Ghid Istanbul

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
ISTANBUL
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
ISTANBUL
Contents
Project Editor Nick Inman
How to Use this
Art Editor Kate Poole
Editors Claire Folkard, Jane Oliver, Christine Stroyan
Guide 6
Designers Jo Doran, Paul Jackson
Visualizer Joy Fitzsimmons
Main Contributors Rosie Ayliffe, Rose Baring,

Barnaby Rogerson, Canan Sılay
Maps Paul Bates, Anne Rayski, Glyn Rozier (Esr Cartography Ltd); Neil Cook,
Maria Donnelly, Ewan Watson (Colourmap Scanning Ltd)
Photographers Anthony Souter, Linda Whitwam, Francesca Yorke
Illustrators Richard Bonson, Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross,

Richard Draper, Paul Guest, Maltings Partnership,
Chris Orr & Associates, Paul Weston, John Woodcock
Printed and bound in China
First American Edition, 1998

16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by Dorling Kindersley Limited,

345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Madonna mosaic in the Church of
St Saviour in Chora
Reprinted with revisions 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002,
2004, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014, 2016
Copyright 1998, 2016 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Introducing
A Penguin Random House Company Istanbul
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright above,
no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced Great Days in
into a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, Istanbul 10
(electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise),
without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner Putting Istanbul on
and the above publisher of this book.
the Map 14
Published in the UK by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. The History of
ISSN 1542-1554
Istanbul 20
ISBN 978-1-4654-4063-1
Istanbul at a
Throughout this book, floors are referred to in accordance with
Glance 36
European usage; i.e., the “first floor” is the floor above ground level.
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: travelguides@dk.com.
Tile panel in the Paired Pavilions of Topkapı

Front cover main image: The Blue Mosque, Istanbul’s most famous religious building Palace’s Harem
The stunning interior of the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet Square
Istanbul Through
the Year 46
Istanbul Area
by Area
Seraglio Point 52
Sultanahmet 70
The Bazaar Quarter 86
Beyoğlu 102
Greater Istanbul 110

The great 6th-century
Byzantine church of Haghia
Sophia (see pp74–7)
Travellers’ Needs
Where to
Stay 182
Where to Eat and

Drink 190
Men smoking bubble pipes in Çorlulu Ali

Paşa Courtyard
Ferry passing the busy Karaköy waterfront
below the Galata Tower
Beyond Istanbul
Shopping in
The Bosphorus 138 Istanbul 210
Excursions from Entertainment in
Istanbul 152 Istanbul 220
Three Guided
Walks 174 Survival Guide
Simit seller
Practical Information 226
Getting to Istanbul 236
Getting Around
Istanbul 238
Street Finder 246
General Index 264
Acknowledgments 277
Phrase Book 279

Dolmabahçe Mosque with the skyline of Sultanahmet in the distance
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you to get the most from maps and illustrations throughout. Greater
your stay in Istanbul. It provides both expert Istanbul looks at sights outside the city
recommendations and detailed practical centre. The Bosphorus guides you through
advice. Introducing Istanbul locates the city a trip up the straits, and Excursions from
geographically, sets Istanbul in its historical Istanbul explores other places within easy
and cultural context and gives an overview of reach of the city. Tips for restaurants, hotels,
the main attractions. Istanbul Area by Area is entertainment and shopping are found in
the main sightseeing section, giving detailed Travellers’ Needs, while the Survival Guide
information on all the major sights plus three contains useful advice on everything from
recommended walks, with photographs, personal security to public transport.
Finding your way around Istanbul

The centre of Istanbul
has been divided into
four sightseeing areas,
each with its own chapter,
colour-coded for easy
SULTANAHMET
Istanbul’s two principal monuments face
each other across an area of gardens
known informally as Sultanahmet Square.
I S TA N B U L A R E A B Y A R E A
Blue Mosque marks the site of the

Hippodrome, a chariot-racing stadium built
by the Romans in around AD 200. On the
71
1 Area Introduction This

describes the history and
character of the area and
This part of the city gets its name from other side of the Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet
reference. All sights are Sultan Ahmet I, who built the Blue Mosque.
Opposite is Haghia Sophia, an outstanding
example of early Byzantine architecture, and
slopes down to the Sea of Marmara in a
jumble of alleyways. Here, traditional-style
Ottoman wooden houses have been built
has a map on which the
numbered and plotted still one of the world’s most remarkable
churches. A neat oblong square next to the
over the remains of the Great Palace of the
Byzantine emperors. sights have been plotted.
on an area map for each
Sights at a Glance
Mosques and Churches
1 Haghia Sophia pp74–7 1
Restaurants pp199–202
Ahırkapı Balıkçısı 18 Patara Restaurant
Other key information is
7 Blue Mosque pp80–81 2 Albura Kathisma 19 Seasons Restaurant
chapter. The major sights

r Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Mosque
t Church of SS Sergius and Bacchus
Museums
3
4
5
Aloran Café & Restaurant
Amedros
Balıkçı Sabahattin
20
21
22
Sultanahmet Fish House
Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi
The Port Shield
also given.
6 Doy Doy 23 Tria Elegance
2 Carpet Museum
7 Doyuran Lokantası 24 Vonalı Celal
6 Mosaic Museum
are covered in more detail. 8 Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts

0 Marmara University Museum
of the Republic
8
9
10
Dubb
Faros Hotel Restaurant
Fes Café
Each area has colour-

11 Fuego Restaurant
Squares and Courtyards 12 Giritli Restaurant
4 Istanbul Crafts Centre 13 Imren Lokantası
9 Hippodrome 14 Karışma Sen Meyhane
coded thumb tabs.

15 Khorasani
Historic Buildings and Monuments
16 Köfteci Ramiz
3 Basilica Cistern
17 Mozaik Restaurant See also Street Finder
5 Baths of Roxelana
The area shaded pink q Cistern of 1,001 Columns

w Tomb of Sultan Mahmut II
e Constantine’s Column PR
OF
maps 3 & 5
GÜ KA 0 metres 250
y Bucoleon Palace
is shown in greater
RK ZIM
AN
İSM 250
İYE C A D CA 0 yards
N UR UO SM AN D Aİ L
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Locator Map
SO
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detail on the Street-

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Sultanahmet
İSHAK
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following pages.
KA
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72 I S TA N B U L A R E A B Y A R E A S U LTA N A H M E T 73
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Street-by-Street: Sultanahmet Square YR
2 . Basilica Cistern
K
K
RA
YO
YI
ÖZBEKLE R S OK Ş E CA SO AM THE BAZAAR

BI
H İT ME SERAGLIO
TE
KA KA FIR
ŞA
AK
DI H MET TA V UKHAN DD QUARTER

RG ŞİF K ES ĞI IN POINT
PA
E SO
K
A A SO İ I This marble Medusa head is one of two

O
Sİ
L H
LS
DE
K
SU
Two of Istanbul’s most OvenerableN monuments, the Blue

İM
classical column bases found in the

SO
AD
AM ĞI
Dİ
K RU C
AN
KA
AN
F
S U L T Sophia,
AT N A Hface M E Teach
AM
SO
TA
500m N RV
RA
K
AL
I CA D DESĺ
Mosque NT and Haghia other DI K

across a Basilica Cistern. The cavernous cistern
SO
KASAP OSMAN İR TA
BE ŞA SO K
TO M
SOK UR
AM
ŞE SO
KIN
SOK
D NK SO
İL
dates from the reign of Justinian

HS K
KA
CA CA 1•12 PI
AKBURÇAK SOK
F AŞ
KALECİ
NA K
SOK
leafy FYsquare, informally known K as Sultan ahmet KA Square
U R
UV
PI
A K IK
SO CU A K B I YE N İ S O I IR
AR
SU
OK SO K
D E Ğ İ R M KAPI SOK
KK AH (see p22) in the 6th century.
AĞAS
YU
BE
AYA UL İ HA
(Sultanahmet Meydanı), next to theSTECHippodrome of
VS
Y
Lİ
SOK
KÜÇÜK OĞ ĞI
FENER
ÖDE
KA
I
RE
AKSAK AL SOK KE SO
Byzantium. Also in thisOYUN fasci CU Snating
OK historic quarter L U
) are a SULTANAHMET
2 Street-by-Street Map This

O
Y A stone pilaster next to
KENNEDY
few museums, including the Mosaic Museum, built over
part CofA Dthe D E S İ old Byzantine ( SGreatA H İ L Palace (see pp84–5), and the remains of an Ottoman Locator Map
water tower is all that See Street Finder maps 3 & 5
the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts. No less diver- survives of the Milion (see
gives a bird’s-eye view of the ting than the cultural sights of this pedestrianized area
The Blue Mosque in the luminescent glow ofare
thethesetting sun of the simit (bagel) hawkers
cries Forand mapcarpet
Tomb of Sultan Ahmet I
symbols see backStunning
flap 17th-century İznik tiles
p85), a triumphal gateway.
S
(see p163) adorn the inside of this

O
sellers, and the chatter of children selling postcards.

Ğ
tomb, which is part of the outer Carpet Museum

U
heart of each sightseeing complex of the Blue Mosque.

D
K
Ç
CA
YE
K
O
Ș
Sultanahmet
RE
S
M
R
tram stop E
E
DA
İY
BA
area. Interesting features are

S
R
O
E
EM
TA
F
K
A
6 . Blue Mosque Firuz Ağa C
N
AL
Towering above Mosque

CA
Dİ
labelled. There is also a list of Sultanahmet Square are the VA

N
D
six beautiful minarets of this Fountain YO

LU
world-famous mosque. It of Kaiser CA
was built in the early 17th Wilhelm II D
“star sights” that no visitor Egyptian

century for Ahmet I.
M
A YD
E
Obelisk
YA A
D
CA
should miss. 7 Museum of Turkish and 1 . Haghia Sophia

S NI
L
KA
O
Islamic Arts K The supreme church of

O SA
F SO
Yurts, used by Turkey’s nomadic S Byzantium is over 1,400 years

YA K
I BA
peoples, and rugs are included in A
N KA old but has survived in a
this impressive collection. D
E
Y remarkably good state. Inside
M it are several glorious
M
T
A
İM
Key figurative mosaics.

K
A
Suggested route O
R
S
I
ME
N
A
D
78 I S TA N B U L A R E A B Y A R E A T Column
S U L T A N A H M EBrazen 79 Y
HME T AĞA
E
M
T
A 4 Baths of Roxelana
Sinan (see p93) designed these
only about two thirds of 6 Mosaic 8 Museum of baths in the mid-16th century. In
Yeşil Ev Hotel the past, the building has housed
it is visible, the rest having Museum Turkish and (see p186) a carpet shop, but it has been
been bricked up in the 19th
CA
Mozaik Müzesi Islamic Arts restored and reopened in 2012

century. Water reached the
D
Arasta Çarşısı, Sultanahmet. Türk ve İslam as the Hürrem Sultan Hamamı.

cistern, which held about
Map 3 E5 (5 E5). Tel (0212)
TA
100 million litres (22 million Eserleri Müzesi 3 Istanbul Crafts Centre
518 12 05.v Sultanahmet.
gal), from the Belgrade Forest,
V
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm; Atmeydanı Sok, Sultanahmet. Visitors have a rare opportunity
U
20 km (12 miles) north of here to observe Turkish craftsmen

K
Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm. Map 3 D4 (5 D4). Tel (0212) 518 18 05. Serpentine

H
Istanbul, via the Valens v Sultanahmet. Open Apr–Oct: practising a range of skills.
A
Column
Aqueduct (see p91). Located near Arasta
N
9am–7pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar:

E
Bazaar, among a warren 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. ∑ tiem.gov.tr

SO
of small shops, this

4 Istanbul Crafts
K
museum was created Over 40,000 items are on display K

Centre simply by roofing over in the former palace of İbrahim SO Arasta Bazaar
N
a part of the Great Paşa (c.1493–1536), the most RU Quality carpets, ceramics and
Mehmet Efendi Medresesi TO
Palace of the Byzantine gifted8 of Hippodrome
Süleyman’s many grand 5 Mosaic Museum other handicraft items are a
Kabasakal Cad 5, Sultanahmet.
Emperors (see pp84–5), viziers.This
Paşa stadium
marriedwas theman’s
Süley city’s Hunting scenes are one major draw in this upmarket
Map 3 E4 (5 E4). Tel (0212) 517 67 82. focus for more than 1,000 years of the common subjects bazaar. With two long rows
which was discovered sister when the sultan came to
v Sultanahmet. Open 9:30am– before it fell into ruin. Only a few that can be seen in some 0 metres 75 of shops on either side of a
Red-and-white brick exterior of the Baths of Roxelana by archeologists in the the throne. The collection was
5:30pm daily. sections, such as the central line of the mosaics from the lane, the bazaar was once
1930s. In its heyday the begunofinmonuments,
the 19th century
remain.and Great Palace. 0 yards 75
a stable yard.
If you are interested in Turkish (see p28) by Sinan (see p93), palace boasted hundreds of ranges from the earliest period
The cavernous interior of the Byzantine Basilica Cistern craftwork, this for-mer Koranic and are named after Roxelana, rooms, many of them glittering of Islam, under the Omayyad
college is worth a visit. You can the sultan’s scheming wife. with gold mosaics. caliphate (661–750), through to
2 Carpet Museum on the other side of the Hippo- watch skilled artisans at work: They were designated for the The surviving mosaic has a modern times.
Halı Müzesi drome (see p82). For a century they may be binding a book, use of the congregation of surface area of 1,872 sq m (1,969 Each room concentrates on a
after the conquest (see p26), executing an elegant piece of Haghia Sophia (see pp74–7) sq ft), making it one of the different chronological period or
Babıhümayan Cad.
the Ottomans did not know of calligraphy or painting glaze when it was used as a mosque. largest preserved mosaics in geographical area of the Islamic
Open 9am–noon, 1–5pm
the cistern’s existence. It was onto ceramics. Items produced With the women’s entrance Europe. It is thought to have world, with detailed explanations
Mon–Fri. ∑ halimuzesi.com
rediscovered after people were here are all for sale. at one end of the building been created by an imperial in both Turkish and English. The
This beautifully constructed found to be collecting water, and the men’s at workshop that employed the museum is particularly renowned
museum is housed in the soup
kitchens built around 300 years
back, following the conversion
and even fish, by lowering
buckets through holes in
their basements.
5 Baths of Roxelana
the other, their
absolute symmetry
makes them
best craftsmen from
across the Empire
under the
for its collection of rugs. These
range from 13th-century Seljuk
fragments to the palatial Persian
A suggested route takes
Hürrem Sultan Hamamı
in the most interesting and

of the Haghia Sophia into the Visitors tread walkways to perhaps the guidance of a silks that cover the walls from
Aya Sofya Mosque. It has displays the mixed sounds of classical Ayasofya Meydanı, Sultanahmet. most hand- master artist. In floor to ceiling in the palace’s
of fine carpets, mainly Turkish, music and dripping water. The Map 3 E4 (5 E4). Tel (0212) 517 35 35. some baths in terms of great hall.
v Sultanahmet. Open 8am–10pm
woven between the 14th and cistern’s roof is held up by 336 the city. The imagery, the On the ground floor, an
daily. ∑ ayasofyahamami.com
20th centuries. The exhibits
are well labelled. There is also
plenty of useful information
available on weaving processes
columns, each over 8 m (26ft)
high. The original structure
covered a total area of 9,800
sq m (105,000 sq ft) but today
These baths were built in 1556
for Süleyman the Magnificent
men’s section
of the baths
faces Haghia
Sophia and has
mosaic is partic-
ularly diverse,
Detail of a 5th-century mosaic in the with many
Mosaic Museum different
ethnographic section focuses
on the lifestyles of different
Turkish peoples, particularly the
nomads of central and eastern
attractive streets in the area.
and the symbolism of the a fine colon- landscapes Anatolia. The exhibits include
motifs featured on the rugs. naded portico. depicted, including domestic recreations of a round felt yurt
Roxelana
3 Detailed Information
Each end of the baths starts and pastoral episodes, such as (Turkic nomadic tent) and a
Süleyman the Magnificent’s with a camekan, a massive herdsmen with their grazing traditional brown tent.
3 Basilica Cistern power-hungry wife Roxelana domed hall which would animals, as well as hunting and
(1500–58, Hürrem Sultan in originally have been centred fighting scenes. It portrays over
Yerebatan Sarayı
13 Yerebatan Cad, Sultanahmet.
Map 3 E4 (5 E4). Tel (0212) 522 12
59. v Sultanahmet. Open 9am–
Turkish), rose from being a
concubine in the imperial harem
to become his chief wife, or first
kadın (see p30). Thought to be of
on a fountain. Next is a small
soğukluk, or intermediate
room, which opens into a
hararet, or steam room. The
150 different human and animal
figures, including wild and
domestic beasts. There are also
scenes from mythology, with
All the important sights are
7pm daily.
This vast underground water

Russian origin, she was also the
first consort permitted to reside
within the walls of Topkapı Palace
(see pp56–61).
hexagonal massage slab in
each hararet, the göbek taşı, is
inlaid with coloured marbles,
fantastical creatures featuring
on the design. The mosaic is
thought to have adorned the
described individually. They
cistern, a beautiful piece of indicating that the baths are colonnade leading from the
Byzantine engineering, is the
most unusual tourist attraction
in the city. Although there may
Roxelana would stop at
nothing to get her own way.
When Süleyman’s grand vizier and
friend from youth, İbrahim Paşa,
of imperial origin.
The baths functioned as a
public bathhouse for over 350
royal apartments to the imperial
enclosure beside the
Hippodrome, and dates from
are listed in order, following the
have been an earlier, smaller years until 1910. After being the late 5th century AD.
cistern here, this cavernous
vault was laid out under Just-
inian in 532, mainly to satisfy
became a threat to her position, she persuaded the sultan to have
him strangled. Much later, Roxelana performed her coup de grâce. In
1553 she persuaded Süleyman to have his handsome and popular
heir, Mustafa, murdered by deaf mutes to clear the way for her own
used for other purposes
over several decades, the
bathhouse underwent major
numbering on the area map, with
7 Blue Mosque
the growing demands of
the Great Palace (see pp84–5)
son Selim (see p28) to inherit the throne. restoration and reopened for
public use in 2012. See pp80–81.
Recreated yurt interior, Museum of Turkish
and Islamic Arts
practical information about each.
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
Istanbul Area Map

Istanbul Area by Area
The coloured areas shown on this The map below shows the four central areas of Istanbul that
contain many of the sights in this guide. Other sights are
covered in chapters on Greater Istanbul, the Bosphorus, and
Excursions from Istanbul. Each of the main sightseeing areas
map (see inside front cover) are the has been colour-coded for easy reference. Use the thumb tabs
on the top of the pages to guide you directly to the area you
wish to explore.
four main sightseeing areas used

in this guide. Each is covered in a Greater Istanbul
Pages 110–135
Beyond Istanbul
Pages 138–151
Excursions from
Istanbul
Pages 152–179
full chapter in Istanbul Area by Area G O

L
(pp50–109). They are highlighted

BEYOĞLU
D
E
N
H
on other maps throughout the
O
R
B O S P H O R U S
N
book. In Istanbul at a Glance (see
pp36–45), they help you to locate The Bazaar Quarter
Pages 86–101
Beyoğlu
Pages 102–109
the top sights. The introduction

to the Street Finder (see pp246–263) THE BAZAAR
QUARTER
SERAGLIO
POINT
shows on which detailed street

map you will find each area. SULTANAHMET
0 metres 500
Seraglio Point Sultanahmet
0 yards 500
S E A O F M A R M A R A Pages 52–69 Pages 70–85
Introductory
text gives an
GREATER ISTANBUL
Away from the city centre there are many
sights which repay the journey to visit them.
G R E AT E R I S TA N B U L
Eyüp, a focus of pilgrimage to Muslims,

where you can visit a number of fine
111
4 Introduction to Greater Istanbul Greater

Istanbul has its own introduction, outlining
what the city suburbs have to offer the
Greater Istanbul has been divided into five mausoleums and walk up the hill to the
overview of the
areas shown on the map below; each also
has its own map to help you get around.
Closest to the centre are the mosques and
historic café associated with the French
writer Pierre Loti. Following the Bosphorus
northwards past Beyoğlu (see pp102–9)
sightseer. It is divided into five districts,
churches of Fatih, Fener and Balat: most brings you to the Dolmabahçe Palace, one
main sights in conspicuously the gigantic Fatih Mosque.

Across the Golden Horn (see p91) from Balat
are two sights worth seeing: Aynalı Kavak
of the top sights of Istanbul. This opulent
fantasy created in the 19th century by Sultan
Abdül Mecit I requires a lengthy visit.
shown on a map.
the Greater Palace and a fascinating industrial museum.
The Theodosian Walls, stretching from the
Golden Horn to the Sea of Marmara, are
Beyond it is peaceful Yıldız Park containing
yet more beautiful palaces and pavilions.
Not all visitors to Istanbul make it to the
Istanbul area. one of the city’s most impressive monu-

ments. Along these walls stand several
ancient palaces and churches: particularly
Asian side, but if you have half a day to spare
it is only a short ferry trip from Eminönü
(see pp242–3). Its attractions include some Practical information is provided in an
interesting is the Church of St Saviour in splendid mosques, a handsome railway
Chora, with its stunning Byzantine mosaics.
Beyond the walls, up the Golden Horn, is
station and a small museum dedicated to
British nurse, Florence Nightingale. information block. The key to the symbols
Beyond Taksim
see pp124–31
used is on the back flap.
Şişli
Eyüp
see pp122–23
Teşvikiye
A map of the
Feriköy Beşiktaş
Eyüp
s 124 G R E AT E R I S TA N B U L B E YO N D TA K S İ M 125
Taksim ru
o
h
sp
city shows Fatih, Fener & Balat

see pp112–15
Balat
Beyoğlu B
o
Beyond Taksim 2 Çırağan Palace

Çırağan Sarayı
The area to the north of Taksim Square (see p109) became
Greater Istanbul
Üsküdar Dolmabahçe Cad, Beşiktaş. Map 9 D3.
Topkapı fashionable in the 19th century, when sultans built palaces along Tel (0212) 236 90 00. @ 25E, 40.
the Bosphorus and in the wooded hills above it. The extravagant ∑ ciragan-palace.com
Fatih
Sirkeci
Dolmabahçe Palace, built by Abdül Mecit I (see p32), started the
and the areas Kocamustafapasa Sultanahmet

Kadiköy
trend. High-ranking court officials soon followed, and the area
achieved a glamour that it retains to this day. Two other sights
worth seeing are on the northern shore of the Golden Horn. Aynalı
Sultan Abdül Mecit I started
work on Çırağan Palace in 1864,
but it was not completed until
1871, during the reign of Abdül
covered in the Along the City Walls

see pp116–21
Sea of
Marmara The Asian Side
see pp132–35
Kavak Palace is the last surviving trace of a grand palace built by
Ahmet III (see p29), while the Rahmi M Koç Museum, in nearby
Hasköy, is an interesting industrial museum. Hasköy became a royal
Aziz (see p32). It replaced an
earlier wooden palace where
torch-lit processions were held
during the Tulip Period (see p29).
chapter’s sub- Key

Central Istanbul
0 kilometres 1
park in the 15th century and later supported fruit orchards, before
dockyards brought industrialization to the area in the 19th century.
Ortaköy’s fashionable waterfront
square and ferry landing
The palace was designed by
Nikogos Balyan. At the sultan’s
request he added Arabic
Greater Istanbul touches from sketches of Moorish
divisions. Main road

0 miles 1
RE
YO
LU
Merkez
buildings such as the Alhambra Baroque-style staircase at the Pavilion of the Linden Tree
V
at Granada in Spain. Externally

BO
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Motorway
YA C A D
ĞA Zİ
Sisli
this is reflected in the honeycomb before being restored in 1990 Mecit I (see p32) often came
Ü
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VARI
D
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Other road A
PR
capitals over its windows. The as the Çırağan Palace Kempinski here and stayed in the original
Çİ
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FU L
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City Walls
HALA S KA RGA
sultan entered Çırağan Palace (see p188). pavilion on this site. That
KÖ
İÇ RÜ
İ
AZ
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FU SÜ directly from the Bosphorus, building was so unassuming

ARO
Ferry route Ğ L
BO ÇE
YA
D
BARB
VR through the ornate ceremonial that the French poet Alphonse

A
IC
DE
Ğ E
Fetıhtepe Osmanbey
3 Yıldız Park
RE
gates along its shoreline. de Lamartine (1790–1869)

NA
PA Ş A B U LVA R I
Ortaköy
Sİ
S
KO
İ
LU
L Çırağan Palace had a sad, See pp126–7.

expressed great surprise that a
VA
OK AĞI
Modest interiors of the Church of St Saviour in Chora For map symbols see back flap Feriköy short history as an imperial sultan should have entertained
MAÇ
D
CA
AN residence. Abdül Aziz died here him in a humble cottage, with
D
Beşiktaş
AĞ
H U R İYET C A
KA
ÇIR
Ortaköy
in 1876, supposedly committing 4 Pavilion of the a gardener working in plain
P İ YA L E
Kurtulus
CA
suicide – although his friends Linden Tree view through the windows.
D
D
A CA
D
ER
EC Taksim AŞ Besiktaş believed he had been murdered. In 1857 Abdül Mecit chose
Ihlamur Kasrı
CUM
Kasımpaşa APD Şİ K
T
DOL BE
0 kilometres 1 His successor, Murat V (see p35), Nikogos Balyan, who had by
Taksim was imprisoned in the palace Dolmabahçe Cad, Beşiktaş. Map 8 B2. then finished Dolmabahçe
Beyoğlu 0 miles 1
for a year after a brief reign of Tel (0212) 236 90 00. @ 26 (from Palace with his father, to design
only three months. He died in Eminönü). Open 9am–5pm Tue–Wed another residence here. Two
Sights at a Glance & Fri–Sun. & 8
5 Introduction to Greater Istanbul Kasımpaşa the Malta Pavilion (see p127) 27 separate pavilions were built,
1 Ortaköy 8 Palace Collections Museum
years later, still a prisoner. The the grander of which is the
Key 2 Çırağan Palace 9 Dolmabahçe Mosque
palace was eventually destroyed This one-time residence of Ceremonial Pavilion, or Mabeyn
3 Yıldız Park pp126–7 0 Military Museum
Central Istanbul by fire in 1910. It remained a sultans, dating from the early Köşkü, used by the sultan
areas An introduction places the Motorway

Main road
4 Pavilion of the Linden Tree
5 Naval Museum
6 National Palaces Painting
q Santralistanbul Museum
of Energy
w Aynalı Kavak Palace
burnt out shell for many years, 19th century, stands in
beautiful, leafy gardens
which are planted with
and his guests. The Entourage
Pavilion, or Maiyet Köşkü, a short
distance away, was reserved for
Other road Collection e Miniatürk magnolias and camellias, the sultan’s retinue, including
area in its historical context and Temporary bridge 7 Dolmabahçe Palace pp130–31 r Rahmi M Koç Museum and decorated with
ornamental fountains.
Today, the gardens are a
the women of the harem. Both
buildings are open to visitors –
the Entourage Pavilion is
1 Ortaköy bar and café scene, which in the somewhat incongruous currently a café and bookshop.
provides a map showing the Map 9 F3. @ 25E, 40.

Crouched at the foot of
summer especially is the hub of
Istanbul’s nightlife (see p221).
Mecidiye Mosque (or Ortaköy
reminder of the city’s
Ottoman past, being
situated in the midst of
The pavilions are constructed
mainly of sandstone and
marble. Their façades are in
numbered sights. Bosphorus Bridge (see p140), the

suburb of Ortaköy has retained a
village feel. Life centres on İskele
Meydanı, the quayside square,
Camii), the suburb’s impressive
landmark, is on the waterfront.
Built in 1855 by Nikoğos Balyan,
who was responsible for
the modern suburbs of
Teşvikiye and Ihlamur.
As the pavilion’s name
suggests, the area was
the Baroque style, with double
stairways, many decorative
embellishments and hardly a
single straight line to be seen.
which used to be busy with Dolmabahçe Palace (see pp130– once a grove of lime The ornate interiors of the
fishermen unloading the day’s 31), it has grace and originality, (linden) trees, and the buildings reflect 19th-century
catch. Nowadays, though, with window-filled tympanum gardens are all that remain Ottoman taste, incorporating
Ortaköy is better known for its arches and corner turrets. of what was previously a a mixture of European styles.
lively Sunday market (see p215), Ortaköy also has a Greek vast wooded park. This With their mirrors, lavish fur-
which crowds out the square and Orthodox church, Haghios park was a favourite retreat nishings and gilded details,
surrounding streets, and its shops Phocas, and a synagogue, Etz and hunting ground of the they are similar to but less
Cobbled Ortaköy side street lined with selling the wares of local artisans. Ahayim. The origins of both date Çırağan Palace, notable for the Moorish-style Ottoman sultans. In the ostentatious than those of
cafés and shops It is also the location for a thriving from the Byzantine era. embellishments above its windows early 19th century, Abdül Dolmabahçe Palace.
158 B E YO N D I S TA N B U L E DFor
İ Rmap 1 5see9back flap
N E symbols
Edirne: Selimiye Mosque . Dome

The dome masterfully
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Selimiye Camii dominates the entire Practical Information
interior of the mosque. Mimar Sinan Cad, Edirne.
The Selimiye is the greatest of all the Ottoman
Not even the florid Tel (0284) 213 97 35. Open daily.
mosque complexes, the apogee of an art form
The Visitors’ Checklist provides

paintwork – the original Closed prayer times.
and the culmination of a lifetime’s ambition for 16th-century decoration
its architect, Sinan (see p93). Built on a slight hill, underwent restoration in
the 19th century – detracts
the mosque is a prominent landmark. Its complex
from its effect.
includes a medrese (see p40), now housing the
Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts (see p157), a
school and the Kavaflar Arasta, a covered bazaar.
detailed practical information.
Selim II (see p29) commissioned the mosque. It . Minarets
The mosque’s four slender
was begun in 1569 and completed in 1575, a year minarets tower to a height . Minbar
after his death. The dome was Sinan’s proudest of 84 m (275 ft). Each one Many experts claim that the
has three balconies. The two Selimiye’s minbar, with its
achievement. In his memoirs, he wrote: “With the
northern minarets contain conical tiled cap, is the finest
help of Allah and the favour of Sultan Selim Khan, in Turkey. Its lace-like side
three intertwining staircases,
I have succeeded in building a cupola six cubits each one leading to a panels are exquisitely carved.
wider and four cubits deeper than that of Haghia different balcony.
Sophia”. In fact, the dome is of a diameter
comparable to and slightly shallower than that
of the building (see pp74–7) Sinan had so
longed to surpass.
KEY
1 The columns supporting the

arches of the courtyard are made
of old marble, plundered from
Byzantine architecture.
2 Mihrab, cut from
Marmara marble
The Interior
The mosque is the supreme
achievement of Islamic architecture.
Its octagonal plan allows for a
reduction in the size of the buttresses
supporting the dome. This permitted
extra windows to be incorporated,
making the mosque exceptionally
light inside.
6 Istanbul’s Major Sights
These are given two or more
full pages. Historic buildings
Ablutions Fountain
3 The müezzin mahfili (see p40)
are dissected to reveal their

Intricate, pierced carving decorates the top
still retains original, intricate 16th-
of the 16-sided open şadırvan (ablutions
century paintwork on its underside.
fountain), which stands in the centre of
Beneath it is a small fountain.
the courtyard. The absence of a canopy
4 Entrance from Kavaflar Arasta
interiors. Where necessary,

helps to retain the uncluttered aspect
of the courtyard.
sights are colour-coded to

help you locate the most
interesting areas.
Sultan’s Loge
Courtyard Portals The imperial loge is supported on green
Alternating red and honey- marble columns. They are connected by
coloured slabs of stone were used to pointed arches, whose surrounds are adorned
build the striking arches above the courtyard with floral İznik tiles (see p163). Unusually, its
portals. This echoes the decoration of the Main ornately decorated mihrab contains a shuttered
magnificent arches running around the entrance window, which opened on to countryside
mosque courtyard itself. when the mosque was first built.
INTRODUCING
ISTANBUL
Great Days in Istanbul 10–13

Putting Istanbul on the Map 14–19
The History of Istanbul 20–35
Istanbul at a Glance 36–45
Istanbul Through the Year 46–49
10 I N T R O D U C I N G I S TA N B U L
GREAT DAYS IN ISTANBUL

Istanbul is a frenetic city with a wealth of Some of the city’s best attractions are
culture, history and nightlife. Split in two by arranged first thematically and then by
the Bosphorous Strait, it is the only city in duration of stay. All the sights are cross-
the world to straddle two continents, Europe referenced to the rest of the guide, so it is
and Asia, and thus has two contrasting atmos- possible to look up more information and
pheres. These itineraries are designed to tailor the day to suit your needs. Price guides
provide a flavour of the city as a whole. include meals, transport and admission fees.
Kumpkapı. Savour delicious

seafood from any of the 50 fish A Family Day Out
restaurants located here. Again,
many outlets do not display Family of four allow $120
prices, so inquire before placing • See Istanbul in miniature
your order.
• Take a boat trip to
Büyükada
Afternoon
After lunch, take a taxi to the • Admire Büyükad from a
Galata Bridge. Stroll across horse-drawn carriage
the bustling bridge to Karaköy,
then ride the Tünel antique Morning
funicular up to Beyoğlu (see Catch a bus or taxi from Taksim
pp102–109), before making your Square to Miniatürk (see pp222–
way up İstiklâl Caddesi (see 3) in Sütlüce on the northern
pp104–5) to shop for clothes, shore of the Golden Horn (see
A range of exotic spices for sale in the shoes, books and music. Further p91). The park displays mini-
Spice Bazaar up is the district of Çukurcuma atures of the city’s most famous
(see p109), which is famous as sights, such as Haghia Sophia
Shopping and a hunting ground for antique (see pp74–7), as well as other
Seafood furniture and ornaments. treasures from around the
Nevizade Sokak, just off İstiklâl country that reflect Turkey’s rich
Two Adults allow at least $105 Caddesi, is a narrow street lined heritage. There is also a chil-
•
Refresh your senses in the with dozens of traditional dren’s park and a museum
Spice Bazaar meyhanes or taverns (see p191). showcasing photographs of
•
Shop for antiques
The area comes alive at night, Atatürk, the great Turkish leader
in Çukurcuma
when hundreds of locals flock of the early 20th century, and the
here and passers-by are seren- battles at Gallipoli. After such a
•
Haggle in the unmissable aded by traditional musicians busy morning, head to Minia-
Grand Bazaar playing fasil, a local form of türk’s attractive café-restaurant
•
Enjoy the buzz on gypsy music. overlooking the Golden Horn.
Nevizade Sokak
Morning
Start the day with a riot of
colour, stalls and smells at the
Spice Bazaar (see p90). Shop
for exotic food items, including
handmade Turkish delight
and creamy goats’ cheese here.
Next, head up to the bustling
Grand Bazaar (see pp100–101),
a labyrinthine Ottoman
shopping complex housing
thousands of leather, rug,
ceramics and jewellery shops.
Be sure to bargain as prices are
mostly inflated and price tags
are often absent altogether.
All this shopping is bound to
whet your appetite, so head
for the waterfront district of The busy, bustling dock at Eminönü
Mosaic depicting the infancy of the Virgin Mary, Church of St Saviour in Chora
G R E AT D AY S I N I S TA N B U L 11
Afternoon
Head back to Istanbul after
lunch and hop on a ferry
bound for Büyükada, one of
the nine islands that make up
the Princes’ Islands (see p161).
It is a one-and-a-half-hour trip
from Kabatas pier (one hour
and ten minutes from Kadiköy
pier), so there is plenty of time
to admire the pretty view and
watch as Istanbul recedes on
the horizon. On arrival, stroll
around the main square of
Saat Meydanı or take a horse-
drawn carriage ride around
the island. Climb the hill to The Fortress of Europe overlooking the Bosphorus
St George’s Monastery for
panoramic views and enjoy a Afternoon Sarıyer or Emirgan and get off at
meal at the hilltop restaurant. Devote at least three hours to Arnavutköy on the Bosphorus.
exploring Topkapı Palace (see There are some lovingly restored
Mosques, Museums pp56–61), a sprawling complex Ottoman houses and mansions
and Hamams of courtyards, gardens, fountains, to admire here, most of them
a harem and a collection of painted in pastel shades and
Two Adults allow at least $140 priceless antiques. Then, at the trimmed with intricate wooden
• Byzantine iconography end of a long day, indulge in fretwork. Cafés line the
at Haghia Sophia that most Turkish of pleasures, backstreets, so relax and unwind
• Get a glimpse of the past a visit to a Turkish bath (see p69). over a coffee and a pastry. From
at the Museum of Turkish Çemberlitas Baths (see p83) in Arnavutköy, continue walking
and Islamic Arts Sultanahmet is one of the finest. northwards, past the fishing boats
and pleasure cruisers bobbing
• An awe-inspiring visit to on the water, until you reach
Topkapı Palace Bebek (see p140 & p148), one of
Istanbul’s most affluent villages.
Dine in style at the well-reviewed
Morning Poseidon (see p206). Sip an
Begin the day with a visit to aperitif and enjoy the splendid
the iconic Blue Mosque (see view here before savouring the
pp80–81), famous for its slender menu of fresh fish.
minarets and blue Iznik tiles.
Stroll through the well-tended Afternoon
garden at the front before Delve into history at the imposing
making your way to the Fortress of Europe (see pp142–
imposing Haghia Sophia (see 3), built in the 15th century as
pp74–7), once the largest and part of the Ottoman Turkish
most famous church in the city, Golden mosaic of Virgin Mary with baby conquest of Constantinople.
later a mosque and today a Jesus, at Haghia Sophia There is also a fantastic view of
museum. Inside is a marvellous the Bosphorus from here. After-
array of Byzantine mosaics, wards, walk up the Bosphorus
marble tile panels and
Up the Bosphorus to the Sakıp Sabancı Museum
beautifully incised capitals, as (see p143), set in a restored 1920s
well as a huge domed ceiling. Two Adults allow at least $95 villa with fine views across the
Next, head to the nearby • Experience the European strait. The museum hosts
Museum of Turkish and Islamic shore of the Bosphorus remarkable art and culture
Arts (see p79), which has a exhibitions and has a beautiful
• Soak up the views at the
wonderful collection of glass calligraphy display. Continue
Fortress of Europe
and metalwork, carpets and north to the delightful
manuscripts from down the
•
Stroll through the pretty 19th-century pavilions of nearby
centuries, as well as modern village of Bebek Emirgan Park (see p143) with its
art from Turkey and overseas. many pine, fir and cypress trees
For lunch, head to Divanyolu and an ornamental lake. This
Caddesi, which is dotted with Morning attractive setting is the venue
traditional restaurants offering Catch a bus from Taksim Square for the Tulip Festival, which is
prices to suit all budgets. or Eminönü bus terminus to held in April every year.
Then walk down to Rüstem Paşa Day 2

2 days in Istanbul Mosque (see pp90–91), famed for Morning
its İznik tiles, before wandering Visit the Blue Mosque (see pp80–
•
Gaze in awe at the soaring through the exotically scented 81), its vast interior spangled
dome of the Haghia Sophia Spice Bazaar (see p90). Exit onto with predominantly blue
•
Enjoy a steamed bath in the the Eminönü waterfront, clust- İznik tiles. Head out onto the
Ottoman Çemberlitaş Baths ered around the historic Galata Hippodrome, a pleasant square
Bridge (see p91), before finishing once a chariot-racing circuit
•
Cruise the Bosphorus, the
with the Bosphorus Cruise (see rivalling Rome’s Circus Maximus.
ribbon of water separating
pp146–51) up the famous strait. Flanking it is the Museum of
Europe and Asia
Turkish and Islamic Arts (see
p79), which is home to superb
3 days in Istanbul carpets. Tread downhill to the
Day 1 beautiful Sokullu Mehmet Paşa
Morning •
Delve into the eerie Mosque (see p84) and the nearby
Start at the monumental Haghia underground world of Byzantine SS Sergius and
Sophia (see pp74–7), one of the the Basilica Cistern Bacchus’ Church (see pp84–5).
world’s truly iconic buildings. •
Haggle for a Turkish
Cross the tram line to the Milion carpet in the Grand Bazaar Afternoon
(see p73), a marble fragment Weave through the crowds to
•
Follow in the footsteps of
once part of a mighty triumphal explore the wonderful Topkapı
Ottoman sultans through
arch. Beneath your feet lies the Palace (see pp56–61), home to
the Topkapı Palace
atmospherically lit Basilica artifacts as varied as the 86 carat
Cistern (see p78). Resurface Spoonmaker’s diamond and the
onto Divanyolu Caddesi, an mantle of the Prophet Mohammed.
historic thoroughfare lined with Day 1 After exiting the intriguing suite
traditional Turkish lunch spots. Morning of rooms that comprise the
Get to know Istanbul’s history palace’s women’s quarters, the
Afternoon at the maze-like Archaeological Harem (see pp60–61), catch a
Cross Divanyolu to the Museums (see pp64–7) before tram to the Cemberlitaş Baths
Blue Mosque (see pp80–81), a strolling through Gülhane Park (see p83) and ease those aching
cascade of tumbling domes and (see p63) to tea gardens over- limbs. Opposite the baths rises
slender minarets. Exit onto the looking the Bosphorus. Exit Constantine’s Column (see p83),
Hippodrome (see p82), the central the park and head up pretty erected in AD 330.
barrier of the chariot-racing track Soğukçeşme Sokaği (see p63),
marked by the Egyptian Obelisk. lined with period houses, to lunch Day 3
Then ride the tram to the Grand in Cafer Ağa Courtyard (see p63). Morning
Bazaar (see pp100–101), a centur- Start with the short version
ies old mall selling everything Afternoon of the Bosphorus Cruise (see
from fake Louis Vuitton bags Explore the city’s Byzantine past pp146–51), which takes visitors
to antique Turkish rugs. Exit to in the sunken Basilica Cistern (see up to the first continent-span-
Constantine’s Column (see p83) p78), famed for its Medusa-head ning bridge and back again.
before crossing an alley to relax carvings. Emerge at street level Cross the square to the Ottoman
in the steam of Ottoman-era by the Milion (see p73), a scrap Spice Bazaar (see p90) and try your
Çemberlitaş Baths (see p83). of a once magnificent triumphal hand at haggling. Head back to
arch, before crossing the tramway the vibrant Eminönü waterfront
Day 2 to Haghia Sophia (see pp74–7), for a fish sandwich and watch
Morning with its soaring dome and the anglers massed on the
Begin the day with a trip to the glittering mosaics. Galata Bridge (see p91).
15th-century Topkapı Palace
(see pp56–61), which stands in
splendid isolation on a hilltop
overlooking the Bosphorus and
Sea of Marmara. Don’t miss the
labyrinthine Harem (see pp60–
61) before catching the tram to
the peaceful grounds of the
Süleymaniye Mosque complex.
Afternoon
Explore the Süleymaniye Mosque
(see pp92–93) complex which
presides majestically over the
third of Istanbul’s seven hills. The majestic Haghia Sophia, Istanbul’s most famous monument
G R E AT D AY S I N I S TA N B U L 13
Afternoon
After lunch, head to the Rüstem
Paşa Mosque (see pp90–91), an
intimate place of worship in the
heart of the bazaar, before visiting
the Süleymaniye Mosque (see
pp92–93) complex to soak up fine
views from its grounds. Next,
stop at the Grand Bazaar (see
pp100–101), where a cornucopia
of wares awaits eager buyers.
The colourful Grand Bazaar teeming with shoppers

5 days in Istanbul
Afternoon Istanbul’s signature building,
•
Get to grips with Turkey’s Head uphill to the Archaeological Haghia Sophia (see pp74–7).
fascinating history in the Museums (see pp64–7) and
Archaeological Museums immerse yourself in Turkey’s Day 4
•
Enjoy impressive views long history before relaxing with Morning
of the Old City from the tea in Gülhane Park (see p63) Begin atop the city’s third
landmark Galata Tower and enjoying the views to Asia. hill and explore its “crown”,
Finish with a short stroll up period the wonderful Süleymaniye
•
Admire the glittering
Soğukçeşme Sokaği (see p62). Mosque (see pp92–93) complex.
Byzantine mosaics at the
Wind down through a bustling
Church of St Saviour
Day 3 bazaar to Rüstem Paşa Mosque
Morning (see pp90–91), an Ottoman
Weave your way down to the gem, then stroll to the domed
Day 1 Sea of Marmara to view the SS splendours of the Spice Bazaar
Morning Sergius and Bacchus’ Church (see p90). Weave through the
The sprawling administrative (see pp84–5), then up to Istanbul’s Eminönü waterfront crowds, cross
heart of the Ottoman Empire and finest small mosque, Sokullu the Galata Bridge (see p91) to the
the opulent residence of its sultans, Mehmet Paşa (see p84). Housed in Tünel underground funicular and
the Topkapı Palace (see pp56–61), a former Grand Vızier’s residence ride up to İstiklâl Caddesi.
makes for an engrossing start to above is the engaging Museum
the day, especially when combined of Turkish and Islamic Arts (see Afternoon
with the ‘’forbidden’’ women’s p79). Outside the museum is the Start the afternoon at the Mevlevi
quarters, the Harem (see pp60–61). Hippodrome (see p82), where Lodge (see pp106–107), home of
chariots once raced. Walk across the mystical Whirling Dervishes,
Afternoon it to the spectacular Blue then wander along Istanbul’s main
Catch the tram to the Grand Mosque (see pp80–81). shopping street, İstiklâl Caddesi
Bazaar (see pp100–101), a 500- (see pp104–105). Walk down
year-old mall, and lunch in one Afternoon cobbled lanes to the Genoese
of its myriad tradesmen’s cafés Spare a quick glance for the sole Galata Tower (see p107) for
before exploring its maze of surviving piece of a monumental panoramic views of the Old City.
alleys and thousands of shops. triumphal arch, the Milion (see
Exit by the Nuruosmaniye Gate p73), then head down into the Day 5
and head to Constantine’s beautiful Basilica Cistern (see Escape the inevitable foot-
Column (see p83), a late Roman p78). Emerge from its depths slogging around the sites and
marvel. Opposite is the Çember- and cross the tramway to explore relax on the full-day Bosphorus
litaş Baths (see p83), ideal for Cruise (see pp146–51), starting
relaxing after a day’s sightseeing. near the Galata Bridge. The cruise
passes two suspension bridges,
Day 2 various waterfront mansions
Morning and palaces and a couple of
Take the tram to the city’s Ottoman fortresses – and there’s
imposing land walls, walk to the a lunch stop in a fishing village.
Church of St Saviour in Chora Alternatively, take a ferry from
(see pp120–21) and admire its Kabataş to explore one or more
splendid mosaics. Stroll north of the picturesque, traffic-free
alongside the walls, past the rem- Princes’ Islands (see p161) in
nants of the Byzantine Palace of the Sea of Marmara, where
the Porphyrogenitus (see p119) you can explore on foot, hire
and drop down to the Golden Detail on a mosaic in the Church a bicycle or opt for a horse-
Horn and catch a ferry to Eminönü. of St Saviour in Chora drawn carriage.
Odessa
Putting Istanbul on the Map

Istanbul stands astride the straits of the Bosphorus,
straddling the European and Asian parts of Turkey and
bordered to the south by the Sea of Marmara. The city is
divided not only by the Bosphorus but also by the Golden
Horn, an inlet forming a natural harbour. Although no
longer the capital of Turkey (see p33), Istanbul continues
to be the country’s largest and most fascinating city.
BULGARIA
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ISTANBUL
İpsala Tekirdağ
Alexandroupolis Keşan
Malkara
Princes'
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Sea of
Şarköy Marmara
Koruköy Marmara
Yalova
Gelibolu
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Bandırma
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Ayvacık
Balya T U R K E Y
Gülpınar Edremit Balıkesir Kepsut
Harmancık
Burhaniye Tavşanlı
Lésvos Ayvalık
Emet
Mytilíni kı r Ç ay ı
Ba Sındırgı
Bergama
Simav Gediz
Aegean Akhisar
Sea
Venice
Gölmarmara
Karaburun
Marmara Tekstil Osb Uşak
Ge
Manisa diz
Nehri
Gölü
Chíos
Kula
Çeşme Turgutlu Salihli
İzmir
Alaşehir
Ödemiş
Kusadası
P U T T I N G I S TA N B U L O N T H E M A P 15
Key
Greater Istanbul and Environs Black Sea
Motorway
Major road Arnavutköy Bahçeköy
Alibahadır
Other main road Sarıryer
Cumhuriyet
Railway Beykoz
Emirgan
Ferry route
Başakşehir Polonez
International border
Bağcılar Beyoğlu
Esenyurt
Üsküdar
Küçükçekmece Fatih
0 kilometres 40 Atatürk Sultanbeyli

Airport
0 miles 40 See next page
Sabiha Gökçen
Maltepe Airport
Sea of Marmara
0 kilometres 7 Pendik
Princes’
0 miles 4 Islands
Samsun,
Trabzon
Meydan
B l a c k S e a
Bartın
Zonguldak
Kayabaşı
Gökçebey
˘
Eregli Safranbolu
Şile
Kandıra Karasu Devrek rmag˘ı
Karabük Ye n i c e l
Akçakoca
Sakarya Düzce e Ça y ı
Kocaeli
(Adapazarı) G e red
(İzmit)
Gerede
Gölcük Sapanca Bolu
Gölü Akyazı
İznik İznik Mudurnu

Gölü
Göynük
Yenişehir
Sarılar
ay ı
Nallıhan ir Ç
Beypazarı rm
Bilecik Ki
Kazan
eh ri
S aka r y a N
Sarıyar
Bozüyük Barajı
Ankara
İnönü Milhallıçcık
Eskişehir
Europe and the Mediterranean ESTONIA
S WE DE N
Region North LATVIA
DE NM AR K
Sea LITHUANIA RUSSIAN
F E D E R AT I O N
Kütahya REP. OF
UNITED
IRELAND KINGDOM BELARUS
NETH. POLAND
GERMANY
BELGIUM
CZECH
REPUBLIC UKRAI NE
SLOVAKIA
Çavdarhisar AUSTRIA MOLDOVA
FRANCE SWITZ. HUNGARY
Atlantic SLOV.
ROMANIA
Altıntaş Ocean CROATIA
BOSNIA
HERZ. SERBIA Black Sea
I T A LY BULGARIA
MONTEN. KOS. GEORGIA
Dumlupınar MAC. Istanbul
SPAIN ALBANIA
ARMENIA
PORTUGAL GR E E C E TURKEY
Afyonkarahisar
Mediterranean CYPRUS SYRIA
TUNISIA
Sea LEBANON IRAQ
MOROCCO
ISRAEL
ALGERIA
JORDAN
EGYPT SAUDI
LIBYA ARABIA
Çivril
For map symbols see back flap

Greater Istanbul
The expanding metropolis of Istanbul spreads along the
Bosphorus to the north, beyond the airport to the west, and
inland from the Asian shore in the east. Its official population
is just over 14 million but the actual population is probably
much higher. Transport improvements are being made to
make getting around this vast urban area easier. Most
visitors, however, stay in the historical central parts where
the major sights are located.
O2
Alibe
LU ATA
TÜR
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DD
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Gaziosmanpaşa
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O2
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Eyüp
O3 Eyüp
Bayrampaşa Sütlüce
HALKALI CADDESİ Esenler Esenler

FAT IH TRA Hasköy
CAD KY Ayvansaray
DESI A
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Airport
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Yeşilköy
Yeşilyurt
F LO R Y
A CAD
S e a o f M a r m a r a
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 2
Marmara,
Bandirma, Bursa
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Beykoz
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İÇ
EV
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Kasımpaşa Üsküdar
Beyoğlu Kabataş
YO
LU
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Üsküdar
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O1
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D
ISTANBUL
CA
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Kadıköy YO Sabiha Gökcen Airport
Söğütlüçeşme LU
Kocaeli (İzmit),
Ankara
Kızıltoprak
K AY I
ŞDA
ĞI C O2
ADD ESİ
Feneryolu
Göztepe
Kozyatağı
BA
Key ĞD
AT
CA
D10
Central Istanbul DD
ES
0
İ Erenköy
Greater Istanbul
YEN
İ
Motorway
SA
Suadiye
İL
H
Main road YO
LU
Other road Bostancı
Railway Bostancı
Ferry route
Metro / light rail station
Tram station
Princes’ Islands,
Yalova, Çınarcık, Gemlik
Central Istanbul
This guide divides central Istanbul into
four distinct areas, each with its own
chapter. Three areas lie on the southern
side of the Golden Horn. Seraglio Point is
a raised promontory on which stands the
sumptuous Topkapı Palace. Two architectural
masterpieces, Haghia Sophia and the Blue
Mosque, dominate the area of Sultanahmet.
The pace of life is quite different in the Bazaar
Quarter, a maze of narrow streets filled with
İ
ES
DD
frenetic commerce. North of the Golden
CA
İstiklâl Caddesi, Beyoğlu
Horn is Beyoğlu, which for centuries was the Old-fashioned trams shuttle up and D
AM
K
SO
S AY
preferred place of residence of Istanbul’s down the pedestrianized street that
TU
KU Y
JUR
foreign communities, and is still markedly forms the backbone of this area SOKNAL
RE FİK
(see pp102–109).
cosmopolitan in atmosphere.
ESİ
DD
E
CA LEDİY
A
R C
DE
D
N
BE
KE NE
O K Ç UD D E S I
İS HA
İLK
DE ŞİŞ SOK
CA
ZA
CU
MUSA
L
The Grand Bazaar, YO
O A
AT
K
Bazaar Quarter L S
G AESİ
FÜ
TE
TU
BA L
This quaint former coffee
RS
KU
H A NE
NK
A
AL
T CA
AR
house stands at a junction
SO D
K
Atatürk Köprüsü Tünel
in the labyrinthine old Atatürk Bridge TE
RS
Karaköy
A N E CAD
shopping complex at the
heart of the city’s Bazaar Haliç
G
Quarter (see pp86–101). o
I
ld
R
en
A
KA
K AT
G
LV
ZA Ho
SO AY
I PNCIL
rn
H
NI
BU
Ü
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D IN MU KIBL ŞP
H A C I KA ÇARDAK CAD
RA E Ç A
SO T E ESM LA
YAZIT CA D
M K FE EC
CA
İ CAD
NAMAHRE
ND AD
SOK
I D
ĞI S
RK
B E S A RI
K A Dİ
Eminönü
SOÜLHA
ÇELE B
CA
FETV
CAD
AY
TÜ
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TA
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SOK
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AD
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SİYAVUŞ
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M Sİ ĞI
YEN İ CAM
AL
A
YE
NE VAS IF ÇI N
R AR CAD AŞİR
THE BAZAAR
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M EKTEBİ
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CA
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D
ZEYNEP
KAMİL SOK D ER ÜNİVERSİTE Grand F EF END İ SOK
CAD Bazaar ŞERE
Major Sight KURULTAY SOK
CAD
SOKDAR
CADBIALİ
ORDU CADDESİ YENİÇERİL Beyazıt

DES
ER
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TÜRB
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BA
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KARA ZIT
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ŞAİR HAŞMET SOK DİVANYO

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CAD N
LA
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Karaköy EM
K
Topkapı Palace, Seraglio Point
CAD
This 18th-century marble pavilion, the
RIHTIM
Karaköy Library of Ahmet III, stands in one of the
courtyards of Topkapı Palace. The walls of
Galata Köprüsü
Galata Bridge
the palace grounds now enclose Gülhane
Park (see p63) as well as many other
historic buildings.
Eminönü
ESİ
KE NNE DY C ADD
Sirkeci
SERAGLIO
)
LU
i
Sirkeci
POINT
ES
(SA HIL Y O
İSTASYON ARKASI SOK

DD
SOK
N Ö BE
THANE
CA
C AD D
N
ESI
ATU
EB
AH
U
K A RA
SS
TAY
U
U
T Topkapı
ALEMD A R
CA
D Palace
HÜ
N
K
SO ÜM
A
K ET
KO
NA
YE ĞI Gülhane
RE
B
CAD
AT
AN
SI
A C
i
Sultanahmet DD
DES
ES Haghia
I
Sophia
CADDES
CAD
I İS
HA
K
KPA
SO
NI
AT
Y
ŞA
K
DA
MEYDANI
SO
D
CA
HIPPODROME
E
EY
ÜN
N
D
D
M
UG
CA
Blue
AT
TL
E
IK
Mosque
KU
K
Y
BI
K
View across Sultanahmet

A
S U LTA N A H M E TRAN
CA
TA K
The six slender minarets of the Mosque of Sultan
S I UR IR O
D DE CA
NK AHPI S Ahmet I, better known as the Blue Mosque, soar above
CA OK KA
İ
PI S
Lİ KA the spacious square in the middle of Sultanahmet
S
FENER SO
K E
AKSAKAL SOK NCU
OYU D (see pp70–85), Istanbul’s most historical district.
D
KE N N E D Y C A
T H E H I S TO R Y O F I S TA N B U L 21
THE HISTORY OF
ISTANBUL
Istanbul was founded in the 7th century BC on a naturally defensive
site from which trade along the Bosphorus could be controlled. For
16 centuries it was a great imperial capital, first of the Byzantine Empire
and then of the Ottoman sultans. Some knowledge of the histories of
these two civilizations will help the visitor to appreciate the magnificent
monuments found throughout the city.
The topography of Istanbul was of Athens and Megara to establish a colony

formed at the end of the last Ice Age, on the European side of the Bosphorus.
when meltwaters created the Bosphorus. This colony, known as Byzantion, grew
The Stone Age cultures in the area were to be a successful independent city-state,
replaced by Copper Age villages and or polis, one of the 40 most important
walled Bronze Age towns (notably Troy, such states throughout the ancient Greek
see p173). The Bosphorus was an important world. During the next few centuries,
trade route in the ancient world along Byzantion worked in partnership with
which ships carried wine and olive oil Chalcedon, using the same coinage and
north from the Mediterranean, and grain, sharing the tolls exacted from passing
skins, wool, timber, wax, honey, salted sea trade.
meat and salted fish south from regions But Byzantion had to struggle to
around the Black Sea. maintain its independence in the
The area around the Bosphorus was mercurial politics of the ancient world.
subjugated by a series of peoples, starting It endured Lydian (560–546 BC), Persian
with the Mycenaeans (1400–1200 BC). (546–478 BC), Athenian (478–411 BC) and
Between 800 and 680 BC the region was Macedonian (334–281 BC) rule before
controlled by the kingdom of Phrygia. briefly regaining its autonomy. In 64 BC
Later, in 676 BC, Greek expeditionaries it was subsumed into the Roman Empire
founded the city of Chalcedon (on the as Byzantium. The city was almost
site where modern Kadıköy now stands). destroyed in AD 195 by Septimius Severus
because of its support for his rival for
The Foundation of Byzantion the imperial throne, Pescennius Niger.
The foundation of Istanbul is usually It survived the Goths’ devastation of
dated to 667 BC when, according to Chalcedon in AD 258 but trade in the
legend, a Greek colonist, Byzas, led an region dramatically declined in the
expedition from the overcrowded cities following years.
AD 195 Roman emperor

c.676 BC Chalcedon, 340 BC Philip II of Septimius Severus destroys
Alexander
a Greek settlement, Macedonia Byzantium but later rebuilds it
the Great
founded on the unsuccessfully and creates the Hippodrome
Asian shore besieges city
600 BC 400 BC 200 BC AD 1 AD 200
c.667 BC Byzantion 334 BC Alexander 64 BC Pompey AD 258

reputedly founded by the Great crosses the brings Byzantion Goths
Greek colonists from Hellespont (Dardanelles) into the Roman destroy
Athens and Megara, led and conquers Anatolia Empire, renaming Chalcedon
by Byzas it Byzantium
The Byzantine emperor Justinian the Great shown with one of his prefects in a mosaic
Constantine the Great fell to barbarian armies during the 5th century,
In AD 324, after defeating his co-emperor the Greek-speaking Eastern Empire, which we
Licinius, Constantine the Great (324–37) know today as the Byzantine Empire, survived.
became sole ruler of the Roman Empire. One
The Age of Justinian
of his greatest achievements was to move
the capital of the empire from The 6th century was dominated by the
Rome to Byzantium. Initially, extraordinary genius of Justinian (527–65),
Constantine preferred the who developed Constantinople into a
site of Troy (see p173) for his thriving city and almost succeeded in
capital, but was persuaded reconquering the lost provinces
by advisers that Byzantium of the Western Empire from
Gold aureus of held a superior position for the barbarians. At the
Constantine both defence and trade. time of his death the
Constantine’s city was empire had expanded
officially styled the “New Rome” but became to its greatest size,
widely known as Constantinople. The and covered Syria,
emperor quickly started on an ambitious Palestine, Asia
programme of construction work, which Minor, Greece,
included the Great Palace (see pp84–5) and the Balkans, Italy, Empress Theodora, wife
various public buildings. southern Spain and of Justinian
Constantine was also instrumental in the many territories in northern
spread of Christianity. According to legend, he Africa, including Egypt.
saw a vision of the cross before a battle in 312. Justinian’s formidable wife, the ex-courtesan
Although not actually baptized until just Theodora, had a great deal of influence over
before his death, he worked hard to create a him. In 532 she persuaded the emperor
coherent system of Christian belief out of the to use mercenaries to put down an angry
variant practices of the day. All the early mob in the most notorious event of his
church councils took place in the city or nearby, reign, the Nika Revolt. In the carnage that
the first being held in followed, 30,000 were
Nicaea (modern-day İznik, killed inside the
see p162), and the second Hippodrome (see p82).
in Constantinople itself. Justinian was also
A successor of responsible for much
Constantine, Theodosius I of the city’s great
(379–95), divided the architecture, including
empire between his two Haghia Sophia (see
sons, Honorius and pp74–7), Haghia Eirene
Arcadius. When the Latin- Relief from the Egyptian Obelisk (see p82), (see p62) and parts of
speaking Western Empire showing Theodosius I and his courtiers the Great Palace.
324 Constantine 395 On the death of 476 The Western Roman 674 Five-year-
becomes ruler of the 330 Theodosius I, the Empire falls to barbarians long siege of
Roman Empire Inauguration of empire is divided Constantinople
532 Nika Revolt is put down by
Constantinople into two initiated by the
mercenaries; 30,000 are killed
Saracens
300 400 500 600 700
325 First church 337 Constantine 412 Construction 537 Emperor Justinian 726 Leo III issues a
council meets is baptized a work begins on the dedicates the new decree denouncing
at Nicaea Christian on his Walls of Theodosius II Haghia Sophia idolatry, and many
deathbed (see p24) icons are destroyed
Walls of Theodosius II
The Byzantines at War

The Byzantine Empire never again
attained the splendour of the reign
of Justinian, but throughout the first
millennium it remained rich and
powerful. During the early Middle Ages,
Constantinople was an oasis of learning,
law, art and culture at a time when
Europe was plunged into a dark age “Greek fire”, used by the Byzantines against the Arabs
of ignorance and illiteracy. Considering
themselves to be the leaders of Christianity, In 1059 Constantine X, the first of the Dukas
the Byzantine rulers dispatched missionaries dynasty of emperors, ascended to the
to spread their religion and culture among throne. The state over which the dynasty
the Slavic nations, especially Russia. presided was a weakened one, divided
During this period, Constantinople between the over-privileged bureaucracy in
produced some capable emperors, in the capital and the feudal landlords of the
particular Heraclius (610–41), Basil the provinces. At the same time increasing
Macedonian (867–86), Leo the Wise dependency on foreign mercenaries placed
(886–912) and Basil the Bulgar-Slayer the empire’s defence in the hands of its most
(976–1025). Between them these rulers aggressive neighbours. These included the
contributed a number of Normans from southern Italy,
buildings to the city and the Venetians, and Turkic
recaptured lost provinces. nomads from the east.
Never without enemies The Byzantine imperial army
greedy for a share of the was totally destroyed at the
prodigious riches that had Battle of Manzikert (1071) and
been amassed in the city, again, a century later, at the
Constantinople was besieged Battle of Myriocephalon (1176)
by Slavs, Arabs, Avars, Bulgars, by the Seljuk Turks from the
Persians and Russians, all east. These losses effectively
without success because of ended Byzantine rule of
the protection of the land Anatolia, which had for so long
walls. The surrounding seas, A 6th-century ivory carving of a Byzantine been the backbone of the
meanwhile, were under the emperor, possibly Anastasius I (491–518) empire. The remarkable
control of Constantinople’s Comnenus dynasty (1081–
powerful navy. Its main ship was the dromon, 1185) ruled for a century after the Dukas
an oared vessel which could ram another ship emperors, between these two defeats. Their
but above all deliver the dreaded “Greek fire”, main achievement was to succeed in
an early form of napalm. holding the rest of the empire together.
843 Icons are 1071 The Byzantine army is

permitted again destroyed by the Seljuk Turks at 1138 John II 1176 The Seljuk
by seventh the Battle of Manzikert. Emperor Comnenus Turks defeat the
church council at Romanus Diogenes is disgraced recovers Serbia Byzantine forces
Haghia Sophia and deposed at the Battle of
Myriocephalon
800 900 1000 1100 1200
1054 The Orthodox and 1096 The armies of the

Catholic churches break away First Crusade pass through
from each other because of Constantinople and assist
Haghia Sophia differences over dogma Alexius I Comnenus to retake
mosaic the Anatolian seaboard from
the Seljuk Turks
The City of Constantinople

For almost a thousand years Constantinople was
the richest city in Christendom. It radiated out from
three great buildings: the church of Haghia Sophia
(see pp74–7), the Hippodrome (see p82) and the Great
Palace (see pp84–5). The city also had a great many other
fine churches and palaces, filled with exquisite works
of art. Daily life for the populace centred on the four
market squares, or fora. Meanwhile, their need for fresh
water was met by an advanced network of aqueducts
and underground water cisterns.
Walls of Theodosius
Theodosius II’s great chain of land
walls (see p116) withstood countless
The City in 1200 sieges until the Ottoman conquest
At its height, the magnificent city of of the city in 1453 (see p28).
Constantinople probably had about 400,000
inhabitants. The population density was
relatively low however, and there was space Mocius Cistern
within the city walls for fields and orchards.
The Golden Gate

was a ceremonial
gate through the
city’s ramparts.
Church of St John of Walls of Constantine Forum of Harbour of

Studius (see p118) (now totally destroyed) Arcadius Theodosius
Byzantine Church Architecture Typical Late

Byzantine Church
Early Byzantine churches were either basilical
(like St John of Studius) or built to a A central apse
centralized plan (as in SS Sergius and is flanked by two
Bacchus). From the 9th century, churches, smaller side apses.
like the typical example shown here,
were built around four corner piers, or
columns. Exteriors were mostly Four
unadorned brickwork, but interiors columns
support the
were lavishly decorated with golden
dome.
mosaics. Although the Ottomans
converted Constantinople’s churches
into mosques after their conquest of Brickwork may
the city, many original features are alternate with
clearly discernible today. layers of stone.
The narthex, a covered porch, Golden mosaics cover the

forms the entrance to the church. ceilings and upper walls.
Church of the Holy Apostles

The domes of what was one of the city’s most
important churches (see p115) are shown in this
12th-century image of the Ascension.
Aetius Cistern Blachernae Palace

(see p119)
St Saviour in Chora Valens Aqueduct
(see pp120–21) Monastery of the Water from the Belgrade Forest (see p160) and
Pantocrator (see p115) the mountains west of the city was brought into
Constantinople on this great structure (see p91).
Forum of Theodosius
(see p95)
Forum of
Constantine (see p83)
Basilica Cistern
This cavernous cistern
Chain across Golden (see p78) represented
Horn (see p91) a great feat of engineer-
ing when it was built
in the 6th century.
Church of
SS Sergius
and Bacchus Hippodrome Great Palace Haghia Eirene
(see p84) (see p82) (see pp84–5) (see p62)
Haghia Sophia
The great church
of Constantinople
(see pp74–7) was Milion
filled with mosaics, This stone pillar (see p73)
including this one is all that remains of a
showing the Virgin Byzantine triumphal arch
and Child with the from which road distances
emperors Constantine to all corners of the empire
and Justinian. were once measured.
The capture of Constantinople during the Fourth Crusade of 1202–4
The Fourth Crusade Count of Flanders. Through the dark years

In 1202, an army of 34,000 responded to that followed, known as the Latin Empire,
an appeal from Pope Innocent III for a new the once great city was reduced by pillage,
crusade to the Holy Land. This unruly force misrule and emigration to a scattering of
of Christians lacked the funds to get beyond disconnected villages grouped behind the
Venice, where it needed to hire ships. city walls. Outside Constantinople, the exiled
It consequently fell under the influence Byzantine emperors survived the turmoil,
of Enrico Dandolo, the biding their time as the
manipulative Doge of Venice. rulers of the Empire of
With his backing, the crusaders Nicaea, just to the south,
were soon diverted to which included modern-
Constantinople, where they day İznik (see p162).
helped the young Alexius IV
take the throne. Constantinople
However, six months later, in Decline
when they realized they In 1261, Constantinople was
were unlikely to receive their recaptured for Byzantium
promised financial reward from by Michael VIII Palaeologus
the emperor, the crusaders lost (1258–82), who met almost
patience and launched a new Icon of St Michael, now in Venice, no resistance in the process.
an example of the fine Byzantine
attack, ousting Alexius in favour art plundered by the Venetians He did this with the aid of
of one their own, Baldwin I, during the Fourth Crusade the Italian city of Genoa,
1202 An army assembles in Venice to launch 1331 Ottomans capture

the Fourth Crusade 1261 Michael VIII Nicaea (modern İznik)
Palaeologus recaptures
1204 Alexius IV is deposed and Baldwin I is 1326 Prusa (Bursa) is taken and
Constantinople from
crowned emperor of a new Latin Empire becomes the Ottoman capital
the Venetians
1200 1225 1250 1275 1300 1325

1203 Dandolo, Doge of 1299 Osman I founds
Venice, diverts the Fourth the Ottoman Empire 1321 Outbreak of
Crusade to Constantinople. the disastrous
He cuts the chain across the Bronze horses taken by 33-year-long
Golden Horn (see p91) and Dandolo from the Hippodrome Byzantine civil war
storms the city (see p82) to Venice
which was naturally disposed to fight (1328–41) over the succession. This led to
against her rival Venice. Yet she still exacted the disastrous civil war of 1321–54.
a crippling price for her assistance. The
Genoese established the colony of Pera The Rise of the Ottomans
across the Golden Horn from Constantinople, The Ottoman state was born in 1299 when
and effectively took control of the city’s trade. Osman I, a leader of warriors who were
Constantinople’s recapture and fighting for the Muslim faith on the eastern
reconstruction caused a flowering of frontier of the Byzantine Empire, declared
scholarship and artistic activity, his independence. The new state
known as the Palaeologue quickly expanded and in 1326
Renaissance after the family of captured Prusa (modern-day
emperors. An example of the Bursa, see pp164–70), which
many beautiful buildings became its capital. The judicious
dating from this period is the piety of the Ottomans soon
Church of St Saviour in Chora won them the support of the
(see pp120–21). general population of their
During this period the double- Two-headed territories, and even of some
headed eagle was adopted as the Byzantine eagle Christian brotherhoods. Meanwhile,
imperial crest, with the two heads a professional core of Janissaries (see
symbolizing the western and eastern halves p129) was created to add stability to an army
of the empire. Yet, within a few decades which was otherwise too dependent on
there was further discord in Constantinople, Turkic and renegade volunteer cavalry.
when a quarrel arose between Andronicus II By 1362, with the Ottoman capture of
(1282–1328) and his grandson Andronicus III Adrianople (Edirne, see pp156–9), Byzantium
had been reduced to the city-state of
Constantinople and a few minor outposts,
isolated within Ottoman domains. In 1391
the Ottoman army made its first attack on
the city’s colossal land walls. Only a
Mongol incursion in 1402 delayed the
invasion of Constantinople itself. As
the threat increased, the Byzantine
emperor made a last-ditch effort to win
the support of the Latin West in 1439. The
Hungarians alone answered his call for
help, forming a 25,000-strong crusade.
However, in 1444 they were defeated en
Mosaic of the Virgin Mother and Child in St Saviour route by the Ottomans at the Battle of
in Chora Varna on the Black Sea.
1451 Mehmet II succeeds to the

1362 Murat I conquers Adrianople Ottoman throne and orders the
(Edirne), which then becomes the construction of the Fortress
Ottoman capital. Byzantium is reduced of Europe (see p142) to seal
to the city of Constantinople the Bosphorus
1350 1375 1400 1425 1450
1348 The Galata Tower 1444 A Hungarian army on its

is built by the Genoese 1391 First Ottoman siege way to help Constantinople
inhabitants of the city of Constantinople by is destroyed by the Ottomans
as a watchtower over Galata Yıldırım Beyazıt (Beyazıt I) at Varna on the Black Sea.
the Pera quarter Tower Constantinople’s last hope
of survival is lost
The Conquest of Constantinople rule the Ottoman

On 29 May 1453 Sultan Mehmet II (1432–81), Empire reached its
known as “the Conqueror”, entered maximum extent.
Constantinople after a 54-day siege during At the time of his
which his cannon had torn a huge hole in the death the empire
Walls of Theodosius II (see p116). Mehmet’s stretched from
first task was to rebuild the wrecked city, Algiers to the
which would later Caspian Sea and Ottoman Empire
become known as from Hungary to Maximum extent (1683)
Istanbul. The Grand the Persian Gulf.
Bazaar (see pp100–101) Much of western Europe only just escaped
and Topkapı Palace conquest when an Ottoman army was
(see pp56–9) were driven back from the gates of Vienna in
erected in the years 1529. Süleyman’s reign was a time of great
following the Muslim artistic and architectural achievements.
conquest. Religious The architect Sinan (see p93) designed
foundations were many mosques and other great buildings
Sultan Mehmet II, endowed to fund the in the city, while the Ottoman arts of
“the Conqueror” building of mosques ceramics (see p163) and calligraphy (see p97)
such as the Fatih (see also flourished.
p115) and their associated schools and baths
(see pp40–41). The city had to be repopulated
by a mixture of force and encouragement.
People from all over the empire moved to
Istanbul, and Jews, Christians and Muslims
lived together in a cosmopolitan society.
Mehmet and his successors pushed the
frontiers of the empire across the Middle East
and into Europe. In the early 16th century,
Selim I (1512–20) conquered Egypt and
assumed the title of caliph (see p31), as well
as establishing the Ottomans as a sea power.
He is also notorious for killing all his male
relatives bar one son, to ensure that there
were no rivals for the succession.
Süleyman the Magnificent

Selim’s one surviving son was Süleyman I, Depiction of the unsuccessful siege of Vienna
“the Magnificent” (1520–66), under whose by the Ottomans
1458 The Ottomans conquer Athens 1561 Süleyman

1453 Mehmet the 1536 Grand Vizier executes his
1461 Trebizond on the Black Sea, son Beyazıt on 1571 Defeat of the
Conqueror enters İbrahim Paşa is killed on
the last part of the Byzantine suspicion of treason Ottoman navy at the
Constantinople on the orders of Süleyman’s
Empire, is conquered Battle of Lepanto
29 May wife, Roxelana (see p78)
1450 1475 1500 1525 1550
1455 Yedikule 1478 Topkapı Palace 1556 Inaugur-

1533 Hayrettin Paşa,
Castle (see p117) is completed ation of Sinan’s
built and work better known as
Barbarossa, is Süleymaniye
begins on the 1470 Fatih Mosque is
appointed grand Mosque
Grand Bazaar built over the Church of
admiral (see pp92–3)
the Holy Apostles Süleyman I
The Sultanate of Women

Süleyman’s son Selim II (1566–74),
“the Sot”, was not such a capable
ruler, although he added Cyprus
to the empire. The defeat of his
navy by the Venetians at the
Battle of Lepanto was a heavy
blow to Ottoman ambitions to
be a seafaring power. This era
was also the start of the so-called The Battle of Lepanto, a defeat for the Ottoman navy
“Sultanate of Women”, when
Selim’s mother (the valide sultana, see attempt to capture Vienna in 1683. The
pp30–31) and Nur Banu, his principal wife Treaty of Karlowitz in 1699 marked the start
(the first kadın), effectively took over power of the Ottoman withdrawal from Europe.
and exercised it for their own ends.
Corruption and intrigue became endemic, The Tulip Period
and after Selim’s death Nur Banu kept her Ahmet III (1703–30), on his succession to
son, Murat III (1574–95), distracted by the the throne, left power in the hands of his
women of the harem so that she could capable grand vizier, İbrahim Paşa. The
maintain her control over imperial affairs. sultan preferred pleasure to politics. During
Osman II (1618–22) was the first sultan his reign, beautiful Baroque palaces, such
to try to reverse the decline of the empire. as Aynalı Kavak Palace (see p129),
But when the Janissaries (see p129) learnt fountains, mosques and yalıs (see p141)
of his plans to abolish their corps, they were built. Formal gardens were laid
started a revolt which out and filled with tulips, Ahmet’s
eventually led to his assass- favourite flower, which lent their
ination. Murat IV (1623–40) name to the period of his rule.
enjoyed more success in The sultan even ordered tulips
his attempts at reform and to be scattered over the floor
significantly reduced at the lavish festivals and
corruption during his entertainments that he
stable period of rule. staged for the Ottoman
The late 17th century Osman II, who failed to halt elite. He also sent an
saw many years of Ottoman decline ambassador, Mehmet
capable government by Çelebi, to France to
a succession of grand viziers from the investigate Western civilization and culture.
Albanian Köprülü family. Yet their efforts On his return, Western clothes and costumes
were not sufficient to stem the decline in became not only acceptable for the first
imperial fortunes, symbolized by a failed time, but fashionable.
1616 The Blue Mosque (see pp80–

81) is finished after eight years of
construction work by the 1699 The loss of Hungary under
architect Mehmet Ağa the Treaty of Karlowitz marks
the Ottomans’ retreat from Europe
1600 1625 1650 1700 1725
1622 Revolt of the

1729 The first Ottoman
Janissaries. They murder
Osman II in Yedikule printing press is set up in
Castle, the Prison of Istanbul and begins to
Domes of the Blue Mosque
the Seven Towers print texts in Turkish
Ottoman Society The grand

vizier, the prime
Beneath the sultan, Ottoman society was divided into a privileged minister, was the
ruling class (the askeri, which included the religious hierarchy, sultan’s right-
hand man.
or ulema) and a tax-paying subject population (reaya). Rank
and honour, however, were not hereditary but could be gained
through education or service in the army or administration.
This social structure was modified during
the reforms of the 19th century (see p32),
but Ottoman titles were only finally
abolished in 1922 after the Turkish
Republic was created (see p33).
The sultan was at the apex of the

social order and everyone owed
allegiance to him. He lived a life
of ease and luxury, as seen in this
portrait of Selim III (1789–1807). The
Ottoman (Osmanlı in Turkish) sultans
were always succeeded by one of
their sons, but not automatically
by the eldest.
Bayram Reception (c.1800)
In this painting by Konstantin Kapidagi, Selim III
Minister of the (1789–1807, see p32) presides over a parade of
Ağa of the Interior high-ranking officials during the celebration of a
Şeyhülislam
Janissaries (Grand Mufti) religious festival (see p49) at Topkapı Palace.
Chief
executioner
The Women of the Harem
Like all other Ottoman institutions the harem was
hierarchical. It was presided over by the sultan’s mother,
the valide sultana. Next in order of importance came
the sultan’s daughters. Immediately below them were
the four kadıns, the official wives or favourites. Then
came the gözdes (girls who had recently caught the
sultan’s eye), and the ikbals (women with
whom he had already slept).
Apart from the sultan’s family
members, all these women
had entered the harem as
slaves. They were kept under
Men of high rank could be a watchful eye by a powerful
recognized by their different stewardess, the kahya kadın.
uniforms, above all their large and
distinctive headgear, as seen in this
portrait of four Ottoman officials. The One of the sultan’s favourites
turban was abolished by Mahmut II (kadıns) as depicted in a
(see p32) in 1829 in favour of the 19th-century engraving
more egalitarian fez.
Black Ottoman Titles

eunuchs The Gate of Felicity Ağa: leader of an
(see p56), in the second organization. The most
courtyard of Topkapı influential ağas were the
Sword bearer Palace, was used for such commander of the
to the sultan ceremonial occasions. Janissary corps, the
sultan’s elite troops
(see p129), and the
Ağa of the Abode
of Felicity, or chief
black eunuch,
who was in charge
of the harem Chief black
(see pp60–61). eunuch
Bey: governor of a
district or province. The word is
now used simply to mean “Mr”.
Caliph: spiritual ruler of the
Islamic world. The title was
assumed by the Ottoman sultans,
beginning with Selim the Grim
in 1517.
Gazi: honorary title given to a
victorious Islamic warrior.
Kadi: judge charged with
interpreting Islamic law
and Ottoman administrative
codes.
Khedive: viceroy of Egypt under
Ottoman rule (1867–1914).
The autonomous khedives
acknowledged the religious
leadership of the Ottoman
Empire.
Paşa: title bestowed on a senior
civil servant or high-ranking army
officer. According to his rank, a
paşa was entitled to display one,
Chief lackey (footman)
two or three horsetails on his
The sultan is
standard (see p58).
surrounded by his
courtiers. He is the Şeyhülislam Chief of the sultan’s Sultan: political and religious
only seated figure. (Grand Mufti) bodyguard ruler of the empire.
Şeyhülislam (Grand Mufti): head
of the ulema, a religious institution
Black Dancing Valide which was made up of “learned
eunuchs women sultana Dwarf men” responsible for interpreting
and enforcing Islamic law (sharia).
Valide sultana: mother of the
ruling sultan.
Vizier: minister of state. The
four most senior ministers
were called “viziers of the
dome” because they
attended cabinet
meetings in the
domed hall of the
divan in Topkapı
Palace (see pp56–61).
From the 16th
The valide sultana, the most powerful woman in the harem, century, the divan
is the centre of attention in this festive scene. The picture was presided over
was commissioned c.1689 by Madame Giradin, wife of the by the immensely
French ambassador. powerful grand vizier Grand
(the prime minister). vizier
bureaucracy replaced the old system of

rule by military and religious powers. By
doing this he paved the way for his sons
Abdül Mecit (1839–61) and Abdül Aziz (1861–
76) to oversee the Tanzimat (Reordering), a
series of legislative reforms. Functionaries
were given higher salaries to deter them
from taking bribes, and the grand vizier’s
post was replaced by that of prime minister.
A constitution was declared in 1876,
creating parliamentary government.
However, the Russian-Turkish War of 1877–8
led to Abdül Hamit II suspending it and ruling
alone for the next 30 years. In 1908 a bloodless
revolution by a collection of educated men –
the so-called Young Turks – finally forced
the sultan to recall parliament.
Atatürk and Westernization

A Janissary leaps to his death in a German painting Throughout the 19th- and early 20th-
of the Auspicious Event of 1826 centuries, the Ottoman Empire steadily
lost territory through wars with Russia and
The Reforming Sultans Austria, and to emerging Balkan nation-states
Abdül Hamit I (1774 – 89) resumed the work such as Serbia, Greece and Bulgaria. Then, in
of reform and was succeeded by Selim III, World War I, despite famously winning the
who instituted a wide range of changes to battle for Gallipoli in a valiant defence of the
the military and to Ottoman society. He was Dardanelles (see p172), the Ottoman Empire
deposed by a Janissary mutiny in 1807. found itself on the losing side. Istanbul was
Mahmut II (1808–39) realized that the occupied by victorious French and British
Janissary corps (see p129) could not be
reformed, so he established a modern
army alongside them, but the Janissaries
rebelled and were massacred on 15 June
1826 in the “Auspicious Event”. Soon after,
in 1829, the sultan introduced further
modernizing measures including
changes in the dress code.
Later in his reign Mahmut reorganized
central government so that a regulated Artillery in action at Gallipoli
1807 Much of the city Dolmabahçe clock tower 1870 Schliemann 1888 Rail link
is destroyed during begins excavation of with Paris leads to
a Janissary revolt 1845 First (wooden) Troy (see p173) first run of the
against Mahmut II Galata Bridge is built Orient Express
over the Golden Horn (see p68)
1800 1825 1850 1875 1900
1856 Abdül Mecit I abandons

1826 Mahmut II Topkapı Palace for the new
finally destroys the Dolmabahçe Palace (see pp130–31)
Janissaries in their Orient
own barracks in the 1875 The Tünel underground railway system, the third Express
“Auspicious Event” built in the world, opens in Galata poster
troops, and much of Western Anatolia by migrants from Anatolia have poured in,
Greek forces. The peace treaties that followed the population has increased, and although
rewarded the victors with Ottoman territory small communities of Jews and Armenian
and as a result stimulated Turkish and Greek Orthodox Christians remain within
nationalists to take over power the city, they are now vastly outnumbered
from the sultan. by Turks.
The history of modern Turkey A booming economy has led to an over-
is dominated by the figure of haul in the city’s transport infrastructure.
Mustafa Kemal Paşa (1881– Several metro lines have been built, new
1938), a military hero turned trams run through the city and high-speed
politician, universally known catamarans make use of the seas around
as Atatürk, or “Father of Istanbul. A third Bosphorus road bridge
the Turks”. It was at his is under construction, along with a third
instigation that the Turkish international airport. The beautifully restored
War of Independence was historic buildings, an array of hotels and
fought to regain land lost to restaurants and the vibrant nightlife have led
A portrait of Atatürk the Allies and, in particular, to a major increase in the number of visitors.
Greece. At the end of this war, But, like Turkey as a whole, Istanbul is
the present territorial limits of Turkey forever wrestling with a divided half-Asian,
were established. Atatürk then started a half-European identity. The influences of
programme of political and social change. these contrasting cultures remain widely
The sultanate was abolished in 1922, and evident today and create the city’s
religion and state were formally separated a unique atmosphere.
year later, when the country was declared
a secular republic. His reforms included
replacing the Arabic alphabet with a
Roman one, allowing women greater social
and political rights, encouraging Western
dress (the fez was banned) and obliging all
Turks to choose a surname.
Modern Istanbul
Another part of this process was to
move the institutions of state from the
old Ottoman city of Istanbul to the more
centrally located Ankara, which became
the capital of Turkey in 1923. Since then,
Istanbul has gone through a dramatic The suspension bridge spanning the Bosphorus, which opened
transformation into a modern city. As in October 1973
1919–22 British and 1938 Atatürk dies Turkish flag 2014 Recep Tayyip Erdoğan elected president of Turkey
French occupy Istanbul in Dolmabahçe
Palace at 9:05am 1993 The Islamicist Welfare 2010 Istanbul
1922 Sultanate on 10 November Party takes control of the becomes European
finally ends (see p131) Greater Istanbul Municipality Capital of Culture
1925 1950 1975 2000
1915 Allied 1936 Haghia Sophia 1973 A suspension 1996 The UN Conference on 2013 Erdoğan’s
forces land at becomes a museum. bridge is built Human Settlement (Habitat AKP (Justice and
Gallipoli but Restoration starts across the II) is held in Istanbul Development
are repulsed Bosphorus (see Party) win
by Turkish 1928 Istanbul becomes p140), linking east 2002 Recep Tayyip Erdoğan record third
troops the city’s official name and west Turkey is elected Prime Minister election
The Ottoman Sultans

The first Ottomans were the leaders of warlike tribes living on the
borders of the Byzantine Empire. From the 13th century, however,
the dynasty established itself at the head of a large empire.
In their heyday, having captured Istanbul in 1453 (see p28),
the Ottoman sultans were admired and Murat III (1574–95),
whose tuğra (see p97) is
feared for their military strength and shown above, fathers
ruthlessness towards opponents and rival over 100 children
pretenders to the throne. Later sultans
often led a decadent lifestyle while power
was exercised by their Selim II, “the Sot”
viziers (see p31). (1566–74), prefers
drinking and harem
life to the affairs
of state
Selim I, “the Grim”

(1512–20), seen
here at his coronation,
assumes the title of
caliph after his conquest
Osman Gazi (1299–1326), a of Egypt
tribal chieftain, establishes the
Ottoman dynasty
Mehmet I
Murat I (1413–21) Beyazıt II
(1359–89) (1481–1512)
1250 1300 1350 1400 1450 1500 1550
1250 1300 1350 1400 1450 1500 1550

Orhan Gazi
(1326–59) is the
first Ottoman to Süleyman I, “the
bear the title Magnificent”
of sultan (1520–66), expands
the empire and
fosters a golden
age of artistic
achievement
Beyazıt I (1389–1402) is nicknamed

“the Thunderbolt” because of the
speed at which he takes strategic
decisions and moves his troops
from one place to another
Period of Interregnum (1402–

13) while Beyazıt’s sons fight each
other over the succession
Murat II
(1421–51), the
greatest of the
warrior sultans,
gains notable
victories against
the Crusaders
Mehmet II, “the Conqueror”

(1451–81), captures
Constantinople in 1453.
He then rebuilds the Mehmet III (1595–1603) succeeds to the
city, transforming it into the throne after his mother has all but one of
new capital of the empire his 19 brothers strangled
Abdül Mecit I (1839–61) presides

Mustafa I (1617–18 over the reforms of the Tanzimat
and 1622–3), a weak and (see p32)
incompetent ruler, reigns
for two short periods and
is deposed twice
Mehmet VI (1918–22), the

last Ottoman sultan, is
forced into exile by the
declaration of the Turkish
Republic (see p33)
İbrahim, “the Mad” (1640–48), Mahmut II, “the Reformer”

much despised, goes insane at (1808–39), finally defeats the Mehmet V
the end of his short but Janissaries (see p129) (1909–18)
disastrous reign
Mahmut I Murat V
Süleyman II Mustafa II (1730–54) (1876)
(1687–91) (1695–1703)
Mustafa III
(1757–74)
1650 1700 1750 1800 1850 1900
1650 1700 1750 1800 1850 1900

Ahmet II
(1691–5) Osman III Abdül Mecit II
(1754–7) Abdül Aziz (1922–3) is caliph
(1861–76) only, the sultanate
Mehmet IV Abdül Hamit I having been
(1648–87) (1774–89) abolished in
1922 (see p33)
Murat IV
(1623–40)
Mustafa IV
Ahmet III (1703–30) 1807–8
presides over a
cultural flowering
known as the Tulip
Period (see p29)
Osman II
(1618–22)
Abdül Hamit II (1876–1909)

suspends parliament for
30 years and rules an auto-
cratic police state until
toppled from power by
the Young Turk movement
Ahmet I (1603–17) has Selim III (1789–1807)

the Blue Mosque (see attempts Western-style
pp80–81) constructed reforms but is over-
in the centre thrown by a revolt
of Istanbul of the Janissaries
I N T R O D U C I N G I S TA N B U L 37
ISTANBUL AT A GLANCE
More than 100 places worth visiting in (see p107), or take a ride on a ferry
Istanbul are described in the Area by Area (see pp242–3) to the city’s Asian shore.
section of this book, which covers the sights A selection of the sights you should not
of central Istanbul as well as those a short miss is given below. If you are short of time,
way out of the city centre. They range you will probably want to concentrate on
from mosques, churches, palaces and the most famous monuments, namely
museums to bazaars, Turkish baths and Topkapı Palace, Haghia Sophia and the Blue
parks. For a breathtaking view across Mosque, which are all located conveniently
Istanbul, you can climb the Galata Tower close to each other.
Istanbul’s Top Ten Sights
Topkapı Palace
See pp56–9
Blue Mosque
See pp80–81
Archaeological Museums
See pp64–7
Dolmabahçe Palace
See pp130–31
Haghia Sophia
See pp74–7
Basilica Cistern Süleymaniye Mosque

See p78 See pp92–3
Church of St Saviour
The Bosphorus Trip Grand Bazaar in Chora
See pp146–51 See pp100–101 See pp120–21
İznik tiles in the Harem of the Topkapı Palace
Istanbul’s Best: Mosques and Churches

Most visitors to Istanbul will immediately be struck
by the quantity of mosques, from the imposing
domed buildings dominating the skyline to the
small neighbourhood mosques which would pass Eyüp Mosque
unnoticed were it not for their minarets. Several The holiest
mosques were built as churches, but converted for mosque in
Islamic worship after the Ottoman conquest (see Istanbul stands
beside the tomb
p28). Some of the most outstanding of them have of Eyüp Ensari, a
since become national monuments, but no longer companion of
serve a religious function. the Prophet
Mohammed
(see p122).
Rüstem Paşa Mosque
St Saviour in Chora
The Dormition of the Virgin is one of
many beautiful mosaics that fill this
Byzantine church (see pp120–21).
Go
ld
e
ABÜ
Church of the
n
LE Ho
Pammakaristos
ZE
rn
LP
An image of Christ
AŞA
Pantocrator gazes down

from the main dome of V
A
what was one of the TA
I
AR
N
most important churches
LV
CA
BU
in the city (see p112). D

D
ES
K
İ
A T AT Ü R
ORDU CADD
ESİ
Fatih Mosque
Rebuilt after an earthquake, Süleymaniye Mosque
this mosque was founded by Sinan, the greatest Ottoman
Mehmet the Conqueror after imperial architect, built this
his conquest of the city (see mosque in honour of his
p28). The inner courtyard is patron, Süleyman the
especially fine (see p115). Magnificent (see p28). He
placed ablution taps in the
side arches of the mosque to
serve a large number of
worshippers (see pp92–3).
I S TA N B U L AT A G L A N C E 39
0 kilometres 1
0 miles 1
Rüstem Paşa Mosque Haghia Sophia

The fine tiles decorating this mosque One of the world’s greatest feats
date from the mid-16th century, the of architecture, Haghia Sophia
greatest period of İznik tile (see p163) dates from AD 537. The calligraphic
production (see p90). roundels were added in the
19th century (see pp74–7).
C AD
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sp NIP
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Ç A VUŞ D E R E C A D
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Atik Valide Mosque

HİL
DO
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The last major work of Sinan (see p93),

HA
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this mosque was built in 1583 for the

RE
MU
U
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wife of Selim II. Its mihrab (niche

C
CAD
AD
indicating the direction of Mecca) is

NEDY
surrounded by İznik tiles (see p133).

