Plan Your Trip 12

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

İstanbul
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go
and the hardest part is over.

So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PL ANET

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Virginia Maxwell, James Bainbridge

 Contents
Plan
PlanYour Trip page 1
YourTrip
Welcome to İstanbul........4
İstanbul’s Top 10..............6
What’s New..................... 13
Need to Know................. 14
First Time........................ 16
Getting Around............... 18
Explore İstanbul 
Sultanahmet
& Around.......................p52
Bazaar District............. p91
Western Districts....... p112
Understand İstanbul
İstanbul Today............. 186
Survival Guide 
Transport..................... 208
İstanbul Maps 
4
Top Itineraries................20 Eating............................ 29
If You Like........................22 Drinking & Nightlife... 36
Month by Month.............24 Entertainment............. 39
With Kids.........................26 Shopping.......................42
Like a Local..................... 27 Hamams & Spas..........46
For Free...........................28
48
Beyoğlu.......................p123 Day Trips................... 161
Beşiktaş, Nişantaşı Sleeping.................... 177
& Ortaköy.................... p147
Kadıköy........................p155
185
History.......................... 188 İstanbul on
Page & Screen.............202
Architecture..................197
207
Directory A–Z............... 214 Index............................. 229
Language...................... 218
236
 CRISTINA ARIZA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ISTANBUL_IMAGE_VIDEO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
(left) Subterranean
Basilica Cistern p76

DANITA DELIMONT/GETTY IMAGES ©

(above) Streets of the
Galata District p127

(right) Gate detail,

Topkapı Palace p61

Beşiktaş, Nişantaşi
& Ortaköy
p147

Western
Districts
p112 Beyoğlu
p123

Bazaar
Sultanahmet
District
& Around
p91
p52

Kadıköy
p155
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
20
Top Itineraries
Day One
Sultanahmet & Around (p52)
M Head to Aya Sofya Meydanı (Aya
Sofya Sq) and work out which of the
museums and mosques in the immediate
area will be on your visiting list. Don’t miss
Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque and the
Basilica Cistern. After your visits, wander
through the Hippodrome, where chariot
races were held in ancient times.
Lunch Join local workers at one of
the humble lokantas (eateries serving
ready-made food) in the area – Sefa
Restaurant (p82) is a popular choice.
Sultanahmet & Around (p52)
Diverge from the crowded tourist
R trail and follow our walking tour
down into the Küçük Ayasofya neighbour-
hood. Afterwards, source some souvenirs in
the historic Arasta Bazaar.
Dinner Have fish at Balıkçı Sabahattin
(p84) or kebaps at Hamdi Restaurant
(p105).
Sultanahmet & Around (p52)
After dinner, claim a table at Derviş
N Aile Çay Bahçesi or Cafe Meşale,
where you can enjoy tea, nargile (water
pipe) and a free (but very touristy) whirling-
dervish performance. Alternatively, head
to the A’YA Rooftop Lounge at the ritzy
Fours Seasons Hotel. In winter a treatment
at one of the Old City’s Ottoman-
era hamams is a relaxing and warm
alternative.
Day Two
Sultanahmet & Around (p52)
M It’s time to investigate the lifestyles
of the sultans at Topkapı Palace.
You’ll need a half-day to explore the palace
Harem, marvel at the precious objects in
the Treasury, admire the recently renovated
palace kitchens and wander through the
pavilion-filled grounds.
Lunch Investigate the excellent cheap
eateries on Sirkeci’s Hocapaşa Sokak;
old-fashioned Hocapaşa Pidecisi (p83)
is one of our favourites.
Beyoğlu (p123)
Explore the streets, cafes and
R boutiques of Galata, Tophane,
Karaköy and Çukurcuma and consider a
visit to the eclectic Pera Museum or
nostalgic Museum of Innocence.
Dinner Beyoğlu is the city’s eating and
drinking hotspot. Enjoy a pre-dinner
drink at a hipster bar in Asmalımescit
before enjoying fine meyhane-style food at
Eleos (p135) or modern Turkish cuisine at
Neolokal (p133).
Beyoğlu (p123)
The night is still young! Hit the
N bars and clubs in Asmalımescit,
on İstiklal Caddesi or in Harbiye and
Cihangir. Those who are still hungry
should instead head to Karaköy for a
ate-night baklava fix at Karaköy
Güllüoğlu.

