but re-growth may be slow. Where leaves turn dark purple, common in camellias and clematis, it is
usually due to low night-time temperatures. The older leaves of Photinia often show vivid dark red spots
and discoloration following cold winters while Garrya leaves often have large areas of black spotting. Cold
and drought conditions may cause leaf margins to roll up or the leaves to droop and this often occurs in
hardy evergreen shrubs, particularly Rhododendron. Leaves that are white and chlorotic have usually
experienced low temperatures and are especially common on tender plants placed outdoors too early in
spring.

How to avoid

Use fleece or other material to protect against frost. Give careful thought to the planting position and,
where necessary, erect temporary windbreaks using stout posts and windbreak fabric. In exposed gardens
consider planting a shelter belt of tough trees and shrubs.

Scorch
Scorching of foliage caused by bright sun is usually obvious, especially as it is worse on the sunny side. It
often occurs where water has collected on the leaves. Cold winds in spring or warm, dry winds in spring
and summer can cause browning and desiccation of young foliage on deciduous trees and shrubs and may
even damage evergreens. Japanese maples (acers) are particularly susceptible. Cold winds in winter,
especially if the soil is frozen, may even cause scorch on hardy conifers.

How to avoid

Erect windbreaks and site susceptible plants in sheltered situations. Ensure plants are mulched and never
dry out.

Waterlogging

The blackening of leaves, usually starting along the vein, is due to waterlogging and is particularly
common on heavy soils after wet winters. It is frequently seen on Aucuba. The roots are a bluish-black and
fall apart when teased out. There is often a sour smell to both the soil and roots. Waterlogging can also
result in reduced variegation or leaf colour.

Evergreens, such as hollies, may lose all their leaves following periods of environmental stress, such as
waterlogging, but often re-sprout if conditions improve and root damage has not been too severe.

How to avoid

Either, improve drainage, plant in ridges or mounds or choose plants that thrive in wetter soils

Physical damage

Abrasion or other superficial tissue damage (often on Clematis and other wall-trained plants) or the
shredding of softer leaves is usually cause by wind buffeting or leaves blowing against a hard surface, such
as a fence or wall. Hail damage, represented by small white spotting or flecking, may occur occasionally,
mainly to the upper surfaces of leaves.

How to avoid

Tie in young growth regularly and provide shelter in more exposed situations.

Oedema

Raised corky patches of tissue on the underside of leaves represents the late stages of oedema. This is
caused by excessive water uptake and is worst in situations where there is a lack of airflow and humid
atmosphere.

How to avoid

Improve airflow around affected plants by pruning and reduce watering.

Loss of variegation
Variegation may vary during the year and is often less apparent in late summer. Where there is a permanent
loss of colour inadequate light is often the cause. Waterlogging can also lead to loss of leaf colour.
Reversion may also occur where more vigorous green shoots outgrow variegated shoots.

How to avoid

Ensure variegated plants are in good light and improve drainage where necessary. Prune out reverted
growth.

Leaf deformation

Where leaves are crinkled or creased it may be due to stop/go development, often cause by a cold spell in
spring or early summer. Where herbicides have been used consider the possibility of spray drift.

How to avoid

Use fleece to protect young growth and ensure regular watering in dry spells during early growth.

Nutrient deficiencies

Lack of leaf colour with poor growth may simply be due to a shortage of nutrients in general, particularly
nitrogen. This is more common on light, sandy soils than on clay soils. Interveinal yellowing is usually
caused by iron, magnesium or manganese deficiencies. Yellowing of foliage will also occur where hard
water is used on ericaceous plants, such as rhododendrons and camellias. Yellowing of foliage may,
however, be a secondary symptom and there may be other causes for the deterioration, such as drought,
pot-bound roots or a general lack of root function due to poor establishment.

How to avoid

For a general lack of vigour apply a balanced fertiliser in spring. For specific mineral deficiencies apply
sequestered iron, Epsom salts or manganese sulphate. Where yellowing is due to excess calcium in an
alkaline soil it is better to choose lime-loving plants.

