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TT 520
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TT 520
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c°»vi iS-MAKINC AND TAILORING
MADE EASY.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1890, by

A. E. BEARRIE,
|
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

A^^PI\|TrO \iii A. mTCr\ —we want both Ladies and Gentlemen in all parts
^^^^"'^ * ^ WWA^Ill Cl^s
I of the United States to represent our business.

All mail should be addressed to A. E. BEARRIE, 1220 Olive St., St. Louis, Mo.

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MANAGER.
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;^,.0T DRESS
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1220 OLIVK STREET,

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ST. LOUIS, JVIO.

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COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE ART OF I

1 CUTTING ALL KINDS OF GARMENTS.
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Wl'.UK are thousands and tlioiisands of used it that has not praised liolh its simplicity .nnd the
(lollais nniiiially spcnl, in tliis country' |)erfeetness f)f its work.
for llio (iilling and niakiiiij; of gar- We arc in receipt daily of testiuionial letters fioin
ments, llipreliy makinp; a great expense all parts of the country. We have never sold one
u|)on every household that shouUl not that has not given jierfect satisfaclion.
exist, but tlic expense, lime required There are many systems of cutting in use, l)ul ail
to learn, and the intricacies of the more or less imperfect in their work, and these cutting
systems of cutting heretofore in use, but very few g.arments, most of them, but one bascjue,
have placed it so far beyond tiie reacii and that in many cases only to the waist line.
of families tiial tiie kno\vle<lge, to be efficient in the Our system covers tiie entire field of cutting. We
art of cutting, lias been almost out of the question. cut not only one garment l)ut every garment worn by
As it costs many dollars to learn anything of it at ladies, gentlemen and children. No matter what it is
all and months of time and studj'. our system outs it.
Then it could not easily lie done; new calculations It is based upon the (inest scientific principles known,
must be made for every different garment, and it ke|)t whicii ai'e used in all mechanical work, and therefore
the parly who learned it in a constant study in order liasing our work upon llie only correct methods of

to cut witiiany aceuracj' whatever. measurements and calculatiojis which are used by all
The art through these disadvantages has only been classes of irechanics we have been able to produce a
learned by those who wished to make the art of gar- correct scientific work.
ment cutting a profession. Ver}' few ladies outside And it requires but a few moments for us to prove
of those making it a profession thoroughly understand thatwhat we saj' is true.

garment cutting. In fact 1)ut very few know anytiiing We do not insist by any means that ever}' one shall
of it at all. learn our work, but there are a great many ladies idling
While the ladies are not to Itlame on account of the away hour after hour of time whocoidd, if they knew
disadvantages they must go through in order to be how to cut and fit the garments for the family, save a
enal)led to do cutting. great expense upon the household and turn their idle
Yet this should not be so. Evei'y lad}', young or hours into pleasure and profit, and there is no reason
old, should understand as well how to cut and make wliy it should not be done when it can be accomi)li«lied

garments as she should all other domestic duties. so easily.

She should understand as well how to cut herself a We would like for every lady or gentleman who has
dress as she should know how to prepare a meal of an o(iportunity of seeing our work to have it fully ex-

victuals or any other duty allotted to woman, and yet plained to them and thoroughly examine it in every
we find but verj' few informed upon this most neces- particular. You will always find bur .agents ladies and
sarj' part ofher duties. Even if she should not wish gentlemen in every sense of the word. We employ no
to make the garments herself, she should at least know others and they will always be found willing to explain
how they were cut and how tliey were made. the work fully to you in ever}' way. And should you
If every lad}- understood the cutting and making of after a careful examination of our system, conclude

garments she could save more in her home every year to leai'n you will find our employes very eflficient
it,

than ui)on most any other duty of tlie household. teachers, as we never send one out who is not compe-
Seeing this great necessity for some simple metiiod tent in every way both to explain the work and teach
of garment cutting for to be used in the family, the it, though it rec|uires but very little teaching, as you

inventor, after years of practical experience and study, will find l>y carefully examining it that it is so simple

finally produced "The I'erfect Dress Fitter," wiiich and the ilirections so plain for its use that any one can
he feels assured will meet tliis great public necessity. by first carefully reading the directions l)e enaiiled to
His aim has been to make
it so simple and yet so cut any garment tliey may wish without any teaching
perfect, thatany lady could with Itut very little in- whatever.
struction be enabled to cut any article of wearing All we ask is a fair square trial of our work, know-
apparel worn by themselves or members of their ing that if you will honestly investigate it that it will

families. fully meet with your approval.

And judging from the way the " Fitter" has been Willi tli(-se few remarks we remain.

received wherever it has been placed before the pub-

Yours truly,
lic, he feels well satisfied that his plan is a success
even beyond his own expectations. No lady has ever A. E. BEARRIE & CO.
(1)

\ M )h.
 TO APPLY THE FITTER.

The first thing to be done is to take the Measures.

THE MEASUREMENTS. that the measure is even with the hips at

the side.
We take five measiiivs, viz. :

Length of Arm
The Ei.row axi> is

Chest. taken with arm hanging loosely at the side,

Waist. commencing at the same }»oint as for length

Length of Waist. of waist measure, straight across to shouldei-
Elbow. point down the arm to elbow point and
I^ength of Aiuii. wrist joint.