Day Three
Bazaar District (p91)
M Get ready to explore the city’s
famous Bazaar District. After visit-
ing the most magnificent of all Ottoman
mosques, the Süleymaniye, make your
way to the world-famous Grand Bazaar
to explore its labyrinthine lanes and
hidden caravanserais, picking up a few
souvenirs along the way.
Lunch Grab a cheap eat in or around
the Grand Bazaar; head to Dürümcü
Raif Usta (p107) or Dönerci Şahin
Usta (p107) for kebap, and Bena Dondurmaları
(p107) for something sweet.
Bazaar District (p91)
After lunch follow the steady
R stream of local shoppers making
their way down the hill to the Spice
Bazaar. While there, seek out the exqui-
site Rüstem Paşa Mosque, camouflaged
in the midst of a busy produce market. As
the sun starts to set, walk across Galata
Dinner Beyoğlu has restaurants,
meyhanes and street food aplenty
– explore these on a night-time food
tour with İstanbul Eats (p89), İstanbul on Food
(p146) or Urban Adventures (p103).
Bridge towards the eating and entertain-
ment district of Beyoğlu.
Beyoğlu (p123)
Listen to some live jazz at Nardis
N or Salon. Alternatively, take a
21
PL A N YO U R TRI P T op I tineraries
Day Four
The Bosphorus (p162)
M Board the Long Bosphorus Tour
(Uzun Boğaz Turu) for a one-way
trip up the Bosphorus and then make
your way back to town by bus, visiting
museums and monuments along the way.
Alternatively, take the Dentur Avraysa
hop-on, hop-off tour from Beşiktaş and
visit the Sakıp Sabancı Museum in
Emirgan and the Ottoman-era Küçüksu
Kasrı and Beylerbeyi Palace.
Lunch If the weather is fine, enjoy a
light lunch in the Hıdiv Kasrı Garden
Cafe (p169). In cooler weather try one
of the cafes in the shadow of majestic Rumeli
Hisarı – we particularly like the casual Sade
Kahve (p169).
Beyoğlu (p123)
If you take a 90-minute cruise on
R a Bosphorus excursion boat rather
than the full-day or hop-on, hop-off trip,
you can devote the afternoon to investigat-
ing Beyoğlu’s exciting contemporary-art
Dinner It’s time to sample the national
dish, kebaps – head to Antiochia (p134)
or Zübeyir Ocakbaşı (p135) to enjoy a
meaty feast.
scene. Don’t miss the İstanbul Modern,
ARTER and Pera Museum.
Beyoğlu (p123)
Bid farewell to the city over a post-
N dinner drink at one of Beyoğlu’s
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
2 36

İstanbul Maps
Sights Information Routes
Beach Bank Tollway
Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway
Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary
Castle/Palace Internet Secondary
Christian Police Tertiary
Confucian Post Office Lane
Hindu Telephone Unsealed road
Islamic Toilet Road under construction
Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall
Jewish Other Information Steps
Monument Tunnel
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass
Ruin Beach Walking Tour
Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour
Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail
Taoist Lighthouse
Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International
Other Sight Oasis State/Province
Park Disputed
Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb
Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park
Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff
Diving Wall
Canoeing/Kayaking Population
Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek
Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River
Snorkelling Town/Village Canal
Surfing
Swimming/Pool Transport Water
Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Windsurfing Border crossing
Reef
Other Activity Bus

