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Cider (Cyder; Hard Cider): The Product and Its Manufacture

E Coton and M Coton, Université de Brest, Plouzané, France


H Guichard, Institut Francais des Productions Cidricoles, Le Rheu, France
ã 2016 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Definition and Origin Although the generic term ‘cider’ is commonly used, the
term ‘ciders’ is more appropriate to reflect the large variety of
Cider is generally defined as an alcoholic beverage obtained by fermented apple products. According to production region,
apple juice (apple must) fermentation. Noteworthy, in North cider can be produced from only apples, with the addition of
America, the term ‘cider’ is rather associated with a cloudy unfer- pear or from apple concentrate. Additives such as sugar, acid,
mented and unpasteurized apple juice, whereas the fermented or coloring agents can also be used. Sugar content may vary
product is called ‘hard cider.’ In Europe, the fermented product is leading to dry, semidry, or sweet ciders. Carbon dioxide (CO2)
mainly named ‘cider’ in the UK, ‘cidre’ in France, ‘sidra’ in Spain, may be absent or present and obtained in the final product by
and ‘apfelwein’ in Germany. Another common fruit fermenta- carbonation or a secondary fermentation. In this context,
tion is obtained from pears and leads to a product named ‘perry’ beyond the classical definition of the term cider, it is important
in English or ‘poiré’ in French. It is worth mentioning that cider to note that several country regulations exist to define cider and
can either be a final product ready for consumption or an inter- cidermaking. Examples of regulations include the French
mediate product used for apple brandy (e.g., ‘Calvados’ in Nor- “Décret n 87–600 du 29 juillet 1987 modifiant le décret n
mandy and ‘Lambig’ in Brittany) production by distillation or 53–978 du 30 septembre 1953 relatif à l’orientation de la
cider vinegar via an acetic fermentation. Moreover, Calvados production cidricole et à la commercialisation des cidres et
blended with apple must leads to an aperitif-type beverage (i.e., des poirés,” the UK “Customs & Excise Notice 162: cider
predinner drink) named ‘Pommeau’ in France. production” and the Spanish “Orden de 1 de agosto de 1979
Like the other major fermented beverages (i.e., wine and por la que se reglamentan las sidras y otras bebidas derivadas
beer), cider is one of the oldest alcoholic beverages in the de la manzana.” In these regulations, authorized products
world; Hebrews called it ‘sichar,’ whereas Romans and Greeks entering the cidermaking process as well as specific analytical
called it ‘sicera’ and ‘sikera,’ respectively. From an etymological parameters (e.g., ethanol, volatile acidity, or SO2 levels) are
point of view, the name cider would come from ‘sicera’ (mean- defined.
ing any fermented beverage that is not wine; Cambridge Psal- Moreover, to ensure cider product quality, several certifica-
ter); this can especially be observed in Normandy, as ‘cidre’ was tions exist at the national or international (European) level.
originally spelled ‘sidre.’ Although the name cider was not used They are delivered based on certain product specifications and
at the time, during antiquity, a certain number of writings by requirements to ensure product authenticity and quality for
Pliny the Elder or Palladius refer to alcoholic beverages consumers. Examples of these certifications, which are gener-
obtained from apples or pears. During the ninth century, the ally easily recognizable by specific logos on the label, include
term ‘sicetores,’ referring to brewers producing ale but also
‘pomacium’ from apples, was used by Charlemagne. In France, • Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and covers, as
the first use of the word ‘cidre’ was found in the Conception de defined by the European Commission, “agricultural prod-
Nostre-Dame (Wace, twelfth century). From this time, and ucts and foodstuffs which are produced, processed and
thanks to the invention of the press (thirteenth century), prepared in a given geographical area using recognized
cider production extended to various apple-producing know-how” (e.g., Cidre Pays d’Auge, Cidre de Cornouaille
European regions. From the fourteenth to twentieth centuries, and Sidra de Asturias).
technological practices and processes were optimized and led • Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) and covers, as
to higher volumes and better-quality products. Nowadays, defined by the European Commission, “agricultural prod-
cider production, although far more limited than wine and ucts and foodstuffs closely linked to the geographical area.
beer, can be found on every continent in apple-growing At least one of the stages of production, processing or
regions worldwide. In Europe, the UK (mainly West Country, preparation takes place in the area” (e.g., Cidre de Bretagne,
West Midlands but also Wales), France (mainly Normandy and Cidre de Normandie, Gloucestershire cider, Herefordshire
Brittany), Spain (mainly Asturias and Basque country), and cider, and Worcestershire cider).
Germany are the main cider-producing countries, although • Organic farming corresponds to products that must comply
many others have local productions (e.g., Ireland, Austria, with strict EU requirements covering not only production
Poland, Sweden, Norway). In North America, hard cider pro- and processing, but also the control and labeling of organic
duction is done in the United States, Canada, and even Mexico. foods. This certification has gained interest due to strong
Interestingly, in Quebec, a new cider type named ‘ice cider’ societal demand but also higher commercial value for the
(equivalent to icewine in enology and thus using apples with product.
high sugar contents due to natural frost) has recently appeared. • ‘Label Rouge’ (red label) is specific to France and attests that
In South America, cider is produced in Argentina and Chile. the product, examined by a national commission, presents
Cider production is also found in Asia (China and Japan), superior overall quality compared to a similar product (e.g.,
Africa (South Africa), Australia (Tasmania), and New-Zealand. Cidre de Normandie, Cidre Royal Guillevic).