TiiK Curst Measure, is taken tight Cake must be used in taking measures.

ju.st above the bust and high up under the SPE(;iAL.

arms. All upper garments are laid ont by

The Waist Measure is taken straight chest measure. The entire garment is laid

around tlie waist as tight as tlie party off by rule coiTesponding with chest meas-
wishos to wear tho (h'css you ai'e cutting ure, backs, front and sleeves. Accom-
for. panying di'aft No. 1 will be found directions
The Length of Waist is taken from for applying special measures. Under
the center of l)ack at neck wlnere the collar each draft will be directions telling you
should be attached to the dress straight what rule to use to l;iy the garment off by,

down the back to the waist, being careful etc.

IN COMMENCING TO DRAFT.

First make your base lines to work from dii'ections On the Seams. When the gar-
by drawing your pencil around the outside ment is all drafted follow yonr special
of the squai'c. Then follow the directions directions for Changing the Size of Waist
For Applying the Rule, governing yourself (if any change be necessary) ; when that is

by the special directions accompanying done your garment is completed. Then

whatever diagram j-on are laying off. Next by reading Our Basting Directions care-
follow directions For Applying the Scroll fully the garment can be easily and properly
to connect the points and form the di-aft. put together.
Next lay off your seams following the
(2)
 HOW TO APPLY THE RULE.

There aw lour distinct points or places waist lini'.Length of waist vai-y on differ-
wlicrc the end ot tin- I'nlc niiisl i»e [)laced ent persons of the same chest measure.
and meusuix-nients niiide t'roni. And the only way the measure can be made
THE FIRST correct is with the tape-line.
Ts the to[) of the sidi' hiise line, where we THK SPECIAL DIRECTIONS
coninience measuring- to get flie length of Accomi)anying- Diagram 'No. 1, fii'st pat-
garments and the points to strike (he lines tern in the book, fnlly explain this and tell
aci'oss from to get the width on. you i)laiiily how to make the waist line

T[IE SECOND correct.

Is where we lay our on the cross lines

rule
WHEN IT IS correctf<:d
Place the end of the rule upon the corrected
to get the points for width of gai-nK'nts,
waist line and measure again from that
which stai't from the side base line wheivver
point, in the same way that you have been
they occur on the diagram we are laying off.
instructed to measure from the base lines

In
TIIK THIRD IS FROM THE

making measurements with our

V rule,
an<l the5V-
TO EXPLAIN THIS FULLY.
On the backs of Diagram No. 1, first

which is five s[)aces in length, we measure pattern in the book, we place the rule at

all points given on the diagram we are the to]) and get the follow-
on side base line

laying off. By first getting the points ng points for length. First point is B,
straight down the side base line until we then IB, then 2, then 2F, then oB, then

reach the end of the I'ule. Then at the end 4E. Then we come to the 5V. Now just
of the rule or the 5th space we mark a V mark V
at the end of rule and then move

as shovyn upon the diagram. Then we the rule down its full length, placing the

move the rule down its full length, placing end of the rule on the point of the V.
the end of the I'ule at the point of the V Now mark points again same as you did
we have just marked and commence measur- above. Next point is 2A, which is waist-
line, mark it and then follow the directions
ing from that point again, just the same as
if we were measui'ing' from the starting-
on changing waist line (if any change is
point. The 5V occurs on all lines where the necessary). And then place the end of
rule is not long enough to reach the number the rule at the point whei-e the corrected

we on the diagram, and by sim])ly

reipiire waist line is marked (as explained in the

marking- the V
at the end and moving the special directions with first diagram), and
rule down if on base line or out if On cross commence measuring your points again.
lines, we can get any number of spaces we Next point is IF, next is 2, and next or
lecpiire. last point is 2B. When all the points are

The V always occurs on the diagram just marked on the l)ase line, strike the lines

as many time's as it is necessary to move aci-oss whei-ever they occni- on the diagram
the i-ule to get all the points required. and then take your rule and get all points

Wherever you see tlu- DVon the diagram upon the cross lines. When that is done
niai-k the V at the and move
end of I'ule
take your scroll and apply it, connecting-
your rule down its full length and measure the points, as directed in the directions for

again from that point just the same as if Api)lying- the Scroll. And then mark off

the rule had not been moved from the your seams and your diagram is com[)leted.

starting- [)oint. IN LAYINc; OFF THE SEAMS

THE FOURTH Be careful and follow directions for seams
Place we commence measurin<>- from is the closely.
(3)
 HOW TO APPLY THE SCROLL.

The scroll bus a liirge and a sjiiall end. simply a: hand connect two points at one

The hirye end is used in iiuikiiig- the eiirves time. If the hand has a star upon the
on Ladies' and Gentlemen's garments, and wrist connect three points. Wiien the

tlie small end for making the eurves on curve to be made is an outward cui've, the

Children's garments. hand will occur inside of the <li"ift, and in

We have two hands upon the scroll. And laying down the ciu've to foi'm the line

Ave also have hands upon om- diagrams to yon must also have it inside of the points

simplify its use. to be ct)nnectt'd and the hands on the scroll

Whatever way the hand upon the dia- and on the <iiagram nmst be pointing in the

gram points, U't the hand ujjon the sci'oll same direction.

point in the same dii'cction. If the curve SPECIAL CURVKS,

is an inward ciu've tlie h;ind will be placed such as Front neck Curve, Arms Eye
upon the outside of the line to be drawn, Cui've, Darts, Front hem (Jui've, Side
and in hiying the scroll on to connect the under arm on front and Side back curve are
points and make the line you must also marked on the scroll so that it can be ap-
place it U()oii the outside of the ]ioints you [)licd with case. Wliert' lines occur with-
ai'c connecting, being cai'cful th;it the hands out any hands (except it l)e the special

on the diagi'am and the hand on the sci(dl curves just explained) they are sti'aight lines
point in the same dii'ection. If there is and must l)e connected with the scpiare.

