Component-I (A) – Personal details:

Prof. P. Bhaskar Reddy

Sri Venkateswara University, Tirupati.

Prof. Ravi Korisettar

Emeritus Professor
Karnatak University, Dharwad.

Dr. Jitu Mishra

Virasat E Hind Foundation, Bombay.

Prof. Ravi Korisettar

Karnatak University, Dharwad.

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Component-I (B) – Description of module:

Subject Name Indian Culture

Paper Name Art and Architecture of India

Module Name / Title Art and Architecture of Nawabs of Bhopal

Module Id IC / SCHI / 25

Pre requisites

Objectives  The origin and evolution of Bhopal State

 The contribution of Begum Rulers for Bhopal’s
Art and Architecture
 The architectural features of Bhopal
monuments
 The significance of Bhopal Architecture in the
architectural tradition of greater India.

Keywords Bhopal, Islamnagar, Dost Muhammad Khan,

Nawab Begums of Bhopal

E-text (Quadrant-I) :

1. Introduction

The Nawabs of Bhopal were the Muslim rulers of the princely state of Bhopal. The last
Nawab was Hamidullah Khan, during whose rein the Bhopal state was subjugated to the
Union of Indian Republic in 1949.

Currently the Bollywood actor Saif Ali Khan is the titular Nawab of Bhopal.

The female Nawabs were known as the Begum of nawab, their official title being Nawab
Begum of Bhopal.

Nawab Dost Muhammad Khan Bahadur (circa 1672-1728); founded the state of Bhopal in
1707 and ruled it until 1728. He also founded the city of Islamnagar and Bhopal was founded
by Dost Mohammad Khan in 1716 and early 1720s.

2. Historical Background

Dost Mohammad Khan (1657–1728 CE) was the founder of the Bhopal State in central
India. He founded the modern city of Bhopal, the present capital of the Madhya Pradesh.
Dost was a Pashtun from Tirah, in the Peshawar region of Pakistan. His father Nur
Mohammad Khan was a Pashtun nobleman belonging to the Mirazikhel clan of the Orakzai
tribe.

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In his mid-20s, Dost Mohammad Khan was engaged to Mehraj Bibi, a beautiful girl from his
own Orakzai clan. However, Mehraj was later betrothed to his cousin, because Khan's
aggressive and rough behaviour. An angry Khan killed his cousin, leading to his ostracism
from his family.

Attracted by the promise of a bright future in the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb's service, Khan
set out for Jalalabad, near Delhi, where his Pashtun relatives had settled. He was welcomed
by the family of his relative Jalal Khan, the Mughal mansabdar (a military aristocrat) of
Jalalabad's suburb Lohari. He arrived in Jalalabad sometime between 1696 and 1703, and
spent some time with Jalal Khan's family. During a birthday celebration, a fight broke out
between Dost and one of Jalal Khan's sons, over one of the young housemaids. Jalal Khan's
son attacked Dost with a bow and arrow, and Dost killed him with a dagger in retaliation.

Following this incident, Dost Mohammad Khan decided to flee to Delhi, the Mughal capital.
His horse collapsed and died after six hours of galloping. Khan continued his journey on foot
and reached Karnal. While waiting in front of a bakery to steal some food, he was
recognized by the old clergyman Mullah Jamali of Kashgar, who had taught him Koran in
Tirah. Mullah Jamali had left Pushtunistan, and had founded a madrasa in Delhi. Khan spent
around a year in Delhi under Mullah Jamali's shelter, after which he decided to join the
Mughal army. The Mullah helped him financially by giving him a horse and five asharfis (gold
coins).

Dost Mohammad Khan joined the Mughal Army at Delhi in 1703. He rapidly rose through the
ranks, and was assigned to the Malwa province in central India. After the death of the
emperor Aurangzeb, Khan started providing mercenary services to several local chieftains in
the politically unstable Malwa region. In 1709, he took on the lease of Berasia estate, while
serving the small Rajput principality of Mangalgarh as a mercenary. He invited his Pashtun
kinsmen to Malwa to create a group of loyal associates. Khan successfully protected
Mangalgarh from its other Rajput neighbors, married into its royal family, and took over the
state after the death of its heirless dowager Rani.

Khan sided with the local Rajput chiefs of Malwa in a rebellion against the Mughal Empire.
Defeated and wounded in the ensuing battle, he ended up helping an injured Sayyid Hussain
Ali Khan Barha, one of the Sayyid Brothers. This helped him gain the friendship of the
Sayyid Brothers, who had become highly influential king-makers in the Mughal court.
Subsequently, Khan annexed several territories in Malwa to his state. Khan also provided
mercenary services to the Rani Kamlapati, the ruler of a small Gond kingdom, and received
the territory of Bhopal (then a small village) in lieu of payment. After the Rani's death, he
killed her son and annexed the Gond kingdom.[7] During the early 1720s, he transformed
the village of Bhopal into a fortified city, and claimed the title of Nawab, which was used by
the Muslim rulers of princely states in India.

