Professional Documents
Culture Documents
WORKS
LEVEL – I
Based on March 2022, Curriculum Version 1
August, 2022
Prepared by: Ministry of Labor and Skill Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Acknowledgment................................................................................................................................. 6
Self-check-1 ...................................................................................................................................... 48
2.5 Packers, wedges, mortar consistency, propping, shoring and forming structures ...................... 70
Self-check-2 ...................................................................................................................................... 74
Self-check-3 ...................................................................................................................................... 89
Unit seven: Fix slab stone using metal ties and adhesives ................................................................... 146
Unit eight: Finish stone, brick & block surfaces and joints ................................................................ 157
9.1 Clean, maintain and storing tools and equipment .................................................................. 173
Ministry of Labor and Skills wish to extend thanks and appreciation to the many
representatives of TVET instructors and respective industry experts who donated their time and
expertise to the development of this Teaching, Training and Learning Materials (TTLM).
of houses constructed in disaster-prone areas and has been developed for use by;
Quality standards for foundations in other soil types – listed above – are not included in this
document. This document is intended to assist building masons, workers in concrete
construction and carpenters in maintaining reliable standards in carrying out their respective
work on a construction site.
Standards related to site organization and building services such as plumbing, sanitation and
electrical work are not included in this document. Technical officers and civil engineers too
would be assisted by the checklists in this document as these would facilitate their work in
ensuring that
The information in this document, though essentially technical, has been prepared to serve as a
guide to implementers of housing projects as well as eventual owners of the houses who would
be concerned about the quality of the buildings that are to be occupied.
Quality assurance and quality control are two very closely related concepts and because of that
close relationship they are often confused and one is inappropriately used as a substitute for the
other.
Quality assurance is a process focused concept, where the processes are put in place to ensure
the correct steps are done in the correct way. if the correct processes are in place there is some
assurance that the actual results will turn out as expected.
Quality control is a product focused concept, where checking of the actual results are done to
ensure that things are as expected. if the correct controls are in place you can know for certain
that the actual results have been achieved because the actual results have been checked.
Quality assurance processes are put in place to provide some comfort that the end product is
what you want. Quality control is making sure the end product really is what you want. That can
still be a bit confusing so this article will walk through some examples to clarify the difference
between quality assurances vs. quality control.
Masonry is one of the most widely used as construction materials in the world widely. A
thorough knowledge of concrete and its properties in both the plastics and hardened stage is
necessary for the successful completion of quality product. It is simple to make concrete of good
The following minimum practical requirements are, however, drawn to the contractors‘
attention:
- The issue of protective closing, boots, gloves overall etc… to the workers is essential.
- A properly equipped first aid kid must be available at all times.
Safety considerations
First aid
First aid is an immediate care given to a person who has been injured or suddenly ill. It includes
self-care& home care if medical assistance is not available or delayed.
Plasters;
Bandages;
Ointments;
Disinfectant.
Someone on site should be in charge of the box and know how to with broken bones, burns and
electric shocks
Sufficient working area and circulation access is very essential in any type of construction, i.e.,
to dispose materials tools etc. Therefore, working area or space for a mason should have enough
space to accommodate materials, tools, and suitable stands for the working people including
sufficient circulation space and accesses for the whole process. And this helps to carryout the
work with out delay, and to the desired quality. In general well-organized working area avoids
accident, saves time and money.
As described above, in order to provide the mason with a set up which allow him to carry out the
process required efficiently, effectively and economically, the site should be organized in proper
manner. Under this organization of site, a working space arrangement or layout is important to
carry out the work smoothly.
It is essential to arrange the layout of masons working area properly, i.e.
Should be free of obstructions, which impede the masons and their helper.
Supplies of mortar mixing materials (sand, cement and lime) and masonry units (brick,
blocks, stones etc.) should be placed near the mix site.
Gloves
Care and proper order supports the construction process, and avoid accidents!
Personally:
Worries for the family
Consequences of the
Accident may: -
- Permanent pain
OR - Handicap
- Permanently
injured
Consequences of the
Accident may: -
Ware Ear
Protection
Ware safety
Boots
There are several type tools used by a Mason. Hand tools, in general, ease the work and
accelerates the process, improves quality of work significantly and they are very important for
everybody who wants to do decent work so that keep tools in perfect order. In addition tools and
equipment also represents highly valued assets. For this reasons it is crucial necessary to handle
tools and equipment with extra care. That means cleaning after use, storing neatly, slightly
greasing if necessary and regular maintenance.
Measuring and Levelling Hand Tools
Measuring Hand tools and instruments are precise devices but needed to be handled with extra
care, e.g. Spirit level should be checked every day before use!
Spirit level:-
It is used to control the horizontal and vertical alignment of wall surface and edges. The length is
at least 80 to 120cm long. It is made of metal, synthetic material or wood. It has two measuring
bubbles: one is located at mid length is used to check horizontal positions. While the second one,
at the end, is used to check vertical position. This tool requires always to be handled with care
and needs to be checked from time to time weather it is still working accurate or not.
Hose level
It is a transparent PVC hose. It is used to transfer or mark vertical levels on surface of wall when
it is filled with water, but without any air bubbles. The water level in each end of the hose is
equal. It is an instrument to mark equal levels on site. It is very accurate but not eases to handle.
Measuring tape
Folding meter/rule-2/
For measuring length in wall construction, it is convenient to use rigid scales. Such a measuring
scale/ folding rule/ is made of 20cm separate wooden pieces joined together by pins. The scale
has subdivisions in cm and mm.
Equipment/Machinery
Concrete/ Mortar Mixer
Concrete mixers are available in from of different capacities. Small mixers can produce 50Lit of
mortar or concrete and the big ones produces more and more, up to 6000Lit. widely used, small
mixers up to a capacity of 1000Lit. Mixers are driven with diesel, benzene engine or electrical
power.
Advantages of Mixers:
In case where a large quantity of mortar or concrete is to be produced, hand mix becomes
costly even if the labour is cheap. Hence machine mixing becomes essential and the mix
(mortar or Concrete) can be thus being produced at faster rate, at a lesser cost and of
better quality.
Drawing is a pictures made with a pencil or pen. drawing from which a design is constructed often
called detail drawings because it describes and gives the dimensions of the details building parts being
presented.
Detail drawings; The detail drawings delineated the actual connection between the various
building elements in bigger scale. So that the system of construction including materials would
be easy to understand by every one involved in the design and construction team.
Function provided by building (working) drawing during the realization of the project
1.7.2 Specifications
Specifications are devices for organizing the information depicted on the drawings and they are
written descriptions of the legal and technical requirements forming the masonry work
Specification is defined as the designation or statement by which written instructions are given
distinguishing and/or limiting and describing the particular trade of work to be executed.
All mortar is if possible mixed in an approved mechanical batch mixer. If not possible it
could be mixed by hand until its color and consistency are uniform
Lime for mortar in freshly burnt limestone. Lime shall be delivered to the site in large
lumps, slaked, run to putty and mature for not less than two weeks before use.
If hydraulic lime is used, it is stored in the same manner as described for cement.
Cement used in mortar is Portland cement and have quality as described for concrete
works.
Sand for mortar is of quality as described for concrete works.
Water is of quality described for concrete works.
Cement mortar consists of cement and sand as specified. If not given in the specification,
check that cement mortar consists of one part cement to three parts of sand (1:3)
measured by volume.
Compo mortar consists of cement, lime and sand as specified. If not specified, check that
the compo mortar is composed of one part cements two parts of lime and nine parts of
sand (1:2:9) measured by volume.
Cement mortar is used within 30 minutes of the duration of cement.
1.7.3 Scheduling
The scheduling of a construction project is often confused with Planning, which is an entirely
different and separate function. Although the planning function may never be accomplished
in a total manner, it can be accomplished in a broad and practical sense. Planning must be
done before the project can be intelligently scheduled.
Scheduling is a mechanical process for formalizing the planning function, assigning time
boundaries for each part of the work in such a manner that the work proceeds in logical
sequence and in an orderly and systematic manner.
Thus, a construction project scheduling is a projected time table of construction operations
that will serve as the principal guide line for project evaluation.
There are certain general factors which affect the choice of materials for a particular scheme.
Perhaps the most important of these is the climatic background. Obviously, different materials
and forms of construction have developed in different parts of the world as a result of climatic
differences. Another factor is the economic aspect of the choice of materials. The rapid advance
of constructional methods, the increasing introduction of mechanical tools and plants, and
changes in the organization of the building industry may appreciably influence the choice of
materials.