THE SEAMS.

Seams arc of diCferent widths, some aiv nect the points with the tools in the same
marked with the rule and some are marked mannei' that you did the outline, being
with the ta])e line, lint each diagram has careful to keep the seam the same width
the amount jjrinted upon it that is allowed apart at all places. When drafts are all

for seams wherever seams ai'e (o be t;iken. com[)lete<l and seams marked off, then fol-
All seams that are made with the rule are low diivctions foi' changing- size (»f waist
laid off when you ;uv lirst making the <lraft, (if any change is necessary). Forms of

excepting the shoulder seams, which ;ire all the same chest measure vary in size of
marked on the diagram telling you just waist same as in length of Avaist and can
what letter to measure to for width of only be correctly nuide by the tape-
seam. When all seams are marked off con- line.

(4)
 DIRECTIONS FOR BASTING.

IX CKNTKi; r.ACK SKAM. IN SIIOII.DER SE.VMS.

Bc'^iii at waist liiu' and haste ii[). Begin at shouldei' p(»int and haste to neck
on the left shoulder, stretching the front so
IX HASTIXU SIDE HACK SEAMS. that it will come out even with the hack

Hold thr hacks to you, iiiakiii^- Ihr scaiiis piece.

coiMf out I'veii without clippiui^- ou tlie . l*in (lie right shoidder seam, stretching

ends. It' lU'CTssai'T sdvteh the side hack the I'roiit seam as for left shoulder, and then

tVoiM ahout two and our-hait' to tlu'ee iiiciics begin at neck hasting to shouliler point.

dowu I'ldni tile (op to make tiieui coiue out Aftei' having done your fitting, all seams

even. should hi' trinnned down to just what is

needed for the whaleb(»nes. All seams

IN BASTING SIDE SEAMS. should he pressed open with a hot ii'ou be-

Haste tile left side seam first, and then fore putting in whale bones.

l)in the right side seaiu up to the (op,

beginning- at waist line, making it come out

IN BASTING SLEEVES.
same as the left side seam, and then l)egin
at top and haste down to waist line, hold-
Begin at the top and baste down to waist.

ing the back towards yon.

IN PUTTING THE SLEEVES JN.

IX SIDE UNDEIl A1!M SEAMS.
Place the back seam at about one-half
Hold the side backs towai'ds yon, l)ast-
inch Ijelow the side from seam in arm's eye.
ing same as for side back seams.
Baste over the to[) of sleeve, holding the

sleeve towai'ds you, sew in the right sleeve

IN UNDER ARM DARTS AND FKONT DARTS.
first, i)in the left sleeve, being careful that
Begin at waist line and baste up, after
you get both sleeves in exactly alike.
having the darts hasted togetlier, cut open
There should he a basting thread run
through the centei'.
around the to|) of (he nppei- sleeve jioitiou

to make it full over the shoulder.

IN HEM.

Run a basting thread on hem line and

leave ojjen to do fitting, pinning to fit the BEFORE FITTING.

I'oi'm. Clip all seams at waist and for an inch

above and below waist, making several
IN ALE SEA:\IS I'.KI.OW WAIST. cli])s. Be careful not to clip them too
Begin at waist and baste down. close.
(5)
 LADIES' PLAIN BASQUE.

FOR MEDIUM FIGURES.

3A

2 B-2-IF 3B-2F - 2

TO LAY OFF BACKS.

Make base lines first. Then suppose we waist V.i of an inch shorter than original

are cutting for a lady whose measures are waist line or point 2A which we marked
Chest 33. with rule.
Waist 23. Now shorten point 4E one-half as much
Length of "Wnist 15h'-2. as you did the waist line, or ^/^ of an inch.
Elbow 191/2. Now place the end of rule at the cor-

Length of Arm 29. rected waist line (accoi'ding to direc-tions

Add one inch to last two measures amount on points to measni'e from), and mark the
required for seams, which makes the elbow points for skirt. Now strike lines across

measure 2OV2 and the length of arm 30 from base line points wherever they occur
inches. Take rule 33 whicli corresponds on the diagram, and then get all points on

with chest measure and then follow direc- them for width of garment. Then take
tions for applying the rule, marking all scroll and connect points according to
points down base line to point 2A inclus- hands on draft following special directions
ive which is waist line. Now take tape line on (Applying the Scroll).
and measure from the first point marked or Then lay off all seams as they are
the letter B down 15i/.i inches on base line marked on diagram inside of the lines just

the length of waist we want, and mark it, drawn and use scroll in tlie same maimer
and then by measuring the difference be- to coiniect your points for the seam lines.

tween point 2A (original waist line), and Kead carefully directions for seams before
the waist line point marked with the tape laying them off.

line, we find it is necessary to make the Next is

(6)
 LADIES' PLAIN BASQUE.

FOR MKDIUM FIGURES.

FRONT.

2 A- IF IE- lA

TO LAY OFF FRONT.

