Olive Magazine - April 2024

MAKING EVERY MEAL SPECIAL
Level up your lasagne

APRIL 2024
GBP £5.99
NEW-WAVE PESTO GREENS AND THREE-CHEESE LASAGNE
CAN $14.50 US $13.50 AUS $14.99
Asparagus Lamb cutlets with Papaya

and chive tart coriander pesto pavlova
+ EASTER ENTERTAINING WITH A SPICY TWIST + HOW TO COOK WITH WILD GARLIC
+ DISCOVER THE UK’S BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANTS + POWER UP THE PROTEIN IN YOUR DIET
New Caramelised Apple Spread
Tasty
Tastier
Tastiest
ess
Welcome
This month, in keeping with our magnificent cover star
lasagne, we’re eating green. This issue is packed with
recipe ideas for using the greens that come through in
spring, from herb-infused biryani traybakes (p14) and
all-the-greens pad thai (p26) to spinach buckwheat
pancakes (p30) and three inventive ways to use wild garlic
(p38). It’s also time to eat asparagus – while it’s in season
here, make the absolute most of it with our asparagus and COOK THE COVER
chive tart (p28), and Gurdeep’s emmer-based risotto (p68).
Find the recipe on page 12
If you haven’t tried emmer, do – it has fantastic texture. Stack up fresh lasagne sheets with layers of
Travel-wise, we’re visiting Margate (p84) and the vibrant, pesto-spiked green sauce, then top
Cotswolds (p64), eating our way around Turkey (p74) with a rich ricotta mixture and parmesan
for a crowd-pleasing, veg-packed dinner.
and Colombia (p78), and visiting outstanding Italian
restaurants, from Lancashire and Liverpool, to Hove and
Edinburgh (p58). We’ve picked our favourite dish at each
of these venues, many of which are pasta or pizza. Finally,
it’s Easter at the very start of the month, so there’s a bake
on the back page that is an excellent way to enjoy lots of
chocolate (p97). Happy Easter.
COVER PHOTOGRAPH: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: NICOLA ROBERTS
Lulu Grimes, managing editor

@Omagazine @lulugrimes
This month I’m…

eating drinking listening to
Lots of herbs Tiny martinis Lecker podcast
I always have at least three large You can find vintage/secondhand I particularly like to listen to podcasts
bunches in my fridge: often parsley, martini glasses that hold small about food when I have chores to
mint and coriander. I buy them from measures – I find this helps keep the do, and prefer those that are more
markets and local shops where martini as cold as I’d like it for the entire documentary-like in style, rather than
they’re not expensive, and use them drink, and means you can drink more looking for the most recent episode.
everywhere. My go-to weekend than one without falling over. A nick Lucy Dearlove’s Lecker podcast is
breakfast is a fried egg completely & nora glass will also do the trick. one of my favourites – it’s thoughtful,
greened up with herbs and stuffed into Try masterofmalt.com. incisive and fun. Find it wherever you
a croissant. I tell myself it’s healthy. get your podcasts from.
HOW TO General enquiries: Oweb@immediate.co.uk. For subscription

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O MAGAZINE AND GOOD FOOD
April 2024 Omagazine.com 3

APRIL
contents Scan to get more behind-the-
scenes Insta videos, including
360 tours, cocktail demos
and kitchen inspo
inspiration 66 Pro vs punter Critic KS Tong and an O

reader give their verdicts on South African café
7 What’s new for April Our pick of the best concept, Tashas.
new food, drink and homewares, plus three
restaurants on our radar. 68 Need to know Gurdeep Loyal explores the
culinary highlights of Kingsbridge in Devon,
cook 70
and shares an emmer and asparagus risotto.
The Measure Alcohol-free brunch drinks and

12 On the cover Make a next-level pesto greens the lowdown on The American Bar at Gleneagles.
and three-cheese lasagne.
73 Wine 101 Kate Hawkings shines the spotlight
14 A feast for friends Colourful, vibrant dishes on the UK’s urban winery scene.
to liven up Easter entertaining.
74 Cook like a local Explore the varied,
25 This impressive chocolate fondue fascinating flavours of Turkey.
is easy to throw together and ready in minutes.
78 10 things we love about Colombia
26 Cook with the season Make the most of Food and culture picks from Santiago Gamboa
asparagus, spinach and Jersey Royals this month. and Victor Gamboa of coffee roasters Hermanos.
37 Bake of the month Celebrate Easter with

a chocolate and olive oil cake. unwind
38 Three ways with wild garlic Use this punchy 84 Bolthole Beachfront boutique hotel No 42
seasonal ingredient in ricotta gnocchi, a simple Guesthouse in trendy Margate.
soup, and wild garlic and cheddar flatbreads.
87 Kitchen haven Chef-owner of Lilac in Lyme
22
42 Eat well every day Quick, easy and nourishing Regis, Harriet Mansell, shows us round her small
midweek meals. yet cleverly functional kitchen in Dorset.
49 Cook a classic Meltingly tender leg of lamb, 92 Wellness Easy everyday ways to pack more
cooked in the slow cooker. protein into your diet.
97 Best of Omagazine.com Use up any 94 The O podcast How to get the best out
chocolate mini eggs in these Easter blondies. of a gluten-free diet, with author Laura Strange.
discover & don’t miss

54 Signature dish Learn to make the Hereford 10 Subscribe today Get five issues for just £5.
onglet from French restaurant Camille in
London’s Borough Market. 52 Reader offer Enjoy an expertly curated tour
of Paris or Krakow.
58 Italian essentials Flagship dishes from some
of the country’s best Italian restaurants. 82 Reader offer Stay in one of Rick Stein’s luxury
shepherd’s huts near Padstow.
64 Love your local A spring lamb dish from
charismatic Cotswolds pub The Bull at Charlbury. 95 Coming next month What’s in store for May.
4 April 2024 Omagazine.com

26
recipe index
Starters, snacks, 47 Pork and lemongrass meatballs with noodles
49 Slow-cooker leg of lamb
drinks and sides 65 Tarragon and anchovy stuffed lamb shoulder with
73 Beetroot vodka martini
fennel and bone marrow crumble
16 Bombay crab crumpets with avocado chutney
and poppadom crumbs
Vegetables
75 Çılbır (Turkish-style poached eggs in garlicky yogurt)
26 All-the-greens pad thai
70 Harvey wallbanger
28 Asparagus and chive tart
76 Öcce (spring onion fritters)
32 New potatoes and green beans with rocket pesto
56 Pastis
12 Pesto greens and three-cheese lasagne
18 Roasted harissa carrots with whipped feta and
45 Ravioli in garlic and lemon sauce
crispy chickpeas
38 Ricotta gnocchi with wild garlic and walnut pesto
40 Wild garlic and cheddar flatbreads
46 Sesame cauliflower
30 Spinach buckwheat pancakes
Mains 68 Watercress and asparagus emmer risotto
Birds 20 Whole cauliflower shawarma with pistachio yogurt
93 Chicken, jalapeño and black bean stew 41 Wild garlic and crème fraîche soup
14 Hariyali chicken biryani traybake
Fish
Breakfast, brunch,
44 Honey-garlic prawn rice bowls
baking and puddings
34 Carrot and yogurt brunch cake
25 Chocolate fondue
Meat
97 Easter blondies
18 Gochujang lamb chops with noodle slaw
37 Easter chocolate and olive oil celebration cake
44 Griddled lamb cutlets with coriander pesto
76 Fıstıklı un kurabiyesi (pistachio shortbread cookies)
55 Hereford onglet, Café de Paris butter and spoonwort
22 Papaya pavlova
38
PHOTOGRAPHS: NASSIMA ROTHACKER, JASON INGRAM, MOWIE KAY
bringing you the best

Nisha Özlem Nicky
Parmar Warren Corbishley
Spice up Enjoy Özlem’s Eat well every
entertaining at stunning Turkish day with these
Easter (p14). recipes (p74). easy, nourishing
midweek meals (p42).
Easy on the eye and simple to make, thanks to shop-bought ingredients and no fiddly techniques. These recipes can
be made ahead and require only 30 minutes or fewer of prep – they’re go-to ideas for entertaining special guests.

inspiration
April All you need to know this month,
INSPIRATION from restaurants on our radar, to

must-buy food, drinks and homewares
Trendspotting
OMAKASE
Omakase, which roughly means ‘I’ll leave
it up to you’ as an instruction to the chef,
was on a roll in 2023, and in 2024 that
roll is still accelerating. You get a tasting
menu of many courses, often featuring
sushi and sashimi along with delicate
soups, hot dishes, grilled dishes and
perfect little desserts, usually in a very
intimate setting at a counter in front of
the chef. Taku in Mayfair has 16 seats,
little sibling Iné (inebytaku.com) has
eight and Notting Hill’s Juno is a teeny
six seats. Omakase is also used to
describe a curated selection, like the
omakase snacks mix of Japanese-style
crackers from Sous Chef. Something for
every budget. Find our pick of Japanese
restaurants at Omagazine.com.

OUR PLACE CAST IRON PERFECT POT
Not only is this casserole dish perfect for a 1kg loaf,
make a reservation
it also comes in a range of muted, on-trend colours,
including sage and lavender (£150, fromourplace.co.uk).
3 MUST-VISIT RESTAURANTS
Just opened
MONTROSE, EDINBURGH
Last year we named family-run,
Michelin-starred Timberyard as
one of our 20 restaurants with
bright futures. Shortly after, the
Radfords opened this spin-off
neighbourhood restaurant and
wine bar. The four-course set
menu showcases seasonal
produce, like razor clam tacos
with wild leeks, game sausage
and lentils, and buckwheat
BUDGET galettes with blood orange.

montroserestaurant.co
VS Revisiting
KOTA KAI, PORTHLEVEN
BLOWOUT The relaxed little sister to fine-

dining Asian fusion restaurant
Kota, Kota Kai has had a cosy
Buy the best, whatever your budget contemporary makeover, complete
– this month, casserole dishes with a chic wood burner. Half
Māori, half Chinese-Malay
for baking sourdough at home chef-owner Jude Kereama fuses
flavours in new dishes such
as Cornish hanger steak with
fragrant herb dressing, char
siu monkfish with greens and
clementine, ginger and white
chocolate mousse. kotakai.co.uk
Coming soon
FONDA, MAYFAIR
Chef Santiago Lastra, who set
up Michelin-starred Mexican
restaurant Kol, is opening a
new place on Heddon Street
STAUB LA COCOTTE 26CM ROUND CAST IRON later this year. The focus will
This investment piece by Staub is versatile dish that will be a contemporary take on
regional Mexican cuisine, with
PHOTOGRAPHS: JOE HOWARD, ABI RADFORD
last a lifetime if looked after correctly. The 26cm cocotte is

perfect for an oval-shaped 1kg loaf but there are 11 pot the space centred around a
sizes to choose from in a range of statement colours traditional comal clay griddle
(£319, zwilling.com). and adorned with Mexican
crafts. fondalondon.com
For more product reviews,

go to Omagazine.com

inspiration
AGUA DE MADRE REMEDIO

An intense part-fermented organic
lemon and ginger paste, this makes a
YOU BE CHEF RECIPE BOX delicious pick-me-up drink or can be
Created by Michelin-starred chef Robert Thompson, used in dressings or baking. £12.95
these boxes celebrate the produce of his Isle of Wight (two 250g jars), aguademadre.co.uk
base in easy to put together menus. All the prep has
been done, so you just need to finish and plate up.
Expect dishes like truffled chicken with spring veg
fricassee and zingy lemon tart. From £45 for three
courses, plus bread and petits fours. youbechef.com
COLLIDER UNWIND
SESSION PALE
A non-alcoholic pale infused with
adaptogens, ashwagandha and lion’s
mane for anti-anxiety and calming
effects. The flavour is light with floral
notes and a dry malty finish. £32 (12 x
330ml bottles), drinkcollider.com
FAIRBURN’S FAMOUS
BRITISH BLUE EGGS
KITCHEN
Laid by hens that are flower-fed,
rare breed and free range. The
shells are a beautiful blue and the
eggs, when cooked, have a lovely
buttery yellow yolk. £1.75 (box of
four), Asda
This month’s pick of food,
drink and homewares
HÄAGEN-DAZS HOKAN
BITES STONEWARE BOWLS
These mini, choc- Stylish stackable bowls with
covered ice cream lids that are oven-, microwave-,
bites come with a freezer- and dishwasher-safe,
saucy salted caramel so make an excellent sustainable
or chocolate core and alternative to plastic storage
are perfect for an after- boxes and bags. From £24,
dinner treat. £4 (box hokanbowls.com
of eight), Morrisons
TRACKLEMENTS
CHIMICHURRI
CHILLI RELISH
Give your Easter lamb
a bit of a kick with this
vibrant green relish. The
combination of parsley,
coriander, oregano and
LAMBTON & JACKSON MALDON bird’s-eye chilli is also
CURE SMOKED SALMON great on burgers or
This luxurious award-winning salmon is dry-salted drizzled over eggs.
then smoked over oak and beech to produce a subtle £4.10 (170g),
smokiness and a rich, buttery flavour. From £10 (200g), tracklements.co.uk
lambtonandjackson.com

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PHOTOGRAPHS: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: NICOLA ROBERTS
cook
Wow guests with our next-level basil and
spinach loaded veggie lasagne, vibrant
sharing plates with a kick of spice, and three
ways with seasonal superstar wild garlic

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
ON THE COVER
This vibrant, veg-packed lasagne makes for an
easy yet impressive-looking dish to wow a crowd
Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE
Pesto greens and three-cheese lasagne
SERVES 6-8 | PREP 25 MINS 1 Heat the olive oil in a pan and cook the leeks until
COOK 55 MINS | EASY softened, then add the garlic and cook for 2 mins. Stir in
the basil and spinach for 10 mins until wilted and any water
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for the has evaporated.
baking dish 2 Beat together the ricotta, mascarpone, stock and 50g
3 leeks, washed and chopped parmesan. Season well, then keep aside 8 tbsp for the top
(including green parts) of the lasagne. Stir the rest into the leek and spinach
3 garlic cloves, crushed mixture along with the pesto. Let the mixture cool, then tip
25g basil, chopped into a high-powered blender or food processor and blend
500g baby or young leaf spinach, until smooth.
chopped 3 To assemble, oil a deep 20cm x 30cm baking dish. Add a
2 x 250g tubs of ricotta layer of lasagne sheets, trimming to fit, then spread over a
250g tub of mascarpone fifth of the green sauce. Repeat four times with the lasagne
50ml vegetable stock or water sheets and green sauce.
50g parmesan, grated, plus 25g for 4 Add a final layer of lasagne sheets, then spread over the
the top reserved ricotta mixture (loosen with a little more stock if OXFORD
150g fresh green pesto needed). Grate over another 25g of parmesan. LANDING
20 fresh lasagne sheets 5 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Bake the lasagne CABERNET
for 40 mins until golden and bubbling. Leave to rest for SAUVIGNON
10-15 mins before cutting into squares.
SHIRAZ
This rich red
PER SERVING (8) 539 kcals | fat 36.3G has layers of
saturates 17.4G | carbs 31.9G | sugars 4.7G dark cherry,
fibre 3.7G | protein 19.4G | salt 0.9G warm spices
and subtle berry
flavours which are
MAKE OUR COVER VERSION complemented by
If you want to make a stacked, multi-layered version soft tannins and will
like the one on the cover, just use a smaller deep baking pair brilliantly with
dish or loaf tin, and thinner layers of filling. A good tip the creamy
for keeping the lasagne juicy is to dip each sheet in lasagne
boiling water before you layer up. filling.