Due to the great diversity in the usage of buildings and installations and the various processes
of production, a great variety of requirements are placed upon building materials calling for a
very wide range of their properties: strength at low and high temperatures, resistance to ordinary
water and sea water, acids and alkalis etc. Also, materials for interior decoration of residential
and public buildings, gardens and parks, etc. should be, by their very purpose, pleasant to the
eye, durable and strong. Specific properties of building materials serve as a basis for subdividing
them into separate groups. For example, mineral binding materials are subdivided into air and
hydraulic-setting varieties. The principal properties of building materials predetermine their
applications. Only a comprehensive knowledge of the properties of materials allows a rational
choice of materials for specific service conditions.
Hollow concrete Block (HBC):-are blocks manufactured from concrete and processed into
molds, to achieve the required physical strength and dimensions to requirements and standards.
- Bricks and stones should be piled near where they are needed
- They should be handle carefully to minimize breakage
- They should be piled on edges and a layer crossing over the previous
- The piles should be stable.
- Aggregates /Sand and gravels/ should be stored in bunkers to protect from surrounding
impurities.
1. --------is a process focused concept, where the processes are put in place to ensure the
correct steps are done in the correct way
wheel barrow
A B
---------1. Measuring box A. To check only vertical alignment
---------2. Try square B. Protect the head of the worker from any falling
object dropping from high level
---------3. Plumb bob C. Used to measure a right angle
---------4. Hard hat D. Protect the worker foot from nail, sharp objects
and heavy falling objects.
---------5. Safety shoe E. Used to check vertical and horizontal alignment
F. Used to measure a proportion of gravel and sand
Structure
A broken stone should not be dull in appearance and should have uniform texture free from
cavities, cracks, and patches of loose or soft material. Stratifications should not be visible to
naked eye.
Strength
A stone should be strong and durable to withstand the disintegrating action of weather.
Compressive strength of building stones in practice range between 60 to 200 N/mm2.
Weight
It is an indication of the porosity and density. For stability of structures such as dams. retaining
walls, etc. heavier stones are required, whereas for arches, vaults, domes, etc. light stones may be
the choice.
Hardness
This property is important for floors, pavements, aprons of bridges, etc.
Toughness
The measure of impact that a stone can withstand is defined as toughness. The stone used should
be tough when vibratory or moving loads are anticipated. Porosity depends on the mineral
constituents, cooling time and structural formation. A porous stone disintegrates as the absorbed
rain water freezes, expands, and causes cracking.
4. Marbles: They are like limestone, are calcareous rocks and consist and consist of carbonate of lime.
They are very useful material for flooring and monumental structures. Marble are available in various
colors and can very good polish.
5. Slates: These are available in hilly areas and are metamorphic rocks. Generally they have a black
color. Slates can be split in thin sheets along their bedding planes. They mostly used for roofing
work.
Mortar: - Workable paste used to bind construction blocks together and fills the gaps between
stocks.
Generally 1:3 cement sand mortar is used for stone masonry work. In order to increase the
workability of mortar 15% of cement should be replaced by lime. In order to protect limestone's
mortar from getting them stained white Portland cement mortar should be used.
Mortar is the mixtures of lime, cement, sand and water for holding HCB, bricks or stones
together.
When a binding material, a fine aggregate/sand/ and water are mixed together in suitable
proportions, they form an easily workable paste, which is termed, as mortar. For preparing
mortars, cement and lime are generally used as binding materials; sand and sand as fine
aggregate. A mortar is essentially required for masonry work, plastering, pointing etc.
In this level, some important topics concerning Mortars have been discussed in order to provide
adequate knowledge to the students about the use of mortar in Building Construction. In general
the workable paste prepared by mixing a binding material, fine aggregate/Sand/and water in
suitable proportions is called mortar.
Cement and lime are generally used as binding materials, whereas sand is used as fine aggregates
for preparing different types of mortars.
Mortars are usually named according to the binding material used in their preparation. They are
essentially required for masonry work, plastering, pointing, etc.
Natural bed of stone: the original surface occupied by a stone during its formation is called natural bed
of the stone.
Bedding plane: the plane along which the stone can be separated into different layers is called bedding
plane.
Stringcourse: a horizontal course of masonry provided at different levels projecting outside the wall to
drain out water.
Corbel: a projecting stone which is usually provided to serve as support for roofs, weather sheds, joists
… etc.
Cornice: a large molded course of stone masonry provided at ceiling level of a roof which projects
outside a wall surface of a building.
Fig 2.4.6
Fig 2.4.8
• The face and the inner part of the wall should be built at the same time.
Fig 2.4.9
Quality checkpoints:
o Ensure proper bonding of the stone.
o Use a plumb bob to check that all walls remain vertical.
o Ensure all joints are fully filled with mortar and all stones are fully embedded in
mortar.
o Immediately remove excess mortar protruding from the joints.
o In hot weather, cover the completed works with wet gunny bags
structures
Rules of thumb for mortar for stone masonry:
The consistency should be such that it does not flow out of the trowel.
The mortar can be needed in the hand and retains its form.
The quantity of mortar to be mixed should not be more than a mason can use within one
hour.
2 cm Mortar:
200 to250lt/m3
(depending on the
The purpose of cavity walls is to ensure that the inner leaf of the wall remains dry and that no
moisture penetrates to the inside of the building. Cavity construction increases thermal insulation
and this is improved further if lightweight concrete blocks are used for the inner leaf. Even
greater improvement may be obtained if the cavity is filled with plastic foam. It is most
important that the cavity is kept clean during construction and that no mortar droppings are
allowed to accumulate on the ties, which then act as a bridge for the passage of moisture to the
inner leaf. One method of preventing this is to use cavity battens. These are laid on the wall ties
with lifting wires attached and drawn up when the level for the next ties is reached. Any mortar
droppings are thus easily removed. Clearing or coring holes may also be left at the base of the
cavity to allow it to be raked clear of any droppings.
5. One of the following true about rules of thumb for mortar for stone masonry:
A. The consistency should be such that it does not flow out of the trowel.
B. The mortar can be needed in the hand and retains its form.
C. The quantity of mortar to be mixed should not be more than a mason can use within
one hour.
3. granite
4. sandstone
5. Limestone
Step 4. Use two-faced shaped and squared stone for corners & the top of the wall.
Step 5. The stones are laid on a mortar bed and then tapped gently into the mortar with a hammer
Step 8. The face and the inner part of the wall should be built at the same time.
Step 9. The joints should not be thicker than 2.0-2.5 cm but never less than 1.0 cm,
Step 10. Use a plumb bob to check that all walls remain vertical
5. Spirit level
6. Plumb bob
Step 4. The largest stones should be used for the lowest courses.
Step 6. Place bond stones at frequent intervals thereby increasing the cohesive strength of the
wall.
Tools and requirement:
1. Measuring tape
2. Rakes
3. Mason‘s squares
4. Builders lines
5. Spirit level
6. Plumb bob
Lap test-1
Task 1. Construction stone masonry using cement mortar
Setting out in bricklaying is not as difficult as it looks as long as you follow the correct
procedures. Below is a step by step guide on how to mark up and build footings on a house,
when finished it should be square, plumb, level and to gauge.
Step 1
Start off by marking the thickness of your wall around your footing, for instance if your wall is
300mm wide including cavity space and your foundation is 600mm wide, then you will want
150mm of concrete either side of your wall, as it goes up this will maximize spreading out the
weight of the house evenly.
Step 2
Start off by marking the front of the house out by banging a wooden stake in at each end and
fixing a bit of string line to each stake using a nail. Sometimes you can mark the front out by
taking a measurement off an existing house, road or pavement if not then it doesn‘t matter.
Step 3
Now by using a set square or the formula 3:4:5 you can put a mark down so your two front
corners are square. The best way to do this is to skim a thin layer of mortar on the floor and
mark out with your trowel.
Step 4
Now attach a piece of line to one of the corners and measure back the length of the side of your
house and put a mark down, now pick up the line and move it from left to right a couple of times
until it crosses over your mortar mark, when its directly above the mortar mark, hold it and bang
another peg in, attach the line to this peg so you have your second mark, repeat this process
down the other end and you now have three sides of your house marked up.
Step 5
now pull a line in from the pegs at the back of your house and nail them in, your building is now
roughly set out; all it requires now is to check the diagonals.
PROCEDURE:-
1. Prepare a simple plan in setting out certain in masonry materials and tools on a plan.
2. Observe carefully the procedure specified in the plan.
3. Record significant observations and techniques or tips for preparing the mortar to set up the
chosen masonry materials.