Proceed in the same manner as for laying- darts A and B one-half as mneh or '•s of

off hacks. When Avaist line point 2E is an inch. Then place 3'onr rule upon the
reacluid, mark it. And as out waist lines corrected waist line and finish getting your

are made to he placed together, we must points for length. Then strike the cross

shorten tlu' waist on Front •V4 of an inch, lilies and get all points for width on them.

same as we did on hacks, to make front Then take the scroll and connect all points

come even again with waist line on backs, shown on diagram l)y following the direc-

You do not measure down with tape-line as |

tions for Applying the Scroll, excepting the

you did on l)acks. Simply measure up '''4 points that form the large or under arm
of an inch fiom waist line point 2K and |
dart. Do not draw those lines until we
mark it. Then shoiten points at to|) of I test size of waist.
(7)
 TO TEST SIZE OF WAIST.

There are two fronts and two each of the I)oints and E on waist line, which form
4D
back pieces, so we have one-half of the the large or under arm dart, one-fourth of
pattern an inch apart.
Having hnt one-half of the pattern, to Move point E one-eightli of an inch or
correct our size of waist (if any correction one-half the amount of
change and
tlie
be necessary) we take one-half of the actual point 4D one-eighth of an inch, which makes
waist measure which with the waist meas- one-fourth of an inch. By moving apart
ure (23) we are drafting- to would be ll"/o the two points one-half the amount of
inches. By measuring the goods across change required on each side, it keeps the
the on waist line, leaving out all
pattern garment in pi'opoition, wherein if it were all
seams, hems and darts, we find it measures changed on one side it would throw the gar-
ll'V4 inches,which is too large, as we only ment all out of shape. Now draw your
want the measni-e to be llV> inches or one- lines for inider arm dart and j^onr diagram
fourth of an inch smaller. I*^ow, to make it is completed.
one-fourth of an inch smaller we simply move ^N'ext is

UPPER SLEEVE.
3F

TO LAY OFF UPPER SLEEVE.

Lay off sleeve same plan as on backs and eighth of an inch. The original elbow
front, marking all pointsdown to the bot- point would be one-eighth of an inch too
tom of base line. Then to get proper long, consequently we shorten the elbow
length of sleeve measure, on back from point one-eighth of an incli. When elbow
seam line at top of neck at center of back point is shortened we nnist also shorten
to seam line point at shoulder point at point ID the same amount. Then when we
arm's eye. We find the measure to be 7i/4 come to length of arm by measuring the
inches. ISTow place the 7' j at the top of difference between point 30, mai-ked with
base line or top of sleeve and make a point tape line and ])oiut 4F, which is length of
at 2OV2 inches down on base line, Avhich is arm point marked with rule, we find the
elbow measure, and then at oO, which is difference to be one-half of an inch. So
we must shorten the liottom point one-
length of arm measure. Point E being-
half an inch. Whenever bottom ]ioint is
elbow point, we next measure the differ- shortened we nnist also shoi-ten point 3G
ence between elbow point just marked and the same amount.
oi-iginal elbow point E and find it to be one- N"ext is

(8)
 UNDER SLEEVE.
2G

TO LAY OFF UNDER SLEKVE."

Proecc*! same as in layiiitj;- off Tipper tog-etlici' same as waist linos, point, r)V must
sleeve. AVlicn all jxiints are marked down :
also l)i' shorU'ni'd-one-eig'hth of an iiicdi, hot-

base line, then shorten jioint E, which is I toni points.'JB andBG, leno-thof arm |)oints.

elboAV point, one-eighth of an inch same ason must also Ite shortened one-half an inch

upper sleeve. As eli)o\v points nuistcome same as they were on n[)i)er sleeve.

3A-2G

TO LAY OFF COLLAR.

Lay off collar in the same manner yon di<l hacks and fronts, making- i( I he propei-
length with tape line to fit the neck.

(!')
 THE CHANGES.
Two ladies of the same chest measiu'ciiu'iit may vary in size of waist, L. of waist, L.
of arm, etc.
We will suppose, for instance, the measures had heen :

Chest ;«.
Waist 24V2. "

L. of Waist 17.
Elbow 20.
L. of Arm 30.
By adding- the one inch for seams to last two measures it makes them 21 elbow and
31 L. of arm.
In that case we would have to lengthen waist line five-eighths of an inch in place of
shortening it.Which is done in the same manner as to shorten it, only yon move your
waist line j)oint down in ]ilace of up. If waist line is lengthened, you must also lengthen
point IE one-half as much as you do waist line.
When you come to front, yon must also lengthen the waist line the same amount as
you do on backs and the top of darts one-half as much as you do waist line and always
in the same direction.
On size of w;tist, if tiie measure had i)een 2iK'->, we want the one-half of pattern to
measure measure 11-V4 inches.
121/4 or one-half inch longer, as one-half of the pattern did
To make the change move the two 4D
and K, one-half inch closer together, mov-
points
ing each point in one-fourth of an inch, which would throw in one-half inch more goods
at waist line, IIV4 original measure and one-half would be 12V4. The measure we want,
twice 12v 4 would be 21:>/l', the waist measure we ai"e drafting to.
If ell)ow measure had been 21 and the length of arm 31, it would have been neces-
sary to lengthen elltow point three-eighths of an inch, and L. of arm one-half an inch.
As original rule points would not have been long enough.
Always remember in shortening or lengthening elbow jioint E, you nuist shorten
or lengthen (as the case maybe) point ID the same amount and where point 4F bot-
tom of sleeve is lengthened or shoi-tened you must always lengthen or shorten |)oint 3G
the same amount. When you come to under sleeve i)ortion. lengthen or shorten, as the
case may require, ell)ow point E and the r>V, and also ])oints3CT and 31) the same amount
that you do the same points on uppei- sleeve, and in tiie same direction.
Under each garment will be given the necessary measures for laying it off, all
points that may require changes and all directions necessary. Read them carefully be-
fore attempting to cut the garment.
The garments do not generally need changing but in case they do, to fit them
;

to tape measurement, we give all points on all garments that may have to be changed.

