Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Food Technology and Nutrition, School of Agriculture, Lovely Professional University, Phagwara,
2
1. Introduction
One of the most important temperate fruit crops of the world is apple (Malus domestica Borkh.). The
major apple-producing countries of the world are China, USA, India, Germany, France, Italy and Turkey
(FAO, 2018). In India, apple is commercially cultivated in the states of Jammu & Kashmir, Himachal
Pradesh, Uttarakhand and Arunachal Pradesh. It is used for both dessert and processing purposes, such
as apple juice concentrate, vinegar, apple sauce, juice, butter, preserve, candy, jam, jellies, canned and
alcoholic beverages (cider, wine, vermouth and brandy).
Out of these beverages, cider is a low alcoholic drink produced from apple, a popular beverage
especially in those countries where grapevine cultivation is not practiced due to the prevailing agro-
climatic conditions. Worldwide, cider varies in alcohol content from less than 1.2 per cent alcohol by
volume (ABV), as found in French cidredoux, to 8.5 per cent ABV in traditional English ciders. In the
United States of America, the legal definition of cider for tax purposes specifies 7 per cent or lower
ABV; anything above 7 per cent ABV falls into a different tax category – it can still be called cider, but
is taxed at a different rate (Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms 1998). France is the world’s largest
cider-producing country. Normandy and Brittany in Northern France is the main apple cider-producing
region and is famous for its traditional sweet cidre. Some restaurants even substitute a bottle of cider
for the usual free bottle of wine (Herrero et al., 2001). The United Kingdom leads the world in hard
cider production and consumption, though the United States of America is catching up. The quantity of
cider produced is second only to the wine produced from grapes. Out of the two, cider has become an
increasingly important commercial product in recent years (Jarvis et al., 1995). It was a common drink at
the time of Roman invasion of England in 55 BC and was drunk throughout Europe in the third century
AD. Commercial cider production started during the 19th century. Today, Bullmers alone makes 65 per
cent of the 5 million hectolitre cider produced in UK.
Recently, low alcoholic beverages have gained importance in preventing cardiovascular diseases.
Wine consumption prevents the formation of LDL and increases HDL levels (having protective effects
against heart diseases) (Joshi et al., 1999). The use of hops in cider and spices has enhanced the
antimicrobial activity and is considered significant (Joshi and Siby, 2002). Here, in this chapter, the word
‘cider’ is used to describe the fermented juice of apple. Details of its production and its quality and factors
effecting it have been described.
2. History
The first record of cider was documented in 1205. Description of cidermaking in the Mediterranean basin
is found in the works of the Roman writer Pliny during the first century AD (Pliny, 1967). Thereafter,
its production appears to have moved toward north, so that cidermaking was well established in France
by the time of Charlemagne (9th century) and probably was introduced in England from Normandy
well before Duke William’s conquest in 1066 (Revier, 1985; Roach, 1985). Cider was established in
the Basque country well before the 12th century and by the 11th and 12th centuries, it was also being
made in Contentin, the area around Caenand in the Paysd’ Auge. During the 13th century, it was found
in Southeast England and by the end of 15th, and the beginning of 16th centuries, its production had
spread to Eastern Normandy, as well as to Brittany, but it remained a drink mainly of poorer classes. The
continuing preference of the people of Brittany for wine during the 16th century is well attested by the
large quantities of wine imported through the Breton ports. By the 17th and 18th centuries, its production
in England had reached something of an art form and had become the subject matter of a number of
learned discourses. In the aftermath of the Napoleonic wars, corn growing and cattle rearing became
more profitable. Naturally, orchards and consequently, cidermaking received less skilled attention. Fallen
trees were replaced with worthless seedlings and the enormous volume of cider produced was of low or
indifferent quality, resulting in depressed prices. Even much of the trade was given to cider merchants,
who bought everything wholesale at their own price; thus, the quality of cider started deteriorating at that
time. During the 19th century, imports of continental and American apples began to the market in Britain.
Cider apples were grafted over the table type and eventually, led to the growth of the specialised table
apple industry. During the 19th century, the popularity and quality of cider declined, until it became a little
more than a cheap source of alcohol for itinerant farm workers and acquired its unfortunate ‘scrumpy’
image. Increasingly, since 1900, however, cider has prospered in new markets and the last decade has
witnessed an increase in sales against a generally static or declining consumption pattern for many other
types of alcoholic drinks. During 19th and 20th centuries, cider and perry were produced and consumed
throughout the world, for more details, see Unwin (1980).
1. Definition
Cider: It is a beverage obtained by the complete or partial fermentation of the juice of fresh apples or a
mixture of the juice of fresh apples and fresh pears, with or without the addition of drinking water.
2. Characteristics of Cider
Pure juice cider Other cider
Actual potential alcohol by volume Minimum 5 per cent 4 per cent
Total dry extract Minimum 16 g/l 13 g/l
Without sugar Minimum 1 g/l -
Volatile acid Maximum 1.4 g/l as acetic acid 1.4 g/l as acetic acid
Iron Maximum 150 mg /l 150 mg /l
with low sugar and without carbon dioxide. Dry cider is without sugar and with an alcohol content of 6-7
per cent, whereas ciders having alcohol content not more than 1.2 per cent alcohol by volume are made by
removing the alcohol from strong cider by thermal evaporation, by reverse osmosis or generally by adding
apple juice to it (Jarvis, 1993). The cider produced by the ‘Methode Champenoise’ is called champagne
cider (Downing, 1989). Sparkling sweet cider is produced by fermenting apple juice containing not more
than 1 per cent alcohol (v/v) and the natural CO2 formed during fermentation is retained. Sparkling cider
has lower sugar and higher alcohol content of 3.5 per cent but with partial retention of CO2 formed during
fermentation. Carbonated cider is charged with commercial CO2 to produce effervescent.
4.1. Cultivars
Cider makers know from repeated observations that some cultivars have good, stable pressing properties,
while others give lower yields or yields which decrease considerably upon maturation (Guillermina et
al., 2006). Theoretically, cider can be prepared from any apple but choice of right cultivar is one of
the important factors influencing the quality of cider (Downing, 1989). Broadly, the cider apples are
classified into four categories (Cider Advisory Committee, 1956):
1. Bittersweet – high in tannin, low in acid
2. Bittersharp – high in tannin, high in acid
3. Sharp – low in tannin, high in acid
4. Sweet – low in tannin, low in acid
Further, different varieties of apple suitable for cidermaking have also been recommended (Table
2). The type of apple grown in countries like France and England for fermentation into cider are usually
unsuitable for other products because of their very high content of pectin-estrase and total phenol content
than that of dessert apples (Burroughs, 1973). The phenolic compounds increase the tendency to enzymatic
browning during juice extraction and the polymers of the catechins and leucoanthocyanins, which
contribute huge bitterness and astringency to the cider. It has been used for many years as a criterion for
classification of juice for suitability for fermentation into cider. However, to specify which apple variety
584 Applied Aspects of Winemaking: Production of Wine
makes the best cider is difficult (Beech and Carr, 1977). Still the use of apple juice concentrate for cider
production has increased considerably due to several advantages offered by it, such as price stabilisation,
quality maintenance and storage of concentrate for a long time without spoilage (Downing, 1989; Joshi et
al., 1991), though it leads to a loss of development of specific cultivars for cidermaking (Beech and Carr,
1977; Labelle, 1979; Jarvis et al., 1995). Since more than the cultivars, fermentation conditions effect the
quality of cider, the varietal effect is not given much importance these days. In India, cider production
is in infancy and the suitability of Indian varieties for cider production has not been adequately worked
out, though Ambri-Kashmiri, Red Delicious, Golden Pippin, Maharaji apples and crab apples, Golden
Delicious, Red delicious and Rus Pippin have been found suitable for cider making (Joshi et al., 1991;
Joshi et al., 1994). A comparative study of scabbed fruits with normal fruits showed that fruits with less
than 15 spots did not affect the fermentation behaviour or the physico-chemical and sensory qualities
of cider produced (Azad et al., 1987). Guillermin et al. (2006) compared technological and rheological
properties of two cider apple cultivars, Avrolles and Doucecoetligne. Cvr Avrolles had higher juice yield
and rheological characters than to Doucecoetligne. Use of cultivar and pasteurisation also has effect on
formation of alcoholic beverage. In a study done by Hang and Woodams (2009) on the influence of apple
cultivar juice pasteurisation on the methanol content of the wines showed that among the four cultivars
used, crispin apple yielded more methanol in hard cider than Empire, Jonagold or Pacific rose apples.
However, pasteurisation of crispin apple juice reduced the methanol content.
• Dabinett, Michelin, Chisel Jersey, Harry Masters Jersey, Yarlington Bitter sweet
Mill, Viberie, Medaille, Bedan, Kermerrein
• Breakwells seedling, Backwell Red, Brown’s Apple, Crimson King, Sharp/Bitter sharp
Stoke Red Frederick, Kingston Black
• Sweet Copin, Sweet Alford, Northwood Sweet
Source: Labelle, 1980; Pourlx and Nicholas, 1980; Rana et al., 1986; Vyas and Kochhar, 1986; Jarvis
et al., 1995
Source: Gebhardt et al., 1982; Mitra, 1991; Sharma and Joshi, 2005; Upshaw et al., 1978
Compound Example
Phenolic acids Chlorogenic acid
Phloretin derivatives Phloridzin
Simple catechins (-) Epicatechin
Condensed procyanidins B2
Flavonol glycosides Anthocyanins
Source: Gebhardt et al., 1982; Mitra, 1991; Sharma and Joshi, 2005; Upshaw et al., 1978
586 Applied Aspects of Winemaking: Production of Wine
Number of yeasts/ml
solids to the apple juice leads to the production of undesirable physico-chemical characteristics on the
apple wine (Joshi et al., 2013). Thus, to prepare quality apple wine, juice without insoluble solids by pre-
settling and clarification using pectolytic enzyme should be practiced.
Source: Amerine et al., 1980; Frazier and Westhoff, 1995; Jarvis, 1993
4.7. Temperature
The temperature affects the rate of fermentation and nature of metabolites formed. It takes 3 to 4 weeks
to attenuate cider fermentation at temperatures within the range of 20-25°C. Although temperature of
15-18°C is preferred for flavour development in Germany and France, the optimum temperature for cider
fermentation was found to be 15-18°C (Jarvis et al., 1995). Higher temperature increases the rate of
fermentation but enhances the chances of contamination with undesirable thermophillic microorganisms
(Frazier and Westhoff, 1995). The changes in viable cell count, ethanol, glucose, fructose and sucrose
during cider fermentation at 20°C with Saccharomyces cerevisiae have been noted.