4. Evaluate the finished group project based on the performance assessment criteria
given below:
Directions: - Check the appropriate acceptability rating based on your honest personal
evaluation of your project.
Firstly mark out the position of the footing with pegs and a string line.
Dig a shallow trench to the required depth of the footing and drive the pegs into
the ground along the line of the trench.
The tops of the pegs should be set level to indicate where the finished surface of
the footing is to be.
A spirit level along the top of adjoining pegs will show whether the pegs are in
fact level.
First you need to establish where your first and last post will be
And then the distance between the remaining posts.
Check each post for height,
Then line and plumb using string lines and spirit levels as shown in diagram below.
Place each post into a hole and wedge them into position. Check the posts are the right height
and are plumb and in line with the other posts.
The minimum dimensions for footing in soft soil shall be as per Figure 1 For other soil types,
the footing dimension shall be taken as per Table 1.
1. Mark out the building line from the road by measuring the required distance from the
center of the road, or by stretching a line along an existing building to the proposed site
2. Mark out the overall length of the building by driving pegs at A and B along the ranging
line.
3. Obtain two steel tape measures; mark out four equal distances on the ranging line starting
from the corner peg at B.
5. Pull the second tape from fourth mark at D on the ranging line to point E on the first
tape.
6. The distance 5m if using meters on tape DE should coincide with point 3m on tape BEC.
Then the angle B is 90 degree (from Pythagoras theorem). If the points do not coincide,
the tape BC is either shifted out wards or in wards until 5m on the second tape coincide
with the 3m marks on the first tape.
7. Repeat the same procedure to obtain the right angle for BAF and mark out the overall
width of the building.
9. Mark the position of partition wall on the profile with either nails or saw cut.
1. 2 batter boards
2. 2' length of 1/2" rebar
3. String
4. Mallet
5. 4 wooden stakes
6. 2 green stakes or small wooden dowels
7. Tape measure
8. Knife
1. Peg the four outside corners: -Determine the location of the building in relation to other
buildings and boundaries (as usually shown on the site-plan or other relevant plan), and place
pegs in the ground marking the four corners of the building.
Tie one end of the string to a batter board. Don't tighten the string down too much around the
batter board because you will need to adjust it later. Pull the string taut, and loop it around the
rebar a couple times. Move to the second batter board, pull the string taut, and tie it off.
The Pythagorean Theorem states that if one leg of a triangle is 3 units, one leg is 4 units, and the
hypotenuse is 5 units, then the angle in between the legs is 90 degrees. Measure the distance in
between the two marker stakes. The object is to get that value to be 5' by sliding the string along
the batter board. Adjust the position of the string on the batter board until you have a 3' by 4' by
5' triangle.
Pound in the fourth stake and run the string line the rest of the way around the rectangle. Tie off
the ends and you're finished.
A. Sprit Level B. Tap rule C. Claw Hammer D. All of the above are correct
Step 2. Mark out the overall length of the building by driving pegs at A and B along the ranging
line.
Step 3. Obtain two steel tape measures; mark out four equal distances on the ranging line starting
from the corner peg at B.
Step 4. Pull a tape measure from point B to C
Step 5. Pull the second tape from fourth mark at D on the ranging line to point E on the first tape
Step 6. The distance 5m if using meters on tape DE should coincide with point 3m on tape BEC
Step 7. Repeat the same procedure to obtain the right angle for BAF and mark out the overall
width of the building
Step 8. Establish corner pegs and erect profiles
Step 9. Mark the position of partition wall on the profile with either nails or saw cut
Tools and requirement:
1. Measuring tape
2. String lines
3. Builder’s squares
4. Builders lines
5. Spirit level
6. Hose level
7. Hammer
Step 2.Drop a plumb bobs down from each line, both at the corner point
Step 3. Determine the exact number of blocks required for the first course
Step 4. Be sure to use the corner blocks where needed, and cut blocks as required
Step 5. Use scrap pieces of 3/8" plywood to fill in the mortar joint between each block
Step 6. After this test run, remove the blocks and prepare for the actual laying of the first course.
Step 7. Drop plumb bobs down from the corner string and at positions about 3' out from the
corner
Step 8. Spread the mortar out about 1" deep and 8" wide in the marked area
Step 9. Put a furrow in the center of the mortar with a trowel.
Step 10. Set the corner block first. Be sure you are using the correct block
Step 11. Check the starting corner block, both horizontally and vertically
Step 12. Follow this same procedure as you reach the other corners
5. Spirit level
6. Trowels
Lap test-2
Task 1. Setout simple building using 3,4,5 method
TYPES OF BONDS
The following are types of bonds commonly used in brick masonry
1. Stretcher bond
2. Header bond
3. English bond
4. Flemish bond (Single and double)
4. Flemish bond
In this type of bond, each course is comprised of alternate headers and stretcher. Every alternate
course starts with a header at the corner (i.e. quoin header). Queen closers are placed next to the
quoin header in alternate courses to developPlan
thefor courses
face lap. 2, 4, 6, etc
Every header is centrally supported
over the stretcher below it.
Plan for courses 1, 3, 5, etc
Flemish bond is of two types
o Double Flemish bond
o Single Flemish bond
Full brick
½ brick
¾ brick ¼ brick
After Preparations and arrangement of work place as discussed earlier and cutting brick pieces to
desired size, the following points are to be considered.
I) In some areas hot, dry wind and weather conditions, these who to be laid in cement or lime
mortar, it necessary to wet the bricks before they are laid. This may apply depending on the
weather conditions of the site.
It should be properly wetted with water to:
Prevent the bricks from absorbing any moisture from the mortar so that the mortar can
properly set.
Provide better bond between the bricks and mortar as kiln dust is washed away during
wetting the blocks and to facilitate spreading the mortar more evenly on the surface of
bricks.
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Block-Laying Basics
BLOCKS. There are many types of blocks which are most widely used as masonry materials.
The CHB (sometimes called as Concrete Hollow Block) is used for all the types of construction
walls, partitions, dividers, corners, etc.
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All final adjustment to a block must be made while the mortar is wet. For steps stated
above refer, figures below.
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4.3 Leveling wall
Useful example of horizontal and vertical alignments on a corner and horizontal level fixing
using mason line lead and nails.
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Correct horizontal alignment using straight edge, Spirit level and water hose level
The moisture present in the ground or rain water may penetrate in to the building from below,
from sides and also sometimes from the top of its roof. It causing the structure to remain in damp
condition and thus deteriorating the structure as a whole. It is there fore, very essential to prevent
any moisture penetrating into a building. Now days, care is taken while designing and
constructing any building so that dampness can be prevented from affecting it and its inhabitants.
At this level some of the important topics concerning Dampness and Damp-proofing have been
discussed in order to provide adequate knowledge about this important aspect in building
construction.
Dampness
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The access or penetration of moisture contents inside a building through its walls, floors or roof
is known as dampness.
Dampness is not only injurious to buildings but also it affects adversely the health of their
inhabitants. It becomes, therefore, essential to know the causes of dampness and methods of its
prevention so that the building can be constructed damp- proof.
The following are the common ill or harmful effects of dampness in a building:
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Causes of Dampness
Rain penetration
is considered as chief source of dampness. Some buildings withstand heavy rains for a short
duration whereas they fail to withstand mild showers for a number of days.
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Rain penetration is considered as chief source of dampness.
Damp-Proofing Materials
The materials used for damp-proofing purposes in buildings and in other engineering structures
are called damp-proofing materials.
There are many damp-proofing materials used for preventing dampness in different part of a
building or any other engineering structures.
Among the others we are only to discus only the followings.
Flexible materials:
Materials which do not crack and deform their shape when subjected to any loading are called
Flexible materials.
- Bitumen mastic (mastic asphalt)
- Bitumen felt
- Hot laid Bitumen
- Perforated pipes
Application of damp proofing material to building parts
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Vertical and horizontal layer of damp proofing material application in
building structure
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4.5 Construct opening and install lintels
This section attempts to provide the trainees with the necessary skills to:
Setting out the location of doors, windows and ventilators,
Install frames for doors and windows,
Construct lintels,
Install ventilators.
Installing frames for doors and windows
Doors and windows are fixed into wooden or sometimes metal frames. Frames are installed
together with the on-going masonry work to ensure they are properly fixed into the wall and that
they fit exactly into the opening.
Great care should be taken to ensure that the frames are fixed without being twisted. The doors
and windows should fit exactly into the frame.
