SEW Sewing A Perfect Fitted Skirt Sisneros Craftsy

Sewing a Perfect Fitted Skirt
Sewing a Perfect
Fitted Skirt
Supply List • Calculation Worksheet • Core Elements in Drafting • Instructions
by Aurora Sisneros
© craftsy | craftsy . com 1

Skirt Making Supply List

Here are some handy tools to help you draft your skirt pattern, and sew up your Perfect Fitted Skirt!
Pattern Paper Right Angle Ruler

Pattern paper can be expensive - a cheaper option is Because we draw some nice right-angles into our
to order a case of Exam Table Paper from Amazon! pattern, it helps to have a triangular shaped tool with
Yes, this is the paper you sit on during a doctor’s of- a right-angle on it for drawing purposes.
fice visit, but it is inexpensive and works beautifully!
French Curve
Long Ruler If you are terrible at sketching curves like I am, a
Since I am a quilter, I have many clear rulers that I French curve can help you smooth out the jutted
use for rotary cutting. However, a regular old yard- angles on your skirt without having to freehand a
stick will do! You just need something to draw long, curved line.
straight lines during the drafting process.
Pins
Chalk Pencil or Iron Off Pen Pins are essential to this project, as you will use them
I prefer the iron-off Frixon pens, as they come in many to pin pieces together, and pin your pattern to your
colors and the lines come off when you press the gar- project to cut it out.
ment. However, a chalk pencil also works just fine!
Basting Tape
This makes zipper installation a dream! Definitely
keep this double-sided thin tape on hand for any
zipper install!

Skirt Math Calculation Worksheet

Fill in your measurements below, then solve for all the equations and you are ready to draft your first pattern!
Take Your Measurements Write them all down here:

HIPS: To measure your hips, measure yourself around
WAIST (A):_________________________________________
your booty at the widest part of it.
WAIST: Normally, this is the SMALLEST part of you. HIPS (B):___________________________________________
However, this is also where you would like your skirt to
sit on your body. Measure your waist exactly where you WAIST to HIPS (C): _________________________________
want the skirt waistband to sit.
LENGTH from HIP (D): ______________________________
WAIST to HIPS: Starting from waist measured above,
measure down to where you measured your hip.
LENGTH: Starting at hip, measure length desired.
Skirt Drafting Equations

Here are the acronyms used in the skirt equations below. Write in your measurements, and solve for W, X, Y, Z, and the
right-angle equations last.
SA = Seam Allowance WB = Waistband Allowance E = Ease
Skirt With Waistband: Skirt With Facing:

( ______ + 2” SA + 2” E ) / 4 = ______ ( ______ + 2” SA + 2” E ) / 4 = ______
(A) (W) (A) (W)
( ______ + 2” SA + 2” E) / 4 = ______ ( ______ + 2” SA + 2” E) / 4 = ______
(B) (X) (B) (X)
______ + ½” SA -2” WB = ______ ______ + ½” SA = ______
(C) (Y) (C) (Y)
______ + 1” Hem = ______ ______ + 1” Hem = ______
(D) (Z) (D) (Z)
W / 3 = ________________ W / 3 = ________________
Hem Line / 3 = __________ Hem Line / 3 = __________
(Note: you cannot measure hemline until drawn) (Note: you cannot measure hemline until drawn)
Waistband Equations
Cut one waistband AA x 3”. For a taller than 1” waistband, cut a waistband wider than 3”.
Matched 1” Tall Waistband: Overlapped 1” Tall Waistband:

______ + 1” SA + 2” E = ______ ______ + 1” SA + 2” E + 3” Overlap = ______
(A) (AA) (A) (AA)

Core Elements in Skirt Drafting

If you are reading this, you are most likely dissatisfied
with the simple tutorial you found online to make
your first A-Line skirt. Sure, it is made from wonderful
fabric, sure it fits your waist, but it doesn’t really fit
anywhere else. First, let me congratulate you in your
journey to making skirts, and on the success of your
first one! You have seen just how EASY it is to make a
simple A-Line skirt, so have no fear - adding in a few
key elements to make the fit PERFECT is easy as pie.
Most of the simple online tutorials have you draw a

sort of trapezoid shape, make 2 of them, and sew
them together, putting a zipper in at the seam. When
you try it on, it is ABSOLUTELY a skirt! But the waist
is odd, it doesn’t fit the contour of your waistline very
well, the hem is pointy at the corners, and it lays flat
and funny around the torso.
Don’t throw your pattern out the window just yet!