K EN
Sea of
Marmara
Church of SS Sergius
and Bacchus
An intricate frieze with
a Greek inscription Blue Mosque
honouring the two Istanbul’s most famous landmark
dedicatees of this was built by some of the same
former church has stonemasons who later helped
survived for 1,400 construct the Taj Mahal in India
years (see p84). (see pp80–81).
Exploring Mosques
Five times a day throughout Istanbul a chant is broadcast
over loudspeakers set high in the city’s minarets to call the
faithful to prayer. Over 99 per cent of the population is
Muslim, though the Turkish state is officially secular. Most
belong to the Sunni branch of Islam, but there are also a few
Shiites. Both follow the teachings of the Koran, the sacred
book of Islam, and the Prophet Mohammed (c.570–632),
but Shiites accept, in addition, the authority of a line of 12
imams directly descended from Mohammed. Islamic mystics Overview of the Süleymaniye
are known as Sufis (see p106). Mosque complex
Turkish baths
The ablutions fountain (hamam)
(şadırvan) was used by
worshippers for ritual
Courtyard
washing.
(avlu)
The caravanserai
Prayer hall
or han (see
(cami)
p98) provided
accommodation
for travellers.
A mausoleum (türbe)
was built for the founder
The kitchen of the mosque.
(imaret) catered
for mosque offi-
cials, students, the
sick and the poor. Plan of a Typical Mosque
Complex (Külliye)
A large complex such as the
Hospital Süleymaniye Mosque (see pp92–3),
(darüşşifa) shown here, was built as a charitable
foundation as well as a place of worship. It would
Colleges (medreses) for general typically include a hospital, school, Islamic study halls,
and theological education were caravanserai (lodgings for travellers), public kitchen
built adjacent to the mosque. for the poor, and bathhouse. Today most such
Most now serve other uses. buildings no longer fulfil their original functions.
Inside a Mosque
Visitors will experience a soaring sense of space on
entering the prayer hall of one of Istanbul’s great
mosques. Islam forbids images of living things
(human or animal) inside a mosque, so there are
never any statues or figurative paintings; but the
geometric and abstract architectural details of the
interior can be exquisite. Men and women pray
separately. Women often use a screened-off area
or a balcony.
The mihrab, an ornate The minbar is a lofty

niche in the wall, marks pulpit to the right of the
The müezzin mahfili is a raised platform found in the direction of Mecca. mihrab. This is used by
large mosques. The muezzin (mosque official) stands The prayer hall is laid the imam when he
on this when chanting responses to the prayers of out so that most people delivers the Friday
the imam (head of the mosque). can see it. sermon (khutba).
Muslim Beliefs and Practices

Muslims believe in God (Allah), and the Koran
Prayer Times
shares many prophets and stories with the Bible. The five daily prayer times are
However, whereas for Christians Jesus is the son calculated according to the times
of God, Muslims hold that he was just one in a of sunrise and sunset, and so
line of prophets – the last being Mohammed, change throughout the year.
who brought the final revelation of God’s truth Exact times will be posted up on
to mankind. Muslims believe that Allah boards outside large mosques.
Those given here are a guide.
communicated the sacred texts of the Koran
to Mohammed, via the archangel Gabriel.
Prayer Summer Winter
There are five basic duties for Muslims. The first
Sabah 5am 7am
of these is the profession of faith: “There is no öğle 1pm 1pm
God but God, and Mohammed is his Prophet”. İkindi 6pm 4pm
Muslims are also enjoined to pray five times a day, Akşam 8pm 6pm
give alms to the poor, and fast during the month Yatsı 9:30pm 8pm
of Ramazan (see p49). Once in their lifetime, if they
can afford it, they should make the pilgrimage
(hajj) to Mecca (in Saudi Arabia), the site of the
Kaaba, a sacred shrine built by Abraham, and
also the birthplace of the Prophet.
The call to prayer used

to be given by the muezzin
from the balcony of the minaret.
Nowadays loudspeakers
broadcast the call across the
city. Only imperial mosques
have more than one minaret.
Ritual ablutions
must be under-
taken before prayer.
Worshippers wash When praying, Muslims always
their head, hands face the Kaaba in the holy city
and feet either at of Mecca, even if they are not
the fountain in the in a mosque, where the mihrab
courtyard or, more indicates the right direction.
usually, at taps set Kneeling and lowering the head
in a discreet wall of to the ground are gestures of
the mosque. humility and respect for Allah.
Visiting a Mosque
Visitors are welcome at any mosque in Istanbul,
but non-Muslims should try to avoid prayer
times, especially the main weekly congregation
and sermon on Fridays at 1pm. Take off your
shoes before entering
the prayer hall.
Shoulders and knees
should be covered.
Some mosques
require women to
cover their hair;
scarves can usually
be borrowed. Do not
eat, take photographs
with a flash or stand
The loge (hünkar The kürsü, seen in close to worshippers.
mahfili) provided the some mosques, is a A contribution to
sultan with a screened- chair or throne used a donation box or
off balcony where he by the imam while he mosque official Board outside a mosque
could pray, safe from reads extracts from is courteous. giving times of prayer
would-be assassins. the Koran.
Istanbul’s Best: Palaces and Museums

AS the former capital of an empire that spanned from Algeria
to Iraq and from Arabia to Hungary, Istanbul is home to a
huge and diverse collection of treasures. Some, from musical
instruments to priceless jewels, are housed in the beautiful
former imperial palaces of the Ottoman sultans, which are
worth visiting in any case for their architecture and opulent
interiors. Topkapı and Dolmabahçe are the most famous
palaces in Istanbul. The Archaeological Museums
should also be on any itinerary of the city. This
map points out these and other palaces and
museums which are worth visiting for their
splendid buildings or the exceptional Aynalı Kavak Palace
collections they contain. This reclusive palace, with
its airy feel and intimate
proportions, shows subtler
aspects of Ottoman taste.
It houses a collection of
Turkish musical instruments.
Archaeological Museums
İ
ES
Purpose-built in 1896, these superb
DD
museums have exhibits ranging from
CA
prehistory to the Byzantine era. They
E
R
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include this classical sculpture of the PD
LA
2nd-century Roman Emperor Hadrian. DO
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ER
İST
Vİ L
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SEL
Go
C AD
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ld
en
Museum of Calligraphy AB D
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Some of the texts in Istanbul’s collection of Ü LE

or
ZE Y
BE
n
Ottoman calligraphy (see p97) are by sultans, Tİ

LP
CA
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such as this panel by Ahmet III (1703–30). NE

AC
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V
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Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts N ED Y CA D DESİ

KEN
This Seljuk example is one of the many
carpets (see pp218–19) included in this
museum’s display of Turkish heritage. Other
collections include glassware and ceramics.
Mosaic Museum
Gladiators fighting a lion are Topkapı Palace
shown in one of the floors from
displayed in this small museum.
Beylerbeyi Palace
Adorning one of the
principal atriums of this
19th-century imperial
summer palace is this
elegant marble fountain. The
palace was built to entertain
visiting foreign dignitaries.
Military Museum
A highlight of this museum is
the famous Mehter Band, which
gives regular outdoor concerts
of Ottoman military music.
RI A
OS BULV
İ
ES
DD
B A R BAR
CA
AN
AĞ
ÇIR
SI
E
DD
CA
I
AN
Lİ M Şale Pavilion
İ s Ş A
ru One of a group of pavilions built in
S
PA
DE
o
h leafy Yıldız Park by 19th-century
D
I
sp DES
A
CAD sultans, the Şale Pavilion has

C
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K
B MA
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around 50 splendid rooms,
SEL
including the Mother-of-Pearl Hall.
ÜSK
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GÜN
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SAH
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İL YOLU
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Sea of Dolmabahçe Palace

Marmara This opulent 19th-century palace is home to
such marvels as 2 m (7 ft) high vases, a crystal
staircase and an alabaster bathroom.
Topkapı Palace
This huge palace was
used as the official royal
residence for 400 years.
The treasury contains a
myriad of precious
objects including the 0 kilometres 1
Kasikci Diamond and this
ornate ceremonial canteen. 0 miles 1
Exploring Istanbul’s Collections Calligraphy

Each museum in Istanbul contributes a piece to the In the days before the printed
vast cultural jigsaw of this cosmopolitan city. From word, Ottoman calligraphy
ancient Greek remains and early Chinese ceramics, which (see p97) developed into a
arrived in the city along the Silk Route, to 16th-century tiles highly skilled art form, widely
used both to ornament
commissioned for the great mosques and modern industrial
religious texts and legal
machinery, each has its place in the history of Istanbul. documents and decrees.
Many of the larger museums have a wide range of exhibits The Museum of Calligraphy
and therefore feature under several of the headings below. mounts a continuous series
of temporary exhibitions.
Early Koranic calligraphy
can be viewed in Topkapı
Byzantine Antiquities Palace, the Museum of
Although Constantinople was Turkish and Islamic Arts
the capital of the Byzantine and the Sakıp Sabancı
Empire (see pp22–27) for over Museum (see p143).
1,000 years, it can be hard to
get a full picture of the city in
that period. The best place to Ceramics
The Sarcophagus of the Mourning Women, start is the Archaeological Experts and amateurs come
Archaeological Museum Museums, which have displays from all over the world to
illustrating the city’s Byzantine view the collection of Chinese
history. Its courtyard contains ceramics and porcelain on display
Archaeology the purple sarcophagi of the in the kitchens of Topkapı
The archaeological fruits of the Byzantine emperors. Palace. The earliest examples
expansive Ottoman Empire are For Byzantine church mosaics, provided the inspiration for
displayed in the Archaeological visit the Church of St Saviour Turkey’s indigenous
Museums, where the exhibits in Chora near the city ceramic production
range from monumental 6th- walls which has some at İznik (see p163).
century BC Babylonian friezes particularly fine Examples of İznik tiles
to exquisite classical sarcophagi examples vividly can be seen on the
and statues. Classical sculpture depicting the lives of walls of Topkapı Palace
fills the ground floor. Christ and the Virgin and in the city’s mosques.
Upstairs there is a gallery Mary. The impressive İznik tiles and also
for the archaeology of Syria Haghia Sophia has a pottery are on display
and Cyprus. Ancient oriental few brilliant gold in the Tiled Kiosk
finds are housed in the Ancient mosaics remaining, Museum, in the
Orient Museum, located in the some dating back to Archaeological
same complex. The Museum the reign of Justinian Museums complex,
of Turkish and Islamic Arts (see p22). The galleries and at the Sadberk
features specifically Muslim and upper walls of Mosque lamp from the Hanım Museum.
artifacts, including early Iraqi the funerary chapel Archaeological Museum A wider selection of
and Iranian ceramics as well of the Church of the ceramics from all
as beautiful displays of glassware, Pammakaristos are covered over the Islamic world can be
metalwork and woodwork. with mosaics. Today, the former found in the Museum of
side chapel has been converted Turkish and Islamic Arts.
into a museum.
The Mosaic Museum
houses mosaic floors and Ottoman Interiors
murals from the now-vanished The interiors that can
Byzantine Great Palace be visited in Istanbul run
(see pp84–5), which were the gamut from the classical
discovered by archae- Ottoman styling of the older
ologists in 1938. The parts of Topkapı Palace
Sadberk Hanım to extravagant European-
Museum also inspired 19th-century decor.
houses several In the latter category, the
Byzantine huge Dolmabahçe Palace
antiquities, set the style. It was decorated
including icons, with Bohemian glass and
ceramics and Hereke carpets and has an
Byzantine mosaic floor in the Mosaic Museum jewellery. ornate central stairway
the work of the nurse during

the Crimean War. It also has
some interesting military
exhibits on display.
Painting
Close to Dolmabahçe Palace
is Istanbul’s National Palaces
Painting Museum, which offers
a collection of largely late 19th-
and early 20th-century Turkish
paintings. Another place to see
paintings from a similar period
is the Pera Museum in Beyoğlu.
Those interested in more
contemporary works should
The opulent Süfera Salon in Dolmabahce Palace visit the impressive Istanbul
Modern on the Bosphorus
fashioned of crystal and brass. waterfront in Tophane.
The Pavilion of the Linden Musical Instruments
Tree and the Rococo Küçüksu Examples of typical Turkish
Palace, although more intimate instruments, such as the saz Science and Technology
in scale, are equally lavish in (lute), can be found in a museum Located in a converted
their interior style. devoted to them at Aynalı warehouse in the heart of
Kavak Palace. Those played by Istanbul’s docks is the Rahmi
the Whirling Dervishes are on M Koç Museum. It is home to
Textiles display at the Mevlevi Lodge. a selection of mechanical and
The Ottomans were justifiably Instruments can also be seen, scientific instruments dating
proud of their textile tradition, and bought, in two shops from the early years of the
which can be admired in situated near the entrance to Industrial Revolution, as well
the huge imperial costume Gülhane Park (see p63). Traditional as an entire reconstructed
collection at Topkapı Palace, Turkish military instruments bridge taken from an early
begun in 1850. The palace can be heard being played at 20th- century ship.
collection houses older the Military Museum.
materials, including kaftans
dating back to the 15th Finding the Palaces
century. The Sadberk Hanım Militaria and Museums
Museum houses magnificent, The beautiful barges in which Archaeological Museums pp64–7
mostly 19th-century pieces the Ottoman sultans were Aynalı Kavak Palace p129
on the top floor and some rowed around the Golden Beylerbeyi Palace p140
fine examples of delicate Horn and the Bosphorus are Church of the Pammakaristos
Turkish embroidery. part of the Naval Museum pp112–13
On a larger scale, collection. Naval uniforms Church of St Saviour in Chora
there are huge imperial and paintings of pp120–21
campaign tents in military scenes also Dolmabahçe Palace pp130–31
the Military Museum, feature. Weapons and Florence Nightingale Museum
which also has a armour from the 12th p135
collection of to the 20th centuries Haghia Sophia pp74–7
miniature Janissary can be found in the Istanbul Modern p109
(see p129) costumes. Military Museum, Küçüksu Palace p142
Mevlevi Lodge p106
Uniforms, nomadic along with a cannon,
Military Museum p128
tents and a captured by the
Mosaic Museum p79
renowned Turks during their Museum of Calligraphy p96
selection of European Museum of Turkish and Islamic
fine carpets are campaigns. There Arts p79
on display in is a smaller National Palaces Painting Museum
the Museum selection of p128
of Turkish and Kaftan from weaponry in the Naval Museum p128
Islamic Arts. The Topkapı Palace armoury of Topkapı Pavilion of the Linden Tree p125
collection includes Palace. The Florence Rahmi M Koç Museum p129
rug fragments dating back Nightingale Museum (located Sadberk Hanım Museum p145
to the 13th century, as well as in the Selimiye Barracks on the Topkapı Palace pp56–61
palatial silks on a larger scale. Asian Side) commemorates
ISTANBUL THROUGH
THE YEAR
Istanbul is at its best in late May and early fewer tour parties around, you can enjoy the
September, when temperatures are mild and sights in peace. As well as arts and sporting
sunshine is plentiful. High season, from June events, several public holidays and religious
to August, is the most expensive, crowded festivals punctuate the year. It is wise to be
and hottest time to visit, but the summer arts aware of these when planning an itinerary as
and music festivals are highlights in the city’s some sights may be closed or else crammed
cultural calendar. Late November until March or with locals enjoying a day out. Some of these
April can be damp and dreary. However, Istanbul celebrations are also fascinating spectacles in
is still mild in autumn and winter and, with their own right.
Events Work and Solidarity Day

Easter (March or April). (1 May). Official public holiday
Pilgrimage to the Monastery of when workers usually attend
St George on Büyükada in the union-organized rallies.
Princes’ Islands (see p161). Kakava Festival (early May),
International Istanbul Film Edirne. A celebration of gypsy
Festival (late March–mid-April), music and dance.
selected cinemas. Screening of Youth and Sports Day
Turkish and foreign films and (19 May). Public holiday in
related events. commemoration of the start of
Tulip Festival (April), Emirgan the War of Independence (see
Park (see p143) and around p33) in 1919, with sporting
the city. Displays of spring- events and other activities held
time blooms. throughout the city in stadiums
National Sovereignty Day (23 and on the streets.
April). Public holiday marking International Istanbul Theatre
Tulips growing in Emirgan Park, scene of the inauguration of the Turkish Festival (May–June, every two
the spring Tulip Festival Republic in 1923 (see pp32–3). years), various venues. European
Children take to the streets in and Turkish productions.
folk costume. Conquest of Istanbul (29 May),
Spring Commemoration of the Anzac between Tophane and Karaköy
As the winter smog fades and Landings (25 April), Gallipoli. and on the shores of the upper
sunshine increases, cafés and Britons, Australians and New Bosphorus. Mehmet the
restaurants prepare for the first Zealanders gather at the location Conqueror’s taking of the city in
wave of alfresco dining. After of the Anzac landings at Gallipoli 1453 (see p28) is re-enacted in
a winter’s diet of apples and during World War I (see pp172–3). street parades and mock battles.
oranges, a welcome crop of
spring fruits, including fresh
figs, strawberries and tart green
plums, arrives in the shops.
Toasted sweetcorn is sold from
carts (see p208), and a spring
catch of sea bream, sea bass
and turbot is on the menu.
Tulips, hyacinths, daffodils and
pansies fill parks and gardens,
and the distinctive pink buds
of the Judas tree are seen along
the Bosphorus. Monuments
and museums are generally
uncrowded in spring, and
discounts are available at many
hotels. In May the popular son
et lumière shows outside the
Blue Mosque (see pp80–81)
begin and continue
until September. Colourful evening son et lumière show at the Blue Mosque
I S TA N B U L T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 47
Average daily hours of sunshine Sunshine Chart

One of Istanbul’s
Hours
attractions is its summer
10
sunshine – there are
8 about 2,500 hours each
year. From May to October
6 the city is bathed in light
well into the evening;
4 bursts of heavy rain,
however, are common in
2
high summer. Winter, by
0 contrast, is notoriously
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec deprived of sun.
Summer
In contrast to an all-too-brief
spring, the warm weather and
clear skies of summer can linger
on in Istanbul until November.
In July and August temperatures
soar. Rooftop and street dining
options can be considered
during this time. Popular sights
are packed with tourists
throughout the high season.
Picturesque locations outside
Istanbul may, on the other
hand, be overrun by locals.
At weekends, city dwellers trek
out to the Belgrade Forest and
Black Sea beaches (see p160) Silk Market in Bursa, which operates all year round
or to health clubs along the
Bosphorus. Those who can cherries, mulberries, peaches and Bursa Festival (June–July),
afford it flee to their Aegean apricots – are widely available. In Bursa Park. Music, folk
homes until autumn. July and August many shops dancing, plays, opera and
For those who stay behind have summer sales (see p211). shadow puppetry.
there is a strong summer Navy Day (1 July). Parades
culture. This includes a wild Events of old and new boats along
nightlife in hundreds of bars Silk Market (June–July), Bursa. the Bosphorus.
and night spots (see p209), and Special market for the sale of International Istanbul Jazz
enthusiastic support for many silk cocoons (see pp166–7). Festival (July), various venues.
arts festivals, which attract world- International Istanbul Music International event with a
famous performers. Look out, Festival (mid-June–July). devoted following.
too, for events taking place in Classical music, opera and International Sailing Races
historical buildings. You may be dance performed in historic (July). Regatta held at the
able to listen to classical music locations. Mozart’s Abduction Marmara Islands (see p171).
in Haghia Eirene (see p62) or from the Seraglio is staged Grease Wrestling (July),
enjoy a pop concert in the annually in Topkapı Palace Kırkpınar, Edirne. Wrestlers
Fortress of Europe on the (see pp56–61). smeared in olive oil grapple
Bosphorus (see with each other (see p156).
pp142–3). This is also Hunting Festival (3 days, late
the best time of year July), Edirne. Music, art and
for outdoor sports fishing displays.
such as hiking, horse Folklore and Music Festival
riding, water sports, (late July), Bursa. Ethnic dances
golf and parachuting. and crafts displays.
In summer, the Festival of Troy (August),
menu focuses more Çanakkale. Re-enactment of
on meat than fish, the tale of Troy (see p173).
but vegetables and Victory Day (30 August). Public
fresh fruit – such as holiday commemorating
honeydew melons, Scene from Abduction from the Seraglio, Topkapı Palace victory over Greece in 1922.
Average monthly rainfall Rainfall Chart

MM Inches
Winter is the wettest
150
season in Istanbul. Heavy
6
showers of rain can
120 5 sometimes continue into
April and May, making
4
90 spring seem shorter.
3 Sudden snowstorms
60 are not uncommon in
2
winter, but these are
30 1 short-lived and snowfalls
0 0 will usually melt away as
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec quickly as they come.
Turkish and Western aesthetics. Atatürk’s proclamation of the

Autumn Several public holidays reaffirm Republic in 1923 (see p33). The
Residents of Istanbul often Turkey’s commitment to Turkish flag adorns buildings
consider their city to be at its secularism, including Republic in the city.
best in autumn. As the summer Day in late October, during Akbank Jazz Festival (October),
heat loses its grip, chestnut which flags are hung from various venues. Jazz music
sellers appear on the streets (see balconies. The bridges (see p221).
p208), pumpkins are sold in the over the Bosphorus International Istanbul Fine Arts
markets, and fresh figs are eaten (see p140) are hung Biennial (October–November
in abundance. In the surrounding with particularly every two years, 2017, 2019).
countryside, cotton, wheat and huge flags. International and local
sunflowers are harvested. avant-garde artists
Migratory grouper and bonito exhibit work in historic
are among the tastiest types of locations such as
fish which are caught at this time Haghia Eirene and the
of year. Imperial Mint (see p62),
A popular beauty spot for its and the Basilica Cistern
array of autumn colours is Lake (see p78).
Abant, 200 km (125 miles) east Street-side roasting of seasonal chestnuts Anniversary of Death
of Istanbul. Meanwhile, bird- (10 November). A
watchers converge on the hills Events minute’s silence is observed at
overlooking the Bosphorus to Art International (September), 9:05am, the precise time of
view great flocks of migratory Haliç Congress Center on the Atatürk’s death in Dolmabahçe
birds heading for their warm Golden Horn (see p91). This event Palace (see pp130–31) in 1938.
wintering grounds in Africa symbolizes Istanbul’s newly Istanbul Marathon (November),
(see p143). acquired status in the provides participants the oppor-
On the cultural agenda is a international art circuit. tunity to run from Asia to Europe
world-class arts biennial and Republic Day (29 October). across the Bosphorus Bridge.
an antiques fair which blends Public holiday commemorating Tüyap Book Fair (October),
Tüyap Fair and Congress
Centre. Istanbul’s premier
publishing event showcases
prominent writers.
Efes Pilsen Blues Festival
(early November), selected
venues. Foreign and local
blues bands play in popular
music venues across the city.
Interior Design Fair (first week of
November), Çırağan Palace Hotel
Kempinski (see p125). Interior
designers and antique dealers
display upmarket wares in this
popular annual show.
Contemporary Istanbul
(November), Lütfi Kirdar
Convention Centre. Works by
domestic and international
Crowds gathering to celebrate Republic Day on 29 October artists are showcased here.
I S TA N B U L T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 49
Average monthly temperature Temperature Chart

The temperature of the
°C °F city rarely drops below
30 90 freezing in winter, and
even very cold snaps
25 80
seldom last longer than
20 70 three days. The heat of
the long, humid summer
15 60
is intensified by the lodos
10 50 wind, which blows in
from the Sea of Marmara.
5 40 However, the northerly
0 30 poyraz occasionally
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec provides a cooling breeze.
Winter
There are distinct bonuses to
visiting Istanbul in the winter,
when even major sights are
uncrowded, but be prepared
for rain, fog and, sometimes,
snow. Shops in the Akmerkez,
Galleria, Capitol and Carousel
malls (see p223) hold sales,
making the city a shopper’s
paradise for leather, woollens
and fashion.
Outside Istanbul, when
enough snow has fallen on
the mountains, the ski season
begins in Uludağ (see p171), View of Bebek on the Bosphorus (see p140) in winter
one of Turkey’s most important
winter sports resorts. Meanwhile founder of the famous Whirling including eating turkey,
baklava and cream cakes are Dervishes or the Mevlevi. decorating trees and partying.
consumed in the cosy cafés Christmas (late December). Strings of lights adorn the
along the Bosphorus and in Though Christmas Day is not main roads.
the old quarter of Beyoğlu a public holiday, major hotels Karadam Ski Festival (second
(see pp102–109). organize seasonal festivities. half of February), Uludağ Mountain.
New Year’s Day (1 January). Competitions organized by local
Public holiday incorporating radio stations and the Uludağ
European Christmas traditions Ski Instructors’ Association.
Muslim Holidays
The dates of Muslim holidays vary according to the phases of the
moon and therefore change from year to year. In the holy month
of Ramazan, Muslims refrain from eating and drinking between
dawn and dusk. Some restaurants are closed during the day, and
tourists should be discreet when eating in public. Straight after this
is the three-day Şeker Bayramı (Sugar Festival), when sweetmeats
are prepared. Two months later the four-day Kurban Bayramı
(Feast of the Sacrifice)
commemorates the
Koranic version of Abraham’s
Multitude of lights to welcome in the New sacrifice. This is the main
Year in Beyoğlu annual public holiday in
Turkey, and hotels, trains
and roads are packed.
Events Strict Muslims also
Mevlâna Festival (17–24 observe the festivals of
December), Mevlevi Lodge Regaip Kandili, Miraç
(see p106). Enthusiastic Istanbul Kandili, Berat Kandili
devotees perform special and Mevlid-i-Nebi. Festivities during Şeker Bayramı
dances in honour of the
A mesmeric view of Istanbul at sunset
ISTANBUL
AREA BY AREA
Seraglio Point 52–69

Sultanahmet 70–85
The Bazaar Quarter 86–101
Beyoğlu 102–109
Greater Istanbul 110–135
Three Guided Walks 174–179
I S TA N B U L A R E A B Y A R E A 53
SERAGLIO POINT
The hilly, wooded promontory that marks open to the public as a rambling museum,
the meeting point of the Golden Horn, the with lavish apartments and glittering
Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus occupies collections of jewels and other treasures.
a natural strategic position. In the Byzantine Originally, the palace covered almost the
era, monasteries and public buildings stood whole of the area with its gardens and
on this site. Today it is dominated by the pavilions. Part of the grounds have now
grandiose complex of buildings forming been turned into a public park. Adjacent
Topkapı Palace, the residence of the to it is the Archaeological Museums, a
Ottoman sultans and the women of the renowned collection of finds from Turkey
harem for 400 years. The palace is now and the Near East.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Palaces Restaurants p196
1 Topkapı Palace pp56–61 1 Café Mese 9 Orient Express Restaurant
2 Archaeological Museums pp64–7 2 Can Oba 10 Paşazade
8 Istanbul History of Science and 3 Hocapaşa Pidecisi 11 Sarnıç
Technology in Islam Museum 4 Imbat 12 Şehzade Erzurum
Churches 5 Karakol Cağ Kebabı
6 Konyalı
3 Haghia Eirene
7 Neyzade
Historic Buildings and 8 Olive Restaurant
Monuments
4 Fountain of Ahmet III
9 Sublime Porte Sirkeci
q Sirkeci Station
ES İ
Streets and Courtyards K E N NE D Y C A DD
5 Soğukçeşme Sokağı Sirkeci

6 Cafer Ağa Courtyard
Parks Sirkeci
M
CA UR İ S TA S Y O N A R K A S I S O K
7 Gülhane Park
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D D AD
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DAR ÜSS A D E S O K
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Turkish Baths
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0 metres 400
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0 yards 400
See also Street Finder maps 2,
3, 4 & 5
Interior of the Harem, Topkapı Palace For map symbols see back flap
54 I S TA N B U L A R E A B Y A R E A
Street-by-Street: The First

Courtyard of Topkapı
The juxtaposition of Ottoman palace walls,
intimately proportioned wooden houses and a soaring
Byzantine church lends plenty of drama to the First
Courtyard, the outer part of Topkapı Palace. This was once
a service area, housing the mint, a hospital, college and a 7 Gülhane Park
bakery. It was also the mustering point of the Janissaries Once a rose garden in the outer grounds
(see p129). Nowadays, the Cafer Ağa Courtyard and Büfe, of Topkapı Palace, the wooded Gülhane
Park provides welcome shade in which
just outside the courtyard wall, offer unusual settings for to escape from the heat of the city.
refreshments. Gülhane Park, meanwhile, is one of the few
shady open spaces in a city of monuments. Istanbul History of
Science and Technology
5 Soğukçeşme Sokağı in Islam Museum
Traditional, painted Ancient Orient
wooden houses line
Museum
this narrow street.
9 Sublime Porte
A Rococo gate stands in
place of the old Sublime
Porte, once the entrance
to (and symbol of ) the
Ottoman government. Entrance to
Gülhane Park
Alay
Pavilion
ALEMD
0 metres 75
AR
0 yards 75
C
A
D
Gülhane
tram stop
Key
Suggested route
S
O
Ğ
U
K
Ç
E
Ş
M
E
Büfes, tiny ornate S
O
kiosks, sell drinks K
and snacks.
6 Cafer Ağa Courtyard

Zeynep Sultan Mosque The cells of this former college,
Resembling a Byzantine church, ranged round a tranquil court-
this mosque was built in 1769 yard café, are now occupied by
by the daughter of Ahmet III, jewellers, calligraphers and other
Princess Zeynep. artisans selling their wares.
SERAGLIO POINT 55
2. Archaeological
Museums
Classical statues, dazzling SERAGLIO POINT
carved sarcophagi,
Turkish ceramics and other
treasures from all over the
former Ottoman Empire make
this complex one of the world’s SULTANAHMET
great collections of antiquities.
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 2, 3, 4 & 5
Tiled Kiosk The Executioner’s Fountain

Museum is so named because the
executioner washed his
(see p67)
hands and sword here after
a public beheading.
1. Topkapı Palace
For 400 years the Ottoman
sultans ruled their empire from
this vast palace. Its fine art collec-
tions, opulent rooms and leafy
courtyards are among the
Entrance to highlights of a visit to Istanbul.
Topkapı Palace
Topkapı Palace
ticket office
Imperial Mint
produced coins
from the Ottoman
era until 1967.
3 Haghia Eirene
The Byzantine church of Haghia
Eirene dates from the 6th century.
Unusually, it has never been
converted into a mosque.
Imperial
Gate 4 Fountain of Ahmet III
Built in the early 18th century, the
finest of Istanbul’s Rococo fountains
is inscribed with poetry likening it
to the fountains of paradise.
1 Topkapı Palace
Between 1459 and 1465, shortly after his conquest of
Constantinople (see p28), Mehmet II built Topkapı Palace
as his main residence. Rather than a single building, it
was conceived as a series of pavilions contained by four
enormous courtyards, a stone version of the tented
encampments from which the nomadic Ottomans
had emerged. Initially, the palace served as the seat of
government and housed a school in which civil servants
and soldiers were trained. In the 18th century, however,
the government was moved to the Sublime Porte (see
. Harem
p63). Sultan Abdül Mecit I abandoned Topkapı in 1853 in The labyrinth of exquisite rooms where
favour of Dolmabahçe Palace (see pp130–31). In 1924 the sultan’s wives and concubines lived
Topkapı was opened to the public as a museum. is open to visitors (see pp60–61).
KEY
1 The kitchens contain an

exhibition of ceramics, glass
and silverware (see p58).
2 Second courtyard
3 Harem ticket office Entrance to
Harem
4 Exhibition of arms and armour
(see p58)
5 The Gate of Felicity is also called
the Gate of the White Eunuchs.
6 Throne Room
7 Exhibition of imperial
costumes (see p58)
8 Third courtyard
9 Exhibition of clocks (see p59)
0 Pavilion of the Holy Mantle
(see p59)
q Circumcision Pavilion
w The fourth courtyard is a series
of gardens dotted with pavilions.
e Konyalı Restaurant (see p196)
Gate of Salutations:
entrance to
Divan
The viziers of the imperial council met in the palace
this chamber, sometimes watched
covertly by the sultan.
T O P K A P I PA L A C E 57
İftariye Pavilion
Standing between
the Baghdad and
Practical Information
Circumcision
Babıhümayun Cad. Map 3 F3.
pavilions, this
Tel (0212) 512 04 80. Open Apr–
canopied balcony
Oct: 9am–7pm; Nov–Mar:
provides views
9am–5pm Wed–Mon. & 0
down to the
Harem: Open 10am–4pm Wed–
Golden Horn.
Mon. 8 (book early). =
∑ topkapisarayi.gov.tr
Transport
v Sultanahmet.
Baghdad Pavilion
In 1639 Murat IV built this pavilion
to celebrate his capture of
Baghdad. It has
exquisite blue-
and-white
tilework.
Library of Ahmet III

Erected in 1719, the library
is an elegant marble
building. This ornamental
fountain is set into the wall
below its main entrance.
. Treasury
This 17th-century jewel-
encrusted jug is one of the
precious objects exhibited in
the former treasury (see p59).
Exploring the Palace’s Collections and several bows made by

sultans themselves (Beyazıt II
During their 470-year reign, the Ottoman sultans amassed was a particularly masterful
a glittering collection of treasures. After the foundation of craftsman). The bulky iron
the Turkish Republic in 1923 (see p33), this was nationalized weaponry used by European
crusaders look rudimentary
and the bulk of it put on display in Topkapı Palace. As well
by comparison. Also on view
as diplomatic gifts and articles commissioned from the are examples of 15th-century
craftsmen of the palace workshops, a large number of items Ottoman chain mail and
in the collection were brought back as booty from successful colourful shields. The shields
military campaigns. Many such trophies date from the have metal centres surrounded
massive expansion of the Ottoman Empire during the reign by closely woven straw painted
with flowers.
of Selim the Grim (1512–20), when Syria, Arabia and Egypt
were conquered.
Imperial Costumes
Ceramics, Glass industry at İznik (see p163). A collection of imperial
and Silverware Although there are no İznik costumes is displayed in the
pieces in the Topkapı Hall of the Campaign Pages,
The kitchens contain the collection, many of the tiles whose task was to look after
palace’s collection of glass, on the palace walls originated the royal wardrobe. It was a
ceramics and silver ware. The there. These clearly show the palace tradition that on the
silverware section is currently influence of designs used death of a sultan his clothes
closed for renovation. for Chinese blue-and-white were carefully folded and
Turkish and European pieces porcelain, such as cloud scrolls placed in sealed bags.
are overshadowed by the vast and stylized flowers. Much of As a result, it is possible to
display of Chinese and, to a the later porcelain, particularly see a perfectly preserved
lesser extent, Japanese the Japanese Imari ware, was kaftan once worn by Mehmet
porcelain. This was made specifically for the the Conqueror (see p28). The
brought to Turkey export market. The reforms of Sultan Mahmut II
along the Silk most obvious included a revolution in the
Route, the examples of this dress code (see p32). The end
overland are some plates of an era came as plain grey
trading link decorated with serge replaced the earlier
between the quotations luxurious silken textiles.
Far East and from the Koran.
Europe. A part of the
Topkapı’s kitchens, the old
collection of confectioners’ pantry,
Chinese porcelain is Japanese porcelain has been preserved as
the world’s second plate it would have been
best after China itself. when in use. On
The Chinese porcelain on display are huge cauldrons and
display spans four dynasties: other utensils wielded by the
the Sung (10–13th centuries), palace’s chefs to feed its 12,000
followed by the Yüan (13–14th residents and guests.
centuries), the Ming (14–17th
centuries) and the Ching (17–
20th centuries). Celadon, the Arms and Armour
earliest form of Chinese Taxes and tributes from all over
porcelain collected by the the empire were once stored in
sultans, was made to look this chamber, which was known
like jade, a stone believed by as the Inner Treasury. Straight
the Chinese to be lucky. The ahead as you enter is a series of
Ottomans prized it because horse-tail standards. Carried in
it was said to neutralize poison processions or displayed out-
in food. There are also several side tents, these proclaimed
exquisite blue-and-white the rank of their owners. Viziers
pieces, mostly of the Ming era. (see p31), for example, merited
Chinese aesthetics were three standards; the grand
an important influence on vizier, five; and the sultan’s
Ottoman craftsmen, particularly banner, nine.
in the creation of designs for The weaponry includes Sumptuous silk kaftan once worn by
their fledgling ceramics ornately embellished swords Mehmet the Conqueror
magnificent gift of the Topkapı

Treasury dagger. In a cabinet near the
Of all the exhibitions in the throne is an unusual relic: a case
palace, the Treasury’s collection containing bones said to be from
is the easiest to appreciate, the hand of St John the Baptist.
glittering as it does
with thousands
of precious and Miniatures and
semi-precious Manuscripts
stones. The only It is possible to display only a tiny
surprise is that fraction of Topkapı’s total collec-
there are so few tion of over 13,000 miniatures and A 17th-century watch made of gold,
women’s jewels here. manuscripts at any one time. This enamel and precious stones
Whereas the treasures section, which has been closed
of the sultans and for some time, includes highlights The clocks range from simple,
viziers were owned by such as the depictions of warriors weight-driven 16th-century
the state and reverted and fearsome creatures known as examples to an exquisite 18th-
to the palace on their Demons and Monsters in the Life of century English mechanism
deaths, those belonging Nomads, painted by Mohammed encased in mother-of-pearl and
to the women of the Siyah Qalem, possibly as early as featuring a German organ which
court did not. the 12th century. It is from this played tunes on the hour to the
In the first hall stands a Eastern tradition of miniature delight of the harem.
full, diamond-encrusted painting, which was also preva- Interestingly, the only male
suit of chain mail, designed lent in Mogul India and Persia, European eyewitness accounts
for Mustafa III (1757–74) that the ebullient Ottoman style of life in the harem were written
for ceremonial use. of miniatures developed. by the mechanics sent to
Diplomatic gifts include a Also on show are some fine service these instruments.
fine pearl statuette of a examples of calligraphy (see p97),
prince seated beneath including texts of the Koran,
a canopy, which was manuscripts in Turkish, Arabic, Pavilion of the
sent to Sultan Persian, Latin, Hebrew and Greek, Holy Mantle
The Abdül Aziz along with several firmans, or Some of the holiest relics of
Topkapı (1861–76) imperial decrees. Islam are displayed in these five
dagger from India. domed rooms, which are a place
The greatest of pilgrimage for Muslims. Most
pieces are in the second hall. of the relics found their way to
Foremost among these is the Istanbul as a result of the
Topkapı dagger (1741). This conquest by Selim “the Grim” (see
splendid object was p28) of Egypt and Arabia, and his
commissioned by the sultan assumption of the caliphate (the
from his own jewellers. It was leadership of Islam) in 1517.
intended as a present for the The most sacred treasure
Shah of Persia, but he died is the mantle once worn by the
before it reached him. Among Prophet Mohammed. Visitors
other exhibits here are a cannot actually enter the room
selection of the bejewelled in which it is stored; instead they
aigrettes (plumes) which added look into it from an antechamber
splendour to imperial turbans. through an open doorway. Night
In the third hall, the 86-carat and day, holy men continuously
Spoonmaker’s diamond is said chant passages from the Koran
to have been discovered in a over the gold chest in which the
rubbish heap in Istanbul in the mantle is stored. A stand in front
17th century, and bought from of the chest holds two of
a scrap merchant for three Cover of a Koran, decorated in Mohammed’s swords.
spoons. The gold-plated Bayram gold filigree work A glass cabinet in the
throne was given to Murat III anteroom contains hairs from
(see p34) by the Governor of the beard of the Prophet,
Egypt in 1574 and used for Clocks a letter written by him and an
state ceremonies until early European clocks given to, or impression of his footprint.
this century. bought by, various sultans form In the other rooms you can
It was the throne in the the majority of this collection, see some of the ornate locks
fourth hall, given by the Shah of despite the fact that there were and keys for the Kaaba (see p41)
Persia, which was to have been makers of clocks and watches in which were sent to Mecca by
acknowledged by the equally Istanbul from the 17th century. successive sultans.
Topkapı Palace: The Harem

The word Harem derives from the Arabic for The Harem
“forbidden”. A Harem was the residence of the
sultan’s wives, concubines and children, who
were guarded by black slave eunuchs. The
sultan and his sons were the only other men Third
allowed access to the Harem, which also courtyard
included the Cage, a set of rooms where the Second
sultan’s brothers were confined to avoid courtyard
destabilizing succession contests. Topkapı’s Locator Map
See main illustration of the palace on pp56–7
Harem was laid out by Sultan Murat III in the
late 16th century and is a labyrinth of
brilliantly tiled corridors and chambers.
. Paired Pavilions
These twin apart-
ments, built in the
17th century for the
crown prince, boast
superb İznik tiles
(see p163) and a
dome lined with
gilded canvas.
. Dining Room of
Ahmet III
A sumptuous array
of fruit and flowers
is painted on to
the walls of this
18th-century
chamber, which is
also known as the
Fruit Room.
Imperial Hall
The largest room in the Harem, this
hall was used for entertainments.
Against one wall stands a large
throne, from which the sultan would
view the proceedings.
Life in the Harem

The women of the Harem were
slaves, gathered from the furthest
corners of the Ottoman Empire and
beyond. Their dream was to become
a favourite of the sultan (see p30)
and bear him a son, which on
some occasions led to marriage.
Competition was stiff, however, for
at its height the Harem contained
over 1,000 concubines, many of
whom never rose beyond the service
of their fellow captives. The last A Western view of Harem life in a
women eventually left in 1909. 19th-century engraving
Salon of the Valide Sultana Key

The sultan’s mother, the valide sultana (see
Rooms open to the public
p31), was the most powerful woman in the
Harem and had some of the best rooms. Areas closed to the public
Exit
Entrance
KEY
1 The Salon of Murat III, built by because new sultans reputedly threw
Sinan (see p93), has fine tiled walls, a gold coins to their concubines here.
handsome fountain and a large hearth. 7 The Tower of Justice offers a Courtyard of the
2 The Library of Ahmet I is superb view of Topkapı’s rooftops Black Eunuchs
pleasantly light and airy, with and beyond. Marble columns line this
ivory-faced shutters. courtyard, which still has
8 Barracks of the black eunuchs
some old-fashioned,
3 Apartments and courtyard of 9 The Harem baths were where the wrought-iron lamps.
the favourites concubines bathed and relaxed.
4 Sultan’s bathroom 0 Courtyard of the concubines
5 Courtyard of the valide sultana q Valide sultana’s bedchamber
6 The Golden Way is so called w Valide sultana’s prayer room
2 Archaeological
Museums
See pp64–7.
3 Haghia Eirene
Aya İrini Kilisesi
First courtyard of Topkapı Palace.
Map 3 E4 (5 F3). Tel (0212) 522 17 50.
v Gülhane or Sultanahmet.
Open 9am–4pm Wed–Mon.
Though the present church

dates only from the 6th century,
it is at least the third building to One of the four elaborately decorated sides of the Fountain of Ahmet III
be erected on what is thought to
be the oldest site of Christian Byzantine emperors once lay the delicate Turkish Rococo
worship in Istanbul. Within a in their porphyry sarcophagi. style, with five small domes,
decade of the Muslim conquest Most have been moved to the mihrab-shaped niches and
of the city in 1453 (see p28) it Archaeological Museums. dizzying floral reliefs.
had been included within the Ottoman “fountains” do not
Topkapı Palace complex for use spout jets of water, but are
as an arsenal. Today the building, 4 Fountain of more like ornate public taps.
with its good acoustics, hosts Ahmet III They sometimes incorporated
concerts during the Istanbul a counter, or sebil, from which
Music Festival (see p47).
Ahmet III Çeşmesi refreshments would be served.
Inside are three fascinating Junction of İshak Paşa Cad & In this case, each of the
features that have not survived Babıhümayun Cad. Map 3 E4 (5 F4). fountain’s four walls is equip-
in any other Byzantine church in v Gülhane or Sultanahmet. ped with a tap, or çeşme, above
the city. The synthronon, the five a carved marble basin. Over
rows of built-in seats hugging Built in 1729, the most each tap is an elaborate
the apse, were occupied by beautiful of Istanbul’s calligraphic inscription by the
clergymen officiating during countless fountains survived 18th-century poet Seyit Vehbi
services. Above this looms a the violent deposition of Efendi. The inscription, in gold
simple black mosaic cross on a Sultan Ahmet III two years on a blue-green background, is
gold background, which dates later. Many of the other in honour of the fountain and
from the iconoclastic period (see monuments constructed by its founder. At each of the four
p22), when figurative images the sultan during his reign, corners there is a sebil backed
were forbidden. At the back which has become known as by three windows covered by
of the church is a cloister-like the Tulip Period (see p29), were ornate marble grilles. Instead of
courtyard where deceased destroyed. The fountain is in the customary iced water,
passers-by at this fountain
would have been offered
sherbets and flavoured waters
in silver goblets.
5 Soğukçeşme
Sokağı
Map 3 E4 (5 F3). v Gülhane.
Charming old wooden houses

line this narrow, sloping
cobbled lane (“the street of
the cold fountain”), which
squeezes between the outer
walls of Topkapı Palace and
the towering minarets of
Haghia Sophia. Traditional
houses like these were built
in the city from the late 18th
The apse of Haghia Eirene, with its imposing black-on-gold cross century onwards.
SERAGLIO POINT 63
The buildings in the lane

were renovated by the Turkish Ottoman Houses
Touring and Automobile Club The typical, smart town house of
(TTOK, see p245) in the 1980s. Of 19th-century Istanbul had a stone
these, nine buildings form the ground floor above which were
Ayasofya Konakları (see p187), one or two wooden storeys. The
a series of attractive pastel- building invariably sported a
painted guesthouses popular çikma, a section projecting out
with tourists. Another building over the street. This developed
has been converted by the from the traditional Turkish
TTOK into a library of historical balcony, which was enclosed in
the northern part of the country
writings on Istanbul, and archive
Restored Ottoman house on because of the colder climate.
of engravings and photographs
Soğukçeşme Sokağı Wooden lattice covers, or kafesler,
of the city. A Roman cistern over the windows on the upper
towards the bottom of the lane storeys ensured that the women of the house were able to watch life
has been converted into the on the street below without being seen themselves. Few wooden
Sarnıç restaurant (see p196). houses have survived. Those that remain usually owe their existence
to tourism and many have been restored as hotels. While the law
forbids their demolition, it is extremely hard to obtain insurance for
them in a city that has experienced many devastating fires.
Palace. Today it has a neglected models, which include a

air but it is still a shady place to planetarium and water clock,
stroll and it includes a couple of were built in Frankfurt’s Johann
interesting landmarks. Wolfgang Goethe University.
The Alay Köşkü (Procession
Kiosk), built into the Topkapı
Palace complex, enabled sultans 9 Sublime Porte
to keep an eye on who was Bab-ı Ali
Traditional calligraphy on sale in coming out of and going into Alemdar Cad. Map 3 E3 (5 E2).
Cafer Ağa Courtyard the Sublime Porte. At the far end v Gülhane.
of the park is the Goths’ Column,
6 Cafer Ağa a well-preserved 3rd-century Foreign ambassadors to
Courtyard victory monument, surrounded Ottoman Turkey were known
by clapboard teahouses. Its name as Ambassadors to the Sublime
Cafer Ağa Medresesi comes from the Latin inscription Porte, after this monumental
Caferiye Sok. Map 5 E3. Tel (0212) 513 on it which reads: “Fortune is gateway which once led into
18 43. v Gülhane or Sultanahmet. restored to us because of victory the offices and palace of the
Open 8:30am–8pm daily. over the Goths”. grand vizier. The institution of
Across Kennedy Caddesi, the the Sublime Porte filled an
This peaceful courtyard at the main road running along the important role in Ottoman
end of an alley was built in northeast side of the park, there society because it could often
1559 by Sinan (see p93) for the is a viewpoint over the busy provide an effective counter-
chief black eunuch (see p31) as waters where the Golden Horn balance to the whims of sultans.
a medrese (theological college, meets the Bosphorus. The Rococo gateway you
see p40). Sinan’s bust presides see today was built in the 1840s.
over the café tables in the Its guarded entrance now
courtyard. The former students’ 8 Istanbul History shields the offices of Istanbul’s
lodgings are now used to display of Science and provincial government.
a variety of craft goods typically
including jewellery, silk prints, Technology in
ceramics and calligraphy. Islam Museum
Istanbul Islam ve Teknoloji
Tarihi Müzesi
7 Gülhane Park Gülhane Park. Map 3 3E. v Gülhane.
Gülhane Parkı Open 9am–5pm Wed–Mon.
Alemdar Cad. Map 3 E3 (5 F2).
Housed in the former Topkapı
v Gülhane. Open daily. Museum:
Palace stables, this fine museum
Open 9am–4:30pm Wed–Mon. &
Library: Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat. is home to scale models of some
of the greatest inventions in the
Gülhane Park occupies what was Islamic world, between the 8th Rococo decoration on the roof of the
the lower grounds of Topkapı and 16th centuries. The intricate Sublime Porte
2 Archaeological Museums
Arkeoloji Müzeleri
Although this collection of antiquities was begun
only in the mid-19th century, provincial governors
were soon sending in objects from the length
and breadth of the Ottoman Empire. Today the
complex includes three different museums –
the Archaeological Museum (Arkeoloji Müzesi), the
Ancient Orient Museum (Eski Şark Eserleri Müzesi) . Alexander Sarcophagus
This fabulously carved marble tomb from
and Tiled Kiosk Museum (Çinili Köşk Müzesi). It has the late 4th century BC is thought to have
one of the world’s richest collections of classical been built for King Abdalonymos of Sidon.
artifacts, and also includes treasures from the pre- It is called the Alexander Sarcophagus
because Alexander the Great is depicted on
classical world. The main building was erected under
it winning a victory over the Persians.
the directorship of Osman Hamdi Bey (1881–1910),
to house his finds. This archaeologist, painter and
Sarcophagus of the
polymath discovered the exquisite sarcophagi in the Mourning Women
royal necropolis at Sidon in present-day Lebanon.
Key to Floorplan
Classical Archaeology The porticoes of the museum
take their design from the
Children’s Museum
4th-century BC Sarcophagus
Thracian, Bithynian and of the Mourning Women.
Byzantine Collections
Istanbul Through the Ages
Anatolia and Troy
Anatolia’s Neighbouring
Cultures
Tiled Kiosk Museum
Ancient Orient Museum
Non-exhibition space
Outdoor café
Gallery Guide
The 20 galleries of the main building house the
. Karaman Mihrab Archaeological Museum’s important collection
This blue, richly tiled mihrab of classical antiquities. The four-storey wing has
(see p40) comes from the city of displays on the archaeology of Istanbul and
Karaman in southeast Turkey, nearby regions, and includes the Children’s
which was the capital of the Museum. There are two other museums within
Karamanid state from 1256–1483. the grounds: the Tiled Kiosk Museum, the oldest
It is the most important artistic building in the complex showcasing Turkish tiles
relic of that culture. and ceramics, and the Ancient Orient Museum.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUMS 65
Geometric Period Cypriot Jug

Stylized fish decorate this jug, in a design
typical of the Geometric Period (1050
–750 BC), when a vibrant ceramics
Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu.
culture flourished on Cyprus.
Map 3 E3 (5 F2). Tel (0212) 520
77 40. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm;
Stairs to main Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
= ∑ istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr
building
Transport
v Gülhane.
Third floor
Second floor
Mosaic Icon of the

Presentation
Dating from the 6th–7th
centuries AD, this battered
panel from Kalenderhane
Mosque (see p94) is the only
religious figurative mosaic to
have survived Byzantium’s
iconoclastic period (see p22).
First floor
Ground floor
Porphyry Sarcophagi
These monumental
Statue of purple sarcophagi
Marsyas (4th–5th centuries AD)
are thought to have
held the bodies of
Statue and bust of some of the early
Alexander the Great Byzantine emperors.
. Treaty of Kadesh
This tablet constitutes
the world’s earliest
surviving peace treaty,
agreed between the
Egyptians and Hittites
in 1269 BC. Among
its many clauses are
provisions for the return
Entrance of political refugees.
Exploring the Archaeological Thracian, Bithynian and

Museums Byzantine Collections
This interesting gallery on
This collection spans over 5,000 years, from figurines of the the ground floor of the New
Mother Goddess modelled in the 3rd millennium BC to Turkish Building wing displays religious
pottery thrown in the 19th century. To cover everything in and other artifacts from the
ancient civilizations of Thrace
one visit is impossible. Visitors with little time should not miss
and Bithynia, and from
the breathtaking sarcophagi from the royal necropolis at Sidon. Byzantium (see pp22–27) –
To learn more about the history of Istanbul itself you should including a statue of Byzantine
head for the gallery on the first floor of the New Building wing. Emperor Valens. This section
Youngsters may enjoy the displays in the Children’s Museum. of the musuem also covers
Some of the galleries are, however, closed for renovations. the architecture of the
ancient world.
condition, showing traces of

Classical Archaeology their original colouring, though
Monumental Bes, the ancient the metal weapons of the
Egyptian god, greets visitors at soldiers and hunters have
the door to the main building. been lost.
Hugely popular in the 1st–3rd The Sarcophagus of
centuries, Bes’ comically the Mourning Women is
grotesque appearance was an thought to have been
effective deterrent for made for King Straton
evil spirits. Rooms 8 (374–358 BC), who was Bronze head of a snake
and 9 contain the known for his fondness for from the Serpentine Column
highlights of the women. The grief-stricken
museum’s entire females may have been
collection: a group members of his harem. Istanbul through
of sarcophagi un- Rooms 14–20 contain some the Ages
earthed in 1887 at remarkable statues. Among them With a series of well-chosen
Sidon (in present- is a Roman copy of a 3rd-century pieces and explanatory texts
day Lebanon). BC statue of Marsyas, depicting in Turkish and English, this
Marble bust These are thought the satyr about to be flayed after gallery brilliantly chronicles
of Emperor to have been daring to challenge Apollo’s Istanbul’s archaeological past
Augustus made for a line of musical ability. A statue and bust from the Neolithic to the
Phoenician kings of Alexander the Great (3rd–2nd Byzantine period.
who ruled in the 6th–4th centuries BC) show the The rare Mosaic Icon of
centuries BC. Their decoration conqueror as the perfect hero, the Presentation (c.AD 600)
vividly shows the transition with a meditative expression on originally adorned the
from Egyptian to Greek his face. Room 18 contains realistic Kalenderhane Mosque (see
influence in the art of the busts of Roman emperors. p94). One of the three snakes’
Near East at that time. heads from the Serpentine
The latest and finest of them Column, which has stood
is the so-called Alexander Children’s Museum headless in the Hippodrome
Sarcophagus (late 4th century Special low cabinets are (see p82) since the 18th
BC). Alexander the Great features used in this part of the century, is also displayed
in two decorative, high-relief museum, which is designed here. Look out too for a
friezes on the longest sides. for visiting schoolchildren. section of the iron chains
These show a battle scene and Paper and coloured crayons are that the Byzantines hung
a hunting scene. The friezes to hand in a bid to stimulate across the Golden Horn to
survive in almost perfect future archaeologists. stop hostile ships (see p25).
Frieze showing the battle of Issus (333 BC), on the side panel of the Alexander Sarcophagus
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUMS 67
potteries, the hub of Turkish

ceramics production (see p163).
With the decline in quality of İznik
ceramics in the late 16th century,
other centres took over. One of
these, Kütahya, also produced
pieces of beauty and high quality
(rooms 5 and 6).
Ancient Orient Museum

Although this collection
contains antiquities of great
Reconstruction of a mausoleum discovered at Palmyra in Syria rarity and beauty from the
Egyptian and Hittite cultures,
plump, naked temple boys pride of place goes to the
Anatolia and Troy (3rd century BC). They are artifacts from the early
One side of this narrow, long thought to represent boy pros- civilizations of Mesopotamia
hall chronicles the history titutes at temples to Aphrodite, (present-day Iraq).
of Anatolia (the Asiatic part the Greek goddess of love. The monumental glazed
of modern Turkey) from the Among the Syrian exhibits brick friezes from Babylon’s
Palaeolithic era to the Iron are funerary reliefs, the Gezer main entrance, the Ishtar Gate,
Age. It culminates with a room Calendar (925 BC) – a lime- (rooms 3 and 9) date from the
devoted to the Phrygian cul- stone tablet bearing the oldest reign of Nebuchadnezzar II
ture, which centred on the city known Hebrew inscription – (605–562 BC), when the capital
of Gordion. The highlight is a and a reconstruction of a 1st– of Babylon experienced its final
recreation of an 8th-century BC 3rd-century mausoleum from flowering. The elegant, 30 kg
royal tomb, which was housed the trading oasis of Palmyra. (65 lb) duck-shaped weight in
beneath a tumulus in a juniper- room 4 comes from a much
wood chamber. As well as earlier Babylonian temple
cooking utensils, the king was (c.2000 BC).
buried with furniture made of Room 5 contains some of the
oak, box, yew and juniper. earliest known examples
The other side of the of writing, in the form of
gallery traces the exca- cuneiform inscriptions on
vations of nine different clay tablets, dating from
civilizations at Troy (see 2700 BC. The famous
p173), from 3000 BC to Treaty of Kadesh (room 7),
the time of Christ. On concluded around 1269
display are a few pieces 16th-century İznik tiled lunette in the Çinili Pavilion BC between the Egyptian
of the gold hoard known and Hittite empires, was
as the Schliemann originally written on a
treasure, after the archaeologist Tiled Kiosk Museum sheet of silver. The one in
who first discovered it in the Apart from carpets, the most this collection is a Hittite copy.
late 19th century. Most of the distinctive Turkish art form is The treaty includes many
pieces were smuggled out of ceramics. This is particularly seen sophisticated clauses, including
Turkey, however, and are now in in the sheets of tiles used to one providing for the return of a
museums around the world. decorate the walls of mosques political refugee, who was “not
and pavilions such as the Çinili to be charged with his crime,
Pavilion in which the Tiled Kiosk nor his house and wives and his
Anatolia’s Neighbouring Museum is located, where the children be harmed”.
Cultures entrance archway is
This long gallery is also divided plastered with
in two, with one side devoted geometric and
to Cyprus and the other to calligraphic tiles.
Syria-Palestine. The Cypriot In the main room
collection was assembled by there is an exquisite
the joint American and Russian early 15th-century
consul to Cyprus, Luigi Palma tiled mihrab from
di Cesnola, who systematically central Anatolia.
looted its tombs from 1865–73. Rooms 3 and 4
Apart from some beautiful contain tiles and
pots, the most interesting mosque lamps from
objects are the figures of the famed İznik Glazed frieze of a bull from Ishtar Gate, Babylon
0 Cağaloğlu Baths entirely separate sections. In

Cağaloğlu Hamamı the Cağaloğlu Baths the men’s
Prof Kazım İsmail Gürkan Cad 34,
and women’s sections are at
Cağaloğlu. Map 3 E4 (5 D3). right angles to one another and
Tel (0212) 522 24 24. v Sultanahmet. entered from different streets.
Open 8am–10pm daily. Each consists of three parts: a
∑ cagalogluhamami.com.tr camekan, a soğukluk and the
main bath chamber or hararet,
Among the city’s more which centres on a massive
sumptuous Turkish baths, the octagonal massage slab.
ones in Cağaloğlu were built The Cağaloğlu Baths are
by Sultan Mahmut I in 1741. popular with foreign visitors
The income from them was because the staff are happy to
designated for the maintenance explain the procedure. Even if
of Mahmut’s library in Haghia you do not want to sweat it out,
Sophia (see pp74–7). you can still take a look inside
The city’s smaller baths have the entrance corridor and Sirkeci Station, final destination of the
different times at which men camekan of the men’s section. historic Orient Express
and women can use the same Here you will find a small display
facilities. But in larger baths, of Ottoman bathing regalia, running into Istanbul for a
such as this one, there are including precarious wooden year by then. The design, by
clogs once worn by women on the German architect Jasmund,
what would frequently be their successfully incorporates
only outing from the confines of features from the many different
the home. You can also sit and architectural traditions of
have a drink by the fountain in Istanbul. Byzantine alternating
the peaceful camekan. stone and brick courses are
combined with a Seljuk-style
monumental recessed portal
q Sirkeci Station and Muslim horseshoe arches
Sirkeci Garı around the windows.
The station is now closed
Sirkeci İstasyon Cad, Sirkeci. Map 3 E3
(5 E1). Tel (0212) 527 00 50 or 520 65
to trains but is still a stop on
75. @ Sirkeci. Open daily. the Marmaray Metro line,
which links Europe with Asia
This magnificent railway station via the Bosphorus tunnel.
was built to receive the long- The station building houses
anticipated Orient Express from the Orient Express Restaurant
Europe. It was officially opened (see p196), as well as a small,
Corridor leading into the Cağaloğlu Baths, in 1890, even though the free railway museum (open
built by Mahmut I luxurious train had been 9am–5pm Tue–Sat).
The World-Famous Orient Express

The Orient Express made its first run from Paris to Istanbul
in 1889, covering the 2,900-km (1,800-mile) journey in
three days. Both Sirkeci Station and the Pera Palas Hotel
(see p106) in Istanbul were built especially to receive its
passengers. The wealthy and often distinguished
passengers of “The Train of Kings, the King of Trains”
did indeed include kings among the many presidents,
politicians, aristocrats and actresses. King Boris III of
Bulgaria even made a habit of taking over from the
driver of the train when he travelled on it through
his own country.
A byword for exoticism and romance, the train was
associated with the orientalist view of Istanbul as a
treacherous melting pot of diplomats and arms dealers.
It inspired no fewer than 19 books – Murder on the Orient
Express by Agatha Christie and Stamboul Train by Graham
Greene foremost among them – six films and one piece of
music. During the Cold War standards of luxury crashed,
though a service of sorts, without even a restaurant car, A 1920s poster for the Orient Express, showing a
continued twice weekly to Istanbul until 1977. romantic view of Istanbul
SERAGLIO POINT 69
Turkish Baths
No trip to Istanbul is complete without an hour or two spent in a Turkish bath
(hamam), which will leave your whole body feeling rejuvenated. Turkish baths
differ little from the baths of ancient Rome, from which they derive, except there
is no pool of cold water to plunge into at the end.
A full service will entail a period of relaxation in the steam-filled hot room, punctuated
by bouts of vigorous soaping and massaging. There is no time limit, but allow at least
an hour and a half. Towels and soap will be provided, but you can take toiletries with
you. Four historic baths located in the Old City – Çemberlitaş (see p83), Hürrem Sultan
Hamamı (see p78), Cağaloğlu (illustrated below) and the Süleymaniye Hamamı – are
used to catering for tourists. Most luxury hotels have their own baths (see pp182).
Choosing a Service
Services, detailed in a price list at
the entrance, range from a self-
service option to a luxury body
scrub, shampoo and massage.
The camekan (entrance hall) is

a peaceful internal courtyard near
the entrance of the building. Bathers
change clothes in cubicles surrounding
it. The camekan is also the place to relax Changing Clothes
with a cup of tea after bathing. Before changing you will be given
a cloth (peştemal), to wrap around
Corridor from you, and a pair of slippers for
street walking on the hot, wet floor.
Small, star-like windows

Basin and tap for piercing the domes
washing
Cağaloğlu Baths The soğukluk (intermediate

The opulent, 18th-century Turkish room) is a temperate passage In the hararet (hot
between the changing room and room), the main room
baths at Cağaloğlu have separate,
the hararet. You will be given dry of the Turkish bath, you
identical sections for men and women. towels here on your way back to are permitted to sit
The men’s section is shown here. the camekan. and sweat in the steam
for as long as you like.
The Exfoliating Body Scrub

In between steaming, you (or the staff
at the baths) scrub your body briskly
with a coarse, soapy mitt (kese).
The Body Massage

A marble plinth (göbek taşı)
occupies the centre of the hot
room. This is where you will
have your pummelling full-
body massage.
SULTANAHMET
Istanbul’s two principal monuments face Blue Mosque marks the site of the
each other across an area of gardens Hippodrome, a chariot-racing stadium built
known informally as Sultanahmet Square. by the Romans in around AD 200. On the
This part of the city gets its name from other side of the Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet
Sultan Ahmet I, who built the Blue Mosque. slopes down to the Sea of Marmara in a
Opposite is Haghia Sophia, an outstanding jumble of alleyways. Here, traditional-style
example of early Byzantine architecture, and Ottoman wooden houses have been built
still one of the world’s most remarkable over the remains of the Great Palace of the
churches. A neat oblong square next to the Byzantine emperors.
Sights at a Glance
Mosques and Churches Restaurants pp197–8
1 Haghia Sophia pp74–7 1 Ahırkapı Balıkçısı 17 Seasons Restaurant
7 Blue Mosque pp80–81 2 Albura Kathisma 18 Sultanahmet Fish House
r Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Mosque 3 Aloran Café & Restaurant 19 Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi
t SS Sergius and Bacchus’ Church 4 Amedros 20 Tria Elegance
Museums 5 Balıkçı Sabahattin 21 Vonalı Celal
6 Doy Doy
2 Carpet Museum
7 Dubb
6 Mosaic Museum
8 Faros Hotel Restaurant
8 Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts
9 Fuego Restaurant
0 Marmara University Museum
10 Giritli Restaurant
of the Republic
11 Karışma Sen Meyhane
Squares and Courtyards 12 Khorasani
4 Istanbul Handicrafts Centre 13 Köfteci Ramiz
9 Hippodrome 14 Mozaik Restaurant
15 Patara Restaurant
Historic Buildings and Monuments
16 Port Shield
3 Basilica Cistern
See also Street Finder
5 Baths of Roxelana
maps 3 & 5
q Cistern of 1001 Columns
w Tomb of Sultan Mahmut II
e Constantine’s Column PR
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The Blue Mosque in the luminescent glow of the setting sun For map symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Sultanahmet Square

Two of Istanbul’s most venerable monuments, the Blue
Mosque and Haghia Sophia, face each other across a
leafy square, informally known as Sultanahmet Square
(Sultanahmet Meydanı), next to the Hippodrome of
Byzantium. Also in this fascinating historic quarter are a
few museums, including the Mosaic Museum, built over
part of the old Byzantine Great Palace (see pp84–5), and
the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts. No less divert-
ing than the cultural sights of this pedestrianized area Tomb of Sultan Ahmet I
are the cries of the simit (bagel) hawkers and carpet Stunning 17th-century İznik tiles
sellers, and the chatter of children selling postcards. (see p163) adorn the inside of this
tomb, which is part of the outer
complex of the Blue Mosque.
Sultanahmet
tram stop
7 . Blue Mosque Firuz Ağa

Towering above Mosque Dİ
Sultanahmet Square are the VA
N
six beautiful minarets of this Fountain
world-famous mosque. It of Kaiser
was built in the early 17th Wilhelm II
century for Ahmet I.
Egyptian
Obelisk
8 Museum of Turkish and
Islamic Arts K
O
Yurts, used by Turkey’s nomadic S
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peoples, and rugs are included in N
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this impressive collection. D
Y
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Brazen Column D
Y
E
M
T
A
TA
V
U
K
Serpentine
H
A
Column
N
E
SO
K
K
SO
N
RU
9 Hippodrome 6 Mosaic Museum TO
This stadium was the city’s Hunting scenes are one
focus for more than 1,000 years of the common subjects
before it fell into ruin. Only a few that can be seen in some
sections, such as the central line of the mosaics from the
of monuments, remain. Great Palace.
S U LTA N A H M E T 73
3 . Basilica Cistern THE BAZAAR SERAGLIO

QUARTER POINT
This marble Medusa head is one of two
classical column bases found in the
Basilica Cistern. The cavernous cistern
dates from the reign of Justinian
(see p22) in the 6th century.
SULTANAHMET
A stone pilaster next to

the remains of an Ottoman Locator Map
water tower is all that See Street Finder maps 3 & 5
survives of the Milion (see
p85), a triumphal gateway. 2 Carpet Museum
Housed in the soup kitchens of
S
Haghia Sophia, this museum
O
Ğ
displays fine carpets woven
U
K
D
between the 14th and 20th
Ç
CA
YE
centuries.
E
K
O
Ș
RE
M
R
E
DA
İY
BA
S
R
O
E
EM
TA
K
A
C
N
AL
CA
D
YO
LU
CA
D
M
A YD
E
YA A
D
CA 1 . Haghia Sophia
S NI
L
KA
O
The supreme church of

SA
F SO
Byzantium is over 1,400 years

YA K
B A
KA old but has survived in a
remarkably good state. Inside
it are several glorious
M
İM
figurative mosaics.
A
R
ME
HME T AĞA
5 Baths of Roxelana
Sinan (see p93) designed these
baths in the mid-16th century. In
Yeşil Ev Hotel the past, the building has housed
(see p186) a carpet shop, but it has been
CA
restored, and reopened in 2012

D
as the Hürrem Sultan Hamamı.
4 Istanbul Handicrafts Centre

Visitors have a rare opportunity
here to observe Turkish craftsmen
practising a range of skills.
Arasta Bazaar
Quality carpets, ceramics and
other handicraft items are a
major draw in this upmarket
bazaar. With two long rows
0 metres 75 of shops on either side of a
lane, the bazaar was once
0 yards 75
a stable yard.
1 Haghia Sophia
Ayasofya
The “church of holy wisdom,” Haghia Sophia
is among the world’s greatest architectural
achievements. More than 1,400 years old, it
stands as a testament to the sophistication of
the 6th-century Byzantine capital. The vast
edifice was built over two earlier churches and
inaugurated by Emperor Justinian in 537.
In the 15th century the Ottomans Print of Haghia Sophia from the mid-19th century
converted it into a mosque: the
minarets, tombs and fountains
date from this period. To help
support the structure’s great
weight, the exterior has been
buttressed on numerous
occasions, which has partly
obscured its original shape.
Three mausoleums at the site
are also open to the public.
Byzantine Frieze
Among the ruins of the
monumental entrance to
the earlier Haghia Sophia
(dedicated in AD 415) is
this frieze of sheep,
symbolizing the apostles.
Historical Plan of Haghia Sophia

Nothing remains of the first 4th-century church
on this spot, but there are traces of
the second one from the
5th century, which
burnt down in AD 532.
Earthquakes have taken
their toll on the third
structure, which has been
strengthened and Entrance
added to many times.
Key
5th-century church
6th-century church
Ottoman additions
HAGHIA SOPHIA 75
. Nave VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Visitors cannot fail to be
staggered by this vast space Practical Information
which is covered by a huge Ayasofya Sultanahmet Meydanı 1.
dome reaching to a height Map 3 E4 (5 F3). Tel (0212) 528 45
of 56 m (184 ft). 00. Open 9am–7pm (5pm Nov–
Mar). & = 7 ground floor only.
Transport
v Sultanahmet.
. The Mosaics
The church’s splendid
Byzantine mosaics include
this one at the end of the
south gallery. It depicts
Christ flanked by Emperor
Constantine IX and his
wife, the Empress Zoe.
KEY
1 Outer Narthex
2 Buttresses
3 Inner Narthex
4 Imperial Gate
5 The galleries were originally
used by women during services.
6 Kürsü (see p41)
7 Calligraphic roundel
8 Seraphims adorn the penden-
tives at the base of the dome.
9 Sultan’s loge
0 Brick minaret
q Müezzin mahfili (see p40)
w The Coronation Square served
for the crowning of emperors.
e Library of Sultan Mahmut I
r The Baptistry, part of the
Exit 6th-century church, now serves as
the tomb of two sultans.
t The mausoleum of Murat III
was used for his burial in 1599. Murat
had by that time sired 102 children.
. Ablutions
y Mausoleum of Selim II
Fountain
The oldest of the three mausoleums
Built around 1740,
was completed in 1577 to the plans
this fountain is an
of Sinan (see p93). Its interior is
exquisite example
entirely decorated with İznik tiles
of Turkish Rococo
(see p163).
style. Its projecting
roof is painted with u Mausoleum of Mehmet III
floral reliefs.
Exploring Haghia Sophia

Designed as an earthly mirror of the heavens, the interior
of Haghia Sophia succeeds in imparting a truly celestial
feel. The artistic highlights are a number of glistening
figurative mosaics – remains of the decoration that once
covered the upper walls but which has otherwise mostly
disappeared. These remarkable works of Byzantine art
date from the 9th century or later, after the iconoclastic
era (see p22). Some of the patterned mosaic ceilings,
however, particularly those adorning the narthex and
the neighbouring Vestibule of the Warriors, are part of
the cathedral’s original 6th-century decoration.
when the church was

Ground Floor converted into a mosque.
The first of the surviving The mihrab 2, the Interior as it looked after restoration in the 19th century
Byzantine mosaics can be seen niche indicating the
over the Imperial Gate. This is direction of Mecca, was these is adjacent to the
now the public entrance into installed in the apse of the minbar. The patterned marble
the church, although previously church directly opposite the coronation square 6 next to it
only the emperor and his entrance. The sultan’s loge 3, marks the supposed site of the
entourage were allowed to on the left of the mihrab as you Byzantine emperor’s throne, or
pass through it. The mosaic face it, was built by the Fossati omphalos (centre of the world).
shows Christ on a throne with brothers. These Italian-Swiss Nearby, in the south aisle, is the
an emperor kneeling beside architects undertook a major library of Mahmut I 7, which
him 1 and has been dated restoration of Haghia Sophia for was built in 1739 and is entered
to between 886 and 912. The Sultan Abdül Mecit in 1847–9. by a decorative bronze door.
emperor is thought to be To the right of the mihrab is Across the nave, between
Leo VI, the Wise (see p23). the minbar 4, or pulpit, which two columns, is the 17th-
The most conspicuous was installed by Murat III (1574– century marble preacher’s
features at ground level in 95). He also erected the four throne 8, the contribution
the nave are those added by müezzin mahfilis 5, marble of Murat IV (1623–40). Behind it
the Ottoman sultans after the platforms for readers of the is one of several maqsuras 9.
conquest of Istanbul in 1453, Koran (see p40). The largest of These low, fenced platforms
were placed beside walls and
pillars to provide places for
Floorplan of Haghia Sophia Apse elders to sit, listen and read
the Koran.
Upper walls and domes In the northwestern
Galleries and western corners of the
Upper walls church are two marble urns 0,
Ground floor and domes thought to date from the
Hellenistic or early Byzantine
North period. A rectangular pillar
gallery behind one of the urns, the
pillar of St Gregory the
West South
Miracle-Worker q, is believed
gallery gallery
to have healing powers. As you
Ramp to Apse leave the church you pass
gallery through the Vestibule of the
Warriors, so called because
the emperor’s bodyguards
would wait here for him
when he came to worship.
Look behind you as you enter
it at the wonderful mosaic of
Nave
the Virgin with Constantine
and Justinian w above the
Entrance door. It shows Mary seated on a
Vestibule of the throne holding the infant Jesus
Outer narthex Narthex
Warriors and flanked by two of the
HAGHIA SOPHIA 77
greatest emperors of the Byzantine Empress’s

city. Constantine, on her left, throne r.
presents her with the city of There is much more
Constantinople, while Justinian to see in the south gallery.
offers her Haghia Sophia. This You begin by passing
was made long after either through the so-called
of these two emperors lived, Gates of Heaven and Hell
probably in the 10th century, t, a marble doorway of
during the reign of Basil II (see which little is known
p23). Visitors exit the church except that it predates
by the door that was once the Ottoman conquest
reserved for the emperor due (see p28).
to its proximity to the Great Around the corner to
Palace (see pp84–5). the right after passing
through this dooorway
is the Deësis Mosaic y
showing the Virgin Mary
and John the Baptist with
Christ Pantocrator (the
All-Powerful). Set into the
floor opposite it is the Mosaic depicting Gabriel, on the lower wall of the apse
tomb of Enrico Dandalo,
the Doge of Venice responsible
for the sacking of Constantinople Upper Walls and Domes
in 1204 (see p26). The apse is dominated by a
In the last bay of the southern large and striking mosaic
gallery there are two more showing the Virgin with the
mosaics. The right-hand infant Jesus on her lap p. Two
one of these is of the Virgin other mosaics in the apse show
holding Christ, flanked by the archangels Gabriel a and,
Emperor John II Comnenus opposite him, Michael, but only
and Empress Irene u. The fragments of the latter now
Figure of Christ, detail from the Deësis other shows Christ with remain. The unveiling of these
Mosaic in the south gallery Emperor Constantine IX mosaics on Easter Sunday 867
Monomachus and Empress was a triumphal event
Zoe i. The faces of the celebrating victory over the
Galleries emperor and empress have iconoclasts (see p23).
A ramp leads from the ground been altered. Three mosaic portraits of
floor to the north gallery. Here, Eight great wooden saints s adorn niches in the
on the eastern side of the great plaques o bearing calligraphic north tympanum and are visible
northwest pier, you will find inscriptions hang over the nave from the south gallery and the
the 10th-century mosaic of at the level of the gallery. An nave. From left to right they
Emperor Alexander holding a addition of the Fossati brothers, depict: St Ignatius the Younger,
skull e. On the west face of the they bear the names of Allah, St John Chrysostom and
same pier is a medieval drawing the Prophet Mohammed, the St Ignatius Theophorus.
of a galleon in full sail. The only first four caliphs and Hasan and In the four pendentives (the
point of interest in the western Hussein, two of the Prophet’s triangular, concave areas at the
gallery is a green marble disk grandsons who are revered base of the dome) are mosaics
marking the location of the as martyrs. of six-winged seraphim d.
The ones in the eastern pen-
dentives date from 1346–55,
but may be copies of much
older ones. Those on the
western side are 19th-century
imitations that were added by
the Fossati brothers.
The great dome f itself
is decorated with Koranic
inscriptions. It was once covered
in golden mosaic and the tinkling
sound of pieces dropping to
the ground was familiar to
visitors until the building’s
Mosaic of the Virgin with Emperor John II Comnenus and Empress Irene 19th-century restoration.
only about two thirds of

it is visible, the rest having
been bricked up in the 19th
century. Water reached the
cistern, which held about
100 million litres (22 million
gal), from the Belgrade Forest,
20 km (12 miles) north of
Istanbul, via the Valens
Aqueduct (see p91).
4 Istanbul
Handicrafts Centre
Mehmet Efendi Medresesi
Kabasakal Cad 5, Sultanahmet.
Map 3 E4 (5 E4). Tel (0212) 517 67 82.
v Sultanahmet. Open 9:30am–
5:30pm daily.
If you are interested in Turkish

The cavernous interior of the Byzantine Basilica Cistern craftwork, this former Koranic
college is worth a visit. You can
2 Carpet Museum on the other side of the Hippo- watch skilled artisans at work:
Halı Müzesi drome (see p82). For a century they may be binding a book,
after the conquest (see p26), executing an elegant piece of
Babıhümayan Cad. Map 3 E5 (5 E5)
the Ottomans did not know of calligraphy or painting glaze
Open 9am–noon, 1–5pm
the cistern’s existence. It was onto ceramics. Items produced
Mon–Fri. ∑ halimuzesi.com
rediscovered after people were here are all for sale.
This beautifully constructed found to be collecting water,
museum is housed in the soup and even fish, by lowering
kitchens built around 300 years buckets through holes in 5 Baths of Roxelana
back, following the conversion their basements.
Hürrem Sultan Hamamı
of the Haghia Sophia into the Visitors tread walkways to
Aya Sofya Mosque. It has displays the mixed sounds of classical Ayasofya Meydanı, Sultanahmet.
of fine carpets, mainly Turkish, music and dripping water. The Map 3 E4 (5 E4). Tel (0212) 517 35 35.
v Sultanahmet. Open 8am–10pm
woven between the 14th and cistern’s roof is held up by 336
daily. ∑ ayasofyahamami.com
20th centuries. The exhibits columns, each over 8 m (26ft)
are well labelled. There is also high. The original structure
plenty of useful information covered a total area of 9,800 These baths were built in 1556
available on weaving processes sq m (105,000 sq ft) but today for Süleyman the Magnificent
and the symbolism of the
motifs featured on the rugs.
Roxelana
Süleyman the Magnificent’s
3 Basilica Cistern power-hungry wife Roxelana
(1500–58, Hürrem Sultan in
Yerebatan Sarayı Turkish), rose from being a
13 Yerebatan Cad, Sultanahmet. concubine in the imperial harem
Map 3 E4 (5 E4). Tel (0212) 522 12 to become his chief wife, or first
59. v Sultanahmet. Open 9am– kadın (see p30). Thought to be of
7pm daily. Russian origin, she was also the
first consort permitted to reside
This vast underground water within the walls of Topkapı Palace
(see pp56–61).
cistern, a beautiful piece of
Roxelana would stop at
Byzantine engineering, is the
nothing to get her own way.
most unusual tourist attraction When Süleyman’s grand vizier and
in the city. Although there may friend from youth, İbrahim Paşa,
have been an earlier, smaller became a threat to her position, she persuaded the sultan to have
cistern here, this cavernous him strangled. Much later, Roxelana performed her coup de grâce. In
vault was laid out under Just- 1553 she persuaded Süleyman to have his handsome and popular
inian in 532, mainly to satisfy heir, Mustafa, murdered by deaf mutes to clear the way for her own
the growing demands of son Selim (see p28) to inherit the throne.
6 Mosaic 8 Museum of
Museum Turkish and
Mozaik Müzesi Islamic Arts
Arasta Çarşısı, Sultanahmet. Türk ve İslam
Map 3 E5 (5 E5). Tel (0212)
518 12 05.v Sultanahmet.
Eserleri Müzesi
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm; Atmeydanı Sok, Sultanahmet.
Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm. Map 3 D4 (5 D4). Tel (0212) 518 18 05.
v Sultanahmet. Open Apr–Oct:
Located near Arasta 9am–7pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar:
Bazaar, among a warren 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. ∑ tiem.gov.tr
of small shops, this
museum was created Over 40,000 items are on display
simply by roofing over in the former palace of İbrahim
a part of the Great Paşa (c.1493–1536), the most
Palace of the Byzantine gifted of Süleyman’s many grand
Emperors (see pp84–5), viziers. Paşa married Süleyman’s
which was discovered sister when the sultan came to
Red-and-white brick exterior of the Baths of Roxelana by archaeologists in the the throne. The collection was
1930s. In its heyday the begun in the 19th century and
(see p28) by Sinan (see p93), palace boasted hundreds of ranges from the earliest period
and are named after Roxelana, rooms, many of them glittering of Islam, under the Omayyad
the sultan’s scheming wife. with gold mosaics. caliphate (661–750), through to
They were designated for the The surviving mosaic has a modern times.
use of the congregation of surface area of 1,872 sq m (1,969 Each room concentrates on a
Haghia Sophia (see pp74–7) sq ft), making it one of the different chronological period or
when it was used as a mosque. largest preserved mosaics in geographical area of the Islamic
With the women’s entrance Europe. It is thought to have world, with detailed explanations
at one end of the building been created by an imperial in both Turkish and English. The
and the men’s at workshop that employed the museum is particularly renowned
the other, their best craftsmen from for its collection of rugs. These
absolute symmetry across the empire range from 13th-century Seljuk
makes them under the fragments to the palatial Persian
perhaps the guidance of a silks that cover the walls from
most hand- master artist. floor to ceiling in the palace’s
some baths in In terms of great hall.
the city. The imagery, the On the ground floor, an
men’s section mosaic is ethnographic section focuses
of the baths particularly on the lifestyles of different
faces Haghia Detail of a 5th-century mosaic in the diverse, with Turkish peoples, particularly the
Sophia and has Mosaic Museum many different nomads of central and eastern
a fine colon- landscapes Anatolia. The exhibits include
naded portico. depicted, including domestic recreations of a round felt yurt
Each end of the baths starts and pastoral episodes, such as (Turkic nomadic tent) and a
with a camekan, a massive herdsmen with their grazing traditional brown tent.
domed hall which would animals, as well as hunting and
originally have been centred fighting scenes. It portrays over
on a fountain. Next is a small 150 different human and animal
soğukluk, or intermediate figures, including wild and
room, which opens into a domestic beasts. There are also
hararet, or steam room. The scenes from mythology, with
hexagonal massage slab in fantastical creatures featuring
each hararet, the göbek taşı, is on the design. The mosaic is
inlaid with coloured marbles, thought to have adorned the
indicating that the baths are colonnade leading from the
of imperial origin. royal apartments to the imperial
The baths functioned as a enclosure beside the
public bathhouse for over 350 Hippodrome, and dates from
years until 1910. After being the late 5th century AD.
used for other purposes
over several decades, the
bathhouse underwent major
7 Blue Mosque
restoration and reopened for Recreated yurt interior, Museum of Turkish
public use in 2012. See pp80–81. and Islamic Arts
7 Blue Mosque
Sultan Ahmet Camii
The blue mosque, which takes its name
from the mainly blue İznik tilework
(see p163) decorating its interior, is
one of the most famous religious
buildings in the world. Serene at
any time, it is at its most magical
when floodlit at night, its
minarets circled by keening A 19th-century engraving showing the Blue Mosque viewed
seagulls. Sultan Ahmet I (see p35) from the Hippodrome (see p82)
commissioned the mosque
during a period of declining
Ottoman fortunes, and it was
built between 1609–16 by
Mehmet Ağa, the imperial
architect. The splendour of
the plans provoked great
hostility at the time, especially
because a mosque with six
minarets was considered a
sacrilegious attempt to rival the
architecture of Mecca itself.
KEY
1 Exit for tourists

2 Prayer hall
3 The Imperial Pavilion
4 The loge (see p41) accommo-
dated the sultan and his entourage
during mosque services.
5 Mihrab
6 The 17th-century minbar is
intricately carved in white marble.
It is used by the imam during prayers
on Friday (see p40).
7 Thick piers support the weight
of the dome.
8 Müezzin mahfili (see p40). Entrance to
9 Over 250 windows allow light to courtyard
flood into the mosque.
0 The courtyard covers the same
area as the prayer hall, balancing the . İznik Tiles
whole building. No cost was spared in the
q Exit to Hippodrome decoration of the mosque.
The tiles were made at the
w Each minaret has two or
three balconies. peak of tile production in
İznik (see p163).
. Inside of the Dome

Mesmeric designs, employing flowing
arabesques, are painted onto the interior
of the mosque’s domes and semidomes.
Atmeydanı Sok, Sultanahmet.
The windows which pierce the domes
Map 3 E5 (5 E5). Tel (0212) 458
no longer have their original 17th-
07 76. Open outside prayer
century stained glass.
times Sat–Thu; 9am–noon Fri.
Closed prayer times. Son et
lumière: May–Sep: daily after dusk
(see the board on Mimar Mehmet
Ağa Caddesi).
Transport
v Sultanahmet.
Entrance . View of the Domes

The graceful cascade of
domes and semidomes makes
a striking sight when viewed
from the courtyard below.
Ablutions Fountain
The hexagonal şadırvan is
now purely ornamental since
ritual ablutions are no longer
carried out at this fountain.
Washing the Feet

The Muslim’s ritual ablutions
conclude with the washing of the
feet (see p41). Taps outside the
mosque are used by the faithful
for this purpose.
it in the 10th century AD. Its

dilapidated state owes much to
the young Janissaries (see p129)
who routinely scaled it as a test
of their bravery.
The only other structure in
the Hippodrome is a domed
fountain which commemorates
the visit of Kaiser Wilhelm II to
Istanbul in 1898.
The Hippodrome was the
scene of one of the bloodiest
events in Istanbul’s history.
In 532 a brawl between rival
chariot-racing teams developed
into the Nika Revolt, during
which much of the city was
destroyed. The end of the
revolt came when an army
of mercenaries, under the
command of Justinian’s general
Belisarius, massacred an
estimated 30,000 people
trapped in the Hippodrome.
Egyptian Obelisk and the Column of Constantine Porphyrogenitus 0 Marmara

University Museum
9 Hippodrome track. You can also make out
of the Republic
At Meydanı some of the arches of the
sphendrome (the curved end Cumhuriyet Müzesi
Sultanahmet. Map 3 E4 (5 D4).
of the Hippodrome) by walking Sultanahmet. Map 3 D5 (5 D5).
v Sultanahmet.
a few steps down Nakilbent v Sultanahmet. Open 10am–6pm
Little is left of the gigantic Sok. Constantine adorned the Tue–Sun.
chariot-racing arena which spina, the central line of the
once stood at the heart of stadium, with obelisks and This fine art collection run
the Byzantine city of columns from ancient Egypt and by Marmara University is
Constantinople (see pp24–5). Greece. The four bronze horses comprised of works by more
It was originally laid out by that stood on the long-vanished than 85 artists, both from Turkey
Emperor Septimus Severus starting gate were pillaged and around the world. The
during his rebuilding of the during the Fourth Crusade (see museum was initiated in 1973
city in the 3rd century AD p26) and taken to St Mark’s in as an etching exhibition held to
(see p21). Emperor Venice. Three ancient celebrate 50 years of Turkey
Constantine (see monuments remain, as a Republic. Today, visitors can
p22) enlarged the however. The see prints, paintings, calligraphy
Hippodrome and Egyptian Obelisk, and other traditional Turkish
connected its which was built art forms.
kathisma, or royal in 1500 BC, stood
box, to the nearby outside Luxor
Great Palace (see until Constantine q Cistern of 1001
pp84–5). It is Relief carved on the base of had it brought Columns
thought that the the Egyptian Obelisk to his city. This Binbirdirek Sarnıcı
arena held up to carved monument
Imran Okten Sok 4, Sultanahmet.
100,000 people. The site is is probably only one third of its Map 3 D4 (5 D4). Tel (0212) 518
now an elongated public original height. Next to it is the 10 01. v Çemberlitaş.
garden, At Meydanı, Cavalry Serpentine Column, dating Open 9am–6pm daily.
Square. There are, however, back to 479 BC, which was
enough remains of the shipped here from Delphi. This cistern, dating back to
Hippodrome to get a sense of Another obelisk still standing, the 4th century AD, is the
its scale and importance. but of unknown date, is usually second-largest underground
The road running around the referred to as the Column of Byzantine cistern in Istanbul
square almost directly follows Constantine Porphyrogenitus, after the Basilica Cistern (see
the line of the chariot-racing after the emperor who restored p78). Spanning an area of 64 m
Ceremonies in the Hippodrome Palace of İbrahim Paşa (Museum of Turkish

Sultan Murat III and Islamic Arts, see p79)
Beginning with the inauguration
of Constantinople on 11 May 330
(see p22), the Hippodrome
formed the stage for the city’s
greatest public events for the
next 1,300 years. The Byzantines’
most popular pastime was
watching chariot racing in
the stadium. Even after the
Hippodrome fell into ruins
following the Ottoman conquest
of Istanbul (see p28), it continued
to be used for great public
occasions. This 16th-century
illustration depicts Murat III
watching the 52-day-long
festivities staged for the
circumcision of his son Mehmet.
All the guilds of Istanbul paraded
before the sultan displaying
their crafts. Column of Constantine Serpentine Egyptian
Porphyrogenitus Column Obelisk
(210 ft) by 56 m (185 ft), e Constantine’s to as the Burnt Column because

the herring-bone brick roof Column it was damaged by several fires,
vaults are held up by 264 Çemberlitaş especially one in 1779 which
marble columns – the 1,001 decimated the Grand Bazaar
columns of its name is poetic Yeniçeriler Cad, Çemberlitaş. (see pp100–101).
Map 3 D4 (4 C3). v Çemberlitaş.
exaggeration. Until not long A variety of fantastical
Çemberlitaş Baths: Vezirhani Cad 8.
ago, the cistern was filled with holy relics were supposedly
Tel (0212) 511 25 35.
rubble and only explored by entombed in the base of the
adventurous visitors, but it column, which has since been
has been transformed into an A survivor of both storm and fire, encased in stone to strengthen
atmospheric shopping complex this 35-m (115-ft) high column it. These included the axe which
specializing in jewellery, carpets was constructed in AD 330 Noah used to build the
and tiles and other merchandise as part of the celebrations to ark, Mary Magdalen’s flask
inspired by Ottoman culture. inaugurate the new Byzantine of anointing oil, and
capital (see p22). It once remains of the loaves of
dominated the magnificent bread with which Christ
w Tomb of Sultan Forum of Constantine (see fed the multitude.
Mahmut II p25). Made of porphyry Next to
brought from Heliopolis Constantine’s Column,
Mahmut II Türbesi in Egypt, it was originally on the corner of
Divanyolu Cad, Çemberlitaş. surmounted by a Corinthian Divanyolu Caddesi, stand
Map 3 D4 (4 C3). v Çemberlitaş. capital bearing a statue the Çemberlitaş Baths.
Open 9:30am–4:30pm daily. of Emperor Constantine This splendid hamam
dressed as Apollo. This was complex (see p69) was
This large octagonal brought down in a storm commissioned by Nur
mausoleum is in the Empire in 1106. Although what Banu, wife of Sultan
style (modelled on Roman is left is relatively Selim II, and built in
architecture), made popular by unimpressive, it has been 1584 to a plan by
Napoleon. It was built in 1838, carefully preserved. In the the great Sinan (see
the year before Sultan Mahmut year 416 the 10 stone p93). Although the
II’s death and is shared by drums making up original women’s
sultans Mahmut II, Abdül Aziz the column were section no longer
and Abdül Hamit II (see pp34–5). reinforced with metal survives, the baths
Within, Corinthian pilasters rings. These were still have separate
divide up walls which groan renewed in 1701 by Constantine’s Column facilities for men
with symbols of victory and Sultan Mustafa II, and and women.
prosperity. The huge tomb consequently the column is The staff are used to foreign
dominates a cemetery that known as Çemberlitaş (the visitors, so this is a good place
has beautiful headstones, a Hooped Column) in Turkish. In for your first experience of
fountain and a good café. English it is sometimes referred a Turkish bath.
r Sokollu Mehmet
Paşa Mosque
Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii
Şehit Çeşmesi Sok, Sultanahmet.
Map 3 D5 (4 C5). v Çemberlitaş or
Sultanahmet. Open daily.
Built by the architect Sinan (see

p93) in 1571–2, this mosque
was commissioned by Sokollu
Mehmet Paşa, grand vizier to
Selim II (see p34). The simplicity
of Sinan’s design solution for
the mosque’s sloping site has
been widely admired. A steep
entrance stairway leads up to
the mosque courtyard from The Byzantine Church of SS Sergius and Bacchus, now a mosque
the street, passing beneath
the teaching hall of its medrese t SS Sergius and Justinian (see p22), together
(see p40), which still functions Bacchus’ Church with his empress, Theodora, at
as a college. Only the tiled the beginning of his long reign.
lunettes above the windows Küçük Ayasofya Camii Ingenious and highly decorative,
in the portico give a hint of Küçük Ayasofya Cad. Map 3 D5 (4 C5). the church gives a somewhat
the jewelled mosque interior v Çemberlitaş or Sultanahmet. higgledy-piggledy impression
to come. Open daily. 7 both inside and out and is one
Inside, the far wall around of the most charming of all the
the carved mihrab is entirely Commonly referred to as “Little city’s architectural treasures.
covered in İznik tiles (see p163) Haghia Sophia”, this church was Inside, an irregular octagon of
of a sumptuous green-blue built in 527, a few years before columns on two floors supports
hue. This tile panel, designed its namesake (see pp74–7). It too a broad central dome composed
specifically for the space, is was founded by Emperor of 16 vaults. The mosaic
complemented by six stained-
glass windows. The “hat” of
the minbar is covered with the Reconstruction of the Great Palace
same tiles. Most of the mosque’s In Byzantine times, present-day Sultanahmet
other walls are of plain stone, was the site of the Great Palace, which, in its The Mese was a
but they are enlivened by a few heyday, had no equal in Europe and dazzled colonnaded street
more tile panels. Set into the medieval visitors with its opulence. This great lined with shops
wall over the entrance there is complex of buildings – including royal and statuary.
a small piece of greenish stone apartments, state rooms, churches, courtyards
which is supposedly from and gardens – extended over a sloping, terraced Hippodrome (see p82)
the Kaaba, the holy stone at site from the Hippodrome to the imperial
the centre of Mecca. harbour on the shore of the Sea of Marmara.
The palace was built in stages, be-ginning under
Constantine in the 4th century. It was enlarged Hormisdas
by Justinian following the fire caused by the Palace
Nika Revolt in 532 (see p82). Later emperors,
especially the 9th-century Basil I (see p23),
extended it further. After several hundred years
of occupation, it was finally abandoned in the
second half of the 13th century in favour of
Blachernae Palace (see p119).
Church of SS Peter
and Paul
Church of SS Sergius and Bacchus