Encyclopedia of Food and Health http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-384947-2.00163-X 119


120 Cider (Cyder; Hard Cider): The Product and Its Manufacture

Production organoleptic qualities that make them uninteresting for direct


consumption linked to their acidity or natural polyphenol
Cider production practices in France (Figure 1) and the UK, content. On the contrary, these traits provide high product
although both leading to products called ciders, exhibit major qualities in terms of body equilibrium (sweetness, acidity,
differences that in some instances can even be considered astringency, and bitterness) that are not obtained using dessert
opposite. In the following section, these practices will be apples. Different cider apple cultivars exist, and more than
used as examples. 1000 have been described, although only a few are used for
production. They are classified into six categories based on
juice-specific savors:
Raw Material
• Sweet: These apple varieties are the blandest of the six
Although cider can be produced from any apple cultivar, in categories. They have low acid (<60 mequiv. l1) and poly-
Europe, a distinction is traditionally made between dessert, phenol (<2 g l1) contents and up to 15% sugar (cultivars:
cooking, and cider apples. Cider apples have distinct Douce Coëtligné, Doux Normandie, Muscadet Petit de l’Orne,
Rouge Duret, Sweet Copin, Sweet Alfortd, Nortwood . . .).
• Sour: These apples are mildly sour (60–90 mequiv. l1)
Manual or
with low polyphenols (<2 g l1) (cultivars: Guillevic, Jude-
mechanical harvest
line, Rouget de Dol, Locard blanc . . .).
• Sharp: These apples provide sourness and freshness to cider
Storage to maturity due to their high acidity (>90 and up to 240 mequiv. l1)
and low polyphenol (<2 g l1) contents (cultivars: Petit
Jaune, Judor, Avrolles, Locard vert, Crimson King, Brown’s
Variety blending Apple . . .).
• Bittersweet: This apple type corresponds to intermediate
cultivars with low acidity (<60 mequiv. l1) and high poly-
Washing & sorting phenol (>2 g l1 and <3 g l1) contents providing bitter-
ness and astringency to cider (cultivars: Douce Moën, Bedan,
Binet Rouge, Bisquet, Ashton Bitter, Dabinett, Yarlington Mill,
Milling Tremlett’s Bitter . . .).
• Bittersharp: These apples have high acid (>60 mequiv. l1
pomace
Water leaching and up to 240 mequiv. l1) and total polyphenols (>2 g l1
Cuvage
and up to 6 g l1) (cultivars: Cazo jaune, Kingston Black,
Foxwhelp . . .).
• Bitter: These apples have low acid (<60 mequiv. l1) and
Pressing
high total polyphenols (3–9 g l1) (cultivars: Marie
Ménard, Kermerrien, Petit Amer, Fréquin rouge, Bramtot, Ellis
Apple juice Bitter . . .).
Pressing
Traditionally, ciders are not obtained from a single cultivar.
Pre-fermentation Indeed, blending (‘pommage’) of different apple types allows
juice treatments for the production of balanced ciders with various organoleptic
qualities. Also, three maturity stages can be distinguished: early
season (beginning to end of September), midseason (begin-
Fermentation
ning of October to mid-November), and late season (mid-
November to end of December). After harvest, which is rather
Stabilization by mechanically performed nowadays, apples are stored for a
fining or filtration maximum of 5 days before processing to reach full maturity
and to ensure that all starch has been converted into sugar. This
Blending short time period allows good fruit preservation and texture
compatible with optimal pressing.

Bottling
Milling and Pressing
Prise de mousse Before any processing operation, fruit sorting and washing are
or/and carbonation
required to eliminate rotten fruits and potential foreign mate-
rials (e.g., wood pieces, grass, soil, and stones) that could
Commercialization impact overall product quality. Rotten fruits are associated
with mold contamination and originate either directly
Figure 1 French cidermaking diagram. Steps in lighter gray and from the apple tree itself (Monilia spp.) or indirectly after
discontinued lines are optional. impacts due to falling and being in contact with the ground
Cider (Cyder; Hard Cider): The Product and Its Manufacture 121