Chemicals

Brown, dead areas on foliage can be caused by using pesticide sprays at the wrong strengths or in hot,
sunny conditions; also by misjudged application of some weedkillers. Path weedkillers are residual and
heavy rain can wash them into adjoining beds. Spray drift may cause distorted growth, particularly on
roses.

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Insecticides
DEWORMING CONCOCTION

This is an old time remedy for deworming dogs and cats. Use full amount on dogs and 1/4 amount on cats.
Mix one teaspoon of dried, powdered rosemary and one teaspoon of wormwood with 1/2 teaspoon of fresh
ground garlic. Mix well and divide into 4 portions. Give pet a portion mixed in with food or pet treat four
times a day. Repeat this for 3 days and pet should be completely dewormed

House and Garden Natural Insecticide

2 tablespoons liquid soap

1 quart water

Spray bottle

Mix soap and water; add to spray bottle; spray plants evenly, aiming directly at pests whenever possible.

All-Purpose Insecticide

1 bulb of garlic

1 small onion

1 tablespoon cayenne (red) pepper

2 tablespoons liquid soap

1 quart water

Spray bottle

Finely chop onion and garlic; mix with tap water; add cayenne pepper; let sit for one hour, then add soap.
Mix well. When foam subsides, strain into spray bottle. Keep refrigerated. Good for 1-2 weeks.

Special Pest Treatments

Ants

Use boric acid, talcum powder, or chalk as a barrier along the line of entry.

Snails and Slugs

Fill a shallow pan with flat beer and place in the infested area.
Roaches

Set out a dish containing equal parts sugar and baking soda. Roaches are attracted to sugar, and baking soda
is deadly to them.

Fleas

Orange peels

Grapefruit peels

3 cloves garlic

1 tablespoon rosemary, (optional)

1 pint water

Combine ingredients in blender; blend until liquified. Heat mixture on low heat for 15 minutes. Strain
liquid into spray bottle. Spray on pet, and massage thoroughly into your pet's coat, avoiding their eyes.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Note: Feed your pet brewers yeast and garlic, as a diet supplement. Vacuum furniture and carpet frequently
(store vacuum outside of home--in shed or garage--during problem periods); clean your pet's favorite
sleeping spots regularly and sprinkle with fennel, rue or rosemary. .

THE SAFE INSTANT KILL INSECTICIDE

The most effective insecticide that instantly kills flying and crawling insects on contact but does no harm to
mammals or birds is the dried and crushed flowers of the Pyrethrum Plant. This brown powder will kill or
stun the insects the moment it touches them but does no harm to pets when sprinkled on their coats. This
member of the daisy family is a beautiful ornamental and will compliment any garden or flower bed. While
very effective, the dried powder only lasts for a few days. You can prolong its use throughout the year by
freezing fresh flower heads in zip-lock bags and drying and crushing them as needed

Cedar Oil

Try a cedar oil spray. I get it at PetSmart & use it on the dogs, cats & kids - it may seem a bit pricey but one
bottle lasts for awhile. There may be another source for it among herbal shops, natural food stores, etc. One
tip for anyone using it for fleas - it's a REPELLANT and works best if used before you see any fleas. If
you've already got fleas, the same company makes a shampoo.
Rubbing Alcohol

I found out many years ago, when I was a young teenager, that just splashing plain rubbing alcohol on me
and allowing it to dry would deter mosquitoes from biting me. I am allergic to mosquito bites and develop
huge welts everywhere they bite me. With the alcohol, they never bit me. And once it dries, it leaves a
pleasant odor on the skin, not repugnant at all. Thought this might help. And it only costs less than 50 cents
a bottle!

Vaporub

This is going to floor you, but one of the best insect repellents I have found and I am in the woods every
day, is Vick's Vaporub. I rub it on my pants and legs to ward off ticks. If you can tolerate the smell it's
pretty good.