Interior of the 16th-century
Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Mosque
decoration which once adorned y Bucoleon Palace is all that now survives of the
some of the walls has long since Bukoleon Sarayı Bucoleon Palace, a maritime
crumbled away. However, the Kennedy Cad, Sultanahmet. Map 3 E5.
residence that formed part of
green and red marble columns, v Sultanahmet. the sprawling Great Palace.
the delicate tracery of the The waters of a small private
capitals and the carved frieze Finding the site of what harbour lapped right up to the
running above the columns are remains of the Great Palace of palace and a private flight of
original features of the church. the Byzantine emperors requires steps led down into the water,
The inscription on this frieze, precision. It is not advisable to allowing the emperor to board
in boldly carved Greek script, visit the ruins alone as they are imperial caïques. The ruined
mentions the founders of the sometimes occupied by vagrants. tower just east of the palace
church and St Sergius, but Take the path under the was a lighthouse, called the
not St Bacchus. The two saints disused railway from the Pharos, in Byzantine times.
were Roman centurions who Church of SS Sergius
converted to Christianity and and Bacchus, turn left
were martyred. Justinian cred- and walk beside
ited them with saving his life Kennedy Caddesi, the
when, as a young man, he main road along the
was implicated in a plot to kill shore of the Sea of
his uncle, Justin I. The saints Marmara for about
supposedly appeared to Justin 400 m (450 yards).
in a dream and told him to This will bring you to
release his nephew. a stretch of the ancient
The Church of SS Sergius and sea walls, constructed
Bacchus was built between two to protect the city
important edifices to which it from a naval assault.
was connected, the Palace of Within these walls
Hormisdas and the Church of SS you will find a creeper-
Peter and Paul, but has outlived clad section of
them both. After the conquest stonework pierced by
of Istanbul in 1453 (see p28) it three vast windows
was converted into a mosque. framed in marble. This Fragment of the Bucoleon Palace wall that remains intact
The Kathisma was the The Milion was the Haghia Sophia The Augusteum was a
imperial box of the point from which road (see pp74–7) porticoed public square.
Hippodrome. distances were
measured (see p73). Chalke Gate was
the main entrance
to the palace.
Hall of Gold (site of Mosaic Lighthouse Magnaura

Museum, see p79) Palace
Daphne Palace The Bucoleon Palace had a The Nea Ekklesia, erected by Basil I,
magnificent façade looking out set the style for all subsequent
over the sea. Byzantine churches.
THE BAZAAR QUARTER

Trade has always been important in a city With its seemingly limitless range of goods,
that straddles the continents of Asia and the labyrinthine Grand Bazaar is at the centre
Europe. Nowhere is this more evident than of all this commercial activity. The Spice
in the warren of streets lying between the Bazaar is equally colourful but smaller
Grand Bazaar and Galata Bridge. Everywhere, and more manageable.
goods tumble out of shops onto the Up on the hill, next to the university,
pavement. Look through any of the archways is Süleymaniye Mosque, a glorious
in between shops and you will discover expression of 16th-century Ottoman
hidden courtyards or hans (see p98) culture. It is just one of numerous
containing feverishly industrious workshops. beautiful mosques in this area.
Sights at a Glance
Mosques and Churches 8 Vefa Bozacısı Restaurants pp198–9
1 New Mosque y Book Bazaar 1 Aslan Restaurant
3 Rüstem Paşa Mosque u Valide Han 2 Aynen Dürüm
5 Süleymaniye Mosque pp92–3 i Grand Bazaar pp100–101 3 Bizim Mutfak
6 Church of St Theodore Museums and Monuments 4 Borsa
9 Prince’s Mosque 5 Can Restaurant
7 Valens Aqueduct
0 Kalenderhane Mosque 6 Çiğ Köfteci Ali Usta
e Forum of Theodosius
q Tulip Mosque 7 Darüzziyafe
r Museum of Calligraphy
w Bodrum Mosque 8 Doyuran Lokantasi
p Atik Ali Paşa Mosque Squares and Courtyards 9 Fes Café
a Nuruosmaniye Mosque t Beyazıt Square 10 Gaziantep Burç Ocakbaşı
s Mahmut Paşa Mosque o Çorlulu Ali Paşa Courtyard 11 Hamdi
Waterways 12 Havuzlu
Bazaars, Hans and Shops
13 Imren Lokantasi
2 Spice Bazaar 4 Golden Horn
14 Kahve Dünyası
15 Kardeşler Pilav Evi
16 Kral Kokoreç
17 Nar Lokanta
Atatürk Köprüsü
Atatürk Bridge 18 Nuruosmaniye Köftecisi
19 Ocakbası Dürüm Ve Kebap Salonu
20 Şark Kahvesi
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21 Siirt Şeref Büryan

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Shop selling porcelain and other colourful wares in the Grand Bazaar For map symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Around the Spice Bazaar

The narrow streets around the Spice Bazaar encapsulate the
spirit of old Istanbul. From here buses, taxis and trams head
off across the Galata Bridge and into the interior of the city.
The blast of ships’ horns signals the departure of ferries from
Eminönü to Asian Istanbul. It is the quarter’s shops and markets,
though, that are the focus of attention for the eager shoppers
who crowd the Spice Bazaar and the streets around it, sometimes
breaking for a leisurely tea beneath the trees in its courtyard.
Across the way, and entirely aloof from the bustle, rise the
domes of the New Mosque. On one of the commercial alleyways
which radiate out from the mosque, an inconspicuous doorway
3 . Rüstem Paşa Mosque
leads up stairs to the terrace of the serene, tile-covered Rüstem The interior of this secluded
Paşa Mosque. mosque is a brilliant pattern-
0 metres 75
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p163) of the finest quality.
0 yards 75
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Stall holders and street LA
R
traders, such as this man
selling garlic cloves, ply
their wares in Sabuncuhanı
Sokağı and the other
narrow streets around the
Spice Bazaar.
THE BAZAAR QUARTER 89
Golden
Horn
THE BAZAAR
QUARTER
SERAGLIO
POINT
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 2, 3, 4, & 5
Eminönü is the port from which ferries depart to many destinations
(see p242) and for trips along the Bosphorus (see pp146–51). It bustles
with activity as traders compete to sell drinks and snacks.
Galata The royal pavilion, a suite of

Bridge beautifully tiled private rooms, is
linked by a passage to the sultan’s
loge inside the New Mosque.
Eminönü sea bus
boarding point
Eminönü bus terminal
E
R
Ş Eminönü
A
D
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E Ç
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D
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M
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1 .New Mosque This mosque,

S
O
K
which dominates the Eminönü

waterfront, was completed in the
17th century by the mother of
Sultan Mehmet IV (see p35).
Ç
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Tea Gardens
D
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A
K
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C
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mother of Mehmet IV
N
E
Y
2 .Spice Bazaar This

CA market was built in 1660 as
D Pet market and part of the New Mosque
garden centre complex, and it has always
Key been associated with the sale
Suggested route of spices, though today there
is much more on offer.
1 New Mosque
Yeni Cami
Yeni Cami Meydanı, Eminönü.
Map 3 D2. v Eminönü. Open daily.
Situated at the southern end

of Galata Bridge, the New
Mosque is one of the most
prominent mosques in the city.
It dates from the time when a
few women from the harem
became powerful enough A selection of nuts and seeds for sale in the Spice Bazaar
to dictate the policies of the
Ottoman sultans (see p29). The 2 Spice Bazaar Iranian. Nowadays an eclectic
mosque was started in 1597 Mısır Çarşısı range of other items can be found
by Safiye, mother of Mehmet in the Spice Bazaar, including
Cami Meydanı Sok. Map 3 D2 (4 C1).
III, but building was suspended v Eminönü. Open 8am–7pm
everything from household
on the sultan’s death as his Mon–Sat. goods, toys and clothes to exotic
mother then lost her position. aphrodisiacs. The square between
It was not completed until This cavernous, L-shaped market the two arms of the bazaar is full
1663, after Turhan Hatice, was built in the early 17th century of commercial activity, with cafés,
mother of Mehmet IV, took as an extension of the New and stalls selling plants and pets.
up the project. Mosque complex. Its revenues
Though the mosque was once helped maintain the
built after the classical period mosque’s philanthropic institutions.
of Ottoman architecture, it In Turkish the market is
shares many traits with earlier named the Mısır Çarşısı – the
imperial foundations, including Egyptian Bazaar – because it
a monumental courtyard. The was built with money paid as
mosque once had a hospital, duty on Egyptian imports. In
school and public baths. English it is usually known as
The turquoise, blue and the Spice Bazaar. From medieval
white floral tiles decorating the times spices were a vital and
interior are from İznik (see p163) expensive part of cooking and
and date from the mid-17th they became the market’s main
century, though by this time produce. The bazaar came to Floral İznik tiles adorning the interior of
the quality of the tiles produced specialize in spices from the Rüstem Paşa Mosque
there was already in decline. orient, taking advantage of
More striking are the tiled Istanbul’s site on the trade route 3 Rüstem Paşa
lunettes and bold Koranic between the East (where most Mosque
frieze decorating the porch spices were grown) and Europe.
between the courtyard and Stalls in the bazaar stock spices,
Rüstem Paşa Camii
the prayer hall. herbs and other foods such as Hasırcılar Cad, Eminönü. Map 3 D2.
At the far left-hand corner of honey, nuts, sweetmeats and v Eminönü. Open daily.
the upper gallery is the sultan’s pastirma (cured beef ). Today’s
loge (see p41), which is linked expensive Eastern commod- Raised above the busy shops
to his personal suite of rooms ity, caviar, is also available, and warehouses around the
(see p89). the best variety being Spice Bazaar, this mosque was
built in 1561 by the great
architect Sinan (see p93) for
Rüstem Paşa, son-in-law of
and grand vizier to Süleyman I
(see p28). Rents from the
businesses in the bazaar
were intended to pay for the
upkeep of the mosque.
The staggering wealth of
its decoration says something
about the amount of money
that the corrupt Rüstem
managed to salt away during
his career. Most of the interior
is covered in İznik tiles of the
The New Mosque, a prominent feature on the Eminönü waterfront very highest quality.
The four piers are adorned with the Golden Horn. Nowadays, 12th–14th centuries, the last
tiles of one design but the rest though, the great container great era of Byzantine con-
of the prayer hall is a riot of ships coming to Istanbul use struction. It was converted into a
different patterns, from abstract ports on the Sea of Marmara. mosque following the Ottoman
to floral. Some of the finest tiles Spanning the mouth of the conquest of the city in 1453
can be found on the galleries. All Horn is the Galata Bridge, (see p28). Today, it is known as
in all, there is no other mosque which joins Eminönü to Galata. Molla Gürani Mosque. The
in the city adorned with such a The bridge, built in 1994, attractive brick exterior is
magnificent blanket of tiles. opens in the middle to allow admirable. The mosque is,
The mosque is also notable access for tall ships. It is a good however, currently closed
for its numerous windows: it place from which to appreciate and awaiting restoration.
was built with as many as the the complex geography of the
structure would allow. city and admire the minaret-
filled skyline.
To the north of Galata Bridge
4 Golden Horn lies the Haliç Bridge. It was
Haliç opened in 2013 amid contro-
versy as its prominent profile
Map 3 D2. v Eminönü.
@ 55T, 99A.
interrupts views of the Old City’s
famous skyline. The bridge
Often described as the world’s carries the M2 Metro line across
greatest natural harbour, the the Golden Horn, linking the
Golden Horn is a flooded river Old City with Beyoğlu. Beyond
valley which flows southwest it lies the Atatürk (Unkapanı)
into the Bosphorus. The estuary Bridge. There is also a motorway
attracted settlers to its shores bridge across the estuary near The 4th-century Valens Aqueduct crossing
in the 7th century BC and later the terminus of the Theodisian Atatürk Bulvarı
enabled Constantinople to Walls, much further up the Horn.
become a rich and powerful 7 Valens Aqueduct
port. According to legend, Bozdoğan Kemeri
the Byzantines threw so many 5 Süleymaniye
Atatürk Bulvarı, Saraçhane.
valuables into it during the Mosque Map 2 A3. v Laleli. @ 28, 61B, 87.
Ottoman conquest (see p28),  Vezneciler.
that the waters glistened with See pp92–3.
gold. Heavily polluted until Emperor Valens built this
recently, the waters today 6 Church of mighty aqueduct, supported
are clean enough to support St Theodore by two imposing rows of
fish and cormorants. There arches, in the late 4th century
are plans to turn a part of it
Vefa Kilise Camii AD. Part of the elaborate water
into a marina. Vefa Cad, Cami Sok, Vefa. Map 2 B2. system feeding the palaces
For hundreds of years the @ 28, 61B, 87. and fountains of the Byzantine
city’s trade was conducted capital, it brought water from
by ships that off-loaded their The elaborate Byzantine Church the Belgrade Forest (see p160)
goods into warehouses lining of St Theodore was built in the and mountains over 200 km
(125 miles) away to a vast
cistern which stood in the
vicinity of what is now Beyazıt
Square (see p96).
The aqueduct supplied the
city’s water until the late 19th
century, when it was made
obsolete by a modern water
distribution network. The
original open channels, how-
ever, had by this stage already
been replaced first by clay
pipes and then by iron ones.
The structure was repaired
many times during its history,
latterly by sultans Mustafa II
(1695–1703) and Ahmet III
(see p29). It was originally
1,000 m (3,300 ft) long, of
Fisherman on the modern Galata Bridge spanning the Golden Horn which 625 m (2,050 ft) remain.
5 Süleymaniye Mosque
Süleymaniye Camii
Istanbul’s most important mosque is both a
tribute to its architect, the great Sinan, and a fitting
memorial to its founder, Süleyman the Magnificent
(see p28). It was built above the Golden Horn in
the grounds of the old palace, Eski Saray (see p96),
between 1550–57. Like the city’s other imperial
Courtyard
mosques, the Süleymaniye Mosque was not only a
The ancient columns that surround
place of worship, but also a charitable foundation, the courtyard are said to have come
or külliye (see p40). The mosque is surrounded by its originally from the kathisma, the
former hospital, soup kitchen, schools, caravanserai Byzantine royal box in the
Hippodrome (see p82).
and bathhouse. This complex provided a welfare
system which fed over 1,000 of the city’s poor –
Muslims, Christians and Jews alike – every day.
KEY
1 Café in a sunken garden

2 Muvakkithane Gateway
The main courtyard entrance
(now closed) contained the rooms
of the mosque astronomer, who
determined prayer times.
3 İmaret Gate
4 The caravanserai provided
lodging and food for travellers and
their animals.
5 Tomb of Sinan
6 Minaret
7 The Tomb of Roxelana contains
Süleyman’s beloved wife (see p78).
8 Graveyard
9 These marble benches
were used to support coffins
before burial.
0 “Addicts Alley” is so called
because the cafés here once sold
opium and hashish as well as
coffee and tea.
q The medreses (see p40) to the
south of the mosque house a library
containing 110,000 manuscripts.
w Former hospital and asylum
İmaret
The kitchen – now a restaurant,
Dârüzziyafe (see p199) – fed the city’s
poor as well as the mosque staff and
their families. The size of the millstone in
its courtyard gives an idea of the amount
of grain needed to feed everyone.
. Mosque Interior VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

A sense of soaring space
and calm strikes you as you
enter the mosque. The effect
Prof Siddik Sami Onar Caddesi,
is enhanced by the fact that
Vefa. Map 2 C3 (4 A1). Tel (0212)
the height of the dome from
522 02 98. Open daily. Closed at
the floor is exactly double
prayer times.
its diameter.
Transport
v Beyazıt, Laleli or Eminönü,
then 10 mins walk.  Vezneciler.
Entrance
. Tomb of Süleyman
Ceramic stars said to be set
with emeralds sparkle above
the coffins of Süleyman, his
daughter Mihrimah and two
of his successors, Süleyman II
and Ahmet II.
Sinan, the Imperial Architect

Like many of his eminent contemporaries, Mimar Sinan
(c.1490–1588) was brought from Anatolia to Istanbul in the
devşirme, the annual roundup of talented Christian
youths, and educated at one of the elite palace
schools. He became a military engineer but won
the eye of Süleyman I, who made him chief imperial
architect in 1538. With the far-sighted patronage of
the sultan, Sinan – the closest Turkey gets to
a Renaissance architect – created masterpieces
which demonstrated his master’s status as the
most magnificent of monarchs. Sinan died
Bust of the great aged 98, having built 131 mosques and 200
architect Sinan other buildings.
8 Vefa Bozacısı crippled children, solve fertility

Katip Çelebi Cad 104/1, Vefa. Map 2 B2. problems and find husbands or
Tel (0212) 519 49 22. @ 61B, 90.  accommodation for those who
Vezneciler. Open 8am–midnight daily. beseech him.
With its wood-and-tile interior

0 Kalenderhane
and glittering glass-mosaic
columns, this unusual shop and Mosque
bar has changed little since the Kalenderhane Camii
1930s. It was founded in 1876 to 16 Mart Şehitleri Cad, Saraçhane.
sell boza, a popular winter drink, Map 2 B3. v Laleli/Üniversite.
often made from bulgur (cracked  Vezneciler. Open prayer times only.
wheat, see p195), although millet
is the grain of choice here. In Sitting in the lee of the Valens
summer a fermented grape juice Aqueduct (see p91), this
known as şıra is sold. The shop’s Byzantine church has a che-
main trade throughout the whole Dome of the Prince’s Mosque, Sinan’s first quered history. It was built and
year, however, is in wine vinegar. imperial mosque rebuilt several times between
Inside the shop you will see a the 6th and 12th centuries,
glass from which Kemal Atatürk approached through an elegant before being converted into
(see p33) drank boza in 1937, porticoed inner courtyard, while a mosque shortly after the
enshrined beneath a glass dome. the other institutions making up conquest in 1453 (see p28). It
the mosque complex, including is named after the Kalender
a medrese (see p40), are enclosed brotherhood of dervishes,
within an outer courtyard. who occupied it for some
The interior of the mosque is years following the conquest.
unusual and was something of The building has the
an experiment in that it is cruciform layout characteristic
symmetrical, having a semi- of Byzantine churches of the
dome on each of its four sides. period. Some of the decor-
The three tombs located to ation remaining from its last
the rear of the mosque, incarnation, as the Church
belonging to Şehzade Mehmet of Theotokos Kyriotissa (her
himself and grand viziers Ladyship Mary, Mother of
İbrahim Paşa and Rüstem Paşa God), also survives in the prayer
(see p90), are the finest in the hall with its marble panelling
city. Each has beautiful İznik tiles and in the fragments of fresco
Bottles of boza, a wheat-based drink, in the (see p163) and lustrous original in the narthex (entrance hall).
Vefa Bozacısı stained glass. That of Şehzade A series of frescoes depicting
Mehmet also boasts the finest the life of St Francis of Assisi
painted dome in Istanbul. were removed in the 1970s.
9 Prince’s Mosque On Fridays you will notice Fragments can be seen in
Şehzade Camii women flocking to another the Archaeology Museum,
tomb within the complex, that as can the only iconoclastic
Şehzade Başı Cad 70, Saraçhane.
Map 2 B3. v Laleli/Üniversite.
of Helvacı Baba, as they have figurative mosaic to have
 Vezneciler. Open daily. Tombs: done for over 400 years. Helvacı survived in the city, the Icon
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. Baba is said to miraculously cure of the Presentation (see p65).
This mosque complex was

erected by Süleyman the
Magnificent (see p28) in memory
of his eldest son by Roxelana
(see p78), Şehzade (Prince)
Mehmet, who died of smallpox
at the age of 21. The building
was Sinan’s (see p93) first major
imperial commission and
was completed in 1548. The
architect used a delightful
decorative style in designing
this mosque before abandoning
it in favour of the classical
austerity that characterizes
his later work. The mosque is A shaft of light illuminating the interior of Kalenderhane Mosque
Byzantium. The building was

gutted by fire several times
and nothing remains of its
internal decoration. Today it is
still a working mosque and is
accessed via a stairway which
leads up to a raised piazza filled
with coat stalls.
e Forum of
Theodosius
Theodosius Forumu
Ordu Cad, Beyazıt. Map 2 C4 (4 A3).
v Laleli/Üniversite or Beyazıt.
Constantinople (see pp24–5) was

built around several large public
squares or forums. The largest of
them stood on the site of
present-day Beyazıt Square. It
was originally known as the
Forum Tauri (the Forum of the
Bull) because of the huge bronze
bull in the middle of it in which
sacrificial animals, and sometimes
even criminals, were roasted.
After Theodosius the
Great enlarged it in the late 4th
The Baroque Tulip Mosque, housing a marketplace in its basement century, the forum took his
name. Relics of the triumphal
q Tulip Mosque Sokağı. The main courtyard of arch and other structures can
Lâleli Camii the han is at the end of a long be found on either side of the
passage situated off this lane. tram tracks along Ordu Caddesi.
Ordu Cad, Lâleli. Map 2 B4. v Lâleli/
The huge columns, with a motif
Üniversite  Vezneciler. Open prayer
times only. reminiscent of a peacock’s tail,
w Bodrum Mosque are particularly striking. Once
Built from 1760–64, this mosque Bodrum Camii the forum had become derelict,
complex is the best example Sait Efendi Sok, Laleli. Map 2 A4. these columns were reused all
in the city of the Baroque style, v Laleli/Üniversite. Open prayer over the city. Some can be seen
of which its architect, Mehmet times only. in the Basilica Cistern (see p78).
Tahir Ağa, was the greatest Other fragments from the forum
exponent. Inside the mosque, Narrow courses of brick forming were built into Beyazıt Hamamı,
a variety of gaudy, coloured the outside walls, and a window- a Turkish bath (see p69) further
marble covers all of its surfaces. pierced dome, betray the early west down Ordu Caddesi, now
More fascinating is the area origins of this mosque as a a bazaar.
underneath the main body Byzantine church. It was built
of the mosque. This is a great in the early 10th century by
hall supported on eight piers, co-Emperor Romanus I
with a fountain in the middle. Lacapenus (919–44) as part of
The hall is now used as a sub- the Monastery of Myrelaion, and
terranean marketplace and is it adjoined a small palace. The
packed with Eastern Europeans palace was later converted into
and Central Asians haggling a nunnery where the emperor’s
over items of clothing. widow, Theophano, lived out
The nearby Büyük Taş Han (see her final years. She was even-
p98), or Big Stone Han, is likely to tually buried in a sanctuary
have been part of the mosque’s chapel beneath the church,
original complex but now houses which is closed to the public.
a number of leather shops and a In the late 15th century the
restaurant. To get to it turn left church was converted into a
outside the mosque into Fethi mosque by Mesih Paşa, a
Bey Caddesi and then take the descendant of the Palaeologus Peacock feather design on a column from
second left into Çukur Çeşme family, the last dynasty to rule the Forum of Theodosius
r Museum of
Calligraphy
Türk Vakıf Hat
Sanatları Müzesi
Beyazıt Meydanı, Beyazıt. Map 2 C4
(4 A3). Tel (0212) 527 58 51. v Laleli/
Üniversite. Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sat.
& 7 with assistance.
The pretty courtyard in which

this museum has been installed
was once a medrese (see p40)
of Beyazıt Mosque, situated on
the other side of the square.
Its changing displays are
taken from the massive archive
belonging to the Turkish The fortress-like entrance to Istanbul University, Beyazıt Square
Calligraphy Foundation. As well
as some beautiful manuscripts, Central Asian silks to general y Book Bazaar
including some dating back bric-a-brac can be purchased. Sahaflar Çarşısı
to the 13th century, there are When you have tired of
Sahaflar Çarşısı Sok, Beyazıt.
examples of calligraphy on rummaging, try one of the cafés. Map 2 C4 (4 A3). v Laleli/Üniversite.
stone and glass. There is also On the northern side of the Open 8am–8pm daily. 7
an exhibition of tools used in square is the Moorish-style
calligraphy. One of the cells gateway leading into Istanbul This charming booksellers’
in the medrese now contains a University. The university’s main courtyard, on the site of the
waxwork tableau of a master building dates from the 19th Byzantine book and paper
calligrapher with his pupils. century and once served as the market, can be entered either
The museum is slated to Ministry of War. Within the from Beyazıt Square or from
reopen in 2016 after renovation. wooded grounds rises Beyazıt inside the Grand Bazaar (see
Tower. This marble fire-watching pp100–101). Racks are laden with
station was built in 1828 on the all sorts of books, from tourist
site of Eski Saray, the palace first guides to academic tomes.
inhabited by Mehmet the During the early Ottoman
Conqueror (see p28) after period (see pp27–9), printed
Byzantium fell to the Ottomans. books were seen as a corrupting
Two original timber towers were European influence and were
destroyed by fire. The tower is banned in Turkey. As a result the
now illuminated, indicating bazaar only sold manuscripts.
weather conditions through the Then on 31 January 1729
use of different lights. İbrahim Müteferrika (1674–
On the square’s eastern side 1745) produced the first printed
is Beyazıt Mosque, which was book in the Turkish language,
commissioned by Beyazıt II and an Arabic dictionary. His bust
completed in 1506. It is the stands in the centre of the
oldest surviving imperial mosque market today. Note that book
in the city. Behind the impressive prices are fixed and cannot be
Beyazıt Tower, within the wooded grounds outer portal is a harmonious haggled over.
of Istanbul University courtyard with an
elegant domed fountain
t Beyazıt Square at its centre. Around the
Beyazıt Meydanı courtyard are columns
made of granite and
Ordu Cad, Beyazıt. Map 2 C4 (4 A3).
v Beyazıt.
green and red Egyptian
porphyry, and a pave-
Always filled with crowds of ment of multicoloured
people and huge flocks of marble. The layout of the
pigeons, Beyazıt Square is the mosque’s interior, with its
most vibrant space in the old central dome and sur-
part of the city. Throughout the rounding semidomes, is
week the square is the venue for heavily inspired by the
a flea market, where everything design of Haghia Sophia
from carpets (see pp218–19) and (see pp74–7). Customers browsing in the Book Bazaar
The Art of Ottoman Calligraphy

Calligraphy is one of the noblest of Islamic arts. Its skills were handed down from master
to apprentice, with the aim of the pupil being to replicate perfectly the hand of his master.
In Ottoman Turkey, calligraphy was used to ornament firmans (imperial decrees) as well as
poetry and copies of the Koran. However, many examples are also to be found on buildings,
carved in wood and applied to architectural ceramics. The art of the calligrapher in all cases
was to go as far as possible in beautifying the writing without altering the sense of the text.
It was particularly important that the text of the Koran should be accurately transcribed. With
the text of a firman, made to impress as much as to be read, the calligrapher could afford to
add more flourishes.
The sultan’s tuğra was his

Floral personal monogram, used
decorations in place of his signature. It
would either be drawn by a
calligrapher or engraved on
a wooden block and then
stamped on documents.
The tuğra incorporated the
Ornamental sultan’s name and title, his
loops patronymic and wishes for his
The great calligraphers of the success or victory – all highly
Ottoman period were Şeyh stylized. This is the tuğra of
Hamdullah (1436–1520), Selim II (1566–74).
whose work is seen in this
Koran, Hafız Osman (1642–
98) and Ahmet Karahisari
(d.1556). Their pupils also
achieved great renown.
Calligraphy developed
further in the 19th and early
20th centuries, when artists
explored more creative
forms and worked with
new media. There was
greater freedom to
depict human faces
and animal forms.
Calligraphers also
began to practise
the technique of
découpage
(cutting out the
letters) and, as
seen here, wrote The later sultans were taught calligraphy
inscriptions on as part of their education and became
delicate leaf skeletons. skilled artists. This panel, from the 19th
century, is by Mahmut II (1808–39).
Burnisher
Knife for cutting pen nib
The calligrapher’s tools and materials included a

Breathing techniques were probably practised burnisher, usually made of agate, which was used
by some calligraphers in order to achieve the to prepare the paper. A knife was used to slit the
steadiness of hand required for their craft. reed nib of the pen before writing.
u Valide Han
Valide Han
Junction of Tarakçılar Sok and
Çakmakçılar Yokuşu, Beyazıt. Map 2 C3
(4 B2). v Beyazıt, then 10 mins walk.
Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat.
If the Grand Bazaar (see pp100–

101) seems large, it is sobering
to realize that it is only the
covered part of a huge area
of seething commercial activity
which reaches all the way to
the Golden Horn (see p91). As
in the Grand Bazaar, most
manufacturing and trade takes
place in hans, courtyards hidden
away from the street behind
shaded gateways.
The largest han in Istanbul is
Valide Han. It was built in 1651
by Kösem, the mother of Sultan Carpet shops in Çorlulu Ali Paşa Courtyard
Murat IV. You enter it from
Çakmakçılar Yokuşu through a has three arcaded levels. The o Çorlulu Ali Paşa
massive portal. After passing entrance is on the top level, Courtyard
through an irregularly shaped where distinctive bird cages
forecourt, you come out into a are among the wares. Çorlulu Ali Paşa Külliyesi
large courtyard centring on a In the labyrinth of narrow Yeniçeriler Cad, Beyazıt. Map 4 B3.
Shiite mosque. This was built streets around these hans, v Beyazıt. Open daily.
when the han became the artisans are grouped according
centre of Persian trade in the to their wares: on Bakırcılar Like many others in the city, the
city. Today, the han throbs to Caddesi, for instance, you will medrese (see p40) of this mosque
the rhythm of hundreds of find metal workers, while the complex outside the Grand
weaving looms. craftsmen of Uzunçarşı Caddesi Bazaar has become the setting
A short walk further down make wooden items. for a tranquil outdoor café. It
Çakmakçılar Yokuşu is Büyük was built for Çorlulu Ali Paşa,
Yeni Han, hidden behind son-in-law of Mustafa II, who
another impressive doorway.
i Grand Bazaar served as grand vizier under
This Baroque han, built in 1764, See pp100–101. Ahmet III (see p29). Ahmet later
exiled him to the island of
Lésbos and had him executed
Hans of Istanbul there in 1711. Some years later
The innumerable hans that dot his family smuggled his head
the centre of Istanbul originally back to Istanbul and interred
provided temporary it in the tomb built for him.
accommodation for travellers, The complex is entered from
their pack animals and their Yeniçeriler Caddesi by two
wares. The typical han was built alleyways. Several carpet shops
as part of a mosque complex now inhabit the medrese and
(see pp40–41). It consists of rugs are hung and spread all
two- or three-storey buildings around, waiting for prospective
around a courtyard. This is buyers. The carpet shops share
entered via a large gateway
the medrese with a kahve, a
which can be secured by a
traditional café (see p208),
heavy wooden door at night.
When vans and lorries replaced which is popular with locals
horses and mules, the city’s and students from the nearby
hans lost their original function university. It advertises itself
and most of them were irresistibly as the “Traditional
Café in Büyük Taş Han, near the Tulip converted into warrens of small Mystic Water Pipe and Erenler
Mosque (see p95) factories and workshops. These Tea Garden”. Here you can sit
working hans are frequently and drink tea, and perhaps
in bad repair, but they are places in which you can still sense the smoke a nargile (bubble pipe),
entrepreneurial, oriental atmosphere of bygone Istanbul. while deciding which carpet
to buy (see pp218–19).
Situated across Bıleycıler In an unusual touch, its

Sokak, an alleyway off Çorlulu mihrab is contained in a kind
Ali Paşa Courtyard, is the of apse. The other buildings
Koca Sinan Paşa tomb complex, which formed part of the
the courtyard of which is mosque complex – its kitchen
another tea garden. The (imaret), medrese and Sufi
charming medrese, mausoleum monastery (tekke) – have all
and sebil (a fountain where but disappeared during the
water was handed out to widening of the busy
passers-by) were built in Yeniçeriler Caddesi.
1593 by Davut Ağa, who
succeeded Sinan (see p93) as
chief architect of the empire. a Nuruosmaniye
The tomb of Koca Sinan Paşa, Mosque
grand vizier under Murat III Nuruosmaniye Camii
and Mehmet III, is a striking The tomb of Mahmut Paşa, behind the
16-sided structure. Vezirhanı Cad, Beyazıt. Map 3 D4 mosque named after him
Just off the other side of (4 C3). v Çemberlitaş.
Open daily. ^ s Mahmut Paşa
Yeniçeriler Caddesi is Gedik Paşa
Hamamı, thought to be the Mosque
oldest working Turkish baths Nuruosmaniye caddesi, a street
Mahmut Paşa Camii
(see p69) in the city. T built lined with carpet and antique
around 1475 for Gedik Ahmet shops, leads to the gateway of Vezirhanı Cad, Beyazıt. Map 3 D3
Paşa, grand vizier under Mehmet the mosque from which it gets (4 C3). v Çemberlitaş. @ 61B.
the Conqueror (see p28). its name. Mahmut I began the Open daily. ^
mosque in 1748, and it was
finished by his brother, Osman III Built in 1462, just nine years
in 1755. It was the first in the city after Istanbul’s conquest by the
to exhibit the exaggerated traits Ottomans, this was the first large
of the Baroque, as seen in its mosque to be erected within the
massive cornices. Its most city walls. Unfortunately, it has
striking features, however, are been over-restored and much
the enormous unconcealed of its original charm lost.
arches supporting the dome, The mosque was funded
each pierced by a mass of by Mahmut Paşa, a Byzantine
windows. Light floods into the aristocrat who converted to
plain square prayer hall, allowing Islam and became grand vizier
you to see the finely carved under Mehmet the Conqueror.
wooden calligraphic frieze In 1474 his disastrous military
which runs around the walls leadership incurred the sultan’s
above the gallery. fury, and he was executed. His
The dome and minaret of the mosque On the other side of the tomb, behind the mosque, is
of Atik Ali Paşa mosque complex is the unique in Istanbul for its
Nuruosmaniye Gate. This leads Moorish style of decoration,
p Atik Ali Paşa into Kalpakçılar Caddesi, the with small tiles in blue, black,
Mosque Grand Bazaar’s street of jewellery turquoise and green set in
Atik Ali Paşa Camii shops (see p101). swirling geometric patterns.
Yeniçeriler Cad, Beyazıt. Map 3 D4
(4 C3). v Çemberlitaş.
Open daily. ^
Secreted behind walls in

the area south of the Grand
Bazaar, this is one of the oldest
mosques in the city. It was
built in 1496 during the reign
of Beyazıt II, the successor of
Mehmet the Conqueror, by his
eunuch grand vizier, Atik Ali
Paşa. The mosque stands in
a small garden. It is a simple
rectangular structure entered
through a deep stone porch. Rows of windows illuminating the prayer hall of Nuruosmaniye Mosque
Spice Bazaar (p90),

i Grand Bazaar Örücüler Gate Valide Han (p98)
Kapalı Çarşı
Nothing can prepare you for the Grand Bazaar. This labyrinth
of streets covered by painted vaults is lined with thousands
of booth-like shops, whose wares spill out to tempt you and
YO LG E Ç E N
whose shopkeepers are relentless in their quest for a sale. HAN
The bazaar was established by Mehmet II shortly after
his conquest of the city in 1453 (see p28). It can A S TA R C I
HANI
be entered by several gateways, two of the
most useful being Çarşıkapı Gate (from
Beyazıt tram stop) and Nuruosmaniye Gate
ÇU K U R
(from Nuruosmaniye Mosque). It is easy HAN
to get lost in the bazaar in spite of the
ÇEBECI
signposting. Most of the bazaar’s goods HAN
were once manufactured and traded
İÇ CEBECİ HAN
behind the scenes in a large area made
up of secluded courtyards called
hans (see p98). PERDAHÇILAR SOK
Key
YA Ğ L I K Ç I L A R S O K
Suggested route D
R CA
CILA
AN
RG
O AR SOK
K AVA F L
Y
H AC I H
ASAN
SOK
Z E N N E C İ L E R SO K
CAD
The Rooftops of the

CİLER
Grand Bazaar
K
Cİ LER SO
Cafés, restaurants, toilets, BODRUM HANI

TA K K E
banks, a post office, a police

station and a mosque serve
FERACE
those who work and shop

inside the bazaar.
D
CA
LER
FESÇİ
Beyazıt Gate
D
ÇILAR CA
K A L PA K
Çadırcılar Caddesi,
Book Bazaar (see p96)
Havuzlu Lokanta
is the best
restaurant in the Beyazıt
bazaar (see p199). Çarşıkapı Gate tram
stop
Marble Fountain
Şark Kahvesi Two copper and
This traditional marble fountains
Turkish café is a once provided
popular choice with the bazaar with
local bazaar traders. fresh water.
Zincirli Han
This is one of the
prettiest hans in the
bazaar. Here a piece
Çarşıkapı Cad, Beyazıt.
of jewellery can be
Map 2 C4 (4 B3).
made to your own
Open 8:30am–7pm Mon–Sat.
choice of design.
Transport
@ 61B. v Beyazıt (for
Çarşıkapı Gate), Çemberlitaş
(for Nuruosmaniye Gate).
The İç Bedesten The Oriental Kiosk
is the oldest part of the was built as a coffee
bazaar. Once a locked house in the 17th
warehouse, it also century and is now
served as a place where a jewellery shop.
jewellers could make
and sell their wares.
Rugs on Display
Carpets and kilims (see pp218–19) from
Z İN C İR L İ
HAN all over Turkey and Central Asia are on
sale in the bazaar.
Mahmut
Paşa Gate
AY N A C I L A R S O K Money
trading is
CA D conducted
R Ç A R ȘI SI
HALICILA on mobile
phones.
AĞ A S O K
ST EN Gateway to the İç
İÇ BEDE Bedesten
SO K
Z A CI L AR Though the eagle was a
K
M U H A FA
AȘI SO
symbol of the Byzantine

S A N D A L B E D ESTENİ S O K
emperors (see p27), this

eagle, like the bazaar
TERZİ B
ER CAD itself, postdates the

KESECİL SANDAL
BEDESTENİ Byzantine era.
The Sandal Bedesteni

dates from the 16th
century and is covered
by 20 brick domes
supported on piers.
Nuruosmaniye Mosque (see p99),

Çemberlitaş tram stop
Nuruosmaniye
Gate 0 metres 40
0 yards 40
Key
Kalpakçılar Caddesi, Antiques and carpets
the widest of the Leather and denim
streets in the bazaar,
Souvenirs is lined with the Gold and silver
Traditionally glittering windows Fabrics
crafted items, of countless Souvenirs
such as this brass jewellery shops.
coffee pot, are for Household goods and workshops
sale in the bazaar. Boundary of the bazaar
BEYOĞLU
For centuries Beyoğlu, a steep hill north of the Greeks and Armenians settled in communities
Golden Horn, was home to the city’s foreign here. From the 16th century the great European
residents. First to arrive here were the Genoese. powers established embassies in the area to
As a reward for their help in the reconquest of further their own interests within the lucrative
the city from the Latins in 1261 (see p26), they territories of the Ottoman Empire. The district
were given the Galata area, which is now has not changed much in character over the
dominated by the Galata Tower. During the centuries and is still a thriving commercial
Ottoman period, Jews from Spain, Arabs, quarter today.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Selected Restaurants pp199–202
Monuments 1 5 Kat
1 Pera Palas Hotel 2 Ada Café & Bookstore
3 Mevlevi Lodge 3 Ara Kafe
4 Galata Tower 4 Cezayir
q Tophane Fountain 5 Çok Çok Thai
Mosques and Churches 6 Date
7 Datli Maya
5 Church of SS Peter and Paul
8 Hacıbaba See also Street Finder
6 Arab Mosque
9 İsmail Kebab maps 3, 6 & 7
7 Azap Kapı Mosque
10 Kahve6
9 Yeraltı Mosque
11 Karaköy Lokantası
0 Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque
12 Kitchenette
w Nusretiye Mosque
13 Klemuri
Museums and Galleries 14 Mandabatmaz
2 Pera Museum 15 Meze by Lemon Tree
8 Ottoman Bank Museum 16 Münferit A SK ER
O
e Istanbul Modern 17 Ninja CADD C A Ğ I
ESİ
GA
Quarters 18 Solera ZH
İ
ES
AN
E BOS
19 Yeni Lokanta TANI
DD
TAKSİM SOK
r Çukurcuma
CA
PARKI
20 Van Kahvaltı Evi
t Taksim
M İR Y S O K
M E TE
BE
ALA AĞ
YŞ I
İ
ES
TA K S
Taksim
DD
EFİK
ESİ DÜMEN
CA
ZA SOK
DD
CA
Taksim C A BE YTÜ SOK

MB
BEK
İM
I
D
BAŞ
S AĞ
L
İ
DÜ IK SO
Ü S U LA
S OK
ES
LA K
O S SO
AK
TA R
AR S
M İSAĞI
M N
SO Ö ÇİFTE KÇ
M
DD
NYA K
L
A
NOZ E
AL
A BA K NLI İ N SOK VA
ME
IS
CA
OK
ÜK K
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RIHTIM 0 metres 500
Karaköy
0 yards 500
Galata Tower, one of the city’s most distinctive sights For map symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: İstiklâl Caddesi

The pedestrianized İstiklal Caddesi is Beyoğlu’s main street.
Once known as the Grande Rue de Pera, it is lined by late
19th-century apartment blocks and European embassy
buildings whose grandiose gates and façades belie their
use as mere consulates since Ankara became the Turkish
capital in 1923 (see p33). Hidden from view stand the
churches which used to serve the foreign communities of
Pera (as this area was formerly called), some still buzzing with
worshippers, others just quiet echoes of a bygone era. The
once seedy backstreets of Beyoğlu, off İstiklâl Caddesi, are
now filled with trendy jazz bars, shops selling handcrafted
jewellery, furniture and the like. Crowds are also drawn by
the area’s cinemas and numerous stylish restaurants. A red 1 . Pera Palas Hotel This hotel
period tram rumbles up and down İstiklal Caddesi, linking is an atmospheric period piece.
Many famous guests, including
Tünel Square with Taksim Square. Agatha Christie, Ernest Hemingway
and Alfred Hitchcock, have stayed
here since it opened in 1892.
St Mary Draperis is a Franciscan

church dating from 1789. This
small statue of the Virgin stands
above the entrance from the
street. The vaulted interior of
the church is colourfully
decorated. An icon of the
Virgin, said to perform U
miracles, hangs over the altar. R
Ş
E
M
A
S
M
A
L I
Tünel underground
M E S C İ
funicular to Karaköy
D
T
A
C
L
S O K
A
L
İK
Tünel T
İS
Square
3 . Mevlevi Lodge
A peaceful garden Galata
surrounds this small Tower
museum of the Mevlevi
Sufi sect (see p106). On
the last Sunday of every
month visitors can see Russian
dervishes perform their Consulate
Swedish
famous swirling dance. Consulate
BEYOĞLU 105
Galatasaray Fish Market

(Balık Pazarı) mainly sells fresh
fish, but inside you will also
discover numerous delicatessens BEYOĞLU
offering everything from meats

and cheeses through to delicious
sweetmeats and pickles.
BOSPHORUS
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 3, 6 & 7
British
Consulate
HAMA
LBAŞ
I CA
Armenian
church
D
D
A
C
T
E
Y
İ
T
Taksim
Y E N İ
D
A
Ç A R Ş I
C
L
A
L
İK
T
İS
C A D
Galatasaray High
School
Çiçek Pasajı was
originally a flower market.
Its stalls have now been
replaced by bars and
restaurants, which are
particularly lively in
the evenings.
Dutch
Consulate
2 Pera Museum
Oriental paintings,
Anatolian weights and
measures and Kütahya
tiles and ceramics are
part of the collection.
Key
The Church of the Panaghia
Suggested route
serves the now much-reduced
Greek Orthodox population of
0 metres 75 Beyoğlu. Dedicated to the Virgin
0 yards 75
Mary, it contains this beautiful
classical iconostasis.
Sufism and the Whirling Dervishes

Sufism is the mystical branch of Islam (see pp40–41). The name comes
from suf, the Arabic for wool, for Sufis were originally associated with
poverty and self-denial, and often wore rough woollen clothes next
to the skin. Sufis aspire to a personal experience of the divine. This
takes the form of meditative rituals, involving recitation, dance and
music, to bring the practitioner into direct, ecstatic communion with
Allah. There are several sects of Sufis, the most famous of which are
the Mevlevi, better known as the Whirling Dervishes on account of
their ritual spinning dance.
The elegant Grand Orient bar in the Pera

Palace Hotel
1 Pera Palace Hotel

Pera Palas Oteli
Meşrutiyet Cad 98–100, Tepebaşı.
Map 7 D5. Tel (0212) 251 45 60.
 Tünel Beyoğlu. 7 by
arrangement. 8 by appointment
only. ∑ perapalas.com
The Pera Palace (see p188) has

attained a legendary status.
Relying on the hazy mystique Painting of the Whirling Dervishes (1837) at the Mevlevi Lodge
of yesteryear, it has changed
little since it opened in 1892,
mainly to cater for travellers on 2 Pera Museum of 18th-century Kütahya tiles
the Orient Express (see p68). It Pera Müzesi and ceramics, and the Suna
still evokes images of uniformed and İnan Kıraç Foundation’s
Meşrutiyet Cad 141, Tepebaşı.
porters and exotic onward desti- exhibition of Orientalist art.
Map 7 D4. Tel (0212) 334 99 00.
nations such as Baghdad. The  Tünel Beyoğlu. Open 10am–
This collection brings together
Grand Orient bar serves cocktails 7pm Tue–Thu & Sat, 10am–10pm Fri,
works by European artists
beneath its original chandeliers, noon–6pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan, first day inspired by the Ottoman world
while the patisserie attracts of Religious Holidays. 7 & (disabled from the 17th century to the
customers with its irresistible visitors enter free). - = early 19th century. The most
cakes and genteel ambience. ∑ peramuzesi.org.tr famous painting is the Tortoise
Former guests who have Trainer by Osman Hamdi Bey,
contributed to the hotel’s The Pera Museum was opened the late Ottoman noble who
reputation include Mata Hari, in June 2005 by the Suna and set up Istanbul's excellent
Greta Garbo, Jackie Onassis, İnan Kıraç Foundation, with the Archaeology Museum. It also
Sarah Bernhardt, Josephine aim of providing a cultural covers the last two centuries
Baker and Atatürk (see p33), centre. It is housed in a historic of the Ottoman Empire and
whose favourite room is building, formerly the Hotel provides an insight into upper-
now a museum. A room used Bristol. Notable collections class lives, customs and dress.
by the writer Agatha Christie include Ottoman weights and The Pera also provides spaces for
can be visited on request. measures, over 400 examples modern art exhibitions. Past
shows have included works by
Warhol and Miro. There is also
an in-house arts cinema.
3 Mevlevi Lodge
Mevlevi Tekkesi
Galip Dede Cad 15, Beyoğlu.
Map 7 D5. Tel (0212) 245 41 41.
 Tünel Beyoğlu. Open 9am–4pm
Wed–Mon. &
This lodge, today a fine museum,

belonged to the most famous
The peaceful courtyard of the Mevlevi Lodge sect of Sufis, who were known as
BEYOĞLU 107
the Whirling Dervishes. The 5 Church of SS

original dervishes were Peter and Paul
disciples of the mystical poet
and great Sufi master “Mevlana”
Sen Piyer Kilisesi
(Our Leader) Celaleddin Rumi, Galata Kulesi Sok 44, Karaköy.
who died in Konya, in central Map 3 D1. Tel (0212) 249 23 85.
 Tünel. Open 7am–5pm Mon–
Anatolia in 1273. Tucked away
off a street named after one Sat & 10:30am–noon Sun.
of the great poets of the sect,
Galip Dede, the museum is When their original church
housed in an 18th-century was requisitioned as a
lodge. Downstairs are a series mosque (to become the
of rooms that display well- nearby Arab Mosque) in
labelled objects used by the the early 16th century,
sect, from begging bowls the Dominican brothers of
to musical instruments and Galata moved to this site. The
calligraphy pens. The semahane, present building, dating from
or ritual dance floor, lies upstairs. 1841, was built by the Fossati
Performances are held on brothers, architects of Italian-
many Sundays throughout Swiss origin who also worked
the year, and information Doorway into the main courtyard of the on the restoration of Haghia
about them is displayed on Church of SS Peter and Paul Sophia (see pp74–7).
the notice boards at the entry According to Ottoman
of the lodge. Outside, in the when it was used to monitor regulations, the main façade
calm, terraced garden, stand shipping. After the conquest of of the building could not be
the ornate tombstones of Istanbul in 1453, the Ottomans directly on a road, so the
ordinary sect members and turned it into a prison and church is reached through a
prominent sheikhs (leaders). naval depot. In the 18th century, courtyard, the entrance to
aviation pioneer, Hezarfen which is via a tiny door on
Ahmet Çelebi, attached wings the street. Ring the bell to
4 Galata Tower to his arms and “flew” from gain admittance.
Galata Kulesi the tower to Üsküdar. The The church is built in
building was subsequently the style of a basilica, with
Büyük Hendek Sok, Beyoğlu. Map 3
used as a fire watchtower. four side altars. The cupola
D1. Tel (0212) 293 81 80.  Tünel
Beyoğlu. Open 9am–8pm daily.
The tower has been renovated over the choir is sky blue,
& Restaurant & show. Open 8pm– and on the ninth floor there studded with gold stars.
midnight daily. ∑ galatatower.net is a restaurant with nightly Mass is said here in Italian
shows of folk music and belly every morning.
The most recognizable feature dancing. The unmissable view
on the Golden Horn, the Galata from the top encompasses
Tower is 60 m- (196 ft-) high and the city’s skyline and beyond 6 Arab Mosque
topped by a conical tower. Its as far as Princes’ Islands Arap Camii
origins date from the 6th century (see p160).
Kalyon Sok 1, Galata. Map 3 D1.
 Tünel. Open prayer times only.
The Arabs after whom this

mosque was named were
Moorish refugees from Spain.
Many settled in Galata after their
expulsion from Andalusia follo-
wing the fall of Granada in 1492.
The church of SS Paul and Domi-
nic, built in the first half of the
14th century by Dominican
monks, was given to the settlers
for use as a mosque. It is an
unusual building for Istanbul: a
vast, strikingly rectangular Gothic
church with a tall square belfry
which now acts as a minaret. The
building has been restored several
times, but of all the converted
churches in the city it makes the
The distinctive Galata Tower, as seen from across the Golden Horn least convincing mosque.
a unique social registry. It is three sultans and after retiring

also home to one of Istanbul’s asked Murat III (see p29) where to
leading art galleries, the build his mosque. The sultan is
SALT Galata. said to have replied “in the
admiral’s domain, the sea”.
Taking him at his word, Kılıç Ali
9 Yeraltı Mosque Paşa re-claimed part of the
Yeraltı Camii Bosphorus for his complex.
Karantina Sok, Karaköy. Map 3 E1. The Turkish bath attached
 Tünel. Open daily. to the mosque has undergone
restoration and provides a
This mosque, literally “the wonderful alternative to the
underground mosque”, contains bathhouses in the Old City,
Azap Kapı Mosque, built by the great the shrines of two Muslim saints, for visitors in search of an
architect Sinan Abu Sufyan and Amiri Wahibi, authentic hamam experience.
who died during the first Arab
7 Azap Kapı siege of the city in the 7th
Mosque century (see p23). It was the q Tophane Fountain
discovery of their bodies in the Tophane Çeşmesi
Azap Kapı Camii cellar of an ancient Tophane İskele
Tersane Cad, Azapkapı. Map 2 C1. Byzantine fortification Cad, Tophane.
 Tünel Karaköy. @ 46H, 61B. in 1640 that led to the Map 7 E5. @ 25E,
Open prayer times only. creation of a shrine 56. v Tophane.
on the site and later,
Delightful though they are, in 1757, a mosque. Beside Kılıç Ali Paşa
this little mosque complex Mosque stands a
and fountain are somewhat beautiful but
0 Kılıç Ali
overshadowed by the stream abandoned
of traffic thundering over the Paşa Mosque Baroque fountain,
adjacent Atatürk Bridge on one Kılıç Ali built in 1732 by
side, and trains rumbling over Paşa Camii Mahmut I. With its
the Haliç bridge on the other. Necatibey Cad, Tophane.
elegant roof and
It was built in 1577–8 by Sinan Map 7 E5. @ 25E, 56. dome, it resembles
(see p93) for Grand Vizier Sokollu v Tophane. Open daily. Detail of a carved panel on the fountain of
Mehmet Paşa and is one of Tophane Fountain Ahmet III (see p62).
Sinan’s more attractive mosques. This mosque was built Each of the four
Unusually, the entrance is up a in 1580 by Sinan, who was walls is entirely covered in low-
flight of internal steps. by then in his 90s. The church relief floral carving.
of Haghia Sophia (see pp74–7) The name, meaning “cannon
provided the architect with foundry fountain”, comes from
8 Ottoman Bank
his inspiration. İznik tiles adorn the brick and stone foundry
Museum/SALT the mihrab and there is a building on the hill nearby.
Galata delightful deep porch before Established in 1453 by Mehmet
Osmanlı Bankası Müzesi the main door. Above the the Conqueror (see p28) and
entrance portal is an inscription rebuilt several times, the
Bankalar Cad 35–37, Karaköy. Map 3 giving the date when the foundry now hosts art and
D1. Tel (0212) 334 22 70.  Tünel
mosque was established. other exhibitions.
Karaköy. @ 25E, 56. Open 10am–
Kılıç Ali Paşa, who commis-
6pm daily. & - = ^
sioned the mosque, had a
∑ obmuze.com w Nusretiye Mosque
colourful life. Born in Italy, he
The Ottoman Bank Museum has was captured by Muslim pirates Nusretiye Camii
the most interesting collection and later converted to Islam in Meclis-i Mebusan Cad, Tophane.
of state archives in Turkey. the service of Süleyman the Map 7 E5. @ 25E, 56. Open daily.
Exhibits include Ottoman Magnificent (1520–66). He
banknotes, promissory notes served as a naval The baroque “Mosque of
from officials at the imperial commander Victory” was built in the
palace and photos of the under 1820s by Kirkor Balyan (see
Empire’s ornately p130), who went on to found
crafted branches. a dynasty of architects.
Outstanding are Commissioned by Mahmut II
the 6,000 to commemorate his abolition
photographs of the Janissary corps in 1826
of the bank’s (see p32), it faces the Selimiye
employees – Koranic inscription in İznik tiles at the Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque Barracks (see p134), across the
BEYOĞLU 109
r Çukurcuma t Taksim
Map 7 E4.  Taksim. Museum Map 7 E3. v Taksim.  Taksim.
of Innocence: Çukurcuma Cad, Taksim Republic Art Gallery: İstiklâl Cad
Dalgıç Çıkmazı, Beyoğlu. No. 2, Taksim. Tel (0212) 245 78 32.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Open daily.
∑ masumiyetmuzesi.org
Taksim Square is the focal point
This charming old quarter of Republican Istanbul. In 2013,
has become an important Gezi Park, located close to Taksim
centre for Istanbul’s furnishings Square, became the centre of
and antiques trades. The old anti-government protests. Taksim
warehouses and houses in means “water distribution centre”;
this district have been converted from the early 1700s, it was from
into shops and this site that water
showrooms, from the Belgrade
where modern Forest (see p160)
upholstery was distributed in
materials are the city. The original
The window-filled dome and arches of piled up in carved stone reservoir,
Nusretiye Mosque marble basins built in 1732 by
and antique Mahmut I, still
Bosphorus, which housed the cabinets. It is stands at the top
New Army that replaced the worth browsing of İstiklâl Caddesi.
Janissaries. The Empire-style here to discover In the southwest
swags and embellishments hidden treasures, Suzani textiles (see p212) on of the square is the
celebrate the sultan’s victory. ranging from sale in Çukurcuma 1928 Monument
The marble panel of calligraphy valuable paintings of Independence,
around the interior of the and prints and 19th-century by the Italian artist Canonica. It
mosque is particularly fine, Ottoman embroidery to shows Atatürk (see pp32–3) and
as is the pair of sebils (kiosks 1950s biscuit boxes. the other founding fathers of the
for serving drinks) outside. The district is also home modern Turkish Republic.
to Nobel prize winner Orhan Near the entrance to İstiklal
Pamuk’s Masumiyet Müzesi Caddesi is Taksim Cumhuriyet
e Istanbul Modern (Museum of Innocence). Set Sanat Galerisi (Taksim Republic
İstanbul Modern in a 19th-century house, the Art Gallery). As well as tempor-
museum celebrates Pamuk’s ary exhibitions, the gallery has
Meclis-i Mebusan Cad, Liman
İşletmeleri Sahası, Antrepo 4, Karaköy.
novel of the same name. The a permanent display of Istanbul
Map 3 F1. Tel (0212) 334 73 00. exhibits relate to the items landscapes by some of Turkey’s
v Tophane. @ 56. Open 10am– used and owned by the most important 20th-
6pm Tue–Sun. & 7 - 8 characters in the novel. century painters.
∑ istanbulmodern.org
Istanbul Modern, a new

building perched on the Golden
Horn, opened in 2005 as the
most upbeat and thoroughly
contemporary museum in Turkey.
It houses both permanent
collections and temporary
exhibitions, providing a show-
case for many of the eccentric
and talented personalities
who have shaped modern
art in Turkey from the early
20th century to the present
day. Many of the works are from
the private collection of the
Eczacıbaşı family, who founded
the museum. Exhibits include
abstract art, landscapes and
watercolours as well as a
sculpture garden and a
stunning display of black and
white photography. Flower sellers in Taksim Square
G R E AT E R I S TA N B U L 111
GREATER ISTANBUL
Away from the city centre there are many Eyüp, a focus of pilgrimage to Muslims,
sights which repay the journey to visit them. where you can visit a number of fine
Greater Istanbul has been divided into five mausoleums and walk up the hill to the
areas shown on the map below; each also historic café associated with the French
has its own map to help you get around. writer Pierre Loti. Following the Bosphorus
Closest to the centre are the mosques and northwards past Beyoğlu (see pp102–109)
churches of Fatih, Fener and Balat: most brings you to the Dolmabahçe Palace, one
conspicuously the gigantic Fatih Mosque. of the top sights of Istanbul. This opulent
Across the Golden Horn (see p91) from Balat fantasy created in the 19th century by Sultan
are two sights worth seeing: Aynalı Kavak Abdül Mecit I requires a lengthy visit.
Palace and a fascinating industrial museum. Beyond it is peaceful Yıldız Park, containing
The Theodosian Walls, stretching from the yet more beautiful palaces and pavilions. Not
Golden Horn to the Sea of Marmara, are all visitors to Istanbul make it to the Asian
one of the city’s most impressive monu- side, but if you have half a day to spare
ments. Along these walls stand several consider taking the short ferry trip from
ancient palaces and churches: particularly Eminönü (see pp242–3). Its attractions include
interesting is the Church of St Saviour in some splendid mosques, a handsome railway
Chora, with its stunning Byzantine mosaics. station and a small museum dedicated to
Beyond the walls, up the Golden Horn, is British nurse, Florence Nightingale.
Beyond Taksim
see pp124–31
Şişli
Eyüp
see pp122–23 Beşiktaş
Teşvikiye
Feriköy
Eyüp
s
Taksim ru
o
h
sp
o
Fatih, Fener & Balat
Beyoğlu B
see pp112–15
Balat
Üsküdar
Topkapı
Fatih
Sirkeci
Kocamustafapasa Sultanahmet
Kadiköy
Along the City Walls Sea o f

see pp116–21 M arm ara The Asian Side
see pp132–35
Key
Central Istanbul
0 kilometres 1
Greater Istanbul
0 miles 1
Main road
Motorway
Other road
City Walls
Ferry route
Modest interiors of the Church of St Saviour in Chora For map symbols see back flap
112 G R E AT E R I S TA N B U L
Fatih, Fener and Balat 2 Church of

St Stephen of
A visit to these neighbourhoods is a reminder that for centuries
after the Muslim conquest (see p28), Jews and Christians made
the Bulgars
up around 40 per cent of Istanbul’s population. Balat was Bulgar Kilisesi
home to Greek-speaking Jews from the Byzantine era onwards; Mürsel Paşa Cad 85, Balat.
Map 1 C1. @ 55T, 99A.
Sephardic Jews from Spain joined them in the 15th century. Closed for renovation.
Fener became a Greek enclave in the early 16th century and
many wealthy residents rose to positions of prominence in Astonishingly, this entire church
the Ottoman Empire. Hilltop Fatih is linked to the city’s radical was cast in iron, even the internal
Islamic tradition and you will see far more devout Muslims here columns and galleries. It was
created in Vienna in 1871, shipped
than anywhere else in Istanbul. All three areas are residential, all the way to the Golden Horn
their maze of streets the preserve of washing lines and (see p91) and assembled on its
children playing. shore. The church was needed
for the Bulgarian community
who had broken away from the
B AL
Sights at a Glance authority of the Greek Orthodox

AT
PU
VA
E Sİ Patriarchate just up the hill.

ŞM 1 Ahrida Synagogue
ÇE
R
Today, it is still used by this

İ SK
ÇÜ K
2 Church of St Stephen of
EL
SO community, who keep the marble

K ÜR K
ES
İC
Balat the Bulgars tombs of the first Bulgarian

AD
F ET 3 Church of the Pammakaristos patriarchs permanently decorated

H İY
EC
AD 4 Church of St Mary of with flowers. The church stands
the Mongols in a pretty little park that is
MANYA D
N
LTA D
5 Greek Orthodox Patriarchate dotted with trees and flowering
CA
İZA SU CA
S
DE
LİM İ 6 Mosque of Selim I shrubs and which runs down to
E
S ES
Fener the edge of the Golden Horn.
Sİ
DD 7 Mosque of the Holy Mantle

DE
CA
D
CA
FE LİM 8 Church of Constantine Lips

VZ SE
L İÇ
İ Z 9 Column of Marcian
VU
HA
YA
PA
0 Fatih Mosque
Ş A
Unkapanı
D
CA q Church of the Pantocrator
D
CA
İN
CA
TT
DD
SE L
BO
SA
ES
M
AM
ŞE 0 metres 500
RI
AK SL
GÜ
İ
ZE
0 yards 500
M
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AD
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CA
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D
CA
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D Key
RI
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DE
EN R
ŞL
BU
D LA Main road
AK CI
ER
CA
LI D
HA Fatih Other road
VA
ATATÜRK
TA
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CA
D
1 Ahrida walls and ceilings, dating from

Synagogue the late 17th century, have been The Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars,
restored to their Baroque glory. wholly made of iron
Ahrida Sinagogu Pride of place, however, goes to
Gevgili Sok, Balat. Map 1 C1. @ 55T, the central Holy Ark, covered in
99A. Open by appointment. ^ rich tapestries, which contains 3 Church of the
rare holy scrolls. Pammakaristos
The name of Istanbul’s oldest During an explosion of fervour Fethiye Camii
and most beautiful synagogue is that swept the city’s Jewish
a corruption of Ohrid, a town in population in the 17th century, Fethiye Cad, Draman. Map 1 C2.
@ 90, 90B. Open 9am–4:30pm
Macedonia from which its early the religious leader Shabbetai
Thu–Tue. &
congregation came. It was foun- Zevi (1629–76), a self-proclaimed
ded before the Muslim conquest messiah, started preaching at this
of the city in 1453 and, with a synagogue. He was banished This Byzantine church is
capacity for up to 500 worship- from the city and later converted one of the hidden secrets
pers, has been in constant use to Islam. However, a significant of Istanbul. It is rarely visited
ever since. However, tourists can number of Jews held that Zevi’s despite the important role it
only visit by prior arrangement conversion was a subter fuge has played in the history of
with a guided tour company (see and his followers, the Sabbatians, the city, as well as its
p227). The synagogue’s painted exist to this day. breathtaking series of mosaics.
FAT İ H , F E N E R A N D B A L AT 113
5 Greek Orthodox
Patriarchate
Ortodoks Patrikhanesi
Sadrazam Ali Paşa Cad 35, Fener.
Tel (0212) 525 54 16. @ 55T, 99A.
Open 9am–5pm daily. 8
This walled complex has been

the seat of the patriarch of the
Greek Orthodox Church since
the early 17th century. Though
nominally head of the whole
church, the patriarch is now
shepherd to a diminishing flock
in and around Istanbul.
As you walk up the steps to
enter the Patriarchate through a
Façade of the late Byzantine Church of the Pammakaristos side door you will see that the
main door has been welded
For over 100 years after the 4 Church of shut. This was done in memory
Ottoman conquest it housed St Mary of the of Patriarch Gregory V, who was
the Greek Orthodox Patriar- hanged here for treason in 1821
chate, but was converted into Mongols after encouraging the Greeks to
a mosque in the late 16th Kanlı Kilise overthrow Ottoman rule at the
century by Murat III (see p34). Tevkii Cafer Mektebi Sok, Fener. Map 1 start of the Greek War of
He named it the Mosque C2. Tel (0212) 521 71 39. @ 55T, 99A. Independence (1821–32).
of Victory to commemorate Open by appointment. Antagonism between the
his conquests of Georgia Turkish and Greek communities
and Azerbaijan. Consecrated in the late 13th worsened with the Greek
The charming exterior century, the Church of St Mary occupation of parts of Turkey in
is obviously Byzantine, of the Mongols is the only Greek the 1920s (see p33). There were
with its alternating stone Orthodox church in Istanbul anti-Greek riots in 1955, and in
and brick courses and finely to have remained continuously the mid-1960s many Greek
carved marble details. The in the hands of the Greek residents were expelled. Today
main body of the building community since the Byzantine the clergy here is protected by a
is the working mosque, era. Its immunity from conversion metal detector at the entrance.
while the extraordinary into a mosque was decreed in The Patriarchate centres on
mosaics are in a side an order signed by Mehmet the the basilica-style Church of
chapel, which today is a Conqueror (see p28). A copy of St George, which dates back
museum with a small this is kept by the church to to 1720. Yet the church contains
admission charge. this day. much older relics and furniture.
Dating from the 14th The church gets its name The patriarch’s throne, the high
century, the great Byzantine from the woman who founded structure to the right of the
renaissance (see p27), the it, Maria Palaeologina, an nave, is thought to be Byzantine,
mosaics show holy figures illegitimate Byzantine princess while the pulpit on the left is
isolated in a sea of gold, a who was married off to a Mongol adorned with fine Middle
reflection of the heavens. khan, Abagu, and lived piously Eastern wooden inlay and
From the centre of the with him in Persia for 15 years. Orthodox icons.
main dome, Christ Pantocrator On her husband’s
(“the All-Powerful”), assassination,
surrounded by the Old she returned to
Testament prophets, stares Constantinople, built
solemnly down. In the apse this church and lived
another figure of Christ, out her days in it
seated on a jewel-encrusted as a nun.
throne, gives his benediction. Ring the bell
On either side are portraits of the compound to
of the Virgin Mary and John gain entry. The care-
the Baptist beseeching takers, a family from
Christ. They are overlooked ancient Antioch in
by the four archangels, Turkey, are usually
while the side apses are around. Donations
filled with other saintly figures. are appreciated. Church of St George in the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate
7 Mosque of the of the city in 1261 (see p26),

Holy Mantle Empress Theodora, wife of
Michael VIII Palaeologus (see
Hırka-i Şerif Camii pp26–7), added a second church.
Keçeciler Cad, Karagümrük. Map 1 B3. She also commissioned a
@ 28, 87, 90, 91. Open daily. funerary chapel, where she
and her sons were buried.
Built in the Empire Style in This unusual history has given
1850, this mosque was designed the structure its present rambling
to house a cloak (hırka) in the appearance. In an idiosyncratic
imperial collection which touch, there are also four tiny
once belonged to and was worn chapels perched on the roof
by the Prophet Moham- around the main dome.
med. This resides in a Another highlight is
sanctuary directly the building’s eastern
behind the mihrab. exterior wall. This
The mosque’s is decorated with
minarets are a tour de force of
in the form of brick friezes, typical
Classical columns, hallmarks of
and its balconies Byzantine churches
İznik tile panel capping a window in the styled like of this period. When
Mosque of Selim I Corinthian capitals. the church was con-
The interior of the verted into a mosque
6 Mosque of octagonal prayer hall, Knocker, Mosque of in 1496, it adopted the
Selim I meanwhile, has a the Holy Mantle name Fenari İsa, or
plethora of decorative the Lamp of Jesus. This
Yavuz Sultan Selim Camii
marble. Abdül Mecit I, the was in honour of İsa (Turkish
Yavuz Selim Cad, Fener. Map 1 C2. mosque’s patron, was jointly for Jesus), the leader of a Sufi
@ 55T, 90, 90B, 99A. Open daily. brotherhood (see p106) who
responsible for the design
of its calligraphic frieze. worshipped here at that time.
This much-admired mosque Inside the mosque, which is still
is also known locally as Yavuz in use today, are well-restored
Sultan Mosque: Yavuz, “the 8 Church of capitals and decorated cornices.
Grim”, being the nickname Constantine Lips
the infamous Selim acquired Fenari İsa Camii
(see p28). It is one of the most 9 Column of
Vatan Cad, Fatih. Map 1 B4. @ 90B.
beautiful mosques in Istanbul, Open daily.
Marcian
seemingly at odds with the bar- Kız Taşı
baric reputation of the sultan. This 10th-century monastic
The mosque, built between church, dedicated to the İskender Paşa, Saraçhane. Map 1 C4
1519 and 1522, sits alone on a Immaculate Mother of God, (2 A3). @ 28, 87, 90, 91.
hill beside a sunken car park, was founded by Constantine
once the Byzantine Cistern of Lips Dungarios, a commander Standing in a little square, this
Aspar. It has been beautifully of the Byzantine fleet. Following 5th-century Byzantine column
restored, but is rarely visited as the Byzantine reconquest was once surmounted by a
it does not fall on the beaten statue of the Emperor Marcian
track. At the centre of this lovely (AD 450–57). On its base you can
garden is an octagonal, domed still see a pair of Nikes, Greek
fountain, surrounded by trees winged goddesses of victory,
filled with chirruping birds. holding an inscribed medallion.
The windows set into the Interestingly, the column’s
porticoes in the courtyard are Turkish name translates as
capped by early İznik tiles (see the Maiden’s Column, suggesting
p163). These were made by the that it was mistaken for the
cuerda seca technique, in which famous Column of Venus.
each colour is separated during According to legend, this
the firing process, thus affording column was said to sway at the
the patterns greater definition. passing of an impure maid. It
Similar tiles lend decorative originally stood nearby and is
effect to the impressive yet thought to have been employed
simple prayer hall, with its fine as one of the largest columns
mosque furniture (see pp40–41) Byzantine brickwork exterior of the in the Süleymaniye Mosque
and stunning shallow dome. Church of Constantine Lips (see pp92–3).
FAT İ H , F E N E R A N D B A L AT 115
q Church of the
Pantocrator
Zeyrek Camii
İbadethane Sok, Küçükpazar.
Map 2 B2. @ 28, 61B, 87.
Open prayer times daily. 7
Empress Irene, the wife of John

II Comnenus (see p21), founded
the Church of the Pantocrator
(“Christ the Almighty”) during
the 12th century. This hulk of
Byzantine masonry was once
the centrepiece of one of the
city’s most important religious
foundations, the Monastery of
the Pantocrator. As well as a
monastery and church, the com-
plex included a hospice for the
elderly, an asylum and a hospital.
In this respect it prefigured the
social welfare system provided
by the great imperial mosque
complexes that the Ottomans
later built in the city (see p40).
The church, now a mosque,
boasts a magnificent figurative
marble floor. It is composed of
Chandelier hanging in the light and airy interior of Fatih Mosque three interlinked chapels. The
one with the highest dome was
0 Fatih Mosque the ablutions fountain, the main built by Empress Irene. Emperor
Fatih Camii gate into the prayer hall and, John II added another as a
inside, the mihrab. Two exquisite mortuary chapel when Irene died
Macar Kardeşler Cad, Fatih. Map 1 C3. forms of 15th-century decoration in 1124, and he later filled the
@ 28, 87, 90, 91. Open daily.
can be seen over the windows area between with a third apsed
in the porticoes: İznik tiles made chapel. The rest of the Comnenus
A spacious outer courtyard using the cuerda seca technique dynasty and many of the Palaeo-
surrounds this vast Baroque and lunettes adorned with logus imperial family were
mosque, which is the third calligraphic marble inlay. interred within these chapels.
major structure on this site. Inside the prayer hall, stencilled Shortly after the Muslim
The first was the Church of patterns decorate the domes, conquest in 1453 (see p28), the
the Holy Apostles (see p25), while the lower level of the walls building was converted into a
the burial place of most of is revetted with yet more tiles – mosque. It has recently under-
the Byzantine emperors. When although these are inferior to gone major restoration work. A
Mehmet the Conqueror (see those used in the porticoes. caretaker may let you in outside
p28) came to construct a The tomb of Mehmet the prayer times in the afternoons.
mosque here, the church’s Conqueror stands behind
crumbling remains provided a the prayer hall, near that of
symbolic location. But the first his consort Gülbahar. His
Fatih Mosque collapsed in an sarcophagus and turban are
earthquake in 1766, and most both appropriately large. It
of what you see today was the is a place of enormous gravity,
work of Mehmet Tahir Ağa, the always busy with supplicants.
chief imperial architect under If you pay a visit to the
Mustafa III. Many of the buildings mosque on a Wednesday, you
he constructed around the will also see the weekly market
prayer hall, including eight (see p214) which turns the
Koranic colleges (medreses) streets around it into a circus
and a hospice, still stand. of commerce. From tables piled
The only parts of Mehmet high with fruit and vegetables
the Conqueror’s mosque to to lorries loaded with unspun
have survived are the three wool, this is a real spectacle, Church of the Pantocrator, built by Empress
porticoes of the courtyard, even if you don’t buy anything. Irene in the 12th century
Along the City Walls

Istanbul’s Theodosian Walls are one of the most impressive
remains of the city’s Byzantine past. Pierced by monumental
gates and strengthened by towers, they encompass the city
centre in a great arc, stretching all the way from Yedikule, on
the Sea of Marmara, to Ayvansaray, on the Golden Horn (see
p91). The suburbs that lie adjacent to the walls, particularly
Edirnekapı and Topkapı, are mainly working-class, residential
districts, interspersed with areas of wasteland which are
unsafe to explore alone. Dotted around these suburbs,
however, are important remnants of the city’s past, particularly
the Byzantine period. The outstanding sight here is the
Church of St Saviour in Chora (see pp120–21), with its
beautifully preserved mosaics and frescoes.
Silivrikapı, one of the gateways through the

Ayvansaray Theodosian Walls
M
Bayrampaşa-
ÜR
Maltepe
LU
54 of the towers but these
SE
YO
L
were immediately rebuilt,

PA
BA F E TH
E
ĞL
ŞA
VR
AD
AN İYE
FEV
CA under threat of the advancing

ÇE
TI
I C
CA
DD
Zİ
AP
ES Attila the Hun. Subsequently

CA
EK
ÜSÜ
İ
PA
YO
İRN
D
ŞA
LU the walls resisted sieges by

PR
ED
Sights at a Glance
KÖ
Topkapı Arabs, Bulgarians, Russians

PI
Ulubatlı
KA
VA 1 Theodosian Walls and Turks. Even the determined

İ
ZİÇ
TA
TO
N
ĞA
CA 2 Yedikule Fortress armies of the Fourth Crusade

BO
DD
ES 3 Church of St John of Studius (see p26) only managed to
LONDRA ASFALTI Pazartekke İ
Topkapı Emniyet- 4 Shrine of Zoodochus Pege storm the ramparts along the
Fatih
Topkapı Mİ Golden Horn, while the land
LLE 5 Gazi Ahmet Paşa Mosque
I
T
MEVLANAKAP
CA walls stood firm.

DD
ES
6 Panorama 1453 Museum
İ Mehmet the Conqueror
7 Mihrimah Mosque
Fındıkzade 8 Church of St Saviour in Chora
finally breached the walls in
pp120–21 May 1453 (see p28).
VEZİR CAD
SİLİVRİKAPI
YOLU
Successive Ottoman
9 Palace of the Porphyrogenitus
AD sultans then kept the walls in
RİKAPI C 0 Blachernae Palace
SİLİV good repair until the end of
SEYİT
M CA
D 0 metres 800 the 17th century.
NİZA Mevlanakapı Large stretches of the walls,
E
0 yards 800
EMİRHAN
particularly around Belgratkapı

Key
(Belgrade Gate) have been
BELGRATKAPI D
YOLU
Motorway rebuilt. Byzantine scholars

D
CA
Main road have criticized the restoration

DY
E
for insensitive use of modern

NN
Other road
KE
building materials, but the

City walls
new sections do give
you an idea of how the
1 Theodosian Walls the Golden Horn, the walls are walls used to look. Many,
Teodos II Surları built in layers of red tile although not all, of the
alternating with limestone gateways are still in
From Yedikule to Ayvansaray.
blocks. Different sections good repair.
Map 1 A1.  Topkapı, Ulubatlı.
can be reached by metro, tram, Mehmet the Conqueror
With its 11 fortified gates train or bus; but to see their directed his heaviest cannon
and 192 towers, this great whole length you will need to at the St Romanus and Charsius
chain of double walls sealed take a taxi or dolmuş (see p238) gates. Under the Ottomans,
Constantinople’s landward along the main road that runs the former became known
side against invasion for outside them. as Topkapı, the Gate of the
more than a thousand The walls were built in the Cannon (not to be confused
years. Extending for a period AD 412–22, during the with Topkapı Palace, see pp56–
distance of 6.5 km (4 miles) reign of Theodosius II (408–50). 61). Unfortunately, a section of
from the Sea of Marmara to In 447 an earthquake destroyed walls close to this gate was
ALONG THE CIT Y WALLS 117
The moat
Outer wall The peribolos, Main or
prevented an
enemy moving a road, was inner wall
artillery within Engines to hurl used for troop
range of the “Greek Fire” (see p23) movements.
main wall. were placed on top
of the towers.
The towers of the outer

wall alternate with those
of the inner wall to create a
continuous line of defence.
Cross-section of the Theodosian Walls

The double walls, towers and moat managed to
thwart attackers for almost 1,000 years.
demolished in the 1950s to investiture of a new emperor or foreign envoys and others who
make way for a road, Millet in celebration of a successful fell foul of the sultan. These
Caddesi. The Charsius Gate military campaign. When it was hapless individuals carved their
(now called Edirnekapı), first built, the gate was covered names, dates and other details
Silivrikapı, Yeni Mevlanakapı in gold plate and the façade on the walls and some of these
and other original gates still decorated with sculptures, inscriptions are still visible.
give access to the city. including a statue of a winged Executions were carried out in
The Yedikule Gate Victory, four bronze elephants Yedikule Castle, in the northern
(which stands beside the and an image of Emperor of the two towers flanking the
fortress of the same name) has Theodosius himself. Golden Gate. Among those exe-
an imperial Byzantine eagle In the 15th century, cuted here was the 17-year-old
(see p27) carved above its Mehmet the Conqueror added Osman II (see p35). In 1622 he was
main archway. the three tall, round towers that dragged to Yedikule by his own
are not part of the land walls, Janissaries (see p129), after four
and the connecting curtain years of misrule, which included,
2 Yedikule Fortress walls, to complete the fortress. it is alleged, using his own
Yedikule Müzesi After viewing the castle pages as targets for
from the outside, you can archery practice.
Kule Meydanı 4, Yedikule.
enter through a doorway in The walkway around the
Tel (0212) 585 89 33. @ 31, 80, 93T.
the northeastern wall. The tower ramparts is accessible via a
Open 9am–6pm daily.
immediately to your left as you steep flight of stone steps. It
Yedikule, the “Fortress of the enter is known as the yazılı kule, offers good views of the land
Seven Towers”, is built on “the tower with inscriptions”. walls and nearby suburbs,
to the southern section of the This was used as a prison for and also of the cemeteries.
Theodosian Walls. Its seven
towers are connected by thick
walls to make a five-sided
fortification. One of the sides,
with four towers spaced along
it, is formed by a stretch of the
land walls themselves.
The fortress as it is today
incorporates both Byzantine and
Ottoman features. The two stout,
square marble towers built into
the land walls once flanked the
Golden Gate (now blocked up),
the triumphal entrance into
medieval Byzantium (see p24)
built by Theodosius II. Imperial
processions would enter the city
through this gate to mark the Aerial view of Yedikule Fortress with the Sea of Marmara behind
3 Church of St John the Gazi Ahmet Paşa Mosque,

of Studius also known as Kara Ahmet
Paşa. This lovely building,
İmrahor Camii with its peaceful leafy courtyard
İmam Aşir Sok, Yedikule. @ 80, 80B, and graceful proportions,
80T.  Kazlıçeşme. is one of Sinan’s (see p93)
lesser- known achievements.
Istanbul’s oldest surviving church, He built it in 1554 for Kara
St John of Studius, is now a mere Ahmet Paşa, a grand vizier
shell consisting only of its outer of Süleyman the Magnificent
walls. It is locked and can only be (see p28).
viewed from the outside, though The courtyard is surrounded
it may be rebuilt as a mosque by the cells of a medrese and
in the future. a dershane, or main classroom.
The church was completed The Shrine of Zoodochus Pege, founded on Attractive apple-green and
in AD 463 by Studius, a Roman a sacred spring yellow İznik tiles (see p163)
patrician who served as consul grace the porch, while blue-
during the reign of Emperor have miraculous powers. The fish and-white ones are found
Marcian (450–57). Originally swimming in it are supposed to on the east wall of the
connected to the most powerful have arrived though a miracle prayer hall. These tiles date
monastery in the Byzantine which occurred shortly before from the mid-16th century.
Empire, in the late 8th century the fall of Constantinople (see Of the three galleries, the
it was a spiritual and intellectual p28). They are said to have leapt wooden ceiling under the
centre under the rule of Abbot into the spring from a monk’s west one is elaborately
Theodore, who was buried in the frying pan on hearing him painted in red, blue, gold
church’s garden. declare that a Turkish invasion of and black.
In the 15th century the church Constantinople was as likely as
housed a university and was fish coming back to life.
converted into a mosque. The The spring was probably the 6 Panorama 1453
building was abandoned in 1894 site of an ancient sanctuary of History Museum
when it was severely damaged Artemis. Later, with the
by an earthquake. arrival of Christianity, a
Panorama 1453
The church is a perfect basilica, church, dedicated Tarihi Müzesi
with a single apse at the east to the Virgin Mary, Topkapi Kültür Parkı.
end, preceded by a narthex and was built around Tel (0212) 415 14
a courtyard. It has a magnificent it. The spring 53. v Topkapı.
entrance portal, with carved was popular ∑ panoramik
Corinthian capitals and a throughout the Tilework over medrese doorway at muze.com
sculpted architrave and cornice. Byzantine era, Kara Ahmet Paşa Mosque
especially on This museum
Ascension Day, when the recreates a vivid picture of
4 Shrine of emperor would visit it. The the final day in the historic
Zoodochus Pege church was destroyed and rebuilt Ottoman siege of the city in
many times over the years by 1453, through realistic sound
Balıklı Kilise various Byzantine emperors, but effects, over 10,000 painted
Seyit Nizam Cad 3, Silivrikapı. Tel the present one dates figures and numerous models
(0212) 582 30 81.  Kazlıçeşme. from 1833. The inner courtyard forming a tableau vivant.
@ 93T. Open 8am–4pm daily. is filled with tombs of bishops In addition to this, there are
and patriarchs of the Greek Byzantine defenders manning
The Fountain of Zoodochus Pege Orthodox Church. the battlements, “Greek fire”
(“Life-Giving Spring”) is built over erupting among Ottoman
Istanbul’s most famous sacred troops, cannonballs shattering
spring, which is 5 Gazi Ahmet previously impregnable
believed to Paşa Mosque walls, and scaling ladders
being thrown into a ditch.
Gazi Ahmet Paşa Camii Situated close to the
Undeğirmeni Sok, Fatma Theodisian Walls where
Sultan.  Ulubatlı. Mehmet the Conqueror
v Topkapı. @ 93T. concentrated his forces
Open Prayer times only. and weapons, the focus
of the museum is a large
One of the most dome depicting the
worthwhile detours entire length of the walls
Ruins of the Church of St John of Studius along the city walls is to in a 360-degree panorama.
7 Mihrimah decorated with red brick and the height of production in

Mosque white marble and has under- İznik. Cezri Kasım Paşa Mosque
gone major renovations. Once a in Eyüp (see p123) has some fine
Mihrimah Camii mere shell, it now has a roof examples of these tiles.
Sulukule Cad, Edirnekapı. Map 1 A2. and windows have been
@ 28, 87, 91. Open daily. installed. It might eventually be
turned into a conference centre. 0 Blachernae
An imposing monument The palace, also known as Palace
located just inside the city Tekfur Palace, dates from the late
walls, the Mihrimah Mosque Byzantine era and is the only Anemas Zindanları
complex was built by Sinan surviving palace from this İvaz Ağa Cad, Ayvansaray.
between 1562 and 1565. period. Its exact age is @ 55T, 99A. g Ayvansaray.
Mihrimah, the debatable since the
daughter of technique of alter- As the city walls approach
Süleyman the nating stone with the Golden Horn you come to
Magnificent (see three courses of the scant remains of Blachernae
p28), was then the brick is typical of Palace. These consist of a tower
recently widowed the 10th century, in the city walls, known as the
wife of Rüstem whereas its geo- Prison of Anemas, a terrace to
Paşa, a grand metrical designs the east (the present site of
vizier who gave were common in the İvaz Efendi Mosque), and
his name to the the 14th century. another tower to the south of
tiled mosque near It was most likely the terrace, known as the Tower
the Spice Bazaar constructed as an of Isaac Angelus.
(see pp90–91). annexe of nearby The origins of the palace date
This mosque Blachernae as far back as AD 500, when it
rests on a plat- Palace. These two was an occasional residence for
form, occupying palaces became imperial visitors to the shrine
the highest point Stained-glass window in the the main resi- of Blachernae. It was the great
in the city. Mihrimah Mosque dences of the Comnenus emperors (see p23)
The building is imperial sover- who rebuilt the structure in the
square in shape, with four eigns in the last two centuries 12th century, transforming it
strong turrets at its corners, and before the fall of Byzantium in into a magnificent palace.
is surmounted by a 37-m 1453 (see p28). The remains of the marble
(121-ft) high dome. The single During the reign of Ahmet III decoration and wall frescoes in
minaret is tall and slender, so (1703–30, see p29) the last the Anemas tower indicate that
much so that it has twice been remaining İznik potters (see this was probably an imperial
destroyed by earthquakes. p163) moved to the palace. residence. Although you can
The interior is illuminated by However, by this time their skills walk around the site, you will
numerous windows, some of were in decline and the tiles be unable to gain access into
which have stained glass. The made here never acquired the the towers unless the caretaker
supporting arches of the sultan’s excellence of those created at is there.
loge (see p41) have been skilfully
painted to resemble green-and-
white marble. The carved marble
minbar is also impressive.
8 Church of St
Saviour in Chora
See pp120–21.
9 Palace of the
Porphyrogenitus
Tekfur Sarayı
Şişehane Cad, Edirnekapı. Map 1 B1.
Tel (0212) 522 175. @ 87, 90, 126.
Open daily.
This beautiful Byzantine palace,

has a three-storey façade Brick and marble façade in the Palace of the Porphyrogenitus
8 Church of St Saviour in Chora

Kariye Müzesi
Some of the very finest Byzantine mosaics and frescoes
can be found in the Church of St Saviour in Chora. Little is
known of the early history of the church, although its name
“in Chora”, which means “in the country”, suggests that
the church originally stood in a rural setting. The present
church dates from the 11th century. Between 1315 and 1321
it was remodelled and the mosaics and frescoes added by
Theodore Metochites, a theologian, philosopher and one
of the elite Byzantine officials of his day.
Exterior of the Church of St Saviour
in Chora
The crown of the southern dome
The Genealogy of Christ is occupied by a figure of Christ.
Theodore Metochites, who In the dome’s flutes are two rows The Life of the Virgin
restored St Saviour, wrote that of his ancestors: Adam to Jacob All but one of the 20 mosaics
his mission was to relate how “the ranged above the 12 sons of in the inner narthex depicting
Lord himself became a mortal Jacob. In the northern dome, the Life of the Virgin are well
on our behalf”. He takes the there is a central image of the preserved. This cycle is based
Genealogy of Christ as his starting Virgin and Child, with the kings mainly on the apocryphal
point: the mosaics in the two of the House of David in the Gospel of St James, written in
domes of the inner narthex upper row and lesser ancestors the 2nd century, which gives
portray 66 of Christ’s forebears. of Christ in the lower row. an account of the Virgin’s life.
This was popular in the Middle
Ages and was a rich source of
material for ecclesiastical artists.
Among the events shown
are the first seven steps of the
Virgin, the Virgin entrusted to
Joseph and the Virgin receiving
bread from an angel.
The Infancy of Christ

Scenes from the Infancy of
Christ, based largely on the
New Testament, occupy the
semicircular panels of the
outer narthex. They begin on
Mosaic showing Christ and his ancestors, in the southern dome of the inner narthex the north wall of the outer
Guide to the Mosaics and Frescoes
Outer
narthex
Entrance
Nave
Outer narthex looking east
Inner
narthex
Entrance to nave Parecclesion

Key
The Genealogy of Christ Christ’s Ministry
The Life of the Virgin Other Mosaics
The Infancy of Christ The Frescoes
Outer narthex looking west
narthex with a VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

scene of Joseph
being visited by an Practical Information
angel in a dream. Kariye Camii Sok, Edirnekapı.
Subsequent panels Map 1 B1. Tel (0212) 631 92 41.
include Mary and Open 9am–6pm Thu–Tue. & =
Joseph’s Journey Transport
to Bethlehem, @ 28, 86 or 90, then
their Enrolment 5 minutes’ walk
for Taxation, the The Enrolment for Taxation
Nativity of Christ and,
finally, Herod ordering the the church. The Virgin is depicted which reflect the purpose of
Massacre of the Innocents. laid out on a bier, watched over the parecclesion as a place of
by the Apostles, with Christ burial – is the Anastasis, in the
seated behind. Other devotional semidome above the apse. In it,
Christ’s Ministry panels in the two narthexes the central figure of Christ, the
While many of the mosaics in include one, on the east wall vanquisher of death, is shown
this series are badly damaged, of the south bay of the dragging Adam and Eve out of
some beautiful panels remain. inner narthex, of the their tombs. Under Christ’s feet
The cycle occupies the Deësis, depicting Christ are the gates of hell, while Satan
vaults of the seven with the Virgin Mary lies before him. The fresco in the
bays of the outer and, unusually, vault overhead depicts The Last
narthex and some without St John. Judgment, with the souls of the
of the south bay of Another, in the saved on the right and those of
the inner narthex. inner narthex the damned to the left.
The most striking over the door
mosaic is the into the nave,
portrayal of is of Theodore
Christ’s tempta- Theodore Metochites presents Metochites
tion in the St Saviour in Chora to Christ himself, shown
wilderness, in wearing a large
the second bay of the turban, and humbly presenting
outer narthex. the restored church as an
offering to Christ.
Other Mosaics
There are three panels in the The Frescoes
nave of the church, one of The frescoes in the parecclesion
which, above the main door (side chapel) are thought to
from the inner narthex, illustrates have been painted just after the
the Dormition of the Virgin. This mosaics were completed,
mosaic, protected by a marble probably in around 1320. The Figure of Christ from the Anastasis fresco in
frame, is the best preserved in most engaging of the frescoes – the parecclesion
Inner narthex looking east Parecclesion and outer narthex looking south
Inner narthex looking west Parecclesion and outer narthex looking north
Eyüp
As the burial place of Eyüp Ensari, the standard bearer of the
Prophet Mohammed, the village of Eyüp is a place of pilgrimage
for Muslims from all over the world. Its sacrosanct status has
kept it a peaceful place of contemplation, far removed from the
squalid effects of industrialization elsewhere on the Golden
Horn (see p91). The wealthy elite established mosques and street
fountains in the village but, above all, they chose Eyüp as a place
of burial. Their grand mausoleums line the streets surrounding
Eyüp Sultan Mosque, while the cypress groves in the hills above Gateway to the Baroque Complex of Valide
Sultan Mihrişah
the village are filled with the gravestones of ordinary people.
2 Complex of Valide
Sultan Mihrişah
SOK
Sİ
Sights at a Glance
DE
D
Mihrişah Valide
CA
DI
Ğ
1 Pierre Loti Café

RYA
Sultan Külliyesi
RAĞ
KA
2 Complex of Valide
HTA
Seyit Reşat Cad. @ 39, 55T, 99A.