Method -2 Lower sugar, higher Juice extracted, no Lactic acid added to Pure yeast such as – –
acidity maceration, juice increase acidity, if Steinberg added
centrifuged for needed
bacteria and yeast
removal
Method -3 Sound fruits separated by Juice extracted in – Natural fermentation Storage in concrete Before delivery,
flotation hydraulic press from 1.008-1.005 sp. tanks lined with wooden cider is sweetened
gravity coatings with syrup
Method -4 – – – Fermentation allowed up Stored in wooden casks Carbonated and
to TSS of 5-7.5°B filtered bottled
or centrifuged
American
Method -1 (a) Sound apples are used Juice is extracted Sulphur dioxide Spontaneous fermentation – Clarified by
for cider making in usual press after 100-125 ppm added, may begin during settling bentonite
crushing in a mill glucose added to give treatment, blended
13 per cent alcohol to give 10°B,
filtered, bottled
and pasteurised
(b) Juice extraction Juice made from Sweetened Yeast Champagne, 24.4°C – –
instead of apple juice concentrate temperature was the best
concentrate used
589
Over the years, cider apples have been classified into various categories (see earlier section on
cultivars) based on the properties of the juice they yield. A recent classification is based on the level of
flavour, acids and tannins (Beech and Carr, 1977). Apples for cidermaking should be mature and free
from starch. Blending has always been an important step in controlling uniformity of the finished product
and suggestions for blending have also been made (Pourlx and Nicholas, 1980). The preferred procedure
is to use fermented stock for blending because the effect of fermentation on the fresh juice cannot always
be accurately predicted.
Juice from apples in the sweet group is generally, considered good for blending with strong flavoured
juices, while that in the bittersweet group gives cider a tangy sensation. Juice for making sparkling sweet
cider should neither be sweet nor too heavy in the body. Astringency is considered less important than
the correct sugar/acid ratio. Campo et al. (2007) showed that in the apple musts with high content of acid
and phenols, having malo-lactic fermentation first followed by alcoholic fermentation, had comparatively
low production of acetic acid.
The sweet, low-acid cultivars, such as Delecious, Cortland, Ben Davis and Rome beauty are
recommended for basic juice, while those of Jonathan, Stayman Winesap, Northern Spy, Rhode Island
Greening, Wayne, Newtown possess higher acid levels and add tartness to the cider. MacIntosh,
Gravenstein, Ribston Pippin, Golden Russet, Delecious are aromatic and add flavour and bouquet to the
cider. The body and flavour can be improved by using astringent apples, such as Red Astrakhan, Lindel,
and crab apples. A good thumb rule is to add less than 10 per cent of astringent cider to an acidic cider
and not more than 20 per cent should be added to any blend.
A screw press that is well adapted to apple juice production is the Reitz press system. Electroacoustic
dewatering process is also one of the recent methods that employs passing of electric current through
the pulp prior to pressing has been claimed to release a higher yield of juice. Immediately after pressing,
the juice is treated with sulphur dioxide, which acts both as antioxidant to prevent browning of the juice
and a preservative by destroying wild yeast and bacteria (Bump, 1989). From an economic standpoint,
maximum recovery of juice is most important for cheap cider production. Cider can also be produced
from the apple concentrate directly after diluting it to a desired Brix level.
The composition of musts may also control the bacterial population. In fact, a pH lower than 3.5 is
recommended for initial musts (Jarvis et al., 1995) and apple varieties rich in phenolic compounds are
usual in cidermaking (Guyot et al., 1998). Juices of pH >3.8 should be brought down to this value by
592 Applied Aspects of Winemaking: Production of Wine
blending or acid addition and then, 150 ppm SO2 is added. However, it has been noted that juices with
pH 3.8 could not be satisfactorily treated within the legal limit of 200 ppm SO2 (Beech, 1972; Burroughs,
1973). After sulphiting, the juice should be allowed to equilibrate for a minimum of six hours before free
SO2 is determined. In countries where legal limits of sulphur dioxide lower than 200 ppm are prescribed,
the best approach would be to use only good microbial quality fruit, maintain good plant sanitation and
monitor the pH of the raw material. In Table 11, the amount of sulphur dioxide to be added to the juice
of particular pH is given.
5.5. Amelioration
In alcoholic beverage-production terminology, correction of raw material to make a product of consistent
quality is referred to as amelioration, i.e. adjustment of the sugar and/or acid content of the juice, as
regulated by the respective standards. Controlling the sugar content of apple juice is required to maintain
the proper final alcohol content. It is achieved by the addition of water, juice from the second pressing of
the pomace, sugar, or concentrated juice. Initial sugar concentration (ISC) influences the quality of the
cider and its value of 20°B was found optimum (Joshi and Sandhu, 1997). Fortification of apple juice after
dilution from its concentrate with diammonium hydrogen phosphate is essential for rapid fermentation, as
discussed earlier. The must prepared by direct dilution of the concentrate reportedly ferments faster than
that ameliorated with sugar (Joshi et al., 1991; Joshi and Sandhu, 1994).
5.6. Inoculation
The traditional method of cidermaking does not employ any external source of yeast. The indigenous
micro-flora of apple in the order of 5×104 cells per gram of stored fruits carries out spontaneous
fermentation (Lea, 1995). After sulphiting the juice, it is inoculated with the desired yeast culture in case
of inoculated fermentation, wherever employed. The growth of yeasts, acetic acid and lactic acid bacteria
can be excluded by washing and sorting of apples before milling and pressing. High counts of bacteria
(including lactic acid bacteria) were observed during alcoholic fermentation and storage of cider. The
levels of LAB found in musts fermented in small vessels, using acid-washed apples, were low. However,
the must fermented by using unwashed apples but blended with different varieties had a limited number
of microorganisms only. The growth of microorganisms could have been limited by fermentation and
storage temperature of 10°C together with low pH (Ribereau-Gayon et al., 1975). A yeast strain making
a clean-tasting beverage, with a minimum of yeasty flavour and a maximum fermentation rate along with
other desirable characteristics, is selected for the preparation of cider. The use of a mixed inoculum of
S. uvarum and S. bayanus is a widespread practice, on the grounds that the first yeast provides a speedy
start, but the second will cope up better with the fermentation to dryness to produce high alcohol level.
These dried yeasts require no pre-propagation and are simply hydrated in warm water before pitching
directly into the juice. A small quantity of heat-sterilised juice is inoculated with a dry culture or liquid-
nitrogen-frozen culture and after fermentation, the inoculum is added to a larger volume of sulphited juice.
The procedure is continued until a final inoculum of 1 per cent or greater by volume is obtained. It may be
added that not many different cultures are actually used in cidermaking (Beech and Carr, 1977), such as
A.W. Y.350r (Saccharomyces uvarum) (Australian Wine Research Institute, Aldaide), Champagne strains,
Champagne Epernay, Geisenheim GE 1 (Institute for Microbiology and Biochemistry at Geisenheim),
Cider: The Production Technology 593
Pinnacle (No. 729), Montrachet (UCD 522) or Champagne A.Y.D. (Australian Wine Research Institute,
Aldaide Universal Foods Corporation, USA).
A comparison of two methods of cidermaking has also been made with respect to evolution of
microbial population and malo-lactic fermentation (Deunas et al., 1994). The two methods were: the
traditional method where unwashed apples of different varieties were used and in the other, a sole acidic
varieties of apple with temperature control during fermentation was used. The frequency distribution
(%) of yeast species isolated during cidermaking is summarised in Table 12. The occurrence of malo-
lactic fermentation together with alcoholic fermentation is not considered desirable in French and
English ciders (Salih et al., 1990) and degradation of malic acid occurs after alcoholic fermentation.
However, it does not occur until the population of lactic acid bacteria reaches 106 CFU/ml (Deunas et al.,
1994). Interestingly alcoholic fermentation was carried out by Kloeckera apiculata and Saccharomyces
cerevisiae and the distribution was found similar in both the methods. In the traditional method, the malo-
lactic fermentation proceeded at the same time as alcoholic fermentation but in the modified method, no
malo-lactic fermentation occurred, but produced cider with lower volatile acid. Controlled malo-lactic
fermentation in cider using Oenococcus oeni immobilised in alginate beads has been made as a starter
culture (Herrero et al., 2001). Malic acid degradation was similar to that with free cells of Oenococcus.
Immobilised cells synthesised less ethanoic acid and ethyl ethanoate but the profile of evolution of
pyruvic acid, shikmic acid and succinic acid was similar. The immobilised cells produced more ethanol
during earlier four days but it declined during the later periods. The results are promising with respect to
production of better quality cider but may need more research work (Nedovic et al., 2000).
Another interesting approach for continuous production of cider was attempted with the use of Ca-
alginate material to co-immobilised Saccharomyces bayanus and Leuconostoc oenos in one integrated
biocatalyst system which permitted much faster fermentation than traditional cidermaking with better
flavour fermentation. After completion of fermentation, D-lactate was produced while L-lactate progress
of lactic acid bacteria in cidermaking also took place.
Period of fermentationa
Species A B C
Sacchromyces cerevisiae 1b 12 42 78
Zygosaccharomyces cidri 1 - 2 -
Zygosaccharomyces florentius 1 2 2 -
Kloeckera apiculata 2 68 52 12
Sacchromycodes ludwigii 2 4 - 2
Candida pulcherrima 3 6 - -
Rhodotorula rubra 3 2 - 2
Torulasporadel brueckii 3 2 2 -
Candida vini 3 2 - 2
Pichiamem braaefaciens 3 2 - 4
Source: Deunas et al., 1994
a A: After barrel filling, at beginning of alcoholic fermentation; B: Active fermentation (density at 20°C
between 1.0351.005); C: at the end of alcoholic fermentation (density at 20°C below 1.005).
b 1: Yeasts with strong fermentative metabolism; 2: apiculata species with low fermentative activity; 3:
5.7. Fermentation
Mostly stainless steel tanks are used these days for fermentation of cider (Downing, 1989) though
traditionally barrels of oak have been used for this purpose. Wooden barrels or vats of mild steel, with
a ceramic or resin lining, bitumen lined, concrete vats and, more recently, stainless steel and even lined
594 Applied Aspects of Winemaking: Production of Wine
fibre glass-resin vats or tanks have been employed commonly for cider fermentation. The former may
still be employed but today most companies use vertical stainless steel tanks while other cidermakers
use conico-cylindrical vats. These tanks may be equipped with temperature controlled systems, level
indicators and carbon dioxide venting and blanketing systems. Correct sulphiting of the juice and proper
cleaning of all the equipment will help ensure a good start to fermentation.