Marigolds in the Yard

There are several things to do when trying to protect yourself and kids from those nasty bugs in the yard
during the summer. One thing to do is plant marigolds around the yard, the flowers give off a smell that
bugs do not like, so plant some in that garden also to help ward off bugs without using insecticides.

Try putting a bounce dryer sheet on your belt or in your sock, the sheet will mask your smell and ward off
the bugs.

Marine's Choice

I don't know how "organic" you want to go, or if it's just DEET you're trying to avoid. But here in
Jacksonville, NC, home of Camp Lejeune Marine Corps Base, our "tough guy" Marines who spend a great
deal of time "camping out" say that the very best mosquito repellant you can use is Avon Skin-So-Soft bath
oil mixed about half and half with alcohol. I've tried it, and I have to admit it works just as well if not better
than the commercial sprays. Actually, I just saw an ad on TV this week for Avon's own Skin-So-Soft insect
repellant. I'm assuming it's made about the same way -- but it may turn out to be less expensive in the long
run to mix your own. An added plus -- it smells great too.

Homemade Recipe

20 drops Eucalyptus oil

20 drops Cedarwood oil

10 drops Tea Tree oil

10 drops Geranium oil

2 oz. carrier oil ( such as Jojoba )

Mix together in a 4 oz. container. Apply to skin as needed avoiding the eye area. Keep out of reach of
children. Test on a small area of skin for sensitivities . Experiment with different percentages of essential
oil.

Vanilla

One of the best natural insect repellants that I've discovered is made from the clear real vanilla (not the
grocery store vanilla extract which is mostly alcohol). This is the pure vanilla that is sold in Mexico. It's
cheap there if you know of someone that lives there or in the US close to the border. If not, health food
stores usually carry it or can order it for you. I use it half vanilla and half water and find that it works great
for mosquitoes and ticks, don't know about other insects. It's nice that you don't smell like a chemical plant
but a cookie! I cannot use chemical insecticides, so I love the way this works and I hope you and your kids
will also.

Moth Balls

To the person who needed natural insect repellent. This is not natural but if you put out moth ball in the
yard where children can't find them, they are great for mosquito. Or make a mixture of 1part baby powder,
1 part flower of sulfur(found at drug stores), 1 part cornstarch. Mix in a ziploc bag, sprinkle on the ground.
Repels most bugs.

from HGTV

"Finely chop a dozen garlic cloves into 4 ounces of mineral oil. Soak for a day or 2, strain it and add 4
drops of dishwasher liquid. Dilute with half cup of water and pour into sprayer." I used a coffee filter to
strain it (sort of messy) and it smells out loud. So far I have used it on two plants and it appears non-
damaging. Incidentally, I planted garlic cloves next to each rose bush and that appears ot have repelled
insects. That is a widely known practice, I gather. Incidentally, I use old soap and garden spray bottles with
no harmful residue.

Catnip Concoction

Make your own by filling a quart jar with some herbs from the mint family - catnip, spearmint, pennyroyal
and then cover with apple cider vinegar. Shake twice a day for 2 weeks. Strain and either rub on or spray
on.

Lavender Oil

I just read about a pleasant solution, though, that worked for me last weekend in the mountains (lots of
biting bugs, but they pretty much left me alone.) Use lavender oil, and dab it on your pulse points (I used it
on my wrists, behind my ears, temples, behind my knees, and on my ankles). Smells wonderful, but
apparently the insects don't think so.

Bug-Proof Your Yard

There are many insect repellents that contain 'pyrethum' which is actually a natural extract of the marigold
plant. It is very safe for use around children and pets but it is quite expensive.
You may also want to regularly spray your plants and grass with a soap and water solution. This will have 3
effects: 1) it will dehydrate most bugs and kill them without chemicals, 2) it will help to keep your grass
and plants clean of pollution and make them healthier and 3) it will soften your soil which mean you won't
have to water as much.

Use a hose-end sprayer filled with 1 cup of any cheap dishwashing soap for your grass or 1 tablespoon of
soap in a hand-held sprayer for your plants.