DRAFTS 1 AND 2

Are so designed that any one wishing to use a plain back and French bias front can
use back and side, back of No. 1 and front of No. 2. Or if one wishes to reverse and
use the backs of No. 2 and plain front of 'No. 1 they can do so. Any sleeve desired
may be cut with any draft.

THE SHADING OR FINK CROSS LINES

Show just what amount of the diagram is made up into the garment, or in other words,
represents the cloth.
(10)
 LADIES' BASQUE, FRENCH BIAS.

BACKS.

28-2"^ 7?\*E-4'^ lAFOB

Taki' chust, waist, lciii;lh oi' waist, elbow, and U'lig-th of ai'iii. Use rule

correspondiiiij;- with eliest measure. Measure dowu from letter B to i>-et lenglli of

waist. If any chaug-e be necessary, 2 A being waist line [)oiut, lengthen or shorten it,

as the case may re(iaire. Points 4:E and 4A must be changed one-half as nuieh us waist
hne and in llie same diieetioii.

UNDER ARM GORE.

IF ?D

Undei- arm gore is laid off by same rule. If waist on backs is lengthened or
sht)rtened. Point 3G being waist line point, mns( be lengthened or shortened same
amount.
(11)
 LADIES' BASQUE FRENCH BIAS.
FRONT.

;c 2 B B A 2C 3G 3B
WAiai
U.se f-aiiit: rule. If vvai.sl, lini>s liavo beeu leiinthi'iRMl or .sIkii'Iiik'iI, li'i]j;Uifii or slioilcu poiiil L'C, wliicli is wai.st line,
.same amoiiiit as ou Ijaclis ami under .-irni gore and lop of darts A and li one-lialf as nuieli in the same direction. WLieii seau)s
are all laid off test .size of waist, if eliange be necessary, move |ioiiit C on waist line on uutler arm gore, and |ioiut .J on
waist line on front iie.Kt to under arm gore oue-lialf tlie amount of cliauge re(|uired, in tlie same manner that change was
made ou Diagram No. 1 in under arm dart. If tlie waist needs to be larger the points are moved towards each other. If
smaller, they are moved apart.

LEG OF MUTTON SLEEVE.

3n

IF-IC^- F 3Q 3« £. c /5\ 3D-3B' 1G IB

Use rule corresponding with chest measuri'. Point '1 iselbow line. If it be changed change point E same amount.
If bottom poiut be changed change points IC F — — 3G and 3A. same amount and in the same directions.
(12)
 .

LADIES' MORNING DRESSING WAIST.

BACK.

2B

2A-1F

Tiikc c-licst waist, L. waist, I'lhow and \j. orai-iii iiicasiii't's. link' con'ospondiiii; witii

clR'st is iisrd. "2X oil back is waisi point. (JliaM^c to lit tape line inuasuicincnl
("lian<4C point 5\' oiK'-liaii' (iu' amount.

FRONT.

A/§\ 4A-3E lE-lft

To lay off front use same ruk-. If waist is changed on back, change waist line
[loint 2D same amount and top of (hirt A one-half as much the same direction. To
get pro[)er size of waist change C and iC [)oints on under arm dart in or out (as the
case may. require) to exact size of tape liiu' waist measiu'i'.
(i;5)
 LADIES' MORNING DRESSING WAIST.

GATHERED SLEEVE.

UPPER SLEEVE.

Use same rule, leiigtlieu or shorten, to tape measui'enieut ;

point E is elbow point;

IG must be changed same auiouut as elbow ami in same (lii'ection ; i)()int 5 is L. of arm

point, and point 1 must be elianged same amount as [toint 5, if any change is made.

Gather to iit notches between ])oints 2E and 2F on under sleeve.

UNDER SLEEVE
2E 2F

3F 3

To lay off under sleeve use same rule ;

points C and 4F must be changed same

amount as points E and IG on upper sleeve, and points o and oF must be changed same

amount as points -i and 5.

(14)
 LADIES' PLAIN BASOUE.
BACKS.

2B-2-tF 1A "/§^ 4-A-3E 3-20-JG 1A

Waist

Take chest, waist, L. of waist, ell)ow aiul leni>th of arm, measure down from
point A to g'et leng'th of waist, lA, marked waist, is waist line point. Chaiigc to fit tnpe
line measure. If waist is cli;ing-ed, ehang-e ]>oint 4A one-luiH' the ninoiuit.

FRONT.

2A-1E IE ^E-4D-3G-3D-2G
V/AIST

To lay off fi-ont use same I'ule. If waiston back has been changed, chano-o waist
line point IE same amount ;ind top of darts 4E and 4D one-half as much. If any
ehang-e is necessary in'size of waist, regulate it at under arm dart, mrn ing points 4E
and D, in or out, as the change may require.
(15)
 LADIES' PLAIN BASQUE.

GATHERED SLEEVE.

UPPER SLEEVE.