All we need to do is add a few elements, and in
the class The Perfect Fitted Skirt, we teach you
these little details!
Darts
If there is ONE thing in skirt making that you cannot
skip, it is darts! Your torso is rounded. Our stomachs
are rounded. Our booties are definitely rounded!
And the beautiful fabric you chose? FLAT! These lit-
tle cuts into the fabric will make your fabric CURVED
instead of FLAT so they hug your curves and show
off the most flattering parts of you. You will notice
in the class that the first difference from your online
tutorial is the FRONT is not the same as the BACK. In
real life, this is true too! Sure we have a slight curve
in our stomachs, but not NEARLY as curvy as we have
around our booties. This is why our darts in the back
of the skirt are twice the length and width as the
ones in the front. Darts not only help to get the fit
and flatter and drape just right, it also helps the skirt
stay in place so it doesn’t just spin around you on
your waist.

Angles
The human body LOVES right-angles. Your trape-
zoid you drew does not have any right angles! It is
important to draft in a right-angle to bring the waist
HIGHER on the side, which means LOWER around
the tummy so the fit is much better and curves un-
der the tummy line or waist line instead of straight
through it. At the hemline, we do another right angle
to bring the sides higher there as well to prevent the
side seams from poking out at a funny angle. As the
skirt drapes, the angled seams will hang right in line
with the rest of the skirt to make a beautiful hemline.
Curves
So, we’ve added the right angles, but remember, we
are curved! These are simply guidelines to where
your curves should go. Using a French curve or
free-hand sketching, smooth out all of those jutted
angles so all of them become nice and smooth and
curvy! Because each of us are different, it might take
a few different drafts for you to get the curve of the
hip and waist just so, but your pattern will be very
easy to edit.
Extra Details
And that’s it! Darts, Angles, and Curves will be your
key to drafting the perfect fitted skirt! However, there
are lots of lovely other details you can add to take
your style to the next level. You can add a 3rd seam
up the back of the skirt, and insert a zipper in the
back instead of the side. You can even make that
zipper exposed so it becomes a design element!
Did you use an extreme angle to make a pencil skirt?
Then you might need a slit in that back seam too!
Finally, you can decide if you would like to add a
waistband, or make a facing to finish the waistline.
All of these details are easy to add once you have
the core elements in place.
Now that you are armed with all the

techniques you need, enjoy your journey
into making perfectly fitted skirts!

The Perfect Fitted Skirt
The following pages contain written, step-by-step detailed instructions for making your very own
Perfect Fitted Skirt as seen in the class.

SUPPLIES NEEDED:
• 2 Yards Non-Stretchy FabricPattern Paper
(We use Exam Table Paper)
• Long Ruler
• Right Angle Ruler
INSTRUCTIONS:
First, we have to take our measurements.
HIPS: To measure your hips, measure yourself

around your booty at the widest part of it! Want to
make sure we have room for our rear end!
WAIST: Normally, this is the SMALLEST part of you.

However, this is also where you would like your
skirt to sit on your body. Measure your waist exactly
where you want the skirt waistband to sit.
WAIST to HIPS: Starting where you want the waist-

band to sit o your waist, measure down to the
middle of the hip that is also the widest part of you
(where you measured your hips.
LENGTH: Starting from the HIP, let your measuring

tape hang from there, and lower it to the desired
length of your skirt.
Write them all down here:
WAIST (A):___________
HIPS (B):___________
WAIST to HIPS (C): ___________
LENGTH from HIP (D): ___________
Great! Now it’s time to do a few simple math equa-

tions. There are two waist options here: a skirt with a
waistband, and one without. Choose which version
you are making, and fill out the equation needed!
Got all the math done? Great! Time to draw your

pattern onto your pattern paper!

