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Quarter 1 – Module 1.

4 Draft
and Cut Pattern for Sleeping
Garment

What I Need to Know

Basic skills in clothing can become a big investment for you in the future. Attractive
job opportunities await skilled high school students like you in the field of work. But
before you can reach this stage, you need to know the fundamental knowledge
and preliminary skills in sewing which you will learn in this module.

This is designed for Grade 9 students to develop competencies in drafting and


cutting patterns for sleeping garment.

This module provides activities intended to


produce a well-fitted sleeping garment. It
discusses and explains the principles and
elements of design, taking body measurements,
drafting pattern, and cutting of final pattern.

At the end of this module, you will learn to:


1. Plan garment design for sleeping garment,
2. Take body measurements accurately,
3. Draft basic / block pattern; and
4. Cut final pattern.

Lesson Draft and Cut Patterns of Sleeping Garment

In dressmaking, pattern is very important because it gives you the initial outline of
the dress or any item you are trying to create. Aside from providing you the
outline, patterns also give you an idea how much fabric you should use and the
ideal kind of the fabric for the project.

A pattern is a plan or diagram illustrating the actual making of a project. It is used


as a guide especially by the beginners in sewing. A well-fitted garment lies on an
accurate body measurement. Drafting is a method used in making a pattern for
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garment. These guides help the sewer put together and sew the pieces of
garment easily.

What’s In

Complete the table. Write one answer for each number. Copy this table and
answer it in your notebook.

Tools, Materials and Equipment Kind


1. Sewing Tools
2. Measuring Tools
3. Drafting Tools
4. Sewing Materials
5. Sewing Equipment
Items of Body Measurement Classification
6. Bust Distance
7. Pajama Length
8. Hips
9. Armhole
10. Shoulder

What’s New

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3
5 8
4 10
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Identify the numbered parts of the body. Write your answer in your notebook.

Choices:
Hips Arm
Bust Waist 36
Figure Leg
Wrist Chest
Shoulder Neck

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What is It

3.1 PATTERN SYMBOLS

Sewing will be easier if you know how to read patterns. Different printed lines are
found on all pieces of the pattern. These lines show how to lay the pattern on the
cloth, where to cut, how to join seams and darts and where to put construction
details. These guides help the sewer put together and sew the pieces garment
easily.

1. Notches – show which seams are to be joined and where.


2. Seam Allowance – is the area or space between the cutting line and the
seam line.
3. Seam Line – is the line where a seam is stitched.
4. Cutting Line – is where the fabric should be cut.
5. Fold Line – is found along opening/placket, hems and other details to show
where the fabric is to be folded.
6. Darts – are made of two converging lines that meet forming a V-shaped point.
7. Fabric Grain – the grain is the direction that tells where they are going. Every
woven fabric is made of crosswise and lengthwise threads.
8. Crosswise Grain – is the threads that run perpendicular to the selvage of the
fabric or the cut edge of the fabric as it comes off the bolt.
9. Lengthwise Grain – refers to the threads in a fabric which run the length of
the fabric, parallel to the selvage of the fabric.
10. Center Fold – this indicates that the edge of the pattern must be placed on
the folded part of the fabric.
11. Buttonholes – Mark where to make buttonholes.
12. Buttons – this is where to sew the buttons.

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3.2 DRAFTING BASIC/BLOCK PATTERN

Patterns are carefully drafted to give accurate results. They serve as valuable guide in
laying, cutting and assembling the different parts during sewing.

Pattern drafting gives the dressmaker a blueprint of what a garment will look like. It also
serves as a guide for the dressmaker.

Three Kinds of Pattern:

1. Foundation Pattern – commonly known


as block, basic and sloper. It is a simple
pattern which contains the exact body
measurements and reflects no definite
style. It has five parts: back blouse, front
blouse, back skirt, front skirt, and sleeve.
Each part has a dart except the sleeve.
This pattern serves as a basis for preparing
the style pattern.

2. Style Pattern / Manipulated Pattern –


is the intervening step between the block
and the final pattern. It shows the style of
the garment to be constructed.

3. Final Pattern – this is provided with the


necessary allowance, symbols that will guide the
cutter on how to layout the pattern on the cloth.

