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Fast Fashion & Greenwashing: The Worst Combination for Sustainability

Thesis · July 2023

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 UNIVERSITÀ DEGLI STUDI DI MESSINA

DEPARTMENT OF ECONOMICS

MASTER’S DEGREE IN INTERNATIONAL MANAGEMENT

Fast Fashion & Greenwashing:

The worst combination for Sustainability

Student
HONG NGOC NGUYEN – 520568
Supervisor
Prof. Roberta Salomone

Academic Year: 2022 – 2023

 ABSTRACT

Fast fashion, a buzzword in the apparel industry, describing the production of low-cost
clothing at a rapid rate, has gained popularity owing to its ability to meet consumers'
demand for affordable and trendy garments. However, its rapid growth has raised
environmental concerns, leading to the emergence of green marketing and the deceptive
practice of greenwashing, whereby companies falsely present themselves as
environmentally friendly to appeal to consumers' ethical sensibilities. Therefore, by
investigating extensively the reality of fast fashion and greenwashing, the thesis assesses
difficulties and potentials to address these issues, specifically focusing on strategies to
slow down the fast fashion cycle and encourage genuine sustainability among
greenwashing brands. This will be accomplished through a comprehensive synthesis and
comparative analysis of existing literature in the field. Moreover, this study examines the
case of H&M, a fast-fashion giant, and evaluates its efforts to “go green” with the
implementation of the Garment Collecting Program. Although this practice of H&M has
remained controversial, the brand has established a clear vision and long-term strategies
toward the circular economy and sustainable development.
The thesis will contribute to comprehending the nature of fast fashion and greenwashing
and shed light on the challenges and opportunities for fast fashion brands to align their
practices with genuine sustainability goals. Ultimately, this study aims to provide valuable
insights for both academia and industry, facilitating the adoption of more responsible and
sustainable practices in the fast fashion sector.

Keywords: fashion industry, fast fashion, greenwashing, circular economy, sustainability

initiatives, H&M.

1
 TABLE OF CONTENT

I INTRODUCTION .......................................................................................................... 4

II FAST FASHION ............................................................................................................ 7

II.1 Definition ............................................................................................................... 7

II.2 The Market ............................................................................................................ 8

II.2.1 Market drivers and restraints ......................................................................... 9
II.2.2 Market trends .................................................................................................. 11

II.3 Impacts on the Economy, Environment, and Society ...................................... 13

II.3.1 Economic impacts ........................................................................................... 13
II.3.2 Environmental impacts .................................................................................. 14
II.3.3 Social impacts .................................................................................................. 19

III GREENWASHING .................................................................................................. 24

III.1 Green Marketing ................................................................................................. 24

III.2 Greenwashing ...................................................................................................... 25

III.2.1 Definition ......................................................................................................... 25
III.2.2 Driving Factors ............................................................................................... 27

III.3 The Implication of Greenwashing in Fast Fashion .......................................... 29

III.3.1 Forms ............................................................................................................... 29
III.3.2 Typical examples ............................................................................................. 32
III.3.3 Motives ............................................................................................................. 35
III.3.4 Costs and Benefits ........................................................................................... 38

IV HOW TO SLOW DOWN FAST FASHION?.......................................................... 44

IV.1 Concept of Sustainability in the fashion industry ............................................ 44

IV.2 Sustainable Development Goals and Fast Fashion .......................................... 46

IV.3 Challenges to Achieving Sustainability ............................................................. 48

IV.3.1 Challenges to Environmental Sustainability ................................................ 48
IV.3.2 Challenges to Social Sustainability ................................................................ 49

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 IV.3.3 Challenges to Economic Sustainability ......................................................... 49
IV.3.4 Challenges to Ethical Consumerism ............................................................. 51

IV.4 Opportunities for Sustainable Transformation – Circular Economy

Approach .......................................................................................................................... 54
IV.4.1 Incorporating circularity into the business model ....................................... 54
IV.4.2 Opportunities for Fast Fashion getting off the fast track ........................... 57

V HOW TO GREEN THE GREENWASHERS? ........................................................... 66

V.1 Consumer Perception and Impact of Greenwashing ....................................... 66

V.2 Obstacles in Addressing Greenwashing ............................................................ 69

V.3 Overcoming Obstacles and Implementing Changes ........................................ 72

V.3.1 Enforcing regulatory frameworks and standards ....................................... 72
V.3.2 Requiring Third-party verification ............................................................... 74
V.3.3 Strengthening supply chain transparency .................................................... 75
V.3.4 Empowering consumers through information access.................................. 75

VI APPLICATIVE PART: H&M Garment Collecting Program ................................ 78

VI.1 The overall picture of H&M .............................................................................. 78

VI.2 Green Acts of H&M ............................................................................................ 80

VI.3 Garment Collecting Program ............................................................................ 81

VII CONCLUSION ......................................................................................................... 88

VII.1 Key findings ..................................................................................................... 88

VII.2 Recommendations ........................................................................................... 89

VII.3 Suggestions for future research ..................................................................... 91

REFERENCES ..................................................................................................................... 92

APPENDIX ......................................................................................................................... 109

LIST OF FIGURES ........................................................................................................... 114

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I INTRODUCTION

The fashion industry is a vast and influential sector encompassing the design, production,
and distribution of clothing, accessories, and footwear. It is a global powerhouse,
generating substantial revenue annually and shaping cultural and societal trends. Fashion
designers, manufacturers, retailers, and consumers all contribute to the industry's vibrant
ecosystem.

Fast fashion is a prevalent and controversial aspect of the clothing industry. Exemplified
by the global retail chains, fast fashion rests on mass production, low prices, and high
sales volumes (Sajn, 2019). This sector has gained immense popularity in recent years as
consumers seek the latest trends at affordable prices. However, the environmental and
ethical problems associated with fast fashion have garnered significant attention as well.
Their negative impacts on the environment, including resource depletion, pollution, and
waste generation, have raised alarms among consumers and sustainability advocates.

In response to these concerns, the apparel industry has witnessed the emergence of green
marketing strategies aimed at promoting environmentally friendly practices and products.
Nonetheless, alongside these genuine sustainability efforts, greenwashing has also
become widespread. Greenwashing refers to the deceptive practice of companies
projecting a false environmentally friendly image to appeal to consumers' conscience
(Delmas & Burbano, 2011). This phenomenon allows brands to capitalize on the thriving
consumer demand for sustainable products without making substantial changes to their
business practices.

In other happenings, as social and environmental issues have become more pressing over
time, the term "sustainability" has become more and more ubiquitous. The fact that
sustainability is one of the most significant trends permeating all industries is widely
known (Dabas & Whang, 2022). The increased demand for environmentally friendly
products is a result of consumers' growing environmental consciousness. Their perception

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of sustainability and their ability to detect immoral behaviors of fashion brands have
grown remarkably (Auger, Devinney, Louviere, & Burke, 2008). They are no longer
easily swayed by green marketing claims and are instead becoming more discerning in
their purchasing decisions (Chen & Chang, 2013). Consumers are actively seeking
transparency, demanding clear evidence and information about a brand's sustainability
practices. They are more likely to support brands that demonstrate genuine commitments
to sustainability and hold accountable those engaging in greenwashing practices.

Fast fashion and Greenwashing are such emerging issues that independently they can
result in a plethora of negative consequences for both people and the planet. Thus, there
is no surprise that Greenwashing in Fast Fashion possesses a resonant destructive power,
truly preventing the sustainable development of the globe. Yet, there are quite a few
research papers regarding this field, since the two terms “Fast fashion” and
“Greenwashing” have a very broad spectrum. For that reason, it is an urge to explore
extensively this phenomenon and figure out tackling strategies. More specifically, to
answer these research questions:
Ø What is Fast Fashion?
Ø What is Greenwashing, particularly in the Fast Fashion sector?
Ø How to slow down Fast Fashion?
Ø How to green the Greenwashers?

The thesis is structured into seven main sections. To open up the topic, there is an
introduction to the recent context of fast fashion and greenwashing together with the
thesis’s objectives and methodology. The next four parts aim to answer the research
questions, probing deeply into different aspects of Fast Fashion and Greenwashing.
Another important item of this paper is the applicative part which investigates H&M with
one of the controversial green initiatives – Garment Collecting Program, to examine the
brand’s effort and the truth of sustainability behind that program. Eventually, a conclusion
will be drawn to finalize the correlation between greenwashing in fast fashion and
customer perception and to point out the current picture of fast fashion brands with
greenwashing practices in addition to suggestions for future investigations.

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This paper is a descriptive and exploratory type of research, principally relying on
collecting, reviewing, and analyzing secondary data from reliable electronic sources in
combination with previous relevant studies.

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II FAST FASHION

II.1 Definition
The concept of 'Fast fashion' was initially introduced when Zara made its debut in New
York during the early 1990s. The New York Times invented this term to describe Zara's
objective of accomplishing the entire process of designing and selling a garment within a
span of fewer than 15 days (Rauturier, 2022). Due to Zara's ability to swiftly transition a
design from concept to the retail shelf within a mere two-week timeframe, it effectively
generates enthusiasm among consumers who eagerly visit the stores to acquire the latest
trends before they become unavailable.

According to Oxford Languages, fast fashion is employed to denote affordable clothing

swiftly manufactured by mass-market retailers in response to the most current fashion
trends. In other words, the foundational premise of the business model is “knocking off
styles from high-end fashion shows and delivering them in a short time at cheap prices,
typically using lower quality materials” (Sajn, 2019).

Alternatively, fast fashion is defined as “low-

cost clothing that mimics luxury fashion
trends” (Joy, Sherry, Venkatesh, Wang, &
Chan, 2012). New collections are introduced
constantly and often inspired by runway
shows. Fast fashion enables mainstream
consumers to acquire the latest fashionable
appearance or upcoming trend at a reasonable
cost (Hayes, 2022). Fast fashion enterprises
like Misguided introduce approximately
1,000 fresh products monthly, while Fashion
“The traditional clothing-industry
model operates seasonally, with the
fall fashion week displaying styles for
the upcoming spring/summer and the
spring fashion week showcasing looks
for the following fall/winter; in
addition, there are often pre-fall and
pre-spring or resort collections too.
In contrast to these four seasons, fast-
fashion labels produce about 52
‘micro-seasons’ a year—or one new
‘collection’ a week of clothes meant
to be worn immediately instead of
months later.”
(Stanton, 2023)

Nova unveils a range of “600 to 900 new styles every week” (EOS Intelligence, 2020).
Fast fashion is encouraging customers to buy products with low perceived value and

7
minimal financial and psychological investment (Stringer, Mortimer, & Payne, 2020). The
rise in popularity of fast fashion can be attributed to the availability of efficient
manufacturing and shipping methods, the growing consumer demand for modern designs,
and the increased purchasing power of consumers, particularly among younger
demographics, who seek immediate satisfaction in meeting these desires.

II.2 The Market

With 26.5 million employees worldwide, the fast-fashion sector is one of the most
environmentally destructive businesses (Jönsson, Wätthammar, & Mark-Herbert, 2013).
Clothing production by fashion companies has doubled since the 1990s and is growing by
2% annually (Niinimäki, et al., 2020).

As per the Fast Fashion Global Market Report 2023 published by the Research and
Markets organization, the worldwide fast fashion industry is projected to experience a
compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 15.6%. This growth would lead to an increase
in the industry's value from $106.42 billion in 2022 to $122.98 billion in 2023 (Research
and Markets, 2023). Nevertheless, in the immediate term, the global economic rebound
from the COVID-19 pandemic was hindered by the Russia-Ukraine conflict. This ongoing
dispute has triggered economic sanctions in various nations, an escalation in commodity
prices, and disruptions in supply chains, collectively leading to inflationary pressures on
the costs of goods and services and exerting an impact on multiple global markets. With
a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 10.7%, the fast fashion industry is expected
to achieve a valuation of $184.96 billion by the year 2027 (Research and Markets, 2023).

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Figure 1: Forecast of Global Fast Fashion Market 2023-2027 (Research and Markets,
2023)

This report also stated that Zara (Inditex), H&M Group, Fast Retailing (Uniqlo), Gap,
Forever 21, Mango, Esprit, Primark, New Look, and River Island are major players in the
fast fashion competitive landscape.

In terms of regional market segmentation, Western Europe emerged as the largest region,
accounting for 29.3% of the total global fast fashion market in 2022, according to the
Research and Markets report (2023). Meanwhile, Asia-Pacific and North America secured
second and third positions, respectively. These findings hold significant importance for
fast fashion manufacturing and retailing companies as they can formulate improved
allocation strategies and plan business expansions accordingly.

II.2.1 Market drivers and restraints

The exponential expansion of the fast fashion market can be ascribed to a multitude of
factors. Foreign direct investments (FDI) have played a crucial role in the expansion of
fast fashion firms, enabling them to tap into new markets and leverage production
capabilities (Research and Markets, 2023). The rise of emerging markets has also fueled
the demand for fast fashion, as these economies have experienced rising incomes and

9
urbanization (The World Bank, 2021). Media development, including the proliferation of
fashion magazines, television shows, and online platforms, has contributed to the
dissemination of fashion trends and increased consumer awareness (McRobbie, 2008).
Technological advancements have facilitated supply chain efficiencies and enabled faster
production cycles (Joy, Sherry, Venkatesh, Wang, & Chan, 2012). Urbanization has
created a concentrated consumer base and increased the accessibility of fast fashion
products (Remy, Speelman, & Swartz, 2016)

However, several factors have negatively affected the historic growth of the fast fashion
market. The impact of the COVID-19 pandemic has disrupted global supply chains,
resulted in store closures, and altered consumer behavior (Research and Markets, 2023).
Counterfeit products have also posed challenges for the industry, undermining the brand
reputation and market share (Ng, Wang, & Chen, 2020). Reductions in free trade, such as
trade barriers and tariffs, have hindered the global expansion of fast fashion brands (Devi,
Sandeep, & Naik, 2021). Intense competition within the fast fashion sector has forced
companies to engage in price wars and promotional activities, impacting profit margins
(Research and Markets, 2023). Additionally, increasing inventory levels have led to
overstocking and markdowns, affecting profitability and sustainability (Remy, Speelman,
& Swartz, 2016).

Looking ahead, several factors will drive the rise of the fast fashion market. The increasing
adoption of trendy clothes by the growing youth population, who value fashion and
personal expression, will fuel demand (Chapman, Li, & Qian, 2017). The rising
penetration of social media platforms, such as Instagram and TikTok, will continue to
influence fashion trends and consumer purchasing decisions (Hennigs, Wiedmann, &
Klarmann, 2018). The thriving demand for sportswear and performance wear, driven by
health and wellness trends, presents opportunities for fast fashion brands to expand their
product offerings (PwC, 2019). Low-cost production capabilities, particularly in countries
with lower labor costs, enable fast fashion brands to maintain competitive pricing (PwC,
2019). The expanding penetration of organized retail in developing economies provides a

10
platform for fast fashion brands to reach a wider consumer base (Research and Markets,
2023).

Despite the positive growth prospects, the fast fashion market faces potential hindrances.
The increasing transparency surrounding poor working conditions in supply chains has
raised ethical concerns among consumers and may lead to reputational damage for brands
(Niinimäki, Sustainable fashion in a circular economy, 2018). The negative environmental
impact of the fashion industry, including issues related to waste generation and pollution,
has prompted calls for sustainability and circularity (Thomas, 2020). The scarcity of
resources, such as water and energy, poses challenges to the future growth of the industry
(Joy, Sherry, Venkatesh, Wang, & Chan, 2012). Limited cotton production, a key raw
material for the industry, may impact supply chains and sourcing strategies (Joy, Sherry,
Venkatesh, Wang, & Chan, 2012). Moreover, the high production costs associated with
sustainability initiatives and labor standards may pose challenges for fast fashion brands
(Remy, Speelman, & Swartz, 2016).

II.2.2 Market trends

For the fast fashion market, in the era of technological boom and digitalization, there are
two critical trends that every brand should take into consideration: Virtual & Augmented
Reality and the Use of Blockchain Technology (Research and Markets, 2023).

Apparel manufacturing companies are increasingly investing in Virtual Reality (VR) and
Augmented Reality (AR) technology to bridge the gap between offline and online
retailing. By leveraging these technologies, customers can virtually try on outfits through
customized measurement functionality, which utilizes AR technology. This integration of
VR and AR makes the online shopping experience more exciting, interactive, and
entertaining, ultimately attracting more traditional shoppers to online retail sites. With the
help of these technologies, buyers can visualize how the product will look on themselves
before making a purchase, enhancing their confidence and decision-making process
(Grand View Research, 2022). Both online and offline retailers in the fast fashion market

11
have recognized the potential of virtual and augmented reality. These technologies serve
as a means to connect the online and offline channels and provide a seamless shopping
experience for customers. Virtual and augmented reality enables customers to try on
clothes or experiment with makeup virtually, using virtual reality mirrors or smartphone
cameras. For example, applications like Dressing Room leverage augmented reality
technology to allow shoppers to try on outfits on a digital avatar (Research and Markets,
2023) . The US retail behemoth Amazon created an app in June 2019 that functions as a
virtual fitting room and enables customers to try on clothing before making a purchase
(Research and Markets, 2023). Likewise, ASOS, an online fashion retailer, debuted a
video service called "Virtual Catwalk" that uses augmented reality to allow customers to
see clothing items on models while they move (Research and Markets, 2023). The
incorporation of virtual and augmented reality enhances the in-store experience, driving
the growth of the fast fashion market.

Garment manufacturers are increasingly utilizing blockchain technology to enhance

reliability in the supply chain, enable tracking and origin tracing, as well as protect
intellectual property rights (Research and Markets, 2023). Blockchain, a decentralized and
distributed ledger, stores transactions sequentially, functioning as a shared database across
a public or private network. Each user on the network possesses a copy of the ledger,
making it virtually impossible for malicious users to modify or alter its contents. The
ledger can only add new data, ensuring immutability (Mougayar, 2016). An exemplary
implementation of blockchain in the fashion industry occurred in July 2021 when France-
based luxury goods company LVMH collaborated with US-based blockchain software
technology firm ConsenSys and Microsoft to launch Aura, a blockchain-based platform.
The primary objective of Aura is to guarantee the authenticity and traceability of luxury
products. This platform offers features such as lifecycle tracking, proof of origin, and
intellectual property protection (ConsenSys, 2019). Furthermore, in May 2019, London-
based designer Martine Jarlgaard pioneered the creation of the initial clothing items that
incorporated smart labels stored on a blockchain. This innovative approach involved
recording every step of the manufacturing process, from raw materials to the final product,
with precise time and location stamps. By leveraging blockchain technology, the designer

12
aimed to enhance transparency and trust within the supply chain (Segura, 2018). These
examples highlight the growing adoption of blockchain technology within the fashion
industry, as it enables enhanced supply chain management, traceability, and protection of
intellectual property rights.

II.3 Impacts on the Economy, Environment, and Society

The nature of fast fashion is lying on the two phrases “too much and too cheap”,
resembling the high volume of new products and low selling prices. In order to supply
low-cost designs to the final consumer, fast fashion garment manufacturers employ trend
duplication and low-quality materials. Nevertheless, it is a double-edged sword because
their business model is likely to be responsible for a myriad of impacts on people, the
planet, and even on profitability. The influences of fast fashion will be broken down to
three basic dimensions of sustainability, i.e., Economic, Environmental, and Social.

