ISE1400 Change Is in The Air

Season 1401
• Upcycling 2 Jean Shirts into a Shirt Dress

• Jean Dress Sewalong with Angela Wolf
Fabric, Patterns and Sewing Supplies are found on:

The Angela Wolf Pattern Collection
Upcycling Denim Shirts into a Dress
My husband recently brought me a bag of

his denim shirts to give away. I noticed a few
of these had logos from marina’s we had
visited on our vacations and hated to get rid
of them.
I thought of maybe making a denim quilt, but

that is not realistic for my life right now 😊
Then it occurred to me to make a jean dress!

Yes, now this I will get some use out of.
Supplies: 2 denim shirts
 Click here for the blog post with a full

tutorial on upcycling these shirts into a cute
dress.
Jean Dress Sew-Along
Announcing a full season sewalong! This

season of It’s Sew Easy I will be sewing a
shirt dress from beginning to end and you
can follow along each week watching each
episode of It’s Sew Easy and on my blog.
www.fashionsewingwithangelawolf.com
Join me …
Here is the full Schedule for the sew-along along with links to the tutorials and live Q&A on my blog:
1. Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping fabrics, patterns, and sizing

2. Episode 1402: Sewing the front placket
3. Episode 1404: Attaching the collar
4. Episode 1405: Sewing the placket on the sleeve
5. Episode 1406: Sewing the sleeves and side seams
6. Episode 1408: Sewing the cuffs
7. Episode 1409: Buttons and buttonholes
8. Episode 1413: Finishing the hem with a rolled hem
Use coupon code ITSSEWEASY10 for 10% off everything at

www.AngelaWolfPatterns.com
Refer to my blog for more sewing tip and tricks!
Join me … Cheers,
1
2
Upcycle sewing made simple.
IT’S SEW EASY

Series 1300
Upcycle Sewing:
Michelle Paganini,
Upcycle Guru &
Owner Paganoonoo
Upcycle (up-si-kel) To improve existing goods (such as clothing)

through the use of labor, materials, and creativity
Good for the planet, good for your budget!
In this episode we explore upcycling by transforming the sleeves on a dress shirt to ¾ length
with a contrasting cuff. This is a quick and simple method for creating a new look and instantly
gives men’s dress shirts a more feminine look. The cuff provides an opportunity for creative
exploration, using parts of other dress shirts or stash materials, perhaps even embellishing with
ribbon, trim or additional fabrics. This episode focuses on one method: Replacing a sleeve cuff
by creating a custom pattern.
Visit Paganoonoo’s Etsy Shop or www.paganoonoo.com to see more creative upcycle sewing ideas.
MATERIALS & SUPPLIES

INSTEAD OF FABRIC:
1 man’s or women’s dress shirt that fits the shoulders, bust,
and upper arms well, with no gaping or straining.
Fabric for the cuffs, harvested from additional men’s or women’s dress shirts, your stash
etc. 15” x 9” is generous for one cuff. Matching or different fabrics can be used.
SUPPLIES:
Thread, tape measure or ruler, irons and ironing boards, pins, seam ripper, sewing
machine, sharp sewing scissors, optional pinking shears, sleeve board
Instructions
Cut off the ends of the sleeves. Make the cut just above the sleeve
placket.
Measure the width on 1 side of the cut end: ___” x 2 = ___” (combined
width) +
1” (for seam allowances) = ____” (total width)
Page 1 of 2
Make a paper pattern. The long side is the width. The short side is the
depth ___” + .5” (for seam allowances) x 2 = ___” (both sides of cuff)
For example, a cuff for an 8” opening and a 3” depth would measure
17” by 7”, and be folded in half to measure 17” by 3.5”.
Unfold the cuff pattern and use it to harvest cuffs from other shirts or
a mix of flat fold fabrics. Optional: Lightly interface the cuffs.
Use iron-on interfacing or simply line the cuff with a second fabric.
Interface if desired.
Pin the short sides of the cuff together. Sew the short sides of the cuff
together using a ½” seam and press open.
Fold
Fold
Fold the cuff in half, right sides out, then press and pin.
Slip the cuff onto the sleeve, right side to right side.
Sew a ½” seam and press.

Turn the sleeve inside out.
Press the raw edges up towards the armhole.

Turn the sleeve right side out and press again.
Topstitch the just above the cuff, catching the turned-up

seam. Stitch a double row for stability if you would like.
Sew up these
Paganoonoo
designs!
Upcycle Sewing
Instructions for
sale here
Page 2 of 2
Gussets for Fit
Rebecca Kemp Brent
Gussets come and go with changing fashions, but they are a wonderful technique for your sewing
toolbox. Garments with closely fitted armholes or constricting sleeve styling (dolman or batwing sleeves,
for example) may need gussets to provide ease for comfortable movement, and they're also a great way
to add fabric while fitting upcycled garments.
Traditionally, gussets are made in a diamond or kite shape that tapers to nothing at each end. You might
also use a rectangle topped with a tapering triangle in a garment where the additional fabric falls all the
way to a hemmed edge, or round the gusset points to create an oval shape that eliminates sharply
angled seam intersections.
Here's an overview of the gusset-making process.
1. Draft a pattern.
Try on or measure the garment to determine how much additional fabric you'll need. The sample from
the show adds 3" to the armscye seam. (The pajama top adds a full 8" for a loose fit!)
Also decide how far into the garment you want to taper the extra fabric. This might be determined by
intersecting seams (as on the cosplay gown from the show) or factors such as keeping the gusset hidden
while wearing.
Use the measurements to draw a pair of intersecting lines at right angles, with the additional width (the
short line on our sample) centered on the perpendicular line. Connect the endpoints of the crossed lines
to create a diamond or other shape.
Add seam allowance as determined by the garment you're altering.
SEE ILLUSTRATION A
2. Choose the gusset fabric.
Ideally, you may have scraps of the garment fabric to use. If not, look for a lightweight fabric that
matches or blends into the garment fabric. Gussets are usually added at an inconspicuous area on the
garment, so an exact match may not be as necessary as you expect.
3. Cut the gussets from the fabric.
4. Prepare the garment.
Measure and mark the gusset length on the wrong side of the garment seam. Mark both sides of the
seam (e.g., the garment front and back pieces) so that the marks are always visible after the garment
pieces are separated.
Remove the seam in the gusset area, removing at least 1" of stitches past the marked endpoints.
Sometimes it is necessary to open an intersecting seam as well; for example, if the underarm and side
seams were sewn independently before the sleeve was inserted. If that's the case, open just a little of
the intersecting seam. Restitch the intersecting seam on each side of the opened gusset seam before
you insert the gusset, backstitching to secure the new seams.
5. Pin one half of the gusset to the garment, matching the widest point of the gusset to the intersecting
seam (or any mark you may have made for the widest addition, if there's not a seam there). Stitch the
gusset in place from one dot to the other as shown, backstitching at each end. Follow the seamline on
the garment rather than keeping a set seam allowance width. Pivot with the needle down at the
intermediate gusset corner.
SEE ILLUSTRATION B
6. Pin the second half of the gusset to the garment, matching the marks on the garment as originally
sewn. Sew the gusset to the garment as before. Stitch past the ends of the gusset to close the garment
seam completely.
7. Use a serger or overcasting stitch to finish the raw edges of the new seams. Press the gusset carefully.
Gussets for Fit
Sleeve end
A
3”
3” total
4”
Body end
Stitch first seam

between dots
Season 1402
• Shirt Dress Sewalong – Sewing the Front Placket
Part 2 Shirt Dress Sewalong: In this episode we press

and sew the front placket. For the full tutorial on my
blog click here.
Join me for the entire sewalong! Here is the full Schedule for the
sewalong along with links to the tutorials on my blog:
1. Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping fabrics,

patterns, and sizing
Convert Darts to Princess Seams
Supplies
• Cashmerette Upton Dress sewing pattern, or another two darted bodice sewing
pattern.
• Tracing paper, pencil, ruler.
About Cashmerette Patterns

• Cashmerette Patterns celebrates curves, confidence and limitless style. Created by a
plus size seamstress, our sewing patterns are made exclusively for sizes 12 - 28 and
cup sizes C - H. We believe in changing bodies and mindsets, rather than being told
we shoud change our bodies. We believe the notion that beauty can be measured in
numbers is way past its expiration date - and that we are undeniable proof. We design
modern, elegant sewing patterns that make you look amazing, just as you are. You
deserve a wardrobe that exudes personality and style, and you are just the person to
make it.
Want to Learn More Pattern Hacking?

• Our online video workshop “Pattern Hacking for Curves: 1 Top, 10 Ways” teaches you
the secrets of how pattern designers adapt a simple pattern to create lots of different
styles. Endlessly altering patterns to fit your curves can be frustrating, but using this
technique you only have to make your base pattern fit once – and then every variation
you create will fit you! Watch from your own home, as many times as you like - it never
expires!
Get 20% off the regular price using code “ITSSEWEASY” at checkout!
Convert Darts to Princess Seams
Alter the pattern pieces
• Draw line through the bust dart, and line through waist dart. Where they cross is the
bust apex.
• Mark armhole about 1/3 of the way up from the side seam.
• Draw a curved line using a French curve, from the armhole to the bust apex. Continue
two lines down from apex to either side of the waist dart.
• Create new notch markings across the curved line, including one at end of dart.
• Cut pieces apart: you now have a side princess seam piece and a middle princess seam
piece.
• Cut out dart on side princess seam piece. Snip into seam allowance at end of dart, cre-
ating a hinge. Swivel the dart closed and tape closed. Snip through the hinge to allow
to lay flat.
• Measure how far hinge has spread (at seam allowance).
• Cut across middle princess piece at the height of the dart notch. Spread piece apart by
the distance that the hinge has spread. Add tissue, tape and even out the edges.
• Add seam allowance onto the princess seam on both pieces.
Sew Princess Seams

• Cut 2 side princess pieces and 1 middle princess seam (on the fold). Snip notches.
• Pin 1 side to 1 middle, right sides together, with side piece underneath.
• Carefully sew seam, making sure there are no tucks.
• Finish seam allowance, and press towards center front.
• Repeat with second side.
“Accessorize Your Closet” – Designing with zippers for fashion over
function
By: Jane Monzures
Zippers have been on trend for many seasons now and you can
really add some great embellishments to your old clothes just by
adding a few zippers.
You’ll need:
Open and locking zippers
Sewing machine
Needle and thread
(IDEA 1 – exposed zipper front – T-Shirt)
To update an old t-shirt, first play around with the placement of the zipper. Try the bottom, off
the collar or up the side of the shirt.
To add a lapel zipper. Use a 4” locked zipper, pin it just off your collar and down the side of
your shirt towards your under arm.
Pin and Sew it in place.
Cut the fabric underneath the zipper teeth.
(IDEA 2 – exposed zipper back - Sweatshirt)
Adding a zipper to an old sweatshirt can give it a new life, but first, you can give it a distress look
simply by bleaching it.
Next, pin a locked zipper up the back of your sweatshirt, make sure the opening of the zipper is
at the bottom back of the shirt.
Pin and Sew it in place.
Cut the fabric below the zipper teeth.
(IDEA 3 – Deconstructed zipper for embellishment – Shirt embellish)
Deconstruct a zipper and use it as décor rather than a closure.