Sleeping
Cable car/Funicular Areas
Cycling
Airport/Runway
Sleeping Ferry
Camping Metro station Beach/Desert
Monorail
Eating Parking
Cemetery (Christian)
Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other)
S-Bahn/Subway station
Drinking & Nightlife Taxi
Glacier
Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat
Cafe Train station/Railway
Park/Forest
Tram
Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building)
Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station
Sportsground
Other Transport
Shopping Swamp/Mangrove
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above
appear on the maps in this book
 1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
MAP INDEX Hasköy
1 1 1 1 1 1
Musevi1 OKMEYDANI 1 1 1 Yıldız
Feriköy NIŞANTAŞI ORTAKÖY
1 Sultanahmet & Around – 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Park
Mezarlıgı Mezarlığı
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
1 BOZKURT
North (p238) 1 1 1 1 1 1
HALICIOĞLU 1 1 1 1 1 YILDIZ
KURTULUŞ
1 1 1 1 1
2 Sultanahmet & Around – Maçka
1 1 1 1 1
HARBIYE
HASKÖY Park BEŞİKTAŞ
South (p240) EYÜP 1 1 1
1 1 1
3 Bazaar District (p242) "
Ð
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KÜÇÜK ELMADAĞ
4 Beyoğlu – Northeast (p244) PIYALE
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5 Beyoğlu – Southwest (p248) 1
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2 37
238
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2 Topkapı Palace.............. C3 10 Gülhane Kandil
Tesisleri....................... B3 þ Shopping (p88)
æ Sights (p77) 11 Güvenç Konyalı ............. A2 17 Özlem Tuna.................... A2
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Islam ............................ B2 15 Cihannüma .................... B4 20 Sirkeci Mansion............. B3
8 Soğukçeşme Sokak...... C4 16 Kybele Cafe.................... B4 21 Zeynep Sultan Hotel..... B4
 2 39

SULTANAHMET & AROUND – SOUTH Map on p240

æ Top Sights (p54) ý Entertainment (p88)
1 Aya Sofya ......................................................F1 37 Les Arts Turcs..............................................D1
2 Basilica Cistern ............................................E1
3 Blue Mosque................................................D4 þ Shopping (p88)
4 Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts ...........C3 38 Cocoon......................................................... D5
39 Cocoon......................................................... E5

SULTANAHMET & AROUND – SOUTH

æ Sights (p77) 40 Galeri Kayseri...............................................B1
5 Arasta Bazaar..............................................E4
6 Aya Sofya Tombs........................................ F2
7 Carpet Museum .......................................... G1
8 Fountain of Sultan Ahmet III ..................... G1
9 Hippodrome ................................................C3
10 Imperial Gate............................................... G1
11 Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain .........................D2
12 Little Aya Sofya ...........................................A6
13 Marmara University Republican
Museum ....................................................B4
14 Museum of Great Palace Mosaics............ E5 Ø Sports & Activities
15 Nakkaş..........................................................C5
16 Obelisk of Theodosius................................C4
17 Rough-Stone Obelisk .................................C4
18 Sokullu Şehit Mehmet Paşa Mosque .......A4
19 Sphendone ..................................................C5
20 Spiral Column..............................................C4 ÿ Sleeping
21 Sultanahmet Archaeological Park............ F2
ú Eating (p82)
22 Ahırkapı Balıkçısı......................................... F6
23 Balıkçı Sabahattin.......................................G5
Cheers Soul Kitchen.........................(see 58)
24 Çiğdem Pastanesi....................................... B1
25 Cooking Alaturka ........................................ F5
26 Deraliye ........................................................ D1
27 Erol Lokantası.............................................. B1
28 Hafız Mustafa ..............................................D2
29 Karadeniz Aile Pide ve Kebap Salonu ...... C1
30 Palatium....................................................... F3
31 Sedef İskender ............................................ B1
32 Tarihi Çeşme Restaurant...........................A6
33 Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim
Usta ...........................................................D2 68 Hotel Nomade..............................................D1
û Drinking & Nightlife (p84)
A'YA Rooftop Lounge .......................(see 60)
34 Cafe Meşale .................................................E4
35 Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi .............................E3
Hotel Nomade Terrace Bar .............(see 68)
36 Lâle Pastanesi .............................................D2
41 İznik Classics................................................F3
42 İznik Classics............................................... D5
43 Jennifer's Hamam ...................................... E5
44 Jennifer's Hamam ......................................D6
45 Khaftan ........................................................ C5
46 Mehmet Çetinkaya..................................... E4
47 Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery........................ D5
Nakkaş ................................................ (see 15)
48 Yilmaz Ipekçilik ........................................... E4
(p89)
49 Ambassador Spa.........................................D1
50 Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı ............F2
51 Cooking Alaturka........................................ F4
52 İstanbul Walks............................................. C5
(p179)
53 Agora Guesthouse ..................................... F4
54 Ahmet Efendi Evi ........................................ F6
55 Arcadia Blue Hotel ..................................... B3
56 Bahaus Hostel............................................. F4
57 Big Apple Hostel ......................................... F4
58 Cheers Lighthouse ..................................... B6
59 Dersaadet Hotel..........................................D6
60 Four Seasons Istanbul at
Sultanahmet .............................................F3
61 Hanedan Hotel............................................G3
62 Hotel Alilass................................................. F4
63 Hotel Alp Guesthouse................................G3
64 Hotel Amira ................................................. B6
65 Hotel Empress Zoe.....................................G3
66 Hotel Grand Peninsula...............................G4
67 Hotel Ibrahim Pasha .................................. B4
69 Hotel Peninsula...........................................G3
70 Hotel Şebnem .............................................G3
71 Marmara Guesthouse................................G3
72 Metropolis Hostel.......................................G4
73 Osman Han Hotel .......................................G4
74 Sarı Konak Hotel..........................................F5
24 0