PHOTOGRAPH: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTORS: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: NICOLA ROBERTS
cook the cover

A FEAST FOR FRIENDS
Spice up your Easter entertaining with
these vibrant, colourful recipes to share
Recipes NISHA PARMAR Photographs NASSIMA ROTHACKER
Hariyali chicken biryani traybake

SERVES 4 | PREP 25 MINS PLUS A whole roast chicken always indicates celebration: it’s a bold
MARINATING | COOK 1 HR 15 MINS statement and everyone thinks you’ve gone to so much effort.
EASY | GF This is a brilliant prep-ahead dish, with luxurious flavours and
minimal washing-up. Most are familiar with the bright-red
1 large chicken or 8 bone-in thighs tandoori or orange-tinged tikka marinades. Here I give the fiery
MARINADE hues a tranquil green makeover. This has all the Indian flavours
50g coriander of your familiar favourite, with herby harmonies that are so
50g mint leaves
delicious you might never go back to sunset tikka again.
30g tarragon leaves (optional)
30g basil leaves
8 garlic cloves, peeled
1 Spatchcock the chicken by removing the backbone using
thumb-sized piece of ginger,
kitchen scissors and flattening the bird – or ask your
peeled and roughly chopped
butcher to do it.
3 green finger chillies
2 In a food processor, blitz all the marinade ingredients
75g greek yogurt
except the onions, with a good pinch of salt, until smooth.
1 tbsp ground cumin
In a baking tray, pour the marinade over the chicken and
1 tbsp ground coriander
rub all over. Leave to marinate for at least 1 hr, or overnight
1 tsp garam masala
in the fridge, covered with foil.
1 lemon, juiced
3 Bring the chicken to room temperature if refrigerated –
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
it will take about an hour. Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/
RICE
gas 5.
300g basmati rice
4 Remove the foil, sprinkle over the sliced onions and cover
7 green cardamom pods
with foil again. Roast in the oven for 45 mins. Meanwhile,
1 cinnamon stick
wash the rice twice until the water runs clear.
few strands of saffron
1
5 Remove the baking tray from the oven, lift out the
/4 tsp ground turmeric
chicken and add the rice, cardamom, cinnamon, saffron
coriander, chopped, to garnish
and turmeric to the baking tray. Give everything a stir to
pomegranate seeds, to garnish
coat the rice, then add 150ml of water along with a good
poppadoms
pinch of salt. Put the chicken on top, then roast, covered,
greek yogurt swirled with lime
for a further 30 mins, removing the foil for the final 10 mins
pickle, to serve
to brown the skin.
6 Once the rice has absorbed the liquid and the chicken is
cooked and browned, garnish with coriander and
pomegranate seeds. Serve with poppadoms and yogurt
swirled with lime pickle. Carve at the table and let everyone
help themselves.
PER SERVING 733 kcals | fat 26.8G

saturates 7.8G | carbs 63.8G | sugars 5.5G
fibre 4.8G | protein 56.7G | salt 0.4G

cook Easter entertaining
Bombay crab crumpets with avocado
chutney and poppadom crumbs
SERVES 6 AS A STARTER This dish is inspired by a restaurant in Mumbai called Trishna,
PREP 10 MINS | COOK 15 MINS which specialises in garlic butter crab. I’ve taken the ultimate
EASY indulgence of sweet crab meat and added a British base of a
crisp, airy crumpet for an elegant snack, or even a starter,
150g unsalted butter without the messy struggle of the crab shells. For canapé-sized
1 tsp fennel seeds
crumpets, I use a cookie cutter to make smaller versions – you
4 tsp crushed garlic
2 tsp finely chopped green
should be able to get two from each crumpet. (Leftover
finger chillies crumpet overhangs can be used as croutons to scatter over
4 tsp freshly ground black pepper salads – simply stir-fry in olive oil over a high heat until crispy
300g picked white crab meat and season). Or, using a full-sized crumpet makes the perfect
40g picked brown crab meat starter, if you prefer.
2 tbsp lime juice, plus extra to serve
handful of coriander leaves, plus
extra to serve 1 Melt the butter in a wide, non-stick pan over a medium
6 crumpets heat for 2 mins, with a splash of water to ensure the butter
3 poppadoms doesn’t burn, until a frothy emulsion is created. Add the
AVOCADO CHUTNEY fennel seeds to sizzle for a few seconds, then add the
1 avocado, halved garlic, chillies and black pepper, and cook out for a few
30g coriander, leaves and stalks minutes. Add both crab meats, stir, then lower the heat,
1 garlic clove, peeled cover and simmer for 5 mins. Once the crab has absorbed
2cm piece of ginger, peeled (optional) most of the liquid, remove from the heat, season with salt
1 green finger chilli and add the lime juice and coriander leaves.
½ tsp ground cumin 2 Meanwhile, toast the crumpets – or, for extra crispness
½ lime, juiced and flavour, spread butter on each side and pan-fry until
golden brown.
3 Toast the poppadoms in a frying pan over a high heat
then, once cool, crush them with your hands into crumbs.
4 To make the avocado chutney, blitz together the
ingredients in a blender until smooth, adding a splash of
water to help it along if necessary.
5 To serve, spread avocado chutney on each crumpet and
pile the crab on top. Garnish with poppadom crumbs and
coriander, with a squeeze of lime.


SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS Gochujang lamb chops with 3 The lamb chops can now be pan-fried or
MARINATING | COOK 15 MINS PLUS roasted when your guests arrive as they are quick
RESTING | EASY noodle slaw to cook. Bring them to room temperature, if
necessary, and cook in a frying or griddle pan
8 lamb cutlet chops Minimum effort for maximum flavour, these lamb over a high heat for 3 mins on each side, basting
1 tbsp ginger and garlic paste chops might be the prettiest I’ve ever seen. A BBQ with the remaining Korean sauce as you go – this
(see introduction, right) recipe I make in the summer and also on colder will achieve a medium-rare chop. Rest the chops
3 tbsp mixed sesame seeds days, pan-fried or roasted in the oven, as here. for 5-7 mins, brush a little more sauce over them
chives, finely chopped To make your own ginger and garlic paste, blitz and generously sprinkle over the sesame seeds.
NUOC CHAM DRESSING 60g of garlic, 40g of peeled ginger, a splash of 4 Alternatively, to cook the chops in the oven,
2 limes, juiced sear in the pan for 1 min each side, then roast at
water, a drizzle of oil and a pinch of sea salt until
2 tbsp fish sauce 200C/180C fan/gas 6 for 12 mins, basting
smooth. It will keep refrigerated for up to a week
1 tsp palm sugar or caster sugar halfway through. If the chops are quite thick, they
1 lemongrass stalk, white part only, in a screw-top jar.
may need an extra 3-5 mins in the oven.
finely chopped (optional) 5 Garnish with chives or spring onions. To serve,
1-2 red bird’s-eye chillies, dress the slaw with the nuoc cham dressing and
finely chopped 1 To make the dressing, combine the lime juice,
arrange the salad on a platter, with the lamb
1 garlic clove, finely chopped fish sauce, sugar, lemongrass, chilli, garlic and
chops on top.
KOREAN SAUCE 2 tbsp of water in a screw-top jar. Firmly secure,
2 tbsp gochujang paste then shake to combine. This will keep in the
fridge for 48 hours – serve over Asian salads or PER SERVING 989 kcals | fat 51.7G
3 tbsp honey
as a dipping sauce for spring rolls. saturates 22.1G | carbs 83.7G | sugars 21.8G
2 tbsp sesame oil
2 In a bowl, coat the lamb chops in the ginger fibre 8.4G | protein 44G | salt 2.6G
2 tbsp kecap manis or soy sauce
NOODLE SLAW and garlic paste. Mix together all the ingredients
300g vermicelli rice noodles for the Korean sauce and use half to coat the
2 carrots, cut into matchsticks lamb chops. Cover and leave to marinate for at
½ cucumber, seeds removed and least 1 hr (in the fridge if longer). Meanwhile,
cut into matchsticks prepare the noodle slaw. Soak the noodles in
10 radishes, finely sliced boiling water for 5 mins, then drain and rinse. Mix
handful of fresh herbs, such as together the carrots, cucumber, radishes, herbs
coriander and mint and noodles.
SERVES 4 | PREP 25 MINS Roasted harissa carrots with 4 If making your own dukkah, toast the nuts in a
COOK 35 MINS | EASY | GF dry frying pan for 3 mins over a medium heat,
whipped feta and crispy chickpeas shaking occasionally. Add the spices, toast for
500g carrots a further 2 mins, then transfer to a pestle and
1½ tsp rose harissa I’ve only become acquainted with harissa in the mortar and bash the nuts and spices together.
1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil past five years but, given that it’s such an instant Add the sesame and sunflower seeds, and
wild rocket, to garnish flavour bomb, it’s my new best friend in a jar for season with salt and pepper. Store in a screw-
bread, to serve dinner parties. The texture in this dish comes from top jar.
CRISPY CHICKPEAS dukkah, an Egyptian nut, seed and spice blend. 5 Assemble by putting the warm carrots on top
400g tin of chickpeas, drained and of the whipped feta, scattering over the
You will find it in supermarkets but it’s also very
rinsed chickpeas, and adding a drizzle of zhoug and a
easy to make at home. The recipe below makes
½ tsp baharat or garam masala sprinkling of dukkah. Use a few sprigs of wild
squeeze of honey extra, so you can store it and use to sprinkle over rocket to garnish. It’s best eaten immediately,
drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil hummus, soups and salads. If you want to get with fresh bread.
WHIPPED FETA ahead, all the elements can be made a few hours in
200g feta advance – just reheat the carrots and chickpeas PER SERVING 649 kcals | fat 49.2G
100g thick greek yogurt saturates 13.4G | carbs 24.3G | sugars 13.3G
1 lemon, zested fibre 11.9G | protein 21.3G | salt 1.7G
CORIANDER ZHOUG 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
100g coriander Scrub the carrots (no need to peel), cut in half
1 green jalapeño lengthways and put in a baking tray. Coat all
2 garlic cloves, peeled over with the harissa and olive oil. Pat the
2 cardamom pods, seeds extracted chickpeas dry, transfer to a separate baking
5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil tray and coat with the baharat or garam masala,
½ lemon, juiced honey, olive oil and a pinch of salt. Roast both
DUKKAH (OR USE SHOP-BOUGHT) trays for 30 mins.
70g mixed nuts, such as hazelnuts, 2 Meanwhile, blitz the feta and yogurt in a food
cashews, walnuts and almonds processor for 3-5 mins or until light and airy.
1 tbsp cumin seeds Transfer to a large, flat plate and grate over some
1 tbsp fennel seeds lemon zest.
1 tbsp coriander seeds 3 Blitz together all the ingredients for the
4 tbsp sesame seeds coriander zhoug until pesto-like.
1 tsp sunflower seeds

Whole cauliflower shawarma
with pistachio yogurt
SERVES 2-3 | PREP 20 MINS Make this impressive cauliflower as a fuss-free centrepiece to
COOK 45 MINS | EASY | V wow your guests. You can buy a shop-bought shawarma
mixture for ease, or make your own from the spices listed.
1 large cauliflower Serve on top of couscous or wrap it all up in a flatbread. It also
SHAWARMA PASTE makes a lovely side dish for roast chicken or with a couple of
50ml butter, melted the layered salads for a meze experience. Prepare all the
50ml olive oil elements before roasting the cauliflower for half the given
3 garlic cloves, crushed
time, finishing the cooking once your guests arrive.
1 tsp sweet smoked paprika
1 tsp cayenne pepper or kashmiri
chilli powder
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Remove the
1 tsp ground coriander
outer leaves from the cauliflower, keeping some back.
1 tsp ground cumin
Bring a large pan of water to the boil, blanch the cauliflower
1 tsp ground turmeric
for 5 mins, then drain and leave for 5 mins to dry out and
1 tsp ground allspice
cool a little.
½ tsp ground cinnamon
2 Mix together all the shawarma paste ingredients and
½ lemon, juiced
rub all over the cauliflower. Put in a baking tray with the
PISTACHIO YOGURT
reserved leaves and roast for 40 mins.
75g coriander
3 Meanwhile, make the pistachio yogurt. Blitz together the
40g shelled pistachios
coriander (saving a few leaves to garnish), pistachios (save
2 garlic cloves, peeled
a few, chopped, to garnish), garlic, lemon juice and yogurt.
2 tbsp lemon juice
Season to taste.
250g greek yogurt
4 Mix together the salad vegetables and mint in a bowl,
sea salt, to taste
squeeze over the lemon and drizzle over some tahini.
SALAD
5 Heat the grains (if using) or soak the couscous in
¼ red cabbage, shredded
vegetable stock, or warm the pittas or flatbreads.
2 Little Gem lettuces, sliced
6 Serve the cauliflower on a platter, topped with a drizzle
2 carrots, grated
of the pistachio yogurt, the reserved coriander leaves and
1 red onion, finely sliced
chopped pistachios, and the pomegranate seeds, if using.
handful of mild Lombardi pickled
peppers from a jar
PER SERVING (3) 704 kcals | fat 52.9G
handful of mint leaves
½ lemon, for squeezing saturates 17.8G | carbs 28.8G | sugars 21.9G
tahini, to drizzle fibre 17G | protein 19.8G | salt 1.5G
mixed grains or couscous, pittas
or flatbreads, to serve
pomegranate seeds, to garnish
(optional)

Papaya pavlova
SERVES 6 | PREP 30 MINS Pavlova is always a dinner party showstopper. Once you
COOK 1 HR 15 MINS PLUS 1 HR master the base, the canvas is there to be painted with
COOLING | EASY | GF
seasonal fruit, ice cream and chocolate. This is inspired by
my breakfast memories in Thailand, where they serve papaya
MERINGUE BASE
4 egg whites with a wedge of lime – I love the fresh squeeze of citrus
1
/2 tsp lemon juice or white against the soft, perfumed, sunset flesh. I use fresh lime leaf
wine vinegar here to intensify the citrus notes but if you can’t find it then
225g caster sugar lime zest and mint will work well. This has it all: texture,
LIME-INFUSED PAPAYA sweetness, creaminess and exotic fruit to transport you to a
1 lime, juiced faraway beach hideaway. The base will keep for up to three
2 large firm papayas, peeled and days in an airtight container, and the cream can be whipped
sliced, or 1 large mango an hour in advance and stored in the fridge. You can also
3 large fresh makrut lime leaves,
use shop-bought meringues but you will miss out on the
shredded, or mint
squidginess of a fresh meringue.
WHIPPED CREAM
250ml double cream (or 350ml
without crème fraîche or yogurt)
1 Heat the oven to 140C/120C fan/gas 1 and line a baking
100ml crème fraîche or
tray with baking paper.
greek yogurt
2 Whisk the egg whites in a clean, dry bowl until frothy,
20g icing sugar
then add the lemon juice or vinegar and a pinch of salt, and
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
whisk to soft peaks. Whisk in the sugar a spoonful at a time
TO FINISH
until the mixture is thick and glossy. Ensure the sugar has
lime zest
all dissolved by feeling between your fingers – if not,
toasted coconut flakes
continue to whisk for another minute or two.
edible violas (optional)
3 Dab a little mixture on the underside of the baking paper
to stick it down on the baking tray. Spoon the meringue
mixture into the centre of the paper, using the back of the
spoon to create one 20-23cm round, with a slightly raised
ridge around the edge. Transfer to the oven, immediately
reduce the temperature to 120C/100C fan/gas 1/2 and cook
for 1 hr 15 mins, then turn off the oven and leave the
meringue inside to cool for at least an hour.
4 Meanwhile, in a bowl, squeeze the lime over the sliced
papaya or mango and add half the shredded lime leaves
or mint.
5 Whip the cream, crème fraîche or yogurt, icing sugar and
vanilla to stiff peaks.
6 To assemble, spoon the whipped cream over the cooled
meringue base, arrange the papaya or mango over the top,
grate over some lime zest and sprinkle over the remaining
lime leaves or mint. Some toasted coconut flakes and
violas will make the pavlova look pretty and extra-fancy.

saturates 18.5G | carbs 54G | sugars 52.2G
fibre 2.2G | protein 4G | salt 0.2G
Recipes extracted
from Share:
Asian-Inspired
Dinner Party
Dishes by Nisha
Parmar (£26,
Quadrille).
Photographs:
Nassima
Rothacker. Recipes
are sent by the
publisher and not
retested by us.

cook effortless
CHOCOLATE FONDUE
PHOTOGRAPH: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: NICOLA ROBERTS
An impressive, throw-together dessert which is ready in minutes

Recipe ANNA GLOVER
Quite possibly our easiest-ever dessert SERVES 4-6 | PREP 3 MINS | COOK 2 MINS | EASY
– we love a simple sweet platter that’s TIP
Any left-over chocolate fondue
brought together with a social activity, Warm 300ml of double cream over a low heat until
can be chilled, then rolled into
such as dunking and dipping. Serve steaming, adding a splash of milk if the cream is extra-
balls and tossed in cocoa powder
with flutes of fizz for a decadent end thick. Put 150g of dark chocolate chips in a heatproof
to make truffles. They will keep in
to any dinner party. bowl and pour over the warm cream. Add 2 tsp of white
the fridge for up to four days.
miso or a pinch of sea salt flakes. Let stand for a few
minutes until the chocolate has melted, then whisk until
you have a smooth dark chocolate ganache. (Reheat in
the microwave if it stiffens up too much before serving.)
Serve with strawberries (when in season), grapes, apple
slices, banana slices, mini stroopwafels, marshmallows,
wafers and pretzel sticks for dunking into the chocolate.
PER SERVING (6) 390 kcals | fat 36.3G | saturates 22G | carbs 12.3G
sugars 10G | fibre 2G | protein 2.5G | salt 0.3G