Sultan Mihrişah
SİLA
Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun.

IDRIS
3 Eyüp Sultan Mosque

4 Tomb of Sokollu Mehmet
KÖŞ
Most of the northern side of

KÜ
Paşa
the street leading from Eyüp
CAD
5 Zal Mahmut Paşa Mosque

Mosque’s northern gate is
Eyüp occupied by the largest Baroque
0 metres 250
külliye (see p40) in Istanbul,
0 yards 250 although unusually it is not
centred on a mosque. Built for
Mihrişah, mother of Selim III
Eyüp
(see p35), the külliye was
FESH
VD HZ.
H ALID BLVD
BL
completed in 1791.
A NE
N
TA
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UL
Key The complex includes the

PS
CADDESİ
YÜ
E ornate marble tomb of Mihrişah

PA
Main road
ŞA
Düğmeciler and a soup kitchen, which is still

CAD
Other road in use today. There is also a

beautiful grilled fountain (sebil),
from which an attendant once
1 Pierre Loti Café Aziyade, about their affair. served water and refreshing
Piyer Loti Kahvehanesi The café is prettily decked drinks of sweet sherbet to
out with 19th-century passers-by.
Gümüşsuyu Karyağdı Sok 5,
Eyüp. Tel (0212) 581 26 96.
furniture and the waiters
@ 39, 55T, 99A. Open 8:30am– wear period clothing.
midnight daily. The path up to the café 3 Eyüp Sultan
passes by a picturesque array Mosque
This famous café stands of tombstones, most of which
at the top of the hill in Eyüp date from the Ottoman era.
Eyüp Sultan Camii
Cemetery, about 20 minutes’ Just before the café on the Camii Kebir Sok. Tel (0212) 564 73 68.
walk or short funicular ride right, a few tall, uninscribed @ 39, 55T, 99A. Open daily.
up Karyağdı Sokağı from tombstones mark the graves
Eyüp Mosque, from where of executioners. Mehmet the Conqueror built
it commands sweeping the original mosque on this
views down over the site in 1458, five years after his
Golden Horn. It is named conquest of Istanbul (see p28),
after the French novelist in honour of Eyüp Ensari. That
and Turkophile Pierre Loti, building fell into ruins, probably
who frequented a café as a result of an earthquake,
in Eyüp – claimed to be and the present mosque was
this one – during his stay completed in 1800, by Selim III
here in 1876. Loti, a French (see p35).
naval officer, fell in love The mosque’s delightful inner
with a married Turkish courtyard is a garden in which
woman and wrote an two huge plane trees grow on a
autobiographical novel, Period interior of the Pierre Loti Café (see p208) platform. This platform was the
EYÜP 123
setting for the Girding of the

Sword of Osman, part of a
sultan’s inauguration from the
days of Mehmet the Conqueror.
The mosque itself is
predominantly covered in
gleaming white marble.
Opposite the mosque is
the tomb of Eyüp Ensari himself,
believed to have been killed
during the first Arab siege of
Constantinople in the 7th
century (see p23). The tomb
dates from the same period
as the mosque and most of its
decoration is in the Ottoman
Baroque style. Both the outer Zal Mahmut Paşa Mosque, as viewed from its tomb garden
wall of the tomb facing the
mosque, and most of its interior, octagonal tomb. It is notable Probably erected some time
have an impressive covering for its stained glass, some of in the 1560s, the mosque is
of tiles, some of them from which is original. notable for the lovely floral
İznik (see p162). A roofed colonnade connects tiles around its mihrab, and
the tomb to what was formerly for its carved marble minbar
a Koranic school. and müezzin mahfili (see p40).
Proceeding down some stone
steps to the north of the mosque
5 Zal Mahmut you will come to a garden. In it
Paşa Mosque stands the large tomb of Zal
Zal Mahmut Paşa Camii Mahmut Paşa and his wife, both
of whom are said to have died
Zal Paşa Cad. @ 39, 55T, 99A.
Open daily.
on the same day.
On the same street is Cezri
Heading south from the Kasım Paşa Mosque (1515),
centre of Eyüp, it is a short walk a small mosque with a pretty
to Zal Mahmut Paşa Mosque. portal and a tiled mihrab.
The complex was built by Sinan Most of the tiles were produced
for the man who assassinated at the Palace of the Porphyro-
Mustafa, the first-born heir of genitus (see p119) in the first
Visitors at the tomb of Eyüp Ensari, Süleyman the Magnificent. half of the 18th century.
Mohammed’s standard bearer
Ottoman Gravestones
4Tomb of Sokollu The Ottoman graveyard was a garden of the
Mehmet Paşa dead, where the living happily strolled without
Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Türbesi morbid inhibitions. The gravestones within it
were often lavishly symbolic: from their decoration
Camii Kebir Sok. @ 39, 55T, 99A.
you can tell the sex, occupation, rank and even
Open 9:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sun.
the number of children of the deceased. As the
Grand vizier (see p31) Sokollu turban was banned in 1829 (see p32), only the
Mehmet Paşa commissioned his fez appears on men’s gravestones erected Women’s graves
tomb around 1574, five years after that date. have a flower for
before he was assassinated by a each child.
madman in Topkapı Palace (see
pp56–61). Of Balkan royal blood,
he started his career as falconer
royal and steadily climbed the
social order until he became
grand vizier to Süleyman the
Magnificent (see p28) in 1565.
He held this position through
the reign of Selim II (see p29) A turban’s This hat indicates A fez was worn by
and into that of Murat III. The size reflected a the grave of a member a paşa, or public
architect Sinan (see p93) built gentleman’s status. of a Sufi order. servant (see p30).
this elegantly proportioned
Beyond Taksim
The area to the north of Taksim Square (see p109) became
fashionable in the 19th century, when sultans built palaces along
the Bosphorus and in the wooded hills above it. The extravagant
Dolmabahçe Palace, built by Abdül Mecit I (see p32), started the
trend. High-ranking court officials soon followed, and the area
achieved a glamour that it retains to this day. Two other sights
worth seeing are on the northern shore of the Golden Horn. Aynalı
Kavak Palace is the last surviving trace of a grand palace built by
Ahmet III (see p29), while the Rahmi M Koç Museum, in nearby
Hasköy, is an interesting industrial museum. Hasköy became a royal
park in the 15th century and later supported fruit orchards, before Ortaköy’s fashionable waterfront
dockyards brought industrialization to the area in the 19th century. square and ferry landing
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Sights at a Glance
Kasımpaşa
1 Ortaköy 8 Palace Collections Museum
Key 2 Çırağan Palace 9 Dolmabahçe Mosque
3 Yıldız Park pp126–7 0 Military Museum
Central Istanbul
4 Pavilion of the Linden Tree q Santralistanbul Museum
Motorway of Energy
5 Naval Museum
Main road 6 National Palaces Painting w Aynalı Kavak Palace
Other road Museum e Miniatürk
Temporary bridge 7 Dolmabahçe Palace pp130–31 r Rahmi M Koç Museum
1 Ortaköy bar and café scene, which in the

summer especially is the hub of
Map 9 F3. @ 25E, 40.
Istanbul’s nightlife (see p221).
Crouched at the foot of Mecidiye Mosque (or Ortaköy
Bosphorus Bridge (see p140), the Camii), the suburb’s impressive
suburb of Ortaköy has retained a landmark, is on the waterfront.
village feel. Life centres on İskele Built in 1855 by Nikoğos Balyan,
Meydanı, the quayside square, who was responsible for
which used to be busy with Dolmabahçe Palace (see pp130–
fishermen unloading the day’s 31), it has grace and originality,
catch. Nowadays, though, with window-filled tympanum
Ortaköy is better known for its arches and corner turrets.
lively Sunday market (see p215), Ortaköy also has a Greek
which crowds out the square and Orthodox church, Haghios
surrounding streets, and its shops Phocas, and a synagogue, Etz
Cobbled Ortaköy side street lined with selling the wares of local artisans. Ahayim. The origins of both date
cafés and shops It is also the location for a thriving from the Byzantine era.
B E YO N D TA K S İ M 125
2 Çırağan Palace
Çırağan Sarayı
Dolmabahçe Cad, Beşiktaş. Map 9 D3.
Tel (0212) 236 90 00. @ 25E, 40.
∑ ciragan-palace.com
Sultan Abdül Mecit I started

work on Çırağan Palace in 1864,
but it was not completed until
1871, during the reign of Abdül
Aziz (see p32). It replaced an
earlier wooden palace where
torchlit processions were held
during the Tulip Period (see p29).
The palace was designed by
Nikoğos Balyan. At the sultan’s
request he added Arabic
touches from sketches of Moorish
buildings such as the Alhambra Baroque-style staircase at the Pavilion of the Linden Tree
in Granada in Spain. Externally
this is reflected in the honeycomb many years, before being Mecit I (see p32) often came
capitals over its windows. The restored in 1990 as the Çırağan here and stayed in the original
sultan entered Çırağan Palace Palace Kempinski (see p188). pavilion on this site. That
directly from the Bosphorus, building was so unassuming
through the ornate ceremonial that the French poet Alphonse
gates along its shoreline. 3 Yıldız Park de Lamartine (1790–1869)
Çırağan Palace had a sad, See pp126–7.
expressed great surprise that a
short history as an imperial sultan should have entertained
residence. Abdül Aziz died here him in a humble cottage, with
in 1876, having supposedly 4 Pavilion of the a gardener working in plain
committed suicide – although Linden Tree view through the windows.
his friends believed he had been In 1857 Abdül Mecit chose
Ihlamur Kasrı
murdered. His successor, Murat Nikoğos Balyan, who had by
V (see p35), was imprisoned in Dolmabahçe Cad, Beşiktaş. Map 8 B2. then finished Dolmabahçe
the palace for a year after a brief Tel (0212) 236 90 00. @ 26 (from Palace with his father, to design
reign of only three months. He Eminönü). Open 9am–5pm Tue–Wed another residence here. Two
& Fri–Sun. & 8
died in the Malta Pavilion (see separate pavilions were built,
p127) 27 years later, still a the grander of which is the
prisoner. The palace was event- This one-time residence of Ceremonial Pavilion, or Mabeyn
ually destroyed by fire in 1910. sultans, dating from the early Köşkü, used by the sultan
It remained a burnt-out shell for 19th century, stands in and his guests. The Entourage
beautiful, leafy gardens Pavilion, or Maiyet Köşkü, a short
which are planted with distance away, was reserved for
magnolias and camellias, the sultan’s retinue, including
and decorated with the women of the harem. Both
ornamental fountains. buildings are open to visitors –
Today, the gardens are a the Entourage Pavilion is
somewhat incongruous currently a café and bookshop.
reminder of the city’s The pavilions are constructed
Ottoman past, being mainly of sandstone and
situated in the midst of marble. Their façades are in
the modern suburbs of the Baroque style, with double
Teşvikiye and Ihlamur. stairways, many decorative
As the pavilion’s name embellishments and hardly a
suggests, the area was single straight line to be seen.
once a grove of lime The ornate interiors of the
(linden) trees, and the buildings reflect 19th-century
gardens are all that remain Ottoman taste, incorporating
of what was previously a a mixture of European styles.
vast wooded park. This With their mirrors, lavish fur-
park was a favourite retreat nishings and gilded details,
and hunting ground of the they are similar to but less
Çırağan Palace, notable for the Moorish-style Ottoman sultans. In the ostentatious than those of
embellishments above its windows early 19th century, Abdül Dolmabahçe Palace.
3 Yıldız Park
Yıldız Parkı
Yıldız Park was originally laid out as the garden of the first
Çırağan Palace (see p125). It later formed the grounds of
Yıldız Palace, an assortment of buildings from different eras
now enclosed behind a wall and entered separately from
Ihlamur-Yıldız Caddesi. Further pavilions dot Yıldız Park,
which, with its many ancient trees and exotic shrubs, is a
favourite spot for family picnics. The whole park is situated
on a steep hill and, as it is a fairly long climb, you may prefer
to take a taxi up to the Şale Pavilion and walk back down
past the other sights. Bridge over the lake in the grounds
of Yıldız Palace
Yıldız Palace
The palace is a collection of
pavilions and villas built in the PA
LA
19th and 20th centuries. Many of NG
them are the work of the eccen- A
C
tric Sultan Abdül Hamit II (1876– A
1909, see p35), who made it his
D
Park
D
principal residence as he feared a entrance
ES
seaborne attack on Dolmabahçe
İ
Şale
Palace (see pp130–31). Pavilion
The main building in the
YILDIZ CADDESİ
entrance courtyard is the State Yıldız

Theatre
Apartments (Büyük Mabeyn),
which date from the reign of Yİldİz Palace
Sultan Selim III (1789–1807, see
p35); they are not presently
open to the public. Around the State
corner, the City Museum (Şehir Apartments
Yıldız Yİldİz Park
Müzesi) has a display of Yıldız IHLAMURY
ILDIZ CA Palace
porcelain. The Italianate D Museum
building opposite it is the Palace Silahhane City
former armoury, or Silahhane. entrance Museum
Next door to the City Museum is
the Yıldız Palace Museum,
housed in what was once the
Marangozhane, Abdül Hamit’s
carpentry workshop. This has a
changing collection of art and
objects from the palace.
A monumental arch leads
M
Ü
from the first courtyard to the

V
harem section of the palace.

EZ
On the left beside the arch

Zİ
İ
D
is a pretty greenhouse, the

N
CAD
YAHYA E FE
DESİ
Park
entrance
The Italianate Silahhane, the former armoury of Yıldız Palace

Limonluk Serası VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

(Lemon House).
Further on is the Yıldız Practical Information
Palace Theatre, now a Çırağan Cad, Beşiktaş. Map 9 D2.
museum. It was Yıldız Palace: Tel (0212) 258 30 80.
completed in 1889 Open 9:30am–4pm Wed–Sun.
by Abdül Hamit, who & Şale Pavilion: Tel (0212) 259
encouraged all forms of 45 70. Open 9:30am–4:30pm.
Closed Mon & Thu. & Malta &
Western art. The decor
Çadır Pavilions: Tel (0212) 258 94
of the theatre’s restored
53. Open 9am–9pm daily. (Malta
interior is mainly blue
Pavilion until 10:30pm). Imperial
and gold. The stars on Porcelain Factory: Tel (0212) 260
the domed ceiling are a 23 70. Open 9am–noon,
reference to the name of 1–4:30pm Mon–Fri.
the palace: yıldız means
“star” in Turkish. Transport
@ 25E, 40, 56.
Abdül Hamit sat
alone in a box over the
entrance. Since no one Salon in the lavish Şale Pavilion
was allowed to sit with is a haunt for locals wanting to
his back to the sultan, the Şale Pavilion relax and read the newspapers.
stalls were not used. Backstage, The single most impressive Mithat Paşa, reformist and
the former dressing rooms are building in the park, the Şale architect of the constitution,
given over to displays on the Pavilion (Şale Köşkü) was was among those imprisoned
theatre, including costumes among those erected by Abdül in Çadır Pavilion, for instigating
and playbills. Hamit II. Although its façade the murder of Abdül Aziz.
The lake in the palace appears as a whole, it was in Meanwhile, Murat V and his
grounds is shaped like Abdül fact built in three stages. mother were locked away in
Hamit’s tuğra (see p97). A The first, left-hand section Malta Pavilion for 27 years after
menagerie was kept on the of the buildling was designed a brief incarceration in Çırağan
islands in the lake, where 30 to resemble a Swiss chalet. It Palace (see p125).
keepers tended tigers, lions, probably dates from the 1870s.
giraffes and zebras. Winston Churchill, Charles de
Gaulle and Nicolae Ceauşescu
Park have all stayed in its rooms.
entrance The second section was added
in 1889, to accommodate Kaiser
PA
Wilhelm II on the first ever state

visit of a foreign monarch to the
LA
Ottoman capital. The 14-room

NG
suite includes a dining

A
CADDESİ room known as the

Mother-of-Pearl Salon Façade of Çadır Pavilion, which has now
(Sedefli Salon) after the been refurbished as a café
delicate inlay that
covers almost all of Imperial Porcelain Factory
its surfaces. In 1895 this factory opened to
K
The third section was also feed the demand of the upper
O
S
built for a visit by Kaiser Wilhelm classes for European-style

İ II, this time in 1898. Its reception ceramics, with which to decorate
ES
DD chamber is the grandest room in their homes. The unusual
CA
AN the whole pavilion. The vast silk building was designed to look
Ğ
I RA Hereke carpet (see p218) covering like a stylized European
Ç
its floor was painstakingly hand- medieval castle, complete with
knotted by 60 weavers. turrets and portcullis windows.
The original sugar bowls, vases
0 metres 250 Malta and Çadır Pavilions and plates produced here depict
0 yards 250 These two lovely pavilions idealized scenes of the Bosphorus
were built in the reign of Abdül and other local beauty spots; they
Aziz (1861–76, see p32). Both can be seen in museums and
Key formerly served as prisons but palaces all over Istanbul. The
are now open as cafés. Malta factory is normally not open to
Buildings of palace
Pavilion, also a restaurant, has visitors but the mass-produced
Park wall/Palace wall a superb view and on Sunday china of today is on sale in its shop.
5 Naval Museum 9 Dolmabahçe

Deniz Müzesi Mosque
Hayrettin Paşa İskelesi Sok, Beşiktaş. Dolmabahçe Camii
Map 8 B4. Tel (0212) 261 00 40. @ 25E,
Meclis-i Mebusan Cad, Kabataş.
28, 40, 56. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Map 8 A5. v Kabataş. @ 25E, 40.
& 8 ∑ denizmuzeleri.tsk.tr
Open daily.
The Naval Museum, reopened
in 2013 in a new, state-of-the- Completed at the same time
art building, is well worth a visit. as Dolmabahçe Palace, in 1853,
The main exhibition space is the mosque standing beside it
devoted to a series of beauti- was also built by the wealthy
fully restored caïques, the Woman with Mimosas by Osman Hamdi Balyan family. Its slim minarets
elegant imperial rowing boats Bey, National Palaces Painting Museum were constructed in the form of
used to take the sultans and Corinthian columns, while great
their entourages up and down by Osman Hamdi Bey, Sultan arching windows lighten the
the Bosphorus. The largest, at 40 Ahmet Mosque by Ahmet Ziya interior. Inside, the decoration
m (130 ft), was used by Mehmet Akbulut (1869–1938), and includes fake marbling
IV and required 144 oarsmen. Âşık, a statue of a poet by and trompe l’oeil.
The floor below has wood- İsa Behzat (1867–1944).
carving in the
Ottoman navy as 0 Military Museum
its theme, with 7 Dolmabahçe
stunning Harbiye Askeri Müzesi
examples Palace Vali Konağı Cad, Harbiye. Map 7 F1.
of ships’ See pp130–31. Tel (0212) 233 27 20. @ 46H.
figureheads  Osmanbey. Open 9am–5pm
gleaming with Wed–Sun. Mehter Band performances:
gilt. There is a 3–4pm Wed–Sun. & 8
8 Palace Collections
small kids’ section, This impressive museum traces
Rowing boat a café and fine
Museum the history of Turkey’s conflicts
used by Atatürk Bosphorus views
Saray Koleksiyonları Müzesi from the conquest of Constan-
from the large Barbaros Hayrettin Paşa İskelesi Sok, tinople in 1453 (see p28)
plate-glass windows. Beşiktaş. Map 8 B4. Tel (0212) 236 90 through to modern war fare. The
00. @ 25E, 40. v Kabataş. Open 9am– building used to be the military
5pm Tue–Sun. ∑ millisaraylar.gov.tr academy where Atatürk studied
6 National Palaces from 1899 to 1905. His classroom
Painting Museum Located in the impressive former has been preserved as it was.
kitchens of the Dolmabahçe The museum is also the main
Milli Saraylar Resim Müzesi Palace, this museum offers an venue for performances by the
Hayrettin Paşa İskelesi Sok, Beşiktaş. insight into the domestic life Mehter Band, which was formed
Map 8 B4. Tel (0212) 261 42 98. of the palace. There are over in the 14th-century during the
@ 25E, 28, 40, 56. Open 9am– 43,000 objects on display, reign of Osman I (see p27). Until
5pm Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun. including toys once played with the 19th century, the band’s
∑ millisaraylar.gov.tr
by future sultans, calligraphy members were Janissaries, who
tools, Singer sewing machines would accompany the sultan
This building adjacent to and Limoges porcelain wares. into battle and perform songs
Dolmabahçe Palace (see pp130–
31) houses a fine collection of
19th- and 20th-century paintings
and sculpture. In the 1800s, the
westernization of the Ottoman
Empire (see pp32–3) led
artists such as Osman Hamdi
Bey (1842–1910, see p64) to
experiment with Western-style
painting. While their styles rely
heavily on European art forms,
the subject matter of their work
gives a glimpse into the Oriental
history of the city. Look out
for Woman with Mimosas,
Portrait of a Young Girl and
Man with a Yellow Robe, all Dolmabahçe Mosque, a landmark on the Bosphorus shoreline
about Ottoman hero-ancestors w Aynalı Kavak who contributed a great deal

and battle victories. to Turkish classical music. In
Some of the most striking
Palace summer, concerts of classical
weapons on display on the Aynalı Kavak Kasrı Turkish music are held here.
ground floor are the curved Kasımpaşa Cad, Hasköy. Map 6 A3.
daggers (cembiyes) carried by Tel (0212) 250 40 94. @ 47, 54.
foot soldiers in the 15th century. Open 9:30am–4pm. Closed Mon &
Thu. &
e Miniatürk
These are decorated with plant
İmrahor Caddesi, Sütlüce.
and geometric motifs in relief
Tel (0212) 222 28 82. @ 47, 47C, 47E,
and silver filigree. Other exhibits This is the last vestige of a large 54HT. ∑ miniaturk.com.tr
are 17th-century copper head Ottoman palace complex on
armour for horses, and Ottoman the once lovely Golden Horn This well-planned attraction on
shields made from cane and (see p91). Originally it stood in the banks of the Golden Horn is
willow covered in silk thread. extensive gardens covering an home to more than a hundred
A moving portrayal of trench area of 7,000 sq m (75,300 sq ft). 1:25 scale models of major sights
warfare, commissioned in 1995, Inscriptions dated 1791 can be in Turkey. These include 45
is included in the section con- found all over the palace, but it places from Istanbul, ranging
cerned with the ANZAC landings is thought to have been built from the Haghia Sophia to the
of 1915 at Chunuk Bair on the earlier by Ahmet III during the Atatürk International Airport.
Gallipoli peninsula (see p32). Tulip Period (see p29), because
Upstairs, the most spec- of traces around the building of
tacular of all the exhibits are an older style of architecture.
the tents used by sultans on The palace is built on a hill and
their campaigns. They are as a result has two storeys on the
made of silk and wool with southwest side and a single
embroidered decoration. storey to the northeast. It retains
some beautiful Ottoman features.
These include the upper windows
q Santralistanbul on the southwest façade, which
Museum of Energy are decorated with stained glass
set in curvilinear stucco tracery.
Kazim Karabekir Cad 1, Eyüp. Particularly striking is the
Tel (0212) 311 78 78. @ 47; also composition room, which Sultan Audience chamber of Aynalı Kavak Palace
free shuttle every 30 minutes from Selim III (1789–1807) is thought on the Golden Horn
Kabataş ferry port. Open 10am–6pm
to have used for writing music.
Tue–Fri, 10am–8pm Sat & Sun.
The audience chamber is
∑ santralistanbul.org
adorned with an inscription in r Rahmi M
Housed in the first power station gold on blue which describes
built in the city, the museum the activities of Selim III while
Koç Museum
has preserved the plant’s he stayed at the palace. Rahmi M Koç Müzesi
working parts and control centre. There is also an exhibition of Hasköy Cad 27, Eyüp. Tel (0212) 369
It also has a few interactive archaic Turkish musical instru- 66 00. g @ 47. Open Apr–Sep:
features for inquisitive children. ments, in honour of Selim III, 10am–5pm Tue–Fri (till 8pm Sat &
Sun); Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue–Fri
(till 6pm Sat & Sun). &
Janissaries
The Janissary (New Army) corps was This old 19th-century factory,
formed in the 14th century to serve which once produced anchors
as the sultan’s elite fighting force. Its and chains, now houses an
ranks were filled by devşirme, the eclectic collection named after
levy of Christian youths brought to its industrialist founder, Rahmi
Istanbul to serve the sultan. A highly M Koç. The building itself, with
professional and strong army, it was its four small domes, vaulted
instrumental in the early expansion passageways and original
of the Ottoman Empire and, as well
wooden fittings, is a highlight.
as a fighting force, it acted as the
sultan’s personal guard. However,
The theme of the industrial age
discipline eventually began to loosely connects exhibitions on
weaken, and by 1800 the Janissaries aviation, transport, steam engines
had become a destabilizing element and scientific instruments.
in society. They mutinied and Exhibits range from mechanical
overthrew many sultans until their toys and scale models of machin-
final demise under Mahmut II in Janissaries depicted in a ery to an entire recreated ship’s
1826 (see p32). 16th-century miniature bridge. Two fine restaurants are
located on the premises.
7 Dolmabahçe Palace
Dolmabahçe Sarayı
Sultan Abdül Mecit (see p35) built Dolmabahçe Palace in
1856. As its designers he employed Karabet Balyan and
his son Nikoğos, members of the great family of Armenian
architects who lined the Bosphorus (see pp138–51) with
many of their creations in the 19th century. The extravagant
opulence of the Dolmabahçe belies the fact that it was
built when the Ottoman Empire was in decline. The sultan
financed his great palace with loans from foreign banks.
The palace can only be visited on a guided tour, of which
two are on offer. The best tour takes you through the
Selamlık (or Mabeyn-i Hümayun), the part of the palace
that was reserved for men and which contains the state
rooms and the enormous Ceremonial Hall. The other . Crystal Staircase
tour goes through the Harem, the living quarters of the The apparent fragility of this glass
staircase stunned observers when it
sultan and his entourage. If you only want to go on
was built. It is constructed in the
one tour, visit the Selamlık. shape of a double horseshoe, and
made from Baccarat crystal and brass
with a polished mahogany rail.
Entrance
Imperial Gate
Once used only by the sultan and his
ministers, this gate is now the main
entrance to the palace. The Mehter,
or Janissary, Band (see pp129)
performs in front of the gate
every Tuesday afternoon
throughout the summer.
Swan Fountain
This fountain stands in the Imperial
Garden. The original 16th-century garden
here was created from recovered land,
hence the palace’s name, Dolmabahçe,
meaning “Filled-in Garden”.
. Ceremonial Hall VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This magnificent
domed hall was designed Practical Information
to hold 2,500 people. Its Dolmabahçe Cad, Beşiktaş.
chandelier, reputedly the Map 8 B4. Tel (0212) 236 90 00.
heaviest in the world, was Open 9am–4pm (last adm) Tue,
bought in England. Wed & Fri–Sun (Oct–Feb: last adm
3pm). Closed the first day of
religious festivals. & 8 - =
Transport
@ 25E, 40.
Blue Salon
On religious feast days the
sultan’s mother would
receive his wives
and favourites in
the Harem’s
principal room.
KEY
1 The Red Room was used by the

sultan to receive ambassadors.
2 The Süfera Salon, where
ambassadors waited for an audience
with the sultan, is one of the most
luxurious rooms in the palace.
3 Selamlık
4 The Zülveçheyn, or
Panorama Room
5 Main shore gate
6 Reception room of the
sultan’s mother
7 Sultan Abdül Aziz’s bedroom
had to accommodate a huge bed
built especially for the 150-kg
(23-stone) amateur wrestler.
8 Atatürk’s Bedroom is part of
the palace tour. Atatürk (see pp32–3)
died in this room at 9:05am on 10
. Main Bathroom November 1938. All the clocks in the
The walls of this bathroom palace, such as this one near the crystal
are revetted in finest Egyptian staircase, are stopped at this time.
alabaster, while the taps are
9 The Rose-coloured salon was
solid silver. The brass-framed
the assembly room of the Harem.
bathroom windows afford
stunning views across 0 Harem
the Bosphorus.
The Asian Side

The Asian side of Istanbul comprises the two major suburbs of
Üsküdar and Kadıköy, which date from the 7th century BC (see
p21). Üsküdar (once known as Scutari after the 12th-century
Scutarion Palace which was located opposite Leander’s Tower)
was the starting point of Byzantine trade routes through Asia.
It retained its importance in the Ottoman period and today
is renowned for its many classical mosques. Üsküdar can be
reached from the European side of the city by either ferry or
the Marmaray Metro line.
Regular ferries also link Kadıköy to the European side The distinctive Leander’s Tower, on its
of the city. It lacks Üsküdar’s beautiful Ottoman sights but own small island
has a lively market area, some excellent restaurants and a
vibrant nightlife. 2 Şemsi Paşa
Mosque
Şemsi Paşa Camii
Sights at a Glance Sahil Yolu, Üsküdar. Map 10 A2.
£ Üsküdar. g Üsküdar. Open daily.
1 Leander’s Tower C AD
K
IPA
2 Şemsi Paşa Mosque ¨
Üskudar
AN 5 km
S E LM
3 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque This is one of the smallest
mosques to be commissioned
DO CAD ILAR
4 Yeni Valide Mosque Üsküdar

Sİ
DE
G A NC
Üsküdar by a grand vizier (see p31).

5 Atik Valide Mosque
G ÜN
Its miniature dimensions

6 Tiled Mosque
DOĞ
combined with its picturesque

7 Karacaahmet Cemetery
UM
Salacak
HA
waterfront location make it

UC
RE
8 Selimiye Barracks U
US
MS
UY one of the most attractive

AD
9 Haydarpaşa Station NU H K D
AHİLYOLU
CA mosques in the city.

DR
0 Big Pine Hill Şemsi Ahmet Paşa succeeded

EY
TIB
Harem
ÜP
BİYE C A
Sokollu Mehmet Paşa (see p84)

AK SO
as grand vizier, and may have

YC
D
AD
been involved in his murder.

0 kilometres 1 L ANKA R A
BURH NBU Sinan (see p93) built this mosque
AN İ S TA EVLET YOLU
0 miles 1 FEL D
EK
CA
for him in 1580.
D
The garden, which overlooks
R IH T
the Bosphorus, is surrounded

I M CA
Key on two sides by the medrese

Haydarpaşa
DDESİ
Main road (see p40), with the mosque on

Other road
the third side and the sea wall
Kadıköy on the fourth. The mosque
itself is unusual in that the tomb
Kadıköy
of Şemsi Ahmet is joined to
the main building, divided
1 Leander’s Tower a customs control point and from the interior by a grille.
Kız Kulesi a maritime toll gate. It is now
a restaurant and nightclub.
Üsküdar. Map 10 A3. Tel (0216) The tower is known in
342 47 47. g Üsküdar. Turkish as the “Maiden’s Tower”
∑ kizkulesi.com.tr
after a legendary princess,
said to have been confined
Located offshore from Üsküdar, here after a prophet foretold
the tiny, white Leander’s Tower that she would die from a
is a well-known Bosphorus snakebite. The snake duly
landmark. The islet on which appeared from a basket of
this 18th-century tower stands figs and struck the fatal blow.
was the site of a 12th-century The English name of the tower
Byzantine fortress built by derives from the Greek myth
Manuel I Comnenus. of Leander, who swam the
The tower has served as Hellespont (the modern-day
a quarantine centre during a Dardanelles, see p172) to see Şemsi Paşa Mosque, built by Sinan for
cholera outbreak, a lighthouse, his lover Hero. Grand Vizier Şemsi Ahmet Paşa
THE ASIAN SIDE 133
3 Mihrimah
Sultan Mosque
Mihrimah Sultan Camii
Hakimiyeti Milliye Cad, Üsküdar.
Map 10 B2. £ Üsküdar. g Üsküdar.
Open daily.
One of Üsküdar’s most

prominent landmarks, the
Mihrimah Sultan Mosque (also
known as İskele Mosque), is
named after the daughter of
Süleyman the Magnificent and
wife of Grand Vizier Rüstem Paşa
(see p90). A massive structure on
a raised platform, it was built by
Sinan between 1547 and 1548.
Without space to build a court-
yard, Sinan constructed a large
protruding roof which extends The mektep (Koranic school) over the gate of Yeni Valide Mosque
to cover the şadırvan (ablutions
fountain) in front of the mosque. 1708 and 1710 to honour his Sinan completed the mosque,
The porch and interior are rather mother, Gülnuş Emetullah. The which was his last major work,
gloomy as a result. This raised complex is entered through a in 1583. It has a wide shallow
portico is an excellent place from large gateway, with the mektep dome which rests on five
which to look down on the main (Koranic school) built above it. semidomes, with a flat arch
square below, in which stands This leads into a spacious court- over the entrance portal.
the Baroque Fountain of Ahmet III, yard. The buildings in the complex The interior is surrounded
built in 1726. date from an important turning on three sides by galleries, the
point in Ottoman architecture. undersides of which retain
The mosque is in the classical the rich black, red and gold
style, yet there are Baroque stencilling typical of the period.
embellishments on the tomb of The mihrab apse is almost
the Valide Sultan, the neighbour- completely covered with panels
ing sebil (kiosk from which drinks of fine İznik tiles (see p163), while
were served), and the şadırvan. the mihrab itself and the minbar
are both made of beautifully
carved marble. Side aisles were
5 Atik Valide added to the north and south
Mosque in the 17th century, while the
Atik Valide Camii grilles and architectural trompe
l’oeil paintings on the royal loge
Çinili Camii Sok, Üsküdar. Map 10 C3.
@ 12C (from Üsküdar). Open prayer in the western gallery date
times only. from the 18th century.
Outside, a door in the north
The Atik Valide Mosque, set on wall of the courtyard leads down
Fountain set into the platform below the the hill above Üsküdar, was a flight of stairs to the
Mihrimah Sultan Mosque among Istanbul’s most medrese, where the
extensive mosque dershane (classroom)
complexes. projects out over
4 Yeni Valide Translated as the street below,
Mosque the Old Mosque supported by an
of the Sultan’s arch. Of the other
Yeni Valide Camii Mother, the buildings in the
Hakimiyeti Milliye Cad, Üsküdar. mosque was built complex, the
Map 10 B2. £ Üsküdar. g Üsküdar. for Nur Banu, the şifahane (hospital) is
Open daily. Venetian-born wife of the only one which has
Selim II (“the Sot”) and Dome in the entrance to been restored and is
Across the main square from the mother of Murat III. Atik Valide Mosque open to the public.
Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, the She was the first of the Located just to the east
Yeni Valide Mosque, or New sultans’ mothers to rule the of the mosque, it consists of 40
Mosque of the Sultan’s Mother, Ottoman Empire from the cells around a courtyard and was
was built by Ahmet III between harem (see p29). in use well into the 20th century.
The mosque’s Turkish bath is 8 Selimiye Barracks

on Çinili Hamam Sokağı. It has Selimiye Kışlası
been renovated and is used
Çeşme-i Kebir Cad, Selimiye. Map 10
by local residents.
B5. Tel (0216) 343 73 10. g Harem.
@ 12. Open 9am–5pm Sat.
7 Karacaahmet The Selimiye Barracks were
Cemetery originally built by Selim III in
Karacaahmet Mezarlığı 1799 to house his New Army,
with which he hoped to replace
Nuh Kuyusu Cad, Selimiye.
Map 10 C4. @ 12. Open daily.
the Janissaries (see p129). He
Tomb: Open daily. failed in his attempt, and was
deposed and killed in a Janissary
Sprawling over a large area, this insurrection in 1807–8 (see p32).
cemetery is a pleasant place in The barracks burnt down shortly
Women attending an Islamic class in the which to stroll among old cypress afterwards. The present building,
Tiled Mosque trees and look at ancient tomb- which dominates the skyline of
stones. The earliest dated stone the Asian shore, was started by
6 Tiled Mosque is from 1521, although the Mahmut II in 1828, after he had
Çinili Camii cemetery itself, one of the largest finally disbanded the Janissary
in Turkey, is thought to date corps. Abdül Mecit I added
Çinili Camii Sok, Üsküdar. Map 10 C3.
g Üsküdar, then 20 mins walk. from 1338. three more wings
Open prayer times only. The carvings on between 1842
each tombstone and 1853.
This pretty little mosque is tell a story (see The barracks were
best known for the fine tiles p123). A man’s used as a military
from which it takes its name. tomb is indicated hospital during
It dates from 1640 and is by a fez or a the Crimean War
noticeably smaller than other turban. The style (1853–6). They
royal foundations of the 17th of the turban became famously
century. This is partly because denotes the status associated with
by the middle of the century of the deceased. Florence Nightin-
much of Istanbul’s prime land Women’s stones gale, who lived
had already been built on, and are adorned with Crimean War memorial in the and worked in the
the size of the plot did not allow carved flowers, British War Cemetery northeast tower
for a larger building. There was hats and shawls. from 1854. The
also a trend away from endowing Standing on the corner of rooms she occupied are now a
yet more enormous mosque Gündoğumu Caddesi and Nuh museum, and are the only part
complexes in the city. Kuyusu Caddesi is the tomb of of the barracks open to the
The mosque was founded Karaca Ahmet himself. This warrior public. They contain their original
by Mahpeyker Kösem Sultan. died fighting in the Turkish furniture and the lamp from
As the wife of Sultan Ahmet I conquest of the Byzantine towns which she gained the epitaph
(see p35), and mother of sultans of Chrysopolis and Chalcedon “Lady of the Lamp”. Visits must
Murat IV and İbrahim the Mad, (Üsküdar and Kadıköy) in the be arranged well in advance
she wielded great influence. mid-14th century. The tomb and by faxing 0216 333 10 09.
Indeed, she was one of the last monument to his favourite horse Two other sites near the
of the powerful harem women date from the 19th century. barracks – the Selimiye Mosque
(see p29).
In the courtyard is a massive,
roofed ablutions fountain. The
adjacent medrese (see p40),
however, is tiny. The façade
and interior of the mosque are
covered with İznik tiles (see p163)
in turquoise, white, grey and a
range of blues. There are none
of the red and green pigments
associated with the heyday of
İznik tile production, but the
designs are still exquisite. Even
the conical cap of the marble
minbar is tiled, and the carving
on the minbar itself is picked
out in green, red and gold paint. Visitor praying at the tomb of the warrior Karaca Ahmet
THE ASIAN SIDE 135
built. Haydarpaşa, the grandest

of these, was completed in
1908. Trains run from Hay-
darpaşa into the rest of Asia.
0 Big Pine Hill

Büyük Çamlıca
Çamlıca. @ 11F, KÇ1; then 30 mins
walk. Park: Open 9am–11pm daily.
On a clear day the view from

the top of this hill takes in the
Princes’ Islands, the Sea of
Marmara, the Golden Horn and
Beyoğlu, and the Bosphorus as
far as the Black Sea. It is even
possible to see snow-capped
Haydarpaşa Station, terminus for trains arriving from Anatolia Mount Uludağ near Bursa (see
p171) to the south. Big Pine Hill,
and the British War Cemetery – from here to İznik (see p162). The 4 km (2.5 miles) east of Üsküdar,
are both worth seeing. Built extension of this railway was a is the highest point in Istanbul,
in 1804, the mosque is in a major part of Abdül Hamit II’s at 261 m (856 ft) above sea
peaceful, if somewhat neglected, drive to modernize the Otto- level. Even the forest of radio
garden courtyard. The interior man Empire. Lacking sufficient and TV masts further down the
is filled with light from tiers of funds to continue the project, slopes of the hill does not
windows set in high arches. he applied for help to his obscure the view.
It is simply decorated with a German ally, Kaiser Wilhelm II. The park at the summit, which
classically painted dome and The Deutsche Bank agreed to was created by the Turkish
grey marble minbar. The royal invest in the construction and Touring and Automobile Club
pavilion in the northwest corner operation of the railway. In 1898 (see p245) in 1980, is laid out
of the compound is flanked German engineers were con- with gardens, marble kiosks and
by graceful arches. tracted to build the new railway two 18th-century-style cafés.
The British War Cemetery is lines running across Anatolia and The park might lose some
a short walk south, on Burhan beyond into the far reaches of the of its character if plans to build
Felek Caddesi. It contains the Ottoman Empire. At the same a gigantic, mock Ottoman
graves of men who died in the time a number of stations were mosque atop it reach fruition.
Crimean War, in World War I at
Gallipoli (see p172) and in World
War II in the Middle East. There Florence Nightingale
is no sign outside and opening
hours vary, but the caretaker will
usually be there to let you in.
9 Haydarpaşa
Station
Haydarpaşa Garı
Haydarpaşa İstasyon Cad, Haydarpaşa.
g Haydarpaşa or Kadıköy. Open daily.
The waterfront location and

grandeur of Haydarpaşa Station, A 19th-century painting of Florence Nightingale in Selimiye Barracks
together with the neighbouring The British nurse Florence Nightingale (1820–1910) was a tireless
tiled jetty, made it an impressive campaigner for hospital, military and social reform. During the
point of arrival or departure Crimean War, in which Britain and France fought on the Ottoman
in Istanbul. Its importance has, side against the Russian Empire, she organized a party of 38 British
however, diminished with the nurses. They took charge of medical services at the Selimiye Barracks
introduction of the Marmaray in Scutari (Üsküdar) in 1854. By the time she returned to Britain in
Metro line and it is likely to 1856, at the end of the war, the mortality rate in the barracks had
become a luxury hotel or shop- decreased from 20 to 2 percent, and the fundamental principles
ping mall in the near future. of modern nursing had been established. On her return home,
The first Anatolian railway line, Florence Nightingale opened a training school for nurses.
which was built in 1873, ran
Picturesque view of the Bosphorus, one of the world’s busiest waterways
BEYOND
ISTANBUL
The Bosphorus 138–151

Excursions from Istanbul 152–173
B E YO N D I S TA N B U L 139
THE BOSPHORUS
If the noise and bustle of the city get too much, waterfront entrances. These date from the
nothing can beat a trip up the Bosphorus days when wooden caïques, boats powered
(see pp146–51), the straits separating Europe by a strong team of oarsmen, were a popular
and Asia, which join the Black Sea and the form of transport along the straits among
Sea of Marmara. The easiest way to travel is the city’s wealthier inhabitants. Interspersed
by boat. An alternative is to explore the between the monumental architecture are
sights along the shores at your own pace. former fishing villages, where you will find
For much of their length the shores are lined some of Istanbul’s finest clubs and restaurants.
with handsome buildings: wooden waterside The Bosphorus is especially popular in
villas known as yalıs, graceful mosques and summer, when the cool breezes off the
opulent 19th-century palaces. The grander water provide welcome relief from the
residences along the Bosphorus have heat of the city.
Sights at a Glance
Museums, Galleries and Palaces
2 Beylerbeyi Palace
4 Küçüksu Palace
5 Aşiyan Museum
7 Borusan Contemporary
0 Sakıp Sabancı Museum
q Maslak Pavilions The Bosphorus Trip
Black Sea
w Khedive’s Palace
This vital navigational channel Kilyos
r Sadberk Hanım Museum
is 30 km (19 miles) long and
Towns and Villages varies between 700 m (2,300 ft)
3 Bebek Rumeli Feneri
and 3.6 km (2 miles) wide. The
8 Kanlıca trip has been divided into three
e Beykoz stages, indicated by the boxes
Bosphorus
t Rumeli Kavağı on this map. Bridge
Historic Buildings
1 Bosphorus Bridge See pp150–1
6 Fortress of Europe 16
D0
Parks
9 Emirgan Park
Key
Central Istanbul
O-2
Greater Istanbul
Motorway
Main road O-1
See pp148–9
D0
O-2
20
O-
3
D020
See pp146-7
0 kilometres 5
D1
0 miles 5 00
O-4
Sea of Marmara
The imposing Bosphorus Bridge, also known as the Atatürk Bridge For map symbols see back flap
140 B E YO N D I S TA N B U L
are from Hereke. Despite

her initial reception, Empress
Eugénie of France was so
delighted by the elegance of
the palace that she had a copy
of the window in the guest
room made for her bedroom
in Tuileries Palace, in Paris.
3 Bebek
European side. @ 25E, 40.
Bebek is one of the most

fashionable villages along the
The Bosphorus suspension bridge between Ortaköy and Beylerbeyi Bosphorus. It is famous for its
marzipan (badem ezmesi, see
1 Bosphorus mother for daring to enter the p213), and for the cafés which
Bridge palace on the arm of Abdül Aziz. line its waterfront. It was once
Boğaziçi Köprüsü Other regal visitors to the palace a favourite location for summer
included the Duke and Duchess residences and palaces of
Ortaköy and Beylerbeyi. Map 9 F2.
of Windsor. Ottoman aristocrats, and at the
@ 40, 200, 202 (double-deckers
The palace looks its most end of the 19th century, caïques
from Taksim).
attractive from the (see p128) of merry-
Spanning the Bosphorus Bosphorus, from makers would set
between the districts of where its two off on moonlit
Ortaköy and Beylerbeyi, this bathing pavilions – cruises from the
was the first bridge to be built one for the harem bay, accompanied
across the straits that divide and the other for by a boat of
Istanbul. Construction began the selamlık (the musicians. The
in February 1970 and finished men’s quarters) – women in the party
on 29 October 1973, the 50th can best be seen. would trail pieces
anniversary of the inauguration The most Detail of the gate of the Egyptian of velvet or satin
of the Turkish Republic (see p33). attractive room is Consulate, Bebek edged with silver
It is the world’s ninth-longest the reception hall, fishes in the
suspension bridge, at a length which has a pool and fountain. water behind them while the
of 1,074 m (3,524 ft), and it Running water was popular in musicians played to the revellers.
reaches 64 m (210 ft) above Ottoman houses for its pleasant One of the hosts of these
water level. sound and cooling effect in parties was the mother of the
the heat. last Khedive of Egypt (see p31),
Egyptian straw matting is Abbas Hilmi II. Built in the late
2 Beylerbeyi Palace used on the floor as a form 19th century, the only remaining
Beylerbeyi Sarayı of insulation. The pretty crystal monumental architecture in
chandeliers are mostly Bohemian Bebek is the Egyptian Consulate,
Beylerbeyi Cad, Asian side. Tel (0216) and the carpets (see pp218–19) which, like the Khedive’s Palace
321 93 20. @ 15 (from Üsküdar). (see p144), was commissioned
 from Üsküdar. Open 8:30am–5pm
by Abbas Hilmi II. The steep,
Tue, Wed & Fri–Sun (Oct–Apr until
mansard roof of this yalı is
4pm). & 8
reminiscent of 19th-century
Designed in the Baroque style northern French architecture.
by Sarkis Balyan, Beylerbeyi There are lighter Art
Palace seems fairly restrained Nouveau touches including
compared to the excesses of the railings draped in
the earlier Dolmabahçe (see wrought-iron vines and
pp130–31) or Küçüksu (see p142) a rising sun between the
palaces. It was built for Sultan two turrets, symbolizing
Abdül Aziz (see p32) in 1861 the beginning of the
as a summer residence and a new century.
place to entertain visiting heads The khedive used the yalı
of state. Empress Eugénie of as a summer palace until he
France visited Beylerbeyi on was deposed by the British
her way to the opening of the in 1914. From then on to the
Suez Canal in 1869 and had her present day it has been used
face slapped by the sultan’s Landing at the top of the stairs in Beylerbeyi Palace as the Egyptian Consulate.
THE BOSPHORUS 141
Yalıs on the Bosphorus

At the end of the 17th century, paşas, grand viziers and
other distinguished citizens of Ottoman Istanbul began to
build themselves elegant villas – yalıs – along the shores of
the Bosphorus. These served as summer residences, and the
styles employed reflected their owners’ prestige. Since then,
Old yalı at Kandilli, Asian side the yalıs that have been built have become larger and more
elaborate, adopting Baroque, Art Nouveau and modern
styles of architecture. Most of them still conform to a traditional plan, making maximum
use of the waterfront and, inside, having a large sitting room surrounded by bedrooms.
Köprülü Amcazade Hüseyin Paşa Yalı (see

p149), near Anadolu Hisarı, was built in 1699
A cumba, or bay
and is the oldest building on the shores of window, projects
the Bosphorus. Early yalıs, like this one, were over the water.
built at the water’s edge, but in later years
they were constructed a little way inland.
Traditional wooden yalıs

were normally painted rust
red, a colour known as
“Ottoman rose”.
Later yalıs, built from

the 18th century, were
painted in pastel shades.
A bracket supports the

projecting upstairs rooms.
Fethi Ahmet Paşa Yalı (see p147), or Mocan Yalı,
at Kuzguncuk, was built in the late 18th century.
Among visitors were the composer Franz Liszt and
the architect Le Corbusier. Famous as the “Pink Yalı”,
after its boldly decorated exterior, the house is Baroque
almost invisible from the land. influence is
clearly visible
in the ornately
carved balcony.
Ethem Pertev Yalı (see p149), at Kanlıca, is a
prime example of the so-called “cosmopolitan
period” of yalı building, between 1867 and
1908. It has a boat house below and combines
Boat house under
intricate woodcarving, a later development,
with the more traditional features of a yalı. the yalı
The Egyptian
Consulate (see p148)
at Bebek clearly
shows the influence
of Art Nouveau, with its
wrought-iron railings
worked into a leaf design.
It was commissioned by
the Khedive of Egypt (see
p140) in around 1900.
A narrow quay often

French-style Ornamental details were inspired by separates 19th-century
mansard roof Austrian Art Nouveau designs. yalıs from the shore.
4 Küçüksu Palace
Küçüksu Kasrı
Küçüksu Sahili–Anadoluhisarı Beykoz,
Asian side. Tel (0216) 332 02 37. @ 15
(from Üsküdar) or 101 (from Beşiktaş).
Open 9:30am–5pm Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun
(Oct–Apr until 4pm).
Marble-fronted Küçüksu Palace

has one of the prettiest façades
on the shores of the Bosphorus.
Sultan Abdül Mecit I (see p32)
employed court architect
Nikoğos Balyan (see p130) to Küçüksu Palace, an ornate Bosphorus residence built in 1856
build this palace to accommo-
date his entourage on their Kıbrıslı Yalı, just south of the 6 Fortress of Europe
visits to the Sweet Waters of palace, was built in 1760. At over Rumeli Hisarı
Asia. This was the romantic name 60 m (200 ft), its brilliant white
Yahya Kemal Cad, European side.
European visitors gave to the façade is the longest of any yalı
Tel (0212) 263 53 05. @ 25E, 40.
Küçüksu and Göksu rivers. For (see p141) along the Bosphorus.
Open 9:30am–4:30pm Thu–Tue. &
centuries the Ottoman nobility A little further south again is
liked to indulge in picnics in the Kırmızı Yalı, the Red Yalı, which This fortress was built by
meadows between the streams. is so called for its distinctive Mehmet the Conqueror in 1452
On the completion of Küçüksu crimson colour and was built as his first step in the conquest
Palace in 1856, the sultan for one of Sultan Mahmut II’s of Constantinople (see p28).
complained that it was too plain gardens in the 1830s. Situated at the narrowest point
and demanded more ornamen- of the Bosphorus, the fortress
tation, including his monogram controlled a major Byzantine
engraved on the façade. Later, 5 Aşiyan Museum supply route. Across the straits
in the reign of Abdül Aziz (see Aşiyan Müzesi is Anadolu Hisarı, or the Fortress
p32), the façade was further of Asia, which was built in the
Aşiyan Yolu, Bebek, European side.
embellished, with the result 14th century by Beyazıt I.
Tel (0212) 263 69 86. @ 25E, 40.
that it is hard to follow the lines The Fortress of Europe’s layout
Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sat.
of the original architecture. was planned by Mehmet himself.
The room arrangement is Aşıyan, or bird’s nest, is the While his grand vizier (see p31)
typically Ottoman, with a large former home of Tevfik Fikret and two other viziers were each
central salon opening on to (1867–1915), a teacher, responsible for the building of
four corner rooms on each floor. utopian visionary and one one of the three great towers,
The interior decor was carried of Turkey’s leading poets. the sultan took charge of the
out by Séchan, the decorator The wooden mansion, built walls. In the spirit of competition
of the Paris Opera, soon after by Fikret himself in 1906, is an which evolved, the fortress was
the palace was finished. The attractive example of Turkish completed in four months.
carpets are fine examples from vernacular architecture. The The new fortress was soon
Hereke (see pp218–19) and the views from its upper-storey nicknamed Boğazkesen –
chandeliers Bohemian crystal. balcony are stunning. meaning “Throat-cutter” or
On the shore near Küçüksu On show are the poet’s “Strait-cutter”. It was garrisoned
Palace is the picturesque, possessions and Sis (Fog), a by a force of Janissaries (see
turreted Fountain of the Valide painting by Caliph Abdül p129). These troops trained
Sultan Mihrişah. Dating from Mecit (1922–24), inspired by their cannons on the straits to
1796, it is in the Baroque style. Fikret’s poem of that name. prevent the passage of foreign
The Fortress of Europe, built by Mehmet the Conqueror to enable him to capture Constantinople
THE BOSPHORUS 143
ships. After they had sunk a Austria, Venice, Poland and

Venetian vessel, this approach Russia, was signed here in 1699
to Constantinople was cut off. (see p29). All that remains of the
Following the conquest of the yalı, which is not open to visitors,
city, the fortress lost its import- is a T-shaped salon, its dome
ance as a military base and was only saved by wooden props.
used as a prison, particularly for
out-of-favour foreign envoys
and prisoners of war. 9 Emirgan Park
The structure was restored Emirgan Parkı
in 1953. Open-air theatre
Emirgan Sahil Yolu, European side.
per formances are now staged
Tel (0212) 277 57 82. @ 25E, 40.
here during the Istanbul Music
Open 7am–10:30pm daily.
Festival (see p47). & for vehicles.
Pretty tulips at Pembe Köşk in
Emirgan Park is the location Emirgan Park
7 Borusan of some famous tulip gardens,
Contemporary which are at their finest for the 0 Sakıp Sabancı
annual Tulip Festival in April Museum
Perili Köşk, Hisar Cad 5. (see p46). Tulips originally grew
Tel (0212) 393 52 00. @ 22, 25E, 40. wild on the Asian steppes and
Sakıp Sabancı Müzesi
Open 10am–8pm Sat & Sun. were first propagated in large İstinye Cad 22, Emirgan 34467.
∑ borusancontemporary.com Tel (0212) 229 55 18. @ 40, 41 from
quantities in Holland. They were
later reintroduced to Turkey by Taksim Sq; any bus to İstinye or Sarıyer.
This early 20th-century mansion Mehmet IV (1648–87). The reign Open 10am–5pm Tue, Thu, Fri;
10am–7pm Wed & Sat; noon–5pm
block faces the Bosphorus and of his son Ahmet III is known as
Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1st day of religious
serves as the headquarters for the Tulip Period (see p29) due to
hols. 8 & 7 - =
Borusan Holdings on weekdays. his fascination with the flowers. ∑ muze.sabanciuniv.edu
During the weekend, it trans- In the late 19th century
forms into one of the city’s best Sultan Abdül Aziz gave the With a superb view over the
contemporary art spaces. The park to the Egyptian Khedive Bosphorus, the Sakıp Sabancı
sculpture-studded rooftop (see p31), İsmail Paşa, and its Museum is also known as the
provides spectacular views of three pavilions date from that Horse Mansion (Atlı Köşk). Exhib-
the Second Bosphorus Bridge era. They are known by their itions comprise over 400 years of
and Fortress of Europe. colours. The Sarı Köşk (Yellow Ottoman calligraphy and other
Pavilion), built in the style Koranic and secular art treasures.
of a Swiss chalet, suffered The collection of paintings is
8 Kanlıca fire damage in 1954 and was exquisite, with works by Ottoman
re-built in concrete with a court painters and European
Asian side. @ 15, 101.
façade resembling the original. artists enthralled with Turkey.
A delicious, creamy type The Beyaz Köşk (White Pavilion) It hosts some of the city's most
of yogurt is Kanlıca’s best- is a Neo-Classical style mansion, prestigious art and culture
known asset. The İskender while the Pembe Köşk (Pink exhibitions. The works of Picasso
Paşa Mosque, overlooking the Pavilion) is in the style of a and Dali have been showcased
village square, is a minor work traditional Ottoman house. here. The museum also houses
by Sinan (see p93), built for Sultan All three are now cafés. the Muze de Changa restaurant.
Süleyman’s vizier İskender Paşa
in 1559–60. There have been
changes to the original building: Birds of the Bosphorus
the wooden dome has been In September and October, thousands
replaced by a flat roof, and the of white storks and birds of prey fly over
porch was added later. the Bosphorus on their way from their
There are a number of yalıs in breeding grounds in eastern Europe to
and around Kanlıca, including wintering regions in Africa. Large birds
the Köprülü Amcazade Hüseyin usually prefer to cross narrow straits like
Paşa Yalı (see p141), the oldest the Bosphorus rather than fly over an
surviving Bosphorus yalı, just expanse of open water such as the
south of the village. This was Mediterranean. Among birds of prey on
built in 1698 by Mustafa II’s grand this route you can see the lesser spotted
vizier Hüseyin Paşa, the fourth eagle and the honey buzzard. The birds
grand vizier from the Köprülü also cross the straits in spring on their
family. The Treaty of Karlowitz, way to Europe but, before the breeding The white stork, which
in which the Ottomans acknow- season, they are fewer in number. migrates over the straits
ledged the loss of territory to
headpieces over the mirrors.

The pavilion’s lounge retains
an Oriental feel, with a low
sofa and a central coal-
burning brazier.
Behind the small but elegant
Mabeyn-i Hümayun (the
Private Apartments) is a large
conservatory full of camellias,
ferns and banana plants.
Nearby, at the edge of the
forest stands a tiny octagonal
folly with an ornate balcony
called the Çadır Köşkü, or Tent
Pavilion, which now serves
as a bookshop.
Hot-house plants in the conservatory at Maslak Pavilions
q Maslak The buildings are thought to w Khedive’s

Pavilions date mainly from the reign of Palace
Abdül Aziz (1861–76). He
Maslak Kasırları gave Maslak to his nephew Hidiv Kasrı
Büyükdere Cad, Maslak. Tel (0212) Abdül Hamit in the hope Hidiv Kasrı Yolu 32, Çubuklu.
346 19 07. @ 40S (from Taksim). that he would then stop Tel (0216) 413 96 64. @ 15, 15A, 15P
Open 9:30am–5pm Tue, Wed & Fri– sailing at Tarabya (see p150), (from Üsküdar) or 221 (from Taksim),
Sun (Nov–Feb until 4pm). which his uncle regarded then 5 mins’ walk from Kanlica.
as unsafe. Open 9am–11pm daily (May–Oct: to
This small group of buildings The four main buildings are 10:30pm). - ∑ hidivkasri.com
was a royal hunting lodge less ornate than other 19th-
and country residence, much century pavilions in Istanbul. Built in 1907 by the last khedive
prized for its glorious views. This is possibly due to the (hereditary viceroy of Egypt,
The pavilions were built in the austere character of Abdül see p31), Abbas Hilmi II, this
early and mid-19th century, Hamit. He personally crafted summer palace is one of the
when the focus of Istanbul the balustrades of the beautiful city’s most striking buildings
court life moved away from central staircase in the Kasr-ı of its era. Its tower is an
Topkapı Palace (see pp56–61), Hümayun (the Pavilion of the imposing landmark for those
in the centre of the city, to the Sultan) during his stay here. travelling up the Bosphorus.
sultans’ lavish estates along His initials in Western script – The Italian architect Delfo
the shore of the Bosphorus. AH – can also be seen in the Seminati based the design
of the palace on an Italianate
villa, throwing in Art Nouveau
Jason and the Symplegades and Ottoman elements. Most
The upper Bosphorus features in the Greek myth of Jason’s search impressive of all is the round
for the Golden Fleece. The Argonauts, Jason’s crew, helped a local entrance hall. This is entered
king, Phineus, by ridding through Art Nouveau glass
him of the harpies (female doors and features a stained-
demons) sent by Zeus to glass skylight above a central
torment him. In return, the fountain surrounded by eight
king advised them on how pairs of elegant columns.
to tackle the Symplegades, Renovated by the Turkish
two rocks at the mouth of Touring Club (TTOK, see
the Bosphorus which were p245), the palace is now a
reputed to clash together, luxury restaurant.
making passage impossible.
His advice was to send a
dove in advance of the e Beykoz
ship; if it went through
safely, so would the ship. Asian shore. @ 15 (from Üsküdar) or
This the Argonauts duly did, 221 (from Taksim).
and the rocks clipped the
dove’s tail feathers. The Beykoz is famous for its
Argo then went through walnuts (beykoz means “prince’s
with only some damage Jason and the Argonauts making their way walnut”) and for the glass
to its stern. through the Symplegades produced here in the 1800s. The
distinctive, mainly opaque,
THE BOSPHORUS 145
the Azaryan Yalı, is the The neighbouring building is

former summer house of called the Sevgi Gönül Wing.
the wealthy Koç family. A Also dating from the early 20th
four-storey mansion, it century, it was bought to house
was built in 1911 and, the archaeological collection of
like many buildings of Hüseyin Kocabaş, a friend of the
the time, was inspired Koç family. Displays are ordered
by European architec- chronologically, ranging from
ture. The distinctive the late Neolithic period (5400
criss-crossed wooden BC) to the Ottoman era.
slats on its façade Exhibits are changed from
distinguish it from the time to time, but typically
neighbouring buildings. include Assyrian cuneiform
It contains some fine tablets dating from the second
ethnographic artifacts millennium BC, Phrygian
collected by Sadberk metalwork and Greek pottery
Hanım, wife of the from the late Geometric Period
Fountain in the village square at Beykoz industrialist Vehbi Koç, (750–680 BC). Among other
to whom the museum items are Byzantine reliquary
Beykoz glass (see p213), with is dedicated. She found many and pendent crosses, and a
its rich colours and graceful of them in the Grand Bazaar selection of Roman
designs, can be seen in (see pp100–101) and in Istanbul’s gold jewellery.
museums all over Turkey. other markets. A number of
Nowadays, the village’s exhibits are laid out in tableaux
main attraction is its fish depicting 19th-century t Rumeli Kavağı
restaurants, which serve Ottoman society. These include European shore. @ 25A (from
excellent turbot. a henna party, at which the Beşiktaş). g Rumeli Kavağı.
A fine fountain stands groom’s female relatives
in the central square. would apply henna to This pretty village has a
Built on the orders the hands of his bride; broad selection of restaurants
of Sultan Mahmut I and a circumcision specializing in fish and fried
(see p35), it is called bed, with a young boy mussels. They are clustered
the İshak Ağa Çeşmesi, dressed in traditional around the harbour from where
after the customs costume. Also worth there are views of the wild, rocky
inspector who seeking out in this shores on the approach to the
commissioned it in section is a display of Black Sea. On the hill above
1746. It has a large infinitely delicate oya, Rumeli Kavağı are the scant
domed and Turkish embroideries. remains of a castle, İmros Kalesi,
colonnaded loggia, Attic vase, Sadberk These remark ably built by Manuel I Comnenus
and 10 conduits Hanım Museum life-like pieces imitate (see p23) in the 12th century
spouting a constant garlands of flowers, to guard his customs point.
stream of water. such as carnations, roses, Further up the Bosphorus, the
Industrialization, mainly hyacinths and lilies and were shore road leads from Rumeli
bottling and leather factories, used to fringe scarves and Kavağı to Altın Kum beach. This
has taken its toll, and only a petticoats. Some of the examples small strip of sand backed by
remaining few buildings hint at on show were made in palace restaurants is popular with
the village’s former splendour. harems in the 18th century. local people.
r Sadberk Hanım
Museum
Sadberk Hanım Müzesi
Piyasa Cad 27–29, Büyükdere.
Tel (0212) 242 38 13. @ 25E.
Open 10am–6pm Thu–Tue. & ^
∑ sadberkhanimmuzesi.org.tr
Occupying two archetypal

wooden Bosphorus yalıs (see
p141), the Sadberk Hanım
Museum was the first private
museum to open in Turkey, in
1981. The larger of these yalıs, The fishing village of Rumeli Kavağı, on the upper Bosphorus
The Bosphorus Trip Black Sea
One of the great pleasures of a visit to Istanbul is a cruise up

EUROPE
the Bosphorus. You can go on a pre-arranged guided tour or
take one of the small boats that tout for passengers at Eminönü.
But there is no better way to travel than on the official trip run
ASIA
by Istanbul Sea Bus Company (İDO, see pp242–3), which is
ISTANBUL
described on the following pages. The İDO Bosphorus Cruise
makes a round trip to the upper Bosphorus two or three times Locator Map
daily, stopping at six piers along the way. You can return to
Eminönü on the same boat or make your way back by bus,
dolmuş or taxi. A 2-hour cruise also departs daily from
Eminönü and Üsküdar.
Naval
Museum
(see p128)
Dolmabahçe Palace
This opulent 19th-century palace
(see pp130–31) has a series of ornate
gates along the waterfront. These
were used by the sultan to enter the
palace from his imperial barge.
Barbaros Beşiktaş
Hayrettin
Paşa
Beşiktaş FC
Stadium
Kabataş National Palaces

Painting Museum
(see p128)
View of the City Dolmabahçe

As the ferry departs, you Mosque was
have a view of many of the completed in 1855,
old monuments of Istanbul, a year before the
including Süleymaniye palace (see p128).
Mosque, seen in this picture.
Galata
Bridge Karaköy
Eminönü
Eminönü Port Leander’s Tower

The official One the landmarks of the city, this
Bosphorus ferry white tower stands prominently
departs from in mid-channel, a short way off
Istanbul’s busiest the Asian shore (see p132).
ferry terminal.
THE BOSPHORUS 147
See pages
148–9
Key
Motorway Kuleli Military
School has a
Main road
Arnavutköy pretty wooden
Other road mosque beside it.
Built-up area
Route of Bosphorus trip
Mecidiye Mosque
Sultan Abdül
Mecit I ordered the
construction of this Galatasaray Island
Baroque mosque on a is a public pool and
promontory near the bar/ restaurant.
ferry pier at Ortaköy
(see p124).
Çengelköy
Sadullah Paşa Yalı, built
in 1783, is painted red-
brown, as are many
old yalıs (see p141).
Ortaköy
(see p124)
Yıldız Park Beylerbeyi
(see pp126–7) Bosphorus
Bridge
(see p140)
Kuzguncuk
Çırağan Palace dates
Fethi Ahmet
from 1874, but had
to be rebuilt after a Paşa Yalı
devastating fire in 1910. (see p141)
It is now a luxury hotel
(see p125).
Mihrimah Sultan
Mosque (see p133)
Beylerbeyi Palace
Üsküdar The palace grounds contain two
shore-side bathing pavilions: one for
men and the other for the women
of the harem (see p140).
Eminönü Pier 3 (Boğaz Hattı).
Map 3 D2. Tel (0212) 444 18 51.
& Tickets should be purchased
at the departure pier. -
∑ sehirhatlari.com.tr
Şemsi Paşa Mosque Transport
The circular windows of this 16th-century v Eminönü. g May–Sep:
mosque by Sinan (see p132) are an allusion 10:30am & 1:30pm daily; Oct–Apr:
to Şemsi Paşa, whose name derives from 10:30am daily. Round trip takes
Harem the word “shams”, meaning “sun” in Arabic. 6 hours.

The Middle Bosphorus Black Sea
North of Arnavutköy, the outskirts of Istanbul give way to EUROPE

attractive towns and villages, such as Bebek with its bars
and cafés. The Bosphorus flows fast and deep as the channel
reaches its narrowest point – 700 m (2,300 ft) across – on the ASIA
approach to the Fatih Sultan Mehmet bridge. It was at this ISTANBUL
point that the Persian emperor Darius and his army crossed
the Bosphorus on a pontoon bridge in 512 BC, on their way Locator Map
to fight the Greeks. Two famous old fortresses face each other
across the water near here. Several elegant yalıs are also found
in this part of the strait, particularly in the region known to
Europeans as the Sweet Waters of Asia.
İstinye Bay
This huge natural bay, the
largest inlet on the
Bosphorus, has been used
as a dock for centuries.
There is a fish market along
the quay every morning.
Emirgan Park
Borusan
Situated above the
Contempora
pretty village of Emirgan,
this park is famous
for its tulips in spring
(see p46). The grounds
contain pleasant cafés
and pavilions (see p143).
The Bosphorus University, one

of the most prestigious in Turkey,
enjoys spectacular views. Almost
all teaching here is in English.
Bebek (see
p140)
Egyptian
Consulate
(see p140) Kandilli
Fortress of Europe
Situated at the narrowest point on the
Bosphorus, this fortress (see p142) was built
by Mehmet II in 1452, as a prelude to his
invasion of Constantinople (see p28). See pages 146–7
Arnavutköy
THE BOSPHORUS 149
See pages
150–51
Yeniköy
Yeniköy Handsome 19th-century villas define
the waterfront of this village dating from
Byzantine times. Paşabahçe
Sait Halim
Paşa Yalı
İstinye
Kanlıca is a pretty
village (see p143) with
a mosque built by
Sinan (see p93). It is
also known for its Çubuklu
delicious yogurt.
Khedive’s Palace
Above çubuklu stands the palace built
by the last viceroy of Egypt (see p31),
Kanlica Ethem Pertev Abbas Hilmi Paşa, in around 1900. It is
Yalı (see p141) now a hotel and restaurant (see p144).
Fortress of Asia
Fifty years older
Fatih Sultan than the Fortress of
ry Mehmet Europe, this fortress
Bridge was built by Beyazıt I
just before the failed
Ottoman siege of
Köprülü Constantinople
Amcazade in 1396–7.
Hüseyin
Paşa Yalı (see
p143)
Anadolu
Hisarı Göksu River
Küçüksu This pretty little river and the
Palace (see Küçüksu River south of it are
p142) together known as the Sweet
Waters of Asia (see p142).
Kırmızı Yalı
(see p142) Key
Motorway
Main road
Other road
Built-up area
0 metres 750
0 yards 750

The Upper Bosphorus Black Sea
In the 19th-century ambassadors to Turkey built their

EUROPE
summer retreats between Tarabya and Büyükdere, on
the European side of the Bosphorus. As the hills fall more
steeply towards the shore along the upper reaches of the
ASIA
straits, the built-up area peters out. There is time to explore
ISTANBUL
and take lunch at Anadolu Kavaği on the Asian side before
the boat returns to Eminönü. You can also catch a bus or Locator Map
dolmuş back to the city. The Bosphorus itself continues for

8 km (5 miles) or so to meet the Black Sea, but the land on
both sides of this stretch is now under military control.
Sarıyer
Sadberk Hanım Museum
This museum, housed in
two wooden yalıs, has a
variety of interesting
exhibits. These include
antiquities from Greece
and Rome, and Ottoman
craftwork (see p145). Büyükdere
Tarabya Bay
The small village set within a lovely
bay first attracted wealthy Greeks
in the 18th century. The bay still
thrives as an exclusive resort with
upmarket fish restaurants.
Fishing on the
Bosphorus Huber Köşkü is
a 19th-century
A multitude of fishing
yalı owned by
vessels ply the waters of the
the government.
Bosphorus, ranging from large
trawlers returning from the
Black Sea to tiny rowing boats
from which a line is cast into
the water. On a trip up the
Bosphorus you often see
seine nets spread out in circles,
suspended from floats on the Fishing boats at Sarıyer, the main fishing
surface. The main types of fish port on the Bosphorus
caught are mackerel, mullet,
hamsi (similar to anchovy, see p192) and sardine. Much of the fish
caught is sold at Istanbul’s principal fish market in Kumkapı.
THE BOSPHORUS 151
Rumeli Kavağı
This village is the most
northerly ferry stop on the
European side (see p145). From
here the Bosphorus widens
out to meet the Black Sea.
Rumeli
Kavağı
Anadolu
Kavağı
Anadolu Kavağı
A short climb from this village – the last stop on
the trip – brings you to a ruined 14th-century
Byzantine fortress, the Genoese Castle, from which
there are great views over the straits.
Beykoz
Beykoz is the largest
fishing village along the
Asian shore. Close to its
village square, which
has this fountain dating
from 1746, are several
fish restaurants which are
very popular in summer
(see p144).
Key
Main road
Beykoz Other road

Built-up area
Halil 0 metres 750

Ethem Yalı 0 yards 750
(see p145)
See pages 148–9
E XC U R S I O N S F R O M I S TA N B U L 153
EXCURSIONS FROM
ISTANBUL
Standing at a natural crossroads, Istanbul makes a good base for
excursions into the neighbouring areas of Thrace and Anatolia –
European and Asian Turkey respectively. Whether you want to see
great Islamic architecture, immerse yourself in a busy bazaar, relax
on an island or in a lakeside town, you will find a choice of destinations
within easy reach of the city.
On public holidays and weekends, bright yellow sunflowers, is Edirne, the

nearby resorts become crowded with former Ottoman capital, famed for its
Istanbul residents taking a break from fine mosques, especially the Selimiye.
the noisy city. For longer breaks, they South of the Sea of Marmara is the pretty
head for the Mediterranean or Aegean, spa town of Bursa, originally a Greek city
so summer is a good time to explore which was founded in 183 BC. The first
the Marmara and western Black Sea Ottoman capital, it has some fine archi-
regions while they are quiet. tecture. The pretty lakeside town of İznik,
The country around Istanbul varies a major producer of ceramics in Ottoman
immensely from lush forests to open plains times, lies across the Sea of Marmara.
and, beyond them, impressive mountains. Near the mouth of the straits of the
The Belgrade Forest is one of the closest Dardanelles (which link the Sea of Marmara
green areas to the city if you want a short to the Aegean) lie the ruins of the legendary
break. The Princes’ Islands, where the pine city of Troy, dating from as early as 3600 BC.
forests and monasteries can be toured by North of the Dardanelles are cemeteries
a pleasant ride in a horse and carriage, are commemorating the battles which were
also just a short boat trip away from the city. fought over the Gallipoli peninsula during
Further away, through rolling fields of World War I.
Boats in Burgaz Harbour on the Princes’ Islands, a short ferry ride from Istanbul
Yeşil Türbe, also known as the Green Tomb, Bursa
Exploring Beyond Istanbul

Within a radius of 250 km (150 miles) of Istanbul there
are many destinations worth visiting. To the northwest
is Edirne, an attractive riverside town and the location
of several fine mosques. South of Istanbul is Bursa, Burgas
which lies at the foot of Uludağ, a mountain
famed for its skiing. Closer to Istanbul are the BULGARIA
Black Sea resorts of Şile, Polonezköy and
Kilyos, and the Princes’ Islands, which are İğneada
Lalapaşa
easily reached by ferry. The war cemeteries
Demirköy
of the Dardanelles and the site of ancient Khaskovo Süloğlu Yı l
dız
Kırklareli
Troy require a longer trip. Da
ğla
EDİRNE rı
Hasköy Pınarhisar
Havsa Vize
Karacaoğlan
Babaeski Saray
GREECE Lüleburgaz
Uzunköprü Büyükkarıstıran
Meriç
Hayrabolu
i
Muratlı
ağ
Çorlu
m
Ir
Küplü e Hamidiye
en Banarlı
E rg Seymen
Susuzmüsellim
İpsala Paşayiğit Tekirdağ

Malkara
İnecik
Keşan
Alexandroúpoli Ballı Kumbağ
Karahisar
ağ
ı
The 15th-century Beyazıt II

rD
Mosque in Edirne Enez kla
I sı
Mecidiye Marmara Marmara
Şarköy MARMARA
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Kö r Bolayır s) ISLANDS
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Sar ane Avşa
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Gelibolu (D
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Bo
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na BIRD PARADISE
Ça
Gökçeada Eceabat NATIONAL PARK

Çanakkale Biga
Gallipoli Kuş Gölü
Peninsula THE Gönen
Cape Helles DARDANELLES Çan
yı
Ça
TROY en
ön
G
Bozcaada
Ezine
AEGEAN Balıkesir
SEA Edremit
Ayvacık Ivrindi
Edremit
Körfezi Burhaniye
Key Savaştepe
Motorway Ayvalık
Main road
Minor road İzmir
Scenic route
Main railway
0 kilometres 25
Minor railway
International border 0 miles 25

Sights at a Glance
1 Edirne pp156–9
2 Kilyos
3 Belgrade Forest
4 Şile
5 Princes’ Islands
6 Termal
7 İznik
8 Bursa pp164–70
9 Uludağ National Park
0 Bird Paradise National Park
Iğneada Burnu q Marmara Islands
w The Dardanelles
e Troy View over the picturesque city of Bursa
Kıyıköy
Safaalan BLACK SEA

Karacaköy
Durusu KİLYOS
Bahçeköy
Sarıyer
Sinekli BELGRADE ŞİLE
Beykoz
Çatalca FOREST
Kandıra
Silivri
Büyük ISTANBUL
Çekmece Küçük
Çekmece
PRINCES’ Adapazarı
ISLANDS İzmit
Marmara Denizi Gebze
Gölcük
(Sea of Marmara) Ankara
Yalova
TERMAL Geyve
Armutlu
Gemlik İznik Gölü İZNİK
ri
Mudanya Neh
Bandırma r ya
Yenişehir Sak a
Karacabey
Bilecik
yı
Ulubat Cumalıkızık
BURSA
Ça
Gölü
İnegöl
av
Si m
Mustafakemalpaşa
ULUDAĞ
NATIONAL PARK
Susurluk
Kepsut
Getting Around
The road network around
Istanbul is steadily improving,
and modern, cheap and efficient
coaches (see p244) will get you
to most places. Ferries and sea
buses (see p244) cross the Sea of
Marmara to ports on its southern
shore and reach both the Princes’
and Marmara Islands. One of the main ski runs in Uludağ National Park
1 Edirne
Standing on the river Tunca near the border with Greece,
Edirne is a provincial university town which is home to
one of Turkey’s star attractions, the Selimiye Mosque (see
pp158–9). As this huge monument attests, Edirne was
historically of great importance. It dates back to AD 125,
when the Roman Emperor Hadrian joined two small
towns to form Hadrianopolis, or Adrianople. For nearly a Entrance arch, Mosque of the Three Balconies
century, from when Murat I (see p27) took the city in 1361
until Constantinople was conquered in 1453 (see p28), Edirne predecessors in Bursa (see pp164–
70), the mosque has an open
was the Ottoman capital. The town has one other claim to courtyard, setting a precedent
fame – the annual grease wrestling championships in June. for the great imperial mosques
of Istanbul. The plan of its interior
was also innovative. With minimal
afflictions. The colonnaded obstructions, the mihrab and
inner mosque courtyard, unlike minbar can both be seen from
most later examples, covers almost every corner of the prayer
three times the area of the hall. Like the minarets, the dome,
mosque itself. Inside, the too, was the largest of its time.
weight of the impressive dome
is supported on sweeping U Old Mosque
pendentives. Eski Cami Talat Paşa Asfaltı.
Open daily. ^
U Mosque of the The oldest of Edirne’s major
Three Balconies mosques, this is a smaller version
Üç Şerefeli Camii Hükümet Cad. of the Great Mosque in Bursa
Open daily. ^ (see p166). The eldest son of
Until the fall of Constantinople, Beyazıt I (see p34), Süleyman,
this was the grandest building began the mosque in 1403, but
Entrance to Beyazıt II Mosque viewed from in the early Ottoman state. It it was his youngest son, Mehmet I,
its inner courtyard was finished in 1447 and takes who completed it in 1414.
its name from the three balconies A perfect square, the mosque
U Beyazıt II Mosque adorning its southeast minaret, is divided by four massive piers
Beyazıt II KülliyesiYeniimaret Mah at the time the tallest in existence. into nine domed sections. On
Beyazıt Cad. Open daily. Health In an unusual touch, the other either side of the prayer hall
Museum: Tel (0284) 212 09 22. three minarets of the mosque entrance there are massive
Open 9am–5:30pm daily. & 7 are each of a different design Arabic inscriptions proclaiming
Beyazıt II Mosque stands in and height. Unlike its “Allah” and “Mohammed”.
a peaceful location on the
northern bank of the Tunca River,
1.5 km (1 mile) from the town Grease Wrestling
centre. It was built in 1484–8, The Kırkpınar Grease Wrestling Championships take place at the
soon after Beyazıt II (see p34) end of June, in Sarayiçi Er Meydanı, a field near Edirne. Established
succeeded Mehmet the in 1346, the event is famed throughout Turkey. Before competing,
Conqueror (see p28) as sultan. the wrestlers dress in knee-
The mosque and its courtyards length leather shorts (kispet)
are open to the public. Of the and grease themselves from
surrounding buildings in the head to foot in diluted olive oil.
complex, the old hospital, which The master of ceremonies, the
incorporated an asylum, has cazgır, then invites the competitors
to take part in a high-stepping,
been converted into the Health
arm-flinging parade across the
Museum. Disturbed patients
field, accompanied by music
were treated in the asylum – a played on a deep-toned drum
model of its time – with water, (davul) and a single-reed oboe
colour and flower therapies. (zurna). Wrestling bouts can
The Turkish writer Evliya Çelebi last up to 2 hours and involve
(1611–84) reported that singers long periods of frozen, silent
and instrumentalists would play concentration interspersed
soothing music here three times Grease wrestlers parading before by attempts to throw down
a week. Overuse of hashish was they fight the opponent.
one of the commonest
EDİRNE 157
P Rüstem Paşa the medrese of the Selimiye VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Caravanserai Mosque (see pp158–9).
Rüstem Paşa Kervansarayı The museum’s first room is Practical Information
İki Kapılı Han Cad 57. devoted to the local sport of 210 km (130 miles) NW of Istanbul.
Tel (0284) 212 61 19. grease wrestling. It includes * 150,000.  Rüstempaşa
Sinan (see p93) designed this enlarged reproductions of Kervansaray Hotel. n Hürriyet
caravanserai for Süleyman’s miniatures depicting 600 years Meydanı 17, (0284) 213 92 08.
( Mon–Thu, Sat. _ Grease
most powerful grand vizier, of the sport. These show the
Wrestling (late Jun); Liberation
Rüstem Paşa (see p90), in wrestling stars resplendent
Day (25 Nov). ∑ kirkpinar.org
1560–61. It was constructed in their leather shorts, their
in two distinct parts. The larger skin glistening with olive oil. Transport
courtyard, or han (see p98), Other objects on display £ Ayşekadin, (0284) 235 26 73.
which is now the Rüstempaşa include the original doors of @ Talat Paşa Cad, (0284) 225 19 79.
Kervansaray Hotel (see p188), the Beyazıt II Mosque. There
was built for the merchants of are also military exhibits. Among
Edirne, while the smaller court- them are some beautiful 18th- U Muradiye Mosque
yard, now a student hostel, was century Ottoman shields, with Muradiye Camii
an inn for other travellers. woven silk exteriors, and Küçükpazar Cad.
A short walk away, on the paintings of military subjects. Open prayer times only. ^
other side of Saraçlar Caddesi, This mosque was
is the Semiz Ali Paşa Bazaar, built as a zaviye (dervish
where Edirne’s merchants still hospice) in 1421 by
sell their wares. This is another Murat II (see p34),
work of Sinan, dating from 1589. who dreamt that the
It consists of a long, narrow great dervish leader
street of vaulted shops. Celaleddin Rumi (see
p107) asked him to build
E Museum of Turkish one in Edirne. Only later
and Islamic Arts was it converted into a
Türk ve İslam Eserleri Müzesi mosque. Its interior is
Kadir Paşa Mektep Sok. notable for its massive
Tel (0284) 225 16 25. inscriptions, similar to
Open 8am–6pm Tue–Sun. & those in the Old Mosque,
Edirne’s small collection of and for some fine early
Turkish and Islamic works of 15th-century İznik tiles
art is attractively located in The tranquil 15th-century Muradiye Mosque (see p163).
Edİrne City Centre

1 Beyazıt II Mosque 4 Rüstem Paşa 6 Museum of Turkish and
2 Mosque of the Three Caravanserai Islamic Arts
Balconies 5 Selimiye Mosque 7 Muradiye Mosque
3 Old Mosque see pp158–9
0 metres 750
0 yards 750
HO
Beyazıt II
RO
Mosque
Beyazıt
ZL
Bridge
D
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Muradiye
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AG N
AÇ RA Ruins of D
PA Z KA
AR C A
IC
A
Hamam of
N AN
Gazi Mihal TA LA
D Janısserien SI
T PA Mosque of the R
Bridge Ş Kule A Archaeological and
A C Three Balconies M
AD Kapisi MI Ethnographic Museum
Hürriyet
Meyd Belediye Museum of Turkish
OR
TAK and Islamic Arts
API Bedesten
CA
D Semiz Ali Dilaver
Bey Parki Selimiye Mosque
Paşa Bazaar
BA Old Mosque
MIT
LIK
PA Z ISTANBUL
KI
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HA
CA YI
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CU Rüstem Paşa
AR
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MA
FYE
Ş
AÇL
TC
A
A D
CA
SAR
Bus Station Train Station

2 km (1.25 miles) 3 km (2 miles)
Key to symbols see back flap

Edirne: Selimiye Mosque

Selimiye Camii
The Selimiye is the greatest of all the Ottoman
mosque complexes, the apogee of an art form
and the culmination of a lifetime’s ambition for
its architect, Sinan (see p93). Built on a slight hill,
the mosque is a prominent landmark. Its complex
includes a medrese (see p40), now housing the
Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts (see p157), a
school and the Kavaflar Arasta, a covered bazaar.
Selim II (see p29) commissioned the mosque. It . Minarets
The mosque’s four slender
was begun in 1569 and completed in 1575, a year minarets tower to a height
after his death. The dome was Sinan’s proudest of 84 m (275 ft). Each one
achievement. In his memoirs, he wrote: “With the has three balconies. The two
help of Allah and the favour of Sultan Selim Khan, northern minarets contain
three intertwining staircases,
I have succeeded in building a cupola six cubits each one leading to a
wider and four cubits deeper than that of Haghia different balcony.
Sophia”. In fact, the dome is of a diameter
comparable to and slightly shallower than that
of the building (see pp74–7) Sinan had so
longed to surpass.
KEY
1 The columns supporting the

arches of the courtyard are made
of old marble, plundered from
Byzantine architecture.
2 The müezzin mahfili (see p40)
still retains original, intricate 16th-
century paintwork on its underside.
Beneath it is a small fountain. Ablutions Fountain
Intricate, pierced carving decorates the top
3 Mihrab, cut from of the 16-sided open şadırvan (ablutions
Marmara marble fountain), which stands in the centre of
4 Entrance from Kavaflar the courtyard. The absence of a canopy
Arasta helps to retain the uncluttered aspect
of the courtyard.
Courtyard Portals
Alternating red and honey-
coloured slabs of stone were used to
build the striking arches above the courtyard
portals. This echoes the decoration of the
magnificent arches running around the
mosque courtyard itself.
EDİRNE 159
. Dome VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The dome masterfully
dominates the entire Practical Information
interior of the mosque. Mimar Sinan Cad, Edirne.
Not even the florid Tel (0284) 213 97 35.
paintwork – the original Open daily. Closed prayer times.
16th-century decoration
underwent restoration in
the 19th century – detracts
from its effect.
. Minbar
Many experts claim that the
Selimiye’s minbar, with its
conical tiled cap, is the finest
in Turkey. Its lace-like side
panels are exquisitely carved.
The Interior
The mosque is the supreme
achievement of Islamic archi-
tecture. Its octagonal plan allows
for a reduction in the size of the
buttresses supporting the dome.
This permitted extra windows
to be incorporated, making the
mosque exceptionally light inside.
Sultan’s Loge
The imperial loge is supported on green
marble columns. They are connected by
pointed arches, whose surrounds are adorned
with floral İznik tiles (see p163). Unusually, its
Main ornately decorated mihrab contains a shuttered
entrance window, which opened on to countryside
when the mosque was first built.
2 Kilyos
27 km (17 miles) N of Istanbul.
* 1,665.  from Sarıyer.
Kilyos, on the shore of the

Black Sea, is the closest seaside
resort to Istanbul and very
popular. It has a long, sandy
beach and temptingly clear
water, but visitors should not
swim here in the absence of
a lifeguard because there are
dangerous currents.
A 14th-century Genoese
castle perches on a clifftop
overlooking the town but it
is not open to visitors. There
are a couple of private beach Büyük Bent, a Byzantine dam and reservoir in the Belgrade Forest
clubs here, such as Dalia (www.
clubdalia.com) and Solar Beach The oldest structure, Büyük clifftop lighthouse. In antiquity,
(www.solarbeach.com.tr). Both Bent (Great Reservoir), dates the village, then known as
offer loungers, sunshades and back to the early Byzantine era. Kalpe, was a port used by ships
water sports. Solar Beach hosts It is a pleasant half-hour walk sailing east from the Bosphorus.
a popular Electronic Music from Neşetsuyu picnic area. Şile’s lighthouse, the largest in
festival every June. Meanwhile, the Sultan Mahmut Turkey, was built by the French
Dam, outside the park’s gate, for Sultan Abdül Mecit (see p32)
is a fine curve of marble which in 1858–9; it can be visited
3 Belgrade Forest dates from 1839. after dusk. Apart from tourism,
Belgrad Ormanı Eğri Kemer (Crooked Aqueduct) the main industry is now the
and Uzun Kemer (Long production of a coarse cotton
20 km (12 miles) N of Istanbul. @ 42, Aqueduct) are on the D010 which is made into clothing
40S from Taksim to Çayırbaşı, then 42 road between Levent and and sold in shops along
to Bahçeköy. Park: Tel (0212) 226 13
Kısırmandıra and are best reached Üsküdar Caddesi.
14. Open May–Sep: 6am–9pm daily;
by taxi. Both have impressive
Oct–Apr: 7am–7:30pm. & 7
rows of arches. The former
One of the most popular probably dates from the 12th 5 Princes’ Islands
escapes from the city, the century, while Sinan (see p93) Adalar
Belgrade Forest is the only built the latter for Süleyman
sizeable piece of woodland the Magnificent (see p28). 12 km (7 miles) SE of Istanbul.
* 16,171. g 8–10 crossings daily
in the immediate vicinity of
from Kabatas to Büyükada (in winter,
Istanbul. The forest is made
15 in summer). n (0216) 382 70 71.
up of pines, oaks, beeches, 4 Şile
chestnuts and poplars, beneath 72 km (45 miles) NE of Istanbul. The pine-forested Princes’
which a profusion of wild * 25,372. @ from Üsküdar. Islands are a welcome break
flowers grow in spring. Within from the bustle of the city and
it is a huge woodland park, best The quintessential Black Sea are just a short ferry or sea bus
visited during the week, since holiday village of Şile has a ride southeast from Istanbul so
it attracts hordes of picnickers number of fine, sandy beaches are ideal for day trips. The most
at weekends. The main entrance and a black-and-white striped frequently used ferries depart
to the park is near from Kabataş. Most ferries stop
the village of at the four largest islands,
Bahçeköy and the namely Kınalıada, Burgazada,
popular Neşetsuyu Heybeliada and Büyükada. The
picnic area is a half- journey time to the nearest
hour stroll from island, Kınalıada, is less than one
this gate. hour and to the largest and
The park’s other furthest island, Büyükada, 1.5
attractions are the hours. Less frequent high-speed
relics of the dams, catamarans or sea buses cover
reservoirs and the journey to Büyükada in a
aqueducts used for little over half an hour, but are
over 1,000 years to more expensive.
transport spring The islands take their name
water in to Istanbul. Şile, a holiday resort and centre for cotton production from a royal palace built by
Justin II on Büyükada, then material on the flora and fauna,

known as Prinkipo (Island of geology and history of the
the Prince) in 569. During the islands.
Byzantine era the islands became To the left of the ferry pier on
infamous as a place of exile. Heybeliada, the second-largest
Members of the royal family and island, is the imposing former
public figures were often ban- Naval High School (Deniz Harp
ished to the monasteries here. Okulu), built in 1942. The island’s
In the latter half of the 19th northern hill is the stunning
century, with the launch of a location of the Greek Orthodox
steamboat service from Istanbul, School of Theology (built in
several wealthy expatriates 1841). The school is now closed
settled on the islands, including but its library, famous among
Leon Trotsky. From 1929–33 he Orthodox scholars, is still open
lived at 55 Çankaya Caddesi, and can be visited by appoint-
one of the finest mansions on ment. The island also has a
Büyükada. pleasant beach on its south
Büyükada, the largest coast at Çam Limanı Köyü.
island, attracts the most Kınalıada is favoured Ornamental fountain at Atatürk’s former
visitors with its sandy by Istanbul’s dwindling house at Termal
beaches and fin-de-siècle Armenian community as
elegance. Its 19th- a summer retreat. The (7 miles) from the port of Yalova.
century atmosphere is slightly larger Burgazada Its popularity was revived by
enhanced by the omni- is crowned by a ruined Sultan Abdül Hamit II (see p35) in
presence of horse- Byzantine monastery the early 20th century, when he
drawn phaetons. These and the 19th-century refurbished the Yalova Termal
quaint carriages are Orthodox Greek church Baths, now part of the Ministry
the only form of public of John the Baptist. of Health complex of five baths
transport on the islands Door to the Another major and four hotels. Facilities include
since motorized trans- Monastery of attraction is the oppor- Turkish baths (see p69), a sauna
port is banned. Another St George tunity to swim in one of and a swimming pool.
popular alternative is the the pay beaches and Atatürk enjoyed taking the
bicycle. There are rental outlets sunbathe along the shores. waters here. The small chalet-
in the main town on each style house he built at the
of the four main islands. bottom of the valley, now the
At the top of Büyükada’s Atatürk Museum, preserves
wooded southern hill, in a 6 Termal some of his possessions.
clearing, stands the Monastery 38 km (24 miles) SE of Istanbul.
of St George. It is a 20th-century * 5,018. g from Kabataş to Yalova.  Yalova Termal Baths
structure, built on Byzantine n Termal-Yalova, (0226) 675 74 00. Termal. Tel (0226) 675 74 00.
foundations. On the eastern Open 8am–10pm daily.
side of the island, the small but This small spa buried deep E Atatürk Museum
interesting Adalar Müzesi or in a wooded valley has been Atatürk Köşkü, Termal. Tel (0226) 675
Museum of the Princes’ Islands patronized by ruling elites since 70 28. Open May–Oct: 9am–5pm Tue,
(open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun) has the Roman era. Termal is 12 km Wed, Fri–Sun; Nov–Apr: 9:30am–4pm.
The harbour of Burgazada, one of the relaxed and picturesque Princes’ Islands near Istanbul
7 İznik
87 km (54 miles) SE of Istanbul.
* 42,000. @ Yeni Mahalle, Yakup
Sok, (0224) 757 25 83. 4 to Yalova.
 to İznik. n Belediye Hizmet Binasi,
Kılıçaslan Cad 97, (0224) 757 10 10.
( Wed. _ İznik Fair (5–10 Oct);
Liberation Day (28 Nov).
A charming lakeside town,