THE GREAT MOSQUITO REPELLENT

Mosquitoes are very sensitive to certain scents, Chamomile and Citriodora especially. Both are easy to
grow and both are used in dry flower arrangements. Citriodora is also used in potpourri. To make The
Great Mosquito Repellent, take one oz. of green leaves from both plants and boil in a gallon of water.
Strain and place in the refrigerator. Before going outside, splash the mixture liberally over your face and
exposed parts of your body. You will enjoy the fresh, citrus smell but the mosquitoes will stay far away.

TOBACCO DUST.

This dust is ideal for making a great natural pesticide. Mix 1/8 oz. of tobacco dust with one tablespoon of
black pepper and one teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent. Simply apply as you would a chemical
pesticide. This dust is also very effective sprinkled around the base of plants.

Paint Sticks.

To repels bugs from your plants, Pick up paint sticks from your paint store. You can get them for free.
Spray paint them florescent yellow. Then spray them with a spray adhesive. Put near all your plants. The
bugs will be attracted to the color, they will fly or crawl on the sticks and get stuck!

LEMON

Lemon is a natural insecticide and has similar pest-resistant qualities to those of lavender, marigolds,
sassafras and eucalyptus. Try placing minced lemon peel at the base of day lilies, for example, to
discourage the destructive lily beetle. By all means, plant lemon herbs throughout the garden as they a
provide a natural ?line in the sand? to discourage unwanted insects.

ANT CONTROL

"An organic approach has worked better for me and creates no contamination. To control fire ants and
other pests such as fleas, termites, chinch bugs, ticks, crickets and grasshoppers, try the following method"(
Authors' note: This approach has not been scientifically evaluated.).

Step 1: Spray the site with a citrus product. Use a d-limonene product, an orange oil product or any product
that contains a citrus base. Follow label instructions for mixing.

Homemade citrus can be made by soaking citrus peels in water for ten days to two weeks. Use one cup of
homemade concentrate per gallon of water to create a spray. Adding garlic-pepper tea makes the spray even
more powerful. This same spray also will help control aphids, whiteflies and mosquitoes.

The garlic-pepper tea spray also will kill beneficial insects, so use it carefully. In addition, don't use more
than the recommended rates of any of the citrus concentrates or it could kill plants or burn foliage.

Step 2: Treat mounds with a drench of manure compost tea, molasses and citrus oil. Commercial products
may become available that contain these ingredients. The homemade mix includes the following per gallon
of water: 1 to 2 cups compost tea, 2 ounces molasses and 2 ounces citrus oil (see recipe above).

Step 3: Distribute beneficial nematodes on problem areas. Be sure to apply these living organisms within
the date listed on the container - nematodes have a limited shelf life.

Step 4: Spray the site at least monthly with a mixture of manure compost tea, seaweed, natural vinegar and
molasses.

Inorganic Compounds. Boric acid is a slow-acting stomach poison. It is commonly formulated as a dust or
liquid bait for indoor control of ants. One product has been formulated as a fire ant bait for outdoor
broadcast treatment; however, scientifically acceptable data supporting its effective use have not been
produced. Care should be taken when using any boron-containing product around plants, as excess amounts
can lead to boron toxicity. Diatomaceous earth (D.E., silicone dioxide) products registered by EPA as
pesticides are usually applied as a fine dust contact insecticide to ant trails indoors or to produce barriers.
No other forms of D.E. (e.g. swimming pool filter grade or treated D.E.) should be used as a pesticide. D.E.
abrades the waxy layer from the insect exoskeleton causing the insect to desiccate. Although suitable for
dusting foraging ant trails indoors, when applied as a dust or drench to fire ant mounds, dust the tops of
imported fire ant mounds with D.E. dust alone usually does not eliminate treated colonies.