The best procedure for assuring a good fermentation is to employ larger inocula as all yeast strains
perform in the same manner at the same concentrations. Either juice or cider, if exposed to air during
fermentation, will usually develop a surface film of acetic acid bacteria or yeast. This aerobic spoilage can
be prevented by excluding the air from the vats properly by sulphiting the juice. Treatment of juice before
inoculation influences the fermentation. Heated juice ferments faster than unheated juice but sulphited
juices ferment slower than those not treated with sulphur dioxide. The availability of soluble nitrogen
in the juice affects the rate of fermentation of cider. Fermentation with Schizosaccharomyces pombe
reduced the malic acid in several fruits, including apple (Azad et al., 1986), though with low rate of
alcohol production (Parkand John, 1980). Leuconostoc has also been employed to reduce the acidity
of the fermented product. Simultaneous inoculation of apple juice with Saccharomyces cerevisiae and
Schizosaccharomyces pombe produced cider with acceptable levels of alcohol and acidity. Ion exchange
sponge with tailored surface charge for immobilisation of Saccharomyces cerevisiae encouraged yeast
growth but reduced fermentation (O’Reilly and Scott, 1993). In most of the ciders studied, the malo-lactic
fermentation and the alcoholic fermentation started at the same time.
The best flavoured cider is generally produced by a slow fermentation process. The rate of
fermentation may be controlled by maintaining the temperature around 16°C, by reducing the yeast
population by racking or by the addition of sulphur dioxide. However, if the cider fermentation is too
slow, it may be susceptible to cider sickness, imparting milky white appearance to the cider with a sweet
pungent odour. This condition is encouraged at the elevated temperatures but is reduced in ciders with 0.5
per cent malic acid. Occasionally, fermentation may be slowed down or even stalled. Aeration has been
found useful for restoring yeast activity in such cases (Burroughs and Pollard, 1954). Stuck fermentations
could be restarted if the temperature could be 12-13°C, some fermentable sugar remained and at least
10,000 yeast cells per ml are present in the fermenting musts (Whiting, 1961).
A process was developed, based on alcoholic fermentation of the available carbohydrates present
in ciders. The impact of inhibitors at different pH, size and reuse of inocula and different nutrient
supplementation on the ethanol yield were evaluated. The use of a 0.5 g/l yeast inoculum and corn steep
water as the nutrient source allowed depletion of the sugars in less than 48 hours, which increased the
content of ethanol to more than 70 g/l (Seluy et al., 2018).
5.8. Clarification
Juice and cider can also be clarified and one of the clarification treatments consists in adding gelatine. This
treatment can be used either on the juice before fermentation or on cider before bottling. By removing
selectively high DP procyanidins, this treatment modifies both the total tannin content and the profile of
the residual tannins, and thus, may change the composition and the taste. However, the most common
clarifying method in French cidermaking uses endogenous pectin methyl esterase as a clarifying agent.
Calcium is added to induce a formation of a calcium pectate gel that includes all particles of the cloudy
juice. This gel is then, separated by ‘natural’ flotation due to CO2 bubbles of the beginning fermentation.
This process produces a pectin-free clarified juice with a reduced nitrogen amount and results in slower
fermentation and better stabilisation (Que´re et al., 2006).
After completion of fermentation, the cider is left on the lees for few a days to facilitate the yeast to
autolyse, thereby adding enzymes and amino acids to the cider. The cider will be separated from the lees
and transferred after clarification into the storage vats or storage tanks (Jarvis, 1993). Initial clarification
may be performed by the natural settling of a well-flocculated yeast, by centrifugation, by fining, or by a
combination of all the three. Typical fining agents are bentonite, gelatine, isinglass or chitosan. Gelatine
forms a block with negatively charged tannins in the cider and brings down other suspended materials by
entrapment, and can also be used together with bentonite for similar effect.
Cider: The Production Technology 595
Aluminium-spotted caps are not satisfactory for bottling of cider due to excessive corrosion but
vinyl spotted caps are satisfactory for this purpose. Inert gases like CO2, N2 or their mixture can also
be used for storage of cider (Cant, 1960). Locally sold, still cider may be sold in plastic containers used
for or dispensed from a refrigerated bulk container. When refrigerated, cider remains stable for a week.
Carbonated cider is either sterile-filtered or flash-pasteurised before packaging. Various requirements to
be fulfilled for labelling bottled cider as select cider (Champagne) process are enumerated in Table 15.
Table 15. Requirements for Labelling Bottled Cider as Select Cider (Champagne) Process
• To be made from clean sound cider apples only or from a blend (including pears).
• No sweeteners other than cane sugar or beet can be added.
• No additions of concentrate or other fruit juice, foreign acids, artificial essences or artificial carbonation
be done.
• To the undiluted juice or battery diffusion juice may be added not more than 25 per cent of its own
volume of syrup made from pure cane or beet sugar. The original specific gravity of the pure juice and
cider to which the syrup was added must not be less than 1.040 at 15°C.
• No preservative or colouring matter prohibited by the Public Health Regulations be added.
• Acetic acid should not be discernible on the palate and volatile acidity not to exceed 0.15 per cent as
acetic acid.
• To be free of disorders.
• The last stages of fermentation must take place in the bottle and the deposit removed by disgorging
6. Quality of Cider
6.1. Chemical Composition of Cider
The most important compounds formed during fermentation which are considered key products effecting
sensory profile of cider are higher alcohols, esters, organic acids, carbonyl compounds, sugars and tannins
(Table 16). Except for extensive hydrolysis by pectolytic and cellulolytic enzymes, the composition of
fermented products, especially the flavour components, remained almost similar in the products obtained
by mechanical or mild enzymatic extraction process (Poll, 1993).
6.1.2. Acids
The acids are important in maintaining the pH low enough so as to inhibit the growth of many undesirable
bacteria. Like apple, must cider contains a variety of organic acids and their concentration depends on the
maturity and fermentation conditions (Beechand Carr, 1977; Labelle, 1980). Sweet cider could have less
than 0.45 gm acid. In dry ciders made by traditional method of fermentation, i.e. in which the apples are
not washed, have a high amount of volatile acidity (1 g/l) than the ciders made after washing and blending
of apples. In storage, the acetic acid is generally increased. In traditional method of fermentation, malic
acid in must is low (3-3.8 g/l) but in the must made by modern fermentation high concentration (4.8 g/l)
is observed because of acidic apples. The complete degradation of L-malic acid was carried out rapidly
by LAB in all the musts, except that made by modern methods of fermentation, where no MLF occurred.
acid metabolism. Higher alcohols are formed as by-products of both anabolic (Genevois pathway) and
catabolic metabolism (Ehrlich pathway) and allow the re-equilibrium of the redox balance involving
NAD+/NADH cofactors (Hammond, 1986). Therefore, they may appear via biosynthesis route using the
amino acid biosynthesis pathway of the yeast or by the deamination and decarboxylation of amino acids
present in the substrate. It is also known that higher fusel alcohols are generated from cloudy rather than
clear juice fermentation (Beech, 1993). Table 17 shows the amounts of certain higher alcohols present
before and after fermentation in different varieties of apple.
6.1.4. Tannins
Tannins enhance the sensory qualities of wines by affecting their astringency level, which vary in cider
from 50-100 mg/100 ml (Azad et al., 1987). Polyphenols play an important role in the cider quality as
they are related to the colour, bitterness and astringency, whose balance defines the overall mouthfeel of
the beverage (Guyot et al., 1998; Alonso-Salces et al., 2001; Lea and Drilleau, 2003; Alonso-Salces, et
al., 2004). They may be involved in providing the cider aroma, and as inhibitors of the microorganism
development, controlling the fermentation rates and avoiding some faults that can develop in cider from the
Cider: The Production Technology 599
Table 17. The Major Higher Alcohols in Apple Juices and Ciders
action of lactic acid bacteria, such as acidification, mannitol taint, ‘framboisé’, bitterness (Alonso-Salces
et al., 2004). Furthermore, the phenolic compounds participate in the formation of sediments during cider
storage due to their colloidal interaction with the proteins through the van der Waals forces (Siebert et al.,
1996; Kawamoto and Nakatsubo, 1997). They can also inhibit the pre-fermentative clarification enzymes
(Cowan, 1999). The cider-making steps mainly responsible for the extraction and content of the phenols
in the final product are maceration, pressing, enzymatic clarification of the must prior to fermentation,
centrifugation, filtration and fining. During the maceration and pressing time, intensive oxidation of the
polyphenols takes place, due to the activity of the polyphenoloxidase (PPO) and the subsequent coupled
oxidation reactions with other polyphenols. In addition, a large proportion of the procyanidins from the
fruits remain in the pomace after the pressing step because of their adsorption onto the cell-wall matrix
(Renard et al., 2001; Guyot et al., 2003). These lead to musts with lower phenolic content (Siebert et al.,
1996). It has been proved that must oxidation was higher when it was in contact with the apple pulp. The
enzymatic clarification, centrifugation, filtration and fining of the French ciders lead to partial elimination
of procyanidins due to their ability to precipitate proteins and to interact with cell wall polysaccharides
(Alonso-Salce et al., 2004).
The type of polyphenols or tannins found in the bittersweet English cider are listed in Table 18.
No significant change is seen in the content during fermentation although the chlorogenic, caffeic
and p-coumaryl acids may be reduced to dihydroshikimic acid and ethyl catechol (Jarvis, 1993). The
chlorogenic and caffeic acid in apple juice cultivars and ciders correlated very well with total phenols.
The chlorogenic acid constitutes 6.2-10.7 per cent of total phenols and the involvement of these acids is
responsible for non-enzymic auto-oxidative browning reaction (Cilliers et al., 1989; Cilliers et al., 1990).
flavour (green leaf-like flavour). As intermediates in the formation of ethanol and higher alcohols from
amino acids and sugars, the conditions favouring alcohols production also generate the formation of
small quantities of aldehydes. They are excreted and then, reduced to ethanol during the later stage
of fermentation. Diacetyl makes an important contribution to the flavour of cider and its presence is
considered essential for correct flavour.
Aldehyde is a by-product of alcoholic fermentation and its low amounts are considered responsible
for the flavour and taste of wine. The yeast strains affect the formation of flavour compounds in wine
(Jarvis et al., 1995). Diacetyl and acetaldehyde may also be produced if the process is inhibited by excess
sulphite and/or if controlled lactic fermentation occurs. Methanol is also produced in small quantities (10-
100 ppm) as a result of demethylation of pectin juice (Jarvis, 1993).