İznik gives little clue now of its
former glory as, at one point, Grand domed portico fronting the Archaeological Museum
the capital of the Byzantine
Empire. Its most important Orhan Gazi (see p34) captured Caddesi and Kılıçaslan Caddesi.
legacy dates, however, from İznik and incorporated it into The current building was
the 16th century, when its kilns the Ottoman Empire. İznik still erected after an earthquake
produced the finest ceramics retains its original layout. in 1065. The remains of a fine
ever to be made in the Surrounded by the city walls, its mosaic floor, and also of a
Ottoman world. two main streets are in the form Deësis, a fresco that depicts
The town first reached of a cross, with minor streets Christ, the Virgin and John
prominence in AD 325, when running out from them on a the Baptist, are protected from
it was known as Nicaea. In grid plan. The walls still more or damage behind glass screens.
that year Constantine (see p22) less delineate the town’s Just off the eastern end of
chose it as the location of boundaries. They were built Kılıçaslan Caddesi, the
the first Ecumenical Council by the Greek 14th-century
of the Christian Church. At this Lysimachus, then Green Mosque
meeting, the Nicene Creed, a ruler of the town, (Yeşil Cami) is
statement of doctrine on the in 300 BC, but named after the
nature of Christ in relation to they were tiles covering its
God, was formulated. frequently minaret. Unfor-
The Seljuks (see p23) took repaired by both tunately, the
Nicaea in 1081 and renamed it the Byzantines originals have
İznik. It was wrested back from and later the been replaced by
them in 1097 by the First Ottomans. They Istanbul Gate from within modern copies of
Crusade on behalf of Emperor cover a total of the city walls an inferior quality.
Alexius I Comnenus. 3 km (2 miles) Opposite the
After the capture of in circumference and are punc- mosque, the Kitchen of Lady
Constantinople in tuated by huge gateways. The Nilüfer (Nilüfer Hatun İmareti),
1204 (see p28), the main one of these, Istanbul one of İznik’s loveliest buildings,
city was capital Gate (İstanbul Kapısı), is at the now houses the town’s
of the ‘Empire city’s northern limit. It is Archaeological Museum. This
of Nicaea’, decorated with a carved relief imaret was set up in 1388 by
a remaining of fighting horsemen and is Nilüfer Hatun, wife of Orhan
fragment of flanked by Byzantine towers. Gazi, and also served as a
the Byzantine The Haghia Sophia Mosque, hospice for wandering
Empire, for half a stands at the intersection of dervishes. Entered through a
century. In 1331, the main streets, Atatürk spacious five-domed portico,
the central domed area is
flanked by two further domed
rooms. The museum has
displays of Roman antiquities
and glass as well as some
examples of Seljuk and
Ottoman tiles.
U Haghia Sophia Mosque

Müze Cad. Tel (0224) 757 12 06.
Open daily (after prayer).
U Green Mosque
Müze Sok. Open daily (after prayer).
E Archaeological Museum
Müze Sok. Tel (0224) 757 10 27.
Green Mosque, İznik, named after the green tiles adorning its minaret Open by appointment. &
İznik Ceramics
Towards the end of the 15th century, the town of İznik began to produce large quantities of
ceramic bowls, jars and, later, tiles for the many palaces and mosques of Istanbul. Drawing
on local deposits of fine clay and inspired by imported Chinese ceramics, the work of the
craftsmen of İznik soon excelled, both technically and aesthetically. İznik pottery is made
from hard, white “fritware”, which is akin to porcelain. This style of pottery was invented in
Egypt in around the 12th century. It is covered by a bright, white slip (a creamy mixture of
clay and water) and a transparent glaze. Early İznik pottery is brilliant blue and white. Later,
other colours, especially a vivid red, were added. The potteries of İznik reached their height
in the late 16th and early 17th centuries but shortly after fell into decline.
Chinese porcelain, which was imported into Cobalt blue and

Turkey from the 14th century and of which there white was the striking
is a large collection in Topkapı Palace (see pp56–61), combination of colours
often inspired the designs used in early İznik
used for İznik pottery. pottery (produced
During the 16th between c.1470–1520).
century, İznik The designs used
potters produced were a mixture of
imitations Chinese and Arabesque,
of pieces as seen on this tiled
of Chinese panel on the wall of the
porcelain such Circumcision Chamber
as this copy of in Topkapı Palace. Floral
a Ming dish. patterns and animal
motifs were both popular
at this time.
Rock and wave
border pattern
Damascus ware was the name erroneously

given to ceramics produced at İznik during the
first half of the 16th century.
They had fantastic floral
designs in the new Armenian bole, an iron-rich red
colours of turquoise, colour, began to be used in
sage green and around 1550, as seen in this
manganese. When 16th-century tankard. New,
such tiles were realistic tulip and other floral
discovered at designs were also introduced, and
Damascus, the İznik ware enjoyed its heyday,
similar İznik pots which lasted until around 1630.
were wrongly
assumed to have
been made there.
Wall tiles were
not made in any
quantity until the
reign of Süleyman
the Magnificent
(1520–66).
Süleyman used
İznik tiles to
refurbish the Dome
of the Rock in
Jerusalem. Some
of the best examples are seen in Istanbul’s mosques,
notably in the Süleymaniye (see pp92–3), Rüstem
Paşa Mosque (pp90–91) and, here, in this example
Miniature depicting potters from the Blue Mosque (pp80–81).
8 Bursa
Bursa extends in a swathe along the
northern foothills of Mount Uludağ (see p171).
A settlement known as Prusa was reputedly
established here in the 3rd century BC by Prusias
I of Bithynia. However, it was the Romans who
first spotted the potential of Bursa’s mineral
springs: today there are an estimated 3,000
baths in the city. In 1326 Bursa became the
first capital of the Ottoman Empire, following
its capture by Orhan Gazi (see p27). View over the rooftops of the city of Bursa
Today Bursa is a provincial capital whose
status as one of Turkey’s foremost centres of commerce and the ornamentation, covering a
industry is evident in its broad boulevards and busy shops relatively large surface area,
and bazaars. Apart from the central market area (see is breathtaking in its depth of
colour and detail. The mihrab
pp166–7), the most frequented sightseeing area is Yeşil,
has especially intricate tile
on the eastern side of the Gök River, where the Green panels, including a represen-
Mosque and Green Tomb are the main attractions. tation of a mosque lamp
hanging from a gold chain
U Yıldırım Beyazıt Mosque and attractive pieces of between two candles.
Yıldırım Beyazıt Camii, Yıldırım Cad. calligraphic design (see p97). The sultan’s magnificent
Open daily. sarcophagus is covered in
This mosque is named after  Green Tomb exquisite tiles and adorned
Beyazıt I (see p34), whose nick- Yeşil Türbe, Yeşil Cad. Open daily. by a long Koranic inscription.
name was “Yıldırım”, meaning & donation. Nearby sarcophagi contain
“thunderbolt”. This referred The tomb of Mehmet I (see p32), the remains of his sons,
to the speed with which he which stands elevated above daughters and nursemaid.
reacted to his enemies. Built the mosque among tall cypress
in 1389, just after Beyazıt trees, is one of the city’s most U Green Mosque
became sultan, the mosque prominent landmarks. It was Yeşil Cami, Yeşil Cad. Open daily.
at first doubled as a lodge built between 1414 and 1421. Bursa’s most famous monument
for Sufi dervishes (see p106). The tomb is much closer to the was commissioned by Mehmet I
It has a lovely portico with Seljuk (see p23) style of archi- in 1412, but it remained unfin-
five domed bays. tecture than Classical Ottoman. ished at his death in 1421 and
Inside, the interior court (a Its exterior is covered in green still lacks a portico. Nevertheless,
covered “courtyard” in Bursa tiles, although these are mainly it is the finest Ottoman mosque
mosques, which prefigures the 19th-century replacements for built before the conquest of
open courtyards preferred by the original faïence. However, a Constantinople (see p28).
later Ottoman architects) and few older tiles survive around The main portal is tall and
prayer hall are divided by an the entrance portal. elegant, with an intricately
impressive arch. This rises from The interior, entered through carved canopy. It opens into
two mihrab-like niches. The a pair of superbly carved the entrance hall. Beyond this is
walls of the prayer hall itself wooden doors, is simply an interior court, with a carved
are adorned with several bold dazzling. The space is small and fountain at its centre. A flight
of three steps leads up from
here into the prayer hall. On
either side of the steps are niches
where worshippers once left
their shoes (see p41). Above
the entrance to the court is the
sultan’s loge, resplendent in
richly patterned tiles created
using the cuerda seca technique.
They are in beautiful greens,
blues and yellows, with threads
of gold which were added after
firing. The tiling of the prayer
hall was carried out by Ali İbn
İlyas Ali, who learnt his art in
The Green Tomb and Green Mosque, Bursa’s most distinctive monuments Samarkand. It was the first
BURSA 165
time that tiles were used once clad in tiles, but they have VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
extensively in an Ottoman since disappeared.
mosque and set a precedent Practical Information
for the later widespread use of E Museum of Turkish and 90 km (60 miles) S of Istanbul.
İznik tiles (see p163). The tiles Islamic Arts * 2,740,000.  Atatürk Cad;
covering the walls of the prayer Türk ve İslam Eserleri Müzesi, Yeşil Cad. Osman Gazi Cad. n Ulucami
hall, which is well lit by floor- Tel (0224) 327 76 79. Open 10am– Parkı, Orhangazi Altgeçidi, No. 1
level windows, are simple, green 5pm Tue–Sun. & (0224) 220 18 48. _ Textiles Fair
(mid-Apr); Bursa Festival
and hexagonal. Against this This museum is housed in a
(12 Jun–12 Jul).
plain backdrop, the effect of the fine Ottoman building, the
mihrab is especially glorious. former medrese (see p40) of the Transport
Predominantly turquoise, deep Green Mosque. A colonnade k 20 km (12 miles) NW.
blue and white, with touches surrounds its courtyard on three @ Kıbrıs Şehitler Cad, (0224)
of gold, the mihrab’s tiles depict sides and the cells leading off 261 54 00. g to Yalova.
flowers, leaves, arabesques from it, formerly used by the
and geometric patterns. The students, are now exhibition
mosque’s exterior was also galleries. At the far end of the courtyard is the large, domed
hall which was originally the
main classroom.
Exhibits dating from the
12th–20th centuries include
Seljuk and Ottoman ceramics,
elaborately decorated Korans
and costumes ranging from
linen dervish robes to ornate
wedding gowns. A display on
Turkish baths (see p69) features
embroidered towels and exotic
high-heeled silver bath clogs.
There is also a recreated setting
of a traditional circumcision
room, complete with a four-
Façade of the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts poster bed.
Bursa City Centre

Key
1 Yıldırım Beyazıt Mosque 6 Osman Gazi Tomb
Street-by-Street area
2 Green Tomb 7 Alaeddin Mosque see pp166–7
3 Green Mosque 8 Muradiye Mosque
4 Museum of Turkish and 9 Hüsnü Züber House
Islamic Arts 0 Archaeological Museum
5 Tophane Citadel
A N K A RA CAD
ŞE KIBR
H I TLE IS
R CAD 0 metres 750
STA DY UM
Archeological 0 yards 750

Museum Kültür
CA D
HA ÇE Parki
M
ZA KIR
BE GE
Y CA
CA D
D
Airport
ÇA KM AK
20 km (12 miles)
FE VZ I
Muradiye A LT
CA D
Mosque IPA
Hüsnü Züber R MA ANKARA
SAK K ISTANBUL
ARY
House A CA CAD
D
MURADİYE H A ŞI M
KA
IŞ C A N
PL
CAD
AR
STAL YUR D U AN CAD
HAŞIM IŞC
IC
Osman Yıldırım
CA HA
A
CA D
CAD
D Gazi Tomb Beyazıt

DE
ORTAPAZ Tophane Mosque

M
AR CAD CUM HUR IYE

NÜ
O
IR
Citadel T CAD
RH
KA
TOPHANE
İNÖ
AN
PI
UZU N ÇAR ŞI
Alaeddin CAD
EL
CA
INCIR L I C A
IC
Mosque Museum of D
AD
Çakir Aia ATAT Ü R K Turkish and

CAD
A L AC Hamami Islamic Art
MAKSE
AH
AD
IR
K
Green
A
N
BEY C
M Mosque
A
AZ L C AD
CA
GA YESI
H
D
M CA
IN E
CA
P I N A RBA r D Green Tomb
e
ŞI C e
kD
D İK
D
Gö
C AK Ç İ L
YEŞİL
AD
İPE

Bursa: The Market Area

Bursa’s central market area is a warren of streets and ancient
Ottoman courtyards (hans). The area is still central to Bursa’s
commercial activity and is a good place to experience the life
of the city. Here too you can buy the local fabrics for which the
town is famous, particularly handmade lace, towelling and silk.
The silkworm was introduced to the Byzantine Empire in the
6th century and there is still a
brisk trade in silk cocoons carried
out in Koza Han all year round.
Among the many other items on . Covered Bazaar
The great bazaar, built by
sale today are the lovely hand- Mehmet I in the 15th century,
painted, camel-skin Karagöz consists of a long hall with domed
puppets (see p170). bays, adjoined by a high, vaulted
hall. The Bedesten is home to
jewellers’ shops.
. The Great Mosque
A three-tiered
ablutions fountain
stands beneath the
central dome of
this monumental
mosque, which
was erected
in 1396–9.
Şengül
Hamamı
Turkish
baths
C AD
KMAK
ZI Ç A
FEV
Bey Han (also called Emir Han)

was built as part of the Orhan Gazi
Mosque complex, to provide revenue
Cafés KO
for the mosque’s upkeep. ZA
PA
RK
The Bey Hamamı I
(1339) is the oldest AT
AT
Turkish baths building ÜR
K
in the world. It now CA
D
houses workshops.
Koza Park
The gardens in front of Koza Han, with their
fountains, benches and shaded café tables,
are a popular meeting place for locals and
visitors throughout the day.
BURSA 167
. Koza Han
This is the most attractive
and fascinating building
in the market area. Since
it was built in 1491 by
Beyazıt II, it has been
central to the silk trade.
Geyve Han is Fidan Han dates from

also known as around 1470, when it was
İvaz Paşa Han. built by a grand vizier of
Mehmet the Conqueror. Flower Market
The numerous bunches
of flowers for sale in the
streets around the town hall
İçkoza make a picturesque sight in
the midst of Bursa’s bustling
Han
market area.
K
SO
A
RS
BO
K
SO
0 metres 40
0 yards 40
EK
ML
UZ
UN
ÇÖ
ÇA
RȘ
I C
AD The Belediye, Bursa’s town
hall, is a Swiss chalet-style,
half-timbered building that
forms a surprising landmark
in the centre of the town.
CAD
YE
DI
LE
BE
Orhan Gazi Mosque

Built in 1339, just 13 years after
Key the Ottoman conquest of Bursa,
Suggested route
this mosque is the oldest of the
city’s imperial mosques.
Bursa: Tophane and Muradiye brought his father’s body to

be buried in the baptistry of
Tophane, the most ancient part of Bursa, is distinguished a converted church and he
by its clock tower which stands on top of a hill. This area himself was later buried in the
was formerly the site of the citadel and is bounded by what nave. The tombs that can be
remains of the original Byzantine walls. It is also known seen today date from 1868.
They were rebuilt after the
as Hisar, which means “fortress” in Turkish. If you continue destruction of the church and
westwards for 2 km (1mile), crossing the Cilimboz River, you the original tombs in an
come to the historic district of Muradiye. The 15th-century earthquake in 1855. Fragments
Muradiye Mosque, from which this suburb takes its name, of the church’s mosaic floor
is one of the most impressive royal mosque and tomb survive inside the tomb
of Orhan Gazi.
complexes in the city.
U Alaeddin Mosque
Exploring Tophane city. However, Orhan began Alaeddin Camii
Tophane’s northern limit is to encourage Bursa’s Alaeddin Mahallesi.
marked by the best preserved expansion and Open prayer times
section of the citadel walls, built developed the only. ^
on to an outcrop of rock. At present-day Further explor-
the top is a pleasant park filled commercial ation in the
with cafés, which also contains heart of the city Tophane area
the imposing clock tower and further to reveals the
the tombs of the founders of the the east. Alaeddin
Ottoman dynasty. From here you South of Mosque, the
can look down on the lower part Hastalaryurdu oldest in
of Tophane, where archetypal Caddesi is an Tomb of Osman Gazi, the first great Bursa, built
Ottoman houses still line many area notable for Ottoman leader within 10 years
of the twisting streets. Pınarbaşı its old Ottoman of the city’s
Kapısı, at Tophane’s southern houses (see p63). Most of these conquest. It is in the form of a
point, is the gate through which have over-hanging upper simple domed square, fronted
Orhan Gazi entered Bursa in storeys. They consist of a timber by a portico of four Byzantine
1326 (see p27). frame filled in with adobe and columns with capitals. The
plastered over, then painted in mosque was commissioned by
P Tophane Citadel bright colours. Kaleiçi Sokağı, Alaeddin Bey, brother of and
Hisar Osman Gazi Cad. Open daily. 7 which can be reached down vizier (see p41) to Orhan Gazi.
The citadel walls can be Karadut Sokağı from Hasta-
viewed from a set of steps laryurdu Caddesi, is one of the Exploring Muradiye
which lead uphill from the best streets of such houses. Muradiye is a leafy, largely
intersection of Cemal Nadir residential district. Close to
Caddesi and Atatürk Caddesi.  Tombs of Osman and the Muradiye Mosque are the
These steps end at the tea Orhan Gazi Hüsnü Züber House and the
gardens above. The citadel fell Osman & Orhan Gazi Türbeleri. Ulu Ottoman House, two fine
into Turkish hands when Orhan Cami Cad. Open daily. & donation. examples of traditional Turkish
Gazi’s troops broke through its Osman Gazi began the homes. To the north is a park,
walls. Later, he built a wooden process of Ottoman expansion among the attractions of which
palace inside the citadel and in the 13th century (see p27) are a boating lake and the
had the old Byzantine ramparts and attempted to capture Archaeological Museum.
refortified. The walls had until Bursa. But it was his son,
this era delimited the entire Orhan, who took the city just U Muradiye Mosque
circumference of the ancient before his father died. Orhan Muradiye Külliyesi Murat II Cad.
Open daily. & donation.
This mosque complex was
built by Murat II, father of
Mehmet the Conqueror (see
p28), in the early 15th century.
The mosque itself is preceded
by a graceful domed portico.
Its wooden door is finely carved
and the interior decorated
with early İznik tiles (see p163).
The medrese, beside the
mosque, now serves as
Popular café in the park above the ancient citadel walls in Tophane a dispensary.
BURSA 169
on three sides, there is a

loggia. Originally this would
have been open, but it is
now glazed. Meanwhile, inside
the house, the decorative
wooden ceilings (some with
hand-painted borders) are
particularly attractive.
Hüsnü Züber’s private
collection of interesting
carved wooden objects is now
displayed here. These include
spoons, musical instruments
Octagonal tomb of Mustafa in the grounds of Muradiye Mosque and even farming utensils. They
are all decorated with Anatolian
It is a perfectly square building, Magnificent, who was disposed motifs by a unique technique of
with cells surrounding a central of to clear the way for his engraving by burning known
garden courtyard. Its dershane, younger brother, Selim II, “the as pyrogravure.
or main classroom, is richly tiled Sot” (see p78). According to The 18th-century Ottoman
and adorned with an ornate an inscription, Selim had the House (Osmanlı Evi) stands
brickwork façade. octagonal mausoleum built on the square in front of the
The mosque garden, with its for his brother. The interior is Muradiye Mosque. The upper
cypresses, well-tended flower decorated with some particularly storey of this fine house is
beds and fountains, is one of beautiful İznik tile panels adorned with elaborately
Bursa’s most tranquil retreats. depicting carnations, tulips and patterned brickwork. Shutters
Murat II was the last Ottoman hyacinths. The tiles date from and grilles hide the windows.
sultan to be buried in Bursa the best İznik period, the late
and his mausoleum, standing in 16th century.
the garden beside the mosque
and medrese, was completed in P Hüsnü Züber House
1437. His earth-filled sarcophagus Hüsnü Züber Evi, Yaşayan Müze
lies beneath an opening in the Uzunyol Sok 3, Muradiye. Tel (0224)
roof. The eaves above the tomb’s 221 35 42. Open 10am–midday,
16th-century porch still retain 1–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 Ottoman
their original painted decoration. House: Tel (0224) 285 48 13.
There are 11 other tombs in the Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
garden, several of which were Among the numerous
built for murdered princes. well-preserved houses in the
One such is the tomb of Muradiye district is the Hüsnü
Mustafa, a son of Süleyman the Züber House. This 150-year-
old mansion has
been opened as Hüsnü Züber House, dating from the
a museum by its mid-19th century
present owner, the
artist Hüsnü Züber. E Archaeological Museum
It was originally a Arkeoloji Müzesi, Kültür Parkı.
guest house for Tel (0224) 234 49 18.
visiting dignitaries, Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
later becoming the Finds dating from the
Russian Consulate third millennium BC up to the
and, most recently, Ottoman conquest of Bursa are
a private residence. collected in this museum. In the
The house is an first hall there are clasps, vessels
interesting example and an inscription from the
of vernacular archi- Phrygian period. Other exhibits
tecture. The upper include Roman and Hellenistic
storey projects over jewellery and ceramics, a
the street in the number of Roman statues of
traditional manner Cybele, goddess of nature, and
of Ottoman houses a Roman bronze of the god
(see p63). Overlooking Apollo with strange, lifelike
the interior courtyard, eyes. There are also displays
which has rooms of Byzantine religious objects
Muradiye Mosque, constructed by Murat II arranged around it and coins.
Bursa: Çekirge section (see p69). You enter the

baths through the Kervansaray
With a name which translates literally as “Realm of the Termal Hotel. Spring water,
Crickets”, Çekirge still earns Bursa the tag of yeşil, or “green”, said to cure skin diseases and
by which it is known in Turkey. This leafy western spa suburb rheumatism, bubbles into the
central pool of both the men’s
of the city has attracted visitors to its mineral springs since and women’s sections at 45 °C
Roman times. In the 6th century the Emperor Justinian (see (113 °F). The women’s baths are
p22) built a bathhouse here and his wife Theodora later not as old or grand, but are still
arrived with a retinue of 4,000. Çekirge is also the location of the most attractive women-
most of the city’s finest hotels and the only ones in Bursa.
area’s hillside setting affords some
U Murat I Hüdavendigar
spectacular views. Mosque
Murat I Hüdavendigar Camii
I. Murat Cad, Çekirge. Open daily.
Bursa’s most unusual mosque
was built for Murat I, self-
styled Hüdavendigar, meaning
“Creator of the Universe”, in
1385. It is unlike any other
mosque in the Ottoman world:
its prayer hall is on the ground
Çekirge’s Old Spa, dating back to the 14th-century reign of Murat I floor, with the medrese built
around a second storey.
 New Spa  Old Spa The façade looks more like that
Yeni Kaplıca Mudanya Yolu 6. Eski Kaplıca Hotel Kervansaray, of a palace than a mosque, with
Tel (0224) 236 69 68. Çekirge Meydanı, Kervansaray. a five-arched portico surmounted
Open 7am–11pm daily. Tel (0224) 233 93 00. by a colonnade. This colonnade
Despite their name, the New Open 7am–10:30pm daily. in turn has five sets of double-
Spa baths have a substantial The Old Spa baths were arched windows divided by
pedigree. They were rebuilt in established by Murat I in the Byzantine columns. Inside, the
1552 by Rüstem Paşa, grand late 14th century and renovated domed court and prayer hall rise
vizier (see p31) to Süleyman in 1512, during the reign of through both storeys. The upper
the Magnificent (see p28). The Beyazıt II. Remnants of an earlier storey colonnade leads to the
sultan is said to have ordered building, said to date from the cells of the medrese.
their rebuilding in gratitude reign of Emperor Justinian (see On this level, passageways
after his recovery from gout p22), are also visible. These lead around both sides of the
when bathing in the Byzantine include some Byzantine columns mosque to a mysterious room,
baths that stood on this site. and capitals in the hararet located over the mihrab, whose
The central pool is (steam room) of the men’s original purpose is unknown.
surrounded with bays adorned
with beautiful but damaged
İznik tiles (see p163). They are Karagöz Shadow Puppets
not open to women. Within the Suspended above Çekirge Caddesi is an imposing monument
same complex, however, there to the town’s two famous scapegoats, Karagöz and Hacıvat.
are two other baths: the modern According to legend, these local clowns were executed in the 14th
Kaynarca baths which is for century for distracting their fellow workers while building the Orhan
women and the Karamustafa Gazi Mosque (see p167). It is said that Sultan Orhan (see p34) created
baths for couples. a shadow play about them in remorse.
In fact, shadow puppet theatre arrived
P Çelik Palas Hotel in Turkey later and is thought to
Çelik Palas Otel Çekirge Cad 79.
have originated in Southeast
Tel (0224) 233 38 00.
Asia. Selim I is reported to have
∑ celikpalas.com brought it back to Istanbul after
his Egyptian campaign in
This five-star hotel stands on 1517. The camel-skin puppets
one of Bursa’s main thorough- are 35–40 cm (14–16 in) high,
fares. Built in 1933, it is the brightly dyed and oiled to aid
city’s oldest, most prestigious translucency. They are still made
spa hotel. Atatürk (see pp32–3) today and can be purchased in an
frequented its baths. Open to antique shop in the Bedesten run by
both sexes, their centrepiece is Cadı, a witch in the Karagöz Şinasi Çelikkol, who also occasionally
an attractive circular pool in a puppet shows puts on shows.
domed marble room.
Binoculars are provided at the

desk and visitors make their way
to an observation tower.
Two main groups of birds visit
the lake: those that come here
to breed (March–July), and those
which pass by during migration,
either heading south (November)
or north (April–May). Among
the numerous different birds
that breed around the lake are
the endangered Dalmatian
pelican, the great crested grebe,
cormorants, herons, bitterns and
spoonbills. The migratory birds,
which can be seen in spring
Uludağ National Park, a popular ski resort in winter and autumn, include storks,
cranes, pelicans and birds of
9 Uludağ on the lower slopes of Uludağ, prey such as sparrowhawks
National Park is the most perfectly preserved and spotted eagles.
Uludağ Milli Parkı of the five surviving villages and
is now registered as a national
100 km (60 miles) S of Istanbul. monument. It is also a UNESCO
Tel (0224) 283 21 97.  Teleferik to
World Heritage Site. Among its
Sarıalan, then dolmuş. Open daily.
houses are many 13th-century
& only for vehicles.
semi-timbered buildings. The
One of a number of Turkish village can be reached by
mountains to claim the title minibus from Bursa.
of Mount Olympus, Uludağ
was believed by the Bithynians
0 Bird Paradise
(of northwest Asia Minor) to be
the home of the gods. In the National Park
Byzantine era, it was home to Kuşcenneti Milli Parkı
several monastic orders. After 115 km (70 miles) SW of Istanbul.
the Ottoman conquest of Bursa, Tel (0266) 735 54 22.  from
Muslim dervishes (see p106) Bandırma. Open 8am–8pm daily. 7
moved into their abandoned Sandy beach on Avşa, the most popular of
monasteries. Nowadays, how- An estimated 255 species of birds the Marmara Islands
ever, no traces of Uludağ’s former visit Bird Paradise National Park at
religious communities remain. the edge of Kuş Gölü, the lake q Marmara Islands
A visit to Uludağ National Park formerly known as Manyas Gölü. Marmara Adaları
is especially enjoyable in spring Located on the great migratory
120 km (75 miles) SW of Istanbul.
or summer, when its alpine paths between Europe and Asia, 4 from Yenikapı. n Neyire Sıtkı Cad
heights are relatively cool and it the park is a happy combination 31/3, Erdek, (0266) 835 11 69.
becomes a popular picnic area. of plant cover and reed beds, and
The park includes 109.26 sq km it includes a lake, which supports This beautiful archipelago
(258.6 sq miles) of woodland. at least 20 species of fish. in the Sea of Marmara is a
As you ascend, the deciduous At the entrance to the park, popular destination with Turkish
beech, oak and hazel gradually there is a small museum with holiday-makers, particularly
give way to juniper and aspen, displays about various birds. with residents of Istanbul.
and finally to dwarf junipers. In The loveliest of the islands is
spring, hyacinths and crocuses Avşa, whose sandy beaches and
blanket the wooded slopes. regular summer ferry service
In winter, Uludağ is make it popular with Turks and,
transformed into Turkey’s increasingly, foreign tourists.
most fashionable ski resort. The ferry arrives at Türkeli on
The industry centres on the the west coast. Transport to the
Oteller region, which has most popular beach, at Mavi
good alpine-style hotels. Koy, is by a tractor-pulled train.
Osman Gazi (see p27) is Marmara, the largest
supposed to have founded island, has one beach, north
seven villages for his seven of Marmara village at Çınarlı.
sons and their brides in the Spoonbill wading in the lake at It is famous for producing the
Bursa region. Cumalıkızık, Bird Paradise National Park prized Proconnesian marble.
w The Dardanelles Locator Map

Çanakkale Boğazı
200 km (125 miles) SW of Istanbul. 1 Suvla Bay
g Çanakkale–Eceabat car ferry. 2 Chunuk Bair
@ Çanakkale. n Çanakkale İskele 3 Anzac Cove
Meydanı 27, (0286) 217 11 87. 4 Kabatepe Museum and
Simulation Centre
Named after Dardanus, an 5 National Park Information
ancient king of Çanakkale, the Centre
Dardanelles are the straits that
6 Çanakkale
link the Aegean Sea to the Sea
7 Cape Helles
of Marmara, and which separate
European Turkey from Asia.
Some 40 km (25 miles) long and Key
narrowing to little more than
a kilometre (half a mile) wide, Area of war memorials
they are steeped in legend Road
and have been of strategic Ferry route
importance for thousands of
years. In modern times they are
probably best known as the watch that saved the life of killed. When the Allied forces
setting for a disastrous Allied Atatürk (see pp32–3) when failed to make headway, more
campaign during World War I. he was hit by shrapnel. The British troops landed at Suvla Bay
The classical name for this Archaeological Museum, south on 6 August. This new offensive
channel of water was the of the town centre, has exhibits might have been successful, but
Hellespont. According to from ancient Troy. Allied intelligence continually
legend, the Greek goddess Helle To the west is the beautiful underestimated the Turks
fell into the straits from the Gallipoli (Gelibolu) Peninsula. and the difficult
back of a golden winged ram. Part of this land is a ground. The
In another tale, the lovelorn national park, with an terrible
Leander swam nightly across information centre slaughter of
the Hellespont to meet his near Eceabat. The deadlocked
lover, Hero, until one night he peninsula, which trench warfare
drowned. The English Romantic is now quite continued until
poet Byron swam across the tranquil, the Allies were
straits in 1810, in emulation was the finally evacuated
of Leander, and remarked scene of horrific battles on 19 December.
on the hazardous nature of that took place in 1915. More than 500,000
the currents. The objectives of the Allied and Turkish troops
Çanakkale, the old town at Allied forces’ invasion lost their lives and the
the mouth of the Dardanelles, of Gallipoli were to whole peninsula is
has two museums. The Military capture Istanbul, scattered with
and Naval Museum is a short force Turkey into battlefield sites and
walk from the ferry docks. Its submission and Mehmetcik Memorial near war memorials.
collection includes a pocket open a strategic Anzac Cove The best place to
supply route to begin a tour of the
Russia. The campaign began on war memorials and cemeteries
25 April 1915 with the landings is at the Kabatepe Museum
of British and French troops at and Simulation Centre, which
Cape Helles, and the Anzacs opened in 2013, replacing the
(Australian and New Zealand Kabatepe Visitors’ Centre. It has
forces) at what they thought 11 rooms with exhibits of
was the beach at Kabatepe. uniforms, weapons and other
But currents had swept the memorabilia, as well as realistic
Anzac force about 1.5 km (1 video simulations of the Gallipoli
mile) to the north, to a place campaign. North of here,
now known as Anzac Cove, near Anzac Cove, are several
near Arı Burnu. Here the soldiers cemeteries and monuments.
were faced with unknown and Chunuk Bair, now a peaceful
tough terrain, including a cliff. pine grove above the beaches,
The Turks managed to retain has a memorial to the New
the high ground of Chunuk Bair. Zealanders who died and some
The Çanakkale Şehitleri Memorial, The battle here lasted three days, reconstructed Turkish trenches.
honouring the Turkish dead during which 28,000 men were The British Memorial is at Cape
Helles, on the peninsula’s tip.

Further east along the coast
stand both the French Memorial
and the vast Çanakkale Şehitleri
Memorial to the Turks who died
defending Gallipoli.
E Military Museum
Çimenlik Kalesi, Çanakkale. Tel (0286)
213 17 30. Open 9am–noon, 1:30–
5:30pm Tue, Wed & Fri–Sun. &
E Archaeological Museum
Atatürk Cad, Çanakkale.
Tel (0286) 217 67 40. Open 8am–
5pm. Closed Mon. &
n National Park
Information Centre
Near Eceabat. Tel (0286) 814 11 28.
Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri.
Park: Open daily. &
n Kabatepe Museum and

Simulation Centre
Near Kabatepe. Tel (0286) 814 12 97. Model of the legendary wooden horse at Troy
Open 9am–6pm daily. &
Achilles, Hector and the other resembling the layout of
heroes in the tale. But a handful Homer’s Troy. Over the last
e Troy of 19th-century archaeologists hundred years most historians
Truva were convinced that Homer have come to accept that this
had based his story on the city must at least have inspired
350 km (220 miles) SW of Istanbul. events that happened to a real Homer, and was possibly even
@ from Çanakkale. n Çanakkale
city and that traces of it could called Troy and besieged at the
İskele Meydanı 27, (0286) 217 11 87.
be found by searching near time specified in the story.
Open 8am–7pm daily (Nov–Apr:
the Dardanelles. In 1865 British The settlement mound in fact
until 5pm). &
Consul Frank Calvert began has nine distinct levels (labelled
In Homer’s epic poem, the Iliad, investigating some ruins in Troy I–IX) representing 3,000
the city of Troy is besieged by Hisarlık. This interested the years of habitation. Although
the Greeks for ten years. For German archaeologist Heinrich the remains are sparse
centuries Troy was assumed Schliemann who soon found compared to major sites such as
by many to be as mythical as evidence of an ancient city Ephesus, what is left of Troy has
been superbly presented for
visitors. There are explanatory
Schliemann’s Search for Ancient Troy boards which allow you to self-
Heinrich Schliemann used a fortune amassed in business to guide, describing major features
realize his life-long dream of discovering ancient Troy. He began and locating everything from
excavating some likely sites in the Athena’s temple to the ramp
1860s and started on the ruins where cavalier Schliemann
at Hisarlık in 1870. An amateur, supposedly found the Treasure
Schliemann drove a great trench of Priam.
through the mound, destroying The city Homer refers to
some walls in his haste. He soon is probably Troy VI (1800–
claimed to have found Troy,
1250 BC), while the Greek and
though he knew not all his
Roman levels, when the city
findings pointed to this. His
greatest find – a hoard of gold was known as Ilion, are Troy VIII
and silver jewellery that he (700–300 BC) and Troy IX (300
smuggled to Germany, calling BC–AD 1) respectively.
it “Priam’s Treasure” (see p67) – At the entrance is a kitsch
predates Homer’s Troy by wooden horse made in the
1,000 years. Some of the treasure 1970s, which can be entered by
disappeared after World War II visitors, much like the Trojan
Schliemann’s wife wearing some of the only to reappear spectacularly horse, which was entered by
excavated treasure in Moscow in August 1994. the Greeks. There is also a small
visitors’ centre on site.
THREE GUIDED WALKS

With its frenetic atmosphere, traditional cafés region of the city. For a little more elegance,
at almost every corner and historic sights take a stroll along İstiklâl Caddesi in order to
from centuries of different rulers, Istanbul confirm why this area of Istanbul has the
is a wonderful city for walkers. reputation for celebrating its European
On the following five pages are routes rather than its Asian side, taking in the
for three walks that take you through three Istanbul Modern (see p109), the finest venue
different areas of Istanbul. They will take in the city for contemporary art, as you do
you past many of the most interesting sights. so. All the walks are intended to be done at
The areas covered range from the old Greek a leisurely pace, and there are plenty of
and Jewish neighbourhoods of Balat and suggestions for refreshment stops along
Fener, where historic synagogues can still each route. In addition to these walks, each
be seen amid traditional tripe shops, to the of the four areas of Istanbul described in the
wonderful aromas of coffee, spices and Area by Area section of this book has a walk
fresh fish permeating the air in the Galata on its Street-by-Street map.
CHOOSING A WALK
The Three Walks

This map shows the
location of the three
guided walks in relation
to the main sightseeing
areas of Istanbul.
Spices from the Spice Bazaar in Eminönü (see p90)
The Beyoğlu district seen from the

Golden Horn (see pp102–9)
Go
ld
e Beyoğlu
n
s
ru
ho
Ho
sp
rn
Bo
Taksim to the
Istanbul Modern
Balat and (pp176–7)
Fener (p175) Seraglio
The Bazaar Point
Quarter
Sultanahmet
0 kilometres 1
0 miles 1
Beyazıt to Galata
Key
(pp178–9)
Walk route
THREE GUIDED WALKS 175
A 75-Minute Walk in Balat, Fener and Ayvansaray

The Balat and Fener neighbourhoods epitomize the cultural Tips for Walkers
diversity and tolerance that was the hallmark of the Ottomans.
Starting point: Ahrida
Fener was predominantly a Greek area, while Balat was Jewish,
Synagogue.
and this walk guides you around the ancient churches, syna- Length: 1.5 km (1 mile).
gogues, Turkish baths and mosques in the atmospheric back- Getting there: From Eminönü
streets. Although the area may have seen better days, a rejuven- bus terminus, take No. 99 or
any bus displaying Eyüp or
ation scheme is putting life back into this picturesque locality.
Ayvansaray. Ask the driver to let
you off at Balat. There are also
Ayvansaray ferry points at Fener and Balat.
Pier
Stopping-off points: Hotel
Daphnis e is a good spot to
MA
DE
stop for a meal.

HK
Mİ
EM
RH
EA
ĞI
SOKA
İS
LT
down the road and you will

IC
AR
be able to see the cross of

DA
ÜLCÜ
w Fener Greek Boys Aya Yorgi Metokhi Church 0

LEPLEB
CA
4
High School (no public access) above
DD
İ CİLE
PÜSK
K AM I Ş SOK
SOK
its high wall.

ES
Bİ A
R SOK
TE I İ S
At the end of the road turn

İ
EK AC
Go
5
OK
M H
left and on the right is the

2
ES
lde
3 Greek Orthodox Patriarchate q

RİY
HIZ
K
DÜ
G
SO
IR
EV
ÇA
(see p113), seat of the Greek
n
VO VU
1
AÇ
6
ŞK
İL
Dİ
A
OP
TL
church since 1601. Look at

İ
SO NA RU
LA
SÜ
K SO
CA K
Hor
T
DD the red-brick building on the

ĞI CI
RI
t
FA
KA RA
T
EF
ES
İ
ramparts above. This is the
V
ĞI
SO B U
HA EN
A
Dİ
KA
Cİ
N
PU
Çİ SO
7
SO
TA
Fener Greek Boys High School

SO
İSA LİN K
Gİ
R
A
AK
R
AN
BO SO
BD
ST KA
w, established in Byzantine
RÇ
8
AY
AN
Y
ĞI
İS
Ü
BU
I S
IL
LE
O
9
K
K
times. Turn left onto Abdülezel
D
EL
IR
ZE
E SOK
I ÇE ŞM
IM
AKÇ
ES
Paşa Caddesi e and the stone

L
ALP
r
VO
K IM
C
AH
A
Key
D
İBR I
D
building on your right is the

İN
Cİ AĞ
D
PA
H A OK
A
A
SO K
Sİ
S
SO K
ŞA
C
Women’s Library r, the city’s

D
Walk route
A
D
DESİ
D
Ç İM EN
ES
D
0
Cİ S EL İM
CA
sole female-only information

ES
D
İ
İ
CAD
This walk starts in the centre. Further up is the

Z AN
MİT
heart of Balat at the Ahrida Church of St Stephen of

SANCAKLAR SOK
e
MEK
BA S O
KA
T E V T E B İ S OE R
KİRE
K KA
Synagogue 1 (see p112), the Bulgars t (see p112).

İ
Kİİ C A F
D ĞI
q
ED
USTURUMCA
İ
which was founded before From here, walk to the

E
SOKAĞI
İ S OK A
the Ottoman conquest in w Golden Horn water-

K
1453. It has been restored many front, past the old Galata
ÇE Ş M E S
times, most recently in 1992. The Bridge, to the Ayvansaray

19th-century Yanbol synagogue pier for a ferry back to the
CAMCI
2, however, is now boarded up city centre.

but its position indicates its
former significance. The Church
0 metres 250
of Holy Angels 3 dates from
Byzantine times. Below it flows 0 yards 250
a sacred spring and every
14 September supplicants of Turn right and then left on to
all religions gather here to pray Vodina Caddesi and on your
for cures from their ailments. right is Tahtalı Minare Hamam
Walk to Leblebiciler Sokak and 7, one of the oldest Turkish
nearby is Afilli Cezve 4, a small baths in the city, dating from
café popular for its Turkish coffee. the 1500s. Note the boiler room
Further along is Agora 5, chimney on the roof. A short
one of Istanbul’s nicest taverns distance further on your right is
(meyhane). Turn left on Hızır Çavuş Tahtalı Minare Mosque 8, built
Köprü Sokak and continue down by Fatih Sultan Mehmet II in
this road until you reach Köfteci 1458. Next door is the Tomb of
Arnavut 6. This traditional meat- Hazreti Hüseyin Sadık 9, who
ball restaurant has been serving was buried as a gazi (warrior of The narrow, winding backstreets of the
its loyal customers since 1947. the faith) in the 1450s. Continue Balat district
A 90-Minute Walk from Taksim Square to

the Istanbul Modern
It was in the Pera district, where the embassies and palatial
residences mirrored the lifestyle of Topkapı Palace, on the
opposite side of the Golden Horn, that Constantinople’s
cosmopolitan population lived and worked in the 19th
century. Once known as the “Paris of the East”, life centred
on the Grand Rue de Pera, today’s İstiklâl Caddesi. Even today
the Avrupa Pasajı and Balık Pazar markets seem wistfully
unchanged, especially when contrasted with the remarkable 4 A Çiçek Pasajı restaurant
Pera Museum and the sophisticated Istanbul Modern.

Londres, until you reach the
exquisite Pera Museum 8
Pasajı 4, built by Italian (once the Bristol Hotel), where
architect Michel Capello in the philanthropic Suna and İnan
1856, and now filled with Kiraç Foundation exhibits
restaurants. At Stop Restaurant, its art collection and
İ
veer left then right on Sahne Turkish tiles. DES
CAD
SA
Sokak, which forms the AŞI
K IZ
LAB
backbone of the Fish Market, TA R
AĞ
K
SO
AC
AM
YR
or Balık Pazar 5. BA
BA
IC
TOPÇE KENLER Y ÜK
AD
LIK
HA
SOKAĞI BÜ
Return along Sahne İL
CA
Y EŞ
OK
SO
MA
M
NS 5
K
N E VİZA DE
SO
Sokak and stroll down SLA
LB
SOK
K
AR
the arcaded Hall of
AŞ
4
CADDESİ
IC
Mirrors, or Avrupa Pasajı 7 6

AD
6 on the right. The Neo-
ÇEŞMESİ SOK
BAŞAĞA
İ
Renaissance interior, D
ES
9
with marble floors and A
D
0
ESİ
C
AM
DD
classical statues, was

YE
MEŞRUTİYET
YD
CA
Nİ
6 Avrupa Pasajı bazaar once lit by gas q

SA
KA
AL
lamps, and mirrors SOKLLAVİ

ĞI
ÇA
AĞ
İKL
I ESK
A
İ Çİ
Along İstiklâl Caddesi amplified the light.
K
K Ç İ SOK
RŞ
ÇE
FÍK
O
E S
İST
RİY
H AY
I
Begin the walk in Taksim Turn right and

RE
NÜ
Rİ ĞI w
CA
SOKA
Square 1 at the Independence then left onto 8
Z İ YA
ŞI
D BA
DD
CAAN
Monument. Completed by Meşrutiyet

D
ST
CA
ESİ
BO
Pietro Canonica in 1928, it Caddesi and follow

A
BOSTAN SOK
M
U
ÇUKUR
depicts Atatürk with his political the road around to the

RC
KU
contemporaries. Before following left, keeping the British e

ÇU
the vintage tram line down Consulate General 7 on your TOMTOM

K A P TA
N SOK A ĞI
KÜL HAN S
O
BO
İstiklâl Caddesi, have a look at right. Follow this street down,

ĞA
ER
the octagonal stone tower, past TRT (Turkish Radio and

RL
ZKE
Dİ
known as the Maksem 2, on the Television) and the celebrated

KA
SEN
corner of Taksim Caddesi. Dating but now faded Grand Hotel de

KA RA BA
CA
from 1832, it was once used E A LT

ÖRM K
I
DD
SO
as a reservoir – you can still see r
Ş DE RE
ESİ
carved bird houses and remains

K U LU S OK
Sİ
of a fountain. It now houses an

K
SO K
U
art gallery. On your right is the

M
I
B
PI
AC
A
MB K
KA
R
French Cultural Centre, while LU SO

A
TU TKI
C
SI
I
on the left, further down at No.

Y
O
K
U
D
83 is a traditional sweet shop, CA
Ş
U
TI
D
AL
CA
Hacı Bekir, dating from 1777. ER

Y
Saray Muhallebicisi 3 is perfect EM

BE
K
İ
AT
for a coffee and one of its

EC
N
renowned pastries.
Market Shopping
Pass Yeşilcam Sokak, once the
home of Turkish cinema, and
at Şarabi Wine House, turn into
the former flower market, Çiçek y Dome of the Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque
Historic Buildings Tips for Walkers

Walk through the Odakule
Arkade and turn left on to Starting point: Taksim Square.
İstiklâl Caddesi. On the east Length: 2.5 km (1.5 miles).
side of a tiny square, Galatasaray Getting there: From
Meydanı, is the prominent Sultanahmet, take the tramway
Galatasaray High School 9, to Karaköy, from where you can
ride the Tünel funicular train to
lost in greenery behind
Tünel Square at the southern
wrought- iron railings. In 1905, a
end of İstiklâl Caddesi in Beyoğlu.
group of students got together Travel up İstiklâl Caddesi by
here to form Galatasaray, one of nostalgic tram to Taksim Square.
Turkey’s leading football clubs. Stopping-off points: The fish
From here, go onto Turna- market on Sahne Sokak has lots
cıbaşı Sokak, which takes you of cheerful eateries. Cezayir Street
is ideal for an elegant drink.
p Istanbul Modern
TAKSIM
MEYDANI
past the Greek Orthodox Shopping and Museums
TA K S İ
1
Taksim school, Zografyon 0 on Çukurcuma Caddesi (see p109)
M
K
CA
IY
E SO
2 Taksim the left. In front of you is and Tomtom Kaptan Sokak
D
R AB İ
ES Galatasaray Hamamı q, intersect here and both have
MIS
KU
DD
İM
CA
Turkish baths built in 1481 curio shops such as Tüterler r
SO
AM SOK
AL
Sİ
L
KA
K
DDE
Tİ
AD
and in use ever since. at No. 186. At the bottom of this

M
İS
ĞI
EŞ
N
K
AN
SO
EL
Take the steep street on the corner of Defterdar

İLER CA
K
İPE
İK
SO
cobbled street that descends Yokuşu is the Tophane t, once

KA
İP
ĞI
3 UN GĞAI
L
beside the Turkish baths, an Ottoman cannon foundry.
S E LV
K
ŞN KA ĞI SO
Çapanoğlu Sokak, which Cross Necatibey Caddesi over
ÇU
HA SO KA U
AH
SO RC
KU
L U
UD
becomes a staircase at the the tram line to the 16th-

SIRA
LL
RL
TE
Bİ
U
UD
bottom. Turn right onto Harbiye century Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque y
U
I
SO
Ğ
IŞ
A
Sokak and you will
IK
(see p108), one of the last master-

K
K
SO
SO
reach French Street, pieces of architect Mimar Sinan.

K
A
M
Lİ
VA
or Fransız Sokağı w Attached to it is a beautifully
ĞI
SO
on the left, where an restored Turkish bathhouse, the
KA
K
M I SO
elegant French Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı. Opposite

ambience meets is the Tophane Fountain u (see
HAMA
classy Beyoğlu. Enjoy p108) built in 1732, which now

AĞA
lunch or a glass of bestows locally bottled drinking

PA L A SK
A S OK wine at one of the water. From here you can also
French-style cafés. see the Baroque Clock Tower i.
Refreshed, continue Continue left along Salı Pazarı
USU
KA SATU
RA SO
along French Street o with its shops, restaurants
K
t Interior of the Tophane and at the end turn and narghile (bubble pipe)
YOK
TÜF
D
cannon foundry right onto Boğazkesen smokers. A sign directs you to

CA
EKÇ
DAR
R
the Istanbul Modern p (see

CÜ
Caddesi and continue

İ SA
GÜ
Lİ
left down the hill until you p109), with its collection of
RK
H SO
TER
TÜ İ K
BATARYA SOK E S SO reach Tomtom Kaptan Mosque contemporary Turkish art.
D D EBİ
K
CA
DEF
A RL
AR
M
EK e. The pretty 17th-century To get back to the city centre,
TK R
NA
A İ fountain here, which was once catch the west-bound tram which
SA
RL ES
DD
A
K
AT CA
SAN a grand landmark, is now takes you back to Sultanahmet
S AN
EB
U sadly neglected. over the Galata Bridge.
M
t İSİ
CL
ME
Tophane
o
u
y p
i
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Key
Walk route y Kılıc Ali Pașa Mosque

A 90-Minute Walk from Beyazıt to Galata

Istanbul is a seductive mix of ancient and modern, religious Coffee and Spices
and secular, and this walk will give you a flavour of both. Turn left onto Ismetiye Caddesi
Starting at Beyazıt Tower in the city’s historic quarter, the route and then left again on to
Uzunçarsi Caddesi. Walk to the
takes you through narrow shopping streets brimming with
end of the street until you reach
energy, over the Galata Bridge with its stunning views of the bustling Tahtakale Caddesi,
Bosphorus, to the Beyoğlu district, where the shops, bars and where you can jostle with the
cafés lend Istanbul its chic reputation. locals who come here to shop
for bargains on everything from
electronic goods to clothing. On
the right is the Tahtakale Hamamı
Çarşısı 6, a 16th-century Turkish
bathhouse that has been reno-
vated and turned into a shopping
centre. There is also a lovely café
under the domed roof where
you can stop to refuel.Turn down
any of the side streets to the left
and you will come to Hasırcılar
Caddesi 7, famed for its spice
shops, coffee stalls and delis.
Walk towards the end of the
street, turn left on to Tahmis
Magnificent façade of Süleymaniye Mosque

RA
GI
P G
Mimar Sinan Architecture Mosque 3 (see pp92–3). This KA
NT
KU
TU
ÜM
ÜSG
Start from the Kalenderhane breathtaking structure was AR
CIL
CU
LA ALA
AR RC CAD
O R D P R O DDESİ
CA AD
HA
Mosque 1 (see pp94), once an completed in 1557 by D
SI
FETV
A 5 RC
important Byzantine church and architect Mimar Sinan YO
7
IL
AR
CA
CA DD ESİ
K KUŞ
U S
SO CA
F CEM
SO R
today a mosque. Walk north (see p93). Keep going 4N O

K
MI ILE
E KA D
M
İM
A
8
MA EC
6
Ğ
H
A
under one of the arches of the until you reach Şifa-

I
FA TO
İ L BİL
Ç
HA ÖKM
R
Sİ PA I Ç E
TA C A
Sİ
M
N
RU
UZ UN ÇA RŞI
HT DD
Z
P.
SO AR
A
Valens Aqueduct 2 (see pp91), hane Sokak. Turn

D
K
N
AK ES
SE L
S
K
ID
SİYAVUŞ PAŞA
SO
CA
AL İ
3
D
K
D
IK
a masterpiece of late Roman right into the street

NI CU
E
ŞAHİNDE
K
M
SA
SOK
SO
ED
K AR E S
HA BUN
SOK
M
İO
N ES
engineering. Continue up 16 and, if you are feeling

U İ
SA
N
N SO
A
İ
CADDESİ
Mart Şehitelri Caddesi to join peckish or thirsty, you VAS IF ÇINA R
K
İSMET İYE CAD CAD DES İ

Prof Sıddık Sami Onar Caddesi in can make a pit stop at
CA DD ES
HA MA Mİ
ÖRÜCÜLER
F U AT
the shadow of the Süleymaniye historic Dârüzziyafe

CADDESİ
B E S İ M Ö M E R PA Ş A C A D D
restaurant 4, with
Kalenderhane K
2
PA Ş A
its 16th-century Mosque YO

YO K UŞ U
Tips for Walkers detailing, K ÇI

LA
R
ÇA K MA
CADDESİ
Starting point: Kalenderhane housed in 1 M ER

CAN
CA D
Mosque. the former Vezneciler
Length: 4 km (2.5 miles). soup VE

ESİ
Z NE
Getting there: From the Old City, CI
LE
R
CA
take the T1 tram going west to DD
ES BEYAZIT
I MEYDANI
Laleli/Üniversite and walk up
Büyük Reşit Paşa Caddesi to
Kalenderhane Mosque. From Laleli/Üniversite
Taksim/Beyoğlu, catch the M2 Caddesi and
Metro to Vezneciler station, just you will reach
south of Kalenderhane Mosque. Kurukahreci Mehmet Efendi
Stopping-off points: You are
kitchens of the Süleymaniye 8, a traditional coffee shop,
never far from a café or bar in
Mosque (see p199). Turn right on opened in 1871, famous for
Istanbul, but the obvious halfway
to Mimar Sinan Caddesi and at its range of blends.
stopping-off point is at one of the
numerous cafés or bars on Galata the bottom of the street, on the
Bridge. The streets around Galata corner in front of you, is the Galata Bridge
Tower and the southern end of tomb of the architect Mimar Walk to Galata Bridge 9 for
İstiklal Caddesi also have plenty Sinan 5 – a poignant tribute fantastic views of the city. You
of elegant taverns (meyhanes) to the great man even if its can either stroll across the top
and restaurants. design is humble compared to and watch the many amateur
his own creations. fishermen suspending their
Tünel BO
(İstiklal Caddesi) ST ŞA
i A H
N K
I U
Şişhane SO LU
KA
UZ
A DE y u Ğ
I
L C CAD
YO
K
t
SO
H
M
EN
BU EK
RE
D
r
YÜ CA
EK
K D
AL
-I
AR
İ
O KÇ U
HO
RD
CA
SE
D
K
SO
SO
CA
Y Ü K S E K K A L DI R I M
K
TATAR B EYI
M U SA
ŞA
EK
e
D
A
EN
A P
IH D
CA D
L EC CA
ZİY
LÜ I
K
ES
SO
D
CA
SI
İR
LE D
KU CA
MEK
ŞA
TA w LT
I
LA
AN
A
CAD
GA
BA ER
NK M
SO K
A LA KE
R CA
D DESİ q Fishermen hoping for a catch on Galata Bridge
M CA
A D
KARAKÖY HARAÇÇI
LI
CADDESİ ALİ SOK
YE
Tunel (Karaköy)
Judaism to Islam hi-tech. Tucked away off to the
TER GÜM RÜK
S A N E C ADDESİ
SOKA GI
˘ Walk up Harraççi Ali right on Galip Dede Caddesi is
Karaköy
Sokak until you the Mevlevi Lodge t (see
0 CADD
ES reach the Jewish p106), once home to the
İ
RIHTIM
Museum q on Whirling Dervishes.
Karaköy Perçemli Sokak, close to
Karaköy Tünel station. This Chic Tünel
17th-century museum, once At the top of the street, at
ge
rid
a synagogue, now contains a Tünel Square on the southern

aB
9 fascinating collection of old terminus of İstiklal Caddesi ,

lat
Ga
photographs, documents and you have the option of

religious objects relating to catching the underground
the city’s Jewish population. funicular y back down to
Eminönü
From here, walk up Camekan Karaköy. The one-stop subway
Sokak to the Gothic-looking was opened in 1876 and is the
RE
ŞA
DİY Beyoğlu Hospital w, built in third-oldest underground
E
Eminönü CA
D
1904 as a British naval hospital. system in the world after that
C
M AM
EY İ
DA
Continue until you come to of London and New York.
8 NI
SO the Galata Tower e (see p107) However, do not miss the
EK K
A D
RI in Galata Square, the focal opportunity to experience this

İC
AM
point of the district. The 360° fashionable neighbourhood.

YENİ C
ŞE
PE HİN
HL
viewing deck at the top of Just opposite the funicular is
EV ŞAH
A Ş İ R E FEN
IC
AD 8 Coffee machine, the tower gives the perfect Tünel Geçidi, an open-air
Dİ
CA
D Kurukahveci Mehmet vantage point from which to passage lined with late
Efendi see almost the entire city laid 19th-century European-style
out before you. buildings, most of which
MAHMUT
Now turn right and left on to have now been turned into
Yüksek Kaldırım Caddesi r, a apartments with shops and
Key
PAŞA
steep cobblestone street lined cafés at ground level. For a

Walk route with music shops selling just refreshing iced coffee in
about every conceivable sumptuous Viennese-style
musical instrument you can surroundings, pop into the
0 metres 250 think of, both traditional and KV restaurant u, before
0 yards 250
making your way
to ARtrium
i to pick up
rods into the water below in some high-
hope of a catch, or go down class antiques.
the steps and walk along the To return to
lower deck, where there are a Sultanahmet/Old
number of cafés, bars and City, catch the
restaurants. After a leisurely Tünel funicular
moment spent taking in the back to Karaköy
breathtaking views of the Bos- and walk through
phorus below, continue to the the underground
bustling and aromatic Karaköy shopping centre
fish market 0, home to cafés to the Karaköy
serving delicious fish meals and T1 tram station.
sandwiches at bargain prices. Fresh fish at the Karaköy fish market
TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 182–189

Where to Eat and Drink 190–209
Shops and Markets 210–219
Entertainment in Istanbul 220–223
182 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Whether you feel like staying in an Ottoman grand old hotels of the 19th century. Design
palace, taking a room in a restored mansion hotels are also proliferating in all areas.
or a traditional wooden house, or even The hotels listed on pages 186–9 have
spending a night in a converted prison, you been chosen from the best the city can
will find the hotel of your choice in Istanbul. offer across all price ranges. Each hotel is
As tourism continues to boom, the city’s given a brief description and details are
hotels and guesthouses now cater to every provided about the facilities available.
kind of taste and budget. Accommodation For a broad range, check the website
in Istanbul tends to be clustered around the www.istanbulhotels.com. Cornucopia,
main sightseeing areas. Sultanahmet has a glossy magazine about Turkey, offers
many of the city’s historic hotels, guesthouses a hand-picked selection available for
and boutique hotels. Beyoğlu, across the booking at www.cornucopiahotels.com.
Golden Horn, is a good place to look for Information on other types of accommo-
three- and four-star hotels, including the dation can be found on page 185.
Choosing a Hotel
Many hotels in Istanbul are
rated by the Ministry of Culture
and Tourism according to a star
system. They range from com-
fortable but basic one-star
hotels to five-star luxury hotels.
Other types of accommodation
licensed by the Ministry are the
converted buildings known as
Special Licence hotels. A further
category is the accommodation
licensed by the Greater Istanbul
Municipality. These hotels offer
perfectly reasonable facilities,
but with less stringent standards.
Accommodation is available
in most central areas of the city. Elegant furnishing at Baylo Suites
The Sultanahmet district is
conveniently situated within to the Sea of Marmara. hotels here boast spectacular
walking distance of most of the Along with these, there are views of Marmara or the
city’s major sights. Many of the also middle-range hotels in Bosphorus, and between them
Special Licence hotels in this central Sultanahmet. they have some of the best
area are tucked away on formerly Beyoğlu, the old European international restaurants in the
residential side streets. There are centre of Istanbul, is within easy city. All the major hotels have
guesthouses along Divanyolu reach of the best sights in the swimming pools and health
Caddesi, the main road, and city. This area has innumerable clubs. Many of them also have
along the slopes leading down impressive hotels that are Turkish baths. Conference
comfortable and dependable, facilities are provided, and many
international chain hotels and hotels have extensive entertain-
some stylish recent additions. ment facilities. Most of them
The Asian side of Istanbul can also arrange tours of
is mainly residential, but has Istanbul and nearby places
some hotels, though they are through local companies. They
generally used more by Turks also provide facilities for dis-
than foreigners and tourists. abled visitors, arrange special
activities for children (see p184)
and have wireless Internet in all
Luxury Hotels their rooms.
There has been rapid growth
in the number of luxury hotels
in the city, and most international Special Licence Hotels
The luxurious Four Seasons Hotel (see chains are now represented in A number of the city’s old
p187), formerly a prison Istanbul. Almost all five-star buildings have been renovated
An array of Turkish lanterns for sale
W H E R E TO S TAY 183
and transformed into historic

hotels. However, due to the
nature of the buildings in
which they are housed, some
of these hotels cannot provide
facilities such as lifts. They
belong to a separate category,
the Special Licence hotels,
and are under independent
private management.
These hotels constitute
some of Istanbul’s most
interesting and attractive
hotels. They are often located
in the residential streets of
historic areas, and range
from small, modestly priced Lovely view from the rooftop terrace of the historic Adahan Istanbul (see p187)
traditional wooden houses
to luxury Ottoman mansions standards of accommodation may not provide hot water 24
and town houses. Special in the city. All have their own hours a day.
Licence hotels, whether websites on which you can
large or small, are generally take a virtual tour, compare What to Expect
of a high standard. prices and facilities, and make All hotels listed in this book
The authentic period decor of a booking. are comfortable and welcom-
many of them gives even the ing. Front desk staff usually
larger ones a warm atmosphere. speak English, and will be
The listings on the following Cheaper Hotels able to offer information on
pages provide plenty of Istanbul has plenty of cheap, sights and travel.
examples, especially of comfortable accommodation, At some budget and mid-
boutique Special Licence hotels which meets the standards range hotels you may need to
in Sultanahmet. Increasingly, of the Turkish Ministry of specify if you want a double
many of the city’s boutique-style Culture and Tourism. bed rather than two singles
hotels are opting not to apply However, if you are choosing when booking or checking in.
for official ratings or stars. one of the cheaper hotels, Most hotels with three or
This does not, however, do not base your decision on more storeys will have a lift.
imply any lack of standards or the façade or lobby, which may However, there may not be
amenities. In fact, these look brand new. a lift in a Special Licence hotel
establishments are contributing One-star hotels provide the because of the problems
to the continually rising most basic facilities, but often of installing one in an older
have rooms with a building. Facilities for
private shower and wheelchair users are
toilet. Two- and three- increasingly found in
star hotels have more hotels these days.
comfortable rooms and Noise can be a problem
usually a café or bar. even in some smart hotels,
Many three-star hotels so in busy areas choose a
offer rooms with a TV room that does not face a
and mini-bar. main street. If you are not
Guesthouses vary satisfied with your room, you
in terms of facilities. can always ask for another.
Most provide bedlinen Breakfast is included in
and towels, and the the price of the room and
better ones will have typically consists of a generous
rooms with en-suite open buffet, including cold
bathrooms. All should meats, fruits, cereals and yogurt.
have communal Many larger hotels have
cooking facilities. While restaurants that serve à la carte
cheaper hotels usually meals. Upmarket hotels have at
have central heating, least one dining room serving
they are unlikely to evening meals, but some of the
have air conditioning, smaller, cheaper hotels do not.
but an electric fan It is a good idea to check while
Pretty façade of Yeşil Ev (see p186), a Special may be provided. booking and confirm by email
Licence hotel Some small hotels or fax before you visit.
tion later. All hotels accept the

major credit cards, as well as
Turkish lira and other currencies.
VAT is always included in the
room price. It is usual to leave a
few dollars, or its equivalent, in
the room for the cleaner, and to
give a tip to the receptionist to
be divided among the staff.
Phone calls and mini-bar drinks
can add to the size of your bill.
Children
Grand entrance to Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah (see p188) Children up to six years of age
are often not charged for rooms,
Prices and Discounts booking websites. You may be and pay 50 per cent until 12 years
Hotel prices are quoted in US asked to give your credit card old. It is possible to negotiate a
dollars, Euros and Turkish lira (¨). details, which will guarantee your discount for older children who
Prices are per room, not per reservation. If you cannot find a share a room with their parents.
person. All prices usually include place in any of the hotels that fall Most hotels also have cots.
breakfast and tax. Apart from in your preferred price range, try Some hotels arrange special
top-class hotels, which have one of the established travel entertainment for children. The
standard prices that do not companies based in Istanbul, Swissôtel (see p189) offers a
change through the such as Gazella weekend package.
year, tariffs differ Travel Designer,
according to the Meptur, Plan Tours
season. The busy (see p245) or VIP Hostels
season, when hotel Tourism. If you arrive For those on a tight budget,
prices tend to be at without a reser- Istanbul has a number of
their highest, is from vation, the tourist inexpensive hostels, mostly
April to the end of information offices in the Sultanahmet area. The
October. During the (see p229) in the Sultan Hostel is located right
brief Christmas and airport, Sirkeci in the heart of the Sultanahmet
New Year period, Station, Sultanahmet district, close to Haghia Sophia,
the higher summer Square or Karaköy Topkapı Palace and the Grand
tariffs are applied. International Bazaar. The Sultan is a member
There are few single Lounge area of the Empress Maritime Terminal of the International Youth
rooms, but all hotels Zoe (see p186) will help you find a Hostel Federation (IYHF) and
offer a single room hotel, but they will offers a discount for members.
rate of slightly more than half not make a reservation for you. There are many other hostels in
the price of a double room. the city; those on the north side
It is always worth attempting of the Golden Horn in Galata
to bargain with hotels, but do Checking Out and Paying and Beyoğlu, such as #Bunk, are
not expect to get a discount. For Guests are expected to check popular among youngsters due
longer stays of a week or more, out by midday, but hotels will to the area’s vibrant nightlife.
you may be able to get a reduc- usually keep luggage for collec- On the same street is the Orient
tion. Some hotels also offer
discounts for Internet bookings,
cash payments, or out-of-season
stays. However, do not expect a
room with any kind of a view if
you have got it at a discount.
While you will always be able
to find a room of a reasonable
standard, it is advisable to book in
advance for the best hotels or
those of your choice during the
busy season. You can book any
hotel listed in this guide directly,
by telephone, fax and email.
Nearly all hotels also have their
own website registration forms
and are included in the major Indoor pool at The Edition (see p189)
DIRECTORY
Travel Agents
Gazella Travel Designer
Ulus Mah Öztopuz Cad 16, Beşiktaş.
Tel (0212) 233 15 98.
∑ gazella.com
Meptur
Büyükdere Cad 26, Mecidiyeköy.
Tel (0212) 275 02 50.
∑ meptur.com.tr
Classy interiors at the excellent design hostel, #Bunk (see p188)
VIP Tourism
Hostel, a youth hostel with The Entes Apart Hotel has Cumhuriyet Cad 167A, Harbiye.
excellent facilities, including compact modern apartments. Tel (0212) 368 48 00.
a rooftop café, a bar and a safe. Global real estate franchises, such ∑ viptourism.com.tr
The tour operator Gençtur is as Century 21 and Remax, can
also affiliated to the IYHF and assist in finding long- or short- Youth Hostels
can provide information on term rental accommodation. #Bunk
other hostels. Balık Sok 7, Beyoğlu.
Map 7 D4. Tel (0212) 244 88 08.
∑ bunkhostels.com
Camping
Orient Hostel
Camping and caravanning in Akbıyık Cad 9, Sultanahmet.
Turkey have steadily gained Map 3 E5 (5 E5). Tel (0212) 517
popularity in recent years. 94 93. ∑ orienthostel.com
There is an ever-increasing
variety of excellent camp sites Sultan Hostel
with self-catering facilities open Akbıyık Cad 17, Sultanahmet.
in the summer season, which Map 3 E5 (5 E5). Tel (0212) 516
92 60. ∑ sultanhostel.com
lasts from May until October.
Londra Kamping is open Camping
through the year. It has facilities
for washing and cooking, a fast- Londra Kamping
food restaurant, bar, pool table The Dolmabahçe Mosque as viewed from Londra Asfaltı, Bakırköy.
and football pitch. As well as the Swissôtel (see p189) Tel (0212) 560 42 00.
providing facilities for camping, Fax (0212) 559 34 38.
it also has two-room bungalows Recommended Hotels
Turkish Camping and
for rent. The accommodation options Caravanning Association
For further details, contact featured in this guide have Bestekar sok, No. 62/12
the Turkish Camping and been selected from across a Kavaklıdere, Ankara.
Caravanning Association, wide price range for their Tel (0312) 466 19 97.
which is helpful and informative. excellent facilities, good ∑ kampkaravan.org.tr
The association also has a web- location and value. These
site with comprehensive listings include stylish, modern hotels Self-catering
of sites throughout the country. as well as hotels steeped in
Akmerkez Residence
history. Visitors can also Akmerkez Shopping & Business
consider staying in one of Centre, Etiler.
Self-catering the well-furnished apartment Tel (0212) 282 01 20.
Istanbul has a growing number hotels. For a more intimate ∑ akmerkez.com.tr
of apartment hotels providing experience, there are several
fully furnished apartments for acclaimed guesthouses and Century 21
Topçular Kişla Cad 5, Rami-Eyüp.
those who prefer more homely boutique options, along with
Tel (0212) 493 26 00.
surroundings. In the listings, we hostels for those on a budget.
∑ century21.com.tr
have included a number of The places highlighted as DK
stand out apartments, which Choice are the very best of the Entes Apart Hotel
are handy for tourists. The pack, chosen for being İpek Sok 19, Taksim.
Akmerkez Residence, which is outstanding in some way. Map 7 E4.
mostly used by businessmen, They may stand in beautiful Tel (0212) 293 22 08.
is in the upmarket Akmerkez surroundings, be located ∑ entesapart.com
shopping mall in Etiler (see p211). within a historically important Remax
Its luxuriously decorated flats building or simply offer a Tel (0212) 232 48 20.
have air conditioning and particularly special and ∑ remax.com.tr
all the domestic appliances. memorable experience.
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Apartments Boutique Hotels For a standard double room per night,
inclusive of breakfast, service charges
Seraglio Point Seraglio Point and any additional taxes.
Romantic Mansion Istanbul ¨¨ ¨ up to ¨250
Nöbethane Cad, Tayahatun ¨¨ ¨250–500
Sok 28, Sirkeci DK Choice ¨¨¨ over ¨500
Tel (0212) 638 96 35 Map 5 E1 The Kybele Hotel ¨¨
∑ romanticmansion.com Yerebatan Cad 35, Hotel Ibrahim Pasha ¨¨
Three lovely flats in a self-sufficient Sultanahmet, 34410 Terzihane Sok 5, 34110
pink and white building. Views of Tel (0212) 511 77 66 Map 5 E3 Tel (0212) 518 03 94 Map 5 D4
Gulhane Park from the terrace. ∑ kybelehotel.com ∑ ibrahimpasha.com
Four thousand coloured glass Stylish, well-run hotel housed in a
lamps decorate this wooden pair of atmospheric town houses
Beyoğlu Sultanahmet town house, while away from traffic. Elegant rooms
antique gramophones vie for where old meets new.
attention with heavy fabrics and
DK Choice equally rich wallpaper. Yet, the Hotel Nomade ¨¨
Baylo Suites ¨¨ overdone,
Kybele never feels overdone, Ticarethane Sok 15, 34410
Galata Kulesi Sok 24, 34420 only welcoming and relaxed. Tel (0212) 513 81 72 Map 5 D3
Tel (0212) 245 98 60 Map 3 D1 ∑ hotelnomade.com
∑ baylosuites.com This designer hotel makes a
Four self-contained apartments Sirkeci Mansıon ¨¨¨ refreshing change from the faux-
in a historic Galata building, Taya Hatun Sok 5, 34120, Sirkeci Ottoman hotels around it. Stylish
lovingly restored by a mother- Tel (0212) 528 43 44 Map 5 E2 roof terrace with commanding
daughter team. It is Istanbul’s ∑ sirkecimansion.com views of the Haghia Sophia.
first historic restoration project Extremely well-run hotel set in a
to meet American ecological period building abutting the outer Hotel Turkoman ¨¨
standards. Many original features walls of the Topkapı Palace com- Asmalı Çeşme Sok 2, Adliye Yanı, 34490
have been preserved, and a plex. A gym, sauna and great Tel (0212) 516 29 56 Map 5 D4
gallery downstairs sells historic rooftop terrace make it special. ∑ turkomanhotel.com
prints, postcards and maps. Down-to-earth, with 18 simple
and comfortable rooms, helpful
Sultanahmet staff and incredible views.
Galata Flats ¨¨ Aruna ¨
Tünel Meydanı 84, 34430 Cankurtaran Mah, Ahırkapı Hotel Valide
Tel (0212) 244 26 76 Map 7 D5 Sok 74, 34122 Sultan Konağı ¨¨
∑ galataflats.com Tel (0212) 458 54 88 Map 5 F5 Ishakpasa Cad Kutlugün Sok 1,
Ideal for longer stays, with homely ∑ arunahotel.com 34122
comforts and plenty of space. Homely, with Jacuzzis or hamam- Tel (0212) 517 65 58 Map 5 F4
Flats are serviced daily. style bathrooms in suites. Some ∑ hotelvalidesultan.com
rooms have separate living areas. Family-run, with an emphasis on
Istanbul Place Apartments ¨¨¨ service. Quaint, antique furnishings,
Serdar-ı Ekrem Cad, Galata Hotel Nena ¨ but all modern conveniences.
Tel (0772) 925 16 76 Klodfarer Cad 8–10, 34122
∑ istanbulplace.com Tel (0212) 516 52 64 Map 5 D4 White House Hotel ¨¨
Friendly Anglo-Turkish couple ∑ istanbulhotelnena.com Çatalçeşme Sok 21, 34122
offer a range of beautifully Stylish and charming hotel Tel (0212) 526 00 19 Map 3 D4
restored period apartments. with a leafy courtyard café and ∑ istanbulwhitehouse.com
terrace restaurant. Plush Neo-Ottoman style hotel
with ultra-high standards of service.
Dersaadet ¨¨ Well-located and has major sights
Küçük Ayasofya Cad, Kapıağası at easy walking distance.
Sok 5, 34400
Tel (0212) 458 07 60 Map 5 D5 Yeşil Ev ¨¨
∑ dersaadethotel.com Kabasakal Cad 5, 34122
A striking, red, wooden building Tel (0212) 517 67 85 Map 5 E4
close to the Blue Mosque. Antique ∑ yesilev.com.tr
decor; friendly, professional staff. This hotel ushered in a new era of
boutique tourism in Sultanahmet.
Hotel Empress Zoe ¨¨ It is one of the best options here.
Akbiyik Cad 10, 34122
Tel (0212) 518 43 60 Map 5 F4
∑ emzoe.com Beyoğlu
Lovely garden courtyard, Byzan- Sub Hotel ¨¨
tine substructures and a roof Necatibey Cad 91, Karaköy, 34435
terrace with great Haghia Sophia Tel (0212) 243 00 05 Map 3 E1
and Blue Mosque views. Indi- ∑ subistanbul.com
Simple and classy bedroom interiors vidually designed rooms and Hip hotel with a trendy bar on
at Baylo Suites, Beyoğlu professional management. the roof terrace. Rooms are in
bold colours with rivetted iron

bathroom stalls. The organic
breakfast here is a treat.
The House Hotel Galatasaray ¨¨

Firuzağa Mah, Bostanbaşı
Cad 19, 34425
Tel (0212) 252 04 22 Map 7 E4
∑ thehousehotel.com
Homeliest of the House Hotels in
a stylishly restored 19th-century
town house located on a quiet
street below bustling İstiklal
Caddesi. Lovely views from
the roof terrace.
Georges Hotel Galata ¨¨¨ Picturesque setting of The House Hotel Bosphorus
Serdar-ı Ekrem Cad 24, 34425
Tel (0212) 244 24 23 Map 7 D5 Beyond Istanbul Ottoman Hotel Imperial ¨¨
∑ georges.com Acqua Verde ¨¨ Caferiye Sok 6/1, 34400, Sultanahmet
First-class luxury and great views Kurfallı Yakuplu Cad 34980, Şile Tel (0212) 513 61 51 Map 5 E3
in a grand town house. Contem- Tel (0216) 721 71 43 ∑ ottomanhotelimperial.com
porary features include iPad dock- ∑ acquaverde.com.tr A converted Ottoman hospital
ing stations and flatscreen TVs. Set on the reed-lined banks of a that offers sheer opulence.
river, this hotel offers a mix of Traditional Ottoman-style rooms.
Vault Karaköy ¨¨¨ stylish standard rooms and
Bankalar Cad 5, Karaköy, 34421 bungalows with a rustic feel.
Tel (0212) 244 34 00 Map 3 D1 Sultanahmet
∑ thehousehotel.com A’jia ¨¨ Deluxe Golden Horn Hotel ¨¨
A grandiose 19th-century bank Çubuklu Cad 27, Kanlıca, 34810 Binbirdirek Meydanı Sok 1, 34400
converted into a superb boutique Tel (0216) 413 93 00 Tel (0212) 518 17 17 Map 5 D4
hotel run by the House group. ∑ ajiahotel.com ∑ goldenhornhotel.com
Stocked with fine wines. Converted traditional wooden One of the few hotels to maintain
waterfront yalı (mansion), at a an atmosphere of the Orient
Witt Istanbul Suites ¨¨¨ Bosphorus-front location, with Express era. Pleasingly traditional.
Defterdar Yokuşu 26, Cihangir, 34433 contemporary décor.
Tel (0212) 293 15 00 Map 7 E5 Four Seasons Sultanahmet ¨¨¨
∑ wittistanbul.com Aya Nikola Butik Pansiyon ¨¨ Tevkifhane Sok 1, 34110
Well-run designer hotel with a Aya Nikola Mevki 104, Büyükada, Tel (0212) 402 30 00 Map 5 F4
stunning roof terrace. Great 34970 ∑ fourseasons.com
location adds to its charm. Tel (0126) 382 41 43 Originally an Ottoman prison,
On the waterfront in Büyükada, this luxurious hotel now offers
this 11-room hotel is a real get- ample pampering, plus a herb-
Greater Istanbul away and the perfect antidote to scented garden.
Kariye Hotel ¨ teeming Istanbul.
Kariye Camii Sok 6, Edirnekapi
Tel (0212) 534 84 14 Map 1 B1 Hotel des Etrangers ¨¨ Bazaar Quarter
∑ kariyeotel.com Yalı Cad 25, Çanakkale Legacy Ottoman ¨¨
Next door to the Church of St Tel (0286) 214 24 24 Hamidiye Cad 16, Eminönü, 34112
Saviour in Chora, this period build- Charming eight-room boutique Tel (0212) 527 67 67 Map 5 D1
ing makes for an unusual stay in hotel, close to the waterfront in ∑ legacyottomanhotel.com
Istanbul. The excellent Asitane the seaside town of Çanakkale. Impressive early 20th-century
restaurant (see p204) is attached. complex that dominates the
Mehtap 45 ¨¨ bustling market. Simple rooms.
The House Hotel Nişantaşı ¨¨ Burgazada
Abdi İpekçi Cad 34, Nişantaşı, 34367 Tel (0126) 381 26 60
Tel (0212) 224 59 99 Map 7 F1 Set on the most peaceful of the Beyoğlu
∑ thehousehotel.com four main Princes’ Islands, Burga- Büyük Londra Oteli (Grand Hotel
The House chain’s most fashionable zada, with sea views across to de Londres) ¨
address; set above the Prada store. metropolitan Istanbul. Meşrutiyet Cad 53, 34430, Tepebaşı
Features include a well-stocked Tel (0212) 245 06 70 Map 7 D4
library and lavish buffet breakfast. ∑ londrahotel.net
This period hotel is one of the
Historic Hotels most famous in Istanbul and
Bosphorus great value.
The House Seraglio Point
Hotel Bosphorus ¨¨¨ Ayasofya Konakları ¨¨ Adahan Istanbul ¨¨
Salhane Sok 1, Ortaköy, 34347 Soğuk Çeşme Sok, Sultanahmet, 34400 General Yazgan Sokağı 14, 34430
Tel (0212) 327 77 87 Map 8 A3 Tel (0212) 513 36 00 Map 5 F3 Tel (0212) 243 85 81 Map 7 D5
∑ thehousehotel.com ∑ ayasofyakonaklari.com ∑ adahanistanbul.com
Celebrity favourite; by a scenic 19th-century wooden Ottoman Sensitively restored historic
waterside square and close to the mansions along a leafy cobbled apartment building. Large rooms,
city’s exclusive night spots. street. Pretty courtyard café. high ceilings and simple design.
For more information on types of hotels see page 182
Les Ottomans ¨¨¨ Beyond Istanbul

Muallim Nacı Cad 68 Geçim Pansiyon ¨
Tel (0212) 359 15 00 Avşaadası, 10940, Avşaadası
∑ lesottomans.com Tel (0535) 926 10 20
Housed in an old waterfront ∑ gecimpansiyon.net
mansion, Les Ottomans offers On an island in the Sea of
superlative Bosphorus views. Relax Marmara reached by ferry
in the sumptuous Caudalie spa or from Istanbul and Tekirdağ.
dine at the Şamadan restaurant.
Rustempaşa Kervansaray ¨
Iki Kapılıhan Cad 57, Edirne, 22100
Tel (0284) 212 61 19
Hostels and ∑ edirnekervansarayhotel.com
Guesthouses Converted 16th-century
caravanserai. Small, but
Sultanahmet comfortable rooms.
Agora Guest
House and Hostel ¨
Amiral Tafdil Sok 6
Tel (0212) 458 55 47 Map 5 F5 Modern Hotels
Impressive entrance to the Pera Palace ∑ agoraguesthouse.com
Hotel Jumeirah, Beyoğlu Well-renovated accommodation Seraglio Point
with a communal lounge and TV, Gulhane Park Hotel ¨
Palazzo Donizetti ¨¨¨ computer terminals, and a great Nöbethane Cad 1, 34112, Sirkeci
Asmali Mescit Sok 55, 34400 terrace. Choose between mixed- Tel (0212) 519 68 68 Map 5 E1
Tel (0212) 249 51 51 Map 7 D5 sex dorms or private doubles. ∑ gulhaneparkhotel.com.tr
∑ palazzodonizetti.com Overlooking the Topkapı Palace
A grand old building reminiscent Akdenız Hotel gardens, with fairly priced rooms,
of a European château, with a Guest House ¨ a gym and hamam.
continental approach to luxury. Haci Tahsin Bey Sok 7, 34410
Tel (0212) 520 20 99 Arden City Hotel ¨¨
Pera Palace ∑ istanbulakdenizhotel.com Kazım Ismail Gürkan Cad 2,
Hotel Jumeirah ¨¨¨ Modest guesthouse with clean, Sultanahmet
Meşrutiyet Cad 52, 34430, Tepebaşı comfortable rooms, and a hamam Tel (0212) 528 93 93 Map 5 E3
Tel (0212) 377 40 00 Map 7 D5 nearby. Ask for a discount. ∑ hotelarden.com
∑ jumeirah.com Recently renovated, with some
Quintessential Istanbul hotel with Sultan Hostel ¨ rooms overlooking the Sea of
suites named after famous guests. Akbıyık Cad 17, 34122 Marmara. Quick service, good
Tel (0212) 516 92 60 Map 5 F4 value for money.
∑ sultanhostel.com
Bosphorus Ideal for backpackers; choose Hagia Sophia Hotel
Çırağan Palace Kempinski ¨¨¨ between private and dorm rooms. Istanbul Old City ¨¨¨
Çırağan Cad 32, Beşiktaş Safe, close to main sights, and a Yerebatan Cad 13, 34110,
Tel (0212) 326 46 46 Map 9 E3 pub downstairs. Sultanahmet
∑ kempinski.com Tel (0212) 444 93 32 Map 5 E3
The only Istanbul hotel to occupy ∑ hsoldcity.com
a royal Ottoman palace. Waterside Beyoğlu Smart and modern option in the
terrace with heated infinity pool. heart of the Old City, with an
DK Choice
DK Choice #Bunk ¨
Sumahan on the Water ¨¨¨ Balik Sok 7, 34435
Kuleli Cad 43, 34684 Tel (0212) 244 88 08 Map 7 D4
Tel (0216) 422 80 00 ∑ bunkhostels.com
∑ sumahan.com A great and original idea – low-
A multi-award-winning con
converted
verted price accommoda
accommodation tion with a
distillery. Every room has a sea cool design philoso
philosophy
phy –
view, and some open onto a makes #Bunk the perfect base
lawn terrace. The hotel offers a for a social city break. The
boat shuttle service, in case group hopes to expand to
guests ever feel like leaving the more properties soon.
spa and excellent restaurant.
Rapunzel Guest House ¨

Kardibey Çıkmaz 4, Galata, 34420
Beyond Istanbul Tel (0212) 292 50 34 Map 6 D5
Splendid Palas Hotel ¨¨ ∑ rapunzelistanbul.com
23 Nisan Cad 53, Büyükada A mix of trendy dorms
Tel (0216) 382 69 50 and doubles in a well-restored
∑ splendidhotel.net and artistically decorated period
The most venerable hotel on house close to the landmark
the Princes’ Islands. Undeniable Galata Tower. Friendly, well-run Elegant room interior at #Bunk, a design
charm, and a historic heritage. and serves huge breakfasts. hostel in Beyoğlu
Key to Price Guide see page 186
English-style pub. Good for Hilton Istanbul ¨¨¨

business clients and sightseers. Cumhuriyet Cad, Harbiye, 34367
It also has a spacious and lovely Tel (0212) 315 60 00 Map 7 F2
garden restaurant. ∑ placeshilton.com
Surrounded by a park; the brand’s
first foray beyond the USA has
Sultanahmet built up quite a reputation.
Armada ¨
Ahır Kapı Sok 24, 34122 Swissôtel The Bosphorus ¨¨¨
Tel (0212) 455 44 55 Map 5 F5 Bayıldım Cad 2, 34330, Beşiktaş
∑ armadahotel.com.tr Tel (0212) 326 11 00 Map 8 A4
Popular with tour groups serious ∑ swissotel.com
about seeing the sights. The Huge windows give jaw-dropping
terrace restaurant has one of vistas across the Bosphorus. One
the best views in the city. of Istanbul’s top five luxury hotels,
Swissôtel features the award-
Blue House/Mavi Ev ¨¨ winning Purovel Spa and Sport.
Dalbasti Sok 14
Tel (0212) 638 90 10 Map 5 E5 W Hotel ¨¨¨
∑ bluehouse.com.tr Suleyman Seba Cad 22, Akaretler
Family-run, with first-class service. Beşiktaş, 34357
Tasteful rooms, three restaurants Tel (0212) 381 21 21 Map 8 B4
and all the necessary amenities. Sophisticated and luxurious lobby of ∑ wistanbul.com.tr
The Edition in Levent, Greater Istanbul Set among shops, galleries and
Pierre Loti Hotel ¨¨ restaurants, this hotel is aimed
Piyer Loti Cad 1, 34400 Beyoğlu squarely at a young, cool crowd.
Tel (0212) 518 57 00 Map 4 C4 Martı ¨¨ Rooms and suites have either
∑ pierrelotihotel.com Abdülhak Hamit Cad 25/B, gardens, terraces or cabanas.
Everything needed for a Taksim, 34435
comfortable and hassle-free Tel (0212) 987 40 00 Map 7 E3
stay, including spa and ∑ martiistanbulhotel.com Beyond Istanbul
hamam treatments. Elegant five-star hotel, one of the Anzac ¨
latest projects by interior designer Saat Kulesi Meydanı 8, 17100
Sura Hotel ¨¨ Zeynep Fadillioglu. Top-floor spa Canakkale
Ticarethane Sok 45 and gym have wonderful views. Tel (0286) 217 77 77
Tel (0212) 513 66 66 Map 5 D3 ∑ anzachotel.com
∑ surahotels.com Ceylan A good base from which to
This hotel has many striking Intercontinental ¨¨¨ explore the beaches and vine-
features: rooms are colour-coded Asker Ocağı Cad 1, Taksim, 34435 yards of the Dardanelles. The
by floor and suites come with rain Tel (0212) 368 44 44 Map 7 F3 Gallipoli campaign is commem-
showers or free-standing baths. ∑ istanbul.intercontinental.com.tr orated here on 25 April.
High-quality hospitality from this
world-renowned group of hotels. Kervansaray ¨
Bazaar Quarter Centrally located. Fatvahane Sok 13, Çanakkale
Antik Cisterna ¨¨ Tel (0286) 217 81 92
Sekbanbaşı Sok 10, Beyazıt, 34130 Taksim Marmara ¨¨¨ ∑ canakkalekervansarayhotel.com
Tel (0212) 638 58 58 Map 4 A3 Taksim Meydanı Along with Hotel des Etrangers, this
∑ antikhotel.com Tel (0212) 334 83 00 Map 7 E4 is the most characterful hotel in
Four-star hotel with a 1,500- ∑ taksim.themarmara Çanakkale. Converted red-brick
year-old cistern in the basement hotels.com early 20th-century mansion with
now used as an entertainment Landmark hotel, which towers a leafy courtyard out back.
venue. Floors are themed by over much of the city. Even the
historical events. relatively low gym and pool areas Almira, Bursa ¨¨
offer superb bird’s-eye views. Ulubatlı Hasan Bulvarı 5,
Grand Beyazid Hotel ¨¨ 16200, Bursa
Mithat Paşa Cad, Abuhayat Sok 5 Tel (0224) 250 20 20
34490, Beyazıt Greater Istanbul ∑ almira.com.tr
Tel (0212) 638 46 41 Map 4 A4 A large, luxurious hotel with a
∑ hotelbeyazid.com music venue, restaurants, bars,
Just outside the main tourist DK Choice shopping and swimming pools
area, and of a similar standard The Edition ¨¨¨ on site. There is also a terrace
to more expensive hotels. Büyükdere Cad 136, 34330 overlooking the city.
Tel (0212) 317 77 00
Niles Hotel ¨¨ ∑ editionhotels.com Hotel Çelik Palace
Dibekli Cami Sok 13, Beyazıt, 34130 The Edition is in the heart of Thermal Spa ¨¨
Tel (0212) 517 32 39 Map 2 C4 Istanbul’s business district, but Çekirge Cad 79, 16000, Bursa
∑ hotelniles.com once inside, you enter a private Tel (0224) 233 38 00
Good value, extremely well- world of luxury. Should visitors ∑ celikpalasotel.com
run and located on a quiet want to venture out, there is a The star attraction is the
(for Istanbul) side street running convenient metro connection
convenient connection biggest thermal pool in the
down to the Sea of Marmara. sightseeing and shop-
to the sightseeing city. Best to relax after skiing
Nicely-furnished, faux- ping areas. The bar and restaur- on Uludağ or exploring Bursa’s
Ottoman rooms. ant is managed by Cipriani’s. Ottoman sights.
For more information on types of hotels see page 182
WHERE TO EAT
AND DRINK
Istanbul’s restaurants range from the informal available. The restaurants listed on pages
lokanta and kebab house, which are found on 196–207 have been chosen from the best that
almost every street corner, to the gourmet Istanbul has to offer across all price ranges, from
restaurants (restoran) of large hotels. There are casual eateries to award-winning restaurants.
a variety of international restaurants in the city They have been recommended for their quality
that offer fare from France to Japan at middle of food, service and value for money. A detailed
to high prices. Pages 192–4 illustrate the most description is provided with examples of
typical Turkish dishes, and the phrase book on signature dishes. Light meals and snacks sold
pages 279–80 will help you tackle the menu. by street vendors and served in cafés and
On page 195, you will find a guide to drinks bars are described on pages 208–9.
Where to Look Types of Restaurant