II.3.1 Economic impacts

In fact, fast fashion companies bring advantages to many manufacturers and retailers in
the apparel industry, and to the global economy in general. Academics who endorse fast
fashion, or acknowledge the favorable economic impacts it brings, argue that outsourcing
apparel production benefits both developed and developing nations (Williams, 2022). In
developed countries, corporations can maintain or increase their profits while consumers
gain access to more affordable clothing. In developing countries, significant infrastructure
improvements or construction projects are undertaken to attract more businesses,
ultimately fostering economic growth, and improving living standards for their citizens.
Fast fashion firms often use offshore outsourcing, creating millions of jobs in emerging
nations like Turkey, Indonesia, Vietnam, Cambodia, Bangladesh, Thailand, Myanmar,
etc. From the global point of view, fast fashion seems to be positive with quite
contributions to the economy.

13
However, the pie of the clothing market is not divided fairly because fast fashion brands
are overshadowing the local textile enterprises. Simply, the regional brands may not be
able to compete with the largely invested marketing campaigns of fast fashion giants
which already have sharp competitive advantages in terms of price and production
volume. Besides, not just small local business entities are affected, even the big names of
high-end fashion are involved in the war on the copyright of their designs since fast
fashion designers often rely on Fashion Week items on the runway.
In 2016, Gucci and Forever 21 became entangled in a dispute when the luxury brand
accused the teen retailer of copying its distinctive "blue-red-blue" and "green-red-green"
stripes on multiple clothing items (Hanbury, 2018). Another example is the alleged ripping
off of designs between Zara and an independent designer, Tuesday Bassen (Schlossberg,
2016).

II.3.2 Environmental impacts

According to the United Nations' ActNow Climate Campaign in 2019, the fashion
industry, recognized as one of the most environmentally harmful sectors globally,
consumes more energy than both the aviation and shipping industries combined.
Moreover, the 2021 report from the World Economic Forum identified fashion, and its
supply chain, as the world's third-largest polluters, ranking only behind the food and
construction sectors. The report "Pulse of the Fashion Industry: 2019", jointly produced
by the Boston Consulting Group, the Global Fashion Agenda, and the Sustainable Apparel
Coalition, highlights that the fashion industry is not making sufficient progress in
embracing sustainability measures to counterbalance the detrimental impacts of its rapid
growth.

Today’s “fast fashion” is largely to blame for the unsustainable state of the industry (Rao,
2019) due to its high volume of production, use of non-renewable resources, and the
creation of vast amounts of waste. Fast fashion actually accelerates the speed of disposing
of clothes and multiplies the used amount of non-renewable resources as well as chemicals
across all stages of the value chain. Some of the key environmental influences include:

14
 Ø Overconsumption of resources:
The textile industry relies extensively on non-renewable resources, reaching a staggering
98 million tonnes annually. This includes the utilization of oil for synthetic fiber
manufacturing, fertilizers for cotton cultivation, and chemicals involved in the production,
dyeing, and finishing processes of fibers and textiles (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017).
Additionally, the industry's substantial water consumption, estimated at around 93 billion
cubic meters per year, is equivalent to meeting the water needs of five million individuals
(United Nations, 2019).
When fast fashion brands release their new collections every week, the issue of resource
scarcity is becoming worse than ever. As showcased in a National Geographic
documentary, the production of an average cotton t-shirt requires approximately 2,700
liters of water, which is equivalent to the amount of drinking water that can sustain an
individual for 900 days. Put that in perspective of fast fashion sector, massive clothing
production surely aggravates the water-shortage situation while over “2.2 billion people
are still lacking access to safely managed drinking water" (WHO & UNICEF, 2019).
The industry's current wasteful, linear system, with low rates of utilization and recycling,
is the primary reason for the significant and continuously growing pressure on resources.

Ø Increased carbon footprint:

Based on a report published in 2017 by UNEP and Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the
textile industry is responsible for approximately 10% of worldwide carbon emissions,
contributing a staggering 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2 equivalent (CO2e) annually. If the
fashion industry continues on its current course, it is estimated that its share of the carbon
budget will escalate to 26% by the year 2050.
Approximately 220 million metric tons of carbon emissions are attributed to cotton
production on an annual basis (Organic Trade Association, 2018). Conventional cotton
cultivation relies heavily on synthetic fertilizers, which emit nitrous oxide into the
atmosphere. Nitrous oxide is a potent greenhouse gas, being approximately 310 times
more potent than carbon dioxide. (Okafor, 2022). Besides, the production of polyester

15
textiles alone generated approximately 1.5 trillion pounds (706 billion kilograms) of
greenhouse gases in the year 2015 (Williams, 2022).
Fast fashion relies on a global supply chain that involves the production of clothes in one
part of the world, the transportation of those clothes to another part of the world for sale,
and the disposal of unsold clothes. This process requires a significant amount of energy
and contributes to greenhouse gas emissions. Plus, the shipping policy of fast fashion
brands is quite generous when customers can return the purchased product for free or at a
very low cost, making the number of deliveries increase remarkably.

Ø Chemical pollution:
The production of textiles involves the use of numerous chemicals that can have harmful
effects on the environment, including water pollution and soil contamination.
Fast fashion frequently uses synthetic fabrics like polyester, and their production is
notoriously polluting the air by releasing greenhouse gases such as carbon dioxide and
nitrous oxide. Additionally, when polyester clothing is washed, it sheds microfibers,
which are minuscule pieces of plastic that end up in rivers and oceans and cause plastic
pollution. “About 60 per cent of material made into clothing is plastic, which includes
polyester, acrylic and nylon textiles,” and, because of this, “laundry alone causes around
half a million tons of plastic microfibers to be released into the ocean every year—the
equivalent of almost three billion polyester shirts” (UNEP, 2019). Consequently,
Microfibers are transported through the food chain, gradually moving to higher levels
within the ecological system and causing “starvation, endocrine disruption, stunted
growth in some species and broken-down digestive systems” (UNEP, 2019).
Another important issue is the usage of hazardous chemicals in the production of textiles.
According to an estimate by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation in 2017, the process of
textile dyeing and finishing is responsible for approximately 20% of industrial water
pollution worldwide. This pollution occurs due to the release of untreated wastewater
containing hazardous chemicals. These substances, which include heavy metals and
volatile organic compounds (VOCs), can seriously harm people's health, causing
respiratory problems, skin rashes, and even cancer. Moreover, the utilization of chemicals
in production, such as in cotton cultivation, adversely affects the soil. It impairs the soil's

16
capacity to filter water and sequester carbon, thereby compromising natural soil fertility
(Okafor, 2022).

Ø Excessive waste generation:

In the research “Appalling or Advantageous? Exploring the Impacts of Fast Fashion from
Environmental, Social and Economic Perspectives” by Emma Williams in 2022, fast
fashion is “causing consumers to cycle through their wardrobes more quickly, thus
contributing an exponentially larger amount of waste to the baseline of what humans
produce”.
The products of fast fashion companies are designed to have a short lifespan, in other
words, clothes from those brands are considered “disposable” because with the low price,
customers are not hesitated to put them in a corner of the wardrobe and move on with new
trends.

Figure 1: Growth of clothing sales and decline in clothing utilization since 2000
(Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017)

17
In accord with Figure 1, as reported by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, there has been a
near doubling of apparel production in the last 15 years. This increase can be attributed to
the expanding middle-class population on a global scale and higher per capita sales in
developed economies. The significant surge in production is primarily driven by the
emergence of the 'fast fashion' phenomenon, characterized by shorter lead times for
introducing new trends, a higher frequency of collections offered each year, and often
lower pricing.
As per a 2018 report from the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA),
more than 11 million tons of clothing and textiles are discarded annually, while only 2.6
million tons are recycled or repurposed. The substantial volume of clothing waste is
generated simultaneously with the decline in consumers' income and the depletion of
resources utilized in garment manufacturing (Williams, 2022). On a global scale,
customers forgo approximately 460 billion USD worth of value annually by discarding
clothes that they could have continued to wear. Additionally, it is estimated that certain
garments are disposed of after just seven to ten uses (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017).
Consequently, an astonishing quantity of textile waste is deposited in landfills, where it
can take several centuries to decompose, exacerbating environmental deterioration.
The Atacama Desert in Chile is experiencing a significant increase in the accumulation of
discarded clothing, primarily due to the rapid proliferation of fast fashion, which involves
the mass production of affordable and trendy garments (Bartlett, 2023). African nations
such as Ghana, Kenya, and Tanzania are also confronted with vast repositories of
discarded textiles, despite their relatively less developed municipal waste management
systems. As a result, the environmental repercussions and health consequences arising
from the decomposition of these textiles are expected to be substantial (Lundberg &
Devoy, 2022).
Depending on the composition of the garments, clothing items can persist in landfills for
more than 200 years (Stanes & Gibson, 2019). While this may initially seem like a concern
limited to potential landfill capacity issues, over time, the chemicals and dyes present in
the fabric begin to leach into the soil. This leaching process can result in the uptake of
toxic substances by plants and animals, contamination of drinking water sources, or the

18
release of harmful compounds into the indoor air of nearby buildings (United States
Environmental Protection Agency, 2017).

II.3.3 Social impacts

While fast fashion has revolutionized the way people consume clothing, it has also had a
range of controversial impacts on social aspects. Many scholars are concerned about
problems involving workers like the working conditions of sweat factories, employee
exploitation, or human rights abuses. Simultaneously, from the perspective of the
consumer, fast fashion is responsible for excessive shopping habits.

Ø Poor working conditions

The unrelenting demand for cheaper production leads to skilled garment workers being
trapped in perilous working conditions, where they face the risk of fatal fires that often
devastate clothing factories across the globe. In March 2020, the clothing industry
experienced a staggering 66 factory fires, with an average of two fires occurring daily
(Russell, 2020).
The collapse of the Rana Plaza factory building in Dhaka, Bangladesh on 24 April 2013
resulted in the loss of 1,134 lives and left at least 2,000 individuals injured. The factory
was engaged in clothing production for various international brands, including Primark,
Bonmarché, and Loblaw from Canada (Butler & Begum, 2023). This disaster was brought
to light as a wake-up call for consumers, workers, and business owners about the dark side
of the apparel industry. Nonetheless, Paul Nowak, the general secretary of the Trades
Union Congress in the UK, said: “Ten years after more than a thousand workers died in
the Rana Plaza factory collapse, labor rights abuses are still rife in Bangladesh and many
are still working in unsafe conditions” (Butler & Begum, 2023). In more precise terms,
the prevalence of factory hazards is evident through the identification of over 80,000
safety issues within a total of 1,106 factories in Bangladesh (Oldenziel, 2014). This
indicates that significant concerns regarding workplace safety persist within the country's
manufacturing sector.

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Furthermore, as mentioned above about chemical pollution, fast fashion business is also
responsible for the usage of toxic chemicals in garment finishing, such as formaldehyde
and phthalates. Numerous worker’s health problems, such as skin irritability, respiratory
problems, hormonal disruption, and reproductive problems, have been linked to these
chemicals.

Ø Exploitation of workers
In an effort to sustain high production volumes and enable consumers to purchase
garments in large quantities, numerous fast fashion companies sought ways to minimize
costs within their supply chains. To achieve this objective, these businesses shifted their
production operations to emerging countries, capitalizing on lower labor expenses and
more lenient regulations. It is estimated that the fast fashion industry employs
approximately 75 million factory workers worldwide. Unfortunately, a small proportion,
less than 2%, are believed to receive a wage that is considered a living wage (Morgan A.
, 2015). As a consequence, a considerable number of workers endure poverty-stricken
conditions, with the European Parliament (2014) going so far as to label the working
conditions of Asian factory workers as "slave labor." Many garment workers are
compelled to toil for up to 16 hours a day, seven days a week (Ross, 2021).
According to a report published by The Guardian in April 2023, workers in Bangladesh,
the world's second-largest clothing exporter after China, continue to face low wages and
potential harassment for being part of a union. At the same time, factory owners in the
country endure harsh business practices from brands, such as delayed payments or sudden
cancellations or significant reductions in orders without prior notice. After the Rana Plaza
tragedy, the minimum wage in Bangladesh's garment industry has been reevaluated every
five years. During the most recent revision in 2018, the minimum wage was established
at 8,000 BDT (equivalent to approximately £61) per month, which fell short of the
workers' demands, as reported by Butler and Begum (2023). This wage, which was
deemed inadequate to sustain a living five years ago, remains unchanged despite
substantial inflation and widespread protests by the workers.
Another case related to the exploitation of workers is the investigation into sweatshops in
Leicester, United Kingdom which “shed an unwelcome light onto the UK’s dark

20
relationship with fast fashion” (Leach, 2020). Reported by The Guardian (Davies, 2020),
UK garment workers have been "robbed" of £27 million since July as a result of systematic
underpayment. The unregulated factories pose a threatening exploitation to vulnerable
communities due to the combination of pre-existing economic hardships and the
disproportionate impact of the pandemic on minority ethnic households. A report
conducted by the campaign group Labour Behind The Label revealed that the already
illegal working conditions in Leicester became even more unlawful in the wake of the
pandemic. The report specifically highlighted that the conditions in Leicester's factories
were endangering the health and lives of workers, putting them at risk of Covid-19
infections and fatalities (Labour Behind the Label, 2020).

Ø Human rights abuses

Workers employed in the fast fashion industry frequently endure violations of their human
rights, such as forced labor, child labor, and discrimination.
These exploitative practices have been observed within the apparel industry of various
countries including Argentina, Bangladesh, Brazil, China, India, Indonesia, Philippines,
Turkey, Vietnam, and others, where instances of forced labor and child labor have been
identified (Bureau of International Labor Affairs, 2022). In certain instances, children are
compelled to work under even more unfavorable conditions in "underground" factories,
as child labor is prohibited in most countries. However, as of June 2021, the U.S.
Department of Labor identified 77 countries that were in violation of international
standards regarding child labor (Williams, 2022). Clothing manufacturers are enticed by
the use of child labor due to the advantages it offers, as children are small, agile,
inexpensive, and compliant, and they are typically paid significantly less than the already
meager minimum wages (Lambert, 2014). Despite the efforts of numerous organizations,
consumers, and businesses advocating for reform, the countries where child labor is
prevalent often neglect or fail to enforce child labor laws, making it challenging to bring
about meaningful change.
“Fast fashion is highly dependent on female work. Women compose most of the Asian
garment producers’ workforce – around 80% - with men generally occupying managerial
positions” (Colnago, 2019). The presence of a predominantly female workforce in the fast

21
fashion industry has given rise to numerous instances of injustice, including sexual
harassment, gender pay disparities, and a lack of protection for human rights. These issues
are evident in various ways, such as the denial of bathroom breaks, which increases the
risk of urinary tract infections, further exacerbated by a scarcity of soap, water, and
menstrual supplies. Additionally, many workplaces within the fast fashion sector have
become settings for gender-based violence, encompassing acts of violence that
disproportionately target women. It is believed that “women garment workers may be
targets of violence on the basis of their gender, or because they are perceived as less likely
or able to resist” (Global Labor Justice, 2018).

Ø Overspending on clothing
The documentary film "The True Cost" (Morgan A. , 2015) presents startling statistics
that shed light on the impact of the fashion industry on both people and the environment.
According to the film, fashion consumers now purchase more than 80 billion new clothing
items annually, which is over 400% higher than their consumption just two decades ago.
It is projected that global consumer spending on clothing and footwear will reach
$2,362,076 million in 2023, and this figure may rise to approximately $3,043,526 million
by 2028 (Degenhard, 2023). Despite owning a significant number of fashion items,
individuals do not wear at least 50 percent of their wardrobe (Elven, 2018). Furthermore,
fast fashion perpetuates a culture of disposability (clothing is not intended to be worn
repeatedly but rather to be worn just once or twice before being discarded) and encourages
shoppers to purchase more clothing than they need, which feeds a circle of continuous
consumption. Based on a survey conducted by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation and
published in 2017, it was found that the average consumer purchases 60% more clothing
than they did 15 years ago. However, the survey also revealed that consumers tend to keep
each item for only half as long as they used to.
The fast fashion firms utilize social media as a daily means of marketing for their products.
By thousands of ads on Facebook, Instagram or Tiktok, brands reach consumers all day
all night with relative frequency. Thus, exposure to fast fashion marketing is unavoidable
(Lin, 2022). In addition, those brands make use of social media to keep track of the week's
most popular outfits and quickly replicate them so that they are still in style once clients

22
receive the product. Given the immediate gratification and constant trend updates
provided by fast fashion, it is unsurprising that the fashion industry has experienced
significant growth in recent decades. Examining the case of Shein, a prominent fast
fashion company based in China, they have strategically designed their shopping
application and website to deliver an engaging user experience that fosters addictive
behavior. This approach encourages consumers to frequently access and browse the app,
leading to increased data input and enabling the algorithm to better understand their
preferences (Norna, n.d.). Customers though do not really have the intention to purchase
immediately, seeing the item too often at a very good deal might drive them to the decision
of “adding to cart” eventually.
By the charisma of fast fashion, consumers become sinked in the trap of shopping, leading
to financial difficulties and some psychological effects. Overspending on clothing can
cause financial distress for individuals. According to a survey conducted by LendEDU,
48% of millennials admitted to overspending on clothes and accessories, with 31% stating
that they had gone into debt as a result (LendEDU, 2017). Simultaneously, consumer’s
psychology is also influenced by spending too much on garments. The constant pressure
to keep up with fashion trends and to present a certain image can lead to stress, anxiety,
and low self-esteem. The accumulation of possessions can also contribute to a feeling of
clutter and overwhelm, leading to a less fulfilling and less satisfying life (Mair, 2018).

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III GREENWASHING

III.1 Green Marketing

Over the past few decades, the concept of sustainability has become more substantial in a
variety of disciplines, and “marketing is no exception” (Kemper & Ballantine, 2019).
According to (Shabbir, et al., 2020), this idea of sustainability is frequently studied in
modern literature under the heading of "green marketing," and it has recently become a
worldwide phenomenon (Kapoor, 2020). In brief, green marketing is defined as a
company’s marketing efforts that promote environmentally friendly products or practices
(Ottman, 2011). It was created as a tactic to counter the wasteful and unsustainable
consumer behaviors ingrained in society (McEachern & Carrigan, 2012), and has
improved consumers' attitudes toward products because they feel they
facilitate environmental protection (González, Felix, Carrete, Centeno, & Castaño, 2015)
(Green & Peloza, 2014).

The emergence of green marketing in the apparel industry as a response to environmental

concerns has been observed with the rising number of “ethical collections” such as H&M
Conscious, ASOS Green Room, Zara Join Life, or even Boohoo’s for the Future (Stringer,
Mortimer, & Payne, 2020). The introduction of these new clothing lines, intentionally
designed by fast fashion retailers, showcases the companies' eagerness to substantiate and
display their dedication to social and environmental causes. Simultaneously, their
objective is to enhance brand reputation by employing advertising and other
environmentally conscious marketing tactics, effectively exhibiting their endeavors to the
global audience (Kong, Witmaier, & Ko, 2021).