ANT CONTROL
Home-Made Boric Acid Baits. The recipe below can be prepared and used to eliminate fire ants in indoor
situations

Mix 1 part boric acid powder (available from most pharmacies) per 100 (or 50) parts bait material, e.g., 1
teaspoon per 2 (or 1) cups food material

Do not make the bait concentration of boric acid too strong as this reduces its acceptance. The one percent
bait is better than higher concentrations since it is less repellent to the ants and kills ants as efficiently.
Keep the bait fresh and moist. Small quantities of bait can be placed in bottle caps or on pieces of tin foil,
or injected into short (2 inch long) sections of soda straws using a squeeze bottle. Place 20 to 30 small bait
stations where ants have been seen or were attracted to baits as described in the previous section. Do not
place stations in areas accessible to small children or pets. If the proper food is used and the bait is kept
fresh, control should be achieved after 3 to 4 weeks for a careful, thorough baiting program.

For outdoor use, a boric acid solution can be made by mixing 1 tsp boric acid, 3 Tbsp sugar in 2 cups water
and placing it in a container laid on its side near an ant hill. However, organic gardeners feel that boric acid
should not be used outdoors since it can be toxic to plants.

Ant Killers

Ingredients:

-----SUGAR BAIT, NON-TOXIC-----

1/2 C Honey

2 Tbsp Sugar

1/2 C Dry yeast

-----SPICE BATE-----

1 Tbsp Red pepper

1 Tbsp Ground cloves

2 Tbsp Boric acid

Directions:

Sugar Bait: Mix ingredients together. Put around where ants are troublesome. If possible, use a small
plastic container with a cover and pierce holes in it for the ants to enter. The sweetness of this mixture is
apt to attract your pets.

Spice Bait: Mix and place in ant trails. BE CAREFUL OF PETS-- boric acid-- POISON.
Basic Bug Spray

RecipeIngredients: liquid soap and waterCombine 1-tablespoon liquid soap and 1 gallon of water in a
bucket and stir until blended.

Fill a spray bottle with the mixture to spray infested areas. Always make sure to use liquid soap and not
detergent. Detergents may kill your plants.

Basic Bug Spray with Repellent

Ingredients: liquid soap, water, spices, and roots (garlic, onion, horseradish, ginger, rhubarb leaves, or
cayenne pepper)

To eradicate current infestations and to prevent future ones, add some of the strong smelling spices and
roots, listed above, to repel those pests. Boil 1-quart water and pour into a Mason jar with a handful of the
spices and roots. Make sure to screw on the top and let the mixture sit overnight. The next morning strain
the mixture, mix in 1 to 2 tablespoons of liquid soap and spray on infested plants. The soap mixture will act
as an insecticide and the spices and roots will repel the insects. This mixture can go bad, so freeze any
leftovers for use on another day.

Fruit Tree Dormant Oil

SprayIngredients: vegetable oil, liquid soap and water

This solution can be used to suffocate overwintering pests such as mites and aphids on fruit trees and
shrubs. Combine 2-tablespoons of liquid soap and 1-cup of vegetable oil and blend thoroughly. Add 1-
gallon of water a little bit at a time, stirring as you go. Spray a coat of the mixture over the entire bark of a
tree. Make sure the solution stays mixed as you are spraying.

Snail Repellent Recipe

Bury a small bowl or metal can flush with the ground and fill it with beer to attract and trap snails.

Mildew Control Solution (for flowers and vegetables)

Ingredients: baking soda, liquid soap and waterBlend 1-tablespoon baking soda and 1-tablespoon liquid
soap into 1-gallon of water. Pour into a spray bottle and spray on mildew.

Fertilizes Soil while you Kill Insects

Formula Ingredients: liquid soap, 1 gallon hot water, spices, and roots (garlic, onion, horseradish, ginger,
rhubarb leaves, or cayenne pepper) 1 bottle of beer, 1 tsp. baking powder

Fill a spray bottle with the mixture to spray on grass and plants. Always make sure to use liquid soap and
not detergent. Detergents may kill your plants.

----------------------------------

Canada Geese Control

The most effective long-term and environmentally sensitive solution to controlling geese on your property
is through landscaping. Geese prefer short manicured lawns and do not feel as comfortable feeding in areas
were their view is obstructed by dense vegetation. By allowing grassy areas to return to a natural meadow
state, growing 20-30 inches tall, geese will not be able to maneuver as well and will seek out a more
suitable habitat elsewhere.