Istanbul’s smartest and most The most common type of
expensive restaurants are con- restaurant is the traditional
centrated in the European parts lokanta – an ordinary restaurant
of the city: along the Bosphorus offering a variety of dishes, often
in Ortaköy; in and around Taksim; listed by the entrance. Home-
in the chic shopping districts made dishes comprise hot meat
of Nişantaşı, Maçka, Bebek and and vegetable dishes displayed
Teşvikiye; and in the modern in steel containers. Other options
residential suburbs of Levent and may be sulu yemek (a stew) and
Etiler, west of the Bosphorus. et (grilled meat and kebabs).
The best gourmet restaurants Equally ubiquitous is the
for both Western and Turkish Turkish kebab house (kebapçı
food are often in five-star hotels. or ocakbaşı). Along with grilled
Beyoğlu district has the meats, most kebab houses Spectacular views of the Old City from
liveliest restaurants, cafés and serve lahmacun, a very thin 360 East (see p204)
fast-food eateries, particularly dough base with minced meat,
around İstiklal Caddesi (see pp104– onions and tomato sauce on (balık lokantası). The best ones
105), which cater to a young top. Cheaper restaurants also are located on the shores of
crowd. Many Sultanahmet serve pide, a flattened bread base, the Bosphorus (see pp204–206)
restaurants cater primarily to served with toppings like eggs, and in Kumkapı, on the Sea of
tourists, while those in the cheese or lamb. There are also a Marmara, which is like one
neighbouring districts of Sirkeci, few specialist pide restaurants. large open-air restaurant in
Eminönü and Beyazıt are full of If you have had too much to summer. A typical fish
inexpensive restaurants serving drink you may welcome tripe restaurant will offer a large
the local population. There are soup (işkembe), a Turkish cure variety of mezes (see p194)
also some stylish restaurants with for hangovers, before going to before you order your main
modern decor in these areas. bed. İşkembe restaurants stay course from the day’s catch.
Further afield, in areas such as open until early morning. The Skipjack tuna (palamut), fresh
Fatih, Fener, Balat and Eyüp, there atmosphere is always informal sardines (sardalya) and sea bass
are plenty of cheap restaurants, and lively in Istanbul’s (levrek) are the most popular
cafés and bakeries. innumerable fish restaurants fish. Also popular are Black Sea
hamsi (a kind of anchovy),
istavrit (bluefin) and mezgit
(whiting). As fish become
scarcer and more expensive,
farmed fish has become more
widely accepted, particularly
çipura (sea bream). Fish is
served fried or grilled and often
accompanied by a large salad
and a bottle of rakı (see p195).
Most fish restaurants in busy
areas will not accept
reservations, but if you cannot
Beautiful hanging garden at Nar Lokanta (see p199), Bazaar Quarter find a table at one restaurant,
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 191
floors, and ground-floor

restaurants often have a step
leading up to the entrance. Lifts
are not common outside of large
hotels and offices. Many restau-
rants offer options for vegetarians.
In local Turkish restaurants
in conservative parts of the city
and outside Istanbul, women
should look for the aile salonu
sign. This denotes an area set
aside for women and children;
single women will be unwelcome
in the main restaurant.
Turks are proud of their
Elegant dining area at Park Şamdan (see p203) hospitality and service. Upmarket
restaurants offer good service,
you will probably find one at about 11am to 11pm, while fish but the same standards may not
another nearby. restaurants serve all day and always apply in cheaper places.
International culinary exper- stay open later. International
iences are encouraging local restaurants have strict opening
chefs to be more adventurous; hours, usually from noon to Service and Paying
the best are crafting superb, 3:30pm and 7:30pm to The major credit cards are
original food in a beautiful midnight. Meyhanes will be widely accepted, except
ambience. Wealthier Turks open from 7pm until well in the cheaper restaurants,
frequent the foreign restaurants after midnight. Most kebab houses, local
found in a number of neighbour- restaurants are open bufés (snack kiosks)
hoods, while global icons such daily, but some are and some lokantas.
as Starbucks and Gloria Jean’s are closed only on Sunday. Restaurants usually
becoming part of everyday life. During Ramazan (see display the credit card
A meyhane is a tavern, serving p49), when Muslims sign if they accept this
alcohol and a variety of mezes. fast from sunrise to form of payment.
These are more casual and attract sunset, many res- Value-added tax
a younger crowd. The accent is taurants are closed. (KDV in Turkish) is
mostly on drinking; there is usually Some only shut during always included.
fasil music and musicians who daylight hours and A selection of pastries Some places add
play atmospheric tunes on a then serve special 10 per cent for service
zither or drum. Ramazan meals, while others, while others leave it to the
especially in religious areas such discretion of the customer.
as Fatih and Eyüp, close for the
Opening Hours whole month. In sightseeing
Turks eat lunch between 12:30 areas, however, there is always Recommended
and 2pm, and dinner around one open somewhere. Restaurants
8pm. Ordinary restaurants and All the restaurants on the pages
kebab houses are open from that follow have been carefully
What to Expect selected to offer a cross-section
Since July 2009, smoking of the best options from across
has been banned in all the city – from the smartest and
indoor establishments, most upmarket establishments
although illegal lighting to the best budget food eateries.
up is not unheard of. Restaurants and cafés in Istanbul
Cheaper restaurants offer a wide range of cuisines,
and kebab houses often including Ottoman, fusion, and
do not serve alcohol. international dishes, but you
Others cannot because should not miss the traditional
they are near a mosque Turkish restaurants (lokanta,
or religious site. When meyhane) either. The DK Choice
alcohol is served, it can restaurants are extra special.
be expensive. These are the truly exceptional
Accessibility for establishments – those that boast
wheelchairs is somewhat superb cuisine, presentation,
hit or miss. Restaurants service and location, or just
Delicious fried and grilled mackerel sold on the are often multilevel with offer a unique and unmissable
Eminönü quayside (see p208) family rooms on the upper experience.
The Flavours of Istanbul

The wide range of climatic zones across Turkey make it one
of the few countries that can grow all its own food. Tea is
cultivated in the mountains by the Black Sea and bananas
in the sultry south. The Anatolian plain in between is criss-
crossed by wheat fields and rich grasslands on which cattle
graze, providing top-quality meat and dairy produce. Fruit
and vegetables flourish everywhere and fish abound in
the salty seas that lap the nation’s shores. Freshness is the
hallmark of this varied cuisine, drawn from the many cultures
that were subject to nearly five centuries of Ottoman rule. Nar (pomegranates)
to prepare. Turkey’s most famous introduced the occasional fiery

culinary staples, yogurt, flatbread blash of chilli. Its use was once
and the kebab, originate in an essential aid to preserving
this region. meat in the searing desert heat.
The common use of fruits,
such as pomegranates, figs
and apricots, in Turkish savoury Ottoman Cuisine
dishes stems from Persian influ- It was in the vast, steamy
ences, filtering down with the kitchens of the Topkapı
tribes that came from the north Palace that a repertoire of
of the steppe. From the Middle mouthwatering dishes to
East, further south, nomads rival the celebrated cuisines
A stall in the Spice Bazaar, one of Lamb şiş kebab Stuffed aubergine
Istanbul’s oldest markets Chicken şiş kebab Prawn (shrimp) kebab
(eggplant)
Lamb cutlet
The Anatolian Steppe Spicy tomato sauce
Döner kebab
The steppe stretching from
Central Asia to Anatolia is one of
the oldest inhabited regions of
the world. Dishes from this vast
area are as varied as the different
ethnic groups that live here, but
are mainly traditional and simple.
To fit in with a mainly nomadic
way of life, food generally
needed to be quick and easy A selection of typical Turkish kebabs
Local Dishes and Specialities

Because of Istanbul’s proximity to the sea, fresh fish
is readily available and is a key ingredient on
the city’s menus. Since ancient times
the Bosphorus has been known for
its excellent fishing. In the winter
months especially, there is a bounty
of oil-rich fish, such as bluefish, bream,
bonito tuna, sea bass, mullet and
mackerel, waiting to be reeled in. From
the Black Sea, Istanbul is also provided
Turkish Delight with a steady supply of juicy mussels
and hamsi, a type of anchovy. Sweets
are also popular and eaten throughout the day, not just after a Midye dolması Mussels
meal. They are sold in shops, on stalls and by street vendors. are stuffed with a spiced rice
Istanbul is renowned for its baklava (sweet pastries coated with mixture, steamed and served
syrup and often filled with nuts). with a squirt of lemon juice.
Bazaar Culture
A visit to the market
that spills out around
Istanbul’s Spice Bazaar
(see p90) is an absolute
must. A cornucopia of fine
ingredients is brought here
daily from farms that
surround the city. Apricots,
watermelons, cherries and
figs sit alongside staple
vegetables, such as peppers,
onions, aubergines and
tomatoes. Fine cuts of
lamb and beef, cheeses,
A splendid array of fruit, vegetables and dried goods in the Spice Bazaar pickles, herbs, spices and
honey-drenched pastries
of France and China grew up. in many of Istanbul’s restaurants, and puddings are also
At the height of the Ottoman where dishes such as karnıyarık on offer.
Empire, in the 16th and 17th (halved aubergines (eggplant)
centuries, legions of kitchen stuffed with minced lamb, pine KNOW YOUR FISH
staff slaved away on the sultan’s nuts and dried fruit) and hünkar
The profusion of different species
behalf. Court cooks usually beğendili köfte (meatballs served
in the waters around Istanbul
specialized in particular dishes. with a smooth purée of
makes the city a paradise for
Some prepared soups, while smoked aubergine and cheese)
fish-lovers:
others just grilled meats or fish, grace the menu.
or dreamed up combinations Barbunya Red mullet
of vegetables, or baked breads, Çipura Sea bream
or made puddings and Dilbalığı Sole
sherberts. As Ottoman rule Hamsi Anchovy
expanded to North Africa, the Kalamar Squid
Balkans and parts of southern
Kalkan Turbot
Russia, influences from these
far-flung places crept into Kefal Grey mullet
the Turkish imperial kitchens. Kılıç Swordfish
Complex dishes of finely Levrek Sea bass
seasoned stuffed meats and Lüfer Bluefish
vegetables, often with such
Midye Mussels
fanciful names as “lady’s lips”,
“Vizier’s fingers” and the Palamut Bonito tuna
“fainting Imam”, appeared. Fresh catch from the Bosphorus on a fish Uskumru Mackerel
This imperial tradition lives on stall in Karaköy
İmam bayıldı Aubergines, Levrek pilakisi This stew is Kadayıf Rounds of shredded
stuffed with tomatoes, garlic made by simmering sea bass filo pastry are stuffed with nuts
and onions, are baked in the fillets with potatoes, carrots, and doused with honey to
oven until meltingly soft. tomatoes, onions and garlic. make a sumptuous dessert.
Mezes
As in many southern European countries, a Turkish meal
begins with a selection of appetizing starters known as
mezes, which are placed in the middle of the table for
sharing. In a basic meyhane restaurant, you may be offered
olives, cheese and slices of melon, but in a grander
establishment the choice will be enormous. Mainly
consisting of cold vegetables and salads of various kinds,
mezes can also include a number of hot dishes, such as
börek (cheese pastries), fried mussels and squid. Mezes are
eaten with bread and traditionally washed down with rakı
(a clear, anise-flavoured spirit). Haydarı (strained yogurt
and garlic dip) with bread
Zeytinyağlı enginar
(artichokes) Çoban salatası
(tomato, red
onion and
cucumber salad)
Ayşe fasulye
(green beans
with tomato
sauce)
Kavun with beyaz peynir (melon

with a creamy, feta-like cheese)
Yaprak dolması (stuffed

vine leaves) Tarama (a dip made with cod’s
roe, garlic and olive oil)
Turkish Breads
Bread is the cornerstone of every meal in Turkey and comes in a
wide range of shapes and styles. Besides ekmek (crusty white loaves)
the other most common types of Turkish bread are yufka, lavaş
and pide. Yufka, the typical bread of nomadic communities, is
made from thinly rolled sheets of dough cooked on a griddle.
Lavaş is the urban equivalent of yufka and is usually served as a
starter in kebab restaurants. Pide is a semi-leavened flatbread,
often served with mezes and kebabs in restaurants. It consists of a
flattened circle or oval of dough, sometimes brushed with beaten
egg and sprinkled with sesame seeds or black cumin, and then
baked in an oven. It is a staple during many religious festivals. In
the month of Ramazan, no meal is considered complete without
pide. Another popular bread is simit, a crisp, ring-shaped savoury
loaf that comes covered in sesame seeds. A delivery of freshly baked simit loaves
What to Drink in Istanbul

The most common drink in Istanbul is tea (çay), which is
normally served black in small, tulip-shaped glasses. It is offered
to you wherever you go: in shops and bazaars, and even in
banks and offices. Breakfast is usually accompanied by tea,
whereas small cups of strong Turkish coffee (kahve) are drunk
mid-morning and also at the end of meals. Cold drinks include
a variety of fresh fruit juices, such as orange and cherry, and
refreshing syrup-based sherbets. Although Turkey does produce
its own wine and beer, the most popular alcoholic drink in Fruit juice seller
Istanbul is rakı, which is usually served to accompany mezes.
Soft Drinks Alcoholic Drinks

Bottled mineral The national alcoholic drink in Turkey is rakı –
water (su) is sold “lion’s milk” – a clear, anise-flavoured spirit, which
in corner shops and turns cloudy when water is added. It is drunk
served in restaurants with fish and mezes. The Turkish wine industry
everywhere. If you are produces some good reds and whites, served
feeling adventurous, in many restaurants. Doluca and Kavaklıdere are
you may like to try a two of the leading brands. Foreign and imported
glass of ayran, salty wines are widely available at high prices. Turkey’s
liquid yogurt. Boza, own Efes Pilsen beer is widely sold. Note that
made from bulgur Vişne suyu Ayran alcohol is not served in most of the cheaper
wheat, is another local restaurants and kebab houses.
drink to sample (see p94). There is always a variety
of refreshing fruit and vegetable juices available.
They include cherry juice (vişne suyu), turnip
juice (şalgam suyu) and şıra, a juice made from
fermented grapes.
Coffee and Tea

Turkish coffee (kahve) is dark
and strong and is ordered
according to the amount of sugar
required: az (little), orta (medium),
or çok (a lot). You may have to ask for
it especially, as some restaurants
may give you instant coffee. The
ubiquitous drink is tea (çay). It is
served with sugar but
without milk, and in a White wine
small, tulip-shaped glass. Rakı Beer Red wine
Apple tea (elma çay), is
the popular alternative
to traditional Turkish tea,
but there are also Turkish coffee
linden (ıhlamur), is a very strong drink
rosehip (kuşburnu) and an acquired taste
Traditional samovar for tea and mint (nane) teas. for most people.
Sahlep is a
hot, winter
drink made
from powdered
Apple tea Linden tea orchid root.
Where to Eat and Drink

Can Oba trained abroad before Price Guide
Seraglio Point returning to set up his own place. Price categories include a three-course
Hocapaşa Pidecisi ¨ While there are few tables at his meal for one, and all unavoidable extras
including service and tax.
Turkish Pizza Map 5 D2 restaurant, the imaginatively
Hocapaşa Sok 19, Sirkeci prepared dishes make sure ¨ under ¨40
Tel (0212) 512 09 90 there’s always a crowd here. ¨¨ ¨40– ¨90
¨¨¨ over ¨90
Pide, best described as a long,
chewy Turkish pizza, is the
speciality. The one with mince is DK Choice Karakol ¨¨¨
deliciously spicy, and can come Imbat ¨¨ Turkish Fusion Map 5 F3
with or without an egg in it. Aegean Map 5 D2 Inside Topkapı Palace grounds,
Hudavendigar Cad 34, next to Haghia Eirene
Paşazade ¨ Sirkeci Tel (0212) 514 94 94
Ottoman Map 5 D2 Tel (0212) 520 71 91 Most of the seating here is
İbn-i Kemal Sok 5A, Sirkeci Popular Aegean resrestaurant
taurant outside, but in winter, patrons
Tel (0212) 513 37 57 located at the top of the Orient can sit in the recently restored
Many restaurants purport to serve Express Hotel. Reserving ahead sentry post building.
Ottoman cuisine, but Paşazade is almost essential, and is the
doesn’t take this duty lightly. The best way to secure a coveted Konyalı ¨¨¨
menu boasts hard-to-find dishes Bosphorus-facing spot on the Kebab
such as mahmudiye, a fruity terrace. The succulent lamb is Inside Topkapı Palace Map 3 F3
chicken dish. Good value for highly rated, but the menu also Tel (0212) 513 96 96
money; attentive service. caters to vegetarians without This upmarket restaurant
compro mising on originality.
compromising has many branches through
Şehzade Erzurum Cağ Kebabı ¨ Attentive staff. the city. The Topkapı Palace
Kebab Map 5 D1 branch offers breathtaking
Hocapaşa Sok 3A, Sirkeci views of the Bosphorus,
Tel (0212) 520 33 61 Neyzade ¨¨ although guests have to pay
This unassuming place serves up Meyhane Map 5 E2 the Topkapı Palace entry fee
a delicious alternative to the döner Taya Hatun Sokak 5, Sirkeci to eat here.
kebab, which hails from the east- Tel (0212) 528 43 44
ern city of Erzurum. The meat is Nestled outside the wall of Olive Restaurant ¨¨¨
laterally skewered before being the Topkapı Palace, Neyzade’s Ottoman Map 5 E2
served. Try the tasty marinated carefully chosen menu showcases Hotel Yaşmak Sultan (top floor) ,18
lamb. different regional Turkish cuisines. Ebusuud Cad
Instead of trying to specialize in Tel (0212) 528 13 47
Café Mese ¨¨ all of them, the restaurant picks Elegant Ottoman-inspired
Café Map 5 E2 a few dishes – mezes, soups and cuisine, along with sweeping
Hudavendigar Cad 27 , Sirkeci kebabs – and does them well. views of the Haghia Sofia,
Tel (0212) 519 18 00 Topkapı Palace and the
Pastas, desserts, coffees and pints Orient Express Restaurant ¨¨ Bosphorus from the terrace.
of beer (hard to find in the Old Traditional Map 5 E1
City) are popular choices at this Inside Sirkeci Train Station Sarnıç ¨¨¨
friendly café. Close to the train Tel (0212) 522 22 80 Meyhane Map 5 F3
station and tram lines. Housed in the terminus building Soğukçeşme Sok 38 ,
of the Orient Express, the station Sultanahmet
Can Oba ¨¨ and restaurant are a fading Tel (0212) 512 42 91
Turkish Fusion Map 5 D1 monument to a gentler age. Dramatically set in a millennium-
Hocapaşa Sok 10, Sirkeci Not the best value place, but old Byzantine cistern from which
Tel (0212) 522 12 15 with tables spilling out onto the it takes its name. Enjoy an evening
A relative newcomer to the station platform, its atmospheric meal in its brick and wrought-
Sirkeci restaurant scene, chef setting can’t be beaten. iron, candlelit interior.
Gently lit interiors at Café Mese, Seraglio Point

Sultanahmet DK Choice
Doy Doy ¨ Amedros ¨¨
Traditional Map 5 D5 Turkish Fusion Map 5 D3
Sifa Hamami Sok 13 Hoca Rüstem Sok 7
Tel (0212) 517 15 88 Tel (0212) 522 83 56
Doy Doy is a predictable and Reliable restaurant located up
reasonable place for the uniniti- an atmospheric alley, Amedros
ated to try Turkish cuisine. It’s is known for its tasteful interiors,
worth hiking up four flights of reasonable prices and attentive
stairs for the view from the terrace. service. Try the Testi kebab, an
Anatolian stew cooked in a
Köfteci Ramiz ¨ sealed clay pot.
Kebab Map 5 D3
Bab-ı Ali Cad, Himaye-i Ekfal
Sok 17, Fatih Dubb ¨¨
Tel (0212) 527 13 40 Indian Map 5 E3
Part of a chain specializing in Incili Çavuş Sok 10
meatballs. Clean and predictable Tel (0212) 513 73 08
with no alcohol – try the ayran. Popular Indian restaurant. The Intimate dining at the well-reviewed Amedros
atmosphere here is jolly – dancing
lessons are given on Saturdays. Karışma Sen Meyhane ¨¨¨
DK Choice Meyhane Map 2 A5
Tarihi Sultanahmet Fuego Restaurant ¨¨ Kennedy Cad 28–30 , Sahil Yolu,
Köftecisi ¨ Kebab Map 5 E3 Cankurtaran
Traditional Map 5 E4 Incili Cavus Sok 15A Tel (0212) 458 00 81
Divanyolu Cad 12 Tel (0212) 531 36 97 A proper historical Istanbul
Tel (0212) 520 05 66 A deceptively named restaurant meyhane, which started life as
Along a strip of imitators, this serving not Spanish cuisine, but a nightclub in the 1930s. Serves
is the most original. The köfte, Turkish and Kurdish specials, a variety of mezes and fish as well
(grilled meatballs) have backed by a well-stocked bar. as desserts.
many famous admirers, whose
comments are framed upon Port Shield ¨¨ Khorasani ¨¨¨
the walls. Eat your köftee with Pub Map 5 E4 Kebab Map 5 D3
piyaz, or white bean salad, and Yerebatan Cad 13 Ticarethane Sok 39/41
follow up with the semolina Tel (0212) 527 09 31 Tel (0212) 519 59 59
halva des sert. The menu may
dessert. It would be hard to claim that Visitors won’t find bargain prices
not be diverse, but whatever people come here for the standard at Khorasani, but they are serious
they do, they do well. international cuisine on offer – about their kebabs. Flavours of
most come for the cold beer, and southeast Turkey and an array of
the many screenings of football. spicy starters; try the slow-cooked
Ahırkapı Balıkçısı ¨¨ pistachio encrusted kebab.
Meyhane Map 5 F5 Balıkçı Sabahattin ¨¨¨
Keresteci Hakkı Sok 46 Seafood Map 5 F4 Mozaik Restaurant ¨¨¨
Tel (0212) 518 49 88 Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sok 1, Turkish Map 5 E3
A tiny neighbourhood fish Cankurtaran, Eminönü Incili Cavus Sok 1
restaurant, which caters to locals Tel (0212) 458 18 24 Tel (0212) 512 41 77
and tourists alike. Be sure to save Housed in a restored wooden Plenty of intimate corners in
room for the delicious baked mansion near the Armada hotel, this converted old house. Try the
halva dessert. this old Istanbul favourite special- meze platter for starters, or the
izes in seafood. In summer, diners oven-baked seafood.
Albura Kathisma ¨¨ spill out onto the pretty garden.
Kebab Map 5 F5 Patara Restaurant ¨¨¨
Akbıyık Cad 26 Faros Hotel Restaurant ¨¨¨ Meyhane Map 4 A5
Tel (0212) 517 90 31 International Map 5 D3 Samsa Sok 13, Kumkapı
Waiters here seem less pushy Divanyolu Cad 76, Sultanahmet Tel (0212) 517 99 19
than in other restaurants which Tel (0212) 518 83 88 A number of set menu options
makes for a relaxing meal. Located on the top floor of the save guests from the hassle of
A good range of meat and Faros hotel, this restaurant has a choosing dishes. Book ahead and
vegetarian dishes caters to variety of international cuisine with they will also arrange a free pick-
all palates and preferences. some Turkish-influenced dishes. up from your hotel.
Aloran Café & Restaurant ¨¨ Giritli Restaurant ¨¨¨ Seasons Restaurant ¨¨¨
Traditional Map 5 F4 Meyhane Map 5 F5 International Map 5 F4
Adliye Sok 11, Cankurtaran Keresteci Hakkı Sok, Cankurtaran Four Seasons Hotel, 1 Tevkifhane
Tel (0212) 458 85 28 Tel (0212) 458 22 70 Sok, Cankurturan
Try an array of Turkish mezes Cretan restaurant tucked away Tel (0212) 402 30 00
and meats at this warm and in a charming courtyard down The restaurant at this converted
welcoming restaurant. an alley. The only option here is late Ottoman prison is a popular
Interesting flavours, generous a good value all-you-can-eat destination for high-end dining.
portions and reasonable menu, which includes limitless Enjoy the all-you-can-eat
prices. Ask the staff for their alcoholic drinks and about 20 spread, to more traditional
recommendations kinds of meze. Book ahead. Turkish choices.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 190
Sultanahmet Fish House ¨¨¨ when on the go. Keeps bazaar Doyuran Lokantası ¨
Meyhane Map 3 E4 hours, so closes by early evening. Lokanta Map 4 A5
Prof K Ismail Gürkan Cad 14 Ördekli Bakkal Sok 10,
Tel (0212) 527 44 45 Bizim Mutfak ¨ Kumkapı
Good choice for seafood, with Lokanta Map 5 D1 Tel (0212) 458 26 37
helpful and knowledgeable staff. Şeyhülislam Hayri Efendi Eat like the locals and skip
Seasonal specials like salt-baked Cad 2 , Eminönü tourist fare in favour of the daily
sea bass follow a range of mezes. Tel (0212) 522 78 46 specials at Doyuran. Far from
There are some kebabs too. A modern dining room tucked fancy, the home-made meals
away behind the New Mosque. are filling and won’t set you
Tria Elegance ¨¨¨ Local workers flock here at back by very much.
Kebab Map 5 F4 lunchtime for the variety of
Akbıyık Cad 11 soups, desserts, meat and Fes Café ¨
Tel (0212) 518 45 18 vegetable choices. Fantastic Café Map 4 C3
Pleasant restaurant where dishes value, lots of seating available. Ali Baba Türbe Sok 25, Nuruosmaniye
like sea-bass stew or lamb shank Self service. Tel (0212) 526 30 70
with saffron are served against a Glamorous café located in a
breathtaking rooftop view. Borsa ¨ peaceful sidestreet just off the
Traditional Map 5 D1 bazaar. Fruit sherbets, coffees,
Vonalı Celal ¨¨¨ Yalı Köşkü Han 60–62, Yalı Köşkü baklava and modest lunch
Meyhane Map 5 F5 Cad, Eminönü options are served in cool,
Kennedy Cad 40, Sahil Yolu, Tel (0212) 511 80 79 retro surroundings. Relaxed
Cankurtaran A clean, efficient family eatery and ambient atmosphere.
Tel (0212) 516 18 93 that serves breakfast, lunch and
The Vonalı Celal stands out among dinner, and is never without a Gaziantep Burç Ocakbaşı ¨
a string of restaurants looking out throng of people. Convenient Kebab Map 4 B3
over the Marmara. It serves special pit-stop for sightseers along the Parçacilar Sok 12, Kapalıçarşı
Black Sea dishes along with more Eminönü shoreline. Tel (0212) 527 15 16
ubiquitous fish grills, but the real This narrow bazaar restaurant
passion here is for pickles, which Can Restaurant ¨ serves meat dishes from the
form the centrepiece of the menu. Lokanta Map 4 B3 southeastern region of Turkey,
Sorguclu Han No 19–24, which is famed for its flavourful
Kapalıçarşı kebabs. Stuffed and dried vege-
Tel (0212) 511 91 53 tables are a delicious alternative
Bazaar Quarter An out-of-the-way lunch for vegetarian guests.
Aslan Restaurant ¨ spot where both bazaar workers
Lokanta Map 4 C3 and shoppers come to get Imren Lokantasi ¨
Vezirhan Cad 66, Çemberlitaş their fill of hearty home-style Lokanta Map 4 B5
Tel (0212) 513 76 10 cooking. The meat broth Kadırga Liman Cad 81 Kumkapı,
A reliable esnaf or tradesman’s thickened with egg is worth Fatih
restaurant, serving the best in the trip. Tel (0212) 638 11 96
Turkish comfort food. Vegetable Utilitarian, inexpensive and very
dishes and soups form the core Çiğ Köfteci Ali Usta ¨ popular for its tasty and plentiful
of the menu, but there are meat Café Map 5 D1 meals. Pick from a series of daily
options on offer as well. Mimar Vedat Sok, in the alley behind specials, but come early in the
Kral Kokoreç day for the widest selection.
Aynen Dürüm ¨ Join the queue for a portion Don’t be deterred by its
Kebab Map 4 C3 of cig kofte (balls of a spicy busy atmosphere, the service
Muhafazacılar Sok 29, near gate 20 mixture of raw meat and tomato is fast.
of the Grand Bazaar paste). Get yours wrapped in
Tel (0212) 527 47 28 crispy lettuce or in a tub to Kahve Dünyası ¨
Useful bolt-hole for tasty kebabs take away. Café Map 4 C3
Kızılhan Sok 18, Eminönü
Tel (0212) 520 02 04
Turkey's answer to Starbucks is
a good place to grab a coffee –
whether Turkish or the more
familiar latte. It always comes
with a sweet of some kind,
showing off the other speciality
of this chain: chocolate.
Kardeşler Pilav Evi ¨

Café Map 4 C1
Tahtakale Cad 48
Tel (0212) 514 63 62
A classic tradesman’s lunch spot
with a humble menu consisting
of chicken, rice and chickpeas.
Wash everything down with
ayran (a salty yogurt drink).
Don’t come after dark though –
Glass and tile decor of Fes Café in the Bazaar Quarter things pack up at 5:30pm.
Kral Kokoreç ¨
Kebab Map 5 D1
Büyük Postane Cad 54, Sirkeci
Tel (0212) 526 71 69
Serving only sandwiches of spicy
but delicious grilled lamb innards,
this place is not for the faint-
hearted. However, those who try
it will find themselves wooed by
Istanbul’s favourite hangover cure.
Nuruosmaniye Köftecisi ¨
Kebab Map 4 C3
Vezirhan Cad 73, Çemberlitaş
Tel (0212) 526 71 69
Meatballs and beans are the
staples here. Cheap, delicious
and fulfilling – a great place to
refuel on the way to the bazaar.
Ocakbası Dürüm Ve
Kebap Salonu ¨
Kebab Map 5 D1
Hasırcılar Cad 62, Eminönü
Tel (0212) 526 32 29 Buffet spread at Nar Lokanta, Bazaar Quarter
Chicken or lamb grills are almost
all there is at this pitstop near the Hamdi ¨¨¨
Spice Bazaar. Reasonable and del- Kebab Map 4 C1 Beyoğlu
icious lunch options served on a Kalçin Sok 17, Rüstem Paşa, Fatih Café Grand Boulevard ¨
platter or in a wrap. Tel (0212) 528 03 90 Café Map 7 D4
A multi-storey kebab emporium Hazzo Pulo Pasajı, 116 Hengecidi Sok,
Şark Kahvesi ¨ serving up meats from the Istiklal Cad
Café Map 4 B2 spiced to the pistachioed to Tel (0212) 293 34 46
Yağlıkçılar Cad 134, Kapalıçarşı, the aubergined. Book ahead Take a rest from sightseeing in
Beyazıt for a seat that looks out across this relaxing cafe in the pleasant
Tel (0212) 512 11 44 the confluence of the Golden courtyard of Hazzo Pulo Pasaj.
All roads in the bazaar lead to Şark Horn and the Bosphorus. It is the perfect spot to drink tea
Kahvesi, or so it seems. Enjoy coffee and play backgammon.
and a game of backgammon.
DK Choice Café Privato ¨
Siirt Şeref Büryan ¨ Nar Lokanta ¨¨¨ Breakfast Map 6 5C
Traditional Map 2 A2 Lokanta Map 4 C3 Tımarcı Sok 3B, Galata
Itfaiye Cad 4, Husambey Mah, Fatih Top floor of Armaggan store, 65 Tel (0212) 293 20 55
Tel (0212) 635 80 85 Nuruosmaniye Cad, 5th Floor A full-spread breakfast served
A good choice among a strip of Tel (0212) 522 28 00 till noon and home-cooked food
restaurants purveying delicious A special choice in the hit- thereafter. Delicious Georgian
tandoori lamb from the Kurdish and-miss culinary fringes of pancakes are paired with organic
southeastern region. Perde pilavı, the bazaar. Nar makes a point jams and cheeses.
a chicken and almond rice dish, of only using seasonal
and mumbar, a kind of stuffed ingredients, and from these Datlı Maya ¨
sausage, are some other options. they manage to fashion 50 daily Lokanta Map 7 E5
dishes. One option inside this Türkgücü Cad 59/A, Cihangir
Darüzziyafe ¨¨ glamorous tiled dining room is Tel (0212) 292 90 56
Kebab Map 2 B3 an open buffet of vegetable The latest project from eccentric
Şifahane Sok 6 , Süleymaniye specials, made using their own and exuberant chef, Dilara Erbay.
Tel (0212) 511 84 14 brand of pressed olive oil. Has Housed in an old simit factory,
Located in the grounds of the an extensive list of Turkish it has a menu of creatively
recently restored Süleymaniye wines too. reimagined Turkish street-
Mosque, this spacious, airy food staples – dürüm wraps,
restaurant caters mostly to tour which diners may encounter
groups, but is a pretty setting. Surplus ¨¨¨ elsewhere, but not the
Ottoman Map 3 D2 vegan version.
Havuzlu ¨¨ Zindan Han, Ragıp Gümüş Pala
Lokanta Map 4 B3 Cad 54 Durumzade ¨
Gani Çelebi Sok 3 , inside the Tel (0212) 520 10 02 Kebab
Grand Bazaar Overlooking the Golden Horn Kamer Hatun Cad 26/A
Tel (0212) 527 33 46 and Galata Bridge, this top-floor Tel (0212) 249 01 47
Because of its size, Havuzlu is a restaurant offers gorgeous views, Considered to be among the
rare dining option in the Grand excellent food and superior best in Beyoğlu, the kebabs here
Bazaar. It does not offer the service. If you’re feeling are cooked over charcoal and
best value but is nevertheless a particularly hungry (or if you served with tasty flatbreads
pleasant sit-down restaurant fancy a challenge) order the rubbed with a mix of spices.
in the centre of the bazaar. enormous mixed grill. Expect long queues.
this inexpensive restaurant is

popular with locals and tourists
alike. Get your food on the
skewer or wrapped up with
onions and greens. There is also
chicken and meat and sweet
cheesy kunefe for dessert.
Culinary Institute ¨¨
Turkish Fusion Map 7 D4
Meşrutiyet Cad 59, Asmalı Mescit
Tel (0212) 251 22 14
The dining room of a cookery
school, the Culinary Institute
serves a full monthly menu. Some
of the interesting twists on Turkish
favourites to be found here are
persimmon martini and dried
Modern dining area at the Culinary Institute in Beyoğlu aubergine stuffed kebab, as well
as a few international meals.
Fasuli ¨ Van Kahvaltı Evi ¨
Lokanta Map 7 E5 Breakfast Map 7 E5 Date ¨¨
Kılıçalipaşa Cad 6, Tophane Defterdar Yokuşu 52A, Cihangir Turkish Fusion Map 7 D5
Tel (0212) 243 65 80 Tel (0212) 293 64 37 Asmalı Mescit Mah, Ensiz Sok 1/B,
This Black Sea restaurant is famous Welcome to a cornucopia of Asmalı Mescit
for the beans after which it is regional specialities at this hip Tel (0212) 243 81 27
named. Corn bread, a cheesy Kurdish breakfast joint. It is so Some of the large shared tables
fondue called mihlama and popular that there can be a long may make it hard to indulge
healthy salads are executed wait to get in, but the management in the romantic tête-à-tête it
with aplomb. usually ply guests with tea till promises, but Date boasts a
they can be seated. number of cosy corners too.
Güllüoğlu Baklavacısı ¨ Try the samphire and scallops,
Café Map 3 E1 Yirmibir Kebab ¨ or the steak tartare.
Katlı Otopark Altı, Karaköy Kebab Map 7 D4
Tel (0212) 293 09 10 Hazzo Pulo Pasajı, off Istiklal Cad Fıccın ¨¨
Come to the baklava kings of Tel (0212) 244 38 73 Traditional Map 7 D4
Turkey for the best example of A tranquil historic arcade, perfect Kallavı Sok 7/1–13/1
this delectable filo dessert. to gorge on tender kebabs grilled Tel (0212) 293 37 86
over charcoal. Vegetarians can start Circassian-influenced meze place
İsmail Kebab ¨ with the delicious meze platter. that comprises a series of venues
Café Map 7 E4 lining the same street. A worthy
Hocazade Sok 7, Siraselviler Cad Ada Café & Bookstore ¨¨ dinner stop for small groups, away
Tel (0212) 252 34 87 International Map 7 D5 from the chaos of Nevizade.
Great place for cheap, crisp and Istiklal Cad 158 Don’t miss the cerkez tavuk, a
tasty Turkish lahmacun pizzas. Roll Tel (0212) 251 55 44 garlicky chicken walnut dish.
them up with lemon and salad. A bookshop-cum-café on Bey- The restaurant’s eponymous
oglu’s main pedestrian thorough- meat pie is also hard to match.
Mandabatmaz ¨ fare. Previously housing nothing Serves alcohol.
Café Map 7 E4 but books, some of the floor was
Olivia Gecidi, off Istiklal Cad cleared to accommodate diners, Fürreyya ¨¨
Sit inside or in the narrow alley who can be spotted perusing their Seafood Map 7 D5
outside to enjoy rich and aromatic purchases along with Italian- Serdari Ekrem Sok 2b
Turkish coffee, at a bargain price. influenced pastas and salads. Tel (0212) 252 48 53
Miniature restaurant that serves
Saray Muhallebicisi ¨ Ara Kafe ¨¨ excellent fish, a stone’s throw
Patisserie Map 7 D4 Café Map 7 D4 away from the Galata Tower.
Istiklal Cad 173 Tosbağa Sok 2, Tomtom Mah, Fish soups, wraps, and sandwiches
Tel (0212) 292 34 34 Galatasaray brimming with caramelized
Less a restaurant than a five-storey Tel (0212) 245 41 05 onions are great value. There
temple to dessert – 10 kinds of Housed in the building where are also more elaborate plates
baklava, milky puddings and cakes photographer Ara Guler has his of whitebait and shrimp to
are served here till 3 in the morn- studio, the decor as much as the choose from.
ing. Don’t miss the tavuk gogusu – photographs on the wall at Ara
a sweet milky pudding made Kafe are a slice of old-world Istanbul. Hacıbaba ¨¨
with boiled chicken. No alcohol is served, but Indian Traditional Map 7 E4
teas and home-made lemonades İstiklal Cad 49
Solera ¨ keep things rolling along. Tel (0212) 244 18 86
Wine Bar Map 7 D5 Conveniently situated restaurant
Yeni Çarsı Cad 44, Galatasaray Canım Ciğerim ¨¨ serving traditional Turkish food, if
Sample an array of Turkish meze, Kebab Map 7 D5 visitors don’t mind competing
and wash them down with a Istiklal Cad 162 with tour groups. Open buffet with
well-priced selection of domestic Tel (0212) 243 10 05 a big vegetarian selection, and
wines. Intimate atmosphere. Famous for its skewers of liver, kebab choices for the main courses.
Helvetia ¨¨ businesspeople in the area. Ca’d’oro Salt Restaurant

Lokanta Map 7 D5 Booking is essential. and Café ¨¨¨
Gen Yazgan Sok 12, Asmalı International Map 3 D1
Mescit Mah Kitchenette ¨¨ SALT Galata, Bankalar Cad
Tel (0212) 245 87 80 International Map 7 E3 Tel (0212) 243 82 92
A vegetarian restaurant without Tak-ı Zafer Cad 3, Gümüşsuyu Mah, Housed in the newly restored
being strictly vegetarian. A few Taksim Ottoman Bank building/SALT
choices for carnivores nestle Tel (0212) 292 68 62 gallery and research library.
alongside the day’s specials. Pick A reliable chain of brasseries. A purpose-built glass cube
from home-style vegetable gratins, Among their menus is one called at the back has a small café
followed by aromatic herbal teas. "fit-for-you’" which counts the menu, while an upstairs
calories in your salmon and restaurant offers cuisine
Jash ¨¨ vegetables en papillote. There is with Italian and Turkish
Meyhane Map 7 F4 also a kids’ menu as well as influences. Views of the
Cihangir Cad 9, Pürletaş Mah burgers, breakfasts and quesadillas Golden Horn.
Tel (0212) 244 30 42 – the objective is to cater to all
This intimate meyhane serves kinds of tastes. Cezayir ¨¨¨
Armenian mezes. But when the Turkish Fusion Map 7 E4
musicians move in with their Sensus ¨¨ Hayriye Cad 12, Galatasary
accordions, things can get a Wine Bar Map 6 C5 Tel (0212) 245 99 80
bit raucous! Büyükhendek Cad 5, Galata Housed in the restored Italian
Tel (0212) 245 56 57 Workers’ Association. This elegant
Packed with people on weekend building has a dining room on
DK Choice nights, this trendy basement wine the ground floor and a large
Kahve6 ¨¨ bar stocks a variety of Turkish garden downstairs.
Breakfast Map 7 E5 wines and a range of cheeses
Anahtar Sok 13, Cihangir to complement them. Çok Çok Thai ¨¨¨
Tel (0212) 293 08 49 International Map 7 D4
Kahve6’s name is a pun on the Zencefil ¨¨ Mesrutiyet Cad 51
word "breakfast", but the riffs Lokanta Map 7 E4 Tel (0212) 292 64 96
on the best meal of the day Kurabiye Sok 8, Şht Muhtar Mah Upmarket Thai restaurant with
don’t end there. From poached Tel (0212) 243 82 34 a hip ambience and friendly
eggs with a garlic sauce to the Pretty café in a glasshouse of staff. The honey-grilled salmon
life-saver simitt (a seeded bread a building. Mainly vegetarian with mung bean salad is
ring served with all the essential dishes on offer, with some non- a winner.
breakfast
Turkish break fast jams, cheeses vegetarian options. A calm oasis
and olives), this Cihangir hang- away from the noise and traffic Klemuri ¨¨¨
out serves creative versions of of Taksim’s busier end. Meyhane Map 7 E4
old favourites. Büyükparmakkapı, Tel Sok 2
5 Kat ¨¨¨ Tel (0212) 292 32 72
International Map 7 E4 A friendly Laz meyhane. Besides
Karaköy Lokantası ¨¨ Soğancı Sok 7, Cihangir serving dishes from Turkey’s
Lokanta Map 3 E1 Tel (0212) 293 37 74 lush Black Sea region, the
Kemankeş Cad 37 , Karakoy Popular Cihangir restaurant proprietors also curate cultural
Tel (0212) 292 44 55 and bar. The upbeat atmosphere shows from the east, and
A buzzing, stylish take on the and lovely views are more sometimes host guest cooks.
lokanta, spread across two storeys enticing than the food, although The menu indicates vegan or
with a beautifully tiled interior. the prix fixe menu is useful for vegetarian suitability, but there’s
A popular lunch choice for large parties. plenty to satisfy a meat-eater.
Meze by Lemon Tree ¨¨¨

Meyhane Map 7 D5
Meşrutiyet Cad 83/B, Beyoğlu
Tel (0212) 252 83 02
This stylish restaurant is a
contemporary take on the
traditional Turkish meyhane.
The main course is innovative
and the meze are excellent.
Sophisticated and well-run;
book in advance, especially
for weekend nights.
Mikla ¨¨¨
Turkish Fusion Map 7 D4
The Marmara Pera Hotel, Meşrutiyet
Cad 15
Tel (0212) 293 56 56
Enjoy amazing aerial views of
the city at this sprawling, chic
restaurant. The fixed menu is
reasonably priced and showcases
Vibrant and colourful tables at Çok Çok Thai, Beyoğlu updates of Turkish classics.
Pastel ¨
Café
Cevdetpasa Cad 123, Bebek
Tel (0212) 265 01 45
Recently opened by a returning
Turkish expat, Pastel is the answer
to the prayers of a generation of
sophisticated Turks brought up
on patisserie outside their shores,
and for whom only a genuine
opera cake or millefeuille will do.
Light lunches are also offered.
DK Choice
Pierre Loti Coffee House ¨
Café
Gümüşsuyu Balmumcu
Sok 1, Eyüp
Convivial atmosphere at the popular Pierre Loti Coffee House, Eyüp Tel (0212) 581 26 96
Named after the French
Münferit ¨¨¨ Yeni Lokanta ¨¨¨ novelist and naval officer, this
Turkish Fusion Map 7 D4 Meyhane Map 7 D5 modest tea spot is famous for
Yeni Çarşı Cad 19, Galatasaray Kumbaracı Yokuşu 66 its spectacular views of the
Tel (0212) 252 50 67 Tel (0212) 292 25 50 Golden Horn. Walk up the green
With an interior by local design An upmarket restaurant giving slope from Eyüp Mosque, or
team Autoban, this is a cool a modern twist to strong Turkish take the funicular to the top,
place to go to for both dinner flavours. Book well in advance, crossing over the cemetery
and after-dinner dancing. Indoor especially on weekends. en route to the hill. Either way,
and outdoor seating. on sunny days, the views are
worth the trip, even if the
Ninja ¨¨¨ rickety chairs and simple menu
Japanese Map 7 F4 Greater Istanbul wouldn’t be worth the detour
Inönü Cad 43, Gümüşsuyu Ali Haydar ¨ on their own.
Tel (0212) 245 35 95 Kebab Map 5 D5
One of the first Japanese Gümüşyüzük Sok 6, Samatya
restaurants in Turkey, Ninja serves Tel (0212) 584 21 62 Yanyalı Fehmi Lokantası ¨
Japanese grills as well as noodles This popular eatery features Traditional
and sushi. There are small booths in its own popular Turkish soap Yağlıkçı Ismail Sok 1, Kadıköy
to seat private parties. series, The Second Spring. Set in Tel (0216) 336 33 33
an old Armenian neighbourhood, The encyclopedic menu belies
Şehir Meyhanesi ¨¨¨ it has a hearty and well-priced this restaurant’s unconventional
Meyhane Map 7 D4 menu of kebab dishes. On appearance – but it showcases
Kartal Sok 3/A summer nights, find yourselves quality as well as breadth. The
Tel (0212) 249 61 60 being serenaded by Samatya meatballs are delicious, and the
Şehir Meyhanesi doesn’t feel street musicians. saffron rice makes an intriguing
the need to play up the nostalgic change from plain old pilav.
stereotype. The food, like Egg & Burger ¨ Save room for dessert.
marinated sea bass and grilled International
liver, is typical meyhane fare, but Nispetiye Cad, Yıldızçiçeği Akasya ¨¨
the crowd is hipper and younger. Sok 2/E, Etiler International
Tel (0212) 265 09 99 Nisan Cad 23, 49 Nizam Mah,
Sofyalı 9 ¨¨¨ A pastiche American burger Büyükada
Meyhane Map 7 D5 joint near Etiler’s Akmerkez Tel (0216) 382 10 50
Sofyalı Sok 9 shopping centre. Be sure to try Charming new restaurant
Tel (0212) 245 03 62 their house burger, which comes on the island of Buyukada;
Proper old-fashioned Istanbul with caramelized onions as well offers an Italian-influenced
meyhane. The only thing that’s as the eponymous egg. menu featuring meat, pastas
changed in 50 years is the rakı and gourmet dishes from around
list, which now also contains a Fenerbahçe Büfe ¨ the world.
wide selection of the newer Café
boutique blends. Rahmi M Koç Museum, Akdeniz Hatay Sofrası ¨¨
5 Hasköy Cad Traditional Map 1 B4
Yakup 2 ¨¨¨ Tel (0212) 369 66 00 Ahmediye Cad 44, Fatih
Meyhane Map 7 D5 There’s not much on the menu Tel (0212) 444 72 47
Asmalı Mescit Sok 35, Asmalı here besides tea with bread rings A wonderful showcase of
Mescit Mah and white cheese – but that’s not the Antakya region’s flavourful
Tel (0212) 249 29 25 the point. Part of industrialist cuisine. Try the sour minced
A well-esablished meyhane with Rahmi Koc’s eccentric collection, meat, chickpea and pomegranate
plenty of character, serving all this café is housed in a retired soup. Call ahead to sample the
the old favourites: rakı is Bosphorus ferry, and serves the special chicken, which is stuffed
consumed liberally here. kind of fare diners may have with rice and spices and then
Popular among locals. tasted on their way across. salt-baked.
Aziyade Restaurant ¨¨ Fener Köşkü ¨¨ city – this one is where the shoppers
Ottoman Meyhane Map 1 C1 of Nişantaşı go for pizzas.
Pierre Loti Tepesi, Eyüp Abdülezelpaşa Cad 311, Fener
Tel (0212) 497 13 13 Tel (0212) 621 90 25 Nusr-Et ¨¨
Magnificent views of the Located next to the city walls, Kebab
Golden Horn, an open buffet the decor reflects historical Bebek Mah, Manolya Sok 244–1,
breakfast, followed by lunch events. Drink rakı while enjoying Bebek
and dinner. It also hosts events a wide range of seafood dishes. Tel (0212) 265 45 02
such as meetings and Try the mouthwatering steaks
Ramazan dinners. Mabeyin ¨¨ and burgers or rarer cuts at this
Kebab popular steakhouse. Great for
Baccim ¨¨ Eski Kısıklı Cad 7 , Burhaniye, Kısıklı meat-lovers. Completing the menu
Ottoman Tel (0216) 422 55 80 are American-style desserts.
Aytar Cad 14 Levent, Beşiktaş Delicious kebab restaurant in the
Tel (0212) 283 87 44 hills above the Bosphorus Bridge. Paper Moon ¨¨
An intriguing restaurant near the Try the içli köfte, a stuffed bulgur Italian
financial district, specializing in a and meat dumpling, which Adnan Saygun Cad, Akmerkez,
kind of traditional Turkish stew. comes laced with pistachios. Residence Entrance No 224,
Garish, gold-leaf interior and Akmerkez AVM-Etiler
occasional live fasil music. Mahal ¨¨ Tel (0212) 282 16 16
Ottoman Perhaps more high-end than it
Beymen Brasserie ¨¨ Kanyon AVM, Büyükdere Cad 185, Kat has the right to be, this long-
International Map 7 F1 1 B/169, Levent established restaurant continues
Abdi İpekçi Cad 23/1, Nişantaşı Tel (0212) 353 51 53 to draw in a jet-setting crowd.
Tel (0212) 343 04 43 Ottoman fast food is the unlikely
This elegant restaurant has a staple of Mahal. The two branches Park Şamdan ¨¨
predominantly French menu. On are both good places to take International Map 7 F1
warm summer evenings, diners a break from your shopping Mim Kemal Öke Cad 18 ,
occupy the lovely outdoor tables. schedule. Be sure to try the Nişantaşı
börek, or traditional Turkish Tel (0212) 225 07 10
Brasserie La Brise ¨¨ cheese pastry. Continental as well as Turkish
French Map 7 F1 food in an upmarket bistro
Mim Kemal Öke Cad 11A, Nişantaşı Malta Köşkü ¨¨ environment. Set amid luxury
Tel (0212) 244 48 46 Kebab Map 9 D2 hotels and art galleries, this has
Authentically French menu with Yıldız Park, Beşiktaş long been a fashionable spot
wines to match. The price tags Tel (0212) 258 94 53 for the glitterati of Nişantaşı.
on the alcohol are very much Hidden away in the gardens of
Turkish, however, and are liable Yıldız Palace, this late Ottoman Zanzibar ¨¨
to make your eyes water more mansion houses a restaurant that Turkish Fusion
than the onions. serves brunches, lunches, dinners Cemil Topuzlu Cad 102–A,
and everything in between. Caddebostan
bread & butter ¨¨ Tel (0216) 385 64 30
Café Map 7 F1 Mezzaluna ¨¨ This is not a traditional Turkish
Mim Kemal Öke Cad 1/C,Nişantaşı Italian Map 7 F1 restaurant, because the plates
Tel (0212) 248 40 00 Mim Kemal Oke Cad 21, Nişantaşı here are not for sharing. But when
The smell of freshly baked breads Tel (0212) 231 31 42 your chocolate cheesecake or
and pastries tempts Nişantaşı's Istanbul’s original Italian restaurant grilled sea-bass is this delicious,
shoppers off the streets and into now has branches through the why would diners want to share?
bread & butter. Salads and sand-
wiches are also on offer.
Çiya Kebap ¨¨
Lokanta
48/B Güneşli Bahçe Sokak,
Caferağa, Kadiköy
Tel (0216) 336 30 13
Çiya is a humble trio of restaurants
along this Kadiköy street. They
serve no alcohol, but a recent
spate of press activity means that
the chef’s encyclopedic menu is
no longer the secret it once was.
Guests here can sample dishes
that don’t exist anywhere else.
Develi ¨¨
Kebab
Gümuş Yüzük Sok 7, Samatya
Tel (0212) 529 08 33
Renowned as one of Istanbul’s
best kebab restaurants, Develi
also serves a mouthwatering
baklava dessert. Alcohol is served. Outdoor tables at bread & butter, Greater Istanbul
Zinnet ¨¨
Traditional
Türk Dünyasi Kültür Evleri 6, Topkapı
Kültür Parkı
Tel (0212) 567 10 77
A fascinating place to try a mix
of cuisines from Uzbekistan,
Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and
surrounding regions. Located
outside the Theodisian Walls but
easy to reach by the T1 tram.
360 East ¨¨¨

Turkish Fusion
Albay Faik, Sozdener Cad 31, Kadikoy
Tel (0216) 542 43 50
The upmarket 360 chain has now
opened this expansive diner and The ultra modern and stylish 360 East, Greater Istanbul
nightclub in Istanbul’s Moda
neighbourhood. The boat ride Hünkar ¨¨¨ the Bosphorus Bridge, Ulus
over is part of the fun, as are the Lokanta Map 7 F1 29 was the closest Istanbul
views of the Old City. The prog- Mim Kemal Oke Cad 21, Nişantaşı dining got to haute and even
ramme of events includes inter- Tel (0212) 225 46 65 molecular cuisine for many
national DJs and musicians. Meat dishes like hunkar begendi years. The excellent sommelier
(meat chunks on aubergine mash) has put together a list that
Asitane ¨¨¨ are popular, but there are also a champions new Turkish grapes
Ottoman Map 1 B1 great number of vegetarian to match the wonderful fine-
Kariye Camii Sok 6 , EdirnekapI options to try at this upmarket dining experience.
Tel (0212) 635 79 97 tradesman’s restaurant.
This smart outfit offers a well-
researched menu of Ottoman Müzede Changa ¨¨¨
palace cuisine. Each dish comes Turkish Fusion The Bosphorus
with expansive notes. Combine a Sakıp Sabancı Cad 42, Emirgan Aşşk Kahve ¨
meal here with a trip to the beau- Tel (0212) 323 09 01 Café
tiful, mosaic-filled Kariye Museum. Inventive fusion cuisine in the Muallim Naci Cad 64/B,
leafy surroundings of the Sabanci Kurucesme, Besiktas
Beyti ¨¨¨ Museum. Try grilled octopus with Tel (0212) 265 47 34
Kebab black-olive paste and caper-berry Assk’s encyclopedic menu
Orman Sok 8, Florya sauce, or clove-flavoured Turkish manages to cover everything
Tel (0212) 663 29 90 meatballs. There is a shuttle from from breakfast to bellinis, and
A pilgrimage site for meat-lovers, the museum to the restaurant. all its dishes are infused with
as might be expected if the a sense of fun. On the Bosphorus
patron is the only living Turk to Sıçanlı Meyhane ¨¨¨ coast by Kurucesme, it has a
have a kebab named after him. Meyhane great location as well.
The portions are enormous, so Hurşit Efendi Sok 6, Çinaralti, Emirgan
a mixed grill might give a better Tel (0212) 277 63 03 Asude ¨
chance of trying a range of tastes. A notorious fasil venue: a Lokanta
restaurant offering not just mezes, Perihan Abla Sok 4 ,
Delicatessen ¨¨¨ but also singing and dancing – Kuzguncuk, Üsküdar
International Map 7 F1 and lots of it. This traditional Tel (0216) 334 44 14
Mim Kemal Oke Cad19/1, music form, often associated Crowded, family-run lunch spot
Nişantaşı, Harbiye with belly dancing, is a boisterous with a few revolving specials. On
Tel (0212) 225 06 04 affair, so don’t come expecting Monday, the speciality is home-
One of the Nişantaşı restaurant to sit quietly in a corner. made Turkish ravioli with a garlic
scene’s swankier venues: not yogurt sauce.
content with flogging fish salads Tahtasaray ¨¨¨
and burgers, it has even expanded Meyhane Çengelköy Börekçisi ¨
into a range of homeware. Good 4 Levent Meşeli Sok 25, Café
wine list. Dördüncü, Levent Çengelköy Cad 26 , Çengelköy
Tel (0212) 283 85 85 Tel (0216) 318 34 68
Divan Lokanta ¨¨¨ In the business district of This store serves tasty and filling
Turkish Fusion Map 7 F3 Levent, packed with devoted böreks, or savoury pastries, of all
Asker Ocağı Cad, 34367, No 1 Şişli patrons who come here for varieties. While it has expanded
Tel (0212) 315 55 00 the mezes and meats on offer. into other parts of the city, this
An Istanbul landmark for more Hot starters, like a thin hazelnut one is the original.
than 50 years. Having undergone and mince pizza, are part of
renovation, it now boasts a range Tahtasaray’s appeal. Çengelköy Kokoreççisi
of new restaurants, including this Mehmet Erözcan ¨
venue for high-end Turkish cuisine. Ulus 29 ¨¨¨ Café
Sensitively executed glass sculp- Turkish Fusion Halk Cad 15 , Çengelköy
tures by Robert du Grenier feature Yol Sok 1, Kuruçeşme Tel (0216) 318 76 56
throughout, while service is Tel (0212) 358 29 29 Delicious spot to sample kokoreç,
diligent and attentive. Set in the hills overlooking or grilled and spiced lamb’s
intestines. Get your portion stuffed İncir Altı ¨¨ Tike ¨¨

into a sandwich in this kitsch Meyhane Kebab Map 8 C4
family-run café. Arabacılar Sok 4, Beylerbeyi Beylerbeyi iskele Cad 19, Beylerbeyi
Tel (0216) 557 66 86 Tel (0216) 422 69 37
Kanaat ¨ Particularly charming, secret- Tike is justly famous for its kebabs.
Lokanta walled garden offering old- Multiple branches exist in the
Selmanipak Cad 9, Üsküdar fashioned Istanbul mezes. city; this one is a good excuse
Tel (0216) 341 54 44 to visit the quiet Bosphorus
A good choice in Üsküdar for its Kıyı Fish Restaurant ¨¨ neighbourhood of Beylerbeyi.
wide range of olive oil dishes and Meyhane
meat lunch specials. Cold yogurt Kefelikoy Cad 126, Tarabya Angel Salacak ¨¨¨
and cucumber soup for starters Tel (0212) 262 00 02 Meyhane
and milky pudding for dessert Although there is no outdoor Salacak Sahil Yolu 46, Üsküdar
are tasty options. seating at this long-established Tel (0216) 553 04 26
fish restaurant, in the summer, A smart meyhane, which looks
Ortaköy Mantı Evi ¨ large glass panels open out into out towards Seraglio Point.
Lokanta Map 9 F2 the fresh air. Creative fish mezes are a big draw
Değirmenci Sok 3, Ortaköy here, as is salt-baked John Dory,
Tel (0212) 261 45 50 Kosinitza ¨¨ which is wheeled to your table
Purveyors of delicious manti, or Meyhane girded by blue flames.
Turkish ravioli served in a garlicky Bereketli Sok 2, Kuzguncuk,
yogurt sauce. Üsküdar Balıkçı Kahraman ¨¨¨
Tel (0216) 334 04 00 Meyhane
Pide Ban ¨ While most Istanbul restaurants Iskele Cad 15, Rumeli Kavağı
Lokanta serve their fish plain and grilled, Tel (0212) 242 64 47
Dereboyu Cad 23, Sariyer here, they think a bit more about Although this restaurant doesn’t
Tel (0212) 242 42 39 combinations of flavours – so have a seafront, it is still packed
Traditional cuisine from the Black patrons are just as likely to find to the rafters on evenings and
Sea region. Huge range of pide an elegantly spiced fish stew weekends. Crowds from the city
on offer, and an extensive menu as a plain grilled offering. are drawn to Kahraman’s famous
of vegetable dishes and meats turbot, cooked in a clay-lined oven.
from the grill. Ortaköy Sefarad ¨¨
Meyhane Map 9 F2 Boğaziçi Borsa ¨¨¨
Adem Baba Balık ¨¨ Muvakkit Sok 21, Ortaköy Turkish Fusion Map 7 F1
Meyhane Tel (0212) 261 29 83 Lütfi Kırdar complex, Harbiye
Satışmeydanı Sok 2, Arnavutköy Jolly, traditional meyhane just far Tel (0212) 232 42 01
Tel (0212) 263 29 33 enough away from this waterside A grand restaurant set in the
Fun fish restaurant filled with neighbourhood’s worst tourist rolling hills of Lütfi Kırdar. Ideal for
fishing memorabilia. Expect traps. business lunches or fancy dinners.
all the usual meyhane repast, Everything tastes exquisite, and
except without alcohol. Suna’nın Yeri ¨¨ meat dishes feel less greasy than
Meyhane in Anatolian cuisine elsewhere.
House Café ¨¨ Kandilli İskele Cad 4, Kandilli
International Map 9 F3 Tel (0216) 332 32 41 Fish Var Balıkçı ¨¨¨
Salhane Sok 1, Ortaköy Unpretentious fish restaurant Meyhane
Tel (0212) 227 26 99 on the waterside. Located in the İstinye Cad 26, İstinye
This chic restaurant is such an shadow of a mosque, it has no Tel (0212) 277 25 82
Istanbul institution that it even wine list as such, but ask around A popular fish restaurant near the
has its own radio station. Enjoy and you might be surprised water on the İstinye inlet, serving
tasty pastas, pizzas and fresh by what can be brought to a wide range of fresh fish dishes,
lemonade alongside live beats. your table. but no alcohol.
Hanedan ¨¨¨
Meyhane
Çigdem Sok 27, Beşiktaş
Tel (0212) 259 40 17
Next to the Besiktas boat terminal,
this popular place is really several
restaurants in one. One floor
focuses on meat, the other on fish,
while there is a bar on the ground
floor. Rakı is popular throughout.
Istanbul Modern ¨¨¨

Turkish Fusion Map 3 F1
Antrepo No 4, Liman İşletmeleri
Sahası, Meclis-i Mebusan Cad, Karaköy
Tel (0212) 334 73 00
The dining room of the museum is
a great place to sip a cocktail and
sample a varied menu, while
enjoying stunning views of the
Spectacular sea view from the House Café in Ortakoy, The Bosphorus Bosphorus and the Old City.
Kızkulesi ¨¨¨ just pide, but a range of kebabs

International Map 10 A3 DK Choice as well. It is worth saving room
Kızkulesi, the Maiden's Tower Tapasuma ¨¨¨ for kadayıf, the shredded
Tel (0216) 342 47 47 Turkish Fusion pastry dessert.
Situated right in the middle of the Kuleli Cad 43, Çengelköy
Bosphorus on a landmark site, this Tel (0216) 401 13 33 Karadeniz Pide Salonu ¨
restaurant boasts a unique view – Tapasuma plays with great Turkish Pizza
though there is a surcharge. Boats originality
originality on the links between Kılıcaslan Cad, İznik
leave from Kadiköy or Kabatas. tapas and meze. The result is an Tel (0224) 757 01 43
ingenious tableau of flavours. Located in agricultural İznik,
Lacivert ¨¨¨ The restored distillery that this busy little place has a
Meyhane houses the restaurant is owned wood-fired oven that churns
Körfez Cad 57, Anadolu Hisarı by a pair of architects, whose out steady supplies of tasty
Tel (0216) 413 37 53 eye for detail is evident in the pide (flatbread topped with
Set practically under the second elegant decor. Guests can make cheese or meat).
Bosphorus bridge, this meyhane’s their own way over to Çengelköy,
waterside location served as a or can go in the restaurant’s boat. Kebabçı İskender ¨
set for Turkish films of the 1970s. Kebab
Seafood is the focus. Tayyare Kültür Merkezi Yanı,
Villa Bosphorus Beylerbeyi ¨¨¨ Atatürk Cad 60, Bursa
Lucca ¨¨¨ Meyhane Tel (0224) 221 10 76
International Iskele Cad 18, Beylerbeyi This place has a worthy claim
Cevdetpaşa Cad 51 B, Bebek Tel (0216) 318 68 10 to being the home of iskender
Tel (0212) 257 12 55 Lovely waterside fish restaurant kebap, a delicious take on the
Trendy and informal celebrity in the former fishing village döner kebab whose peculiarity
hangout that serves a range of neighbourhood of Beylerbeyi. is the soft bread layer below
modern fusion cuisine. the meat and the lashings of
tomato, yogurt and melted
Sur Balık ¨¨¨ butter above.
Seafood Beyond Istanbul
Arnavutköy Cad 52, Bebek Ciğerci Kazım ve Ilhan Usta ¨ Tahmis Köftecisi ¨
Tel (0212) 257 27 43 Kebab Kebab
Fine-dining option with excellent Balıkpazarı, Osmaniye Cad 43, Edirne Sabuni Mah, Tahmis Çarşısı
views of the Bosphorus. A great Tel (0284) 212 12 80 No 6, Edirne
place for lovers of seafood. Set With a menu of liver, vegetable Tel (0284) 213 30 92
in Körükçü Yalısı, the beautiful side dishes and not much else, The menu here is sparse – expect
150-year-old summer house, this is a quick, cheap and tasty meatballs, beans and soup. That’s
which is said to be among the dining option. Their method basically it, but the meatball
best examples of Ottoman of cooking crispy liver is speciality of this small Edirne
civilian architecture. outstanding. Twelve kinds eatery is cooked to such perfection
of breakfast are also on offer. that it’s hard to complain.
Takanik Balik ¨¨¨
Meyhane Doyum Pide ve Kebab Burç Beach ¨¨
Birinci Cad 87, Arnavutköy Restaurant ¨ Café
Tel (0212) 263 83 46 Café Boğaziçi Universitesi Gümüşdere
Pickles and fresh fish form the Demircioğlu Cad, Cumhuriyet Mevki, Sarıtepe Campus, Kumköy
main dishes at this dependable, Meydanı, Çanakkale (Kilyos) Köyü, Sariyer
delicious fish restaurant. No Tel (0286) 217 48 10 Tel (0212) 203 02 36
alcohol is served. Functional café that serves not The café at Burç Beach offers
plenty of snacks to keep
patrons fuelled all day, with
occasional concerts adding
to the carnival atmosphere.
Cafeka ¨¨
Turkish Fusion
Cumhuriyet Meydan 28,
Çanakkale
Tel (0286) 217 49 00
Sit back in the modern, tasteful
interiors of Cafeka to enjoy healthy
bowls of salad, tasty pasta dishes
and international variations of
classic Turkish dishes.
Çamlık Motel ¨¨
Meyhane
Göl Sahil Yolu, İznik
Tel (0224) 757 13 62
Set amid pine trees near the lake,
this pleasant restaurant serves an
extensive range of mezes. Locally
View of Maiden’s Tower, surrounded by the stunning Bosphorus caught catfish is a speciality.
Popular with locals who come

for the stews and soups at lunch,
and then fill the place again for
more formal fish, steaks and grills
in the evening.
Yoros Café Restaurant ¨¨

Meyhane
Feneryolu Cad, Yoros Kalesi Yanı,
Anadolu Kavağı, Beykoz
Tel (0216) 320 20 56
Fish and meze form a menu that
guests can enjoy seated atop the
castle hill, while taking in sweeping
views of the Bosphorus. However,
the trek up the hill is not for the
faint-hearted.
Splendid views from the outdoor seating area at Lacivert Yusuf Restaurant ¨¨
Kebab
ferry terminal at the mouth of the Kültür Park, Bursa
DK Choice Black Sea, this is a pleasant, casual Tel (0224) 234 49 54
Çiçek Izgara ¨¨ fish restaurant for a leisurely Yusuf serves some of the city’s
Traditional summer lunch before exploring tastiest food. Locals flock here
Belediye Cad, Heykel the castle up on the hill. for the lamb tandir (lamb baked
Tel (0216) 532 33 00 in a clay oven). There is a huge
Well-located behind the town Kitap Evi ¨¨ choice of mezes, grills, vegetarian
hall, this homely restaurant with International dishes – and football screens,
an old-fashioned charm is set Burç Üstü 21, Tophane, Bursa which keep the place packed.
in a period house. Do not miss Tel (0224) 225 41 60
the rich, tender köfte stuffed An elegantly restored Ottoman Balıkçı Yaşar Restaurant ¨¨¨
with cheese. The service is mansion, which used to be a book- Meyhane
efficient. There is no alcohol shop with an adjoining café. The Opposite the Piri Reis fountain,
on the menu. place is now a hotel, but it retains Atatürk Cad 333, Çanakkale
its charm with a pleasant garden
Tel (0286) 218 04 41
seating area. The menu features
Near the university campus,
Dalia Beach Club ¨¨ salads, pastas and sandwiches.
this is one of the best local fish
Meyhane
venues. Meze and salad choices
Kilyos Yolu, Üzeri Dalyan Lalezar ¨¨
are vast, but leave room for the
Mevkii, Demirciköy Kebab
Tel (0212) 204 03 68 Lozan Cad 6, Karaağaç Mahallesi, traditional quince and pumpkin
Quieter than Burç Beach, Dalia is Edirne desserts. Wide selection of rakıs.
a resort with more of a family feel Tel (0284) 223 06 00
to it, as well as a fish restaurant. With a children’s playground and Gizli Bahçe Restaurant ¨¨¨
a ballroom, Lalezar has it set when Meyhane
Hünkar Köşkü Sosyal Tesisi ¨¨ it comes to catering for grand Sazgeyin Mevkii Kopru Yanı No 1,
Ottoman events – but there is much in their Ağva, Şile
Sabiha Gökçen Sok 2, Mollaarap excellent kebab selection and river- Tel (0216) 721 72 23
Mah, Bursa side location that will also appeal A secluded lunch spot in
Tel (0224) 800 20 70 to the more casual Edirne diner. the village of Ağva. Worth the
An Ottoman-inspired menu is detour, not just for the menu,
offered at this restaurant, housed Saki Rum Meyhanesi ¨¨ which has specialities like
in premises built over 160 years Meyhane hodan or ebegumeci (a kind
ago by Sultan Abdulmecid. The Eski Mudanya Yolu 25, of boiled marrow), but also
view has been altered by the add- Bademli Girisi, Bursa because between the boats,
ition of skyscrapers, but the terrace Tel (0224) 549 02 89 the hammock area and
is still a good vantage point. The leafy and spacious setting children’s amusements, there
sets this place apart. Whether are enough activities to fill
Ilhan Restaurant ¨¨ the grilled octopus and beef the day.
Meyhane steaks are actually Greek is open
Liman Içi Balıkhane Sok 2, Gelibolu to question, but the menu does Leonardo Restaurant ¨¨¨
Tel (0286) 566 11 24 not disappoint. A fish or meat set International
Fish restaurant right on the menu for groups of six or above Köyiçi Sok 32, Polonezköy
Gallipoli Pier, notable not just for is an economical choice that Tel (0216) 432 30 82
its reliable seasonal fish dishes ensures countless dishes and With a menu of French, Polish
and its great view but also for the unlimited local booze. and Austrian cuisine, Leonardo
friendliness of its staff. seems to be becoming more
Yalova Liman Restaurant ¨¨ popular with time. Set in lush
İskele Balık ¨¨ Meyhane garden surroundings, it gets
Meyhane Entrance at Gümrük Sok 7, Çanakkale very crowded on weekends,
Iskele Meydanı No 2/1, Rumeli Kavağı Tel (0286) 217 10 45 when the buffet brunch is
Tel (0212) 242 22 73 Overlooking Canakkale harbour, served and guests flock here
Located conveniently near the and brimming with character. to use the pool.
Light Meals and Snacks

Eating on the streets is a part of life in Istanbul. You cannot go an unusual setting although
far without coming across a café, street stall or pedlar selling you have to pay to get into the
snacks to appease the hunger of busy passers-by. Savoury cistern (see p78). Café Kafka is
frequented by academics and
snacks like kebabs, lahmacun, pide and börek (see pp190–95)
intellectuals. They serve delicious
are eaten at any time of day, as are sweets and puddings. coffee, cake and snacks in a
On every street corner you will find a büfe or simit sarayı convivial atmosphere. In Eyüp
(sandwich kiosk). If you want to sit down, try a traditional (see p122) the Pierre Loti Café
kahve, or one of the increasing number of European-style is another traditional kahve.
cafés in the more affluent and cosmopolitan parts of Istanbul. Decorated with memorabilia
and antique wall tiles, it serves
There are also dozens of American-style restaurants in the good apple tea and claims to
city, selling hamburgers, pizzas and other types of fast food. have been the haunt of Pierre
Loti. İsmail Ağa Café, by the
Street Food then stuffed and rolled, while waterside in Kanlıca (see p143),
A common sight on the streets gözleme is cooked with the is famous for delicious yogurt.
of Istanbul is the seller of simits – ingredients inside, then folded Next to the Bebek ferry jetty
chewy bread rings coated with over in a triangle. (see p140) is Bebek Kahvesi.
sesame. The traditional simit-seller This café is a favourite with
(simitçi) carries his fare on his students and middle-class
head on a wooden tray; better-off Fish families who read their Sunday
ones push a glass-fronted cart Fish sandwich sellers offer newspapers on the terrace
from which they also sell poğaça delicious grilled or fried fresh while enjoying the breeze of
(flaky pastry filled with cheese or fish inside a large piece of the Bosphorus.
mince), su böreği (filled layered bread. Midye tava (fried mussels),
pastry), açma (a fluffy simit dressed with ground hazelnuts,
shaped like a doughnut) and garlic and oil, are also served Patisseries and
çatal (sweeter, eye-shaped simits inside bread or on a stick. Pudding Shops
without sesame seeds). They Fish and mussel sandwiches The best patisseries are in two
are all best eaten fresh. are sold at the Galatasaray Fish Beyoğlu hotels: the Divan and
During the summer, street Market in Beyoğlu (see p214). Pera Palace (see p106). Divan
vendors sell grilled or boiled corn Here you can also buy midye is known for its chocolates.
on the cob (mısır), generously dolma, mussels stuffed with pine Patisserie de Pera retains its
sprinkled with salt. In winter they nuts, rice and currants (see p192). charm with period decor, classical
sell roast chestnuts (kestane). However, be vigilant when music and tasty biscuits. It has
Kağıt helvası, a sweet, is purchasing food that may have a good selection of English teas.
another summer snack. Kağıt had a long street life, particularly İnci Patisserie, founded in
means “paper”, and the thin, in the summer months. 1944, is famous for its excellent
crumbly layers of pastry filled profiteroles and baklava.
with sugar melt in your mouth. Conveniently located next
Street food in Ortaköy is Kahvehanes to the tram stop in Sultanahmet,
dominated by Kumpir, baked The typical Turkish café, kahvehane Edebiyat Kıraathanesi is a
potatoes smothered with (or kahve), is a male-dominated patisserie popular among
every imaginable topping. local coffee shop. The original local intellectuals.
Ottoman name, kıraathane, Pudding shops (muhallebici)
means “a place to read”, but such sell traditional sweet milk
Sandwich and cafés are more a place where puddings. Sütiş Muhallebicisi
Pastry Shops men play backgammon and is a long-established chain.
Delicious sandwiches are on cards, puff on a nargile (bubble
sale from small kiosks or büfes, pipe) and drink endless cups of
usually near bus stops. They coffee and tea. No alcoholic Ice-Cream Shops
include inexpensive thin, toasted drinks or food are served. Itinerant ice-cream vendors are
sandwiches (tost) and hot dogs In tourist areas like Beyazıt a common sight in residential
(sosisli sandviç). and Sultanahmet, however, districts in the summer. Turkish
The snack bars of Ortaköy (see female foreigners will be wel- ice cream (dondurma) is thick
p124) specialize in pastries from come in kahves and, although and very sweet. It comes in milk
southern Turkey like gözleme they may be stared at, they will chocolate and fruit varieties and
and dürüm. Both consist of thin not be disturbed. Çorlulu Ali is served in cones. One of the
layers of bread, grilled on a hot Paşa Medresesi (see p98) is a best places to eat ice cream is
sheet of iron and stuffed with kahve popular with artists and Mado, which has several outlets.
meat, cheese and vegetables. students. The Basilica Cistern Also try Mini Dondurma
Dürüm bread is cooked first, Café offers a cooling retreat in in Bebek.
Key to Price Guide see p196
European-style Cafés as vegetable grill, Waldorf salad with home-grown ingredients,

European-style cafés serving and toast provençale. Also as well as a range of herbal teas.
light meals such as salads, in Nişantaşı is the Next Café,
croque-monsieur, omelettes which offers European-style
and crêpes are now common cakes and pies as well as Bars
in Istanbul. Sweets usually savoury dishes such as börek. Despite the Islamic edict
include cheesecake, chocolate The area around Ortaköy (see against alcohol, there are
brownies, tiramisu and ice p124), with its market, many plenty of bars in Istanbul. The
cream in summer. craft shops and a good nightlife majority of the city’s fashion-
The best are around Taksim scene, is a haven of street food able cafés turn into bars in the
and İstiklal Caddesi in Beyoğlu and light snacks. evening, signalled by a change
(see pp104–105). The elegant, Further up along the shores of music from soft tunes to
late 19th-century Lebon serves of the Bosphorus, in Rumeli loud pop. It is possible just to
savoury dishes such as vol-au- Hisarı (see p142), there is an sit with a drink, but for those
vents, as well as sumptuous exclusive English café called who wish to have food, many
Viennese cakes. House Café is Tea Room. Decorated in a serve pasta, steaks, grills and
much favoured by Istanbul’s colonial style, it serves scones salads at the bar. Even bars
westernized middle classes, and and, of course, a variety of that are not cafés during the
has branches on Asmalı Mescit, English teas. day will serve snacks.
İstiklal Caddesi and in Ortaköy. Among a new generation Sensus is a basement wine
Sultanahmet has a few chic, of Internet cafés (see p234) and cheese bar, specializing in
designer cafés. The Lale springing up in the city, one Turkish wines. Leb-ı Derya is a
Restaurant, a hippie spot in the of the best is Antique. sophisticated restaurant and
1970s, now serves inexpensive Cafés are now beginning bar, offering splendid views of
casseroles and grilled chicken, to open on the Asian side, too. the Bosphorus. Down in Karaköy,
as well as Turkish milk puddings. One of the most interesting Unter is a fashionable water-
Zanzibar, in the smart is Kadife Chalet near Moda. front bar with excellent decor.
shopping district of Nişantaşı, Housed in a 19th-century Many bars feature live bands
is popular with a stylish young wooden building, it offers home- playing rock or jazz music. For
clientele. It serves dishes such made cakes and dishes made further details see page 221.
DIRECTORY
Kahvehanes Edebiyat Kıraathanesi European-style Next Café
Divanyolu Cad 14, Cafés Ihlamur Yolu 3–1,
Bebek Kahvesi
Sultanahmet. Map 5 D4. Nişantaşı. Map 7 D5.
Cevdetpaşa Cad 137, Antique
Tel (0212) 526 16 15. Kutlugün Sokak 51, Tel (0212) 247 80 43.
Bebek.
Tel (0212) 257 54 02. İnci Patisserie Sultanahmet. Map 3 E4. Tea Room
İstiklal Cad, Mis Sok 18, Tel (0212) 517 67 89. Yahya Kemal Cad 36A,
Café Kafka
Yeni Çarşi Cad 26/1, Beyoğlu. Map 7 E4. House Café Rumeli Hisarı.
Galatasaray. Tel (0212) 293 92 24. Asmalı Mescit Sok 9/1–2, Tel (0212) 257 25 80.
Map 7 D4. Beyoğlu. Map 7 D5.
Patisserie de Pera Zanzibar
Tel (0212) 245 19 58. Tel (0212) 245 95 15.
Pera Palace Hotel, Teşvikiye Cad 43–57,
Çorlulu Ali Paşa Mısır Apt, Istiklal Cad 163,
Meşrutiyet Cad 98–100, Beyoğlu. Map 7 D4. Reassürans Çarşısı No. 60,
Medresesi Tepebaşı. Map 7 D5. Teşvikiye. Map 8 A2.
Yeniçeriler Cad 36, Tel (0212) 251 79 91.
Tel (0212) 251 45 60. Salhane Sok 1, Ortaköy. Tel (0212) 233 80 46.
Çemberlitaş.
Map 2 C4 (4 B3). Sütiş Muhallebicisi Map 9 F3.
Tel (0212) 528 37 85. Tel (0212) 227 26 99. Bars
Sıraselviler Cad 9/A,
İsmail Ağa Café Taksim. Map 7 E4. Kadife Chalet Leb-ı Derya
Simavi Meydanı, Kanlıca. Tel (0212) 252 82 68. Kadife Sok 29, Kadıköy. Kumbaraci Yokuşu 57,
Tel (0216) 347 85 96. Beyoğlu. Map 7 D5.
Pierre Loti Café
Gümüşsuyu Karyağdı Sok
Ice Cream Shops Lale Restaurant Tel (0212) 293 49 89.
5 (inside Eyüp cemetary), Divanyolu Cad 6,
Mado Sensus
Eyüp. Tel (0212) 581 26 96. Sultanahmet.
Osmanzade Sok 26, Büyükhendek Cad 5,
Map 3 E4 (5 E4).
Ortaköy. Map 9 F3. Galata. Map 6 C5.
Patisseries and Tel (0212) 522 29 70.
Pudding Shops Tel (0212) 227 38 76. Tel (0212) 245 94 43.
Lebon
Divan Mini Dondurma Richmond Hotel, İstiklal Unter
Cumhuriyet Cad 2, Cevdetpaşa Cad 107, Cad 445, Beyoğlu. Kara Ali Kaptan Sok,
Elmadağ. Map 7 F3. Bebek. Map 7 D5. Karaköy. Map 3 E1.
Tel (0212) 231 41 08. Tel (0212) 257 10 70. Tel (0212) 252 54 60. Tel (0212) 244 51 51.
SHOPPING IN ISTANBUL
Istanbul’s shops and markets, crowded and shopping under one roof, head for one
noisy at most times of the day and year, sell of the city’s modern shopping malls which
a colourful mixture of goods from all over offer a variety of international and Turkish
the world. The city’s most famous shopping brand goods. Wherever you shop, be wary of
centre is the Grand Bazaar and there are many imitations of famous brand products – even if
other bazaars and markets to browse around they appear to be of a high standard and the
(see pp214–15). Turkey is a centre of textile salesman maintains that they are authentic.
production, and Istanbul has a wealth of carpet Be prepared to bargain where required:
and fashion shops. If you prefer to do all your it is an important part of a shopping trip.
a few small shops may are expected in the markets

close briefly at prayer times, and bazaars. Start by offering
especially for the midday half the asking price. In rural
prayers on Fridays. Most shops markets merchants may
close for the religious holidays accept foreign currency.
of Şeker Bayramı and Kurban
Bayramı, but remain open on
national holidays (see pp46–9). VAT Exemption
If you spend at least 118 TL in
one shop, you can claim back
How to Pay VAT (known as KDV in Turkey),
Most shops that cater to which is 18 per cent.
tourists will be happy to More than 2,200 retail
accept foreign currency. outlets display the
If you can pay in cash, you Tax Free Shopping
Brightly decorated candle lanterns in the can usually get a discount. logo. The retailer
Grand Bazaar Exchange rates are often will give you a
displayed in shops and also Global Refund
Opening Hours appear in daily newspapers. Cheque, which
Shops are open, in general, Credit cards are widely you should then
from 9am to 8pm Monday accepted (except in markets present to the
to Saturday; open-air markets and smaller shops) and customs officials Fezes for sale on a
from 8am onwards. Large most vendors do not charge with your invoices street stall
shops and department stores a commission. Resist any and purchases for a cash
open slightly later in the attempts to make you pay refund when leaving Turkey.
morning. The Grand Bazaar a small compensatory
and Spice Bazaar open their commission. It is not unusual
gates at 8:30am and close at to be asked to draw the Sizes and Measures
7pm. Big shopping malls money out from a bank on Turkey uses continental
open from 10am to 10pm your card. Very few shops European sizes for clothes and
seven days a week. Shops do now accept traveller's shoes. Food and drink are sold
not close for lunch, although cheques. Cash and haggling in metric measures. This book
has a conversion chart on
page 229.
Buying Antiques
Before purchasing antique
items, it is important to know
what can and cannot be
taken out of Turkey. The rule
is that objects which are over
100 years old may be exported
only when a certificate stating
their age and granting
permission to remove them
from the country has been
issued by the relevant
authority. Museums issue
Turkish delight and boiled sweets, sold by weight at market stalls these certificates, as does
S H O P P I N G I N I S TA N B U L 211
with a museum all Shopping Malls and

goods for sale that Department Stores
are over 100 years Istanbul’s modern shopping
old. In practice, malls are popular for their
sellers usually only entertainment as well as
seek permission their shopping facilities. They
after a particular have multiscreen cinemas,
item has been sold. food courts selling fast food,
In the past, antiques chic cafés, and hundreds
could be removed of shops.
from Turkey without Istanbul has almost 100
a certificate. shopping malls, at central
Although this and convenient locations
has changed, the for visitors. Demirören on
export of antiques İstiklal Caddesi, is designed
is not forbidden, to complement the historic
as some believe. surroundings. City’s Mall,
If the proper with its upmarket shops and
authorities permit cinema, caters to Nişantaşı’s
Antiques shop in Çukurcuma your purchase to be prosperous inhabitants. The
exported, you can award-winning Zorlu Centre,
the Ministry of Culture either take it with you or send with its state-of-the-art
in Ankara, who will also it home, whether or not it is performance centre and
undertake to authenticate over 100 years old. Do take designer shops, is extremely
the correct age and value of note, however, that taking stylish. Kanyon, in Levent,
an object, if necessary. The antiques out of Turkey without boasts 160 stores, a cinema,
shopkeeper from whom you proper permission is regarded gourmet restaurants and a
bought your goods will often as smuggling, and is a fitness centre. The mall is
know which museum will be punishable offence. anchored by a Harvey Nichols.
authorizing your purchases Van cats and Kangal dogs
for export. In theory, a seller have recently been included
should already have registered in this category.
How to Bargain
In upmarket shops in Istanbul, bargaining is rarely practised. However,
you will probably do most of your shopping in the Grand Bazaar and
the shops located in or around the Old City (Sultanahmet and
Beyazıt). In these places haggling is a necessity, otherwise you may
be cheated. Elsewhere you can try making an offer but it
may be refused.
Bazaar shopkeepers, characterized by their abrasive insistence,
expect you to bargain. Always take your time and decide where to
buy after visiting a few shops selling similar goods. The procedure is
as follows:
• You will often be invited inside and offered a cup of tea. Feel free Swanky interiors of the Kanyon shopping
to accept, as this is the customary introduction to any kind of mall in Levent
exchange and will not oblige you to buy.
• Do not feel pressurized if the shopkeeper turns the shop upside
Seasonal Sales
down to show you his stock – this is normal practice and most Clothes shops are the main
salesmen are proud of their goods. places for seasonal sales
• If you are seriously interested in any item, be brave enough to (indirim), although department
offer half the price you are asked. stores and a number of
• Take no notice if the speciality shops also have
shopkeeper looks offended them. They begin in June or
and refuses, but raise the price July and continue to the end
slightly, aiming to pay a little of September. The winter
more than half the original sales start as soon as New Year
offer. If that price is really shopping is over in early
unacceptable to the owner he January and continue until
will stop bargaining over the mid-April. There are no sales in
item and turn your attention bazaars – every day of the year
Haggling over the price of a rug to other goods in the shop. offers bargains depending on
your haggling skills.
Antiques and Books

Where to Shop in Istanbul The best area for antiques is
Istanbul is home to a vast range of shops and bazaars. Çukurcuma (see p109), in the
Often shops selling particular items are clustered together, backstreets of Beyoğlu. Shops
competing for custom. In the Old City, the Grand Bazaar (see worth a visit are Aslı Günşiray,
Antikhane and Antikarnas for
pp100–101) is a centre for carpets and kilims, gold jewellery
their Turkish, Islamic and Western
and leather jackets, as well as every type of handicraft and stock. A vast array of Ottoman
souvenir. Nişantaşı and İstiklal Caddesi over the Golden Horn, antique brassware, furniture and
and Bağdat Caddesi on the Asian side, have a good range of pottery, including Turkish coffee
clothes and shoe shops. The best choices for food are the cups and vases, are sold in the
Spice Bazaar (see p90) and the Galatasaray Fish Market (see p214). Grand Bazaar.
The best bookshop in the Old
City is Galeri Kayseri, which
Carpets and Kilims traditional Ottoman textiles. The sells a wide selection of English-
One of the best places to antiques dealer Aslı Günşiray language titles. Homer, in
buy carpets and kilims in sells both original Ottoman and Beyoğlu, stocks every possible
Istanbul is in the Grand Bazaar reproduction embroidered book on Istanbul and Turkey.
(see pp100–101), where Şişko cloths. Jennifer’s Hamam in
Osman has a good range of Arasta Bazaar sells a wide range
carpets. Nakkas offers a range of quality textiles, including Handicrafts and Souvenirs
of quality carpets and kilims peştemals (Turkish bath wraps). All types of Turkish arts and crafts
in a huge variety of sizes, can be found in the Grand Bazaar.
colours and patterns. The Ideal gifts and souvenirs include
Arasta Bazaar (see p73) has Jewellery embroidered hats, waistcoats and
many kilim shops, and Hazal Istanbul’s substantial gold slippers, mother-of-pearl inlaid
Halı, in Ortaköy, is run by a market centres on jewellery boxes,
wonderfully professional lady Kalpakçılar Caddesi in meerschaum pipes in
who knows the history of the Grand Bazaar. the shape of heads,
almost all of the carpets. Here gold jewellery is prayer beads made from
sold by weight, with semi-precious stones,
a modest sum added alabaster ornaments,
Fabrics for craftsmanship, blue-eye charms to
As well as rugs, colourful fabrics which is generally of guard against the evil
in traditional designs from all good quality. The eye, nargiles (bubble
over Turkey and Central Asia are daily price of gold is Icons for sale in the pipes) and reproduc-
widely sold. Sivaslı Yazmacısı displayed in the shop Grand Bazaar tions of icons. At the
sells village textiles, crocheted windows. Other Istanbul Handicrafts
headscarves and embroidered shops in the Grand Bazaar sell Centre (see p78), watch the
cloths. Centrally located behind silver jewellery, and pieces traditional art of calligraphy being
the Blue Mosque, Khaftan inlaid with precious stones. practised. Rölyef in Beyoğlu, the
offers a wide selection of Urart stocks collections of Book Bazaar (see p96), Artrium
unique gold and silver jewellery and Sofa also sell antique and
inspired by the designs of reproduction calligraphy, as well
ancient civilizations. Antikart as ebru (marbled paintings) and
specializes in restored antique reproductions of Ottoman
silver jewellery made by Kurds miniature paintings.
and nomads in eastern Turkey.
Pottery, Metal and
Leather Glassware
Turkish leatherwear, while Hundreds of shops in the Grand
not always of the best quality Bazaar are stocked with traditional
hides, is durable, of good ceramics, including many pieces
craftsmanship and reasonably decorated with exquisite blue-
priced. The Grand Bazaar is full and-white İznik designs (see p163).
of shops selling leather goods. Other types of pottery come from
B B Store, for example, offers a Kütahya – distinguished by its
good range of ready-to-wear free style of decoration – and
and made-to-order garments. Çanakkale (see p172) – which uses
Meb Deri sells designer more modern designs, often in
handbags and small leather yellows and greens. İznik
Brightly coloured Central Asian suzani goods, and Desa has classic Classics has three branches in
wall hangings and fashionable designs. the city selling beautiful
handcrafted pottery, the most with blue and gold stripes) (papatya). However, other
convenient outlet being in and Beykoz-style ware (with foods can be bought here as
Arasta Bazaar. Most museum gilded decoration). well, including such luxuries
shops also have a good range as caviar. Another place with
of pottery for sale, including a wide variety of good quality
reproduction pieces. Food, Drink, Herbs herbs, jams, teas and spices is
The Grand Bazaar and and Spices the Galatasaray Fish Market.
the Arasta Bazaar (see p215) The Spice Bazaar (see p90) is Several shops specialize
are centres of the copper and the place to buy nuts (especially in particular foods. Şekerci
brass trade and offer a huge pistachios) and dried fruits, Hacı Bekir is renowned for
selection to the browsing visitor. herbs and spices, jams and its delectable Turkish delight
For glassware, Paşabahçe, the many types of herbal tea and baklava. Also popular is
the largest glass manufacturer produced in Turkey. These Bebek Badem Ezmesi, on
in Turkey, creates delicate include sage (adaçayı), linden the Bosphorus, widely acclaimed
çeşmibülbül vases (decorated (ıhlamur) and camomile for its pistachio and almond
fondants. Over the course
of more than a century in
business, Kurukahveci Mehmet
Efendi (see p88) has become
the best-known producer of
Turkish coffee. The quintessential
Turkish spirit, rakı (see p195),
can be bought in any grocery
Pickled fruits and vegetables, sold in markets and on street stalls or duty-free store.
DIRECTORY
VAT Exemption Şişko Osman Meb Deri Rölyef
Halıcılar Cad 49, Grand Abdi İpekçi Cad 14/2, Emir Nevruz Sok 16,
Global Refund Bazaar. Map 2 C4 (4 B3). Nişantaşı. Map 1 C1. Beyoğlu. Map 7 D4 (4 C3).
Teşvikiye, Ferah Sokak Tel (0212) 528 35 48. Tel (0212) 225 56 80. Tel (0212) 244 04 94.
19/A-2.
Tel (0212) 232 11 21. Fabrics Antiques Sofa
∑ globalrefund.com Nuruosmaniye Cad 42,
Khaftan Antikarnas Cağaloğlu. Map 3 D4 (4
Shopping Malls Nakilbent Sok 32, Faik Paşa Yok 15, C3). Tel (0212) 527 41 42.
Sultanahmet. Map 3 D5 Çukurcuma. Map 7 E4.
City's Mall (5 D5). Tel (0212) 458 54 25. Pottery, Metal
Tel (0212) 251 59 28.
Tesvikiye Cad 162, and Glassware
Nişantaşı. Sivaslı Yazmacısı Antikhane
Tel (0212) 373 33 33. Yağlıkçılar Sok 57, Grand Faik Paşa Yok Restohan 41, İznik Classics
Bazaar. Map 2 C4 (4 B3). Çukurcuma. Map 7 E4. Arasta Çarşısı 119,
Demirören Tel (0212) 526 77 48. Tel (0212) 251 95 87. Sultanahmet. Map 5 E5.
İstiklal Cad, Beyoğlu.
Tel (0212) 517 17 05.
Map 7 E4. Jewellery Aslı Günşiray
Tel (0212) 249 99 99. Çukurcuma Cad 72–74, Paşabahçe
Antikart Çukurcuma. Map 7 E4. İstiklal Cad 314, Beyoğlu.
Kanyon İstiklal Cad 207, Beyoğlu. Tel (0212) 252 59 86. Map 7 D5.
Büyükdere Cad 185, Map 7 D4. Tel (0212) 244 05 44.
Levent. Tel (0212) 252 44 82.
Tel (0212) 353 53 00.
Books
Urart Food
Zorlu Centre Abdi İpekçi Cad 18/1, Galeri Kayseri
Zincirlikuyu. Map 7 E4. Nişantaşı. Map 7 F1. Divanyolou Caddesi 11, Bebek Badem Ezmesi
Tel (0212) 336 91 60. Tel (0212) 246 71 94. Sultanahmet. Map 3 D4. Cevdetpaşa Cad 238/1,
Tel (0212) 516 33 66. Bebek.
Carpets and Leather Homer Tel (0212) 263 59 84.
Kilims Yeni Çarşı Cad 28,
B B Store Kurukahveci Mehmet
Hazal Halı Gani Çelebi Sok 4–6, Beyoğlu. Map 7 D4. Efendi
Mecidiye Köprüsü Sok Grand Bazaar. Tel (0212) 249 59 02. Tahmis Cad 66, Eminönü.
27–9, Ortaköy. Map 9 F3. Map 2 C4 (4 B3). Map 3 D2.
Tel (0212) 261 72 33. Tel (0212) 527 53 38. Handicrafts Tel (0212) 511 42 62.
Nakkas Desa Atrium Şekerci Hacı Bekir
Nakilbent Sok 33, İstiklal Cad 140, Beyoğlu. 9th floor, Swissôtel, Hamidiye Cad 83,
Sultanahmet. Map 3 D5 Map 7 D4. Maçka. Map 8 A4. Eminönü. Map 3 D3.
(5 D5). Tel (0212) 516 52 23. Tel (0212) 243 37 86. Tel (0212) 2559 02 28. Tel (0212) 522 06 66.
Istanbul’s Markets
Whether you want to lose yourself in the aromas of exotic spices, rummage
for old prints and miniatures among secondhand books, hunt for souvenirs
or just shop for food, you will find a market or bazaar catering to your
tastes somewhere in Istanbul. An obvious first stop is the Grand Bazaar,
but several others are well worth visiting for their more specialized produce
and their atmospheric settings. Every neighbourhood in Istanbul has its
own open-air market on a specific day of the week. At these markets, Şişli Feriköy
crowded with budget-conscious housewives, you will find a huge variety Organic Market
of merchandise at the cheapest possible prices.
Galatasaray Fish Market