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1 Grand Bazaar ........................D5 Kahveci ........................(see 1)
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æ Sights (p99)

ba zaar district
37 Pandeli ................................... E2
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24 4

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24 6

BEYOĞLU – NORTHEAST Map on p244

æ Top Sights (p125) 25 5 Kat ............................................................. E6
1 İstiklal Caddesi............................................C5 26 Araf...............................................................C4
2 Pera Museum ..............................................A6 27 Cafe Grand Boulevard ............................... B5
28 CUE İstiklal .................................................. B6
æ Sights (p127) 29 Haspa ...........................................................D4
BEYOĞLU – NORTHE AST

3 Akbank Art...................................................D4 30 Indigo ...........................................................B6

4 Avrupa Pasajı...............................................B5 31 Kloster.......................................................... B5
5 Aya Triada....................................................E4 32 Manda Batmaz............................................ B6
6 Çiçek Pasajı .................................................C5 33 MiniMüzikHol .............................................. E6
7 Fish Market..................................................B5 34 Solera...........................................................C6
8 Galatasaray Lycée ......................................C6 35 Tek Yön ........................................................ E5
9 Galerı Nev.....................................................B6 36 Topless Teras .............................................D4
10 İstanbul Arastırmaları Enstitüsü...............A6 37 Urban ........................................................... C5
11 Mixer.............................................................E4
12 Taksim Meydanı..........................................E3 ý Entertainment (p142)
13 Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi ...........................B5 38 Başka Sinema ............................................. C5
39 Garajistanbul............................................... B6
ú Eating (p131) 40 Jolly Joker.................................................... C5
14 Çukur Meyhane...........................................C5 41 Munzur Cafe & Bar..................................... D5
15 Çukurcuma 49 ............................................D5
16 Cuma ............................................................C6 þ Shopping (p143)
17 Hacı Abdullah ..............................................C4 42 A La Turca ................................................... D5
18 Hayvore........................................................C5 43 Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir .............................D4
19 İnci Pastanesi ..............................................D4 44 Antijen Design.............................................C6
20 Kafe Ara........................................................B6 45 Hafız Mustafa.............................................. E4
21 Klemuri.........................................................D5 46 Mephisto...................................................... C5
Pera Café ............................................. (see 2) 47 Nahıl .............................................................D4
22 Savoy Pastanesi..........................................D6 48 Pandora .......................................................D4
23 Zencefil.........................................................D4 49 Petek Turşuları ........................................... B5
24 Zübeyir Ocakbaşı........................................D4 50 Reşat Balık Market..................................... B5
51 Seyahan....................................................... B5
û Drinking & Nightlife (p140) 52 Sütte Şarküteri ........................................... B5
360........................................................ (see 9) Üç Yıldız Şekerleme ......................... (see 52)
 247