The massive surge of green advertising came hand in hand with the birth of green
consumption, which began to take off in those years (Righetto, 2021). Groups of
individuals began to embrace a lifestyle that paid more attention to its consequences,
rejecting companies that were seen as unsustainable polluters or socially unethical in favor
of others while expressing their interest in those issues. Since then, the trend keeps

24
growing stronger: a 2015 Nielsen poll revealed that 66% of consumers worldwide are
willing to spend more for products that are ecologically friendly (Watson, 2016). That
percentage increases to 72% among millennials. Acknowledging consumers’ willingness
to pay a premium for ethically produced goods (Kotler, Reinventing Marketing to Manage
the Environmental Imperative, 2011), many businesses attempt to improve their
environmental positioning by publicizing their initiatives to protect the planet. In order to
achieve this, they employ green marketing, creating green campaigns with the explicit
goal of establishing a competitive edge and attracting ecologically aware customers
(Righetto, 2021).

III.2 Greenwashing
III.2.1 Definition
On the other hand, the negative utilization of green marketing generates greenwashing
which is a term used to describe the act of companies capitalizing on the market demand
for sustainability by making false or misleading claims about their environmental
practices (Morgan & Birtwistle, 2009). Sharlene Gandhi, an independent writer, saw it as
a style of marketing that leverages the “climate crisis as a means of marketing without any
fundamental change to business” (Gandhi, 2019). Meanwhile, the scholars Delmas &
Burbano embraced the idea that “greenwashing is the intersection of two firm behaviors:
poor environmental performance and positive communication about environmental
performance”. The practice of greenwashing has two levels. First off, there is corporate-
level greenwashing, in which the company represents its supply chain as being
more environmentally friendly than it actually is. Second, a business may falsely assert
that a good or service is ecologically responsible, which is known as product-level
greenwashing. A company that engages in "greenwashing" is fundamentally functioning
poorly in terms of its environmental practices while emphasizing its environment-
beneficial deeds to its customers and the general public (Delmas & Burbano, 2011).

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The range of behaviors that fall under the category of "greenwashing" is wider than was
first thought; a good list of the most common ones was provided in the renowned paper
"The Sins of Greenwashing - Home and family edition" (2010) by Terrachoice which is
an advertising consultancy company. They investigated any type of environmental claim
made by a corporation regarding its products, the nature of these claims, the information
at support, and any references provided to obtain additional information. Terrachoice then
assessed the statements' nature and sources, identified fraudulent claims, and categorized
them accordingly. Here is the list of seven of the most popular categories of "tricks"
utilized in false claims as a result of this investigation:
i. Sin of the hidden trade-off: Occurs when a product is labeled as "green" based on
a narrow set of characteristics, disregarding other significant environmental
factors.
ii. Sin of no proof: Involves making environmental claims without providing
supporting data or a credible third-party certification.
iii. Sin of vagueness: Involves using statements that are overly ambiguous or general,
leading consumers to interpret them differently from their actual meaning.
iv. Sin of irrelevance: Involves making environmental claims that, while true, are
irrelevant or unhelpful to customers seeking environmentally friendly products.
v. Sin of lesser of two evils: Occurs when claims within a product category may be
accurate but divert attention from the broader environmental impacts of the
category.
vi. Sin of fibbing: The least common sin, involves the making of false environmental
claims.
vii. Sin of worshipping false labels: Involves creating the impression of third-party
endorsement through deceptive words or visuals when no such endorsement
actually exists; essentially, fraudulent labeling.

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III.2.2 Driving Factors
Behind those actions, the motives for greenwashing are discovered by many researchers.
But the most well-known and most adopted model for the drivers of corporate
greenwashing is designed by Delmas & Burbano (2011), presented below in Figure 2.

Figure 2: Drivers of Greenwashing (Delmas & Burbano, 2011)

This model provides a comprehensive framework for understanding the drivers of

greenwashing. Companies most frequently engage in greenwashing due to both internal
organizational issues and external market ones, such as investor demand, consumer
demand, and competitive pressure. As customers and investors place greater emphasis on
corporate sustainability, firms are under greater pressure to seem environmentally friendly
in their communications. In addition to the demand from customers and investors,
corporations are frequently pushed towards going green out of concern that they would
fall behind their rivals. Additionally, the corporate internal environment, particularly the
ethical climate and organizational structure, has an impact on greenwashing tactics. The

27
idea of the perceptions, attitudes, and expectations of the organization's employees
towards ethical decision-making within the organization is referred to as the "ethical
climate”. Companies with stricter codes of ethics are less likely to engage in
greenwashing, especially when it comes to environmental actions. The organizational
structure, particularly its size, and sector, is the other internal factor. Particularly larger
companies that operate in industries with significant environmental effects, like the textile
industry, are more likely to engage in greenwashing than smaller companies in other
industries.

The model constructed by Delmas & Burbano (2011) grouped the drivers into four
categories, i.e., non-market external, market external, organizational, and individual
psychological drivers, but some other scholars simply classified them into external and
internal determinants. Despite the difference in the classification of greenwashing drivers,
the majority of the researchers agree that lax and uncertain regulation is the most vital
factor because firms are likely to manipulate consumer and investor needs for green
products/services when they are aware of the low chance of being penalized. Delmas &
Burbano (2011) also emphasized that a weak regulatory environment would prompt
organizational drivers to have more salient impacts. However, interestingly, when there
is a threat of public backlash for greenwashing, companies having a low likelihood of
achieving environmental success tend to augment their level of disclosures and become
more transparent, rather than companies with a high green reputation (Lyon & Maxwell,
2011). These two authors also reported that enterprises owning an environmental
management system (EMS) are “unable to hide behind the veil of ignorance”, thereby
pressured to fully disclose.

De Jong and partners in 2020 investigated two perspectives of strategic considerations and
organizational complexity. In particular, strategic considerations involve the deliberate
and coordinated endeavors of organizations to portray themselves as more
environmentally responsible than what is warranted. Determinants include the
development and ongoing enforcement of legislation as well as pressure or incentives
from market and nonmarket players (such as the government, investors, and consumers).

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Meanwhile, organizational complexity pertains to the less controllable aspects of
environmental conduct and communication, encompassing challenges in coordinating the
subprocesses involved in adopting environmentally friendly practices and effectively
conveying messages related to environmental friendliness. De Jong and co-authors
noticed that “the growing evidence on the role of organizational complexity in
greenwashing practices relativizes the influence of strategic considerations in determining
greenwashing to some extent”.

Although the external environment has many effects on greenwashing practices recent
literature contends that the emergence of social media has added a new aspect to these
interactions. A theoretical framework for the effect of social media on greenwash is
provided by Lyon and Montgomery (2015). They argue that social media will aid in
taming greenwash generally and, as a result, encourage companies with green reputations
to communicate less and those with brown reputations to communicate more.

III.3 The Implication of Greenwashing in Fast Fashion

III.3.1 Forms
Greenwashing is the practice of misleading customers about a company's or product's
environmental and sustainability initiatives. In the fast fashion sector, where sustainability
issues are becoming more widespread, greenwashing has emerged as a major problem.
Depending on the “Seven Sins of Greenwashing” by Terrachoice in 2010 and annual
accusations related to sustainability claims of fast fashion brands, it is possible to
summarize and classify the types of greenwashing acts:

Ø Vague and Ambiguous Sustainability Claims

Fast fashion brands often present vague or unclear sustainability claims. These brands
may give a false sense of environmental responsibility by utilizing broad phrases like
"eco-friendly," "sustainable," or "green" without offering detailed data or substantiating

29
their claims. Without clear definitions or certifications, these terms can be misleading and
create a false impression of environmental responsibility.
Example: A fast fashion brand claims to have a "green collection" without providing
specific information on how the garments are produced or the environmental standards
they meet.

Ø False Certifications
False certificates are a major concern in the fast fashion sector. To give consumers the
idea that their products comply with stringent environmental standards, several companies
prominently display eco-labels or certificates on their goods or websites. These
credentials, however, have poor reliability and may be deceptive. Consumers may believe
that clothing items bearing eco-labels and certifications are environmentally beneficial
when they are not. However, it is essential to confirm the legitimacy and credibility of the
certification agencies that are responsible for these markings. Some fast fashion
companies might produce their own credentials, or they might use certifications obtained
from questionable sources that lack transparency and third-party verification.
Example: A fast fashion brand displays a logo on their products suggesting they are
"certified sustainable," but the certification is from an unknown organization that lacks
recognition or rigorous evaluation processes.

Ø Limited Sustainable Product Lines

The limited sustainable product lines strategy is a common tactic employed by fast fashion
brands. These companies provide the impression that they are committed to sustainability
by marketing a limited number of products as eco-friendly or sustainable while
nevertheless producing and selling a wide variety of non-sustainable goods. This strategy
enables fast fashion firms to benefit from rising customer demand for sustainable items
without fundamentally altering their business model or addressing the greater
environmental effect of their operations. Brands can develop a positive brand image and
draw environmentally sensitive customers by showcasing a few eco-friendly products.

30
Example: A fast fashion brand introduces an "organic cotton" line, but the vast majority
of its inventory continues to be produced using conventional, resource-intensive materials
and practices.

Ø Misleading Marketing Campaigns

Fast fashion businesses frequently use green marketing initiatives to promote
sustainability and environmental awareness. These advertisements frequently use pictures
of the natural world, and kinder to the environment slogans, and present the brand as being
environmentally conscious. It's crucial to understand, though, that these campaigns can
fall flat and are largely focused on creating favorable press rather than making significant
adjustments to their operational procedures. To project a favorable image and win over
customers who value sustainability, fast fashion companies make significant marketing
and branding investments. These firms try to attract the interest and allegiance of
environmentally conscious consumers by identifying themselves with green images and
eco-friendly messaging. However, their acts may not have the same sustainability impact
as they appear to have.
Example: A fast fashion brand launches a marketing campaign featuring models in lush
green landscapes, emphasizing their commitment to the environment, while their actual
sustainability efforts remain limited or inadequate.

Ø Focus on a Single Aspect of Sustainability

Fast fashion companies frequently focus only on a single facet of sustainability, such as
using organic cotton or using less water, while ignoring other important environmental
and social problems. This narrow concentration may provide the impression that
sustainability is being practiced generally, and it may draw attention away from the
detrimental effects of their actions.
Without making significant adjustments to their general business processes, firms can
market themselves as environmentally conscientious owing to this selective approach to
sustainability. When a company only focuses on one component of sustainability while
ignoring other crucial ones like waste management, carbon emissions, or supply chain
transparency, it might mislead customers into thinking the company is truly sustainable.

31
Example: A fast fashion brand heavily promotes its use of organic cotton in its garments
but fails to address other sustainability concerns such as worker rights, fair wages, or the
use of toxic chemicals in production.

In accordance with the statistics of the European Commission, it can be observed that 53%
of the environmental claims made by companies lack clarity, contain misleading
information, or lack a solid basis. Additionally, 40% of these claims do not have any
supporting evidence, and a significant portion of the green labels provided offer weak or
inadequate verification processes (European Commission, 2023). More particularly,
within the apparel industry, in 2021 Changing Market Foundation conducted a report
called “Synthetics Anonymous” to assess 46 brands across the spheres of fast fashion,
luxury clothing and online retailing based on their environmental claims. The Foundation
used Green Claims Code by the UK’s Competition and Markets Authority as the criteria
to evaluate the truth of the product’s sustainability. Changing Market Foundation stated
that 39% of the products studied were accompanied by a sustainability claim, and among
that 39%, “a shocking 59% flouted green-claims guidelines in some way”. Zara and Gucci
were found to have made the least number of claims that violated the guidelines, while
H&M, ASOS, and M&S had a higher percentage of claims (96%, 89%, and 88%
respectively) that did not fully comply with the established guidelines (Changing Market
Foundation, 2021)

III.3.2 Typical examples

H&M
Being one of the giants in fast fashion retailing, it is unavoidable for H&M to receive
complaints and accusations of greenwashing. The brand even was taken to court for
making misleading claims. As reported by Syafiqua (2022), the Swedish fast-fashion
retailer came under criticism in a greenwashing lawsuit filed by marketing student Chelsea
Commodore. The assertion made by Commodore that the Conscious Choice line from
H&M contained false sustainability information was later confirmed by a Quartz
investigation. Although garments in this conscientious collection were manufactured from

32
recycled materials, H&M still uses synthetic fibers made from fossil fuels that continue to
shed hazardous microfibres when washed. To take things a step further, the fashion
company uses green labels to advertise its Conscious Choice line as being more
environmentally friendly than comparable goods, despite the fact that this is untrue.
Despite H&M's promotion of sustainability initiatives such as garment recycling and
sustainable collections, the inherent nature of fast fashion, including H&M, is to
encourage consumers to purchase more clothes than they actually require. Also, the
production of three billion garments annually by the company cannot be adequately
compensated for by solely advocating recycling and encouraging consumers to do the
same (Igini, 2022).

Zara
Zara came under fire for its vague sustainability claims when they launched the infamous
eco-friendly collection “Join Life” and pledged to stop using toxic chemicals by 2020.
Similar to H&M’s “conscious collection,” employing materials like “organic cotton,”
“recycled wool,” and Tencel is insufficient to lessen its environmental impact when the
vast bulk of its operations continue to be harmful to the environment (Assoune, n.d.).
Besides, in June 2022, in collaboration with LanzaTech, Zara released an exclusive
collection of garments produced from carbon emissions. Carbon emissions from industrial
operations were absorbed and recycled to make fabric, thereby lowering emissions into
the atmosphere. While it is admirable that LanzaTech has achieved a breakthrough in the
conversion of carbon emissions into fabrics, Zara is still responsible for the adverse
environmental impacts of all of its regular collections, which account for the majority of
its sales and earnings (Syafiqah, 2022). This is true even of the limited-edition collection.
Zara continues to create tonnes of non-sustainable apparel on a daily basis, with many
pieces ending up in a landfill not long after.

Primark
After the scandal of the sweatshops in Leicester during the pandemic where the
exploitation of workers was revealed (Leach, 2020), Primark has faced criticism for their
22-piece sustainable collection ‘EarthColors® by Archroma’. The issue with this

33
collection is that it only reflects only a tiny portion of their “sustainable” products. It is
controversial for a mass-producing clothing company like Primark to introduce
collections like these when the basis of their corporate strategy is unsustainable (Syafiqah,
2022). Primark has been accused of selectively highlighting certain sustainability
initiatives while downplaying or ignoring broader environmental and social issues within
the industry. Critics argue that this approach creates a misleading impression of the
company’s overall sustainability efforts.

Adidas
Adidas Stan Smith advert: “Stan Smith Forever. 100% iconic, 50% recycled”.
In 2021, the French advertising regulatory body, Jury de Déontologie Publicitaire (JDP),
stated that Adidas' commercial violated advertising regulations and misled customers. The
advertisement utilized the "End plastic waste" badge in a deceptive manner and failed to
provide accurate information to buyers regarding the overall percentage of recycled
materials used in the shoe (Jury de Déontologie Publicitaire, 2021). The JDP also
highlighted that the slogan "50% recycled" created the impression that half of the total
material in the sneaker was made from recycled materials, which was not the case.

Decathlon
A campaign aimed at exposing "greenwashing" practices also took aim at the French
sporting goods retailer Decathlon for making vague sustainability claims in their
advertisements. The brand's misleading use of terms like "eco-design" led the Netherlands
Authority for Consumers and Markets (ACM) to demand corrective action (Syafiqah,
2022). In response, Decathlon pledged to revise or cease any sustainability claims related
to its products. The business also gave £400,000 to organizations that support the fashion
industry's commitment to sustainability in an effort to atone for its wrongdoing. According
to a recent update, they are apparently working with law enforcement to better how it
"communicates about eco-design," a word that includes, among other things, material
selection and production process optimization (Syafiqah, 2022).

Allbirds

34
Allbirds is a New Zealand-American firm that sells shoes and clothing and is recognized
as a B corporation for its social and environmental performance. It is well-known for
producing the popular "sustainable" wool running sneakers.
Allbirds has come under scrutiny for allegedly understating the environmental impact of
utilizing wool in their sneakers while deceptively claiming that the sheep from its supplier
"live the good life" despite its vows to make its products as environmentally friendly as
possible (Igini, 2022). According to the assertions made by People for the Ethical
Treatment of Animals (PETA), the leading global animal rights organization, workers
engaged in acts of beating, trampling, skin tearing, and throat cutting on conscious sheep,
resulting in their distress and pain. Additionally, while the company's life cycle
assessment (LCA) calculates each product's carbon footprint based on its components,
manufacture, and use, it neglects to account for the environmental effects of producing
wool, such as water use, eutrophication, or land occupation.
Judge Cathy Seibel, presiding over the Southern District of New York, rejected a proposed
class action lawsuit filed earlier this year alleging that Allbirds deceived customers about
its carbon footprint and claims regarding animal welfare in June because the plaintiff's
claims had nothing to do with the wool used by the business specifically (Igini, 2022).

III.3.3 Motives
As discussed above in the background part about Greenwashing, in terms of drivers for
the practice of greenwashing, there is a wide range of determinants to consider, from
external factors like regulators, consumers, and investors to internal ones like firm’s
characteristics, incentive structure or the efficacy of internal communication. Putting them
in the context of fast fashion, some of the most outstanding motives for clothing firms to
conduct the act of greenwashing are selected to analyze below.

First, the most critical driver is the lack of legislation and standards, which is consistent
with previous studies. Indeed, the regulatory environment in which the fast fashion
business operates frequently lacks comprehensive standards and effective enforcement
methods. This legislative gap adds to the practice of greenwashing, wherein businesses

35
make ambiguous or unsubstantiated claims about their green initiatives without risking
serious repercussions. The absence of clear guidelines and strict enforcement allows
brands to manipulate or misrepresent their environmental initiatives (Hassan, Shaukat,
Abbas, & Ashraf, 2021). Fast fashion brands can take advantage of that absence for
gauging sustainability, which makes it more facile to project a positive image to customers
without necessarily making significant changes to their practices. Brands can participate
in many sorts of greenwashing including misleading labeling, ambiguous wording, and
selective reporting of sustainability measures. Additionally, the limited regulatory
oversight also hinders the ability of consumers, investors, and other stakeholders to
differentiate between genuinely sustainable practices and greenwashing. Without
consistent and reliable information, it becomes challenging for individuals to make
informed choices and hold companies accountable for their sustainability claims.

Another external influencing factor originates from consumers, specifically their demand
and perception of sustainability. The growing number of environmentally conscious
consumers who value eco-friendly solutions and are willing to pay a premium for
sustainable products has provided a significant incentive for businesses to demonstrate
their commitment to environmental responsibility. The demand for sustainable fashion
has pushed fast fashion brands to showcase their efforts in sustainability, as it aligns with
the values and preferences of these conscious consumers. However, this heightened
demand has also created an opportunity for greenwashing practices to occur (Morgan &
Birtwistle, 2009). The phenomenon of greenwashing in the fast fashion sector brings to
light the intricate interplay between consumer demand, market dynamics, and corporate
behavior. While consumer awareness and concern for sustainability have driven
companies to respond, it is crucial for consumers to remain vigilant and informed, looking
beyond surface-level sustainability claims and considering the broader practices and
values of the brands they support.