1. Mark the exact location of the doors and windows to be fixed. Combine this with setting out
the walls before commencing the masonry work.
2. Place the frame at marked locations and hold it upright with temporary support. These are
usually timber supports, which are firmly fixed into the ground.
3. Construct the masonry walls next to the frames
4. Grout between the frame and wall, filling all gaps with mortar.
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Quality checkpoints:
o Check that the frames are in the correct position.
o Ensure no deformation of the frames takes place.
Installation of ventilators
Ventilators are prefabricated elements that are integrated into the wall right below the roo
Commonly, there are two different types:
They are usually prefabricated concrete blocks with integrated ventilation holes. Ready-made
ventilators are usually available from local suppliers.
Jallys can also be made of steel. These are also easily integrated into the wall.
When constructing the walls, these ventilators are normally positioned just below the roof slab.
Lintels are the small beams constructed above openings for doors, windows and terraces.
The lintels are built into the walls once the masonry reaches the top level of the door and/or
window frames.
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Sunshades are extensions of lintels, creating small cantilever slabs kept above windows and
doors in rural houses basically to provide shade and to prevent rain sprinkling into the
room. The thickness of the lintel varies from 15 cm to 30 cm depending on the size of the
opening. In some places sunshades are not taken up to reduce costs.
The lintel is supported by the wall on both sides of the door, window or other opening.
Therefore the masonry work up to the level of the lintel needs to be completed before starting the
installation of the lintel.
Work method for Constructing lintels and sunshades
1. Remove bricks in the wall for 15 cm width for sufficient support for the lintel on either
side of the opening and so that the lintel can be placed in its correct position in the wall.
2. Cut, bend and assemble reinforcement bars according to the plan or instructions from the
engineer.
3. Cut shuttering boards, support and props to the correct sizes and assemble the formworks
to the correct shape and position.
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4. Install the reinforcement steel in the correct position in the formworks.
5. Mix 1:2:4 concrete on a hard and clean surface. Pour concrete into formworks and compact.
6. Cure the concrete for a minimum of 14 days. Ideally, the curing should be given 21 days
for all beams, lintels and sunshades. Cover the concrete with wet gunny bags to facilitate the
curing and protect it from sunshine.
7. The shuttering on the vertical sides can be removed after 14 days but leave the support in
place.
8. Once the shutters are removed, check for honeycombs. Remove any loose aggregate and fill
the voids with cement mortar 1:4.
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Quality checkpoints:
Check that the formwork is in the correct position, that it is straight and at correct
levels.
Check that the reinforcement bars are in the correct position and properly fixed.
Secure sufficient support on both sides of the wall.
Ensure that the concrete is mixed to correct proportions.
Ensure continuous curing for 14 days, keeping the concrete moist and protected
from the sun.
Do not remove the props before 14 days
4.6 Installing tie down and lateral support system for ceiling /roof structures
A roof is the upper most protecting part of a building against weathering (wind, rain, snow, heat).
Roof helps in providing privacy, comfort and safety by keeping away disturbing agents (natural
& man-made) to the dwellers.
Requirements
providing light and ventilation
Reasonably cheap
Durability (by giving more years of maintenance-free service)
Fire resistance and heat insulation
Free contraction & expansion with out failure
Stability
Free drainage
Types of roof
Based on the geometry and inclination of the roof surface, roofs are classified as:-
1. Flat roof
2. pitched roof
3. curved roof
1. Flat roof – it has a surface slopes up to 10o .
Example- RCC slab roof
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Flat roof needs surface proofing against dampness and wearing
Flat roof is suitable for hot region where rain fall & snow fall is minimum.
Advantage.
simple in construction
usability of the area for playing gardening
less roofing material
easy for vertical extent ion
Disadvantage
slower drainage capacity
less suitable for long span
2. Pitched roof: - have a slope more than 10o. They are mostly seen in Ethiopian society.
Examples: - Lean-to-roof, Gable roof, Hipped roof, Butter fly roof, Combination roof
a. Lean-to-roof- simplest type of sloping roof provided for a short span room
(E.g. verandah). It has only one side slope.
b. Gable roof- The roof slopping in two directions. The two slopes meet at the ridge.
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Fig Gable roof
c. Hipped roof- This is formed by four sloping surfaces in four directions.
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Fig intersecting gable roof
3. Curved roof - It is mainly selected for its beauty appearance.
- Shell roof -for stadium
- Domed roof -for museums, mosques, churches etc.
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Truss
- A roof truss is frame work, usually of triangles, designed to support the roof covering & ceiling
load over rooms.
When the span of the roof exceeds 5m and where there are no intermediate walls to support the
purling, framed structure (known as trusses) are provided at suitable interval along the length of
room.
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Fig Roof lay out (rafter)
How to Installing tie down and lateral support system for ceiling/roof structures
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An illustration of binding roof trusses to building structure.
Roof trusses should be constructed over columns, and for a concrete column the reinforcement
should protrude at the top and be bent over roof trusses to join the roof structure with the wall
structure. Metal straps or plates can be used for this role, particularly where the building
structure is made of wood.
A good roofing example of column steel reinforcement bent over roof truss to tie house structure
to the roof structure. This is an essential detail in areas subject to
earthquake and to winds, to keep the roof on the house when a natural hazard strikes the
structure. Such exposed steel should be painted with rust-proof paint to minimize
corrosion.
Example of good roofing practice. Steel roof trusses are connected to columns through welding
of truss members to column reinforcing steel and purlins are welded with ties to roof trusses.
This will hold the roof firmly on the house in storms or other hazards from nature.
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Self-check-4
Part I: Choose the best answer
1. Which one of the following points true bout for horizontal joints (mortar bed) the
thickness of 1cm is recommended for brickwork to ensure
A. leveling of the mortar bed,
B. placing of bricks completely in mortar
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6. ---------is the upper most protecting part of a building
1. One of the advantages of concrete block masonry is very good sound and heat
2. We can check vertical alignment block using plum bob and sprite level
3. HCB is can be used for construction purposes, including the erection of buildings, fences,
and other similar structure
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Operation sheet 4: laying of English bond
Step 2. Lay the first two courses using ‗dry‘ bricks without mortar
Step 3. Always begin a wall with a stretcher course
Step 4. Continue with the following bricks off the corner in both directions
Step 5. Start with the second course again in the corner, but now place the corner bricks in
the opposite direction from the corner bricks in the first course
Step 6. The third course is exactly the same as the first course and the fourth course is
identical to the second course.
Step 7. Build all walls simultaneously for better bonding. The maximum brick wall height per
day should not exceed 10 layers.
1. Measuring tape
2. String lines
3. Builder‘s squares
4. Builders lines
5. Spirit level
6. Trowels
7. Rubber mallets
Lap test-3
Task 1. Laying of English bond
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Unit five: perform dry bed stone and grout
This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:
Prepare appropriate stone
Prepare joints
Apply grout
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
Prepare appropriate stone
Prepare joints
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5.1 Prepare appropriate stone
The art of building a structure in stone with any suitable mortar is said to be stone masonry. It
may be adopted for the construction of foundations, columns, walls, arches, floors… etc of a
building. Dams, retaining walls and other structures can also be built up in stones. Stones are
available in nature and after properly cutting and dressing to the proper shape they provide
strong, durable and economical material for the construction of buildings and other similar
structures.
Good stone masonry requires advanced skills from a rural mason. The mason has to be able to
determine the required wall and bond type in accordance with the drawings. The preparatory
activities need to be carried out in a planned manner to ensure that the right material, tools and
labor are available.
Stonewalls are usually not plastered and are therefore seen by everybody. The quality of these
walls is therefore the ‗business card‘ of the rural mason.
Standard tools for stone masonry work Stone masonry requires the same tools as for brickwork.
In addition, the following tools are required:
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The following shapes of stones are used for construction
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Stone quality
A good stone should be hard. It should be possible to dress a stone without it crumbling. In
general, stone found on the surface is less durable than quarried stone. Still, there are a number
of rock types found on the surface that are of sufficient quality to be used in house The hardness
of stone can easily be checked with a hammer. Strong rock resists a hammer blow and does not
disintegrate when being shaped.
Some types of rock such as sandstone are more porous and may absorb water. If the rock is hard
enough, it can still be used, but it is then important to add a damp proof course on
the plinth.
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Steps for dressing:
Prepare the work ground, tools and safety equipment.
Clean the stone to be dressed, e.g. using a brush and water.
First cut it roughly on all sides, to the extent possible using its natural
shape. Stones should be of size and weight that can be carried by one person.
Dress the face to a plane and check it with a straight edge.