BEYOĞLU – SOUTHWEST Map on p248

æ Sights (p127) 46 Leb-i Derya .................................................. D2
1 Arab Mosque ...............................................B4 Mikla....................................................(see 81)
2 ARTER .......................................................... D1 47 Off Pera.........................................................C1
3 Azapkapı Sokollu Mehmet Paşa 48 Old Java ....................................................... D3
Mosque......................................................A4 49 Parantez ...................................................... C2

BEYOĞLU – SOUTHWEST
4 Christ Church ..............................................D3 50 Ravouna 1906 ..............................................D1
5 Depo .............................................................E3 51 Ritim Galata.................................................C4
6 Galata Mevlevi Museum.............................C2 52 Sensus Wine Bar ........................................ C3
7 Galata Tower ...............................................C4 53 Smyrna ......................................................... F1
8 Galerist......................................................... C1 54 Unter ............................................................ E4
9 İstanbul Modern.......................................... F3
10 Museum of Innocence.................................E1 ý Entertainment (p142)
11 Museum of Turkish Jews...........................B3 55 Borusan Art..................................................C1
12 Pera Palace Hotel ....................................... C1 Galata Mevlevi Museum .....................(see 6)
13 SALT Galata.................................................C4 56 Nardis Jazz Club.........................................C4
14 The Empire Project......................................F1 57 Salon ............................................................ B2

ú Eating (p131) þ Shopping (p143)

15 Aheste ..........................................................C2
16 Antiochia......................................................C2
17 Asmalı Canım Ciğerim ............................... C1
18 Asmalı Cavit................................................. C1
19 Cafe Privato.................................................C3
20 Dandin .......................................................... F3
21 Datlı Maya .....................................................F1
22 Demeti.......................................................... G1
23 Eleos .............................................................C2
24 Güney ...........................................................C3
25 Hamdi Restaurant Pera ............................. B1
26 Helvetia Lokanta .........................................C2
27 Jash............................................................... G1
28 Journey .........................................................F1
29 Kahve 6 .........................................................F1
30 Karaköy Güllüoğlu ......................................D5
31 Karaköy Gümrük.........................................D5
Karaköy Lokantası............................(see 79)
32 Mavra............................................................D3
33 Meze by Lemon Tree.................................. C1 Ø Sports & Activities
Mikla ................................................... (see 81)
34 Namlı Gurme ...............................................D5
35 Neolokal .......................................................C5 ÿ Sleeping
36 Sahrap ..........................................................C2
37 Sofyalı 9 .......................................................C2
û Drinking & Nightlife (p140)
38 Alex's Place.................................................. C1
Cihangir 21 .........................................(see 28)
39 Coffee Sapiens............................................ F3
40 Dem ..............................................................D4
41 Federal Coffee Company...........................C3
42 Fil...................................................................E4 84 Vault Karaköy.............................................. C5
43 Geyik..............................................................F1
44 Karabatak ....................................................E4
45 Kronotrop .....................................................F1
58 Artrium......................................................... C3
59 Arzu Kaprol ................................................. C3
60 Bou Art & Design ........................................ E4
61 Denizler Kitabevi..........................................D1
62 Eyüp Sabri Tuncer...................................... E4
63 Hamm .......................................................... E2
64 Hiç ................................................................D3
65 İroni ..............................................................C4
66 La Cave Wine Shop ..................................... F1
67 Lale Plak....................................................... C2
68 Mabel Çikolata ............................................ D5
69 Mariposa.......................................................G1
70 Mekhann...................................................... E2
Misela.................................................. (see 15)
71 NYKS ............................................................ D2
72 Opus3a..........................................................G1
73 Selda Okutan............................................... E4
74 Tezgah Alley.................................................C1
(p146)
75 Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı ................................ E3
(p182)
76 Bankerhan Hotel.........................................C4
77 Casa di Bava................................................. E1
78 Hamamhane ................................................ E1
79 Karaköy Rooms .......................................... E4
80 Louis Appartements .................................. C3
81 Marmara Pera..............................................C1
Pera Palace Hotel..............................(see 12)
82 Rapunzel Hostel .........................................C4
83 TomTom Suites ...........................................D1
85 Witt Istanbul Hotel ......................................F2
86 World House Hostel ................................... C3
24 8

