10

T.L.E.- Dressmaking
Quarter 2 – Module 1:
PREPARE MATERIALS BEFORE LAYING-OUT
AND CUTTING
 What I Need to Know

This module was designed and written with you in mind. It is here to help you master
how to prepare materials before laying out, cutting and sewing. The scope of this module
permits it to be used in many different learning situations. The language used recognizes
the diverse vocabulary level of students. The lessons are arranged to follow the standard
sequence of the course. But the order in which you read them can be changed to
correspond with the textbook you are now using.

The module is composed of one lesson, namely:

• Lesson 1.1 – Preparing the Fabric before Cutting
• Lesson 1.2 – Determining the Right and Wrong Side of the Fabric
• Lesson 1.3 – Four Kinds of Fold

After going through this module, you are expected to:

1. follow the steps in preparing the material before it is cut.;
2. determine the right and wrong side of the fabric;
3. identify the fabric folds used in pattern lay-out;
4. perform the fabric folds used in pattern lay-out.

What I Know

I. Multiple Choice. Choose the letter of the best answer. Write the chosen letter in your
activity notebook.

1. Which part of the cloth ravels easily?

a. raw edge c. bias
b. selvage d. centerfold
2. What do you call a fabric used to finish edges of the garment, usually curved edges
such as neckline and armhole?
a. facing c. bias
b. hem d. interfacing
3. Which of the following is folded at the center with the selvage together?
a. lengthwise center fold c. off-center lengthwise
b. crosswise center fold d. off-center crosswise
4. Which fabric is folded at the center with the raw edge together?
a. lengthwise center fold c. off-center lengthwise
b. crosswise center fold d. off-center crosswise
5. If the cloth is not smooth when it dries ____ is necessary.
a. soaking c. pressing
b. hanging d. stretching
6. Which of the following statement is NOT TRUE in determining the right and wrong
side of the fabric?
a. Loose thread ends can be found on the wrong side of the fabric.
b. Prints are clearer and brighter on the wrong side.

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c. Fabric are folded right side out.
d. none of the above
7. What side of the material has a finished appearance?
a. wrong side c. any side
b. right side d. both side
8. What part of the cloth you should place the construction marks?
a. wrong side c. any side
b. right side d. both side
9. Which part of the cloth does not ravel?
a. selvage c. bias
b. raw edge d. cutting edge
10. What part of the cloth DO NOT ravel easily?
a. selvage c. bias
b. raw edge d. cutting edge

Lesson
Ways of Preparing the Fabric
1.1 before Cutting

What’s In (Review)

Rearrange the letters in the box to form the word that best describes the statements
below. Write your answer in your activity notebook.

1. It includes pattern symbols and seam allowances.

A F N L I A P N T R E T

2. A flexible ruler used to measure body measurement or distance.

E T A P U M S E A E R

3. A guide in laying out and cutting the fabric.

T N P T E R A

4. it aids in shaping hips and in pattern making by providing an elongated curved edge
for smoothing and correcting pattern lines.
P H I U R C E V

5. A two-armed ruler used to make reduced scale patterns in pattern drafting and
making perpendicular line.
S - L Q E R A U

6. It is usually measuring about 12 or 18 inches. It is great for marking straight edges

and parallel lines, buttonholes, tucks, and pleats.
U R L R E

7. The intervening steps between block and final pattern. This pattern is produced when
the block pattern is manipulated to create simple to complicated designs.

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 E T S L Y T T N A R E P

8. It is based on individual measurements and usually employed in a dress shop or

home sewing.
D D A T E R F R T N A T P E

9. It is also called foundation pattern or sloper, is made using exact body measurements.
This serves as basis in making style pattern.
O K B L C N T T P R E A

10. It is based on standard measurements such as small, medium and large and is used
in garment factories.
M M C C A I E L O R R T N A T P E

What’s New

DEFINITION OF TECHNICAL TERMS

Aligning. It is a step in fabric straightening where the fabric is
pulled on opposite direction to align its grainline.