Table 19. Concentration of Major Esters in Apple Juices and Ciders of Different Varieties
employed than the apple varieties used to make cider. Cider with higher juice content was preferred to
that with lower juice content in various sensory quality characteristics (Joshi et al., 1991). The effect of
addition of insoluble solids, pectolytic enzyme and strains of wine yeast has been evaluated using various
descriptors (Joshi et al., 2013). Influence of cider-making technology on low boiling-point compounds
can be clearly seen in preparation of semi-sweet cider (Mangas et al., 1993; Mangas et al.,1993). A
comparison of the concentration of volatile compounds produced in cider made by batch and continuous
fermentation has also been made. The cider flavour is assessed using both by subjective and objective
approaches. In human beings, flavour sensation by taste is limited to sweetness, sourness, bitterness and
astringency together with such tastes as metallic and pungency (Piggott, 1988). Quantitative descriptive
analysis (QDA) has also been applied to cider to profile their flavour analytically (Williams, 1975). Out
of 86 descriptors used, 33 descriptors had greatest meaning to characterise the cider aroma and perry
essence. The development of a cider flavour wheel (Fig. 2) like that for wine and beer flavour profile is
employed in cider industry. In cider, bitterness and astringency are due to the polyphenols, especially
procyanidins which are polymers of catechins. The degree of polymerisation (DP) is the main factor
that influence the ratio between the two sensations: small procyanidins (up to DPn 4) are rather bitter
and higher (DPn 5-9) are rather astringent but both sensations are usually associated. There is often an
interaction with other constituents of the beverage: alcohol and polysaccharides reduce astringency, while
pH can increase it without changing the bitterness. Sugars are also known to reduce acidity and bitterness
(Quére et al., 2006).
At a simple level, a number of general descriptors can be used, such as fruity, acidity, sweetness,
astringency, alcohol, body, bitterness and sulphury, but at the analytical level, the number of descriptors
Figure 2. Cider flavour wheel (Source: National Association of Cider Maker, 1994)
602 Applied Aspects of Winemaking: Production of Wine
are kept large to differentiate the ciders of different types. Another approach which has been applied to
the flavour profiling is sniff analysis, where the effluent from GC is assessed by specially-trained judges.
Capillary gas chromatography (GC) on head-space samples of cider has been made to characterise the
aroma compounds (Fig. 3) (Jarvis et al., 1995). As many as 200 compounds reportedly contribute to the
flavour of ciders, but the key compounds are alcohols, acids, aldehydes, esters and sulphur compounds. The
spicy, aromatic and apple-like are the notes which differentiate the cider from other fermented beverages.
The colour of cider is determined by the extent of juice oxidation or degradation and, in fact, it is
possible to make water-white high tannin ciders if oxidation is completely inhibited (Lea and Timberlake,
1978; Lea, 1982). During fermentation, however, the initial colour diminishes by around 50 per cent. It is
presumably because of the strong reductive power of yeasts, which readily reduces the keto or carbonyl
groups to hydroxyls with consequent loss of the chromophore (exposure to sterile air after fermentation
will slowly re-generate the colour).
Traditional English and French ciders made from bittersweet fruit have been distinguished by
relatively high levels of bitterness and astringency caused by the procyanidins (tannins). The cultivars and
juice-processing condition (notably oxidation) also play a part in determining the final non-volatile flavour.
from a bottle. Properly sulphited juice with a low pH can correct the defect (Beech and Carr, 1977). A
much simpler approach would be to pasteurise the affected juice. However, the treated cider would need
blending before use. Another defect is referred to as mousiness (Tucknott and Williams, 1973). The exact
cause of this defect is not known but it occurs in unsulphited cider with a high pH that has necessarily
been exposed to air during fermentation. The growth of film-forming yeasts, such as Brettanomyces
spp., Pichia membranefaciens, Candida mycoderma also produce ‘mousy’ flavour (1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-
2-acetopyridine). Sacchromycodes ludwigii is often resistant to SO2 levels (1000-1500 ppm). These can
grow slowly during fermentation and maturation, resulting in production of butyric flavour and formation
of flaky particles, which spoil the appearance of cider. Contamination of final product with Saccharomyces
cerevisiae, S. bailli and S. uvarum increases the concentration of CO2.
Ciders low in acidity, tannin and nitrogen but high in mineral matter occasionally develop an olive
green colour; the fermentation ceases and starch is deposited. If iron in the ciders combines with tannins,
a black or greenish black colour develops. Bottled cider stored at high temperature sometimes produces
a sediment called casse. The action of peroxidase on tannins causes this defect, which can be prevented
by the addition of SO2 after fermentation.
The classical microbiological disorder of stored bulk ciders is known as ‘cider sickness’ or
‘Framboise’ in French (Beech and Carr, 1977; Carr, 1987) which is caused by the bacterium Zymomonas
anaerobia which ferments sugar in bulk sweet ciders stored at pH values greater than 3.7. The features of
cider sickness are a renewed and ‘almost explosive fermentation’ accompanied by a raspberry or banana-
peel aroma and a dense white turbidity in the beverage due to production of acetaldehyde at high levels
by Zymomonas. The acetaldehyde reacts with the ‘tannins’ to produce an insoluble aldehyde-phenol
complex and consequently, turbidity.
Flavour taints in ciders may arise from the presence of naphthalene and related hydrocarbons where
tarred rope had been stored adjacent to a cider keg. A new taint in ciders is caused by indole and is derived
from tryptophan breakdown (Wilkins, 1975) at levels in excess of 200 ppb where its odour becomes
increasingly faecal and unpleasant.
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23 Brandy Production: Fundamentals and
Recent Developments
Francisco López
Departament d’Enginyeria Química, Facultat d’Enologia, Universitat Rovira i Virgili Av.
1. Introduction
Brandy is a spirit obtained through the distillation of wine and generally contains 35-60 per cent v/v of
ethanol. If the name of the brandy is not associated with the type of raw material originating from this
spirit (fruit brandy, grain brandy, pomace brandy, etc.), it is understood that it is made exclusively from
grape wine. The origin of the word ‘brandy’ comes from the Dutch brandewijn, whose meaning is ‘wine
burned’. Some brandies are aged in wooden barrels, some are coloured with caramel to emulate the effect
of aging and/or homogenise the final product, and some brandies are produced using a combination of
aging and colouration (Amerine et al., 1989; Christoph and Bauer-Christoph, 2007).
Different types of brandy are made all over the world from wine. The best known are produced in
France under the appellation of Cognac and Armagnac. In other countries, different types of brandies are
made from wine, for example, brandy of Jerez and brandy of Penedès in Spain, Italian brandy produced
from regional wine grapes and distilled by column stills, although there are also a number of low-scale
producers, which employ pot stills. German brandy, which is called weinbrand (burnt wine), is made
usually from imported wine. The most known South American brandy is Pisco. In Peru, it is made mainly
from Muscat grapes. In Chile, it is made from different grape varieties and is distilled in pot stills. It
is obvious that, worldwide, there are various legal definitions according to the national traditions and
commercial interests (Tsakiris et al., 2014).
The use of the word ‘brandy’ to define a spirit obtained from distillation of wine leads to confusion,
since it is sometimes used as a generic of a product and sometimes to define a specific type of distillate.
European legislation distinguishes wine spirits and brandies (European Union 2008). Among the first are
Cognac and Armagnac. Table 1 shows the characteristics of these two types of spirit drinks.
E-mail: francisco.lopez@urv.cat
Brandy Production: Fundamentals and Recent Developments 609
In United States, brandies are defined according to the US Code of Federal Regulations, Title 27:
Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms PART 5, Sub-part C, Standards of Identity for Distilled Spirits, as class 4:
‘Brandy’ is an alcoholic distillate made from fermented juice, mash, or wine of fruit, or from the residue
thereof, produced at less than 190°C, in such a manner that the distillate possesses the taste, aroma and
characteristics generally attributed to the product, and bottled at not less than 80°C. Brandy, or mixtures
thereof, not conforming to any of the standards in paragraphs (d) (1) through (8) of this section shall be
designated as ‘brandy’, and such designation shall be immediately followed by a truthful and adequate
statement of composition. The fruit brandy, derived from grapes, shall be designated as ‘grape brandy’
or ‘brandy’, except that in the case of brandy (other than neutral brandy, pomace brandy, marc brandy
or grappa brandy) distilled from the fermented juice, mash, or wine of grapes, or the residue thereof,
which has been stored in oak containers for less than two years, the statement of class and type shall be
immediately preceded, in the same size and kind of type, by the word ‘immature’. Fruit brandy, other
than grape brandy, derived from one variety of fruit, shall be designated by the word ‘brandy’ qualified
by the name of such fruit (for example, ‘peach brandy’), except that ‘apple brandy’ may be designated
‘applejack’. Fruit brandy derived from more than one variety of fruit shall be designated as a ‘fruit
brandy’ qualified by a truthful and adequate statement of composition.
Figure 1. Brand values share of spirits worldwide in 2017, by spirit type (Statista, 2018)
Cognac, that is known and consumed globally. The production methods thus differ significantly (Bougas,
2014; Lambrecths et al., 2016).
However, in recent years the trend towards the consumption of artisanal distillates has increased and
the consequent growth in the number of distilleries, due to a greater perception of new consumers of these
artisanal products which are of a higher quality (Kohlmann, 2016).
Figure 2. Schema of traditional alembic (Charantais type) (Adapted from Bureau National Interprofessionel de
Cognac, http://www.cognac.fr/cognac/_fr/2_cognac/index.aspx?page=distillation)
In the total condenser, the vapours of the distillate are finally condensed and cooled to a low temperature
to collect finally the distillate.
The hat shape can affect the characteristics of the distillate, since the rectification produced will
depend on it surface to generate more or less reflux inside the equipment. Hats with a large surface area
will produce less aromatic distillates and contain fewer compounds with more body, such as the longer
chain fatty acids (Bougass et al., 2014). For example, the hats used in making cognacs are onion-shaped
and therefore small; so these products are more complex and aromatic. Another effect of the lower reflux
generated with small hats is that it minimises the re-concentration of water in the kettle, causing the
concentration of ethanol in the waste to be higher and, therefore, the recovery will be lower and the final
product will have a minor alcoholic strength.
The distillation time will also affect the characteristics of the distillate, since during boiling, it can
produce different reactions of formation or degradation of compounds (Cantagrel, 2003; Bougass et al.,
2014), such as equations 1.1-1.4.
Esterification/Hydrolysis: Acid + Alcohol ßà Ester + Water [1.1]
Acetal formation: Aldehyde + Alcohol ßà Acetal + Water [1.2]
Maillard’s reaction: Sugar + Amino acid à Pyrazine, Furans [1.3]
Strecker degradation: a-Amino acid à Aldehydes àAcetals [1.4]
The operation of batch distillation systems consists in the separation of a first fraction, called ‘heads’,
in which negative volatile compounds, such as ethyl acetate and acetaldehyde, are concentrated. So this
fraction is rejected. Next, a second fraction, called ‘heart’, is collected in which most of the positive
compounds in the distillate are concentrated. Finally, a third fraction, called ‘tails’, is collected, in which
a significant amount of alcohol remains, as well as less compounds, which in general are organoleptically
negative in the final distillation. This fraction and the head fraction are usually reintroduced in subsequent
distillations in order to recover the maximum possible ethanol. The residue left in the kettle is rejected.