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A. Tools and Materials Needed:
a. Tape Measure e. Pencil
b. Ruler f. Scissors
c. Hip Curve g. Eraser
d. French Curve h. Pattern Paper

B. Measurements Needed in Drafting Front Bodice Sloper

Body Measurements Actual Body Measurement Computed


(Sample Measurement) Measurement Needed Measurement
A. Vertical Measurement
Figure 15” 1 15”
Bust Height 8” 1 8”
B. Horizontal Measurement
Shoulder 13 ½” ½ 6 ¾”
Chest 12” ½ 6”
Bust Distance 6 ½” ½ 3 ¼”
C. Circumferential Measurement
Bust 32” ¼ 8”
Waist 25” ¼ 6 ¼”
Armhole 18” ½ 9”
PROCEDURE IN DRAFTING FRONT BODICE SLOPER

ILLUSTRATION OF FRONT BODICE SLOPER


Draw a perpendicular line and mark
the corner A
A – B is 3” downward
A – C is 5 ½” downward
A – D is ½ Armhole measurement
A – E is Figure measurement
Project line B, C, D and E to the
right
A – F is 2 ½” to the right Connect B
and F and shape the
neckline
A – G is ½ Shoulder measurement
G – H is 1 ½” downward
Connect H to I with a diagonal line
C–I is ½ Chest measurement
Connect H to I with a diagonal line
D – J is ¼ Bust measurement plus 1”
Shape the armhole

E – K is ¼ Waist measurement plus 1 ½” to the right


Connect J to K with a diagonal line
From line A measure the bust height downward to locate point L E – M
is ½ Bust Distance
M – N is ¾” to the left
M – O is ¾” to the right

Connect L to M, L to N and L to O using ruler


Fold the dart by connecting point N and, then connect E to K with a straight line
Cut the front bodice sloper along point B, C, D, E, F, H, I, J, K, O, M and N

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ILLUSTRATION OF BACK BODICE SLOPER

A – 1 is 1” downward
Shape the neckline
H – 2 is ½” upward
Connect F to 2 with a diagonal line I –
3 is ½” to the right
J–4 is ½” to the left
Shape the armhole K
–5 is ½” to the left
Connect 4 to 5 with a diagonal line L –
6 Move 1” upward
Project point 6 downward M
–7 is ½” to the left
M – 8 is ½” to the right
Fold the dart by connecting point 7
and 8 then connect E to 5 with a
straight line
Cut the back bodice sloper along
point 1, F, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, M and E

3.3 MANIPULATING THE BASIC FRONT AND BACK PATTERNS


1. Prepare ½ sheet of pattern paper
and fold it into 2. Start on the folded
edge.
2. From the folded edge of the patter
paper measure 5/8”- ¾” to the right.
Draw a vertical line for front opening
3. On top of the pattern paper,
measure 2” downward and draw
horizontal line
4. Mark the corner A as the starting
point
5. Layout the front bodice sloper on
point A in line with the vertical and
horizontal lines
6. Trace the front basic bodice
7. A – B is the shirt length
8. B – C measure ½” downward
9. Extend the shoulder line up to ½”-
¾”and mark point D
10. Lower the armhole about ½”and
mark it E
11. E – F ½” to the right

FRONT PART OF PAJAMA SHIRT


12. Shape the armhole by connecting D to F
13. B – G is hip measurement and divide it by 4 plus ¾”
14. Shape the hemline using hip curve
15. Connect E to G with a diagonal line

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FRONT PART OF PAJAMA SHIRT

Using the front pattern of pajama shirt, draft the Back


Part
1. A – 1 Measure 1”
Shape the back neckline
2. D – 2 Raise ½” on the front shoulder
3. In line with the chest line, move ½” from the
front armhole
4. Shape the back armhole
4. B –D is the hemline of the back part of pajama shirt
5. Trace the back pattern of pajama shirt on the
second page of the pattern paper using carbon
paper

SET – IN SLEEVE PATTERN


Prepare 1/8 sheet of pattern paper. Make a center fold
From the to edge, measure 1” downward and draw horizontal
line Mark the corner A

1. A – is the starting point


2. A – B is sleeve length
3. A – C is 4 ½” downward
Project point B and C to the right Get
the measurement of the front
armhole
4. A –D measure 1” to the right
5. A – E is front armhole minus ½”
(measure it diagonally)
Connect A to E with a diagonal line
6. Divide D to E into 4 equal parts and
mark it F, G and H
7. B – I is ½ lower arm girth