The best fish market in
Istanbul runs along a
historic alleyway. Constantly
sprinkled with water to keep
them cool, fresh fish from
the Sea of Marmara and
elsewhere lie waiting to
be sold (see p105). D
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Wednesday Street Market

One of Istanbul’s colourful neighbourhood
markets, the Wednesday market, is next
to the Fatih Mosque (see p115) and sells
everything from fresh produce and house-
hold goods to bulbs and seeds. Spice Bazaar Arasta Bazaar
Grand Bazaar
The largest market in
the world, the Grand
Bazaar contains about
4,000 shops. In this
roofed labyrinth of
Book Bazaar passages you can find
Next to the Grand Bazaar, the every commodity
Book Bazaar (Sahaflar Çarşısı) associated with Turkey,
offers a wealth of printed matter from costly jewellery to
in various languages, from tourist basic foodstuffs. It has
guides to academic tomes operated for hundreds
and old magazines (see p96). of years (see pp100–101).
Şişli Feriköy Organic Market

Istanbul’s first organic fruit and vegetables Ortaköy Flea Market
market is open every Saturday in Feriköy. Every Sunday the main square of
Ortaköy is filled with stalls selling
souvenirs to suit every budget, from
junk to fine jewellery and original
Turkish handicrafts (see p124).
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Kadıköy Street Market

A
The main market for food on

D DES
the Asian side of the city can

S e a of
İ
be found in Kadıköy Square,

M armara behind the post office.
Spice Bazaar Arasta Bazaar

The Spice Bazaar is an exotic Converted Ottoman stables are the setting for this
trading house for dried herbs, bazaar below the Blue Mosque (see pp80–81). Carpets
spices and other foodstuffs (see pp218–19) are the main items touted, but
(see p90). handicrafts and jewellery are also on sale (see p73).
What to Buy in Istanbul

With its endless bazaars, markets, shops and stalls, Istanbul is a souvenir
hunter’s paradise. If you are seeking a bargain, jewellery and leather can
be worth investing in. For something typically Turkish, there is a wide
selection of ceramics and copperware based on the designs of
traditional Ottoman handicrafts and arts. The city’s antique shops (see
p212) are also worth a visit. Istanbul is possibly most famous for its
carpets and kilims (see pp218–19), but check the quality before you buy.
Copperware
Antique copperware can be
very expensive. Newer items,
however, are also available,
at more affordable prices. Pipes
Classic nargiles (bubble pipes) are
still used by older Turkish men.
They make attractive ornaments
even if you do not smoke.
Copper goblets
Jewellery
Jewellery includes pendants made
from gold, silver, semi-precious
stones and other materials. A simple
blue glass eye is said to ward off evil.
Blue glass-eye
Antique copper pendants
water ewer
Ceramics
Ceramics form a major part of Turkey’s artistic
tradition. The style varies according to the area of
origin. Blue-and-white pottery is in the İznik style Colourful
(see p163); other areas of production include Kütahya ware
Kütahya and Çanakkale (see p172).
Green jugs Blue and white

from Çanakkale decorated plate İznik-style tile
Miniatures
Istanbul has a history
of miniature painting,
examples of which can
be seen in the city’s
museums, especially
Topkapı Palace (see p59).
These tiny works of
art, often depicting the
sultan at court, were Box inlaid with
once bound in books. mother-of-pearl Box with painted scenes
Those for sale are copies on bone inlay
of originals.
Handicrafts
Miniature from the Jewellery boxes crafted from wood or bone,
Grand Bazaar alabaster figurines and other handmade
ornaments make unusual souvenirs.
Textiles
Hand-woven cloths, including ikat
work (where the cotton is dyed as it
is woven), fine embroidery and knits
are just some of the range of textiles
that can be bought.
Embroidered scarves, known as oyalı
Glassware
This elegant jug is an example of the blue-
Cotton ikat work and-white striped glassware, çeşmibülbül,
made in the Paşabahçe works (see p149). Çeşmibülbül jug
Local Delicacies
Delicious sweets such as halva,
Turkish delight and baklava
are very popular. A huge
range of fragrant spices,
dried fruit and nuts are
sold loose by weight in
the city’s bazaars. Nuts in Turkish
Halva honey delight
Mulberries Sunflower and pumpkin Chickpeas

seeds
Dried red
peppers and
aubergines Apricots Almonds Pistachio nuts
Turkish Carpets and Kilims A carpet may be machine-made

or handmade. Fold the face of the
The ancient skill of weaving rugs has been handed down from rug back on itself: if you can see
the base of the knots and the pile
generation to generation in Turkey. Rugs were originally made cannot be pulled out, it means
for warmth and decoration in the home, as dowry items for that it is handmade.
brides, or as donations to mosques. There are two main kinds
of rug: carpets (halı), which are knotted, and kilims, which are
flat-woven with vertical (warp) and horizontal (weft) threads.
Many foreign rugs are sold in Istanbul but
those of Turkish origin come in a particularly
wide range of attractive colours. Most of the
carpets and kilims offered for sale will be new
or almost new; antique rugs are rarer and far
more expensive.
Carpets are
made using
three different
combinations
of material:
wool on wool,
silk on silk, or
wool on cotton.
Weaving a Carpet
Wool for rugs is washed, carded,
spun and dyed before it is woven.
Weaving is a cottage industry in
Turkey; the women weave in
winter leaving the summer
months for farming duties.
Carpet
This reproduction of a
Rug-making Areas of Western Turkey 16th-century Uşak carpet
is known as a Bellini double
The weaving industry in Turkey is entrance prayer rug.
concentrated into several areas of
production, listed below. Rug
designs are traditional to their
tribal origins, resulting in a wide
range of designs and enabling Indigo
the skilled buyer to identify the
area of origin.
Madder
Carpets
1 Hereke
2 Çanakkale
3 Ayvacık Camomile
4 Bergama
Kilims Dyes
5 Yuntdağ
q Denizli
6 Balıkesir Before chemical dyes were
w Uşak
7 Sındırgı introduced in 1863, plant
8 Milas extracts were used: madder
9 Antalya Carpets and Kilims roots for red; indigo for blue;
0 Isparta e Konya
and camomile and other
plants for yellow.
The “prayer design” is inspired

by a mihrab, the niche in a mosque
that indicates the direction of
Mecca (see p40).
The tree of life motif at

the centre of the kilim is
symbolic of immortality.
Buying a Rug
Before you buy a rug, look at it by itself on the
floor, to see that it lies straight – without waves
or lumps. Check that the pattern is balanced,
the borders are of the same dimensions, and
the ends are roughly the same width. The
colours should be clear and not bleeding into
one another. Bargaining is essential (see p211),
as the first price given is likely to be at least
50 per cent higher than the seller really expects.
Buying a good quality old rug at a reasonable
price, however, is a job for an expert. The age
of a rug is ascertained from its colour, the
quality of the weaving and the design. Check
the pile to make sure that the surface has not
been painted and look for any repairs – they
can easily be seen on the back of the rug.
Restoration of an old carpet is acceptable
but the repair should not be too visible. Make
sure the rug has a small lead seal attached
to it, to prove its authenticity and that it may
be exported, and ask the shop for a receipt.
Kilim
Kilims are usually made using the slit
weave technique by which a vertical slit
Kilim pieces are
marks a colour change.
used to make a
variety of smaller
The width of a rug is limited by the craft objects, also for
size of the loom. Most rugs are small sale in carpet shops.
because a large loom will not fit into
a village house.
Burdock motif Chest motif
Motifs
The recurring motifs in rugs – some of them
seemingly abstract, others more figurative –
often have a surprising origin. For instance,
many are derived from marks that nomads and Motif from wolf track, crab Modern motif of a
villagers used for branding animals. or scorpion human figure
ENTERTAINMENT IN
ISTANBUL
Istanbul offers a great variety of leisure pursuits, Exhibition Centre, ICEC), the Cemal Reşit
ranging from arts festivals, folk music and belly Rey Concert Hall (CRR) and other venues
dancing to sports centres and nightclubs. The around the city. Beyoğlu is the main centre
main event in the cultural calendar is the series for entertainment of all kinds. This area has
of festivals organized by the Istanbul Foundation the highest concentration of cinemas in the
for Culture and the Arts (see pp46–9). The festivals city as well as several cultural centres, both
take place between March and November, and Turkish and foreign. In the evening the bars
always draw international performers and large and cafés here play live music. Ortaköy, on the
audiences. Throughout the year, traditional European shore of the Bosphorus, is another
Turkish music, opera, ballet, Western classical popular venue where, on summer nights, dining,
music and plays are performed at the Lütfi Kırdar music and dancing continue into the small
Kongre Merkezi (Istanbul Convention & hours of the morning.
Booking Tickets in June and July, and the Jazz

Tickets for performances at Festival is in July. The biennial
the Lütfi Kırdar Congress and Fine Arts Festival takes place in
Exhibition Centre and Cemal the autumn. Tickets for all these
Reşit Rey Concert Hall can be festivals can be bought over
purchased one week in advance the phone from the Istanbul
from their box offices. The Festival Committee, which also
fastest and most convenient has programme details, and
ways to book and pay for tickets from the venues.
to any event is online through The Yapı Kredi Arts Festival,
Biletix (www.biletix.com). Akbank Jazz Festival and Efes
Vakkorama department store Pilsen Blues Festival are also in
and Galleria, Akmerkez and the autumn (see p48).
Capitol shopping centres sell
Copies of The Guide, a good source for tickets for large pop and jazz
information on entertainment in Istanbul concerts, and also for perform- Western Classical Music
ances at the Cemal Reşit Rey and Dance
Entertainment Guides Concert Hall. Every season the Istanbul State
Istanbul has a bi-monthly Opera and Ballet companies,
entertainment and listings Late-night Transport State Symphony Orchestra
magazine in English called The metro and tram systems and State Theatre perform a
The Guide. This publishes the close around midnight. The wide repertoire of classical
programmes of the ICEC and last late-night buses and and modern works. The
CRR, and information on other dolmuşes leave at midnight from companies share the same
cultural events, as well as bars Taksim, which is close to many venue: the Lütfi Kırdar
and nightclubs around the city. entertainment venues. Taxis run Congress and Exhibition
The Guide is sold at the larger, throughout the night. During Centre. Early booking is
central newsagents and music festivals in June and July essential for shows here.
bookshops. Time Out Istanbul there is a special bus service
is published monthly in both which runs between venues and
English and Turkish. central parts of Istanbul.
Lists of events taking place at
individual theatres and cultural
centres (including those attached Festivals
to foreign consulates) can be Five arts festivals, four annual
obtained from tourist information and one biennial, are organized
offices (see p229). by the Istanbul Foundation
The Turkish Airlines in-flight for Culture and the Arts. The
magazine, Skylife, has details Film Festival runs from March to
of major events, and the daily April every year, the Theatre
English-language Turkish Festival is in May and June, the
newspaper Hürriyet Daily News Music and Dance Festival – the Classical concert in the church of
has listings in Turkish. original and biggest festival – is Haghia Eirene (see p62)
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N I S TA N B U L 221
Avoid the seedier-looking clubs

in Beyoğlu, as these have been
known to coerce clients into
paying extortionate bills.
Traditional Turkish Music

and Dance
Traditional Turkish music
is regularly performed at
the Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall.
This includes Ottoman classical
music, performed by an en-
semble of singers and musicians,
mystical Sufi music and folk
music from various regions of
Turkey. Another good venue to
Folk dancing at Kervansaray, a long-established venue see a mix of traditional Turkish
folk music and dance is the
The Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Foundation for Culture and stunning Hodja Pasha Culture
Hall stages concerts of Western Arts, hosts jazz, folk, rock Centre in Sirkeci, located in a
classical music as well as hosting and electronic acts from beautifully restored Ottoman
a wide variety of music and dance around the world. Kadıköy, bathhouse.
groups from all over the world. with places like Shaft, has a Fasıl is a popular form of
Concerts, operettas and ballets thriving rock culture. traditional music best enjoyed
are also performed at smaller live in meyhanes such as Ece and
venues throughout the city. Istanbulin Dinner Show. It is
Laser-disc screenings of Clubs usually performed by gypsies on
opera, ballet and classical music The luxurious, summer-only instruments which include the
performances are held most Ulus 29 is probably the most violin, kanun (zither), tambur
days at 2pm and 6pm at the glamorous nightclub in and ut (both similar to the lute).
Aksanat Cultural Centre. It also Istanbul. It has a restaurant, Belly dancing is performed
sometimes stages live plays swimming pool and torchlit mainly in nightclubs. Shows
and music recitals. garden with glorious views of are aimed at the tourist market,
the Bosphorus. Every half-hour invariably including a belly
a boat ferries guests to and dance performance and Turkish
Rock Music and Jazz from İstinye on the European folk music, along with dinner.
Istanbul has an increasing side. The bar becomes a disco Venues featuring top performers
number of bars and after midnight. Reina, also include Kervansaray, Orient
clubs playing open in summer House and Manzara.
good live music. only, is the city’s Whirling Dervishes perform
Hayal Kahvesi is a biggest nightspot, their traditional religious dances
bar dedicated to with a large dance at the Mevlevi Lodge (see p106)
jazz, rock and floor right beside in Galata on most Sundays.
blues by groups the Bosphorus, as
from Turkey and well as several
abroad. It also has bars and
an outdoor summer restaurants.
branch next to Blackk is a high-
the Bosphorus Musicians at the end club replete
in Çubuklu. Jazz Festival with lavish
Babylon is decoration and
Istanbul’s leading club venue jaw-dropping lighting and
and hosts performances on rock, sound systems. Uniquely for
electronic and world music. Ortaköy, it offers a fantastic
Nardis, located beneath Galata view of the Bosphorous. There
Tower, is the city’s best jazz club. is also a restaurant/lounge on
Peyote features a mix of live the upper floor. Supperclub
alternative rock and electronica. hosts a talented line-up of local
Roxy and Mojo present local and international DJs and
bands that fuse Turkish and shows atmospheric movies.
foreign musical styles. The Minimüzikhol and Indigo in
unique and low-key Salon Beyoğlu are popular among The traditional ut, a lute-like instrument
IKSV, backed by the Istanbul fans of electronic music. played in fasıl music
Cinemas Cihangir Yoga, are cheaper than Children

The latest foreign films are on in the rest of Europe and are Little in Istanbul has been
general release in Istanbul at very popular. designed with children in mind.
the same time as other European Nevertheless, there are many
countries. They are screened in things to interest children and
their original languages with Spectator Sports increasingly activities and sights
Turkish subtitles. Football has a large following in that will attract them.
Most of the city’s cinemas are Turkey. The three major Istanbul However, children are welcome
on İstiklal Caddesi. AFM Fitas teams, Beşiktaş JK, Fenerbahçe and will be made a fuss of almost
and Atlas tend to show a mix of SK and Galatasaray AS usually everywhere they go. With a little
mainstream and art-house films, qualify for European Cup thought you can find plenty of
while Yeşilçam only screens competitions every year. things for children to do.
art-house movies. There Horse racing takes The Turkuazoo Aquarium at
are also numerous place at Veli Efendi Forum Istanbul shopping centre
cinemas in Kadıköy, on Hipodromu racecourse is open daily and boasts an
the Asian side, while between 14 April and 80 metre (262 ft) underwater
all the main shopping 31 October, on tunnel.
centres have multi- Wednesdays, Fridays There are parks at Yıldız
screen cinemas, the and at weekends. In sum- (see pp126–7) and Emirgan
best being City Life in Galatasaray mer there are yacht (see p143), though the smaller
Nişantaşı's City Mall. team logo regattas in the Sea of Gülhane Park in Sultanahmet is
The first screening of the Marmara (see p47). For an more suitable for a visit with the
day is half-price, and many unusual spectator sport, head to family. Another park near
cinemas offer tickets at half-price Edirne at festival time, to see the Emirgan, the Park Orman, is
all day on Wednesdays. Students grease wrestling (see p156). a family complex situated in
with a valid card are entitled to woods, with picnic areas, a
a discount for all showings. swimming pool and a theatre.
There is usually an interval. Beaches Miniatürk in Sütlüce, on the
The best place to swim, water-ski edge of the Golden Horn,
and windsurf in Istanbul is the boasts an extensive model
Theatre Princes’ Islands (see p160). Yörükali village of miniature replicas of
Plays by Turkish and international Plajı, on Büyükada, is a public Turkey’s cultural landmarks, as
playwrights are staged in beach, but it is safe to swim well as restaurants, shops and a
Istanbul’s theatres, but only in anywhere around the islands. pool. The Rahmi M Koç
Turkish. A popular company is There are large beaches at Industrial Museum (see p129)
the Istanbul State Theatre. They Kilyos (see p160) and Gümüşdere and Santralistanbul Museum of
perform at theatres across the on the Black Sea, about 30 Energy (see p129) will appeal to
city, such as at the Cevahir stage minutes’ drive from central children. On the Princes’ Islands,
in the Cevahir Shopping and Istanbul, and Şile (see p160). where there are no cars, children
Entertainment Centre in Şişli, The Black Sea can be rough at can cycle safely, or take a tour in
the Küçük Sahne in Beyoğlu and times, however, with big waves a horse-drawn carriage. The Toy
the Üsküdar stage in Paşa Limanı. and dangerous undercurrents, Museum in Göztepe is the first
so always exercise caution on of its kind in Turkey. In Darica,
these beaches. The Marmara 28 miles (45 km) from Istanbul,
Health Clubs and Islands (see p171), are also the Faruk Yalçın Zoo has exotic
Sports Centres popular for their beaches. animals in natural habitats.
All the main five-star hotels have
good swimming pools and
welcome non-residents for a
daily fee. Health clubs such as
the Vakkorama Gym, the Alkent
Hillside Club and the Cihangir
Sports Center can also be used
by non-members for a daily fee.
At the edge of the Belgrade
Forest, the Kemer Country
Riding and Golf Club has stables
and a 9-hole golf course. It also
offers riding and golf lessons.
For ice-skaters, the rink in the
Galleria shopping centre (see
p211) is open to the public after
7pm. Skates are available for hire.
Yoga and detox centres, such as A theme park near Istanbul
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N I S TA N B U L 223
DIRECTORY
Booking Tickets Hayal Kahvesi Ulus 29 Cihangir Sports Center
(Çubuklu) A Adnan Saygun Cad, Sıraselviler Cad 118, Mavi
Akmerkez Burunbahçe Mevkii, Ulus Parki içi, Ulus. Plaza, Cihangir. Tel (0212)
Nispetiye Cad, Etiler. Çubuklu. Open May–Oct. 245 12 55.
Tel (0212) 358 29 29.
Tel (0212) 282 01 70. Tel (0216) 413 68 80. ∑ club29.com
Cihangir Yoga
Biletix Mojo Meclisi Mebusan Yokuşu
Tel (0216) 556 98 00. Büyük Parmakkapı Sok, Traditional
51, Cihangir.
∑ biletix.com Beyoğlu. Map 7 E4. Turkish Music
Tel (0539) 572 84 37.
Tel (0212) 243 29 27. and Dance
Capitol ∑ cihangiryoga.com
Mahir İz Cad, Altunizade. ∑ mojobeyoglu.net
Ece Kemer Country Riding
Tel (0216) 554 77 77. Nardis Jazz Club Tramvay Cad 104, and Golf Club
Kulebdibi Sok 14, Galata. Kuruçeşme. Göktürk Beldesi,Uzun
Galleria
Map 3 D1. Tel (0212) 244 Tel (0212) 265 96 00. Kemer Mevkii, Eyüp.
Sahil Yolu, Ataköy.
63 27. ∑ nardisjazz.com Tel (0212) 239 70 10.
Tel (0212) 559 95 60. Istanbulin Dinner
Peyote Show Vakkorama Gym
Vakkorama
Kamariye Sok 4, Balık Cumhuriyet Cad, Cebel Osmanlı Sok 13, Taksim.
Abdi İpekçi Cad 29,
Pazarı. Map 7 D4. Topu Sokak 2, Harbiye. Map 7 E4.
Nişantaşı. Map 7 E4.
Tel (0212) 251 43 98. Tel (0212) 291 84 40. Tel (0212) 251 15 71.
Tel (0212) 224 31 72.
∑ peyote.com.tr ∑ istanbulin.org
Festivals Salon IKSV Kervansaray Spectator Sports

Sadi Konuralp Cad 5, Cumhuriyet Cad 52/A, Beşiktaş JK
Istanbul Foundation Beyoğlu. Map 6 C5. Harbiye. Map 7 F2.
for Culture and Arts Vodafone Arena, Beşiktaş.
Tel (0212) 334 07 52. Tel (0212) 247 16 30.
Tel (0212) 334 07 00. Map 8 A4.
∑ saloniksv.com
∑ iksv.org Manzara Tel (0212) 227 87 80.
Shaft Conrad Hotel, Yıldız Cad, Fenerbahçe SK
Western Classical Osmancık Sok 13, Kadıköy. Beşiktaş. Map 8 C3.
Fenerbahçe Spor Kulübü,
Music and Dance Tel (0216) 349 99 56. Tel (0212) 227 30 00.
Kızıltoprak, Kadıköy.
∑ shaftclub.com Orient House Tel (0216) 345 09 40.
Aksanat Cultural
Tiyatro Cad 27, next to
Centre Clubs President Hotel, Beyazıt.
Galatasaray AŞ
İstiklal Cad 16, Taksim. Türk Telekom Arena.
Blackk Map 2 C4 (4 A4). Tel (0212)
Map 7 D4. Map 7 E4.
Muallim Naci Cad 71, 517 61 63. ∑orienthouse
Tel (0212) 252 35 00. Tel (0212) 259 59 19.
Ortaköy. Map 9 F2. istanbul.com
Cemal Reşit Rey Tel (0212) 236 72 56. Veli Efendi
Concert Hall (CRR) ∑ blackk.net Cinemas Hipodromu
Darülbedayi Cad, Türkiye Jokey Kulübü,
Indigo AFM Fitas Osmaniye, Bakırköy.
Harbiye. Map 7 F1.
Akarasu Sok 1/2, Beyoğlu. İstiklal Cad 24, Beyoğlu.
Tel (0212) 231 54 97. Tel (0212) 543 70 96.
Map 7 D4. Map 7 E4.
∑ ccrkonsersalonu.org
Tel (0212) 244 85 67. Tel (0212) 251 20 20. Children
Lütfi Kırdar Congress
Minimüzikhol Atlas
and Exhibition Faruk Yalçın Zoo
Soğancı Sok 7, İstiklal Cad 209, Beyoğlu.
Centre (ICEC) Tuzla Cad, Darica.
Beyoğlu. Map 7 E4. Map 7 D4.
Gümüş Cad 4, Tel (0212) 265 99 65.
Tel (0212) 245 19 96. Tel (0212) 252 85 76.
Harbiye. Map 7 F1.
∑ minimuzikhol.com Nişantaşı Citylife Miniatürk
Tel (0212) 373 11 00.
İmrahor Cad, Sütlüce.
∑ icec.org Reina Nişantaşı Shopping Mall,
Teşvikiye Cad 162. Map 8 Tel (0212) 222 28 82.
Muallim Naci Cad 44,
Rock Music A2. Tel (0212) 373 35 35. ∑ miniaturk.com.tr
Kuruçeşme. Map 9 F2.
and Jazz Tel (0212) 259 59 19. Yeşilçam Park Orman
∑ reina.com.tr İman Adna Sok 10. Fatih Çocuk Ormanı,
Babylon Maslak Cad, Maslak.
Şehbender Sok 3, Asmalı Roxy Tel (0212) 249 68 00.
∑ yesilcamsinemasi. Tel (0212) 285 95 47.
Mescit, Beyoğlu. Siraselviler Cad,
Tel (0212) 292 73 68. Aslanyatagi Sok 1–3, com Toy Museum
∑ babylon.com.tr Taksim Map 7 E4 Dr. Zeki Zeren Sokak 17,
Tel (0212) 249 1283. Health Clubs and Göztepe.
Hayal Kahvesi Sports Centres Tel (0216) 359 45 50.
(Beyoğlu) Supperclub
Büyükparmakkapı Muallim Naci Cad 65, Alkent Hillside Club Turkuazoo Aquarium
Sok 19, Beyoğlu. Ortaköy. Map 9 F2. Alkent Residential Bayrampaşa.
Map 7 E4. Tel (0212) 261 19 88. Complex, Tepecik Yolu, Tel (0216) 640 27 40.
Tel (0212) 244 25 58. ∑ supperclub.com Etiler. Tel (0212) 257 78 22. ∑ turkuazoo.com
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 226–235

Getting to Istanbul 236–237
Getting around Istanbul 238–245
Istanbul Street Finder 246–263
226 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Rapidly expanding Istanbul has the culture may seem strange to the foreign
transport, banking and medical facilities visitor, especially if you have never travelled
of any large modern city. However, in in a Muslim country. It is not considered
remoter suburbs of the city, and less- rude to stare and foreigners are objects
visited parts of the Bazaar Quarter, banks of attention in quarters less visited by
and ATM machines may be thin on the tourists. Istanbullu (Istanbul residents)
ground, so it is worth carrying a day’s supply are subject to the same pressures as
of Turkish lira. It also makes sense any modern urban dweller, but in
to carry the Istanbul Card travel pass general are friendly and hospitable,
(see p241), a mobile phone and/or and appreciate any effort to show
phonecard. Certain aspects of Turkish respect for their traditions.
When to Go Customs Information Tourist Information

With its hot, humid summers Only airports and main road The sign for a tourist information
and cold, wet winters, Istanbul is entry points offer a full customs office is a white “i” on a green
best visited in May and June or service. At major ports or background in a white box. The
September and October, when marinas, customs hours are
the weather is usually warm and 8:30am–5:30pm on weekdays.
sunny enough to enjoy open-air Outside these hours a fee must
cafés but not too hot to explore be paid to consult a customs
on foot. This said, mid-summer official. You can buy duty-free
temperatures seldom exceed items at the airport on entering
30°C (86°F) and sightseeing is the country. Visitors over
manageable if you avoid 18 years old can bring in
walking around in the midday reasonable amounts of coffee
heat. Bear in mind that you will (1.5 kg/3 lb), perfume (5 bottles), Travellers outside the tourist
need to be suitably dressed spirits (1 litre/34 fl oz) and information office in Sirkeci
(shoulders and knees must be cigarettes (200). There is no limit
covered) when visiting mosques on the amount of foreign offices themselves are named in
(see p227). The city is at its least currency or Turkish lira you can English and Turkish. They hand
busy (and best value) in winter, bring in. The maximum when out city maps and pamphlets
and the sights are all the leaving is US$5,000 (or Turkish with useful information. The main
better for the lack of crowds. lira equivalent). In practice, this is office in Sultanahmet Square, in
However, you may encounter rarely enforced. particular, will be able to answer
fog and rain so take a coat Turkey is very strict with questions on all aspects of your
and umbrella. regard to illegal drugs. Sniffer stay in Istanbul. Edirne, Bursa,
dogs are used at Atatürk and İznik and Çanakkale have offices
Sabiha Gökçen airports. You near the town centre. Most infor-
need to have a permit to export mation offices are open 9am–
antiquities (see p210). 5pm, Mon–Sat. Some stay open
later in summer, while the one in
the arrivals terminal of Atatürk
Visas and Passports airport is open 24 hours daily.
Visitors to Turkey should have
a full passport with at least six
months validity. Overstaying Admission Fees and
your visa incurs a fine, which Opening Hours
escalates rapidly. Citizens of Entry fees to Istanbul’s major
many countries require a visa, monuments and museums are
which must be purchased in comparable to elsewhere in
advance from www.evisa.gov.tr. Europe, although smaller, less
Visas are multi-entry and issued well known establishments are
for 180 days, out of which they considerably cheaper. In some
are valid for 90 days. monuments there is an
Requirements can and do additional charge for a special
change, so for up-to-date section, for example the Harem
information contact the Turkish in Topkapı Palace (see pp56–61).
Tourists on the steps of Dolmabahçe Palace consulate in your country or Most sights are closed one
on a sunny day visit www.mfa.gov.tr. day a week, usually Monday or
Trams cutting through a snowy street in Beyoğlu
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 227
Tuesday. Exhibits in the most-

visited museums are generally
labelled in Turkish and English.
Museum opening times are
usually 8:30 or 9am to 5 or
6pm, with a break for lunch
in smaller establishments. The
larger museums are often open
between 9am and 5pm from
November to March and 9am to
7pm from April to October.
Remember that it is best to
avoid mosques at prayer times
(see below).
Shops generally open from
8:30 or 9am to 7 or 8pm (see
p210). Shopping malls are open
from 10am to 10pm. For
information on opening times
of banks and exchange offices The venerable Blue Mosque (see pp80–81)
(döviz) see page 232.
Public offices are closed on drunk will get little sympathy. the minaret of the mosque.
Saturdays and Sundays, and Traditional rules of etiquette When visiting a mosque,
some shops on Sundays, although and hospitality are still an women and men should dress
shopping malls, supermarkets important aspect of Turkish appropriately. Most mosques
and small grocers are invariably society. Always show respect in Istanbul have a prominent
open seven days a week. for Atatürk (see p33), whose notice outside, in English,
picture you will see often. noting the entry requirements:
Discreet gay and lesbian cover your head (women) and
Etiquette visitors are unlikely to experi- bare shoulders (both sexes); no
In Istanbul around 10 per cent ence problems and Istanbul skirts above the knee or shorts;
of women cover their arms, legs has a lively gay scene, though remove shoes. Some mosques
and heads in public. Residents overt displays of affection are provide shawls to cover head,
of devout areas such as Fatih best kept to a minimum. arms and shoulders. Shoes are
(see pp112–15) may be offended Since 2009 smoking has been usually left on racks in the
at exposed limbs in the street. In prohibited in all enclosed spaces, entryway, but you may prefer
many areas such as Beyoğlu (see including government offices, to carry them with you as
pp103–109) most Turkish public transport, restaurants, bars theft is not unknown. Some
women dress as they choose and even nargile cafés, estab- mosques provide elasticated
and visitors can do the same, lishments devoted to smoking plastic bags to slip over your
except when visiting a mosque the traditional water pipe. shoes instead of removing
(see below). them. Make as little noise
Although areas like Beyoğlu as possible inside and show
are lined with bars and restaur- Visiting Mosques consideration for anyone
ants, most Turks drink alcohol in Most large mosques are open who is praying there.
moderation, and overt drunken- all day, closing after last
ness is frowned upon. Visitors prayers in the evening. Smaller
who transgress the law while mosques open only for the five Taxes and Tippıng
daily prayer times (namaz). The rate of VAT (KDV in Turkish)
At these mosques it may be varies between 1 and 23
difficult to gain entrance out- per cent, though the most
side prayer times unless there common rate is 18 per cent.
is a caretaker around to open It is included in hotel prices as
up for you. Non-Muslims well as in the purchase price
should refrain from entering of most goods and services.
any mosque during prayers. A service charge of 10 to
The times of prayer change 15 per cent is usually charged
throughout the year according in upmarket and licensed
to sunrise and sunset. They are restaurants and cafés, and
displayed on a board either it is customary to tip the
outside or inside the mosque, waiters here a further 5 per
but are always signalled by cent. Waiters working in
Wearing the veil, a matter of personal the call to prayer (ezan) from more basic establishments
choice for Turkish women a loudspeaker that is fixed to will also appreciate a gratuity.
228 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Language accessible to wheelchair users,

As a rule, Turks will make every although accessing some of the
effort to communicate with underground stations will be
foreigners. In areas frequented difficult. Other stations have
by tourists it is easy to find platforms with gentle ramps
English-speakers, but it is worth from street level (see p240).
making an effort to learn a few The Turkish Tourist Office
words and phrases in Turkish. in London publishes a guide
The Phrase Book on pages 279– to facilities for the disabled in
80 is a useful place to start. Turkey. This contains specific
details of hotels as well as
general information.
Public Conveniences The Turkish Association
Public toilets are thin for the Disabled (Türkiye
on the ground in Istanbul, Sakatlar Derneği) helps disabled
usually located in prominent people living in Istanbul, and
underpasses and at transport can arrange bus tours around
terminals. Entrances are marked the city for small groups of
Bay for men and Bayan for disabled tourists. Students outside the Moorish-style
women. The attendant sitting gateway of Istanbul University
outside, whom you pay on exit
(a sign generally shows the Women Travellers Students
charge), may supply toilet Women travelling in Turkey Apart from a small discount
paper, but it is a good may receive unwelcome on intercity trains, an ISIC
idea to carry tissues with attention from men, card is of little use in Turkey.
you. Fortunately, virtually but are rarely in danger Budget accommodation is
every mosque (of which of physical attack. To easy to find. In July and
there are many) has avoid harassment, dress August you can get a bed
facilities attached for respectably and look in a student dormitory through
both men and women. purposeful when the Sultanahmet tourist
Like public toilets, there is walking around. Avoid information office. There are
usually an attendant and being out alone at quite a few youth hostels (see
a small fee is charged. Sign for a night. Traditional cafés p185), and some cheap hotels
If you are reluctant to public toilet (see pp208–209) tend to and guesthouses in the city
use the squat toilets be male preserves, while centre (see pp186–9).
generally found in public and restaurants often have a section
mosque facilities, you can ask reserved for women and
to use the modern flush-style families (see p191). Photography
toilets in most restaurants, The Beyoğlu area of Istanbul, Museums do not usually charge
hotels or cafés. Museums and along with many of the more visitors for using cameras, but
major sights all have toilets prosperous suburbs, is a different there is often a charge for the
and, outside the city, motorway proposition, and women can use of a video camera. Flash is
service areas have excellent, and do go out and about without forbidden in most museums, as
free washroom facilities. male company, even at night. are tripods. Some mosques do
Travellers with
Special Needs
Istanbul has few facilities for
disabled people and the poor
state of the streets can make
it difficult to get around. Few
mosques allow wheelchairs,
but an increasing number of
museums are making provisions
for those with a disability. Toilets
with special facilities are also
very rare. Conversely, museum
staff and the public will go to
great lengths to assist with
entry to buildings, and there
are some low-level public
telephones and special access
buses (see p239). Trams are Groups of friends socializing at a café in Beyoğlu
not permit the use of a flash,

but discreet photography is
usually allowed. It is polite
to ask permission before taking
photographs of people.
Time
Turkey is 2 hours ahead of GMT
and BST.
Electricity
As in Europe, the electric current
is 220V AC. Plugs have two
round pins and adaptors are
readily available in Turkey. Colourful display of fruit and vegetables at a market stall
Responsible Tourism streets of Istanbul and other
Conversion Chart Traditionally, recycling is carried cities. Visitors should make use
out by members of the Roma of these when available.
Imperial to Metric community who, pulling hand- Electricity is expensive, so
1 inch = 2.54 centimetres
carts fitted with giant sacks, many Turks use solar-energy
1 foot = 30 centimetres
1 mile = 1.6 kilometres
scavenge through the large systems for their hot-water needs.
1 ounce = 28 grams waste bins left out on the street If you are serious about energy
1 pound = 454 grams for collection. Plastics, paper, conservation, check that your
1 pint = 0.6 litres metal and glass are sold to proposed accommodation has
1 gallon = 4.6 litres private operators for recycling. a system installed. For the same
Some Turks help by leaving reason low-energy light bulbs
Metric to Imperial recyclable materials next to bins have caught on in a big way here.
1 centimetre = 0.4 inches rather than putting them in – Street markets are abundant
1 metre = 3 feet, 3 inches visitors could do the same. in Istanbul (see pp214–15) and
1 kilometre = 0.6 miles Environmental awareness buying from them reduces the
1 gram = 0.04 ounces in Turkey is improving, with amount of packaging – try the
1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds municipality-controlled recycling Wednesday market (Çarşamba
1 litre = 1.8 pints
bins beginning to appear on the Pazarı) in Fatih.
DIRECTORY
Consulates Tourist Sultanahmet Square Presbyterian All
Information Divanyolu Cad 3, Saints Church
Australia Sultanahmet. Yusuf Kamil Sok Paşa 10,
Asker Ocağı Cad 15, Atatürk Airport Map 3 E4 (5 E4). Moda.
Elmadağ-Taksim. Map 7 International Arrivals Hall. Tel (0212) 518 18 02. Map 3 D5 (4 C5).
F3. Tel (0212) 243 13 33. Tel (0212) 465 31 51. Tel (0216) 449 39 74.
Religious Services
Canada Hilton Hotel Arcade Roman Catholic St
İstiklâl Cad 189/5, Anglican Christ Anthony of Padua
Cumhuriyet Cad,
Beyoğlu. Map 7 D4. Church (Crimean İstiklâl Cad 325,
Elmadağ.
Tel (0212) 251 98 38. Memorial Church) Galatasaray.
Map 7 F2. Serdar-ı Ekrem Sok 82, Map 7 D4.
New Zealand Tel (0212) 233 05 92. Tünel. Map 7 D5. Tel (0212) 244 09 35.
İnönü Cad 48/3, Taksim.
Karaköy International Tel (0212) 251 56 16.
Map 7 F4. Travellers with
Tel (0212) 244 02 72. Maritime Passenger Greek Orthodox St Special Needs
Terminal (Terminal 2). George’s Cathedral
United Kingdom Sadrazam Ali Paşa Cad 35, Turkish Association
Map 3 E1.
Meşrutiyet Cad 34, Fener. for the Disabled
Tel (0212) 249 57 76.
Tepebaşı. Map 7 D4. Tel (0212) 525 21 17. Tel (0212) 521 49 12.
Tel (0212) 334 64 00. Sirkeci Station ∑ tsd.org.tr
Jewish Neve Shalom
United States Sirkeci İstasyon Cad, Synagogue Turkish Tourist Office
Kaplıcalar Mevkii 2, Sirkeci. Büyük Hendek Cad 61, 170–73 Piccadilly, London
İstinye. Map 3 E3 (5 E1). Sişhane. Map 6 C5. W1V 9DD, UK.
Tel (0212) 335 90 00. Tel (0212) 511 58 88. Tel (0212) 293 75 66. Tel (020) 7839 7778.
230 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Personal Security and Health trouble, shout “imdat” (help)

to alert fellow passengers or
Istanbul is safer than many other European cities, and visitors officials. If necessary contact
rarely encounter violence. It is, however, a fast-growing city the Tourist Police. Women
with huge disparities between rich and poor, and burglary, travelling alone or in groups
without a male escort may
pickpocketing and petty theft are all on the rise. Keep an eye need to take extra care. After
on your valuables in crowded areas and do not wander the dusk, avoid the areas bordering
streets late at night on your own. The standard of health care the Old City walls as muggings
in the city is very good, with excellent private hospitals. For have taken place here. The
minor complaints, pharmacists will be able to provide advice. Tarlabaşı neighbourhood of
Beyoğlu is notorious for petty
theft, drug-dealing and
Police The navy-blue-uniformed prostitution, and Taksim
There are several police forces Market Police (Zabıta) is a Square, especially around the
in Turkey. The Security Police municipal police force, which Tarlabaşı Bulvarı exit, can be
(Emniyet Polisi), the city’s main patrols bazaars and other unsavoury at night.
force, wear dark-blue uniforms areas of commerce. Meetings are forbidden
and caps, and pale-blue shirts. The Military in Taksim Square
The Tourist Police (Turizm Police (Askeri İnzibat) but the upper
Polisi) is a branch of the Emniyet controls Turkey’s section of İstiklal
Polisi. Most officers have some many conscripts Caddesi, between
knowledge of one or two and officers wear an Galatasaray
European languages. The Tourist army uniform and Meydanı and
Police station in Sultanahmet, white helmet bear- Taksim Square, often
opposite the Basilica Cistern ing the abbreviation witnesses protests,
(see p78), is open 24 hours daily, “As İz”. The Gendarme Dolphin Motorbike which can lead to
and has an English–Turkish (Jandarma) polices Police badge heavy-handed policing.
translator available 8:30am rural areas. Do not leave
to 5pm Monday to Friday. valuables in your hotel room
The Dolphin Police (Yunus (use the hotel safe), and
Polisi) is a rapid-reaction branch What to be Aware of remember that Turkish law
of the Emniyet Polisi. Dolphin When looking after your requires that you carry ID,
officers ride motorbikes and personal safety use common preferably your passport (or at
wear black biking leathers with sense as you would in any large least a photocopy of it), at all
a red stripe. city. Be alert for pickpockets, times. Official tourist guides all
The Traffic Police (Trafik particularly at markets, as well carry photo ID around their
Polisi) wear the same blue as on public transport and necks – avoid any who do not.
uniform as the Emniyet Polisi at termini. Keep your cash Finally, make sure your taxi
but with a white belt, hat in a money belt and other driver turns on his meter
and gloves. Officers patrol valuables well out of sight. before setting off.
the streets in black and Carry bags on your front with
white cars equipped with the strap worn across your
loudspeakers. shoulder. In the event of any In an Emergency
For emergency telephone
numbers see the directory
opposite. If your condition is
serious or life-threatening you
should be treated automatically,
but carry your insurance details
with you to prove your ability to
pay. The state-run Taksim
Ilkyardım Hastanesi (Taksim
Emergency Hospital) has a
decent reputation. The American
and German hospitals listed in
the directory have emergency
dental practitioners.
Lost and Stolen Property

Turks are generally very honest
and will go to great lengths to
Security policeman Traffic policeman Dolphin policeman return lost property. It is worth
all over the city Travel and Health

offering treatment for Insurance
minor ailments, as well The state health system in
as private general Turkey has few reciprocal
practitioners (tibbi agreements with other countries
doktorlar) offering the and private hospital costs are
same services. high, so be sure to take out
The first port of travel and medical insurance
Fire engine call with a minor before you leave.
complaint, however,
should be a pharmacy
(eczane). Pharmacists DIRECTORY
are well-trained, Emergency Numbers
many speak some
English, and antibiotics Ambulance
can be purchased at Tel 112.
pharmacies without a
Fire Service
Turkish Security Police (Emniyet Polisi) car prescription. Outside
Tel 110.
opening hours, the
address of the nearest Hospital Call Line
nöbetçi eczane (duty Tel (0212) 444 09 11.
pharmacist) is
usually posted in the Police
pharmacy window. Tel 155.
Tourist Police
Yerebatan Cad 6, Sultanahmet.
State ambulance Minor Hazards
Map 3 E4.
Before leaving, Tel (0212) 527 45 03 or 528 53 69.
returning to the last place make sure that your basic
the item was seen, or going inoculations (diphtheria, polio, Lost Property
to the Tourist Police. Property typhoid and tetanus) are all
left on public transport can up to date. Check with your IETT Buses
be reclaimed from IETT Buses. doctor about hepatitis A and Tünel, Beyoğlu. Map 7 D5.
If you have anything stolen, hepatitis B vaccinations. Tel (0212) 245 07 20 ext 3205.
contact the Tourist Police. In Do not drink tap water
order to make an insurance (bottled water is readily Hospitals and
claim, you will need to give available everywhere), and Pharmacies
(and sign) a statement, exercise care when choosing
preferably at the Tourist Police restaurants and meals. Avoid American Admiral Bristol
station in Sultanahmet. anything that has been Hospital
standing around, especially Güzelbahçe Sok 20, Nişantaşı.
seafood, and only eat salads Map 8 A2. Tel (0212) 444 37 77.
Hospitals and in more upmarket restaurants. ∑ amerikanhastanesi.org
Pharmacies Some travellers to Turkey
Ayasofya Eczanesi
The Turkish health experience stomach upsets,
Divanyolu Cad 28, Sultanahmet
system has public and often as a result of the amount
of oil used in cooking or from Map 3 D4. Tel (0212) 513 72 15.
private hospitals. Both
are usually well drinking tap water. Cerrahpaşa Hospital
equipped but Take the usual Koca Mustafa Paşa Cad, Fatih.
state-owned precautions and Map 1 C5. Tel (0212) 414 30 00.
hospitals can be medicines in ∑ ctf.edu.tr
over-crowded and Sign for a state hospital in Şişli case you get ill.
bureaucratic. If you are still German Hospital
Private establish- unwell after 24 Sıraselviler Cad 119, Taksim.
ments tend to hours it is almost Map 7 E4. Tel (0212) 2448 26 18
be more efficient certainly some kind ∑ almanhastanesi.com.tr
and more comfort- Typical sign for a pharmacy of food poisoning
İstiklâl Eczanesi
able, have a higher in Istanbul and antibiotics
İstiklâl Cad 423, Beyoğlu
proportion of will be required.
Map 7 D4. Tel (0212) 2448 26 18.
English-speaking doctors, Mosquitoes can be a
and some run their own minor irritant, so bring Taksim Ilkyardım Hastanesi
ambulance services. some repellent from your Sıraselviler Cad 1, Taksim.
There are also a number home country or buy a Map 7 E4. Tel (0212) 252 4300.
of public clinics (poliklinik) plug-in locally.
232 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Banking and Currency

There is no limit to the amount of currency (foreign or Turkish)
you can bring into Turkey. Following decades of inflation, the
Turkish lira (Türk Lirası) has stabilized, with inflation running
at around 9 per cent in 2015. An indicator of this stability was
first seen in 2012 with the introduction of the ¨ symbol to
denote the currency. However, it should be noted that
although the prices of many goods are indicated using
the ¨ symbol or TRY, the old abbreviation for the Turkish
lira, TL, is still used in many places. For those visiting
Istanbul and its surrounding areas, it is easy to withdraw
money from ATMs and to pay for everything using credit Cash dispenser with instructions in a range
or debit cards. of languages
worth remembering that

Banks and Bureaux
With relatively modest inflation, using a debit or credit card
de Change
there is no need to worry about at an ATM involves a fee.
Most private banks, such as exchanging foreign currency
Garanti and Yapıkredi, are open at the most beneficial time.
Traveller’s Cheques and
9am–5pm Mon–Fri and some Exchange offices (döviz) still exist,
Credit Cards
bigger branches also offer limited but not in the numbers they
Saturday opening. State banks, once did. Well-established offices Credit and debit cards,
such as Ziraat, close 12:30– include Bamka Döviz in Taksim along with ATMs, have made
1:30pm. Banks can be found and Çetin Döviz on İstiklâl traveller’s cheques almost
in all main areas, on Divanyolu Caddesi. Döviz are open for longer obsolete. Travellers are advised
Caddesi in Sultanahmet and on hours than banks, and also on not to bring them into Turkey
İstiklâl Caddesi in Beyoğlu. The İş Saturdays, but the exchange because they are difficult
Bankası at Atatürk airport is open rate is often better in banks. to cash. If you need to have
24 hours daily. Apart from Turkish large sums of money to hand,
banks, there are many foreign consider using a money-
ATMs
banks like Citibank and HSBC, order (havale) service such as
with familiar logos and services. ATMs are found outside all Western Union. They have an
Most banks have an banks and near major tourist, association with the Turkish
automated queuing system. business and shopping areas. Post Office (PTT – see p235) and
Take a numbered ticket from the They accept most debit cards, some banks. This is a safe and
dispenser (for currency exchange allowing you to withdraw the
there is usually a button marked equivalent of about £250 DIRECTORY
döviz) and wait for your number daily. There is an English-
to flash up on screen. language option on every Banks and Bureaux
Several Turkish banks have machine. You can also use de Change
outlets at airports, offering a some credit cards such as
Bamka Döviz
full range of banking services. MasterCard and Visa. It is
Cumhuriyet Cad 23, Taksim.
Map 7 E3. Tel (0212) 253 70 00.
Çetin Döviz
İstiklal Cad 39, Beyoğlu.
Map 7 E4. Tel (0212) 225 64 28.
Ziraat Bankası
Yeniçeriler Cad 55, Beyazıt
Map 2 C4 (4 B3).
Tel (0212) 517 06 00.
Credit Cards
American Express
Tel (0212) 444 25 25.
Diners Club, VISA,
MasterCard and Eurocard
Tel (0212) 225 00 80.
A branch of HSBC in Istanbul
speedy, although expensive, accepted, but check before (see p184). If you buy an airline
way to transfer money. leaving that your card is valid ticket from a travel agent
Credit cards, such as VISA internationally. Ensure you however, they will charge
and MasterCard, and, to a lesser know your PIN because swipe about 3 per cent commission.
extent, American Express and readers use chip and PIN
Diners Club are universally protocol. It is also a good idea
accepted in hotels, shops and to inform your bank of your Currency
restaurants. Smaller restaurants travels so that they expect your The Turkish currency is known
and grocery stores, however, card to be used in Turkey. as the Turkish lira (TL) or, more
may not accept card payment. There is no commission officially (as your credit card
A number of debit cards issued on paying with credit cards, statement will show), TRY. A
by international banks, such though many hotels offer ¨ symbol for the currency was
as HSBC and Citibank, are also discounts for paying with cash introduced in 2012. The sub-
division of the lira is the kuruş,
Banknotes with 100 kuruş equalling 1 lira.
Turkish banknotes come in six denominations: 200 TL, 100 TL, 50 The lowest denomination note
TL, 20 TL, 10 TL and 5 TL, and each denomination has its own is ¨5, the highest ¨200. Beware
distinctive colour. All the notes display the head of Atatürk on the that some Turks, out of habit,
front, with other Turkish notables on the reverse. Those shown here still talk in old, hyper-inflated lira
are 50 TL, 20 TL, 10 TL and 5 TL. terms, asking bir milyon (one
million) for a glass of tea (1 lira).
You are allowed to take up to
US$5,000 out of Turkey in cash.
50 lira
20 lira
10 lira
Coins
Coins are in denominations of
1 kuruş, 5 kuruş, 10 kuruş, 25 kuruş
5 lira
and 50 kuruş, and 1 lira (100 kuruş).
All coins feature Atatürk on one side.
1 lira 50 kuruş 25 kuruş 10 kuruş 5 kuruş

234 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Communications and Media city. The SIM card costs around

¨50 but is usually sold as
All major cities in Turkey enjoy easy access to efficient high- part of a package, with
speed Internet and broadband connections. Internet cafés calling credit.
abound, though they are now being challenged by an ever- A phone brought in from
increasing number of places offering wireless connection. outside Turkey will be blocked
The formerly state-owned company, Türk Telekom, has a for use here within a week
to 10 days. This is part of a
monopoly on all fixed-line telecommunications. government regulation to
Post offices are clearly identified by the letters PTT and, prevent Turkish phones from
although slow, the postal service is fairly reliable. Making being undermined by cheaper
phone calls from counter-top metered phones within a PTT ones, smuggled in from
building is economical, and many change foreign currency other countries.
and offer the Western Union service for sending and
receiving money. Public Telephones
Dozens of Turkish papers vye for readers’ attention, Telephone calls in Istanbul
ranging from the pro-Islamic to the staunchly secular, and can be made from public
all persuasions in between. Satellite TV has revolutionized phone boxes, post offices
the country’s once staid, parochial broadcasting, and many (PTT) and Türk Telekom (TT)
centres using phonecards.
foreign-language channels are widely available.
The Alokart, with its scratch-
off code, allows you to make
International and Local Mobile Phones
Telephone Calls Mobile (cell) phones are
Istanbul has two area codes, essential items in modern
0212 (European side) and 0216 Turkey. The market is dominated
(Asian side). When calling a by three players – Turkcell,
number within the same Vodafone and Avea. Most
area, it is not necessary visitors with a roaming facility
to use the code. can use their existing mobile
When calling the European phone as they would at home Chipped Türk Telekom Kontörlü
side from the Asian, you because Turkey uses the prepaid phonecard
must prefix the number standard 900 or 1800 MHz
with 0212; use the prefix frequencies. Most North calls from any landline in
0216 when calling the Asian American phones are not Turkey. Chipped Türk Telekom
side from the European. compatible with the Turkish Kontörlü cards are available
To call another city in system and will not work here. in units of 50, 100, 200 and
Turkey, use the appropriate It costs less to make calls 350. Both can be purchased
area code, for example from a Turkish SIM than to at PTT and TT centres and, for
0224 for Bursa. To make an pay roaming charges. For an additional charge, from
international call from short stays in the country, street sellers and kiosks.
Turkey, dial 00 followed by consider buying a SIM card
the code for the country, from a local mobile operator.
eg: Australia: 61; US and All the three main phone Internet Access
Canada: 1; New Zealand: companies have sales outlets Istanbul has plenty of Internet
64; Republic of Ireland: 353 at Atatürk and Sabiha Gökçen cafés, although they are in short
and UK: 44. airports, as well as across the supply in the major tourist hub
of Sultanahmet. Hourly rates
are very modest. The Turkish
keyboard can be frustrating
to use so ask for help. Look out
for the dotless Turkish “ı”, for
example, which will render web
and email addresses invalid if
used inadvertently. The “@” sign
is usually made by pressing
the “alt” and “q” keys at the
same time.
Wireless Internet (Wi-Fi)
connection is now found in
many hotels and guesthouses
and, although some business-
Public telephone boxes in Istanbul oriented hotels charge, it is
delivery in three days within satellite TV but check before

Turkey. Local courier companies booking if you particularly
such as Aras Kargo and Yurtiçi want foreign channels.
Kargo will deliver letters and The state-owned TRT
parcels in Turkey in a day or so at (Türk Radyo ve Televizyon)
a comparable price. has 16 television channels
and 14 radio stations. TRT3
radio (FM 88.2) broadcasts
Newspapers and news bulletins in English,
Magazines French and German.
Turkey has three English-
language daily papers, the DIRECTORY
liberal, pro-Islamic Today’s
Zaman, the nationalist, secular Mobile Phones
Hürriyet Daily News and the Avea
pro-AKP government Daily Tel 444 15 00.
Sabah. All of them give round- ∑ avea.com.tr
Woman using free Wi-Fi point in a street ups of Turkish and foreign
in Istanbul news. Foreign newspapers Turkcell
and magazines can be obtained Tel 444 05 32.
usually free. Most hotels also from newsstands wherever there ∑ turkcell.com.tr
have fixed terminals where you are substantial numbers of Vodafone
can check your mail. Many cafés tourists or foreign residents. Tel 444 05 42.
in the city now offer wireless For current events listings try ∑ vodafone.com .tr
connection free of charge. The Guide (see p220), which also
has good features on Istanbul Postal Services
and Turkish culture, or Time Out
Postal Services Istanbul. Both are available
Aras Kargo
Alayköşku Cad 2.
Post offices are found from larger newsagents and
Map 3 E4 (5 E3).
throughout Istanbul. There are bookshops. ∑ araskargo.com.tr
large branches, with a full range
of postal services, in Sirkeci, PTT
Taksim and Karaköy. Other Television and Radio Karaköy: Kürekçiler
locations are marked on the Satellite TV has blossomed in Cad 25–7.
Street Finder (see pp246–63). Turkey, with dozens of channels Map 3 D1.
Opening hours are usually vying for viewers. Widely Sirkeci: Büyük Postane
8:30am–5:30pm Monday to available foreign news channels Cad 1.
Friday and 8:30am–noon on include BBC World, CNN and Al Map 5 D1.
Sultanahmet: Ayasofya
Saturday. Stamps are only Jazeera, with English-language
Meydanı Cad 1.
available from post offices. entertainment provided by
Map 3 E4.
Letters and postcards can CNBCE, E2, BBC Entertainment
Taksim: Taksim Square.
be handed over the counter at and MTV. For foreign sports, look
Map 7 E3.
post offices or posted in letter out for Eurosport and Spormax. ∑ ptt.gov.tr
boxes, which are yellow and Most hotels receive global
labelled PTT. Common signs Yurtiçi Kargo
indicating which box or slot to Meşrutiyet Cad 102.
put your letter in are: Şehiriçi Map 7 D4.
(local), Yurtiçi (domestic) ∑ yurticikargo.com
and Yurtdışı (international).
Use air mail (uçak ile) when
Newspapers and
posting items abroad as surface
Magazines
post is slow. If you want to send Daily Sabah
a parcel by surface mail, use ∑ dailysabah.com
registered (kayıtlı) post. The
The Guide
contents of a package must be
∑ theguideistanbul.com
inspected at the post office, so
take tape with you to seal your Hürriyet Daily News
parcel at the counter. Letters ∑ hurriyetdailynews.com
and postcards to the rest of Time Out Istanbul
Europe take around a week, but ∑ timeoutistanbul.com
may take twice as long to reach
other continents. A recorded Today’s Zaman
delivery service (called APS) is Newspaper stand outside the ∑ todayszaman.com
available from post offices, with Topkapı Palace
236 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
GETTING TO ISTANBUL
The easiest way to reach Istanbul is to fly to carriers fly into Atatürk Airport, but
one of the city’s two international airports, many budget and charter firms use Sabiha
Atatürk Airport, on the European side of Gökçen. There are well-established coach
the city, or Sabiha Gökçen on the Asian services between Istanbul and several
side. Turkish Airlines (THY) offers regular, European cities, and a more rudimentary
direct flights from more than 100 rail service. There are no direct ferry sailings
destinations worldwide. Several major from Europe, although cruises of the
European carriers, such as Lufthansa and Aegean and Mediterranean usually include
KLM, also fly direct to Istanbul. Most a one-day stopover in Istanbul.
¨11. The bus stop, marked

“Havaş”, is situated outside
the main doors of the arrivals
hall. Stops include Aksaray,
(from where tram/taxis run to
Sultanahmet), and it terminates
in Taksim Square (see p109).
The most economical way to
the city centre is by metro and
tramway. Buy two tokens (jeton)
at the airport terminus of the
metro or take a combination of
metro and tram. For Old City/
Sultanahmet, take the M1 Metro
to Zeytinburnu, and then take
the T1 tram. For Galata, Beyoğlu
or Taksim, take the M1 Metro to
Planes parked at Atatürk Airport Yenikapı, and then the M2 Metro
to either Şişhane or Taksim. To
Arriving by Air Atatürk Airport use the system, buy an Istanbul
Turkey’s main international Istanbul’s Atatürk Airport Card (see p241) from a vending
airline, Turkish Airlines (THY), (Atatürk Hava Limanı) lies machine and top it up with
has direct flights to Istanbul 25 km (16 miles) west of credit, or buy a couple of jeton.
from all major cities in Europe the city centre in Yeşilköy.
and some in Asia. KLM and Its huge international
British Airways both have at (Dış Hatları) terminal and Sabiha Gökçen Airport
least one flight daily to Istanbul. separate domestic (İç Hatları) Many domestic carriers
A number of budget airlines terminal are internally and budget international
also serve Istanbul’s airports. connected by a series of airlines use Sabiha Gökçen
These include EasyJet, which moving walkways; the walk Airport. Set in the suburbs
connects the UK with Sabiha between them takes about of Asian Istanbul, 32 km
Gökçen airport, the Turkish 5 minutes. (20 miles) southeast of
carrier Pegasus, which flies The international terminal the city centre, it has car
into both Istanbul airports from has all the facilities you would hire outlets, banks, duty-
the UK and several European expect, including 24-hour free shops and cafés.
cities, and Atlas Global, with banking, car hire outlets, A taxi ride to Taksim takes
flights from Luton. German/ tourist information and a hotel 1 hour and costs about ¨95.
Turkish carrier Sunexpress reservation desk. Allow at least 2 Havaş buses travel to Taksim half-
serves Sabiha Gökçen airport hours to check in for departures hourly between 4am and 1am.
from many northern from busy Atatürk Airport. The 1-hour journey costs ¨14.
European countries. Taxis (see p238) wait The cheapest option is to
Turkish Airlines flies direct to outside the arrivals hall of the take the IETT (see p239) E3
Istanbul from Chicago and New international terminal. The fare bus to IV Levent, then the
York, and Delta Airlines, among to Taksim or Sultanahmet will metro to Taksim. Alternatively,
others, also has regular direct be about ¨50. take the E10 bus to Kadıköy
flights from New York. American The airport bus is a cheaper and the ferry across the
Airlines, Qatar Airways and way of getting to the city Bosphorus to Eminönü
several other international centre. Buses depart every half- (for Sultanahmet). The E3
carriers serve the city, but not hour between 4am and 1am, operates every 15 minutes
always directly. take 30–40 minutes and cost between 6am and 11:10pm;
G E T T I N G TO I S TA N B U L 237
and Thessalonica, among other DIRECTORY

European cities, while Varan
coaches depart from Berlin, Arriving by Air
Prague and Vienna. For services American Airlines
from the UK, contact Eurolines. Tel (1 800) 433 7300 (US).
Coaches arrive at Esenler ∑ aa.com
coach station (otogar), 10 km
(6 miles) northwest of Istanbul Atlas Global
city centre. Esenler is also the ∑ atlasglb.com
A modern tram on the ancient streets main terminal for domestic British Airways
of Istanbul connections (see p244). Coach Tel (0870) 850 9850 (UK).
companies usually operate ∑ britishairways.com
the E10 runs very frequently a courtesy minibus to the city
Delta Airlines
between 5am and 3:30am. centre. If not, take the metro,
Tel (0800) 414 767 (UK).
(see pp240–41) from the otogar
Tel (404) 765 5000 (US).
to Aksaray, or the IETT 91 bus to
Arriving by Rail ∑ delta.com
Eminönü, or 830 bus to Taksim.
The Orient Express (see p68) no EasyJet
longer runs as far as Istanbul. Tel (0871) 244 2366 (UK).
The overland route, which takes Arriving by Car ∑ easyjet.com
two days, is from Munich via Drivers bringing cars into Turkey KLM
Vienna, Budapest and Bucharest. must show registration docu- Tel (0871) 222 740 (UK).
Information can ments and a valid Tel (1 866) 434 0320 (US).
be obtained on driving licence at ∑ klm.com.tr
The Man in Seat the port of entry.
61 website, but Your passport will Pegasus Airlines
bookings are Motorway sign showing Turkish and be stamped to Tel (0845) 0848 980 (UK).
best done European road numbers show you have ∑ flypgs.com
via European brought in a Qatar Airways
Rail Ltd. vehicle, and you cannot leave ∑ qatarairways.com
Major transport infrastructure the country without it. You will
Sunexpress
projects are underway in also be issued a certificate by
∑ sunexpress.com
Istanbul. Trains from Europe the Turkish customs authorities
will terminate at Halkalı, 16 km and this should be carried at Turkish Airlines (THY)
(10 miles) west of the city all times, with your driving ∑ turkishairlines.com
centre, with onward travel on licence and passport. You must
the new metro system. have a Green Card (available Airports
from your insurance company) Atatürk Airport
if arriving from Europe, and Tel (0212) 444 08 49.
Arriving by Coach appropriate insurance. A fire ∑ ataturkairport.com
The Turkish coach companies extinguisher, a first-aid kit and
Ulusoy and Varan operate two hazard warning triangles Sabiha Gökçen Airport
direct services from several are mandatory. Driving in Tel (0216) 585 50 00.
European cities to Istanbul, with Istanbul is taxing and public ∑ sgairport.com
tickets available online. Ulusoy car parks (otopark or katlıotopark)
coaches depart from Munich are scarce and often full. Arriving by Rail
European Rail Ltd
∑ raileurope.com
The Man in Seat 61

∑ seat61.com
Arriving by Coach
Eurolines
Tel (08717) 818181 (UK).
∑ eurolines.com
Ulusoy
Tel (0212) 444 18 88.
∑ ulusoy.com.tr
Varan
Tel (0212) 444 89 99.
∑ varan.com.tr
The Bosphorus Bridge, one of two major road bridges
238 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
GETTING AROUND
ISTANBUL
Central areas are generally well served by in late 2013. It links the European and
metro and tram lines. Buses and dolmuşes Asian parts of the city. On its completion,
provide city-wide transport, but roads and the Marmaray system, most of it under-
vehicles can be extremely crowded at rush- gound, will cover a distance of almost
hour times. Ferries and water taxis ply the 70 km (43 miles). See the map inside
Bosphorus and, to a lesser extent, the the back cover for more information
Golden Horn. The Bosphorus tunnel, which on Istanbul’s ever-expanding public
houses the Marmaray Metro line, opened transport network.
(see pp112–15) have relatively and cabs operate day and

little traffic. For specialist tour night. They can be hailed in
companies offering walking the street or found at taxi ranks.
tours around the city see Hotel and restaurant staff can
page 239. always phone for a taxi.
Bear in mind that traffic Cabs are bright yellow, with
only stops at pedestrian the word “taksi” on a sign on
crossings controlled by lights, the roof. They take up to four
and always make use of passengers. The fare is charged
pedestrian overpasses according to a meter.
and underpasses on If you cross the
main roads. Bosphorus Bridge the
Istanbul, like any city, bridge toll will be added
has parts that should be to the fare. The driver will
avoided (see p230). If you not expect a tip unless
Visitors strolling in front of the serene Blue are planning to walk in he has helped you load
Mosque (see pp80–81) areas off the usual tourist luggage, but it is usual
track seek local advice, to round up the fare
Green Travel take extra care and do not Sign for a to the nearest
It is possible to walk between walk in unfamiliar streets pedestrian convenient figure.
many of Istanbul’s major sights after dark. underpass Most taxi drivers speak
(see below), and the vast little, or no, English.
majority of the further-flung They may not be familiar with
points of interest can be easily Taxis routes to lesser-known sights,
reached by public transport. Taxis are ubiquitous in Istanbul. so carry a map and have the
Sadly, due to traffic congestion Fares are cheap in relation to name of your destination
and lack of cycle routes, few other major European cities written down.
people brave the city by bicycle.
Some of the city’s buses use
natural gas, as do most taxis,
and the Metrobuses (see p239)
have fuel-efficient, environmen-
tally friendly hybrid engines.
Walking
The development of semi-
pedestrianized zones, such
as İstiklâl Caddesi and central
Sultanahmet, and walking/
jogging routes on the shores
of sections of the Sea of
Marmara and Bosphorus, has
made it possible to walk with
ease around some parts of
Istanbul. Quieter areas of the
city, like Eyüp (see pp122–3) and
parts of Fatih, Fener and Balat Taxis queueing for customers at a ferry port
G E T T I N G A R O U N D I S TA N B U L 239
If you are approached by people

offering their services as tour
guides, make sure you see their
photo ID, make it clear what you
want to see and agree a fee. If
you have little time, or do not
wish to travel by public transport,
it may be worth negotiating a
private tour or visit to a sight
with a taxi driver. This is best done
through your hotel. For a city
tour on a double-decker, try
A Plan Tours sightseeing bus Big Bus City Tours. Buses start
outside Haghia Sophia and
Dolmuşes kiosks and private vendors near Taksim. There are two different
Dolmuşes are shared minibuses bus shelters. routes, one of which
with fixed routes. The name You enter at the front of the includes Asia.
derives from the Turkish word bus and exit by the rear doors.
dolmuş (“stuffed” or “full”), and Push the button above the door DIRECTORY
drivers usually wait until every or attached to the railings to alert
seat is taken before setting off. the driver that you wish to alight Getting around by Bus
Dolmuşes run throughout the at the next stop. A list of stops is
IETT (Istanbul Omnibus
day until mid-evening, and later displayed on the side of buses
Company)
on busy routes. or on a video screen. Most buses
Erkan-ı Harp Sok No. 4, Beyoğlu.
Points of origin and final run from 6am until 10 or 11pm.
Map 7 D5.
destinations are displayed in the The large Metrobuses run on
front windows. Fares generally dedicated lanes. The first line Tel (0800) 211 60 68, (0800) 211
range between ¨4 and ¨6, completed is of little interest 61 20. ∑ iett.gov.tr
and you pay by handing your to visitors, but a line planned
money to the driver or another between Edirnekapı and Guided Tours
passenger to pass forward. To Vezneciler will link the city walls Backpackers Travel
stop the vehicle, simply say to with the Bazaar Quarter. Yeni Akbıyık Cad 22, Sultanahmet.
the driver “inecek (pronounced Map 3 D4 (5 D3).
eenejek) var” (“somebody wants Useful Bus Routes Tel (0212) 638 63 43.
to get out”).
∑ backpackerstravel.net
Dolmuş stops are marked by 15 Üsküdar – Beykoz
a blue sign with a black “D” on a 15/A Beykoz – Anadolu Kavağı Big Bus City Tour
white background. From Taksim, 22 Kabataş – İstinye Aya Sofya Karşısı 1, Sultanahmet.
destinations include Aksaray, 25/A Hacıosman Metro – Rumeli Tel (0212) 283 13 96.
Beşiktaş, Kadıköy and Topkapı, Kavağı ∑ bigbustours.com
and vehicles depart from the 28 Edirnekapı – Beşiktaş
28/T Topkapı – Beşiktaş Fest Travel
Taksim end of Tarlabaşı Bulvarı,
37/E Eminönü – Edirnekapı Barbaros Bulvarı, 74/20, Beşiktaş.
and where İsmet İnönü Caddesi
exits Taksim. 40 Taksim – Sariyer Map 8 C2.
80 Eminönu – Yedikule Tel (0212) 216 10 36.
81 Eminönu – Yeşilköy ∑ festtravel.com.tr
Getting around by Bus 86/V Vezneciler – Edirnekapı
Istanbul Eats
Inner-city buses are operated ∑ istanbuleats.com.tr
by two companies, both under
municipal jurisdiction. IETT Istanbul Tour Studio
(Istanbul Omnibus company) Guided Tours Halaskargazi Cad 6, Şişli.
buses are red and the Several tour operators run Tel (0533) 355 30 49.
environmentally friendly ones special-interest tours of Istanbul, ∑ istanbultourstudio.com
(yeşil motor) are green and run as well as general guided tours Istanbul Walks
on natural gas. Özel Halk of the city and further afield,
Şifahamamı Sok, Sultanahmet.
(public) buses are mainly light including Backpackers Travel,
Tel (0212) 516 63 00.
blue and/or green. For a map Fest Travel and Turista. Istanbul
∑ istanbulwalks.net
of useful bus routes see the Tour Studio has more offbeat
pull-out map. tours, Istanbul Walks Turista Travel
IETT buses accept only concentrates on walking tours Divanyolu Cad 16, Sultanahmet.
the Istanbul Card travel pass and Istanbul Eats offers Map 3 D4 (5 D4).
(see p241). The pass can be backstreet culinary tours. For Tel (0212) 518 65 70.
purchased from main bus more companies offering trips ∑ turistatravel.com
departure centres, newsagents, outside Istanbul see page 245.
240 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting around by Metro and Tram

Travelling in Istanbul by Metro and tram is surprisingly easy. through Aksaray and
A tunnel under the Bosphorus opened in 2013, making it Sultanahmet. The line then
possible to cross from the European side of the city to the crosses the Galata Bridge (see
inside back cover) and
Asian part by Metro. A new bridge across the Golden Horn continues to Kabataş, offering
links the Metro system in the Old City and its surroundings plenty of sightseeing spots
with the entertainment quarter of Beyoğlu and Taksim in the along the way.
north. A modern tram runs through the heart of the Old City To access the tramway
and across the Golden Horn to Karaköy and the ferry purchase a token (jeton),
terminal at Kabataş. which operates the turnstile
(these also accept the Istanbul
Card travel pass).
Trams travel on the right-
hand side of the street, so be
sure to stand on the correct
platform. Trams are frequent,
running every 5 minutes
between 6am and midnight.
It should be noted that during
rush hours and on domestic
holidays, the trams tend to get
very crowded. Try not to sit or
stand too far from the sliding
doors, or you may find yourself
A tram on Istanbul’s modern tramway system pushing and shoving to get off
at the right stop.
Tramway Istanbul Transportation Co.
Istanbul’s tramway system is The most useful to visitors is
modern and efficient, but it the T1 tram line, which runs Metro
can be very crowded at peak from Zeytinburnu (where it The M1 Metro runs east into
times. There are several tram connects with the M1 Metro the city centre from Atatürk
lines in the city, run by the coming in from Atatürk Airport) Airport, with a few sections
Hacıosman
Tram and Metro Route Map Key
The most useful Metro lines for Metro IV Levent

visitors are M1 and M2. The Tramway Lines under construction
is mainly an above-ground, electrified Tramway Levent
rail system.
Light railway
Gayrettepe
Tramway
Nostalgic Tram
Şişli-
Mecidiyeköy
Funicular
Kirazlı Habibler Osmanbey
Kartaltepe
Otogar Demirkapı
Sağmalcılar
Sehitlik
us
or
Esenler
G
Edirnekapı Taksim ph
ol
en s
d
Terazidere Ho Kabataş Bo
Bayrampaşa- Şişhane
rn
Maltepe Findikli
Üsküdar
Topkapı- Tünel Tophane
Vatan Ulubatli
Haliç
Davutpaşa Y.T.Ü. Karaköy
Fetihkapı Emniyet- Kartal
Eminönü
Fatih
Topkapı Vezneciler Ayrılık Çeşmesi
Sirkeci
Aksaray
Merter Cevizlibağ Findizade
A.Ö.Y. Haydarpaşa
Bağcılar Yusufpaşa
Merkez
Efendi Söğütlücesme
Aksemsettin
Kadıköy Gebze
Mithatpaşa
Zeytinburnu
Sea of Mar mara
Airport
underground. It operates of 1.5 km (just under 1 mile) DIRECTORY

between 6am and midnight. along İstiklal Caddesi from
The key stops are Zeytinburnu Tünel to Taksim Square. On the Tramway
(for connecting to the T1 Asian side, the tram runs from
tramway) and Otogar, for Kadıköy along Bahariye Caddesi Istanbul
the intercity bus station. to Moda. Both run from 7am to Transportation Co.
Tel (0212) 568 99 70.
The Aksaray stop 8pm. The trams are
∑ istanbul-ulasim.com.tr
connects to the T1 the original early
tramway but it 20th-century
involves a short vehicles, taken out of When purchasing an Istanbul
walk. This can be service in 1966 but Card, you pay for a number
awkward with revived in 1989. The of units in advance and a
luggage because ticket collectors wear refundable ¨6 deposit for the
there is a bridge. period costume. The card itself. The card can be
The M2 Metro Istanbul Card can be topped up any time at kiosks
runs from Yenikapı, used on both. or at distinctive orange
across the Golden vending/recharging machines
Horn to the Aerial view of Golden Horn located near transport stops.
Hacıosman station. Metro Bridge Istanbul Card To use, place the Istanbul
The Metro is clean, The Istanbul Card Card in the proximity of a fare
well-run and the cars (Istanbulkart) is a travel pass point, on a turnstile or boarding
are air-conditioned. that can be used on the entire point, and the amount due will
Many of the Metro stations public transport system be automatically deducted.
are underground and in Istanbul: tramway, One card can be
passengers have to go Metro, city buses, used for any number
through a series of moving ferries and sea buses. of passengers.
stairs and ramps to get to or It is a prepaid An Istanbul Card
from the platform. Lifts are and rechargeable saves passengers a
available but are often busy. contactless smart- Istanbul Card considerable amount
Journey tokens (jeton) card. The card can be of money as each
purchased on entry, operate bought from main bus journey with a token (jeton)
the turnstiles for both the tram stations and other public costs ¨4 but only ¨2.15 with
and the Metro. Alternatively, transport ticket offices or the card. Fares come down
you can use an Istanbul Card. from vending machines even more on journeys
at major stops, such as made within 1.5 hours of
Atatürk Airport. each other.
Cable Cars and Funiculars
A cable car connects the
shores of the Golden Horn in
Eyüp with the Eyüp cemetery
and tea gardens, and runs
between 8am and 10pm daily.
There is also a cable car in
Maçka Park, which is open
from 8am to 8pm daily.
Inaugurated in 1875, the
Tünel is a French-built under-
ground railway. It climbs steeply
from Karaköy to Tünel Square in
Beyoğlu, where it connects with
the period tram on İstiklâl
Caddesi. The Karaköy station
is set back from the main road
just off the Galata Bridge (see
p91). The Tünel closes at
10:45pm. A useful modern
funicular links Taksim Square
with the ferry terminal at
Kabataş from 6am to midnight.
The Nostalgic Tram

The Nostalgic Tram (Nostaljik
Tramvay) covers a distance A red tram travelling through crowded İstiklâl Caddesi
242 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting around by Boat

The most pleasant and relaxing means of getting around
Istanbul is by the innumerable waterborne craft which ply the
Bosphorus between the European and Asian sides. These
range from water taxis and small, privately operated ferries to
larger ferries and high-speed catamarans. As well as being a
relatively fast way to get around, a ride on a boat will also
provide some great views of the city.
Şehirhatları. The principal ferry Passengers disembarking from a

terminus on the European side ferry, a popular mode of travel
is at Eminönü (see p89), just east
of the Galata Bridge. Destinations Haydarpaşa and Kadıköy. The
served from here, clearly labelled international dock, where
on the relevant boarding halls cruise liners berth, is also here.
at each pier, include Kadıköy, There are ferries from Eminönü
Haydarpaşa and Üsküdar on the to Kadıköy between 7am and
Asian shore. There is also a pier 9pm, and from Eminönü to
Old ferries at Karaköy, from which ferries marked “Boğaz Hattı” for the Üsküdar between 6am and
run to Haydarpaşa and Kadıköy Bosphorus cruises (see p243), 11:30pm, every 15 minutes
and another labelled “Harem” or so. Ferries from Karaköy to
Ferries for car ferries to Asian Istanbul. Kadıköy run daily between
A constant traffic of ferries On the west side of the Galata 6:30am and midnight. Other
crosses the Bosphorus and Bridge is the pier for ferries up changes are less frequent.
the Golden Horn, run by the the Golden Horn (Halıç Hattı). If you want to explore
Istanbul Sea Bus Company Another main terminus is independently using ferries,
(İDO). Private steam ferries, Karaköy, opposite Eminönü, especially to hop between the
called vapur, are run by from which ferries run to villages along the Bosphorus,
Ferry and Sea Bus Route Map

.
There are numerous ferry and sea E MINÖNÜ PIE RS Üsküdar
bus services departing daily from Kadıköy
Bri lata
Bosphorus, Beşiktaş
e
Eminönü and the other ports. In

dg
Ortaköy,
Ga
Harem Kanlıca,
addition, a number of smaller, Anadolu
Eyüp, Üsküdar Beşiktaş
privately operated motor boats Kavaği
serve the same destinations.
Hasköy,
Ayvansaray,
Eyüp
Kabataş
Go
de
l
n
s
BEYOĞLU ru
Ho
Kasımpaşa ho
rn sp
Bo
Key Üsküdar
Ferry
Karaköy
Sea bus
Car ferry
Motor boat Eminönü
Piers
BAZAAR
QUARTER SERAGLIO
POINT Harem
Yenikapı SULTANAHMET
Haydarpaşa
Marmara,
Bandırma, Yalova, Kadıköy, Kadıköy,
Bursa Çınarcık, Bostancı Bostancı, Bursa,
Gemlik Princes’ Islands Çınarcık
you will need to arm yourself

with a timetable (see below).
Sea Buses
The modern, Swedish-built
catamarans which are known
as sea buses (deniz otobüsü) are
run by İDO. Their interiors resem-
ble aircraft cabins, with long
rows of reclining seats, piped
music and air conditioning. Sea
buses are considerably faster and
more comfortable than ferries,
but cost three times as much.
The most useful route is to
the Princes’ Islands (see p160),
with 6–12 departures daily. For
destinations outside Istanbul
see pp244–5. One of the many ferries operating on the Bosphorus
get crowded in the summer, which makes boarding quicker

Motor Boats especially at weekends, so arrive and offers a discounted fare.
A number of companies, early to book your ticket and to Tickets for the Bosphorus trip
including Dentur and Turyol, ensure that you get a deck seat cost ¨25 and you cannot use
operate motor boats which with a view. You should retain the Istanbul Card for it.
cross the Bosphorus and Golden your ticket during the To enter the pier, put the jeton
Horn at various points, and run journey, as you must into the slot beside the
up the Bosphorus. These routes show it on the return turnstile, and then
are also served by Şehirhatları trip. You can disembark wait in the board-
ferries and although cheaper, at any pier along the ing hall for a boat.
they are less frequent. Motor way, boarding the next A schedule of sailing
boats accept only the Istanbul ferry that comes along İDO logo times is on view at each
Card travel pass or a jeton token. with the same ticket; but pier and a copy of the
if you make a second stop you timetable (tarife) can usually
will need to buy a new ticket to be bought at the ticket booth.
Water Taxis continue your journey.
Water taxis are the latest Şehirhatları also offers a trip DIRECTORY
addition to the city’s waterborne from Kadıköy in summer at
transport scene. There are 27 weekends only. Ferries and Sea Buses
designated docks across the city. There are several alternatives Istanbul Sea Bus Co (İDO)
To book a water taxi either to the official trip. The small Tel (0212) 444 44 36.
phone or reserve online. They private boats that leave Eminönü ∑ ido.com.tr
operate a shared rate system for just after the Şehirhatları ferry
Şehirhatları
sails in the summer months
Tel (0212) 444 18 51.
only go halfway up the straits ∑ sehirhatlari.com.tr
and do not stop on the way.
Alternatively, you can book a Motor Boats
private cruise through a
reputable company, such as Dentur
Hatsail Tourism. Tel 444 63 36.
∑ denturavrasya.com
Turyol
Tickets & Timetables Tel (0212) 251 44 21.
Water taxi on its way along on For ferries and sea buses, ∑ turyol.com
the Bosphorous buy a flat-fare token (jeton)
from the booth (gişe) at the
Water Taxis
the 10-seater craft, and are very pier or from one of the unofficial Deniz Taksi
reasonably priced when shared. street vendors who sit nearby Tel 444 44 98. ∑ deniztaksi.com
and sell them at slightly higher
The Bosphorus Trip prices. Ferry fares cost ¨4, while Private Cruises
Şehirhatları runs daily ferry those for sea buses to the Hatsail Tourism
excursions up the Bosphorus (see Princes’ Islands are ¨9. You can Tel (0212) 241 62 50.
pp138–51). Light refreshments use jetons for all local trips. ∑ hatsail.com
are served but no meals. They Better still, use an Istanbul Card,
244 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling Beyond Istanbul Van. Several companies compete

on the same routes, so prices
The best way to reach nearby towns and cities from Istanbul is are very reasonable (starting
by coach. Further- flung destinations can be reached either by from ¨90) if booked early.
coach or air. A great number of coach companies operate in Anadolujet and Sunexpress fly
only from Istanbul’s Sabiha
Turkey, but it is worth paying extra to travel with a reputable Gökçen Airport. Atlas Jet and
company. Many Turkish cities are served by domestic flights Onur Air use Atatürk Airport,
from both Atatürk and Sabiha Gökçen airports and fares are while Pegasus and Turkish
competitive. A high-speed train links Istanbul to Ankara. For Airlines use both. Turkish
destinations across the Sea of Marmara, ferries and sea buses Airlines have flights to both
are a relaxing means of transport. Bursa and Çanakkale, if you
are pressed for time. Although
all domestic airlines have online
booking systems, foreign cards
are not always accepted. Use a
domestic travel agent if you
face trouble booking online.
Sea Buses and Ferries

High-speed ferries (hızlı feribot)
and sea buses (deniz otobüsü)
are a convenient means of
travelling long distances
from a city surrounded by
water. Run by İDO and
Şehirhatları (see p242), they
are good value; cars are also
carried on some high-speed
ferry routes.
High-speed sea bus on the Bosphorus For Bursa, take the twice-
daily high-speed ferry from
Intercity Coaches to Yalova and takes about 4 Yenikapı to Güzelyalı (90
The main coach station (otogar) hours. Çanakkale Truva minutes), or the sea bus from
for both domestic and Seyahat is the best company Kabataş to Güzelyalı (2 hours
international destinations is to use for getting to Gelibolu via Kadıköy), then a bus into
at Esenler, 14 km (9 miles) (Gallipoli), which takes about 5 Bursa. Alternatively, take the
northwest of the city centre. hours, or Çanakkale, which takes high-speed ferry (seven daily;
There is another at Harem, on about 6 hours. Metro Turizm is 1 hour 10 minutes) to Yalova,
the Asian side of the Bosphorus. a large and reliable coach from where it is 1 hour by bus
Both are scruffy and poorly company that runs regular to Bursa. From Yalova, regular
maintained, but all coach schedules to many destinations minibuses serve İznik (1 hour).
companies have city centre outside Istanbul. Single passen- Sea buses also travel to the
branches where you can buy gers will usually be seated next Marmara Islands from Yenikapı.
tickets, and they run shuttle to someone of the same sex.
services to collection points Couples can sit together.
near the motorway, so you will Refreshments are served free of
probably not need to use them. charge, and there are frequent
You must make a booking rest and meal stops. The better
for all coach journeys. Most companies have some buses
companies accept credit cards. with single seats, offer free Wi-Fi
Varan and Ulusoy (see p237), and have TVs in the back of the
the two most reputable bus seats. As an example, the fare for
companies, take bookings and the 450 km (280 mile) journey
issue tickets from their city between Istanbul and Antalya is
centre offices. They operate ¨75 with a premium company.
services between main centres
such as Ankara, Antalya and
İzmir, as well as to destinations Air Travel
along the Black Sea coast. Flying makes sense in Turkey if
Kâmil Koç has a service to you wish to visit distant cities
Bursa. The journey goes via such as Antalya, İzmir, Kayseri Kâmil Koç minibus at a bus station in
Gebze, boarding the ferry (for Cappadocia), Trabzon or central Izmir
Car Hire and Road Travel Sea. These are often

Turkey’s comprehensive good value and offer
intercity coach and air an efficient and
network means that a car is hassle-free method
not necessary for travelling to of simplifying your
other cities. If you wish to drive, travel arrangements.
note that car hire companies Reputable tour
including Avis, Budget and Sixt operators with
have both airport and city English-speaking
centre offices. You do not need guides include Plan
an international driving licence, Tours, Turista Travel
just your normal one. Turkish and Türk Expres.
roads are hazardous because of All offer classical, Horse-drawn carriage (phaeton) on Büyükada
fast, reckless driving. Traffic biblical and heritage
drives on and gives way to the tours in Istanbul as well as to major sights are within easy
right, even on roundabouts. The regions throughout Turkey. walking distance.
Turkish Touring and Some companies offer In Bursa city centre, Heykel,
Automobile Club personalized tours all at the eastern end of Atatürk
(Türkiye Turing ve over Turkey. CARED Caddesi, is the main dolmuş
Otomobil Kurumu, or (Çanakkale Tour terminus. From there you
TTOK), can give visiting Guide Association) can get dolmuşes to most
motorists advice on can provide tour other parts of the city. There
driving in Turkey, as guides who speak is also an efficient bus service
well as offering many languages. and a metro.
assistance with break- Edirne is much smaller
downs, accidents and Car rental than Bursa, and the public
insurance. It has company logos Local Transport transport system is not as
reciprocal agreements Outside Istanbul comprehensive. To get from
with the British AA The main means of public the coach station to the
and RAC. transport in both Bursa and town centre, a distance of
Edirne is the dolmuş. These 2 km (1 mile), take a Merkez–
are either minibuses or saloon Garaj minibus dolmuş, or
Day Trip Tours cars, with the destination a taxi.
A number of companies offer displayed on signs on the roof. There are no motor vehicles
day trips from Istanbul to the If you stay in the centre of either on the Princes’ Islands. On
Princes’ Islands, the Dardanelles, city and are moderately fit, Büyükada and Heybeliada
Bursa and villages on the Black you will find that all of the phaeton carriages can be hired.
DIRECTORY
Intercity Coaches Onur Air Yenikapı Pier Day Trip Tours
Tel (0850) 210 66 87. Tel (0212) 516 12 12.
Çanakkale Truva ∑ onurair.com.tr CARED
Seyahat Car Hire and Tel (0286) 213 90 40.
Pegasus Airlines
∑ cared.org.tr
Tel (0212) 444 00 17. Tel (0850) 260 07 37. Road Travel
∑ truvaturizm.com ∑ flypgs.com Plan Tours
Avis Cumhuriyet Cad 83/1,
Kâmil Koç Sunexpress
Tel 444 28 47. Elmadağ. Map 7 F3.
Tel 444 07 97.
Tel (0212) 444 05 62. ∑ avis.com.tr Tel (0212) 230 22 72.
∑ sunexpress.com
∑ kamilkoc.com.tr ∑ plantours.com
Turkish Airlines (THY) Budget
Metro Turizm Turista Travel
Tel 444 08 49. Tel (0212) 663 08 58.
Divanyolu Cad 16,
Tel (0212) 444 34 55. ∑ turkishairlines.com ∑ drivebudget.com Sultanahmet. Map 3 D4 (5
∑ metroturizm.com.tr D4). Tel (0212) 518 65 70.
Ferries Sixt
∑ turistatravel.com
Air Travel Tel (0212) 215 24 19.
İDO Türk Expres
∑ sixt.com/car-rental/
Tel (0212) 444 44 36.
Anadolujet turkey Cumhuriyet Cad 47/1,
∑ ido.com.tr
Tel 444 25 38. Taksim. Map 7 E3.
Şehirhatları TTOK Tel (0212) 235 95 00.
∑ anadolujet.com.tr
Tel (0212) 444 18 51. I. Oto Sanayi Sitesi Yanı, ∑ turkexpres.com.tr
Atlas Jet ∑ sehirhatlari.com.tr Seyrantepe Yolu, IV Levent.
Tel (0850) 222 00 00. Kabataş Pier Tel (0212) 282 81 40.
∑ atlasjet.com Tel (0212) 249 15 58. ∑ turing.org.tr
246 STREET FINDER
STREET FINDER
The map references that are given The map below shows the area covered by
throughout this guide refer to the maps the ten maps and the key lists the symbols
on the following pages only. Some small used. The first figure of the reference tells
streets referred to in the text may not be you which map to turn to; the letter and
labelled on the map. References are given number indicate the grid reference. For an
for hotels (see pp182–9), restaurants (see overview of Greater Istanbul see pages 110–
pp196–207), shops (see pp210–19) and 11. The map on the inside back cover shows
entertainment venues (see pp220–23). public transport routes.
PA BO
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NN
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KEN
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KE
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0 yards 750
Key To Street Finder

Major sight Police station
Place of interest Turkish baths
Other building Mosque
Ferry boarding point Synagogue
Sea bus boarding point Church
Railway station Hospital
Scale of Maps 1–3
Metro / light rail station Railway line
& 6–10
Underground funicular stop Tram line
0 metres 250
Tram stop Motorway
0 yards 250
Cable car station Pedestrian tunnel
Main bus stop City walls
Scale of Maps 4 & 5
Dolmuş terminus
0 metres 200
Tourist information
0 yards 200
M Tekfur Sarayı K A MIŞ SOK
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Mosque of the C BA İN
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Marmara, Kadıköy, Sea of Marmara

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IS E Galata Kulesi
DE
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KARAKÖY
Yeraltı Camii
Yeraltı Mosque
E Sİ
CAD D
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Eyüp Karaköy
B o s p h o r u s
Hardarpaşa
Galata Köprüsü
Galata Bridge
Kadiköy
Harem
EMİNÖNÜ
5
Rüstem Paşa Camii 3