Khan's support to the Sayyid Brothers earned him the enmity of the rival Mughal nobleman
Nizam-ul-Mulk. The Nizam invaded Bhopal in March 1724, forcing Khan to cede much of his
territory, give away his son as hostage and accept the Nizam's suzerainty. In his final years,
Khan sought inspiration from Sufi mystics and saints, veering towards spiritualism. He and
the other Pathans who settled in Bhopal during his reign, brought the Pathan and Islamic
influence to the culture and architecture of Bhopal.

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The next prominent Nawab was Faiz Muhammad Khan Bahadur, (r.1742-1777) the third
Nawab of Bhopal. He was the son of Y Muhammad the second Nawab of Bhopal, and the
stepson of Mamola Bai a very influential Hindu wife of Y Muhammad. Faiz Muhammad Khan
had devoted himself to prayer, meditation, recitation of the Quran and Qawali. He travelled
throughout Bhopal and even into the dangerous Maratha held territories for the sake of
spreading Sufi teachings. He often visited Delhi and prayed beside the Mughal Emperor
Muhammad Shah in the Pearl Mosque.

Following him there were few more short-lived Nawabs that ruled Bhopal till the beginning of
the 19th century.

3. Nawab Begums of Bhopal

In 1819, 18-year-old Qudsia Begum (also known as Gohar Begum) took over the reins after
the assassination of her husband. She was the first female ruler of Bhopal. She declared
that her 2-year old daughter Sikander will follow her as the ruler. None of the male family
members dared to challenge her decision. She ruled till 1837 when she died having
adequately prepared her daughter for ruling the state.

Her daughter Nawab Sikandar Begum ruled from 1860 to 1868.

Begum Sultan Shah Jehan ruled from 1844 to 1860 and 1868 to 1901. Shahjahan was the
only surviving child of Sikandar Begum, sometime and her husband Jahangir Mohammed
Khan. She was recognised as ruler of Bhopal in 1844 at the age of six. Her mother wielded
power as regent during her minority. However, in 1860, her mother Sikandar Begum was
recognised by the British as ruler of Bhopal in her own right, and Shahjahan was set aside.
During her reign the first postage stamps of the Bhopal state were issued.

Begum Kaikhusrau Jahan ruled from 1901 to 1926 and died 1930.

4. Islamnagar

Islamnagar is a village in near Bhopal on Bhopal – Berasia Road. It was formerly a fortified
city and was the capital of the Bhopal princely state for a brief period. The ruins of the
palaces built by Bhopal's founder Dost Mohammad Khan still exist at Islamnagar.

Originally Islamnagar was known as Jagadishpur. It was founded by the local Rajput
chieftains. In the early 18th century, the place was captured and renamed to Islamnagar
("city of Islam") by Dost Mohammad Khan, the founder of the Bhopal princely state.
Islamnagar was the original capital of the Dost Mohammad Khan's state.

In 1723 CE Dost Mohammad Khan had to surrender the Islamnagar Fort to Nizam-ul-Mulk,
the founder of Asaf Jahi Dynasty in Hyderabad after a brief siege. Khan was reduced to the
position of a kiledar (fort commander) under the Nizam after a peace treaty. The Scindias of
Gwalior controlled the Islamnagar fort from 1806 to 1817, when it was restored to Bhopal
following a treaty.

Several members of the royal family of Bhopal, including Shah Jahan Begum, were born in
Islamnagar.

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Islamnagar fort

Nothing much is left now in Islamnagar, except the fortification running through green
farmlands and the two beautiful palaces that Dost Mohammed Khan built, Chaman Mahal
and Rani Mahal.

Chaman Mahal

The Chaman Mahal is a splendid monument built by Dost Khan in the 18 th century within a
Charbagh garden. The red sandstone building stands amidst luxuriant gardens and
fountains. The building is decorated with lovely columns and arches adorned with floral
motifs in the Mughal architectural style. A major feature of Chaman Mahal is the Sheesh
Mahal near the doorway lavishly decorated with floral motifs. A hammam was built beside
the Chaman Mahal. Today both the hammam and fountains are no longer filled with fragrant
water, but are reminders of the flamboyance and extravagance of the bygone era.

