Ollscoil na hÉireann, Corcaigh

National University of Ireland, Cork

Beaufort Building Visit

Report prepared by
Nicholas Myers 119477054

for the module

CE6043 Coastal and Harbour Engineering
as part of the degree of
ME (Civil, Structural and Environmental)

University College Cork

School of Engineering and Architecture

Lecturer: Dr. Jimmy Murphy

2023
Ollscoil na hÉireann, Corcaigh CE6043 Coastal and Harbour Engineering
National University of Ireland, Cork Beaufort Building Visit

Table of Contents
1. INCREDIBLE JOURNEY....................................................................................... 1
1.1 What was the fundamental cause of erosion at this location? ............................. 1
1.2 What mistakes were made in the design and implementation of the coastal
protection scheme?............................................................................................. 2
1.3 Do you think that the coastal protection scheme addressed the core issue at this
site? .................................................................................................................... 2
1.4 Comment on the importance of public acceptance when developing coastal
erosion solutions. ................................................................................................ 2
1.5 Generally, what did you learn about coastal processes and costal engineering
from watching this video?.................................................................................... 3
2. LABORATORY VISIT ........................................................................................... 4
2.1 Wave Celerity Calculation ................................................................................... 4
2.1.1 Tabulate and plot measured wave celerity and compare them to values
calculated using linear wave theory. ........................................................ 4
2.1.2 Comment on your results......................................................................... 5
2.2 Calculate moment of inertia of a floating breakwater structure based on
measurements taken during lab visit. .................................................................. 6
2.3 Write a paragraph on other aspects of the lab visit.............................................. 7

Table of Figures
Figure 1: Westhampton beach devastation ........................................................................... 1
Figure 2: Measured Times .................................................................................................... 4
Figure 3: Celerity (Measured)................................................................................................ 4
Figure 4: Linear Wave Theory Formulae ............................................................................... 4
Figure 5: Celerity (Theoretical) .............................................................................................. 5
Figure 6: Theoretical Celerity vs Measured Celerity .............................................................. 5
Figure 7: Comparison............................................................................................................ 5
Figure 8: Inertia Calculation .................................................................................................. 6
Figure 9: Radius of Gyration Calculation ............................................................................... 6

119477054 November 2023 Page i

Ollscoil na hÉireann, Corcaigh CE6043 Coastal and Harbour Engineering
National University of Ireland, Cork Beaufort Building Visit

1. INCREDIBLE JOURNEY
1.1 What was the fundamental cause of erosion at this location?
The fundamental cause of erosion at Westhampton beach was a combination
of multiple factors. Primarily the erosion was caused by the curtailment of sand
from the long shore drift effect going from east to west long the barrier Island,
leading to the disappearance of not only the beach but the natural dune that
protected the communities. This was caused by two man made actions. Firstly,
after storms in the 1930s opened an inlet called the Shinnecock Inlet. Jetties
were installed to keep the inlet open, without the jetties the inlet would have
naturally closed. This was the first reduction in sand via longshore drift jumping
the erosion rate from 1-2 ft per annum to 12 ft. The second reason was the 11
out of 22 originally planned groynes built by the US Army Corps of engineers in
the 1960s. The rest of the groynes were not completed due to a breach of the
barrier island and the resulting cost to renourish the beach. This left the western
end of the Westhampton Beach unprotected and vulnerable to storm activity.
As soon as the groynes were constructed, 20 feet of beach down current (west)
eroded.
These groynes left the western end unprotected for 30 plus years leading to the
devastation of caused by North-eastern storms. These storms created inlets that
broke through the barrier reef swallowing homes and growing up to 1000s of
feet in length.

Figure 1: Westhampton beach devastation

Student No. Month Year

Ollscoil na hÉireann, Corcaigh CE6043 Coastal and Harbour Engineering
National University of Ireland, Cork Beaufort Building Visit

1.2 What mistakes were made in the design and implementation of the
coastal protection scheme?
The coastal protection scheme was very flawed for numerous reasons. Primarily
the fact that the project of the full 22 groynes was not completed. However,
the groynes would not have solved the entre problem, the only moved the
problem westward and would resultantly sacrifice the west end for
Westhampton beach. Secondly the groynes themselves were too long, they
stuck out too far into the surf than was necessary and were constructed too
close together. As a result, the beach with in the groyne field became ever
nourished by the build up of sediment from the longshore drift effect. The
homes within this area became over protects as the natural build up of dunes
now blocked their oceanfront view.

1.3 Do you think that the coastal protection scheme addressed the core
issue at this site?
I do believe that the new coastal protection system addressed the core issue
of the erosion. The core issue was the reduction and near removal of the
longshore drift on the west end of the barrier island. The new scheme addresses
that. The new scheme involves multiple different solutions. Firstly, the last two
groynes. 14 and 15 are tapered off of to increased sediment flow from the east,
with the materials then being used to create another groyne, 14a, between
the two. Secondly the beach was renourished with sand taken from 2 miles off
shore, this was sued to recreate the original sand dunes protecting the beach.
As a result, a 15 ft high and 75 ft wide dune running the length of the island was
created in addition to a 300ft wide beach now spanning the entire length. The
dunes themselves are now protected with fencing and a fresh planting of
marram grass and elevated always to prevent wind and human erosion. And
thirdly every winter, artificially nourishment occurs where tons of sand is
dredged up and pumped on to the beach to mimic natural nourishment. Each
of these solutions are to mimic the natural longshore drift effect that has not
been present for nearly half a decade and to rectify the effects of the lack of
transport of sediment.