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æ Sights (p150)
2 Askeri Müze .................................................A2 ú Eating
3 Çırağan Palace ............................................E3
Fehime Sultan Yalı .............................. (see 4)
4 Hatice Sultan Yalı....................................... H2
5 İstanbul Naval Museum .............................D4
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7 Ortaköy Mosque .........................................G3
8 Palace Collections Museum......................D4
10 Yıldız Porselen Fabrikası ............................F2
11 Yıldız Şale ..................................................... E1 û Drinkin
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12 Alancha ........................................................ C3 22 Love D
13 Banyan.........................................................G2 23 Malta
14 Foodie ...........................................................B1 24 Reina
15 Hünkar ......................................................... A2 25 Sortie
16 Kantın........................................................... B3
17 Pare Baklava Bar ........................................ B2 þ Shoppin
18 Saat Kule Cafe ............................................ C5 26 City's
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 2 52
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k ÿ
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254

KARİYE MUSEUM
1 38 36
3 A 2 39 G 40 Annex
4 34
5B 5A 37 35
41B 41A
kariye museum

7 B 6 50C
43 H 44
8 42
9B 9A
Outer 45B 45A
Narthex
Exit 11 10 47 I 48 50A Nave Apse
C
12 46
49B 49A
13B 13A 32 29
Inner
15 D 14 Narthex 50B
16 31 J 33
17B 17A 27
19 E 18 30 28
26B 26A
20
77 68 78 67 60 57
22 53
76 75
21 Parecclesion L
F K 25 P 65 U 56 O N M 51
64
69 72 70 63 62 59 55 54 52
23 24 7473
71 66 61 58

Entrance

æ Mosaics 15 Elizabeth & John the Baptist running away

1 The voyage of the Virgin to Bethlehem & from a pursuing soldier
the dream of Joseph 16 Remains of mosaics
2 The census held for the enrolment for 17A Depiction of the saints
taxation & registration of Mary & Joseph 17B Depiction of the saints
in the presence of Cyrenius, Governor of 18 The scene of King Herod’s investigation & a
Syria guard standing
3 Jesus going with Mary & Joseph to 19 The mourning mothers
Jerusalem 20 No mosaics left
4 Remains of mosaics – Jesus among the 21 A decorative medallion
doctors in the temple 22 The meeting of Jesus with the Samaritan
5A St Trachos woman at the well
5B St Andronikus 23 The healing of a paralysed person by Jesus
6 The birth of Jesus 24 King Herod giving the order for the
7 The return of the Virgin Mary with Jesus massacre of the innocents & the
8 The attempts of Satan to deceive Jesus execution thereof
9A St Georgios 25 Remains of mosaics
9B St Demetrius 26A The healing by Jesus of a young man with
10 Jesus & the inscription ‘the dwelling-place an injured arm
of the living’ 26B The healing by Jesus of leprous man
11 The prayer of the Virgin & the attendant 27 Twenty-four of the early ancestors of Jesus
angels (Genealogy of Christ)
12 The wedding at Cana & the miracles 28 The healing by Jesus of a woman asking for
13A Depiction of the saints the restoration of her health
13B Depiction of the saints 29 The healing by Jesus of the mother-in-law
14 The Magi on their way to Jerusalem riding of St Peter
on horseback & the three Magi in 30 The healing by Jesus of a deaf person
audience with King Herod
 255