With this discontinuous system, the distillate obtained has a variable alcoholic strength between
the beginning and the end that favours the complexity of the final distillate, as previously mentioned.
This discontinuous system is applied to beverages, such as cognac and Peruvian Pisco, using different
strategies.
612 Applied Aspects of Winemaking: Production of Wine
The other classic alternative is the column distillation, operating discontinuous or continuous, as in
the case of Armagnac. Figure 3 presents a scheme of this distillation system.
The distillation strategy operating in discontinuous is similar to the traditional alembic, separating
the three distillation fractions (head, heart and tail). In the column top can be placed a partial condenser
or dephlegmator to generate the reflux necessary to operate the column, which can also be external.
In this case, the reflux generated is reintroduced through the upper part of the column. According to
this distillation system, beverages, such as Armagnac and Chilean Pisco, are obtained with some design
modifications and/or distillation strategies.
Figure 3. Batch column distillation (Adapted from Bureau National Interprofessionel de l’Armagnac,
http://www.armagnac.fr/distillation-et-vieillissement)
In other areas, brandies are distilled in continuous still by means of distillation columns (Fig. 4). In
this case, columns usually have the distillate output before the upper part, since the last trays are used to
concentrate the more volatile compounds, such as acetaldehyde, ethyl acetate and others, corresponding
to the head fraction in discontinuous distillation. At the bottom of the column, the residue is extracted,
in which the water would be concentrated with the less volatile compounds. In this column, lateral
extractions could be carried out, in which the concentration of higher alcohols is higher, so that their
presence in the final distillate can be minimised. This, however, has the disadvantage that the quantity of
first quality brandy obtained is reduced; in addition, this practice complicates the operation of the column
(Guymon, 1974).
These distillation columns usually have a large number of trays with the goal of producing distillates
at 95-96 per cent v/v, when only three or four trays are required to obtain distillates of 85 per cent v/v.
It is also possible to concentrate other undesired compounds, which are eliminated at the top of the
column, while the distillate is extracted in two or three trays below. In general, 60-70 per cent of the trays
are located above the feed tray, while the rest are below. The source of heat is usually by open steam,
although some brandy producers use indirect heating, such as reboilers (Guymon, 1974).
Another alternative is the employment of split column units as shown in Fig. 5, or systems with three
or four columns (Fig. 6) in which one of them concentrates the heads (aldehydes) up to 20 times and the
ethanol, devoid of aldehydes and other components of low point of boiling, is recycled to the main unit
(Bertrand, 2003).
Brandy Production: Fundamentals and Recent Developments 613
of the column so that it is rectified as it rises through it. The vapour, once outside the column, condenses
in the condenser, using the wine that is continuously fed as a cooling fluid, which in turn warms up before
entering the column. Operating in this way, the energy consumption in the boiler is reduced. The obtained
distillate has an alcoholic strength of 50-54 per cent v/v. At the same time, exhausted wine (wine residue)
must be extracted from the bottom intermittently to operate in a semi-continuous manner (Fig. 7).
Figure 7. Armagnac column distillation operating in continuous (Adapted from Bureau National Interprofessionel
de l’Armagnac, http://www.armagnac.fr/distillation-et-vieillissement)
On the other hand, with similar equipment in the elaboration of Chilean Pisco (Fig. 8), the distillation
is usually performed discontinuously, working in devices with larger boilers, in which the wine is loaded
and distilled in a discontinuous manner, separating the head, heart and tail fractions. With this strategy,
the product obtained is a mixture of distillate in a range of concentrations in ethanol from 70-40 per cent
v/v, being therefore, the characteristic of the final product more complex aromatically than Armagnac.
Figure 9. Composition of oak heartwood, where the percentages indicate the percentage of wood mass
made up by the constituent (Adapted from Hornsey, 2016; Mosedale and Puech, 2003)
aroma of cognacs and other alcoholic beverages aged in oak, as it is found in large concentrations after
toasting. The sweetness of the brandies is attributed to glycerol, xylose, arabinose and glucose extracted
from wood. Other typical aromas due to the aging of brandies in oak are the oak lactones, since at very
low concentrations they contribute aromas of coconut – an aroma associated with alcoholic beverages
aged in oak. Semi-volatile and non-volatile compounds of wood change the colour of the distillate and
contribute to an up-rounded flavour. The wooden barrels that are permeable allow air to pass in and cause
ethanol to evaporate; thus, the ethanol content decreases and the aroma gets more intense, complex and
concentrated. It has been proved that a decrease in the oxygen transfer rate is governed mainly by the
advance of the moisture front in the wood (wood impregnation), in contrast to the hypothesis which
attributes it to the oxygen consumption by the soluble ellagitannins of the wood (del Alamo-Sanza and
Nevares, 2017). In addition, harsher aroma constituents are removed and the spirit changes to mellow.
The period of maturation depends on the size of the casks used, the alcoholic strength, as well as the
temperature and humidity in the warehouse, which leads to a smoother flavour (Christoph and Bauer-
Christoph, 2007). Another factor to consider is the aging temperature, since it affects the aging rate as
well as a faster loss of ethanol by evaporation.
Globally, the aging process is characterised by changes in flavour, aroma and colour of the brandies,
as well as a decrease in the amount of product and the alcoholic strength. The aging time in oak barrels
varies according to the country (Louw and Lambrechts, 2012). The European regulations fix that brandies
must be aged for at least six months in oak barrels, while in United States brandies must be labelled with
the word ‘immature’ if the period of aging is less than two years and in South Africa, the minimum time
is three years.
Regarding the aging time, it will obviously affect the amount of compounds extracted from the wood,
as well as the reactions that occur. Therefore, longer aging time means higher compounds extraction.
According to Bertrand (2003), a barrel can yield substances to the cognac for about 40 years though
several stages in aging may be distinguished:
• By 1.5-5 years, the main process is dissolution of substances in the wood.
• By 5-10 years, astringency decreases and the brandy becomes rounder.
• By 10-35 years, a rancid taste appears.
• After 40 years, one should no longer keep brandies out of the barrel.
618 Applied Aspects of Winemaking: Production of Wine
Caldeira et al. (2016) studied the kinetics of the odourant compounds of a wine brandy during two years
of ageing in two ageing systems on an industrial scale. The odourant compounds in the analysed brandies
changed significantly over the time, but with different evolution patterns. With regards to the odourant
compounds proceeding from the distillate, namely alcohols (isobutanol, 2+3-methyl-1-butanol,trans-2-
hexen-1-ol, linalool, 2-phenylethanol) and acids (butanoic, isovaleric, hexanoic and dodecanoic acid) the
tendency was to decrease over two years of ageing. Regarding the esters, also derived from the distillate,
an inverse tendency for two esters was noticed (diethyl malate and ethyl octanoate), which increased over
the time, while the other four esters (isobutyl acetate, ethyl butyrate, isoamyl acetate and ethyl hexanoate)
were not affected by the ageing time. The kinetics of the majority of wood-related odourant compounds
(acetic acid, furanic aldehydes, volatile phenols, vanillin, acetovanillone and cis, trans-b-methyl-c-
octalactone) followed a hyperbolic pattern with a major increment at the beginning of the ageing period,
along with the diffusion of the compounds from the wood into brandies. However, for some of the wood–
related compounds, such as vanillin, acetovanillone, guaiacol, eugenol, 4-methylguaiacol and trans-b-
methyl-c-octalactone, the initial hyperbolic increase was followed by a linear enrichment, suggesting
their formation during ageing.
Cernîsev (2017), in his study, performed on 24 wine distillates with ageing time from one to 50
years and containing 69.1-43.4 per cent v/v alcohol observed that concentration of unsaturated aromatic
compounds (sinapaldehyde, coniferaldehyde) decreases with increasing maturing time of the distillates
(Fig. 10), probably due to their oxidation during long maturation, while the concentration of other
substances, such as syringaldehyde, vanillin, syringic and vanillic acids, increases. It is also interesting to
note that ratio syringaldehyde/vanillin lies between 1.80 and 2.21 almost for all distillates. The fact that
the ratio of syringaldehyde/vanillin is constant (2.0 ± 0.2) for most of aged distillates indicates a possible
correlation between the transformations of these aldehydes.
The use of oakwood fragments, as an alternative to the traditional barrels, is a rapid and economical
method of ageing treatment. Nowadays, there is no legislation applied to the ageing of spirits in
contact with oakwood fragments, and as a result, research on the accelerated ageing of distillates is
scarce (van Jaarsveld and Hattingh, 2012; Rodriguez-Solana et al., 2017). Schwarz et al. (2014) carried
out accelerated aging on a laboratory scale of Brandy de Jerez, employing oak chips and ultrasound
as extraction method and achieved in one-month sensorial characteristics and acceptability which are
similar to those of brandies whose average aging time was between six and 18 months.
Delgado-González et al. (2017) developed an accelerated aging process consisting of circulation
of the distillate through packed oak chips and the application of ultrasound. The best conditions were
obtained with wine distillate of 65 per cent (v/v), operating at room temperature (25ºC) and equivalent
doses of 5 g/L oak chips, using longer than fragmented ultrasound pulses, since the brandy presents
Figure 10. Mean concentrations of ageing markers in wine distillates from different age groups
(Adapted from Cernîsev, 2017)
Brandy Production: Fundamentals and Recent Developments 619
higher intensity of colour, TPI and extraction of furfuraldehyde, syringic acid, vanillin, syringaldehyde
and aromatic intensities and visual impressions. On the other hand, the aeration is positive, since the
TPI and the extraction of tartaric acid, syringaldehyde and syringic acid increases. The sensory analysis
showed that the distillates aged by five distillates of different grape varieties used in the Jerez area allow
brandies with characteristics of spirits aged by traditional methods in only three days.
Nevertheless, Rodriguez-Solana et al. (2017) for a pomace brandy conclude that in general, high
toast-oak fragments provide greater colour intensity in the accelerated aged spirits but reduce the
antioxidant capacity of the corresponding beverage. The best results are obtained with smaller fragment
size (granular) from Quercus petraea with medium toast level. The contact time did not significantly
influence the parameters evaluated. Caldeira et al. (2017) compared the influence of brandy aging in
650-L wooden barrels and in 3000-L stainless steel tanks. Both had Limousin oak (Quercus robur) and
Portuguese chestnut staves (Castaneas ativa). The brandy samples were profiled by descriptive sensory
analysis during the ageing period. The brandies aged in stainless steel tanks with staves presented higher
intensity of attributes, such as topaz, coffee, caramel and unctuous and lower intensity of golden, woody
and green attributes, and higher overall quality than the same wine distillate aged in wooden barrels.