Use same rule. Point 4F is ell)ow mid point 1 is to be elianged same amount
with it. (If change be made) oF is L. of arm point. If it is chnngcd, change 2G same
amount. Gather to fit notches on luider sleeve between points 2D and 2E.

UNDER SLEEVE.
20 2E 20 8>^

W^
Use same rule. If points 4F and 1 are changed on upper sleeve, change points
4:D and 3G same amount, and 2E and 2 same amount as L. of arm measures 3F and 2G.
(16)
 LADIES' BASQUE.

FOR STOUT FKJUKES.

2B-2-IF

Take chest, waist, L. waist, elbow, L. of arm. Use rule corresponding with

chest. Measure from point A to get L. of waist, change G waist linc' point to fit tape

measurement and point 4 one-half as much.

UNDER ARM GORE.

ie-ic

Usf same rule. If waist line was changed on hacks, change waist line point 2G
same amount.
 FRONT.

IC ^4D-4C-3F 2?" ID
WAIST

Use same rule if waist lines have been changed on backs and under arm gore.

Change waist Hne point IC same amount and [)()ints 4D and IC at top of darts one-half

as nmch. If size of waist needs changing, let out or take, as the case may require,

point 2Ct on under arm goi-e next to fi'ont and ])oint4E on front next to under arm gore.

Change them same as change is made in under ai'm dart.

UPPER SLEEVE.
3E i^ 3F
3D

Lay off by same rule;,5V is elbow. If changed, change point F same amount.
3E is L. of arm point. If changed, change 2(t same amount.
(18)
 UNDER SLEEVE.
2G

2G - 2B y^G-4C l-G

Use same rule. If 5V and F have been changed on upper, change 4G and 40

elijovv points same amount, and also 2G and 2B same as 8E and 2G on upper sleeve.

(19;
 LADIES' TEA GOWN.

5
LADIES' TEA GOWN.
FRONT.
 LADIES' TEA GOWN.

UPPER SLEEVE.

4E 3G

Use same rule. D is elbow. If changed, change and ID same amount. 4E is

L. of arm measure. If necessary to change, change 3Ct same amount.

UNDER SLEEVE,
2E

2G 2B

Lay off by same rule. Lengthen or shorten points 4D and SG same amount as D
elbow point on upper sleeve, and 2G and 2B same amount as points 4E and 3G.

(22)
 LADIES' SKIRT.
FOR MEDIUM FIGURES.
SIDE GORE. FRONT GORE.

lA

'*'"-'" "='" '"<•" '•-'""'ged on front gore, ch.anKc

lenir^lfn.^PnTi'in'"''-, ,'{ *" Take waisi and length ot skirt. Use rule
,"^ """.'-^ »"'«'">' ""'1 5V onohalf .as much. corrcsi)ond-
T y^hi"v "'"'l'' measure Take
"!p"'""= ia^e 1.. of sKirt
skirt measure In froii
aver'iBu ronns '
""' """'«'" >^'«™ "I" fc'""il' a'-out 40 laches wide
tor and lT,',l';,il™'*'
L. oi
lengthen or shorten, as the case may reoulrc.
,',',','rf
front
to tape l.ne measurement bottom point
Kront core
lli Is length point

hal aTmuil "^*' '"""" ' """" "'""""' "'"' •'°"'' *<= on«

(23)
 LADIES' SKIRT.

FOR STOUT FIGURES.

SIDE GORE. FRONT GORE.

u. _.4M ^ .f» '°

Use rule con-esponding- with waist measure. Follow the same rule as in cutting-

No. 7 Take L. of skirt measure same way and

skirt. if changes are necessary they are
made exactly the same as on No. 7.
(24)
 LADIES' SKIRT YOKE.

48 TE «^ F-C/^\4E 2C - t
D- 1 /sVJ.
D- 4-3E** 2 C lA

Take waist measure and use rule corresponding therewith. It can be cnt as deep as
one wishes.

(25)
 FULL WAIST FOR LADIES OR MISSES.

BACK.

Take chest, waist, L. of waist, el))ow and L. of arm, measure down from A and

regulate 2B waist ])oint to tape measurement.

2P»ac
wamt

To lay off front use same rule. If waist has been changed on back, change same
amount on front.

Cut waistband, which is a straight piece of goods, about two inches wide to exact

waist measure and gather fronts between points IG and 3C and backs between points
2A and 3G, to fit waistband.
(26)
 FULL WAIST FOR LADIES OR MISSES.
COLLAR.

3E-3C 2B IB
Lay off collar by same rule. Reg-ulate size of neck by tape line.

UPPER SLEEVE.
<VE

Use same rule. Measure down from E point where the X is for elboAv and L. of
arm measures. G is elbow point. If necessary to change, change IF same amount. If
point B, L. of arm, has to be changed, change -IB point same amount. Gathei- around
tttp of sleeve from point C on cross line at point 2 to point 4A on cross line at point
IB.
UNDER SLEEVE.

2E

3e . 2G /S\ 4.0 '20 1A.1

To lay off under sleeve use same rule. If elbow has Iieen changed on upper sleeve
change 4D and 5V same amount, and \j. of ann lioints ',\V] and 2(J same amount as L.
of arm points on upper sleeve.
(27)
 MISSES' BASQUE.

OPEN^ IN FRONT.
BACKS.