To do this, use a separating zipper; unzip it all the way so you have two pieces,
Cut the tops and bottoms off removing the pull.
To stop the edges from fraying use a lighter to melt the edges but be very careful with this – it’s
just a quick heat and off the flame.
Put the shirt on a mannequin, and pin your zipper teeth on in an interesting pattern.
Using the zipper foot, sew on the zippers.
(IDEA 4 – Deconstructed zippers to make jewelry - Flowers)
Zippers can actually make beautiful floral embellishments.

To do this, unzip a separating zipper all the way so you have two pieces; Cut the tops and
bottoms off removing the pull, to stop the edges from fraying burn the edges with a small flame.
Cut the zipper halves into 2-3” strips, you can sew or glue them into loops. Continue to add
more and more loops and hands stitch (or glue) together to create a flower.
Add a pin to the back to make a brooch or add them to a chain to make a statement necklace.
It’s easy to embellish your closet when you use zippers for function over fashion.
Get in touch with Jane:

Contact Jane:
http://www.janemonzures.com/contact/
Facebook, Twitter, Instagram: @JaneMonzures
YouTube: DIYbyJANE
Jane Monzures is a crafter with contagious enthusiasm, with a rip-it-apart and remake it sense
of humor, and a bigger is better attitude all on the rocks with a twist and olives!
Jane coined the term “UpCrafting” as her passion to refashion, refurbish, recreate and reuse
sweeps the nation. She was repurposing before repurposing was cool. Jane helps you find your
creativity, showing you how to improve your life thru UpCrafting, she enjoys sharing savvy DIY
trends, back-to-the-basics crafting tips, money-saving Home Ec hacks, and aims to inspire
everyone to make something.
“Crafting, sewing, creating and designing are lifelong passions. I see UpCrafting opportunities
everywhere: the thrift store, closets, attics, and storage rooms...anywhere old stuff lurks I’ll grab
it and give it a new life. My mission is to inspire people who don't typically craft, to make
something because there is no better satisfaction than when you do-it- yourself.”
Jane is a national television and radio personality. She is a lifestyle host on WGN-TV Living
Healthy Chicago and on WGN- Radio, and is the host of Creative Living on Yurview TV. She
has been featured as a DIY UpCrafting expert on NBC’s TODAY show, Create & Craft TV USA,
FOX's Good Day Live, ABC’s Windy City Live, WCIU’s You & Me This Morning, FOX 17
Morning Mix Grand Rapids, Peachtree TV Atlanta, and ENJOY Magazine.
This is no “Plain Jane”; she is the crafty, modern domestic diva who is clever and inventive in all
aspects of her life. See more great UpCrafting ideas from Jane at www.DIYbyJane.com and
connect with her on FACEBOOK, TWITTER and INSTAGRAM @JaneMonzures and Subscribe
to her YouTube Channel DIYbyJaneMonzures
As Seen on It’s Sew Easy
Style tip: Organize your outfits for travel or storage at home with a custom covered hanger.
cover.
Presented by: Joanne Banko

www.letsgosew.com
A padded hanger cover is handy for travel or at home in your

closet. It keeps your best clothing from the dreaded “hanger
bump” and is especially nice for expanding the use of wire hangers
that come from the dry cleaner. Embellish with embroidery,
decorative stitches, or both! A monogram is a nice addition too.
Personalized hanger covers make great gifts for family and friends!
Basic Instructions for creating a simple hanger cover from pre-quilted fabric:
Step 1. Trace the hanger onto plain paper, adding ½-inch around outside edges and at least 2-inches at
the bottom of the hanger. *See Figure #1. Use pattern to cut a rectangular piece of fabric with a fold-
line at top of hanger. Mark center at the top and stitch a buttonhole measuring approximately 1-inch long
to create top opening. *See Figure #2.
Figure #1 Figure #2
1
Step 2. You can add embroidery, decorative stitches, or any other form of embellishment while the piece
is flat. Personalize the front with a monogram, name, or special message for a special event if desired.
Next, place the pattern back over the piece and cut out the hanger cover, matching the center of the
pattern to the center of the buttonhole.
Step 3. Finish the bottom edge with a hem or add trim such as lace. With right sides together, sew or
serge the hanger cover together using a ¼-inch seam allowance. Turn right sides out and press. You are
finished! Enjoy!
Tip: Consider making hanger covers to coordinate with special outfits or special occasions.
Instructions for the following three hanger covers are available to download at the
Brothersews website. Click on the individual links below:
 Children's Custom Hanger Cover

 Custom Hanger Cover
 Satin Hanger Cover for the Bride
Additional Resources:
 Visit me at my Sewing and Embroidery website www.letsgosew.com. You’ll find online lessons,
videos, free downloads, and lots of sewing fun at letsgosew.com! I would love to hear your
thoughts, comments, and answer any questions you may have.
 Find me on Facebook www.facebook.com/letsgosew/
 Be sure to visit the Official Brother Blog for even more ideas, projects, and information!
Happy Sewing!
Let’s stay in touch! I’d love to help you make the most of your
sewing machine!
CLICK HERE to add your name to the letsgosew.com email list

for timely tips, tricks, and sewing news.
You’ll be the first to know about new blog posts and my weekly
preview of the online It’s Sew Easy TV show.
2
Jessica Stewart- Izzy & Ivy Designs
More Fabric for More Fun- how to mix and match fabric for more interest
So Many Fabrics!
I like to start with an eye catching print and go from there. What colors are popular?
What season am I sewing for? Who am I sewing for? These are all important questions
to think about. Once you decide on that, the rest is fun!
People always ask how I choose my fabrics. I’ll tell you a little secret. I start with the
print I love, and then my next step is to look at the coordinating prints that the fabric
company has released in that line. Sometimes you’ll have 30 or more coordinates!
You can choose prints that create a mono-chromatic look, or choose ones that bring
out a color or motif hidden in your main print. I like to use the main print as my largest
piece in the garment and then choose accents from there.
You can also choose fabrics that have shared colors but that might be from another
line of fabric. Usually you will find the closest matches from the same manufacturer,
but I have made many matches across fabric company lines. They do play well
together! This is definitely a more bold approach and requires some risk taking, but if
you are going for that boutique look, especially in children’s garments, the end result
is stunning.
I love to shop in my local fabric stores and be able to feel the quality of the fabric
and see the colors in person, but sometimes that’s not an option. Shopping online is a
great way to have access to thousands of fabrics and I’m going to show you a fun
way to plan those projects.
We’re going to make digital collages with the fabric so you can play around with
placement and color, and get a more solid view of what your end result will look like.
First, you’ll need JPEG images of the fabric you would like to use. Sometimes you can
get those from the manufacturer’s website as a downloadable zip file. If it’s not
available, be sure to contact them and get permission before saving images to your
computer or phone. Next, use your favorite collage software or website and load
your swatches. I like to use www.picmonkey.com. The basic site is free to use, and
you can do a whole lot more than just collages. Choose “collage” for your project
and it will open up a new collage. You can adjust the width and length of your
collage, as well as how many sections you have. Next, choose “add images” and
select the files you want to use in your collage. I like to add a picture of the garment
I’m going to sew as well. Now you can play! Mix and match to your heart’s content. I
will say this can become addictive and you will find yourself coming up with all kinds
of different combinations. In this one, I’ve already made a dress in the greens and
blues, but I want to see what it will look like in the purples and blues, with a little more
off-white mixed it. I will note that this is not an exact science, as digital images and
screens can vary a bit from the actual color of the fabric, and the scale of the fabric
can get thrown off some as you place your swatches in the collage. But overall, this is
a great way to plan your project. When you’re finished, save (export) your project
and you’re ready to sew!
Needs More Fabric!
Sometimes you want to add more fabric than the garment seems to allow. I’m going
to show how to add stripwork to the tier on this dress. This can work with any gathered
tier or ruffle on a garment, as well as with something that uses a pattern piece. You’ll
have to adjust your math to accommodate that, but this will give you a start.
Instructions for Child’s Dress:

You will need: a pattern and fabric, notions, etc. required for the project plus
additional fabric for stripwork, needle, thread, iron, ironing board, and scissors.
This dress has a 2 panel tier attached at the bottom. The dimensions of each piece
are 38” wide. Since it’s gathered and I don’t have to be exact, I can round up to
make cutting easier. I’m going to round that up to 40”, then divide by 4 to get 10”
pieces. The seam allowance on this pattern is ½”, so I’ll bump that up to 11”. I will
need 4 pieces for the front and 4 pieces for the back.
1. Arrange your fabric in the way that you would like to see it on the garment. Take
the first 2 pieces and stack them right sides together, then sew and finish the seam.
Press the seam to one side and topstitch. You now have a strip. Continue this process
until you have multiple strips (in this case 4).
2. Take 2 strips, stack them right sides together, then sew another seam. Finish the
seam, press to one side, and topstitch. Repeat with the remainder of your strips. You
should now have 2 larger strips of fabric with 4 pieces each.
3. Take the 2 large strips, right sides together, and sew the seam. Finish the seam,
press to one side, and topstitch. You are almost there!
4. Match the short ends, right sides together, to create a loop. Sew and finish the
seam, then press to one side, and topstitch. You are now ready to add your tier to
the dress and continue on as the pattern instructs.
Patterns featured- Izzy & Ivy Designs Brooklyn’s Boho Dress (PDF and paper)
Fabric- Ashtyn, Hayden, and Zola for Ink & Arrow Fabrics
Foam Armor Pauldron with Rivets
by Cheryl Sleboda of Sew Much Cosplay™
Materials needed:
- Two sheets of 2 mm EVA foam that are 24” x 24” such as Hero Foam by Sew Much Cosplay™
- Contact cement
- Heat Gun
- Craft paint
- Template for Armor pieces
- 2 Strips of fabric about 20 inches long and 4 inches wide
- Matching thread
- Scissors
- Dritz Double-Cap Rivets in Brushed Brass
- Dritz Double-Cap Rivet Setting Tool
- Dritz Adjustable Slide Buckles in antique brass
- Sewing machine with ¼ inch patchwork foot attached
- Hard surface on which to pound in your rivets, preferably covered with a cutting mat
- Rubber mallet
Creating the foam armor:
1. Trace the templates onto the foam and cut out all of your pieces. Using the contact cement,
glue your trim pieces to the body pieces and let dry. Contact cement needs to dry slightly
before pressing it to the opposite surface, and once it sticks, it’s stuck, so be careful.
2. On the top shoulder piece, fold over the dart and glue together to form the curve for the
shoulder. Once dry, you could sand (or Dremel) the seam so it’s less apparent.
3. Using the heat gun, and holding it about 8 inches away from the foam, gently heat the pieces
and form a soft curve so the pieces are not flat.
4. Once cooled, your armor may be painted. I used a copper spray paint, and black craft paint
inside the trim to make it stand out.
5. Once your paint is dry, you can poke a hole in the corners (see pattern pieces for placement), so
that you can insert your rivet. GENTLY tap the rivet into place with the tool, but in this case we
do not want to close the rivet fully, so the armor can move freely.
Creating the strap:
1. Fold each strip of fabric in half, wrong sides together, and then fold each side in toward the
middle, forming a strip about 1 inch wide.
2. At your sewing machine, sew along the length of the strip along the open end. Once at the
bottom, sew down the other side, so you have nice even seams on both sides, and your strap
doesn’t poof up.
3. Fold one end over the adjustable slide buckle’s center bar on one of the straps, and stitch to
enclose the buckle. You do not need to do this to the other end.
4. Using only the strap that doesn’t have the buckle, using the cutter in the Rivet setting toolkit,
and on a hard and protected surface (this will mar your table), cut a hole in the center of the
strap about every inch or so. Leave about 3 inches at one end without holes. After you have cut
your holes, insert your rivets. Choose one side of the strap to be the “right” side. The male end
should be on the right side and match up the female ends on the wrong side of the fabric. Using
the setter, pound in your rivets using your rubber mallet.
5. Determine which side of the armor you want to face forward by determining which shoulder
you will place it on. The side facing forward is the side that gets the riveted strap. Cut a hole in
the strap on top of the end that was left without rivets and match it up with the strap hole on
the armor piece (See pattern for placement). GENTLY tap the rivet into place with the tool, but
in this case we do not want to close the rivet fully, so the armor can move freely. Do the same
with the buckle strap, which should be on the backside of the armor.
To wear, place the armor on the shoulder, and gently pull the buckle end towards the front of the body
under the armpit. Insert the front strap and adjust over the rivets until it’s fit. The excess front strap
can be tucked into the back strap, and eventually trimmed after adjusting to wearing it.
For more information on Cosplay Armor Building, please visit
Sew Much Cosplay™
www.sewmuchcosplay.com
Season 1404
• Shirt Dress Sewalong - Attach the collar band to the shirt

Part 3 Shirt Dress Sewalong: In this episode we sew the

collar, collar band and attach the collar. For the full
tutorial on my blog click here.
Join me for the entire sewalong! Here is the full Schedule for the sewalong
along with links to the tutorials on my blog:
1. Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping fabrics, patterns,

and sizing
TANK TOP PATTERN HACKS
Supplies
• Cashmerette Springfield Top Pattern (or a similar tank top pattern)
• Tracing paper and pencil
• Ruler and French curve
• For button front/back: 5 buttons and 1 inch wide strip of interfacing
About Cashmerette Patterns

• Cashmerette Patterns celebrates curves, confidence and limitless style. Created by a
plus size seamstress, our sewing patterns are made exclusively for sizes 12 - 28 and
cup sizes C - H. We believe in changing bodies and mindsets, rather than being told
we shoud change our bodies. We believe the notion that beauty can be measured in
numbers is way past its expiration date - and that we are undeniable proof. We design
modern, elegant sewing patterns that make you look amazing, just as you are. You
deserve a wardrobe that exudes personality and style, and you are just the person to
make it.
Want to Learn More Pattern Hacking?

• Our online video workshop “Pattern Hacking for Curves: 1 Top, 10 Ways” teaches you
the secrets of how pattern designers adapt a simple pattern to create lots of different
styles. Endlessly altering patterns to fit your curves can be frustrating, but using this
technique you only have to make your base pattern fit once – and then every variation
you create will fit you! Watch from your own home, as many times as you like - it never
expires!
Get 20% off the regular price using code “ITSSEWEASY” at checkout!
BUTTON FRONT/BACK HACK
Alter the pattern pieces

A) Button front
• On the tank top front piece, draw a line 1/2” either side of the Center Front.
• Draw a line to extend a further 1”
• Draw a final line to extend a further 1/2”
B) Button back
• If your tank top doesn’t have a yoke, draw a line for the yoke, and separate the back
into two pieces, adding seam allowance to both.
• On the bottom back piece, draw a line 1/2” either side of the Center Back.
• Draw a line to extend a further 1”
• Draw a final line to extend a further 1/2”
BUTTON BACK HACK
Sew Button Back

• Cut two lower backs and one yoke. Mark pattern lines on the lower backs using chalk.
• Apply a strip of interfacing down the one inch wide marking, on the right side of each
piece.
• On each lower back, fold outer 1/2” line to the right side. Fold again on the 1” line.
• Edgstitch both sides of button bands, at around 1/8” from the edge (use an edgestitch
foot for the best result!)
• Sew 5 button holes on the right hand side back.
• Sew lower backs to the yoke, overlapping the button bands. Make sure the back with
the buttonholes will be the outer layer when worn. Finish seam allowance and press up.
• Mark button placement through buttonholes, then sew buttons to left hand side back.
• Complete construction of the tank top
BUTTON FRONT HACK
Sew Button Front

• Cut two fronts. Mark pattern lines using chalk.
• Apply a strip of interfacing down the one inch wide marking, on the right side of each
piece.
• Fold outer 1/2” line to the right side. Fold again on the 1” line.
• Edgstitch both sides of button bands, at around 1/8” from the edge (use an edgestitch
foot for the best result!)
• Sew 7 button holes on the right hand side back.
• Mark button placement through buttonholes, then sew buttons to left hand side back.
• Complete construction of the tank top
TULIP BACK HACK
Alter Pattern Pieces

• Trace a full lower back (i.e. not on the half)
• Draw a straight line from 3 inches along the hem, to the top corner.
• Use a French curve to transform it to a curve.
• Cut new pattern piece.
TULIP BACK HACK
Sew Tulip Back

• Sew front darts
• Sew lower back pieces to front at side seams
• Hem the full back hem, starting at one end of the back curve, going across bottom of
front, and then up other back curve.
• Sew yoke to shoulders.
• Fold backs so one is on top of the other, and the tops are even. Baste.
• Sew yoke to lower backs.
• Complete tank by binding neckline and armholes.
Season 1405
• Shirt Dress Sewalong - Sewing the Sleeve Placket


sleeve placket. For the full tutorial on my blog click
here.
Join me for the entire sewalong! Here is the full Schedule for the
sewalong along with links to the tutorials on my blog:
1. Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping fabrics,

patterns, and sizing
As Seen on It’s Sew Easy Public Television – Series 1400
Couched Collar for Faux Suede Coat

Add creative couching to a collar for a stunning textured effect!

www.letsgosew.com
Materials and supplies featured in this segment:
 Featured machine is the Brother XV8550D Dream Machine2 with the included MuVit™ Digital Dual
Feed System and Couching Foot for use with MuVit™ Digital Dual Feed System.
 Thread for couching – I used decorative embroidery thread.
 Medium weight yarn. I used Lion Brand Heartland Tweed 4 oz., size No.4 yarn.
 Coat pattern with large collar – featured pattern is New Look 6416 from Simplicity® Pattern Co.
 Fabric and notions as per pattern, including fusible interfacing such as fine fusible tricot or knitted
bias type interfacing for collar.
Note: I used Shannon Fabrics Cuddle® Suede Fabric, (color - charcoal) for this coat. Visit my website,
www.letsgosew.com and download a free Faux Suede Fabric Tip Sheet to help you sew this luxurious
fabric.
A simple definition of couching is this - Placing trim on the fabric surface and anchoring it in place
with stitches that secure trim to fabric. Couching can be easily added to accent collars, cuffs, or even an
entire garment. The Brother Dual Feed foot is featured in this project. With the added couching accessory
this helps feed both fabric and yarn smoothly at the same time. It’s especially helpful for couching on the
faux suede. You’ll enjoy creating fabric surface embellishments using yarn and decorative cords with this
easy to use, dual feed couching foot. Designed for use with the MuVit™ Dual Feed Attachment, it’s ideal
for couching on difficult fabrics. The included yarn threader helps feed your yarn into the couching foot
with ease, and the included yarn guides help make this technique quick and easy. Brother Accessory
SA200 is an option for some additional machine models. Note: Visit www.letsgosew.com to learn about
other accessory options you can use for couching.
1
Basic Instructions for creating the couched collar:
Step 1. Cut collars using pattern and apply interfacing to the wrong side. Prepare a few remnant pieces of
fabric with interfacing for testing stitches. Determine area where main portion of top-side of collar rolls to
the right side and mark so you can be sure to begin stitching in this area. I used a pin and removed it just
before stitching. Some patterns have the “roll line” of the collar marked but you can usually see where the
collar straightens out or narrows on pattern piece.
Tip: Read the manual for detailed instructions on setting up