Regardless of these differences, it is not possible to clearly distinguish the brandy samples proceeding
from different ageing systems by multidimensional analysis (MDS) of data. This effect seems to
contain the influence of a cooperage heating process, which imparts a different volatile wood
composition to the staves and wood barrels. Consequently, the brandies produced in wooden barrels are
associated with higher amounts of acetic acid, 5-methylfurfural, eugenol, acetic acid, cis-b-methyl-c-
octalactone and HMF, while brandies from stainless steel tanks with staves are linked to higher amounts
of volatile phenols (4-methylsyringol, syringol, guaiacol, 4-methylguaiacol) and acetovanillone (Caldeira
et al., 2016).
Zang et al. (2013a) studied the effects of applying an electric field (EF) treatment with 1 kV/cm
(50 Hz) on brandy stored in 5-L and 2-L oak barrels, respectively, for over 14 months to simulate the
natural aging process and it was compared with brandy sample naturally aged in 225-L oak barrels.
Results demonstrated that the content of phenol compounds in brandy, such as tannins, total phenols as
well as volatile phenols, significantly increased after treatment by EF, with tannin concentration of the
brandy treated with EF being 54.4 per cent and 43.9 per cent higher than those of the control brandy after
14 months of maturation in 5-L and 2-L barrels, respectively. It was also demonstrated that the EF-treated
samples in 5-L barrels for seven months and in 2-L barrels for five months exceeded the content of tannins
of those naturally aged for 12 months in 225-L oak barrels used in the brandy industry. The kinetic model
of oak phenol compounds extracted by brandy demonstrated that EF treatment played a positive role in
accelerating the extraction of phenol compounds and its effect was more significant than the size of the
barrel. Zang et al. (2013b) demonstrated that the application of an EF, the ester concentration, in the
brandy was higher than in the untreated samples. On the other hand, the concentration of some unpleasant
compounds apparently decreased; thus, the aroma of the brandy improved.
4.1. France
According to European regulations (European Union, 2008) in France, the geographical indications of
Cognac and Armagnac are recognised in the category of wine spirits, and the brandy Français in the
category of brandies. Cognac and Armagnac are made from wines from a limited geographical area and
are not characterised by a single specific flavour, but their quality depends on factors, such as the grape
varieties as well as the distillation system, aging and blending (Christoph and Bauer-Christoph, 2007).
620 Applied Aspects of Winemaking: Production of Wine
Cognac is produced in the region of Cognac (France), located north of Bordeaux. In 1909, the
French government established by means of a law that Cognac can be denominated only in a well-defined
zone that surrounds the city of Cognac. The Cognac production area is divided into six zones: Grande
Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois and Bois à Terroirs.
The grape varieties used are Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Folle Blanche, which have a minimum of
90 per cent of the wine destined for distillation. Although other varieties, such as Semillon, Folignan,
Juraçon Blanc, Montils, Sélect and Meslier St-François are authorised but with a proportion of less than
10 per cent in the production of the wine destined for distillation.
The grape harvest takes place in the second half of October and is pressed in horizontal presses
(continuous presses are prohibited), with the use of sulphur dioxide. The distillation of wine is with lees
and chaptalisation is not allowed. The alcoholic strength is generally relatively low (8-10 per cent v/v).
The wines are too acidic for direct consumption at pH 3 or even less. This acidity makes it possible to
some extent to compensate for the absence of sulphur dioxide. However, according to regulations, the
wines must be distilled before the end of March (Bertrand, 2003; Owens and Dikty, 2009).
Distillation is usually done with a copper Charantais traditional alembic (Fig. 1) and the procedure
used is double distillation (Fig. 11). The volume of the boiler is 30 hL maximum. The first distillation
is called ‘chauffe du brouillis’ and the second distillation ‘bonne chauffe’. The distillation strategy
is described in Section 1.3.2. Usually the second distillation is performed at a lower temperature for
obtaining better rectification of the spirit.
There are also variants of these two methods. Varying the intensity of heating is important according
to the alcoholic strength of brouillis required. Slow distillation gives good rectification. An odourous, fine
brandy is obtained but with dryness that may be detected on tasting due to the lack of certain products of
tail distillation (e.g. ethyl lactate, diethyl succinate). In contrast, fast heating involves the formation of a
marrowy brandy with little bouquet. Excessive heating results in a heavy taste (Bertrand, 2003).
The cognac is aged in oak barrels (200-600 L) from the forests of Tronçais, Allier, Limousin and the
Vosges in France. During aging, there is a loss of volume (around 3 per cent on an average per year) and
a 1 per cent v/v reduction in the alcoholic strength. During conservation, there is little evolution of the
volatile substances. The alcohol concentrate, the esters, are slightly hydrolysed and the unsaturated fatty
acids oxidise, giving a rancid taste. The Cognac ages by slow oxidation in barrels. In bottles, there is no
further evolution (Bertrand, 2003).
During aging, once a year, the cognac is racked and all the barrels of the same production are mixed
together. The alcoholic strength is gradually diminished by adding demineralised water to finally obtain
an alcoholic strength of 40.0 per cent (v/v) in commercialised bottles (never less). During aging, it is
Brandy Production: Fundamentals and Recent Developments 621
common to mix spirits of different origins, quality and age in order to obtain the same odour and taste for
a given brand name.
Accordingly the ageing period can be defined for different Cognac categories, as:
• Very special (V.S.) or three stars (***) where the youngest brandy is at least two years old
• Very Superior Old Pale (V.S.O.P) or Réserve where the youngest brandy is at least four years old
• Napoléon, X.O or Hors d’âge where the youngest brandy is at least six years old.
The colour can be adjusted with the addition of caramel. The taste can be adjusted with the addition
of woody water extract obtained from small pieces of oakwood to give more body to the spirit, more
astringency and a little bitterness. On the other hand, excessive hardness can be diminished by adding
sucrose syrup, generally less than 8 g/L. Generally, all these procedures should be carried out at least two
or three months before bottling.
Armagnac is produced in the region of Gascoigne (France), located east of Bordeaux. The Armagnac
production area is divided into three zones: Haute Armagnac, Bas Armagnac and Tenareze. The main
grape varieties used are Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Folle Blanche and Baco 22 (Owens and Dikty, 2009).
The distillation system used is described in Section 1.3.2 (Fig. 6). The wines to be distilled can be made
from musts obtained with continuous press and distilled with their lees. It is forbidden to add sulphur
dioxide. Wines are required to be distilled between the end of the harvest and 31 March of the following
year. According to the regulation, the maximum and minimum alcoholic strength allowed are 72 per cent
(v/v) and 52 per cent (v/v), respectively.
The distillation by means of stills with columns allows regulation of the alcoholic strength of the
distillate varying in wine flow and heating power. Therefore, lowering the heating or increasing the wine
flow brings down the temperature at the head of the column and results in a higher alcoholic strength.
In this case, higher alcohol and ester concentrations remain constant; on the other hand, the amount of
substances called tailings, of which there is usually a surplus in Armagnac, decreases exponentially when
the percentage of alcohol increases. For prolonged aging, a large quantity of tailings is an advantage
because of the ‘winey’ character of their molecules; but if the Armagnac is to be marketed soon, it is
preferable to make a high-proof distillate to limit the amount of such substances (Bertrand, 2003).
Armagnac is aged in oak casks and the coarse-grained wood is preferred (Gascony or Limousin)
to fine-grained wood, as it is slightly more permeable to oxygen and yields more tannin. Although
there are a variety of aging methods, spirits are usually kept in new casks for six months to one year
before being transferred to old casks. Armagnac contains vanillin, syringaldehyde, coniferaldehyde and
sinapaldehyde, but only vanillin is detectable on tasting. Prior to being marketed, several wine spirits
are blended and the alcoholic strength of the blend is reduced to a minimum of 40 per cent (v/v) with
distilled water. The naturally golden-yellow colour can be enhanced with caramel. Sometimes, infusions
or decoctions made from oak shavings are added to make the Armagnac more astringent and to give it
more body; however, these preparations must be at least of the same age as the youngest spirit used for
the commercial designation of the final product. Sugar solutions are sometimes added to attenuate the
‘burn’ of the alcohol (about 6 g/L).
Finally, before being bottled, the spirits are cold processed (usually one week at 5ºC) and passed
through a cellulose filter to eliminate any possible cloudiness due to excess of calcium or fatty acids.
Armagnac comprises several hundreds of substances, but the main features of old Armagnac are its
aroma of prunes, its rancid taste, its complexity; it is vigorous and even rough, with a long-lasting palate.
The blend of Armagnacs from different years of aging is authorised to obtain a more homogeneous
product in quality, but the age of the blend is that of the youngest Armagnac. The Bureau National
Interprofessionnel de l’Armagnac (BNIA) has harmonised the Armagnac since 2010 into four categories:
• Three Stars (***) or Very Special (V.S.) where the youngest brandy is at least one year old
• Very Superior Old Pale (V.S.O.P) or Réserve, where the youngest brandy is at least four years old
Napoléon or Extra Old (X.O.) where the youngest brandy is at least six years old
• Hors d’Âge, where the youngest brandy is at least 10 years old
Lastly, the Millésimes (Vintage), 10 years of minimum of ageing in wood, specific to Armagnac,
corresponds solely to the year of harvest declared on the label.
622 Applied Aspects of Winemaking: Production of Wine
It has been found (Bertrand, 2003) that there are about four times less ethyl esters of fatty acids
with 8, 10 and 12 carbon atoms in Armagnac than in Cognac. Some brandies contain noticeably lower
quantities of esters than others. This can be attributed to the utilisation of wine distillate, resulting in
poorer distillates containing volatile substances (Tsakiris et al., 2014). Cognac can then be differentiated
from Armagnac because this spirit contains highest contents of furan derivatives, such as furfural,
5-methylfurfural, furfuryl ethyl ether, and 2-acetylfuran due to the effect of double distillation (Ledauphin
et al., 2010).
4.2. Spain
In Spain, there are two brandies with geographical indication in accordance with the European regulation
of spirits (European Union, 2008): Sherry brandies (Brandy de Jerez) and Penedès brandy (Brandy del
Penedès).
Sherry brandy is produced in the area between the municipalities of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar
de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santamaría, located in the province of Cádiz (Spain). The regulation on
the preparation of these brandies (RDE Brandy de Jerez, 2005) allows the use of wine alcohol without
specifying its origin; however, most of the alcohol used in its preparation is distilled in the region of La
Mancha, located in the centre of Spain, using wines from the Airén variety.