SKIRT EQUATIONS
Here are the acronyms used in the skirt equations
below. Write your measurements from the column
on the left in the blanks in the equations.
SA = Seam Allowance
WB = Waistband Allowance
E = Ease
Skirt With Waistband:
( ____ + 2” SA + 2” E ) / 4 = ______
(A) (W)
( ____ + 2” SA + 2” E) / 4 = ______
(B) (X)
____ + ½” SA -2” WB = ______

(C) (Y)
____ + 1” Hem = ______

(D) (Z)
Skirt With Facing:
( ____ + 2” SA + 2” E ) / 4 = ______
(A) (W)
( ____ + 2” SA + 2” E) / 4 = ______
(B) (X)
____ + ½” SA = ______
(C) (Y)
____ + 1” Hem = ______

(D) (Z)

LET’S GET STARTED

Make sure you have a piece of pattern paper that
is at least 10 inches larger than the entire length of
your skirt. You’ll need some wiggle room!
The first thing I like to do is write all the measure-

ments onto your pattern piece. You’ll not only need
them for reference, but this will also tell you what
size the pattern was when you made it!
We are going to be using the left side of the pattern

piece as our fold. We will be cutting the pattern ON
the fold, which is why we divided all of our measure-
ments by 4! Give yourself about 5” from the top of the page. Start-
ing from the left edge of the paper, draw your mea-
surement W.
Then, from the W line, draw down the left edge of the
paper measurement Y.
At measurement Y, draw another line below the first

line that is measurement X.
Now, draw measurement Z down the left side of the

paper starting from the line X.
At the end of measurement X, draw a 3rd line all the

way across the paper. This will be our bottom hemline.

Front Darts
Our bodies are ROUND, and currently, this pattern

is FLAT! We need to put darts in both the Front and
the Back in order for the skirt to hug our curves.
Find the middle of measurement Y, and mark it.

Then, draw a line between lines W and X, and mark it
as the Abdominal Line (shown here in red).
Silhouette
Now is the time to decide what silhouette you would

like! Flare out more for a basic A-Line skirt, or stay
closer to the hipline for more of a Pencil skirt look.
Please note that depending on the length, a pencil

skirt might need a slit in order to be able to walk in it!
Connect the end of line W with line X. Then, from

line X, draw the desired angle down to the hem.
In this example, we did a nice easy A-Line.This first Find the middle of line W next! Mark it, and then
pattern is going to be the front, so mark it as FRONT. draw a line straight down until it touches the Abdom-
Also, write “CUT TWO ON FOLD” just so you don’t inal Line. This will be the Dart Line!
forget later. :)
On either side of the Dart Line where it intersects
Line X, measure ¼” to the left of the line, and ¼” to
the right of the line. Draw a line from each of those
¼” marks to the bottom of the Dart Line, so you get a
neat looking V shape.
Great! Now that we have the dart, you can see we

will be losing ½” when we fold and stitch the dart.
This means the skirt will be ½” too small! So let’s add
it back in.
At the end of Line X, extend it another ½”. Draw a

NEW line from the end of Line X to the end of Line Y.

Now we need to make some nice right-angles to get

our fit right. Fill out the following equations:
W / 3 = _______ Hem Line / 3 = _______
Now, stand back and take a look at your pattern. It’s

all boxy and jutty, and we are curvy and smooth! So,
let’s smooth out these lines.
Starting on the RIGHT side of Line W, measure in the The first step is to reduce the angles. Grab your ruler!
number of inches from the W / 3 equation above, See where the Abdominal Line ends at the right
and mark it (marked here in purple). Find your edge of the skirt? Start your line there! You can see
right-angle ruler, and match it up along the extend- my line in green, and you can see that it goes about
ed side of the skirt, matching the right-angle at the twice the distance past the hip and runs into the right
purple mark you just made. Draw in that right-angle side of the skirt. For instance, if it is 3” from the Ab-
shape (shown drawn in here with purple again). dominal Line to that Hip Line, then draw your line 6”
past the Hip Line to run into the right edge.
Using your long ruler, draw a line as shown from the

end of the Abdominal Line to about 6 inches below
the hip line. Then, sketch a nice curve in there, too!
Lastly, draw a line as shown along the Hem Line,

starting a few inches in from the fold to the tip of
your Right Angle there at the bottom. Then, sketch in
a curve!
Starting on the RIGHT side of the Hem Line, measure

in the number of inches from the Hem Line / 3
equation above, and mark it (marked here in purple).
Using your right angle ruler, match it up with the
side of the skirt and place the right-angle against the
mark you just made. Draw in that right-angle shape
as well (shown here in purple).

Let’s reduce the angle at the bottom right corner.