Cook with
the season
Make the best of April’s fruit and veg with these nutritious recipes
Recipes CAMILLA STEPHENS
All-the-greens pad thai 1 Mix together all the sauce ingredients in a small bowl.
2 Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Cook the noodles
These simple noodles are another delicious way to pack for 2-3 mins or until tender. Drain and cool under cold
more vegetables into your day. Whatever veg you choose, running water to prevent the noodles sticking together.
3 Pour the sesame oil into a large, deep frying pan or wok
just make sure you’ve got about 200g per person.
over a high heat. When hot, stir-fry all the vegetables (except
the bean sprouts) for 3 mins until just wilting and catching.
SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY | V Toss in the bean sprouts, cooked noodles, reserved sauce,
lime zest and juice, then remove from the heat.
200g dried pad thai noodles 4 Heat a little vegetable oil in a frying pan and fry the eggs
2 tbsp sesame oil over a high heat for 2 mins until crisp and brown around the
800g fresh green vegetables, such as pak choi, spring edges but the yolks are still runny.
onions, asparagus spears or long-stemmed broccoli 5 Divide the noodles between four shallow bowls, top each
150g bean sprouts with a crispy fried egg, some peanuts, coriander leaves and
2 unwaxed limes, zested and juiced dried chilli flakes, if you like.
SAUCE
3 tbsp fish sauce or vegan fish sauce PER SERVING 359 kcals | fat 7.1G
1 tbsp soy sauce saturates 1.1G | carbs 58.2G | sugars 17G
2 tbsp brown sugar
1 tbsp tamarind paste
100ml vegetable stock, hot
pinch of dried chilli flakes
TO SERVE
vegetable oil, for frying
4 eggs
handful of salted peanuts, roughly chopped
coriander leaves (optional)
dried chilli flakes (optional)
In season this month: asparagus • Jersey Royal potatoes • spinach • spring onions

cook seasonal

Asparagus and chive tart
A quick and easy pastry made with flour, butter and yogurt,
topped very simply. If you have any chive flowers, they can
really jazz it up, too.
SERVES 4-6 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS CHILLING

COOK 30 MINS | EASY | V
2 eggs
160g soft cheese
40g vegetarian parmesan-style cheese, finely grated
20 fine asparagus spears, trimmed, woody ends discarded
handful of chives
chive flowers, to garnish (optional)
YOGURT PASTRY
200g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
100g butter, cold, cubed
45g greek yogurt
1 Start by making the pastry. Put the flour and butter in

a large bowl, and rub together with your fingertips until the
mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the yogurt and stir
until a dough starts to form. If it’s looking a little dry, add
1-2 tbsp of cold water to help bring the pastry together into
a ball. Put it on a lightly floured surface and knead gently
for 1 min or until smooth. Wrap the dough and chill in the
fridge for 20 mins.
2 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line a baking
sheet with baking paper. Roll the pastry into a 20cm x
30cm rectangle on a lightly floured worksurface. Transfer
to the prepared baking sheet.
3 Beat one egg in a bowl. Add both cheeses, season with
salt and pepper, and beat until well mixed. Spread evenly
over the pastry, leaving a 2cm border all round the edges.
Arrange the asparagus and chives on top.
4 Beat the remaining egg in a small bowl and brush it
around the pastry border. Bake for 25-30 mins or until the
pastry is golden and the asparagus is beginning to turn
golden. Cool for 15 mins, then garnish with chive flowers,
if you like.


cook seasonal

Spinach buckwheat pancakes
Pancakes are a favourite in our home and the whole batch
seems to go very fast. On the rare occasions there are some
left over, they can be used with a bit of filling, like wraps, for
a quick lunch the following day.
MAKES 8 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY | V
100g baby spinach leaves

300ml skimmed milk or oat milk
2 eggs, beaten
150g buckwheat flour
pinch of paprika
3 tbsp coconut oil or rapeseed oil
TO SERVE (A COMBINATION OF THE FOLLOWING)
feta, crumbled, mature cheddar, grated, or a creamy
goat’s cheese
mushrooms, chopped and fried in a little butter, avocado,
sliced, or sundried tomatoes
basil leaves, torn, or dill, chopped
thick greek yogurt, hummus or fresh pesto
eggs, fried or scrambled, or tofu, scrambled
1 Blitz the spinach, milk, eggs, flour, paprika and a pinch

of salt in a blender at a high speed until it forms a smooth
batter. Rest for 10 mins.
2 Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a 24cm non-stick frying pan
over a medium heat. Using kitchen paper, wipe the oil
around the pan to evenly coat and remove any excess.
Once the pan is hot, pour in a ladleful of batter and tilt the
pan to spread it out evenly. Cook on a low-medium heat for
1-2 mins on each side or until lightly speckled brown – if
the heat is too high, the pancake will burn on the outside
but not cook through. Keep warm in a low oven until you’re
ready to serve.
3 Put the pile of pancakes in the centre of the table with a
choice of fillings.

saturates 4G | carbs 14.5G | sugars 1.9G

cook seasonal

New potatoes and green
beans with rocket pesto
This simple-to-rustle-up warm salad celebrates some great
ingredients: homemade pesto, British new potatoes and
creamy burrata.
SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 45 MINS | EASY | V
750g new potatoes (Jersey Royals work well), scrubbed,

any large ones quartered or halved
olive oil, for roasting
200g fine green beans, topped and tailed
150g burrata, torn into pieces
ROCKET PESTO
60g rocket, plus extra to serve
1 garlic clove
50g cashews
100g vegetarian parmesan-style cheese, finely grated
130ml olive oil
1 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. To make the pesto,

put the rocket, garlic, cashews and cheese in a blender or
food processor, and blitz to a paste. With the machine
running at a slow speed, drizzle in the oil, blitzing until the
mixture is smooth and creamy. Season to taste.
2 Tip the potatoes into a roasting tin, drizzle with olive oil
and roast for 20 mins. Remove from the oven and coat with
half the pesto, then roast for a further 20 mins.
3 Meanwhile, bring a pan of water to the boil and simmer the
beans for 3-4 mins or until just tender. Drain and keep warm.
4 Tip the beans over the top of the potatoes, spoon over the
remaining pesto and torn burrata. Season with black pepper
and serve warm topped with a few rocket leaves.

saturates 16.5G | carbs 33.6G | sugars 5G

cook seasonal

Carrot and yogurt brunch cake
SERVES 8-10 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 1 HR | EASY
200g plain flour

2 tsp baking powder
200g caster sugar
40g porridge oats
3 eggs
75g greek yogurt
1 tsp vanilla extract
175ml vegetable or rapeseed oil
150g carrot, grated
1 unwaxed orange, zested and juiced
FROSTING (OPTIONAL)
40g butter, at room temperature
65g full-fat soft cheese
½ tsp vanilla extract
100g icing sugar
1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Line a 900g loaf

tin with baking paper.
2 Put the flour, baking powder, sugar, oats and a pinch of
salt in a large bowl.
3 In a separate, medium-sized bowl, mix together the eggs,
yogurt, vanilla and oil. Pour into the dry ingredients and
beat until just combined. Add the carrot, orange zest and
juice, and mix well.
4 Pour the mixture into the tin and bake for 1 hr – don’t be
alarmed that the top turns chestnut brown but if you want
to prevent it turning any darker, cover it with foil for the final
20 mins in the oven. The cake is ready if the centre springs
back when lightly touched.
5 Allow the cake to cool in the tin for 30 mins before
transferring it to a wire rack to cool completely. It is
delicious just as it is, but can be served with a dollop or
two of thick greek yogurt, or topped with the frosting for
a special occasion.
6 To make the frosting, beat together the butter, cheese and
vanilla until pale and creamy. Add half the sugar and beat
until smooth, before beating in the remainder. Spoon on
top of the cake, then use a palette knife to swirl it out.

Recipes extracted
from Higgidy
Clever with Veg
by Camilla
Stephens (£26,
Mitchell Beazley).
Photographs:
Jason Ingram.
Recipes are sent by
the publisher and
not retested by us.

cook seasonal

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cook baking
BAKE OF THE MONTH

This Easter classic has a special ingredient for keeping the sponge really moist
Recipes HELENA BUSIAKIEWICZ
Easter chocolate and

olive oil celebration cake
SERVES 10-12 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS 1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Oil and line two
COOLING | COOK 30 MINS | EASY deep 20cm cake tins. In a jug, whisk together the eggs,
soured cream and coffee until combined. In a large bowl,
175ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus whisk together the flour, cocoa, bicarb, baking powder
extra for the tins and a large pinch of salt. Stir in both sugars, breaking up
2 eggs any lumps.
175ml soured cream 2 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry until smooth and
½ tsp instant coffee granules, used combined. Divide the mixture between the two tins and
to make 170ml coffee, slightly cooled bake for 25-30 mins or until risen and a skewer comes out
250g plain flour clean. Cool completely in the tins.
90g cocoa powder 3 To make the icing, scrape the butter into the bowl of
2 tsp bicarbonate of soda a stand mixer. With the whisk attachment, whip the butter
1 tsp baking powder until very pale and aerated. Scrape in the soured cream
125g caster sugar and whisk until combined. Whisk in the icing sugar a large
125g light brown soft sugar spoonful at a time, then add the hazelnut spread. Whisk
ICING until it forms peaks, then transfer to a piping bag with a
250g salted butter, softened large round nozzle.
100g soured cream, at 4 Lift one of the sponges onto a serving plate or turntable.
room temperature Pipe half of the icing onto the sponge, then gently put the
550g icing sugar, sifted other layer on top. Pipe the remaining icing on top, then
70g hazelnut chocolate spread smooth over the surface and create a swirl. Decorate with
(we used Bonne Maman) the chocolate matchsticks and mini eggs.
chocolate Matchmakers and
mini chocolate eggs, to decorate PER SERVING (12) 735 kcals | fat 39.6G | saturates 17.6G
carbs 87.3G | sugars 69.9G | fibre 2.4G | protein 6.1G | salt 1G
PHOTOGRAPH: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTORS: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: NICOLA ROBERTS

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
WILD GARLIC
This fabulous seasonal ingredient has a punchy flavour – if you
can’t find any to forage, it can be found frozen in some supermarkets
Recipes HELENA BUSIAKIEWICZ
1
Ricotta gnocchi with wild
garlic and walnut pesto
This is a simple pesto that really lets the wild garlic sing, and
these gnocchi are a speedier version of their potato cousin.
SERVES 2 | PREP 25 MINS | COOK 12 MINS | EASY | V
220g plain flour

25g pecorino (or vegetarian alternative), grated, plus extra
to serve
1 lemon, zested
250g ricotta, drained
1 egg yolk
25g unsalted butter
PESTO
75g wild garlic, washed
35g basil, torn
60g walnuts, toasted and roughly chopped
100ml good-quality extra-virgin olive oil
PHOTOGRAPHS: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: NICOLA ROBERTS
30g pecorino (or vegetarian alternative), grated
1 Put the wild garlic, basil and walnuts in a food processor,

and pulse to combine. With the food processor running, pour
in the olive oil and blend until smooth and vibrant green.
Season well, then stir in the pecorino and season well with
salt and black pepper.
2 For the gnocchi, sift the flour into a large bowl, then stir in
the pecorino, lemon zest, ricotta, egg yolk and a pinch of salt.
Bring together with your hands to make a soft dough. Knead
well until smooth.
OXFORD
3 Divide the dough into 10g balls, then indent each ball with
SAUVIGNON
the back of a fork – this helps the sauce cling to the gnocchi.
4 Simmer the gnocchi in plenty of salted water for 7-9 mins or BLANC
until floating and twice their original size. When cut open, they This fresh,
should look fluffy and a uniform colour. lively white
5 In a separate frying pan over medium heat, pour 50ml of the unfolds with
gnocchi cooking water and melt in the butter. Add half of the layers of
pesto (keep the rest for another time, it will keep frozen for vibrant
three months, or chilled for one week) and mix well. Mix the flavours,
gnocchi into the pesto. providing a tropical
6 Split between two bowls and top with more grated pecorino, fruit medley and
if you like. zesty acidity which
will complement
the herby,
garlicky
pesto.
fibre 3.6G | protein 19G | salt 0.8G

cook 3 ways with

2
Wild garlic and 75g mild cheddar, grated 3 On a floured surface, flatten out each ball
salted butter, to serve to roughly 18cm x 18cm. Sprinkle over the
cheddar flatbreads grated cheese and fold the dough back on
1 Pour the yogurt and olive oil into a high- itself. Re-roll it back to its original size.
These are simple, pillowy and perfect for powered blender, then scatter in the wild 4 Heat a frying pan over medium-high heat.
serving in a meze spread. garlic. Season well with salt and blitz until Lower a flatbread into the pan and cook
smooth and pale green. for 2-3 mins on each side or until golden
MAKES 6 | PREP 25 MINS 2 Sift the flour, baking powder and 1 tsp and puffed up. Repeat with the remaining
COOK 20 MINS | EASY | V of salt into a large bowl. Make a well in the flatbreads. Serve with a generous smear
centre and pour in the yogurt mixture. Stir of salted butter.
200g natural yogurt to combine, then work with your hands
1 tbsp olive oil to form a soft dough. Knead on a lightly PER SERVING 281 kcals | fat 8G
75g wild garlic floured worksurface for 4-5 mins or until saturates 3.8G | carbs 41.1G | sugars 3.1G
300g self-raising flour soft and smooth. Split into six balls.
½ tsp baking powder

cook 3 ways with
3
Wild garlic and crème fraîche soup
This is a simple soup that is quick to make. It pays to get
really good quality crème fraîche for this.
SERVES 4-6 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 25 MINS

EASY | V
2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, roughly chopped
1 leek, roughly chopped
1 large potato, peeled and roughly chopped
900ml vegetable stock
75g wild garlic, washed and roughly chopped
3 tbsp crème fraîche, plus extra to serve
toast, to serve
1 Heat the oil in a large pan over a medium heat.

Once shimmering, cook the onion and leek for 15 mins,
stirring often, until beginning to soften and caramelise.
2 Stir in the potato, then pour over the stock. Bring to
the boil, then reduce to a simmer. Bubble for 15-20 mins
or until the potato is soft.
3 Wilt in the wild garlic. Cook for 2 mins, then melt in
the crème fraîche and season well with salt and pepper.
Transfer to a high-powered blender and blitz until
smooth. Serve with an extra swirl of crème fraîche
and hot buttered toast, if you like.
PER SERVING (4) 192 kcals | fat 12.2G | saturates 4.9G

carbs 15.6G | sugars 5.3G | fibre 3.9G
protein 3G | salt 0.6G

Eat well every day
Easy, speedy, nourishing midweek meals
Recipes NICKY CORBISHLEY
Griddled lamb cutlets

with coriander pesto
(recipe on p44)

cook every day
Honey-garlic
prawn rice bowls
(recipe on p44)

Griddled lamb cutlets with coriander pesto Honey-garlic prawn rice bowls
This recipe was inspired by a fantastic Indian restaurant where it was Make sure you get everything ready before you start cooking the prawns, as
served as a starter. This one has all the flavour but without the heat. they’re done in five minutes. I like to keep this recipe simple – using
If you like the sound of the spicy version, though, sprinkle ½ teaspoon microwave rice for the base and a mixture of raw chopped vegetables on
of cayenne pepper onto the lamb cutlets before cooking and add one top. Drizzle the sauce from the pan over the top for the perfect dressing.
or two jalapeños to the pesto before blending.
SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 5 MINS | EASY
SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY | GF
2 x 250g packs of microwave basmati or long-grain rice
12 lamb cutlets 1 tsp oil
olive oil, for frying 1 tsp unsalted butter
½ tsp salt 300g raw king prawns, peeled and deveined
½ tsp ground black pepper ¼ tsp salt
2 tsp dried oregano ¼ tsp ground black pepper
2 tsp paprika ½ tsp paprika
1 tsp garlic powder 2 garlic cloves, minced
steamed new potatoes and peas, to serve 3 tbsp light soy sauce
CORIANDER PESTO 4 tbsp honey
50g coriander, leaves picked and longer stalks removed ½ cucumber, thinly sliced
1-2 jalapeños, sliced 1 avocado, chopped into chunks
2 garlic cloves, peeled ½ small red onion, finely diced
½ lime, zested and juiced 1 tbsp mixed black and white sesame seeds
3 tbsp pine nuts 3 tbsp chopped coriander
30g parmesan, grated
¼ tsp sea salt 1 Heat the microwave rice according to pack instructions – it can be left
¼ tsp black pepper in the pack for a few minutes while you cook the prawns.
90ml olive oil 2 Heat the oil and butter in a frying pan over a high heat until the butter
starts to bubble.
1 To make the pesto, pulse the coriander, jalapeños, garlic, lime zest 3 Season the prawns with the salt, pepper and paprika, then add to the
and juice, pine nuts, parmesan, salt and pepper in a food processor pan and fry, turning often with a spatula, for 1-2 mins or until the
for 10 seconds to break down the garlic and pine nuts. prawns start to turn pink.
2 Turn the food processor back on and pour in the oil in a steady 4 Reduce the heat to medium and add the garlic. Stir together for a
stream, which should take about 10 seconds. Check for consistency further minute, then add the soy sauce and honey. Stir together for a
– if you like pesto a little chunky it’s ready to go. If you like it smoother, further minute, then turn off the heat.
whizz for another 10-20 seconds or until the texture is to your liking. 5 Divide the rice between bowls. Arrange the honey-garlic prawns on
Taste and add more salt if needed. top, along with the cucumber, avocado and red onion. Drizzle any
3 For the lamb, heat a large griddle pan over a high heat until hot. sauce left in the pan over the prawns and rice.
Brush the lamb cutlets with oil, then sprinkle all over with the salt, 6 Sprinkle over the sesame seeds and coriander, and serve.
pepper, oregano, paprika and garlic powder.
4 Cook for 2-3 mins on each side until well browned – you may need PER SERVING 391 kcals | fat 10.8G
to work in two batches, depending on the size of the pan. If you do, saturates 2.6G | carbs 57.7G | sugars 20.3G
then keep the first batch warm by putting on a board or tray and fibre 3.3G | protein 14G | salt 2.7G
covering with a piece of foil and a tea towel.
5 Once all the lamb cutlets are cooked, put on a board and cover with
foil and a tea towel. Allow to rest for 3 mins before serving, drizzled
with the pesto. Serve with steamed new potatoes and peas.