(Fusarium spp.). All damaged fruit, especially in the case of the traditional juice treatment, and about half of French cider
mechanical harvesting, can also be spoiled by secondary juices are still treated by this method.
molds belonging to Botrytis and Penicillium genera. Beyond
the rotten aspect of these fruits and potential associated off- • Keeving relies on the ability of pectins to form a gel via PME
enzyme and calcium action. All compounds necessary for
flavors, it is worth noting that some molds are also able to
keeving (pectin, PME, and calcium) are naturally present in
produce toxins (mycotoxins) that may have an impact on
juice. During PME demethylation, an increase of acidic
human health. Milling (rapâge in French) is then performed
groups on pectin chains is observed. In the presence of
to obtain fruit pulp for more efficient juice (or must) extrac-
calcium, bonds will form between pectic chains, thus lead-
tion. In general, a high-speed mill corresponds to a wheel
ing to gel formation. After 2–6 days, CO2 is generated by
bearing graters or coarse knives rotating against a fixed surface;
the onset of the fermentation process, and the bubbling
they are calibrated to tear the fruit tissues without smashing the
action will force the gel to rise to the top of the tank,
seeds. Fine milling is used for firm apples, whereas rougher
carrying along suspension deposits (rich in nitrogen) that
milling is used for very ripe apples. In France, an extra step
form a complex structure called chapeau brun. At the same
called ‘cuvage’ (pectin leaching for 2–5 h for better pressing
time, complexed materials will also sediment to the bottom
yields) can be performed.
of the tank. The clarified juice is situated between the gel
In both the UK and France, the next step involves pressing
and sediment layers. The natural process is slow and not
the pulp by exerting high pressure. Nowadays, technological
always reliable. Nowadays, in order to increase the reliabil-
evolutions have led to the use of semicontinuous, continuous,
ity of this static system, fungal PME preparations and CaCl2
or even automated presses, although discontinued and more
are added. Recently, a continuous dynamic system, termed
traditional presses can still be encountered in farm and arti-
flottation, has also been used by some cider producers. In
sanal cider productions. The main types encountered are
this case, the juice is treated for up to 48 h, before being
• Horizontal presses: They correspond to compressible cham- introduced in a specific device with nitrogen bubbling in
bers, equipped with several juice ducts, in which the pulp is the presence of CaCl2.
introduced. Then pressure is applied through the action of a • Settling is obtained by pectin hydrolysis, using a combina-
piston or a membrane. Thanks to several cycles of pressure tion of enzymes (PME, endopolygalacturonase and pectin-
and homogenization, high extraction yields (up to lyase). The clarified juice is obtained by decanting; some-
800 l T1) can be reached. times this is followed by fining by gelatin addition. This
• Continuous belt presses: In this case, the pulp is placed method is widely used by industrial cider producers.
between two bands that will go through a series of rollers
The clarified juice obtained by either method is then trans-
that apply pressure onto the belt, resulting in a pressing
ferred to another tank to begin the next production step.
action. This type of press gives yields ranging from 600 to
Prefermentation clarification generates juices without any sus-
750 l T1.
pension deposits and low bacterial counts, thus reducing
Pressing leads to two products, on the one hand, a liquid phase potential microbial spoilage. Moreover, amino nitrogen con-
corresponding to the juice, also called ‘apple must’ (moût pur tent and yeast counts are also reduced, thus leading to a slow
jus in French), and on the other hand, a solid phase called fermentation. Polyphenols have also been shown to be
pomace (marc in French). After coarse screening, the juice is affected by these treatments, mainly through a reduction in
transported through piping systems to stainless steel, HDPE both flavanol content and average degree of polymerization.
(high-density polyethylene) or fiberglass tanks. Less com- In the UK, keeving is not performed but juice additions
monly, wood tanks can still be encountered in more tradi- are. The goal is to obtain a blend of fermentable sugar
tional cider productions, even though this material is more sources, including juice but also apple juice concentrates
difficult to clean and sterilize, thus leading to potential product and/or syrups that give a final product of 10–12% alcohol
spoilage. after fermentation. Whereas in the case of French cider pro-
The obtained pomace (200–400 kg per ton) still contains duction, everything is done to allow for slow fermentation by
compounds of interest. A second extraction can therefore be reducing nutrients, reducing yeast counts, and using cold
performed by water leaching (countercurrent water percolation temperatures. In the UK, the goal is to ferment juices to
of the pomace) or by pressing the watered pomace. These dryness in as a short time as wine. To achieve this, several
actions lead to diluted juice (moût de diffusion or petit jus in nutrients are added to the blend. Although there is obviously
French) that will be added to the first juice obtained. The no sugar shortage in apple juice, ammonium nitrogen and
extraction step may be facilitated by using enzymatic cocktails vitamins (enzymatic cofactors), which are essential for yeast
(pectinases and hemicellulases, or pectin methylesterase [PME] development and thus for fermentation, can be limiting,
in the presence of calcium) – by themselves or in combination thereby leading to sluggish or stuck fermentations. This is
with the mechanical material. especially the case for apple juice concentrates and syrups.
In this context, ammonium phosphate (250 ppm) will be
used to standardize the blend in amino nitrogen content
(about 100 mM). Thiamin, biotin, panthoneate, or pyridox-
Prefermentation Juice Treatments
ine vitamins can also be added. As performed in France,
In France, juices are subjected to additional specific steps called British cider makers also depectinize the juice using pectino-
défécation and décantation (keeving and settling in English) to lytic enzyme preparations. This indeed facilitates filtration
obtain slow and long fermentations. Keeving corresponds to operations and prevents haze formation.
122 Cider (Cyder; Hard Cider): The Product and Its Manufacture