As to the competition of marketplace, Delmas & Burbano (2011) indicated that the
competitive landscape indeed plays an essential role in shaping the decisions of brown
firms (entities with negative environmental impacts) regarding positive communication

36
about their environmental performance. Research by Barnett & Salomon (2006) highlights
the importance of competitive dynamics in shaping firms’ environmental strategies and
communication. The authors argue that If competitors are actively promoting their
environmental initiatives, firms may feel compelled to engage in greenwashing or
communicate positively about their environmental performance. This is driven by the
desire to maintain a competitive edge, respond to customer preferences, and avoid
reputational risks associated with being seen as lagging in environmental responsibility.
Zara, Cos, Uniqlo, Mango, ASOS, and H&M, prominent fast fashion retailers, have
recently made a formal pledge to improve their sustainability practices. They are actively
competing to establish themselves as the most environmentally conscious brands in the
fashion industry. Their approaches and strategies may differ, but they all pledge to use
only environmentally friendly materials and cotton, as well as cutting-edge recycling
technology, and completely remove harmful chemicals from their manufacturing
processes (Levitt, n.d.). A number of these retailers aim to reduce their reliance on harmful
synthetic polyesters, while others are focused on expanding their use of recycled materials.

The pursuit of profit serves as a significant driver of greenwashing within every industry.
Sheppard (2019) highlights this profit-driven motive behind greenwashing within the fast
fashion industry. The allure of capturing market share and increasing sales by positioning
themselves as sustainable can be compelling for brands. The potential financial gains from
greenwashing can outweigh the risks associated with misleading consumers and failing to
implement genuine sustainability measures. Research by Chabowski et al. (2011) supports
the notion that companies engage in greenwashing to enhance their financial performance.
The research indicated a direct correlation between the financial performance of
companies and their implementation of green marketing strategies. This suggests that
brands may prioritize profitability over the genuine implementation of sustainable
practices. They may save costs by avoiding investments in real sustainable practices, such
as improving supply chain transparency, reducing environmental impacts, or
implementing fair labor practices. This cost-saving approach allows brands to maintain
profitability while capitalizing on the growing consumer demand for sustainable products
(Darnall, Henriques, & Sadorsky, 2008).

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Building a ‘green’ reputation is now the trend followed by more and more companies,
especially in the clothing field where marketing and brand image are heavily invested with
storytelling and visual cues to create an association with the environment. Due to the
increasing desire among consumers for sustainable products, adopting environmentally-
friendly practices is the most effective method to attract the expanding population of
environmentally-conscious customers. Social media with immense reach and influence is
a powerful tool for garment retailers to strategically utilize in order to promote their
sustainability initiatives, emphasizing eco-friendly products, highlighting partnerships
with environmental organizations, and sharing images and stories that convey a sense of
sustainability. The studies by Barnes & Lea-Greenwood (2006), Bell et al. (2020), and
Pukoolangara et al. (2021) shared the same idea that by leveraging social media, fast
fashion brands can control the narrative around their sustainability efforts and manipulate
consumer‘s mind. Bell et al (2020) further highlighted that Instagram with its visually-
driven nature would be the top platform shaping customer perceptions. Consumers really
need to exercise critical thinking and seek comprehensive information to discern genuine
sustainability efforts from greenwashing tactics employed by fast fashion brands.

III.3.4 Costs and Benefits

Clearly, the act of publicizing bold environmentally responsible claims, promoting eco-
friendly campaigns, or bolstering green certifications offers certain benefits to companies.
However, these advantages are short-lived as long as the truth of sustainability behind
such advertisements remains undisclosed. This section aims to analyze the costs and
benefits related to greenwashing in the fast fashion industry. Evaluating both the costs and
benefits of greenwashing is crucial for fast fashion companies, as it assists management
in making informed decisions regarding whether to engage in such practices or not.

III.3.4.a Costs:
Ø Increased Operational Costs

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Indeed, increased operational costs are a significant cost of greenwashing in the fast
fashion sector. Companies often invest significant resources in marketing campaigns to
promote their products and brand image. This includes allocating budgets for various
advertising channels, creating compelling content, designing visual arts, and collaborating
with celebrities to reach their target audience (Joy, Sherry, Venkatesh, Wang, & Chan,
2012). Marketing campaigns play a crucial role in shaping consumer perceptions and
influencing purchasing decisions. Firms leverage these campaigns to create a positive
brand image, attract customers, and generate sales. However, when it comes to
greenwashing, these marketing efforts can become a costly endeavor. This strategic
manipulation can involve additional costs in terms of designing misleading content,
employing greenwashing experts, and managing potential legal risks associated with
deceptive advertising. Moreover, the expenses incurred in hiring models and influencers
who align with the company's sustainability claims can be substantial when such
collaborations involve financial agreements, contract negotiations, and the creation of
content that aligns with the desired narrative (Tomovska, 2020).

Ø Negative Publicity & Loss of Customer Trust

Greenwashing in the fast fashion sector can attract negative publicity and backlash from
various stakeholders, including consumers, environmental organizations, and the media.
Also, this practice can have detrimental effects on consumer trust and a firm's reputation.
Once exposed, greenwashing can result in public scrutiny and damage to the brand's
reputation together with consumer’s sense of deception that erodes their trust in the
company.
In the era of social media and online communities, consumers have the power to share
information and opinions widely. They can easily call out brands that engage in deceptive
sustainability practices, creating a significant potential for negative backlash. Social
media platforms amplify the reach and impact of consumer voices, making it harder for
companies to control the narrative and mitigate the damage caused by greenwashing
(Hassan, Shaukat, Abbas, & Ashraf, 2021). Environmental organizations and activists are
also vigilant in monitoring and exposing greenwashing practices in the fast fashion
industry. They play a crucial role in raising awareness, conducting investigations, and

39
holding companies accountable for their deceptive claims. Media coverage of
greenwashing scandals can further intensify the negative publicity and erode the brand's
credibility.
Delmas and Burbano (2011) highlight the negative consequences of greenwashing,
emphasizing that consumers who feel deceived are more likely to engage in negative
word-of-mouth, share their negative experiences with others, and even boycott the brand.
Besides, when greenwashing practices are unveiled, consumers become more skeptical of
future sustainability claims, not only from the specific brand but also from the entire
industry (Khandelwal, Sharma, & Jain, 2019). This skepticism can lead to a significant
damage to brand reputation and a decline in customer loyalty as well as sales revenues
because consumers may switch to more trustworthy and genuinely sustainable brands.

Ø Legal and Regulatory Risks

Engaging in greenwashing practices in the fast fashion sector exposes companies to
significant legal and regulatory risks. Making misleading environmental claims not only
undermines consumer trust but also puts the company at risk of violating advertising
regulations, consumer protection laws, and green labeling standards.
Advertising regulations aim to ensure that advertisements are truthful and not misleading
to consumers (Federal Trade Commission, n.d.). When companies make false or
exaggerated claims about their sustainability efforts, they can be in violation of these
regulations. Regulatory bodies have the authority to impose fines and penalties on
companies found guilty of deceptive advertising practices.
Consumer protection laws also come into play when it comes to greenwashing.
Consumers have the right to accurate and transparent information about the products and
services they purchase. When companies mislead consumers through false environmental
claims, they can be held accountable under consumer protection laws. This can lead to
legal action initiated by individual consumers or consumer advocacy groups, resulting in
costly lawsuits and potential financial damages according to Consumer Rights Act 2015
(UK Legislation, 2015).
Furthermore, greenwashing can also lead to violations of green labeling standards. Green
labels, certifications, and eco-friendly symbols are intended to guide consumers in making

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informed choices about sustainable products. Companies that misuse or falsely apply such
labels can face penalties and damage their reputation among consumers and
environmental organizations (International Organization for Standardization, 2012).

Ø Undermining Genuine Sustainability Efforts & Missed Opportunities for

Innovation
When companies engage in greenwashing, they divert attention and resources away from
meaningful sustainability initiatives. Instead of implementing substantial changes to their
practices, they often focus on superficial changes and marketing tactics to create the
perception of sustainability (Banerjee, 2008).
This diversion of attention and resources perpetuates the status quo of unsustainable
practices (Morgan & Birtwistle, 2009). Genuine sustainability initiatives require
significant investments in research, development, and infrastructure to address the
environmental and social impacts of the industry. However, when companies prioritize
greenwashing, these investments may be overlooked or underprioritized, resulting in
missed opportunities for real change. Neglecting the chance for sustainability innovation
prevents the industry from making meaningful progress towards reducing its
environmental footprint, improving worker conditions, and addressing social and ethical
issues associated with fashion production. Moreover, it undermines the credibility of
sustainability efforts as a whole, leading to a sense of skepticism among consumers and
stakeholders.

III.3.4.b Benefits:
Ø Image Enhancement and Brand Perception
Greenwashing practices allow fast fashion brands to tap into the growing market of
consumers who prioritize sustainability and are actively seeking products and brands that
align with their environmental values and concerns. This alignment between consumer
values and brand image can lead to increased brand loyalty among sustainability-
conscious consumers. When consumers perceive a brand as genuinely committed to

41
environmental responsibility, they are more likely to develop a strong affinity for the
brand and remain loyal to it over time (Leckie, Rayne, & Johnson, 2021).
Furthermore, greenwashing can attract new customers who are drawn to the brand's
perceived sustainability efforts. As consumers become more environmentally conscious,
they actively seek out brands that demonstrate a commitment to environmental
responsibility. The perception of a brand's sustainability initiatives can serve as a powerful
marketing tool, attracting new customers who are motivated to support brands that align
with their values (Leckie, Rayne, & Johnson, 2021).

Ø Increased Sales and Profits

Greenwashing serves as a marketing tool that allows fast fashion brands to capture the
attention and spending of sustainability-minded consumers, driving sales and profitability
in the short term. The rise in sales revenues originates from the increasing number of new
customers and the repetitive purchases of existing clients. By associating themselves with
sustainability, fast fashion brands can appeal to a broader consumer base, thus expanding
their customer reach. Moreover, greenwashing can create a sense of exclusivity and
uniqueness around the brand, making consumers feel part of a socially conscious
community. This can enhance brand loyalty, leading to repeat purchases and long-term
customer relationships. In other respects, paying more attention to environmental issues,
customers are more willing to pay a premium for green products (Biswas, 2016), which
brings extra revenues to fast fashion retailers.

Ø Competitive Advantage
By greenwashing, businesses may differentiate themselves from rivals who are not seen
as environmentally conscientious. Through the strategic positioning of their brand as
sustainable, companies can effectively appeal to consumers who place a high value on
sustainability when making their purchasing decisions. This strategic move enables
companies to attract the attention of environmentally conscious consumers and provides
them with a competitive advantage in the market (Barnes & Lea-Greenwood, 2006).

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While greenwashing may have short-term benefits, the long-term consequences can
outweigh them. The costs associated with loss of trust, negative publicity, and potential
legal consequences can have significant impacts on a brand's sustainability and
profitability. In an era of heightened consumer awareness and scrutiny, maintaining
genuine sustainability efforts is essential for long-term success in the fashion industry.

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IV HOW TO SLOW DOWN FAST FASHION?

IV.1 Concept of Sustainability in the fashion industry

Sustainability, by the definition of the United Nations Brundtland Commissions in 1987,
refers to “meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future
generations to meet their own needs.” At present, nearly 140 developing nations
worldwide are actively pursuing strategies to address their developmental requirements.
However, in light of the growing menace of climate change, it is imperative to undertake
tangible measures to ensure that present-day development endeavors do not inflict adverse
consequences on future generations (United Nations, n.d.). Sustainability is not a recent
concept, as indigenous communities have long embraced practices of sustainable living
by harmonizing with the natural environment and its inherent boundaries, cycles, and
fluctuations. This wisdom is commonly known as traditional ecological knowledge,
encompassing profound understanding and beliefs regarding the interconnections between
humans, animals, flora & fauna, natural phenomena, landscapes, and the timing of events
within a particular ecosystem (McGill University, n.d.).

In the realm of business, sustainability encompasses more than mere environmental

concerns. According to Harvard Business School’s Business Insight Blog, sustainable
business practices are assessed through two dimensions: the environmental impact and the
societal impact of a business. The objective of sustainable practices is to generate a
positive influence in at least one of these domains (Spiliakos, 2018). Sustainable
businesses consider a diverse range of environmental, economic, and social factors when
making strategic decisions. Such organizations carefully track the consequences of their
operations to prevent short-term gains from transforming into long-term drawbacks.

Pointedly, in the context of the apparel industry, this concept also refers to the integration
of ESG (Environmental – Social – Governance) considerations throughout the entire
lifecycle of a clothing product. It aims to minimize negative impacts on the environment,

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promote fair and ethical practices, and create long-term value for all stakeholders
involved. Below are the facets of fashion’s sustainability:
Ø Environmental Sustainability
Environmental Sustainability focuses on reducing the fashion industry's ecological
footprint. It involves using eco-friendly materials, implementing sustainable production
processes, and minimizing waste and pollution. This includes practices such as using
organic or recycled fibers, adopting water and energy-efficient manufacturing techniques,
and implementing recycling and upcycling initiatives.

Ø Social Sustainability
Social sustainability in the clothing industry emphasizes fair and ethical practices that
ensure the well-being and rights of workers throughout the supply chain. It involves
promoting safe and healthy working conditions, fair wages, and equal opportunities for
all workers. This includes initiatives such as implementing fair trade practices, supporting
worker empowerment and education, and addressing issues of labor exploitation and
human rights violations.

Ø Economic Sustainability
Economic sustainability concentrates on creating value and maintaining profitability
while considering the long-term impacts of business operations. It involves adopting
sustainable business models that balance economic growth with social and environmental
responsibility. This includes practices such as investing in research and development for
sustainable innovations, fostering transparency and accountability in supply chains, and
promoting circular economy principles to minimize resource consumption and waste.

Ø Ethical Consumerism
The concept of sustainability in the fashion industry is closely linked to ethical
consumerism. It involves encouraging consumers to make conscious purchasing decisions
based on environmental and social considerations. This includes supporting brands that
prioritize sustainable practices, choosing quality over quantity, and promoting responsible

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consumption patterns such as clothing swaps, second-hand shopping, and repair and care
of garments.

Ø Collaboration and Innovation

Achieving sustainability in the garment industry requires collaboration and innovation
across all stakeholders, including brands, manufacturers, retailers, consumers, and
policymakers. It involves fostering partnerships and knowledge-sharing to drive
sustainable practices, promote research and development of sustainable materials and
technologies, and implement industry-wide initiatives that address common challenges.

Overall, the concept of sustainability in the fashion industry recognizes the need to
transform traditional practices to ensure a more responsible and ethical approach to
fashion production and consumption. It seeks to balance the desire for style and self-
expression with the need to protect the environment, uphold human rights, and create a
positive social impact. By embracing sustainability, the clothing industry can work
towards a more inclusive, equitable, and environmentally conscious future.

IV.2 Sustainable Development Goals and Fast Fashion

Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) are a set of 17 global goals established by the
United Nations in 2015 to address various social, economic, and environmental challenges
faced by the world. Fast fashion, as a prominent sector within the textile industry, has both
positive and negative implications for achieving these goals. Here are some ways in which
fast fashion intersects with the Sustainable Development Goals:

Goal 8: Decent Work Fast fashion brands often rely on low-cost labor in developing
and Economic Growth countries, which can result in poor working conditions, low
wages, and labor exploitation. Achieving Goal 8 requires
promoting fair and safe working conditions throughout the

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 fashion supply chain and ensuring that workers receive fair
wages and have decent work opportunities.
Goal 12: Responsible Fast fashion firms often rely on low-cost labor in developing
Consumption and countries, which can result in poor working conditions, low
Production wages, and labor exploitation. Achieving Goal 8 requires
promoting fair and safe working conditions throughout the
fashion supply chain and ensuring that workers receive fair
wages and have decent work opportunities. For the textile
industry, this goal is a “gateway” to other SDGs.
Goal 13: Climate The fashion industry significantly contributes to greenhouse
Action gas emissions, water consumption, and waste generation. Fast
fashion companies can aggravate climate action by reducing
their carbon footprint, adopting renewable energy sources,
minimizing water usage, and implementing sustainable
supply chain practices.
Goal 14: Life Below The textile industry is a major contributor to water pollution,
Water particularly through the discharge of hazardous chemicals.
Fast fashion brands can support Goal 14 by implementing
proper wastewater treatment systems, using eco-friendly dyes
and chemicals, and promoting responsible water management
practices.
Goal 15: Life on Land The production of textiles often involves deforestation, land
degradation, and the use of harmful pesticides. Fast fashion
can contribute to Goal 15 by sourcing sustainable fibers,
promoting regenerative agricultural practices, and supporting
responsible land use.
Goal 16: Peace, Achieving ethical and sustainable practices in the clothing
Justice, and Strong industry requires transparency, accountability, and strong
Institutions regulatory frameworks. Fast fashion manufacturers and

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 retailers can support Goal 16 by ensuring ethical sourcing,
supply chain transparency, and fair-trade practices.

By aligning their practices with the Sustainable Development Goals, fast fashion brands
have the potential to contribute positively to global sustainability efforts. However, it is
important for the industry to go beyond greenwashing and implement genuine and
comprehensive sustainability strategies that address the social, economic, and
environmental dimensions of sustainable development.

IV.3 Challenges to Achieving Sustainability

The textile and apparel industry encounters a substantial challenge in achieving
sustainability, and although there has been an increase in awareness in recent years, there
is still much progress to be made. While fast fashion brands may even well acknowledge
the concept of sustainability and set goals, the path to achieving it is far from easy. They
are confronted with various obstacles in their quest for sustainability, which stem from
the inherent nature of their business model.

IV.3.1 Challenges to Environmental Sustainability

The fast fashion industry has gained notoriety for its substantial environmental footprint,
which is characterized by detrimental effects such as pollution, excessive water
consumption, chemical contamination of water bodies, and high carbon emissions from
various stages of its lifecycle, including production, transportation, and waste disposal.
The environmental issues are highlighted in Section II.3 Impacts of Fast Fashion have
been extensively deliberated upon, emphasizing the importance of finding comprehensive
solutions for each aspect promptly. Each of these concerns deserves equal attention and
urgent resolution. To address and overcome these barriers, it is crucial for all stakeholders
involved to collaborate and take concerted efforts. This includes making significant
investments, fostering innovation, and implementing systemic changes throughout the
industry. By acknowledging these challenges and actively pursuing sustainable solutions,

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the fast fashion sector can pave the way for a more environmentally responsible and
sustainable future.

IV.3.2 Challenges to Social Sustainability

The apparel sector presents a harsh reality where workers are treated as disposable
commodities, mirroring the transient nature of the clothes they produce. Regrettably, this
bitter truth is difficult to acknowledge but cannot be ignored. With approximately 40
million individuals employed in garment manufacturing worldwide, many of them find
themselves disconnected from basic human rights (Singh, 2023). Human rights violations
within the industry are prevalent, with impoverished individuals, including children, being
compelled to work for meager wages. Workers are often subjected to excessive overtime
hours, surpassing legal limits, without proper compensation. Furthermore, the working
conditions in the apparel sector are hazardous and detrimental to health. The absence of
trade unions further compounds the challenges faced by workers, impeding their ability
to voice their concerns. Gender discrimination is another pressing issue within the apparel
sector. Women, who constitute approximately 80% of garment workers, endure various
forms of harassment, ranging from sexual and physical to mental abuse (Singh, 2023).
Despite being a significant workforce, women have been consistently denied essential
rights within the industry. Female migrants are particularly vulnerable, coerced into
accepting temporary employment contracts that offer paltry wages. Many fast fashion
brands outsource production to low-cost labor countries, where workers may face poor
working conditions, low wages, and even exploitation. Ensuring fair labor practices and
protecting the rights of workers throughout the supply chain is a persistent challenge.