cook every day
¼ tsp salt 3 Add the wine and let it bubble for 1 min,
¼ tsp ground black pepper, plus extra then add the stock and lemon juice. Stir and
Ravioli in garlic and lemon sauce to serve simmer for 3-4 mins, stirring occasionally.
500g fresh ravioli 4 Carefully stir in the cream and cheese, and
This is one of my favourite ways to seriously up 60ml white wine cook for a further 1-2 mins, stirring often, until
the game on ready-made ravioli. The ravioli 240ml vegetable stock the ravioli is piping hot throughout – you can
cooks in the sauce, so it makes a really quick 1 lemon, juiced check this by slicing into one of the pieces of
meal, and only uses one pan. Use your favourite 4 tbsp double cream ravioli.
ravioli for this recipe – I think it works particularly 50g finely grated vegetarian Italian-style 5 Turn off the heat and stir in the rocket – it
well with ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta, hard cheese or parmesan, plus extra to serve should wilt slightly. Divide between bowls and
porcini mushrooms or butternut squash. 65g rocket top with black pepper and a little more finely
grated cheese.
SERVES 4 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 15 MINS 1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a low
EASY | V heat. Gently fry the garlic, salt and pepper for PER SERVING 578 kcals | fat 35.9G
4-5 mins or until the garlic softens. saturates 16.9G | carbs 43.4G | sugars 5.9G
2 tbsp olive oil 2 Stir in the ravioli, then increase the heat to fibre 2.9G | protein 16.5G | salt 1.6G
3 garlic cloves, peeled and very finely sliced medium-high.
(or minced if you prefer)

Sesame cauliflower 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 2 Add the garlic, vinegar, honey, sweet chilli
2 tbsp honey sauce, ketchup, sugar and soy sauce, and
I find cauliflower makes a great vegetarian 2 tbsp sweet chilli sauce stir together. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat
alternative to chicken here due to the tender 3 tbsp tomato ketchup to medium and allow the mixture to simmer,
2 tbsp light brown soft sugar stirring often, for 5 mins.
texture when stir-fried. We’re frying the
2 tbsp dark soy sauce 3 Move the cauliflower over to one side of the
cauliflower first to give it a slight charred flavour, wok and stir in the cornflour mixture to
½ tbsp cornflour mixed with 2 tbsp
then it’s cooked for a few minutes in stock and cold water thicken the sauce. Cook for another minute,
the rest of the sauce ingredients to make it boiled or fried rice, to serve then turn off the heat.
tender, but with a bit of crunch. I like to serve it 2 tsp mixed black and white sesame seeds 4 Serve the cauliflower with rice, topped with
topped with plenty of sesame seeds and lots of 2 spring onions, sliced sesame seeds and spring onions.
fluffy boiled rice.
1 Break any large cauliflower florets into PER SERVING 236 kcals | fat 8G
SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 15 MINS bite-size pieces. Heat the oil in a wok over a saturates 1.3G | carbs 34.4G | sugars 30.2G
EASY | V medium heat. Add the cauliflower, season fibre 4G | protein 4.5G | salt 1.6G
and stir-fry for 5 mins, until starting to brown
600–650g cauliflower florets at the edges. Add the stock, increase the
2 tbsp sesame oil heat to high and continue to cook the
120ml vegetable stock cauliflower in the bubbling stock, stirring
3 garlic cloves, minced regularly, for 3 mins.
Omagazine.com
• Find more nourishing midweek meal solutions on Omagazine.com,
including comforting one-pots, vibrant curries and protein-rich breakfasts.

cook every day
Pork and lemongrass

meatballs with noodles
Lemongrass adds a delicious fragrance and subtle citrussy
flavour to these spicy meatballs. Serve with fresh egg noodles,
which can be quickly heated up in the sauce.
SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY
2 tbsp oil
500g fresh cooked egg noodles
15g finely chopped coriander leaves
1 tsp black sesame seeds, to serve
SAUCE
2 tbsp light soy sauce
1 lime, juiced
2 tbsp light brown soft sugar
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp fish sauce
3 tbsp oyster sauce
½ tsp chilli flakes
1 tsp cornflour
PORK MEATBALLS
500g minced pork
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 egg
2 tbsp panko breadcrumbs
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp minced ginger
1 lemongrass stalk, any outer leaves removed, inner stalk
very finely chopped, or 2 tsp lemongrass paste
1 red chilli, finely chopped or ½ tsp dried chilli flakes
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp white pepper
2 tbsp finely chopped coriander stalks
1 Put all the meatball ingredients into a large bowl and mix
together with your hands. Form the mixture into 20 walnut-
size meatballs.
2 Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high
heat. Brown the meatballs on all sides for 6-8 mins.
3 Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix together the soy sauce,
lime juice, sugar, garlic, fish sauce, oyster sauce, chilli
flakes, cornflour and 4 tbsp of water.
4 Pour the mixture into the pan with the meatballs. Allow to
bubble for 2 mins then make a space in the centre of the
pan and add the noodles. Toss the noodles in the sauce
and cook for 2-3 mins or until the noodles are hot. Stir
through the coriander, then turn off the heat.
5 Divide the noodles between bowls and add the meatballs,
then serve topped with a sprinkling of black sesame seeds.

Recipes extracted from Kitchen Sanctuary

Quick & Easy: Delicious 30-Minute Dinners
by Nicky Corbishley (£22, Kyle Books).
Photographs: Nicky Corbishley. Recipes are
sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Slow-cooker leg of lamb

Serve with a mint and pomegranate couscous, and roasted squash or
pumpkin, or stick with tradition and enjoy as part of a Sunday roast
Recipe CATE WALTON
SERVES 6 | PREP 30 MINS

COOK 5-8 HRS | EASY
2 tbsp vegetable oil

1½kg bone-in leg of lamb
300ml madeira wine
2 red onions, ends trimmed, quartered
1 garlic bulb, halved
2 celery sticks, roughly chopped
300ml chicken stock
small bunch of thyme
2 bay leaves
100g pitted soft prunes
2 tbsp cornflour
50g pomegranate seeds, to serve
handful of mint or parsley, chopped, to serve
PHOTOGRAPH: TOM REGESTER. SHOOT DIRECTORS: GILLIAN MCNEILL, FREDDIE STEWART. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR. FOOD STYLING: ELLIE JARVIS
1 Turn the slow cooker to high or low, depending

on how long you want the lamb to cook for.
2 Heat a large frying pan over a high heat.
Rub 1 tbsp of oil all over the lamb and season
generously with sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper. Sear the lamb in the pan until evenly
browned, then put in the slow cooker.
3 Deglaze the pan with a splash of madeira,
scraping off any caramelisation on the base of
the pan, and pour into the slow cooker.
4 Heat the remaining oil in the pan and fry the
onions, garlic and celery until golden. Add the
stock and remaining madeira to the pan, bring to
the boil, then tip into the slow cooker with the
thyme, bay and prunes. Cover and cook for
5-6 hrs on high or 7-8 hrs on low, turning the
lamb halfway through, until the meat falls off the
bone. Transfer to a serving dish and pull apart
OXFORD with two forks. Discard the bone.
LANDING 5 Drain the cooking liquid into a jug. Skim off and
MERLOT discard any fat that rises to the top. Pour 500ml
This of the cooking liquid back into the slow cooker.
medium- Mix 3 tbsp of the liquid with the cornflour, then
bodied red whisk back into the slow cooker and cook for
has vibrant 5 mins, stirring constantly, until thickened.
flavours of Alternatively, cook in a pan over a medium heat
plums and for 2-3 mins until thickened. Season to taste.
red cherry, and soft, 6 Drizzle a little of the gravy over the lamb, top
velvety tannins which with the prunes and garnish with pomegranate
will pair well with the seeds and mint or parsley. Serve with a jug of
rich savoury the remaining gravy.
depth of
the lamb.
PER SERVING 483 kcals | fat 21.5G | saturates 8G | carbs
18.4G | sugars 11.8G | fibre 3.5G | protein 38.4G | salt 0.5G

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DISCOVER
Find out what our critics
thought of new South
African café Tashas, our
hit list of the very best
Italian dishes the UK has
to offer, plus we dive into
the varied food cultures
of Turkey and Colombia
PHOTOGRAPH: OLA SMIT

DISH
RE
T U
NA
SIG H ERE FOR D
ON GLE
T, CA
FÉ DE
PAR
SBI
UTT
ER
AN
DS
PO
ON
RT
WO
This Borough Market restaurant fuses traditional

French cooking with seasonal UK produce
Recipes ELLIOT HASHTROUDI

discover signature dish
The Ducksoup team’s newest restaurant

(founders Tom Hill and Clare Lattin
pictured, right) is Camille in London’s
Borough Market. Small, perfectly formed
and with a cosy vibe, this is a venue in the
French tradition using British produce to
great effect. There’s an à la carte menu
as well as a specials board but, as the
ingredients are very seasonal, this will
change often. Expect gutsy flavours
including plenty of offal, such as boudin
noir, egg yolk and horseradish; trotter and
parsley terrine; and ox tongue with black
trompettes. There are snails in butter
served with bream, and a cassoulet with
langoustine as well as the onglet with
Café de Paris butter featured here. There’s
a selection of wines by the glass along
with bottles from small independent
wine-makers with, of course, a focus on
French offerings. camillerestaurant.co.uk
Hereford onglet, Café de Paris ¼ bunch of chives Heat a cast iron pan over a high heat. Add
¼ bunch of tarragon the onglet to the dry pan. Cook for 2 mins
butter and spoonwort ½ lemon, zested on each side to form a crust.
3 anchovies (we use Ortiz) 5 Cook for a further 6-9 mins, depending on
Butchered from the diaphragm, onglet has 100ml tomato ketchup how well done you prefer it, turning when
a unique flavour and open texture. Often 50ml dijon mustard necessary. Take off the heat, add a small
neglected or reserved for butchers themselves, 10ml worcester sauce knob of butter to the pan, leave it to melt
onglet is a cut not to be missed. A heavy sear to 1 tbsp double cream and baste the onglet. Remove the onglet
form a crust, served rare to medium-rare, and 10ml brandy from the pan and rest it, covered, on a
slicing the onglet across the grain are essentials 10ml calvados board for 8 mins.
for this Camille classic. The restaurant serves this 1 garlic clove, minced 6 Meanwhile, slowly melt the 250g of butter in
1 tbsp curry powder a pan over a low heat. Put the spoonwort in a
with dressed spoonwort, which grows on salt
½ tbsp sweet smoked paprika bowl and toss in the vinegar and olive oil.
marshes and flourishes in the winter. These
¼ tsp cayenne pepper 7 To serve, pour the Café de Paris butter onto
succulent leaves share a similar flavour to 250g butter a platter. Slice the rested onglet against the
horseradish and have peppery notes while 50g capers grain and lay on top of the butter. Bundle the
also being rich in vitamins. This unmistakably aromatic spoonwort to the side of the plate.
pleasant pungency of the cruciferous species 1 Take the onglet out of the fridge, pat dry Finish both the onglet and spoonwort with
can be foraged widely across Britain. and allow it to come to room temperature sea salt flakes.
while you make the butter.
SERVES 2 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS RESTING 2 To make the butter, chop the herbs and put PER SERVING 1,016 kcals | fat 94.1G
COOK 20 MINS | MORE EFFORT into a food processor. Blitz for 30 seconds, saturates 44G | carbs 10.2G | sugars 8.8G
then add all the wet ingredients to the fibre 3.8G | protein 28G | salt 3.6G
1 grass-fed 28-day aged onglet, trimmed processor (including the zest and garlic but
of excess fat and connective tissue not the capers).
drizzle of oil and a knob of butter, for frying 3 Add the dry ingredients and spices. Then
SIDE SALAD add the butter and season with salt, and blitz
200g spoonwort or watercress, washed again until the butter emulsifies and comes
25ml chardonnay vinegar together. Stir in the capers. The butter will
100ml extra-virgin olive oil keep chilled for seven days.
CAFÉ DE PARIS BUTTER 4 For the onglet, oil the steaks and liberally
¼ bunch of flat-leaf parsley season with sea salt and black pepper.

discover signature drink
Pastis
Pastis is not a cocktail per se but rather a classic French
aperitif. It’s an aromatic spirit that you simply add water to.
SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY
45ml pastis
1 Pour the pastis into a tall glass, add 150ml of very

cold water and stir with a spoon – it will turn cloudy
as it mixes.
signature drink
Also on
the menu
SMOKED EEL PORK CHOP,
DEVILLED EGGS RADICCHIO AND
BLOOD ORANGE
PHOTOGRAPHS: DASHTI JAHFAR
The dish that proves that a

traditionally unimprovable
You’ll find the best produce of
canapé can be elevated.
each season on your plate, like
the blood orange in this dish.