Connect point E to I with a diagonal line


8. F – J is 5/8” upward
9. G – K is 3/8” upward
10. H – L is ¼” downward
Get the center of G and H
Shape the cap portion of the sleeve starting from point D passing over
point J, K and the center of G and H
Reverse the french curve and continue shaping the cap portion of the sleeve

COLLAR PATTERN

Prepare 1/8 sheet pattern paper


Fold it lengthwise and crosswise to make two center fold (center fold on top and
on the left side)

Mark the corner A


A – B is the collar width (2 1/2” – 3”)
B – C is ½ neck circumference
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Project point B to the right
A – D same as B – C
Connect D to C with a straight line D –
E is ½ to the right

Get the center of B and C


and mark it point F C – G Raise 3/8”
Connect F to G with a
diagonal line Connect E to G
with a diagonal line

PATCH POCKET

Prepare a pattern paper


From the top edge of the pattern paper, measure
2” downward
Draw a perpendicular line and mark the corner A
– B is 6 ½”pocket Length
Project point B to the right
A – C is 5 ½” pocket width
B – D as same as A – C
Connect C to D with a straight line

DRAFTING PATTERN OF PAJAMA TROUSERS


Prepare one whole of pattern paper
Used lengthwise and draw a vertical line on the center
From the top edge of the pattern paper, measure 3” downward and draw horizontal
line
1. Mark the corner 1 as the starting point
2. 1 – 2 is Pajama length
3. 1 – 3 is Crotch length plus 1”
Project point 2 a 3 to the right and left side
4. 1 – 4 is ¼ Waist measurement plus 3”
5. 1 – 5 same as 1 – 4
6. 3 – 6 same as 1 – 4
Connect 4 – 6 with a straight line
7. 3 – 7 same as 1 – 5
Connect 5 – 7 with a straight line
8. 6 – 8 measure 2 ½” to the right
9. 7 – 9 measure 3” to the left
10. 2 – 10 is ½ bottom width
Connect 8 – 10 with a
diagonal line 11. 2 –
11 same as 2 – 10
Connect 9 – 11 with a diagonal line
12. 6 – 12 measure 2 ½” upward
Shape 12 – 8 (front crotch) using
French curve
13. 7 – 13 measure 2 ½” upward
Shape 13 – 9 (back crotch) using
French curve
14. 5 – 14 measure 1 ½” upward
Connect 14 – 4 with a diagonal

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3.4 MAKING THE FINAL PATTERN OF SLEEPING GARMENT

The success of pattern making will depend upon the accuracy with which the
measurements are taken and how carefully those measurements are transferred
to the paper pattern. Since the patterns are constructed from basic blocks, the
patterns will be consistent in fit - good or bad.

SEAM ALLOWANCES AND PATTERN SYMBOLS


NEEDED PAJAMA SHIRT

COLLAR

POCKET

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SLEEVE

TECHNIQUES IN CUTTING THE FINAL PATTERN


In cutting the final pattern, there are always standard procedures to be followed
to avoid mistakes in cutting the pattern which would affect the shape and style of
the sleeping garment.
Check for seam allowances, notice the grain lines and cut pattern pieces just
along the cutting lines. Use sharp shears and avoid cutting the inside part of the
cutting lines, otherwise the actual measurements will be affected.

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What’s More

Using the given body measurements below, draft the following patterns:
1. Basic front and back bodice
2. Pajama shirt pattern
3. Pajama trousers

Body Measurements Actual Body Measureme Computed


(Sample Measuremen nt Measureme
Measurement t Needed nt
)
B. Vertical Measurement

Figure 15” 1 15”


Bust Height 8” 1 8”
B. Horizontal Measurement

Shoulder 13 ½” ½ 3 ¾”
Chest 12” ½ 6”
Bust Distance 6 ½” ½ 4 ¼”
C. Circumferential Measurement

Bust 32” ¼ 8”
Waist 25” ¼ 6 ¼”
Armhole 18” ½ 9”

What I Have Learned

A. Draw the following pattern symbols in your notebook.


1. Center fold 6. Grain lines
2. Cutting line 7. Buttonholes
3. Buttons 8. Fold
4. Notch 9. Crosswise grain
5. Lengthwise grain 10. Seam line

B. Enumerate five measurements needed in drafting basic front bodice

C. What are the three types of pattern?

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What I Can Do

Copy the measurement chart below in your notebook, and do the following activities:
1. Write your own body measurements.
2. Compute the needed divisions of measurements.