Finally, sulfur dioxide (SO2) is an important technological and 2(c)). During this stage, little alcohol is produced
additive that is added during both French and British fermen- (<1%), but numerous volatile compounds are produced,
tation processes. It presents two main properties of interest for especially esters that largely contribute to the aromatic
cider making and is widely used in oenology. First, it exhibits qualities of the final product.
antiseptic activity against bacteria and non-Saccharomyces yeast. • Alcoholgenic phase (alcoholic fermentation): During the
The multiple SO2 targets leading to microbial cell death transition between the oxidative phase and this phase,
explains why no sulfite resistance has been observed to date. microbial diversity largely decreases and the Saccharomyces
Second, sulfite has antioxidant (leading to sulfate formation in uvarum species becomes dominant (Figures 2(a) and 2(c)
the presence of oxygen) and antioxidative (oxidase inhibition) and Table 1). Under anaerobic conditions, this species,
activities. SO2 performance is directly linked to pH as only the more adapted to cold temperature than Saccharomyces cere-
undissociated form (termed ‘molecular SO2’) is active. There- visiae (the main species carrying out the alcoholic fermen-
fore, it is recommended to adjust the pH of the juice to pH 3.75 tation in many fermented beverages), mainly metabolizes
by adding malic acid, the main organic acid found in apples. sugars into ethanol and CO2 as well as contribute to the
Moreover, SO2 interacts with various chemical compounds organoleptic qualities of the cider by producing fusel alco-
(especially aldehydes), microorganisms, and solids; therefore hols, acids, and more important, ethyl esters.
only the so-called free SO2 will be active and participate to the • Maturation phase: This stage actually corresponds to a
overall juice or blend quality. However, SO2 can negatively slower fermentation period, usually associated with a
affect cider aroma, in particular due to its action on oxidative decrease in S. uvarum counts and sometimes with the
flora, and more important is considered to be an allergen (legal appearance of other yeast species such as Lachanceae cidri,
limits for SO2 contents in ciders have been set in Europe). S. cerevisiae, Brettanomyces anomala, or B. bruxellensis. In
Although no efficient alternative has been found to date, ascor- general, LAB counts can also rise at this time (Figure 2
bic acid (antioxidant properties) addition can help reduce SO2 (b)), due to increased fermentation temperatures (climate
concentrations. changes) and their metabolism (especially for the Oenococ-
cus oeni species). They induce malolactic fermentation (this
transformation sometimes happens concurrent with the
Fermentation
alcoholic fermentation). LAB species encountered mainly
Fermentation refers to microbial activities that will transform belong to Oenococcus, Lactobacillus, Leuconostoc, and Pedio-
the juice into cider. Like any other technological process, the coccus genera (Table 2). Malolactic fermentation results in
key factor to obtain the desired end product is control. This is the decarboxylation of the main apple juice acid (malic
especially true and critical when living organisms are involved. acid) to lactate. The loss of a carboxylic (–COOH) function
In the context of cidermaking, several technological levers can leads not only to the production of CO2 but also to a
be used. These levers correspond to biotic factors (microbial reduction in acidity. Although this metabolic step can pos-
inoculation or indigenous flora) and abiotic factors, either itively contribute to the overall organoleptic quality of
intrinsic (pH, amino nitrogen content, sugar content) or the product, it is not always desired as it may lead to ciders
extrinsic (temperature, oxygen content). As discussed earlier with high pH values (>3.75), compatible with microbial
for amino nitrogen content, the contrast between the French spoilage. Malolactic transformation can be controlled by
and British processes is also obvious for the fermentation step. racking, centrifugation, and filtration operations. The mat-
French production relies exclusively on indigenous flora. uration stage can last until bottling.
The typical fermentation temperature is between 5 and 15  C,
Except for traditional ciders, British fermentation can be consid-
due to the fact that cider tanks were traditionally situated
ered as the complete opposite. Indeed, in the UK cider industry,
outside the buildings and thus directly influenced by seasonal
rapid and complete fermentations are performed. To do so, not
temperatures. This also prevents or inhibits lactic acid bacteria
only are juice compositions adjusted as described earlier, but
(LAB) and spoilage microorganism growth. The combination
they are also inoculated with commercial active dried yeasts
of low temperature, low amino nitrogen content, and lower
(S. uvarum, S. bayanus, or a mix of both). The commercial yeasts
yeast counts (by centrifugation or filtration at strategical time
usually originate from the wine industry. Notable technological
points) yields slow fermentation times, in accordance with the
traits of these yeast strains include aroma production, killer
desired organoleptic qualities. In the case of PDO and Label
activity (favors strain development in the presence of other
Rouge ciders, a 6-week minimum fermentation time before
yeasts), and flocculation (for easy clarification). Inoculation
bottling is required. In the cider industry, temperature is regu-
trials, concerning both alcoholic fermentation (even using
lated between 8 and 10  C by refrigeration systems to control
mixed cultures for ester production), but also malolactic trans-
the fermentation, whereas in traditional ciderhouses, racking,
formation, have been performed in various countries; however,
centrifugation or filtration can still be used for control.
to this date, this method has not yet been widespread.
French cider production consists of several phases:
Usually in the UK cider industry, an aerobic phase is per-
• Oxidative phase: This phase is named oxidative due to the formed to favor yeast sterol production, essential to cope with
presence of oxygen in juice and lasts from 5 to 15 days. the final ethanol content. After this step, the inoculated juice is
From a microbiological point of view, high species biodi- fermented to dryness under anaerobic conditions for one week
versity can be observed (Tables 1 and 2) with oxidative or at temperatures ranging between 15 and 20  C.
slow fermentative yeasts especially belonging to the Metsch- In all cases, alcoholic fermentation is monitored by follow-
nikowia, Hanseniaspora, and Candida genera (Figures 2(a) ing density or specific gravity, until the desired residual
Cider (Cyder; Hard Cider): The Product and Its Manufacture 123

Table 1 Yeast biodiversity in cider during the various production steps

Species Cider type Dominance Fermentation stages when species can be found
a
Arthroascus schoenii (formerly Endomyces French cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase
schoenii)
Cryptococcus sp.a French cider þ Water for apple transport, cider must, oxidative
phase
Candida matritensis French cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase
Candida oleophila French cider, UK cider þ/ Cider must, oxidative phase
Candida parapsilosis Spanish cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase
Candida pomicola French cider, UK cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase
Candida sake French cider þ/ Cider must, oxidative phase
Candida stellata French cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase
Candida tropicalis French cider þ/ Cider must, oxidative phase
Dekkera anomala French cider þþ Maturation phase, bottled cider
Dekkera bruxellensis French cider þ Maturation phase, bottled cider
Hanseniaspora osmophila French cider, UK cider, þ Cider must, oxidative phase
Spanish cider
Hanseniaspora sp. French cider þ Alcoholic fermentation phase, maturation phase
Hanseniaspora uvarum French cider, UK cider, þþþ Cider must, oxidative phase
Spanish cider
Hanseniaspora valbyensis French cider, UK cider, þþ Cider must, oxidative phase or late stages
Spanish cider
Issatchenkia occidentalis French cider þ Water for apple transport, cider must, oxidative
phase
Issatchenkia terricola French cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase
Kloeckera sp. French cider, Spanish cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase
Kluyveromyces marxianus French cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase
Lachanceae cidri (formerly French cider þþ Alcoholic fermentation phase, maturation phase,
Zygosaccharomyces cidri) bottled cider
Metschnikowia pulcherrima French cider, UK cider, þþ Cider must, oxidative phase
Spanish cider
Meyerozyma guilliermondii (formerly Pichia French cider, UK cider, þþ Cider must, oxidative phase
guillermondii) Spanish cider
Pichia delftensis French cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase
Pichia fluxum French cider, Spanish cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase
Pichia membranifaciens French cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase
Pichia misumaiensis French cider, UK cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase
Pichia nakasei French cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase
Rhodotorula ingeniosa French cider þ Water for apple transport, cider must, oxidative
phase
Saccharomyces uvarum French cider, UK cider, þþþ Alcoholic fermentation phase, maturation phase,
Spanish cider bottled cider
Saccharomyces cerevisiae French cider, Spanish cider, þþ Alcoholic fermentation phase, maturation phase,
UK cider bottled cider
Saccharomycetes sp. French cider þ Water for apple transport, cider must, oxidative
phase
Torulaspora delbrueckii French cider þ Cider must, oxidative phase

Dominance based on studies available in the literature and unpublished data (French ciders). þ, punctually identified; þþ, regularly present; þþþ, dominant species.
a
Filamentous fungi.