KEEP AN EYE ON
@Omagazine
ON INSTAGRAM FOR
A VIDEO TOUR OF
CAMILLE

ITALIAN
ESSENTIALS
The finest dishes from some of
the UK’s best Italian restaurants
Words TONY NAYLOR
In food, fashions come and go. The speed

of churn accelerates every year. But one
thing that remains constant is Britain’s love
of Italian food. As a cuisine it is simple and
approachable, a go-to comfort food, a
culinary ray of sunshine and, in its hyper-
specific regional diversity, a complex mystery
it would take a lifetime to fully explore.
From Neapolitan pizza to cacio e pepe,
there is a seemingly endless supply of epic
dishes awaiting discovery. To further this GO TO
delicious education, O has selected an Omagazine.com
array of outstanding Italian eateries and FOR MORE
some of the key dishes which make them
RESTAURANTS
shine. Buon appetito!
AND TRAVEL
RAVIOLI WITH WILD

GARLIC AND RICOTTA
La Locanda, Lancashire
Maurizio Bocchi and the Ribble Valley were

made for one another. The area has a local,
seasonal food culture to rival Italy’s, and many
incredible suppliers feed into the chef’s dishes
at this cosy, stylish cottage restaurant. Spring
may bring ravioli with ricotta and foraged
wild garlic. Or Sardinian baked lamb, raised in
nearby Padiham, with fava beans and creamy
potato croquette. Maurizio talks of creating
“the perfect marriage between Italian cuisine
and Lancashire ingredients. The land has a lot
to offer. It’s not just the beautiful farms but
what you can find in nature. For me, spring is
synonymous with wild garlic, fresh cheeses
and lamb”. lalocanda.co.uk

discover restaurants
LORIGHITTAS AL POLPO
Azzurra, London
With its plump, stripy banquettes, seafood

bar and striking trawler net sculpture, this
elegant restaurant evokes memories of
sunnier climes. It is your portal to southern
Italy on Chelsea’s Sloane Street. Exec chef
Andrea Mura’s menu pairs impeccable British
seafood with gourmet Italian ingredients, not
least in a dish of lorighittas, a twisted, hooped
pasta from Andrea’s native Sardinia: “One of
the few in the world that cannot be made by
machinery.” It is served with octopus cooked
in a Calabrian chilli and Datterini tomato
sauce, finished with parsley emulsion and
Sardinian olive oil. azzurrarestaurant.co.uk
FRUTTI DI MARE (SEAFOOD LINGUINE WITH LINGUINE, CLAMS AND ROASTED GARLIC
GARLIC, WHITE WINE AND TOMATO SAUCE) Vinny’s, Newcastle
Semola, Hove
Nick Grieves previously worked at the River Café and his cooking at
At Semola – a small, colourful 22-seat restaurant with a big restaurant, The Patricia, reflects that influence. Dishes are simple,
reputation – freshness is a guiding principle. Every day co-owner produce-led and elegant. Monthly pop-up, Vinny’s (held at another
Roberto Lonati makes various pastas, including specials such as of Nick’s restaurants, Ophelia) is a far brasher, gutsier affair, which
orecchiette or Ligurian trofie. For Semola’s pastasciutta dishes channels Nick’s love of New York’s so-called ‘red sauce’ Italian
(pastas with sauce), chef Luca Cuminetti dresses those pastas restaurants. Expect meatballs, a riff on caesar salad with a vitello
with sauces that are almost all cooked to order. Only two sauces, tonnato-style tuna dressing and XL sides of veal parmigiana or
including Luca’s bolognese, demand a different approach of patient chicken saltimbocca. Pasta dishes include linguine with clams
slow-cooking over several hours. As well as asciutta and baked and roasted garlic (“one that screams NYC”, says Nick), and a
pasta dishes, such as a regularly changing vegetarian lasagne carbonara-adjacent plate of silky, handmade fettuccine with
(say, chestnut, mushroom and mozzarella), Semola also serves pancetta, pecorino and egg yolk. As a final flourish, a little
pizza, risottos and Italian mains, similarly full of vivid flavours. caramelised buttermilk whey and butter is mixed through the
Instagram @semolarestaurant fettuccine to create in the sauce a “perfect balance – cheesy,
rich and acidic”. Instagram @vinnysncl

SALSICCIA E FRIARIELLI PIZZA
Napoli Centro, Sheffield
In this 16-seater, Riccardo Castagno is keen

to create the vibe of those small, buzzy
neighbourhood pizzerias that proliferate in
Naples. Students and academics from the
nearby university, like Sheffield foodies, love
Riccardo’s light and elastic, 48-hour-proved
pizza bases, quickly cooked at 450C and
topped with sweet, crushed San Marzano
tomatoes, Amalfi anchovies or imported
cured meats. Toppings range from seasonal
specials such as Zucca: fior di latte mozzarella,
’nduja and gorgonzola dolce on a butternut
squash base; to its knock-out Salsiccia pizza,
with fennel sausage, chilli, smoked provola
cheese and friarielli, the leafy, broccoli-related
green. napolicentro.co.uk
PAPPARDELLE RAGU
Tropea, Birmingham
Named after a coastal Calabrian town, this hip Harborne restaurant takes
inspiration from across Italy, while putting its own contemporary spin on
that source material. “In a culinary sense, each region is almost independent.
It’s fascinating,” says co-owner Ben Robinson-Young. Chef Kasia Piątkowska’s
sharing plates menu might run from bombolone doughnuts filled with
gorgonzola, pickled walnuts and red onion jam, to lightly battered, fried
courgette flowers stuffed, not with ricotta, but goat’s cheese, mint and lemon
juice, then dressed with local honey. Pappardelle is a permanent fixture, the ragu
for these thick ribbons of egg pasta changing with the seasons. “My favourite is a
rabbit ragu braised with spring vegetables and white wine,” says Kasia. tropea.uk
CACIO E PEPE
Spaghetti Junction, York
With pop-up Spaghetti Junction, Alessandro Venturi is

determined to give Britain a true taste of his native Rome,
in plates of gricia, amatriciana or carbonara. “Emblematic of
Roman cuisine – they exemplify the Italian philosophy of less
is more, emphasising the creation of distinctive flavours from
a few high-quality ingredients.” Cacio e pepe particularly is,
for Alessandro, “a magical dish” that “relies on creating a sauce
with just pecorino, black pepper and pasta water for a glossy
finish”. Rome-based food writer, Rachel Roddy, who has worked
and cooked with Alessandro, calls him: “One of the best Roman
cooks I know, traditional and innovative, skilled, always
learning.” Instagram @alessandromastrobaker

WILD MUSHROOM
TAGLIATELLE
Buyers Club, Liverpool
This cool courtyard canteen is a fantastic

place to nurse a negroni in the sun or, on
colder days, hunker down with one of chef
Kyle Jones’s fresh pasta dishes, such as ’nduja
pappardelle or wild mushroom tagliatelle.
Flavours sing with a rare clarity at Buyers Club,
not just in its pastas. Its cacio e pepe butter
beans are legendary and its tiramisu – the
recipe brought to the restaurant by Sicilian
chef, Patrizia Asaro – is getting “rave reviews”
says reservations manager, Ella Stephenson.
“Patrizia prefers a more creamy, full
mascarpone base.” buyers-club.co.uk
ZEPPOLE
Tipo, Edinburgh
In Edinburgh’s Aizle and Noto, chef Stuart Ralston and front-of-house

ace Jade Johnston have created some of the city’s most exciting modern
restaurants – contemporary spaces with pin-sharp cooking. A soothing
mixture of natural materials and neutral tones, Tipo (named after the 00
pasta flour) is their Italian excursion, in sharing plates of ricotta gnudi in
shellfish bisque or pappardelle with Scottish crab, chilli and parsley.
Exceptional ingredients are paired with simplicity, restraint and, at times,
ingenious creativity. Tipo’s savoury zeppole (mini doughnuts) is, explains
chef de partie Aaron Mosedale, “a version you can’t really find anywhere
else, tossed in paprika and dusted in pecorino”. tipoedinburgh.co.uk
BACCALÀ CROSTINO LOCO CARBONARA

Bacareto, Cardiff Cotto, Bristol
Inspired by living in Venice during its art biennale, the owners of Across several much-loved Bristol restaurants, including their
Cardiff art space and skate park Spit & Sawdust launched this eponymous flagship, the Bianchi family is an energetic proponent
homage to Venetian bacari: the small, back-street bars where of modern Italian food. Cotto is steeped in tradition: old family
cicchetti snacks flow alongside gluggable wines and zingy spritz recipes, cooking research in Padova, sourcing trips to storied
cocktails. However, Bacareto is no slavish recreation of the form. Tuscan butchers. But it is colourfully innovative, too – for example,
Its menu is at least 50% vegan and includes some modish Britalian in its artichoke fritti with mint and hot honey or its Loco carbonara.
snacks, such as leek and cheddar arancini with burnt leek salt. Originally a cult hit at a previous Bianchi restaurant, Pasta Loco, this
Toppings on chef Owen Bowley’s crostini counter range from the recently revived carbonara – which takes several days to make –
classic Venetian baccalà mantecato (house-cured salt fish whipped arrives as a plate of saucy spaghetti and fennel sausage, topped
with olive oil) to new wavers such as cashew ricotta with pickled with a slab of slow-cooked, crispy pork belly and a pancetta-
carrot, or blue cheese, honey and walnut on rye. bacareto.co.uk wrapped poached egg. cottowinebarandkitchen.co.uk

AGNOLOTTI
Celentano’s, Glasgow
Dean and Anna Parker love Italy. Dean

cooked in Campania prior to opening
London’s lauded Sorella, and their
honeymoon consisted of a foodie road
trip from Italy’s meaty, buttery northern
provinces, via 2kg Fiorentina steaks in
Montepulciano, to the country’s sun-ripened,
abundant south. The couple find Italian
food’s local, seasonable, sustainable nature
and its emphasis on communal dining
inspirational. Sharing is encouraged across
Celentano’s potentially five-course menu
(antipasti, primi, secondi, etc). “We wanted
to celebrate Italian family feasts,” says Dean.
Do not miss the agnolotti pasta filled with
vegetables and ricotta, nor Dean’s next-level
cold-brew affogato with malted barley gelato,
dark chocolate mousse and chocolate rye
crumb. celentanosglasgow.com
BRAISED OXTAIL AND POLENTA

Tiella at the Compton Arms, London
Significantly influenced by northern Italian cooking, this

“rustic Italian kitchen” features, particularly in the colder
months, a number of heartier dishes that hug the soul. Think
fresh pastas with meaty ragus or sausage and cannellini stew.
Born near Bologna and raised in New Zealand, Tiella’s chef-
founder, Dara Klein, grew up around food. Her mamma is
Pugliese cookery writer, chef and restaurateur Maria Pia de
Razza. More recently, Dara honed her cooking at London’s
Trullo and Brawn. Braising meats is core to Tiella’s menu.
“I love the way it imparts so much flavour while being a very
gentle way to cook,” says Dara. Braised in a soffritto and
chicken stock with tomatoes, red wine, juniper, nutmeg and
cinnamon, Tiella’s melting oxtail arrives with a “mound of
buttery, cheesy polenta”. theseathesea.net
FENNEL SAUSAGE AND

FRIARIELLI RIGATONI
Rigatoni’s, Manchester
At three branches, Rigatoni’s offers quality bowls of rigatoni

at competitive prices (£7.50-13.50). Made daily using a bronze
die to create a sauce-adhesive surface texture, the tubular
pasta is served with, say, ’nduja meatballs in amatriciana
sauce or swaddled in friarielli purée with fennel sausage,
long-stemmed broccoli, salty pecorino and breadcrumbs.
“A classic combination,” says chef and co-founder Alex de
Martiis. Rigatoni’s snacks are good, too. Particularly its fried
mozzarella pesto sandwich and its toasted focaccia with
gorgonzola and hot honey. “Gorgonzola and spicy honey
were made for each other,” says Alex. letsrigatoni.co.uk

C O M E F R O M
THEY R OU N D ,
DEEP UN D E R G
N . . .T O T A K E OVER
THEIR PLA O R L D !
TH E W
LOVE YOUR LOCAL
THE BULL AT
CHARLBURY
Charming rooms combine with a seasonal
menu at this charismatic Cotswolds pub
This Cotswolds pub was given a revamp last summer by locals

Phil Winser and James Gummer, the duo behind The Pelican in
London. Dark panelling, lots of wood, a cosy fire for colder days
and a garden filled with open-fire cooking accoutrements for
summer nights, including a spit for the Sunday roasts. The
changing menu is overseen by George Williams and is based
on produce from the pub’s farm, local growers and British
ingredients getting more abundant or in season, including
Muntjac deer and cuttlefish, and this lamb dish. There’s also
plenty of fish, including a selection of specials like gurnard with
sorrel and, of course, a pie. The Bull has 10 rooms so you can
also stay over. thebullcharlbury.com

discover love your local
Tarragon and anchovy stuffed

lamb shoulder with fennel
and bone marrow crumble
SERVES 8 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS SOAKING
COOK 1 HR 30 MINS | MORE EFFORT
8 slices of white bread (about 250g), crusts removed

and torn into chunks
75ml red wine vinegar
small bunch of tarragon, finely chopped
½ a small bunch of parsley, finely chopped
2 tbsp capers, chopped
4 anchovies, drained and finely chopped
½ garlic clove, crushed
1 tbsp dijon mustard
1.5kg boneless lamb shoulder
1 tbsp fennel seeds
1 tbsp olive oil
CRUMBLE
750g medium potatoes, peeled and sliced
750g fennel bulbs, sliced, fronds reserved to serve
handful of thyme, leaves picked
4 bay leaves
2 large or 4 small marrow bone boats or canoes
500ml double cream
100g dried breadcrumbs
100g Old Winchester or parmesan, finely grated
1 To make the stuffing, soak the bread in the vinegar

for 30 mins until soft and spongy – you may need to
add extra water depending on the type of bread.
2 Mix the tarragon, parsley, capers, anchovies and
garlic in a bowl. Mix in the mustard and soaked bread,
and season.
3 Lay the lamb shoulder open with the inside facing
up. Sprinkle it generously with salt, pepper and the
fennel seeds. Put the stuffing evenly along the centre
of the length and roll it up tightly. Secure the roll with
butcher’s string. Leave it to rest at room temperature
while you make the crumble.
4 Put the potatoes into cold, seasoned water and bring
to the boil. Drop in the fennel and cook for 3 mins until
the vegetables are just cooked.
5 Heat the oven to 240C/220C fan/gas 9. Layer a
5cm-deep ovenproof dish with slices of fennel, potato
and the herbs. Season every few layers.
6 Scoop out the bone marrow with a spoon into a
bowl and break up into 1cm pieces. Pour the cream
into the dish and then top with breadcrumbs, the
bone marrow and cheese. Garnish with fennel fronds.
7 Put the lamb onto a baking tray, season, rub with
the olive oil and put into the hot oven. After 30 mins,
or when the lamb is browned, turn down the heat to We launched
200C/180C/gas 6 and put in the crumble. Roast for our Love
45-55 mins (for medium-rare a meat thermometer Your Local
should register 54C, for medium it should be 58C). campaign
Take out the lamb and rest under foil for 30 mins. in 2023 to
The crumble is ready when it is bubbling and the champion
top has browned. the beloved
British pub,
PER SERVING 921 kcals | fat 69.1G highlighting
saturates 35.2G | carbs 28.8G | sugars 4.1G places we love and sharing recipes
fibre 4.2G | protein 44.1G | salt 1.4G from them in the magazine and
online. Visit Omagazine.com/
love-your-local to find all of our
pub content including podcasts,
reader recs, recipes and advice on
how you can support your local.

Tashas
Critic KS Tong and O reader Ellie Halsey-Delves compare
notes on this all-day dining café with a South African slant
Kar-Shing ‘KS’ Tong works in the Ellie Halsey-Delves is a strategist from

City by day but spends his free time south-east London. Her favourite food is
exploring and eating wherever his Cantonese and she loves the pork belly
palate takes him. From street food bao buns at Mr Bao in Peckham.
to Michelin-starred restaurants,
nothing is off the table, and he shares
it all on Instagram @ks_ate_here.
Our pro says Our punter says

I’m always sceptical of an ‘international’ menu – but when it Tashas is directly opposite Battersea Power Station but
works it can be a beautiful thing, taking diners on a global you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d just stepped into one of
culinary journey. Thankfully, Tashas falls into this category. Shoreditch’s many cream-coloured spots – gold mushroom
For Tashas Battersea, the team has curated a menu lamps, Aesop hand wash and all. One chat to some
of dishes using locally sourced ingredients that take incredibly friendly and attentive waiters, however, and the
inspiration from founder Natasha Sideris’s travels, and vibe immediately shifts from minimalist small-plate east
include a number of Tashas’ best-loved dishes, including London venue to easy-going South African. The menu
the Texas Salad (corn, feta, cherry tomatoes, olives, basil feels designed with a ‘lean protein’ main and ‘healthy salad’
and rocket with a light basil pesto, lemon dressing), which I side in mind, and is fairly pricey as a result. We get the
found a bit bland, and the Dr Paw Paw, a dish that has been distinct feeling we’re dining at a beach club somewhere
on the menu for 18 years, consisting of papaya topped with with fairer weather – somewhere where £8 for olives
yogurt and chopped almonds, and drizzled with honey. might feel less upsetting.
For me, the undoubted highlight was the humble prego: The first starter to arrive was the chilli and lime butter
a simple Portuguese sandwich where grilled chicken or beef prawn skewers, and it was no doubt the winning dish of
is nestled in a light bun with Tashas’ special sauce, and the the night. A lettuce and shiso leaf salad provided satisfying
sundried tomato dip from the nibbles section was a crunch, miso coriander mayo had all the tang of a really
surprising hero. good marie rose sauce, and the prawns were deliciously
This goes down a treat with a signature negroni, part of charred, yet buttery and soft in the middle.
a seven-page drinks menu that features a variety of red, This was not matched, however, in the spiced aubergine,
rosé and white wines from South Africa. where a bitter gochujang and orange sauce overpowered
Oh, and don’t miss the tarte tatin which, served with a everything else.
thick dollop of clotted cream, is probably one of the better For mains, we went for the Portuguese prego roll, which
ones I’ve had in London. was a chicken sandwich with fries, suffering from a similar
Mediterranean starter, followed by a Portuguese main, sauce-to-meal ratio fate as the aubergine. But the cornflake
an American side and finished with a French dessert. Like pork schnitzel was a hit – a huge plate of crispy golden
I said, international. schnitzel accompanied by a creamy potato salad that was
With friendly staff and sleek, warm décor dominated by much better than a potato salad needs to be.
a paper installation from artist Elonah O’Neil suspended by I walked out of Tashas on an early Sunday evening full,
gold wire, Tashas is nothing if not inviting and the answer to happy and particularly appreciative of a really good South
those meals where every diner wants something different. African red – but at £34 for the house bottle, I left with the
distinct feeling my money would have gone further in Soho.
TOTAL BILL FOR TWO: £178.38 including service TOTAL BILL FOR TWO: £110.25 including service
PHOTOGRAPHS: OLA SMIT
ATMOSPHERE: 7 ATMOSPHERE: 6
SERVICE: 8 SERVICE: 9
FOOD: 7 FOOD: 7
TOTAL: 22/30 TOTAL: 22/30

discover restaurant review
KEEP AN EYE ON
@Omagazine
ON INSTAGRAM FOR
A VIDEO TOUR
OF TASHAS
South African café concept, Tashas – founded

by Natasha Sideris in 2005 – has landed at
Battersea Power Station as the destination
for its first European outpost, bringing its
brand of casual, elegant dining coupled with
beautiful décor to London. The 150-cover
restaurant – led by Natasha, culinary director
Jill Okkers and the head chefs, Sasha Pieterse
and Jonathan Van De Merwe – is looking
to make its mark on the capital with its
reputation for a warm and laid-back approach
to service, and boasting an international
menu of Tashas greatest hits. tashascafe.com