Rani Mahal

Rani Mahal is a double storeyed complex meant for the royal women residents of zenana. It
was also built in the early 18th century and has a colonnaded Diwan-e-Aam. Rani Mahal is a
rectangular building with deep arches. A major feature of this monument is a beautiful
baradari which was built inside. This modest structure emphasizes on simplicity and comfort
rather than luxury. There are small rooms, with very basic dimensions and attachments,
located on the ground floor.

5. Bhopal

During the early 1720s, Khan founded the city of Bhopal into a fortified city and assumed the
title of Nawab. Soon Islamic influence was brought to the culture and architecture in the
foundation of Bhopal. After Khan's death in 1728, the Bhopal state remained under the
influence of the Nizam of Hyderabad. The state also paid tribute to the Marathas, who
defeated the Mughals and the Nawab of Bhopal at the Battle of Bhopal in 1737.

Nawab Faiz Muhammed Khan (1742–1777) had moved the capital from Islamnagar to
Bhopal with the building of a fort called Fatehgarh.

The citadel of Fatehgarh was established on the highest plateau towards the north of Bara
Talab. The fortified Bhopal city, also called ‘Sher-e-Khas’, enclosed an area of 1.5 sq. km
with a city wall that was 10 m high, 2-3 m thick and 1.2 km in total length. A large number of
civic constructions took place during this period, resulting in a varied and sophisticated urban
fabric. With the active participation of people the city was filled with fort walls, hammams,
hathi khannas, serais and mosques. Hammam was a public bathing area with many
windowless chambers. One of the hammams has been survived till toady and also is the
only functional historic hammam in the entire country. Descendents of Hajjam Hummu
Khalida, who had received Hammam – E – Kadami as a gift from Nawab Dost Muhammad
Khan has kept it functional without any disruptions for the past 400 years.

The ‘Serais’ were structures where the visiting merchants were given shelter during their
business visits to the city. The ‘hathi khanna’ was an enclosure similar in form to the ‘serai’.

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It was meant for housing the elephants and their ‘mahaots’. The streets were narrow, the
maximum width being 4 m. The buildings on the street sides rose to three to four floors
giving a strong sense of enclosure to the streets.

Nawab Faiz Muhammed Khan was a religious recluse, and the state was effectively ruled by
his stepmother Mamola Bai. The state became a British protectorate in 1818 and was ruled
by the descendents of Dost Mohammad Khan until 1949, when it was merged with the
Republic of India. For two years after the departure of the British from India in 1947, Bhopal
had survived as an independent state.

6. Early Monuments in Bhopal

Dhai Seedhi Ki Masjid

Located inside the campus of Gandhi Medical College, Dhai Seedhi Ki Masjid is the oldest
Mosque in Bhopal. Dhai Seedhi Ki Masjid which means Mosque of two and half steps is
considered as the smallest mosque in Asia. Dhai Seedi Ki Masjid is in one of the
watchtowers. It was initially built as a makeshift mosque during the construction of the
Fatehgarh fort started by Dost Mohammad Khan. It was built so that the guards deployed at
Fatehgarh Fort could perform Namaaz.

Taj Mahal – The Palace of Sultan Shah Jahan, Begum of Bhopal

Bhopal, the burgeoning cosmopolitan capital city of Madhya Pradesh is also referred to as
the City of Nawabs. Among her erstwhile rulers was Shahjehan Begum, a prolific builder
who is credited with the construction of the imposing Taj – Ul – Masjid, the largest mosque in
India.

She named her capital, Shahjehanabad which was counted one amongst the most beautiful
and well planned cities of the 19th century. Some of the other structures built by her are Ali
Manzil, Benazir Palace and the Taj Mahal Palace.

Her daughter Sultanjehan Begum writes: ‘Her Highness’s love for erecting large buildings
and palaces was in no way less than that her great namesake, the Emperor Shahjehan of
Delhi. She had three palaces constructed in the Mughal style for her personal use’.

Taj Mahal Palace is located near Taj – Ul – Masjid. It was built as the Begum's residence, at
a cost of ₹ 3,000,000. The construction of Taj Mahal had spanned over a period of 13 years,
from 1871 to 1884 CE. It was one of the largest palaces of the world built at that time. The
building was originally named Raj Mahal ("royal palace"). The British Resident at Bhopal,
highly impressed with the architecture, suggested that the palace be renamed the Taj Mahal,
the Taj Mahal at Agra having been built by the Begum's namesake Shah Jahan. The begum
accepted the suggestion and the palace was renamed to Taj Mahal. The Begum is said to
have ordered a three-year-long celebration called Jashn-e-Taj Mahal after the completion of
the building. The palace was part of a complex of buildings along the three lakes that
includes the Benazir Palace, which was the begum's summer palace, and the Taj-Ul-Masjid
Mosque. The palace has been built in the Indo-Saracenic style and is kept cool by the winds
blowing in from the lakes. The palace contains 120 rooms, a hall of mirrors or sheesh

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mahal and the savon bhadon pavilion, an elaborate fountain like structure that simulated the
effect of rain.