Creases. It is created when a fabric is folded during storage.

Fabric. It is a woven or non-woven material may be of

synthetic or natural fibers where a garment is made.

Right side of the fabric. The side that is meant to be seen. The
"printed" or "pretty" surface of the fabric.

Wrong side of the fabric. The side that’s not meant to be seen.
The back of the fabric

Ravel. To separate a knot, mass of threads.

Selvage. A part of fabric does not easily ravel.

Raw edges. A part of fabric does easily ravel.

Sanforized. (of cotton or other fabrics) preshrunk by a

controlled compressive process; meeting certain standards of
washing shrinkage.

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 What is It

After you have drafted the needed pattern for ladies’ skirt. It’s time to choose the
best fabric for straight skirt and do some preparation before cutting. Choose soft and
tightly woven fabric. For the preparation there are three ways, straightening the fabric,
shrinking and pressing. Whichever you use, fabric should be pressed once it has been
washed so that it will lay smoothly on the table to facilitate cutting. Then fold it wrong
side out and ready for the next step which is pinning and cutting.

FABRIC SELVAGE (OR SELVEDGE) AND RAW EDGE (CUTTING

EDGE)

1. Selvage (Selvedge). A selvage or selvedge is a "self-finished" edge of fabric, keeping

it from unraveling and fraying. The term "self-finished" means that the edge does not
require additional finishing work, such as hem or bias tape, to prevent fraying.
2. Raw edge (Cutting edge). The edge of the fabric that hasn’t had anything done to it
and it will probably have at least a few little strings coming off in it. A part of fabric does
easily ravel.

Raw edge/ Cut edge

WAYS OF PREPARING THE FABRIC BEFORE

CUTTING
Do the following tasks before laying out the pattern pieces and cutting the fabric:
1. Straightening the fabric. When you find that cloth is not square, you should
straighten it. Untreated cottons can usually be straightened by pulling along a
true bias from opposite sides of the material.

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 2. Shrinking the material. Excessive shrinking can ruin the fit of your garment.
Cottons have to be immersed on water, then partially dried and pressed. However,
you will never need to shrink “sanforized” fabrics or others which shrink not more
than 1%. Neither will you need to shrink wools manufactured by well-established
mills which in variably pre-shrink fabrics adequately.

Reasons to Preshrink
Fabric
a. The fabric will go back to
its original shape so that the
final fabric will not be off-
grain or out of shape.
b. The project will not change
size after it has been
constructed.

3. Pressing. To remove excessive wrinkles and creases, there are certain practices
you need to consider. The general rule is to press the wrong side of the material
in line with the threads. The exception is when you must press diagonally to
straighten the cloth. For this, you always have to press toward the short corner.

How to Press the Fabric

a. Lay the fabric down on the ironing board or on another flat surface with the wrong
side of the fabric facing up.
b. Once you have found the proper setting it is time to press the fabric.
c. Take the iron and press down for several seconds on the crease
or wrinkle.
d. Do this for the entirety of the fabric’s wrinkles and creases.

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Pressing vs Ironing

The difference between

pressing and ironing is entirely in
the motion. When you press, you
lift the iron up and down. When
you iron, you swipe the iron
across your fabric in a back and
forth or forward motion.

What I Can Do

ACTIVITY 1.1
Prepare your fabric to be used in sewing your straight skirt using the appropriate
method. (You can use curtain, blanket or any available material/ fabric in your house)

RUBRIC IN PREPARING THE FABRIC BEFORE CUTTING

Item Weighted
15 10 5 Score
(weight) Score

Not
Shrinkage Sufficiently Fabric not
sufficiently
(25%) Pre-shrunk pre-shrunk
pre-shrunk
Fabric
stretched Grainline Fabric not
Grain of
and not stretched to
fabric
grainline straightened straighten
(25%)
straightened very well the grainline
very well
Edge of Even edge, Quite even, Uneven
fabric carefully not all edges, not
(25%) straightened edges straightened