Starting where the right-angle line (purple) intersects
with the right edge, draw a line past the purple mark.
The purple mark should be about center of your line
(shown in green).
Last angle! Match your ruler up with the tippy top of

the skirt right-angle we drew in a previous step. Draw
a line that intersects with the waistline of the skirt.
Again, that purple mark is underneath the green line
at about the center of the green line.
Angles have been reduced, so last step is to put in

the curves! Between the Green and Purple lines,
sketch in a curve as shown here in orange!
WHEW! The front is DONE! Cut it out, and we are

going to trace it and make one more adjustment to
make the back!
NOTE: Be careful when you are cutting this out - you

want to cut all of the exterior lines EXCEPT where
you sketched in a curve. Then cut that curve! It helps
to grab a pack of Markers to make your pattern with
to differentiate the lines as I did here. Plus, markers
remind me of my childhood and are WAY fun. ;)

Back Darts
Take the Front pattern, and trace it onto a new piece

of paper.
Transfer over the Line X for the hip as shown. Also,

transfer over the Dart Line, but this time, extend it all
the way to Line X. HINT: To do this, you can place the
Back on top of the Front and trace them in.
Since we have more curves on the back side, we

need bigger darts! This one is already twice as long
as the ones on the front side. They need to be twice
as wide, too!
Along the waist, measure over ½” from either side of

the dart line. Again, draw in diagonal lines from each
½” mark down to the base of the Dart Line so you
get a neat V shape.
Lastly, we need to extend the edge of the skirt. Get

ready for a brain teaser: on the front, we had a dart
that was ½” wide, so we had to add ½” at the end of
the waistline. To make it match exactly with the front,
we should also make a ½” dart! But, we just made
a 1” dart, so now we have to add an extra ½” to the
edge. Clear as mud?
Extend the waist by ½” (shown here in red), then

sketch the curve down to the hip.
The back is done: Write BACK and CUT ON FOLD

like you did on the front, then you may cut it out!
Cut Skirt Front & Back
Placing your pattern on the fold and with the right

sides together, pin and cut out one Front.
Do the same with the Back.

Sew Darts
Copy the dart lines onto the WRONG side of your

skirt using a chalk pencil or chalk paper.
Once you have all 4 darts copied, we can sew them!

Fold them down the middle line with the right sides
together. Sew along the diagonal line on all 4.

HINT: For a nice and sturdy zipper, iron a 1” x 7”

piece of fusible interfacing on the WRONG side of
your fabric. Line up the edge of the interfacing with
the raw edge of your seam allowance. The seam you
sewed will be centered underneath the interfacing.
Do this on both sides!
Install Zipper
Place your Front and Back right sides together, and

pin down one side to hold the 2 together. Starting
at the waist, measure down ½” and make a mark.
This will be our seam allowance to either attach the
facing, or attach the waistband.
From your ½” mark, measure down the side 7” (this is the

length of your zippers teeth), and make another mark.
Starting at the top, sew with the longest stitch length Iron your seam open. Cut 7” strips of Basting Tape,
possible (this is called Basting since we are going and stick them on as shown here!
to rip it out later) and sew with a ½” seam allowance
down to your 7” mark. Then, change your stitch length
to 2.5, perform a backstitch, and sew to the end of
your skirt, doing another backstitch at the finish.

Pin the bottom of your zipper so it stays in place,

the slowly ROLL the zipper upward, making sure
the teeth line up PERFECTLY with the middle seam!
Press the zipper into the tape as you go up!
Now that your zipper is taped and pinned into place,

carefully seam rip 2 to 3 inches of your seam open so
you can move the zipper head around as you sew.
Put a few pins in the top of the zipper to hold it in

place.

Waistline: Facing
The easiest waistline to make is a simple faced waist-

line. The first step is to cut your facing. You will be
Open the zipper a little ways. Using your zipper cutting it on the fold just like the skirt, but you only
foot, edge stitch along the zipper until you reach the need to cut from the waistline to the hipline!
zipper head. Put your needle into the fabric, lift your
foot, and zip UP the zipper! Now you can lower your
foot and continue.
Move the zipper head at the end also!
Seam rip the rest of your zipper seam open, and the
zipper is DONE!