the couching attachment. I like to reel off small amounts at
a time to keep yarn from getting tangled. Watch the yarn
to be sure it is reeling off freely as you stitch.
Step 2. Feed yarn into cording hole and test various stitches on fabric remnants. Experiment with
different widths and lengths from allowable stitches, selecting a stitch that travels from right to left. Make
sure yarn is anchored properly and fabric stays smooth. Adjust dual feed settings if necessary. Suitable
stitches include a serpentine stitch, feather stitch, rick rack stitch, and a zigzag. I used stitch No.2-13.
Tip: Try different stitches and thread

combinations until you find something
you like. Keep in mind that a high
contrast thread makes the stitch more
prominent, while thread that blends with
the yarn makes the yarn more prominent.
Step 3. When you’re happy with your test results couch across the collar from end to end meandering and
filling in the area as desired. When you reach each end you can pivot to continue or drag the yarn away
from the fabric and begin again.
2
Feel free to mark off specific stitching lines if you want a more controlled couched effect. I chose a
diagonal route and stitched in a free form style.
Tip: If you stay with a free form

style of stitching you won’t have
to be concerned with making
the two collars match.
Step 4. Lightly press the collars when finished and trim excess tails of thread. Complete your garment
using the pattern directions. Enjoy!
Let’s stay in touch!
I’d love to help you make the most of your sewing machine!
CLICK HERE to add your name to the letsgosew.com email list for
timely tips, tricks, and sewing news.
You’ll be the first to know about new blog posts and my weekly
preview of the online It’s Sew Easy TV show.
videos, free downloads, and lots of sewing fun at letsgosew.com!
 Be sure to visit the Official Brother Blog for more ideas, projects, and information, including an
additional project featuring couched accents on a monogrammed tech cover.
Happy Sewing!
3
Season 1406.1
• DIY: Upcycle Sweater Project

I don’t know about you, but I have a stash of sweaters that I can’t quite get rid of. They
tend to move from drawer to drawer without much wear. Maybe they just need an update!
This episode features an easy DIY upcycle project, taking the sleeves from a sweater and
attaching them to an outdated fleece jacket. Super cute for winter 😊
CLICK HERE for the full tutorial and replay of the episode on my blog.
Season 1406.2
• Shirt Dress Sewalong - Sew the Body of the Garment


sleeve and body of the garment. For the full tutorial on my
blog click here.
Join me for the entire sewalong! Here is the full Schedule for the sewalong
along with links to the tutorials on my blog:
1. Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping fabrics, patterns,

and sizing
Light and Breezy Kimono Style Over blouse

www.letsgosew.com
Create a New Look with this lightweight kimono style over blouse. Use scarves rescued from your closet as
“fabric” or choose a breezy lightweight fabric. You’ll have a new look to top off many different outfits. I
used Shannon Fabrics Embrace cotton for two of the featured blouses. Visit my website,
www.letsgosew.com to download a Free Sewing with Double Gauze Fabric Tip Sheet to help you sew
this beautiful fabric. I used a serger to finish all raw edges of the garments shown in this segment but
you’ll find alternative ideas for seam and hem finishes in the tip sheet.
Blouse on the left is cut from a large scarf with pattern hemline for sleeves and front/back bottom hem
placed along finished edge of scarf. Blouse on the right is made from Shannon Fabrics Embrace cotton
fabric with 3-inch Venice style lace trim on sleeves and bottom hem. Instructions for lace application are
included below.
1
General instructions for creating a similar blouse:
Choose a kimono style pattern with an open front and cut-on or boxy sleeves. Patterns featured here are
New Look SO805/6378 (left) and Simplicity 8172 (right).
If you are using a scarf you can finish off the center front and neck opening with bias trim. Sew sleeve and
side seams with the finished hems matching. I followed most of the basic pattern directions for the blouse
made from double gauze fabric, finishing the front and neck opening with 1-inch single fold bias trim using
the method described and shown below:
1. Stay stitch close to the raw edge.

2. Press bias binding flat.
3. Stitch binding to right side of front using a ¼-inch seam allowance, shaping it carefully around the
back neck.
4. Turn binding to the wrong side and press under raw edge of tape to finish at approximately ½-inch
wide.
5. Topstitch from the right side.
Press tape open - stitch to right side – turn to wrong side and press under – topstitch from the right side:
2
For a neat and clean finish on both the right and wrong side I used a method slightly different from the
pattern instructions. Here’s how I finished the sleeves and bottom hem with lace:
Serge finish raw edges using thread that blends well with the fabric. Turn and press a ½-inch hem
allowance to the right side of the garment. I like to use a Dritz metal hem gauge for pressing straight
hems. Pin lace in place.
To finish, select a wide and long triple (three-step) zigzag stitch, stitching with lace facing up.
3
“UpCraft Your T-Shirts” - Deconstruct a t-shirt to create an apron
By: Jane Monzures
Are too many t-shirts taking over your dressers and closets? Well it’s
time to give them a new life and repurpose them into a cook ready apron.
You’ll Need:
3 t-shirts with large printed images on the fronts or backs of each shirt
1 yard of jersey knit fabric
2 yards of Twill Tape Apparel Trim
((STEP 1 – CUTTING))
First, deconstruct the t-shirts:

Using a rotary cutter and mat, cut around the armholes, and then use a
straightedge to cut across the neckline.
Using regular fabric scissors cut up the center back to the neck.
Lay the shirt out flat and cut across the top back quarters to the bottom of the open armhole (your
shirt will have a plateau shape to it now).
Leave the top shirt as is; we’ll cut that later using a pattern.
On the bottom two shirts of the apron and on the front side, cut down the sides of the printed
image leaving enough space to turn the edges under, and cut across creating an even L shape
design.
Once you cut 2 shirts the same you're ready to pin them together.
((STEP 2 – PIN & SEW))
Lay your middle shirt flat and line the 3rd shirt (or the bottom shirt) underneath the printed image on
the middle shirt.
Fold the top and the sides in and pin that in place.
Place the bottom two shirts on top of the first shirt be sure to fold the edges under, and pin
together.
Now it’s time to head to the sewing machine.
Top stitch all the shirts together.
If you want to add pockets leave the top or sides of the 3rd shirt open.
((STEP 3 – PATTERN/PIN TOGETHER/SEW))
Now that you have all 3 shirts sewn together, cut out a piece of backing fabric just something out of
cotton or jersey knit; soft and easy to wash.
To create the pattern, use an apron that you like the shape of and draw around it to create the size
and shape of a pattern.
A quick DIY tip, use wrapping paper with grid lines.
Cut out your back piece. Using the same pattern, cut your T-shirts into the pattern.
With right sides together add in your drawstrings at the neck and to the sides of the pattern.
Measure where you want the drawstrings to hit at the sides, 13”-14” from the top of the apron
works. Be sure the ties are inside of the two pieces of fabric. Pin and sew.
((STEP 4 - SEW))
Stitch all the way around leaving a 3” opening at the bottom; clip your corners.
Through the opening at the bottom, turn your garment right side out.
Pin flat and top stitch all the way around to get a nice edge!
There you have it, UpCrafted t-shirts into a stylish apron and something special to you! And by the
way, these make great gifts; instead of using sports t-shirts use shirts from your schools, or states
you lived in, or anything meaningful to create a “this is your” life apron.

Contact Jane:
YouTube: DIYbyJANE
Jane Monzures is a crafter with contagious enthusiasm, with a rip-it-apart and remake it sense of
humor, and a bigger is better attitude all on the rocks with a twist and olives!
sweeps the nation. She was repurposing before repurposing was cool. Jane helps you find your
creativity, showing you how to improve your life thru UpCrafting, she enjoys sharing savvy DIY
trends, back-to-the-basics crafting tips, money-saving Home Ec hacks, and aims to inspire
everyone to make something.
everywhere: the thrift store, closets, attics, and storage rooms...anywhere old stuff lurks I’ll grab it
and give it a new life. My mission is to inspire people who don't typically craft, to make something
because there is no better satisfaction than when you do-it- yourself.”
Healthy Chicago and on WGN- Radio, and is the host of Creative Living on Yurview TV. She has
been featured as a DIY UpCrafting expert on NBC’s TODAY show, Create & Craft TV USA, FOX's
Good Day Live, ABC’s Windy City Live, WCIU’s You & Me This Morning, FOX 17 Morning Mix
Grand Rapids, Peachtree TV Atlanta, and ENJOY Magazine.
This is no “Plain Jane”; she is the crafty, modern domestic diva who is clever and inventive in all
aspects of her life. See more great UpCrafting ideas from Jane at www.DIYbyJane.com and
connect with her on FACEBOOK, TWITTER and INSTAGRAM @JaneMonzures and Subscribe to
her YouTube Channel DIYbyJaneMonzures
Bell Sleeve Top from T-Shirt – Laura Pifer
Supplies:
• ShirtSpace T-shirt: Ice Blue
• Shears
• Thread
• Sewing machine
Instructions for this project may be found at:

http://www.trashtocouture.com/2017/05/diy-bell-cuff-top-from-t-shirt.html
ShirtSpace T-shirt may be found at:

https://www.shirtspace.com/product/5061-next-level-6610-ladies-cvc-crew-
tee?variant_id=169252
****Use code Laura10 for 10% off*****
Project was designed by Laura of www.TrashtoCouture.com
IG account: @Shirtspace
In collaboration with Shirtspace.com

Machine Embroidery for Ready-Made Garments
Add machine embroidery to ready-mades and elevate plain garments to boutique style status!

