Beach Erosion

by

Deborah Villarroel-Lamb
 Beach Erosion Definitions

Loosely, beach erosion usually describes the

removal of beach sediment from the sub-aerial
zones of the beach
Conversely, beach accretion usually describes the
deposition of beach sediments onto the sub-
aerial zones of the beach
Technically beach erosion/accretion may refer to
beach sediments lost or gained from the entire
littoral zone, and not only sub-aerial zones
 Beach Erosion Definitions

Beach Erosion/Accretion may be given in:

ŽLinear Terms – advance or retreat at right

angles to the coast
ŽAreal Terms – the extent of land gained or lost
from the coastal area
ŽVolumetric terms – the quantity of material
added to, or lost from, the coastal area
 Causes of Beach Erosion

The causes of beach erosion may be grouped

loosely into the following six categories:
ŽExposure of beach
ŽInterruptions in the supply of beach sediments
ŽThe topography of the nearshore zone and
neighbouring coastal areas
ŽThe effect of tides
ŽClimate of the area
ŽAnthropogenic activities
 Causes of Beach Erosion
Exposure of beach
The exposure of a beach to the action of waves and
currents may be affected by:
Ž Land subsidence
Ž Sea level changes
Ž Storm surge heights
Ž Frequency of storm activities
Ž Location with respect to dominant wave/wind climate
Ž Plan of coastline –increased wave energy at headlands
Ž Presence of barrier islands
Ž Presence of mangroves, corals, seagrass beds
 Causes of Beach Erosion
Interruptions in the supply of beach sediment
Hindrances to the supply of beach sediment to the
coastal area may result from:
ŽNaturally occurring headlands which act as
barriers to longshore drift or channel sediments
to offshore deposits
ŽReductions in river/fluvial sediment loads
ŽReductions in sediment supplied from clifftop
erosion, possibly due to cliff stabilisation
schemes or exposure of different rock material
with differing weathering rates
 Causes of Beach Erosion
Coastal Topography

The topography of the coastal zone will affect

beach erosion . Factors may include:
ŽType of coast, that is, whether low coast with
dunes or rocky coasts with cliffs
ŽExistence of headlands
ŽPresence of coastal vegetation
ŽOffshore bathymetry – deepwater canyons
which prevent beach accretion
 Causes of Beach Erosion
Tidal Effects

The tidal range and the ensuing tidal currents

affect beach erosion activities.
Large tidal ranges produce greater coastal
inundation with the associated increase in
beach erosion during high energy wave
climates
Large tidal ranges produce larger tidal currents
in the nearshore zone
Macrotidal >4m
Mesotidal
Microtidal <1m
 Causes of Beach Erosion
Climatic Effects

Factors that constitute climatic coastal factors

are:
ŽWeathering rates
ŽWind speed and direction which may increase
Aeolian transport
ŽDry conditions which may augment wind
transport
 Causes of Beach Erosion
Anthropogenic Activities

Man can increase the impact of wave erosion by:

1. Beach mining
2. Dredging – which may steepen offshore
profiles, thereby increasing wave energy in
the nearshore zone
3. The withdrawal of underground water, oil or
gas deposits, (or even coal mining) which
may cause land subsidence and coastal
inundation
 Causes of Beach Erosion
Anthropogenic Activities

4. Damming of rivers which prevent the

movement of sediment to coastal areas (beach
starvation)
5. Cliff stabilisation schemes (beach starvation)
6. Construction of jetties, groynes, breakwaters
which impede the movement of sediment
7. Construction of inadequate seawalls which
increases the energy in front of the structure
due to reflection
 Causes of Beach Erosion
Anthropogenic Activities

8. Destruction of coastal vegetation which may:

Ž Reduce the stabilisation of beach sediments
Ž Increase the energy in the nearshore zone
9. Lowering of coastal water tables which cause
desiccation of beach sediments and increase
potential for Aeolian transport. Although
beachface dewatering has been shown to
stabilize beaches in Denmark, USA, UK,
Japan, Spain, Sweden, France, Italy and
Malaysia
 Beach Erosion/Accretion Predictors

Dean (1973) Ho
No =
ωT
Kraus et al. (1991) established the following
criteria:
N o > 4.0 erosion highly probable
N o ≥ 3.2 erosion probable
N o < 3.2 accretion probable
N o < 2.4 accretion highly probable
 Beach Erosion/Accretion Predictors

Kraus (1992) Ho
So =
Lo
Kraus (1992) established the following criteria:

S o N o3 < 0.00014 erosion highly probable

S o N o3 < 0.00027 erosion probable
S o N o3 > 0.00027 accretion probable
S o N o3 > 0.00054 accretion highly probable
 Beach Erosion/Accretion Predictors

Sunamura and Horikawa (1975)

⎛ H o ⎞(tan β )0.27
⎜ ⎟
C= ⎝ Lo⎠
0.67
⎛ D50 ⎞
⎜ ⎟
⎝ Lo⎠

C <9 accretion probable

9 ≤ C ≤ 18 undetermined or mixed states
C > 18 erosion probable
 Summary of Coastal Erosion Damage
Potential
Immediate Effects
Ž Loss of beach sediments
Ž Recession of dunes or cliffs
Ž Loss of agricultural lands
Ž Breaching of barrier islands
Ž Destruction of existing coastal flora or fauna
Ž Weakening or destruction of coastal structures
Ž Disruption of communications caused by collapse of
bridge, road or telecommunication facilities
 Summary of Coastal erosion Damage
Potential
Secondary Effects
Ž Loss of revenue from tourist-related activities
Ž Reduction in the protection against future
storms
Ž Creation of unstable cliff slopes
Ž Flooding of areas behind breached defenses
Ž Saltwater intrusion
Ž Pollution caused by broken sewer lines
 Coastal Erosion Mitigation
Coastal erosion mitigation may be
classified as:
Ž Mitigation of losses
Ž Adjustments to loss
Ž Modifications of loss potential
Ž Mitigation of risk
Ž Adjustments to factors causing the hazard
Ž Modification of erosion hazard
 Coastal Erosion Mitigation
Table taken after White and Haas 1975
Adjustments to Modifications Modifications Adjustments to
loss of loss potential of erosion causes of
hazard hazard
ŽInsurance ŽCoastal zoning ŽDune ŽProhibition of
ŽBuilding codes stabilisation beach mining and
ŽPublic purchase ŽBeach dredging
of eroding lands nourishment ŽSand bypassing
ŽCoastal
Structures

ŽEmergency ŽMoving ŽEmergency ŽRemoval of

public assistance endangered filling and river dams
structures grading ŽReduction in
ŽStorm warning ŽRegulations cliff stabilisation
and forecasting against activities
systems destruction of
coastal vegetation
 Coastal Erosion Mitigation

Mitigation measures can be categorized as:

Ž Structural Control and protection
measures
Ž Land-use management practices
Ž Warning systems (Storm surge or high tide
advisories; sustained periods of onshore swell
caused by distant storms)
Ž Initiatives for Public relief and
Rehabilitation