sugar concentrations are reached (in the UK: dry, in France: < product is obtained by fining, centrifugation or filtration oper-
28 g l1 for ‘Brut,’ between 28 and 42 g l1 for ‘Demi-Sec,’ ations that can be combined or applied individually. Fining
and >35 g l1 for ‘Doux’ ciders). Malolactic fermentation consists of adding proteins that interact with polyphenols and
is monitored by the follow-up of malate and lactate form complexes to entrap matter in suspension while settling
using classical biochemical methods (ex. paper thin layer out. Typical fining agents correspond to gelatin (animal pro-
chromatography). tein) or chitosan (prepared from crab-shell chitin); however,
bentonite, a negatively charged absorbent clay, can also be
added to accentuate sedimentation. Filtration is performed
Postfermentation Treatments
using either kieselguhr, an unconsolidated form of diatomite,
After fermentation, different operations are performed before or plate filtration or microfiltration. For traditional ciders,
bottling. In most cases, cider is racked from the lees to clarify fining and filtration are not performed, thus leading to yeast
and stabilize the product. If not, a limpid and stabilized haze and deposit in the bottle.
124 Cider (Cyder; Hard Cider): The Product and Its Manufacture

Table 2 LAB biodiversity in cider during the various production steps

Species Dominance Fermentation stages when species can be found

Lactobacillus brevis þ MLF fermentation phase, maturation phase


Lactobacillus buchneri þþ All stages
Lactobacillus casei/paracasei þ Early and late phases
Lactobacillus collinoides þþþ All stages
Lactobacillus diolivorans þ Occasionally identified
Lactobacillus mali þ All stages
Lactobacillus pentosus þ All stages
Lactobacillus sp. þ Maturation phase
Lactobacillus fermentum þ All stages
Lactobacillus plantarum þ All stages
Leuconostoc mesenteroides þþþ Early, oxidative phase, less frequent in late phases
Oenococcus oeni þþþ Dominant during alcoholic, MLF, and maturation phase, can be present in all stages
Pediococcus ethanodurans þ Occasionally identified
Pediococcus parvulus þ All stages
Pediococcus pentosaceus þ All stages

Dominance based on studies available in the literature and unpublished data (French ciders). þ, punctually identified; þþ, regularly present; þþþ, dominant species.

1.00E+08
1 2 3

1.00E+07

1.00E+06
M. pulcherrima

1.00E+05 S. uvarum
CFU/ml

H. uvarum
1.00E+04
P. membranifaciens M W A D0 D3 D7 D15 D30 D60 D120 D180
1.00E+03 C. pomicola
H. uvarum
Hanseniaspora sp. H. uvarum
1.00E+02
Hanseniaspora sp.
1.00E+01

C. pomicola
1.00E+00
1 4 7 29 60 123 180
Day M. pulcherrima
(a)
P. membranifaciens

1 2 3
1.00E+08

1.00E+07 S. uvarum
1.00E+06 M. pulcherrima
Lactobacillus
1.00E+05 mali
M. pulcherrima
CFU/ml

1.00E+04 Leuconostoc
mesenteroides
1.00E+03 (c)
Oenococcus
1.00E+02 oeni

1.00E+01

1.00E+00
1 3 7 15 24 64 119 180
Date
(b)

Figure 2 Examples of microbial dynamics during cidermaking observed using culture-dependent (PCR-RFLP for yeast (a) and ARDRA for LAB (b)) and
culture–independent (using TGGE for yeast (c)) methods. All methods showed a decrease in biodiversity leading to the dominance of S. uvarum
for yeast (responsible for alcoholic fermentation) and O. oeni for LAB (responsible for malolactic fermentation). 1, 2, 3 correspond to fermentation
stages; W, water used to transport apples; and A, apples in silos.

Ciders are then blended based on the experience of the and Spain, British and French ciders are expected to be effer-
cidermaker. Noteworthy, although limited additions are vescent. In industrial or artisanal ciders, carbonation is per-
allowed in most countries (see detailed legislations), in the formed to saturate the liquid with ca. 5–6 g l1 CO2. Natural
UK, water is added to reach the desired alcoholic level. effervescence is obtained through a supplementary step, called
Other additives permitted include sweetening agents such as prise de mousse in French, and is usually performed during the
sugar, but also acids, coloring agents, and preservatives to maturation phase. To do so, indigenous yeast fermentation, or
obtain expected organoleptic qualities. Unlike in Germany inoculation of active dry yeasts in bottles or in tanks is
Cider (Cyder; Hard Cider): The Product and Its Manufacture 125