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 straightened
Pressing Not pressed
Well pressed Not pressed
(25%) very well

TOTAL

LEGEND
Weighted Score = Score x Item (Weight)

Score Percentage = Total Weighted Score x 50 + 50

Perfect Score (15)
Example:
15 x 10% = 1.5
15 x 60% = 9
15 x 20% = 3
15 x 10% = 1.5
Total Weighted Score 15

Score Percentage = 15 x 50 + 50 = 100%

15

Assessment 1.1

Matching Type. Match column A with the correct answer on column B, write only the
letter of answer in your activity notebook.

COLUMN A COLUMN B
1. When you iron, you swipe the iron across a. raw edge
your fabric in a back and forth or forward motion. b. selvage
2. Fabrics have to be immersed on water. c. ironing
3. When you find that cloth is d. pressing
not square, you should _______. e. shrinking
4. When you _______, you lift the iron up and down. f. straightening
5. A "self-finished" edge of fabric, keeping it
from unraveling and fraying.

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 Lesson
Determining the Right and
1.2 Wrong Side of the Fabric

DETERMING THE RIGHT AND WRONG SIDES OF

FABRIC
Before you lay out your pattern on the fabric, you have to determine the right
side and wrong side of the fabric. These are the tips in determining the right and
wrong sides of the fabric:

1. Prints are clearer and brighter on the right

side.

2. Selvage is smoother on the right side.

3. Loose thread ends can be found

at the wrong side.

4. Fabrics are folded right side out.

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 What I Can Do

ACTIVITY 1.2
Identify the right and wrong sides of plain colored and printed swatches given .

Note: Copy the table below on a short coupon bond and paste or attach your fabric on it.
(Fabric size 2”x2”)

SWATCHES
Fabric
RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE

1. Printed Fabric

2. Plain Fabric

Assessment 1.2

True or False. Read the statement below, write T if the statement is true and F if the
statement is false. Write your answer in your activity notebook.
1. To determine the right side of the fabric, fabrics are folded right side out.
2. Loose thread ends can be found at the wrong side.
3. Selvage is smoother on the wrong side.
4. Prints are clearer and brighter on the wrong side.
5. After you lay out your pattern on the fabric, you have to determine the right side and
wrong side of the fabric.

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 Lesson

1.3 Four Kinds of Fold

FOUR KINDS OF FOLDS

The fabric can be folded in several ways. This makes it accommodate a particular
pattern in the most economical way. In lay-outing, the right side of the fabric should be
folded inside as a general rule.

Fabric fold in pattern piece layout directions has a relationship to the grain of fabric.
Pattern layout along a fold line allows use of a half-size pattern piece.

1. Lengthwise centerfold. The fabric is folded with selvages together.

2. Crosswise centerfold. The fabric is folded with raw edges together.

3. Off-center lengthwise fold. The fabric is folded with selvages meeting at the
center.

4. Off-center crosswise fold. The fabric is folded with raw edges meeting at the
center.

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 What I Can Do

ACTIVITY 1.3
Perform the following fabric folds using any available paper with a size of 5 ½” x 8 ½”
and paste it on a short coupon bond.
1. Lengthwise centerfold 3. Off center lengthwise fold
2. Crosswise centerfold 4. Off center crosswise fold

Assessment 1.3

Supply the missing word. Choose your answer inside the box and write your answer in
your activity notebook.

Lengthwise centerfold Off center lengthwise fold

Crosswise centerfold Off center crosswise fold

Fabric Fold Selvages together

Meeting at the center.

s

1. Off-center crosswise centerfold. The fabric is folded with raw edges ___________.
2. ___________ the fabric is folded with raw edges together.
3. Lengthwise centerfold. The fabric is folded with ___________.
4. ___________ the fabric is folded with selvages meeting at the center.
5. ___________ in pattern piece layout directions has a relationship to the grain of
fabric.

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