Select the stones that could be used as corners and shape the reverse face.
Make sure all dressed stones are clean and stockpile them neatly.
Clean the work area from debris. Stone chips may be used as backfilling
material for foundations or plinths.
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5.1 Prepare joint
Stone masonry wall is constructed using suitable mortar similar to other types of masonry wall
constructions. Horizontal and vertical alignments in the process are almost carried out in the
same manner i.e. leveling with sprit level, straight edge, string; plumbing using plumb bob, etc
are carried out in the same procedure. But due to the irregular edges and uneven sizes of stone
blocks / units care should be taken in leveling, aligning and providing vertical joints of the wall.
Moreover, the hearting (the inner portion between facing and backing) of a wall is filled with
crushed stones for proper packing with mortar to form homogeneous mass of wall. Since natural
stone blocks are heavier than the artificial one's double scaffolding should be adapted to carry
out the stone masonry construction. The figure bellow illustrates methods and procedures of
erecting (construction) stone masonry wall units.
FIG
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5. In order to obtain uniform distribution of load, large flat stones should be used under the
ends of girders, roof trusses, etc.
6. Wood boxing should be fitted in to walls having fine dressed stonework to protect it
during further construction.
7. The mortar to be used should be good quality and in the specified proportion.
8. The construction work of stone masonry should be raised uniformly.
9. Plumb bob should be used to check the verticality of erected wall. Also wooden template
should be used to check the battered faces.
10. The stone masonry section should always be designed to take compression and not the
tensile stresses.
11. The stone masonry work should be properly cured after the completion of work for a
period of 2 to 3 weeks.
12. 12 .As much as possible broken stones or small stone chips should not be used.
13. Double scaffolding should be used for working at higher levels.
14. The hearting should be properly packed with mortar and chips of stone if necessary to
avoid hollows.
15. The properly wetted stones should be used to avoid mortar moisture being sucked.
Applying grout
Grouting is the process of spreading and working of mortar or cement slurry over stones or
bricks to fill up their joints.
Grouting is a thin mortar used to fill cracks and crevices in masonry.
The mortar mix for grouting mortar depends first of all on the width of the joint.
For small joint from 1to 2mmcan be filled with pure cement, but when the joint become bigger
sand has been added.
Up to 5mm it is also possible to add a small amount of tile adhesive(ratio 2:1:
2 parts of cement &1 part of adhesive).
To prepare the grouting mortar follows the steps
1. Fill the joint of the wall with appropriate joint filling board.
2. Wipe always diagonal over the mason to fill the joint proper.
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3. Grout in a space you can handle not too much .if you apply too much at once the
starting bonding goes too fast & you will not be able to follow with the washing.
4. Wait for the joint until they start bonding .this is the time you start washing the joints
with a clean sponge.
5. Clean the surface by pulling off the material diagonal from the tiles.
6. Remove the remaining dust from the surface by wiping it with a dry rag.
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Self-check-5
Part I: Choose the best answer
1. Which one of the following true about the type of stone chiseling tools
3. Wait for the joint until they start bonding is the time you start washing the joints with a
clean sponge
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Operation sheet 5: prepare of corner stone
Step 2. Clean the stone to be dressed, e.g. using a brush and water.
Step 3. Cut it roughly on all sides, to the extent possible utilizing its natural shape.
Step 4. Dress the face straight and check it with a straight edge
Step 5. Select the stones that could be used as corners and shape the reverse face.
Step 6. Make sure all dressed stones are completely clean and stockpile them neatly.
Step 7. Clean the work area from debris
1. Measuring tape
2. Stone hammer
3. Brick hammer
4. Chisel
Lap test-4
Task 1. Prepare of corner stone
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Unit six: perform dry stone construction
This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:
select prepared stone
Laying stone
Laying capping stone
Laying wall
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
Prepare and select stone
Laying stone
Laying stone capping
Laying wall
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6.1. Select prepared stone
What is Dry Stone Construction?
Through time, people have figured out many ways to build structures. One of the world's oldest
construction methods date back thousands of years and it's called dry stone construction.
Dry stone construction is a type of construction using in building walls and other structures by
carefully layering stones. It was traditionally done in geographic areas with lots of stone as a
natural resource. Examples of buildings created in this method include impressive ancient
structures like the pyramids in Egypt and parts of Machu Picchu, built by Incas in Peru. Dry
stone construction was also often used for agricultural walling (to keep livestock contained) in
places like the British Isles.
Fig. Example of excellent dry stone construction at Machu Picchu, built by the Incas in Peru
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But how does dry stone construction differ from other brick or masonry construction? Dry stone
construction is done without mortar, a mix of sand, cement and water that serves as a glue or
binder to hold brick walls and some stone walls together. Instead, in dry stone construction, the
position and weight of the stones themselves keep the structure in place. The craftsmen who
build using the dry stone method have to be very skilled, and it's a very time-consuming process.
But the results last for a very long time.
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6.3. Laying capping stone
Coping- a finishing or protective course or cap to an exterior masonry wall or the like
When the wall stands at the desired height, prepare the top for coping. This final addition not
only provides character; it protects your hard work from the elements and ensures that the weight
of the wall transfers downward to the foundation with the batter.
1) Before capping, layer a final course with flat stones that span the entire width of the wall
This layer acts as a unified tie-rock that evenly distributes the weight of the wall coping.
2) Select desired stones to top your wall. Flagstones and fieldstones are practical wall coping.
Experiment with each type and determine what looks best with the surrounding environment.
3) If flagstone seems appropriate due to its flat and smooth appearance, place each stone atop
the wall snug with adjacent pieces. Allow an overhang of one inch on each side.
4) If fieldstone seems appropriate due to its rustic and rough appearance, place each stone atop
the wall to stand snug with adjacent pieces in a perpendicular fashion. Allow minimal overhang
on each side.
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6.4. Laying wall
A collection of stones piled one on top of the other, dry stone is an iconic building
method found just nearly everywhere in the world. Relying solely on an age-old craft to
create sturdy, reliable structures and characterized by its rustic, interlocking shapes, the
technique has deep roots that stretch back even before the invention of the wheel. Its
principles are simple: stack the stones to create a unified, load-bearing wall. But the
efficient, long-lasting results, coupled with the technique’s cultural significance, have
lead to continued use and updated interpretations all the way to contemporary
architecture today.
Pre-dating the wheel, pottery, metallurgy and writing, dry stone as a structural concept
has been around since at least the 10th millennium BC. Prominent in north-west
Europe, the historic walls that are left are normally dated between 7000-1600BC,
whereas in Southern Europe early examples are traced back to the first Bronze Age
settlements - around 1350BC. Latin America and Africa’s dry stone heritage is slightly
more recent, dating back to roughly 800AD. And as the Northern European nations colonised
the Americas and Australasia they brought with them the storied tradition.
Although on first glance you may dismiss dry stone as a simple, quick building solution, once
you attempt to build something similar you are left with a deep, burning question: how do you
make it stand up?
The core idea is to interlock the stones in such a way that they cease to act independently;
creating the effect of one large stone acting under gravity. Achieving this takes a lot of skill, with
many dry stone wallers investing years to perfect their craft. Covering each joint with a stone on
top—similar to a standard Flemish brick bond—is key, while the bottom is always wider and
contains larger stones to provide support. This secure base sits upon the subsoil in a shallow
channel, transferring the weight directly into the compact earth below. Templates are often used
to maintain a consistent layering and batter (the gradual thinning towards the walls top), and in
more complex projects molds can be utilised to ensure a secure, safe structure.
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Popular in specific areas, its surge to prominence is usually dependant on an abundance of rocky
outcrops, alongside a high proportion of large stones readily found in the topsoil. Harsh
conditions—whether too hot or too bleak—also encourage the use of dry stone, where the
context calls for a more steadfast solution than hedges or wooden fencing.
This direct relationship between what is found and what is built creates regionally specific dry
stone aesthetics. The construction technique is extremely emotive as a result, showcasing an
intense sense of historic and environmental place.
In the British Isles, where dry stone walling is common for denoting land boundaries for farmers,
herders and churchyards alike, the walls are jagged, lateral and grey. Most of Britain‘s 125,000
miles worth of dry stone wall were built in the early 1800s, a response to the Enclosure Acts.
They are often capped with a run of vertical, thinner stone. Other building types used the
construction method, too—in particular the mysterious brochs of Scotland, hollow round
structures with an unknown, much-debated function. Regional heritage groups ensure the craft
remains an essential part of the vernacular.