Watercress and asparagus emmer risotto
SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS COOLING
COOK 40 MINS | EASY | V
200g asparagus
200g watercress
1.25 litres vegetable stock, hot
250ml dry white wine
50g butter
1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing
1 large onion, finely diced
2 celery stalks, finely diced
1 large carrot, finely diced
4 fat garlic cloves, crushed
2 tsp fennel seeds, crushed
325g emmer
75g pecorino (or vegetarian alternative), grated
1 lemon, zested and juiced
1 Trim the asparagus spears, and put the woody ends in

a pan with the watercress and stock. Bring to a boil, then
simmer for 5 mins or until the stems are tender. Cool for
10 mins, then blend until smooth. Pour back into the pan
and add the wine.
2 Melt 30g of the butter in a large, deep pan along with the
oil, then add the onion, celery, carrot and garlic. Fry for
10-12 mins or until a lot of the liquid has evaporated and
the onion starts take on a little colour.
3 Next, add the fennel seeds and emmer, mix well and
cook for 3 mins until lightly toasted. With the hob over
a medium-high heat, gradually add cups of the stock,
stirring slowly the whole time – only adding more stock
when the previous cup has been absorbed. This will take
25-30 mins, at the end of which it will be creamy green
with the emmer al dente.
4 Add the pecorino and the remaining 20g of butter, and
cook for a final 5 mins to thicken. Meanwhile, brush the
asparagus stalks with a little oil and grill under a high heat
for 5 mins until charred and tender.
5 To finish, stir 1 tsp of lemon zest and 2 tbsp of juice into
the risotto, divide between plates, top with the charred
asparagus and finish with a grating of pecorino.
PER SERVING 584 kcals | fat 31.5G | saturates 14.1G

carbs 47.4G | sugars 8.8G | fibre 4.6G | protein 25.3G | salt 1.7G
TRY EMMER
THIS MONTH An ancient wholegrain which is
also known as farro medio or
middle farro – sitting in between
einkorn (small farro) and spelt
(big farro). It’s an ancestor of
modern wheat with a nutty flavour
with Gurdeep Loyal flour. It’s an ingredient loved by chefs such as Anna Jones
Our trends expert highlights an exciting and Skye Gyngell of Spring Restaurant. In this recipe, it
makes a creamy risotto with spring greens, pecorino and
foodie tourist spot closer to home and a chef white wine – and has a satisfying al dente texture. Emmer
is available from Holland & Barrett and Hodmedod’s.
bringing modern Filipino flavours to Ireland

discover trends
TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Richie Castillo of
Bahay Filipino
pop-up and author of
Masarap, Ireland
“Bahay, which means home or house
RECIPE PHOTOGRAPH: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: NICOLA ROBERTS. OTHER PHOTOGRAPHS: WESTEND61, GAVIN HELLIER/ROBERT HARDING/GETTY
in Tagalog, started in the pandemic

after I lost my job in a Michelin-
starred restaurant. I was inspired to
explore my unique Irish-Filipino
heritage and cultural identity through
the lens of food. We have been
introducing people in Ireland to
Filipino flavours, created with the very
best Irish produce. Our signature
dishes all explore the holy trinity of
Filipino flavours – salty, sour and
sweet. We put our own Bahay twist
on dishes like the battered longanisa
sausage, our banana ketchup-glazed
Gourmet destination: wings and chicken skewers, and
our festival favourite Filly Bisteak
Kingsbridge, Devon
The area surrounding Kingsbridge has become a culinary epicentre
sandwiches. We also hit the classics
such as adobo, sinigang (sour soupy
stew), as well as regional treasures
in recent years, with some of the most inventive cooking in the South like laing (pork with taro leaves). My
West. At the heart of it is Wild Artichokes (wildartichokes.co.uk) from father is from Manila and my mother
pioneering culinary duo Jane Baxter and Samantha Miller, who serve up dishes like crab doughnuts was born in Jordan, to Irish parents.
with fennel and apple salad, and Basque cheesecake with plums. Outside Devon (outside-devon.com) My grandmother in Manila is an
is a community skate park with a farm-café that specialises in world flavours with local ingredients, incredible cook. I still learn from her
like its split pea pakoras with beetroot sadu. Millbrook Inn (millbrookinnsouthpool.co.uk) is a hidden and am very proud to share some of
haven whose menu serves up meat from the family farm, like smoked pork belly with Devon cider her recipes in our book Masarap. We
sauce. For a stellar Sunday roast, head to The Journey’s End (thejourneysendinn.co.uk), which features wanted the recipes to be accessible,
inventive small plates like burrata with chestnut honey toast. fun and introduce home cooks to the
incredible food of the Philippines.”
TIP INSTA-WORTHY FRIED EGGS

A food hack for ensuring fried eggs are picture perfect with the
yolk in the centre is to shake the eggs before cracking them.
The motion of shaking moves the yolk into the middle because
of centrifugal force. When cooking, using a mixture of butter and
oil in the pan gives you the best flavour, and for crispy edges
baste from the top while they are cooking from the bottom.
Gurdeep Loyal is a food and drink trends specialist who built his career working at Harrods Food Halls, Innocent Drinks and M&S Food.
He’s also a food writer and curator of online platform Mother Tongue. Find more recipes in Gurd’s book, Mother Tongue. @gurd_loyal

THE
MEASURE
To celebrate all things brunch this month we bring
you some easy drinks ideas, sculptural glassware and
a high-end hotel bar showcasing creative cocktails
Words MIRIAM NICE
HOME BAR HACKS THIS MONTH

Alcohol-free brunch ideas WE’RE DRINKING...
Brunch gatherings can focus on Tongue in Peat
buck’s fizz, prosecco and bloody
(£5.99/500ml, masterofmalt.com)
marys, but if you’re not drinking
With seemingly endless layers of smoke,
the offering can be limited. If you want
this is a striking and rich take on a tomato
something that’s easy to put together but
juice. Suggested serve is as a bloody mary
a bit more vibrant than a glass of juice, try
with vodka and hot sauce, but if you’re not
an espresso tonic – add a shot of espresso
drinking you can serve it as is over ice and
to an ice-filled glass of tonic water. Or opt
the layers of complexity won’t leave you
for an apple spritz, a 50/50 mixture of
feeling short-changed on flavour.
apple juice and sparkling water (you
could also use white grape juice)
and twist a sliver of lemon zest over
the top to express the oils – serve in a
chilled coupe for extra elegance. If you want
something even more refreshing, coconut water is a great choice.
Use it in a smoothie with pineapple juice, lime and banana, or do a
3 Harvey wallbanger
mixture of coconut water and soda water with a generous splash
of lime juice and lots of ice. For more drinks recipe inspiration, -INGREDIENT COCKTAIL
visit Omagazine.com.
A vibrant and classic brunch-

worthy cocktail, a great
PERFECT HOST alternative to other orange
juice based cocktails like
Puck coupe (£90 for two,
PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMES MERRELL, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS
buck’s fizz and it’s easily

tomdixon.net, selfridges.com) scaled from 1-100.
Striking and sculptural, these
generously sized mouth-blown Pour 120ml of freshly
coupe glasses make a statement squeezed orange juice
in any display. Their sturdiness into a cocktail shaker with
brings extra practicality when 60ml of vodka and add a
they’re on the table and, while handful of ice cubes, shaking
smoked glass is a popular aesthetic, well until the shaker feels
keeping it to the stem allows the very cold. Strain into a tall
colour of the wine or the cocktail ice-filled glass and pour
to still shine though. over 10ml of Galliano
l’Autentico liqueur.

discover drinks
THE AMERICAN BAR,

GLENEAGLES, SCOTLAND
Where? A 45-minute drive from Glasgow or Edinburgh is the
five-star, 100-year-old hotel Gleneagles. Tucked away within
the hotel is The American Bar. It has a 1920s and 30s opulent
interior with stylish touches such as Scottish heather-dyed
cashmere wall panels.
What to order? The bar’s latest cocktail menu, The Book of

Berries, is inspired by pocket Observer Books and focusses on
the botanical berry. Wanting to create deep bonds within the
setting, the bar has creatively used ingredients from the hotel
itself. Drinks such as the Cucumber – cucumber ends from
the hotel kitchen used to create a cucumber wine which,
combined with gin and a jasmine liqueur, results in a bright,
refreshing and slightly savoury cocktail. Other intriguing serves
include the Bell Pepper made with the cores of red pepper,
a mai tai style drink using an orgeat derived from avocado
pits, and the Blueberry cocktail created with surplus blueberry
muffins baked at the hotel. The signature serve is the martini
– using one of three gins created in partnership with South
Loch Distillery in Edinburgh. gleneagles.com
Bartender’s tip
Michele Mariotti, head of bars, Gleneagles: “The easiest way
to make drinks at home for a crowd is to pre-batch things.
Even drinks that are not particularly complicated, like a
negroni, if you have to make it on the spot, it’s quite a
time-consuming procedure. If I’m expecting guests at home,
I always have a bottle of something like a negroni or rob roy
in the freezer, made with plain water for dilution.”
KEEP AN EYE ON
@Omagazine
ON INSTAGRAM FOR
A VIDEO TOUR OF THE
AMERICAN BAR

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discover wine
WINE Urban wineries

England is now firmly established as a wine country to be
reckoned with. While most of the limelight is on its sparkling
wines, its still wines are improving and the most exciting
are coming from urban wineries.
As their name suggests, urban wineries are not set in
rolling countryside surrounded by their own vineyards but
are found in quirky urban spaces and run by creative people
who lack the funds and/or the inclination to set themselves
up for large production in state-of-the-art rural estates.
London Cru was the UK’s first urban winery, established
in an old Victorian gin distillery in west London in 2013
by maverick wine merchant Cliff Roberson. He began
with Kate Hawkings

by importing grapes from France and Italy but now,
like most other English urban wineries, only uses grapes
grown in England, whose quality has improved hugely
over recent years, largely due to climate change as warmer
temperatures mean grapes are able to ripen more fully.
Some are one-man bands – former journalist Chris Wilson
makes his wonderful wines in the basement of a disused
windmill in Cambridge, while Sergio Verrillo works his
magic in an old railway arch in Battersea.
In part seven of her essential Others have grown from humble beginnings. Based in
London’s Battersea Power Station since 2017, Vagabond
guide to wine, Kate Hawkings now makes nine different wines, and has 11 wine bars
across the city, each serving around 100 wines by the glass.
shines the spotlight on the UK’s It makes sense that most urban wineries are in London as
upcoming urban wineries that it’s so close to the major growing regions in the South East.
Grapes can reach the wineries within a few of hours of
are challenging the old guard being picked, so they arrive in peak condition.
You won’t find these wines on supermarket shelves – they
are small-scale operations with limited production but their
distinctive, carefully crafted wines make for interesting
drinking and are worth splashing out on for a special treat.
BOTTLES TO BUY SPEEDY SERVE

Gutters & Stars Rage Against London Cru Pinot Noir 2022 Blackbook Pygmalion
Beetroot vodka martini
the Dying of the Light Rosé 2022 (£25, londoncru.co.uk) Chardonnay 2020 (£28.50, A riff on a dirty vodka
(£22, gutterandstars.co.uk) Very pretty, very pale and very, blackbookwinery.com) martini – this instead
This is made by bringing together very delicious, this is made with This is a memorable chardonnay uses the juice from a jar of
two partly fermented wines – one a delicate touch by Australian that deserves serious attention.
pickled beetroots, which gives
made with bacchus, the other a winemaker Alex Hurley using pinot Made from prime Essex grapes
pinot noir – then completing the fermented with native yeasts in
a lovely pink colour and a sweet,
noir précoce, an early-ripening
fermentation in barrels, strain of pinot noir used Burgundy barrels, earthy balance to the booze. It’s
where it then ages for and one well suited to then aged for 20 months, best made with a creamy vodka
five months. The result is England’s cool climate. there’s a lot going on here (I like Dima’s) and a classic dry
a stunning rosé with This special wine has – baked apples, bay vermouth such as Noilly Prat. You
herby, elderflower notes notes of fresh and leaves, hazelnuts and can make it in the traditional way
alongside bright red crunchy red berries with preserved lemons with – put 60ml of vodka in a cocktail
cherry and strawberry a whisper of wood a gentle buttery shaker with 1 tbsp each of
fruit, and a touch of smoke; serve slightly richness cut with a vermouth and beetroot
warm spice. Try it chilled with the saline tang. Perfect
juice and a few cubes of ice,
with the pork and griddled lamb cutlets with roast chicken or
lemongrass the whole cauliflower
shake well and strain into a cocktail glass – but it
with coriander pesto
meatballs with on p44. shawarma with works just as well simply pouring the ingredients
noodles on p47. pistachio yogurt into a tumbler over ice.
on p20.
Omagazine.com
• Learn more about wine at Omagazine.com, from new grapes worth trying to the best wine subscriptions.
KATE HAWKINGS IS A WRITER AND WINE CONSULTANT. HER LATEST BOOK, THE LITTLE BOOK OF APERITIFS: 50 CLASSIC COCKTAILS AND
DELIGHTFUL DRINKS, IS OUT NOW (£10, QUADRILLE). FOLLOW HER ON X @KATEHAWKINGS.