www.letsgosew.com
First a little background - It’s been more than two decades since I purchased my first embroidery
machine. To this very day I still love to watch the hoop “dance” and never tire of watching the machine
work its magic. The tickity-tick sound it makes as the needle travels to stitch out my creations is music to
my ears! Perhaps you feel the same way! Whether you’re new to embroidery, just interested in starting, or
already have experience, this show is designed to give you guidelines for planning, preparation, and
placement, with the goal of embroidering ready-mades you can be proud to wear or give to others.
Tips for adding machine embroidery to ready-made garments:
Featured machine in this segment is the Brother XV8550D Dream Machine2. This is a top of the line model
and loaded with special features. However, you may have noticed while watching that I did not take
advantage of special machine features while embroidering. If you have built in “toots and whistles” by all
means use them! In this show I wanted both beginners and more seasoned stitchers to know that they
could experience quality results by following basic guidelines on any machine, from entry-level to top of
the line. Below are some basic tips to guide you in adding embroidery to existing garments:
1
 Plan your embroidery carefully, not just where and how you will place designs but also matching
the size and density of designs to compliment the weight of your garment.
 “It’s best to test!” I dig into my stash or purchase a small amount of fabric yardage that’s as close
as possible to my ready-made and test the design and stabilizer combination before embellishing
my actual garment. Of course if you have a similar garment you can use for a test that works too.
 Denim is ideal for many embroidery designs, usually needing only a layer or two of tear-away, or a
layer of wash-away stabilizer on the back to achieve good results. Jean jacket backs are a great
canvas for added embroidery. Steer clear of bulky seams and consider adding trim to compliment
the design.
 If possible, pre-wash garments before embroidering. This takes care of any shrinkage issues and
eliminates excess dye.
 Stock up on stabilizers. This subject is too big to cover in one short show but keep these general
rules in mind: Knits and thin fabrics benefit from a stabilizer that is temporarily or permanently
bonded to the fabric. Tear-away or wash-away generally works well for stable woven fabrics. Avoid
hooping stiff tear-away with your garment. Use a medium weight stabilizer instead, or consider
“floating” the tear-away under the hoop. Any fabric with nap or texture requires a water-soluble or
iron-away topper to keep stitches from sinking in and getting lost in the fabric.
 Use the smallest hoop possible, whenever possible, and you will have better registration with your
designs.
 For ease in embroidering choose garments that can open up perfectly flat. However, don’t let lined
garments stop you from adding embroidery. Carefully open up lining as much as needed to
establish a generous flat area, and then either hoop traditionally or use wash-away or tear-away
sticky stabilizer to temporarily hold fabric in place. Clip or tape excess fabric to keep it out of the
way while stitching.
 If you have a piece that is impossible to hoop, embroider on a sheer or complimentary fabric, and
then trim, treat with seam sealant if necessary, and use hand or machine stitches to apply to your
piece as an appliqué. If sewing is not possible select suitable fabric glue and glue in place.
 Design templates make embroidery easier and very accurate. Wrapped in Embroidery by Joanne
Banko contains valuable embroidery tips, including needle, thread, and stabilizer information, plus
instructions for proper hooping and methods for perfect placement of design motifs.
2
Refashioned Men’s Shirt to Bomber Jacket – Laura Pifer
Supplies:
• Organic Cotton Plus Rib Knit
• Men’s shirt
• Coats & Clark 20”-22” zipper
• Coats & Clark coordinating thread
Instructions may be found at:

http://www.trashtocouture.com/2017/08/diy-button-down-to-bomber-
jacket.html
Fabric may be found at:

https://organiccottonplus.com/products/baby-rib-56-black
****Use Code seweasy10 at checkout to save 10% on all rib knits****
IG account: @OrganicCottonPlus
Season 1408.2
• Shirt Dress Sewalong - Sew the Cuff

Part 6 Shirt Dress Sewalong: In this episode we sew the cuffs. For the full tutorial on my
blog click here.
Join me for the entire sewalong! Here is the full Schedule for the sewalong along with links to the tutorials on my
blog:
1. Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping fabrics, patterns, and sizing

Season 1408.3
• Square Sweater

Last season I showed how to sew a circle sweater, also known as my Maria Sweater Pattern.
This season I show a draping lesson for a square sweater. This is such an easy sweater to
sew, not the mention the style is super cute 😊
This episode also features the new Eloflex stretch thread by Coats & Clark, adjusting the
pressure foot pressure on the Brother Dream Machine, and a narrow overlock hem finish.
CLICK HERE for the full tutorial on my blog.

Make a simple soft belt to accent existing garments or top off a custom made garment.

CLICK HERE to add your name to the www.letsgosew.com
letsgosew.com email list for timely tips, tricks,
and sewing news.
You’ll be the first to know about new blog

posts and weekly previews of the online It’s
Sew Easy TV show.
Belts are one of the best ways to accessorize and pull together a fashion forward look. Options
include a simple belt made with decorative elastic, a soft suede style with machine-stitched
eyelets, or even an embroidered belt cinched with D-rings. There are so many possibilities!
Denim dress is a pre-purchased garment. Faux suede wrap is a featured garment from
the book titled Wrapped in Embroidery by Joanne Banko. Instructions for making this
wrap are found on the CD included with the book. CLICK HERE for more information.
1
 Featured machine is the Brother XV8550D Dream Machine2. Any machine with or without a built in
eyelet stitch can be used for this project. See options included in the following instructions.
 Specific supplies for faux suede fabric belt with machine stitched eyelets:
o Shannon Fabrics Cuddle® Suede Fabric is ideal for this soft suede belt. Visit my website,
www.letsgosew.com to download a free Faux Suede Fabric Tip Sheet to help you sew
this luxurious fabric.
o Fine fusible tricot interfacing.
o Pattern tracing cloth or paper for creating a pattern.
o Tape measure for measuring length of belt.
o Hand sewing needle and thread.
o Water-soluble stabilizer – optional but helpful for stitching eyelets.
o Non-stick presser foot – optional but helpful for topstitching faux suede.
 Dritz Notions, including the following for various belt styles:

o D-rings
o Fashion buckles
o Decorative wide elastic
o Eyelet Setter and Eyelets
 For the elastic belt you will need a decorative buckle. Use snaps or hook and loop tape if you want
to remove the buckle for laundering.
Basic Instructions for creating elastic belt shown on denim dress:
Wrap elastic around your waist to determine a comfortable length. Add 1-2-inches for finishing the ends
and then subtract the size of the buckle from end to end since this will add to the length. If desired, apply
snaps or hook and loop tape to each end. As an alternative you can turn under the ends and whipstitch to
secure by hand or use an adjustable zipper foot to stitch close to the buckle, securing the elastic in the
process.
Basic Instructions for creating soft suede belt with machine stitched eyelets:
Determine width of belt as desired and add 1-inch for seam allowance. Wrap a tape measure around your
waist to determine length and add 8-inches for an overlap. If you are making a belt to go over a bulky
garment like the suede wrap featured on the show you will want to take the waist measurement over the
garment. Tip: If you have a ready-made belt you can use it for both measurements, and also to decide on
eyelet placement.
Cut a belt pattern from paper or tracing cloth using your measurements for width and length. Shape the
eyelet end of the belt as desired or leave it straight. I chose to create a slightly pointed end. In the rest of
these instructions this will be referred to as the shaped end. Use the pattern to cut two strips of fabric for
the belt. Cut a matching strip of fusible interfacing, having seam allowance trimmed away on interfacing.
Fuse interfacing to wrong side of front belt piece.
2
For a designer look select a stitch that is more prominent than a
standard straight stitch and then lengthen the stitch length. Tip: I prefer
to use decorative embroidery thread for added sheen when topstitching.
Topstitch evenly spaced lines as desired on the front piece. Tip: I like to use a non-stick foot for this as it
easily glides across the faux suede. See examples of right and wrong side below:
Place front and back right sides together and sew using a 1/2-inch seam allowance, sewing each long
edge along with the shaped end, leaving the straight short (buckle) end open for turning. Trim seam
allowance to ¼-inch, turn and press using an iron shoe or press cloth. Overcast the open end.
3
Set up machine for sewing eyelet stitch. Beginning 4-inches from the shaped end, sew 4-6 eyelets spaced
one inch apart along center of belt. Add more or less eyelets to suit your garment and your waist.
Tip: Be sure to stitch a sample eyelet first to see if any settings need to be changed. It’s a good idea to
use a water-soluble topper on the suede. You can mark the eyelet position with a water-soluble marker
and wash everything away before adding the buckle.
To create a hole for the prong on the belt stitch another eyelet at the opposite end, having the eyelet
centered ½-inch from the short end. Tip: As an alternative you can use metal eyelets and stitch a small
buttonhole at the opposite end for inserting the belt prong.
Overcast the unfinished raw edge. Working from the front side insert prong into the single hole, and then
wrap short end to the wrong side and hand stitch to secure. Tip: Depending on the finished width of your
belt and the size of your buckle you may find it necessary to gather this edge to fit width of buckle. Your
suede belt is finished.
4
Complete instructions for the embroidered belt can be found at
blog.brothersews.com. Click on the link below:
http://blog.brothersews.com/embroidery/embroidered-belt-free-design/
 Visit me at my Sewing and Embroidery website www.letsgosew.com. I would love to hear your
thoughts, comments, and answer any questions you may have. You’ll find online lessons, videos,
free downloads, and lots of sewing fun at letsgosew.com!
 Be sure to visit the Official Brother Blog for even more ideas, projects, and information!
 Visit the official website for Dritz products at www.dritz.com. Dritz has special notions for making
great belts and many other “must have” sewing accessories and notions.
Happy Sewing
5
Moon bunny Bag
A B ag Patte r n b y Fe li ce Re g i na
I A MLUNA SO L. CO M
materials cutting
1/3 yard exterior fabric Exterior Fabric:
(1) 10” square applique fabric (2) Main Panel, use pattern piece
1/3 yard lining fabric (1) Bottom Gusset, 4” x 19¼“
(2) Zipper Gusset, 2½” x 11“
¼ yard for strap
(1) Strap Loop, 4” x 6“
1¼ yards of 20” wide Pellon® SF-101 Shape Flex®
interfacing Lining Fabric:
1/3 yard of By Annie’s Soft & Stable™ (2) Main Panel, use pattern piece
(1) Bottom Gusset, 4” x 19¼“
10” zipper
(2) Zipper Gusset, 2½” x 11“
(1) 10“ square of paper-backed fusible web such
as Pellon® 805 Wonder-Under or Strap Fabric:
Steam-a-Seam2® (2) Adjustable Strap, 4” x 42“
(1) package of ½” double fold bias tape to match Shape Flex:
lining (or make 60“ of your own)
(2) Main Panel, use pattern piece
(1) 1” rectangle slider (1) Bottom Gusset, 4” x 19¼“
(2) 1” rectangle rings (4) Zipper Gusset, 2” x 11“
(1) Strap Loop, 3” x 6“
(3) Adjustable Strap, 3” x 20“
pattern info
Soft and Stable:
(2) Main Panel, use pattern piece
(1) Bottom Gusset, 4” x 19¼“
Suggested fabrics: Home dec weight

cotton/linen canvas, or quilting cotton.
Notions: Zipper foot, walking foot
Seam allowances are ½” unless otherwise stated.
Backstitch at beginning and end of all seams.
All measurements are width x height.
Yardage based on 42” wide fabric. Directional
prints may require additional yardage.
Finished Size: 9” H x 9” W x 3” D
Wrong Side Right Side
Applique Fabric Lining Right Side
For pattern support, contact info@iamlunasol.com
Moon Bunny Bag // Copyright © 2016 Felice Regina. All Rights Reserved. www.iamlunasol.com 1
prepare applique
6. Fuse Shape Flex to wrong side of Adjustable
Strap, aligning the long edges on one side as
you did in step 4. Butt the pieces of Shape Flex
1. Trace Moon Template onto piece of fusible
against one another, with the short sides
web. Lightly fuse the web to wrong side of
end-to-end to cover interface the length of the
applique fabric according to manufacturer
strap.
instructions. Once cool, carefully cut out the
template.
2. Lay a Main Panel right side up. Position the