The Greeks, in their ancient cities of Mycenae and Tiryns, used dry stone as the primary load-
bearing structure. Due to the rounded stones available in the area, a cyclopean aesthetic was
created, differing to its Northern European counterparts
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Self-check-6
Part I: Say True or False
1. Dry stone construction is a type of construction using in building walls and other
structure
5. In dry stone construction the best stones will have lots of surface contact with stones
above and below them, which makes them more stable
6. In dry stone construction the builders start by clearing an area, debris, small stones, and
remains of trees to serve as the foundation.
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Operation sheet 6: laying stone
1. Measuring tape
2. String lines
3. Builder‘s squares
4. Builders lines
5. Spirit level
6. stone hammer
7. Rubber mallets
Lap test-5
Task 1. Laying stone
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Unit seven: Fix slab stone using metal ties and adhesives
This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:
Fix prepare stone slab to metal or masonry
Adhesives
Cement mortar
plaster
Use metal tie or dowels
Fill dowel cavity
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
Fix and prepare stone slab to metal or masonry
Use metal ties and dowels
Fill dowel cavity
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7.1 Fix prepare stone slab to metal or masonry
7.1.1 Adhesives
The most important requirement for a bedding mortar which is intended to transfer loads to the
foundation, be it concrete, brickwork or masonry, is for it to provide complete and permanent
filling of the space. Plain mortars, consisting of cement, aggregate and water, do not have such
characteristics. Several other properties of the bedding mortar such as cohesiveness, rapid
strength build-up, chemical resistance and compatibility with the operating environment are also
important. for most applications, the space between the foundation and the ironwork frame, stone
slab, masonry block or other component, can best be filled by placing the mortar onto the
foundation and then lowering the component and leveling it. a plain sand / cement mortar with
this consistency could be placed in the space and may develop adequate strength. However, after
placement, the simple mortar will lose contact with the component because of settlement,
shrinkage and bleeding and may not be able to resist dynamic forces and impact caused by
traffic. The resultant breakdown of the bedding will cause settlement, misalignment and possibly
danger. To maintain permanent contact with the component, a bedding mortar must be
formulated using special additives with cementations or resin systems. These mortars have a high
early strength, good eba (effective bearing area - which is the actual area of contact under a
bearing surface), and excellent dynamic resistance.
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substrates. The first step in choosing a tile adhesive is to consider the location of the installation
e.g. whether the stones/tiles are to be installed inside or outside the building, to the wall or on the
floor, in a wet or dry area, and the type of receiving substrate e.g. concrete, render, screed
drywall, etc.
Classification of Adhesives
Mixture of hydraulic binding agents, aggregates and additives; to be mixed with water or other
liquid just before use. Type d (dispersion): ready -for-use mixture of binding agents in the form
of polymer dispersion, additives and other mineral fillers. type r (reaction resin): single or multi-
component mixture of synthetic resin, mineral fillers and other additives in which the curing
occurs by chemical reaction.
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Epoxy mortars employ epoxy resin and epoxy hardeners. They are used for sub-floor
applications e.g. concrete, wood & ceramic tile
7.1.3 Plaster
What is plastering?
Plastering is the process of covering rough surfaces of walls, columns, ceilings and
Otherbuilding components with thin coat of mortars to form a smooth durable surface. The c
oatingof mortar is termed as plaster.
Plastering is done to achieve the following objects:
To protect the external surfaces against penetration of rainwater and other atmospherica
gencies.
To give smooth surface in which dust and dirt cannot lodge.
To give decorative effect.
To protect surfaces against vermin.
To conceal inferior materials or defective workmanship.
Requirements of good plaster
The plaster material should fulfill the following requirements:
It should adhere to the background, and should remain adhered during all variations inse
asons and other atmospheric conditions.
It should be hard and durable.
It should possess good workability.
It should be possible to apply it during all weather conditions.
It should be cost efficient.
It should effectively check penetration of moisture.
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Location of surface (i.e. exposed surface or interior surface
Trussed Roof
In trussed roofs, all trusses shall be supported on the eave or roof-band. Where a trussed roof
adjoins a masonry gable, the ends of the purlins shall be carried on and secured to a plate
securely bolted to the band at the top of gable-end masonry (Figure -1).
Gable triangles are very weak when loaded perpendicular to their plane and may fail even in
small earthquakes. Hence, all trusses shall be sufficiently braced to transmit the lateral forces
from the roof to the appropriate cross walls. Also, where possible, gable walls should be made of
lightweight material
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Fig. Intermediate Truss Fixing
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7.3 Fill dowel cavity (grout)
Grout Joints
The width of joints varies with the stone; 3-6mm joints are usually used for smooth, honed or
polished stone whereas 6-10mm joints are used with stone that has a textured finish.
Adhesion installation methods usually require a minimum 6mm joint.
Use spacers to achieve neat corners & uniformity of grout joints.
Grouting
Grout is the mortar used to fill joints. Grouting should only commence when the area is
thoroughly dry – wait at least 24 hours after tile fixing.
Choose a grout color that will complement the natural color of the stone; conduct a small test
first to ensure the correct match.
Grout can be applied with a pointed trowel, rubber grouting trowel or squeegee.
Make sure the grout completely fills the spaces between the tiles to the full depth of the stone tile
leaving no hollow cavities that might allow moisture infiltration.
Wipe off any excess grout as you go, using a rubber squeegee. Drag a clean damp sponge
diagonally over the tiles to prevent the removal of the wet grout out of the joints; wash the
sponge regularly in clean water and wring out excess.
Leave the newly laid and grouted surface to dry and cure for at least 7 days before sealing or
walking on the floor.
Specification of Grouts
The joint width of tiles is not just a matter of design preference. The manufacturing tolerance of
the tiles should also be considered. For example, when using more dimensionally accurate tiles
(e.g. dry pressed tiles), the joint width could be smaller than using dimensionally less accurate
tiles (e.g. extruded tiles).
In accordance to BS 5385-3:2014, the width of the grout joint should not exceed the tile
thickness. There is a provision for wider joints if wider joints are required to accommodate
dimensional irregularities in the tiles, maintain modular control or provide a decorative effect.
The depth of the grout joints should be at least 2/3 of the tile thickness.
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While the minimum joint widths may be different between the wall and floor tiles, it is a good
practice to adopt a uniform joint width for both tiles. This will enable the joints to be consistent
and straight throughout the wall and floor tiles.
Grout is the material that is used to fill up the gap between tiles and support the tiles. It is
classified into cementations and reaction-resin types. They should have suitable fineness and
consistency that are compatible with the designed joint width, such that grout can fill the joints
successfully. Selecting the right type of grout is as important as selecting the right tile and
adhesive. Before proceeding, it is advisable to test its compatibility with the tile. Table 1
provides guidance on the selection criteria in accordance to BS EN 13888 and ISO 13007-3.
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Epoxy-based grout (RG)
Grout is visible and can be water-resistant. However, in most Portland cement based grouts,
water or other liquids can still be absorbed into the joints due to its capillary pores. Table 2.3.1
describes different types of grout and applications.
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Self-check-7
Part I: Choose the best answer
6. One of the following is the classifications of grout in accordance to EN 13888 and ISO
13007-3:
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2. In roof construction the ends of the purlins shall be carried on and secured to a plate
securely bolted to the band at the top of gable-end masonry
3. All trusses shall be sufficiently braced to transmit the lateral forces from the roof to the
appropriate cross walls
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Unit eight: Finish stone, brick & block surfaces and joints
This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:
Remove excess mortar
Rake joints
Brush masonry work
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
Clean excess mortar from masonry surfaces
Rake joints of laid masonry work
Brushing down brickwork, block works and stone
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8.1 Removing excess mortar
Cut out any defective mortar in exposed masonry and tuck point with mortar. Dry clean the
wall first, removing blobs of mortar with a wooden paddle, a brick, a trowel or a metal hoe.
How to Clean Mortar Off stone tool is used, metal colors or surface
Dried-on mortar over the face of brick is unsightly and can ruin the appearance of a wall. The
easiest way to have clean bricks is to prevent mortar splatter during wall construction, but you
can also chisel off the mortar once it's dried. For mortar that you can't remove regardless of what
you do, using muriatic acid to remove the stubborn mortar may be a good solution. Irrespective
of your situation, it's important that you follow the correct procedures and take safety precautions
when cleaning mortar off of stone /brick
Step 1. Use the edge of a trowel to even out the mortar with the wall face. Use a forward lifting
and rolling motion with the short edge of your trowel to even out the mortar with the face of the
brick. Continue to do this as you lay new bricks to prevent mortar from bunching up and creating
large chunks on the bricks.