performed. The yeasts naturally ferment residual sugars to form and high amino nitrogen. Acetaldehyde levels are regulated
CO2. Temperature, yeast counts, and residual amino nitrogen in France (<100–120 mg l1).
will be the main factors affecting effervescence in the final • Acrolein spoilage: This spoilage is mainly associated with
product. ciders fermented to dryness and used for apple brandy
Finally, the product is bottled in glass or PET bottles or kegs production. Spoilage is associated with LAB able to degrade
using an isobarometric filling machine to preserve product glycerol (including L. collinoides, although this trait may be
effervescence. Pasteurization is possible according to product strain-dependent). Glycerol is produced (ca. 5 g l1) by
type and nature of the container (tunnel pasteurization after yeast during fermentation and provides roundness to the
filling for glass bottles, flash pasteurization and chilling before product. Glycerol is degraded via a glycerol dehydratase
bottling for PET bottles). Although the temperature and dura- into 3-hydroxypropionaldehyde (3-HPA). This molecule is
tion applied for microbiological stabilization are not necessar- a precursor for acrolein and can be nonenzymatically
ily high, due to pH and alcohol content, this step may still formed via spontaneous dehydration in acidic conditions.
impact the organoleptic characteristics of the final products It leads to pepper flavors and a strong bitter taste.
(typical cooked apples or caramel flavors). The product is • Lactic acid spoilage: This is due to the natural metabolism of
then commercialized. LAB, associated with their early development before alco-
holic fermentation is complete (in the presence of ferment-
able sugars). It can be easily detected as malolactic
Cider Spoilage transformation only leads to L-lactate while lactic acid spoil-
age is associated with both D- and L-lactate isomers. Acetic
Different types of spoilage can occur during cidermaking and can
acid is also formed by heterofementative LAB. The eco-
arise from either the presence of undesirable microorganisms or
nomic impact of lactic acid spoilage is rather low.
specific physicochemical parameters. A survey performed in
2004 among French cidermakers showed that microbial spoilage The following microbial spoilages are less frequent:
was of greater importance. In terms of frequency and economic
impact, the main microbial spoilages are • Ropiness: This spoilage is characterized by abnormal viscos-
ity associated with the presence of exopolysaccharides
• Phenolic off-flavor: This organoleptic defect is due to volatile (sugar polymers). The type of exopolysaccharides depends
phenols usually associated with ‘animal,’ ‘leather,’ ‘phenolic,’ on the producing microorganism. Responsible microorgan-
or ‘spicy’ aromatic notes. This spoilage has been extensively isms in cider have been associated to LAB (e.g., Pediococcus
studied in wine and to a lesser extent in cider. It has been damnosus, Lactobacillus sicerae), or sporulating bacteria
shown that Brettanomyces spp. yeasts are responsible for the (Bacillus licheniformis).
transformation of hydroxycinnamic acids into volatile phe- • Acetic acid spoilage: This alteration is easily recognizable due
nols via vinyl phenol intermediates (these reactions are to its characteristic acidic taste and vinegar flavor. It is
mediated by hydroxycinnamate decarboxylase, and vinyl- associated with the development of acetic acid bacteria
phenol reductase activities). However, in wine as in cider, (e.g., Acetobacter, Gluconobacter spp.) that metabolize etha-
hydroxycinnamic acid mainly exists in an esterified form nol in the presence of oxygen. Acetic acid can then react
(with tartaric acid in wine and quinic acid in cider) that with ethanol to form ethyl acetate, another off-flavor mol-
Brettanomyces cannot metabolize. In wine, it was shown ecule. Therefore, maintaining the product in anaerobic
that commercial enzymatic preparations, containing a cin- conditions will prevent this spoilage.
namoyl esterase, were mainly responsible for hydroxycin-
namic acid production. In cider, it was recently shown that Concerning, physicochemical spoilage (‘casse’ in French), they
Lactobacillus collinoides could metabolize the main hydroxy- are observed when cider is in contact with air and thus, as
cinnamic ester, chlorogenic acid (¼ caffeoylquinic acid), and stated earlier, can be controlled by using anaerobic conditions.
produce the caffeic acid precursor. This precursur can be In the presence of oxygen, polyphenol oxidation occurs
further metabolized into ethyl catechol by either L. collinoides conferring product instability and color change. This reaction
or B. anomala species. is observed in the presence of metals (iron or copper)
that contribute to polyphenol complexation. Oxidative
• Cider-sickness: This spoilage, known as ‘framboisé’ in
spoilage is associated with the polyphenol oxidase enzyme,
France, is less frequent but can have a severe economic
impact. It mainly concerns sweet ciders. It occurs in linked to overripened or moldy fruits. Finally, protein haze,
tanks or in bottles and is characterized by an excessive characterized by deposits in bottles, is associated with
production of acetaldehyde (often above regulatory limits, protein–polyphenol combinations. Noteworthy, protein con-
see following). This leads to unpleasant flavors (rotten centration being low in cider, it is rarely observed.
banana, vegetal aromas), haze formation, high pressure in
bottles, and excessive foaming. This spoilage is associated
with the development of the Gram-negative bacterium, Cider Composition, Organoleptic Qualities and
Zymomonas mobilis (the subspecies pomaceae is associated Health Impact
with British cider-sickness, whereas the subspecies francensis
Composition
is associated with French ‘framboisé’ ciders). It vigorously
ferments sugars into multiple end products including exces- Cider composition (Table 3) first depends on apple juice com-
sive amounts of acetaldehyde and CO2. Favorable factors position and thus not only on the apple varieties but also culture
are residual sugars, absence of SO2 addition, pH >3.75, conditions, fruit maturity, and physical (cracks and bruises) or
126 Cider (Cyder; Hard Cider): The Product and Its Manufacture

Table 3 Physicochemical parameters determined for 150 ciders representative of French cider production

Total
Mass Alcohol L-Malate D-Lactate L-Lactate Acidity Volatile Sorbitol Fructose Glucose Sucrose sugar
1 1 1
density (%vol) pH (mg l ) (mg l ) (mg l ) (mequiv. l1) acidity (mg l1) (mg l1) (mg l1) (mg l1) (mg l1)

All cidersFrom 1000.9 1.4 3.28 0.00 0.04 0.04 1.11 0.03 3.1 8.2 0.1 0.0 8.0
To 1040.2 7.2 4.22 6.79 1.53 4.35 7.09 1.11 14.1 62.7 20.8 11.8 82.3
Mean 1017.4 4.1 3.74 1.29 0.24 1.61 2.63 0.42 6.3 34.5 7.1 0.4 39.6
Median 1016.6 4.2 3.76 0.45 0.16 1.79 2.29 0.43 6.0 34.2 5.8 0.0 37.2
Dry From 1000.9 2.9 3.43 0.00 0.06 0.04 1.26 0.03 3.7 8.2 0.1 0.0 8.0
To 1023.4 7.2 4.03 5.05 1.53 3.14 4.37 1.11 14.1 61.4 20.8 2.4 78.1
Mean 1011.3 4.9 3.75 1.25 0.27 1.48 2.27 0.54 6.5 25.7 4.0 0.1 28.3
Median 1010.6 4.9 3.75 0.67 0.18 1.71 2.01 0.53 5.8 25.5 3.5 0.0 27.0
Semisweet From 1010.4 3.0 3.28 0.00 0.05 0.12 1.11 0.04 3.1 22.7 2.3 0.0 24.9
To 1028.2 5.5 4.22 6.79 0.69 4.35 5.77 0.89 10.5 52.0 15.2 1.1 59.1
Mean 1018.4 4.2 3.77 1.14 0.19 1.94 2.25 0.44 6.4 37.1 7.2 0.1 42.1
Median 1018.3 4.2 3.80 0.38 0.14 2.15 2.09 0.50 6.5 36.9 7.1 0.0 42.1
Sweet From 1014.0 1.4 3.35 0.01 0.04 0.13 1.20 0.04 3.7 30.4 3.7 0.0 11.6
To 1040.2 5.2 4.06 4.19 0.57 3.45 7.09 0.67 7.3 62.7 18.6 11.8 82.3
Mean 1025.2 3.1 3.70 1.93 0.18 1.32 3.47 0.24 5.3 45.3 11.7 2.3 53.8
Median 1025.4 2.8 3.70 2.60 0.14 0.85 3.18 0.15 5.3 46.3 12.4 1.0 54.3