IV.3.3 Challenges to Economic Sustainability

Ø High-speed Production and Time Pressure
The fast fashion industry's business model is built around speed and quick turnover, which
poses significant challenges to implementing sustainable practices. Rapid production and
distribution, short lead times, and frequent product turnover are the hallmarks of this
industry (Fletcher, 2008). These aspects enable brands to quickly respond to changing

49
fashion trends and provide consumers with affordable and fashionable clothing. However,
this fast-paced approach often comes at the expense of sustainability.
Slowing down the production speed in the fast fashion field can be arduous due to the
potential impact on profitability. Brands may need to sacrifice a part of their profits in the
short term to invest in sustainable practices and adjust their production processes.
Balancing efficiency with sustainable production methods requires careful planning,
research, and investment to ensure that sustainable practices can be integrated without
disrupting business operations (McNeill & Moore, 2015).

Ø Expensive Inputs
The sourcing of sustainable materials is a remarkable obstacle in the fashion industry.
Conventional materials like cotton and polyester, which are commonly used, have a
negative environmental impact, and necessitate substantial amounts of water and energy
during production. In contrast, sustainable materials like organic cotton and recycled
polyester fibers are more environmentally friendly but often come at a higher cost and are
less readily available compared to traditional materials (Sankar, 2023). Moreover,
adopting sustainable production methods, such as using non-toxic dyes and minimizing
water usage, can further increase production costs. These challenges make garment
“manufacturers think twice before implementing sustainable practices in their
manufacturing process” (Singh, 2023).

Ø Supply Chain Complexity:

The complexity of the supply chain poses a significant challenge for fast fashion brands
in their pursuit of sustainability. The fast fashion industry relies on a vast network of
suppliers, subcontractors, and manufacturers located in different regions and countries.
This intricate web of relationships and dependencies makes it challenging for brands to
effectively track and manage the environmental and social impacts associated with their
production processes. Ensuring sustainability throughout the supply chain requires brands
to have visibility and control over each stage of production, from raw material sourcing
to manufacturing, transportation, and distribution. However, the lack of transparency and

50
limited traceability in the fast fashion supply chain can make it difficult for brands to
monitor and assess the sustainability performance of their suppliers.

Ø Lack of Transparency and Greenwashing:

The lack of transparency in the fast fashion industry has been a significant concern, with
critics arguing that it hinders progress toward sustainability and creates challenges for
consumers seeking to make informed choices. Transparency refers to the disclosure of
information about a company's practices, including its supply chain, sourcing, and
environmental and social impact. Fast fashion brands have often been criticized for their
opaque supply chains, making it difficult for consumers to trace the origins of their
garments or understand the working conditions under which they were produced. This
lack of transparency can lead to concerns about exploitative labor practices, environmental
degradation, and unethical sourcing of materials. According to research by Morgan and
Birtwistle (2009), fast fashion retailers tend to provide limited information about their
supply chains, making it challenging for consumers to evaluate the social and
environmental impacts of their purchases. The study found that only a small percentage
of companies provided comprehensive information about their sourcing practices and
labor conditions. The lack of transparency in fast fashion can also contribute to the
problem of greenwashing, where companies make unsubstantiated claims about their
sustainability efforts. Without transparent reporting and verification, it becomes difficult
for consumers to differentiate between genuinely sustainable practices and marketing
tactics aimed at portraying a positive image without substantive actions. Building trust
and ensuring transparency in reporting, labeling, and marketing practices are essential for
achieving sustainability.

IV.3.4 Challenges to Ethical Consumerism

Ø Consumer culture and behavior
One of the primary challenges in decelerating the fast fashion industry and promoting
sustainable practices lies in the prevailing consumer culture and behavior. The fast fashion
model has successfully capitalized on consumers' desire for affordable, trend-driven

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clothing and their constant need for novelty in their wardrobes. Fast fashion brands have
positioned themselves as providers of the latest fashion trends at affordable prices,
creating a sense of accessibility and affordability for consumers (McNeill & Moore,
2015). The culture of conspicuous consumption prevalent in today's society further
exacerbates the challenges of slowing down fast fashion. Consumers are driven by the
desire to be perceived as fashionable and up-to-date, leading to a constant demand for new
garments and a rapid turnover of clothing items. This consumption pattern not only
contributes to the environmental impacts of the industry but also perpetuates social issues
such as poor working conditions and exploitation of labor in the global supply chain
(Fletcher, 2008). Consumer behavior is influenced by various factors, including social
norms, peer pressure, and media influence. Social media platforms, in particular, have
played a significant role in shaping consumer culture and fueling the desire for constant
fashion updates. Influencers and celebrities often promote fast fashion brands, showcasing
new outfits and encouraging their followers to emulate their style, which further drives
the cycle of consumption (Barnes & Lea-Greenwood, 2006).

Ø Consumer’s lack of awareness and education:

Many consumers remain unaware of the significant environmental and social impacts
associated with the fast fashion industry. The lack of knowledge and understanding about
sustainable alternatives, as well as the true cost of low-priced garments, presents a
significant challenge in shifting consumer behavior and preferences towards more
sustainable choices. Addressing this challenge requires effective education and awareness
campaigns that can provide consumers with accurate information and promote a deeper
understanding of the consequences of fast fashion (Joy, Sherry, Venkatesh, Wang, &
Chan, 2012). Education and awareness initiatives can help consumers make more
informed decisions by highlighting the environmental and social implications of their
fashion choices. Such campaigns can raise awareness about the excessive use of natural
resources, including water and energy, in the production of fast fashion garments. They
can also shed light on the pollution caused by the release of hazardous chemicals during
the manufacturing process and the detrimental effects of textile waste on ecosystems
(Fletcher, 2008). Furthermore, education programs can focus on promoting a deeper

52
understanding of the true cost of low-priced garments. Consumers often overlook the
hidden costs associated with fast fashion, including exploitative labor practices, poor
working conditions, and inadequate wages for garment workers in developing countries
(McNeill & Moore, 2015). By educating consumers about these social injustices, it
becomes possible to create a sense of empathy and promote a desire for change.

Ø Price Sensitivity and Affordability:

One of the key attractions of fast fashion is its affordability and accessibility to a wide
range of consumers. Slowing down the industry and implementing sustainable practices
may lead to increased costs, as sustainable materials and ethical production methods can
be more expensive (Abreu & José, 2019). This could potentially limit the accessibility of
sustainable fashion options for certain consumer segments, particularly those with lower
incomes. The affordability challenge arises from the potential cost increase associated
with sustainable fashion. Sustainable materials often require more resources and processes
to produce, which can drive up production costs (Choi & Cheng, Sustainable Fashion
Supply Chain Management: From Sourcing to Consumption, 2015). Additionally,
implementing ethical production methods, such as fair wages and safe working conditions,
can also add to the overall production costs (Humble Unique, n.d.). These added expenses
can create a financial barrier for brands and result in higher price points for sustainable
fashion products. The consequence of increased costs is the potential limitation in the
accessibility of sustainable fashion options. Lower-income consumer segments, who rely
on affordable clothing options, may find it challenging to afford sustainable alternatives.
The affordability gap between fast fashion and sustainable fashion can widen, leading to
a disparity in access to environmentally and socially responsible clothing (Chan, 2020).

Addressing these challenges requires collaboration among stakeholders, including brands,

consumers, policymakers, and industry organizations. It calls for innovation, investment
in research and development, policy reforms, and a shift in consumer attitudes and
behavior toward valuing quality, durability, and responsible fashion choices.

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 IV.4 Opportunities for Sustainable Transformation – Circular
Economy Approach

IV.4.1 Incorporating circularity into the business model

Looking beyond the current linear economic model of extraction and disposal, a circular
economy seeks to redefine growth by emphasizing positive societal outcomes. It involves
gradually decoupling economic activity from the consumption of finite resources and
eliminating waste from the system (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017). Supported by a
transition to renewable energy sources, the circular economy aims to enhance economic,
natural, and social capital. It is guided by three fundamental principles: “Design out waste
and pollution”, “Keep products and materials in use”, and “Regenerate natural systems”
(Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017). In a circular economy, economic activities
contribute to the overall health of the system by promoting regeneration. This concept
acknowledges the importance of effective functioning of the economy at various levels,
including large and small businesses, organizations, and individuals, both globally and
locally. The shift to a circular economy involves more than just reducing the negative
impacts of the linear economy; it represents a systemic transformation that fosters long-
term resilience, creates business and economic opportunities, and delivers environmental
and societal benefits.

Circular fashion emerges from the convergence of the "circular economy" and sustainable
and ethical fashion, where the focus is on reducing waste through increased reuse and
recycling (Hill, 2022). These two domains developed independently in various sectors but
have now joined forces, creating a crucial category in the fashion industry's sustainability
efforts. Circular fashion brings heightened ambition, advocacy, and a dedication to
investing in long-lasting clothing, offering a significant advancement from the short-lived
nature of fast fashion. It is possible not only to reduce textile waste and pollution but also
to rebuild trust with an increasingly skeptical consumer base. Integrating circularity into
the manufacturing process of clothing can occur at various stages throughout a garment's
life cycle, starting with the critical design phase (Whieldon, Costello, & Rossi, 2023).

54
Designers have the opportunity to choose recycled fibers or materials with lower
environmental impacts on garment production, and design choices can influence the ease
of garment repair or recycling. During the production stage, manufacturers can work
towards waste reduction by recycling scraps or repurposing unsold or defective inventory.
In the use phase, companies can provide garment rental or repair services to help
consumers prolong the lifespan of their clothing. Lastly, in the post-consumer stage,
companies can implement take-back programs for consumers to recycle old garments or
prepare them for secondhand resale.

The European Commission embraced the “EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular
Textiles” in March 2022 with the objective of fostering a more environmentally friendly
and competitive fashion industry. This strategy aligns with other important EU initiatives,
including the Circular Economy Action Plan (CEAP), the Sustainable Product Initiative
(SPI), and the New Consumer Agenda, which are all derived from the broader European
Green Deal established in 2020 (Legl, 2022).

“The Strategy proposes actions for the entire lifecycle of textiles products
while supporting the ecosystem in the green and digital transitions. It
addresses the way textiles are designed and consumed, including by looking
also at sustainable technological solutions and innovative business models.”
(European Commission, 2022)

By 2030, the European Union envisions that textile products sold in the market will have
an extended lifespan and be highly recyclable. These products will primarily be composed
of recycled fibers and will be free from hazardous substances, ensuring the protection of
both social rights and the environment. Consumers will benefit from durable and
affordable textiles, moving away from the era of fast fashion, and they will have
widespread access to economically viable reuse and repair services. In a competitive,
resilient, and innovative textiles sector, producers will take responsibility for their
products throughout the value chain, even after they become waste (European
Commission, 2022). The circular textiles ecosystem will flourish, driven by robust

55
capabilities for innovative fiber-to-fiber recycling, while the incineration and landfilling
of textiles will be minimized.

Now, the question is how this initiative by EU Commission can help to combat the
drawbacks originating from Fast Fashion. The consumption of textiles is largely
responsible for various pressures, and fast fashion, characterized by low-cost and low-
quality clothing produced rapidly and often under unfavorable labor conditions outside
the EU, plays a significant role in these challenges. The EU Strategy addresses the issues
arising from both the demand and supply sides of the fast fashion industry. To promote
sustainability among producers, the Strategy includes mandatory design requirements for
textiles and emphasizes the implementation of extended producer responsibility schemes,
aiming to prolong the lifespan of clothing. Through the Transition Pathway initiative, the
Commission will collaborate with stakeholders to expand the adoption of resource-
efficient manufacturing processes, as well as explore opportunities in reuse, repair, and
other innovative circular business models within the textiles sector. At the consumer level,
the Strategy seeks to encourage a shift towards valuing quality, durability, longer garment
use, repair, and reuse. By leveraging the European Circular Economy Stakeholder
Platform, the Commission aims to mobilize designers, producers, retailers, advertisers,
and citizens to collectively redefine the fashion industry in the EU.

Fast fashion brands start to execute their circularity commitments by implementing

strategies such as garment collection and recycling initiatives. For instance, H&M's
Garment Collection Program allows customers to bring back their used garments to H&M
stores, where they are either donated, recycled, or repurposed. The practice promotes
circularity by diverting textiles from landfill and giving them a second life (H&M, n.d.).
This program of H&M, with its popularity, will be analyzed below in the applicative part
of the thesis in order to examine the “veritas” of sustainability. On the other hand, brands
can adopt leasing or rental models, where customers can rent clothing for a specific period
rather than purchasing them outright. This approach extends the lifespan of garments and
reduces the overall demand for new products. Examples of companies implementing this

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strategy include Rent the Runway and Mud Jeans (Rent the Runway, n.d.) (Mud Jeans,
n.d.).

IV.4.2 Opportunities for Fast Fashion getting off the fast track
Ø Promotion of Sustainable Materials
The exploration and utilization of sustainable materials present a significant opportunity
for the fast fashion industry to mitigate its environmental impact and contribute to a more
sustainable future. Traditional textile production processes, which rely heavily on
resource-intensive materials like conventional cotton and synthetic fibers, have led to
various environmental issues such as water pollution, deforestation, and greenhouse gas
emissions. Thus, innovations in fabric development have played a crucial role in
expanding the range of sustainable materials available to fast fashion manufacturers.
Organic cotton, for instance, is produced without the use of synthetic pesticides and
fertilizers, reducing the environmental impact associated with conventional cotton
farming. It also promotes healthier working conditions for farmers and reduces the risk of
water pollution. Recycled polyester, another sustainable material, is made from post-
consumer plastic bottles or industrial waste, diverting these materials from landfills, and
reducing the demand for virgin polyester production (Muthu & Gardetti, 2016). Plant-
based alternatives, such as fabrics derived from bamboo, hemp, and linen, offer renewable
and biodegradable options that require fewer resources and have lower ecological
footprints compared to conventional materials (Muthu & Gardetti, 2016).

Fortunately, the fashion industry's embrace of sustainable materials has been a significant
development in recent years, driven by a growing awareness of the environmental impact
of traditional textile production. Various initiatives and collaborations have emerged to
promote the use of sustainable materials and encourage designers and brands to
incorporate them into their collections. A large number of renowned fashion designers
and brands have recognized the importance of sustainable materials and have actively
integrated them into their fashion lines. For example, Stella McCartney, a prominent
sustainable fashion advocate, has been using organic cotton, recycled polyester, and

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innovative materials like Mylo™ (a mushroom-based leather alternative) in her
collections (Stella McCartney, 2021). Another example is EILEEN FISHER, a brand
known for its commitment to sustainability, which incorporates organic cotton, recycled
fibers, and responsibly sourced materials into its designs (Nudelman, 2019).

These advancements in sustainable materials have not only reduced the environmental
impact of the fashion industry but have also demonstrated the potential for
environmentally friendly fashion without compromising style or quality. By utilizing
sustainable materials, designers and brands are showcasing that fashion can be both
aesthetically appealing and sustainable.

Ø Technological Development for Innovative Production

Fashion brands can reduce their resource consumption, minimize waste, and improve
overall operational efficiency by investing in innovative technologies and processes and
implementing numerous measures.

One area of focus is water-saving techniques. The fashion industry is known for its
significant water usage, particularly in textile dyeing and finishing processes. Adopting
advanced technologies such as water recycling systems, dyeing methods that require less
water, and wastewater treatment plants can help reduce water consumption and minimize
the environmental impact of textile production (Shaikh, 2009). Adidas, the giant of sports
clothing and footwear, has partnered with technology companies to develop waterless
dyeing techniques. NTX™ Cooltrans™ is an innovative textile coloring solution that
enables precise and efficient coloring of synthetic materials, requiring significantly less
heat and water compared to traditional methods (Rehm, 2022). Adidas has also adopted
the 'Dope Dye' technology, a method in which pigments are incorporated into the material
prior to yarn production, eliminating the need for additional fabric coloring (Rehm, 2022).
This technology allows the brand to conserve water, energy, and chemicals while
enhancing the color durability of the material.

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The use of renewable energy sources is another crucial aspect of sustainable production
in the fast fashion industry. Transitioning to renewable energy helps reduce greenhouse
gas emissions associated with energy consumption. Brands can invest in solar or wind
energy installations, as well as energy-efficient equipment and machinery, to decrease
their carbon footprint. For instance, H&M group has entered into a power purchase
agreement with Neoen and Alight to secure renewable energy from a newly established
solar park in Sweden (H&M Group, 2023). Through a significant long-term agreement,
H&M Group will receive renewable energy from the solar park, contributing to a
substantial reduction in the company's carbon footprint. This partnership marks the largest
solar power purchase agreement (PPA) in Sweden so far, with the Hultsfred solar park
boasting a capacity of at least 90 MWp. The energy generated by the park is equivalent to
powering more than 16,000 households for an entire year (H&M Group, 2023).

Furthermore, fast fashion firms can leverage automation and digitalization to enhance
production efficiency and minimize waste. Technologies like computer-aided design
(CAD) systems and computerized cutting machines can improve precision and reduce
material waste during the production process. Digital technologies can also facilitate better
inventory management, demand forecasting, and supply chain optimization, leading to
more sustainable and resource-efficient operations (Romagnoli, Tarabu, Vishkaei, &
Giovanni, 2023).

Ø Enhancement of Supply Chains Traceability and Transparency

With the visibility of supply chains, fast fashion companies can better understand and
address issues such as worker rights, environmental impact, and raw material sourcing.
Besides, this revised transparency allows consumers to make more informed choices and
holds brands accountable for their practices.

An effective strategy for improving supply chain traceability involves the application of
advanced technologies, such as blockchain. Blockchain, as a decentralized and immutable
system, offers a platform for securely recording and disseminating information throughout
the supply chain (Jordan & Rasmussen, 2018). It facilitates the transparent monitoring of

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various stages in garment production, encompassing the sourcing of raw materials,
manufacturing processes, distribution networks, and retail operations. Consequently, this
technology enables the validation of assertions pertaining to sustainability, ethical
sourcing practices, and labor conditions (Caldarelli, Zardini, & Rossignoli, 2021). One
notable example of the application of blockchain in the fashion industry is the partnership
between the luxury brand Stella McCartney and the technology company Bolt Threads.
Through the use of blockchain technology, Stella McCartney can ensure transparency and
traceability in the sourcing and production of Mylo™ which is their sustainable leather
alternative made from mushrooms, allowing consumers to understand the environmental
footprint of their products (Stella McCartney, 2021).