Moon Template as illustrated and fuse. Select a
thread color to match your applique and secure
7. Layer lining Main Panel (right side down), Soft
with a satin, zigzag, or blanket stitch along the
& Stable, and exterior Main Panel (right side up).
inside edges.
Align raw edges, pin, and baste around the
edges with ⅛” seam allowance. Repeat with
second Main Panel and Bottom Gusset.
make strap loops
8. Fold Strap Loop in half lengthwise, wrong

sides together (WST), aligning the edges and
press. Fold the edges in again to meet the
crease and press. Re-fold along the first crease
to create a 6” long piece of 1“ wide double-fold
tape.
fuse interfacing
9. Topstitch along both folded edges of the tape
with ⅛” seam allowance.
3. Lay Main Panels right sides down. Place the 10. Cut your tape into (2) 3” pieces. Thread each
corresponding pieces of Shape Flex on top with piece through a 1” rectangle ring and fold in half.
the fusible side down. Fuse according to Set aside.
assemble gusset
manufacturer instructions.
4. Fuse Shape Flex to the wrong sides of both

exterior Zipper Gusset pieces, aligning the long
edges on one side. Fuse a second layer of 11. Place the exterior Zipper Gusset pieces RST,
interfacing directly on top. Repeat with the Strap aligning the long edges without interfacing. Pin
Loop in a similar manner (there will be only one and baste along this edge. Press seam open.
layer of interfacing). Repeat with lining Zipper Gusset pieces.
5. With right sides together 12. Lay exterior Zipper Gusset right side down.
(RST), sew the two Adjustable Position the 10” zipper on top with right side
Strap pieces together with a down. Center the zipper teeth with the basted
diagonal seam. Trim seam to ¼” seam from the previous step. Pin in place. Using
and press open. Trim strap to 58“ long. your zipper foot, baste the zipper in place with a
⅜“ seam allowance. 19. Cut (2) 4” long pieces of
bias tape. Press the center
13. Place exterior Zipper Gusset right side fold open. With the folded
down. Lay lining Zipper Gusset on top with WST. edges facing down,
Align the raw edges and center the basted seam position the piece over the
over the zipper coil. You may need to feel for it seam allowance. The top
with your fingers to check its position. Pin in folded edge of the tape
place. should just barely cover
14. With your zipper foot, sew along the basted the stitched gusset seam.
seam with a ¼” seam allowance. You should be Pin in place. Hand stitch in
sewing through the lining Zipper Gusset, zipper place with a ladder stitch
tape, and exterior Zipper Gusset. or blind whip stitch. Repeat
with second gusset seam
and piece of bias tape.
15. With a seam ripper, carefully remove the

assemble bag
basting stitches from step 11-12. Trim the
zipper tape that extends past the Zipper Gusset. 20. Fold your Main Panels in half vertically to
find the centers and mark with a pin on the top
16. Position one of the folded Strap Loops on and bottom edges.
top of the short edge of the exterior Bottom
Gusset, aligning the raw edges and centering 21. Fold your gusset in half, matching up the
the loop width-wise. Baste in place with a ¼” gusset seams, to find the center of the Zipper
seam allowance. Repeat with the remaining Gusset portion and Bottom Gusset portion.
Strap Loop on the opposite end of the Bottom Finger press to form creases and mark each end
Gusset. of the two creases with a pin.
17. Place the Zipper Gusset and Bottom Gusset 22. With exterior sides together, align the raw
with exterior sides together, aligning the short edges of your gusset and Main Panel. Match the
edges. Pin both ends, and sew to form a loop. center points and pin. Match the notches on
Sew directly on top of each seam once more for your Main Panel with the gusset seams. Pin
strength. Trim seam to ⅜“ and press towards around the entire panel, easing the gusset
Bottom Gusset. around the circle. Take your time and sew
slowly. Trim your seam allowance to ⅜” and clip
18. Topstitch Bottom Gusset ⅛” below each your curves.
seam made in the previous step.
23. Unzip your zipper. Repeat the previous step
to attach the Back Panel to the gusset.
24. Unfold one side of your bias tape and fold

the end back ¼”. With RST, place the bias tape
against the edge of the Gusset / Main Panel
seam, aligning the outermost crease with the
seam.
28. Repeat the previous step on the second
Gusset / Main Panel seam and turn your bag
right side out.
29. To give your bag crisp edges, fold along the

gusset seams and press around each seam with
your iron on the steam setting.
make adjustable strap

30. Repeat step 8-9 with Adjustable Strap to
create a 58” long piece of 1” wide double-fold
Pin the bias tape all the way around the seam. tape.
When you come back to start of the bias tape,
overlap the front folded end by about 2”. We 31. Thread your strap
leave this overlapped portion a little long in case through the rectangle
of any shifting. slider as illustrated.
32. Fold your strap back 1½” and fold the raw
end under again ¼“. Stitch the end to itself by
sewing a narrow rectangle.
Side
View
Top
View
25. Sew the bias tape to the bag by stitching in
the crease. Start sewing at the folded end (do
not sew through the overlapped end) and
33. Thread the free end of the strap through the
continue all the way around the seam. Just
a rectangle ring on one of the Strap Loops.
before you reach the overlapped portion of the
Proceed to thread the strap through the
tape, trim the overlap to ½”. End by sewing
rectangle slider once more, on top of the
through the overlapped portion of the tape.
stitched end of the strap
26. Repeat the previous step with your
34. Continue to thread the strap through the
remaining bias tape on the other Gusset / Main
second rectangle ring. Fold strap back and stitch
Panel seam.
in place as you did in step 32.
27. Fold the bias tape over the Gusset / Main
Panel seam and sandwich it between the tape.
Hand stitch the bias tape all the way around the
opposite side of the seam with a ladder stitch or
blind whip stitch.
pattern printing
instructions
This square
should
measure
1” x 1”
Print the pattern

pieces at 100%. Do not
scale. ½” seam
allowance is included
in Main Panel pattern
piece.
Mark Notches
Cut on Fold
MOON BUNNY BAG
MAIN PANEL
Cut 2 - Exterior Main Fabric
Cut 2 - Lining Fabric
Cut 2 - Soft & Stable
Cut 2 - Interfacing
template printing
instructions
Print the template pieces at

100%. Do not scale. Trim off
the margins. Line up the
semicircles with matching
letters and tape together.
Your Moon Template is now
ready to cut out.
A
A
Moon Template
Moon Template
A
A
Making a Convertible Cosplay Skirt with Grommets
By Cheryl Sleboda of Sew Much Cosplay
Materials Needed:
- Skirt made from Simplicity pattern 8159 view A – stopped before putting in the stays
- Dritz Grommet Pliers
- Dritz Grommets in Antique Brass - Item #: 1-38
- Ribbon at least 1 ½ inch wide
- Ruler at least 12 inches wide
- Dritz Water Erasable Marking Pen
1. Start by making your skirt as directed in the pattern and stopping before you put in the
hardware. You will be putting in grommets instead.
2. Determine the front of your skirt, and lay out on a table so the front panel is flat. Measure
about 12 inches down from the waistline and 6 inches in from the seam on the side. Mark a
small dot where the first grommet will go. Continue marking a dot every 2 inches down the side
seam of the skirt.
3. Do the same to the opposite side of the skirt. Double check that both lines of markings are fairly
even with each other in relation to the dots. You don’t want one line of grommets to be higher
or lower than the other side.
4. Using the grommet pliers with the punch attachment inserted, punch a hole over each dot. You
may have to bunch the fabric up in the jaws of the pliers.
5. Once your holes are punched on each side, change the attachment on your pliers to the
grommet setting attachment.
6. Place your grommet with the male side so that faces on the right side of the skirt. The female
end, which the male end is formed over, should be on the back side of the skirt. Using the
grommet pliers, squeeze to form the grommet. Try not to catch any fabric into the grommet, be
sure it’s smoothed out before you squeeze the pliers. Any fabric bunched inside will be hard to
remove.
7. Set each grommet using the pliers.
8. Now it’s time to sew in your ribbon. Using a matching thread to your fabric, cut a double length
of ribbon that is about the same length as the line of grommets, plus 4 inches. Fold your ribbon
in half so you have two long trails of ribbon. You need one set of these for each side.
9. Turn your skirt inside out so you are sewing from the wrong side of the fabric. Place your folded
edge of the ribbon about an inch above the first (top) grommet and sew it to the wrong side of
the fabric. One single seam should hold the ribbon in place.
10. Once you have both sides of ribbon sewn on, you can weave the ribbons in and out of the
grommets. Once at the bottom, you just pull on the ribbons to scrunch out the fabric, and use
the ribbons as ties. You can make the skirt any length you like using this method!
For more information and inspiration, visit

Sew Much Cosplay™
www.sewmuchcosplay.com
Season 1409
• Shirt Dress Sewalong – Buttons and Buttonholes