(Source: IFPC)

biological (molds, worm holes) damage. Then, the process and according to the considered cultivar (40–150 mg l1).
microbial activity during fermentation impact the product. Yeast-assimilable nitrogen substances are of interest as
Apple juice is mainly constituted of water (80–90% w/v) but they will condition fermentation speed and achievement
also contains various soluble compounds: (as noted earlier, keeving can be used to control amino
nitrogen content in apple juice). They mainly correspond
• Sugars: They are the principal component of the soluble
to amino acids, in particular asparagine but also aspartic
matter, representing from 75% to 90% (80–170 g l1). They
acid (ca. 50% and 5% of total nitrogen, respectively).
are encountered in various forms: mono-, oligo-, and poly-
saccharides (amylose, amylopectin, pectins). However, the
• Vitamins: Vitamin C is the main vitamin found in apple
juice, but is generally lost during the process. Vitamin C
main sugar is fructose. It is the only one present in the final
may be added in some productions.
fermentation phase, as other fermentable sugars (glucose and
the disaccharide: sucrose) are rapidly metabolized into fruc-
• Minerals: Iron, potassium, as well as calcium and sodium,
are present in both apple juice and cider.
tose during the first two-thirds of the fermentation. Notewor-
thy, glucose can still be found in semisweet or sweet ciders. At
• Volatile compounds: These molecules are either varietal (orig-
inating from the fruit) or fermentative (originating from
the end of fermentation, all or part of these sugars are trans-
microbial metabolism). They belong to various chemical
formed into ethanol (generally 2–8% but up to 12% ABV –
families: alcohols, esters, ketones, aldehydes, phenols, sul-
alcohol by volume). In ciders, residual sugar concentrations
fur compounds, and organic acids.
are generally situated between 8 and 67 g l1. Moreover,
sorbitol, a nonfermentable sugar alcohol, ranges from 3 to
14 g l in cider.
Organoleptic Qualities
• Acids: The main acid, as noted earlier, is malic acid. It
can occur at concentrations between 1 and 10 g l1, accord- Concerning cider taste, the three main components that interact
ing to apple variety (ca. 85% of total acidity). Citric, acetic, to give the overall perception in the mouth are sugars, acids, and
quinic, and citromalic acids can also be detected. Galac- polyphenols. Sugars contribute to sweetness and roundness
turonic acid can be detected when enzymatic preparations perception. In this context, fructose, and to a lesser extent sor-
have been used due to pectin degradation. In ciders, lactic bitol, largely contributes to the sugary flavor of the final product.
acid is detected if malolactic transformation has occurred. Acids contribute to cider flavor and directly influence sweetness
• Polyphenols: Cider phenolic compounds are (1) flavan-3-ols perception. A positive acidity perception is associated with prod-
(composed of the monomers (þ)-catechin et ()-epicatechin uct freshness. Finally, polyphenols contribute to several product
and their corresponding polymer: procyanidin; 2–5 g kg1), traits: bitterness, astringency, and color. Concerning aroma,
(2) hydroxycinnamic acids (caffeic, p-coumaric and ferulic many volatile molecules contribute, according to their sensory
acids), and their esters (chlorogenic acid or 5- caffeoylquinic perception threshold, to cider aroma. Although some cider
acid being the most represented; 0.3–2.5 g kg1), (3) dihy- aromas are already present in apple juice (apple cultivar aromas
drochalcones (phloridzin, phloretin et phloretin-20 -O- such as hexanol, ethyl 2-hydroxycaproate, ethyl lactate, or dia-
xyloglucoside; 0.02–0.10 g kg1) as well as (4) flavonols cetyl), a large majority are produced during fermentation. The
(e.g., quercitrin, hyperin, or avicularin) and anthocyanins in molecules correspond to alcohols like propanol, isobutanol,
smaller quantities. isopentanol, benzylic alcohols, and 2-phenylethanol (known
• Nitrogenous compounds: They are only present in small for its rose aroma). Yeasts also produce esters during the alco-
quantities, although their content may vary considerably holic fermentation (e.g., ethyl 3-methylbutyrate, 2-phenylethyl
Cider (Cyder; Hard Cider): The Product and Its Manufacture 127

acetate, ethyl hexanoate, ethyl octanoate, ethyl decanoate alcohol 3.2 and 1.9 g/100 g, respectively. No fat, starch, or
among many others). Terpene derivatives, sulfur-containing proteins are found.
compounds, and lactones can also be detected.
All these compounds contribute to the aromatic complexity
of the final product and rely on a subtle balance between them Potential Benefits
(Table 4). As stated earlier, this balance can be affected by
several metabolites (e.g., volatile phenol, acetaldehyde, lactic • Microbial safety: Due to its intrinsic characteristics (low pH,
acid, acetic acid) originating from spoilage microorganisms. presence of alcohol and polyphenols – exhibiting bacterio-
Moreover, this can also be affected by aroma compounds static effects – and anaerobic conditions) and, in some
present at much higher levels than their sensory perception cases, the cidermaking process (pasteurization), cider does
threshold. Noteworthy, the amount of effervescence, bubble not contain pathogenic bacteria or permit their growth.
size, and persistence will also affect overall product perception. Reported cases of Shiga toxin-producing E. coli (serotype
O157:H7) have been reported in the literature, but are
actually associated with the nonfermented and unpasteur-
ized North American nonalcoholic product called cider (by
Health Impact
opposition to hard cider).
Like any other food product, a ‘benefits and risks’ approach • Antioxidant effect: Cider (like apples and apple juice) is rich
should be considered. The first aspect to consider is the nutri- in polyphenols that exhibit antioxidant properties. These
tional value of the product. As stated earlier, there is not one dietary molecules have been recognized as having health
cider but many ciders; thus a range of nutritional values can be benefits by inactivating free radicals (O2 and other reactive
observed according to the considered cider. Examples of values oxygen species) naturally produced in the body. In this
for French dry and sweet ciders are as follows: water 92.70 and context, like other polyphenol-rich food and beverages,
94.1, carbohydrates 2.35 and 3.21, fibers 0.5 in both types, cider and related apple products may contribute to