Regarding the transparency of fashion supply chains, considerable attention has been
devoted to the creation of transparency indexes as conventional measurement instruments
for supply chains. Among these, the Sustainable Apparel Coalition's (SAC) Higg Index
has emerged as a prominent tool within the industry and has been widely adopted by
numerous companies (Jordan & Rasmussen, 2018). The Higg Index enables participants
across the sector to comprehensively evaluate the ecological and societal consequences of
their production procedures, fostering a collective understanding of the impacts involved
(Lehmann, et al., 2019). Furthermore, initiatives like the Fashion Revolution's "Fashion
Revolution Week" campaign held every year advocate for greater transparency in the
fashion supply chain (Fashion Revolution, 2023). This campaign encourages consumers
to ask brands, "Who made my clothes?" and pushes companies to disclose information
about their suppliers, manufacturing processes, and labor conditions.

Ø Powerful Tools – Life Cycle Assessment

Life-cycle assessment (LCA) is a methodology that examines the environmental
consequences of a product throughout its entire life cycle, aiming to enhance resource
efficiency and minimize environmental liabilities (European Environment Agency, n.d.).
It provides a comprehensive analysis of the environmental impacts associated with a
product or its intended function. LCA considers the complete life cycle, from raw material
extraction to manufacturing, distribution, use, and end-of-life disposal. Key elements of

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LCA include identifying and quantifying environmental loads involved, assessing the
potential impacts of these loads, and exploring options for reducing these impacts. LCA
is often described as a "cradle-to-grave" analysis, encompassing all stages of a product's
life (European Environment Agency, n.d.).

Life cycle assessment undoubtedly plays a crucial role in the textiles industry in general
and in the fast fashion field in particular. Firstly, it helps to quantify and assess the
environmental burdens throughout the different stages of a garment's life cycle, examining
various factors such as resource consumption, energy use, greenhouse gas emissions,
water usage, and waste generation. This holistic assessment provides a clear
understanding of the environmental hotspots and allows companies to focus their efforts
on the most significant areas of impact. Secondly, LCA supports the identification of
improvement opportunities by evaluating alternative materials, production methods, and
supply chain practices. It allows fashion brands to compare different scenarios and make
informed decisions that can lead to more sustainable outcomes. For example, LCA can
help determine whether using organic cotton or recycled polyester would result in lower
environmental impacts compared to conventional materials. Subsequently, LCA can guide
decision-making processes by highlighting areas where improvements can be made, such
as using more sustainable materials, optimizing production processes, reducing energy
consumption, implementing recycling and waste management strategies, and considering
end-of-life treatment options. It provides a comprehensive view of the product's
environmental performance, allowing companies to prioritize actions that have the most
significant positive impact. Furthermore, LCA promotes transparency and informed
consumer choices. By providing quantitative data on the environmental performance of
products, LCA enables consumers to make more environmentally conscious purchasing
decisions. It enhances transparency in supply chains, allowing consumers to assess the
environmental credentials of different fashion brands and products. Last but not least, the
use of LCA in the fast fashion industry also supports the development and implementation
of eco-design principles. LCA helps designers and product developers consider
environmental factors from the early stages of product development, leading to the
creation of more sustainable and eco-friendly designs. It facilitates the integration of

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circular economy principles, such as recycling, reusing, and reducing waste, into the
fashion business model.

The project “LCA on fast and slow garment prototypes” by Peters, Sandin, Spak, & Roos
in 2018 is typical evidence of utilizing LCA in analyzing alternatives for traditional
materials to extend the longevity of a clothing item. The environmental assessment carried
out as part of the Mistra Future Fashion program is summarized in this paper, with an
emphasis on increasing the environmental performance of clothing and implementing a
circular economy. The report explores different approaches, including using paper-based
materials and extending garment life cycles, to reduce the environmental consequences of
fast-fashion trends. Two paper-based garments are considered in the assessment. One item
of garments is mainly comprised of paper pulp and a polylactic acid polymer, worn a few
times, and then recycled into newspapers. The other clothing item is compostable and
consists of paper pulp, polylactic acid, and nanocellulose (Peters, Sandin, Spak, & Roos,
2018). This study compares paper-based garments to a standard t-shirt, while also
exploring a scenario involving a polyester garment that undergoes multiple ownership
changes and modifications to extend its lifespan. The modifications include three
sublimation overprints and the addition of a new outer shell using laser technology to
create a cropped jacket. The researchers conducted an environmental life cycle
assessment, specifically using attributional process analysis with cutoff allocation
procedures, and compared the results to the life cycle of a traditional reference garment.
The study focuses on key categories of environmental impacts such as climate change
(greenhouse gas emissions), freshwater eutrophication, freshwater ecotoxicity, and human
toxicity (Peters, Sandin, Spak, & Roos, 2018). The results suggest that paper-based
clothing can compete with the reference item, particularly if customers discard the
reference item after only a few wears. However, it is important to note that this assumption
does not align with the typical or potential lifespan of the reference garment. The favorable
performance of paper-based garments is attributed to the reduced impacts during material
manufacturing and their lighter weight. The impacts from dye reprinting and laser
processing have limited overall influence on the extended long-life garments'
environmental performance.

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In other happenings, the EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles aims to enhance reuse and
recycling practices in Europe in line with the waste hierarchy, which prioritizes reuse over
recycling, even if the reuse occurs in other global regions. However, as the proportion of
non-reusable garments is expected to rise and the textile recycling sector in Europe is
undergoing rapid changes, the study by Trzepacz, et al., 2023 has conducted two
comparative life cycle assessments (LCAs): 1) Assessing the environmental benefits of
reuse compared to new production, and 2) Comparing the environmental impact of global
reuse to recycling within the EU. The LCA comparing reuse to new products revealed that
the environmental impact of reuse is significantly lower for all three garment qualities.
New garments have almost 70 times greater overall environmental impact and emit more
than 3 kg of CO2-equivalents compared to reused garments (Trzepacz, et al., 2023). The
primary environmental impact of new garments stems from fiber production, while reuse
has a minimal impact related to transportation. Despite transportation-related impacts, the
study supports a global market for reuse due to the relatively small impact compared to
new garment production. The LCA comparing reuse to recycling in Europe demonstrates
that reuse outperforms recycling in terms of environmental benefits for all three qualities.
However, if reuse does not substantially replace new garment production, recycling can
be slightly more environmentally beneficial.

Overall, the significance of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) in the fast fashion sector cannot
be overstated, as it offers a holistic comprehension of the environmental ramifications
linked to garments. LCA serves as a guiding mechanism for decision-making upholds eco-
design principles, advocates transparency, and empowers consumers to make well-
informed decisions. It stands as an indispensable instrument for promoting sustainability
and catalyzing constructive transformation within the fast fashion industry.

Ø Greater Consumer Awareness and Engagement

The heightened awareness of social and environmental issues has led to the widespread
recognition and adoption of sustainability as a significant trend across industries (Dabas
& Whang, 2022). This trend has been driven by consumers' increasing environmental

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consciousness, resulting in a greater demand for environmentally friendly products.
Research indicates that consumers' perception of sustainability and their ability to identify
unethical behaviors of fashion brands have significantly evolved (Auger, Devinney,
Louviere, & Burke, 2008). They have become more astute in navigating the market,
becoming less susceptible to green marketing claims and more discerning in their
purchasing decisions (Chen & Chang, 2013).

Consumers are actively seeking transparency in the fashion industry and are demanding
clear evidence and information regarding a brand's sustainability practices. They seek
assurance that a brand's sustainability claims align with their actual practices. Empirical
studies have shown that consumers are more likely to support brands that demonstrate
genuine commitments to sustainability (Auger, Devinney, Louviere, & Burke, 2008).
They hold accountable those brands that engage in greenwashing practices, which involve
misleading consumers about the environmental impact of their products or operations.
According to a survey carried out by Cone Communications, a significant majority of
American consumers, approximately 90%, express the expectation that companies should
engage in operations that safeguard and contribute to the welfare of both society and the
environment. Furthermore, when encountering deceptive business practices by a
company, as many as 88% of consumers indicate that they would discontinue purchasing
the firm's products. Additionally, 69% of consumers demonstrate their willingness to
express their views on a company's corporate social responsibility initiatives by actively
participating in reviewing and providing feedback on the company's website or blogs
(Cone Communications, 2017). The demand for transparency and authenticity has become
a key driver in consumer decision-making, prompting companies to be more open and
accountable about their sustainability efforts.

Ø Stricter Legislative System and Clearer Guidelines

The fast fashion industry can be substantially mitigated its adverse environmental and
societal impacts by enacting more stringent legal frameworks and implementing more
precise regulations. Governments and regulatory agencies possess the ability to exercise
enhanced control over the sector, fostering a shift towards environmentally sustainable

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practices through the enactment of legislation and the establishment of meticulous
standards. In accordance with the Circular Economy approach, many governments start
strengthening their regulatory systems as well as bolstering green initiatives. In 2020, the
French government passed the "Anti-Waste and Circular Economy Law", which includes
provisions to somehow address the environmental issues associated with fast fashion. The
law prohibits the destruction of unsold goods, encourages the use of eco-design principles,
promotes the recycling and reusing of textile waste, and requires transparency in labeling
to inform consumers about the environmental impact of products (French National
Assembly, 2020). Across the globe, the Japanese authorities have implemented green
procurement policies that encourage public institutions and organizations to prioritize
environmentally friendly products, including textiles and apparel. These policies promote
the procurement of sustainable and eco-friendly materials, driving the adoption of more
sustainable practices within the textiles industry (Ministry of the Environment, 2016).

These opportunities present pathways for the fast fashion industry to transition towards
more sustainable practices. Embracing these opportunities requires commitment,
collaboration, and a long-term perspective. By aligning sustainability with business
strategies, brands can drive positive change and contribute to a more sustainable future
for the fashion industry.

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V HOW TO GREEN THE GREENWASHERS?

V.1 Consumer Perception and Impact of Greenwashing

Customer perception refers to “the subjective understanding or interpretation of customers
regarding a product, service, or brand based on their sensory inputs, personal experiences,
and cognitive processes." (Kotler & Keller, Marketing Management, 2016). By another
definition, it is “the cognitive and affective process through which individuals select,
organize, and interpret information from the environment to create a meaningful and
coherent understanding of a product or service” (Solomon, 2019). Customer perception
can be positive or negative, or even vague.

Customer perception plays a crucial role in shaping customer behavior and decision-
making processes. The significance of customer perception lies in the fact that consumers
tend to prefer engaging with companies they have trust in. Establishing a positive rapport
with customers can result in increased leads and sales, thereby contributing to the long-
term success of a company. Furthermore, customer perception plays a pivotal role in
determining whether consumers remain loyal to a particular brand or switch to
competitors. By fostering favorable emotions and providing satisfying experiences,
businesses can encourage customers to engage in repeat purchases. Moreover, customers
who hold a brand in high regard and perceive it positively are more likely to recommend
its products or services to others, ultimately driving new sales.

Diving deeper into factors that may affect and frame customer perception, here are some
outstanding results from scholars:
• Past experiences: Each interaction between customers and the firm presents a
chance to influence their perception of that firm. Consistently providing positive
experiences can establish trust and foster customer loyalty (Indeed Editorial Team,
2023).

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 • Quality: Customers assess the perceived quality of a product or service based on
their experiences, expectations, and comparisons with competing offerings
(Zeithaml, 1988).
• Price: Customers evaluate the perceived value for money by considering the price
of a product or service in relation to its benefits and alternatives available in the
market (Monroe, 1990).
• Brand Image: Brand image and reputation significantly influence customer
perception. A strong brand image can create positive associations and build trust
and loyalty (Keller, 1993).
• Product Features: Customers assess the features, functionalities, and performance
of a product to determine its suitability for their needs and preferences (Olson,
1972).
• Social Influence: Opinions and recommendations from family, friends, or online
reviews can shape customer perception and influence their attitudes and behaviors
(Chevalier & Mayzlin, 2006).

In the context of fast fashion, consumer perception is mostly influenced by the claims and
marketing campaigns made by fashion brands about their sustainable and ethical practices.
One of the most useful means of delivering green messages is via mass communication
which allows the consumer access to increased information surrounding the latest trends
or styles (Barnes & Lea-Greenwood, 2006). Popular culture has a major influence on
shaping fashion trends and consumers, especially the young generation are typically
affected by music, film, television, and other media. However, if a brand is found to be
greenwashing, it can lead to a negative perception of the brand and a loss of consumer
trust.

Numerous studies have explored the influence of greenwashing on customer perception,

encompassing factors such as awareness, trust, skepticism, purchase intention, and brand
image. The majority of these studies have provided empirical evidence pointing to the
negative outcomes that brands may face when they engage in deceptive green practices

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without genuine commitments to sustainability. Greenwashing significantly influences
consumers' perceptions of an organization's communicative integrity in a negative manner
(De Jong, Harkink, & Barth, Making Green Stuff? Effects of Corporate Greenwashing on
Consumers, 2018). This finding aligns with previous research conducted by Lim, et al.
(2013) and Chen & Chang (2013), reinforcing the widely assumed association between
greenwashing practices of organizations and consumer skepticism towards corporate
social responsibility communication.

Remarkably, the empirical study conducted by Newell, Goldsmith, & Banzhaf (1998)
offers substantial evidence that establishes a connection between greenwashing and
unfavorable consumer attitudes. When consumers perceive an advertisement as
greenwashed, meaning they believe the environmental claims made by the company are
deceptive or exaggerated, they tend to form negative opinions about the company. This
negative perception stems from the sense of betrayal or deception experienced by
consumers when they discover that a company's environmental claims are not genuine.
Consumers who identify as "high" environmentalists, despite initial skepticism, are more
likely to fall for greenwashing and perceive products as sustainable compared to those
who identify as "low" environmentalists (Urbański & Haque, 2020). This indicates that
"green" consumers, despite their supposed heightened awareness, struggle to differentiate
between genuine sustainability and greenwashing. These findings highlight the enduring
impact of greenwashing on consumer perceptions and attitudes toward products,
underscoring its continued relevance in influencing consumer behavior. Moreover, the
study reveals that greenwashing not only affects consumer attitudes but also influences
purchase intentions. Consumers who perceive greenwashing in advertising are less likely
to intend to purchase products or services from the brand in question. The discrepancy
between the company's environmental claims and actual practices diminishes consumer
trust and confidence, leading to a reduced willingness to support the brand through
purchasing (Newell, Goldsmith, & Banzhaf, 1998).

Within the fast fashion sector, products exert a strong appeal to consumers who prioritize
fashion consumption and engage in impulsive buying behaviors (Lu, Sheng, Zhou, Shen,

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& Fang, 2022). Consequently, the purchasing decisions of fast fashion consumers may
not always follow a fully rational approach. There is a heightened risk that consumers
overlook the environmental implications associated with the fast fashion industry, thus
creating a fertile ground for deceptive green marketing practices by fast fashion
companies. In addition, fast fashion brands are susceptible to engaging in opportunistic
behaviors such as greenwashing (Kim & Oh, 2020). The research conducted by Lu and
Zheng (2022) explores that consumers' perception of greenwashing in the fast fashion
sector directly undermines their intention to make environmentally friendly purchases,
while also indirectly influencing this intention through the lens of perceived risk.
Furthermore, the presence of impulsive buying as a moderating variable amplifies the
positive effect of consumers' perception of greenwashing on their perception of financial
risk (Lu, Sheng, Zhou, Shen, & Fang, 2022).

V.2 Obstacles in Addressing Greenwashing

Ø Deficit of Regulatory Framework
As illustrated in the Driving Factors of Greenwashing, the lax regulatory environment is
the biggest obstacle to overcome for demolishing unfaithful sustainability practices.
Although some countries have implemented guidelines or regulations pertaining to
environmental claims, they may lack specificity and enforcement, thereby enabling
companies to employ deceptive green marketing tactics. For instance, the Federal Trade
Commission (FTC) in the United States has issued guidelines on environmental claims,
known as the Green Guides (Federal Trade Commission, n.d.). However, these guidelines
are voluntary and lack the binding power to deter greenwashing effectively. Similarly, the
European Union has established regulations such as the Consumer Protection Cooperation
Regulation and the Unfair Commercial Practices Directive, but their implementation and
enforcement vary across member states (European Commission, 2020). Without a robust
regulatory framework, fast fashion brands can exploit the ambiguity surrounding
environmental claims, making it challenging for consumers to discern genuinely
sustainable practices from greenwashing. Companies may use vague or misleading

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language, such as employing generic terms like "eco-friendly" or "green," without
providing substantial evidence to support their claims. Furthermore, the lack of strict
enforcement mechanisms allows companies to engage in deceptive practices with minimal
consequences. This undermines consumer trust and makes it difficult for ethical and
sustainable brands to differentiate themselves from those engaged in greenwashing.

Ø Lack of Transparency and Accountability

Transparency is essential for evaluating the veracity of a company's sustainability
promises and for empowering customers to make wise decisions. However, a lot of fast
fashion companies either withhold significant details about their manufacturing
procedures, supply chains, or environmental impact, or the information they do provide is
not independently verified or supported by available data. Consumers find it difficult to
grasp the full environmental and social impact of the products they buy since the fast
fashion sector lacks transparency. It is challenging to confirm claims made about ethical
labor methods, ecologically friendly products, and sustainable sourcing without access to
comprehensive information about a brand's supply chain. Notwithstanding, looking at the
problem from another perspective, when a brand genuinely intends to share information
throughout its supply chains, the intricate nature of those chains raises objections to
effectively managing data.

Related to the inadequacy of guidelines and standards, there is also a shortage of

independent certification. Independent certification is essential for confirming and
approving the sustainability claims made by businesses. It offers an objective evaluation
of a brand’s social and environmental performance, providing openness and
accountability. Fast fashion companies frequently have the freedom to decide which
certifications to pursue, allowing them to cherry-pick certifications that support their
marketing goals rather than those that fully represent their sustainability efforts (Hassan,
Shaukat, Abbas, & Ashraf, 2021). The credibility of these firms’ sustainability claims may
be undermined by their selective adoption of certifications, which can outcome in
confusion.

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 Ø Ambiguity of Sustainability Definition and Limited Consumer Awareness
The lack of a universally accepted definition and measures of sustainability in the fashion
industry makes it difficult for consumers to evaluate the environmental and social impact
of clothing brands accurately. Without clear guidelines, companies have more leeway to
engage in greenwashing practices by making vague or exaggerated sustainability claims
without sufficient evidence or accountability. According to a study by Mandaric ́, Hunjet,
& Kozina (2021), the fashion industry lacks a standardized understanding of
sustainability, leading to confusion among consumers and stakeholders. The study
emphasizes the need for a clear and comprehensive definition of sustainability in the
fashion context to promote transparency and facilitate informed decision-making
(Mandaric ́, Hunjet, & Kozina, 2021).

Besides, the limited knowledge and awareness among consumers regarding sustainable
practices and greenwashing tactics in the fast fashion industry present noticeable
obstacles. Many consumers are not fully informed about the environmental and social
impacts of the fashion industry, or the specific strategies employed by brands to appear
more sustainable. Research conducted by Joergens (2006) reveals that consumers'
understanding of sustainability in the context of fashion is often vague and lacks depth.
This limited knowledge creates an opportunity for fast fashion brands to engage in
greenwashing, using marketing techniques to portray themselves as more sustainable than
they actually are. Consumers who are unaware of greenwashing tactics may be easily
swayed by misleading claims and fail to recognize the absence of genuine sustainability
efforts.