Once your facing front and facing back is cut, be sure Pin the facing to the FRONT of your skirt, right sides
to sew the darts in as you did on the skirt front and together! Starting as close to the zipper as you can
skirt back. get, stitch with a ½” seam allowance around the
entire waist, ending just before the zipper on the
other side.
Seam the facing together, making sure that you seam

the same side you did on the skirt so there is an
opening for your zipper.
Fold the extra raw edges out of the way, and stitch
them into place so they don’t interfere with the zip-
per operation

Clip the curve around the waist, but don’t clip Topstitch around the waistline. DONE!
the seam!
Waistline: Attached Waistband
Cut yourself a waistband! Use the following calculations:

Iron the facing away from the skirt, then down INSIDE
the skirt as shown. Once it is ironed nicely, you may Regular Waistband:
pin the waistline. B + 1” SA +
Measure in ½” on one long side, and make a mark.

Once your facing front and facing back is cut, be sure Pin the facing to the FRONT of your skirt, right sides
to sew the darts in as you did on the skirt front and together! Starting as close to the zipper as you can
skirt back. get, stitch with a ½” seam allowance around the entire
waist, ending just before the zipper on the other side.
Seam the facing together, making sure that you seam Fold the extra raw edges out of the way, and stitch
the same side you did on the skirt so there is an them into place so they don’t interfere with the zipper
opening for your zipper. operation.

Iron the waistband away from the skirt. Time to finish the edges! Fold the waistband in half
with right sides together. Instead of matching the
folded edges perfectly, bring the waistband fold
down just a bit FURTHER so it covers up the seam as
shown. Pin into place.
On the wrong side, stitch the waistband edges to-

gether just on the other side of the zipper. Do this on
the other side also UNLESS you are doing an over-
lapped waistband, then continue….
With the wrong side facing up, iron the long edge of
the waistband over ½” as shown.

Trim the corners of your waistband on BOTH sides

being careful not to clip the seams, then turn the both
Do the same thing on the other side with the longer right-side out and press.
overlap, but pin just the fold so the ½” ironed flaps
are NOT pinned down. See how the fold in the back
extends just a bit further than the one in the front?
Since the inside fold of your waistband is longer than

the outside fold, you can bring the fold down OVER
Now, unfold the ½” flaps so you can see the seam on the existing seam and pin it. See how you cannot see
the other side of the zipper. My thumbnail is pointing the original waistband seam in this photo? It is hidden
to it! You want to start sewing AS CLOSE to that seam underneath!
as possible, sew down the fold you can see in the
photo, then make a 90 degree turn to finish.
Your waistband overlap should now look like this! Once the waistband is pinned, turn the skirt over,
and stitch on the skirt as close to the waistband as
you can. Becuause you put the inside flap OVER this
seam, when you sew right next to it, it will catch the
fold on the back side!

Hem
Hooray, finished waistband! If your waistband meets Whew, finally to the easiest part, the hem! Along the
in the back, sew a little hook and eye to complete the hemline, iron the fabric over ½” as shown.
closure. If you did an overlapped waistband, then you
will need a buttonhole!
Then, iron it over a SECOND time ½”!
Using your manual and the buttonhole feature on

your machine, put a buttonhole on the edge of
your overlap.
On the inside of the skirt, topstitch along the fold of

the hem until you have gotten all the way around.
Stitch a button onto the skirt, and your waistband is

complete!
Done! Want to add detail? Use a double needle or

stitch a second hemline right next to the first for a
professional look.

Extra Elements Let’s install our exposed zipper. Our seam allowance
is ½”, so we want to add another ¼” to the zipper line
To add a little custom detail, we are going to add a to open it up and expose the zipper. In this example,
back seam, an exposed zipper, and a slit! I am measuring down 7.5” (the first ½” at the top is
Find the pattern for the Back of your skirt. Place it ½” for seam allowance for your chosen waistline), and
away from the fold this time - we need some seam I am also measuring IN ¾” (this is the ½” + ¼” we
allowance for our back center seam! discussed above).
Using your iron off pen or chalk pencil, draw a line

around this ruler: down the side, and a bit across the
bottom. This is going to be the window for our zipper!
Cut on the fold so you now have TWO skirt backs!
Be sure to copy and sew your darts in before you

continue.
Put your 2 backs right sides together, and pin along

the long edge where the fold used to be. At the bottom angle of the zipper window we
created, make a perfect 45 degree angle coming out
of the corner as shown!