3. Draft the following patterns:


a. Basic front and back bodice
b. Pajama shirt pattern
c. Pajama trousers

Body Measurements Actual Body Measurement Computed


(Sample Measurement) Measurement Needed Measurement
C. Vertical Measurement

Figure 1
Bust Height 1
Shirt Length 1
Sleeve Length 1
Pajama Length 1
Crotch 1
B. Horizontal Measurement

Shoulder ½
Chest ½
Bust Distance ½
C. Circumferential Measurement

Bust ¼
Waist ¼
Armhole ½
Hips ¼
Lower Arm Girth ½
Bottom Width ½

Assessment

Choose the correct answer to the questions asked. Write the letter in your notebook

1. It is a guide used by dressmakers as a guide when cutting an article


or garment.
A. Catalogue B. Pattern C. Symbol
2. What is ¼ of 36”?
A. 9” B. 8 ½” C. 9 ½”
3. What is the symbol of notches?

A. B. C.

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4. It is sometimes called the “foundation pattern”
A. Manipulated pattern
B. Block pattern
C. Final pattern
5. It is the line where a seam is stitched.
A. Seam line B. Cutting line C. Fold line
6. These guides help the sewer put together the garment easily.
A. Pattern B. Tools C. Pattern symbols
7. A kind of pattern provided with necessary allowances and symbols
A. Block pattern B. Style pattern C. Final pattern
8. How many division of measurement use in waist?
A. ¼ B. ½ C. 1
9. The neckline of front pattern is than the back neckline.
A. Closed B. Deeper C. Shallow

10. The success of pattern making will depend upon the accuracy of the
body measurement.
A. True B. False C. None of these

Additional Activities

A. Based on your drafted patterns, make a final pattern for the following:
1. Pajama shirt
2. Collar
3. Pocket
4. Pajama trousers

B. Cut the final patterns and label each.

POST TEST
MULTIPLE CHOICE: Choose the best answer from the options under each item.
Write the letter of your answer in your notebook.

1. Strong and luxurious fabric with natural luster; moderately resilient and
resists wrinkling.
A. Linen B. silk C. cotton. D. wool
2. A kind of drafting tool used for shaping the armhole, collars, hemlines and
necklines.
A. ruler B. tape measure C. hip curve D. french curve
3. The symbol for button.
A. C. -----------
B. D.
4. A loose fitting two-piece garments for women, men and children, may be
made from cotton, silk, satin and flannel.
A. chemise C. pajamas
B. negligee D. baby doll
5. It is the intervening step between the block and the final pattern.
A. block pattern C. final pattern
B. manipulated pattern D. none of these
6. It is a radiant energy loosely terms light that produces sensation in our eyes.
A. Color B. shape C. line. D texture
7. This serves as a guide in making any kind of project.
A. project plan C. body measurements
B. procedure D. pattern

8. A type of fabric that wrinkles, absorbs heat and gives comfort to wearer.
A. satin fabric C. cotton fabric
B. denim fabric D. velvet fabric

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9. The first step in drafting pattern front bodice sloper.


A. shape the neckline C. shape the armhole
B. draw a perpendicular line D. A – B is the figure
10. It is the arrangement of a design on a space resulting to sense of equilibrium.
A. proportion C. emphasis
B. balance D. harmony

11. The tool used to take body measurement accurately.


A. ruler C. L - square
B. tape measure D. meter stick

12. The symbol used for center fold.


A. C.
B. D.

13. Body measurements which are taken from left-to-right direction.


A. horizontal measurements C. vertical measurements
B. circumferential measurements D. diagonal measurements

14. Which part of the body is being measured if the measurement is taken from one
tip of the shoulder to another?
A. bust C. waistline
B. shoulder D. chest

15. It is a kind of clothing designed to be worn while sleeping.


A. working clothes C. house clothes
B.sportswear D. sleepw

References

DepEd (2015). Technology and Livelihood Education. Learning Material


Grade 9 Dressmaking.

DepEd (2015). Technology and Livelihood Education. Learning Material Grade


10 Dressmaking.

TESDA (2014). Dressmaking NC II. Learning Module

Carmelita Bildan Hilario.2008.Clothing Technology Made


Easy.Mandaluyong City:National Book Store

DepEd (1992). Technology and Home Economics III.Home Technology Clothing

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Answer Key

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