Part 7 Shirt Dress Sewalong: In this episode we

sew the buttonholes and attach the buttons.
For the full tutorial on my blog click here.
Join me for the entire sewalong! Here is the full Schedule

for the sewalong along with links to the tutorials on my
blog:
1. Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping

fabrics, patterns, and sizing
4. Episode 1405: Sewing the placket on the
sleeve
5. Episode 1406: Sewing the sleeves and side
seams
8. Episode 1413: Finishing the hem with a
rolled hem
Jessica Stewart- Izzy & Ivy Designs
Change the Look of a Garment with Fabric
I love fabric? It’s fun to play around with colors, scale, prints, and textures. One
thing that’s especially important in my line of work is scale. The size of the details
on the fabric play a big part in how your overall look is seen, especially when
sewing for children. A large floral print that shines on a women’s skirt or dress
might not read the same on a preschooler! Today we’re going to look at some
tips on how to choose what fabric goes where, as well as how to add fabric
interest to a garment.
One of my favorite styles to work with is a dress that has a large skirt area. This is
a great place to display your favorite print! You can go large or small, but the
important part is what you pair it with so that your main fabric makes a
statement. Choose your main print, and then gather some coordinating prints or
blenders of your liking.
I like to use my largest print for my skirt, then work my way from largest to smallest
from there. The next sized print might be the bodice, then the straps or sleeves,
pockets, sash and ties, and hemband. The tiniest details on these dresses, like
the loops and such, I just pick whatever I think goes best. Sometimes it’s a repeat
from the bodice, and sometimes I want a pop of color. The most important thing
to remember is that while these are suggestions, they are not rules! No rules, just
fun!
You can showcase certain parts of the fabric by strategically placing it within
the bodice or some other focal point of the garment. Notice how you can
feature a smaller blossom on a small bodice, but choose a larger one for the
bodice on an older girl.
Another way to really get more mileage out of your fabric choice is to add little
details, made from fabric scraps and trim. This adds a special touch to the
garment and takes it from homemade to HANDmade. There are many ways to
add fabric details, and today I’m going to demonstrate how to combine fabric
and trim to make a faux placket.
You will need- A pattern with blank space (this can be a skirt, dress, top, shorts,
purse…whatever!), fabric scraps, trim, pins, buttons, sewing machine, thread,
and scissors
1. I’m using a dress bodice to embellish today, but feel free to adapt these
instructions for whatever piece you are using. Take your scrap piece and cut it
so that it is 2” wide by the length of the center of the bodice.
2. Cut 2 strips of trim to the length of your scrap piece. I am using a crochet
edge bias tape that I have pressed into a flat bias tape and there is only one
fold.
3. Place the trim on one side of the scrap piece and sew down the edge, using
¼” seam allowance. Press the seam to the center, then repeat with the other
side.
4. Mark the center of your bodice on both the top and the bottom. You can
even line this up on the lines of your cutting mat or press a light fold down the
center. Align the placket on the center of the bodice, then pin well. You don’t
want it moving around on you and getting off center.
5. Topstitch the placket in place. You are now ready to use your bodice piece
and add it to the steps as prescribed in the pattern you are using. You can
certainly layer other trim here, but keep in mind that the more you add, the
more bulk you’ll have when it’s time to sew on your lining. If you are adding
buttons, you can add them now or wait until you’re finished sewing the
garment.
Patterns featured- Izzy & Ivy Designs Addie Jo Skirt, Stella Dress, and Emory Dress
Fabric- Ashtyn, Hayden, and Zola for Ink & Arrow Fabrics
Trims- Vintage Door crochet edge bias tape and French crochet trim
Choker Tunic from T-Shirt – Laura Pifer
Supplies:
• Shirtspace L- XL shirt
• Shears
• Thread
• Sewing machine
Instructions may be found at:

http://www.trashtocouture.com/2016/07/diy-choker-dress-from-t-shirt.html
ShirtSpace T-Shirt may be found at:

https://www.shirtspace.com
IG account: @Shirtspace
****Use code Laura10 for 10% off*****
In Collaboration with Shirtspace.com

Style Tip: Needle Felting is an easy embellishment that’s perfect for garments and accessories alike.

www.letsgosew.com
 Featured machine is the Brother XV8550D Dream Machine2

 Brother Needle Felting Attachment - Accessory #SA280 Please read all instructions that are
included with attachment.
 Kunin brand polyester felt for flower base
 Wool roving
 Snippets of sock weight wool or wool blend yarn.
 Accents such as feathers and buttons or beads.
 Plain hat
 Hand needle and thread and a pin to secure trim to hat.
1
General information about the SA280, Needle Felting Attachment for the Brother XV/V series machines:
Needle felting by machine is fast, fun, and easy! This attachment will help you quickly and securely punch
wool rovings, fabrics, felt or yarns into a base fabric. Popular base fabrics include synthetic felt, wool felt,
wool fabrics, denim, and even silk dupioni! This attachment is specifically made for certain model
machines. In this kit you’ll find everything you need to start: a needle holder and cover, presser foot,
Allen screwdriver, dust box, extra needles and a yarn guide. Add fabrics and fibers of your choice and you
are ready to embellish with felting. As an alternative you can use a kit for felting by hand.
Basic Instructions for creating a felted accent such as the floral trim for this hat:
Step 1. Cut an oversized piece of synthetic felt to use as a base. Begin by tracing a rough outline
of a flower or other shape using a removable marker. Pull off bits of roving fibers and place in
desired areas you wish to fill.
Tip: You can use an appliqué template or even a cookie cutter as the basis for your shape.
Step 2. Felt the fibers into the base, adding more fibers to fill as desired. Create a mix of colors
by blending in various colors.
Tip: Felting by machine takes very little practice and you will quickly develop a rhythm as you
work. There is no right or wrong way to do this but I like to use a back and forth movement and
add a little bit of fiber at a time. Fibers should be thoroughly embedded in the base.
2
Step 3. Cut short pieces of yarn to accent the roving as desired and felt these into place.
Note: With this attachment you can also thread strands of yarn through the cording hole and felt
into place for additional accents.
Step 4. Cut out felted piece and add trims as desired. I prefer hand sewing trims to the felted
piece but you could consider using suitable fabric glue. Attach finished piece to your item with a
pin or use hand sewing.
You are finished! Enjoy!
3
“Refashion Your Wardrobe” – refashioning old jeans into runway ready
apparel
By: Jane Monzures
This is one of the hottest trends for fall denim and now you can
refashion old jeans into runway ready apparel.
You’ll need:
Jeans
Fancy fabric like brocade
Upholstery fabric
Thick cotton, or heavy twill
((STEP 1 – Measure and Cut))
First, measure the length from the hip to the just below the knee where you would like the
accent piece to start.
Then measure from the knee to the floor or how long you would like to make these pair of
pants. Wearing them with heels you will want to add a little bit of extra length.
From the jeans, cut at the knee or wherever you want the fancy fabric to start. Save your
denim scraps for another project.
From your fancy fabric, cut the length that you would like from the knee to the floor.
((STEP 2 – Cutting Fabric Embellishment Piece))
To get the circumference of the leg, use using the scrap piece to measure the size by laying
the fancy fabric around the scrap piece to get the width, mark it, and give yourself a small
seam allowance. You don’t want this part to be too large or it will gap or be too small.
Next, depending on the width of the leg, this is your chance to make it a wider leg or if you
want a more tapered look you can narrow the leg, cut the fancy fabric leaving seam
allowance.
((STEP 3 - SEWING))
Sew up the side of fancy fabric.

With the right sides together, pin the edges of the denim leg and fancy fabric together and
sew around the knee.
TOP TIP: use a basting stitch first just to make sure it fits properly.
Turn the leg right side out
Try them on for fit and if it’s fabulous…Do the same with the second leg.
Depending on your length, you can turn it in and top stitch for a quick hem. If your fabric
doesn’t fray you can leave the raw edge as is.
There you have it, old jeans with a new life and this falls hottest trend in denim!
((STEP 4 – ALTERNATE IDEAS for DENIM))
Another great trend this fall is the frayed edge and feather hem…which are easy to do!
For both, cut the length just above the ankle. For the frayed look cut 1” up into the denim and
brush to fray OR toss in the washing machine for best results.
For the feathers, zig zag stitch or serge your raw edge denim, pin on the feather and top
stitch.

Contact Jane:
YouTube: DIYbyJANE
Jane Monzures is a crafter with contagious enthusiasm, with a rip-it-apart and remake it
sense of humor, and a bigger is better attitude all on the rocks with a twist and olives!
sweeps the nation. She was repurposing before repurposing was cool. Jane helps you find
your creativity, showing you how to improve your life thru UpCrafting, she enjoys sharing
savvy DIY trends, back-to-the-basics crafting tips, money-saving Home Ec hacks, and aims
to inspire everyone to make something.
everywhere: the thrift store, closets, attics, and storage rooms...anywhere old stuff lurks I’ll
grab it and give it a new life. My mission is to inspire people who don't typically craft, to make
something because there is no better satisfaction than when you do-it- yourself.”
Healthy Chicago and on WGN- Radio, and is the host of Creative Living on Yurview TV. She
has been featured as a DIY UpCrafting expert on NBC’s TODAY show, Create & Craft TV
USA, FOX's Good Day Live, ABC’s Windy City Live, WCIU’s You & Me This Morning, FOX
17 Morning Mix Grand Rapids, Peachtree TV Atlanta, and ENJOY Magazine.
This is no “Plain Jane”; she is the crafty, modern domestic diva who is clever and inventive in
all aspects of her life. See more great UpCrafting ideas from Jane at www.DIYbyJane.com
and connect with her on FACEBOOK, TWITTER and INSTAGRAM @JaneMonzures and
Subscribe to her YouTube Channel DIYbyJaneMonzures
Belly Bands for Pillows
Rebecca Kemp Brent for RNK Distributing
Belly bands are a great quick-change option for updating old pillows or marking the changing seasons.
They're more compact and easier to store than extra pillows, so you can make several and redecorate
when you want!
Materials
Fat quarters or fabric scraps for the front*
3/8 yard of backing/binding fabric
Floriani Embroidery Batting
6 buttons, 1 1/8" diameter
Quilting, sewing, and embroidery threads
Heavy-duty thread
Toothpicks or skewer
Optional: Floriani tear-away stabilizer
Notes
• These instructions create a belly band for a pillow about 18" square. To adapt the size for your
pillow, measure around the stuffed pillow and add 6". You can fine-tune the overlap before
finishing, so it's best to start with too much rather than not enough. Make the band width about half
of the pillow width.
• *For the pieced samples, I used ethically sourced scraps from a sari-making factory. They're
available as fat quarters from Darn Good Yarn (see Resources).
• The samples use a selection of quilting and embroidery threads, including Premium Metallic
Embroidery Thread, from Floriani.
• Specific instructions are given for a belly band with a large embroidered panel. You can adapt these
instructions by making additional pieced blocks to create a band without embroidery.
Cutting
From the fat quarters or scraps, cut:
1 rectangle, 9 1/2" x 11 1/2"