After the partition of India in 1947, Nawab Hamidullah Khan allowed Sindhi refugees to stay
in the palace. They stayed in Taj Mahal for around 4 years, before shifting to Bairagarh. The
palace suffered some damage during this period. After India's independence, some
members of the royal family of Bhopal stayed at the palace, but gradually moved away, as
they had no money for the repairs. By 2008, large parts of the palace complex had
collapsed.

Benazir Palace

Benazir Palace built in 1875 was a pleasure garden and a palace to accommodate state
dignitaries. Lord and Lady Minto stayed here in 1909 during their visit to India. The palace
was built around three water bodies and overlooks one, the Motia Talab. The other two
water bodies are the Noor Mahal Talab and the Munshi Hussain Talab.

Benazir Palace is built in H shape encloses stepped terraces and water fountains. A series
of steps and plinths descend down to Motia Talab. The building is a perfect blend of Mughal,
Rajput and European architecture. Steel columns, carved wooden partition, stain glass
windows, extensive carvings on walls and in the royal hamam are some of the attractions of
this palace.

The grounds attached to the palace were used for ceremonial processions, parades and
were also used as congregation grounds by the subjects. Steps on both the sides of the
ground create an arena like setting that can be used by people for sitting during sports.
Mahatma Gandhi addressed a rally here in 1929.

Today, the Benazir Palace is crumbling and has been encroached upon by locals. The
neglected palace stands as a testimony to the dying heritage of the city of Nawabs.

Shaukat Mahal

One of the most unique architectural marvels of Bhopal is the 180-year-old Shaukat Mahal.
Built in Indo-French design Shaukat Mahal was constructed in 1830s as a wedding gift for
Sikander Jehan Begum — the first full-fledged female ruler of Bhopal.

The mahal’s design is attributed to Bourbons of Bhopal — considered descendent of

renowned French kings. According to Wikipedia: ‘The Bourbons of India, in India, claim to be
legitimate descendants of the House of Bourbon, descended from Jean Philippe de
Bourbon, Count of Clermont-en-Beauvaisis, an exiled French noble who served in Mughal
Emperor Akbar's court. The Family is also known as "Bourbon-Bhopal", a name derived from
the City of Bhopal in central India where their last few generations resided and worked in the
Pre-Independent Indian Bhopal State Royal Court’.

The Church like inputs and the crown on the façade makes it an architectural marvel. It is an
integral part of the famous royal quadrangle of Bhopal around the Iqbal Maidan (earlier
Khirniwala Maidan).

The building is however in a bad state of preservation.

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Sadar Manzil

The historic palace Sadar Manzil was the darbar for last Nawab Begum of Bhopal Sultan
Jahan Begum. This brick-red building has an ostentatious appearance, and the gardens that
surround the palace makes the Manzil look as pretty as a postcard. Presently it houses the
office of Bhopal Municipal Corporation.

Sultan Jahan Begum however had preferred the quiet and serene environment at the
outskirts of the city. She developed her own walled mini-city, named Ahmedabad after her
late husband (not to be confused with Ahmedabad, Gujarat). This city was situated at Tekri
Maulvee Zai-ud-din, which was located a distance of one and half kilometre from the fort.
She built a palace called Qaser-e-Sultani (now Saifia College). This area became a posh
residency as royalty and elite moved here. The Begum installed the first water pump here
and developed a garden called 'Zie-up-Abser'. She also constructed a new palace called
'Noor-us-Sabah', which has been converted into a heritage hotel. She was the first president
of the All India Conference on Education and first chancellor of the Aligarh Muslim
University.

Moti Masjid

This mosque was built by Sikander Jahan Begum in 1862.

The mosque stands on a raised plinth. The history of the mosque is associated with
emancipated deeds and thoughts of its buildr Sikandar Jahan Begum. She brought a
revolution in Bhopal Princely State mainly in the areas architectural and infrastruce
development. Under her patronage a large number of roads, buildings and monuments had
been built, Moti Masjid being one of them.

The architecture of the Moti Masjid resembles that of the well-known Jama Masjid in Delhi.
However, it is relatively smaller in size. Made of dark red bricks, the main edifice has a
marble facade while the main prayer hall is constructed with lustrous white marble that
shimmers like a pearl and thus, the mosque got its name as the Pearl Mosque. Two red
minarets with golden spiked cupolas stand proud on either side of the building.