Let’s mark the slit. I want a 5” slit at the bottom, so I

am going to measure up from the bottom 6” so I have
seam allowance for my hem.
Starting at the bottom of your zipper window and

ending at the mark where your slit begins, stitch with
a ½” seam.
Open your skirt so the seam you sewed is in the center,

wrong side up. Now that you have a slit, you can fold
the seam allowance open right on the line you drew
for the zipper window, and press it. Do the same on
both sides. Then, find the little triangles and fold them
DOWN, creating a nice little rectangular opening
where the zipper will go! Press those in place as well.
Now that your seam is in place, cut the little 45 de-

gree angle you sketched in earlier!
Press the rest of the seam open. Continue pressing it

open down at the slit as shown, even though it is not
seamed!

Press the rest of the seam open. Continue pressing it

open down at the slit as shown, even though it is not
seamed!
Now, flip the skirt over! Lay your zipper face up, and
add some basting tape to both sides RIGHT along the
edge of the zipper.
Roll one side up, sticking it to the basting tape as you go.
Do the same with the other side!
HINT: If your fabric is thin, add some interfacing on the

wrong side of the fabric where the zipper window will
go to firm things up.
Now that your seam is in place, cut the little 45 de-
gree angle you sketched in earlier!

Toptstitch around the zipper! See how easy it is to

move the zipper head when everything is exposed?
On the wrong side, topstitch around the slit to hold it

in place.
Now you have a skirt back with darts, an exposed
zipper, and a slit! Fancy! Assemble the rest of the
skirt according to the instructions above, choosing
whatever waistline you want.
Enjoy!

My Notes

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Sewing a Perfect Fitted Skirt

© craftsy | craftsy . com 1

Skirt Making Supply List

Pattern Paper Right Angle Ruler

© craftsy | craftsy . com 2

Skirt Math Calculation Worksheet

Take Your Measurements Write them all down here:

Skirt Drafting Equations

SA = Seam Allowance WB = Waistband Allowance E = Ease

Skirt With Waistband: Skirt With Facing:

Matched 1” Tall Waistband: Overlapped 1” Tall Waistband:

© craftsy | craftsy . com 3

Core Elements in Skirt Drafting

Most of the simple online tutorials have you draw a

Don’t throw your pattern out the window just yet!

© craftsy | craftsy . com 4

Now that you are armed with all the

© craftsy | craftsy . com 5

The Perfect Fitted Skirt

© craftsy | craftsy . com 6

• Right Angle Ruler

HIPS: To measure your hips, measure yourself

WAIST: Normally, this is the SMALLEST part of you.

WAIST to HIPS: Starting where you want the waist-

LENGTH: Starting from the HIP, let your measuring

Write them all down here:

Great! Now it’s time to do a few simple math equa-

Got all the math done? Great! Time to draw your

© craftsy | craftsy . com 7

Skirt With Waistband:

____ + ½” SA -2” WB = ______

____ + 1” Hem = ______

Skirt With Facing:

____ + 1” Hem = ______

© craftsy | craftsy . com 8

LET’S GET STARTED

The first thing I like to do is write all the measure-

We are going to be using the left side of the pattern

At measurement Y, draw another line below the first

Now, draw measurement Z down the left side of the

At the end of measurement X, draw a 3rd line all the

© craftsy | craftsy . com 9

Our bodies are ROUND, and currently, this pattern

Find the middle of measurement Y, and mark it.

Now is the time to decide what silhouette you would

Please note that depending on the length, a pencil

Connect the end of line W with line X. Then, from

Great! Now that we have the dart, you can see we

At the end of Line X, extend it another ½”. Draw a

© craftsy | craftsy . com 10

Now we need to make some nice right-angles to get

W / 3 = _______ Hem Line / 3 = _______

Now, stand back and take a look at your pattern. It’s

Using your long ruler, draw a line as shown from the

Lastly, draw a line as shown along the Hem Line,

Starting on the RIGHT side of the Hem Line, measure

© craftsy | craftsy . com 11

Let’s reduce the angle at the bottom right corner.

Last angle! Match your ruler up with the tippy top of

Angles have been reduced, so last step is to put in

WHEW! The front is DONE! Cut it out, and we are

NOTE: Be careful when you are cutting this out - you

© craftsy | craftsy . com 12

+ ½” SA -2” WB = __

+ 1” Hem = __

+ 1” Hem = __

W / 3 = _ Hem Line / 3 = _