1.4 Comment on the importance of public acceptance when developing

coastal erosion solutions.
Public acceptance is integral to the success of coastal erosion solutions.
Engaging the community, addressing concerns, and fostering collaboration
create a foundation for sustainable and effective strategies that benefit both
the environment and the people living in coastal areas. Coastal erosion
solutions often require ongoing maintenance and adaptability to changing
environmental conditions. Public acceptance ensures continued support for
these efforts over the long term. As well some erosion solutions may require
changes in communities’ behaviour, such as restrictions on construction or
beach access. Public acceptance is crucial for gaining cooperation and
compliance with these changes. When the communities understand the
reasons behind certain restrictions, there is a greater chance that they will
comply and accept the restrictions, aiding in the overall effectiveness of
erosion control efforts.

Student No. Month Year

Ollscoil na hÉireann, Corcaigh CE6043 Coastal and Harbour Engineering
National University of Ireland, Cork Beaufort Building Visit

1.5 Generally, what did you learn about coastal processes and costal
engineering from watching this video?
From this video I multiple things about coastal processes and costal
engineering from the video. Firstly, I learned how quick making the wrong
protection decision can horribly affect the area. Just by not finishing the groyne
project millions of dollars were costed and hundreds of people were irreversibly
affected. The area would have been better off if no protection measures were
ever put in place. Secondly, I learned how bureaucratic coastal protection
ends up being, with the federal, state and local governments included in
something that did not even pertain to most of them. Finally, from what I’ve
gathered from the video, the most effective form of coastal protection is not
some massive project but constant management that is directed to solving the
core problem of the erosion i.e., the continual nourishment of the beaches
every winter.

Student No. Month Year

Ollscoil na hÉireann, Corcaigh CE6043 Coastal and Harbour Engineering
National University of Ireland, Cork Beaufort Building Visit

2. LABORATORY VISIT
2.1 Wave Celerity Calculation
2.1.1 Tabulate and plot measured wave celerity and compare them to values
calculated using linear wave theory.

2.1.1.1 Measured Times

Using a measuring tape, stop watch and someone tracking the wave the time
taken for one wave to travel 4.9 meters in water with a depth of 0.77meters
was recorded as follows.

Figure 2: Measured Times

2.1.1.2 Celerity Measured

Using Distance over Time, the Measured Celerity was calculated.

Figure 3: Celerity (Measured)

2.1.1.3 Linear Wave Theory

Using the Linear Wave Theory and associated formulae, the Theoretical Celerity
was calculated

Figure 4: Linear Wave Theory Formulae

Student No. Month Year

Ollscoil na hÉireann, Corcaigh CE6043 Coastal and Harbour Engineering
National University of Ireland, Cork Beaufort Building Visit

2.1.1.4 Celerity Theoretical

Figure 5: Celerity (Theoretical)

2.1.1.5 Theoretical Celerity vs Measured Celerity

The Theoretical Celerity graphed with the Measured Celerity

Figure 6: Theoretical Celerity vs Measured Celerity

2.1.1.6 Comparison

Figure 7: Comparison

2.1.2 Comment on your results

As shown in the graph and in the comparison chart, the measured celerity
differs from the theoretical celerity by a significant margin in some places. This
could be mainly accounted for by human error. As the time taken for the wave
was measured using a stopwatch and effectively running after the wave to see
when it crosses the 4.9-meter mark. This method was ripe for human error as it
required eyeballing the mark and simultaneously stopping the stopwatch. The
effect of this human error is evident as the 0.35 Hz wave does not follow the
trend of an increasing celerity with a decreasing frequency.
Overall, it is evident that frequency and celerity are inversely related, while
period and celerity are directly related, i.e., as the frequency increases and the
period increase the celerity increases.

Student No. Month Year

Ollscoil na hÉireann, Corcaigh CE6043 Coastal and Harbour Engineering
National University of Ireland, Cork Beaufort Building Visit

2.2 Calculate moment of inertia of a floating breakwater structure based

on measurements taken during lab visit.
The moment of Inertia was calculated using the following formula:

Two measurements of the Period were taken, with an average being

calculated

The resulting Inertia was calculated

Figure 8: Inertia Calculation

The Radius of Gyration was also calculated using the following formulae:

Figure 9: Radius of Gyration Calculation

Student No. Month Year

Ollscoil na hÉireann, Corcaigh CE6043 Coastal and Harbour Engineering
National University of Ireland, Cork Beaufort Building Visit

2.3 Write a paragraph on other aspects of the lab visit.

It was very interesting to see the full capabilities of the lab. From the outside of
the Beaufort Building, it is very hard to imagine that it was such incredible wave
tanks inside. It was great to seeing the waves in the smaller wave tank when
doing the celerity experiment. Being able to see standing waves and the
actual cross section of the waves in front of you. It makes visualizing the theory
much easier now. It was also very interesting seeing the large wave tank in
action. I had heard about ‘freak’ waves before but I had never seen a very
good visual description of them before.

Overall it was a great experience to witness the facilities there is to model wave
and se conditions for marine and coastal engineering.

Student No. Month Year