31 Dispersion of good health by Jesus to the æ Frescoes

people 51 The Anastasis
32 The healing by Jesus of two blind men 52 The Church fathers
33 The Khalke Jesus & the praying Virgin 53 The raising (resurrection of the widow's
34 Mary and the Baby Jesus surrounded by son)

kariye museum
her ancestors 54 The healing of the daughter of Jairus
35 Joachim in the mountains praying to have a 55 The Virgin Elousa
child 56 The Last Judgement
36 No mosaics left 57 Abraham & the beggar Lazarus on his lap
37 The breaking of the good news of the birth 58 St George
of Jesus to Mary – The Annunciation 59 Rich man burning in Hell's fire
38 The chief priest Zacchariah judging the 60 Those entering Heaven & the Angel
Virgin Seraphim with the semi-nude good thief
39 Mary & Joseph bidding each other farewell 61 Depiction of Andronikus II & his family &
40 The breaking of the good news of the birth the inscription & depiction above of
of Mary to Anne Makarios Tornikes & his wife Eugenia
41A The meeting of Anne & Joachim 62 The Bearing of the Ark of the Covenant
41B Joseph bringing the Virgin into his house 63 St Demetrius
42 Mary in the arms of Anne & Joachim & the 64 St Theodore Tiro
blessing by the priests 65 Mary & child Jesus with the 12 attending
43 Giving of the stick with young shoots angels
indicating Joseph as Mary’s fiancé 66 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
44 The birth of the Virgin Mary Cosmos
45A The first seven steps of the Virgin & below, 67 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
St Peter John of Damascene
45B The prayer of the chief priest Zacchariah in 68 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
front of the 12 sticks Theophanes
46 The presentation of Mary (age three) to the 69 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
temple by her parents Joseph
47 The Virgin taking the skeins of wool to 70 St Theodore Stratelates
weave the veil for the temple 71 King Solomon & the Israelites
48 Theodore Metochites presenting a small 72 Placement into the temple of the Ark of the
model of the church to Jesus Covenant
49A The feeding of the Virgin by an angel & 73 The combat of an angel with the Asurians in
below, St Peter the outskirts of Jerusalem
49B Remains of mosaics – Directives given to 74 St Procopios, St Sabas Stratelates
the Virgin at the temple 75 Moses in the bushes
50A The Assumption of the Virgin 76 Jacob's ladder & the angels
50B Mary and the Baby Jesus 77 Aaron & his sons carrying votive offerings,
50C Jesus in a standing posture, holding the in front of the altar
Bible in his hand 78 St Samonas & Guiras
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Our Story
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London,
Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share
Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writers
Virginia Maxwell
Bazaar District, Beyoğlu, Kadıköy, Day Trips
Although based in Australia, Virginia spends part of each year in Turkey. As well
as working on the previous five editions of this city guide, she also writes Lonely
Planet’s Pocket İstanbul, covers İstanbul, İzmir and the North Aegean for the
Turkey guide, and writes about the city for a host of international magazines and
websites. Virginia also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survive sections of this guide.

James Bainbridge
Sultanahmet & Around, Western Districts, Beşiktaş, Nişantaşı & Ortaköy
James is a British writer based in South Africa’s Cape Winelands, where he
writes for publications worldwide. He has been working on Lonely Planet pro-
jects for more than a decade, including coordinating five editions of Turkey,
writing the first edition of Discover Turkey and contributing a major feature on
Turkey to Lonely Planet Traveller magazine. He was extremely happy to return to his old stomping
ground of İstanbul, where he once lived and took a Turkish-language course.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited

CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-
9th edition – February 2017 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
ISBN 978 1 78657 228 8 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-
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