1 rectangle, 6 1/2" x 9 1/2"
4 squares, 6 1/2" x 6 1/2"
4 rectangles, 4" x 3 1/2"
4 rectangles, 3" x 3 1/2"
From the backing/binding fabric, cut:
1 rectangle, 10 3/4" x 43"
From the batting, cut:
1 rectangle, 12" x 44"
Construction:
Seam allowance is 1/4". Press the seam allowances to one side as you work.
1. Arrange the squares and rectangles as shown, creating a good variety of color throughout the project.
SEE ILLUSTRATION A
2. Sew a 3" x 3 1/2" rectangle to a 4" x 3 1/2" rectangle. Stitch the resulting unit to a 6 1/2" square to
make a block. Make four blocks.
3. Sew the pieced and solid blocks together as shown to create the belly band top.
4. Center the pieced top on the batting. If you are using Floriani Embroidery Batting you will not need
backing fabric for this step. To use a different batting, place tear-away stabilizer or a rectangle of muslin
behind the batting.
5. Quilt the top and batting layers together. The sample uses a diagonal grid of lines spaced 1 1/2" apart.
Choose a thread color that blends into the fabric that will be the embroidery background.
6. Embroider the design at the center of the large plain block. I used a piece of tear-away stabilizer
behind the embroidery batting to provide extra security for this large, high stitch count design.
7. Trim the batting to match the top, squaring the corners and sides.
8. Lay the backing on the top, right sides together, matching and pinning the two long edges. The
backing is larger than the top. Allow the same amount of backing fabric to extend beyond the pieced top
at each short end. Stitch the two long edges.
9. Turn the belly band right side out. The backing will wrap around the seam allowances on the long
edges, creating a mock binding. Press the long edges only so that you don't flatten the quilted area.
10. Edgestitch the mock binding near the seamline through all layers for the look of a topstitched
binding. Alternatively, stitch in the ditch to hold the layers in place.
11. Trim the ends of the backing 5/8" beyond the pieced top. Fold the raw edge of the backing to meet
the raw edge of the band and press. Fold again along the band edge, bringing the backing over the raw
edges to complete the faux binding. Edgestitch.
12. Work three buttonholes on each end of the band (six total), 5/8" from the short end. Position one
buttonhole at the center of the band and one buttonhole 3/4" from each long edge.
13. Position two buttons back to back with a toothpick or skewer between the buttons. Thread your
needle with a doubled heavy thread or a twice-doubled length of all-purpose thread. Stitch the buttons
together. Tie the thread tails securely. Add a drop of seam sealant to the knot and trim the thread tails;
remove the toothpick. Make three double buttons.
14. Wrap the band around your pillow. Slip each double button through a buttonhole at each end of the
belly band to secure it around the pillow.
Why use double buttons?
Using double buttons makes the band reversible. It also allows you to shift buttons from one band to
another, so that you can use the same buttons for all of your belly bands. If you prefer, you can make
three buttonholes on one end of the band and sew three buttons to the other end for a traditional
closure.
Note: If you use buttons with metal or plastic shanks rather than sew-through buttons, you will not need
the toothpick to maintain space between the buttons.
Resources
Embroidery design: A7448 Paisley Dragonfly Oval (5.87" x 8.32") from emblibrary.com
*Sari silk fabrics: Darn Good Yarn, Inc. (darngoodyarn.com)

Bel
lyBands
I
ll
ustr
ati
onA
Not
e:Thesetwobandsar
esli
ght
lydi
ff
ere
nt
l
engt
hs,butt
heyarea
d j
ust
edtof
itwi
th
t
hebutt
onc l
osur
e.
Style Tip: Easily update plain napkins with bias trim.
www.letsgosew.com
Style tip: anpkins.
Supplies featured in this segment include:
 Brother Sewing Machine

 SA198 Adjustable Binder Foot
 Embroidery thread and embroidery needle for decorative
stitching.
 Pre-purchased, high quality napkins approximately 20-
inches square.
 Double fold bias tape, ¼-inch (6mm wide), approximately
one package for each 20-inch square napkin.
Tip: Coordinate binding with a prominent color in your
tableware. Make an extra napkin to wrap around a vase and
use for a centerpiece.
Basic instructions:
Cut four pieces of bias tape several inches longer than each napkin edge. Set up machine with adjustable
bias binder foot and adjust so tape is snug when inserted. Select a stitch such as the serpentine stitch and
stitch over the trim from end to end on each napkin edge. Make sure to tie off stitch at beginning and end.
Tie knots at each of the corners and trim on the diagonal to finish. For more detailed instructions you can
CLICK HERE to view the original instructions on the brothersews.com website, along with additional
projects in the Free Project archives on this site.
videos, free downloads, and lots of sewing fun at letsgosew.com!
 Visit the Official Brother Blog for even more great ideas, projects, and information!
Happy Sewing!
1
DIY Batwing Cardigan – Laura Pifer
Supplies:
• Stylish Fabric: 2 yards jersey knit fabric
• Serger or sewing machine
Instructions for this project may be found at:

http://www.trashtocouture.com/2013/10/diy-batwing-cardigan.html
Fabric may be found at:

https://www.stylishfabric.com/knit-fabrics.html
In Collaboration with StylishFabric.com
In Collaboration with OrganicCottonPlus.com
IG account: @StylishFabric
Season 1413
• Shirt Dress Sewalong - Hemming

Part 8 Shirt Dress Sewalong: In this episode

we sew the hem. For the full tutorial on my
blog click here.
Join me for the entire sewalong! Here is the full Schedule

for the sewalong along with links to the tutorials on my
blog:
1. Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping

fabrics, patterns, and sizing
4. Episode 1405: Sewing the placket on the
sleeve
5. Episode 1406: Sewing the sleeves and side
seams
8. Episode 1413: Finishing the hem with a
rolled hem
Series 1413
Felice Regina - Cutting Garment Patterns from Border Prints
For fabric information and tutorials, visit www.iamlunasol.com.

Patterns shown: Simplicity 1208 (left) and Cambie Dress by Sewaholic Patterns (right)
Cutting garment patterns from border prints requires a bit of extra time and fabric. Here are
some helpful tips and considerations for working with border prints.
● You will probably need extra yardage when making border print garments because. I
suggest purchasing at least a yard more than your pattern suggests.
● Trace your pattern pieces onto Swedish tracing paper. This will enable you to see your
fabric through the pattern piece easily and reposition it without worrying about ripping a
tissue pattern.
● Lay fabric flat when arranging pattern pieces for cutting, not folded selvedge to selvedge.
● Disregard pattern placement diagrams. Instead, arrange pattern pieces according to
what part of the print you would like to feature. Do follow grain direction though!
● Remember to take hem allowance into account when placing pattern pieces on the
fabric.
● Because border prints run parallel to the grain, they are not suited for bias-cut garments.
● Skirts and dresses with straight hemlines are best suited to border prints. If your skirt has
a curved hem, you can alter the pattern piece to make it into a straight hem.
● Use the trace-and-flip method for cutting pattern pieces that need to be cut on the fold:
trace the pattern piece with a removable marking pen, then flip the pattern over the fold
line to trace the second half.

ISE1400 Change Is in The Air

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

ISE1400 Change Is in The Air

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Season 1401

• Upcycling 2 Jean Shirts into a Shirt Dress

Fabric, Patterns and Sewing Supplies are found on:

Upcycling Denim Shirts into a Dress

My husband recently brought me a bag of

I thought of maybe making a denim quilt, but

Then it occurred to me to make a jean dress!

Supplies: 2 denim shirts

 Click here for the blog post with a full

Jean Dress Sew-Along

Announcing a full season sewalong! This

1. Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping fabrics, patterns, and sizing

Use coupon code ITSSEWEASY10 for 10% off everything at

Refer to my blog for more sewing tip and tricks!

Upcycle sewing made simple.

IT’S SEW EASY

Upcycle (up-si-kel) To improve existing goods (such as clothing)

MATERIALS & SUPPLIES

Sew a ½” seam and press.

Press the raw edges up towards the armhole.

Topstitch the just above the cuff, catching the turned-up

Here's an overview of the gusset-making process.

Add seam allowance as determined by the garment you're altering.

2. Choose the gusset fabric.

3. Cut the gussets from the fabric.

4. Prepare the garment.

Stitch first seam

Part 2 Shirt Dress Sewalong: In this episode we press

1. Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping fabrics,

About Cashmerette Patterns

Want to Learn More Pattern Hacking?

Sew Princess Seams

By: Jane Monzures

(IDEA 1 – exposed zipper front – T-Shirt)

(IDEA 2 – exposed zipper back - Sweatshirt)

(IDEA 3 – Deconstructed zipper for embellishment – Shirt embellish)

Deconstruct a zipper and use it as décor rather than a closure.

(IDEA 4 – Deconstructed zippers to make jewelry - Flowers)

Zippers can actually make beautiful floral embellishments.

Get in touch with Jane:

Presented by: Joanne Banko

A padded hanger cover is handy for travel or at home in your

 Children's Custom Hanger Cover

CLICK HERE to add your name to the letsgosew.com email list

Instructions for Child’s Dress:

Creating the foam armor:

Creating the strap:

For more information on Cosplay Armor Building, please visit

Sew Much Cosplay™

Fabric, Patterns and Sewing Supplies are found on:

Part 3 Shirt Dress Sewalong: In this episode we sew the

1. Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping fabrics, patterns,

About Cashmerette Patterns

Want to Learn More Pattern Hacking?

Alter the pattern pieces

Sew Button Back

Sew Button Front

Alter Pattern Pieces

Sew Tulip Back

Fabric, Patterns and Sewing Supplies are found on:

Part 4 Shirt Dress Sewalong: In this episode we sew the

1. Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping fabrics,

Couched Collar for Faux Suede Coat

Use code Laura10 for 10% off*

Use Code seweasy10 at checkout to save 10% on all rib knits

Use code Laura10 for 10% off*