You can also use a large, clean sponge to even out the mortar with the face of the bricks.
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Step 2. Rub off remaining mortar dust with a medium-soft bristle brush. The goal is to brush
away dust on the face of your brick rather than wiping the mortar dust deeper into the brick.
Avoid pressing down on the brush and wipe away from the surface of the brick. Use a back and
forth motion until the mortar dust on the face of your wall is removed
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Step 3. Set up a scaffold 2 inches (5.08cm) from the wall to prevent mortar splatter. A
scaffold should be set up 2 inches (5.08cm) from the wall to prevent mortar splatter at the
base of your wall. Scaffold boards that are closest to the wall should be angled away and
slightly downward from the wall.
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Step 4. Allow larger clumps of mortar to dry before removing them. If you take all of
these precautionary measures, but large clumps of mortar still end up on your wall, you
should allow them to dry and then attempt to remove them using the chisel or acid
method.
Step 5. Wet down the stone/brick with a garden hose. Ensure that the mortar has had at least
7 days to dry before trying to remove the dried on mortar. Saturating the wall with water
before you chisel will make removing the mortar easier and can protect your bricks from
being damaged. Fully saturate the brick before you start working with a garden hose or with
buckets of water.
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Step 6. Tap the chisel parallel to the brick to remove excess mortar. Hold the chisel at a
20° to 30° angle against the face of your wall on areas that have built-up mortar. Lightly
tap on the end of the chisel and start to break the dried up mortar from off the wall. Start
from the top and work your way to the bottom. Continue to work slowly and carefully
until most of the mortar is removed from the wall.
Break up larger pieces of mortar into smaller more manageable pieces instead of trying to remove it all at
once.
Lime mortar is easier to remove than cement based mortar using this method
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Step 7. Wipe off excess mortar with a hard wire brush. Go in a back and forth motion over the
face of the unit to remove any broken up mortar dust. Try to scrape off any stubborn mortar that
wasn't removed from chiseling. Do not spend too much time in one area or you may discolor the
stone/brick in that area.
Step 8. Wait for mortar to set up before commencing cleaning. While industry standards
generally require masonry to be 7 days old before cleaning, it is possible to start cleaning
operations with chemicals 24 hours after completion of masonry work provided the mortar has
hardened. However, if after cleaning commences the mortar paste in the joints begins to wash
out, then cleaning should be stopped for several more days. For best results, cleaning should be
carried out within 30 days after work is completed.
Rake / rule Joints: A masonry joint in which a thin line has been cut in the face of the
mortar between bricks after it has been smoothed with a metal tool
The joint having all the brick and block laid at an angle to the facing and backing the wall
The object of finishing the joints is to impart better look to the stonework and to make it
more waterproof. Merely drawing one edge of trowel along the joints is detrimental for
brickworks as it may disturb the adhesion between the, mortar and the brick. The finishing of
joints as the brickwork proceeds is termed as jointing whereas finishing of joints after the
brickwork has been completed is known as pointing
How to Rake Joints in Brick Walls
Older brick and mortar walls commonly had raked joints, which are flat mortar joints
slightly recessed from the front edge of the brick. Modern masonry joints often bring the mortar
flush with the front edge to do a better job of sealing out moisture. If you need to repair
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mortar on a brick wall, you should maintain a similar joint with the rest of the mortar. It‘s a
simple process to rake mortar joints. You can even make your own tool to do it.
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2:- Save a chunk of mortar to take with you to the home improvement store so you can try to
match the mortar color. Matching mortar makes the repair work less noticeable, even though all
mortars change color slightly as they age.
3:- Cut a piece of 1-inch-by-2-inch lumber about 4 inches long with a circular saw.
Measure the depth of the raked joints on the brick wall. Hammer a 6d box nail into the end of the
piece of wood.
Leave the same amount of the nail sticking out of the wood as the depth of the joint. This is the
mortar rake.
4:-Mix mortar with water to the consistency of peanut butter. Let the mortar set for
about 10 minutes, then stir it again. This resting period lets the water absorb into the mortar.
5:- Pack mortar into the horizontal joints with a trowel. Smooth the front face of the
joint. Try to avoid letting any mortar fall onto the brick. Repeat the process for the vertical
joints. Let the mortar harden to the point where you cannot see your fingerprint when you press
into the mortar.
6:-Insert the nail head on the rake you made into a vertical joint. Pull the board straight
down to created a raked joint. Remove any mortar you pull away from the joint. Repeat this
process for all the vertical joints, and then move the rake from side to side do all the horizontal
joints. When you finish this step, the repaired joints should all be the same depth and
look like the original raked joints.
7:-Brush the surface of the bricks with a soft brush after the mortar dries to remove any excess
mortar you dropped on them.
Pointing
It is the process of sealing the masonry unit joints with good quality mortar. Sometimes it
gives ornamental /architectural appearance to the brick masonry work. Generally pointing is
done on outer or eternal exposed brick masonry surface
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of the dust. The racked joints after cleaning may be made wet for avoiding loss of moisture from
mortar by absorption.
Application of pointing: - The mortar will be pressed inside the joint. The finishing of the joint
can be done as per the requirement.
Types of pointing
Flush pointing: - formed by pressing mortar inside the joints and finishing it to outer surface of
masonry units.
Half round or concave pointing: - this is modification over flush pointing. Concave groove of
approximate size is formed at the center by special tools. This improves appearance.
Weather struck pointing: this is also a modification over flush pointing. Topside of mortar
joint is pressed inside the racked joint by about 10mm and made inclined up wards. It is suitable
for surfaces exposed to heavy rains, as it gives good drainage. This is also known as cut or
weathered or struck pointing.
Recessed pointing: - mortar is uniformly pressed inside the racked joint by about 5mm or more.
This gives good appearance. And collects dust and may need regular cleaning.
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Finishing of Brick Joints
The object of finishing the joints is to impart better look to the brickwork and to make it more
waterproof. Merely drawing one edge of trowel along the joints is detrimental for brickworks as
it may disturb the adhesion between the, mortar and the brick. The finishing of joints as the
brickwork proceeds is termed as jointing whereas finishing of joints after the brickwork has been
completed is known as pointing
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8.3 Brush masonry work
A masonry helper assists a mason who might be working with stone, brick, or tile. They would
assist the mason to carry the tools and materials needed for the job and set the location up for the
project. They might even help with the mortar and then assist with the site clean-up at the end of
each day
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One of the great things about doing masonry work apart from the pleasure of seeing a fantastic
job well done is in that masonry tools and masonry materials are basic, inexpensive, and easy to
understand and work with. Masonry work requires tools for various purposes i.e. handling of
mortar, for dressing of stone, for cutting of bricks to get required shape etc. As it goes with
traditions in existence since the days of the Ancient Indian and Egypt, masonry deals with some
common elements as crushed stones from the earth and simple metal tools.
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Self-check-8
Part I: Choose the best answer
1. Which one of the following points is true about of finishing the joints
3. It is possible to remove old damaged mortar from bricks using a hammer and chisel
A. True B. False
Part II: Say True or False
1. After grouting, all remaining smears of dried grout or mortar need to be removed before
sealing
2. Removing of removing excess mortar from the wall can be achieved by rubbing lightly
with a dry cloth or scouring pad.
3. Acid based cleaning solutions on porous stone may damage both the stone and grout
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Operation sheet 7: raking joints
Step 2. Save a chunk of mortar to take with you to the home improvement store so you can try to
match the mortar color
Step 3. Cut a piece of 1-inch-by-2-inch lumber about 4 inches long with a circular saw.
Step 4. Mix mortar with water to the consistency of peanut butter
Step 5. Pack mortar into the horizontal joints with a trowel. Smooth the front face of the joint.
Step 6. Insert the nail head on the rake you made into a vertical joint.
Step 7. Brush the surface of the bricks with a soft brush after the mortar dries to remove any
excess mortar you dropped on them
1. Trowels
2. Jointing tools
3. Angle grinder
4. Builders lines
5. Rakes
6. Brooms
Lap test-6
Task 1. Raking joints
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Unit nine: Clean up
This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:
Clean, maintain and store tools and equipment
Dispose and reuse waste materials
Maintaining tools, plants and equipment
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
Clean, maintain and store tools and equipment
Dispose and reuse waste materials
Maintaining tools, plants and equipment
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9.1 Clean, maintain and storing tools and equipment
Maintenance - work that is done regularly to keep equipment, buildings and grounds in good
condition and working order.