Ø Short-term benefits of Greenwashing

Greenwashing presents fast fashion companies with immediate and visually appealing
outcomes, making it a difficult decision to turn down. As discussed in Section III.3.4, the
advantages of implementing greenwashing practices include creating a favorable brand
image, enhancing reputation, boosting sales revenue, and gaining a competitive advantage
over other players in the market. Given the highly competitive nature of the fast fashion
industry, certain brands may find it challenging to resist the allure of greenwashing. This

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mindset can perpetuate the cycle of greenwashing as companies feel compelled to utilize
deceptive marketing tactics to attract environmentally conscious consumers. The desire to
capitalize on the growing demand for sustainable products and appeal to the values of eco-
conscious customers further drives some fast fashion brands to engage in greenwashing
practices. This competitive pressure creates a challenging environment for genuinely
sustainable brands, as the deceptive marketing strategies employed by their competitors
can overshadow their authentic sustainability efforts. Nevertheless, again, all the
advantages brought by Greenwashing are just temporary and only effective in the short
term. Fast fashion brands that engage in greenwashing practices risk losing the trust and
loyalty of consumers, which can have detrimental effects on their sustainability and
profitability in the long run. As consumer awareness and scrutiny regarding sustainability
increase, brands that are caught engaging in deceptive marketing practices can face severe
consequences. Negative publicity, damage to brand reputation, and legal repercussions
are potential outcomes of greenwashing. In an era where consumers are demanding
transparency and authenticity, maintaining genuine sustainability efforts is crucial for the
long-term success of fashion brands.

V.3 Overcoming Obstacles and Implementing Changes

V.3.1 Enforcing regulatory frameworks and standards
In order to address this prevalent issue, there is a growing demand for reinforced
regulations and enforcement mechanisms in the fast fashion industry. In fact, governments
and authorities in many nations start making more impact by imposing policies to enhance
the transparency of environmental claims such as the Green Claims Directive of European
Commission or Green Claims Code of UK Competition and Markets Authority (CMA).
In the UK, CMA released guidance aimed at addressing misleading sustainability claims
(UK Competition & Market Authority, 2021). This initiative involves consulting with
businesses and consumers to gain a better understanding of how such claims are created
and perceived. The draft guidance outlines six key points to ensure the accuracy and
transparency of sustainability claims. These points emphasize the importance of

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truthfulness, clarity, and the inclusion of relevant information, as well as considering the
entire life cycle of the product or service. Similarly, in the Netherlands, the Authority for
Consumers and Markets (ACM) introduced "five rules of thumb" for sustainability claims
to help companies ensure that their claims are clear, accurate, and not misleading to
consumers (Authority for Consumers and Markets, 2021). In response to the launch of
these rules, the ACM initiated an investigation into 170 major local businesses, including
70 fashion brands, in May 2021 (Hendriksz, 2022). Those found guilty of greenwashing
could face significant fines, which may reach up to 900,000 euros per violation or a
percentage of their company turnover (Hendriksz, 2022). These penalties serve as a
substantial deterrent for brands engaging in deceptive greenwashing practices.
Meanwhile, in France, upcoming legislation scheduled for 2023 will mandate brands to
include "carbon labels" on clothing and textiles (Amed, André, Balchandani, Berg, &
Rölkens, 2022). These labels will provide consumers with an environmental "score"
ranging from A to E, enabling them to make more informed choices when purchasing
products (Amed, André, Balchandani, Berg, & Rölkens, 2022). The introduction of such
labeling requirements aims to empower consumers by providing them with transparent
information about the environmental impact of the items they buy.

As regards Sustainability Reporting – a type of non-financial reporting that allows

companies to communicate their advancements in various sustainability areas, the
Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) by the European Commission has
entered into force from January 2023. This updated directive enhances and modernizes
the regulations pertaining to the disclosure of social and environmental information by
companies. It expands the scope of reporting requirements to encompass a wider range of
large companies and listed SMEs, encompassing approximately 50,000 companies in total
(European Commission, 2023). These new rules aim to provide investors and stakeholders
with the necessary information to evaluate investment risks associated with climate
change and other sustainability factors. Additionally, they promote transparency regarding
companies' impacts on society and the environment. By standardizing the information to
be disclosed, the directive also aims to reduce reporting costs for companies in the medium
to long term.

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Despite trying to avoid Greenwashing, authorities and regulators can try to perceive this
phenomenon as a good opportunity to create a ripple effect, motivating other companies
to make genuine changes (Glavas, Grolleau, & Mzoughi, 2023). When regulators take
appropriate action, such as exposing and penalizing greenwashing practices, it can result
in significant improvements across the entire industry. As more companies embrace
genuine sustainability practices, it sets a higher standard and creates a competitive
environment where companies strive to outdo each other in terms of their environmental
commitments. Moreover, when regulators take decisive action against greenwashing, it
fosters consumer trust and confidence. Consumers are more likely to support and engage
with companies that are transparent and genuinely committed to sustainability. This, in
turn, can drive the market demand for sustainable products and services, further
incentivizing companies to prioritize genuine environmental practices.

V.3.2 Requiring Third-party verification

In order to effectively tackle the problem of Greenwashing in the fast fashion industry, it
is imperative to establish robust and independent certification schemes that are
specifically designed for this sector. These certification schemes should adhere to
stringent requirements and be supported by trustworthy third-party organizations that are
recognized for their expertise in sustainability and ethical practices. The introduction and
promotion of certification schemes in the fast fashion industry combat Greenwashing by
ensuring companies meet sustainability standards and verify their impact. The
independent certificates enable customers to make informed choices and support
businesses committed to transparency and ethics. They encourage fashion brands to
improve sustainability practices and reduce their environmental footprint. The stringent
requirements and ongoing monitoring associated with certifications incentivize
responsible approaches, driving positive change industry-wide. The establishment of
comprehensive certification schemes fosters trust and empowers customers to support
brands aligned with their values.

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For example, according to information published on Inditex’s website, Zara applies the
concept of Eco-Efficient Store into their global flagship stores which are certified by
LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) and Breeam® (Building
Research Establishment Environmental Assessment Methodology). Fortunately, fast
fashion brands have begun to prove their claims by earning well-known certifications in
the apparel industry like Bluesign, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Fair Trade
Certified and Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), etc.

V.3.3 Strengthening supply chain transparency

Supply chain transparency involves disclosing and making visible the entire production
process, from sourcing raw materials to manufacturing, distribution, and retail. This
transparency allows consumers and stakeholders to have a clear understanding of the
environmental and social impacts associated with each stage of the supply chain. Brands
should prioritize disclosing information about their supply chains, including the locations
of factories, labor standards, and environmental practices. Implementing independent
audits and certifications, such as those provided by organizations like the Fair Wear
Foundation or the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, can enhance transparency and
accountability. Plus, as aforementioned in Section III.4.2, utilizing technological
advancement like blockchain is also a good choice to improve transparent supply chains.
Otherwise, in fact, with more pressure from the legislative environment, fast fashion
companies are pushed to follow the greener path.

V.3.4 Empowering consumers through information access

From the customer’s aspect, preventing Greenwashing should begin with the
acknowledgment of what it is. Empowering consumers with knowledge allows them to
make conscious decisions and consider the broader implications of their fashion choices
(Cheeseman, 2016). In addition, educating consumers about the environmental and social
impacts of their purchasing patterns enables them to identify greenwashers and support
genuinely sustainable brands. This can lead to a shift in consumer behavior, with a
growing demand for sustainable and ethical fashion. As that demand increases, brands are

75
incentivized to adapt their practices and offer more sustainable options, leading to positive
change in the industry (Cheeseman, 2016).

In order to give more information access to consumers, there are some potential practices
such as:
• Public Awareness Campaigns: Governments, NGOs, and industry associations can
launch public awareness campaigns to educate consumers about greenwashing
practices and provide guidelines on how to identify and avoid them. These
campaigns can utilize various channels, such as social media, advertisements, and
events, to reach a wide range of audiences and promote sustainable consumption.
For example, The Anti-greenwashing Campaign by Two Sides North America
successfully convinced over 1,000 companies, government agencies, and other
organizations to eliminate unsupported environmental assertions concerning paper
products (Two Sides North America, n.d.).
• Transparency Initiatives: Brands can take proactive measures to enhance
transparency and educate consumers about their sustainability efforts. This can
include providing detailed information about their supply chain, sourcing
practices, environmental certifications, and social responsibility initiatives.
Transparency reports and labels can help consumers understand a brand's
commitment to sustainability and make informed choices. Every year, the
organization Fashion Revolution reviews and ranks around the 250 largest fashion
companies based on the information disclosure of their policies, practices, and
impacts on society and the environment within the firms’ operations and supply
chains. The Fashion Transparency Index is created to serve as a mechanism to
motivate and incentivize major fashion brands worldwide to enhance their
disclosure regarding their social and environmental initiatives (Fashion
Revolution, 2022).
• Sustainable Fashion Events, Webinars and Workshops: Organizing events,
workshops, and seminars focused on sustainable fashion can help raise consumer
awareness. These events can feature discussions on the environmental impact of

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 fast fashion, ethical production practices, and sustainable alternatives. Engaging
consumers directly through interactive sessions can effectively convey the
importance of making conscious fashion choices.
• Digital technology: Mobile apps, websites, and other digital platforms can provide
real-time information about a product's sustainability credentials, allowing
consumers to make informed choices while shopping. Additionally, social media
and online communities can facilitate knowledge-sharing and awareness
campaigns, enabling consumers to engage in discussions and advocacy for
sustainable practices. Social media serves as the predominant platform for
accessing information and presents a powerful opportunity for brands and
individuals to leverage their influence in raising awareness and gaining
recognition, particularly due to the significant influx of online users (Bennetta &
Hill, 2022).
• Collaboration with Influencers and Advocates: Collaborating with influencers,
bloggers, and sustainability advocates can amplify the message of consumer
education and awareness as social network can reach large quantity of viewers.
These individuals can use their platforms (Instagram, Youtube, or TikTok, etc.) to
share information, promote sustainable brands, and encourage consumers to
prioritize sustainable fashion.

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VI APPLICATIVE PART: H&M Garment Collecting Program

VI.1 The overall picture of H&M

H&M Group or Hennes & Mauritz AB is a multinational retail-clothing company,
founded in 1947 and headquartered in Sweden (H&M Group, n.d.). The company owns
six distinct brands: H&M, COS, Monki, Weekday, Cheap Monday, and & Other Stories.
As a giant in the fast fashion sector, H&M's business model revolves around offering
massive quantities of fashionable products at affordable prices, catering to a diverse range
of styles and preferences. Their collections encompass various categories, including
women's, men's, children's, and home prod ucts, ensuring a comprehensive shopping
experience for its customers. With a strong presence in several countries on every
continent, H&M has established itself as a go-to destination for fashion-conscious
consumers around the world. The company's success lies in its ability to quickly respond
to evolving fashion trends, making fashionable and affordable products accessible to a
broad customer base. H&M operates an extensive network of retail stores, with thousands
of locations worldwide. Its stores are strategically positioned in prime shopping
destinations, ensuring convenience and accessibility for customers. In addition to its
physical stores, H&M also operates a robust online platform, enabling customers to shop
for their favorite styles from the comfort of their homes. As of 2023, H&M Group has
around 4,414 stores in 79 markets with online sales in 58 markets (H&M Group, n.d.).
Until now, it can be said that H&M is one of the largest fashion retailers in the world
following the low-cost principle (Fashionabc, n.d.) and the redoubtable opponent to other
firms like Inditex, ASOS or GAP Inc.

Based on the publicly available information on the H&M website along with the
movement of the global economy, a brief SWOT Analysis is conducted in order to have
better insights into the company. The fully analyzed version of SWOT is displayed in the
Appendix Section.

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 Strengths
- Global Presence
- Trend Adoption & Affordability
- Digital Strategy
- Sustainability Initiatives
- Marketing & Advertising
- Collaborations & Partnerships
Opportunities
- Exploitation of E-commerce
- Ethical & Sustainable Fashion
- Extension to Emerging Markets
- Diversification & Innovation of
Product
- Technology Integration
Weaknesses
- Fast Fashion Controversy
- Supply Chain Traceability
- Limited Product Differentiation
- Quality Concerns
- Seasonal Inventory Management
- Over-dependence on Outsourcing
Threats
- Economic Recession
- Intense Competition
- Regulatory Changes
- Swing of Customer Preference
- Counterfeit Products
- Supply Chain Disruption

H&M's vision and strategic approach encompass all of their brands, while still allowing
each brand to maintain its unique identity. With a longstanding commitment to
sustainability, H&M recognizes the need for a more targeted and concerted effort in light
of projected population growth and natural resource constraints. As an industry leader,
H&M assumes the responsibility to drive innovation, influence industry practices, foster
collaboration, and pave the way toward a truly sustainable future for fashion. This vision
aligns not only with social and environmental imperatives but also with sound business
principles. By making long-term investments in sustainability, H&M Group ensures its
relevance and success in an ever-evolving world. The company has set ambitious targets,
aiming to achieve climate positivity by 2040 and utilize only sustainable or recycled
materials by 2030 (H&M Group, n.d.).

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 VI.2 Green Acts of H&M

“Big change requires bold actions and the courage to aim high. At the same time, we
have to be humble to the challenges our planet is facing. So, if we want to make real
change, we have to be brave, push the boundaries and not be afraid to fail”.
Anna Gedda, Former Head of Sustainability (H&M Group, 2019)
Acknowledging the environmental impact of the fashion industry, H&M Group has placed
sustainability at the forefront of its business strategy. H&M is also committed to driving
transformative change in the fashion industry by embracing a circular and renewable
approach while upholding principles of fairness and equality. With their substantial size
and influence, H&M aims to inspire systemic shifts not only within their own operations
but also throughout their entire value chain and the broader industry. By prioritizing the
principles of the circular economy, responsible water usage, and addressing climate
change, H&M remains dedicated to delivering exceptional fashion and design options that
resonate with their customers, both now and in the future.

Figure 3: Sustainability Strategies of H&M (H&M Group, 2022)

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In the latest “H&M Group Sustainability Disclosure 2022”, the firm announced their
intention of developing a roadmap of a “circular ecosystem” that aspires to the Ellen
McArthur Foundation’s vision for a circular fashion industry. The dream ecosystem of
H&M rests on three pillars:
• Circular Products: Producing long-lasting products utilizing safe, recyclable, and
more sustainably sourced materials that are (i.e., those that are either naturally
grown, farmed, or produced through renewable methods) that can circulate many
times.
• Circular Supply Chains: Constructing scalable systems that utilize lower-impact
production techniques, such as dying, printing, and finishing, and circulate goods
and materials for repair, reuse, and recycling.
• Circular Customer Journeys: Providing accessible opportunities for consumers to
experience and participate in a circular fashion, in which things are used more,
repaired, reused, and recycled.

In 2022, H&M achieved some outstanding sustainability figures like a 7% absolute

reduction in scope 3 GHG emissions and an 8% absolute reduction in scope 1 & 2 GHG
emissions compared with the 2019 baseline or reaching 414,000 supply chain workers
with activities and training on gender-based violence and sexual harassment (H&M
Group, 2022). The brand is putting more effort to respond to the environmental and social
consequences associated with fast fashion culture. Over the past years, H&M has taken
many green initiatives such as Jean Redesign, Rental services, Second-hand Initiatives,
Garment-to-Garment Recycling Program, investments in sustainable materials, etc.

VI.3 Garment Collecting Program

One notable initiative by H&M is its clothing collection program, which was the first of
its kind globally. Garment Collecting Program with the message “Let’s close the loop”
has been initiated since 2013 (H&M, n.d.). It has been widely recognized for its efforts to

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maximize the reuse as well as recycling of textiles and to promote a more sustainable
approach to fashion. The retailer recognizes the significant potential of reusing textiles,
stating that up to 95 percent of discarded textiles can be repurposed (Brown, 2021). By
offering convenient drop-off points at their stores and incentivizing participation with
discounts, H&M inspires customers to actively contribute to the recycling process and
embrace circularity in the fashion industry.

Ø How it works:
Consumers are encouraged to bring any unwanted clothes or textiles to one of H&M
stores. In an interview with The Guardian in 2013, Cecilia Brannsten who is a project
manager in H&M's sustainability team said that the Swedish retailer would accept
garments from any brand, regardless of their condition: "So we will accept everything
from old washed-out T-shirts to underwear to the one sock that you can never find the
other pair to” (Balch, 2013). After dropping off the pre-loved items in the garment
collecting boxes, consumers will receive a thank-you coupon of 15% for the next purchase
at H&M (H&M, n.d.). Regarding the collected clothes, H&M’s business partner I:Collect,
a global recycling company, will take over and sort those garments into three categories:
Rewear (The wearable garments are promoted and sold as secondhand clothing), Reuse
(In cases where the clothes or textiles are not suitable for re-wear, they are transformed
into alternative products, such as remake collections or cleaning cloths), and Recycle (The
remaining clothes and textiles are shredded into textile fibers, which are then utilized in
the production of various items, including insulation materials).

Ø Results:
In 2018, H&M reported collecting a remarkable 20,649 tons of textiles for reuse and
recycling, a 16% increase compared to the previous year, equivalent to approximately 103
million T-shirts (H&M Group, 2018). By far, as declared on the website, the total amount
of textiles that H&M has received since the program was initiated is over 155,000 tons
(H&M Group, n.d.). Besides, I:Collect, the organization responsible for managing
donations on behalf of H&M and other prominent retailers, states that approximately 35

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percent of the collected items are recycled and repurposed for various products, such as
carpet padding, painters' cloths, or insulation (Matteis & Agro, 2018).

Ø Opinions about the program

With respect to the brand’s viewpoint, in the 2013 interview with The Guardian, Ms.
Brannsten, the Sustainability manager of H&M characterized the program as a completely
novel initiative for the company, focusing on providing a service rather than solely selling
products (Balch, 2013). While there is an implicit sales aspect through the voucher
incentive, the primary aim is non-profit. She noted that the generated revenues will be
allocated towards covering H&M's operational expenses, and any surplus will be directed
to the company's Conscious Foundation, supporting research on achieving full
recyclability of textiles, also known as closed-loop materials.

The public’s attitudes vary among different stakeholders. Some view it as a positive
initiative that encourages customers to recycle their unwanted clothes and contribute to a
more sustainable fashion industry. Utilizing its marketing and branding prowess, H&M
effectively spreads the message of recycling through various social media platforms such
as Youtube, TikTok, and Instagram. Influencers from around the world create videos of
varying lengths to promote H&M's Garment Collecting Program, highlighting the added
benefit of receiving a discount coupon. While the effectiveness of the program in
addressing recycling concerns remains debatable, it undeniably succeeds in increasing
consumer awareness of sustainability initiatives. The existing literature emphasizes the
significance of green marketing and consumer awareness in driving sustainable agendas
(Awan, Green Marketing: Marketing Strategies for the Swedish Energy Companies, 2011)
(Awan & Raza, 2012). By presenting products as environmentally friendly, even if not
fully substantiated, companies like H&M expose consumers and stakeholders to green
arguments, consequently raising their consciousness about environmental issues (Bowen,
2014). Indeed, “normalizing greenness can help the environment” (Glavas, Grolleau, &
Mzoughi, 2023).