-----------------------------------------

Webworms

Put the following ingredients in a blender (1 onion, some garlic, a chile pepper, marigold leaves and Ivory
soap) and then pour into a glass jar and set in the sun for 3 days. Use this as a spray to deter pests.

____________________________________________

Control cicada-killers

In an old dish wash soap bottle (squeeze type) mix salad dressing (1/2 of the bottle of oil, the remaining
half vinegar) equal amounts of each to fill the old soap container. Use the cheapest oil and vinegar I could
find in the supermarket.

Mix and shake, wait for a wasp to enter a hole, then squirt the mixture into the hole after it. Look for all of
the other holes and randomly just fill them with the mix. The vinegar helps the mix to run down into the
hole, and the oil coats it.

The wasps will leave.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Other Fertilizers

All-Purpose Tree Fertilizer

3 parts cottonseed meal, soy meal, or blood meal

2 parts finely ground raw phosphate rock or steamed bone meal

3 parts wood ashes, granite rock or greens

1 part dolomitic limestone

Mix all materials. Apply 1 pound of fertilizer for each foot of the drip line diameter of the tree (3 feet = 12
pounds).

Monthly Fertilizer for flowers, plants & lawn:

1 gal. warm water

1 tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. epsom salts

1/2 tsp. household ammonia

Mix together in a gallon jug. The lady that sent it in said it came from her brother who used to work in a
flower shop and it is what they used.

------------------------------------------

Epsom Salts are simply superb for everything in your yard-trees, shrubs, flowers, and especially your lawn.
Epsom Salts contain 16% magnesium and 22% sulfur to deepen the color, promote new growth, and even
help strengthen stems and roots.

Many store bought fertilizers are available, but making your own may bring better rose results: bigger
blooms and in general, a more healthy plant. How to make your own flower fertilizer: 1 1/4 cup beer, 1
tbsp. honey,, 2 tbsp. fish sauce, 2 tbsp. ammonia, 2 tbsp. liquid dish soap, 1 1/2 tbsp. hydrogen peroxide, 4
tbsp. instant tea. Mix it all up with 2 1/2 gallons of warm water. Feed your flowering plants every two
weeks.

To make a home made brew (use no more than twice a month) in a blender or food processor:

1 Banana skin (cutting of the woody hard to pulverize top and bottom)

1/4 cup Epsom salts (The magnesium in Epsom salts assists in the metabolic process. It's usually less
expensive to buy it at a drug store than at the nursery.)

4 Cups of Water
THE REST IS OPTIONAL:

1 Cup of fresh grass trimmings (Optional)

1 Cup of Potato Skin Peelings (So make a smoothie for lunch and mashed potatoes for dinner)

A few teaspoons of milk of magnesia (if you have any around.)

1/2 Cup of Cotton Seed Meal (If you have any around)

2 Tbsp. of Ammoni

----------------------------------------

Weed Control SolutionIngredients: salt, liquid detergent and vinegarCombine 1-cup salt,
1-teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1-gallon vinegar in a bucket. After the mixture is
thoroughly blended, spray onto weeds. This recipe is to be used for weeds growing in
sidewalk cracks and between bricks – not in the garden. This solution can kill the
beneficial plants in your landscaping.

To kill weeds on you lawn use this effective recipe: 80% vinegar and 20% water.
Spray on and kill almost any weeds.

For inside landscaped areas, your safest bet is to remove the weeds by hand when the soil is moist. Moist
soil allows for the plant and its roots to be pulled out more easily. To prevent weeds, before mulching, first
put a couple of layers of newspaper down and then place the mulch on top. This will prevent weed seeds
from sprouting.

----------------------------------------------------

Keep your grass green

Never water your grass when the sun is high. Always do it in the morning or before the night.

----------------------------------------------------

Want a well-aerated lawn?

Then wear your golf shoes when mowing or walking on your lawn. You'll need less water to keep it
green!