An effective maintenance program identified problems long before any equipment or facility
breaks down or deteriorate.
A good maintenance system presents the early discovery of problems, thus providing plenty of
lead time for effective maintenance planning.
Maintenance Program
TYPES OF MAINTENANCE
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A. Preventive Maintenance
1. Time-Based Maintenance
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Eg. Change oil every month.
2. Condition-Based Maintenance
Monitoring of temperature, hydraulic fluid, wear, surface condition, crack, leaks, vibration,
corrosion/erosion, electric insulation, etc.
A. Predictive Maintenance.
Maintenance performed at a scheduled point in time when the maintenance activity is most cost
effective and before the equipment fails.
C. Corrective Maintenance
Eg. Engine overhaul. Also referred to as Proactive Maintenance performed to stabilize the
reliability of machines or equipment.
2. Breakdown Maintenance
Repair done when the equipment fails while in operation. Also referred to as Reactive
Maintenance
All excess material should not be wasted, but used or safely removed from site according
to appropriate legislation.
Identify the waste types that are likely to be produced and aim to reduce the amount of
waste as much as possible, through identifying routes to reuse or recycle materials.
Control access to storage areas to minimize risk of theft or damage.
Set up a dedicated store for timber, from which workers can re-use supplies
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.-Store any materials away from sensitive locations in fenced off areas.
-Label all waste storage and skips, detailing the type of waste.
-Employ a just-in-time policy to deliver materials in order to reduce the storage time on
site.
Consider using recycled materials and recycle any materials used on site rather than
disposing of them (including timber, Brick Block) CIRIA provides lists of recycled
materials that companies will accept.
Reusing refers to using an object as it is without treatment. This reduces pollution and waste,
thus making it a more sustainable process.
The reusing process is not just about re-purposing materials, but the object as it is. This includes
buying and selling used goods and repairing items rather than discarding them.
Reusing is better than recycling because it saves the energy that comes with having to dismantle
and re-manufacture products. It also significantly reduces waste and pollution because it reduces
the need for raw materials, saving both forests and water supplies.
Purpose
When looking into environmental sustainability
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9.3 Maintaining tools, plants and equipment
1. cleaning
A clean, well-ordered, attractive work environment sets the tone of your establishment. It
encourages tidy work habits in employees. It helps reduce fatigue. It promotes good worker-
management relations. It also gives a lift to morale, which is reflected in the quality of
production and overall efficiency. Good housekeeping is also a good advertisement for your
company. Customers and clients have more confidence in an organization when they we work
being carried out efficiently in clean, pleasant, well ordered surroundings. There‘s an even more
important reason why good housekeeping matters — it makes the undertaking a safer place to
work in.
Proper tools and equipment are essential for the effective operation of any civil works site.
Equipping the construction site with the correct tools and equipment plays an essential role in
achieving timely and good quality results. For every construction activity there is an optimal
combination of tools, equipment and labor. Depending on the nature and content of the works,
the technical staff needs to know which tools to use and how to effectively combine them with
manual labor.
Once on site, equipment requires trained operators and supervisory staff who are proficient in its
operation and maintenance.
Faulty equipment is a common reason for delays on construction sites. A major responsibility of
the project management is to ensure that tools and equipment are maintained in a good condition
and are readily available when required for the various work activities.
For certain construction activities, particularly hauling of materials and compaction, high labor
productivity and good quality of work may be difficult to achieve using only manual labor and
hand tools. In such cases, using light construction equipment can increase the efficiency of work.
Site supervisors need to know how to use the tools and how to operate the equipment in order to
secure good work progress and the expected high quality results. It is also important that staff
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know the full potential, as well as the limitation, of the use of manual and equipment-based
works methods.
Finally, tools and equipment need regular maintenance, requiring good workshop facilities, a
reliable supply of spare parts and qualified mechanical staff.
Instructions
1. Clean the construction tools and equipment after each day's work. While a
thorough cleaning is not required each day, a general wipe-down and removal
of the heaviest construction dirt is key to extending the life of the tools.
2. Keep airlines and electrical cords protected from heavy foot-traffic and
construction vehicles. Forklifts, or other motorized machinery, can easily cut
or crush cords and hoses, preventing the tools from working properly, and
creating potential electrical hazards. Cover the electrical cords with purpose-
built ramps or casing.
3. Lubricate air tools and pneumatic equipment before each day's use.
Condensation in the airline creates an environment for corrosion inside
pneumatic tools. Coating the internal components of these tools with air-tool
oil will displace the moisture and prevent tool corrosion.
4. Inspect and repair all construction equipment and tools at the completion of
each job. Make all repairs to the equipment that are necessary for future
construction work. This will prevent time being wasted repairing faulty
equipment at future construction job sites
In construction workplace all tools, equipments and vehicles should be maintained properly so
that workers are not seriously at risk of extinction. Work place management should inspect all
tools, equipments and vehicles, whether it is properly working or not. To limit downtime and
extend productivity we should maintain effectively the tools, equipments, machinery and
vehicles. So that we can reduce the operational costs of the construction project. It is also
important to know that all the maintenance tasks are also hazardous too. The successful
maintenance program is:
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1. Good planning and managing effectively
2. Identifying and controlling hazards at workplaces
3. Define operational procedures
4. Providing proper training to workers for effective utilization of tools, machinery,
equipment and vehicles.
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Keep Floors Clean: Every year thousands of work injuries are caused by people falling. Floor
conditions are responsible for many of these accidents. When floors are given the right treatment
they are much easier to keep clean and hygienic.
Spilt oil and other liquids should be cleaned up at once. Chips, shavings, dust, and similar wastes
should never be allowed to accumulate. They should be removed frequently, or better still, be
suitably trapped before they reach the floor
Paint the Walls: Paint is one of the cheapest means of renovating walls, and a fresh coat of paint
can give a boost to morale. Light-colored walls reflect light. Dirty or dark-colored walls absorb
light. Dirty walls have a depressing effect and encourage dirty habits and sloppy attitudes.
Choose suitable colors to paint walls, ceilings and working surfaces. See that the paintwork is
cleaned down periodically
4. checking,
Prepare Check List:
A sound method to ensure that housekeeping is done is for management to prepare a check list to
suit the requirements of the workplace. The following can serve as a guide for nearly all
industries.
Sample Checklist:
Buildings
(1) Walls clean.
(2) Windows clean.
(3) Walls free of unnecessary hangings.
(4) Proper light provided.
(5) Platforms in good condition.
(6) Stairs clean and well lit. Handrails and steps of sound construction and well
maintained.
Floors
(1) Good floor surface.
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(2) Kept clean and free of loose material. Clean in corners, behind radiators, along walls,
and around pillars or columns.
(3) Free of oil, grease, etc.
(4) Operating floors, or work positions free of loose scrap, metal or other materials.
(5) Free of unnecessary articles.
(6) Bins provided for refuse.
Aisles
(1) Free of obstructions.
(2) Safe and free passage to fire-fighting equipment and fire exits.
(3) Safe and free access to work positions.
(4) Clearly defined.
The good housekeeping checklist Check off your housekeeping programme against this
checklist. Better still, make a more comprehensive list of your own.
(3) Area around machines clean and free of rags, paper, etc.
(4) Lockers and cupboards clean and free of unnecessary material both on top and inside.
(9) First-aid facilities and equipment fully stocked and in clean condition
Stock and Material
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(2) Kept in storage areas.
Tools
(1) Yard and building surrounds free of refuse such as fruit peelings, scrap, wood, iron,
etc.
Safer workplaces
Greater efficiency.
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Self-check-9
Part I: Choose the best answer
5. Which of the following Information is true about Machinery and Equipment neatness
C. Benches and seats clean and in good condition. D. All of the above
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D. All of the above
Part II: Say True or False
3. To minimize risk in the work site storage waste materials according to their kind.
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Reference
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Participants of this Module (training material) preparation
No Name Qualificati Field of Study Organizatio Mobile E-mail
on (Level) n/ number
Institution
1 Habtamu B(BSC) Civil Engineering Ethio Italy 0948284573/ wendimagegnhabtamu@
Wendmagegn poly 0910797363 gmil.com
2 Derbabaw Mulaw A(MSC) Con Mgt Gonder 0967593066 Derbabawmulaw2020@
gmil.com
3 Tibebnesh G/ Micael A(MSC) Con Mgt Awasa 0919116033 Tibebnesh1 @ gmil.com
5 Remedan Mohamed B(BSC) Con Mgt Harer poly 0974720826 Mohamed remedan82@
gmil.com