Eminönü Eminönü
Rüstem Paşa Mosque
RE 2
H Yeni ŞA 1
D CA
C AS New D İ Y
CA
I I Cami 4
M
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CA L A R Mosque
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HM
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D
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KENN
LI
TA
ÇİÇ Spice Bazaar

KÖ
ŞKÜ CADDESİ DD
E ES
D
KP SEE PAGES 4–5

TA
CA
HA
SOAZA İ
S O NI
Sirkeci
HT CA
M FOR ENLARGEMENT
HA
K RI
AK D
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MİMAR KEMA-
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M
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SOLİSLA
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CAD
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BU
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SA
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ER
SULTAN MEK RK
HÜ Archaeological
Bab-ı Ali
NK
Mahmut Paşa Camii OCA

ALEMD A
A
KÜ Museums
ŞU AŞ
Mahmut Paşa CELAL FERDIĞI C M Sublime Topkapı Sarayı

A
KU TP
ET
Cağaloğlu KO Porte Topkapı Palace
HİL
YO MU
A
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AH
NA
TASVIR SOKAĞI Hamamı Alay Pavilion
PR Cağaloğlu Baths GI S
M
Nuruosmaniye
CA
O O
AD
(SA
ŞEREF EFENDİ SOKA ĞI F K R

Ü
Camii GÜ KA Darphane-i Amire

ŞK
Nuruosmaniye Gülhane
Ö
RK ZI
İ C
Imperial Mint
YK
Mosque NURUOSMAN
IYE CAD AN M İ
LA
CASMA
A
C A Ğ A L O Ğ YL U
VEZİRHANI
IAL
D İL SO Aya İrini Kilisesi

CAD
CADDES
ĞU Haghia Eirene
Atik Ali ER
BAB
K ÇE
Paşa Camii Çemberlitaş EB
AT ŞM
K
L
TA
SO
Atik Ali Constantine's ÇA AN E

E
SO
M
Paşa Mosque Column Mahmut II Türbesi Ş CA

ÇE Aya Sofya KAĞ
İ
Tomb of Mahmut II DD
ES Haghia Sophia I Ahmet III Çeşmesi
I
Çemberlitaş İ
DES
Sultanahmet İNCİLİ
DİVAN
N
AVUŞ SO Fountain of Ahmet III

EVKAF SOK
D U
YOLU Yerebatan
CADDESİ İ
K
TAŞDİBEK ÇEŞMESİ
PİYERLOT
CA AY
S OKAĞI
SOK
CAD Sarayı A
ÜM
PEY
Binbirdirek Sarnıcı Basilica M YAS

IH
Cistern EYD OFY

İSHAK
Cistern of 1001 Columns

KH
·
BA
CA
A A
AN
GEDIKPASA
¸ CAMİİ
SULTANAHMET NI
KLODFARER
K
E
CA
SO
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M
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PA
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KA
K
M
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A
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A
D
N
Baths of Roxelana ADLİY

ÜÇ
GI
MEYDANI
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KA
Tİ
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İ
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RLO HIPPODROME
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DD
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İYE Türk ve İslam

AT
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E
AN
CA
P
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Ç
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Rİ
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SO
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GA
Eserleri Müzesi
A
İN
IK
K
N
D
TL
IK
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ET
AN
IY
YO
TA
İZ
Museum of Turkish
KU
IY
KB
Sultan
D
N
UT
HS
KAT
RB
SARA
and Islamic Arts

ŞA
E
IN
Y E N HANE
Ahmet Camii Carpet Museum

TE
BE
AĞ
SO K
PA
SO
K
YS
A (Halı Müzesi)
K
Blue Mosque
Ç
OK
İ
BA Cankurtaran
ET
KADIR ÖZBEKLER SOK CA

İ
ES
GA ŞE HİT K YR
T AVUKH
M
SOK
DD
·
LIM ME SO DD A
SOK AN SO M F
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E
CA
Şİ
A Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii Mozaik Müzesi S İ K IR

FA
IS
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IN
E
AN
NI
Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Mosque

FD
H S
TOR N I
AN
AM
YD U N Mosaic Museum A
TA
CAD
ME T O D AR RV
N
EN AL
AM
K CA RT DI K OK
K KI
KAS AP OSM
SULTANAHMET
ŞEH
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TOM
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SOF AŞ
SOK
NK
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AS
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SO
RB
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K
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Küçük K Ü Ç Ü K RL İ RE SO
FENE
S
ÇAYIROĞLU
S OK
Cİ M Ğ I E
EV
CİN SOKA Ayasofya Camii L SOK

K
AKA
ÖD
AKS
Church of SS Sergius
and Bacchus
KEN N EDY Bukoleon Sarayı
C A D D E S Bucoleon Palace
İ
C
ME AMİ
CAMIS
RK RT
SO
Mısır
SO E R
D
Y
TÜ E
ĞI
SO DAN
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M
C E M ADDES
H
FI Çarşısı B
I C ANK
MI E C İL
KA
N
CÖ
TA
T K
O SO DIK IL A-
SİYA VUŞ PAŞA

Ç İ Ç Spice Bazaar
C
SO KA Ğ I
CE AR
TA
M KA ÇI
MA K M
PRO
Ğ LA BE LAL SOK
H
R
İM
EK
TA
U I R
HA D Ö
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PA Y
KA
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YAVAŞC A
Süleymaniye S RI
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D
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CA
SO
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P
SO
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Camii K KA
R
K NC
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DD
A Ğ IZLI K ÇI S OKAĞI
A
O
ĞI
S O VA
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C
F
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ŞA
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SO KA Ğ M ET
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HA
RA
M A RP
CA YRI
Mosque KI
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SO F H A
CAMİ
S
T ESB İHÇ İ SOK LAR

ID
DÖKMECİ LER
HA
CA DD
CADDESİ
AĞI KA N I
M EH
I
ES İ
ŞAMDANCI
SOK
D
SOKAĞI
Ş AHİNDE
ĞI
UZUNÇAR
NC
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SO KAĞI
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BU
AM
M TAN DES
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SA K A
S
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AN
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N
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MANGALCI S OKAĞI
K
SE
CAD D E S AŞİR EFENDİ
FINCAN CILAR
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AĞI
CADDESİ
HA MA M
İ
MANGALCI
DD N
PAŞA CAMİİ HO
N ASUH İYE SOKA ĞI
CAEMA
OK
SOKAĞI CA
ĞI R
SO TÇULA
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L
CADDESİ
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H
A
ÜÇÜ
F U A T
KA
NI
CA DD ES
PU
SO K A Ğ
I K
KA
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KA EL
SOKAĞ I
HA C
SO NIM
NARGİLECİ SOKAĞI
Valide
İ
KA
TIR
HA
S OKAĞI
I
Han CIO
ĞLU
İstanbul
MAHM
SO
ÖRÜCÜLER
U
BESİM
Üniversitesi Ş KA
ĞI
P A Ş A
H SO
K MACUNCU SOKA
O K
Kürkçü ĞI
C A
O İR
H G
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UTPA
A I
TA C İ R H A N E
F
ĞI S O AN
N
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Ç A R K Ç I L A R S O KA
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SEMAV ER SOK AĞ I ARKASI SO Ğ E

R I
SOK LA
ŞA YO
ÇEŞ NİCI SOKAĞI

TA R A KÇI C AFER
ÇI
SANDALYECİLER
CÖ KEL IK
Ç IK E K T E B İ
A K
C A D D E S İ
NECİP EFENDİ
SOK
ÇAK M
SOKAĞI
Büyük
SOKAĞI
ESİ
CADD Yeni
TI
KU
M
MÜHE MIN PAŞ A SOKAĞI
CAN
TA
MER
Han
Ğ
RA STI KÇ I
AN
SOK AĞ I
CI
ŞU
Beyazıt Kulesi
R
A
PAŞA
S U LT
LA
K
Beyazıt Tower ĞI Ç
ĞI
SO KA I İ
KTEB
R
PA ŞA N ME
LA
T S U L TA K A Ğ I
ME
B A KK AL S OK
ŞA
SO
AH MU T PA
YEŞİL DİREKLİ
SO
R
K ER MAH M I S OK
CADDE S
ŞU
ŞE
KA
HA MA
KU
CA
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CADDES
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D
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K ÇI LA
ŞA
D
TA RA I SO K
ES
PA
HAN
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BEZCİLER SOKAĞI CELAL FERDİ
KÜ
UT
İ GÖKÇAY SOK
SO KA ĞI
ŞA
ÇÜ SOK
PA
ÇADIRCI
ME N
IF
LÜ UT
AH
K Y AĞ
T DESİ M AĞI
EC I AR
İ SO FUL
PA S A
ES AD
M
KA LAH
SO H
K Mahmut
GEN
ILD I
A
D
C
ĞI AYNACIL AR SOK
M
D
A Paşa Camii
IZ H
C
E
KUY
AR
SOK
TE SK ER
LA
Kapalı Çarşı Mahmut Paşa Mosque
LAR
ANI
LIKÇILAR
IL
I
U MC UL
C ANC Grand Bazaar ĞI

R Y O RG ŞEREF EFENDİ SOKA
ÜNİV ERSİT E K I E T UR O KA Ğ
I
BABA TÜRBESİ SOKAĞI

BA RS
VEZ
S O M E AN Ç I LA
ĞI
CADD ESİ
K IL I Ç
CADDESİ
BEYAZIT KA KS H
AR CA D
ĞI İZ S ALI
KA
NURUOSMANİYE
MEYDANI OK C I E Sİ İRHANI
SO LA Ç
ANİYE
N URUOSM I
DD
YAĞ
SOKAĞI
R
PA N BEYAZIT Nuruosmaniye
A R
CADDES
S A
KA
YAHNİ
A
SQUARE ŞI HA C Camii
SI F
Türk Vakıf Hat SO L A FESÇİ L E R CADDE
Nuruosmaniye
KA R BAŞI Sİ GAZİ S İ
Sanatları Müzesi Beyazit ĞI LP A K Ç I
LAR Mosque N AN
ISK END ER SO K PAŞ
CADDESİ
Museum of KA
Camii O K ÇULA R BA SI C A
DDESI ¸ KÜRKÇÜLE R ÇARŞISITA VUK PAZ A
I
BOĞ AZI
AG
ARI S
Calligraphy Beyazıt Mosque SOK AGI SOKAĞI O KA
ĞI ALİ
KÜRKÇÜLER PAZARI
S OKAĞ I
OK
HÜSE
OR D U CA D D E S
SOK
Lİ PAŞA
ĞI R
YİN A
KA İLE
İ ÇA R ŞIKAPI ĞA C
R S
Beyazıt AMİİ
KA E
S OE YC
Çorlulu Ali Paşa Külliyesi OKAĞI

S
SO PHAN
C ADDESİ
Atik Ali
ED A
ĞI
Çorlulu Ali Paşa Courtyard ATİK A

Bİ
I
MEDRESESİ Paşa Camii

ĞI
SO KAĞI
SOKAĞ
R
YENİ
TÜR B
DA
SOKA
ÇERİ Atik Ali

ATRO LER
KA
Ş E V KL A Y C I BÜYÜ
TİYALIĞI
ARSOK ASM C A D D Paşa Mosque Çemberlitaş
ESİ
A B İD K A Ğ I
İ S OK K HAYDAR EFE A K Constantine's Column

RE SE
ĞI
NDİ SOK AN
ĞI
L
DİL
AĞI
AKO
KA
SOKA KA Çemberlitaş
SO
Ç A R Ş I K A P I
CAMİİ
İN D A
ĞI
İ M ED
SO
Mahmut II Türbesi
O
HATTA
SOK
İ S
S OĞA
KAR
B OS TA N
EVKAF SOKAĞI
SO KA ĞI
İ SO KAĞ I
Tomb of Mahmut II
KI
C A M N A ĞA
V ER
AL
İİ SO
BA
SO KA M ET
Sİ NE KL
K YEN
T SOK
Sİ
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SO
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A
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Ö
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BAŞ MUSAHİP
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FE
TH
BA
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Ç AT
D
CA
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R
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E M S OKAĞ I
Ahmet III Çesmeşi

SOK EM
I
AĞ I
E
Ğ
RÜS CA
RDU
ES
Haghia Sophia
A
İN PAŞA
BİÇKİ Y U I İNC İLİ ÇA S Fountain of Ahmet III

K
T
İ
HO
D
O
VU Ş SO KA
SOK A ĞI
Ğ
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ŞEFTA Lİ S
ĞI
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NYOL Sarayı
N
U Basilica Cistern A Y
U
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A
ĞI Sultanahmet ESİ E S
M
Binbirdirek Sarnıcı Y O
Ü
D FY
IH
Bİ NB İR Cistern of 1001 Columns A

N A
İSHAK
D
MEYDAİR EK
B
I
İ
C AD D ESİ
E S·
SOKAĞINI
A
SULTANAHMET
I
B
AĞ
MEYDANI
I
K
Ğ
SO
A
C
Old Adliye
IŞIK
Hürrem Sultan
K
DO STL UK
SO
SOKYUR DU Sarayı Hamamı

M
P
ES
TE
Baths of Roxelana
I
D
R
ŞA
M TE
K
D
K LOD FAR E
İM VF
Ö
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Türk ve İslam
K
A IK
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SO
R
L
Eserleri Müzesi A
N
N
KA
N
A
AT MEYDANI E
A
M
C
SO
R
Museum of Turkish
SA
Ğ
D
TE E AD
İM
RZ · HIPPODROME H KA
Y
BA
& Islamic Arts Lİ

K
İH M Mehmet Efendi Ğ YE
D
E
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KA
A
M
T
S
NE
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SO
A
Ü
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A
Istanbul Handicrafts
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KA SO
Ç
KA
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L
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N
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RB
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K
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A
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Carpet Museum ĞI
K
SO TE R
C
A
Blue Mosque
YO
S
M
ÇH A
O (Halı Müzesi)
AS
SO K
SU
IS
KA A BA
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Ğ Marmara Ğ I C YR
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D AM
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Museum of the K KU HAS YİT
N
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M
A
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K ÜÇÜK
Republic RU YU AN R RV
A
SOK
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Beyoğlu Mevlevi Lodge SOKAĞI

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Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque

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|
Yıldız Teknik
SE
K
KM Ğ
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Lİ T
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EK A K Üniversitesi
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K O I BEŞIKTAŞ ÇI Yıldız
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KA Technical
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L Pavilion of the D AF
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ŞŞ Yıldız Sarayı
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İKİYE Linden Tree İ
YOLU KE SOK
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TESV
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Yıldız Palace
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Ş A IR NA Hİ Fİ
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IRL
ON AK
AKD
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N I M
Istanbul LGU AL
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BE
K
D D E
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Teknik
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SOK
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OK
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İİ Üniversitesi
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LA A R HA TTAT TAH S İ N SO K S O ARP

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EŞ T L N ŞA MESCİ Dİ SOK
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SOK
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LA
NE
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Lİ T
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EFE
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DD E Sİ
Deniz Müzesi
KE
B
BA Beşiktaş
Swissôtel Naval Museum
SO K
İ
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D D Milli Saraylar
AĞ I
C
C A Resim Müzesi
A
nönü
D
National Palaces
D
Stadyumu Painting Museum

ES
Ortaköy, Kanlıca,
İ
E Anadolu Kavaği
HÇ
Dolmabahçe Sarayı
B
A Dolmabahçe Palace
A
D M
GA L
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O
LM N
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D
A ES
BA İ
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K
SO
DD
CA
ŞA
PA
AN
Dolmabahçe Camii
ET
US
Dolmabahçe Mosque
ZZ
EB
İ
M
-İ
Lİ S
EC
M
Kabataş
Princes’ Islands,
Bostanci Eminönü,
Kadıköy Kadıköy
Z İN SA
OK
SOKAĞI
I
C İR
KARA HASA N
KA
SOKAĞ
YO LİKU
NE S
LU YU Y
SO OL
BE KA U D
M E K İREÇHA
STE VA Ğ I ER
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RU RŞ A
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Şale Köşkü Cİ LO GÜ L T E K İ N S O
KA
SO
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Şale Pavilion
MİR SOK
IN
N
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KAB
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KÖY S O K
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SOK
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KL IBA
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IS
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Malta Pavilion F Ü
TAR ÇIN SOK C
ORTAKÖY
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K
S OK
HASRET R
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NAR
P A SOK G
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K
AŞ S OK
RAK
Lİ
SO ĞI KA
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Yıldız Çini ESİ C İ
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Fabrikası P A L A N G A C A D D N A
M
L L İ Boğaziçi Köprüsü
Imperial U A
Porcelain Factory M Bosphorus Bridge
Çadır Köşkü
Çadır Pavilion
İ Ortaköy Camii Istinye,
S
E Sariyer
D Ortaköy Ortaköy Mosque
D
A
C
C
K
A
SO
DD
N
A
AS
Dİ
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YA H Y A E F E N
A
I R
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SA
Ç
L K IM
A S A R İYE C A D D E S İ
SA L Ç IK- Kanlıca,
L A R S OK Anadolu Kavaği
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DD
CA
Çırağan Sarayı
Çırağan Palace
Beylerbeyi
B o s p h o r u s
Kuzguncuk
Ü RY
AN
İ
İZ A
S
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DE S OK
İC
D
A
D
D
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BA
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M
C
M Y
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KA ND
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SU AĞ
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SI
A R A S OK A Ğ I
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ZB I
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AĞ
A
P
Eminönü, MÜN
ŞEM Sİ BEY
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Eyüp KA ERTE KA
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SOK AĞI
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I S TA N B U L S T R E E T F I N D E R 257
Street Finder Index

In Turkish, Ç, Ğ, İ, Ö, Ş and Ü are listed as separate letters in the alphabet, coming after C, G, I, O,
S and U respectively. In this book, however, Ç is treated as C for the purposes of alphabetization
and so on with the other letters. Hence Çiçek follows Cibinlik as if both names began with C.
Following standard Turkish practice we have abbreviated Sokaği to Sok and Caddesi to Cad.
References in brackets refer to the enlarged section of the Street Finder (maps 4 and 5).
Balcılar Yokuşu 10 C4
A Alaca Hamam Cad 3 D3 (4 C1)
Aladoğan Sok 9 E2
Atatürk Bulvarı
Ateş Böceği Sok
2 A3
7 D2 Bali Paşa Cad 1 B3
Abacı Dede Sok 10 C3
Alay Pavilion 3 E3 (5 E3) Atik Ali Paşa Bali Paşa Yokuşu 2 C4 (4 A4)
Abacı Latif Sok 8 A4
Alayköşkü Cad 3 E4 (5 E3) Mosque 3 D4 (4 C3) Balık Sok 7 D4
Abanoz Sok 7 D4
Albay Cemil Sakarya Sok 1 B4 Atik Medresesi Sok 4 C3 Balo Sok 7 E4
Abbasağa Kuyu Sok 8 B3
Albay Sadi Alantar Sok 8 A1 Atik Valide Mosque 10 C3 Baltabaş Sok 7 D2
Abdi İpekçi Cad 7 F1, 8 A3
Abdül Feyyaz Sok 10 C2 Alçak Dam Sok 7 F4 Atiye Sok 8 A2 Balyoz Sok 7 D5
Abdülezel Paşa Cad 2 B1, 6 A5 Alemdar Cad 3 E3 (5 E2) Atlamataşı Cad 2 B2 Bamyacı Sok 9 F5
Abdülhak Hamit Cad 7 E3 Ali Ağa Sok 7 D2 Atlas Çık 10 B2 Bankacılar Sok 4 C1
Abdullah Sok 7 E4 Ali Baba Sok 6 C5 Atlas Sok 10 B2 Barbaros Bulvarı 8 C1
Abdülselah Sok 3 D1 Ali Baba Türbesi Sok 4 C3 Atmeydanı Sok 3 D4 (4 C4) Barbaros Hayrettin Cad 8 C4
Abidin Daver Sok 4 B3 Ali Hoca Sok 7 D5 Atölyeler Sok 10 C5 Barbaros Sok 8 C1
Açık Türbe Çık 10 B3 Ali Kabuli Sok 6 C2 Atpazarı Sok 2 A2 Barış Sok 8 B2
Açık Türbe Sok 10 B3 Ali Kuşçu Sok 1 A1 Avni Paşa Sok 10 B4 Baruthane Cad 1 A4, 6 B2
Açık Yol Sok 7 D2 Ali Paşa Sok 3 E1 (4 C3) Avni Sok 6 C5 Baruthane Deresi Yolu 6 C1
Açıkbaş Sok 1 B2 Ali Suavi Sok 8 B3 Avşar Sok 7 D2 Baş İmam Sok 1 C3
Açıklar Sok 1 C4, 2 A3 Alişah Sok 1 B2 Avuk Cad 6 C4 Baş Müezzın Sok 1 C3
Acısu Sok 8 A4 Alişan Sok 2 B5 Ayan Sok 1 C1 Baş Musahip Sok 5 D3
Ada Sok 6 C1 Altay Cad 1 B3 Ayasofya Meydanı 3 E4 (5 E4) Başağa Çeşmesi Sok 7 E4
Adem Baba Sok 1 A3 Altı Asker Sok 7 D3 Ayaydın Sok 9 E1 Basak Sok 2 B3
Adliye Sok 3 E4 (5 F4) Altı Poğaça Sok 2 A1 Ayazma Deresi Sok 8 B1 Başbuğ Sok 6 C2
Afacan Sok 8 B3 Altın Bakkal Sok 7 E3 Aybastı Sok 6 C5 Başhane Aralığı 6 C4
Ağa Çeşmesi Sok 2 B4 Altın Top Sok 6 B3 Aydede Cad 7 E3 Başhane Sok 6 C4
Ağa Çırağı Sok 7 F4 Altıntaş Sok 8 B3 Aydın Bey Sok 2 A1 Başhoca Sok 1 C3
Ağa Hamamı Sok 7 E4 Ambar Sok 10 B5 Aydınlık Sok 9 F2 Basilica Cistern 3 E4 (5 E3)
Ağa Yokuşu Sok 2 A3 Ambarlı Dere Sok 9 E1 Ayhan Işık Sok 8 A1 Başkatip Sok 1 B3
Ağaç Köprü Sok 6 B3 Amca Bey Sok 9 F1 Ayın Sok 10 C3 Basmacı Ruşen Sok 6 A3
Ağızlık Sok 1 B1 Amiral Tafdil Sok 3 E5 (5 E5) Aynacılar Sok 4 B3 Başvekil Cad 1 A4
Ağızlıkçı Sok 2 C3 (4 B1) Ana Çeşmesi Sok 7 E3 Aynalı Çeşme Cad 6 C4 Batarya Sok 7 E5
Ahali Sok 10 A3 Anadolu Sok 7 E4 Aynalı Kavak Cad 6 A3 Baths of Roxelana 3 E4 (5 E4)
Ahım Şahım Sok 6 C5 Anbar Arkası Sok 6 C5 Aynalı Kavak Palace 6 A3 Battal Gazi Sok 1 B3
Ahır Kapı Sok 3 E5 (5 F5) Ankara Cad 3 E3 (5 D1) Aynülhayat Çık 4 B5 Batumlu Sok 2 B5
Ahmediye Cad 1 C5 Arakiyeci Çık 10 C4 Ayşe Kadın Hamamı Bayıldım Cad 8 A4
Ahmet Fetgeri Sok 8 A2 Arakiyeci Sok 10 C4 Sok 2 B3 (4 A1) Bayır Sok 7 D1
Ahmet Hikmet Sok 1 B5 Araplı Sok 6 B4 Azak Sok 7 D2 Bayram Fırını Sok 3 E5 (5 F5)
Ahmet Şuayip Sok 2 B4 Arapzade Ahmet Azap Çeşmesi Sok 2 B2 Bayramyeri Sok 6 C4
Ahmet Vefik Paşa Cad 1 A5 Sok 2 C5 (4 A5) Azap Kapı Mosque 2 C1 Baysungur Sok 7 E1
Ahrida Synagogue 1 C1 Arapzade Dergahı Sok 6 C3 Azat Çık 10 B2 Bedrettin Sok 6 C5
Ahşap Minare Sok 1 B3 Arasta Çarşısı 5 E5 Azat Yokuşu 10 B2 Behçet Necatigil Sok 8 B3
Ahududu Sok 7 E4 Arayıcı Sok 2 C5 (4 A5) Azep Askeri Sok 2 B2 Behram Çavuş
Aile Sok 1 C4 Archaeological Azimkar Sok 2 A4 Sok 2 C5 (4 A5)
Ak Koyunlu Sok 1 A5 Museum 3 E3 (5 F2) Aziz Efendi Mektebi Bekar Sok 7 E4
Akağalar Cad 7 D2 Arda Cad 6 B3 Sok 10 B3 Bekçi Mahmut Sok 7 D2
Akarsu Yokuşu 7 E5 Arı Sok 1 B2 Aziz Mahmut Efendi Bekçi Sok 8 B2
Akbaba Sok 6 B4 Arif Paşa Sok 4 C3 Sok 10 B2 Bektaş Sok 10 C3
Akbıyık Cad 3 E5 (5 E5) Arıkan Sok 6 C4 Azizlik Sok 10 C2 Bereketli Sok 9 F5
Akbıyık Değirmeni Armağan Sok 8 A3 Bereketzade Sok 3 D1
Armutlu Sok 1 A3 Beşaret Sok 7 F4
Sok 3 E5 (5 E5)
Arpa Emini Köprüsü Sok 1 A3
B Beşiktaş Boğaziçi Köprüsü
Akburçak Sok 3 D5 (5 D5)
Akçay Sok 6 A2 Arslan Sok 7 D4 Baba Efendi Sok 8 B4 Bağlantı Yolu 9 D1
Akdeniz Cad 1 B4 Arslan Yatağı Sok 7 E4 Baba Hasan Sok 2 A3 Beşiktaş Cad 8 B4
Akdoğan Sok 8 C3 Asariye Cad 9 D3 Babadağı Sok 7 D2 Beşiktaş Kireçhane Sok 8 B3
Akif Paşa Sok 2 B3 Aşçıbaşı Mektebi Sok 10 C4 Babadağı Yokuşu 6 B4 Beşiktaş Yalı Sok 8 C4
Akkarga Sok 7 E2 Aşık Kerem Sok 8 B1 Babayanı Sok 5 D4 Besim Ömer
Akkavak Sok 8 A2 Aşık Paşa Sok 2 A1 Babayiğit Sok 2 C5 (4 A5) Paşa Cad 2 B3 (4 A2)
Akkiraz Sok 7 D3 Aşıklar Meydanı Sok 6 C4 Babıali Cad 3 D4 (5 D3) Beşirgazi Sok 1 B1
Akkirman Sok 8 A1 Aşıklar Sok 7 E3 Babıhümayun Cad 3 E4 (5 F4) Beste Sok 6 A2
Akman Sok 6 B1 Aşir Efendi Cad 3 D3 (4 C1) Babil Sok 7 E2 Bestekar Ahmet
Akmaz Çeşme Sok 8 C3 Asker Ocağı Cad 7 F3 Babnaibi Sok 1 B3 Çağan Sok 9 E2
Aksakal Sok 3 D5 (5 D5) Asker Sok 2 B4 Bahçeli Kahve Sok 4 B4 Bestekar Rahmi Bey Sok 1 A5
Aksaray Cad 2 A4 Asma Kandil Sok 2 C4 (4 A3) Bahriye Cad 6 C4 Bestekar Selahattin
Aksaray Hamamı Asmalı Çeşme Sok 5 D5 Baki Bey Sok 1 B5 Pınar Sok 10 A3
Sok 1 C5, 2 A4 Asmalı Han Sok 2 C5 (4 B4) Baki Dede Sok 1 C1 Bestekar Şevki Bey Sok 9 D1
Akseki Cad 1 B3 Asmalı Mescit Sok 7 D5 Bakıcı Sok 10 B2 Bestekar Sok 8 B1
Akseki Camii Şerif Sok 1 B3 Asmalı Sok 10 A2 Bakırcılar Cad 4 A3 Beyazıt Karakol
Akşemsettin Cad 1 B3 Asmalısalkım Sok 9 D3 Bakkal Bekir Sok 10 B4 Sok 2 C4 (4 A4)
Aktar Sok 9 E2 Astar Sok 2 A1 Bakraç Sok 7 E4 Beyazıt Kulhanı Sok 2 B4
Al Boyacılar Sok 2 A5 Asya Sok 2 B4 Balaban Cad 10 B2 Beyazıt Mosque 2 C4 (4 A3)
Ala Geyik Sok 3 D1 Atak Sok 6 B2 Balat Vapur İskelesi Cad 1 C1 Beyazıt Square 2 C4 (4 A3)
Alaca Camii Sok 2 A4 Atatürk Bridge 2 C1 Balçık Sok 10 B2 Beyazıt Tower 2 C3 (4 A2)
258 I S TA N B U L S T R E E T F I N D E R
Beyceğiz Cad 1 C2 Cambaz Ali Sok 10 C2 Çınarlı Bostan Sok 1 A2 Derya Beyi Sok 6 C2
Beyceğiz Fırını Sok 1 C2 Cambazoğlu Sok 7 E3 Cinci Meydanı Deryadil Sok 8 A2
Beyceğiz Sok 1 C2 Camcı Çeşmesi Sok 1 C2 Sok 3 D5 (4 C5) Devirhan Çeşmesi Sok 2 B2
Beygirciler Sok 10 C3 Camcı Feyzi Sok 7 D5 Cinderesi Sok 6 C2 Devşirmeler Sok 7 D2
Beytül Malcı Sok 7 F4 Camekan Sok 3 D1 Çıngıraklı Bostan Dibek Sok 7 D5
Bezciler Sok 4 C2 Cami Meydanı Sok 1 C5, 2 A3 Dikilitaş Camii
Bezmi Alem Cad 1 A4 Sok 3 D2 (4 C1) Çinili Camii Sok 10 C3 Meydanı Sok 8 B1
Bıçakçı Çeşmesi Sok 2 B2 Cami Sok 8 A2 Çinili Tekke Sok 10 C3 Dikilitaş Çık 8 B1
Bican Bağcıoğlu Sok 1 A3 Çamlık Kuyu Sok 9 E1 Çıracı Sok 3 E1 Dikilitaş Sok 8 B1
Bican Efendi Sok 9 F5 Can Sok 6 B1 Çırağan Cad 8 C4 Dik Sok 3 D1, 6 B1
Biçki Yurdu Sok 5 D3 Candan Sok 6 A2 Çırağan Palace 9 D3 Dilbaz Sok 7 D3
Bileyciler Sok 4 B3 Canfeda Camii Sok 1 B2 Çırakçı Çeşmesi Sok 2 A1 Dilber Sok 8 B2
Bilezikçi Sok 7 E1 Cankurtaran Cad 3 E5 (5 F5) Çırçır Cad 2 A2 Dilmaç Sok 1 B2
Bilgiçler Sok 1 C2 Çapari Sok 2 C5 (4 A5) Cistern of 1001 Dinibütün Sok 2 A1
Billurcu Sok 7 E4 Çardak Cad 2 C2 Columns 3 D4 (5 D4) Direkçibaşı Sok 7 D2
Bina Emini Sok 1 C4 Çardaklı Fırın Aralığı 4 C5 Çitlenbik Sok 8 C3 Direkli Camii Sok 2 C4 (4 A3)
Binbirdirek Meydanı Çardaklı Fırın Sok 4 C5 Çivici Sok 6 C4 Dirim Sok 1 A3
Sok 5 D4 Çarık Sok 7 E2 Çobanoğlu Sok 7 D1 Divan Hotel 7 F3
Birlik Sok 6 B2 Çarkçılar Sok 3 D3 (4 C2) Çökelik Sok 4 B2 Divan-ı Ali Sok 2 C4 (4 B3)
Blue Mosque 3 E5 (5 E5) Çarşamba Sok 1 C3 Column of Marcian 1 C4, 2 A3 Divanyolu Cad 3 D4 (5 D4)
Bodrum Mosque 2 A4 Çarşı Sok 4 B2 Cömert Türk Sok 4 B1 Divitçiler Cad 10 C4
Boğaziçi Köprüsü Çevre Çarşıkapı Cad 2 C4 (4 B3) Cömertler Sok 2 C5 (4 B5) Divitçiler Çık 10 C4
Yolu 9 E1 Çarşıkapı Sok 4 B3 Çömezler Sok 8 C3 Dizdariye Çeşmesi Sok 4 C4
Boğazkesen Cad 7 E5 Çatal Çeşme Sok 3 D4 (5 D3) Constantine’s Dizdariye Medresesi Sok 4 C4
Bol Ahenk Nuri Sok 10 C4 Çatıkkaş Sok 7 D4 Column 3 D4 (4 C3) Dizdariye Yokuşu 3 D4 (4 C4)
Bol Ahenk Sok 7 F4 Çatlak Çeşme Sok 8 B3 Çopur Ahmet Sok 9 E2 Dizi Sok 8 B3
Book Bazaar 2 C4 (4 A3) Çatma Merdiven Sok 6 C4 Çorbacı Sok 7 E3 Doğancılar Cad 10 A3
Börekçi Ali Sok 2 B4 Çavdar Sok 7 D2 Çorbacıbaşı Sok 2 A5 Doğramacı Kemal Sok 6 B3
Börekçi Bayram Sok 6 B3 Çavdarcı Sok 8 A4 Çorlulu Ali Paşa Doğramacı Şakir Sok 7 E3
Bosphorus Bridge 9 F2 Çavuşdere Cad 10 C3 Courtyard 4 B3 Doğramacı Sok 2 C4 (5 B4)
Bostan Hamamı Sok 2 B1 Çaydanlık Sok 6 B4 Çoruh Sok 8 A1 Dökmeciler
Bostan Sok (4 B4) 8 B2 Çayırlı Sok 9 E1 Çoşkun Sok 7 E5 Hamamı Sok 2 C2 (4 A1)
Bostanbaşı Cad 7 D5 Çayıroğlu Sok 3 D5 (5 D5) Cüce Çeşmesi Sok 2 B3 Dökmeciler Sok 4 A1
Bostancı Veli Sok 8 C3 Çaylak Sok 7 E3 Cudi Çık 9 E1 Dolambaç Sok 10 B4
Boyacı Ahmet Sok 3 D4 (4 C4) Cebel Topu Sok 7 E2 Cudi Efendi Sok 9 E2 Dolap Cad 1 C4, 2 A3
Bozdoğan Kemeri Cad 2 B3 Cedidiye Sok 8 C2 Çuhacıoğlu Sok 2 A5 Dolapdere Cad 7 D3
Bozkurt Cad 7 D1 Çekirdek Sok 8 B3 Çukur Bostan Sok 7 D5 Dolaplı Bostan Sok 1 B2
British Consulate 7 D4 Celal Bey Sok 3 D3 (4 C1) Çukur Çeşme Sok 2 A4 Dolmabahçe Cad 8 A4
Bucoleon Palace 3 D5 Celal Ferdi Gökçay Sok 4 C2 Çukurcuma Cad 7 E5 Dolmabahçe Gazhanesi
Buduhi Sok 7 D1 Çelebi Süleyman Sok 1 B3 Çukurlu Çeşme Sok 7 E4 Cad 8 A4
Bukali Dede Sok 2 A3 Cemal Nadir Sok 3 D3 (5 D2) Çulhalar Sok 1 C2 Dolmabahçe Mosque 8 A5
Bükücüler Hanı Sok 10 B5 Cemal Yener Tosyalı Cad 2 B3 Cumhuriyet Cad 7 F2, 10 C2 Dolmabahçe Palace 8 B4
Bülent Demir Cad 6 B4 Cemali Sok 1 B2 Çürüklük Sok 6 C5 Dönem Sok 2 C4 (4 B4)
Bulgurcu Sok 9 F2 Cemre Sok 4 A5 Dönmedolap Sok 10 B3
Bulgurlu Mescit Sok 10 B2 Cephaneci Sok 4 B4 Dönüş Sok 4 B5
Burçak Sok 1 C1 Ceride Hane Sok 5 D3
D Dört Kuyu Sok 6 C4
Büyük Bayram Sok 7 D4 Cerrahpaşa Cad 1 C5 Daci Sok 7 D1 Dörtyüzlü Çeşme Sok 8 C2
Büyük Çiftlik Sok 8 A2 Çeşme-i Cedid Sok 10 A2 Dağarcık Sok 2 A4 Dostluk Yurdu Sok 4 C4
Büyük Hamam Sok 10 B2 Çeşme-i Kebir Cad 10 B5 Dağhan Sok 4 B4 Doymaz Dere Sok 6 B3
Büyük Haydar Çeşnicı Sok 3 D3 (4 C2) Dalfes Sok 7 D3 Dr Ahmet Paşa Sok 1 A4
Efendi Sok 4 A3 Cevdet Paşa Cad 1 A5 Daltaban Yokuşu Sok 2 B4 Dr Emin Paşa Sok 5 D3
Büyük Hendek Cad 6 C5 Çevirmeci Sok 9 E2 Darı Sok 10 A2 Dr Eyüp Aksoy Cad 10 C5
Büyük Karaman Cezayir Cad 8 C4 Darphane Sok 4 A3 Dr Şevki Bey Sok 5 D4
Cad 1 C4, 2 A2 Cezayir Sok 7 D4 Darulbedayi Sok 7 F2 Dr Sıtkı Özferendeci
Büyük Kömürcü Sok 4 A5 Cezmi Sok 1 C5, 2 A4 Darülelhan Sok 2 B3 Sok 10 B4
Büyük Piyale Sok 6 B2 Church of Constantine Darülhadis Sok 2 B2 Draman Cad 1 B1
Büyük Reşit Paşa Cad 2 B3 Lips 1 B4 Darüssade Sok 3 E3 (5 E1) Draman Çukuru Sok 1 B2
Büyük Selim Paşa Cad 10 C3 Church of the Darüşşafaka Cad 1 C2 Dudu Abdüllatif Sok 1 B3
Büyük Şişhane Sok 7 E3 Pammakaristos 1 C2 Davutoğlu Sok 10 A3 Dükkan Sok 1 B1
Büyük Yokuş Sok 6 C3 Church of the Pantocrator 2 B2 Daye Kadın Sok 10 B5 Dümen Sok 7 F3
Church of St Mary of the Dayı Sok 7 D1 Dünya Sağlık Sok 7 F4
Mongols 1 C1 Dede Efendi Cad 2 B3 Dürbali Sok 10 C2
C Church of St Saviour in Dede Paşa Sok 1 B5 Düriye Sok 1 C1
Cabi Ali Sok 1 C2 Chora 1 B1 Defterdar Yokuşu 7 E5 Dutdibi Sok 6 B3
Çadır Pavilion 9 D3 Church of St Stephen of Değnekçi Sok 1 C4 Duvarcı Adem Sok 7 E3
Çadırcı Camii Sok 2 C5 (4 A5) the Bulgars 1 C1 Dellalzade Sok 9 D1 Duvarcı Sok 7 E3, 9 F2
Çadırcılar Cad 2 C4 (4 B3) Church of St Theodore 2 B2 Demirbaş Sok 7 D3 Düzgün Sok 4 B5
Çadırcılar Çeşmesi Sok 4 B4 Church of SS Sergius and Demirci Reşit Sok 4 C5
Cafer Ağa Courtyard 5 E3 Bacchus 3 D5 (4 C5) Den Sok 7 D1
Caferiye Sok 5 E3 Cibali Cad 2 B1 Dere Boyu Cad 6 C4
E
Cağaloğlu Baths 3 E4 (5 D3) Cibinlik Sok 9 E2 Dere Sok 8 A1 Ebürrıza Dergahı Sok 7 D3
Cağaloğlu Hamamı Sok 5 D3 Çiçek Pazarı Sok 3 D3 (4 C1) Dereotu Sok 7 D3 Ebussuut Cad 3 E3 (5 D2)
Cağaloğlu Yokuşu 3 D3 (5 D2) Çiçekçi Sok 10 B4 Dericiler Sok 7 E1 Eczacı Sok 7 D1
Çakırağa Yokuşu 1 B1 Çifte Gelinler Cad 2 C5 (4 A5) Derin Kuyu Sok 2 B4 Eczahane Sok 10 B4
Çakırgöz Cad 6 A3 Çifte Kumrular Sok 1 C4 Derne Sok 8 B3 Edirnekapı 1 A1
Çakmak Sok 7 D3 Çifte Vav Sok 7 F4 Dernek Sok 7 E3 Eğri Çınar Sok 8 C3
Çakmakçılar Cihangir Cad 7 F4 Ders Vekili Sok 2 A2 Ekmek Fabrikası Sok 8 A1
Yokuşu 2 C3 (4 B2) Cihangir Yokuşu 7 F5 Dershane Sok 7 F1 Elmadağ Cad 7 E2
Çakmaktaşı Sok 2 C5 (4 A5) Cihannüma Sok 8 C3 Dersiam Sok 1 B2 Elmaşçı Sok 10 B2
Çalı Çık 1 A2 Çilavcı Sok 4 A5 Derviş Paşa Sok 1 A5 Elmastıraş Sok 7 D3
Çalı Sok 7 D1 Çilingir Sok 1 C1 Dervişler Sok 5 E2 Elvanizade Camii Sok 2 B1
Camadan Sok 6 C4 Çimen Sok 1 C1, 7 E1 Dervişoğlu Sok 5 D1 Elvanlar Sok 2 B1
Emin Ali Yasin Sok 1 B5 Fındık Kıran Sok 4 A5 Hacı Hüsrev Köprüsü Hayriye Hanım Sok 2 C2
Emin Camii Sok 7 D3 Fındıkçılar Sok 4 C1 Sok 6 C3 Hayriye Sok 7 D4
Emin Ongan Sok 10 B3 Fındıkzade Sok 1 B5 Hacı İbrahim Sok 1 C1 Hayriye Tüccarı Cad 2 A4
Emin Sinan Camii Sok 4 B4 Fıstıklı Köşk Sok 9 E2 Hacı İlbey Sok 7 D2 Helvacı Ali Sok 10 C3
Emin Sinan Fitil Sok 7 D2 Hacı İsa Mektebi Sok 1 C1 Hemşehri Sok 2 B5
Hamamı Sok 2 C4 (4 B4) Fountain of Hacı Kadın Bostanı Sok 2 B2 Hemşire Sok 2 B5
Emir Buhari Sok 1 C3 Ahmet III 3 E4 (5 F4) Hacı Kadın Cad 2 B2 Hercai Sok 9 E2
Emir Çeşmesi Sok 6 B4 Fransız Hastanesi Sok 7 F1 Hacı Küçük Sok 4 C1 Hilton Hotel 7 F2
Emirhan Cad 8 B2 Fuat Paşa Cad 2 C3 (4 A2) Hacı Mutlu Sok 10 C2 Himayeyi Etfal Sok 5 D3
Emirler Hanı Sok 5 D1 Fulya Bayırı Sok 8 A1 Hacı Ömer Paşa Sok 2 A2 Himmet Baba Sok 10 C3
Emirname Sok 5 D1 Fütuhat Sok 3 D1 Hacı Rıza Sok 1 B1 Himmet Sok 2 B3
Emrullah Efendi Sok 1 A5 Hacı Salih Sok 1 C4 Hippodrome 3 E4 (5 D4)
Enfiyehane Sok 10 A3 Hacı Şevket Sok 10 C4 Hırka-i Şerif Cad 1 B3
Enis Akaygen Sok 8 B3
G Hacı Süleyman Sok 6 B3 Hisar Altı Sok 2 B1
Enli Yokuşu 7 E5 Galata Bridge 3 D2 Hacı Zeynel Sok 7 D2 Hissedar Sok 1 B4
Er Meydanı Sok 7 D2 Galata Kulesi Sok 3 D1 Hacı Zihni Efendi Sok 1 A5 Hızır Külhanı Sok 2 B2
Erdoğan Sok 3 E3 (5 E2) Galata Mumhanesi Cad 3 E1 Hadı Hun Sok 1 A5 Hoca Ahmet Sok 6 B4
Eregemen Sok 10 A3 Galata Tower 3 D1 Hadımodaları Sok 2 A4 Hoca Efendi Sok 1 B3
Erkan-ı Harp Sok 7 D5 Galip Dede Cad 7 D5 Hafız Ali Paşa Çık 10 A3 Hoca Hanı Sok 3 D3 (4 C1)
Eroğlu Sok 1 A2 Garaj Yolu Sok 7 D1 Hafız Mehmet Bey Sok 10 A4 Hoca Hanım Sok 3 D1
Eryılmaz Çık 5 E3 Gaspırali İsmail Sok 1 A5 Hafız Paşa Sok 1 C3 Hoca Kasım Köprü Sok 5 D2
Esenler Sok 8 A1 Gazhane Bostanı Sok 7 F3 Hafız-ı Kurra Sok 10 B4 Hoca Paşa Hamamı
Esirci Kemalettin Sok 4 A4 Gazi Refik Sok 8 B3 Haghia Eirene 3 E4 (5 F3) Sok 5 D1
Eski Ali Paşa Cad 1 B3 Gazi Sinan Paşa Sok 4 C3 Haghia Sophia 3 E4 (5 F3) Hoca Paşa Sok 5 D2
Eski Bahçe Sok 9 F2 Gazi Umur Paşa Sok 8 C1 Hakim Sok 6 C4 Hoca Rüstem Mektebi
Eski Belediye Önü Sok 10 B3 Gaziler Sok 6 B1 Hakimiyeti Milliye Cad 10 B2 Sok 5 D3
Eski Çeşme Sok 7 E3 Gazino Sok 8 B3 Hakkı Tarık Us Sok 5 D2 Hoca Rüstem Sok 5 D3
Eski Çiçekçi Sok 7 D4 Gedikpaşa Akarcası Hakperest Sok 1 B4 Hoca Tahsin Sok 3 E1
Eski Duyunu Umumiye Sok 4 B4 Halaskargazi Cad 7 F1 Hocaçakır Cad 1 A1
Sok 5 D1 Gedikpaşa Cad 2 C4 (4 B4) Halepli Bekir Sok 7 D3 Hora Sok 8 C1
Eski Ekmekçibaşı Sok 10 C4 Gedikpaşa Camii Haliç Cad 1 C3, 2 A1, 6 A5 Hörgüç Sok 6 A2
Eski Karakış Sok 8 B1 Sok 2 C4 (4 B4) Halıcılar Sok 4 A3 Horhor Cad 1 C5, 2 A3
Eski Keresteciler Sok 10 B2 Gedikpaşa Fırını Halil Efendi Çık 6 B4 Hortumcu Sok 7 D3
Eski Konak Sok 8 C3 Sok 2 C4 (4 A4) Halk Cad 10 B3 Hostes Rana Altınay
Eski Mahkeme Sok 10 B2 Gel Sok 8 C1 Halk Dershanesi Sok 10 A3 Sok 8 A2
Eski Mutaflar Sok 2 A2 Gelenbevi Sok 2 A1 Hamalbaşı Cad 7 D4 Hüdai Mahmut Sok 10 B3
Eski Yıldız Cad 8 C3 Gelin Alayı Sok 10 B3 Hamidiye Cad 3 D3 (5 D1) Hüdavendigar Cad 3 E3 (5 E2)
Esrar Dede Sok 2 A1 Gelincik Sok 8 C1 Hamidiye Türbesi Sok 5 D1 Hükümet Konağı
Eşref Efendi Sok 7 E1 Gelinlik Sok 5 D5 Hamsi Sok 1 C2 Sok 3 E3 (5 D2)
Eşref Saati Sok 10 A2 Gençtürk Cad 2 A3 Han Arkası Sok 4 B2 Hünnap Sok 10 C4
Esvapçı Sok 10 B3 Geniş Yokuş Sok 7 D3 Hanedan Sok 2 A1 Hüsam Bey Sok 2 A2
Ethem Ağa Sok 10 C2 Gerdanlık Sok 2 C5 (4 A5) Hanımeli Sok 4 C2 Hüseyin Ağa Camii Sok 4 B3
Ethem Paşa Sok 10 B4 Gevgili Sok 1 C1 Haraççı Ali Sok 3 D1 Hüseyin Baykara Sok 10 C1
Evkaf Sok 3 D4 (4 C4) Giriftzen Asım Çık 10 B3 Harbiye Çayırı Sok 7 E2 Hüseyin Hüsnü Paşa
Evliya Çelebi Cad 6 C5 Gökalp Ziya Sok 1 A5 Harem Ağası Sok 8 B3 Sok 10 C3
Evliya Hoca Sok 10 B2 Göknar Sok 8 B2 Harem Coach Station 10 A5 Hüseyin Remzi Bey
Göktaş Sok 3 D4 (4 C4) Harem İskele Cad 10 B4 Sok 1 C2, 2 A1
Gölbaşı Sok 7 D3 Harem Sahil Yolu 10 A4 Hüsnü Sayman Sok 8 C3
F Golden Horn 2 C1 Harikzedeler Sok 2 B4 Hüsrev Gerede Cad 8 A3
Fadıl Arif Sok 7 D2 Gönül Sok 6 C1 Harman Arkası Sok 6 B1 Hüsrev Paşa Sok 1 B3
Faik Paşa Yokuşu 7 E4 Grand Bazaar 4 B3 Harmancı Sok 1 B1
Faizci Sok 1 B2 Gül Dede Sok 1 A2 Has Fırın Cad 8 C3
Fakir Sok 7 D4 Gül Sok 8 A1, 10 C1 Has Odalar Çık 10 C4
I
Farabi Sok 7 E3 Gülfem Sok 10 B2 Hasan Baba Sok 2 A2 İbadethane Sok 2 A2
Fatih Cad 1 C3 Gülhane Park 3 E3 (5 F2) Hasan Bey Sok 10 C4 İbadullah Sok 6 B4
Fatih Mosque 1 C3, 2 A2 Gülleci Sok 7 D2 Hasan Cevdet Paşa Sok 8 A1 İbni Kemal Cad 3 E3 (5 D2)
Fatih Nişanca Cad 1 B2 Gültekin Arkası Sok 9 F2 Hasan Fehmi Paşa Cad 1 B2 İbrahim Müteferrika Cad 1 A4
Fatih Sultan Minberi Cad 6 A1 Gültekin Sok 9 F2 Hasbahçe Sok 10 A2 İbrahim Paşa
Fatih Türbesi Sok 2 A2 Gümrük Emini Sok 2 A4 Haseki Cad 1 BA Yokuşu 2 C4 (4 A4)
Fazilet Sok 2 A2 Gümrük Sok 3 E1 Hasırcı Veli Sok 8 C3 İbret Sok 5 D5
Fenerli Kapı Sok 3 E5 (5 E5) Gümüş Küpe Sok 7 D4 Hasırcılar Cad 3 D2 İcadiye Cad 9 F5
Ferah Sok 8 A1, 10 C3 Gümüşhaneli Sok 5 D3 Hasköy Mektep Sok 6 A2 Ihlamur Deresi Cad 8 B3
Ferhat Ağa Sok 2 A2 Gündoğumu Cad 10 B3 Hasköy Şişli Yolu 6 A2 Ihlamur Nişantaşı Yolu 8 A2
Feridiye Cad 7 E3 Güneşli Sok 7 E4 Hasnun Galip Sok 7 E4 Ihlamur Teşvikiye Yolu 8 A2
Feriköy Baruthane Cad 7 E1 Güney Sok 6 B1 Hasret Sok 9 E2 Ihlamur Yıldız Cad 8 B2
Fermanlı Sok 4 A4 Guraba Hastanesi Cad 1 A4 Hatice Sultan Sok 1 A2 İhsaniye Bostanı Sok 10 B4
Fesçi Sok 6 C3 Gürcü Kızı Sok 9 F2 Hatip Naci Sok 1 B5 İhsaniye İskelesi Sok 10 A4
Fesçiler Cad 4 B3 Güvenlik Cad 2 A4 Hatmi Sok 10 C2 İhsaniye Sok 10 A3
Fesleğen Çık 7 D3 Güzel Bahçe Sok 8 A2 Hattat İzzet Sok 2 A2 İhtiyatlı Sok 2 A2
Fesleğen Sok 7 D3 Güzel Sanatlar Sok 5 E3 Hattat Nazif Sok 2 A2 İlhan Sok 8 B3
Fethi Bey Cad 2 B4 Hattat Sok 4 B4 İlk Belediye Cad 7 D5
Fethi Çelebi Cad 1 A1 Hattat Tahsin Sok 8 B3 İlyas Çelebi Sok 7 F5
Fethi Paşa Korusu 10 C1
H Hava Sok 7 E4 İmam Adnan Sok 7 E4
Fethiye Cad 1 B2 Hacı Ahmet Bostanı Sok 6 C2 Havancı Sok 2 C3 (4 B1) İmam Hüsnü Sok 10 C1
Fethiye Kapısı Sok 1 C1 Hacı Ahmet Paşa Çık 10 A3 Havlucu Sok 1 C4 İmam Mesut Sok 1 B5
Fetva Yokuşu Sok 2 C2 Hacı Beşir Tekkesi Sok 5 E3 Havuz Kapısı Cad 6 C5 İmam Murat Sok 2 A4
Fevzi Paşa Cad 1 A2 Hacı Emin Efendi Sok 8 A2 Havuzbaşı Değirmen Sok 6 C5 İmam Nasır Sok 10 B2
Fevziye Cad 2 B3 Hacı Emin Paşa Sok 10 B4 Havyar Sok 7 E4 İmam Niyazi Sok 2 A2
Feylesof Sok 7 D2 Hacı Halil Efendi Sok 1 C5 Haydar Bey Sok 2 A2 İmaret Sabunhanesi Sok 2 B2
Feyzullah Efendi Sok 1 C4 Hacı Hasan Sok 2 A2 Haydar Cad 2 A2 Imperial Mint 3 E4 (5 F3)
Fil Yokuşu Sok 2 B2 Hacı Hesna Hatun Sok 10 C1 Haydar Hamamı Sok 2 B1 Imperial Porcelain
Fincancılar Sok 3 D3 (4 C1) Hacı Hüsrev Cad 6 C3 Hayri Efendi Cad 5 D1 Factory 9 E2
İmrahor Çeşmesi Sok 10 A3 Kameriye Sok 7 D4 Kaytancı Rasim Sok 7 E2 Küçük Ayasofya Camii
İmran Öktem Cad 3 D4 (5 D4) Kamil Paşa Sok 2 A3 Kayum Ahmet Sok 10 B5 Sok 4 C5
İnadiye Camii Sok 10 B4 Kamış Sok 1 C1 Kazak Sok 6 A2 Küçük Bayır Sok 7 E2
İnadiye Mektebi Sok 10 B3 Kan Kardeş Sok 6 C3 Kazancı Selim Sok 1 C1 Küçük Haydar Efendi
İnce Kaş Sok 7 D4 Kancabaş Sok 9 F5 Kazancı Yokuşu 7 F4 Sok 4 A4
İncili Çavuş Sok 3 E4 (5 E3) Kangal Sok 2 A1 Kazancılar Cad 2 C2 Küçük Langa Cad 2 A4
İnkılap Cad 2 A4 Kani Paşa Sok 2 B1 Kazani Sadi Sok 1 C5 Küçük Pazar Cad 2 C2
İnönü Cad 7 F4 Kanısıcak Sok 2 B1 Keçeci Meydanı Sok 1 A3 Küçük Şişhane Sok 7 E3
Inter-Continental Hotel 7 F3 Kantarcılar Cad 2 C2 Keçeci Piri Camii Sok 6 A3 Küçük Sok 5 D5
İpek Kaytan Sok 1 B2 Kanuni Medresesi Keçeciler Cad 1 A3 Küçük Yıldız Hanı Sok 4 C2
İpek Sok 7 E4 Sok 2 B3 (4 A1) Keçeciler Fırın Sok 1 B3 Kükürtlü Sok 7 E2
İplikçi Sok 6 C2 Kapanca Sok 7 E3 Kefevi Sok 1 B2 Külahlı Sok 1 A2
İrfan Ahmet Sok 2 A1 Kapı Ağası Sok 3 E5 (5 D5) Kelebek Sok 1 B2 Kulaksız Cad 6 B4
İrfaniye Sok 4 C2 Kapı Çık 10 B3 Kemal Türel Sok 8 B2 Kulaksız Hamamı Sok 6 B3
İşbaşı Sok 4 A4 Kapıkulu Sok 7 D5 Kemalettin Camii Kulaksız Yağhane Sok 6 B3
İshak Paşa Cad 3 E4 (5 F4) Kaptan Paşa Camii Sok 10 A3 Sok 2 C4 (4 A4) Külhan Sok 7 E5
Işık Çık 6 C4 Kaptan Paşa Sok 6 B2, 10 A2 Kemankeş Cad 3 E1 Külhanbey Sok 4 B4
Işık Sok 2 C5 (4 B5), 6C4 Kaptan Sinan Paşa Sok 1 B4 Kemeraltı Cad 3 E1 Kum Meydanı Sok 5 E1
İskele Mosque 10 B2 Kaputçular Sok 4 C1 Kenan Bey Sok 2 B5 Kum Odaları Çık 1 B3
İskender Boğazi Sok 4 B3 Kara Hasan Sok 9 D1 Kendir Sok 2 A2 Kumbaracı Başı Sok 9 E2
İskender Paşa Sok 1 C4 Kara Keçili Sok 1 A4 Kennedy Cad (Sahil Kumbaracı Yokuşu 7 D5
İslambol Cad 1 C3 Kara Koyunlu Sok 1 A4 Yolu) 2 A5 (5 E1) Kumkapı Hanı
İsmail Ağa Cad 1 C2 Kara Kurum Sok 7 D3 Kepenekçi Sabunhanesi Sok 2 C4 (4 A4)
İsmail Sefa Sok 2 B5 Kara Sarıklı Sok 2 A1 Sok 2 C2 Kumluk Sok 2 C5 (4 B5)
İsmetiye Cad 2 C3 (4 B1) Karabaş Cad 7 E5 Keramet Sok 6 C4 Kumrulu Sok 7 E5
Ispanakçı Sok 1 C2 Karabaş Deresi Sok 7 D5 Keresteci Hakkı Kumrulu Yokuşu 7 E4
Istanbul Handicrafts Karabatak Sok 7 E2 Sok 3 E5 (5 F5) Kurabiye Sok 7 E4
Centre 5 E4 Karabulut Sok 1 B2 Keresteci Recep Sok 7 E3 Kurban Sok 4 A4
İstasyon Arkası Karaca Ahmet Cemetery 10 C5 Kerpiç Sok 2 B1 Kurdele Sok 7 D3
Sok 3 E3 (5 E1) Karaca Sok 7 E3 Kesme Kaya Cad 1 B1 Kürkçü Çeşmesi Sok 1 B1
İstiklâl Cad 7 D4 Karacaoğlan Sok 10 B2 Keşşaf Sok 8 C2 Kürkçübaşı Mektebi
İtfaiye Cad 2 A2 Karadeniz Cad 2 A1 Kıble Çeşme Cad 2 C2 Sok 4 B5
Itri Sok 9 D1 Karagazi Sok 10 B2 Kılburnu Sok 7 E3 Kürkçüler Çarşısı
İttihat Sok 10 B3 Karagözcü Sok 1 B1 Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque 7 E5 Sok 4 B3
İzzet Paşa Sok 8 A5 Karakadı Sok 1 C4 Kılıççılar Sok 4 C3 Kürkçüler Pazarı Sok 4 C3
Karakaş Sok 9 E2 Kimyager Derviş Paşa Kurşunlu Medrese Sok 10 B2
Karaköy Cad 3 D1 Sok 2 B4 Kurt Ağa Çeşmesi Cad 1 B2
J Kardeşler Sok 6 A3, 8 B1 Kınalı Keklik Sok 7 E2 Kurtoğlu Sok 7 D2
Jandarma Mektebi Sok 8 B2 Kargılı Sok 5 E2 Kınalızade Sok 1 C3 Kurtuluş Cad 7 D2
Jurnal Sok 7 D5 Kariye Bostanı Sok 1 A1 Kirazlı Mescit Sok 2 B3 Kurtuluş Sok 7 D3
Kariye Türbesi Sok 1 B1 Kırbaççı Sok 2 A2 Kuru Çınar Sok 1 A2
Kartal Baba Cad 10 C3 Kiremit Cad 1 C1 Kuru Dut Sok 1 A3
K Kartal Baba Sok 10 C3 Kirişci Sok 10 C2 Kuruçeşme Kireçhane
Kaan Sok 6 B1 Kasap Hurşit Sok 7 E2 Kırkahyası Sok 7 D2 Sok 9 F1
Kabadayı Sok 7 D3 Kasap Osman Sok 3 D5 (4 C5) Kırma Tulumba Sok 2 A3 Kurultay Sok 2 B4
Kabakulak Sok 1 B2 Kasap Sok 1 B1 Kırmız Sok 9 E2 Kuruntu Sok 10 A3
Kabalak Sok 9 E2 Kasap Veli Sok 10 A3 Kırtay Sok 1 B3 Kuşoğlu Yokuşu 10 C2
Kabasakal Cad 5 E4 Kasap Zekeriya Sok 6 C4 Kıvrım Sok 2 A1 Kutlu Sok 7 F4
Kabile Sok 10 B3 Kaşar Sok 1 B1 Kıyak Sok 2 A1 Kutlugün Sok 3 E4 (5 F4)
Kaçamak Sok 1 B5 Kasatura Sok 7 E5 Kızılay Cad 6 B4 Kutucular Cad 2 C2
Kadı Çeşmesi Sok 2 A1 Kaşgarlı Mahmut Sok 1 A5 Kızılelma Cad 1 A5 Kuytu Sok 6 C5
Kadı Mehmet Paşa Sok 6 B4 Kasım Odaları Sok 1 B2 Kızıltaş Sok 2 B4 Kuyu Sok 7 E4, 10 C2
Kadı Mehmet Sok 6 B4 Kasımpaşa Akarcası Sok 6 C3 Kıztaşı Cad 1 C4, 2 A3 Kuyulu Bağ Sok 7 D1
Kadı Sok 6 C3 Kasımpaşa Bostanı Sok 6 C4 Klodfarer Cad 3 D4 (5 D4) Kuyulu Bahçe Sok 1 B1
Kadılar Cad 6 B2 Kasımpaşa Hasköy Cad 6 A3 Koca Ragıp Cad 2 B4 Kuyulu Bostan Sok 8 A2
Kadınlar Çeşmesi Sok 6 B2 Kasımpaşa Kabristanı Sok 6 B3 Koca Sinan Cad 1 B3 Kuyumcular Cad 4 B3
Kadırga Hamamı Kasımpaşa Sok 6 C4 Kocabaş Sok 7 D2 Kuzey Sok 6 A1
Sok 2 C5 (4 B5) Kasımpaşa Yağhanesi Sok 6 C4 Koçi Bey Sok 2 A4 Kuzukulağı Sok 7 E2
Kadırga Limanı Cad 2 C5 (4 B5) Kasımpaşa Zincirlikuyu Koçyiğit Sok 7 D3
Kadırga Meydanı Yolu 6 B4 Kokoroz Sok 7 D2
Sok 2 C5 (4 B5) Kasnakçılar Cad 2 B2 Kolcubaşı Cad 1 A4
L
Kadırgalar Cad 7 F2, 8 A4 Kassem Sok 10 B2 Koltukçu Sok 1 C2 Lala Şahin Sok 7 D1
Kadiriye Sok 6 A3 Katibim Aziz Bey Sok 10 C2 Kömürcü Mustafa Sok 4 A5 Laleli Cad 2 A4
Kadiriler Yokuşu 7 E5 Katip Çelebi Cad 2 B2 Konaklı Çık 10 B4 Laleli Çeşme Sok 3 D1
Kafesli Çadır Çık 4 B4 Katip Çelebi Sok 2 B2 Kopça Sok 2 A1 Lamartin Cad 7 E3
Kahya Bey Sok 7 D3 Katip Çeşmesi Sok 2 A5 Köprücü Sok 5 D1 Langa Bostanları Sok 2 A4
Kakmacı Sok 1 C5, 2 A4 Katip Kasım Bostanı Köprülü Konak Sok 10 B4 Langa Hisarı Sok 2 A5
Kalafatçı Yusuf Çık 6 B3 Sok 2 A5 Köprülü Mehmet Paşa Sok 1 A5 Langa Karakolu Sok 2 A4
Kalafatçı Yusuf Sok 6 B3 Katip Kasım Camii Sok 2 A4 Köprülüzade Sok 1 A5 Leander’s Tower 10 A3
Kalaycı Şevki Sok 4 A3 Katip Şemsettin Sok 2 B2 Körbakkal Sok 10 C4 Leman Sok 7 E3
Kaleci Sok 3 D5 (4 C5) Katip Sinan Camii Sok 4 C4 Korkut Ata Sok 1 B3 Lenger Sok 7 E4
Kalender Camii Sok 2 B3 Katip Sinan Sok 3 D4 (4 C4) Köroğlu Sok 1 C1 Leplebiciler Sok 1 C1
Kalender Mektebi Sok 2 B3 Katip Sok 10 C4 Korucu Sok 1 A2 Leylak Sok 8 C1
Kalenderhane Mosque 2 B3 Katırcıoğlu Sok 4 C2 Koska Cad 2 B4 Leylek Yuvası Sok 9 E1
Kalfa Efendi Sok 1 A1 Katmerli Sok 7 D2 Köşklü Hamam Sok 4 A4 Liva Sok 7 E4
Kalfa Sok 1 A3 Kavak İskele Cad 10 C5 Kovacı Camii Sok 1 C2 Lobut Sok 6 C5
Kalfazade Sok 1 A2 Kavaklı Bayırı Sok 10 B5 Kovacılar Sok 2 A2 Lodos Sok 1 B2
Kalıpçı Sok 8 A3 Kavaklı İskele Sok 10 B2 Köyiçi Cad 8 B3 Lokmacı Dede Sok 1 C2
Kallavi Sok 7 D4 Kavalalı Sok 2 A3 Kozacık Sok 8 A1 Lokumcu Sok 7 D2
Kalpakçı Çeşme Sok 1 C1 Kavuncu Hasan Sok 7 D3 Küçük Akarca Sok 7 E2 Loşbahçe Sok 8 B3
Kalpakçılar Başı Cad 4 B3 Kaya Hatun Sok 7 F1 Küçük Ayasofya Lozan Sok 9 E2
Kalyoncu Kulluğu Cad 7 D3 Kaypakoğlu Sok 9 F1 Cad 3 D5 (5 D5) Lüleci Hendek Cad 3 E1, 7 D5
Lütfü Efendi Sok 2 A3 Mimar Kemalettin Namık Paşa Sok 10 B3 Ortabahçe Cad 8 B3
Lütfü Paşa Sok 1 A5 Cad 3 D3 (5 D1) Nane Sok 7 E4 Ortakır Dere Sok 6 C2
Lütfullah Sok 4 B2 Mimar Mehmet Ağa Nanı Aziz Sok 10 B4 Ortakır Sok 7 D1
Cad 3 E4 (5 E4) Nar Sok 9 E2 Ortaköy Dere Boyu Cad 9 E2
Mimar Sinan Cad 2 C2 (4 A1) Nardenk Sok 8 B2
M Mimar Vedat Sok 3 D3 (5 D1) Nargileci Sok 4 B2
Ortaköy Kabristan Sok 9 E2
Ortaköy Mandıra Sok 9 F1
16 Mart Şehitleri Cad 2 B3 Miralay Şefik Bey Sok 7 F3 Narlıbahçe Sok 5 D2 Oruç Gazi Sok 2 A3
Mabeynci Yokuşu 2 B4 Miri Alem Sok 1 B5 Nasip Sok 7 D1 Oruçbozan Sok 2 A3
Mabut Sok 6 B4 Miri Kalem Sok 2 A1 Nasrettin Hoca Sok 10 C4 Örücüler Cad 2 C3 (4 B2)
Maç Sok 7 E4 Mirimiran Sok 7 E2 Nasuhiye Sok 4 B1 Osman Dede Sok 10 C2
Macar Bostanı Sok 7 D2 Mis Sok 7 E4 Naval Museum 8 B4 Osmanlı Sok 7 E4
Macar Kardeşler Mısır Buğdaycı Sok 7 D3 Necatibey Cad 3 E1, 7 E5
Otakçıbası Sok 1 A1
Cad 1 C3, 2 A3 Mısırlı Bahçe Sok 8 B3 Necip Asım Sok 1 A5
Otlukçu Yokuşu Sok 1 C3
Maçka Aktarlar Sok 8 A3 Mısırlı Sok 8 B3 Necip Efendi Sok 4 C2
Otopark Sok 10 B2
Maçka Cad 8 A3 Mithat Paşa Cad 2 C4 (4 A4) Nefer Sok 2 A3
Oya Sok 7 D3
Maçka Meydanı Sok 8 A3 Mıtrıp Sok 4 B4 Neşter Sok 1 A1
Maçka Parkı 7 F3, 8 A4 Molla Bayırı Sok 7 F4 Oyuncu Sok 3 E5 (5 E5)
Neva Sok 6 C4
Macuncu Sok 3 D3 (4 C2) Molla Bey Sok 2 C4 (4 A4) Neviye Sok 2 C5 (4 B4) Özbek Süleyman Efendi
Mahfil Sok 2 A4 Molla Fenari Sok 5 D3 Nevizade Sok 7 D4 Sok 1 B5
Mahmut Paşa Hamamı Molla Gürani Cad 1 B5 Nevşehirli İbrahim Paşa Özbekler Sok 3 D5 (4 C5)
Sok 4 C2 Molla Hüsrev Sok 1 C5, 2 A3 Cad 2 A2 Özoğul Sok 7 F5
Mahmut Paşa Mosque 3 D3 Molla Şemsettin Camii New Mosque 3 D2
Mahmutpaşa Mahkeme Sok 2 B3 Neyzen Başı Halil Can P
Sok 4 C2 Mollataşı Cad 2 B5 Sok 10 B4
Mahmutpaşa Mosaic Museum 3 E5 (5 E5) Nikah Sok 1 A3 Palace of the
Yokuşu 3 D3 (4 C2) Mosque of the Holy Nişanca Bostan Sok 2 B4 Porphyrogenitus 1 B1
Mahramaci Sok 2 A5 Mantle 1 B3 Nişanca Yokuşu 2 B4 Palanga Cad 8 C1
Maliye Cad 3 E1 Mosque of Selim I 1 C2 Niyazi Mısri Sok 1 A2 Palaska Sok 7 E5
Malta Pavilion 9 D2 Muallim Naci Cad 9 F2 Nizamiye Sok 7 E2 Parçacı Sok 2 C2
Manastırlı İsmail Hakkı Muammer Karaca Çık 7 D5 Nöbethane Cad 3 E3 (5 E1) Park Altı Sok 10 B5
Sok 10 B3 Müezzin Bilal Sok 1 B3 Nuh Kuyusu Cad 10 C4 Park Üstü Sok 10 B5
Manav Sok 2 B3 Müezzin Feyzi Sok 6 C5 Nükhet Sok 6 B1 Parlak Sok 10 A2
Mangalcı Sok 4 B1 Müftü Hamamı Sok 2 A1 Nurettin Tekkesi Sok 1 B2 Parmaklık Sok 2 A2, 8 C2
Manyasızade Cad 1 C2 Müftü Sok 1 B2 Nuru Ziya Sok 7 D4 Paşa Bakkal Sok 7 E3
Marmara Hotel 7 E4 Mühendis Emin Paşa Sok 4 B2 Nurtanesi Sok 8 B2 Paşa Camii Sok 4 B1
Marpuççular Cad 3 D3 (4 C1) Muhtar Hüsnü Sok 1 C4 Nuruosmaniye Cad 3 D4 (4 C3) Paşa Çeşmesi Yokuşu 6 B4
Marsık Sok 7 E2 Muhtar Muhiddin Sok 1 A2 Nuruosmaniye Paşa Hamamı Sok 1 B1
Maşuklar Sok 8 B3 Muhzırbaşı Sok 5 D1 Mosque 3 D4 (4 C3) Paşa Kapısı Cad 6 B4
Matara Sok 7 E5 Mukarrir Sok 1 C3 Nuruosmaniye Sok 4 C3 Paşa Kapısı Sok 10 B4
Mazharpaşa Sok 8 C3 Mukataacı Sok 8 B1 Nusretiye Mosque 7 E5
Paşa Limanı Cad 9 F5, 10 C1
Mebusan Yokuşu 7 F4 Münif Paşa Sok 1 B5 Nüzhetiye Cad 8 B2
Paşa Yokuşu Sok 6 B4
Mecidiye Mosque 9 F3 Münir Ertegün Sok 10 C1
Paşalı Hasan Sok 6 C3
Mecit Ali Sok 8 B3 Muradiye Bayırı Sok 8 A2
Meclis-i Mebusan Cad 8 A5 Muradiye Cad 3 E3 (5 D1) O Paşazade Sok 2 A4
Pavilion of the Linden
Meddah İsmet Sok 8 B3 Muradiye Deresi Sok 8 A2 Oba Sok 7 E4
Mehmet Ali Bey Sok 8 C3 Murakıp Sok 3 E1 Ocaklı Sok 1 C4 Tree 8 B2
Mehmet Çavuş Sok 10 C4 Murat Ağa Sok 10 B4 Odalar Sok 8 B3 Pehlivan Sok 4 A4
Mehmet Dede Sok 1 C2 Murat Efendi Sok 2 C2 Ödev Sok 3 D5 (4 C5) Pelesenk Sok 7 E3
Mehmet Karaca Sok 9 E2 Murat Molla Cad 1 C2 Odun İskelesi Sok 2 B1 Pera Palas Hotel 7 D5
Mehmet Murat Sok 5 E2 Murat Paşa Sok 1 C5 Öğdül Sok 10 A2 Perşembe Pazarı Cad 3 D1
Mehmet Paşa Değirmeni Mürbasan Sok 8 C1 Öğretmen Haşim Çeken Pertev Paşa Sok 3 D4 (4 C4)
Sok 10 A2 Mürsel Paşa Cad 1 C1 Sok 8 A1 Pervaz Sok 7 E2
Mehmet Paşa Yokuşu 2 B2 Musa Bey Sok 2 B2 Oğul Sok 3 E5 (5 D5) Peşkirağası Sok 7 E2
Mehmetçik Cad 8 A1 Müsahip Sok 9 F2 Öğüt Sok 7 E4 Peşkirci Sok 7 D3
Mektep Sok 6 B1 Müsellim Sok 4 B4 Oğuzhan Cad 1 B5 Peykhane Sok 3 D4 (4 C4)
Melek Hoca Cad 1 A2 Museum of Okçu Musa Cad 3 D1, 6 C5 Pilavcı Sok 1 A5
Melez Sok 6 B4 Calligraphy 2 C4 (4 A3) Okçu Yücel Sok 6 B3 Pir Hüsameddin Sok 6 C3
Mengene Sok 4 C3 Museum of Fine Arts 8 B4 Okçular Başı Cad 4 A3 Piremeci Sok 7 D5
Menteş Sok 9 F5 Museum of Turkish and Okmeydanı Cad 6 A2 Piri Mehmet Paşa Sok 6 A1
Mercan Cad 2 C3 (4 B2) Islamic Arts 3 D4 (5 D4) Öksüzce Hatip Sok 1 B4 Piri Sok 2 A2
Mercimek Sok 1 C2 Mustafa İzzet Efendi Sok 9 D1 Öksüzler Sok 1 C4 Pirinççi Kahyası Sok 6 C4
Mertebani Sok 2 D1 Mustafa Kemal Cad 2 A4 Okumuş Adam Sok 1 C4 Pırnal Sok 10 B3
Meşatlık Sok 1 A1 Mustafa Paşa Sok 5 D5 Ölçek Sok 7 E1 Pişmaniye Sok 6 C3
Meşelik Sok 7 E4 Müstakimzade Sok 1 C3 Ömer Efendi Sok 2 A2 Piyale Değirmeni Sok 6 B3
Mesih Paşa Cad 2 B4 Müstantik Sok 2 B1 Ömer Hayyam Cad 7 D3 Piyale Mektebi Sok 6 B3
Mesnevihane Cad 1 C2 Müsteşar Sok 4 A5 Ömer Rüştü Paşa Sok 8 A3
Piyale Mumhanesi Sok 6 B2
Meşruta Sok 9 F5 Mutumet Sok 1 C4 Ömer Seyfettin Sok 1 A5
Piyale Paşa Bulvarı 6 C1
Meşrutiyet Cad 7 D4 Müverrih Ali Sok 6 A2 Ömer Yılmaz Sok 2 A3
Piyale Paşa Cad 6 B1
Meşveret Sok 6 A2 Müvezzi Cad 8 C3 Omuzdaş Sok 7 D2
Piyerloti Cad 3 D4 (4 B4)
Mete Cad 7 F3 Onaltı Mart Şehitleri
Porsuk Sok 6 B2
Mevkufatçı Sok 1 B3 Cad 2 B3
Mevlevi Monastery 7 D5
N Ondalıkçı Sok 1 A5 Postacılar Sok 7 D5
Meymenet Sok 1 B3 Nakibül Eşref Sok 1 B5 Ondokuz Mayıs Cad 8 A1 Postane Yanı Sok 5 D1
Meyva Sok 7 E1 Nakilbent Sok 3 D5 (5 D5) Onur Sok 2 C5 (4 B4) Poyracık Sok 8 A2
Mezarlık Sok 6 A1 Nakkaş Haydar Sok 1 C2 Oran Sok 10 C2 Prince’s Mosque 2 B3
Midilli Sok 3 D1 Nalbant Camii Sok 2 B5 Ord Prof Cemil Bilsel Prof Kazım İsmail Gürkan
Mıhcılar Cad 2 A2 Nalbant Demir Sok 2 A2 Cad 2 C2 (4 B1) Cad 3 D4 (5 D3)
Mihrimah Mosque 1 A1 Nalçacı Hasan Sok 10 C4 Ördekli Bakkal Prof Naci Şensoy Cad 1 A2
Military Museum 7 F1 Nalıncı Bayırı Sok 6 B3 Sok 2 C5 (4 A5) Prof Sıddık Sami Onar
Millet Cad 1 A4 Nalıncı Cemal Sok 2 B1 Ordu Cad 2 A4 (4 A3) Cad 2 C3 (4 A1)
Mim Kemal Öke Cad 7 F1 Namahrem Sok 2 C2 Orhaniye Cad 3 E3 (5 E2) Pürtelaş Sok 7 F4
Mimar Çeşmesi Sok 2 A1 Namık Kemal Cad 2 A4 Örme Altı Sok 7 D5 Püskülcü Sok 1 B1
Salih Zeki Sok 1 C3 Semaver Sok 2 C3 (4 B2) Süleymaniye İmareti Sok 2 B2

R Salkım Söğüt Sok 5 E3 Şemsettin Sami Sok 1 B3 Süleymaniye Mosque
Ragıp Bey Sok 1 C5
Sallahi Uşakı Sok 6 C5 Şemsi Bey Sok 10 C1 2 C3 (4 A1)
Ragıp Gümüşpala Cad 2 C2
Salma Tomruk Cad 1 B2 Şemsi Efendi Sok 10 C1 Sultan Çeşme Cad 1 B1
Rahvancı Sok 4 C1
Samancı Ferhat Cad 7 D3 Şemsi Paşa Bostanı Sok 10 A2 Sultan Hamamı Cad 4 C1
Rami Kışla Cad 1 A1
Şamdancı Sok 4 A1 Şemsi Paşa Cad 10 A2 Sultan Mektebi
Rastıkçı Sok 4 C2
Sami Paşa Sok 1 B5 Şemsi Paşa Mosque 10 A2 Sok 3 D3 (4 C2)
Rebab Sok 8 B3
Samsa Sok 2 C5 (4 A5) Şemsi Paşa Rıhtımı Sok 10 A2 Sultan Selim Cad 1 C2
Recep Paşa Cad 7 E3
Refah Sok 2 A2 Samul Sok 3 D1 Sena Sok 1 B2 Sultanahmet Meydanı
Refik Saydam Cad 6 C5 Sanatkarlar Cad 7 E5 Şengül Hamamı Sok 5 E3 (Sultanahmet Square)
Reşadiye Cad 3 D2 Sanatkarlar Mektebi Sok 7 E5 Serdar Ömer Paşa Sok 7 D3 3 E4 (5 E4)
Reşat Ağa Sok 9 F1 Sancaklar Sok 1 C1 Serdar Sok 2 A2 (5 E1) Sulukule Cad 1 A2
Resne Sok 6 B3 Sandalcı İhsan Sok 4 A4 Serdar-ı Ekrem Sok 7 D5 Sümbül Sinan Sok 2 B4
Ressam Ali Rıza Sok 10 A3 Sandalcı Sok 7 D2 Serden Geçti Sok 6 B2 Sümbül Sok 7 D5
Revani Çelebi Sok 2 B3 Sandalyeciler Sok 4 B2 Şeref Efendi Sok 3 D4 (4 C3) Sümbülzade Sok 10 A3
Revani Sok 3 E1 Sansar Sok 10 C3 Serencebey Yokuşu 8 C3 Süngü Sok 7 E5
Revaniçi Sok 9 F1 Saraç İshak Sok 2 C4 (4 A4) Servi Kökü Sok 10 B5 Suphi Bey Sok 10 B5
Rıfat Efendi Sok 1 C1 Saraçhane Sok 2 A3 Servili Mescit Sok 5 D2 Suphi Paşa Sok 1 B5
Rıhtım Cad 3 E1 Saraka Sok 8 C1 Servilik Cad 10 C2 Süruri Çeşme Sok 6 C4
Rıza Paşa Sok 10 C4 Şarap Sok 3 E1 Set Sok 7 E5 Susam Sok 7 E5
Ruhi Bağdadi Sok 9 E1 Şarapnel Sok 2 B5 Setbaşı Sok 8 A3 Süslü Saskı Sok 7 E4
Rüstem Paşa Mosque 2 C2 Saray Ağası Cad 1 B2 Setüstü Sok 8 B1 Susuzbağ Sok 10 C1
Saray Arkası Sok 7 F4 Seyhan Cad 6 B1 Sütlaç Sok 1 B1
Saray Hamamı Sok 1 B4 Şeyhülislam Sok 4 C1
S Saray İçi Sok 2 C4 (4 B4) Seyit Ali Mescidi Sok 6 B3
Sarfinat Sok 2 B4 Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sok 5 F5
T
Sabuncu Hanı Sok 3 D3 (4 C1)
Sadi Çeşmesi Sok 1 C5 Sarı Abdullah Efendi Sok 1 C4 Seymen Sok 7 E1 Tabağan Bahçe Sok 10 C2
Sadıkoğlu Çık 8 C3 Sarı Beyazıt Cad 2 B2 Seyyah Sok 2 B5 Tabakçı Hüseyin Sok 8 B3
Şadırvan Çık 5 F5 Sarı Güzel Cad 1 B3 Sezai Selek Sok 8 A1 Tabakhane Sok 6 B4
Şadırvan Sok 3 E5 (5 F5) Sarı Mehmet Sok 10 C3 Şifa Hamamı Sok 3 D5 (5 D5) Tabaklar Camii Sok 10 C3
Sadri Maksudi Arsal Sok 7 E1 Sarı Musa Sok 1 B5 Şifahane Sok 2 B3 Tabaklar Kulhanı Sok 10 C3
Safa Meydanı Sok 7 D2 Sarı Nasuh Sok 1 B4 Sigortacı Sok 1 B5 Tabaklar Meydanı Sok 10 C3
Saffet Paşa Sok 2 B3 Sarı Zeybek Sok 3 D1 Silahhane Sok 8 A3 Tabur Sok 2 B5
Saffeti Paşa Sok 3 E3 (5 E2) Sarıbal Sok 9 E2 Silahtar Mektebi Sok 4 C4 Taburağası Sok 7 D2
Safi Efendi Sok 1 C5 Sarmaşık Çık 1 A2 Silistre Sok 1 C2 Tacirhane Sok 2 C3 (4 B2)
Safran Sok 1 B4 Sarmaşık Sok 1 A2 Şimal Sok 6 C5 Tahmis Cad 3 D2 (4 C1)
Sahaf Çeşmesi Sok 6 C2 Satır Sok 4 C4 Simitçi Sok 7 D3 Tahririye Sok 10 B3
Sahaf Kuyusu Sok 6 C3 Satırcı Sok 7 E2 Sinan Camii Sok 2 A1 Tahsin Bey Sok 3 D5 (4 C4)
Sahaflar Çarşısı Sok 4 A3 Savaklar Cad 1 A1 Sinan Paşa Köprü Sok 8 B4 Tahtakadı Sok 6 C3
Şahin Sok 6 A3, 6 B4, 7 E1 Savaş Sok 7 D1 Sinan Paşa Mescidi Sok 8 C3 Tahtakale Cad 2 C2 (4 B1)
Şahinde Sok 2 C3 (4 B1) Sazlıdere Cad 7 E2 Sinan Paşa Sok 6 B3 Tak-ı Zafer Cad 7 F3
Şahkulu Bostanı Sok 7 D5 Şebnem Sok 2 A1 Sincap Sok 8 B1 Taksim Cad 7 E3
Şahkulu Sok 7 D5 Şeftali Sok 5 E3 Sinekli Medrese Sok 4 B3 Taksim Fırını Sok 7 E3
Sahne Sok 7 D4 Şehin Şah Pehlevi Sinoplu Şehit Cemal Sok 8 A1 Taksim Parkı 7 F3
Şair Baki Sok 2 A1 Cad 3 D3 (5 D1) Sipahi Fırını Sok 6 C4 Taksim Square 7 E3
Şair Cem Sok 1 B4 Şehit Asım Cad 8 B3 Sıra Berber Sok 6 C4 Taktaki Yokuşu Sok 7 E4
Şair Fuzuli Sok 1 B4 Şehit Çeşmesi Sok 4 C5 Şıracı Sok 9 F1 Tali Sok 6 C5
Şair Haşmet Sok 2 B4 Şehit Mehmet Paşa Sok 4 C5 Sıraselviler Cad 7 E4 Talimhane Sok 7 D1
Şair Leyla Sok 8 B4 Şehit Mehmet Paşa Sirkeci Dede Sok 6 A5 Tanburacı Sok 1 B1
Şair Mehmet Akif Sok 1 B5 Yokuşu 3 D5 (5 D5) Sirkeci Station 3 E3 (5 E1) Tarakçı Cafer Sok 3 D3 (4 C2)
Şair Mehmet Emin Sok 1 A5 Şehit Mehmet Sok 8 A3 Şirket Sok 7 D3 Tarakçılar Cad 4 B2
Şair Nabi Sok 2 A1 Şehit Muhtar Bey Cad 7 E3 Sırrı Paşa Sok 1 A5 Tarakçılar Hanı Sok 4 C2
Şair Nahifi Sok 8 C3 Şehit Nuri Pamir Sok 9 E2 Şişhane Sok 6 C5 Tarcan Sok 7 D1
Şair Naili Sok 10 B3 Şehit Pilot Mahmut Nedim Siyavuş Paşa Sok 2 C3 (4 B1) Tarçın Sok 9 E2
Şair Nazım Sok 8 A3 Sok 1 C5 Sobacı Sok 6 B3 Tarlabaşı Cad 7 D4
Şair Necati Sok 9 F2 Şehla Sok 2 A1 Sobacılar Cad 2 C2 Taş Kesen Sok 6 A2
Şair Nedim Cad 8 B3 Şehnameci Sok 2 B4 Sofalı Çeşme Sok 1 A2 Taş Savaklar Sok 5 E3
Şair Nesimi Sok 10 B5 Şehsuvarbey Sok 3 D5 (4 C5) Softa Sinan Sok 1 B5 Taş Tekneler Sok 2 B3
Şair Niyazi Sok 1 C1 Şehzade Başı Cad 2 B3 Sofular Cad 1 C4 Taşbasamak Sok 9 E2
Şair Ruhi Sok 10 C3 Şeker Ahmet Paşa Sofular Tekkesi Sok 1 C5 Taşdibek Çeşmesi
Şair Sermet Sok 2 C5, 4 B5 Sok 2 C3 (4 B2) Sofyalı Sok 7 D5 Sok 3 D4 (4 C4)
Şair Veysi Sok 8 B3 Şekerci Sok 2 A4 Soğan Ağa Camii Taşkışla Cad 7 F2
Şair Zati Sok 10 C4 Sel Sok 6 B2 Sok 2 B4 (4 A4) Taşodaları Sok 2 B3
Şair Ziya Paşa Cad 3 D1 Selaltı Sok 8 B3 Soğancı Sok 7 E4 Tasvır Sok 3 D3 (4 C3)
Sait Efendi Sok 2 A4 Selami Ali Cad 10 B2 Soğukçeşme Sok 3 E4 (5 F3) Tatar Beyi Sok 3 D1
Saka Mehmet Sok 3 D3 (4 C1) Selami Hamamı Sok 10 C2 Söğütlü Bakkal Sok 1 B1 Tatar Hüseyin Sok 8 C2
Şakayık Sok 8 A2 Selamlık Cad 8 C3 Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Tatlı Kuyu Hamamı
Sakayolu Dere Sok 9 E1 Selamsız Kulhan Sok 10 C2 Mosque 3 D5 (4 C5) Sok 2 C4 (4 A4)
Şakir Efendi Çeşmesi Selanikliler Sok 10 C2 Solgun Söğüt Sok 8 A3 Tatlı Kuyu Sok 2 C4, 4 B4
Sok 4 A5 Selbaşı Sok 7 E1 Somuncu Sok 7 E4 Tatlı Sok 6 C4
Sakızağacı Cad 7 D3 Selçuk Sultan Camii Sok 1 C5 Sormagir Sok 7 F4 Tatlıcı Sok 1 B1
Sakızağacı Sok 8 A1 Selim Paşa Sok 2 A3 Spice Bazaar 3 D2 (4 C1) Tavaşi Çeşme Sok 2 B5 (4 A5)
Sakızcılar Sok 3 E1 Selim Sabit Sok 1 A4 Spor Cad 8 A4 Tavla Sok 7 E3
Salacak Bostanı Sok 10 A3 Selime Hatun Camii Sok 7 F4 Spor Sok 6 B1 Tavşan Sok 7 E3
Salacak İskele Arkası Selimiye Barracks 10 B5 Su Terazisi Sok 5 D5 Tavşantaşı Sok 2 B4
Sok 10 A3 Selimiye Camii Sok 10 B4 Su Yolu Sok 2 A2 Tavuk Sok 9 E1
Salacak İskele Cad 10 A3 Selimiye Hamamı Sok 10 B5 Sublime Porte 3 E3 (5 E2) Tavuk Uçmaz Sok 7 F4
Salçıklar Sok 9 D3 Selimiye İskele Cad 10 B5 Sucu Baki Sok 4 B4 Tavukçu Bakkal Sok 10 B3
Saldırma Sok 1 B1 Selimiye Kışla Cad 10 B5 Sulak Çeşme Sok 7 F4 Tavukhane Sok 3 E5 (5 D5)
Şale Pavilion 9 D2 Selman Ağa Bostanı Sok 10 C2 Şule Sok 2 A1 Tavukpazarı Sok 4 C3
Salı Sok 10 C4 Selman Ağa Sok 10 B2 Süleyman Nazif Sok 7 F1 Taya Hatun Sok 3 E3 (5 E2)
Salih Paşa Cad 2 B1 Selmanı Pak Cad 10 B2 Süleymaniye Cad 2 B3 (4 A1) Tayyareci Etem Sok 7 F4
Tazı Çık 10 C2 Tülcü Sok 2 C4 (4 B4) Vatandaş Sok 1 B4 Yeniçeriler Cad 2 C4 (4 B3)
Teceddut Sok 2 A4 Tulip Mosq

Ghid Istanbul

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Main Contributors Rosie Ayliffe, Rose Baring,

Photographers Anthony Souter, Linda Whitwam, Francesca Yorke

Illustrators Richard Bonson, Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross,

Printed and bound in China

First American Edition, 1998

Published in the United States by Dorling Kindersley Limited,

The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Tile panel in the Paired Pavilions of Topkapı

The Bazaar Quarter 86

Greater Istanbul 110

Where to Eat and

Men smoking bubble pipes in Çorlulu Ali

Getting to Istanbul 236

Street Finder 246

General Index 264

Phrase Book 279

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Finding your way around Istanbul

Blue Mosque marks the site of the

1 Area Introduction This

chapter. The major sights

are covered in more detail. 8 Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts

Each area has colour-

coded thumb tabs.

The area shaded pink q Cistern of 1,001 Columns

detail on the Street-

by-Street map on the

ÖZBEKLE R S OK Ş E CA SO AM THE BAZAAR

DI H MET TA V UKHAN DD QUARTER

A A SO İ I This marble Medusa head is one of two

Two of Istanbul’s most OvenerableN monuments, the Blue

classical column bases found in the

Mosque NT and Haghia other DI K

dates from the reign of Justinian

2 Street-by-Street Map This

(see p163) adorn the inside of this

sellers, and the chatter of children selling postcards.

tomb, which is part of the outer Carpet Museum

heart of each sightseeing complex of the Blue Mosque.

area. Interesting features are

Towering above Mosque

labelled. There is also a list of Sultanahmet Square are the VA

six beautiful minarets of this Fountain YO

“star sights” that no visitor Egyptian

should miss. 7 Museum of Turkish and 1 . Haghia Sophia

Islamic Arts K The supreme church of

Yurts, used by Turkey’s nomadic S Byzantium is over 1,400 years

Key figurative mosaics.

Mozaik Müzesi Islamic Arts restored and reopened in 2012

Arasta Çarşısı, Sultanahmet. Türk ve İslam as the Hürrem Sultan Hamamı.

20 km (12 miles) north of here to observe Turkish craftsmen

Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm. Map 3 D4 (5 D4). Tel (0212) 518 18 05. Serpentine

9am–7pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar:

Bazaar, among a warren 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. ∑ tiem.gov.tr

of small shops, this

museum was created Over 40,000 items are on display K

in the most interesting and

This vast underground water

Istanbul Area Map

four main sightseeing areas used

full chapter in Istanbul Area by Area G O

(pp50–109). They are highlighted

the top sights. The introduction