COOK LIKE A LOCAL
Turkey
From garlicky yogurt eggs to melt-in-the-
mouth shortbreads – explore the varied
flavours of this fascinating country
Words and recipes ÖZLEM WARREN

discover cook like a local
Çılbır (Turkish-style poached

eggs in garlicky yogurt)
This is one of my favourite ways to enjoy eggs. It was
part of Ottoman palace banquets and a favourite of
Mehmed the Conqueror. At home, çılbır is generally
enjoyed as a hot meze. I also like serving it as part of
a leisurely weekend breakfast, lunch or a light midweek
My homeland Türkiye is a melting pot of diverse supper – it’s a versatile dish.
flavours with thousands of years of culinary heritage. SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 5 MINS
Surrounded by the Aegean, Black Sea and the EASY | V GF
Mediterranean, it has varying climates, fertile soil and
1 large garlic clove
many ethnic communities that contributed to regional 400g strained natural yogurt
cuisines. Bountiful, seasonal produce is consumed 2 tbsp apple cider, grape or white wine vinegar
throughout the country and excess produce is pickled 2 eggs
2 tbsp olive oil
and turned into paste to be used out of season. 2 tsp pul biber or red pepper flakes
The Marmara region carries the legacy of the Ottoman 1 tsp dill or parsley, finely chopped
palace kitchens and its ethnic communities. Meze, flatbreads or crusty bread, to serve
vegetables cooked in olive oil, pickles and a variety of
1 Prepare the garlicky yogurt about 30 mins before
desserts are a legacy from the Ottoman period. You can poaching the eggs, to bring to room temperature. Finely
also find fine examples of regional flavours in Istanbul, chop the garlic and sprinkle over a pinch of salt. Using
the flat side of the knife, gently squash the garlic to turn it
as the city is made up of migrants from across the
into a fine paste. In a small bowl, beat the yogurt with the
region. Christian, Jewish, Muslim, Greek, Armenian and garlic, then spoon onto two serving plates to provide a
Kurdish residents of the city all contributed to the local nest for the poached egg.
2 Fill a small pan with hot water, add a pinch of salt and
cuisine. Mainland Anatolia cuisine is largely based on
the vinegar (this will help to seal the egg whites) and
wheat, legumes, savoury pastries and mutton. Eastern bring to the boil. Stir the water to create a whirlpool and
and southern Anatolian cuisine is rich in bulgur-based crack in the first egg.
3 As the egg spins and the white sets around the yolk,
dishes, kebabs and flavourful condiments such as
stir the water ready for the next one. Poach each egg for
pomegranate molasses and pepper paste. The Black 2-3 mins so that the yolk remains soft.
Sea region produces the nation’s tea leaves, hazelnuts, 4 While the eggs are poaching, pour the olive oil into
a small pan over a low-medium heat and stir in the
corn and collard greens, along with the much-loved
pul biber. Gently infuse for 30 seconds, then remove
anchovies. The milder climate in the Aegean and from the heat.
the Mediterranean lends itself to seasonal fruit and 5 Lift the poached eggs out of the water with a slotted
vegetables, olives, herbs and wild greens. There is spoon and put them on a couple of sturdy paper towels
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS
to absorb any excess moisture, then gently lay them on

a variety of seafood and wines from this region. the garlic yogurt. Drizzle the infused oil over the eggs
Hospitality and getting together to enjoy food is and season with salt to taste. Scatter with chopped dill
an important aspect of Turkish culture. The Turkish or parsley and serve immediately with bread, if you like.
saying ‘Başımın üstünde yerin var’, meaning ‘I place PER SERVING 517 kcals | fat 43.2G
you at the top of my head’, for me sums up Turkish saturates 19.4G | carbs 10.8G | sugars 4.5G
hospitality perfectly. We Turks put guests first and fibre 1.9G | protein 20.2G | salt 1.6G
foremost in our thoughts, and always welcome them
with generous hospitality.

discover cook like a local
Öcce (spring onion fritters) Fıstıklı un kurabiyesi

(pistachio shortbread cookies)
These delightful, herby fritters are a popular speciality,
especially in the Gaziantep, Kilis and Hatay regions. Locals These delicious, crumbly shortbread cookies are a national
make them with lots of spring onions, herbs and fresh garlic, favourite. My mother would make them for her afternoon tea
when in season. There are many variations throughout the gatherings and special occasions when I was a child, and now
country, where, for instance, grated courgettes can be added, my children adore these, too. You will find them in Turkish
as in our popular kabak mücveri. In the south, locals use a pastanes (patisseries), either plain or with nuts or dried fruits.
special öcce pan with hollows. A non-stick, wide pan will
work just as well. Serve with a garlicky yogurt dip. MAKES 25 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS CHILLING
COOK 20 MINS | EASY
SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY | V GF
90g shelled unsalted pistachios, plus extra to serve
6 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped 300g plain flour
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped 125g icing sugar, plus extra for dusting
30g mint leaves, finely chopped 250g unsalted butter, cubed
130g flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped (including stems) ½ tsp baking powder
1 tsp pul biber or red pepper flakes 1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp ground cumin
85g plain flour (use gram flour for a gluten-free option) 1 Coarsely chop or grind the pistachios with a few pulses
55g beyaz peynir or feta, crumbled (optional) in a food processor.
3 eggs, beaten 2 Sift the flour into a large bowl. Sift the sugar into a
light olive oil or groundnut oil, for shallow frying separate bowl.
3 Put the butter in a large mixing bowl. Beat using an
1 Put the spring onions, garlic, mint, parsley, pul biber and electric whisk for 2 mins until smooth and light. Stir in the
cumin in a large bowl. Use your hands to combine well. sugar and beat for another 2 mins until well combined. Add
Add the flour and cheese, if using, and stir in the eggs, the flour, baking powder, a pinch of salt and vanilla extract,
then season with salt and pepper, and mix well. and beat for another 2 mins, making sure everything is
2 Heat enough oil to cover the base of a 25cm non-stick combined well. Stir in the pistachios and beat for another
frying pan over a medium-high heat. Drop tablespoons of minute or two until it forms a crumbly dough. Using your
the batter into the hot oil, spoonful by spoonful, leaving hands, gently form into a dough ball, put in a bowl, cover
space between each one. Shallow fry for 2 mins on each and chill for 15 mins.
side until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon to 4 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Line a large
drain on paper towels. baking sheet with baking paper. Gently shape the dough
into walnut-sized balls with your hands – you should have
PER SERVING 241 kcals | fat 12.9G 25 balls. Put on the baking sheet with about 5cm between Recipes
saturates 2.3G | carbs 20G | sugars 2.2G each ball. extracted
fibre 3.9G | protein 9.1G | salt 0.2G 5 Bake on the lower shelf of the oven for 18-20 mins or
from Sebze by
until the cookies are pale golden – try not to overbake so
that they can retain their crumbly texture and light colour.
Özlem Warren
Remove from the oven and leave to cool completely. Sift (Hardie Grant).
over some icing sugar and sprinkle with a little extra ground Photographs:
pistachio to serve. Sam A Harris.
Recipes are sent
PER SERVING 160 kcals | fat 10G by the publisher
saturates 5.5G | carbs 15G | sugars 5.4G and not retested
fibre 0.9G | protein 2G | salt 0.1G by us.

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THINGS WE
LOVE ABOUT
Santiago Gamboa and Victor Gamboa, founders of
Colombia
Colombian coffee roasters Hermanos, share their
favourite food and drinks from their homeland
Colombian. The streets are turned into

1 FRUIT MARKETS
Paloquemao fruit and vegetable market in
Bogotá is an absolute must-visit for a taste
rainbows with endless dancing, music and
parades. The carnival begins on the Saturday
5 CHOCOLATE CON QUESO
If it can be smothered, covered, stuffed
or mixed in, Colombians will find a way to
of local Colombian commerce and culture. It’s before Ash Wednesday and the hot spot include cheese in your meal. From drinks to
brimming with vibrantly coloured fruit and veg of all festivities takes place in the city of fruit salad, cheese is infused in the lifeblood of
of all shapes and sizes; try everything that you Barranquilla, perched along Colombia’s Colombian food and we love it. Among all this
haven’t seen before and look out for maracuya Caribbean coast. Food is, of course, cheesy goodness, chocolate con queso (hot
(passion fruit), sapote and soursop. everywhere – try carimañolas (long pieces chocolate with cheese) is a must try. Mercado
of yuca dough stuffed with meat or cheese), de La Perseverancia in Bogotá does a really
arepas de huevo (corn dough filled with good one.
2 SPECIALTY COFFEE SHOPS AND CAFÉS
The past few years have been good for
speciality coffee shops in Bogotá, with cafés
egg), papas rellenas (fried balls of mashed
potatoes with ground beef) and empanadas.
popping up across the city. Most of these sell
coffee sourced directly from growers and
6 AJIACO
In the heart of Colombia – the capital,
Bogotá – the signature dish is ajiaco. A big,
roasted in-house, so you won’t find many
huge brands here – only local ones with a
4 COFFEE PLANTATION TOUR
If you love coffee (and even if you don’t),
this is a must. No trip to Colombia is complete
hearty dish of hot soup made from three
different kinds of potato, it is typically eaten
personal touch. We recommend giving Colo without a tour of a coffee plantation. Visit the with rice, avocado and corn. Sides of capers
Coffee and Casa Café Cultor a go. coffee regions of Salento and San Agustín for and soured cream are sometimes provided
the beautiful scenery, and don’t forget to join for you to mix in.
local coffee tours to get a detailed history of
3 CARNAVAL DE BARRANQUILLA
Carnaval de Barranquilla (Barranquilla’s
Carnival) is one of Colombia’s most important
the Colombian coffee industry. Of course,
enjoy as many delicious cups of their freshly 7 EMPANADAS
Found at almost every street corner or
folkloric celebrations and one of the biggest grown coffee as you can. And make sure to town centre, you cannot leave Colombia
carnivals in the world. A joyous four-day sneak a few coffee cherries in as you tour without trying an empanada. While recipes
celebration of everything it means to be the plantation. vary across different regions of Colombia,

discover 10 things
from far left

Colo Coffee; colourful houses
in the Getsemaní area of
Cartagena; preparing
empanadas; ajiaco, a
traditional soup of chicken,
potatoes and corn; a fruit
and veg stall in Paloquemao
Market in Bogotá
these fritters are made with corn flour and

filled with potatoes and vegetable or meat.
But the best way to enjoy them is by dunking
them in the spicy, tangy ají sauce that comes
on the side.
8 BANDEJA PAISA
Hailing from the Paisa region of Antioquia,
bandeja paisa loosely translates to ‘farmer’s
tray’ and reflects the signature generosity and
hospitality that Colombians are known for.
It typically includes rice, black beans, fried
plantains, eggs, steak and chorizo – a hearty
dish meant to be shared and enjoyed with
good company.
9 AGUAPANELA
Served hot or cold, this delicious drink
made from unrefined cane sugar (panela) is
popular across all parts of Colombia. The
drink is prepared by mixing the panela with
hot water and a squeeze of lime juice to cut
PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD SILVER PHOTO, SERGIO AMITI/MOMENT/GETTY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS
through the sweetness. While traditionally

a non-alcoholic drink, you can find variations
with a drop of anise-flavoured aguardiente,
a local distilled spirit.
10 BREAD
Great for your budget, not so great
for your waistline. Every street corner in
Colombia is occupied by open-sided bakeries
selling bread, cakes and tinto from early
morning till late at night. Local plazas are
filled with carts selling everything from pan
de yuca to buñuelos. Trust us when we say
you’re never far from a delicious pastry.
Santiago Gamboa was born in Cúcuta in the north of Colombia and Victor Gamboa in Bogotá. Santiago trained in coffee roasting and brewing
at the Laboratorio del Café in Medellin. In 2016, along with Victor and friend Adnan Millwala, they started roasting coffee, which they sold
online, and in 2018 created Hermanos, working directly with farmers and coffee producers. hermanoscoffeeroasters.com

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Dine like a local

From food tours and Whichever Princess cruise you choose, you’ll be able to sample traditional
flavours every step of the way, thanks to the talented on-board chefs who
tastings to expert-led cook up beautiful regional dishes that will connect you to the culture
cooking demonstrations, of your destinations.
But if you really want to immerse yourself in the local cuisines on your
you can experience new cruise, there’s no better way to experience them than with one of Princess’s
fantastic culinary shore excursions. Here are just a few of the most exciting
cuisines from all over the choices in Europe – including a couple of Spanish options that you can enjoy
world with Princess Cruises alongside the Good Food Show at Sea.
Château Rousseau
de Sipian, Cellars
and Wine Tasting
A stop in Le Verdon in France offers the
perfect opportunity to explore the world-
famous vineyards around Bordeaux. This
full-day trip takes you to the stunning
Château Rousseau de Sipian, where
you’ll tour the vat room and aging cellar
and sample two of the estate's premium
vintages, before heading to the elegant
dining room for a delightful four-course
lunch with wine pairings. If time allows, you
can also take a stroll around the beautifully
landscaped grounds, before enjoying the
scenic drive back to the port.
Basque Cuisine
Masterclass
You won’t want to miss this incredible
cooking workshop led by acclaimed
Spanish chef Daniel Garcia at the
Michelin-starred Restaurante Zortziko
in Bilbao. Known for his imaginative
style and modern interpretation of
Basque cuisine, Garcia will take you on
a three-hour gastronomic adventure,
where you'll learn new recipes, sample
several award-winning dishes and taste
an assortment of Basque wines. With
his guidance, you’ll soon see why the
Basque Country is one of the most
celebrated culinary regions in Europe.
80 April 2024 magazine.com

advertisement feature
Market and Culinary

Experience with
a Local Chef
Located in the Spanish city of Cartagena,
this intimate cooking experience begins at
a market in the old city centre, where you'll
taste local specialities, chat with vendors
and shop for paella ingredients from stalls For the first time ever, the Good
packed with seasonal vegetables and fresh Food Show is taking to the seas
fish. After that, you’ll head to a restaurant for a two-week culinary voyage
called La Posada Jamaica, where you'll enjoy with Princess Cruises, sailing from
a refreshing glass of sangria as you watch a Southampton to Spain and Portugal.
local chef prepare an authentic paella for This unmissable event will see Sky
your lunch. To round off the meal, you’ll Princess transformed into a food
also be able to try a café asiático – a popular lover’s paradise, with a range of
drink from Cartagena that’s made with interactive workshops, tutored
coffee, brandy and condensed milk. tastings, cocktail classes and
celebrity cooking demos with the
likes of John Torode, Lisa Faulkner,
Gennaro Contaldo and Rachel Allen.
Cooking and The ship will also visit plenty of

renowned culinary destinations
Gardening with the where you can immerse
Bonajuto Family yourself in the local cuisine,
This six-hour Sicilian excursion will take you from pintxos bars in the Spanish
from the port of Catania to the 17th-century city of Bilbao to pastéis de nata
Villa Trinità, owned by the Bonajuto family. in Lisbon, Portugal’s capital.
After a tour of the lush botanical gardens,
you’ll visit the restaurant owned by Salvatore
Bonajuto and his wife, Donna Maria, for
a cooking demonstration featuring time-
honoured Sicilian recipes. You'll then sit
down for a delicious meal in the garden,
with hearty local wine and plenty of
lively conversation – plus you’ll receive
a traditional recipe to take home with
you at the end.
Ultimate Beer Brewing

Experience with
Master Brewer
For this outing, you’ll travel to the Novakovic To find out more
Village Estate in Čilipi, just a short drive and book your cruise,
from the Croatian city of Dubrovnik.
Upon arrival, you'll be led to the tasting visit princess.com
room where a brewer will show you
how to craft the perfect beer, including
preparation, fermentation, priming, capping,
conditioning and more. While you wait
for it to ripen, you’ll have the opportunity
to sample several other beers and snack
on local fare, such as grilled beer sausage,
cheese and potato salad, before leaving
with your freshly brewed beverage in hand.
April 2024 magazine.com 81

O READER OFFER
From
£280
pp for 2-night
stay
STAY IN ONE OF RICK STEIN’S

LUXURY SHEPHERD’S HUTS
NEAR PADSTOW
Book yourself a cosy stay near the Cornish coast and enjoy a tranquil
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Available dates: As you’d expect from a Rick Stein getaway, WHAT’S INCLUDED:
29 March-3 November 2024 food will be at the heart of your stay – this ● Two-night stay in a luxury shepherd’s hut
offer includes breakfast in The Cornish Arms for two people
Surrounded by woodland and nestled on the both mornings and a complimentary bottle of ● A three-course meal for two on one night
peaceful grounds of Rick Stein’s pub near Rick Stein Château Bauduc rosé wine. at The Cornish Arms (a one-minute walk from
Padstow, The Cornish Arms, are six wooden You’ll also be treated to a three-course the huts)
shepherd’s huts, perfect for a cosy couple of dinner at The Cornish Arms, where you can ● A bottle of Rick Stein Château Bauduc rosé
nights by the sea. The huts offer a tranquil enjoy British pub classics and a cold cider on wine, waiting for you in the hut on arrival
countryside escape, especially out of season, a sunny day in their outdoor beer garden. ● A signed copy of Rick’s latest cookery
within easy reach of some of Cornwall’s best While in Cornwall, take time to appreciate book, Simple Suppers
restaurants, beaches and coastal walks. the golden beaches nearby. You’ll be just five ● Breakfast both mornings in The Cornish
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a kitchenette and a private patio, where you sunrise or to watch the surfers. Your stay also charcuterie, prawns, salad and more, to
can enjoy a pre-dinner drink or a spot of star includes a delicious Stein’s Deli beach picnic. enjoy on the beach
gazing on a warm summer’s evening.
To book call 03301 624 924 and quote ‘O magazine’ or,

for more information, visit O.tripsmiths.com/stein
TERMS AND CONDITIONS From price is per person, based on two people sharing a hut for a two-night stay, subject to availability. Valid seven days a week. Blackout dates may apply.
Single occupancy is available at a reduction of £22.50 per night. Price and itinerary correct at time of print but may be subject to change. Full payment is taken 21 days prior to arrival.
Fourteen days’ notice prior to arrival is required in the event of a date amendment or cancellation. Travel insurance is not included and should be taken out at time of booking. Images used
may not reflect your actual experience. This stay may be sold through other selected brands. Offer is operated by and subject to the booking conditions of Seafood Trading Ltd.