The traditional distillation system is by means of alquitaras, a system similar to the charantais
alembic, in which distillates obtained are denominated holandas with a graduation between 40-70 per cent
(v/v) and content in volatile substances of 200-600 g/hL p.a. This distillation system is used to elaborate
the highest quality Sherry brandies. It is also used in more modern and efficient distillation columns in
which the wine is fed continuously. There are two types of columns – the so-called low-grade ones in
which spirits are obtained between 70-86 per cent (v/v) and a content in volatile substances between
130-400 g/hL p.a., and the high-grade ones in which the distillates are with a graduation between 86-94.8
per cent (v/v) and a content of volatile substances less than 50 g/hL p.a. In traditional distillation with
alquitara, the holandas are obtained in a single distillation unlike the Cognac, since the wines distilled
have a greater alcoholic strength, conserving better the characteristics of the wines.
According to its specific regulation, sherry brandy is matured through the traditional criaderas
and soleras system (Fig. 12), during which the spirit extracts its principal components from the interior
surface of the oak casks, although the vintage system is also used. The barrels used for aging usually are
of American oak (Quercus alba) with a capacity less than 1000 L, which have previously been used in
the production of Sherry wines.
Figure 12. Sherry brandy traditional aging system of criaderas and soleras
Brandy Production: Fundamentals and Recent Developments 623
According to the characteristics of the spirits and distillates of wine, and the process of elaboration
and aging, three types of ‘Brandy de Jerez’ are distinguished: Solera, Solera Reserva and Solera Gran
Reserva. Table 2 indicates the main characteristics of ‘Brandy de Jerez’.
Brandy de Jerez type Aging system Aging time Barrel size Volatile substances
(L) (g/hL p.a.)
Solera criaderas and solera > 6 mon 1000 150
Solera Reserva criaderas and solera > 1 yr 1000 200
Solera Gran Reserva criaderas and solera > 3 yr 1000 250
The Solera sherry brandy is the youngest and fruity, with an average aging of one year, while the
Reserva usually has an average aging time of three years and finally the brandy Gran Reserva has an
average of 10 years. However, in practice, the best reserves and large reserves are aged 12-15 years. With
this procedure, it is possible to maintain the characteristics (flavour, aroma and colour), identical quality
and peculiarities of each brand. It is usually aged at a graduation between 50-60 per cent (v/v), that allows
the processes of maturation or extraction of characteristics of the wood to be more intense. In prolonged
aging, the graduation is reduced to a certain extent, mainly due to the evaporation that in Jerez is intense
– 7 per cent annually, due to its climate.
The taste of sherry brandies is sweet of ripe fruit, not only due to aging, but also due to the elaboration
process that authorises the addition of different substances, called Cabeceo, in which small amounts
of extracts and fruit macerations are used. According to the legislation, they can also use concentrates
of grapes and plums, oak essences, almond pericarp, vanilla pods and green walnuts and can be also
sweetened with natural sugars and caramel to adjust the colour. The alcohol content must be between 36-
45 per cent (v/v), although the usual commercial value is 38 per cent v/v and the highest quality products
are 39 per cent (v/v).
Penedès brandies are made in Catalonia, in the northeast of Spain, near Barcelona. The grape varieties
used are usually Macabeo and Parellada, as well as the Ugni Blanc variety used in the elaboration of
Cognac. Penedès brandy production is currently limited to two producers (Owens and Dikty, 2009). In
accordance with Penedès brandy regulation (Reglament IGP Brandy del Penedès, 2017), they can be
obtained by continuous (tray column) or discontinuous distillation (double distillation as in Cognac). The
spirits suitable for the production of ‘Brandy del Penedès’, obtained by distilling wines, must preserve the
organoleptic characteristics and volatile components of the raw material.
The types of distillates obtained are wine ‘holandas’ with alcohol content less than 70 per cent (v/v),
wine spirits with an alcohol content between 70-86 per cent (v/v) and wine distillates wines with an
alcohol content between 86-94.8 per cent v/v. In the final product, the sum of holandas and wine spirits
must represent more than 50 per cent alcoholic strength. In the case of double distillation, the maximum
degree of the second distillation will be 70 per cent (v/v).
Aging is performed both in static and dynamic systems in the area of Protected Geographical
Indication Brandy del Penedès. After distillation, the holandas are introduced in oak containers for aging
for a minimum of six months. In the case of dynamic aging, the process can be started in containers of
more than 1000 L, but it must be finished in barrels less than 500 L. For static aging, it must be in barrels
of less than 500 L.
For dynamic aging, there are the same categories as for Jerez brandies: Solera, Solera Reserva and
Solera Gran Reserva; for static aging or vintages, they are distinguished: a) ‘Reserva’, when aging is
higher than one year, b) ‘Gran Reserva’, when aging is greater than three years and c) ‘Extra Or’, when
aging is greater than five years with a minimum alcoholic strength of 40 per cent (v/v). ‘Extra Or’ category
must be elaborated by double distillation with a final product lower than 65 per cent (v/v).
The Penedès brandies must have a graduation higher than 36 per cent (v/v) and a low sugar content
(less than 20 g/L), being a dry product. The colour varies from amber to topaz; aromatically they are
intense with traces of nuts and notes of species, such as cinnamon, vanilla and nutmeg. The oak manifests
itself in the mouth with caramel and roasted notes.
624 Applied Aspects of Winemaking: Production of Wine
4.4. America
In the United States, the production of grape brandy was confined to California due to the tradition
of the old Spanish missions. At present, after the vicissitudes due to phylloxera, the dry law, after the
Second World War in California, the so-called California-style was developed under the influence of the
University of California at Davis (Owens and Dikty, 2009; Amerine et al., 1989). The brandies made
in this style are clean on the palate, light and with aromas that make them suitable for consumption.
Brandies are made by distillation columns from table grapes. The most commonly used varieties of
grapes are the Thompson seedless and the Flame Tokay, although grapes with little varietal character
are currently used, such as Chenin blanc, Folle blanche, French Colombard and Palomino (Owens and
Dikty, 2009). The California brandies use the grape variety which is of lesser importance than clean low-
temperature fermentations; also use fresh wine of immature grapes, good distillation practice and proper
aging (Amerine et al., 1989). These brandies are aged from two to 12 years in used American oak barrels.
Some producers use the aging method of sherry brandy. The more expensive brandies usually contain a
certain percentage of very aged brandies distilled in alembic.
In Latin America, in countries like Mexico, elaborated wine is used practically to obtain brandy. The
distillation methods include both traditional alembics and distillation columns. The grape varieties most
used are Thompson Seedless, Palomino and Ugni Blanc. The method of aging most used is that of soleras.
Brandy is also distilled from grapes in Chile and Peru to make a drink called Pisco. The most
commonly used grape variety is muscatel in both countries and the distillation procedures are traditional
alembic mainly in Peru and still with column in Chile. While in Peru the product does not age, in Chile
the trend is also to make Pisco age in oak barrels. Pisco is a very aromatic drink with a remarkable
presence of terpenic aromas.
According to Chilean legislation, Pisco is defined as a brandy produced and bottled in units of
consumption in the Atacama and Coquimbo regions through the distillation of genuine wine, from
Vitis vinifera varieties specified by law and planted in these regions (Bordeu et al., 2012). The Pisco
is a non-aged or slightly aged brandy. The distillation is mainly done by using batch column alembics,
separating head, heart and tail fractions. The average alcoholic strength of heart fractions is around 60
per cent (v/v). After the maturation or aging, Pisco is adjusted to the final consumption alcohol content
(35-50 per cent v/v), clarified and bottled. The product ranges from completely colourless to light amber
and is characterised by fruit Muscat aromas combined in different degrees with aromas coming from
aging and oak.
The commercial categories are:
• Artisanal Pisco, produced by small distillers with wines elaborated with skin contact during
winemaking. The distillate is more complex and needs some maturation or aging.
• White Pisco is young, distillates with less than six months aging, in general with no contact with
wood, frequently come from single varietal wines and can be triple distilled.
Brandy Production: Fundamentals and Recent Developments 625
• Mature Pisco, aged between six and 12 months, usually comes from a mixture of grape varieties.
Aromatically it is a mixture of fruity aromas and wooden notes.
• Aged Pisco, aged around one year, comes in young American oak barrels and aromatically have an
important contribution of wood-derived aromas combined with fruity aromas. It is elaborated from
multi-varietal wines and have an amber colour.
In general, Chilean Pisco is characterised by Muscat aroma, like geraniol, linalool, raisin and honey.
Even if Pisco is not aged for long periods in wood, descriptors like vanilla, oak and toasted are important
in describing products with some aging (Bordeu et al., 2004).
Peruvian Pisco is a grape brandy distilled from must of fresh grape in alembics, which do not rectify
the final product. Thus, it is transparent, slightly yellowish with an alcohol content of about 42 per cent
v/v. According to the Peruvian legislation (Indecopi, 2006), Pisco is the product obtained exclusively by
distillation of fresh musts of freshly fermented Pisco grapes, using methods that maintain the principles
of quality. It is produced on the coast of the specified departments. The Pisco varieties can be aromatics
(Italy, Muscat, Albilla and Torontel) or non-aromatics (Quebranta, Negracriolla, Mollar and Uvina). The
distillation system could be a traditional alembic called ‘falca’ and the Charantais alembic with and
without wine pre-heater. Rectification is not authorised and the addition of water is not allowed to adjust
the alcohol content of the final product. Pisco must mature for three months in containers that do not give
aromas or flavour. The different types of Pisco recognised are:
• Pure Pisco (Pisco puro), obtained from a single grape variety
• Pisco green must (Pisco mosto verde), obtained from the distillation of fresh musts with incomplete
fermentation
• Pisco acholado, which is obtained from the mixture of aromatic and non-aromatic grapes, musts,
wines or Piscos
The main aromatic descriptors associated with Peruvian Pisco for the Quebranta variety are fresh
fruit, dried fruit, citrus, chocolate, herbaceous, syrup, alcohol, chemical, acetic and empyreumatic; for the
variety Italia. they are the same in addition to aromatic grass, floral and sulphurous (Cacho et al., 2012).
5.1. Alcohols
Alcohols possessing more than two carbon atoms are known as higher alcohols or fusel alcohols and are
by-products of yeast fermentation during the elaboration of base wine and form an important part of the
volatile composition of brandy (Louw and Lambrechts, 2012), being quantitatively the largest group of
volatile flavour compounds. Table 3 summarises the odour quality, odour threshold value in water and/
or ethanol solution, and concentration range of single volatile compounds in distilled spirits produced
during alcoholic fermentation from carbohydrates by yeasts and other microorganisms.