2B-2-1F 38- 2Q • 2A IC

Take chest, waist, L. of waist, elbow and length of arm. Measure fi'om B to get
ength of waist, change 2C waist line point to fit, and 4E point one-half the amount.

FRONT.

2A II

Use same rule. If waist has been changed on back, change 2F waist line point
same amount and B top of dart point one-half the amount. Regulate size of waist at
under arm dai-t, same as othei' basques.
(28)
 MISSES' BASQUE.

UPPER SLEEVE.

Use same rule. F is elbow point. If changed, change IE same amount. 5V is

L. of arm point. If changed, change 4A same amount.

UNDER SLEEVE.
3

4A 3D

Use same rule. If elbow points and length of arm points have been changed on
upper sleeve, change them same amount on under sleeve.
(29)
 MISSES' BASQUE.

OPEN IN BACK.

BACKS.
4G

2 1F-1D 2A 3 20 IE 1
WAIST

Take chest, waist, L. of waist, elbow and length of arm. Measure from B to test

length of waist. 2A is waist line. Change to fit. If changed, change 4B one-

half the amount.

FRONT.

3B 20 \E

Use same rule. If waist has been changed on back, change waist line point 2A
same amount. Top of dart point 5V one-half as much. Regulate size of waist at

under arm dart same as in other basques.

(30)
 MISSES' BASQUE.

UPPER SLEEVE.
3F
3E 3t «%-

Lay off by same rule ; regulate elbow and L. of arm measures same as on other
sleeves. 4F is elbow point, 3D L, of arm. Change 2F same amount as 3D.

UNDER SLEEVE.
2G
20

Lay off by same rule. If changes have been made on upper sleeve, change

elbow point iA and L. of arm points 2F and 2A same amount.

(31)
 CHILD'S WAIST.

BACK.

G-F IE B
WAIST G

Take chest, waist, L. of waist, elbow and L. of arm. Measure from B for

length of waist, change IE waist line point to fit tape measiii'ement.

FRONT.

G-F 2A
WAlsn

Use same rule. If waist has been changed, change 2A waist line point same

amount.
(32)
 CHILD'S APRON.

BACK.

the back, use rule correspoucling with chest. Regulate waist by .nea-ur-
Take cbest L. ol waist aud full kusth iu
Change waist line point 2D to tape line meas-
icK down from poiut C, and full length by measuring down from point C.

measurement. If point 3E is changed, change 2F the same amount.

urement and point 3E to full length
(33)
 CHILD'S APRON.

FRONT.

To lay off front use same i-vile. If waist has been changed on back change 2D
waist line point same amount If length points have been changed on back, change 3E
and 2C same amount.
(34)
 CHILD'S APRON

UPPER SLEEVE.
3G

4A 3C

list' saiuc rule. 5V is elbow. Change to fit tapf measureiiiciit if necessary and
Itiii^tli of arm point AA to L. of arm tape measurement. Change 3C point same amount.

UNDER SLEEVE.
3B

3C 2E /sX 4B G

Use same rule and make changes as directed on other sleeves. 4B is elbow and oC
and 2E L. of arm points.

40

Use same rule. Regulate to fit size of neck by tape line.

(35)
 LADIES' CHEMISE.
BACK.

rr.
 LADIES' CHEMISE.
FRONT.

•i-t
00

C8

o
FRONT.
 LADIES' MOTHER HUBBARD NIGHT DRESS.
SLEEVE.

3A-2C-2A /Q\ 4C 1G-1E-1B-G

Use same riik-. Gather sleeves at points marked gather. -iC is elbow. Change
to fit. Make lengtii whatever yon desire. If 3'on change point HA, change 2C and 2A
the same amount.
YOKE.

1
-^nfe«^,
3B-3 ID
Lay off by same rule. Fit to size of neck with tape.
(40)
 LADIES' DRAWERS.

Take waist and length desired. Use rule corresponding with waist measure. If
yoke is used, cut off two and one-half inches from top of pattern. Cut on the outside
line for l)acks and then turn away the goods and cut on the inside line for fronts.

YOKE.

4F 3-28 E A'^E - 3D 1G
Lay off hy same rule.
(41)
 MISSES' DRAWERS.

Take waist and lengtli desired. Follow same rule as lor No. 17. Make a band
exact size of waist and g-athei- goods into it. Cut by outside line for backs and inside
line for fronts.

(42)
 GENTS' SACK COAT.

BACK

elbow and length of arm. In measuring

Take chest, L. of waist, full length in back,

foi- L. of arm, measui-e down to knuckle joint. Measure from A and make IF waist to

fit tape measurement and point 4E to full length measurement.

FRONT.

4G-40-4 WAIBT

changes have been made on back, make siimc cluinges on

front.
Use same rule. If

If length point 4G has to be changed, cbangv points 41) —

4 and iJA same amount.

(43)
 GENTS' SACK COAT.
UPPER SLEEVE.
3F

\^2A

5-4C G /5\ 3 - 2A IB - e

Use same rule. Regulate length same as on other sleeves.

UNDER SLEEVE.

4D-4 O /5\ 2E 1E-1C-G

Use same i-ule. If any changes are made on upper sleeve, make same changes on
under sleeve.

3-2F-28
Lay off by same rule. Fit to neck by tape measure.
(44)
 GENTS' VEST.

BACK.

Iir -.1A ID
WAIST

Take chest and length of waist ; regulate length of waist with tape.