Table 4 Organoleptic descriptors associated with cider

Family Group Descriptor Family Group Descriptor

Tastes Acidic Sensation Sparkling


Bitter Astringent
Sweet
Aromas Fresh fruit Apple Aromas Floral White flowers
Pear Honeysuckle
Quince Violet
Apricot Acacia
Peach Honey
Grapefruit Rose
Lemon Spices Clove
Pineapple Cinnamon
Passion fruit Pepper
Mango Anis
Banana Resin
Raspberry Cedar
Strawberry Pine
Blackcurrant Grilled Roasting
Cherry Toasted bread
Complex fruit Crystallized fruits Sweet bread
Cooked fruit Licorice
Applesauce Smokey
Almond Woody Undergrowth
Hazelnut Fresh wood
Chestnut Humus
Fig ‘Brown’ Butterscotch
Prune Caramel
Vegetal Grass Chocolate
Mushroom Vanilla
Hay Mineral Flintstone
Mint Silex
Moss Milky Milk
Tobacco Butter
Yeast Animal Leather
Tea Musk
128 Cider (Cyder; Hard Cider): The Product and Its Manufacture

lowering risks of some chronic medical problems (particu- also be considered as an allergen to some individuals. In
larly cardiovascular diseases and cancers). Europe, labeling is compulsory if concentrations of more
• Minerals: Apple cider is a good source of potassium and than 10 mg kg1 or 10 mg l1 (expressed as SO2) of sulfur
iron. It is also low in sodium, making it compatible with a dioxide and sulfites are present (Directive 2003/89/EC).
sodium-restricted diet. • Patulin: This mycotoxin is a secondary metabolite produced by
• Low calorie content: Ciders possess low calorie contents, a number of fungal species (Aspergillus, Byssochlamys, and Pen-
compared to other alcoholic beverages (especially wine). icillium) with Penicillium expansum being the most frequent.
For example, in France, whereas 79 kcal/100 g were deter- Although patulin can be found in apples and apple juice,
mined for average wine, the following calorie contents have studies suggest that it is metabolized by Saccharomyces spp.
been determined for average cider, dry cider, and sweet during alcoholic fermentation to form (E)- and (Z)-ascladiol,
cider: 30.2, 32.8, and 27.1 kcal/100 g, respectively. Dry apparently less toxic compounds. Although ciders are less at
ciders have more calories than sweet ciders due to the fact risk, similar to fruit juices, concentrated fruit juices and other
that, for a same quantity, ethanol represents more calories fermented drinks from apples or containing apple juice, patu-
than sugar (7 vs. 4 kcal g1 for ethanol and sugar, lin content is regulated to maximum levels of 50 mg kg1 at the
respectively). EU level (Commission regulation (EC) N 1881/2006).
• Gluten-free: Cider is a gluten-free fermented beverage and • Biogenic amines: These molecules result from the metabo-
thus can be an alternative to beer for gluten-intolerant lism of living organisms (LAB in cider), mainly through the
people. This is especially used as a marketing argument in decarboxylation of the corresponding precursor amino
North America, where a higher percentage of the popula- acid. Histamine, tyramine, as well as putrescine and cadav-
tion is concerned with celiac disease. erine, can be encountered. They are undesirable due to their
physiological activity, especially in sensitive consumers
(with natural or drug-related mono-amine oxidase deficien-
Potential Negative Aspects cies). No legislation exists limiting the presence of these
metabolites in cider.
• Alcohol: Although ciders possesses low alcohol contents
(generally ranging from 2% to 8%) and observational stud-
ies suggest that moderate alcohol consumption is linked See also: Alcohol: Metabolism and Health Effects; Alcohol: Properties
with lower risks of coronary heart disease, cider should be and Determination; Apples; Beverage: Health Effects; Beverage: Patterns
consumed in moderation like any other alcoholic beverage. of Consumption; Lactic Acid Bacteria; Yeasts.
This is especially true for white ciders (7.5 ABV), an almost
colorless product made either by processing dessert apples
and pomace or by using apple concentrates with glucose or
corn syrup addition for alcohol production. This product, Further Reading
although often containing little apple juice, falls under the
Dürr P (1986) The flavour of cider. In: Morton ID and Macleod AJ (eds.) Food flavours:
UK regulation cider definition (Customs Notice 162). part B: the flavour of beverages, pp. 85–97. Amsterdam, Netherlands: Elsevier.
• Sugar: According to the amount of residual sugars or sugar Jarvis B (2014) Cider (Cyder; hard cider). In: Batt CA and Tortorello ML (eds.)
added, cider may contain little to high amounts of simple Encyclopedia of food microbiologyVol. 1, pp. 437–443. Elsevier.
sugars (up to more than 8 g per 100 ml). Therefore, this Jolicoeur C (2013) The new cider maker’s handbook: a comprehensive guide for craft
producers. White River Junction, USA: Chelsea Green Publishing Co.
should be taken into consideration in a balanced diet. Lea AGH and Drilleau J-F (2003) Cidermaking. In: Lea AGH and Piggot JR (eds.)
• SO2 : As stated earlier, sulfites are added during the produc- Fermented beverage production, 2nd ed., pp. 59–88. New York, NY: Kluwer
tion process to control microbial growth. However, SO2 can Academic/Plenum Publishers.

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