UNWIND
Our pick of where to spend
a long weekend chilling out in
trendy Margate, check out chef
Harriet Mansell’s small but
perfectly formed Dorset kitchen,
and simple tips for getting more
protein in your diet

KEEP AN EYE ON
@Omagazine
ON INSTAGRAM FOR
A VIDEO TOUR OF
NO 42 GUESTHOUSE
BOLTHOLE
No 42 Guesthouse, Margate
This beachfront boutique hotel, with a restaurant
celebrating Kentish produce, makes the perfect
base from which to explore trendy, arty Margate

unwind bolthole
What makes it unique the full English, alongside a decent eggs royale
Margate’s recent reinvention has seen it become and organic porridge with honey and pistachio.
a popular destination for food lovers, with the
opening of several independent restaurants such Highlights MORE PLACES TO TRY
as Angela’s, Sète and Sargasso. Now this seaside Make use of the communal pantry for early
hotel, part of the small Guesthouse group, also in morning tea, coffee and pastries, or late-night Find more travel for food lovers
Bath, York and Brighton, provides another snacks – huge jars of traditional sweet shop on Omagazine.com.
reason to visit the Kent coastal resort – its Pearly treats like lemon sherbets and chocolate bars.
Cow restaurant and rooftop terrace providing MARGATE GUIDE
magnificent views across the channel. Inspiring décor Omagazine.com/travel/uk/south-
Bedrooms are light and sunny, with neutral east-travel/places-to-eat-drink-margate
On the menu colours and fabrics, made contemporary with
SEASIDE HOTELS
Pearly Cow focusses on seafood platters, fish touches such as a record player and choice of Omagazine.com/travel/uk/
and grills. Whitstable oysters and salt cod tacos vinyl, modern prints and beach-hut-shaped tea
PHOTOGRAPHS: TOBY MITCHELL
british-seaside-holidays
make a good sharing starter, salt-aged steaks are and coffee station. Bramley toiletries and power
prepared in the open kitchen, with whipped showers are very welcome after a day on the BOUTIQUE HOTELS
bone marrow butter and beef fat chips – this is beach. In the lounge bar, Dreamland’s ferris Omagazine.com/travel/uk/
the kind of easy food, prepared simply, you want wheel is referenced in its wall decorations, with boutique-hotels-for-food-lovers
to enjoy on the coast. The reasonable wine list raffia lightshades and touches of aqua adding
includes a decent house cava. Breakfast is beach house vibes. B&B from £170 per night.
similarly classic, with local Brogdale sausages in guesthousehotels.co.uk/no-42-margate

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ON INSTAGRAM FOR
A VIDEO TOUR
KITCHEN HAVEN
playful
and perfect
Harriet Mansell, chef-owner of
Lilac in Lyme Regis, shows us
around her small but cleverly
thought-out space in Dorset

I’m the owner of Lilac Restaurant & Wine Bar in Lyme Regis, Dorset I really needed to make my open-plan living space as functional as
– I run the business and work as a chef. My passion is working with wild possible to fit in as much kitchen equipment as I could. It’s a small
ingredients, and I forage for my menus. This summer, I’ll be doing a run space, so I simply went for as much shelving as would comfortably
of wild food tasting menus in our newly renovated outside space called fit in without overwhelming the space. I took inspiration from my
The Garden Table. I also host a podcast that is centred on wild foods professional kitchens.
and the things that connect us all – it’s called If a Tree Falls. I loved cooking Christmas dinner for my mum and dad last year.
I live just outside Lyme Regis, in the countryside, along with my I made a classic beef wellington and beautiful veg sides, and we ate
dog Louis and cat Peddy Pops. My kitchen is small, functional and at the nearby table, then relaxed in front of the log burner. It was
accessible. When I moved into my rented cottage, the ground floor super-cosy but comfortable and, for me, that’s a really fond recent
space offered an open-plan dining and living area, so I created a kind memory. I also cooked a full dinner party’s worth of recipes from
of galley through shelving – something I very much needed for all of Russell Norman’s Florentine cookbook Brutto, in memory of the late
my equipment and ingredients. restaurateur. He’s someone I held much admiration for, so I went all
I do love cooking and coming up with something tasty from out recreating his stunning dishes. I can highly recommend his gnudi
whatever I have lying around. And I love entertaining – that’s what recipe, the Tuscan beef shin and peppercorn stew, and his pastry-less
made me want to be a chef. There is nothing like a well-crafted apple cake, which I chose to serve with a salted caramel ice cream.
dinner party. What makes this my perfect kitchen is that it’s mine to use, for now.
My favourite time of day is always the early morning – walking into I have the great privilege of living by myself with everything I need and
a clean kitchen in the early hours and putting that pot of coffee on. love around me. What makes me appreciate it even more is that it took
There is something so reassuring about that morning ritual, that space me a long time to find somewhere to rent, as it’s very hard to find
and the excitement of the day. I love the window of the early hours long-term rentals in my part of the world. So I really do appreciate it
and everything it offers – it’s like a comfort blanket, the place where tremendously. I get to feel playful in this kitchen, it’s everything I need.
you imagine all of the possibilities of the day or reflect on whatever I love that it’s open-plan – there’s something so sociable about that
you need to while others are still sleeping. when I have people over, and it’s home. I love that.
Baking is super-therapeutic – following a recipe, maybe swapping
a couple of ingredients out – and the transformation in the oven is
magic. There’s always something delectable on the other side.
from left
Harriet’s foraged and homemade items take centre stage in the kitchen; natural light helps
windowsill herbs thrive

unwind kitchen style
from top
The space is efficiently utilised to house all of Harriet’s equipment and ingredients; shelving
provides storage for foraged foods and other pantry items

Essential kitchen kit?
Good knives, of course, and a good sharpener. I also love my
Nutribullet, as it’s the right size for one person.
What’s always in your fridge?

Plain yogurt, butter, smoked tofu, local seasonal vegetables (usually
some kind of cabbage), kombucha and a nice cheese.
Is there a family dish you cook again and again?

A variation of a robust veg and bean stew, perhaps with some nice
crusty bread and cheese, or some pasta with herbs scattered on top.
Give us a recipe in a sentence, maybe something you eat when you

want to unwind?
I would genuinely have some incredible cheese on toast (really good
toast, like a focaccia from the restaurant) and I’d top it with a celery,
herb and radish salad. Simple but so delicious.
What healthy meal do you cook when you want to feed your body and soul?
Orzo with chickpeas and a Crown Prince squash sauce. Cook the orzo
and chickpeas, and mix together. Blitz sundried tomatoes, roast the
squash until soft and mix it into the tomatoes. Add a minced garlic
clove and salt and pepper. Serve with a herby salad dressed with
lemon juice and extra-virgin olive oil, and cover in mixed seeds.
This year’s best food discovery?

Tonburi field caviar – tiny seeds from the summer cypress plant.
And smoked soy sauce – it’s incredible.
Favourite cookbook?
Pam the Jam by Pam Corbin – a useful kitchen compendium when it
comes to preserving and for inspiration with seasonal produce.
Favourite restaurant?
Glebe House in Southleigh, Colyton, east Devon. Locally sourced
seasonal produce prepared with care and passion, run by lovely
people with an incredibly talented head chef. Always a warm welcome
and the food is superb, with views over the whole valley.
Favourite travel destination?

Italy wins every time. The variety of places in Italy and styles of food
available, all from a country where food is their culture, makes for an
incredible trip every time. They take veg seriously and I love that.
PHOTOGRAPHS: MATT AUSTIN. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL

unwind kitchen style
get the look

Inspired by Harriet’s kitchen?
Here’s how to create a similar look.
2
3
4
5
1 Art deco amethyst fabric, price dependent on stockist, iliv.co.uk

2 Wicker basket with handle, £32, etsy.com | 3 Nutribullet 900
series, £89.99, nutribullet.co.uk | 4 Nakiri white steel #2 Kurouchi
walnut handle 165mm, £97.61, musashihamono.com | 5 Clip-top
square jar 1.5 litre, £8, kilnerjar.co.uk
HOW TO PACK IN
EXTRA PROTEIN
Simple tips and tricks to increase your daily intake
WHY DO WE NEED PROTEIN? HOW MUCH PROTEIN DO I NEED?

Protein is an essential nutrient you can For most people, a daily amount of GREAT NATURAL SOURCES OF PROTEIN
find in every single cell of the human around 0.8-1g of protein per 1kg of body We can get protein from both animal and
body. It plays vital roles in growth, weight is recommended. After exercise, plant sources but these are some of the
development and repair. While many of us protein is particularly important since best ways to include it in your diet. It’s
may associate protein with boosting our muscles need it to recover and grow. best to try to spread your protein intake
energy and supporting muscle growth, A 15-25g portion of protein is throughout the day so try to include a little
the building blocks – amino acids – which recommended within 30 minutes of protein in each meal rather than in one hit.
make up protein, actually help to produce exercise, when muscles are particularly
key neurotransmitters or brain chemicals receptive to protein synthesis. EGGS
that are critical for supporting a balanced One medium egg has around 6g of protein
mood and preventing conditions such so is a great quick fix.
as depression and anxiety.
MILK
Dairy foods are packed with protein and
also contain bone-building calcium.
YOGURT
Yogurt contains a combination of casein
and whey protein.
TOFU AND TEMPEH

Both tempeh and tofu are made from soy
beans – however, tempeh is also fermented
giving it an extra depth of flavour.
FISH AND SEAFOOD

Fish and seafood are great sources of
protein, and are typically low in fat.
CHICKEN AND TURKEY

White poultry like chicken and turkey
provide a lean source of protein.
SOYA
If you eat a plant-based diet then soya
protein (like soya mince) is a good choice.
NUTS AND SEEDS

Nuts and seeds are a practical protein
choice if you’re on the move and need
a quick snack.
BEANS AND PULSES

These are great, cheap protein sources.
They’re also a plant source of iron and are
rich in fibre.
PHOTOGRAPH: LUZIA ELLERT/STOCKFOOD

unwind wellness
CHICKEN,
JALAPEÑO
AND BLACK
BEAN STEW
This Tex-Mex inspired stew has 27g of
protein per portion, plus it’s cooked in
one pot for an easy midweek dinner.
SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS

COOK 50 MINS | EASY
1 tbsp olive oil

1 small onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
½ red pepper, cut into chunks
1 tbsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp cumin seeds
6 skinless chicken thigh fillets,
cut into pieces
4 tomatoes, chopped
1 tbsp tomato purée
300ml chicken stock
400g tin of black beans, rinsed
and drained
2 tbsp pickled jalapeños, drained
and chopped
½ a small bunch of coriander,
chopped
soured cream or natural yogurt,
to serve
mature cheddar, grated, to serve
1 Heat the olive oil in a pan and cook

the onion and garlic for 5 mins until
softened. Add the pepper and cook
for 5 mins until softened. Add the chilli
powder and cumin seeds, and cook
for 1 min. Add the chicken and cook
for 5 mins until opaque.
2 Stir in the tomatoes, tomato purée
and stock, and bring to a simmer.
Cook for 10 mins then add the beans
and jalapeños, and cook for another
15-20 mins or until thickened. Stir in
the coriander and serve in bowls with
soured cream and cheddar, if you like.

Omagazine.com
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unwind podcast ON
THE
Getting the best PODCAST
out of a gluten-free diet

Author and digital creator Laura Strange shares
her expert knowledge with the O podcast
FOODS CONTAINING GLUTEN basics, such as meat, fish, potatoes, rice and with cooking gluten-free pastries or cakes and
If someone is trying to cut out gluten, they grains like quinoa, buckwheat and polenta. you only need a very small amount. Add it in to
should be avoiding anything that contains Be mindful to check the packaging for cross- transform a potentially dry and crumbly cake
wheat, barley, rye and oats (unless those oats contamination, though. into like a fluffy, bouncy, wondrous sponge.
are specifically stated as being gluten-free). Tapioca starch is a naturally gluten-free flour.
For coeliacs in particular, whose immune ‘MAGIC’ INGREDIENTS Brazilian cheese bread is traditionally made
system will attack itself if they consume even a A few key, lesser-known ingredients are with tapioca starch, which gives it its lovely
trace of gluten, they need to watch out for ‘may important when creating delicious meals while stretchiness. Codex wheat starch is wheat
contain’ warnings. Unless you can question the following a gluten-free diet. One of these is starch that has had the gluten industrially
manufacturer directly about how something is psyllium husk, a naturally derived plant husk removed from it, making it suitable for coeliacs
made, a product could be made on the same that turns into a stretchy gel when combined and it makes really fluffy gluten-free bread. For
line as something containing gluten. Common homemade gluten-free pizza dough, Laura
sources of gluten are foods like bread, biscuits, recommends Italian brand Caputo Classica.
cakes, pasta, flour and beer. There are also
some sneakier sources of gluten that people EASY GLUTEN-FREE SWAPS
might not be aware of. Soy sauce is one, but Some recipes can easily be tweaked to be
tamari is a fantastic substitute for that. You can gluten-free, such as swapping out soy sauce
even find small quantities of gluten in Smarties, for tamari, or using cornflour to thicken a sauce
for example, due to the coating, as well as rather than regular flour. With those small
some crisps, sausages and oven chips. switches, you can make a meal accessible to
everyone, rather than having to make separate
WATCH OUT FOR GLUTEN meals for each person.
CROSS-CONTAMINATION THE BREADTH OF A
If you’re catering for a coeliac, make sure
that you’re washing your hands, using clean GLUTEN-FREE DIET
chopping boards and utensils, and wiping Laura firmly believes that eating gluten-free
down the surfaces, as even one crumb could doesn’t have to be restrictive. She makes filo
be detrimental. For example, if you’re cooking and puff pastry, as well as sourdough. Patience
pasta for someone gluten-free at the same is key when it comes to gluten-free sourdough,
time as regular pasta, use a separate pan and as the starter takes longer to mature to the right
utensil for their pasta, and don’t mix them up. level of strength. However, once it’s going, in
PSYLLIUM
Gluten is a protein, not a bacteria, so heat or theory you can keep it alive in the fridge for as
antibacterial gel won’t kill it. The same can be long as you would with a regular starter. Other
with water. Gluten, in its purest form, is really recipes can be easily substituted with shop-
said for deep-frying, meaning gluten-free foods
tough and stretchy, so if you’re removing the bought versions, such as gluten-free pasta.
must be fried in separate oil.
gluten then you need something to replace this All you need are a few easy recipes in your
NATURALLY GLUTEN-FREE consistency. An ingredient like psyllium husk is
wonderful for gluten-free bread because it gives
repertoire to take the stress out of cooking
FOODS the dough pliability so you actually knead and
dinners on a daily basis.
The easiest way to cook gluten-free meals is shape it. Psyllium husk helps with digestion, For more information, Coeliac UK (coeliac.org.
to cook with ingredients that occur naturally too. Xanthan gum is another great ingredient uk) provides lots of helpful advice and resources
without gluten. There are so many foods that to have on hand and can easily be found in the for those who think they might have the
PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS
are naturally gluten-free. Even the household free-from section of the supermarket. It helps symptoms of coeliac disease.
To listen to the whole conversation with Laura, search O podcast at Spotify, Acast, Apple or wherever you get your podcasts.
LAURA STRANGE IS AN AUTHOR AND DIGITAL CREATOR WHO SHARES HER GLUTEN-FREE RECIPES AND ADVICE AT MYGFGUIDE.COM AND
ON INSTAGRAM @MYGLUTENFREEGUIDE. HER FIRST BOOK, EAT AND ENJOY GLUTEN FREE, IS OUT NOW, PUBLISHED BY HARDIE GRANT.

COMING NEXT MONTH
ON SALE
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SANDWICHES WITH BRILLIANT HOW TO GET YOUR NOW TO
THE WOW FACTOR BISCOFF BAKES 30 PLANTS A WEEK NEVER MISS
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best of O
Easter blondies
MAKES 16 | PREP 5 MINS PLUS COOLING
COOK 50 MINS | EASY
200g unsalted butter, diced, plus extra for

the tin
200g white chocolate, roughly chopped
400g light brown soft sugar
4 eggs
150g plain flour
150g mini chocolate eggs, chopped
1 Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 2 and

butter and line a 20cm square brownie tin.
Put the butter and white chocolate into a
pan, and gently melt until combined.
2 Pour the melted chocolate into a bowl and
add the sugar, then whisk together until the
sugar has dissolved. Crack in the eggs, one
at a time, whisking well in between each
addition, and add a big pinch of salt.
3 Tip in the flour and use a spatula to fold
vincent.mcgaleyi4a7g6Sx says: together until evenly combined. Add half of
“I love these.”
the chocolate eggs and fold again. Pour the
batter into the lined tin, then dot over the
remaining chopped eggs.
4 Bake for 45-50 mins or until golden on
top and set, with a tiny wobble in the centre.
Cool completely in the tin then cut into
squares to serve.
PER BLONDIE 356 kcals | fat 18G

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Read reviews and rate your favourite recipes now! MAGAZINE.COM
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treasured recipes
Easter blondies (recipe on p97)

in one place, see reviews
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Chopped mini eggs make the perfect topping for comments and ratings at
RECIPE: ANNA GLOVER
Omagazine.com
these gooey, sweet blondies – because you can
never have too much chocolate at Easter

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MAKING EVERY MEAL SPECIAL

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