2E - 2-1D C»2D G - 8/5\ 4.E.4A IC-IA

WAIST

Use sanu- rulo. If waist lias been changed on back change waist on front same

amount.
(45)
 GENTS' PANTS.
•
GENTS' PANTS.

FRONT.
 GENTS' DRESSING GOWN.

•^.2
 UNDER SLEEVE. FRONT.

Use same rale. Make

changes according to up-

per sleeve.

o s :: c 4J
GENTS' AND BOYS' DRAWERS.

(50)
 WAIST BAND.

1B-1-F - B

TO LAY OFF DRAWERS.

Take hip measure and in seam measure. Use rule corresponding with hip measure.

Take length measure on in seam from Fork to Ankle. To test length measure from

point B down change bottom point 2C to tape measurement and knee line at F point

half the amount. If waist is to be made longer let out point E on cross line IC. If

smaller take up goods in Dart half the amount on each side. Shorten or lengthen the

waist band as is required at point 2D to fit the tape measuiement for waist.

^51)
 GENTS' NIGHT SHIRT.
BACK.

H-]
FRONT. SLEEVE.

Lay off Ijy same rule. Add

one inch to L. of arm measure
(which is taken wrist joint), for
making up ; E. is elbow point.

NECK BAND.

3G«3F»3B 1C

Lay off by same rule. Xt-ek

band should be 2 inches longer
than measure to allow for mak-
ing up.
(53)
 GENTS' AND BOYS' SACK SHIRT.
CO
GENTS' AND BOYS' SACK SHIRTS.
FRONT.

Lay off by same rule.

BOSOM.

Lay off by same rule.

(55)
 GENTS' AND BOYS' YOKE SHIRT.

BACK.

Q-C/5\4D 3E IF A ^c 3B - 20 B

Take chest, L. waist, L. of ai-m, neck and i'lill k'liotli in hack; use rale corre-

sponding- with chest measure. It is laid off just the same wa}- as Nos. 24 and 25.

Gather the goods to fit the yoke.

FRONT.'
 GENTS' AND BOYS' YOKE SHIRT.

SLEEVE.

3B-3A

Use same rule.

2F F-D-*\

Use same rule.

YOKE.

COLLAR.

C -«*

aA«3 IE - 1 3F'3e 2D IC-G

Use same rule. Use same rule.

(57)
 BOYS' SACK COAT.

2A

I^o. 27 Boys' Sack Coat is laid off by the following measures : Chest, L. of waist,

full length in back, elbow and length of arms to knuckle joint; measure down from B
for length of waist and full length. Shorten or lengthen IGr waist point to fit, and
full length 4 to fit tape measurement.

FRONT.

lF-10 2 C/^\VF.^C'4.3F.3B IC'IB-lA

WAIST

Lay off b}^ same rule. Make changes same as on back, if any. Cut off one-half

inch on left front.

(58)
 BOYS' SACK COAT.
UPPER SLEEVE.
4

^O'^SQ C/Q\ 2F-1G-1B-D

Lay off by same rule, i-egulate leno-th same as other sleeves.

UNDER SLEEVE.
3C
3A .ca

4A-3J> 2C - ID/IC-G

Lay off by same rule. If any changes are made on upper sleeve, make same
changes on under sleeve.

* -3C 2B 1

Lay off by same rule, test to tape line measurement for size.

(59)
 BOYS' VEST.
BACK.

WAiax

Take chest, L. of waist and full length; use rule corresponding with chest,

regulate length of waist and full length same as on Gents' Vest.

FRONT.

2a-1G-1B B-3 F-D /5\4-D 3C 1(

V/AlST

Lay off by same rule, follow same directions as for Gents' Vest. Cut off half

inch on left front.

(60)
 BOYS' WAIST.

1E.1D
WAIST

To lay off boys' waist, take chest, L. of waist, elbow and length of arm. Locate
waist length from point B. If ID waist be changed, change IE same amount. Make
same change on front.

FRONT.

2E-2C
WAIST

Lay off by same rule. Waist band is a straight piece of goods. Gather the
sfoods into waist band.
^
(61)
 UPPER SLEEVE.

2F- 2A A 4c IG - 1

Lay off by same rule. Regulate length same as on other sleeves.

Lay off by same rule, regulating according to upper sleeve.

(62)
 BOYS' PANTS.

BACK.

1E-1C 1 E F-D-C

knee and full length measm-e. Use rule

To lay off pants, take hip, waist, L. of
make same changes (if any changes are necessary)
corresponding with hip measure and
same as in gents' pants. 3A point is knee line and IE is full length point.

FRONT.

^~1^ 4-3E-3A

Lay off by same rule. If any changes be made on back make same changes on
waist larger let out point F on top one-half the amount if to make
front. To make ;

smaller change in dart on back.

(63)
 LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS

014 061 876 7

3E*3B'3

Lay off by same rule. Waist band is a straight piece of goods about IV2 inches wide.

(64)
 r-

TT 520
I .B3Q

^
Copy 1

V
 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

014 061 876 7

place our system of Fitting befcl xier rare

nents for ^ood workers.

Those who are out of employment or otlicis wishing to change

I

their business will find our work a very pleasant, easy and profitable

business.

WRITE FOR TERMS.

Lc-
/2 inc. js wide.

OFFICE,
1220 OLIYE STREET,
\

ST. LOUIS, MO.

 TT 520
.B38
^ Copy 1

/
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 1

i'lllll il

014 061 876 7

Hollinger Corp.
pH8.5