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The study by Choi, Guo, Ho, & Li (2015) concurs with the notion that the Used Garment
Collecting (UGC) program can be seen as an integral component of fast-fashion
companies' corporate social responsibility initiatives, devoted to the enhancement of their
corporate image. This paper aims to examine the impact of fast-fashion retailers' UGC
programs on brand awareness and brand image among young consumers with the target
respondents who are college students in Hong Kong. By quantitative testing, the authors
conclude that consumers exhibit a favorable brand attitude towards fast-fashion brands,
particularly in terms of being human-oriented, thoughtful, and approachable, when these
brands implement UGC programs. The implementation of UGC programs by fast-fashion
brands undoubtedly contributes to a positive brand image, which serves as a competitive
advantage in the industry by enabling them to capture a larger market share and achieve
higher profit margins. Fast-fashion retailers can effectively utilize their UGC programs to
differentiate themselves from competitors by emphasizing their commitment to
environmental protection (Choi, Guo, Ho, & Li, 2015).

Nevertheless, the H&M Garment Collecting program has received some criticism from
skeptics who question its true impact on sustainability and view it as a potential
greenwashing strategy. These critics argue that the program's focus on recycling and
collecting garments may distract from the larger issue of overconsumption and fail to
address the underlying environmental problems associated with fast fashion. They
contend that while recycling is important, it should not overshadow the need for reducing
overall consumption and addressing the root causes of environmental degradation in the
fashion industry. They raise concerns that programs like H&M's Garment Collecting may
create the perception of sustainability without truly addressing the industry's excessive
production and consumption patterns. Maxine Bedat, the co-founder and CEO of Zady,
an online company specializing in “slow fashion”, concurs with the notion that addressing
the issue of overproduction in the fashion industry is crucial (Chhabra, 2015). While
acknowledging the importance of closing the loop in the fashion supply chain, Bedat
emphasizes that the primary challenge lies in the excessive production of clothing. With
an estimated 150 billion garments produced annually and each piece being worn only a
mere seven times, she asserts that even if the items are part of a circular system, the overall

84
carbon footprint and environmental impact remain substantial. Bedat proposes a solution
rooted in a timeless concept: purchasing high-quality garments and reducing the frequency
of consumption.

Apart from that, the critics also question whether H&M is fueling consumerism with this
green initiative. In order to further encourage customer participation in the garment
collection program, the brand provides an additional incentive in the form of a 15%
discount card for each bag of textiles dropped off (H&M, n.d.). This innovative approach
creates a mutually beneficial scenario, commonly referred to as a "win-win" situation. On
one hand, H&M’s sustainability efforts are widely recognized by the public, thus
enhancing its brand image and reputation. On the other hand, customers are rewarded with
a discount that can be applied to their next in-store purchase, providing them with a
tangible benefit for their participation in the program. Tasha Lewis, a professor at Cornell
University's Department of Fiber Science and Apparel Design, when conducting an
interview with the nonprofit media organization NPR, said: “If you bring it back to the
store and you see something new and you're going to give me a discount, I'm having a
buying moment I may not have had before because you're having me back at your store.
It's very smart in terms of business.” (Tan, 2016). This strategy not only fosters a sense of
goodwill between the brand and its customers but also reinforces the notion that
sustainable actions can be rewarding and economically advantageous. By intertwining
environmental responsibility with consumer incentives, H&M is able to effectively
engage and motivate individuals to participate in their garment collection program.

Marketplace, Canada’s consumer watchdog series by CBC News, produced a

documentary that reveals “what really happens to old clothes dropped in those in-store
recycling bins” (Matteis & Agro, 2018). The reporter team of Marketplace investigated
the advertising video “H&M Conscious: Bring it on” which includes bold recycling
messages like “Shred it into fibers and stitch into something new”, or “Let's tear your
jeans into pieces and make new jeans out of them”. All the interviewees after watching
the ads were asked what would happen to the old clothes donated and they believed that
the brand would produce new clothing items out of the old ones. Bringing the same

85
question to the environmentalist Elizabeth Cline, she held a skeptical attitude toward
H&M’s motivation for that take-back program and stated the fact that only 1% of garments
was recycled to make new things. In terms of taking fibers to break them down and turning
them back into new fiber, it is too challenging to recycle because lots of garments are
made of blended materials. Furthermore, recycling cotton and wool might diminish the
quality of that material, thus weakening the cotton/ wool strands. In addition, Claudia
Marsales who is the senior manager of Waste and Environmental Management at
Markham City, presented her negative point of view about fast fashion retailers that they
are doing a bit of back-end recycling, a bit of commercial but it really does not address
the issue while the business model energizes “disposable” culture. From the half end of
the documentary, focusing on the collected/ donated garments, Marketplace Reporter
Team found out that the majority of the “theoretically recycled” textiles were baled and
exported to developing countries, primarily in the Global South, where they often end up
in landfills.

H&M is currently facing a legal dispute over allegations of false and misleading
sustainability marketing (Chelsea Commodore v. H&M Hennes & Mauritz LP, 2022). The
class-action lawsuit, initiated by Chelsea Commodore, a resident of New York state,
claims that H&M, despite being a prominent fast-fashion retailer, has engaged in
deceptive practices by leveraging a comprehensive marketing strategy to promote its
products as environmentally friendly, targeting the growing conscious consumer segment.
Commodore asserts that H&M's sustainability labeling, marketing, and advertising tactics
are intentionally designed to mislead consumers through the use of fabricated
environmental sustainability profiles. The lawsuit further alleges that H&M has made
misleading statements about the sustainable nature of its products, including false claims
about the company's ability to close the loop and prevent textiles from being discarded in
landfills through its recycling program. According to the lawsuit, H&M has created an
illusion that old garments are easily transformed into new ones or that they will not
contribute to landfill waste. However, the lawsuit argues that recycling solutions either do
not exist or are not widely available at a scale that can accommodate the majority of
H&M's products. Additionally, Commodore contends that given H&M's high sales

86
volume, it would take the company more than ten years to recycle the amount of clothing
it sells in just a matter of days (Sierra, 2022).

In summary, it is undeniable that sustainability initiatives and campaigns of fast fashion

giants like H&M can totally attract the attention of the public. Heavily invested in
marketing, this Garment Collecting Program has become a hot topic for consumers to
discuss whether it is a genuinely green or greenwashing practice. Though the information
access for all stakeholders is improved, several studies have indicated that consumers
struggle to recognize greenwashed advertisements as deceptive (Krafft, 2014) (Newell,
Goldsmith, & Banzhaf, 1998). When presented with environmentally neutral or
greenwashed advertisements, consumers tend to perceive the brands as more
environmentally friendly, even if they are greenwashed (Krafft, 2014). Interestingly,
exposure to greenwashed advertisements has been found to increase the likelihood of
consumers purchasing the advertised product (Krafft, 2014). Notwithstanding, Newell,
Goldsmith, & Banzhaf (1998) has found no correlation between environmental concern
and the ability to identify misleading environmental advertisements.

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VII CONCLUSION

VII.1 Key findings

The market of fast fashion is very promising and is forecasted to grow at a compound
annual growth rate (CAGR) of 10.7% and achieve a valuation of $184.96 billion by the
year 2027 (Research and Markets, 2023). However, fast fashion with the characteristics
of high production volume, quick trend adoption as well as competitive pricing comes at
considerably high environmental and social costs. There are a lot of challenges that brands
have to confront when committing to the sustainability roadmap. Therefore, to decelerate
fast fashion, much-concerted efforts of all stakeholders are required to resolve the pressing
problem such as overconsumption, supply chain transparency, or excessive waste
generation. The circular economy is the ideal approach that can materially assist in the
sustainable transformation of the fast fashion sector. Fortunately, technological
advancements become extremely helpful in the innovation of production processes and
supply chain management. Moreover, greater consumer engagement and stricter
regulatory guidelines open up opportunities to slow down fast fashion.

Greenwashing which is emerging as a result of the increase in environmental awareness

refers to the practice of companies making misleading or false claims about their
environmental efforts or sustainability practices in order to appear more environmentally
friendly than they actually are. The primary motive for greenwashing in the fast fashion
field in particular and in the textiles industry as a whole is the shortage of regulations and
frameworks, which is confirmed by previous studies. The absence of appropriate
legislation exacerbates the prevalence of greenwashing, which involves companies
making vague or unsupported assertions about their environmentally friendly initiatives
without facing significant consequences. Greenwashing may offer short-term advantages,
but the potential negative outcomes, including loss of trust, adverse publicity, and legal
repercussions, can outweigh these benefits. The fashion industry must recognize that in
today's era of heightened consumer consciousness and scrutiny, maintaining authentic

88
sustainability practices is crucial for long-term profitability and success. To mitigate
greenwashing, the top priority is enforcing legislative systems along with requiring
independent certifications. Furthermore, educating consumers and empowering them with
information access is the key to overcoming greenwashing.

As for the applicative part, the question of whether H&M's Garment Collecting Program
is a greenwashing practice or a genuinely green initiative is a topic of debate and
contention. The Program has both proponents and critics. Proponents argue that the
program showcases H&M's commitment to sustainability by encouraging clothing
recycling and promoting circularity. They emphasize the brand's partnerships and efforts
to reduce textile waste. However, critics contend that the program may be a form of
greenwashing, diverting attention from the larger issues of overconsumption and
environmental degradation in fast fashion. They question the program's scalability and
effectiveness, expressing concerns about the fate of collected garments and the actual
percentage of materials recycled. It is essential to note that assessing the true nature of
H&M's Garment Collecting Program requires a comprehensive analysis of the company's
sustainability practices, supply chain transparency, and the actual environmental impact
of their initiatives. The interpretation of the program as greenwashing or a genuine green
initiative can vary based on individual perspectives, the available evidence, and the
specific criteria used to evaluate sustainability efforts in the fashion industry.

VII.2 Recommendations
Fast fashion and greenwashing are indeed two contentious topics that each have
significant environmental and social implications. Fast fashion, characterized by its rapid
production and consumption of inexpensive clothing, contributes to resource depletion,
pollution, and unethical labor practices. On the other hand, greenwashing involves
companies making misleading or unsubstantiated claims about their environmental
efforts, which can deceive consumers and undermine genuine sustainability initiatives.

89
When these two issues intersect, the challenges they pose become even more complex.
Greenwashing in the fast fashion sector intensifies the burdens faced by governments,
consumers, and companies alike. Governments may struggle to regulate and enforce
sustainability standards, especially if companies employ deceptive marketing tactics.
Consumers, seeking to make ethical choices, may find it challenging to distinguish
between genuinely sustainable brands and those engaged in greenwashing. Companies
themselves may face reputational damage, legal consequences, and loss of consumer trust
if they are exposed for greenwashing practices.

The consequences of greenwashing in fast fashion extend beyond immediate concerns.

By misleading consumers and diverting attention away from the urgent need for genuine
sustainability efforts, greenwashing hampers progress in achieving long-term
sustainability goals. Without active engagement from all stakeholders, including
governments, companies, consumers, and advocacy groups, the fight against
greenwashing in the fast fashion industry will be hindered.

Addressing greenwashing within fast fashion necessitates a multi-faceted approach that

tackles the issue from various angles. This may include implementing clear regulations
and standards, fostering transparency and disclosure, promoting third-party certifications,
encouraging collaboration and partnerships, educating consumers about greenwashing
practices, conducting independent auditing, and fostering ethical marketing practices. By
combining these strategies, it is possible to challenge greenwashing, promote
accountability, and create an environment where genuine sustainability efforts can thrive.

Ultimately, combating greenwashing in the fast fashion industry requires a collective

effort and the active involvement of all stakeholders. Only by working together can we
overcome the challenges posed by greenwashing and foster a more sustainable and
responsible fashion industry.

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 VII.3 Suggestions for future research
Greenwashing in Fast fashion has quite a modest number of scholars interested, in order
to fill in the gap, there are some proposals for further investigation in the field:
• Regulatory Frameworks and Policy Analysis: Analyze existing regulatory
frameworks and policies related to greenwashing in the fast fashion industry.
Evaluate the effectiveness of current regulations in deterring and penalizing
greenwashing practices and propose potential enhancements or new policy
measures to foster genuine sustainability practices.
• Quantitative Analysis: Conduct a comprehensive analysis to quantify the extent
and prevalence of greenwashing in the fast fashion industry. This can involve
evaluating the sustainability claims and practices of a large sample of fast fashion
brands and assessing the degree of greenwashing through content analysis of
marketing materials and disclosures.
• Impact Assessment: Assess the environmental and social impacts of greenwashing
in the fast fashion industry. Investigate the consequences of misleading
sustainability claims on resource consumption, pollution, waste generation, and
labor practices. This research can help quantify the true extent of harm caused by
greenwashing and highlight the urgency for effective interventions.

91
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 APPENDIX

SWOT ANALYSIS OF H&M

Strengths
- Global Presence: With a wide-reaching network of brick-and-mortar stores and a
robust online presence, H&M has established a formidable presence, spanning
across 79 countries. This extensive global reach grants the brand access to diverse
markets and enables them to cater to a wide range of consumer preferences.
- Trend Adoption & Affordability: H&M's agility in responding to emerging trends
and swiftly bringing them to market has positioned it as a favored option for
budget-conscious consumers seeking fashionable clothing. The firm is able to
offer new items at competitive pricing points thanks to its effective supply chain
control, design proficiency, and streamlined production procedures.
- Digital Strategy: The brand has made substantial investments in building a robust
online presence, ensuring accessibility of its e-commerce platforms across various
markets. This strategic decision allows the company to effectively engage with
customers who prioritize online shopping convenience and adapt to changing
consumer trends in the digital era.
- Sustainability Initiatives: H&M has taken substantial measures to address the
environmental impact of the apparel sector by establishing sustainability
objectives, carrying out recycling programs, and boosting investments in
sustainable materials. These proactive actions not only facilitate creating a more
sustainable future but also enable the brand to stand out among consumers who
care about the environment, enhancing its reputation.
- Marketing and Advertising: H&M has earned acclaim for its inventive marketing
strategies that leverage social media, influencers, and conventional advertising to
successfully engage with consumers and establish a robust brand identity.
- Collaborations and Partnerships: Alexander Wang, Balmain, and Stella
McCartney are just a few of the well-known designers and stars with whom H&M

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 has had successful collaborations in the past. These partnerships generate interest,
bring in new clients, and showcase that H&M is capable of offering high-fashion
items at a reasonable price.

Weaknesses
- Fast Fashion Controversy: Fast-fashion retailers like H&M have come under fire
for their business models since they promote excessive consumption that damages
the environment and generates a lot of waste. The reputation of the business might
deteriorate as a result of this adverse view, especially among customers who are
growing more environmentally aware.
- Supply Chain Traceability: H&M has been subject to scrutiny regarding labor
policies within the supply chain, specifically pertaining to inadequate salaries and
unfavorable working conditions in garment manufacturing factories. These ethical
concerns have led to a tarnished brand image for the company.
- Limited Product Differentiation: Given the inherent characteristics of fast fashion
that rely on the runway or high-end brands’ design, H&M's merchandise
occasionally lacks distinctiveness and differentiation, presenting a challenge for
the brand to distinguish itself in a highly competitive market.
- Quality Concerns: In order to uphold affordability, products of H&M might
occasionally be perceived as having poorer quality in comparison to rivals. Such
perception can influence customer satisfaction levels and potentially impact brand
loyalty.
- Seasonal Inventory Management: Inventory management for a fast-fashion
retailer like H&M can be complicated because of the rapid turnover of styles and
the need to quickly respond to new trends. The accumulation of excess inventory
can result in significant markdowns and diminished profitability for the retailer.
- Over-dependence on Outsourcing: Rather than conducting in-house
manufacturing, H&M predominantly relies on the outsourcing of production to
over 900 independent suppliers situated in Europe and Asia (The Strategy Story,

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 n.d.). Although this approach has played a role in the company's achievements, it
also exposes H&M to the potential influence and control of its suppliers.

Opportunities
- Exploitation of E-commerce: H&M still needs to catch up to other fashion shops
like Zara in terms of fully utilizing e-commerce channels and making money from
online sales. In order to better satisfy the rising demand for online shopping, H&M
can continue to invest in and grow its e-commerce capabilities. The business may
reach a larger audience and boost revenues by improving its online visibility and
user experience.
- Sustainable and Ethical Fashion: H&M has the potential to leverage the rising
consumer demand for sustainable and ethically manufactured garments by
dedicating more resources to sustainable materials, production techniques, and
transparent supply chains. Such investments can contribute to enhancing brand
reputation and attracting environmentally aware customers.
- Extension to Emerging Markets: H&M has the option to explore potential avenues
for expansion and advancement in developing markets, particularly in regions
experiencing a growing middle class and increasing disposable income. This
strategic move can assist in diversifying the revenue streams of H&M and
accessing untapped customer segments.
- Diversification and Innovation of Product: H&M has the opportunity to further
broaden its range of products in order to cater to a wide array of consumer
preferences and requirements. This may involve venturing into new product
categories such as activewear, plus-size apparel, or sustainable fashion collections
to meet the diverse needs of customers.
- Technology Integration: H&M can consider possibilities for utilizing
technological advancement in its retail stores, supply chain management, and
customer experience. This could involve incorporating features such as virtual
fitting rooms, AI-driven recommendations, and utilizing data analytics to enhance
inventory management and optimization.

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Threats
- Economic Recession: During economic recessions, fashionable clothing and
accessories, including designer clothes, footwear, and underwear, are often
considered luxury items rather than necessities. As a result, fashion retailers like
H&M are likely to face significant declines in both sales and profits and in some
cases, they may even face the risk of going out of business. Economic downturns
tend to cause a decrease in consumer expenditure, affecting the retail industry as a
whole, including H&M. Consequently, H&M may experience lower sales, store
closures, and increased challenges with managing inventory.
- Intense Competition: In the fiercely competitive fashion retail sector, there is
intense rivalry among various worldwide and regional players striving to gain
market dominance. H&M faces stiff competition from fast-fashion rivals like Zara,
Primark, and Forever 21, along with strong e-commerce players such as Amazon
and ASOS. This competitive landscape imposes challenges such as pricing
pressures, reduced profit margins, and the continuous requirement for innovation
in order to stay ahead.
- Regulatory Changes: As H&M operates across numerous countries, it is subject to
diverse labor policies, environmental standards, and taxation regulations. Any
alterations in regulations or heightened scrutiny can lead to increased costs for
ensuring compliance or potential penalties imposed on the company.
- Swing of Customer Preference: As consumers become more environmentally and
socially aware, there is a growing likelihood that they will choose sustainable and
ethically manufactured clothing. This shift in consumer preferences could
potentially have an adverse impact on the demand for clothing, necessitating H&M
to alter its business model and product offerings accordingly.
- Counterfeit Products: The fashion industry is susceptible to counterfeit activities,
posing a risk to brand reputation and sales revenues of H&M. The widespread
availability of counterfeit products can result in customer confusion, reduced sales,
and even potential legal conflicts.

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- Supply Chain Disruption: H&M's reliance on a global supply chain exposes the
company to potential disruptions arising from factors such as geopolitical tensions,
trade disputes, natural disasters, or pandemics. These disruptions can result in
heightened production costs, delays in operations, and the risk of harming the
brand's reputation.

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 LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 1: Growth of clothing sales and decline in clothing utilization since 2000
Figure 2: Drivers of Greenwashing
Figure 3: Sustainability Strategies of H&M

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