The term ‘fusel alcohols’ refers to their malty and burnt flavour, with the exception of 2-phenethyl
alcohol, which has a rose-like odour. The higher alcohol content remains almost unaffected before
distillation. The most important alcohols are 1-propanol, 2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-methylbutanol,
3-methylbutanol, and the aromatic alcohol 2-phenylethanol. Most straight-chain alcohols and their esters
have a strong pungent smell. At high concentration levels, higher alcohols are characterised by pungent
odours, which mask the aromatic finesse. They reach concentration in the order of 2.5-5.0 g/Lp.a and
their recovery is about 90 per cent with the exception of 2-phenyl-ethanol which is recovered 10 per
Brandy Production: Fundamentals and Recent Developments 627
Table 3. Odor Quality, Odour Threshold Value in Water and/or Ethanol Solution and Concentration
Range of Main Alcohols in Distilled Spirits
cent (Christoph and Bauer-Christoph, 2007; Tsakiris et al., 2014). At lower concentration levels, higher
alcohols may add complexity to brandy due to synergistic interactions with other compounds. In addition,
higher alcohols may be esterified during the aging process, resulting in esters that impart more pleasant
aromas (Louw and Lambrechts, 2012).
Methanol, 1-butanol and 2-butanol are not compounds of alcoholic fermentation and their threshold
values are rather high (668, 820 and 1000 mg/L p.a., respectively) and therefore, they do not contribute
significantly to the flavour (Christoph and Bauer-Christoph, 2007). Methanol is always present in
very small quantities of 40-60 mg/L in wine. However, in distillates and brandy, it is found in higher
concentrations of 0.30–0.70 g/L p.a. with a recovery of 90 per cent. Its taste is similar to ethanol and it
does not affect the organoleptic quality of the spirits. However, it affects the safety of brandy because its
toxicity is well known. European Union legislation requires a limit lower than 2.0 g L−1 of pure alcohol.
Methanol is reduced during ageing in barrels (Tsakiris et al., 2014); 2-Butanol levels higher than 0.5 g/L
p.a. indicate a bacterial spoilage of raw materials or mash (Christoph and Bauer-Christoph, 2007).
The herbaceous odour of brandies is due to grape-derived carbonyl compounds with six carbon
atoms. Unripe grapes and continuous presses may induce herbaceous tastes by liberating compounds,
such as hexanols (hexanol-1 and hexanol-2) and hexenols (cis-3-hexene-1-ol, trans-2-hexen-1-ol, cis-2-
hexen-1-ol). 1-Octen-3-ol is characterised by a mushroom odour and is produced in grapes infected by
Botrytis cinerea (Tsakiris et al., 2014).
5.2. Terpenes
The Muscat flavor is produced by terpenes. The chemical compounds responsible for this specific aroma
are mainly geraniol, nerol, α-terpineol, linalool and ß-citronellol. These monoterpenes are part of a large
family of molecules obtained by association of isoprene units. The total free terpene concentration varies
between 0.6-1.5 mg/L, depending on the grape variety and cultural parameters, with important variations
in the respective proportions of terpenes. The olfactory perception thresholds of these compounds are
rather low (a few hundred micrograms per litre). In Muscat wines, terpenes are found either free or bound
to sugars as glycosides; the latter are also called aroma precursors, as they are unable to express their
aromatic character. The sensorial characteristics are described as rose flower (geraniol, nerol), rosewood
(linalool) and geranium flower (geraniol, citronellol, terpineol) (Tsakiris et al., 2014; Colonna-Ceccaldi,
2010).
in distilled spirits, since higher levels may contribute to a typical vinegar-like off-flavor (Christoph and
Bauer-Christoph, 2007).
In wine, it is found in concentrations ranging between 300-700 mg/L, while in distillates the
concentration ranges from 0.20-1.0 g/L p.a. Recovery is as low as 2-5 per cent due to the removal of the
distillation ‘heads’. However, distillates produced by continuous distillation may contain higher amounts
of acetic acid due to the absence of the removal of the distillation heads. During wine maturation in
barrels, a small quantity of acetic acid can be produced from ethanol oxidation or it can be extracted from
wood hemicelluloses (Tsakiris et al., 2014).
Other carboxylic acids, such as propionic acid and butyric acids, may also be present and they are
associated with bacterial activity. Butyric acid is characterised by an unpleasant, buttery and cheesy
aroma and its concentration increases during ageing. Hexanoic, octanoic, decanoic, dodecanoic, myristic
(14 carbon atoms), palmitic (16 carbon atoms) and stearic (18 carbon atoms) acids are formed by
yeasts (Tsakiris et al., 2014). In distilled spirits the concentration of free fatty acids is low owing to the
esterification and separation by distillation; thus, the concentration in wine distillates, like Cognac, is in
the range of 50 mg 0.1 L-1 p.a. (Christoph and Bauer-Christoph, 2007).
Table 4. Odour Quality, Odor Threshold Value in Water and/or Ethanol Solution and Concentration
Range of Main Alcohols in Distilled Spirits
Ethyl acetate, mainly produced as a result of esterification of acetic acid, is the main ester to occur
in fermented products and their distillates; it contributes significantly to a solvent-like nail polish off-
flavour at levels higher than 400 mg /100 mL p.a. (Christoph and Bauer-Christoph, 2007) and the range
is about 0.4 to 0.8 g L-1 of pure alcohol (Tsakiris et al., 2014). Ethyl acetate has a recovery of 100 per
cent in continuous distillation and 60 per cent in batch distillation (Tsakiris et al., 2014). Ethyl acetate
is mostly found in the head fraction, and the ethyl lactate in the tail fraction; therefore, the distillation
cuts can influence the presence of these compounds in the final brandy. Ethyl lactate has a negative
influence on brandy quality, and usually is accompanied by diethyl succinate, which is regarded as
a spoilage compound that can be removed along with the tails (Louw and Lambrechts, 2012). Ethyl
butyrate concentration increases with ageing, with the absence of antioxidant and antimicrobial agents,
and mainly with increased temperature (Tsakiris et al., 2014).
Brandy Production: Fundamentals and Recent Developments 629
Longer-chain ethyl esters also contribute to the total ester content of brandy. These esters are
generally associated with fruity aromas and contribute to the overall brandy quality. Their quantities
and mutual proportions are of great importance for the perceived flavour of a spirit drink since their
concentrations are generally above the sensory threshold values. Especially the low-boiling ethyl esters,
like ethyl 2-methylbutanoate, ethyl hexanoate, and ethyl octanoate, and the acetates like ethyl acetate,
isoamyl acetate, isobutyl acetate, hexyl acetate, and 2-phenethyl acetate are of great importance for the
flavour of distilled spirits (Christoph and Bauer-Christoph, 2007). Over 160 esters have been identified in
wines and most of them are also present in brandies. Almost all esters are low-boiling-point compounds
and are distilled in the beginning. Thus, the point at which the heads are cut to remove undesirable
compounds must be controlled in such a way no to remove too many desirable esters. Similarly, the tails
must not be cut too early in the distillation to preserve more esters. Recovery varies between 40-60 per
cent, depending on the distillation technique (Louw and Lambrechts, 2012; Tsakiris et al., 2014).
The flavour fraction with the lowest volatility is composed of C14-C18 fatty acid esters; these esters
as well as the long-chain fatty alcohols may contribute to the stearine-like smell that is characteristic of
Scotch malt whisky, in particular. Malo-lactic fermentation also has an influence on the concentration of
these compounds; distillates show a loss of fruitiness and aroma intensity with decreasing levels of ethyl
hexanoate, hexyl acetate, 2-phenethyl acetate, and with increasing levels of ethyl lactate, acetic acid,
and diethyl succinate (Christoph and Bauer-Christoph, 2007). In general, wines pressed by continuous
presses contain higher amounts of ethyl esters of long-chain fatty acids (14-18) because they contain
relatively lower oxygen, which affects their synthesis by yeasts. Distilling wine in the presence of yeasts
contained in fermentation lees leads to enrichment in fatty acid esters, such as ethyl octanoate (fruity,
floral, pineapple, apple and pear) and ethyl decanoate (fruity, pear, wine, etc.). Aromatic synergy between
those esters strengthens their olfactory impact. Fermentation lees also supply the wine spirit with fatty
acids (C8-C18, saturated and unsaturated) which are at the origin of aromatic derivatives formed by their
oxidation into aldehydes or ketones during the ageing process (Lurton et al., 2012). Recent research
has shown that some brandies contain naturally rare ethyl esters, which may have some impact on their
aroma. Such compounds are ethyl 2-, 3- and 4-methylpentanoate and ethyl cyclohexanoate, which exhibit
pleasant strawberry–liquorices-like odours (Tsakiris et al., 2014). The concentration of ethyl pentanoate
is higher in German brandies than in Cognac and similar to some Spanish and French brandies (Uselmann
and Schieberle, 2015).
The ethyl ester content of brandies increases during ageing because of the slow esterification of
different organic acids with ethanol. As brandy matures, ethyl esters become less flavour-active due
to an increase in their solubility in aqueous ethanol by the wood-extracted materials. Preserving wines
before distillation in the presence of lees has been connected with increased content of ethyl esters, since
they are generally retained within yeast cells rather than being released into the fermenting must during
fermentation (Tsakiris et al., 2014). Duran-Guerrero et al. (2011) found that ethyl esters were the main
family of volatile compounds responsible for the differentiation among the three different categories of
sherry brandies. The concentration of ethyl esters increased during the aging process, appearing in higher
amounts in those sherry brandies submitted to longer aging in wood.
Higher alcohol acetate synthesis as well hydrolytic breakdown continue enzymatically during ageing
based on the chemical composition and storage conditions of the brandy, due to formation of acetic acid
from the xylans extracted from the wood (Louw and Lambrechts, 2012; Tsakiris et al., 2014)
5.11. Caramel
According to the European legislation, wine brandies may only contain added caramel as a means to acquire
colour. Nevertheless, there is no legal limit for the concentration of this additive, neither specifications
for the product and the technological procedure have been prescribed. The addition of caramel is quite
common in the production of aged spirit beverages since it gives them an amber colouration, that is
attractive to the consumer. The chemical composition of caramel is complex due to the large number of
substances produced because of pyrolysis of carbohydrates, such as sucrose, glucose or starch. However,
furanic compounds are also present, such as furfural or 5-hydroxylmethyl furfural, of which the latter
is found in much higher concentrations (Tsakiris et al., 2014; Canas and Belchior, 2013). For quality
632 Applied Aspects of Winemaking: Production of Wine
control purposes, the correlation analysis between the caramel concentration and the characteristics of
the brandies reveals that caramel mainly influences HMF content, total phenolic index and coordinate a*,
since the correlations are positive and significant for all brandies as well as for the lightness which are
negative and are very significant for all of them. It is also shown that the ratio of furfural/HMF is a useful
tool to detect the addition of caramel in aged wine brandies (Canas and Belchior, 2013).
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