Jama Masjid

The Jama Masjid is located in the Chowk area of Bhopal.

Made of red stones, it was constructed by Nawab Kudasia Begum, the 8th ruler of the
Bhopal kingdom in 1832 CE. It was completed in 1857 CE. Its architecture is based on the
same four garden systems as in Delhi’s Jama Masjid. It has entrances from three directions.
There is a huge courtyard inside.

The mosque has three bulbous domes, which can be seen from distance. It is lavishly
decked out with a sequence of white plastered alabaster arches The quibla wall has been
lavishly alienated into a sequence of fine looking miharabs with well-known ogee curves.
There are gold spikes in its minarets.

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Taj – Ul – Masjid

Taj-ul-Masjid is the largest mosque in Bhopal. The construction of the Mosque was initiated
during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar by Nawab Shah Jahan Begum
(1844–1860 and 1868–1901) and continued to be built by her daughter Sultan Jahan
Begum, till her lifetime. The mosque was not completed due to lack of funds and was
completed only recently in 1985. Taj-ul-Masjid is the largest mosque in Bhopal.

The construction of the Mosque was initiated during the reign of the Mughal
Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar by Nawab Shah Jahan Begum (1844–1860 and 1868–1901)
and continued to be built by her daughter Sultan Jahan Begum, till her lifetime.

The mosque was not completed due to lack of funds and was completed only recently in
1985.

It has a double-storeyed gateway with four recessed archways and nine cusped multifold
openings in the main prayer hall.

The Quibla wall in the prayer hall is carved with eleven recessed arches and has fine
screens of trellis work.

The massive pillars in the hall hold 27 ceilings through squinted arches of which 16 ceilings
are decorated with ornate petaled designs.

7. Water Works under the Nawabs of Bhopal

Bhopal is known as the city of lakes because of its large number of wetlands.

The most prominent lake in Bhopal is Bada Talab or the Upper Lake which has catchment of
360 km. It was originally built during the rule of Raja Bhoj in the 11th Century CE but was
repaired and expanded in the 19th century.

A major extension to Bhopal became imminent when Pul Pukhta was constructed in 1794
CE. Pul Pukhta was a stone masonry dam 275 m long and 21 m wide. Spanning the Ban
Ganga and the Patra valleys, it collected water in the form of a small lake one-tenth the size
of Bara Talab, and was named Chhota Talab. The construction was commissioned by
Chote Khan, a minister of Nawab Hayat Muhammad Khan Bahadur. A number of earlier
wells were merged in this lake.

The baoli at Bara Bagh is a beautiful example of step-well architecture. Constructed in red
sandstone, the baoli has a two storied space above the water level. The steps leading into
the water are flanked with stone carved walls and the columned chambers above the water
level are aesthetically pleasing.

Jehagirabad also has the remains of an aqua-duct which can be seen on the southeast bank
of Chhota Talab. Water was pulled up to a height of about 15 m by the Persian technique
‘chawars’ into the water channels on top of a gradually sloping arched wall. ‘Chawars’ were
leather bags used to lift water from wells with the help of animal power such as bull power.
This water travelled a distance of 1.75 km and flowed into a pond. This pond serviced Noor
Bagh and also met the water needs of the Afghan troops quartered in the area.

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In Sehjanabad, three terraced lakes were created with water from one cascading into the
next. The palaces and residences of the elite were located along these lakes; the uppermost
of these lakes or ‘talabs’ being the Motia Talab spread across a 230 m x 230 m area;
Noormahal Talab as the intermediate level lake spread in a 175 m x 230 m area; and the
lowest was the Munshi Hussaini Talab with 115 m x 230 m spread. The three lakes were
dependent on the surface run-off water from the seasonal rains. To maintain the balance
and the level of water in these lakes, an additional reservoir was constructed to the north of
Shahjehanabad. An elaborate system of brick-lined vaulted drains exited to collect water and
bring it to the lake. These channels passed through important buildings before delivering
water to the Talab. The channels were transformed into splashing fountains, gurgling
cascades, and silent ‘chadars’ (sheets of water) or passed through beautifully carved stone
streams. Rose water or ‘kewda’ was added to this water to cool and freshen the air.

8. Summary

The architecture and urban design employed during the Nawab rule in Bhopal shows deep
respect for nature and sustainable planning practices. Today Bhopal is a bustling modern
smart city, thanks to the vision of its erstwhile rulers who had sown seeds of its progress.

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